# 2012 Spec Roubaix SL3 Build



## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Finally, after 3 months of waiting for the frame, parts, and money to finish the project, I started the build process today at my LBS. It was worth the wait and quite the adventure. I love the color scheme even more now than when I opened the box up three weeks ago. Some mental notes I took away from today:

1. There's never a bad day to build a bike

2. Having a good relationship with your LBS is very beneficial for first time builders. I was able to perform the work in their shop with instruction and guidance from their master mechanic. Great learning opportunity.

3. Measure twice, cut once (duh), then re-measure and calibrate.

4. For the Ultegra 6700 shifters, install the cabling prior to installing on the bars. Slotting the cable is tricky and getting it to work took several try's.

5. Installing the crank and fork were not as difficult as I thought. The threaded BB was a piece of cake and the fork went on the first time w/o issues.

The following are photos from day 1. The problem with the shifters left us short of time to finish. Will go back at it tomorrow.


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## vontress (Jul 19, 2009)

That is really an awesome service they offer. Nice bike too.


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## skinidipi (Aug 22, 2011)

A very nice service indeed. Would be interested to know if it cost you anything extra to be part of the experience. I would hate to know what my hourly rate would be to enjoy such a learning experience. Here are the posted rates for my LBS who I have my Roubaix Pro on order with...

HOURLY RATES:
Need something specific done? Fix a flat? Build a wheel? Overhaul suspension systems? Build or box a bike? We can do it all.

$50 per hour.
$60 per hour if you watch.
$70 per hour if you help.
$100 per hour if you worked on it first.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Since I just built the same bike only with Campy...a couple of comments and questions.

Give the bike shop builder some credit for installing an extra spacer under the stem stack that didn't come with the frameset. I did the same thing...as stock spacer height is just a tad short and this will give you a bit of adjustability.

First a comment before you get too far along with your derailleur cable installation. I see no in line cable housing adjusters in your build under the handlebar in the last picture. If you go that route, you won't be able to trim your front and rear derailleurs every easily. I would give this some thought before you complete your build...Jagwire adjusters come with the frameset.

I have been in contact with Specialized tech support as they changed the spec for the ICR cable stops...all four are the same....they are all marked no. 3...which doesn't reflect the build PDF that they have posted on their site for cable installation. I see however you properly crossed the cables which is a good thing. Ask your bike shop tech if he plans to install ferrules into the top tube stops for the 'rear brake' cable? Myself and another knowledgable builder...buster...who also just built up a Pro...didn't. We did use ferrules for the derailleur cable ends into the downtube stops however because derailleur housings are 4mm in diameter and ferrules create a nice firm slip fit and support the derailleur cable ends which they require.

Build looks good and I too love the frame graphics and color. I have ridden the bike now and you are going to love it. I hope you put it on the scale at the shop when complete. Your frame looks to be a 56 and mine is a 58. My bike compete with computer, bottle cages etc. is 18.5 lbs. 

Have fun.


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Skinidipi: I'll have the final cost later today. I expect a little extra cost to be added for his time, even though I provided a good amount of physical labor. I asked to be part of the experience for just that, to gain more experience in bike building and to prepare me to handle my own conversions down the road on my other bike(s). Ironically, everything that involved cutting, he had me do .

Roadworthy: The extra space was one of the first items we did during the mock-up. They don't have the same finish as the ones that came with the frame, but I can change those later. He indicated how important it was not to cut the fork tube too short before the fitting process. Good move indeed.

We talked about the Jagwire adjusters before installing the cables. I have only needed to adjust my front deraillure once this summer. Two other riders watching the build said they have never needed to adjust theirs and the mechanical indicated that over time, those adjusters tend to loosen up and cause a little rattle. There is already the barrel adjuster on the rear, so there isn't much need to add another micro-adjuster to that device. Lastly, he indicated that half of the people with these newer bikes have installed them and half have not. I decided not to in order to have a cleaner look and less potential issue with the rattle or loosening. Good catch.

