# The Lynskey Peloton



## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Right now, it's just a UPS tracking number. Soon it should be a Lynskey Peloton I recently ordered from Adrenaline Bikes.

My intent is to make this a chronicle of sorts starting with the buying experience... then the bike and set-up... and finally some ride reports.

I'll also be posting requisite bike pr0n photos along the way.

In the meantime... you never realize how many UPS trucks there are on the road until you're waiting for a package to arrive... 

In our next exciting episode... "The Buying Experience: or, Whadya Mean You Can Customize Anything???"


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

The process really began with a previous thread here. I had done some preliminary searching based on a few basic requirements:

A titanium frame
A maximum budget of 3K (complete bike, new)
Relaxed geometry 

The budget, in particular, quickly narrowed my choices to one of three options: Bikes Direct, Litespeed or Lynskey.

With the previous thread, I solicited feedback which led me to take a closer look at Lynskey.

On their website they had a "Silver" series that included the Roleur and the Peloton. They have since eliminated the "Silver Series" and moved the Peloton to their "Sport" series and the Roleur to their "Pro" series. Of the two, the more relaxed geometry of the Peloton seemed to fit my needs.

I ended up not buying directly from Lynskey primarily because I couldn't customize the fit of the bike. They sell by size (S-XL) and with that comes standard bar width, crank length, stem length, etc. I know my own fit well enough to know that a 172.5 crank works, but 42cm bars are too narrow for me. According to the person I spoke with at Lynskey, customizing sizes wasn't an option for the Peloton. Ultimately, I couldn't justify spending 3K on a bike knowing that I would have to spend additional money swapping out parts to get the fit that I needed.

So... I took a look at Adrenaline Bikes.

On their website, they advertise that you can, essentially, customize anything. For most builds they include multiple build kits and say that if you want something that isn't on their list, to contact them. I found the idea of choosing so many of my own options pretty appealing. Before I contacted them, I set about putting together a Peloton using the options they listed on their site. I found I could get something that fit my needs for under 3K. So, I sent them an e-mail and started the process.

I worked with Jesse, who suggested we begin via e-mail. I sent him the list I had put together and he gave me some suggestions as well. He was initially very quick to respond and always helpful. I never got a sense of being "up-sold" on anything. Because they're a LBS in California, they could, indeed, mix and match brands and sizes based on what I needed.

The only issue I ran into was the wheel set. The stock wheels for their build are Fulcrum 5s. I've never ridden them, but I know myself enough to know that low spoke count wheels and my Clyde body are not compatible. Jesse was able to source a set of 32 spoke wheels, but I wasn't confident about them. So, I decided to stick with the Fulcrums and hope they hold up for a while.

Once we had finalized most of the details via e-mail. I called to process the order. During that discussion, I realized just how customizable the bike was. With the saddle, for example, one of the options listed on the Adrenaline site is a Brooks Team Pro. During our phone conversation, I mentioned I was a fan of the B-17. Jesse said he could do that, no problem. I wanted 28c tires and was hoping for some Ruffy Tuffy's. While Jesse couldn't source those, he could source some Jack Brown's. So, I went with those. The point is, they really can customize practically anything and if you decide to buy from them, don't be afraid to ask about options even if they aren't "on the menu". In each case for me, the new options were swapped in for the same price as the standard upgrade.

Oddly enough, the simplicity of the ordering process ended up being one of the things that gave me a moment of pause. I talked through all of the choices over the phone. I gave my payment information... and that was it. The bike was ordered. Since I bought the bike over the phone, there wasn't a receipt or a printed invoice involved as there would be with an LBS or even an online order. Some people may find that disconcerting (my wife certainly did) . It might have been more reassuring to receive at least an e-mail confirmation of the order after the fact.

The only other issue was the fact that once the order was placed, the lag between responses to e-mails grew pretty quickly. I had a question, for example, about when the bike would ship and if there would be a tracking number. Comparatively, it took quite a while to get a response. I assume (and it's just an assumption on my part) that once the order was placed, I wasn't as much of a priority any more. I get that. It's a business. My advice to others would be to call instead of e-mail if there are questions after the sale.

All in all, the experience of buying the bike was very positive. Jesse was personable and very accommodating. The business model is pretty smart. The store allows you to build your own bike with only the parts you want without the hassle of sourcing all of the components yourself. No compatibility issues. You just have to know what you want. With so many options, it helps to do a little research. In the end, I came in just under my 3K budget (shipping included) and was still able to upgrade the saddle, tires, seat post, stem and headset to the components I wanted.

Today is Thursday. UPS tracking tells me the bike is currently in Lenexa, KS. If you're in the neighborhood, give it a wave.

Next Up - "Christmas Morning"


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

Great write up , keep them coming.


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## PCM (May 27, 2004)

I agree with mikerp... keep the updates coming.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

The UPS man brought this box out of his truck and for just a moment I thought "Uh oh." Then it occurred to me that since Adrenaline built up the bike, test rode it, and then packaged it, they probably reused a full-sized bike box.

Sure enough, inside was a Lynskey. "Whew!" 









I opened the box to find the bike relatively well mummified in bubble-wrap and tape. The rear wheel was the exception, but it did have plastic spacers on the axles to protect it and the box itself wasn't damaged.

















Out of the box, the bike came mostly assembled. Putting it together consisted of only:

Bolting the front brake to the forks
Removing the stem face plate
Putting the bars in position
Bolting on the stem face plate
Installing the skewer and front wheel
Centering the front brake
Bolting the post/saddle combo into the seat tube
Installing the pedals and bottle cages (mine)
Airing up the tires

Everything else (cabling, derailleurs, cranks, headset, etc.) was already assembled.

