# Riding round Athens, Greece



## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

I had a pretty hectic week back in September where I had to be in Genova on mon-tues and Athens on thursday-fri. I brought my bike along and arranged it so that I would have a free Sunday in Genova and a free Saturday in Athens to ride. You may have seen the report back from Italy <a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=41790">here</a>. This post is about the ride I did around the Attican peninsula.

My original plan was to take the train out to Korinthos and do a ride around the Pelopenese but the Athens RR station that serves Korinthos was undergoing some major work and the only way to catch the train would have been to head out to the other side of town on the far west. Instead, I decided to ride south-east out of the Syntagma-square area where our hotel was situated and ride the coastal road on down to the Temple of Poseidon in Sounia and back up the east side of Attika before popping over the Penteli mountain back down into Athens see map below).

Of course, when I explained my plans my plans to our Greek hosts, they said that riding anywhere in Greece wasn't really a wise move. I think they had a pool going on when and where I would bite it... not very reassuring.

Athens is still polluted and very, very traffic-y. And, in a major contrast with Genova, the drivers were in *no* way going to cut a cyclist any slack. I took the major road out of Syntagma down towards the beach-towns of Glyfada and ....

Vouliagmeni -- home of......

anyone? anyone?

Oh come on, you guys must know that Paris Lastris's (Paris Hilton's ex-fiance) dad is mayor of Vouliagmeni!!

In any case, Paris (Hilton, that is) will never own the beach-front property her ex will one day inherit. It isn't really that nice anyway.

The first shots are of the coastal road and from the coastal road on the way down to Sounia. I've got to say that until I hit Saronida, the riding was pretty sucky -- and dangerous!

On the coastal road, I witnessed a violent accident (neither car hit their brakes). Pretty icky -- I don't think the one driver of the car that got t-boned lived. I was one of the first on the scene and a few moments later, a bunch of other people stopped. they knew first-aid, as I do, put they were able to speak greek, as I cannot. I felt pretty helpless waiting for the cops to come and I couldn't even give them a report as they spoke no english or french. While I waited, I took the picture below -- I felt a little voyeuristic, but then again, I was in Greece to talk about transport policy so this a bit like a "work" picture.

Surprisingly, I saw quite a few riders out -- maybe 10-15 in one' s and two's -- all heading back the other way. They must have left pretty early.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Rr#2*

After Saronida, the riding became much nicer. The road narrowed, the cars thinned out and I felt like I could quit flinching everytime I heard the acceleration of a speeding car closing fast. The theme of these next few pictures is "blue". As in Aegean blue. The color of the water in Greece is stunning! The second to last picture is of one of the many road-side shrines raised in memory of the dead -- many people die in car crashes in Greece.

The final picture is of a swimming cove I happened upon when I stopped to take a picture. I looked down and saw that all of the people sunning themselves were nude and thought to myself, "here's a place I could go for a swim w/out getting my (bike) kit wet". I took off my shoes, scrambled on down w/bike in tow, removed evry other bit of clothes I had on and plunged in for a very refreshing swim. I spent a while drying off in the sun afterwards, had a gel and off I went in search of Poseidon's temple.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Rr#3*

I passed through a few villages and saw quite a few nice houses that I wouldn't mind vacationing in. I also came across a few little road-side churches whose bleached white walls stood out starkly against the deep azure sky. The perfect setting for some pictures of my trusty travel bike!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Rr#4*

After riding through some coastal olive groves, I turned a bend in the road and there it was, Poseidon's temple up on the hill on which it has stood for over two millenia. Pretty neat sight. After a stop at the temple food shop (ahhh peach juice and sparkling water, the poor-man's cytomax!), I was off back up the coast to Rafina (picture of the port in Lavrio, I think). What do I remember of this stretch -- lots of beatiful scenery (well, after the refinery in Lavrio, that is) and it being so hot that I didn't want to stop to take any pictures!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Rr#5*

Near Rafina, I cut back in to the west towards Athens.

It was starting to get late-ish and I kept having a hard time finding my way on some of the small roads I was trying to stick to in order to avoid the 4-lane "state" roads. At one point, I needed to ask directions (again!) and stopped in front of a farm nestled in the olive groves. I saw that there was a man who appeared to be sleeping on a chair out front -- I felt pretty bad that the sound of my pedals unclipping awoke him with a start. In any case, in my non-existant greek, I asked him how to get to the next town I was heading for. He, in his non-existant english told me exactly how to get there -- I think. In any case, I'm pretty sure that I understood that when you get to the "very steep road going up the hill" (as mimed with some very dramatic hand gestures), what I wanted to do is "not go there, instead, take a right and follow the small road in between the row of trees (again, the hand gestures miming a row of upright trees). After getting my directions, I thanked him profusely (I do know how to say excuse me, please and thank you in Greek!) and was getting ready to head off when he starts gesturing for me to come inside the courtyard. I follow him in and sit down under the shade tree where he gestures for me to sit and he does the same. he calls on someone and an old woman (wife? Mother?) comes out with a bottle and some glasses. He serves me a sweet wine (which I think I understand he flavours with honey and figs) and almonds and we go on talking to (past?) each other. I understood that his children,, except for one all live in Athens but come here on the week-ends. I think he understood that I live in France and race bikes (not professionally -- mimed by pretending to turn my pockets out in the international sign of being pennyless!). What a really pleasant interlude. 

