# Handbuilt Wheels - Custom or Pre-Configured.



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

*Handbuilt Wheels - Custom or Pre-Configured?*

Hi all,

I am looking to buy some new wheels. I live in San Diego, CA and encounter climbing during all of my rides. I am 5'10" and weigh 180 pounds and am looking to ditch my EC90 SLs. I currently run 25mm Conti Gp4000s but am thinking of going to 23mm. I ride about 150 miles per week and this would be my primary wheelset. I have a back-up set of Fulcrums that I have never used. They weigh in at about 1700 grams and they will be used going forward. I ride solo during the week and do a social group ride on Saturdays that is 40 to 60 miles with 2500' to 4500' of climbing from 15 to 17 mph, if that makes a difference. I do not race. Looks are not that important but I would like the wheels to match my black, red, and white Focus. Basically, i would like an aluminum brake track

I like the way the Eastons look but I have melted the front and the rear once each. The rims been replaced under warranty so I am looking to sell the wheelset. 

I am looking to keep my expenditure around $1000 and stumbled across a few sites that seem to do what I want: offer pre-configured wheels in the ~1300 gram range from an experienced wheelbuilder. Those include Sugar, Zen (I think orders are on hiatus though), ROL, Boyd, Chris King, or wheelbuilder.com or just have my shop take care of the build.

I am thinking of White Industries T11, DT Swiss 240s, or Chris King R45s with Sapim CX-Rays, Lazers or maybe Aerolite spokes laced to HED C2 Belgium 20/24 (F/R) or...?

Or...just get Shimano 9000 C24s for $860 from competitive cyclist and call it a day?

What would you do and why? 

Thanks in advance. Please let me know if you require any additional details

Best,

Will


----------



## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

Z6_esb said:


> I am looking to keep my expenditure around $1000 and stumbled across a few sites that seem to do what I want: offer pre-configured wheels in the ~1300 gram range from an experienced wheelbuilder. Those include Sugar, Zen (I think orders are on hiatus though), ROL, Boyd, Chris King, or wheelbuilder.com or just have my shop take care of the build.
> 
> I am thinking of White Industries T11, DT Swiss 240s, or Chris King R45s with Sapim CX-Rays, Lazers or maybe Aerolite spokes laced to HED C2 Belgium 20/24 (F/R) or...?
> 
> ...


Campy Record hubs, Velocity A23/A23 OC rims, 32 spoke (DT Revolution). $530 for parts.

Why? Super light weight means little to someone who weighs 180 lbs. (like you and me) unless you are racing at the highest level of professional competition. Campy hubs last forever and roll as well as anything out there (and better than most). These wheels are very durable, control lateral flex for good cornering, and can be repaired very easily at low cost. 1300 gm. wheels at your weight are not going to be anywhere near as durable, but to each his own.


----------



## ngl (Jan 22, 2002)

Will, Before you get rid of the Eastons (and regret your desision) I recommend installing your Fulcrums and comparing them to the Eastons and then if possible, try a friend's wheels out (maybe let him try your Eastons). My thoughts are that you may find you like the carbon wheels the best. I run carbon clinchers and find they are nicer than any aluminum wheels I have ever used. This is just my opinion.

Secondly, maybe find out why are you melting the rims? This is not common. Where you using the wrong brake pads? Holding the brakes on too long?


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Z6_esb said:


> I am thinking of White Industries T11, DT Swiss 240s, or Chris King R45s with Sapim CX-Rays, Lazers or maybe Aerolite spokes laced to HED C2 Belgium 20/24 (F/R) or...? What would you do and why?


Chuck my fave Shimano Dura-Ace hubs into the mix, build 'em yourself and I'd be so happy I could just **** !!


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Kerry Irons said:


> Campy Record hubs, Velocity A23/A23 OC rims, 32 spoke (DT Revolution). $530 for parts.
> 
> Why? Super light weight means little to someone who weighs 180 lbs. (like you and me) unless you are racing at the highest level of professional competition. Campy hubs last forever and roll as well as anything out there (and better than most). These wheels are very durable, control lateral flex for good cornering, and can be repaired very easily at low cost. 1300 gm. wheels at your weight are not going to be anywhere near as durable, but to each his own.


So you think going to 24/28 putting me up to 1450 grams or so is the weigh (pun) to go?


