# 2010 RS Frame Build, Please help



## flex1493 (Jan 11, 2012)

Hi Everyone. I Have a New 2010 RS Frame. I bought as a left over @ a shop. Now I know its a entry level frame, more for the recreation long comfort rides. I would like to do a nice build on this bike. Can anyone recommend what parts should use on this build. I would like to keep the bike around 16 pounds if its possible with this frame. 

Thanks everybody for any help.


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## 2002 (Nov 19, 2007)

Go with SRAM Red group, Reynolds MV32C, 3T seatpost/stem/handlebar.


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## flex1493 (Jan 11, 2012)

Hey thanks for the info. What weight you think that would have me @.


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

A couple of things...
First, while it is the low end of Cervelo's R series, the RS with Ultegra, is no "entry level bike". You've got a great bike to start with. Second, don't be TOO concerned about the bike weight. At 17#, this is not a heavy bike. It's more about YOUR weight and fitness. Third, that said, you will probably get the best bang for buck, with another set of wheels. And you don't have to break the bank. +/-$500 can get you into a stiff set of alloy wheels under 1600g. I'm guessing that would knock the better part of a pound off, where it counts. And you should be able to feel the difference there. Most other weight saving measures will only be felt in the pocketbook. Good luck.


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## flex1493 (Jan 11, 2012)

Hey Gimme, Thanks. I appreciate that. I read good reviews on this frame. I know I'm not going to go racing or anything like that. But I wanted something good. 

Thanks


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## Har (Oct 16, 2002)

Like Gimme said dont come right out and box this bike in as an entry level recreational comfort bike. Is it that, yes, and a whole lot more. This frame was used in the PRO peleton maybe like 2009 give or take a year for some of the Euro Classic one day races. This bike rocks, I am thinking your frame is black and sliver, i have the same bike that I got in the spring of 2010 and love it. I have all Ultegra and Easton EA 90 SL wheels, 3 T in the post stem and bars, my beloved Selle Flite and Conti's 3000 GP S.the bike is light, quick, and comfy! Good Lord man the first poster to your question has sugesseted over $4000. (approx) in just the price of the RED group and the Reynolds wheels. An ultegra bike with a 1500-1600 gram wheelset and the only thing that will hold you back from any other bike that your friends ride is your own ability. Post us as to what you end up doing with it!


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

I'll take it a step further, and say that the RS is a true "performance" frame with only a slight increase in compliance and of course a more upright geo, compared to the rest of the R-series.

As for weight, if you can build an R5 down to 13#, you can build an RS down to +/-14# with the same components. And you would be able to proudly post your 14# RS on the forums. But going from 17# to 14# is not going to make any bike faster in any "significant" way (with the possible exception of wheels). It may make the difference between 1st and 2nd for an elite racer in a given race. But for most of us, it's just bragging rights. The only way I am going to really be faster is to ride a lot, and improve on my own power-to-weight ratio through fitness.

As for component changes that make sense: Generally, most complete bikes come with relataively low performance wheels to keep the price point down. Higher performance wheels are the single most meaningful improvement you can make to your bike. Here's a place where weight and stiffness do make a difference at least in the feel of the bike, and maybe speed. Most everything else is just mechanical improvement or fluff.

All in my opinion, of course. Other's may disagree.


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## drewskey (Jun 3, 2011)

Flex1493 - I too have a 2010 RS. To echo others, this is not a comfort entry bike frame in the least. And, like Har, I rock EA90SL and Ultegra. The frame is super stiff in sprints and equally at home on climbs. Enjoy it.

Two Cons for this setup: 
1) the EA 90SLs are notorious for their terrible pre-load play
2) I just warrantied my frame because of a BB crack after 5k miles. Luckily, Cervelo has a lifetime warranty.


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## vpd7 (Feb 22, 2011)

For information's sake...

My 54cm, 2009 RS with Mavic SL SSC wheels Conti 4000S wheels, full ultegra 6600, Selle SLR XP saddle, and KCNC Prolite Scandium seat post comes in at 16-1/4 pounds.

