# MTB for commuting?



## shades9323 (Apr 30, 2006)

Would a MTB make a good low cost commuter? They are more abundant and cost less than road bikes. I am looking for a low cost option. I want to have a rack,panniers, and fenders on the bike. Good idea? Yea or nay?


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## carbon13 (Dec 23, 2007)

l use to commute on a mountain bike for about 9 years
l cut the handle bars down so l could fit though tight spaces 
l also used tioga city slickers 1.25 inch and found they where very comfortable and great for going up and down curbs, with the36 spoke wheels and mavic rims made them very durable 
l think they work better as commuter because you dont have to worry so much about the road and can concentrate on the cars around you
all that said the distance you have to commute will play a big role in your choice 
they are slower than a road bike
ps the stopping distance with basic v breaks is amazing


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## shades9323 (Apr 30, 2006)

My commute is about 8 miles each way. 2-3 miles is on the road, the rest is on a MUT.


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## Chain (Dec 28, 2006)

My wife commutes about 8 miles RT on her MTB. She doesn't want to lock her Serotta outside her work. MTB also allows her to take a shortcut through a field when it's not muddy. It works great for her.

She has it set up with both front and rear fenders, racks and panniers. Headlight and tailight for when it's dark out. She's been using the setup for about 10 years. 

She's starting to talk about getting a new bike for her commute so we'll see where that leads.


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## StageHand (Dec 27, 2002)

Short answer yes.

Cutting costs will come with some drawbacks. Different people see different things as drawbacks, just be aware of what bothers you when you commute, and make sure those issues are dealt with.


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## Treker (Nov 7, 2007)

An old hardtail non-suspension Specialized Hardrock Ultra MTB is the bike I use as a commuter. I have it outfitted with fenders, rear rack, and head and tail lights, computer, etc. I ride about 10 miles round trip to work and back, so a little shorter than you. 

True, a MTB is a little less effecient than a road bike, but the wider tires and cantilever brakes are great for riding in an environment with mixed road surfaces. As already mentioned, slicks will help a bit in the efficency area. I would also look for a hardtail non-suspension MTB if you are looking for a little faster ride on the road. Suspensions are great for smoothing out the rough spots on a mountain trail, but they also sap energy that could be utilized to move you forward.

I picked up my early '90's vintage Specialized Hard Rock Ultra off of Craigslist last spring for only $50, and it was nearly new! I think it had only been ridden around a surburban neighborhood from time to time and probably had less than 50 miles on it. It spent most of its life hung up in the guys garage. I spent more money on accessories than I spent on the bike itself! Like you said, there are lots of used MTB's around to choose from.

Later,


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

The only time MTBs really suck for commuting is if you want to go on a long road ride after work- 30-50 miles of trying to keep up with roadies gets old really quick. 

BUT, for commuting, they kick @$$. Like Trekker said, Get yerself an old, pre-suspension mtb. The wheels for yer basic deore level mtb from the late 80's/early 90s are overbuilt and bombproof, as are most of the components. Plus, the paint is usually some godawful combination of primary colors and flourescents, so no one will want to steal it from you. Really, all you've got to do is add racks and swap out the tires to something with less nobs and you are good to go.

Check craigslist in yer area- there's always someone looking to dump a fantastic steel MTB.


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

I use a SS steel MTB for my short commute. It rules. Lose the ridiculous flat bars, replace with Nitto Dove or Albatross bars. More upright, more comfortable, the heads up is perfect for city riding. Fenders, rack, lights, you're good. Who CARES if it ain't as fast as yer roadie? This only matters if you have a long commute...you're not in a hurry to get to _work_, are you?


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## shades9323 (Apr 30, 2006)

Doggity said:


> I use a SS steel MTB for my short commute. It rules. Lose the ridiculous flat bars, replace with Nitto Dove or Albatross bars. More upright, more comfortable, the heads up is perfect for city riding. Fenders, rack, lights, you're good. Who CARES if it ain't as fast as yer roadie? This only matters if you have a long commute...you're not in a hurry to get to _work_, are you?


