# Upgrading Shimano 2300 (I'm a complete noob to road biking!)



## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Hey everyone, I've been reading through this site for the past month or two doing research on road biking. I've been riding a reaaaaally terrible Walmart mountain bike since high school and after trying my neighbor's Trek 1.2, I fell in love. I managed to get a barely used 2012 Specialized Allez Compact for extremely cheap on Craigslist and I couldn't be happier. Sure, I could've gotten a better bike with better components, but the low price on this one was just too good to pass up! 

Now that I've been riding for a bit, I've realized that the Shimano 2300 shifters are not that great, especially with the thumb buttons. That's why I've come to you guys for some help. I'm looking to turn my bike into the next-level 2013 Specialized Allez Sport Compact (sorry, I can't post links yet :0)

Goal: Looking to upgrade to maybe Sora or Tiagra components.
Questions:
- Can I "mix and match" components? I know I have to change the 8-speed cassette to a 9-speed one...but what about the derailleurs?
- Are there any parts on my current bike that I can still use (i.e: front derailleur, or cranks?

I will probably add more questions as they come.
Right now I'm looking at the Sora 3500 or Tiagra 4500 shifters. I've found relatively cheap components on Ebay/Craigslist, so price is not really an issue.

Thanks in advance for all your help!


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

My bike specs:
*FRONT DERAILLEUR*

Shimano 2300

*REAR DERAILLEUR*

Shimano 2300

*SHIFT LEVERS*

Shimano 2300 STI

*CASSETTE *

Shimano HG-50, 8-speed, 12-25

*CHAIN*

KMC Z51


*CRANKSET*

Shimano 2300 compact


*CHAINRINGS*

50/34


*BOTTOM BRACKET *

Sealed cartridge, square taper, 68mm



Desired Specs (from 2013 Allez Sport Compact):
*FRONT DERAILLEUR*

New Shimano Sora

*REAR DERAILLEUR*

New Shimano Sora

*SHIFT LEVERS*

New Shimano Sora STI

*CASSETTE *

Shimano HG-50, 9-speed, 12-27

*CHAIN*

KMC X9

*CRANKSET*

FSA Tempo Compact 9-speed

*CHAINRINGS*

50/34

*BOTTOM BRACKET *

Sealed cartridge, square taper, 68mm


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

It's not cost effective and VERY insignificant of an "upgrade". Changing one thing will force you to change everything else since the higher groups are 9 and 10 speed. Only things you can safely transfer alone are brakes and crankset (including BB), and neither of those will make a big difference. In fact pads will serve as a more significant upgrade and I bet Shimano's front shifting is better than FSA's. 

Just ride it out and enjoy it. Stuff works perfectly fine. Not to be a humongous **** but really? Someone going out of their way to upgrade to Sora is ridiculous.


*btw thumb shifters are GOAT-tier Campagnolo Ergo


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## simonaway427 (Jul 12, 2010)

If all you're worried about are the thumb shifters, for much much cheaper, buy these:

Amazon.com: Shimano ST-R500 STI Flight Deck Lever Set (8-Speed, Silver): Sports & Outdoors
(Jenson USA has them as well)


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## perpetuum_mobile (Nov 30, 2012)

Don't waste money on this bike. Ride it hard until it falls apart. Save your pennies for a better bike. You could probably find a new bike with complete 105 for little over $1k. And it will be less than 1k if you buy a used bike.

It is allays cheaper to buy a complete bike with better components than it is to upgrade. And upgrading to Sora is ridiculous.


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## RaptorTC (Jul 20, 2012)

As others have said, probably not the best use of your cash.

I'm in a similar situation with my mountain bike. I'd like to upgrade it right now, but I know that if I just save my pennies then I'll be able to afford a brand new nicer bike in a little while.


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

If you got a used cassette, and used shifters, it would work out to less than 100. You don't need to change derailleurs. If you got new shifters, they're close to 150, plus the cassette. 

