# Headset creaking from Tarmac SL4



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

I finished my build of an S-Works Tarmac SL4 recently. Everything went together pretty smoothly, though had to have a friend with the press fit tool help me with the bottom bracket bearings. Anyway after riding for about 300 miles I noticed a slight creaking sound and was finally able to isolate it to the headset coming loose and having a slight bit of play. I took the headset apart and regreased the bearings and reassembled the fork, headset bearings, spacers, stem and compression plug. Everything seems to go together well, but after another 200 miles or so the creaking is starting again, though the headset/fork seem solid without any play. Any ideas or suggestions?


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Hmmm...press in of the bottom bearing? Doesn't sound right to me. I just built a Roubaix SL3 also with Cobra headtube I believe the same as the SL4....1 18" top bearing, 1 3/8" bottom bearing. This is a proprietary headset and bearings are only available through Specialized. I 'hope' you didn't try to press in an aftermarket 1 1/2" bottom bearing into your new SL4. Perhaps you could explain what you did. The mating races for the bearings aka head tube cups are insert molded into the carbon shell head tube on these bikes. Bearings are 'slip fit' into these alloy cups and not press fit.
Let us know what you did and good luck.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

From what you've offered and the sequence of events, I'd say there's a good chance you have isolated the _area_ of the creaking. Now, the challenge is to pinpoint the exact cause. 

The devil's in the details here, so if you've greased any interfaces (steerer/ stem, for example), I'd disassemble those parts, clean thoroughly and reassemble with no lubricant. Also, even though you don't detect any play in the headset assembly this second time, that doesn't mean the bearings have been preloaded sufficiently. 

Another possibility is that the stem is slipping up the steerer slightly, due to insufficient torquing of the stem bolts and the expander plug has shifted (up). IME you'd be more apt to hear the creaking after a road irregularity (or similar) jarred the fork, but it could also just work loose from vibration. The next step would be to temporarily swap parts (stems, bars, even spacers can cause creaks). 

The moral of this story is to take a staged approach and use care in the assembly process, hopefully finding, then alleviating the source of the creak. I think it's a long shot, but it's also possible that the HT or steerer tube are out of spec causing the creaking, but that (IMO) would be something to address if these other steps fail to solve the problem. A way to diagnose this would be to turn the steerer to different points, checking for binding/ play. It's likely that the conditions mentioned would result in both, even with correctly assembled headsets.

EDIT: Another thing to keep in mind... if you removed the front wheel when disassembling the fork/ headset the second time, consider the skewer as a possible source. When you removed/ reinstalled the wheel, you reseated the skewer, quelling the creak (for a bit). To minimize this risk, I use the internal cam designs (Campy/ Shimano).


----------



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

Roadworthy - Sorry for the confusion, the bottom bracket bearings were press-fit, while headset bearings are slip-fit.

PJ - Good suggestions. I notice the creaking mainly while climbing, always seems to happen when the crankarm is in a certain location. At first thought it might be the saddle or seatpost, so stood up and creaking still evident. Thought it might be the bottom bracket or chainring bolts, but those are torqued to spec. Pedals are lubed and seem fine. Going to year-down the headset again and give that another try. The compression plug seems to tighten down well. Didn't think about the spacers being slightly out of spec. At the same time I going to be cutting down the steer tube a bit more as I dial in the fit.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Missed that Mtn2...press fit BB bearings...check...and relief. 
You mentioned the compression plug...it has a top lip which can rattle if it isn't torqued. Keep in mind that compression plug torque changes based upon stem steerer clamp torque....there is some elastic deformation of the carbon tube when the plug is expanded...and also greater compression of the plug with the stem clamp torqued.

