# Peugeot Record Du Monde Sport?



## OneGear

Hi guys, I'm relatively new to road biking, but I lost my commuter to thieves and needed a new cheap bike. So I hit a sale on Campus that sold old bikes and I found this Peugeot Record Du Monde 'Sport'. It's in pretty decent condition I'd say, there's spots of rusting on the black frame and chrome bars, the Peugeot brakes will work with some tuning, and the crankshaft looks intact. The deraillers are simplex and the brake levers are Weinmann's. They are downtube shifters and seems to be in decent shape despite its sorry state. I've looked this bike up and I'm pretty sure its not a PX10 and therefore not worth any serious investment but I do need to a commuter still and i'm hoping to fix it up to the task.

I have several questions, pictures to help are attached below

1: I bought it without a seatpost, I heard that the french are funny with their seatposts, where could I get one of these cheaply or is it standard sized?

2. Does anyone know what model or year this bike is? is it worth more than 10$?

3. I plan to strip down the frame to clean it and maybe shine up the rusty parts. How do I treat the rusty spots? 

4. Is there anythign I need to know about the tires and tubing? they are 27 something, would a 700x27cc tube be ample?

I appreciate any help or suggestions, I'm quite excited about restoring this bike, even though it may not be worth much or the time. This will be my first restoration project and I'd love the help with it.

pic link https://www.boomspeed.com/turin/IMG_4083.jpg
high res


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## bobj

Several answers.
1. Take it to the bike shop and have them check the sseatpost size. If they don't have one in stock they should be able to order one, even if it is a funny size.

2. Don't know the model or year, but by the looks and componentry I would guess it is from the late '70s, and probably sold for ~$200. It would be worth more than $10 today with a seat and post!

3. Steel wool works wonders on bikes from that era.

4. 27 x 1 1/4 tires came stock. You can fit 1 1/8. Tubes stretch a lot, so 700 x 27 should work. 700c wheels will fit with a minor brake adjustment. My first "good" bike was a $200 Rampar from the same era, which became a real rocket when I put on a used set of Sew-ups with Campy hubs! 

Good luck!


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> Hi guys, I'm relatively new to road biking, but I lost my commuter to thieves and needed a new cheap bike. So I hit a sale on Campus that sold old bikes and I found this Peugeot Record Du Monde 'Sport'. It's in pretty decent condition I'd say, there's spots of rusting on the black frame and chrome bars, the Peugeot brakes will work with some tuning, and the crankshaft looks intact. The deraillers are simplex and the brake levers are Weinmann's. They are downtube shifters and seems to be in decent shape despite its sorry state. I've looked this bike up and I'm pretty sure its not a PX10 and therefore not worth any serious investment but I do need to a commuter still and i'm hoping to fix it up to the task.
> 
> I have several questions, pictures to help are attached below
> 
> 1: I bought it without a seatpost, I heard that the french are funny with their seatposts, where could I get one of these cheaply or is it standard sized?
> 
> 2. Does anyone know what model or year this bike is? is it worth more than 10$?
> 
> 3. I plan to strip down the frame to clean it and maybe shine up the rusty parts. How do I treat the rusty spots?
> 
> 4. Is there anythign I need to know about the tires and tubing? they are 27 something, would a 700x27cc tube be ample?
> 
> I appreciate any help or suggestions, I'm quite excited about restoring this bike, even though it may not be worth much or the time. This will be my first restoration project and I'd love the help with it.
> 
> pic link https://www.boomspeed.com/turin/IMG_4083.jpg
> high res



Fun project, but beware! Restoring Peugeots generally takes a bit more effort than Japanese bikes of the same era. They often have small diameter seat tubes, so they need special front derailleur clamps. Bottom brackets are frequently French-threaded. Rear derailleur hangers are not standard size.

See www.harriscyclery.com for a good selection of French parts.

Answers to questions:

1. Have a bike shop, or a friend with calipers, measure the seat post. Use the metric measurement when looking for a new one.

