# Fuji SST changes 2010 to 2011



## Mainebikah

Wonder why the SSTs have been changed for the new model year. Seat post is the big difference, especially SST 2 and 3. Was there a problem with the original 2010 model? 

New color's OK for the SST 1 but not sure about the 2, but that's just cosmetic. I was thinking about trying one of these out.


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## mpk1996

they looked nice at interbike


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## frdfandc

The 2010 2.0 has an integrated seat mast. The 3.0 was a normal style of adjustable seat post.

I think LBS employee's weren't too thrilled about cutting them. One cut too much, and new frame time.

When our Fuji Rep stops by (hopefully soon) , I'll inquire about that.


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## Mainebikah

frdfandc said:


> The 2010 2.0 has an integrated seat mast. The 3.0 was a normal style of adjustable seat post.
> 
> I think LBS employee's weren't too thrilled about cutting them. One cut too much, and new frame time.
> 
> When our Fuji Rep stops by (hopefully soon) , I'll inquire about that.


I can see the problem with the cuts! Is there actually no adjustability once that cut is made?


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## jzm

Mainebikah said:


> I can see the problem with the cuts! Is there actually no adjustability once that cut is made?


 ALWAYS ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE, cut once. In my case, I think we measured 10 times before cutting. 
As far a adjustability, local wrench said that the cut portion of the seat tube can serve as "spacers" if there is a need to increase saddle height. Just cut to the required size then insert into the seat clamp (i.e. "sandwiched" between the seat tube and the seat clamp) 
I read in this forum that you have about 2cm of adjustability.


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## Mainebikah

jzm said:


> ALWAYS ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE, cut once. In my case, I think we measured 10 times before cutting.
> As far a adjustability, local wrench said that the cut portion of the seat tube can serve as "spacers" if there is a need to increase saddle height. Just cut to the required size then insert into the seat clamp (i.e. "sandwiched" between the seat tube and the seat clamp)
> I read in this forum that you have about 2cm of adjustability.


2 cm of adjustability isn't much. I guess I can see why the seat mast would be a slight problem. Leaves the bike pretty much a one size rider. If you sell it, someone about the same size or smaller would be the only candidates. Longer legs need not apply, sort of thing.

Would be tough to get a proper test ride on new bike, if LBS didn't want to cut mast to fit. Wouldn't blame them.


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## frdfandc

The seat post cap has approx 2cm of adjustability. However, if the seat post cap isn't fully seated onto the seat mast, then the seat and cap rock forward and aft.

I wouldn't trust using cut portions of the seat mast as spacers. That can only cause issues if they move around and/or break.

Yeah, test rides would be a PITA. I know I wouldn't cut one down for some one just test riding it. But that is why you would test ride a SST 3.0. It uses a normal adjustable seat post.


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## twain

*Yes, keep the cut part*



jzm said:


> As far a adjustability, local wrench said that the cut portion of the seat tube can serve as "spacers" if there is a need to increase saddle height. Just cut to the required size then insert into the seat clamp (i.e. "sandwiched" between the seat tube and the seat clamp)


I did this with my Scott Plasma. Absolutely no issues with it. Essentially it is like a threadless stem and spacers. If the cuts are straight, there are no issues with rocking. The load is displaced. But definitely ask the shop for the cut bit just in case.

This said, integrated seat masts certainly look cool and may have some performance benefits. But my guess is the risks of resale value and "accidents" out weigh (pun intended) the cool factor.


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## Italianrider76

Is the 2011 1.0 actually different to the 2010 1.0??? The frames look the same. I've noticed that the 2011 is made from D-6 carbon and the 2010 is C-7 but other than that are there any differences regarding frame design?


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## frdfandc

Other than the actual carbon make up, I did not read about any design differences.

The new D-6 carbon is the same make up used in the D6 TT bike. It uses properties from both C10 and C7. 

I think Fuji has ran into a bunch of issues with the C10 carbon, so they had to make a change for the better.


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## Mainebikah

frdfandc said:


> Other than the actual carbon make up, I did not read about any design differences.
> 
> The new D-6 carbon is the same make up used in the D6 TT bike. It uses properties from both C10 and C7.
> 
> I think Fuji has ran into a bunch of issues with the C10 carbon, so they had to make a change for the better.


What kind of issues did they have with C10? Something I thought I noticed was a slight uptick on the published weight of the 2011 SST 2 on their site. So new carbon composition might explain, althought there are some parts on the bike from newly acquired Oval.


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## cleansweep13

*Additional SST 1.0 Information*

I own a Fuji sst 1.0 and was concerned about the seat adjustment prior to buying it. I found out that if you do cut the seat mast a little short you can use head spacers 1 1/8 size to make adjustments up to 30cm. I found this out from the fuji site, customer service. I'm not sure why they dont tell give this information out, but it is good to know. I love my 2010 sst 1.0, it rides stiff but is so smooth and under 15 pounds feels so light.


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## docwayner

I own an SST 2.0 2010 model that I upgraded with a Dura Ace 7900 drive train and Reynolds Assault Wheels, FSA K wing Bars.

The 1st frame I had was cut too short, and my LBS (Performance) was great enough to order me a brand new replacement frame at NO COST TO ME.
It was amazing they didn't even hesitate to help. Say what you want about performance, but I don't know any bike shop anywhere that would offer that level of accountability.

Just my humble opinion but the aesthetics of the 2011 2.0 is a huge down grade. The white 2.0 with red and black assents look stunning and really catches the eyes.
Huge down grade as well going from Mavic Kysrium Elites to Oval Alloy wheels.

If anyone can get a 2010 2.0 on clearance get it now vs spending more on the inferior 2011 2.0


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## Mainebikah

docwayner said:


> I own an SST 2.0 2010 model that I upgraded with a Dura Ace 7900 drive train and Reynolds Assault Wheels, FSA K wing Bars.
> 
> The 1st frame I had was cut too short, and my LBS (Performance) was great enough to order me a brand new replacement frame at NO COST TO ME.
> It was amazing they didn't even hesitate to help. Say what you want about performance, but I don't know any bike shop anywhere that would offer that level of accountability.
> 
> Just my humble opinion but the aesthetics of the 2011 2.0 is a huge down grade. The white 2.0 with red and black assents look stunning and really catches the eyes.
> Huge down grade as well going from Mavic Kysrium Elites to Oval Alloy wheels.
> 
> If anyone can get a 2010 2.0 on clearance get it now vs spending more on the inferior 2011 2.0


Performance is a great outfit. Have to agree with you on 2010 SST 2.0 aesthetics, too. I did got to our Fuji LBS and check out the bikes. Very nice looking in white with red and black. Haven't seen the 2011 in the flesh yet, but the pictures don't impress. 

