# FSA RD-400 Wheelset



## Fignon's Barber (Mar 2, 2004)

has anyone used these? look light , stiff, and reasonably priced.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Fignon's Barber said:


> has anyone used these? look light , stiff, and reasonably priced.


cyclingnews.com just did a review.

http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2004/reviews/fsa_wheels_cranks_bb_1


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## bikewriter (Sep 2, 2002)

Dave Hickey said:


> cyclingnews.com just did a review.
> 
> http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2004/reviews/fsa_wheels_cranks_bb_1


Someone here on rbr has a pair and says they are 100grams more than advertised (no surprise), but cyclingnews said they were actual weight. Hmmmm.


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## terry b (Jan 29, 2004)

bikewriter said:


> Someone here on rbr has a pair and says they are 100grams more than advertised (no surprise), but cyclingnews said they were actual weight. Hmmmm.



Yep - that's me. I did weigh them and they came out at 1558g. I believe my scale is pretty accurate - comparing it to published values over hundreds of items that I have weighed, it has a nice variance around those numbers both lower and higher. I also just weighed a pair of customs that came with certified weights and my little weigher was dead on.

Now, I did weigh them with the rimstrips installed (who wants to pull those off just to weigh?) so that 1558g might be more like 1520g. Velox strips for example weigh 36g for the pair. However, the 1520g should be pretty close to reality. Since every MFGrd item will have a range of weights, perhaps FSA just made sure that Cyclingnews got a pair closer to the advertised value. They obviously didn't care about catering to me.  

As far as the wheels go - they ride nicely, they show good construction detail, they offer a good value for the price. Downside is they are a little bit on the noisy side when coasting - not as bad a Chris King, but louder than Campy, Hugi and Speedcific. (the review confirms this) Even at 1520g, they're still pretty darn light, especially for $429 bucks. I'd buy another pair.


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*another pair*



terry b said:


> Yep - that's me. I did weigh them and they came out at 1558g. I believe my scale is pretty accurate - comparing it to published values over hundreds of items that I have weighed, it has a nice variance around those numbers both lower and higher. I also just weighed a pair of customs that came with certified weights and my little weigher was dead on.
> 
> Now, I did weigh them with the rimstrips installed (who wants to pull those off just to weigh?) so that 1558g might be more like 1520g. Velox strips for example weigh 36g for the pair. However, the 1520g should be pretty close to reality. Since every MFGrd item will have a range of weights, perhaps FSA just made sure that Cyclingnews got a pair closer to the advertised value. They obviously didn't care about catering to me.
> 
> As far as the wheels go - they ride nicely, they show good construction detail, they offer a good value for the price. Downside is they are a little bit on the noisy side when coasting - not as bad a Chris King, but louder than Campy, Hugi and Speedcific. (the review confirms this) Even at 1520g, they're still pretty darn light, especially for $429 bucks. I'd buy another pair.


i also have a pair and i came up with ~1510 when subtracting estimated weight for the rimstrips. i agree that the are pretty noisy, especially wen compared to my old DA hubs. when i repack them some day i will try slick 50 or similar and see if that helps.

i have had them up to 50+mph in descents and have found them to be rock solid so far. i have also hit some bumps pretty hard (185#) and in couple hundred miles and they are still perfect. the ride was a little harsher/firmer than my previous OPs, but i put the vittoria EVO corsa CGs and WOW!! - what a diff over the bonrager race lites. now it is reallly like i am riding on indoor/outdoor carpet all the time. 

i would definitly reccomend the 400s and also reccomend matching them with the CGs. after almost getting the bontrager x-lites, i still am happy with my choice and think it is a lot of bang for the buck.

oh yeah, the cheesey FSA stickers come right off and leave you with a cool-looking black wheel.