My cable stops were all indicated with the number 3 on them. I had printed off a Technical Bulletin, however it was for the 2011 version, so it wasn't much help. Luckily, Spec shipped with the proper and current materials. We will be doing the brake cables later this morning and I will ask him about the ferrules. I did see some though in the packet of parts.

The Spec Rep was there when we started and did give me some feedback on the ride quality. Looking forward to getting on it today as the weather looks dry and mild. He asked what my goal was for weight and I'm hoping to break the 17 lbs mark, but my wheels may keep that from happening. I'm using my old Pro-Lites (approx 1595 grams) until this Spring when I hope to put on Fulcrum 0's or a Carbon type. If my calculations are correct, it would be 16 lbs 12 oz. However, I hadn't factored in my computer and cadence sensor. It is a 56 cm, nice eye.

I'll post the remaining pics this evening with the final weight and my thoughts. Thanks for the comments.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Yup...the Jagwire adjusters are a personal choice. . Takes a talented man to dial in the front derailleur in particular purely with cable tension and wouldn't want to fly without the front adjuster at least. I don't like chain rattle in front in particular when running a bit cross chained. Sounds like you gave it consideration which is good.

You mentioned you saw ferrules in your packet...perhaps you meant the packet that came with your cable kit. The ferrules I speak of are two different diameters...they would come with your cable packet...perhaps that's where you saw them. Campy cable kits do _not_ offer ferrules for the brake cables as they are virtually extinct on modern road bikes. A derailleur cable housing diameter is 4mm OD. Brake cable housing is 5mm OD. Ferrules fit nicely into the ICR stops when applied to derailleur cables...can't tell by your picture if you installed them...but presume you did.
For the brake cable housing...since it is 5mm OD it is unclear if a brake cable housing specific ferrule will fit inside the common ICR stops since now all ICR stops marked no. 3 are same and the derailleur housing ferrules are pretty snug to the ID of the ICR stops...if that makes sense. So will be interested to hear if you use or try to use ferrules for your brake cables. Anyway, a bit more context for you to consider. Just to let you know, myself and buster did not install ferrules for our brake cable housings. FWIW, its more critical to install ferrules for derailleur cables because the ferrule reinforces the longitudnal strands that comprise derailleur housings. Brake cable housings are wound and natively have better compressive strength without ferrules and why they are seldom used on newer bikes. Some additional perspective.

I look forward to your finish pics. Enjoy the process.


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## Devastazione (Dec 8, 2011)

Amazing !! What and adventure !! Needless to say more pics wanted !


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roadworthy said:


> FWIW, its more critical to install ferrules for derailleur cables because the ferrule reinforces the longitudnal strands that comprise derailleur housings. Brake cable housings are wound and natively have better compressive strength without ferrules and why they are seldom used on newer bikes.


Aside from the ICR der. housing concerns, I agree that it's important to use ferrules when running der. housing, but not for the reason mentioned. It could be argued that longitudinally strung wires actually counter those same longitudinal forces better than wound brake housing, so the reason der. ferrules are important is because they prevent 'slop' (or play) at their points of entry. This is why many manufacturers specify alloy ferrules at the RD, although I've never encountered a problem with the good quality plastic variety.

The reason ferrules aren't needed for brake applications is because (at least IME with Shimano) there's a built in ferrule, allowing no additional space for another, so no slop/ play at points of entry.

To the OP: Regarding your choice of no inline adjuster, I concur. The last 'from scratch' build I did I had no adjuster handy so I opted to do the set up without one. Except for maybe one minor readjustment after the cable bedded in, I had no issues with it - and IME 'simpler' minimizes the chances for cable drag.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Aside from the ICR der. housing concerns, I agree that it's important to use ferrules when running der. housing, but not for the reason mentioned. It could be argued that longitudinally strung wires actually counter those same longitudinal forces better than wound brake housing, so the reason der. ferrules are important is because they prevent 'slop' (or play) at their points of entry. This is why many manufacturers specify alloy ferrules at the RD, although I've never encountered a problem with the good quality plastic variety.
> 
> The reason ferrules aren't needed for brake applications is because (at least IME with Shimano) there's a built in ferrule, allowing no additional space for another, so no slop/ play at points of entry.
> 
> To the OP: Regarding your choice of no inline adjuster, I concur. The last 'from scratch' build I did I had no adjuster handy so I opted to do the set up without one. Except for maybe one minor readjustment after the cable bedded in, I had no issues with it - and IME 'simpler' minimizes the chances for cable drag.