2. Not a good clue, but from your description of the components, I would guess that it is probably mid-70s through mid-80s construction. Post pics and I will have a much better guess. Are the cranks cottered? Any tubing stickers? 

Is it worth anything? Well, you mentioned chromed handlebars, which is a pretty good indicator that the bike is worth roughly squat, which is about the best anti-theft insurance you can get.

3. When you say "strip down" the frame, do you mean strip all the paint? If so, use a wire wheel on the rusty parts to get rid of the rust. I also like Rustoleum primer; it's pretty good insurance against small rust spots getting bigger. A really bad looking rattle-can paint job is another good form of anti-theft insurance.

If you are not going to strip the paint, try some "Naval Jelly" on the rust spots. You can get it at any hardware store, and it does a pretty good job getting rid of rust. Use a wire brush before and after applying the naval jelly.

4. 700C tubes work fine on 27" wheels. Just make sure the diameter matches the tire diameter.

Sounds like a great project. Have fun with it.

Yours,

- FBB


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## OneGear

bobj said:


> Several answers.
> 1. Take it to the bike shop and have them check the sseatpost size. If they don't have one in stock they should be able to order one, even if it is a funny size.
> 
> 2. Don't know the model or year, but by the looks and componentry I would guess it is from the late '70s, and probably sold for ~$200. It would be worth more than $10 today with a seat and post!
> 
> 3. Steel wool works wonders on bikes from that era.
> 
> 4. 27 x 1 1/4 tires came stock. You can fit 1 1/8. Tubes stretch a lot, so 700 x 27 should work. 700c wheels will fit with a minor brake adjustment. My first "good" bike was a $200 Rampar from the same era, which became a real rocket when I put on a used set of Sew-ups with Campy hubs!
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks Bobj! I'm looking forward to fixing it up.. I'm not a particular fan of French things but something about it came through to me in that dark storageroom. Your advice and opinion is very much appreciated. Luckily the wheels hold air well still, I put in around 60 psi and they are holding. however the tire walls will give up, they've become brittle. I'm not going to change the wheelset so I guess I'll have to buy 27 1/4 tires for them, will that be hard to find?



fbagatelleblack said:


> Fun project, but beware! Restoring Peugeots generally takes a bit more effort than Japanese bikes of the same era. They often have small diameter seat tubes, so they need special front derailleur clamps. Bottom brackets are frequently French-threaded. Rear derailleur hangers are not standard size.
> 
> See www.harriscyclery.com for a good selection of French parts.
> 
> Answers to questions:
> 
> 1. Have a bike shop, or a friend with calipers, measure the seat post. Use the metric measurement when looking for a new one.
> 
> 2. Not a good clue, but from your description of the components, I would guess that it is probably mid-70s through mid-80s construction. Post pics and I will have a much better guess. Are the cranks cottered? Any tubing stickers?
> 
> Is it worth anything? Well, you mentioned chromed handlebars, which is a pretty good indicator that the bike is worth roughly squat, which is about the best anti-theft insurance you can get.
> 
> 3. When you say "strip down" the frame, do you mean strip all the paint? If so, use a wire wheel on the rusty parts to get rid of the rust. I also like Rustoleum primer; it's pretty good insurance against small rust spots getting bigger. A really bad looking rattle-can paint job is another good form of anti-theft insurance.
> 
> If you are not going to strip the paint, try some "Naval Jelly" on the rust spots. You can get it at any hardware store, and it does a pretty good job getting rid of rust. Use a wire brush before and after applying the naval jelly.
> 
> 4. 700C tubes work fine on 27" wheels. Just make sure the diameter matches the tire diameter.
> 
> Sounds like a great project. Have fun with it.
> 
> Yours,
> 
> - FBB


Hi FBB, thanks for your time. I've heard about this distinct seatpost diameter, sounds more like a pain in the ass to me. leave it to the french eh? I will be attempting to keep all the original componentry, since thats what makes the bike cool  I'm not too sure about the cotter, but there are tube stickers and I have pictures at home I will upload when I get home. the Crankarms/derailleurs are Peugot, and seem to look easily servicable so It should not be a huge concern. However there is a bit of play between the crankarm and the BB on the non-drive train side. I popped open the base of the crankarm (where it is held to the bb) but there is a large nut within that cannot be gripped by a wrench (it's in a tight spot). I'm worried slightly that the crankarm will give out when i'm riding it. I have not tuned downtube shifters before but I'm sure I can find some good guides on them if there is indeed a difference.

