# Weight info wanted - 105, Ultegra, DuraAce, Rival, Force, Red



## multirider

I'm thinking about purchasing a new Cannondale SuperSix EVO. They are offered with various groupsets at various price points. As always, weight is a criteria when choosing, but I can't seem to find info on the weight of the groupsets. Can someone point me to a listing of weights for the Shimano groupsets? For the SRAM groupsets? Thanks!


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## bruin11

Bikes at different price points are going to have other parts that are different besides the groupset which would contribute far more to weight gain . The differences in weight between them is negligible.


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## MMsRepBike

If you think the weight of a groupset matters than buy Sram Red.

/thread


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## multirider

bruin11 said:


> Bikes at different price points are going to have other parts that are different besides the groupset which would contribute far more to weight gain . The differences in weight between them is negligible.


I am very conscious of the fact that the other components of a bicycle have weight associated with them. That does not negate the importance of considering the weight of the groupset when making a decision about which model of bike to purchase.

"The differences in weight between them is negligible" -- "negligible" is a vague term. One person may think anything less than 100g is not worth spending money on, someone else may think 50g, etc. 

According to the info I found (shared in the link below), the difference between 105 and Ultegra is 330g. I'm confident at least 90% of riders who are concerned about weight would consider 330g to be VERY significant.

Since I live in Colorado and do a lot of climbing, I'm pretty concerned about weight. Carrying an extra 3/4 pound starts to take on significance on rides that include 5,000+ feet of climbing.

A fellow rider shared this in the Weight Weenie web site:


http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Component-Weights/cc-8.aspx

Statements like


> "If you think the weight of a groupset matters than buy Sram Red."


are overly simplistic and only work for those on an unlimited budget. I'm not in that category. SRAM Red would be great, but it's not on the menu for me, I'm further down the price pyramid.

I hope the link above helps others!


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## BikeLayne

Chain Reaction Bicycles sells groupsets and in the description they include the weights of the components individually. So you could add up the weight of the components that you feel apply and hopefully get a total weight.


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## TricrossRich

bruin11 said:


> Bikes at different price points are going to have other parts that are different besides the groupset which would contribute far more to weight gain . The differences in weight between them is negligible.


It always cracks me up when people say something like this.... I think a lot of people fail to realize just how much difference there can be in the weights of the various groups and how much that can affect bike weight as a whole. Obviously this depends on other or not you care about weight at all though. If you are concerned with weight at all though, you have to realize that there isn't any one part that will make your bike LIGHT.... it is the combination of all the parts, saving a few grams here and few grams there that results in a light weight bike.

As an example... My Venge weighs 15.7 pounds, size 54 with DA9000. I have a friend that has the exact same bike, size and also has DA9000... his weighs 16.7. To the naked eye, they look exactly the same.


To the OP.... here's one of the best lists that I've found.

http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Component-Weights/cc-8.aspx


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## bruin11

TricrossRich said:


> It always cracks me up when people say something like this.... I think a lot of people fail to realize just how much difference there can be in the weights of the various groups and how much that can affect bike weight as a whole. Obviously this depends on other or not you care about weight at all though. If you are concerned with weight at all though, you have to realize that there isn't any one part that will make your bike LIGHT.... it is the combination of all the parts, saving a few grams here and few grams there that results in a light weight bike.
> 
> As an example... My Venge weighs 15.7 pounds, size 54 with DA9000. I have a friend that has the exact same bike, size and also has DA9000... his weighs 16.7. To the naked eye, they look exactly the same.
> 
> 
> To the OP.... here's one of the best lists that I've found.
> 
> Component Weights


Like that pound really makes a difference. LOL


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## TricrossRich

bruin11 said:


> Bikes at different price points are going to have other parts that are different besides the groupset which would contribute far more to weight gain . The differences in weight between them is negligible.





bruin11 said:


> Like that pound really makes a difference. LOL


You realize you're in the weight forum right? LOL

I also prefaced my statement with the fact that if you're someone that cares about weight, then obviously its a concern, if you're someone that doesn't, then move along. Having less weight, makes you faster... period. This is a scientific fact that isn't up for debate. The debate lies in whether or not its financially appropriate for someone to spend thousands to save a few grams... that's really not for anyone to decide other than the person who's spending the money.

