# 2010 CAAD9-5 Brakes - Watch out!



## Accordion (Mar 27, 2010)

I've had my new CAAD9-5 for a couple weeks now. I've put on 220 miles pretty much on flat terrain with a couple hills here and there.

Today I did some climbing. I went up a really large hill I used to do when I was in good shape on my mountain bike. The CAAD9 climbed brilliantly! Incidentally I was in the lowest gear on my compact crank for most of the climb so those of you that ordered the standard double hopefully won't be doing a lot of climbing or you're way stronger than me!

On the way down I hit 38mph which was a new high for me on this bike. A light turned red and I applied the brakes in what I thought was ample time. It wasn't! I squeezed the brakes gently and then immediately went into a panic stop as I could see they weren't going to stop me before the intersection. Applying a death grip on the brakes and shifting my weight to the rear I managed to stop about halfway through the crosswalk. I was shaken by this experience.

Some of it may be rider error as I am new to road bikes and this was my first serious braking exercise. I had always read that the stock Tektro brakes were the weakest link on the CAAD9s and now I believe it!

I'm going to get some Ultegras, or Kool Stops, or DuraAce or SOMETHING that works better than these. They always felt a little soft to me during the past two weeks but they were like two dead pieces of wood on my stop today!

Just giving you guys a headsup. Be careful!


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## squareslinky (Aug 13, 2009)

I replaced mine pretty quick. I have a 9 4 so I got Force brakes.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

If you're talking about the R580's, I have the same brakes on my Six and they seem to work ok. I'll probably swap them out at some point but I hardly doubt that I'll get 30+% better stopping power out of more expensive calipers (you probably won't either). The rear wheel locks when I squeeze the lever too hard so I try not to do that - I'm not sure what more I could expect from the brakes. I think it all comes down to 3 things:

1. Knowing your bike. Perhaps you need to spend a little more time on it in order to know what your brakes can and cannot do.

2. Your size. I don't know how big you are but if you're on the heavier side, you'll need to allow for more stopping distance.

3. Adjustment. Take the bike to your LBS and have them take a look at the brakes.


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## squareslinky (Aug 13, 2009)

My guess with what you describe is this was cable stretch from a new bike. I switched brakes because they were the weakest component.


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## CHL (Jun 24, 2005)

Hi Accordion:

I don't know which brake calipers are installed on your bike but don't over look the adjustment factor.

1. Caliper properly centered on the rim.
2. Pads properly adjusted on the brake track.
3. Amount of play in the shifter travel (distance from brake pad to rim surface).
4. Amount of slack when squeezing shifter (should be NONE).

If everything is properly adjusted, try a pair of Shimano or Koolstop brake pads. If no bueno, then go with a new Caliper. I know there are lighter calipers on the market but I love the efficiency of my Ultegra 6600 & my DA7800.

CHL


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## AvantDale (Dec 26, 2008)

I agree with CHL. Double check your brakes, or better yet...take them to the shop that you bought the bike from and have them check the brakes.

Its also possible that the brake pads haven't bedded themselves yet. Take some sandpaper and slightly scuff the surface of the pads and see if that helps.

I ran some Tiagra brakes for over a year and they slowed me down some pretty hairy descents just fine...


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## knucklesandwich (Feb 23, 2007)

You can get Rival brakes cheap on eBay and elsewhere...pair those to Kool Stop salmons and you'll be good to go.


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## ClaytonT (Aug 23, 2009)

I have an 2010 CAAD9-5, I had no problems slowing down from 47.8mph for an intersection at the base of the hill.


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## Clueless Morgan (Mar 27, 2010)

I've often wondered about the pads. Wouldn't the pads and the wheel rim where the pads bear have a more profound effect than the actual caliper?


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