# Park Tool PRS-20......freakin sweet



## Dcmkx2000 (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks for all the help deciding on a stand. It is a tank, no plastic=long life. Ordered some Park Tool tools as well. I'm sure they will be quality just like the stand.


----------



## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

Yep, work well but weight a Tonne


----------



## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Cut.Aussie said:


> Yep, work well but weight a Tonne


Weight is no issue. Its a workstand. You dont put it in a jersey pocket.


----------



## bernithebiker (Sep 26, 2011)

For a stand, more weight = better.


----------



## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

I love mine. Slightly fussy for the quick jobs and for cleanups, but dead solid and great to work on.

Also a little fussy switching between bikes with radically different front-centers (or chainstay lengths, if working on the front.) But a sharpie marker on the beam makes quick work of that problem.


----------



## Elpimpo (Jan 16, 2012)

@dcmxx2000 & @danl1

Im currently in the market for a Bottom Bracket type stand.

Question: 
Is it sturdy enough to crank a bolt without having to hold the bike for leverage?
I ask because my bikes are all white and maintenance usually means washing/wiping.

Also, say i bump into it while a bike is on it, whats the chance it'll fall over?


----------



## Dcmkx2000 (Mar 18, 2010)

Elpimpo said:


> @dcmxx2000 & @danl1
> 
> Im currently in the market for a Bottom Bracket type stand.
> 
> ...



This is the only stand I have ever used, but I would have to say yes on both accounts.


----------



## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

Elpimpo said:


> @dcmxx2000 & @danl1
> 
> Im currently in the market for a Bottom Bracket type stand.
> 
> ...


It has a strap that clips around the bottom bracket. It ain't gonna fall over. 

And yes you can do complete bike builds with this stand. I've built two myself. Works on everything from my road, mtb, 29er....ect. And the stand is more than sturdy, but the feature I like is that I can spin it around while I'm in a chair to work on both sides and when I'm done it folds up compact to store away.


----------



## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

just wish I'd bought mine 5 years earlier.

allows lots of torque on stubborn BB's with no problem.

sits out on my deck all summer for work and washing bikes.


----------



## Elpimpo (Jan 16, 2012)

heathb said:


> the feature I like is that I can spin it around while I'm in a chair to work on both sides and when I'm done it folds up compact to store away.


Park owes you $170. You just sold it.


----------



## Gearhead65 (Jan 23, 2010)

I've used other stands and have the PRS-20 now. Absolutely best stand I've ever owned. Really like that it is not touching any appearance paint.


----------



## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Elpimpo said:


> @dcmxx2000 & @danl1
> 
> Im currently in the market for a Bottom Bracket type stand.
> 
> ...


Much moreso than any clamp-style stand, and less likely to fall over, save for the ones bolted to the floor.


----------



## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

I have a 20 year old folding Park seat tube type folding stand. It has never fallen over or prevented me from performing any maintenance. 

What is the appeal of these BB stands that don't allow you to make headset, front wheel true or front brake adjustments?


----------



## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

Kontact said:


> I have a 20 year old folding Park seat tube type folding stand. It has never fallen over or prevented me from performing any maintenance.
> 
> What is the appeal of these BB stands that don't allow you to make headset, front wheel true or front brake adjustments?



You can reverse the bike and put the QR in the rear dropouts and leave the front wheel on. However You can't leave both wheels on at the same time, so that might be one point taken away. 

As far as truing I use the TS2 wheel truing stand and park dishing tool and head set work these days is pretty much a joke with pretty much everything being integrated bearings. And as far as brake pad adjustments the Parks BB stand allows you to put the brake pads at eye level for aligning and toeing, but you do have to flip the bike when you want to do the next wheel.


----------



## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Kontact said:


> I have a 20 year old folding Park seat tube type folding stand. It has never fallen over or prevented me from performing any maintenance.
> 
> What is the appeal of these BB stands that don't allow you to make headset, front wheel true or front brake adjustments?


