# New low-end bike at LBS or used high-end bike at Craigslist?



## 13thcyclist (Jan 23, 2011)

Hi there. Since my mountain bike of one month got stolen last week, I am in the market for a new bike. I figured since I never really went off road much at all with the mountain bike, I decided I am looking for something different and want to try road bikes out. FYI, my budget is $600 max, height is around 5'11" to 6' and LBS sized me for a 56cm road bike fit.

I've been scouring Craigslist used bikes for a few days and came up with these:

Tommaso Velocita Dura Ace Road Bike - $600 (seems to be a KILLER deal, but size looks too small for me?)

56 cm Cannondale Road Bike - $500

Cannondale Road Bike - $450

Bianchi road bike - great condition - $300

There was also a 2004 Bianchi Eros with stock parts and in good condition listed for $320, but it got taken down. However, I have the seller's contact info after brief email correspondence and will check later to see if it's still available. It looks similar to this bike Bikepedia link: http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2004&Brand=Bianchi&Model=Eros&Type=bike


The other option is the new @ LBS route, which puts me right up to my budget limit and severely limits my options to really-bottom-end road bikes. The closest LBS to me recommended this model for $650:

2011 Jamis Ventura Sport

This is the absolute highest I am willing to go, but buying at this LBS also means free tune-ups, maintenance, etc services tossed in as well, which could possibly be a better deal than bringing in a used bike and having to pay to get those services over the long run.


Finally, have some general questions about road biking-
1. Is the learning curve from upright position/flat bars to the 'low' position/dropped bars steep?
2. Is there any special equipment that's necessary for riding road bikes? I keep hearing of 'clipless pedals', 'cycling shoes', and other gear while researching road bikes.
3. Do road bikes have any room for extra storage like saddlebags?
4. How many & what kinds of locks should I bring with me? I don't want another bike investment becoming a loss because of some filthy bike thief again. I was thinking about bringing three locks with me this time around, two for locking the wheels to the frame and one for the frame locked to whatever secure post is available.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

I'd go check out the Tommaso, it's a compact frame so it may fit you just right. 
The Jamis at the LBS would be my second choice, nice. The others are just too old.

Answers...
1. The curve should not be far, it is more like low position (drops) is for descending or when you want to go faster or be more aerodynamic. You wont be there for the whole ride. For most of your riding you will be on the hoods or on top of the brakes.
2. Those who do not buy clipless pedals will eventually give in within about a year. They give you more power on the pedal stroke, and are more comfortable on long rides since the sole of the shoe doesn't flex backwards on the pedal. 
3. Road bikes will not have, nor should not be loaded down with saddlebags. The touring bike has eyelets on the fork and seatstays that will allow you to put saddlebags on it. Look for touring bikes if you want to do this. 
4. Most roadies will use a U lock and then take off the front wheel and lock it to the seat tube, the rear wheel and a pole.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

13thcyclist said:


> Hi there. Since my mountain bike of one month got stolen last week, I am in the market for a new bike. I figured since I never really went off road much at all with the mountain bike, I decided I am looking for something different and want to try road bikes out. FYI, my budget is $600 max, height is around 5'11" to 6' and LBS sized me for a 56cm road bike fit.
> 
> I've been scouring Craigslist used bikes for a few days and came up with these:
> 
> ...


First, some general info re: road bikes and sizing:
Because there are no industry standards for determining frame sizes, don't be misled into thinking you'll fit on every 56cm bike you encounter. You may have been sized correctly at the LBS for THAT particular model, but geometry varies widely, so when shopping used proceed with caution. 

Along those same lines, don't underestimate the importance of getting sizing then fitting right. While we all want the most value from our dollar, there's also value added services that LBS's provide, so I don't necessarily agree that when all things are considered, buying used (or online) is right for everyone.

Of the bikes listed, forget the Tommaso. With a ST length of 52cm's and top tube of 530mm's, it'll be too small for you, and I think the C'dales are overpriced. The Bianchi is IMO the best deal of the lot, but I'm admittedly prejudiced towards steel bikes (over alu). Being a mtn biker, I'm assuming you're somewhat familiar with the 'mechanics' of bikes, but in addition to looking them over carefully be sure to test ride _any_ bikes under consideration. 

