# TRP Spyre vs Rival hydro vs TRP Hy/Rd



## trhoppe (Dec 21, 2009)

Halp. 

I'm looking at a fairly inexpensive CX bike for this year (Kona Private Jake) and it comes with the TRP Spyre brakes and Force levers. 

I've read good things about those, but how do they really compare to the Rival hydro or the TRP Hy/Rd? 

If I were to get a bike with the Rival hydro, it's going to be QUITE a bit more expensive. Like 4 figures more expensive. Not sure if it would be worth it. Would it? 

I could also at some point later, upgrade to the TRP Hy/Rd, which at only $200 total, could be a cheap upgrade at a later date. 

Thoughts?


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

The SpYres are fine....although I think the HY/RDs are a little better (but not worth the money to upgrade from the Spyres)
The new Rival Hydros are good.....but SRAM has a history with craptastic brakes.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

the mayor said:


> The SpYres are fine....although I think the HY/RDs are a little better (but not worth the money to upgrade from the Spyres)


Agree.


I upgraded BB7 Road to Spyre SLC, worth it IMO and that was on a two day old bike. Bought 8/2014, sold last month for anew bike with HY/RD front. 

Just the much lower profile of the SLC can be crucial. It was for me on my SL4 Roubaix, my heel was hitting and occasionally catching on the rear BB7 caliper being it was between the seat and chain stays on that particular bike. And being a road bike and not having mile long chain stays of say a 29er, my size 48 foot was too close.

Sold due to Custom steel bike. On this i used HY/RD front brake, lesser rear as I feel the expense of even the SLC Syrpe not warranted back there.

Data points, with SLCs I used 160 rotor, the new bike [on road just last SAT] I opted for a front 180mm and Rotor rear 160mm. Point being how much improvement is the bigger rotor VS the HY/RD? But seems to be more brake to spare now than with the SLCs. But it takes less hand noticeably no question.

I would use SLCs again with no question. In fact the HY/RD has some pad wiggle the SLC does not when not doing serious braking I find annoying. A friend also got a new bike with the HY/RD front and rear after I told him I ordered one for the front of my new build. So he had his LBS upgrade his being built to the HY/DR. Same pad wiggle, actually brought it back to have the LBS deal with it. that was before I installed mine.
mine does the same thing. Seems worse if too much slack in the cable adjustment FWIW.

It gives you the sense the head set is loose, but apparently the pad can move in the caliper a little. At least I think that is what is going on.


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## sagatme (Jul 28, 2015)

For Cyclocross use Spyre 160/140 are enough IMHO. I use with satisfation.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

Upgrade Spyre with XT Ice-Tech rotor, metallic Shimano pad, and compressionless housing.


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## twiggy (Mar 23, 2004)

Agreed. I bought a TCX with Spyres and fully expected to 'upgrade' to Hy/Rds....after a few weeks on the Spyres I decided it totally wasn't worth it...they Spyres perform nearly as well and thats money saved for other, more important, upgrades!


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## Corndog (Jan 18, 2006)

Hy/Rd are a total waste if buying aftermarket. 

If you're staying mechanical, the Spyre are the best out there (or the QBP house brand version that is pretty much a direct copy). 

If you're going Hydro, do yourself a favor and skip the Sram stuff and go with Shimano. The Shimano hydros with the RT86 (if you're using 6 bolt) or the XTR center lock rotor are in another league.


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