# Sticky  Advice thread - Post your top 10 tips



## Francis Cebedo

C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.

You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.

No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.

francois


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## bikeboy389

*My 10 (wasn't this covered in the sticky thread?)*

For riding in downtown areas:

If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.

Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.

General:

When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).

Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.

Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.

Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.

Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.

Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).

Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.

Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.


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## purplepaul

I wish I had 10 pearls of wisdom to offer.

However, I learned one thing a real value lately.

Out of the blue, my right knee started hurting after 40 miles or so. I mean, real pain. Saddle height didn't change, shoes, pedals, cleats, all the same.

The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.

I'm lazy about stretching but at the first sign of knee pain I do it and it works.



francois said:


> C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.
> 
> You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.
> 
> No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.
> 
> francois


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## MB1

1) Ride lots.
2-10) See #1

O.K., O.K. I'll play nice.  

2) Wash and dry your waterbottles after every ride.
3) Wash and dry your shorts after every ride.
4) To go longer-slow down and stop less often.
5) Don't pay any attention to your computers average speed function.
6) Do pay attention to how long it took you to do the ride including stops.
7) Train on heavy wheels/tires.
8) Do your important events on lite wheels/tires.
9) Ride in every weather condition except hurricanes, tornadoes, lightning and ice storms.
10) See #1

A few bonuses;
b1) Only stop at rest stops long enough to pick up some food and liquid. Eat and drink on the bike.
b2) If it is not fun, don't do it.
b3) Brooks saddles work.
b4) Learn how to do your own work on your bike.
b5) Learn how to fix your own flats.
b6) You can replace an innertube and be back on the bike in less than 2 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.
b7) See #1


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## Len J

1.) Listen to MB1

2.) Don't worry too much about your first bike....just get one that fits close, ride it for a year and then go to someone who knows how to fit you on a bike and buy another bike. It will be a completely different size. If you are paying attention to maintaining a flat back, your position will stretch out and change your sizing.

3.) You only have 3 contact points with the bike, pedals/shoes, seat & Handlebars. Make sure you spare no expense in getting comfortable with these. I see way too many newbies who spend tons on a bike and go cheap on shoes/pedals and seat/shorts and can't ride distance due to comfort. Don't go cheap on the contact points.

4.) You have to break your butt in as much as you have to break your seat in. Every time you ride longer, the first time your butt will hurt, the next time it will hurt less.

5.) Work yourself up to longer distance, don't try to do it all at once. I try to add 30 minutes /week to my longest ride of the previous week.

6.) Rest is as important as hard efforts.

7.) The easiest way to gain endurance is to practice relaxation on a ride. The more relaxed you are, even at hard effort, the more blood flow and oxegen you are getting to your muscles. Tense will get you tired faster than relaxed.

8.) Work on increasing your cadence. Do this by gradually increasing the cadence you ride at. It has to be soemthing you think about. Being able to ride at multiple cadences allows you to rest different things. To rest your cardio system spin slower, to rest your legs, spin faster.

9.) A more frequent hour ride will maintain your fitness, better than an infrequent longer ride.

10.) It's not (despite what this site might say) about the equipment.

Len


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## MB1

*Thoughts on going from "off-road" to "off-dirt".*

1) Off-road riding often includes lots of really hard efforts then stopping to regroup. Off-dirt riding doesn't.

2) Pavement is just another surface, match your tires (and suspension) to the surface and everything else you own works fine.

3) It is not the bike, it is the legs.

4) It is not the legs, it is the lungs.

5) Pay no attention to miles, pay attention to time.

6) Off-Dirt hills are not steep unless you have the wrong gears. Traction is not a problem.

7) Ride off-dirt for a while before you buy a new bike. Experience is more important than equipment.

7a) Stories are often told about how some MTBer showed up at a road ride on his hardtail and blew everyone away with how well he rode. Be that guy.

8) Don't be afraid to get your off-dirt bike dirty.

9) Don't repair your bikes, maintain them.

10) The best rides of all time are all-terrain rides (on and off dirt), you can do these with either an atb or a road bike. It ain't about the bike.


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## SkiRacer55

*Here, try this...*

1. Figure out what your goals are, and _write 'em down_. Check them out again in six months...where are you? Are they still your goals? If not, readjust. Remember, we're talking about _your_ goals...where it's perfectly fine to have a goal like "Just want to lose some weight and get fitter" or "gee, doing the roadie thing looks like a stone groove." Just don't lie to yourself, and be ready to readjust. I'm an Alpine Masters ski racer in the winter, and I know all kinds of people who say "just want to have fun and improve my skills"...until they wind up DFL at the first race. I started biking because my knees couldn't take running any more (too many years of 110 days a year on skis...)...then I decide to race some...then I decided to try mountain biking...then I got back into doing the roadie thing...and so forth. The next thing I want to do is go down to Colorado Springs and take a track bike clinic. If you don't know where you're going, any plan will do...but you'll never know where you are.

2. Lots of good advice in the replies above about not worrying too much about your first bike. The only thing I'd be a little anal about is getting a frame size that's about right (don't worry too much about geometry, materials, and so forth) and tune the fit with the aid of somebody who has a clue...most likely, the folks at your LBS. A difference of a centimeter in stem length makes a _huge_ difference in bike position. There's a huge range, even for one person, in bike positions...some are more efficient/aero, others are more comfortable. Until you know what you really want, err on the side of more comfort...unneccessary pain and suffering are the two biggest reasons people quit road biking.

3. Ride alone...a lot. You've got to get comfortable with what you can do on a bike before you subject yourself to the close order drill and peer pressure of a group ride. Group rides are great, but your first one is likely to be an exercise in dodging wheels, getting yelled at for being a squirrel, and getting shucked off the back.

4. To continue #3, find a ride partner with similar goals/fitness and ride with him/her. It's the best way to pick up bike handling/paceline skills without having to worry unduly about ending up with a trip to McDonald's (a. k. a., "eating asphalt"). You'll learn a lot about all your basic skills, because one of you will climb better, one of you will spin better, and so forth. Go find a safe, deserted street and do some match sprints with your partner. It's not enough to be able to ride clean at 22 m. p. h. all day. You have to be able to accelerate to finish off a climb, to take your pull at the front in a paceline, and to make something happen fast when Bad Things start to happen.

5. Ride in a sponsored ride...for example, Elephant Rock. Shorter distance, though. Do 25 miles or 50 miles, not the full 100 mile monty. It'll be a great experience, and you'll get to ride with a wide range of riders...go-faster bike racers taking an "easy" training ride, families on tandems with a bike trailer behind, little old ladies on mountain bikes...who are leaving you in the dust...and a lot of folks just like you. 

6. Go watch a bike race. In person, I mean. Sure, you can get a feel for what it's all about by watching the TDF on OLN. But you're not gonna know what somebody can _really_ do on a bike until you go to a criterium and watch a pack of Cat 1/2/Pros wind it up to 30+ in a sprint...out of every corner.

7. Learn from your other sports. When I was teaching skiing, we used to say "You learn to play tennis in the winter, you learn to ski in the summer." Whatever else you do, it has a connection to being a roadie...think about it, make the connection, and you'll be a better athlete in _both_ sports. 

8. Pump some iron, do some stretching, do some yoga. You'll hear people say weights are a bad idea except for track sprinters. I disagree. You're about to use muscles you never used before, or use the same muscles in a different way. Your core/upper body strength is more important on a bike than most people realize...your legs do all the work, but a strong core/upper body makes a good, comfortable, enduring bike position/pedaling style possible.

9. Try some different bikes...once you get used to your steed. If your ride partner is about the same size, switch pedals, if you have to, adjust the fit, and go for a spin. You may feel better or worse, but you _will_ feel a difference. You'll feel what works for you, what doesn't, and what doesn't matter. I've had 5 road bikes in my life, all good ones. The two I have now are lighter/better/faster...but I wouldn't know that unless I rode a few bikes, and at this point, even though I'll probably have one or two more before I hit that Great Peleton in the sky, the ones I have are just peachy...as they used to say in the old days, you want to feel the road, not the bike.

10. Ya gotta love it. Biking, at any level, with any set of goals, is some hard stuff a whole lot of the time. It's not skiing, where you have gravity always available as an instant accelerator. The bike doesn't go anywhere unless you pedal it. But, wow...what a rush!...when you do pedal it. Don't ever forget that...


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## RodeRash

*"No Wisecracks!" -- Jeez!*

10) Pie is a running joke in here. Don't worry about it too much. 

9) No underwear under the riding shorts. 

8) Drafting. Stay to one side of the wheel you're drafting. Don't overlap. 

7) Learn some Italian, some French . . . chic alors, prego, ciao. 

6) Pie is good hot or cold. 

5) Snot rockets are OK. Warn others. Do it off the back of the peloton. 

4) Shaving is complicated. Asking your girlfriend for tips is OK. 

3) You can shave better than your girlfriend. Giving her tips is OK. 

2) Shimano is Japanese. No one speaks Japanese in the peloton. Pourquoi ca? 

1) Pie will get you through the miles better than the miles will get you through the pie.


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## bigrider

*My 10 Tips*

1. Ride in the rain (Unless it is really cold you don't have to dress a whole lot different) People will think you are crazy and it is fun.
2. Don't be obssesive with your bike cleaning. Just keep your shifting and drivetrain in shape. I wash my bikes three of four times a year and they serve me fine.
3. Learn how to work on your own bike, at least the little stuff.
4. Don't worry about bike weight unless you are below 10 percent body fat. It is cheaper to diet than buy lightweight bike parts.
5. If you are a big person, don't buy the lightweight expensive stuff, You will tear it up and maybe kill yourself in a wreck.
6. Carry a tire boot, make it out of an old tire with the beads cut off both side and about 3 inches long.
7. Always ask a cyclist stopped along the road if they need anything as you ride by and stop if they say yes.
8. Take rides where you aren't really sure where you are going, how you will get there and how long it will be till you get back.
9. Buy a wind vest, arm warmers and knee warmers. These three items will extend a fair weather rider's season by at least 4 months.
10. Enjoy every ride, I do.


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## RodeRash

Pie is cheaper than a light bike. 

A light bike is faster than cheap pie. 

Go figure . . .


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## rroselli

*Try to*

1) Practice clipping in and out of pedals in a parking lot. Get this down. You will fall and feel trapped in the pedals. Don't worry. Practice, adjustments and time will stem the fear.

2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim.

3) Try to avoid heavy traffic roads with narrow shoulders until you have handling of the bike down somewhat.

4) Don't ride the concrete gutters along the streets even though some are pretty wide. There are at times huge gaps between the asphalt and the gutter that can trap your wheel and send you down. 

5) Carry some change, a tube and pump. Also those little brass presta couplers incase you need to fill from a station.

6) As mentioned good clothes, helmet, gloves to wipe the brow and cycling shades are great.

7) Keep the bike clean, lubed and ready for the next ride.

8) Get to know the local LBS and ask for riding suggestions in your area.

9) Invest in a good bike rack and take it with you on a weekend trip or vacation. Riding quiet scenic back roads is some great times.

10) Have fun!


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## RodeRash

rroselli said:


> 2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim.


What's this mean? What can damage the rim? What are we clipping? My heels don't spin, but they rotate. What's untrue? 

Not being a wizazz here. I'm entirely confused by what you're talking about.


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## MB1

RodeRash said:


> What's this mean? What can damage the rim? What are we clipping? My heels don't spin, but they rotate. What's untrue?
> 
> Not being a wizazz here. I'm entirely confused by what you're talking about.


When you release your shoe from clipless pedals turn your heel AWAY from the rear wheel not TOWARDS the rear wheel.


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## rroselli

*Yup thats*

my bad. No offense taken.

2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim

Shoulda said when clipping out rotate away from the rear wheel. MB1 said it correctly. Thanks. 

When I started out road biking I would do anything to get out of those darn clipless pedals. I found it easiest to rotate inwards towards the rear wheel until once I released so hard I bent the rim(untrued) it. Learned real fast to get out of those pedals correctly.


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## cydswipe

*Okey Dokey.*

1. Buy a copy of "Zinn's guide to ....Biking maintenance" Not only is it a good read for technical answers, it has a ton of just good to know info.
2. Shop around. It is a great thing to have a LBS. However, they sometimes don't have the best deal or information. It doesn't cost anything for a second opinion. It's your money. Be well informed before you spend.
3. Buy some tools. Sure, Park Tools are great. Some other thing like wrenches, screwdrivers, allens, etc. can be had cheaper from Sears.
4. Ask questions. This forum was designed specifically for new users or first timers. Don't hesitate to ask. Unlike the other forums, here you can fire away on about any bike related topic with immunity. So, relax and fire away.
5. Do not, under any circumstance, wear underwear under you biking shorts. I'm sorry, that's just a no-no.
6. Thicken your skin. You will make mistakes about anything related to a bike. Weather it's a mechanical question or maybe your opinion on a bike related topic. Be ready to learn lessons the hard way. Everone make mistakes. Be ready to face them, then learn to not repeat them.
7. Please wear a hemet.
8. Learn the laws that apply to your area regarding headphones, bike lanes, or "share the road" programs.
9. Not every "ticking" sound is from your Bottom bracket. It only takes an eighth of a millimeter with metal to metal contact to make an audible noise. Don't panick, use your copy of Zinn's or post here.
10. Have fun!


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## Derailer

MB1 said:


> 2) Wash and dry your waterbottles after every ride.
> 3) Wash and dry your shorts after every ride.
> 4) To go longer-slow down and stop less often


I've just started using these tips. The last one was very useful today. I did 40 miles and stopped only to quickly refill my bottle. Once I get a 2nd bottle cage, I foresee at least 50% less stops.  Thanks MB1


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## Florentine Pogen

*Here is my 10 cents..*

1. Before you speed off in your car with the bike atop make sure you have your shoes! It is the one thing you can not leave behind. Helmets are very nice as well. Think about glasses, tube/lever, pump,and water!

2. Before riding bike! Tires pumped chain was oiled.

3. Water bottles kept in freezer do not need to be cleaned as often.

4. Keep 20 bucks inside your handlebar for a emergency.

5. Fix little problems with your bike as they occur. Dont let things build up.

6. Carry an ID if you ride alone.

7. Cell phones are nice too.

8. Eat good and drink lots of water all the time.

9. New tires dont go flat as often as old ones.

10. Dont overdo it, know your limits and take it easy.


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## MarkS

*Listen to MB1and Len J*

MB1 and Len J have just about said it all. But, there is one thing that I would emphasize -- learn how to ride in all weather (and light) conditions. If you only ride on perfect days, you will have lots of down time (at least in the middle and northern parts of the US). I have reached the point where I actually enjoy winter and nighttime riding. I also notice that the guys who are kicking my butt on group rides in September and then hibernate for the Winter take a long time to get up to speed in the Spring. It has taken me a long time to get up to my modest level of bike fitness -- I don't want to lose it over the Winter. 

The key to winter and nighttime riding is having the proper equipment. With the right clothing and lights you can ride in almost any weather and light conditions. That being said, there are times when discretion is the better part of valor -- don't ride in thunderstorms, hurricanes or blizzards. Riding when the temperatures are above 95 degrees is not a good idea either, unless you are an acclimated rider from the southwest.


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## Bryan

1. Lots of good stuff said. Most folks give advice based on years of experience. Read it, follow it, save money and live to ride another day.

2. When looking to the rear for approaching traffic, tuck your chin into your shoulder. This will prevent you from swinging out wide and into traffic. 

3. Watch the driver of a vehicle waiting to enter the roadway or turning across your lane. You can usually tell if they see you or not. A drivers body language will tell you more about what he/she is going to do than the turn signals. Ride defensively.

4. ***It may or may not be legal to pass on the right in your State, however, when passing vehicles waiting at a stop light, watch for driveways. A driver waiting in the far right lane at a traffic light will make a right turn into the drive without looking back for oncoming traffic. (Speaking from experience) ***Although many riders do this, many do not because of this danger.

5. Learn the laws of your State regarding riding a bicycle on roadways. Every State is different. Remember, just because it's "legal", doesn't mean it's safe!

6. Listen to your body. There's good pain and bad pain. Burning lungs and burning muscles from lactic acid are good pain. Sharp or dull pain in the joints or muscles is bad pain. Don't continue to ride with bad pain. Find the cause before a serious injury developes and ruins your season. It may be as simple as raising or lowering the saddle.

7. The painted white lines on the roadway can become very slick when wet. 

8. You usually ride where you are looking, and ride/run _over_ what you are looking at. When making fast descents on winding roads, look farther ahead, around the curve, than you would under normal riding conditions. And, don't look at that nail in the road and expect to avoid a flat. If you stare at it, you will run over it. (Im not sure if I explained that well enough)

9. Remember it's suppose to be fun. Keep it that way!

10. Last but certainly not least. Do not wipe sweat and snot with the same sleeve or glove hand!


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## rroselli

*Well*

why'd the rest of us even bother posting.....

"MB1 and Len J have just about said it all"


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## ScottInCincinnati

More stuff:

1. Read books (fiction and non-fiction) about cycling. Bobke II (american guy), The Yellow Jersey (english guy), The Rider (dutch guy), Love for the Ride (french guy, I think). That Lance guy has a couple of books also. Not to mention all the training bibles out there.... 

2. Watch some movies. Yeah American Flyers is cheesy, but it IS about our favorite sport (and Eddy's in it!). Breaking Away is a classic. Lots of good stuff about actual races.

3. Get an old-school bike, with downtube shifters. Better yet, go Fixed!

4. In short, immerse yourself in the sport! Obsess about it, read about it, talk about it. 

Oh yeah, what MB1 and others have said too.....

Scott


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## colker1

*road bikes are not mountain bikes*

mountain bikes should be short and small. road bikes are different animals.. don't buy smaller than the size you should ride. slightly bigger won't hurt.. while a too small road bike will make you give up road riding


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## Kvonnah

*almost all covered...*

here is just a quick one:

After riding in the rain, the best and quickest way to dry out your shoes is to stuff them with newspaper.


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## bill

pedal circles. you think you already are? you're not.


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## coonass

*29 Tips from Pros....*



francois said:


> No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.
> francois


Free download @ http://roadbikerider.com


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## Dave Hickey

#1- Not original but it's worth repeating. Don't upgrade- ride up grades......

#2- Learn basic bicycle mechanics. You should know how to change a flat, adjust your brakes and adjust your derailleurs.

#3- If you think upgrading from Shimano 105 to Dura Ace will make you faster, you are sadly mistaken....

#4- listen to MB1


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## Cory

*Think less about gear & clothes, more about riding*

I've been posting here about as long as anybody, I think, and I'm constantly surprised at the number of posts about what kind of shorts/jersey/helmet ("Can I use an MB helmet on my road bike?")/even socks you should wear, or whether it's OK to use a triple if you can't climb hills in your 39-19. At the level where the huge majority of us ride, improvement is going to come from conditioning, not from taking 100 grams off the bike or changing pedal systems. Just get on and ride, and when you reach a point that the bike is holding YOU back, instead of the other way around, you'll know it and know what to do about it.


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## orange_julius

*One for the new posters (titles of posts)*

Despite your overwhelming drive to be cute, please post using descriptive titles. 

Posting a question which title is "Do you think that .... " or "Why is it true that ... " is just annoying and non-informative. It will get a lot of hits, but not necessarily from the people who can actually answer.

Posting a question which title is something along the lines of "How to true a wheel" is much, much better.


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## Grampy

Most shifting problems can be cured by a half turn counter clock-wise on a barrel adjuster.

Check/inflate your tires before every ride and give 'em a squeeze after every ride.(Twice I've discovered a tire with low preasure and a leak by doing this, it saves you from a flat on the road sometimes.)


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## ggusta

MB1 said:


> 1) Ride lots.
> 2-10) See #1
> 
> O.K., O.K. I'll play nice.
> 
> 
> 10) See #1
> 
> A few bonuses;
> 
> *b3) Brooks saddles work.*
> b6) You can replace an innertube and be back on the bike in less than 2 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.
> b7) See #1


I was seriously considering getting rid of the bike and writing off cycling in January before I got my brooks b17 saddle. Check out wallbike.com for a 6 month return policy! Wish I had gotten the honey colored one but money is real tight.

