# Getting back in the saddle...where to purchase?



## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Short bio on me. Middle aged now :cryin: and looking to start riding for my health and for fun. Last new bike I purchased was probably 10 years ago ( mountain bike) and I think I rode it 4 of 5 times before my kids broke it and if was left outside to rot. Now that I have time with the kids being self sufficient I'd like to buy a road bike and actually use the darn thing. My budget is roughly $500-$600. I know little to nothing about the technical details of bikes. I recognize the more popular brands like Trek and Giant and Specialized etc etc and component brands like Shimano or Campagnolo. The only "nice" bike I ever owned was a Benotto with Campy components about 25 yrs ago. 

Do I need to buy new or can I get more bang for my buck buying used? I live in the Falls (Canadian side) and tbh the selection at bike shops here is rather poor. Now I do live 90 min from Toronto which I'm sure offers a much broader selection. I'm much closer to the US but Buffalo NY wouldn't seem like a cycling Mecca to me so I'm not sure about the choices available there. 

A friend recommended I look at some Jamis models at my local sport chek store. They've got some new 2012 models selling at a discount. Used I've found a Trek Equinox 7 for $750 and a Planet X road bike for $600. 

I'll admit now I've never test ridden a bike before and frankly didn't know they allowed such a thing. Would a sporting goods store like my local sport chek even allow such an exercise? How far do you go? What exactly should I be looking for on a test ride?

I'll shut up now, I'm getting long winded. Any tips gladly accepted.

mike


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

With only about 5-600 dollars to spend your options are more than limited. Our shop does not offer any road bikes at all for that price. So that would leave you buying a low end used bike hopefully with very little use on it. Or just a lesser quality brand.

Seeing how you don't know anything at all, I feel buying used is out of the question. You won't be able to fix the problems and make the adjustments needed. In fact, I strongly suggest you go to a local bike shop that offers free service and tune-ups for a year with your purchase, I think you'll need the help.

Also the local bike shop will do something incredibly important that no other store will, they will sell you a bike that fits you. They should also help you with a free basic bike fitting with your purchase. You can get hurt pretty bad from a bad fitting bike. Knee, back, hip pain, numbness, etc. Local bike shops will let you test ride anything, that also helps. 

Having such a limited budget means in a way you kind of have to take the best thing available. Just be careful not to spend all your time and money driving around. Do your calling and research from home and only make one trip with the car. People on a budget often don't calculate gas and time spent driving around looking for a bargin.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I don't think your budget is so limiting. There are new entry level bikes available in the low $700 range, and with a (fairly common) 10% discount will get you about where you want to be. There are also closeouts available, so you do have options.

But taking a step back, you first have to decide on the _type_ of riding you want to do now and (possibly) in the future. Where you ride (roads, MUT's, fire trails, etc.) dictates the _type_ of bike you'd want - as does the duration of rides. 

If you just was a bike that'll get you some exercise and increase fitness, you may want to look at hybrids. They're generally cheaper than drop bar bikes, and somewhat easier to fit. The downside is they're not the best choices for longer rides (if you were to get into that), so, somewhat limiting. 

I don't know that it's necessary to drive 90 miles to check out another shop, but it may be worth it to branch out to other areas closer by - Buffalo, for instance. Make calls to shops beforehand asking if there are any good used bikes or closeouts available. It'll save you in both time and gas. 

Lastly, fit IS important to get right, so take steps along the way to ensure you get some assistance with that. Also, as stated above, get some help with getting the type of bike that suites your intended uses. That Trek is a special use bike (tri/ TT's), so not a good choice.

I can't comment on the Planet-X bike without knowing more, but (to the uninitiated) there are pitfalls to buying used. I'm sure we'll get more into that as this thread evolves.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Thanks for the tips. I look at a bike purchase similar to a car purchase. Yes buying new you get the new car smell and someone strokes your ego and tells you what a great choice you made and then you drive off the lot and 20% has depreciated from your purchase. I'm hoping to find the bike someone bought intending to take up cycling but for whatever reason has thrown in the towel. I'm assuming if the original owner is similarly built like me the bike will fit me. Or with all the money I saved buying used I'll spend a few bucks at the LBS and have them adjust it for me. Not to sound ungrateful but I've bought used cars that lasted a decade for less then $1000 , we're talking about a bicycle here. I realize people likely to frequent this forum are very avid about cycling and maybe I will be one day too but for now I need a nice decent bike I won't be ashamed to be seen on. My real passion is tube audio but I don't tell people they need $5000 300B vintage tubes or why bother at all.


