# Cross-chaining in Campy 11-speed possible?



## jaibautista (Mar 20, 2010)

Greetings!

I would just like to ask your opinion on my current dilemma. I've been a happy camper on the Campy Chorus '12/'13 gruppo, given the more comfy hoods shape, the ability to dump multiple gears in one push, and the plush rotation of the crankset (the last, I think, is more placebo than fact. )

However, I noticed that I cannot easily shift to the largest cog from the immediately preceding cog (btw, I'm using a 12-27 Chorus cassette) while I'm on the large ring (I'm using a standard 53t-39t crankset). For the most part, when I push the downshift lever to shift to the largest cog, I hear a clicking noise on the RD and it won't immediately shift; either I have to press the downshift lever once more (at times, with stronger force) or I have to wait for the RD to actually derail the chain to the largest cog.

A few minutes ago, I tried to fix the problem myself. Usually, the culprit here is slack cable tension, which became apparent when I shifted all the way to the highest gear while the chain's on the large ring. I checked the cable tension and, lo and behold, it really was slack due perhaps to cable tension. What I did was to tighten cable tension by loosening the cable bolt, pulling the cable, then tightening the cable bolt once more. I also checked the L limit stop if it's properly adjusted; it already was. 

I again tried shifting to the largest cog from the immediately preceding cog while the chain's on the large ring. The clicking still remains. When I tried the same procedure while the chain's on the small ring, I got mixed results. More often than not, shifting to the largest cog was effortless. But there were times when the clicking still happened.

Is cross-chaining (53t and 27t combo) on Campy 11-speed not advisable? I was able to do it with Shimano 105 5600 and SRAM Rival before; why can't I do it on Campy Chorus?

Is there something wrong with the RD? I checked if the RD cage was slightly misaligned or bent; it wasn't. 

Thanks in advance!


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

I'm running a 12-29 cassette on a Chorus setup. Can go big-big with no problem. 

Although you say the limit is correctly adjusted, the problem you have indicates it's not.

Suggest you read up on RD setup and go easy on it. Don't force anything.


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## jaibautista (Mar 20, 2010)

bikerjulio said:


> I'm running a 12-29 cassette on a Chorus setup. Can go big-big with no problem.
> 
> Although you say the limit is correctly adjusted, the problem you have indicates it's not.
> 
> Suggest you read up on RD setup and go easy on it. Don't force anything.


sir bikerjulio,

Thanks for the prompt reply!

Here's what I've observed: the clicking is happening in the RD. I noticed that the RD (the cage and the RD itself) already moved when I pressed the downshift paddle but the chain won't derail into the largest cog. During the "clicking" sound, I also noticed that the RD is slightly quivering; only after a few seconds and a few rotations of the crankset (and after the chain was actually derailed into the largest cog) will the quivering and clicking stop.

Also, I've observed that the FD was properly aligned and that the clicking noise wasn't emanating from the chain rubbing the FD.

If I can't pinpoint the problem myself, I may have to bring it to an LBS specializing in tuning Campy stuff. I'm just too afraid of messing with Campy as replacement parts are hard to come by here and that they're quite expensive to procure. Haha 

Again, thanks for the prompt reply!


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

jaibautista said:


> sir bikerjulio,
> 
> Thanks for the prompt reply!
> 
> ...


Another aspect is geometry. If the distance from your BB to the RD is short (ie, small frame) then cross-chaining is worse than it does on a large/long frame.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

If you just back off the low limit screw by say 1/2 turn, does the situation improve?

Another issue that a shop should check is that the derailleur hanger is properly aligned. There is a special tool to do this. You'd be surprised as to how many frames I find with poor hanger alignment.

And to comment on OJ's point, my frame is a Cannondale SS with pretty short chainstays.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

The problem is the "B" screw that controls the relationship of the upper jockey pulley to the the cogs. Look under the main pivot for the screw and turn it counterclockwise, a couple of turns, but don't unscrew it completely. 

Read the instructions on RD setup. See figures 11 and 12 of the PDF.

http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/11s_Rear_derailleur_01-11.pdf

That said, you should never ride for an extended period in the big/big combo on any bike, regardless of how many speeds it has. A few strokes to get over the top of a hill might be OK, but if you're climbing in the big ring, it should be something short that you can ride out of the saddle in a tall gear. Other than that situation, shift to the little ring.


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## skleins (May 19, 2010)

C-40 said:


> The problem is the "B" screw that controls the relationship of the upper jockey pulley to the the cogs. Look under the main pivot for the screw and turn it counterclockwise, a couple of turns, but don't unscrew it completely.
> 
> Read the instructions on RD setup. See figures 11 and 12 of the PDF.
> 
> ...


Ditto to above.

Sorry, but I really dont understand this present fashion statement of newbie riders having to ride everywhere on the large chainring.

Why do you need or even want to run the large chainring and largest sprocket simultaneously when you can get an almost identical ration without putting undue stress on chain/cassette/rear gear. Have you looked at the angle of your chain when in this combo to see how ridiculous this is?!


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## jaibautista (Mar 20, 2010)

@C-40 & @skleins

Sir, I've already tried playing with the B-screw. But it still won't work. :-(

Seems I have to learn to how to properly do gearing decisions on the bike. I had been cross-chaining to bail out myself from nasty short ascents. I always forget that there's a smaller ring for use in those occasions and that there's a small-ring/cassette gear ratio that could approximate the big ring/big cassette combo. Rather than risk drastically shortening the life of the chain and the cogs by constantly cross-chaining, I think I'll just have to learn proper gearing. It will also make me a stronger rider in the long term.

Sorry for the noob mistake. I've been riding a roadie for more than two years already but I have lots to learn still. Haha 

Thanks for the advice!


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

If you've backed the B screw out as far as it can go, without disengaging it, then I suspect that your chain is too short. A lot of people set the chain length using the big/big plus 1 inch method, but Campy recommends what is essentially the little/little method. Shift to the small ring and smallest cog, with the chain routed through the RD, like normal. You can make the chain as long as possible, just not so long that the RD cage has no tension on it, or the chain hangs loose. As long as the lower pulley swings forward by a small amount when the ends of the chain are brought together, it will work fine.

Most likely, the chain can be 1 inch longer, but probably not 2 inches.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

C-40 said:


> If you've backed the B screw out as far as it can go, without disengaging it, then I suspect that your chain is too short. A lot of people set the chain length using the big/big plus 1 inch method, but Campy recommends what is essentially the little/little method. Shift to the small ring and smallest cog, with the chain routed through the RD, like normal. You can make the chain as long as possible, just not so long that the RD cage has no tension on it, or the chain hangs loose. As long as the lower pulley swings forward by a small amount when the ends of the chain are brought together, it will work fine.
> 
> Most likely, the chain can be 1 inch longer, but probably not 2 inches.


OP if you could take side view pictures of the RD in the Big-big and small-small combos it will help confirm the short chain hypothesis.


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## jaibautista (Mar 20, 2010)

Hi again everyone! 

I just came from an LBS and had my RD checked there. Surprisingly, when the mechanic played with the barrel adjuster, the clicking problem went away. 

I asked the mechanic if the chain length was fine; he answered in the affirmative. 

He, however, warned me against cross-chaining as it puts undue stress on the RD spring and the cage. He also mentioned the extreme angle at which the chain moves, which may have adverse consequences on the longevity of the components. Thus, he advised me to just shift to the lower ring and find a cog that will approximate the gear ratio of the big ring-biggest cog combo (based on my initial research, it's the 39-19 combo).

Again, thanks to everyone who replied and assisted me in my dilemma. 

Happy new year to all!


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