I contemplated all this and decided not to do this - I'm going for another bike instead - that $200 would be a dealbreaker on a _new _bike, so why would I spend it on this one, when the components are basically new pristine and work prefectly.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Thank you for all the replies!
For those who have said that it is pointless to upgrade--I guess I should have given some background information. I am not an employed adult with a steady cash flow, nor am I a middle-aged man going through an existential crisis who requires some sort of youthful activity to regain his self image (sorry lol).

I'm just an engineering student in Boston who likes to ride around. I live in Queens, NY and there are some nice paths I like to ride on when the weather permits. I am not going to be looking at another bike until I graduate, or even until I'm employed. I have no desire to save up for another bike, because I'm not going to be getting one in the near future. All the money I have saved up has come from investing in the stock market (my latest success being today, with $SVU!!). I feel that upgrading the shifters would be a nice little treat in the long run. I love my bike, and I will take care of it as best as I can.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Furthermore, a small project like upgrading the shifters will allow me to further understand the mechanical workings of a bicycle, something I am greatly interested in. This project is not merely intended for a slight boost in shifting performance or comfort, but rather as a learning experience. I will undoubtedly take the bike to an LBS for inspection, but it is the thought of having done it myself that will make me happy.

That being said, I have worked out the pricing (for potential parts, I still don't really know if I can "mix" parts), and it has turned out to be a little over $100. My Allez would have (potential) Tiagra shifters, and still cost lest than the Allez Sport Compact.

Is there still any way for you guys to guide me? Thank you in advance!


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## perpetuum_mobile (Nov 30, 2012)

YOLO said:


> ....nor am I a middle-aged man going through an existential crisis and requires some sort of youthful activity to regain some sort of self image (sorry lol).


This is good one. You made yourself a lot of enemies with this one.

I still don't understand why you want to upgrade shifters and how it is going to help you to understand the mechanical workings of a bicycle. It is not a rocket science. You can find documents with detailed description of all possible bike drive-train parts on Shimano, Campy or Sram web pages. You don't have to by parts to look at those documents. And if you are on the thigh budget don't go to LBS. Do your own wrenching - it will save you time and money and you might learn something. Internet is full of resources for DIY enthusiasts. Try youtube for example.


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## perpetuum_mobile (Nov 30, 2012)

Actually it seems to me that YOLO is a troll. Nice try.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Geez, sorry for attempting to ask an honest question. You know, because I really need to drop $1000+ for a nice bike...../sarcasm

It appears I'll have to take my questions elsewhere. Thank you.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If you want to rid yourself of the thumb tab and go with 9 speed, just replace your shifters with Sora ST-3500 and get a 9 speed chain and cassette. The remainder of your drivetrain will work fine with 9 speed.


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## mitchd (May 24, 2012)

YOLO said:


> That being said, I have worked out the pricing (for potential parts, I still don't really know if I can "mix" parts), and it has turned out to be a little over $100.


I can't post links but I think you are looking for the "Shimano Compatability Chart". Google will find it. 

If you replace your brifters, you'll need new front and rear deraileurs for sure. I don't think you'd have to replace the crankset and bottom bracket but something from the same groupset that you're upgrading to would probably perform slightly better. You'll need a new rear cassette for your new 9 or 10 speed deraileur. Brake calipers are probably fine.

You can usually find a "5 piece group set" on the bay that includes the essential parts. Looks like you can do Tiagra for around $300 plus labor and/or tools if you don't have them. I didn't shop around for you, though, so that price might be off.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mitchd said:


> If you replace your brifters, you'll need new front and rear deraileurs for sure.


That's incorrect. The OP's RD is perfectly compatible with 8,9,10 speed drivetrains. The cable 'pull' is dictated by the STI's which (as stated) would need to be changed.

As long as he stays with a double crankset, with some small adjustments, the 8 speed FD will work fine.

Some info here:
Shimano Dura-Ace Compatibility

Check out both the _Chainring_ and _Derailleur_ sections.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

If the only problem you have is the thumb button upshift, which you can't reach from the drops, the cheapest fix would be to pick up a set of Microshift 8 speed shifters. I have them, and they're much easier to use than 2300. Small lever shifts up, big lever shifts down, and you can easily reach the small lever from the drops.

