# Chain Lube



## hoehnt (Nov 7, 2008)

Whats your favorite?


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## Stogaguy (Feb 11, 2006)

*Home brew*

I am a dedicated "home brew" user. Home brew refers to some sort of oil (usually motor oil or gear oil) mixed with a volatile solvent (usually mineral spirits). The solvent cleans the chain and ensures penetration of the oil. Once the solvent has evaporated a thin film of oil is left. This approach gives me the easiest chain maintenance I have ever had and the cleanest drive train.

My personal mix is 1 part 90w gear oil and 4 parts mineral spirits.

I humbly suggest editing the poll to include home brew as a seperate response choice.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

Dumonde Tech


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## motobacon (Oct 3, 2005)

Rock n Roll Gold


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## gambo2166 (Oct 20, 2004)

Dumonde Tech


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## rkj__ (Mar 21, 2007)

I like Triflow. A nice light wet lube.


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## hoehnt (Nov 7, 2008)

Ive been using White Lighning, but I got caught in a good rain on Sat. Today I went to ride and when I lubed the chain I noticed a bunch of rust. Maybe I need to switch to something different.


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## iliveonnitro (Feb 19, 2006)

When I can afford it, FinishLine.

When I can't, silicon spray from home depot. Cheap as hell and just as good as any other spray stuff.


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## curlybike (Jan 23, 2002)

Rock n Roll


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

ProLink Gold


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## neil0502 (Feb 11, 2005)

Stogaguy said:


> I am a dedicated "home brew" user. Home brew refers to some sort of oil (usually motor oil or gear oil) mixed with a volatile solvent (usually mineral spirits). The solvent cleans the chain and ensures penetration of the oil. Once the solvent has evaporated a thin film of oil is left. This approach gives me the easiest chain maintenance I have ever had and the cleanest drive train.
> 
> My personal mix is 1 part 90w gear oil and 4 parts mineral spirits.


+1 ... +/- on the mix. I tend to use Mobil1, about 1:3 or 1:2 with mineral spirits.

It also livens up my breakfast cereal


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## Mark H (Dec 12, 2007)

motobacon said:


> Rock n Roll Gold



+1 for Rock n Roll Gold


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

I voted "other" --
_*DuPont Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon*_.

DuPont part # DM0614101 (aerosol).

Available at Lowes Hardware for $5-6 per can (don't know SKU#).

A "dry-ish" lube, popular w/ MTB-ers.

From DuPont spec sheet:​
*PRODUCT DESCRIPTION​*






Goes on wet to penetrate & evenly coat frictional surface​
Sets up with a clean, dry, wax film which will not attract dirt.​
Patented "self-cleaning" technology sheds contaminants to minimize or prevent abrasive wear.​
Silicone free fi lm protects against rust and corrosion.​
Formulated with Teflon® fl uoropolymer to deliver longer lubricant life, higher temperature stability, and better resistance to water and chemical contaminants.
Utilizes organic, non-staining molybdenum for enhanced extreme pressure performance.​



*Ideal for use in applications where:*
​


Parts are exposed to dust and grit, where oil and grease absorb contaminants, causing abrasive wear.
High moisture applications where other lubricants are quickly washed off.​
Parts need to be coated to prevent rust & corrosion.​
High RPM chains like motorcycle, ATV, Go-Kart, etc. where conventional oil lubricants will fl ing off. O-Ring safe.

Base Lubricant :

Performance Grade Lubricating Wax​
PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)​
Organic Molybdenum Disulfide​
Synthesized Calcium Stearate​
Anti-wear Additives​
Rust & Corrosion Inhibitors​


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Seems like a lot of previously listed Favorites are missing from the Poll.
1. Rock 'N' Roll GOLD
2. Home Brew 4:1 (4-Parts Mineral Spirits and 1-Part Motor/Mineral Oil)


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## Pieter (Oct 17, 2005)

Finish Line wet - applied one drop per link on a hot chain (after cleaning, drying) . A bottle goes a long way.


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*H B*



jmlapoint said:


> 2. Home Brew 4:1 (4-Parts Mineral Spirits and 1-Part Motor/Mineral Oil)


In my experience using synthetic motor oil makes a slighty cleaner lube. Search the forum for detailed application instructions.