I will give you my take on the headset of these bikes. I have seen better. Of all the aspects of my new Roubaix, I would say the headset with Cobra headtube to the most marginal. Yes the headtube has outstanding stiffness because of its section...but the headset itself is very sensitive to top cap torque. I find that headset rotational freedom versus binding based upon headset torque is a fine line. I believe this is a function of the top bearing in particular. If both bearings are encased in grease...work the grease into the bearings as you rotate them off the bike...then play with the top cap allen torque to dial in the precarious balance between no head knock and the headset being overly stiff in rotation. This bike based upon what I believe is Specialized choice of bearings is far more marginal relative the headset than other bikes I have owned. Dialed in mine doesn't knock or creak at all but if just a bit too loose it will and I have to flirt with low top cap screw torque to dial in sufficient rotational freedom. Other bikes I've owned, I can tighten the top cap screw a fair amount and the headset is both tight and rotates freely...not so with my Roubaix.
Hope that helps.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> PJ - Good suggestions. I notice the *creaking mainly while climbing*, always seems to happen when the *crankarm is in a certain location*. At first thought it might be the saddle or seatpost, so stood up and creaking still evident. Thought it *might be the bottom bracket or chainring bolts*, but those are torqued to spec. *Pedals* are lubed and seem fine. Going to year-down the headset again and give that another try. The compression plug seems to tighten down well. Didn't think about the spacers being slightly out of spec. At the same time I going to be cutting down the steer tube a bit more as I dial in the fit.


Your first post led me to think that you had the area narrowed down, but from what you're offering here (and based on my experiences), I think you may want to broaden your search a little. I once had a creak that I was pretty certain was at the stem. Turned out to be the seat post clamp, so noises can travel and mislead. 

I think before getting into the headset assembly again, continue trying to narrow the cause and focus on exactly when it occurs. Even though the BB, crankset, chainring bolts and pedals are greased and installed correctly, doesn't mean one or more isn't the cause. It could even be your cleat/ pedal platform interface, but based on what you mentioned above, I'm thinking BB/ crankset area. 

Lots of possibilities, so it may take some time/ effort to pinpoint the cause and correct. One suggestion re: the headset spacers, if you suspect them, use a very light coating of grease between them (top and bottom) prior to installing.


----------



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

roadworthy said:


> Missed that Mtn2...press fit BB bearings...check...and relief.
> You mentioned the compression plug...it has a top lip which can rattle if it isn't torqued. Keep in mind that compression plug torque changes based upon stem steerer clamp torque....there is some elastic deformation of the carbon tube when the plug is expanded...and also greater compression of the plug with the stem clamp torqued.
> 
> I will give you my take on the headset of these bikes. I have seen better. Of all the aspects of my new Roubaix, I would say the headset with Cobra headtube to the most marginal. Yes the headtube has outstanding stiffness because of its section...but the headset itself is very sensitive to top cap torque. I find that headset rotational freedom versus binding based upon headset torque is a fine line. I believe this is a function of the top bearing in particular. If both bearings are encased in grease...work the grease into the bearings as you rotate them off the bike...then play with the top cap allen torque to dial in the precarious balance between no head knock and the headset being overly stiff in rotation. This bike based upon what I believe is Specialized choice of bearings is far more marginal relative the headset than other bikes I have owned. Dialed in mine doesn't knock or creak at all but if just a bit too loose it will and I have to flirt with low top cap screw torque to dial in sufficient rotational freedom. Other bikes I've owned, I can tighten the top cap screw a fair amount and the headset is both tight and rotates freely...not so with my Roubaix.
> Hope that helps.


Thanks Roadworthy, that has been my experience as well. My previous bike, Cervelo R3 (with alloy sleeve glued in place within the steer tube), never experienced any issues with the headset and always felt rock solid. I'm not 100% sold on the compression plug that Specialized supplied. Going to give reassembling the headset another try, but it does seem overly sensitive, almost to the point I thought perhaps the bearings were the culprit.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> Thanks Roadworthy, that has been my experience as well. My previous bike, Cervelo R3 (with alloy sleeve glued in place within the steer tube), never experienced any issues with the headset and always felt rock solid. I'm not 100% sold on the compression plug that Specialized supplied. Going to give reassembling the headset another try, but it does seem overly sensitive, almost to the point I thought perhaps the bearings were the culprit.


