# Road bikes around $1300ish



## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi all,

I found this thread/forum as I am trying to get more information on buying a new road bike and this has been extremely helpful! 

I had a couple of questions specific to my situation that I'm hoping yall could shed some light on. It seems like some additional information beyond just the bikes is helpful, so I am 5' 7" 140lbs.. I usually do 2-3 20-30 mile rides a week, and I'd like to start doing longer rides as time/weather permits (last fall I did a 50, but thats the longest). I signed up for a Sprint Triathlon this summer, so I'll at least be doing that, if not other rides. So far I've just been using an old Schwinn, and so I'd like to upgrade to a newer/better fitting bike. I want to get shoes/pedals, and maybe a few other accessories (although I already have some basic shorts and a jersey). So I'd like to keep the total cost of everything closer to $1,000 rather than $2,000.

The bikes and prices are:
'11 54cm Specialized Secteur Elite Apex - $1,199
'12 54cm Cannondale Synapse Alloy 105s - $1,350
'12 54cm Felt z85 - $1,199

As I am a relatively new rider (and riding each bike for only 20 minutes, if that), they all feel relatively similar to me. The Cannondale dealer recommended the synapse over other bikes (not the other two specifically though), because the frame had more technology than other 'standard' frames. I think he was mainly referring to the SAVE technology so the seat stay functions more like a carbon seat stay, but also keeps the cost in the same range as other bikes that do not have a carbon seat stay. What do you all think of this?

I also was curious about how much the bike shop itself should play into the purchase decision. If I were to rank the bikes, I'd go Felt, C'Dale, Specialized at this point.. although they are all extremely close. It seems to be more trade-offs than anything else as they all have different pros/cons. But based on bike shop, it'd be the opposite order. The Specialized shop I trust and have family friends that have all bought from them and have fantastic things to say about them over the years (they also have the most intensive fitting/technology, but its an additional $200). The C'Dale shop is also very reputable. The Felt dealer is ok.. not that they are bad, but they don't stand out as great either (as far as customer service goes when shopping, I have no idea about fitting, etc..). Any additional comments/advice would be much appreciated! Or if there are other things I should consider but haven't thought of.. thanks for the help!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Eng4G3 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I found this thread/forum as I am trying to get more information on buying a new road bike and this has been extremely helpful!
> 
> ...


I think you're going about this in exactly the right way. Meaning, you're shopping (and assessing) shops as you shop for bikes.

I'm open to being mistaken, but I think the C'dale saleman is blowing smoke re: the technology being superior on the Synapse. If you're unsure, ask him to _detail_ just what it is about the technology that differentiates it from other state of the art alu frames now offered by Felt and Specialized (among others).

In an ideal world you'd find your preferred bike at the preferred shop, but (as you've experienced), it doesn't always pan out that way. IMO fit goes a long way in determining (long term) how happy a cyclist will be riding their bike, so the shop emphasizing fit would go a notch up on my list. 

I didn't quite follow that the Spec dealer would cost more, because you have the C'dale listed $150 more than the Specialized, unless the $200 brings that price $50 higher than the C'dale. Depending on the type of fitting they provide, it might be worth it, but I'd ask for specifics before deciding. Also, that price for the fitting may be negotiable with the purchase of a bike, so if you were to decide on the Secteur, I'd suggest including it as a package deal. 

Lastly, since geometry dictates handling and (to some extent) ride, I think the three bikes having relaxed geometry is the reason they feel similar to you. Although, with one being SRAM equipped and the other two Shimano, I'm a little surprised that you didn't have a preference in shifter function. Most do.

I would suggest going back to the dealers, asking that they equalize tire pressures and test ride all the bikes again (back to back and out on the road) to see if you can whittle the field. Sometimes more time in the saddle exposes us to something either good or not so good about the bikes, but if not, go with the one that has the LBS you prefer, because chances are good that you'll be tapping them as a resource for some time to come. 

HTH...


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## Switchblade906 (Mar 4, 2012)

I have the CAAD 8 105 $1299


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## 1bamafan14 (Jan 24, 2012)

One more bike you might want to try is a Trek 2.1. That is what I ended up with after tryig to choose between about 4 different bikes. I liked the Trek the most because it just felt good to me. The cost for one is around $1350 and it has Sram Apex with a compact double. I really like it. Weight wise it is around 18-19 lbs.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

I think you are looking at this the right way.

Imo a good lbs is more important than the sticker with the brand on the bike. 

Of those I would go with the Secteur for 3 reasons. 1. The lbs. 2. I have one and think it is a very good entry level bike. 3. I prefer Sram to Shimano. 

That's just me though. And part of the reason I have specialized bikes is the local lbs was great. Now those guys opened a new shop selling Giant and Scott. So doing it again today I might by a giant defy.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Oh and the Save technology is probably very similar to the zertz on the Secteur.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Eng4G3 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I found this thread/forum as I am trying to get more information on buying a new road bike and this has been extremely helpful!
> 
> ...


The next question to ask is... what kind of geometry do you really want? The bikes you listed are more for "endurance" rides (ie... longer rides where a little more compliancy doesn't wear you out as much). The aluminum framed race geometry bikes will handle slightly better....