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## ehjertberg (Apr 26, 2004)

*About FSA 400 cassette whrrrr...*

Pardon me for weighing in, since I'm with FSA and therefore highly biased. I couldn't help notice reference to cassette noise. My personal preference is to remove the body from the hub shell (2 - 5mm allens suffice) and add a more grease to the pawl steps. Use a grade that won't be thick at the lowest temperature you experience. If you use too much, the body won't ratchet freely which would slack on the top run of your chain while coasting. You'll notice that a slight increase in lubrication dramatically reduces pawl noise. Mine is all but silent, and yours can be too.

Regarding weights, yes, we're more than 1450 at present. #1, rim strips weigh about 35g. #2, the rim's weight varies up to 5-10% during the life of the extrusion dies (1000 rims each). This translates to 50-100g of possible difference between wheel pairs. This is true for all wheels.


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## terry b (Jan 29, 2004)

Thanks for the tip. I'm usually reluctant to start messing around with the guts of new products until I've ridden them for a while, but I will definately take the grease step if the noise ever begins to bother me. For your side though, you might want to suggest they use more of or a different grease from the get-go. Bear in mind, most cyclists wouldn't even consider taking a cassette body off, so they're not about to go looking to solve this kind of noise problem. Rather, your product is going to develop an unwarranted reputation that is easily addressed. Truly, look at what cyclingnews said. Better to sell it right in the first place than do post-sale field modifications.

They're great wheels by the way. I'm really happy with mine.


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*thanks for the info*



ehjertberg said:


> Pardon me for weighing in, since I'm with FSA and therefore highly biased. I couldn't help notice reference to cassette noise. My personal preference is to remove the body from the hub shell (2 - 5mm allens suffice) and add a more grease to the pawl steps. Use a grade that won't be thick at the lowest temperature you experience. If you use too much, the body won't ratchet freely which would slack on the top run of your chain while coasting. You'll notice that a slight increase in lubrication dramatically reduces pawl noise. Mine is all but silent, and yours can be too.
> 
> Regarding weights, yes, we're more than 1450 at present. #1, rim strips weigh about 35g. #2, the rim's weight varies up to 5-10% during the life of the extrusion dies (1000 rims each). This translates to 50-100g of possible difference between wheel pairs. This is true for all wheels.


good to know someone from FSA is here. i have 2 FSA products on the bike - the rd 400s and the compact elite cranks and i have been really happy with both. 

a couple questions - before i add more grease to the rear hub, shouldn't i remove the old grease first (keep in mind that the existing grease is not very old, ~4 mos.)? also, is there any specific grease you recommend?

some feedback on the cranks - for $300 you guys should just include the self-extracting bolts. also i guess the reduced Q-factor is a good thing, but it is so reduced that the chain rubs on the big chain ring (when it is on the small chain ring) and on the smallest rear cog. i know this isn't a gear i need to be in, but it seems like it should still clear.

keep in mind these are small nits on what i think are great products - hopefully they are useful.

also, i would like to see a review of your seats. are you aware of any?


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## Fignon's Barber (Mar 2, 2004)

Thanks to all for the info. Just bought a pair of the 400's from Wise Cycle Buys. I'll have them to ride by wednesday, and will race with them on sunday.


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## bikewriter (Sep 2, 2002)

$429 shipped is pretty good, right? Did you pricematch to get a better deal from somewhere else?
Does Wisecycles include free shipping if they have to pricematch?


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

Don't know about wheelsets for sure, but I assume they will still ship for free even with a price match. I just bought a crank, BB and cassette with price match and they shipped for free.

Bryan


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## Fignon's Barber (Mar 2, 2004)

Wise also has great service and stand behind evrything they sell too. They have helped me out a few times on service issues, something that should be put into the equation as well.


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## Mike Prince (Jan 30, 2004)

*2 different issues*



lostrancosrd said:


> also i guess the reduced Q-factor is a good thing, but it is so reduced that the chain rubs on the big chain ring (when it is on the small chain ring) and on the smallest rear cog. i know this isn't a gear i need to be in, but it seems like it should still clear.