Most of all, have lots of fun. I complain that my speed improvement is coming so slowly and people advise me to go on group rides and get dropped by faster riders.

Been there done that and the only advantage it has over being the last guy picked on your 6th grade gym class softball team is that at 40 years old, I am better equipped to deal with the humiliation. I suppose it would work, though.

Gregg


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## the flying moose

as an avid mountain biker and a new road biker the only piece of advice i can offer is be on time for your rides or you may find yourself riding alone. no one likes showing up to your place for a 9 AM ride for you to still be sleeping and your bike is in various stages of disassembly.

"dont worry i just have to put on a new rear derailleur and stop by the shop to get my wheels trued, we will be rolling in no time"

maybe its just me but i get ready the night before a ride, not 20 minutes after you were supposed to meet.

also dont make fun of the new guys. we may not have the best and most expensive gear but we do share the love of cycling and are having fun just the same as you.


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## nate

Kvonnah said:


> here is just a quick one:
> 
> After riding in the rain, the best and quickest way to dry out your shoes is to stuff them with newspaper.


Remove the insoles first. Do this after every ride. If you let your shoes dry out, they should last longer and they'll be more comfortable when you put them back on.


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## fast14riot

*Forget or break your tire levers?*

I know you shouldn't forget your tire levers but I have seen guys on mountain bikes leave there underseat bags open and then everything proceeded to bounce out and down the mountain.

So if you find yourself without tire levers and a flat tire just use you quick release levers to get the job done. If you are worried about your nice shiny black rims getting scratched you can just walk out or wait for someone who was prepared!


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## danimal1

*Signal Like You're Turning Right, Then Go Straight*

One trick I like to do is when I'm approaching a 4 way stop with a car stopped at the intersection on my right waiting to see what I'll do, I'll occasionally (if the situation fits it) signal like I'm going to make a right hand turn, then as soon as the car goes I continue to go straight through the intersection. I do this to avoid the situation of both parties stopping to figure out who has the right of way. If people see you're signaling right, they don't hesitate to go, where as if you don't signal right, they may hesitate, then you both stop. So I pull this "white lie" to get the car to clear the intersection.


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## danimal1

*Agreed*



colker1 said:


> mountain bikes should be short and small. road bikes are different animals.. don't buy smaller than the size you should ride. slightly bigger won't hurt.. while a too small road bike will make you give up road riding


Agreed, here here!


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## ebah4290

bikeboy389 said:


> When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).


Over the cranks and toward the hub  cuase you could go under and it would be the wrong way.


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## Angelracer

*Tips???*

Lets see if I can help 

1. Always bring one extra water bottle 
2. Dont look at your speed
3. always look up
4. tuck your knees and elbows, and crouch in
5. Only use brakes at intersections
6. Petal 1/2 way down hill
7. Jelly beans actually are good to eat on a ride
8. bike at least 1 hr after eating
9. if your going to ride go at least 45 minutes
10. Dont own the road, share the road, thats how I hit a camaro at nearly 40 mph...


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## denversean

I don't have 10, but...

1) In the beginning, you only need to work on doing two things well - pedaling and breathing. Before you set all kinds of crazy weightloss, time/distance goals, work on being able to pedal smoothly and breathe in unison. I can lose miles of road and weeks of work stress just focusing on the Zen that is pedaling and breathing.

2) Uphill is a state of mind. Your average NFL player would say that 90% of climbing is half mental. Seriously, embrace the hill - the climb is your friend. Glory is at the top of every climb. If you keep on riding the same hills, you'll notice they keep getting shorter with each ride.

3) Ride at your pace. You may race at some point in the future, but there is no need to start now. If someone is flying by you up the hill, concentrate on your cadence and make sure it doesn't speed up. Until you've truly gotten to know your body, you'll just burn yourself out un-necessarily while providing a bit of comic relief for those who pass you. When you start doing it to others on a consistent basis, you'll be relieved to know that you were never "that guy".

4) If you are in a ride group and have problems with your bike, look for someone with hair on their legs to help you. The individual will either be a Fred or a former MTB'er, but you'll have a much higher percentage chance of them helping you. Former MTB'ers are the best since they tend to still carry 10 lbs of tools around for the first 6 months of road riding.

5) If you are biking solely for the purpose of losing weight, you need a change of attitude. You may actually gain weight for the first few months of riding as muscle builds on your body. My best advice is to not focus on your weight at all, instead focusing on having a good time riding. Exercise is not fun, but riding is. If you truly get the bug, you'll never have to worry about weight again anyway.

6) Make friends with people who ride a lot. You might start riding with your regular friends, but you will find out over time that they are not nearly as consistent as the people you meet on the road/trail. Don't be afraid to introduce yourself to a group in the parking lot or at the trailhead. You may find yourself with a whole new circle of friends that will never flake on a ride.

7) You are not Lance Armstrong. If you are just starting out on the bike, Cytomax, Gu, and powerbars are not going to help you. It will be awhile before you need to take on food for a ride.


----------



## cannondale_boy

*remember*

1 Don't stand if you can sit and dont sit if you can lay down.
2 Always bring a patch kit,tire irons and air pump/gun.
3 Money is good, cell is better.
4 Bring more food than you think you need on 4+ hour rides.
5 Always where sunscreen, especially on road rash.
6 Have a meal ready after a long ride so you can eat as soon as you get home.
7 Pass as many people as possible!   
8 Helmets are a must.
9 Spare batteries for your MP3 player
10 The air conditioning turned on so you can sleep!


----------



## bridges

denversean said:


> 7) You are not Lance Armstrong. If you are just starting out on the bike, Cytomax, Gu, and powerbars are not going to help you. It will be awhile before you need to take on food for a ride.



A true statement. Keep in mind that "a while " is the key operator here. Riders progress at different levels. That really depends on what level you are starting. If you haven't ridden a bike since you were a child, forget energy supplements. But...if you are somewhat physically fit and have experience on a mountain bike or with running, your road biking speed and stamina will increase quickly over a short time. Once you start really pushing yourself, energy gels will help. Cytomax is good for all levels of strenuous exercise because it decreases the lactic acid buildup that causes soreness.


----------



## bridges

I know, I know no joking on this thread, but here are some etiquette tips I found that are funny as hell and have a slight amount of truth:

1._ If you pass an unaware cyclist:_ When passing another cyclist, there's a good chance she does not know you are behind her. If you say "Hi" as you go by, you may startle her, prompting her to fall off her bike (I have in fact actually caused a bike accident this way). If you ring your little bike bell, you may startle her similarly. If you ride by without saying anything, you will be thought of as inexplicably rude. What should you do? Speed up and yell "TRACK!" or "LEFT!" and blow by as impressively as possible. 

2. _If you encounter a cyclist coming from the opposite direction_: Cyclists are required by law to aknowledge one another, primarily to express solidarity and a shared love of the sport. You don't have long, but try to convey, with a simple gesture, "Hey, we're both on bikes and are therefore morally superior to the people currently in cars." But you've got to be casual about it. If you are riding in an upright position (mountain bike, cruiser), it's fine to lift your hand and wave. If you are on a road bike and have your hands on the hoods, lift the fingers of your left hand, without removing the hand from the hoods. If you are in the drops, a simple bob of the head will suffice. 

3. _If you encounter a cyclist on a recumbent bicycle_, in either direction: Spurn him. Do not aknowledge, and do not return aknowledgment if offered. Recumbent cycles are nothing more than a desperate plea for attention, and by acknowledging him, you become an enabler. Do not enable silliness, even if it works. Above all, do not express appreciation/admiration/interest in the recumbent cycle---even if you want one desperately.

4. _If you pass someone during a race: _ Do not say, "How's it going?" because the honest answer the person you're passing would have to give is, "Not as well as I previously thought." Instead, say, "Looking strong, dude," because it makes you sound generous, while at the same time implying that if your vanquished foe is looking strong, you are looking even stronger. It's all about psychology. 

5. _If you are passed during a race:_ Don't give an excuse belittling your opponent's accomplishment (e.g., "My spleen hurts." or "I'm coughing up blood"). Instead, say, "Rock on, dude." It makes you sound like a good sport, not to mention a hep cat.


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## RodeRash

This comes up a couple times in here, bears repeating -- 

Actually ensure you can change your tire and get back on the road with the tools you carry. Don't assume they're going to work. That bag under the seat is an "Emergency Kit" and needs to be maintained. 

Check tire pressure before EVERY ride. But you should also check out the whole bike before you jump on it and ride. Having the "wheels come off" at speed can get you killed. One reason road bikes are traditionally spotlessly clean is because cleaning the bike allows you to check over every little item -- cracked frames, loose nuts, frayed cables, uneven wheels/rims, brake releases in released position . . .


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## tidelag

Useful for me:

1: When I am biking when there is cold outside (around +8 degree Celsius or less),
I usually fill up a glass of water and let it be in my room before I am leaving.
More comfortably to drink water who has roomtemperature (+20 Celsius) that the
cold water right from the fridge! It helps me to drink faster too.

2: check regulary that the wheels are true. Avoids accident and breakdown out there. 
3: Check regulary that all of the screws and nuts are sitting firm. Anything can happen!

4: Use thermos bottle to keep the water warm and at stable temperature.
To drink +4 degree (ice and water) in 0 degree or less is awful.
Easier to be dehydrating in such cold weather when the water is cold.
I use 0.5 liters thermos bottles, these fit right in my bottle holder.
it is always nice with cocoa/coffee at the long trips in the winter.
Truly relaxing to drink hot coccoa after 7 hours in -7 degree Celsius! 

5: Try to NOT loose those (expensive) thermos bottle. (I usually does that.)  

6: Learn to know your own brakes. Learn to use the front brake.
Learn to know the ground and the feeling when the front wheel is slipping. 
Then you releases the brake level a little. That help's a lot. Believe me.

Locking the back wheel does not help much.
The brake effect is at maximum when the both of wheels are at the slighty locking level, but still rolling slowly as possible without slipping. 

Experience is always a good thing. Learn to hold your brakehandle correct so you can
brake effectly (I did that mistake first time, and braked weakly to avoid chrashing in a car!)

7: have fun!

8: When cycling with heavy bagage, try to have the most of it AT the bike, not at your back.
More comfortable and one can be cycling longer/faster and be less tired.
Believe me, 15kg at your back is not nice after one hours! 
if it is halfed down to 6-7kg, it would be much easier. Believe me, it is a big difference.

9: Learn to know your own body. Feel your legs. Be patient and careful if they are weak or in pain.

there! any comments?


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## M00nshine2004

*Underwear?*

Sorry if this has been answered but why should one not wear underwear under cycle shorts?


Cheers,


Steve.


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## RkFast

Ive only got one year and 2,000 miles on my bike's clock, but the one piece of advice I could give someone is the following:

NEVER listen to the yahoos who blurt out "If youre not riding for at least X hours or X miles, its not doing a thing and isnt 'worth it'."

Yeah...it would be GREAT if we had multiple hours to drop down 30-50 miles each day. But LIFE (and these days, less daylight) seem to often get in the way. If all youve got is 45 minutes to bang out 15 miles then take it, make the best of it and enjoy! Whatever your fitness level is, 45 minutes of good excercise is NEVER a bad thing, no matter what those snooty big shots tell you.


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## solorider

*Darn Right*

Lesson #1:

It is cheaper to diet than buy lightweight bike part.-- or a light bike for that matter.

Get a bike that fits, don't worry about the weight until you're fast. Otherwise you are throwing your money away.

But if a new bike catches your fancy....... well we all have a weakness.


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## solorider

*Tip that may have been over looked*

Many new riders have to deal with saddle sore.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

High end shorts won't help.

Saddles with lots of padding actually hurt you in the long run.

Seats with the hole in them are questionable.

Just ride a little bit shorter but more often and you'll find that the pain goes away.

Good luck.


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## bill105

when being overtaken by a car from behind you, never ever assume its A car, assume its AT LEAST ONE car, possibly more. if not, you sometimes have a notion to move out into the lane and another car could be there.


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## mtbbmet

1.) Buy and use chamois cream/balm when ever you ride. You will thank yourself.

2.) Take AT LEAST two tubes with you. Always. Even if you are only going out for a 1 hour recovery ride.

3.) Make eye contact with drivers. You have know idea if they know you are there, unless you make eye contact.

4.) Buy a good frame pump. Micro pumps are small and light and all, but they suck for filling up tires.

5.) Use hand signals.

6.)Always have cash, ID, and a cell phone on you.

7.) A tire at 110psi is faster, and more comfotable, than a tire at 130psi. Did I mention that it is faster?

8.) If you are going to leave your bike in a black vehicle on a hot day while you go for a post race beer, let the air out of the tires.

9.) A helmet is useless unless it fits you properly.

10.) Buy new cleats every season. It makes your pedals feel new again for little money.


----------



## motobacon

*Ist post ever: No flaming!*



mtbbmet said:


> 7.) A tire at 110psi is faster, and more comfotable, than a tire at 130psi. Did I mention that it is faster?


Thank you for all the good tips. I'm curious: I can believe the "more comfortable" but I always thought higher pressure meant less rolling resistance, and is therefore "faster."

Please explain the error in my thinking!





Thanks,
motobacon


----------



## l_pirata

*My 7 cents*

Don't overinflate the tires in an attempt to lower rolling resistance because you're guaranteed to get a flat along an imperfect road.

When approaching a hill, switch to a lower gear than is immediately necesssary; one that will be appropriate when you're in the middle of the hill so that your cadence never slows 

Bike seats should be horizontal. Period.

Raise the saddle if you are experiencing discomfort in the front of your knees. Lower the saddle if you experience pain in the back of your knees.

Make sure to exercise and stretch the hamstrings because the quads are usually overdeveloped in riders and injury can result from the imbalance.

Incorporate running into your regimen because weight-bearing exercise strengthens your bones. Alot of pro-riders don't like to walk or climb stairs because their muscles have become so specialized.

Should you win a stage race, shake the champagne vigorously and wet the podium girls; they like that...and you might get lucky.


----------



## jorgy

*The liners from your SIDI's can be washed*

Throw 'em in a lingerie bag; cold water cycle. Air dry and Voila! They'll smell good as new.


----------



## soulsurfer104

1.) cleats are dangerous on the slick concrete/tile floors in public restrooms.
2.) take one small bite of your energy bar every 15mins- eating the whole thing at once will upset your stomach.
3.) as you're riding "out," make mental notes of where water is available so that when you're riding "back," you'll know where to re-fill your bottles.
4.) learn how to bunny-hop. it's more useful than you think, and people think it's really flippin' cool to see a roadie bunny-hop over a soda bottle at 25mph.
5.) always smile and say "MORNIN'!" to people that you see, whether they are walking, jogging, or on bikes.
6.) if you are planning on getting off of your bike and going indoors, whether it is a store or a friend's house or whatever, stop and check your face in the side mirror of parked car to make sure that you don't have snot hanging off your nose or something.
7.) "cappuccino" flavor Powerbars stick to the wrapper like glue.
8.) remember that what you do will affect the public's opinions of all cyclists.
9.) people in cars cannot see cyclists. they just can't.
10.) don't forget to have fun.


----------



## Master Killer

1. Make sure the bike fits. You'll enjoy riding more and stay with the sport longer.
2. Be steady: keep your line, don't vary your speed suddenly when riding within a group, pay attention to what's happening around you.
3. Drink!
4. Cinelli cork bartape is very comfortable. 
5. I've seen more people fall down riding SPD pedals than anything else (couldn't unclip).
6. Smile, wave to people and say hi. Be courteous.
7. Learn how to draft correctly.
8. Clean the bike. It's happier and faster that way.
9. Get good tires and wheels. While Continental Grand Prix tires are not my favorite, you can't go wrong with them. Veloflex tires come off the rim very easily if you have a flat (very seldom with these tires). Velocity rims are very strong. Buy wheels suitable to your build and riding style.
10. There's a reason for helmets. Protect your noggin. You never know when you're going down.


----------



## cmatcan

_some great advice here- surprisingly, though, group-riding skills/etiquette haven't really been touched on yet, so allow me:_

-If you're relatively new to group riding, stay on the left side of the back, away from the curb. You'll stay more clear of pot-holes, dips in the pavement and debris, and you won't feel trapped between other riders and the curb. 
-Don't overlap wheels when drafting. Keep your tire a bit to the left or right of the rider in front of you, but with your wheel 2 or 3 inches behind that rider's tire as well
-If you're leading a pack on a descent, DO NOT use more brake than absolutely necessary.
-Keep your upper body loose and relaxed- if you're squeezing the life outta your bars with tension, youre not able to pull off quick direction-changes
-Point out pot holes, garbage, w/e, when in a pack. This is not so much a courtesy as a necessity when those behind you can't see the road. 
-Don't freak out when other riders bump into you lightly while riding, this is normal. Some more experienced riders may literally "push" you on a tough climb. accept the help gratefully. 

*some other stuff:* for the totally clueless noob, take your visor off your helmet if it's a mtb helmet. All it will give you is a back neck-ache from having to crane your neck to increase your field of vision. If you're trying to save money, do it on the jersey or the helmet, not the shorts. Camelbak's are for mountain bikes.


----------



## Sprocket - Matt

*I haven't seen this listed yet... What about your LBS?*

This might have been listed, but I didn't see it....

Unless you are a master mechanic, develop a good relationship with your Local Bike Shop.
But at the same time, don't use them to change a flat for you, they are pros and doing simple things like fixing flats is just wasting their time. When you need a great mechanic it will be worth all the extra 10 minutes of gabbing with them on a weekly or monthly basis. TRUST ME.


----------



## stewardmike03

*It surprises me...*

...nobody said it's always a good idea to keep a presta/schraeder adapter with them. Here's the scoop. I keep a mini-pump...say what you will...which works well in getting the tube pretty much inflated. When I reach the first gas station I use the adapter and fill the tire as needed. Most of the time I am close...within 20psi always. It works for me...but then I AM one of those ex-MTB'ers that carry 10 pounds of tools.


----------



## lawrence

*Mark chain when cleaning or lubing*

When cleaning and lubing my chain, I have one link that I've market on the side with a black magic marker as my starting and ending point.


----------



## txgal

When putting on tires, line up the label with the stem. That way when you get a flat and find the hole in the tube you know where to look on or in the tire to see if there is a rip or even glass still in the tire.


----------



## cka1971

Someone posted:

9 Spare batteries for your MP3 player

Should you really ride with a iPod? I haven't even bought my bike yet (still in the "am I really going to use it enough to justify a mortgage payment" phase), but is seems like common sense that you will want to be able to hear things around you. I wear the iPod while i run, but I also run on sidewalks or jogging paths, and need not worry about that idiot in the Excursion with the cell phone tucked under their chin reaching around to smack the misbahving youngster or dog.


----------



## JayTee

*Sorry, Gotta Disagree with This one!*



solorider said:


> Many new riders have to deal with saddle sore.
> 
> A couple of things to keep in mind:
> 
> High end shorts won't help.
> 
> Seats with the hole in them are questionable.
> 
> Good luck.



I beg to differ. Shorts quality DOES matter, and a lot. Sadly, quality is proportionate to cost. Cheap shorts with funky seams can absolutely lead to misery.

And at least for women, "seats with the hole in them" dominate the lion's share of the serious recreational roadie market and with good reason... a little relief for soft tissue. Next time you are with an experienced group of women riders, count the number of Terry saddles... I'm just saying...


----------



## Primetime_75

Ipods are great for the bike path solo ride.
The key to using it, is low volume.


----------



## kreger

*my 2 cents*

1- slow and ask everyone on the side of the road with a mechanical if they have everything they need. not everyone is a former mountain biker.

2- commute to work by bike, its great. 

3- read this whole thread.

4- bike trainers can work as poor-mans work stands.

5- ive found its very beneficial to ride with someone faster than you and someone slower than you. do it separately. pass on the knowledge. 