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

Welcome!! I can speak a little about buying a bike from the Buffalo area, as I'm originally from Dunkirk, NY, but have relatives from Buffalo, Orchard Park, Depew, and the surrounding area.

There's a huge bike store, in fact, three of his stores, called Bert's Bikes. It's a mega store that sells all kind of bikes, from beginner bikes, to more advanced bikes. They carry a huge inventory of bikes from budget, to plush. They also sell used as well as new. 

They have a huge inventory of bike accessories too. I was totally impressed when I stopped in to shop during one of my visits up that way last fall. 

It might be worth the drive to shop there.

Bert's Bikes and Fitness | Trek | Cannondale | Gary Fisher | Schwinn | GT | Electra

By the way, Niagara Falls, Canada is one of my absolute favorite places to visit. My wife and I went there on our Honeymoon 31 1/2 years ago.


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## ngl (Jan 22, 2002)

All great advice.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

So here's what I think happens at the bottom of the market - 
Sub-$100 bikes tend to be old mass market bikes. Often, they're not even in rideable condition.

I've had a few $100-$150 bikes. For me, this was always something pre-1990. Depending on what "the job" is, they may do it. But standards have changed over time so while everything to maintain them period is still in production, some times things can be a little hard to find and changing anything has often opened up a can of worms I ended up wishing I hadn't touched. I swore off these bikes after I broke my last one.

At about $300, you should be able to get a mid-'90s road bike with modern hub spacing, cogs on the cassette, 700C wheels, and integrated shifters. Head tubes have changed a bit, but there are adapters to address that if it becomes a problem for you. In other words, this is something with excellent availability of maintenance parts. I think this is when bang-for-the-buck gets good.

For $600-$700, you're looking at a range of bikes from a middle-end bike a couple years old to an older high-end bike.

If you can keep a $1000 car rolling, you can figure out a bike. Everything is right on the outside. In looking at used bikes, I mostly just look for drivetrain damage. If the bike test rides okay and the chain isn't "stretched" (Google chain wear) it can't be that bad. Bearings wear out too, but the magnitude of the problem depends a lot on how important you think it is.

Fit's important. I like secondhand bike shops because they still give one the opportunity to ride a few bikes back-to-back. Otherwise, if you can afford to care about audio, if cycling clicks for you, you can start with a new $1500+ bike, or however many used bikes you take figuring it out on your own.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Thanks for the tips. I look at a bike purchase similar to a car purchase. Yes buying new you get the new car smell and someone strokes your ego and tells you what a great choice you made and then you drive off the lot and 20% has depreciated from your purchase. I'm hoping to find the bike someone bought intending to take up cycling but for whatever reason has thrown in the towel. I'm assuming if the original owner is similarly built like me the bike will fit me. Or with all the money I saved buying used I'll spend a few bucks at the LBS and have them adjust it for me. Not to sound ungrateful but I've bought used cars that lasted a decade for less then $1000 , we're talking about a bicycle here. I realize people likely to frequent this forum are very avid about cycling and maybe I will be one day too but for now I need a nice decent bike I won't be ashamed to be seen on. My real passion is tube audio but I don't tell people they need $5000 300B vintage tubes or why bother at all.


A couple of thoughts...

Your post reads like someone who's already formed opinions on a bike purchase and how it should go, so why come to the forum and ask for thoughts/ advice? 

Second, I can poke holes in some of your logic. First off, a bike isn't a car. We _ride_ bikes, and no matter the level of interest, they do have to fit. If they don't, they're apt to be uncomfortable and we won't ride them. 

Which leads me to your assumption that a person sized as you are is selling a bike sized for you. Not necessarily so. Maybe they're selling the bike because it doesn't fit them well, but they didn't take the necessary steps to ensure it did. And BTW, if a bike isn't sized correctly for the rider, bringing it to a LBS for adjustments isn't apt to go well. There's only so much a fitter can do in that situation. 

