# Asian hub strip-down.



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Brandon from BikeHubStore (who was asking us to name his hubs recently) sent me some hubs to knock apart and play with. It's snowing today so I did just that. I made an axle box to make the job easier and less risky for hub damage and reduced the hubs to a pile of parts. A rubber mallet is a must for this job.

That red hub weighs just 65 grams and the black one 78 grams. The lighter red hub has 4 sets of sealed bearings. In the future I'll do a strip down and rebuild photo essay for him but in the meantime here are some pics and if anyone has any questions just ask or PM me. I've got weights on all the bits.

I don't know which company made the hubs but I think they're indicative of the quality of most Asian hubs - excellent..

I have a build planned for these hubs using Sapim Lazer or DT Rev spokes (both with 0.5mm centers). I just dunno what rims to use yet.


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## FTR (Sep 20, 2006)

They definitely look good.
I am looking for an inexpensive hub option for a set of race day wheels combined with some carbon rims.


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## s.mousseau (Oct 15, 2009)

look nice, whats the weight on the rear?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

These are bitex hubs. 

The 2 bearing front hubs (the larger looking bearings) use very tiny 699 series bearings. The rear hubs are excellent, but Im wary of the front hubs durability long term. At least the bearings are cheap and easy to replace! Definitely not a cx front hub. 699 series bearings have a load rating of 200-250lbs per bearing, I think it would be well suited to lighter riders.

For the price, its worth it just for the rear alone though.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

s.mousseau said:


> look nice, whats the weight on the rear?


It's 211 grams.


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## boneman (Nov 26, 2001)

*Bearing Puller*

What type/brand of tool are you using to pull the bearings? TIA


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

boneman said:


> What type/brand of tool are you using to pull the bearings? TIA


Pull them? I tap them out. You have to tap on them to get them moving and away from the floating axle that separates them. So when they move by tapping, might as well carry on and tap them all the way out.


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## Guymk (Mar 27, 2009)

Mike I was actually on your website earlier today and thinking about using these hubs (24/28 drilling) and building a set of wheels with a 27mm kinlin rim and dt double butted spokes. I know you say not to go with low spoke counts for a first wheel set but I really have no need for a 2000g+ training wheel set as I am only 130 lbs. 
I am being too advantageous or would it be feasible for me to build if i went REALLY slow and took my time? I am fairly mechanically inclined and for me it seems like it would be a fun challenge.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Guymk said:


> Mike I was actually on your website earlier today and thinking about using these hubs (24/28 drilling) and building a set of wheels with a 27mm kinlin rim and dt double butted spokes. I know you say not to go with low spoke counts for a first wheel set but I really have no need for a 2000g+ training wheel set as I am only 130 lbs.
> I am being too advantageous or would it be feasible for me to build if i went REALLY slow and took my time? I am fairly mechanically inclined and for me it seems like it would be a fun challenge.


It's just like my site says - the job gets more picky the further you get from everyday bread & butter wheels. Any damn fool can tension & true 36h wheels - heck I proved that for decades as everyone rode 36h wheels until about the '80s. Just be aware of the difficulties of less spokes, thinner spokes and eyeletless rims - relative to wheels that don't have those things. Go for it. What's the worst that can happen? You have to re-build them again? It's good practice.


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## jtimmer1 (Mar 28, 2009)

I'm thinking of building up a set of these with some Kinlin XR-200s and CX Rays. This would be my first complete build, but I have dabbled before. Thoughts?


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## dirkfh (Jun 13, 2007)

*Perfect!*

Got a climbing wheelset last week with these hubs and was wondering how to take them apart. You have eliminated my learning curve, thank you.
Wheels, Mercury s-series, 1326g, 24,28.

DFH


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Not to be too spammy, but I have 5 sets of these left (not going to order more.. its become a price war.) that Id like to get rid of!


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

jtimmer1 said:


> I'm thinking of building up a set of these with some Kinlin XR-200s and CX Rays. This would be my first complete build, but I have dabbled before. Thoughts?


Thoughts? Those rims are very light and no eyelets and I'll assume low spoke (sub-32). CX-Rays need holding to prevent twist and that's a two-edged sword - no twist gets imparted (that needs to be accounted for and removed in normal spokes) but you then have to have a tool in each hand all the time; one of them to prevent the twist. If this was your tenth or thousandth wheelset, it would go better than this set being your first.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

dirkfh said:


> Got a climbing wheelset last week with these hubs and was wondering how to take them apart. You have eliminated my learning curve, thank you.
> Wheels, Mercury s-series, 1326g, 24,28.


