# New Colnago CX-1



## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

Hi everyone,

Been riding a Cannondale SuperSix w/Ultegra's for last 2 years. After drooling over the CX-1 for a while, I decided to order a custom build in red. Should arrive within 2 weeks. Now just ordering all the accessories.

Here is a question - noticed in the pics, few bikes carry a big bag. Is is unfashionable to carry a bike bag on an high-end bike? The one on my SuperSix is tiny... only fits a tool and a tube repair kit.

Or does everyone have a bike bag but chose not to include it in the pics?

Thanks!


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## mtbbmet (Apr 2, 2005)

Never use a saddle bag as they usually chaff the inside of my shorts and cause piling. I just use jersey pockets for tubes.
Congrats on the CX-1. You'll love it.


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## gun2head (Sep 3, 2006)

Whatever floats your boat works! I like the tiny bags so i jam the bare essentials into it. That way I avoid forgetting the necessaries. The rest, I jam in pockets like above.


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## Fluidprawn (Jul 8, 2010)

https://www.performancebike.com/bikes//Product_10052_10551_1031010_-1___











buy something like that and stick it in your jersey pocket.


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

Fluidprawn said:


> https://www.performancebike.com/bikes//Product_10052_10551_1031010_-1___
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Do u also carry a spare tube and hex wrench in your pocket? I guess with all the saving of grams every component, a lack of a saddle bag saves weight...


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## Fluidprawn (Jul 8, 2010)

You're pretty silly if you think you'll never get a flat while out riding.

I don't like having a bag on my bike.. and this pack weighs nothing in my jersey.


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## kbwh (May 28, 2010)

mlin said:


> Or does everyone have a bike bag but chose not to include it in the pics?


I do. Don't tell anyone.


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## icsloppl (Aug 25, 2009)

With a Colnago, style is a concern. even though your frame is made in Taiwan :cryin: 

Check in your owners manual, ch 9 (Colnago Style) -

Riding gear not baggies.
Tyres be most black or matching frame colour.
Steering tube spacer be should minimal.
Seatpost see more than 15cm good.
Rear cog more than 26 no.
Front chain wheel More than 2 no.
Italiano components good than others.
Pannier, barbag, other no tire not competitive.

The last bullet seems to indicate that since tubular tires may be carried in a bag behind the seat, as long as the size of the bag is appropriate for a tubular, the actual contents are not critical.

Welcome to the Colnago familia. :thumbsup:


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## Gnarly 928 (Nov 19, 2005)

found a bag that is just right for a tubular spare, a small mini pump/CO2 combo two tire levers in case my tire totally stuck on or my fingers are freezing, couple of allens and a super small screwdriver, extra chain master link and some wire. Made for Tri Sports, online, and it is perfect. Keeps my spare out of the sun. Not nearly as 'cool' as a tubular lashed right under your saddle for everyone to see...but the CX 1 is not a real Colnago anyway...according to some, so I can be uncool and still not get cited by the "Trendoid Police".


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

this is the only stylish way to carry an spare tubular


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## mtbbmet (Apr 2, 2005)

Gnarly 928 said:


> but the CX 1 is not a real Colnago anyway...according to some.


Yeah, only about 5%(or less) of Colnago's are real. The other 95% are fake/wannabe's. And to some the 5% are not real because they are made with Toray CF or some steel tube set of mystical origin.


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## chuckice (Aug 25, 2004)

Do what you like...I have a rear bottle cage holder on mine so I'm sure I've offended the Clover Polizia nor do I care.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

Somebody please kick me in the arse for reading this entire thread. It was like a train wreck. I just couldn't stop watching.

In the good old days I used to use an old toe strap to tie my spare tubular to the back of my saddle using the saddle rails. Nowadays, hardly anybody rides tubulars so this is almost uncool nowadays. So, the spare tubular, CO2 inflator, and spare CO2 go in the middle pocket. My 16 oz. soft flask of goo goes in the right pocket along with my phone and/or Ipod player. My house keys, wallet, cash, and salt pills go into a ziploc bag in the left pocket. All in all, I think the jersey weighs 5+ pounds with all this crap in it. However, I have no need for a saddle bag with those 3 pockets on the back of my jersey. During the colder months, I get another 3 pockets to use.