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## BrianN (Feb 11, 2008)

Dumonde. It's been a somewhat dry year for cross racing. Not as easy to clean, but lasts a long time.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Home brew*

OMS/Mobil1; 3/1


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## pdainsworth (Jun 6, 2004)

Late spring to early autumn... ProLink Gold.
Rest of the year... Finish Line Wet (I live in the Pacific North West)


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## immerle (Nov 6, 2007)

T9, only because that's the only brand my LBS carries.
It works nice but gets a little gunky after a while.
I'd try Prolink but I'd really have to go out of my way or pay shipping to get it.

P.S.

Users of home brew, how do you dispense it?
I bought a oil can from the hardware store, but it shoots the lube half way across the basement.


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## SlaminSam (Nov 1, 2007)

+1 on the Rock & Roll Gold.


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## Stogaguy (Feb 11, 2006)

*Home brew dispenser*

You need something with a small orifice as properly mixed home brew is very thin. To apply, I use a small plastic contact lens solution bottle. This is just about perfect. I mix my lube in a larger container. However there is nothing to stop you from mixing in the same container with which you apply the lube.


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## neil0502 (Feb 11, 2005)

immerle said:


> Users of home brew, how do you dispense it?
> I bought a oil can from the hardware store, but it shoots the lube half way across the basement.


I tried the oil can, too. Same result.

Mine's in a jar. I shake the jar, and then apply with a toothbrush -- literally.

It minimizes waste, and covers the width of the chain, pretty well ensuring it gets where it needs to. 

I do this AFTER a ride, so the whole concept can work (mineral spirits thins the mix, allowing it to penetrate fully, and then evaporates, leaving the oil behind).

That's my 3-season solution. Winter is WD-40 cleaning AFTER a ride, and cheap spray lube BEFORE the next ride -- whatever's on hand: CRC, LPS, or any other.


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## Tlaloc (May 12, 2005)

Dumonde Tech attracts grit like a magnet. I used it on my mountain bike's chain and went for a ride on dry, dusty trails. When I got back my chain was a huge ball of dust and sand. I took my chain off and cleaned it and my gears. Then I threw the Dumonde away.

+1 on Rock N Roll and ProLink.


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

butter. unsalted.


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## immerle (Nov 6, 2007)

Creakyknees said:


> butter. unsalted.


Nobody uses butter anymore.
It's EVO or nothing!


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## Tlaloc (May 12, 2005)

K-Y
don't be shy
just 69.95
give her a try

- Frank Zappa


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

Rock and Roll on the Bikes
WD40 on the motorcycle


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## Visitor302 (Aug 6, 2005)

Valvoline 10W-40


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

Visitor302 said:


> Valvoline 10W-40


That's a nasty chain.


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## hoehnt (Nov 7, 2008)

I wonder what gives the best chain longevity. Seems like this wax stuff isnt very good. I dont see how it can get into the nooks and crannys where its needed.

And Campy Record chains arent cheap.


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

Chain oil is snake oil. There are all these marketing ideas on what chain lubricants do, but know one really knows because no one does any objective testing.

I have a new paradigm from learning from a motorcycling buddy of mine (Andy on Soubthbayriders.com) . He would get incredibly long chain life on his GXSR 1000, going fast, doing track days and wheelies all the time. His chain lube was WD40 only. WD40 vary much against the grain because the myth is that WD40 is one, not a lubricant, and two, it brakes down the o-rings in moto chains. Andy’s conclusion is that a clean chain is a long lasting chain and WD40 is a excellent cleaner.

So, that is why I like Rock n Roll, is that when you apply it you clean the chain and chain stays very clean because it does not collect dirt. Rock n Roll is much cleaner than my last favorite lube Dumonde Tech, which was recommended to me by the one and only Steve “Gravy” Gravinites when I worked with him at Sausalito Cyclery. Dumonde Tech collects dirt too much.


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## CleavesF (Dec 31, 2007)

Vegetable Spread Faces.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

hoehnt said:


> I wonder what gives the best chain longevity. Seems like this wax stuff isnt very good. I dont see how it can get into the nooks and crannys where its needed.
> 
> Rock "N" Roll Gold used regularly with good chain 'wipe-down' before and after rides.
> Works for me.
> I ride Fixed so my chains last forever.


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## lancezneighbor (May 4, 2002)

ProLink Gold is by far the best I've used. I have tried Finish Line Wet, Pedros Ice Wax, White Lightning, Pedros Extra Dry, and some others. ProLink Gold lasts a VERY long time for me and stays amazingly clean.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

lancezneighbor said:


> ProLink Gold is by far the best I've used. I have tried Finish Line Wet, Pedros Ice Wax, White Lightning, Pedros Extra Dry, and some others. ProLink Gold lasts a VERY long time for me and stays amazingly clean.