Tell us how your SST 2.0 rides and your likes and gripes, if any. Would like to hear from someone that owns one.


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## frdfandc

Here is just an insight onto the wheel difference.

Advanced Sports Inc purchased Oval Products last year. So now all their bikes will pretty much be spec'd with Oval wheels, stems, bars, seat posts.


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## docwayner

Tell us how your SST 2.0 rides and your likes and gripes, if any. Would like to hear from someone that owns one.[/QUOTE]

Hi Mainbikah,

I absolutely love my SST 2.0. SST stands for Super Stiff Team and stiff it is. I would say that is one of the highlights of the bike. The junctions on the bike are just massive, head tube, down tube, and the fork is quite beefy. The bottom bracket is nice as well, even though its not a BB30, they use a Shimano specific press in bearing system that they call BB86.
Bottom line is the bottom bracket is very stiff.

Handling on descents is great, the bike holds its lines very well. This is where the added stiffness comes into play.
The added stiffness of the BB really helps with climbing efforts as well. Power transfer is great on the climbs, and of course out of the saddle I feel no flex at all. I weight 153 lbs so as a test I let a friend who weighs in at 215 pounds mash away up a local climb and he couldn't even flex the bike.

On the other hand this bike is NOT a plush, upright positioned, century bike. Its designed to go fast with aggression.

Stiffness with the 2.0 model comes at the expense of not being a feather light frame.
Though I never had the chance to weight the frame itself, my current build with Dura Ace drive train, Easton EA 90 SLX wheelset, FSA carbon bars, speedplay pedals weights in at 16.9 lbs.
Not super heavy but not super light either. Perhaps the SST 1.0 is much lighter but it also cost a pretty penny more as well.

The frame also has some pretty aero features which I'm really not fully convinced makes a huge difference or not but looks really sweet (flat triangular top tube, aero integrated seatpost), haven't heard much press if Fuji tested their design in a wind tunnel or not.

Last check my LBS Performance in Santa Monica, CA was selling the bike for 2700 plus 15% off.
This is an incredible price point for this bike with full 6700 ultegra and Mavic Kysium Elites.
This bike has gotta be one of the best "Bang for One's Buck" that I've seen.
The only problem is that the 2010's are in very low supply for sizes.
2011 is a down grade now with oval wheels, also for 2011 only the 1.0 will have a integrated seat post, the 2.0 now has the same seat post that came with the 2010 3.0

I would recommend getting a 2010 2.0 while they last, also since the 2011 are coming in you should be able to get a killer deal on the 2010's.
Below is a low resolution pic of my bike.


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## bon_gabs

:blush2: I just saw today your old SSt2.0 at Fountain valley store,,is that right? men,the seatpost was cut really short its painfull to see the UJI name in there F is gone,,..:thumbsup: 



docwayner said:


> I own an SST 2.0 2010 model that I upgraded with a Dura Ace 7900 drive train and Reynolds Assault Wheels, FSA K wing Bars.
> 
> The 1st frame I had was cut too short, and my LBS (Performance) was great enough to order me a brand new replacement frame at NO COST TO ME.
> It was amazing they didn't even hesitate to help. Say what you want about performance, but I don't know any bike shop anywhere that would offer that level of accountability.
> 
> Just my humble opinion but the aesthetics of the 2011 2.0 is a huge down grade. The white 2.0 with red and black assents look stunning and really catches the eyes.
> Huge down grade as well going from Mavic Kysrium Elites to Oval Alloy wheels.
> 
> If anyone can get a 2010 2.0 on clearance get it now vs spending more on the inferior 2011 2.0


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## Mainebikah

docwayner said:


> Tell us how your SST 2.0 rides and your likes and gripes, if any. Would like to hear from someone that owns one.


Hi Mainbikah,

I absolutely love my SST 2.0. SST stands for Super Stiff Team and stiff it is. I would say that is one of the highlights of the bike. The junctions on the bike are just massive, head tube, down tube, and the fork is quite beefy. The bottom bracket is nice as well, even though its not a BB30, they use a Shimano specific press in bearing system that they call BB86.
Bottom line is the bottom bracket is very stiff.

Handling on descents is great, the bike holds its lines very well. This is where the added stiffness comes into play.
The added stiffness of the BB really helps with climbing efforts as well. Power transfer is great on the climbs, and of course out of the saddle I feel no flex at all. I weight 153 lbs so as a test I let a friend who weighs in at 215 pounds mash away up a local climb and he couldn't even flex the bike.

On the other hand this bike is NOT a plush, upright positioned, century bike. Its designed to go fast with aggression.

Stiffness with the 2.0 model comes at the expense of not being a feather light frame.
Though I never had the chance to weight the frame itself, my current build with Dura Ace drive train, Easton EA 90 SLX wheelset, FSA carbon bars, speedplay pedals weights in at 16.9 lbs.
Not super heavy but not super light either. Perhaps the SST 1.0 is much lighter but it also cost a pretty penny more as well.

The frame also has some pretty aero features which I'm really not fully convinced makes a huge difference or not but looks really sweet (flat triangular top tube, aero integrated seatpost), haven't heard much press if Fuji tested their design in a wind tunnel or not.

Last check my LBS Performance in Santa Monica, CA was selling the bike for 2700 plus 15% off.
This is an incredible price point for this bike with full 6700 ultegra and Mavic Kysium Elites.
This bike has gotta be one of the best "Bang for One's Buck" that I've seen.
The only problem is that the 2010's are in very low supply for sizes.
2011 is a down grade now with oval wheels, also for 2011 only the 1.0 will have a integrated seat post, the 2.0 now has the same seat post that came with the 2010 3.0

I would recommend getting a 2010 2.0 while they last, also since the 2011 are coming in you should be able to get a killer deal on the 2010's.
[/QUOTE]

Excellent write-up and info docwayner, thanks for taking the time! And a great picture of your bike, too. Those wheels look like they were made for the SST 2.0. Can't get that look from the factory most of the time. Hope the SLXs look as good. Weight 's not bad at 16.9. The bike looks aero, but you don't notice any advantage? 

