# looking for suggestions



## markzbresenio (Jul 7, 2014)

hello everyone~

my name is markz im from lemoore california im just wondering if you guys could help me pick the best road bike for a beginner like me.

im 5'6, 140lbs i don't know if that information helps?

thanks in advance

to admins, im sorry if i posted on the wrong thread


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

What's your budget? How much money you want to spend will narrow it down.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Need more info. Price range, intended use(s) (all paved roads/ MUTs, fire trails, packed dirt/ gravel). fitness, endurance/ charity rides?


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## markzbresenio (Jul 7, 2014)

2-3k?


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## markzbresenio (Jul 7, 2014)

im from lemoore california, this place is a valley... no climbs just open roads... uhmmm im doing it for fitness/endurance

on the budget about 2-3k?


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

markzbresenio said:


> 2-3k?


Including gear?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Ride a bunch of bikes, buy your favorite.

From what you've said, I'd be looking at road bikes. (Drop bars.)


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

A lot depends on what you're expecting. 

You say you're a "beginner". What do you ride now? How much? How far? With whom?

Personally I'd hunt down something sweet in Craigslist in the $500 to $1000 range. Get a few miles under your belt, then if you decide to move up, start looking around to see what is available, then buy a new bike and throw your old one back onto Craigslist (or keep it as a beater).

It might be best not to have your first crash, or stupid thing you do on your $3000 bike.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

I agree with Clifford, except I would get an entry level bike at an LBS. Good chance that if you get into this, you will realize the first bike is not really what you wanted. A good shop will help you get fit and find some rides. 

Probably say something aluminum in the $1000 range. Maybe a Specialized Allez, Giant TCR or Canondale CAAD but lots of other options. The shop is more important than the brand.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

That's a crap pile of money an an entry to the sport bike IMO. Maybe I'm just poor... Leave $200-$300 for gear, pump, shorts/bibs tubes... There are great threads on start up gear available on here... I wish I had that kind of exploratory scratch myself. Go crazy, you can ride some great bikes for that.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I think in retail bikes, sub-$1500 is a false economy. Still less exposure, though. The range between $700 and $1500 is, IMO, a bit of a wasteland. Granted, I inflicted races on my $1000 bike. But it had a lot of mechanical problems. Pretty lame. I actually did try to buy a secondhand bike, but ran out of time and believed I needed a cyclocross bike to be competitive in cyclocross. (In truth, I needed a lot more than that, but watts aren't something I can buy.)

My previous bike retailed for $1700. It basically just worked. I blew it on size, which is where I have some sympathy with spending less on a first bike. But it took many years for the first mechanical problems to surface and all machines suffer wear. I'd say it met my expectations where my $1000 bike repeatedly frustrated me. I actually still have the $1000 bike, just not with that much of its original build.

So if the OP is comfortable spending $2000, great! It'll be a really nice bike. If not for him, for his younger but taller brother.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

There's non flat riding not far east of Lemoore. The Orosi Road Race, sadly no longer run, was over some really pretty roads (and challenging climbs at race speed). I don't remember what the route was but you can probably find it on Strava or MapMyRide.

There's lots of other scenic climbing in the area, see the Climb By Bike book.

You should check out some bike stores and test ride some bikes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

NJBiker72 said:


> I agree with Clifford, except I would get an entry level bike at an LBS. Good chance that if you get into this, you will realize the first bike is not really what you wanted. A good shop will help you get fit and find some rides.
> 
> Probably say something aluminum in the $1000 range. Maybe a Specialized Allez, Giant TCR or Canondale CAAD but lots of other options. The shop is more important than the brand.


This. I don't see a reason to spend over ~1200 for a first bike. Second, maybe. 

And going with a LBS you'll avoid the pitfalls associated with used bikes (ill fit, mechanical issues, no warranty). Second, maybe.

All major brands are competitive in their market segments. As was stated, just ride a bunch and (ideally) buy your favorite from your favorite shop.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

You do have to start thinking about materials.

There are many good steel framed bicycles out there, but unless it is a full custom bike, most of the newer steel framed bikes are quite poor quality. There are, however, many good used bikes with steel frames, with the lions share of the pre-2000 market.

Aluminum is a good material for a starter bike, general bashing around, commuting, and etc. Not all aluminum is the same. Dept store bikes somehow are made to be heavy despite using aluminum frames. Higher end bikes may superficially look similar, but will have thin wall tubing and better components.

Titanium may be one of the more durable "metal" materials. Perhaps a little more sexy than Aluminum, especially if given a good finish. But, it is also expensive in the new market.

There is a lot of hype about Carbon Fiber. And, there certainly are some very nice CF bikes out there. You may need to be a little more gentle than with other frame types.

Some bikes may also be some hybrids, perhaps with an aluminum frame, and Carbon Fiber Seat stays which in theory gives a little better ride.

