# Going to flat bar for commuting



## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

I currently ride a 54cm road bike and was looking at buying a second hand road bike and put flat bars on it as a commuter.

Do I need to buy a frame one or two sizes bigger than I currently ride as I'm worried that if I bought a 54cm and put flat bars on it, I would be too upright and the bars would be too close to the seat.

I generally prefer a more agrressive strectched riding posiion, but still "commuter" friendly. Any suggestions.

Thanks


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

longer stem on the same frame will work a treat!
I commute with one of these and the multiple hand positions allow me to stretch out or sit up in traffic for added visibilty. Not produced anymore but they turn up on e bay and craigslist from time to time Scott aT-4 bars


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

My wrists do not like flat bars. I use mustaches on one of my commuters, and bullhorns on the other.

My question to you: what does "commuter friendly" actually mean? For me, I had a 30 km ride each way--- and commuter friendly mean "road comfort." 



roger9 said:


> I currently ride a 54cm road bike and was looking at buying a second hand road bike and put flat bars on it as a commuter.
> 
> Do I need to buy a frame one or two sizes bigger than I currently ride as I'm worried that if I bought a 54cm and put flat bars on it, I would be too upright and the bars would be too close to the seat.
> 
> ...


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## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

By commuter friendly I mean I like to be in a position that makes it easy for me to swerve in and out of traffic, avoid pedestrians, jump up and down kerbs and hit the brakes in an emergency.

I am comfortable in a slightly stretched position and don't like "upright" style riding. I have both a MTB and a good road bike, so I'm confident that a flat bar road bike will suit my needs.

The only thing I'm not sue about is size. I ride a 54cm Six13 but feel if I got another bike the same size and put a flat bar on it the fit would be too tight - the hoods are about 2-3" forward from the centre of the stem/bar.

Do I need to get a larger size frame for a flat bat application ??? I currently use a 110mm stem so I don't see the merit in going too much longer in this area.

My issue is sizing - hope somone has some experience in this area.


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## rogerstg (Aug 1, 2007)

roger9 said:


> By commuter friendly I mean I like to be in a position that makes it easy for me to swerve in and out of traffic, avoid pedestrians, jump up and down kerbs and hit the brakes in an emergency.
> 
> I am comfortable in a slightly stretched position and don't like "upright" style riding. I have both a MTB and a good road bike, so I'm confident that a flat bar road bike will suit my needs.


Since you're sure of your needs, I'd suggest riding the Mtn bike once or twice and work off of that geometry regarding reach especially. If you're like me, you might hate the flat bars on the road.
If it were me, I'd put slightly wider drop bars on a road bike and install cross brake levers (or buy a cheap cross bike). The levers are handy around the city, parking lots, etc.

Hope this helps,
Roger


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

I second riding the MTB and using that geometry. 

You might be able to build up a pretty nice MTB based commuter and the TT, stems in those applications can get you into a reasonably aggressive stretched position. For my small size, the seat tube angles weren't quite optimal but I'm still looking. Something like this Fisher Mendota has been on my mind. 

http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/mendota


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## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

Kuma601 said:


> I second riding the MTB and using that geometry.
> 
> You might be able to build up a pretty nice MTB based commuter and the TT, stems in those applications can get you into a reasonably aggressive stretched position. For my small size, the seat tube angles weren't quite optimal but I'm still looking. Something like this Fisher Mendota has been on my mind.
> 
> http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/mendota



I've been commuting on a MTB for years with skinny tyres. I just thought the change to a lighter road frame and 700cc wheels would be a nice (faster) change. I don't use a granny so 2 rings at the front is OK and once again keeps things light. I don't do long ninterupted road sections and most of my riding is in and out of back streets, footpaths and anywhere I can go to avoid traffic.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

We're in the same thought. I didn't like the slug like feel of the MTB but the flat bar position was good. I've swapped parts so it is essentially a double road group but it's still not as agile feeling. Which led to: I made the wrong choice in my stable by using the shorter TT for my flat bar conversion. For that one, a 140mm stem would have been a better fit along with a TT of 52.5 or 53cm. Instead it has a TT of 51.5cm and the 130mm stem is still too short. I was upright.  










I still want a easier commuter rig which is why I've been pondering the Mendota. One of the guys at an out of town shop put 700C 36X laced road wheels and drop bars on his. He commented was that blend between his MTB and road bikes. After he said that, I've been seriously considering it.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*cow horns?*



roger9 said:


> I currently ride a 54cm road bike and was looking at buying a second hand road bike and put flat bars on it as a commuter.
> 
> Do I need to buy a frame one or two sizes bigger than I currently ride as I'm worried that if I bought a 54cm and put flat bars on it, I would be too upright and the bars would be too close to the seat.
> 
> ...


I use cow (bull) horns on my commuter bikes. Much more comfortable than flat bars, and more variety of positions. Keep the regular stem and frame. Works great if you put a bar end shifter on them, too.


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## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

roger9 said:


> By commuter friendly I mean I like to be in a position that makes it easy for me to swerve in and out of traffic, avoid pedestrians, jump up and down kerbs and hit the brakes in an emergency.
> 
> I am comfortable in a slightly stretched position and don't like "upright" style riding. I have both a MTB and a good road bike, so I'm confident that a flat bar road bike will suit my needs.
> 
> ...


