# Powertap hidden costs



## muscleendurance (Jan 11, 2009)

so what are the hidden costs for the powertap system, or rather the parts that it replaces in the bike (hub/freehub body) hubs wear out, and bearings especially and freehub bodies too.
so when this stuff wears out is your powertap 'worn' out too, or is all that stuff replaceable
and if so is it a whole lot more expensive than a 'normal' freehub body and bearings and so on?

A major drawback for me with the Ergomo for example, was I reckoned that once your BB was shot, so was your days of power measuring with it! - a) was that the case (not important) and b) is there similar traps with the PT (more important!) . And if so what about earlier generation 2007 versions or earlier.

Whats the lifespan of a powertap then?
If you've had a powertap for 2 or more years (or less is ok too) let me know what have you had to replace that was related to the system, and if you could tell me how long you've had it for too that would be great, thanks.

Its just looking at SIR M's if you bought one a few years ago, your out of luck, or certainly options anyway, as it was octalink, wheras now they're external BB's so unless you get an octalink BB your screwed for the future! This is another advantage the Polar and ibike have over the DFPM they dont become obsolete when tech moves on in years to come  -now dont let that soundbyte divert things


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## moab63 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Mine is little over two years old and*

no parts have been replaced at all with the excepation of the batteries. I had an issue with the unit and it was cover under warraNTY. Oh yes is over 15k miles and the bearings feel find. I did break the head unit dropped it in the livingroom tile floor. Everything else is find and bought the head unit with all kinds of extra parts locally (lightly) used for 195.00.

I might buy another one if I can find a used at a good price. I have the 2.4sl wireless


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## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

I have a wired version - accessories are over-priced: the wired harness is crazy expensive (like $70), got one for another bike; the usb cradle wiring died (cost $50); I dropped the head unit and cracked the display (replacement cost is $200 - found a lightly used one on ebay for less); the hub itself has been flawless - battery changes only, bearings still smooth after lots of miles.


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## Undecided (Apr 2, 2007)

I've had a first-generation wireless PowerTap for about 2 years/25,000 kilometers. Other than replacing the batteries and buying some liquid gasket to improve its wet-weather endurance, I haven't spent anything on maintenance for it.

I have started to wonder when I'm supposed to replace the bearings.


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## nfosterma (Jan 24, 2007)

*I can't believe you said that our loud...*



I have started to wonder when I'm supposed to replace the bearings.[/QUOTE said:


> Now that you have said it, you know its only going to me a matter of time now


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## spin150 (May 24, 2005)

Used mine for 2.5 years without problems. Be careful when replacing batteries to keep it sealed. Sometimes it stops working in the rain - probably when the contacts on the head unit get wet.


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## carlosflanders (Nov 23, 2008)

The hub is great and very reliable. The wiring harnesses go out periodically, computer head is fragile and all the accessories are way too much.


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## Alex_Simmons/RST (Jan 12, 2008)

Consider also adding some better software than the free stuff Saris provides.
WKO+ is 100 bucks.

And learning how to use it to full advantage to guide training might be a pretty good investment too.


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## djg21 (Oct 25, 2003)

muscleendurance said:


> so what are the hidden costs for the powertap system, or rather the parts that it replaces in the bike (hub/freehub body) hubs wear out, and bearings especially and freehub bodies too.
> so when this stuff wears out is your powertap 'worn' out too, or is all that stuff replaceable
> and if so is it a whole lot more expensive than a 'normal' freehub body and bearings and so on?
> 
> ...


I've used an SL 2.4 for two seasons. I've sent it back twice. The hub was eating batteries too quickly when I first got it, and my sense was that something was draining them. This season, after having my wheel rebuilt, my hub wouldn't pair with the CPU. The CPU was replaced under warranty (and Saris replaced all moving parts in the hub). 

Aside from the cost of UPS shipping pack to Saris, my only additional expenses were for the purchase of Training Peaks, which is well worth the money, and batteries, which Ireplace a couple of times over the course of a year. I always keep a handful of spare batteries for the hub, CPU and cadence sensor in my travel bag, just in case one fails while I'm travelling and there is no Radio Shack nearby,


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## muscleendurance (Jan 11, 2009)

*ah yes batteries I forgot that one!*

so rechargable batteries go in the actual hub or am I reading that right!  
and if so, are all the different models over the years (say last 3-4 years) using the same batteries and easily replaced? and they are rechargable yes (its just I dont see any replacement ones on saris accessories site )

also the batteries for the headunit same as the hub type or what?.
I do an AWFULL lot of climbing (and so coasting on fast descents too)
and Ive gone through a couple of freehubs on the same set of wheels as a result I think of all the coasting -so also just wanted to find out about replacements, does a normal shimano one do fine, or does it have to be a saris one to lock into the hub design properly?

so many questions 
much appreciating the answers :thumbsup:
in the words of the fonejacker (terry tibs) -"powertap...talk to me.." tell me all the stuff (like so far) that the manuals or their marketing brochures/manuals dont tell me, the stuff which comes with experience when you have had it for a few years or whatever it is.


