# Cannondale Supersix EVO clicking noise



## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

I bought a 2012 Cannondale Supersix EVO frame last September and was loving the bike everyday till it developed this clicking sound which I cannot diagnose. I am running full Shimano Ultegra gear on the bike and have an Enduro adapter to run the Shimano crank. Heres a vid of the noise.






It clicks when I’m pedaling lightly, as shown in the vid, when I’m keeping a constant speed, or when I’m pedaling a bit harder trying to fight off headwind or up a small slope. The click is still audible when I first step into the bike from a stop without sitting on the seat or when I’m standing. If I really mash on the pedals the click goes away.

Ive checked everything and made sure the stem, headset, seat post, seat, pedals, chain, quick release skewers and chainring bolts are tight and not making any sound. I took it back to the dealer to have it looked at and they though it’s the bearing and replaced it. Ive taken apart the crank, cleaned off all the dirt and grease and relubed everything and reinstalled the crank. None of the efforts Ive put in seem to solve the problem. It was suggested that I try a different adapter or a different crank and run without the adapters but Im skeptical.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

clicks can be hard to find.

I have to say that a high percentage of mine were traced to a pedal.

2nd choice would be cleat issue.

Suggest you try a change of pedals & shoes for a test ride.


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## hypercycler (Aug 6, 2010)

My guess would be the crank assembly... My CAAD 10 got a similar noise, it turned out that the factory installed a wrong spacer for the FSA BB30 crank, replaced it with a correct shim and the noise's gone, for now. If you or your dealer got a BB30 crankset laying around, try to swap them and give it a try. Let us know, good luck!


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

hypercycler said:


> My guess would be the crank assembly... My CAAD 10 got a similar noise, it turned out that the factory installed a wrong spacer for the FSA BB30 crank, replaced it with a correct shim and the noise's gone, for now. If you or your dealer got a BB30 crankset laying around, try to swap them and give it a try. Let us know, good luck!


OP does not have BB30. He's running an adapter and Shimano crankset.


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## hypercycler (Aug 6, 2010)

Yes I know, I meant that it could be the adapter + none BB30 crankset, so see if he can run a BB30 crankset and see if the noise still there. Just a suggestion....


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

bikerjulio said:


> clicks can be hard to find.
> 
> I have to say that a high percentage of mine were traced to a pedal.
> 
> ...


I tried changing pedals with my brothers bike, the sound is still there. I even pedaled with regular shoes/sandals and the sound remains.



hypercycler said:


> My guess would be the crank assembly... My CAAD 10 got a similar noise, it turned out that the factory installed a wrong spacer for the FSA BB30 crank, replaced it with a correct shim and the noise's gone, for now. If you or your dealer got a BB30 crankset laying around, try to swap them and give it a try. Let us know, good luck!


Yeah, I will definitely go to the shop today and see if they have a BB30 crank for me to try. This will most definitely tell me that the adapters are at fault here. Question is should I even bother with another adapter (saves money) or just go all out and get a new crank ($$$$ but hopefully eliminate any problems down the road)


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## NWS Alpine (Mar 16, 2012)

Only adapter I would trust is the praxis one. It screws together and presses into the BB. 

That being said just get some hollowgrams and be done with it!


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

As much as I like to buy the SISL2 hollowgram crankset, I cant justify spending $700 for the standard hollowgram and $1000 for the SISL2.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

Before you through money at a new crank.....did the dealer replace both bearings?
I have seen several BB30 bearings that tick....the have to be replaced and seated correctly.
I have a 2013 Evo running a SRM Dura Ace crank with the same adpater ( stock bearings...just using the adpapter) and have no problem...

EDIT: I am using the Wheels MFGR adapters.....I still have the Enduro bearing/adapters in a box


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

Yeah he did replace both bearings. I watched him do it

I had no problem with the bike when I first got it. It didnt make any noise, but after a while it started to creep up.

I wanted to try the Wheels adapter since they are made of plastic and should be more pliable...but if a new crank would solve my problem, might just go that route. instead of wasting more time and money on something that may or may not work.

Got any suggestions on which crank would be a good replacement for the Shimano Ultegra thats around 200-250? thinking of the Sram Red black edition.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

I just looked at the Enduro adapter....
Not too impressed with it....especially the rubber oring set up.
The Wheels Mfgr is a tight fit inside the bearing.
You can do what you want....but I'd try a $25 solution before I ran out and bought a new crank.
And first...I'd try some assembly lube/ anti seize on the enduro adapter instead of throwing money at it


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

Well I think i solved my problem. Went out riding this morning and came across some bumpy road. It was making the same clicking noise when i went over the bumps but if I stand up to my ass doesnt absorb all the bumps, the sound is gone. This got me thinking if its really because of my seat post. The last person to mess with my seat post was the shop because they need to put the bike stand clamp around my post and it was too short. I trust him to tighten it up correctly.

I put my hand on the stem where the seat post goes into to feel the click and sure enough I feel it. Went home, took it apart and it was pretty dry. I lubed up the stem checked all bolts again on the seat to make sure it was tightened, and reinstalled the stem into the bike. Tightened down the clamp and went out for a ride.

Dead Silent.

I dont have to waste money for a new crank or adapters. Cant be happier.

Never trust a tech to take care of your bike, best if you go over everything yourself after you have your bike serviced by them.

But on the adapter, I might still buy it. The wheel mfgr probably be lighter at 50g a pair vs the machine aluminum.

Thanks for all your help guys


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## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

NOTHING is better than a silent bike, just the sounds of the tires on the road, fantastic. I ride with a few guys, strong riders but its always clicks and clanks, it would drive me bonkers. 

Anyway congrats on the new bike.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

Glad you got that worked out!
I came back here expecting to read that you bought a new crank....and there's still a click.
I have a Orbea Orca that started making a horrendous clack when ever the wheels were rolling...sounded like it was coming from the front wheel. I changed the wheel and it still made the clack.
I had a friend ride beside me and he said he could barely hear a small click noise....but on the bike, it was a loud CLACK every wheel revolution.
I lubed everything...and it still did it...although...it would go away for a little bit after I removed the rear wheel.
The non drive side dropout has a small alloy insert that is like the drive side hanger ( except without the hanger) I removed it, cleaned it and reinstalled.
Silent bike!
Hollow carbon tubes amplify...and re direct sounds...


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## pedalingsquares (Feb 14, 2009)

If you go with the adapter look into the Praxis BB30. It's great, solid and mount your Shimano crankset without any issues.


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## evs (Feb 18, 2004)

*It could be this WTF Cannondale...*

brickhouseracing » Supersix EVO Update



pedalingsquares said:


> If you go with the adapter look into the Praxis BB30. It's great, solid and mount your Shimano crankset without any issues.


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

Oh wow. Thats pretty shady of Cannondale. I would never imagine that they would first of all cover something like that and second of all even let the frame be shipped the way it is.

Good thing my frame didnt have that issue. I tested out both side of the bearing and they are running smooth. I was able to spin my crank backwards and do almost 2 full turns before coming to a stop. Nothing scientific or anything to brag about, but its smooth enough for me. It was a farcry from before, I was only able to get it to turn 1/8-1/4 of a turn before stopping. Again, the fine work of a monkey with a wrench


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