# Inline cable Adjuster front derailleur how to?



## JLLNet (Jul 10, 2013)

My inline FD adjuster kinda came off, the jacket of the cable came a little loose and part of the wire is sticking out, and I don't feel comfortable about it. Maybe it wasn't done right when originally installed at the bike dealer when bought new.

I'm planning on replacing the cable and install the inline cable adjuster; however, I haven't been able to find any instructions on how to go about it.

How is it done, do you buy the cable such as Jagwire and then cut the area where to crimp the inline adjuster, or are there cables already pre-made?


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

JLLNet said:


> My inline FD adjuster kinda came off, the jacket of the cable came a little loose and part of the wire is sticking out, and I don't feel comfortable about it. Maybe it wasn't done right when originally installed at the bike dealer when bought new.
> 
> I'm planning on replacing the cable and install the inline cable adjuster; however, I haven't been able to find any instructions on how to go about it.
> 
> How is it done, do you buy the cable such as Jagwire and then cut the area where to crimp the inline adjuster, or are there cables already pre-made?


The inline adjuster is just that. Inline. Just cut the outer housing where you andt to put it in and whammo. Done. Nothing needs to be done with the inner wire.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

tihsepa said:


> Nothing needs to be done with the inner wire.


Other than pulling the cable out of the housing before you cut it.


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## JLLNet (Jul 10, 2013)

So, no need to cut the cable? I thought that it had to be cut and the two ends be inserted into the coupler thing? So all I do is to run the cable through the inline adjuster, so how does it stay in place? I guess is that a piece of cable jacket must be cut off somehow


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## jjcools (Jun 28, 2011)

The cable sleeve should go all the way to the inline barrel which is what keeps it in place, that and the cable stop.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Remove the inner wire. It might be wise to have a brand new spare wire handy because if you're prone to bad luck, the existing cable end will fray and you'll never get it back in the housing.

Now you can cut the housing. The problem is, if you have to cut away the portion of housing that went wonky on you, then the housing may then be too short. At this point it will probably be easier to replace the housing piece between your cut and the cable stop. So while you're at the shop buying that spare inner wire I suggested, buy a piece of gear housing as well.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

jjcools said:


> The cable sleeve should go all the way to the inline barrel which is what keeps it in place, that and the cable stop.


The adjuster does not go by the cable stop, it is inserted between two pieces of housing. Housing goes in both sides which secures it. The cable passes through. Place it somewhere where it does not rattle against the frame - that will eventually annoy you.

It will look something like this when you're done:


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## jjcools (Jun 28, 2011)

Sorry, I was thinking about the inline barrels that go in just before the cable stop, not the one pictures. My mistake.


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## JLLNet (Jul 10, 2013)

laffeaux said:


> The adjuster does not go by the cable stop, it is inserted between two pieces of housing. Housing goes in both sides which secures it. The cable passes through. Place it somewhere where it does not rattle against the frame - that will eventually annoy you.
> 
> It will look something like this when you're done:


Thats a different looking inline adjuster, but I would love to see a picture in the making, I used to make cable tv cables where you just twist on the end connectors after splicing the cable end, but it seems that with this is different and don't know why there are no any "how to" pictures or video..


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

JLLNet said:


> Thats a different looking inline adjuster, but I would love to see a picture in the making, I used to make cable tv cables where you just twist on the end connectors after splicing the cable end, but it seems that with this is different and don't know why there are no any "how to" pictures or video..


Once you start to install it, it becomes really obvious.

The only trick is to find the best place to put it. I've found:
- putting the adjuster in the middle of a bend in the cable tends to eventually kink the cable and housing
- putting it near the frame makes for annoying tapping sounds

That's how mine ended up near the bar tape. I've used several different brands of adjusters (they're really common on cyclocross bikes which use cantilever brakes). Some brands work better than others - generally the simpler the design the better. The adjuster effectively lengths or shortens the housing when you adjust it. The cable length remains constant, so the changing cable length changes the amount of cable pulled.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

JLLNet said:


> ...and don't know why there are no any "how to" pictures or video..


When you're done it will look like this (the disassembled version):


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## JLLNet (Jul 10, 2013)

laffeaux said:


> When you're done it will look like this (the disassembled version):


I think have a better idea now, so the actual wire is not cut, just the outer cable jacket.

Thanks for the pic !


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Yes, don't cut the wire!

Just as a general thought: Cable adjusters (be that barrel adjusters at the ends or in-line adjusters) simply allow you to lengthen or shorten the housing in relation to an uncut inner wire. If you lengthen the housing, cable tension increases. If you shorten the housing, cable tension decreases.


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## pamt (Sep 8, 2011)

Another factor that sometimes throws folks off is some inline's require a cable ferrule like the Jagwire inline while others like the Shimano CA70 act as a ferrual


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## NWS Alpine (Mar 16, 2012)

Yes make sure to get the proper inline adjusters for your cables. If it's the wrong size then you might not be able to adjust it properly. For example the jagwire pro cables are 4.0mm in solid colors and the braided ones are 4.5mm.


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## illnacord (Feb 25, 2008)

Using the Shimano CA70 inline adjusters. Are these required for the front and rear mandatory - or is there a way to tune the bike before riding. I dont care about adjusting the der. on the fly on a ride. The bike should be tuned before a long ride. Any tips - they just look so bulky. Currently the adjusters are near the headtube, and yes, they are making contact with the plastic protectors on the plastic frame.


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## davcruz (Oct 9, 2007)

If your frame has cable stops on the down tube that are not threaded for an adjuster then you will at least need an inline adjuster for the front derailleur. My Giant TCR Advanced frame is setup like this for whatever reason! Pain in the butt...but that is just the way it is! The rear derailleur has an adjuster built-in to it, but the front does not, so you will need it for initial setup and maintenance.

No threaded stop










Jagwire inline adjuster


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## pamt (Sep 8, 2011)

illnacord said:


> Using the Shimano CA70 inline adjusters. Are these required for the front and rear mandatory - or is there a way to tune the bike before riding. I dont care about adjusting the der. on the fly on a ride. The bike should be tuned before a long ride. Any tips - they just look so bulky. Currently the adjusters are near the headtube, and yes, they are making contact with the plastic protectors on the plastic frame.


 The RD has a barrel adjuster so you will not need an inline there but although the FD can be adjusted via cable tension it will be frustrating and most likely result in your cable being pretty chewed up by the time your done so my advice would be to use an inline on the front


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## illnacord (Feb 25, 2008)

davcruz, very helpful, thanks. Moved the inline adjusters forward hovering in line above the front brake caliper. All the cables were trimmed correctly in length so that the bars were swinging right/left but straight on at rest in the stand. Kept both inline adjusters so the cables were symmetric.


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