# Entry level rider.



## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Hey all. I'm new to the forum. My plan is to get into riding. Nothing too serious, mainly for cardio reasons, but would like to build for some longer rides occasionally. I'm looking at a used Cannondale Ironman 56cm 800 CAAD 5 Men's Triathlon bike with Cateye computer. Like new condition. Recently tuned up with new brakes and tires. Guy wants $550 for it. Is it worth that? Thanks in advance


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## jaske5 (Feb 12, 2014)

Is 56cm the right size for you?


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Yes. I was measured on Friday. I've been reading and found that I may need a road bike more so than a Tri bike since I will be riding in hilly areas. Also found a Trek 1.2 for $550 with some Shamano upgraded components and Fsa rd200 wheels.


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

JBeezy said:


> Yes. I was measured on Friday. I've been reading and found that I may need a road bike more so than a Tri bike since I will be riding in hilly areas. Also found a Trek 1.2 for $550 with some Shamano upgraded components and Fsa rd200 wheels.


That's not a bad deal if it fits you well..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> Yes. I was measured on Friday. *I've been reading and found that I may need a road bike more so than a Tri bike since I will be riding in hilly areas.* Also found a Trek 1.2 for $550 with some Shamano upgraded components and Fsa rd200 wheels.


Hilly areas or not, Tri/ TT bikes are only good choices for those partaking in those events. Your OP doesn't indicate an interest in either, so a road bike is the clear choice. 

Be careful of being "measured". If you mean someone put you on a 56CM and told you it was your size, they're missing the fundamental that there are no standards for determining frame size, so brand A's 56 may be brand B's 54, or 58. Better to determine your reach and drop requirements and find a bike close to those numbers.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I went to my local bike shop and he measured me and talk size in comparison to me purchasing a Trek. He said between a 56-58 I'd be good. I'm approx 5'11" with a 32" inseam, 228 lbs. I'm leaning more towards the trek I mentioned above.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> I went to my local bike shop and he measured me and talk size in comparison to me purchasing a Trek. He said between a 56-58 I'd be good. I'm approx 5'11" with a 32" inseam, 228 lbs. I'm leaning more towards the trek I mentioned above.


Gotcha. Trek models can vary in sizing as well, but as long as you stay with the same geo, that's a good baseline to use.

I suggest asking the seller to bring the bike to that LBS and have it assessed mechanically and for sizing. Since used bike prices vary by region, they may be able to ballpark street value as well.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> Gotcha. Trek models can vary in sizing as well, but as long as you stay with the same geo, that's a good baseline to use.
> 
> I suggest asking the seller to bring the bike to that LBS and have it assessed mechanically and for sizing. Since used bike prices vary by region, they may be able to ballpark street value as well.


He is getting new wheels installed This coming weekend and I plan on meeting him. The seller says the bike has been tuned up and ready to roll. What are some of things I need to look for? I'm guessing I need to ride it and shift thru the gears


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> He is getting new wheels installed This coming weekend and I plan on meeting him. The seller says the bike has been tuned up and ready to roll. What are some of things I need to look for? I'm guessing I need to ride it and shift thru the gears.


Things to check for are:

- headset (the bars can be turned left/ right with no binding or play)
- crankset (rotates with no binding/ play or noise)
- wheel hubs (rotate smoothly w/ no binding/ play)
- rims - spin to check that they're relatively true
- tires - cracks evident? (if they're original, I'd count on replacing them, along w/ tubes and rim strips).

During your test ride, check for fit (are you comfortable, stretched out, cramped?). Check for functional braking/ shifting, steering and note any noises.

Problems in one or more of these areas aren't necessarily deal breakers, but do indicate that some service will be required - meaning more financial outlay for you, post-purchase. Consider that when making an offer.

If you think the bike fits and you're interested in it, I would recommend asking the seller to bring it to a reputable LBS to be assessed for mechanical condition as well as fit. While there, you could also ask them for a ballpark estimate of the bikes value.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Chain should be measured and teeth on the chainrings and cassette cogs as well as the chain itself assessed for economic life. I got a Madone 4.5 really cheap for my wife knowing it needed chainrings, cassette, chain, saddle, re-tape and all new cables. This all done at the LBS could make a bike a non starter value wise.

I am glad someone unknowing of how to assess the state of usable serviceability did not pay his asking price is all I can say.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks guys for your replys. I will keep all of these things in mind. I'm very excited about getting in the sport. 

Does shoes and pedals have to be expensive? What's the best bang for the buck? How about padded shorts or seats? He said he's keeping the pedals because they match his shoes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> Thanks guys for your replys. I will keep all of these things in mind. I'm very excited about getting in the sport.
> 
> Does shoes and pedals have to be expensive? What's the best bang for the buck? How about padded shorts or seats? He said he's keeping the pedals because they match his shoes.


Don't feel compelled to go clipless from the get-go. Eventually, once you get acclimated to the bike and road riding, then yes, but clips and straps or even platforms will be ok for awhile.

To answer your question, 'expensive' is a relative term. What you want to look for is a shoe/ pedal combo that suites your purposes and style of riding. 

Any amount of walking would (IMO) dictate a shoe with a recessed cleat, but no matter what type you choose, you want a well designed footbed and stiff sole, so don't cheap out on shoes. Pedals are relatively inexpensive.

Talk to your LBS about some options, and buy your shoes there, not online. You want to try before you buy. 

You'll want padded shorts, but not a padded seat. Keep the one that comes with the bike for a bit, and keep in mind that your position on a bike dictates comfort, so opt for a standard fitting - maybe ~$50.

