# Is the Motobecane Mirage Tri a good first road bike? Using a $550 budget:(



## Doctor (Sep 26, 2013)

Save Up To 60% Off Road Bikes - Motobecane Mirage Pro

Does this bike have the best spec compared to the other $550 bikes on the site?

I don't anything about bike spec ranking.


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

Personally...I'd plop $200 more in the pot and pick up this one:

Save up to 60% off new Road Bikes - Gravity Comp20 | Save up to 60% off new road bikes

The 105 group is a much better value than the 2400 series (actually...WAY better value and well worth $200). Second, the bike you linked isnt really a "tri bike"...mostly, a road bike with crummy Tri-like handlebars. Unless you really plan on getting down in aero position much, I'd advise against that setup. If you look at real tri-bikes, its not just the handlebars that makes them an aero frame.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

A good first bike is one that fits both your intended uses and anatomy, so unless tri's are going to be your focus, no tri bike is a good first bike. 

That said, the Moto is tri in name only. The geometry is pure race, with a slightly taller head tube. 

As far as the best bike for the price on BD's site, IMO at similar price points, they're all similar. Their calling is generally upgraded shifters, but the trade off is not being able to assess fit/ ride/ handling beforehand. Buying online is best left to the more experienced. 

For these reasons, I'd suggest keeping your search local (some LBS's carry used). CL, community newspapers, etc. are sources. Buying private, before committing to the purchase, I'd ask the seller to bring the bike to a LBS for mechanical/ fit assessment. Also, they can generally provide a ballpark to a bikes value.


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> A good first bike is one that fits both your intended uses and anatomy, so unless tri's are going to be your focus, no tri bike is a good first bike.
> 
> That said, the Moto is tri in name only. The geometry is pure race, with a slightly taller head tube.
> 
> ...


This is the best advice...but will probably land up costing more $$. granted, that extra $$ will get you a much better package.

The problem with road bikes is fit. It can literally make or break you. Getting older, not being 14 years old anymore, we aren't as stout as we once were. An incorrect fit can literally hurt you...do it long enough and it can damage body parts.

Randomly picking a road bike off of the internet is not a good idea unless, like PJ said, you know exactly what to look for...and even then it's not 100% unless you've physically taken the bike out and spent time on it.

If you're looking for a short ride bike, you'll probably be fine with what I listed. If you plan on eventually spending hours on that saddle, you'll need to make sure the fit is right first.


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## Doctor (Sep 26, 2013)

Typetwelve said:


> This is the best advice...but will probably land up costing more $$. granted, that extra $$ will get you a much better package.
> 
> The problem with road bikes is fit. It can literally make or break you. Getting older, not being 14 years old anymore, we aren't as stout as we once were. An incorrect fit can literally hurt you...do it long enough and it can damage body parts.
> 
> ...


Not too sure if I want to go 800 bucks cause I'm pretty scared of thief even thought I got the NYC Kryro Lock. Maybe Shimano 105 geared bike will be my next bike in a few year. If no one steal can the one I'm planning to get. 

Well I'm 5'10 and I did all those measurements and I'm pretty sure I am in the 54-56cm range. Do I need to take into account anything else beside the frame? and I stop growing already
So this bike , I just take off the extra bars and it becomes a road bike?

Thanks for the advice guys!


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

Doctor said:


> Not too sure if I want to go 800 bucks cause I'm pretty scared of thief even thought I got the NYC Kryro Lock. Maybe Shimano 105 geared bike will be my next bike in a few year. If no one steal can the one I'm planning to get.
> 
> Well I'm 5'10 and I did all those measurements and I'm pretty sure I am in the 54-56cm range. Do I need to take into account anything else beside the frame? and I stop growing already
> So this bike , I just take off the extra bars and it becomes a road bike?
> ...


I'm 6' flat ad I ride a 56...at 5' 10''...I'd say a 54 may be better for you...

As for the $200 difference...personally, I'd risk it, the group set is really that much better (trust me on this one...the 105 set is great, reliable stuff). You 100% do not want to get the cheaper rig, ride it, decide you despise the 2400 stuff then be screwed and have to either pay WAY more for a 105 set to upgrade...or have do drop $800+ on a new bike. My buddy did that, bought a 2400 bike...rode it 250 miles or so, despised it and landed up with an Ultegra set bike...the 2400 bike (a 2013 Specialized Allez) just sits and collects dust.