Once I had everything together, I went over every bolt and adjustment. No problems.

By then, it was dark. I'm hoping to get a shake-down ride in tomorrow and will take some pics of the complete bike.

Next up: "First Ride and Requisite Bike Pr0n"


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

Congrats on the new bike! Looking to treat myself to a new ti or steel bike in two years. A Lynskey Peloton is on the list. Can't wait to hear your review and feast on some new bike porn.


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

Looking good, hope the weather is great for your first Saturday with the new ride.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Still waiting for the thermometer to get above freezing. Man, what a winter...

Light enough outside, though, to snap a few pics









The specs:

Lynskey Peloton frame ML (56cm)
Lynskey Sport carbon fork
Cane Creek 110 headset
Torelli stem (35 degree, 90mm)
FSA Omega bars (44cm)
SRAM Apex group (white) - brakes, levers, front derailleur, rear derailleur (WiFli), crankset (50/34, 172.5), cassette (12-32)
MKS Lambda platform pedals
Thompson Elite seatpost 
Brooks B-17 saddle
Fulcrum 5 wheels/hubs (20/24)
Ruffy Tuffy tires (28c)

This will be my first experience with SRAM. I'm used to 105. I hope I don't accidentally snap off the brake lever trying to shift...  The Apex was a compromise due mostly to budget but I like the gear range. No mountains here, but we do get headwinds that will suck the life out of you. Also, the white was a nice alternative to the typical black or silver.









No. It's not a race bike, but that was never the intent. Compared to what I'm used to, though, it is ridiculously light.









Better pics to follow, along with a ride report as I start to dial in the fit.


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

Looking good. I'm curious what made you choose the Peloton over the other models?


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

T K said:


> Looking good. I'm curious what made you choose the Peloton over the other models?


Of the Lynskey models in my price range, the Peloton was a little more relaxed than the Roleur. The Roleur is more of a traditional race geometry. Adrenaline also carries Litespeed, but the T7 starts at $1299, as opposed to $1168 for the Peloton.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

With multitool in hand, I set out on the ride. The goal was to get a feel for the bike, adjust to the SRAM shifters, and see what fit adjustments I need to make.

As a rider, it's important to note that the word "hammer" is not in my vocabulary. I prefer to go farther, easier. I have heard a number of people laud the ride quality of titanium and that, along with its durability, is a big part of what made me look for an affordable titanium bike. 

At the start of the ride, I wouldn't say I was disappointed, but I think I was expecting a significantly different feel from the steel bikes I've ridden (I've never tried a carbon bike). Don't get me wrong, the ride was very comfortable, just not remarkably different from what I was used to. Then, I got to my first hill and got out of the saddle for the first time. Wow! Now that was different. It was a wonderful combination of stiff, smooth and light. The lighter weight and relative lack of flex made more of my effort feel like it was going straight to the wheels. The overall impression I got was that the bike had all of the positive qualities of steel, with none of the drawbacks.

The SRAM shifters proved to be easier to use than I expected. I just had to keep reminding myself to push through the first click to downshift. Shifts were crisp even under load. Braking was very good, which was a pleasant surprise. I've gotten used to swapping out OEM pads with KoolStop salmons, but the stock pads seem fine. 

I did notice a bit of chain rub on the front derailleur cage. The derailleur needed a minor adjustment when I got home. The cage wasn't quite parallel with the chainring. The stem was just a little out of alignment as well. No biggie.

The wheels will be my biggest worry. The Fulcrum 5s look nice. They spun true and easy out of the box. I heard no spoke ping during the ride, which suggests to me that the wheels were properly tensioned and relieved. But with my weight and the low spoke count, I'd be lying if I said I didn't cringe a bit with each bump, waiting to hear the sound of a spoke popping. That said, the ride included rolling over two sets of train tracks and a short section on a bumpy dirt road. 

I'm glad I knew my fit preferences well enough to swap out the parts I needed. I know some folks like to make fun of the "high rise" stem, but it (plus 40mm of headset spacers which I was also able to specify) put the bars level with the saddle, just where I like it. The zero setback seatpost also works for my purposes. The bars may need to be tilted down just a bit. The hoods on the Apex shifters are thick and sit above the bars more than I'm used to with 105s. But I'm going to give it a few more rides to make sure. The levers have a shorter reach, though, which I like. It's just the first ride. I've learned to be patient and not try to adjust too much, too soon. 

Overall, for a complete titanium bike under 3K, I think I chose wisely. 









The first voyage out into the wild...


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

Good to hear things worked out and you are happy with the ride. :thumbsup:
The weather will no doubt be getting better in your area shortly and you will be racking up the miles.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

A few photos for anyone curious about what the bike looks like up close:

































I'm certainly no expert, but the welds look clean.

I did have a few questions. In the pic below there is a noticeable gap between the top of the fork and the lower crown race:









I'm assuming this is normal, but I have seen forks where this gap is covered by a rubber gasket presumably to keep dirt and water out.

The other question is about the wheels:









It's a little hard to see, but on both the front and rear wheels, the spokes adjacent to the valve stem are stainless steel and feel thicker than the rest of the black spokes. Is this a design feature for Fulcrums?

















It's just a sticker, but I thought the signature was a nice touch.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks, everyone for the well wishes. Work is about to shift into 14 hour/day mode for a while. But, I will post updates as I put more miles on the bike.


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

The fork is normal, it's a "generic" fork fitted to a headset. No idea about the spokes.
In regards to the name on the frame, it's always been a good sign for me to have someone put their own name on their product.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

mikerp said:


> The fork is normal, it's a "generic" fork fitted to a headset. No idea about the spokes.
> In regards to the name on the frame, it's always been a good sign for me to have someone put their own name on their product.