Here's mine. This is my 56 cm Surly Cross Check. With road bars on this bike I would go with an 11cm stem. With the flat bars I am using a zero rise 135 stem. I am very happy with it for my purpose--urban commuting, which, as you mention, involves dealing with pedestrians, curbs and being able to get on the brakes hard. So, basically, add 2-3 cm to the stem and it should work. 

I should also note I am using a flat bar with a fair amount of sweep--Kalloy Allrounder with 15 degrees bend.

https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/COMPHBMF/HB3900


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## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

Thanks for the feedback. I agree that I need about another 30mm on the stem for a flat bar road bike - confirmed by the other posts.

I'm just worried that as I normally like a 110mm stem on my road bike (54cm) the new stem would need to be 140mm, probably way too long as it would throw out the overall weight distribution and geometry.

Hence, the only real solution is to buy a frame one or 2 sizes up (say 56 to 58cm) so I can have a longer top tube with a "normal" length stem and still keep the bike balanced.

Thanks guys


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## thinkcooper (Jan 5, 2005)

Fixed said:


> I use cow (bull) horns on my commuter bikes. Much more comfortable than flat bars, and more variety of positions. Keep the regular stem and frame. Works great if you put a bar end shifter on them, too.



Same advice here. Bull horns with bar ends on my commuter.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Well I converted mt Flat-bar bike back to drops. On the FB I used a 120mm stem. With road bars I am using a 110mm stem. So depending on the TT, I would say add 10-20mm to the stem length.

Use this excel sheet to cacluate the excat same position from your road bike.

http://light-bikes.com/BikePhotos/web_pics/bike compare.XLS


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## Lazyrider (Sep 15, 2004)

*Flat Bars are good,*

I used this one to jump start my cycling/weight loss over past 6 months. Great for night rides too. Upright position keeps you focused. Got the Ergon grips which are the best hand grips you can get.


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## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

roger9 said:


> I'm just worried that as I normally like a 110mm stem on my road bike (54cm) the new stem would need to be 140mm, probably way too long as it would throw out the overall weight distribution and geometry.
> 
> Hence, the only real solution is to buy a frame one or 2 sizes up (say 56 to 58cm) so I can have a longer top tube with a "normal" length stem and still keep the bike balanced.
> 
> Thanks guys


I don't find that to be true at all with the 135 stem. Basically your hands end up near where they'd be on the hoods, and the weight distribution is about the same. 

If you're convinced you need a different frame, I wouldn't go up a size or two, I'd just find a 54 with a longer top tube.


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## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

Henry Chinaski said:


> I don't find that to be true at all with the 135 stem. Basically your hands end up near where they'd be on the hoods, and the weight distribution is about the same.
> 
> If you're convinced you need a different frame, I wouldn't go up a size or two, I'd just find a 54 with a longer top tube.



I find it hard to think how a 54 can have a top tube much longer than 54cm as this is generally how frame size is measured - but I must admit your point about hand placement on the hoods is very valid.

This is why I use this forum - sometimes you need to be told the obvious, but bear in mind the distance from the centre of the bar to the hoods position is usually about 120 to 150mm.

Thanks


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

*Seems like a stem is an easy try*

"I'm just worried that as I normally like a 110mm stem on my road bike (54cm) the new stem would need to be 140mm, probably way too long as it would throw out the overall weight distribution and geometry."

I'm not a pro mechanic, but I do a lot of bike wrenching and prolly my #1 job is converting friends' "old" road bikes into commuter type/townie bikes with flat bars and thumbies or Rapidfire pods. Nice steel road frames, road wheels and a slightly more upright riding position are a great combo- I'm amazed there aren't more "Speed bikes" or "Streetfighters" being sold.

If you use a 110 stem now, I think you'll find a 120 or 130 will work fine. Remember that your hand position on a flat handlebar will be the same relative to the stem as riding on the flats of a road handlebar. The extra reach you're thinking about only occurs when riding on the hoods or in the drops. For that purpose- 'going aero' or high speed cruising, etc., use bar ends or a bullhorn bar. Bar ends are out of fashion now, which makes me very happy- I love them and they're usually cheap or on sale.

Here's a Paramount PDG2 that I bought on Ebay and built up with Suntour thumbies, a Scott AT2-LF bar, and longer Ritchey stem for my sister in law.


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## roger9 (Aug 4, 2006)

Thanks for the comments - I agree that bar ends are a great option, its amazing how much difference in riding position feel the bar ends give you. I use the short "single track" style on my MTB and love them (at 66 grams) there's no wieght penalty either.

I'll definitely be putting bar ends on when I find a frame - I'm pretty well convinced that a 56 to 58 cm frame will work fine for me with the flat bar, and as you said it seems like a logical solution for commuting particularly when you don't spend a lot of time on a single section of road, my route to work is a constant mix of back streets, main roads, footpaths, then the city and some cycleway.


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## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

I believe the Soma cross frames run long in the top tube--longer than the Surly anyway. Might be worth a look, and they are nice and cheap.

One other thing, my bars are still pretty low, so it ends up being very close to my normal road position.


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