What did you ride before you bought your SST 2.0? All the listings I've seen for left over 2010s show bikes for people that own long legs.


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## docwayner

bon_gabs said:


> :blush2: I just saw today your old SSt2.0 at Fountain valley store,,is that right? men,the seatpost was cut really short its painfull to see the UJI name in there F is gone,,..:thumbsup:


Not quite sure if that bike at Fountain Valley was my old frame or not. I was told that the day my replacement frame came in and they switched over my drive train, they sold the old frame with new wheels and Ultegra 6700 groupo to another customer. I would imagine at a pretty discounted price since their was a few signs of wear at around the bottom braket.

Yeah they cut it way way too short, but made good on it so I'll continue to support my local Performance shops. After all after buying the SST 2.0 I went ahead and bought a Fuji D6 Pro TT bike from them as well 1 week later.

Yeah UJI is no good it definitely should say FUJI 
The new frame was cut perfect and it does say FUJI on the seat post. The picture attached shows the replacement frame, you can kind of see that the seat post is significantly higher, the difference is 4 fold in how much power I'm getting. Big thanks to Ron Peterson of Peterson training.


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## Mainebikah

Your bike looks great, and probably would look great anyway with any wheel set on it. I'll have to spend some quality time on the internet this weekend to see if someone has an SST that would fit. $2700 is a steal for this bike. LBS said that he *might* have a lead on one. He also expects to see a new 2011 SST 2.0 this weekend. So I'll go take a look, if it comes in.

Our riding weather is not looking good for the next week or so. Turning colder and has been wetter more often already than last year at this time. Oh, well. We were really got spoile by last year. Probably once in a lifetime thing to ride every month of the year up here.


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## Nitrobike

*Seat post*

I bought a 2010 SST 1.0 frame recently, built it up with all DA two weeks ago. 56cm, 14.5 pounds without pedals. Awesome bike. Cutting the seatpost was a piece of cake, just used a band saw for a nice square cut. I also cut several spacers out of the remaining frame piece..1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" for future owner if ever needed..as it turns out I did a bike fitting at UC Davis Sports Performance Lab in Sacramento, CA (Eric Heiden's baby) and they had me raise the seat 1/8" so I inserted the 1/8" spacer inside the seat post clamp. While a spacer is not mandantory it makes good sense so torque on post clamp bolt can be reduced to eliminate risk of overtightening. Also, I took the frame into the local Performance Dealer; they had a SST 3.0 in stock with the traditional, aero male seat post and it fits perfectly inside the SST 1.0 frame so if anyone that has a 1.0 or 2.0 and wants to sell it to someone with much longer legs, that is an option. It would just require drilling a hole and cutting a slot in the frame like the 3.0 has. That would be a piece of cake too.


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## Mainebikah

Makes sense. Good to know... Thanks!! Did you buy a bike from Ivan himself or does he have a shop? Nice touch, getting the bike signed by one of the sports' best sprinters. 

I lived in Cuba for about 10 years, so I'm a little partial toward Cubans. That Island has suffered through a lot, before and since the revolution. People there are still incredibly nice.


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## docwayner

wow Nitrobike 14.5 pounds with Dura Ace is great, I have size 54 with DA and sometimes put Easton EA 90slx clinchers and at best mine comes in at 16.8 lbs dead on with pedals.
I would say with pedals your SST 1.0 set up is likely 1.2 to 1.5 pounds lighter. What wheels are you running?
Well I guess that's why its a 1.0 instead of a 2.0
Awesome that you were able to get it from Ivan Dominguez, 
Good luck Mainbikah, hope you end up getting what you want hopefully you can land an 2010 SST 2.0


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## Nitrobike

Hi Doc,

I too have SLX wheels. Easton EC 90 bars, 100mm Ritchey Stem, 150gm saddle and a few other minor weight saving items. With Speedplay pedals and titanium water bottle holders it sits at 15.1 lbs using my bicycle shop's scale which is reportedly accurate. My shipping scale said the bike was a few ounces lighter yet but I think the bike shop's scale is correct.


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## Mainebikah

Thanks, docwayner... I'm looking and my LBS is looking!


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## AlexChiTwn

*Mine Fuji SST 1.0*

Fuji bikes start coming up with really nice bikes lately. Here is mine SST 1.0. I actually originally purchased end of 2008 Fuji Team RC 2008 model with Dura Ace drive train and Mavic Elite wheel set. It was great bike but had to replace fork under warranty early this summer. Performance guys couldn't get matching one so they offered me replacement, new SST 2.0 2009 frame. Too bad the only size left was 61cm, too big for me. Then I asked them about 2010 SST 1.0. We negotiated and I ended up with that frameset instead. What a difference compared to Team RC! I did bike fitting with the local cycle shop and we cut seatmast few times 5-10 mm at the time to ensure we don’t make it too short. With this frame and same components from my Team RC, my power output increased so my average speed went up probably 15% or so. Love this bike!

The picture below is before the cut was made (Fuji cutting gide still attached). After the cut the bottom of the Ritchey clamp is about 1/2 inch above "F" letter... I also replaced Ritchey steam and bars with FSA carbon OS-99 CSI steam and carbon handlebar


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## magnetic62nd

*SST Frame Weight*

Does anyone know the frame weight on SST 2.0 vs the 1.0? With the only difference being the grade of carbon, its hard to figure out were the 1.5 pound difference is coming from.

I'm looking at options and they currently include a great deal on the 2.0 complete, which I could sell off the group to off-set the cost of the frameset a little, or just buying a BH G5 frameset.


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## Nitrobike

*2.0 weight*

The 2.0 frame weights 1370 gm (according to performance website) so there is about a 14 ounce diff between 1.0 and 2.0. Apparently the 2.0 is being offered without paint and the internal seat post at $1399 but you can get 25% off right now if you are a member (15% coupon and 10% members discount) so the price would be only $1050. If it were me I would wait until they have the 2011 SST 1.0 frames; they were $2K in 2010 meaning $1500 or less with discounts and or sales. Another possible way to save money is if you have any friends or relatives in a nearby state where they don't have any retail outlets have them ship there as they don't have to charge sales tax.


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## Nitrobike

*Ivan Dominguez*

I don't think Ivan has a shop as he is a ful time Pro racer. He was instrumental in the design of the SST frame. Ivan told me he LOVED the bike. I now know why.