I did a little digging, and it may be that the two spokes are meant to balance out the seam on the opposite side of the rim. Fulcrum has a term for it (of course), "Dynamic Balance".


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## davcruz (Oct 9, 2007)

The fork kinda looks like it could be designed for use in an integrated setup or non-integrated setup. Of course using it as a non-integrated would produce that little gap.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

I have a Litespeed made by Lynskey when he owned Litespeed (mine is a 1999). They're good, well made bikes. You'll get a lot of use out of that bike. I have three road bikes and ride the Litespeed about 50% of the time. It's kind of my go to bike. 

Not so sure I'm digging the white components. But its a done deal. Maybe white bar tape would help.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

If I swap the tape, though, I'll incur the wrath of the "saddle must match the tape" gang. And they're a mean bunch. 

Seriously, though...

The white is definitely different. I wasn't sure about it at first, but I thought it would be a nice change from the usual black and silver options. Yeah, it's going to get dirty quickly, but I treat bikes pretty well, so hopefully it won't be an issue.

At some point down the road, when it's time for new cables and housing, I'll likely swap those to white. I'm not sure about the tape yet.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Nice bike, but way TMI. However, the pic of the box and the bike in bubble wrap is inspiring.


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## SantaCruz (Mar 22, 2002)

Looks to me like you need a bike with a taller head tube, or the next bigger frame size. Just sayin. Do the 28s fit with adequate clearance?


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

SantaCruz said:


> Looks to me like you need a bike with a taller head tube, or the next bigger frame size. Just sayin. Do the 28s fit with adequate clearance?


A taller head tube would be nice, but a larger frame would also mean a longer top and seat tube. I'd need a shorter stem to get the same reach and the saddle would have to drop and shift further forward. To get one frame that fit all my needs, I'd have to go with a custom frame build.

The 28s have okay clearance. I don't think I could go any bigger, though.

I took a few pics up close










The rear might have clearance for something slightly larger










The front... not so much.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

A beautiful morning. Low 60s and partly sunny. So, out I went for a nice 24 mile out-and-back. 

I'm still adjusting the fit, but it's minor little details now. Reassuring to know that the M/L frame was the right choice for me.

I'm appreciating the Apex group more and more, particularly the rear derailleur shifting. The double-tap makes moving up the cassette very smooth even under load. With the 105 I'm used to, I would have to relieve stress on the drivetrain to get a clean shift.

I have made one alteration. I swapped out the 50t ring for a Stronglight 46t from the parts bin. 

The ride continues to be comfortable. I don't think I'm particularly faster, but I don't seem to fatigue as quickly.

The Fulcrums are fine thus far. The ride today included a 30mph downhill with some serious seams in the pavement. I also discovered that the two stainless spokes provide a good place to put the spoke magnet.

Thunderstorms tonight... snow tomorrow.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

Personally I wouldn't be happy with the front tyre clearance.
It might be ok so long as your wheel a perfectly true.

If your miles from home and it goes off for some reason you might be getting a taxi home.
Nice bike though. I have Litespeed Icon. Brilliant bike.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

giosblue said:


> Personally I wouldn't be happy with the front tyre clearance.
> It might be ok so long as your wheel a perfectly true.
> 
> If your miles from home and it goes off for some reason you might be getting a taxi home.
> Nice bike though. I have Litespeed Icon. Brilliant bike.


I know tire sizes differ by manufacturer, but I'm taking Lynskey at their word when they say:


Easily accommodates up to 700x28c tires
But, with the low spoke count and my weight, I have already mentally prepared myself for the day when a spoke pops and I have to call my wife for a ride home. And I've started a new wheel fund.

It happened once before with a rear wheel on an older bike with 24 spokes. A spoke broke and the rim immediately went so far out of true that even opening the brake calipers wouldn't give enough clearance. It ended up causing a hop in the rim that neither I, nor the LBS, could get out.


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## wxflyer (Jan 16, 2012)

Great looking bike and write up. I don't mind the extra info, nice to hear your story and impression of the bike. Just curious if you think the 56 would be a good fit for me -- I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

wxflyer said:


> Great looking bike and write up. I don't mind the extra info, nice to hear your story and impression of the bike. Just curious if you think the 56 would be a good fit for me -- I'm 5'10 w/ 32" inseam.


Hard to say based on just height and inseam. I can tell you I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam and it fits me well. But personally I've never felt comfortable with small frames and long stems. Maybe it's because I'm a Clyde, but with too small a frame I feel like I'm riding a kids bike. With a larger frame and higher bars I feel like I'm sitting "in" the bike, rather than on top of it. 

According to Lynskey's sizing guide, you should be good with a M/L (56) frame.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

150 miles in...

Overall, the bike is doing great. I'm starting to gain more of an appreciation for the feel of TI. For normal riding the feel is relatively stiff, but it doesn't transfer vibration the way previous aluminum bikes did. When stressed, I can feel the frame give slightly and spring back. All in all, it makes for a very enjoyable ride. I find myself putting in more miles and feeling better afterward.

Creaks and clicks and the occasional pop...

The saddle (Brooks B17) was groaning a bit. At first I chalked it up to the break-in process. Later, I decided to put a bit of grease along the saddle rails and that seems to have solved the problem.

I had a click coming from the seat post as well. I added a bit of grease to the post and seat tube (which already had some) and the collar (which had none). We'll see if that solves it.

The only real annoyance thus far has been the occasional popping I get from the drivetrain. It seems to happen when spinning for a while in an easy gear... letting off... then starting to pedal again. I'll sometimes hear/feel a pop that feels like pressure has built up and suddenly released. Because it happens suddenly and infrequently, I'm having a hard time pinpointing the cause. I tightened the rear skewer before my ride today, but it still happened once. I've checked chainring bolts and the crank arm bolt and both are solid.