Cool aside. While finishing up a group ride a couple years ago and cooling down, we passed a couple riders that weren't on our ride and we started talking to them. I heard one of these guys tell a buddy behind me "That guy up there must be really serious about riding since he is carrying a spare tire." I had to laugh. I don't think most casual cyclists even know what a tubular is.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

this is what I do.

I have on of those "Cellphone socks" that cell phone companies give for free. it is elastic and it is tissue and not plastic. 

I fit there inside all what I need on the road, 2 CO2 cartridges + inflator, 2 tire levers, 3,4,5 and 6 Hex wrenches, 1 screwdriver.

This fits easily on the small zipped pocked I have over the center back pocket. this leave me the 3 back pockets free.

I put the iPhone alone in the left pocket ( don't want to scratch it ), center pocket is reserved for the folded wind jacket or arm warmers ( depends on the weather, it could also be empty ) and keys, coins etc on the right pocket.

So my jersey is not loaded with unnecessary things.

As I usually carry only one water bottle and I have 2 bottle cages, I put the folded spare tubular on the other bottle cage. no saddle bag necesary.

ps. this is not a colnago, but I'd do the same with the colnago if I had the tubulars on it.


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## Vientomas (Jul 18, 2007)

Here you go:

http://cgi.ebay.com/nice-road-bike-...43693054?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_6672wt_1137


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

My new build:


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## ghostryder (Dec 28, 2009)

Very nice bike. The correct choice of wheels. You will not be disappointed. They are awesome .


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## gun2head (Sep 3, 2006)

sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Are those the Easton carbon -clinchers-??
How do you like them (were you able to put any miles on them previously?)?


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## icsloppl (Aug 25, 2009)

It looks like the frame is about 4cm too large and your stem spacers may be over the "i probably won't break" max (2.5cm IIRC).


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

icsloppl said:


> It looks like the frame is about 4cm too large and your stem spacers may be over the "i probably won't break" max (2.5cm IIRC).



The frame is the right size as I'm 5'11". The 52cm frame is actually equivalent to my Cannondale 54cm frame.

You are right about the stem spacers. Asked the dealer few days ago on how to cut the 2 notches off of it as the handlebars feel too high.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mlin said:


> The frame is the right size as I'm 5'11". The 52cm frame is actually equivalent to my Cannondale 54cm frame.
> 
> You are right about the stem spacers. Asked the dealer few days ago on how to cut the 2 notches off of it as the handlebars feel too high.


Remove 2 of the spacers underneath the stem and then put the stem back on. Put those 2 spacers you removed from underneath the stem on top of the stem and then put the steerer cap back on. Ride it like that for a while and if it turns out to be the correct height buy a cutting guide for the steerer tube and use a small toothed hacksaw to get the job done. I just cut 5mm off of my C50 steerer tube because I ended up lowering the stem. Of course, I took the entire fork off the frame, put the cutting guide in a vise, and then cut the 5mm off.

I think Spin Doctor and Park Tools both make a cutting guide.


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

fabsroman said:


> Remove 2 of the spacers underneath the stem and then put the stem back on. Put those 2 spacers you removed from underneath the stem on top of the stem and then put the steerer cap back on. Ride it like that for a while and if it turns out to be the correct height buy a cutting guide for the steerer tube and use a small toothed hacksaw to get the job done. I just cut 5mm off of my C50 steerer tube because I ended up lowering the stem. Of course, I took the entire fork off the frame, put the cutting guide in a vise, and then cut the 5mm off.
> 
> I think Spin Doctor and Park Tools both make a cutting guide.



Disclaimer on the posted pic is that it's a pic of the bike right before it was sent to me so it does look awkward that the seat looks lower than the handlebar.

Anyways, I did move the 1st spacer above the stem and it was definitely an improvement. 

The issue is that the 2nd spacer will not budge! It can't be glued on can it? Any way to dislodge it without damaging it?


