# New to me S-Works 2010 questions



## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

*New to me S-Works 2010 questions ( now test ride)*

Just bought a used frame, and now I need to build it up. It is frame and fork,headset never built. I am not much of a roadie so I am not up on anything road bike. I am riding a 1995 Trek 5500 issued to the USCF team. I have raced track for 25 years (sprints) and only used road bikes to supplement training. So I have a few questions

1. It is a OS BB30 , is that the same as BB30. And what BB would you recommend, how about cranks. I have Ultrega on my Trek and mights migrate some parts over (brakes). But if it were you?
I am considering some DA F&R Shifters but cranks I don't know. Are they BB30 compatible. Again S-works stuff may work
2. Bars and stem-I thought of going with all S-Works stuff but Stiffness is necessary, I am 6-1 230lbs so again your recommendations. I like classic drops and maybe flat tops. I need a 110-120 stem with 8-12 rise. This may change as I get things set up. 
3. Seat- I may have to try a few, I have a big ass
4. Wheels, I have Zip 404's,900 and Corimas' for the track, but even though I could use the Zips, they are only to race on track. Again, my weight might be a factor but 1000-1500would be my budget, this will be all the time wheels.

Thanks, S-Works fans


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## NealH (May 2, 2004)

The new, or current, S-Works crankset is pretty nice. I would recommend this crank and then outfit the rest of it with DA. Its solid and works well. I tried Sram but just didn't like it - noisy and imprecise. 

FSA, 3T, Zipp and Deda are the bar leaders - with FSA and 3T often in the limelight when discussing bars. Research them, look them over, try if you can, and pick from one of these manufactures. Start here. 

Its virtually impossible to predict what saddle will work the best for you however, being a bit heavy and large I would start with the Selle Italia Max Flite Gel Flow. Many big guys love this saddle, and small guys too. Its a good start.

The Shimano DA 7850-24CL wheels are well conceived and built, lightweight, have no weight limit, and incorporate outstanding hubs. Put on 25 mm tires (Conti GP 4000 or Vittoria CX EVO), pump them to 80 lbs and you will have nice riding and performing wheels. Frankly, they are standout performers. You can get them at Chain Reaction, right here or any of a number of other places.


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## wetpaint (Oct 12, 2008)

OSBB=BB30, All of your components will swap over fine. But, to use non BB30 cranks, you'll need an adapter like this http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/785/54/


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## ukbloke (Sep 1, 2007)

This frame/BB/crank compatibility chart was originally posted by goneskiian and is very helpful.


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

thanks for the reply, after much reading I finally grasp the BB30. Shame Shimano has not taken this road. I am looking at Sram Red cranks or FSA, maybe S-works if I can find them.


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

I may have to go with the adapter, any negatives on this
Is there a picticular year and model S-works crankset I need


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## roadie01 (Apr 13, 2010)

I would go with the S-Works crank, I rode with one for several years with no issues. The Specialized crank is light, stiff, and just looks nice. I'm currently on a Sram Red Crank and so far no issues have come up in the few short lunch rides I've done.


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

I am leaning that way, I found out I can not use my set of Ultegra, without using a BMX adapter. I went and looked at one and decided not to go that route. I could by a new DA groupset and use the Wheels adapter but at one point the money trail stops.

I would really like all S-works stuff on the bike, it looks really good and better for resale should I do that

Are these the correct cranks and what do you guys think they are worth?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170562110887&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT


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## NealH (May 2, 2004)

As the S-Works crank set evolved, Specialized made at least two iterations of crank arms, and 3 or 4 iterations of the rings. With each iteration there is a stiffer crank and better shifting rings. If you can't afford a new one, then put you bike in the attic and save money until you have enough to buy a new one. I don't recommend buying a used one especially when the seller will not reveal which iteration he has.


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## cartmaniac (Jun 6, 2007)

I would go with the Red BB30 crank. I have the S-Works crank, and I think it is really cool. But the rings suck. They wore out quickly, and shifted like crap. I got Red rings for it a year ago, and it is great now.

Adapter for non-BB30 --- lame. Seems like a step backwards, technologically. But seriously, get whatever you can get for a good price. It won't be that big of a deal either way.


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

*I goofed*

I screwed up and did not read the fine print, it was a english68 BB not a BB30. That's what I get for not reading the details. Now I have a heavier and flimsy bike that I am stuck with. :mad2: 

I am going to build it out at this point with Dura Ace everything, not sure about bars or stem, will use mine until I find another set. I am also looking at a set of Dura Ace pedals in carbon.