Lastly, as far as I can tell, no one is pushing you to spend more, but they _are_ offering you sound advice on your best options to make a smart purchase, so (respectfully) no need for a defensive posture.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

PJ352 said:


> A couple of thoughts...
> 
> Your post reads like someone who's already formed opinions on a bike purchase and how it should go, so why come to the forum and ask for thoughts/ advice?
> 
> ...


Agreed. I didn't intend to sound defensive but it reads that way. I don't want to end up being the guy who buys the "wrong" bike and ends up either staring at an expensive paperweight or taking a big hit on resale because I didn't do my due diligence before purchasing. 

I found a Trek 2.1 (2010) with all Shimano 105 components etc and one year of warranty still left. It's been well maintained by the lbs and asking price is $475. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and the Trek is 54 cm frame. Too small for me? Or that can only be determined in person?
Trek 2.1 | road | St. Catharines | Kijiji
mike


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## Guod (Jun 9, 2011)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Agreed. I didn't intend to sound defensive but it reads that way. I don't want to end up being the guy who buys the "wrong" bike and ends up either staring at an expensive paperweight or taking a big hit on resale because I didn't do my due diligence before purchasing.
> 
> I found a Trek 2.1 (2010) with all Shimano 105 components etc and one year of warranty still left. It's been well maintained by the lbs and asking price is $475. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and the Trek is 54 cm frame. Too small for me? Or that can only be determined in person?
> Trek 2.1 | road | St. Catharines | Kijiji
> mike


At 6'2" a 54cm is probably way too small. A 56cm would be small. Though, if you ever find yourself in between sizes, size down.

That said, I'm 5'10" with a 33.5" inseam and I'm on a 54cm. I could ride a 56cm, but the 54 allows me to get lower and the frame feels a bit stiffer (probably my imagination).

If I were you, look for 58cm or so. Though the sizing is nominal, so one manufacturers 58cm might fit really large and another's might be too small. Check the geometry to try and figure out what is what on each bike.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Seems too small, yes. I would think you'd have a very aggressive position on that bike, sort of like the pros do. I'm 5'8" and ride bikes that are around 52cm usually. 

It's very important to buy the right size bike or it will indeed end up as a paper weight. I have a friend with a $ frame sitting in their garage right now. They bought it online with the recommendation of a 54cm. This person is a girl who is about 5'6" or so... Maybe she entered in a number wrong on their online fit calculator? She came into our shop and we ordered her a bike the right size for her, a 46.5cm.

Local bike shops might not be as profitable as their owners want and you may find some of the owners or employees wanting to get you into a bike not your size to make a sale, this is something to look out for as well. It shouldn't happen but it does, there's one shop in town here known for it. 

Your bike has to fit well or it's just not going to work for you. Unlike a car you don't just sit there so the geometry and fit is fairly crucial. It's a game of millimeters as well and your position is something you might find being constantly adjusted even on the right size bike if you don't get a fit done.

Basically I advise you to educate yourself on fitment. Use several online calculators to get a feeling for what size bike you need and how it's going to be set up for you.

Pedal Force super-light carbon bicycle

Competitive cyclist has one, wrench science has one. They're good to utilize.
Be as educated as you can be so you only spend your money once. Try not to trust the salesperson, try to know yourself for the most part what you need. Buying used is fine as long as you know how to inspect the bike properly, again I wouldn't trust a salesman. The more you know the better chance you have of getting it right the first time. It's worth taking the time now to research as much as possible.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Agreed. I didn't intend to sound defensive but it reads that way. I don't want to end up being the guy who buys the "wrong" bike and ends up either staring at an expensive paperweight or taking a big hit on resale because I didn't do my due diligence before purchasing.


Points taken...



ProAc_Fan said:


> I found a Trek 2.1 (2010) with all Shimano 105 components etc and one year of warranty still left. It's been well maintained by the lbs and asking price is $475. I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and the Trek is 54 cm frame. Too small for me? Or that can only be determined in person?
> Trek 2.1 | road | St. Catharines | Kijiji
> mike


I would call your proportions with in a "normal" range, so that bikes gonna be too small for you. 

BTW, warranties aren't transferable. Something to be aware of when buying used.

