# BMC Roadmachine!



## MMsRepBike

BMC Roadmachine: price, weight, spec - BikeRadar

If you're into disc brakes, this is a nice one.


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## MMsRepBike




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## looigi

I like the way it looks.


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## MMsRepBike

Finally a disc brake bike made by people that have a clue.

Rear hub spacing is 142mm, which is the new Shimano standard, **** you SCS.

Front hub is 100mm, which is standard and both front and back have the
Shimano standard 12mm thru axles.

That wasn't that hard to do was it?

Also they have the integrated, and nicely done I must add, fender mounts on the alloy ones. The fenders and rack they made for the bike are great.

The head tube angle is very slack, making this a very stable bike. BMC was smart to show Cadel carving switchbacks with it to rest the minds of those thinking slack bikes can't turn well.

Clearance for 30mm tires no problem.

The carbon frames can swap between 140 or 160mm rotors with a slick integrated mounting plate.

The frames come with a nice chain catcher built in.

The integrated front end on the high end versions is very nicely done. That new design steerer tube/foam setup is pretty slick.


Overall it's basically a home run. In terms of what new, modern, disc brake bikes are supposed to have, what is it missing?


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## Migen21

When are these supposed to be in shops? I'm really keen to test ride one.


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## GOTA

It sure looks fast. I wonder if this eventually replaces the Granfondo. Racers are going to still want the SLR. This would seem to have the same audience as the GF. If the Roadmachine is as compliant as the GF but faster it's going to cannibalize a lot of sales. At the very least the aluminum Granfondos should be discontinued. This looks far superior for a similar price.

I'm very curious to check one out. I hope the 1 BMC shop in my area carries it but I'm sure not counting on it given the limited bikes they carry now.


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## MMsRepBike

Migen21 said:


> When are these supposed to be in shops? I'm really keen to test ride one.





> There are eight models in all with a variety of frame colours, and all are in stock and on sale now.


Just depends on the dealer and local availability and such. 

I too own and greatly enjoy a Granfondo. I have my eyes on an aluminum Roadmachine with fenders, but it would be replacing the Granfondo which doesn't need replacing. I'm in no need of disc brakes, especially on the Granfondo which I run aluminum powertap wheels on. So I don't need one at all... but I have my eyes on one anyway.


The integrated stuff is only on the most expensive one. There's a lower tier full carbon one without all of the integrated stuff. So if you don't want it, you don't have to have it.

The seatpost though... on both carbon versions it's a carbon proprietary post. So yeah. On the alloy versions though it's round and has a standard collar.


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## Migen21

I have an Aluminum GF-02 whose entire existence has been attached to my indoor trainer. That is the only aluminum bike I'm likely to own.

I asked some of the sales flunkeys at the bike shop today when the Roadmachine is going to be available to test/demo. They laughed and said I was about the 10th person that has asked about it since the announcement, so i guess there is some interest. Unfortunately none of the management folks were around, and no one there was sure when they'd be arriving.


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## GOTA

Looks like the Road Machine did end up replacing the Gran Fondo line. They still have the carbon GF02 listed probably because it's the only rim brake endurance frame left. The GF01 and Aluminum GF02 are all gone. I would imagine this is also the last year for the carbon GF02. They didn't change the colors or seemingly make any changes. If you want an endurance frame with rim brakes you should jump on that model before it's gone


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## Rashadabd

I dig it (a lot actually):


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## Migen21

Yea, I got to ride one for an hour or so last week. I really wanted to hate it, but it was a really great bike. I think they've compromised a little bit of compliance on the back end, especially on the larger frame (I ride a 61) in trade for a slightly more aggressive position and perhaps slightly better stiffness. I'd need more time on it to know exactly how that extends over longer rides and a full season, but so far, so good.

I really don't *need* one (my GF-01 is still quite serviceable), but the call of the new and shiny is beckoning me with this.

I'll try to resist and see if they come out with some better colors for the model I'd want (Ultegra Di2). I suppose I could live with that dark grey/orange scheme.

This is the current colorway for the Ui2 RM-01

The bike definitely has clean lines for a Disc Brake equipped 'Endurance' model designed for 'FAT guys'


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## Rashadabd

Migen21 said:


> Yea, I got to ride one for an hour or so last week. I really wanted to hate it, but it was a really great bike. I think they've compromised a little bit of compliance on the back end, especially on the larger frame (I ride a 61) in trade for a slightly more aggressive position and perhaps slightly better stiffness. I'd need more time on it to know exactly how that extends over longer rides and a full season, but so far, so good.
> 
> I really don't *need* one (my GF-01 is still quite serviceable), but the call of the new and shiny is beckoning me with this.
> 
> I'll try to resist and see if they come out with some better colors for the model I'd want (Ultegra Di2). I suppose I could live with that dark grey/orange scheme.
> 
> This is the current colorway for the Ui2 RM-01
> 
> The bike definitely has clean lines for a Disc Brake equipped 'Endurance' model designed for 'FAT guys'


Cool, sounds good to me (I prefer stiffness over compliance anyway). This and the new Scott Addict Disc are the bikes that are appealing to me most right now. Lightweight, comfortable, disc equipped, race oriented machines with room for wider wheels are where I am at given the direction my riding is heading in. The Roadmachine and the Addict check the most boxes and have effectively knocked the Felt FR, Orbea Orca, and Giant TCR down a few notches. I am still interested in seeing what Specialized does with the new Roubaix, but I am officially impressed by the BMC and the Scott. I actually like the black and orange FWIW... :thumbsup:


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## Rashadabd

There are significant differences between the Roadmachine 01 and Roadmachine 02 apparently:

First Look: BMC Roadmachine | Bicycling

These differences make the Addict Disc a better all around deal IMO. The HMF Addict bikes have a number of the same features and are as light as the Roadmachine 01 bikes, but priced like the Roadmachine 02.

Scott Addict gains disc brakes for 2017 - Cycling Weekly

Scott adds disc brakes to Addict race bike | Road Bike News, Reviews, and Photos


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## Migen21

There definitely are differences, at least between the 01 and 02 Gran Fondo's. For me, one of my major complaints with BMC is that they are not really forthcoming with the details in regards to the differences in the carbon. The bike shop peeps have no clue, and when I pressed the BMC rep about the differences (specifically in the carbon), he either didn't know himself, or was unwilling to say. 

Without extensive side-by-side comparison, which isn't really feasible, it's impossible for the consumer to know exactly how the lower grade carbon/layup in the 02 translates to stiffness and compliance. Being a big guy who puts in a lot of miles on long rides, I tend to prefer a little compliance over extra stiffness or lightness, but chassis stiffness is still important, to prevent flex induced chain rub, etc...

I learned the hard way that the GF-02 was not the same bike as the GF-01, despite the exact same tube shapes and geometry. I rode a GF-01 for a year and a half before it suffered some minor frame damage. When I went to get a replacement from BMC, they couldn't produce a GF-01 frame in my size, and offered me a fully equipped GF-02 at cost (which is pretty darned cheap and cheaper than a GF-01 Frameset alone) and told me they were essentially the same, and that I wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

Needless to say, I could feel the difference. While compliance was probably as good, or possibly better, there was considerably less stiffness in the bottom of the bike (chassis/chainstay/BB, etc...). It might not be very noticeable with a smaller/lighter rider on a 49cm bike, but being 6' 5" and 240lbs on a 61cm bike, I could definitely feel the difference. So much so that I had problems with front derailleur rub (frame flex) under heavy power (climbing, sprinting, etc...).

I ended up selling the GF-02 (for a steal) to a friend, and got my GF-01 repaired. I'm still riding it today, and love it.

I rode the RM-01 for an hour, and was pleased with the feel of the frame. I'd love to spend a couple of hours on both the 01 and the 02 for a side by side comparison, but the shop is not stocking the 02 in my size, at least for now. I'd be very interested to know of the 02 has the same softer feel that the Gran Fondo GF-02 had.


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## Rashadabd

It can definitely be tough to tell with a number of manufacturers. You could certainly feel a similar difference between a Cervelo R3 and R5 back when I was riding and testing those. Specialized, Trek, and Giant seem to do a good job of providing a similar ride quality at a more affordable price on their lower end carbon bikes for what it's worth (they just seem to be heavier). Even the Fact 8 Carbon entry level Roubaix bikes rode pretty nice if you are into stiffness and a 5 Series Trek (which they don't seem to make many of anymore) rode as good as anything I ever tried for instance.


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## GOTA

Migen21 said:


> There definitely are differences, at least between the 01 and 02 Gran Fondo's. For me, one of my major complaints with BMC is that they are not really forthcoming with the details in regards to the differences in the carbon. The bike shop peeps have no clue, and when I pressed the BMC rep about the differences (specifically in the carbon), he either didn't know himself, or was unwilling to say.
> 
> Without extensive side-by-side comparison, which isn't really feasible, it's impossible for the consumer to know exactly how the lower grade carbon/layup in the 02 translates to stiffness and compliance. Being a big guy who puts in a lot of miles on long rides, I tend to prefer a little compliance over extra stiffness or lightness, but chassis stiffness is still important, to prevent flex induced chain rub, etc...
> 
> I learned the hard way that the GF-02 was not the same bike as the GF-01, despite the exact same tube shapes and geometry. I rode a GF-01 for a year and a half before it suffered some minor frame damage. When I went to get a replacement from BMC, they couldn't produce a GF-01 frame in my size, and offered me a fully equipped GF-02 at cost (which is pretty darned cheap and cheaper than a GF-01 Frameset alone) and told me they were essentially the same, and that I wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
> 
> Needless to say, I could feel the difference. While compliance was probably as good, or possibly better, there was considerably less stiffness in the bottom of the bike (chassis/chainstay/BB, etc...). It might not be very noticeable with a smaller/lighter rider on a 49cm bike, but being 6' 5" and 240lbs on a 61cm bike, I could definitely feel the difference. So much so that I had problems with front derailleur rub (frame flex) under heavy power (climbing, sprinting, etc...).
> 
> I ended up selling the GF-02 (for a steal) to a friend, and got my GF-01 repaired. I'm still riding it today, and love it.
> 
> I rode the RM-01 for an hour, and was pleased with the feel of the frame. I'd love to spend a couple of hours on both the 01 and the 02 for a side by side comparison, but the shop is not stocking the 02 in my size, at least for now. I'd be very interested to know of the 02 has the same softer feel that the Gran Fondo GF-02 had.


I actually ended up with a GF-02 because it was more compliant. For me it was stiff enough but really comfortable over bad roads. I also wanted rim brakes and that wasn't available on the GF-01 anymore. I completely agree with your comparison of the 2 frames. 

I have a feeling it will be the same for the Roadmachine. Unfortunately the last BMC dealer in my area won't be stocking any. It's TM01 and TM02 only. I can order the Roadmachine but I still love my GF-02 so I'm not replacing it for a bike that I can't try out.


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## Migen21

I just found out my local BMC dealer does in fact have a RM-02 in my size. It's just not built yet.

I told them i'd like to ride it, but not until after I get back from a vacation later this month.


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## jgutz71

I'm thinking about getting the RM01 in the black and orange...need to test ride one to see how she feels. Although it would be tough to not ride my 2015 Madone 7.7


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## GOTA

Migen21 said:


> I just found out my local BMC dealer does in fact have a RM-02 in my size. It's just not built yet.
> 
> I told them i'd like to ride it, but not until after I get back from a vacation later this month.


Please post your impression after you try it. Given how you noticed the exact same things between the GF-01 and GF-02 as I did I really trust your views. It would be very much appreciated.


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## Rashadabd

Here's another interesting bike to check out if you like rides like this. I give you the Focus Paralane (I have added it to my short list and it's right up there at the top):

Focus - Bikes: PARALANE Launch

Focus Paralane Ultegra review (first ride) - BikeRadar USA


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## boogermin

Here's my new ride. Bought the frame set and built it up with Dura Ace 9070 and Enve SES 4.5ARs on 28mm GP4000SII's. So far, so good.


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## Migen21

I will be picking up the same frameset a little later (late Nov I think). I'll build mine up with a mix of Dura-Ace and Ultegra Di2 and the same wheels as you.

I'd be interested to hear back what you think of the wheels after you've logged a few miles (maybe start a thread over in Wheels and Tires so you don't earn the wrath of CXWrench and his minions).


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## joeelliott92506

*I want to build something similar*



boogermin said:


> View attachment 316745
> Here's my new ride. Bought the frame set and built it up with Dura Ace 9070 and Enve SES 4.5ARs on 28mm GP4000SII's. So far, so good.


Hi,

I am looking to build a VERY similar bike, same frame, wheels, but wanted to wait for the '17 Dura Ace R9150 groupo. Did you buy from RA Cycles, I saw you were out East?

How do you like the wheels?


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## boogermin

Yup. RA had the frameset available (of course) and were able to build it up. I was running Enve's SES 4.5's before this wheelset, and honestly can't really tell the difference (aside from the braking... never going back to rim brakes). They're bombproof, and relatively stable in x-winds. Paired with Chris King hubs (R45), they spin for a while. 

I didn't have the patience to wait for DA 9150, so I pulled the trigger a bit early, but I'll be upgrading the shifters/FD/RD/brakes when it's released.

I'm enjoying the bike, as it's a good balance of comfort and "performance".


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## Migen21

Hey boogermin, 

Did your frameset come with the integrated garmin mount? Or is that only on the complete DA Di2 bike?

I've decided to go for the 61cm frameset (as opposed to the Ultegra Di2 in orange and black). I'm not in love with the colorway. The red over black is OK, but the bright white logo on the downtube does nothing for me. I'm considering having a custom paint applied before I build it up. Or maybe I'll just take a sharpie to it. 

I'm also going to pass on the new DA stuff. I'll put the 785 shifters, Ultegra FD and RD (for the 32 tooth cassette capacity), and 175mm dura ace 9000 cranks (50/34). 

For wheels, I've got my heart set on the new Enve AR 4.5 Disc wheels. That's a tough one though. I've had a chance to demo those wheels, and they are awesome in just about every possible way. It's just so much money. My current bikes all have HED Belgium Plus with Chris King Hubs, which cost about 1/3 the price of the Enves, and they are awesome. Hard to justify those wheels for my riding....


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## boogermin

The integrate Garmin mounts are not available for any Roadmachine. That's straight from BMC. No ETA as of a month or so ago.


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## Migen21

Ok RBR,

I'm ready to order by Roadmachine, but can't decide on which route to go. 

I know colors are subjective, but I'm interested in everyones opinions on my two options.

Option 1 is to go the same route at Boogermin did and build up the frameset.

This is the "Team" red colorway. I don't have any strong feelings about it one way or the other, but I don't love that bright white BMC logo on the downtube. I'd be building this up with Ultegra Di2 shifters and derailleurs, and a DA9070 crankset.


*Stock photo from BMC*









*Boogermin's build from his post above*













The alternative is to just buy an already built Ultegra Di2 in the Orange and Black colorway. I don't love or hate this either, although other than the videos posted in the "Quiver Killer" thread, I've never seen this bike in motion, and have never seen one in person (none of my LBS's stock it for some reason). 

A minor advantage to going this route is, the cost of the bike build is factored into the bikes cost. Wheras the team build, I'd probably be building it myself or paying for the bike build service at the shop ($300 I think). I don't mind doing it myself, but if I can get them to do it for free, why not? ~

*Stock photo from BMC*












Cost is not an issue. Depending on a few variables, there could be a cost savings of a couple of hundred dollars either way. In the long run it's not enough to sway my decision. 

I keep going back and forth on this. I don't hate the orange, but having never seen it in person, it's a little scary comitting to it. I've talked to a couple of folks who have seen them in person and they didn't like them, but, this is a subjective thing. 

So, it just comes down to color. 

BTW, if it matters, mine will be the largest size - 61cm

What say you RBR? Lets hear your subjective opinions. Team Red? or Orange Black?


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## GOTA

Black, red and white are the classic BMC colors. If it were me that's what I'd go for. It's like Bianchi with celeste. 

I will say from personal experience, orange is not a color that lasts long in bar tape. It shows dirt almost as badly as white. If you are anything like me you're going to swap that out for black. Try to think of the orange model with black tape instead of the stock orange and factor that into your decision


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## Migen21

GOTA said:


> Black, red and white are the classic BMC colors. If it were me that's what I'd go for. It's like Bianchi with celeste.
> 
> I will say from personal experience, orange is not a color that lasts long in bar tape. It shows dirt almost as badly as white. If you are anything like me you're going to swap that out for black. Try to think of the orange model with black tape instead of the stock orange and factor that into your decision


This is pretty much in line with what I'm thinking. 

The bar tape thing doesn't worry me too much. I would put black on the top half above the hoods, and orange below, just to give it a little more color.

I actually think my eye prefers the color scheme of the orange/black, but the black/red/white is kinda the default for a BMC, and it's their Team bike colors again this year. That's currently where I'm leaning (it's also slightly less expensive to go this way, as I already have a DA Crank and PM to use - so the Ultegra would get pulled off the orange).


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## Rashadabd

@Migen21, my vote is for the orange and black. It's different enough to pack a little style, which many BMC bikes have been lacking. But if your heart is set on running the Enve wheels, the frameset makes more sense from a financial standpoint I guess. It's still close though and I like the look of the black and orange quite a bit more.


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## majbuzz

I prefer the black and red. I know that is what we are all used to seeing, but I still love looking at mine. What would worry me is not seeing the orange/black in person. Hate to see you order it and get it out in the sun and say yuck. I think it looks good though. If you could see both it would definitely make this easier. Good luck and congrats on the pending order, that is an exciting time.


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## Migen21

It turns out the orange/black Ultegra Di2 is not going to be available until Feb. The 61cm "Team" frameset is sitting on a shelf in the stock room..

I'll be picking up the frameset tomorrow. 

I won't be able to build it up until the wheels arrive (two weeks or so).

That'll give me time to get the rest of the components ready.


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## xterrastrial

*Drive-side chainstay clearance ok?*



boogermin said:


> View attachment 316745
> Here's my new ride. Bought the frame set and built it up with Dura Ace 9070 and Enve SES 4.5ARs on 28mm GP4000SII's. So far, so good.


I just got the RM01 Ultegra and am also looking at the 4.5AR's. In the stock setup, it looks like the gap between the tire and drive-side chain stay is the tightest spot for tire clearance. Any issues with your setup? How much space do you have there?

Thx!


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## Migen21

Do your homework on these Enve 4.5ARs. They are not standard dimensions and have a very limited tire selection. They require a non beaded tubeless compatible tire (i.e. Shwalbe), and the tires are impossible to mount without tire levers, and even then it's *really* hard to get them over the rims.

I also have a RM01 in Team Red, and have it set up with Enve 3.4 SES Disc. Just for kicks, I put some 32mm Clement Strada USH inflated to 60psi. I'm hoping to use this tire for a dedicated gravel setup. This was a tad too close to the drive side chainstay for my liking. I think it was partly due to the fact that the tires were freshly mounted and not fully seated in the bead tracks (I didn't notice this until I was pulling the tires off). 

My current setup is with 28mm Conti 4 Seasons, which will be my all around all weather tire. There is plenty of clearance all around with this tire on the 3.4 SES Disc. 

I'm still waiting for a rear brake caliper and a 12x100 thru axle adapter (for DT240S Centerlock) to finish the build. Once it's done, I'll post some pictures and perhaps a first ride impression, assuming we get some decent weather before spring.


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## xterrastrial

Migen21 said:


> Do your homework on this Enve 4.5ARs. They are not standard dimensions and have a very limited tire selection. They require a non beaded tubeless compatible tire (i.e. Shwalbe), and the tires are impossible to mount without tire levers, and even then it's *really* hard to get them over the rims.
> 
> I also have a RM01, and have it set up with 3.4 SES Disc. Just for kicks, I put some 32mm Clement Strada USH inflated to 60psi. I'm hoping to use this tire for a dedicated gravel setup. This was a tad too close to the chainstay for my liking. I think it was partly due to the fact that the tires were freshly mounted and not fully seated in the bead tracks (I didnt notice this until I was pulling the tires off).
> 
> My current setup is with 28mm Conti 4 Seasons, which will be my all around all weather tire. There is plenty of clearance all around with this tire on the 3.4 SES Disc.
> 
> I'm still waiting for a rear brake caliper to finish the build. Once it's done, I'll post some pictures and perhaps a first ride impression, assuming we get some decent weather before spring.


Thanks for the feedback. I saw on Enve's support site you need a min of 40mm between the chain stays for the AR's, which is exactly what it measures on my RM01 (58cm FWIW). That said, the clearance is not symmetrical, with noticeably less on the drive side.

I'm thinking the 4.5AR's might not be the right fit for me. Will probably go for the 5.6 disc instead and use trusty GP4KsII's

cheers


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## boogermin

xterrastrial said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I saw on Enve's support site you need a min of 40mm between the chain stays for the AR's, which is exactly what it measures on my RM01 (58cm FWIW). That said, the clearance is not symmetrical, with noticeably less on the drive side.
> 
> I'm thinking the 4.5AR's might not be the right fit for me. Will probably go for the 5.6 disc instead and use trusty GP4KsII's
> 
> cheers


No issues with clearance/rubbing/etc with the AR4.5s on my RM01. Running 28mm Conti GP4000SIIs FWIW.


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## xterrastrial

Thx for the feedback. I've gone with the Enve 5.6's. They are on their way. Sounds like the 4.5AR's might have worked despite the Enve requirements. I'm sure I'll like the 5.6 any way. 

Cheers.


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## Migen21

I finally finished by RM-01 build.

BMC RoadMachine RM-01 61cm Frameset ("Team Red" Colorway)
Shimano Ultegra Di2 6870 derailleurs (GS for rear)
Shimano R785 Shifters
Dura Ace Crankset (50/34 175mm)
Ultegra 11sp 11-32 Cassette
Shimano BR-RS805 brake calipers/Shimano RT-99 Rotors (140R/160F)
Enve 3.4 SES Disc Wheels with DT-240S Centerlock Hubs (High Engagement Freehub)
Continental Gran Prix 4000s II 28 Tires (will probably swap to Schwalbe Strada USH 32's or Conti 4 Season 28s for the winter).
Enve 44cm Handlebar
Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow Saddle
Speedplay Zero Cro-Moly Pedals (will swap to the Speedplay Pave at some point)

Here are a few preliminary pictures. The weather has been too crappy to be outside, but we are expecting a little sun this week. I'll try to get some better pictures and post them.











These are primarily aimed at the cable routing/stem and seat post, as I had recieved some PM requests for close up pictures of them.


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## Rashadabd

Nice build man! It looks like you are ready to get out there and put in some work.


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## Pons

Migen21 said:


> I finally finished by RM-01 build.
> 
> BMC RoadMachine RM-01 61cm Frameset ("Team Red" Colorway)
> Shimano Ultegra Di2 6870 derailleurs (GS for rear)
> Shimano R785 Shifters
> Dura Ace Crankset (50/34 175mm)
> Ultegra 11sp 11-32 Cassette
> Shimano BR-RS805 brake calipers/Shimano RT-99 Rotors (140R/160F)
> Enve 3.4 SES Disc Wheels with DT-240S Centerlock Hubs (High Engagement Freehub)
> Continental Gran Prix 4000s II 28 Tires (will probably swap to Schwalbe Strada USH 32's or Conti 4 Season 28s for the winter).
> Enve 44cm Handlebar
> Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow Saddle
> Speedplay Zero Cro-Moly Pedals (will swap to the Speedplay Pave at some point)


Very nice Bike!
I just ordered mine in black-orange in size 61... actual weight 7,55kg or 16,65lbs (w/o pedals). I wonder to know the final weight of your version. Thank you!


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## Migen21

Hey Pons,

I don't have a scale to weigh it on. Next time I'm at the shop, if I remember I'll ask them to weigh it for me.

Honestly, I gave zero consideration to weight when building the bike. None. I didn't even research the weight of the bike before I bought it.

Being 6'5" (195cm) and 225lbs (102kg), a few grams of weight on a 61cm bike is not going to make a lot of difference.

Other than a short spin around the parking lot, I still haven't even ridden it. It's been really crappy weather. Either heavy, cold rain, or temps in the teens. Neither of those are conducive to a nice 'get to know you' shakedown ride. Especially considering it was my first time building a bike with hydraulic disc brakes.

