# Bike models/frame types that are better suited for endurance riding?



## skhan007

I've accomplished a couple of 50 milers and hope to work my way up to a century ride. I'm curious if there are certain bikes better suited for endurance riding than others. For example, I test rode an aero-bike, a Wilier Cento 1, and thought it was amazing. I read that the aero design and and aero seat post may be very uncomfortable on long rides however, as the bike is stiff and will absorb and transfer road vibrations and potentially be more uncomfortable in the saddle. 

I'm new to endurance riding and was hoping to learn about what you guys ride and what you'd recommend. My current bike is a mid-level Bianchi Sempre and I'm interested in something lighter, probably better components, and literally designed for the long haul. Any suggestions are appreciated. 

FYI, the LBS suggests I consider Cervelo R3 or similar.


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## bbarnett51

I'm newer to the sport so there will be more qualified answers. However, any bike that is comfortable will do. Typically the "endurance" geometry will offer a more comfortable ride bc of a slightly more upright position and a little bit more stability. But they still allow for plenty of speed. 

I went with a cyclocross bike bc it had a similar geometry to endurance bikes, has ability to mount racks, and takes tires up to 40s. This fits my particular type of riding. Throw on 28s for long road rides and larger trail tires for gravel and dirt. 

The bikes I have ridden on that I liked include Specialized Roubaix, Trek Domane, Fuji Gran Fondo, and my favorite is the Jamis Eclipse(steel bike and it's a beauty)


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## ericm979

Pretty much any road bike will work for centuries, from touring to race. A very stiff race bike will ride a bit harsher than a touring bike but the difference is small.

The R3 is an excellent frame for racing and longer rides. I've had an original (2006) R3 and now ride a 2009 R3SL. I've done many centuries and and longer rides on it.

The current R3 has a taller head tube so you're more likely to be able to get it to fit without using a lot of spacers.

Of course there are many other good bikes out there too.


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## skhan007

Brilliant! Thanks for these replies, so far. The R3 was recommended and it's a cool bike for sure. To be honest, I'm more enthralled with the looks of the S- series and the S3 looks like one mean machine. From Ericm979's feedback, perhaps the difference may not be that drastic with the aero vs. road frame geometry.


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## ericm979

Ride both and see what you think. If you can work it out, go for a ride on your bike for a few hours then ride to the LBS and test the new bike. That way you're riding it somewhat tired rather than totally fresh as you'd be if you say stopped by after work. Things that seem ok then can be annoying when you're tired.


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## Rashadabd

I generally build my year around 2-3 longer century/gran fondo type rides. I also used to own a Cervelo R3, which would be a great choice. The Trek Domane is probably my favorite endurance type ride of the moment, but you get some really great values with the new Cannondale Synapse, Felt Z Series, new Scott Solace, and Specialized Roubaix SL4 as well and many people love those bikes. It would helpful to know how much you would like to spend and I could probably be of more help. There's tons of info and videos out there if you google these bikes. Here's a few reviews to get you started though:

Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 review - BikeRadar

Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3 Ultegra review | road.cc

Specialized Roubaix Expert SL4 review - Cycling Weekly

http://www.triradar.com/gear/trek-domane-4-3-road-bike-review/

The Six-Month Test: Trek Domane 6.9 | The Cycle Life | OutsideOnline.com

Scott Solace 10 ? first ride review - BikeRadar

http://www.triradar.com/gear/scott-solace-30-road-bike-review/

Review: Scott Solace 20 road bike

Felt Z5 review - BikeRadar

Felt Z4 review - BikeRadar


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## Rashadabd

One more: Enthusiast: Cervélo R3 Ultegra | 2014 Editors' Choice | Bicycling Magazine

2014 Cervelo R3 - YouTube


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## Donn12

go ride a cervelo r3, a synapse and a roubaix....you can't go wrong with any of them so get the one you like the best. pick a good lbs...the fit will be as important as which one you select.


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## MMsRepBike

Nobody seems to consider BMC.

The BMC Granfondo is a perfect fit. GF01 is carbon GF02 is aluminum. Available in either normal or disc brakes. The disc GF02 is a very relaxed geometry, even more so than the rest. Available in lots of groupset choices as well. It's one of the best selling bikes at our shop. We carry a dozen brands, we're not one of these two or whatever brand shops, just for reference.