They allow all of those things - just hook the bike up the other way 'round. Freedom to spin the bike around and work from all sides easily is handy.

can't easily adjust a headset when the fork is hanging free, anyway - IMO, they are best adjusted on the ground. It's actually quite easy to do headset adjustments while on these in a normal configuration. 

Truing stands are for truing wheels. Sure, you can do a quickie on the bike, but in a flopping-around fork? More hassle than it's worth, IMO. 

Some point to front brakes, and getting the bike loaded on these is more fussy than a clamp stand. If I'm really working on the bike, I prefer this, a clamp stand if I'm just doing a quick clean-and-lube. Just a much more solid connection without either the worries of clamping (if using a frame tube) or the long moment arm making things sway about (if using the seatpin.) In a lot of high-torque situations on a clamp stand, you end up working with one hand and using the other to keep the bike steady. These give you both hands free.


----------



## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

Fair enough.

I will say though that a fork or rear dropouts make better truing stands than any of the cheapies I've tried. Good brakes hold center from a model dished wheel and the fork or dropouts locate the wheel solidly. I've built 4 pairs of wheels in frames dangling from a seat pin work stand, as well as built and overhauled several bikes before I went back to working for a shop.


----------



## mudrock (Jun 4, 2008)

I've had mine 4-5 years and my only nitpick is you have to remove the front wheel for a quickee job, but other designs have to clamp the seatpost ( so you don't mar the paint/decals) and then your bike is unbalanced. the bike is solid in the PRS20 and you can spin it around. To me that's really cool - I use that feature all the time. 

A tip: grind down your front fork lawyer tabs so wheel removal is faster.


----------



## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

Kontact said:


> Fair enough.
> 
> I will say though that a fork or rear dropouts make better truing stands than any of the cheapies I've tried. Good brakes hold center from a model dished wheel and the fork or dropouts locate the wheel solidly. I've built 4 pairs of wheels in frames dangling from a seat pin work stand, as well as built and overhauled several bikes before I went back to working for a shop.


And this is a good way to true wheels with a minimum of equipment. For those that don't want tons of tools like I have filling up boxes and taking up space I think it's always best to look for ways of getting the job down with the least amount of equipment. My TS2 wheel stand is built to last a lifetime, but it does take up a lot of space and it's a boat anchor.


----------



## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Kontact said:


> Fair enough.
> 
> I will say though that a fork or rear dropouts make better truing stands than any of the cheapies I've tried. Good brakes hold center from a model dished wheel and the fork or dropouts locate the wheel solidly. I've built 4 pairs of wheels in frames dangling from a seat pin work stand, as well as built and overhauled several bikes before I went back to working for a shop.


I've built wheels in a fork/frame, too. IME, the best way to do that is to flip the bike up on it's back - makes a perfect sitting-height stand.

Heck, I've done a fair amount of bike work on an arm-style car rack. It's all good - but the right tools for the job do make for easier and often better work.

Certainly, either type has their pros and cons. and both do the job well. If I could have only one and it was for my (road) bikes, it'd be one of these. If I was working on all sorts of bikes, the clampstand would be the obvious choice.


----------



## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

In a "production" environment (ie: a bike shop), the old standby Park PRS-2 or PRS-3 is the most efficient stand. EXCEPT for carbon bikes with non-round seatposts or bikes with super-light carbon posts. Then you need a stand like the PRS-20. If I had to use the PRS-20 for everything, every day, I'd quit working on bikes.


----------



## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

PlatyPius said:


> In a "production" environment (ie: a bike shop), the old standby Park PRS-2 or PRS-3 is the most efficient stand. EXCEPT for carbon bikes with non-round seatposts or bikes with super-light carbon posts. Then you need a stand like the PRS-20. If I had to use the PRS-20 for everything, every day, I'd quit working on bikes.


These work with Park stands, but safely clamp any seatpost. Highly recommended.










From Efficient Velo Tools.


----------



## trekroadie1.5 (Oct 20, 2010)

Good info here. I'm looking at buying a repair stand soon. It would have helped a month ago when I was building my new bike.