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## Nitrobike

*Hey Doc*

The weight diff between your bike and mine seems high. Mine weighs 15.1 lbs with pedals and cages. My speedplay pedals and titanium water bottle cages come in at 240 grams or just over 1/2 lb. You said you have all DA, what about your handlebar, stem, steering stem bolt/plug and cap, crankset, bar wrap, seat, chain, cassette, tires and tubes? All aforementioned are pretty light on my bike. Your wheelset is 100gms more than mine; the frame is about 400 grams so there's a half a kilo. If you want to bother looking up the individual weights of each of the other items on your bike maybe we can identify some or all of the discrepancy.


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## AlexChiTwn

Nitrobike said:


> The 2.0 frame weights 1370 gm (according to performance website) so there is about a 14 ounce diff between 1.0 and 2.0. Apparently the 2.0 is being offered without paint and the internal seat post at $1399 but you can get 25% off right now if you are a member (15% coupon and 10% members discount) so the price would be only $1050. If it were me I would wait until they have the 2011 SST 1.0 frames; they were $2K in 2010 meaning $1500 or less with discounts and or sales. Another possible way to save money is if you have any friends or relatives in a nearby state where they don't have any retail outlets have them ship there as they don't have to charge sales tax.


1370g Performance site is for 2009 2.0 frameset, not 2010 

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1091618&cm_mmc=$(referrer)$-_-Bikes/Frames-_-FUJI-_-30-3344&CSE=GooglePS&mr:trackingCode=15D3CC73-5166-DF11-BAA3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA


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## Nitrobike

*2.0 frame at Perf*

That makes sense as it has the other style seat post. The description on Performance's site says that frame is made of C7 carbon and in another paragraph is states C4 carbon. I wonder if the 09 is different carbon than the 2010.


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## frdfandc

The 2010 SST is totally different than the 2009 as far as design goes. The 2010 is a much nicer bike overall.

The 09 SST 1.0 and 2.0 uses the C7 carbon make up.

The 2010 SST's use the D6 carbon for the 1.0 and Limited and C4 for the 2.0 and 3.0


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## Nitrobike

2010: SST 1.0 uses C7, 2.0 and 3.0 use C4
2011: SST 1.0 uses D6, 2.0 and 3.0 use C4

Both C4 and C7 are high modulus fabrics; C7 has higher tensile strength than C4, C7 = lighter weight for a given strength or stronger for the same weight

Anyone know how the properties of D6 compare?


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## frdfandc

OOPS, my bad. I keep forgetting that Fuji updated their website. 

Nitro has it correct.

The D6 uses properties from the C10 and C7. I have the new catalog at work.


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## Nitrobike

It was posted by a former Fuji Bikes product manager that both C7 and C4 were high modulus, the diff being C7 had a higher tensile strength. Does that mean C10 has a higher tensile strength than C7? I read that some of the team riders prefered C7 carbon as the C10 bikes flexed too much. Does anyone know how the various properties of C10 and D6 differ from C7?


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## kvnhlstd

Quick question for the SST 2.0 owners.... I own a 2010 SST 2.0 with the ISP, for the last three months I have had an annoying creek/squeak coming from the seatpost area. I have taken it back to Performance twice now and applying liberal amounts of carbon paste has not cured the issue, any ideas??? I'm about done with it, I love the bike but that noise kills me.


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## Nitrobike

*Creak in seat post*

I have had bikes that sounded like they were creaking in the seat and turned out the noise was coming from the bottom bracket....creaks can be hard to isolate. If the creaking is indeed coming from the ISP I would thoroughly clean off the carbon paste and try spraying the frame top and inside the seat post with pure silicone lube. Also, look carefully for cracks in the Ritchey post or frame. BTW, my SST 1.0 has no creaks anywhere. I love that bike.


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## docwayner

Hi kvnhlstd,

I had the same problem with my SST 2.0 ISP and seat clamp.
Many people have this issue from folks I've talked to around the shop who own either the 2010 2.0 or 1.0 model of course the 3.0 has a different seat post mechanism so it doesn't have this problem.
The problem for me was that the ritchey clamp did not fit completely snug on the ISP, so the whole unit saddle and clamp would creak and even slightly rotate down if I hit a pot hole or bump a long the road.
They simply solved this by making a shim out of nothing more then the plastic sleeves they use to hold the paper price tags that they display on their bikes.
Its as easy as that if indeed the creek is coming from the saddle and clamp unit.
If the creeking is coming from the crank then do you notice it creaking when you apply more power to the cranks and pedal harder.
Putting carbon paste on the ISP is not necessary simply make a shim.
Some have even used aluminum coke cans, but I find the hard plastic price tag sleeves work great.


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## Nitrobike

*Creaking In Seat Post*

My seat post has a pretty snug fit which explains why no creaking.


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## kvnhlstd

Nitro,Doc,
Thanks for the input... I know it has to be the clamp area, every time I come out of the saddle the sound goes away. I will let the shop guys know what I have found out here.


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## kvnhlstd

Another question guys... what do you torgue the seatclamp at nm wise.... 7nm???


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## AlexChiTwn

kvnhlstd said:


> Another question guys... what do you torgue the seatclamp at nm wise.... 7nm???


I asked that question my direct Fujis contact (for SST 1.0):
Ritchey Clamp max torque: 5nm. I did mine at 4nm, just to be safe, He also recommended use of thin aluminum shim for snag fit if the clamp moves. I didn't need to nor there is any give with 4nm torque.

Recomended Carbon steerer torque 6-9. I did mine at 6 nm (I have FSA OS99 CSI carbon stem that displays 6nm max)

Hope it helps.


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## AlexChiTwn

Nitrobike said:


> It was posted by a former Fuji Bikes product manager that both C7 and C4 were high modulus, the diff being C7 had a higher tensile strength. Does that mean C10 has a higher tensile strength than C7? I read that some of the team riders prefered C7 carbon as the C10 bikes flexed too much. Does anyone know how the various properties of C10 and D6 differ from C7?


There is absolutely no any difference b/w SST 1.0 2011 and 2010 frames, beside the color scheme of course. I beleve C7 and D6 carbon are the same thing, just marketing lingo game...


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## AlexChiTwn

Italianrider76 said:


> Is the 2011 1.0 actually different to the 2010 1.0??? The frames look the same. I've noticed that the 2011 is made from D-6 carbon and the 2010 is C-7 but other than that are there any differences regarding frame design?


no difference in frames, C7 and D6 is the same thing. Just markting lingo strategy...