As for the intended use I've read all I can find since buying this used and evidently these frames were raced on rough courses with success. I read that the UCI outlawed them because of some obscure rule about having a straight "line of sight" through all of the tubes. The seat stays don't make it. (of course everything on the internet is true). There's a lot of other bikes that don't fit that either so I'd like to know if there is truth to it.


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## Mtn2RoadConvert (Aug 28, 2006)

I have a '09 RS that I built up in early '10 with Sram Force, Dura Ace 7850SL wheels, Ritchey stem & handlebars, Fizik Alliante saddle, Shimano Ultegra pedals. The total weight on my scale is about 17.5 pounds. In the past two years I have ridden over 14K miles, mostly on club rides, training and club race events. The bike is quite responsive and feels very compliant. I am currently building a S-Works Tarmac SL4 for racing, but plan to keep the RS for training and century rides.


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## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

Just finished building my first Cervelo, a 2011 RS frame set. First ride tomorrow (Sat morning) and of course pics etc to follow. Doing an internal Ultegra Di2 install was interesting to say the least.


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## mjengstrom (Apr 20, 2009)

First off, I love my RS. I would definitely not call it entry level. It a great bike for racing, training or long group rides. I think its a pretty god climber too. Mine is around 16lbs. 56cm frame, SRAM force, Mavic ksyrium SLs and a Cobb Vflow plus seat.


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## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

Torture testing my new RS build with Ultegra Di2. minimal clearance between front tyre and top of the 3T fork is a problem especially with 28mm tyres but everything else about the bike is good. This is my second bike build with U Di2 and I'm amazed at how well this stuff works and keeps working in such conditions, conventional cables hate this kind of abuse.


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## horizon1967 (Jun 8, 2008)

Cut.Aussie said:


> Torture testing my new RS build with Ultegra Di2. minimal clearance between front tyre and top of the 3T fork is a problem especially with 28mm tyres but everything else about the bike is good. This is my second bike build with U Di2 and I'm amazed at how well this stuff works and keeps working in such conditions, conventional cables hate this kind of abuse.


Lovely bike,I see you have your handlebars almost the same height as your saddle.Flip your stem take down two spacers you won't regret it.


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## ralph1 (May 20, 2006)

Dude, someone broke your seat.....lol


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## encomium (Mar 19, 2007)

cut-aussie - did you drill a hole in the rear dropout to run the di2 cable internally yourself?


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## AvantDale (Dec 26, 2008)

Sram Force group, Zipp aluminum cockpit/post, 38mm carbon wheels. 

Bling and performance!


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## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

encomium said:


> cut-aussie - did you drill a hole in the rear dropout to run the di2 cable internally yourself?


Yes & no, the hole is already in the end of the rear dropout aluminium casting casting however it's a little too small to fit the Di2 cable through so yes I did drill it out large enough to fit the Di2 plug through.

Also enlarged both the holes at the rear of the BB that was intended for the FD cable guide tube to pass through, used these holes to rough the battery cable through and drilled another matching hole beside it for RD cable to enter the chain stay.

The last hole was drilled in the head tube at about the 2 o'clock position for the shifter cable to exit the frame. Adhered the Di2 cable to the inside wall of the headtube with silicon RTV sealant to prevent it from rubbing on the moving folk steerer, Didn't use a grommet but just added more white silicon RTV to seal the hole around the cable (my frame is white).

I'm extremely pleased with both my install and just how well Di2 works, I can't imagine ever going back to purely mechanical gears again.


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## encomium (Mar 19, 2007)

Cut.Aussie said:


> Yes & no, the hole is already in the end of the rear dropout aluminium casting casting however it's a little too small to fit the Di2 cable through so yes I did drill it out large enough to fit the Di2 plug through.
> 
> Also enlarged both the holes at the rear of the BB that was intended for the FD cable guide tube to pass through, used these holes to rough the battery cable through and drilled another matching hole beside it for RD cable to enter the chain stay.
> 
> ...


wow! that's really brave to drill a carbon frame....I'm surprised your warranty was honoured considering you made the modifications.

it looks great though!


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