+1 for ProLink.
I have used ProLink for years and it works great.
It is fairly thick, and thus applies nicely where you put it w/o mess or dripping.
It leaves the chain feeling 'slippery' after wipe-down, but does IMO collect dust readily and after each ride leaves black residue on my cleaning rag. With that as the only drawback, it's performance on my SS/FG chains is super.


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## brujenn (Nov 26, 2007)

*That's the ticket*



Stogaguy said:


> You need something with a small orifice


must... not.... comment....


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## brujenn (Nov 26, 2007)

*I'm with you roy*



Killroy said:


> Chain oil is snake oil. There are all these marketing ideas on what chain lubricants do, but know one really knows because no one does any objective testing.
> 
> I have a new paradigm from learning from a motorcycling buddy of mine (Andy on Soubthbayriders.com) . He would get incredibly long chain life on his GXSR 1000, going fast, doing track days and wheelies all the time. His chain lube was WD40 only. WD40 vary much against the grain because the myth is that WD40 is one, not a lubricant, and two, it brakes down the o-rings in moto chains. Andy’s conclusion is that a clean chain is a long lasting chain and WD40 is a excellent cleaner.
> 
> So, that is why I like Rock n Roll, is that when you apply it you clean the chain and chain stays very clean because it does not collect dirt. Rock n Roll is much cleaner than my last favorite lube Dumonde Tech, which was recommended to me by the one and only Steve “Gravy” Gravinites when I worked with him at Sausalito Cyclery. Dumonde Tech collects dirt too much.


My driveline gets caked with gunk quickly in the PNW winters. I water rinse with "thumb on hose end" pressure, then flush and flush with wd40 or similar, and apply finish line wet the next morning.


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

brujenn said:


> My driveline gets caked with gunk quickly in the PNW winters. I water rinse with "thumb on hose end" pressure, then flush and flush with wd40 or similar, and apply finish line wet the next morning.


Ever try Rock in Roll? Finish Line might be collecting the PNW gunk. Just a thought.

When I lived in Oregon, I was not turned on to R n R yet, so I dont know.


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## brujenn (Nov 26, 2007)

*Not yet*



Killroy said:


> Ever try Rock in Roll? Finish Line might be collecting the PNW gunk. Just a thought.
> 
> When I lived in Oregon, I wan not turned on to R n R yet, so I dont know.


I'll give it a try. thx


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## kbiker3111 (Nov 7, 2006)

Lube is like a saddle, use the one that works for you

Boeshield for my road bikes
White Lightning for my mtb
Tri flow for just about anything that isn't a chain

I've tried prolink and rock n roll and neither worked for my purposes.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*homebrew*



hoehnt said:


> Whats your favorite?


1 part motor oil to 3 parts odorless mineral spirits. I can't notice any performance delta between this and bike-specific lubes. Its cheap and easy. Plus, life's to short to be worrying about minute differences in chain lube


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## neil0502 (Feb 11, 2005)

Killroy said:


> His chain lube was WD40 only. WD40 vary much against the grain because the myth is that WD40 is one, not a lubricant,


Yes it is.

It IS a lubricant.

It's not the BEST lubricant -- many are better -- but it's absolutely a lubricant.

Lookie-here:

http://forum.biketechreview.com/view...php?f=1&t=2211

http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/lubri...comparison.htm

Also, just peruse its MSDS. It's a lubricant (and a degreaser, cleaner, and water displacer, etc., etc.).

It has very little staying power, relative to other lubes, but ... if you use it frequently (as I might, to keep winter corrosion down, on my chains), it WILL lubricate your chain.

LONG LIVE WD :thumbsup:


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## Oldteen (Sep 7, 2005)

ProLink Gold

Cleaner than 1:3 10W30:min spirits, but more $$.

For MTB I use White Lightning- it seems to attract less trail crud.


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## lml1x (Jan 2, 2003)

Prolink, I tried a homebrew, but found that it collected a lot of dirt.


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## DavidsonDuke (Sep 12, 2006)

+1 ProLink Gold.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

+1 for RNR and PROLINK.
I have trouble with the thinner lubes. They penetrate better, but I seem to apply way too much and even after a thorough wipe-down some excess is left behind to collect dust/dirt.
I have a hard time stopping at 1 drop per roller, and seem to have the 'mind-set' if 1 drop is good, lots of drops are lots better.


