# Specialized Roubaix 2011 vs 2013



## pjcandre (Jun 28, 2011)

Hi All,

I want to buy a Roubaix because of some back problems and lack of flexibility.
Looking at 2013 models, my wallet liked the white elite model. Nevertheless its a bit expensive (around 2.400€).
My LBS can get me a 2011 comp SL2 frame (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2011/roubaix/roubaixsl2compc2rival), and mount my existing bike components for a very good price (770€). I currently have a Sram Rival complete groupset, mavic ksyrium equipe wheels, and a Pro vibe 7s kit on the front (all in good condition).
I think its a very good deal, but Im afraid that its an outdated frame.
Is there many diferences beteween both frames?
Whats your opinion?

Thanks,

Paulo


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## Devastazione (Dec 8, 2011)

Welcome to the forum.

Speaking of geometry and graphics 2011 and 2012 frames are pretty much the same and they're both sort of outdated compared to 2013's anyway. If you can't brake the piggy bank for a 2013 with a 2011 you'll do just fine imho.


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## knobster368 (Aug 29, 2009)

Only real difference is internal brake routing on the 2013 compared to the 2011.


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## young-nyc (Oct 28, 2011)

Unless you are going for the 2013 SL4 expert or higher its not really worth getting a 2013 model. The 2013 elite is basically the same as the prev years sl3 judging fom the frame's design. I would at least go for the SL3 than a SL2 if you can. So you may be able to get a 2012 model cheaper. Good luck


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## pjcandre (Jun 28, 2011)

Thanks for the answers,

I have noticed that the 2013 model have the cobra headtube, same has last year SL3.
Does anyone knows the weigth diference on those 2 frames?
More opinions are welcome!
Thanks.


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

*Um...*



pjcandre said:


> Thanks for the answers,
> 
> I have noticed that the 2013 model have the cobra headtube, same has last year SL3.
> Does anyone knows the weigth diference on those 2 frames?
> ...


Several thoughts:

- 770 pounds or about 1250 U S dollars is a good deal for the 2011 SL2 with your components moved over. As you already know, it'll cost to come up with a lighter, better Roubaix.

- It's hard to figure weights on Spesh gear, they don't really advertise frame weights, for whatever reason, but I'm sure you can find them out somewhere. It's a little confusing, but just in terms of frame weight, it sort of goes like this:

SL2 = FACT8 carbon, heaviest

SL3 = FACT10 carbon, considerably lighter

SL4 = FACT11 carbon, lightest, and really pricey

In addition, from year to year, Specialized tweaks the Roubaix tube design, dimensions, makes changes in the Zertz inserts, and so forth, to come up with something even better. So weight aside, a 2013 has some design refinements over a 2011. You might not be able to tell the difference, but you might. I went to a Roubaix for the same reasons you did, got a great deal on a never-used 2008 SL2 QuickStep frame with SRAM Apex and so-so Mavic CX-22 wheels. I liked it so much that I went out and got a 2012 Roubaix Pro SL3 frameset and built it up with SRAM Force, Specialized carbon bars, and Boyd Vitesse wheels with Michelin Pro3 Service Course tires. The difference between the two bikes is like night and day, and weight is not the only difference. The 2012 is much more responsive and precise on the road. 

- I also got a Specialized BG fit, the one that's just below the 3-D video fit, and I highly recommend it. I have basically had my position pretty well dialed in for some years now, but the BG fit really refined it and put me in the best position I've ever been on a bike, and I have the whole printout of all the measurements so I can duplicated it on any bike. So I not only have a Roubaix that's easy on my aging body, I have it set up perfectly so I feel like I can do a century, no sweat...


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

A little clarifiacation on above. 

SL2 = 8r 

SL3 = 10r 
SL3 S-Works = 11r

SL4 = 10r
SL4 S-Works = 11r


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## pjcandre (Jun 28, 2011)

*Have decided...*

Hi All,

Thanks for all your inputs.
I've decided to upgrade to the 2011 SL2!
Only needed to buy a seatpost and a new chain.
Only did a small ride, but I can say that it's a blast.

Regards,

Paulo


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

*You did just great...*



pjcandre said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Thanks for all your inputs.
> I've decided to upgrade to the 2011 SL2!
> ...


...and at a reasonable price, too. Enjoy!


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## tnvol123 (Sep 11, 2012)

Sweet bike! Congrats!


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## Ndman05 (Nov 1, 2012)

*Switching from Roubaix SL3 to Roubaix SL4 frame*

Hi,

Is there any difference in the geometry between Roubaix SL2, SL3 and SL4 frames?
meaning, if I have to replace my SL3 with SL4 frame - should I check for frame size again or I can ask for the same frame size as SL3?