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

ngl said:


> Will, Before you get rid of the Eastons (and regret your desision) I recommend installing your Fulcrums and comparing them to the Eastons and then if possible, try a friend's wheels out (maybe let him try your Eastons). My thoughts are that you may find you like the carbon wheels the best. I run carbon clinchers and find they are nicer than any aluminum wheels I have ever used. This is just my opinion.
> 
> Secondly, maybe find out why are you melting the rims? This is not common. Where you using the wrong brake pads? Holding the brakes on too long?


I use the recommended yellow swiss stops that came with wheels and do a 4 second braking sequence. Your comment makes think the AL track on the C24 may be a good compromise?


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Mike T. said:


> Chuck my fave Shimano Dura-Ace hubs into the mix, build 'em yourself and I'd be so happy I could just **** !!


Thanks, that is an option also: Lucky 7 | Sugar Wheel Works


----------



## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Z6_esb said:


> I am thinking of White Industries T11, DT Swiss 240s, or Chris King R45s with Sapim CX-Rays, Lazers or maybe Aerolite spokes laced to HED C2 Belgium 20/24 (F/R) or...?


Great ideas. Go with DT Swiss 240. Lower weight than my other favorite Dura Ace hubs, and as reliable and easily serviced.

Contact Wheelbuilder in El Monte, CA. Do it by phone, and ask for their best price. If you can find lower prices on the parts, then they will price match. Exceptional service from Wheelbuilder.com.


----------



## coachboyd (Jan 13, 2008)

Z6_esb said:


> I use the recommended yellow swiss stops that came with wheels and do a 4 second braking sequence.


Get rid of those pads! 
Those are the worst for building up heat while descending. Switch to the Black Prince by Swissstop, they are much better than their yellow models.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

coachboyd said:


> Get rid of those pads!
> Those are the worst for building up heat while descending. Switch to the Black Prince by Swissstop, they are much better than their yellow models.


even though Easton recommends them on the website? Or did the Black Prince pads come out after the wheel was engineered?

I have some Kool-Stop Dura Type (blacks) lying around. Would those be better?


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Kerry Irons said:


> Campy Record hubs, Velocity A23/A23 OC rims, 32 spoke (DT Revolution). $530 for parts.
> 
> Why? Super light weight means little to someone who weighs 180 lbs. (like you and me) unless you are racing at the highest level of professional competition. Campy hubs last forever and roll as well as anything out there (and better than most). These wheels are very durable, control lateral flex for good cornering, and can be repaired very easily at low cost. 1300 gm. wheels at your weight are not going to be anywhere near as durable, but to each his own.


Thanks, I appreciate your response. I will look into.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

tvad said:


> Great ideas. Go with DT Swiss 240. Lower weight than my other favorite Dura Ace hubs, and as reliable and easily serviced.
> 
> Contact Wheelbuilder in El Monte, CA. Do it by phone, and ask for their best price. If you can find lower prices on the parts, then they will price match. Exceptional service from Wheelbuilder.com.


thanks, I've been on the site. 5 to 605 isn't that far. Worth traveling to or just give them a ring?


----------



## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Z6_esb said:


> thanks, I've been on the site. 5 to 605 isn't that far. Worth traveling to or just give them a ring?


Call 'em.


----------



## coachboyd (Jan 13, 2008)

Z6_esb said:


> even though Easton recommends them on the website? Or did the Black Prince pads come out after the wheel was engineered?
> 
> I have some Kool-Stop Dura Type (blacks) lying around. Would those be better?


Yeah, when those wheels came out the yellow pads were considered to be the best, and it was a selling point to include them. But those pads build up a lot of heat and were causing wheel failures in a lot of brands (ours included). One of the reasons carbon clincher tech has advanced so much in the past two years in regards to heat build up is the advancement of brake pads that help keep the temps cooler. We have done a lot of testing with various brake pads and it's amazing to see the difference they can make.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

coachboyd said:


> Yeah, when those wheels came out the yellow pads were considered to be the best, and it was a selling point to include them. But those pads build up a lot of heat and were causing wheel failures in a lot of brands (ours included). One of the reasons carbon clincher tech has advanced so much in the past two years in regards to heat build up is the advancement of brake pads that help keep the temps cooler. We have done a lot of testing with various brake pads and it's amazing to see the difference they can make.


Thanks very much, I'll try them out.


