# Hitch Mount Rack Reccommendations



## bikerboy337 (Jan 28, 2004)

So we've just got a new car and it has a trailer hitch in the back.. wondering which racks people like, and what they dont like... its a 1 1/4" hitch... 

thanks for any input


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## ronb (Dec 16, 2005)

Check out Hollywood. I forget the model I've got but it is a fork mount rack for 2 bikes (you take the front wheel off) and I am well pleased with it. Saris has some good looking hitch mounted racks as well but I don't have an opinion on their functionality.


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## gtran1502 (Aug 20, 2008)

I have a swagman (1 and 1/4 hitch as well). I like it, but kind of wish I spent more and got the Yakima since it doesn't touch the frame at all and comes with a hitch pin cable lock that can secure the bike. 

GT


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

I have the Thule 916 T2 on a 2" hitch and love it . I drive a Honda CR-V and it is good for 2 bikes. Our Mercury villager can handle the2 bike extension for 4 bikes. Shopping around for it at best will save you $50.00 + Tax and Shipping. I got mine for $349.00 delivered.


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

rward325 said:


> I have the Thule 916 T2 on a 2" hitch and love it . I drive a Honda CR-V and it is good for 2 bikes. Our Mercury villager can handle the2 bike extension for 4 bikes. Shopping around for it at best will save you $50.00 + Tax and Shipping. I got mine for $349.00 delivered.


These come in 2" or 1 1/4" models. Mine is great. Handles my carbon fiber road bikes and fat tire mtn bikes with equal ease. Folds up to stay out of the way when not hauling bikes, and folds down to stay out of way of the tailgate. And, as noted, deals can be found.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

Get one that supports the bike by the wheels, not the frame.

Two options are the Hollywood Pro Rider @ ~$175. I have this one and do not mind removing the front wheel. (I am sure this is the one ronb has as well)

The Saris CycleOn is another one. It allows the front wheel to remain on. However it is about twice the price of the Hollywood.


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## Wheelman55 (Jul 10, 2009)

Yakima...Double Down or Holdup.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

What Blue Cheese Head Said...
Anything that holds your bikes from the tires, to prevent damage to your frame. Saris is my favorite.


http://www.saris.com/p-298-thelma-2-bike.aspx


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

Wheelman55 said:


> Yakima...Double Down or Holdup.


Although Yakima makes a good product, the Thule seems to be the winner for this design. There is one seller on-line that has videos of the Yak, Thule and Saris. After watching this, I decided on the Thule. Didn't save the link, sorry.


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## tomk96 (Sep 24, 2007)

i like our saris cycle-on. not cheap, but i like it.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

I installed a Curt class 1 hitch (same as yours) on my Subaru Impreza. I picked up a Thule T2 hitch rack. I really like it. It's super easy to use and I basically just leave it on my car all summer. It's a little bulky and heavy when off the car but oh well.

Putting 2 bikes on is a breeze.. I use 10 foot cables with locks and thread them through the wheels and frames for extra security. Never had any trouble with this system.

Sure it's a bit more expensive than some other racks but it works well!


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## Plum (Mar 27, 2005)

Another vote for the Thule T2. I've got the 2", 4 bike version and it's pretty sweet. The best thing about it is the ability to move the bike trays relative to each other to avoid bar/saddle conflicts..

I've seen the yakima model for about 15 minutes, long enough to get out of the box, assemble, figure out it didn't work for similar sized bikes and there was no way to adjust. It was returned.

I've also used a Saris hitch rack and wasn't that impressed with the construction. The front wheel hold down arm was flimsy, and the plastic rear wheel doughnut wasn't really confidence inspring either.

Get the Thule and be done with it.

Plum


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## ksteinhoff (Jan 7, 2009)

bikerboy337 said:


> So we've just got a new car and it has a trailer hitch in the back.. wondering which racks people like, and what they dont like... its a 1 1/4" hitch...
> 
> thanks for any input


Here's a review I did on bike racks I've used. Bottom Line: I like the Yakima Kingpin series.

Keep in mind with any rack, when they say that hold X bikes, make that X - 1, just like a two-man tent will hold two men only if they are friendlier than most Southern states allow.

My four-placer would hold three; my five-placer will hold four. Even that's jamming them pretty tight.

If the mount you want is only available as a 2" hitch, you have two options: buy and adapter or weld a 2" receiver on your 1-1/4" receiver. My kid knew he'd never haul anything heavy enough to worry about load limits, so he chose option 2 for his Honda CRC.

Is the Kingpin the "best?" I won't go that far, but it's good enough for me and my two kids.


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

ksteinhoff said:


> Here's a review I did on bike racks I've used. Bottom Line: I like the Yakima Kingpin series..


Hanger racks work for inexpensive bikes that you don't mind rattling around. Tray mount racks ftw.

I have a top of the line Yakima hanger mount rack sitting in my garage, currently unused.


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## lancezneighbor (May 4, 2002)

The Thule T2 is hands the best rack. It was originally designed by Sportsworks, they are the ones who make the racks you may see on the front of buses. Sportsworks was a design competition in Seattle. The rack had to be fast and easy so that it could be used on buses. Thule bought the consumer division and made it even more user friendly. Other than cost the T2 wins in every category.


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## poff (Jul 21, 2007)

The (by far) best rack available is made by Kuat. You should choose between NV and Sherpa (only 27 lbs for 2 bike rack). These are not cheap ($400) but really GREAT.

http://www.kuatinnovations.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=35&Itemid=50


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

Thule T2.


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## calle_betis (Jun 30, 2006)

The Thule T2 was originally designed by Sportwerks, IIRC. It's built to last and last. Highly recommended.


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## MJCBH (Nov 25, 2002)

*Quick review on a few....*

Here's my experience with the following three, all good in their own way. 