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## peb307 (Feb 4, 2006)

+ 1 Dumonde Tech


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## J24 (Oct 8, 2003)

Rock & Roll Gold


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## Jeff G (Jul 22, 2005)

I've tried many different lubes, TriFlow, Ice wax, a spray product by Giant called "Liquid Silk"and none of them in my opinion are as gold as Prolink gold. When I put my new chain on a couple of months ago the wrench at the LBS suggested that I ride once with the factory lube on the new chain, then after next ride give it a good dose of Prolink and a good wipe down. I wipe the chain down after every ride and apply i drop per link every other ride. My chain looks as clean and as sparkly new as the day I bought it. I won't use any other lube other then Prolink Gold. By the way I haven't used any type of degreaser or chain cleaning machine on it and don't see any reason to.


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

DaveG said:


> 1 part motor oil to 3 parts odorless mineral spirits. I can't notice any performance delta between this and bike-specific lubes. Its cheap and easy. Plus, life's to short to be worrying about minute differences in chain lube


I never knew that people were home brewing lube. A bottle of lube is $5 and even when applied liberally following the Rock n Roll instructions, a bottle will last over 1.5 years (5-10k miles a year road and mountain). I say life is too short to home brew lube.


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## neil0502 (Feb 11, 2005)

Killroy said:


> I say life is too short to home brew lube.


Yeah ... that extra three minutes ... once a year ... is a real killer


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## Export A (Mar 18, 2007)

Prolink Gold!

Pedros dry lube on the MTB


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## Cory (Jan 29, 2004)

Stogaguy said:


> I am a dedicated "home brew" user. My personal mix is 1 part 90w gear oil and 4 parts mineral spirits.I humbly suggest editing the poll to include home brew as a seperate response choice.


ProLink. I used to use a home brew similar to this, but a bottle of ProLink lasts at least a year and costs about six bucks and I decided it wasn't worth the hassle.
Before PL, I swore by White Lightning, but I had the same rust problems in wet weather that another post mentioned.


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## WeakMite (Feb 20, 2005)

bargin bin motor oil (aggressively wiped and applied daily)


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

Another vote for Boeshield. My favorite flavor for both road and mountain bike.


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## hrstrat57 (Mar 16, 2008)

prolink gold


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## El Caballito (Oct 31, 2004)

currently using finish line wet. last for quiet a while, but can get messy if i forget to wipe before or after riding.


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## Kenacycle (May 28, 2006)

Prolink all the way!


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## smokey0066 (Mar 6, 2006)

boeshield for about 10yrs now


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## shinsplints (Oct 24, 2007)

Prolink Gold.


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## MisterMike (Aug 12, 2004)

home brew


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Life is too short. I have tried many (white lighting, prolink, boeshield, pedros) and indeed have bottles of all of then in my box. But I tried the dumonde tech stuff (the light for normal) and the green stuff on my commuter & nasty weather bikes and it is working well. 

But hey chains are cheap, I rotate mine often, and keep them all pretty clean. 

But don't take my advise because I have been known to squirt my water bottle on my chain when it starts to squeak on occassion too. 

zac

PS FWIW triflow I use on everything else but my chain, or sometimes Phil. Phil waterproof for grease, and sometimes the white lithium synthetic stuff when I want to keep the build "clean". 
I don't think I would use wd40 for anything but a cleaning solvent. But I use it to coat parts that I will be putting into storage for awhile.


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## hoehnt (Nov 7, 2008)

zac said:


> Life is too short.
> But hey chains are cheap, I rotate mine often, and keep them all pretty clean.


 i just paid $70 for mine (Campy Record)

cheap is relative I guess.


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## pr0230 (Jun 4, 2004)

*+1*



tom_h said:


> I voted "other" --
> _*DuPont Multi-Use Lubricant with Teflon*_.
> 
> DuPont part # DM0614101 (aerosol).
> ...


this stuff is like or IS bo-shield... great ... good cleaner too...


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## M__E (Apr 21, 2006)

*Wd40...*

quiet you naysayers!
(I use to be one :thumbsup but now Im a firm convert...its like anything once used in the right way...back workman tools ect...
its the easiest/best/cheapest solution...presuming you have it in the states??
degrease/clean chain, wipe off ALL excess, dries to leave a thin film (doesnt even need a seperate lubing after degreasing!) All in one... 9/10
because like everything its no magic red button!


