# whats the best cadence to ride at?



## Giffs

I am new to road biking and have been riding consistently everyday for at least 30 minutes but more like an hour every weekday and much more on weekend. 

I feel like I might be pedalling too slowly when in my highest (most difficult) gears. 

I want to be as efficient as possible for long rides, what is the best cadence to be riding at? or am i better to focus on heart rate?


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## JoelS

There is no "best" cadence. What is best for me won't be best for you. We're all built differently. 

The best thing for you to do right now is just to ride.


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## Kerry Irons

Giffs said:


> I am new to road biking and have been riding consistently everyday for at least 30 minutes but more like an hour every weekday and much more on weekend.
> 
> I feel like I might be pedalling too slowly when in my highest (most difficult) gears.
> 
> I want to be as efficient as possible for long rides, what is the best cadence to be riding at? or am i better to focus on heart rate?


While there are those who will argue that "cadence is personal" in fact it is a skill, just like other riding skills. For ridin on the flats the general range to shoot for is 80-100 rpm and the optimum is probably around 90-100. If you watch experienced cyclists you will see them in this range. Low cadence puts the load on the leg muscles which can take a day or longer to recover from high stresses. High cadence shifts the load more to the cardiovascular system which can recover in minutes. Low cadence also poses risks to the knee joint. Low cadence prevents you from making full use of your gears and makes it harder to respond to speed changes.


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## Creakyknees

According to the data from my SRM, it's 98.

I feel "bogged down" at anything below 90.

Though, sometimes, with tired legs or an slight tailwind / downhill, it's nice to put in a big gear and turn over the pedals slowly but with effort.


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## gamara

The one thing I see a lot of that people do, which peeves me to no end, is plodding along in way too big a gear. That is not efficiency. Your bike has gears. So choose the gear that will allow you to spin as Kerry has put forth. As you become fitter & more efficient, you will be able to ride with less effort for a given speed. The main thing with your bike is to become comfortable with the shifters & practice with the shifting.


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## wkurider

I try to stay above 80. It took some time to get out of the habit of trying to power through at a lower cadence. it will be interesting to see peoples answers...


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## Guest

Giffs said:


> I am new to road biking and have been riding consistently everyday for at least 30 minutes but more like an hour every weekday and much more on weekend.
> 
> I feel like I might be pedalling too slowly when in my highest (most difficult) gears.
> 
> I want to be as efficient as possible for long rides, what is the best cadence to be riding at? or am i better to focus on heart rate?


This will be highly individual. I tend to be a natural "spinner" myself, first time I started riding w/ a computer that counted cadence I found I was averaging about 95rpm over the course of rides (only counting time actually pedaling). I'd generally be somewhat lower (mid 80s) on climbs, and significantly higher on fast straightaway sections (~105 rpm).


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## Giffs

Kerry Irons said:


> While there are those who will argue that "cadence is personal" in fact it is a skill, just like other riding skills. For ridin on the flats the general range to shoot for is 80-100 rpm and the optimum is probably around 90-100. If you watch experienced cyclists you will see them in this range. Low cadence puts the load on the leg muscles which can take a day or longer to recover from high stresses. High cadence shifts the load more to the cardiovascular system which can recover in minutes. Low cadence also poses risks to the knee joint. Low cadence prevents you from making full use of your gears and makes it harder to respond to speed changes.





gamara said:


> The one thing I see a lot of that people do, which peeves me to no end, is plodding along in way too big a gear. That is not efficiency. Your bike has gears. So choose the gear that will allow you to spin as Kerry has put forth. As you become fitter & more efficient, you will be able to ride with less effort for a given speed. The main thing with your bike is to become comfortable with the shifters & practice with the shifting.


thanks guys, i appreciate the info. I ordered a computer for my bike and ensure to focus more on cadence when I get it.


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## Mike T.

Picking points from a few answers here - yes, cadence is personal but below 80 or above 100 is not being efficient for the vast majority of us unless we're climbing or downhill/tailwind. So I agree with Kerry. I've been doing lots of roller riding this winter (almost every day) and on my steady-state riding days I'm at 90rpm. I never bother checking when I'm on the road as I just know what is right. But newbies aren't usually sure.

When you get your cadence computer, pedal for about 5 minutes steady and choose what feels right - and then look at the reading rather than the other way around. Adjust as necessary and then you get to know the feeling.


