# Freewheel cassette hub to fixie?



## donkekus (Oct 13, 2002)

Anyone mess with an older hub that took a 6,7 or 8 spd screw on freewheel cassette and turn it into a fixie?

If so, what is need to do this? I have an older Aerospoke wheelset. THANKS...


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## Jamieshankland (Jan 8, 2005)

My first fixie build had a normal thread on type hub. You will need to strip it down, center the flanges and re-space it accordingly. The issue is you wont have enough room for a loc-ring. Sometimes the locring from a BSA BB will fit but only by 1 or 2 threads. And ripping the locring off on a ride sucks large.


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## firefox (Jan 31, 2005)

Jamieshankland said:


> My first fixie build had a normal thread on type hub. You will need to strip it down, center the flanges and re-space it accordingly. The issue is you wont have enough room for a loc-ring. Sometimes the locring from a BSA BB will fit but only by 1 or 2 threads. And ripping the locring off on a ride sucks large.


It sounds like he's talking about a cassette hub... so this may not help.

Dependent on what your cassette body the Aerospoke wheel uses, you could potentially use a Surly Fixxer. But, judging by this, you probably won't be able to convert it to a fixie. The Surly Fixxer is only compatible with Shimano type cassette bodies (with a few exceptions).

Hope this helps.

(ff)


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

firefox said:


> He's talking about a cassette hub... so this won't help.
> 
> 
> 
> (ff)


I don't think he knows what he is talking about... I assumed he was referring to a thread-on freewheel, since he used the word screw-on freewheel... but then he had to throw the word cassette in there... so it is anybody's guess.

Frankly, (if it does take a thread-on freewheel) I'd just use loctite and avoid using a BB locring- AND ride with a front brake. I have a few of these so-called suicide hubs and for the life of me, I cannot get the cogs OFF- they work just fine. 

You can't exactly redish an aerospoke wheel- so you might have some minor chainline problems... 

When you get around to it, you'll want to build a proper track wheel and respace it if you need to.


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## firefox (Jan 31, 2005)

filtersweep said:


> I don't think he knows what he is talking about... I assumed he was referring to a thread-on freewheel, since he used the word screw-on freewheel... but then he had to throw the word cassette in there... so it is anybody's guess.
> 
> Frankly, (if it does take a thread-on freewheel) I'd just use loctite and avoid using a BB locring- AND ride with a front brake. I have a few of these so-called suicide hubs and for the life of me, I cannot get the cogs OFF- they work just fine.
> 
> ...


Good catch! Thanks.

(ff)


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## ukiahb (Jan 26, 2003)

*if you mean a cassette type hub.....*

and the freehub body is removeable, you can weld the backside of the freehub body so it no longer freewheels and use a single BMX cassette cog with a bunch of spacers. Set one bike up this way and it works fine. It is easy to get the chainline right be rearranging the spacers. I also ground the welds flat and level so the freehub body would seat properly against the hub.
The bike looks like this....




donkekus said:


> Anyone mess with an older hub that took a 6,7 or 8 spd screw on freewheel cassette and turn it into a fixie?
> 
> If so, what is need to do this? I have an older Aerospoke wheelset. THANKS...


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## donkekus (Oct 13, 2002)

OK, so I might have confused y'all...

It is a hub for a multi speed freewheel. I said cassette because I wanted to make sure people knew I wasn't talking about a ss wheel. So "cassette" refers to just the newer multi speed rings that slide onto a splined hub?

I was thinking about just threading a cog onto the part where the freewheel is supposed to go, but starting thinking that would be a funky chainline. But, I'm trying to figure out if it would be *too* funky... Looked like if it were straight it would intersect a coupla mm out from the bb shell. Don't have any cranks installed to check. It might be doable. Once I get some cranks on and a the freewheel off I will post some pics and try to figure all of this out.

I can always return the rear wheel for a new regular 9spd hubbed version (re: $150), but there goes my "easy" fixie solution It would then equal single speed.


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

Try it. You might need a shorter BB spindle, but it might work. sounds like you don't need a perfect set up anyway, and I think there is more room for forgiveness with chainline than some people would have you believe- when you consider the amount of cross chaining people use with deraileurs.

I'm guessing it is likely to work, since I don't think dish can even be an issue with a wheel that doesn't really have spokes.


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## ukiahb (Jan 26, 2003)

*chainline desn't work the same way for fixed gear.....*

it really does need to be pretty close to right, within a few mm....otherwise you get lots of noise, friction, and a greater chance of dropping the chain, which is dangerous on a fixie. Since respacing the rear hub and redishing is not an option it probably won't be possible to move the crankarm in enough to get the chainline right without running into the chainstay. I'd take some measurements before investing much time or money into the project. Check out http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline/ 







filtersweep said:


> Try it. You might need a shorter BB spindle, but it might work. sounds like you don't need a perfect set up anyway, and I think there is more room for forgiveness with chainline than some people would have you believe- when you consider the amount of cross chaining people use with deraileurs.
> 
> I'm guessing it is likely to work, since I don't think dish can even be an issue with a wheel that doesn't really have spokes.


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

ukiahb said:


> it really does need to be pretty close to right, within a few mm....otherwise you get lots of noise, friction, and a greater chance of dropping the chain, which is dangerous on a fixie. Since respacing the rear hub and redishing is not an option it probably won't be possible to move the crankarm in enough to get the chainline right without running into the chainstay. I'd take some measurements before investing much time or money into the project. Check out http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline/


He's looking for an "easy solution"- I'd argue that it is more about trial and error than getting the slide rule out from the pocket protector. If you really want to get anal about it you can play with some string around your tubes 

Don't you think it is actually more likely it will line up reasonably well since dish is not an issue?


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## ukiahb (Jan 26, 2003)

*not likely.....*

normally on a road bike conversion the cog needs to move out from the bikes centerline and the chainring needs to move in....if the cog can't be moved it all has to be done at the chainring, and there probably won't be enough clearance (for the chainring and/or crankarm) to move it in far enough. The point of taking measurements is not to be anal, but to have a better idea of what needs to happen (and what is possible) to get the chainline right before starting on parts changes. The chainline does NOT need to be perfect, but does need to be close....large errors cause lots of problems and make for a noisy, rough pedalling bike....found that out on my first conversion. Anyway, just trying to pass on what I've learned after building a few fixies....





filtersweep said:


> He's looking for an "easy solution"- I'd argue that it is more about trial and error than getting the slide rule out from the pocket protector. If you really want to get anal about it you can play with some string around your tubes
> 
> Don't you think it is actually more likely it will line up reasonably well since dish is not an issue?


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## Thommy (Sep 23, 2003)

*No to be a smart ass, but*

why don't you just buy a hub, even used? E-Bay, bike swap meets, bike part blowout bin at local bike shop.


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## donkekus (Oct 13, 2002)

Thommy said:


> why don't you just buy a hub, even used? E-Bay, bike swap meets, bike part blowout bin at local bike shop.


Aerospokes hubs are different and unavailable new. However, used they seem to be rarer that alot of the rarest.

I would gladly switch out the hub, either to fixed or regular cassette hub. Any leads?


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