No problems whatsoever in 5000+ miles. Work flawlessly with 2300 FD and RD.

Hoods are more ergonomic, too.

Unless you're planning on weekend rides in central or western Mass, where you have real hills, there's nothing in the Boston area, or on Long Island, that you can't handle with an 8 speed 12-25 cassette. Don't get caught up in the "more is better" trap.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mpre53 said:


> If the only problem you have is the thumb button upshift, which you can't reach from the drops, the cheapest fix would be to pick up a set of Microshift 8 speed shifters. I have them, and they're much easier to use than 2300. Small lever shifts up, big lever shifts down, and you can easily reach the small lever from the drops.
> 
> No problems whatsoever in 5000+ miles. Work flawlessly with 2300 FD and RD.
> 
> ...


Good suggestions, IMO. And if the OP opted for 9 speed, there are also re-badged Microshifts sold by Performance and Nashbar:
Forté 9-speed Dual Control Levers - Road Bike Shifters

Nashbar 9-Speed Dual Control Levers - Road Bike Shifters


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> That's incorrect. The OP's RD is perfectly compatible with 8,9,10 speed drivetrains. The cable 'pull' is dictated by the STI's which (as stated) would need to be changed.
> 
> As long as he stays with a double crankset, with some small adjustments, the 8 speed FD will work fine.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the input. So, all I would need (if I were to upgrade to 9-Speed Tiagra shifters) are: 9-speed cassette, 9 speed chain, and the new shifters?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YOLO said:


> Thanks for the input. So, all I would need (if I were to upgrade to 9-Speed Tiagra shifters) are: 9-speed cassette, 9 speed chain, and the new shifters?


That's correct.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> That's correct.


Sorry for all the questions :/
Is the 8 speed 2300 rear derailleur intended to be compatible with a 9-speed cassette/chain? Or does it just happen to "work out" that way?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YOLO said:


> Sorry for all the questions :/
> Is the 8 speed 2300 rear derailleur intended to be compatible with a 9-speed cassette/chain? Or does it just happen to "work out" that way?


If you look at the Index Interchangeability Chart in the link I provided, you'll see that any 1997 or later Shimano Rear Derailer or: any S.I.S. Rear Derailer *except* pre-1997 Dura-Ace and Dyna-Sys series will work for 6 thru 10 speed drivetrains. 

Whether it's intended or just 'works out' is arguable, but the bottom line is you'll save some money because your RD will work with your intended upgrade. 

BTW, no extra charge for questions. :wink5:


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> If you look at the Index Interchangeability Chart in the link I provided, you'll see that any 1997 or later Shimano Rear Derailer or: any S.I.S. Rear Derailer *except* pre-1997 Dura-Ace and Dyna-Sys series will work for 6 thru 10 speed drivetrains.
> 
> Whether it's intended or just 'works out' is arguable, but the bottom line is you'll save some money because your RD will work with your intended upgrade.
> 
> BTW, no extra charge for questions. :wink5:



Thanks so much! This changes things--the total cost of this upgrade has decreased to around $90 for a slightly used pair of Tiagra ST-4500 shifters, a new 9 speed 12-27 cassette, and a new chain.


EDIT: Sorry, I meant $90! I had previously put $65.


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

YOLO said:


> Thanks so much! This changes things--the total cost of this upgrade has decreased to around $65 for a slightly used pair of Tiagra ST-4500 shifters, a new 9 speed 12-27 cassette, and a new chain.


Are you getting the shifters from someone you know? I would change my mind for a good price on 9 speed shifters, even Microshift - vendors have them going for much more.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

.je said:


> Are you getting the shifters from someone you know? I would change my mind for a good price on 9 speed shifters, even Microshift - vendors have them going for much more.



Lol, just some dude on Craigslist. Sure, the pricing seems a bit crazy, but he appears to be knowledgeable about his biking gear.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YOLO said:


> Thanks so much! This changes things--the total cost of this upgrade has decreased to around $90 for a slightly used pair of Tiagra ST-4500 shifters, a new 9 speed 12-27 cassette, and a new chain.
> 
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, I meant $90! I had previously put $65.