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## M__E (Apr 21, 2006)

removed as I got something someone said a wee bit wrong...!


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## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

I use Prolink Progold too. Seems to work. I have not used any others so I cant compare.


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

ditto


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

wrong thread


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## fleck (Mar 25, 2005)

I also use boeshield t-9 now.
used many in the past, longest runner prior was tri-flo

the boeshield is a PITA but works very well. It's also expensive.

I've found what works best is to after a ride, clean the chain with a quick wipe down and apply the T-9 and let it dry.

if you do it right before a ride and don't let it dry onto it a lot is lost and doesn't get in as well as it would otherwise. 

I still don't do it as often as I should. but the stuff lasts a long time and works great.


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## jpdigital (Dec 1, 2006)

dumonde tech. It's the chain-lube version of a crack addiction. Before it I was using Finish Line dry lube w/ teflon


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## jpdigital (Dec 1, 2006)

dumonde tech. If you're complaining about how it attracts dirt that means your not using it right. You must 1st) Get the chian COMPLETELY CLEAN, that means get COMPLETELY OFF; 2) Apply to individual links and 3) Once it sets in wipe it off, Then wipe it off again before the next ride so the chain appears dry. If you do it right it's very clean, lasts a very long time and won't require re-lubing after every ride.


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

3:1 or 4:1 mineral spirits to motor oil


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## tuscanybill (Nov 20, 2005)

*Chainj*

I like Pedros stuff and Chainj is a nice easy to use easy to clean up. Does not attract too much dirt (most dirt problems are too much lube used) last a long time I lube every 200 miles, clean drive train every 600/800 miles.


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

jpdigital said:


> dumonde tech. It's the chain-lube version of a crack addiction. Before it I was using Finish Line dry lube w/ teflon



That is what I use to use until I won a bottle of Rock n Roll. The Dumonde Tech gathers dust now. After about 3 years of free Rock n Roll, I finally bought an new bottle a couple weeks ago.


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## jeff262 (Dec 19, 2005)

The podcast TriTalk (now a victim of pod fade) had a really good look at this topic. The host was incredible at finding solid research and actually found research done on chains and lubes. 

I remember some of the basics from it. They measured performance by looking at the thermal measurments of the chain. It was assumed that more friction would produce more heat and therefore lead to a higher thermal reading. What they found was fascinating. A chain run completely dry had the same thermal reading as chains with a variety of lubes (that also measured the same). 

In the end it was determined that the real function of the lube is not to lube the metal parts but instead to KEEP OUT and away the contaminants that work there way into the spaces between the moving parts. Too bad they didn't do testing after the introduction of contaminants.


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## Bob Ross (Apr 18, 2006)

ProLink Gold


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## snosaw (May 30, 2006)

Homebrew...4:1 Rotella Synthetic and Mineral Spirits.


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## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

MerlinAma said:


> ProLink Gold



Same here. Stuff is really slick and fast.


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

But the whole point of homebrew is to liberally douse your chain, not apply it drop by drop on each link. I use a water bottle.


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## daniell (Apr 12, 2002)

*Paraffin*

I have been using melted paraffin for years. Clean and cheap.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

I am now in the "home brew" category. I got tired or the mess left by the wax lubes and cleaned the drivetrain good. Decided to mix up what I had around the garage. Turned out to be a 50/50 mix of Mobil1 and Naphtha which is basically Ronson lighter fluid. Wow what a difference. I don't know about the wear factor but it sure is quieter. I'm sure it will be fine.

Thanks for the ideas.


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## maytown roadie (May 16, 2008)

I like prolink, goooood stuff.


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## woodway (Nov 28, 2008)

I give my chain a wipedown with WD40 to remove the gunk and moisture (WD stands for "Water Displacement" after all) and then use tri-flow. I've been doing this year round with both my road and mountain bike chains and have never had any chain issues.

FWIW, according to the makers of WD40, it is a light lubricant. Here is an excerpt from the FAQ at www.wd40.com:

What does WD-40 do?
WD-40 fulfills five basic functions: 
1. CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape and excess bonding material. 
2. DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits. 
3. PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts. 
4. LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts. 
5. PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.