I think you're a bit confused - q factor and chainline are not directly related how you are making it sound. Q factor is the offset of the crankarms from the centerline of the frame, while the chainline is the distance from the centerline of the frame to the midpoint between the chainrings (on a double). The matching bottom bracket spindle for a given crank is specified to achieve the target chainline (43.5 mm for Shimano doubles) - if a shorter or longer bb spindle is used, it will impact both the chainline and the q factor, but there is no direct relationship between the two - the difference between chainline and q factor is a constant once the sytstem is designed.

I guess the poiint I'm trying to make is that q-factor is not causing your chain to rub the big ring. It is a common flaw in Shimano double drivetrains and is easily fixed with a 1 or 2 mm spacer under the driveside bb cup. Q-factor will determine how far apart your feet are when in the pedals, but not much else.


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

Mike Prince said:


> I think you're a bit confused - q factor and chainline are not directly related how you are making it sound. Q factor is the offset of the crankarms from the centerline of the frame, while the chainline is the distance from the centerline of the frame to the midpoint between the chainrings (on a double). The matching bottom bracket spindle for a given crank is specified to achieve the target chainline (43.5 mm for Shimano doubles) - if a shorter or longer bb spindle is used, it will impact both the chainline and the q factor, but there is no direct relationship between the two - the difference between chainline and q factor is a constant once the sytstem is designed.
> 
> I guess the poiint I'm trying to make is that q-factor is not causing your chain to rub the big ring. It is a common flaw in Shimano double drivetrains and is easily fixed with a 1 or 2 mm spacer under the driveside bb cup. Q-factor will determine how far apart your feet are when in the pedals, but not much else.


thanks, that makes sense. when i called fsa (or maybe it was the guy at wise-cycles) ans explained the problem i was told it was due to the narrow Q-factor of the crank - so i went with that.

since my DA double had never rubbed, i associate the new prob with the new cranks. i can easily see how 1-2mm shimming would solve the problem, but i am not sure if it is worth the trouble. have you ever done it? is it easy?


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## Mike Prince (Jan 30, 2004)

lostrancosrd said:


> since my DA double had never rubbed, i associate the new prob with the new cranks. i can easily see how 1-2mm shimming would solve the problem, but i am not sure if it is worth the trouble.


 If the noise doesn't bother you and it only happens when you are in the big ring/small cog combo, then I would not bother - just stay out of that gear, which you really shouldn't use anyway


lostrancosrd said:


> have you ever done it?


 Yes.


lostrancosrd said:


> is it easy?


If you installed the bb yourself, it is very easy since you have the proper installation tool. Remove the crankarms, remove the bb and when you reinstall it, slip a 1mm spacer under the drive side cup before you re-thread it into the frame. Tighten the bb cups to the proper torque, reinstall the crankarms and you are done. You may have to readjust your front derailleur limit screws so that the chain shifts to the large ring and does not derail to the inside. It is very easy. If this doesn't sound easy, your LBS should be able to handle the job inexpensively. The spacers are available at www.loosescrews.com for something like $0.80, but you'll have to buy some other stuff to hit their order minimum. Or, your LBS should have them or be able to get you a few.


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## ehjertberg (Apr 26, 2004)

*More from FSA*

Regarding removing the pre existing grease if adding more to an FSA cassette: I'm too lazy to do that. The factory grease is quite light and I doubt its presence will diminish any product you add. Grease in a freehub is primarily an acoustic buffer and moisture (oxidation) fighter. So mixtures are not dangerous.

Second, regarding extracting screws on the Compact crank, we don't include them because of the difference between ISIS and Octalink (Shimano) crank-spindle unions. Let's disregard the pro's and con's of the two systems. Octalink cranks sit on short flutes and are relatively easy to remove. Hence, Shimano makes broad use of self extraction. Such screws have just a fraction of the pulling power of a conventional crank tool, but with Octalink, it's enough.