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## OWSI

I am new at cycling also.... I see a cadence meter and a HRM as tools. 
I try to keep my cadence at 90 RPM. I use the HRM to set my pace, changing gears to keep cadence and HR in the ranges that I desire. For me a HRM keeps me from over doing things and having to stop to recover to complete the last couple of miles. I don't know if this is the best way to do things, but so far it is working for me.


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## Giffs

Mike T. said:


> Picking points from a few answers here - yes, cadence is personal but below 80 or above 100 is not being efficient for the vast majority of us unless we're climbing or downhill/tailwind. So I agree with Kerry. I've been doing lots of roller riding this winter (almost every day) and on my steady-state riding days I'm at 90rpm. I never bother checking when I'm on the road as I just know what is right. But newbies aren't usually sure.
> 
> When you get your cadence computer, pedal for about 5 minutes steady and choose what feels right - and then look at the reading rather than the other way around. Adjust as necessary and then you get to know the feeling.


thanks mike, I will do so.



OWSI said:


> I am new at cycling also.... I see a cadence meter and a HRM as tools.
> I try to keep my cadence at 90 RPM. I use the HRM to set my pace, changing gears to keep cadence and HR in the ranges that I desire. For me a HRM keeps me from over doing things and having to stop to recover to complete the last couple of miles. I don't know if this is the best way to do things, but so far it is working for me.


Good tip OWSI thanks.


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## Guest

Creakyknees said:


> According to the data from my SRM, it's 98.
> 
> I feel "bogged down" at anything below 90.
> 
> Though, sometimes, with tired legs or an slight tailwind / downhill, it's nice to put in a big gear and turn over the pedals slowly but with effort.


On steep or tailwind-assisted downhills you'll reach a point where pedaling will be counterproductive due to more aerodynamic drag as compared w/ coasting. In cases near the "borderline" where you want a little bit more speed than what you could get with just coasting but don't want to waste too much energy I find it's more efficient to alternate between intervals of intense pedaling and intervals of coasting. For these sorts of very quick on-and-off efforts I find I do better leaving the bike in a taller gear at lower cadence than If I were pedaling continuously.


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## JCavilia

Giffs said:


> I feel like I might be pedalling too slowly when in my highest (most difficult) gears.


How much are you riding in those gears, and when? Unless you're pedaling down some moderate slopes or drafting behind other cyclists or vehicles, you probably shouldn't be in those gears.

Most new riders pedal too slowly. Shift down and work on learning to spin.


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## AndrwSwitch

104.  Although I find I pedal more slowly during group rides, when I'm drafting a lot.

Seriously, though, I didn't get a cadence sensor until pretty recently. You don't actually need one, although it's nice to have, to work on pedaling technique, compare the size of your... cadence on the internet, etc.

When you're riding along, try shifting down a gear and see how it feels. If you start bouncing around in the saddle or you can't put any power into your bike, it's too low a gear. But most of us are going to be most efficient just one or two gears higher than that. Pedaling should feel like you're spinning the crank, rather than alternately pushing each side. 

If you want to know how fast you're pedaling and you have a watch with a second hand, you can count the number of times your right knee comes up in fifteen seconds and multiply by four. Something along those lines. Obviously this has the disadvantage that it takes your eyes off the road. So exercise caution. Personally, I pretty much only count cadence that way if I'm on a trainer. I find my sense of how fast I'm pedaling to be very subjective, enough that I wouldn't trust the cadence I self-report. So quantifying is helpful if I want to compare it to a recommendation somewhere, a target for a drill, etc.


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## RaptorTC

I had never ridden with a cadence meter until just this past weekend. I had always just plodded around at what felt the best to me. I did a 15 min tt on cycleops bikes with my team on Sunday and found that my cadence was right around 100 while I was going hard for max power and around 85 when I was just tooling along during the easy sections of my warm up. I'd imagine this is similar to what I do out on the road with my cadence being around 100 while going hard or riding solo and then dropping it down to 85-90ish while I'm sitting in on a draft. Also, I drop my cadence a bit on climbs.


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## woodys737

Alex Simmons is a regular poster here on RBR and very astute. I took the liberty to cut and paste a post he wrote in another thread that can be read HERE regarding cadence. The context was slightly different in that the OP was asking what happens to power when not at "optimal cadence". I think the quote is worth a read for those new to cadence. I couldn't say it any better than this: 


> Originally quoted from Alex_Simmons/RST...IOW, cadence (per se) is a red herring. Focus on effort level (power) and choose a suitable gear, and/or one that is specific to the circumstances you might face in your goal event(s).


