# Frequent commuter getting serious



## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

I currently ride somewhere between 100-250 miles a week between commuting and recreation. I have a pretty Crap Wal-Mart Denali and am looking to upgrade. 

Some things I am looking for: 
- Durability. Drivers are not very good and roads can get a little rough where I ride.
- Quality
- Longevity

Priced somewhere around $ 1500. I will be getting this for my Christmas present to me next year when I get back in the states. I can save more if it works be worth it in the long run our if you think I would need/like any special equipment. 

I currently commute a minimum of 15 miles daily on mostly flat road and will ride 25-50 on a weekend over rolling hills.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

$1500 is a better than fine budget for a good quality road bike. Just make sure the bike is secured when/ if it's not within sight.

Beyond that, standard advice here.. Visit some LBS's, discuss intended use(s)/ budget, get sized/ fitted and test ride a few. Shop for shops along with bikes, paying attention to those promoting the importance of fit and test rides. Those (IMO) are reputable shops.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

That was my plan. But having more info is better than having less.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

I suppose narrowing my question would help. What brands or styles are most frequently used for commuting?

And a side question:
Best gear to buy off the bat? I currently use gloves and clips, but the back pack I use is uncomfortable at times and I need to carry one for my work stuff.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

It would seem that summer would be the time to shop for a bike, although there may be some good "off-season" deals out there.

I wouldn't go all out on Carbon Fiber for a commuter. Find a good steel or aluminum framed bicycle. A bike rack is great. You can carry quite a bit in panniers, either one or two, and avoid the backpack.

You may choose to add fenders on the commuter bike. 

You may eventually choose to have two bikes, one for commuting, and one for your weekend rides. However, in the past, I had tried commuting on a very cheap beater, while keeping the Colnago for pleasure rides. 

I quickly discovered that I disliked riding the beater, and started riding the Colnago everywhere.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

Are the bike racks easily removable? I can imagine that being annoying on a longer ride, and I want to only buy one bike (to start at least!)


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## Msquared (Jun 30, 2014)

I commute to work (33 mile round trip) and ride on the weekends on a Salsa Colossal. It's steel - I love it! It does not have eyelets for a rack or fenders if that matters to you.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

It's entirely possible to find a decent all-rounder to serve both the commuting and weekend club ride roles. 

Addressing your initial bullet points, your $1500 budget will get you the durability, quality and reliability you seek. Take those as a given.

In a similar position seven years ago, I bought cyclocross-based bike. Aluminum frame, carbon fork, rack and fender mounts, and I also wanted disc brakes. It's been a worthy companion for the duration, and remains the one bike I'd keep if I was forced to own only one. That model is no longer sold. The Trek Crossrip is its successor.

The term, cyclocross, is a bit like green and low-fat. It gets inappropriately slapped on all sorts of stuff these days, so you can't go by just the label or the name. One of the most popular is in fact, just an overweight bike with shifters that no cyclocross rider would ever consider. It sells because the name invokes the toughness of hockey. 

Much better bikes exist that are truer to the cyclocross definition, that are both light and durable, and have integrated shifters.

As for QR racks, yes they exist. They clamp on to the seatpost. The problems with them are that because they mount on the seatpost, they carry your load high, raising your center of gravity, and adversely effecting handling. Further, they should be used only to carry the load on top (raising CoG even further), since most don't have provisions to keep panniers out of the spokes. That also limits how much you can carry.

My advice is to get a proper frame-mounted rack. IMHO, there's no great disadvantage, even on weekend club rides. Yes, it makes the bike slightly less aero. Yes, it makes the bike look less like a racing bike. But I let my legs do the talking on club rides. My rack doesn't impair that. 

If you have a competitive streak, the psychological value of dropping folks while on your commuter can't be denied. (And if they drop you, you have a handy excuse.) 

Worst case scenario, there are four screws to unscrew to remove a frame-mounted rack.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

Something I forgot (which may be covered in the previous post) is that I'm 200 pounds. I was told that I need a higher spoke count. 

My budget chives that I assume our should I plan to spend more?


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Manufactures have been playing around with the spoke count for a bit. 36 is almost hard to find now. 32 is common. 200lbs is probably a bit marginal either way. 

