# Sticky  Post Fixed tips here...........



## Dave Hickey

Do you have a tip for the fixed fan?

Post it here...


----------



## ampastoral

tip one (the big one) don't stop pedalling.....EVER. this sounds like a no brainer. but forget what bike you're on once, and you'll never do it again. avoid the lesson.

frames: track frames work well, but can be hard to come by. geometry might also be a bit twitchy and brake holes may not exist. i prefer to look for older road frames with "virtually" horizontal dropouts. this widens your (ebay) choices and allows you to work in a wide range of budgets. got my first frame, a lugged torpado, for $26. 

gearing: at or below 70 gear inches is a good place to start. adjust from there. at least this has been my experience. 

turning: go slower into turns to avoid pedal strikes. they are much more dangerous on a fixie. gradually work up to your turning comfort level.

satisfaction: build your own bike. fixies are pretty easy to put together. assembling your own creation is very rewarding. do it at least once. 

and here's where your new fixie places you in the universe. SAT style
brakeless fixie : to braked fixie
as
fixed : geared
as 
riding a bike : driving a car


----------



## JCavilia

*Tip Number One*

Read Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed/index.html


----------



## bigrider

When climbing a steep hill and your pedaling cadence slows down to a dangerously low rate, while standing, push the bike back with your hands when your feet are at the 12 and 6 position to get you through the dead spot and get your feet in the power position of 2 o'clock. You can climb really steep stuff using this technique and save undue stress on your knees.


----------



## BianchiJoe

*Here's a couple*

Tip 1: when descending and you're really spinning like mad, on the verge of losing it, do at least one of these two things: a) apply the brake that you have so wisely installed. b) do the counter-intuitive thing and pedal harder, not softer. I don't know why this works, but it changes a scary, bouncy spin into a smoother, more controlled one. 

Tip 2: don't take your feet off the pedals when descending


----------



## Len J

Stopping:

-Stop so that the foot you normally put down on the ground has the crank at 12 o clock.

-While you are waiting for the light to change, grip the front brake tight, and push on the HB's until the rear wheel comes off the ground.....rotate pedals until one of the cranks is in the 3 o'clock position to allow for an easy start.....clip in...when the light changes push down.

-To avoid bouncing, stay "On top" of the gear.....in other words, concentrate on continuing to power the pedals.

Len


----------



## Kram

Good advice on the pedaling harder. It gets easier and really smooths out your descent. It's amazing how fast your legs can go when you don't think about it!


----------



## Mike T.

Dave Hickey said:


> Do you have a tip for the fixed fan?
> Post it here...


To smooth out a fast pedalling speed, imagine that you are twirling 2" long cranks. If you think this doesn't work, try the opposite - imagine you're turning 12" cranks! Whoa!


----------



## Pablo

*Take your time into brakelessness . . .*

We can all rant and rave until the cows come home about the wisdom, social propriety, or essence of brakeless riding. See, e.g. countless other posts. But as a brakeless rider, I feel compelled to insist that you take your time learning the ropes before even considering taking the brakes off. 

In "Puma Presents: Fixed Gear 101," a book that's been circulating, the author suggests that if you're going to ride brakeless, you should learn brakeless. Well, this isn't true. If you aspire, for whatever reason (good or bad), to go brakeless, take your time and learn how to ride fixed with a brake. It can be safe, highly pleasurable, and all the faux-zen crap people say, but this takes time. 

The skills needed to make it safe, however, take a while, and lots of hours on the bike to learn. Understanding and anticipating how cars and people enter intersections or move on sidewalks, riding hills, emergency moves, skidding, slowing down, and more importantly, stopping, are all based on learned mental processes and subtle physical movements that just flat require a lot of practice to learn and master. Moreover, you can practice riding brakeless with a "holy crap I'm screwed" brake just in case. I, for one, rode "brakeless with an emergency brake" for some two years before daring to take it off. I can now ride safely, both for myself and others. 

So, please, don't jump the gun and ruin your experience and prejudice the opinion of others.


----------



## Kram

Yes, you don't want to hasten your demise. With practice you can get to a point where you will hardly need the brake(s). Anticipating stops, slowing down, accelerating to go through traffic. It is still nice to be able to stop NOW! when you need to,though.


----------



## BianchiJoe

Pablo said:


> Understanding and anticipating how cars and people enter intersections or move on sidewalks, riding hills, emergency moves, skidding, slowing down, and more importantly, stopping, are all based on learned mental processes and subtle physical movements that just flat require a lot of practice to learn and master. Moreover, you can practice riding brakeless with a "holy crap I'm screwed" brake just in case.


Perhaps the most useful post on brakeless riding to date. Kudos.


----------



## asterisk

Random stuff off the top of my head:

Trackstanding: it isn't hard, just takes practice. Don't look down at the bike, pick a point out in front of you, focus on it. As you get better you can look around but don't look down. 

Starting from a stop: Usually from a trackstand but also with foot down, I push back a few degrees then forward to get a little momentum going, you can usually kick cars off the line like this.

Lockring tightening: Get lockring pliers, seriously. Hozan's pliers are not much more than a Park tool and they work a thousand times better. If you don't get your lockring tight, you cog will slip and strip the threads... bad times.

Routine Maintenance: yeah, it's fixed, yeah there's fewer parts but the few that are there need to be carefully taken care of or bad things happen. Check your axle nuts often as well as your chainring bolts. If they come loose, one will jam your wheel, the other will be noisey and annoying.

Know your route: Make sure you can handle the hills you may encounter or you'll learn the superman move... it's not fun the first time, it's scary as hell.

Learning to skid: nuts on the stem. That's it.


----------



## Tig

Take a few seconds to check the chain ring bolts each week. 
Occasionally they can become loose, which spells *disaster* if a few back all the way out.