6- carry id yes, but also carry a bank card and health insurance info, esp if youve an conditions or allergies. 

7- throw your energy wrappers on the side of the road/trail and i will hunt you down and give them back to you in a VERY pissed off manner.

8- if you ride with an ipod do so responsibly. i cut off one earbud and rewired both channels into the remaining side, i wear it on the non road side, low volume with the inline remote. tool is some of the better riding music.

9- turn your lights on before you need to. from personal experience you will get alot better settlement from insurance companies if you had you lights on when you were hit, you were doing your part to be seen. 

10- dont listen to me. ride, spring is here and its nice, get out and ride


----------



## Paul LI

purplepaul said:


> The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.



Hey Paul, I've had the same problem (but was never diagnosed correctly); what's your stretch routine like for your inner thigh (or whatever stretches help the knee alignment problem)?

Much thanks!

paul


----------



## BenWA

*Good advice, I'll add a few more.*



cmatcan said:


> _some great advice here- surprisingly, though, group-riding skills/etiquette haven't really been touched on yet, so allow me:_
> 
> -If you're relatively new to group riding, stay on the left side of the back, away from the curb. You'll stay more clear of pot-holes, dips in the pavement and debris, and you won't feel trapped between other riders and the curb.
> -Don't overlap wheels when drafting. Keep your tire a bit to the left or right of the rider in front of you, but with your wheel 2 or 3 inches behind that rider's tire as well
> -If you're leading a pack on a descent, DO NOT use more brake than absolutely necessary.
> -Keep your upper body loose and relaxed- if you're squeezing the life outta your bars with tension, youre not able to pull off quick direction-changes
> -Point out pot holes, garbage, w/e, when in a pack. This is not so much a courtesy as a necessity when those behind you can't see the road.
> -Don't freak out when other riders bump into you lightly while riding, this is normal. Some more experienced riders may literally "push" you on a tough climb. accept the help gratefully.


-If riding in a pack with riders next to you on either side, it's safest to have your bars immediately adjacent to either their bars or their hips. As the above post said, don't worry about knocking bars, elbows, or hips with your neighbor. 

-Avoid using brakes when in a paceline/pack at all. If you need to slow down, sit up taller, or move out to the side slightly and allow the airstream to slow you down.

-Pass along any messages you receive from the front to the guy behind you. For instance, if someone up front shouts "pothole", pass the message along by shouting "pothole" to the riders behind you. Same thing goes for pointing at hazards.

-If you need to spit in a paceline/pack, spit down between your arm and your thigh, NOT out to the side.

-Learn to remove and replace your water bottle from/to its cage by feel without looking down.

-When it's your turn to pull at the front of a paceline, don't suddenly speed up so that your riders can't hang on. Maintain the pace that the line had before you started pulling (unless, of couse, you are in a race and you want to make an attack straight off the front). You can _gradually_ increase your speed when pulling if the line wants to pick up the pace.

-Pull for a minimum of 10 seconds, but don't pull for longer than you feel you are capable of sustaining.

-At the front, you are the eyes of the paceline. Warn riders behind you of hazards by calling out the hazard and pointing to it (pothole, gravel, storm drain, etc). Also call out and sudden slows, stops, and turns.

-When you are done with your pull, look back over your shoulder to make sure nobody is gonna be in your way when you peel off to the side. Peel off when it's clear. If necessary, you can give a "wave" or a flick with your elbow to signal the rider behind you to pass or take over.

-When you are at the back, call out "car back" when a car is approaching from behind. Also, when the next rider peels of the front and joins the back, tell him "last rider" or just "last" to let him know that he needs to get on your wheel.

-The back of the paceline requires the second most amount of work, after the front. It's easy for a newb to fall off the back if he's not on the ball. Stick close to the guy in front of you and stay on point.


----------



## bill

> -The back of the paceline requires the second most amount of work, after the front. It's easy for a newb to fall off the back if he's not on the ball. Stick close to the guy in front of you and stay on point.


I thought second wheel was the next hardest, and so forth and so on, until about tenth/twelfth wheel, after which it was pretty much consistent.


----------



## BenWA

bill said:


> I thought second wheel was the next hardest, and so forth and so on, until about tenth/twelfth wheel, after which it was pretty much consistent.


You are right that there is a decrease in drag with each successive rider from the front, but the last rider has it worse than even the second rider because a) he is the only rider of the line subject to the backdraw turbulence that tends to "suck" the rider off the back (this is an oversimplification of the aerodynamic forces at work)...he essentially inherits the disrupted airflow/wake eddies of the entire paceline, and b) because he feels slinky effect around corners the most and generally has to work the hardest to reel himself back in to the rest of the group during any slinkying.


----------



## BenWA

MB1 said:


> 3) It is not the bike, it is the legs.
> 
> 4) It is not the legs, it is the lungs.


The proceeding statement is true: the preceeding statement was false.


----------



## cocokeelers

because it can get caught in your spokes


----------



## cocokeelers

*Undies*

Because it has been known to get stuck in your spokes. i love the freedom cycling naked can give


----------



## cocokeelers

*You da (wo) man!*



jtolleson said:


> I beg to differ. Shorts quality DOES matter, and a lot. Sadly, quality is proportionate to cost. Cheap shorts with funky seams can absolutely lead to misery.
> 
> And at least for women, "seats with the hole in them" dominate the lion's share of the serious recreational roadie market and with good reason... a little relief for soft tissue. Next time you are with an experienced group of women riders, count the number of Terry saddles... I'm just saying...


right on girlfriend!!


----------



## WrongBikeFred

I'm supprised MB1 hasen't said this yet. COMMUTE!!!. This does not have to be to work, or atleast not at first. You just need to use your bike for transportation as well as for fun at least a couple of times per week. Ride to work, visit friends, run errands or visit your LBS (Locan Bike Shop). It teaches you to ride in all conditions and to be much more aware of your surroundings, both on and off the bike. It also makes you a much better driver.


----------



## Porcupines93

*Just a few more from a beginner*

1. Get a good floor pump
2. Inflate your tires to the right pressure before each ride (or learn how to repair pinch flats real well)
3. Get a saddle bag for the necessities
4. Shirts with pockets are great for phones, energy bars, keys, etc.
5. Better to overdress and remove clothes
6. A hat or headband will keep your ears warm on cold days
7. Ditto for shoe covers and your toes
8. Pretend you are scraping something off the sole of your shoe on the up stroke
9. Steady beats surging 
10. Use your legs as shocks on bumpy roads


----------



## jlfbogey

Cycling shorts are like swim trunks---designed to be all inclusive and self-sufficient. They have a nice chamois (that strange looking pad covering your nether regions that makes you look like your shorts are full of sh*t when you walk around in public wearing them) that is meant to cushion, ventilate, and directly comfort those nether regions, possibly aided by a nice skin lubricant like Body Glide or Chamois Creme (various brands). Wearing underwear inside your shorts separates you from the chamois negating its function, and allows for the additonal to bunch up in tight spots and actually cause mroe saddle sores or blisters. Cotton underwear in particular is a problem as it holds moisture and causes chafing and possible jock itch to set in. Bike shorts are designed to both comfort and breath simultaneously, and wearing underwear underneath them blocks both effects. Don't worry, you will get used to the feeling after only a few rides and will quickly figure out that we are right and why.


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## SeanH

*My $.02*

What a great thread -- thanks!

My biggest thing (and I'm certainly still a newbie) is to embrace riding consistently, even if it's only a short ride. I'm now riding every day conditions permit. When I'm riding regularly, I want to ride more. When I get out of the habit, getting back in is so much harder.

And, I learned some stuff...

1) No more underwear beneath my cycling shorts. Finally, I get it!!!! Going to buy a second pair today.

2) I found a way to control new bike lust and carbon-fiber-itis; can't buy a new one until the one-year anniversary of my Giant OCR3.

3) Need to stash a 20 in the seat bag.


----------



## asciibaron

1. replace your bar tape every season
2. clean your break pads (the slots and grooves add traction)
3. learn to full rotation pedal - not just on the downstroke
4. push down on your front wheel when making sharp, fast turns - keeps wheel on ground if there are bumps
5. stay off the bike trails - too many kids, lids, and space cadets on roller blades
6. never listen to music while riding
7. always wear a helmet - and wear it correctly
8. learn how to fall - practice in the grass
9. learn how to pedal through turns
10. respect your bike - it puts up with a ton of crap from you


----------



## pedalsquares

*Neodymium Magnets and Latex Gloves*

1.) *Neodymium Magnets* - If your cycle computer occasionally skips a beat (particularly at higher speeds), and you've already adjusted it as well as you can, you can give the sensor a boost by popping a neodymium magnet onto the wheel magnet. The total magnetic strength is the old + the new magnets. You don't need to glue it or anything - the neodymium magnets are strong enough that they're highly unlikely to fall off. I've had the same one for 1500 miles so far.

2.) *Latex Gloves* - when working on your bike, it's a lot easier to put on a pair of latex gloves than it is to scrape the grease and road grime out of your fingerprints.


----------



## serpico7

pedalsquares said:


> 2.) *Latex Gloves* - when working on your bike, it's a lot easier to put on a pair of latex gloves than it is to scrape the grease and road grime out of your fingerprints.


Put a little baby powder in the gloves - makes taking them off a lot quicker/easier. If you get grease on your hands, use automotive hand cleaner, which works much better than soap (needless to say, it will be much cheaper than any bike-specific product designed to do the same thing).


----------



## Waxbytes

Only one-

You are going to fall, don't be afraid of it.


----------



## wilier

1) buy clipless pedals
2) buy bib shorts
3) always wear a base layer
4) don't attack early
5) join a team so you don't have to pay full price for clothes
6) climb in the saddle
7) thoroughly clean the chain before installation
8) always have cash
9) panic makes you crash - learn to be calm when a crash happens in front of you
10) say hello to everyone - bikes, runners, walkers, even cars included


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## sekaijin

*What is a Fred?*



denversean said:


> 4) If you are in a ride group and have problems with your bike, look for someone with hair on their legs to help you. The individual will either be a Fred or a former MTB'er, but you'll have a much higher percentage chance of them helping you. Former MTB'ers are the best since they tend to still carry 10 lbs of tools around for the first 6 months of road riding.


What is a Fred? (MTB'er I figured out)


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## 867-5309

*Few more tips from this season*

1) You will be passed by people far better than you
2) You can try to catch them.
3) You are not allowed to sprint past them 30 feet from the end of your ride as they continue on. Slow down, hang off their wheel for 10-20 seconds, and let them continue. 
4) If you want to pass someone, they may wake up and/or wheel suck and pass you back.
5) Do not sprint in the MUT lane. There are dogs on flexi leashes and joggers. Share the road.
6) When approaching double parked cars, decrease your speed, stop if you have to, and let all the traffic go by till you have a clear lane. It is slower, but a hell of a lot safer.
7) Wear as much reflective gear as possible at night. Reflective tape is a gift from God.
8) Never count on a car slowing down for you.
9) Vans are twice as dangerous as anything out there.
10) Always have the following: Gloves, helmet, and bar plugs.


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## seany916

M00nshine2004 said:


> Sorry if this has been answered but why should one not wear underwear under cycle shorts?
> 
> Even more than was already mentioned, the edge of the underwear tends to offer friction and abrasion just outside your sitbones when you sit up on a saddle that is not a small, lightweight road saddle. It's okay for 3 hours or so, but then you begin to chafe. This is without bike shorts over.
> 
> Wear bike shorts only without any thing under. I do ocassionally wear bike shorts under long shorts when riding with non-spandex people. It seems to make them uncomfortable, although the women don't seem to mind so much.
> 
> 
> 3. If you encounter a cyclist on a recumbent bicycle, in either direction: Spurn him. Do not aknowledge, and do not return aknowledgment if offered. Recumbent cycles are nothing more than a desperate plea for attention, and by acknowledging him, you become an enabler. Do not enable silliness, even if it works. Above all, do not express appreciation/admiration/interest in the recumbent cycle---even if you want one desperately.
> 
> They may want attention, but they're also usually quite friendly. Not too big a fan of how they often won't shut up about their bikes and how they're so comfortable and superior.
> 
> Gee, like sitting on your most delicate region on a hard, tiny perch with a 4" drop to your drop bars wouldn't be comfortable for hours at a time.
> 
> Although I love riding with my bars low, I feel an urgent need to urinate when they drop below 3". Got tired of cleaning the sticky, smelly stuff off of my BB and chainstays when I rode that way.


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## hell0.com

Although it's a good skill to be able to get your waterbottle without looking, don't blindly flail your hands around down there either. My first time out riding, I tried getting my bottle without looking and felt something hit my finger tips. I looked down and realized that what I had felt was my fingers glacing off the spokes of my spinning front wheel. It still scares me to think about what could have happened if my fingers got stuck in them.


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## justsomeguy3116

francois said:


> C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.
> 
> You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.
> 
> No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.
> 
> francois


1. BUY A GOOD SEAT! Pay attention to numbness in your favorite friend down there. Noone seems to tell new riders, but a good seat solves many problems. My first bike had a crappy seat (for me) and I had to note my "issue" before any more experienced rider even told me it could be an issue! SEAT!!!!!!!

2. Concentrate on volume over distance when you start. Don't worry about how far you go, plans your trip by long and short rides each week by TIME (one long and two short to start).

3. Don't get overly worried about what bike you have, buy the low end in a good brand (i.e. Lemond Etape) and consider a geometry that is less agressive (i.e. Lemond).

4. Get a triple crank! Don't worry that your racing buddy has double, get the triple and survive the hills the first summer.


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## DavidsonDuke

*A couple*

1) Assos Chamois Creme--cured me of saddle sores--best stuff ever.
2) Bib shorts--much more comfy around the mid-section than standard shorts
3) People find different saddles comfortable--for me (not a woman), the Terry cutout is a godsend. No more numbness for me.


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## hell

Didn't see it mentioned in the previous posts, so I'll just throw it in here:

When oiling your chain after cleaning it, oil it one link at a time, on the BOTTOM row of chain. What I mean by bottom is, if the bike is standing upright normally (seat on top), oil the length of chain that is running from the rear derailleur jockey wheel to the underside of the front chainring. You do this because if you lube the chain on the top run, the oil on the links will drip and run down your chainring and cogs, getting them oily.

When I started out, I mistakenly oiled my chain, and then lightly oiled my chainrings and cogs as well, figuring they needed it to prevent wear. The oil on the chain's rollers is enough to prevent wear, the bit of oil I was dripping on the chainrings/cogs was just attracting dirt and crud. I still sometimes get a bit of oil on the chainrings/cogs, but I wipe it around and off of them. This leaves a very thin film on them, which helps prevent corrosion from moisture, but doesn't really attract dirt.


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## lawrence

*ID using luggage tag*

On my saddle wedge bag I have a plastic luggage tag with my name, phone #, address, and two emergency phone #'s, and the words not allergic to anything typed on a luggage tag in case I get in an accident an I am incoherent.


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## MTBeers

#1 - Inflate your tires before EVERY ride. 

#2 - Carbs are good... that includes beer.


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## kreger

wouldnt that better read: 

beer is good, it includes carbs?


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## alexb618

when you come off the front of a paceline dont slow down so much that the sucker behind you needs to grab a brake - do this every time around and people will not want to ride near you any more


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## balzaccom

1. Drink water before you leave. 

2. Take water with you.

3. Don't underestimate your need for water and food on the road. I need about a liter of water and a snack every hour. 

4. Keep your tires pumped up. I don't do this every ride...but I do ride every day, just about. And I pump up the tires every other day or so. I always feel sorry for the sad people who are riding on low tires, working twice as hard. 

5. At least once a week, focus on technique, not miles. Or afew minutes, ride with only one leg, get your spin smooth. It won't take long for that to really make a difference in your rides. 

6. Once every week or two, go on an adventure ride--somewhere you haven't been. Take some money, stop in a deli...make it a one day cycling vacation. Have fun. 

7. Ride with nice people, or ride alone. 

8. Get a speedometer/odometer. It's lots of fun to see that you are getting faster, going farther...what? Type A? ME? 

9. Ride lots. 

10. There don't have to be ten rules. 

PW


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## pixelgrunt

I've been riding seriously for a decade, worked in a LBS for 5 years, etc., but I still picked up some good tips from this thread. I wanted to pass along 2 tips of mine.

*Ride on the road like you are invisible. *

What that means is: don't expect anyone in a vehicle to see you. You may feel entitled to some courteous behavior out there, but the loser in the SUV with blackened windows talking on the cell may not even slow down as they run over you and your bike. 

Or run you off the road. 

Or run a stop sign or stop light. 

The consequences of vehicle/cyclist collisions FAR outweigh the benefits of not slowing down or stopping completely for a stop sign.

Also, it's a good idea to *learn to ride rollers.* They help immensely with riding a straight line smoothly, which is very important on roads with small shoulders.

Everyone else summed up most things I know about cycling. 

Have fun and ride often.

:thumbsup:


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## chilif1

Don't get a roof rack especially if you have a SUV. If you do get one don't forget about your bike and watch of for low clearances(parking garages, fast food locations, etc.). Sounds dumb but I have seen a couple of bike frames destroyed this way.


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## Kung Fu Felice

1. If debating between two component parts, always err on the side of comfort over lightweight/speed;
2. When cutting costs to fit a budget, do not skimp on the saddle;
3. If the Brooks saddle is too hard and you don't have the patience, try a Selle Anatomica saddle - same leather suspension concept, but already broken in;
4. Because a comfortable bike makes you go faster longer, spend more money on fit than frame material or component choices;
5. Just because something is lighter does not mean it's better;
6. Before deciding that a saddle is uncomfortable, ride on it for at least 50 miles;
7. For your first bike, it doesn't matter if it's aluminum, steel or carbon - really, it doesn't matter, but save up for a custom bike next;
8. Ditch the shorts, get a bib;
9. Don't feel defensive if you want to upgrade your bike - it's a hobby, and upgrading is part of the fun. However, don't expect to go faster just because you upgraded. Ultimately, paying more for expensive upgrades tend to be more aesthetic than functional. ie/ Is the guy on the Record group really going faster than the guy on the Dura Ace?
10. Don't be ashamed of making your bike beautiful! Make this bike something you can be proud of, and make it "bling" to your heart's content.


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## bill

I have paid to be professionally fit. I also have fit myself by trial and error. my conclusion is that, within a couple mm (cm?) here or there, you can get used to almost anything.


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## Sojourneyman

I haven't been cycling long enough for 10 tips, but I did learn this: clip in while pedaling naturally, if you try and push down you can slip and hurt your gender-specifics.


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## akatsuki

I have some although not 10, even being relatively new:

1. Every single child you see is just waiting to spring out in front of you somehow and get killed. And their parents, who are right there, don't really care that their kid is going to jump out into a road.
2. Same for every dog, squirrel, and random other rodent.
3. Watch out for the casual cyclist who is getting started from a stop, they will typically make an S-shape on the road going to the side as they get started and swerve into your path because they didn't watch Sheldon Brown's video.
4. Kids on BMX-style bikes will make U-turns whenever it is most likely to get you or them killed (same as #1)
5. If you are buying a bike from an LBS, have them put an adjustable stem on there for the first couple of weeks or so. You can start out upright and slowly lower it as you gain the proper flexibility and musculature. Then have them give you the permanent, correct stem that you paid for.
6. Join a local bike club, not for free stuff, but to meet people who know more than you. Don't ask for the "bro" deal.


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## TrekJeff

When going on a vacation and the bikes are on the vehice be sure to make a list of things not to forget

Helmet
Shoes
Gloves
Ect....

I have a list of all my biking needs equipment that get's laid out. Then it all goes into one bag. That way I know where it all is once I get to where I'm going, and I know it's all in one spot.


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## lawrence

I keep lists.

I have on my computer all the things I need to take on vacation, another list everything I need for a business trip, another list for an overnight trip.

I also have several bags with equipment for different sports.

