# Clicking Sound from Crank Set area of 2015 S-Works Venge Dura-Ace DI2



## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi all. I'm struggling with a minor issue that my two local Specialized bike shops and techs can't seem to resolve. 

I am getting a clicking or high pitch knocking sound from the general area of the crank set. These are the conditions under which it happens, which provide some clues:

1. It happens on both the large and small chain rings
2. The sound only occurs when I am applying a fair amount of torque to the cranks, like around 150w or higher based on what I am seeing on my power meter; so torque on the cranks, chainrings, and spider are clearly causing something to touch mechanically
3. It doesn't happen 100% of the time but is inconsistent
4. The sound is synchronized with my cadence
5. The sound appears to occur about when that silver metal chain catch post (which is on the outside of the big chain rain, in between the ring and crank) is at the 12:00 position
6. I did some experimentation, and when the sound is occurring, if I pull my feet out, and actually pull on the cranks a bit using my inner thigh muscles, the sound goes away
7. Two weeks after I got the bike, I had the Quark for Specialized power meter installed on it (it's just a new spider). Unfortunately, I can't recall if the sound was occurring before this. I don't think it did, but I am not 100% certain.


It has been in the shop 3 times and the problem is not going away. The last time I took it in, the tech completely dismantled the bottom bracket, lubed, and re-assembled. In addition the spider was a lose he thought (about a quarter turn), so he though that could have been the problem. There is nothing visible that is touching in the crankset area, so it appears to be internal. 

Any ideas on what this might be? It is driving me nuts.

Kris


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

I had this problem. I found out I had a defective pedal bearing. Easy enough to test. Throw a different set on and see if it goes away.


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

ah, interesting! I will do that. With these carbon frames, cranks, and components, it's sometimes hard to tell where the sound is coming from...the carbon is like a ventriloquist.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

clicking, or like a carbon resonating pop?

I solved that popping with two very thin rubber O ring between the OSBB bearings and the HollowTech II adapters on my Roubaix..

Good luck, it can be quite annoying...


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

I was just looking at this web page. The possible noises that can come from a bike and the causes is insane! It could drive a person out of their mind...nothing more annoying than being "in the zone" out in the middle of nowhere, no cars or traffic noise, and your bike is making some repetitive abnormal sound. 

Bicycle Bike Noises, Clicks, Ticks, Creaks, Clunks, Knocks Repair by Jim Langley


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

krispenhartung said:


> ...nothing more annoying than being "in the zone" out in the middle of nowhere, no cars or traffic noise, and your bike is making some repetitive abnormal sound.


Takes the Zen right out of it, don't it? ;O


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

krispenhartung said:


> ah, interesting! I will do that. With these carbon frames, cranks, and components, it's sometimes hard to tell where the sound is coming from...the carbon is like a ventriloquist.


Yes, the sound transmission properties of a carbon bike frame are a wonder to behold. 

Let us know what you find with the pedals.


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## willembad (Jun 26, 2013)

I've had something similar with my Venge. Drove me crazy for weeks. Ended up being a loose cleat. The fact that it goes quiet when you change your mechanics leads me to believe it might be the same issue.


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## Wetworks (Aug 10, 2012)

My extremely limited knowledge would suggest maybe the the bottom bracket. I had one go before and it sounded very similar to what you described.


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

Migen21 said:


> I had this problem. I found out I had a defective pedal bearing. Easy enough to test. Throw a different set on and see if it goes away.


I'll be damned, Migen21. I think you were absolutely right. I just did a test on a ride. Rather than pulling out on the cranks with my legs, which eliminated the sound, I just turned my feet inward and put pressure on each pedal, one at a time. Doing this with the left pedal made the clicking go away! Glad it's not the bike. 

Thanks!


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

Good news..

Just out of curiosity, what kind of pedals is it?


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

I guess......Looks?


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

For me, it was a brand new pair of Shimano A600s I had purchased for commuting purposes.

One of the bike shop guys offered to rebuild them, but they still clicked.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Hmm. I just got those, and have a click. I shall check tomorrow.


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

Migen21 said:


> Good news..
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what kind of pedals is it?


Shimano Ultegra Carbon


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

krispenhartung said:


> Shimano Ultegra Carbon


Double check that your cleats are tight, and not worn excessively at either the front or rear attachment areas. If that's all good, then service the pedals. The Shimano Dealer Manual, which includes Maintenance instructions (see page 17) can be found here. Just be sure you're looking at the right section - the manual covers several different pedal models, and there are subtle differences. A good instructional video can be seen here. If you want to try a short cut method, you might try this simpler version of servicing that avoids the complete disassembly - note the Shimano pedal segment follows the Looks. With PD-6800 pedals you shouldn't need the special removal tool.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

This is a first. Never seen a bearing go in shimano pedals....