Certainly not! My roadie isn't that fast anyway.:thumbsup:


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

Doggity said:


> I use a SS steel MTB for my short commute. It rules. Lose the ridiculous flat bars, replace with Nitto Dove or Albatross bars. More upright, more comfortable, the heads up is perfect for city riding. Fenders, rack, lights, you're good. Who CARES if it ain't as fast as yer roadie? This only matters if you have a long commute...you're not in a hurry to get to _work_, are you?


Before you lose the flat bars, try the doves and albatrosseses. Some people love them, but they aren't comfortable for everyone. Same with mustache bars. I've found that my wrists need to be turned 90 degrees ala road bike or straight, ala flat bars- anywhere in between is pretty uncomfortable. YMMV.


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## Sledgehammer03 (Mar 7, 2006)

*Why Not?*

There are lots of little things that you can do to make riding to work more enjoyable. Handle bars, rack, fenders, lights, etc. If you find that you really enjoy riding to work, and have the available moo-lah, you can spring for a sweet ride later on.

I have found, that since I began riding to work, the little things make the difference and keep it fun.


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## Guest (Dec 27, 2007)

IMHO and from my experience one is much better riding a CX bike, preferably set up so that one's position is the same as one's main road ride.

Riding many miles in the same position is arguably better for training and for avoiding injuries.

A sturdy CX frame and ~32mm tires is more than enough for even a commute down dirt tracks and cobbles.

It baffles me why people ride MTBs...many riding full suspension...on smooth roads. 

Having to change to slicks only confirms that one is not using the MTB for the application is was designed for...which is offroad.


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## shades9323 (Apr 30, 2006)

the_rydster said:


> IMHO and from my experience one is much better riding a CX bike, preferably set up so that one's position is the same as one's main road ride.
> 
> Riding many miles in the same position is arguably better for training and for avoiding injuries.
> 
> ...


You must have skipped right over the "low cost" portion and the 16 mile RT commute!


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## Guest (Dec 27, 2007)

shades9323 said:


> You must have skipped right over the "low cost" portion and the 16 mile RT commute!


Sure there are always exceptions, but I wonder what % of annual US commuter miles are actually RT?

...and as for low cost it is just not true that MTBs are cheaper.


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## Treker (Nov 7, 2007)

the_rydster said:


> <Snip>
> 
> ...and as for low cost it is just not true that MTBs are cheaper.


I am not sure I agree with you on this one. As a new purchase it is certainly true, but not as a used purchase, and I think that is partly what shades9323 is asking about. 

The main reason for this is that there were many more MTB's produced during the late '80's and early '90's than cross bikes (or hybrids if you want to count them in the cross bike numbers) making them very abundant on the used market. 

Then there is the old supply and demand rule going on here too. Lots of supply and little demand means lower prices. So in general old steel non-suspension MTB are very abundant and relatively cheap on the used market. Also, since there were not as many cross bikes built during this same time period your choices in a used model are much reduced. I suppose you could probably find one pretty cheap, but your biggest problem will be finding one in the first place.

Later,


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

the_rydster said:


> It baffles me why people ride MTBs...many riding full suspension...on smooth roads.
> 
> Having to change to slicks only confirms that one is not using the MTB for the application is was designed for...which is offroad.


"Pile on"  

I'm in the process of setting up a rigid MTB for a commuter. Why? I'll tell you why.  

First, I snagged the bike at a thrift shop for under $10.

Second, I have an older full suspension MTB with funkyedup polymer suspension that I'm taking the components off of to replace the cheaper rigid's bike components.

Third, my commute will be a mix of roads, rail-to-trail paved trail, crushed granite bike paths, maybe some dirt trail shortcuts, might end up hopping over a railroad track, some of the roadsides on the way have major issues with potholes, and the end of the commute is through a marginally higher crime area where I might have to do a little creative evasive riding to avoid confrontations, plus having a clunker looking bike makes it less theft prone, all adding up to making a MTB a more practical choice.

Fourth, this is Wisconsin and it's currently snowy and icy out, so with the various bikes I've salvaged I've ended up with a few spare MTB wheelsets so I can have one set with the studded snow tires, a second set with semi-knobbies with smooth centers and knobbed sides, and a third set with full-on knobbies.

Once the weather warms and the road salts wash away then I'll get out the road bike(s) for commuter duty and will select a longer but friendlier route to the current job.