1 -Yakima Kingpin 4 -- 
-- carries 3 bikes comfortably (4 bikes can be a bit tricky but can be done)
-- Lighweight and fairly easy to mount bikes
-- Holds bikes fairly stable but unfortunately holds biks by frame which has scratched some frames

Following ones hold bike by tires:

2. Yakima Hold-up
-- Quick mounting and stable - the best quickest, easiest mounting of the 3 racks
-- TOO DANG HEAVY and awkward to mount to car --- i'm a 5'5 female weak-ling and ended up returning the rack because I seemed to wrench my back every time I tried to put it on my car

3. 1-up Hitch Rack (the model just before the Quick-rack)
-- Lighter weight than Yakima Hold-up and folds up for much better storage than Hold-up
-- Stainless steel doesn't rust
-- Arms attach to bike by turning little knob things which are more of a pain than the Hold-up which was much quicker and easier to mount (the newer 1-up quick rack is supposed to be easier in this regards)
-- Pricey!!


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## fazzman (Mar 12, 2008)

I like my Thule T2.


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## foofighter (Dec 19, 2008)

I currently have the hold up. 

Pros:
built solid, the tire trays for the front tires are cast metal and is really SOLID. the front tire arm secures very firm, when you fold it up it's got a pretty close profile. 

Cons:
there's no quick release to fold down the tray, you have this rod w/ a cotter pin, if you're distracted you forget to put the rod back in forget to put the cotter pin on and drive off and realize you forgot to put the rod in .5 mile away from home. Luckily I found the cotter pin in my neighborhood. The Thule is pretty cool because it's got the spring loaded rod and it hyper extends so you can open up the rear hatch/tailgate. I just dont like Thule's design it's too FUNCTION before form. The SARIS is definitely form follows function. I need to see Yakima's replacement Hold Up to see if they have that spring loaded pin...i wish there was a way to retro fit something to do that so i can avoid what happened to me again.


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

I have to say that the Kuat looks a lot like the Thule T2. Uses the same type locking mechanism and tire trays. The functionality looks to be similar so I could see using this. I have grown really accustomed to my T2 though. Now that I have been using the T2 for awhile I like it even more. I bought the core locks for the arms also and feel more secure.


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## poff (Jul 21, 2007)

Kuat is more than half the weight of T2, has better folding mechanism, and comes with the cables and locks built in.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

calle_betis said:


> The Thule T2 was originally designed by Sportwerks, IIRC. It's built to last and last. Highly recommended.


Yep. I personally don't own one, but a buddy had the original Sportwerks and it was perfect. Durable as hell, too. So the T2 would be the one I'd get if I was in the market.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Generally, I'm a fan of wheel-mount racks. Challenge: I need to have free access to the rear liftgate to let the doggies in and out, and they create problems in that regard. 

If that's your situation, consider the Softride racks. They move away from the tailgate in a way that keeps the bikes upright, and moves them well away. They also have excellent pads and braces to hold the bikes from rattling one another, and don't seem to scratch the frames, either. A quick bungee to keep the front wheels from flopping about, and all's good.

If that's not a problem and you want a 'tray' style, their Versa model works well.


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

ksteinhoff said:


> Keep in mind with any rack, when they say that hold X bikes, make that X - 1


Don't have that problem with the tray style, like the Thule T2.

If you want the best, in my opinion, go with the Thule T2. Others will suffice, but the T2 is by far the easiest to use. It holds the bikes more securely than just about every other rack, as well. The only issue is you need to use a cable lock if you'll be leaving the bikes on your vehicle - the bikes can easily be removed if you only use the locks in the arms.

I leave my T2 on my Jeep, and it does just fine in all weather.

Thule is also great with the customer support and warranty. One of the ratchet mechanisms on the rear wheel holder broke off, and they sent me a new holder w/strap free.


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## Robbie59 (Apr 12, 2006)

I use the hollywood pro-rider II. No complaints.


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## RomeoTango (May 31, 2008)

How about for pickups with a trailer hitch? I have a hitch and a tonneau cover over the bed. Guess I could go either way. With the rail that lies around the top edge of the bed I will need to find an in-bed rack with a thin top flange (that lays on the edge of the bed) that I could slip under the tonneau mounting rail. Any recommendations?


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

I didn't want to start a new thread and this seems like a good place to ask:

I've got my hitch rack purchase narrowed down to two popular choices: Saris Cycle-On and Thule T2.

I prefer the Thule T2 in almost every way, except one: It seems that the front wheel arm will contact my fork and or brake caliper. This is the only place where I see that the Saris Cycle-On has an advantage with it's locked arm. 

*Question: how big of a deal is this? * My bike is a Cervelo RS with 3T fork. How bad is the contact with the brake caliper? 

Also, some have said that you can actually clamp it down with the arm a few inches from the caliper so that it doesn't contact. Any luck with this method?

Thanks,


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

I use the T2 on both of my Look bikes and my Wife's Specialized Roubaix without any problems. you want to lock the arm prior to the caliper to hold the wheel securely in place. The arm is well padded at the top also. The arm itself does not contact any part of the bike.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

*But does your rack have...*

A built-in bottle opener???


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## Gov (May 14, 2010)

every rack that has a flat surface has a built in bottle opener  

btw-- i second that softride rack. swing away access to the truck tailgate with the bikes still intact is money. couldn't be happier with mine.


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## somno (May 3, 2009)

I have a 2009 Cervelo RS and often take it and my friend's Roubaix (expert or S-Works) on the Thule T2 and have absolutely no problems. The other racks may be just as good but I love my T2 and would buy another if something happened to this one (like a crash as it is otherwise bullet proof).


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

natedg200202 said:


> *Question: how big of a deal is this? * My bike is a Cervelo RS with 3T fork. How bad is the contact with the brake caliper?


Since my earlier replies my wife and I bought a T2. It hits the calipers on ours, but no big deal IMO.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

It's impossible to say without knowing what the new car is, and how many bikes the rack needs to hold.

Sadly, I just found out that with my Class 1 hitch (which is the best you can get on a surprising number of sedans and small cars), you can't get a "hold by the wheel" rack that holds 4 bikes. The Saris Thelma holds 3, all the others I know of only hold 2. Most of the "hold by the wheel" racks don't come with an extension for more than 2 bikes in the 1.25" version (the size that's available for any vehicle that wasn't actually designed to tow stuff). The Saris Cycle-On rack would technically have the extension available (extension is the same for both 1.25" and 2" hitches), but they very strongly cautioned me that that was NOT recommended.