I keep all biking clothes either in one draw, winter and summer gear, or in one spot of the bedroom floor. I keep my biking sunglasses and bike gloves in my helmet so I don't forget them with a ride map/cue sheet if I need one. I keep 1 1/2 frozen bottles of water in the freezer with an energy bar separating them so I don't forget that.

I keep my ride log on a shelf next to the bike so I don't forget to log it when I return with a roll of paper towels to wipe down my chain after each ride and a bottle of chain lube on the shelf next to my bike log.

Nothing lets me forget anything.


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## jetdog9

chilif1 said:


> Don't get a roof rack especially if you have a SUV. If you do get one don't forget about your bike and watch of for low clearances(parking garages, fast food locations, etc.). Sounds dumb but I have seen a couple of bike frames destroyed this way.


If you do use a roof rack, put something like a garbage can or step stool in the way in your garage so when you get home and you're mentally not there because of the ride, you have a reminder that your bike is on top of your car.


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## tomacita

*takes one to know one...*

I am new so I'm lacking the insight of some of the veterans but my advice is prudent.

1. If you're new to road cycling and your riding a used bike, a bike bought from an internet site or from a less than profession bike shop-- MAKE SURE YOUR RIDE IS SET UP FOR YOU! For $85, costly but worth it, I went to my LBS who carries SPECIALIZED and the owner is a BODY GEOMETRY FIT TECHNICIAN, and got my old bike professionally fitted. HUGE adjustments were made and my power and endurance, comfort and ultimate happiness has grown exponentially. If you don't want to drop the dough on the fit, search on the internet for how to set up your bike to your body. Start with the seat then worry about the handlebars. 

2. Pedal with a faster cadence if you want to last longer... Don't pedal so fast that your wild and out of control but quicker is better than slower. When pedaling with a slow cadence you have to push harder with your legs using much more muscle power than necessary. Lactic acid will build up and you will wear out faster and get much more sore. Pedaling faster will not wear out your muscles as badly and will activate your cardio system more- ultimately increasing your stamina.

I'm hope I'm not the new jackass with a "great idea" not worth accepting. I'm just speaking from experience. Well, actually inexperience. Which may(?) qualify my opinion in certain regards.


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## Mega Cycle

Truly fantastic thread! Thanks everyone.

...but I can't believe there were actually people out there wearing underwear under their cycle shorts!!


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## lagunacat

*Some safety tips*

Slop on the sun screen. Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the US. I use SPF 50

Carry some Benadryl. You never know when you might get some bee venom that doesn't agree with you or if you know your allergic to bee stings carry an EpiPen. I carry both. If you get stung and you start getting hives and itchy palms then it is time to take action.

If stinger is still in you scrape it off with something like a credit card. I unscrew my bottle cap and use the cap edge.

When flying downhill zip your shirt up all the way (or totally unzip). A bee is more likely to sting you when getting caught in your shirt. Yes, I get stung a lot!

Bunny hopping is a wonderful talent to know.

Don't be afraid to stop and clean up broken glass. It can save another rider a flat or even yourself the next time you pass the same area. I'll even stop and remove a car hazard (like a huge boulder that just rolled off the hill). Karma is a good thing to have if your a road cyclist.

When a bus or tractor trailer is trying to get by you on tight twisty corners then slow to a crawl or stop, they can't pass you safely if your both going the same speed (it is a difficult task for them as they need to stay in their lane to avoid any on coming traffic).

For you country riders;
Know where the deer crossings are (especially on the downhills) cause you don't want to hit a deer at 30 mph or plus.:cryin: 
Never try to out run a mountain lion because they'll think your prey.


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## TrekJeff

lagunacat said:


> Never try to out run a mountain lion because they'll think your prey.


Or just go faster than the other guy:thumbsup:


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## Blue Sugar

1. When checking behind for traffic look over your RIGHT shoulder, you need to turn your head less that way.

2. Store your water bottles in the fridge after cleaning them. 

3. When checking to see if a car is moving, look at the WHEELS.

4. Never assume someone sees you unless you make EYE CONTACT.

5. Never keep anything sharp such as keys, tools, tire levers, ot tubes (with sharp stems) in your jersey pockets.

6. When climbing a hill, save something for the top.

7. Always warm up on group rides. Let the other guys kill themselves at the front for the first 20 minutes, and you'll be stronger and faster at the end of the ride. 

8. Never wear bib short straps outside your jersey. 

9. Don't wear sunglasses on cloudy days or at night. 

10. Don't wear your helmet like a yarmulke.


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## coonass

http://roadbikerider.com/ has a free download of 29 tips from the pros.....and also a list of tips from other riders.

I don't know if this was mentioned in the previous replies, but make a habit of not riding on top of the hoods when making a fast descent...it doesn't take much of a small pothole (rock, etc.) to bounce your hands off of the hoods..
http://www.parktool.com/ is also a good site for learning some at-home maintenance.


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## lawrence

Do you want to ride more mileage? If you want to become a better rider you need to ride more.

One of doing this is to if you ride club rides, ride to the ride. I ride to almost all my club rides. I've ridden to some rides that are 18 miles away. This puts me at 36 miles plus the ride distance. If you can ride to a club ride that's only 5-7 miles away, then that's wonderful. When the ride is further away and I don't think I can ride there and back AND do the entire club ride, I do part of the club ride. This of course is easier if you know the area. Talk to the ride leader ahead of time or before the ride and tell them that you aren't going to do the whole ride with them. I've done this on rides that are 40-60 miles, I ride 10-20 miles with them and then turn around and ride home again. So I'm putting on 20-40 miles plus the commuting distance. And now since I can ride 60-80 miles rather easy, I usually ride all or most of the ride with them, especially if the ride is closer than 18 miles away. I have several rides that I ride to regularly, 4 miles, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 18 miles away. This has helped me to become a much better rider this year. Last year my longest ride was 40 miles and I did that only twice in July, August I did do 73 miles. Most of my rides were 30 miles or less with a few 35 miles. This year I ride 40-60 miles 4-6 days a week and I credit that mileage to riding to the rides. 

I got this idea from some other people that ride to the rides. This year there were a few others that started riding to the ride because of my doing it and my inspiration.

And if the ride is during the week and I know it's going to get dark on the way home, I talk to people, or talk to the ride leader, and see who is going in my direction with their car and I get a ride back with them. It usually works out. If not, I have a blinking red light for my saddle bag. Some people drop me off just a few blocks from my house and I ride the rest of the way home only because I want to make it easier for them.


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## Andrea138

Group rides can be your best friend or your worst nightmare. They can make you stronger if you have a hard time getting motivated on solo rides, and they can get you used to riding in close quarters, but if you do the "parking lot race" group ride every time you go out, you'll get overtrained. Mix in some solo rides or some less-intense group rides to take a break. 

Like Friel says- they have their place, but use them sparingly.


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## Andrea138

oops- double post


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## uber-stupid

*LBS etiquette (or any other hobby shop, for that matter)*

Having worked in an LBS (as well as a woodworking supply store) I know that there is such a thing as good service, and bad service. And while I don't want to make excuses for bad service, workplaces all have their stresses, and I feel compelled to point out the following things:

-Just because you've just read everything in these forums, doesn't mean you're more knowledgeable than the guy behind the counter, or standing at the bike stand. These guys get paid... well, almost enough... for their services, and they deal with seriously fussy people all day long. And for many people, it's enough to deal with their job at work, they don't come home and geek out. Some of them do, and it's great, but not all of them. The forums, on the other hand, are populated with everyone from 16 year old punks to middle aged mechanical engineers, and there's a lot of information here. It's a highly specialized information resource, populated with people who are addicted to information. But that doesn't make the guy who fixes flats and brakes all day long is an ignorant idiot. Just because you have some miraculous bit of hyper-specialized information does NOT make you better or smarter than they are. It just means you've read something that they haven't.

-It's hard to explain to people who are on the other side of the counter sometimes, but the truth is that some of the most difficult customers are the ones who are really convinced that they know more than the LBS guys. There's nothing more dangerous than having a little information. Maybe you have a detail, or a piece of information that they don't, but other times you'll have a problem that is everyday for them, that they can handle with their eyes closed, that you've never seen or really had to think about. 

I watched one bicycle owner rip a mechanic a new one because the bike wasn't working properly, and he was convinced that it was the shop's fault. Turns out he'd turned the barrel adjusters the wrong way on a ride, and when it didn't work, he kept turning them that wrong way, making things worse. A bicycle is a remarkably simple machine. And so is basic human error. There's nothing wrong with making a stupid mistake. There's a lot wrong with treating people like dirt over your own mistakes. If something isn't working, accept it, go in, and see if they can explain why. Don't go in with a bike in one hand, and blame in the other.


-The eye-contact thing works on the road, not in the store. Trust me, they saw you. On a busy Saturday afternoon in June, they're probably trying to avoid eye contact. If it's too busy, and you have a real question, come back when they have time. At that particular moment, they are probably already trying to service a high strung high spender, a wild eyed mother of 2, who are both there and need flat tires fixed, some random cranky guy who doesn't understand the two different sides of his bicycle pump nozzle, and 3 detailed phone calls. 

And while it sounds really impersonal to say so, they already have steam coming out of their ears, and the last thing that they probably want is one more person to bother them. 

I'll add the caveat that sometimes, it's bad service. But there's a difference between crazy busy, and jerk-off attitude. Bad attitudes are easy to spot. But so is crazy busy. Any other day, if it's not busy, they'll make eye contact, and be relaxed enough to give a really thoughtful answer to your questions. 

Everyone has needs, and that's entirely understandable. All I'm trying to say is, if they're clearly in the middle of something, wait your turn. Wait until you see them looking around, and then get their attention. And try not to take it personally if you're one of a dozen people in their face at that particular moment, and they're trying to keep things moving.


-Once in a while, go in and buy an innertube, or a couple of power bars, or whatever. Generally, the shops are full of nice people, with good attitudes, but they still have a bottom line. But it's still a business relationship. Everyone knows the internet is cheaper for a lot of things. But Brick and Mortar stores run on money, and things like inner tubes are their bread and butter. Sure it costs a little more. But it's worth it to have a good LBS nearby. And it's definitely worth it to have a good relationship with them, and demonstrate your willingness to make sure that they're making money. If you really want to stand out, buy your stuff during the week, and strike up a conversation about something. 

-Try not to come in at 5 minutes to close with a seriously involved problem. It happens, people are human, "Hey, I think we can just make it..." and traffic can slow people down. And I know, and I'm very well aware, that if the customer can get through the door, they have a right to service. The customer is always right. But chances are it's already been a long day for them, and they'd really rather be on their way home... or out riding. This falls partly under the guideline of being prepared the day before a ride. If you have serious shifting issues, and a race the next day, it's really not cool to walk in as they're ready to go home, and dump a pile of work on them with a right now deadline. If they're inordinately nice people, they might help you. But they'll also remember you. 

-I don't want to make this a "You stupid f!cking customers!" rant. And I think if there's an undercurrent to all of this, it's this simple fact: You're here, online, for recreational purposes. They're at work because they have bills to pay, and I can promise you that inevitably, there are going to be difficult customers for them to deal with that day. The above stuff is a pile of some of my own baggage, and my personal rants. Try not to take any of them as personal insults... take them as an insight into the life of a retail clerk. We love our regular customers that understand that we have a job, and we have lives. And many of us love to hang out and talk shop, discuss bike issues, and be friendly... when we don't have a gang of savages hounding us around the store with flat tires and brain damage. Days like that, the closest thing we get to a break is to shoot a greased rubber band at one of the other mechanics when they're not looking. 


-If you want to get in their good graces... Towards the end of the day, if you're a guy, bring in a 6 pack of good beer. If you're a girl, beer works, and so do cookies. Trust me, they'll appreciate it. 

If you want to have a friend at an LBS, (and if you're a newbie, trust me, you want a friend at an LBS) then be a friend. You wouldn't bother your best friend at his job when it's busy, try not to do the same to these poor guys. Stop by on Thursday afternoon, when there's no one else in the store, with a 6 pack of beer, explain to them that you're having a hard time with your bike, and that clearly these bottles are part of the problem. Beer is a complicated problem, requiring time, patience, and thorough consideration, and I'm sure they'll be willing to think it through, and talk shop with you.


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## alexb618

the day my clients bring me cookies and beer is the day i will go back to shopping at my LBS


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## treko

Blue Sugar said:


> 2. Store your water bottles in the fridge after cleaning them.


WTX? I've been trying to figure out why some bottles have a stinky chemical smell after I clean them. Does the cool temperature inhibit the release of nasty petro-toxins? There's all this talk about evil water bottles and I'm not sure what to do. I'm definitely not going back to the aluminum Sigg bottles I used 30 years ago!


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## treko

Yeah, but where's the advice for the LBS clerk? Tell me you're busy and stressed (even if the shop is empty) and I'll understand. Tell me that you can't afford the time to dick around with my stupid problem and I'll understand. Tell me that you're just sick of customers and I'll understand. But, when I come in ready to plunk down $2k for a bike, don't just avoid eye contact, because I don't understand.


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## trekkie7

The guys at my shop are awesome, and I hold them in high esteem. Like a good NCO in the Army, they squared me, the "newbie" away. They were courteous and fun. I went in there the first time with a teachable attitude and have found every bike experience since then enjoyable. These guys even helped me name my bike! To me they're bike gods. They walk on water, and will keep me squared away! I can ask them the most lame-brained question, and they're patient, yet eager to educate me in the ways of the cycle. I want you to know that there are customers out there that do appreciate the expertise at the LBS. I know a lot of stuff about a lot of things, but bikes aren't one of them. I depend on my LBS. I'm taking them an f in' keg! Thanks for the suggestion!


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## massacgr

*Notes about weight loss...*



denversean said:


> I don't have 10, but...
> 
> 5) If you are biking solely for the purpose of losing weight, you need a change of attitude. You may actually gain weight for the first few months of riding as muscle builds on your body. My best advice is to not focus on your weight at all, instead focusing on having a good time riding. Exercise is not fun, but riding is. If you truly get the bug, you'll never have to worry about weight again anyway.


I don't have much to input here, since I'm waiting for my bike to come in (so I don't have one right now), but I will comment on this:

The numbers on the scale aren't the most important thing. I know this from experience, since I lost about 64 lbs in a period of 2 months.

Before going crazy on an exercise activity, change your eating habits. Stop eating all the fast food. Stop drinking the soda/pop/coke (or whatever you may call it in your area). Cut down/out all the sweets, etc. Am I saying never have these things? No, that's your own personal choice to make, but control the habits, don't let them control you.

DO NOT try to do everything at once or you'll end up overwhelming yourself and go right back to the bad habits you were trying to break. If you DO crave fast food, have a small fries or something or you'll end up binging on it later. Eventually you'll ween yourself off of it. You'd not believe how many people at my work keep saying they quit this or that "cold turkey" and I see them back on it about 2 weeks later.

If you are losing weight that fast make SURE to keep in touch with your doctor (for me it was fine and healthy, but it's abnormal for most). In any case the scale will go up and down and that's fine, because muscle weighs more than fat. The importance of the scale is to monitor fluctuations and make sure that you don't start going one way or the other too rapidly. If the weight goes way down fast, you may simply be dehydrated. Drink lots of water. Make SURE to weigh yourself at the same time every day (such as just after you woke up in the morning). If you don't then the numbers will be ALL out of whack, because you'll catch yourself after having just eaten.

The point I'm trying to make here is that if you are trying to get in shape you will SEE it. My body weight is increasing overall now (since I'm lifting weights and doing cardio, etc), however my fat content is lowering. When you're a guy and the guys start hitting on you or vice versa (whether you are straight or not), you know it's working.


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## javajunkie

What do you mean by your reference to pie?


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## jsedlak

I am sure it has been mentioned but for hot and long days I freeze half a bottle so during the second half my water is still cold. Best part is it won't rattle like ice.


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## agm2

Another note on LBS relations, treat them nicely and they will treat your the same, I'm a server so I know this all to well. I've bought drinks for a table because they were nice and cool, and I've personally made a table wait for their food because they were rude (don't worry I've never done anything to anyones food). 

Remember that it's a two way street of equals. I ordered a fork from my LBS and it came in and I had them install it. The mechanic was looking for a fork and he liked that one, so I offered to let him take my bike out and ride it to test it out. He did and he's getting that fork now. Today I went in looking for a new fixed hub and he spent an hour helping me track down a hub close to me. Guess what, he found a whole wheel in my price range that will be delivered the next day!

And lets be honest very few lbs's work on comission, it doesn't matter to the workers how much you spend because it doesn't change their paycheck at the end of the week. To them it's not how much your spend but how you treat them.


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## billlaine

Learn pedaling technique. If you are just pushing on the downstroke then your upstroke leg is dead weight.

Get stiff-soled cycling shoes. Pedaling in running shoes is like pounding a nail with a rubber mallet.

Learn how to ride "light" on the saddle.

Practice looking back when you are not in traffic.

Remember when you are on a bike you have "all the rights and responsibilities of a vehicle." Try and obey the laws. Try and show some courtesy towards cars and pedestrians.

Try to get past flat-tire denial. Practice fixing flats. You will get so you can do it quickly on the road. Flats happen. Confidence that you can deal with them is much more satisfying than weighing your wheels down with goop and liners and extra HD tires.

If you are trying to decide between a bike with high-spec components and a so-so frame and a bike with a quality frame and mediocre components go for the frame. You will probably replace most of the components if you ride enough but you will be stuck with the frame forever. 

And, as already mentioned, you will need your local bike shop. Shop at a place where you feel comfortable. If I were looking for a new bike I would let the feeling I had about the shop have an influence on the brand I choose. Once you have a good place work on the relationship. The effort will pay dividends.

Try to replace a car trip with a bike trip once in a while.


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## nealric

> Remember when you are on a bike you have "all the rights and responsibilities of a vehicle." Try and obey the laws. Try and show some courtesy towards cars and pedestrians.


That may be true dejure, but certainly not defacto. There are rights/responsibilities that a cyclist can't sanely exercise or conform with. Sometime you have to break traffic laws for your own safety. Courtesy and sanity is key.


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## cervelo-van

As a new rider since July 2009 it has been a fun learning experience, I should have come here first for these tips. For example, first time I got on the bike, I fell, as I was trying to get into the clips with the bike not in motion. Took a few more falls in the early period. 

For the first few weeks, I was a total chicken in traffic. I was also panicking if I was coming to a stop, especially on a hill, where I had to try both to stop and clip out at the same time. Same goes for clipping in on an uphill. Now all that is past. I still ride the brakes a bit on downhills that I have not been on before. This too is getting better. 

Took me a few months till I was comfortable switching in and out of the big chainring, now its no big deal. I still have to get comfortable with drinking from the water bottle while pedalling. Like anything, practice, practice. I am also having to learn to ride in a group, ok in small groups, not so much yet in larger ones.

Changed 3 flats so far, had some advice from kind riders the first 2 times, so that helped a lot. Cornering is still a definite weak point. I'm also having to learn what works for me nutrition wise. I used to only have a bagel in the morning of the ride. Now I will also have instant oatmeal which helps. 

My rides average 50-65K and I signed up for a 100K in April.


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## DrTom

*My top 10*

1. Get a bike that fits.
2. Get decent shorts
3. Get a bike that fits
4. Learn how to change a flat, in the rain, on a busy road
5. Get a bike that fits
6. Water, snacks and sunscreen are all critical
7. Get a bike that fits
8. Get shoes that fit
9. Oncoming cars can mask the sound of a car behind you. Harley-Davidsons are particulary effective at this.
10. Get a bike that fits.


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## alexb618

another very important piece of advice for beginners - it's not "biking", it's "cycling"

"biking" is what men in leather vests do with their harleys


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## billlaine

If you're anxious about clip-in pedals, if you think they mean certain accident, then think about driving your car. Do you sweat about hitting the brake pedal in time if something sudden happens? 'What if my foot doesn't go to the right place?' Probably not. Clip in pedals, or toe-strap pedals, are the same way. A little learning curve then it's automatic.


