# Question on 1x setup for CX



## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

So I have a 2015 Giant TCX SL. Bike is full 105 11spd with the hydro disc brakes.

Went to a CX practice last night and really not liking the shifting performance while on the course. If I was in the small ring the chain had to much un-tensioned slack that would cause it to bounce around on the cassette, putting it into the big ring helped some but then I was having to muscle it on everything.

So as I was talking to one of the local racers that I know who is a mechanic for one of the LBS. He has his stuff setup on the new SRAM CX1 stuff along with both of his kids. Setup sounds great but wont work for me since Shimano stuff isn't able to have a MTB RD on their road shifters.

So I went ahead and ordered a R/F 110BCD 40T ring so I convert over to 1x. 

Any solutions to try and reduce the chain slap on the 105 RD or do I just have to deal with it? Not looking to spend a fortune to swap over to SRAM stuff and don't really want to give up the hydro disc brakes as that is part of the reason why I spent the money and got the nicest aluminum CX bike Giant made.

Either way thanks for the info and help, thinking after last nights CX practice that CX may be a new type of fun for me.


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## sagatme (Jul 28, 2015)

If you don't want to buy Sram CX1 I can advice to you to buy a chainring designed to run 1x... Wolftooth, RaceFace, Sram, Rotor... You can choose one of their single ring with special teeth to avoid chain drop. I have used a wolftooth 36T with Ultegra 11s in last 2 seasons.
Just make shorter the chain to increase tension, if you use 11speed will work good even without a special rear derailleur. Now in my new Giant I have directly installed a Force CX1, just 'cause I wanted something new on my bike :-D


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

If you are getting chain slap and your chain is jumping on the cogs.....99.9999% chance your chain is too long


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

If the chain is too long then it was that way from the factory from Giant, I have yet to break this chain on the bike.

I went with the R/F NW 40T ring, I use their rings on both mine and my wifes MTB and they have worked well for me. No chain drops, but both of those bikes have clutched RD's on them.

Good to know I was on the right track with just shortening the chain some to add some tension. I will prob do the chain thru the big cassette and ring +2 links method and see if it helps.

Thanks once again guys.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

I think it's a mistake to go 1x at this stage of the game. Do NOT go 1x without a front chainkeeper.

Shorten the chain if you still have slack in the big/big gear. See the photos on Park Tool as a guide:
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Length Sizing


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## bikerector (Oct 31, 2012)

I agree with others, sounds like chain could be too long. Going 1x doesn't eliminate chainslap either though it does reduce it some. I recommend wrapping the chainstay if you haven't already.


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## Corndog (Jan 18, 2006)

If your chain was too long (which it sounds like it was) with the 2x setup... it's WAY too long for a 1x setup. 

1. Shorten the chain... break the chain, shift to the biggest cog on your cassette and size it so the chain is tight. I like to see a bit of an "S" bend to the chain still. Chain tension will help a ton in retention and "slap". 

2. You've got a NW ring, so you're really most likely OK with regard to dropping the chain. Even without a clutch RD. But, an inner chain keeper is really cheap, light, and good insurance. I like the N gear one or the Pauls if you want retention on both sides. 

3. you can change the position of the spring in the RD to give it more tension. It's a fairly easy job, but attention to detail is required. This probably isn't needed. 

4. Enjoy your Shimano hydro brakes. SO much better than Sram


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

1x is already in motion, ordered the ring yesterday. Once I do the install I will address the chain length at that time. Chain stay is already wrapped from the factory with clear vinyl protection, worse case I will get one of the neoprene wraps.

I will do some research on chain keepers in the mean time.


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## kcb203 (Mar 19, 2009)

pretender said:


> I think it's a mistake to go 1x at this stage of the game. Do NOT go 1x without a front chainkeeper.
> 
> Shorten the chain if you still have slack in the big/big gear. See the photos on Park Tool as a guide:
> Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Length Sizing


I built a frankenbike last year with Shimano R785 braking/Di2 rear shifting, and a SRAM CX1 crankset with no FD or chainkeeper. Haven't dropped a chain yet.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

kcb203 said:


> I built a frankenbike last year with Shimano R785 braking/Di2 rear shifting, and a SRAM CX1 crankset with no FD or chainkeeper. Haven't dropped a chain yet.


Good for you. I've seen enough failures to know it doesn't make sense for people who want to go fast down bumpy descents.


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## OnTheRivet (Sep 3, 2004)

pretender said:


> Good for you. I've seen enough failures to know it doesn't make sense for people who want to go fast down bumpy descents.


I was skeptical of 1x stuff for a while but I have 1 race seasons on two MTB's (XC and Trail) running XX1 and season racing on CX1, all using Wolf Tooth front rings and have had zero front chain drops. I ride pretty hard. The one caveat is it's typically dry here so that may change things if you race in the mud.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

OnTheRivet said:


> I was skeptical of 1x stuff for a while but I have 1 race seasons on two MTB's (XC and Trail) running XX1 and season racing on CX1, all using Wolf Tooth front rings and have had zero front chain drops. I ride pretty hard. The one caveat is it's typically dry here so that may change things if you race in the mud.