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## wim

Completely agree with Alex. There's a lot of misinformation thrown out about cadence (like "higher cadences are more efficient") which sometimes leads beginners to immediately try to pedal at a certain cadence at all times. That simply doesn't work. For one, higher cadences don't come natural—they must be trained for many months, if not years.

The other problem is that higher cadences really only work for you if you are also able to generate a significant amount power. So someone who can hold 250 watt forever telling a 100-watt rider beginner to just ride at a cadence of 90-100 might not be helpful, especially if that beginner is trying to keep up with a group of faster riders. Point to the OP being: slowly work towards higher cadences as you get stronger, and vary your cadence to fit the task at hand.


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## mmoose

And 'optimal cadence', if there really is such a thing, is something that I only pay attention to on 'performance days', and even then, only for the first 2/3 of the ride or so.
If I'm training, I want to work harder. Working inefficient is one way to do that. Riding an older (heavy) bike is another. Riding single speed is a great training tool. (ok, I don't really have a single speed, but there are some rides where I just don't shift...) And like others have said, it's a skill thing. It takes practice, but it's worth while. Play around on the flats and hills, solo and in a group and find out how your body reacts.

But it sounds like the OP is just getting started, so building up more saddle time and longer rides on the weekends would be the current target. Worry about perfection later.


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## heybrady

Been riding about 18 months on the road, but remember the first time I went out with cadence computer. Found myself right around 80. I worked (still am) to get up in the high 80's regularly. Above 90 I feel that I lose power, but below 85 I feel I am using too much effort. After a couple months of riding, I can judge my cadence pretty accurately without looking at the computer. 

Everyone is different, but I would say to target 90 and go from there. You may be comfortable at 85 or 95, but go with what feels right.


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## MPov

I am usually between 90 and 110. On the flats I generally try to find a gear that allows me to maintain this cadence while maximizing speed. Lower and I feel I am pushing too hard, higher and I feel like I am spinning but not maintaining optimum speed.


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## gte105u

I have found on my road bike I get the bet results somewhere between 92-95 rpm. Faster and I usually can do better by shifting, slower and I am bogging down. Big variables for terrain, wind, and fatigue though. Another variable not mentioned much is your gearing. Depending on your cassette, you may have big jumps between the number of teeth at the larger cogs. This can mean, especially on a hill, that you may have a hard time hitting your sweet spot. When it is all said and done there is no rule.

Another thing I am not sure if it is common or not is I find my preferred cadence is different between my road bike and my cyclocross bike. By that I mean on similar terrain in similar conditions both on the road, I prefer to spin a bit higher on my cross bike than on my road. It may have to do with the gearing, but I imagine it has more to do with the fit and setup of the two bikes. As I said, on my road bike I prefer low-mid 90's while on my cross I prefer 96-98 rpm. The short answer is there is not single answer.


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## charlox5

I recently got a cadence meter and started paying attention to cadence during my rides, looking to stay between 90-100, especially on climbs. i'm pretty out of shape compared to a few months back, but i'm as fast (well, relative to myself) as ever after focusing on technique. I gather i was climbing at 75-80 rpm before, which would blow out my legs for climbs later in my ride, now at 95-100 my splits up the hills that come later in the ride are much faster.


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## MercRidnMike

Giffs,

As you can tell, there are a lot of differing opinions on the subject. I have heard from so many people that 80-100 rpm is ideal that I'd suspect there is something behind it. I think there will be some personal preference and individuality there, but that range seems to be the most typical.

As a Clyde class rider (>200 lbs) coming onto the asphalt from years of mountain biking only, I can tell you that for me, 85 rpm puts me at a comfortable pace I can do all day (quite literally...having done a 125 mile road rode on a full suspension mountain bike in ~9 hrs). With my cross bike, I tend to spin a little faster (probably due to less rolling resistance rather than anything else) and I suspect I'll be closer to 90 rpm on the road bike when I get a chance to put more miles under its tires.

If you are new to riding, get out there and ride for a while first. Find a comfortable gear and pedal smoothly...don't mash the pedals, but don't spin so fast you feel like you're bumping up and down. You want to get riding muscles first...then you can program them for your ideal cadence when you're a bit more comfortable on the bike.


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## AJL

42!

Sorry, it just had to be said.