Re: the above recommendation of using online fit calculators, I disagree. The _best_ they do is get a rider in a _range_ of sizes, which any competent fitter can do in a matter of minutes seeing you on a bike. 

More commonly, the calculators serve to confuse novices. And if you notice, the sources are all online sellers. Not the best way to buy a first bike. I'd steer clear, opting to work one on one with a fitter.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

I agree with pretty much everything that has been said. You really should be able to get a new Giant (Defy), Speciaized (Allez or Secteur), Fuji (more than one) in your price range, especially if you can catch a 2013 or 2014 on closeout since we are getting pretty close to some of the 2015 bikes being released. 2-3 years ago a good friend bought a new Giant Defy 5 for like $630 or something on a holiday sale or something like that. FWIW, he's still riding that back after a few component changes. Wiggle.com also often has some more affordable bikes and will sometimes ship to the U.S. for free (but then fit is more of an issue than it would be if you go to a local shop).


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Visit to local sport chek ( not a dedicated bike shop) found a 2012 jamis Ventura comp road bike marked down to $599 or roughly $700 with taxes. Aluminum frame, carbon fork, Shimano tegra components, etc etc. Didn't get to test ride it because it's pouring rain but I liked the look, feel and the price. Shop offers 1 yr free tune ups and adjustments, free labour on repairs or upgrades. 

Mike


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Visit to local sport chek ( not a dedicated bike shop) found a 2012 jamis Ventura comp road bike marked down to $599 or roughly $700 with taxes. Aluminum frame, carbon fork, Shimano tegra components, etc etc. Didn't get to test ride it because it's pouring rain but I liked the look, feel and the price. Shop offers 1 yr free tune ups and adjustments, free labour on repairs or upgrades.
> 
> Mike


That sounds perfect, so long as you are comfortable on it and it fits


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Visited local bike only shop but as I suspected selection was lousy. Only carry Giant bikes and the cheapest defy model was $949. As far as I could tell, the $599 Jamis had better components on it then the Giant entry level model. 

Mike


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

They should be able to order you or get you a Defy 5 for $600-700. The Jamis does sound like it has better components though.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)




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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Rashadabd said:


> They should be able to order you or get you a Defy 5 for $600-700. The Jamis does sound like it has better components though.


You need to factor in I'm Canadian. We don't have the economy of scale of the US so we get shafted on prices. Especially on niche products like a road bicycle. I'm sure in the US I could find a defy 5 in that price range.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

No, Giant is an international brand with pretty standard international prices. I am pretty confident that you can get a Defy 5 at a price close to that if you want it. The Jamis is a fine way to go too though. Just get fit and do a test ride and buy one of those bad boys so you can get out on the road.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Rashadabd said:


> No, Giant is an international brand with pretty standard international prices. I am pretty confident that you can get a Defy 5 at a price close to that if you want it. The Jamis is a fine way to go too though. Just get fit and do a test ride and buy one of those bad boys so you can get out on the road.


My apologies, you are absolutely correct, they don't offer the Defy 5 in Canada, only the Defy 3. That bites...

Defy 1 (2014) | Giant Bicycles | Canada


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Visit to local sport chek ( not a dedicated bike shop) found a 2012 jamis Ventura comp road bike marked down to $599 or roughly $700 with taxes. Aluminum frame, carbon fork, Shimano tegra components, etc etc. Didn't get to test ride it because it's pouring rain but I liked the look, feel and the price. Shop offers 1 yr free tune ups and adjustments, free labour on repairs or upgrades.
> 
> Mike


For general recreational riding and at your price point, I think the Jamis Ventura is a good choice. Good company (as good as any of the top three or four), strong warranty and a good mix of components for the price (especially your $700 price) - _and_ fairly relaxed geometry.

Still, you have to get set up on the bike and test ride it. It's no deal if it doesn't fit or feel right. But if you have confidence in the shop (a big plus), they'll do right by you in that regard.