I'm liking the action and the feel of the Apex. My 105 levers now feel gargantuan by comparison.

The wheels on the bike go round and round...

Thus far the Fulcrum 5s (24/20) have been holding up well, even under my weight. This was my biggest concern when buying the bike, so it's been a pleasant surprise. That said, I've ordered a set of H Plus Son Archetypes (32/32) laced to 105 hubs. Once they arrive, the Fulcrums will become back-up wheels. When I do the wheel swap, I also check the bottom bracket to see if that might be the cause of the popping.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

Interesting write up - thanks.

I've just been for a bike fitting and this frame was one of the ones suggested by the shop. It hadn't been one that I'd considered previously as I was looking at steel frames. However, lots of positive comments on this frame so it seems like it could be a good option. Just waiting to get all the measurements back to see how this geometry would suit me. I was surprised how "off" my current set up was!


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## Apexrider (Oct 10, 2011)

Opus51569 said:


> The only real annoyance thus far has been the occasional popping I get from the drivetrain. It seems to happen when spinning for a while in an easy gear... letting off... then starting to pedal again. I'll sometimes hear/feel a pop that feels like pressure has built up and suddenly released.


That might be caused by the use of excessive grease on the pawls in your cassette body which sometimes prevents the pawl from popping into place.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Apexrider said:


> That might be caused by the use of excessive grease on the pawls in your cassette body which sometimes prevents the pawl from popping into place.


Thanks. It hasn't gone away entirely, but it seems to be less frequent after tightening the rear skewer. I wondered if the wheel was being pulled a bit off camber while spinning (my weight and low spoke count contributing?), then popping back into place after I let up. 

Either way, hopefully the new wheels will help.


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

I've never been a Fulcrum or SRAM fan. I'd much prefer Shimano over SRAM any day. I've had SRAM Force and had nothing but problems. I've had Fulcrum wheels and had noise issues too. If they work for you, great. Everyone has their own personal preference. At least you're enjoying the bike and the ride quality of a Lynskey. I sure enjoy mine!!


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

So... Done deal now, the Peloton was marginally a better fit than the Smoothie (due to taller head tube). Having handled both frames in the shop, it was a rather straightforward upsell. Workmanship looked great on both but the titanium kinda sold itself. 

Will be built up with 105, mavic open pros on ambrosio rims. Can't wait!


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

73Chaz said:


> So... Done deal now, the Peloton was marginally a better fit than the Smoothie (due to taller head tube). Having handled both frames in the shop, it was a rather straightforward upsell. Workmanship looked great on both but the titanium kinda sold itself.
> 
> Will be built up with 105, mavic open pros on ambrosio rims. Can't wait!


Congrats! Be sure to post some pics when it's done.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Problem Solved?

It looks like at least part of the problem was related to the chain. I wanted to leave the original wax lube on the chain as long as possible, just wiping off the exterior after a ride. The wax, though, was relatively sticky and picked up a lot of grit. I stripped the old lube and applied some homebrew (1/4 synthetic motor oil, 3/4 OMS). The last two rides have been pop-free.


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## Tachycardic (Mar 31, 2013)

How's the B17 doing? How long did it take for you to brake it in? I'm thinking of trying one.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

About three weeks ago, I fitted a Brooks swift to my current bike. I didn't find it uncomfortable to begin with, but is is getting MORE comfortable now that I've got a few miles on it. Now I am debating whether to get another one on the lynskey, went it is built.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Tachycardic said:


> How's the B17 doing? How long did it take for you to brake it in? I'm thinking of trying one.


Somewhere on this forum, you'll find an old thread I started asking how anyone in their right mind would drop 100+ dollars on a leather saddle... 

Not my proudest moment.

Once I took the plunge and bought one, I understood. I now own three if you include the one that came on the Peloton.

The break-in for this B-17 is going well. I just got back from a 30 miler. Given the long winter, though, my butt is still getting used to riding in general, along with the new saddle. The trick for me is getting the angle of the nose right. Too low and I keep sliding forward as I ride. Too high and it puts too much pressure on the perineum. I think I have a good angle now.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Opus -- What level of finish is your bike? I know he offers brushed for $175 and polished for $300. Is your frame brushed, or the base finish?


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

pmf said:


> Opus -- What level of finish is your bike? I know he offers brushed for $175 and polished for $300. Is your frame brushed, or the base finish?


Mine is the "Bright Brushed". On the Lynskey site, it's listed as a $300 upcharge, but on the Adrenaline site it's the stock frame/price they offer.

Speaking of finishes. While I dig the look of the brushed titanium, I have to say the stickers Lynskey puts on the frame leaves something to be desired. They are very brittle and flake off easily. At this rate, pretty soon it's going to be naked except for the head badge.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Mmmm... beefy.

If you've read this far, you may recall I planned to change out the Fulcrum 5s with something a bit beefier. They arrived this morning:

View attachment 296400


View attachment 296401


H Plus Son Archetype rims (32h), 3X lacing, 105 hubs.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

Popped into the lbs today and received some bad news - there are no Peloton frames available in my size until September at the earliest. Don't really want to wait that long. A suggestion was the Sportive, however I don't think the geometry will be quite as good for me - I will need more spacers on top of the headtube and a higher rise stem. I could go for a R255 but this is 50% more expensive frame. In the uk, the Peloton frame is £1,000 and the R255 is £1,500 so we would get looking at over £2,500 for the built up bike. 

