# Any gotchas for installing headsets and crown race? Cutting the steerer tube?



## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

I have three frames that I am starting a build on. A Titus Ti, a Colnago Ext C, and conversion from Shimano DA9 to Centaur. I need to install headsets and the race onto the fork and so I bought a headset press. Is there anything I should be mindful of when installing the Chris King headsets? Do I grease the cups (the thingies that go into the headtube?) Do I leave it dry? Loctite? Do I use different techniques for Carbon and Ti? What about the race? I don't have the Park tool for pounding the race onto the fork base. Can one buy a long steel pipe from HD or Lowes that has a 1 1/8 inner diameter and make do? How hard do I pound it? (smart assss remarks will be appreciated!  ) Once the final fitting adjustments are made, anything special about cutting carbon steerer tubes? I know enough not to just hack it. Tape the cut area with masking tape, but what kind of guide should I use? Any good sites that show all this stuff? Thanks.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

You should check what fit tolerance the headset maker suggests. King has those specs on its site. Measure the fit with vernier calipers before cup insertion (I wonder how many bike shops do this?) as all "interference" fits have specified tolerances. Park Tool shows the measuring technique on its site. If you're not within specs then the frame (or fork crown race seat) needs to be reamed.

Yes you grease the cups. Yes the crown race can be tapped on with a pipe - crown race installation tools are glorified pipes. We don't "pound" races or cups - we lovingly tap. Fits of the correct tolerance don't need any pounding.

Carbon steerer tubes should be cut with a carbide hacksaw blade, not a normal toothed one. I found one locally. I use a worm-drive hose clamp as a saw guide.

The Park Tool site will show you how to do the job and my own  site will give you headset tips, most of which are good for those who press cups in rather than use my normal method of tapping them in.


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## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

*You da man*

thanks


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## DanTourino (Oct 29, 2007)

Ride-Fly said:


> I have three frames that I am starting a build on. A Titus Ti, a Colnago Ext C, and conversion from Shimano DA9 to Centaur. I need to install headsets and the race onto the fork and so I bought a headset press. Is there anything I should be mindful of when installing the Chris King headsets? Do I grease the cups (the thingies that go into the headtube?) Do I leave it dry? Loctite? Do I use different techniques for Carbon and Ti? What about the race? I don't have the Park tool for pounding the race onto the fork base. Can one buy a long steel pipe from HD or Lowes that has a 1 1/8 inner diameter and make do? How hard do I pound it? (smart assss remarks will be appreciated!  ) Once the final fitting adjustments are made, anything special about cutting carbon steerer tubes? I know enough not to just hack it. Tape the cut area with masking tape, but what kind of guide should I use? Any good sites that show all this stuff? Thanks.


Man, I've done it all and most of those specialty tubes are a joke. Improvising works just as well. I have all the tools but actually prefer to make my own. For the headset, grease the part of the cup that will be sliding into the headtube and only intall one cup at a time!!! This will allow the opposing side od the press to sit flush against the headtube ensuring the cup goes in straight.

The method i use for cutting steer-tubes involves a Dremel with a thin grinding wheel, a piece of 220 grit sandpaper, and an Easton ea50 stem I bought off ebay for $1.50. I mark the tube where I want it cut, flip the stem to a negative drop, clamp it lightly and go medieval with a dremel until it is flush against the stem. Remove the stem and sand it level and remove the roughness with the 220 grit paper. Grease the crown race and take 1-1/2" PVC pipe and tap it into position or "Pound it into submission" it would be rather difficult to damage a fork installing a crown race.

All in all my advice is do not be afraid to tackle the job. It is much easier than you think and the carbon is easier to work with than your shop will lead you to believe. Ti is a breeze as well.


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## Guest (Apr 2, 2009)

I use a tubing cutter to cut steer tubes.


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## DanTourino (Oct 29, 2007)

toomanybikes said:


> I use a tubing cutter to cut steer tubes.


Tube cutters only work on alum/steel head tubes, youll dray and crack carbon with it in a hurry.....


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## Guest (Apr 2, 2009)

DanTourino said:


> Tube cutters only work on alum/steel head tubes, youll dray and crack carbon with it in a hurry.....



They work fine on any carbon tube I have used them on.

I use the tube cutter to score the tube and then finish the cut with a saw.

I am sure that you will now tell me this doesn't work.


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## DanTourino (Oct 29, 2007)

toomanybikes said:


> They work fine on any carbon tube I have used them on.
> 
> I use the tube cutter to score the tube and then finish the cut with a saw.
> 
> I am sure that you will now tell me this doesn't work.


I can if you'd like but i would HATE to embarrass you in a public forum!  Notice you had to expand on your method by adding "Finish with a saw." I'm sure that'd work just fine; however, not without the second half.


