# Slicks vs Tread for winter bicycle tires?



## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Many of the new bicycle tires coming out are slicks.

I've been trying out both Origin 8 Elimin8er tires (with minimal tread) and Gator Hardshell tires (mostly slick) this summer. So far they both seem to be quite good at resisting punctures, and have done well this summer.

But, with winter around the corner, should I be considering something with a little more tread? 

I'm probably not going to be out in the ice or snow, although perhaps a little morning frost. However, I will expect the roads to be WET most of the time.

A few tires that caught my attention with moderate tread.

Kenda K905 Karvs. $25, 249 grams.











Pasela Panaracer, $16, 300 grams.







Schwalbe Marathon Plus $47, 580 grams. Pretty heavy, but supposed to have good puncture resistance.








At one time I had some full knobby tires for my road bike, but haven't felt the need for them recently. 

Thoughts?


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

At the price, the Panaracer or Kenda would be worth trying. I've also had good results with Vee Rubber tires, although I'm only trying my first road bike tires (used them on hybrid and mtb). AFAIK Vee Rubber makes many (possibly all) of the tires for Origin8.


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## QuattroCreep (Nov 30, 2009)

Tread will not make a difference on a bike tire in the wet. Read:

Rubber side down: the function of road tyre tread patterns | CyclingTips

It has been covered before. Tread is good for mixed surface riding Ex. gravel / Dirt roads or snow. 

Personally I am not a fan of Kenda tires so I would steer you away from them based purely on brand. I have no experience with that tire.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I ride GP 4 Seasons all Winter - below freezing and no problems with not having tread. They grab fine in the rain too. I don't ride in the snow or ice.


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## SPlKE (Sep 10, 2007)

I rode on Pasela Panaracers for years when I was commuting year round. I loved them.

I had been running Specialized city tires, but didn't realize what I was missing until I went with the Pasela tires. The Paselas were a lot smoother, and the overall quality and durability was a lot better than the Specialized tires I replaced.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Ok,
I decided to buy a 25mm Schwalbe Marathon and a Panaracer. They are extremely different tires. 

The Marathon is a MONSTER. It has one of the thickest treads I've ever seen on a road tire. Hopefully that will translate to no flats this winter. I went ahead and mounted the Marathon on the rear. I'll test the Panaracers later. Somebody posted a video about using toe straps to mount it. I didn't do that, but I had more trouble with the bead popping out than I've ever had with any bicycle tire. After I got the bead to about 75%, the remainder was relatively easy to get on without tools (Aerohead OC).

Now for the question of traction. 

My driveway is asphalt paved. A section goes under some fir trees and hits a maximum of about 17% incline. Hitting in the tire tracks, there is some light moss on the drive as well as light fir needles, and a few twigs. Out of the saddle standing, I usually hit it at either 41/19, or sometimes 41/17, and every stroke counts.

When the pavement is dry, I have no problems. However, with the old tires, 25mm Origin8 Elimin8ers, now with a bit of a flat spot, my rear wheel breaks loose frequently on the power strokes, and it spins for about a full stroke (half crank rotation). Too many of those, and I am stopped and off the bike.

With the NEW Marathon, I still occasionally break loose, but I usually regain traction after less than half a stroke (quarter crank rotation). Thus, it is much easier to climb the hill.

I'll try to test a New Gator Hardshell shortly.

I can't say how this translates into cornering traction, but so far I can say that I seem to get significantly better driving traction with the Marathon tire over the well worn Elimin8ers. Time will tell how the Marathon continues to perform once I get a few miles on it.


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## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

CliffordK said:


> .............
> I can't say how this translates into cornering traction, but so far I can say that I seem to get significantly better driving traction with the Marathon tire over the well worn Elimin8ers. Time will tell how the Marathon continues to perform once I get a few miles on it.