If you pursue it, please update your thread and let us know how you made out.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Okay I'm ready to buy tomorrow but here's my dilemma. It's come down to 2 choices. The 2012 Janis Ventura Comp for $599 plus tax from my local sportchek. That's a sports only store with a decent bike service department. The other choice is a 2013 Trek 1.1 for $699 plus tax at the bikefit store about 15 miles away. Now bikefit is a bike specific store with I'm assuming an even better service department. The Janis from what I can tell is the better equipped bike. My only caveat is given the blowout price of the Janis it's only available in a 54 and 56 cm frame. My fitting on the Trek at Bikefit showed the 58 mm was the optimum size for me. Can 2cm really make that big a difference in my enjoyment level? I'll be a weekend rider riding an hour or 2 a week. BTW I'll definitely be wanting new after a rather lengthy discussion with the bikefit owner.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Okay I'm ready to buy tomorrow but here's my dilemma. It's come down to 2 choices. The 2012 Janis Ventura Comp for $599 plus tax from my local sportchek. That's a sports only store with a decent bike service department. The other choice is a 2013 Trek 1.1 for $699 plus tax at the bikefit store about 15 miles away. Now bikefit is a bike specific store with I'm assuming an even better service department. The Janis from what I can tell is the better equipped bike. My only caveat is given the blowout price of the Janis it's only available in a 54 and 56 cm frame. My fitting on the Trek at Bikefit showed the 58 mm was the optimum size for me. Can 2cm really make that big a difference in my enjoyment level? I'll be a weekend rider riding an hour or 2 a week. BTW I'll definitely be wanting new after a rather lengthy discussion with the bikefit owner.


Yes, the effective top tube lengths of the 56 cm Jamis and 58 cm Trek vary by about 2 cm's, which in terms of bike fit (reach, actually) is a lot, so if you've been accurately sized to the 58 Trek, I think (sadly) the Jamis falls to second place. 

You may want to get sized/ fitted to both bikes and head out on the road for test rides. The proof is in how both bikes fit and feel when riding, so you might just find a definitive answer. Do them back to back if possible, because memories fade with time.


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## Warpdatframe (Dec 9, 2012)

Definitely Go with the trek. 2cm sounds like a very insignificant numbers but in reality it's huge. The 56cm will leave you in a very aggressive position, which is not ideal for beginner/fitness riders. Don't underestimate the power of a bike shop. At sport check the guys selling bikes are probably hockey players who learned what a road bike was 2 weeks ago.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Lucky thing I listened to the learned opinions here. After some consternation, I decided whatever I ended up getting it was going to fit properly. I called the sport chek in Welland ( 10 miles away) and talked to their bike guy. He's a bike nut and semi pro rider. I told him my experience at the local store and things could not have been more different with him. Told me yes I can get that Jamis model in any size you need and in fact a 58mm was already ordered and in transit. We scheduled a bike fitting for next week too. He couldn't have been nicer or more knowledgeable. So my white 58mm Jamis Ventura Comp should be ready to roll next week. He didn't try to upsell me at all, in fact mentioned that given the ever increasing cost of components the bike I bought would sell for at least double what I paid. For my fellow Canucks I paid $678 total. 

Mike


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## crisgarenas (Apr 25, 2014)

Enjoy it!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Excellent. As you could probably tell, I was biased towards the Jamis IF (and only IF) it fit properly. 

Keep us updated on your progress, and kudos to you for being resourceful and taking the initiative to do this right. Great story for other noobs in a similar situation.


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## obed (Jan 12, 2014)

sounds like it all worked out for you...now ride the snot out of it.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Awesome! Enjoy! The helmet, pump and pedals are another 200 and that doesn't even include tubes, CO2, shoes, and most importantly in some ways, shorts/bibs. I'm new also and the extra gear was 200ish but climbing as I try to dial in the shorts.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

PBL450 said:


> Awesome! Enjoy! The helmet, pump and pedals are another 200 and that doesn't even include tubes, CO2, shoes, and most importantly in some ways, shorts/bibs. I'm new also and the extra gear was 200ish but climbing as I try to dial in the shorts.


Bought a Diadora Prorace 1.0 helmet for $30...im fairly certain the new bike came with pedals but I know what you meant... Bike shorts might set me back another $30 and I'll start my journey. Of course I'm sure I'll be upgrading along the way just don't feel this great urge to go overboard on accessories all at once. I suppose a water bottle and holder will be a necessity though. 

Mike


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Seems a good time to post my essentials list. Pick and choose as you see fit.

