# Educate me on BB30 cranks..



## jhowmah (Apr 25, 2013)

My bike is a CAAD10 105 (which is a BB30), it is currently on a COMPACT FSA Gossamer crank. I want to change it to a STANDARD crank. 

Question is...

1. The nearest bike shop only has shimano cranks (105 and Ultegra). Do i still need a thread adaptor to make the shimano cranks fit? 

2. If yes, would it still be an "upgrade" (weight) with an adpator? I just thought that since im spending cash to change something on the bike might as well get something that is lighter and better(?) than the one i have right now.

3. If no.... any cranks you recommend that is somewhere in the price range of a Shimano 105 and Ultegra.

Thanks!


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

You need an adapter to run a Shimano crank in your frame. That being said there are a few out there. I have used both the Wheels Mfg inserts and the Praxis adapter. I would run the Praxis. 
That being said. Weight is not much of a concern if you go with a good crank. That Gossamer crank is an anchor.


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## jhowmah (Apr 25, 2013)

I just learned that the SRAM Red and Force have BB30 cranks. Follow up question... If i am going to buy a Red or Force crank, do i have to ask for a specifically BB30 Red/Force or i can just get any Red/Force crank? And do i still need to buy a bottom bracket for the bike if i ever go for the SRAMs or can i use my existing bottom bracket (the one that came with the bike.. for the FSA Gossamer).


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## SBard1985 (May 13, 2012)

The BB30 refers to the size/type of bottom bracket. You will need to buy a BB30 crank if you wish to use the bottom bracket that is on your bike now. You can buy the SRAM GXP crank (68 mm english thread) and buy an adapter so you can then use an english threaded BB. 

BB30 shells can be adapted to 68 mm english thread, but not the other way around. 
Basically the difference is the BB30 is pressed into the frame, GXP will be external.


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## humble (Nov 23, 2007)

Probably you cannot use your existing BB because, if I'm not mistaken, the bracket is integral with the drive arm so the drive arm comes with the bracket (but not bearings) attached. It's probably the same to remove your existing crank, you'd find the bottom bracket is integral with the drive crank arm. I would stick with BB30, there are plenty of 'upgrades' out there that are in the class of ultegra/105 that won't require an adapter. Force is a good one, probably in the class of Ultegra, it's going to come as a package with the BB.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

jhowmah said:


> My bike is a CAAD10 105 (which is a BB30), it is currently on a COMPACT FSA Gossamer crank. I want to change it to a STANDARD crank.
> 
> Question is...
> 
> ...


The FSA Gossamer Compact Crank is available in 52/36 chainrings.... order that.

GOSSAMER PRO COMPACT 50/34, 46/36, 52/36 CRANKSET


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## jhowmah (Apr 25, 2013)

Thanks for the replies!!! :thumbsup:


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## High-Roller (May 29, 2011)

humble said:


> Probably you cannot use your existing BB because, if I'm not mistaken, the bracket is integral with the drive arm so the drive arm comes with the bracket (but not bearings) attached. It's probably the same to remove your existing crank, you'd find the bottom bracket is integral with the drive crank arm.


False. you are thinking of Campy. The BB30 setup stays in the frame. The Drive arm is connected to the spindle, nothing else. With Campag the BB on the drive side is pressed onto the spindle, requiring a puller to remove (this is with SOME models) it is fairly uncommon. Only manufacture I have seen that does this currently. BB30 is pressed into the Frame's BB shell. It stays there due to it being press fitted to it. 
*EDIT* Fulcrum also uses this on some cranks*

OP, there are many upgrades you can make to your bike. If you know the size of your bike I would be happy to assist you in finding the proper crank for your bike. 
What you NEED TO KNOW:
BB type -BB30
Crankarm length - Unknown without size of bike. It is also stamped on the cranks (Inside of crankarm)
Desired Chainring sizes- You want a Standard. AKA 53-39

Many BB30 cranks exist. Order a BB30 crank. Why mess with adapters. The BB30 is (Theoretically) Stiffer. Red/Force would be an awesome choice. Should be a simple swap, though you might need some extra chain links pending on current length.


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## humble (Nov 23, 2007)

High-Roller said:


> False. you are thinking of Campy. The BB30 setup stays in the frame. The Drive arm is connected to the spindle nothing else.


Correct. I wasn't using proper terminology - I did mean spindle. Spindle is connected to the drive arm - so it must be changed - not bracket. 

Thank you for clarrifying, I agree with your advice. That's exactly the direction I would take.

/h


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## Diopena1 (Jul 21, 2011)

I say get an SISL crank, you can change the spider from compact to standard if you wish. They are the stiffest I believe.... I swapped out my Sram Red compact with these, and to me the pedal strokes feel like power delivery is smoother.