If you're only hauling 2 bikes, it's a lot less of a problem.

*sigh*


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

look for tray style racks only. you do not want to hang your bike by the frame. bikes were not made to have their weight hung by the top tubes. It also scratches up your frame no matter how much care you put into mounting the bike.

If you're poor like me: Sportrack XC2 2-bike tray + hitch lock + integrated bike lock = ~$150-175

If you're looking for a good rack: Saris Thelma 3-bike. Just checked this out online and it looks VERY Promising for $300.

If you're rich: Yakima or Thule (although i've heard of some shady business practices by Thule)


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## fireball05 (Apr 14, 2010)

Another vote for the Thule T2. It is a good bit easier to use than the Saris. It is way better than the Yak. 

You can secure the arm a few inches away from the front brakes so that the padded arm is only touching the tire. I also have the core locks on mine and while probably not as effective as a cable lock it gives some security and peace of mind.


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## hotfeat1227 (Jul 13, 2009)

+1 for the T2. Its an awesome rack.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

A quick side note about the Thule T2..

It's big and heavy. You need a decent amount of space to store it through the winter.. Also.. Since the trays are rather large you might obscure your tail lights a little. 

I have mine adjusted so both tail lights are perfectly visible when it's folded up. I leave my rack on all summer with no issues.


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## Geoffersonspin (Feb 12, 2010)

There is a lot of love for the Thule T2 in this thread and I can't personally comment on it since I have never used it. I'm sure it is a fantastic rack as everyone has claimed.

I will just throw my hat in for the Saris Thelma, which I do have and have extensive experience with. This rack has worked great for us and has transported our bikes on interstates on trips and has had no problems. It holds the bikes securely and contacts nothing but the wheels. I feel very secure putting my bike on this rack and going anywhere with it. 

So yeah, it's another good option as an alternative to the Thule T2.


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## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

skyliner1004 said:


> look for tray style racks only. you do not want to hang your bike by the frame. bikes were not made to have their weight hung by the top tubes. )



Is this a joke? Are you really trying to suggest that bike frames aren't designed to handle the stress of hanging by the TT (either for transport or in storage)?


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

JayTee said:


> Is this a joke? Are you really trying to suggest that bike frames aren't designed to handle the stress of hanging by the TT (either for transport or in storage)?


yes i know i wouldnt want to hang my $3k carbon fiber frame by the top tube going 80mph and hitting numerous bumps on the road. 

storage? maybe if the arms were heavily padded and i loaded and unloaded the rack gently and didn't allow anyone else to touch it. 

so the answer to your questions are: no, and yes for my bikes.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

Bike are designed to have the most stress transmitted to and from the wheels.. makes sense to transport them that way.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> Bike are designed to have the most stress transmitted to and from the wheels.. makes sense to transport them that way.


I'm not so sure about that.

I've been thinking about this lately, while trying to decide what kind of rack to get.

For starters, wheels are designed to support the bike while pressure is coming down on them from the rider sitting on top of the bike. That's not the same as the side-ways force you get on the wheel while it's on a rack behind a car. Obviously it still works, but when we're talking about what "it's designed to do" I'm not sure the wheel thing is in the "designed to be held this way" category.

And I've been thinking about it, and I'm not sure that it wouldn't be better to risk my frame cracking than it would to risk my front wheel breaking. I've actually had a frame break on me while I was riding it - it was a mid 70's or 80's Schwinn, steel frame I think, I was riding along and suddenly it started making this horrendous cracking sound. I stopped (note that I was able to come to a regular stop without injury), took a look, couldn't see anything. Got back on, rode a little - still making the noise. Scary. Took another look - turns out the weld at the bottom bracket had separated! I don't know if the frame had rusted out, or if the weld was just mediocre and had finally came apart. But that frame was toast. Had to walk it home. Well - ok, I got really bored walking so I sorta coasted home on it.

Point is - frame broke, was busted but no physical injury or even a "close call" with physical injury.

On the other hand - I was biking one day over a year ago, trying out my new rain gear in the rain (wasn't even raining very hard). Came up to the top of the hill on the road (and thus wasn't going very fast), went to get onto the bike path via the end of someone's driveway that has that slight lip on it, hit it at an off-angle - and *BAM* suddenly I was down on the ground, my elbow all skinned up and bleeding (was surprised I didn't get a hole in my new, expensive rain gear). I had no time to react, could have broken something, and I still have a scar from that over a year later.

Point is - front wheel lost traction, and I was screwed. Got bloody and a scar, could have broken an arm or something if I had been unlucky.

So I'm sitting here asking myself - do I prefer to put unusual stress on the top tube of the bike, or do I want to put it on the wheel and fork?

So let me ask you - you just drove for 4 hours in high winds with your bike behind your car on the rack. Which would you rather risk - your toptup breaking, or your front wheel braking?

Just something I've been thinking about.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

i'd rather risk my front wheel breaking even though that is SLIM TO NONE when we're referring to bikes loaded on a bike rack. My front wheel will cost $250, my frame will cost $1000. I cannot control what kind of damage to my body i'll get when either one breaks so i'll have to assume the same outcome. hence, i choose the wheel. 

Even if there isn't much stress hanging your 20lb carbon fiber road bike by the top tube for 4 hours. Why get unnecessary scratches on your paint? Wheels and tires dont get scratched up by plastic and rubber straps.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

skyliner1004 said:


> i'd rather risk my front wheel breaking even though that is SLIM TO NONE when we're referring to bikes loaded on a bike rack. My front wheel will cost $250, my frame will cost $1000. I cannot control what kind of damage to my body i'll get when either one breaks so i'll have to assume the same outcome. hence, i choose the wheel.
> 
> Even if there isn't much stress hanging your 20lb carbon fiber road bike by the top tube for 4 hours. Why get unnecessary scratches on your paint? Wheels and tires dont get scratched up by plastic and rubber straps.


For one thing, hold-by the wheel racks cost way more - a 4 bike hitch mounted frame rack costs $250 retail, and that's a decent one from Saris. Their wheel version that holds 4 bikes costs...let's see, I think it's $430 for the 2 bike version, and like another $250 for the 2 bike extension, so somewhere around $680? Plus the cost of hitch installation - just had one installed, $180 or so. If you went with a roof rack, they're like $1,000 once you bike the rack and all the attachments, feet, etc that you need. A lot of people could buy an entire second bike for that kind of money.