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## Rashadabd

While I can't say I agree that you need to limit yourself to just those three, Donn is right that you can't go wrong with any of these bikes and that it should come down to fit and test ride as you make your choice. Let the test ride and how you feel about the shop tell you which bike and/or shop is the one for you.


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## Rashadabd

MMsRepBike said:


> Nobody seems to consider BMC.
> 
> The BMC Granfondo is a perfect fit. GF01 is carbon GF02 is aluminum. Available in either normal or disc brakes. The disc GF02 is a very relaxed geometry, even more so than the rest. Available in lots of groupset choices as well. It's one of the best selling bikes at our shop. We carry a dozen brands, we're not one of these two or whatever brand shops, just for reference.


That's a good one too. I think they get left off the list osmetimes because of price and the fact that seem to be tougher to find in many areas, but you're right, it's a great bike.


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## MMsRepBike

Rashadabd said:


> That's a good one too. I think they get left off the list osmetimes because of price and the fact that seem to be tougher to find in many areas, but you're right, it's a great bike.


We sell a lot of GF02's for a good chunk under $2K (1700). I think the brand is perceived as expensive but in reality I find them very comparably priced. No games like mismatching brakes or cassettes or chains or whatever either. They also seem to be one of the rarest brands on the road, I rarely see them at large group ride events.


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## Rashadabd

MMsRepBike said:


> We sell a lot of GF02's for a good chunk under $2K (1700). I think the brand is perceived as expensive but in reality I find them very comparably priced. No games like mismatching brakes or cassettes or chains or whatever either. They also seem to be one of the rarest brands on the road, I rarely see them at large group ride events.


I hear ya, but that's the alloy bike. $1700 gets you a carbon 2014 Felt Z5 and $1800 gets you a 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 6 or carbon Specialized Roubaix Sora. $2000 gets you a carbon Felt Z4, Synapse Carbon 5, a carbon Domane 4.3 or higher spec'd carbon Roubaix, etc. BMC makes good bikes, but it seems like you just don't get as much for your money with them unfortunately.


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## MMsRepBike

Yeah, you do have a point there. Time for them to come out with some affordable carbon options to compete. So that being said, whatever bike is chosen make sure the fitment is done and maybe revisted as well. One thing I found that helps me keep on pace with putting the miles in is that I signed up for a dozen events back in February. Half of them for me will be centuries, a couple granfondos with crazy climbing and generally speaking the longest distance the ride offered. I now have a calendar and know on x day there's a century to do. Well if that's the case I better train now right? It's a good motivation and training tool to get in the miles so on that first real century or whatever it is you're actually somewhat prepared.

By the way I do my distance rides on a Paris which is in no way an endurance geometry bike. Not many of the folks I ride with use the endurance geometry bikes, but I'm in the mountains so there's no flat rides around here. A lot of the type of bikes you might see the pros ride is what I see the most of. I'm not entirely convinced that an upright seating position is a good idea for really long rides. I am convinced that whatever position is most comfortable for you is best for the long haul. For me and most I know that is not in an upright position.


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## skhan007

You guys are great, so thank you! I will research each of the makes/models you all have mentioned. My LBS has Cannondale, Scott, and Felt. There are few stores not too far from me that sell Cervelo (still liking the looks of the S3!) and Trek. 

As far as price, under $4K would be nice. Obviously, the cheaper the better. I'm actually selling off some of my guitars to fund this next bike purchase.


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## obed

I think it is going to come down to which one feels best to YOU.
When i bought my domane 5.2, I test rode a lot of the bikes listed in this thread, and not one of them felt bad to me... all were great, all were comfortable...the domane just felt "right" to me. I think any of them would have suited my purposes.


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## MMsRepBike

just a quick expansion on my last comment now that I think of it. Not only do I rarely see the endurance style geometry bikes among those that ride high mileage, I see the opposite. I see a vast number of people either riding TT bikes or putting clip on aero bars on their road bikes to ride more forward. Pretty much all of these people claim that it is most comfortable for them over long distance to ride in a TT type of position.