Use a good flat resistant tire on the rear wheel, like Continental's Gator Skin.

If you usually ride 23 mm tires on a geared bike, try 25's (or 28's of you usually ride 25's). 

Keep the low spoke count wheels for the track or your geared race bike.
A good ol' 3 or 4 cross 32 or 36 spoke wheel handles those bumps, cracks, and pot holes that you'll hit since bunny hopping a fixie isn't all that easy.

Always ride with a peanut butter wrench.


----------



## StageHand

*Picking a pedal*

The "What pedal should I use" thread comes up pretty frequently. Here's what you need to look at:

1. What are you using the bike for? 1 mile commute, coffee shop runs, getting to my favorite spot to hang out--stuff like that, consider flats with toe clips. You'll be spending more time off the bike than on it, and it may not be worth your while to change your shoes. Longer commutes, joy rides etc, you'll probably want a mountain-style dual-sided SPD (or eggbeaters). You can still walk around in the shoes, but that combination is more comfortable for the longer time on the bike. If the bike is a training bike or you're riding it on the track, you ride it long distance and for racing, you can consider your favorite road pedals, as the wider platform is more comfortable on the road, but not as easy to walk in.

2. What are you most comfortable with? Riding unfamiliar pedal set-ups is dangerous, and can increase the likelihood of injury in an accident. If you haven't ridden cages and clips in a long time, I wouldn't put them on your brand new fixie. The new style of riding is a pretty big variable and using familiar pedals will minimize another variable. If you've never ridden clipless, this may not be the best time to start--best to wait until you ride fixed comfortably.

3. What do you have? Mostly a budget consideration, but a good place to start. You might want to match the pedals you have on other bikes. If they're not on your bike for a reason, then you probably should have gotten rid of the pedals. Shoes and pedals can cause pain on any bike. Since you're constantly on the pedals, and almost certain to keep weight on them for the entire duration of the ride, pain may be increased. This is probably not the time to recycle the pair of shoes you retired last year.


----------



## MB1

*???????*



Tig said:


> Always ride with a peanut butter wrench.


I like peanut butter but rarely carry a jar of the stuff with me when I ride.


----------



## BianchiJoe

Should you break a chain you'll undoubtedly have other things to consider first (like stopping the bleeding), but having a few extra chain links in your bag (and a chain tool) may make the difference between walking home and riding home.


----------



## Kram

Or a spare Sram link thingie (whatever they're called.) I Use them on all of my bikes. Saved a few walks home...


----------



## MB1

*A bike is a bike is a bike.*

It ain't all that complicated.

Fixed? Get one, ride it. You'll be fine.


----------



## AppleCyclingComputer

*Easy Rear Wheel Installation*

The easisest way (for me at least) to get the wheel centered and chain tensioned is with a rag.

1. Have the axle nuts loose and get the wheel centered between stays.
2. Stuff a rag between the seat tube and rear tire.
3. Bunch up the rag to achieve the right tension.
4. Making sure the wheel is still centered, get the axle nuts good and tight.

My other tip would be to get the shortest cranks you're comfortable with to avoid pedal strike on fast turns. 

And don't let any hipsters/messengers/alleycats tell you you're bike is lame just because it's not an NJS stamped Nagasawa/3Rensho/Bridgestone/etc.


----------



## victorthewombat

*my fixed tips*

Pedals: Use the cheapest clipless you can. My current favorite is the Shimano 515 mtn pedals 

Cranks: All I can state Sugino XD 165's

The tip on slime in the rear tire is excellent. 

Carry your own tools.....come on!

Ummmm; its not de riguer but rear brakes help. As well as high bars at most 1" to 1.5" below the seat line. Also, many people this board would disagree on this point....3/32" chains rule.....simply because when you must replace a chain at the bike shop in boohoken New York you are gonna be glad you went with 3/32".

Later, 

VTW


----------



## ukiahb

*be very careful working around the chain....*

cog, and chainring, since there is no freewheel if you get fingers caught in the driveline while it is moving they can be seriously mangled, this has happened to a few people and there are some truly gruesome photos documenting this on the web. This also applies to long pants, shoelaces, etc., if they get caught in the chain odds are you will NOT be able to gently coast to a stop and extricate them.......


----------



## earthtodan

Don't use a freewheel hub with a BB lockring, or any other cheapskate tricks like that. Buy an actual track wheel that uses a reverse-thread lockring to hold the cog on. Yeah, it means you can't build your bike as cheap as you were hoping, but it'll still be cheaper than new teeth.

Use blue loctite on the chainring bolts. 

Run a front brake, just in case your chainline or chain tension is a little off, especially when you first build up the bike.


----------



## dannybgoode

Fit brakes - at least a front one (I'm chicken and run a back one as well)

4 reasons why:

Riding with no brakes is illegal

Even if you're the world's best bike handler its just insane

Skip stops will wear your rear tyre out real fast

Brake blocks are easier and cheaper to replaces than knee joints

Cheers

Danny B


----------



## MediaMisfit

I just wanted to mention that a glossary with pictures would be good for the people who don't know ... Like me. Thanks.


----------



## Christine

Tips for learning? I'll be giving track riding a try this weekend. Hope to get a bike and make it part of my routine.


----------



## anthony.delorenzo

Can someone post tips on this thread for removing stubborn cogs? 

I have a (properly installed) cog that won't budge. It was put on about a month ago onto clean threads with mucho grease. My usual technique is to just loosen the lockring and then use the bike's cranks to get it off, but my 250+ lbs stomping on the pedals can't budge it. 

I can't imagine that I would be able to get more torque with a chainwhip without breaking it.

Any tips appreciated!