Apples and oranges. What is happening standing up on a 17% incline pumping on a 41/17 and spinning the rear wheel I don't think could translate into cornering traction because your weight distribution is drastically different.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

dcgriz said:


> Apples and oranges. What is happening standing up on a 17% incline pumping on a 41/17 and spinning the rear wheel I don't think could translate into cornering traction because your weight distribution is drastically different.


With the climb, most of the weight is on the rear wheel. For some bikes, it is hard to keep the front wheel on the ground. 

However, the risk on the climb is more annoying than anything else, and perhaps just falling over. 

Under ordinary circumstances, one needs two types of traction, stopping, and horizontal sliding.

The way the tire is exposed to the road may be different with different kinds of skids and slides. However, what I experienced is that once the wheel breaks loose, the slick tires didn't catch again. Perhaps the grooves and edges help catch the texture of the surface.


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## willstylez (Sep 15, 2011)

Srode said:


> I ride GP 4 Seasons all Winter - below freezing and no problems with not having tread. They grab fine in the rain too. I don't ride in the snow or ice.


+1 for Continental GP 4 Seasons. I've been running the 28mm version all summer & fall....& will rock them through the winter (sans snow). Awesome tire!


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

willstylez said:


> +1 for Continental GP 4 Seasons. I've been running the 28mm version all summer & fall....& will rock them through the winter (sans snow). Awesome tire!



And about as flat resistant a tire as I have ridden on. I got Paves this year to run through the winter instead. We will see how they compare. They do ride nicer than the All Season IMO., by a good bit.


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## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

CliffordK said:


> With the climb, most of the weight is on the rear wheel. For some bikes, it is hard to keep the front wheel on the ground.
> 
> However, the risk on the climb is more annoying than anything else, and perhaps just falling over.
> 
> ...


Supple tires and lower pressures do the best in helping to catch the texture on the road surface. Maybe the grooves help a bit, peripherally.

The more puncture protection you put on a tire, the more away you get from the tire suppleness. Simple trade-off like most everything else on a bicycle.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

dcgriz said:


> Supple tires and lower pressures do the best in helping to catch the texture on the road surface. Maybe the grooves help a bit, peripherally.


Assuming solid pavement, I think that's true. Around here, once it starts snowing and ice appears, they dump substantial amounts of sand along with the salt. It builds up as the winter goes on, so even on days when the snow has been completely cleared, you can hit patches of loose material along the shoulders, and especially in intersections where it gets pushed around by the traffic. IME, tires with a bit of tread help considerably with that. So once the first snow hits, I switch the winter commuting bike to cross-type tires.


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## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

JCavilia said:


> Assuming solid pavement, I think that's true. Around here, once it starts snowing and ice appears, they dump substantial amounts of sand along with the salt. It builds up as the winter goes on, so even on days when the snow has been completely cleared, you can hit patches of loose material along the shoulders, and especially in intersections where it gets pushed around by the traffic. IME, tires with a bit of tread help considerably with that. So once the first snow hits, I switch the winter commuting bike to cross-type tires.


I agree. Loose surface like sand needs the bite of a tread. Thankfully where I live snow fall is limited so Strada Bianca 30's are on my commuter year round. Snow on the ground sees my 29er and knobbies.


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## changingleaf (Aug 20, 2009)

Treads do help in wet and slush. They will not make a difference in the ice of course. Another nice feature of treads vs. slicks is that they do not collect a narrow film of water that sprays up vertically in front and behind you. I noticed this on group rides many years ago. If I'm going to ride behind somebody it's easy to find the rider with treads because the road spray he/she kicks up is way, way less.


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## 4slomo (Feb 11, 2008)

My experience with Gator Hardshell tires is that they don't provide much traction in wet pavement conditions. I've crashed twice in learning that lesson. My theory is that the rubber compound is harder than comparable tires, such as the GP4000s and GP4-Season, in addition to less supple layers.



CliffordK said:


> I'll try to test a New Gator Hardshell shortly.


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