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## Taylor Snipes

bigrider said:


> 6. Carry a tire boot, make it out of an old tire with the beads cut off both side and about 3 inches long.
> 9. Buy a wind vest, arm warmers and knee warmers. These three items will extend a fair weather rider's season by at least 4 months.



First, what's a tire boot?

Secondly, I live in Central FL. The coldest it's going to get is 30F, and not often at that. Summer is 90-100. Do I really need the cold weather gear?

Taylor


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## Taylor Snipes

rroselli said:


> 5) Carry some change, a tube and pump. Also those little brass presta couplers incase you need to fill from a station.


What are presta couplers?

Thanks,
Taylor


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## ZoSoSwiM

A presta coupler is a little device that screws onto the presta end making it work with schrader valves. This was in a pinch you can inflate with the typical air gun at gas stations and such. I have 3 or so... 1 for each bike just in case.

1- A clean drive train is a happy drive train
2- Keep all your cycling clothes in one place so it's easier to get ready for that ride you're trying to get ready for
3- Don't try and out race dogs. Unless it's a hot dog it's faster than you think... and not tired from riding already.
4- Be cautious around squirrels and other rodents.. they are magically attracted to bicycle wheels..
5- When hakled by a group or young punks ignore them.. They become disintereted instead of pissed.
6- Don't snot rocket into the wind..
7- Don't snot rocket into passing cars..
8- If possible don't reach for or drink/eat while passing cars.. even if you handle a bike like a pro.. shyt happens.. and cars win when fighting flesh..
9- When little kids wave to you.. Wave back. 
10- When slack jawed onlookers stare at you in your amazing lycra fashion.. wave and smile. (it confuses them more)


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## DrTom

If only 30F was the annual low ... where I live it was 34F today, the fist day of spring, low tonight about 20F. See attached photo taken March 9, 2008. Cold weather gear is relative. 

How do you ride in 100F weather? it must be like riding in a blast furnace. When it's cold, at least you can put on extra layers and push harder to generate some heat. At 100F the only real choice is to find an air-conditioned mall. 

Yours, 

Nanook of the North


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## The M.T. Bike

*For the New Rider*

Figure out what type of riding you'll be doing, and get a bike to suit your needs. Do you need/want a fixed gear, single speed, road racer, touring bike, and so on. You may 'need' more than one bike...I have three...others have more.

Buying used will save you a bunch of money.

It's good to get excited about a new bike. However, don't get so overexcited that you buy a bike without doing your homework...and part of your homework involves _thoroughly_ observing the condition of the bike before you buy. Make sure the frame doesn't have any dents, cracks or other issues. Check to make sure that all of the components work properly. Ride it a mile or two and notice anything and everything you can about the bike - does anything seem loose, are the wheel true, how does it handle rough/bumpy pavement, etc.

"Fit is everything". If a bike doesn't fit right, you're not going to have much fun, especially on longer rides. That being said, if a bike is a smidgen too large or too small try: adjusting the seat (up, down, front, back, and play with its angle a bit). A new stem will drastically change the way a bike fits/feels (you'd be amazed) and only costs around $30.

RESEARCH. Read consumer reviews. Know what's out there - not only when buying a bike, but with any product.

Build a relationship with your local bike shop (LBS). They _live_ bikes, so they have a world of knowledge to help you with any concerns you might have. It helps your community to buy local, and you'll probably find that most of the guys at your LBS are pretty cool people.

Ask questions. If you're not sure about something, talk to your LBS. Post a thread on this site - everyone is more than willing to help out.

Become familiar with your bike. Buy some tools and try basic repairs yourself. When you bring a bike into the shop to get it fixed, instead of leaving or tooling around drooling over the $3000 carbon fiber anomalies they might have in stock - ask if you can observe what they're doing. You can soak up a wealth of useful tips if you listen and ask intelligent questions.

At least _think_ about ditching the car and commuting. Even in the winter. Seriously. I live in Maine...if it can be done here, it's possible most anywhere. I commuted to school most every day this winter, and I know a guy who commuted 7+ miles _all winter long_ on a fixed gear without snow tires. Somebody on this site mentioned that he commutes 75 miles a day(!). It's fun, it gets you in touch with the elements, it'll save you a bunch of money, it's good for the environment, it's great exercise, etc. etc...

And I can't help but recommend this book: The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance and Repair by Todd Downs. It's helped me understand the bicycle immensely. I feel so much more confident knowing that information on the inner workings of most all bike parts and components is waiting on the shelf. With it I have made a number of difficult repairs by myself. Without that book and this site I would be lost.


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## Gymrat

Hamstrings are also a problem for cyclists. The peddle stroke only works them through a partial range of motion so a daily stretching routine is imperative. It also helps if you have a leg curl/leg ext machine available. This way you can work the strength curve thats not getting hit on the bicycle. Oddly enough, your stretching routine is actually more effective after your ride than it is before. You should always be warmed up well before stretching.



purplepaul said:


> I wish I had 10 pearls of wisdom to offer.
> 
> However, I learned one thing a real value lately.
> 
> Out of the blue, my right knee started hurting after 40 miles or so. I mean, real pain. Saddle height didn't change, shoes, pedals, cleats, all the same.
> 
> The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.
> 
> I'm lazy about stretching but at the first sign of knee pain I do it and it works.


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## muscleendurance

1. As much as hype and marketing will lead you to believe...its NOT about the bike!
2.concentrate on improving your fitness first
3 then getting your body weight down IF you want to be more competitive
4 when all else has been exhausted, THEN start looking at flash new wheels, bikes - if your curious if it makes you go faster.
5 'enjoy' riding/training...if dont enjoy it, you wont do it so much as if you do
6 if when it comes time to start 'training' for competition - this is when enjoying your bike comes in. If you dont enjoy riding, you probably wont 'enjoy' training very hard if/when the trime comes.
7 join a cycling club in your area - this is the best way to get advice (face to face) and you can see what results they get from their training rather than taking someones word for it online (use the online as research but, be wary who you take advice from :thumbsup:
8 Eat enough and rest enough to fuel your riding and training
9 realise its hard striking a balance between need (want) for the latest and greatest and what actually will help you improve your training/race times.
10 Did I say enjoy riding first and foremost :wink5:


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## bill

as correct my friend is about the bike -- we all have stories about the guy who shows up on a hybrid or something and blows off everyone's doors -- for some, investing in equipment is a way of, well, investing. and it can provide a psychological motivation.
when I put Record on my bike, I removed any thought that my equipment was holding me back. then I knew it really was all me.


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## nagatahawk

Dave Hickey said:


> #1- Not original but it's worth repeating. Don't upgrade- ride up grades......
> 
> #2- Learn basic bicycle mechanics. You should know how to change a flat, adjust your brakes and adjust your derailleurs.
> 
> #3- If you think upgrading from Shimano 105 to Dura Ace will make you faster, you are sadly mistaken....
> 
> #4- listen to MB1


I bought my Steely with 105, it shifted nice but didn't have that crisp feeling I had been acccustomed to with campy record groupos (old school)

I notice a difference when I upgraded from 105 to Campy Veloce( mid tier grupo 4 down from Record) my lbs prorated the 105 and applied it to the cost of the Campy groupo.

The biike the bike was noticeably faster. I upgraded to Record brakes, much better! Replace the 105/ weinman Wheel set with Camy Shamal, although heavy at 1900 grams it had better hubs and look waay better.

I believe the biggest difference was in the crank set and bottom bracket. 

I did replace the stock michelons with a low end Serfas tire. this may have affected top speed.

I cannot speak for Dura Ace but I would guess that it is more efficient than low end Campy.


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## bill

not to discount the real value of psychological motivation, but I think it was faster because you rode it more.
you're going to get some weight benefit that will not be perceptible, and you'll get fewer glitches in operation (maybe) that might make a difference over lots and lots of time, but upgrading components doesn't make your bike faster.


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## BikeLV702

Ok so I have put some time on the road and have a couple of my own here. 


1. At night, be as visible as possible.
2. You are a direct representation of all cyclists. Just cuz the cool guys on fixies with the capris and chrome bags bomb through traffic doesn't mean it's a good idea. 
3. Commute everywhere possible on your bike and you will, I promise, be 10 times more happy with life in general.
4. In cycling the drink of choice is beer. A close number two...beer again.
5. Be sure you can fix anything on your bike that may break\fail BEFORE it happens on the road. (I learned this the hard way with a fouled up rear der.)
6. The best motivation is getting lost. Go somewhere new and have a general idea how to get home. Adventures are always fun.
7. MUT's are NOT the place for balls out riding. I thought this when I was first riding but now know this is not true.
8. Stay hydrated! Just because your not thirsty does not mean you are not dehydrated. Long term dehydration wreaks havok on the liver\kidneys\everything.
9. ALWAYS slow down when riding next to parked cars. People never look when they are getting out of cars, especially in metropolitan areas.
10. Have fun! It doesn't matter where you go, how far, or how fast just make sure that as your're riding you can stop and think "_This_ is why I ride."


I know many of these have been said but they need to be re-emphasized. Get out and ride.


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## ps249

My top tips:

1. Check the weather forecast
2. Eat lightly before you go out and drink fluids
3. Make sure your bike is prepped (air pressure, somewhat clean, cycle computer is zeroed out).
4. Pick a mileage you want to ride and make sure you leave early enough so when you get back, its still light out.
5. I sometimes drink 5 hour energy to give me that extra boost. (its proven to be harmless).
6. Dont forget to bring whatever you need to bring (gloves, water bottle, pump etc).

I can only think of 6 items. The main thing I do is to make sure the tires are properly inflated.

Have fun riding.


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## Opus51569

*My ten...in no particular order*

1. Don't be that guy who rides on the sidewalk...or against traffic...or without a helmet...or through stop lights or stop signs...don't be that guy. You give the rest of us a bad name.

2. Only listen to half the advice you get on online forums...decide for yourself which half.

3. You are not Lance. You will never be Lance. Lance himself may not be Lance anymore. Be the cyclist you can be.

4. The difference between a $1000 bike and a $3000 bike is about $300. The difference between a $200 bike and a $1000 bike is about a million bucks.

5. I never met Biker Billy, but he was right about weight-weenies and Krispy Kremes.

6. Beware the cult mentality. Put down the cool-aid and remember the simple joy that brought you to riding in the first place.

7. A clean bike is a happy bike. A well-lubed bike is an even happier bike.

8. A clean cyclist is a happy cyclist. A well-lubed cyclist...

9. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. Don't be too stubborn to learn from them.

10. When in doubt...ride.


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## easyridernyc

1. safety first. this can mean different things for different riders in different communitites. whatever it is for you, educate yourself on the standard for safety in the local community in which you ride, and then stick to it. play safe and have fun, sure, but never jeopardize others with irresponsible and reckless behavior in the saddle. another way to state rule number one, use common sense. and dont be a jerk.
2. respect the lines. wherever they are in your local community, mind the lanes and PAY ATTENTION, immediately to what is in front of you, but also to the environment and circumstances generally in which u ride. there are a holes enough to go around on the road. dont u be one of them too.
3. go slow, not fast. especially at first. it takes skill and experience to handle a road bike at a high rate of speed. unfortunately, many riders (typically of the a-hole variety mentioned above) have to learn this lesson the hard way.
4. go slow, not fast. muscles need time to recover. and long slow rides are good for the soul. 
5. stretch, stretch, stretch to keep muscles loose and supple
6. swim, run, whatever, make efforts to cross train to give tired muscles a rest and to work out the ones you dont use when u ride. your cycling muscles will then come back stronger than they ever were before.
7. use carbohydrates to fuel performance. pasta pasta pasta. whole grains and potatoes will also give you long lasting energy to improve functional performance on the road. 
8. obey traffic signals. cruising through red lights is a big no no. see number 1 dont be an a hole.
9. be nice to kids, old folks (like me), and women. good karma goes a long way. pay it forward. 
10. take care of your bike. keep it clean and well lubricated and it will take you places you never dreamed you would go.

and this above all
to thine own self be true 
and it must follow, as the the night the day
thou canst not be false to any man.


i got more but u asked for ten

holla


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## GammaDriver

In addition to tubes:

tip: In the middle of Nowhere, Pennsylvania (which can be a long way from anyone or anything), I even used to take a spare foldable tire in a CamelBak. 

If ya can't cycle a century without carrying the things you may need, you probably ought not to be going that far from home. Consider the hydration pack's and the extra-tire's weight as training for upcoming races where you'll lighten up the weight.

back-up on previous tip: I have forgotten to put my helmet in my car before traveling to races, and forgotten my shoes before driving to MTB locations.


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## Sethsticle

purplepaul said:


> I wish I had 10 pearls of wisdom to offer.
> 
> However, I learned one thing a real value lately.
> 
> Out of the blue, my right knee started hurting after 40 miles or so. I mean, real pain. Saddle height didn't change, shoes, pedals, cleats, all the same.
> 
> The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.
> 
> I'm lazy about stretching but at the first sign of knee pain I do it and it works.



Awesome! I've got the same problem, I hardly stretch much. It's been kicking in about 30-40 miles into each ride, didn't know what was going on... Did your PT friend recommend any particular stretches?


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## moostapha

I've only been cycling a short time, but my advice comes from other areas that I believe will translate for at least some people. There won't be 10 of them.

Cool water is bad, especially in the heat. When you drink cool or cold water, your body thinks you're cold and tries to warm you up by increasing your heart rate (oddly not a problem if doing aerobic exercise) and causing small muscle tremors throughout your body as well as possibly causing cramps in your core, including your diaphragm. This effect happens before people self-report shivering. I don't think this matters to many people, but I don't plan on drinking cold water on a ride unless it's unavoidable. The idea of my hands shaking while trying to modulate brakes scares me enough that it's just not worth the second or so of refreshment compared to dressing properly, and getting hiccups or abdominal cramps at 20+mph seems like a bad idea. 

(Source: unpublished personal research to settle an argument. I used to compete at a national level in Olympic-style Shooting, specifically Air Rifle and Free Rifle. My body literally shakes less as measured by laser training systems when drinking room-temperature water compared to cool or cold water, as did the hands of everyone I tested. I don't remember the numbers and don't have my journal at hand, but the results were statistically significant at .1 using a within-subjects design that was blind or purpose but not treatment conditions for obvious reasons. If you don't care what that means, it doesn't matter.) 

Conversely, cold water can be good in the winter for the same reason. I eat ice cream year-round outside in atlanta. This fact was no different during the winter when it got to -34F on my porch in minneapolis in '95-'96 except that it was cold enough to ruin the ice cream and make my tongue stick to it (made that mistake exactly once). I don't know if this actually matters on a bike. YMMV. My girlfriend, for example, starts shivering if she looks at ice cream and it's less than 75 degrees outside: people who grew up in GA are weird. 

Superglue works better than any second-skin product on the market (for my skin). They make some with applicator brushes. If you can't find it, talk to a guitarist who likes hot wings (I made that mistake exactly once). I'm not sure if this works well for road rash near joints, but I assume I'll find out eventually.

In competition (even with yourself) lots of things go wrong. They will bother you if you let them. 

Cycling is fun for me: just getting on the bike keeps me wanting to do it. It won't always be that way, and it may not be that way anymore for some of you. If you really want to accomplish whatever goals you have, it's not hard to learn how to do it. Set up intermediate training goals and a positive reinforcement program for yourself and start using it before you think you need it but after you know enough to make it realistic. If you fail, it's because your training plan wasn't good enough, not because your training/athletic ability/bike/etc. weren't good enough (assuming you are physically capable of riding a bike). 

If you need help with this idea, read Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor. Twice. First, get over the fact that it's a book on animal training: the author addresses this issue.


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## dgeesaman

Kvonnah said:


> here is just a quick one:
> 
> After riding in the rain, the best and quickest way to dry out your shoes is to stuff them with newspaper.


Try this instead of newspaper! Newspaper holds moisture inside the shoe more than necessary. There's a yet better answer.

- Obviously, remove the insoles.
- Take an old clean towel. Stuff the shoe and wrap the rest around the outside.
- Place the shoe on the floor and press it with your bare feet/toes. Remove the towel and repeat.
- If you got your shoes wet with mud or other organic material, wet the shoe again with clean water and repeat the process with another towel.


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## dysfunction

In hot weather... 

ride early
ride late
night rides are a blast.
drink lots
if you're skin is salty, you do need electrolytes
*keep moving, it's cooler*(although, the cooling effect after being stopped at a light is kind of cool)
sunscreen, or better still.. white arm and/or leg covers (I also dig a white skull cap on sunny hot days)
fill one bottle half way and freeze it (I like to take it out of the freezer an hour or two before the ride so it goes into the bottle holder easier). Drink that one last, it'll be warm enough that you're not cramping from the heat difference, but cool enough to provide some cooling. (see moostapha's post about water temps)
eat less protein. seriously.
as the hot season goes on, you will be more used to it and you can stretch your riding times more into the heat of the day... not so at the start of the season.


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## Ghost234

1) The extra money spent on a good floor pump, helmet, bib shorts, saddle, and bike fitting will be worth it. Comfort and practicality will always trump weight, style, and "bling" factor. 
2) Everyone love a light bike, but experience and training are always more valuable. 
3) You will crash at some point. Try to safely get off the road as fast as you can and always wear a helmet. 
4) There is no excuse for not having tire levers, pump/Co2, and a spare tube
5) If you race you must read Joe Friel's "Cyclists training Bible" and "Training and Racing with a power meter" by Allen and Coggen 
6) Always stretch your quads, calves, hamstrings and Achilles after every ride - this will prevent cramping, and promote muscle growth and recovery. 
7) The best equipment in the world will not make you a better cyclist
8) Being comfortable on the bike is the most important thing
9) If riding in a peleton, give an inch. One day the favor will be returned to you. 
10) There should be hard days and easy days. 
11) Remember the rest days. They are just as important as the training days. Your fitness improves only when you rest - not when you train. 
12) When climbing or sprinting always keep a relaxed upper body, even if you must initially sacrifice speed and power
13) It is not who makes it to the top of the hill first, it is who makes it to the top with the engine ready to go again. 
14) Try to keep your mouth closed when riding. But if you are straining in your efforts: breath in through your nose and out through your mouth. You will last longer this way. 
15) Develop the motivation to ride alone. It can be liberating.
16) Try to keep your heels down when pedaling, this will prevent ankle pain and allow you to use your quads. 

These are the tips I wish someone had told me a while back. I hope it goes to some use.


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## JacoStillLives

the flying moose said:


> also dont make fun of the new guys. we may not have the best and most expensive gear but we do share the love of cycling and are having fun just the same as you.


That's the greatest advice I've ever heard.. Road Cyclists have the tendency of being jerks sometimes. Mountain not so much.


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## vontress

Because it will make your ars hurt and keeps sweat and bacteria in.


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## rcjunkie3000

*Some helpful tips I've learned after a year of cycling*

Here's some helpful tips I've learned after a year of cycling:

1. Get fitted properly for your bike
2. Get a good saddle and good pair of shorts
3. Get a good night's sleep
4. Clean and lube drive train 
5. Check tire air pressure 
6. Wear a helmet and use sunblock
7. Don't forget your front wheel when loading bike (if you have to drive)
8. Use restroom before ride and if you have to, the bushes if no outhouse avail.
9. Eat breakfast 1hr before you ride and carry a PB half-sandwich 
10. New group: don't follow too close; learn how each individual rides

Some others:
-Descend carefully down a hill or mountain. Follow the posted speed limit
-Carry some cash and ID
-Don't ride your brakes, feather them, on super steep downhill inclines 16-23% for long periods esp. with carbon wheels
-Point out road debris to riders behind
-Hydrate during your ride and learn where water holes are
-Bring two water bottles for long rides esp. in hot weather
-Acknowledge other cyclists: wave for slow speeds, nod for moderate speed or say HI!


