# What do you think of the 2007 Fuji Touring Bike?



## jgsheftel (Apr 9, 2008)

I am a 5'4" female, if that information is helpful, and I am wondering what your thoughts are on the buying the 2007 Fuji Touring Bike (http://www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=290) for my first touring bike for a cross country, unsupported tour. I can get it new for $470 through a friend who works at a bike shop. I could get any other bike through him (surly, trek, etc) at just above cost, but since I am new to touring and not very wealthy, I was thinking that my first bike should just be solid, comfortable, and cheap. Then if I really love touring I can get a better one later down the road.

Anyway, my main questions are:

1. General review of the 2007 Fuji Touring Bike

2. What you would upgrade (besides the seat) if you were going to take a LONG trip on it.

Thanks so much for your help!


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Wow, I didn't know that anyone still mass produced a bike like that. The only thing about that bike that I don't like is that they don't list the geometry on their site (or, at least I could not find any information on the geometry). It's difficult from looking at a picture to tell if Fuji went with traditional touring bike geometry to if they went with sport-touring geometry, which would not be as comfortable nor as stable with a load as a traditional touring bike would be.


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## Mootsie (Feb 4, 2004)

If you want comparisons, a few others make loaded touring bikes, Trek, Cannondale, Jamis and Surly to name a few. Looking at what others offer may give you a clue on what you may or may not want to upgrade.


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

Overall, I like it a lot, especially at that price. 

re: geometry, Fuji's been making a touring bike for many years and lots of folks have gone cross country on them. You'll have no problem. 

Have the shop's best wheel builder go over the factory wheels and make sure they're tight and true. 

Only nit that I'd pick is the small chainring is 30 teeth. 

Ask your friend to order you a 24 (or the next smallest that'll fit the crankset) for you. You'll thank me about the time you're 2 miles into a 5 mile climb, fully loaded, after 50 miles, on a hot day, with a headwind, and no lunch yet...


/edit - maybe cheapest to swap out for an MTB crankset, something like 22/32/42 are common. 

Also if you haven't already found it, hang out on www.crazyguyonabike.com - tons of touring experience and helpful folk there.


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

Creakyknees said:


> Only nit that I'd pick is the small chainring is 30 teeth.


I agree - the chainring gearing is too high. Generally a 52 isn't needed, so I would prefer to see something like: 50-38-26 (or even 24)
to go with the 11-32 in back.


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## martym (Feb 23, 2004)

*Good choice*

A friend of mine bought one a few years ago. The bike is a very good touring bike and a good deal. He had some spoke issues. Unless they have that issue behind them, I would have the wheels rebuilt with high quality spokes. After he did that he had no problems. Enjoy!


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## jgsheftel (Apr 9, 2008)

Hi all,

thank you so much for your help so far! 

The advice about looking at other touring bikes for comparison is a great one. I have already done a whole bunch of comparing, but as a novice to biking and even more to bike parts it is hard to know what to look at sometimes, so i really appreciate the help!

To summarize what has been said so far:

1. Ask to make sure that they used the traditional touring bike geometry and not the 
sport-touring geometry

2. Have the shop's best wheel builder go over the factory wheels and make sure they're 
tight and true.

3. Swap the crankset & chainring for something like 50-38-26 (or even 24) to go with the 
11-32 in back, or a MTB 22/32/42 crankset if money is an issue.

4. Have the wheels rebuilt with high quality spokes.

5. Get a really good fit (don't want those handlebars to be too far away or too high for you)

6. Think about changing to bar end shifters.

I am open to any other suggestions!

Again, thank you all for sharing your wisdom!


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

From the other replies here, it would seem that checking the geometry may not be needed.

I would not worry about having the wheels rebuilt. Most wheels on bikes are machine built and there are issues with this. Wheelbuilding is best done by someone who knows what they are doing and how things should go together. This isn't to say that machine built wheels aren't any good, they just aren't as well made as a handmade wheel. I would even go so far as to say that even if you don't have the wheels checked you will probably be fine. I don't think you will stress the wheels like someone weighing more than 200 pounds can so I would not worry about it too much.