The Jamis Ventura is a very nice bike, and IMO a good choice for an entry level rider. With that purchase, you'll get sizing/ fitting assistance, warranty assistance (if needed) and most likely post purchase services inlcuding tweaks to fit, tune ups/ adjustments, but check with the LBS for verification.

To answer your questions:
1. Becoming accustomed to riding a drop bar bike isn't so much a learning curve as it is dependent on fitness/ flexibility, and a good fitter will work with you on initial fit adjusting the bars up some and lowering them slowly as you build saddle time/ core strength.

2. There are a number of cycling related 'accessories' that'll enhance your riding experience, but IMO the only essential (or necessary) items are a helmet and padded shorts. You can spend a lot or a little on each, but generally speaking and given your limited budget, a decent helmet can run < $50 on sale and shorts about $25. 

3. If you're looking to use a road bike as a commuter (thus, the need for storage space), I'd recommend a bike better suited to such a purpose, like a touring bike. In lieu of that, I'd suggest considering a back pack as an alternative.

4. Since my bikes stay with me at all times and I don't own locks, I'll leave this to more knowledgable members.

HTH...


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## 13thcyclist (Jan 23, 2011)

> Of the bikes listed, forget the Tommaso. With a ST length of 52cm's and top tube of 530mm's, it'll be too small for you, and I think the C'dales are overpriced. The Bianchi is IMO the best deal of the lot, but I'm admittedly prejudiced towards steel bikes (over alu). Being a mtn biker, I'm assuming you're somewhat familiar with the 'mechanics' of bikes, but in addition to looking them over carefully be sure to test ride any bikes under consideration.


Well, just called the guy with the Bianchi Eros and said he sold it already. Darn!  But the guy with the other, $300 Bianchi Sport SS has agreed to meet me today. Which Bianchi were you talking about, PJ352?


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

I'd take the 56cm Cannondale over the Bianchi which looks like an old POS. Cannondale is near new if you believe the seller. And he will take less than asking . 2nd Cdale looks too small - I think the seller is wrong about size.

edit. the Jamis looks like a good deal - my comments really referred to the used bikes. however it's going to be more tempting to the thieves.  

If you can get the cannondale under $400 that would still be my choice.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Get the Jamis. Those others are junk.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Just looking at the "56" Cdale again and may have to change my opinion - it looks too small too - more like a 52-54.

So, in this lineup I'm going with the resident moron.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

13thcyclist said:


> Well, just called the guy with the Bianchi Eros and said he sold it already. Darn!  But the guy with the other, $300 Bianchi Sport SS has agreed to meet me today. *Which Bianchi were you talking about*, PJ352?


This one....
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/bik/2135596063.html


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## 13thcyclist (Jan 23, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> This one....
> http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/bik/2135596063.html


All right, guess I should update. Checked out the bike on Sunday, but it really was a pretty old bike.. I've never seen friction shifters before (I think that's the right term for those shifters that are attached to the down tube  ), but now that I have, I think I'd be wanting something a fair bit.. less awkward. And safer  (can't imagine the number of accidents having to reach down to shift could possibly cause)

I've also established the Jamis Ventura Sport to be the 'solid' choice ie the bike I would get if I had to buy one right now. Seeing that I don't have to get it RIGHT AWAY though, here's one more Craigs offering (I'm still accepting opinions for the previous listings FWIW):

2005 KHS Road Bike 58cm - $450 Official site listing too -- Looks like a good deal- solid components, freebie Cateye, OMGcarbonfiber backstay - but like the other bikes, age might be a problem (2005)


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

13thcyclist said:


> I've never seen friction shifters before (I think that's the right term for those shifters that are attached to the down tube  ), but now that I have, I think I'd be wanting something a fair bit.. less awkward. And safer  (can't imagine the number of accidents having to reach down to shift could possibly cause)


Not trying to sell you on downtube shifters, but taking one hand off the bar and performing some sort of task is a valuable skill to have. Not having and practicing that skill is actually what causes accidents, with the classic sequence of events being: unskilled rider reaches for water bottle > hits bump > goes down hard.

