# keeping cable ends from fraying



## mercurymike (Jun 2, 2003)

I know this has probably been covered, sometimes I need to pull derailleur cable out of derailleur when disassembling bike. The frayed ends then make it almost impossible to get back in. The crimp ons are too big in diameter. Is it possible to solder the cable?


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*Superglue*

I never use the crimp on ends. Just dip the end of the cable into a tube of superglue a few times and let it dry. Just make sure you do not have a drop formed at the end so you can easily slide it in and out of the housing.


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## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

Keeping up with Junior said:


> I never use the crimp on ends. Just dip the end of the cable into a tube of superglue a few times and let it dry. Just make sure you do not have a drop formed at the end so you can easily slide it in and out of the housing.


Of course, dip it in glue before insertion into the housing. It doesn't hurt to put a drop of acetone on the area prior to application.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Agree - Superglue!


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

I mig weld the ends of my cables. Takes a bit of setup time but it's worth it.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

I use electrical "heat shrink". I get it at radio shack by the 3' strip. It works great, comes in different colors and dosent crush the end of the cable.


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## dwwheels (Feb 28, 2007)

A from Il said:


> I use electrical "heat shrink". I get it at radio shack by the 3' strip. It works great, comes in different colors and dosent crush the end of the cable.



You are just trying to get on the team bus with your shameless plug.


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## lancezneighbor (May 4, 2002)

Solder.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I solder mine. I stick the cable end in a small can of flux. I use a Bic lighter, which resides in my tool box, to heat the end of the cable, then melt a little solder on it. Immediately after I spit on my fingers and run them very quickly down the end of the cable to smooth the soldered part so that it's nice and smooth, and will fit nicely through the "eye."


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## Pieter (Oct 17, 2005)

Is the cable stainless steel? If so, solder will not stick.
I wind a helix of fine copper wire over the cable end, and then solder that.


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## mercurymike (Jun 2, 2003)

*solder*

I assume you use acid core solder.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Heat shrink works for me, it is available in a variety of colors too.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

I flame cut my wires, which whips the ends perfectly. 

Others I know use solder or super glue. If you use either, make sure the wire is clean and, if you know where the cut will be, it's easier to glue or solder the wire *before* cutting.

I never use crimps, or any external fastener for the same reason you suggest, I want the ability to field service the cables without fraying.


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## mercurymike (Jun 2, 2003)

How do you flame cut your wires? cutting torch?


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

mercurymike said:


> How do you flame cut your wires? cutting torch?


Small brazing point on oxy-acetelene. I make it a bit oxygen rich, and it works very quickly.

BTW- if you try this don't forget to watch the direction of the flame.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Pieter said:


> Is the cable stainless steel? If so, solder will not stick.
> I wind a helix of fine copper wire over the cable end, and then solder that.


silver solder will and does bond to stainless, I do it all the time


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

I have always used crimps without any problems. Just don't mash down on them so hard that you destroy the cable end. To remove them I lightly squeeze them in the opposite direction to open them up a bit and can sometimes even re use them. Takes a couple seconds but nothing compared to mig welding, soldering, gluing etc... And cut the cable an inch or so longer than required so if you do damage it just make a fresh cut and there you go.


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## Puchnuts (Oct 9, 2008)

I use Shimano cable-cutters and a cable-crimp. Never had a problem. And I try to fit a barrel-adjuster somewhere in the cable-line - so I don't have to worry about cable-stretch (settling) and the need to release the pinch-bolt and tighten it again. That, and using crappy cutters, are the chief causes of cables getting the "frizzies."


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## eddie m (Jul 6, 2002)

I solder mine. IT's more reliable than crazy glue and easier than all those torch or welding methods. The solder sticks fine, but I'm still using some 40 year old solder that I got from my father, but I don't think the solder that is currently available would work.

em


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

eddie m said:


> I solder mine. IT's more reliable than crazy glue and easier than all those torch or welding methods. The solder sticks fine, but I'm still using some 40 year old solder that I got from my father, but I don't think the solder that is currently available would work.
> 
> em


I will repeat, silver solder does work.


