# Best Clipless pedals



## Nick09

I am new to cycling and am in the market for new clipless pedals. I've been leaning towards the Speedplay Chromoly Zeros (I like the idea of double sided entry and adjustable float), but I have read too many mixed reviews to just go ahead and buy them. I am asking for your experience with Speedplay Zeros (If you have one), and your recommendation on pedals. I am willing to spend around 125 max.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## HEMIjer

If double sided is a must look at Crank Borthers. I use them on mtb and RB, and have been very happy so have others on this forum and mtbr.

If you use Road shoes I would go with quattro.

If your using mtb shoes quattro is still good but look at candies.


----------



## Nick09

HEMIjer said:


> If double sided is a must look at Crank Borthers. I use them on mtb and RB, and have been very happy so have others on this forum and mtbr.
> 
> If you use Road shoes I would go with quattro.
> 
> If your using mtb shoes quattro is still good but look at candies.



Double sided entry is not a must, but it would be nice. I am using road shoes also.


----------



## lactic acidosis

Nick09 said:


> Double sided entry is not a must, but it would be nice. I am using road shoes also.


in the spirit of the previous posts, i'm nominating Speedplay Zeros.


----------



## PJ352

Just curious what your reasoning is for liking the idea of double sided with adjustable float. Ease of entry? Knee issues?


----------



## Nick09

PJ352 said:


> Just curious what your reasoning is for liking the idea of double sided with adjustable float. Ease of entry? Knee issues?



Double sided entry... hopefully will be easier to clip in
Adjustable float... Because I've never used clipless pedals, and have no idea how much float I will like or need.


----------



## elcameron

Double sided is NOT easier to enter; you do not know how they will be setting. Single sided always float to the same position. You just drag your foot across the pedal and you're in. 

I have tried many, and always come back to Looks. BUT, Knee issues or a lot of sideways movement in your pedal stroke and you might want something else. Luck.


----------



## PJ352

Nick09 said:


> Double sided entry... hopefully will be easier to clip in
> Adjustable float... Because I've never used clipless pedals, and have no idea how much float I will like or need.


Ok, speaking of sides, there's another one to tell. 

IMO you're reasoning basically says you're somewhat afraid to jump into the clipless world, preferring to step in cautiously. There's really no need, because no matter what brand/ model you opt for, there will be a learning curve. But in a relatively short period of time, you'll become accustomed to the entry/ release/ adjustment mechanism's and from then on it'll be second nature to you. 

That said, if you've decided to go with road shoes, IMO/E the Shimano Ultegra/ 105 pedals are among the best. They're very well designed/ refined, offer 6 degrees of float with the standard cleats (enough for most riders) and have a larger than average and stable platform with adjustable release. 

But whatever brand/ model you decide to go with, after initial setup spend some time becoming familiar with the entry/ exit mechanism and you're good to go! :thumbsup:


----------



## clipz

im using keo sprint pedals and there 1 sided and i have no problems getting in or out of them. im still a newb just thought id help out a bit! there great pedals!


----------



## California L33

Nick09 said:


> I am new to cycling and am in the market for new clipless pedals. I've been leaning towards the Speedplay Chromoly Zeros (I like the idea of double sided entry and adjustable float), but I have read too many mixed reviews to just go ahead and buy them. I am asking for your experience with Speedplay Zeros (If you have one), and your recommendation on pedals. I am willing to spend around 125 max.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Can you get Speedplay road pedals for $125? 

I use Speedplay Frogs on all my bikes, mountain and road- very simple, lots of float, no centering springs to pull on your knees. You do have to use SPD shoes (2 hole mounting) with them, but as many makers make both a road and 'mountain' version of their pedals, you should be able to get shoes as cool and as expensive as you like.


----------



## M-theory

Go to a large reputable bike shop on a weekday when they are not busy and explain your situation. They can put you on a trainer bike in the store and have you try out various pedals and shoes. 

I think you'll find that road pedals, such as shimano ultegra, offer a far more solid and stable platform than the smaller mtb style two-sided pedals. Yes, mtb pedals are easier to get out of...but if you get too used to them, you may never want to switch to road pedals. 

There's a learning curve to every type of pedal...so why waste time on mtb pedal when you can just start with a road pedal. Save time and money in the long run since the shoes will be incompatible. 

Also, too much float is no good. You want to feel firmly attached to the pedal if you get up out of the saddle, etc. Too much float and you feet will move around as if on ice.

Shimanos are good becuase they have plastic parts on the cleat that protect it when you walk on them. 

Whatever you purchase, practice in the house for awhile before going out.


----------



## California L33

M-theory said:


> Go to a large reputable bike shop on a weekday when they are not busy and explain your situation. They can put you on a trainer bike in the store and have you try out various pedals and shoes.
> 
> I think you'll find that road pedals, such as shimano ultegra, offer a far more solid and stable platform than the smaller mtb style two-sided pedals. Yes, mtb pedals are easier to get out of...but if you get too used to them, you may never want to switch to road pedals.
> 
> There's a learning curve to every type of pedal...so why waste time on mtb pedal when you can just start with a road pedal. Save time and money in the long run since the shoes will be incompatible.
> 
> Also, too much float is no good. You want to feel firmly attached to the pedal if you get up out of the saddle, etc. Too much float and you feet will move around as if on ice.
> 
> Shimanos are good becuase they have plastic parts on the cleat that protect it when you walk on them.
> 
> Whatever you purchase, practice in the house for awhile before going out.