I'll reiterate that you should bring any bike under consideration to your LBS for sizing/ mechanical assessment. There may be a nominal charge for this, but it'll be cheaper than making a mistake buying a trouble-prone or ill fitting bike.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

What I may do is go to Atlanta Saturday where is he having the wheels put on and have the guy check it out there. If all is good, then I'll really consider buying. Thanks again


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> What I may do is go to Atlanta Saturday where is he having the wheels put on and have the guy check it out there. If all is good, then I'll really consider buying. Thanks again


Sounds like a (good) plan. Let us know how it goes...


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> What I may do is go to Atlanta Saturday where is he having the wheels put on and have the guy check it out there. If all is good, then I'll really consider buying. Thanks again


Why new wheels? That doesn't make sense? You know, you can get a new 1.2 for not much more than that. And maybe get a discount on bibs, shoes, and your accessories... It might come out close to the same and you have a new bike. That option would let you shop around.... I have a Cannondale CAAD 8 that's similar to that Trek and I love that bike. It sounds like you got a decent vibe from the LBS that measured you? Talk to them about a bike?


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JBeezy said:


> Does shoes and pedals have to be expensive? What's the best bang for the buck? How about padded shorts or seats?


The best bang for your buck if you're starting out, and I hate to say it because it shuts out LBS purchases, is very good condition slightly used stuff on ebay OR discount store like backcountry.com. The ebay way is you buy it you keep it, but with backcountry you can ship back the stuff on sale that doesn't fit out of the box. 

I started with Shimano R087 shoes (now R088?), the model number isn't really important, but a shoe in that price range ($90-110) has served me well for a year or two and then I got upgrade fever. PJ is right, you can't walk in these things for any appreciable distance it's like wearing wooden clogs. 

Soft, padded, sofa like soggy seats end up putting pressure on your soft tissue. This is something people often get wrong at the expense of comfort:
View attachment 308392


I'm similar to your proportions at 6' and just under that weight and I've had luck with Hincapie bibs which I find cut generously (aka american sizing). Keep in mind bibs that are too loose will chafe under the motion of 1,000's of pedal strokes so make sure your clothing is tight. You won't be penalized for a loose shirt up top if you're not comfortable going full sausage just yet. 

One nod toward buying from an LBS: free maintenance. If you need gears adjusted....that's $30 in my NYC area... and probably $20 in yours. Anything on the bike will cost money to adjust, fix, move, touch, look at. This can add up quickly! Consider that you may spend $100+ in maintenance.

If the spread is $200 or so, I would definitely go with a new bike from the LBS. Newer shifters, newer components, free support/advice, etc..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

PBL450 said:


> Why new wheels? That doesn't make sense?


Oftentimes, sellers prep used bikes by building them with spare parts (called 'upgrades'). Doesn't necessarily mean they're bad deals, but points up the need for LBS's to assess them.



9W9W said:


> If the spread is $200 or so, I would definitely go with a new bike from the LBS. Newer shifters, newer components, free support/advice, etc..


Absolutely....


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

I started on a Trek 1.2. A 2009 model I purchased in 2010. Paid $700 for it. Still have it for my backup bike. The sizes do vary a lot. I am 6'-0" and was sized out by one guy on a 56 which they did not have in stock. He sent me to another one of their stores across town and the guy there sized me on a 58. Which I bought. It had 175mm cranks and 44 cm handle bars. I rode it for three years. I had to tinker with it a lot to get comfortable, but I was a beginner and just assumed that was part of the deal. 2 years ago, I upgraded to a Bianchi Infinito. When I was sized for that one I ended up on a 55 with 172.5mm cranks and 42 mm bars. Different dealer in another town. It fits me a whole lot better and is a lot more comfortable to ride for long distances. When you put the two bikes side by side the Bianchi is definitely slightly smaller. As for shoes, I rode almost a whole year with platform pedals before I decided to switch to clipless pedals. They take a little time to get used to. I recommend platforms for beginners until they get used to riding.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Well he said he bent a wheel this weekend after we talked and worked out a deal at his local store on a new set. He's selling to buy a Tri bike. 

I talked with my LBS and they quoted me a 1.2 for $998 out the door. Then I thought it would be better to buy a good used bike for 1/2 the cost. 

Not looking forward to wearing the tight bottoms, but I could put a set of shorts over them I suppose.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

PJ352 said:


> Oftentimes, sellers prep used bikes by building them with spare parts (called 'upgrades'). Doesn't necessarily mean they're bad deals, but points up the need for LBS's to assess them.
> 
> 
> Absolutely....


Oh! Thanks PJ, it's a reseller kind of thing, not buying someone's bike... I bought bikes off CL from some dude that wasn't using them... I see folks doing this, the reseller thing, on CL all the time. And ABSOLUTELY raises greater need to have it LBS checked out! Great point!


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> Well he said he bent a wheel this weekend after we talked and worked out a deal at his local store on a new set. He's selling to buy a Tri bike.
> 
> I talked with my LBS and they quoted me a 1.2 for $998 out the door. Then I thought it would be better to buy a good used bike for 1/2 the cost.
> 
> Not looking forward to wearing the tight bottoms, but I could put a set of shorts over them I suppose.


I'm sorry to say this... But he bent a wheel? For 1K you get a perfect bike you can ride and ride until you get the bug. I'm no expert, but a bent wheel is a crash most likely? This is worrisome. 

