# Help needed with buying very first bike



## Corsair05 (May 9, 2012)

Hello there!
I want to buy an entry level bike. Under $1000.
Went to a lbs and was offered a GT Series 4 for $839.
I've been browsing online and have liked these bikes:

Trek 1.2
Cannondale CAAD8 7 Sora
Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Sora
Specialized Allez Sport Compact

I plan to visit some more lbs that may carry these bikes to try them out and get measured/fitted properly before buying one.

Any suggestions regarding the bikes listed above?

Thanks in advance!!!


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## Longhair-NL (Mar 31, 2012)

Since it is your first bike, don't get caught up in the Internet trends.

Shimano part families are all good regardless of what others may say about them. The lowest end parts used to be the latest and greatest at one time.

There will always be better selection and deals on the Internet however, you want to be able to ride the bike before trying, Just like a pair of shoes, a size 10 from Nike may fit different than a size 10 from Reebok.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Corsair05 said:


> Hello there!
> I want to buy an entry level bike. Under $1000.
> Went to a lbs and was offered a GT Series 4 for $839.
> I've been browsing online and have liked these bikes:
> ...


The bold statement is (IMO/E) a very good plan. I suggest staying with it.

Re: the bikes you've listed, all are fine choices, but the more you test ride, the better. In your travels to the LBS's, I suggest you check out both relaxed and race geo bikes. Generally speaking, the differences are subtle (slightly more upright riding position, slightly slower - more predictable - handling). As one example, the Specialized Secteur would be the relaxed version of the Spec Allez, but there are others. 

After getting sized/ fitted, head out on the roads for test rides, focusing on fit/ feel, ride and handling. Don't get too hung up on how well a bike shifts, because more times than not that's a minor (and easily remedied) fix. OTOH, fit and how a bike shifts (as in, the method) both _do_ matter. 

If after checking some bikes out you have more questions/ concerns, update this thread and we'll assist. Good luck, and remember, test rides are fun!!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Longhair-NL said:


> Since it is your first bike, don't get caught up in the Internet trends.
> 
> Shimano part families are all good regardless of what others may say about them. The lowest end parts used to be the latest and greatest at one time.
> 
> There will always be better selection and deals on the Internet however, you want to be able to ride the bike before trying, Just like a pair of shoes, a size 10 from Nike may fit different than a size 10 from Reebok.


I think you misunderstood the OP. By "browsing online" I think he meant visiting the websites of the bikes he's listed.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

If it's a 2012 GT series 4, it'll have Microshift brifters, not Sora.One advantage they give you is the ability to make easy shifts from the drops. How durable they are compared to Sora, that I can't tell you. Decent frame. Made in Taiwan, as is the CAAD frame. The Trek and Allez are made in China. If that matters.

On looks alone, I'd pick the Via Nirone. Love the lines on that bike. 

I'm also thinking that $839 is a bit on the high side for the GT. IMO it should be able to be had for under $800. The shop up the road has one in the red/black color scheme with a walk-in price of $799, and it's probably negotiable. I could have picked up a 2010 Bianchi Vigorelli over the winter, that had a walk-in price of $1499, for $1200.


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## Corsair05 (May 9, 2012)

First I want to thank you guys for your help.

I visited a lbs website and they have 3 options I like.

They have a 2011 Trek 1.2 C H2 with the following:
Shifters	Shimano Sora STI, 9 speed 
Front Derailleur	Shimano Sora 
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Tiagra 
Crank	FSA Vero, 50/34 or 50/39/30 
Bottom Bracket	Cartridge type 
Cassette	SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed 

Its listed for $700. I wonder why it is so cheap compared to others Trek 1.2

The other options are a 2012 Cannondale CAAD8 7 Sora for $850 
and a 2012 Cannondale CAAD8 5 105 for $1300.

Is it worth it to pay $450 extra for the Shimano 105 instead of the Shimano Sora?


Thank again for all your help!


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

Corsair05 said:


> First I want to thank you guys for your help.
> 
> I visited a lbs website and they have 3 options I like.
> 
> ...


Split the difference. See if they can get you a CAAD8 6 Tiagra for about $1050-$1100. :thumbsup:

The reason why the Trek is so cheap is because very soon it'll be two years old and the dealer wants it gone.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

PJ352, as usual, has it right. Now that you've narrowed down the field, it's time to do some test riding. Let that guide you from here on out and trust that the bike that feels/rides the best is the bike for you.

The "best" bike for you is the bike you're going to enjoy riding the most.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Corsair05 said:


> First I want to thank you guys for your help.
> 
> I visited a lbs website and they have 3 options I like.
> 
> ...


This being your first bike, I'd say no. Sora will do you (and most other recreational riders) fine. The biggest drawback being the thumb tab is difficult to shift while your hands are positioned in the drops. Considering it's an entry level group targeted for new recreational riders who'll seldom ride in the drops, it's mostly a non-issue. Once set up/ adjusted, the group performs well and is durable, so no worries there. 

That said, don't get too hung up on prices, specs and 'researching'. We don't look at specs sheets and pics of bikes, we_ ride_ bikes, and IME that's the best way for you to determine your preferences and narrow the field. 

So tomorrow, bypass your computer and head out to ride some bikes. :thumbsup:


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## Corsair05 (May 9, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> *This being your first bike, I'd say no. Sora will do you (and most other recreational riders) fine. *The biggest drawback being the thumb tab is difficult to shift while your hands are positioned in the drops. Considering it's an entry level group targeted for new recreational riders who'll seldom ride in the drops, it's mostly a non-issue. Once set up/ adjusted, the group performs well and is durable, so no worries there.
> 
> That said, don't get too hung up on prices, specs and 'researching'. We don't look at specs sheets and pics of bikes, we_ ride_ bikes, and IME that's the best way for you to determine your preferences and narrow the field.
> 
> So tomorrow, bypass your computer and head out to ride some bikes.  :thumbsup:


That being the case, I think I'll be more inclined for the Trek 1.2 C H2. Maybe later on I can upgrade the components to Shimano 105 or Ultegra or just replace the bike altogether. 