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## chirider990 (Apr 18, 2004)

I use regular old padros ice wax however has anyone ever tried Lubriplate? I am an engineer and we use it on chains that cycle millions of times with no cleaning in a high dust environment. I am not sure if it is available in anything less than drums.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

chirider990 said:


> I use regular old padros ice wax however has anyone ever tried Lubriplate? I am an engineer and we use it on chains that cycle millions of times with no cleaning in a high dust environment. I am not sure if it is available in anything less than drums.



View attachment 150779

*LUBRIPLATE*


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## chirider990 (Apr 18, 2004)

Have you used this lube on a bike? If so what were the results?


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## gearz (Dec 30, 2007)

Finish Line XC Green. I use it year round on my road and mt. bikes. Great stuff!


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## kyler2001 (Sep 8, 2005)

hoehnt said:


> Whats your favorite?


PROLINK


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## Oldteen (Sep 7, 2005)

Mel Erickson said:


> But the whole point of homebrew is to liberally douse your chain, not apply it drop by drop on each link. I use a water bottle.


My feeling exactly. LIBERAL use flushes out the gunk-especially between links. Much easier than removing chain to clean it.


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## jcjordan (May 12, 2008)

heathb said:


> Same here. Stuff is really slick and fast.


+1. I seriously cant believe that anyone even uses the Rock and Roll stuff. its 95% liquid and if you put in on in the amounts that it suggests would not even last a month per bottle.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I think all Lubes are 95% liquid.
The lubication particles leave the chain smooth and quiet.
I use R"N"R Gold and it works great for me.
I dribble it on liberally, spin chain, wipe down.
I only use it on FG, so can't address derailleur set-up, but a bottle seems to last a long time, and my chain is quiet and picks up little dirt.
I lube and wipe every ride. Takes 15 seconds on FG.
Happy New Year!
John


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## Killroy (Feb 9, 2006)

jcjordan said:


> +1. I seriously cant believe that anyone even uses the Rock and Roll stuff. its 95% liquid and if you put in on in the amounts that it suggests would not even last a month per bottle.


I have used 2 bottles of Rock n Roll for 3 years. That is probably about 23,000 miles of Road and Mountain biking. 

I'm going to try the ProLink because that is what I got for Chanukah.


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## lalahsghost (Aug 27, 2007)

One of my MTB buddies has been doing the chain + jar + shake method for about a year or so now, and something tragic has happened. The jar shattered while he was shaking (I don't know how much agitation he was using) and made a DEEP incision into his right palm, next to his thumb. May I suggest Peanut Butter jars or something else....? I doubt it is common thing but still....


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## M__E (Apr 21, 2006)

lalahsghost said:


> One of my MTB buddies has been doing the chain + jar + shake method for about a year or so now, and something tragic has happened. The jar shattered while he was shaking (I don't know how much agitation he was using) and made a DEEP incision into his right palm, next to his thumb. May I suggest Peanut Butter jars or something else....? I doubt it is common thing but still....


why not add, "also make sure you're not standing in a pool of water and have a toaster dangling over it while performing the operation" or "make sure you dont have one leg tied to horse and then whip it to run off"
GOD if your friend does something really dumb (shaking a metal object in a glass jar so hard that it breaks) dont assume the rest of us are as thick!


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

lalahsghost said:


> One of my MTB buddies has been doing the chain + jar + shake method for about a year or so now, and something tragic has happened. The jar shattered while he was shaking (I don't know how much agitation he was using) and made a DEEP incision into his right palm, next to his thumb. May I suggest Peanut Butter jars or something else....? I doubt it is common thing but still....


My recommendation for cleaning a chain this way is to drop the chain into a large PLASTIC Soda Bottle, add OMS, and you can shake it probably as hard/long as you want and then pour the OMS off and repeat a second time. To fish the clean chain out reach in with a spoke and hook it with the head. A bent coat hanger will work also, but the spoke seems so 'Bike'. There are also wide mouth plastic bottles that would work and you can probably just 'pour' the chain out.
I usually save the dirty OMS in another large container and let the sediment settle out and reuse/decant the top clean liquid.


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## toaster (Sep 14, 2009)

It seems like I research this topic to death.

1. A clean chain is the most important factor in long service life.
2. Chains are very efficient. 98.6% efficient and that's with no lubrication!
3. A chain lube's best qualities is to not attract dirt and then to provide a barrier to contamination.
4. A clean chain with the least amount of lubricating film is the best.