The point I was trying to make was that my friend and I spent essentially the same amount of money, and neither of us broke the bank, yet my bike came out a pound lighter. Only because I paid a little more attention to details.


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## Drew Eckhardt

bruin11 said:


> Like that pound really makes a difference. LOL


It's 20 seconds towards your one-hour Mt. Diablo t-shirt, or for each hour off the front to a road race win with a mountain top finish.

At 5'10" and 144 pounds I might be 5-7 pounds over my ideal racing weight (ribs and sternum stick out, but abs don't have good definition and my veins aren't visible until I get dehydrated) although any more than that needs to come off the bike.


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## deviousalex

Drew Eckhardt said:


> It's 20 seconds towards your one-hour Mt. Diablo t-shirt, or for each hour off the front to a road race win with a mountain top finish.
> 
> At 5'10" and 144 pounds I might be 5-7 pounds over my ideal racing weight (ribs and sternum stick out, but abs don't have good definition and my veins aren't visible until I get dehydrated) although any more than that needs to come off the bike.


Mount Diablo is not very steep for the bottom 3/4ths of it. Adopt a more aerodynamic position and you'll get that 20 seconds easily.

I'm 5'6" and 148 so...yeah....


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## TricrossRich

deviousalex said:


> Mount Diablo is not very steep for the bottom 3/4ths of it. Adopt a more aerodynamic position and you'll get that 20 seconds easily.
> 
> I'm 5'6" and 148 so...yeah....


and let me guess, you ride a 30 lbs. bike?


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## deviousalex

TricrossRich said:


> and let me guess, you ride a 30 lbs. bike?


Nah, slightly over 15 lbs with race wheels (used to be under but then DA parts started failing and I replaced them with Ultegra ones) and about 16.5lbs with my training wheels.

My new ride will be same wheels but Ultegra Di2 instead of DA because I wanted to try electronic shifting and not break the bank.

I'm just pointing out that position even on hills (and even on steep ones if there is a headwind) can be an important factor.


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## multirider

deviousalex said:


> Mount Diablo is not very steep for the bottom 3/4ths of it. Adopt a more aerodynamic position and you'll get that 20 seconds easily.


Yet another post that is essentially a waste of electrons, bandwidth, and time spent reading it. People who want to go fast have already thought of that and already do that. Getting as aero as possible when it matters (> about 17-18mph) makes sense. But so does making choices that reduce the weight of your bike. And your body. And selecting tires with low rolling resistance. Lots of factors in trying to go fast. 

Someone will likely post the tired old cliche that "It's not the bike, it's the engine" -- whatever. I train hard and smart do everything I can to improve the engine. On top of that, I want a bike that is light as possible given the $$$ I'm willing to spend.

Since this is the weight forum and the question was about weight of components, it just doesn't make sense to me for people to post inane comments along the lines of "weight doesn't matter". If it doesn't matter to you, there are lots of other conversations going on all over rbr. Some may be about topics you care about and can contribute to in a meaningful way.


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## deviousalex

multirider said:


> Yet another post that is essentially a waste of electrons, bandwidth, and time spent reading it. People who want to go fast have already thought of that and already do that. Getting as aero as possible when it matters (> about 17-18mph) makes sense. But so does making choices that reduce the weight of your bike. And your body. And selecting tires with low rolling resistance. Lots of factors in trying to go fast.
> 
> Someone will likely post the tired old cliche that "It's not the bike, it's the engine" -- whatever. I train hard and smart do everything I can to improve the engine. On top of that, I want a bike that is light as possible given the $$$ I'm willing to spend.
> 
> Since this is the weight forum and the question was about weight of components, it just doesn't make sense to me for people to post inane comments along the lines of "weight doesn't matter". If it doesn't matter to you, there are lots of other conversations going on all over rbr. Some may be about topics you care about and can contribute to in a meaningful way.