----------



## roadfix

anthony.delorenzo said:


> Can someone post tips on this thread for removing stubborn cogs?
> 
> I have a (properly installed) cog that won't budge. It was put on about a month ago onto clean threads with mucho grease. My usual technique is to just loosen the lockring and then use the bike's cranks to get it off, but my 250+ lbs stomping on the pedals can't budge it.
> 
> I can't imagine that I would be able to get more torque with a chainwhip without breaking it.
> 
> Any tips appreciated!


Use a reverse rotafix method to get that sucker off.


----------



## Sixty Fiver

_"Don't use a freewheel hub with a BB lockring, or any other cheapskate tricks like that. Buy an actual track wheel that uses a reverse-thread lockring to hold the cog on. Yeah, it means you can't build your bike as cheap as you were hoping, but it'll still be cheaper than new teeth."_

Three of my four fixed gear bikes are ghetto converions that use a freewheel and bb lockring as well as a good dose of red (permanent) locktite... I know countless other folks who ride on the same setup and no-one I know has had a problem.

My first fixed build (a '62 Peugeot)has logged over 2500 flawless miles with one of those cheapskate conversions.

We're also a safety concious bunch and all run at least one brake and use it more than we do our legs for stopping which echoes Sheldon Brown's advice on riding ghetto fixies.

With any kind of cycling you want to be prepared to ride and that means that you should be carrying a tool kit, a spare tire and patches, and a pump.

I agree that there is nothing wrong in using 3/32 chain and actually use this on my fixed gear mountain bike (that has two brakes). 

If you are building a bike then finding a frame that is designed for fixed is best as it will have a higher bb and lower the chances of pedal strikes... I lucked out with my '62 Peugeot as it has a track type road frame with a ridiculously high bb and I have no problem running 170 mm cranks.


----------



## ilpirati

I`m thinking on buildng my first fixie from an old track frame. It is a must to have fixing nuts rather than a quick-release on the rear wheel?


----------



## Squidward

Sixty Fiver said:


> If you are building a bike then finding a frame that is designed for fixed is best as it will have a higher bb and lower the chances of pedal strikes... I lucked out with my '62 Peugeot as it has a track type road frame with a ridiculously high bb and I have no problem running 170 mm cranks.


One of the things I regret most, recently, is selling an Atala frameset. My buddy made it a condition of buying the Guerciotti that I am using to commute with. Atala made pretty good track frames, decent road frames, and absolute garbage, too, much like Schwinn. As a matter of fact, Atala can be thought of as the Schwinn of Italy. Why do I regret selling this frame? Like a track frame, it has a higher than normal bottom bracket height and a short wheelbase (I had to deflate the rear tire to mount or dismount it from the frame). This frame had horizontal dropouts, which would have made converting it to a fixie or SS relatively easy. Now I'm looking at this Guerciotti, with its low bottom bracket height, and thinking that it will not make a good SS or fixie.


----------



## Dad Man Walking

Squidward said:


> Now I'm looking at this Guerciotti, with its low bottom bracket height, and thinking that it will not make a good SS or fixie.


A different opinion, YMMV...old steel Italian road frames make wonderful FG conversions. They have road geometry which makes them great for riding on the...hmm, let's think...Road!

The low BB is part of the overall geometry that makes those old bikes handle and ride like they do , and it might not make for a bike that is great for riding on the track, or for pedaling through tight corners a crit speeds.

The same "reprogramming phase" that you may need to go through to unlearn the coasting habit will also cover cornering, and soon you'll find that you are riding and cornering with little conscious focus that you are on a FG instead of a geared bike.


----------



## Squidward

I've already touched a pedal to the road while going around an easy curve on that bike. Luckily, it was a tap and I did not lose my composure but it's scary nonetheless.


----------



## OneGear

be sure to check your crank arm lengths. or act accordingly.


----------



## RIDEfirstWorklater

* make sure your chain is always tensioned right, you dont want to loose a chain at 30mph, ive done it, its not fun
* check your lock ring ever so often, you dont want it loose, if its loose you will spin the cog which is really bad when your going down hill and trying to stop
* its always nice to have all the tools you need to take apart your bike with you at all times
* the only way ive found to tighten the rear wheel with out chain tensioners is to take a handle from a mallet, and put it between the rear wheel and the BB shell, it also helps to have it in a stand
* a better way of stopping if you dont have brakes or dont want to skid through a tire, is to hop up the back wheel while your moving and pedal backwards when the wheel is in the air
* do trackstands with your cranks level and with your kicking foot furthest to the back of the bike, and turn the bars opeset of what hand you write with and just rock back and forth

BUY Armadillos, I have been riding fixed for a couple of years, and its the thickest tire i have been able to find. my last one lasted me about three weeks, which was amazing, i would have gone through 10 tires doing the amount of skids i did on that one tire

i like to run a fatter tire in the rear, so when im going sideways skidding down a hill i have more tire on the road which is really nice when your MASHing in SF :thumbsup:


----------



## thedips

anthony.delorenzo said:


> Can someone post tips on this thread for removing stubborn cogs?
> 
> I have a (properly installed) cog that won't budge. It was put on about a month ago onto clean threads with mucho grease. My usual technique is to just loosen the lockring and then use the bike's cranks to get it off, but my 250+ lbs stomping on the pedals can't budge it.
> 
> I can't imagine that I would be able to get more torque with a chainwhip without breaking it.
> 
> Any tips appreciated!



sorry i know this is old.. but i recently had a 16t dura ace cog replaced by a 17t eai cog.....

THE 16 WOULD NOT BUDGE.. i even had one shop break a tool to get it off..
went to a store that knew fixed gears and track bikes...

the method i saw was quite interesting...

a chisel and a very big hammer..... start by striking each tooth counter clockwise untill it frees up....

then proceed with chainwhip....