ISIS, however, is a taper fit. An ISIS crank wedges very tightly to the spindle, so pulling ISIS cranks is much harder than Octalink. Self extraction is difficult, sometimes leading to screw fracture, retaining cap stripping, or plain exhaustion. If you use self extracting screws with ISIS, do so only in an emergency. Whenever possible, use a conventional puller.


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## fasteddie (Jun 20, 2003)

ehjertberg said:


> Pardon me for weighing in, since I'm with FSA and therefore highly biased. I couldn't help notice reference to cassette noise. My personal preference is to remove the body from the hub shell (2 - 5mm allens suffice) and add a more grease to the pawl steps. Use a grade that won't be thick at the lowest temperature you experience. If you use too much, the body won't ratchet freely which would slack on the top run of your chain while coasting. You'll notice that a slight increase in lubrication dramatically reduces pawl noise. Mine is all but silent, and yours can be too.
> 
> Regarding weights, yes, we're more than 1450 at present. #1, rim strips weigh about 35g. #2, the rim's weight varies up to 5-10% during the life of the extrusion dies (1000 rims each). This translates to 50-100g of possible difference between wheel pairs. This is true for all wheels.


So, if I follow your directions to remove the hub shell, is there any danger of springs, pawls and bearings flying everywhere ????


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*finally got around to adding the grease to the free hub*

i am not sure if anyone else has got around to doing this yet, but it is REALLY quick and easy. it took me less than 15 mins from wheel on to wheel back on and rolling. that includes the time i spent cleaning all of the cogs in the cassette and going slow because i had never taken a free hub apart.

it is now silent although it seems to spin a little less, but i assume it will break in pretty fast.


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## mellowman (Apr 17, 2004)

lostrancosrd said:


> i am not sure if anyone else has got around to doing this yet, but it is REALLY quick and easy. it took me less than 15 mins from wheel on to wheel back on and rolling. that includes the time i spent cleaning all of the cogs in the cassette and going slow because i had never taken a free hub apart.
> 
> it is now silent although it seems to spin a little less, but i assume it will break in pretty fast.


Thanks for the update. Although I think the noise may only be a problem with Shimano versions. I got Campy ones and they are quieter than my chorus hubs. The guy in the review from cyclingnew (link above) had Shimano components on his bike but had gotten a Campy version of the RD 400 to review. He specifically mentions it was easy to switch cassette bodies. He also was impress by how silent they were. Seems like you guys run Shimano...

*BTW, how easy was it to get the Corsa Evo CX (CX not CG right?) mounted*? I am currently run Rubino Pros but they are just too much work to mount/unmount. Conti GP 3000s are too much work. I used to run Corsa CXs and I could mount them with my hands easy on CXP33s.


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## fasteddie (Jun 20, 2003)

I agree that the Campy version runs MUCH quieter than my own Nucleons. It actually caught me off guard as I as expected a C.King type whirring.

My new set weighs in at 1574g, with rims strips of course - 124g heavier than advertised. I had an incredibly difficult time mounting GP3000. 10 minutes, 4 hands and a tire lever were necessary (does not include remount after a pinched tube). FSAs and GP3000s are a TERRIBLE combination.


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## Hereford Flyer (Aug 12, 2002)

My pair of RD-400's (shimano freehub) came in at 1490g without rim tapes. Took the stickers off and dropped 14g to 1476g.
Mounted Veloflex Blacks on mine they were very tight to mount. A good tip is to put a light smear of washing up liquid / soft soap on the last bit of bead to go on - makes a big difference.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

Have a set coming in tomorrow, will pop them onto the scale (they are the Campy version). Will be used as an all round beater set- so I will tell you how durable they are.