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## mercurymike (Jun 2, 2003)

*Thanks guys for all your responses*

Got a lot more info then I ever dreamed of. I have superglue, shrinkwrap, a torch I could use for cutting the cable, but in the end I bought some silver solder, flux and a small butane torch and soldered the end of my cable. I worked fast and slick. That's how I'm going to do it from now on. Thanks again everyone.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

mercurymike said:


> Got a lot more info then I ever dreamed of. I have superglue, shrinkwrap, a torch I could use for cutting the cable, but in the end I bought some silver solder, flux and a small butane torch and soldered the end of my cable. I worked fast and slick. That's how I'm going to do it from now on. Thanks again everyone.


glad we could help. I generally just use a good iron rather than flame but whatever works. The tip to solder cable before cutting is spot on. Also, sometimes the housings are lubed and
the oil or grease prevents the solder from flowing.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

I like how soldered ends look, but I`ve never tried it. I`m guessing you use flux designed for soldering electrical connections, but have a little doubt because I use a very different kind of flux for silver brazing stainless. Which is recomended? Also, I have no soldering iron, but I imagine a Harbor Freight cheapo would do fine. Does it need to be a big one for bike cables, or will a whimpy one do the job? That`s the only thing I can forsee using it on, so I don`t want to buy more than I need to.


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## russotto (Oct 3, 2005)

Regular lead-tin solder with rosin flux does not work for stainless cables. I haven't tried acid flux (for plumbing) with lead-tin solder.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Yes, regular rosin core tin/lead solder intended for electronics won't work. 

There are a number of solders and fluxes made for soldering stainless steel. If you google "soldering stainless steel", you'll find a number of options. If you use the correct solder and flux both the job is a snap.

BTW- be sure to solder them while they're still clean. If you get oil onto (into) the wire, it's over.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

I use this, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFS75&P=FR, I do not buy it from these people however, never heard of them before


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFS75&P=FR

I use this it works well, And it suggested soldering BEFORE you run through the housing or get dirty before, it is really MORE than a recommendation


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

Thanks. And the iron? Any cheapo 25W iron will work, or does it need more power to heat up cables?


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## Nessism (Feb 6, 2004)

Touch0Gray said:


> I use this, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFS75&P=FR, I do not buy it from these people however, never heard of them before



Tower Hobbies is reputable. No worry.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

any 25 W iron will work, Careful with the flux, it is VERY corrosive.

Another reason to solder before cutting and installing, so you can was and neutralize the ends well.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Nessism said:


> Tower Hobbies is reputable. No worry.


actually their price is way cheaper than I pay for the stuff from my jewelers supply houses.....about 1/2 !


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

Cool- I`m pretty sure I`ve seen that Staybrite stuff right on the shelf in my neighborhood hardware store. I`ve already got new cables and housing for our tandem and plans to recable it this week. I`ll try soldering them and see how it goes. 

Oh, one more- most of you suggest soldering before cutting and it`s also STRONGLY recomended to solder before pushing the wire through the housing. I guess you normally pull out the old cables and use them to measure the length. But in this case, I`m swapping a whole different cockpit onto the bike, so the new cables won`t be the same length as the old ones. Since it`ll be new housing this time maybe it doesn`t have lube in it and I can thread the cables through first, then solder and cut?


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

rodar y rodar said:


> Cool- I`m pretty sure I`ve seen that Staybrite stuff right on the shelf in my neighborhood hardware store. I`ve already got new cables and housing for our tandem and plans to recable it this week. I`ll try soldering them and see how it goes.
> 
> Oh, one more- most of you suggest soldering before cutting and it`s also STRONGLY recomended to solder before pushing the wire through the housing. I guess you normally pull out the old cables and use them to measure the length. But in this case, I`m swapping a whole different cockpit onto the bike, so the new cables won`t be the same length as the old ones. Since it`ll be new housing this time maybe it doesn`t have lube in it and I can thread the cables through first, then solder and cut?


best case is to solder first......but if you can't you can't


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

Well, I didn`t quite complete my mission, but I`m getting somewhere. No Staybrite at my hardware store after all (or anywhere else in town), and the stuff I did see that looked like it would do the trick would have been big bucks because the flux and the solder were both sold seperately in sizes enough for about five lifetimes worth of cables. But not all my bikes have stainless cables- I bummed an iron, a tin of flux, and some unmarked electrical solder from my brother and it worked great on six of the eight cables I tried. I have no idea why it refuses to stick to the other two, but I`m happy enough. I think I`ll order one of those convenience packs TOG linked to- since I don`t have any other uses in mind for that solder, a half ounce should last longer than I will. Maybe it`ll work on the mystery cables too.


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## Puchnuts (Oct 9, 2008)

Town Hobbies is sleezy as all get out. They require you to fill out their form - which appears to trap you into buying a discount for shipping - 1 or 2 years. The No Thankx is hidden at the bottom. And if you miss a little box - default is they sell your info to anyone with a dollar.

Sleeze!