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

I just did a Gossamer BB30 replacement on my Felt. I went to a Shimano and use the Wheels Adapters (BB30-SHIM). These about $22. at Amazon. I didn't use the thin original bearing seals on each outside side of the bearing, or wavy washer, just the shims. I had to go back after the first two rides and re-torque the shimano left side special bolt to eliminate a little play. You need a special tool for that one like Park BBT-9. 
It's rock solid now. My plan was to try these, and go to a Praxis adapter if need be later. I'll put a few thousand miles on these and so how it goes. 

I like the Shimano rings best of all, for tooth shape, wear, and reliable, dependable repeat-ability of front shifts. A review of Praxis rings said only Praxis and Shimano use cold forged rings.
Maybe that explains why Shimano rings seem better in both shape and hardness to me. 
I was having problems with chain suck with the Gossamer rings, and read others have Gossamer shifting problems as well. Going to a Shimano Ultegra crank cured those front shifting problems 100%. 

I would do it again same way, Shimano Ultegra or 105. There's a great deal ($120.) on Ultegra FC-6600 standard cranks in all arm lengths at Jenson USA now. I'd look hard at that if you want to save a few bucks and get a traditional looking Shimano crank. Also Chain Reaction has current 105 cranks for under 150. with free shipping.


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## primov8 (Dec 16, 2012)

jhowmah said:


> 2. ...I just thought that since im spending cash to change something on the bike might as well get something that is lighter and better(?) than the one i have right now.


Keep the crankarms and just swap out the chainrings. A set of Praxis Works rings, 52/36 mid-compact would be my recommendation.


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## rogervered (Nov 6, 2013)

humble said:


> Probably you cannot use your existing BB because, if I'm not mistaken, the bracket is integral with the drive arm so the drive arm comes with the bracket (but not bearings) attached. It's probably the same to remove your existing crank, you'd find the bottom bracket is integral with the drive crank arm. I would stick with BB30, there are plenty of 'upgrades' out there that are in the class of ultegra/105 that won't require an adapter. Force is a good one, probably in the class of Ultegra, it's going to come as a package with the BB.


What he said is right that you are thinking of Campy. The BB30 setup stays in the frame. The Drive arm is connected to the spindle, nothing else. With Campag the BB on the drive side is pressed onto the spindle, requiring a puller to remove (this is with SOME models) it is fairly uncommon. Only manufacture I have seen that does this currently. BB30 is pressed into the Frame's BB shell. It stays there due to it being press fitted to it.<img src="http://goo.gl/lh8uQf" />:aureola:


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## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

Personally, I wouldn't go this route - spending almost as much on chainrings as a new BB30 crank isn't worth the money. Look for a good deal on a BB30 crankset - a SRAM Red exogram BB30 crank (you can find some around on good deals now that the 22 stuff is out) is going to save a lot of weight over your current crank (it is close to the lightest crank around) and is very stiff. The shifting is vastly improved over previous Sram cranks. It takes about 10 minutes to install. There are also lots of good deals on force BB30 cranks - make sure the crank is specified BB30 standard not GXP, which is for a threaded English BB. Avoid using an adapter and a GXP crank, since this negates the purpose of a BB30.



primov8 said:


> Keep the crankarms and just swap out the chainrings. A set of Praxis Works rings, 52/36 mid-compact would be my recommendation.


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## jhowmah (Apr 25, 2013)

Again Thanks for the replies helped a lot!


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## Lelandjt (Sep 11, 2008)

Sram Red and Force for BB30 are great weight/dollar. S-Works is even lighter and only slightly more money. I'm intriged by the SISL but don't know its cost. Definitely get one of those 4.


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## Diopena1 (Jul 21, 2011)

Not to thread jack, but I have a cannondale Sram Red BB30 crankset sitting in my garage, it's a compact 50/34, has about 2500miles on them, small surface scuffs if the OP is interested.
Recently upgraded to the SISL2 cranks because I wanted interchangeability from compact to standard if needed.


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## nordy643 (Aug 3, 2012)

I have the same bike and have been thinking about this as well. Was looking between the FSA SL-K Light and the Cannondale Hollowgram series. Leaning towards the Hollowgram if I do upgrade. I did change out the chainrings to the Praxis 52/36 mid-compact which has made a nice difference in the gearing range I can utilize.

Why do you want to change the crank out? Have you changed anything else out like wheels?


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## lbkwak (Feb 22, 2012)

SBard1985 said:


> The BB30 refers to the size/type of bottom bracket. You will need to buy a BB30 crank if you wish to use the bottom bracket that is on your bike now. You can buy the SRAM GXP crank (68 mm english thread) and buy an adapter so you can then use an english threaded BB.
> 
> *BB30 shells can be adapted to 68 mm english thread, but not the other way around. *
> Basically the difference is the BB30 is pressed into the frame, GXP will be external.