Alternatives (although similar price):

Bikes | Decade | Tripster Atr | Kinesis Bikes UK

Equilibrium Ti | Genesis Bikes

The kensis is rather a different concept being a kind of "all road" machine. In some way that appeals - I could have 2 sets of wheels and have a really all purpose bike. Bridelways / forest trails are the limits of my off roading so with chunky tyres that would be fine, plus another set with skinnys for pure road outings.

The genesis looks nice as a road machine, you get the fork included for £1,500 so maybe £100 or so less than the lynskey R255.

Dilemma! 

Budget has drifted from orginal intention of £1,500 - £2,000 to £2,500 -£3,000 for the options above. Which is quite a lot. I am telling myself that the price doesn't matter "that much" because I intend to keep this bike for so long as I can still pedal. On the other hand, there has to be a limit somewhere.

Any thoughts gratefully received. 

PS - It is not possible for me to test ride these as they are not held in stock. I've had a complete fit already and the fitter will look at how these options will fit me, compared to the Peloton / R255 (which are the same).


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## Apexrider (Oct 10, 2011)

Here the r255 is €1595 which is about £1290. Could be interesting for you.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

Apexrider said:


> Here the r255 is €1595 which is about £1290. Could be interesting for you.


Interesting... Thanks


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

You are seemingly there with spending the extra money, the £100 won't make a difference a month latter other than if you save it now you might regret not spending it if your heart is really set on a Lynskey.
There is definitely more going on with the R255 in regards to tubeset
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5RmrBATL70

In regards to the options, I'd be move inclined to go with the Genesis (more data on the frames on the site - not much info on where things are made), keep in mind you would only save £100 and be getting less (no mention of butting).

I'd go for the R255.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

mikerp said:


> I'd go for the R255.


I think this is probably where I will end up. Thanks also for posting the link - interesting vid which did explain exactly what is what with those 3 Lynskey models. 

As far as I can work out, Genesis and Kinesis are both maunfactured in Taiwan. Nothing wrong with that but I am impressed that Lynskey can manufacture in USA for the same price as these companies are doing so in Taiwan. 

So I am feeling a preference for Lynskey as it feels more like a "lifetime" bike which is what I'm after. 

It might actually save me in the long run as if I went for the ATR bike which is a bit "off roady", I can already hear my internal rationale for why I would need to also buy an Italian steel road bike at some time in the future...


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

LOL N+1 for the number of bikes.
Agreed no issue with buying from Asia, I would expect to see a cost savings for doing so, as a Lynskey owner it was one of the factors with my purchase (I own a few of them). 

On a side note how does it work for you if you order a frame directly from the factory?


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

Got a call yesterday from the shop saying they had located an XL Peloton frame so I am back to plan A. Hopefully only a couple of weeks to wait. 

And I can spend the difference on an upgrade for my daughter's bike. In a moment of haste I bought her a thing from Halfords which weighs a ton. She's been hauling it round for a couple of years now so I'd like to get her something a bit better.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

mikerp said:


> On a side note how does it work for you if you order a frame directly from the factory?


I'm not sure if this is possible in the UK - If you select "UK" on the Lynskey website you get directed to a place called Hotlines:

"Hotlines is a distributor of premium goods to the cycling industry in the UK and Worldwide. We pride ourselves in providing quick and efficient service and expert product knowledge. We are the exclusive UK distributor for many of the leading brands within the cycling industry. We also distribute our own brands Nukeproof, Ragley and Brand X dealer direct Worldwide."

The prices listed on Hotlines are for frames only and they are all the top RRP -no discounts.


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## 73Chaz (May 18, 2014)

Ahh - another call today. When the distributor fulfilled the order they discovered the stock take was wrong and they don't have an XL Peloton after all. They also don't have an XL R255. Suggestion now is an XL R230 or Cooper as they are the most similar thing available. I've had a look at the geometry of the R230 and it is slightly more aggressive than Peloton / R255. The frame is also slightly more compact. 

I don't want to race, I want a bike that is comfortable, reasonably quick and fun to ride for longish trips. So now I am a bit stuck as to what to do.


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

Call Lynskey directly and talk with Don or Mike.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Rainy day after rainy day. So, if I can't ride the bike, I can tinker with it. I decided to do a little rerouting of the cables. The build from Adrenaline included a kind of odd "S" curve for the derailleur cables that allowed them to run parallel to the downtube. By crossing the cables beneath the downtube I was able to eliminate the "S" and create a more natural bend. I was also able to swap out the stock black SRAM cable housing for some white Jagwire housing I had on hand and get a bit more white into the overall color scheme.

The only negative was that I lost the bar tape in the process. The adhesive backing ripped the tape as I removed it. It's a shame because I really liked the feel of the tape. Oh well... omelettes and eggs I suppose.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Finally, a decent stretch of weather and I was able to get in a 50 miler today. Rerouting the cables seems to have made the shifting smoother, but then I might have done that inadvertently when I set up the derailleurs. By the end, I was glad to have the 12-32 in back. The end of the ride included a nasty little kicker so it was nice to be able to bail out and spin.

I've also been looking for some other white bits to help balance out the look of the bike. I'm not there yet, but it's a work in progress.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

I think I've finally got the look and feel of the bike the way I want it.









I had the Bontrager stem from a previous build. The white helps to tie in the white of the Apex components and the high rise fits my odd measurements. I found a white seat post from Soma to balance it out.









A close-up of the new cable routing.

View attachment 298163


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The bag is actually a motorcycle bar bag that I picked up at a leather shop for $15. Yeah, it's huge, but I'm a packrat, especially on longer rides.

View attachment 298166


I picked up a bar end mirror but had to do some modification due to my wide body. Now I can see the road rather than just myself.