Considering what's included, that's a _very_ good price. 

Before committing, be as sure as possible that everything (but particularly the shifters) is in good mechanical condition. Just a FYI, the STI's aren't serviceable.


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## tinfoilhat (May 16, 2010)

Have just a couple of quick comments here. If this bike fits you it is a very fine starter road bike. I realize that 2300 level components are not sexy, but they work quite well. There is no need to change any part that is doing its job properly. The only money I would consider spending is on upgraded tires, and if you are feeling really flush, wheels. 
You will learn a lot about cycling over the next few years, and the way you ride, what you ride, and what is important to you may change along the way. As far as learning about wrenching goes, pick up a copy of Zinn's book and clean and maintain the heck out of your current ride. A Specialized Allez is a pretty great first bike. Enjoy it!


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> Just a FYI, the STI's aren't serviceable.


Good point. And before you commit, make sure that your dislike of the thumb shift button is based on experience rather than internet opinions. Many people who claim to hate those buttons for their inaccessibility from the drops never ride on the drops. If I had $90 burning in my pocket, I'd buy two first-rate tires and two light-weight tubes.


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

I think some of the interest in a $60 - $200 brifter upgrade comes from the options when a bike like this one is new at the LBS. You can get the one here for about $700, or get the same frame and wheels that already have Tiagra shifters and mech, and not much else, for $300 - $500 more.

Be cautious though, many times the used brifters are pretty much close to dead, flushing them doesn't cure them, that's why they're being offloaded. I found that out, cost me about $30 after everything, to get a few weeks of hit/miss shifting.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

.je said:


> I think some of the interest in a $60 - $200 brifter upgrade comes from the options when a bike like this one is new at the LBS. You can get the one here for about $700, or get the same frame and wheels that already have Tiagra shifters and mech, and not much else, for $300 - $500 more.


That's definitely true. But you also need to see this in the light of the Sora thumb-button stigma: To people coming into the sport and gathering information from the internet, the button screams "noob" or "tourist" because pros don't ride with Shimano thumb button shifters. So the dislike is often an image- or status thing more than anything else.


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

I have the thumb shifters. 

Ive ridden thousands of km in the past 2 years. They're just fine, but they're an extra set of actions when you haven't set yourself up ahead of time. My biggest frustration is that the controls for the same function are too far apart and too different in motion and execution, and then, stupidly inconvenient to use when they're needed. For easy riding, they're no problem, for fast riding, they are really noticeable. Having both levers next to each other and actuating the same way is simpler for every step, and it's easier to do. 

Taking that a lot further, you create one of these, which many people revere and adore for those reasons.
View attachment 273156


It seems as if someone actually made a point to design something awkward and slightly confusing just to spite you. Maybe you'll up-sell faster this way, maybe that person wanted you to hate the company, or maybe they hate you personally. Designers are usually pretty strange people (I was one, and still know many). It doesn't help that they're the low end of Shimano's quality range, so they require a lot of motion, and the brifter's action is loose and not precise through their operating range. Even Shimano got away from this design as soon as they could, it seems. All of the above I find preferable to what I had before, which was to reach down by my knee and move a little lever by feel just enough to change a gear, but not too far that it would rattle onto the next one after that.

We're roadies, though, so we complain about anything. We'd complain about free ice cream being slightly the wrong colour. Ive heard roadies complain that their unlimited free beer was a little bit bitter and hoppy.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

.je said:


> It doesn't help that they're the low end of Shimano's quality range, so they require a lot of motion, and the brifter's action is loose and not precise through their operating range.


This (ultimately) being the OP's decision, I'm not advocating for anything in particular, but (FWIW) the quote above is my main gripe with 2300/ pre- 2013 Sora shifters. Simply, too much play in the mechanism. 



.je said:


> All of the above I find preferable to what I had before, which was to reach down by my knee and move a little lever by feel just enough to change a gear, but not too far that it would rattle onto the next one after that.


lol... puts things in perspective....