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## red elvis

thank you for all of your tips. i find them very helpful. i should've read this thread before i posted those silly questions that i had. you guys save a me a lot of money. a couple of days ago i considered buying a lighter wheelset or selling my bike to buy a $3k road bike - thinking that it will make me a better cyclist. last week, a group of cyclists just pass me like were not even riding uphill. they were fast and they pedalled so effortlessly. i tried to go faster to catch up but i was so gassed. if my breathing could power my crank, i should be in front of that peloton. it was embarrassing. i thought i was slow because my bike is heavy. but now i learned that training/riding more will make me better and not buying a more expensive bike. i just started riding few months ago. i fell on my bike several times because my right shoe wont unclipped. it wasnt that bad but at least when i get home, my whole body does not sore the next day unlike when i was learning how to snowboard eight years ago. the first time i get to ride downhill, the wind gushing to my ears right away reminded me of snowboarding. and i said to myself, why did i wait this long. i should've bought a bike long time ago.

i only have some few words of wisdom that i got from my LBS's and experience to share. 
- keep your mouth shut when going downhill. a wasp (or a bee, not sure) got into my mouth and stung my lower lip. when i got home and looked at the mirror, my lips reminded me of angelina jolie.
- don't ride when it's 100F out there even if you have sunscreens on. until now, my knees and shins are still darker than my thighs.
- don't wash your bike too much. water and soap are not good on the bearings. too much grease will only collect dust and dirt.
- if you're approaching a hill slowdown, relax and maintain a steady pace. lean forward, stay low and grab the lower bar to reduce air drag. take shorter breaths just like when youre swimming.
- and above all: always stay in control. when driving a car, on a bike or on a snowboard. because when these ended up controlling you. you are in big trouble.


----------



## Taco Brown

> -Once in a while, go in and buy an innertube, or a couple of power bars, or whatever. Generally, the shops are full of nice people, with good attitudes, but they still have a bottom line. But it's still a business relationship. Everyone knows the internet is cheaper for a lot of things. But Brick and Mortar stores run on money, and things like inner tubes are their bread and butter. Sure it costs a little more. But it's worth it to have a good LBS nearby. And it's definitely worth it to have a good relationship with them, and demonstrate your willingness to make sure that they're making money. If you really want to stand out, buy your stuff during the week, and strike up a conversation about something.


Amen! I say this as a customer of a very good LBS. Its a business, and people have to spend money to keep them alive. I gladly paid more money for a bike at my LBS, because the benefits that I get shopping there are easily worth the extra $'s.


----------



## MSDos5

Nice tip



> Bike seats should be horizontal. Period.


----------



## MSDos5

Because of the demands of this upcoming season I'm thinking of trying some energy bars. I have been using gatorade but that is becoming an inconvenience.


----------



## MSDos5

*My newb top ten*

In no certain order.
1.) Its worth it to spend more on a road bike.
2.) Honey is a good source of glucose.
3.) Put together a blowout kit with a frame pump.
4.) Learn to patch.
5.) Weather can change really quick.
6.) Start a regiment of stretches.
7.) Yield to eighteen wheelers.
8.) Wear a heavy duty sunblock.
9.) Lots of people don't like road bikes in general.
10.) Often times on distance less is more also often healthier.


----------



## SROC3

*Here are some great tips *

I have a bikey blog and I kinda realized that I do have more than 10 posts on it....that could count as some pretty good tips? 

www.thecycleboy.com


enjoy! )))


----------



## Mr. Versatile

Wrap everything in your seat bag in a rag, then wrap rubber bands around the rag to keep it tight. It will keep everything in order, you can use the rag to wipe with after roadside repairs, and your riding partners will appreciate the fact that you bike isn't jingling, rattling, or clanking from loose stuff in the bag.


----------



## Oasisbill

Thanks to all for your wisdom so far. We never know everything, and I for one have learnt and am learning a great deal. Here are maybe some left field ideas.

1. Start breathing more than you have to as you approach a hill, and start and maintain a rhythm immediately. Relate your breath to your cadence, and music can help for this if you choose the right music. 

2. If you are going too fast in a corner, swallow your fear and over-lean into the corner. The positive outcomes will be that you will either make the corner or have gravel rash. The negative outcomes if you don't lean hard enough are that you could go into the path of a car or a wall or a gutter. 

3. Don't try and ride faster than you can ride. It's always just you and your bike. If you get passed by someone and you try and keep up, it might be fine for one minute or two, and then not fine for the next hour. You should maintain your comfortable (slightly uncomfortable) personal tempo and catch them when they slow down in 5 minutes. Likewise when descending. It could end badly.

4. If you get to the point when you are so gone that you have to use all your concentration to ride in a straight line, then you are exponentially more likely to have a accident. Minimise your chances of an accident by a) avoiding this fatigue happening, b) using lights before you need to, c) slowing down when it's wet/icy/when you have the cold shakes, d) Pick carefully where you ride (low/no cars, road shoulder), e) time of day (rush hour). f) Don't run light or stop signs. If you want to be treated equal to a car, then ride like one, including assuming your rightful place on the road and in the lane. having said that, don't argue with a semi-trailer....

5. Spitting/nose missiles make it easier to breath, so learn to expel properly and accurately, and not on other people or on cars. 

6. Water before you ride, just as you start, then at least every 15 minutes whether you feel like it or not (Use you bike computer as a measure). Your feelings have little to do with your real need for hydration. This will most likely stop cramping if that's a problem for you.

7. Don't hold up your trophy on the podium when you're wearing white lycra after a rain stage. They will be looking at the other trophy...  

8. Shatterproof glasses are important (clear or photochromatic if it's getting dark) . I have had so many bugs hit me in the eyes, especially here in the Australian bush that I reckon they have saved my life over and over. 

9. Your rest days are just as important as your ride days. They make you faster just as much as riding does. 

10. What you eat immediately after a ride, especially in the first half hour, affects the state of your muscles enormously the next day. Use your body's hyper absorption straight after a ride to the restore your glycogen stores, especially in the first half hour. Rice or pasta is your friend. 

Get used to the fact that bicycles may very well be not just a hobby or passion, but the only true alternative to the car. This world is heading this way, and I'm proud that if it happened tomorrow I would be completely content with that. To me it is a way of life, and a sport, and art, and a passion, and transport, and freedom.


----------



## Oasisbill

One other thing..... Riding is no where near as effective at helping us lose weight than eating less food is. We folk in the western world can eat half or less food than we already eat and be perfectly healthy. When we are lighter we enjoy riding more and we feel healthier and fitter as a result.


----------



## bwalling

DrTom said:


> How do you ride in 100F weather? it must be like riding in a blast furnace. When it's cold, at least you can put on extra layers and push harder to generate some heat. At 100F the only real choice is to find an air-conditioned mall.


You go out in the morning (which is probably around 89 and humid) and sweat like hell.

It sure beats riding in the cold - I hate cold air in my lungs. Wear all the layers you want, but that air is still coming inside.


----------



## Ripton

jetdog9 said:


> If you do use a roof rack, put something like a garbage can or step stool in the way in your garage so when you get home and you're mentally not there because of the ride, you have a reminder that your bike is on top of your car.


If you drive to where ever you're going to ride, double check the ground round he back of your car before heading home - you will have left something lying around.
Buying a new bike will not make you ride faster or further - that can only be achieved by individually upgrading all of the components including the frame!


----------



## gaspi101

bikeboy389 said:


> For riding in downtown areas:
> 
> If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.
> 
> Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.
> 
> General:
> 
> When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).
> 
> Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.
> 
> Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.
> 
> Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.
> 
> Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.
> 
> Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).
> 
> Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.
> 
> Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.


Excellent advice, this. Thanks.


----------



## onthebottom

Bit of a newb myself but here are the things I've picked up:

1) a comfortable well fitting bike makes everything else better
2) check air pressure before every ride
3) you will get a flat, accept it and be ready for it, it will also be the back wheel - I wrap my spare tube in a latex glove so I'm not filthy when the process is complete - weights nothing, they give them away...
4) have fun, I've done all sorts of workouts in my life and cycling is the only one I really look forward to - do it for the kid in you
5) Bibs, good ones, don't even question it
6) bring water (two bottles for rides longer than 1 hour) and food, I bring small little chewy bars, just something to fuel the engine. I schedule the eating and drink every 10-20 mintues or when I need to stop for traffic. Don't be afraid to fill up the bottles and keep drinking
7) pee before you leave
8) Bring money, ID and a phone
9) have a bag where all the small bits are kept (helmet, gloves, HRM, shoes.....) I have one backpack that holds everything I need (except the bike) and when I head out I put the bike on the car and the bag in the passenger seat and off I go
10) share your experiences and be willing to listen, I've run into a surprising number of people I work with or that are acquaintances that are into cycling, they have insight and lessons that you can learn from... they also fuel the passion.

OTB


----------



## Francis Cebedo

Good ones guys! This is becoming more and more relevant as I'm seeing so many new riders on the road.

There is a driving test for cars but there really is non for cyclists. I think training cyclists on how to buy a bike, maintain it and ride could be a very good thing.

fc


----------



## Physix

When you first start using clipless, make sure you're rolling when you're ready to dismount!


----------



## coby111

Thanks guys, I'm going have to go through this whole thread tonight.


----------



## inthesticks

uber-stupid said:


> Having worked in an LBS (as well as a woodworking supply store)
> -If you want to get in their good graces... Towards the end of the day, if you're a guy, bring in a 6 pack of good beer. If you're a girl, beer works, and so do cookies. Trust me, they'll appreciate it.
> 
> If you want to have a friend at an LBS, (and if you're a newbie, trust me, you want a friend at an LBS) then be a friend. You wouldn't bother your best friend at his job when it's busy, try not to do the same to these poor guys. Stop by on Thursday afternoon, when there's no one else in the store, with a 6 pack of beer, explain to them that you're having a hard time with your bike, and that clearly these bottles are part of the problem. Beer is a complicated problem, requiring time, patience, and thorough consideration, and I'm sure they'll be willing to think it through, and talk shop with you.


Problem is, what type/flavor..?


----------



## Jean-Claude

Great tips!


----------



## Revolutionary Technique

Thank you all for the awesome tips. They were very insightful.


----------



## farleyhanes

Awesome tips!!


----------



## bcp483

Florentine Pogen said:


> 4. Keep 20 bucks inside your handlebar for a emergency.


This is a good one, I usually opt out of putting cash in my seat bag or jersey pockets because I will probably lose it, now to remember I rolled it up and shoved it in my bars...


----------



## Smoke2

Great advice here all.

Hope to be able to contribute one of these days.


----------



## skcuf

If you're a dude, don't wear loose underwear. Nothing looser than boxer briefs EVER or you're risking injury. Common sense? Maybe, but some people don't fall into the category of street smarts


----------



## lkwmic

bikeboy389 said:


> For riding in downtown areas:
> 
> If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.
> 
> Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.
> 
> General:
> 
> When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).
> 
> Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.
> 
> Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.
> 
> Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.
> 
> Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.
> 
> Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).
> 
> Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.
> 
> Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.




Thanks for your recommendation. In Hong Kong not many people give such advices for our beginner.:thumbsup:


----------



## gailnaz

Great advice! Anything on riding in extreme heat? I ride (and live!) in Arizona.


----------



## gaspi101

gailnaz said:


> Great advice! Anything on riding in extreme heat? I ride (and live!) in Arizona.


Yes: I've done a couple of centuries in 93+ degree heat, and the most important thing to have with you is a bottle of ICE WATER. Gauge how far you're going to go, when you can refill, etc. For me, when I go down to the Florida Keys, I take two bottles of drink, and two bottles of ice that I froze overnight and I put in the holders behind my seat--the frozen bottles were Polar insulated. That way, I have enough to drink for the first 50 miles, and importantly, have TWO bottles of ice that will slowly melt and provide me plenty of cool water to dump on top of my head and back, making the ride a million times more pleasant. 

With that system, I think I can ride for ever in the hottest of heat.


----------



## Asuryan9

Wow, lots of good tips, some I wouldn't even of thot about, thanks a lot all.


----------



## gaspi101

gaspi101 said:


> Yes: I've done a couple of centuries in 93+ degree heat, and the most important thing to have with you is a bottle of ICE WATER. Gauge how far you're going to go, when you can refill, etc. For me, when I go down to the Florida Keys, I take two bottles of drink, and two bottles of ice that I froze overnight and I put in the holders behind my seat--the frozen bottles were Polar insulated. That way, I have enough to drink for the first 50 miles, and importantly, have TWO bottles of ice that will slowly melt and provide me plenty of cool water to dump on top of my head and back, making the ride a million times more pleasant.
> 
> With that system, I think I can ride for ever in the hottest of heat.


Scratch that---Just did one this weekend and temp hit 98 degrees...ice water, ice water, baby...


----------



## Rob

If you're looking into a low, blinding sun, remember that drivers coming up behind you are looking into the same sun and may not be able to see you as well as normal. Conversely, if the sun is low _behind_ you, remember that cars coming from the opposite direction are looking into the sun and don't have good visibility in your direction. In either case, be careful and don't assume that you have been seen until you are sure of it.

My driver's ed teacher taught me this many years ago but it's even more important when you're on a bike.


----------



## gailnaz

*oncoming sun*

Great comment, great advice. I nearly turned in front of a truck one morning because the rising sunlight was so funky, I just did not see it. Now I try and get out and do my easterly riding before the sun crests the horizon.


----------



## alpharoad

very nice tips.
thanks


----------



## mmMike

Blue Sugar said:


> 1. When checking behind for traffic look over your RIGHT shoulder, you need to turn your head less that way.


I know this was posted years ago, but can somebody explain this?


----------



## ChubaDub

mmMike said:


> I know this was posted years ago, but can somebody explain this?


ditto. unless they're in europe lol


----------



## OutAndBack

Lots of good tips here.


----------



## CyclingVirtual

Dont read tips


----------



## cmanbrazil

much to remember. Much to learn. Thanks from a newbie. My bike is in layaway and I am fighting not overspending on an upgrade. I did ride three years ago and on bike trails and it was wonderful. Hopefully over the winter my spin bike and I will become good friends and I will be in better shape to ride come spring.


----------



## cpltomcat

Damn, wrong thread! Sorry!


----------



## sc87

pixelgrunt said:


> Also, it's a good idea to *learn to ride rollers.* They help immensely with riding a straight line smoothly, which is very important on roads with small shoulders.


I've got a question...since I'm semi-new to roadbiking, what does "learn to ride rollers" mean? I've never heard of this and I'm intrigued now.


----------



## Oasisbill

sc87 said:


> I've got a question...since I'm semi-new to roadbiking, what does "learn to ride rollers" mean? I've never heard of this and I'm intrigued now.


Watch this: Stupid Rollers Tricks - YouTube

This is (silly) riding on rollers...


----------



## Fireman aponte

Try to get some chamois and rub it on ur bEhind


----------



## Minnesnowtan

There may not be ten in this post.... There are three kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't.

1) Don't judge a product by brand, judge by the model.
2) Just because someone gets a paycheck at a LBS doesn't make them a good source of advice.
3) Top quality flat resistant tires are a far better investment than tire liners, thick tubes or slime.
4) Have a good mirror and use it.
5) Stores wish to sell what they stock, so you may miss out on excellent Surly or Salsa bikes if you don't ask specifically.


----------



## lawrence

I agree with everything BUT 3) Top quality flat resistant tires are a far better investment than tire liners, thick tubes or slime. I've been using the thicker tubes usually called thorn resistant, and I have used $12 Vittoria Zaffiro tires for 25,000 miles and never got a flat. I haven't gotten a flat for 40,000 miles using the thicker tubes.




Minnesnowtan said:


> There may not be ten in this post.... There are three kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't.
> 
> 1) Don't judge a product by brand, judge by the model.
> 2) Just because someone gets a paycheck at a LBS doesn't make them a good source of advice.
> 3) Top quality flat resistant tires are a far better investment than tire liners, thick tubes or slime.
> 4) Have a good mirror and use it.
> 5) Stores wish to sell what they stock, so you may miss out on excellent Surly or Salsa bikes if you don't ask specifically.


----------



## Minnesnowtan

Minnesnowtan said:


> 2) Just because someone gets a paycheck at a LBS doesn't make them a good source of advice.


I was talking to a bike shop owner, and as we spoke I heard his guy selling to walk-ins: "The Specialized frames are better than the Cervello frames... Cervello is built too strong so they crack more.... The Apex is much better than 105...." 

That guy spewed enough BS to fertilize an acre. And the owner did nothing. Either he didn't hear or didn't care.

I have spoken to several local (maryland) shops and asked about winter riding and studded tires. Some told me that studded tires were a bad idea because you get no traction with steel studs on the road. He just used slick tires and was simply more careful on the ice... 

Meanwhile, I correspond with some people who do use studded tires and publish blogs about their experiences. I find a lot more fact in forums and blogs than I do in many bike shops.

I went to a well established Trek shop and asked one of their senior guys how big of a tire that the Portland could handle, and he told me 28mm. Really? I know of someone who has fenders and 35mm tires on his Portland and other commuters do too.

Too often the letters LBS show a good deal of BS involved. You have to be a more educated person to avoid the misinformation at too many places.


----------



## Rum Runner

Great advise in this thread! The part about making friends with the LBS is so true! Also join the local bike clubs.


----------



## KHRONOS_13

lmfao great stuff.


> @RoadRash "You can shave better than your girlfriend. Giving her tips is OK"


----------



## TTigg

Great stuff in here - thanks guys


----------



## zduchene

1 tip: Get a bike fit! It can improve your average speed by two to three miles per hour. You will also notice a difference in comfort on your bike, which will help a lot of things.


----------



## flannels

gaspi101 said:


> Excellent advice, this. Thanks.


good stuff


----------



## flannels

MB1 said:


> 1) Ride lots.
> 2-10) See #1
> 
> O.K., O.K. I'll play nice.
> 
> 2) Wash and dry your waterbottles after every ride.
> 3) Wash and dry your shorts after every ride.
> 4) To go longer-slow down and stop less often.
> 5) Don't pay any attention to your computers average speed function.
> 6) Do pay attention to how long it took you to do the ride including stops.
> 7) Train on heavy wheels/tires.
> 8) Do your important events on lite wheels/tires.
> 9) Ride in every weather condition except hurricanes, tornadoes, lightning and ice storms.
> 10) See #1
> 
> A few bonuses;
> b1) Only stop at rest stops long enough to pick up some food and liquid. Eat and drink on the bike.
> b2) If it is not fun, don't do it.
> b3) Brooks saddles work.
> b4) Learn how to do your own work on your bike.
> b5) Learn how to fix your own flats.
> b6) You can replace an innertube and be back on the bike in less than 2 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.
> b7) See #1



more good stuff


----------



## Winters

In my neighborhood, rollers are for Winter training and conditioning ... it is indoor training that is more like real bicycling than having the bike's rear clamped into a bike trainer or taking spin classes at the gym. ... Rollers have a learning curve, kinda like ice skating at first. 

As to the YouTube video commenters ... Yea, I'd like to see that guy try coasting on rollers with a fixie. 

A fixie is a single-speed bicycle without a freewheel: whenever the bike is moving the pedals will go around. You cannot coast on a fixie. ..... Spin classes at the gym are for meeting people.


----------



## GeorgeB Minnesota

bikeboy389 is right.
I've heard it said "righty tighty, lefty loosy"


----------



## spoon243

great stuff here


----------



## cycocross

*3 tips I haven't seen yet*

1. eyes. Protect them at all times. Use them at all times. Practice riding a straight line while looking over your (both) shoulder, try this in a open area first. 
The more you use your peripheral vision the better it gets. Use it often.

2. ears. Use them at all times. Do not use ear buds until you feel very comfortable and then on low volume. Hearing traffic approach from behind will make it safer for everyone.

3. mouth. riding with your mouth wide open will dehydrate you faster but will allow you of an abundance of free, usable protein. If you do not want to eat a bug while you're breathing hard with your mouth wide open, curl your tongue up and rest it on the roof of your mouth. 

Read this entire thread it has great advice for beginners, one side note it is okay to wear your underwear on the outside of your kit. vehicles will give you more more berth in passing if you do. :thumbsup:


----------



## MadisonBiker

Derailleur Adjustments:

After buying and reading books and articles on adjusting derailleurs, it finally "clicked" in my brain after doing about 20 adjustments (with lots of frustration)

Rear Derailleur Key - if it is slow to move inward to the larger rings, tighten the cable / If it is slow moving down to the smaller outer rings on the rear derailleur, loosen the cable

Maybe this was written somewhere and I missed it, but it sure makes adjustments easy now!