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## stanseven

Good study showing 90 on flats and 70 on hills for elite pro's on three week events



> LUCÍA, A., J. HOYOS, and J. L. CHICHARRO. Preferred pedalling cadence in professional cycling. Med. Sci. Sports Exerc., Vol. 33, No. 8, 2001, pp. 1361-1366.
> 
> Purpose: The aim of this investigation was to evaluate the preferred cycling cadence of professional riders during competition.
> 
> Methods: We measured the cadence of seven professional cyclists (28 ± 1 yr) during 3-wk road races (Giro d'Italia, Tour de France, and Vuelta a España) involving three main competition requirements: uphill cycling (high mountain passes of ∼15 km, or HM); individual time trials of ∼50 km on level ground (TT); and flat, long (∼190 km) group stages (F). Heart rate (HR) data were also recorded as an indicator of exercise intensity during HM, TT, and F.
> 
> Results: Mean cadence was significantly lower (P < 0.01) during HM (71.0 ± 1.4 rpm) than either F and TT (89.3 ± 1.0 and 92.4 ± 1.3 rpm, respectively). HR was similar during HM and TT (157 ± 4 and 158 ± 3 bpm) and in both cases higher (P < 0.01) than during F (124 ± 2 bpm).
> 
> Conclusion: During both F and TT, professional riders spontaneously adopt higher cadences (around 90 rpm) than those previously reported in the majority of laboratory studies as being the most economical. In contrast, during HM they seem to adopt a more economical pedalling rate (∼70 rpm), possibly as a result of the specific demands of this competition phase.


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## perpetuum_mobile

Oprah should ask LA what is the best cadence going uphill. Too bad we cannot submit questions. (Sorry, I could not resist)

If seriously:
high cadence (95-110) = more power but less efficient 
(more oxygen and calories consumed per W of useful power produced)

low cadence (75-90) = more efficient but cannot reach high w/kg

There have been scientific studies that showed that 75rpm is the most efficient cadence. That is a good number if you are aiming for a RAAM or a long multiday tour where you are riding 8+ hours a day. 

If you are doing short TTs or crits or road races you don't need to be efficient. You can sacrifice metabolic efficiency to get more W per kg. For 1-3h hard effort the optimal cadence is around 105. All recent 1h records have been done in proximity of 105.


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## bwbishop

I average in the low to mid 90's. Feels good to me.


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## stanseven

perpetuum_mobile said:


> If you are doing short TTs or crits or road races you don't need to be efficient. You can sacrifice metabolic efficiency to get more W per kg. For 1-3h hard effort the optimal cadence is around 105. All recent 1h records have been done in proximity of 105.


Can you cite studies for that? Everything I've read is 85 + or - 5 is the optimal tt cadence


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## vautrain

It's a little bit like "How much weight should I be lifting?" The answer is, it's personal, but you should have goals, and as Kerry and others have pointed out, those goals are within a fairly limited range for most cyclists.

I am working on my own cadence goals, and have determined that while I often am in the wrong gear, my cranks are also too long for my inseam, and that's part of the reason my cadence tends to be below optimum. Fixing that.


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## GEARHEAD_ENG

That’s like asking what is the best RPM for a motor vehicle?

A Ford F-350 with a high torque 10 cylinder engine may cruise at 60mph at 1,800 RPM

A Ford Fiesta with a low torque 4 cylinder may cruise at 60mph at 3,200 RPM

So like a car, we can't say 90 RPM is the best cadence for everyone. Can you imagine a body builder spinning along at 110 RPM on a flat stretch? My guess is he could do it, but not for as long as if he spun at 75 RPM and utilized his torque instead of cardiovascular system.


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## arai_speed

stanseven said:


> Good study showing 90 on flats and 70 on hills for elite pro's on three week events


It's nice to know that I ride like a Pro! 

I can only do high 80s-90's on a climb if I'm trying to sprint, and only for short periods of time. 70's is MY magic number on climbs around 6% to 8% - much lower on anything above that.


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## JCavilia

stanseven said:


> Can you cite studies for that? Everything I've read is 85 + or - 5 is the optimal tt cadence


Not commenting on any studies, but observation of video of grand tour TT's clearly shows the winners generally at a higher cadence than that, upper 90's at least.

As for the hour records, the truth seems to be in between. Boardman's 2000 record of 49.44km, on a 54x14 gear, works out to about 102 rpm average. Sosenka's 49.7km in 2005 was on a 54x13, which computes to about 94 rpm. But he was an unusual rider, very tall (6'6") pushing 190mm cranks, so his optimum cadence may have been slower than for most.


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## serious

My optimal cadence is actually much lower than what is being discussed here. I do best around 78-82 rpm in terms of sustained power (as in 20m, 30m, FTP). And my average cadence on my road rides is around 70 rpm (like the average for high mountain stages).