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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

The problem is the bike just feels "right". It's not too stiff. It doesn't flex too much. It absorbs but doesn't feel dead. 

It's a bit of a "Goldilocks" problem. Not too hot, not too cold... just right.

But how do you adequately express that in a comprehensive review? I haven't figured that out, yet. So, here's a picture...


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I really like the white component look, if they had the white components when I got my Peloton I would have gone that route too, instead I went with all silver trying to be different from the all black stuff I see all the time. Too bad SRAM didn't make a white front derailleur, I would be half inclined to tape off the Sram words and the inside facings of the derailleur and paint it a glossy white to match the rear!

I am thinking of going with white bottle holders and a white pump though instead of silver. I already have white handlebar tape but black hoods and a white seat and white cabling.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Since I'm relegated to the rollers indoors, I thought I'd try to find some more white bits for the Peloton. I swapped out the Velocity Deep Vs I had on my commuter. I had wanted a wider bar, so I picked up a 46cm Deda RHM01 in white as well, though you can't really see it in the picture. VP 069 pedals in white. Timbuk2 seat bag in white as well.

I don't think I'll be changing saddle and bar tape to white and changing the fork just to get a different color seems a little excessive. So, this is how it's going to look for a while.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Yep. Still looks the same.









Still performing flawlessly, too.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Opus51569 said:


> and changing the fork just to get a different color seems a little excessive.


First off, cool thread. I missed it back then. I'm in the process of getting a steel frame that I choose everything else for from a local shop so can kind of relate.

Regarding the fork. Yes changing for color seems pointless when you consider you could get a pro paint job for much less (I think).....but it might be worth it for tire clearance. 

I have to wonder if you got the right fork to begin with? You mentioned Lynsky said the bike easily fits 28mm tires but assuming the picture is an accurate image of reality that clearly isn't the case unless those tires are way oversized. So gotta wonder if that's the fork that's intended for that bike because I can't image them thinking they'd get away with saying it easily fits 28mm when that so clearly isn't true.

Edit: I googled Jack Brown tires and only see them available in 33.3mm. Perhaps you don't actually have 28mm tires and that's why it's so tight?


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Jay Strongbow said:


> First off, cool thread. I missed it back then. I'm in the process of getting a steel frame that I choose everything else for from a local shop so can kind of relate.
> 
> Regarding the fork. Yes changing for color seems pointless when you consider you could get a pro paint job for much less (I think).....but it might be worth it for tire clearance.
> 
> ...


I wondered that, too, but I know it's the Lynskey Sport carbon fork on the bike which I think was an option if I had bought the full build from Lynskey. I could be wrong, though. Maybe they're assuming an ENVE fork option. 

The tires in the picture are actually Panaracer Ruffy Tuffys and they're labeled 28s. I haven't put calipers to them to get an actual width, though. 

The rims might be an issue. I'm running Velocity Deep Vs. Maybe a slightly wider rim would spread the tire out a bit more and give a little more clearance? Even so, though, I don't think 28s would ever be comfortable.

I see now that the new sport options on the Lynskey site lists 25 for the tire size.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

The tight tolerance of the Ruffy Tuffys got me thinking 25s might be a better option long-term.










So I decided to go crazy/stupid and try a set of ThickSlick 25s in "white". I say "white" because they were white online when I ordered them. They were white in the box when they arrived. They stayed white when I mounted them. By the end of the driveway, though... they were "white" the way the Apex brake hoods are "white". By the end of the first ride on sloppy snow melt roads it was clear they would never be white again. But I figure everything looks fine when its rolling.

Anywho, the clearance for the forks is much better.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Wondered if the white tires and white rims might cancel each other out. I had a set of H. Plus Sons Archetypes in black. I think I might like it better.











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## kjdhawkhill (Jan 29, 2011)

I'm not one for white tape, saddles or hoods, but white rubber on black rims look good. 

I've not had any of the issues of decals peeling on my sportive, but maybe they bond better on the unbrushed/satin frame I have vs the more polished frames.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

kjdhawkhill said:


> I'm not one for white tape, saddles or hoods, but white rubber on black rims look good.
> 
> I've not had any of the issues of decals peeling on my sportive, but maybe they bond better on the unbrushed/satin frame I have vs the more polished frames.
> 
> ...


It's odd with the decals. They aren't peeling, they're cracking. It's like the material is somehow brittle. It cracks and then starts to flake off over time. I'm about to take a ScotchBrite to it all and let the head badge do the talking. 


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## kjdhawkhill (Jan 29, 2011)

Opus51569 said:


> It's odd with the decals. They aren't peeling, they're cracking. It's like the material is somehow brittle. It cracks and then starts to flake off over time. I'm about to take a ScotchBrite to it all and let the head badge do the talking.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That is odd. I'd ride it until I couldn't stand it. But I also appreciate patina and honorably earned scratches and scars. So that could be a while. 


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## Mr_Clean (Feb 12, 2012)

That's the nice thing about decals. When they flake off, just strip them all off and go naked. Nice and clean. I'm pretty much stuck with 3D decals on my r240. Oh well.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Pumpkin spice...



















The pedals took a while to find. Now I need some orange spacers and a seat post clamp.

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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Better.










It's the little things. Now, if only Brooks made a B-17 in orange...  Maybe Honey Brown is orange enough?


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## Tachycardic (Mar 31, 2013)

Nice! Bitex makes white hubs (RAR12) that would go well with your color scheme. Cheap and reliable.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

After a particularly humid ride, I returned home to discover that I had, literally sweated through my saddle. The honey brown B-17 looked like dark brown. It returned mostly to its old color once it dried, but it got me thinking about something a little more water resistant. So, I decided to try a Brooks Cambium. I ordered a C-19 in Natural.