Both your rigs have clutch derailleurs.

My comment (a little snarky, in retrospect) was about running a standard derailleur with a narrow-wide single ring and no other chain retention. I've seen them fail myself, and I've read similar stories online i.e. It worked great all summer and then in the first race of the season...

Most of the time a dropped chain is not a catastrophic mechanical, but if it gets wrapped around the BB it's a full-on bummer.


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

In the back of my mind the dropped chain is there, bums me that Shimano tries so hard to be difficult on their systems. I wish I could do a Shimano system of road shifters to MTB RD but unless I am willing to go Di2 that isn't an option.


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## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

Just leave your FD on but not connected for a chainkeeper. My frankenbike has a Raceface NW and Force rear, and I haven't dropped a chain yet. I was going to get a clutch RD if I had problems, but I haven't yet. Maybe I'm not riding rough enough terrain. Or I'm too slow.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

TJay74 said:


> In the back of my mind the dropped chain is there, bums me that Shimano tries so hard to be difficult on their systems. I wish I could do a Shimano system of road shifters to MTB RD but unless I am willing to go Di2 that isn't an option.


It looks like an N-Gear Jump Stop would fit on the Giant? It's pretty cheap and light insurance against dumping the chain on the inside. I used one when I was running 1x10.


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

I just found that Giant has a chain keeper on the TCX Advanced Pro version of my bike, going to see if the LBS can order me one in.


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## ds2199 (Nov 8, 2009)

*1x for CX*

I tried what the OP is wanting to do on my Pivot Vault. Started as 11sp Ultegra 2x. Went with a NW 40t chainring and kept the Ultegra deraileur. I had a few dropped chains.

I have now swapped out Shimano for SRAM. Bought a Clutch X.9 deraileur and a Force 22 right hand shifter and a left hand brake lever. It works perfect and way cheaper than CX1. 

Actually still using the Ultegra 11 sp cassette, but I'll likely switch to SRAM when I need a new cassette - but is shifts perfectly and no dropped chains with the NW chairing AND Clutch deraileur.


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

TJay74 said:


> I just found that Giant has a chain keeper on the TCX Advanced Pro version of my bike, going to see if the LBS can order me one in.


Lemme just say that the Jump Stop costs $10, is widely available, comes in 3 different clamp sizes, and is time-tested. I reckon special-ordering a Giant-branded gadget will take longer and cost more.


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## twiggy (Mar 23, 2004)

pretender said:


> Lemme just say that the Jump Stop costs $10, is widely available, comes in 3 different clamp sizes, and is time-tested. I reckon special-ordering a Giant-branded gadget will take longer and cost more.


The TCX has a proprietary (ie: weird) shaped downtube....he'd have to buy the one that mounts to the front derailleur bracket.....since this is removable on the tcx I'm assuming the Giant one likely mounts to the eyelets for the front derailleur mount and gives him a cleaner look?


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

Correct, the Giant one is only $21 to me and is designed to fit the bike with no modifications.


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## twiggy (Mar 23, 2004)

TJay74 said:


> Correct, the Giant one is only $21 to me and is designed to fit the bike with no modifications.


I kinda want one; but since I installed a CX-1 drivetrain I haven't dropped the chain once yet!


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

Got the 1x conversion fully setup last night and got to test it out at a CX clinic I go to each week. The Giant chain guide is so simple it is amazing. Just had to remove the FD mount from the frame, the chain guide bolts to the FD mount on the tube, then adjust the chain guide and tighten 3 bolts down and it is set.

It covers the inner side, the top and the outer side of the chain. No issues at all last night at the clinic, had some minor chain slap as I got into the higher gears while running over rough terrain, but nothing that caused any issues. I don't have any more room to remove links from the chain or else the RD will be to its limit. I may look at the spring tension option on it down the road.

Still playing with tire pressure, I am using the stock wheels that are tubeless. Started at 28psi based on some recommendations but it was too low. Tires were way to flexible, in the turns it felt like they were trying to roll over and off of the rim. Rode on the MTB dirt crit trail we use and confirmed it as the rims were hitting on the roots and hard edges. Bumped it up to 33psi rear and 32psi front for now, felt a lot better after that on the trail and during the CX clinic.

Now trying to decide if maybe a Di2 mix of the road shifters and a XTR RD would make this the perfect setup, that or swap over to SRAM hydro/mechanical shifters and the CX1 or XX1 RD.

For now just going to try this out and then go from there, wheels are on the upgrade list for after the new year. As of now the bike is sitting at 19.8lbs. Wheels will drop it down to maybe a little under 19lbs.


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