So.. the race equivalent geometry bikes are:
Specialize = Allez
Cannondale = CAAD8
Felt = F85

And they can be a tad cheaper


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> I didn't quite follow that the Spec dealer would cost more, because you have the C'dale listed $150 more than the Specialized, unless the $200 brings that price $50 higher than the C'dale. Depending on the type of fitting they provide, it might be worth it, but I'd ask for specifics before deciding. Also, that price for the fitting may be negotiable with the purchase of a bike, so if you were to decide on the Secteur, I'd suggest including it as a package deal.
> 
> Lastly, since geometry dictates handling and (to some extent) ride, I think the three bikes having relaxed geometry is the reason they feel similar to you. Although, with one being SRAM equipped and the other two Shimano, I'm a little surprised that you didn't have a preference in shifter function. Most do.


Yeah, I just meant that if I paid $200 more for the fitting, then it would put it over the C'dale.. and starting to push the budget. But I'll go back to the shops for another ride and see if I can get some more info on fitting, etc.

I know what you mean as far as shifters go.. the thing is my bike now just has the downtube friction shifters. So either one is going to be an adjustment and take some getting used to, and so I feel like I could get used to either one and it doesn't make THAT big of a different to me at this point. I think I liked the SRAM Apex a little more, just because it felt more precise and snappy, but its not like I didn't like the 105s. I was also thinking it wouldn't be fair to put the Specialized ahead of the others simply because of the SRAM shifters, but that it would be better to buy the bike based on frame and not components.



NJBiker72 said:


> Oh and the Save technology is probably very similar to the zertz on the Secteur.


Actually, this version of the Secteur Elite Comp doesn't have the ZERTZ technology. It looks like on Specialized's website that the '12s do, so maybe '11 was the last year without it? The shop also had the Secteur Comp Compact, which does have ZERTZ and feels similar to the C'dale (I also rode this one). But that bike is really out of my price range as it was $1,499.

Thanks to the other bike recommendations as well, the Felt dealer also has Trek so I'll have to go back and try that.. and I'm assuming the C'dale shop will have some CAAD8's I'll have to try!


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Eng4G3 said:


> Actually, this version of the Secteur Elite Comp doesn't have the ZERTZ technology. It looks like on Specialized's website that the '12s do, so maybe '11 was the last year without it? The shop also had the Secteur Comp Compact, which does have ZERTZ and feels similar to the C'dale (I also rode this one). But that bike is really out of my price range as it was $1,499.
> 
> Thanks to the other bike recommendations as well, the Felt dealer also has Trek so I'll have to go back and try that.. and I'm assuming the C'dale shop will have some CAAD8's I'll have to try!


The Secteur's uses zertz inserts where there are carbon fiber used. ie on the Elite, it would be on the fork.

the comp, with its carbon seat stays, would have zertz inserts.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Eng4G3 said:


> Yeah, I just meant that if I paid $200 more for the fitting, then it would put it over the C'dale.. and starting to push the budget. But I'll go back to the shops for another ride and see if I can get some more info on fitting, etc.
> 
> I know what you mean as far as shifters go.. the thing is my bike now just has the downtube friction shifters. So either one is going to be an adjustment and take some getting used to, and so I feel like I could get used to either one and it doesn't make THAT big of a different to me at this point. I think I liked the SRAM Apex a little more, just because it felt more precise and snappy, but its not like I didn't like the 105s. I was also thinking it wouldn't be fair to put the Specialized ahead of the others simply because of the SRAM shifters, but that it would be better to buy the bike based on frame and not components.


You make some good points re: both current shifter technology and how previous experiences (d/ tube shifters) influence us. I've ridden consistently for decades, but up until '08 only had d/ tube shifters. Now, my 'go to' bikes both have Shimano (which I prefer) but I've also ridden SRAM and could live with that as well.

I'm not trying to sway you because I think you should go with what you prefer, but one thing i want to suggest is to not let less than quick/ crisp shifts alone sway you away from one bike towards another. Once set up and tuned properly, most any group will perform well and IME 105 is near flawless, so something to consider when test riding some other bikes.


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n (Mar 3, 2012)

One of the forum members recommended that you take the bikes out again to test them,

+1

And try out a size smaller and a size larger too ... Try out all riding positions to make sure that you are comfortable in all of them ... take note of the 'effective top tube length' and stem length. Go from there ...

I would recommend you go into this site:
Canyon | Roadbikes | Roadlite 6.0

Click on 'Calculate Framesize' and then 'Adjust to your bodyfit ...' ... gives you an idea on what to look out for ...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

tednugent said:


> The next question to ask is... what kind of geometry do you really want? The bikes you listed are more for "endurance" rides (ie... longer rides where a little more compliancy doesn't wear you out as much). * The aluminum framed race geometry bikes will handle slightly better....*
> 
> So.. the race equivalent geometry bikes are:
> Specialize = Allez
> ...


I think a more accurate statement would be to say that generally speaking, race geometry will handle slightly _quicker_ (than relaxed geo). Whether that's _better_ than a slightly slower handling bike is subjective.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

tednugent said:


> The Secteur's uses zertz inserts where there are carbon fiber used. ie on the Elite, it would be on the fork.
> 
> the comp, with its carbon seat stays, would have zertz inserts.