No I meant I would attempt to take off the parts and service the frame, maybe add some touchups with brush or spray can. It looks like standard black but could be dark naval blue, so I hope to match it up.. I like the decals on it and the colour is largely intact. I don't think anyone left it in the rain too much. Thanks for the tips on cleaning the frame up. The insides of the seat tube are somewhat rusted, should I do something to it to prevent further rusting or just leave it? 

I'm can't wait to get started. Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to get pictures up sometime tonight.


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> The insides of the seat tube are somewhat rusted, should I do something to it to prevent further rusting or just leave it?


Probably not a problem - You've got plenty of material in there. BUT, if you want to be sure, I've heard about some goop, I think it's caleed "Framesaver" or something like that. You can coat the inside of your tubes with it to inhibit rust.

- FBB


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## OneGear

OneGear said:


> However there is a bit of play between the crankarm and the BB on the non-drive train side. I popped open the base of the crankarm (where it is held to the bb) but there is a large nut within that cannot be gripped by a wrench (it's in a tight spot). I'm worried slightly that the crankarm will give out when i'm riding it. .


FBB what do you think about this?


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> However there is a bit of play between the crankarm and the BB on the non-drive train side. I popped open the base of the crankarm (where it is held to the bb) but there is a large nut within that cannot be gripped by a wrench (it's in a tight spot). I'm worried slightly that the crankarm will give out when i'm riding it.


You are right to be worried. If the play is truly between the BB spindle and the crankarm, the crankarm is probably toast. The tapered section of the square hole in the crankarm where it meets the spindle is probably deformed. If this is the case, you will need a new left crankarm.

Can you tighten it up with a socket wrench? If you get it good and tight with a socket wrench, and it comes loose again, then you know it's time for a new crankarm.

- FBB


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## OneGear

fbagatelleblack said:


> You are right to be worried. If the play is truly between the BB spindle and the crankarm, the crankarm is probably toast. The tapered section of the square hole in the crankarm where it meets the spindle is probably deformed. If this is the case, you will need a new left crankarm.
> 
> Can you tighten it up with a socket wrench? If you get it good and tight with a socket wrench, and it comes loose again, then you know it's time for a new crankarm.
> 
> - FBB


The label says Peugeot Made in Canada Tubing 103

Yeah, I think it's toast too. Too bad. I woulda liked to keep the set intact.

I've attached some pics here

sorry for the super blur! hehe


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> The label says Peugeot Made in Canada Tubing 103


Wow! I've never seen that before! This one might be worth a post on the ClassicRendevous list at bikelist.org, but be prepared for some snobbish comments about how your bike is not worth much if you post there.

From the components in the photos, I'd narrow my age estimate to 1981-1985, but I am no expert on Simplex stuff.

Yours

- FBB


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## OneGear

Yeah, I think it's something special, to me anyways. I think it's got a bit of history to it, it's also got the LBS's sticker from Downtown toronto. but I think they do not exist in the same form anymore. I think i'll give the bikelist.org a try... there are always bike snobs, hopefully i can make them cough up more info.


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> Yeah, I think it's something special, to me anyways. I think it's got a bit of history to it, it's also got the LBS's sticker from Downtown toronto. but I think they do not exist in the same form anymore. I think i'll give the bikelist.org a try... there are always bike snobs, hopefully i can make them cough up more info.


Oh, Canada! That explains why I never saw that tubing before...