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## K_Man

I own the 2010 Fuji SST 2.0 and absolutely love it. I got it at Performance Bicycle on one of their sale weekends for the unbelievable price of ~$2200. I went through a professional fitting prior to my seat mast cut. I actually had the mast cut twice as the first cut was a little bit too conservative. My second cut was perfect. I haven't noticed any problem with creaking in the seat mast area.


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## mannaggia

Last July I managed to get the SST 1.0 here in London from Germany. I badly wanted it but Fuji said it was not available in the UK.
Anyway, I just love the bike but coming from mountain biking I have found the frame to be slightly too large. The bike is a 56 cm, I am 1.82cm or 5.9' with long legs, always ridden smallish mountain bikes for manoeuvrability and found that streching out a roady feels a bit odd. Got no pain anywhere, just feels too long. I changed the handlebar for a shorter reach and would like to change the 110 stem to 100. But before I do I was wondering what size do you guys ride?? Should I just wait a little longer? I went for a bike fitting but the guy was a twat and did not get the advice I wanted. I should add that my saddle is apparently correctly positioned. Would not want to move it forward.

Forgot to mention: last year I asked Fuji why the stubby is so heavy, their answer was "At the moment we are working on a carbon version of the stubby which should be available by the end of September 2010. Weight reduction will be around 70 gramms"

Does anybody know if that is true? I have asked in November but got no reply. Found nothing on the net.


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## Nitrobike

*Fuji fit*

I think the 120mm stem is much too long. Take the 56cm top tube, add the stem and you have 68cm. I am 5'11", 56cm frame and installed a 100mm stem for 66cm total. Subsequently I was fitted at U.C. Davis bike lab and they said it was just right. 

I would try a 80mm stem (or even shorter). With and 80 cm stem you would have 64cm total distance which should be much better for you.


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## twain

*Definitely too big*



mannaggia said:


> The bike is a 56 cm, I am 1.82cm or 5.9' with long legs, always ridden smallish mountain bikes for manoeuvrability and found that streching out a roady feels a bit odd. .


I'm 6' and ride a 56 and use a 100mm stem. Seems irresponsible that they fitted you with such a large size. Definitely try a much shorter stem. The rule of thumb is that with your hands on the hoods, back straight, as you look down the handlebar should evenly cross over the front hub. That is, the front hub should be obscured.
When you do this, most likely the front hub is way forward.

It would be interesting if you measured the distance from the tip of your saddle to the center of the steerer tube on both road and mtn bikes. In my mind, they shouldn't be too much off.


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## mannaggia

Sorry, just realized I typed 120 instead of 110. I corrected it.
My problem could also come from the fact that I used to ride a mountain bike with a "small" frame for 5 years, for some reason I loved it except when I fell off going at silly speeds downhill.

I guess I could have bought a 54 cm but the head tube size scared me a little, was too short.
I will try the 100 then, hopefully I won't have to go below that.
Thanks guys


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## Nitrobike

*fuji fit*

Changing your stem 1 cm will be of small consequence. Try 90 max, I think 80 will serve you better
Phil


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## audiojan

Why do you want to go with a stem that short? In general, a slightly longer stem will make the front end more stable (note, not stiffer) and less twitchy. A shorter stem can negatively affect handling...


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## Nitrobike

*Shorter stem*

I suggested a shorter stem in an effort to make a bike that was a bit too big fit the rider better. The SST 1.0 is not inherently fast handling or twitchy so I expect it will be ok. Certainly worth trying vs. getting a whole new frame.


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## audiojan

Ok, I can understand that.

Unfortunately, this only points out how important it is to have a bike fitting BEFORE purchasing a bike... why in the world would you try to fit you to a bike instead of a bike to you?!


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## Nitrobike

You often need to do some fitting with a new bike. If you look closely at the bike fitting philosophy of Grant at Rivendale Custom Bikes it would seem the bike is of proper size for Mannagia; he feels many people ride bikes too small for them:

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/choosing_a_frame_size


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## frdfandc

audiojan said:


> Why do you want to go with a stem that short? In general, a slightly longer stem will make the front end more stable (note, not stiffer) and less twitchy. A shorter stem can negatively affect handling...




A shorter stem has almost zero effect on handling. There was a discussion a few weeks ago on the same thing.


http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=236634


Put the on the stem that helps your reach. I'm 6'1"-6'2" and ride a 58cm Fuji Roubaix Pro with an 80mm stem. A 56 with a longer stem didn't work for me at all.


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## trhoppe

Here's a cheap way to get an SST2.0 at Performance:

1) Find the SST 3.0 for sale at $1799
2) As long as it is new, Performance will swap out parts and give full credit back for the old parts
3) I swapped Crank, Shifters, Brakes, Der's, Cassette all to the 2011 Ultegra 6700
4) There was only around a $200 difference in components from the 105 to Ultegra. Shifters: $90, Der's: $30, Cranks: $60, Cassette: $5, Brakes: $30
5) We're at $2000. 
6) Minus 20% (find a 20% off sale, mine happed to be Black Friday, I'm sure they will have another, as they have 20% off everything sales often)
7) We're at $1600
8) It's going to take them 1 day to swap all the parts, so put the bike on "layaway" on day 1
9) When you go back to pick it up on day 2, the 10% "performance credit" hits, as it's 24 hours later, and layaway items are eligible
10) Walk out with your Ultegra equipped SST 3.2.0 for $1440 + tax

I really like mine. It's a rocket ship!

edit: If you wanted the Ksyrium Equipe wheels, you could upgrade to those for $200 at time of purchase as well. As this is my training bike for mountain biking, I opted for the extra 100 grams, but the $200 savings. If I ever decide to get into road bike crits or something, I'll get a 2nd set of Ksyrium Elite (250 grams lighter) wheels or something stupid light like Zipps

-Tom


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## Sablotny

*Seatmast conversion to non-ISP possible?*

I'm on the fence for one of these good lookin' SST 2.0's. Just wondering if the ISP could be cut down and a 2011 standard/non-ISP clamp could be used, if the need or desire arose. Anyone have a 2011 to check?