Don't worry about the waste of bandwidth. I work for a networking company so the more bandwidth used the more products we sell.

I am not in the "weight is irrelevant" camp. I was pointing out that even though you are climbing it doesn't make aero irrelevant. Aero is still relevant at speeds under 17mph, even more if there is a breeze. My post was in the context of Drew's post which mentions a specific climb, Mt Diablo. Hence why I quoted it.

If you think having a lighter bike is worth it, go for it. I agree that lighter bikes feel faster, are marginally faster. It's up to you to pick the weight/cost tradeoff. If weight is your main goal go for SRAM Red 22.


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## robt57

I have this on my computer and believe it to be accurate mostly..

Ultegra 6700 Ultegra 6800 105 5800
Chainset 791g 765g 736g
STI Levers 447g 425g 486g
Rear Drlr 189g 195g 234g
Frnt Drlr 89g 89g 89g
Brke Calipers 317g 335g 378g
Chain 267g 253g 253g
Cassette 209g 212g 269g
Total 2309g 2274g 2445g


7900=2052g / 7800=2181g


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## Srode

robt57 said:


> I have this on my computer and believe it to be accurate mostly..
> 
> Ultegra 6700 Ultegra 6800 105 5800
> Chainset 791g 765g 736g
> STI Levers 447g 425g 486g
> Rear Drlr 189g 195g 234g
> Frnt Drlr 89g 89g 89g
> Brke Calipers 317g 335g 378g
> Chain 267g 253g 253g
> Cassette 209g 212g 269g
> Total 2309g 2274g 2445g
> 
> 
> 7900=2052g / 7800=2181g


The 5800 crank is lighter than the 6800? Interesting


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## deviousalex

Component Weights

834g according to this.


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## bryon

This is the weights of 5800 group I weighed before installing on my bike in Dec.
740g Crank, 50/34 w/ 172.5 arms 
488g Shifters
228g SS Rear Derailer
106g Front Derailer 34.9 clamp style
390g Brakeset with pads
270g Chain before cutting 5 links off
316g Cassette in 11-32 gearing
76g BB shell English Threaded
Total of 2614grams or 5.75lbs.


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## Srode

5800 50/34 crank 175 arms weighs 754g on my scale with no BB.


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## Camilo

go to the weightweenies.starbike.com forum.

Sign up for an account and then you can see the most recent actual user-inputted weights.

Best site, by far, for actual documented unbiased weights.

You might have to add some numbers because I doubt there'll be "groupset" weights. Especially because, for a true weight weenie, you'll have to know crank arm length, chain ring size, cassette size. The other stuff will all be the same, but those three things can add a couple of ounces.

Bah to those of you that brought non-weight weenie issues into this. It makes absolutely no differnce to the guy's question whether stuff is "just a little heavier" or "less aero". Some of us just like go go as light as we can afford. No reason other than that, and no need to justify,


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## farva

If you look at the $ to weight ratio, sram rival group w/force or higher crank is hard to beat


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## Dg designs

farva said:


> If you look at the $ to weight ratio, sram rival group w/force or higher crank is hard to beat


Red 22 cranks can be found for under $350 if you look hard enough. when i went to them from the FSA boat anchor i had it saved nearly pound! My next bike will be Rival disk that i will carry my Red cranks and Red wifi over to.


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## wesb321

Avoid Rival if at all possible. The crankset is flexy, the FD cage is downright dangerous (I had 2), both RD's I tried warped and you get some ghost shifting in sprints or out of the saddle climbing. I have had to warranty the same shifter 6 times in 13 months now. I finally upgraded EVERYTHING to Force aside from the shifters. Force is way better and safer all around but the threads\bolts for anchoring the wires to the derailers strip\cross thread super easy. My knees are totally scarred from Rival parts failing during hard rides. The Rival hood covers are pretty soft and prone to ripping, rubbing alcohol is a must when swapping out a cable etc. 

2 cents


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