# 1988 Peugeot Nice



## UtahBloke (Aug 3, 2011)

What do you guys think of the value of this bike? I want it baaad, but i don't know if 250 is too much or too little. 501 Reynolds. thanks guys.

Bicycles: Road Bikes Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.com


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The add says ti. Regardless, Reynolds is a nice tubeset.

Hard to put a value on a bike like that. Normally, I'd slot a bike that age into the $100-$200 range, depending on condition and how nice the build is.

Titanium's got a bit of a cachet. However, you're also going to be stuck with 1988 frame specs. That means a 1" threaded headset, probably 126mm dropouts (no idea if ti can be cold set) and if they intended it for the American market, 27" wheels. None of this stuff is impossible to work with, but it adds to a little extra wrinkle to maintenance. Everything you need to maintain an '88 bike is still available from any bike shop, although sometimes a little more challenging - finding a complete rear wheel that's not garbage is harder, for example.

What are you going to be doing with the bike? Mechanically, if there's nothing wrong with the bike, it's going to be about 99% as efficient as a contemporary bike. But integrated shifters are really nice, and if you're doing fast group rides and competition, that translates into being a little better able to match other riders' accelerations and play with your gear ratio on climbs.

Sorry if that doesn't help you with the price very much. Ultimately, these things are worth what a buyer and a seller agree they're worth. I think if a shop around me was selling it, it would be for more than $250, but also in very well-restored condition - so no mechanical problems, clean, etc. Which is what the picture suggests.


----------



## UtahBloke (Aug 3, 2011)

I was gonna add a new wheel build to it and learn to cycle. Nothing competitive, just to get the heart racing and drop more lbs. Right now I have a hybrid bike. I just thought something cheap would be great to start into the drop bar world.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I wouldn't spend $250 on a bike if there was something wrong with the wheels. At least, not a late '80s bike, even a very nice one.

If you can move your period forward to the early 90s (post-1992, give-or-take,) cross-compatibility with contemporary parts will be better. I'd be looking for something with at least an 8-speed cassette. That will make contemporary wheels drop right in, and give you a lot of flexibility about swapping drivetrain parts. You're still stuck with a 1" headset, but that standard didn't change in road bikes until the early 2000s, and those bikes, if in decent shape and with a nice build, are likely to be relatively more expensive.

It's harder to fit a road bike than a hybrid bike. Or rather, there's a much higher degree of good fit possible with a road bike if you get it right. It's helpful if you can test ride several road bikes. I think used or consignment from a shop that carries used bikes is a great way to go because it does give you the opportunity to try several road bikes back to back. If you can get some guidance, either from a friend or a shop employee if you can find a used bike shop that's better about fit than guestimating based on your height and standover clearance, that's some real value-added.

I'm not necessarily saying not to buy that bike. If the wheels thing was just vanity (and you can get over it) and the ones on the bike are actually fine and it's in great mechanical shape and it fits you, it could still be a good choice. Certainly a well-fitting late-80s bike would be a great bike to ride for fitness.

Alternately, consider folding the wheels money back into the initial purchase budget, and look for something post-2000. Modern headsets are nice and it's easier to find parts and also, I think, easier to fit a bike with one, and integrated shifters, while not necessary for your use, are certainly convenient.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I think Andrew's pretty much covered the 'mechanical' aspects of owning/ upgrading older bikes. As far as pricing, I agree that it pretty much comes down to what it's worth to the buyer and what they intend it for. By that I mean, you could soak far more into this bike than you'd ever see back, but (more or less) ridden 'as is' you may very well get your $250 back in enjoyment, and then some. 

FWIW, I'd keep upgrades to a minimum, so my suggestion - assuming they're functional, keep the wheels. If needed get new rim strips, tubes, tires (new 27" can still be found), do a general lubing (or have your LBS do the work) and go ride.

That said, we have to take a step back and talk sizing/ fit, because no matter the price paid, a bike has to fit well for you to want to keep riding it. If you haven't already done so, I suggest going to check it, test ride it and (if interested) consider asking the seller to have the bike checked over mechanically and your fit assessed. The LBS may or may not charge, but I'd consider this an investment. 

IMO the seller is misleading folks by using the 'ti' designation. In 1928, when Reynolds Tube Co., Ltd. was acquired by Tube Investments, Ltd., it became TI Reynolds 531 Ltd. There may be a similar name designation on the frame. 
Reynolds Cycle Technology - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have shades of retro-grouch in me, so I can relate to the_ I want it baaad _draw this bike has, but as with most things, there are compromises that go with it. Bottom line is you have to either accept those compromises and go with this bike (or similar) or explore some of the other (good) options mentioned.


----------



## UtahBloke (Aug 3, 2011)

Thanks guys. I want a steel road frame that i can do some workouts with 20 to 30 mile rides a few times a week. I just figured the bike was cheap and steel. I didn't figure in compatibility with newer parts. I need a wheel build because i'm a heavy rider. I figure I can spend more on the wheel build and less on the bike to sort of keep my budget teetering on level.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UtahBloke said:


> Thanks guys. I want a steel road frame that i can do some workouts with 20 to 30 mile rides a few times a week. I just figured the bike was cheap and steel. I didn't figure in compatibility with newer parts. I need a wheel build because i'm a heavy rider. I figure I can spend more on the wheel build and less on the bike to sort of keep my budget teetering on level.