----------



## victorthewombat

*re: track frames on the road*

my experience has been its wicked uncomfortable. Especially if you are out more than 1.5 hours. There is no advatage to being able to jump right off the seat with a 74 or 75 degree head angle on a road fixie. Also, since the wheelbase on these bike is usually an inch shorter read 38" 38.5" wheelbase, the ride over most asphalt roads becomes very choppy indeed. So, thats my feeling on the subject. Don't be a wanker, or a wannabe hipster and ride a track frame on the road. 'nuff said. 

vtw


----------



## bmc

find a good gear ratio that fits your style, then start smashin. Brakeless and Fixed is all the rage...and I'm super down with it. The important thing to remember with fixies is this... If you're not riding the bike, the bike will DEFINETLEY RIDE YOU!! 
skidding is not just "nuts to stem" i.e. ===www.mashsf.com===just in case you havent seen it yet


----------



## santaspuppet

Great forum guys, i really needed this!!! Im building a fixed gear for the first time just because i think the idea of being able to ride my bike backwards is pretty cool. (the idea of not being able to coast still hasnt settled, but ill get over it) im posting my progress on You tube since im building this with out any special tools or buying the fixed gear. Ill be building everything with tools and crap i already have. Wish me look and check out my videos just search for Free Fixie on you tube. It will be from me Santaspuppet. Please comment, props and critics welcomed!! Thanks again guys!!!


----------



## jmlapoint

Use solid axles and axle nuts for secure wheels.
Carry a peanutbutter wrench.
Use 25/Heavy tire on REAR.
Use a Lockring and check it regularly for tightness
3x 14Ga Spokes work great for me. 36-REAR; 28-FRONT
Carry a spoke wrench especially if chainstays are narrow.
Carry 2 spare chain links and a chainbreaker.
I avoid any MasterLinks or SCRAM ProLinks(3/32")
Check tire pressure and chainring bolts before each ride.
I always ride a front brake. Don't use it often, but it is there for the unexpected cardoor, pothole, patch of glass, or busy intersection at the bottom of a hill. Can't see the downside to having a brake.
Just some thoughts from riding fixed for lots of years.


----------



## Alan K

MediaMisfit said:


> I just wanted to mention that a glossary with pictures would be good for the people who don't know ... Like me. Thanks.


I see that you are new here like I am... but a glossary for brakes, broken knees... ?  

A freewheeling single speed with at least brakes on one wheel is as far I would consider going for chicken(_ish_)/safety reasons. 

I commute around 6.5 miles one way with many gentle up and downhills, except a couple of them that are fairly taxing. One of them is not only steep but the road curves. At the bottom of this hill while coming down, my normal (multigear) bike's speedometer often reads around 45-48MPH. I can't imagine using a _"fixie"_ without brakes. At such a speed even the best helmet worn entirely correctly, would prove nothing more than a brain-bucket.

I think that many of us (who are not into pro or semi-professional racing) needlessly find ourselves getting caught up in shedding ounces off our bikes at great cost ($ or safety and often both). Given that for many of us reasons for riding a bicycle involve one, a combination, or all of the following: exercise, enjoyment, conservation (fossil fuel & $), just about any middle of the road cost bicycle that weighs a little more than a feather but built well, ought to do quite nicely. Lately, in spite of owning a few lighter bicycles, I seem to favor an older touring bicycle. I have a Trek Sirrus and an older French Motobécane Grand Touring; both are heavier, older than hills and still as functional as the day they were bought (with periodic maintenance, of course). 

In a decade or two when some new materials, lighter than styrofoam and sturdier than Ti, will be fashionable in new bikes and you guys will be dumping your OCLV gear for a couple hundred quids, I may pick one up just to see what the hoopla is all about. :idea:


----------



## Fixed

*tips*

To spin really fast, lift your butt just a bit off the saddle. Keep close enough to help control, but enough off to allow some vertical movement. I've hit 190 rpms doing this.

Do some extreme riding. To get used to 130 rpms, go out and try 180. To get used to riding up 10% grades, go try 15%. Over reaching seems to help with the "normal" stuff. Practice the extremes.

Go try to see what it feels like to stop with just your legs descending a 5% grade at 25 mph. If you are running only a front brake and get a flat on the front, or no brake, it will help a lot to have experienced this. I did this, and was shocked at how long it took to stop using all my might. 

Apply some anti-seize to the threads before installing your cog and lock ring. 

Bullhorns. Double wrapped bullhorns are by far the most comfortable way to go on long out of the saddle climbs. Allows you to get tall out of the saddle, which saves the knees. Far easier on you than drop bars / hoods.

On really long rides, use the brake rather than try to spin 150 rpms down the hills keeping up with freewheeled bikes. Keep speed to about 25-28 mph, or else the chafing and fatigue will kill you.

Chamois Butt'r. Lots.

When non-fixies are drafting you, make sure they understand that you can slow down while pedaling. Had someone plow into me once.

On long climbs, get used to using a full pedaling circle, pulling up and through; this saves your quads and knees.

Get you cleat bolts really tight. For some reason, my Look cleats seem to work loose much more frequently on the fixed.

Lose weight. Climbing fixed is hard enough as it is.

Use thickly padded socks, good insoles, and thick, stiff shoes, with large contact area pedals, if you will be climbing long steep hills. Saves your feet.

Using 1/8" cogs/rings and an Izumi V chain will eliminate chain problems. A little heavier, but worth it. I think the Izumi could run on a Harley and not break.

Use a mirror, like a Take a Look, as on huge hills you may have to start traversing. Helps to know what's coming up behind you.


----------



## ukiahb

*Wikipedia article...*

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed_gear is interesting in itself on the basics of FG riding, but also has a LOT of great links for further info....


