# Cannondale early 90's expert



## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

*Cannondale early 90's expert.. NOW seeking parts...*

Looking for someone who worked for the Cannondale of that era.. someone experienced to run a few questions by.

PM if you wish. 

Thanks.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

I should have mentioned above.. that I have a '90 3.0 frame with spacing now that does not match the serial number's spacing as noted. My inquiry for those experienced with aluminum frames and running spacings a mite wider than those prescribed by the specs.


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

So you have the Ver. 2 serial number as described at Vintage Cannondale - Information and Help . Right ?
And your frame dropout code isn't: 0 = 130mm 0 = 120mm track 5 = 135mm or 6 = 126m ... 

If not one of those, what is the dropout spacing as measured on your frame ?
What model is the frame ? road, track, mountian, touring model, or a tandem ?

My '90 SR500 3.0 dropout is 126mm. ... I just put on new 105 8/9/10 wheels. The 105 spec says the rear hub is for 130mm dropouts, but measuring the 105 hub, locknut-to-locknut, it is 126.5 or so. 
I talked with several LBS wrenchers and they didn't see any issues with a 1 mm spread, i.e. up to a 127mm dropout, for my frame ...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Back in '92 I chatted with a C'dale welder and he mentioned the production line issues with having so many different 3.0 flavors. He also said that they were very busy on the line. He may have mentioned special orders or special editions, but I don't recall the details.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

My serial number is 6 63 0390 51xx.. my spaces for reading convenience. Appears to me this can only be read as version 2 of the serial # coding.

This frame matches on the one in the '89 catalog pic.. I assume a road (sez right on the frame CRITERIUM) bike frame. I wouldn't know the difference between that and a racing frame.. if there's one.

Measures right on 4.72"..or 120 mm area... measured with a caliper.

I wonder if a 120 single speed rear was set in there for a length of time.. possibly that accounts for the now 120 spacing?


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

Winter,

In the '89 catalog, on what page is the one like yours ? 

The 1990 catalog doesn't mention a 120mm dropout. Though some other bike makers have 120mm dropouts. 
Can you post a picture of the rear dropouts, something like the pic on page 16 in the '90 catalog.

Good question on the single speed ... are the dropouts parallel or do they toe in any ?

-----
My Hobie Cat sailboat was flipped by a storm that took it up, turned it over, and then dropped on the beach, 
giving the aluminum mast a noticeable, permanent starboard curve. and an above average speed on a port tack..

I knew some Naval Air rework folks who were aluminum experts and they advised not trying to straighten it.
So, some aluminum alloys can be bent and still be functional.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

http://66.147.244.179/~vintagm8/year/1989/1989.pdf Mine is same as the red Criterium pictured around 1/3rd way down.

No toe in I can see (admittedly this is hard to judge).. the left dropout is I see now stamped R SD.. the SD in a circle... this on the outside. Dropouts again same as the pic noted above.

Appears to me now.. the rear brake mount crossbar determines spacing (?).. along with I guess how the rear dropouts were welded on per spacing. Those rear dropout tabs are around 2" long extending from the frame intersection of the two tubes.. with the axle hole center at 2/3 rds of an inch from the end. Occurs to me now to set these rear dropout tabs in a vise.. one side at a time.. and give them a slight toe out. Just.. in the "thinking stage".... per that idea.


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

I was thinking much the same. The dropouts are steel, ... see references below for more info ... 
A little controlled and precise adjustment there should reduce spreading stress at the rear brake mount.

This afternoon, I talked with a very experienced wrencher at a local bike shop. He recommended having the work done at a bike shop that has pro level frame repair and adjustment tools and equipment. ... That ensures equal or correct spreading on both sides and precisely the minimum needed spread. 

He went on to say, that if you do the work, then make a jig for securely holding the frame; and rig a turnbuckle, an axle , or such device that lets you precisely control the spread by turning a bolt or turnbuckle. .... He also said " Steel is easy, aluminum not so easy. There's risk involved no matter who does the work..."

My '90 SR500 dropout has an A in a circle and something else, but it's painted over too much to read..

Hope this helps .... Good luck whichever way you go.
_______________
Serotta Competition Bicycle Forums - Spreading the dropouts on an old cannondale frame

dropout spreading on an aluminum frame? [Archive] - Bike Forums

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cannondale/whos-got-oldest-cannondale-52187-2.html

Replacement Replaceable Derailer (Derailleur) Dropout Hangers for Diamondback, Raleigh, Nishiki and Univega

pre-'91 Cannondale Derailleur Hanger Replacement?


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks Winter for those links.. so good info.

