# TRP Spyre Report



## mudrock (Jun 4, 2008)

Got a set of Spyres from my LBS. Opted for them instead of the HyRds because I really don't need more braking and the HyRds are kinda ungainly, and heavier. The Spyres save 50 gram per wheel over the Avis BB7s I had on there. The total power is about the same as the BB7s, but because the Spyres have two pistons the disc is centered in the gap between the pads, not to one side as a closely trimmed BB7 would be. And they're quiet, no noise at all. Works great for what I need, I've done some big descents and have been happy.

TRP Launches HYRD and Spyre Road Disc Brakes, First Impressions and Tech Break Down

Now for pics, first you have to admire my Dirty Disco with Lizard Skins - that tape really jumps out.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/9583440953/" title="IMG_0296 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/9583440953_fdf41aa68e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0296"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/9586251658/" title="IMG_0297 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/9586251658_cd2aa36ae1.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0297"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/9586244442/" title="IMG_0298 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5345/9586244442_1befc46cb7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0298"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/9583448027/" title="IMG_0300 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9583448027_a8ca19b611.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_0300"></a>


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

I bought a set for my commuter/winter bike and so far like them a lot. 

Simple to set up, approximately the same braking power as my old BB7's (maybe a bit less, but not by much), much smaller set up and easy to adjust on the fly with cable adjusters.

Lever feel is also much better with the TRP's compared to Avid's. With a regular cable set up, the Avid's were alway's mushy and had a lot of lever pull ... with the TRP's and the same cable set up, they are still not quite what you would get with regular brakes, but it's much improved and the lever doesn't go all the way to the bar any longer. With a good cable set up, I would imagine they would have the same feel of regular road/cross brakes and better power.

With that said, I'm waiting for the rain to hit for final reservations.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

I tried a set and agree they are better than the BB7s or Hayes.
I have the Hy/rd's on now....which are stronger and better modulation.
BUT...they have a longer lever throw that really can't be adjusted out. So if you like a tight lever feel....the Spyres may be what you want.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

the mayor said:


> I have the Hy/rd's on now....they have a longer lever throw that really can't be adjusted out.


You know I thought I had recently read TRP was tweaking the design and that calipers manufactured after sometime in July would have a redesigned lever arm to address lever throw.


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## Sheepo (Nov 8, 2011)

the mayor said:


> I tried a set and agree they are better than the BB7s or Hayes.
> I have the Hy/rd's on now....which are stronger and better modulation.
> BUT...they have a longer lever throw that really can't be adjusted out. So if you like a tight lever feel....the Spyres may be what you want.


What kind of shifter are you used the HYRDs with?

Im interested in a set, but I am afraid of the long lever throw... Do you think modifying the pinch bolt to shorten the lever arm is possible? Judging by pictures, it looks like you could shorten up that arm by moving the cable attachment to the other side of the pinchbolt, closer to the actual pivot. Some filing will be necessary.

What do you think? And how much throw is "a longer lever throw"? Near the tape when locking up the brakes? Would you bottom out on your ring finger knuckle when braking from the hoods with your pinky and ring finger grasping the hood?

Thanks. This info hasnt been covered in any of the reviews.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

Sheepo said:


> What kind of shifter are you used the HYRDs with?
> 
> Im interested in a set, but I am afraid of the long lever throw... Do you think modifying the pinch bolt to shorten the lever arm is possible? Judging by pictures, it looks like you could shorten up that arm by moving the cable attachment to the other side of the pinchbolt, closer to the actual pivot. Some filing will be necessary.
> 
> ...


I can't comment on the HYRD's ... but can on the lever throw of the Spyre's.

I'm running Tiagra 10 speed shift levers ... basically old style 105 levers. Now that the pads have set in and I've got some miles on them ... they feel very similar, if not better than my Rival levers with Rival brakes on my road bike.

There is a small amount of lever pull before contact, then under full braking it still doesn't come close to reaching the bar. Modulation is great and power is on par with my old BB7's. With the levers set up for a small amount of pull there is still no disc rub on the pads.

The only question I have at this point with the TRP's is how long the pads will last. The first rain ride I had, I could tell there was some pad wear as I had to adjust the cable adjusters. With that said, I have a curvy 1100 foot descent that requires a lot of hard braking.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

Sheepo said:


> What kind of shifter are you used the HYRDs with?
> 
> Im interested in a set, but I am afraid of the long lever throw... Do you think modifying the pinch bolt to shorten the lever arm is possible? Judging by pictures, it looks like you could shorten up that arm by moving the cable attachment to the other side of the pinchbolt, closer to the actual pivot. Some filing will be necessary.
> 
> ...


I'm using them with 6700 Ultegras.
I don't feel the need to try and monkey with the cable position because I like a longer throw.
One thing I saw at muddy races...where people wore out mechanical disc brake pads...was people running their levers too tight.