I'll take it for a long ride on the next decently warm (above 40f) dry day. The way things are going, it might be March though. 

Edit: I almost ordered the Orange/Black ultegra bike. I considered that vs the Team Red frameset. I was kinda torn on the color choices. Unfortunately, the BMC rep told me that there were not black/orange Ultegra Di2 bikes available until early 2017, and my money was burning a hole in my pocket. So I went with the frameset option.

I'm really curious about how yours looks. Please post some pictures of it in natural lighting when you get it. I'm also interested in your impressions of the stock wheels.


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## Pons

Migen21 said:


> I'm really curious about how yours looks. Please post some pictures of it in natural lighting when you get it. I'm also interested in your impressions of the stock wheels.


I had a chance to have two test bikes in size 58 and 61 with me at home for 5 days, I really enjoyed this test phase. The bike is great in every situation, I set my new PR up and downhill!

About the stock wheels... I'm not such a big expert, what I can say is that in comparison to the alluminuim DT Swiss R32 tested on the non-Di2 Roadmachine 01, the 3T roll very well, also on climbs, making the bike more reactive. They also look very nice in the carbon-stealth finish, they only could have been a little more aero (40mm instead 32mm).

Here some real pics of the bike, I really like the orange-black contrast, making it very original with a fresh style:


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## Migen21

That orange looks really nice in natural light. I think I actually like it better than the Team Red...

I was at the shop and weighed my bike today. Ready to ride, including pedals (no bottle cages) and 28mm tires, it came in at 17.75 lbs (8.0kg). It's the largest size available (61cm) and is built with a mix of Dura Ace and Ultegra Di2 components. 

Here are a few pictures of the bike in natural light.


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## Steph26ne

New colorscheme for 2017 RM1:
- Team Red (matte)







- Grey







- Blue (matte) waiting for an official picture

Comes form Velofollies Belgium ... Team will officially rides it on spring classics (cobbles)


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## cannondaleCAD3

Hello, I am thinking of ordering a Roadmachine01 and just saw the photos of the red frameset. So I have got 2 questions: 1.) does anybody know the reason why BMC added a cover / protection plate (or whatever it is) in the area where the seatpost is inserted into the Frame? If so, will it come with new models only? 2.) Does anybody have Problems with slipping seatposts on their roadmachines? Thank you guys!


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## Pons

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> Hello, I am thinking of ordering a Roadmachine01 and just saw the photos of the red frameset. So I have got 2 questions: 1.) does anybody know the reason why BMC added a cover / protection plate (or whatever it is) in the area where the seatpost is inserted into the Frame? If so, will it come with new models only? 2.) Does anybody have Problems with slipping seatposts on their roadmachines? Thank you guys!


Hi
I just saw this plastic cover on a RM01 in a shop (see pic), I suppose the old little piece (round) was easy to lose. I saw it on a "old" color scheme model.
Second, I must say that the seatpost is a bit slippy, you have to close it a bit more than recommended, then it is OK.








I


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## cannondaleCAD3

Hello Pons, thank you very much for your answer! This helps a lot in my decision.
It seems there was no major change to the frame, but only to the cover / protection
around the seatpost and the seatpost bolt.
Great photo, exactly what I wanted to see! ;-)

Anyone else who noticed the seatpost slipping in when tightened with the recommended
torque? I just want to figure out if it is a problem with this bike, as I read several test reports
and 2 of those said that the seatpost is slipping in. I already tested one bike before I knew 
anything about the seatpost and the seatpost on the testbike did not perform well…. 
( my weight is 80 kgs, which should be still ok for this bike) Thank you guys!


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## MMsRepBike

Pons said:


> Second, I must say that the seatpost is a bit slippy, you have to close it a bit more than recommended, then it is OK.


No, this does not make it OK, this is VERY bad.

You don't over-tighten a seatpost clamp to stop the seatpost from slipping, you remove the post, clean it, and apply a generous amount of thick carbon assembly paste. You then re-install it and use NO MORE than the recommended torque setting. The recommended setting is a MAX, it's not like a speed limit on the roads you can just disobey or go over all the time. Don't be stupid, don't do what's quoted above, never go over a recommend torque spec for any reason.


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## Migen21

My seatpost slipped down on my first ride. It was more of a migration over an hour and a half. It was down about 3mm at the end of the ride.

It had been installed exactly to spec torque with carbon paste. 

I took it into the shop where I bought it and they re-installed it with fresh carbon paste and an allen key (no torque wrench), probably a little more torque that spec'd. 

I have only had it out for one short 20 mile ride since then and it was fine.

I suspect I will end up warrantying the frame with them due to this. It's kind of a bummer. I really like the black/red color scheme.


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## cannondaleCAD3

Migen21, this is very sad story....hope you get it replaced under warranty.did you try montage paste? This is exactly why i am interested in the seatpost / seatpost clamp issue. I thought there were done any changes to the seatpost clamp as I saw the pictures of the red frame. Anyone else having this problem?


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## Migen21

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> Migen21, this is very sad story....hope you get it replaced under warranty.did you try montage paste? This is exactly why i am interested in the seatpost / seatpost clamp issue. I thought there were done any changes to the seatpost clamp as I saw the pictures of the red frame. Anyone else having this problem?


Well, the guys at the shop told me they have had a few people come back and complain about a slipping seatpost (although certainly not all of them). They gave me the impression that they cleaned it, re-applied carbon paste and re-installed using an allen key and that no one has come back.

Also, I'm 6' 5"/195cm and 225lbs/100kg. Slipping seatposts isn't some new thing for me. 

I'm not too worried about it. The company and the shop have a good reputation for warranty stuff. If this ends up being a problem (it's still TBD as far as I'm concerned), I won't have any trouble getting it replaced.

If I were having to deal with online ordering, and shipping for return/rebuild, I'd probably be a lot more frustrated, but this shop is a few miles from my house, and directly along my normal riding routes.


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## cannondaleCAD3

@migrn21...i am not considering online orders,but the di2 ultegra model will definitley kill my bank account. Therefore there will be no funds left if it turns out that the bike does not work for me. Lets say: i have 1 shot.;-) and the bike should work for some years (5plus). This is why i am asking for “real world experiences“ of real users. For me it would be the only bike for the next years. A slipping seatpost would mean that I can not use it. And I can not justify this to my wife.... not in that price area....if you know what I mean.


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## cannondaleCAD3

You pay a price which is more likely to be paid for a car. Therefore i would expect a perfect engineering!


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## Migen21

I'm not going to tell you that you shouldn't worry about it. Just the opposite. As you said, it's a lot of money, and your expectation that it works perfectly right out of the box is definitely not unreasonable. 

When I considered the RM-01, I did ponder the unusual seatpost and stem/steerer/riser design. My biggest concern going into it was that I was locked into BMC's proprietary hardware (seatpost, stem, riser, spacers). I was concerned if I needed a different stem length, or a different spacer setup, those items would be hard to get. I even talked with the regional rep, who was in the shop one day when I was there. He assured me that there would be availability of the stems in all varieties, and spacers would be coming in 1/2 cm and 1 cm increments. He showed me a few samples he had brought with him. That was enough for me. My fit on the 61cm out of the box with the included riser and stem was right where I wanted it to be. It's a slight bit lower and longer than my GF-01 was, which is just what I wanted. I don't anticipate needing to dial in the fit much, and the included hardware should be adequate for that. 

As I mentioned before, this is not my first experience with a slipping seatpost. In fact, every bike I've owned has had this problem to some degree. The exception being my Ti Volagi with a Ritchey carbon seatpost, which has never slipped. In every case, eventually, after the first few rides, the problem seems to resolve itself. My GF-01 seatpost (standard 27.2mm round post) slipped down slowly on my first few rides. Eventually it stopped doing it and has been fine for over 10k miles. Similar situation on my gravel bike (Norco Search). First ride it slipped a bit. I moved it back up, re-applied paste and re-torqued, and it's been fine since. 

On the Roadmachine seatpost, I didn't even notice the seat being lower until the very end of my first 2hr ride, just as I had gotten back to my starting point. My first thought was that I had forgotten to paste/torque it when I did the final assembly, but when we took the post out in the shop, it did have a healthy application of paste on it, and I'm usually pretty thorough when I do final assembly to make sure everything is torqued to spec. It's possible I neglected to do it. I had finished building back in early December and hadn't ridden it until last weekend.

I'm not worried about a catastrophic failure at all. In fact, if I were a betting man, I'd wager that the seatpost is going to be fine in the long run. However, I'm prepared to deal with the warranty thing if I have to. 

I'm in the middle of a 14 week indoor winter training block. Next Sunday will be the next chance I get to ride it outside (weather permitting). I'll update this thread as I get more miles on the bike and see if the slipping persists.


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## cannondaleCAD3

@Migen 21: thank you for your Information. I am very interested in your next "seatpost experience"... @MMSrepBike: this may be correct, but if a slightly overtightened bold is the only solution (...).. But your Explanation leads me to an other question: how does the seatpost clamp of the RM01 look like? is it the same as for TM01?
If so, the only damage which could result from overtightening could be a damaged screw / windings of the clamp. For sure this is not nice, but will be by far cheaper than a damage to the Frame. 

Does anybody know how the clamp Looks like?


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## Migen21

I've not taken mine out to examine it closely. It is similar to that design.

If I have some time later, I may pull it out and take a closer look.


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## cannondaleCAD3

I just ordered my RM01 with Di2 Ultegra... I am very excited to receive it. Delivery will be by mid of March. 25 years of mechanical shifting find an end with that bike. I do not know what is more exciting ... the roadmachine or the Di2 shifting. 

@Migen21:I asked my shop guys and they confirmed that the seatpost clamp Looks like te photo I posted above.

@all:Thank you so far for any Feedback /help given.... ;-)


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## Migen21

Congratulations! Its really a fantastic bike! You'll love the Di2 as well. And FWIW I have two rides since my last post and have not had any more problems with the seatpost slipping.


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## cannondaleCAD3

Does anybody know the weight of the RM01 with Di2 components in Framesize 56cm? Thank you guys! (I guess it will be around 7,8 kg) but I am not sure ...


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## Migen21

My 61cm RM-01 has a Dura Ace 9000 crankset and Ultegra 6870 Di2 derailleurs, Enve SES 3.4 Disc wheels withConti GP4000 28mm tires and weighed just a tad over 17lbs (7.8kg I guess).


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## Pons

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> Does anybody know the weight of the RM01 with Di2 components in Framesize 56cm? Thank you guys! (I guess it will be around 7,8 kg) but I am not sure ...


Hello this is the weight of the RM01 U Di2 in frame size 61, without pedals


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## cannondaleCAD3

Thank you very much for your Feedback, so my 56cm Model will weight around 7,6 kg without pedals. I will Change the saddle for a "1993 Flite Evolution carbon"as this fits me best. This will shave off 100 grams... Do you have any other suggestions to bring down the weight a Little. Maybe I will Change the Ultegra crankset for a Dura Ace later on. Depending on if I will get a good deal... But this should work as Dura Ace 9000 is on sale now... did you do any other changes?


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## Migen21

Are you planning on running the stock wheels? Probably not the ideal component to go weight weenie on, but depending on wheels and tires, you might save a few grams over the stock stuff.

If I recall the built bike comes with pretty nice 3T ergonova carbon bars. If they are anything like the ones that came on my TeamMachine they are fantastic. Probably can't do much better there.

You're stuck with the stock seatpost so really the drivetrain is all that is left. Going full on dura-ace will lighten the bike AND your wallet. Although you might find some bargains on the 9070 stuff since the new 9170 should be available soon (if it's not already).


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## cannondaleCAD3

Yes, I will run the stock wheels, which are claimed 1.450(?) gr., but I do not intend to spend big bucks on weight-weenie things. But there are only few possibilities for saving a Little weight. I guess I will start with myself and decrease the beer volume ;-). At the Moment I am thinking of changing the cranks to Dura Ace, because they are lighter, look better and would give me the possibility to go from 172,5 to 175mm. The stock crank length is 172,5. Which crank length do you ride?


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## Rasto

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> @Migen 21: thank you for your Information. I am very interested in your next "seatpost experience"... @MMSrepBike: this may be correct, but if a slightly overtightened bold is the only solution (...).. But your Explanation leads me to an other question: how does the seatpost clamp of the RM01 look like? is it the same as for TM01?
> If so, the only damage which could result from overtightening could be a damaged screw / windings of the clamp. For sure this is not nice, but will be by far cheaper than a damage to the Frame.
> 
> Does anybody know how the clamp Looks like?


This is the clamp from my RM01. I removed it because I plan to upgrade it with Ti screw in order to shave few grams 

I think I may have a solution for seatclamp issue. I experienced the same problem on my BMC timemachine TMR01 which has very similar clamping mechanism. I tried carbon paste, paper, sandpaper etc. It helped little bit but did not solve the problem completly. Then after one ride I incidentally tried to tighten the screw (WITHOUT LOOSENING!!!) using torque wrench set at recommendet torque and surprisingly it was far from being tightened to recommended torque despite the fact that before the ride I tightened it precisely to that torque! So I did an experiment  I used multitool to carefully tighten the clamp during the ride each 5 or 10km. I was able to tighten it maybe 4-5 times but then it did not get loose anymore. Since that time I did 8000 km without touching it and seatpost is still at the correct height. I experienced the problem also on my new RM01. I did the same tightening procedure and voila... it works. So you can try this without risking seatpost/frame damage due to overtightening.


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## Rasto

Overtightening of seatclamp may lead to seatpost damage! At least on BMC TMR01. This is what happened to the seatpost when previous owner of my BMC TMR01 overtightened the clamp...


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## Rasto

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> Thank you very much for your Feedback, so my 56cm Model will weight around 7,6 kg without pedals. I will Change the saddle for a "1993 Flite Evolution carbon"as this fits me best. This will shave off 100 grams... Do you have any other suggestions to bring down the weight a Little. Maybe I will Change the Ultegra crankset for a Dura Ace later on. Depending on if I will get a good deal... But this should work as Dura Ace 9000 is on sale now... did you do any other changes?


-depending on type of your wheels and tyres you can shave off as much as 200-250g just by going tubeless...
-you can throw quick release lever from thru axle (30g) (assuming you carry multitool)
-if you are not too heavy or ride in high mountains you can save up to 90g by using light 140mm rotors (https://r2-bike.com/HOPE-Brake-Disc-Saw-Floating-Rotor-2-Piece-X2-Race-140-mm)
-titanium screws (or even aluminium for top cap, chain holder) wil save something
- of course dura-ace... Its not cheap but instead of crankset I would start with shifters. Stock rs685 are really heavy. New DA di2 r9170 is expensive but just shifters will save more than 300g!


This is my stock RM01 ultegra.
Now it's 8,8 kg with pedals. I want to get to 7 - 7,1. It won't be cheap for sure but I will change everything . I will use Dura-Ace di2 9070 from my previous bike, r9170 shifters and calipers, new Roval clx 50 wheels (very light, aero and tubeless), 140mm light rotors, new Pro Compact bars, Look Keo carbon-ti pedals. I will throw headset spacers, use low stack BMC ICS spacer, Ti and Al screws where possible, remove QR lever from axle, S-works power seat...


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## Migen21

The guys at the shop have a little trick for the RM01 seatpost slipping. They torque it to 3nm, then grab the seat and twistt it hard back and forth. If you hear a small pop, re-torque. Repeat until you can't hear the pop.

Apparently when you torque the clamp it can get twisted a little bit. Twisting the seat back and forth should allow the wedge to seat squarely.

They also ordered me a 30mm offset seatpost, as my seat was all the way back on the rails. 



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## cannondaleCAD3

Hello Rasto! thank you for this Information. I think I will pick up the STI-shifters for a Change in the future... I did not think of that! If it saves 300 gr. it will be worth the Change. Will those work with the existing (old) Ultegra Di2 stuff?


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## Migen21

Pons said:


> Hi
> I just saw this plastic cover on a RM01 in a shop (see pic), I suppose the old little piece (round) was easy to lose. I saw it on a "old" color scheme model.
> Second, I must say that the seatpost is a bit slippy, you have to close it a bit more than recommended, then it is OK.
> 
> View attachment 317795
> 
> I


I was in my shop this weekend talking about the issue with the slipping seatpost - while I was there they put the new cap on it. The nice thing about this one is it's captured by the seatpost, so it's a lot harder to lose it.

They said they talked to the rep about the slipping seatpost issue. Besides the "_Torque -> Twist -> Re-Torque -> Repeat as needed_" thing, he also suggested to put some grease on the mating surfaces of the wedges to prevent them from potentially binding.


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## cannondaleCAD3

*photo*

This sounds interesting... in my opinion the wedges of the clamp are designed wrong. If you take those and increase the contact area of both wedges by lowering the angle of both wedges, then it should be: 1. easier to torque the wedges (less power required) and there is more contact between the wedges... furthermore the wedges / the whole clamp has more contact area in the seat tube... I can not add a sketch here.. ... I may be wrong, as I assume BMCs Engineering should be very good,but when looking at the clamp mechanism my first thought was that it could have been done in a better way...


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## Rasto

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> Hello Rasto! thank you for this Information. I think I will pick up the STI-shifters for a Change in the future... I did not think of that! If it saves 300 gr. it will be worth the Change. Will those work with the existing (old) Ultegra Di2 stuff?


This is a good question. According to this E-tube compatibility chart: 2016-2017 SHIMANO Product Information Web r9170 shifters should work with 6870/9070 front and rear derailleurs (or even 10 speed group if I understand the chart correctly). But for full compatibility (including synchro shift) you would need new bluetooth battery BT-DN110 and some firmware update.


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## pjcandre

Hi,

I'm thinking on geting a Roadmachine 02 Ultegra.
I've got a sizing doubt, because I'm 1,75 meters and an inseam of 79 cm.
Should I get a 51 or a 54 frame?

I currently own a Specialized Roubaix SL2, size 54, with na 90 cm stem.

Thanks,

Paulo


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## cannondaleCAD3

I would go and check sizes in your shop. I RODE 58 cm frames for over 20 years and was surprised that I need to buy a 56 cm RM. (87cm/182cm). 58 would be too large for me.


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## dirtiClydesdale

Does anyone know the link to the weight limit of the BMC RoadMachine? This thread plus the "Quiver Killer" thread makes me seriously think of putting this bike on the short list. I know Im overweight right now but this bikes aesthetics alone makes me want to get out there and ride!!! Now, its time for me to look at a good pair of wheels to accompany this bike and make this whole thing work!


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## MMsRepBike

dirtiClydesdale said:


> Does anyone know the link to the weight limit of the BMC RoadMachine? This thread plus the "Quiver Killer" thread makes me seriously think of putting this bike on the short list. I know Im overweight right now but this bikes aesthetics alone makes me want to get out there and ride!!! Now, its time for me to look at a good pair of wheels to accompany this bike and make this whole thing work!


Nope, but I use the 240lb mark as a rule of thumb.

I too am having a hard time keeping this off of a buying list, love the geometry, especially of the fendered one.


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## Migen21

I don't think BMC publishes a max weight limit ( I could be wrong).

I rode a BMC GF-01 for 2 years starting at 270lbs down to 220 lbs with no issues. I had a set of Chris King/HED Belgium Plus 32 spoke wheels and they worked flawlessly also.

My experience with the GF-01 contributed largely to my decision to stay with the brand when I upgraded to the RM 01.

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## MMsRepBike

*New Color*


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## dirtiClydesdale

Migen21 said:


> I rode a BMC GF-01 for 2 years starting at 270lbs down to 220 lbs with no issues. I had a set of Chris King/HED Belgium Plus 32 spoke wheels and they worked flawlessly also.
> 
> My experience with the GF-01 contributed largely to my decision to stay with the brand when I upgraded to the RM 01.


 Migen21... with your and some senior forum members assessment of the bike... Im seriously considering of taking this route. I did want to ask you a quick question (without derailing this topic) about the HED Plus 32 rims with Chris Kings? Im looking at the same exact spec but what price point am I looking at? If I view it from wheelbuilder.com it looks like its going to be another $1200 to get the pair of wheels.

But in regards to this bike, I am probably going to get the RM01 with Ultegra DI2 (Orange on Black). Even though Im not very fond of having the primary color as black (Im more of a hi-vis color friendly type of guy.) I wish there was a way to purchase the green frameset and build it with DI2 Ultegra?!?!

It is more expensive than the Domane I was leaning towards but the BMC really looks like a sexy machine and it definitely checks all the boxes! If I can preempt my purchase with a new wheelset with 30s/32s before I start with the bike then I think it would be a win-win for myself.

Last question is: The articles state that the mfg max is 30 but has anyone else tried 32s or higher?


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## Migen21

I got my HED/King wheels through my LBS, where I buy my bikes, and got them at a substantial discount - This was three years ago now and I think I paid about $875 (rim brake version) plus tax for the set. I can't remember if they were a special order from Chris King Wheelshop, or if they built them elsewhere - I just told them what I wanted and they showed up a week or two later - but yes, $1200 retail sounds about right for the disc wheelset.

BTW, you can get King built wheels directly from their wheel shop, but I don't see the 32/32 on there - only 28/28. They might build them 32/32 if you call them. I doubt the price would change much unless they charge extra for a special order.
Chris King Wheels.

Re: tires, I did try a set of 32mm Clement Strada USH. These things are really beefy in just about every way - I was seriously hoping to use them for a winter and gravel tire, however...









...they were a little too cozy to the chain stay for my liking (inside of 2mm). With rim and tire flex there is a good chance they would rub, especially at low pressures. A skinnier 32 might work, but I'm really happy with the 28mm Continental 4 seasons I have on it now .(will switch to 28mm Continental GP4000 SII once the weather dries up and the crud is off the roads). I will experiment with other tires as the riding season comes around - right now the weather is bad and I'm mostly riding indoors.

Re: colors, honestly, I kinda like the Black/Orange and almost bought it. I ended up with the "Team Black" frameset and the built bike looks a lot better to me than the frameset did in pictures. 

This is my current favorite picture of my built bike. FYI I built mine up with the "High Stack" variation of the cap spacer, and I have a single 1cm spacer and the 120mm stem- the angle of the picture makes the shift levers look kinda high, but they are nearly flat (I like a little angle for wrist comfort). Edit to add: these are the Continental GP 4000 SII 28mm tires - you can see that this is a lot of tire - the only reason I'm interested in 30mm and 32mm tires would be for a second set of dedicated gravel wheels.











If you built it up from a frameset with whatever components you want - depending on who does the work, and what components you get you *might* save a little money, especially since you don't have to pay for the OEM wheels. 

If you don't like black, these are the new frameset colors available per the BMC website. They should be in the supply system now, or, very soon. 

roadmachine 01 ONE ? Road ? BMC Switzerland

*Silver*









*Mexico Blue*









*Team Red*










Make sure you are aware of the seatpost issue - Mine was creeping down about 1-2mm every ride (2+hour rides). I've tried a couple of tricks (noted in this thread), but the weather has been too crappy to ride outside lately, so I'm not sure if it's resolved yet. At your weight, it will likely be an issue (minor or otherwise). At this point, I'm not terribly concerned, but that is mostly due to the fact that I have a really good relationship with the shop where i purchased the bike, and am comfortable that they will take care of me if it becomes a more serious problem.

Something else to understand about the RM-01 that some may not be aware of (unless you've built the bike up). The fork steerer and stem design are unique - which is a polite way of saying _*proprietary*_ - the steerer is not round - it has flat sides to allow for the internal cable routing. It also has shims that go into the gaps inside the stem to help it grip the steerer. The steerer has a dense foam material inside of it that has a nut threaded into it. This nut is what you screw the stem cap into. So far it's all worked flawlessly, but be aware that you aren't going to swap out off the shelf parts here - if you need to replace any of it, its going to have to be ordered from BMC, including the stems and stem spacers.

It's very difficult to describe this, and I didn't bother to take pictures while I was building it. You can see how it all goes together in the assembly instruction manual at this link.

https://www.bmc-switzerland.com/fil...2016-06-09_Roadmachine_Assembly_Manual_EN.pdf

I knew all of this before I bought my frameset - and I'd be lying if I said I wasn't concerned about the proprietary nature of the design. I pondered buying an RM-02 instead, which uses a standard steerer/stem/bar setup, but ultimately, with reassurances from the mechanics, shop manager and the BMC rep that they would 'take care of me' if there were issues, I decided to stick with the RM-01 ,and, so far so good.