But I tend to train for a lower cadence since I am a sigle speed mountain biker and need a climbing profile (rather than TT profile). And I am a poor spinner anyway.


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## MrMook

I started "road biking" this summer on my single speed (46/17 with 175mm cranks), and only recently got a proper road bike with gears. I'm so used to mashing along at a low cadence (and still do on my commutes with the SS), that I'm having trouble spinning. I can't get over the SS pride or whatever, and keep thinking that high cadence is for wimps, thinking I can go faster if I mash a higher gear. I'm working through that, but so far it's been the most difficult thing to overcome as I adapt to the new bike.

I like the car analogy though. Each car has it's own powerband, and will produce more HP and torque at certain rpms in certain gear ratios. To follow that analogy, it's almost like I'm gunning the engine from a stop light in 4th gear, thinking it will make me faster off the line, whereas shifting will actually get me there faster and more efficiently.

Not to thread-jack, but thanks for all the replies. It's been a very useful thread for a new rider like me.


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## Blackbeerthepirate

Optimal cadence is going to be different for everyone depending on fitness. 

I was trying to teach someone that spinning a higher cadence might make her rides easier. One day we were riding and she focused on keeping her heart rate in a target zone, shifting up and down to do so. She found a cadence sweet spot in the high seventies, low eighties. Her speed increased and she rode for four hours, her longest ride. 

I ride with someone now, new to road riding. She spins high eighties, low nineties and can ride forever.

Optimal cadence is a personal thing, and will change as fitness levels change. Try not to go by someones number. Find out what works best for you.


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## dnice

Blackbeerthepirate said:


> Optimal cadence is going to be different for everyone depending on fitness.
> 
> I was trying to teach someone that spinning a higher cadence might make her rides easier. One day we were riding and she focused on keeping her heart rate in a target zone, shifting up and down to do so. She found a cadence sweet spot in the high seventies, low eighties. Her speed increased and she rode for four hours, her longest ride.
> 
> I ride with someone now, new to road riding. She spins high eighties, low nineties and can ride forever.
> 
> Optimal cadence is a personal thing, and will change as fitness levels change. Try not to go by someones number. Find out what works best for you.


this seems to work best for me, as well. what i noticed is that if my HR is controlled within a certain range, especially during strenuous climbs, then i am able to recover better, and ride longer. typically for me, spinning high cadence on climbs equals lower HR. also interesting to compare caloric output with HR in target zones and then without over the same route. when i maintain target hr and spin up hills, i have lower caloric output. while i know the caloric counter is not gospel, it's an interesting observation nonetheless.


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## Kerry Irons

Blackbeerthepirate said:


> Optimal cadence is going to be different for everyone depending on fitness.
> 
> Optimal cadence is a personal thing, and will change as fitness levels change.


It is much more accurate to say that it is a skill that can be developed. And it should be developed. Higher cadences shift the work load from the muscles to the cardiovascular system. Higher cadences reduce joint strain. Higher cadences make better use of gears. Higher cadences allow quick response to speed changes.


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## Herbie

The problem for someone new to cycling and some others is that if you don't get used to spinning you will never really know what your best RPM is. Spinning is not natural which is why some many beginners have to learn and work at it. Once you master the skill you can then make an informed decision as to what is best for you.

My experience with ultra riders such as RAAM is that the solo riders expecially pay very close attention to their RPM and tend to stay at 90 or above on flats. As Kerry said it puts less strain on your legs which was very important to me when I was competing.

My experience is that very few people are really accurate as to their cadance without a reading on the computer. Yes you can measure by counting and a watch, but that gives your cadance for that minute, when you are really paying attention. As for feel, some days your legs are better than others. Percieved effort is not a good measure in my experience.

For a beginner, or someone interested in long distance, the goal is to use the higest gear you can turn without strain at 90 or so. 

Personally I am good within 85 to 105. My optimal cadance range is 95 to 100


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## JoelS

Blackbeerthepirate said:


> Optimal cadence is going to be different for everyone depending on fitness.
> 
> I was trying to teach someone that spinning a higher cadence might make her rides easier. One day we were riding and she focused on keeping her heart rate in a target zone, shifting up and down to do so. She found a cadence sweet spot in the high seventies, low eighties. Her speed increased and she rode for four hours, her longest ride.
> 
> I ride with someone now, new to road riding. She spins high eighties, low nineties and can ride forever.
> 
> Optimal cadence is a personal thing, and will change as fitness levels change. Try not to go by someones number. Find out what works best for you.