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mlin said:


> Disclaimer on the posted pic is that it's a pic of the bike right before it was sent to me so it does look awkward that the seat looks lower than the handlebar.
> 
> Anyways, I did move the 1st spacer above the stem and it was definitely an improvement.
> 
> The issue is that the 2nd spacer will not budge! It can't be glued on can it? Any way to dislodge it without damaging it?


It is not glued on. Sometimes, they fit very tight. I had that issue with my C50 when I was taking the spacers off. Try too apply the force evenly to it or one side of the spacer digs into the steerer tube. If that does not work, put a paper towel or thin rag around it and use some pliers to pull up on it. Again, apply pressure evently. You can also try a little grease but make sure you wipe it ALL off after you take the spacer off. How tall is the spacer? 5mm, 10mm, etc.


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

fabsroman said:


> It is not glued on. Sometimes, they fit very tight. I had that issue with my C50 when I was taking the spacers off. Try too apply the force evenly to it or one side of the spacer digs into the steerer tube. If that does not work, put a paper towel or thin rag around it and use some pliers to pull up on it. Again, apply pressure evently. You can also try a little grease but make sure you wipe it ALL off after you take the spacer off. How tall is the spacer? 5mm, 10mm, etc.



The spacers are 20mm, 10mm, 10mm - the last of which I was able to move. I definitely want to remove another 10mm. I'm hoping not 30mm total as it will start to look silly and expedite the need for a hacksaw.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mlin said:


> The spacers are 20mm, 10mm, 10mm - the last of which I was able to move. I definitely want to remove another 10mm. I'm hoping not 30mm total as it will start to look silly and expedite the need for a hacksaw.


LOL 30mm of spacers above the stem would look ridiculous. I keep 10mm to 15mm above the stem just in case old age sets in and I want to raise the bars. Essentially, I ensure that I have 30mm worth of spacers and the stem on the steerer tube. That allows me to go as high as recommended on mounting the stem should I really need it. Nothing like paying $700+ for a new fork.

I think I have some 10mm black metal spacers laying around. Try the pliers on it and if you scratch it let me know. I'll drop one in the mail to you, assuming you are in the US. I can handle 50 cents to mail it. Now, $20+ for overseas, not so much.


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## Gnarly 928 (Nov 19, 2005)

fabsroman said:


> It is not glued on. Sometimes, they fit very tight. I had that issue with my C50 when I was taking the spacers off. Try too apply the force evenly to it or one side of the spacer digs into the steerer tube. If that does not work, put a paper towel or thin rag around it and use some pliers to pull up on it. Again, apply pressure evently. You can also try a little grease but make sure you wipe it ALL off after you take the spacer off. How tall is the spacer? 5mm, 10mm, etc.



My CX-1 was the same way. I found that the stem cap nut system sucks. It expands the steerer tube carbon when you make it tight enough to adjust the headset properly...Or maybe my headset was faulty and required excess force from the cap nut...Anyway, I use the friction anchor from a DeRosa in mine, and I have replaced the headset bearing (at an outrageous price, and now the spacers are not so tight. The steerer tube still has a slight bulge from that, but I no longer have to loosen up the cinch-nut (or whatever you call the part you screw the stem cap into to tension the headset) in order to get the spacer off the stem.

Be aware that there are two top spacers, the ones that cover the top headset bearing races, they are one right over the other....there is a short one that a tall one fits right over...so if you want to get your bars lower, you can remove the outside top bearing cover..

