# Suggestions for rear rack, frame w/out eyelets



## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Any recommendations for a relatively inexpensive rear rack that will fit a frame without eyelets? I'm currently using a rack that clamps onto the seatpost, but it is heavy, ugly and sits up so high that it's hard to swing my leg over the pack.

I've got an inexpensive Performance Transit rack on my mountain bike, but it attaches to eyelets and I don't have any adaptors for it. I'm looking for something that would include adaptors so it could easily fit a standard steel road bike frame. My frame is a DeBernardi with fairly typical Italian geometry (73ish seat post angle), relatively short chain stays, lots of chrome, and a nice paint job that I don't want to mess up.

I don't plan to use the rack for touring or carrying panniers, just for commuting using a rectangular bag that sits on top of the rack. So, I don't need one of the expensive touring racks, but something that costs less than $50 and is sturdy, nice looking, polished aluminum in color.


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## Geet (Sep 17, 2004)

I use an Axiom Odysee Rear Suspension Rack. It would probably work well for you.

http://www.axiomgear.com/racks_suspension/odyssee_rear_suspension.php

The lower mount point is via the skewer, and the upper mount point is to the seat stay with the included clamps. The clamp that mounts to the seat stay is all rubberized/plasticated and should protect your paint. I paid around $50 CDN so it should be even less in the US.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

Bor Yueh. I bought one of these from Nashbar--though just about anything would do. My son wanted to be able to carry his backpack to school, and his bike ('85 Trek 560--short stays) had no eyelets.

So, some foam rubber/plastic, 4 P-clamps, 4 sets of bolts and nylock nuts later, the rack was on. I used the foam to fatten the lower end of the seatstays and then wrapped the P-clamps around so that the hole was at the rear (just above the dropouts) and secured the bottom of the rack there. Then I put another P-clamp (with foam) on each seatstay near the top, leveled the rack and adjusted the stay extensions on the rack, tightened eveything up, and it's been working for a couple of months.

I'm quite confident that this arrangement could carry panniers if necessary.


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## StageHand (Dec 27, 2002)

You can get rubber coated p-clamps at home depot (or your favorite hardware store) for about $2 for a package of 4 or so. You'll need to find nuts that match the current bolts, but your total hardware cost should be less than $5.


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## mass_biker (Mar 26, 2002)

*Nashbar (Bor Yueh?)*

Ditto the Nashbar rack. I don't have rack eyelets and need to support two pretty large panniers on the rear (as well as carry my U lock on top of the rack). I used the "P" clamps to affix it to the frame. It is holding up quite nicely. It's also nice because it has the mounting hole for a B&M taillight which I power from my front Schmidt hub.

By the way, this works just fine for my converted Bianchi (similar geometry to your DeBernardi I would guess).

I was tempted by the lovely Tubus racks but for my daily commuter, this works just fine.

I did spring for a Nitto "mini" rack for the front (from Rivendell). This supports my front basket which is ziptied in place.


M_B


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## BoulderGeek (Sep 19, 2005)

Tarwheel, see the updated post in my thread you posted in yesterday.

The Performance rack came with the padded clips for stay mounting. Everything included, and $14.95 - 15% right now.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

*I think...*



BoulderGeek said:


> Tarwheel, see the updated post in my thread you posted in yesterday.
> 
> The Performance rack came with the padded clips for stay mounting. Everything included, and $14.95 - 15% right now.


I think the OP has a bigger problem than most of us realize--not only does he lack eyelets at the TOP of the rack (like many of us--my rack is now connected to the brake bolt, but all racks can do that), he lacks them at the dropouts as well. In my earlier post, I was pointing out that you can use P-clips down there as well, and I _have_ done this and know that it works.

I'd guess that 60-75% of all racks use P-clips at the top...


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## BoulderGeek (Sep 19, 2005)

If you look at my pic, you'll see that there are P-Clips at the top _and_ bottom. My frame has no bosses or eyelets for any racks, whatsoever.

100% P-clip attachment. PITA to remove and re-attach. But, seems to be fine, no sway, rattle or centering problems.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Thanks for the comments. Looks like I can make my existing rack work with some extra fittings. I searched around in my garage and found some P fittings that undoubtedly came with my Performance rack. That rack is now on my mountain bike, but I can easily take it off and switch to my DeBernardi. The one potential problem is interference with the rear brake. I won't know until I actually see how it fits, but from a visual inspection it looked like the brackets that attach the top of the rack to the frame might have trouble clearing the brake cable.

In searching around various web site, the rear rack that looked most adaptable was one of the Nitto models sold by Rivendell, but it costs about $90. That might be money well spent if I planned to do some touring, but I am just looking for a rack to hold a trunk pack for commuting, with no heavy loads -- just my lunch, a few extra clothes.

Does anyone have any closeup photos they could post showing connections between their racks and frames that don't have fittings?


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## BoulderGeek (Sep 19, 2005)

Here you go.

I had to try a bunch of different configurations before I found one that didn't interfere with the brake cable, as well.

No interference here.

The background is really sharp and in focus. Sorry the subject isn't. :-/


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## DrRoebuck (May 10, 2004)

If you're still stuck, you might want to contact Wayne at the Touring Store. I just bought a Tubus Cargo from him and he was amazingly helpful.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

If you have problems with brake interference, look for a 3-legged rack. These have the upper strut connect in the middle and are supported by the rear brake bolt instead of by brazed on fittings or P-clamps. Older racks tend to have this configuration; I came across a nice Jim Blackburn that works this way


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I picked up some P clamps at Home Depot and managed to get my Performance Transit rack installed without too much trouble. It's not as clean looking as a frame with eyelets, but not bad either. The rubber coated clamps should also prevent my frame from getting marred. The rack looks much better than the seatpost clamp model I had been using, and the load (trunk rack) sits much lower. I also was able to attached a rear tail light to rack, which should improve my visibility in traffic.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

*Excellent!*

I think you'll find it *works* a lot better...and it will be nice to have the extra lighting.


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