- FBB


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## OneGear

yeah. I found a serial number but no model number. Further Peugeot readings lead me to believe that this is a late 80's Peugeot, made after the rights were acquired by CCM of Canada. Which would explain why traditional French convention wasn't really used in the stamping of this bike. I don't think this bike's gonna be a gem but it'll be ridable.


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## fbagatelleblack

OneGear said:


> I don't think this bike's gonna be a gem but it'll be ridable.


I think you could build a pretty gemmy commuter out of it, but my definition of gem differs from most other people's.

Just have fun with it.

- FBB


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## OneGear

a fellow at bikeforum named the model UO-6 1981. I found more on google, detailing the bike http://www.geocities.com/randyjawa/Peugeotdifferences.html a fellow whose website is dedicated to canadian bikes. thanks for all the help FBB.


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## fbagatelleblack

*Sweet Canadian Peugeot Resto-Mod at Cyclofiend.com*

It's posted in the "Current Classics" section:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc146-bradreindeau0806.html

Now THAT looks pretty gemmy to me. Maybe it can serve as inspiration for your efforts

- FBB


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## OneGear

its very very nice. i'm going to start restoring it this week, first on the agenda is a full disassembly and scrub down.


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## Dave_Stohler

Hate to tell you this, but what you've got there is a $20 bike, tops. And one with oddball threads as well. Fixing it up will cost more than it's worth.


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## fbagatelleblack

Dave_Stohler said:


> Hate to tell you this, but what you've got there is a $20 bike, tops. And one with oddball threads as well. Fixing it up will cost more than it's worth.


Pay no attention to the curmudgeon!!! You've got a groovy bike there, and everyone knows it'll never be worth a fortune, but it's going to be a fun project anyway!

- FBB


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## OneGear

Dave_Stohler said:


> Hate to tell you this, but what you've got there is a $20 bike, tops. And one with oddball threads as well. Fixing it up will cost more than it's worth.


Thats alright, I kinda figured that out. There are a lot more things out there that arent' worth the money but still people put time and sweat into them. I don't plan on replacing any parts so it's not going to cause me much change. I just got some new bar tape for it and found an old saddle for it. I don't intend on selling it so money isn't really a big deal here. The joy is just making something mistreated into something beautiful. Thanks for your opinion though.


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## KenS

*Tighten that cottered crank!*



> I will be attempting to keep all the original componentry, since thats what makes the bike cool  I'm not too sure about the cotter, but there are tube stickers and I have pictures at home I will upload when I get home. the Crankarms/derailleurs are Peugot, and seem to look easily servicable so It should not be a huge concern. However there is a bit of play between the crankarm and the BB on the non-drive train side. I popped open the base of the crankarm (where it is held to the bb) but there is a large nut within that cannot be gripped by a wrench (it's in a tight spot). I'm worried slightly that the crankarm will give out when i'm riding it. I have not tuned downtube shifters before but I'm sure I can find some good guides on them if there is indeed a difference.


The major issue is to tighten that cottered crank. Otherwise you will grind out the crank arm. That is an immediate repair.

Ken


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## OneGear

how do I do this?


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## fbagatelleblack

KenS said:


> The major issue is to tighten that cottered crank. Otherwise you will grind out the crank arm. That is an immediate repair.
> 
> Ken


Crank is not cottered (see photos), but should be tightened none-the-less,

- FBB


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## Dave_Stohler

KenS said:


> The major issue is to tighten that cottered crank. Otherwise you will grind out the crank arm. That is an immediate repair.
> 
> Ken


Another "expert", I see.......


So, Mr. Know-it-all, could you please show the audience just *where* the cotter pins are on that crank??? Hmmm???


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## Dave_Stohler

Here's the low-down on your bike:

Peugeot tubing = cheap seamed un-butted tubing. Heavy and inexpensive. Good peugeots usually had Reynolds tubing back then.

Simplex = low-end derailleurs.

Big metal spoke protector = lower-end bike of 70's vintage.

