# Drill your own water bottle bolts?



## tj90 (Jun 5, 2002)

I just ordered a schwinn madison that DOES NOT come with water bottle mounts on the frame. The frame is not light weight - typical butted steel. I know that there are brackets for a cage (hose clamps etc) but wondering if anyone has drilled a frame and either tapped threads or added PEM nuts (like they do on high end aluminum frames) to a steel frame.

I know if I take a drill to a frame - warranty is invalid at that point, but it does not seem like rocket science either. I would think that the PEM nut approach is the most likely to work since the wall thickness of the steel frame is probably too thin for threading water bottle screws.

The only reason I need a cage is for my niterider battery pack for commuting. Anyone have alternative approaches? The NR cable is not long enough fto route from my handlebars to behind the seat - the next likely location for water bottle cages....


----------



## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

tj90 said:


> I just ordered a schwinn madison that DOES NOT come with water bottle mounts on the frame. The frame is not light weight - typical butted steel. I know that there are brackets for a cage (hose clamps etc) but wondering if anyone has drilled a frame and either tapped threads or added PEM nuts (like they do on high end aluminum frames) to a steel frame.
> 
> I know if I take a drill to a frame - warranty is invalid at that point, but it does not seem like rocket science either. I would think that the PEM nut approach is the most likely to work since the wall thickness of the steel frame is probably too thin for threading water bottle screws.
> 
> The only reason I need a cage is for my niterider battery pack for commuting. Anyone have alternative approaches? The NR cable is not long enough fto route from my handlebars to behind the seat - the next likely location for water bottle cages....




get a NiMH or Li-ion battery back (that velcros to the frame)??

there are clamp on cage brackets that fit to the stem/bars, will give you the old-skool look.









or you could use a basket


----------



## warmseth (May 11, 2006)

they have the bottle brackets that attach to the back of your seat too. 

i wouldn't drill it $.02


----------



## benwitt11 (May 31, 2006)

Most frame builders can add rivet type bottle mounts for a nominal charge. I'm not sure if you have local access to one, but that would be the best way to go for frame mounting. Can you do it yourself, probably, should you though?


----------



## tj90 (Jun 5, 2002)

Thanks for the feedback. I will look into the various solutions. I just wanna ride it. I should probably hold off on anything until I absolutely need it this fall when time changes. In the meantime, I can just stuff a bottle in the back of my jersey.


----------



## ukiahb (Jan 26, 2003)

there is some good info on alternative bottle mounts at
http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss.htm


----------



## sheriff1 (Jan 29, 2007)

Once you check out the alternative bottle mounting options, take a look at this link from the nordicgroup:
http://www.bicyclecoffeesystems.com/
It has the following title in a short PSA section:
"Sucking Scalding Coffee from Bottles with Nipples While Riding"


----------



## tj90 (Jun 5, 2002)

THnaks for the link above. There is a company - 2 fish unlimited - that has a link to the quickcage (velcro) as well as the "black strap" that is a industrial velcro that wraps around the bottle/battery and rubber block on the frame. This might be what I was looking for!


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

I've mounted water bottle cages on old steel frames. 

I mark off the holes, drilled 2 holes. Mix up some JB Weld and put a little dab on each hole. I then "thread" in a bottle cage. If works just fine but I not sure i'd do it to a new frame...


----------



## cy1 (Dec 7, 2004)

*Threaded Pop Riv-Nuts*

I used threaded pop rivets (riv-nuts) on my commuter to add a bottle mount. Batteries are pretty heavy, so I'd be leery if your tubing is thin. Mine have been in place for a few years with no problem.


----------



## Nessism (Feb 6, 2004)

Riv-nuts are the real deal. OEM's like Cannondale and Litespeed use them. They are pretty easy to install and very secure. Don't be afraid to drill. It's the proper way to add water bottle bosses - this side of brazing them in during frame construction.


----------



## totally_fixxated (Feb 6, 2007)

*Gizmo*

+1 Riv-nuts

If you don't feel like drilling, I've had these for 6 years with no problems.

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...type=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop by Brand: Zefal

FYI
The Two Fish didn't work very well at all for me!


----------



## sheriff1 (Jan 29, 2007)

+1 on the two fish not working well. Going over potholes, train tracks and such caused it to rotate towards the drivetrain. A friend suggested cleaning the seat tube and bottle holder with rubbing alcohol but that did not help at all.


----------



## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

Camelback


----------



## Dicky dirtrider (Dec 9, 2006)

*Riv-Nuts for bikes not PEM nuts*

PEM nuts are designed for installing in flat surfaces using a hydraulic press. They won't work on tubing.

Riv-nuts mushroom out behind the hole and are installed by hand. A well equipped bike shop might have them.

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.c...ame-Building&tc=Riv-Nut-Kits&item_id=EN-39205


----------



## tj90 (Jun 5, 2002)

Thanks for the clarification - I meant RivNuts. I have them on my Giant TCR and had to Retighten them 2-3 times using my own homebrew Riv nut mushroom expander ( a bolt and 2 nuts). http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut.html


----------



## Kalukis (Jan 13, 2005)

*2 Fish - BAD IDEA*



tj90 said:


> THnaks for the link above. There is a company - 2 fish unlimited - that has a link to the quickcage (velcro) as well as the "black strap" that is a industrial velcro that wraps around the bottle/battery and rubber block on the frame. This might be what I was looking for!


Heads up; I don't think this is a good idea. I had one on my PISTA, with bad results. 
1. The strap will scratch up your paint. It is very hard to get the strap tight and it is still going to move around, with resultant scratches.

2. One day the one on the down tube got loose when I was going down a very bumpy segment of road; the cage rotated into the rear wheel and got caught up. The good news is that the cage destroyed itself, the bike and rider were ok.

I don't recommend this at all. I've switched to the "Gizmo" type of temporary clamp and I've very happy with it. YMMV.


----------