But the real reason I've been thinking about it that, sadly, it turns out that my dad was right - somehow, you do actually NEED a larger vehicle haul 4 bikes. :-( :-( My car holds 4 people, seemed like 4 bikes wouldn't be a problem. But you can't - with a wheel-holding rack, at least. :-( My Prius (and most small cars and many sedans) only takes a 1.25" Class 1 hitch with a 200 pound tongue weight. The Thule T2 and Yakima racks won't even let you put the 2 bike extension on the 1.25" hitch version. The Saris rack will technically do it, but when I contact Saris they STRONGLY advised me that they did not recommend it, and I shouldn't do it. The rack itself is to heavy - it's like 60 pounds for the 2 bike rack, and another 60 pounds for the extension, so 120 before you put any bikes on it. And then there's something funny with putting weight on the end of a lever that means that 60 pounds far out behind the car counts as way more than 60 pounds sitting directly on the hitch.

So now I have several options which I didn't think I would have to pick between -
1. Use a frame-grabbing hitch rack, which evidentally will hold 4 bikes just fine.
2. Get the 2 bike wheel-holding rack, plus spend even more money on an expensive roof rack for the 2 extra bikes.
3. A Saris Thelma rack will fit, holds 3 bikes.

So yeah, my problem is that there is no 4 bike, wheel-holding rack that will fit my car, even if I'm willing to spend twice as much money on one of those racks vs the frame-holding one.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

skyliner1004 said:


> i'd rather risk my front wheel breaking even though that is SLIM TO NONE when we're referring to bikes loaded on a bike rack. My front wheel will cost $250, my frame will cost $1000. *I cannot control what kind of damage to my body i'll get when either one breaks so i'll have to assume the same outcome*. hence, i choose the wheel.
> 
> Even if there isn't much stress hanging your 20lb carbon fiber road bike by the top tube for 4 hours. Why get unnecessary scratches on your paint? Wheels and tires dont get scratched up by plastic and rubber straps.


...though my point was that maybe assuming the damage would be equal whether the wheel breaks or the frame breaks isn't true. Maybe a frame break would have a dramatically lower chance of injury than a wheel break (at least if it's the front wheel).


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

PaulRivers said:


> ...though my point was that maybe assuming the damage would be equal whether the wheel breaks or the frame breaks isn't true. Maybe a frame break would have a dramatically lower chance of injury than a wheel break (at least if it's the front wheel).


the frame breaking and the front wheel breaking served YOU different degrees of injury. it won't be for everyone else. 

maybe this maybe that, but no one can tell which will cause THEM more pain: a frame break or a wheel break. Since both are unknown chances, i'd chose the wheel break because its cheaper to replace.


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## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

Well, just because you've developed a personal phobia about it for yourself doesn't mean you need to go perpetuating paranoid mythology on this board.

Just what kinds of forces do you think your bike withstands when a 150 lb person is RIDING it and hits a pothole at speed? If you think jostling a 15 lb. bike secured by the the top tube on a quality bike rack is structurally hazardous you are simply misinformed. Even in the days of paper-thin oversized al top tubes (think mid-90s Cannondales and Kleins) there was not an issue.


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

skyliner1004 said:


> look for tray style racks only. you do not want to hang your bike by the frame. bikes were not made to have their weight hung by the top tubes. It also scratches up your frame no matter how much care you put into mounting the bike.


ok, the hurting the bike part is nonsense. It won't hurt your bike to hang it by the top tube. But you can scratch the paint. Or the tinting on the back window, like what happened to my Jeep when the end of the handlebars was bumping up against it. Not really that big a deal, and avoidable if you're careful: clear frame stickers on the bike and/or carefully placed old socks.

I recommend tray styles because they are easier to use. And apparently safer for the user, at least in my case. My wife used bungee cords to hold the bikes on her rack, and when I went to get the bikes off, I accidentally let go of the cord, and it snapped and hit me hard in the face just below my left eye. If it had hit me in the eye, I doubt I would be seeing out of it anymore. SO NO BUNGEES!!! Those whose fingers don't fumble as easily as mine can ignore me on this.

But mainly, the tray style, if you can swing the price, is just a lot easier to use, and so I prefer them. Still loving my T2 and after the incident the other day I will be putting a hitch and a T2 on my wife's car or a roof rack with Sidearms. Haven't decided which, yet.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

your opinions on hanging the bike by the top tube not causing the frame any damage has been taken. But i still won't do it because i like my paint and i like my clear coat. 

I'm still favoring the Saris Thelma 3-Bike for these reasons:
-$250-300 shipped is cheaper than thule/yakima similar styles
-holds 3 bikes vs 2
-no brake caliper rubbing problems, no arms to swing
-lifetime warranty (does thule/yak have this?)


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

skyliner1004 said:


> the frame breaking and the front wheel breaking served YOU different degrees of injury. it won't be for everyone else.
> 
> maybe this maybe that, but no one can tell which will cause THEM more pain: a frame break or a wheel break. Since both are unknown chances, i'd chose the wheel break because its cheaper to replace.


For winter biking, the front tire is the most important of the two tires. If you lose traction on the front tire, you go down faster than you can react to even move. Same effect if the front tire or front fork broke.

If you lose traction on the rear tire, you usually have enough time to put a foot down or something before the whole bike goes down.

If the frame broke on the top tube while you're riding along in a straight line, the frame is still held together at the bottom bracket. I don't think my experience was a coincidence - I think you'd be way worse off losing the front wheel than you would be if the top tube broke.

-------------------------------------------------

My point is that holding the bike by the top tube maybe isn't automatically worse than holding it by wheel for safety reasons.

A wheel holding rack is better because of it's ease of getting the bikes on and off it, better for hauling mountain bikes (no need for an adapter bar), easier on the paint job of the bikes, etc.

Just not certain it's safer from a safety perspective.

