# Cracked Rim - Possible Causes/Recommendations



## aderick (Mar 4, 2010)

While cleaning my bike this morning I noticed cracks in the rim of my rear Mavic K ssc sl, four in total and at the nipples of the drive side spokes. I'm not sure exactly when it happened but I noticed a tinging noise sometime last week and saw the wheels were a little out of true, didn't occur to me that the rim might have been cracked.

I'm 6'4" 190lbs and currently ride 180-200mi/wk on mostly smooth roads, the wheels have about 4000mi on them. Also a full time student so money is one of the biggest considerations in my course of action.

My questions are: 

What could have caused the cracks?

Would it be better to repair or replace the wheel? If replace, what decent, durable, budget wheel would you recommend?


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## slamy (Mar 15, 2004)

if the hubs are in decent shape and you are pressed for cash, just have a lbs replace the rim. Could probably get done for $100 bucks.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Spoke tension*



aderick said:


> While cleaning my bike this morning I noticed cracks in the rim of my rear Mavic K ssc sl, four in total and at the nipples of the drive side spokes. What could have caused the cracks? Would it be better to repair or replace the wheel? If replace, what decent, durable, budget wheel would you recommend?


The most likely cause is that the spoke tension was too high given the strength of the rim and the load. It could have been caused by an impact, but then you'd likely have some rim damage or at least a memorable event.

Your best bet for a replacement wheel would be a set of hand built wheels based on the hubs of your choice with something like a Velocity Aerohead, Kinlin, or MAVIC OpenPro rim. At your weight, 32 spoke 3X would be a good build.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

i would not repair...

get a rear only ultegra/op rim for around the same as the repair cost.... the mavic hubs aren't the best and can be a maintenance nightmare...

down the track when u have a bit more cash you can buy the matching front if you want..


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## goneskiian (Jan 13, 2005)

How old are these wheels? I would try to get them fixed under warranty before spending any money if your budget is as tight as mine was when I was a student. :smilewinkgrin:

Cheers!


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## cmg (Oct 27, 2004)

get a wheelset from bicycle wheel warehouse. if money is tight and asthetics are not a concern, try to get just a rear wheel. there's no use to fix it, probably out of warranty. high tension due to the few number of spokes. you can get just as light a rim with more spokes that will be more dependable.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cmg said:


> get a wheelset from bicycle wheel warehouse.


Yep, get OpenPro/Ultegras from BWW - MUCH better value wheels (way cheaper to repair) than those overpriced Mavics.


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## aderick (Mar 4, 2010)

Planning on having a wheel made, just need a find a way to keep riding 'til it comes. 

IRD cadence aero rim, 105 hub, DT champ spokes. 32 spoke - 160$ (input welcome)

I've been able to devote most of my riding time to learning about wheels; it's been a good but expensive learning experience.

And the wheels are a few years old, got them from a guy who almost never used them. Thought I had a good deal on a 'bulletproof' wheelset, hah.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

aderick said:


> Planning on having a wheel made, just need a find a way to keep riding 'til it comes - IRD cadence aero rim, 105 hub, DT champ spokes. 32 spoke - 160$ (input welcome)


One wheel with 105 hub for $160? That's too much money. How about a pair from BWW -

http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=132

And get the DT Comp spokes too - they make for a stronger wheel than Champs. $185

Or - http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=72


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## herbn (Aug 22, 2009)

if you think about it for a while you might remember the pothole or similar stressful road flaw that caused that, this year in particular the roads seem x extrabad. I see huge areas of erroded roads with fresh patches here and there, an i think" that's it? that's as good as the road's gonna get,THAT is considered already fixed!" I've been running 25's at 105 lbs, bigger tires.


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

That's the typical fatigue failure mode for Kysriums under heavier riders. See if you can get it replaced, than resell to someone who doesn't know better. Open Pros will fail between the eyelets in the same way, but at least you can easily get a replacement rim swapped in quickly. I'd recommend something more durable for everyday wheels.