Don't want to turn this into a design treatise on cable housings. ...but when longitudnal strands are placed in compression loaded axially, they will try and displace laterally. Derailleur cables on the ends require compression i.e. ferrules to avert lateral displacement i.e. ends from mushrooming due to strands separating. Slop has nothing to do with it. Ports of entry aka ICR stops could be sized easily line to line with bare derailleur housings but it is understood that ferrules are required for best performance to keep the strands from displacing outboard on the ends. 

As to the in line adjusters, virtually all the Roubaixs I have seen built are with adjusters, as are a pleathora of other bikes from the factory with hidden cable routing. I wouldn't be without but good you support the viewpoint of BikerNutz.
Btw...I won't sully BikerNutz's build thread with any additional commentary on housing design. We all agree that design intent is to include ferrules on derailleur housings into the ICR stops. Was curious if he tried to include brake housing ferrules...if they would even fit. I am surprised by my response from Specialized is why I ask.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roadworthy said:


> ... when longitudnal strands are placed in compression loaded axially, they will try and displace laterally. Derailleur cables on the ends require compression i.e. ferrules to avert lateral displacement i.e. ends from mushrooming due to strands separating. Slop has nothing to do with it.


The first statement is correct, but the same holds true for wound (brake) housings. Your 'argument' was that brake housings were superior. My stand is that the opposite is true because longitudinal strands work against compression better than wound. That's one reason der housing can be 1mm slimmer than brake housing and still meet 'load' requirements.

Re: the second statement, while it's true that ferrules serve to finish the ends of the housing, they also make for a snug fit, preventing slop/ play (your 'lateral flex') at point of entry. If you doubt this, remove the ferrule at your RD, reinstall the cable, shift through the gears and watch the housing flex at the end. 

I have no firsthand experience with internal cable routing or the need (or lack thereof) of ferrules at the entry/ exit points, but based on what you and others have offered, would likely include them on a build for the same reasons I mentioned previously.

Re: opting out of inline adjusters, IMO that's a separate issue from ICR equipped bikes. For certain, most bikes utilize them, but IME with some care in FD set up they're a convenience, not a requirement. An option that may appeal to other members.


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Well, she's finally completed. Before the pics, let me respond to some conversations. As for the ferrels, you were correct Roadworthy, we were talking about different items. The metal ferrels would not fit in the inserts where the cable goes into the frame. Therefore, they could not be used. I did keep them to use with my other bike, Cannondale. I will be tearing it down this winter, repainting, and replacing components, including the cables as they are showing cracks in the bends.

I'm glad I didn't use the Jagwire adjusters, I've got such a clean look that it would just clutter the area up. I suppose there may be a time for the need, but for now I don't see it. Maybe on the next project.

I will have to say that I really learned alot about the build process and little tips-n-tricks from the shop mechanic. He was extremely meticulous during the entire process and made sure everything was true and tight. He even removed the tiny bolts out of the Zerts inserts and put lock-tite on them. Every screw, bolt, wire, insert, etc. was lubed and triple checked during and after the process. As he said, this was what they consider a "Pro Build", not your standard put together out of the box type of set-up. Their shop is going to post the chronicle of the build on their website.

During the first ride, I suited up and hit it hard. I wanted to feel what this thing could do. WOW! Not only did it romp, it was butter smooth. I purposely looked for cracks in the road, but it never felt as jarring as my CAAD 8. There are many adjustments to be made over the next few weeks before I go through the BG Fit process, but I can't say enough about the ride quality. After the mechanic took it out, he came back in and just couldn't stop smiling either.

Here they are, enjoy.....


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Some more....


