# clean freehub without disassembly?



## loachapoka (Jan 4, 2010)

I just bought my first road bike from Craigslist, a 2004 Allez Elite, and it's in need of some maintenance. 

The freehub seems to have become either gunked up or lubricated with something too heavy. When I spin the back wheel it doesn't make the usual clicking noise and it has enough friction to make the pedals turn slightly. 

I've searched the forum and looked up maintenance instructions on Park Tools but I was wondering if I could get away without disassembly? I'm not even sure what kind of cassette and freehub I have - it doesn't seem to be the original setup. It's nine speed and says SRAM on the little ring at the outside of the cassette. The ring seems to be plastic. So I don't even know which tool I would need for removing the cassette. 

Could I simply soak it in some degreaser or WD-40 and then try to work new lube in without taking off cassette and freehub or is that impossible?


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## bcl489 (Sep 11, 2009)

not quite possible. check out the park tools bike map - tells you the tools you need for every job. http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp

first thing you'll need to do is remove the cassette. you'll need a shimano/sram (same pattern) lockring socket and chainwhip (or rag if you have resilient hands) to hold the freehub so it doesn't spin backwards when you try to turn the lockring counter clockwise. then, depending on your hub design, you'll need either hex wrenches or cone wrenches to loosen the axle nuts so you can pull off the freehub. then wipe and degrease with citrus degreaser on a rag, and apply light lubricant (phil wood if you can get your hands on it) to the engagement mechanism, put it all back together and tighten it so the freehub spins without too much force (will probably require assembly and testing it on your bike to make sure it coasts without pulling the crank around).

good luck, and please, don't soak it in anything, and don't use wd40, especially if you have cartridge bearings in there. that could mess up seals and cartridge bearings that you may have difficulty replacing yourself. do it right - you'll learn something and know you did it correctly.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

You'll need to at least remove the skewer, cassette and preferably the axle, then spray teflon lube (or similar) between where the freehub spins and the hub body itself. I spray enough that it starts to drain out the 'back' (spoke side). Spin the freehub periodically while spraying the lube. Repeat until the hub starts to move freely and you hear the pawls operating (clicking). The hub may be beyond repair, but this IMO is worth a try.

EDIT: The OEM rims/ hubs were Alex ATX-330's.


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## logbiter (Sep 14, 2005)

There's also the Morningstar Freehub Buddy (morningstar tools). I've been using one for years on shimano hubs, ought to work with Alex, but if in doubt, contact the guys at morningstar, great customer service!


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## loachapoka (Jan 4, 2010)

Thank you all. You're confirming what I suspected. I just can't quite decide if I want to buy the necessary tools and give it a try. Not that I'm overly worried that I can't pull it off but right now I don't have time to get into something new time-consuming because I have a new demanding job, little kids, house that needs renovation . . . So I'm thinking about passing the job to my LBS. Any ideas what a good tune up (everything is a bit gunky/sticky on this bike, brakes, cables, the whole drive train, plus the front wheel needs truing) with clean up like this should cost?


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## TWB8s (Sep 18, 2003)

loachapoka said:


> Thank you all. You're confirming what I suspected. I just can't quite decide if I want to buy the necessary tools and give it a try. Not that I'm overly worried that I can't pull it off but right now I don't have time to get into something new time-consuming because I have a new demanding job, little kids, house that needs renovation . . . So I'm thinking about passing the job to my LBS. Any ideas what a good tune up (everything is a bit gunky/sticky on this bike, brakes, cables, the whole drive train, plus the front wheel needs truing) with clean up like this should cost?


$100 or less. Call around to the LBS' in your area for the definitive answer. It will vary depending on each shops attention to detail. Here there's a shop that removes the chain, crank, cassette and rear deraileur and then soaks them in a solvent tank. The parts come out sparkling clean. The freehub cleaning will essentially be a rear hub overhaul if you get that done as well, so that might be a little extra since it's not normally part of a tune-up.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

IF you have a Shimano freehub, you're better off replacing. They're virtually "un-serviceable", like many Shimano components (except for hubs).

A '105' series freehub would be least expensive , with no significant performance or weight penalty vs a more expensive Ultegra or Dura-Ace freehub.

You also mentioned "_When I spin the back wheel it doesn't make the usual clicking noise_" 

Shimano, by design, is very quiet. It does not have the loud ratcheting of Campy, Mavic, and others. Personally, I like a bit of freehub buzz ;-)


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