The top bearing in particular seems quite shallow and very sensitive to axial compression. It almost seems more like a bushing than a bearing. It seems to bind up if one tightens the top screw too tight and if dialing in the amount of rotational freedom most of us prefer...say to ride no handed for example...then we are on the brink of a headset that knocks. I would like to change the top bearing with something else but am afraid it wouldn't be compatible with the stack height and counterbore depth and seat curvature of the insert molded alloy race set into the top the carbon head tube. 
By contrast the bottom bearing which takes most the load of the rider and bike in front is very robust and pretty typical in depth and believe it will take a fair amount of compression before it will bind...my observations anyway. Don't know if Specialized chose what seems to be a flimsy and compression sensitive thin top bearing which sits in a relative shallow cup in the top of the headtube to conserve weight?...a cost thing...not sure why they would do this...but the top bearing and its seating in particular seems marginal. I too have had mine apart after my build to check it because I was surprised it didn't have the feel of a good headset.


----------



## diegogarcia (Apr 29, 2010)

Had this issue with my SL3 - turned out to be a dry as a bone wheel skewer. The noise travelled up the fork and I was convinced it was the head set.


----------



## ETWN Stu (Feb 15, 2007)

I had the same issue with my SL3...I ran another thin washer on top the top headset bearing..the noise went.


----------



## jnbrown (Dec 9, 2009)

ETWN Stu said:


> I had the same issue with my SL3...I ran another thin washer on top the top headset bearing..the noise went.


Same here, LBS had to figure it out.
Without the washer you cannot get the proper adjustment.


----------



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

jnbrown said:


> Same here, LBS had to figure it out.
> Without the washer you cannot get the proper adjustment.


Yes, I did the same thing and it seem to make a difference on keeping the proper load on the upper bearing.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Good discussion guys. I have a theory I want to share based upon the success mentioned of putting a washer...what sounds like...between the top bearing and the bottom of the dust cap.
Please see below. My theory is...when the 'proper' amount of headset torque is applied to the adjustment allen screw, the rubber seal under the dust cap binds with the top of the head tube...or outer part of the bearing that doesn't rotate with the steerer. This is only a theory. The dust cap on my new Roubaix...believe the Cobra headsets are identical between the Roubaix and Tarmac..has very little clearance to the top of the head tube. I believe Specialized may have gotten overly aggressive on designing the fit of the seal under the dust cap to keep out moisure and dirt. As a result, when the headset is torqued properly such that there is no rattle when riding...the dust cap seal binds. Loosen the headset and no binding but the headset now knocks. This is only a theory. What I need to do to confirm, is remove the dustcap and reassemble and then tighten down the adjustment screw good and firm and see if the handlebars rotate freely. This would confirm that the seal under the dustcap is the problem. 
What I believe a washer accomplishes...is it compresses the dust seal of the cap and separates it from the top of the bearing to not rub...no matter how much you tighten down on the headset. Another approach maybe to reduce the height of the seal lip under the dust cap by sandpapering it down a bit.

Can somebody post a quick pic of their washer in place? How thick of a washer did you go with?

Thanks.


----------



## jnbrown (Dec 9, 2009)

I think what you are saying makes sense.
The washer is very thin, I would guess no more than 5 mils.
Your best option is take it to a Specialized dealer, they should fix it for no charge.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

jnbrown said:


> I think what you are saying makes sense.
> The washer is very thin, I would guess no more than 5 mils.
> Your best option is take it to a Specialized dealer, they should fix it for no charge.