Feel free to ask any more questions - use PM's if you are concerned about thread derails, etc...


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## cannondaleCAD3

You can bring down the Price for the ultegra di2 model (ifyou do not mind using the stock wheels) by negotiating hard! ;-).... I also ordered the stock Version and wanted to Change wheels, because the 3T wheels are too expensive for what they can offer (IMO). My LBS did not want to Change and I did not want to pay, but I can live with the 3T wheels. So I got a fair Discount which was in any case cheaper than building up starting from a frameset. I will receive mine mid of March, but I am worried / excited about the seatpost issue... I will update you on that. Keep an eye on the complete RM LTD, which offers partial DURA ACE and is a very good deal IMO. Only the wheelset can not be clearly specified... could not find any info in the Web...


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## dirtiClydesdale

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> You can bring down the Price for the ultegra di2 model (ifyou do not mind using the stock wheels) by negotiating hard! ;-).... I also ordered the stock Version and wanted to Change wheels, because the 3T wheels are too expensive for what they can offer (IMO). My LBS did not want to Change and I did not want to pay, but I can live with the 3T wheels. So I got a fair Discount which was in any case cheaper than building up starting from a frameset. I will receive mine mid of March, but I am worried / excited about the seatpost issue... I will update you on that. Keep an eye on the complete RM LTD, which offers partial DURA ACE and is a very good deal IMO. Only the wheelset can not be clearly specified... could not find any info in the Web...


YES! Please keep us all informed! I look forward to more posts about this bike. And I too am concerned about the seat post since it will effect me more due to my weight! =)


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## cannondaleCAD3

@ Rasto: I just did some Research and found out, that the weight saving on the STI R9170 will be around 100 gr. compared to the Standard STI´s... I think we have to search for another item to save 300 gr. ;
Dura ACE: 365 gr. (according to shimano), ST-R785: 498 gr. (according to Shimano), This means 133 gr. saving ;-)


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## cannondaleCAD3

How many Headset spacers do you use on your RM01? Do I have to cut the hydraulic cables when changing spacer Setup. I think I will Need to go with "High stack" - spacer and 1 additional spacer, maybe 2 additional spacers. So my Switch will be from stock Level (3 spacers) to 1 spacer at least.... I will also ask my LBS when Fitting the bike, but I am interested in your experiences .


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## Migen21

I used one 1cm spacer on mine, but I opted for the "High Stack" option.

The spacers are 'split', so you can add-remove them without having to cut or remove any cables - just pull the stem off and modify as needed - Of course steerer length could be an issue - You wouldn't be able to use the BMC spacers above the stem, although thinking about it- a standard round spacer should work ok.

Take a look at the manual to see how it all goes together.

http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/file...2016-06-09_Roadmachine_Assembly_Manual_EN.pdf


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## Rasto

cannondaleCAD3 said:


> @ Rasto: I just did some Research and found out, that the weight saving on the STI R9170 will be around 100 gr. compared to the Standard STI´s... I think we have to search for another item to save 300 gr. ;
> Dura ACE: 365 gr. (according to shimano), ST-R785: 498 gr. (according to Shimano), This means 133 gr. saving ;-)


If you read my previous post carefully, you will see that I compared new di2 DA r9170 shifters to mechanical rs685 which are currently installed on my RM01 ultegra. One pair of rs685 shifters is about 645g (according to weights)! R9170 real weight is about 316g according to this source (find photo attached).
So there is weight saving of 329g! 
I suggest not to rely on weights provided by shimano because you actually don't know what's in it... (hose, housing, cable, fittings etc.)

But I agree that if your bike is already equipped with an electric shimano group with ST-R785 shifters than upgrade to r9170 may not be that interesting. If that's the case you can save a lot of grams by going tubeless for example 

To adress your question about spacers; My bike came with a high stack ICS spacer and 3 x 1 cm split spacers (13g each). To achieve the same riding position like on my previous bike I have to remove all 1 cm split spacers and use a low stack ICS spacer. As Migen21 mentioned you don't have to open braking system to add/remove 1 cm spacers but to change the ICS spacer you are going to have to at least disconnect brake hoses from levers or even cut/change them to compensate for lenght... 

BTW I took weight of the low stack spacer and I was surprised that it weights just 29 g (carbon). Although I don't know the weight of high stack spacer. I guess I will save about 80-90g by this change (3x 1cm spacer, low ICS spacer and cut steerer), so I'm super happy


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## cannondaleCAD3

Hello Rasto, this is great Information at all! Thank you for that! I did not know about the exact height of the spacers, which is answered now. Honestly I did not read it carrefully... your bike is equipped with mechanical shifting... I know that, but forgot it while comparing components ;-). Thank you also for the weight Information on the spacers.


----------



## Rasto

It's ok  Did you already make an order? If yes which version/colour did you choose?

Edit: Sorry, I just noticed that you answered this question in your previous post


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

Yes, I already ordered a Di2 Model RM01 in Black/orange, which was my favourite colour from the beginning... Normally I ride my Roadbike 6-10 years.. therefore I Need to choose a colour which is OK for that period of time... ;-)


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

Does anybody here own the garmin Mount for the RM01 stem? I saw it in some bike-tests on the web, but do not find it anywhere for purchase. ...


----------



## Migen21

cannondale CAD3 said:


> Does anybody here own the garmin Mount for the RM01 stem? I saw it in some bike-tests on the web, but do not find it anywhere for purchase. ...




When I bought my bike, it wasn't available yet - that was back in Nov - I haven't checked since. 

I don't use a Garmin (I use Wahoo Elemnt), so I'm not even sure I need it - hopefully the device adapter is interchangeable.


----------



## Rasto

I'm interested in the garmin mount as well. I communicated with the czech distributor and according to them the mount (301007 ICS Stem Garmin/GoPro mount set) will be available 6/2017.


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

That´s great News... then we have to be Patient until June 17. If it is priced like the bikes, then it will cost as much as a set of cheap wheels


----------



## Migen21

I have been shopping around for a decent tubeless gravel tire that would fit between the chainstays on my RoadMachine RM-01.

The best I have come up with so far is the Schwalbe G-One Speed - 700x30mm

I've never used these tires before, and had some bad experiences with some of the original Schwalbe One's when they first came out. That said, these look ideal for mixed tarmac/gravel/dirt roads, which is what I plan to use them for. I don't expect they will be long wearing, but if they are durable and don't cut sidewalls on gravel, I'll live with a short lifespan. 

I have yet to take them for their first ride, so not sure on pressures yet. I'll probably start at around 60f 65r and work my way down from there. 

Here are some pictures of them mounted on a set of HED Belgium Plus wheels.

*Looks to be a fairly comfortable 2.5mm on the right chainstay (it's not as close as it looks in the picture)*










*A little more room on the left side*










*Lots of room in front of the rear tire*










*Calipers showing the width at ~30.4mm*










*And a view of the tire profile on the rim*


----------



## dirtiClydesdale

I went to the lbs BMC vendor today and unfortunately I felt the RM01 was still pretty aggressive posture for my needs. Im trying to find if there are different stems that come in a "positive angle" (Im trying to find out the right words to describe...) vs just the different length of stems?

What I felt is that I was "reaching" to far forward. Im sure that can be fixed with a positive stem but since the RM01 stem is proprietary... do they have that? While I liked the test ride... its difficult to determine if the true comfort is there?

Also, the lbs store informed me that I should be concerned about the seat stem (not the actual stem but what the stem goes into... again, trying to find the appropriate word choice) reports that it has been "cracking!" And the BMC warranty can normally take up to 3 months to deliver a new frame? Are there any known information about this information?


----------



## Migen21

The stem on the RoadMachine only comes in one angle - there are various lengths available from BMC.

What it does have, rather than a variable angle stem, is an alternative stem cap piece - there are two options - Low Stack and High Stack - using these, combined with the 1cm spacers is how you raise or lower the front end of the bike.

And if make the RM01 front end work you could consider the RM-03, which uses a standard stem/bar setup (cost of of the hidden cable routing in the bars). It should be a little more accomodating.

If that doesn't work, the trusty old tried and true BMC GF-01 has a sloping top tube, higher stand and more relaxed geometry.

*Here is an image showing the stack height options - not sure which one you were trying today - you might ask your shop about this - it should be included with the bike, and they should be willing to swap it out for you (swapping this piece requires disconnecting the brake lines).*









*Here is a pretty good view of the "High Stack" stack piece on my 61cm bike.*


----------



## dirtiClydesdale

Migen... I totally hear you and the bike had the "high stack" on it. I kinda think it was a longer stem. While I truly loved the bike and very comfortable on my test ride... its going to become a much larger expense than msrp of the bike. Unfortunately I got a final quote from the lbs and the shop wont credit the parts to be changed so that will be an added expense on top of the bike! =(


----------



## Migen21

The most important thing is that it fits - if it doesn't look for something that does 

I just wanted to make sure you were aware of the options.

If you have BMC dealer see if they have a GF-01 in your size - it's probably a more friendly fit for you.

Specialized Roubaix and Trek Domane are probably worth a look as well.


----------



## dirtiClydesdale

Migen21 said:


> The most important thing is that it fits - if it doesn't look for something that does
> 
> I just wanted to make sure you were aware of the options.
> 
> If you have BMC dealer see if they have a GF-01 in your size - it's probably a more friendly fit for you.
> 
> Specialized Roubaix and Trek Domane are probably worth a look as well.


Yeah... unfortunately, the dealer confirmed that they will not credit the rm01 replacement parts and wheelset after the fitting. So, I will be paying the price for the bike plus full price for replacement items. But, going project one trek allows a credit for items replaced. So... it looks like im going that route!


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

I also wanted to trade in the Standard wheels and the LBS was not amused... I have to say: I can live with These wheels, but they are overpriced in my opinion. Therefore I asked my shop to Change the wheels. They were not amused, but gave me some other Options (all cheaper!) - in the end I got a fair Discount when taking the bike with the 3T wheelset.. in Addition I will get my handlebar changed from 42 to 44 cm for free. Therefore my Suggestion: try to find another shop! This should be the Minimum Service they can do for you. If they are not interested in doing this, what will they do if there are any Problems. I assume you are talking about RM01, which costs as much as a small car... I think it should be possible for any shop to come up to customers expectations up to some Level. Maybe you have to buy a second stem, as this is a RM01 specific part, which they can not sell very easy to any other customer, but also your shop should be interested in the fact that you are seated / fitted well on your new bike!


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

@Migen21: would be very interested in side-view photos of your bike, as I plan to Change the Ultegra crankset and install a DURA ACE crank. But I am not sure if to take the "old" crank, which I think you have on your bike... or if I should take the R9100 crank, which requires me to Change the Ultegra FD as well. Seems the "old" Dura ace cranks look quite good on the black bike, which I did not expect to do


----------



## Migen21

Thes are the best shots I can give you of the drive side crank (until the weather improves)- it's the Dura Ace 9000 crankset. Rear Derailleur is the Ultegra 6870 GS - 11-32 6800 Cassette


----------



## cyclechris

*RM01 overweight*

Just for info: Unfortunately, the red RM01 Frame is overweight. 1115 grams whitout any small parts (54) instead of 920 gram (Official statement of BMC). I am a bit disappointed.
BMC says it is because of the paint Job and they have manufacturing tolerances of +-10%









What do you think about that?


----------



## vic bastige

I love the looks and concept of this bike, but at North of 1100 grams, it is beginning to sound more like a gravel crusher than quiver killer. Still, a very, VERY nice looking ride with great early feedback.


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

Any comments on the Standard saddle of the RM01 (FIZIK aliante R5)? I know it depends on personal preferences, but I would be interested in Feedback. I think I will Change mine for a 1991 Flite Carbon Evolution saddle, which I ride for over 25 years now ;-). Just thinking if I should try the Fizik, or if I should Switch to the Flite from the beginning. IMO the Flite would shave off some grams, as it is only 150gr....


----------



## boogermin

Made some changes. Got rid of the Enve 4.5ARs because I was done fighting to get tires on/off them. Replaced them with the new Zipp 303 tubeless FC disc wheels. Running 30mm Schwalbe S-One tires, and the bike is SMOOTH. Replaced the DA 9070 FD/RD with 9170, but I'm keeping the DA 9000 cranks. Saw a DA 9100 crank that was pretty scratched up, so that was the end of that. Just waiting on the DA 9170 shifters to become available, and I think I'll be set.

Also, it took a bit of effort, but I managed to run all the E-tube wiring inside my 3T Ergonova bars using the bar-end junction box. Cockpit area is nice and tidy, without a junction box hanging off the bottom of the stem. 

Is it spring, yet? Zwift has been great, but I'm kinda over the trainer...


----------



## Rasto

boogermin said:


> Made some changes. Got rid of the Enve 4.5ARs because I was done fighting to get tires on/off them. Replaced them with the new Zipp 303 tubeless FC disc wheels. Running 30mm Schwalbe S-One tires, and the bike is SMOOTH. Replaced the DA 9070 FD/RD with 9170, but I'm keeping the DA 9000 cranks. Saw a DA 9100 crank that was pretty scratched up, so that was the end of that. Just waiting on the DA 9170 shifters to become available, and I think I'll be set.
> 
> Also, it took a bit of effort, but I managed to run all the E-tube wiring inside my 3T Ergonova bars using the bar-end junction box. Cockpit area is nice and tidy, without a junction box hanging off the bottom of the stem.
> 
> Is it spring, yet? Zwift has been great, but I'm kinda over the trainer...


Wow it looks very clean but I would prefer black crankset. I think that this "Old" DA 9000 crankset looks fine on white frame but Here I would switch to black DA 9100. But it's personal preference .

Was the tire change the only problem with your Enve 4.5 disc? Could you please compare enves and zipp 303 in terms of feel, stiffness, responsiveness in descend and aero drag?


----------



## boogermin

Rasto said:


> Wow it looks very clean but I would prefer black crankset. I think that this "Old" DA 9000 crankset looks fine on white frame but Here I would switch to black DA 9100. But it's personal preference .
> 
> Was the tire change the only problem with your Enve 4.5 disc? Could you please compare enves and zipp 303 in terms of feel, stiffness, responsiveness in descend and aero drag?


@rasto: The only reason I changed the wheelset was due to me having difficulty changing tires. I didn't want to be in a situation where I'm out for a ride, get a flat, but can't change tires due to the rim. In terms of feel, I think they're very comparable wheels in terms of stiffness. If anything, the 4.5ARs might be marginally better in x-winds, but obviously that's a qualitative statement. 

The only thing I miss from the Enve wheels are the Chris King R45 center lock hubs. Was never a fan of Zipp hubs and 6-bolt rotor mounts, but thus far everything's working out well.


----------



## Migen21

I agree - those wheels (AR4.5 Disc) are obnoxious - I returned a set due to not being able to address flats in the field. Even with levers, and under ideal conditions in a bike shop, it's a nightmare - I was seriously worried about damaging the rim flange. Trying to remove/replace a tire on those wheels under less than ideal conditions (cold, wet, dark, dirty/greasy hands, etc...) - it's not even worth considering.

I posted about my experience with the at the time over in the wheels and tires forum. 

Enve opted to go with 'must be tubeless only - no folding clincher tires'.
https://enve.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/213882023-SES-4-5-AR-Tire-Clearance-Notice


And, the AR 4.5 AR Disc is a non-ETRTO standard wheel. Although, Enve is actively petitioning to get the standard changed 
https://enve.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/212519966-ENVE-and-the-ETRTO-Standard

Let's hope that petition fails, the last thing we need are varying wheel/tire standards when trying to figure out which tire works with which wheel. Especially now with Tubeless tires becoming more common and popular. IF this happens, I expect a lot of 'will it fit, or won't it' threads in Wheels and Tires about this topic.

I ended up with a standard (literally) set of Enve 3.4 SES Discs on my Roadmachine (lots of pics in this thread). Tire mounting, both tubes and tubeless has been a non-issue - no tools needed for Schwalbe G-One Speed (tubeless) and Continental 4 Seasons (with tubes obviously).


----------



## Rasto

Thank you guys for useful information. I still haven't decided which wheels to get. Initially I wanted to upgrade my RM01 with the proven zipp 303 (tubeless) but after specialized announced the new roval clx 50 I started to lean toward them. 200+ gr. weight saving over zipp 303 sounds very interesting for me and first ride reviews look good so far.


----------



## ribbij

Awaiting my Rm01 Mexico blue build. Going with the new sram red etap hydro groupset and enve 3.4 disc wheelset. Still going to be a month waiting on sram goodness. Trying to keep my mind occupied reading forums while I wait...









Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## garaventa

I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.

All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.

What about your information status in this matter in United States?

Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?

Thank´s for your comments and best regards from Germany.


----------



## ribbij

Waiting for new dura ace components in July is one of the reasons I ultimately choose the new sram etap setup which I should get in the next two weeks.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## Migen21

garaventa said:


> I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.
> 
> All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.
> 
> What about your information status in this matter in United States?
> 
> 
> Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?
> 
> Thank´s for your comments and best regards from Germany.


My shop is being told July for some of the new DA stuff as well. Specifically the cranks and derailleurs.

I didn't want to wait for Shimano to get off their asses, so I built my RM-01 back in Nov using DA9000 crank, 9070 shifters, and Utegra 6870 derailleurs (I wanted the 11-32 compatibility in back anyway).


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

I rode my RM01 Di2 for about 1000Km during the last 6 weeks. I am totally happy with this bike! Despite the fact that it is really heavy (7,9kg including pedals and Cages) there is a slightly Migration of the seatpost. My local shop recommended not to use the full 5NM, which were suggested by BMC. They told me to Keep torque below. What I will do is dissassemble the post and put some "Finish line - fiber grip" on it. At the Moment I did torque to 4NM and there is some slightly movement ... which is about 1 or 2 mm over a distance of 200km... Does anyone else have recommendations for carbon /seatpost mounting liquids / gels? e.g. Muc off Carbon gripper?


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

I would suggest to go for the Standard 805 Brakes &785STI Levers. I own both and they are superb. For sure there is a reason that shimano is in backlog with the parts (Quality issue?)But dealing a lot with japanese sales People I can confirm, that Japan People will not sell a product which is 99,9%.... if it is not 100%,then you will not find it on the market! If your Intention to buy dura ace is to get a light bike, Forget it ;-).... the RM01 will not be a light bike in any way. But do´nt worry... that´s no Problem! It is an outstanding bike! Greets fromGermany!
PS: in my opinion Shimano has the best disc - Brakes (and that is why I Chose the roadmachine) - therefore SRAM is not a solution for me.


----------



## Rasto

garaventa said:


> I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.
> 
> All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.
> 
> What about your information status in this matter in United States?
> 
> Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?
> 
> Thank´s for your comments and best regards from Germany.


Hi Frank! I also plan to upgrade my stock RM01 ultegra with dura-ace 9170. I understand your frustration because I'm in similar situation, just waiting and waiting but 9170 is still out of sight . At least I have my original setup with rs685 shifters so I can ride my RM...



cannondaleCAD3 said:


> the RM01 will not be a light bike in any way


I agree that RM01 is not superlight bike but for me 7-7,2kg is still very decent weight for a road bike and with RM01 frameset and careful choice of parts this weight is achievable without compromising stiffness and/or durability.


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## Migen21

I thought I posted this in this thread previously.

I'm 6' 5" (195cm) and 220lb (91kg), so the slipping seatpost was going to be a concern for me.

However, following these steps seems to have stopped the creeping for me. At least for the last six or seven rides over 500+ miles.



Remove the seatpost from the bike and clean it thoroughly with something that will remove any grease or oil residue that might have contaminated it during installation.


Carefully remove the wedge clamp from the inside of the seat tube. Be careful you don't drop it into the seat tube, as it could be a hassle to get back out.


Clean the inside of the seat tube the same way, to remove any kind of contamination that may be acting as a lubricant. Get as far down inside as you can and be sure to clean the area where you removed the wedge clamp.


Loosen the wedge clamp screw completely, and use your fingers to work some grease down into the gap where the wedge plate faces meet. You might have to work the clamp screw up and down to get the grease spread thoroughly. The idea is to lubricate the sliding faces of the wedge clamp so they don't bind when you tighten it. Note that the wedge clamp screw is captured, and shouldn't be removed - don't take the clamp apart, just wedge grease into the mating surfaces from the outside as thoroughly as you can.



Reinstall the seat post to the correct height, and torque to manufacturer specs. The, with the bike secured (someone holding it or in a stand), grab front and rear of the seat with both hands and give it a strong firm twist back and forth several times. You may hear a light click or thud sound if the wedge clamp was bound. Reapply the manufacturers recommended torque (don't loosen the screw) and repeat this process until you are certain the clamp is not bound and is fully seated against the seatpost.


Take it for a long ride, and monitor for slipping - I use a wrap of colored vinyl tape on the seatpost just above the seat tube to make it easy to see. After the first ride, re-torque to manufacturer spec (without loosening). This should ensure that the seat clamp wedge is fully tightened against the seatpost.



If you loosen the seatpost to make an adjustment, repeat the torque/twist/retorqe process to ensure you get the wedge clamp fully seated against the seatpost without binding.


I did this a couple of months ago and have no had any slipping problems since then.


----------



## ribbij

Migen21 said:


> I thought I posted this in this thread previously.
> 
> I'm 6' 5" (195cm) and 220lb (91kg), so the slipping seatpost was going to be a concern for me.
> 
> However, following these steps seems to have stopped the creeping for me. At least for the last six or seven rides over 500+ miles.
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the seatpost from the bike and clean it thoroughly with something that will remove any grease or oil residue that might have contaminated it during installation.
> 
> 
> Carefully remove the wedge clamp from the inside of the seat tube. Be careful you don't drop it into the seat tube, as it could be a hassle to get back out.
> 
> 
> Clean the inside of the seat tube the same way, to remove any kind of contamination that may be acting as a lubricant. Get as far down inside as you can and be sure to clean the area where you removed the wedge clamp.
> 
> 
> Loosen the wedge clamp screw completely, and use your fingers to work some grease down into the gap where the wedge plate faces meet. You might have to work the clamp screw up and down to get the grease spread thoroughly. The idea is to lubricate the sliding faces of the wedge clamp so they don't bind when you tighten it. Note that the wedge clamp screw is captured, and shouldn't be removed - don't take the clamp apart, just wedge grease into the mating surfaces from the outside as thoroughly as you can.
> 
> 
> 
> Reinstall the seat post to the correct height, and torque to manufacturer specs. The, with the bike secured (someone holding it or in a stand), grab front and rear of the seat with both hands and give it a strong firm twist back and forth several times. You may hear a light click or thud sound if the wedge clamp was bound. Reapply the manufacturers recommended torque (don't loosen the screw) and repeat this process until you are certain the clamp is not bound and is fully seated against the seatpost.
> 
> 
> Take it for a long ride, and monitor for slipping - I use a wrap of colored vinyl tape on the seatpost just above the seat tube to make it easy to see. After the first ride, re-torque to manufacturer spec (without loosening). This should ensure that the seat clamp wedge is fully tightened against the seatpost.
> 
> 
> 
> If you loosen the seatpost to make an adjustment, repeat the torque/twist/retorqe process to ensure you get the wedge clamp fully seated against the seatpost without binding.
> 
> 
> I did this a couple of months ago and have no had any slipping problems since then.


Pickup tomorrow!









Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## ribbij

ribbij said:


> Pickup tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk












Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## garaventa

Hi,

what frame size is it?

I estimate it is 52cm??


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## ribbij

garaventa said:


> Hi,
> 
> what frame size is it?
> 
> I estimate it is 52cm??


54

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## dhmc03

Anyone have measured weight of RM02 ultegra, stock 56?


----------



## dhmc03

dhmc03 said:


> Anyone have measured weight of RM02 ultegra, stock 56?


Anyone?


----------



## Rasto

dhmc03: I can´t answer your question but my stock RM01 ultegra 56 cm was 8.8 kg so RM02 probably will be similar weight maybe a bit heavier.

Anyway, I just upgraded my bike with roval clx 50 disc wheelset which I now run tubeless. Together with change of saddle it reducet the weight by almost 1kg. So now it weights 7,94 kg. It´s stoll heavy compared to regular high-end road bike but this is just the beginning . So will see if I can get it to my target weight of 7-7.2


----------



## Migen21

I had an interesting experience on my RM-01 this weekend.

