# Press Fit 30 Hollowgram questions..



## mattmor (Feb 3, 2006)

I've got a new Evo di2 bike- its got PF30 with Hollowgrams. In the past with the Hollowgrams, the spindle has a shoulder on the non-drive side. This one doesn't have that shoulder, how do you install the spindle centered? Thanks!

-matt


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

There should be a spacer for the non-drive side. I think it's marked for your specific use (Press Fit PF30 or BB30). Is the bike apart or assembled?


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## mattmor (Feb 3, 2006)

Dan Gerous said:


> There should be a spacer for the non-drive side. I think it's marked for your specific use (Press Fit PF30 or BB30). Is the bike apart or assembled?


Bike was assembled, but I pulled the PF30 in order to loctite it in since it was creaking/clicking. I have installed the spacer - I thought it said drive-side, but I will verify. 

-matt


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

mattmor said:


> Bike was assembled, but I pulled the PF30 in order to loctite it in since it was creaking/clicking. I have installed the spacer - I thought it said drive-side, but I will verify.
> 
> -matt


I haven't played with the new setup, but from what I saw, the drive side stays as before (wave-washer and optional thin shims to adjust preload) but the thicker spacer (black with marking, alloy?) is used on the non-drive side. Not the best picture to show it but this might help:


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## mattmor (Feb 3, 2006)

Dan Gerous said:


> I haven't played with the new setup, but from what I saw, the drive side stays as before (wave-washer and optional thin shims to adjust preload) but the thicker spacer (black with marking, alloy?) is used on the non-drive side. Not the best picture to show it but this might help:


Dan,

Thanks for the info. How mine was setup is wave washer, 2 clear thin shims, the black non-drive side alloy spacer all on non-drive side, and then bearing covers on each side. 

Just wondering how with no shoulder on the spindle to line it up properly. I guess with that spacer on the non-drive side and everything tightned up it pulls the spindle where it needs to be?

-matt


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## trauma-md (Feb 6, 2004)

mattmor said:


> Dan,
> 
> Thanks for the info. How mine was setup is wave washer, 2 clear thin shims, the black non-drive side alloy spacer all on non-drive side, and then bearing covers on each side.
> 
> ...


The spacers are now the substitute for the lip that used to be on the spindle. This is the case for the new SiSL2 set up which you have. As long as you have the larger non drive side spacer, nylon spacers and wave washer on the NON drive side, it creates the correct spacing on that side. 

You need to think of the Hollowgram installation backwards, now

The old setup was you would install the non drive side first because it was a static spacing setup (meaning the lip and the bearing cover were the only factors), then you would adjust spacers on the drive side to ensure proper preload on the wave washer. 

Now it is the opposite: the drive side is actually static and you now provide preload on the non drive side. This is easier, as having to make adjustments in spacers used to mean taking off the entire drive side setup (chain, etc) to add or remove spacers. Now you can do it from the non drive side and actually see the wave washer better. :thumbsup:


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## Stumpy2011 (Aug 1, 2011)

I have 2012 EVO with PF30 as well.(bought used) with Spidering
I was able to remove the crank arms, but I don't know how to remove the spindle.
There are no spacers, shields or anything other than the wave-washer on the drive side.
Is that normal ?
I don't have creaking, but rather some clicking noise when on low gears climbing...

1. How do I remove the spindle - do I jst tap it with a mallet - from what side ?
I tried to tap gently it from the drive side, but it wouldn't move.

2. Am I missing anything - as I have ONLY the wave-washer.

3. With crank arms removed, trying to rotate the spindle with my finger, I feel some resistance - is that normal ?


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## Stumpy2011 (Aug 1, 2011)

So I was able to remove the spindle using a rubber mallet with some hard taps on the drive side.
I didn't have the required PVC dowel or similar to remove it completely from the BB, but enough to inspect and clean/grease the area.
It does have the grooved Sram PF bearing shields and seal on each side.
When re-installing, I tapped the spindle hard from the NDS with the mallet to space it correctly
I noticed some drag (same as before) on the rotation, seems to me like it is caused by the shields/seals rubbing against the BB and not a faulty bearing.
Is that the way it is or is there a way to reduce the drag with different shields/seals comb, or other way ?


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