----------



## LePatron (Jan 5, 2011)

I have the PRS-21 which is the lightweight version of the 20 with a few more aluminum bits. I added a tool tray (106 I think) and the setup is just so sweet. Now I don't think I'll be using my tube clamp stand much anymore.


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

trekroadie1.5 said:


> Good info here. I'm looking at buying a repair stand soon. It would have helped a month ago when I was building my new bike.


I'm also looking to buy a repair stand. Started by considering the Topeak Prepstand Elite. Then the dealer suggested I also consider Park Tools, the PRS20 is a similar price to the Elite. The PRS20 supports the cycle under the bottom bracket and one of the forks and the Elite uses the conventional seat post hold. 2 of our bikes don't have much post to work with.
We've been to our LBS today for more advice. They use a Park PS3 and ANOther brand in the shop but the ANOther stand is the staff's first choice. Whilst they sell Park stands they have not seen or used the PRS20/21. They were concerned that you would not be able to repair the BB easily with the PRS20, said that this is a very common repair in our area.
Does anyone have any experience of the PRS20 and whether its possible to repair the BB in this stand? If cables pass under the bottom bracket is this a real problem with this stand? We ride MTB's.


----------



## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

I'll call you Josephine said:


> .
> Does anyone have any experience of the PRS20 and whether its possible to repair the BB in this stand? If cables pass under the bottom bracket is this a real problem with this stand? We ride MTB's.


I have a PRS20 and removed/replaced a bottom bracket on my road bike this week.

No problem!

In fact, I'm transferring all components from one frame to another using this stand.

Had the stand for several years and love it.


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

MerlinAma said:


> I have a PRS20 and removed/replaced a bottom bracket on my road bike this week.
> 
> No problem!
> 
> ...


Thanks for your advice. I'll order one next month. Looks like they have a 2012 model. Hopefully will have it before the good weather arrives.


----------



## mudrock (Jun 4, 2008)

I'll call you Josephine said:


> Does anyone have any experience of the PRS20 and whether its possible to repair the BB in this stand? If cables pass under the bottom bracket is this a real problem with this stand? We ride MTB's.


I've worked on road, cross and SS bbs on this stand w/o problem. the supports under the bb let the cables pass through without any drag on them.


----------



## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

Dcmkx2000 said:


> Thanks for all the help deciding on a stand. It is a tank, no plastic=long life. Ordered some Park Tool tools as well. I'm sure they will be quality just like the stand.



Very nice!


May I ask how much you spent on it?


----------



## mriddle (Nov 16, 2005)

*wrong...*



Kontact said:


> I have a 20 year old folding Park seat tube type folding stand. It has never fallen over or prevented me from performing any maintenance.
> 
> What is the appeal of these BB stands that don't allow you to make headset, front wheel true or front brake adjustments?


Get informed. You can do all of those procedures on Park's BB stands. Clamping a seat post or god forbid a seat tube is not an option for many of us, for a variety of reasons. Add in the endless height adjustments and full swivel and you understand why clamp stands are virtually obsolete. 

I've used the 20 for almost 10 years, it will last forever. I never use the strap, you can torque a BB easily and securely. Park updated the BB cradle area where the frame sits a while back and sent me the new style for free, no questions asked.


----------



## Doctor Falsetti (Sep 24, 2010)

LePatron said:


> I have the PRS-21 which is the lightweight version of the 20 with a few more aluminum bits. I added a tool tray (106 I think) and the setup is just so sweet. Now I don't think I'll be using my tube clamp stand much anymore.


Wife bought me the PRS-21 for X-Mas. Love it. Got the travel bag as well, 10 seconds to pack it or unpack it. Love having a stand I can take to races and when we travel


----------



## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

mriddle said:


> Get informed. You can do all of those procedures on Park's BB stands. Clamping a seat post or god forbid a seat tube is not an option for many of us, for a variety of reasons. Add in the endless height adjustments and full swivel and *you understand why clamp stands are virtually obsolete. *
> 
> I've used the 20 for almost 10 years, it will last forever. I never use the strap, you can torque a BB easily and securely. Park updated the BB cradle area where the frame sits a while back and sent me the new style for free, no questions asked.