----------



## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

I found the Kool-stop carbon pads to be the *worst brake pad ever*, and I have tried most of them. Braking was poor, they were incredibly noisy and were losing large chunks by the end of an easy 2 hour ride with no descents. This was on Reynolds carbon rims. I took them off and threw them away.

The Swiss Stop Blacks work pretty well.

If you get new wheels the Shimano C24s have a good reputation. For custom, if you're not hard on wheels then 24/28 spokes on a reasonably stiff rim will be fine. Super light aluminium rims need more spokes to make a reliable wheel. Check out Fairwheel's rim review: https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/reviews-and-testing/alloy-rim-roundup/page/2/

For hubs, DA and White Ind are both good reliable hubs. 

If you want to build your own, BikeHubStore's hubs are much cheaper than Whites and nearly as good (and are lighter). They also carry rims and spokes at good prices.


----------



## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

IMO, there could many great hub/wheel combinations you could use and be 100% happy with. As many have posted before, buying a handbuilt wheel that uses "easy to get parts" makes your investment much better over the long haul. As compared to proprietary wheels, where you may be fine, but the first spoke breakage (and who can really predict if and when?) will sideline the wheels waiting for parts. You may go a long time without problems on the C-24s, but if you have "that" unfortunate event, and need to replace spokes or a rim, it could be a long wait, "if" parts are available still ( I have Campy tubular wheels here that are 20+ years old, and still ride them). 

If you like wrenching and have a preference for cleaning / greasing / adjusting ball bearings yourself, go with Dura-Ace. Otherwise, T-11 seems hard to beat, especially if your shop services the hubs. All the Sugar wheels hubs appear to be great choices, though. 

I think any decent quality hubs will go 4000-10000 miles, some cheaper ones probably less. It appears the real differences show up when you want 20K ++ miles from a wheelset. Parts availability 5 years down the road, especially for freehub components, is something to consider when paying close to $1K. 

I like practical wheels, really don't like hassles with tweaking brake pads, etc. The HED C2 seems be a great all around choice there, especially if you like easy tire changes and no plans for tubeless.


----------



## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

For the non-racer, as the OP stated to be, I personally don't see any tangible reason to prefer a top shelf big name racing wheel built out of proprietary components over a custom handbuilt wheel using conventional good quality components.

The former, have perfected the stiffness-to-weight ratio to levels very difficult, if not impossible, to attain with conventional components and building techniques. However, if racing at the top levels is not the intent, the sacrifice of durability, longevity and ease of maintainability may not warrant the incremental performance increase if a sensible choice is to be made, simply because such increase in performance may be insignificant for the typical Sunday club ride. However, to each his own, and often the decision is not based on value but rather on indulgence. Nothing wrong with that as long it is well understood.


----------



## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

I agree re swapping out the brake pads for a better formulation (would also consider enve pads or the new reynolds pads). I melted a few rims back in the day with Yellow Swisstops. Thought I wouldn't go back to carbon clincher until I tried the new Reynolds attack (1360 grams). Wider also means lower pressure, so heat buildup issues with tubes isn't as much of an issue. I'm now using the powertap amp version of the reynolds rim and have done lots of steep, technical descents without an issue.

The only caveat I'd have re trying a new brake pad is if you often descend Palomar. 

This might be heretical on this site, but I don't quite get spending $1000 on a handbuilt alloy rim wheel. Most of the money is in the hubs, and there are less expensive hubs that do as good a job and are fine re durability. The Reynolds attack (the new model) can be found for not much more, and you get a wide, light, carbon rim. The Shimano wheel is a good option for a light wheelset - this might be heretical too, but a light wheelset just feels better climbing, especially on a climb like Palomar near you where there's lots of accelerations out of switchbacks etc.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Thanks for all of your responses, I appreciate it. I'll do some more research and see what's what. Hopefully the heat issues will be solved by a new pad formulation. 


Thanks again!