Thanks for replying with the washer thickness. As mentioned, I believe the washer is simply a stand off for the seal which was designed with too much interference with the top bearing in an effort to seal it. I believe a more elegant solution is to reduce the seal lip height that is rubbing on the bearing beneath it...take it down with sandpaper...versus spacing the seal away from the bearing with a washer...which basically collapses the seal making it ineffective...not that big a deal either way though. If the seal lip can be shaved down a bit...this would preserve the gap between the bottom of the dust cap and top of the head tube...may look a bit better as a result. So will give that approach a try first.
My lbs who are real good guys and a Specialized dealer would know nothing about this nor would I rely on them to resolve it....small shop...very few higher end bikes go through there. If you do know of a bulletin on this however that would come in handy to order the specific washer...which sounds a bit special at only on 5 thou thick...not a hardware store item it sounds like.
Cheers.
PS: I just dawned on me I may have one of those thin washers in a box someplace...basically a metal shim for a 1 1/8" headset spacer.


----------



## schima (Jan 19, 2011)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> I finished my build of an S-Works Tarmac SL4 recently. Everything went together pretty smoothly, though had to have a friend with the press fit tool help me with the bottom bracket bearings. Anyway after riding for about 300 miles I noticed a slight creaking sound and was finally able to isolate it to the headset coming loose and having a slight bit of play. I took the headset apart and regreased the bearings and reassembled the fork, headset bearings, spacers, stem and compression plug. Everything seems to go together well, but after another 200 miles or so the creaking is starting again, though the headset/fork seem solid without any play. Any ideas or suggestions?


Hi, 2 years ago I also had a clicking/creaking noise when riding uphill and after a long time of seaching for the source of this noise, i found out that the inner screw of the expander was loose. Tightened the screw and the clicking was gone.


----------



## bootsie_cat (Jan 7, 2005)

Does compression plug keep loosening? Check to see if top of steerer tube is cut flat- if it is not flat sometimes the compression plug will tend to loosen up.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

I had a bit of time and took mine apart to address this issue that the OP raised. Sounds as though this issue affects both new Tarmacs and Roubaixs. I believe it emanates from the redesign of the top bearing dustcap which is now a more cosmetically acceptable lower profile versus older style taller cone shaped cap which of course eats up more stack height. 

To preface, let me say, my above comments faulting the upper bearing design integrity were incorrect. There is nothing wrong with the headset design. It in fact is excellent and now as good as any I have owned or worked on. What obscured this fact was the new lower profile carbon fiber dustcover that is causing the noted issue on new bikes...see the pic I posted above showing the dustcap in question.
Btw, Specialized is a bit sneaky about making running changes during the model year so I bet they may discover this at some point and perhaps already have and will make a tweak in the mold of the new dustcap.
Have a look at the two pics below. Note in the first pic that the top bearing on the outside does not rotate...of course this is by design...the outer race is stationary and slip fit and captured into the head tube inserted cup. If you look at the second picture you see the downstanding seal lip on the new lower profile dustcap. The dustcap by design does rotate with the steerer...which they all do because the dustcover is part of the parts stack under the compression of the headset. So you have a rotating seal rubbing on a stationary bearing outer race with too much interference. Specialized should increase the dustcap inside diameter shoulder thickness which acts as the standoff for the seal and dicatates seal clearance...or contact in this case. 

Enter ETWN Stu's revelation that his bike shop found a solution. Kudo's to them for figuring this out. By luck, in my bike parts box, I happened to have just the shim from an old headset which hopefully are available on line for you guys with this issue which no doubt is very common the new bikes. The simple addition of this shim completely changed the complexion of the headset. Now I can provide proper headset allen screw torque for a nice and firm headset and yet the handlebars rotate freely. Specialized in their dustcap design only missed the nomimal inner ring thickness of the dust cap by about .005" or so...or the thickness of the shim you see.
Hope that explains the issue and helps others resolve it.

