# Winter WW build



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Howdy, new around here but some of you know me from the MTBR forum. Anyway, I've been really considering getting a road bike and building it up over the winter. I want to build the bike up one part at a time instead of buying a full build with parts I don't want. I'm going for a full out WW bike and want to make it a light as I can, well at light as my budget allows. So my first question is; could anyone recommend some frames and forks that are light, well made and in the $1000 range? I'm not familiar with road component prices so if this is too low of a price range to get something decent please let me know.


----------



## Kickit (Aug 9, 2006)

The Immortal Force ($600 from BikesDirect.com) or the Pedal Force QS2 ($600 from PedalForce.com) would be a couple to look at for budget light full carbon frames.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

thanks. What are some options over $1000?


----------



## Cheers! (Aug 20, 2006)

Cervelo SLC-SL
Cervelo R3 SL
Scott Addict
BMC Pro Machine SLC01
Cannondale SuperSix
Litespeed Ghisallo
Stork FASCENARIO
canyon ultimate CF

take your pick. I believe all of those frames are under 1000g (not incl. fork)


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

yeah but none are around $1000 are they?


----------



## Cheers! (Aug 20, 2006)

drainyoo said:


> yeah but none are around $1000 are they?


I believe you asked, "What are some options over $1000?"

all of those are "OVER" 1000.


----------



## Cheers! (Aug 20, 2006)

for around the 1000 mark I would pick the pedalforce frame. Unless you have race licence you can get canyon at racer's discount. 

Cannondale Caad 8 or 9 frame could probably be purchased for 1000 mark.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Cheers thanks. I meant slightly over $1000. Some of these frames cost more than a motorcycle. 

But I agree that the Pedal Force frame is probably the best option. Throw on a Look or Easton fork and I can build myself a pretty light bike.


----------



## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

First question. Do you know what size frame you need?


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Juanmoretime said:


> First question. Do you know what size frame you need?


No but I've been searching around on how to size myself up for a road frame. Anyone know a good way to figure out my size?


----------



## Cheers! (Aug 20, 2006)

go down to your local bike store and pay the rental fee and take the bike out for a day and see if it fits you.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Makes sense but is there an easy way to measure myself at home so I know what size I will need?


----------



## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

drainyoo said:


> Makes sense but is there an easy way to measure myself at home so I know what size I will need?


http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/

This will get you close although headtube, top tube and seat tube lengths plus geometry are all very important for the ultimate fit.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Juanmoretime said:


> http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
> 
> This will get you close although headtube, top tube and seat tube lengths plus geometry are all very important for the ultimate fit.


Thanks. Based on that it seems like I would need a 56cm (c-t) size frame. Doesn't seem like Pedal Force has a 56cm so the 55cm should do right?


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

So I've been doing some searching and so far these are the frames Im considering. Tell me what ya think. 

Pedal Force QS2 - 1000g - $600 
BMC Road Racer SL 01 - 1300g - $1195 
Cannondale CAAD9 - 1250g - $1000 
Ridley Orion - 1250g - $1599


----------



## AlexCad5 (Jan 2, 2005)

I don't understand being "new to road biking" and wanting to build a weight weenie. I think and intelligent build starts with really knowing which parts you are willing to compromise weight for strength, and then in throw a dollar value. That takes some experience. Guys who build WW projects have multiple bikes and deep pockets. They are also willing to call their significant others or a taxi when something breaks 30 miles away from the nearest civilization. 
I consider myself somewhat experienced, having built around 10 bikes, and the more I build, the less carbon do dads I tend to use. If I get my bike in the 16 lb range (with pedals and cages) I'm more than happy, and I can't tell the difference in the the ride quality of my 18+ lb builds and my 16 pounders, other than when I lift them off of their bike hooks.
Focus on the fit, fit, fit, and buy a bike whole. Then lighten it up by buying some light weight wheels. Once you have ridden it, and decided you need a different reach or drop on the handlebars, you can find one that fits you and is really light. The same goes with the stem, saddle, etc.