----------



## changingleaf (Aug 20, 2009)

You can't go wrong with the Belgium rims. All of those hubs are great choices. The DT 240 hubs have come down in price and become a very good value. The color choices of the other hubs may give you a reason to choose them instead.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Z'mer said:


> IMO, there could many great hub/wheel combinations you could use and be 100% happy with. As many have posted before, buying a handbuilt wheel that uses "easy to get parts" makes your investment much better over the long haul. As compared to proprietary wheels, where you may be fine, but the first spoke breakage (and who can really predict if and when?) will sideline the wheels waiting for parts. You may go a long time without problems on the C-24s, but if you have "that" unfortunate event, and need to replace spokes or a rim, it could be a long wait, "if" parts are available still ( I have Campy tubular wheels here that are 20+ years old, and still ride them).
> 
> If you like wrenching and have a preference for cleaning / greasing / adjusting ball bearings yourself, go with Dura-Ace. Otherwise, T-11 seems hard to beat, especially if your shop services the hubs. All the Sugar wheels hubs appear to be great choices, though.
> 
> ...


Are the spokes proprietary on the C-24s?


----------



## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

The HED Belgium rims are very nice, but you can only buy them in 24, 28, and 32 holes for custom builds. The H Plus Archetype is not too different if you want a 20 spoke front wheel.

I agree with the others about proprietary parts on many factory wheels.


----------



## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

Z6_esb said:


> Are the spokes proprietary on the C-24s?


Yes, same for rims.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Z'mer said:


> Yes, same for rims.


Shimano makes their own spokes or are they CX-Rays (or whichever) cut to certain sizes?


----------



## deviousalex (Aug 18, 2010)

ericm979 said:


> If you get new wheels the Shimano C24s have a good reputation. For custom, if you're not hard on wheels then 24/28 spokes on a reasonably stiff rim will be fine. Super light aluminium rims need more spokes to make a reliable wheel.


Aren't the C24s super light aluminum rims with a low spoke count? This is why I'd stay away from those.



Z'mer said:


> I think any decent quality hubs will go 4000-10000 miles, some cheaper ones probably less.


If I spent >$400 on WI, DT Swiss, Chris King, etc hubs and only got 10k miles I'd be really pissed off. That's like 1 year of riding.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

deviousalex said:


> Aren't the C24s super light aluminum rims with a low spoke count? This is why I'd stay away from those.
> 
> 
> 
> If I spent >$400 on WI, DT Swiss, Chris King, etc hubs and only got 10k miles I'd be really pissed off. That's like 1 year of riding.


the c-24s are carbon clinchers with aluminum brake track.

I'd be pissed too if I only got 10K miles but I think that's after a relube?


----------



## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Z6_esb said:


> the c-24s are carbon clinchers with aluminum brake track.


To be specific, they're carbon wrapped aluminum rims. The aluminum is thinner between the brake tracks, and the carbon stiffens the wheel in this area.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

tvad said:


> To be specific, they're carbon wrapped aluminum rims. The aluminum is thinner between the brake tracks, and the carbon stiffens the wheel in this area.


Thanks for this. I thought they were carbon with Al inlays. Learned something new!


----------



## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

I'm a big fan of custom wheels. After years of buying the latest and greatest pre-builts, I came to the conclusion that they're not a good deal. You can get a better wheel by going custom. I weigh bit more than you and recently went with HED Belgian rims (24/28), White Industries T11 hubs and Sapim cxray spokes. They've been great wheels.


----------



## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Z6_esb said:


> Thanks for this. I thought they were carbon with Al inlays. Learned something new!


You're welcome. I had the same misperception until someone here educated me.

Same aluminum/carbon construction for the C35. The C50 are all carbon rims.


----------



## deviousalex (Aug 18, 2010)

tvad said:


> The C50 are all carbon rims.


Shimano's clincher and tubular offerings are completely different rims even though they share the same name. The clincher C24/35/50 are all alloy rims with carbon "wrapped". The tubular version of the same are all carbon.


----------



## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

deviousalex said:


> Shimano's clincher and tubular offerings are completely different rims even though they share the same name. The clincher C24/35/50 are all alloy rims with carbon "wrapped". The tubular version of the same are all carbon.


I stand corrected.


----------



## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

deviousalex said:


> If I spent >$400 on WI, DT Swiss, Chris King, etc hubs and only got 10k miles I'd be really pissed off. That's like 1 year of riding.


So the complete original quote was 
_I think any decent quality hubs will go 4000-10000 miles, some cheaper ones probably less. It appears the real differences show up when you want 20K ++ miles from a wheelset. Parts availability 5 years down the road, especially for freehub components, is something to consider when paying close to $1K.