Just something to really consider before buying a classics style bike to ride centuries with on perfectly flat and even pavement. I think the word endurance is used wrong in this part of our industry. It should be something more like "compliant" or "relaxed fit" or whatever.


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## Rashadabd

skhan007 said:


> You guys are great, so thank you! I will research each of the makes/models you all have mentioned. My LBS has Cannondale, Scott, and Felt. There are few stores not too far from me that sell Cervelo (still liking the looks of the S3!) and Trek.
> 
> As far as price, under $4K would be nice. Obviously, the cheaper the better. I'm actually selling off some of my guitars to fund this next bike purchase.


No problem man, happy to help. The cool thing about hte S3 is that it has a similar geometry to the R3, so if you are comfortable and fit on one, you will probably be comfortable and fit on the other. Definitely check out some of these others though, they are really great bikes. Some of them are a blend of racing and endurance characteristics as well. That kind of sounds like what you might be looking for moving from a Sempre. Oh and if you like Bianchis, they released one of the most talked about endurance race bikes of the year--- The Infinito CV (and they have an Ultegra model in your price range I believe, but you can get a great bike for much less if you want):

Bianchi Infinito CV review | road.cc

Bianchi Infinito CV Bike of the Year 2013 / 2014 - road.cc - YouTube


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## skhan007

Thank you again- I'm in full research mode and will be making trips to the LBS's to test ride. 

Here's a quick question: My current bike is pictured below. I know I could sink more money into it by getting a lighter component group, lighter parts, etc. But I don't know that would make it more of an "endurance bike" as nothing I can do will change the frame geometry. Right?

I've had a proper fitting and now have a shorter stem than the stock one that is pictured below. Is it wise/foolish to put money into upgrading my current bike? My thinking is to find bike #2 and have it meet my endurance riding needs. 

https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/skhan007/IMG_0036.jpg
https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/skhan007/IMG_0036.jpg


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## bradkay

MMsRepBike said:


> just a quick expansion on my last comment now that I think of it. Not only do I rarely see the endurance style geometry bikes among those that ride high mileage, I see the opposite. I see a vast number of people either riding TT bikes or putting clip on aero bars on their road bikes to ride more forward. Pretty much all of these people claim that it is most comfortable for them over long distance to ride in a TT type of position.
> 
> Just something to really consider before buying a classics style bike to ride centuries with on perfectly flat and even pavement. I think the word endurance is used wrong in this part of our industry. It should be something more like "compliant" or "relaxed fit" or whatever.


I think that it is based on personal flexibility. As a person who has never been able to touch his toes, I have never found aero bars to be comfortable and so will not put them on my bike. Another aspect is that as the cycling population ages, flexibility is reduced. This is why "endurance" geometry is so popular right now. There are a lot of us baby boomers out there that love to ride long distance but are no longer comfortable on the more aggressive "aero" bikes.


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## Rashadabd

skhan007 said:


> Thank you again- I'm in full research mode and will be making trips to the LBS's to test ride.
> 
> Here's a quick question: My current bike is pictured below. I know I could sink more money into it by getting a lighter component group, lighter parts, etc. But I don't know that would make it more of an "endurance bike" as nothing I can do will change the frame geometry. Right?
> 
> I've had a proper fitting and now have a shorter stem than the stock one that is pictured below. Is it wise/foolish to put money into upgrading my current bike? My thinking is to find bike #2 and have it meet my endurance riding needs.
> 
> https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/skhan007/IMG_0036.jpg
> https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i57/skhan007/IMG_0036.jpg


That sounds like a good plan. That's about as endurance/comfort oriented as you can set up a race bike in my experience. There are certainly people on RBR that have more experience with this stuff than I do, but it really does look like a bike with a taller headtube would be a better fit for you. Have a goot fitter take a look and see what they thinnk about it though. You probably wouldn't need as many spacers or to have the stem flipped up at such an angle if you go that route. 

