# Let's talk inner tube quality



## Fignon's Barber

When Indurain started using Michelin clinchers back in the early 90's, that was my cue to switch to the ease of the clincher tire. I've always used Vittoria ultra lights, bought in bulk once or twice a year. However, lately I've noticed that each batch seems to be of a different quality, maybe even different manufacturer. sometimes they come with removable valve core, sometimes not.
So I started thinking: the simple $5 butyl inner tube is an integral part of our multi thousand dollar machines. Are some better than others? Have brands ever been tested against each other? are there simply one or two tube manufacturers that rebrand for the 100's of different names in cycling? Which butyl tube has the best feel? rolling resistance? durability? no latex discussion, please.


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## morgan1819

Avoid mega-thin, flat prone tubes, unless you have a support van, or enjoy fixing flats.

Other than that, at the end of the day, there isn't a life changing difference in tubes. As long as you get a consistent thickness of .7mm (lighter, for racing) to .9mm (good solid touring) you're fine.

I've had good luck with the Michelin tubes and like the threadless valve stem (doesn't damage the presta head on my pump). But, I honestly can't tell a difference in performance. 

I've recently converted to a tubeless wheel system, and can't really tell a difference in performance there either. YMMV.


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## gordy748

My LBS confided in me that inner tubes are the dirty little secret of the bicycle industry. Basically none work any better at all than the others, yet some cost a ridiculous amount more.

Save money by buying the cheap inner tubes. They will not slow you down one bit. Then spend that money on better quality tires. They WILL speed you up a little bit.


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## Special Eyes

Probably all the same, but I seem to have more leaks around the valve stem base with the cheaper ones. I was using the Specialized 68 gram talced tubes all the time, but now don't worry if my tubes are another 15 grams and more reliable.


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## Jay Strongbow

gordy748 said:


> My LBS confided in me that inner tubes are the dirty little secret of the bicycle industry. Basically none work any better at all than the others, yet some cost a ridiculous amount more.
> 
> Save money by buying the cheap inner tubes. They will not slow you down one bit. Then spend that money on better quality tires. They WILL speed you up a little bit.


I'm cheap and all for saving money but what are cheap tubes going to save me vs decent ones. like $15 a year maybe....I got that kinda cash.

anyway, I've never felt a difference when riding but have had cheaper ones fail so I started buying good ones and haven't had a problems since. forte was the brand that I had problems with if I recall correctly. Now I get Vittoria and sometimes Giant which are a couple bucks, or whatever it is, more and they are better. I didnt care that the cheap ones would lose air quicker but the valves failing pissed me off.


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## Sworker

I was talking to the LBS last week about this as I was stocking up on 60mm tubes for my Roval Fusee's and he had Conti, Vitorros and Specialized tubes. Now these guys change a ton of tires, they blow through 200-300 tubes a week changing out flats in their shop and I asked "what's the difference" and his response was "about $3 bucks." He doesn't see any big differences in teh number or frequency of flats between any of the brands and is pretty sure they are all coming from somewhere in China.

Now as for Forte, that is a pretty garbage brand no matter what product they make...seems like Performance Bikes low cost leader, so I have learned to buy nothing with their name on it. But seems like Specilized, Giant, Vittorro, Conti, Michelin are all about the same quality.


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## MerlinAma

Fignon's Barber said:


> ?... the simple $5 butyl inner tube........


Have you priced the Specialized Turbo butyl tubes lately? 

I used them for a long time but they currently list for $17.00.

Can't figure that one out!


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## Sworker

These are just the regular road tubes. The shop puts one in for like 11.99 with labor.....thankfully I a am groupy there so they do mine for beer and a 5 spot! But not anything special....I have not seen those. The Conti and Michelin ones they charge an extra couple of bucks for, but I don't see alot of difference. They probably all roll out of the same factory in China save the Forte ones that roll out of an even more off the beat place in rice patty china.


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## kbwh

Latex FTW. Sorry, FB.


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## BillyWayne

I put Bontrager XXX Lite on my tri bike. They weigh 54g. During my second training ride the rear tube sprouted 2 holes. With race only a week away I put in regular Specialized tubes. They weigh 105g. This was my first experience with lightweight tubes and I got nervous. I will take finishing with a bit heavier tube than having to pull over and change a tube. I have Specialized, Bontrager, Michelin and Kenda tubes. They are either made in China or Taiwan. For me there is no perceivable difference. I have a friend that is always bothering us to go with latex tubes. I am color blind and tone def so I probably would not be able to tell the difference with latex tubes either.


