# Help understanding Road Bike Components



## incognito_54 (Sep 12, 2007)

Hello's
I have some basic questions as regards road bikes. There possibly might be a sticky on the forums on this, if so, please guide me that way. If not, your input to my questions below will be much appreciated.

I'm looking to get into road biking and trying to understand differences in technologies in use.
For example - 

Frames - How many types of frame are there? Which frames are better, or are frames suited for type of riding one will be doing?
Gearing: How many gears do most road bikes come with? For example: If you lived in a very hilly area would one get the same gears as say someone who lived in a relatively flat area?
Chain - Is there anything to the chain, or is the chain a chain?
Wheels - what should one look for in wheels?
Shimano/Ultegra/Dura-Ace - When these terms are mentioned what do they refer to, and how do they affect the bike you end up geting?

many thanks,
Blue.


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## lx93 (Jun 14, 2007)

incognito_54 said:


> Frames - How many types of frame are there? Which frames are better, or are frames suited for type of riding one will be doing?
> Gearing: How many gears do most road bikes come with? For example: If you lived in a very hilly area would one get the same gears as say someone who lived in a relatively flat area?
> Shimano/Ultegra/Dura-Ace - When these terms are mentioned what do they refer to, and how do they affect the bike you end up geting?


Welcome to the world of very subjective and very opinionated items.

Frames- 
Carbon is light, and absorbs road buzz, but is expensive, and some feel that you can't trust it after the bike has been wrecked.
Aluminum (beer can) is light, affordable, but has a little bit more road buzz.
Steel is fading from the scene, but has its adherents cuz it gives a good, smooth ride and is very durable.
Titanium is found on very high-end bikes, is light, very strong, but very expensive. Most people w/ $$$ prefer to spend it on carbon.

Gearing:
Most definitely a difference for flat-landers & riders near mountains.
On the chain ring (thing your feet turn), lower #'s means easier (refers to the # of teeth on the ring). As your strength increases, you may want to go higher.
A "compact" ring is usually something like 50/36; "regular" rings are usually something like 53/39."
"Triples" have 3 rings to make it easier to climb steep hills.
On the "cassette" (thing on the rear wheel), it's the opposite- an 11/25 is for something w/ lots of strength, a 12/28 is for a beginner or someone who climbs a lot of hills.

Shimano, Campagnolo & SRAM are the 3 main component (brakes, gears, shifters, etc.) manufacturers.
Shimano:
Dura-Ace (highest quality, $$$$$$$)
Ultegra (almost Dura-Ace quality)
105 (next level)
Tiagra (still good, quality stuff)
Sora (entry-level)
Campagnolo is more expensive than Shimano, but some feel it lasts longer & is easier to shift. Having owned a bike w/ Campy Mirage Ergopower shifters for 10 years, and test-ridden a bike yesterday w/ Shimano 105, I'd place myself in this category.
Campy components:
High-end are Chorus, Record
Mirage (2nd from lowest)
There are some other Campy levels which I'm forgetting.

That's all the time I have to post right now, hope that's a good start!


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Here's hoping*



incognito_54 said:


> Frames - How many types of frame are there? Which frames are better, or are frames suited for type of riding one will be doing?


First off, I sure hope this isn't a troll, or I'll feel just plain silly 

There are 4 standard frame materials: 1) various alloys of steel, 2) various alloys of aluminum, 3) various alloys of titanium, and 4) various construction styles of carbon fiber reinforced epoxy (often refered to as CF frames). In any of these material choices, there are a wide range of geometries that give variations of ride characteristics, handling, comfort, etc. There are a number of construction techniques (how the tubes are joined together) and there are a number of mixed material frames.

The best frames are those which are properly designed and constructed for their intended use. If you want to exclusively do time trials, then you get a TT frame. For touring, you get a touring frame. And so on. You have asked a VERY broad question.



incognito_54 said:


> Gearing: How many gears do most road bikes come with? For example: If you lived in a very hilly area would one get the same gears as say someone who lived in a relatively flat area?


Most road bikes today come with a theoretical 20 gears (10 cogs in the rear and 2 chainrings in the front) though there tend to be duplicates and unusable gears. Touring bikes and "sport touring" bikes often come with 27 or 30 gears (3 x9 or 3 x 10). It's not the number of gears, but the range of lowest to highest and the uniformity of the gear ratio changes between gears that are important. What is appropriate depends on your terrain and your abilities.



incognito_54 said:


> Chain - Is there anything to the chain, or is the chain a chain?