It promises to need no adjustments nor breaking in and to be waterproof. We’ll see.

Otherwise, the Peloton continues to be remarkably unremarkable. It’s just a beautifully smooth and comfortable bike every time I ride.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

I have a little over 2000 miles on the Peloton now and the core of the bike is still flawless.

Unfortunately, the Stronglight chainring developed a bend in it. I bent it back, but after a few rides, it bent again, so it was time for something new. Given the relatively flat roads I ride, I find myself mostly either in the small ring and the bottom of the cassette, or the big ring nearer the top of the cassette. And with the New Albion build, I’ve been enjoying the simplicity of the 1X. Sooo, I took the opportunity to lose the front derailleur and cable, install a 40t steel single ring up front, and make the Peloton a 1X10.










The first shakeout ride today went well. It is quiet and smooth. It still has all the gears I need and the 40t ring was right in the middle of the 46/34 I had on there previously.

An update on the Brooks saddle... I wouldn’t recommend it. Despite the claim of being waterproof, the fabric coating stains. The fact that there’s no break-in period also means the saddle doesn’t conform like leather does. So, if it’s uncomfortable, it will stay uncomfortable. I’ve found that different clothing (chamois thickness) makes a big difference. I sold the honey brown B-17 and now I’m regretting that decision. Oh well, live and learn.


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## BelgianHammer (Apr 10, 2012)

Opus51569 said:


> I have a little over 2000 miles on the Peloton now and the core of the bike is still flawless.
> 
> Unfortunately, the Stronglight chainring developed a bend in it. I bent it back, but after a few rides, it bent again, so it was time for something new. Given the relatively flat roads I ride, I find myself mostly either in the small ring and the bottom of the cassette, or the big ring nearer the top of the cassette. And with the New Albion build, I’ve been enjoying the simplicity of the 1X. Sooo, I took the opportunity to lose the front derailleur and cable, install a 40t steel single ring up front, and make the Peloton a 1X10.
> 
> ...


Hi Opus51569,

I really enjoyed taking time and reading through this entire thread. Not even sure how I missed it all these years.

First off, I love seeing how the bike has changed with you. The little details are great. On this current iteration, all the small touches, from the stem spacer coloring, to the pedals, to the seat bag, to the rear derailleur cable, it all is just sublime and screams about someone who takes care of their bikes (which is usually a good harbinger of how the approach life too :thumbsup: )

Secondly, I am amazed at how my Habanero Ti is setup exactly like yours, dimensions-wise, stem-wise and even seat wise. Only thing is, the Haby (a 2005) was/is significantly cheaper ti frame than a Lynsky, for good reason, because the Lynsky's beautiful welds, craftsmenship and finish are beautiful. That Haby is a functional, affordable Ti, but the Lynsky adds some lovely aspects. Anyhow, my Haby is all Ti, with burnt orange lettering. So, I look at your bike and I think, wow, that is what those color tires would like, or different rims (I built up some H Plus Sons, smoked grey color, rims with old, but still smooth Ulterga 9-10spd hubs).

Third thing: can I ask a question about the Brooks? I've a B-17 sitting in the closet, brand new, beautiful tan color. Have yet to bring myself to put it on the Haby. Main reason: it rains something serious in Belgium, and I keep fearing despite taking care of the seat, that I'll ruin it. So, I've recently been wondering about the Brooks Cambrium---specifically the B-15. But that cover top Brooks put on those things. I know you mentioned yours faded, but can I ask: does that surface on your Cambrium cause any rubbing/chaffing present on your cycling shorts? It looks rough, like it would slowly eat away shorts material, especially for people (like me) where our cycling gait tracks close, in fact brushes, the seat tip thousands of times a ride.


Thank you for any replies, and, once again, great bike. Your Lynskey and the details on it are beautiful.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

BelgianHammer said:


> Hi Opus51569,
> 
> I really enjoyed taking time and reading through this entire thread. Not even sure how I missed it all these years.
> 
> ...


Thanks, BelgianHammer. You should post a pic of your Haby (and I dig the fact that when I type "Haby", auto-correct wants to make it "Baby")

To answer your question about the Brooks. I wouldn't say the material is rough, but it definitely holds you in place as you ride. With the leather B-17 I could adjust my position as I rode by simply sliding fore or aft. With the Cambium, there is no sliding. You have to lift off the saddle, reposition, and sit down again. But I don't get the sense that the material is rough enough to damage your shorts or create any excess chafing.

For a rain bike, I think I'd go with a Cambium if you find it comfortable.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Well, I've taken the plunge and removed the shifter paddle for the absent front derailleur. I'm committed to the 1X10 now.

I'm still running the 40t ring up front, but today I've been experimenting with different cogs to make the best cassette for my kind of riding. I've put together a 12/30 that's basically a corncob with a few dump-out gears to ward against unexpected headwinds.

12/13/14/15/16/17/19/22/26/30 

We'll see how it goes.

Update: Not so well. After trying a few different permutations, I’ve settled on:

12/13/15/16/17/19/21/23/26/30

I’ll try a shake-out ride tomorrow to see if it’s running better.

Update #2: Success. Fairly smooth through the gears. No ratcheting in 12 or 30. Not bad for an ersatz 1X10. And I decided to swap the C-19 for the Honey B-17 it had previously.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Update.

It's been a while and some changes are currently in store for the Peloton.

I finished out this year with the ersatz 1X10 gearing I cobbled together. It has worked well enough that I've decided to take the plunge and go with a dedicated 1X11 road setup. Doing so, though, is not just going to mean a change in function, it will be a big aesthetic change as well. I've always liked the white derailleur, post, stem, brakes and brake hoods. Those will all be switching to black. I'm keeping the orange accent bits, though.

