# Sore arms and shoulders



## COpedaler (Sep 9, 2009)

When I come back from longer rides (25 to 30 miles) I notice my arms and shoulders our sore. I know this is due to weak stomach and lower back muscles. Besides working on strengthening these muscles (which I am working on) does anyone have any suggestions on what I should concentrate on when riding?


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## Guest (Oct 20, 2009)

Relax, make sure your arms are bent as you go over any bumps, and having someone take a look at your position may also help. You might also re-evaluate your tire pressure.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If it's not noticable _during_ rides and the soreness isn't running across your shoulders and neck, it's probably not fit related. Maintain proper position keeping your arms slightly bent and upper body relaxed (along with the strengthening you're already doing), but also be aware of keeping to one position too long. Mix it up by changing hand positions on the bars and (when it's safe to do so) sitting upright, try stretching your arms up and out while riding - assuming you can ride one or no hands for a bit.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I had the same problem. My arms were mostly OK except for the deltoids, the muscles on the very top of the arms on the outside. It was so bad that I always carried aspirin with me to deaden the pain. It was like a tooth ache. A couple of weeks ago I bought a new seat. I thought I was a little stretched out on the bike, so I moved the saddle forward about 1.5 centimeters. The result = 0 pain. YMMV


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Mr. Versatile said:


> I had the same problem. My arms were mostly OK except for the deltoids, the muscles on the very top of the arms on the outside. It was so bad that I always carried aspirin with me to deaden the pain. It was like a tooth ache. A couple of weeks ago I bought a new seat. I thought I was a little stretched out on the bike, so I moved the saddle forward about 1.5 centimeters. The result = 0 pain. YMMV


I'm guessing you're not sensitive to KOPS.  

I'm glad this adjustment worked for you, but in general I wouldn't recommend fore/ aft saddle adjustment to change reach, because it could create another fit issue. Rather, IMO a shorter stem would be the more appropriate fix.


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## COpedaler (Sep 9, 2009)

I have been fitted properly by my LBS. They believe the issue is weak core muscles because I am so new to biking and am putting too much weight on my hands. The good news is I am getting a good upper body workout.


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## pdh777 (Oct 7, 2005)

That's kind of an issue - you should not be getting a good upper body workout. The majority your physical effort should be channeled through your legs. With your upper body doing enough to keep your upper torso upright with a mild grip on the bars.

Your upper body should be very relaxed, your arms should be bent to help alleviate road shock. 

Try lightening your grip and make sure your arms are not locked at the elbows and shoulders.

Certainly core fitness will help reduce soreness in the lower back etc.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

COpedaler said:


> I have been fitted properly by my LBS. *They believe the issue is weak core muscles because I am so new to biking and am putting too much weight on my hands.* The good news is I am getting a good upper body workout.


I'm not promoting the idea of adjustments to fit (yet, but maybe...) but it's a contradiction to say the fit is correct but you're putting too much weight on your hands. Fit dictates that, and remedies normally include saddle adjustments - moving it _slightly_ back and/ or leveling if down, or tilting it _slightly_ up if level. And if reach is determined to be excessive, a shorter stem.

But taking a step back, if the pain doesn't occur _while_ you're riding and run across your neck/ shoulders, fit might not be the issue. Also, too much weight on a riders hands usually results in hand pain/ numbness, so your issue might simply _be_ building core strength.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Absolutely.*



PJ352 said:


> tilting it _slightly_ up if level.


While often overlooked in that context, saddle tilt is, in fact, a significant factor in how much weight is carried by arms and hands. A slight nose-down tilt, for example, causes many riders to slide forward with every bump in the road. In response, the rider learns to push himself back with his arms, which results in a huge amount of upper-body work done over a longer ride (makes for well-defined triceps, though!).

It's counterintuitive, but a slight nose-up tilt often results on more comfort rather than less for your nether regions. Your butt slides back and stays back on the saddle, meaning you sit more on your so-called seat bones than you would with a saddle nose-down or dead level. At least give it a try and see.

One other thing: as you get stronger and bring more force onto the pedals, you take more and more weight off your butt, arms and hands. One of the reasons many experienced riders hate to piddle along in tiny gears is the fact that their butt, arms and hands hurt when doing that, reminding them of the days long ago when they first started riding a bike.


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## COpedaler (Sep 9, 2009)

My seat is perfectly level. I think, however, I will try tilting the seat up ever so slightly. I do notice that every so often I find I have to keep scooting back on to the seat as if I was falling forward. If it every stops snowing, I will let you know how it goes.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> I'm guessing you're not sensitive to KOPS.
> 
> I'm glad this adjustment worked for you, but in general I wouldn't recommend fore/ aft saddle adjustment to change reach, because it could create another fit issue. Rather, IMO a shorter stem would be the more appropriate fix.


Actually I prefer to be just a tiny bit behind KOP. My KOP position is virtually unchanged. One of the reasons I changed seats was because the one I had was too long and a little narrower than I like. I found myself sitting on the nose too much. I think eventually I would have discovered the problem & corrected it, but I learned of a saddle that I'd ridden for many years was available, so I jumped at the chance to get one. that's what prompted the whole deal.


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## COpedaler (Sep 9, 2009)

Forgive my ignorance, but what is KOP?


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## pdh777 (Oct 7, 2005)

Knee over pedal


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

COpedaler said:


> Forgive my ignorance, but what is KOP?


For accuracy's sake, it's actually KOPS - Knee Over Pedal Spindle. 
Follow the dotted line...
View attachment 181107


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

OP, are you sure you have the correct bar width? If you are new to bicycling, but can already do 30 miles, you should have adapted quickly and be beyond the soreness already.


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## COpedaler (Sep 9, 2009)

My bike is actually a commuter bike. Its a long story. I realize now that I should have bought a road bike and not a commuter bike, but money was a factor. Don't get me wrong, I love my bike (a Trek FX 7.3), but I can't wait to get a road bike. Maybe Christmas if I'm good. Anyway, the bars are obviously wider then a road bike. When I got fitted I reversed the stem to a more aggressive position which I am enjoying. I have only ridden about 500 miles so far.


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## Slow Ride (Jul 10, 2008)

I didn't read all followup posts, so forgive me if this is repetition. 

Personally I had to concentrate (initially) on keeping my shoulders relaxed and lowered (not hunched up) and my elbows bent slightly (it helped to focus on sort of pointing them downward) to eliminate pain for me. I also went from a 110 to 90 mm stem. 

Rich


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## Rider5200 (Sep 7, 2007)

Since you are working on your core strength, throw some upper body exercise in there, too. Push-ups are always good. If you have some weights, working on shoulders, deltoids and triceps would help. Focus on lighter weight with higher reps will tone and strengthen muscle without building bulk. 2-3 times per week is all it takes for most people.

If you are relatively new to riding, you may just also need some more time on the bike. If 25-30 mile rides are new to you, just keep upping the mileage and let your body adapt.


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