# brake calipers not staying centered. How to fix?



## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

So I am very new to road cycling. I live in South Korea and I bought a bike online here that looked decent to the eye. I doubt if anyone has heard of the bike brand, but it is a samchully rc1000 (Korean brand)

I bouht it for about $180 online and I am planning on making a trip across the country next month. Its about a 500km trip in 4 days. I am trying to get everything dialed i correctly right now and I am having some troule with the brakes. It seem that the calipers will not stay centered on the wheel. Once I pull the brake levers, one of them will stay very close (touching) the rim. 

Also, the calipers work by only one of them pinching until it hits the wheel and stops which causes the other side to then engage. Is this the normal way for them to work. In my past BMX days I seem to remember both sided pinching simultaneously.

Pictures to come


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

here is a picture


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Yours is a sidepull caliper. The instructions below should help you with adjustment.

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Sidepull Brake Service


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

PJ352 provided you with a good link.

Also, those 2 silver nuts at the center of the pivot can be slightly tight. Follow the directions in the Park Tool link to adjust the arms so they operate freely but without any slop in the pivot.

Lastly, the cable housing on that section of run that attaches to the brake caliper can be too long, pushing the caliper off-center. You photo doesn't show the housing but you should find some photos of other bikes and compare, shortening the housing if necessary.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

THanks for the link. I had come across that when I was searching for an answer and I have followed it to the best of my ability. I think I have gotten them to center a little bit, but they are still horrible brakes IMO. I think they are probably the cheapest of the cheap and just don't have much braking power. I can come nowhere close to locking up the wheel and skidding, and the nuts on the front have to be pretty loose, so loose that when the brakes engage, they are pulled forward by the force of the wheel.

I might get some help from some new brake pads, but I'm not sure. I'll give these brake s a little longer to see if they will work for me. In the meantime, any suggestions for a fairly cheap set of brakes with good performance?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I agree with your assessment of those types of brakes. Old technology.

Rather than buy new pads, I'd put the money towards a dual pivot design - will be a vast improvement.

Here's an example, but there are others:
Nashbar Caliper Road Bike Brakeset - Bike Rim Brakes


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

Oh wow, it looks like those brakes are about (~$40 (39,000KRW)) for the pair? That seems pretty cheap from the other ones I have been looking at. I think I will take a look around at some local shops here and then maybe buy those if I can't find anything comparable. 

In your opinion, do you think I will be good (at least satisfied) with any old dual pivot brake because of the superior mechanism?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> Oh wow, it looks like those brakes are about (~$40 (39,000KRW)) for the pair? That seems pretty cheap from the other ones I have been looking at. I think I will take a look around at some local shops here and then maybe buy those if I can't find anything comparable.
> 
> In your opinion, do you think I will be good (at least satisfied) with any old dual pivot brake because of the superior mechanism?


Yes, ~$39 for the pair, and Nashbar has 20% sales quite often. Read the reviews. They're pretty good. 

Yes, I think current dual pivot designs are all comparable. Finish, a level of refinement and weight differences separate cheaper from expensive. 

Where you'll see improved performance is with upgraded pads (KoolStops Salmons, for one), but wait till you upgrade your brakes. You may not need them right away.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

OK good to know, i'll poke around in some of the shops here and see if I can find some dual pivots around the same price. Not likely with my terrible Korean but I'll give it a shot.


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## QuattroCreep (Nov 30, 2009)

Can you post a picture of the front brake? Some times the rear brake will be single pivot and the front will be dual pivot. Nothing wrong with that set up. My campy record brakes are a dual, single set up and they brake fine.

The reason the brakes are tipping to the side is pressure from the brake cable housing pushing down on the brake caliper arm. To adjust you will need a hex wrench(alen key) most likely 5mm and a spanner most likely 10-13mm. Loosen the brake caliper just a little using the 5mm hex wrench from behind the brake bridge on the frame. Then between the caliper and the brake bridge or on the front of the caliper there should be space to fit a wrench-spanner. Find one that fits and use it to center the brake pads, I like to go a little past center because the cable housing will still move the brakes a little. When adjusted hold the wrench still and tighten the caliper back down. Make it nice and tight. 

Chances are your calipers are fine and your pads are no good. Look into upgrade pads. Kool stop salmon are a popular choice. 

Good luck.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

Ok so after many attempts at adjustment, I have concluded that they just need to be replaced. After doing some reading I came across some posts somewhere on the net that led me to believe that two dual pivots in the front and back might even be a little bit of overkill for braking?

What do you think? Should I go with a new dual pivot on both front and back? Just front? Just back?

I would just go buy one and try it out, but im afraid I will probably have to order online since the shops will want me to take out a mortgage in this country, so I would like to order one or two at the same time. 