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

rodar y rodar said:


> Well, I didn`t quite complete my mission, but I`m getting somewhere. No Staybrite at my hardware store after all (or anywhere else in town), and the stuff I did see that looked like it would do the trick would have been big bucks because the flux and the solder were both sold seperately in sizes enough for about five lifetimes worth of cables. But not all my bikes have stainless cables- I bummed an iron, a tin of flux, and some unmarked electrical solder from my brother and it worked great on six of the eight cables I tried. I have no idea why it refuses to stick to the other two, but I`m happy enough. I think I`ll order one of those convenience packs TOG linked to- since I don`t have any other uses in mind for that solder, a half ounce should last longer than I will. Maybe it`ll work on the mystery cables too.


mystery cables MAY have oil or grease contamination.....out of the box!


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Puchnuts said:


> Town Hobbies is sleezy as all get out. They require you to fill out their form - which appears to trap you into buying a discount for shipping - 1 or 2 years. The No Thankx is hidden at the bottom. And if you miss a little box - default is they sell your info to anyone with a dollar.
> 
> Sleeze!


Like I said I have never used them, I buy mine from my regular jeweler supply house. BTW I linked to TOWER hobby not TOWN...if that makes a difference

Rio Grande

http://www.riogrande.com/MemberArea...,+Torches&free_text|1249564458170=stay brite


will sell to the public I think, I use them periodically


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## jhamlin38 (Oct 29, 2005)

This is why I love this forum! Awesome information.


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## Tachymetres (Apr 18, 2004)

*Here's another way to do it...*

I cut my cables with a Dremel tool fitted with a cutoff wheel. Using the high speed setting, make sure the wheel spins in the same direction as the cable wind and gripping the end of the cable with a pliers (it gets hot) apply the wheel with light pressure until it cuts through. You will find that the cable gets red-hot during the cut, which welds the strands together. A drop of super glue or a crimped end cap finishes the job.


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## WizardTim (Aug 4, 2009)

Since no one else has mentioned this...

I use a blob of 5-minute epoxy when I don't have any crimp-on cable ends around. Use a toothpick to mix and apply.

I tend to glue my fingers together (or to the parts I'm working on) when I use superglue. The above method has proven safer for me.


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## WizardTim (Aug 4, 2009)

...and though I find soldering useful for building amplifiers I tend to keep the iron cold when I'm near my bike. Same reasoning as above. Safety first, you know.

-Tim (the guy with the burnt up, glued together fingers...)


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

WizardTim said:


> Since no one else has mentioned this...
> 
> I use a blob of 5-minute epoxy when I don't have any crimp-on cable ends around. Use a toothpick to mix and apply.
> 
> I tend to glue my fingers together (or to the parts I'm working on) when I use superglue. The above method has proven safer for me.


True enough, you gotta be REALLY slow to epoxy your fingers together


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## saddle tramp (Feb 22, 2006)

I'm resurrecting this thread cause the project bike is done and I'm ready to cut the new cables. In the past I've always used the crimp ons. I'm thinking soldering/epoxy/super glue looks better and aids in dis/reassembly.

So, 

I'm garnering there isn't any cheap off the shelf hdwr store/home depot/lowes/menards soldering/brazing goods?

Will a 60 watt soldering iron get it done?

Glue/epoxy the way to go?

talk amongst ourselves...


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

saddle tramp said:


> I'm resurrecting this thread cause the project bike is done and I'm ready to cut the new cables. In the past I've always used the crimp ons. I'm thinking soldering/epoxy/super glue looks better and aids in dis/reassembly.
> 
> So,
> 
> ...


I solder with a low temp fine solder from radio-crack. I find that one of those torch lighters works fine. Just heat the cable, solder and wipe off with a rag while the solder is still hot.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

60 watt will work fine, flame tends to get it dirty and too hot. just get a solder with silver content.


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## saddle tramp (Feb 22, 2006)

OK, finally trying to get time to do this "soldering/brazing". Now I've done a lot of refrig soldering with sil-fos 15 with no problem. Been soldering eletrical stuff for decades. Done some minor metal brazing with the sil-fos....

but getting this, albeit it's the old cable with maybe some light grease on it, to solder has got me whipped. I've spent around 25 bucks buying fluxes/solders at the local hdw. I've tried the light torch and iron this will not flow for me...

I'm an f-tard.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

You need to clean the cable completely.
Use Flux.
Use Silver Solder.
Regular Soldering Gun works fine.

I avoid all this by Super-Glue on Cable Tip, and Cut the cable so it is flush with the brake clamp or derailleur clamp.
No exposed cable tip to get snagged on or unravel. Makes cleanup and polishing around cable mounts easier.
Also helps my OCD, with NO exposed Cable ends.


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## saddle tramp (Feb 22, 2006)

Will the wifees nail polish remover (acetone?) suffice as "precleaner"?


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

saddle tramp said:


> Will the wifees nail polish remover (acetone?) suffice as "precleaner"?


probably not, most polish remover has oil in it so the nails don't get all dry and crunchy!


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