_So to explain - by "decent quality" I meant typical hubs you get with wheels on new bikes under $2.5K, or typical lightweight sealed cartridge bearing hubs you can get for around ballpark $125 / front rear pair. Not T11 or CK hubs. And also meant before *maintenance* is required, which could be re-lubing, or replacing bearings, NOT when the hubs need replacement. 

The point was you should expect to get T11 or CK quality, which would give 20K++ miles before maintenance for a $1K wheelset. 
 
Of course all this depends on conditions you ride in, etc. I personally like quality loose ball bearing hubs, and like that I can re-grease and adjust when needed. If you have a shop do everything, I probably suggest the best cartridge bearing hubs instead.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Z'mer said:


> So the complete original quote was
> _I think any decent quality hubs will go 4000-10000 miles, some cheaper ones probably less. It appears the real differences show up when you want 20K ++ miles from a wheelset. Parts availability 5 years down the road, especially for freehub components, is something to consider when paying close to $1K.
> 
> _So to explain - by "decent quality" I meant typical hubs you get with wheels on new bikes under $2.5K, or typical lightweight sealed cartridge bearing hubs you can get for around ballpark $125 / front rear pair. Not T11 or CK hubs. And also meant before *maintenance* is required, which could be re-lubing, or replacing bearings, NOT when the hubs need replacement.
> ...


Thanks for clarification; it make much more sense now.


----------



## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

All my self built wheels are Ultegra or DA, XT or XTR hubs. One 24 hole front road superlight-79.

Does anyone else think sealed non ball/race bearing hubs will not last as long the heavier the rider?


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

ordered some SwissStop Black Prince pads. Gave the rims a good cleaning. Hopefully the feel is better. Pads are due to arrive on Friday but it's supposed to rain into Saturday. Probably test out on Sunday.

Rain in San Diego...so exciting!

Thanks for all of your help. Have a great rest of the week and better weekend!


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

to resurrect my old thread, I am finally going to buy some handbuilt wheels. The brake pad upgrade helped on the Eastons but I just don't have the confidence descending. I put on my Fulcrum Quattros that came with my bike and have been riding those for a bit. The braking is great but at approx 1800 grams they are not the most responsive and feel a little soft.

I would have purchased my new wheels a while ago but my wheelset fund got drained by a failed and non-repairable washing machine and then the dog needed oral surgery...

Anyway, I have decided on HED C2 Belgium Plus Rims with DT 240 or WI T-11 hubs and CX-Ray (maybe aerolite) spokes. My question now is do I go with 20/24 or 24/28 front/rear spokes? For the 20/24 it would be radially spoked up front and 2x DS and 2x NDS on the rear. The 24/28 would be radial up front with 3x DS and 2x NDS on the rear. Suggestions welcomed.

I am 170 to 175lbs depending on the day, ride all sorts of terrain in San Diego all the time (all rides have climbing), and this will be my primary wheelset. My cadence is usually right around 80 rpms on a standard 40 mile ride with about 2500 to 3000 feet of climbing. 

Thanks!


----------



## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

The Hed C2+ with 24f/28r cx-ray are typically adequate for a rider at your weight and with a smooth pedal stroke. However, your statement regarding how soft the Quatro feel makes me think that if the Quatro with their 35mm rim and beefy spokes don't give you enough lateral stiffness neither will the Hed with 28 cx-ray or aerolite spokes. I would look towards replacing the cx-ray with Race spokes at the rear wheel; the DS as an absolute minimum, preferably both sides if you tend to tilt the bike when you stand up.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

dcgriz said:


> The Hed C2+ with 24f/28r cx-ray are typically adequate for a rider at your weight and with a smooth pedal stroke. However, your statement regarding how soft the Quatro feel makes me think that if the Quatro with their 35mm rim and beefy spokes don't give you enough lateral stiffness neither will the Hed with 28 cx-ray or aerolite spokes. I would look towards replacing the cx-ray with Race spokes at the rear wheel; the DS as an absolute minimum, preferably both sides if you tend to tilt the bike when you stand up.


thanks for your input, I appreciate it.


----------



## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

You can get away with 20/24 at your weight, but I'd go 24/28. It's a stronger wheel with really little extra weight or aero penalty. I've been ordering wheels with cxray spokes, but I think the Sapim Laser spokes are the way to go. A lot more bang for the buck. And I'm not a fan of radial laced front wheels. Another reason to do 24/28. Good choice of rims. I love the set I have with the wide HED Belgiums. Also a fan of White Industry hubs.