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*actually i am running the CGs*



mellowman said:


> Seems like you guys run Shimano...
> 
> *BTW, how easy was it to get the Corsa Evo CX (CX not CG right?) mounted*? I am currently run Rubino Pros but they are just too much work to mount/unmount. Conti GP 3000s are too much work. I used to run Corsa CXs and I could mount them with my hands easy on CXP33s.


you are right about the shimano drivetrain. from looking inside the disassembled hub, i can see no reason why the campy would be quieter than the shimano hub unless they FSA builds up the campy hubs at the beginning of the week and then starts to run low on grease by the time they get to the shimano wheels...  

regarding the tires, i am running the CGs not the CXs. i had got used to the wider 25s i run during the winter on the wet roads and decided to try the CGs @ 24mm and have been VERY impressed with the ride. i tried them looking for a durable high-end tire that would be relatively light and ride like a tubular but have the slightly wider profile for stability in high speed descents (40+ mph) - so far so good!

they were a b!tch to get on the first time and i wonder if i could do it roadside w/o levers. so far i have less than 200 miles on the tires, and have not had to try to change then.


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## mellowman (Apr 17, 2004)

lostrancosrd said:


> FSA builds up the campy hubs at the beginning of the week and then starts to run low on grease by the time they get to the shimano wheels...


Or the guys building the wheels have a certain preference, .

The difficulty with mounting tires has me worried about being able to change roadside. I'm gonna try the Corsa CXs. Its the easiest tire I've ever mounted, don't think that changed with the new Evo types.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

*FSA RD400s vs Mavic K's SSC SL's real world weights*



Coolhand said:


> Have a set coming in tomorrow, will pop them onto the scale (they are the Campy version). Will be used as an all round beater set- so I will tell you how durable they are.


They are in. On my digital scale:

2004 FSA RD400's (without skewers, with rim tape):

front: 701
rear: 852
total: 1553
skewers: 143 (they are porky. I am replacing the rear with Campy Chorus skewer (fits my trainer better too).

2004 Mavic K's SSC SL

front: 680
rear: 867
total: 1547
skewers: 108 (much nicer skewers IMHO)

Price difference, roughly $400 at retail for 6 grams not counting the skewers. $400 buys lots of Ti skewers. . .


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

*FSA RD 400's*

Has anyone had difficulty getting thru to Wise Cycle Buys for these or anything else? I am interested in getting these, but if it's that difficult to even place an order, what happens if I do get these wheels (have seen them on ebay too) and down the road, I need to replace a spoke? 

Have not been able to get through to WCB by email or phone all day today....

Maybe I just need to be more patient? What has been the experience of others?

Thanks,
Paul.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

paulg said:


> Has anyone had difficulty getting thru to Wise Cycle Buys for these or anything else? I am interested in getting these, but if it's that difficult to even place an order, what happens if I do get these wheels (have seen them on ebay too) and down the road, I need to replace a spoke?
> 
> Have not been able to get through to WCB by email or phone all day today....
> 
> ...


FYI- FSA sells these through Quality Bike Parts (QBP) to shops everywhere. That is why you are seeing so many of them on Ebay as of late. You may want to look on Ebay for a set or see if you can cut a deal with a local shop.


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## bikewriter (Sep 2, 2002)

Wise Cycles replied to an email I sent last week very quickly but when I wanted to buy (a chorus 10v cassette), they just disappeared! So I purchased the item elsewhere.


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## fasteddie (Jun 20, 2003)

*it was eBay for me...*



Coolhand said:


> FYI- FSA sells these through Quality Bike Parts (QBP) to shops everywhere. That is why you are seeing so many of them on Ebay as of late. You may want to look on Ebay for a set or see if you can cut a deal with a local shop.


I bought my set of RD-400s on eBay. Final price was less than $400 shipped. A few e-tailers I contacted wanted about $200 more than that.


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*doug at bicycletires.com $379*

that is where i got mine. i have had both excellent and horrible shipping luck with doug (the wheels showed up in 5 days, a saddle once took a month for him to call and tell me he forgot to order it). he seems like a nice guy and with the fsa 400s i had great luck and he gave me a great price. here is the link http://www.bicycletires.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=666 you can try to call him or just leave an email - i think email is more reliable unless you happen to catch him live on the phone.


