# Merckx Team SC + Campy Hiddenset = annoying?



## 10kman (Nov 20, 2002)

Have an 04 Merckx Team SC, and from the very first day I built it up, the Campy Hiddenset has given me issues. It seems like it just comes loose for some reason, I think it's the plastic steerer tube wedges that are in there, they must compress or something after a few hundred miles.

So, I'm annoyed with it, and don't want to adjust my headset again. 

Frame requires an integrated headset (curse these things). Can I just pop in any old integrated headset, or are they somehow made for specific frames? 

Any recs on something I can just "set and let" for months to come?

Thanks,

10k


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Stem slipping?*

The situation you describe is most often due to the stem slipping on the steerer due to insufficient clamping force for the friction of the stem/tube interface. You might consider marking the fit or carefully measuring the distance from the top of the stem to the top of the steerer tube when you first clamp the stem, and then do it again after things have loosened up. If the stem is slipping and you feel like you've clamped it tight enough, consider whether you have the right size stem clamp or consider roughing up the stem/steerer interfaces with a little fine sandpaper.


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## 10kman (Nov 20, 2002)

*I dunno.....*

I dunno about that. I torqued the stem down to the level indicated and don't *think* it's moving. Carbon steerer tube could be the problem child, I will mark and check.

I do still want to know about the compatibility of the Integrated headsets though (for the peanut gallery).

Thanks,

10k


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*possible problems..*

An integrated headset should stay in adjustment all season without readjustment. One of the most common problems is failure to adjust the bearings properly in the first place. You can't use the old method of rocking the bike with the front brake clamped to feel for play. There is usually a recommend tension for the top cap bolt, but I prefer to tighten the top cap until a noticable drag is felt while turning the fork, then back off the bolt a small amount to eliminate the drag (probably no more than 1/4 turn). After the steering tube clamp bolts on the stem are tightened, the top cap can be tightended a bit more to be sure it doesn't come loose.

Another possible problem is failure to have a gap between the top of the steering tube and the top cap. If there's no gap, then it's impossible to adjust the bearings properly.

There's also the possibility that the stem does not remain tight on the steering tube, If the steerer is carbon, be sure the internal "compression plug" is installed in the proper location and bearing tightly against the inside of the steerer.

As for the type of headset, it has to be a campy compatible model, since each design has a different bearing diameter and bearing seat angle. FSA makes a campy compatible model. 

If you get a new headset, better check those bearing seats carefully to be sure the bearings don't rock from side to side, indicating worn seats. This problem may be corrected, but only with an expensive cutting tool that few shops will have.

Park Tool has all the info about integrated headsets.

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml


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## bigdeal (Jul 24, 2002)

*as usual, c-40 comes through with great advice*



C-40 said:


> Another possible problem is failure to have a gap between the top of the steering tube and the top cap. If there's no gap, then it's impossible to adjust the bearings properly.


right on, echo c-40's comment. I adjusted my headset on my Sc probably 5 times this past year. Just before Gift-mas I added a 1 cm spacer between the stem and cap, since then it's been about 600 miles and 0 adjusting needed!


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## MerckxMad (Jan 22, 2004)

*Same problem*

I had the same problem with my '02 Team SC. My fork would bind up a few rides after a headset adjustment. LBS showed me that lower bearing set was not sitting flush in the seat. The wrench chalked it up to a defect in the headset and not a problem with the head tube. After replacing the headset, I haven't had a problem. You need to adjust the headset as per C-40's recommendation, but be careful not to go ape with adjustment bolt. Good luck.


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## 10kman (Nov 20, 2002)

Yeah I tried out the adding a spacer thing, that wasn't the issue, I had THAT part of it adjusted okay.

What seems to happen is that it just scrunches up those plastic things, rather than actually putting pressure on the steerer as it should. It'll get tight, seem adjusted, then pop right back to "wobbly". 

I'll check tonight after work.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*try an FSA....*

I looked at the campy hiddenset instructions and the only part that's plastic is the steering tube guide for the top section. Nothing made of plastic should be affecting the bearing adjustment. If it is, something's wrong. No more than a headset costs, I'd try an FSA. Better than ruining an expensive frame.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=34&pid=183

Getting the old crown race off might be a pain, but the new FSA should have a split crown race that requires no tools to install.


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## 10kman (Nov 20, 2002)

Thanks for the link C-40. There is not any plastic in the actual body of the headset, it's the compression piece. If I recall, there is one, on the upper side of the headset. 

It's also incredibly tight on the steerer, and it makes any fine adjusting a chore. Who knows. 

I'll have a look at the FSA. 

10k


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## Rusty Coggs (Jan 28, 2004)

*Plastic thingy*



10kman said:


> Thanks for the link C-40. There is not any plastic in the actual body of the headset, it's the compression piece. If I recall, there is one, on the upper side of the headset.
> 
> It's also incredibly tight on the steerer, and it makes any fine adjusting a chore. Who knows.
> 
> ...


There is a similar one in my record threadless HS and it isn't an issue.


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