----------



## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

I had November build up my Belgian rims with their new Nimbus Ti (White Industries) hubs, and have been very happy so far.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

I want to thank everyone who contributed to helping me out. I really do appreciate it.


----------



## vtsteevo (Nov 12, 2015)

please share what you ended up with, total weight, etc


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

vtsteevo said:


> please share what you ended up with, total weight, etc


i haven't been able to purchase them. I was planning on selling by Easton EC90SLs but they have cracked nipples and I did not feel confident selling them. I am waiting for a warranty repair or just have to keep saving. I did decide to go with the T-11s with 20/24 and CX-Rays, weighing in at 1487. THe DT 240s would be a little lighter but I rode a mountain bike with DT 240s and that rear hub drove me nuts.


----------



## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

Z6_esb said:


> I did decide to go with the T-11s with 20/24 and CX-Rays, weighing in at 1487.


If you wanted more durability I'd suggest 20f and 28r. But 20f and 24r would likely be fine. 

You might also want to consider the Pacenti SL23 which would save some weight.


----------



## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

Pacenti SL23 from November Bicycles, with their house (White Ind) Ti hubs.


----------



## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

"THe DT 240s would be a little lighter but I rode a mountain bike with DT 240s and that rear hub drove me nuts."

Ha! That's the truth. 

Unless you're pretty light, I'd go 24/28. My wife has a set of Pacenti/T11/cxray wheels in 20/24, but she weighs 125 lbs. 8 more spokes isn't going to add all that much weight. And Laser spokes instead of cxrays can cut costs significantly without adding much weight. I've got a set of HED/T11/cxrays 24/28 that came in around 1500 grams. I really like those HED rims. 

Frankly, the best deal out there are the November wheel set. From what I can tell, the hubs are T11, but without the polished finish and the spokes are Laser.


----------



## vtsteevo (Nov 12, 2015)

I've been eyeing Pacenti SL23 as well... from a weight perspective, super light at 430g. But I hear that tires are a pain to put on, and the narrow brake track on the 2015 is a bit of a turn off
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/new-2015-pacenti-sl23-346292-4.html


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

vtsteevo said:


> I've been eyeing Pacenti SL23 as well... from a weight perspective, super light at 430g. But I hear that tires are a pain to put on, and the narrow brake track on the 2015 is a bit of a turn off.


Version 2 (2015) Pacenti SL23 are MUCH easier to fit tires to than v1. Of course technique is everything but when using the best technique I use a lever for getting the tire off; not for going on. There is no struggle.

The narrow brake track (8.5mm?) hasn't turned out to be much of a negative. My Ultegra pads fit just fine. Sure, alignment has to be done to the n'th degree but that's a one-time job on initial setup.


----------



## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

pmf said:


> "Unless you're pretty light, I'd go 24/28. My wife has a set of Pacenti/T11/cxray wheels in 20/24, but she weighs 125 lbs. 8 more spokes isn't going to add all that much weight.


I weigh 170 and if I could have gotten SL23s in 16h, then I'd be riding 16f and 20r. And they'd be more than adequate. But ya, you can use more spokes if you want. 

24f and 28r makes no sense though. The rear wheel has a much harder life with the dish and extra weight. Go 18f 24r, 20f 28r, 24f 32r, etc.


----------



## Z6_esb (Feb 16, 2012)

Resurrecting an old thread once again:

I finally pulled the trigger on my new wheelset. 20/28 Pacenti SL23 v2 with black WI T-11. Final weight on kitchen scale: 647g Front and 835g Rear for 1482g total with rim tape but no skewers.

I mounted some new Vittoria Open Pave 25mm to them...they are wide! I had to undo my brake cables to get them on the bike. Kool Stop Dura 2 black fit just about perfectly on the narrowish brake track!

It's raining here in San Diego (crazy, I know) so I've not been able to ride them. Very excited though. 

Thanks to everyone who gave their input on this build. i really do appreciate it.

Edit: For comparisons:

Easton EC90SL were about 1560g with rim tape. Don't remember breakdown.
Fulcrum WH-1700 OEM Wheelset (Racing Quattros are closest approximation) were 794g Front and 1014g Rear (1808 total) with rim tape

New wheels are about 80 grams lighter than Eastons and approx. 330 grams lighter than stock.


----------



## changingleaf (Aug 20, 2009)

Nice Build!


----------

