# Strange vibration in brand new SuperSix



## Unknown Arch (Aug 17, 2011)

Hey folks,

The backstory on this issue can be found at: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/co...making-ping-sound-vibrating-badly-259639.html

Hoping to get a more specific answer from the Cannondale crowd, especially the SuperSix owners.

Long story short, I bought a 2011 SuperSix about two months ago. After about 500 miles, I started getting a very strange, deep, low frequency vibration in the crank/BB area when pedaling under power (for example, climbing at speed, accelerating in a tall gear, etc.) accompanied by a strange "ping" when backpedaling that can be felt throughout the frame. I took the bike to the shop, they disassembled and lubed everything, but the issue persists. The shop has been great, but I'm a bit concerned at this point. I had a CAAD 8 for six years prior to getting this SuperSix, and even when I had horribly neglected the CAAD 8, I can never recall as disconcerting of a feeling as the vibration coming from my SuperSix under power. Granted, I am about 185 lbs and around 6'2", but that's no excuse for feeling this strong a vibration through a carbon bike and carbon crank arms. It has very much spoiled the ride for me.

Looking to see if anyone has had a similar experience with their SuperSix frame and how this was resolved. I wouldn't say I'm at the point of having buyer's remorse yet, but I'm getting there. Thanks in advance.

Worth noting: Shop has been great through this whole thing, but I'd like to get this to a resolution.


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## CAADEL (Jul 23, 2011)

Unknown Arch said:


> a strange "ping" when backpedaling that can be felt throughout the frame. I took the bike to the shop, they disassembled and lubed everything, but the issue persists. The shop has been great, but I'm a bit concerned at this point.


Just one week after I bought my CAAD10 I felt this "ping" when backpedaling and a creaky sound when pedaling and I took it to the shop too. It then stopped for a couple of days and then one day it did it again for some time and then it suddenly stopped and the "ping" never reappeared! 

BB30 is kind of weird. 

Oh, and I'm 160lbs.


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## CHL (Jun 24, 2005)

Unknown Arch:

I've spent quite some time quieting down my BB30 setup. With my original 08 Super Six, it was the shitty Cannondale bearings that wore out in two months. Switched to Enduro Hybrids, stuffed them full of Phil Wood Grease and never had any more problems (now after several thousand miles, several removal/install into newer frames). If you suspect the bearings, remove the shields and examine the bearings inside the cartridges. Is there sufficient amount of grease? Is there any binding as you spin the bearing cartridge? The Cannondale ceramic bearings had almost no grease when I removed the seals. A thin flat head screw driver will assist you in removing the shields. 

On my CAAD9, when I used an FSA SLK Light crankset, I found that it was the interface between the inner surface of the bearing and the spindle. It wasn't as tight as the Cannondale Spindle, which I do have to hammer in and out (the FSA came out with just simple hand pressure/tap). I used a few dabs of Blue Loctite on the inner surface of the bearings. Drive train ran completely quiet. Don't over do it with the Blue Loctite. Just a few dabs works. Otherwise, use the Green Loctite.

If you're using a Connex chain link, make sure it has the correct orientation. Also, make sure your rear derailleur is probably adjusted, including the B screw. Also you might want to start with a different set of pedals (if available). Noises are super hard to locate and identify. In addition, when you grease the inner surface of the bottom bracket shell. Use a grease that can lubricate bearings. A small amount will seep into the bearings, especially if you apply too much.

Sorry. I don't have a magic bullet for you. Noise elimination is often a process of elimination. Best of luck.

CHL


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## pa rider1 (Aug 30, 2009)

I agree with CHL reply. I had problems with my cervelo 2011 R3 BB30. I had 1000 miles and mine had vibration and came loose. My shop gave me new BB30 under warrenty (can only use cervelo bb30). 

My lbs said he could grease the old one and reinstall them but i asked for a new BB30. Starting over with new bearing sounds like a better solution. I would say something to your lbs about the bearings CHL mention or if they got better one than cannondale gives.

I know when bicycles are build they don't put alot of grease on things (Had trek fuel in 2008 headset dry as bone when i got it new). The bearings sound like they're probably pit some, so starting over new seem to be worth the trouble (plus your lbs make sure have everything greased). 