----------



## Fixedwheelnut

Thought I would post these pics of some poor guy who lost his fingertip cleaning his chain;
graphic fingertip loss


----------



## Fixedwheelnut

Plus a link to a Wiki page set up for providing top tips for fixed gear riding/riders;
http://fixiefaqs.xwiki.com/xwiki/bin/view/Main/WebHome


----------



## AlanE

*Chain tensioning*

Picked up this method from the late great Sheldon Brown

1. With both axle bolts loose, push the wheel back to achive "reasonable" chain tension (not too tight) and skew the wheel toward the drive side so that the tire is against the drive side chainstay.

2. Tighten the drive side axle bolt "semi" tight.

3. Now center the wheel. Doing this tensions the chain further.

4. Tighten the non-drive side axle bolt and fully tighten the drive side bolt.

It may take some trial & error practice to get a good feel for how much tension to put on the chain in step 1. If you make it too tight, it will be really tight after step 3. Also in step 2, you want to make the initial tightening of the drive side bolt enough so you don't get slippage in step 3 but not so tight that you can't center the wheel.


----------



## jmchapple

dannybgoode said:


> Fit brakes - at least a front one (I'm chicken and run a back one as well)
> 
> 4 reasons why:
> 
> Riding with no brakes is illegal
> 
> Even if you're the world's best bike handler its just insane
> 
> Skip stops will wear your rear tyre out real fast
> 
> Brake blocks are easier and cheaper to replaces than knee joints
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Danny B


I second your reasons for front and rear brakes. I've been riding fixed for 2 years and there is no reason to not have them if there are hills anywhere close by.


----------



## roadfix

*Posing tip #1*

When posing always park your bike with the drivetrain facing the street or crowd. Never hide your drivetrain against a wall or post.
Not only will you be admiring your bike from the correct side while sipping on the cup of java, anyone else walking by will be able to check out your drivetrain and perhaps comment on your bike as well.


----------



## bicycleguy

roadfix said:


> When posing always park your bike with the drivetrain facing the street or crowd. Never hide your drivetrain against a wall or post.
> Not only will you be admiring your bike from the correct side while sipping on the cup of java, anyone else walking by will be able to check out your drivetrain and perhaps comment on your bike as well.


you could do that but, if a breeze or someone else knocks your bike over then your admirable drivetrain will be admirably damaged


----------



## tubadude

bigrider said:


> When climbing a steep hill and your pedaling cadence slows down to a dangerously low rate, while standing, push the bike back with your hands when your feet are at the 12 and 6 position to get you through the dead spot and get your feet in the power position of 2 o'clock. You can climb really steep stuff using this technique and save undue stress on your knees.


I just discovered this myself about 2 weeks ago. If I had only read this thread 4 years ago. :mad2:


----------



## vancouver-rider

If you find it difficult to spin your legs fast going downhill, your saddle height might be too high. A good place to start is to measure your inseam and multiply it by 0.883. That should be the height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your seat. Fine tune it from there accordingly. Your hips should not be rocking side to side as you pedal and you shouldn't be bouncing off your saddle at a high cadence either.

I had trouble spinning fast going downhill until I adjusted my seat lower.


----------



## cole91

bigrider said:


> When climbing a steep hill and your pedaling cadence slows down to a dangerously low rate, while standing, push the bike back with your hands when your feet are at the 12 and 6 position to get you through the dead spot and get your feet in the power position of 2 o'clock. You can climb really steep stuff using this technique and save undue stress on your knees.[/Q]
> 
> I've been trying to understand this. Anyone have any insight? I mean when I'm at 12 and 6 I can push the bike back but I don't see it helping much?


----------



## Special Eyes

Yeah, I read this here somewhere, too, and I never could get my mind to understand what the heck it means.


----------



## r_o_b_s_o_n

So I just started riding fixed about a week ago. Today I was riding, and was slowing / 'trying' to skid and my shoe unclipped.... oh sh!t I had one foot in, and one foot flailing... I was not on the saddle!! and was being taken for a rodeo ride... I was at a loss for what to do. I was trying to get my ass on the saddle so I could clip back in / think about what to do!! I DO HAVE A BRAKE on the front... but was a bit slow getting to it, since I didn't want to release my grip with either hand while being bucked like i was riding a bull... 

any way, I ended up hitting a curb, right beside a bus. Luckily I survived with little more than a bit of skin off my elbow, and a few scuffs on the wheel, but nothing serious... actually the thing I was most bummed about was that I spilled my coffee that was in the side pouch of my back pack...

so first thing I did when I had tools available to me, was tighten the clamp pressure on my pedals as much as they would go. 

what other tips do you have to avoid this type of incident in the future?

any tips on how to skid-stop smoothly?

thanks a bunch!!

-newb.... hahah.... 

oh yeah... I'm not new to cycling, only new to riding fixed...


----------



## Atomic Barber

r_o_b_s_o_n said:


> So I just started riding fixed about a week ago. Today I was riding, and was slowing / 'trying' to skid and my shoe unclipped.... oh sh!t I had one foot in, and one foot flailing... I was not on the saddle!! and was being taken for a rodeo ride... I was at a loss for what to do. I was trying to get my ass on the saddle so I could clip back in / think about what to do!! I DO HAVE A BRAKE on the front... but was a bit slow getting to it, since I didn't want to release my grip with either hand while being bucked like i was riding a bull...
> 
> any way, I ended up hitting a curb, right beside a bus. Luckily I survived with little more than a bit of skin off my elbow, and a few scuffs on the wheel, but nothing serious... actually the thing I was most bummed about was that I spilled my coffee that was in the side pouch of my back pack...
> 
> so first thing I did when I had tools available to me, was tighten the clamp pressure on my pedals as much as they would go.
> 
> what other tips do you have to avoid this type of incident in the future?
> 
> any tips on how to skid-stop smoothly?
> 
> thanks a bunch!!
> 
> -newb.... hahah....
> 
> oh yeah... I'm not new to cycling, only new to riding fixed...