Within reason, you pay more money for lighter weight and better materials, but there is not a huge difference between brand name chains.




incognito_54 said:


> Wheels - what should one look for in wheels?


Another VERY broad question. A lot of people obsess over low weight wheels, and then complain that they have durability problems. A lot of people lust after the bling that they associate with boutique wheels, and pay a few $100 more for performance that is no different than a good set of hand built wheels. You can trade off weight, price, and durability - good, fast, cheap: pick any two (or sometimes one). Again, the wheels should be suited to the purpose.




incognito_54 said:


> Shimano/Ultegra/Dura-Ace - When these terms are mentioned what do they refer to, and how do they affect the bike you end up geting?


Shimano is one brand of components. Dura Ace is their top of the line group, Ultegra is next. Campagnolo and SRAM are two other brands, though Shimano has the largest market share. There are also a number of smaller companies that may make only one or two components (just cranks, or just hubs, or just brakes). The cost of a bike is the combination of the components and the frame, and usually the higher end components end up on the higher priced frames. Each component group has a typical "price point" range when included in a complete bike.


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## z ken (Dec 30, 2006)

well, first Frame or skeleton of your bike is the second most important part of the bike ( wheels is abviously is # 1, no question about it ) there're usually 4 kind od frames: carbon, Aluminum, steel and titanum. most of " pros " today ride carbon b/c it's it's really light and stiff ( of course very expensive for some of us " non-pros" or beginner ) Alum/steel are cheaper and heavier while titanum is light but often lack stiffness. also heavier riders tends want alum/steel while climbers want carbon/titanum. of course these are just " basic " guidline.

Wheels: this's the part you want to pay most of your attention ( read: spend most of your money on ) a pair of good wheels can make a big different even with " average frame and drivetain ". then there're two type of wheels-Tubulars and clincher. tubulars usually lighter and rolls faster ( again more expensive and hard to repair when flats ) while clincher is cheaper and easily repair upon a flats.

drivetain: it's the least important of three. as you can pedals and shift, then you're good to go b/c between the top ( Shimano's D/A and 105 is just a weight saving while D/A shift smoothly but unless you're racing or pros, it's NOT worth to pay $ 1 k pricetage )

gearing: usually " double " is good for most of us. double mean 53/39 on the crank. cassette?? 9 or 10 speed are good enough with sprocket running between 11/21-23 for flat/small hills area and 12/25-27-even 29 for those who climb steep mountain or live in a hilly area. san Francisco would fit the bill. chain?? make sure they match your cassette/crank. ex: Ultegra crank/cassette to go ultegra chain for a smooth shifting. " triple " mean you've three gear in your crank ( 53-39-34 ) and lately the hot trend: compact ( 50-34/36 ) for those who like to climb but don't want triple on their crank.


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## denmikseb (Aug 7, 2005)

A chain is not just a chain anymore. I'm not real sure of the specifics, but for example an 8 speed chain will not work on a 10 speed cassette (I believe).


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## incognito_54 (Sep 12, 2007)

First off, thanks to all for the quick responses. 
I have follow up questions, and no this is not a troll..i'm for real  Forgive me if my questions sound ultra dumb. Trying to make an informed decision eventually.

IX93 said this about chain rings...... "A "compact" ring is usually something like 50/36; "regular" rings are usually something like 53/39."......Still trying to understand the number of teeth. So, what would be the difference between 50/36 & 53/39. What do these numbers actually refer to? Does the 50 refer to something and the 39 to something else?

Kerry Irons also said this ... " it's not the number of gears, but the range of lowest to highest and the uniformity of the gear ratio changes between gears that are important. What is appropriate depends on your terrain and your abilities....."

Could you please expound on the Its not the number of gears, but the range statement? also, how much does it affect ones riding whether you get a tripple or a double?

I was also looking online at different bikes and these stats confused me. What would be the difference between these 2 bikes? One has 30spd vs. 20spd, and the cassette seems to be different too. How do they compare?

BIKE 1
Derailleurs RR/FR Shimano Ultegra 6600 rear / Shimano 6600 10 Speed (30 Spd total) front
Shifters/Levers Shimano Ultegra 6600 10 Speed STI (30 speed total)
Cassette/Chain Shimano 10 Speed 12-27T, Shimano CN5600 105 10spd Chain

BIKE 2
Derailleurs Shimano 6600 Ultegra 10 Speed (20 Spd total) front and rear
Shifters/Levers Shimano 6600 Ultegra 10 Speed STI (20 Speed total)
Cassette/Chain Shimano 6600 Ultegra 10 Speed 11-25T, Shimano CNHG6600 Ultegra 10spd Chain

I think that with all the reading i've done tonight on the topic will leave me somewhat informed.
again, thanks for your time.
Blue.