That being said, there are lots of people out there that log serious miles on a bike with a geometry jut like yours. There are guys I have seen on Focus Izalcos or, Felt F Series, or Cannondale Supersix Evos, or Tarmacs, BMC Team Machines, etc. that ride thousands of miles every year. Many people that ride a lot just have an all-around race bike and don't even own an endurance model. Truth be told, you can do a lot with stem choice, etc. to set up any bike in a way that works best for your body. Some add carbon cockpits, a carbon seatpost, and wider and sometimes carbon wheels to take some of the vibration out of their stiffer race bikes and to add compliance. There is also gel padding you can add under handlebar tape, etc if you like. So yes, IMHO, you can tweak your bike some if you are generally comfortable on it and happy with it and it is certainly a bike you can ride long distances on if you wish.


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## MMsRepBike

I don't think you need a new bike, that Bianchi is more than adequate. All it needs is to be comfortable. You don't need an "endurance" bike to ride long distance, you need practice. If you're not used to it there isn't a bike out there you can ride for a century and be comfortable on. At a certain point it's not about the bike, it's about lack of fitness. Just ride your bike progressively longer every time. Turn up the mileage on your normal rides, do some new routes.

I see zero reason to get rid of that bike for another similar one from another brand.


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## ericm979

skhan007 said:


> Here's a quick question: My current bike is pictured below. I know I could sink more money into it by getting a lighter component group, lighter parts, etc. But I don't know that would make it more of an "endurance bike" as nothing I can do will change the frame geometry. Right?



Man those are some high bars, set at a wacky angle.

Assuming that you can make that frame fit you it should be well suited for century riding. Lighter components aren't going to make a difference for century riding. If you find the ride too harsh, run the tires at a lower pressure and possibly use wider tires. That makes a lot more difference than frame layout.

If you need bars that high and don't have a back problem, you could benefit from stretching your hamstrings.


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## skhan007

Solid advice and thanks. I did have a proper fitting done recently and it helped tremendously. I'm working on 60 mile outings now and I think I could do a couple of things- perhaps a more comfortable seat over the stock one and of course, more experience/time in the saddle. 

Definitely not getting rid of this bike. Rather, I was considering road bike #2. 

I built my current wheelset after taking a one-day wheel building class at my LBS. They're much lighter than the stock wheels (1400g vs. 2000g). Not sure if I should do anything else (component-wise) to improve the bike- After all, it's me that needs the most improvement!!


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## skhan007

I'll post another pic. I had a fitting done and the angles/stem are all different now. Thanks for the advice on the tire pressure. I'm also taking yoga lessons from my wife, who's a yoga/fitness instructor. Benefits are significant thus far, in terms of gaining flexibility.


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## vic bastige

I will point out that there was endurance riding long before the advent of endurance specific frame geometry...and we didn't lose any riders because of it. 

Your current ride is more than suited for long days in the saddle with good fit...AND good form. The best money in from my point of view is a great wheel-set. I'd try a great set (I like what Enve is putting out), a carbon post and bars to aid in vibration damping if you don't already have them. This way if it still is not what you are looking for, the wheels will move on to your next bike. 

Finally, for what it's worth, I tried all sorts of Endurance bikes and fell for the Volagi Liscio. I have never found anything that seems to dampen vibration on rides like this thing does. Still, it is quick enough to easily perform on spirited group rides. Worth a look.

Have fun...choices are good.


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## skhan007

Thanks. I like the idea of saving $$$ and continuing with my current bike. 

Do you have any recommendations for a carbon seat post and bars? My wheel set is already upgraded and I'm quite happy with them. 

I'm still going to the LBS so I can do some comparisons. Lots of great advice on this thread! Here's an updated pic of my Bianchi. New stem- what the fitter put on and told me I needed.


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## MMsRepBike

You have a very relaxed position on that bike. I don't like having upturned hoods like that, I prefer mine level. Looks like maybe your seat is pointing slightly down? I don't like that either. Very small setback it sees as well. I'm pretty sure my knees couldn't survive a fit like that, but we're all different.

Why carbon handlebars? I just snapped a pair of ENVE bars in half, very expensive problem to have. I don't see a benefit to carbon bars really. I do have a fancy pair of ENVE's new aero bars on my Paris but that's just for show. 

In any event, I can recommend a lot of component brands, but in the end I go with ENVE if I want to spend the cash and PRO if I don't. Both are top notch. PRO is owned by Shimano, it's their component division. I run the 7S stuff on my FR-315 and I really like it. I have the compact Vibe 7S bars and Vibe 7S stem, great quality and very stiff/strong.