Canadian frame probably means you will have english threaded BB, but not guaranteed. If you have a french threaded BB, expect a new/old one to cost the better part of $100, and other bearing parts to cost a lot as well.

For $20, you got a $20 bike. Treat it as you would any other $20 bike.


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## OneGear

i wonder if you even read what i posted, and my reply to your original belittling of my bike. your custom title is well deserved.


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## fbagatelleblack

Dave_Stohler said:


> For $20, you got a $20 bike. Treat it as you would any other $20 bike.


Good point! Here is my last $20 bike, which I always treat like the groovy machine that it is:

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc122-forbesbagatelleb0506.html

Well, okay... It was a $20 frame (gas pipe). I spent about $200 on everything else used in the build. I had lot of fun building it, and it is a fantastic bike for getting around town doing errands, much like that Peugeot is likely to be.

A $20 bike is what you make of it. If you love it, it will love you back. If you scorn it, hell hat no fury...

Yours,

- FBB


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## Dave_Stohler

fbagatelleblack said:


> Well, okay... It was a $20 frame (gas pipe). I spent about $200 on everything else used in the build. I had lot of fun building it, and it is a fantastic bike for getting around town doing errands, much like that Peugeot is likely to be.
> 
> A $20 bike is what you make of it. If you love it, it will love you back. If you scorn it, hell hat no fury...


Exactly. I spent probaly $300 once building a decent fixie on a middling Tange 100 frame (butted on the triangle, but not on the stays). In the end, I probably had a bike worth......$300, if that. I certainly wouldn't have bothered "restoring" such a frame.

You see, there are thousands of people who think that every squeaky old Peugeot, Raleigh, Motobecane and Fuji is special, when in reality, few of them are, and most are just plain [email protected]


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## fbagatelleblack

Dave_Stohler said:
 

> You see, there are thousands of people who think that every squeaky old Peugeot, Raleigh, Motobecane and Fuji is special, when in reality, few of them are, and most are just plain [email protected]


Yet, clearly, the OP understands he does not have a collectors' item. He knows what he has got, and he likes it. In the end he will have a fine, rugged commuter (especially if he replaces the Simplex derailleurs with the $10 SRAM specials from Nashbar . It certainly won't be [email protected]

And, BTW, neither are the old Japanese lugged Fujis. Granted, I get them because they are one of the few bikes that fit me, but the ones I have built, Valite, gaspipe or whatever, have been well made and very sturdy.

- FBB


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## OneGear

*fixed up a bit*

here she is again, i've taken the past 10 or so days to strip her down, clean the parts, replace a front derailleur and spray paint her.

the parts are all original except the Shimano 105 front d that i had lying around. the original piece was cracked and unusable. I took her out for a bit of a spin today and she is a smooth ride but a little big on me. It also didnt' help that the seat i poached is a bit too small, but it's my errand bike so no big deal. the rear wheel needs a slight truing but the gears shift quite well, i used the original cables too, just cleaned them up a bit. the grip tape i did replace, it cost as much as the bike and seems good for it's purpose. the only thing that was *****ing was the fact that the paint i bought was not gloss paint so there is a difference between the original decals surrounding paint and the rest of the frame. theres not much i can do about it now but i wasn't going to spend overly on this project.

so, in total i probably spent 15-20 hours on this, sanding and cleaning rust, then painting and reassembling.

Can of Spray : $7CDN
Tape : $3 CDN
Bike itself: $3.24CDN

according to some i'd be $6.76CDN in the red nor does it ride like a PX10 but i'm content with that.


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## fbagatelleblack

Cool! The large size and imperfect paint will help deter thieves.

- FBB


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## Anita Spankin

*Similiar Bike*

I picked up a bike that looks the same only it has Stem Shifters and the "sport" sticker is closer to the seat.


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## Dave_Stohler

In France, a bike such as this would be called "Une piece du merde".


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## Anita Spankin

Funny, thats what I say about France.


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## moschika

now u just need to wrap one of these around the seatpost for affect. though i would only recommend using it incase of emergency.


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