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## karyg (Feb 17, 2004)

I just changed to the Spyres from BB7's and I love them. No more squealing, or endless tinkering with trying to get the pads adjusted just right. I am using them with Ultegra 6700 also. Power seems equal to the Avid's. They are slimmer and simple to adjust.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

To the OP.
Looks like you have too small a disc on the rear. Pads are only contacting 1/3 of the rotor.
If that's a 140 disc.....that frame won't take it. You want a 160.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

Just finished several days of out and back rides on the Great Alleghany Passage and our Spyre SLCs worked well although pad life was less than expected and then on the final day, pad wear necessitated and adjustment to the front caliper where in I squeezed the brake lever and the caliper made a cracking noise then no worky! I can squeeze the lever and the caliper arm actuates but there is no braking force and does not return when the lever is released, which made for some interesting braking once we got into Pittsburgh.


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## 88 rex (Mar 18, 2008)

ms6073 said:


> Just finished several days of out and back rides on the Great Alleghany Passage and our Spyre SLCs worked well although pad life was less than expected and then on the final day, pad wear necessitated and adjustment to the front caliper where in I squeezed the brake lever and the caliper made a cracking noise then no worky! I can squeeze the lever and the caliper arm actuates but there is no braking force and does not return when the lever is released, which made for some interesting braking once we got into Pittsburgh.



Any updates on this? I have the SLC's and haven't had any problems, but want to know if I should be keeping my eye on something.


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## lbkwak (Feb 22, 2012)

88 rex said:


> Any updates on this? I have the SLC's and haven't had any problems, but want to know if I should be keeping my eye on something.


Try this. Seems like Alu. version doesn't suffer with this issue.

TRP Spyre mechanical brake = bee's knees? - Page 7


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## demonrider (Jul 18, 2012)

I am hearing all sorts of trouble people are having with their HyRd brakes during cross races. A couple of shops are purging their entire stock of HyRds and getting Spyres in, instead. Speaking of Spyres, they are doing quite well but the problem is still the pads only lasting a *few laps* in some cases but usually they can do a whole race if it's not completely brutal out.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

So far, over 1000 miles on my Spyre brakes and no issues ... other than excessive pad wear.

With that said, for replacement pads the Shimano Deore pads will fit (Kool Stop D620 or D620S) will work ad a direct replacement. Other brands pads will work as well as long as they have the same "Puck" design. I'm going to give the Kool Stops a shot next time around on pad replacement.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

demonrider said:


> I am hearing all sorts of trouble people are having with their HyRd brakes during cross races. A couple of shops are purging their entire stock of HyRds and getting Spyres in, instead. Speaking of Spyres, they are doing quite well but the problem is still the pads only lasting a *few laps* in some cases but usually they can do a whole race if it's not completely brutal out.


so the solution looking for a problem is just creating more problems?


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

88 rex said:


> Any updates on this? I have the SLC's and haven't had any problems, but want to know if I should be keeping my eye on something.


Sorry, did not get a chance to unpack the bikes until this past weekend. I had contacted TRP on Friday and got an return authorization, but while futzing with the brakes to replace pads over the weekend, flushing the problematic caliper with Finish Line Speed Degreaser appears to have gotten rid of the clicking/ratcheting noise and now the caliper arm retracts as expected.

I was hoping to give the c-processed carbon rotors I got back from Kettle Cycles a try but the Shimano 'compatible' carbon pads that Kettle sent with the rotors are for 2011 XTR and thus the pad holder is too long and cant be installed. The TRP caliper requires the same pad as the Shimano CX75 (XT Deore BR-M515/525/
415/465/475/485/495/575/M985/CX75) and when installed a new set of EBC pads on the rear caliper, the width of the pads resulted in constant rub and I ran out of garage time so had to shelve the project and did not get a chance to verify if the issue is actually resolved.


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## spangelsaregreat (Sep 14, 2009)

Hi,

Had the same issue with my Spyres. Spraying WD40 into one fixed it but the front started to lock up. I contacted TRP for a strip down guide which they don't have yet. They gave me some pointers and got them stripped.

Mine had lost one of its ball bearings which had jumped out of its mount causing the caliper to jam. Replaced and they are working fine. I think you need to do a bit of maintenance if using these in really muddy conditions (CX races caused my issues).

Flushing them out and lubing them every so often is a good idea. 

Here is the strip down step by step:-

1. Use a TORX to take the cap bolts off the swing arm.
2. Undo the TORX bolts holding the calliper together.
3. Gently move the calliper halves to release the spring. 
4. You should now be able to push out the pistons (be careful the ball bearings will fall out).
5. Re lube all the bits and then reassemble.

Regards


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## mudrock (Jun 4, 2008)

the mayor said:


> To the OP.
> Looks like you have too small a disc on the rear. Pads are only contacting 1/3 of the rotor.
> If that's a 140 disc.....that frame won't take it. You want a 160.


 Yes it was a 140 and didn't even realize it: grabbed the wrong box at my LBS. 160 on there now.


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