PS: I had my new Roubaix SL3 out for its maiden group ride last night. The ride is about 30 miles and at times aggressive and over bumpy road. All I can say is this bike is everything I could hope for. Its climbs beautifully...fast and stiff and yet more comfortable than my Look which was never a harsh bike. The riding position is fantastic with slightly higher handlebar...I only raised the bars about 1/2" over my Look which was made possible by the taller head tube...but it made a difference. These bikes rock.


----------



## RkFast (Dec 11, 2004)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> I finished my build of an S-Works Tarmac SL4 recently. Everything went together pretty smoothly, though had to have a friend with the press fit tool help me with the bottom bracket bearings. Anyway after riding for about 300 miles I noticed a slight creaking sound and was finally able to isolate it to the headset coming loose and having a slight bit of play. I took the headset apart and regreased the bearings and reassembled the fork, headset bearings, spacers, stem and compression plug. Everything seems to go together well, but after another 200 miles or so the creaking is starting again, though the headset/fork seem solid without any play. Any ideas or suggestions?


If I could revive this thread, when is this creaking taking place? 

I hear a little creak out of headset area going over a bump, but its very, very intermittent. Did a century yesterday and heard it maybe four times the entire ride. Like if you hit a dip in the road and load up the front end of the bike, you get a little creak. But everything is solid and otherwise silent. No play in binding of headset top cap, either.


----------



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

*Update - tried something new*

I started having problems with occasional creaks again and it got progressively worse, especially after a long day of climbing and putting a lot of load on the handlebars. From reading this thread I was able to isolate the creaking to around the upper headset bearing. I tried doubling up the thin shim and it worked for awhile, then started creaking over time. What I found worked for me (over 1,000 miles and not a single creak) is to take a simple rubber band that came with my daily newspaper and double it up between the thin shim and the top cap. This seem to put enough load on the thin shim and keep a constant load on the upper bearing. While there is a very slight noticeable space between the top cap and the upper bearing, the headset has been dead-silent and rock solid.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

To update as well, I have ridden my new Roubaix for ~800 miles now with the shim noted above and the headset has been flawless. No creaks and great rotational freedom.


----------



## RkFast (Dec 11, 2004)

I had to put a shim under my SL3 top cap for the binding as well, FWIW.


----------



## dcorn (Sep 1, 2011)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> I started having problems with occasional creaks again and it got progressively worse, especially after a long day of climbing and putting a lot of load on the handlebars. From reading this thread I was able to isolate the creaking to around the upper headset bearing. I tried doubling up the thin shim and it worked for awhile, then started creaking over time. What I found worked for me (over 1,000 miles and not a single creak) is to take a simple rubber band that came with my daily newspaper and double it up between the thin shim and the top cap. This seem to put enough load on the thin shim and keep a constant load on the upper bearing. While there is a very slight noticeable space between the top cap and the upper bearing, the headset has been dead-silent and rock solid.


Maybe for a more long term solution, find a decent o-ring that fits in that same position, grease it up nice and stick it in there to replace the rubber band.


----------



## rcjunkie3000 (Sep 5, 2009)

roadworthy said:


> To update as well, I have ridden my new Roubaix for ~800 miles now with the shim noted above and the headset has been flawless. No creaks and great rotational freedom.



I have the same binding issue. Is the shim something that can be found at a local hardware store or local bike shop? I found a piece a carbon spacer but its about 2mm thick. My headset no longer binds and I can torque the top cap to spec but I have a noticeable gap. I could sand down that carbon spacer but I think the thin metal shim is ideal.

Is it a .5mm shim? Thanks.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

rcjunkie3000 said:


> I have the same binding issue. Is the shim something that can be found at a local hardware store or local bike shop? I found a piece a carbon spacer but its about 2mm thick. My headset no longer binds and I can torque the top cap to spec but I have a noticeable gap. I could sand down that carbon spacer but I think the thin metal shim is ideal.
> 
> Is it a .5mm shim? Thanks.