Thanks for the input


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

They're usually sold in sets, so it can be hard to buy just one. If you did upgrade only one, it should certainly be the front -- that's the one that does the real work.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

I did see some of them sold in sets, but I found this on a local korean shopping site and I have to assume that for the price, they are going to be sold separately. 

~$24ish has to be the price for a single shimano sora br-3500 caliper, right?

I can read the page somewhat, but my korean isn't good enough to pick up all the small details.

G¸¶ÄÏ - [SHIMANO]½Ã¸¶³ë BR-3500 NEW SORA Ä¶¸®ÆÛ ºê·¹ÀÌÅ©£¯³»±¸...


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

inadvertant double post


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> Ok so after many attempts at adjustment, I have concluded that they just need to be replaced. *After doing some reading I came across some posts somewhere on the net that led me to believe that two dual pivots in the front and back might even be a little bit of overkill for braking?
> *
> What do you think? Should I go with a new dual pivot on both front and back? Just front? Just back?
> 
> ...


Overkill for braking? Not sure how someone would assess that their brakes stop them TOO fast. 

I'd go with a set of dual pivots. Don't have to be top of the line - or even a name brand. The dual pivot design is what's going to improve your braking.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

PJ352 said:


> Overkill for braking? Not sure how someone would assess that their brakes stop them TOO fast.
> 
> I'd go with a set of dual pivots. Don't have to be top of the line - or even a name brand. The dual pivot design is what's going to improve your braking.


OK, thanks I thought I was already going with the bottom of the barrel "as cheap as I could find" brakes. Do shops sell generic products that may come even cheaper than these shimano sora's?

I just bought my bike and I don't plan on having it for more than a year or so when I will most likely move back to the states, so I'm not trying to dump a whole lot of money into it, I just want something I feel safe with and the current "squishy as hell" sidepulls just aren't doing it for me.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> OK, thanks I thought I was already going with the bottom of the barrel "as cheap as I could find" brakes. Do shops sell generic products that may come even cheaper than these shimano sora's?
> 
> I just bought my bike and I don't plan on having it for more than a year or so when I will most likely move back to the states, so I'm not trying to dump a whole lot of money into it, I just want something I feel safe with and the current "squishy as hell" sidepulls just aren't doing it for me.


Call or ask around to see who might carry Tektro's. They're generally good quality and reasonably priced. If Nashbar's shipping charges are 'reasonable', theirs may be a good bet. 

I understand what you're saying about investing in this bike, but you do want to ride safe - and that means you need to have reliable brakes. I suggest you keep the OE brakes, and when you sell the bike, reinstall them.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> Call or ask around to see who might carry Tektro's. They're *generally good quality* and reasonably priced.


True, EXCEPT for their pads, which are not so good. With Koolstop pads, they work well. Tektro calipers and Koolstop pads together add up to a great improvement at a reasonable price.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JCavilia said:


> True, EXCEPT for their pads, which are not so good. With Koolstop pads, they work well. Tektro calipers and Koolstop pads together add up to a great improvement at a reasonable price.


Completely agree. One reviewer (Ghost Rider) states the same here:

Nashbar Caliper Road Bike Brakeset - Bike Rim Brakes


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

I went into three shops yesterday and only one of them had a single tektro caliper that he wanted to sell for $~20. I ended up buying those shimano br's that I posted in a link earlier for about $~23. 

I swear, three bike shops and only one of them has a single brake caliper for sale. I don't know if I will ever understand this country. They have a whole shop full of 50-100 bikes, some of them well over $1000, and not a brake caliper for sale anywhere. 

I had to go through the Korean site to buy them, because I wasn't sure if nashbar could get them out here in a reasonable time and a reasonable price. I need them within two weeks to go on my trip. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll try to post some pics and update when I install them.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If they're the Sora's you linked to in an earlier post, you should be fine. Let us know how you make out.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

:mad2: argh. Ive hit a snag because the hole in the forks is too small for the mounting nut to fit in. I dont have tool to drill it out.

Quick question. Is the bolt supposed to go all the way through the forks or is it supposed to make it most of the way and then the mounting nut going into the forks finishes the gap? Hope that makes sense


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> :mad2: argh. Ive hit a snag because the hole in the forks is too small for the mounting nut to fit in. I dont have tool to drill it out.
> 
> Quick question. Is the bolt supposed to go all the way through the forks or is it supposed to make it most of the way and then the mounting nut going into the forks finishes the gap? Hope that makes sense


The pivot bolt doesn't extent all the way through the crown, thus the use of the recessed nut.

This should clarify things a little:
Installing and Adjusting Caliper Brakes

Specifically, recessed mounting.

