# Converting a Specialized Sirrus for Century work



## beans (Jun 22, 2006)

Hello all,

First proper post, been reading these forums with interest for a while. I'd be glad of some advice on a project I'm starting.

I have a Specialized Sirrus basic model with Sora mechs, flat bars, stock shifters and brakes and saddle. All in all a modest machine but it's a perfect fit for me and rides well for the price.

I'm setting about kitting it out with a view to some long recreational rides and ultimately centuries. I'm going to make the following changes, but can I get comments from the floor?:

- Saddle: Brooks B17 
- Bars: considering a drop bar, should I be looking for anything here?
- Levers: I'm at a loss here, what should I be after for a long, comfortable ride?
- Hope to keep the stem as is, 25.4 bar diameter at the minute. Would i have to swap the stem out to use a 26mm bar? Assuming so
- Shifters: bar end shifters, any recommendations? Non-sti pref

I'm sticking with the Sora rear-mech, it's heavy but solid; stock 8 spd cassette and triple cranks are fine, toe-clips on the peddles are fine

Recommendations and advice appreciated


----------



## M.J. (Jan 28, 2004)

rather than alter a machine your happy with is it not possible to hold off and aim for a new dedicated road/touring bike? you'll be spending plenty with the changes you're suggesting - it's possible to magic a new ride but just not something I'd think would be financially sensible

the first thing I'd do would be to get some clipless pedals

BTW the best investment you can make in changing the performance of a bike is upgrading the wheels


----------



## dgsbikes (Nov 11, 2005)

I think you are on the right track, but you will probably need to replace your stem. Most drop bars use either a 26 or 31.8 stem. You can buy Shimano 8spd. bar end shifters, but you might want to look into buying the 9spd if you are thinking about upgrading in the future. They are not that much more expensive. You will have to replace the cassette, but the Sora derailleur should work with 9spd. Also you may want a shorter stem unless you use barends on the flatbar, use them quite a bit and are comfortable on them. I like the Nitto Noodle drop bar that Rivendel sells and the Ritchey Biomax. For brake levers, I like the new Tektro/Cane Creek levers, but others like the Shimano's. Most of these items come down to what is comfortable to you and how much money you want to spend. 

A good place to browse for parts is the QBP catalog at www.sheldonbrown.com or at aebike.com.


----------



## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

*Try not to spend much on this one.*

There are a lot of issues with changing to drop bars from flat.

Since the bike was built for flat bars the top tube is fairly long. 

Note how the brake levers are about even with the end of the stem? When you switch to drop bars that places your brake levers several inches in front of the stem. An entirely different riding position and the weight balance between the wheels is markedly changed too.

This conversion is not often very successful. Instead of changing a bike that you like and are comfortable on, try to find a bike that is designed for drop bars.

YMMV 

.


----------



## beans (Jun 22, 2006)

Interesting, and just the kind of feedback I need. 

Has anyone had experience with Moustache bars for any 150K+ rides? I'm going to dive into the archives now and see what I can find.


----------



## M.J. (Jan 28, 2004)

moustache bars are great for commuting but I find them uncomfortable for big mile rides - actually for anything more than 20-30 miles in a go - there's really only two hand positions with moustache bars and my wrists suffer


----------



## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Give it up*



beans said:


> Interesting, and just the kind of feedback I need.
> 
> Has anyone had experience with Moustache bars for any 150K+ rides? I'm going to dive into the archives now and see what I can find.


As others have noted, you are trying to turn a family station wagon into a racing car. Possible, but fraught with challenge, expense, and the high probability of a generally unsatisfactory outcome. Horses for courses.


----------



## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

I'll chime in with the posts urging caution. You'll drop some dough on this project and, as MB noted, may not be happy with the outcome in terms of geometry. You most certainly won't get a lot of bang for the buck, since the changes you are proposing will neither improve function or decrease weight... they'll just give you a few more hand positions.

There's certainly folks using straight bar road bikes for distances rides, including my father. He added aerobars and has done many a century. 

Or, if you are lusting for a drop bar road bike, keep an eye on the used market. I picked up an early 90s Bianchi with Shimano 600 and bar end shifters for $300 on eBay a few years back and use it as my commuter. Lots of interesting options especially since you aren't insisting on the latest and greatest technology. 