I can't argue with the idea of trying before buying, but I think the idea that road bike pedals are 'more stable' than mountain bike pedals is a bit misleading. The Frogs have a relatively small contact area, but it doesn't make much difference if the shoe souls are stiff enough. I also don't think you can have too much float. Your feet move for a reason. You don't want the pedals 'deciding' that your knees should move in a certain way and forcing them to do it. I still feel the pain just thinking about it from a set of badly adjusted clipless pedals that simply stopped my knees from moving naturally. I got about a mile before I had to stop. Shudder.


----------



## PJ352

California L33 said:


> I can't argue with the idea of trying before buying, but I think the idea that road bike pedals are 'more stable' than mountain bike pedals is a bit misleading. The Frogs have a relatively small contact area, but it doesn't make much difference if the shoe souls are stiff enough. I also don't think you can have too much float. Your feet move for a reason. You don't want the pedals 'deciding' that your knees should move in a certain way and forcing them to do it. I still feel the pain just thinking about it from a set of badly adjusted clipless pedals that simply stopped my knees from moving naturally. I got about a mile before I had to stop. Shudder.


Two good points here, IMO. The stiffness of the sole is a key element in determining the efficiency of the pedal system. 

Also, as many riders with (past/ current) knee problems can attest, float is a definite plus for a number of reasons - one being some 'play' to accomodate an individuals pedal stroke. The 6 degrees my Ultegra's offer is adaquate, but if it weren't I'd go with another system. And additional float doesn't mean you'll actually use it. If you're knees require 10 degrees and the float allows for 12, you'll still only use 10. It's dictated by an individuals pedal stroke, so no conscious effort is required.


----------



## Nick09

California L33 said:


> Can you get Speedplay road pedals for $125?


http://bikeusa.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=9482

They're only the Chromoly ones, but I'm really not concerned that much about weight.




I'm also thinking about these.

http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A6015


----------



## California L33

Nick09 said:


> http://bikeusa.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=9482
> 
> They're only the Chromoly ones, but I'm really not concerned that much about weight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also thinking about these.
> 
> http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A6015


I have no experience with the Zeros (or Keos), but I know Speedplay makes a good pedal. (I have seen some criticism of their road pedals claiming they're difficult to set up, but that 'no centering spring float' common to all Speedplays is great).

Regardless of what you choose, though, get some teflon tape to install them. Grease alone isn't enough to ensure you can get them off easily.


----------



## Guest

I hear that BMX pedals are best if ur not using cleats or toe clips


----------



## Nick09

What is the difference between all of the Time RXS pedals? I see RXS First, RXS EDGE, RXS RXL, RXS Road, and I believe a few more.


----------



## fast ferd

The idea of a larger pedal providing more stability is complete bunk. One just needs stiff soled shoes. I cannot tell the difference riding my Dura Ace old spd's (on my commuter) or newer Dura Ace pedals (on my top bikes). Same performance. No "hot spots" on my feet or other such nonsense. The old spd's are a little bit better for walking around in.

I will confess, however, that the wider platform comes in handy when you sort of tool around in flip flops.

Wondering if Speedplay cleated shoes are comfortable to walk around in. Anybody?


----------



## elcameron

fast ferd said:


> Wondering if Speedplay cleated shoes are comfortable to walk around in. Anybody?


Tough to walk in, and you must not get dirt in them or you cannot click back in the road type. You have to give them a little rinse first. I would suggest against the speedplay for road use. I haven't used frogs.


----------



## nor_cal_rider

I love my Shimano's - plenty of platform to mash on when needed, and still relatively light. Plus, I have had grass/dirt caked on the cleats from walking around at a rest stop and still clipped in without any problems. Heck - I completed a ride this past weekend and upon taking my shoes off, realized the yellow plastic "wear surface" was almost completely gone/thrashed, yet the pedals/shoes still seemed to be working as a unit and I didn't come out of the clips when I stood for the last climb.

YMMV


----------



## Nick09

M-theory said:


> Go to a large reputable bike shop on a weekday when they are not busy and explain your situation. They can put you on a trainer bike in the store and have you try out various pedals and shoes.



The problem here is the guy at my LBS is not so interested with helping people like me. (new rider, not regular customer) It always seems like he is trying to take me for all I am worth, and doesn't help to very long before he wonders off to help someone else. I was posting to try and find out as much info as possible (see my earlier post about RXS pedals) so that I wouldn't have to ask such dumb questions when I get to the store. Also, how do you go about trying out pedals at the LBS with the intention of buying online if they are cheaper that way? Seems like they wouldn't like it too much. My guy might not even let me test ride.