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## aderick (Mar 4, 2010)

Mike T. said:


> One wheel with 105 hub for $160? That's too much money. How about a pair from BWW -
> 
> And get the DT Comp spokes too - they make for a stronger wheel than Champs. $185


I'm concerned about the rigidity/durability of the rim as well as the bearings/maintenance on 2200 hubs. This is somewhat based on hearsay, but wouldn't the Mavic rims be less durable especially given that I am a heavier, powerful (at least I like to think so) rider who spends a lot of time climbing? My understanding is that the greatest torques a wheel experiences occur during a climb.

Shouldn't I spring for the better hub rather than buy a front and rear? Your advice on some other posts was to buy the best hub feasible, even if I "had to eat Kraft Dinner for a month" to do so.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

aderick said:


> I'm concerned about the rigidity/durability of the rim as well as the bearings/maintenance on 2200 hubs. This is somewhat based on hearsay, but wouldn't the Mavic rims be less durable especially given that I am a heavier, powerful (at least I like to think so) rider who spends a lot of time climbing? My understanding is that the greatest torques a wheel experiences occur during a climb.
> Shouldn't I spring for the better hub rather than buy a front and rear? Your advice on some other posts was to buy the best hub feasible, even if I "had to eat Kraft Dinner for a month" to do so.


I've been 200lbs (I'm not now) and have had no problems for years on OpenPro rims on 4 bikes. Better hubs? Sure. Go for DuraAce of you can. I did. Buy the best you can afford but you mentioned 105 hubs so I assumed that they were your price level.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

You want a super durable Mavic? I would recommend trying a CXP 33/Ultegra setup. you'll never need another rear wheel again.


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

That is generally how and where rims fail. Even those OPs with the eyelet at the nipple hole. I believe Mavic has a one year warranty only. 
I would recomend Neuvations. I had a pair do the same thing and they replaced both wheels 3 years after I bought them. I dont think bww would do that. Williams 30s would be another great choice. Williams and Nuevation are light fast and durable allround wheelsets. I have put many training and racing miles on both. Great customer service too.


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## QQUIKM3 (Apr 20, 2008)

*What??*



fallzboater said:


> Open Pros will fail between the eyelets in the same way, but at least you can easily get a replacement rim swapped in quickly.


How do you back up that silly, and unsubstantiated statement? Total BS. An Open Pro build 32 spokes, 3x front and rear with brass nips is absoultly bullet-proof, and has a proven track reacord.


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## ksfacinelli (Feb 11, 2002)

*Mavic*

Those ssc sl's are from 2002-2003, that is a pretty good length of time. I would think you would have more like 15k plus miles on those puppies.


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## RussellS (Feb 1, 2010)

QQUIKM3 said:


> How do you back up that silly, and unsubstantiated statement? Total BS. An Open Pro build 32 spokes, 3x front and rear with brass nips is absoultly bullet-proof, and has a proven track reacord.


Bullsh-t. Mavic Open Pro rims are garbage. They will crack in a few years. Two rims for me. Rear non drive side. Cracks at numerous eyelets. Simply do a search on any bicycling forum and you will find countless stories of people with cracked Mavic Open Pro rims.


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## bahueh (May 11, 2004)

neuvation...just bought a rear wheel for $140. ask Neugent about the weight limit...

they're good wheels, albeit a little on the heavy side.


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

QQUIKM3 said:


> How do you back up that silly, and unsubstantiated statement? Total BS. An Open Pro build 32 spokes, 3x front and rear with brass nips is absoultly bullet-proof, and has a proven track reacord.


I weigh 195 lb, and have cracked them in exactly that way after a few thousand miles. Pretty silly, huh? I don't see why people recommend them for heavier riders.


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## QQUIKM3 (Apr 20, 2008)

*Inproperaly built. . .*



RussellS said:


> Bullsh-t. Mavic Open Pro rims are garbage. They will crack in a few years. Two rims for me. Rear non drive side. Cracks at numerous eyelets. Simply do a search on any bicycling forum and you will find countless stories of people with cracked Mavic Open Pro rims.