Ahh, right. I guess I was only thinking about the seat stays. C'dale's SAVE technology is used there as well, so it might have a bit of an edge over the Secteur in that sense?



tednugent said:


> The next question to ask is... what kind of geometry do you really want? The bikes you listed are more for "endurance" rides (ie... longer rides where a little more compliancy doesn't wear you out as much). The aluminum framed race geometry bikes will handle slightly better....
> 
> So.. the race equivalent geometry bikes are:
> Specialize = Allez
> ...


To be honest, I don't really know what kind of geometry I want. Its interesting that all three bike shops pointed me to the relaxed geometry bikes. I don't plan on doing any racing per se, but I am signed up for a tri, and will probably sign up for at least a half-century ride again this year. I'm not sure a century is possible at this point, but I'd like to.. maybe next year. Are the racing bikes designed with century-type distance in mind? The race bikes 'sound' interesting to me, with quicker handling, etc.. but maybe that's not whats best for the riding I am most likely to do? What are your thoughts?



c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n said:


> One of the forum members recommended that you take the bikes out again to test them,
> 
> +1
> 
> ...


This looks like a great site, I'll have to take some measurements and play around with it a little. Thanks!


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## MC357 (Oct 25, 2011)

check out performancebike.com,
they have a coupe of full carbon Fujis with 105 components for around $1300
2011 Fuji SL1 Comp Road Bike
Fuji SL-1-Comp Limited Edition Road Bike


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Test a race and a relaxed geo bike from at least one maker back to back. 

I started with a Secteur and when considering upgrading to carbon a shop recommended I would prefer the super six over the synapse. He was right. But i really ended up preferring the Tarmac. 

You can really ride or race either style. I've done 75 miles on my Tarmac and will do more this year (got it at the end of the year). I like the more aggressive geo even though I do not race.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I'm going to be the contrarian here and offer some thoughts on SAVE, race/ relaxed geo and online calculators.



Eng4G3 said:


> Ahh, right. I guess I was only thinking about the seat stays. C'dale's SAVE technology is used there as well, so it might have a bit of an edge over the Secteur in that sense?


I'm highly skeptical, thus my earlier post suggesting you ask the dealer _what exactly_ makes the C'dale superior to its competition. I'll bet if you cut through the marketing hype, he offers little. Your OP mentioned your leaning towards the Felt, so if you prefer the C'dale after another test ride, consider the placebo effect.



Eng4G3 said:


> To be honest, I don't really know what kind of geometry I want. Its interesting that all three bike shops pointed me to the relaxed geometry bikes. I don't plan on doing any racing per se, but I am signed up for a tri, and will probably sign up for at least a half-century ride again this year. I'm not sure a century is possible at this point, but I'd like to.. maybe next year. Are the racing bikes designed with century-type distance in mind? The race bikes 'sound' interesting to me, with quicker handling, etc.. but maybe that's not whats best for the riding I am most likely to do? *What are your thoughts?*


Assessing the ride/ handling characteristics of a given bike being a highly subjective topic, your asking people to make a decision only you can make. For example, I prefer a Tarmac's handling, calling it 'lively'. Others call it twitchy. I think a Roubaix (or similar) is slow to react to my inputs, while others call it predictable. So, only you can decide what's best for you and the only way to do that is to take some test rides. FWIW, lots of members here post that they routinely do centuries on race bikes. 



Eng4G3 said:


> This looks like a great site, I'll have to take some measurements and play around with it a little. Thanks!


IME online fit calculators do more harm than good, confusing cyclists by their recommended_ range_ of fit parameters that then need to be translated to geo charts. All they 'know' are numbers inputted, ignoring cyclists previous experiences, anatomical issues (if any) fitness or flexibility. 

My advice is to leave sizing and fitting to your LBS. The reputable ones (which you should be seeking out while hunting down that new bike) will do a far better job than most cyclists. Even many pro's know what fits and feels right, but don't know how to attain it, so once you decide on a bike and LBS, I suggest working one on one with the fitter.


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## Gnosis (Oct 19, 2011)

I purchased a new Platinum 2011 Trek 2.1 Triple (50/39/30 with 11-28 cassette) in the latter part of October 2011. Out the door price was $999, an awesome deal.

I soon after replaced its harsh riding OEM Bontrager R1 Plus 700 x 23 tires with a set of Bontrager Race All Weather Plus 700 x 28 tires, which provide far better ride quality.

I just rode my Trek 2.1 on my first century on March 14, 2012 and aside from its OEM seat being torturously brutal (it’s a goner), I otherwise enjoyed my long hilly ride.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

Trek 2.1. WE have two and love 'em both.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

See if the LBS has a nice test ride demo program.... ie see if the charges you incurr for demoing the bikes will act as a credit for the purchase of a new bike.... my LBS does this.

...then go on longer rides of various terrain... so you can see the differences between all the bikes.


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## Guod (Jun 9, 2011)

Try the cannondale synapse and CAAD10 back to back. You'll probably be suprised at how little difference there is in ride in terms of comfort. The CAAD10 will feel alot sharper in handling though.


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## charlox5 (Jan 31, 2011)

Guod said:


> Try the cannondale synapse and CAAD10 back to back. You'll probably be suprised at how little difference there is in ride in terms of comfort. The CAAD10 will feel alot sharper in handling though.