I started riding a year and a half ago and went clipless from the get. It's a learning curve, nothing wrong with platforms, but you get it pretty quick. You just have to pay attention to it. Start-up cost is pretty frightening in cycling, I know, but it doesn't stay that way.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

What are platform shoes that I keep seeing mentioned?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

PBL450 said:


> I'm sorry to say this... But he bent a wheel? For 1K you get a perfect bike you can ride and ride until you get the bug. I'm no expert, but a bent wheel is a crash most likely? *This is worrisome.
> *


I agree.

OP, ask questions about how the wheel got damaged... and is there any other requisite damage (frame? fork?).

Definitely have this bike checked over before committing to the purchase.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> What are platform shoes that I keep seeing mentioned?


Platform pedals, not shoes. They're just flat pedals. You can wear sneakers or (preferably) most any footwear with a semi-rigid sole.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

PJ352 said:


> I agree.
> 
> OP, ask questions about how the wheel got damaged... and is there any other requisite damage (frame? fork?).
> 
> Definitely have this bike checked over before committing to the purchase.


Wheels are pretty tough OP. I can think of ways that it could be bent without other damage... But the number of scenarios is dwarfed by the number of scenarios with additional damage. Bent wheel and selling the bike? No way. And stay away from a tri bike if you want to road bike. The handling is very different. Shop around some, it will be fun. But buying close to home will make having a relationship with your LBS convenient over time.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Well the wheel wasn't bent originally. I was going to check it out this past weekend but I had to go out of town. He advised he was going on a trip this past weekend as well. He asked if I wanted him to leave it in town with a friend so I could check it out on sunday when I got back. All was good. He text me and said they were on the way to the beach and the bike was on the back of the car on the bike carrier. His father in law ran over a 18 wheeler tread and it slapped the wheel bending it. It's believe able because he didn't have to mention that as I won't get to see the bike til Sunday as we planned. He asked if I wanted to purchase as is and get a new wheel for a reduced price or he buy the new wheels and split the difference with me and throw in the old wheel rear wheel as well. Who knows to be honest.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

"Who knows" sums it up pretty well. 

All I can say is go with your gut on this. If it's worth saving around $200, go for it, but I'd definitely have it checked over before committing, then get fitted.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> "Who knows" sums it up pretty well.
> 
> All I can say is go with your gut on this. If it's worth saving around $200, go for it, but I'd definitely have it checked over before committing, then get fitted.


Are you saying I can find a new 1.2 for $700 - $750 or so? I was looking at it as a $400 savings. Lead me in the right direction please.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> Are you saying I can find a new 1.2 for $700 - $750 or so? I was looking at it as a $400 savings. Lead me in the right direction please.


I think you misread my post a bit. 

I wasn't suggesting you could get a new 1.2 for $700-$750 (but if you find a closeout, you may). More, I was offering that you go with your gut believing the sellers story... or not. 

But if you do go with this bike, have it checked over_ before _you buy. If there's a problem with the frame, etc., let it be the sellers problem, not yours.

Remember too, with used (versus new bikes) the savings gap closes because (one example) fittings aren't included in the price. If the bike needs anything done mechanically (tuneups, parts worn/ in need of replacement) the gap narrows further.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> I think you misread my post a bit.
> 
> I wasn't suggesting you could get a new 1.2 for $700-$750 (but if you find a closeout, you may). More, I was offering that you go with your gut believing the sellers story... or not.
> 
> ...


Gotcha!!


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

What about a 2013 Raleigh Revino 2013 model for $500, list price or a Felt F85?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> What about a 2013 Raleigh Revino 2013 model for $500, list price or a Felt F85?


Both bikes are from quality manufacturers. 

If sold by a private seller (versus LBS), the same advice would apply. Test ride, check the bikes over, but still have a LBS assess them mechanically and for fit. 

They'll also be able to ballpark the bikes value based on overall condition and your region.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

These 2 I mentioned are a little closer and the Felt is stated to be like new


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> These 2 I mentioned are a little closer and the Felt is stated to be like new.


Sounds promising. Check them out and let us know what you think.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Will try to make contact with the seller. Will push for him to meet me at a LBS to have the bike looked over.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> Will try to make contact with the seller. Will push for him to meet me at a LBS to have the bike looked over.


Perfect! :thumbsup:


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

This is the listing here. What you all think?

http://bham.craigslist.org/bik/5175701194.html


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> This is the listing here. What you all think?
> 
> FELT F85 Road Bike $589


Looks like a 2011. If it really is in excellent condition, his price is in the ballpark, but there's room to negotiate. 

2011 Felt F85 - New and Used Bike Value

Check the bike over and test ride it. If, after that you're still interested ask to bring it to your LBS.


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## jaske5 (Feb 12, 2014)

I currently ride a 2013 trek 1.2. I bought it at my LBS on close out at the end of the year for just under $700.00. The deals are out there. My LBS right now is starting to discount to get ready for the 2016 models. If you are not in a huge hurry than patience will pay off big time. Too bad you not in a 52cm. Mine will be for sale soon. Upgrading in a couple weeks.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> Looks like a 2011. If it really is in excellent condition, his price is in the ballpark, but there's room to negotiate.
> 
> 2011 Felt F85 - New and Used Bike Value
> 
> Check the bike over and test ride it. If, after that you're still interested ask to bring it to your LBS.


He said $550 is bottom dollar and has the matching helmet. He has plenty other interest as well


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> He said $550 is bottom dollar and has the matching helmet. He has plenty other interest as well.


