# Why is this happening?



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

Posted in components as well.

So I just got a new set of Campagnolo Neutron Ultra wheels and man are they nice. I also run Super Record 11 for a group. So today was my third ride on the wheels. I have had zero issues with the group-set for 4,000 miles. First two rides totaled 94 miles on the wheels and today was a 32 mile climbing day. 

What happens is when I stop pedaling it seems like the cassette and chain want to continue for a split second. Makes a gong type noise. Almost like the free wheel has a split second of not being free. The chain gets a little slack on top and the rear derailleur kinda jumps. It wasn't doing this prior to the new wheels. I'm wondering if this could be the rear hub is not adjusted correctly or just needs to brake in? Anyone out there had this type of thing happen? Hope I explained it correctly. Thanks in advance for the replies.


----------



## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

Sounds like the seals on the freehub bearings might be tight. Some bearing seals need a litlte time loosen up, which will only happen in this case when coasting or peddling backwards. How tight the skewer is, shouldn't have any bearing (hah hah) on this, based on the design ofthe freehub.


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

RHankey said:


> Sounds like the seals on the freehub bearings might be tight. Some bearing seals need a litlte time loosen up, which will only happen in this case when coasting or peddling backwards. How tight the skewer is, shouldn't have any bearing (hah hah) on this, based on the design ofthe freehub.


Thank you so much for the reply. I appreciate it very much.


----------



## asdasd44 (Apr 24, 2007)

With the bike just sitting there, rotate the cranks backwards slowly. Does the chain go slack? If yes, then you've got something going on with the hub. Could be tight seals as said above, I would hope that wheels like that would be properly adjusted from the factory.


----------



## jazclrint (Dec 29, 2009)

I'd imagine it would pedal backwards instead of going slack, wouldn't it?


----------



## mriddle (Nov 16, 2005)

*check if the freehub body is tight*

Not sure if you have tools or are comfortable working on the hub?

Last year I purchased a set of Shamal Ultras and initially had a similiar situation. The freehub body was not fully tight on the hub. By the time I figured out what was happening I had to replace the round wire spring/clip (FH-RE114) that holds the 3 pawls on the freehub. 

I do know that it sucks having an issue with a brand new set of wheels. For what it's worth, I've owned a set of the Neutron Ultras since 2007 and they are wonderful.

Good luck.


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

jazclrint said:


> I'd imagine it would pedal backwards instead of going slack, wouldn't it?


It pedals backwards fine but if you give it a good spin it does the slipping thing


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

mriddle said:


> Not sure if you have tools or are comfortable working on the hub?
> 
> Last year I purchased a set of Shamal Ultras and initially had a similiar situation. The freehub body was not fully tight on the hub. By the time I figured out what was happening I had to replace the round wire spring/clip (FH-RE114) that holds the 3 pawls on the freehub.
> 
> ...


Never worked on one but I'm willing to try. Got any idea how the procedure goes for an amateur?


----------



## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

willieboy said:


> Never worked on one but I'm willing to try. Got any idea how the procedure goes for an amateur?


At the minimum, do the following. See if you can "rattle" the rear wheel sideways as it is mounted on the bike. If you detect some play, take the wheel off, take the skewer off, and tighten the hub. All you need, I think, is a #7 or #8 Allen key on the drive-side of the center of the hub. 

Some wheels ship with the hub slightly loose. 

Typing this, I am not sure if it has to do with the problem you are having, but this is a something that you should be checked anyway. Might as well, right?


----------



## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

orange_julius said:


> At the minimum, do the following. See if you can "rattle" the rear wheel sideways as it is mounted on the bike. If you detect some play, take the wheel off, take the skewer off, and tighten the hub. All you need, I think, is a #7 or #8 Allen key on the drive-side of the center of the hub.
> 
> Some wheels ship with the hub slightly loose.
> 
> Typing this, I am not sure if it has to do with the problem you are having, but this is a something that you should be checked anyway. Might as well, right?


Sorry, but this advice is completely wrong. You do not "tighten a hub" this way.

Neutrons have the same hub internals as all other campy hubs in the centaur-record line 2000-2009.