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## Nitrobike

*Yes you can use SST 3.0 seatpost*

I have a SST 1.0 and the SST 3.0 seatpost fits perfectly inside. While I use the integrated post provided with the SST 1.0, I saw a SST 3.0 at Performance bike so I took mine in and tried it. All that would be required is to simply drill a hole and cut a slot to allow the carbon to yeild when tightening the clamp down. It would be a very simple operation for anyone that is handy with a drill and coping saw, just need to mimic the hole and slot where the seat post inserts in the SST 3.0 or any other carbon frame. I make carbon panels and parts in my home shop; carbon is very easy to work with but avoid breathing the dust created from sawing, sanding, drilling etc.


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## Sablotny

Awesome news Nitro - thanks much.


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## Sablotny

delaaaaaaayed double post sry


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## Nitrobike

*to Sablotny*

yea, I was glad to find that out. If I ever wanted to sell my bike to someone that needed a much higher seat height that would be a good way to go. 

Phil


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## Sablotny

D'oh - Bummer news from Fuji. They won't sell the 2011 seatpost and clamp aftermarket, just because they don't want to be liable for somebody's fudge job on the frame cut & drill. Might have to cozy up with a Fuji LBS later and claim my post was stolen... because I just hit the buy button on the 2010 SST!


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## Nitrobike

*Seat Post*

Sablotny,

Congrats on buying the SST frame! Did you buy off Ebay? If your LBS would or could not get you one I'm sure you could find one somewhere.


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## Sablotny

Ebay buy... NIB from an LBS! How 'bout that? 

Hope my 2.0 has those stiffening ribs like the 1.0. That's what I got all excited about.


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## Nitrobike

*Sst 2.0*

Yes the 2.0 has RIB technology. I think it is for all practical purposes the 2.0 is as good as the 1.0.


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## tombba

Howdy,new member here.I"m looking at a 2011 SST 1.0 and am wondering about size as well as there are no local shops that stock the hi end bikes.I"m 5-10.5 and have a 32 in inseam.Thinking about a 54cm or 56cm.I know Fuji"s run a little " big" I"ve heard for their stated size.currently ride a 56cm litespeed Classic from 11 years ago Thanks!


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## K_Man

tombba said:


> Howdy,new member here.I"m looking at a 2011 SST 1.0 and am wondering about size as well as there are no local shops that stock the hi end bikes.I"m 5-10.5 and have a 32 in inseam.Thinking about a 54cm or 56cm.I know Fuji"s run a little " big" I"ve heard for their stated size.currently ride a 56cm litespeed Classic from 11 years ago Thanks!


I'm 6' 3" with a 36" inseam. I have a 2010 Fuji SST 2.0 with a 60 cm frame. It fits me perfectly.

FYI, I have long legs, and the frame has a long top tube/short head tube, so I needed a +30 degree stem to keep the vertical drop to the bars under control.

K_Man


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## docwayner

Hi Tombba, 
I'm 5 feet 9 inches and bought a 54 with a 54.5 cm ETT (effective top tube length), in retrospect and once I was fit by a professional, turns out 52 with a 53.5 would have been more ideal, given my measurements (more leg then torso and arm length).
I'd look at the ETT of the bike and compare it to your current. I also like to run a longer stem 110mm to 120mm so I prefer a bike with a shorter ETT. The SST is a super stiff monster, when I test rode the smaller size I found that I enjoyed the handling a lot more, and the bike was more responsive by far with the smaller sizing.

Personal preference really.

Good luck man, you can't go wrong with the SST.


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## Sablotny

I base my frame sizing on the TT now, which is pretty safe given all the funky carbon tube shaping and such. I'm 5'-11", 32" inseam and the 56 SST fits me well.

I gotta say, it is one stiff mutha, and back country roads can be brutal. I switched to 25c's at lower pressure, that's been the saving grace for this racey frame.


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## tombba

I"m actually considering the Altimera 1.0 as well as I occasionally do 4-5 hr mtn rides here in Wa. state.The comfort issue on long rides has me a bit concerned going with the SST but the performance aspect of the bike might be worth it(I"m 182 lbs.and think It would be a gas to have this dragster:thumbsup.I don"t race anymore just the fast fitness rides with my crew and occasional centuries etc.How do you guys feel about the SST on the longer rides?


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## Sablotny

Ah, nice to hear about a fellow power rider. I'm 184 pounds, need to be 180 in time for Levi's Gran Fondo in Rocktober. What's "too stiff" for some more lightly built fellas is a "dragster" for others more muscle-y built. The SST is indeed Super Stiff, but just switching to 25c tires makes the bike fine on longer rides. From what I've seen, you've got much nicer pavement in WA than we do in CA, I say go for it.


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## tombba

I"m usually just a couple of Coronas away from 184 myself!There"s a good reveiw of the SST 1.0 by a local guy I know in Hood River Ore.where I do alot my riding in the summer.He got me thinking Fuji in the first place and recommends the tubeless route to smooth out the ride.Check it out.This site won"t allow me to post a link until I have 10 posts,you can try to google "Fuji sst1.0 reveiws"and then look for a revweiw from "T and Naes cycle" to find his site,btw,what are 25"s?Thnx


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## docwayner

Never having ridden the Altamira I can't speak about it from personal experience; however, I've ridden my SST on plenty of 100+ mile training rides in southern California and throughout the city of LA and didn't find it to be a problem for me at all. I now own a Super Six frame and can say that the Super Six is more of plush ride, but it also has some features that the SST lacks (raked fork, hour glass seat stays) the fork on the SST is MASSIVE and built for a sprinter. I think it has to be one of the beefiest forks out there. If you ride the Altamira and notice a huge difference in compliance I'd go with the Altamira for comfort sake. Plus from looking at the geometries size for size the Altamira offers about 1cm of extra head tube length versus the SST which could allow you to be in more of an upright position if desired. If you want a cush machine go get a Specialized Roubaix, it doesn't get more compliant then that. The Roubaix was made for comfort, compliance, while still allowing for efficient power transfer/stiffness. Good luck man


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## Nitrobike

*SST on long rides*

I have had my SST 1.0 since last fall and I have found the bike quite comfortable on long rides. I did the Death Ride (130 miles, 15,000' climbing) a few weeks back and felt refreshed and feeling strong at the end of the day. 

BTW, 5/11", 32" inseam, 165lbs. I have the 56cm frame, professionally fitted by Jud at UC Davis Performance Lab who said the bike is the perfect size for me.

Phil


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## tombba

Thanks for the great info guys,I"m going the SST and a 56cm.Never had a pure race machine before.It"s good knowing the 100+ mile rides weren"t a problem either.