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## ukbloke (Sep 1, 2007)

wagge said:


> I screwed up and did not read the fine print, it was a english68 BB not a BB30. That's what I get for not reading the details. Now I have a heavier and flimsy bike that I am stuck with. :mad2:


Don't beat yourself up over this! This is the most common BB standard on the planet for modern road bikes. Unless you have the instantaneous torque and power output of a Fabian, Tom or Thor you will not have any problems with BB stiffness. The weight penalty is merely a few ounces.



> I am going to build it out at this point with Dura Ace everything, not sure about bars or stem, will use mine until I find another set. I am also looking at a set of Dura Ace pedals in carbon.


Fine choices.


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## roadie01 (Apr 13, 2010)

I went from a 2006 S-Works Tarmac SL with the BB30 and S-Works cranks. Which I thought was a great set up although the creaking that would develop after a few thousand miles was anoying. The good news is it only creaked when standing and really cranking on the bottom braket.

Post accident I'm on a 2009 S-Works SL2 with standard 68 MM bottom bracket and Red Crank. I've only had a chance to ride this new beauty a couple of times but it's been like riding a bike I've ridden for years. No issues with the Red Crank so far, the shifting up front is better than the S-Works.


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## roadie01 (Apr 13, 2010)

roadie01 said:


> I went from a 2006 S-Works Tarmac SL with the BB30 and S-Works cranks. Which I thought was a great set up although the creaking that would develop after a few thousand miles was anoying. The good news is it only creaked when standing and really cranking on the bottom braket.
> 
> Post accident I'm on a 2009 S-Works SL2 with standard 68 MM bottom bracket and Red Crank. I've only had a chance to ride this new beauty a couple of times but it's been like riding a bike I've ridden for years. No issues with the Red Crank so far, the shifting up front is better than the S-Works.



I forgot to mention, the old "broken" bike was 15.2 pounds with bottle cages and pedals, the new "stealth" bike is 15.01 pounds with bottle cages and pedals.


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

Its now at the shop being built, ready on Wednesday. I am not sure about the fit as its different from my trek 5500, so I will test the stem length and will probably have a bunch of steerer tube left over even with a 8 deg rise stem. I have plenty of spacers.

As far as cable color and bar tape, I have a black seat so black bar tape and maybe white cables ?

I will post a pic when finished


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## wagge (Sep 15, 2010)

*Ride report*

:thumbsup: 
Just went out on a 25m test ride, good thing I brought my allen set, it was needed. After several adjustment I am pretty happy with the position on the bike, somewhat similar to my trek 5500. 

My first impression was I could feel the road in a good way, (the trek was more like dead wood), and response was instant. There was little flex in the BB or upper frame, this made acceleration and hills ( inclines) snappier. The bike weighed in at 17lbs but the Rolf vector comps weigh alot, BUT I have jumped so many curbs, even ones at 12-18" along with my little 6'1 230 frame, they are still running true. I doubt many wheels can do that.

Another positive is the steering is quicker but more stable, I was riding with no hands and as the cold front approaches we are have gust to 20mph this morning( don't try that at home)

I did not get to have any high speed descents but I am positive it will be rock steady with no frame flex.

The Dura Ace group was precise, quite, positive shift under load, overall what I expected.
The only negative I could find was the ride was a little harsh, but this is expected coming from the carbon of '95 to today's design. The larger bumps were not much different just the sharp edges were two slabs meet and buckle. I really do not plan on century's or all day rides, mainly its to supplement track racing and training, so I will pick my roads.
I might look at carbon wheels 303's or something similar which will reduce the harshness some, however I will not be jumping curbs and whatnot's. I also will add a power tap to my setup.


Overall very pleased and kudos to Juan Solo bike shop as he did a nice job setting it up. I spent a total of 3500.00, Frame/7900 Group/Carbon bars/Ceramic BB/bike build. Thanks to Garth Blackburn for loaning me his Trek frame 10 years ago, now I can give it back 

Some things I might change

Pedals- Dura Ace Carbon
maybe a new seat
stem and bars ( bars are not that stiff, as I am a track sprinter) for others it might be fine
I would like the s-works stem
wheels and power tap
maybe a little pimping on accessories ( chainring bolts, cable housing, Titanium skewers) 

Thanks for your help guy's


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