+1, the CAAD9 or 10 should be test ridden at the very least, as it's the best bike at this price point imho. Of course, "best" is subjective, and may or may not apply to the OP, but it's worth consideration and a test ride.

I'll say that I'm more comfy racking up the miles on my aggressive geometry bike (Lynskey R330) than I was on my old "relaxed geo" bike (Giant Defy), but there is a litany of reasons why--ranging from tire choice, to what my fitting told me about my ideal riding position to the actual geometry. More upright doesn't always mean more comfort.


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## Phaseshift (Mar 21, 2012)

great info in this thread, wish I had that much of budget to spend  GL on your search


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

So unfortunately this week has turned out to be much busier than I was anticipating. I finally had time to make it to a LBS yesterday, so I went to the C'dale shop. They were sold out of the 54cm Synapse 105s unfortunately, but they did have a 2011 54cm CAAD10 105s. Normally I think this bike would be just out of my price range, but because it is last years model it was significantly discounted ($1,190). So it actually is the cheapest bike on the list now. Even though I wasn't able to back to back compare it to a relaxed geo bike, I could definitely tell a difference in fit. The handling was a lot sharper and I think I understand more of what yall have been saying comparing racing to relaxed geo. The only thing I noticed was I felt a little stretched out when I had my hands on the hoods, but if I just put them across the flat bar it felt fine.. so I'm guessing that could just be fixed with a fitting/shorter stem. They also said that buying a bike from them includes a fitting session. It usually lasts around an hour and they go through a bunch of adjustments. 

They gave the analogy of racing bikes being like sports cars, and while you can drive them across country, it might be more comfortable in a sedan (relaxed geo bike). So we'll see, hopefully I'll be able to make it back to the Specialized shop this weekend.

At this point I think the Felt is out.. it was a nice bike, but I don't think it stands out as being significantly different from the others, and I am just not impressed with the LBS that carries them, especially compared to the others.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Eng4G3 said:


> So unfortunately this week has turned out to be much busier than I was anticipating. I finally had time to make it to a LBS yesterday, so I went to the C'dale shop. They were sold out of the 54cm Synapse 105s unfortunately, but they did have a 2011 54cm CAAD10 105s. Normally I think this bike would be just out of my price range, but because it is last years model it was significantly discounted ($1,190). So it actually is the cheapest bike on the list now. Even though I wasn't able to back to back compare it to a relaxed geo bike, I could definitely tell a difference in fit. The handling was a lot sharper and I think I understand more of what yall have been saying comparing racing to relaxed geo. The only thing I noticed was I felt a little stretched out when I had my hands on the hoods, but if I just put them across the flat bar it felt fine.. so I'm guessing that could just be fixed with a fitting/shorter stem. They also said that buying a bike from them includes a fitting session. It usually lasts around an hour and they go through a bunch of adjustments.
> 
> They gave the analogy of racing bikes being like sports cars, and while you can drive them across country, it might be more comfortable in a sedan (relaxed geo bike). So we'll see, hopefully I'll be able to make it back to the Specialized shop this weekend.
> 
> At this point I think the Felt is out.. it was a nice bike, but I don't think it stands out as being significantly different from the others, and I am just not impressed with the LBS that carries them, especially compared to the others.


After that, if you do make it back to Specialized, try both the Allez and Secteur.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Eng4G3 said:


> So unfortunately this week has turned out to be much busier than I was anticipating. I finally had time to make it to a LBS yesterday, so I went to the C'dale shop. They were sold out of the 54cm Synapse 105s unfortunately, but they did have a 2011 54cm CAAD10 105s. Normally I think this bike would be just out of my price range, but because it is last years model it was significantly discounted ($1,190). So it actually is the cheapest bike on the list now. Even though I wasn't able to back to back compare it to a relaxed geo bike, I could definitely tell a difference in fit. The handling was a lot sharper and I think I understand more of what yall have been saying comparing racing to relaxed geo. The only thing I noticed was I felt a little stretched out when I had my hands on the hoods, but if I just put them across the flat bar it felt fine.. so I'm guessing that could just be fixed with a fitting/shorter stem. They also said that buying a bike from them includes a fitting session. It usually lasts around an hour and they go through a bunch of adjustments.
> 
> They gave the analogy of racing bikes being like sports cars, and while you can drive them across country, it might be more comfortable in a sedan (relaxed geo bike). So we'll see, hopefully I'll be able to make it back to the Specialized shop this weekend.
> 
> At this point I think the Felt is out.. it was a nice bike, but I don't think it stands out as being significantly different from the others, and I am just not impressed with the LBS that carries them, especially compared to the others.


From what you're offering re: this LBS, indications are they're a reputable shop. I think their analogy of a sports car versus sedan is a good one, and as you've experienced, test riding bikes really is the best method to gain some insight on our preferences. 

You're right that the extended reach to the hoods can be adjusted during the fitting by installing a slightly shorter stem, so if the bike felt pretty good otherwise, no worries there. And speaking of the fitting, if they're quoting you an hour, you'll be getting a decent one - kudo's to them on that score.

Eliminating bikes (in this case, the Felt) is IMO/E part of the process of whittling the field, which is another reason for test rides. Oftentimes, specs alone don't tell the tale of how you'll feel after riding a bike. Also, as you've found, based on brand/ model availability your 'candidate list' may change/ expand some, so before deciding, I suggest making time to visit some other LBS's and test riding some other brands/ models. 