I would totally get one if it fit my car because they're way easier to work with, though. :-D


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

skyliner1004 said:


> your opinions on hanging the bike by the top tube not causing the frame any damage has been taken. But i still won't do it because i like my paint and i like my clear coat.
> 
> I'm still favoring the Saris Thelma 3-Bike for these reasons:
> -$250-300 shipped is cheaper than thule/yakima similar styles
> ...


What kind of bikes are you going to be hauling?

I noticed there were a lot of Thelma's on sale, and that there seemed to be a new version, so I asked Saris about it. They said the new version holds 29er mountain bikes, while the old version couldn't do it. The new version is more expensive though. :-(

Just fyi!


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## fireball05 (Apr 14, 2010)

I'd never hang my bike by the TT on one of those racks. Just too much chance of the frame getting scratched up, the wheels moving around and getting damaged or damaging the car, etc. Tray racks only for me.

Why do you need a 4 bike rack? If you've got a small car, a rack that only holds 2 bikes is a good excuse to get you out of driving! Make one of your buddies with a bigger car/rack drive...

Honestly though, I think the Thelma 3 might be a good choice for you. I love my T2 and prefer it slightly to my buddy's Saris Cycleon Pro, but if I needed to haul more bikes, the Thelma 3 would probably be the ticket.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

fireball05 said:


> I'd never hang my bike by the TT on one of those racks. Just too much chance of the frame getting scratched up, the wheels moving around and getting damaged or damaging the car, etc. Tray racks only for me.
> 
> Why do you need a 4 bike rack? If you've got a small car, a rack that only holds 2 bikes is a good excuse to get you out of driving! Make one of your buddies with a bigger car/rack drive...
> 
> Honestly though, I think the Thelma 3 might be a good choice for you. I love my T2 and prefer it slightly to my buddy's Saris Cycleon Pro, but if I needed to haul more bikes, the Thelma 3 would probably be the ticket.


Other than aesthetic scratches, I still think it might be silly.

I need a 4 bike rack because often my buddies are the "sorta into biking" type that don't have their own rack! They own bikes, but if I want to bring more than 2 people to the same place (which is often required) it usually requires me to have the rack.

I have to admit, it's a pretty amusing idea though. :-D


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

PaulRivers said:


> What kind of bikes are you going to be hauling?
> 
> I noticed there were a lot of Thelma's on sale, and that there seemed to be a new version, so I asked Saris about it. They said the new version holds 29er mountain bikes, while the old version couldn't do it. The new version is more expensive though. :-(
> 
> Just fyi!


so far i have 2x 700c bikes + a 26" mtb w/ big knobbies. unsure of what my future holds but a 29er with big knobbies wouldn't be a surprise. i see the Saris Thelma 3-Bike rack on Amazon for 2 different prices: $277 shipped & $340 shipped

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Thelma-..._2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1276134885&sr=8-2
This link says the Hitch is "universal". I thought Saris made individual models for 1 1/4" and for 2"?
$277

http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Thelma-..._5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1276135097&sr=1-5
$340 shipped
has the individual hitch size options to select

Whats the difference and is one of these the 2009 model?


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

skyliner1004 said:


> so far i have 2x 700c bikes + a 26" mtb w/ big knobbies. unsure of what my future holds but a 29er with big knobbies wouldn't be a surprise. i see the Saris Thelma 3-Bike rack on Amazon for 2 different prices: $277 shipped & $340 shipped
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Thelma-..._2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1276134885&sr=8-2
> This link says the Hitch is "universal". I thought Saris made individual models for 1 1/4" and for 2"?
> ...


I'm lazy - take a look at the 2010 Selma Page, watch the video "Updates to the Thelma for 2010" and it should answer all your questions. 

Per the page (though it's hidden a little), Model #: 4239 is the 2010 model.

It's weird, a week or two ago when I searched for "saris thelma 4239" I had an option or two on amazon. This week - only the juvenile rack shows up with that search. But - when I search for the through google, I get an amazon.com result:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039SYOUC

And it specifically says "Item model number: 4239".

Hmm...


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> A quick side note about the Thule T2..
> 
> It's big and heavy. You need a decent amount of space to store it through the winter.. Also.. Since the trays are rather large you might obscure your tail lights a little.
> 
> I have mine adjusted so both tail lights are perfectly visible when it's folded up. I leave my rack on all summer with no issues.


I built a little hanger on the wall of the garage. I pull the T2 off the car, slide a piece of pipe through the parallelogram linkage, then lift it up and place the ends of the pipe into some shelf supports with hooks on the end. Not particularly easy, but it gets the thing out of the way. I'll post a pic later tonight.

I also had to cut through one of the plastic wheel trays so that it didn't hit my bumper when folded up.

As for taillights, mine are pretty large and are ok. However I am at some point going to add some red reflective tape on the rear and bottom surfaces of some of the main tubes.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

anyone here have a good way of locking the Saris Thelma rack down? I want to do these two things that aren't as simple as it sounds:

1. Lock the entire bike rack to my trailer hitch. I know Saris sells this: 








but that ONLY LOCKS the 1 1/4 or 2" receiver to the bike hitch. As you can tell by this picture, the rest of the main bike rack can be removed by taking out a single pin: 








This video confirms that the main body of the rack can be removed with just that pin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC008uHKIZI

2. I want to lock the bikes down to the car/bike rack to not be stolen when out of view. I know Saris sells a basic security cable: 








but where do i lock the bikes to on the bike rack?


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

While I'm interested in your answers, these questions you have about locking the rack might be best answered by Saris themselves. I've found them to be very responsive over email (most companies aren't), calling them might work just as well to.

Regarding locking your bikes, I believe there's a specific slot for that Saris-specific cable to hook into on the rack.

While a cable is more convenient, I try to keep in mind how easily cables are cut. Personally, I've been contemplating how I could lock them to the car with one of those chains. I would only put the chain on when the car was parked somewhere out of sight with the bikes on it, but I think I could get a 2nd lock for the chain, hook one end onto the hitch itself and the other end other through the bikes and lock it around the last bike.

I'm just thinking out loud here, still pondering it...I just keep thinking that I don't lock my bike outside a grocery store, I use a ulock, I'd like to have a similar level of security (nothin's perfect) while leaving my bike on the rack on the back of my car.


