# Ultra Torque installation



## mriddle (Nov 16, 2005)

Greetings,

I am upgrading my square spindle BB/Crankset to the new UT design.
Campy recomends Loctite 222 on the cups. My C-50 has a titanium BB shell, is this the best way to go? 

Also, do I just torque the fixing bolt and not the cups?

Any advise is appreciated. I assume you can buy the Loctite @ an auto parts store?


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## buddyp (Aug 27, 2007)

mriddle said:


> I assume you can buy the Loctite @ an auto parts store?


loctite 222 is the low strength product - its purple. you might find it at a better auto parts store. Medium strength (blue) and high strength (red) are much easier to find. A word to the wise -- don't use red loctite on anything you can't use a torch on for disassembly.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

I would just use anti-seeze and make sure the cups are snug, thats what I did on my titanium frame. The alloy cups and cold welding could mean a very expensive repair down the road.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

mriddle said:


> Also, do I just torque the fixing bolt and not the cups?


Yep. 

Also read the instructions - there is a 'no loctite' proceedure as well which is what i did. I just grease everything. Also i can confirm that the shimano BB tool is compatible on campy cups, brilliant ! (only cost me 10 bucks and i have a shimano LX mtb as well !)


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## mcteague (Feb 7, 2005)

Campagnolo only suggest using Loctite if you install the cups by hand. The preferred method is to use a BB tool and anti-seize or regular grease.

Tim McTeague


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

mcteague said:


> Campagnolo only suggest using Loctite if you install the cups by hand. The preferred method is to use a BB tool and anti-seize or regular grease.
> 
> Tim McTeague


Yes, Tim is right!!

Loctite was recommended when the first UT cranksets were sold, and not all lbs's had a Campy BB cup tool. On these days there is no Loctite to apply, any lbs should have the tool.

Regards


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## DM-SC (Jul 18, 2007)

What brand/type of grease should be used?


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## mcteague (Feb 7, 2005)

DM-SC said:


> What brand/type of grease should be used?


Whatever you have on hand. Grease is just soap and oil mixed together. Some recommend anti-seize if putting them in a ti frame. I just used some old Phil grease and wrapped some Teflon plumbers tape on the threads as insurance against the aluminum cups creaking in my titanium frame.

Tim McTeague


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## BeeCharmer (Apr 30, 2003)

I use plumber's tape and grease and torque with the bb tool. No creaking ever.


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## Davoosie (Mar 17, 2007)

I just put some Park Polylbe 1000 on the BB and BB cups and installed by hand.


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## HammerTime-TheOriginal (Mar 29, 2006)

Campy has reversed the preferred order. Cups with Loctite 222 by hand is now preferred, with grease/antiseize and BB tool to 35 Nm being the second choice. It originally was the reverse.


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## DM-SC (Jul 18, 2007)

I know the Campy instructions do not mention it, however, is there a need to lube the joint between the two crank spindles?


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## rideorglide (Dec 3, 2005)

HammerTime-TheOriginal said:


> Campy has reversed the preferred order. Cups with Loctite 222 by hand is now preferred, with grease/antiseize and BB tool to 35 Nm being the second choice. It originally was the reverse.


Interessin' -- by any chance do you have a link to that ...?

Thanks


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## flateric (Jul 1, 2003)

I know it's not mentioned, but it would be a wise move to grease the teeth of the hirth link and also the outsides of the shafts to prevent any surface corrosion. In regards to the Cup installation Campy recommends the Loctite if you don't have the proper tool to install the cups. I've got a titanium frame and applyed antiseize to the inside of the bottom bracket shell then wrapped the cups with teflon tape and added yet another small layer of antiseize and installed with the wrench. The main thing with the installation is to get the fixing bolt to the proper tension to avoid any loosening of the crank.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

flateric said:


> I know it's not mentioned, but it would be a wise move to grease the teeth of the hirth link and also the outsides of the shafts to prevent any surface corrosion. In regards to the Cup installation Campy recommends the Loctite if you don't have the proper tool to install the cups. I've got a titanium frame and applyed antiseize to the inside of the bottom bracket shell then wrapped the cups with teflon tape and added yet another small layer of antiseize and installed with the wrench. The main thing with the installation is to get the fixing bolt to the proper tension to avoid any loosening of the crank.