By doing so, when you finally do hone in on THE bike, you be fairly certain that (all things considered) it was the right choice for you.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

How competitive do you want to be in your triathlon?

The race bikes are going to have a bit of an advantage there, to make a very broad generalization. If you're up at the front of your AG and you care about a few minutes, you may want to set up your road bike in a more time trial/triathlon configuration. A taller head tube, as on most comfort-oriented bikes, may be an impediment. If you just want to finish it and do your own best race, it doesn't really matter.

+1 to SAVE, Zertz, and any other gimmick being gimmicks.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

Well I finally had some time to make it back to the shops today, ride some bikes, and make a decision. Thanks for all the help and input from everyone here, I felt like I really understood what to look for and what I was doing throughout the process.

I wound up going with a 52cm CAAD10 5. I put a deposit on it and will be able to pick it up just after Easter. I went back to both the Specialized and the C'dale shops today. I rerode the Specialized Secteur Elite Apex and again, it felt fine, but it also didn't feel great. The guys at the shop were pretty cool and remembered me. So I felt like it would have been a good bike, and the shop really emphasizes fit. They didn't have any Allez in, and really didn't want me riding one, which I was a little put off by.

Next I went to the C'dale shop.. I was really impressed with the guy I worked with there, I don't think he was around last time I was in. He spent about two hours working with me trying different sizes and bikes (54cm and 52cm CAAD10, 54cm Synapse 5). I rode the 52cm CAAD10 first and really liked it. I could tell a difference with the race bike and liked being able to zip around. It was extremely smooth and quiet, shifted well. The only issue was I felt like the stem needed to be flipped so the handlebars were up a little higher, and then maybe a slightly longer stem so I would be forward a little more. So we tried the 54cm. The standover height made me a little nervous.. if it were a little taller I'd probably be uncomfortable. Since cycling shoes don't have as much of a heel as the running shoes I was wearing, I figured it would be pretty close with that. I also felt a little too stretched out on it, the handlebars would definitely need to come back, and they felt a little wide as well. So it almost felt like I was trying to be superman or something cause my arms were really stretched (and I felt it in my shoulders). Lastly, I rode the Synapse. It felt good, I could tell I was more upright and it was comfortable. But again, I just didn't love it. After talking with the guy a little more he said that based on the riding he does, the Synapse *should* be the bike for him, but he just doesn't like it, so he rides something else. I sort of felt like I was in a similar situation, so I decided to go with the CAAD10. They are having a sale next week, so the bike is on hold for me until then so I can get it a little cheaper. So all in all I'll be about $100 over my original budget for a bike, but I'm really happy with what I wound up with and I think it'll last quite a while. I'm looking forward to being able to pick it up and get the fitting so I can start riding!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Eng4G3 said:


> I wound up going with a 52cm CAAD10 5.


Congrats on your decision! Sounds like you had pretty good experiences at both shops. 

I agree that it's a little off putting that the Spec shop didn't want you to ride the Allez. I would have simply asked what the harm could be, because IMO/E it never hurts to ride _more_ bikes.

Post a pic up when you get your CAAD10. I'm sure you'll be very happy with it.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Eng4G3 said:


> Well I finally had some time to make it back to the shops today, ride some bikes, and make a decision. Thanks for all the help and input from everyone here, I felt like I really understood what to look for and what I was doing throughout the process.
> 
> I wound up going with a 52cm CAAD10 5. I put a deposit on it and will be able to pick it up just after Easter. I went back to both the Specialized and the C'dale shops today. I rerode the Specialized Secteur Elite Apex and again, it felt fine, but it also didn't feel great. The guys at the shop were pretty cool and remembered me. So I felt like it would have been a good bike, and the shop really emphasizes fit. They didn't have any Allez in, and really didn't want me riding one, which I was a little put off by.
> 
> Next I went to the C'dale shop.. I was really impressed with the guy I worked with there, I don't think he was around last time I was in. He spent about two hours working with me trying different sizes and bikes (54cm and 52cm CAAD10, 54cm Synapse 5). I rode the 52cm CAAD10 first and really liked it. I could tell a difference with the race bike and liked being able to zip around. It was extremely smooth and quiet, shifted well. The only issue was I felt like the stem needed to be flipped so the handlebars were up a little higher, and then maybe a slightly longer stem so I would be forward a little more. So we tried the 54cm. The standover height made me a little nervous.. if it were a little taller I'd probably be uncomfortable. Since cycling shoes don't have as much of a heel as the running shoes I was wearing, I figured it would be pretty close with that. I also felt a little too stretched out on it, the handlebars would definitely need to come back, and they felt a little wide as well. So it almost felt like I was trying to be superman or something cause my arms were really stretched (and I felt it in my shoulders). Lastly, I rode the Synapse. It felt good, I could tell I was more upright and it was comfortable. But again, I just didn't love it. After talking with the guy a little more he said that based on the riding he does, the Synapse *should* be the bike for him, but he just doesn't like it, so he rides something else. I sort of felt like I was in a similar situation, so I decided to go with the CAAD10. They are having a sale next week, so the bike is on hold for me until then so I can get it a little cheaper. So all in all I'll be about $100 over my original budget for a bike, but I'm really happy with what I wound up with and I think it'll last quite a while. I'm looking forward to being able to pick it up and get the fitting so I can start riding!


