# 11S Chain Install w/o UT-CN300



## icsloppl (Aug 25, 2009)

What success have people had using a "normal" chain tool to install 11 speed chains?

I really can't see, and don't particularly appreciate the need to buy a $200 tool to use my group and am looking for alternatives.

Thanks for the help... :aureola:


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## ericjacobsen3 (Apr 27, 2007)

Get a park CT-11 campy rivet peening tool for $45 online. So far so good for me after 3 weeks. I am sure campy would not warranty a chain breakage at the rivet and might threaten no warranty at all, but I am happy to have the $150 in my pocket. Don't know what Campy is thinking for the US where almost all sales are aftermarket online orders. I bet they would double sales if they did not demand the silly Campy tool.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*



icsloppl said:


> What success have people had using a "normal" chain tool to install 11 speed chains?
> 
> I really can't see, and don't particularly appreciate the need to buy a $200 tool to use my group and am looking for alternatives.
> 
> Thanks for the help... :aureola:


I only paid $140 for the Campy tool and have no regrets about it at all, since I've been using 11 speed since last November. I've got three bikes using 11 speed, so the purchase of the tool was a trivial expense compared to the cost of the 11 speed parts. In a real pinch you can use a SRAM 10 powerloc to join the chain.

An ordinary 10 speed tool will break the chain and can push the new pin into place, if you are very careful, but flaring the right end of the pin requires a special tool like Campy's or the one sold by Park. I've also read where a user bought the new Park 4.2 chain tool and blocked off the through-hole on the back side to use it as a flaring tool. 

Older chains tools may need a small modification. With the narrower chain width, the U-shaped support that holds the chain in place may push on the inner side plates and not allow the back of the chain to rest properly on the back of the jaw. If this is the case, a little filing to the side of support closest to the drive pin will fix that problem.

The trick to using an ordinary chain tool for pushing in the joining pin is to drap the chain over the BB shell to eliminate all tension on the chain or simply take the rear wheel off so the chain will hang loose. The pin must be installed from the left side. The park tool website shows the need to push down on the pin while it is being pushed in. There is a tendency for the pin to rise up and bend at the junction between the guide pin and poining pin. The Campy tool has a retaining clip to hold the chain down so this won't happen.


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## icsloppl (Aug 25, 2009)

Good info. Thanks for the help


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