Clamp stands are not obsolete, virtually or otherwise; nor will they be in the future.


----------



## mriddle (Nov 16, 2005)

PlatyPius said:


> Clamp stands are not obsolete, virtually or otherwise; nor will they be in the future.



Virtually-_for the most part; almost wholly; just about...._


----------



## stevecaz (Feb 25, 2005)

Well I'll add my 2 cents as I use this for my mobile shop. 
I travel with both the PRS-20 and a Topeak Prepstand Pro. Normally I would have gotten the lighter PRS-21 but didn't for certain circumstances at the time. 

The PRS-20 is an absolute necessity for a mechanic since a clamp style is useless for many triathlon bikes and frames like the Trek Madone. However, I've also found that most customers also have a saddle bag on with no exposed seatpost. Removing the bag and the hassle of re-installing some bags (like with with old worn out velcro), takes up any loss in time from using the PRS-20. Since there is also no chance of making a mark on the frame or seatpost I've ended up using the PRS-20 most of the time. 

As the other reviewer said, I also rarely use the strap since the bike is solid once sliding adjustable wheel mount is tightened down. 

If I were just a home mechanic my choice would be the PRS-20 since it's pretty much a lifetime purchase and will accommodate your bikes now and into the future. I've even mounted recumbents on this thing. 

As for weight, I load and unload this thing all day without issue. It folds up quick and they also make a carrying bag if you want.


----------



## madduck (Oct 13, 2005)

maybe it was addressed somewhere in this thread and i missed it, but what about working on the head/ahead set? seems if you're clamped at the fork it limits what you can do in the fork/head tube area.


----------



## maxxevv (Jan 18, 2009)

madduck said:


> maybe it was addressed somewhere in this thread and i missed it, but what about working on the head/ahead set? seems if you're clamped at the fork it limits what you can do in the fork/head tube area.


What do you want to do on the fork/ head tube ? 

Normal bearing preload adjustment is actually best done on the floor with the tyres on the ground. Likewise for cutting the steerer without removing the fork. 

Same too for the adjustment of stem alignment etc. 

These can all still be done on a BB stand or a clamp stand too, but both are not ideal compared to working with the bike actually on the floor. 

As for the other fine adjustments, I've found the BB stands to be better in just about every way compared to clamp style stands as the bike tends to be a lot more stable and planted. The killer application for me is the swing around work routine. Much, much easier to manage the tools and bits. 

And yes, I've had the PRS-20 for quite a few years already.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

Look guys, the old fuddy-duddies who are in love with clamp-stands are never going to be convinced about the superiority of the PRS-20 style. Don't bother. Let them keep clamping carbon tubes and/or wasting time pulling seatposts and such. If they want to work inefficiently, so be it.

They are often the same people who pooh-poohed aero bars for TT, STI shifters, and clipless pedals.

Now that we have that out of the way, I *do* love a clamp-stand for working on kids bikes and beach cruisers, which are nearly always sturdy steel and wouldn't really fit on a PRS-20 style anyway. Quick, adjust that coaster brake! Bam! Into the clamp-stand it goes.


----------



## Dcmkx2000 (Mar 18, 2010)

cda 455 said:


> Very nice!
> 
> 
> May I ask how much you spent on it?




It was $191 out the door from my LBS. I could have gotten it for 175 shipped online, but that was close enough to give my LBS the business.


----------



## maxxevv (Jan 18, 2009)

Dcmkx2000 said:


> It was $191 out the door from my LBS. I could have gotten it for 175 shipped online, but that was close enough to give my LBS the business.


Its price has climbed over the years it seems. 

I though it was closer to $150 when I got mine back then a few years ago. :eek6:


----------



## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

Dcmkx2000 said:


> It was $191 out the door from my LBS. I could have gotten it for 175 shipped online, but that was close enough to give my LBS the business.