He can _say_ he has other interest (and he may), but don't let that pressure you. Follow your plan.

As to price, IF it's in the condition he says, IMO it's not a bad deal.

As to the helmet, I suggest you pass. You have no idea of its history, and it's gonna be your head you're protecting. Get a new helmet.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JB (original poster),
In cycling there's a lot of trickle down technology. What I mean by that is in 2011 there was the best, good and entry level. In 2012 there's a new best, last years best is now good, and last years good is this years entry level. You're going to get a lot more from a 2014/2015 105 tech, than 2011 105 tech...which is pretty much 2015 entry level tech at this point. 

Again, you will spend money at the LBS... and it will add up quick. if you buy the bike from the LBS these services will be free. Keep this in mind when comparing bikes. just to adjust gears and brakes tack on $50 to the price of the new bike... summer is ending, are you sure you can't call around and get a better price on a 1.2? Do you have many dealers within your vicinity?

I'm all for saving money (and I do a lot of my purchases via ebay and CL) but I just want you to be aware of service/adj costs. I went the used bike route myself, but did end up paying more than I thought I would due to all the post purchase dings here and there. If this cuts into your savings you may have used bike buyers remorse.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Well there is only one bike store here where I live. I'm a little tight on extra cash with kids. Don't want to use a credit card at all. I'm mechanically enclined, but just how hard can it be to adjust these bikes? Just curious? Cars is my specialty. As I stated earlier, I will not be competing in any competition, just want to ride for cardio to maintain my health, but don't want to ride a Walmart special either. Just want something that should last


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

Just to say it appear you have a decent CL selection in Bama.. But you do have a couple places with Specialized closeouts in the 2015 Allez and Sport models in the 700 to 800 range (not sure on your size). You also have a 2015 Cannondale Cadd8 (though sora) in that same range between Cahaba cycle and Bike Link. Also over at Bob's bikes they appear to have few entry level Giant Defy 5 2015 new for $640... 

Those newer bikes would come with a basic fit at least and probably some period of tune ups. 

The point being yes getting a used better bike is always an option but you could also get setup right with a closeout bike from the LBS. Plus who knows maybe asking for a few dollars off might even work..


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I'm heading to bham now. I may stop in Cahaba cycles on my way

How good are the Giant bikes? I'm stopping by Bob's in a few minutes. May just buy a Giant


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

a new Giant Defy for $640 sounds promising.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

JBeezy said:


> I'm heading to bham now. I may stop in Cahaba cycles on my way
> 
> How good are the Giant bikes? I'm stopping by Bob's in a few minutes. May just buy a Giant


All of the major brands have good intro bikes, and their frames are generally about equal in quality. What sets them apart are going to be fit (as their geometries are slightly different), group set, and price. 

Major brands: Felt, Giant, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Fuji, Jamis, Raleigh, and several others. 

The used bike looks like a pretty decent deal. Ride it and some of the new bikes. Download the specs, because some of the less expensive bikes may have AL alloy forks, while the Felt probably has a carbon fork. A carbon fork is going to have a little bit better ride than an alloy fork. 

After you ride several bike (including the used one) decide which one(s) has the best fit and rides the best for you. Figure out which bike you're most excited about riding. A bike that doesn't fit or that you don't ride is not a good deal. One that does fit and that you ride all the time is going to be a good deal. 

And if you work on cars, working on a bike should be pretty simple. There are a lot of videos on YouTube regarding bike maintenance. See GCN, Park Tools, Peformance Bike, Art's Cyclery, etc.

GH


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I bought a Giant Defy 5. Will send pics when I get home


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> I bought a Giant Defy 5. Will send pics when I get home


Congrats! Ride, ride, ride!!! Good luck! Keep us posted. Great bike! It will do everything you want and for years to come!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> I bought a Giant Defy 5. Will send pics when I get home


Congrats! :thumbsup:


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks all for your help. I'm about to run to the gym but will post pics when I get back. Buddies waiting on me


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I will need to know the add on items I will need that I could possibly order from ebay or amazon. They tried to sale me a flat repair kit for $34 and a tire pump for $50. I have a compressor here at the house


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> I will need to know the add on items I will need that I could possibly order from ebay or amazon. They tried to sale me a flat repair kit for $34 and a tire pump for $50. I have a compressor here at the house


You will get awesome threads about this if you search around some. A floor pump with a gauge is pretty essential... You may have a good compressor, but the floor pump is fast and easy. I top up before every ride to avoid flats. Which brings me to: you will need a flat repair strategy. Extra tube, patches, CO2 and/or mini pump... And then there is the bibs! That bizarre looking outfit cyclists wear actually has real functional value. And a good pair will help you "adjust" to spending time on a road bike saddle. 

Remember, cycling is like a cocaine habit. It turns actual money into play money and you lose all reasonable perspective. If someone told me 2 years ago how much I'm trying to save up for a wheel upgrade I'd have told them they were completely insane! Haha! I'm mostly kidding, but getting the right starter gear is important.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

PBL450 said:


> Remember, cycling is like a cocaine habit. It turns actual money into play money and you lose all reasonable perspective. If someone told me 2 years ago how much I'm trying to save up for a wheel upgrade I'd have told them they were completely insane!


#coldhardtruth

Is this your bike? Looks great! No worries about past history, or whether something is/was bent. Enjoy it and ride the hell out of it. Check out the search feature or just browse through the begginer board... there's ton of useful info!