All liquored up on a few glasses of the sweet wine, I finally hit the road again. It's much less hot now and I climb up and over the Penteli mountain and into Athens more affluent North-western neighborhoods. I shoot down the bus lane on Kifisias Avenue and end up back at the hotel. Several hours and slightly over 215 kms later.

The pictures below are of the last bit of riding I did in the countryside between Rafina and Athens -- including a few pictures of things I ate while out riding: Barbary Figs (Cactus fruit), real figs (deee-liscious!) and grapes... yum!

That night, I wasn't feeling the Ouzo -- not one bit!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Rr#6*

Finally, to close off this virtual escapade in Greece, a few shots of things I saw in Athens (when not riding).

Hope you enjoyed this get-away!

A+

Philippe


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## zeytin (May 15, 2004)

*Great report*

That was a great report. I love the Med region so beautiful. I love the story with the old man and the courtyard. Those are the type of experiences I love best about traveling. Thank you for sharing.


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## theBreeze (Jan 7, 2002)

*Lovely, just lovely!*

That's what I like so much about this web site, seeing other parts of the world in reports like ths one. Cycling is such a great way to meet the locals no matter where you are.

The photos of the figs are almost pornographic. Deee-lish!


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

*[email protected] you are right.*



theBreeze said:


> The photos of the figs are almost pornographic. Deee-lish!


nmnmndm


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Lol*



theBreeze said:


> The photos of the figs are almost pornographic. Deee-lish!


If you like figs as much as I do, the shot is not *almost* pornographic, it *is* fig porn!

Glad you like these reports--

next trips will be Izu Peninsula, Japan in Novemebr, Barcelona (December) and Baku Azerbaijian in the spring.... at least those are the trips I know about right now.

A+

Philippe


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

philippec said:


> If you like figs as much as I do, the shot is not *almost* pornographic, it *is* fig porn!
> 
> Glad you like these reports--
> 
> ...


I spent some time in Crete two years during a port call (navy). Looking at the roads and watching the drivers made the decision not to ride easy. Other than side streets in cities, I didn't see any cyclists, and certainly no recreational riders. I did gain an appreciation for raw octopus and raki. Did they have raki on the Greek mainland? They make it with the grape skins and other stuff left over after the press for wine making. Greek tequila/everclear. Don't smoke while you drink it.


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## rockstar (Oct 29, 2003)

Okay...I know I'm bringing out the dead, but I'm getting ancy about my holiday in Greece. Or more accurately about training on my holiday in Greece!!!
If anyone can help me with info on cycling in Greece please post, and pm me!
Thanks ,
Rocky


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## jd3 (Oct 8, 2004)

More than likely I'll never get to see some of the parts of the world that you do. Thanks for letting me see it through you eyes. I know it takes alot of time to edit and post these reports.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I've never been overseas. I've considered France, Spain & especially Italy. I might just change my mind and put Greece at the top of my list.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

Quite honestly, the riding was a bit hairy at times but that is b/c the Athens region is pretty densly populated - and getting into and out of the city made me reminisce about Paris rush-hour traffic wistfully. That said, the scenery is outstanding, the people wonderful and the food.... well, you'll see for yourself.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

For cycling? France and Italy, by a long shot!


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## P.D.E. (Oct 15, 2006)

Nice trip report Philippe, thanks. I spent a couple months in Athens recently and did that route to Sounion & Penteli quite a few times. I also thought the cycling north and northwest of Athens was pretty good too. Did you try Tatoiou rd? It's a beautiful road which goes through a protected forest and is only about 20 minutes city riding from the Kiffisia subway station. The Parnitha climb was also really good but farther away from subway stop.


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## R2D2 (Jun 14, 2008)

Great trip you made. I live in Greece/Athens since june 07, working in the German Embassy (I'm German!!). I know the area and the danger during riding a bike. Your pictures and the story are very well and intresting.


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## ilmaestro (May 3, 2008)

great pics. tnx for posting.


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## rockstar (Oct 29, 2003)

Just a follow up...Greece is outstanding and the potential for cycling is unlimited! The traffic in and around Athens can be brutal, but if you are used to commuting in traffic it will be no problem. The drivers were much more respectful of cyclist than they are here in the States.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Immensely enjoyed your pictures and trip report :thumbsup: 

I've taken several, non-cycling trips to Greece, and I'd be terrified to cycle solo in the Athens metropolitan region! So much dense and crazy traffic.

OTOH, the Peloponneses region could be wonderful for cycling, especially in springtime ... smaller towns & villages, quieter roads, many stunning seacoast and mountain vistas.


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

Very cool. Many of our neighbors have vacationed in Greece, and they all come back commenting how crazy the driving is there.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

Ahhh.... I love Greece! Thanks for the report. You are certainly a brave man to ride in Athens and the suburbia. Amusingly, the fig pic made my heart miss a beat (I adore figs).

Once again, eharistume poly


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

Wow - good to see that people are dredging through the archives! Cycling in Athens was only marginally more difficult than cycling in Paris -- which is to say not that bad. I still remember that fig...nom,nom!


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## MG537 (Jul 25, 2006)

Thanks for the pics Phillipe. It sure brings back memories of the early 80's as young teenager riding along that same route around Lagonisi and Saronida, on my old Peugeot all steel and no helmets.That bike must've weighed a ton.
I'm glad you're OK riding around Athens. Rule of thumb is, the bigger vehicles always have priority,since they can do the most damage.
I remember going up a hill (Ymittos on your map) and this car comes out of one of the side streets cuts me off. Why the hell would he wait that extra 2 seconds to let me pass (GOING UP HILL!!!!).

Thanks again.


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