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

Doctor said:


> Well I'm 5'10 and I did all those measurements and I'm pretty sure I am in the 54-56cm range. Do I need to take into account anything else beside the frame? and I stop growing already
> So this bike , I just take off the extra bars and it becomes a road bike?
> 
> Thanks for the advice guys!


Not trying to warn you off BD (I own one myself and enjoy it greatly), but there's more to it than your height. The best way I'd tell you to go is to go to a good LBS (can be a little hard to find) and have a fit done. Might cost around $100, but then you'll know for sure just what sizes (yes, multiple) you need. On the site they are giving you a ballpark based on the average person, but it's better to go by the geometry charts. Since you say this is your first road bike, you have no frame of reference to judge your comfort, which is why you'd be well served to get a fit from the shop before buying from BD (or anybody else new or used for that matter). Also once you have definitely learned your sizing needs there are other sites you can look (like BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping and Bike Shop Warehouse | Home Page) at since at this time of the year BD starts selling out of frames and (in years past) won't be restocking before January.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I second junior's advice. Paying for a fitting upfront will not only safeguard your interests in getting sizing right, it may ultimately save you money because you either 1) won't be stuck riding an ill fitting bike, 2) reselling an ill fitting bike. or 3) reship the bike, but at your expense, so there goes 1/2 the cost of the fitting.

I'd suggest not raising your budget on a first bike. You don't yet know if you'll stick with the sport, and (as you say) theft is an issue. IMO, that lends credibility to buying used and keeping to your budget.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

Typetwelve said:


> Getting older, not being 14 years old anymore, we aren't as stout as we once were.


Actually, most are MORE stout than they once were.


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

Kerry Irons said:


> Actually, most are MORE stout than they once were.


LOL...I guess I should have used the word "sturdy" huh? Yeah...at 36, I am only 5 lbs off of my weight in high school (167 then, 172 now) but at 34 years old, I was 270+...so I guess I was WAY more stout...


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## Doctor (Sep 26, 2013)

I forgot to mention that the roads where I live are very flat , there so little steep hills , I doubt I will be shifting gears that often. With that said you think my shifters are enough? The 105 seems overkill for me.

Also I'm not really looking to compete for any placement in a triathlon. Just want a smooth ride that can get me thru many miles.

I just measured myself and here are the results are from this site
Bike Fit Calculator | Find Your Bike Size | Competitive Cyclist


top tube length
55.5 - 55.9 cm
seat tube range CC
52.2 - 52.7 cm
seat tube range CT
53.8 - 54.3 cm
stem length
10.4 - 11 cm
BB saddle position
66.5 - 68.5 cm
saddle handlebar
55.6 - 56.2 cm
saddle setback
7 - 7.4 cm
seatpost type
setback




Does the number really have to be .5 cm + - (Margin so small), or is this just for custom bikes frames?


Inseam 31 in 
Trunk 26 in 
Forearm 14 in 
Arm 27.5 in 
Thigh 24 in 
Lower leg 20 in 
Sternal notch 58.2 in 
Total height 70 in

So what do you think guys , this bike good enough?
Thanks for the help guys!!!


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Doctor said:


> Well I'm 5'10 and I did all those measurements and I'm pretty sure I am in the 54-56cm range. Do I need to take into account anything else beside the frame? and I stop growing already So this bike , I just take off the extra bars and it becomes a road bike?


I think you're pretty much spot on. An inseam of 31 inches is short for someone 5'10" tall, so I would go with the 54 cm bike. But if that inseam is just a pants size, you might want to measure your actual "pubic bone height." A larger bike (the 56 cm in your case) makes it a little easier to get the handlebar level with the saddle, which is not a bad thing for beginning riders.

The components are fine—can't agree with the push for Shimano 105. Also, 105 ain't what it used to be. In my view, the new 105 has a cheap feel to it, especially the shifters.

Don't overthink this, like these on-line calculators often encourage you to do. Bit of a contrary view to everyone else here, but I see too many complications being raised here. Get the bike, take the aero bars off and start riding.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

wim said:


> I think you're pretty much spot on. An inseam of 31 inches is short for someone 5'10" tall, so I would go with the 54 cm bike. But if that inseam is just a pants size, you might want to measure your actual "pubic bone height." A larger bike (the 56 cm in your case) makes it a little easier to get the handlebar level with the saddle, which is not a bad thing for beginning riders.
> 
> The components are fine—can't agree with the push for Shimano 105. Also, 105 ain't what it used to be. In my view, the new 105 has a cheap feel to it, especially the shifters.
> 
> Don't overthink this, like these on-line calculators often encourage you to do. Bit of a contrary view to everyone else here, but I see too many complications being raised here. Get the bike, take the aero bars off and start riding.