You got a good price! Thanks for responding.


Realcyclist.com has the '20' for $209. and the '21' for $259.


Did you get a chance to see and fondle the '21'? That's the lightweight version with aluminum components. Weighs about 5lbs less.


----------



## civdic (May 13, 2009)

I had a buddy come over and we had to be careful with his externally routed di2 bike. The wiring harness that mounts under the BB was a tight fit. It worked but you have to take a bit of care.


----------



## rufus (Feb 3, 2004)

I had one, but finally got tired of being able to work on only one end of the bike at a time, and then having to unclamp, replace one wheel while removing the other, and flipping it around to work on the other end. Particulaly a PITA when I was centering and adjusting new disc brakes on my mountain bike. 

So I sold it and picked up a clamp style from Feedback Sports. Like this much better, as I can also swivel the bike around both horizontally and vertically to work on different areas, and can work on pretty much evrything without having to unclamp it and switch it around. 

Also never felt like the strap held the bike all that securely. .


----------



## marathon marke (Nov 14, 2011)

My home stand is an Ultimate (now Feedback Sports) Pro-Elite stand. It has served me well. But I also work in a shop, and there is a real need for the newer clamp style stands when you need to keep the work moving during the busy season. One very useful feature on a stand is the ability to just hang a bike up for quick service, and Park has addressed this rather well with it's plastic shell on the model #100-3D to protect the underside of the saddle (although I think it could still use some further refinement in it's design).

But what has impressed me the most has been the shape of the jaws, as they seem to fit the bill for safely working on just about any odd-shaped carbon fiber tube that I've come across. For production and universal fit, I feel they have the best stand out there.


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

rufus said:


> I had one, but finally got tired of being able to work on only one end of the bike at a time, and then having to unclamp, replace one wheel while removing the other, and flipping it around to work on the other end. Particulaly a PITA when I was centering and adjusting new disc brakes on my mountain bike.
> 
> So I sold it and picked up a clamp style from Feedback Sports. Like this much better, as I can also swivel the bike around both horizontally and vertically to work on different areas, and can work on pretty much evrything without having to unclamp it and switch it around.
> 
> Also never felt like the strap held the bike all that securely. .


Following your post above I seriously considered the Feedback Sports Elite until I read on other Forums that their product support stinks. If its bad in their homeland what hope have I got here in the UK. A. No hope.
Here we have a legal requirement to carry a rear facing reflector on a cycle - which we have attached to our seat posts - so there is little available space with which to clamp the bike with most work stands, other than the frame. That risks damaging the frame.

Admittedly the PRS20 is not perfect. There are posts where others have concerns with the BB strap or rust after washing bikes. I've not yet placed the order with the dealer so please keep posting your thoughts on the best work stand to have.


----------



## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

I'll call you Josephine said:


> Whilst they sell Park stands they have not seen or used the PRS20/21. They were concerned that you would not be able to repair the BB easily with the PRS20, said that this is a very common repair in our area.


Sounds to me like it might be time find a new LBS. How can a bottom bracket repair be better on a stand that supports the bike by the seatpost leaving the bottom bracket to swing freely in space? Seems kind of hard on the seat post when trying to properly apply torque when installing a bottom bracket with threaded bearing cups.



> Does anyone have any experience of the PRS20 and whether its possible to repair the BB in this stand? If cables pass under the bottom bracket is this a real problem with this stand?


We have carbon road and cx bikes with Integrated seat masts and press-fit (BB86 & PF30) bottom brackets and I own both the Park PRS-21 and PRS-25 repair stands. Guess what, the PRS-21 gets used for all repairs (including bottom brackets) while the PRS-25 typically gets used to hold bikes outside when they get washed! The PRS-21 holds and supports the bottom bracket and for cable installation, simply place a cloth on the stand and briefly support the bike on the big chain ring while inserting cables though the giudes.


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

marathon marke said:


> My home stand is an Ultimate (now Feedback Sports) Pro-Elite stand. It has served me well.