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## djg21 (Oct 25, 2003)

muscleendurance said:


> so rechargable batteries go in the actual hub or am I reading that right!
> and if so, are all the different models over the years (say last 3-4 years) using the same batteries and easily replaced? and they are rechargable yes (its just I dont see any replacement ones on saris accessories site )
> 
> also the batteries for the headunit same as the hub type or what?.
> ...


Not rechargeable. The hub takes two (2) #357 or EPX76 Silver Oxide type batteries
The CPU and speed/cadence sensors each use one (1) CR2032 battery.

I buy three-packs at RadioShack. I think that they're about $11 per pack. I keep extras in the case that came with my Powertap, and I use the case when I travel to keep all my electronic stuff together. My PT batteries inevitably fail when I am in the middle of nowhere, where I cannot find batteries. The lifespan on the hub batteries supposedly is 400 hrs. I think that might be a bit optimistic. I can guesstimate that I change my batteries after around 250 hrs. 

If you use a trunk rack or hitch rack on your auto to transport your bike, you may need to use a toe-strap to prevent the rear wheel from spinning while you drive. If the wheel with the PT hub starts to spin, it begins to transmit, and the batteries will drain.

When replacing the hub batteries, you do need to be careful with the plastic battery holder -- it can be a little fragile. I broke one, and Saris sent me a replacement at no charge. 

BTW, I have two Powertaps -- a wired PT Pro on the spare bike I ride on my trainer, and an sl 2.4 on my primary road bike, Saris has been really great to deal with when I have needed to service my hubs.


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## Speedi Pig (Apr 18, 2004)

I've had mine a year and a half. I got one of the "bad" cradles right out of the box. Saris replaced it free. My hub started making all kinds of racket; Saris replaced the internals...free. The "mode" button on my head unit stopped working last Friday; I called them that afternoon, got a return authorization, mailed it back Saturday, and they shipped a replacement today...free. Oh yeah, the last two issues were several months past the 1 year warranty.

As for batteries, go here:

http://www.infinitelights.com/

Buy in bulk, free shipping, no sales tax, no trip to the store. Oh, and you'll save 70% to 80% over what you would pay Radio Shack. A PT head unit will burn through batteries pretty quickly versus more basic computers, but it also needs a lot more power.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

I've had my PT SL for 2.5 years. It's needed one set of bearings, which Saris installed last fall when I sent the hub in for them to do the uprade. (the early SLs had a problem with data drops). Saris service is awesome-they did the upgrade, replaced bearings, and even installed a new freehub body, all free.

I'll be buying more Saris stuff.

My costs have been an extra $100 for WKO (although GoldenCheetah is getting better), and some batteries. The head unit batteries have a shorter life than the hub batteries, maybe 3-400 hours vs 5-600 hours. And I have had to get the wheel built four times, but that isn't the hubs fault.


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## millennium (Apr 3, 2002)

Speedi Pig said:


> As for batteries, go here:
> 
> http://www.infinitelights.com/


Thanks for that tip!! Those are sweet prices.


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## mikeyp123 (Mar 9, 2007)

Almost 2 years here. Only issue I've had is that the wireless bracket, for the head unit, has sort of loosened up and doesn't hold the little yellow computer very well. I've had it ejected a number of times.. but to my surprise (after an anxious search), it's held up really well to that kind of abuse. Solution, wrapped some tape around the edge. Have only had to replace the batteries once.. I've been very happy with it.


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## jac44 (Feb 11, 2005)

The Casssette Body has got to be the cheapest Bike Part ever. I don't appreciate having to pry my Dura-Ace cassettes off my wheel to prepare for a Crit (And replaced it twice). I've already purchased a used SRM and going to buy another. The Power Tap is going on E-Bay soon.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

jac44 said:


> The Cassette Body has got to be the cheapest Bike Part ever. I don't appreciate having to pry my Dura-Ace cassettes off my wheel to prepare for a Crit (And replaced it twice). I've already purchased a used SRM and going to buy another. The Power Tap is going on E-Bay soon.