----------



## MadisonBiker

Setting inner and outer derailleur limits:

I think it is easier to do this on new installations BEFORE you attach the cable. That way you can truly see where the derailleur's limits and resting place are without any interference from the cable.

(I'm not trying to be a wise guy...just trying to get my 5 post where I can ask questions myself.)


----------



## MadisonBiker

*Truing wheels without a truing stand*

It's easy to true a wheel without a truing stand, as long as you do not have disk brakes. Use the brake pad as a guide and adjust the tension so the wheel is true based on the brake pads.


----------



## radagascar

This thread could be made into a book...the newbie's cycling bible or something like that. Real helpful, thanks guys.


----------



## SolitaryRider

MadisonBiker said:


> Setting inner and outer derailleur limits:
> 
> I think it is easier to do this on new installations BEFORE you attach the cable. That way you can truly see where the derailleur's limits and resting place are without any interference from the cable.
> 
> (I'm not trying to be a wise guy...just trying to get my 5 post where I can ask questions myself.)


I'm a noob.....but that is something I discovered when setting up my first [mail-order] bike a few months ago. I did the rear derailleur that way. I did it once...and have never had to touch the RD since! That is the way I will ALWAYS do it....works great!

I'd imagine it'd work just as well on the FD if you have two chainrings- but if you have a triple, as I do, the cable tension seems to be critical for the middle ring (Although I'd imagine if you set the limits with the cable slack...and then just played with the cable tension to get the middle ring working properly, it'd probably still work...

I think doing it this way really makes adjustment easy! Great tip!


----------



## Adroit Mak

thanks for the information


----------



## Randonneur*

Campagnolo is pronounced CAMP-ON-YO-LA


----------



## zonefinder

1) Check your tire pressure before rides
2) Check your tires for small stones caught in holes or scratches on weekly basis and patch up with rubberized glue. Will minimize punctures.
3) novice riders should not draft too close 
4) Always keep your eyes in front or on riders ahead of you.
5) make sure enough nutrition/food and hydration during ride.
6) always wear bright colours
7) have your tail and front lights on
8) keep your chains cleaned and well lubricated before every ride
9) riding in groups is more fun and riding alone
10) make sure your bike suits your size


----------



## Jbravo44

thank you very good


----------



## SolitaryRider

zonefinder said:


> 9) riding in groups is more fun and riding alone


That's a matter of personal opinion. Personally, I like the quietness and freedom of solo riding...it just takes more guts to ride alone on some roads......


----------



## Eng4G3

Thanks for all the info, this thread has been extremely enlightening!


----------



## Bail_Monkey

When riding downhill:
Place your left foot down for right hand turns
Place your right foot down for left hand turns

In general, this places a 50/50 weight distribution on the front and back tires for maximum traction through the turn.

Another for the downhill: Try not to lean your body too much into the turn, lean the bike and keep your upper torso weight over your wheels. If your going fast enough and lean into a turn, your tires are more likely to wash out.


----------



## Miles42

This is one of the best sites for a beginning rider. Even an old one.


----------



## thu1985

nice tips. thanks


----------



## hoblxblood

well . my biggest tip is to eat breafast.

i once had a 4am wake up with a group ride, didnt have appetite. And rode without anything but water in my system. No energy, got lightheaded, felt sick, cold sweat. HAd a big lunch, all better. ALWAYS eat. lol


----------



## batwings

Great advice everyone.


----------



## Andrew L

I read through the entire thread, great stuff!


----------



## svrider0021

Thanks for all the great tips and ideas, very helpful to a new rider like myself.


----------



## 2fun

VERY helpful thread!


----------



## CMS062407

bikeboy389 said:


> For riding in downtown areas:
> 
> If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.
> 
> Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.
> 
> General:
> 
> When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).
> 
> Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.
> 
> Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.
> 
> Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.
> 
> Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.
> 
> Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).
> 
> Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.
> 
> Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.


thanks!


----------



## pete210

From my days on motorcycles, another favorite:

Just because the driver at the cross street appears to make eye contact with you, don't assume they therefore won't pull out in front of you anyway!


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## DanielMM

Some great advice here. I still have lots to learn. Any suggestions on websites or articles on newb tips and info?


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## mhanshaw

I am brand new to cycling and feel that I have gained so much more knowledge through reading these posts. Thanks so much everyone.


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## gaspi101

mhanshaw said:


> I am brand new to cycling and feel that I have gained so much more knowledge through reading these posts. Thanks so much everyone.


That's what we're here for, sir! Now post a pic of you with your steed!


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## LiquidX

I took notice to the tip posted about 
churches and water. 

Never noticed before and well, the ones around here didn't have outdoor water supplies. 

The one that did was shut off so with that info, if you are running low on water, a church MAY have water available. I would still ride around looking for a spigot or pump. 

Parks seem good too, water is water.


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## ScottsSupersix

1. Use "no tears" sun block for your forehead and any area above your eyes. 
2. Know that standing water in the road may hide cracks or pavement gaps that can grab your front wheel and toss you off.
3. Carry two tubes, double flats can happen.
4. Replace your tires when they are getting worn or exceed their wear indicator; don't push them for a few extra miles.
5. Watch for gravel or rocks on turns, reduce your speed by braking before the turn, and keep your inside pedal up for clearance.
6. Don't be too anxious to upgrade to the next faster ride group; that upgrade is a humbling experience for most people.
7. Help the new cyclists, or the people that are newer to cycling than yourself. New cyclists have alot of challenges and fears; it is great to have someone who can provide encouragement and road wisdom.
8. If you see a cyclist on the side of the road, call out to ask if they need anything.
9. Always point out or call out road imperfections during group rides, especially large cracks or bumps that could take down a cyclist. 
10. Call out "slowing!" when you are slowing speed or braking, especially with riders behind you, to ensure they have enough time to react.


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## Cavan

Best bits of advise ever. Feeling more confident after the "Don't worry about your first bike" thing. I'm excited to get more and more into this sport/hobby


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## TattooedMtBiker

Just started reading through these...what a wealth of tips. THANKS!!!!


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## notquitethere

Relative newbie here - posting a couple of things I didn't see.

1) Happened to me last night - periodically check the bolts on your cleats. Luckily I was only on the trainer, but getting a cleat out of a pedal is not easy! Riding home would have really sucked.

2) When looking behind you or doing anything else one handed, move the hand on the bar close to the stem, you will be less likely to move off your line.

3) Keep all your essential gear together. I have an old backpack that has gloves, helmet, sunglasses etc all together. It used to hold all my riding clothes too, I have since acquired too much for one bag and have a dedicated drawer for the clothes.

4) From my old MTB days, I have a old tool box of random bike parts and extra tools that goes in the car with me if I am driving to a ride start. You never know when one of those pieces will help someone make the ride.


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## ScottsSupersix

One more to add to my list, based on my ride group's "Shower Ride" this afternoon:

11. When a thunderstorm hits out of nowhere, seek shelter if you can, but until you do, put a large gap between you and the other riders, since your braking ability is greatly reduced and the rider in front of you will be spinning water into your face if you are too close. Hold your line, brake lightly on downhills to scrub speed, and watch for pools of water on the right side of the road.


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## pschnei3

Great tips in here


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## JRide6

notquitethere said:


> 2) When looking behind you or doing anything else one handed, move the hand on the bar close to the stem, you will be less likely to move off your line.


This is a great tip! I've been utilizing this on my first couple of rides and it really helps me hold my line while looking back. Coming from motorcycles that are really stable my bicycle feels really twitchy since it is so light. 

Don't think I saw this tip but if I missed it I apologize for the repeat. 

Always keep your vision up the road. How far up the road will depend on your speed. This will help avoid hitting any kind of debris in the road since you will see it well in advance and can plan accordingly. This has saved me from running over debris and missing a patch of sand mid corner already.


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## Thiel

When riding alongside a row of cars--or anything else--watch the SHADOWS they cast on the ground for any movement that is happening between the cars (eg a kid running out between two parked cars)


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## Eli1098r

Great advice. Thanks


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## Eli1098r

Great tips.


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## Liz

DrTom said:


> 1. Get a bike that fits.
> 2. Get decent shorts
> 3. Get a bike that fits
> 4. Learn how to change a flat, in the rain, on a busy road
> 5. Get a bike that fits
> 6. Water, snacks and sunscreen are all critical
> 7. Get a bike that fits
> 8. Get shoes that fit
> 9. Oncoming cars can mask the sound of a car behind you. Harley-Davidsons are particulary effective at this.
> 10. Get a bike that fits.





> Get a bike that fits!


 YES! :thumbsup:

After a car accident, I can't lift my Trek mountain bike to get it onto the rack. Not to mention that I'm getting older! I had to make a big decision about getting a small bike...

So.....long story short. I just went from a Trek mountain bike to a 20" folding bike. It was a challenge to even know if it "fit" since it is so different - and I was not sure I wanted it. However, it weighs only 26 lbs. and folds beautifully so I can more easily plop it into the trunk of my car. 

Right now, I'm in the process of making a few adjustments and modifications. FINALLY! After a couple of weeks, I'm at the point where I'm just beginning to enjoy the ride! Not just testing it anymore. It's getting to be FUN!

Great thread.

Liz


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## menatwork_mn123

I learned a few good things from reading this thread. Thanks!

1. Don't hesitate to take a whole lane on a narrow single lane road. You have the same right as the car and this will force the car to slow down which will be safer for everyone.

2. Change to a lower gear before stopping. This will make it easier to restart, espcially on an uphill.

3. At a stop sign/light, restart with your left foot. This way you will more likely to pedal your bike to the right side and not into traffic (especially if you're on a higher gear).

4. Best tail light: Dinotte 400R

5. Best helmet light: Exposure Lights Diablo

6. Best handle bar light: Exposure Lights MaxxD

7. Invest in a good set of night lights and you will not have an excuse of not to ride after work and after dark.

8. European clothes are usually one size smaller than US (their large is like US medium).

9. Stretch your quad, lower back and side after a ride. You will recover much quicker.

10. Many short rides throughout the week is better than one long ride a week. Best is many short rides plus one long ride a week.


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## ijuf

jlfbogey said:


> Cycling shorts are like swim trunks---designed to be all inclusive and self-sufficient. They have a nice chamois (that strange looking pad covering your nether regions that makes you look like your shorts are full of sh*t when you walk around in public wearing them) that is meant to cushion, ventilate, and directly comfort those nether regions, possibly aided by a nice skin lubricant like Body Glide or Chamois Creme (various brands). Wearing underwear inside your shorts separates you from the chamois negating its function, and allows for the additonal to bunch up in tight spots and actually cause mroe saddle sores or blisters. Cotton underwear in particular is a problem as it holds moisture and causes chafing and possible jock itch to set in. Bike shorts are designed to both comfort and breath simultaneously, and wearing underwear underneath them blocks both effects. Don't worry, you will get used to the feeling after only a few rides and will quickly figure out that we are right and why.



Good advice, but I really haven't felt comfortable enough to not wear underwear.


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## ijuf

All very good advice...

If you're a beginner to road biking, get used to clipless pedals sooner than later. The more you delay learning how to use them, the more you will be scared of them.


----------



## dnmoss

Adding something on training that I wish I knew when was starting out, but only just learned last year (call me foolish)...

All those books and articles that talk about aerobic/endurance training and base building are correct!

When you are relatively untrained, the trick to getting faster is actually to ride slower...spend most of your time doing endurance work (roughly 70-75% MHR) -- you will build fitness and also train your body to recover more quickly (so you can then do high intensity intervals without needing 3-4 days recovery). 

You'll see lots of folks going as hard as they can for a few miles and then recovering and then going hard again -- classic example is going really hard up a hill and then coasting on the descent (you are doing NO work if you are coasting)...

Try this on your next ride -- gradually build up effort (not speed, but effort) until you hit your heart rate zone and then try to keep in that zone the entire ride...you might be going incredibly slow up a hill and bombing it down a hill (no coasting)...you will start to see noticeable gains (in my case, after 8 years of riding with little to no structure in my training, I was able to improve power to weight ~25% with just a few months where I spent 75% of my time base building/endurance and 25% tempo/intervals)


----------



## EMR

1. Get fitted by a Pro 
2. Learn to wrench on your own bike
3. Learn to ride rollers to help your pedal stroke
4. Learn to ride fixed gear 
5. Buy Speedplay X/2's no other pedal system compares
6. Learn to replace a tube fast if you intend to ride with a group
7. Learn to ride with no hands, just because
8. Climbing will make you strong
9. Intervals make you strong
10. Ride in the drops


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## triILL

1.) make/ get friends involved. group rides are soooo much more fun than long solo efforts.
2.) solo efforts are great to improve focus and speed.
3.) indulge yourself a little (with moderation of course). simple things like new socks or jersey make rides more enjoyable.
4.) invest in a high quality water bottle. again, the little things are often underrated but can make a fair difference.
5.) you don't have to justify yourself to EVERYONE who asks why you dress like you do or why you ride instead of drive etc. sometimes the simple "because i enjoy it" is all you need. 
6.) riding is the best way to get better at riding (haha duh)
7.) unless you are a master mechanic, make friends with the guys at you LBS. it might save you some $$ down the road.
8.) ride defensively in traffic.
9.) some drivers will cut you off, honk, yell, swear at you etc. keep your emotions in check and remember that you are still responsible for any remarks/gestures you make. they can potentially land you in some hot water if you're not careful.
10.) Never forget why you fell in love with this sport.


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## rti27

i'll go in a like different direction.
Buy a bike that fits, something your happy with. .
Don't buy a bike where you have to upgrade every component to be happy with the quality. 
Make the most out of your seat bag, mult tools, tube, patch kit, tape, money, cell phones are great if you get lost.
Don't buy too many bikes.
Don't use your road tires on a trainer, it will chew it up.
Take along plenty of water.


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## azneinstein

Always bring water... lots and lots of water...


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## LucaRossi

learn the correct signals if planning to ride with a group


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## Southzax

When being pursued by a vicious animal, take out your water bottle and squirt it. Usually it confuses them just enough that they give up. Saved me more than once.


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## Higgins23

Southzax said:


> When being pursued by a vicious animal, take out your water bottle and squirt it. Usually it confuses them just enough that they give up. Saved me more than once.


Love this! Oh the visuals I'm having ....


----------



## mtorres92

bikeboy389 said:


> For riding in downtown areas:
> 
> If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.
> 
> Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.
> 
> General:
> 
> When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).
> 
> Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.
> 
> Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.
> 
> Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.
> 
> Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.
> 
> Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).
> 
> Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.
> 
> Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.


Great tips


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## Mr_Clean

Wave at motorists when approaching bends. They will notice you this way.


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## y2kota

Read the full thread, didn't see (or missed it ) I plan my rides according to the wind. I'll ride into the wind for the first half of the ride. This way the ride home is with the wind at my back. 

Yeah, a few times the wind changed and had to ride into it both ways


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## chudson0616

gaspi101 said:


> Scratch that---Just did one this weekend and temp hit 98 degrees...ice water, ice water, baby...


Ive always been told that ice water is a no no because it aids in cramping.


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## y2kota

chudson0616 said:


> Ive always been told that ice water is a no no because it aids in cramping.


That's ture. Cool water is OK.


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## marcusc

I'm new to riding, so I only have one:

-*When using a C02 inflator, DO NOT HOLD ANYTHING WITH YOUR BARE HANDS! Use your punctured tube to hold it.*


I was rushing home in the cold, dark, and rain to tend to my dog and hit something and got a flat in the ghetto. Great. Having never used a C02 before, I held the adapter, hard, against the valve. The result is a frost bitten index finger...live and learn.


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## jjaguar

If you transport your bike on a roof rack and you park your car in a garage, before backing out of the driveway put something in front of the garage door (like a bucket or garbage can or a traffic cone or something) to remind yourself to stop and get the bike off the rack before trying to pull in. That's a lesson you don't want to learn the hard way.


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## dayfour18

Almost done updating an old Peugeot and get back into roading after years away...still a noob myself I guess, but...

After years on MTB, I think these always hold true:
1. Wear gloves : Not much worse than having to ride home with road rash palms against the bars

2. Wear some kind of glasses : Protect your eyes...you never know what can get kicked up in your direction. Cycle glasses with multiple inserts are great, but good sunglasses are essential. Wear something at night too..clear...yes there are some "safety" glasses that are pretty modern and don't look like you just walked out of chem lab.

3. DO NOT give in to the innocent thought of "testing" your new clipless pedals by snapping in the cleat before you install on the bike. Trust me. They are VERY hard to get apart. Can't say much more NOOB than having to walk into the LBS and ask for help getting them apart...luckily I did not get that far  They will work after mounted. Your leg strength and the lever of the shoe will see to that. Trust they'll do what they're supposed to do...

Can't wait for my last parts and get out and see how it rides


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## sportpaddy

Hi
I'm just about to get my first road bike and narrowed it down to 2...ok maybe 3! They are a Cannondale Caad 8, Giant Defy 3, Scott Speedster 40 and now ive gone and seen the Ribble bikes on their website! Does anybody know about Ribble? Seems like a lot of bike for the money! Thanks James Ribble Gran Fondo at Ribble Cycles


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## Ghislainc911

Awesome tips, coming from a very beginner that has like 2 rides total so far =) Thx!


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## Ghislainc911

Thx everyone for all the tips! Its so nice to see experienced people sharing their knowledge and making us "the noobs" safer!


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## paredown

Great thread and lots of tips for everyone--new riders and old.

I just have one set of connected thoughts to add. Your road bike has funny bars for a reason--they are designed to be used in different ways:

1. Your hands can be (a) on the tops; (b) on the (brake) hoods; (c) in the drops or on the hooks--below the hoods. In any position (as mentioned) don't use a death grip and stay relaxed.

2. Move your hands around the bars to avoid numbness or discomfort--don't ride thirty miles with your hands in one position.

3. The places where your hands can be put serve different purposes--time and experience will teach you what works for you, but a rough guide is:
(a) on the tops when relaxing, reconnoitering, or if you need to take one had off to get water etc.; 
(b) on the hoods--for climbing, general riding or situations where you need quick brake access; 
(c) on the drops--descents, fast riding, and into headwinds.

4. I usually ride with my hands on the hoods--and move my hands up onto the outside corners of the tops when climbing (elbows slightly out)--this is preference. Other riders will climb with their hands on the hoods. Few riders will try to climb with their hands on the drops...

Practice moving your hand positions around and feel the benefits and drawbacks of the various positions, and develop your own personal preferences.


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## s-one

Great tips! My contributions:


 Don't have to have expensive eye protection. These safety glasses (example and example) will work also.

 Get a small air compressor that automatically shuts off at designated psi's. This allowed me to pump tires before each ride and dawn bike gear while its running. If the compressor is a "schrader only" fitment like most small compressors, cut off the chuck and buy this universal kit. (or similar) Just make sure the compressor you purchased can handle your max psi. I use a small cheap 12volt + electrical Costco version.

 For Weight weenies, lose the presta valve nuts and caps.

 If privacy is a concern to you when starting/ending routes with your GPS devices.. do so no where near your homestead. This is for those who upload their activities to sites such as Garmin, Strava, MapMyRide etc...

 *Out on rides never get complacent.*


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## Mountainking

Amateur cyclist here:
1. Took me 5 years to realize this. Never ride by looking at the speedometer for speed. Just let your heart rate guide you. No HR monitor needed. 
2. 2 chambers and a pump will save you someday. 
3. Always wear a helmet.


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## Ullr

A good time to buy a bike is at the end of the season, when the shops are getting rid of old inventory and making room for winter sport equipment. Of course it means one has to deal with the cold, or not ride at all.

As far as riding in cold weather, I have stuffed a plastic bag under my helmet to cut the wind. It is cheap, can't be seen and makes the cold a little more bearable. I have a skull cap too, but some days the wind is too much for the skull cap alone.

