# Cleaning Waxed Chains



## mtbnut87 (Sep 14, 2021)

I wax my chain with Wend Products. I use an Ultrasonic Cleaner to clean them. Chains are put in small Ziploc freezer bags covered in cleaner. Water is heated to 50 deg. C. I've been using Simple Green Pro HD at 3:1 in the baggie with the chain.... the thing is, it doesn't seem to clean very well. If I use brake clean in a oil pan it works great, but not drain friendly or cost effective.

What are you guys using to clean your waxed chains??? Especially if you use Wend.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Waxing. What a PITA. Unless you're getting paid to win races, it's not worth the effort.

You need something much more aggressive than simple green. That's a degreaser.






MSPEEDWAX | Molten Speed Wax - How To Clean Your Bicycle Chain Before Hot Waxing


Learn how to clean your bike chain for maximum chain wax longevity and performance. Ask our experts your chain cleaning questions. Purchase chain waxing products.




moltenspeedwax.com




MSPEEDWAX says to use mineral spirits and denatured alcohol 

WEND sells a wax cleaner. 








WEND MF Wax-Off Chain Cleaner







bike.wendperformance.com


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

First off, I don't use wax lubes (or dry lubes as some call them). The myth that they repel dirt couldn't be further from the truth. They turn gummy and nasty. They also don't lube and protect anywhere near as well or for as long as oil based "wet" lubes.

Use some kind of solvent like mineral spirits to clean that [email protected] off. Then lube with an oil based lube. There are many good oil based "wet" lubes available, but they are all no better than a home brew of 50% synthetic motor oil and 50% mineral spirits which is what I use every 500 miles.

The key to keeping your chain clean is to wipe your chain down well after lubing and then wipe it down again after the first ride. There is no practical reason to remove your chain for cleaning. When you lube, the half mineral spirits in the lube acts as a cleaner and gets most of the gunk off. It doesn't need to sparkle. Oh, and I got over 6000 miles out of my last chain.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

tlg said:


> WEND sells a wax cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ahhh yes. When you sell the cause of a problem, there is always money to be made on a solution.


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## mtbnut87 (Sep 14, 2021)

Thanks for the helpful replies. I have used petroleum based "wet" lubes for nearly 40 years. They are not bad for what they are intended. We started riding gravel last year and I clean my chains with a neodymium magnet in the baggie to collect metal particles. I noticed a significant increase in those particles that coincided with our off road adventures. The dust in the gravel was literally lapping chain material away. In addition my drivetrain made some horrible squeaking and rattling sound after an hour or more in dusty conditions. Since switching to wax, there are less particles than when I was riding solely on the road with petroleum based lubes AND my drivetrain is not a noisy/oily mess all the time. I would not go back. I _have _looked at other "dry" products like Smoove and Squirt and those are a possibility.

FWIW, waxing a chain with Wend is not really any more difficult than applying regular chain lube. The video linked above is for cleaning a new chain that comes packed in the factory lubricant. The Wend cleaner is not truly a cleaner. I called them. It's designed for in-between chain maintenance. You rub the chain down with it, it removes some surface wax buildup and is supposed to also penetrate the rollers with a wax based lubricant that has some other additives. Rub some on your fingers and you will see. It's almost impossible to get back off. But it does help with one of the weaknesses of normal wax and that is surface corrosion when riding in the rain.

I will give mineral spirits a try, but it certainly is not my first choice as it presents disposal issues.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

mtbnut87 said:


> In addition my drivetrain made some horrible squeaking and rattling sound after an hour or more in dusty conditions. Since switching to wax, there are less particles than when I was riding solely on the road with petroleum based lubes AND my drivetrain is not a noisy/oily mess all the time. I would not go back.


If your chain was squeaking and rattling in just one hour I believe you weren't using a very good oil based lube.

Given this is Road bike review, I assumed that was your use for wax. Not looking to turn this into a wax vs oil debate. Riding dusty gravel does present issues no matter the lube.
You may want to post on MTBR.com (mountain bike review). You'll get a lot more people riding in your conditions.




> The video linked is for cleaning a new chain that comes packed in the factory lubricant.


Yes, but scroll down on the page. There's instructions: *Steps To Clean A New Or Previously Waxed Chain*


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## mtbnut87 (Sep 14, 2021)

tlg said:


> Given this is Road bike review...


Noted.... To be fair, I DID post in the Gravel section, but I can see why it might not be obvious depending on your entry point to the thread. 

Again, thanks for all the good feedback.

ETA: I clicked on your link. Do you own a 3d Printing shop???


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

I have switched to wax because I have a lot of bikes and the wax lasts longer... if you don't use the bike. I use Xylene/Toluene in a jar followed by pure ethanol in the ultrasonic cleaner to clean, then I rewax. If the chain looks pretty clean I just rewax which I try to do every 300 miles. If I get caught in the rain I rewax immediately, which I did with oil based lubes too.