.5mm = .020" and I would say the shim needed is wll less than that...perhaps in the .005-.010" range. I don't recall micing mine during the installation. I had a bunch of headset parts in a drawer and got lucky to have a shim in there. To find one...contact your local bike shop...or dig around on line...search for headset shim etc. 
Short term, you will be OK with 2mm thick spacer under there....it just won't look very nice and further maybe an opportunity for more ingression as now the seal would be well stood off the bearing. 
You should be able to find one by digging around....or...contact Specialized and state this is a VERY common problem, they know about though may not admit it...and they MAY send you a replacement top cap for your headset. Good companies like Specialized make silent engineering running changes all the time during and between model year production runs to avert custom dissatisfaction and avoid a major problem. They only missed the mark with the top cap design by a few thousands and why they missed it...but it causes a pretty substantial problem as many have discovered. Good news is the overall head set is very well designed.
Good luck.


----------



## rcjunkie3000 (Sep 5, 2009)

Thanks roadworthy, I called my LBS and they have a .5mm available. I will ask to see if they have anything thinner as well. I will buy two just incase I need one for a future Tarmac/Roubaix. =)


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

rcjunkie3000 said:


> Thanks roadworthy, I called my LBS and they have a .5mm available. I will ask to see if they have anything thinner as well. I will buy two just incase I need one for a future Tarmac/Roubaix. =)


I'll offer upfront that I have no firsthand experience with this issue or these shims, but in following along in this convo, thought it might be worth linking to some .25mm shims. 

Cane Creek IS headset shims, 1-1/8" x 0.25mm - bag/10 840226031712 | eBay


----------



## rcjunkie3000 (Sep 5, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> I'll offer upfront that I have no firsthand experience with this issue or these shims, but in following along in this convo, thought it might be worth linking to some .25mm shims.
> 
> Cane Creek IS headset shims, 1-1/8" x 0.25mm - bag/10 840226031712 | eBay


Thanks, I picked up 5 shims from my LBS but I only needed two to completely remove the binding issue. I'll keep the rest as spares. There is no noticeable gap visible and the weather seal still covers the top headset bearing completely.

To note, when I first got the bike it did not have this issue. However, I noticed as I kept changing my stem from different sizes, brands and then flipping it etc, the issue started. 

I'll see if this also takes care of the creaking issue. I have to climb a hill though.

Thanks for the assistance guys!


----------



## minto (Jun 10, 2013)

Cheers Guys, I thought I would post a thankyou.
Started getting this problem about 300m into a new sl4 S works tarmac, shop couldn't help. Noise was awful, especially when getting out the saddle and going uphill, it sounded like carbon or wood tearing.
But the answers were all in this thread, and easy to follow, striped cleaned regreased and added a " O-ring", didn't have a shim, proabably 10mm by 1mm, that stretched nicely over the steerer tube, reassembled and torqued down, and it's absolutely beautiful now.


----------



## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

When my local shop reinstalled the fork with the sleeve they installed the bearings into the headset dry and starting to have an annoying squeak whenever out of the saddle and putting more pressure on the handlebars. I tore the fork down and put a thin layer grease on both the upper and lower bearings, along with doubling up a thin rubber band just under the thin washer has completely eliminated any squeaks. When the local shop took my fork off for retrofit they noticed my rubber band and said it was not suggested as it could cause headset shimmy, but I have never had any problem, even on high-speed descents.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Mtn2RoadConvert said:


> When my local shop reinstalled the fork with the sleeve they installed the bearings into the headset dry...
> 
> When the local shop took my fork off for retrofit they noticed my rubber band and said it was not suggested as it could cause headset shimmy, but I have never had any problem, even on high-speed descents.


If they're the same shop, you should have told them bearings shouldn't be installed dry, either. :wink5:


----------



## bfirstbr (Mar 9, 2008)

*This 2nd Thin Washer Makes Sence*

I have 2 buddies with SL4's, 1 is Pro and the other S-Works and both have this problem. I bought a second hand 2012 S-works SL4 and it came with 2 washers too!