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## vic bastige

That bike looks sa-weeet to me. In fact, I'm waiting on Bianchi Infinito CV later this month! As for posts and bars, there are as many as your imagination and wallet can handle. I have FSA stuff and it seems good to me, but your LBS is sure to be of better help selecting than me. Also, I switched to Speed-play pedals with infinite float and they too have (at least for me) made me more comfortable for additional miles. Finally, and I can't stress this enough a good high end pair of shorts/bibs can bee better than all of it. I have top shelf stuff from Pear Izumi, but Sugoi shorts are reported to be that much better. YMMV. Good luck!


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## skhan007

MMsRepBike said:


> You have a very relaxed position on that bike. I don't like having upturned hoods like that, I prefer mine level. Looks like maybe your seat is pointing slightly down? I don't like that either. Very small setback it sees as well. I'm pretty sure my knees couldn't survive a fit like that, but we're all different.
> 
> Why carbon handlebars? I just snapped a pair of ENVE bars in half, very expensive problem to have. I don't see a benefit to carbon bars really. I do have a fancy pair of ENVE's new aero bars on my Paris but that's just for show.
> 
> In any event, I can recommend a lot of component brands, but in the end I go with ENVE if I want to spend the cash and PRO if I don't. Both are top notch. PRO is owned by Shimano, it's their component division. I run the 7S stuff on my FR-315 and I really like it. I have the compact Vibe 7S bars and Vibe 7S stem, great quality and very stiff/strong.


Very interesting. I don't know why the hoods are like that. This is my first road bike and that's the way it was assembled. I just googled some photos of other road bikes and see what you mean about the hood positioning. I bought the bike from a sporting goods store and not a real bike store. Perhaps the hood positioning is the result of that? (meaning non-pro bike guy may have assembled it). I was wanting better tape on the bars, so perhaps when I get that done, I should ask for the shifters to be moved forward. Honestly, I don't like the look of my new stem either. It just doesn't look right with that 17-degree pitch. I'll ask my fitter about that. Perhaps I'm getting caught up in what it should look like vs. what he told me is the right fit for me. What do I know? I'm a rookie.


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## Donn12

How many miles have you put on that bike? I think you need to put a few thousand miles on before you will know what you want as far as what style of bike. You will also be more suited to long distance rides because if your core strength and overall fitness. But if you want to upgrade go for it. Sometimes a new ride is all you need to really start cranking the miles out


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## ericm979

skhan007 said:


> I don't like the look of my new stem either. It just doesn't look right with that 17-degree pitch. I'll ask my fitter about that. Perhaps I'm getting caught up in what it should look like vs. what he told me is the right fit for me. What do I know? I'm a rookie.


If that's what you need to get it to fit, don't worry about it. The people talking down riders who have upturned stems don't know much about riding, so they blindly copy whatever is on pro racers bikes. If pros had playing cards in their spokes that's what these guys would be wanting.

Of course that doesn't mean that you can't experiment. Maybe with some stretching and core work you'll be comfortable with a lower bar position. Then you can move the bars down. I move them at most 10mm at a time. If you're not comfortable in the drops for long periods of time then the bars are too low. I sometimes see guys with super low bars who can't use the drops at all. Sort of defeats the purpose, but it "looks pro".

When I came back to cycling at age 40 I had to raise the bars on my old race bike. I no longer had the core strength to deal with low bars. I've since regained it and lowered the bars.


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## skhan007

Thanks- I understand what you're saying. Perhaps over time, as I get more experienced, perhaps I'll be able to make adjustments to the stem/bars.



ericm979 said:


> If that's what you need to get it to fit, don't worry about it. The people talking down riders who have upturned stems don't know much about riding, so they blindly copy whatever is on pro racers bikes. If pros had playing cards in their spokes that's what these guys would be wanting.
> 
> Of course that doesn't mean that you can't experiment. Maybe with some stretching and core work you'll be comfortable with a lower bar position. Then you can move the bars down. I move them at most 10mm at a time. If you're not comfortable in the drops for long periods of time then the bars are too low. I sometimes see guys with super low bars who can't use the drops at all. Sort of defeats the purpose, but it "looks pro".
> 
> When I came back to cycling at age 40 I had to raise the bars on my old race bike. I no longer had the core strength to deal with low bars. I've since regained it and lowered the bars.