Gotta disagree on this. The OP doesn't seem sure of his measurements/ proportions (and really, that's just part of the sizing story), so I think a standard fitting at a reputable shop will better his odds of getting a correctly sized bike from BD. 

I've seen riders around his height riding 52's, 54's, 56's... and that says nothing of the fact that manufacturers methods of determining frame size varies.

OP: Since online bikes need final assembly, tuning and fitting, the best option may be to be upfront with the LBS, tell them your intentions and that you'll tap them as a resource for assembly, etc. They may just waive the fitting charge.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> Gotta disagree on this.


Yes, I sorta knew you would and anticipated it with my "bit of a contrary view." Your points are all good. I was just afraid the OP will get "research paralysis" or be steered onto the seat of a bicycle he really can't afford by a well-meaning but also clever LBS.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

wim said:


> Yes, *I sorta knew you would* and anticipated it with my "bit of a contrary view." Your points are all good. I was just afraid the OP will get "research paralysis" or be steered onto the seat of a bicycle he really can't afford by a well-meaning but also clever LBS.


Oh, God, I've become predictable!! 

Point taken on the "research paralysis" that's all too often seen here on RBR. 

In this price range, I still think a good option for the OP is the local, used market. Can still safeguard interests by having the bike checked over at a LBS.


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

Doctor said:


> I forgot to mention that the roads where I live are very flat , there so little steep hills , I doubt I will be shifting gears that often. With that said you think my shifters are enough? The 105 seems overkill for me.
> 
> Also I'm not really looking to compete for any placement in a triathlon. Just want a smooth ride that can get me thru many miles.
> 
> ...


Armed with those numbers, go to BD's Website and click the geometry chart. Compare the numbers you need with what sizes they offer. Your ETT (estimated top tube) will be your primary indicator balanced by your stand over. When in doubt the ETT is more important (IMO others may/will disagree) than stand over height. That is a far, far, far better way of choosing the right size than "Well since you're 5'10" you should have a 56cm, trust me". 

I'd also suggest copying down your numbers and going to a LBS, explaining your situation, and asking if they have any bikes in that size you could throw a leg over, to get a feel for that size. If they're reasonable people they may well help you out for free (but then again they may not, it's a crap shoot). I won't tell you one way or the other if that bike is right for you or not, I'd rather tell you how to choose the right size and such (as best as I know how), so you can get what you want and need without having to hear all the "That bike is crap, you need ....", or "You want one of that brand? Just flush your money and be done with it!" that you see in many of the threads.


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## Doctor (Sep 26, 2013)

junior1210 said:


> Armed with those numbers, go to BD's Website and click the geometry chart. Compare the numbers you need with what sizes they offer. Your ETT (estimated top tube) will be your primary indicator balanced by your stand over. When in doubt the ETT is more important (IMO others may/will disagree) than stand over height. That is a far, far, far better way of choosing the right size than "Well since you're 5'10" you should have a 56cm, trust me".
> 
> I'd also suggest copying down your numbers and going to a LBS, explaining your situation, and asking if they have any bikes in that size you could throw a leg over, to get a feel for that size. If they're reasonable people they may well help you out for free (but then again they may not, it's a crap shoot). I won't tell you one way or the other if that bike is right for you or not, I'd rather tell you how to choose the right size and such (as best as I know how), so you can get what you want and need without having to hear all the "That bike is crap, you need ....", or "You want one of that brand? Just flush your money and be done with it!" that you see in many of the threads.


Ok I am going to try to check out my LBS , 
Not that good of a experience with my other friend. 
Going go with you on 56 , 
Thanks


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Doctor said:


> Going go with you on 56 Thanks


I think junior1210 suggested that it's better *not* to take any size recommendations based only on your height. His "56" was an example only.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

junior1210 said:


> I'd also suggest copying down your numbers and going to a LBS, explaining your situation, and asking if they have any bikes in that size you could throw a leg over, to get a feel for that size. If they're reasonable people they may well help you out for free (but then again they may not..


Good suggestion. Taking the Moto geo chart numbers with you gives the LBS fitter a source to compare 'test bikes' geo (bikes you use for a sizing reference) to. 

Bottom line, don't underestimate the importance of getting the right sized bike. Tweaks can always be made to fit, but sizing errors can't be fixed. I've tolerated riding ill fitting bikes over the years. I was younger then, and it still wasn't fun.


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