# Good road for uberclyde???



## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

I am 360lbs and 6'2". Some LBS sneer at me when I say I want to ride roadie or clyclocross. Is there a motobecane bike under $600 that I can use with a good wheelset or am I stuck having to save over $1500 as one bike shop told me?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

The bike itself is irrelevant, as long as you don't try to buy a Scott Addict or some such thing.

At 360, you'll want some good wheels, and that's really the only concern you should have. Any bike that's less than $3000 is going to fine, as far as strength.

I'd recommend something like Mavic CXP22s or some Velocitys with decent hubs - 36 spoke preferably. 

BTW, I'm an uberclyde (305) and I own a bike shop. Needless to say, clydes don't get that treatment at my shop. I've never understood the derision... fat guy + bike = good. fat guy + Cheetos, tv and sofa = bad.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

Now, please forgive me but will I be ok on a Motobecane? I have been over on teh MTBR forums and they do nothing but bash motobecane and state thier frames are bad.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> Now, please forgive me but will I be ok on a Motobecane? I have been over on teh MTBR forums and they do nothing but bash motobecane and state thier frames are bad.


Motobecanes are made by either Kinesis or Ideal, depending on model. Kinesis makes Raleigh's frames. Ideal is Fuji, and many of BikesDirects models are just Fujis with different decals. None of the frames by either manufacturer are "bad". Well, except the frame on the Wellington. That one was awful.

The main things you'll lose by buying a bike online are a good bike fit, the ability to change things during the fit (stem, handlebar, seatpost, etc), and possibly the ability to trade in the wheels for some stouter ones. There's also the warranty thing. Boxing and shipping the bike versus just taking it to your LBS. However, it sounds like your local bike shops aren't very accommodating to people who don't look like cyclists.

Look at something like a Motobecane Vent Noir with upgraded wheels.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

Will a carbon form be too weak for me?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

No. I'm still fond of steel forks myself, but most non-ultralight carbon forks should be fine.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

I had no idea there was a non ultralight carbon fork,


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> I had no idea there was a non ultralight carbon fork,


Ultra-Light being carbon steerer, carbon dropouts.

Which you aren't going to find in your price range anyway, so it isn't a problem. Most carbon forks on a bike in your range are going to have aluminum dropouts and an aluminum or steel steerer. Not ultra-light, reasonably strong, and - of course - cheap to meet the price-point of the bike.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

I was looking at this in particular,

http://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/1722536572.html


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

If it's the right size, why are you still looking at it? That's a hell of a price, and should be in your garage right now.

Edit: Although.... looking at it, it desperately needs someone who knows what the hell they're doing to properly position the handlebar and shifters. They're way whacked out.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

I have never been fit for a bit so I am not too sure. I am also afraid my 360lb fat *#$ will break something.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> I have never been fit for a bit so I am not too sure. I am also afraid my 360lb fat *#$ will break something.


Ok, we already know you're 6'2". What's your cycling inseam?

How:


> Stand against the wall and put a book between you legs so it pressed right up against your pelvic bone. Make a mark with a pencil on the wall (I'd tape a piece of paper to the wall in the general area, or something...) along the top of the book. Measure the distance from the floor to the mark in centimeters.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

It looks like about 86cm


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> It looks like about 86cm


You have short legs. Which means you have a lot of torso. So, you're gonna have the same problem I do. You need a short bike for your legs, but you need a long bike for your torso. Ergo, you need a sloping top tube road bike.

Inseam-wise, you should ride a 56cm. There's no way your torso is going to like a 56cm bike. I would go check out the 58cm and see if you can stand over it. I think it should be okay, but I can't say positively. You need the length of the 58cm frame.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

How will I know if the top tube is too short or too long? Will there be stress like in my hands or something?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> How will I know if the top tube is too short or too long? Will there be stress like in my hands or something?


If it's too short, you'll feel scrunched up - like you're riding a kid's bike. Too long and your arms will be straight and you'll feel like your stretching to reach the hoods.

The way he has that bike set up right now, you'll feel like you're stretching no matter what. The bar is rotated down WAY too much, and the shifters are too far down on the bends. I can guarantee that a 58cm won't be too long for you. If anything, it will be too short. Guessing at your level of flexibility - based on mine - you'll want an upright stem and probably something in a 120mm length. You won't be riding in a stretched out, "aero" position for a while. It took me 3 years before I had the flexibility to have the bars lower than the saddle. lol.

This is where having a friendly bike shop would be a help. Too bad you're so far away... I'd tell you to just bring the bike in and we'd see what we could do to make it fit right. You're limited by your stand-over, so I think you're probably going to have to maximize your fit on a 58cm.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

ok. Thank you so much for your help. I don't understand why the LBS around here do not volunteer to to swap out stems, bars, etc. When I was looking for a mountain bike, it was pretty much, "oh you like that, cha ching goes the register" and that is usually it. I am currently stuck with a mountain bike I do not like because of this.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

My budget will soon be $900 for a bike + new wheelset. Is there a cyclo or road bike that I can get and after market wheelset that will handle #60lb boy like me? I was looking and the Motobecane vent nior but that is too much and build a custom wheelset for $900 don't you think?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

Rear wheel: http://www.velo-orange.com/vo2.html
Front wheel: http://www.velo-orange.com/pbp70rimsh10.html

Bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt2300_x.htm

That Dawes Lightning is a Fuji Newest 1.0, which sells for $1100.

http://www.fujibikes.com/Road/Sport/Newest10.aspx

That's right at your limit.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

WOW. I had no idea that was basically a fuji? Is there a site or comparison list of BD bikes to other manufactures? This is interesting.