Congrats on the new bike. I would agree also on the shop not wanting to put you on an Allez as a put off. And that you ended up getting a CAAD from a competitor pretty much shows they were wrong. The Allez and CAAD are similar. Almost sounds like they just wanted to sell you something on the floor.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

NJBiker72 said:


> Almost sounds like they just wanted to sell you something on the floor.


I think you might be right.. because the only models I looked at at that shop were 2011s, I'd imagine they are trying to clear their inventory out. I know they had at least 10 or so of the 2011 Secteur Elite Apex. I'm not sure how true this is, but the guy at the C'dale shop didn't have very good things to say about Specialized reps; they can be pretty demanding on how you run your store. So it could just be speculation, but I wonder if something with that could result in why the shop was that way.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Eng4G3 said:


> I think you might be right.. because the only models I looked at at that shop were 2011s, I'd imagine they are trying to clear their inventory out. I know they had at least 10 or so of the 2011 Secteur Elite Apex. I'm not sure how true this is, but the guy at the C'dale shop didn't have very good things to say about Specialized reps; they can be pretty demanding on how you run your store. So it could just be speculation, but I wonder if something with that could result in why the shop was that way.


I've gotten all of the family's bikes over the last few years from a Specialized/Trek shop. They have been great. That said, the guys that were great left to open up a Giant shop and I am noticing some differences. Whether that is due to Specialized or just the shop's managment who knows. I don't need a new bike but would definitely check out the new Giant shop if I dd.

I think it is terrible practice not to put a customer on the bike they want to try. I did set out last year looking to ride a Giant but really did not like the old Giant shop. So I tried a Canondale/Cervelo shop that really helped me and then the Specialized/Trek shop. The shop experience was almost as important to me as the bike. I got a Tarmac.

But if they would have told me that I should ride a Roubaix and not put me on a Tarmac? I would be on a Super Six now. Just like you are on a CAAD.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Last time I test-rode bikes, the guy insisted on putting me on the 44cm I was curious about (different sizing system) even though we both thought it was "probably" too short for me. Sooner or later, I'm going to find a reason to spend some money at his shop. Too many good shops near me!


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## mjcz5853 (Mar 26, 2012)

Eng4G3 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I found this thread/forum as I am trying to get more information on buying a new road bike and this has been extremely helpful!
> 
> ...


As some others have said, comparing LBS's is an excellent way to shop for a bike. I almost made a mistake on my most recent purchase. The owner of the LBS I normally buy from had me sold on a particular bike, even though I was in the market for a manufacturer he did not carry. He also refused to help me with the price. Well later in the week I stopped into another shop and found the owner to be outstanding! He not only guided me in the direction I wanted to go, but found the bike I wanted and gave it to me for an excellent price. In addition, he asked me to stop by Saturdays or Sunday mornings to ride with his informal group. What an eye opener! Looks like I found a new bike shop and friend.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

I was finally able to pick up the bike on Monday, so here's a pic. Sorry its just from a crappy cell phone camera. I went for a 20 mile ride on Thursday and was hoping to do more today, but I could only get 12 in before the weather got pretty crappy. I also picked up some Specialized Elite Road shoes and ordered some Speedplay Chrome-Moly pedals. They said the pedals should be in in a week and a half or so. Once those come in I'll be all set to get the fitting done.

The bike has been a lot of fun to ride so far, its very quiet and smooth. I love how responsive it is, both to handling and acceleration. Overall I think it fits well, but I am definitely going to need to get used to the saddle. My butt was pretty sore by the end of the 20 mile ride. I've also noticed that my arms (upper bicep, tricep, and lats/shoulders) have gotten a little sore during the rides. I'm not sure if thats me still getting used to the bike, or if an adjustment needs to be made to fix that.

Unfortunately I think the pump that I bought is not going to get the job done. I tried inflating my tires before the ride today, and unless I'm doing something wrong, I just couldn't get it to go above 85 psi. Partly because I felt like if I pushed harder I was going to break the handles off of the pump, but it just got really tough and even when I put my weight on it (which isn't much, 140lbs maybe) I couldn't get it to inflate any higher.

Another question I had was the bike came with some sort of cover guard for the frame for cable rub. There are six or so clear sticker-like things, but the instructions for putting them on/where to put them are kind of terrible. Does anyone have any experience using these and where all they need to be installed?


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## charlox5 (Jan 31, 2011)

Congrats on the new bike. Saddle soreness and muscle fatigue will happen for the first couple of weeks. Strengthening your core will help facilitate getting comfy in the saddle quicker (and pushups to help stave off lower back pain!), but your hips/sit bones will be sore for a week or two of riding before you find that your saddle and your body get used to each other. If, after 2 weeks, the soreness isn't gone, or your saddle never gets really comfy, you can start down the winding road of finding the perfect saddle. 

re: your pump, was the presta valve unscrewed enough to let the air into the tube? a decent floor pump isn't too expensive, $20-30.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice bike... congrats!!

