# Freewheel on track hub; chainline?



## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

If I attach a freewheel on a track hub (non flip-flop), instead of a cog, would the chainline still be 42mm? As far as I can see, freewheels are typically wider than track cogs.

Are the chainlines on a flip-flop hub (ss/fix) the same (42mm?) for both the freewheel and the cog?

Cheers.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

It will be close enough....It depends on who made the freewheel but it will be within a 1mm or so


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

The distance from the threads to the flange is the same on a Formula flip/flop hub. An ACS Claws freewheel moves the chainline out about a millimeter farther than the track cog which in my case actually improved the chainline as I used a 107 spindle on a Sugino crank that calls for a 103.

As Dave said, no problem.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

On my SS conversion using White Industries freecog, my chain line ran about 44mm on a Formula fixed/fixed hub which was almost perfect with my Campy Record road cranks with chain ring mounted on the outside.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

That's the second time I've heard that Campy double cranks work best with the ring on the outside...That's a much cleaner looking setup vs Shimano which requires in the inside position.( I can't believe I'm staring a Campy vs Shimano war)


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

SHIMANO SUCKS!!!

And by that I mean thanks for the help


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Dave Hickey said:


> That's the second time I've heard that Campy double cranks work best with the ring on the outside...That's a much cleaner looking setup vs Shimano which requires in the inside position.( I can't believe I'm staring a Campy vs Shimano war)


Campy Record road crank with 44t ring...


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

Roadfix: That looks nice. Freewheel in the back, yeah?

New question:

Can I use a 1/8th chainring on a double road crank (both 144BCD)? I'm asking since I'm unsure if the crank is wide enough, to support the chainring.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Yes...No problem using a 1/8 chainring as long as they are both the same BCD


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## JaeP (Mar 12, 2002)

*2mm difference*

My chainline has a difference of 2mm. Should I be worried? 

I'm using a Dura Ace 9spd road crank on my track bike. 48t chainring is on the outside because if I put inside the chainring barely clears the chainstay.


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

What's the typical flange distance (along the axle), for a 120mm spaced hub? Wider flange distance = stronger wheel?

I'm debating whether to keep my old Suzue hub (6spd freewheel), install a 1spd freewheel and redish or build a new rear wheel. I'm looking for a strong solid commutin' rear wheel


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Flange distance is narrower but there is very little or no dishing (depending on track hub), therefore the wheel should be stronger than a conversion hub which has been dished to one side.


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

Narrower than what? 126mm?

The wheel as it is now is very dished. Installing the freewheel and redishing it, would put the rim almost center hub.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

tjr said:


> The wheel as it is now is very dished. Installing the freewheel and redishing it, would put the rim almost center hub.


Scratch my previous post.

When you say your wheel is very dished now, what exactly do you have?


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

It's a 126mm spaced rear hub with a 6spd free wheel. 

From what I can tell/meassure, the center of the hub (read: half flange distance), is moved ~15mm towards the non-drive-side ti make room for the freewheel.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

tjr said:


> It's a 126mm spaced rear hub with a 6spd free wheel.


Here's what happens when you install a track cog or a single speed freecog on that hub.
Your wheel must be dished in the opposite direction, the threaded side of the hub must be moved closer to the drive side dropout to get a good chain line. Re-arrange axle spacers accordingly.


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

roadfix said:


> Here's what happens when you install a track cog or a single speed freecog on that hub.
> Your wheel must be dished in the opposite direction, the threaded side of the hub must be moved closer to the drive side dropout to get a good chain line. Re-arrange axle spacers accordingly.


I know. 

What I'm trying to figure out is the typical flange distance on a track hub.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

tjr said:


> I know.
> 
> What I'm trying to figure out is the typical flange distance on a track hub.



I just happen to have 4 track bikes in my office( don't ask )

here are some estimated distances flange to flange. these are all track hubs

Dura Ace 7600 high flange. center to center 7cm
Dura Ace 7710 low flange center to center 6.5cm
Phil Wood med flange center to center 7 cm
Formula center to center 6 cm

Again these are estimates trying to stick a ruler into spokes and measuring the flanges


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

Cheers. Why do you have 4 track bikes in your office? P)

Flange distance on my hub (Suzue 6sp freewheel) i 5,5cm. That's quite a bit IMO.

Upgrading to a track hub would give a stronger wheel, yeah?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

tjr said:


> Upgrading to a track hub would give a stronger wheel, yeah?


Very marginally stronger. Think of it this way: The wheel is strong enough now to be safely rideable, even with a lot of dish. When you respace and redish it to a nearly symmetrical configuration, it will be even stronger.

I commute on fixies. All my rear wheels are built on old freewheel hubs. They take a lot of abuse, and i've never had a hint of a problem.


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## peyo (Aug 5, 2008)

roadfix said:


> Campy Record road crank with 44t ring...


Wow, that does look nice. Hmm, time to start looking at Campy double cranks for the next conversion.


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## tjr (Sep 18, 2007)

JCavilia said:


> Very marginally stronger. Think of it this way: The wheel is strong enough now to be safely rideable, even with a lot of dish. When you respace and redish it to a nearly symmetrical configuration, it will be even stronger.
> 
> I commute on fixies. All my rear wheels are built on old freewheel hubs. They take a lot of abuse, and i've never had a hint of a problem.


Cool. The axle is bent on my hub, but it can be replaced. I really like the idea of reusing the hub, since it seems allright. Open bearings I can service myself etc. 

Another offtopic Q: Are pedalstraps/Looks/SPDs necessary on fixed bikes? I'm guessing they are.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

tjr said:


> Cool. The axle is bent on my hub, but it can be replaced. I really like the idea of reusing the hub, since it seems allright. Open bearings I can service myself etc.
> 
> Another offtopic Q: Are pedalstraps/Looks/SPDs necessary on fixed bikes? I'm guessing they are.




I reused/respaced/redished an old campy fw hub/wheel... works great. if it's qr you'll prob want a solid bolt-on axle w/ track nuts anyway

yes, you will want some kind of foot retention


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*"necessary"*



tjr said:


> CAnother offtopic Q: Are pedalstraps/Looks/SPDs necessary on fixed bikes? I'm guessing they are.


is a bit strong, but they're a very good idea, especially when you get to 140 rpm rolling down that hill. Or as the late, lamented Sheldon Brown put it, "Riding fixed with plain pedals is an advanced fixed gear skill, only recommended for experienced fixed-gear riders."

My bad-weather commuter is also the around-town errand bike, and I often ride it in plain shoes (dual-sided pedals -- spd on one side, plain on the other). It takes some attention, and I don't go too fast that way.

One related point: as between straps and clipless, clipless is way easier, IME. Flipping the pedal to get your toe in the strap (not to mention tightening and loosening the strap) with the crank moving is an extra challenge I don't need.

Not an issue with freewheeling SS, obviously.


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