As to age of a bike: it's not as important as condition. There are a large number of old bikes hanging in garages all over the land that have been ridden once or maybe twice. And carbon fiber stays = not enough value added to pay extra for those or have them influence your choice unless you just like their looks.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

A from Il said:


> Get the Jamis. Those others are junk.


IMO, no bike that can still give some pleasure to someone is junk. It might be completely unsuitable to the needs and wants of the OP, but that doesn't make it junk. Just saying.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

13thcyclist said:


> All right, guess I should update. Checked out the bike on Sunday, but it really was a pretty old bike.. I've never seen friction shifters before (I think that's the right term for those shifters that are attached to the down tube  ), but now that I have, I think I'd be wanting something a fair bit.. less awkward. And safer  (can't imagine the number of accidents having to reach down to shift could possibly cause)
> 
> I've also established the Jamis Ventura Sport to be the 'solid' choice ie the bike I would get if I had to buy one right now. Seeing that I don't have to get it RIGHT AWAY though, here's one more Craigs offering (I'm still accepting opinions for the previous listings FWIW):
> 
> 2005 KHS Road Bike 58cm - $450 Official site listing too -- Looks like a good deal- solid components, freebie Cateye, OMGcarbonfiber backstay - but like the other bikes, age might be a problem (2005)


If you're not comfortable with the Bianchi for whatever reason, that's all that matters. It's your money and you saw the bike in person, but FWIW I completely agree with wim re: the d/ tube shifters. I've used them from the 60's through '08 (and am now contemplating another build using them) and they were never the cause of any of my mishaps.

That aside, I think the KHS has a couple of potential negatives. First, judging from the geo charts it _may_ be too large for you, although the bike/ geo chart you linked to (an '07, I believe) may not be applicable to the 2005 bike. If you were serious about the bike you'd need to check it out and test ride it, and that should answer the sizing question.

Also, not so much recently, but in the past there have been issues with some mixed materials frames, where the bond doesn't hold and the CF separates from the alu frame, so something to be aware of if you pursue the KHS.

Generally speaking, I think that (all things considered), buying new from a LBS is the preferred route for most new to cycling, and especially road biking. You pay more, but there are value added services like sizing/ fitting/ tune ups and warranty/ support that most buyers utilize, but initially don't see as having monetary value.

That's not to say there aren't deals to be had in the used arena, but IME many CL sellers overprice their bikes, and many don't really know what they're selling, so unless you _do_ know and can bargain them down to a more 'realisitic' price, there's no guarantee that buying used ends up being cheaper - long term.

Bottom line, buying new or used both have their advantages and disadvantages. You just have to decide what works best for you.


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## iebobo (Jun 23, 2006)

Another question is how good are you at repairing/tuning your bike? If you buy a new one, you've got some sort of warranty and somewhere to take it back if there's an issue. I bought an old Trek on a whim from Ebay and wound up having to replace tires, brake pads, rebuild the wheels with new rims (they were cracked- seller didn't mention anything about that), cables, and bar tape. If I had to take it to the bike shop, it would have easily tripled what I spent. If you're good with a wrench and have a good eye, you can find some real bargains on CL. Beware though.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

Well, if you go used I can tell you right now that of the four used bikes you posted only the $500 C-Dale and Bianchi are anywhere near your size. The $450 C-dale looks sweet but if you look at the distance of the top tube and bottom tube where the head tube meets, that bike is more like a 52-50 cm. Even with the aggressive geo, the C-dale would have more space between the top and bottom tube than that. If you went new, I would recommend BD if you know your size on a Fuji since Fujis and BD bikes seem to have the same geo. They aren't a risk if you know what you want.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

terbennett said:


> I would recommend BD if you know your size on a Fuji since *Fujis and BD bikes seem to have the same geo*. They aren't a risk if you know what you want.


Fuji has recently made some strides in semi-standardizing their geo across model lines, but in years past their geo varied widely. The geo of BD bikes is all over the map, so I see a lot of room for error following your advice. 