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

lostrancosrd said:


> that is where i got mine. i have had both excellent and horrible shipping luck with doug (the wheels showed up in 5 days, a saddle once took a month for him to call and tell me he forgot to order it). he seems like a nice guy and with the fsa 400s i had great luck and he gave me a great price. here is the link http://www.bicycletires.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=666 you can try to call him or just leave an email - i think email is more reliable unless you happen to catch him live on the phone.


Thanks for the link. Seems as though I'm finding these wheels at other locations for under $400. I am also thinking of the Shimano DuraAce 7701. Any thoughts on which would be a better choice?

Have you been happy with the FSA's?

Thanks again,
Paul


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## lostrancosrd (Feb 4, 2004)

*don't know a thing about the 7701s*



paulg said:


> Thanks for the link. Seems as though I'm finding these wheels at other locations for under $400. I am also thinking of the Shimano DuraAce 7701. Any thoughts on which would be a better choice?
> 
> Have you been happy with the FSA's?
> 
> ...


but i am sure they are nice. scroll up in this thread and you will find my comments on the fsa's and you can search to find a longer version posted in another older thread.

in short, i like them especially with the softer-riding vitttoria evo corsa cgs. i think they are a lot of wheel for the $ and recommend them. my next wheels (cause, like everyone else, i like to collect cool stuff) will likely be a custom build of my 7700 hubs with sapins or the like.


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## Marlon (Mar 17, 2004)

*Another happy FSA RD-400 Owner!*

I've got another vote for Doug at BicycleTires.com. I don't know if he ever reads this forum, but if I need some other stuff, I'll buy from him. Great service!

Regarding the wheels, I've got nothing but good to say about them. Yeah, they're stiff wheels but slap some proper rubber on them, go easy on inflating over 120psi, and they're a fun wheelset to ride and priced extremely well too. It's probably the placebo/new wheel effect but I think they're great. The skewers have been criticized as being a little weighty, but I think they're pretty nice - well-crafted, easy to use, and most importantly, quick to release when necessary and tight otherwise.

The RD-400's are great after-market wheels with a bit of that "I'm got something other than OPs" gee-whiz factor!


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## mellowman (Apr 17, 2004)

Update:

Have now tried mounting the following tires on RD-400s.

Vittoria Rubino Pros - Extreme difficulty
Conti Ultra 2000 - Hard difficulty
Conti GP 3000 - Hard difficulty
Vittoria Corsa Evo CX - Rather difficulty

The Corsa Evo CXs were brand new and I just finished putting them on. Took 45min. My hands are raw. I may get blisters and I thought I broke my thumb for a moment. Finished drenched in sweat. Whole time I'm thinking, WTF? 

I think I know why they seem priced so well. There screwed up wheels. The argument that some tubular users make that clinchers take longer to change than tubulars. Well the RD-400s are the poster child for that argument. 

I'd recommend spending an extra $100 and get equivalent wheels without the headache of unmounting and mounting than these RD-400s.


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## TACSTS (Feb 4, 2004)

I'm really interested in getting a new set of wheels to upgrade over my Ult/OP's (nothing wrong with them, but hey new wheels are cool) and I'm considering these and Cane Creek Aeroheads. I know the FSA are more, but they're also quite a bit lighter. Can anyone compare the two? And more importantly, I'd really like to see a pic of a bike that has the FSA's on it, if anyone has one. thanks!


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

Sorry to hear that tire mounting was such a problem. Were you using metal or plastic levers to mount them? I was on a ride with some friends when one of them flatted and the plastic levers were worthless. With metal levers, the tire change took about 5 - 10 minutes max. 

Has anyone else had difficulty mounting tires to the RD400's? Please speak now, I was just about to make a call to purchase. If it's that difficult, I'd have second thoughts.

Thanks,
Paul.