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## bikerboy337 (Jan 28, 2004)

*Saris Thelms*

i ended up picking up the selma 3 rack for my saab and its been great. as to the locking, i use the locking pin you describ below, and i dont know why you think you can remove the entire rack when its locked. the pin that you see simply allows you to fold the rack up and down, in order to remove the rack, you'd have to unscrew a punch of pieces to get it off, and i dont think its really possible when its locked... very difficult at least... so... get the locking pin and saris will also sell the security cable with a matching key so that you only need one key for each lock... but the thing has been very secure for me... as always, someone can always figure out a way to get a bike off of a rack, so i'd never leave it sitting on there, in the open, for very long... heck, i've had my thule roof rack ripped off my car before, so thiefs will find a way.. but i see it as being very secure and not easy at all to take off once locked...

my 2 cents





skyliner1004 said:


> anyone here have a good way of locking the Saris Thelma rack down? I want to do these two things that aren't as simple as it sounds:
> 
> 1. Lock the entire bike rack to my trailer hitch. I know Saris sells this:
> 
> ...


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

bikerboy337 said:


> i ended up picking up the selma 3 rack for my saab and its been great. as to the locking, i use the locking pin you describ below, and i dont know why you think you can remove the entire rack when its locked. the pin that you see simply allows you to fold the rack up and down, in order to remove the rack, you'd have to unscrew a punch of pieces to get it off, and i dont think its really possible when its locked... very difficult at least... so... get the locking pin and saris will also sell the security cable with a matching key so that you only need one key for each lock... but the thing has been very secure for me... as always, someone can always figure out a way to get a bike off of a rack, so i'd never leave it sitting on there, in the open, for very long... heck, i've had my thule roof rack ripped off my car before, so thiefs will find a way.. but i see it as being very secure and not easy at all to take off once locked...
> 
> my 2 cents


thanks now i can be more sure that the main body wont come off with just that 1 pin. The Hitch lock is good :thumbsup: 

Now, i'm trying to buy from orsracksdirect.com and can't seem to find the hitch and bike lock that is keyed alike. Some help pls


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## bikerboy337 (Jan 28, 2004)

i'd maybe email orrs (thats where i bought mine too) and see if they can do it for you... if not, saris can certainly do it... saris is great to work with, so shoot them an email and you can get the cable with the correct lock... but email orrs first, its definately not an option on-line, but they may be able to pair them for you.. i picked my locking cable up directly from saris and requested a matching lock to my hitch lock, and they did it no problem...





skyliner1004 said:


> thanks now i can be more sure that the main body wont come off with just that 1 pin. The Hitch lock is good :thumbsup:
> 
> Now, i'm trying to buy from orsracksdirect.com and can't seem to find the hitch and bike lock that is keyed alike. Some help pls


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

thule t2 on the way for me. Its arriving next week. Got it for $300 OTD, hows this price?


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

That is a great price! I was happy at $350 delivered last year.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

What's the word on the t2's hooking arm and pressure on the front brake caliper? It would definitely touch mine. What do u guys do?


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

It clamps on the wheel in front of the caliper. Position arm an inch or so in front of caliper, and push down hard. You need to get that last "click" to lock securely. Please note, that if the ratcheting mechanism is damp/wet, there may be some difficulty in locking the arm. You may need to wipe teeth off with a dry cloth to effect secure closure.

I've driven from NJ to MS and back with no problems carrying my mtn bike and Parlee with Reynolds Assaults.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

Whats the fix for this problem with the Thule T2?

http://vimeo.com/9898642

Thule T2 Bike Rack malfunctions on interstate causing injuries and destroyed mountain bike from Angie Hyndman on Vimeo.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

Simple fix for that problem... Wrap some heavy duct tape around the end post a few times and it'll never slide off.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

All of the people with T2's, what car do you drive? I'm worrying about it being too heavy with 2 mtb's installed hanging off the rear of my car. Weight will be about 120lbs off a class 1 hitch. Am i okay?


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> Simple fix for that problem... Wrap some heavy duct tape around the end post a few times and it'll never slide off.


First - Thanks for posting that info!

The one in the video may be an older model. My T2 is about a year old and I just went out and inspected it. The collar is tight and I was not able to budge it. The bolts securing the collar appear to have extra thread to further tighten the collar in the event the bracket bends, which I doubt will happen based on the thickness of the metal they've used. Also, on the underside of the end post, between the bracket and the plastic plug at the end, is a small Phillips head screw. Even if the brackets slides toward the end, the screw head would stop the bracket from sliding off entirely. Even still, I'm going to wrap a piece of contrasting color tape around the end post, flush with the bracket. That should 1) remind me to check tightness periodically and, 2) provide visual indication if the bracket is starting to creep towards the back.

Again, from looking at mine, it doesn't appear to be in danger of a vibrational disassembly, but it's always good to check these things periodically. I had a Yakima roof box start to come off the top of my SUV once. Someone next to me motioned that something was wrong, otherwise the whole thing may have come apart further down the road.


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## Terex (Jan 3, 2005)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> Simple fix for that problem... Wrap some heavy duct tape around the end post a few times and it'll never slide off.


First - Thanks for posting that info!

The one in the video may be an older model. My T2 is about a year old and I just went out and inspected it. The collar is tight and I was not able to budge it. The bolts securing the collar appear to have extra thread to further tighten the collar in the event the bracket bends, which I doubt will happen based on the thickness of the metal they've used. Also, on the underside of the end post, between the bracket and the plastic plug at the end, is a small Phillips head screw. Even if the brackets slides toward the end, the screw head would stop the bracket from sliding off entirely. Even still, I'm going to wrap a piece of contrasting color tape around the end post, flush with the bracket. That should 1) remind me to check tightness periodically and, 2) provide visual indication if the bracket is starting to creep towards the back.

Again, from looking at mine, it doesn't appear to be in danger of a vibrational disassembly, but it's always good to check these things periodically. I had a Yakima roof box start to come off the top of my SUV once. Someone next to me motioned that something was wrong, otherwise the whole thing may have come apart further down the road.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> Simple fix for that problem... Wrap some heavy duct tape around the end post a few times and it'll never slide off.