IMO/E for noobs looking to buy online, better advice would be for them to pay a LBS for a standard fitting ($50~) and use the info (year, make, model, frame size, stem length/ angle) of the test bike to compare to bikes of interest. The closer the numbers, the better final fit is apt to be. Even then, knowing how to read those numbers is all important, so buyer beware...


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## 13thcyclist (Jan 23, 2011)

It's been a week now and most of the CL bikes are gone. Oh well, I am convinced that I should go the LBS route since I am new to the sport and do need good assistance with size/fit/repairs. Also, going BD is not feasible since I live on Oahu and the cost of shipping a bike is $150 (might as well just be able to get a bike locally than wait and pay essentially the same price)

Oh, some good news for my budget, I recovered my stolen bike! And was able to return it to the store for $360.00, so now my budget is more around the $700-800 range, but my parents can (grudgingly) help me up to $900, though a thousand is the absolute limit to them.

So now I have narrowed down to these bikes:

Jamis Ventura Sport -- $550 (found out they were having a sale on this bike the whole time, down $100 from $650)

Giant Defy 3 -- $674.98 clearance price at McCully Bike


Specialized bikes from The Bike Shop @Aiea, where I can get a 10% military discount-

Allez's -- MIGHT be able spend up to Elite ($1159.99 which goes down to $1043 with discount), but anything that is Sport and below is going to be more reachable for me

Secteurs -- Anything Elite Compact and above is too expensive, so Sport Triple and below for me

Some other things of note: I test rode the Jamis bike today, and this may be because it was pretty much the first time I test rode a road bike for anything more than a mile and because I came from a mountain bike, but damn when you hit bumps in the road, you definitely FEEL them. Felt like a jackhammer in some parts of the road (Oahu has some pretty bad roads in quite a few places) Is this the fault of an aluminum frame, or will it be something I just need to adapt to?

Also so far the most helpful LBS I have visited has been The Bike Shop @Aiea. I asked if they had any entry level road bikes under $1000 and this amiable middle aged guy named Mark came and gave me a very helpful and informative 20 minute lecture on the various Specialized road bikes they had in stock, the merits of going from Sora to Tiagra to 105/SRAM Apex, etc. Overall, much more newb-friendly compared to other LBS I have been to. So I am leaning a bit towards buying from them now, even though the shop selling the Jamis is much closer to where I live.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Well, you certainly have been busy this past week. 

As we often say here re: road bikes, fit matters most, so given your (new) budget I think going the LBS route is a smart move. We also advise noobs to shop for shops _along_ with bikes, because finding a reputable shop that's willing to invest some time with you upfront is worth patronizing/ building a long term relationship with. 

That said, and given the bikes you're interested in, I'd recommend visiting the Spec shop again, get sized/ fitted to both the Allez and Secteur and test riding both, back to back. You can relay on to Mark how the Ventura seemed to ride rough and (based on your weight) he'll be able to set tires pressures more accurately, but I think a big part of this is that (thus far) your only source of comparison is riding a MTB on roads. 

Remember, generally speaking, drop bar bikes are designed to traverse tarmac quickly and efficiently, so narrow, high pressure tires are a part of the picture. Speaking of which, given that you may be more used to an upright riding position and somewhat softer ride, you might prefer bikes like the Secteur and Defy that have what we refer to as relaxed geometry. They're still fast, nimble road bikes, but come equipped with slightly wider tires (softer, more forgiving ride) and taller head tube, for a more upright riding position. This is why I think it would be good to ride both the Allez (race bike) and Secteur (relaxed geo) among others of interest and whittle the field from there.

One last comment re: components. For recreational riding, any of these bikes are equipped with decent quality componentry. The lower end groups like 2300/ Sora perform and function well and are durable, but are 8 speed drivetrains. Tiagra (OEM'd on a couple of bikes you mentioned) is 9 speed. There are differences in the operation of the shifters between the two, but (again) for recreational riders, either will do. When visiting the shops, ask for a short demo of both so that you are familiar with your options. Also, ask about the cranksets of any bikes of interest, because (depending on your fitness and the terrain where you ride) you'll want to taylor the gearing accordingly. 

HTH...


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