----------



## PJ352

Nick09 said:


> The problem here is the guy at my LBS is not so interested with helping people like me. (new rider, not regular customer) It always seems like he is trying to take me for all I am worth, and doesn't help to very long before he wonders off to help someone else. I was posting to try and find out as much info as possible (see my earlier post about RXS pedals) so that I wouldn't have to ask such dumb questions when I get to the store. Also, how do you go about trying out pedals at the LBS with the intention of buying online if they are cheaper that way? Seems like they wouldn't like it too much. My guy might not even let me test ride.


That doesn't sound like one of the better bike shops. Why not try another? But in all honesty, basically using a LBS and its services to educate yourself then purchase online isn't playing fair, IMHO. If they're willing to take the time to answer questions, demostrate them and have you try them out, haven't they earned your business?


----------



## hellatall

I have to agree on the Shimanos... and I ride just the entry level SPD-SL's with a nice pair of Specialized road shoes, and though they are my first set of clipless pedals, I feel like I should stick with Shimano when I upgrade. No knee issues, plenty of float if you want it, and a three point cleat that feels like you have total control. Even during single-leg drills on narrow country roads, I'm never worried that I'm going to pop out unexpectedly or lose control of the bike.


----------



## PlatyPius

I detest Shimano in general, but I swear by their SPD-SL pedals.

Contrary to some opinions above, you CAN feel the difference between a large cleat and a smaller cleat. Maybe if you weigh less than 200 you can't, but when you're just under 300 you definitely can. They just don't make shoe soles THAT stiff.

I'm selling my Keo Carbons because they feel too loose and "icy" to me. Speedplays lasted 2 days on my bike and then went away for half of what I paid for them. They sucked. They really, really sucked.

I've had my many sets of Ultegra SL SPD-SLs for a couple of years now and have just had to replace the cleats once. They're not bad to walk in, and they are super-easy to get in and out with.


----------



## Yoyodene

I echo the try before you buy comments above. There are a ton of great pedals out there. 

Don't get a pedal based on the ease of entry/exit. Every pedal has a learning curve but within a week it will be second nature no matter what your using. Find the pedal that works for your knees/ankles/feet. I'm personally a big Speedplay fan, my knees love the non-centering float of the x series. Only you can discover what works for you.

That being said, if you do go for the Speedplays get a set of "coffee shop covers". These will keep crap out of the cleat and If you take good care of the cleats they last a long time. Another cool thing they just came out with is the "platformer", it's a plastic clamshell that locks onto the pedal and turns it into a regular platform pedal. Great for when you don't want to mess with your cycling shoes/run a quick errand/cruise down to registration...


----------



## uberalles

i'm completely new to the clipless scene, but i got the shimano's (w/ nike road shoes). i will say they were super easy to use and i have zero issues clipping in or out. 
i read all the storys on here about knee pain, unable to clip out and falling, foot pain....ect ect. it made me hesitant when i left my house on my first ride with them. i tried to plan my ride so i didn't have to stop at intersections or traffic of any sorts. 10 mins out and i was practicing the clip in and clip out with no problems. didn't even have to take my eyes off the road. 

I'm a big guy and i like the confidence they give when i mash the pedals to accelerate or climb. 

i have nothing to realy compare it to, but that's my opinion. perfect for a beginner or seasoned guy (i guess)


----------



## easyridernyc

shim 50..good to go


----------



## jmlapoint

Speedplay X2


----------



## Speedbump

As long as we're discussing pedals, I also have a few questions. I'm looking for a road bike pedal whose cleats wear well when walking on pavement.

I commute to work and have to walk a ways from the bike rack to the building. It's not that far, but when you do it twice a day, it adds up. I currently have Times, I like them and the cleats are OK to walk in but they are made of plastic and wear down quickly. Did I mention that the cleats run about $40?

Can someone recommend some good road pedals whose cleats won't wear out from frequent walks on pavement?


----------



## jmlapoint

Speedbump said:


> As long as we're discussing pedals, I also have a few questions. I'm looking for a road bike pedal whose cleats wear well when walking on pavement.
> 
> I commute to work and have to walk a ways from the bike rack to the building. It's not that far, but when you do it twice a day, it adds up. I currently have Times, I like them and the cleats are OK to walk in but they are made of plastic and wear down quickly. Did I mention that the cleats run about $40?
> 
> Can someone recommend some good road pedals whose cleats won't wear out from frequent walks on pavement?


Most Road Shoes and Cleats are not very good for pavement walking.
I would suggest Shimano SPD Pedals and Comfortable MTB Shoe with recessed SPD Cleat. These work fine on a road bike and the recessed Cleat doesn't get too damaged with walking.
You could always carry a pair of Flip-Flops or Tennis Shoes in your Pack and change for walking.


----------



## California L33

Speedbump said:


> As long as we're discussing pedals, I also have a few questions. I'm looking for a road bike pedal whose cleats wear well when walking on pavement.
> 
> I commute to work and have to walk a ways from the bike rack to the building. It's not that far, but when you do it twice a day, it adds up. I currently have Times, I like them and the cleats are OK to walk in but they are made of plastic and wear down quickly. Did I mention that the cleats run about $40?
> 
> Can someone recommend some good road pedals whose cleats won't wear out from frequent walks on pavement?