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

I'm having problems posting larger pics. Will try again tomorrow.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Awesome. Congrats! Yeah...BIG difference between this bike and a CAAD 8. Pretty remarkable how Specialized struck a balance between ride quality and stiffness for power transfer. There is no harshness to the ride at all as you say.

To clarify...I tried blowing up your pics but couldn't. Did you use ANY ferrules for the derailleur and brake cables into the ICR stops? You should have used ferrules for the derailleurs because they will fit into the downtube ICR stops and reinforce the ends of the derailleur housings. The Specialized tech I corresponded with even suggested ferrules for the brake housings but quite sure they will NOT fit.

Will say, your build is sure light. I look forward to see larger pics to get a better sense of the content of the bike.

Lastly, you chose a 56cm frame. May I ask how tall you are and what your cycling inseam is?

Congrats again. Bike looks great and no doubt you will love it. Glad you got your derailleurs dialed in without using the Jagwire adjusters as no doubt they do add clutter.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Lots of people post their builds, but they rarely post their price. Is posting the price some sort of taboo around here? Or people don't want the world to know they've overpaid?


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Posting prices generally isn't done anywhere. There is a difference between a taboo and poor taste...most understand the distinction. It is quite uncommon to post the cost for things without being asked. The price for the Roubaix Pro frameset is posted on Specialized website. I will tell you that since I just built the same frameset only with Campy, my bike shop cut me a deal for a bit under retail for the frameset which they ordered for me from Specialized which I thought was very decent of them. They are very good folks. The price for all the components that BikeNutz just built with is readily available as well. If you buy the component group, wheelset, saddle, handlebar etc, new on ebay you can well undercut retail. The math is pretty simple.
Frameset: $2200 + tax retail
Groupset: $1200 depending of course if you built with Ultegra, DuraAce, Campy etc
Cable set: $50-70
Handlebar: $80-$200 depends if you go carbon or alloy
Stem: $50-100 again carbon or alloy
Saddle: $90-130 Toupe or Romin or Equivalent
Bar Tape: $20
Pedals: $150-250 depending on type and model
Wheelset: $400-whatever you want to pay...alloy to carbon
Tires/tubes: $80-$120

For about $4K more or less depending on content, you can build a nice Roubaix Pro.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

yeah I can google online and Ebay and find all of them prices. But a review or build review makes more sense with at least some price direction since any guys are gonna want to know. Is money no object in this world? And why should listing prices be seen as tasteless?? Are we not living in a consumer's world where prices of material goods serve as strong dictators of our buying behavior and preferences? 

Car magazines list the prices of their build ALL the time, it's almost a must (You say you have titanium ceramic headers well then yer better say how much doll you're forking out.). At the end of day, isn't price/performance is major motivating factor readers gonna want to see?

and btw, I notice that when guys got a GREAT deal on a frameset or wheelsets or whatever, they do tend to give out the info unsolicitously, and I don't see people screaming tasteless or anything.

On a more personal level, I would like to know the price of these builds because I'm considering buying either one of many stamped bikes from Taiwan or going for a more custome one (Serotta, Cyfac, etc). I would like to know which build (Taiwanese or a custom) would give me more bang/bucks. $4K for Roubaix Pro is not too bad, but I've seen a new 2012 Tarmac Pro with Sram Red (prolly with cheap wheels) for $3700 from the LBS before tax.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Honestly, and I really don't care how you take this after what you have written but your second comment basically reinforces your first sad addition to this thread after BikerNutz went to the trouble to post his build and then I broke out general costs for you only to read your ignorant lack of appreciation. I would say its guys like you are the reason that more aren't forthcoming with information on the web. Many don't deserve the information...and you are among this subset.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

jesus christ asking for a price on a build on a public forum is now considered tasteless. Are we a bunch of women who get sensitive over just about anything? Anyway I'm sorry, and moving on.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Since you are here asking for advice...let me give me you some more because you are such a good guy. A guy like you should be on a Giant and riding a 105 groupset.  I just saved you 2 grand you don't have. Have a nice day and sorry to see you are leaving disappointed...lol.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Ok I wasn't gonna reply to you, but in your rush to validate your sensitivity you manged to offend all the guys who ride a Giant with a 105 group with your comment. I already said I'm sorry, and moving on. But did I really hurt you that much with my lack of appreciation when I didn't say "thanks" to your precious little price list? 