How far is the LBS (you'll see this on here quite often it means local bike shop) from your house?

your ride?
Defy 5 (2016) | Giant Bicycles | United States

Nice bike! Riding is a great way to clear your head and get in shape (you'll notice changes quickly).

Sometimes when I'm lazy I tell my wife to leave her cellphone on ring because if I flat I'll be calling her. No need to go crazy on accessories helmet and gloves is really all you need. 

Stupid thing I did when I first started out and am glad I now did: changed a flat at home before I had to do it out there on the side of the road. Made that first flat change - sweat pouring into my eyes and all - that much easier.

If you want to flick your compressor on in the garage and top it up now and then (can you set it to a certain PSI?) no reason why you can't use that, but tires do need topping off every few days.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Understood guys. I bought some padded shorts and helmet from the store I purchased the bike from. 

I took the bike out for a quick spin a few minutes ago. Felt great. Mt feet in the cages will take some getting use to. I've always ride with my foot in the middle of the pedal of any other bike. 

Here's a pic of it.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

9W9W said:


> #coldhardtruth
> 
> Is this your bike? Looks great! No worries about past history, or whether something is/was bent. Enjoy it and ride the hell out of it. Check out the search feature or just browse through the begginer board... there's ton of useful info!
> 
> ...


This is all really good stuff! I like the SAG car (wife) idea a lot. You can bring a flat to LBS for repair too, they will happily walk you through how to change a tube, at least they should. 

Thats ts a great looking bike! Is that the same? I love black and red! So exciting! (Yes, I think we are all complete bike geeks here)


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JBreezy, you did well man! Nice bike. Something you may not know is that Giant makes bikes - or frames rather - for other manufacturers as well (those bikes are branded with that brand's name). Pop in with questions. 

Map Bike Rides with Elevation Profiles, Analyze Cycling Performance, Train Better. Ride With GPS has a "find rides" feature, where you can find where the best local cycling routes are. it tells you how long, elevation profile, etc...


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

Congrats.. You are on your way. Even the garage door photo... Enjoy!!!


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks guys!!! I feel really good about. Didn't realize how serious this is until the guy set me up on the trainer and started measuring me and taking angle calculations to setup my bike. Going to look into taking a few rides and see how I like it. Until then I plan on taking a few short rides around my neighborhood which has lots of hills. Standing up and paddling will take some getting use to as well.


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

The fit is the most important part of it. Next would be rear bike light..keep it simple and plan some rides. Some days you'll rock other days it will rock you. But stick with it and check in at the lbs and find some local rides.. Enjoy and kudos!!


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I hope they don't look at me funny when I ride in on a new Giant when they tried to sale me a Trek 1.2. 

I have a Bell back light on my NEXT Mountain bike. All it needs is a battery. Guy tried to sale me a light for $35. I passed


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> I will need to know the add on items I will need that I could possibly order from ebay or amazon. They tried to sale me a flat repair kit for $34 and a tire pump for $50. I have a compressor here at the house


My essential list. Add to or delete from as you see fit:

Wedge saddle bag - medium (Topeak/ Specialized are two good brands)
Tire levers
Spare tube
Patch kit
Piece of old tube or 1$ bill to use as a 'boot'
Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 inflator
2-3 12-16g unthreaded carts (I get the 12g's by the box at Walmart)
Multitool w/ chain breaker
Mini-pump (if you don't trust CO2 alone)

Not essential, but nice to have:
Road ID
Rag/ paper towels
Latex gloves
Waterless soap (Gojo, or similar)
A second tube, if it'll fit

Optional:
Lights

I would strongly recommend a Road ID bracelet. Their basic model (Wrist ID Sport) will do. Also, a floor pump, but keep that home. ; )

EDIT: Two more things. 1) A computer with cadence function. Wired or wireless, depending on preferences/ budget. FWIW, I like Cateyes. 2) Camelbak Podium insulated bottles. I think there's both a chill and big version.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Nice list. I'll start researching for best prices on these things asap.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

My first ride today
3.9 miles. Used Ride with GPS app. It was tough due to the hills, but I finished without stopping. Bike performed flawlessly.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

If you're looking for an app to log your results (press button, ride, finish, press button) try Strava. It's by far the most widely used one out there, in fact Strava is so synonymous with cycling that it's often used as a verb. It also gives you everything you need and nothing you don't. Try it (free) and I think you'll like it better. Not important for many, the app will also show you how you did versus other riders who've ridden on the same roads.

I use the ride with gps website to find rides in unfamiliar territory. i.e. wife going to beach we've never been to, go to website type in beach name and get handful of rides in that area to pick from. If there are nice rides that fit my abilities I'll toss the bike in the back. The idea is that well those documented and traveled cycling roads are probably safer (wider shoulder), pothole free and not as busy. 

Per Giant's website, the gear cassette on your back wheel is 11-32. Very well suited to climbing. I checked because if it wasn't, you could have swapped out the gears for a little dinero and gotten yourself a lower gear for climbing (the last gear would have felt easier to spin). Anyhow, enjoy getting better with each day.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> My first ride today
> 3.9 miles. Used Ride with GPS app. It was tough due to the hills, but I finished without stopping. Bike performed flawlessly.


Tomorrow will be a shade easier... maybe. Next week a tad easier, the next week a bit faster.. you'll improve. 