On Sunday, we had some nice warm weather, and I was looking to do a fairly long flat ride.

End up doing 70 miles of paved rail trail at a pretty good clip. 

Just about halfway through the ride, the bike developed a fairly loud creak. In or out of the saddle, any time I was applying more than a little power.

It was loud enough that I was worried something had broken or come loose, so I nursed it back home and took it into the shop.

I went in today and talked to the mechanics about it. They agreed it sounded like a bottom bracket, so we pulled the cranks and torq tight BB Adapter, re-greased all of the interfaces and re-torqued all of the chainring bolts. None of this helped. The creak was still there.

At that point one of the guys started going over everything (stem, bars, seatpost, pedals, etc..) just loosening and re-torquing, double checking everything. Again, no improvement.

Then one of the guys had an ah-ha moment, reached down and grabbed the rear thru axle lever arm and gave it a twist. Sure enough, just turning the bolt made that same creaky grindy noise. So he pulled the rear wheel, and the thru axle adapters from the frame, including the derailleur hangar, and cleaned it all and reassembled it with a thin layer of lithium grease, and sure enough the noise was gone. Just for the heck of it we gave the same treatment do the front axle and interfaces. The bike is perfectly quiet now. 

I had built the bike up myself from the frameset, and just out pure laziness the thru axle bolts and threads were all dry. It was something I had planned to get around to when I gave the bike a once-over after the first ride, and just never did it.

Anyway, lesson learned. Thru axles are new to me on this bike. 

I'm not sure why the noise came on so suddenly and dramatically (it was loud enough that people were giving me funny looks  ). It was the first really warm (80+ degree) day we've had this year. Other than that, no idea.


----------



## garaventa

Thank´s for posting this detailed information!!
I´m sure that will be interesting for all of us in future when thru axle bolts will be more common as today.

I still wait for the components of the new Dura Ace 9170 (Di2/Disc) components in oder to build up my new RM.

My local dealer promised me that the German Shimano-distributor will start shipping the stuff in the beginning of July.

What about the missing 9170 components in USA?

Do you have already something on the road or even seen in the shops?

Best regards 

Frank


----------



## Migen21

My local LBS has a 2018 SLR-01 on display in full 9170 Di2 kit. It's technically for sale, but the owner claims it as their personal property at this point. 

Otherwise, i think were hearing July for most of the components as well.


----------



## gofast2wheeler

How much is he asking for bike?


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## Migen21

There is no hang tag on that bike. It's the top of the line 2018 SLR-01 in red/gray (gorgeous too!), and full Dura Ace 9170 Di2. I believe MSRP is $12k. That shop is in a part of town where there are plenty of customers willing to pay that kind of money for a bike. It'll be interesting to see if they are willing to sell it to the first person willing to pay full price.


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

I can give you the weight of my RM01, Di2 ultegra, which ist 7,9 kg in 56cm size. weight ist measured with older Dura ace pedals. maybe this will help a bit ;-)


----------



## garaventa

So it seems that we all have to wait until mid of July at least.

But that´s not so big problem for me; I have something to ride on:






The frameset and the other components like wheels, bar, saddle and pedals are already in house.

I will keep you informed


----------



## Rasto

So the r9170 finally starts to appear on some eshops in germany. I already ordered shifters on ebay.


----------



## Migen21

not a roadmachine, but the new teammachine, fully outfitted with 9170 in a local shop.










It's a 51cm, and right now, it might as well be made of unobtanium. There is a hang tag on it, but the store manager just chuckles when I ask if it's for sale. "Nope, that one's MINE!". 

I asked about the availability of 9170 components (via their distributor), and got a chuckle. There might be a few odds and ends available, but i don't think you'll be able to get a full component set before early fall (just a guess).


----------



## garaventa

I visited my local BMC dealer yesterday and he showed me the 9170 shifters and discs for a first touching.

My orderd groupset DA 9170 will be delivered next week, but the Dura Ace power crank-set is still delayed. He expect it in second week of July.

So I have to wait i little bit longer but I will handle it with a feeling of happiness .

Time to wait is running out.


----------



## ribbij

700 miles on my RM01 and zero regrets.









Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## Rasto

So, fially I upgraded my RM to the new electric simano DA. I already did a test and so far I´m very happy with the new group. Especially the shifters are big leap forward in terms of ergonomics, feel and of course design (compared to the stock rs685 shifters). It met all my high expectations  And almost half kg weight reduction compared to mechanical ultegra is another great benefit.


----------



## Hansy

Building RM01 with eTap HRD, but don't have the frame yet.
Wondering if the hoses can be routed through (not under) the stem with the Pro Vibe bars? There is an opening for the cables to exit the the bars (watch the video on the Pro website) inside the bar clamping area, aligned with the hollow section of the stem. Assuming the stem is closed above the top tube? 

https://www.pro-bikegear.com/global/en-gb/road/handlebars/PRO_HA_VIBECARBON


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## Migen21

I don't think you can route them inside.

Even if you could get them inside the front of the stem from the bars, you still have to get back out of the stem along the flat sides of the steerer tube. There is a bit of a gap along each side there, but that gap is taken up by spacers that are necessary to safely clamp the stem to the steerer.

Here is a link to the instruction manual that shows how it all goes together.

http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/file...2016-06-09_Roadmachine_Assembly_Manual_EN.pdf


----------



## ritchie75

No it would not work. See the picture of inside of the stem.


----------



## ritchie75

So I finished building my RM with SRAM eTap, the bike looks great, though I am a bit disappointed about the weight, my 58 frame came to 8kg (including pedals and bottle cages), I did hope I could get it down to 7.7-7.8 with this setup, but well ... at least it is a looker (to me at least) 

BTW: I did go for a shorter 110mm stem, so I have a brand new unused 120mm for sale if anyone is interested please send me a PM (only in Europe though).


----------



## Hansy

Nice. What wheelset/wheelset weight are you running?


----------



## Migen21

I'm curious about that crankset and chainrings. That thing looks huge!


----------



## ritchie75

I run Enve SES 4.5 AR with Schwalbe One Pro 28mm. I know guys above have had issues putting tires on these hoops, but I had no issues at all. I think the trick here is to use the right tubeless tape . The one that comes from Enve is very thick, I use almost exclusively Schwalbe tape that is much thiner and only one ply will do for road wheels too.

As for the crankset, I used SRAM S900 175mm cranks with Power2Max spider and Rotor 50T Aero Q-rings in Black limited edition.


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## xterrastrial

A bit similar, I just finished my build. Started with RM01 Ultegra mech (58cm) and upgraded to eTap HRD ... and changed everything else. 

According to my LBS, weighs 7.35kg now including PM, pedals, bottle cages and computer mount (integrated mounted from BMC).

If interested, changes were:
- eTap HRD: 52/36, 11-32, 175mm plus Dzero PM
- Enve 5.6's with GP 4000sii 25's & vittoria latex tubes
- S-works Romin Evo saddle
- Enve compact road bars
- Look Keo Blad Ti pedals
- slammed stem with lower headset cone (that was the geo from a previous fit, glad it worked out to look nice too)

Paul


----------



## ribbij

xterrastrial said:


> A bit similar, I just finished my build. Started with RM01 Ultegra mech (58cm) and upgraded to eTap HRD ... and changed everything else.
> 
> According to my LBS, weighs 7.35kg now including PM, pedals, bottle cages and computer mount (integrated mounted from BMC).
> 
> If interested, changes were:
> - eTap HRD: 52/36, 11-32, 175mm plus Dzero PM
> - Enve 5.6's with GP 4000sii 25's & vittoria latex tubes
> - S-works Romin Evo saddle
> - Enve compact road bars
> - Look Keo Blad Ti pedals
> - slammed stem with lower headset cone (that was the geo from a previous fit, glad it worked out to look nice too)
> 
> Paul


Pics!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## xterrastrial

ribbij said:


> Pics!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk














Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hansy

Nice. Very similar to what i am going for. How do the Enve compact bars, hoses and stem work together? Any detail shots of that would be much appreciated


----------



## ribbij

Looks great!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## Buckwheat987

xterrastrial said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sharp


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## ritchie75

Hi Paul,

This is very nice bike indeed 

We are running basically the same set-up. So I am a bit puzzled about the weight difference ... because I can only see 40-50g diff in pedals, 100g in tires, and about 75g in saddle. In contrast your wheels are 20g heavier and I run 50/34 chainrings and shorter stem, and the team black frames should be the lightest of all because it uses the least amount of paint. So all in all your bike should be about 250g lighter than mine. So I wonder where is that extra 500g hidden  Maybe I should have my scales checked...


----------



## xterrastrial

Hey Ritchey. Not sure if my LBS weighed it right either. Another thing to consider is the headset area. I have the shorter headset cone, no spacers and cut the steerer. That shouldn't be 500g I don't think, but it's something.


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## xterrastrial

Hansy - I think they work really well. Can't see the hoses when on the bike, just when you bend down and look under. I'll try to take some pics in the next day or so. Cheers.


----------



## xterrastrial

I forgot to mention, the cassette is the 1170, not 1190 version, so ~60-70g heavier than the full RED cassette. Doesn't help solve the mystery though.


----------



## ritchie75

Hmm, makes it even worse, because I run 1190 cassette


----------



## Mad_Hun

I currently have an RM01 Udi2 on order with a bike shop! Do you guys know if the seatpost can accommodate 7x9mm ovalized rails? I'm looking at my saddle choices and I'm considering trying a Berk Lupina.


----------



## xterrastrial

Mad_Hun said:


> I currently have an RM01 Udi2 on order with a bike shop! Do you guys know if the seatpost can accommodate 7x9mm ovalized rails? I'm looking at my saddle choices and I'm considering trying a Berk Lupina.


My s-works romin evo saddle has the 7 x 9 carbon rails and works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mad_Hun

xterrastrial said:


> My s-works romin evo saddle has the 7 x 9 carbon rails and works great.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you! Very helpful.


----------



## garaventa

So,

yesterday, the bike was finished and now I would like to share some first pictures with you:

Frame-Size 54cm


----------



## ribbij

garaventa said:


> So,
> 
> yesterday, the bike was finished and now I would like to share some first pictures with you:
> 
> Frame-Size 54cm


She's a beut! 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## Rashadabd

I saw one in person for the first time when returning to my car after a ride Saturday. It was the white, red, and blue version. They are very nice looking bikes IMO.


----------



## xterrastrial

xterrastrial said:


> Hansy - I think they work really well. Can't see the hoses when on the bike, just when you bend down and look under. I'll try to take some pics in the next day or so. Cheers.


Hansy- here are a few pics. Sorry for the delay.


























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hansy

Thanks xte, great, now my Mechanic has no excuses


----------



## xterrastrial

Anyone with an RM01 (with the integrated stem) have handlebar creaking issues? I've torqued it to 5Nm (the spec on the stem and on my Enve road bars). I've used carbon paste. The LBS's first try only fixed it for 3 rides and then it returned.

Not sure if it matters, but I first noticed it after I installed the base part of the integrated Garmin mount. Before I had the blank cap in the stem face plate hole and didn't have creaking.

Going back into the LBS this week to try to solve it, but would appreciate any advice or experience with this.

Thx!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Migen21

I have the RM01 proprietary stem with Enve bars and have not had any creaks. At least not at the Stem/Bars. I use Finish Line Fiber Grip.

I did have a serious creak start up earlier in the summer that turned out to be the rear thru-axle bolt creaking against the frame. A thin layer of grease resolved that.


----------



## xterrastrial

Migen21 said:


> I have the RM01 proprietary stem with Enve bars and have not had any creaks. At least not at the Stem/Bars. I use Finish Line Fiber Grip.
> 
> I did have a serious creak start up earlier in the summer that turned out to be the rear thru-axle bolt creaking against the frame. A thin layer of grease resolved that.


Thx for that. Gives me confidence/hope. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Surreyhills

Great to find a thread with so much detail on the BMC RM - been looking for ages. Thought i'd share my ride and mods - I've got the RM01 mechanical Ultegra, White/Blue/Red in 58 frame size -it came in weighing a hefty 8.52kg. I'm now at 7.9kg on the nose, including pedals, 2 x bottle holders and GPS mount -it feels like a whole different beast and I LOVE it. 

Wheels: Hunt30 Carbon Aero (1338g) + Schwalbe Pro 1s, tubeless
Saddle: Pro Falcon Carbon (163g)
Pedals: Xpedo Thrust 8 Ti (170g pair) 
Bars: 3T Ergonova Stealth (198g)
Groupset: Stock Ultegra, but with Stages G2 left arm power meter


----------



## Surreyhills

Did everyone else's BMC RM come with a bright yellow Carbon warning sticker on the top tube? I've tried trying to peel it off, but it just cracks tiny sections off at a time. I'm paranoid about using acetone in case it damages the frame /paint. Any advice or experience welcome... Cheers


----------



## Migen21

Mine peeled right off - it was a few months ago, so I don't recall exactly how I cleaned it up, but it was uneventful.

You might try lightly heating up the sticker to soften the adhesive.


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

I own the RM01 Di2 Ultegra and have 2 questions:
1.) does anybody know the brand/manufacturer of the bar-tape? I Need to replace my orange tape ....
2.) does anybody have durability Trouble with the stock "3T discus Team stealth wheels"? My rearwheel suffered a broken spoke after 2200km and 3 month of use, am at 82kg weight. Now I am waiting for a warranty replacement for 7!!! weeks now. Seems 3T is not the most customer friendly brand... shutdown their facility in August for summer Holiday. 
Thanks !!!


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## MMsRepBike

Hate to say it but the bar tape is almost certainly from 3T as well. BMC has been using 3T tape as OEM for ages now. Maybe for all of the time. Good luck getting anything out of that company.

Lots of nice orange bar tapes out there on the market.


----------



## ceugene

It could also be fi'zi:k tape. BMC frame modules ship with their saddles and 3T Ergonova bars. If it's either, it's an OEM-only product as the pattern doesn't match any of the retail options.


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## cannondaleCAD3

If it is 3T bar tape,I will not buy in any way... ;-).... There is no Feedback from them in 8 weeks. So the wheelset is the most expensive Piece of high-tech-crap I ever saw... honestly any product can be subject to a failure, but the Thing is how you deal with this.... I got a replacement rearwheel from my LBS, which keeps me riding my RM01... anyway - 8 weeks for the warranty replacement of one broken spoke is far too Long.


----------



## chujk1985

Hey all! I am interested in a road machine and wanted to get everyone's thoughts. I am working with my LBS who has an extra RM02 frame that they stripped for another customers build. The frame is brand new, they just did a long time client a favor so that he could get an RM01 frame with Di2.

With that being said, they in turn are able to build up the RM02 frame utilizing all stock BMC parts and full ultegra for nearly a 40% discount. Its a great deal, and the LBS is very reputable. 

The only issue is the frame is the bright yellow frame....I like it, but wanted to get the general thoughts on the frame color.


----------



## ribbij

chujk1985 said:


> Hey all! I am interested in a road machine and wanted to get everyone's thoughts. I am working with my LBS who has an extra RM02 frame that they stripped for another customers build. The frame is brand new, they just did a long time client a favor so that he could get an RM01 frame with Di2.
> 
> With that being said, they in turn are able to build up the RM02 frame utilizing all stock BMC parts and full ultegra for nearly a 40% discount. Its a great deal, and the LBS is very reputable.
> 
> The only issue is the frame is the bright yellow frame....I like it, but it is it complete craziness?


Do it! Great deal, and I thought the yellow was good different in person. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## chujk1985

ribbij said:


> Do it! Great deal, and I thought the yellow was good different in person.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


It's so tempting!


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## Migen21

Assuming its the right size, and they are going to honor the original warranty, why not?


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## GOTA

40% off? That's a no-brainer. If it was my size I'd jump on that deal


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## cannondaleCAD3

go for this bike before anyone else does it! 40% off is great! If you do not, let me know where to get it ;-). I saw´the yellow at my lbs. Looks good and i think there are not too many bikes on the road in this Color. Don´t Forget to tell me where I can get the bike if you don´t buy it!! ;-)


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## MotorCitySteve

Picked up a '17 58cm RM01 with Ultegra Di2 this week on an end of season deal. Never thought I'd want electronic shifting let alone need it, but after 50 miles, I'm really liking it! Wondered if anyone has installed the Pioneer power meter on their's as I'm concerned with non-drive said chainstay clearance. I have the Wahoo cadence pod there now but it's using the double-sided tape as the silicone mount looked like it was not going to clear.


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## Rasto

I use a stages left crank only powermeter and there is a plenty of room between the crank and frame (not sure about pioneer, though).


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## N8236

Just received my 47cm RM01 (white/blue) Ultegra mech with highest stack. Came from a 2015 Felt AR-5 with Shimano C50 WH-9000 wheels. I am 5'7" with (an unusually short) 28" inseam. After one 17mi ride, the sizing feels good. I'm glad I didn't go with a 51cm as that would have been too big.

After one ride, I can already tell differences. On flats, the RM isn't bad but it's not killer like my AR. On rolling/intermediate climbs, the RM feels great. It keeps rolling as if I'm able to transfer all my power to it and overcomes it with much more ease without going into my small front gear. My AR would typically struggle at the sight of hills. This is super exciting as I enjoy climbing hills and had a 32T on my AR. On intermediate descents, the RM feels nimble and planted. The cornering felt natural and fun. My AR feels artificial and muted in feel. Comfort-wise, I used the same tire specs and saddle and the RM was a bit more compliant. I wish it came with 28s.

With that said, I am seeing a fitter in a couple months and dreading the experience as the ICS won't allow for stem changes. Can someone enlighten me if the spacers (I used all 3) can be reduced during my fit?

Can someone also point me where I can purchase the Garmin/GoPro ICS stem plate? I can't find it anywhere.

Lastly, I really one day upgrade to the new Ultegra R8070 di2. Which pieces would be needed? Is it even compatible? Lol


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## Migen21

Are you using the short or tall stack spacer? 

As far as the spacers, mine came with 3 1cm spacers. I removed two of them and cut the steerer. If you just want to remove a spacer below your stacks spacer, you can loosen the stem and take it out by sliding it to one side and disengaging the locks (they are two piece). Note that if you remove the proprietary spacers below the stem, you will have to either cut the steerer, or put normal round 1cm spacers above the stem (under the stem cap) to compensate. Won't be a pretty sight.

Here is a link to the owners manual (I'm guessing you don't have one?). It shows how the spacers and stack adjustment work).
http://www.bmc-switzerland.com/file...2016-06-09_Roadmachine_Assembly_Manual_EN.pdf

Re: the Garmin/GoPro mount, those should have been in the box with the bike when it was built. If you didn't get them, I would go back to the place you bought it and insist they provide them. If you purchased second hand, ask the original owner. Otherwise you can have a BMC dealer try to order them for you (good luck) or find a 3D printed version on Shapeways (I got a Wahoo mount for mine there). 


I think you are going to need pretty much everything in the groupset to upgrade to the 8070. You might be able to get away with keeping your current crankset, but it's my understanding that there are some minor changes to the chainline on the newer 8000 series cranks that may affect your front shifting.


Your observations are interesting to me. I was coming off of a decidedly not-aero BMC Gran Fondo, and found the RoadMachine much faster in the flats (partly due to the aero wheels and slightly more aggressivel riding position. I don't climb much if I can help it, but being a super clyde (6' 5" 220lbs) I appreciate the stiffness of the bottom end of that bike. It's the first bike I've ridden that I can absolutely hammer up a hill and not notice any flex in the bottom end (my Gran Fondo GF-01 also had a nicely stiff chassis). I do also share your positive thoughts on the compliance. I'm sure it's much better than most aero bikes, and nearly as comfortable as my trusty old GF-01.


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## N8236

The shop installed all three 1cm spacers with the high stack (or as the manual calls it, headset top cap). So, it's at the highest possible position. Even higher than its GF. I like it. Is it supposed to also come with the low stack top cap? If so, that means I'm missing that and the garmin mount...geez.

I have all the manuals in 5 million languages and a ton of garbage reflectors and head/tail lights straight out of 1995.

My bike fit is going to suck if I can't adjust the stem length and stack height.

I'm 160 lb and have experimenting with the psi. I had it at 91 not too long ago and dropped it to 87, which in reality is really closer to 84-85. It's not bad when going over manholes. Better than my AR. I go over the same ones weekly, so I'm familiar with the feel.

To be fair to my AR, the carbon isn't the premium type the RM01 uses. So maybe that has something to do with the power transfer.


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## Migen21

BMC sells different length ICS stems. Talk to your shop. Be warned though, they are not cheap. My local shop has all of the variations in stock.

Most shops will sell the bike with the stem at the highest possible position to avoid cutting the steerer (or at least leave it as long as possible). 

Yes, the bike should have come with two different top caps, three spacers and your garmin/go pro stem mount. I believe there were also some additional frame widgets. I would talk to the shop about this. You paid a lot of money for that bike. They should have provided those things.

If you plan on doing the front end adjustments yourself, be warned, taking the ICS apart and putting it back together is daunting. Especially if you have to pull the fork. Pay close attention to how the cables are routed through the head tube (which side of the fork the cables run on). 

I already knew my fit numbers, and built my own bike, so I was able to size mine and cut the steerer before I ran the brake hoses. Since yours is already assembled, if you end up needing to cut you steerer, you will need to pull the front brake hose to completely remove the fork. If you lower (or raise) the bars substantially, you may end up having to shorter (or replace with longer) brake hoses too. It's a big job, and not for the mechanically disinclined.


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## Mad_Hun

So, I was able to pick up a Size 58 RM01 Udi2. I swapped out the oem 3T C35 Discus Carbon wheelset (for sale if anyone is interested) for a Reynolds ATR wheelset, which I'm running tubeless with IRC Formula RBCC 28s. Got my first ride in yesterday, and I thought it rode great. The only aspect that's taking some time to adjust to is the compact crankset - I'm coming from a standard double, and the 16t jump on the shift into the smaller ring is a little jarring. Of course, that has nothing to do with the frameset, which is a gem.


----------



## Migen21

Mad_Hun said:


> So, I was able to pick up a Size 58 RM01 Udi2. I swapped out the oem 3T C35 Discus Carbon wheelset (for sale if anyone is interested) for a Reynolds ATR wheelset, which I'm running tubeless with IRC Formula RBCC 28s. Got my first ride in yesterday, and I thought it rode great. The only aspect that's taking some time to adjust to is the compact crankset - I'm coming from a standard double, and the 16t jump on the shift into the smaller ring is a little jarring. Of course, that has nothing to do with the frameset, which is a gem.


Since you are running Di2, give the semi-syncro shift setting a try. It takes a little getting used to, but it takes some of the shock out of that big jump between rings (by compensating with one or two cog rear shifts). 

I've been using it in standard two cog mode for about a month now, and I really like it.


----------



## Mad_Hun

Migen21 said:


> Since you are running Di2, give the semi-syncro shift setting a try. It takes a little getting used to, but it takes some of the shock out of that big jump between rings (by compensating with one or two cog rear shifts).
> 
> I've been using it in standard two cog mode for about a month now, and I really like it.


Yes, that's a good thought. I'll give it a try.


----------



## N8236

Mad_Hun said:


> So, I was able to pick up a Size 58 RM01 Udi2. I swapped out the oem 3T C35 Discus Carbon wheelset (for sale if anyone is interested) for a Reynolds ATR wheelset, which I'm running tubeless with IRC Formula RBCC 28s. Got my first ride in yesterday, and I thought it rode great. The only aspect that's taking some time to adjust to is the compact crankset - I'm coming from a standard double, and the 16t jump on the shift into the smaller ring is a little jarring. Of course, that has nothing to do with the frameset, which is a gem.


She's a beaut  I'm interested in your 3T C35s. Are they better than the DT Swiss 32 Spline that came with my RM01 Ultegra?


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## Mad_Hun

N8236 said:


> She's a beaut  I'm interested in your 3T C35s. Are they better than the DT Swiss 32 Spline that came with my RM01 Ultegra?


Thanks! I'm loving it. Sent you a PM about the wheels.


----------



## N8236

So it appears my RM delivery is missing stuff. Can you guys chime in on what came w/ your bike?