Yup, mountain pedals are best your application. The shoes are designed so the cleats don't touch the ground. I'd suggest Speedplay Frogs. I never did much like SPDs, though they're definitely the most economical.


----------



## -Matt82-

PJ352 said:


> Ok, speaking of sides, there's another one to tell.
> That said, if you've decided to go with road shoes, IMO/E the Shimano Ultegra/ 105 pedals are among the best. They're very well designed/ refined, offer 6 degrees of float with the standard cleats (enough for most riders) and have a larger than average and stable platform with adjustable release.



I bought Ultegras for my first clipless pedals and I like them. The heavier side is at the back/bottom so that the part the front of your cleat clips into is usually pointing up. So to clip in you just kind of put your foot there and then push forward and then down. Very easy to clip into because of the way they are weighted. I was originally looking at speedplays because of the double sided entry, but now that I have ridden on Shimano's I imagine the double sided would be harder to use.


----------



## newmexrb1

IC33:
'm gonna pop for the frogs--I need a lot of float--the last clipless system was hell on my knees. Looking at the Keen Springwater's http://www.rei.com/product/782477 Not looking for anything super light or stiff, just something comforatable and walkable in. Anyone have any experience with these?


----------



## California L33

newmexrb1 said:


> IC33:
> 'm gonna pop for the frogs--I need a lot of float--the last clipless system was hell on my knees. Looking at the Keen Springwater's http://www.rei.com/product/782477 Not looking for anything super light or stiff, just something comforatable and walkable in. Anyone have any experience with these?


I've never heard of these. Two things to check-

REI's return policy in case you hate them

Speedplay's page for any compatibility issues. (Because of the massive float, some very large toe cycling shoes don't work with them- you have to turn your foot so far to clip out that the shoe's toe interferes with the crank and won't release. Frogs seem to work with just about any SPD two hole cleat mount, rounded toe cycling shoe so I doubt it will be a problem. This is usually only a problem with insulated winter cycling boots, but check just to be sure.)


----------



## yourideit

after getting through the learning curve (one ride), i love my speedplay x2's. 

they are not that hard to set up.
i don't walk around in the dirt so i'm not worried about not being able to clip back in. that bike is meant for riding, not for hanging out in coffee shops. just squirt some dry lube at em once in awhile
no spring tension, so my knees are happy. 
two sided enty.
simple design. fewer things to break, they look slick.
pretty light even for stainless steel.

i use spd on my mtb and crossthing. platforms on my townie. i walk more while with those bikes and the spd is good for that.

i've heard good things from a guy who runs crank bros on all his bikes.


----------



## newmexrb1

California L33,
Thanks. I have other Keens (casual) and find em to be a super comfortable shoe--may not mean a thing. Goot tip re REI.


----------



## codyelliott12

I'm working on making the switch from the mountain bike world over to road bikes and I had been using Crankbros eggbeaters with Specialized mountain bike shoes. I'm trying to figure out a pedal setup that I could could use with the shoes I've got right now to reduce my cost on getting a the road bike. Any suggestions?


----------



## California L33

codyelliott12 said:


> I'm working on making the switch from the mountain bike world over to road bikes and I had been using Crankbros eggbeaters with Specialized mountain bike shoes. I'm trying to figure out a pedal setup that I could could use with the shoes I've got right now to reduce my cost on getting a the road bike. Any suggestions?


Yup, have made it many times, probably in this thread-

Speedplay Frogs. Lot's of float, no spring driven re-centering of the knee, bullet proof, so simple it's amazing nobody thought of it before, great pedal, user serviceable, works very well on the road and the mountain.


----------



## Kleh

I love my Speedplay Light Action. I was warned over and over by people who didn't like too much float, but I think for a rider that has no experience with clipless pedals, free float doesn't feel odd at all. If you've been using a 0-float pedal, Speedplays might be difficult to get used to, but as a new rider, I wouldn't recommend anything but.


----------



## Zachariah

I say + another one for the Shimano SPD-SL(Ultegra 6620, Dura Ace7810) pedals. Nothing but direct power transfer with these.


----------



## AJL

SpeedPlay is the way to go if you have knee problems. Otherwise, most riders I know use Shimano SPD-SLs or Look Keos.

If you go with SpeedPlays and are under 80kgs, you may want to go with the light action model. Zeros take a while to break-in and are hard to clip into for lighter riders. SpeedPlays are, unfortunately, higher maintenance pedals than the other two I mentioned.


----------



## Hank Stamper

Being kind of new myself I have no standard of comparision but I have Shimano 105's and think they are great.

Like you I figured two sided would be the way to go but it's a total non issue getting into these. I read some some reviews from people having trouble getting out of them but for the life of me can't figure how that could be a problem. I'm not exactly Fred Astaire and I literally had no learning curve with them.
Others are lighter.....but ease of use I can't imageing any being better than equal to these.