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## Rashadabd

skhan007 said:


> Thanks- I understand what you're saying. Perhaps over time, as I get more experienced, perhaps I'll be able to make adjustments to the stem/bars.


I agree. The bikes with taller headtubes are another option that works for some people as well. Some really good cyclists simply don't have the desire to get down in the drops on a lower race oriented headtube. They choose a bike with a taller headtube like a Roubaix, Domane, etc. and it's sporty enough for most and yet as or more comfortable than some low headtube bikes. Plus you don't need all the spacers and the 17 degree stem. It's worth talking to a fit professional about your options if you ask me. Nothing wrong with going either way though.


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## Lombard

Reading what has already been said, there are a few reasons you were thinking about a new bike:

1) A more relaxed fit for longer rides without pain.
2) Lighter components to be able to ride faster?

Before you go selling some of your guitars, I would ask some questions.

1) Do you have any pain or feel uncomfortable after your 50 mile rides? If nothing is hurting after your 50 mile rides, you probably will be fine for 100. If you do hurt after 50 miles, you WILL be miserable at 100. If you have neck or back pain, you may want a more relaxed position. However, there are ways you can do that with your current bike. You can get a steerer extension put on that will add about 3" to the handlebar height. Or more conservatively, you can go with a 40D stem or even try tilting the handlebars up just a bit more so your hands rest on the hoods higher. I would try some of these things before spending $2K+ for a new bike. Whatever you try, NEVER, EVER, EVER move your saddle forward to get closer to the handlebars. This will cause your knee angle to be sharper on your pedal upswing and can be detrimental to your knees!!!

2) Are you totally exhausted after your 50 mile rides or do you feel like you could keep riding? Shedding weight with lighter components will be of minimal value since you already have some top notch components. Component levels above what you have will likely have little to no return on your investment. In other words, you get the biggest bang for the buck upgrading lowest level components to the next level, a little less advantage upgrading to the level after that, etc., etc. That being said, the best weight to get rid of (besides engine weight ;-)) is rotating weight, which you have already done with your new 1400g wheelset. To go any lighter than that would required mucho $$$ and at that point, you are compromising durability and longevity IMO. Keep in mind that Tour de France racers bikes only have to last for one ride!

Just my own 2 cents.


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## AndyMc2006

I have a Giant Defy Advanced SL, highly recommend it.


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## AndyMc2006

vic bastige said:


> That bike looks sa-weeet to me. In fact, I'm waiting on Bianchi Infinito CV later this month! As for posts and bars, there are as many as your imagination and wallet can handle. I have FSA stuff and it seems good to me, but your LBS is sure to be of better help selecting than me. Also, I switched to Speed-play pedals with infinite float and they too have (at least for me) made me more comfortable for additional miles. Finally, and I can't stress this enough a good high end pair of shorts/bibs can bee better than all of it. I have top shelf stuff from Pear Izumi, but Sugoi shorts are reported to be that much better. YMMV. Good luck!


I followed the recommendation of my bike fitter and bought the speedplay pedals, they helped a lot because he was able to adjust the spindle length to "dial in" my fit.


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## Trek_5200

skhan007 said:


> I've accomplished a couple of 50 milers and hope to work my way up to a century ride. I'm curious if there are certain bikes better suited for endurance riding than others. For example, I test rode an aero-bike, a Wilier Cento 1, and thought it was amazing. I read that the aero design and and aero seat post may be very uncomfortable on long rides however, as the bike is stiff and will absorb and transfer road vibrations and potentially be more uncomfortable in the saddle.
> 
> I'm new to endurance riding and was hoping to learn about what you guys ride and what you'd recommend. My current bike is a mid-level Bianchi Sempre and I'm interested in something lighter, probably better components, and literally designed for the long haul. Any suggestions are appreciated.
> 
> FYI, the LBS suggests I consider Cervelo R3 or similar.