*I have the following:*
- Documentation
- Bike (most if not all parts)
- A ton of reflectors
- Front and rear taillights
- Bell
- A few value stem pieces etc

*Missing*
- low stack headset top cap (high one being used)
- garmin stem plate

Is there anything else I'm missing? The shop that assembled couldn't find my missing parts.


Thanks.


----------



## N8236

So weird. Thought I posted something.

Anywho. What did your RM delivery come with? The shop that built my bike says they didn't see the lower stack headset top cap or the garmin mount.

Besides the bike, I got boatloads of manuals, reflectors and generic head and tail lights.

I want to make sure when I request missing parts that I get it all.


----------



## Migen21

I bought a frameset, and not a built bike, so mine may have come with different stuff.

I received both high and low stack caps and some small frame plug parts to accommodate internal vs external cabling and mechanical vs Di2. 

I also got the lights and reflectors. 

It's been a while, so I don't recall how they were all packaged. 

Mine didn't come with the Garmin mount and stem plate covers. I asked about them at the shop and was told some of the very early shipments didn't have them. The shop just handed me a small bag that had those parts in it.


----------



## xterrastrial

I had to buy the lower headset cone, stem faceplate cap, and Garmin mount pieces from my LBS. Not cheap either.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## N8236

xterrastrial said:


> I had to buy the lower headset cone, stem faceplate cap, and Garmin mount pieces from my LBS. Not cheap either.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Do you recall how much it was?


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

@N8236: my RM01 Di2 did also miss the garmin Mount and the lower stack cap. I had to purchase the Garmin Mount here in Germany. Also the conversion kit from di2 to mechanical shifting was not included. I asked my lbs for it. They told me that everything of These items can be purchased seperately. the garmin Mount was 18,- EUR here in Germany. I do not understand the policy of BMC. It is unclear what a seatpost/stem/ and all the other spareparts will cost.... no Information. Only way is to go to your local dealer! If anyone from Germany is interested in an 3T discus Team stealth wheelset, please let me know. I will sell mine with about 3.000 km on it.


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## Mad_Hun

N8236 said:


> Do you recall how much it was?


I too had to purchase the lower headset cone - it was $50. I was not provided with the garmin mount either, but I haven't purchased it.


----------



## xterrastrial

Mad_Hun said:


> I too had to purchase the lower headset cone - it was $50. I was not provided with the garmin mount either, but I haven't purchased it.


Lower cone was CA$80 (canadian). Forget the mount cost ... I think CA$50.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## N8236

xterrastrial said:


> Lower cone was CA$80 (canadian). Forget the mount cost ... I think CA$50.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Bingo. My BMC retailer quoted me 50 for the mount. Didn't ask about the low stack since I could just reduce one of my three spacers.

As someone reiterated, earlier shipments didn't come with them pre-packaged. I didn't pay near full price for my bike, so I will shut myself up and cough the 50 for it.

But as a business principle, I think it's poor practice to not have those included given how much of a premium bike this is. It's like purchasing a 80k car and having to beg for carpets. BMC, if you're listening, hire a new customer relations director.


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## cannondaleCAD3

I also think that it is very poor performance from BMC to have different packages for their bikes. Maybe it depends on the
country where you buy it, but I do not think so, as the packages are assembled in Taiwan I guess.
I asked my dealer before ordering the bike and he confirmed that
-headset cone
-mechanical conversion kit 
are included with the bike.
Getting the bike, it was not included. If I need the parts, “I can certainly buy those” was the reply of my LBS guys.
The Garmin Mount was not available that time!
So I would have expected BMC to send it “free of charge”  if you bought one of those bikes… They have a bike priced 6999,- EUR and
want me to pay 18 EUR for a Garmin Mount?? Well, I paid for it, I thought it was a little bit funny…

One more thing: I did calculate every single part of my RM01 Di2 and found out, that the total price
will be lower than the complete bike from BMC. That was the time when I realized that the prices were calculated by
throwing the dice J. If you intend to buy one, keep negotiating hard! 

In the end I can say that in case of quality issues of their sub-suppliers, there is NO support, not even an e-mail from
BMC side, which cares about the customer. I contacted BMC Swizzerland directly, I contacted their sub-supplier, I talked to my LBS guys
several times, but BMC left me without any notice of customer care for 10 weeks now. This is not what I would expect from a high-tech, high-price
company like BMC. They are spending so much money on their product presentations. Why do they not spend a little on
customer care? My opinion: they have a great product, but also a great lack of customer care!!! Missing the customer
service of BMC the bikes are priced far too high! In my opinion they should focus on the people who pay their jobs!


----------



## chujk1985

Wanting some honest opinions here. I ended up going with the build (from the previous post) with the yellow frame as the price was right. With that being said, when the shop was building the bike up, they noticed a small crack.

Now my options are the 2017 black with white/silver frame or the 2018 ultegra di2 frame that is orange and green.

I know this is a very personal decision, but just wanted the opinion of others who either own or are in the market for a roadmachine, and see what you guys think. I havent been able to see find any "real-life" photos of the new 2018 orange frame.

FYI - I am getting rid of a black bike and wanted to get a little more color, but not so sure with the green accents of the proposed new frame.

Thanks for taking the time on this dumb request for opinions. Just thought I would get some other's opinions as this is a pretty sizeable purchase


----------



## Migen21

I'm a conservative old fuddy duddy, so take my opinion FWIW. 

I like the overall color of the orange bike, but the green accents - ugh.. no...

I'd take that black one over the orange/green any day.


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## N8236

Not feeling the orange and green.


----------



## chujk1985

Migen21 said:


> I'm a conservative old fuddy duddy, so take my opinion FWIW.
> 
> I like the overall color of the orange bike, but the green accents - ugh.. no...
> 
> I'd take that black one over the orange/green any day.


Yah its a tough choice...I like the orange...but the green...BLEH

Is it generally easier to resell a black or neutral colored bike?


----------



## 9W9W

I've noticed a return to retro colorways in extreme/individual sports related items. Snowboards and snowboarding clothing seemed to adopt the crazier and more reminiscent of the neon-80's the better. I also see some strange colors on recent ski designs. Pastels, neons....it's all in there. People are now rocking one-piece suits again. I was never a fan of a black bike with say neon yellow highlights, or anything yellow for that matter as I thought it was trying to hard to tie itself in with the yellow jersey (and I have a gut). That said, the whole ugly neon thing is on bikes now too. Worry not about the shade of the green, embrace the puke and watch kids point at the new cool guy on the block.

What I'm getting at is that it doesn't need to be a nice shade of green, it's revolting by design. If you can embrace that design language go for it. 

I ride a black SLR01. 2014 model, the all black one with white lettering. I appreciate its conservative colorway but do like that the letters and "frames" design stands out. However, this black/grey is just meh.

I am lusting after a Willier now. Check out their recent contrasting frame designs.... https://www.wilier.com/en/products/int/road/cento10ndr

BB drop on this thing looks huge, but I think it's an optical illusion on the part of the chain stay shaping.


----------



## Migen21

9W9W said:


> BB drop on this thing looks huge, but I think it's an optical illusion on the part of the chain stay shaping.


I didn't check the geometry, but I think what your seeing is an illusion caused by the weird chainstay design. It actually starts below the BB, and ends above the dropouts. I'm not sure what they are going for with that design. It looks... unusual.


----------



## vic bastige

Love the orange and green! Sick of tired black frames with color accents...and I have one! The color reminds me of a DeRosa King that they put out a few years ago. Saw one in person and it was spectacular.

YMMV


----------



## AtomicRacer

I found a good offer for the Roadmachine 01 Ultra Di2. But I don't know which frame fits best to me: 56 or 58.
My total height is 181 cm und my inseam is 90 cm. Thus I have very long legs. My trunk is 61 cm and my arm is 65 cm.
Does someone have experience with long legs and the BMC Roadmachine frame geometry?
I concern about the saddle to bar drop with the 56 frame.


----------



## Lucca

For those that have a 51cm frame could I ask how tall you are please.
I am 165cm with an inseam of 76cm. I think I need a 51cm frame.
A bike shop is telling me a 54cm could work. They are not telling me a 51cm would not work but a 54cm is all they have in stock. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but just wanted to see what other people in my aprox. size are riding.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Rasto

AtomicRacer said:


> I found a good offer for the Roadmachine 01 Ultra Di2. But I don't know which frame fits best to me: 56 or 58.
> My total height is 181 cm und my inseam is 90 cm. Thus I have very long legs. My trunk is 61 cm and my arm is 65 cm.
> Does someone have experience with long legs and the BMC Roadmachine frame geometry?
> I concern about the saddle to bar drop with the 56 frame.


Hi AtomicRacer, my height is 183 inseam 89, trunk 64.5 and arm 63 cm. I think my 56 cm frame is just right for me. Btw I use low stack top cone and no spacers.


----------



## N8236

Lucca said:


> For those that have a 51cm frame could I ask how tall you are please.
> I am 165cm with an inseam of 76cm. I think I need a 51cm frame.
> A bike shop is telling me a 54cm could work. They are not telling me a 51cm would not work but a 54cm is all they have in stock. I don't know if that has anything to do with it but just wanted to see what other people in my aprox. size are riding.
> Thanks in advance.


My datapoints for your reference.

I'm 5'6" tall with an unusually short inseam of 28" and ride a 47cm RM. Coming from Felt AR5 51cm, the RM is perfect for me. I did research and was told that BMCs run large. A good friend who is 5'8" was measured for a 51cm. He usually rides a 53cm. He has regular proportions.

Hope this helps.


----------



## N8236

Am I the only puzzled about how complicated switching saddles on an RM is. Even worse, tweaking the angle...tighten or loosen one end and it jacks it all up. Pro tips?


----------



## Migen21

Yep, if you tighten or loosen either of the bolts, it will affect the tilt.

I have an app called 'Bubble Level' on my phone that I place on the seat with I'm tightening it. I know exactly what angle I use on all of my bikes, so if I'm messing with the seat bolts, once I'm ready to tighten it down, I put the bike on level ground, but the phone with the level app on a fixed spot (across the main part of the seat), and then alternate tightening the two blots until they are at the correct torque and the angle is where I want it.


----------



## chujk1985

Weird question - does anyone know if the rm01's integrated stem can be retrofitted onto an rm02?


----------



## ritchie75

Well, take this with a grain of salt, but I believe it can, my RM01 frameset has the cable guide for externally routed rear brake hose. So I think they use the same mold to make both RM01 and RM02 frames. Having said this, it would be an expensive thing to do, you would need to get RM01 fork, stem cone and stem itself...


----------



## Olson

Hi all,

I have an RM-01 with Di2 on order. Should be here later this week. 

The one part of the build that kind of drives me nuts is that the Di2 junction box is still under the stem. Shimano offers a bar-end junction box which I suppose I could retrofit but what I really want to do is relocate it to the down tube like where it is on the new teammachine. Do you think the same part would fit on the RM-01 frame? Any idea where I could order it? thx!


----------



## Tantrix

1. I am hesitating between BMC Teammachine SLR TWO 2018 rim brakes and BMC Roadmachine 2017 disc brakes. I have read, that RD disc brakes make noise often. Your experience ?
2. Frame Size : For both model geometry is quit similar. I am 5`9 ( 175 cm ) inseam 31-32 ( 80 cm ) . Bike I ride now is 53,5 cm top tube. Somebody told me, that BMC run large. So wich size is for me 54 or 51 ?


----------



## Lucca

Olson said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have an RM-01 with Di2 on order. Should be here later this week.
> 
> The one part of the build that kind of drives me nuts is that the Di2 junction box is still under the stem. Shimano offers a bar-end junction box which I suppose I could retrofit but what I really want to do is relocate it to the down tube like where it is on the new teammachine. Do you think the same part would fit on the RM-01 frame? Any idea where I could order it? thx!


Could I ask what bike shop you are getting it from. I am being told no Roadmachines until November?
Thanks.


----------



## Olson

Lucca said:


> Could I ask what bike shop you are getting it from. I am being told no Roadmachines until November?
> Thanks.


R&A. I have been waiting for a LONG time.

-N


----------



## Lucca

Olson said:


> R&A. I have been waiting for a LONG time.
> 
> -N


Thanks. Sent you a message.


----------



## N8236

I am receiving a considerate discount on the sram etap system and I was wondering if it would work with my RM01 ultegra mechanical. I'm not concerned about chainring compatibility but the disc brakes. Thanks for any info.


----------



## Migen21

chujk1985 said:


> Weird question - does anyone know if the rm01's integrated stem can be retrofitted onto an rm02?


I don't know the answer specifically, but there is quite a lot to this. The fork steerer on the RM-01 is not a traditional round steerer. It has flat sides to accomodate routing the cables inside the head tube. If the fork that comes with the RM-02 does not have this, it won't work.


----------



## Migen21

Tantrix said:


> 1. I am hesitating between BMC Teammachine SLR TWO 2018 rim brakes and BMC Roadmachine 2017 disc brakes. I have read, that RD disc brakes make noise often. Your experience ?
> 2. Frame Size : For both model geometry is quit similar. I am 5`9 ( 175 cm ) inseam 31-32 ( 80 cm ) . Bike I ride now is 53,5 cm top tube. Somebody told me, that BMC run large. So wich size is for me 54 or 51 ?


I guess it depends on what you mean by 'noise'. 

If you mean the sound of the pads rubbing on the rotor, that isn't a problem on properly set up hydraulic brakes. Mine work beautifully with the rotor properly centered. 

If you mean squealing or shrieking sounds, this is usually caused by contamination on the pads/rotor. If your pads get contaminated they will need to be replaced. 

I've heard of some people complaining that their hydraulic discs squeak when they are wet. I've only done a few rain rides on mine, and mine did not make a peep.


----------



## xterrastrial

N8236 said:


> I am receiving a considerate discount on the sram etap system and I was wondering if it would work with my RM01 ultegra mechanical. I'm not concerned about chainring compatibility but the disc brakes. Thanks for any info.


I got an RM01 ultegra Mechanical and upgraded it to eTap HRD just fine. Had to buy a couple pieces to cover up the ports for the cables. Super clean


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rasto

Migen21 said:


> I guess it depends on what you mean by 'noise'.
> 
> If you mean the sound of the pads rubbing on the rotor, that isn't a problem on properly set up hydraulic brakes. Mine work beautifully with the rotor properly centered.
> 
> If you mean squealing or shrieking sounds, this is usually caused by contamination on the pads/rotor. If your pads get contaminated they will need to be replaced.
> 
> I've heard of some people complaining that their hydraulic discs squeak when they are wet. I've only done a few rain rides on mine, and mine did not make a peep.


Agree. Bent rotor may cause the sound of the pads rubbing on the rotor as well. I have this problem with my front shimano sm-rt81 160mm rotor (the rear 140mm disc is perfectly straight). I tried to right it using my hand. It helped for a while but after some heavy braking it is bent again... So probably just bad rotor quality I guess.

In addition, I already experienced very loud squealing noise from both brakes on my RM01 due to overheating. It happened repeatedly on a very steep and long downhill in Alps (11km with a constantant gradient of 13%).


----------



## chujk1985

Does anyone use any type of clear chainstay protector ?


----------



## N8236

After riding my RM01 for a couple of weeks, I noticed a noise coming from (what I think is) the BB area. The sound isn't mechanical, but it's a extremely rapid rubbing noise of some kind. Wish I could describe it better. It's only heard when pedaling and it isn't loud, but obvious in quiet conditions. Has anyone had this issue? I'm having the mechanic attempt to replicate the issue. If he can't, I plan to re-seat or reassemble the BB.


----------



## MMsRepBike

chujk1985 said:


> Does anyone use any type of clear chainstay protector ?


Yes.

I use ISC Racer's Tape Surface Protection Tape. Otherwise known as helicopter tape.

I remove the crank and anything on the chainstay and run a length of it all the way from the bottom bracket back to the dropout.

First I use blue painter's tape to make a template so I can cut it perfectly around the bottom bracket and wrap it correctly around the stay and cut it right near the drop out.

Every bike I have is done like this, it's basically invisible once done and offers complete protection of the entire stay, something many people could use. Great for clean up too.


----------



## chujk1985

Thanks! Im assuming this stuff would change a matte frame somewhat glossy? Do they have a clear matte tape?'



MMsRepBike said:


> Yes.
> 
> I use ISC Racer's Tape Surface Protection Tape. Otherwise known as helicopter tape.
> 
> I remove the crank and anything on the chainstay and run a length of it all the way from the bottom bracket back to the dropout.
> 
> First I use blue painter's tape to make a template so I can cut it perfectly around the bottom bracket and wrap it correctly around the stay and cut it right near the drop out.
> 
> Every bike I have is done like this, it's basically invisible once done and offers complete protection of the entire stay, something many people could use. Great for clean up too.


----------



## MMsRepBike

chujk1985 said:


> Thanks! Im assuming this stuff would change a matte frame somewhat glossy? Do they have a clear matte tape?'


Correct. That side chain stay will end up looking glossy.

No matte versions that I'm aware of that are top quality. I just deal with it.


----------



## Bett

Question to the guys with a 58 roadmachine

I'm looking at building a roadmachine with etap. However this review has given me some doubts.

Review: BMC Roadmachine 01 One | GRAN FONDO Cycling Magazine

Is the bmc really prone to a speed wobble ? How stable does it feel on a high speed decent ?


----------



## N8236

Bett said:


> Question to the guys with a 58 roadmachine
> 
> I'm looking at building a roadmachine with etap. However this review has given me some doubts.
> 
> Review: BMC Roadmachine 01 One | GRAN FONDO Cycling Magazine
> 
> Is the bmc really prone to a speed wobble ? How stable does it feel on a high speed decent ?


I ride the 2017 RM01 and go on 3-4 mi descents every week and haven’t noticed any kind of wobbling. I go up to 35 mph. The descent has plenty straightaways and hairpins. king’s Mt rd.


----------



## xterrastrial

N8236 said:


> I ride the 2017 RM01 and go on 3-4 mi descents every week and haven’t noticed any kind of wobbling. I go up to 35 mph. The descent has plenty straightaways and hairpins. king’s Mt rd.


I have a RM01 58cm with eTap HRD (was originally Ultegra mech). I ride with both the stock DT Swiss low end wheels and Enve 5.6. I've taken both up to mid-60km/h and mid-70km/h on long descents (north shore mountains in Vancouver). No speed wobbles.

I've previously had speed wobbles a couple times on my old Felt AR2 with Zipp 303's. From what I know and have heard, speed wobbles are incredibly specific to the full set-up, including rider position, speed, how the front end and seat are set up, that result in the scary-as-hell wobble.

All I can say is that I haven't had any issues so far.


----------



## Olson

I got my RM-01 58 two weeks ago and only have a couple hundred miles on it. It has 9100 Di2 groupset so not Etap, but I have had it up above 30 mph on several occasions and haven't detected any wobble. Rides very stable no handed as well.


----------



## Migen21

Bett said:


> Question to the guys with a 58 roadmachine
> 
> I'm looking at building a roadmachine with etap. However this review has given me some doubts.
> 
> Review: BMC Roadmachine 01 One | GRAN FONDO Cycling Magazine
> 
> Is the bmc really prone to a speed wobble ? How stable does it feel on a high speed decent ?


I'm a big guy (top heavy), ride a 61cm RM-01. It has 2500 miles or more in it. I like my fast descents and have never noticed anything resembling a speed wobble. In fact, if anything, the thing is rock solid on fast descents. It tracks really well.


----------



## N8236

xterrastrial said:


> I have a RM01 58cm with eTap HRD (was originally Ultegra mech). I ride with both the stock DT Swiss low end wheels and Enve 5.6. I've taken both up to mid-60km/h and mid-70km/h on long descents (north shore mountains in Vancouver). No speed wobbles.
> 
> I've previously had speed wobbles a couple times on my old Felt AR2 with Zipp 303's. From what I know and have heard, speed wobbles are incredibly specific to the full set-up, including rider position, speed, how the front end and seat are set up, that result in the scary-as-hell wobble.
> 
> All I can say is that I haven't had any issues so far.


I came from a Felt AR5 and while that didn't wobble, it sure didn't feel as planted as my RM. Even after my first descent w/ the RM, I immediately felt more confident. the RM tracks well.

While that review was generally excellent, I felt the author felt it needed a drawback for the sake of it. A wobbling frontend is a bold claim that could have a very impactful consequence for someone considering the bike. The author should have elaborated much more.


----------



## Surreyhills

N8236 said:


> I came from a Felt AR5 and while that didn't wobble, it sure didn't feel as planted as my RM. Even after my first descent w/ the RM, I immediately felt more confident. the RM tracks well.
> 
> While that review was generally excellent, I felt the author felt it needed a drawback for the sake of it. A wobbling frontend is a bold claim that could have a very impactful consequence for someone considering the bike. The author should have elaborated much more.


I've got the RM01 Ultegra mechanical in a 58. I've never felt so secure and stable on descents - almost every other review concurs with this, so that review does appear to be the outlier. TBH i'm not sure i've ever had a speed wobble on any bike, but certainly not the BMC. I've been down quite a few descents nudging 70km/hr (43 mph) and it feels solid.


----------



## Sirvelo

Olson said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have an RM-01 with Di2 on order. Should be here later this week.
> 
> The one part of the build that kind of drives me nuts is that the Di2 junction box is still under the stem. Shimano offers a bar-end junction box which I suppose I could retrofit but what I really want to do is relocate it to the down tube like where it is on the new teammachine. Do you think the same part would fit on the RM-01 frame? Any idea where I could order it? thx!


Did you get any clarity to your question on the junction box? I am in a similar position: Just ordered RM-01 frameset to do my own build and am wondering if I can place the Shimano bar-end junction box in the frame in the hatch for the mechanical cables (like the SLR-01). As far as I cans see, the cover seems similar on the SLR-01 and the RM-01.


----------



## Olson

Sirvelo,

I got my RM-01 and have spent most of the past couple weeks getting the basics set up so haven't made too much progress on the junction box issue.

I did find somewhere that BMC is using the EW-RS910 bar end junction box in the SLR-01 so it's not a completely different junction box. I ordered one from competitive cyclist along with the Di2 bluetooth dongle and it's waiting for me to start mocking up how it would fit.

I need to pop the cover plate off and make sure the hole in the down tube is big enough to fit the junction box. Assuming it fits, from there need to figure out if I should just try to drill a hole in the existing cover plate and glue the junction box in (hack) or try to 3D print a replacement cover plate that will hold the junction box. I hadn't really considered trying to order the SLR-01 cover plate. Not sure how to go about this.

Let me know if you any progress on that front.

-N


----------



## Migen21

I opted for the bar end junction. The only problem is, this limits your choice of handle bars to those with all internal routing and a bar end that's suited for the junction box (not all carbon bars will work).

I'm currently using the new Enve Aero Road bars. I haven't decided yet if I love them (I think I prefer the standard Enve Compact road bar), but they are compatible with the junction box (after you cut the ends of the bars off).


----------



## Sirvelo

I placed the question with Evans Cycles and got this response:

"After You remove black plastic cap, the hole is not big enough to install EW-RS910 junction box in it."










Looking at the attached picture I am inclined to believe it might be a 2016 model RM01. That said, I have no idea if changes have been made that to the "junction box niche". I´d be surprised if BMC hadn't improved the RM01 accordingly. However, I have yet to see any picture of a tucked junction box on the RM01...


----------



## lukiluke1

Is there any difference between 2017 and 2018 roadmachine 01 frameset?


----------



## on6qd

RM02 frame cracks.









My RM02 frame develops cracks. The bike has approx 10000Km (6200 Miles).
Anybody have similar issues?


----------



## Finx

on6qd said:


> RM02 frame cracks.
> 
> View attachment 320832
> 
> 
> My RM02 frame develops cracks. The bike has approx 10000Km (6200 Miles).
> Anybody have similar issues?


Yikes - I have this same frame. I checked and it's fine so far.

Did BMC and your local shop help with the warranty?


----------



## N8236

Did anyone else have a twisted rear derailleur? I don’t know how the shop that assembled my bike together not see it. It created all sorts of ticking noises and weirdness. I also had a threaded bb put in due to what I thought was some noise and a few pop sounds.

Since the changes, the bike has felt smoother and steadier when putting down power. Maybe it’s all in my head. Who knows.