Also, one of my wrecks I happened when I was zipping downhill with bright sunlight on my face, and I couldn't see a fallen branch on the pavement that was hidden in the relative darkness of shadow from a tree. I flew over the handlebars, and hit the pavement. My eyes couldn't adjust quickly enough going from full sun to full shade, and I didn't know I hit anything until it was too late.

Edited to add one more thing concerning cycling: It is not the bike, it is the rider.


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## Eveready

This place is fantastic ! 
As a newbie, I can use all the help that I can get.
Thanks to all of you old-timers for taking the time to offer help 
to those of us who are just starting out. Much appreciated.


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## trashysquid

ijuf said:


> All very good advice...
> 
> If you're a beginner to road biking, get used to clipless pedals sooner than later. The more you delay learning how to use them, the more you will be scared of them.


+1. I jumped right into the deep end and got clipless pedals the day I got my roadie. First few rides were terrifying (especially when coming to four way stops) and almost flopped on my side more than once, but I got used to them in a week. Now, I can't see riding without them...just put a set of SPDs on my hybrid, too.


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## TrekJunkie

My personal experience from a total noob to road bike vet:

*WHEELS*: If you want to have the bling of carbon wheels, get one with an aluminum braking surface. Stronger braking = safer riding

*BIKE FIT*: No matter what the fitter tells you, the best indicator of a good bike fit is the absence of body pain (knees, elbows, etc) during riding.

*COMPONENTS*: 
1)Once you try electronic groupsets (Di2, EPS) you're never going back to mechanical
2) *Shimano*: Affordable, reliable. *Campy*: Expensive, Sexy. *SRAM*: no comment 

*CLIMBING STEEP ASCENTS*: Climbing is painful. Climbing is fun

*FLATS*: Practice changing tires for flats before they happen. Do so on the wheels you use most often.

*BIB CHAMOIS CREME*: Use it, your nether regions will thank you for it.


----------



## kps88

This is simply the issue with today's LBS. They want to have customers and be "busy", but make sure we all walk on egg shells, mind our manners, don't make eye contact until the right time...get over yourself. 

I spend MY money at an LBS and they should appreciate that...its that simple. I did EXACTLY as you advised and here is what happened:

I ordered a $3,250 14 Super Six EVO Ultegra in November of 2013. I also upgraded the cockpit, bought a gps and a jersey. I then mentioned I wanted lighter/stronger/better wheelset. I was going to order online (because I didn't want to spend $800 plus tax on a Mavic Ksyrium Elite's). They offered a "trade in" of the curent wheels and I purchased the Ksyrium's for an additonal $500. With year end discount the total came out to be around $3,800.

While making payments all Winter I stopped in every two weeks. I never "bothered" them when a customer was in the store. i fact, I once waited 30 minutes to make a payment !!!! The payment only takes 0ne minute..they know that and know why I come in every two weeks. I brought other little things while I was there. I hung out a bit and had many friendly talks. When I picked up the bike in March I got both employees dunkin donuts gift cards (for what reason..I have no idea. I bought a freakin bike and paid $3,800). This is what I got:

One mechanic told me to schedule a "bike fit". There were two available. One was free and basic (seat height, stem/handlebar angle, knee measurement). the other cost $80 and had all this information for me at the end. I told him lets do basic and if I felt uncomfortable on the bike I would come back for $80 fit. He told me EXACTLY what to expect.

I roll in the day to get fitted and pick up bike. The OTHER employee (and obvious jerk) had me stand up against the counter and pedal. he eye balled my fit. 

I was stunned and actually shaken. I called another local LBS and they were also shocked. They told me to come right down. He did a fit which took about 45 minutes. Adjusted my seat, cleats, handlebar angle and made sure I felt right. He charged me $30 and I did not even buy the bike there. Never spent a dime, never had nice conversation, never not made eye contact, never anything. He has the right attitude simply because he does. It had NOTHING to do with mine and it shouldn't. 

Every job has its stresses and an LBS is not special and should be treated as if it is. Sorry, but I will never, ever buy anything from that shop again and have not in a year. how hard is it to acknowledge someone and say "I'll be right with you". 99% of people realize there is a first come, first serve. There is no need to IGNORE anyone because they are "busy". 

For all the newbies...this type of LBS is the last place you would want to spend your money and not all have this attitude towards us.




uber-stupid said:


> Having worked in an LBS (as well as a woodworking supply store) I know that there is such a thing as good service, and bad service. And while I don't want to make excuses for bad service, workplaces all have their stresses, and I feel compelled to point out the following things:
> 
> -Just because you've just read everything in these forums, doesn't mean you're more knowledgeable than the guy behind the counter, or standing at the bike stand. These guys get paid... well, almost enough... for their services, and they deal with seriously fussy people all day long. And for many people, it's enough to deal with their job at work, they don't come home and geek out. Some of them do, and it's great, but not all of them. The forums, on the other hand, are populated with everyone from 16 year old punks to middle aged mechanical engineers, and there's a lot of information here. It's a highly specialized information resource, populated with people who are addicted to information. But that doesn't make the guy who fixes flats and brakes all day long is an ignorant idiot. Just because you have some miraculous bit of hyper-specialized information does NOT make you better or smarter than they are. It just means you've read something that they haven't.
> 
> -It's hard to explain to people who are on the other side of the counter sometimes, but the truth is that some of the most difficult customers are the ones who are really convinced that they know more than the LBS guys. There's nothing more dangerous than having a little information. Maybe you have a detail, or a piece of information that they don't, but other times you'll have a problem that is everyday for them, that they can handle with their eyes closed, that you've never seen or really had to think about.
> 
> I watched one bicycle owner rip a mechanic a new one because the bike wasn't working properly, and he was convinced that it was the shop's fault. Turns out he'd turned the barrel adjusters the wrong way on a ride, and when it didn't work, he kept turning them that wrong way, making things worse. A bicycle is a remarkably simple machine. And so is basic human error. There's nothing wrong with making a stupid mistake. There's a lot wrong with treating people like dirt over your own mistakes. If something isn't working, accept it, go in, and see if they can explain why. Don't go in with a bike in one hand, and blame in the other.
> 
> 
> -The eye-contact thing works on the road, not in the store. Trust me, they saw you. On a busy Saturday afternoon in June, they're probably trying to avoid eye contact. If it's too busy, and you have a real question, come back when they have time. At that particular moment, they are probably already trying to service a high strung high spender, a wild eyed mother of 2, who are both there and need flat tires fixed, some random cranky guy who doesn't understand the two different sides of his bicycle pump nozzle, and 3 detailed phone calls.
> 
> And while it sounds really impersonal to say so, they already have steam coming out of their ears, and the last thing that they probably want is one more person to bother them.
> 
> I'll add the caveat that sometimes, it's bad service. But there's a difference between crazy busy, and jerk-off attitude. Bad attitudes are easy to spot. But so is crazy busy. Any other day, if it's not busy, they'll make eye contact, and be relaxed enough to give a really thoughtful answer to your questions.
> 
> Everyone has needs, and that's entirely understandable. All I'm trying to say is, if they're clearly in the middle of something, wait your turn. Wait until you see them looking around, and then get their attention. And try not to take it personally if you're one of a dozen people in their face at that particular moment, and they're trying to keep things moving.
> 
> 
> -Once in a while, go in and buy an innertube, or a couple of power bars, or whatever. Generally, the shops are full of nice people, with good attitudes, but they still have a bottom line. But it's still a business relationship. Everyone knows the internet is cheaper for a lot of things. But Brick and Mortar stores run on money, and things like inner tubes are their bread and butter. Sure it costs a little more. But it's worth it to have a good LBS nearby. And it's definitely worth it to have a good relationship with them, and demonstrate your willingness to make sure that they're making money. If you really want to stand out, buy your stuff during the week, and strike up a conversation about something.
> 
> -Try not to come in at 5 minutes to close with a seriously involved problem. It happens, people are human, "Hey, I think we can just make it..." and traffic can slow people down. And I know, and I'm very well aware, that if the customer can get through the door, they have a right to service. The customer is always right. But chances are it's already been a long day for them, and they'd really rather be on their way home... or out riding. This falls partly under the guideline of being prepared the day before a ride. If you have serious shifting issues, and a race the next day, it's really not cool to walk in as they're ready to go home, and dump a pile of work on them with a right now deadline. If they're inordinately nice people, they might help you. But they'll also remember you.
> 
> -I don't want to make this a "You stupid f!cking customers!" rant. And I think if there's an undercurrent to all of this, it's this simple fact: You're here, online, for recreational purposes. They're at work because they have bills to pay, and I can promise you that inevitably, there are going to be difficult customers for them to deal with that day. The above stuff is a pile of some of my own baggage, and my personal rants. Try not to take any of them as personal insults... take them as an insight into the life of a retail clerk. We love our regular customers that understand that we have a job, and we have lives. And many of us love to hang out and talk shop, discuss bike issues, and be friendly... when we don't have a gang of savages hounding us around the store with flat tires and brain damage. Days like that, the closest thing we get to a break is to shoot a greased rubber band at one of the other mechanics when they're not looking.
> 
> 
> -If you want to get in their good graces... Towards the end of the day, if you're a guy, bring in a 6 pack of good beer. If you're a girl, beer works, and so do cookies. Trust me, they'll appreciate it.
> 
> If you want to have a friend at an LBS, (and if you're a newbie, trust me, you want a friend at an LBS) then be a friend. You wouldn't bother your best friend at his job when it's busy, try not to do the same to these poor guys. Stop by on Thursday afternoon, when there's no one else in the store, with a 6 pack of beer, explain to them that you're having a hard time with your bike, and that clearly these bottles are part of the problem. Beer is a complicated problem, requiring time, patience, and thorough consideration, and I'm sure they'll be willing to think it through, and talk shop with you.


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## DocEndurance

Great posts in this thread! I have one bit of experience to relate, and I hope it serves as a caution for any new riders on rural roadways. 

I've been riding for a little over two years in a rural foothills area where there is relatively little traffic but lots of climbing. Because there is so little traffic on my local routes, I am usually very aware of engine noise when a car comes up behind me. However, I have been surprised more than once by a second car following the first. The driver of the second car doesn't always see a rider making his or her way up the hill. I've learned to listen for that additional engine noise as the first car passes. 

Safe and happy riding!


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## Alfredo2081

Great tips. 
I actually love the "bike stand" advice ☺☺










Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


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## blackfrancois

if i could go back in time and give myself a few tips, i would say ...

1. ride upper-level vintage road, like your uncle.
2. put down the novel, and read sheldon brown.
3. never take your bike to the shop. do all the work yourself.
4. ride new wheels and build them on vintage hubs using sheldon's wheelbuilding page. it's easier than baking a soufflé.
5. don't crash.


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## Waxbytes

blackfrancois said:


> if i could go back in time and give myself a few tips, i would say ...
> 
> 1. ride upper-level vintage road, like your uncle.
> 2. put down the novel, and read sheldon brown.
> 3. never take your bike to the shop. do all the work yourself.
> 4. ride new wheels and build them on vintage hubs using sheldon's wheelbuilding page. it's easier than baking a soufflé.
> 5. don't crash.


Hmm... about #5, how?

I try really hard not to crash but sometimes it just happens.


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## MrBurchum

Don't wear a bathing suit and ride. You will regret the chafing.


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## Methodical

Here are my tips.

1. Vehicles always have the right of way, regardless of the law.
2. Get a professional bike fit; it's worth its weight in gold.
3. Stay hydrated in hot or cold weather.
4.Carry an ID, medical card, cash and credit card on every ride. If you have a medical condition get a Road ID band with the medical condition and emergency contact information.
5.Maintain a steady pace/cadence - no pedal, cruise, pedal, cruise. You'll wear yourself out faster.
6. Don't bike off more than you can chew.
7. Don't be afraid to ride in cold weather
8. Layer for winter riding.
9. Buy your fall/winter gear in the spring and your spring/summer gear in the winter - much cheaper.
10. The only way to learn how to work on your bike is to work on your bike.
11. Don't use earbuds.
12. If you sweat, get a nice bandana to keep sweat out of your eyes.
13. Carry a spare tube, patches, inflator, tire lever(s), small allen tools for the specific screws on your bike.
14. Get a rear light to be seen.


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## Henry Thomas

Good topic to discuss! Now a days riders are on the trails and roads, so hope these tips for beginner will be helpful to ride better and safer.


Protect your head.
2. Don't pedal in high gear for extended periods of time.
Use your gears.
Get a proper bike fit.
Get the right saddle.
Change position while riding.
Don't ride with headphones on.
Know the rules.
Keep your head up.
bicycle decals


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## Touch0Gray

Only two :

1.) ride 
2.) keep the rubber down


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## sandeepk

Nice Advice guys! Thank you


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## Methodical

sandeepk said:


> Nice Advice guys! Thank you


Tip. Don't always assume it's guys providing these tips.


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## Touch0Gray

Methodical said:


> Tip. Don't always assume it's guys providing these tips.


No reason girls can't be one of the guys too


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## vendycollins

My tip is to ride and to continue riding!
Live your life happily


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## Touch0Gray

ovachlena said:


> Out of the blue, my right knee started hurting after 40 miles or so. I mean, real pain. Saddle height didn't change, shoes, pedals, cleats, all the same.


Pain is pleasure leaving the body!


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## Lombard

Touch0Gray said:


> Pain is pleasure leaving the body!


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## fiziks

1. The 2 most important pieces of equipment are the helmet and the piece of grey matter it was designed to protect.
2. Ride your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. Any bike is better than no bike.
3. Ride like you are invisible. Never, ever, assume a motor vehicle driver sees you, even if they are looking at you (they are probably looking past you).
4. Wind is the enemy, not hills, particularly when you ride solo. It sucks to have to pedal just to go 11mph DOWN a hill you could normally coast down at 16-20mph. And that same wind might give you a boost, but it certainly won't push you back up the hill. If possible, try to start your rides into the wind, or so that you do your last leg, when you are most tired, with the wind at your back.


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## MichaelMarmarad

Len J said:


> 1.) Listen to MB1
> 
> 2.) Don't worry too much about your first bike....just get one that fits close, ride it for a year and then go to someone who knows how to fit you on a bike and buy another bike. It will be a completely different size. If you are paying attention to maintaining a flat back, your position will stretch out and change your sizing.
> 
> 3.) You only have 3 contact points with the bike, pedals/shoes, seat & Handlebars. Make sure you spare no expense in getting comfortable with these. I see way too many newbies who spend tons on a bike and go cheap on shoes/pedals and seat/shorts and can't ride distance due to comfort. Don't go cheap on the contact points.
> 
> 4.) You have to break your butt in as much as you have to break your seat in. Every time you ride longer, the first time your butt will hurt, the next time it will hurt less.
> 
> 5.) Work yourself up to longer distance, don't try to do it all at once. I try to add 30 minutes /week to my longest ride of the previous week.
> 
> 6.) Rest is as important as hard efforts.
> 
> 7.) The easiest way to gain endurance is to practice relaxation on a ride. The more relaxed you are, even at hard effort, the more blood flow and oxegen you are getting to your muscles. Tense will get you tired faster than relaxed.
> 
> 8.) Work on increasing your cadence. Do this by gradually increasing the cadence you ride at. It has to be soemthing you think about. Being able to ride at multiple cadences allows you to rest different things. To rest your cardio system spin slower, to rest your legs, spin faster.
> 
> 9.) A more frequent hour ride will maintain your fitness, better than an infrequent longer ride.
> 
> 10.) It's not (despite what this site might say) about the equipment.
> 
> Len


New here today. Have curbside find today Trek 3700. Road worthy after a little work. Like how the top bar slopes down. Easy for my 62 years to get on. It's pretty light and really stable. What should I lube it with? Used WD 40. Probably not the best but chain and gears were rusty. Front forks too. Michael


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## Lombard

MichaelMarmarad said:


> New here today. Have curbside find today Trek 3700. Road worthy after a little work. Like how the top bar slopes down. Easy for my 62 years to get on. It's pretty light and really stable. What should I lube it with? Used WD 40. Probably not the best but chain and gears were rusty. Front forks too. Michael


If your chain is rusty, you should replace it before it breaks and leaves you stranded. 

Check the tires for dry rot (cracking).


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## Xydadx3

This thread was a great read over a 2 day time period. I found it interesting how things have changed. Here's my 10¢:

1. Some of the earlier posts referred to mp3 players...who has those anymore? The same principles apply but the tech is better. We mostly use cell phones for music now (not flip phones!), and wireless headphones are the way to go. Someone mentioned wiring both audio channels to one side to keep one ear open at all times; this is automatic now. If you do choose to wear headphones, wear just one and wear it in the ear away from traffic. Keep in mind that your brain won't be able to triangulate the source of a sound without both ears. 

2. Radar! When did this become a thing? I didn't know about it until it was mentioned last year by someone in a facebook group who sold me their Varia for relatively cheap. I won't leave home without it now. It's helpful especially when riding on side roads near main roads where I can hear traffic noise but its not always from a car on the same road as me. Between the radar and a mirror on the dropbar my awareness is much higher while keeping my eyes forward.

3. If you're riding on the road use lights even during the day. Don't be obnoxious but your safety comes first; be seen!

4. As if it hasn't been mentioned enough, get professionally fitted at your LBS. I tried the google route to adjust things myself and ended up barely able to walk due to back pain for a few days, then I went in and had it adjusted by the expert. I took his recommendation for a new saddle (support your local bike shop!) and riding has been so much better ever since. Now I just need to take my own (and everyone else's) advice and get properly fitted on my new bike before I repeat the back thing.

5. Snacks! I didn't really think about it when I started riding but felt like I'd hit a brick wall around 25mi. A granola bar took care of that!

6. Not to discourage any previous advice but acclimate yourself before riding hard in heat; try ice water and room-temp water to see how your body responds. Ice water is good to cool you down; however, if you're sweating and its evaporating then room temperature water will require wasting less energy for your body to use. Its a trade off and completely dependent on your environment and body.

7. Check your tube, tire AND rim if you get a flat. I've had 2 flats in the last year, both of them were on the tubes that came with the used bike I bought. The second one was during the first group ride I ever participated in which made for some great first impressions. I had the old rear tube out and new tube back in really quickly then the more experienced guy asked if I had checked the rim...nope. So off came the tire again and sure enough some of the tape had shifted, which likely caused the rubbing and the flat. He shared some electrical tape with me and that repair has held for a couple hundred miles. Now I also carry some electrical tape.

8. Have a goal, but accept that it will take time to reach it. A group ride that splits in different paces is a good start. I managed to keep up with the A+ pace for about 10mi but had to accept I'm not there yet and rode with the B+ pace the rest of the ride. My goal is to be at the A+ pace next year!

9. The right 1/3 of a lane is your friend. It allows enough room for cars to pass you on the left as well as enough room for you to dodge right if needed (see awareness in #2)

10. It IS the bike...AND the rider. Buy the bike you're happy riding and can afford. The happier the rider is the better the bike will perform.


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## tlg

Xydadx3 said:


> 2. Radar! When did this become a thing?


 Oh just 7 years ago



> 3. If you're riding on the road use lights even during the day. Don't be obnoxious but your safety comes first; be seen!


That's dependent on your riding conditions. 



> 4. As if it hasn't been mentioned enough, get professionally fitted at your LBS.


Nope. Many (most) LBS's have no clue how to fit people. Go to 3 different LBS's and you'll get 3 different fits. Who's right?
There's no defined science on how best to fit you. Even among experienced quality fitterers they differ on their methodology. 
I'm not saying not to get a fit, but don't assume just going to your LBS and having some guy eyeball you on the bike has any meaningful benefit.

Don't assume everyone has a LOCAL bike shop. I'm 30min from the closest LBS. They suck. I wouldn't let them lube my chain. There isn't a shop within an hour of me I'd trust much beyond that.


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## Xydadx3

@tlg all good points. Using your best judgement for your situation is the best advice.


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## Cheshirebiker23

this thread is very helpful thanks everyone, really has come in handy for a beginner like me


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