# My DIY "Free Motion" Roller Project



## Zipp0 (Aug 19, 2008)

A few months back I picked up a set of rollers for $25 on craigslist. The previous owner couldn't ride them without crashing. Evidently, he didn't know that you needed a belt. I would have told the guy, but he was having a friend sell them, so rather than get into a whole "thing" I just ponied up the dough for my "new" rollers. I believe they were Performance brand at one time. After ordering a belt and doing some light cosmetic work(rust clean-up, some paint), they were just fine PVC rollers.

After seeing several versions of DIY free motion rollers, I started thinking about converting my cheap rollers into free motion. I mean, I wasn't too worried about wrecking my $25 rollers. For the build, I picked up the following:

Skateboard wheel "upgrade kit" from Target - $9.99
5/16" x 3 in bolts (4)
Bunch of 5/16th washers and nuts
2x4s (2)
1 "smart bungee" kit (Home Depot)
5/16 drill bit for metal
A couple screw-in hooks

First thing I did was figure out where I wanted to mount the skateboard wheels, measure, and mark carefully, and drill the holes. Then on with a washer onto the bolt, then the bolt onto the frame from the inside out.. On the other side (outside) of the frame I used 10 washers as a "standoff" from the frame, then the skateboard wheel, a washer, and the bolt. After all 4 wheels were on, I figured out how wide the support frame would have to be, measured, cut, and assembeled with wood screws. You don't need to be super precise, but close. Wider skateboard wheels give a small margin of error.

Next I played around with the bunge kit and the screw in hooks to find a combo that worked. You want the bungee taut, but not tight, on each side. I used the pre-existing holes on the front, and used carabiner type clips from the smart bungee kit to attach to the rear wheel axles on the back.

A test ride confirms that this works beautifully. For about $60 total invested I have some decent free-motion rollers. Lastly, you can disconnect the bungees, lift the rollers out of the wood frame, and use them as standard rollers - for warming up at races, or whatever.

Pics:


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## ukbloke (Sep 1, 2007)

That's a neat set-up and awesome instructions. Thanks for sharing!


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## TWB8s (Sep 18, 2003)

Crap! I had a set of those rollers but I sold them a couple of years ago. That sure beats a set of EMotion rollers. Well done!


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## Cyclo-phile (Sep 22, 2005)

Any issues with the bolts for the skateboard wheels deforming the tubes? That seems like a lot of leverage on those points when put weight on the rollers. I may try this setup, but I'll use some fender washers on either side of the tube to reinforce it.


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## ncsu (Dec 28, 2008)

What's so special about "free motion" rollers compared to normal rollers?


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

Cyclo-phile said:


> Any issues with the bolts for the skateboard wheels deforming the tubes? That seems like a lot of leverage on those points when put weight on the rollers. I may try this setup, but I'll use some fender washers on either side of the tube to reinforce it.


I think it is awesome. Just a couple comments:

Using a piece of all-thread in lieu of bolts in order to have a full axle would help.

The other thing I would add would be some tabs extending down from the roller frame into the wood box. The tabs would act as guides to maintain alignment of the wheels on the frame. I would hate to have it work it's way off the frame. (maybe that's what I see sticking down at the outside of the roller drums?)


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

ncsu said:


> What's so special about "free motion" rollers compared to normal rollers?


When you sprint out-of-the-saddle on normal rollers, the fore-aft motion of bike and rider can cause you to ride (actually, more like hop) off the front of the rollers. The free motion absorbs that fore-aft movement of bike and rider, allowing you to uncork some pretty wild out-of-the-saddle sprints on your rollers.


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## Zipp0 (Aug 19, 2008)

Cyclo-phile said:


> Any issues with the bolts for the skateboard wheels deforming the tubes? That seems like a lot of leverage on those points when put weight on the rollers. I may try this setup, but I'll use some fender washers on either side of the tube to reinforce it.


I just did over an hour with 30 minutes of hard over/unders and all seems good so far. I am guessing that 5/16 inch steel (the axle bolts)is pretty darn strong. Also, the rails are steel, insteal of AL, so they are also very strong. Good idea on the fender washers. I may do that, especially since it would only take about 10 minutes to change up.


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## Zipp0 (Aug 19, 2008)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> I think it is awesome. Just a couple comments:
> 
> Using a piece of all-thread in lieu of bolts in order to have a full axle would help.
> 
> The other thing I would add would be some tabs extending down from the roller frame into the wood box. The tabs would act as guides to maintain alignment of the wheels on the frame. I would hate to have it work it's way off the frame. (maybe that's what I see sticking down at the outside of the roller drums?)


Thanks for the tip on the all-thread. Can you get that at Home Depot? Easy to cut? (I have a grinder)

As far as the tab guides, the regular legs that came on the rollers extend down and serve this purpose perfectly. And yes, that is what you see extending below the roller drums.


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## Zipp0 (Aug 19, 2008)

wim said:


> When you sprint out-of-the-saddle on normal rollers, the fore-aft motion of bike and rider can cause you to ride (actually, more like hop) off the front of the rollers. The free motion absorbs that fore-aft movement of bike and rider, allowing you to uncork some pretty wild out-of-the-saddle sprints on your rollers.


Exactly. Heck, it's hard to stand at all on regular rollers, let alone sprint. The free motion also makes riding without hands easier, and you can reach down for the water bottle without a problem.

That being said, you still have to pay attention. I managed to ride off the rollers tonight while watching a movie and getting a bit too distracted.


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## JaeP (Mar 12, 2002)

Thread dredge. I recently came into some rollers and I love them more than in indoor trainer (stationary). My rollers are foldable but the frame is made of steel.  Can I use the same set up or do I have to re-inforce the hinge area of my rollers by adding another set of rollers wheels next to the hinge area?


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

JaeP said:


> Thread dredge. I recently came into some rollers and I love them more than in indoor trainer (stationary). My rollers are foldable but the frame is made of steel. Can I use the same set up or do I have to re-inforce the hinge area of my rollers by adding another set of rollers wheels next to the hinge area?


I would add the set. I don't know about you, but with anything supporting my body weight, I'd rather have it overbuilt.


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## JaeP (Mar 12, 2002)

Opus51569 said:


> I would add the set. I don't know about you, but with anything supporting my body weight, I'd rather have it overbuilt.


True dat. I'm going to try to make a free motion roller similar to the OP. Helpful Hint: I picked up a set of Roller Blades at my local Goodwill for $10. The wheels (8 total) still spin smooth and come with ABEC 3 bearings.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Good call. Make sure to post pics when you're done. I hadn't considered putting in a motion system, but I did build an enclosure for the rollers over the summer.


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