# Stripping paint from steel frame



## d64 (Aug 6, 2007)

I have an older steel road bike frame I want to repaint. There's a lot of information on the web on how to get the old paint off (chemical, bead blasting, etc). What I tried was buying one of these wheels:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-9099-BS-Large-Paint-Stripper/dp/B00004Z4DV

The wheel is not metal but some pretty sturdy synthetic material. I attached it to a 600W drill and had a try. It indeed does get both parts of the paint off pretty easily. The metal surface underneath seems even, but is of course covered in countless very thin scratches in the direction where the wheel was spinning. Also I noticed the frame becomes warm to touch when using the wheel.

The question is, is this a safe way to get rid of the paint? There's no denying that the metal being scratched means a tiny amount, at least, is being eaten away. If the metal is dangerously gouged, should I be able to notice that by running my finger along the surface?


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## tcruse11 (Jun 9, 2006)

You'll be fine. I like to use an aircraft paint stripper first then follow it up with a steel wheel. Just be sure you prime it an all that jazz.


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## d64 (Aug 6, 2007)

tcruse11 said:


> You'll be fine. I like to use an aircraft paint stripper first then follow it up with a steel wheel. Just be sure you prime it an all that jazz.


With priming, you mean that when I get to the new paint part, I should do a primer coat first? I was planning to do that, of course. I guess I will also sand the frame with some fine paper before painting.


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## PeanutButterBreath (Dec 4, 2005)

d64 said:


> With priming, you mean that when I get to the new paint part, I should do a primer coat first? I was planning to do that, of course. I guess I will also sand the frame with some fine paper before painting.


I would use a chemical stripper and then follow up with the wheel as necessary. With stripper the paint will bubble and fall right off. You'll save a lot of time (and some metal).


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

for a rattle can job, old paint makes a great primer basecoat as long as it's sanded smooth


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## rellimreeb (Jul 29, 2007)

FatTireFred said:


> for a rattle can job, old paint makes a great primer basecoat as long as it's sanded smooth


 And if you do use a rattle can, place the cans in a bucket of warm to hot (faucet hot, not boiling) water for 10 or so minutes before you spray. The heat cranks up the pressure in the can and lowers the viscosity a bit. The paint will spray on real nice.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

millerinva said:


> And if you do use a rattle can, place the cans in a bucket of warm to hot (faucet hot, not boiling) water for 10 or so minutes before you spray. The heat cranks up the pressure in the can and lowers the viscosity a bit. The paint will spray on real nice.



and use car touch-up paint for better durability over krylon from the hardware store... more color choices too... and those cheap snap on can attachments are helpful


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## d64 (Aug 6, 2007)

Thanks for all the painting suggestions. I'll take the frame to a pro for the painting part, though, but I figured I could save some money by doing the removal myself.


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## 99trek5200 (Jan 26, 2007)

The aircraft paint stripper (chemical) is available from any automotive paint supply store.

You want to prime right after you strip, rinse and dry the frame. You will be amazed how fast "flash" rust forms on bare steel. Rust will form through rattle can primer fairly fast too as it does not "seal" out moisture. To help reduce the chance of rust I would go for a Rustolem primer. You must be a little more careful as it does not dry as fast as Krylon and can tend to run.


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