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## denmikseb (Aug 7, 2005)

*They are about the same, except*

for the 20/30 speed difference. The 20 doesn't have as low a range for hills as the 30, though many ride in hills with a 20 (or less). It would also be more suitable for racing than the 30. I have a 30, it is great on the hills (for me), and also in strong headwinds. The 20 has 2 chairings, the 30 has 3. I do a lot of fitness riding using a heartrate monitor, and find I sometimes need the extra low of the 30 to keep my heartrate in the limits I have set for that particular ride.


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## Lifelover (Jul 8, 2004)

incognito_54 said:


> First off, thanks to all for the quick responses.
> I have follow up questions, and no this is not a troll..i'm for real  Forgive me if my questions sound ultra dumb. Trying to make an informed decision eventually.
> 
> IX93 said this about chain rings...... "A "compact" ring is usually something like 50/36; "regular" rings are usually something like 53/39."......Still trying to understand the number of teeth. So, what would be the difference between 50/36 & 53/39. What do these numbers actually refer to? Does the 50 refer to something and the 39 to something else?
> ...


You write way to good to have these questions.


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## z ken (Dec 30, 2006)

54: i think option 2 should be good enough for you. with 11 sprocket ( 11-25 cassette ) you're ensure you'll get a gear for sprinting ( if you're strong enough ) and with 25th sprocket you should able to climb every hill that's below 10% gradient ( gradient is the measurement of difficulty of climbs ) anyway go with option 2 if you must make a choice. remember you can always sell your cassette and get 12-27 or better yet sell your crank ( double, 53/39 ) and get a compact ( 50/36 ). with compact 50/36 and 11/25 cassette, it's BETTER than having triple and 13/27 AND WITHOUT carrying those " extra weights ". hopefully this would help. of course ultimately it's your decision. GL and let us know what you choose.


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## incognito_54 (Sep 12, 2007)

Thanks to all the folks who have responded to my questions.
A question in response to denmiskeb: You mentioned the 20 would be more suitable to racing than the 30, which would be more suitable for climbs. I think i can see how the 30 offers more options to down shift while climbing, what i'm confused about is what will the 20 do that the 30 wont when it comes to racing/sprinting? what would make a 20 better while sprinting than a 30 would?
thanks


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## z ken (Dec 30, 2006)

very simple; unless you're climbing Mt. Everett ( can't anyway ) you won't need 30 speed. hate to say this but 30 speeed is for " weak " riders. mostly " older " riders use them since they can't ride in the big gear. like i said 20 speed is more than enough for 95% of cyclists. the only question you want 53/39 ( standard ) or compact 50/36. cassette: 11/23 ( for flat/little hill ) or 12/25-27 ( hilly/mountain ). when in doubt go with compact, it " helps " you climb better/easier and still fast enough for sprinting.


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## lx93 (Jun 14, 2007)

incognito_54 said:


> "A "compact" ring is usually something like 50/36; "regular" rings are usually something like 53/39."......Still trying to understand the number of teeth. So, what would be the difference between 50/36 & 53/39. What do these numbers actually refer to? Does the 50 refer to something and the 39 to something else?
> 
> Could you please expound on the Its not the number of gears, but the range statement? also, how much does it affect ones riding whether you get a tripple or a double?


In 50/36 & 53/39, the 50 & 53 refer to the # of teeth that the larger ring (the crank that the pedals turn) has. The 36 & 39 refer to the # of teeth that the smaller ring has.

You use the smaller ring when you're going slow or just starting out. The larger ring is for when you've built up speed & want to go faster.

As far as gear range vs. # of gears, that refers to the back wheel, or "cassette". An 11-28 gives you more flexibility than a 12-25 because you have more options to suit whatever terrain you're riding in. 

Remember, on the cassette, things are reversed from the crank. The lower the teeth, the harder it is to turn- 11 or 12 are for when you're already going fast & want to go faster. 25 or 28 are for when you're starting out, facing a strong wind or want to go up a hill, etc.

Cassettes generally come in 8, 9 or 10 speeds.


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