Unless I'm misunderstanding you, I don't think that would work at all. It's not terribly difficult to work duct tape off something by nudging it again and again from the side, especially with the kind of repetitive motion that's moving bolts around (albeit slowly).


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

I'm sure if you wrapped the last 2 inches in duct tape nothing would get past it.. If someone is really worried about it you could always your a screw type hose clamp.. put it on and tighten it down.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> I'm sure if you wrapped the last 2 inches in duct tape nothing would get past it.. If someone is really worried about it you could always your a screw type hose clamp.. put it on and tighten it down.


aren't hose clamps round? clamping it down tight on the square T2 bar will not work well...

Other than duct tape, is there a way to have a screw/nut/bolt installed there so that the nut/bolt will protrude and block the sliding tray from falling off the rack?


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

skyliner1004 said:


> aren't hose clamps round? clamping it down tight on the square T2 bar will not work well...


Yes, they're round, until you bend them. This would work just fine.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

skyliner1004 said:


> What's the word on the t2's hooking arm and pressure on the front brake caliper? It would definitely touch mine. What do u guys do?


Christ, do you read responses? It touches mine, it's just not a big deal. If you're worried about a rubber-coated arm touching your caliper, then just stop riding.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

GirchyGirchy said:


> Christ, do you read responses? It touches mine, it's just not a big deal. If you're worried about a rubber-coated arm touching your caliper, then just stop riding.


you seem to be the only person who commented on that at all. i'm looking for more than 1 opinion. yes, i'm worried about a rubber coated arm putting about 20lbs of pressure split between my wheel and my brake caliper. They're not designed to be pressed on.


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

skyliner1004 said:


> you seem to be the only person who commented on that at all. i'm looking for more than 1 opinion. yes, i'm worried about a rubber coated arm putting about 20lbs of pressure split between my wheel and my brake caliper. They're not designed to be pressed on.


The pressure is not on the brake caliper when the arm is locked in to place. It rests just in front of it and if the car is bouncing down the road is may contact it. The padding on the T2 arm is rather thick and to this date had not even left a scuff mark on part of any of my bikes. As I have been using the rack for almost a year I think there is a misnomer of it actually sitting on the caliper.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

great, i also haven't heard many complaints about it. 

My main concern with my T2 917XT arriving this week is the farther tray sliding off the main rail when i'm driving on the freeway going 60-70. I'll do the duct tape, anyone have any suggestions to get a nut/bolt in place to block it from sliding?


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

I have driven with mine many 1000's of miles on freeways and nothing has slid off with wither my mountain bike or my road bikes. As long as the front wheel is in the secured tray and locked down I just don't see how it is possible to have it slide off.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

If someone is seriously freaked about the sliding issue it would be pretty damn easy to drill a hole in the end and slide a steel bolt through. Tighten it up and voila.. never fear again.

Hell.. Take it a step further. Attach a steel loop or something to anchor a lock to it.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

skyliner1004 said:


> you seem to be the only person who commented on that at all. i'm looking for more than 1 opinion. yes, i'm worried about a rubber coated arm putting about 20lbs of pressure split between my wheel and my brake caliper. They're not designed to be pressed on.


If the issue were that pressing, I really doubt you'd find as many favorable reviews on the T2 as you do now.

As for the rear holder coming off on the freeway, again, how many instances of this have you found? If you assemble it correctly, it won't move. If you're really worried, use a hose clamp, or as ZoSo mentioned, a bolt through the tubing or some sort of U-bolt.

You're overthinking this. It will be fine.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

If anyone cares, here's how I keep my rack out of the way when not being used:


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

skyliner1004 said:


> Whats the fix for this problem with the Thule T2?
> 
> http://vimeo.com/9898642
> 
> Thule T2 Bike Rack malfunctions on interstate causing injuries and destroyed mountain bike from Angie Hyndman on Vimeo.


He didn't have something assembled correctly or tight. My trays do not wobble at all like that. And I've had mine for several years now.


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## Danger Mouse (Apr 8, 2010)

Swagman user here. Not sure why the 2" version costs more than the 1.25" version. We use the 2".

http://www.amazon.com/Swagman-Cross..._1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1276624298&sr=8-1


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## peedee (Dec 2, 2010)

The Kuat NV is my pick. It's expensive but well worth it.


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## nOOky (Mar 20, 2009)

Just bought a Saris Thelma 3 bike 2" hitch rack. I like it except my 29er tire doesn't fit fully into the holder. I e-mailed Saris about longer straps and they sent me a link to purchase additional straps with the suggestion that I hook two together to make one long one. Letting a bunch of air out of the tire works too, although that sux.
I searched a bit and found an updated holder redesigned to accept larger wheels, looks like I might have bought an older rack.
The shop did give me an additional adult wheel holder and removed the smaller 24" wheel holder for me. I see the larger updated wheel holder can be bought online for something like $60 or so, but still I'm a little bummed. 
I did get the rack for $300 though, I thought that was a decent price. It does seem well-built and I only notice a small clunking occasionally when I hit a bump etc.


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## rose.johnp (Jul 20, 2011)

*Thelma's good!*



Hooben said:


> What Blue Cheese Head Said...
> Anything that holds your bikes from the tires, to prevent damage to your frame. Saris is my favorite.
> 
> 
> http://www.saris.com/p-298-thelma-2-bike.aspx


I have this rack as well, it's awesome. It fit's my road bike, my mtb, my wife's beach cruiser, my kid's bike... One rack, any bike. No worries about the frames getting scratched either. I did a lot of research before buying this, and out of all the "wheel holding" frames, I found this to be the best for my biking needs. Good Luck!


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

Well after two weeks of reading threads, speaking to people and researching racks I finally ordered the 1UPUSA rack. Got to see it in person and that sealed it for me. The quality and workmanship is awesome. Very easy to use and light. I little pricey but I really like it.


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

willieboy said:


> Well after two weeks of reading threads, speaking to people and researching racks I finally ordered the 1UPUSA rack. Got to see it in person and that sealed it for me. The quality and workmanship is awesome. Very easy to use and light. I little pricey but I really like it.


