# more aggressive fit



## notwist (Feb 26, 2009)

I was fitted when I first bought my bike, but now I am looking for a more aggressive fit. Will my saddle height stay the same so I should only adjust the handlebar?


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## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

Yep. 

But be careful... I have dropped two or three spacers from my stem and ran into a comfort issue at the saddle. I started sitting too far up which scrunched the knee and caused pain problems.

So make sure when you drop a spacer you stay constant every where else (obviously except your back).


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

By 'aggressive' you mean increase saddle to bar drop _only_? If so, measure it now so it'll serve as a baseline, then lower the bars _not more than _5mm's (2.5 is better) and go for several rides over a period of days or a week. In other words, make small adjustments slowly to give your body time to become accustomed, otherwise you're apt to introduce a fit problem in the process.


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## Falling Snow (Apr 2, 2008)

I second what PJ352 said in lowering your bars in increments and taking several rides so that your body gets a chance to adjust. Also I found that as I lowered the bars, I needed to move my seat back a bit to keep proper balance. Anytime you move your seat back, you _may_ find that you need to lower it ever so slightly to maintain the same leg extension.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Falling Snow said:


> I second what PJ352 said in lowering your bars in increments and taking several rides so that your body gets a chance to adjust. *Also I found that as I lowered the bars, I needed to move my seat back a bit to keep proper balance. Anytime you move your seat back, you may find that you need to lower it ever so slightly to maintain the same leg extension.*


I'm not disagreeing because this is a good point, but as a cautionary note, lowering the bars minimally and slowly should be done _well before _deciding to make any saddle adjustments. Too many changes _can_ introduce new problems.

I understand that everyone is different, but IME dropping the bars 5 mm's required no further changes. As always, YMMV.


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## Falling Snow (Apr 2, 2008)

PJ352 said:


> I'm not disagreeing because this is a good point, but as a cautionary note, lowering the bars minimally and slowly should be done _well before _deciding to make any saddle adjustments. Too many changes _can_ introduce new problems.
> 
> I understand that everyone is different, but IME dropping the bars 5 mm's required no further changes. As always, YMMV.


Right, I should have said _after_ I lowered the bars instead of "as I lowered the bars". It wasn't something I did simultaneously, nor would I recommend it be done at the same time. It's just something you might find over time, particularly if you keep lowering the bars incrementally to a point significantly lower than the starting position.

In my case, I went down 3cm over time from where I started but it was over the last centimeter that I really noticed issues with saddle positioning. At first I was just uncomfortable and thought I might have to bring my bars back up a little, but then I realized my saddle might be too far forward - which it was. ...It depends a lot on how much more aggressive the OP wants to go, which he didn't specify and may not know yet.

I'd also be curious to know if his stem is flipped up or down.


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## notwist (Feb 26, 2009)

Here's my bike right now. I obviously don't want to go too aggressive and get too uncomfortable.. maybe just remove one of the spacers and see how it feels?








Also, newbie question - is my stem flipped up or down?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Your stem is flipped down. 

If that's a stock set up, you've got one 10mm and two 5mm spacers. I suggest removing one 5mm spacer and go from there. Also, FYI the stock stem is 4 position adjustable, (2 down/ 2 up). When you remove it to remove the spacer you'll see a shim used for adjustment. I think the OEM shim allows for 8 and 12 degrees, but don't quote me on that.


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## Falling Snow (Apr 2, 2008)

Yep, looks like you can take a spacer out and give it a few rides to see what you think. As has already been said, only take one out at a time, the smaller the better, and give it a try without changing anything else first. You only want to be changing one thing at a time and you will want to be able to revert to the previous setup as well if you don't like the change.

When you take the spacer out, simply replace it on top of the stem. You'll be able to revert back if you want to. There are also a number of threads here on how to correctly do this procedure and tighten the headset if this is something you do yourself.

Your stem is flipped down. If it were flipped up, it would be angled up significantly towards the sky (sort of the way your downtube looks from a profile, though not as steep). When it's down, in this position, it is actually at a negative angle even though it doesn't look like it initially because of the angle of the headtube.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Falling Snow said:


> *When you take the spacer out, simply replace it on top of the stem. *You'll be able to revert back if you want to. There are also a number of threads here on how to correctly do this procedure and tighten the headset if this is something you do yourself.


If this is an OEM stem, Specialized doesn't recommend using a spacer above it. The top cap is made to fit flush with the shim and that's not possible with the spacer there. The OP may find that it's necessary to either use a different brand stem or a top cap that will fit flush with a spacer. The third option is to stay with the Spec stem and get a -10 shim which will drop your bars about 5mm's. This assumes you're now at -8, so verify that by checking the number next to the arrow on your stem.


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## Falling Snow (Apr 2, 2008)

PJ352 said:


> If this is an OEM stem, Specialized doesn't recommend using a spacer above it. The top cap is made to fit flush with the shim and that's not possible with the spacer there. The OP may find that it's necessary to either use a different brand stem or a top cap that will fit flush with a spacer. The third option is to stay with the Spec stem and get a -10 shim which will drop your bars about 5mm's. This assumes you're now at -8, so verify that by checking the number next to the arrow on your stem.


Thanks for clarifying/correcting me on how the Specialized setup works. Sorry if I caused any confusion! :blush2:


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Falling Snow said:


> Thanks for clarifying/correcting me on how the Specialized setup works. Sorry if I caused any confusion! :blush2:


No biggie and no confusion.  

It's a nice set up in that it allows some flexibility adjusting for bar drop (as long as the shim is employed). But the flip side is that the way it's designed shuts the door to some common options. Speaking of options, the one I left out is to cut the steerer down 5mm's and that alleviates the problems, but for obvious reasons that's not the best course to take.


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## notwist (Feb 26, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Your stem is flipped down.
> 
> If that's a stock set up, you've got one 10mm and two 5mm spacers. I suggest removing one 5mm spacer and go from there. Also, FYI the stock stem is 4 position adjustable, (2 down/ 2 up). When you remove it to remove the spacer you'll see a shim used for adjustment. I think the OEM shim allows for 8 and 12 degrees, but don't quote me on that.


I don't think it's the OEM stem that come with bike. When I got fitted, the LBS had used a different sized stem I believe. I wish I could verify but I'm at work at the moment. Thanks for all the help.


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## notwist (Feb 26, 2009)

Well I just checked what stem I have and it's an Easton, not the OEM Specialized stem that comes with it. I removed one spacer and placed it above the stem. One question: How do I make sure the handlebars are centered with the fork and front wheel? Also, I am able to rotate the bottom spacers and the top headset cup. I can't remember if I was able to before removing the spacer. Is this normal?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

notwist said:


> Well I just checked what stem I have and it's an Easton, not the OEM Specialized stem that comes with it. I removed one spacer and placed it above the stem. One question: How do I make sure the handlebars are centered with the fork and front wheel? Also, I am able to rotate the bottom spacers and the top headset cup. I can't remember if I was able to before removing the spacer. Is this normal?


I center the bars by eyeballing them in relation to the front wheel and make adjustments accordingly. It helps to have the front wheel straight, so if you have a trainer with a front wheel block use that. Otherwise it's just trial and error, but read my next paragraph because that comes first.

It's not normal to be able to move either the spacers or the top cap and I suggest you correct that before riding. It sounds as though you didn't preload the headset bearings before tightening the stem, so loosen the stem (make sure it's loose by holding the fork and moving the stem side to side), then tighten the top cap screw enough so that the fork moves with no play and without binding. Once that's accomplished, center, then tighten the stem.


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