Therefore, a bath in solvent followed by a degreasing in Simple Green then compressed air or dry toweling of the chain to get chain as dry as possible. Then lightly lubricate and dry some more.

Best product sans hype: good ol' 3 in 1 oil.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

Chain-L #5

Finally got to get some rides in on my bike with the Chain-L on it, and it's freakin' sweet!


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## jtsk (Mar 6, 2002)

*Chain-L*



PlatyPius said:


> Chain-L #5
> 
> Finally got to get some rides in on my bike with the Chain-L on it, and it's freakin' sweet!



+1 on Chain-L By far the best stuff I've ever used.


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## cthomas5200 (Feb 11, 2010)

*Try a contact lens solution bottle*

I keep the old sample bottles. They work great for home brew. The nozzle is just about the right size.


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## walrus (Jan 29, 2004)

ProLink Gold


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## JimP (Dec 18, 2001)

+100 for ProLink Gold


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## OperaLover (Jan 20, 2002)

*Another Home Brew vote*

3 parts OMS to 1 part Amsoil synthetic 10W-30.


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## Dutch77 (Jan 3, 2009)

Chain-L. Tried it out based on some of the reviews and very happy with it so far.


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## MTBMaven (Dec 17, 2005)

Dumonde Tech Original or Lite depending on the season.


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## michel (Sep 25, 2005)

Prolink.


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## biker (Apr 2, 2004)

Prolink Gold - Buy 32oz bottle - lasts 6-7 yrs and most cost effective.

I found home brew does not keep chain as clean. I do use home brew while using trainer.


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## haziz (May 5, 2013)

Tri-flow Superior Lubricant.


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## Yukikaze (Oct 24, 2012)

Progold Xtreme


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

Of the lubes I have tried so far I like Rock n Roll gold the best - cleans and lubes in one step and doesn't turn black quick, seems to last a while too.


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## Goforit (Dec 7, 2011)

Once you try Chain-L you will never use anything else!


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

The first two are junk lubes, yeah you won't get black stuff on your hands but they don't protect the chain because their not a lube their wax. The proof in the pudding is that those two lubes only last about 70 to 80 miles before the chain starts making noise and where there is noise there is wear, so on longer rides you better take a bottle of that wax crap so you can relube your chain or the chain won't last as long.

There are plenty of good lubes out there like Finish Line Teflon Dry, Chain-L, Pro Link, Tri Flow, Rock and Roll, and a few others.


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## lbkwak (Feb 22, 2012)

Goforit said:


> Once you try Chain-L you will never use anything else!


Zombie thread.

That's because you haven't tried Dupont Chain Saver and WD-40 Dry.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

Iv'e just started using WD40 dry. Just done 600 miles in Mallorca, perfectly dry conditions.
Lubed the chain three times, I think this might be a winner, when I twist the chain between my fingers it feels good. So far very impressed.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

giosblue said:


> Iv'e just started using WD40 dry. Just done 600 miles in Mallorca, perfectly dry conditions.
> Lubed the chain three times, I think this might be a winner, when I twist the chain between my fingers it feels good. So far very impressed.


All WD40 Dry is another PTFE oil, which is found in Tri Flow, Finish Line Teflon Dry, and a slew of others, so they haven't done anything miraculous.


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## Jeepdude (Nov 12, 2011)

Rock n Roll Gold...nothin' but


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Then you are probably not doing right. I have yet to hear any noise after I cleaned and white lightning-ed my chain in March. I'm approaching 500 miles. If you put several coats on and let it dry after each coat, the protection will be long lasting.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> Then you are probably not doing right. I have yet to hear any noise after I cleaned and white lightning-ed my chain in March. I'm approaching 500 miles. If you put several coats on and let it dry after each coat, the protection will be long lasting.


I don't about others but I have tried many coats to no avail. Wax is not a lube. Even the former bike guru Sheldon Brown was against wax; see: Chain Maintenance

I use to use wax in the old days of melting paraffin wax and dropping the chain into it and even after doing that it would last about 200 miles and was a huge pain to do. I even tried adding Slick 50 which contained Teflon to the wax and nothing happened. I did hear later that mixing 3 to 4 candle sticks to one pack of Graphite worked really well but I never tried it nor do I want the hassle, maybe someone here can try it and tell us later how it went.

