# press fit clicking sounds



## shotojs78 (May 20, 2008)

hi, on my super six evo with sram red cannondale crankset, after just 1000 miles, there is a clicking on left side when I am stand and climb... someone has the same problem?? 

thanks


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Everyone has that problem. Pull the BB and lube it well.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Have a friend with an Evo with a creak, turned out it's the BB30 bottom bracket.

(Me. Threaded bottom bracket is still more reliable.)


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## NWS Alpine (Mar 16, 2012)

Could be BB but since it happens when you stand up to climb it could be your headset or pedals. Check everything and lube the headset. Put some wax on the pedal surfaces. Re-lube the pedal threads. If all else fails then pull the BB and secure it with loctite green 609 or 640 retaining compound. Torque to spec and lube the spindle where it touches the bearings.


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## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

What kind of tools do you use to pull and replace the bottom bracket with? Are the BB30 specific tools?


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## aengbretson (Sep 17, 2009)

To pull the crank requires an 8mm allen wrench and a BB pulling tool (same as you'd use for square taper/ISIS/octalink). Ideally you'd like to have something that threads into the spindle to create more surface area for the puller to press on, but in a pinch the BB tool will do just fine.

Now for getting the bearings out, yes you need a more specialized tool. It is basically a rod with a flange on the end that can be put inside of the BB against the inner side of the bearings and then you hit it with a hammer to pop out the bearings. Installing the bearings requires either a headset press with adapters for BB30 bearings or a BB30-specific tool that operates much in the same way but is a little bit smaller. You don't need to remove the bearings to do the lube job though. Just press the drive-side arm off of the spindle (be careful to keep the wave washer and shims), pull the non-drive side arm and spindle out, remove the shields, then pop out the seals on the bearings to inspect and re-lube. Put grease on every contact surface and re-assemble. Minimum torque for the crank arm bolt is printed on it, something around 35 N*m if I remember correctly (maximum is 41 or so). Make sure the wave washer is compressed but not flat to achieve the correct bearing preload.


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## texascyclist (May 10, 2005)

No BB tool required to pull the crank under normal circumstances, just the hex wrench (in my experience with two bikes w/BB30. Creaks cannot normally be located by sound on a ride. You must use deductive reasoning to guess where it is at.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

gus68 said:


> What kind of tools do you use to pull and replace the bottom bracket with? Are the BB30 specific tools?


My friend's Evo comes with the BB30 press tool, so if your LBS doesn't give you one, then go back to ask for one.

The problem the OP is describing here is exactly what my friend experienced with his Evo. At first we thought it was a headset, but turned out to be the bb30 creaking.

It's not limited to the Evo either. Read around the Specialized forum, you'll see other guys complaning of creaking with their press-fit bb too.


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## metoou2 (Mar 18, 2009)

NWS Alpine said:


> If all else fails then pull the BB and secure it with loctite green* 609 or 640* retaining compound.
> 
> 
> > From speaking with various bike company tech departments I have been told that Loctite 609 is to be used in alloy and steel shells. Loctite *641 * is to be used in carbon shells.
> ...


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## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

ok thanks


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