# Entry level clipless pedals and shoes



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

I'm looking to swap out the pedals with straps on my Trek 1.5 road bike with some clipless pedals and road shoes. I'm hoping to keep it around $150 for the whole deal. The local bike shop has Shimano PD-520 (with cleats) and some Lake road shoes for $70-80 each (so between $140-160 total). It's a small shop, so I feel like supporting them. I don't recall the shoe model, but the pedals seem to be priced competitively and get decent reviews.

Any opinions on these? Any other recommendations for an entry level setup around $150. I've also come across the Shimano PD-R540.

Here are the pedals and shoes (I think) the LBS has:

http://www.lakecycling.com/cx165-p-96.html

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A52...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t


----------



## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

I can't comment about the shoes, other than to say: "make sure they are comfortable."

The Shimano mountain bike pedals (like the m520) makes a great entry level pedal. For general use I think that the mountain pedals are much more user friendly than the road pedals. The cleats are recessed making it much easier to walk when you're off the bike. For touring, sight-seeing, grocery shopping, etc., they're the way to go. I think that they're a really good choice.


----------



## gr8blues (Nov 20, 2009)

Hey you know you can spend $300 on a pair of shoes,personally I buy stuff on sale and have never spent as much money as you plan to. As a long time recreational rider I go for comfort and let the race types buy the high price stuff. Any clipless set up is going to seem pretty cool to you after toe straps.


----------



## drdiaboloco (Apr 10, 2010)

I can't speak for either your shoe or pedal choice, but SPD-type cleats are going to be easier to get used to than more road-specific pedals... And I think they're better if you have a lot of stop-and-go riding (such as in town). For long uninterrupted stints a road pedal setup might be better for you, but I don't know what sort of riding you're planning on doing. I'm still using 2-sided mountain pedals and mountain shoes for my road bike and I'm in no big hurry to switch, even if the roadie snobs look at me funny.


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

I ride primarily uninterrupted rides of varying lengths (sometimes only 5 miles or so, sometimes much longer). I also am hoping to be be in at least one triathlon this summer (team tri, just cycling for me).


----------



## drdiaboloco (Apr 10, 2010)

Well then, you may be better off with higher performance, road-specific pedals/cleats/shoes. Performance has the Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL for $50, or even their house brand Look-type for $80, both of which are the same price or cheaper than what you've said your LBS has. I'd say get the shoes at the LBS and the pedals elsewhere, but that's up to you (and of course I don't know if those Lakes are compatible with the different cleats, I didn't look).


----------



## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

I got some el cheapo Pearl Izumi shoes and mated them to some Look KEO classics. Been content so far, but do wonder the benefit I'd get by going with nicer shoes.


----------



## grahamzr (Apr 25, 2010)

Peanya said:


> I got some el cheapo Pearl Izumi shoes and mated them to some Look KEO classics. Been content so far, but do wonder the benefit I'd get by going with nicer shoes.


 The Look KEO Classics are great pedals. Easy in and out, they give a satisfying "click" when you clip in. I also prefer the larger cleat for a Road bike rather than the small SPD cleat, which work fine for MTB's but on a road bike the larger Look cleat is I think a bit more comfortable and stable. 

I've also ridden the Speedplay pedals and like those as well, they have a light action version which makes getting in and out pretty easy, the only issue I have with the speedplay is the cleat is a bit finicky to set up on the shoe ( I think 6 or 7 screws versus the 3 on the Look KEO) But once set up they're nice.


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

What are cleat covers? Some pedals say "no cleat covers". Is this something that I'd need to purchase seperately?

Also, any opinions on the Nashbar brand pedals? They seem to be copies of other brands made by Nashbar.


----------



## gnatman (Jan 14, 2009)

Shimano R-540 are good pedals if you deceide to go with paltform style.

I bought a pair new-in-box with cleats on ebay for ~$50.


----------



## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

atomheartmother said:


> What are cleat covers? Some pedals say "no cleat covers". Is this something that I'd need to purchase seperately?


No idea but I'll take a shot in the dark. My guess would be that they're some sort of protectors for the cleats for when you walk - otherwise the cleats get mangled.


----------



## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

I have Look Keo Classics on one bike and a new set of Shimano 105 SPD-SL 5610's on my main ride( I have two sets of shoes). I prefer the Shimano's. One reason is the tension release setting. With the Classics you have to go up to the next model (Sprints) to get a higher tension. That might or might not be important to you. The Shimano's are easier to clip in for me. The Look Keo 'grip cleats' makes walking a little easier. You can buy rubber cleat covers that go over the Keo cleats. The only reason I would wear them is if I got stuck and had a long walk home. I have some for my old Delta pedals and never used them. Excel Sports has the 105 SPD-SL 5610 for $80.00. Also with the Keo Classics, they install with a 8MM allen or hex wrench. The 105's go on with a regular pedal wrench. 