The biggest drawback to waxing chains is that if you wait too long, the chain will rapidly rust.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

mtbnut87 said:


> Noted.... To be fair, I DID post in the Gravel section


Ahhh you did. But take a look, the Gravel section only gets one or two posts a month. 




> ETA: I clicked on your link. Do you own a 3d Printing shop???


No I don't. It's an online service I use.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

what lubes do moto dirt bikers use? Maybe use those.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> what lubes do moto dirt bikers use? Maybe use those.


Totally different animal. Motorcycle chains have shit tons more load on them. 

My uncle tried this. Sprayed some waxy pasty motorcycle chain lube on his mtb chain. Totally seized it. You could barely bend the links by hand.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

tlg said:


> Totally different animal. Motorcycle chains have shit tons more load on them.
> 
> My uncle tried this. Sprayed some waxy pasty motorcycle chain lube on his mtb chain. Totally seized it. You could barely bend the links by hand.


well sh8t thanks for the reply. I was at a local auto store and was thinking about using some cheap moto chain lube on my mtb chain since my mtb chain does need relubing after every ride (using low viscosity summer lube). But I guess you killed that idea quickly. Maybe I will try high viscosity motor oil.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> well sh8t thanks for the reply. I was at a local auto store and was thinking about using some cheap moto chain lube on my mtb chain since my mtb chain does need relubing after every ride (using low viscosity summer lube). But I guess you killed that idea quickly. Maybe I will try high viscosity motor oil.


Well I wouldn't totally rule it out. But be cautious. This was a wax lube. With an oil lube it'd probably work.

Also, some motorcycle chains are o-ring sealed. So the lubrication requirements are different.


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Not jumping into the wax vs. oil debate (personally, I can't stand wax), but don't SOAK the chain in Simple Green. It's far too caustic, and it will actually etch your bearing surfaces if left on.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

No Time Toulouse said:


> but don't SOAK the chain in Simple Green. It's far too caustic, and it will actually etch your bearing surfaces if left on.


No it's not. It's debunked internet folklore.

*You've repeated this before. *


No Time Toulouse said:


> Also, one piece of advice not yet mentioned: Simple Green is a good cleaner, but do NOT soak the chain for any time longer than a few minutes. It's caustic, and will etch surfaces if left on too long.


And it's simply not true

Perhaps if your chain is made from aluminum. The water/alkaline combination will expedite corrosion.








Simple Green FAQs


Find frequently asked questions and answers about Simple Green, the non-toxic, biodegradable, environmentally safer cleaning product.




simplegreen.com





If your chain is made from aluminum, Simple Green Pro HD Heavy-Duty Cleaner is safe for you to use.

Both regular and HD Simple Green are fine to soak a steel chain for a couple hours. Been doing it for years.


This 'don't soak in simple green' garbage has been going around for years








Yeah...I'm stupid.


I'll tell on myself so no one else has to waste $60. I rode my bike in the rain the other day and it needed a good cleaning. My rear sprocket was quite dirty with lots of grime and dirt on it so I took it to my solvent washer and thoroughly cleaned it. I got a little solvent on the rim/tire...




www.roadbikereview.com


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

No Time Toulouse said:


> Not jumping into the wax vs. oil debate (personally, I can't stand wax), but don't SOAK the chain in Simple Green. It's far too caustic, and it will actually etch your bearing surfaces if left on.


Simple Green is not caustic. It is a household cleaner. If it were caustic, its pH would be high enough to burn you when it came in contact with your skin.

That being said, soaking your chain in Simple Green is great if you are bored and have nothing better to do with your time. In other words, it is totally unnecessary.


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## MDM (Jun 10, 2020)

To remove wax from a chain, use very hot water. Your ultrasonic cleaner isn't getting the solution hot enough. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

I'm going to come out and say it, there are NO chains made out of Aluminium! Maybe for your neck, but I doubt that too!


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

I got a question regarding disposal. What the hell do you guys do with the dirty cleaner???? I mean, I'm hoping you guys just don't dump it down the public sewer, in your trashcan, in your neighbor's backyard, or water the plant with it!
Inquiring mind wants to know


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

duriel said:


> I'm going to come out and say it, there are NO chains made out of Aluminium! Maybe for your neck, but I doubt that too!


Of course not. That would be silly! As silly as worrying about using Simple Green on your steel chain.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

tlg said:


> Of course not. That would be silly! As silly as worrying about using Simple Green on your steel chain.


Which is just as silly as actually removing your chain and soaking it in simple green or anything else for that matter.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

I put electrolytes in mine and put in my bottle.
If your worried about disposal, take it to a waste treatment facility or don't use it.


