# Difference between 2009/10 and 2011+ chainrings?



## wildboar (Nov 27, 2008)

Looking at upgrading to 11 speed and there are good deals to be had on the 2009/2010 Chorus/Rec cranksets and front derailleurs, so how much of a difference in shifting is there between the first gen 11 speed chainrings and front derailleur vs the 2011+ stuff?

Long term does the original stuff start having problems or something? I know they stiffened up the rings for 2011 for upcoming EPS gear but was there something else about the design that needed to be changed?


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

wildboar said:


> I know they stiffened up the rings for 2011 for upcoming EPS gear but was there something else about the design that needed to be changed?


Not that I am aware of, and I've been running one of the very first SR 11 groupsets to come across the pond for three years now. Never had any issues. They did a few little tweaks here and there, but my group has never left anything to be desired. If you can get good deals for the older models, I'd say go for it.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

On the 2011 & newer cranks, instead of using 2-piece chainring bolts, the bolt now screws directly into the small chainring.

The new single threaded bolt is larger diameter than on a 2-piece, so should be stronger and much less likely to strip.

A few months ago I damaged my 2009 Chorus 11sp crank and bought a 2012 crank.

The new chainrings don't look obviously meatier or 'stiffer' than the old ones. They both have the same # of pins & ramps, although the 2012 has a slightly different arrangement. My before and after testing can be flawed because I relied on my fallible memory, but I did Not notice any obvious difference in shift quality. I am fairly aggresive in my front shifting, ie during races or hammerfest rides -- I don't baby it.

The new style chainrings are only available from Campy, but by the time they wear out I am hoping some good quality aftermarket rings will be available (eg, Stronglight).

Some retailers in UK are releasing 2013 Campy cranks now, and the new offerings include 52-36. I bought a 50-34 (same as damaged crank) but wish I'd bought the 52-36 instead -- a nice combo. 

As you can tell, I'm not sold on putative advantges of the 2011-2012 crank design. If you see good discounts on 2010 cranks, go for it. Else, get a 2013 crank if you want 52-36 compact gearing.

Note, definitely get a 2011 or newer Front Derailler. Campy redesigned the lever arm so that it shifts in 3 clicks, not 4. You do lose fine-trim on the big ring, but with careful setup you won't miss that. You still retain fine-trim on the small ring.


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## wildboar (Nov 27, 2008)

Thanks for the replies guys, this is exactly what I was looking to find out. I couldn't find any definitive comparison anywhere between the original EPS and XPSS chainrings. Sounds like the 2010 crank, newer FD and newer shifters would be the way to save some money.


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## TopQuark (Aug 9, 2012)

Excellent info, tom_h. I was in the same boat on the chorus.


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## joeyb1000 (Feb 15, 2011)

The cranks are actually not different. The chainrings and bolts are. If you get a 2010 crank on sale (or even a 10s ultratorque carbon crank), you can install 2011+ chainrings by buying the bolt kit.

I put 2011 11s chainrings on my 2008 10s Record cranks.


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

Great summary, tom_h, thanks for sharing!


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## castofone (Dec 24, 2010)

tom_h said:


> ...
> 
> Note, definitely get a 2011 or newer Front Derailler. Campy redesigned the lever arm so that it shifts in 3 clicks, not 4. You do lose fine-trim on the big ring, but with careful setup you won't miss that. You still retain fine-trim on the small ring.


That would be a function of the brifter wouldn't it?


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