. .Any wheel can be "garbage." But utilizing good, sound wheel-building techniques, such as measuring correct tension, using correct gage spokes, as well as tension balancing they are excellent rims. I have a pair of Open Pro Ceramics I built 28F 32R rear 8 years ago and have at least >20K on and they are flawless (maintenance helps too).


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

RussellS said:


> Bullsh-t. Mavic Open Pro rims are garbage. They will crack in a few years. Two rims for me. Rear non drive side. Cracks at numerous eyelets. Simply do a search on any bicycling forum and you will find countless stories of people with cracked Mavic Open Pro rims.


I can't say whether or not the OP will have an issue with Open Pros but I know four people who agree that Open Pros began to have cracks at the eyelets after a couple of years. They are good to a point, but that is the most common problem with Open Pros.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

Ridden by me, at the time a 220 pound rider...

cxp 22's totally bombproof by Mavic.

Neuvation tacoed like a pretzel with a great warranty.


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## Fogdweller (Mar 26, 2004)

*Mavic USA rebuilds*

Over tensioning is not the issue. These are all tensioned by hand while being double checked with a computer. I had a set of ES anniv editions rebuilt from Mavic USA about three years ago (breaking surfaces were cupped from two winters of riding/breaking) at a cost of about $170 per wheel. The only original part I got back was the hub shell, new rims, spokes, nips, bearings, axels and cassette. I rode the set for another two years until the rear rim cracked. This time the rebuild on the rear alone was $230. It as a good jumping off point for me so I sold the set locally. I'd say if you like the way the wheels ride, you could have them both rebuilt for just under the cost of a new set and also get a fresh warantee on them. Find a shop that is a Mavic dealer and get a quote, then make a decision. If you don't like the way they ride, there are great suggestions on this thread for replacements.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

I'd be real curious to hear what the measured tension was on the cracked rims.

Lots of people have lots of miles without problems on Open Pros and the thinner Reflex clincher (my front is 10 years old, and would be good for longer if I hadn't just bent it).


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*The issue*



Fogdweller said:


> Over tensioning is not the issue.


Rims that crack mean that the spoke tension was too high for the strength of the rim. It may be that the rim was inadequate for the task, but still the spoke tension exceeded the strength of the rim if the rim cracked. "Over tensioning" is a relative term, but the rim cracked due to spoke tension that was too high for the rim and its service condition (rider weight, rough roads, etc.).


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

Some rims seem to crack quite easily though... even at fairly low tensions.

I recently got an email from someone who claims their high $ factory wheelset with scandium rims started cracking very badly and were unrideable after 3k miles. He isn't heavy either. Scandium/aluminum alloy is supposed to be strong, but there are other things to consider when you subject a material to high point loads and also expose the surface layer... namely ductility and corrosion resistance. "Strong" alloys are often lacking in these properties, and fatigue cracks develop.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Easy crack*



rruff said:


> Some rims seem to crack quite easily though... even at fairly low tensions.


So true. But all I'm saying is that rim cracks are due to having too much spoke tension for that rim and the riding conditions. If a given rim cracks under "normal" spoke tension, then you need to go with a higher spoke count or a different rim.


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## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

Adding to Kerry Irons and few others.

I had similar problem on DT Swiss R1.2(?) rims after ~15,000km. Replaced them with handbuilt wheels - Ultegra hubs, OpenPro rims, brass nipples, double butted steel spokes, 32 holes front and rear, and so far so good. I am not heavy, 71kg (155lbs?). At your weight you would probably be ok on these too or you can go for 36-spokes, at least on the rear wheel. Bonus: those kinds of wheels are relatively affordable as well as lasting. The trick is to find a good wheel builder. A bad wheel builder will screw up any wheel.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

acid_rider said:


> I had similar problem on DT Swiss R1.2(?) rims after ~15,000km.


The 30mm deep rims cracked? If so I'd say DT is using the wrong alloy. This never happens to Kinlins and they weigh about 120g less.


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