If you are installing a Record Ultra the bottom bracket axle is titanium so there will not be any corrosion. I just used anti-seize when I installed mine the tape is overkill. I've put on several thousands of miles and plenty of rain rides and no creaking. The fixing bolt should be greased or anti-seize used or you won't get the correct torque value.


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## HammerTime-TheOriginal (Mar 29, 2006)

rideorglide said:


> Interessin' -- by any chance do you have a link to that ...?
> 
> Thanks


Well, I believe the Campy instructions were posted in a pdf on the campagniolo.com website. Unfortunately, the site seems to be down (looks like they haven't paid up). Hopefully the site will be restored before it is "stolen".


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## DM-SC (Jul 18, 2007)

Here's the installation PDF on the Campy site


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

Juanmoretime said:


> If you are installing a Record Ultra *the bottom bracket axle is titanium *so there will not be any corrosion. I just used anti-seize when I installed mine the tape is overkill. I've put on several thousands of miles and plenty of rain rides and no creaking. The fixing bolt should be greased or anti-seize used or you won't get the correct torque value.


Hola Juan,

Are you sure about the material Record UT axle is made of? I thought it was stainless steel even on Record cranksets.

Regards


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

Your right it is steel! I stand corrected.

http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets.php?gid=1&cid=7


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

Juanmoretime said:


> Your right it is steel! I stand corrected.
> 
> http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets.php?gid=1&cid=7


Hi

Sorry for the off-topic, but it seems campagnolo.com domain has not been renewed at Network Solutions. Big mistake on Vicenza boys!!

Regards


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## HammerTime-TheOriginal (Mar 29, 2006)

The campagnolo website is now back. Here is the link to the UT instructions, now showing Loctite 222 as the preferred method for installing cups. http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/7225306_Ultra_torque_05_07.pdf


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## rideorglide (Dec 3, 2005)

HammerTime-TheOriginal said:


> The campagnolo website is now back. Here is the link to the UT instructions, now showing Loctite 222 as the preferred method for installing cups. http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/7225306_Ultra_torque_05_07.pdf


Thanks; I wonder why they changed the preferred method. Gotta wonder about what all those folk are feeling, who did it the way it said in the instructions that came with the equipment, only to find that what they thought was the preferred way no longer is. 

PRobably not a big deal, but it seems strange they are now essentially preferring hand-tightening/loctite over torque-wrenching...and go to the length of saying "do not overtighten" ... and this is about 'hand tightening' not even with a tool.


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

By the way, it happens Campy realize tight by hand is better, but everybody has already bought the specific tool. Nice business.


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## rideorglide (Dec 3, 2005)

clm2206 said:


> By the way, it happens Campy realize tight by hand is better, but everybody has already bought the specific tool. Nice business.



My guess is that maybe too many people overtightened and blew out the threads inthe bottom bracket. 

If they only tighten by hand then it becomes harder to overtighten. Just a guess.


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## dookie (Oct 1, 2007)

clm2206 said:


> Hi
> 
> Sorry for the off-topic, but it seems campagnolo.com domain has not been renewed at Network Solutions. Big mistake on Vicenza boys!!
> 
> Regards


for real?

missed opportunity! ~$30 and it could have been mine. what do you think they would have paid to get it back?


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

rideorglide said:


> My guess is that maybe too many people overtightened and blew out the threads inthe bottom bracket.
> 
> If they only tighten by hand then it becomes harder to overtighten. Just a guess.


that's the logical guess IMO. Those alu cups are really light and seemed very soft. It was apparent to me that even using the tool, only to use it to assit in making them flush w/ the walls. I used grease (i was an early UT convert)..... If one is not mechanically competent and could not see that the cups were very soft (as are most alu BB shells, then don't do your own wrenching then blame the manufacturer!)

The tool is no biggie... I used my shimano one... 10 bucks at the LBS.. even the campy tool can be had for like 20 bucks.. no campy scam IMO...

Personally i love how the BB is now standard across the range. No such thing as a second class BB, go campy! :thumbsup: The only issue i have is the bearing replacement? OEM is likely to be expensive and i'd have to pay a shop to remove and press them. My feeling is that at least centaur on down w/ become throw aways... they can be had for <$150 now, and its just easier to have new cranks, chainrings, bearings in one go then attempt to rebuild them... It remains to be seen how long these bearings actually do last... fingers crossed. But so far the UT design is pretty great IME.


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