Thanks


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## cmschmie (Apr 20, 2012)

Hey all, 
Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead, but I am in a similar situation as the OP.
My LBS does not have any 2013 Roubaix Experts in stock, or at least not in my size. They searched and found several in the area and will bring one in if needed, but they do have several 2012s.
The price savings between the 2012 and 2013 is _just_ enough to make me think that I can live with the 2012. Also, saving a few hundred bucks will score points with the boss 

I am coming from a 2009 Allez Elite so it'll be an upgrade all around no matter which one I decide to buy. I also will have a BG fit done for the new bike.

I put a 2012 on hold and will test ride this weekend. Is there any reason I should say "screw the 2012, give a 2013"?

Thanks
Craig


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

*I think you can live with the 2012...*



cmschmie said:


> Hey all,
> Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead, but I am in a similar situation as the OP.
> My LBS does not have any 2013 Roubaix Experts in stock, or at least not in my size. They searched and found several in the area and will bring one in if needed, but they do have several 2012s.
> The price savings between the 2012 and 2013 is _just_ enough to make me think that I can live with the 2012. Also, saving a few hundred bucks will score points with the boss
> ...


...there is a difference in the frame, supposedly the 2013 is "more like the Tarmac"...fine but my 2012 SL3 is just fine. You ought to be getting a 2012 for about $3000, instead of $4000, if that's not what your LBS is offering, google it, they're out there...


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## cmschmie (Apr 20, 2012)

Thanks for the reply. The price I was quoted over the phone was ~$3000. Actually, it was $3100 with $100 in store gift certificate.

I did a little more in-depth research and saw that the geometry between the 2012 and 2013 is identical. And to top if off, both are manufactured from 10r carbon. So as far as I can see, the biggest difference is the size and placement of the Zertz inserts.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

There are more changes to the SL4 frame. The head tube is different and size specific. The seat and chain stays are wider and straighter. I forget the other changes. Go to YouTube and there are some videos where they describe the changes. 

The SL3 is still a fine bike and you can save some $ by going that way.


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

Right answer. Pull the trigger on the 2012 and you'll ride happily, ever after. 




scottma said:


> There are more changes to the SL4 frame. The head tube is different and size specific. The seat and chain stays are wider and straighter. I forget the other changes. Go to YouTube and there are some videos where they describe the changes.
> 
> The SL3 is still a fine bike and you can save some $ by going that way.


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## cmschmie (Apr 20, 2012)

Thanks guys. I know, I know . Been looking for a while, just making sure all my bases are covered.
Test ride this weekend to confirm sizing and BG fit probably next week depending on fitter's schedule.


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## tailwinds (Mar 3, 2007)

I just listed for sale a 2009 S-Works Roubaix SL2. The carbon used in that frame is 10r, not 8r as stated somewhere above. I replaced it with a Roubaix Pro SL4, also 10r.

This is my fifth Roubaix, so obviously I am a true fan of them. I skipped the SL3 because they did not have the internal cabling perfected, so shifting performance is degraded on most setups. In my opinion, the greatest advance in design and performance was the transition from the SL to the SL2.


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## cmschmie (Apr 20, 2012)

Well the test ride(s) this weekend went well.
Long story short, as a result of: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/specialized/nice-sale-new-specialized-bikes-303146.html , I will soon be the owner of a Charcoal/Blue SL4 Roubaix Expert.
The price difference between the SL3 and SL4 became negligible and the SL4 I did ride felt fantastic. They just didn't have my size.

The bike should arrive at the shop later this week and then one day next week I'll go in for the BG fit.
Thanks for the pointers guys (and gals?). Had Specialized not had their 2013 bikes on sale, I would have walked out with an SL3 over the weekend.

Will definitely add a pic to the Picture Thread once I get it home.


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## steveandbarb1 (Dec 27, 2009)

Make sure it fits! I have back issues and have found that the top tube on the roubaix is bit too long for me, so going custom.


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

tailwinds said:


> I just listed for sale a 2009 S-Works Roubaix SL2. The carbon used in that frame is 10r, not 8r as stated somewhere above. I replaced it with a Roubaix Pro SL4, also 10r.
> 
> This is my fifth Roubaix, so obviously I am a true fan of them. I skipped the SL3 because they did not have the internal cabling perfected, so shifting performance is degraded on most setups. In my opinion, the greatest advance in design and performance was the transition from the SL to the SL2.


Yep, I heard the story about the SL3 cable routing problems. All I can say is that I had the bike built and set up by Bike Source in Denver, and I've had no problems...