----------



## Cervelo-er (Apr 10, 2004)

In addition to what AlexCad5 said, I'd caution against it simply because you may not have a great feel for what you like in a road bike...or even if you will like road riding enough to warrant spending the scrilla on a WW bike...or a hi-end bike for that matter. Given some of your comments about the cost and being on a bit of a budget, I'd think it should be a concern. There are a lot of personal preference issues in road bikes...just as in MTB's. You don't want to plunk down gobs of dough for ergo bars, Campy shifters, and compact cranks...only to find you prefer classic drops, SRAM, and standard drive...

I'd say go for a bike that fits your price range and has WW potential, maybe something used like a TCR or CAAD...ride it for a while, and then enjoy upgrading as you get a feel for what fits you, your budget, and your riding style best.

Either way...welcome to the real man's sport. LOL.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Thanks. Honestly I appreciate the advice but I'd rather get some advice on which frames would work for what I want to do. It's not really that serious guys. I want to build a bike over the winter cause it exciting and I love learning new things. No big deal. I'm not looking to race the Tour de France next year, just want to build a light bike to ride.

So any other frames out there in the $1000-$1500 range that are lightweight?


----------



## Retro Grouch (Apr 30, 2002)

*Fetish?*



drainyoo said:


> So any other frames out there in the $1000-$1500 range that are lightweight?


It not a frameset *ONLY*, but for the price and SRAM Force groupo, it seems like a fair price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=110166541782&Category=98084&_trksid=p3907.m29

I would take off the crank, brakes and fork and replace it with the following:

- Easton EC90 SLX fork
- Zero Gravity Ti brakes
- Stronglight Pulsion carbon crank

Opting for some lightweight carbon wheels should get the bike into the 14 pound range.


----------



## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

AlexCad5 said:


> Focus on the fit, fit, fit, and buy a bike whole. Then lighten it up by buying some light weight wheels. Once you have ridden it, and decided you need a different reach or drop on the handlebars, you can find one that fits you and is really light. The same goes with the stem, saddle, etc.


I agree completely with fit being the numbr one concern. Unless you really know what you're looking for in a frame, spending top dollar makes little sense. I'd spend the winter building up a nice bike and putting miles on it, then once you know a bit more, go for something different (if you need/want to). You need miles on a road bike to decided what "fits" and your body settles in on a position (how you fit a bike the first time you ride it will not be how you fit a bike several thousand miles down the road).

Also, defining a light weight bike is different depending on who you talk to. I thik everyone would agree that a 13 pound bike is really light. But is a 16 pound bike? What about an 18 pound bike? Or a 20 pound bike? I think you'll get varied opinions.

You can have a lot of fun and spend a lot less money building up an 18-20 pound bike, and that is not really be considered heavy by a lot of people. Try riding that for a while and decide where you want to go next.


----------



## drainyoo (Jul 14, 2007)

Retro Grouch said:


> It not a frameset *ONLY*, but for the price and SRAM Force groupo, it seems like a fair price.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=110166541782&Category=98084&_trksid=p3907.m29
> 
> ...


Pretty interesting. What's the weight on that puppy? Do you have experience with that brand?


----------



## Retro Grouch (Apr 30, 2002)

According to the eBay listing, the weight is claimed to be *15.5 pounds* as shown. 

I have no firsthand experience with the Fetish brand. I just thought the bike looks cool and the price is not through the roof considering the price of a SRAM Force groupo alone.


----------



## threesportsinone (Mar 27, 2007)

> It not a frameset ONLY, but for the price and SRAM Force groupo, it seems like a fair price.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ksid=p3907.m29
> 
> ...


Then you could sell the FORCE crank for ~$300 and the brakes for ~$150 the fork might go for ~150 (no big brand name bling but full carbon 360g). And buy the ec90 SLX fork for ~315, some FSA K-force cranks for ~300-350, and the brakes for ~400 on ebay. All you need is ~$440 for upgrades.

BTW the Fetish Frame in question normally costs $2,500 and weighs in at a claimed 1084g for the 56cm.


----------