Anyway, do you think that the carbon fork is safe for me to crank on?


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

what is your opinion about the Fantom CX bike with the rims you suggested?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> WOW. I had no idea that was basically a fuji? *Is there a site or comparison list of BD bikes to other manufactures?* This is interesting.
> 
> Anyway, do you think that the carbon fork is safe for me to crank on?


Not that I'm aware of, no. Many of them are Fujis. Ideal owns Fuji AND is the manufacturer of their frames. They also sell to BD. So, you get Fujis with different paint and graphics (which is an upgrade, in my opinion) for much less than a Fuji.

A carbon fork will be fine. Especially a carbon fork on a <$1000 bike.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> what is your opinion about the Fantom CX bike with the rims you suggested?


I haven't seen more than one or two of those in person, so I can't really say. You go down a level on the parts compared to the one I linked to. 
A 'cross bike isn't a road bike, you know. It will feel different. Why are you thinking about it? The steel fork? You really aren't gaining anything going with steel. Carbon forks aren't fragile, nor do they have a weight limit (generally).

I was 320 at my heaviest. At that time, I still rode my lightweight aluminum/carbon road bike with a carbon fork, Mavic Aksium wheels, and carbon seatpost. You really aren't going to break stuff as much as you seem to think you are. The ONLY thing I would worry about is the wheels. You aren't going to break a frame. You aren't going to break a fork.
(and a 'cross bike isn't any stronger, BTW)


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

If what you're looking for is something to put miles on, you might consider a touring bike as well. Upright geometry, triple crankset, wider tires... It makes for a nice package that is designed for heavier weight.

I'd also consider an entry-level 29er with slicks and max air pressure. My Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29hardtail has disc brakes and a lockable front fork, which makes it nicer on the road when climbing. Mtn bike gearing is "easier" than road, but I have little trouble maintaining 15+ MPH on mine on the road even in the early season. 

Buy something that you can put some serious miles on, then put your head down and turn over the cranks.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

PlatyPius said:


> I haven't seen more than one or two of those in person, so I can't really say. You go down a level on the parts compared to the one I linked to.
> A 'cross bike isn't a road bike, you know. It will feel different. Why are you thinking about it? The steel fork? You really aren't gaining anything going with steel. Carbon forks aren't fragile, nor do they have a weight limit (generally).
> 
> I was 320 at my heaviest. At that time, I still rode my lightweight aluminum/carbon road bike with a carbon fork, Mavic Aksium wheels, and carbon seatpost. You really aren't going to break stuff as much as you seem to think you are. The ONLY thing I would worry about is the wheels. You aren't going to break a frame. You aren't going to break a fork.
> (and a 'cross bike isn't any stronger, BTW)


that is good to know.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

I was originally thinking about a touring bike but then was looking into cyclocross because I heard that the front fork can accomodate a little wider tire and when I get in more shape, go thinner.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> I was originally thinking about a touring bike but then was looking into cyclocross because I heard that the front fork can accomodate a little wider tire and when I get in more shape, go thinner.


If you think you would use a touring bike as a touring bike someday (ie: go touring. lol) then I would do that. Don't worry about the multi-function thing. Buy a touring bike that you can afford and ride the hell out of it.

When the time comes for something faster/cooler/whatever, just buy a new bike. a) you'll want something lighter at that point; guaranteed.
b) You'll still have a touring bike for hauling gear/groceries.
c) Part of the fun of cycling is buying new stuff.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

*Touring...*



PlatyPius said:


> If you think you would use a touring bike as a touring bike someday (ie: go touring. lol) then I would do that. Don't worry about the multi-function thing. Buy a touring bike that you can afford and ride the hell out of it.
> 
> When the time comes for something faster/cooler/whatever, just buy a new bike. a) you'll want something lighter at that point; guaranteed.
> b) You'll still have a touring bike for hauling gear/groceries.
> c) Part of the fun of cycling is buying new stuff.



I was thinking about a touring bike but they seem pretty heavy. I don't want to tour but would like to do urban, commute and someday a century. I have a thing for lighter bikes like under 24lbs. To me that is light since I have always dealt with mountain bikes.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> I was thinking about a touring bike but they seem pretty heavy. I don't want to tour but would like to do urban, commute and someday a century. I have a thing for lighter bikes like under 24lbs. To me that is light since I have always dealt with mountain bikes.


Understandable. I'm currently hovering around 305 and my bike weighs about 17 pounds.

My "gravel bike" that I use for country roads is in the 28 pound range.

Gravel bike below...










Don't get too caught up in the weight. Yet. You will not buy a light bike for what you currently want to spend. You should focus on buying the best bike you can for the money. Of course, almost any road bike is going to weigh 24 pounds or less...


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

what road bike are you riding?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

ccd1977 said:


> what road bike are you riding?


Scott CR1 Pro.


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## ccd1977 (Apr 30, 2010)

what made you choose a scott instead of a BD bike.


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## WaynefromOrlando (Mar 3, 2010)

ccd,

PlatyPius's public profile shows he is the owner of a bike shop, as does his avatar. His shop sells among a number of brands, Scott bicycles. It is bad form for a cycle shop owner to not ride his own brand, hence the Scott.

Platy is a pretty good guy to give straight skinny on a BD bike, if I lived anywhere near his shop I would be there at least a couple of times per month. With the exception my closest LBS, most of the shops in Orlando are pretty rude about BD. Or building your own bike, which is why I chose my LBS. Perchance they sell BD products, and my casa currently sports 3 Motobecanes and 1 Nishiki that I am rebuilding.


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