# Buffing out scratches in Pro Team white?



## kjmunc (Sep 19, 2005)

Anybody had any luck buffing out light surface scratches on the Pro Team white paint? My 595 has a couple of spots on the seat and top tube that seem to be just clear coat abrasions but I haven't tried anything yet to buff them out. 

Thanks in advance for the advice


----------



## Amfoto1 (Feb 16, 2010)

It's really no different than automotive paint repair with the modern clear coats used on cars. 

In fact, the clear coat on these bikes is thicker than that on most cars. (Deliberately, to level up all the different layers of graphics under the clear.) This can make repairs even easier, so long as the scratch isn't all the way through the clear coat and into the color coats underneath.

If the scratch is very shallow, you might be able to get it out with a little buffing compound. 

If the scratch is deeper - as in you can easily catch your fingernail on it - it's usually best to re-fill the scratch with clear first, then level it. A lot of folks just use clear nail polish. That works okay for a really small touch up that doesn't need much follow up. Probably better - especially for larger or deeper repairs - auto parts stores sell clear coat paint in applicators that will work just fine. The best of these are from auto paint specialty stores. 

Prep the area to be touched up by cleaning first with rubbing alcohol and/or lacquer thinner. This is so all oils or whatever are removed and the new clear coat will stick well.

Then apply and let the clear dry a few days before trying to level it off. Do your best with toothpicks or fine paint brushes to fill in the scratch, and not get any or too much on the surrounding surface. The clear will shrink a bit as it dries. A second or third coat may be needed to fill completely, depending upon how deep the scratch is. 

Depending upon how well the clear goes on and how large the repair is, once the clear is completely dry you may then need to use some ultra fine wet sandpaper - very carefully - to level the finish. Try 800 and then 1200 or even 1500 or finer grit. Again, be very careful at this stage and use a bucket or a squeeze bottle of water with some dish soap in it to keep the sandpaper clean, wash away the the residue. If the clear isn't thoroughly dry it will "pull" and gum up the sand paper. Wet sanding cuts through paint a lot faster than most people realize, so go slow and gently. 

Follow the sanding with rubbing compounds to fully bring back the high gloss. These compounds come in heavy, medium and fine grades. Start with heavy or medium, then follow up with fine to finish the job. Small spots are usually best done by hand. Larger areas can be power buffed. Many automotive clear coats have to be buffed out as a final step, anyway.

Done right, during the buffing you can blend with the surrounding area so that the repair is close to invisible. 

Have fun!


----------