Just stay with it and notch up duration and intensity incrementally. Most say add ~10% a week.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

JBeezy said:


> I will need to know the add on items I will need that I could possibly order from ebay or amazon. They tried to sale me a flat repair kit for $34 and a tire pump for $50. I have a compressor here at the house


Safety Needs: 
- Helmet (Certified CPSC; MIPS certificationis optional, soon it may be recommended)
- Gloves (for unexpected stops, but also for comfort)
- Tire repair kit (Seat Bag; Patch Kit; Tire Levers; Multi-Tool; Extra Tube(s))
- Water Bottle(s) / Cage(s)
- Floor Pump (for home use w/ pressure gauge)
- Portable Pump (either mini-pump or CO2 pump)
- Pedals (some bikes come w/o pedals)


Comfort Needs:
- Bike Short(s)/Bib(s) (Need the chamois for comfort)


Safety Wants:
- Sunglasses (to protect your eyes while cycling)
- Bell/Noise making device (Required in some areas; Check your local laws.)
- Mirror (To see those sneaky Prius's sneaking up on you)
- Lock (for when you stop; Small or U-Lock)


Nighttime Needs:
- Lights
- Extra reflectors
- Safety vest w/ reflectors


Performance Wants:
- Clipless Pedals
- Clipless Shoes
- Jersey(s) (wicking helps with comfort and performance)
- Sock(s) (wicking helps with comfort and performance)
- Cycling Computer (Smartphone can track rides; Strava / MapMyRide seem to be the most popular free apps, but have pay upgrades)
- Computer/Smartphone mount (I have Nite Ize HandleBand Universal Smartphone Bar Mount)
- Heart Rate Monitor
- Cadence Monitor
- Power Monitor


Comfort Wants:
- New Seat (The seat you get with the bike may be fine, but people often have to upgrade them if they riding 20+ miles at a time.)
- Seat Mud Flap
- Camelback (water backpack)
- Leg Warmers
- Rain Jacket


Commuting Wants:
- Fenders
- Rear Rack (Pannier)


Maintenance Wants:
- Chain lube
- Inexpensive small brushes to clean drive train
- P-handled hex wrenches, start with 4 mm, 5 mm, and 6 mm, or get complete set
- Pedal wrench.
- Anti-seize compound for metal. Carbon compound for seat posts and such. 
- Socket and bit set.
- Plastic/Latex gloves (Keeps your hands clean during maintenance)
- Clean wipes (In case your hands or bike gets dirty)
- Bike Stand


Travel Wants:
- Trunk Bike Rack


Nutrition
- Gels
- Osmo (Prehydration / Recovery)
- Skratch
- Nuun


GH


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Let's see what a full outfitted bike is suppose to look like.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> Let's see what a full outfitted bike is suppose to look like.











Same as yours with clipless pedals, 2 bottle cages... Garmin mount out front if can look tha close?


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PBL450 said:


> View attachment 308489
> 
> 
> Same as yours with clipless pedals, 2 bottle cages... Garmin mount out front if can look tha close?


Wow that's beautiful


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JB, 
Don't worry we're gunna hook that Giant up nice.
Since were tying not to break the bank here, you can pick up some cheap second hand wire cages on craigslist. Otherwise, ELITE is a good recognized brand in every color under the sun. They sell on eBay, for cheap, just pick a seller that ships from the US. I had a pair of white/red ones to match my white red bike and just picked up a pair of matte black to match the new matte black ride. 

Pair 2 Elite Custom Race Road Bike Water Bottle Cages 42g Matte Black White | eBay

the itch to spend money will hit you as soon as you start getting better and going faster.  you'll be able to rationalize pro level this and that for your 2 hour thirty mile rides. 

oh, a blinking rear light is a good idea if you have kids or any long term commitments, that sorta thing...

CygoLite Hotshot Micro USB Rechargeable Commuter 2 Watt LED Bike Rear Tail Light | eBay

vicariously shopping through other people is fun.


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

JBeezy said:


> My first ride today
> 3.9 miles. Used Ride with GPS app. It was tough due to the hills, but I finished without stopping. Bike performed flawlessly.


 kudos!! Sounds like you do the gym from another of your posts. I would suggest a little stepper action at the gym with interval sets to help the bike riding..

Other items that have been talked about while I was traveling this week.

Strava=second, third and forth that. 

Jersey's = Ebay.. look around for what you might like..I'm a Subaru guy and found a brand new Subie Jersey with tags for $11 with shipping. So, the deals exist. Biggest thing on jersey's is they all don't fit the same so be sure to use a fabric tape measure to check you actual sizes. In other words a medium from one mfg'er is not a medium at another. The same applies to bibs. Used Jersey's are also a good deal as long as you can tell from the photos what condition they are in. By-pass the Chinese knockoffs. 

bib's= you'll feel stupid at first but well worth the money. Again ebay it. You can find great steals like Obrea bibs with shipping for $50 new. 

Pj and 9W have provided some great info on the items list so I will leave that piece alone. Why mess with perfection I say..

Just plan out your purchases through all this stuff adds up fast. Also, re-learn the metric system as most if not all items are really geared toward Europe like Shoes, Shirts and just about everything is always listed in metric. 

Forgive the photo: The garage door is not down. it's not from the drive train side and it was from 40 mile ride back home to cut mom's grass thus the tri fuel bag. Had shorts and flip flops in my jersey. Cutting grass in spandex is a no no.. Last but not least I finally ditched the white felt tape that sux'ed for black specialized tape. Also, changed the pedals our to VP racers. So, you can see that adding up.


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## proclaimer888 (Jul 24, 2010)

Congrats!! Nothin like the new bike smell!! Cool thread as well.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I got a pair of shorts from the bike shop and I love the fit, but does feel a little weird while walking around. 