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## tailwinds (Mar 3, 2007)

Yeah, I did not mean to imply that it is impossible to perfect the shifting on the SL3; that is why I said "on most setups". In my experience, which includes building several SL3's working as a wrench, they _can_ be setup well, but a lot depends on the skill, knowledge, and patience of the builder (not to mention the amount of time allowed to do the build). Also, it matters what component group you are dealing with. 

Reduced to just one thing, the secret is to minimize the friction of the shifting system, from beginning to end. That is always a good idea, but in my opinion, it is much more critical on the SL3 than any of the other Roubaix frames.

Another thing to consider is the 'longevity' of the build/setup. I have seen many bikes work flawlessly when they left the shop as a new bike, or with a fresh tuneup that included a new set of cables and housing, but when they got dirty, wet, or both, the shifting became imprecise at best. This can happen on the first ride, or a couple of weeks down the road. Sometimes it happens in the middle of a week-long bike tour.

Regardless, it is not unavoidable--it does not have to happen--it is just harder to avoid with the SL3. A great way to perfect and extend the durability of your setup is to install the 'Gore Professional Shift System'. It greatly reduces friction and, properly installed, seals out dirt and water. The first time I have an excuse, I will invest in a set for my new SL4.


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

tailwinds said:


> Yeah, I did not mean to imply that it is impossible to perfect the shifting on the SL3; that is why I said "on most setups". In my experience, which includes building several SL3's working as a wrench, they _can_ be setup well, but a lot depends on the skill, knowledge, and patience of the builder (not to mention the amount of time allowed to do the build). Also, it matters what component group you are dealing with.
> 
> Reduced to just one thing, the secret is to minimize the friction of the shifting system, from beginning to end. That is always a good idea, but in my opinion, it is much more critical on the SL3 than any of the other Roubaix frames.
> 
> ...


...sounds good, first time I have an excuse, I will install it on my SL3...


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

However...rumor has it that Gore is out of the cable business, although I guess Jagwire or some similar may continue to make them for SRAM...any details?


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## tailwinds (Mar 3, 2007)

I heard (actually read) that Gore was discontinuing production, in the latter part of 2012 I think. (they must have another ox to Gore that is more lucrative) Seems like it was last Spring or Summer that I read about it in Bicycle Retailer or someplace. I remember thinking that I should buy several sets to get me to the end of my life. The combination of my normal procrastination and the prospect that SRAM was coming to the rescue (same article) led to me doing nothing so far. I have been out of the LBS insider loop for 18 months or so; consequently no hard data. Just searched 'gore ride-on cables' and came up with plenty of sources. Also checked on SRAM's site:

Professional Shift Cable System by Gore Ride-On | SRAM

My first personal use was with the first iteration of the SRAM Red group. They were having some issues with the cables (coated, probably Gore, on all but the first 10 cm or so) they supplied with the shifters. The coating on the cables deteriorated rapidly and looked like fur. It created lots of drag or friction in the housings (not Gore) and the Red 'Exact Actuation' was no where near exact as a result. The Gore system solved the problem completely! It shifts as well as anything I have ever had. Recently, I switched the group to another bike without disassembling the cables and housing. It was all external, so no problems doing that. I extracted the cables far enough to wipe them down with some silicone spray on a shop towel and very little mark was left on the towel, meaning that dirt had stayed out of the system for three years. The last two or three rides on the old bike were in snowmelt, some mud, and the dirt and gravel you have at the end of Winter, plus I rode the bike in downpours a couple of times in the past, so the grub seals and all had a real test. It works just as flawlessly on its new home. It will be interesting to see how much longer it lasts.

Sorry to ramble on and on, but I guess the bottom line is I think it is well worth the expense and the perplexity you experience trying to figure out the screwy pictures on the installation instructions.


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

tailwinds said:


> I heard (actually read) that Gore was discontinuing production, in the latter part of 2012 I think. (they must have another ox to Gore that is more lucrative) Seems like it was last Spring or Summer that I read about it in Bicycle Retailer or someplace. I remember thinking that I should buy several sets to get me to the end of my life. The combination of my normal procrastination and the prospect that SRAM was coming to the rescue (same article) led to me doing nothing so far. I have been out of the LBS insider loop for 18 months or so; consequently no hard data. Just searched 'gore ride-on cables' and came up with plenty of sources. Also checked on SRAM's site:
> 
> Professional Shift Cable System by Gore Ride-On | SRAM
> 
> ...


Oh-kay. I'm not going to be doing any biking, or much of anything, for the next month while I heal up from a tibial plateau fracture I sustained in the 2013 Master's National Alpine Championships (ski racing...an even stupider sport than riding a bike...) so I'll have plenty of time to look into this. One question: I have internal cable routing, and I don't see anything in the SRAM/Gore package that provides a sheath to get the cables through the tubes...am I missing anything?