Those dropouts are aluminum also.. magnet doesn't attach. I'm inclined to set my 126 in their and run it. Yet now looking at the frame again.. one could rig a brace for the stays just forward of the dropouts.. something solid.. and then use the bolt to widen.. with care. But with that 'HEAT TREATED ALUMINUM' logo on the frame... I view that as a large STOP sign.. . 

I'd guess a former owner bent the dropouts in with care.. to achieve this 120 spacing. That'd be .118" per side.... the left dropout for instance is .230 thick.


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

Well that's a game changer for you. 

If the former owner adjusted them in to 120mm, then you are where I was with the bent Hobie mast. 

Are you going to look for a 120mm hub; try to gently slip in a 126; or, sell the frame on craigslist ?


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

*Now... 3.0 BUILD questions...*

I build my own wheels.. so any width adjustment is easy to accomplish. I'm fine with this buy... it's adding some challenges which I don't view as a problem. 

Getting a 3.0 frame/bike was just in itch I had to scratch ... and I got this frame reasonable. I have a Schwinn Premis circa '88.. I thought I'd swap that wheel set onto the 3.0 and give the aluminum vs steel issue a first hand view keeping the variables as close to the same as I could reasonably do. 

I've a carbon fiber flat bar here... I see the 3.0 could easily take a 25 width tire. I could build a box type rim for the rear... there's avenues to adjust to soften the ride if need be. Something to fiddle with...:thumbsup:

:: ROCK LOBSTER CUSTOM BICYCLES :: FOUND this link this morn.. nearly a clone of the 3.0 so it looks. My frame is 63cm.. is under 3.5 lbs sans fork.


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

Yep ... I'd been riding a caad2 M400 for several years and wanted to go back to a road bike. 
An '89 Black Lightning frame showed up on craigslist, and I've been finding parts.
... NOS downtube shifters, colnago drop now but have a flat bar ready also, 105 /Open Pro wheels, friction shifting, 25 Contis' etc

Saw Rock Lobster via one of the bike shows .... Would at least like a jersey for recalling that 1980's dance craze: The Rockin Lobster 

I might visit Santa Cruz in 2012 ... make an appointment to visit their shop; ride the Giant Dipper coaster one more time; and cycle Skyline, Old La Honda, Pescadero, etc.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

"To be able to send PMs your post count must be 10 or greater" .. after I had already successfully sent one.

So.. post 7.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

"To be able to send PMs your post count must be 10 or greater" .. after I had already successfully sent one.

So.. post 8.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

"To be able to send PMs your post count must be 10 or greater" .. after I had already successfully sent one.

So.. post 9.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

"To be able to send PMs your post count must be 10 or greater" .. after I had already successfully sent one.

So.. post 10. Apologies for this clutter... yet having already sent ONE sans problems.. I need to reply.. sans the computer jibberish interferring<<<<<<<<<.


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## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

Im new here tooo, Where's the typewriter ? 

See PMs a few minutes ago. Thanks.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

*Top tube cliips for brake line*

These plastic clips that go into the top tube that hold the brake cable.. where
does one purchase these? Can't find a thing online.......... assume someone makes a metal version that last longer... [?].

FWIW.. this frame musta came 122 mm.. I build a wheel for the rear that fits in nicely... :thumbsup:


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## CAAD2 (Aug 3, 2011)

I just bought a 90 SR800 last weekend that im giving a once over and have been looking for the plastic wire guides, doesnt look like the are available any longer. I read on another forum that the company that made them lost the mold in a fire or some such thing. Jagwire has some that just stick on with 3m tape, once my bike gets back from powder coating im going to give them a try.


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

Can I use a triple front derailer on the front.. using only a double crank.. assuming limit
adjustment onto only those two?

Can I use a 52 tooth front derailer with say a 44 or 46 ring as the largest front.. again assuming adjustment?

Suggestions for a good front derailer?

Many thanks in advance!

Getting the bike ready.. finally. Lots to do.. will post some pics when completed.. can't wiat to RIDE it....


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## Winter Rider (Dec 13, 2011)

Happy to report.. had a great summer with my 3.0... around 1300 miles on it. "See 'dale" is the handle... 

What color.. matches this Inferno Red cannondale paint? Is it that Dodge Viper red color I read on the net?

Thanks.


Adding later.. I now own TWO more C'dales.. M700 which I just finished.. and SR500 '88 that'll get a makeover this winter. "See 'dale" is again bare.. likely to get retouched paint this winter. :thumbsup:


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## Danny59 (Nov 12, 2012)

*Rider*

Hi, I'm a 60 year old road biker and cycling is my passion. I've also competed on road and track competitions and fortunately I have been very successful. Maybe due to my insistence on improving. In the morning I admit I wake up hurting but eating and supplementing yourself correctly is important. This can help recovery and less hurt muscles. Even though everything has a price, the hurting is part of it.


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