----------



## gclark

i got candy c's on all of my bikes,easy in easy out.works great with either road ot mtb shoes. great quallity and inexpensive....for a beginner these are a great choice,lots of other thing to worry about!


----------



## ktuck

2009 Look Keo Classics are available for about $70. Seems to be a pretty good performance/weight/price combination. I was going to try Speedplays because everybody I ride with has them, but they look a little fussier mechanically. The price difference made the decision for me.


----------



## electech

I wish my dang shoes would hurry up and get here. They are on backorder from Shimano, the R086 road shoe. I have my Look Keo Classics sitting in the box waiting to go on.


----------



## PJ352

AJL said:


> SpeedPlay is the way to go if you have knee problems. Otherwise, most riders I know use Shimano SPD-SLs or Look Keos.


Not necessarily. I've had knee problems dating back to the 80's and have used the SPD-SL's w/ float without problems for years. 6 degrees is sufficient float for most riders.


----------



## clipz

im a newb as well and asked the same question as you and got a lot of different responses. I went with look sprints. its personal preference really. all pedals are a little crazy in the beginning. at first i found engaging the pedal difficult but got used to it after about a week. sometimes being new i still have trouble. getting out of the pedal i never once had a problem with. look pedals offer a "snapping" sound when your clicked in which gives you a sence of security, for m it does anyways. they also make a noise when you unclip. they are one sided, but what i do is hit them quickly with my foot to flip one pedal and im in. the tension is great, i like my pedals really tight i hate my foot being loose. once again personal preference. cleats come in different floats. 

DOWNSIDE. sometimes if im not paying attention and dont engage my pedal properly my foot will slide on the pedal and ill smash my "goodies" on my bike it hurts and sucks alot! other than that wicked awesome pedal!


----------



## djh01

I picked up a pair of KEO Sprint's for $84 yesterday. Can't beat that value.


----------



## AJL

PJ352 said:


> Not necessarily. I've had knee problems dating back to the 80's and have used the SPD-SL's w/ float without problems for years. 6 degrees is sufficient float for most riders.


Well I think the *centering *float is the problem. If Look, for example, made their red cleats with out any centering force - they could probably take market share from SpeedPlay. Personally, I'd rather walk around in Keo cleats any day.


----------



## elcameron

I am curious if anyone who really rides a lot uses speedplay? Off topic - sorry.


----------



## clipz

i was thinking about speedplays they have a really good cleat, but went with looks instead


----------



## electech

My Shimano road shoes finally came in so today, I took the bike in today and had them installed. Then, we put the bike on the trainer there in the shop and after a minor adjustment to the right cleat, I think I am going to really like the Look Keo's. Snapping in and out of these cleats seemed super easy.


----------



## gmbaker

elcameron said:


> I am curious if anyone who really rides a lot uses speedplay? Off topic - sorry.


Well here is my opinion to add to the discussion vs. Just saying one pedal or another with no explanation as to why.

Not sure of what you definition is of riding a lot but I am currently riding 150 miles per week in preparation for my century in a few weeks, I am sure others ride a lot more and some less.

I recently switched from my ancient Nike SPD shoes and generic SPD bike pedals and SPD cleats ( ONE SIDED ) to a pair of SIDI genesis 5 pro carbon shoes and Speedplay chromoly Zeros. I am 208lbs so getting the pedal to engage clearly isn’t an issue.

The set up of the cleats was not super complicated, but it does take a bit more time than other cleats that I used. What I found was the instructions that came with the shoes and the pedals for cleat set up differed a bit but this was quickly resolved by a call to Speedplay who were quite helpful. 

There is definitely a fair amount of float available to dial in, I did a 20 mile ride with the cleat adjusted in a neutral position and the float factory set which was a bit too much for my liking, this also prevented me from clipping out as easily as I would have liked. For the next ride, I dialed the float back to only a few degrees and preferred this setting much better. 

In situations where you want to just rest one foot on the pedal was a bit of a change since the lolly pop shape of the pedal being is much smaller. This isn’t a big deal but takes a few times to get used to in my opinion. 

Clipping and out due to the double sidedness of the pedal seems nice but I haven’t seen much of an issue either way vs. my other one sided pedals. I did notice lubing the pedal as suggested by Speedplay has helped clipping in and out and they also seem to be breaking in. 

The cleats definitely do collect sand/dirt/gunk if you walk around in it but a quick tap fixed that and I was on my way. 

I immediately noticed a more powerful pedal stroke perhaps due to the lack of flex in the shoe vs. the old ones or maybe I was just excited to have new stuff. One other thing is my arches do hurt a bit but that’s most likely due to the stiffer shoe.


----------



## Zachariah

gmbaker said:


> ... or maybe I was just excited to have new stuff.


Spot-on!