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## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

*DanT and TMB...*

thanks a bunch guys!!! this stuff (building up a bike is a lot of fun!!!) For cutting the steerer tube, I found a tube cutter at P-bike for $15. Think I'll get it. also, I saw that Nashbar has a race installer for $16 but with shipping and tax, it's $26. I was close to hitting the purchase button but I guess, I don't really need it, so I pulled up.


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## DanTourino (Oct 29, 2007)

Ride-Fly said:


> thanks a bunch guys!!! this stuff (building up a bike is a lot of fun!!!) For cutting the steerer tube, I found a tube cutter at P-bike for $15. Think I'll get it. also, I saw that Nashbar has a race installer for $16 but with shipping and tax, it's $26. I was close to hitting the purchase button but I guess, I don't really need it, so I pulled up.


Good call, the crown race tool is a crock but the steer tube cutter, at $15, is a great deal. Your LBS will probably charge you 10-15 to cut it and this way you're equipped for future builds. Building is awesome! Its cool to build your own bike but be careful, it gets both addicting and EXTREMELY expensive! I have gone through 10 bikes in one year, simply because I love to build and tailor them.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*no tube cutter...*

NEVER use a tube cutter on a carbon steerer. Assemble the whole thing as you intend to use it. Most brands recomend a 5mm spacer on top of the stem. Scribe a line at the top of this spacer, then cut slightly below it. You MUST have a small gap between the top spacer and the steering tube. Flush is WRONG.

Also, an ordinary 24-32 tpi hacksaw blade works fine, perhaps even better than a carbide grit blade.


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## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

*Cheap headset race press*

Get about 12 inches of threaded rod from Home Depot, about half inch diamater, two large washers and three bolts. Tighten two bolts against each other on one end of the rod and add a washer. Slide the threaded rod through the steerer tube, add the race, the other washer and the other bolt. Slightly snug the single bolt, check alignment, then tighten the bolt.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

I recently bought the Park Tool SG-6 Threadless Saw Guide. Like most of the Park Tool stuff, it's way over-priced, but I like nice tools and will use it a lot, so I don't mind. It works well.

As an aside, I also recently installed a star-fangled nut (yes, in an aluminum steerer  ) with the 'wing it' method. I subsequently bought Park TNS-4 Threadless Nut Setter and used it. Again, way over-priced, but a nice tool, and wow, what a difference.

And as C-40 points out (listen to him; he's always correct), definitely not flush. You do not want to be tightening the cap directly onto the steerer for a number of reasons.


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## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

C-40 said:


> NEVER use a tube cutter on a carbon steerer. Assemble the whole thing as you intend to use it. Most brands recomend a 5mm spacer on top of the stem. Scribe a line at the top of this spacer, then cut slightly below it. You MUST have a small gap between the top spacer and the steering tube. Flush is WRONG.
> 
> Also, an ordinary 24-32 tpi hacksaw blade works fine, perhaps even better than a carbide grit blade.


Actually, I meant a cutting guide, not a tube cutter. P-bike has a Spin Doctor version for only $13 like the one here http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=20410&subcategory_ID=4209 

Now starting to think whether or not I even need that- I like the various different techniques mentioned in this thread. The old stem and circular band clamp are frickin genius, I tell ya!


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## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

ogre said:


> Get about 12 inches of threaded rod from Home Depot, about half inch diamater, two large washers and three bolts. Tighten two bolts against each other on one end of the rod and add a washer. Slide the threaded rod through the steerer tube, add the race, the other washer and the other bolt. Slightly snug the single bolt, check alignment, then tighten the bolt.


I can't picture it.


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## Ride-Fly (Mar 27, 2002)

DanTourino said:


> Good call, the crown race tool is a crock but the steer tube cutter, at $15, is a great deal. Your LBS will probably charge you 10-15 to cut it and this way you're equipped for future builds. Building is awesome! Its cool to build your own bike but be careful, it gets both addicting and EXTREMELY expensive! I have gone through 10 bikes in one year, simply because I love to build and tailor them.


10 bikes in one year!?!? Hope you kept all of them!!! Otherwise, you are not feeding the sickness.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*another trick...*

I don't use a cutting guide. I scribe a line on the steerer and if I need to see it better, I use masking tape, wrapped around the steering tube. I also make a shallow cut all around the outside of the tube first, then gradually deepen the cut. That makes for a straighter cut the sawing from top to bottom.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Ride-Fly said:


> I can't picture it.


Replace the word 'bolt' with 'nut', then try.


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## pcxmbfj (Nov 11, 2002)

*Pressing King Races*

In my experience CK headsets required additional CK pressing adaptors for my Park HS press. 