Wedge saddle bag - medium (Topeak/ Specialized are two good brands)
Tire levers
Spare tube
Patch kit
Piece of old tube or 1$ bill to use as a 'boot'
Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 inflator
2-3 12-16g unthreaded carts (I get the 12g's by the box at Walmart)
Multitool w/ chain breaker
Mini-pump (if you don't trust CO2 alone)

Not essential, but nice to have:
Road ID
Rag/ paper towels
Latex gloves
Waterless soap (Gojo, or similar)
A second tube, if it'll fit

Optional:
Mini-pump
Lights

I would strongly recommend a Road ID bracelet. Their basic model (Wrist ID Sport) will do. Also, a floor pump, but keep that home. 

EDIT: Two more things. 1) A computer with cadence function. Wired or wireless, depending on preferences/ budget. FWIW, I like Cateyes. 2) Camelbak Podium insulated bottles. I think there's both a chill and big version.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Bought a Diadora Prorace 1.0 helmet for $30...im fairly certain the new bike came with pedals but I know what you meant... Bike shorts might set me back another $30 and I'll start my journey. Of course I'm sure I'll be upgrading along the way just don't feel this great urge to go overboard on accessories all at once. I suppose a water bottle and holder will be a necessity though.
> 
> Mike


Some road bikes are not sold with pedals. I only posted because in my very recent experience the amount needed in the budget for non bike expenses was higher than I expected and I had some of the gear already. Shorts/bibs in particular are expensive... I ride often though, at least 4, more often 5 days a week, and I don't want to use dirty gear... (I suspect tube audio, if used in the traditional manner, will not cause saddle sores) Pay attention to PJ... Road bike tires will loose a lot of air pressure in just a day or two. Good luck bro.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Sorry if this sounds silly, but are shorts/bibs really necessary? I don't really have this urge to look like " bike rider guy". Oh and where does one keep their smartphone? Hate to admit this but I don't go anywhere minus my phone. I did reluctantly buy a helmet only because I've got kids and they'd like me to live quite a while longer. 

Oh and yes the Jamis comes equipped with pedals with toe clips. Seller did ask me if I wanted to swap them out for clip less pedals but I'd like to get my feet wet first.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Sorry if this sounds silly, but are shorts/bibs really necessary? I don't really have this urge to look like " bike rider guy". Oh and where does one keep their smartphone? Hate to admit this but I don't go anywhere minus my phone. I did reluctantly buy a helmet only because I've got kids and they'd like me to live quite a while longer.
> 
> Oh and yes the Jamis comes equipped with pedals with toe clips. Seller did ask me if I wanted to swap them out for clip less pedals but I'd like to get my feet wet first.


Agree on the pedals. Get used to the bike first. And good call on the helmet. Pretty sure my cheap old one saved my life. 

You want shorts if you plan on riding for more than say 10 miles. Not just the cushioning but the wicking. I could care less about bibs. Like them in the winter not the summer. 

Keep your cellphone in a zip lock bag in your jersey pocket. I usually put mine un the middle pocket. I am not going to take a call on the bike and that is the least accesible one. Plus it feels the most secure.


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

You'll definitely need water bottle cages and water bottles. The biggest mistake anyone could make is not hydrating when pedaling.

You'll also need a tire repair kit. You'll need to get a saddle bag big enough to carry a few inner tubes, CO2 tire inflator, a few CO2 cartriges, tire levers, a patch kit, and a multi tool. You WILL get a flat at some point. The last thing you'd want is to be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

A wise investment would be to replace the stock tires with Continental Gatorskins or Specialized Armadillo tires. The are more puncture resistant, but not completely puncture proof. The do have an added kevlar lining that helps reduce flats. If you have no ides on how to change a flat, watch some Youtube videos and practice on your own before setting out on any ride.

You'll also need to get a pair of padded cycling gloves. 

You mentioned shorts. Get a decent pair of bicycling specific padded shorts. You'll also need a cycling jersey. The three pockets in the rear are essential for holding keys, cell phone, your wallet, snacks, etc. 