Use your brake and your legs. You'll be surprised how fast you can stop with out skidding.


----------



## jpcough

This weekend, I did something that I ALWAYS thought I was careful enough to avoid. That being said, it can still happen to any of us if we get distracted for a split-second (like I did):

-PLEEEEASE BE CAREFUL when oiling/cleaning the chain on your fixie! I managed to do the unthinkable & get my entire index finger pulled into my chain/chainring (yes, it went all the way around). I'm lucky I still have my finger (or most of it at least) as fixies don't coast, and that chainring WILL eat your finger up like Pacman!!! I always take care to watch my fingers when the bike is up on a work stand & the cranks are spinning, but obviously accidents happen! So don't be like me, WATCH YOUR FINGERS!! (*pics available upon request :-O


----------



## blacknyc

ok now we want to see pics


----------



## citisin

Special Eyes said:


> Yeah, I read this here somewhere, too, and I never could get my mind to understand what the heck it means.


think of it as a leap frog over your bike. pull it back under you.


----------



## Atomic Barber

jpcough said:


> This weekend, I did something that I ALWAYS thought I was careful enough to avoid. That being said, it can still happen to any of us if we get distracted for a split-second (like I did):
> 
> -PLEEEEASE BE CAREFUL when oiling/cleaning the chain on your fixie! I managed to do the unthinkable & get my entire index finger pulled into my chain/chainring (yes, it went all the way around). I'm lucky I still have my finger (or most of it at least) as fixies don't coast, and that chainring WILL eat your finger up like Pacman!!! I always take care to watch my fingers when the bike is up on a work stand & the cranks are spinning, but obviously accidents happen! So don't be like me, WATCH YOUR FINGERS!! (*pics available upon request :-O


You know the drill... pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## Atomic Barber

I need another 2 posts so I can post pics of my bikes so heres another fixed gear tip, don't try to grind up hills like you would geared. I know this is probably obvious but I've seen people trying to do it and my knees hurt for them. Learn to know when to stand.


----------



## aalameer

vancouver-rider said:


> If you find it difficult to spin your legs fast going downhill, your saddle height might be too high. A good place to start is to measure your inseam and multiply it by 0.883. That should be the height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your seat. Fine tune it from there accordingly. Your hips should not be rocking side to side as you pedal and you shouldn't be bouncing off your saddle at a high cadence either.
> 
> I had trouble spinning fast going downhill until I adjusted my seat lower.


Useful tip! Thanks for mentioning it.


----------



## AKang269

Very helpful, thanks guys.


----------



## jpcough

My chainwhip has been collecting dust ever since I learned how to "rotafix" my cogs on/off...no tools required, and by FAR the best method to get your cog on REALLY tight!! Highly recommend trying it!!

urbanvelo.org/the-rotafix-method/


----------



## Renelikedecartes

*Caron fixie FELT FOOTPRINT*

Any thoughts on the pros and cons of a carbon fixie?


----------



## Alan K

I am in the process of converting my ancient Bianchi (from the days when they were made in Italy) to single speed... it will have freewheel, front brakes, and a carbon fork. The last part is still not bought yet, but my thought is that it will help smooth out the effects of not so smooth road a bit.


----------



## hikzero

Helpful stuff, guys, thanks.


----------



## Tucson_2011

citisin said:


> think of it as a leap frog over your bike. pull it back under you.


pushing the bike back with your hands really means pull it back under you. Not pulling up on the bars, but level elbow back which helps to create a "surge" in the momentum. I do this with an overhand grip on the bar near the stem rather than an underhand grip in the same place. Think of it as a pumping motion, compressing your body between your hands and the feet.


----------



## LandShark'n

Thumbs up to maxing-out the tension on clipless pedals.

When riding with a group, odds are you will be the lone wolf. Learn to exploit your strengths to keep up. For me, this means hammering to the top of each climb because I know I can easily get dropped on the descent.


----------



## kinguin7

"BUY Armadillos, I have been riding fixed for a couple of years, and its the thickest tire i have been able to find. my last one lasted me about three weeks, which was amazing, i would have gone through 10 tires doing the amount of skids i did on that one tire"

Buy brakes instead. In all seriousness though, there is NO reason to not have brakes on your fixie other than looking cool. And as we all know, doing something that everyone else knows you only do because it's cool is tragically uncool. If you choose to skid through tires anyways, that's up to you, and it sure is fun.


"I DO HAVE A BRAKE on the front... but was a bit slow getting to it, since I didn't want to release my grip with either hand "

Put your brake levers somewhere you can reach them without releasing your grip. 

My MTB and fixie/commuter, which both have flat bars, have the levers shoved towards the stem for optimal 1 finger braking. This allows me to have a firm grip on the bars and keep my brake finger on the lever at all times. Personally, this gives me enough stopping power to endo myself whenever I want, but ymmv.


----------



## dexetr30

Keeping your fingers out of the drive-train can not be emphasized enough. I got the index finger on my left hand caught between the chain and the cog last September. I broke the bone and tore the fingernail completely off. I had to go to the emergency room and then a week later I had surgery. 

Me in the emergency room after it happened. They stuck those two large needles right into my hand!!!
View attachment 275241


After they cleaned it up and stitched the remainder of my finger nail back on.
View attachment 275242


These two are pre-surgery a week after the initial "incident".

View attachment 275243
View attachment 275244


Everything healed well and my fingernail has almost completely regrown.