With only two rides under your belt, thus far, I'd attribute the discomfort to acclimation to road riding. If the shoulder pain remains or intensifies and/ or you experience neck/ back pain, bar reach/ drop may need to be adjusted. Hand/ finger numbness/ discomfort would indicate too much frontal weight, so some things to be aware of.

Poor form can also cause fit issues, so keep your upper body relaxed, arms slightly bent and a slightly loose grip on the bars, changing hand position frequently. If you don't already have them, I suggest some good quality gloves. IME these suggestions go a long way in preventing upper body discomfort. 

The clear stickers are placed on the head tube, wherever there's housing/ frame contact. Place them long ends vertically, so that the frame is protected against any up/ down motion of the housing due to road vibrations.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

charlox5 said:


> re: your pump, was the presta valve unscrewed enough to let the air into the tube? a decent floor pump isn't too expensive, $20-30.


I think so.. Although it could have been user error. This is the pump I got: Serfas FP-55 Floor Pump - Free Shipping at REI.com Maybe I should have looked it up online before I bought it though, seems like a number of the reviews say they couldn't get it up over 85ish either.



PJ352 said:


> Nice bike... congrats!!
> 
> With only two rides under your belt, thus far, I'd attribute the discomfort to acclimation to road riding. If the shoulder pain remains or intensifies and/ or you experience neck/ back pain, bar reach/ drop may need to be adjusted. Hand/ finger numbness/ discomfort would indicate too much frontal weight, so some things to be aware of.
> 
> ...


Cool, thanks for all the help PJ!


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Sounds like you could use a better floor pump.

I have a different Serfas floor pump, the TCPC. No problem getting to 95 psi. Probably no problem with more, I just don't use more than that in any of my bikes.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

Well, I got it up to 100 psi yesterday.. so it might've partly been user error last time. I think I might've not had the end of the pump far enough on the valve, but I could be wrong. Either way, I still feel like I'm going to break it once it gets to higher psi, so we'll see how long it lasts.

Any recommendations on tire pressure? The wheels say 85 min - 110 max. I'm guess best practice is to be somewhere in the middle, but I'm not sure if I want to be on the high end or low end of that?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

It depends on your weight. Here's an article. I'm not sure how good it is, it seems to recommend more pressure than I like, but it'll give you a starting point. If it feels harsh, try less pressure. If you feel like your tires are wallowing in turns, try more. If you find you can't get to a low enough pressure for a smooth ride, bigger tires will help.

http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Eng4G3 said:


> Well, I got it up to 100 psi yesterday.. so it might've partly been user error last time. I think I might've not had the end of the pump far enough on the valve, but I could be wrong. Either way, I still feel like I'm going to break it once it gets to higher psi, so we'll see how long it lasts.
> 
> Any recommendations on tire pressure? The wheels say 85 min - 110 max. I'm guess best practice is to be somewhere in the middle, but I'm not sure if I want to be on the high end or low end of that?


Lots of threads on experimenting with tire pressures. The link below will serve as a 'starter guide', but (similar to what the text states) consider total rider weight, tire construction/ size, road conditions and your style of riding when experimenting.

Michelin Bicycle USA - A better way forward®


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## BobGnarly (May 1, 2012)

I just picked up my specialized allez elite compact. Love it :thumbsup:


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Eng4G3 said:


> So I guess there is something wrong with my rear tire. I've noticed on the past few rides (especially when I am going fast and not pedaling, ie down a hill), that my rear wheel feels like it is wobbling. There is a bulge/weird spot on it where the tread deviates from the center of the tire and moves over more on to the side. When you pick the bike up by the seat and spin the rear tire, you can see at one point it almost looks like a weird bend happens. I guess the bike shop must have missed this when they put the bike together/checked it over?
> 
> I took it back to the shop this weekend and explained what was going on, they said it might just be cause the reflector is still on and could be causing some weird imbalance/weight thing. So they asked if I wanted them to take it off, and I said sure if that'll get rid of the wobbling. They came back out a little while later and said look at this, and proceeded to show me the bend in the tread/tire. They said it must be a manufactures defect and they'll call C'dale on Monday (today) about it to get a replacement sent out.
> 
> Has anyone had something similar happen?


Strange. Not sure what you mean by bend? And the reflector causing your tire to wobble?? Not sure I buy that either. I am not the most mechanically inclined but certainly feels wrong. Think about how little a reflector weighs.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

So I guess there is something wrong with my rear tire. I've noticed on the past few rides (especially when I am going fast and not pedaling, ie down a hill), that my rear wheel feels like it is wobbling. There is a bulge/weird spot on it where the tread deviates from the center of the tire and moves over more on to the side. When you pick the bike up by the seat and spin the rear tire, you can see at one point it almost looks like a weird bend happens. I guess the bike shop must have missed this when they put the bike together/checked it over?

I took it back to the shop this weekend and explained what was going on, they said it might just be cause the reflector is still on and could be causing some weird imbalance/weight thing. So they asked if I wanted them to take it off, and I said sure if that'll get rid of the wobbling. They came back out a little while later and said look at this, and proceeded to show me the bend in the tread/tire. They said it must be a manufactures defect and they'll call C'dale on Monday (today) about it to get a replacement sent out.

Has anyone had something similar happen?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Reflectors, plugs in rims, even the valve are enough to cause a wheel to wobble a little bit if the bike is on a rack or something. I don't think I can feel any of that stuff when I'm riding it, though.