Find someone with a drill, or go to your LBS. They may have brake nuts that'll accommodate that fork.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

I dont see how any nut could work because the hole is jussst big enough for the bolt. I am thinking of seeking a drill but im doubtful since i tried installing the front caliper on the rear (advice from sheldon brown) and found the geometry for the brake pads is off (they are just a little too high even when they are adjusted all the way down. 

If there is some way to extend the pads a little i will hold onto them. Otherwise they are going back and ill just deal with the brakes i have.

So is there any way to extend the pads a little?


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

It's common to file the slot a little for the pads to reach the rim properly.

Don't give up on your existing brakes just yet.

Have you tried installing a brake washer between the pivot bolt and the frame?

Racers, including myself, used single pivot brakes successfully for decades; I see no reason why your brakes can't be made to operate properly.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> I dont see how any nut could work because the hole is jussst big enough for the bolt. I am thinking of seeking a drill but im doubtful since i tried installing the front caliper on the rear (advice from sheldon brown) and found the geometry for the brake pads is off (they are just a little too high even when they are adjusted all the way down.
> 
> If there is some way to extend the pads a little i will hold onto them. Otherwise they are going back and ill just deal with the brakes i have.
> 
> So is there any way to extend the pads a little?


The brake recess nut won't fit until you drill the hole larger - or get a longer pivot bolt that extends through, but that means disassembling your new brakes, so IMO the drill is the way to go. 

Don't reverse the brakes. 

The pad extension quandary has been addressed. 

As to the alternative (keeping your OE brakes), while that's certainly an option, I'd be surprised if you ever get them to work reliably. I've used single pivots for years as well, but they were of higher quality than what's on your bike (no offense). If you go this route, find a good wrench to work on them.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

So I ended up finding a drill, which is harder than usual in this country since no-one seems to have their own tools. I drilled out the hole in back and mounted the brakes on the fork/ I reluctantly swapped out and used my old pads, because the new ones sat too high even when extended all the way down. I still have to file the caliper a little bit because the brakes still sit a little high (finding somewhere to buy a file will be my next obstacle )

I can't get in to drill the back because of the downtube on the frame. I am thinking I will put the new pads from my new front brake on the old back brake, hope they work a little better and just return the new back brake I got. I could probably eventually find a way to get it on there, but i've spent way too much time on this project already so I think I am finished for now


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> So I ended up finding a drill, which is harder than usual in this country since no-one seems to have their own tools. I drilled out the hole in back and mounted the brakes on the fork/ I reluctantly swapped out and used my old pads, because the new ones sat too high even when extended all the way down. I still have to file the caliper a little bit because the brakes still sit a little high (finding somewhere to buy a file will be my next obstacle )
> 
> I can't get in to drill the back because of the downtube on the frame. I am thinking I will put the new pads from my new front brake on the old back brake, hope they work a little better and just return the new back brake I got. I could probably eventually find a way to get it on there, but i've spent way too much time on this project already so I think I am finished for now


If the drill bit fits inside the caliper slot holding the pads, you can use it to shave some material off. Just do a little at a time. 

All things considered, not a bad idea reassembling everything and assessing braking with new upfront, OE on the rear.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

PJ352 said:


> If the drill bit fits inside the caliper slot holding the pads, you can use it to shave some material off. Just do a little at a time.
> 
> All things considered, not a bad idea reassembling everything and assessing braking with new upfront, OE on the rear.


Yea I had thought about using a drill bit to do that, but I was unsure of how to hold the caliper while doing it. Again, I'm doing everything caveman style since I'm so far away from all my tools


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

deltaskelta said:


> Yea I had thought about using a drill bit to do that, but I was unsure of how to hold the caliper while doing it. Again, I'm doing everything caveman style since I'm so far away from all my tools


Understood. I'll play the idea man here and suggest that if the caliper is installed, you can hold the arm steady while 'filing' with the drill bit.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

Thanks for all your help everyone. I got the front caliper on and fitted correctly after a few hours with a round metal file. I just sent the other caliper back and i have the shimano pads on my rear sidepull and the old pads from the old front caliper on my sora front caliper because they sit a little lower on the caliper and i need all the clearance i can get.

The new caliper and pad upgrade in the back have made a big difference.

Now to try and chase down the clicking in my other thread


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Kodos to you for taking the time and having the patience to do this. 

Given that you did, in the future you may want to consider taking some time to file some material off the front caliper arms and fit Kool Stops. Should make a noticeable improvement in front braking.


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## deltaskelta (Apr 13, 2014)

To everyone who helped me get my bike ready....Here is a link to the post I posted in another forum here about my trip across Korea. Thanks for all your help.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/korea-seoul-busan-323249-post4621447.html#post4621447


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