----------



## JulesYK

*Shimano and Speedplay Light Action*

I've used Shimano pedals exclusively for my road bikes, and my wife use Speedplay light actions. If you are new to clipless pedals, or do not weigh much, I'd steer away from the other Speedplay models. My wife was (mistakenly) recommended the Zero's at first, and she couldn't clip in because she was too light. I actually had a pretty hard time doing it, and I'm not light by cyclist standards. Light Actions are another story, and she has been very happy with them. She doesn't baby them, but they've been very reliable. I've really like Shimano pedals (Dura-Ace 7810) but went with them primarily because I use Shimano shoes and use Shimano components generally. They are a bit stiff clipping in above the lightest tension, but I've never clipped out accidentally (but do not race). I generally set the cleat so that I cannot "float" into the chainstays or crankarms with my heels, and that has worked well for me. Cleats have been very durable. I like the pedals simplicity generally.

I think it would be a mistake to plan to begin with "starter" pedals and then work your way up. Short of going with SPD mountain pedals (stomp and go), you'll have to get used to clipping into road pedals, but it's like learning to ride a bike. Perhaps a bit daunting at first, but second nature very quickly.


----------



## electech

Whichever pedal you go with, spend time making sure your cleats are adjusted correctly. They may or may not be exactly by the book either. My right foot is going to need a little "toe out" compared to my left to feel correct but only a ride can tell you that. Pay attention if you have any discomfort or knee pain. Did a short ride yesterday for the first time in the Keo pedals and except for a minor right cleat adjustment, they were great.


----------



## pigpen

Shimano makes a fine pedal.


----------



## masterken911

i like shimano's dura ace since it's good for lance it's probably good for me. i like what pros use.


----------



## singlespeedbuss

Gottem on my road bike and no problems. LBS recommended them and some of the employees there use them and that was good enough recommendation. The massive float is not a problem and the mount on the shoe is basically the pedal platform. I like them


----------



## ktuck

Had an interesting discussion yesterday. I asked a friend about pedals for my new bike and whether I should return my bargain Keo classics (my first clipless pedals were Look Delta's, now about nine years old) and invest in Speedplays. All of the serious riders I know around here seem to be on Speedplays. (But, I never remember to get a close look at what the full-time-really-serious riders are on.)

Anyway, my friend told me that his daughter (a national champion) was told early in her career that play equals power loss. Then, the conversation turned to whether play was really more or less forgiving on the knees. It sounds like the ability to rotate would put less strain on things, but it also means that the leg has to keep itself centered with no help from the pedal.

Any thoughts? (I'm probably going to stick with the Keo's just because I'm used to getting in and out of the Looks.)


----------



## PJ352

ktuck said:


> Had an interesting discussion yesterday. I asked a friend about pedals for my new bike and whether I should return my bargain Keo classics (my first clipless pedals were Look Delta's, now about nine years old) and invest in Speedplays. All of the serious riders I know around here seem to be on Speedplays. (But, I never remember to get a close look at what the full-time-really-serious riders are on.)
> 
> Anyway, my friend told me that his daughter (a national champion) was told early in her career that play equals power loss. Then, the conversation turned to whether play was really more or less forgiving on the knees. It sounds like the ability to rotate would put less strain on things, but it also means that the leg has to keep itself centered with no help from the pedal.
> 
> Any thoughts? (I'm probably going to stick with the Keo's just because I'm used to getting in and out of the Looks.)


Well, if we're hearing it from you and you heard it from a friend and he heard it from his daughter (a national champion) and she heard it from someone years ago, it must be true!! 

All kidding aside, no I don't buy into any of it. First off, the only thing float does is allows the knee to position itself where it naturally wants to be. Additionally, cleats w/ float offer some forgiveness in setup. Conversely, fixed cleats have no forgiveness and more or less dictate where the knee is positioned, thus causing pain in some individuals. I've experienced this, so I know it can occur. Also, pedaling styles vary from cyclist to cyclist, and float accomodates those variations, fixed does not. But I will say that there are instances where a cyclist/ fitter (through luck or some knowledge/ experience) positions a fixed cleat in a near ideal position for a given rider. Unfortunately, IME most people aren't that good at cleat positioning.

As far as potential power loss (with float), I have no studies to prove my point (and I'm thinking you're in the same boat ), but I don't see it as likely. Power loss comes from flex or looseness between pedal and shoe, and that would be prominent only in the up/ downstroke, not across/ sideways - and that's the only movement float allows - slight left/ right motion. My 2 cents.


----------



## electech

If you are wanting more float than the 4 1/2 degrees of the standard cleat, they make one with 9 degrees I believe (red color) and they also make a black one with no float.


----------



## PJ352

electech said:


> If you are wanting more float than the 4 1/2 degrees of the standard cleat, they make one with 9 degrees I believe (red color) and they also make a black one with no float.


If you're referring to the Shimano SPD-SL's, the SH-11's (standard yellow) allow 6 degree of float. The SH-10's (reds) are fixed. There are no other options.
http://www.trisports.com/shsprecl.html


----------



## nealric

probikekit.com often has great deals on Keos. I got carbons for $120 or so a few months ago. 

Having switched from MTB style cleats to the larger platform Keos, I feel there is a night and day difference in terms of how solidly I feel connected to the bike.


----------



## ktuck

PJ352 said:


> Well, if we're hearing it from you and you heard it from a friend and he heard it from his daughter (a national champion) and she heard it from someone years ago, it must be true!!