The best frame for riding will be one that is properly fit, that takes into not only your body dimensions but your flexibility. After that you will want to look at bikes that are not overly stiff and provide for a compliant ride. Depening on the roads that these century rides will occur on you may consider wider mm tires, but if the roads are good 23 mm will work fine. Things to avoid or not waste your time with will be aero designs or deep rim wheels which are more for racing. A lighter bike will not be of much benefit for longer rides, you won't feel anything different by riding a two pound lighter bike, although a lighter bike may those stiff hills a little easier, but not anymore than losing some weight or working on your legs. As far as the seat post , chain stay or seat stay design , they'll have some effect but not as much as the tire selection or how the tubing is done(recall those over-sized ultra stiff and jarring aluminum bikes.. you can design a carbon bike to be just as unforgiving)


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## BikeLayne

.....


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## skhan007

Brilliant post. Thanks. Actually the 50+ mile rides are going just fine after the fitting. No neck/shoulder/etc. pain. Just tired legs, which I attribute to me not eating enough. My wife complains that I need to eat more. I tend to run out of gas on the longer rides, so I think I will pay more attention to eating more/eating right. I hear what you're saying about the saddle/knee relationship and will adhere to this guidance. In terms of components, I think I concur. Diminishing returns with upgrades. However, the Ultegra Di2 is very appealing and now can transmit info to the Garmin 1000 via wireless link! Something to think about. 



Lombard said:


> Reading what has already been said, there are a few reasons you were thinking about a new bike:
> 
> 1) A more relaxed fit for longer rides without pain.
> 2) Lighter components to be able to ride faster?
> 
> Before you go selling some of your guitars, I would ask some questions.
> 
> 1) Do you have any pain or feel uncomfortable after your 50 mile rides? If nothing is hurting after your 50 mile rides, you probably will be fine for 100. If you do hurt after 50 miles, you WILL be miserable at 100. If you have neck or back pain, you may want a more relaxed position. However, there are ways you can do that with your current bike. You can get a steerer extension put on that will add about 3" to the handlebar height. Or more conservatively, you can go with a 40D stem or even try tilting the handlebars up just a bit more so your hands rest on the hoods higher. I would try some of these things before spending $2K+ for a new bike. Whatever you try, NEVER, EVER, EVER move your saddle forward to get closer to the handlebars. This will cause your knee angle to be sharper on your pedal upswing and can be detrimental to your knees!!!
> 
> 2) Are you totally exhausted after your 50 mile rides or do you feel like you could keep riding? Shedding weight with lighter components will be of minimal value since you already have some top notch components. Component levels above what you have will likely have little to no return on your investment. In other words, you get the biggest bang for the buck upgrading lowest level components to the next level, a little less advantage upgrading to the level after that, etc., etc. That being said, the best weight to get rid of (besides engine weight ;-)) is rotating weight, which you have already done with your new 1400g wheelset. To go any lighter than that would required mucho $$$ and at that point, you are compromising durability and longevity IMO. Keep in mind that Tour de France racers bikes only have to last for one ride!
> 
> Just my own 2 cents.


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## Rashadabd

skhan007 said:


> Brilliant post. Thanks. Actually the 50+ mile rides are going just fine after the fitting. No neck/shoulder/etc. pain. Just tired legs, which I attribute to me not eating enough. My wife complains that I need to eat more. I tend to run out of gas on the longer rides, so I think I will pay more attention to eating more/eating right. I hear what you're saying about the saddle/knee relationship and will adhere to this guidance. In terms of components, I think I concur. Diminishing returns with upgrades. However, the Ultegra Di2 is very appealing and now can transmit info to the Garmin 1000 via wireless link! Something to think about.


Good to hear. Try eating and drinking something every hour or so on the ride, even if it's just a couple of bites and a sip or two. You don't need to run out and spend a bunch of money on bars and gels either. A banana and a couple of peanut butter and jam/honey/apple butter sandwiches will do fine.


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## AndyMc2006

Rashadabd said:


> Good to hear. Try eating and drinking something every hour or so on the ride, even if it's just a couple of bites and a sip or two. You don't need to run out and spend a bunch of money on bars and gels either. A banana and a couple of peanut butter and jam/honey/apple butter sandwiches will do fine.


Great food ideas, I like almonds and dates as well.