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## Nitrobike

*sst*

You will love it


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## K_Man

I've taken my SST 2.0 on many medium-distance rides (35-40 milers) and am planning to take it on my first century ride this September. I've also used my SST 2.0 in several triathlons, including the Vineman Half Ironman triathlon (56-mile bike leg) a few weekends ago. The bike seems comfortable enough on long rides, and I love how the stiffness of the frame makes me feel like the effort I'm putting into my pedal strokes is really paying off. But that won't stop me from getting a new triathlon bike (maybe a Cervelo P2) in the near future. I feel like I'm going to need to be in the tri-bike position more often in order to reach my full potential on the bike and run legs of triathlons, and I don't think simply adding aero bars to my SST 2.0 will get me there.


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## tombba

hey guys,still debating between a 54 or 56 cm SST.One question on sizing please.On my current 56cm Litespeed when seated with hands on the hoods in normal riding position,as I look through the handlebars the front wheel axle is "ahead' by about an inch and it"s got a 120mm stem.Using the common handlebar-axle relationship for sizing would that mean the bike is too long or short?I"m 5-10.5 with a 33inch pubic bone to floor measurement.Alot of guys I spoke with have slightly smaller size in the SST.One shop owner that rides one usually is on a58cm Trek or other brand and went 56cm SST and is very happy with the fit.I"m thinking future resale too,I"ll have a relatively longer seat post(for future cuts)for more potential buyers.Thanks


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## Sablotny

Outside of having a professional fitting for $$$, I would say just focus on the top tube length. Worrying about how your handlebars look in relation to the front wheel is, I gotta say, a little silly. All the frame geometries are published - compare what you have with what you want in relation to your current ride. If you need to add or subtract 10mm from your stem, it will be fine.


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## farid77

*Hi to all....*

Hi to all of you, I'm newbies here. I'm looking for Fuji SST 3.0. What is the exact bike size for my height? I'm 175cm or 5'9" tall. So, what is the size? Is it S(52) or M(54)?


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## tombba

good advice man,I"m falling into the over analyzing,cork sniffing trap.I gotta just get the bike and start riding!


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## smoothie7

I just seen a sneak peak picture of the 2012 Fuji SST 1.0
Let me tell you, it is one sweet bike!!! I'm still drooling


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## Nitrobike

*sizing*

Probably a 54cm but see if you can try both sizes


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## Nitrobike

*2012 sst 1.0*

Where did you see the pic?


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## smoothie7

I follow them on twitter and they released a picture of the new sst 1.0


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## tombba

I"ve got my order into my LBS for a 2012 SST 1.0.I have a curious question on these bikes.Every so often you hear of the dreaded bike shimmy or wobble that happens on fast descents.Well it happened to me last week on my litespeed descending at about 35-40 mph down a mtn descent,and it was just after I had my wheels trued to boot.Kind of unnerving but I came to a stop and everything was fine(I"m sure I could have stopped it by applying knee pressure to the frame in hindsight but didn"t know what was going on).So my question is,due to the stiff frame-fork of the SST would that portend less of a chance for the bike wobble?


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## K_Man

I just did the Tour de Tahoe, which is a 72-mile ride around Lake Tahoe that includes several 40+ mph descents, on my SST 2.0. I had never reached speeds of over 40 mph on my SST until this ride. I can say that I was as comfortable as I think I could ever be on a bike going at that speed. I did not notice any wobbles like what you described. Although the frame is a light carbon frame, it looks and feels pretty substantial.


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## Nitrobike

*Shimmy? No*

I have had my SST 1.0 at 55mph, rock solid. The bike handles like a dream in all situations.


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## markgiardini

Hi guys.

Just came across this thread - here's mine.










These aint the lightest bike out there, but they are very stiff and very aggressive.
I actually owned an SL3 S-Works before this, and was some what let down by it, and read really good reviews from a couple of Australian cycling magazines about the SST.

I ordered the frame thru my local and yeah, have down about 500 km on her now.
It will be interesting to see the price diff at my LBS between this frame and the new years one..


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## Nitrobike

*Your new SST*

Markgiardini,

What did you not like about the S-Works SL3? What is your take on the differences between the two? 

I would not trade my SST 1.0 for anything. It is the best race bike I have ever ridden.


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## markgiardini

Hi Nitrobike.

I was a little under whelmed with the S-Works bike - ie the stiffness and agility weren't there in my opinion. Obviously now, with the Venge, Specialized do have a super stiff sprinting bike, so they've fixed that, but for me, yeah, I was a tad dissapointed in the SL3.

There's no doubt the SST is heavier than the Tarmac, and the pedigree isn't there, but you do get a super stiff bike which flies up the hills and definately gets the power to the wheels, and yeah, I love it!


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## polaxo

*Seat Mast Topper*



markgiardini said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> Just came across this thread - here's mine.
> 
> 
> 
> These aint the lightest bike out there, but they are very stiff and very aggressive.
> I actually owned an SL3 S-Works before this, and was some what let down by it, and read really good reviews from a couple of Australian cycling magazines about the SST.
> 
> I ordered the frame thru my local and yeah, have down about 500 km on her now.
> It will be interesting to see the price diff at my LBS between this frame and the new years one..


 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Markgiardini, 

I'm trying to find a seat mast topper for an 2012 SST with aft and forward adjust-ability, and I noticed that your picture shows a Ritchey topper with such feature. If that's the case, would you mind sharing the details of sourcing this component? Did it come with your bike?


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## markgiardini

Hi mate.
The Ritchey stubby came standard with my 2011 SST.
Sorry I can't help any more than that.

Mark.


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## polaxo

Hi Mark, 

Thanks for the tip... I would contact Ritchey to source one of these.... do you happen to have the part number?


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## markgiardini

Hi bud.
I've looked on the stubby and on the documentation etc, but all it calls it is "Ritchey WCS AERO Stubby"

Sorry I can't help any more than that - maybe try fujibikes.com - support seem pretty good!


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## polaxo

Hi Mark... No problem, you've done a lot. Thanks for looking, I'm sure I could get complete details of the stubby with fuji.


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## markgiardini

Try here mate 

Fuji Bikes - Contact Us


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## tyjacks

*Fuji Owners and Review*

Hey All, interested in a 2012 Fuji SST 1.0 frame. Local riders have said stay away from the brand, they flex like and ride like wet noodles. Want an opionon from some people how actually own and ride the brand. I'm 6'3" weight s 230lbs, currently a Ridley Noah, which has been a great bike, looking for something new for 2012.