Personally I wouldn't choose 24 or 28 spokes, or some weird spoke arrangement. However, one point is that the modern rims are designed to be stronger than those from 20 or 30 years ago, so perhaps one compensates somewhat by using a more rigid rim.

As far as bikes, you may consider a good solid used racing bike from the 80's or 90's. Steel with either Columbus tubing or Reynolds tubing. 

A lack of eyelets can be a pain, but there is a way to work around it. With the classic Campagnolo style dropouts (triangle opening), you can use these adapters which give a solid attachment, although perhaps a little low or at an odd angle.
Blackburn Pannier Nut For Campagnolo Dropout Style Frames - www.mcconveycycles.com


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Many bikes in your price range have fairly robust wheelsets. Ironically, it's not until you get to higher priced models that (lower) weight becomes a selling point, and spoke counts drop

Personally, I like steel as a frame material for the type of bike you're looking at. The model below has fairly relaxed geo, wide gearing, will likely accommodate 28c tires, has eyelets and can be had for under $1k. But it's a competitive market, so lots of choices.

JAMIS BICYCLES


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

People are incredibly variable about bike choice for commuting. I've used some manner of road bike in the past, 'til recently something old and pre-chewed because I was concerned about theft and vandalism. But I see everything from Old Crappy Mountain Bikes to shiny new Cervelos getting people to work. Clearly everyone riding something different from me is doing it wrong.  But this is likely to take you a little more iteration.

Since you also ride for fun, I think you should get a fun bike that clears sensibly wide tires - like 28s - and fenders, and has eyelets for the fenders and a rack. I didn't bother to take the rack and fenders off my commuter when my recent move nuked bike commuting and I decided to keep it for rec and training rides in the winter. I can't say I notice them. Or not in a negative way, at least. I really appreciate not having the front wheel spray water on my face. People are too concerned with whether their bikes are aero, but it's the funny-looking biped sitting too tall on the saddle that's really messing things up. I actually don't like 28s but you've got sixty pounds on me, so what do I know. And a lot of my friends like them. Give me 23 mm or 2.3". I'll skip the half-measures, thanks. 

Racks that aren't very secure really suck. They can have inertia separate from the bike and really mess with its handling. You can decide if you want to use the rack for commuting or not. I found I preferred a messenger bag to ride two miles to school and a pannier to ride five and climb a hill or to take a bag of hand tools to a job. Try it both ways and then leave the rack on or not. Maybe I'd be surprised by a QR rack, but given I was bothered by a permanent installation with a little flex, I doubt it.

I wouldn't dismiss theft as a concern, but I realized my COO for my commuters in Seattle was all about old bikes and wear. Big pain, too. So be sensitive to your surroundings, but spending a real figure on a commuter is something I'm sympathetic to. I was in the wrong place in my life last time I broke a commute bike, but I did step up to a late-model, major-brand used bike. I've still had issues with wear, but finding parts has mostly been pretty easy, certainly easier than with the '80s and '70s-era bikes I'd been choosing.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

This is all great info. I appreciate it a lot.


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

I use my Cannondale CAADX to commute. It's a cyclocross, so can handle on or off road, but it's definitely a road bike. It has eyelets for fenders, and a relaxed geometry, which basically means the head tube is higher than on a racing bike, allowing the rider to sit up in a more relaxed position. It is available with disc brakes, or cantilevers. (I suggest disc brakes). My suggestion would be the 1o5 disc group. I think that is slightly more than 1500, if your budget is absolute, the cantilever brake Tiagra group would probably get you there. But, again, disc brakes would be better. 

The knobby cyclocross tires can be replaced with something with less rolling resistance if you find they slow you down too much. Great all around bike


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

I have a little over a year to pinch pennies and would really like to make one solid purchase. So my budget is fairly flexible. I plan to go get sized soon and actually try bike styles to see what the LBS suggests. I just don't like to go in to anything without a little knowledge. 

I figure after bike, gear and suggested upgrades ect I'll be in for 2-2.5k total. I just want to spend the money as wisely as possible.

I'm waiting that long because I won't be in the states most of next year and don't want the bike to sit, so I'm taking the time to really save and make one great purchase.


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

Just looked at the prices. Looks like the 105 group is only 1570.0. Also, I didn't realize the Tiagra was available with discs, you have a range of choices here. This is the first year any of c'dales aluminum framed caadx's are available with discs. My 2013 has cantilevers. I like it, but I spent 170.00 putting better canti's is on it, and still, disc brakes would be better. Especially with loaded panniers in the rain.

