# Best way to remove crown race, full-carbon fork?



## howdyhowdyhowdy (Jan 12, 2011)

What is the best way to remove the crown race on a full carbon fork without damage the fork? There is no "access groove" where I can get a punch on the bottom of the race like on a mountain fork. There is a slight gap where I could get a thin screwdriver/wedge in between the crown/race and possibly twist to get some leverage, but I would guess that would damage the carbon on the crown.

Any tips appreciated


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Take it to a shop. They should have a crown race remover that can get it off without damaging anything.


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## howdyhowdyhowdy (Jan 12, 2011)

*So what you really mean is:*

I need to purchase a crown race removal tool because there is no other possible way to remove the crown race?

What tool do you use? Is it safe for carbon steerers/crowns?


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## JustTooBig (Aug 11, 2005)

howdyhowdyhowdy said:


> I need to purchase a crown race removal tool because there is no other possible way to remove the crown race?


no, she means you go to your LBS and ask them, "can you use your crown removal tool to get this off without damaging my carbon fork?"

they say, "yeah, it'll take about 40 seconds"

they remove the crown race without damaging the fork.

you pay them a few bucks

everybody's happy.


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## howdyhowdyhowdy (Jan 12, 2011)

JustTooBig said:


> no, she means you go to your LBS and ask them, "can you use your crown removal tool to get this off without damaging my carbon fork?"
> 
> they say, "yeah, it'll take about 40 seconds"
> 
> ...


I would do this if I felt they were competent. That is, could do it without damaging the fork.


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## orlin03 (Dec 11, 2007)

Andrea138 said:


> Take it to a shop. They should have a crown race remover that can get it off without damaging anything.


Double that. No sense distorting it or hurting your fork; they'll have you going in no time. It's just about the only thing I still leave to the shop- that and refacing the BB and headset areas if needed.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

There are a few bike repair tasks that are, in my opinion, totally worth it to have a professional perform. This is one of them. 

Skill, specialized tools, or a combination of the two lead me to have pro's do the following tasks:

1) Cut a carbon steerer. 
2) Install a crown race. 
3) Remove a crown race. 
4) Face and or chase BB.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

This is about as cheap as these tools come, and you'll have to wait for it to arrive:
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?Item=100037152

I do everything at home, with the exception of facing and chasing, because of tooling costs. Other headset tools can be bought or made for a few dollars. This tool is the most expensive.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

$19.99 at the secret store

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_124653_-1_201492_10000_202581


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

bikerjulio said:


> $19.99 at the secret store
> 
> http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_124653_-1_201492_10000_202581


Even better. I didn't spend 10 minutes searching.


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## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

yes, it's called a bearing splitter. if you are handy you probably could knock it off with the screwdriver or chisel but the bearing splitter is the best way with a carbon fork. That's the only (carbon fork) reason I probably would not attempt this with a chisel or screwdriver and hammer though.


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## cmg (Oct 27, 2004)

Even with the bearing splitter the problem is keeping the top of the race from digging into the carbon as the tool is moving it. drip some oil around the upper lip of the race to encourage a slide. Will the new headset bearing not work with the race that is on the fork?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

cmg said:


> Will the new headset bearing not work with the race that is on the fork?


I think using a race that his not an exact match is really asking for trouble.


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## howdyhowdyhowdy (Jan 12, 2011)

@ rx-79g

Ordered, thanks for that. I am of the "teach a man to fish" school of thought, and I learned from my parents if you want something done right, do it yourself. I don't allow anyone to work on my bikes and do most of my own car repairs, so I don't have a problem purchasing single-purpose tools, if necessary, though $150 for the Park version I expect to use exactly once is a bit steep. Can you also recommend a good automotive spring compressor 

@ cmg

I spent 3 days trying to find an exact replacement bearing for the OEM headset online, no such luck. My LBS was of no use in this matter. The bearings available online don't match the dimensions printed on my bearing, so I have to assume there are correspondingly slight differences in the crown race and the upper alignment doo-dad (it's an integrated headset); I am choosing to replace the entire headset, but with something where replacement bearings are readily available (Orbit CF- stainless bearings).