And you should consider a clipless pedals and shoes, whether it be mountain bike pedals and shoes, or road bike specific. I personally prefer MTB shoes and pedals. It will allow you to get off the bike and walk much easier than road bike shoes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

NJBiker72 said:


> Agree on the pedals. Get used to the bike first. And good call on the helmet. Pretty sure my cheap old one saved my life.
> 
> You want shorts if you plan on riding for more than say 10 miles. Not just the cushioning but the wicking. I could care less about bibs. Like them in the winter not the summer.
> 
> Keep your cellphone in a zip lock bag in your jersey pocket. I usually put mine un the middle pocket. I am not going to take a call on the bike and that is the least accesible one. Plus it feels the most secure.


+1 to all of the above. 

Re: looking like a bike rider guy, this has been said many times by noobs on the forum, then in fairly short order they succumb to cycling specific apparel. 

Respectfully, I'll say "get over the look" and opt for apparel designed for comfort. Otherwise, you're apt to be suffering through some chaffing, etc. when you start logging more saddle time.

EDIT: In regards to flat repair, besides having the tools for the job, take some time to learn how to repair them at home. That way, when you're in less than ideal conditions on the side of a road, you'll be prepared.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

IME, once I'm wearing cycling shorts, I can layer a pair of baggies over them without sacrificing comfort.

That said, at this point I only ever layer anything over my cycling shorts to ride in the snow. I'm a little too proud of my body, if anything, and I also like to reduce the amount of messing around I do before I get out the door.

If you decide to go to a clipless pedal system, there are a lot of inexpensive pedals that are fine but I think it's a mistake to go cheap for the shoes. Expect a worthwhile pair to retail for at least $120. Sales and whatnot can affect that, of course. They last a lot longer than running shoes, at least, and you can ride your bike in any stiff athletic shoe until your rides start running long or you start kicking out a fair amount of power.


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## Guod (Jun 9, 2011)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Sorry if this sounds silly, but are shorts/bibs really necessary? I don't really have this urge to look like " bike rider guy". Oh and where does one keep their smartphone? Hate to admit this but I don't go anywhere minus my phone. I did reluctantly buy a helmet only because I've got kids and they'd like me to live quite a while longer.
> 
> Oh and yes the Jamis comes equipped with pedals with toe clips. Seller did ask me if I wanted to swap them out for clip less pedals but I'd like to get my feet wet first.


I'd vote for bibs vs shorts, way more comfortable. I have no idea why one of the other replies mentioned them only being good for the winter... They aren't warmer unless they're made to be warmer, I.e. thermals.

Depending on what phone you have, there may be a bar mount for it. I'm almost positive there's a bar mount for Iphones and probably one for Galaxy S phones. This could take the place of the cycling computer if you get an app for speed and gps. Strava is a good one, free and easy to use. If you can't mount your phone, I just use a small freezer bag for phone and emergency cash/CCs. Freezer bags are a little more robust than regular sandwich bags and they don't cost a whole lot... Seemed silly to buy a dry bag. I just stow it in one of my jersey pockets. I actually do the same for my flat and tool kit, but that's just me. If your jersey is loose, too much stuff in your pockets will flop all over the place.

I highly recommend clipless pedals. You'll soon get comfortable and be able to make the switch. There are always pedals and shoes on sale. Though, for your first pair of shoes, probably go try some on and buy in person. As far as pedals go, pick a type and see how it goes. Everyone has their opinion on which type works best. I use LOOK pedals. My dad believes Speedplays are the best he's ever used. Some like SPD-SL... Etc.

Anyway, bottom line, ride the crap out of what you just bought! You'll be hooked before you know it!

Side note on the computer: Cateyes are nice, but if you've got the money Garmin makes a computer with gps, HR, elevation, all that good stuff. If you're a data junkie, look into this. Personally, I have alot of fun uploading my ride and going over the data and sorting out what was good, what was bad, etc.. The Edge line is what you'd be looking at and I think the 510 is $300 US. Not a need to have item by any means, but fun to have.


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## walldoggy (Apr 28, 2014)

I got one of these to put my phone it. I have a case on my iphone so I didn't want to get one of the bike specific cases that would leave it exposed. This bag clips to the handbar or toptube and you can access the home key and screen. It comes in different sizes depending on the kind of phone you have. I got mine at REI.