Here are the caadx's

CAADX - Cyclocross - ROAD - BIKES - 2014


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

I just read the rider profile on the CAADX:

_With its mix of high performance and durability, CAADX is perfect for cyclocross racers, fast commuters, winter training, or general rough-road riding._


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

My rain bike, formerly commuter, has disc brakes. It's a Trek Portland - same as brucew actually. I like that they perform pretty much the same in the wet as when it's dry, and I was hoping they'd save me a little on maintenance since they don't wear away the rim. The bike does have very crowded dropouts, though, which took a little more creativity to get a rack and fenders mounted on. It pretty much always takes some creativity, so no biggie.

The Portland, and a lot of commute or touring-oriented bikes with discs put the caliper on the chainstay. That helps. When the caliper is on the seatstay, which is more common, clearance for the stays on a rack becomes a problem. There are ways to solve that, but I think they make the rack less secure. So, worth thinking about.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

aureliajulia said:


> I just read the rider profile on the CAADX:
> 
> _With its mix of high performance and durability, CAADX is perfect for cyclocross racers, fast commuters, winter training, or general rough-road riding._


What types of roads do you ride? Thus is one of the better ones I go down. Some are awful and it's like dodging landmines.








I really lie how that looks though. I'm nit big on flashy colors. Black suits me just fine


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## mtrac (Sep 23, 2013)

ArmyNick said:


> What types of roads do you ride? Thus is one of the better ones I go down. Some are awful and it's like dodging landmines.


I commute in NJ and that road is an unimaginable luxury.

I'm curious what you don't like about your backpack? I have a Chrome District rolltop, and as long as I pack carefully it's comfortable enough. I use it both on and off the bike. It's hard to justify a rack when I already have something that serves my purpose. Note that I use my car two days a week.

Regarding the bike, you've received lots of good advice. The market seems headed toward more well-rounded bikes and there's a lot out of suitable product out there. Keep in mind you can usually swap parts out and sell the stripped ones to offset the cost, or have the LBS handle everything when you buy it.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

There's a lot of solid advice here. Just to muddy the waters a little bit further;

I'm seriously smitten with the GT Grade, and there are several offerings in your price range. Granted, I haven't had the chance to set eyes and butt upon it in person. But looking at the geometry and components on it I'd be quite pleased to make the 105 model my commuter. They don't do a good job of publicizing it, but they aluminum frames have eyelets for both fenders and racks.

Currently I commute on a fixed gear and put all my food, chain for locking up, tool kit, and change of clothes in a bag. I've gotten used to it and actually feel a little weird riding without thirty pounds on my back. That said, it's getting a little old having a giant sweat patch on my back and having to change shirts every time I show up to work, so I definitely understand the appeal of a rack and panniers.

Be aware that riding with panniers on rough roads can cause some unexpected problems. A good friend of mine rides in Lansing, MI (where we have the second worst roads in the country!) and has had his Banjo pannier become partially unhooked a few times and actually launch itself off his rack into the road once. I'm not badmouthing Banjo here. They make good stuff. But if the roads are as bad as you say it's worth paying attention to when choosing your gear (again, my context is riding unbelievably bad roads, so take this with some salt). You may find that you need a cargo solution that is rock solid, even at the cost of being easy to put on/take off. Or you may decide that the backpack isn't such a bad solution after all.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

I'm originally from Flint! I understand bad roads. I'm fairly adept at securing things. 

I currently use a North Face Heckler and it seems to ride high which pushes on my helmet when I lean over. 

I'm going to try my old High Sierra Tangent and see if the experience is better. It's top load, a little larger and also has a rain cover. I used it when I began hiking so it has air vents to hopefully prevent the sweat spot. (Another annoyance I have just gotten used to)

Heller on left, Tangent on right







The tangent gets smaller, I just pulled all it's stuff out and cleaned it. 

Difference in contact points is extreme.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I find a proper messenger bag less bad than a backpack and a pannier less bad than a messenger bag. For me, it's really a length of ride vs. convenience thing. Two miles to school where I'll walk around all day and no real climbs? Definitely the messenger bag. Five miles and 340' of climbing was enough to make me prefer a pannier, especially going to a place where I didn't walk around so much. One of the high-end panniers, like an Ortlieb, might have changed my opinion some. They have a really cool system for getting on and off a rack easily and being secure in place, and some neat accessories to facilitate carrying them around.