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks! I'll probably just take it down to the shop at the tail end of a ride. They have a habit of fixing my bike and working on it for free ;-)


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

willembad said:


> I've had something similar with my Venge. Drove me crazy for weeks. Ended up being a loose cleat. The fact that it goes quiet when you change your mechanics leads me to believe it might be the same issue.


This occurred to two separate sets of shoes, but I will check the cleat just to rule it out.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

krispenhartung said:


> Thanks! I'll probably just take it down to the shop at the tail end of a ride. They have a habit of fixing my bike and working on it for free ;-)


Take your shoes too. It may be the cleat(s) is(are) moving/rocking in the pedal.


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

goodboyr said:


> This is a first. Never seen a bearing go in shimano pedals....


Search around the web. You'll find a bunch of people complaining about this with the A Series (520/600) pedals. 

It's a shame too. The A600 is an affordable, lightweight pedal that is ideal for commuting/recreational riding. 

I might give the Ritchey Micro Pro a try next...


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

Sorry. My comments were restricted to spd-sl road type pedals. DA, ultegra, 105


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## taodemon (Mar 17, 2014)

I just took my bike in for a tuneup as it was nearing the time for it but the clicking is what prompted me to do it slightly earlier than i had planned. I'll have to check the pedals again to make sure that isnt it. I dont think it would be the cleat because I was sort of able to replicate it in the shop parking lot by holding the brakes slightly as I pedaled in normal shoes.

I have the carbon ultegra pedals on mine and they have close to 5000 miles on them, though I have no idea how long a pedal should function without issue.


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

Well, the troubleshooting saga continues. I thought it was the Ultegra pedal, because while it was clicking, I was able to turn my foot inward or outward, putting a bit of pressure on the pedal axle, and the click went away. However, today at the bike shop the guys and I tried to replace the pedals and the clicking remained. But at least the sound is now localized to left side, and the only thing up stream from the pedal is the crank. So we are going to try putting a different crankset on to see what happens. This is ridiculous.


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## krispenhartung (Dec 7, 2014)

I'm going to remove the cleats and re-install as well and give that a shot as a last resort.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

*2015 S-works Tarmac Creaking BB*



krispenhartung said:


> I'm going to remove the cleats and re-install as well and give that a shot as a last resort.


Dragging this one back up.... I will tell you my story!

I also have a new S-works, Tarmac 2015 model with Dura Ace cranks complete with the hollowtech II adapters than come with them. I have a clicking or creaking sound (that's my best description) similarly, when I apply consistent load, especially on hill climbs. i have noticed also however that I can reproduce it when mounted in the trainer. I also thought it was intermittent, however I now think it only occurs after the cranks have been warmed up (used for a bit) and under reasonable load. It happens in small and large ring 52/36 DA.

It also happens when I am in or out of the saddle, so there is no escape!!!! and it is driving me insane on climbs!!!!

Note: this bike is only a few months old and has only seen 4000 km or so. It gets looked after very well, cleaned, chain oiled weekly at minimum.

I have done the following so far to no avail:



Removed and replaced Vector pedals (look) and torqued, re-greased, cleaned threads.
 Checked rear skewer and cleaned and greased it. I have changed the skewer to my trainer skewer and it is the same.
 Checked seat post and seat.
 Oiled and tightened all chain ring bolts.
 Removed DA 52/36 compact cranks and cleaned, reinstalled, retorqued - I have done this twice.
Removed outer Hollowtech II adapters for OSBB and cleaned and greased lightly, cleaned inside BB and checked bearings, and replaced adapters. Note: bearings are ceramic speed and roll like butter still.
Tightened and put some WD40 on cleat bolts on shimano R320 with loop pedals.
Checked the chain catcher position, to ensure it is not hitting the chain.
I have oiled the RD hanger and bracket and checked for tightness.
I have oiled my rear wheel (Roval CLX40) spoke crossovers in case they were creaking - this can happen - no help!
Checked rear cassette is tight and secure 11 speed DA.

A bit disappointing considering how much an s-work costs and that it is doing this. I was also led to believe that the 2015 models changed to an alloy sleeve in the BB to solve the creaking problems of the SL4 with the plastic sleeves being out of tolerance!!!???!?!?

Any help out there would be great!

I actually read the O ring option in a thread above by *robt57*. What type of O-ring did you use? As when I look at the one side, I think the non drive side outer face of the cone shaped adapter that inserts into either side of the BB, into the inner bearing ring, this outer face of the cone shaped adapter (alloy) appears to have scouring marks, where the black anodised coating is worn away in an uneven manner!? Clutching at straws here!!!

Help save my sanity please !!

