# Wrapping cables underneath handlebar tape



## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

At the 3:20 mark in this video of Contador's mechanic building up the bike, it's interesting how the mechanic wraps electrical tape over the entire bar & bare cables. 

Anyone else done it that way, and why did you prefer it?

I've usually just taped down the cables in 3-4 spots, then wrapped the finish tape. But seems covering the entire cable length with electrical tape, might do a nicer job of smoothing the cable "bumps" so you don't feel them.
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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

I do that. For me it makes the bar tape easier to change. Especially if you run cork tale with an adhesive strip. Cinelli comes to mind.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

I assume he's doing that because time is short and it's quicker than cutting tape 3 or 4 times on each side.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

I do it because it's easier to get the cable to stay in the right place. Housing seems to be getting stiffer and stiffer, and less willing to follow the bends of the bars nicely.

If I do the traditional three or four places, by the time I'm done, the other end has shifted, and it won't be in the right place under the bar wrap. If I wrap the whole thing, the continuous wrapping never gives it a chance to shift before the tape comes around for the next pass.


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## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

I can see why the pro mechanics just one long wrap, it's fast. They must buy tape by the case.

I now use this 3M outdoor duct tape, ripped into half inch wide strips. 

It doesn't creep like stretched electrical tape does. I can pull hard on the end of the tape as I wrap, and it stays in place. And the adhesive doensn't get as gooey as electrical tape after it's been out in the sun.

3 or 4 strips on each side hold the cables in place. I like to get the brake cable, on the front side of the bars, exactly in the right spot, right behind my first finger joints. And place the shifter cables on the back side down low.












tihsepa said:


> I do that. For me it makes the bar tape easier to change. Especially if you run cork tale with an adhesive strip. Cinelli comes to mind.


That's a good idea for adhesive backed tape, with the peel-off covering on the adhesive. But I use Specialized tape with a silicon rubber strip. When it's stretched while wrapping, it stays in place very well. And I can unwrap a section and re-do it if I don't like how it was wrapped.


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## rufus (Feb 3, 2004)

The full wrap of electrical tape may offer a little bit of extra cushion as well.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

I usually only do a full e-tape wrap when I'm installing Serfas gel pads. Bar tape adhesive sticks to the gel and rips it. Otherwise, I only wrap a couple of points. Electrical tape can get expensive when you buy the good stuff.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Keeps the housing against the bar better and as tihsepa posted it makes it easier to peel off old tape. I've done it for years.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

A bit of a thread hi-jack here with a question for experienced cablers (cx, Platy etc). I've cabled many many bikes and I'm on the fence over this - do you use enough outer casing to allow the bars to do a complete swivel - top tube to top tube? I have in the past but this leaves lots of swooping cable loops. Currently my bike has minimal casing which doesn't even allow a 90 degree h/bar swivel but it looks very neat. It prevents me from putting the bike (minus wheels) in the car trunk. It's been like this for three seasons with no known detrimental effects.

I'm about to replace my bars and I'm up in the air whether to go with minimal cable length or long swoopy ones. Maybe some opinions might help. My rear brake lever is on the left.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Mike T. said:


> A bit of a thread hi-jack here with a question for experienced cablers (cx, Platy etc). I've cabled many many bikes and I'm on the fence over this - do you use enough outer casing to allow the bars to do a complete swivel - top tube to top tube? I have in the past but this leaves lots of swooping cable loops. Currently my bike has minimal casing which doesn't even allow a 90 degree h/bar swivel but it looks very neat. It prevents me from putting the bike (minus wheels) in the car trunk. It's been like this for three seasons with no known detrimental effects.
> 
> I'm about to replace my bars and I'm up in the air whether to go with minimal cable length or long swoopy ones. Maybe some opinions might help. My rear brake lever is on the left.


If it matters. I run them sort if a medium. Nothing real tight but definately not as loose as a lot of builders. I think it looks alot cleaner, nice and tidy.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

tihsepa said:


> If it matters. I run them sort if a medium. Nothing real tight but definately not as loose as a lot of builders. I think it looks alot cleaner, nice and tidy.