You do know they make a steel cassette body that weighs 1oz - 2oz more and costs less than the aluminum cassette body. It also doesn't get divots like the aluminum one...all you have to do is ask them for that cassette hub instead of the other. I think they run around $30.00 and will likely last the life of the hub.


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## Dopamine (Jun 2, 2009)

jac44 said:


> The Casssette Body has got to be the cheapest Bike Part ever. I don't appreciate having to pry my Dura-Ace cassettes off my wheel to prepare for a Crit (And replaced it twice). I've already purchased a used SRM and going to buy another. The Power Tap is going on E-Bay soon.


This is an issue with all aluminum freehub bodies - most stock Shimano and Campy are steel for this reason. I agree with Wookie; I recently had to replace my PowerTap freehub and also went with the steel replacement freehub body.


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## jac44 (Feb 11, 2005)

Dopamine said:


> This is an issue with all aluminum freehub bodies - most stock Shimano and Campy are steel for this reason. I agree with Wookie; I recently had to replace my PowerTap freehub and also went with the steel replacement freehub body.



Thank You Dopamine didn't know that, But, I have still developed a hate relationship with PowerTap

J


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## Dopamine (Jun 2, 2009)

jac44 said:


> Thank You Dopamine didn't know that, But, I have still developed a hate relationship with PowerTap
> 
> J


Well I too was annoyed that my PowerTap freehub body wore out in only about 4,000 miles (there is a coil spring on the inside that causes the pawls to engage the splines and the spring broke so one pawl was not engaging). Shimano and Campy freehubs usually last basically forever. 

I have never used an SRM though.


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## brentley (Jul 20, 2008)

My powertap freehub body is also very very loud, is this common?

My 32 hole ultegra wheels are basically silent. There are some days that I enjoy riding them more than my powertap.

And to add some value to this, I have found that Saris customer service is awesome, I have called them several times and every time I get a human, and when I had a part on my trainer break they shipped me a replacement immediately.


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## PMC (Jan 29, 2004)

Ok I didn't read through all the replies but one hidden cost is good software aka TrainingPeaks WKO+.
That and batteries
Add in down time to have them rebuilt when they die (if they die). I had a standard that I never had an issue with and then had a PTsl that needed to be sent back twice for rebuilds. I still have it although it hasn't been used in quite some time as I don't really train anymore.

Ergomo main drawback was it was junk (lots of broken ones) and was not accurate even when they worked. If it was accurate at 200 watts it wasn't at 300, etc. I had one and it was really frustrating knowing the numbers were junk and there was nothing you could do about it. I went through two head units and three bottom brackets before I gave up.

SRM octalink is still ok as you could buy a few extra bottom brackets or swap arms for campy square taper arms which you can still get (I think). 

The ultimate power meter IMO is a wired DA SRM or if you happen to own a Cannondale the SI version which is by far the best unit hands down I ever used. By best I mean the slope hardly budged over years of use and the offset was really stable.


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## tonyzackery (Jan 11, 2007)

Dopamine said:


> This is an issue with all aluminum freehub bodies - most stock Shimano and Campy are steel for this reason. I agree with Wookie; I recently had to replace my PowerTap freehub and also went with the steel replacement freehub body.


Where do you find the steel freehub bodies? I've searched with no success to date. Thanks.


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## Spunout (Aug 12, 2002)

Freehubs are available from Saris.

I have almost 4 years on mine. Second freehub, a few wiring harnesses, warrantied a few head units. After 7 rims the hub still works very well.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

tonyzackery said:


> Where do you find the steel freehub bodies? I've searched with no success to date. Thanks.


Call up Saris and ask them directly...it's not something they list on their parts area of the website.


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## Undecided (Apr 2, 2007)

spin150 said:


> Used mine for 2.5 years without problems. Be careful when replacing batteries to keep it sealed. Sometimes it stops working in the rain - probably when the contacts on the head unit get wet.


Mine has gotten wet a few times over the past two years, but it always came back ok after replacing the batteries, and I thought I'd solved the wetness problem by using a liquid gasket product. It got wet recently, though, and although it came back when I replaced the batteries, I could see some corrosion on the battery carrier, and it stopped transmitting after the new batteries had about an hour of riding time on them. I've ordered a new battery carrier (and o-ring) from Saris, so we'll see if that takes care of it.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Is bearing adjustment on Powertap a conventional cup and cone system with loose ball bearings? (eg, like shimano hubs).
Or something else?
Are bearings user-serviceable or user-adjustable?


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