Now I know you're urging to lay another smack on me (it's in your nature), but think this time ok. Promise. grow a pair.

And let's see how rich your are by showing us your super duper multi dollar armada of bikes in front of your mansion and Bentley & Rolls. I better not see your momma holding your bike while you snap photos! Go on. Impress me.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

What you've done is violate a basic tenant which defines you as a troll. You have selfishly come to a good thread and sullied it. Re-read your first post if you would. That is your introduction. What I did was violate my own 'sensitivity' by responding and providing a price breakdown in an effort to help you understand basic costs in spite of what I though was a rude or backhanded request...really against my better judgement based upon how you 'asked' for pricing.

Then you take it to something to do with being rich, being masculine etc which is pretty laughable.

This is what I hope. I hope the moderator...and will add moderation on this board is very even handed and what makes it such a great forum....reads our exchange and completely eliminates your nasty posts "as well as my responses"....including the price information I provided which would be fine with me. FWIW if there is an interest in cost breakdown, this is typically requested via PM anyway. Just common sense that you seem to lack.
The reason for eliminating our threads? Because this thread isn't about you or me, it is about BikerNutz sharing the joy he felt of building a really nice bike. In other words common courtesy...something you also lack.


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## TheBarista (Jul 11, 2011)

Great build! I am a total noob when it comes to building bikes, especially road bikes. My Tarmac SL4 Pro is going to be built up by my local shop hopefully by the end of next week and I cant wait! While waiting, I did get a chance to ride a Roubaix Expert and found it to be super stiff, but super comfy. I am sure you are going to enjoy yours.

Thanks for sharing the build!

Greg


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Wow guys. Let's end this conversation before the whole thread is dropped by the Mod. I certainly can share additional information, such as pricing as I am somewhat proud of what was accomplished with the dollars I had. I'll provide a complete breakdown in another post. To summarize, I purchased my components overseas because of the low cost and taking advantage of sale prices.

To continue on with my picture problems posted earlier, it turns out something was wrong with my iPhone that day and all the pics were captured at a lower resolution. So unfortunately, I can't post larger ones w/o messing up the clarity of the photo. I'll will put some others up I took at home for those interested in the details of this frame and components used.

Thanks for the comment Barista. I've been out a couple times now and still making those minor, break-in adjustments, but this thing is spectacular. Stiff and plush. A truly great combination. Looking forward to hitting the hills of southern Indiana and the Mountains of Tennessee in the near future. I test rode the Expert and really felt that I was sitting "in" the bike. I was expecting the same thing with the Pro version, but I'm not getting that now. I am riding high on top, but it is a comfortable position, especially when down in the drops. That cobra-shape top tube contributes to that illusion I'm sure. I'm sure your SL4 will be just as amazing. 


I didn't realize all the previous conversation were going on as my notifications were going to my Spam box instead of my Inbox. Anyway, I do appreciate the questions and comments. I know Roadworthy's intent was to protect the information and content in this thread and the forum. He is a passionate individual when it comes to cycling, I can tell by the questions he's asked me, some of which I never really gave any thought to. But they've all been helpful and appreciable.

I know how valuable these build-up threads are. They've helped me vastly when comparing component combinations, looks, build quality, and determining what I would take on, on my own. I hope more people continue these types of threads are there are always new people just entering the sport looking to educate themselves.


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## Apexhunter (Jan 5, 2012)

Thanks for sharing!


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

TheBarista said:


> Great build! I am a total noob when it comes to building bikes, especially road bikes. My Tarmac SL4 Pro is going to be built up by my local shop hopefully by the end of next week and I cant wait! While waiting, I did get a chance to ride a Roubaix Expert and found it to be super stiff, but super comfy. I am sure you are going to enjoy yours.
> 
> Thanks for sharing the build!
> 
> Greg


Did you get yours built?


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