It's a pretty "Italian" set up...looks good, but maybe a bit.....over attractive and under acheiving?...Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't part with my CX-1 for anything...love it, best bike I have owned yet.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

Gnarly 928 said:


> My CX-1 was the same way. I found that the stem cap nut system sucks. It expands the steerer tube carbon when you make it tight enough to adjust the headset properly...Or maybe my headset was faulty and required excess force from the cap nut...Anyway, I use the friction anchor from a DeRosa in mine, and I have replaced the headset bearing (at an outrageous price, and now the spacers are not so tight. The steerer tube still has a slight bulge from that, but I no longer have to loosen up the cinch-nut (or whatever you call the part you screw the stem cap into to tension the headset) in order to get the spacer off the stem.
> 
> Be aware that there are two top spacers, the ones that cover the top headset bearing races, they are one right over the other....there is a short one that a tall one fits right over...so if you want to get your bars lower, you can remove the outside top bearing cover..
> 
> It's a pretty "Italian" set up...looks good, but maybe a bit.....over attractive and under acheiving?...Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't part with my CX-1 for anything...love it, best bike I have owned yet.


Good point. The steerer expansion plug could very well be the problem. It could have expanded the steerer tube enough to make it very tough, if not impossible, to get the spacers off. Not too terrible to loosen the steerer expander plug and pull the spacers off if you know what you are doing. Then, putting it back in is a little challenging. You had to make it a little tight before putting it back in or it will just slide down to the bottom of the steerer tube, or put it back in while the bike is upside down. LOL

Now, I will have to go back and look at the "Italian" setup.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

fabsroman said:


> LOL 30mm of spacers above the stem would look ridiculous. I keep 10mm to 15mm above the stem just in case old age sets in and I want to raise the bars. Essentially, I ensure that I have 30mm worth of spacers and the stem on the steerer tube. That allows me to go as high as recommended on mounting the stem should I really need it. Nothing like paying $700+ for a new fork.
> 
> I think I have some 10mm black metal spacers laying around. Try the pliers on it and if you scratch it let me know. I'll drop one in the mail to you, assuming you are in the US. I can handle 50 cents to mail it. Now, $20+ for overseas, not so much.


also if you plan to resell the bike at some point, then it is better to keep the stack of spacers over the stem.

the next buyer could want to have them under his.

BTW most colnagos are designed to be optimal fitted without spacers under the stem. Is that true also with the CX and CLX series ?


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

Salsa_Lover said:


> also if you plan to resell the bike at some point, then it is better to keep the stack of spacers over the stem.
> 
> the next buyer could want to have them under his.
> 
> BTW most colnagos are designed to be optimal fitted without spacers under the stem. Is that true also with the CX and CLX series ?


Me, I think that is a bunch of BS about them being designed to fit without any spacers underneath the stem. That might be true for the traditional frames that are offered in 1cm increments, but not for the sloping frames that are offered in only a few sizes with gaps in between. For instance, a 48 sloping is equivalent to a 52 traditional. The next size up is a 50 sloping which is equivalent to a 54 traditional. My C50 is a 53 traditional. There isn't a sloping frame available that matches its geometry. Funnier thing is that I have 7.5mm of spacers on my 50 sloping frames and 22.5mm of spacers on my traditional frame underneath the stems. The traditional frame has a 1/2cm shorter reach and that is what works for me. I will probably take another 5mm of spacers off the traditional C50 though so the drop to the bars matches the Cristallo.

I will completely agree with not cutting the steerer tube all the way down to the stem just in case the next owner wants to put the bars up higher or old age demands the bars be put up higher.

The pro bikes can be cut all the way down to the stem because 1) they aren't worried about resale and 2) they can just ask Colnago for another fork and it is free while we have to pay $700+ for a new fork. Their bikes need to look sexy to convince us to buy those Colnagos when we see them on the pro circuit. Extra steerer tube doesn't look quite as sexy.


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## mtbbmet (Apr 2, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> BTW most colnagos are designed to be optimal fitted without spacers under the stem. Is that true also with the CX and CLX series ?


To a certain extent, yes they are. The head tubes on all Colnago's are quite tall in comparison to other brands. I have the low rise head set top cap installed, and my stem right on top of it, and I could only get my saddle to bar drop to within 1cm of where I like it. There was quite a bit of hesitation for me to buy the bike because of the HT length as I knew it would be an issue before I bought it. But I'm fine with being not quite so slammed. The postion makes it much more comfortable to spend an hour and a half in the hooks.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mtbbmet said:


> To a certain extent, yes they are. The head tubes on all Colnago's are quite tall in comparison to other brands. I have the low rise head set top cap installed, and my stem right on top of it, and I could only get my saddle to bar drop to within 1cm of where I like it. There was quite a bit of hesitation for me to buy the bike because of the HT length as I knew it would be an issue before I bought it. But I'm fine with being not quite so slammed. The postion makes it much more comfortable to spend an hour and a half in the hooks.