Don't even think of taking them apart unless you have a rubber mallet and a wooden hub support like I built.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

The first set of wheels I built used 20/24 hubs, Kinlin 270s, CXrays with brass nipples, and 2X all around. I had a DT Swiss tool to hold the Xrays already as all the handbuilt wheels I had purchased previously had CXrays, so I was aware of the need to have both tools on the spoke at once. That build went together very easily for me, so I wouldn't shy away from using the CXrays for a first build, just have the proper tools and be sure to keep the spokes completely flat at the crosses. 

Mike: I just did some carbon tubulars on the same Bitec hubs you took apart (also purchased from Brandon), but used Sapim Laser and WS DB 14 spokes to save some money, alloy nipples in the front and rear NDS, Brass nipples DS, again 2X all around. I drove myself crazy on the front wheel. Could have been the rims, etc., but I just couldn't get it trued and kept rounding off the nipples. I finally rebuilt the front with all brass nipples and it went together fine. Rear was a piece of cake with the heavier spokes and brass nipples where the tension was the highest. So, at least for me, working with round spokes can sometimes present challenges that you may not have working with something like a CXRay or an Aerolite.

OP: I like kinlin rims. I have lots of wheels built with them, but haven't tackled the 200s yet because of their light weight and fact that I weigh between 175-180 and would need a lot of spokes. The 270 was easy to work with as a "first build" and you might find them a little more forgiving than the 200s.


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## north4827 (Mar 19, 2010)

I just built a wheel set with these hubs. I used Kinlin XR-270 rims and 20/24h Bitex hubs. Laced with DT Revolution spokes, brass nipples on the drive side 2X, and 2X with alloy non-drive. The front 20h hub I radially laced with alloy nipples. The weight is 1420g with 40g worth of rim strips. I built them for my wife, but I've been riding them to 'try out'. They are great. Super comfy, very responsive, and accelerate quickly. I am 6' tall and weigh 180lbs, so I can say this combo is good for at least my weight, if not more. I love DT Revolution spokes. I use a tensiometer, and linseed oil for lubing the threads. The Drive-side tension is about 125 kgf, and the front radial I stopped at 90kgf. 

My next set of wheels for these hubs is a 24/28h setup with X2/X2 rear, X1/X1 front with again DT-Revolution spokes, alloy nipples, but this time with a KinLin TB-25 tubular rims for cyclocross racing. They should be bombproof, and I'm looking forward to trying out Dugasts on these wheels fall 2011. 
Big thanks to Brandon at BikeHubStore.com for providing these hubs!


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## jparr (Jul 27, 2008)

north4827 said:


> I just built a wheel set with these hubs. I used Kinlin XR-270 rims and 20/24h Bitex hubs. Laced with DT Revolution spokes, brass nipples on the drive side 2X, and 2X with alloy non-drive. The front 20h hub I radially laced with alloy nipples. The weight is 1420g with 40g worth of rim strips. I built them for my wife, but I've been riding them to 'try out'. They are great. Super comfy, very responsive, and accelerate quickly. I am 6' tall and weigh 180lbs, so I can say this combo is good for at least my weight, if not more. I love DT Revolution spokes. I use a tensiometer, and linseed oil for lubing the threads. The Drive-side tension is about 125 kpf, and the front radial I stopped at 90kpf.
> 
> My next set of wheels for these hubs is a 24/28h setup with X2/X2 rear, X1/X1 front with again DT-Revolution spokes, alloy nipples, but this time with a KinLin TB-25 tubular rims for cyclocross racing. They should be bombproof, and I'm looking forward to trying out Dugasts on these wheels fall 2011.
> Big thanks to Brandon at BikeHubStore.com for providing these hubs!


Are the hubs approved for radial use?


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## north4827 (Mar 19, 2010)

According to Brandon, yes, but probably not warranted if failure occurs. Though, I'd not do that with over 20h, as the flange gets pretty wimpy after that. For my 24h front, I'm going either x1 or x2. Not maximizing the tension on the front with radial helps for sure. I've had the wheels out on pretty rough roads and over a trestle bridge on the wood slats, pounding hard and the wheel is straight and true, and no sign of flange failure.