Sound logic, IMO. 

Hard to tell from pics, but that wheelset looks to have a pretty high spoke count. More than that matters re: durability, but it's a start. Another reason you may want an LBS to advise, pre-purchase.


----------



## Tucson_2011 (Nov 10, 2011)

Looks like a nice bike in great condition but $250 seems a little high, probably was around $400 new, maybe more if those are Campy components. Those wheels look like Quasar rims. Go look at the bike, it has to fit you or it doesn't matter how much he wants for it. Do you know what size frame you need?


----------



## UtahBloke (Aug 3, 2011)

The spoke count is 36h which might work for me since i get my wheels built in a 36h. The owner says the bike fit is a M/L and he is 6'2". I'm 6-6'1" and ride a 56cm. The only problem for test riding is, he is more than an hour drive from me. Well, he says people have been offering him 300 to 450, but since I got at him first he's willing to do 250. I might pass on this. I was thinking "steel'' maybe i should save the 250 and save for a Gunnar roadie and put on my father in law's old components on it.


----------



## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> The add says ti. Regardless, Reynolds is a nice tubeset.
> 
> Hard to put a value on a bike like that. Normally, I'd slot a bike that age into the $100-$200 range, depending on condition and how nice the build is.
> 
> ...


The ad doesn't say ti. Ti Reynolds was a trade name back in the 1980's. I think it stood for a partnership between Reynolds tubing and another manufacturer just like Raleigh bicycles sometimes used the name Ti Raleigh.


----------



## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

UtahBloke said:


> What do you guys think of the value of this bike? I want it baaad, but i don't know if 250 is too much or too little. 501 Reynolds. thanks guys.
> 
> Bicycles: Road Bikes Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.com


To the OP, depending on what your financial situation is I would just buy the bike and keep it as it, I would not change a thing on it except the things that wear out like tires, brake pads, chains, cogs, etc. From the photo this looks to be a great bike and a wonderful example of when people who actually knew how to build bikes built them and not some $10,000 plastic piece of garbage made in a mold somewhere in China and ridden by Fred's and posers with a limited lifespan and the first time the bike gets damaged it has to be thrown away and you see your entire investment riding away in the back of a trash truck.

From the photo the parts do not look like Campy and if they were that bike would be an absolute steal even at $400. My first pro bike was a Raleigh Pro Mk4 with full Campy Super Record and to this day I deeply regret selling it. Back then bikes had heart, soul and personality were a thing of beauty to look at as well as to ride. My advice, FWITW would be to buy the bike, ride it and enjoy it I guarantee you will turn heads every time you take it out.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

RoadBoy1 said:


> The ad doesn't say ti. Ti Reynolds was a trade name back in the 1980's. I think it stood for a partnership between Reynolds tubing and another manufacturer just like Raleigh bicycles sometimes used the name Ti Raleigh.


The ad states 'ti Reynolds _tubing_', which leads one to believe it's ti tubing, and it's not.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UtahBloke said:


> The spoke count is 36h which might work for me since i get my wheels built in a 36h. The owner says the bike fit is a M/L and he is 6'2". I'm 6-6'1" and ride a 56cm. The only problem for test riding is, he is more than an hour drive from me. Well, he says people have been offering him 300 to 450, but since I got at him first he's willing to do 250. I might pass on this. I was thinking "steel'' maybe i should save the 250 and save for a Gunnar roadie and put on my father in law's old components on it.


As I mentioned earlier, the durability of a wheel hinges on more than just spoke count. If you're serious about it, I think you need to go see it in person, ride it and assess both mechanical condition and fit.

Look over the rims (around the spoke holes) for cracks, but given the age of the bike (and depending on total rider weight) they might suite your needs.

On the topic of Gunnars and building a bike, I would also consider a Soma Smoothie/ ES. They'll run about $500 less than a Gunnar and weigh about 1/2 lb. more, but you're not aiming for weight weenie status. So, something else to consider.


----------



## jamesdak (Aug 22, 2010)

It is a nice enough bike but as others have said, step up a bit in age and get a better deal. I've purchased several good bikes off of KSL myself, always a good selection if you take your time. I've managed to get 2001 LeMond Zurich with a full ultegra setup for only a little more than what they are asking for the Peugeot. Same for the 1999 Schwinn Circuit I picked up with a full 105 setup. Both of these had STI shifters and such so pretty much up to modern standards. Even picked up a sweet excellent condition 2003 Kona Jake the Snake for a song off of KSL. I'd say give it a month, have the cash ready, and just keep looking for a better deal. The really good deals go fast so you have to be ready with the cash to act fast. Of course, all that said. I had a wonderful Peugeot while living in Germany in the 80s. Loved that bike and rode it all over the place. If I could justify another bike I'd be considering this one also.