 Ok, I confess, I actually read it on a poster at a Tea Party rally - but that makes it even truer.

Nonetheless, we are all pretty quick to buy into the "common wisdom" until a new common wisdom comes along. It still makes sense to me that a fixed cleat (set up in exactly the right position) might be the most powerful and knee-friendly configuration.

But, I'm going along with the herd and sticking with some lateral play in my pedals - someone else can experiment with their knees.

PJ352 - My current cleat position feels ok, but I've never known differently. When I change out my pedals, should I re-evaluate the setup? If so, any tips? I've glanced at some of the articles on cleat positioning and there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice.


----------



## electech

PJ352 said:


> If you're referring to the Shimano SPD-SL's, the SH-11's (standard yellow) allow 6 degree of float. The SH-10's (reds) are fixed. There are no other options.
> http://www.trisports.com/shsprecl.html


I was actually referring to the Look Keo's when talking about the cleats. The question brought up the SPD's but he said he still had the Look Keo's. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## PJ352

ktuck said:


> Ok, I confess, I actually read it on a poster at a Tea Party rally - but that makes it even truer.
> 
> Nonetheless, *we are all pretty quick to buy into the "common wisdom" until a new common wisdom comes along*. It still makes sense to me that a fixed cleat (set up in exactly the right position) might be the most powerful and knee-friendly configuration.
> 
> But, I'm going along with the herd and sticking with some lateral play in my pedals - someone else can experiment with their knees.
> 
> PJ352 - My current cleat position feels ok, but I've never known differently. When I change out my pedals, should I re-evaluate the setup? If so, any tips? I've glanced at some of the articles on cleat positioning and there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice.


IMO you're absolutely right about 'common wisdom'. I've tried hard to avoid the 'fad philosophies' through the years, focusing on what works (for me, at least). I'm not saying it's not worth trying something every now and again, but it should be thought out first, with a way to revert back if need be.

To answer your question, if you're experiencing no pain or discomfort, I'd leave well enough alone in regards to cleat placement. Fit does evolve due to age, fitness level, etc., so changes may be in order at some point in the future, but generally speaking, I don't subscribe to tweaking fit 'just to see'. IMO, pain free = a _good_ fit. 

OTOH, if the curiosity is just killing you to try fixed cleats for example, what you can do is trace out the bottoms of where your cleats are positioned and, if possible, take a picture of the current position, then install the fixed cleats following your old position. It might take a couple of trys to get the setup right, but at least you'll start out close. And worse comes to worse, you have a baseline to revert back to with your current setup.

As far as tips, you've probably already done this, but the standard setup is ball of foot over pedal spindle and cleat positioned so that the foot is in a neutral position (not toed in/ out). It's not gospel, but it is a good starting point.

Also, when changing over, be aware of any change to stack height from the old setup to new. If they differ, an adjustment to saddle height will be required.


----------



## Tommy Walker

Nick09 said:


> The problem here is the guy at my LBS is not so interested with helping people like me. (new rider, not regular customer) It always seems like he is trying to take me for all I am worth, and doesn't help to very long before he wonders off to help someone else. I was posting to try and find out as much info as possible (see my earlier post about RXS pedals) so that I wouldn't have to ask such dumb questions when I get to the store. Also, how do you go about trying out pedals at the LBS with the intention of buying online if they are cheaper that way? Seems like they wouldn't like it too much. My guy might not even let me test ride.


Find a new LBS. My store would actually let me take out Wheels and if I didn't like them I can return them. Test pedals on a trainer before you decide; there is a lot of learning curve.


----------



## PlatyPius

Tommy Walker said:


> Find a new LBS. My store would actually let me take out Wheels and if I didn't like them I can return them. Test pedals on a trainer before you decide; there is a lot of learning curve.


Who decided that this was proper?

Can I go to a Ford dealership and ask them to install a blower and headers on my Mustang so I can "test drive" them? Maybe I'll buy them, maybe I won't. When I'm done testing them, and I don't buy them, they're now left with used parts.

So a customer comes in and wants to try out pedals. Great. So I (usually) will have to get a pair of new shoes in the customer's size, grab some pedals and cleats, install the cleats on the shoes (marking up the sole in the process), install the pedals on their bike, put their bike on the trainer, and then give them a lesson in how to use clipless pedals. Time invested: 45 minutes. Merchandise rendered "used": $200.00 worth. Profit from selling shoes and pedals: $75.00 (minus the 45 minutes at $40/hour). Is it really worth it for a small shop that can't have "test" pedals laying around? Not really.


----------



## AJL

Bought my shoes and pedals at my LBS. I did try out a pair of Sidi, which just weren't comfortable for me on the bike, before I bought a pair of Nike. So I guess I rendered them 'used' (they were in excellent condition, I think it would be fine if they sold them as new, well, after disinfecting them just in case).

I guess in my case since I installed the pedals and cleats myself, the only time used up by the salesperson was finding the right shoe size in the back room. It must be a pain for a small shop though, especially when dealing with customers with no mechanical inclination at all. I guess that's why some shops are starting to charge 'demo' fees on some equipment. For larger shops, the $400+ I spent over a couple of days was probably worth it.