In reality, you may only save about a pound between a top of the line CF frame and a top of the line Aluminum frame (and, maybe 1 more pound with a top of the line steel frame).

A good bicycle can last you a good long time. I've been riding basically the same bicycle for over 30 years, and the bike is probably closer to 45 years old. A lot has changed over the last few decades, but that doesn't mean that an older bike isn't still relevant. With that in mind, you can consider it as a long term investment. But, I still think it is reasonable to consider getting a "starter bike" as you are still exploring your goals.


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## markzbresenio (Jul 7, 2014)

thank you guys for all the suggestions. i never thought there would be a lot to consider... i never thought of the gears, so thank you for reminding me... thank you again guys, you guys are awesome


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Gears?

It sounds like your weight is reasonable, so you should be able to get up the hills (and you mentioned your rides are generally flat). Did you mention your age and general fitness? You probably won't need "triple" cranks and the extreme "granny gears".

A lot of people recommend small gears and a faster cadence. It just doesn't work for me. That may be a reason to experiment with what cycling style is best for you.

There are a few (or quite a few) threads about compact cranks vs standard cranks. To some extent, you should be able to put larger gears onto a compact crankset, but you may be limited with putting small gears onto a standard crankset. 

The cheapest department store bikes often have riveted chain rings. You can still replace the rear cluster/cassette, but need to replace the whole cranks to upgrade the front chain rings.

I've been running 7x2 gearing for quite some time. I'm probably headed towards 9x2 in the near future, in part because I'm having troubles finding the rear cluster gearing that I would like. Many of the high end bikes have 10x2 or 11x2 gearing. That just seems like an awful lot of gears to be going through. Technically, one could have 11x3 gearing (33 gear combinations total), but that isn't common.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

OP, I don't think you need to think that much about gearing.

The majors spec bikes based on what they think someone will want at that pricepoint. If you buy a complete bike, it will most likely have a double crank and ten cogs. You may get a choice between SRAM and Shimano, and you may not. And it is worth paying a little more attention to whether the crank is a standard or a compact. I prefer compact - available low gears for climbing, and it's not like I had any use for the ratio I give up. I know I'm not Marcel Kittel.

You'd have to go out of your way to get a bike with a triple, or separate brake and shift levers. So no reason to worry about those, IMO.

It may not even really matter if you get compact or standard. But you'll be shifting frequently enough and spend enough time with your hands on the brake hoods that I think it's worth getting a sense for the two dominant brands during test ride. At your pricepoint, a third player, Campagnolo, will be present on some European bikes. It's not real common, but its fans love it.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> OP, I don't think you need to think that much about gearing.
> 
> The majors spec bikes based on what they think someone will want at that pricepoint. If you buy a complete bike, it will most likely have a double crank and ten cogs. You may get a choice between SRAM and Shimano, and you may not. And it is worth paying a little more attention to whether the crank is a standard or a compact. I prefer compact - available low gears for climbing, and it's not like I had any use for the ratio I give up. I know I'm not Marcel Kittel.
> 
> ...


It is easy to get a separate shifting and breaking. Buy Sram.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You compact cranks come with smaller chainrings than regular cranks, for lower (easier) gearing. (the length of the cranks is the same, it's just the chainring mounting part that is smaller)

Smaller chainrings == lower gearing. Smaller cogs == higher gearing.

If you want to ride hills you will want low gearing. It's common for new bikes to come with 50/34 front and an 11-28 cassette on the back. That's sufficient for many people in many sitations. Either being out of shape or riding extreme climbs can require even lower gearing.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

NJBiker72 said:


> It is easy to get a separate shifting and breaking. Buy Sram.


Why would anybody want separate brake and shift levers? Integrated levers are one of only a handful of real qualitative advances in road bike equipment in the last 40 years.

OP, with that liberal budget there are lots of choices. I'd go to a couple of good bike stores (I think you have to go as far as Visalia, and there are a bunch in Fresno). Test ride a bunch of bikes. Don't worry too much about precise equipment choices (except to make sure you find the shift mechanisms comfortable, as Andrew advised), and definitely don't worry about frame material. It doesn't matter all that much.

Then buy the bike that feels best to you, unless you really hate the shop.


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## Silchas Ruin (Oct 24, 2013)

JCavilia said:


> Why would anybody want separate brake and shift levers? Integrated levers are one of only a handful of real qualitative advances in road bike equipment in the last 40 years.


Hipsters.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

SRAM does sometimes give shifting and brEaking. But they're supposed to have excellent warranty service. 

I'm more of a Shimano fan, but plenty of high-mileage riders I know prefer SRAM. Or Campy. Of course, they're wrong.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Silchas Ruin said:


> Hipsters.


Hipsters (and even un-hip FG riders like me) don't have no shift levers at all. Some of them don't have brake levers, either (I have one).