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## Z6_esb

I will not buy Kenda again. all anecdotal but won't buy again. All of my flats that I have had to change are directly related to the tube failing. I have had no flats (yet) on the road.


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## krisdrum

I've had zero problems with the Forte stuff using them for 5+ years. I buy the ones that are "in the middle" of their weight range. I haven't seen any quality issues (Just checked the website and it seems they are simply called "light" now. 70g claimed weight. 0.6mm thickness). 

Seems others have. Another case of YMMV.


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## tarwheel2

I used to swear by Michelins because of their unthreaded valves and they seemed to last a long time. However, their prices skyrocketed and quality seems to have declined -- particularly with the valves going bad or tubes leaking around the valves. Lately I have been buying Torelli tubes from my LBS and they are great. My LBS sells them for only $5-6 and they have unthreaded valves and seem to last a long time. They also come with a small bag of talcum in each box so you can dust the inside of your tires, which is a nice touch. I only buy unthreaded tubes if I can help it because the threaded ones destroy your air pumps.


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## Z6_esb

tarwheel2 said:


> They also come with a small bag of talcum in each box so you can dust the inside of your tires, which is a nice touch.


Please explain the talcum.


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## krisdrum

Z6_esb said:


> Please explain the talcum.


Talcum is often used to keep the tube and tire from adhering to each other through pressure, friction and heat. I don't personally use it and have never had a problem, but plenty of people swear by it.


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## Z6_esb

krisdrum said:


> Talcum is often used to keep the tube and tire from adhering to each other through pressure, friction and heat. I don't personally use it and have never had a problem, but plenty of people swear by it.


So that's why the tube has that white-ish stuff all over it, eh? Good to know. I had a valve stem (the part the screws in and out) snap off giving me a slow leak. I let all of the air out and that powder (now known as talcum to me) puffed out.


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## GRAVELBIKE

Special Eyes said:


> Probably all the same, but I seem to have more leaks around the valve stem base with the cheaper ones. I was using the Specialized 68 gram talced tubes all the time, but now don't worry if my tubes are another 15 grams and more reliable.


+1

This is especially frustrating because you usually can't patch these types of leaks. I end up retiring tubes that are otherwise fine.


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## orange_julius

kbwh said:


> Latex FTW. Sorry, FB.


With 17 posts on this thread (at the time I write this), you're the only one who's mentioned Latex (versus Butyl). Very interesting .... but I'm a tubeless convert!


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## Fignon's Barber

kbwh said:


> Latex FTW. Sorry, FB.


latex = not for carbon clinchers!


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## bike981

krisdrum said:


> I've had zero problems with the Forte stuff using them for 5+ years. I buy the ones that are "in the middle" of their weight range. I haven't seen any quality issues (Just checked the website and it seems they are simply called "light" now. 70g claimed weight. 0.6mm thickness).
> 
> Seems others have. Another case of YMMV.


+1 on Forte tubes for me as well. I buy the standard ones, not the ultralight and not the puncture resistant. I've had no problems. I've also had good luck with Continental tubes, again the normal weight "Race 700" rather than the "Race Light" or "Ultralight". I don't race so I'd rather have a few extra grams of tube weight and fewer flats.


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## stickney

I would concur that many of these tubes are manufactured at the same place. I know I bought some Nashbar or Performance ones and they still had "KENDA" printed on them. 

I will say that the Continental tubes I have purchased seemed of higher quality (and more expensive). I thought they were less prone to getting a leak at the valve stem than cheaper tubes. 

But, I have had cheap tubes last years and some last a few weeks.


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## ms6073

Fignon's Barber said:


> latex = not for carbon clinchers!


I think that is a case of YMMV. I have used Challenge latex tubes with Reynolds Assault and SDV66 carbon clinchers and aside from an occasional pinch flat due to my failing to take proper precautions when re-inflating after a couple days of non-use, had good results and near tubular ride quality. I also have been using Challenge latex in the carbon clinchers on my cross bikes which get used about 1-1.5 hours per week this time of year and have had one flat - ironically a hole at the base of the valve stem - in the past 12-months.


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