I received a brand new set of Ultras in fall 2010 with too much bearing play and had to adjust.

OP does not appear to have this problem, but definitely something wrong. Maybe too tight. Simple playing with the hub with the wheel off the bike will determine this.

If you have the tools and are comfortable using them, then search out instructions for working on these hubs. Nothing tricky except that the DS nut that retains the freehub is reverse threaded. Unless actually replacing the FH you don't need to touch this. The hub can be diassembled at the NDS and the axle complete with FH removed.

If it's just bearings too tight, the adjustment at the NDS is simple and may be all that's needed. Don't ride until fixed.


----------



## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Here's the hub










bearing adjustment is via loosening the small lockscrew on part HB-NE019 and turning to adjust preload.
wheel should spin freely but without any play, which is most easily felt at the rim. It can be done with the wheel on the bike.


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

bikerjulio said:


> Here's the hub
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for this. So to be clear, I am trying to adjust this HB-NE019 loser so the free hub doesn't "catch" under freewheel? Sorry if my terminology isn't correct. Thanks to everyone that has assisted. Very kind.


----------



## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

We don't really know exactly what your problem is & it's very hard to diagnose online.

With the wheel off and skewer removed you should be able to turn the axle freely and the bearings should feel smooth. You should apply a little axial pressure while doing this as well. Do both sides. If you detect tightness or roughness in the bearings, then that may be your problem, and adjusting the preload should help. 

The other thing to do, maybe do it first, is simply spin the cassette backwards. It should keep moving for a rev or so after a good flick. Possibly there is tightness in the freehub assembly.

You can do these simple things without toughing the hub with a wrench. You may need to pursue it as a warranty issue.

Suggest you report back after doing this.


----------



## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

bikerjulio said:


> We don't really know exactly what your problem is & it's very hard to diagnose online.
> 
> With the wheel off and skewer removed you should be able to turn the axle freely and the bearings should feel smooth. You should apply a little axial pressure while doing this as well. Do both sides. If you detect tightness or roughness in the bearings, then that may be your problem, and adjusting the preload should help.
> 
> ...


Exact and perfect suggestions. My first thought is with a tight seal on the freewheel. Try spinning it off the bike and see if it stops abruptly after a few rotations or if it stops slowly spinning to a halt. I had a similar issue with my Mavic Crossmax and was a tight new free hub. No much you can do about a tight seal; except ride some more 
My Shamals did not do this but every wheel is slightly different from run to run but do keep us posted.


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

I'm out of town until Monday night and when I get back I will post my findings. I appreciate all the input


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

mriddle said:


> Not sure if you have tools or are comfortable working on the hub?
> 
> Last year I purchased a set of Shamal Ultras and initially had a similiar situation. The freehub body was not fully tight on the hub. By the time I figured out what was happening I had to replace the round wire spring/clip (FH-RE114) that holds the 3 pawls on the freehub.
> 
> ...


Update, this morning I stopped by one of my LBS to talk to the Campy expert. He's been riding and working on Campy for over twenty years. He knew the problem in ten seconds. It's the spring in the free hub. He said he will order it and have the wheel back to me by the end of the week with everything adjusted correctly as well. I just wasn't comfortable trying to repair this problem myself. Had to give it to the expert. 

Thanks for all the replies and help. Really appreciate it


----------



## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Campagnolo hubs are super easy to fix, the hardest part is to put the freehub body back in place and that its done using a small string to compress the pawls (if you dont have the right tool to do it), put it in, release the string, set the cones and done.


----------



## droptarotter (Nov 22, 2004)

ultraman6970 said:


> Campagnolo hubs are super easy to fix, the hardest part is to put the freehub body back in place and that its done using a small string to compress the pawls (if you dont have the right tool to do it), put it in, release the string, set the cones and done.


Dental floss works great for this.

Cheers


----------



## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

With the new miche hubs you don't need the floss technique at all, is just put the freehub body in place (it wont fit) then twist it a tiny bit and fits right in.


----------



## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

Got the wheel back. The spring in the hub was slightly bent  Replaced and it's good as new. I want to thank everyone for the assistance an answers to my original question. Once again, the forum came to the rescue


----------