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

I am still riding on friction downtube shifters. That may change in the near future. But, one advantage of the downtube, and bar end shifters is that one doesn't have to worry about cluster compatibility. Just stick the wheel on and adjust the derailleur. It is also very easy and quick to jump from one side to the other of the cluster. They are also completely bomb-proof and very easy to maintain, although my original shift levers had been hollowed out which wasn't so good of an idea. Over 3 decades of use, I've finally worn out both of my original brake levers. It is much cheaper and easier to just replace the worn brake levers.

I am going to try some brake lever shifters soon, so perhaps I'll have a different perspective when I get them mounted.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

CliffordK said:


> I am still riding on friction downtube shifters. That may change in the near future. But, one advantage of the downtube, and bar end shifters is that one doesn't have to worry about cluster compatibility. Just stick the wheel on and adjust the derailleur. It is also very easy and quick to jump from one side to the other of the cluster. They are also completely bomb-proof and very easy to maintain, although my original shift levers had been hollowed out which wasn't so good of an idea. Over 3 decades of use, I've finally worn out both of my original brake levers. It is much cheaper and easier to just replace the worn brake levers.
> 
> I am going to try some brake lever shifters soon, so perhaps I'll have a different perspective when I get them mounted.


Clifford, I do sometimes miss the maintenance ease and near-universal compatibility of friction shifters. 

But I'd never voluntarily go back (except to ride an old bike for fun occasionally). Dual-control levers (I like Campy best) make a big difference, especially in difficult circumstances (traffic, rough roads, maneuvering at high speed) where you hesitate to take a hand off the bars. I shift more frequently and ride better (ironically, I now do more than half my riding on FG bikes -- but when I head for the hills, I really appreciate the Ergopower on the road bike).

Yes, they're more costly, require more maintenance, and you have to adjust them. and you have to pay attention to compatibility. But it's worth it. They're one of the two real advances (clipless pedals are the other), IMHO.


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

Go try a Cannondale CAAD 8 or Synapse with Shimano 105 drivetrain, or Fuji Sportif or perhaps Gran Fondo, same 105 set up. Almost every brand will have similar bikes at a similar price. 

1) choose the bike shop you like to sea with
2) let them set you up on some demo rides and if you find one you like and fits well, buy it
3) ride, the bride some more. 

A $1000 to $1500 bike will be well made, durable and should last for years


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

Maybe an actual entry-level bike to start, then buy a more expensive one in a couple of years once you learn your riding style and preferences. Plus, you will be a better rider by then. 3 grand is a lot to spend on a bike you will outgrow. 

Second the CAAD 8 suggestions. They are great bikes, and have good re-sale value due to popularity. Maybe this one:

CAAD8 6 Tiagra - CAAD8 - Elite Race - ROAD - BIKES - 2014

I'm saying Tiagra with the idea that you will want to replace in a couple of years. But maybe the 105 would be better. I've actually never owned below 105, but Tiagra groups are actually very good. 

The CAAD 10's are more race geometry, and hence appropriate for someone more experienced in cycling. The 8 range will be a little more upright but still handle well, be fast, and likely make you happy for quite some time.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

JCavilia said:


> Why would anybody want separate brake and shift levers? Integrated levers are one of only a handful of real qualitative advances in road bike equipment in the last 40 years.
> 
> OP, with that liberal budget there are lots of choices. I'd go to a couple of good bike stores (I think you have to go as far as Visalia, and there are a bunch in Fresno). Test ride a bunch of bikes. Don't worry too much about precise equipment choices (except to make sure you find the shift mechanisms comfortable, as Andrew advised), and definitely don't worry about frame material. It doesn't matter all that much.
> 
> Then buy the bike that feels best to you, unless you really hate the shop.


Personally far prefer the Double Tap system. No need to push the whole brake lever. Just feels better. But it is personal preference.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The Tiagra bits on my $1000 '09 'cross bike are what's survived. The headset, crank, and front hub were all junk, but I still have those shift levers, I still have the rear derailleur, though it's on another bike (replaced a Rival rear derailleur after the insides fell out of the shifter) and the rear hub may make it back onto a bike if I decide to replace the worn out rim it's laced into.

It's not necessarily as pretty, but I think Shimano did a great job with Tiagra - mechanically, it's got all the bases covered.

I stuck some new Sora shifters on another bike recently. I don't have a ton of miles with them yet, but they feel right and do the job.

On paper, Claris looks like a true working man's group. They gave 2300 a pretty significant upgrade with it. I was thinking about some inexpensive wheels with Claris hubs for my main road bike, actually, to avoid downtime for a wheel rebuild on the old hubs.

The problem I have with $1000 bikes is that you don't usually get a complete Shimano group. I expect to see unsealed hubs and the FSA crankset with the crappy bottom bracket that's a unique size. Also Tektro brakes, but those are fine.


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