Generally though lubes containing teflon will last longer as will the chain. When I made my first switch from melting wax to TriFlow my chain life doubled, that cinched the deal for me. Then later when those wax in a bottle lubes came out and the LBS's were pushing it like crazy I decided to try them, my chain life dropped no matter which brand I tired, as soon as I went to a dry non wax based lube the chains lasted longer. 

However, whatever lube you use is your thing, if you're happy with the wax based stuff then stay with it. I stay away from wax because of my personal experiences.


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

I think riding condition, climate and terrain have a lot to do with our different results. I do not ride if it's wet outside, unless I happen to get caught in a scattered storm like last week. There aren't much long incline hills around here, thus I don't put a lot of tension nor shift often when climbing short inclines. I think these factors keep the wax on the chain longer.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

While dry conditions do keep wax on longer, but I lived in the Mojave Desert of California, you can't get much drier then that! And my second try at wax was when I lived there and the chain would start to make noise after about 70 miles of riding, so to go on longer rides I needed to take a bottle of lube with me?!


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Hmm, I don't know what the explanation is. Seem like when you used to dip your chain in paraffin wax, it would gave a good coating in all the joints. Though I do agree wax itself isn't good enough unless your mixed Teflon with it as you mentioned. Seen like that would do the trick. Btw, are you aware White Lightning mades 3 different lube(Epic, Clean & Wet)?


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> Hmm, I don't know what the explanation is. Seem like when you used to dip your chain in paraffin wax, it would gave a good coating in all the joints. Though I do agree wax itself isn't good enough unless your mixed Teflon with it as you mentioned. Seen like that would do the trick. Btw, are you aware White Lightning mades 3 different lube(Epic, Clean & Wet)?


I wasn't aware of the Epic but the Epic and the Wet according to the internet is not a wax lube.

Last month I bought a new bottle of Finish Line Teflon dry and something weird happened, I don't know if they changed the ingredients or what; but I clean my chain like I always do, applied the lube and let it dry, then reapplied and let it dry like I've done for years with this stuff. Then I went for a ride, first ride no problem chain was quiet, second ride toward the end it started to make noise, I thought what the heck? I got the bike home and checked the chain for wear it was good, so I recleaned the chain and relubed it, about 70 to 80 miles later it started to make noise! This lube never started to make noise before right up till I cleaned the chain at around 200 miles. I did this on another bike I have to see what heck was going on and the same thing happened after two cleanings and relubings, 70 to 80 miles of use and noise develops. I may be dropping the Finish Line product after this. I have some Pro Link coming to me with my new bike so I'll try that and see what happens.

I've always liked the idea of wax lubes because it does keep the chain clean to the touch, no black fingers or marks on clothing, but I've found after years of using various kinds it just doesn't last...at least for me, not sure why that would be different from anyone else.

Speaking of Pro Link lube, does that keep the chain clean like wax or does it turn black and black to the touch like other oil based lubes?


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

My personal experience with ProLink is that it does turn black after usage. It is not like gunk or sledge forming on the chain, but more like used motor oil. I'm sure the result will vary to some degree for someone else.


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

Made the switch to WD40 Bike Dry Lube, very pleased with the product at this point.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> My personal experience with ProLink is that it does turn black after usage. It is not like gunk or sledge forming on the chain, but more like used motor oil. I'm sure the result will vary to some degree for someone else.


Thanks, I may use that for my other bikes, but I'm still out on a limb for the new bike as to what to use. 

This lube stuff is confusing to say the least. Velo News did a test a while back showing that waxed base lubes had less friction then oil based which threw Lennard Zinn for a loop too. But one comment from a reader suggested that the results may have been skewed so Zinn was going to look into it and do his own testing which I haven't seen the results of that. So even for Zinn there is a lot of confusion. Maybe recently wax based lubes have improved their game?


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

What is the cost for a bottle?


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

Ditto...the best stuff out there, IMHO...



MerlinAma said:


> ProLink Gold


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## stevoo (Oct 26, 2011)

Used a lot of different chain lubes over the years.

Road bikes
Currently using Chain L. Lasts a long time. Stays fairly clean. Quiet drivetrain. Low chain wear. Not so much fun to apply. Really need to wipe it down good after the 1st application. Pretty easy to keep clean after that.

Mountain bikes
Toughest to find a lube that I like. Tried a bunch over the years. Currently using Rock and Roll Gold with reasonable results. Long rides and dust are my challenges during this time of year. Always looking for something better. Tried waxes, dry lubes, wet lubes, home brews etc. Considering trying the new WD bike product.


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