Mark, I'm undecided as to which mobile repair stand to purchase - Park PRS20, Feedback Pro-Elite or Topeak Prepstand Elite. Today I've read some good reviews regarding the Pro-Elite. Whats your opinion? Would you buy a new one today?


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

ms6073 said:


> Sounds to me like it might be time find a new LBS.
> 
> and I own both the Park PRS-21 and PRS-25 repair stands. Guess what, the PRS-21 gets used for all repairs (including bottom brackets)


Thanks for your advice Michael.
We've found it very difficult to find a LBS that displays and sells mobile repair stands. The biggest bike shop in our area only sells their own brand. Otherwise they have a fixed shop stand in the store and catalogues from which you order. It would be nice to be able to view and try and them.


----------



## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

I prefer clamp style stand. I have a new Ultimate stand form 8 years ago or so. Works perfect and I can clamps any Round CF frame or post without ANY issues, period.

But those park Stands are great, if you prefer that style. To each his own.


----------



## Dcmkx2000 (Mar 18, 2010)

Was thinking about a prepstand elite from topeak..........too much plastic made me nervous.


----------



## Chico2000 (Jul 7, 2011)

what is this strange device(circled in red) near the chainstay of the mountain bike?


----------



## marathon marke (Nov 14, 2011)

I'll call you Josephine said:


> Mark, I'm undecided as to which mobile repair stand to purchase - Park PRS20, Feedback Pro-Elite or Topeak Prepstand Elite. Today I've read some good reviews regarding the Pro-Elite. Whats your opinion? Would you buy a new one today?


I can see the attraction towards the PRS-20/21. The ability to turn the bike around might be nice, but I would really miss the ability to quickly hang the bike up to make quick and easy adjustments and cleanings. That's why for a portable stand, I would consider the Park PRS-25. They seem to have the best designed clamp for aero tubes too. 

If you really want to decide between the 3 you mentioned, I think the Feedback Pro-Elite wins hands down.

Hope that helps.


----------



## marathon marke (Nov 14, 2011)

Chico2000 said:


> what is this strange device(circled in red) near the chainstay of the mountain bike?


Possibly a pro-type of a new foot operated gear changer?


----------



## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

ms6073 said:


> ..... and for cable installation, simply place a cloth on the stand and briefly support the bike on the big chain ring while inserting cables though the giudes.


So obvious yet I never thought of that.

I love little tips like this especially since I'll put cables on my new frame in a day or two.

THANKS!


----------



## Dcmkx2000 (Mar 18, 2010)

marathon marke said:


> Possibly a pro-type of a new foot operated gear changer?


You are right on the money......I designed it myself:thumbsup:


----------



## I'll call you Josephine (Jan 29, 2012)

ms6073 said:


> We have carbon road and cx bikes with Integrated seat masts and press-fit (BB86 & PF30) bottom brackets and I own both the Park PRS-21 and PRS-25 repair stands. Guess what, the PRS-21 gets used for all repairs (including bottom brackets) while the PRS-25 typically gets used to hold bikes outside when they get washed! The PRS-21 holds and supports the bottom bracket and for cable installation, simply place a cloth on the stand and briefly support the bike on the big chain ring while inserting cables though the giudes.


We are getting good reports from other users that wash their bikes using the PRS-21. Both the PRS-21 and the Feedback Pro Elite use aluminium and dont seem to suffer as much from rust as other repair stands do. AS MTB riders we intend to wash our bikes on the repair stand so this matters to us. PRS-21 or Feedback Pro Elite? The PRS-21 is more expensive. 
I like your use of a rag to the protect cables running under the bottom bracket.


----------



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I bought the topeak, it supports mountain bike forks, free bag.

it does have a little wobble but I bought it for travelling. It weights only 9.5 lbs.

I installed a crankset but I still torqued on the floor because I didn't want to put large pressure on my BB shell.


----------



## jays35 (Feb 1, 2009)

*Stand*

Got mine for Christmas and love it!


----------