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## grandemamou (Jan 31, 2004)

*I have about 500 miles on mine*

and yes I had trouble mounting a set of Veloflex Paves on mine. Once the tire is stretched out it's much easier. I can do it by hand now. The first time I tried by hand and had problems. Plastic levers worked fine. 

I got mine for $390. Cheaper than the Open pros with Record hubs they replaced. Overall nice wheels. I'd do it again. I tested them side by side with my existing wheels,Velomax Ascent II, and Ksyriums and I found zero differences in performance. The biggest difference was price. These were much cheaper. 

As for the weight differences 100 gms works out to ~1.5 ounces per wheel. No way you would notice the difference.


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## mellowman (Apr 17, 2004)

I like to use the crankbros speedlever which is plastic. Have metal levers and up till now didn't need to use them. Using the metal levers for unmounting tires on the RD-400s is easier than the speed lever but still a difficult. I'll be amazed if the the CXs stretch out so I can do them by hand on these wheels.


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## salome (May 9, 2004)

*Aero profile?*

What is the aero profile of the 400's? Does the elliptical rim shape make a difference?


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## Marlon (Mar 17, 2004)

*Axial Pro slight difficulties as well*



mellowman said:


> Update:
> 
> Have now tried mounting the following tires on RD-400s.
> 
> ...


I have to agree, mounting tires is a bit difficult with the RD-400s, almost impossible if you're trying to do them by hand. Then again, I was mounting brand new Axial Pro Races, and new tires in my experience are always a bit tighter the first time...

Given the general quality of the wheels (and my experiences with a bunch of other wheels) and given that I don't swap out my tires all that often, I'd say a few minutes of sweat are a small price to pay (for me) for the wheels.

- Marlon


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

Well, I took the plunge and purchased these - on ebay for less than $350. Couldn't believe it - the seller did a second chance "buy it now" after I had been outbid! 

Will follow up with a review once I have a chance to try 'em. Right now I'm using Shimano R535's. 

Appreciate everyone's input too!

Thanks,
Paul.


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## mellowman (Apr 17, 2004)

Another Update:

Seems I put a small leak in the rear tube during mounting but the pressure held up overnight. Had to unmount, patch and mount again and mounting it was ok this time. Still need lever(s) to mount but its not much of a problem now. Seems the Corsa CXs loosen up pretty quick. Definitely go with Vittoria Corsa Evo CXs if you have FSA RD-400s.


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

Any thoughts on the Vittoria Techno Pro tires with these wheels? They seem to be a good quality, light weight, performance tire. On sale at Supergo (actually out of stock there) and Performance. Wondering if anyone has tried these?

Thanks,
Paul


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

*The man in brown just...*

dropped the RD-400's off about an hour ago at my office. First to the scale, 1545 grams with rim strips in place. 695 front 850 rear, right in line with my my Eurus. I mounted a set of Axail Pro Lights on them, no more difficult than the Eurus mounting the same tire. I hope to be able to give a first ride report later tonight!


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

Please let us know your impressions. I just received my wheelset today. They look very nice and well crafted. Still waiting for tires/cassette.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

*FD-400 rode impression.*

I wanted to ride at least 100 miles before giving my impression of these wheels. The stickers were nicked up a little from mounting the tires, no big deal, so I removed them, now even a little lighter and more stealth looking. The wheels handle great! Very smooth bearings and very good resonse to steering input. The ride is about as comfortable as my Eurus wheelset. Climbing and descending are both acceptable, the just don't quite look as good as the Eurus. They also tracked very well in the corners and handled bumps and rough roads well. Overall I'm very pleased with them and they will make a good alternative to my Eurus. My previous back up wheels were just back up wheels and never ridden, I'll have no problem switching back and forth from the RD-400 to the Eurus. For the money I think they are a great wheelset and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone even as their main wheels, just ditch the stickers. The real test is to see how they are after about 3,000 and how easily they bearings are to get and change.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

*Warning- broke rear wheel spoke on 5th ride*

These were only my back-up training wheels. So haven't got much use. Was riding them today, small ring climbing a short hill- with no real load when a rear wheel non-drive side spoke popped. Wheel was barely ridable- had to take the cable out of the brakes to get enough room, and had to stand as sitting made the wheel worse. 