Whichever pedals you go with, practice clipping in and clipping out a bunch of times before you set off on your first ride. Don't set the 105 clip release too high if you decide to go with them, you won't be able to unclip, or it will be difficult.

P.S. I've been using Look pedals exclusively since they came out with clipless pedals back in the mid 80's. I did use a set of Time pedals back in the early 90's. I prefer the Shimano pedals and I'm a Campy guy. Sometimes you never know what will work. Price is a big factor for me also.


----------



## 2ndGen (Oct 10, 2008)

I got my first pair of road shoes and pedals here for about $80. :

http://www.pricepoint.com/thumb/1-Clothing-828-Road-Shoe/Pedal-Combos-False.htm

The shoes aren't the best, but for $40. they were just what I needed to get acquainted with RBing. 
The pedals have been great with no problems, but I will be upgrading to Ultegra or Dura Ace's for wider platform.

They gave me a great idea of what to look for when I was ready to spend real money on a pair of shoes.


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

Anyone got any opinions on these? They look to be Look copies on the cheap. The reviews look decent. Would the Look Keo Classics I found on eBay for $75 be worth the extra $35 over these?

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_10000_200435


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

Dinosaur said:


> I have Look Keo Classics on one bike and a new set of Shimano 105 SPD-SL 5610's on my main ride( I have two sets of shoes). I prefer the Shimano's. One reason is the tension release setting. With the Classics you have to go up to the next model (Sprints) to get a higher tension. That might or might not be important to you. The Shimano's are easier to clip in for me. The Look Keo 'grip cleats' makes walking a little easier. You can buy rubber cleat covers that go over the Keo cleats. The only reason I would wear them is if I got stuck and had a long walk home. I have some for my old Delta pedals and never used them. Excel Sports has the 105 SPD-SL 5610 for $80.00. Also with the Keo Classics, they install with a 8MM allen or hex wrench. The 105's go on with a regular pedal wrench.
> 
> Whichever pedals you go with, practice clipping in and clipping out a bunch of times before you set off on your first ride. Don't set the 105 clip release too high if you decide to go with them, you won't be able to unclip, or it will be difficult.
> 
> P.S. I've been using Look pedals exclusively since they came out with clipless pedals back in the mid 80's. I did use a set of Time pedals back in the early 90's. I prefer the Shimano pedals and I'm a Campy guy. Sometimes you never know what will work. Price is a big factor for me also.


Now I'm in a toss up between those Shimanos and the Looks. Does the tension on the Shimanos go as low as the Looks too? I'll want pretty low tension at first to be able to very easily unclip.

Also, which as better float? I have pretty bad knees, so I think I might want something with a good amount of float.


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

Dinosaur said:


> I have Look Keo Classics on one bike and a new set of Shimano 105 SPD-SL 5610's on my main ride( I have two sets of shoes). I prefer the Shimano's. One reason is the tension release setting. With the Classics you have to go up to the next model (Sprints) to get a higher tension. That might or might not be important to you. The Shimano's are easier to clip in for me. The Look Keo 'grip cleats' makes walking a little easier. You can buy rubber cleat covers that go over the Keo cleats. The only reason I would wear them is if I got stuck and had a long walk home. I have some for my old Delta pedals and never used them. Excel Sports has the 105 SPD-SL 5610 for $80.00. Also with the Keo Classics, they install with a 8MM allen or hex wrench. The 105's go on with a regular pedal wrench.
> 
> Whichever pedals you go with, practice clipping in and clipping out a bunch of times before you set off on your first ride. Don't set the 105 clip release too high if you decide to go with them, you won't be able to unclip, or it will be difficult.
> 
> P.S. I've been using Look pedals exclusively since they came out with clipless pedals back in the mid 80's. I did use a set of Time pedals back in the early 90's. I prefer the Shimano pedals and I'm a Campy guy. Sometimes you never know what will work. Price is a big factor for me also.


Now I'm in a toss up between those Shimanos and the Looks. Does the tension on the Shimanos go as low as the Looks too? I'll want pretty low tension at first to be able to very easily unclip.

Also, which as better float? I have pretty bad knees, so I think I might want something with a good amount of float.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Two thoughts.*



atomheartmother said:


> Now I'm in a toss up between those Shimanos and the Looks. Does the tension on the Shimanos go as low as the Looks too? I'll want pretty low tension at first to be able to very easily unclip.
> 
> Also, which as better float? I have pretty bad knees, so I think I might want something with a good amount of float.