Thx...


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## markgiardini

The SST (Super Stiff Team) is called that for a reason...they are ultra stiff.
In fact, the only thing I've found stiffer is my friend's Dogma.

Have these guys who are saying they flex even ridden one?
They are very stiff mate, with no flex I've noticed at all.


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## markgiardini

twain said:


> I did this with my Scott Plasma. Absolutely no issues with it. Essentially it is like a threadless stem and spacers. If the cuts are straight, there are no issues with rocking. The load is displaced. But definitely ask the shop for the cut bit just in case.
> 
> This said, integrated seat masts certainly look cool and may have some performance benefits. But my guess is the risks of resale value and "accidents" out weigh (pun intended) the cool factor.


My bike guy suggested the exact same thing - keeping the excess tubing to use a a shim should I ever adjust the height.


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## tyjacks

Hmm, thats good to hear, Yep thats why I posted here was to get feedback from people that actually own and ride the brand. The SST 1.0 really looks good, when will they be available?


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## markgiardini

I've got a feeling the 2012 models are already out..


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## Nitrobike

tyjacks said:


> Hey All, interested in a 2012 Fuji SST 1.0 frame. Local riders have said stay away from the brand, they flex like and ride like wet noodles. Want an opionon from some people how actually own and ride the brand. I'm 6'3" weight s 230lbs, currently a Ridley Noah, which has been a great bike, looking for something new for 2012.
> 
> Thx...


Tyjacks: Those misguided opinions come from experience with some of the earlier fuji's. The SST1.0 has an ultra strong frame and was designed to appeal to powerful sprinters. At 1060 grams it is not the lightest frame out there but that extra weight allows it to efficiently transfer power and absorb years of professional level punishment. I is very stiff but at the same time long distance comfort is not an issue at all. In my opinion one of its best attributes is the handling. It turns better than anything I have ever ridden and is rock solid at any speed. If you get it you won't be disappointed, the SST 1.0 rocks!


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## markgiardini

Agreed!

I love my SST 1.0!


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## ejprez

Colorado Cyclist has a C4 SST, which has an ISP, left over in 56cm and 58cm. I believe I'm a 58, but does anyone have any details how the C4 compares to the D6 carbon version. Like weight and riding characteristics.


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## trhoppe

I've got an SST3 upgraded with all Ultegra. I believe it's the same frame as the other SSTs. It's the opposite of flexy, and honestly for me, it's a touch too stiff. I think my next bike will be something like a Specialized Rubaix or similar to absorb some of the harsher pavement that I'm forced to ride on. I don't race the road bike, I use it for training for my mountain bike racing. 

Having said that, a couple of guys that race crits around here have the SSTs and love them for that purpose. 

-Tom


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## leacoda

Hello All
I have been shopping for a Fuji SL 1.0 2011 and I came across the following company ‘*sale-bikes *‘ selling the bike

Their address: 
Jl. Dr Semeru No 13 
Bogor - Jawa Barat 
16112
Indonesia

The bike is listed for $787.00 shipping $120.00.
Has anyone out there used this company and has any comments regarding such a deal?


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## trhoppe

LOL. You know you can also send money to Nigeria. They will send you back a cashier's check and you can pocket the difference.


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## leacoda

*SST from far east*

"If it sounds too good to be true, it probably isn't". Good saying to go by.


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## markgiardini

leacoda said:


> Hello All
> I have been shopping for a Fuji SL 1.0 2011 and I came across the following company ‘*sale-bikes *‘ selling the bike
> 
> Their address:
> Jl. Dr Semeru No 13
> Bogor - Jawa Barat
> 16112
> Indonesia
> 
> The bike is listed for $787.00 shipping $120.00.
> Has anyone out there used this company and has any comments regarding such a deal?


Steer clear mate - all those Indo bike 'shops' are known scam sites.


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## chitown240

If any of you out there are looking a very nice 2011 SST 1.0 i have one for sale. This has been by far the best Crit bike i've ever owned hands down. Let me know if you have any questions... 

its listed on this site and also on ebay.

Ride on!!!


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## Nitrobike

I have an extra Ritchey Stubby seat post topper for the SST. Designed for the 1.0 but will fit on SST 2.0 and 3.0 if you want to replace the stock male seat post $75.00 plus shipping


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## marcm

docwayner said:


> Not quite sure if that bike at Fountain Valley was my old frame or not. I was told that the day my replacement frame came in and they switched over my drive train, they sold the old frame with new wheels and Ultegra 6700 groupo to another customer. I would imagine at a pretty discounted price since their was a few signs of wear at around the bottom braket.
> 
> Yeah they cut it way way too short, but made good on it so I'll continue to support my local Performance shops. After all after buying the SST 2.0 I went ahead and bought a Fuji D6 Pro TT bike from them as well 1 week later.
> 
> Yeah UJI is no good it definitely should say FUJI
> The new frame was cut perfect and it does say FUJI on the seat post. The picture attached shows the replacement frame, you can kind of see that the seat post is significantly higher, the difference is 4 fold in how much power I'm getting. Big thanks to Ron Peterson of Peterson training.


Looks like you're riding the old Templin highway...nice climb...crappy road.


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## Etan125

Can someone post a good price range for a store built 2011?


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## mokos_13

I am looking into buying a SST 2.0 2011, and I would like to know if anyone of you know if this year's model has RIB Tech. in the frame. I have read the specifications on this bike and it does not mention it. The fork of the bike does not have, but not the frame!! How can this be. Was this a change from 2010 to 2011? 

By the way, the 2011 SST 1.0 specs. do mention RIB tech in the frame. Could it possible that for 2011 Fuji did not include this feature in the SST 2.0 and 3.0?

Thank you in advance,
Mark


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## Mambac

I am also looking to buy the 2014 SST. I can see this is a rather old thread, and Fuji has since changed their SST frames from D series carbon to C5 and C10. Between the 1 series and 2 series SSt's, does the C10 offer the same stiffness as the heavier C5? Also, I will probably not be going the Di2 route, so I dont want the frame to have Di2 holes drilled. I see that the Di2 equipped bikes have holes drilled in the seat tube and chainstay, but do the mechanical equipped frames have these Di2 holes factory drilled?


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## Nitrobike

I do not know the answers to your questions. I think you should call Fuji and ask for the product manager. BTW, I still have both my 2010 SST 1.0's and love them. One for training, one for racing. Not one problem with either of them.


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