Why not buy the next size down and use a longer stem with spacers under it to get the reach and bar height where you need them?


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## mtbbmet (Apr 2, 2005)

fabsroman said:


> Why not buy the next size down and use a longer stem with spacers under it to get the reach and bar height where you need them?


Because I would rather loose that 1cm of drop than be forced to use a 130mm stem.


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

fabsroman said:


> Good point. The steerer expansion plug could very well be the problem. It could have expanded the steerer tube enough to make it very tough, if not impossible, to get the spacers off. Not too terrible to loosen the steerer expander plug and pull the spacers off if you know what you are doing. Then, putting it back in is a little challenging. You had to make it a little tight before putting it back in or it will just slide down to the bottom of the steerer tube, or put it back in while the bike is upside down. LOL
> 
> Now, I will have to go back and look at the "Italian" setup.



Tried for the 5th time to get that 10mm spacer off but it's stuck on with the kung-fu grips of God. Is there definitely a steering expander plug involved?


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## Runr44 (Oct 29, 2009)

Spacers aside, that is one fine looking machine. It is exactly the Colnago I have been jonesing for for the last couple of months. Let us know how it rides once you get it setup the way you like it.


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## Gnarly 928 (Nov 19, 2005)

mlin said:


> Tried for the 5th time to get that 10mm spacer off but it's stuck on with the kung-fu grips of God. Is there definitely a steering expander plug involved?



I would say "Yes". From my experience that is exactly what is happening what is seizing the spacer on there, the expander plug is making the steering tube bigger.

Just reach down in there with the appropriate size allen and loosen the expander up...It is no big deal, give it a go and see. I bettcha that is what you got going on there...I certainly had the exact same behavior on my CX-1.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mlin said:


> Tried for the 5th time to get that 10mm spacer off but it's stuck on with the kung-fu grips of God. Is there definitely a steering expander plug involved?


There is definitely a steerer expander plug involved, just like Gnarly already said. Take the top cap off the top of the steerer. The expander plug is actually what the top cap screw into. Look down at it and it should take a 6mm hex key to loosen it. If you loosen it up too much, it will fall to the bottom of the steerer tube, but don't panic. just tip the bike over and let it fall back out. To put it back in, insert half of it and hold the other half with your left hand while tightening the expander plug with your right hand just enough that it has a little grip. Then, using the hex wrench push it down as far as you need it to go. Don't push it down too far because that top cap still needs to be able to screw into it. Best bet, measure how deep it is before you take it out and insert it back to the same spot.

Maybe you will get lucky and the expander plug will not move at all after you loosen it up enough to get those spacers out.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mtbbmet said:


> Because I would rather loose that 1cm of drop than be forced to use a 130mm stem.


Yeah, I am lucky in that regard. I am running a 110 stem with the 7.5 and 22.5 mm's of spacers. I wouldn't want to go to a 130 stem either. Figured that might be the reason why you chose the larger frame, or that you were already running a 130 on the larger frame and needed the extra length of the top tube. Lesser of 2 evils I guess.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

according with this article, a size down and a 130mm stem is the way to go with colnago

http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/reviews/colnago.shtml

you'd need a good back flexibility though

I have a 120 on my EP 52s but could put on a 125 ( if they existed )

The C40 has a 110 and the handlebar height is 1mm higher than what I prefer, but alas that is a 57cm and I guess I would be better on a 56 or even a 55


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## mlin (Aug 5, 2008)

Runr44 said:


> Spacers aside, that is one fine looking machine. It is exactly the Colnago I have been jonesing for for the last couple of months. Let us know how it rides once you get it setup the way you like it.


Wow, once I loosened the expander plug, the spacers came right off! Thanks everyone!