Like all products created by people, the treads on tires are never perfectly aligned. I'm surprised that one with enough of a deviation to cause a problem in real life made it past quality control. 

Sometimes something similar can happen if the tire isn't seated on the rim quite right. That strikes me as more likely, although you should also have had a blowout.  Anyway, if the shop gets it solved, it doesn't really matter how the problem happened unless it comes up again.

Just to be "that guy" - you're sure it's not the rim being off? That's actually a pretty common problem, more so with machine-built and low spoke count wheels. It's not too hard to fix, at least as long as the rim's not really badly damaged.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

NJBiker72 said:


> Strange. Not sure what you mean by bend? And the reflector causing your tire to wobble?? Not sure I buy that either. I am not the most mechanically inclined but certainly feels wrong. Think about how little a reflector weighs.


Well.. its hard to describe, it is sort of like a little bulge.. if I hold the bike up and spin the rear wheel, it seems to roll pretty straight except for at one point it seems like it bends out, almost like a 'C' except that before and after are straight instead of curved like the top and bottom of the letter C.. does that make sense?

My first thought when he said it might be the reflector was, are you serious? I don't think it would cause that big of a difference, and to be able to visibly see it on the tire when hand spun at low speeds? So I said, well.. why doesn't the front tire do that? Cause when I pick that one up and spin it with my hand it looks fine, no wobble. And he sort of scratched his head.



AndrwSwitch said:


> Just to be "that guy" - *you're sure it's not the rim being off*? That's actually a pretty common problem, more so with machine-built and low spoke count wheels. It's not too hard to fix, at least as long as the rim's not really badly damaged.


To be honest, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by that. When I looked at it before I took it in, I thought it might be that the tire wasn't on the rim correctly.. as in, maybe it was pushed all the way against the left side of the rim, except in one spot it was pushed over to the right, and then back to the left.. sort of causing that 'C'/bulge explanation. I don't know if this makes sense in the real world or could even happen with bike tires, but thats what it seemed like to a newb like myself.

I'm just glad that the guy did seem to think something was wrong with it beyond just the reflector, and that the wobble wasn't just in my head. I'll have to take a look at it again tonight and maybe I'll try to get a picture of it (if it'll turn out) to show what I am talking about.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Take the tire off and give the wheel a spin. If the problem is the rim, it'll still be there. If the problem is the tire, it won't.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If I'm following your description correctly, at one point, the tire isn't fully seated on the rim. When air pressure is increased, the tube pushes the tire up (away from the rim) causing the tread to look offset in that one spot. Just why this happened is an open question, but judging from your LBS's feedback, the tire is defective. 

If what I described is what's going on, I suggest not riding with that tire until the problem is corrected, because if the tire slips further up, you could suffer a blowout.

BTW, I think the LBS may have interpreted the word 'wobble' as a vibration and mentioned the reflectors. Once they watched the tire spin, it sounds like they narrowed the cause.


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## Eng4G3 (Mar 19, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> If I'm following your description correctly, at one point, the tire isn't fully seated on the rim. When air pressure is increased, the tube pushes the tire up (away from the rim) causing the tread to look offset in that one spot. Just why this happened is an open question, but judging from your LBS's feedback, the tire is defective.


Hmm.. maybe.. so my descriptions are as if I am looking down on the tire from above. I wish I knew my sailing terms cause port and starboard might be helpful here.. but basically, the bend is from say the side of the wheel without all of the gears (the left side) to the side with the gears (right side), so its a horizontal bend. The tire doesn't look like it is separating from the rim in a vertical sense, which maybe could be interpreted from what I am describing if you are looking at the wheel from the side, or as if it were on the bike and you were looking at it from across the room or whatever. 

So it is almost like the tread of the tire goes slightly out onto the side of the tire (on the side with the gears) and then goes back into the center of the tire where it is supposed to be. Maybe a better way to try to describe it is if you were to deflate the tire, put it on the ground, and cut it so you could lay it out flat in a line with the tread facing up, the tread would be down the center of the tire except in one spot it deviates and goes off center to one side for maybe two inches, and then goes back to the center. Its hard to describe and even to see when you are just looking at the tire.. but when you spin it there is definitely a point at which it seems as if the tire is moving to the side with the gears and then back to center, which has to be what I am feeling when I am riding.. maybe it isn't the tire or the treads, but thats just a result of what is really causing the problem. I have no idea, but hopefully its just the tire and it will get straightened out when the LBS gets the replacement on the bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

eng4g3 said:


> * the tire doesn't look like it is separating from the rim in a vertical sense,* which maybe could be interpreted from what i am describing if you are looking at the wheel from the side, or as if it were on the bike and you were looking at it from across the room or whatever.


If the tire is uniformly seated on the rim, it's likely just the tread is the problem. Look at the pic below - specifically the somewhat jagged edge below the letters PSI. If yours runs around the rim without that jagged part becoming more prominent where the tread swerves (or anywhere else, for that matter), it's the tread that's defective. 
View attachment 256556


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## Lkheat11 (May 8, 2012)

Hey All- New to forum and can't post anywhere until I get 5 post. Is a full carbon 9 speed felt
Z6 2010 new a good deal at 1099.00? Please help!


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