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

You can use a large dull knife to gently roll around the race (not pry). This pops it off pretty quick. The more wedge like and tapered the knife, the better.

When you consider that the bearing splitter is essentially doing the same thing in a more crushing manner, the large knife method is gentle and safe in comparison. Just go slow and resist the urge to pry.

I wouldnt let _most_ lbs employees use a wrench tightened crushing device on my carbon fork. The only plus side is if/when they damage your fork, they're liable to buy you a new one.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

TomH said:


> You can use a large dull knife to gently roll around the race (not pry). This pops it off pretty quick. The more wedge like and tapered the knife, the better.
> 
> When you consider that the bearing splitter is essentially doing the same thing in a more crushing manner, the large knife method is gentle and safe in comparison. Just go slow and resist the urge to pry.
> 
> I wouldnt let _most_ lbs employees use a wrench tightened crushing device on my carbon fork. The only plus side is if/when they damage your fork, they're liable to buy you a new one.


The difference between the tool and knife is that the tool doesn't cant the race as it works it off. That seems like more stress to me.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

A thin knife wont.. like a standard butter knife or steak knife. If you have a thick wedge knife it works pretty well. I was more saying that I trust ME with a knife more than I trust most LBS employees with the proper tool  If you improperly use a bearing splitter, its pretty easy to apply way too much force with a wrench tightened tool, you gotta be going wild with a dull knife to cause damage.

The bearing splitters are only 19 bucks, its not an unreasonable cost to do it yourself. Not necessary to drive the OP to the lbs like some posters were trying to say.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

TomH said:


> A thin knife wont.. like a standard butter knife or steak knife. If you have a thick wedge knife it works pretty well. I was more saying that I trust ME with a knife more than I trust most LBS employees with the proper tool  If you improperly use a bearing splitter, its pretty easy to apply way too much force with a wrench tightened tool, you gotta be going wild with a dull knife to cause damage.
> 
> The bearing splitters are only 19 bucks, its not an unreasonable cost to do it yourself. Not necessary to drive the OP to the lbs like some posters were trying to say.


Not saying it is a bad way to do it - just that it isn't as even as a tool that applies equal pressure on four sides.

Personally, I'd try the knife first, but I know my tool skills. But the way that tool works you can't really apply "too much force". The ring pops before the tool gets close to the steerer.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

JustTooBig said:


> no, she means you go to your LBS and ask them, "can you use your crown removal tool to get this off without damaging my carbon fork?"
> 
> they say, "yeah, it'll take about 40 seconds"
> 
> ...


^This

I work in a shop, though, so I'm kinda biased. We don't mind doing easy "expensive unitasker tool" stuff like that- usually for free while you wait.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

TomH said:


> You can use a large dull knife to gently roll around the race (not pry). This pops it off pretty quick. The more wedge like and tapered the knife, the better.
> 
> When you consider that the bearing splitter is essentially doing the same thing in a more crushing manner, the large knife method is gentle and safe in comparison. Just go slow and resist the urge to pry.
> 
> *I wouldnt let most lbs employees use a wrench tightened crushing device on my carbon fork. The only plus side is if/when they damage your fork, they're liable to buy you a new one*.


A) Most shops don't use a "wrench-tightened crushing device" to remove crown races. We use:










B) Either the area where you live has the highest concentration of incompetent mechanics known to man, or you're overly paranoid/critical.

C) The bearing splitter shown earlier in the thread is (almost) the same as the bearing splitter used to pull bearings from axle shafts and such on cars. Seems to be overkill for a carbon steerer....


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## matanza (Jun 9, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

You don't have to try to screw the 2 halves together as you suggest just might tend to dig into the fork (I doubt it though...) All you have to do is to tighten the splitter enough to just grab an edge of the race, then tap on the back side of the splitter, or if you are really doing it right, use a slide hammer.
Still if it was me, I would jam a wood chisel in there to get a bit of a gap.... You just do it very easily and it would probably be OK. The OP shoudl take this to a shop if he's asking though


cmg said:


> Even with the bearing splitter the problem is keeping the top of the race from digging into the carbon as the tool is moving it. drip some oil around the upper lip of the race to encourage a slide. Will the new headset bearing not work with the race that is on the fork?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

matanza said:


> Just humor him guys and let him enjoy his insecurity.