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## bigjohnla

If you are a Bianchi fan, you should look at the Infinito. It is a model designed for endurance riding. It has a bit of a softer ride and a more upright frame. Several professional riders have used it on cobble stone courses like Paris-Roubaix and Tour of Flanders. Originally it was marketed as a moderately priced carbon frame bike to compete with the Specialized Roubaix. It has since become a higher end bike with better hardware and drive train at a higher price. I bought an older NOS model last year with 105. It has been a great bike so far. I have ridden the Hotter N Hell 100 and an MS150 with it as well as numerous 100K (62 mile) rides. It is a very comfortable bike for me.


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## Lombard

skhan007 said:


> Brilliant post. Thanks. Actually the 50+ mile rides are going just fine after the fitting. No neck/shoulder/etc. pain. Just tired legs, which I attribute to me not eating enough. My wife complains that I need to eat more. I tend to run out of gas on the longer rides, so I think I will pay more attention to eating more/eating right. I hear what you're saying about the saddle/knee relationship and will adhere to this guidance. In terms of components, I think I concur. Diminishing returns with upgrades. However, the Ultegra Di2 is very appealing and now can transmit info to the Garmin 1000 via wireless link! Something to think about.



Oh, definitely eat. You can't ride on an empty tank!

Before you invest in the Di2 shifters, I should let you know that I have already come across a couple of riders on club rides this year who have had their battery run out in the middle of a ride. Mind you, they were told the battery should "last the season" on one charge. That obviously didn't happen. And there's no way to override back to manual shifters so guess what? Whatever gear you are in when the battery dies, YOU'RE STUCK THERE! If you're in a very high gear when this happens, I hope you have super strong climbing legs or like walking long distances!

At the very least, I would wait for the growing pains in this technology to end or carry a spare fully charged battery with you.


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## MMsRepBike

Lombard said:


> At the very least, I would wait for the growing pains in this technology to end or carry a spare fully charged battery with you.


Or learn how to very easily check the battery level. If your Di2 battery dies on you out on the road, you have no idea what's going on with your bike. It doesn't just die, it's a process. As a Di2 owner, you should at least have basic understanding of how your bike works. Ignorance is not an excuse and listening to some idiot who says a battery charge will last all season is also not an excuse.


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## Gnarly 928

I didn't read ever single word in the thread so if this has been said, sorry. Find a shop that has a "fit bike" and someone who knows how to fit you. A Fit Bike is a stationary bike with easily moveable and adjustable everything. A session might cost $75 but it is certainly worth every penny...You will then have a bunch of benchmarks to work with as you upgrade, downgrade or sideways grade.

I had a very good bike builder make me a race bike years ago and I still have it...Since then I have traded through almost every imaginable make of bike....and raced and trained on all of them. Recently I was feeling a bit 'out of sorts' on my training so I took my bike over to my friends bike shop and we did a session on his Ritchey fit bike...He is the World Masters Champion in TT quite good at fitting...So I found I was still pretty close with my current bike...(a Colnago CX 1) but we tweeked a few minor things and I took home all the measurements we arrived at using the fit bike... Then I put my old custom bike back together and rode it and measured it....It felt Perfect! It measured almost identically to what we'd arrived at on the fit bike! A change of even 1 millimeter can certainly be felt...especially when you begin to log lots of long miles day in and day out.

Get the fit right. The frame isn't that big a deal, though I have had some really unpleasant frames...Time, Cannondale and Merlin....didn't care for those...My Scott was too flimsey and too twitchy for me...my Look 595 was pleasing but soft...I favor the CX 1 now because while it is not the lightest or most 'trendy' it is durable and very well made and has a good 'everything' geometry...

If I were you I'd keep the bike you have after getting a pro to fit you on it..put in some miles..few thousand...by then you will have developed some opinions of your own about what you might need in your next bike...
As has been said, I think, almost any bike can be suitable for longer rides...I also have a touring geometry bike that I never ride. I see no reason to have a heavy slack slow steering bike to sit on all day...
Good luck with your project. As I mentioned, I was a bike frame trader/hobby guy/striving for the Perfect Bike and went through about 20 high end bikes of all the bling brands...it was quite fun and they all have their own personalities...some were great, some not so great...I think I got through that phase...It's really not the bike, you know, it is the rider...


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