# help - seatpost is moving



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I have just finished my 2011 SLR01.

I can hold the saddle and the seatpost have a slight play and move left and right and does make a creak. I can't hear any noises when riding but this is bothering me the saddle can move.

When I took out the seatpost and turn the 6mm bolt to lock the polymer, it doesn't move out a whole alot, is there a way to adjust this so the polymer is tighter.

Do I have a bad frame or seatpost.. or is that why you guys added tape to the seatpost to make things tighter.


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## specialized2k10 (Jun 26, 2010)

did you try tightening the block at the bottom to make the rubber a bit more snug when going into the seatrtube?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

specialized2k10 said:


> did you try tightening the block at the bottom to make the rubber a bit more snug when going into the seatrtube?


Not yet. The bolt on the bottom of the seatpost right.
I thought that is what it does. I am assuming 1/4 turn at a time and see?


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## specialized2k10 (Jun 26, 2010)

Yea I meant bolt instead of block. Tighten the bolt and see how snug it's fitting. I make to where I have to press down on the saddle a bit to get the post all the way down. From what someone told me the 6mm bolt will then pull up on the bolt when in the lock position which will cause the rubber block to expand and create and tighter fit. Hope it's solved.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

OK I took the post out and adjusted the bolt, I could just turn it by finger.
1/8 turn at a time.
I made it so it is tight inserting the seatpost (tapped into the right height).

It seems much better now, when I turn the lock bolt it has more resistance than before.
I need to borrow some kapton tape.


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## specialized2k10 (Jun 26, 2010)

I have a piece of screen protector there. Its width is perfect fit.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

specialized2k10 said:


> Yea I meant bolt instead of block. Tighten the bolt and see how snug it's fitting. I make to where I have to press down on the saddle a bit to get the post all the way down. From what someone told me the 6mm bolt will then pull up on the bolt when in the lock position which will cause the rubber block to expand and create and tighter fit. Hope it's solved.


Yes. Also the post and inside of the seat tube should be clean and dry, no lube or carbon friction paste. I use two layers of Kapton tape on the back side of the seat post, just wide enough to wrap partway around radius of the rear corners. I only have it at the top extending from the where the top of the seat tube is downward about 3 cm.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

looigi said:


> Yes. Also the post and inside of the seat tube should be clean and dry, no lube or carbon friction paste. I use two layers of Kapton tape on the back side of the seat post, just wide enough to wrap partway around radius of the rear corners. I only have it at the top extending from the where the top of the seat tube is downward about 3 cm.


Is the carbon friction paste a bad thing, I think CC prepped the frame by putting some inside the seattube and seatpost. It also supplied with a big packet of FSA assembly paste. 
I used a little because it seemed like it was slipping, but it maybe because my polymer was too loose initially.

only for the polyer part I wiped it clean so it can get best contact.


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## twin001 (Jul 24, 2011)

I'm having the exact opposite problem. 2011 BMC SL01, seatpost won't budge now that I put the "screen protectors" on the seat mast in accordance with the BMC owners manual (I used the ones that came with the bike). Anyone have a solution on how to move the seat without cracking the frame?


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Ok this is the deal ok? If you put the screen protectors (polyurethane clear tape) in the wrong place it will continue creaking and the seatpost wont fit! 

Take the seatpost out

Take the tape out.

Clean really well the seatpost and the seattube using a rag. (dont use anything like water or cleaning agents)

Cut a strip of that screen protector and put it in the back of the seatpost, around the area that touch the seat tube, thats where the sound comes from.maybe 2x5 cm will do just fine. Obviously try to get like 1 to 0.5 cm of the tape showing up just in case you need to move the seatpost up or down in the future, then you dont have to move the tape.

Put some grease in the top of the seatpost, go like 1 inch deep into the seattube, some guys use carbon assembly paste. Your call, personally i use just plain grease, Is just a scent of grease not half of the grease can ok?

Put the seatpost in place, try to put all your weight in the back of the seat to test, probably wont creak no more.

The creak comes from the contact area between the back of the seatpost and the seat tube. Another detail, there are different calipers of polyurethane tape and usually after a few months needs to be changed. A friend of mine sent me a sample of one made by 3m that was more like a rubber, super tough, never have seen even marks or traces of going bad ever, so far 9 months and is perfect.

If the seatpost slides down, is because the wedge needs adjustment, basically tight the bolt 1/4 of a turn at a time and test.

Of the seatpost still creacks then add some tape at the sides. Obviously if the seatpost doesnt fit then add grease or get thinner tape. Dont use electrical tape, that thing wont work and probably the seatpost will get stuck in there forever, too thick.

If the seatpost rocks to the sides A LOT!!! then probably the frame is to small, the seatpost has a height where it works the best and if rocks too much to the sides is because is way too high. The god thing is that with carbon the tolerances are better than with aluminum then the seatpost fits better than ever before.

Good luck.


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## eljimberino (Nov 29, 2011)

Hi

If I push and pull really hard on the stem, it moves a tiny bit. 

There is no noise nor does it move while riding. 

Should I be worried?


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## eljimberino (Nov 29, 2011)

oh the irony

after reading this thread, i took the post out and cleaned it. NOW its making a noise.


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Are u talking about the seatpost??

If the streampost is too high it will move to the sides..if too high, close to the limit, is clear that the frame size is too small and that would be something to be worry about.




eljimberino said:


> Hi
> 
> If I push and pull really hard on the stem, it moves a tiny bit.
> 
> ...


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## jjcools (Jun 28, 2011)

My post keeps getting stuck! It won't budge at all. I used carbon paste and still the same. I never had the problem on my SLX01. 

I am also looking at a GF, does it have the same post issues or the clamp. Can't remember.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

With a stream post, the post and inside of the seat tube should be completely clean. No lube, friction paste or anything else. The screw on the bottom of the seatpost needs to be adjusted so that the expansion plug slides in easily. Too loose and it won't grab, too tight and it gets stuck. I find that if I haven't removed my seatpost in a long while and it seems stuck, a little whack downward on the saddle frees it up.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I have to report mine is doing ok with the kapton tape front and back. The marking settle by 1mm everytime I set the height but then doesn't go down any further.

I have ridden some very rough roads without issue.

I just tap the seatpost up and down when adjusting the height.


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## bravosbravos (Mar 4, 2008)

Be careful tightening the adjuster bolt too much... my 2011 SL01 cracked yesterday, both the streampost and seat-tube. Tightening that bolt does help stop creaking and play, but beware overtightening, as that whole area of the frame seems to be a weak point. Mine split right down the back of the seat-tube during a normal ride.


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