I want to try both the Trek 1.2 and Cannondale CAAD8 though...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Corsair05 said:


> That being the case, I think I'll be more inclined for the Trek 1.2 C H2. Maybe later on I can upgrade the components to Shimano 105 or Ultegra or just replace the bike altogether.
> 
> I want to try both the Trek 1.2 and Cannondale CAAD8 though...


If it comes down to two bikers that fit and feel about the same, back to back test rides might help you decide. As a tip, ask that both have tire pressures set the same - and consistent with total rider weight. That way you won't be misled because the bike with lower tire pressures 'rode nicer'.


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## Defy (Apr 22, 2012)

Try to keep an eye open on a 2011 or even a 2010 bike on clearance. There really is no need to pay full retail price. I bought a 2010 Giant Defy Advanced 2 for $1000 less than the list price. I missed the deal on the 2011 Defy Advanced 4 for around $1250. It was via special order only and the LBS priced his in stock item only $50 off of retail. 

It may be a bit late tho since this is the "high season" now.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Corsair05 said:


> Is it worth it to pay $450 extra for the Shimano 105 instead of the Shimano Sora?


IMO yes. Not because you will get any benefit but because it's not a bad price for components 2 levels higher. It would also help with resale value down the road should you decide to sell. Many people won't even look at a Sora or Tiagra bike.



> Maybe later on I can upgrade the components to Shimano 105 or Ultegra or just replace the bike altogether.


I STRONGLY recommend not doing this! Price out now what it costs to upgrade. You may be shocked. New 105 shifters alone will cost over $300. Plus the Sora is 9sp, whereas 105 and Ultegra are 10sp so there will be other upgrades required (cassette, chain, derailleur)
It's always cheaper to get the components new on the bike because the mfg's get bigger discounts than you ever will.
If you really have the upgrade bug and think you're going to have that itch down the road, bite the bullet now. You'll save a LOT of money.
A 105 build kit is about $1000. Ultegra about $1500. Sora about $350.


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## Loogs (May 3, 2012)

i would go with the specialized out of those choices. i did


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Corsair05 said:


> Is it worth it to pay $450 extra for the Shimano 105 instead of the Shimano Sora?





tlg said:


> IMO yes. Not because you will get any benefit but because it's not a bad price for components 2 levels higher. It would also help with resale value down the road should you decide to sell. Many people won't even look at a Sora or Tiagra bike.


For two reasons, I'd argue this logic. First, if there's no benefit seen (and I agree, performance-wise, there won't be), why spend the extra money? Second, considering that bikes lose about 1/3 of their value on the way out the LBS's door, the higher priced bike is going to take a bigger hit than the entry level bike, possibly cancelling out any gains. 


Corsair05 said:


> Maybe later on I can upgrade the components to Shimano 105 or Ultegra or just replace the bike altogether.





tlg said:


> I STRONGLY recommend not doing this! Price out now what it costs to upgrade. You may be shocked. New 105 shifters alone will cost over $300. Plus the Sora is 9sp, whereas 105 and Ultegra are 10sp so there will be other upgrades required (cassette, chain, derailleur)
> It's always cheaper to get the components new on the bike because the mfg's get bigger discounts than you ever will.
> If you really have the upgrade bug and think you're going to have that itch down the road, bite the bullet now. You'll save a LOT of money.
> A 105 build kit is about $1000. Ultegra about $1500. Sora about $350.


+1 to that! Given the options the OP lists, I'd go with n+1 (a new bike). 
__________________


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## Jlbst49 (Apr 23, 2012)

I just got called that my new bike arrived. Will post a pic when able. 

Got a cannkndale synapse 5 -all shimano 105. Most important thing for me was to test ride everything. I liked the secteur as well. Very comfy ride and I liked the stamp compact gearing and shifters...

Jeff


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## Corsair05 (May 9, 2012)

I ended up with the 2012 Cannondale CAAD8 7 Sora. (I got a very good deal)

This bikes comes without pedals, so I wanted to ask for suggestions on that topic.

The lbs said they could install some free plastic ones to start out, but I think I should start thinking about clipless pedals. Any suggestions? 

Thanks in advance....


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## Defy (Apr 22, 2012)

If you like Shimano SPD-SL pedals, I'd go with the 105s. It's pretty inexpensive at about ~$60 on Amazon. It's the one I bought.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

Corsair05 said:


> I ended up with the 2012 Cannondale CAAD8 7 Sora. (I got a very good deal)
> 
> This bikes comes without pedals, so I wanted to ask for suggestions on that topic.
> 
> ...


All I've ever used are SPD-SL. R-540s and 105s. If you can get 105s for under $70, go with them.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

IMO priority should be given to the type(s) of riding you're planning on doing. Any amount of walking indicates that a MTB shoe (with recessed cleats) might be a good choice. Conversely, minimal need to walk might sway you towards a road shoe. Both types are (IMO) comparable at comparable price ranges, so neither are 'better' by default. 

I would give a slight edge to road pedals with larger platforms (LOOK/ Shimano to name two). They seem to have a better record of preventing hot spots.. assuming proper cleat setup.


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## cmeride (May 3, 2012)

Why dont you try craigslist and buy a used one (2-3) yrs old..you get more bang for your buck..


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