Lesson learned: Move the grease rag along the chain in segments instead of rotating the entire assembly and cleaning the chain as it passes through the rag in your hand. _*No part of the drive train should be spinning while you are cleaning things!!!*_


----------



## rider9

cole91 said:


> bigrider said:
> 
> 
> 
> When climbing a steep hill and your pedaling cadence slows down to a dangerously low rate, while standing, push the bike back with your hands when your feet are at the 12 and 6 position to get you through the dead spot and get your feet in the power position of 2 o'clock. You can climb really steep stuff using this technique and save undue stress on your knees.[/Q]
> 
> I've been trying to understand this. Anyone have any insight? I mean when I'm at 12 and 6 I can push the bike back but I don't see it helping much?
> 
> 
> 
> Think of it as pulling the handlebars toward you while pushing your 12 o'clock foot forward. If you move back on the seat, it will give you more leverage. HTH. YMMV.
Click to expand...


----------



## hopatrickz

jesus that 2nd picture


----------



## evanchale

good tips. Any tools you guys don't leave home without while on a ride? It is a simple fixed gear but I was just curious.


----------



## rider9

evanchale said:


> good tips. Any tools you guys don't leave home without while on a ride? It is a simple fixed gear but I was just curious.


In addition to my flat kit (extra tube, levers, CO2 cartridge, minipump, multitool), I carry an axle nut wrench. I also carry a different wrench for my seatpost clamp nuts. So, I carry a 13 mm and a 15 mm combination wrench.


----------



## dwt

I'm no experienced expert, having now built my first one, but in my limited experience a rear brake is a huge PIA if you have flip flop hub and switch frequently. Each time you flip, you have to adjust chain tension and brake pads at the same time. For some maybe a no brainer. For me PIA. and infuriating. Put it on then removed , now removed for good. If Sheldon Brown doesn't need it, who does? Front brake all you really need. Rear brake is legs.


----------



## dwt

dwt said:


> I'm no experienced expert, having now built my first one, but in my limited experience a rear brake is a huge PIA if you have flip flop hub and switch frequently. Each time you flip, you have to adjust chain tension and brake pads at the same time. For some maybe a no brainer. For me PIA. and infuriating. Put it on then removed , now removed for good. If Sheldon Brown doesn't need it, who does? Front brake all you really need. Rear brake is legs.


I need to retract this bogus advice for newbies. A rear brake is very useful, if only as a fail safe back/up. If you get your chain properly tensioned, flip flop not that bad a task. I recommend using BMX tensioners with horizontal track mount rear end

https://www.google.com/search?q=bmx...Q1TU&biw=320&bih=460#spd=12363625053167630485

As far as stand up leg stomp rear wheel stop, that is a skill easier to visualize than master


----------



## Natedogz

jpcough said:


> My chainwhip has been collecting dust ever since I learned how to "rotafix" my cogs on/off...no tools required, and by FAR the best method to get your cog on REALLY tight!! Highly recommend trying it!!
> 
> urbanvelo.org/the-rotafix-method/


Never seen that, pretty cool. I use a ParkTool chain whip.


----------



## dwt

evanchale said:


> good tips. Any tools you guys don't leave home without while on a ride? It is a simple fixed gear but I was just curious.


15mm wrench for your rear axle bolts., just in case. Stubby size wrench. fits in saddle bag easily. For more $$., Park makes a Single speed specialty tool
http://m.parktool.com/product/single-speed-spanner-ss-15


----------



## David Loving

Your first post is dead-on.


----------



## dwt

Mountain bike shoes and clipless pedals instead of road. All mtb pedals have dual sided entry, advantageous if not necessary when clipping into a pedal moving on a rotating crank. If you have to put a foot down, a mtb bike shoe it will hold on tread instead of sliding on a cleat (mountain cleats being recessed under the shoe tread). If you ride in an urban setting, you can walk around when not riding. If you have to hike a killer climb, it's a piece of cake. Fairly intuitive I'd say. 

I started with road shoes and speedplay pedals and almost ruined the cleats. The speedplays do have dual sided entry, easy in & easy out, but huge ungainly cleats that slide on the pavement when you put your foot down. Difficult to walk on in the extreme. 

I highly recommend Shimano PD M540 SPD pedals; economical; easy in & out plus enough of a platform to hold your shoe for a few crank revolutions if you don't clip in immediately.


----------



## fixinta

Pant legs...Either roll the right one up, strap it, or wear shorts. Pant legs and fixed gears will form an alliance and put the hurt on you.


----------



## dwt

kinguin7 said:


> Buy brakes instead. In all seriousness though, there is NO reason to not have brakes on your fixie other than looking cool. And as we all know, doing something that everyone else knows you only do because it's cool is tragically uncool. If you choose to skid through tires anyways, that's up to you, and it sure is "
> 
> Put your brake levers somewhere you can reach them without releasing your grip.
> 
> My MTB and fixie/commuter, which both have flat bars, have the levers shoved towards the stem for optimal 1 finger braking. This allows me to have a firm grip on the bars and keep my brake finger on the lever at all times. Personally, this gives me enough stopping power to endo myself whenever I want, but ymmv.


I'm a fan of front and rear brakes, in opposition to the late great Sheldon Brown who was of the opinion that there is no reason for a rear brake on a fixie. 

I use my front brake to stop and my rear brake as a sea anchor to slow me down on descents to a speed where I can handle the rpms comfortably, a bit north 20mph with my skill level and drivetrain


----------



## JCavilia

dwt said:


> I'm a fan of front and rear brakes, in opposition to the late great Sheldon Brown who was of the opinion that there is no reason for a rear brake on a fixie.
> 
> I use my front brake to stop and my rear brake as a sea anchor to slow me down on descents to a speed where I can handle the rpms comfortably, a bit north 20mph with my skill level and drivetrain


That's only about 100 rpm with your gearing. Gotta work on that spin!