Looking into etap, I was told the disc calipers needed to be swapped as well? Is this a true statement? I have the 2017 RM01 Ultegra mechanical. Tech said “Shimano and Sram use completely different hydraulic fluid. (Mineral Oil vs Dot Fluid). Hydro is quite a bit more specific than mechanical bits.”


----------



## on6qd

The bike is currently at the shop and I'm waiting for BMC's reply. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## xterrastrial

I have yet to be able to fix my bars/stem creaking problem. I got a new ICStem installed (110 instead of 120). Still creaks. I swapped out the Enve bars for 3T Ergonova LTD bars ... still creaks.

Has been in my LBS 3 times, no luck. Just had Velofix have a look (they were at my office today) to see if fresh eyes could solve it. Nope. Always using friction paste and torque wrench.

Has anyone else had creaking from the cockpit area on their RM01? Any advice? I'm worried the stem clamp is just a poor design ... unless I'm the only one. So strange.

Thx in advance!

Paul


----------



## Rasto

Hi, Paul I experienced clicking sound from the cockpit area on my RM01 too. It wasn’t very loud though, and it only happened when riding out of saddle so maybe you have different issue. I solved it by applying a small amount of copper grease on pins that hold the spacers (1 to 4 depending on your setup - I have 1) between the topcone and the stem at place.


----------



## N8236

I'm told by my LBS that RMs that want to upgrade to eTap, the WiFli with disc calipers kit is needed. Mixing eTap shifters with BMC disc calipers won't work due to the oil type used.


----------



## xterrastrial

Rasto said:


> Hi, Paul I experienced clicking sound from the cockpit area on my RM01 too. It wasn’t very loud though, and it only happened when riding out of saddle so maybe you have different issue. I solved it by applying a small amount of copper grease on pins that hold the spacers (1 to 4 depending on your setup - I have 1) between the topcone and the stem at place.


Thx, Rasto. I'm not using any spacers in my setup. BMC just answered a listed of specific questions of which parts in the cockpit assembly need grease, paste or loctite. I wasn't using loctite on the 3 bolts, just grease. Will try with Loctite. If it's not that, I noticed that my LBS cut the steerer tube at an angle, i.e. cut more off at the front end of the steerer than the rear. BMC agreed to investigate that if following the other steps don't solve it.

Crossing my fingers that the 'steps' kill the creak!


----------



## N8236

I also wanted to ask about how folks are adjusting their saddle tilt. This two bolt seatpost design is killing me.

Whenever I have the right tilt and tighten it to spec, it changes the tilt again.

So what I've done is tighten both bolts equally to 7nm and if I need to adjust tilt either direction, I loosen the opposite and tighten the other. It's so overly complicated.


----------



## Migen21

N8236 said:


> I also wanted to ask about how folks are adjusting their saddle tilt. This two bolt seatpost design is killing me.
> 
> Whenever I have the right tilt and tighten it to spec, it changes the tilt again.
> 
> So what I've done is tighten both bolts equally to 7nm and if I need to adjust tilt either direction, I loosen the opposite and tighten the other. It's so overly complicated.


I've used two bolt seatposts before I had my BMC's. I don't love them, but you eventually get used to the annoyance of getting and keeping the tilt correct while you tighten it.

I use a bubble level app on my phone sitting on the seat while I tighten the blots, alternating front to back until it gets to torque spec.

Honestly, I don't think I've had to change mine since I originally set it up, but that's mostly because I have my fit dialed in to pretty tight tolerances.


----------



## Rasto

xterrastrial said:


> Thx, Rasto. I'm not using any spacers in my setup. BMC just answered a listed of specific questions of which parts in the cockpit assembly need grease, paste or loctite. I wasn't using loctite on the 3 bolts, just grease. Will try with Loctite. If it's not that, I noticed that my LBS cut the steerer tube at an angle, i.e. cut more off at the front end of the steerer than the rear. BMC agreed to investigate that if following the other steps don't solve it.
> 
> Crossing my fingers that the 'steps' kill the creak!


Ok, it seems you're using the same setup as me - only the cable guide without 3 spacers. As you can see in the picture below there are two pins (green arrows). I applied a small amount of copper grease on both of them.


----------



## xterrastrial

Rasto said:


> Ok, it seems you're using the same setup as me - only the cable guide without 3 spacers. As you can see in the picture below there are two pins (green arrows). I applied a small amount of copper grease on both of them.
> View attachment 320950


Thx. Will try if current approach doesn't work.

Btw, how is copper grease different from normal grease? I use Pedro's Syn Grease usually because that's what I have at home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Whiplash

*Roadmachine what size I need?*

Hi guys,

I have been following you for about a month and I will need your help / advice. To start, I must tell you that I've been cycling for 8 months, and I have a gravel (Norco Search A 105 Hydro 2017) to whom I changed the tires (4 Season 28mm), because I do only road. I must also tell you I have knees problems, meniscal lesions, to the right knee grade II and to the left knee grade I plus problems with the patellar ligament to both knees. Now I am thinking to changing the bike with a road bike. After a month of research and reviews on the internet I fell in love with the BMC Roadmachine 02 two. I was between BMC and Cervelo (C3 or R3). 
My question, since there is no size guide on their site, what size how do I need, seeing my knees problems, since there are two steps for Stack and Reach?
I have 1.85, I am riding 88cm and the length of the arms is 81cm.

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Migen21

It's really hard to size someone without seeing them on the bike. There are just too many factors that go into it. 

Do you not have a local dealer with bikes in stock you can try for size?


----------



## Whiplash

Migen21 said:


> It's really hard to size someone without seeing them on the bike. There are just too many factors that go into it.
> 
> Do you not have a local dealer with bikes in stock you can try for size?



Hey, and thank you for your replay. I thought giving all the size, height, inseam, and arms length, my knees issues and I can add I'm not so flexible, can help you to give me an answer. Like you can see, I'm a newbie, and I don't look towards for a very racing position, more at an comfortable position. 
And about the dealer, I already was, and he gave me doubts, because first he said I need a 56 and after he changed idee and said you need a 58.
It's true a bigger size give you a position more comfortable than a small one?


----------



## geda777

I am 1.82m and 84cm inseam and I am riding a 58 Roadmachine 01. 
Took my measurements very carefully on CompetitiveCyclist.com and they reccomend frame with top tube 57cm, and the Roadmachine 01 size 58 has top tube 56.8cm, so it was perfect. I feel great on the bike, maybe the stem it is a little bit too long, it is 120mm so I have a more racing position. If I cannot get used to it, I will order the 100mm ICS stem.


----------



## Whiplash

geda777 said:


> I am 1.82m and 84cm inseam and I am riding a 58 Roadmachine 01.
> Took my measurements very carefully on CompetitiveCyclist.com and they reccomend frame with top tube 57cm, and the Roadmachine 01 size 58 has top tube 56.8cm, so it was perfect. I feel great on the bike, maybe the stem it is a little bit too long, it is 120mm so I have a more racing position. If I cannot get used to it, I will order the 100mm ICS stem.


Thank you very much for your replay. I think it's so lovely to ride a 01


----------



## 9W9W

Whiplash said:


> Thank you very much for your replay. I think it's so lovely to ride a 01


Do know that top tube measurements of 56.8 or 57 or 55.8 or whatever means nothing without taking into consideration the seat tube angle and the head tube angle. Together with this information you will get STACK and REACH of a frame which is much better way of sizing bikes and allows one to instantly compare two bicycles and know where the seat and bar will be "in space" given the numbers..or, what willn need to be changed to have them be in the same place in space as ones current bike.

To illustrate, the 2018 SLR01 has top tube of 575mm which is only 7mm longer than the RM01, but the REACH which is only 2mm shorter than the SLR01. Things aren't linear when geometry is involved and therein lies the error in sizing versus top tube only. 

When you understand what STACK and REACH are (the height and distance to the bars from a fixed point) you will see that larger frame means that the bars will be higher and slightly further away. Two frames can be setup to have the same contact points, the only different is that the smaller frame will have more spacers under the bars (or flipped stem) and a longer stem. The larger frame will have less spacers and shorter stem.

The trick is to get a frame which allows your body to contact the bike at exactly those points which are comfortable for the body and yet remain within certain guidelines (to avoid silly setups of upturned 80mm stems and extra setback posts).


----------



## Whiplash

9W9W said:


> Do know that top tube measurements of 56.8 or 57 or 55.8 or whatever means nothing without taking into consideration the seat tube angle and the head tube angle. Together with this information you will get STACK and REACH of a frame which is much better way of sizing bikes and allows one to instantly compare two bicycles and know where the seat and bar will be "in space" given the numbers..or, what willn need to be changed to have them be in the same place in space as ones current bike.
> 
> To illustrate, the 2018 SLR01 has top tube of 575mm which is only 7mm longer than the RM01, but the REACH which is only 2mm shorter than the SLR01. Things aren't linear when geometry is involved and therein lies the error in sizing versus top tube only.
> 
> When you understand what STACK and REACH are (the height and distance to the bars from a fixed point) you will see that larger frame means that the bars will be higher and slightly further away. Two frames can be setup to have the same contact points, the only different is that the smaller frame will have more spacers under the bars (or flipped stem) and a longer stem. The larger frame will have less spacers and shorter stem.
> 
> The trick is to get a frame which allows your body to contact the bike at exactly those points which are comfortable for the body and yet remain within certain guidelines (to avoid silly setups of upturned 80mm stems and extra setback posts).


So, in my case, will fit a 58 Roadmachine? I have 1.85, inseam 88cm, body 65 and the length of the arms is 73 cm.
I ask you all that because seems you understand better the geometry of a bike. And yes, we are newbies for that we come here to ask the experts. Don't tell me I need to go to make a fit or depends to each person, you have the size of the frame and my sizes.


----------



## geda777

you will fit great on a size 58, I have body 66 and arms 72. So my proportions are small inseam but long trunk, your proportions are opposite, long inseam with smaller trunk. I guess we are between sizes so we can ride both 56 and 58 frames, with some minor adjustments (spacers, stem etc)


----------



## Whiplash

geda777 said:


> you will fit great on a size 58, I have body 66 and arms 72. So my proportions are small inseam but long trunk, your proportions are opposite, long inseam with smaller trunk. I guess we are between sizes so we can ride both 56 and 58 frames, with some minor adjustments (spacers, stem etc)


Yes, I know mate, especially because the 01 Roadmachine have dual-stack option. But I bet no-one take a look at the geometry of Roadmachine before giving there opinion.
That annoy me, when people with experience come and replay with such as opinion like 9W9W did. I mean, when you are with much more experience than I am, cut the crap and give help with what I asked for, and stop saying you need to go to get a fit from a PRO, because everyone is different and things like that. I was very clear, I gave my sizes, you have the geometry and sizes on BMC size, all what is need is to have KINDNESS to help peoples. But no, they like to show how smart they are, how good they understand the geometry of a bike and stuff like that.
Guys, it so simple, this is math, works with numbers, it's not astrology to have unknown like will rain, will be sunny, will be a clear sky?
No, all it's need is KINDNESS!

Geda, again thank you very much for your replays!


Best regards.


----------



## 9W9W

Whiplash said:


> But no, they like to show how smart they are, how good they understand the geometry of a bike and stuff like that.
> Guys, it so simple, this is math, works with numbers, it's not astrology to have unknown like will rain, will be sunny, will be a clear sky?


Yeah, look I understand your enthusiasm and it's cute and all, even your somewhat ignorant response, but take it from a guy who used to be just like you asking "will I fit x frame?". It's not that easy. I can put my hands/palms under my feet when standing up and bending over, can you do that? If the answer if no, then the position of your body on the bike will be completely different than someone like me (and you will not be able to strech as much forward to reach the bar while remaining in a comfortable sitting position). When Geda says he feels fine on a X sized frame, and you're going by that... then you are making the assumption that you are just as fit as Geda, that your pelvis and back muscle can strech as far and as much as as Geda's. What works for Geda, may not work for you. If you are less flexible and your stem is 10mm too long, your pelvis will tilt forward to compensate, or you will scoot forward on the saddle and you will NOT be comfortable over the course of a longer ride and walk away with a sore lower back or ass. 

I thought I was riding a "correctly" sized and fitted frame for two years. As a new rider I wanted "the look" I thought suffering and pain was a part of the sport. I set up my bike based on how I thought it should be set up based on internet advice and looking at pictures. For two years I did this! Then I got fit and now it's a world of a difference. 

Consider how stupid it is to size a bike based on the mm's of toptube in light of a) geometry I just talked about and b) the fact that handlebar "lengths" (the distance from the bar to where the brake hood is) can vary by 10mm or more between models... so you are worried about a 7mm difference in top tube size, but completely ignore the fact that the handlebar on this particular model can be as much as 10-15mm longer or shorter than another handlebar model on an older BMC. It's not about math or frame length and it's not rain/shine but rather, it's more about how flexible your body is. 

Look, you're spending $3,000 on a BMC, yes? What is another $300? You want a big boy world-class bicycle for more money than most people make in one month... what is your aversion to another $300 and a fit? Judging by your response I think it's not the money that is the issue but rather the fact that you think you know better. Well, you don't. 

You will buy this BMC, you will set it up based on some stuff you read on the internet, you will not be comfortable and you grow to hate riding it. You will ride less and less as riding will become a painful chore (sore ass, numb wrists) and you will leave the sport, or finally get a fit. 

Enjoy the bike and good luck! njoy the bike.


----------



## Rashadabd

I don't want to jump into the breach, but I have to say I also think a fit session is a really good idea. I recently learned that I have been on the wrong size bikes for years as well. I have been riding 51/52/small bikes when I am actually a XS/49/50. I am close, but having made the switch, the smaller bike is definitely better comfort wise. All it took was one session of going through a Giant fit system, which a guy did for me for free to help me see that. Don't guess on fit or take advice over the internet based on your dimensions, go get a fit from a good shop. It's worth it in my experience.


----------



## Rashadabd

Here's just one example of how much fit matters:

Diagnosis: Relieving that pressure | VeloNews.com


----------



## Whiplash

9W9W said:


> Yeah, look I understand your enthusiasm and it's cute and all, even your somewhat ignorant response, but take it from a guy who used to be just like you asking "will I fit x frame?". It's not that easy. I can put my hands/palms under my feet when standing up and bending over, can you do that? If the answer if no, then the position of your body on the bike will be completely different than someone like me (and you will not be able to strech as much forward to reach the bar while remaining in a comfortable sitting position). When Geda says he feels fine on a X sized frame, and you're going by that... then you are making the assumption that you are just as fit as Geda, that your pelvis and back muscle can strech as far and as much as as Geda's. What works for Geda, may not work for you. If you are less flexible and your stem is 10mm too long, your pelvis will tilt forward to compensate, or you will scoot forward on the saddle and you will NOT be comfortable over the course of a longer ride and walk away with a sore lower back or ass.
> 
> I thought I was riding a "correctly" sized and fitted frame for two years. As a new rider I wanted "the look" I thought suffering and pain was a part of the sport. I set up my bike based on how I thought it should be set up based on internet advice and looking at pictures. For two years I did this! Then I got fit and now it's a world of a difference.
> 
> Consider how stupid it is to size a bike based on the mm's of toptube in light of a) geometry I just talked about and b) the fact that handlebar "lengths" (the distance from the bar to where the brake hood is) can vary by 10mm or more between models... so you are worried about a 7mm difference in top tube size, but completely ignore the fact that the handlebar on this particular model can be as much as 10-15mm longer or shorter than another handlebar model on an older BMC. It's not about math or frame length and it's not rain/shine but rather, it's more about how flexible your body is.
> 
> Look, you're spending $3,000 on a BMC, yes? What is another $300? You want a big boy world-class bicycle for more money than most people make in one month... what is your aversion to another $300 and a fit? Judging by your response I think it's not the money that is the issue but rather the fact that you think you know better. Well, you don't.
> 
> You will buy this BMC, you will set it up based on some stuff you read on the internet, you will not be comfortable and you grow to hate riding it. You will ride less and less as riding will become a painful chore (sore ass, numb wrists) and you will leave the sport, or finally get a fit.
> 
> Enjoy the bike and good luck! njoy the bike.



Hey,

Thank you for your kind replay, and sorry for my last replay. The thing is, it's not about $300, like you said, if I'm going to pay that much for a bike(and the bike it's much more than you said), it's all about clipless pedal and shoes. I mean, I'm afraid to make this step for the moment, and now much more seeing I will pass to a very expensive bike. I know I will must do this step, and maybe this step will help me with my knees pains too(like you could read on my first post I have knee issues). You could read also in my first post, what bike I had before(that help you to can compare the geometry&sizes) and I never said I have back pain or ass pain with that bike. I know, it's a different geometry, it's a different material, what you want. But, guys, it's not like if I would take the 56 instead of 58 it's the solution. I mean, pretty sure both sizes need correction, with the handlebar or the steam. But I think on both size it's possible to find the solution. And if you were careful, you could "read" I'm a newbie and I'm looking for comfort, that means, I'm not a flexible guy. 
When I came here, I didn't came believing I will find someone who do pro fit and will resolve my problems, but in the same time, I thought a persone with a long background in cycling can help me out to figure the size of the bike, NOT the perfect bike for me. 
Because in the end, how can a software know I need a 10mm longer/shorter steam because I have back pain? Just me can know if I have pain or not in a particular position. Once again, I'm NOT against the fit, but like I said, to me, seems pointless without clipless pedals and shoes. 
I was so angry, because, even now, I can bet, no-one didn't take a look to the geometry/size of my old bike to can compare to the Roadmachine. And one more thing, maybe I'm wrong with that, but I think, if you are between 2 size, like as it seems I am, I thought the smaller size give you a more racy position, that the bigger size, and how I'm looking for comfort, I went for the bigger one. 

Kind regards.


----------



## tony_mm

Whiplash said:


> Hey,
> 
> Thank you for your kind replay, and sorry for my last replay. The thing is, it's not about $300, like you said, if I'm going to pay that much for a bike(and the bike it's much more than you said), it's all about clipless pedal and shoes. I mean, I'm afraid to make this step for the moment, and now much more seeing I will pass to a very expensive bike. I know I will must do this step, and maybe this step will help me with my knees pains too(like you could read on my first post I have knee issues). You could read also in my first post, what bike I had before(that help you to can compare the geometry&sizes) and I never said I have back pain or ass pain with that bike. I know, it's a different geometry, it's a different material, what you want. But, guys, it's not like if I would take the 56 instead of 58 it's the solution. I mean, pretty sure both sizes need correction, with the handlebar or the steam. But I think on both size it's possible to find the solution. And if you were careful, you could "read" I'm a newbie and I'm looking for comfort, that means, I'm not a flexible guy.
> When I came here, I didn't came believing I will find someone who do pro fit and will resolve my problems, but in the same time, I thought a persone with a long background in cycling can help me out to figure the size of the bike, NOT the perfect bike for me.
> Because in the end, how can a software know I need a 10mm longer/shorter steam because I have back pain? Just me can know if I have pain or not in a particular position. Once again, I'm NOT against the fit, but like I said, to me, seems pointless without clipless pedals and shoes.
> I was so angry, because, even now, I can bet, no-one didn't take a look to the geometry/size of my old bike to can compare to the Roadmachine. And one more thing, maybe I'm wrong with that, but I think, if you are between 2 size, like as it seems I am, I thought the smaller size give you a more racy position, that the bigger size, and how I'm looking for comfort, I went for the bigger one.
> 
> Kind regards.


Hi,

I just bought a BMC Roadmachine02 and here the 3 tools that I used in order to decide on the size and the stem length (in comparison with my current bike for example).

PS.: don‘t forget that the RM02 has two different geometries depending on the head cone (low or high).

You can check in the first two links which stem length you would need depending on the size of the RM02 that you want.


https://app.velogicfit.com/frame-comparison

http://www.bikegeo.net/

https://www.geometrygeeks.bike/compare/bmc-roadmachine-2017-56,norco-search-2016-55-5/


----------



## Whiplash

tony_mm said:


> Hi,





tony_mm said:


> I just bought a BMC Roadmachine02 and here the 3 tools that I used in order to decide on the size and the stem length (in comparison with my current bike for example).
> 
> PS.: don‘t forget that the RM02 has two different geometries depending on the head cone (low or high).
> 
> You can check in the first two links which stem length you would need depending on the size of the RM02 that you want.
> 
> 
> https://app.velogicfit.com/frame-comparison
> 
> Stack and reach calculator
> 
> https://www.geometrygeeks.bike/compare/bmc-roadmachine-2017-56,norco-search-2016-55-5/




Thank you.

Yesterday I got my new bike  It's lovely  I order in 58 size and when I will be prepared to make the step to the clipless I will do a Fit too. It's a Roadmachine 01 Four to whom I changed the mechanical Ultegra with the Di2. 















Have 8,385 kg(18,48 pounds) with flat pedals and 2 support for bottles.


----------



## Rashadabd

Whiplash said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Yesterday I got my new bike  It's lovely  I order in 58 size and when I will be prepared to make the step to the clipless I will do a Fit too. It's a Roadmachine 01 Four to whom I changed the mechanical Ultegra with the Di2.
> 
> View attachment 321257
> View attachment 321258
> 
> 
> Have 8,385 kg(18,48 pounds) with flat pedals and 2 support for bottles.


Cool, enjoy it! I hope the fit works out and you find a position that works well for you.


----------



## Whiplash

Thank you! I hope so too, once I will do this big step(to clipless), I will can say more about the fit. Now even the weather is very bad here, cold and a lot of wind, gusts of 60-120 km/h.


----------



## Migen21

I'm not one to poopoo the idea of a bike fit, but to be frank and honest, I don't think it's always necessary to determine frame size.

It's not like he came asking about seat height, cleat position, or bar drop. Or for help in diagnosing knee/back/neck pain, or even hand or groin or hand numbness. These are issues that require the attention of a good fitter or even a physical therapist.

When I bought my first nice bike several years ago, it came with a free fit. I had that done before I took the bike home, but I didn't need it to know my frame size. 

After about 1000-1500 miles, I realized the fit was not right. Stem length, seat height, seat shape, etc were all off. 

The fitting was close and helped me dial a few things in, but ultimately I ended up doing a lot of trial and and error, and I still tweak it on occasion.

I guess the point I'm making is, the guy was asking for opinions about adapting one specific size/geometry to an existing size/geometry from another manufacturer.

You dont need a fit to do this. He was just looking for someone who may have had a similar experience to share their wisdom.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Rashadabd

Migen21 said:


> I'm not one to poopoo the idea of a bike fit, but to be frank and honest, I don't think it's always necessary to determine frame size.
> 
> It's not like he came asking about seat height, cleat position, or bar drop. Or for help in diagnosing knee/back/neck pain, or even hand or groin or hand numbness. These are issues that require the attention of a good fitter or even a physical therapist.
> 
> When I bought my first nice bike several years ago, it came with a free fit. I had that done before I took the bike home, but I didn't need it to know my frame size.
> 
> After about 1000-1500 miles, I realized the fit was not right. Stem length, seat height, seat shape, etc were all off.
> 
> The fitting was close and helped me dial a few things in, but ultimately I ended up doing a lot of trial and and error, and I still tweak it on occasion.
> 
> I guess the point I'm making is, the guy was asking for opinions about adapting one specific size/geometry to an existing size/geometry from another manufacturer.
> 
> You dont need a fit to do this. He was just looking for someone who may have had a similar experience to share their wisdom.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


To each his own, but in my experience, a bad fit is the easiest way to inadvertently injure yourself and/or undermine the enjoyment that a new bike can bring. A good fit is simply where it's at and like 9W9W I can't think of one good reason not to get one if you are about to spend a bunch of money on a new bike. People should do what they want with their money though.