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

Have you tried out the new Sora? The function is easy to use with the 2 levers, but it seemed to me that the lever materials, and action range, and force/function click noises in the housing, were almost exactly the same as the thumb-lever models (which are by any means bad, just not pleasant, esp. for the price they make you pay).


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks for all the input everyone! The few of you who have helped me out have certainly changed my opinion about this forum.



wim said:


> Good point. And before you commit, make sure that your dislike of the thumb shift button is based on experience rather than internet opinions. Many people who claim to hate those buttons for their inaccessibility from the drops never ride on the drops. If I had $90 burning in my pocket, I'd buy two first-rate tires and two light-weight tubes.



Yes, the dislike is from my own observations. I've been riding around with these thumb shifters and the whole shifting motion just serves to detract from my riding experience. It is clear that the thumb buttons create breaks in a motion that (to me) should be seamless and fluid. I went to a shop in the city the other day and tried out the Allez Sport Compact with Sora 3500 shifters--these shifters were quick and pleasant to use. I can only imagine how similar the Tiagra shifters will be. 

As for wheels/tubes--they are holding up quite nicely. I mean, I have no experience with road bikes, so the tires here are infinitely better than those on my terrible mountain bike. But if I were to change them, what brands/types should I be looking at? 

Thanks again


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

YOLO said:


> The tires here are infinitely better than those on my terrible mountain bike. But if I were to change them, what brands/types should I be looking at? Thanks again


Yolo, there so many good tires/tubes out there. I like Vittoria Rubino Pro tires and Michelin Airstop tubes. If you shop around, you should get those tires and tubes all for about $90.

It's not so much about the tires and tubes holding up nicely, but about the ride. Good tires and tubes are an improvement you feel immediately—not in speed, but in the enjoyment of the ride.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YOLO said:


> ... I went to a shop in the city the other day and tried out the Allez Sport Compact with Sora 3500 shifters--these shifters were quick and pleasant to use. I can only imagine how similar the Tiagra shifters will be.


I agree with your assessment of the ST-3500 shifters. Shimano seems to have dialed out the 'slop' I mentioned previously. Tiagra 9 speed will be comparable (if not slightly more refined), but the new Tiagra 4600 (10 speed) is better yet. Not advocating these upgrades, simply offering an opinion based on my experiences. 



YOLO said:


> *As for wheels/tubes*--they are holding up quite nicely. I mean, I have no experience with road bikes, so the tires here are infinitely better than those on my terrible mountain bike. But *if I were to change them, what brands/types should I be looking at?*
> 
> Thanks again


FWIW, I agree with wim's assessment of good quality tires/ tubes. My recommendations would be Continental (standard) tubes and their GP 4000/ 4000s tires. A great combo IMO/E.

Also, along with tire recommendations, consider your riding style, weight, road conditions (among other factors) and choose a size/ tailor tires pressures accordingly. I'm a light rider and still opt for 25c's run at lower pressures.


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## YOLO (Jan 4, 2013)

Hi guys, here for a quick update.
It turns out I was unable to get the shifters. I took a friend with me (who kinda knows his bike stuff) and met up with the dude.

Upon inspection of the shifters, it became clear that he was selling the Tiagra 4500 break levers, but he did in fact have the 4600 front and rear derailleurs. Plus, he was only going to sell them in a set, when I clearly indicated that I was only interested in the shifters. I ended up just saying thank you and leaving :/

I am a little turned off by this incident, but I will continued to ride with the stock 2300 shifters.

Now, what if I were to upgrade to 105 (5600 or 5700) shifters--would the upgrade process still be the same? All I'd need to do is change the shifters, chain and cassette, correct?

LOL, I'm not looking to upgrade until I find a right price, but I am just asking for future reference.

Thanks in advance


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YOLO said:


> Now, what if I were to upgrade to 105 (5600 or 5700) shifters--would the upgrade process still be the same? All I'd need to do is change the shifters, chain and cassette, correct?


Yes, the upgrade process remains the same. New 105 shifters, 10 speed chain and 10 speed cassette.


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