Sometimes a MTB just makes more sense for some people.

And now you've got me to thinking about getting a cross bike someday.


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## aboyd (Jul 23, 2005)

*Sure...*

MTB makes a great low cost commuter. I have been commuting 8 miles round trip on an old 93 model Stumpjumber with Kenda slicks. I converted it to a single speed and it has been just fine. That being said, I am upgrading to a Cyclocross bike because I want to do 30-40 mile rides after work, and the SS MTB ain't gonna get it for that. I ordered a Motobecane Fantom Cross which will be here tomorrow....I hope, and I hope to have it all setup before going back to work on the 2nd. By the way, I will keep the Stumpjumber for fun riding also....


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## slowrider (Mar 12, 2004)

One of my three singlespeed commuter bikes is and old rigid mtb (44x18). I call it "The Tank". On bad weather days, or days that could turn into a bad weather day, this bike is the best. Oh yeah, Did I mention I got this bike for FREE. I saw a gem (The dropouts were perfect for a singlespeed), when the guy that gave it to me was throwing it in the trash. My commute is 31 miles. Yes, this bike is heavy, but over the past 3 years, I've commuted over 1000 miles on this bike on days I would not have rode my other bikes. 

My tire of choice is the Continential City Contact (26x1.75). As far as tires, I tried and destroyed the Performance Brand 26x1.25. Michelins Trans City 26X1.50 were o.k. but you have to clean the road crap out of the tires after every ride.

I would look for and old 90's rigid mtb. Nobody wants them.


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## Lake Prairie Flyer (Aug 20, 2004)

I'm riding a Cannondale M300 mountain bike I picked up at a pawn shop a few years back. I think by the time I had equipped it with fenders and lights I had around $250 invested in it. The bike is actually a little nicer than what I was looking for but I couldn't pass up the deal. It's the winter beater bike so for my commute, I kept the knobby tires that came with it because they work great in the 20 inches of snow we've had this month here in Minnesota. It's more of workout than the regular commuter but it's exactly what I need on unplowed streets, mounds of snow and some occasional trail breaking on the MUT.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

the_rydster said:


> It baffles me why people ride MTBs...many riding full suspension...on smooth roads.


Hey, I resemble that remark!

Actually, I've only done it once and I did it because I wanted to mix it up some. I found out that those wide knobbies are terrible for trying to get any kind of speed on the street but the 5.5" of travel really soaked up the worst that the streets of downtown San Francisco could throw at me. Not only that but the knobbies left me feeling like my tires were invincible as I only needed to watch for the larger pieces of glass to avoid. When I ride my roadie to work I'm watching for any and all glass on the road, not an easy task when it is dark out and my headlight doesn't lay down enough light to see what I'm about to roll over in the wee early hours of the morning before the sun rises.


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## meat tooth paste (Oct 6, 2004)

Mountain bikes can make good commuters. Over the years, I've commuted on different bikes. I think after trying everything, I've decided to go with a rigid mountain with slicks mounted for weekday commute mode and knobbies for weekend trail mode. I like the upright position and pothole/rough street abilitiies, and burlier build for day to day riding.

The most important thing is to ditch the knobby tires and mount some semi or full slick tires. This will give your mtn bike a completely different feel in ride and performance. The slick tires will make a nite and day difference. Performance has some good affordable 26x1.5 commuting tires.

If the mountain bike you're looking at doesn't have rack eyelets to mount a rack, those seatpost mounted racks work just as well. Just avoid the quick release mount cause they can jacked when the bike is locked up.


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## cyclust (Sep 8, 2004)

A few years back, I picked up a Cannondale hardtail that had been converted to a commuter. All that was done from stock was road handlebars with STI shifters, travel agents to make the road levers work with the v brakes, and the tires were swapped for 1.5 slicks. The fork was a headshock with lockout, which was perfect for a commuter, and it was a little beat up, to keep the cost down. I can't imagine a better commuter than that set up.


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## meat tooth paste (Oct 6, 2004)

cyclust said:


> A few years back, I picked up a Cannondale hardtail that had been converted to a commuter.


Cannondale hardtails with the lock-out headshoxs make great commuters with 1.5 slicks.