A rear brake is useful for that, and also if you ride much in wet conditions, when a braked front wheel can skid. You can handle a rear-wheel skid, but a front skid means boom.

I only have front brakes on my fixies. I don't do that much riding with long descents, and I can manage over 140 rpm for a while (which gets me over 30 mph), so there's less call for drag braking. And when I ride in the wet, it's slow and flat.

And as Sheldon pointed out, you can slow the rear wheel with back pressure, which I do to some extent (even though all my fixie rear wheels are "suicide hubs" -- which have never unthreaded, a bit. Clean threads and plenty of blue Loctite and they don't move unless I really want them to.)


----------



## dwt

JCavilia said:


> That's only about 100 rpm with your gearing. Gotta work on that spin!


Yes coach, I do. But remember I'm a relative newbie on FG. Only my 2nd season. Plus I'm a wuss. 



> in lA rear brake is useful for that, and also if you ride much in wet conditions, when a braked front wheel can skid. You can handle a rear-wheel skid, but a front skid means boom.
> 
> I only have front brakes on my fixies. I don't do that much riding with long descents, and I can manage over 140 rpm for a while (which gets me over 30 mph), so there's less call for drag braking. And when I ride in the wet, it's slow and flat.
> 
> And as Sheldon pointed out, you can slow the rear wheel with back pressure, which I do to some extent (even though all my fixie rear wheels are "suicide hubs" -- which have never unthreaded, a bit. Clean threads and plenty of blue Loctite and they don't move unless I really want them to.)


Sounds like getting it off could be a chore. You might need to use Rotafix method as someone posted here recently

http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue11/urbanvelo11_p76-77.html


----------



## waldo425

dwt said:


> Yes coach, I do. But remember I'm a relative newbie on FG. Only my 2nd season. Plus I'm a wuss.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like getting it off could be a chore. You might need to use Rotafix method as someone posted here recently
> 
> http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue11/urbanvelo11_p76-77.html


Try imagining that the crank is smaller than it really is. So try and spin really small circles with your toes. Eventually, muscle memory will take over and it'll be a natural feeling to spin faster.

Doing this and riding fixed gear bikes a lot helped me get my max cadence to about 190+ RPM.


----------



## Eric Hyom

I really enjoyed descending at speed on a 48 – 20 fixed, whilst riding the 1200k Paris – Brest – Paris. A cadence of 200 – 240 rpm can be reached with fairly minimum effort on long hills. It is a skill that can be learned.



Try pointing your toes more down towards the road for the full peddle rotation. It will feel as if much of the movement is being absorbed through your ankles, and less through your knees. Practice at low speeds on the flat, as a fixed can be brutal in teaching us lessons.
Learn to relax your breathing as you hurtle downhill. When I first started to ride a fixed, it was my breathing that limited how far or how fast I could go downhill. 


If you want to increase your speed downhill, you just need to peddle harder and faster maybe half a dozen times. Then you learn to match your cadence with that of the fixed you peddle extremely fast but with virtually no effort. 
I constantly used two brakes on the ride, I would not have felt safe; or gone as fast with just the one. 



You need to be fairly relaxed when you reach the bottom of the hill; as there is often a climb waiting for you. Riding a low gear, I learned to use minimum effort on climbs. Imagine your fingers between your shoe and the peddle, then try and peddle with a gentle force that would not crush your fingers. There seems to be a cadence on climbs that requires little effort, and it just feels right. It is difficult to define this optimum cadence. But if you go faster or slower, you feel the difference and need to use more effort. 



I found riding the 1200k PBP on fixed much easier; than riding the 1400k Lands End to John ‘o’ groats on gears.


----------



## timlewis

Eric Hyom said:


> I really enjoyed descending at speed on a 48 – 20 fixed, whilst riding the 1200k Paris – Brest – Paris. A cadence of 200 – 240 rpm can be reached with fairly minimum effort on long hills. It is a skill that can be learned.
> 
> 
> 
> Try pointing your toes more down towards the road for the full peddle rotation. It will feel as if much of the movement is being absorbed through your ankles, and less through your knees. Practice at low speeds on the flat, as a fixed can be brutal in teaching us lessons.
> Learn to relax your breathing as you hurtle downhill. When I first started to ride a fixed, it was my breathing that limited how far or how fast I could go downhill.
> 
> 
> If you want to increase your speed downhill, you just need to peddle harder and faster maybe half a dozen times. Then you learn to match your cadence with that of the fixed you peddle extremely fast but with virtually no effort.
> I constantly used two brakes on the ride, I would not have felt safe; or gone as fast with just the one.
> 
> 
> 
> You need to be fairly relaxed when you reach the bottom of the hill; as there is often a climb waiting for you. Riding a low gear, I learned to use minimum effort on climbs. Imagine your fingers between your shoe and the peddle, then try and peddle with a gentle force that would not crush your fingers. There seems to be a cadence on climbs that requires little effort, and it just feels right. It is difficult to define this optimum cadence. But if you go faster or slower, you feel the difference and need to use more effort.
> 
> 
> 
> I found riding the 1200k PBP on fixed much easier; than riding the 1400k Lands End to John ‘o’ groats on gears.


Hi Eric!
You were the one responsible for getting me riding fixed all those years ago! I still do on short rides and still love it! 48x19 on a Gillott frame. My partner dislikes me riding it however as she says I go much faster on it than on gears!
Good times riding with the other "hardriders" from Southampton CTC,
Jane, Alan, Bob, Ray and a few others whose names I have forgotten.
Hope all is well with you and you are happy and healthy.
Tim Lewis


----------