GRRRRRRR, only 5 rides, none of them all that rough and a spoke goes. I am not very impressed. I guess there is still a few QC issues to be worked out and noted by others in this thread. My LBS is calling FSA today.


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## slingshot (Jun 8, 2004)

*fsa r400 weight*

Just got these wheels-
$307 on ebay
weight is 696 front, 863 back with rim strips

I'll let you know how mounting the tires goes


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## tri_fast_eddie13 (Jan 7, 2002)

*How about the RD 600 wheels?*

I'm in the process of building up the (almost) no holds barred, (almost) no expense spared dream bike. I've opted to go with the RD 600 instead of the RD 400 wheels. They have a slightly deeper rim and a little more sexy factor. Other than that, I can't tell you why I made that decision.

So far as the weight goes, they weigh exactly 0 grams, as they have not yet arrived. In Feb. they said March. In March they said April. Now they say July. No matter though. I have a broken arm and won't be able to tide until August. Heck if they had arrived in April, they probably would have gotten trashed in the wreck that bent my Xaeros!

Anybody heard pros & cons of the RD600?


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

Coolhand said:


> These were only my back-up training wheels. So haven't got much use. Was riding them today, small ring climbing a short hill- with no real load when a rear wheel non-drive side spoke popped. Wheel was barely ridable- had to take the cable out of the brakes to get enough room, and had to stand as sitting made the wheel worse.
> 
> GRRRRRRR, only 5 rides, none of them all that rough and a spoke goes. I am not very impressed. I guess there is still a few QC issues to be worked out and noted by others in this thread. My LBS is calling FSA today.


Rear wheel is being RMA'ed back to FSA. They did answer the phone on the first ring, and didn't give me any problems about the wheel- so that's good. 

We will see what happens from here.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

tri_fast_eddie13 said:


> I'm in the process of building up the (almost) no holds barred, (almost) no expense spared dream bike. I've opted to go with the RD 600 instead of the RD 400 wheels. They have a slightly deeper rim and a little more sexy factor. Other than that, I can't tell you why I made that decision.
> 
> So far as the weight goes, they weigh exactly 0 grams, as they have not yet arrived. In Feb. they said March. In March they said April. Now they say July. No matter though. I have a broken arm and won't be able to tide until August. Heck if they had arrived in April, they probably would have gotten trashed in the wreck that bent my Xaeros!
> 
> Anybody heard pros & cons of the RD600?


They look interesting, but they are sort of vaporware right now. You may want to have a back-up plan depending on how long it takes your arm to heal. They may not be available in August.


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## paulg (May 21, 2002)

*Mounting tires - RD 400*

Just a follow up. Mounted the Vittoria Techno Pro Integra's. Was alot of work, but got them on. I figured the tires were new and not broken in yet. Went out for one 20 min. test ride so far. So far so good. Big change over the Shimano M535's! Very light and responsive so far. Will follow up again after more rides. 

Note: I had to remove the small round head screws on the ultegra brakes where the wheel guides are. Not sure what function they serve, if any, anyway. Apparently the rim protrudes slightly beyond the braking surface and these screws would have scored the rim!! There is plenty of brake pad left too. Otherwise no problems. 

Paul.


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## heatstroke (Mar 30, 2004)

Schwalbe stelvio are near impossible, I could barely manage with plastic tyre levers. 
I too broke a rear non driveside spoke. After 500+ miles and when cruising along. Am waiting endlessly for Doug at bicycletires to send a replacement.


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## johnny99 (Apr 2, 2004)

fyi - here's another product review: http://www.bicycletest.com/absolutenm/templates/bt.asp?articleid=90&zoneid=23
Too bad the actual weights are somewhat higher than advertised.


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