----------



## Whiplash

Migen21 said:


> I'm not one to poopoo the idea of a bike fit, but to be frank and honest, I don't think it's always necessary to determine frame size.
> 
> It's not like he came asking about seat height, cleat position, or bar drop. Or for help in diagnosing knee/back/neck pain, or even hand or groin or hand numbness. These are issues that require the attention of a good fitter or even a physical therapist.
> 
> When I bought my first nice bike several years ago, it came with a free fit. I had that done before I took the bike home, but I didn't need it to know my frame size.
> 
> After about 1000-1500 miles, I realized the fit was not right. Stem length, seat height, seat shape, etc were all off.
> 
> The fitting was close and helped me dial a few things in, but ultimately I ended up doing a lot of trial and and error, and I still tweak it on occasion.
> 
> I guess the point I'm making is, the guy was asking for opinions about adapting one specific size/geometry to an existing size/geometry from another manufacturer.
> 
> You dont need a fit to do this. He was just looking for someone who may have had a similar experience to share their wisdom.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Hey ya,

Well, very well said. Was that, I wanted this bike, BMC Roadmachine, because all what I read about made me the choice this one instead of others. All what I asked, was which size is for me, seeing I'm between 56 and 58. For that reason I gave all my sizes and asked to those who have more experience(cause I have 0) to tell me which size to choice. After I need to do the fit for seat height, to change the steam length, or others, that is a thing which I must do even on 56 or 58 size.

Anyway, now it's to late, I bought the 58.

Thank you all which tried to help me!


----------



## Whiplash

Rashadabd said:


> To each his own, but in my experience, a bad fit is the easiest way to inadvertently injure yourself and/or undermine the enjoyment that a new bike can bring. A good fit is simply where it's at and like 9W9W I can't think of one good reason not to get one if you are about to spend a bunch of money on a new bike. People should do what they want with their money though.


I like to "see" the stubborn people. So, after you, I had to buy shoes and automatic pedals, even I'm not "ready" to use them, just to make the fit. Like, if someone spend 4899 euros plus how I payed to pass to Di2, must spend another 600-650 euros for the fit(200 shoes+200 pedals + 250 fit)?
I mean, really, after years and years of cycling, and I mean +10 years, I'm pretty sure there are even with 20, 30 years of experience, the only thing with you can say, it's: "go to get a fit" ?! That's "painful". Like Migen said, I didn't ask the Fit from you guys.


----------



## Das Recht

I am retrofitting di2 on my roadmachine 02. Does anyone have any information on where to put the junction box b? Any other outing pics?


----------



## Das Recht

I am in the process of upgrading my mechanical RM02 to Di2. Does nayone have pictures of where the junction B is placed and the wire placement around the BB?

Thanks.


----------



## Migen21

Rashadabd said:


> To each his own, but in my experience, a bad fit is the easiest way to inadvertently injure yourself and/or undermine the enjoyment that a new bike can bring. A good fit is simply where it's at and like 9W9W I can't think of one good reason not to get one if you are about to spend a bunch of money on a new bike. People should do what they want with their money though.


He already had a bike that fit him. He was just looking for some geometry data correlation between his current bike and one he had never seen.


----------



## Das Recht

Sirvelo said:


> Did you get any clarity to your question on the junction box? I am in a similar position: Just ordered RM-01 frameset to do my own build and am wondering if I can place the Shimano bar-end junction box in the frame in the hatch for the mechanical cables (like the SLR-01). As far as I cans see, the cover seems similar on the SLR-01 and the RM-01.


I just tried placing the junction box into an '17 RM02 frameset. It will not work (at least without modification. I suspect that the junction cover for the SLR-01 is different (slightly) from the roadmachine cover.


----------



## Whiplash

Das Recht said:


> I am in the process of upgrading my mechanical RM02 to Di2. Does nayone have pictures of where the junction B is placed and the wire placement around the BB?
> 
> Thanks.



Hi, 

I dunno if that with help ya, seeing I have a 01 frame, but mine(junction box) is put under the steam like you can see in the picture below. And the wires pass through the frame. But if you take a look at the 02 One seems the wires pass through the frame too. I asked the seller why the Junction Box can't be mounted directly in the oblique tube, and he told me just BMC have the Junction Box which can be mounted there and it's not for sale. Anyway, I wrote to BMC to see what they will say about it.


----------



## Rashadabd

Migen21 said:


> He already had a bike that fit him. He was just looking for some geometry data correlation between his current bike and one he had never seen.


My answer is the same. Get fit. Each bike is different. Why guess and eyeball it? What's the upside?


----------



## Whiplash

Rashadabd said:


> My answer is the same. Get fit. Each bike is different. Why guess and eyeball it? What's the upside?


Gosh! You really do not understand anything? I will FIT. I didn't come here to ask for get fit on this bike. Just what size FIT ME! And with more than 10 years of experience, you guys MUST KNOW TO ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION. Even if each bike is different. Once you have the sizes of an old bike, you MUST BE ABLE to comparate with another bike sizes and geometry and answer to my question. It's simple like that, stop with this bull**** saying you must fit. I knew that before to come here and ask what I asked. If you can't answer me, better don't replay instead to keep saying go get a fit.


----------



## Rashadabd

Whiplash said:


> Gosh! You really do not understand anything? I will FIT. I didn't come here to ask for get fit on this bike. Just what size FIT ME! And with more than 10 years of experience, you guys MUST KNOW TO ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION. Even if each bike is different. Once you have the sizes of an old bike, you MUST BE ABLE to comparate with another bike sizes and geometry and answer to my question. It's simple like that, stop with this bull**** saying you must fit. I knew that before to come here and ask what I asked. If you can't answer me, better don't replay instead to keep saying go get a fit.


First, take a deep breath and take it down 3000%. If you knew all of that (that you fit and which size, etc.), then you really didn't need to post the question anyway. If you are posting the question, you don't know do you. Taking the size off of one bike and speculating on a different brand from that fit is guessing. It's an educated guess, but a guess nonetheless. My feeling is fit is probably something you want to get right, but I might be wrong about that so do as you please. I'm not changing my advice though....


----------



## Finx

on6qd said:


> The bike is currently at the shop and I'm waiting for BMC's reply. I'll keep you posted.


Did this ever get resolved?


----------



## systemr

Thurs was new bike day and today I took out my RM01 for the first time!


----------



## tony_mm

Nice colour!!

Which size is it?

Do you use only low profile wheels?


----------



## Finx

systemr said:


> Thurs was new bike day and today I took out my RM01 for the first time!
> 
> View attachment 321560


That's a good looking ride! I love the Marin Headlands, and bombing down Hawk Hill. One of my all time favorites days when I was there a couple of years ago.

What do you think of the bike?


----------



## systemr

Finx said:


> That's a good looking ride! I love the Marin Headlands, and bombing down Hawk Hill. One of my all time favorites days when I was there a couple of years ago.
> 
> What do you think of the bike?


Thanks! It is a fantastic bike, great blend of performance, comfort and it looks damn sexy too. So stable compared to my old SuperSix and the discs are so powerful with amazing modulation that it gives me great confidence bombing down hawk hill 



tony_mm said:


> Nice colour!!
> 
> Which size is it?
> 
> Do you use only low profile wheels?


54. Will probably add a set of Enve or Zipps later but honestly was stretching the budget a bit already. I demo'd a RM01 a while back and it took me 4 months to find a great deal on one, had it built up with Red eTAP as I loved the interface over the original Ultegra Di2 build I was considering.


----------



## Rasto

Hi guys, I wonder whether this teammachine direct mount RD hanger is compatible with the roadmachine RM01 frame. Any ideas?


----------



## tony_mm

Also very interested to know!


----------



## Finx

I'm pretty sure the team machine is the only bike that takes direct mount derailleur.


----------



## Rasto

That sucks.. but thanks for info anyway. It would be nice if we have this capability on the RM frame too.


----------



## utku

I have a 2017 BMC Roadmachine 02 with 1.5K miles on it and I just noticed a half-inch length hairline crack right behind the seat tube. At this point I'm not sure if it's just a paint crack or the early days of a cracked frame. This doesn't seem to be a very rare problem if the following post on Slowtwitch is to be believed. Please let us know how your warranty situation is resolved.

Thoughts on new road bike: BMC Roadmachine ?: Triathlon Forum: Slowtwitch Forums


















<tbody>

</tbody>


on6qd said:


> RM02 frame cracks.
> 
> View attachment 320832
> 
> 
> My RM02 frame develops cracks. The bike has approx 10000Km (6200 Miles).
> Anybody have similar issues?


----------



## 9W9W

I'm going to take a bold stance and weight in on both pictures/posts.

I used to own a LOOK 566 which was an incredibly flexy frame. That coupled with what appeared to be a very generous or rich coat of paint led to exactly the type of paint cracks at certain joints in the frame exhibited by the yellow frame. I'm fat, I trashed it for miles to come and eventually sold it (fully disclosed). The second buyer enjoyed it for year + to come. 

Done yapping. All best.

After I sold the LOOK I purchased an SLR01 and was initially taken aback by the number of frame "imperfections" visible through the naked coat of clear paint. There were folds, bends, folded ears, creases, etcs showing. I have wailed on that bike for years now and it's fine. Although the point of failure would probably be the rear chainstay where I have gouged out a chainsuck gash that is multiple layers of carbon deep. Forget the fingernail test , this gouge is a 1/2 millimeter deep. 

Personally, I don't see the crack in the RM seat post. If you are doubting the vertical fold then you should also be equally concerned out about the horizontal imperfection as well, yes? If not, then perhaps neither is valid?


----------



## Migen21

utku said:


> I have a 2017 BMC Roadmachine 02 with 1.5K miles on it and I just noticed a half-inch length hairline crack right behind the seat tube. At this point I'm not sure if it's just a paint crack or the early days of a cracked frame. This doesn't seem to be a very rare problem if the following post on Slowtwitch is to be believed. Please let us know how your warranty situation is resolved.
> 
> Thoughts on new road bike: BMC Roadmachine ?: Triathlon Forum: Slowtwitch Forums



I bought an RM-01 Frameset last November. Same color (Team Black/Red).

It had those marks on the back of the seatpost the day I took it out of the box. To me, they appear to be some kind of mold seam artifact. They are perfectly symmetrical. 

I'm 6' 5" and 220lbs. I've ridden it more than 6000 miles (about half on gravel) since then, and it has been fine. 

I initially had some trouble with the seatpost slipping, but that problem seems to have resolved itself as it's not slipped since the first few rides.


----------



## utku

I was actually referring to the short vertical crack behind the seat tube in my post, not the seam behind the seatpost. Perhaps you meant the same thing, but unlike carbon layer seams this is not smooth to the touch.



Migen21 said:


> I bought an RM-01 Frameset last November. Same color (Team Black/Red).
> 
> It had those marks on the back of the seatpost the day I took it out of the box. To me, they appear to be some kind of mold seam artifact. They are perfectly symmetrical.
> 
> I'm 6' 5" and 220lbs. I've ridden it more than 6000 miles (about half on gravel) since then, and it has been fine.
> 
> I initially had some trouble with the seatpost slipping, but that problem seems to have resolved itself as it's not slipped since the first few rides.


----------



## Migen21

utku said:


> I was actually referring to the short vertical crack behind the seat tube in my post, not the seam behind the seatpost. Perhaps you meant the same thing, but unlike carbon layer seams this is not smooth to the touch.


Ahh, yea, i was looking at those seams on the back of the seat tube (I think that is what the posts on slowtwitch were talking about as well).

If that seatpost seam is separating, I can't imaging BMC not honoring a warranty on that. Have you inquired at your shop?


----------



## utku

I went to see my LBS today and they immediately recognized the problem just by looking at the photos, the ones I've posted above and some other closeups. Of course they still need to see the bike in person and do their own inspection, but it looks like they'll submit a claim on my behalf. And I have no doubt BMC will take good care of me.



Migen21 said:


> Ahh, yea, i was looking at those seams on the back of the seat tube (I think that is what the posts on slowtwitch were talking about as well).
> 
> If that seatpost seam is separating, I can't imaging BMC not honoring a warranty on that. Have you inquired at your shop?


----------



## utku

The crack (vertical) is on the seat tube where it meets with the seatpost, not on the seatpost itself. What you see on the seatpost is just the different carbon pieces fused there. A very thin layer of paint is making these purely cosmetic imperfections visible, which is totally fine. Paint weighs a lot. And what appears to be a horizontal crack is actually an imprint of the rubber seat clamp cover (not seen in these photos). Again, this is purely cosmetic. The crack itself however is not smooth to the touch unlike the cosmetic imperfections.



9W9W said:


> I'm going to take a bold stance and weight in on both pictures/posts.
> 
> I used to own a LOOK 566 which was an incredibly flexy frame. That coupled with what appeared to be a very generous or rich coat of paint led to exactly the type of paint cracks at certain joints in the frame exhibited by the yellow frame. I'm fat, I trashed it for miles to come and eventually sold it (fully disclosed). The second buyer enjoyed it for year + to come.
> 
> Done yapping. All best.
> 
> After I sold the LOOK I purchased an SLR01 and was initially taken aback by the number of frame "imperfections" visible through the naked coat of clear paint. There were folds, bends, folded ears, creases, etcs showing. I have wailed on that bike for years now and it's fine. Although the point of failure would probably be the rear chainstay where I have gouged out a chainsuck gash that is multiple layers of carbon deep. Forget the fingernail test , this gouge is a 1/2 millimeter deep.
> 
> Personally, I don't see the crack in the RM seat post. If you are doubting the vertical fold then you should also be equally concerned out about the horizontal imperfection as well, yes? If not, then perhaps neither is valid?


----------



## m8ey

hi all,

I have a Roadmachine 01 ONE (the Grey one) that I got in Sept 2017. This had the Junction box under the stem but my LBS relocated it under the Crank to make it tidy. Looks much better as its not really seen.

On the 2018 Team Machines the Junction box is located in the frame as Shimano released the handle bar end type box. Looks much nicer.

Anyone know if this Junction box can be used on the older Road Machines? I have heard it wont fit in the frame and the true 2018 RM was changed slightly to make it fit.


----------



## tony_mm

m8ey said:


> hi all,
> 
> I have a Roadmachine 01 ONE (the Grey one) that I got in Sept 2017. This had the Junction box under the stem but my LBS relocated it under the Crank to make it tidy. Looks much better as its not really seen.
> 
> On the 2018 Team Machines the Junction box is located in the frame as Shimano released the handle bar end type box. Looks much nicer.
> 
> Anyone know if this Junction box can be used on the older Road Machines? I have heard it wont fit in the frame and the true 2018 RM was changed slightly to make it fit.


If it doesn’t fit in the frame put it on the drops of the handlebar!
That will look much cleaner! Especially o the RM01.


----------



## m8ey

At this stage its under the crank which is fine as it cannot really be seen.

I would like the newer version that fits in the frame if its possible. Failing that under the crank is fine.

















Just tidier in the frame and a little easier to get to


----------



## chriscjtaylor

My new bike is complete, specs and more pics to come.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BeyZzFEjNeA/?taken-by=vanilla.cycles


----------



## Lucca

chriscjtaylor said:


> My new bike is complete, specs and more pics to come.
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BeyZzFEjNeA/?taken-by=vanilla.cycles


Wow. I love it. How tall are you and what size is it?


----------



## chriscjtaylor

Lucca said:


> Wow. I love it. How tall are you and what size is it?


I'm short and its a small ha ha!


----------



## tony_mm

Size 47 I guess.
Richie Porte use also a size 47 (Teammachine SLR01) and he is 172cm


----------



## tony_mm

chriscjtaylor said:


> My new bike is complete, specs and more pics to come.
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BeyZzFEjNeA/?taken-by=vanilla.cycles


Look very sharp!
Love the colour!


----------



## chriscjtaylor

Yeah it’s a 47, I’m 165cm.

Build is:
RM01 Frameset
DA 9170 Di2
Easton EC90SL Crankset
3T Ergo Team bars
Tune King / Kong on LB 45mm rims / Sapim Cx Ray
Mavic Yksion 28mm tubeless tyres
San Marco Aspide Fx carbon
Look Ti
Carbon Ti axles


----------



## bsiver

I'm in the process of upgrading my 2017 mechanical RM01 to Di2. So far I've bought all of the components of the groupset, but I'm wondering if anyone can provide some details on additional things I might need to complete the setup.

Specifically, does the Di2 RM01 use grommets for the wires exiting the frame for the RD? If so, is this the "oval" or "circle" shaped ones that Shimano sells? Also, I noticed the BMC manual for the RM01 shows that the Di2 version of the frame uses a different bottom bracket cover than the mechanical. Will that affect routing of the Di2 wires at all, or can I use the existing bottom bracket cover with the new setup? If anyone's done this upgrade I'd be interested to hear any potential small details I might look out for. Thanks!


----------



## Rasto

You will need grommets for both fd and rd cable. For me oval shaped grommets worked fine. Regarding bb cover check this kit: RM01 di2 kit 300708
In this kit you'll get all needed for the rebuilt. It's not necessary though. It just look better with it.


----------



## Surreyhills

I'm hoping someone might be able to help with weight savings, it appears lot's of Roadmachiner's have changed group set, but i'm struggling to get an overall picture of weight savings. I've got a RM01 Mechanical Ultegra: 

I'd like to understand the weight saving for swapping this to: 
a) SRAM Red Etap 
b) Dura Ace di2
c) Mechanical Dura-Ace 

I've various changes and am down to 7.8kg exactly, but would love to lose another 0.5kg....just not sure if changing the groupset would get there. Assuming swapping of all components e.g cassette etc. 

Any guidance much appreciated. 

Cheers


----------



## Finx

Surreyhills said:


> I'm hoping someone might be able to help with weight savings, it appears lot's of Roadmachiner's have changed group set, but i'm struggling to get an overall picture of weight savings. I've got a RM01 Mechanical Ultegra:
> 
> I'd like to understand the weight saving for swapping this to:
> a) SRAM Red Etap
> b) Dura Ace di2
> c) Mechanical Dura-Ace
> 
> I've various changes and am down to 7.8kg exactly, but would love to lose another 0.5kg....just not sure if changing the groupset would get there. Assuming swapping of all components e.g cassette etc.
> 
> Any guidance much appreciated.
> 
> Cheers


All of those component weights are readily available on the Internet. I wouldn't be surprised if you found them all in a database over on Weight Weenies...

You didn't mention what wheels and tires you are running. Possibly some weight savings there.


----------



## chriscjtaylor

Have you got the rs910 bar end junction? By using this all my cables and junctions are hidden inside my frame. I dont have the junction at stem or below bb.

Existing cover is fine, it just has cable routing for the mech wires, will be fine with di2.

Do you have the seatube battery cradle?


----------



## Surreyhills

Thanks for the reply - struggling a bit to find much detail on the SRAM hydraulic shifters, but will keep searching. Current mods below-think I have most of the main bases covered, except group set, but any ideas welcome. 

Wheels: Hunt30 Carbon Aero (1338g) + IRC Formula Pro 25s, tubeless
Saddle: Pro Falcon Carbon (163g)
Pedals: Xpedo Thrust 8 Ti (170g pair) 
Bars: 3T Ergonova Stealth (198g)
Groupset: Stock Ultegra, with Stages G2 left arm power meter


----------



## sasquatch16

Quick internet search got me the following:
Ultegra 6800 Mechanical - 2294 grams
Durace 9070 - 2034 grams
Durace 9000 - 1998 grams
Etap - 1970 grams


----------



## Mad_Hun

All,

I'm thinking about trying an FSA SLK Modular subcompact crank on my Roadmachine - probably the 48/32 but maybe the 46/30. Do you know if the front derailleur mount permits the FD to be dropped low enough to work with either of these combinations? I'm running Ultegra di2 currently.


----------



## bronco71

2018 RM 02 Two, 56cm, r8000 components, DT Swiss tubeless ready alloy wheels, 28 mm tires.

Simply the finest riding racy road bike I've ever been on. This machine is great all around, but really shines on rough pavement. The 8000 mechanical group is excellent. shifts smoothly and quietly while under load. Surprisingly, it climbs rather well for what isn't a very light bike.

It's towards the low end of the range, but is a tremendous value.


----------



## Whiplash

Hi there,

I want to ask those who have a Roadmachine in size 58 their height and inseam. 

Thank you in advance.


----------



## on6qd

FYI, BMC replaced to frame under warranty


----------



## cannondaleCAD3

Hello, as I had Trouble with my 3T discus wheels (spoke broke the second time! after riding 2000 km). I decided to order DT Swiss ER1400 wheels. My question: doea anybody here use ER1600 / ER 1400 wheels combined with 25mm tires? I still have a set of those, but DT recommends to use 28mm....

I am interested in ride characteristics of 25mm and 28mm (maybe anyone has compared both with theER1400/ER1600 wheels).


----------



## Roubaixalltheway

*Stack spacer rattle*

Just built up an 01 with all three of the stack spacers that on the first ride rattled on most road surfaces. Does anybody have ideas to keep them from rattling?


----------



## tony_mm

Is your headset correctly adjusted? Any play? That‘s the first thing to check. Especially after the first few hundred kilometers.

Otherwise apply some wax or grease between the spacers.


----------



## StephenCy

Hi - what colour is that? Is it Stealth? If so, I am interested to know if you can see the lay-up or whether the paint gives it a "clean" look. Thanks!


----------



## megladon

I have a 2018 RM 02 but was just curious what is needed to use the integrated stem from either the new 2019 RM 02 or 2018 RM 01

A friend of mine said the only way to do it is to use the whole fork of the 01 on the 02, but if that’s the only way I’m not gonna bother lol maybe just purchase another stem that will fit the 02. 

Any thoughts?


----------



## chriscjtaylor

megladon said:


> I have a 2018 RM 02 but was just curious what is needed to use the integrated stem from either the new 2019 RM 02 or 2018 RM 01
> 
> A friend of mine said the only way to do it is to use the whole fork of the 01 on the 02, but if that’s the only way I’m not gonna bother lol maybe just purchase another stem that will fit the 02.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Yeah you need the flat sided fork as well otherwise wont be any use to you.


----------



## utku

megladon said:


> I have a 2018 RM 02 but was just curious what is needed to use the integrated stem from either the new 2019 RM 02 or 2018 RM 01
> 
> A friend of mine said the only way to do it is to use the whole fork of the 01 on the 02, but if that’s the only way I’m not gonna bother lol maybe just purchase another stem that will fit the 02.
> 
> Any thoughts?


2019 02 frames come with a *new* ICStem that can be put on pre-2019 02 frames as well. This stem is actually very similar to the old ICStem for 01 frames, but my LBS told me the internals are a bit different to prevent creaking with round-steerer fork. So yeah, it looks like you can retrofit just the stem and the appropriate carbon top cone to your 2018 RM 02. Note that you still won't have full internal cable routing. For that, you'll need the ICFork as well. Please double check this with your LBS.


----------



## GeorgeHotopan

Hi xterrastrial,

I have recently purchased a RoadMachine 02 2019, and after one week I started to get creaks around the stem region every time I lean my weight on either sides of the handlebar (e.g. out of saddle on climbs or sprinting or starting from a stand position). I checked the front thru axle, the stem bolts, the pins on the 1 spacer I use, greased and torqued everything and the two bolts of the stem clamp to spec (5Nm), still with no result. Did you find a fix? As grease I use Muc-off BioGrease. Your feedback is greatly appreciated, as the creaks are driving me crazy ((


----------



## xterrastrial

Hi George - I feel your pain. I *may* have finally come across a solution. My RM01 has been creak free for 2-3 weeks now ... longest time ever. The fix was one of two things the LBS did recently.

1) I noticed that the o ring was missing inside the bmc headset cone. I had the low version put on pretty soon after I got the bike (they all come stock with the high version). Not sure if it ever had the o ring in the groove, or if it got lost during a rebuild with the new frameset that bmc sent me trying to fix the problem last winter.

2) the other thing the mechanic did was apply a grease (need to confirm what kind) in the contact points of the puzzle piece stem face plate. Just between the stem parts, not touching the bars.

Other than that, he used grease for bolts and friction paste for contact points between bars and stem ... but I had been doing that for well over a year.

Do a quick check for the o ring in the groove inside the headset cone, then try grease in the puzzle piece. And when tightening the stem face plate bolts with the torque wrench, go slow and alternate between the two a little at a time to get both to a proper 5Nn (you might be already doing this).

Let me know how that goes.

Paul


----------



## live2veg

If my frame has just the cover do I need a special BMC grommet to put RS910 junction box in frame cut out? I see two screws and a hole cut out.


----------



## gurk700

Hey guys! I'm a happy owner of a used (new to me) Roadmachine 02. I was wondering if BMC offers a 0 offset seatpost for the Roadmachine. I read somewhere that they do but I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.


