# Road riding/commuting with 26 Vs. 700c (29er) wheels



## rc51kid (Nov 8, 2010)

I have this older Trek MTB that I built up for city/commuting duty. I have added 1x9 gearing on it since the picture and made numerous other changes. Recently I am in the process of adding some Ebay and parts box parts. I switched to a threadless 1 1/8 fork and added drop bars with brifters, Cantis, Ulterga 53,39 cranks, 105 front derailer and trying to find a good Ultegra derailler for the rear. I also fitted some nice Panaracer 26x1.25s that can run 100psi. It’s all still being built so I haven’t ridden it in this form yet.
Lately I have been thinking about switching it to 700c wheels. I have seen some used sets for around $125 and there is plenty of room in the frame. The frame is steel so any slight hub difference should just flex. The only tricky part would be finding Cantis that have enough adjustment to reach the rim for breaks. But that’s it. 
Another option would be spending the money on a Nashbar X frame, swapping parts and buy the used 700c wheels. It would bolt together easier but I almost think the old steel Trek might ride better than the Al. frame. I imagine it would run about $200-250 for the frame fork combo. Not to bad for cost but is it really any better than the Trek with 700c wheels?
So my real question is, will 700c wheels be much better than the 26 with the good tires like I have? Is it worth the trouble or are 26 inch wheels with good tires plenty fast? I have basically three options, 1) Trek with 26 inch wheels, 2) Trek with 700c wheels fitted, 3) new frame, fork fitted with 700c wheels.


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## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

Paul Problem Solver brakes would make this work. The question I have is why? You can get some great tires for 26 inch wheels. I'd stick with what you have.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> So my real question is,
> 
> 1. will 700c wheels be much better than the 26 with the good tires like I have?
> 
> ...


1. No

2. No

3. Yes

Roll that sucker out the door and hit the street. Perfect urban vehicle.


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## rc51kid (Nov 8, 2010)

JCavilia said:


> 1. No
> 
> 2. No
> 
> ...


Thanks, it will be coming together in the next week or two with the brifters and all. I will post some pics when it is done. The idea is that I am trying to only buy quality (but budget)parts that I would be happy to have on a roady or cyclocross frame. That way if in the future I “come across” a good frame I can swap everything over. Until then I will ride what I got.


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## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

If you put brifters on, I would recommend using a road front derailleur as well. In my experience, they shift much better, regardless of chainring size.


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## nonsleepingjon (Oct 18, 2002)

JCavilia said:


> 1. No
> 
> 2. No
> 
> ...


+1. I have high pressure slick tires on my old MTB and it works great for commuting. I actually prefer it to my road bike since it can take a rear rack and bags and takes the bumps better.


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## bignose (Sep 15, 2005)

I'd leave it as is honestly. 26ers with nice tires work just dandy.


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## axlenut (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi, I can't tell what model that is on this old crappy monitor but I have an older Trek 7000 aluminium frame without any suspension and the bike gives up very little on the road. I have Continental Town & country 1.9 tires on it - they work great on pavement, corner great and can even go off road by letting off some pressure. The bike is a lot of fun to ride and I love being able to explore some dirt trail I might find while riding it on the road. Makes a great all around bike and I would not change anything on it.

Later, Axlenut


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

If you've already got a road bike with 700c Wheels and you've already got a 29er and this is yer last 26" bike and you just want to consolidate to one wheel size, then go for it.

Otherwise, there's no real benefit.


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## Dale Brigham (Aug 23, 2002)

*26ers are the "new" 29ers*

Just kidding! I, too, had a lonely old hardtail mtb that I had not ridden for years, and it's now my go-to gravel road, bike trail, and roughstuff bike. It started life as a Kona Hot that had a Marzocchi fork and XT drivetrain in its mtb racing days. The old warhorse has a whole new lease on life in its latest incarnation. 

First, the Marzocchi boinger was shed, a Kona rigid fork taking its place. Next, the cogs and changers were resorbed for a singlespeed way of life. It soon got tired of being left behind by its multi-geared pals, subsequently growing first a 2X8, and then a 3X8 drivetrain. The riser bars evolved into WTB mountain drops, and the Rabbit-Fire (patent pending) shifters morphed into Pauls thumbies perched on the bar tops near the stem. Fenders sprouted up over the tires, and a small front rack and bag appeared anteriorly. Wheels remained the original Mavics with XT hubs, but the knobby tires smoothed into Conti Travel Contacts, 26X1.75. When the sun goes down, two headlights pop open up front, and the red blinky on its tail starts to flash.

It's fun to help these old warriors "evolve" into something new. Have great fun with your newly hatched steed!

Dale


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## BianchiJoe (Jul 22, 2005)

I commute on my 24" BMX all the time. I'm faster than my road bike on some days, since I can jump curbs.


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## m_s (Nov 20, 2007)

For a road machine, I would personally prefer the lower bottom bracket height of the 26" wheels with slicks to 700c. If your set on 700c, then get the nashbar frame...then you can build that one back up into a singlespeed. 2 bikes instead of 1...bike obsessed logic at its finest!


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## rmsmith (Feb 15, 2007)

The folks at Co-Motion now make an Expedition Touring Bicycle w/26" wheels:
http://co-motion.com/index.php/singles/pangea


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## |3iker (Jan 12, 2010)

I converted my hardtail mtb to a rigid fork with drop bars and road brifters.
Works great. 
A few challenges were ensuring the rear V-brake work with the level travel of my brifter. Therefore i avoided getting canti brake which I just hate nor using fandangled devices like Travel Agents. The front disc mech didn't cause trouble at all.
Also I had to switch out the mtb FD for a road FD.
That's about it. The parts were sourced from what's available in my "Not used" parts bin.
26" with slicks roll plenty fast with 48/38/28 for commuting duties. And with 1.5" width, I can subject the bike to various surfaces that otherwise would've been avoided with my road bike.


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## saf-t (Sep 24, 2008)

My winter commuter is an old hardtail aluminum Schwinn with drop bars and bar ends. It's perfect for what I need, and I've used it in the past as an alternate road bike when my good one was down.


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## AFenvy (Nov 19, 2010)

My commuter was a converted mountain bike for a long time. It rode much smoother than my current road bike, it was like a luxury car. You never felt the road conditions (and they suck where I live) and I had the ability to take it off-road on some singletrack if I so chose. The riding position was more comfortable for just cruising around as well. Unfortunately it was stolen on monday, and I doubt I will get it back. Keep at it!


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## rc51kid (Nov 8, 2010)

Thanks for all the encouragement. But unfortunately I have shelved the idea. I went to mount my ultegra crankset and the chainring wouldn’t clear the frame. I could have gone out and bought a wider BB. But the little expenses just kept adding up. All the little brake mounts, cable adapters and now a new BB would have been well over $50ish. I figure I could get a new (used) road frame for around $100 and just put all my new parts on it. I picked up a old Novara frame/fork made out of Tange Prestige for around $65ish. So I have everything except a 700c wheelset for it. I figure it will be a better road machine in the end anyway.


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## SelfPropelledDevo (Aug 12, 2008)

just keep your eye out for something like this:
http://monterey.craigslist.org/bik/2084555808.html

this is my Hunter 29er
it totally rocks

I did 3 double centuries on it last year
Portland to Ventura
Eureka to Morro Bay
and 1,000 miles in 7 days along the Continental Divide, Banff, AB to Butte, MT... all dirt.

disc brakes, wheels that can go with tubes or tubeless
48x11t with a 29x2.0" is about 127 gear inch, which is what a road bike is at with 53x11t
plus its a mtb so its got all the gears in between. 22x32t granny


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