Really had to dig deep into the random bucket for that one.  

The first shop used a screw driver and a hammer, destroying my race completely, then told me its a disposable part and that I needed to come back and purchase a headset. The second one just gouged up my fork. 

I dont think its too much to ask to not have metal chunks gouged out of my gear.. Im pretty lax about the appearance of my bikes (ill settle with some scrapes) but thats a bit much. If thats being hyper critical, paranoid and insecure (?), you guys have some low standards for repair quality. 

The OP also seems to have the same experience at his lbs that I did at multiple ones in my area. I dont see any good reason to drive people away from educating themselves on bike repair. The link for the 19 dollar splitter is more beneficial than "too hard, go to lbs and hope for the best".


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

TomH said:


> Really had to dig deep into the random bucket for that one.
> 
> The first shop used a screw driver and a hammer, destroying my race completely, then told me its a disposable part and that I needed to come back and purchase a headset. The second one just gouged up my fork.
> 
> ...


Since there are non-gauging, non-destroying tools available to shops, did you have them reimburse you for the damage?


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

rx-79g said:


> Since there are non-gauging, non-destroying tools available to shops, did you have them reimburse you for the damage?


Yeah, if any mechanics in my shop did something redonkulous like trying to use a screwdriver to remove a crown race, then I'd snatch them baldheaded.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

Andrea138 said:


> ^This
> 
> I work in a shop, though, so I'm kinda biased. We don't mind doing easy "expensive unitasker tool" stuff like that- usually for free while you wait.


...or in my case... 

for a 6-er of something decent to drink

M


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Andrea138 said:


> Yeah, if any mechanics in my shop did something redonkulous like trying to use a screwdriver to remove a crown race, then I'd snatch them baldheaded.


and that my dear, is the quote of the year to date


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## masont (Feb 6, 2010)

MShaw said:


> ...or in my case...
> 
> for a 6-er of something decent to drink
> 
> M


I also work in a shop, and can say without question that those who drop off a sixer along with any service work get their stuff done a lot more quickly, and are very unlikely to get charged for small things that don't take much time


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## howdyhowdyhowdy (Jan 12, 2011)

*update:*

Ordered up the IceToolz crown race remover, about $30, product wasn't in stock, so I had to wait about 2 weeks before I could use it.

I was concerned about damaging my fork due to the design of the tool (I'll get to that later) so I tested it on my all-metal mountain bike fork since I was swapping the h/set on that also. The design of the tool is pretty well thought out, however one of the "blades" wasn't perfectly smooth. I took a little paint off the crown at this point. Prior to using it on the carbon fork I found a ceramic stone and smoothed it out a bit the best I could (my files were all at work). I still managed to slightly chip the paint, but I am confident it is superficial and didn't touch the carbon.

Upon tightening the clamp the blades wedge under the crown race so they aren't visible. My concern was that the leading edge of the blades would cut into the fork, so I would tighten the clamps, which would work the edge under the crown race, tap on the clamps with a hammer, tighten the clamps some more... repeat. I was hoping the race would just pop off after a couple whacks but the press fit was tighter than I anticipated.

About half way through removing the race, and continually retightening the clamps (the chamfer on the blades is quite wide), I realized all I had to do to check if there was an interference was to remove the tool, tighten the clamp bolts all the way down and attempt to slide it over the steerer tube. I then discovered that there is no way, on a 1.125" steerer tube, that the leading edge of the blades could contact the steerer, so I was able to remove the race with confidence by tightening it all the way and tapping with the hammer, which sped things up quite a bit.

Moral of the story: if you like to be self-sufficient, but don't want to spend a boatload of $$ on a pro-recommended (Peter Chisholm @ Vecchio's Bicicletteria) tool like the Park CRP-1, this tool is more than adequate (some filing may be required prior to use, and don't plan on overnight shipping).

-or-

if you think you need a shop to do this for you, then yes, you do. Find a good one.


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