- Wanting "low tension" at first for easy unclipping is understandable, but almost all clipless-induced toppling-over incidents have nothing to do with release tension. In most cases, something happens that leaves the rider not enough _time_ to unclip before the bike stops. That can either be forgetting to unclip altogether before coming to a stop, or having to do a sudden, completely unplanned stop.

- Float is generally good, but the notion of "more float is always better than less float" is mostly marketing hype. If you have a serious knee issue, get a professional to advise you. Some knee injuries are actually caused, or made worse, by excessive float.


----------



## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

A quick 2 cents. The shoe is far more important than the pedal. Modern cycling shoes have soles that are so stiff (some too stiff for recreational cyclists) that you could be standing on a nail and not notice. Frankly, if a "large platform" is so important, than why are so many pros on Speedplays? (Yes, I know they're paid to be.) Like "more float", mostly marketing. But some float is generally good.

I always ask my customers who are new to cycling if walking in the shoe is a desireable attribute. If so, I steer them to a recessed cleat design/shoe/pedal combo like SPD or Crank Brothers. If not, a road shoe and a SPD-SL or Look.

Just remember, different brands of shoes fit different feet. Nikes, Sidis, Shimanos never worked for me, but Diadora and Bontrager have. Unless you know absolutely what brand and size fits your foot, do not buy without trying them on (i.e., internet sales.)

Oh yeah, proper cleat positioning is very important too.


----------



## jsellers (Feb 14, 2008)

atomheartmother said:


> I'm looking to swap out the pedals with straps on my Trek 1.5 road bike with some clipless pedals and road shoes. I'm hoping to keep it around $150 for the whole deal. The local bike shop has Shimano PD-520 (with cleats) and some Lake road shoes for $70-80 each (so between $140-160 total). It's a small shop, so I feel like supporting them. I don't recall the shoe model, but the pedals seem to be priced competitively and get decent reviews.
> 
> Any opinions on these? Any other recommendations for an entry level setup around $150. I've also come across the Shimano PD-R540.
> 
> ...


Working in an LBS I like the fact in this you want to support them, because it does not look like a bad shoe a good starter and should last along time. I would go to a road pedal more than a mtb pedal with them IMO. Mail order is cheap but no one is going to miss an LBS until it is gone then it is to late, and if it is a good shop them have plenty of knowledge and are helpful for your needs.


----------



## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*Tension*



atomheartmother said:


> Now I'm in a toss up between those Shimano's and the Looks. Does the tension on the Shimano's go as low as the Looks too? I'll want pretty low tension at first to be able to very easily unclip.
> 
> Also, which as better float? I have pretty bad knees, so I think I might want something with a good amount of float.



Both pedals come with the lowest tension already set. The tension setting for the Keo Classics is 8-12nm. Shimano does not list the tension settings for their pedals. I'm guessing it's 8-16nm. The Classics come with cleats with a 4.5o float. The 105's come with a float of 6o. The degree of float means how much you have to rotate your foot until your cleats release. As far as I know the only diff between the Keo Classics and the next higher up Sprint's is the tension release. The Sprints are higher. The diff between the 105 and the next model up Ultegra is the Ultegra have a more streamlined pedal body, which make them a couple of grams lighter. I use Shimano shoes and both cleats worked fine with the Look or Shimano cleats. I find (for me) the Shimano's are a little easier to clip in.

Keep in mind that pedals are pretty personal items, like saddles. Guys usually stick with what works for them. I'm not a big Performance fan, but you could buy from them and if you don't like them return or exchange for something else.

Maybe you have a ride bud or an LBS that will let you try out some pedals?


----------



## drdiaboloco (Apr 10, 2010)

atomheartmother said:


> Anyone got any opinions on these? They look to be Look copies on the cheap. The reviews look decent. Would the Look Keo Classics I found on eBay for $75 be worth the extra $35 over these?
> 
> http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_10000_200435


BTW... You don't have to go to eBay to get the Look Keo Classics for $75. Probikekit has them for around $65 when you use the USA10 discount (and shipping is free).


----------



## atomheartmother (Aug 19, 2008)

Update:

For the pedals I went with a set of Shimano 105 PD-5610 ($80 on ebay).

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/con...dals/road/product.-code-PD-5610-L.-type-.html

For the shoes, I recently got Lake CX165 ($80 at the LBS). The cleats look pretty funky on them, though, with one of the corners jutting out pretty far past the edge of the sole. I might try to return them and go with something else (somewhere else, since these are all the shop has). I'm thinking about going with some Shimano RO76 ($90 at LBS) or RO86L ($110 at LBS or $55 at Nashbar).

http://www.lakecycling.com/cx165-p-96.html


----------