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## purdyd (Jun 18, 2010)

SkiRacer55 said:


> Oh-kay. I'm not going to be doing any biking, or much of anything, for the next month while I heal up from a tibial plateau fracture I sustained in the 2013 Master's National Alpine Championships (ski racing...an even stupider sport than riding a bike...) so I'll have plenty of time to look into this. One question: I have internal cable routing, and I don't see anything in the SRAM/Gore package that provides a sheath to get the cables through the tubes...am I missing anything?


The sheath that allows internal routing comes with the frame not as part of the brifters


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

purdyd said:


> The sheath that allows internal routing comes with the frame not as part of the brifters


Enough. To hell with it. If my shifting goes south, I'll just go to my LBS and let them deal with it...


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

I had a 2011 SL2 Comp with 5700 105 external cabling. That bike always shifted perfect. Could not have been any better. Loved it. Unfortunately, a serious crash that cracked the frame (and some broken bones) was the end of the SL2. I put the components on another frame, (a Surly) and it also shifts great. My new bike is an SL4 Expert Ultegra internal cabling. I could never get that bike to shift as well as the SL2. Nothing terrible, but not as good. The LBS also gave it a shot and still not what I wanted. I blame the extra drag of the internal cable routing for the decrease in performance. Never rode an SL3, but worse than what I experienced with the SL4 would not have worked for me.

Just so happens I got a very smokin deal on a Ui2 upgrade kit. That was done last week and my problems are gone. Perfect shifts every time. Very quiet operation as the jockey to cassette alignment is always spot on. I'm very happy with it.

Could the mech shifting been improved with some different cables, or some more work? Probably. With the deal I got on the Ui2, I guess I'll never know.


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## tailwinds (Mar 3, 2007)

The 'sheaths' DO come with the complete set. The difference between the tubes or sheaths that come with the set and the ones that come with the bike is that you remove the tubes that come with the bike after passing the cables through them. The Gore or SRAM kit has tubes that are long enough to run from the entry points (stops) into the downtube all the way to the derailleurs, and when combined with the grub seals, result in a sealed system. The most vulnerable point left is at the shifters where the bare cables are routed out to the cable housings. This area is covered by the hoods and bar tape.

SkiRacer, your conclusion is valid IMO. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Your response to my original post indicated you were happy with the way your SL3 shifts now, so the only reason you should change it now is if you know you have a long tour coming up that is likely to include foul weather and dirty or muddy roads. Also, I think it would be well worth the money to have your LBS wrench do the job (provided he or she has experience with installing the system). If you cut one of those tubes short, you can't achieve the goal of sealing up the system. 

Finally, whenever the time comes to change cables & housings, go for the sealed system, even though it will probably cost you 50 or 75% more than a Shimano SIS cable set, installed. If it is done right, you will be really happy with the result and the cost will be less in the long run.

Good luck healing up!!


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

tailwinds said:


> The 'sheaths' DO come with the complete set. The difference between the tubes or sheaths that come with the set and the ones that come with the bike is that you remove the tubes that come with the bike after passing the cables through them. The Gore or SRAM kit has tubes that are long enough to run from the entry points (stops) into the downtube all the way to the derailleurs, and when combined with the grub seals, result in a sealed system. The most vulnerable point left is at the shifters where the bare cables are routed out to the cable housings. This area is covered by the hoods and bar tape.
> 
> SkiRacer, your conclusion is valid IMO. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Your response to my original post indicated you were happy with the way your SL3 shifts now, so the only reason you should change it now is if you know you have a long tour coming up that is likely to include foul weather and dirty or muddy roads. Also, I think it would be well worth the money to have your LBS wrench do the job (provided he or she has experience with installing the system). If you cut one of those tubes short, you can't achieve the goal of sealing up the system.
> 
> ...


Thanks, and I promise I will stop foaming at the mouth. I think I'm just annoyed because, regardless of whatever cables I have on my 2012 SL3, I ain't gonna get to ride it again until I get out of my No-Load brace and off crutches in a month.

You've convinced me that it's worth doing. I'm not experiencing *bad* shifting performance, but it could be better. So I'm gonna get the SRAM kit and...either do it myself or let the LBS do it. I used to be a bike mechanic (no laughing...) but that was back in the era where you took everything apart in the spring, doused it in kerosene, replaced the bearings and whatever else needed replacing, regreased all, and put it all back together. We didn't *have* no steenking DI2, or internal cables, or brifters, or any of that other stuff. So I'll order the set and try to do it myself. If I fail, no big deal. I had a similar experience with the SRAM chain watcher...ordered it, thought it was going to be a piece of cake, and it wasn't, so the LBS finished the job...no big deal...that's why we have LBSs...


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## bikeriderguy (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks all for the great advice
Ride happy!


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