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## farva (Jun 24, 2005)

I drop all my dirty chains in a shallow tub of "oil eater" (or similar solvent) then strap an old palm sander to side and let it vibrate. Annihilates the dirt stuck between rollers and plates in an expeditious manner. Dump the oily waste into container that goes to auto part store oil recycling.

Not a lot of love for hot waxing chains here, but I'm all for it. I use generic bars of paraffin wax. Inexpensive and effective. Runs super smooth and keeps drivetrain very clean. Crockpot half a dozen of them together and exchange every 300-400 miles. Quick links have made swapping chains a breeze. Trick to hot wax chains is to make sure they are squeaky clean prior to waxing. Then it'll penetrate between rollers / plates properly


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## Grog McCog (Jan 19, 2020)

I've been waxing my chains with melted paraffin for the last few years, and the chains and drive trains last much longer, especially on my gravel bike. We have very dry dusty and sandy conditions where I ride, and a wet lube rapidly becomes a grinding paste. Like the OP, I find wax has greatly improved everything.

To clean it, I wipe off the chain with a paper towel. There is rarely anything significant to wipe off.

That's it.

I rotate chains and reapply melted wax about every 3 weeks to 1 month. I just heat the wax up in a small electric crock pot, dump the chain in, let it reach thermal equilibrium, and swish it around in the molten wax for a few minutes with a screwdriver, which also has the effect of cleaning the chain. Then I pull it out, and hang it up to drip-dry. When it is cool, I put it back on the bike.

The only time I use any solvent is when I am cleaning off the oil that the chain comes packaged in. I probably don't even need to do that, but I prefer to keep it from contaminating the wax.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

farva said:


> I drop all my dirty chains in a shallow tub of "oil eater" (or similar solvent) then strap an old palm sander to side and let it vibrate. Annihilates the dirt stuck between rollers and plates in an expeditious manner. Dump the oily waste into container that goes to auto part store oil recycling.


*Don't do that! *You're not allowed to put solvents into oil recycling. Only oil. When you do that, you contaminate the entire oil barrel making it hazardous waste.









Managing Used Oil: Answers to Frequent Questions for Businesses | US EPA


Information for businesses such as service stations, fleet maintenance facilities, and "quick lube" shops that generate and handle used oil. Includes regulatory requirements for storing oil, preventing and managing spills and leaks, and record keeping.




www.epa.gov




In addition to EPA's used oil management standards, your business may be required to comply with federal and state hazardous waste regulations *if your used oil becomes contaminated from mixing it with hazardous waste. Hazardous waste disposal is a lengthy, costly, and strict regulatory process.* The only way to be sure your used oil does not become contaminated with hazardous waste is to store it separately from all solvents and chemicals and not to mix it with anything.



https://www.autozone.com/diy/motor-oil/how-to-recycle-motor-oil


*Motor oil that's been mixed with other fluids (either accidentally or purposefully) isn't recyclable*, so take care not to let yours mingle with washer fluid, gasoline, or any other liquid (water included). Make sure your storage container has never been used to store other fluids at any point, even if it was a long time ago.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

aclinjury said:


> I got a question regarding disposal. What the hell do you guys do with the dirty cleaner???? I mean, I'm hoping you guys just don't dump it down the public sewer, in your trashcan, in your neighbor's backyard, or water the plant with it!
> Inquiring mind wants to know


Anything petroleum based I decant for reuse. The sediment I let air dry (outside) and then throw away. In 30 years I am now on my second gallon of Toluene / Xylene.


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## Stogaguy (Feb 11, 2006)

Lombard said:


> First off, I don't use wax lubes (or dry lubes as some call them). The myth that they repel dirt couldn't be further from the truth. They turn gummy and nasty. They also don't lube and protect anywhere near as well or for as long as oil based "wet" lubes.
> 
> Use some kind of solvent like mineral spirits to clean that [email protected] off. Then lube with an oil based lube. There are many good oil based "wet" lubes available, but they are all no better than a home brew of 50% synthetic motor oil and 50% mineral spirits which is what I use every 500 miles.
> 
> The key to keeping your chain clean is to wipe your chain down well after lubing and then wipe it down again after the first ride. There is no practical reason to remove your chain for cleaning. When you lube, the half mineral spirits in the lube acts as a cleaner and gets most of the gunk off. It doesn't need to sparkle. Oh, and I got over 6000 miles out of my last chain.


+1 for home brew. My personal mix is 4:1 chainsaw bar oil and mineral spirits (paint thinner). I have read that the bar oil is designed not to "sling" and stays put better than motor oil, but have not seen any empirical data to on this. I apply and wipe every couple of rides, quick and easy. While the chain pretty much stay immaculate on pavement, it get "furry" fast in dusty conditions.

That said, reading this thread because I am considering giving wax lube a try just to see if I am missing something...


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

.... your turning down the wrong road.


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