So I'm trying to avoid pushing one approach or the other - I don't even have a solid opinion for myself. But I think you should give yourself the option of using a rack and panniers, especially given that you're talking about greater differences than were ever typical for me.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I find a proper messenger bag less bad than a backpack and a pannier less bad than a messenger bag.


Yes!! It's a common misconception that using a messenger bag is mostly for street cred. In reality, having the bag slung diagonally across your back means the bag rides lower on your body. This reduces the chance of the bag riding up toward your head and bumping your helmet (or interfering with your flowing tresses if you're helmet-less), just as the OP mentioned. I'm really keen on the idea of the Arkel cam lock for their panniers, but once again I haven't ponied up the money to check them out firsthand.

ArmyNick - Nice to see another Michigander around here! Whatever you settle on, be sure to tell us all about it. I'll be living vicariously through you since I can't afford to get another bike for another couple years.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

I've carried a laptop bag with the bike, but it never was comfortable, and wouldn't stay put. It still was ok for short commutes, but probably suboptimal.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I've been using Timbuk2 messengers for ages. They no longer have street cred, but gave me a warranty replacement when I needed it, so why buy a new bag?

The stabilizer strap, which I can adjust one handed (I can also adjust the main strap one-handed) makes it work a lot better. Ironically, the diagonal style seems to be more conducive to being stabilized well.

Definitely didn't work as well if I had something broad and stiff next to my back, though. It helps if the bag can conform a bit.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

Took a short 5k spin, the Tangent seemed better but I will likely invest in a solid pannier when I upgrade.


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## ArmyNick (Jul 10, 2014)

I also sat/tested a few and feel in love with the Cannondale. So whoever suggested that, good call. CAADX Disc Ultegra. Within my price range, and rides like a dream. 

Pedal/shoe suggestions? I'm used to clipless but I would like an option to ride in street shoes as well.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> One of the high-end panniers, like an Ortlieb, might have changed my opinion some. They have a really cool system for getting on and off a rack easily and being secure in place, and some neat accessories to facilitate carrying them around.


My commuting panniers are Ortlieb Sport Packer Plus. It's a touring pannier for the front, but it's just the right size for commuting, and works just fine in the back. The mounting system is quick, convenient, and secure. And the Ortleibs, of course, are completely waterproof.




UrbanPrimitive said:


> I'm really keen on the idea of the Arkel cam lock for their panniers, but once again I haven't ponied up the money to check them out firsthand.


My grocery panniers are Arkel Shoppers with the cam lock. They mount easily and securely, even when fully loaded. And they don't move. Completely changed the way I shop. My old grocery panniers were such a pain, I left them on the bike and carried grocery bags out, much like you do with a car. With the Arkels, I plop them in my cart, fill them as I shop, empty them on the belt, and refill them as the cashier rings me out. Then they pop right on to the riack.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

ArmyNick said:


> I also sat/tested a few and feel in love with the Cannondale. So whoever suggested that, good call. CAADX Disc Ultegra. Within my price range, and rides like a dream.
> 
> Pedal/shoe suggestions? I'm used to clipless but I would like an option to ride in street shoes as well.


I rode several miles on Speedplays in running shoes a while ago. It was annoying but I lived to tell.

I don't know of a good option, though. Some of the large-platform clipless MTB pedals look like they might work, but I hear that one still feels the mechanism through a soft shoe. Doesn't sound like a good option to me.

I use clips and straps on my commuters. Then I can ride in whatever. But I do prefer clipless on bikes I ride for sport. The summer I commuted a race bike, I left shoes at the office. If you want to stop on the way home and have a more walkable shoe, cross country mountain bike shoes give up very little to road shoes, within comparable price points, but are a lot better (still weird) to walk around in.


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## mtrac (Sep 23, 2013)

ArmyNick said:


> Pedal/shoe suggestions? I'm used to clipless but I would like an option to ride in street shoes as well.


I'm partial to Speedplay. You can get white or black Platformer pedal covers to convert them to street shoes; I've never used mine.


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