So far I've ordered a digital tire pressure gauge, and will be ordering a pump tomorrow and a bag. At least with the pump and gauge I can ride close to home. Also plan on ordering a bottle cage and bottle as well. I bought some of those valve stem adapters so I could air the tires with me compressor, but something just doesn't seem right about that.

As far as jerseys I wore my adidas dri-fit shirt and it felt pretty good. I was very tempted to ride again today, but I figured I need to let my legs rest. I felt it today. It was rough climbing 3 flights of stairs when I went to the office this morning.


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## SauronHimself (Nov 21, 2012)

JBeezy said:


> Guy wants $550 for it. Is it worth that?


At the end of the day, a good deal is always a state of mind.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JBeezy said:


> As far as jerseys I wore my adidas dri-fit shirt and it felt pretty good.


Like I said earlier, OK to throw anything on top, it's the bottom where you want to be setup right. I suppose at much longer distances than you are doing now loose shirts can give you insane nipple chafe. Think wind blowing against a loose shirt made of a slightly abrasive fabric which is continuously whipping against your salty nipples.

Consider bibs when you're looking around for another pair of shorts. I'm sure you've seen them at the LBS, they are bike shorts with suspenders that go over the shoulders. You can't see the suspenders because they are under your dri-fit so it looks no different than wearing shorts. However, 

You may find bibs more comfortable. First, they don't have a waistband, so there's no gripping around the waist or bands that roll over/off. Secondly, they don't slide down or move around as everything is nice and tight. Not having a waistband just feels better, and if that sweaty diaper isn't moving around as you stand up and then sit back down on the bike, you're less likely to chafe over long distances. Just a thought for when you start riding more.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks for the advice. I actually laughed out loud. Too funny. I'm going to visit my LBS today, again to see what they have. Once I get a pump and a repair kit I'll try to veture out on longer rides. I live on what we consider the mountain, so I have to choose my trips wisely


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

If I remember correctly, you have a 11-32 cassette on your rear wheel. That's about as mountain friendly of a gear set as you can get. You can change cassettes depending on where you live and whether you need "an extra gear" or really "an easier last gear" when climbing. Remember, you'll get better quickly, so you'll be spinning that last gear easier and faster soon enough. Today is ride day no? Yesterday was rest day? No slacking!

In cycling there's this concept of a "recovery ride". Another words you do a hard ride that leaves you sore, the following day you do a short, super easy, relatively slow speed ride. Basically, you're just out there spinning in an easy gear looking around waving at people passing by. The idea is that going on a ride like that will benefit you the following day when you get back on the bike for your normal exercise/fat loss ride. Keeping things moving and flexing helps them from being too stiff the next day. Slow rides which have your heart in ZONE 2-3 are also optimal for fat loss. Whereas, harder rides where you're gasping, hammering and "feeling the burn" are likely ZONE 4+ and burn less fat stores.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Awesome info. I'm doing my 4 mile ride today, once again. I think my gears are perfect, just have to build as you stated.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Got my first item in today. A Michelin tire pressure gauge. Tires were down to 75 psi. Glad I didn't take another ride. 

My air compressor struggles to reach 95 psi. Guess it wasn't made to pump tires that high


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

about tire pressures, 

What I've picked up from these boards is: Since your body weight isn't distributed evenly over the wheels, and each wheel "bears" a different amount of weight. it should follow that tire pressures can be slightly different in each tire. For example, I put in 85-95lbs in the front on my 25cc tire (yours are 25cc width as well) and 100-110psi in the rear. Just ballparks to illustrate a point. That way the wheel under my ass gets the PSI it needs, and the front wheel gets less to help mute out road vibrations/bumps to keep my hands comfortable.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

JBeezy said:


> Got my first item in today. A Michelin tire pressure gauge. Tires were down to 75 psi. Glad I didn't take another ride.
> 
> My air compressor struggles to reach 95 psi. Guess it wasn't made to pump tires that high


Yeah, I was afraid of that. My air compressor won't do it either... Floor pump with gauge is easier anyway, and it doesn't need to break the bank.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I mean it gets there, but I have to let it build up to achieve it, between pumping tires.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Re: tire pressures, some good points made by 9W9W above. I think you'll find the second chart at the link below helpful. Just keep in mind a variety of factors (your roads, style of riding...) can influence *your* correct pressures. 

Bicycle tire pressure calculator

FWIW, I don't see the need for a floor pump, so use an older model Black and Decker 120 volt inflator that easily inflates to over 100 PSI. Shop around if that's the route you want to take.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Forgot to mention in my earlier post... doing a quick search it looks like the Defy will take 28c's which will give a somewhat better ride and require lower pressures. Verify this with your LBS before purchasing, but food for thought.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> Forgot to mention in my earlier post... doing a quick search it looks like the Defy will take 28c's which will give a somewhat better ride and require lower pressures. Verify this with your LBS before purchasing, but food for thought.


Will also consider this when it's time for tires.


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## respro100 (Jul 15, 2014)

Congratulations, that's a beautiful bike. Enjoy it


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks, I'm loving it. Clocked 5.4 miles today.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Just wanted to chime back in to say I'm loving this bike the more I ride it. Not sure what an more expensive bike would ride like, but for $639 I'm happy. Stepped my distance up on my last ride to 7 miles. Plan on riding that route for another week or two, then push further. Trying to build my legs up to allow more standing uphill peddling.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

JBeezy said:


> Just wanted to chime back in to say I'm loving this bike the more I ride it. Not sure what an more expensive bike would ride like, but for $639 I'm happy. Stepped my distance up on my last ride to 7 miles. Plan on riding that route for another week or two, then push further. Trying to build my legs up to allow more standing uphill peddling.