I reply to your other post a few days ago. 

Bige


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## Unknown Arch (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks all, hoping to get more information in the next day or two. Since the crank/bb have already been removed, relubed, and reassembled, I suspect the bearings are pitted and/or there is another more serious mechanical problem elsewhere on the bike. More to follow...

Of course, any other suggestions are appreciated.


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## Unknown Arch (Aug 17, 2011)

Hi All,

Just an update on this issue, I seem to be out of luck here. The shop has completely gone over the bike and has basically said that they've seen similar vibrations to this on other BB30s and basically left it at that.

Any advice? This will drive me crazy, so if I can't even go the warranty route, I'm probably going to have to sell the bike, eat my losses, and find another brand. Hugely disappointed.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

The suggestions above regarding the chain and the BB bearings are good ones. If your shop hasn't tried any of the remedies by these forumites, then do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined or find another shop that WILL try them.

I was going to suggest trying different wheels, one at a time. I thought it might be the ratcheting mechanism in the cassette body or bad bearings in either wheel.

If it's only occurring while pedaling, then I suspect a poor interface between the chainrings and the chain. Swapping out the chain is an inexpensive test and if that fails you can save the chain as a spare, no money lost.

I have little experience with FSK cranks but I don't have much faith in aftermarket products, including FSK. That said, if the chain isn't the problem, can you swap in a pair of chainrings from a different brand of crank? If the teeth are not cut to a correct profile, I could see this vibration as you call it occurring and the chain tries to mesh with the rings.

Which brings up the question: does the vibration occur in both rings or just one? This could be a clue.

Regarding the BB bearings: I like the idea of replacing or at least regreasing them. If it's not recommended to use the Blue Loctite (#242) suggested above, I'd try a wrap or two of plumber's Teflon tape around the bearing as it's pressed into the BB shell.

In fact, a check of the Cannondale Tech Notes regarding the BB30, it sounds like the bearings aren't serviceable at all but there are specific installation instructions. If your local shop isn't willing to replace the bearing/cup system AND add grease to the new bearings before installation EVEN IF YOU OFFER TO PAY FOR THE SERVICE, then try another shop. I'd at least be willing to spend a few bucks on this suggestion if it were my bike, before condemning it.

Besides; how are you honestly going to be able to sell this bike if it has this problem?


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## jan_nikolajsen (Dec 25, 2009)

So, no bearings have been replaced?

I work at a Cannondale dealership where we service BB30 bikes all the time. To replace bearings takes two #6806 sealed units, less than 15 minutes of work and customers are out the door again for $30, labor and parts.

It's that simple. Your LBS should do this, no questions asked, if you want it done.

We set them in grease if a preliminary try shows a tight fit, otherwise two drops of judiciously placed Loctite will do. They are installed with a headset press and BB30 guide bushings.

We work on customers bikes until they are fixed or forwarded to warranty or the customer says 'stop'. We love bikes and helping people out is why it's worth it to go to work every day. Many, many times have I wrenched on a bike for hours during slow times hunting for a solution to some wicked issue, and just charged the customer the minimum labor rate. I'm getting paid anyway, and satisfied patrons are coming back and spending money again and again. But it's also true that pushy, arrogant and unfriendly folks get less of a break. Most mechanics appreciate a few dollars in the beer fund!

But if nobody wants to help you - get on it yourself. Don't give up, these are fantastic bikes.

Go for a ride. Make sure the problem is present. Switch pedals to platform style and wear soft sneakers. Ride again. Still there? Not pedal/shoe interface. Get the picture? Process of elimination. Many things are capable of producing irritating noises. Here's more:

Chain. With modern quick links changing to another is easy. Get a SRAM 10 speed chain. Go for a ride.

Switch wheels. If you don't have spares talk the shop into lending you another rear. This will also rule out cassette issues.

Cables. If they don't have little rubber grommets on the exposed parts along the top and down tube they can make more of a racket than you would think on a carbon frame.

Seatpost. A classic carbon noise maker. Remove, clean, slap on some carbon specific friction paste. Your bike should have come with a small packet of the stuff - with FSA written on it.

Steerer, stem, bars, as above. Easy to do. Mandatory prep stuff.


Good luck!


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