# Creaking 2011 S-Works Roubaix BB...



## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

Getting ready to tear the BB/crank apart. Yuck. I'm thinking the noise has to do with the silly threadless shell. If anyone has run into this so far, let me know your tricks. It's the BB for sure. if you rotate the crank to bottom and step on the pedal you get a click. Spin down the other side, walk around the bike, press on the pedal...click. I have an MTB with this type design, no noise yet. BTW, the bike is new. Looks like a 6mm hex and a T45 wrench will get me a long way. Possible bearing extraction/re-lube/re-install coming up.


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## the_tank (Feb 5, 2007)

I'd double check the chainring bolts.


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

Happens when I step on the non drive side crank too.


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## BluesDawg (Mar 1, 2005)

Is it not under warranty?


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## RkFast (Dec 11, 2004)

Wait...a click or a creak? Clicks can be anything from a tight chainlink to a loose cleat bolt. I have a click, too. But I know its not a BB issue becuse it happens more or less under any amount of load. BB creaks make themselves heard usually under harder efforts only. Dont go tearing it all apart just yet.

And if the bike is new and under warranty, why not have yer LBS have a look? You got yerself a brand new top of the line bike there...Im sure the service from the LBS you got it would be free.


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

RkFast said:


> Wait...a click or a creak? Clicks can be anything from a tight chainlink to a loose cleat bolt. I have a click, too. But I know its not a BB issue becuse it happens more or less under any amount of load. BB creaks make themselves heard usually under harder efforts only. Dont go tearing it all apart just yet.


I'm doing the testing OFF the bike. Happens on both sides. Just standing and stepping on the crank at the pedal. Click and creak. It's ugly.


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

It's under warranty but...the last time one of my bikes saw my local shop they gouged the carbon crown on an S-Works Stumpy doing fork service. Also the rear tire on this bike was sliced at the bead when assembled (which I belive would be Specialized). I bought the bike out of town. I try to avoid anyone else touching the bikes at all costs.


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## roadie01 (Apr 13, 2010)

I had a similar problem on my 2006 S-Works Tarmac SL. There probably have been some changes to the S-Works cranks since then. Mine used a 4mm allen key to remove the 'dust' cover bolt and an extened 5mm to reach the center bolt that held the two spindle halfs together. 

I fixed the bearing creaking by applying a thin coat of blue threadlocking compound to the bearing/cup mating surface, letting it dry over night and presto. I was good for about 6 months of good riding. I'm nto sure this will work with an SL3 frame. The Tarmac SL3 at the LBS had a carbon OSBB shell not metal as in my SL. 

This may not apply due to the changes "improvements" the big S has made in the OSBB system since 2006. 

As an ex LBS mechanic if this is a new bike take it back and request the Specialized sales rep look at it. While they may not be a trained mechanic it is important for issues like your to be reported back. The Specialized rep is also the first line (save the LBS) in the warranty process should there be a defect in your bike. 

If the shop damaged the carbon crown and you can prove it was not damaged prior to being dropped off for service report them to Specialized. That's the point of being an Authorized Dealer, they represent the brand they are selling. 

I'm curious it the tire was sliced how did you get out the shop door with a flat? 

You should be able to go to any Specialized dealer to get your bike looked at.


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## crashracer (May 10, 2004)

Before you take the bike in, try tightening the QRs, remove the seatpost and remove the bottle cages. Then try your click test. If it's gone, install the the post and cages and see if it returns. The number one reason for clicks is QRs followed by the seatpost.


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

UPDATE: It was the BB cups. Some grease on them, but apparently not enough. The cups get grease according to the Specialized 2011 docs.Hopefully this will last a while. Some type of carbon safe Loctite wouldn't be a bad idea if it comes back. I use Tacx on the seatpost (if was slipping after OEM torque with a $100 wrench before the Tacx).

The tire. The bike was bought from afar. Said it aired up, but was never ridden. It will air up for a minute until it all comes out the weep holes in the rim. I know what those slashes look like on that tire from a tire iron cause I put a tiny one on the new tire I mounted.

Noise is gone from the "step" test in the garage, now for a ride.


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## Gearhead65 (Jan 23, 2010)

I have a 2009 Roubaix with a BB30 Bottom bracket and have had issues with creaking. In 2009, the bearings were set directly into an alloy sleeve that was inside the carbon frame. The Specialized instructions for these are to set the bearings with a Loctite bearing compound...I believe 640 or 641, NOT their threadlocking compound.

For your model year Roubaix, I believe they changed the design to eliminate the alloy sleeve, but have nylon (or some type of plastic) cups that the bearings are in as the nylon cup is pressed into the carbon BB. Your solution of grease is the best solution there. I would not try to use any Loctite compound on your design. 

Also, make sure your crank is giving the proper 'preload' to the bearings. For example with a SRAM setup there is a wavy washer that gives slight pressure to the bearings.


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

Gearhead65 said:


> I have a 2009 Roubaix with a BB30 Bottom bracket and have had issues with creaking. In 2009, the bearings were set directly into an alloy sleeve that was inside the carbon frame. The Specialized instructions for these are to set the bearings with a Loctite bearing compound...I believe 640 or 641, NOT their threadlocking compound.
> 
> For your model year Roubaix, I believe they changed the design to eliminate the alloy sleeve, but have nylon (or some type of plastic) cups that the bearings are in as the nylon cup is pressed into the carbon BB. Your solution of grease is the best solution there. I would not try to use any Loctite compound on your design.
> 
> Also, make sure your crank is giving the proper 'preload' to the bearings. For example with a SRAM setup there is a wavy washer that gives slight pressure to the bearings.


Right, plastic cups into the carbon BB. I used a generous amount of Phil's. Wavy washers were in place per the Specialized diagram. Thanks for the help everyone. Stupid technology!


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## Stratmosphere (Feb 28, 2007)

*I was wrong (again)*

I was holding onto the seatpost while testing the BB noise. When I didn't, no noise. Test ride and the noise is there. Get home and remove the seatpost. It's "chipped" front and rear at the top of the insertion point. Not good. Swapped to another SW seapost I had, checked the frame for sharp edges, put TACX on the frame and post and torqued to spec. We will see if that helps.


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