----------



## TallCoolOne

Has anyone used the speedplay zero platformers? I am considering purchasing a set but I have read elsewhere that they are not very durable.


----------



## singlespeedbuss

I have had mine for 6months and have had zero problems. very good setup so far. I have bad knees so the extra float really works for me.


----------



## SystemShock

Nick09 said:


> What is the difference between all of the Time RXS pedals? I see RXS First, RXS EDGE, RXS RXL, RXS Road, and I believe a few more.


Mostly just weight.

Almost doesn't matter anymore... they've been superseded by the new Time iClic line-up of pedals, which is basically a lot like the RXS line but with very easy entry (the RXS's one real weakness).

I'm looking forward to buying a set soon.
.


----------



## MarvinK

I really hate Crank Brothers--which is too bad, because they are cheap and multi-sided. I tried to get used to them on my CX bike, but ended up back on Time ATACs because they had a much easier and more positive entry and release. Less maintenance required, too.

As far as road pedals, Speedplay or Keos are the two I recommend--although I am also interested in trying out the iClic for my youngest kid since the entry is supposed to be ridiculously easy. I ride Keos.


----------



## Big Papa

Dura-ace has some quality pedals, IMO.


----------



## LostViking

Keo Sprints with 4 degrees of float work fine for me.
I keep the tension at minimum so have no problem getting out.
Occassional misses when trying to click-in as I'm "motoring" up - say from a stop-light.
I have knee issues, but had those before the Keos, so can't blame them for that - hasn't gotten worse.
Just like the never ending discussion about saddles - the best is what feels best for you.
You will probably have to experiment a little bit - but if you do that at your LBS - at least give them your business.


----------



## MarvinK

Tommy Walker said:


> Find a new LBS. My store would actually let me take out Wheels and if I didn't like them I can return them. Test pedals on a trainer before you decide; there is a lot of learning curve.


If you read the whole post, it doesn't actually sound like he has much loyalty to any local bike shop. He said he was buying online. I think he's doing the right thing by researching online if he wants to buy online. I think it would be unfair to ask a local bike shop to let you install a bunch of pedals and mount a bunch of cleats with absolutely intention of buying from them.

Speedplay has a lot of price fixing, though... so you're likely not getting a LOT better price online. Time and Look pedals are way cheaper in Europe, so there's no competing there.. even with US online shops.


----------



## AJL

MarvinK said:


> Speedplay has a lot of price fixing, though... so you're likely not getting a LOT better price online. Time and Look pedals are way cheaper in Europe, so there's no competing there.. even with US online shops.


True dat! I must say Speedplay has excellent customer support and durability. Though, if I were buying new pedals I'd try out the Keo2s. Seems to me that most riders I've run across very rarely have problems clipping in or out with Keos, plus one can get the cleats w/9 degrees of float (not the 15 I get with my Speedplays, but I've figured out that 15 degrees is more than I need anyway).


----------



## Bocephus Jones II

fast ferd said:


> The idea of a larger pedal providing more stability is complete bunk. One just needs stiff soled shoes. I cannot tell the difference riding my Dura Ace old spd's (on my commuter) or newer Dura Ace pedals (on my top bikes). Same performance. No "hot spots" on my feet or other such nonsense. The old spd's are a little bit better for walking around in.
> 
> I will confess, however, that the wider platform comes in handy when you sort of tool around in flip flops.
> 
> Wondering if Speedplay cleated shoes are comfortable to walk around in. Anybody?


They are terrible to walk in and the coffee shop covers you can buy to protect the cleats when walking fall off easily. I like my Campy pedals...kind of a Look-like pedal though.


----------



## Hula Hoop

Shimano 520 is a dual sided mountain pedal for around $45. Very small cleat,
tough stainless construction, easy to get in and out of, nice transition pedal.
It's what i would recommend for someone just getting into clipless.


----------



## AJL

Bocephus Jones II said:


> They are terrible to walk in and the coffee shop covers you can buy to protect the cleats when walking fall off easily. I like my Campy pedals...kind of a Look-like pedal though.


Definitely! I took a short flight down my basement stairs because one of the covers fell off


----------



## MarvinK

If you are brand new to clipless pedals, I'd have a hard time recommending Speedplay Zeros... especially if you're a lightweight. They don't have any tension adjustment and they are VERY hard to get into until you wear the cleat in. New riders should consider the light action Speedplays instead... especially if they're light. Otherwise, go with pedals that have adjustable tension.

Speedplay isn't the only brand that lacks tension adjustment... others like Crank Brothers also are missing it.


----------



## kykr13

Crank Bros are basically an MTB system that use MTB shoes. Easy to get in and out of and a lot of float. With MTB shoes, it's (relatively) easy to walk in them. I have Candys on one bike and they work great. 

My SPD-SL setup on the other bike feels more "solid" (maybe not the right word, more of a positive "click" in and out) but I've never come out of Crank Bros by accident, and never had a problem getting out when I want.


----------