With regards to fit, when riding long distances comfort on the bike at mile 80 or 90 is more important than anything else. If you can ride 100 miles and the bike does not give you any strange aches or pains then you should be good to go. If you have any nagging issues at 50 miles then you will hate the bike at 100. Make sure that you can handle riding that bike for at least the distance you would go on a typical day of touring.

Bar end shifters aren't needed. They're a good idea because they're simpler than the integrated shifters that are so popular today. If you manage to break a bar-end shifter then you can switch it to friction mode and continue the ride. If you break an integrated shifter then you are probably stuck in one gear until your next stop.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

*Great touring bike!*

Don't worry about those stout 36 spoked wheels. They'll be able to handle the loads and go the distance. If a spoke breaks a few thousand miles out, you can easily replace it with one of the extras attached to the left chainstay, and keep going. You can also "upgrade" replacement wheels for a few hundred bucks.

Even the firm, narrow saddle might be ok. You ride into fitness doing a mulit-day tour. The geometry is certainly touring, very slack steering angle, probably 71 or 72 degrees for stability even with "low riders" on the front wheel.

52 and 42 front chainrings are fine for anything but really big hills, and then a 30-32 is adequate for anyone other than a senior citizen. Larger cogs front and rear will last longer over the miles and cause less stress on the chain. More teeth are sharing the load, so everything holds up better. For that reason, I'd definitely not go to compact gearing. There will be occassions, like going with a stiff tailwind, that 52-11 will come in useful! Most of the time you'll be in your middle gears, and a 42 is perfect for that, much better than anything lower. That's just been my experience over the several hundred thousand miles I've ridden, loaded and unloaded over the past 30 years. I was surprised the first time I did a loaded tour, how much I used my 52. Both 52 and 42 are nice gears when you' re just rolling along at a moderate pace and enjoying the scenery.

There's plenty of clearance for fenders. They'll keep the bike clean, not to mention all the luggage and rider, and reduce maintenance problems.

I've sold that Fuji at the shop I work weekends. It's got everything a good touring bike needs for a great price. All the other bikes I've seen, including those cyclocross rigs from various manufacturers, might have some superior features, but none have all the ingredients dialed in for serious loaded touring. Just get a good fit, and give yourself a few months to fine tune fit before taking off cross country!


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I like it. Sure looks like it'd get the job done.


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## Paul1PA (Sep 16, 2006)

For the price, the Fuji seems like a good value. However, after looking at the components, I do have a few reservations. While I realize touring bikes aren't going to be spec'ed like high-zoot racing machines, the Fuji is a rather dated design.

Personally, I would strongly consider the Trek 520 as an alternative:









https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2008/road/520/520/

Lots of similarities in regards to frame material, spoke count, gearing, etc. But the 520 is current on the industry standards. For example, the Fuji has a 1" steerer and a wedge-type stem. This can limit your choices if you ever need to upgrade or replace your headset, fork or stem. By contrast, the 520 has the 1-1/8" threadless steerer. Overall, a lighter and stronger design plus easier to adjust your headset and handlebar height on the road (just a small allen wrench required for setting bearing preload and swapping spacers).

In addition, the 520 has bar end shifters which should be more durable (cheap "Brifters" can be rather problematic and short lived). As for the brakes, the 520's direct pull "V-Brakes" are super powerful and again, typically easier to tune. Finally, you also get Shimano clipless pedals which are almost universally preferred over the Fuji's toe clips & straps. 

Oh yeah, as a last consideration, factor in the warranty and number of bikes shops carrying the brand. Besides the excellent lifetime warranty, Trek has a strong network of dealers to assist you while on the road. 

Having said all this, no doubt the 520 is going to be more expensive. But, since your friend can order Treks, at least find out the price and his opinion. Since you'll be putting tons of hours on a touring bike, spending a bit more up front may be cheaper and less frustrating in the long run (just shake that money tree a little harder! ). Also consider buying a used model on Craigslist or eBay assuming you can find the smaller frame size you'll require. 

In closing, I hope that I didn't come across as negative or discouraging. Rather, just trying to ensure you make an informed decision. Good luck!!! :thumbsup:

Paul


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