# Click-type torque wrench vs. electronic one



## AndreyT (Dec 1, 2011)

From what I read about electronic torque wrenches and the principle they are based upon, it appears that they should not require re-calibration as often as click-type wrenches do (if at all). If anyone here had experience with electronic wrenches, would you please tell me if that's the case?

(I reposted the question in the torque wrench thread. This can be deleted.)


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

If you are using this on a bike you don't need an expensive electronic job. There are mechanical digital units those are less expensive then electronic digital, but I don't see any reason for those either. What's weird is the less expensive beam type of torque wrench is actually the most accurate. The click is easy to use because you just set the desired torque and go till it clicks, but these require recalibration and some companies will recalibrate theirs for a fee or some tool stores can do it for a fee. I happen to like the click kind because when working on a car I have more room to handle the wrench and I don't have to have the wrench in a particular angle to view the gauge. I think all that Park sells is the Click kind if your wanting to use it on a bicycle. When storing a click type make sure you store it with the setting at 20% of it's full scale.

Always remember that increase complexity of a tool will increase it's cost, and increase it's failure rate, thus the electronic one would be my least favorite. But don't buy a cheap clicker from Asia like Harbor Freight, Craftsman varys from one to another so accuracy is in question right at the point of purchase plus the recent ones are junky, get a decent one like SK, SnapOn and Matco are way over priced but if you can afford it go for it; also my SK is about 35 years old so that company may not make good ones anymore, but I'm not sure; but Proto also use to be another very good tool company and made really nice clickers; but again that was 35 year old information they may not be any good any more.

Please note, I'm just a backyard mechanic not a pro mechanic so someone could post up with better info then me that's been in the business, so listen to them and not to me.


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## AndreyT (Dec 1, 2011)

Well, the concern that I have about click-type wrenches is that they come out of calibration and need to be recalibrated regularly. I understand that when the wrench is stored properly, the periods between recalibrations can be extended. However, the idea of click-clutch used in click-type wrench just doesn't appeal to me. It is a purely mechanical part that is supposed to act precisely under considerable stress. It will go out of calibration and eventually it will wear out.

Electronic wrenches, judging by what I read about the principle, should take much much longer to go out of calibration, and they are not supposed to wear out. Basically, electronic wrench in many respects appears to be similar to beam-type wrench, except that they use a compact torsion "beam" (or "spring" or whatever) instead of a long bending beam, and they have an electronic sensor and feedback. 

Contrary to what you imply above, I would actually say that electronic wrench has less complexity that mechanical click-type wrench. The comparative complexity here is more similar to that of a mechanical and quartz watches.

The click-type wrenches are surely more convenient in their slipping action, while beam-type and electronic wrenches simply indicate that the desired torque has been achieved, without slipping.


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## DaveT (Feb 12, 2004)

I think the question really may be of the cost-benefit ratio. The home bike mechanic really doesn't "need" anything more than a beam-type torque wrench. The click-type wrench does go out of calibration relatively quickly, it's based on the number of uses, and when stored properly it will be many years before it needs any attention in the hands of the home mechanic, The electronic wrenches may need less attention than click wrenches but they are an order of magnitude more expensive that the other types available. The precision required for bicycles really doesn't, IMO, warrant an expensive wrench when the less expensive will do the job just as well.


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## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

I vote for and use a beam style.
Actually don't use it often.
Cheap, stays calibrated and easy to use.
Craftsman is good enough.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I believe they do have calibration for digital torque wrench, since it is basically an analog to digital interface, there are some values to tinker with.

Just a page I found
CDI torque wrench calibration services/lab/ snap-on/proto/armstrong/sears/craftsman/ repair lab, torque tool repair, clicker torque wrench calibration/on site calibration, iso/iec 17025/a2la accredited metrology lab, buy/rent cdi torque wrench/snap-o


But this was done at the factory and I don't think a person using it at home to turn the 8 bolts on each bike will need it. You will find not every bolt on the bike will be able to fit the torque wrench, and eventually you will need a calibrated hand.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Even beam type need to be calibrated howbeit more rarely then clickers if treated right. The clicker type only need to be calibrated about once every 5 years, big deal, so you send it back to the company or take it to a tool specialty store and it's gone for between a day to 2 weeks. I send mine back to SK every 10 years because I rarely use it and I store it properly, I rarely use it so if it's gone it's no big deal.

Also beam type when dropped can bend the needle indicator. In addition to that you can't always have the beam in viewing position to see where the indicator is but using on a bike should be no problem reading the dial. All torque wrench styles have their pro's and con's you just have to reject or accept the one that will best suit your needs.

Also on a bike you need inch pounds not a foot pounds torque wrench, which is why the Park is idea for bike use, measuring torque with inch pound specs using a foot pound wrench could spell disaster. I can't ever recall ever seeing a inch pound beam type.

Read this for more info: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Torque Specifications and Concepts


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