I run mine short. If I turn the bar to 90°, it activates the rear brake. On customer bikes though, I run them sorta medium (see above). Not swoopy, but not limited either. Customers tend to freak when the brake activates from a bar turn (do they actually turn the bar 90° EVER when riding? So why worry about it?)


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

It depends on the frame, but like Platy & tihsepa I keep them short on my personal bike and usually medium-ish on customer bikes. I also cut them pretty short on the team bikes, except for the rear derailleur loop. Vince and I are fans of a nice big loop back there. On the handlebar I have to admit how it looks definitely plays into how short or not I cut them..._it has to look right!_


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

cxwrench said:


> It depends on the frame, but like Platy & tihsepa I keep them short on my personal bike and usually medium-ish on customer bikes. I also cut them pretty short on the team bikes, except for the rear derailleur loop. Vince and I are fans of a nice big loop back there. On the handlebar I have to admit how it looks definitely plays into how short or not I cut them..._it has to look right!_


Yep on the rear loop. A big loop at the rear derailleur makes for great shifting.


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## jtompilot (Mar 31, 2002)

Thanks guys for the short cable length explanation. I'll do that on my next cable set.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> Vince and I are fans of a nice big loop back there.......it has to look right!


Those suffering from feelings of loop inadequacy might be subject to loop envy because of this.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

PlatyPius said:


> do they actually turn the bar 90° EVER when riding?


If they do, braking is the last of their worries.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

I guess the factory built bikes install excessively long cable loops in front, to allow for all the possible stem, spacer, and handlebar configurations, both at the factory and at LBS. But I think it looks sloppy. 

I'm doing my yearly cable replacement right now, and I'm cutting housings relatively short so the front wheel turns easily up to about 45º ... that should accomodate even very low speed, tight turns.

And I think I will try taping down the entire length of concealed cables, under the finish tape.


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

Jay Strongbow said:


> I assume he's doing that because time is short and it's quicker than cutting tape 3 or 4 times on each side.


Yes, that's exactly the reason I do it. It saves me some time and it's easier for me.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

If I was wrapping for a quickness, or a tough to bend housing, then I would probably do a full wrap. But normally it's wrapped in 3 places.

For cable length, nice large loop for the RD, but the front needs to be nice and tidy. Not too short, but a decent sized loop. I try to divide the head tube with the loops.


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

I have arthritis in my fingers and double wrap my bars.(Triple depending on your viewpoint). I wrap the whole handle bar with a spiral wrap of foam backed double stick tape with about a 1/2 inch gapall around.. I then apply a layer of regular bar tap which I wrap pretty tight. That is then topped off with a layer of Lizard skins. Nice cush grip which makes a huge difference in my comfort. Getting ready to replace my cables this week. I will definitely give the cables a full wrap of electrical tape.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

FWIW, I used Kapton tape in three places. Very strong, thin and non-stretchy. It's important to ensure that the housings are firmly seated in the brifter bases and don't get pulled away when taped or wrapped. I tape the housings right at where the finishing wrap of the bar tape goes so that they can't pull away from the bar and it makes it easier to finish the bar tape. 




(too bad, I like and will continue to use the word "brifter"


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

looigi said:


> FWIW, I used Kapton tape in three places. Very strong, thin and non-stretchy. It's important to ensure that the housings are firmly seated in the brifter bases and don't get pulled away when taped or wrapped. I tape the housings right at where the finishing wrap of the bar tape goes so that they can't pull away from the bar and it makes it easier to finish the bar tape.


Similar to you, I use strapping tape rather than electrical tape, because it doesn't stretch. I tape at 3 or 4 places, depending on the exact bend configuration.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

JCavilia said:


> Similar to you, I use strapping tape rather than electrical tape, because it doesn't stretch. I tape at 3 or 4 places, depending on the exact bend configuration.


I've always liked two layers of h/b tape for bulk but this leaves the finished job kinda lumpy. For my new tape job I've got a big roll of "hockey tape" (hey I'm in Canada - everything is hockey up here) and I'll apply a few layers of that under my new h/b tape. With the last layer of hockey tape I'll go over all of the outer casing.


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