----------



## 9W9W

gurk700 said:


> Hey guys! I'm a happy owner of a used (new to me) Roadmachine 02. I was wondering if BMC offers a 0 offset seatpost for the Roadmachine. I read somewhere that they do but I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.


Sounds like the bike is a bit on the large side, yeah? I have my Prologo seat almost all the way forward on its rails with the standard post on a bike that is on the larger end of my range. Plus is being able to run very little spacers.


----------



## Finx

gurk700 said:


> Hey guys! I'm a happy owner of a used (new to me) Roadmachine 02. I was wondering if BMC offers a 0 offset seatpost for the Roadmachine. I read somewhere that they do but I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.


This question can really only be answered definitively by a BMC dealer.

I believe Element Cycles in Redmond WA is a premium (online) dealer for BMC. I've had good luck working with them in the past.

If you are in the US, you might want to drop them an email or call and see if they can answer your question.

Here is their contact page.
https://www.elementcycles.net/contact/


----------



## gurk700

has anyone had any trouble with rear hydraulic brake cable getting in the way of bottom bracket? there seems to be only one way to route it and when I do, the cable is definitely sitting where the middle cylinder part of the bottom bracket.


----------



## Rasto

gurk700, the instruction manual says: "The rear brake hydraulic housingwill pass UNDER the bottombracket"
As far as I remember, I didn't have any problem with routing the brake hose.


----------



## Finx

Indeed. Under it goes..


----------



## Rasto

Guys, I'm thinking of getting some aero bars for my RM01 and I came across this BMC ICS aero combo (developed for the new BMC Timemachine). I like the design of it and the fact that all cables are completely hidden inside. I wonder whether the ICS aero stem fits the roadmachine RM01 frame. I guess it doesn't fit but that's just my guess. Anybody know? Thanks.


----------



## Finx

Based on this link, I'm going to guess they are not the same.

https://www.bmc-switzerland.com/us-en/innovation/ics-integrated-cockpit-system/










They look very similar, but I think where it breaks down is that stem cap shape is different between the Roadmachine/TeamMachine and the new TimeMachine Road.


----------



## Rasto

Yes but check this out. The spacers below the aero stem look really similar to those on roadmachine. If spacers are the same then the stem should fit as well i think.


----------



## Finx

I agree that they look 'similar' and even said so in my post above. Whether you could get it to work with your stem cap and steerer is still unknown.

I'd stop by your local BMC dealer and ask them. They build the bikes every day and would likely know....


----------



## bodyelectric

Hi there,

I'm in the market for a high-end Roadmachine and wondering what you guys would make out of this piece of information. It's from the list of UCI approved frames. Several questions:

1) Out of 43 pages of approved frames, the Roadmachine 1+2 are the only ones (!!!) that have been crossed out. Obviously the Roadmachine once had UCI approval until something happened – but what?

2) Has the Roadmachine actually ever been used in Pro racing, like e.g. the Specialized Roubaix?

3) With something called the "Roadmachine 20" having been approved on 14.11.2018, are we in for a major overhaul soon?

Looking forward to your thoughts
Cheers


----------



## Finx

I'm not sure what the current status is. At some point, the seat tube on the RoadMachine was determined to be too thin to meet UCI standards. 

I am pretty sure the guys at the LBS told me that the issue had been resolved.

Is that list current?


----------



## bodyelectric

Finx said:


> Is that list current?


as of today


----------



## Finx

I just looked at it and saw that it was still on there. Kind of surprised. It specifically says this applies to RoadMachines that have the UCI sticker (the sentence in French under the lined out listing).


----------



## bodyelectric

I researched the topic a little more and found a Danish cycling website that cited violation of article 1.3.020 as the reason. Article 1.3.020 states that "the frame of the bicycle shall be of a traditional pattern, i.e. built around a main triangle" and goes on to explain how the seat tube shall go into the center of the bottom bracket - which the seat tube on the Roadmachine clearly does not ...









Well, I couldn't care less about the UCI's preoccupation w/ preserving the traditional look of bikes, but I don't like the fact that BMC cannot prove their design by actually racing their bikes on the cobbled classics like e.g. Paris-Roubaix.

And lastly I'm really surprised that nobody is jumping on the Roadmachine 2.0 leak. I for one am definitely not going to buy a bike that will probably be replaced at the end of the season.


----------



## scottysells

What roadmachine 2.0 leak are you talking about? Have a link?


----------



## bodyelectric

*sigh*

(Have a close look at what Dimension Data will ride on 14th April)


----------



## Rasto

I asked BMC about the compatibility of the ICS aero stem/bars and roadmachine RM01 frame and to my surprise they answered that it is compatible. 

This is what they actually wrote:
"Yes it's possible to mount the ICS Aero Handlebar and Aero Stem (ICS Aero Bar - Compatible with ICS Aero stem only) on your Roadmachine 01, assuming you already have the ICS stem."


----------



## scottysells

RM01 or 2?

I've been saving for about a year and have been test riding, researching, etc... I've narrowed my purchase down to two models of the BMC roadmachine that are within my budget. 
My budget is right at $4000 which (barring finding a great deal on a used RM01) between two models. 
RM01 FOUR 2018 $4239 https://www.bmc-switzerland.com/us-en/support/bike-archive/2018/road/roadmachine-01/four/
RM02 TWO 2019 $3999 https://www.bmc-switzerland.com/us-en/bikes/road/endurance-roadmachine-02-two/
Both have mechanical Ultegra. I would really like to go with the RM01 to keep the weight down in the long run but I'm not in love with the blue/grey paint scheme. It has the integrated cockpit which is cool. 
The RM02 airforce grey appeals to me much more but I would take a 180 gram penalty due to the lower grade carbon compared to the 01. 
My long term plan is to replace the wheelset on either choice so wheels are not really a factor in my decision. I may one day want to go with Di2 and either frame is ready for that already. I would be more excited to invest in Di2 on the 01 frame since it's a higher quality carbon layup vs. the 02. 
So do I go with the better looking (to me) and slightly heavier bike or do I spend a few extra hundred to get into the RM01 frameset even though I don't dig the paint job so much?


----------



## bodyelectric

With the Roadmachine 2.0 on the horizon I wouldn't buy into an outdated frame design.


----------



## gurk700

bodyelectric said:


> *sigh*
> 
> (Have a close look at what Dimension Data will ride on 14th April)


Can't find anything on this. I call bogus.


----------



## bodyelectric

gurk700 said:


> Can't find anything on this. I call bogus.


"Will ride" is future tense, right? Seems like you don't even know what you're talking about ...


----------



## Ridin'Sorra

bodyelectric said:


> "Will ride" is future tense, right? Seems like you don't even know what you're talking about ...


Checked in today, updated as of 06Mar19









The Roadmachine 20 is not there.
Leak? Maybe but being 13Mar and with races coming you'd think the model was already approved for racing if they decided so.

Apparently Dimension used the Teammachine at Strade Bianche unless this new RoadMachine 2.0 is homologated (again?) before the cobbled classics.

Still, being a 2016 model, it's starting to get long in the tooth. I want one, though!


----------



## bodyelectric

That is indeed funny, the Roadmachine 20 is gone from the list. I wouldn't be surprised if it was because of this very thread. Gotta keep up sales of the old model until the release ...

Dimension Data raced Teammachines at Strade Bianche, but then again you cannot really compare that race to Paris-Roubaix.


----------



## Ridin'Sorra

bodyelectric said:


> That is indeed funny, the Roadmachine 20 is gone from the list. I wouldn't be surprised if it was because of this very thread. Gotta keep up sales of the old model until the release ...
> 
> Dimension Data raced Teammachines at Strade Bianche, but then again you cannot really compare that race to Paris Roubaix.


Who knows?
We would be seeing good deals on Roadmachines already but at least in Australia, that is not the case. They're still going at full pop mostly.


----------



## bodyelectric

We would be seeing good deals if people knew a new model is coming up and hang tight. But just like the fools they are, they rather trust corporate marketing than clear evidence and common sense.


----------



## megladon

utku said:


> 2019 02 frames come with a *new* ICStem that can be put on pre-2019 02 frames as well. This stem is actually very similar to the old ICStem for 01 frames, but my LBS told me the internals are a bit different to prevent creaking with round-steerer fork. So yeah, it looks like you can retrofit just the stem and the appropriate carbon top cone to your 2018 RM 02. Note that you still won't have full internal cable routing. For that, you'll need the ICFork as well. Please double check this with your LBS.


Appreciate it. 

Just ordered a fork from the rm01 for my 02. 

Excited about being able to run the cables internally.

Another dumb question, where exactly does the di2 internal battery fit into the rm02? 

Can it fit in the seat tube? Just because of the odd shape of the seat post I assumed maybe it wouldn’t fit in there.. 

Thanks a lot for the input, I’ll keep you guys updated


----------



## megladon

chriscjtaylor said:


> Yeah you need the flat sided fork as well otherwise wont be any use to you.


Ya, good to know. Thnx.

Anyone have a link on a place that sells the rm01 low top come from 2017-2018? They’re sold out online but I guess my bmc dealer will have some laying around.


----------



## utku

megladon said:


> Appreciate it.
> 
> Just ordered a fork from the rm01 for my 02.
> 
> Excited about being able to run the cables internally.
> 
> Another dumb question, where exactly does the di2 internal battery fit into the rm02?
> 
> Can it fit in the seat tube? Just because of the odd shape of the seat post I assumed maybe it wouldn’t fit in there..
> 
> Thanks a lot for the input, I’ll keep you guys updated


I don't have Di2 installed on my 02 nor have 01 fork for internal cabling. But it's same as 01, inside the seatpost. In fact, 01 and 02 share the exact same seatpost. And that's where the battery goes in all models.


----------



## miahmouse

utku said:


> I don't have Di2 installed on my 02 nor have 01 fork for internal cabling. But it's same as 01, inside the seatpost. In fact, 01 and 02 share the exact same seatpost. And that's where the battery goes in all models.


yup.. just pull the seatpost to verify. Should be a hollowed out foam, the battery screws into the foam.


----------



## Ridin'Sorra

Ridin'Sorra said:


> Checked in today, updated as of 06Mar19
> 
> View attachment 324846
> 
> 
> The Roadmachine 20 is not there.
> Leak? Maybe but being 13Mar and with races coming you'd think the model was already approved for racing if they decided so.
> 
> Apparently Dimension used the Teammachine at Strade Bianche unless this new RoadMachine 2.0 is homologated (again?) before the cobbled classics.
> 
> Still, being a 2016 model, it's starting to get long in the tooth. I want one, though!


09Apr... 5d before Roubaix no Roadmachine on the UCI approved list... yet.
Dimension Data rode Tour of Flanders on Teammachines and Timemachines.

But then, Specialized just released the new Roubaix... which is not on the list as Approved but the pictures seem to have a UCI sticker on the bike.


----------



## bodyelectric

So, I was wrong. Dimension Data raced Teammachines on Sunday. Also, the new Specialized Roubaix has been approved as "ROUBAIX MY20" on 27.09.2018.

It is actually quite strange with Specialized, Trek, Giant and others actually racing their endurance platforms while BMC does not - despite the race-winning BMC Granfondo from a couple years ago ...


----------



## Finx

There is a new bike coming from BMC. I'm not clear on whether it will be a new RoadMachine or something else.

I was told it will be a platform suitable for some gravel. Not much in the way of details though ( release date, other details).


----------



## Ridin'Sorra

bodyelectric said:


> So, I was wrong. Dimension Data raced Teammachines on Sunday. Also, the new Specialized Roubaix has been approved as "ROUBAIX MY20" on 27.09.2018.
> 
> It is actually quite strange with Specialized, Trek, Giant and others actually racing their endurance platforms while BMC does not - despite the race-winning BMC Granfondo from a couple years ago ...


Not everyone has been using their endurance bikes. Canyon riders are on Ultimates and Aeroads (on cobbles!!!). Van Der Poel is racing with his Aeroad. Endurace's nowhere to be seen. Van Avermaet was on a previous generation Defy (the one that is lighter with an integrated mast).

My guess is that Endurance bikes are not a thing in the peloton anymore thanks to disc equipped racing bikes that are just compliant enough. Exception made for Specialized and Pinarello that are pushing something very specific.

The Roadmachine is up for a revamp at any rate, so you are not wrong. Something must be coming.


----------



## VIRUS

Hi guys,

I also think about becoming a proud owner of a Roadmachine (02 One 2019). It has a black finish, but in some parts the light gets broken and it looks like patches where the Carbon underneath has been joined or the frame was sanded. Do you know if that is normal because there is no "real" varnish layer above or if I was shown a defective unit?

Many thanks for any helpful comments. God I hope that this is the "carbon finish" of the bike so that I can buy it with a calm mind 😊

Best,
Phil


----------



## Finx

That's a very normal feature of BMC naked finishes.... I've had three of them and they all have it.


----------



## utku

I'm the original owner of a matte black Roadmachine and the paint is exactly like what you described. Since there's very little or no clear coat on top of matte paint, you can see the individual patches of carbon or where they fold etc. So this is perfectly normal.


----------



## VIRUS

Many thanks for the info to utku and Finx. I got myself a great new bike 😁


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## Finx

VIRUS said:


> Many thanks for the info to utku and Finx. I got myself a great new bike


Pics or it didn't happen


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## utku

VIRUS said:


> Many thanks for the info to utku and Finx. I got myself a great new bike 


Congratulations on your new bike VIRUS. Roadmachine is just such a great bike. You will not be disappointed.


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## tnicoluci

Just wanted to show up my RM 01 I just built from scratch with my desired parts. Very happy with result and quality of the ride.
Never imagined I would have a blue bike but when I set my eyes on this frameset on sale I pictured it with everything else black and I started falling for it...
Loved it!

It is hitting 7.5kg, which is not bad for a disc brake set and aero wheelset.
Still, any chance to make it lighter without breaking the bank?

It does feel a little heavier and slower in acceleration if compared to my previous bike, but it is not a fair comparison as it was a Cannondale Supersix Evo Hi-Mod with rim brakes and very light Mavic R-Sys SLR wheels (6.5kg with powermeter and everything).

But the BMC is surely more comfortable and faster on flats and descents - I think the wheels make the biggest difference here.


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## bodyelectric

So, here you go - Roadmachine 2.0









The design of the bottom bracket area has clearly changed quite significantly in order to deal w/ the UCI approval issue









Not so wrong, after all ...


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## Finx

The fork design changed also. I had a serious vibration in the front fork on my original RM-01 under heavy braking. Hopefully they have remedied this. It was pretty scary.


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## Leeroy996

Finx said:


> The fork design changed also. I had a serious vibration in the front fork on my original RM-01 under heavy braking. Hopefully they have remedied this. It was pretty scary.


Has the front end geometry changed? I found the roadmachine had too much rake & trail making cornering unpredictable. The bike would always run wide, giving a feeling the front wheel could wash out at any time.
That was my main reason to sell the bike.


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## Finx

I didn't compare the geometry details. I sold my RM01 as well, but it was due to the fork vibration under heavy braking. I hadn't heard anyone else complaining about this (several in my riding group ride RM01s), so it may have been a problem unique to me (I'm a serious Clyde at 6' 5" and 230lbs). 

Bikerumor has details about the geometry, and the other changes as well.

https://bikerumor.com/2019/06/19/bm...with-ultimate-integration-for-endurance-road/


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## 9W9W

Finx said:


> I didn't compare the geometry details. I sold my RM01 as well, but it was due to the fork vibration under heavy braking. I hadn't heard anyone else complaining about this (several in my riding group ride RM01s), so it may have been a problem unique to me (I'm a serious Clyde at 6' 5" and 230lbs).
> 
> Bikerumor has details about the geometry, and the other changes as well.
> 
> https://bikerumor.com/2019/06/19/bm...with-ultimate-integration-for-endurance-road/


I thought I read somewhere that they did in fact change something about the fork blades? 

The only other thing I could think of is warped rotor, or if your fit is somehow in the extreme then weight distribution.


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## Finx

9W9W said:


> I thought I read somewhere that they did in fact change something about the fork blades?
> 
> The only other thing I could think of is warped rotor, or if your fit is somehow in the extreme then weight distribution.


The article I linked details the changes to the fork. Thinner, stiffer blades, and asymmetrical design. I have no idea if this was to address the problem I had or not.

My problem was definitely not a warped rotor, as it persisted throughout the life of the bike, across multiple rotor changes (and even switching from 140 to 160 and back).

It was very scary pulsing sort of thing where the front brake would grab and flex the fork to the aft, then release, and repeat (sort of a fast fluttering feel). I got worse (more exaggerated) the longer I applied braking pressure, and didn't stop until I released the front brake lever. 

I even had the shop swap a fork out to a spare they had, and the problem still persisted.


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## 9W9W

Finx said:


> The article I linked details the changes to the fork. Thinner, stiffer blades, and asymmetrical design. I have no idea if this was to address the problem I had or not.
> 
> My problem was definitely not a warped rotor, as it persisted throughout the life of the bike, across multiple rotor changes (and even switching from 140 to 160 and back).
> 
> It was very scary pulsing sort of thing where the front brake would grab and flex the fork to the aft, then release, and repeat (sort of a fast fluttering feel). I got worse (more exaggerated) the longer I applied braking pressure, and didn't stop until I released the front brake lever.
> 
> I even had the shop swap a fork out to a spare they had, and the problem still persisted.


I am riding on a '14 TeamMachine with a big ol gouge in the carbon (chainstay) from chain suck. I'm around your weight and have been beating the blank out of the bike for years now. To me it's been bulletproof, however your experience appears demonstrably different. Bullsh!t on BMC's part for releasing a bike and then "surprise!" a year later revamping everything, these toys are not exactly cheap. Have you reached out to BMC to address? I'd be curious of their response as I am thinking of purchasing another BMC in the future. 

Also, I realize they are not as big as some other manufacturers and some portions of the manufacturing process are proprietary, but them releasing all frames with the same STA/HTA geometries is another thing where I am also kind of like "really?".


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## Finx

9W9W said:


> I am riding on a '14 TeamMachine with a big ol gouge in the carbon (chainstay) from chain suck. I'm around your weight and have been beating the blank out of the bike for years now. To me it's been bulletproof, however your experience appears demonstrably different. Bullsh!t on BMC's part for releasing a bike and then "surprise!" a year later revamping everything, these toys are not exactly cheap. Have you reached out to BMC to address? I'd be curious of their response as I am thinking of purchasing another BMC in the future.
> 
> Also, I realize they are not as big as some other manufacturers and some portions of the manufacturing process are proprietary, but them releasing all frames with the same STA/HTA geometries is another thing where I am also kind of like "really?".


I could easily reproduce the issue, and went for a ride with the BMC Rep when he was visiting the shop.

He stated he had never seen or heard of this specific problem. It was his suggestion to try a different (new) fork. When we did that and the problem persisted, so he offered by a frame swap, but acknowledged it wouldn't likely resolve the issue. At that point I just decided to move on. I didn't love the 'feel' of the bike anyway. I been riding a Canyon Endurace since I sold my RM-01 and absolutely love the ride and feel. It's perfect for me.

As far as them coming out with a new model, it's just part of the business. The design is 4 years old now, and the old design was determined to be non-UCI compliant (see a few posts above), so it was no secret the bike would either see a complete overhaul or replacement. Who knows, now maybe we'll see Team Dimension Data riding them on the cobbles next year? 

FYI, they also have two other non-race bikes coming out for the gravel/adventure market (to compliment the existing RoadMachine X until it is phased out). 

Regarding the question about the fork trail and rake. I just did a quick check of the geometry charts, and the new 2020 bike has the same rake and trail as the 2017 Roadmachine (at least if the charts are correct).

Edit: Don't misunderstand. I still love BMC as a brand. I think they do a lot of things right. Some of the cockpit integration stuff is a bit over the top on the high end models, which affects the ability to travel with the bike, but they have lower range models with standard cockpits for that stuff. I do really love the overall engineering and design that goes into them. They aren't making cookie cutter bikes that look just like everyone elses. My first 'nice' carbon bike was a 2014 GranFondo GF-01, and it will forever be my favorite bike (unfortunately I broke the top tube in a nasty incident involving a garage door being closed on it ).


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## Leeroy996

Finx said:


> I didn't compare the geometry details. I sold my RM01 as well, but it was due to the fork vibration under heavy braking. I hadn't heard anyone else complaining about this (several in my riding group ride RM01s), so it may have been a problem unique to me (I'm a serious Clyde at 6' 5" and 230lbs).


A friend bought almost the identical bike. He's on the 54cm, I had the 56cm. I never mentioned the cornering characteristics to him but I noticed when i got a new bike he tried to follow my speed around a corner and went off the road. He can't keep the same line on any corner. Not very scientific but I had no confidence with the front end, he doesn't seem to either. I gave the bike a good try with 8,000 miles.
There was also a recall on my timemachine forks. Little design errors.


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## Finx

Leeroy996 said:


> A friend bought almost the identical bike. He's on the 54cm, I had the 56cm. I never mentioned the cornering characteristics to him but I noticed when i got a new bike he tried to follow my speed around a corner and went off the road. He can't keep the same line on any corner. Not very scientific but I had no confidence with the front end, he doesn't seem to either. I gave the bike a good try with 8,000 miles.
> There was also a recall on my timemachine forks. Little design errors.


I never had any problem descending on mine. In fact almost all of my strava KOM's are descents on that bike. My problem occurred when hard braking to a stop, the brake would catch and cause the fork to shudder front to back until I released it (or stopped completely).


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## Leeroy996

Finx said:


> I never had any problem descending on mine. In fact almost all of my strava KOM's are descents on that bike. My problem occurred when hard braking to a stop, the brake would catch and cause the fork to shudder front to back until I released it (or stopped completely).


Not the same issue but I had a lot of trouble getting the front caliper positioned to prevent drag. The front fork with insert wasn't manufactured quite right, making lining up the caliper difficult. I had to dremel the parts a little. It was never right though and touched easily with lateral flex off the saddle. Something wasn't right down there.


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## Finx

Leeroy996 said:


> Not the same issue but I had a lot of trouble getting the front caliper positioned to prevent drag. The front fork with insert wasn't manufactured quite right, making lining up the caliper difficult. I had to dremel the parts a little. It was never right though and touched easily with lateral flex off the saddle. Something wasn't right down there.


I remember struggling with the front caliper as well. I was able to get it lined up, but ended up using a couple of shim/spacers from McMaster-Carr to get the rotor centered in the caliper...


Here is the thread discussing it. There were two of us with road machines who used this solution.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/w...igning-disc-brake-rotors-calipers-360342.html


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## kepena

Will a 2018 rm01 ics fork be retrofitted on a 2019 rm02?? I had a good deal with my lbs for a rm02 three (free upgrade to di2) and planning to buy a 2018 rm01 fork to keep everything neat as i did save a £££


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## GeorgeHotopan

Rasto said:


> gurk700, the instruction manual says: "The rear brake hydraulic housingwill pass UNDER the bottombracket"
> As far as I remember, I didn't have any problem with routing the brake hose.



Dear all,

I am the owner of a BMC RM 2 Two and I plan to replace the hydraulic housing. The front brake guide is straightforward but the rear I saw on BMC page that it has a foam part on the downtube. I plan to replace the existing housing and shifters with a Duraace set, which comes already filled and connected to the caliper. Based on this I plan to guide the rear brake housing starting at the rear end of the bike towards the BB and then up the downtube. However I saw that there is a foam used over the housing on the downtube part. Should the foam be inserted when the housing gets to the BB part? e.g. slide it in and the re-enter with the housing up the downtube to the exit hole near the steerer? From what I know to do this whole rear brake housing routing I need to take out the existing Shimano pressfit BB. Correct?

Any tips on easiest and best way to do this action would be highly appreciated.

Cheers,

George.


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## OldGuy99

Hi. Anyone know what the max tire width for a 2019 Roadmachine? It comes with 28s but I would like to run at 32s.


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## rudge66

OldGuy99 said:


> Hi. Anyone know what the max tire width for a 2019 Roadmachine? It comes with 28s but I would like to run at 32s.


Yes you can do that on that bike. Would be interested in your ride opinions after the change.


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## OldGuy99

I decided to stick with 28s but will try tubeless. The Conti 5ks have comments about running a bit large and 32 is too skinny for gravel which is what I was thinking about. Thanks.


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