Yup. My happy "ride all day" cadence is 115 to 120. I'm real happy in a 34/16 at 20 mph. 

My wife has a very happy "ride all day" cadence of about 65-70. 

Everyone is different. Rack up the miles. Experiment. You'll eventually find what works best for you.


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## Blackbeerthepirate

Kerry Irons said:


> It is much more accurate to say that it is a skill that can be developed. And it should be developed. Higher cadences shift the work load from the muscles to the cardiovascular system. Higher cadences reduce joint strain. Higher cadences make better use of gears. Higher cadences allow quick response to speed changes.


Absolutely true! 
All I'm saying is that until a certain skill, fitness level is achieved, spinning too high can be counter-productive. Too high or too low a cadence are going to be a personal thing. No number is right for everyone. Finding what works for you is the important part. 
A lot of riders are coming from MTBs or single speeds where mashing a big gear is normal. To many like this, or new to road cycling, high cadence is almost counter-intuitive. 
IMHO a higher cadence is quickest way for a newer cyclist to improve efficiency. To some it comes naturally. Some, as Kerry said, have to develop that skill.


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## Mike T.

Blackbeerthepirate said:


> Too high or too low a cadence are going to be a personal thing. No number is right for everyone. Finding what works for you is the important part.
> IMHO a higher cadence is quickest way for a newer cyclist to improve efficiency. To some it comes naturally. Some, as Kerry said, have to develop that skill.


This is why lots of us here have given a range (80-100rpm) of what is "right". It's been proven physiologically that pedaling within this range is best (for most people and no, I can't provide those studies). I never check my cadence as I know what's right (for me) and I'll guarantee, unless I run out of gears (high or low) that I'll be within that range. I feel best at 90rpm but I'm sure I'm at 80 or 100 many times even though I might have lower or higher gears left to use. 80rpm feels ok when I'm chugging up a hill (even though I could drop a gear and rev higher) and 100rpm feels ok when I'm descending or with a tailwind (even though I could raise it a gear and rev lower).

So, to reiterate to the cadence newbies - pedal where it feels comfortable but you really should work on developing the skill to be almost always within the 80-100 range. And when you check your rpm (count one-foot revs for 15 secs and multiply by 4) and compare it to the Holy Grail you will be committing the cadence to your brain. After a while you just won't need a cadence monitor or counting rpm; you'll just know you're ok.


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## looigi

Mike T. said:


> This is why lots of us here have given a range (80-100rpm) of what is "right". ....


Agree. I average right at 90 rpm. Riding alone it's generally pretty steady with some variation going up or down hills. If I'm riding with a fast group that challenges me, there's much more variation, speeding up to 100-110 when I'm working hard to keep up and decreasing to around 80 when the group slows down, but I still average around 90. I've been riding for many years off and on and find that when I get started riding again after a long hiatus (years) my cadence averages more like 80. As I get fitter, it increases.


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## jnbrown

I recently got a cadence sensor to use with my Garmin.
I pretty much already knew my cadence was in the 90s on flats but not sure what it was going up hill. Found out it was about 70. I was watching some video of Contador riding uphill and he is in the 80s which is pretty amazing especially standing up. I am finding I can do 70 to 80 uphill unless it is really steep then it can drop to 60. For some reason cadence feels higher than it actually is when riding uphill.


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## brucew

Zero is my favorite cadence. Coasting. 

After working my up a climb, I enjoy that downhill coasting.

It's also the whole reason I don't own a fixie.


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## gte105u

Did a little experiment this morning in my ride. I slowed down my cadence while standing going up a hill. Found if I dropped it by about 5 rpm I could keep pushing a little longer and stay standing better. Accomplished it with shifting to one harder gear. Felt firmer, less like running on sand if that makes sense.


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## Donn12

Right after I got my bike I got a garmin w/ cadence sensor. I always tried to keep my cadence at 90 and I think it has helped me a lot.


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## superg

My legs like to go at around 85-87. 87 is on of my favorite numbers, btw. Go Sid !


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## TT-CX

93 works best for me.


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## serious

Personally I cannot understand why anyone would aim to keep the same cadence throughout the ride. Varying the cadence (especially when the grade changes) is important to me, unless I am on some interval and try to do a CP30 or CP60.


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## wim

serious said:


> Personally I cannot understand why anyone would aim to keep the same cadence throughout the ride.


Usually, the reason is following bad advice handed down in popular cycling literature from generation to generation. But it's not a big deal, because people staying with the sport sooner or later figure out that there is no such thing as a "best cadence."


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