I'm curious what made you choose this over the Thule T2? $299 is for a single bike carrier and it is $199 for an additional carrier. I bought my T2 on ebay for $358 dollars shipped and this just doesn't add up really. Does the quality stand that much above the Thule? I am curious because my wife needs a rack on her car also and I was just going to buy another T2.


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

rward325 said:


> I'm curious what made you choose this over the Thule T2? $299 is for a single bike carrier and it is $199 for an additional carrier. I bought my T2 on ebay for $358 dollars shipped and this just doesn't add up really. Does the quality stand that much above the Thule? I am curious because my wife needs a rack on her car also and I was just going to buy another T2.


The quality of materials, workmanship, light weight and it's hitch mounting system. I also like the way the bike is held in place. I was down to the Thule T2 and 1UPUSA rack in the end. Price was not a consideration for me as they are pretty close. The Thule T2 in the 1 1/4 hitch version comes in at $360.00 to $395.00 depending on the seller. Even if I buy the additional 2nd rack for the 1UP, I would be at $550.00 for a system I much prefer. FTR, I think the Thule T2 is a fine rack. Just not for me


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## rward325 (Sep 22, 2008)

willieboy said:


> The quality of materials, workmanship, light weight and it's hitch mounting system. I also like the way the bike is held in place. I was down to the Thule T2 and 1UPUSA rack in the end. Price was not a consideration for me as they are pretty close. The Thule T2 in the 1 1/4 hitch version comes in at $360.00 to $395.00 depending on the seller. Even if I buy the additional 2nd rack for the 1UP, I would be at $550.00 for a system I much prefer. FTR, I think the Thule T2 is a fine rack. Just not for me


I appreciate your opinion. I will have to look twice at this rack now.


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

rward325 said:


> I appreciate your opinion. I will have to look twice at this rack now.


My pleasure. That's what we are here for. Assistance and opinions. All for the good of each other and cycling


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## nOOky (Mar 20, 2009)

That 1upusa looks like a nice rack, wish I could have seen one in person I probably would have opted for it.


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## Trevor Ash (May 19, 2005)

willieboy said:


> The quality of materials, workmanship, light weight and it's hitch mounting system. I also like the way the bike is held in place. I was down to the Thule T2 and 1UPUSA rack in the end. Price was not a consideration for me as they are pretty close. The Thule T2 in the 1 1/4 hitch version comes in at $360.00 to $395.00 depending on the seller. Even if I buy the additional 2nd rack for the 1UP, I would be at $550.00 for a system I much prefer. FTR, I think the Thule T2 is a fine rack. Just not for me


I was looking at this while considering replacing my old Thule T2. But I was under the impression that weight was about the same for TWO bikes. My T2 seems to weigh between 45 and 50 pounds (fish scale went up to 45 but I only let it sit there for a second because I was worried something would break).

The 1UPUSA rack says 25 for the 1 bike rack, then 20 for the addon, for a total of two bikes at 45 pounds. Same weight! I was pretty bummed when I figured this out.

Weight was one of the major concerns for me. I have never felt confident having two bikes + the weight of the rack + the distance it extends from the hitch when hitting bumps on my 1.25 hitch.

Thoughts?

I'm currently planning on buying a Raxter (10 pounds lighter) if I can sell my T2. That's pretty much where I'm at right now. Only problem is, they don't seem to manufacture a 1.25" non folding two bike rack. They only sell that model in the 2" hitch. I don't actually have a need for the folding option and as far as I'm concerned it only adds even more weight and money out of my wallet.


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## tebeguache (Feb 5, 2005)

Can anyone recommend a fork down hitch rack?


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

Trevor Ash said:


> I was looking at this while considering replacing my old Thule T2. But I was under the impression that weight was about the same for TWO bikes. My T2 seems to weigh between 45 and 50 pounds (fish scale went up to 45 but I only let it sit there for a second because I was worried something would break).
> 
> The 1UPUSA rack says 25 for the 1 bike rack, then 20 for the addon, for a total of two bikes at 45 pounds. Same weight! I was pretty bummed when I figured this out.
> 
> ...


I will have one bike on the 1UP 90 percent of the time. The additional 2nd rack is removable as well. Again, the T2 was in the running but the 1UP is the winner for me. I saw the Raxter as well. Looked pretty good but as you mentioned it was out of the running because of the 2" receiver.


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## Trevor Ash (May 19, 2005)

willieboy said:


> I will have one bike on the 1UP 90 percent of the time. The additional 2nd rack is removable as well. Again, the T2 was in the running but the 1UP is the winner for me. I saw the Raxter as well. Looked pretty good but as you mentioned it was out of the running because of the 2" receiver.


I just googled how much the T2 weighs and many posts are saying more like 55-60 pounds. So I used the old on and off the bathroom scale, sure enough, it's closer to 55 pounds there.

So it looks like (for two bikes):
36 lbs - Raxter Tarsus
45 lbs - 1UP
55 lbs - T2

Cost is:
Raxter Tarsus - $382 ($37 shipping)
1UP - $500 (free sh)

For the extra $118 you're getting...
Foldable, thus portable, and the extra bike extension can be removed when not needed reducing hitch load in those cases.

They both seem easy enough to operate (only minor quibbles as far as I'm concerned).

It's a tough call for me to be honest. I'm going to double check clearances and dimensions  If I like the dimensions of the 1UP better I might buy it. Otherwise probably going for the Raxter.


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## J T (Aug 15, 2010)

Terex said:


> Hanger racks work for inexpensive bikes that you don't mind rattling around. Tray mount racks ftw.


I have a Thule "hanging" version and my bikes don't rattle around.


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## NateHawk (Aug 19, 2011)

poff said:


> The (by far) best rack available is made by Kuat. You should choose between NV and Sherpa (only 27 lbs for 2 bike rack). These are not cheap ($400) but really GREAT.
> 
> *I can't even quote a post with a link until I have 10 posts. Stupid forum rules*


I've had my eye on those every since they were first announced. I'm selling off my Thule Sidearms. I need to put a hitch on my Honda still, but once I have one both vehicles will have hitches and the Kuat NV will eventually be mine.


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