----------



## mtnroadie (Jul 6, 2010)

If you want it baaad, buy it, before someone else does.

I have missed many fine bikes because I was fussing over "true" value and protecting my ego from getting ripped off. Now if i want something i get it, i have no problem paying asking price and sometimes more if its worth it. 

Trust me you wont be crying about the extra $ you paid when you are riding it. Where I live that will sell for $250 all day long. If you can... haggle.


----------



## EHietpas (Feb 9, 2012)

I picked up a nice Specialized 1990 Sirrus in good condition with all 105 components. The components alone are the $250


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I've been busy the last couple days.

I didn't think that Reynolds had done ti tubesets, so interesting to read about where that designation came from. It's still a very nice tubeset.

I'm a pretty honest person, but I have to say that if I was offered $450 for a bike I was selling... I might give you the chance to match it, but if you hadn't actually committed to buying it, I'd probably go ahead and sell it to the high bidder. I feel like if someone's hemming and hawing and thinking about something - not committing to me that they'll buy it - then I owe them nothing. Which leads me to question whether he's been offered $450.

Regardless, I don't think it's worth that. I gave my friend $450 for an '06 Portland with Rival components. Granted, he was giving me a little better price because we're friends, but it wasn't a crazy price either and I probably paid him better than he'd have been able to get via a shop.

Personally, I don't think saving and building up a Gunnar or a Soma is the way to go either. Maybe for a second bike, when you have "your" handlebars and "your" drivetrain and "your" saddle, etc. etc., and it doesn't make sense to buy a complete when you'll replace everything anyway. For now, if you want steel, fine. Get a complete steel bike.

Jamis makes a few. Specialized does the Allez steel. Surly's Pacer is now available as a complete. I'm confident I'm missing a few, and those are just retail bikes. If $250 has to do with what you can afford, I think you're on the right track with used. If you want that bike and it fits you, it's fine for your intended purpose and while I think $250 might be a little high, it's not too bad. (And it's at least clean, which often says something about the mechanical condition.)

Maybe you already bought something, you haven't posted in two days...


----------



## UtahBloke (Aug 3, 2011)

I just want to get into something with more of a road edge. To dip my toe in the water and get a feel of the experience before I commit. If I commit I want to work into it all. On top of all that I want to know what I'm doing too. I figure getting my hands dirty. Adding, fixing, repairing will help me


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Let go of steel and your price range expands tremendously.

Maybe it's because my first real road bike was steel anyway, and by happenstance, but I don't see it as being that big a deal. Certainly not compared to appropriate tire selection and pressure.

You've already got a bike. Go ahead and commit with this one. If your real number is $250, that's fine. There are plenty of used bikes out there, and you can get something decent for that price. If your real number is more, I'd encourage you to spend that. People who underspend seem to end up back here asking about "upgrades" within weeks.

If you have no special desire for this bike, or another classic bike, I'd also encourage you to go a little newer.

Basically, figure out what your real priorities are here and don't get distracted by things that aren't. Then, commit to what your real priorities dictate. If it's about riding, and not about the bike itself, IMO the lowest cost of ownership both in terms of money and time spent on maintenance, is going to be an early- to mid-90s bike that's been reasonably well cared for. The only things that are really important in terms of riding are that it fit you and that the geometry not have something actively and extremely weird about it. That's it. There are a ton of materials bikes are made out of. As long as nothing's actually broken, it's not that important. There are a few different drivetrain layouts. Most of them can be relatively easily made to include enough gears unless you're either Thor Hushovd or you live someplace very hilly. So, to me, the way to go here is to look for something that fits you, that's in good mechanical shape now, and that has a modern enough build to be easy to maintain.

After my last couple older bikes, I've decided I'm done owning anything from before the takeover of 8-speed cassettes. (Also with anything that's cheap enough new to have a freewheel. Yuck.) I now have both SRAM and Shimano bikes. I guess I'd prefer to keep my competition bikes Shimano, but they both work fine and I switch back and forth no problem. I have both steel and aluminum bikes, and both steel and carbon forks. I don't think I can tell the difference. But a bike that doesn't fit me is actually painful to ride.


----------



## Christopaul (Jan 27, 2012)

I just sold a blue 80's something Peugeot single speed conversion. The fit was ok, and I thought with a few tweaks I could dial it in perfectly....I wanted to use a different saddle which required changing the seat post, how hard could that be? This seat post is something like a 25.3. I now have a collection of odd sized seat posts (I wasnt able to use any of them). If you want to change anything, the stem, the cranks or the wheels you are going to be spending hours researching and trying to track down hard to find parts and paying a premium for items that work. It is easy to get seduced by the low initial cost. At the end of the day, I concluded it was hardly worth it. On the flip side, after 2 years of fooling around with the bike I sold it for what I paid for it. I wasted some time, had some fun and learned some lessons. Not such a terrible outcome...


----------



## vlad2010 (Jun 3, 2010)

I like that paint job!


----------



## Sixjours (Feb 24, 2012)

Yes, nice paint, should a bit cheaper...


----------