The CK bearings (and some Cane Creek) have an angular shape that the Park standard does not have.

The other option is to press on the tops of the cups which needs to be done carefully.

I usually press one cup at a time.


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## yakky (May 7, 2008)

10 feet of SCD40 PVC pipe in 1/1/4 diameter is about $5 at home depot, works great. Another tip is to put the race in boiling water for a few minutes so it will expand. Take it out of the water quickly with pliers, slide on, and two taps with the pipe to the floor (fork to the air) and its done.


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## biketom5 (Oct 24, 2010)

Glad I searched this site _again_ with my questions...thanks everyone!!
I will now get down to business of building my 2011 Ritchey Break Away.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

These are two jobs I wouldn't hesitate getting help from a good shop. Mine cut the steerer for $5 in 10 minutes wait and they did a beautiful job. I set the crown race myself with PVC and a hammer; it is easier with proper tools.


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## tdawg183 (Oct 5, 2010)

I've got a question, I ordered a headset exactly similar in pieces to the image below to go into my carbon frame and fork that I'm building. There appears to be no "cup" to insert into the top or bottom of the head tube. Is it suppose to be like that?

Also, the crown race is a couple mm diameter difference (smaller) than the base of the fork tube. Do i need to have the fork machined down or do I force the crown race down? I wouldn't expect to have to use force but I've never installed a fork and was unsure of how much "tapping" was actually needed to get it seated correctly.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

tdawg183 said:


> I've got a question, I ordered a headset exactly similar in pieces to the image below to go into my carbon frame and fork that I'm building. There appears to be no "cup" to insert into the top or bottom of the head tube. Is it suppose to be like that?
> 
> Also, the crown race is a couple mm diameter difference (smaller) than the base of the fork tube. Do i need to have the fork machined down or do I force the crown race down? I wouldn't expect to have to use force but I've never installed a fork and was unsure of how much "tapping" was actually needed to get it seated correctly.


You might have a tapered fork that is not compatible with your headset, or it might just be the very slight difference in diameters that make up an interference or press fit. "Couple of mms" doesn't tell us much, but a picture of the problem would.


Another cutting method is to use a cheap alloy spacer as a cutting guide. After marking the steerer, slide the stem down low enough to put the spacer on top, just under the mark, then lock the stem. The spacer will slide and spin, but it isn't hard to get a really straight cut, and it doesn't require any special tooling. You can even use the spacer as long as you don't ding it up too much.


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## tdawg183 (Oct 5, 2010)

rx-79g said:


> You might have a tapered fork that is not compatible with your headset, or it might just be the very slight difference in diameters that make up an interference or press fit. "Couple of mms" doesn't tell us much, but a picture of the problem would.


Alright, from the looks of it I definitely have a tapered fork. Strange thing to me was that the headset was purchased with the frame and fork to supposedly fit. I'll post some pics of my exact setup in a little bit when I get home. 

Also, why would I not have cups with the headset?


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

rx-79g said:


> Another cutting method is to use a cheap alloy spacer as a cutting guide.


I use an automotive radiator worm-drive hose clamp as a guide.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

tdawg183 said:


> Alright, from the looks of it I definitely have a tapered fork. Strange thing to me was that the headset was purchased with the frame and fork to supposedly fit. I'll post some pics of my exact setup in a little bit when I get home.
> 
> Also, why would I not have cups with the headset?


Integrated headsets don't have cups. The cups are built into the frame, if you have frame built for them. 

I think you need to find out what you have got there, and what you're supposed to have from the company that built it. There aren't that many standards, but it doesn't sound like you have a caliper to get exact dimensions, so I'm guessing. If the frame and fork go together, call the frame company about what you have and what headset standard goes with it. You might have all the right stuff - no idea.

Or, you could consider taking it to a shop or skilled friend.


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## tdawg183 (Oct 5, 2010)

rx-79g said:


> I think you need to find out what you have got there, and what you're supposed to have from the company that built it. There aren't that many standards, but it doesn't sound like you have a caliper to get exact dimensions, so I'm guessing. If the frame and fork go together, call the frame company about what you have and what headset standard goes with it. You might have all the right stuff - no idea.


Okay, I do have calipers and I measured the crown race ID to maybe 39.9 mm and the bearing is exactly 40.0mm. I guess I just didn't look at it well enough before but its possible that a little grease and a little tap will get the crown race past the point in the picture (where it currently gets hung up). Maybe even a very small amount of sanding.

It is clear to me now though that the fork is tapered up to where the crown race is in the picture where it is then a constant diameter.


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## 2cflyr (Apr 9, 2002)

pcxmbfj said:


> I usually press one cup at a time.


finally. someone said it. only one at a time, reguarless of headset.


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