----------



## RanGer498 (Feb 17, 2012)

Hi all
Zombie revive 
Well im in the process of doing a sworks tarmac sl4 build and came across this thread,
Well its funny because i have yet to ride the bike (still bulding it)and was figuring i would mabe have this issue ,well i ordered a set of Cane Creek IS headset shims, 1-1/8" x 0.25mm*just incase to be ahead of the game ...well hopefully I don't ..
But I want to thank you all for this info helps keep me ahead of the game.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

RanGer498 said:


> Hi all
> Zombie revive
> Well im in the process of doing a sworks tarmac sl4 build and came across this thread,
> Well its funny because i have yet to ride the bike (still bulding it)and was figuring i would mabe have this issue ,well i ordered a set of Cane Creek IS headset shims, 1-1/8" x 0.25mm*just incase to be ahead of the game ...well hopefully I don't ..
> But I want to thank you all for this info helps keep me ahead of the game.


You're welcome.
Be sure and come back and review your build with the forum.
Best Regards


----------



## Bordcla (Jun 21, 2012)

I can't see any of the pictures. By chance, could someone show me where exactly to insert that shim, so I may tighten my top cap allen bolt enough to stop all knocking/creaking without impeding the free movement of my handlebar on my Tarmac SL4 Pro?


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

*Pictures for headset shim location...*

Here you go...

A brief explanation is...Specialized missed the mark on the design for the initial low stack height dust cap shown. The downstanding skirt of the cap rubbed on the bearing and bound the headset up with standard pre-load. So what owners did was run with their headset bolt loose which created a knocking issue because suitable preload would bind up the headset. A thin shim in there spaces the lower edge of the dust cap away from the bearing and allows proper tensioning of the headset without the cap binding to the bearing face.














Bordcla said:


> I can't see any of the pictures. By chance, could someone show me where exactly to insert that shim, so I may tighten my top cap allen bolt enough to stop all knocking/creaking without impeding the free movement of my handlebar on my Tarmac SL4 Pro?


----------



## Bordcla (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks roadworthy!

So, if I understand correctly, all I have to do is remove the dust cap, put the shim on top of everything else that is there without moving anything, replace the dustcap, stem, spacer, top cap, and then tighten the top cap allen bolt until there isn't any play, knock or creak, and I'm good to go?

Just to be certain, what is the shim needed? 0.5 mm or 0.25mm (1 1/8 in both cases I assume)? As below?

BTI | Cane Creek IS headset shims, 1-1/8" x 0.25mm - bag/10

Thanks again!


----------



## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

Just as an FYI. This is not an unusual occurrence. I needed two shims for a cannondale super six evo to get the headset right. I believe the issue is slight manufacturing differences in the molded in cups, and the use of low profile top caps.


----------



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Bordcla said:


> Thanks roadworthy!
> 
> So, if I understand correctly, all I have to do is remove the dust cap, put the shim on top of everything else that is there without moving anything, replace the dustcap, stem, spacer, top cap, and then tighten the top cap allen bolt until there isn't any play, knock or creak, and I'm good to go?
> 
> ...


Yup...remove the stem, pick up the spacer stack, pull up the dust shield, insert the shim and reverse of above. I was grateful to figure this out and wonder just how many are riding around with this issue...probably quite a few. Running the headset loose is not a good solution as you know...not good for the bearings either.

Start with the .25mm shim = .010" If not enough, you can add a second shim.

When I say that Specialized missed the mark...no doubt this doesn't affect all Roubaixs and Tarmacs when Specialized implemented the low stack dust shield away from the cone shaped spacer. Depends on the build tolerance of each bike. Further, Specialized likely made a running change on the mold of that spacer to shorten it just a touch to eliminate the issue. Haven't seen it on later bikes.


----------