Topeak SmartPhone DryBag 4 at REI.com


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Oh hey that screen shot has me thinking. Is there not an app I could use on my phone to monitor distance and speed etc etc? Why buy a catseye when I already own a $700 smartphone packed with every kind of sensor.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Oh hey that screen shot has me thinking. Is there not an app I could use on my phone to monitor distance and speed etc etc? Why buy a catseye when I already own a $700 smartphone packed with every kind of sensor.


There are tons. But it requires you to put the phone on the handlebars if you want to see it during the ride. Batteries don't tend to last and probably not as accurate.


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## walldoggy (Apr 28, 2014)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Oh hey that screen shot has me thinking. Is there not an app I could use on my phone to monitor distance and speed etc etc? Why buy a catseye when I already own a $700 smartphone packed with every kind of sensor.


There are many apps. Since I use it for running, I also used to use Runkeeper, which despite the name does track info for lots of activities. Recently I've switched to Strava. Both can map your route, give you time, distance, speed, etc. You will want to sleep your phone display in between checking on it since having it on the whole time will drain your battery.

I think this is less of an issue with dedicated bike computers. Plus they can do things like cadence and heart rate monitoring, which is a bit more involved on a phone.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

I find quadlock to be far superior to any other phone mount personally.
You can use Strava to log all of your data, it's a free app most cyclists use.

I too vote for bib shorts, normal shorts suck, not nearly as comfortable to me.

I never wanted to wear the tight clothes either but as soon as you're going 40mph or on a 100 mile ride you'll appreciate many things about cycling clothes. I find the pad essential in the shorts and I really need the pockets on the jerseys to hold food and such.

When I started riding I didn't want to use the pedals or shoes or shorts or clothing or any of that crap. I'm full on board now, it all has major advantages when you're out there.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

There's something about a smart phone on my handlebars that bothers me. Purely an emotional reaction. Maybe if I tried it, I'd find I like it.

I actually use a Garmin ForeRunner these days. I have a handlebar mount for it if I'm doing something structured - not much bigger than a Cateye - but I often leave it on record only, on my wrist, and look at it only if I want to know what time it is.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ProAc_Fan said:


> Why buy a catseye when I already own a $700 smartphone packed with every kind of sensor.


Bet it doesn't have a cadence sensor. A $35 Cateye Astrale 8 does. And cadence is something you'll want to develop/ monitor to save your knees from undue stress, help smooth the pedal stroke and build endurance. 

Battery life is far superior on bike computers as well. Both my wired and wireless versions last a year plus, but I change them after a year.

But really, it's whatever floats your boat. There are purists here on the forum that use nothing, track nothing and that's the way they like it. Others want to know most everything. I'm somewhere in the middle, focusing on more here and now, cycling related data (time, distance average speed, cadence).


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Sadly my HTC One won't fit in that drybag. I'm going shoe shopping today. The pedals I can find cheaper online.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I wondered what phone costs $700. Do Canadian carriers not do the 2-year upgrade thing? 

Give the shop a chance to give you a deal on pedals. They'll sometimes move a little on price when I start buying a laundry list of parts or services.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Give the shop a chance to give you a deal on pedals. They'll sometimes move a little on price...


I agree. Not all do, but mine price matches with online retailers.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I wondered what phone costs $700. Do Canadian carriers not do the 2-year upgrade thing?
> 
> Give the shop a chance to give you a deal on pedals. They'll sometimes move a little on price when I start buying a laundry list of parts or services.


Oh sure you can get a subsidized phone if you enjoy paying exorbitant monthly rates to cover the subsidy. Me I prefer a reasonable monthly payment and no contract. It keeps the advantage over the cellphone carrier in my corner.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I still can't imagine paying $700 for a phone. But then, I spent quite a lot more than that on my last bike.

My contract's up in not too long; I'll have to see if I can pay Verizon any less by not renewing as such.


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## ProAc_Fan (Apr 30, 2014)

Americans have it pretty good when it comes to cellphone rates. Us sheep like Canadians take if up the a$$ from the oligopoly of Bell, Rogers and Telus. They have the government regulators in their pockets and collude to keep our rates artificially inflated. Even the Brits have much better options never mind how cheap most third world countries are. Off topic but couldn't pass up the chance to vent.


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