# Issues with CAAD10 internal brake cable routing?



## filly (Feb 6, 2003)

Thinking about getting this frameset (other post on this forum) on closeout for $599, but I just saw a post on another bike forum about a guy who is having issues with the internally routed rear brake cable that enters the frame from the headtube. Because his stem has no spacers underneath other than the conical headset "spacer," his brake cable goes in at too much of an angle (too much of a bend), and it's causing problems.

I noticed the CAAD12 has the internal brake cable routing coming in at the top tube, so presumably it was a known issue that has now been rectified?

Anyone having this issue? It is about to cause me to pass on the frameset because, I, too, will run zero spacers.


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

filly said:


> Thinking about getting this frameset (other post on this forum) on closeout for $599, but I just saw a post on another bike forum about a guy who is having issues with the internally routed rear brake cable that enters the frame from the headtube. Because his stem has no spacers underneath other than the conical headset "spacer," his brake cable goes in at too much of an angle (too much of a bend), and it's causing problems.
> 
> I noticed the CAAD12 has the internal brake cable routing coming in at the top tube, so presumably it was a known issue that has now been rectified?
> 
> Anyone having this issue? It is about to cause me to pass on the frameset because, I, too, will run zero spacers.


It's fine if the housing that goes from the bars to the headtube is sized correctly... but some housings can work better than others here, some are stiffer than others. If you want to make sure it's not an issue, do as I and the Cannondale-Garmin mechanics do (as did the old Cannondale and Liquigas teams before): add a few Nokon links (or similar alloy link housing) so the cable can bend/twist more easily. 









My stem is quite low, I don't even have the conical spacer and I have no issues. I didn't without the Nokon links but I had some laying around and when I swapped to a much narrower bar, I resized the housings and added the links, it does make it easier to have perfectly neutral steering (no pulling to one side or the other, easier to ride no-handed). I wouldn't skip such a nice frame for a tiny detail like that...


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## Bluechip (Feb 19, 2004)

I would imagine there are several ways to make it work. Adjusting things like cable length, how far from the stem the bars are wrapped and from where the cable exits the bars can make subtle differences.


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## filly (Feb 6, 2003)

Thanks so much for this bit of info...never thought of the Nokon route. I have no experience with these housings, so you're saying you can add a few links to the end of a standard cable? Is that bare aluminum piece in the picture the "connection link?" Of course, if a couple of sections work, then obviously a full length Nokon brake cable will be ideal, I assume. Thanks for this fix!


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

filly said:


> Thanks so much for this bit of info...never thought of the Nokon route. I have no experience with these housings, so you're saying you can add a few links to the end of a standard cable? Is that bare aluminum piece in the picture the "connection link?" Of course, if a couple of sections work, then obviously a full length Nokon brake cable will be ideal, I assume. Thanks for this fix!


Yes, the silver section is a 'female-female' housing ferrule... But yes, you can go full Nokon or Alligator or Jagwire Elite Link... It's not a must, but it makes it easier.


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## shanehill (Dec 30, 2013)

I have a slammed CAAD10. No issues with the cable entry.


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## filly (Feb 6, 2003)

shane, on another note, what did you do about no barrel adjuster for the front derailleur? or did you just set and readjust after initial cable stretch?


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