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## Slim Again Soon (Oct 25, 2005)

*Cannondale*

I've recently converted my Cannondale hardtail to duty as a commuter -- works great.

It has the head shock, which is a lot lighter than other MTB shocks, and you can lock it out (mine stays locked out throughout the commute, which is all paved roads).

I had installed a Thudbuster seatpost. I kept it in the Cannondale in its new role -- takes the bump out of city streets.

Slicks make all the difference -- not as fast as a road bike, but much faster and less tiring than pushing those knobbies. More agile, too.

The bike feels capable and dang near indestructable.

The only problem is gearing -- too low.

I am looking for some steeper chainrings to give me more top end.

This was a temporary set up to give me something to ride to work while I rebuilt my road (and commuter) bike, but now I am going to keep it this way.

I may secure a separate wheelset with knobbies so I can go back and forth for trail riding when the urge hits.


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## bas (Jul 30, 2004)

shades9323 said:


> My commute is about 8 miles each way. 2-3 miles is on the road, the rest is on a MUT.


2003 gary fisher tassajara hardtail, 10,000 miles.. commuter, 9 miles with backpack..

shimano low spoke mtb rims, 80 psi python tires 26x2.0.. the 80 psi tires ROCK.. you just roll on these tires.. much better than the transworld city 60 psi 1.75's i had (too heavy, but very puncture resistant).

use a backpack instead of a rack. zip lock your keys/wallet/cell. use double bags on your clothes. leave your shoes/towel at work. leave the lock/cable at where you lock your bike.


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## Pablo (Jul 7, 2004)

I commute occasionally 15 miles each way on a newly bought rigid 29er. It's faster than my previous 26er. It's a nice option for snowy/icy days. Also, a 29er can be set up for a more roadie-like position than many mountain bikes.


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## kvojr (Jul 17, 2007)

the_rydster said:


> IMHO and from my experience one is much better riding a CX bike, preferably set up so that one's position is the same as one's main road ride.
> 
> Riding many miles in the same position is arguably better for training and for avoiding injuries.
> 
> ...



Next thing you know, poeple will have suspension on their automobiles!!! What is this world coming to?

Just ride what you want, it's your bike. IMO an MTB makes a great commuter, I'm putting one together now myself, an older Balance that I got for 50 buck. Heck, ride a pink Huffy to work if you want, as long as you like it.


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

Especially as a winter bike, a SS MTB (or SS cyclocross) has no equal. I just rode mine thru snow, snowmelt, ice, mud, salt, and 'roads' that more closely resembled shallow streams, in sub 30 degree weather. Even with full fenders, my SS bomber was just plastered with that red sand they throw down during snowstorms, and plain ol' mud. I just hung it up, and will ride it again soon as the weather permits. Too cold to hose it off right now. Try that with something derailleured.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

Doggity said:


> Especially as a winter bike, a SS MTB (or SS cyclocross) has no equal. I just rode mine thru snow, snowmelt, ice, mud, salt, and 'roads' that more closely resembled shallow streams, in sub 30 degree weather. Even with full fenders, my SS bomber was just plastered with that red sand they throw down during snowstorms, and plain ol' mud. I just hung it up, and will ride it again soon as the weather permits. Too cold to hose it off right now. Try that with something derailleured.


As long as you've got the indexing turned off, derailleurs handle that kind of crap pretty well. Or, at least, they have for the last 3 weeks...


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

buck-50 said:


> As long as you've got the indexing turned off, derailleurs handle that kind of crap pretty well. Or, at least, they have for the last 3 weeks...


Hope to find out soon, as I'm going to be building my Surly CC(or whatever the hell I end up with) with friction shifters.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

Doggity said:


> Hope to find out soon, as I'm going to be building my Surly CC(or whatever the hell I end up with) with friction shifters.


A word of advice/warning- friction shifting with more than 8 cogs sucks hard. At least, that's been my experience. I've got friction on my winter beater MTB with an 8 speed cassette. I've also got friction (as an option) on my 9 speed rivendell. 

On the MTB, I never miss a shift in friction mode, no matter how crappy the weather or how crammed up with ice the rear derailleur is. On the Riv, even though it's cleaner, 9 speeds and friction=pure frustration. 

Your mileage may vary.


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