Incorrect.

ex. Zipp Vumaquad, FSA BB386EVO, Rotor 3DF+, and etc.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

lbkwak said:


> Incorrect.
> 
> ex. Zipp Vumaquad, FSA BB386EVO, Rotor 3DF+, and etc.


what was so incorrect ? assuming you meant the bolded phrase ?



> BB30 shells can be adapted to 68 mm english thread, but not the other way around.


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## igotyofire (Nov 27, 2011)

Z'mer said:


> I just did a Gossamer BB30 replacement on my Felt. I went to a Shimano and use the Wheels Adapters (BB30-SHIM). These about $22. at Amazon. I didn't use the thin original bearing seals on each outside side of the bearing, or wavy washer, just the shims. I had to go back after the first two rides and re-torque the shimano left side special bolt to eliminate a little play. You need a special tool for that one like Park BBT-9.
> It's rock solid now. My plan was to try these, and go to a Praxis adapter if need be later. I'll put a few thousand miles on these and so how it goes.
> 
> I like the Shimano rings best of all, for tooth shape, wear, and reliable, dependable repeat-ability of front shifts. A review of Praxis rings said only Praxis and Shimano use cold forged rings.
> ...


I just googled chainstuck, so that is why my chainstay is all scratched up on my FELT, damn, I took it to the bike shop and they all seem to think it shifts fine, looks like i should upgrade as well.


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

Yes, join the club, that is exactly what mine looked like too. The bike shop gave me a bottle of clear touch-up for scratches, using that made them disappear. 
The Felt designers put the clear protective plastic sheet on the *top* of the stay, where it protects zero from this problem. Until sorted, something like Lizard Skin will prevent further nicks in the finish. 
I would, at a minimum, get 105 50 / 34 110 BCD rings immediately. They will fit right on the Gossamer crank. And clean / lube the chain. Those 105 rings can be had in black for around $60-70. for both - well worth it. 

I had the chain suck "jam" on shifts from big to small in front maybe 10 times before I got pissed and switched the crank. I noticed that folks on other bikes (like Cervelo), with brand new bikes, report the same problem with Gossamer cranks. 
I've been riding good bikes since '75, and never had this problem before, no matter how dirty the chain was. Those stock FSA Gossamer rings are junk IMHO. I've never seen crank alloy teeth that "soft" before.


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

Here's the same chain suck damaged area on my 2013 Z4. The transition from clear to foggy is where the damage was painted with the clear touch up. 

The other shots show the FC-6800 install in the BB30 with Wheels Mfg. BB30 SHIM adapters. I also installed a new KMC 10.93 chain. Oddly, after maybe 800-900 miles the stock FSA chain was worn to 0.5 with a Park Tool. Maybe this contributed?


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## igotyofire (Nov 27, 2011)

isn't the 6800 designed for an 11 speed chain & will have different spacing? but your still running a 10spd setup?


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

Yes, I'm running 10 speed chain and cassette with the FC-6800, it all works fine. 
The most critical thing is the chain line is the same for both. 
I didn't even need to re-adjust the front derailleur after installing it. 

The Shimano 11 speed chain has the same internal width and pitch as 10 speed, they just made the chain outer dimension smaller by 0.38 mm. So the 11 speed chain rings have the same width as 10 speed ones. The spacing also looks to be exactly the same (didn't measure that). Apparently, many people are using the FC-9000 with 10 speed chains just fine. 
Even though it works fine, Shimano does not list the 10 and 11 speed cranks as compatible. Oh well, that's true for a lot of parts that play together just great.


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## Skyhawke (Feb 20, 2014)

*RE: Chain suck*

I am having the same problem with chain suck on my 2014 Z5.

The LBS adjusted the front limits to help it out, but I wonder if I need to do a little more investigation. The last time it happened (a few days ago) it ripped the chain stay protective plate off (LBS reattached it). I am very worried about throwing the chain on a century and dinging the crap out of my CF chain stay...

My creaking noise was fixed by having the LBS pull the crank and lube all contact points.


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## igotyofire (Nov 27, 2011)

Z'mer said:


> I just did a Gossamer BB30 replacement on my Felt. I went to a Shimano and use the Wheels Adapters (BB30-SHIM). These about $22. at Amazon. I didn't use the thin original bearing seals on each outside side of the bearing, or wavy washer, just the shims. I had to go back after the first two rides and re-torque the shimano left side special bolt to eliminate a little play. You need a special tool for that one like Park BBT-9.
> It's rock solid now. My plan was to try these, and go to a Praxis adapter if need be later. I'll put a few thousand miles on these and so how it goes.
> 
> I like the Shimano rings best of all, for tooth shape, wear, and reliable, dependable repeat-ability of front shifts. A review of Praxis rings said only Praxis and Shimano use cold forged rings.
> ...


Hows that wheels adapter holding up, still quiet? I have a Cannondale with 400miles on it & now and its still noisy and am officially going to be done with BB30. I want to order a power2max power meter soon and thinking I should get a BB30 adapter with english cranks.


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