With this bike, I wanted to customize it for me but I also upgraded everything I can:

2008 Cannondale SuperSix frame --> 2010 Colnago CX-1
Shimano Ultegra SL --> Campy Record 11
Easton EC-70 Carbon --> 3T Ergonova Team Carbon handlebars
Controltech Scored 99 --> 3T ARX LTD stem
Mavic Ksyrium Elite --> Easton EC90 SL Carbon wheels
Fizik Arione Mg --> Fizik Arione CX Carbon braided saddle
Fizik Bar tape --> Deda Bar tape
Shimano Ultegra pedals --> Shimano Dura Ace pedals
Michelin Krylions --> Vittoria Open Corsa EVO
Profile Design carbon cages --> Zipp carbon cages
Cateye Micro100w wireless --> Garmin 500
Shimano R1000 --> Sidi Genius 5 shoes

I can't believe the difference between the 2 bikes. My Cannondale was already as good as any bike I've seen in group rides and small events. I can say that I'm more comfortable and faster with the Colnago as it's about 1.5 inches longer on reach (120mm stem included) which helps my long torso. But it's likely the combination of the upgrades that's the difference.

The biggest improvements are 1. handlebars, 2. wheels, 3. frame
Biggest disappointments are 1. Garmin 500 (sucks under tree cover and power lines), 2. Sidi shoes (I think i just need to break them in more), 3. campy record (louder and less smooth than I thought but I probably need to adjust)


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Agree with you.

I thought about the Garmin, but ended buying a Cyclemeter iphone app for $5 and complement it with my Sigma cheapie computer. no need of Garmin stuff.

I can't yet see the appeal on Campy other than it's Italian. Shimano Dura Ace is hard to beat.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

mlin said:


> Wow, once I loosened the expander plug, the spacers came right off! Thanks everyone!
> 
> 
> With this bike, I wanted to customize it for me but I also upgraded everything I can:
> ...


My Garmin Edge 705 has been a PITA. I actually returned the first one I bought to Performance under their 100% satisfaction guarantee and had them exchange it for a new one. Different day, different problem. I cannot wait for Garmin to get some competition in this arena.


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## Gnarly 928 (Nov 19, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> Agree with you.
> 
> I thought about the Garmin, but ended buying a Cyclemeter iphone app for $5 and complement it with my Sigma cheapie computer. no need of Garmin stuff.
> 
> I can't yet see the appeal on Campy other than it's Italian. Shimano Dura Ace is hard to beat.


 I met up with some guy in Fresno..he was riding a Trek and he had his I-phone mounted on the bars. I was traveling and wanted to get a hard day of climbing in the mountains to break up my trip...Stranger to Fresno area and it was foggy as helk. This guy was all over showing me exactly where to go, while we were riding through downtown Fresno in the traffic. I had my 305 Garmin along. Weird and scary riding between a guy who's pushing buttons on his handlebars and a bunch of urban dwellers talking on their phones in vehicles.

Anyhow, my Edge saved my butt...Once into the foothills I rose above the fog and did a nice 80 mile loop...but I came back into Fresno on a different highway...and hit that fog right at dusk...My Garmin track function led me back to the right boulevard to get to my vehicle, despite a pea-soup valley fog and darkness and brutal fatigue. Fresno looks pretty much the same everywhere to a stranger in the fog and dark...but Garmin led me "home"


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## Dave IV (Jan 20, 2009)

fabsroman said:


> Somebody please kick me in the arse for reading this entire thread. It was like a train wreck. I just couldn't stop watching.
> 
> In the good old days I used to use an old toe strap to tie my spare tubular to the back of my saddle using the saddle rails. Nowadays, hardly anybody rides tubulars so this is almost uncool nowadays.
> 
> .


I have been riding tubulars since since 1972 and continue to ride them exclusively today. The only real way to carry a spare is to roll it up, stuff it inside an old sock and strap it to the rails of the saddle with an old toe strap. Oh, and the freaking toe strap better be leather; not some gay nylon strap. Saddle bags are for fairies and poseurs. So there!


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