Step 1: I ordered a new rear wheel from prowheelbuilder.com. I've ordered wheel sets from them in the past and they've always been well built. I stuck with the H Plus Son Archetype rim but went up to a 36h since it's on the rear. For the hub I'm sticking with the Shimano 105 as well, but obviously jumping up to an 11sp free hub.

Step 2: I swapped out the white WTB Thickslick tires for a good old set of Panaracer Paselas and bumped up from 25mm to 28mm in the process. I liked the look of the Thickslick's on the bike but the tires themselves were not particularly durable and are getting harder to find in white.

Step 3: I ordered a SRAM PG1130 11sp cassette (11-36) and a PG1130 chain.

Step 4: SRAM Apex brakes. I could have kept the Apex brakes that were on the bike, but if I'm making a color change these change too.

Step 5: SRAM Apex 1 levers for mechanical 1X. These are due to arrive soon.

Step 6: SRAM Apex 1 rear derailleur. It's next on my list but will probably have to wait until after the finances recover from the Holidays.

Step 7: For the crankset, I stumbled into a really nice piece of luck. I won a crankset from ROTOR as a prize for one of those enter-your-email-address-and-win deals from BikeRumor.com. ROTOR gave me the option of an Aldhu crank with an oval 1X chainring... and I said "Yes, please."  So it is on it's way. I've always been curious about oval rings and now I'll get my chance to try it.

Step 8: Will be the fiddly bits: bar tape, brake pads, cables and housing, etc.


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## fronesis (Jan 22, 2014)

Nice bike. And cool thread. 

You will love the 1x11. 

One recommendation: when you install the new groupset, please shorten the rear derailleur cable housing - on your current setup it is way too long.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

After a bit of back and forth, the goodies from ROTOR arrived.










BSA30 bottom bracket
ROTOR 30mm Road axle
Aldhu crank arms
1X Q ring (44t)

The install was straight-forward. The chainring fits in notches directly on the axle (no spider) so you can fine tune the position of the oval in relation to the crank arm. Tightening the crank arm then compresses the ring into place. There is a binder nut on the NDS crank arm that sets the pre-load for the bearing and eliminates any play. It’s pretty slick, actually.










Bars and levers are on. I took a wire wheel to the visible center of the bars to expose the aluminum. The white portion will eventually be covered by fizik orange tape.

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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

All derailleured, cabled, taped and ready for a test ride once the snow stops flying  So, it’s gratuitous garage pics in the meantime.










On the wishlist are some orange anodized skewers, a Ritchey post and stem. But it’s ready to go as-is and I’m looking forward to trying out the oval chainring.

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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Finally able to get out on the bike for a bit in it’s current incarnation:










Found some anodized orange skewers and went back to the black B17 saddle now that most of the components are black.

So what’s the ROTOR setup like? For anyone who’s never ridden with an oval chainring, it’s interesting. The variation in the oval ring makes me more aware of my cadence. I can feel the rhythm of each revolution as I pedal as opposed to a round chainring which feels more like perpetual motion. I see the appeal for riders who want to set tempo. We’ll see what happens long term.










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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Now that I have a few hundred more miles into the upgrades...

I had a ticking sound recently that got progressively worse. It happened generally out of the saddle when putting more stress on the cranks from a standing stop. Visual inspections didn't show any usual suspects. I tried removing any extraneous bits (saddle bag, bottles, etc.) to make sure they weren't the problem. I checked the skewer tightness. You know the drill.

With no luck from the easy stuff, I decided it was time to run it down. I removed and re-greased the pedals, pulled the cranks and re-greased there as well. Then I encountered an issue. With the ROTOR BSA30 bottom bracket I received a special socket for installing it. The socket, however, is made of plastic. It worked okay for installing the bottom bracket and I was able to get the 40nm necessary. When I tried to use the socket to remove the bottom bracket so that I could re-grease it, the socket slipped. When it did it instantly stripped some of the plastic teeth in the socket. This made it useless. Long story short, the bottom bracket is staying where it is until I get a metal socket to be able to take it off.

The good news is that I think the issue with the click was in the cranks. The NDS crank uses a threaded collar that you turn to take out the play in the bottom bracket. Once you get the correct tension, there is a bolt that you tighten to lock the collar in place on the thread and the tension is set. The collar needed to be tightened. The spec calls for 1nm but I think I erred on the side of caution when I initially installed and didn't get it quite tight enough. So, it got re-greased and tightened and, in the 50 miles I've put on it since then, no more clicking.

Another thing I've noticed is the amount of noise I'm getting from the oval 1X Q-Ring. I'm guessing this is partly due to mixing a ROTOR crank and ring with an SRAM chain, derailleur and cassette. In the middle of the cassette, it's relatively quiet as the chain line is straight. But it gets noticeably louder on the high and low end and it comes from the chainring. I don't know if this is something that will "break in" over time and maybe get better, or if it's just going to be the sound the drivetrain makes. By comparison, the Apex 1X on my other bike is quiet as a mouse.

UPDATE: I came across a diagram that showed the vertical distance between the upper pulley and the biggest cog should be 12-14mm. I had thought setting the B screw meant making sure the chain didn’t scrape against the cogs as you shifted to the next largest cog. Long story short, I tried the 12-14mm setting and the drivetrain is much quieter at both ends of the cassette. Shifting doesn’t seem to be affected.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Still going strong.










Finally wore down the Panaracer Paselas. 1500 miles, down to the threads, but not a single flat. Decided to replace them with some oldies, but goodies, the 28mm Conti Gatorskins.


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