# Types of anti-seize?



## Guest (Nov 18, 2014)

I'll be assembling a bike in the near future, and I picked up some anti-seize for the BB threads. The threaded insert is alloy, and I had read that a zinc based anti-seize was preferable for aluminum threads. The Loctite brand was quite expensive, so I found this brand, JET-LUBE Anti Seize Compound, Paste, 16 oz. - G7612297 at Zoro . Through an ordering snafu, I also have a bottle of this, JET-LUBE Anti Seize Compound, Marine Grade, 8 Oz. - G4813645 at Zoro . How does zinc dust compare to zinc oxide as an ingredient?

Oh, I already had some Loctite Silver, but thought it wouldn't do. Ingredients aren't specified.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

You should be just fine.

The only time to worry about is with titanium. You have to use the copper-colored stuff for that.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

McMaster-Carr


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

brucew said:


> You should be just fine.
> 
> The only time to worry about is with titanium. You have to use the copper-colored stuff for that.


Second that. It should work just fine OP.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

For any threaded assembly on a bicycle you can use either the Park Tool Anti-seize compound or the Finish Line Assembly anti-seize product and you will be fine. I believe you can by both at Amazon. For most bicycle applications true anti-seize is overkill, and a good quality grease will do the job just fine.


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## alaris (Nov 8, 2008)

brucew said:


> The only time to worry about is with titanium. You have to use the copper-colored stuff for that.


Why is that?


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

It isn't. The metals in various anti-seize compounds are there to functions high temp lubes once the organic grease is gone. That shouldn't happen on a bicycle. For high temp applications involving Titanium, a non-metallic formulation with graphite and another solid state lube (e.g. calcium fluoride) is typically recommended.

Here's a good general reference for various types of anti-seize and their intended applications from Henkel.

The Park Tool AS is formulated with graphite and aluminum, Finish Line is formulated with graphite and copper. Both are recommended for steel, aluminum, and titanium.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Why is everyone getting all worked up about which kind of anti-seize to use? It's aluminum, right? 



GREASE. Any kind. Done.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> Why is everyone getting all worked up about which kind of anti-seize to use? It's aluminum, right?
> 
> 
> 
> GREASE. Any kind. Done.


Dunno. I happen to use anti-seize here and there, because I use anti-seize on my car, mainly to prevent the wheel hub face seizing to the brake rotor.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

cxwrench said:


> Why is everyone getting all worked up about which kind of anti-seize to use? It's aluminum, right?


I enjoy having silver marks on my fingertips... throwback to my preschool days?


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> Why is everyone getting all worked up about which kind of anti-seize to use?


Zinc corrodes preferentially to aluminum parts like alloy nipples, crank bolts, chain ring bolts, etc. 

Aluminum does not.

Usually plain grease is enough to keep salt water out and prevent that, although as long as you're going through the trouble of using anti-seize (it makes a mess on your hands if you don't wear disposable nitrile or latex gloves) you might as well use zinc-based and get the full benefit.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> GREASE. Any kind. Done.


Absolutely right. I've had a Ti bike since 1998, put 150,000 miles on it with various aluminum, steel, and Ti bolts attached. Only ever used grease and have NEVER had an issue with any threaded parts. If you intend to not maintain your bike over many years then I suppose anti seize would be a better choice than grease - it probably will hold up longer. Otherwise grease is more than OK.


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## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> Why is everyone getting all worked up about which kind of anti-seize to use? It's aluminum, right?
> 
> 
> 
> GREASE. Any kind. Done.


Stop messing up Finish Line and Park Tool marketing hype with common sense.

The only time I have used anti seize on an Al part is with the Cannondale OPI stems. For what ever reason, people found using this instead of grease keeps the stem quieter. The first version had a bit of creak here and there under load.


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

Kerry Irons said:


> Absolutely right. I've had a Ti bike since 1998, put 150,000 miles on it with various aluminum, steel, and Ti bolts attached. Only ever used grease and have NEVER had an issue with any threaded parts. If you intend to not maintain your bike over many years then I suppose anti seize would be a better choice than grease - it probably will hold up longer. Otherwise grease is more than OK.


I agree in general with this. There is no penalty to using anti-seize, though, and for alu threads meeting steel threads, zinc dust anti-seize is the long term correct choice. 

If you are a DIY type, and wrench on more vehicles than bikes, this can be helpful info. I also work on motorcycles, where there are lots of steel bolts threaded into alu engine castings. Because of elevated engine temps, the grease does not last very long in those environments. 

Also on bikes, in places with lots of road spray exposure (brakes, BB, pedals, etc) the grease can get washed out, and then corrosion starts very quickly. If you maintain multiple bikes for friends and family members, not all may see the mileage needed to maintain them "regularly". Our tandem is ridden maybe 15 times a year. So when wrenching on them I like to use anti-seize, as I may not touch it again for many years.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

Z'mer said:


> If you are a DIY type, and wrench on more vehicles than bikes, this can be helpful info. I also work on motorcycles, where there are lots of steel bolts threaded into alu engine castings. Because of elevated engine temps, the grease does not last very long in those environments.


If you're dealing with or concerned about washout, and want a better solution than GP grease (which should hold if it's a decent grease), then try a marine grade anti-seize. Those are made to withstand and endure saltwater marine environments, and are designed for aluminum-stainless mating (very common in marine systems). It's broadly available at any marine dealer, or online. If you want to go for the extreme (and expensive) stuff, look for Tef-Gel.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

I use nickel antiseize on almost every bolt. Salt tends to get into threads no matter how well you rinse the bike. The antiseize is harder to wash out.


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