Glad to hear you're enjoying.

Not many people can stand and hammer uphills for extended duration of time. Standing can help you get over the hump, but it comes at a high price as you burn quite a bit of whatever energy you have left at that point. Your goal should be to sit and spin up that climb you are looking to conquer. Yeah I know, easier written than done. I know, trust me I'm 200lbs+. That will happen slowly, but you'll find yourself sitting and spinning up in a smaller gear without the need to stand. 

Absolutely nothing to be concerned about for the next two years if not more, but... and I know this sounds ridiculous (as it did to me a few years ago) but there really is a tremendous difference between the feel of a 1K bike and a 4K bike. 

Stay safe, days are getting shorter.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

I totally understand. I usually sit and ride up hill when there is nothing left. On my return home my ride is totally up hill, at least a mile. I'm 228 lbs... I generally ride on my lunch break during the day. I don't think I'll be doing any night riding at all


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JBeezy said:


> Just wanted to chime back in to say I'm loving this bike the more I ride it. Not sure what an more expensive bike would ride like, but for $639 I'm happy. *Stepped my distance up on my last ride to 7 miles. Plan on riding that route for another week or two, then push further. * Trying to build my legs up to allow more standing uphill peddling.


That's a good plan. Maybe more importantly, you're loving the bike the more you ride it. 

Re: climbing out of the saddle, along with what 9W9W offered, here's a link you may find helpful:
CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Just read all of that. Good reading. I'm ready to ride, now, but it's dark. Tomorrow I'm on it if the weather holds out


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Hey guys. Hate to bring this back up but I need some new riding gear, clipless pedals and shoes. Not trying to break the bank, just getting ready for riding weather. Link me to the sites with the best prices. I ebay some things, but...


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Either a google search or checking out some of the more well-known online sellers is probably your best option here (or Ebay). There are a ton of options.

As an example you could check out Excel Sports. Currently ~$40 for Shimano 105 SPD-SL PD-R540 Pedals. Maybe not a bad starting point. 

You definitely do NOT need to lock your shoe choices down to the same brand as your pedals. Just make sure the shoes you get have the right holes (for instance if getting Shimano road pedals, get 3-hole shoes).


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## kjdhawkhill (Jan 29, 2011)

You don't need to buy it all at once, but shoes, pedals and cleats should be purchased together as a first timer. 

As far as riding weather, you already have it if you live where your profile says you live. It's riding weather all year round down there.

After or on par with shoes, don't be afraid to spend a little more on one or two really nice pairs of bib shorts. The chamois will be infinitely better than cheap stuff, and will last far longer, too. Cheap shorts are fine for short and medium length rides. Get some low end jerseys from bash at or performance as they don't matter nearly as much.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

It is better to buy shoes at a LBS, where you can try them on. All brands fit different.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

duriel said:


> It is better to buy shoes at a LBS, where you can try them on. All brands fit different.


Very true. And along those lines, remember that cleat setup is an integral part of bike fit, so purchasing both pedals and shoes from your LBS will likely include cleat setup. Otherwise, count on a charge for that service, minimizing any online savings.

Also, if you detail the other cycling related items you're looking to buy advice may be more reliable.


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## JBeezy (Aug 16, 2015)

Thanks all. I ordered some things from Nashbar.com. shoes, pedals, computer, and a few other items. Going to order tire tools and s spare tube tomorrow


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

9W9W said:


> Like I said earlier, OK to throw anything on top, it's the bottom where you want to be setup right.


I tried that for one trainer session after I broke my collarbone and needed my wife's help to don and doff my brace to swap cotton t-shirts for cycling jerseys.

After an hour my t-shirt was super gross having soaked up enough sweat I could wring it out like a towel, where a thin fast-drying synthetic jersey would have been somewhere between damp and wet.



> I suppose at much longer distances than you are doing now loose shirts can give you insane nipple chafe.


Flapping doesn't take long to become annoying

Obviously any snug synthetic athletic jersey would be enough to avoid those problems.

Cycling jerseys have pockets on back which are a convenient place to stash all you need on rides out to 12 hours - phone, wallet, keys, wind jacket, leg warmers, six energy bars - where your food is immediately accessible.

They're longer in back so you don't get a tramp-stamp sunburn, and shorter in front so they don't bunch up in a riding position.



> You may find bibs more comfortable. First, they don't have a waistband, so there's no gripping around the waist or bands that roll over/off. Secondly, they don't slide down or move around as everything is nice and tight.


Shorts don't move or roll-down when your waist is sufficiently smaller than your hips, and don't need to be sized for both your height and bottom half.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> I tried that for one trainer session after I broke my collarbone and needed my wife's help to don and doff my brace to swap cotton t-shirts for cycling jerseys.
> 
> After an hour my t-shirt was super gross having soaked up enough sweat I could wring it out like a towel, where a thin fast-drying synthetic jersey would have been somewhere between damp and wet.


I don't think anyone here is suggesting that a new rider necessarily wear a cotton t-shirt over a Cycling Jersey.

What a lot of people are saying is that you can buy a wicking t-shirt (e.g. UA, Nike, Adidas, Asics, etc.). Many of these are as form fitting as a cycling jersey, but they are usually less expensive. And if you're not doing a long ride where you need the pockets, then these types of shirts are perfectly good.

GH


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