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## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

Can you post the center to flange spacing for the hubs?

Thanks,
Eric


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## north4827 (Mar 19, 2010)

Front: PCD = 29.7, 
Flange to center: 33.35mm

Rear: PCD DS = 47.1, NDS = 38.4
Flange to Center: DS = 16.75, NDS = 37.75
spoke hole dia = 2.2mm

These measurements worked perfectly for my build using the DT Swiss spoke calc.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

delete.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Heres the bitex next to dt's not-approved-for-radial 240s.. maybe hard to tell, but the bitex has less meat between the hole and end of flange, marginally. 

Its also about a 1mm thinner. Im not bashing the hubs, I think they're good hubs, but something has to give for the weight! Imo, thats radial lacing.


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## SBH1973 (Nov 21, 2002)

I didn't want to participate in this thread, as it's about a product I'm selling. MikeT, who's been offering me his informed feedback about products I'm carrying, started it on his own volition. (although honestly, now that I'm paying for a banner ad here, I do feel a little more comfortable about it!).

But I do want to make one thing clear: According to the _manufacturer_, these hubs can be radially laced. I have this direct from the manufacturer. (Edit, March 23: I had decided not to warranty radially laced hubs, but have changed this policy. I will now cover properly built, radially-laced wheels).

That's all. Carry on.


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## orange_bikes (Jun 6, 2007)

*Triplet Rear?*



north4827 said:


> Rear: PCD DS = 47.1, NDS = 38.4
> Flange to Center: DS = 16.75, NDS = 37.75
> spoke hole dia = 2.2mm


Any comments from the Pros about these specs with respect to Triplet Lacing? Looks like BHS has a triplet specific (16DS/8NDS) hub available...

This would be going into a Reynolds SDV66 Clincher rim. 175lbs, race only, crit wheel.

Thanks gentlemen!!!


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## padelsbach (Jan 7, 2009)

I'm not a professional wheelbuilder, but I have built and ridden a triplet Novatec/Kinlin rear wheel. The hub was 32h and the rim was a 24h XR300. So, 3 cross pulling spoke heads out on the drive side, 1 cross all heads in on the non drive side. It held up fine on the bumpy roads around Norcal, but I only weigh 140. 

I really recommend the Novatec hubs. They're light, durable and easy to get. Two of my friends nearby also have had good luck with them with over a year of riding. 

I'm not a huge fan of Kinlin rims because of their width, esp the XR300's. I like No Tubes Alpha340s for lighter weight riders and even the Velocity A23's are nice as well. Maybe it's just my riding style, but I'm more concerned with width and ride quality, than depth and aero.


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## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

SBH1973 said:


> I didn't want to participate in this thread, as it's about a product I'm selling. MikeT, who's been offering me his informed feedback about products I'm carrying, started it on his own volition. (although honestly, now that I'm paying for a banner ad here, I do feel a little more comfortable about it!).
> 
> But I do want to make one thing clear: According to the _manufacturer_, these hubs can be radially laced. I have this direct from the manufacturer. I, however, do not recommend it and won't cover it. This is what I've been telling customers who are interested in a radial lacing. I've now added a statement about this in two places on the main page of my website.
> 
> That's all. Carry on.


Interesting. Can you inquire as to whether they can push the drive side flange out more? My biggest complaint with most hubs is that the drive side flange isn't as far from center as it could be. Moving it out is free and improves the overall quality of the wheel build. I've seen Campagnolo compatible rear hubs as far as 18.1mm and there isn't any interference with the rear mech.

Thanks,
Eric


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## SBH1973 (Nov 21, 2002)

I will do that. Thanks for the suggestion.



ergott said:


> Interesting. Can you inquire as to whether they can push the drive side flange out more? My biggest complaint with most hubs is that the drive side flange isn't as far from center as it could be. Moving it out is free and improves the overall quality of the wheel build. I've seen Campagnolo compatible rear hubs as far as 18.1mm and there isn't any interference with the rear mech.
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


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## mtbboy41 (Jun 20, 2010)

Sorry about resurrecting this thread but I will need to get the bearings out of a rear hub. The pictures are great but would you mind listing the steps to actually get them out. 
Thanks very much


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