Otherwise, new bars, shifters, and stem ... that's a lotta buck for little bang, seems to me.


----------



## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

MB1 said:


> Since the bike was built for flat bars the top tube is fairly long.


Not always the case. Some of the flat bar road bikes were designed with drop-bar-length top tubes. Depends on how picky the designer was in the first place. In this situation, less picky in initial design might mean a better fit with drops.

What is the year of the Sirrus in question? What is the frame size? Let's dig up the frame geometry specs before we write this one off.

My 2 Cents,

FBB


----------



## beans (Jun 22, 2006)

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCGeometryPopup.jsp?spid=13595

The bike in question is the M with a top-tube length of 545 mm

I'm half-inclined to just install Aero-bars for the comfort cruising position. I did 60K yesterday on the bars/bar ends/brake hoods without too much discomfort, i'm thinking the drops arent going to significantly help from a touring point of view. Still...


----------



## YuriB (Mar 24, 2005)

i did it.
tho i take the rack off for centuries...
all i did was get a 105dt with a mtn casette, new levers, shifters and bar.
all stuff that can be assmilated onto other bikes i own when the frame is toast.


----------



## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

beans said:


> http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCGeometryPopup.jsp?spid=13595
> 
> The bike in question is the M with a top-tube length of 545 mm


Sounds like a reasonable length for a drop conversion. You might want to go to a stem with an adjustable angle so you can fine tune the position.

Have fun!

- FBB


----------



## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I agree with MB-1. By the time you add up all the time & money it'll cost you to do the conversion, you'd likely be able to buy a good used bike. Also consider that if you do the conversion, it might not give you the results you wanted or expected.


----------



## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You might try some MTB bar ends as a cheap way to get alternative hand positions.


----------



## beans (Jun 22, 2006)

Thanks for the photos YuriB. That's fairly close to how I once imagined it would turn out

Since my main goal was to add comfort for long-distance rides, I have decided to install the leather saddle first, before worrying about the bars. I am foresaking the drops idea in favour of keeping a straight bar (and so the shifters and levers, as I don't need to change these) and fitting aero-bars. Between the bar-ends, aero-bars and flats I should have enough hand positions to alternate.

Although I would love to follow YuriB's lead, that looks great. I might look into a new stem for no other reason that it looks sweet.

This isn't going to be a race-bike pretender. This is going to be a long tourer and daily commuter. The racer will be found on the 'for sale' section of the local club when the time is right!


----------



## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

*Another Handlebar Option*

Check out the "Trekking" bars from Nashbar:

http://tinyurl.com/4x2es

I installed them in the "down" position, so the were positioned like short-reach moustache bars with an extra hand position. The were very comfortable, but I had them set up on a bike with a top-tube/stem combo that was much too short for me, so the whole setup was not hugely comfortable on rides longer than 20 miles or so.

I am currently setting them up on a bike with a much longer top-tube/stem combo. I am guessing they will be very comfortable on looong hauls when everything is done. LOTS of comfy hand positions, and you can set your brakes are shift levers up just like a flat bar bike. I may end up cutting down the "inboard" hand position. It is longer than it needs to be for a comfortable grip, and I am a bit worried about knee interference, but that might not be an issue now that I will have everything spread out much more.

Also, they are 25.4mm, the same diameter as flat bars, so your current stem would work fine.

I will attach pictures of my original setup. I am using road bike brake levers, but ATB levers will work just as well.

And for only $14.95, it's probably worth buying these and experimenting.

Yours,

FBB


----------



## beans (Jun 22, 2006)

M.J. said:


> the first thing I'd do would be to get some clipless pedals


For the curious, the following additions have greatly increased comfort on rides 50k+

- New saddle, Selle San Marco Gelaround 
- Shorts with chamois
- Look Keo pedals 

Without going near the bars or bar-ends, these made a huge difference. 

I then installed a second set of bar-ends on either side of the stem for additional hand-positions without the need for aero-bars (which may not be the comfort option I had invisaged). My Sirrus is now a good bet over distance, and will remain as my commuter even after I get my road-bike proper


----------

