# Syncro II Left Shifter Problem



## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

I did a search for Syncro and saw most of the posts were in this forum (as opposed to the mechanics forum), so I'm posting here.

I cannot get my Syncro II left shifter to work. The right one (8 speed) works perfectly. The left one has absolutely no friction and therefore can't keep the front derailleur on the big ring.

I've attached a photo which I hope shows exactly how I'm assembling it. I haven't found an exploded diagram of my exact shifter online, so I'm hoping some of you can help.

The interface between the lever and the flat brass bushing (G) is really friction free. The interface between the "G" bushing and the lever itself is what creates the channel for the cable. There is no channel for the cable milled into the lever itself like in some versions.

I've installed downtube shifters before, most recently a Dura Ace 9 speed where the left shifter has a strong spring to counteract the spring of the front derailleur. I also installed some shifters I got from Velo Orange DiaCompe shifters which (if I recall correctly) used a combination of ratcheting and friction to keep the derailleur on the big ring.

Thanks for any help you can give. I'm hoping it's just a dumb mistake.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

I have a Syncro II setup which I can look at later.

The 2 domed washers should have their concave sides together to form a spring. Were yours on that way?


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

bikerjulio said:


> The 2 domed washers should have their concave sides together to form a spring. Were yours on that way?


From his picture it looks like he had the domed washers facing the same direction, which could be (part of) the problem.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Yes, I had the thin concave washers nesting together. I was actually looking at them and wondering if the reason they were concave like that was to create a spring. It is kind of springy-looking steel, compared to a plain old washer.

So it's the concave sides that should be facing, not the convex?

I have also been wondering if there is something preventing the adjustment screw from pushing everything together tight enough to create friction. I'll work on that too. 

It seems to me that I recall when I installed those DiaCompe ENE shifters (From Velo Orange) a couple of years ago, I had to put a spacer (i.e. washer) between the frame and part H to push everything outward so the adjustment screw could apply enough pressure without bottoming out. It was the same frame, so that might be exactly it, maybe a little idiosyncrasy of this frame's bosses.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

My left side is different because I don't have nearly as many parts as that.

I have "B" one "C" and no "D". Rest as pic.

Perhaps try that. Mine works nicely.

edit

scanning through some images it now looks like I do have Syncro 2, and that it's OP's that is an earlier version.

There are 2 version of the left lever shape - one cut away inner side and one not.

Here's what mine look like. Spot the difference?


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

bikerjulio - does your lever look the same? I've seen photos of Syncro II left levers that had the cable attachment more centered, and a cable channel completely milled more towards midline of the lever body. This one, as you can see, has the cable channel milled at the inner edge of the lever body.

[edit ] I see he posted a photo of his shifters, which are the different type I've seen.

For what it's worth, they're both Syncro II - because I've seen unexploded photos of my type labeled as Syncro II too.

Mine have curved levers, and the cable adjuster on the right one, which might also be a way to place them on the confusing Syncro timeline.

This web site shows both versions The last gasps of Syncro ~ tears for gears

And a photo of the version which looks like mine (but all the parts aren't visible)


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Mine's the same as the image I posted.

Yours looks to be this which was a later version


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

The funny thing is that I have the Syncro instruction booklet, which only details the right shifter assembly. The left must have been deemed so simple that no instructions were necessary!


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Back in forth crossing through cyberspace! Thanks for the info.

I'm now (not NOT as earlier typed) really thinking that I just have to find a good spacer to put between the frame and part H (the stop is what I'd call it) to push everything outwards. I think the adjustment screw is just bottoming out.

As for the simplicity of the left shifter and no need for instructions - yes, pretty much true. I do remember that I figured out that interference/lack of friction problem with the other shifters on my own, and the order of the parts on this one is pretty obvious (except for the alignment of the little domed "spring washers" which is still up for discussion). But some instructions would be nice. Not to Campy bash, but it's pretty easy to find actual tech documents going way back for Shimano products. 

BUT!! if anyone else has any ideas, for instance, better ideas on how to prevent the adjuster screw from bottoming out, please keep them coming. This could be a good reference for posterity, like all the posts I've made recently trying to learn about Campy stuff. It's fun.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Just put a washer on the screw before insertion. If you are correct that's all you need to do.

I'd have to do a catalog search but the "C Record" shifters went through at least 3 iterations. 1st style had a second lever to revert to friction mode. Then yours with the cable adjuster on the shifter (this was before RD's came with adjusters), then the final generation that I show as Syncro 2.

I'm off to do a catalog search.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

No, I've finally figured out the year for OP's - 1992-93, which makes them a year or more newer than mine, and the last iteration of their Syncro 2 downtube shifters. 

So, to recap what I have learned.

Syncro 2 was a major improvement over the 1st gen Syncro shifters. Syncro 2 has 2 generations - 89-91 which mine are, set up as 7 speed and they work very well. 2nd gen are like OP's came out in '92 and were included in the line for a while, overlapping with Ergopower. It looks to me like they redesigned the left shifter, and apart from the cable adjuster, left the right one as before. Not sure why they bothered with the left redesign as mine works just fine. Perhaps they were more prone to loosen, and I don't shift the front that much and haven't noticed.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Found it! Once I knew the year it was easier. So, my guess about the discs was correct.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Very, very thank you! 

Man, I must have surfed the web for 30 or more minutes last night just to find that exploded view, and if I had, I wonder if I'd have even noticed the subtlety of the SL-RE015 concave-concave configuration. 

I am pretty confident that if I put a spacer between the frame and SL-RE004 or between SL-RE004 and SL-RE017 it will push everything outward and allow SL-RE014 to do it's job imparting friction. I'm going to take a look at my shifter boss and see if I can figure out which part of the boss is too long (like I said, now that I'm thinking through this, I believe I had the same problem with some friction shifters a couple of years ago). Maybe a little touch up with a file or dremel will get it into spec.

Thanks again for your effort in helping me.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

This kind of thing brings out the detective in me.

Finally, googled "campagnolo 1994 parts catalog" and it had been archived. They are the best source of detailed info.

If the screw is not tightening enough, I'd be checking for corrosion or debris in the boss. Failing that, either another washer or shortening it, but the washer would confirm that's the problem.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

To close the thread...

I had to put a very thin spacer (the thinnest appropriate sized washer I had in my box o' washers) between G and H in my parts photo above. The square part of the frame's boss stands proud of part H by a mm or two, and that little bit prevents friction totally. The thin spacer solved the problem and the shifter works perfectly. I might take the dremel to the boss and cut it down a little, or maybe not.

FWIW: The right / rear shifter is shifting a Campy 8 speed RD (modified with a longer cage for the 50/34 X 11/28 driver train) and a Shimano 8 speed cassette. Although I bought a Shiftmate #1 to adapt the shifting to the cassette, I forgot to install it. On the stand, it appears to shift very nicely - perfectly to my eyes and ears. I'm going to ride the bike tomorrow and see if that holds true. Just a data point in the big Shimano/Campy world.

Thanks for the great assistance, I really appreciate it.

PS: should I start a new thread about how you can't get an Ultra Torque crank tightened if you put the screw in from the wrong (non drive) side, no matter how long a handle you have on the wrench? =8-O. At least I was using a long armed torque wrench to keep things under control, therefore didn't break anything (bitter experience moderates the force I put on things nowadays) 

As Rosanne Rossannadanna would say "If it's not one thing, it's another!" How did I figure this out? I did a web search for "ultra torque crank won't tighten" and, it turns out, I'm not the first one to do that. Seriously guys, I really have done this stuff before!


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