James


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

*2015 S-Works Tarmac creaking BB - Insanity!!!*



robt57 said:


> clicking, or like a carbon resonating pop?
> 
> I solved that popping with two very thin rubber O ring between the OSBB bearings and the HollowTech II adapters on my Roubaix..
> 
> Good luck, it can be quite annoying...



Hi robt57

What type of O rings (diameter, thickness, hardness) and where did you install them?

I have the same set up by the sounds of it in a 2015 S-works with same sound.

There are the NDS and DS alloy inserts that are glued into the carbon BB at factory, then there is a circlip to hold the ceramic speed bearing cartridges in place, then the alloy hollowtech II adapters fit into these bearings. Then the Hollowtech DA cranks go through. Where do the o-rings go? Have you still had success with them to date?

Note: I have never removed the bearing cartridges themselves as I dont have a removal and seating tool and I am reluctant to try and tap them out with a rod and re-seat with a mallet, in case I damage the seats, faces, bearings, BB etc.

Thanks in advance for your help.

James


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

Just a follow up. It worked out the clicking was the rear DA 11-28 cassette. It has gone back to Shimano for warranty replacement.
Something loose or clicking in the carbon components in the cluster. 
Sorted.


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## 1Butcher (Mar 15, 2011)

From my understanding, you're lucky it was only a click. The pictures of what I've seen, I would never use a Dura-Ace 11sp cassette. They are known to crack and Shimano is known to say there is not a problem.


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## TricrossRich (Mar 26, 2014)

jumma said:


> Just a follow up. It worked out the clicking was the rear DA 11-28 cassette. It has gone back to Shimano for warranty replacement.
> Something loose or clicking in the carbon components in the cluster.
> Sorted.


interesting... I've been chasing a weird click on my Allez the last few weeks. I thought it was the FD rubbing the chain, but that's not it. The wheelset that I use on the Allez actually has a DA9000 cassette. I wonder if that's it.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

Try swapping wheels or cassette and see if it still happens. It also takes 5-10 minutes to warmup to happen on mine too.


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## TricrossRich (Mar 26, 2014)

jumma said:


> Try swapping wheels or cassette and see if it still happens. It also takes 5-10 minutes to warmup to happen on mine too.


For sure, I'll give it a check this weekend if I can.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

Sweet. Yeah. I looked at the problem with DA cassettes and yes the older ones that had only two rivers per connector on the body were failing and squeaking but mine is the newer style and it is squeaking. Warranty I am told by supplier. Will see how replacement goes and if no good will look at an Ultegra replacement. Not much weight difference really.
So check your cassette and see if it has the two or one only rivet through the metal body. Google Shimano DA cassette failures there are plenty of pics to explain.


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## 1Butcher (Mar 15, 2011)

I could of sworn I saw related failures with the updated two rivet versions. I ride Campagnolo so I do not keep up with Shimano too much. 

Dura Ace 9000 11 speed cassette- rubish product design - Weight Weenies


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## TricrossRich (Mar 26, 2014)

I just pulled the cassette... mine looks like the one on the right.


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## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

Following some of the other online resources on this topic, it sounds like some folks have had success curing a click by reinstalling the cassette and torquing it to spec (40nm?).


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## rcb78 (Jun 15, 2008)

I've broken the new ones too. Popped the heads off the rivets holding the cogs in place. Been running a Red22 cassette now for as long as my first two DA cassettes combined and it's working just perfectly.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

Ok. Yeah I have removed and reinstalled and tested a number of times. Seems the new design with the two rivets is still not a solution as this is the same one I have.
Anyhow. Will try the replacement that Shimano supply and see how it goes. If it fails I will maybe go for SRAM. Maybe I just produce too much torque ... Lol!!!


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## TricrossRich (Mar 26, 2014)

I cleaned and re-installed. If It's still there, I'll try swapping on my other wheelset that has the Ultegra cassette and if the noise is gone, I'll grab another ultegra cassette.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

Just another thing. With mine it started making the noise on climbs. But then I found it even made the noise when on the trainer. It even started making it at 150w or so. Originally i needed to be pushing well over 250-300 plus watts I.e. Climbing. It also seemed to need to warm up to start making the noise. Cleaning and retorqueing did not help. I oiled and regressed the free body. I oiled the rivets in the cassette. I degreaser, washed the cassette with warm soapy water until it looked brand new and then reassembled with some fresh grease and oil and no help. Anyhow. I thought that might help anyone else trying to problem solve this issue. I might eventually go for a 11sp SRAM in the end. Good luck to all.


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## jumma (Dec 4, 2014)

All is not solved yet unfortunately. I got a new DA cassette and it is doing it again. They are going to send me an Ultegra and I will run that for a week or two and see if it starts again. Otherwise it's the DA definitely the problem.


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## DocEndurance (Aug 25, 2015)

File this in the FWIW folder. 

I have had this problem three times now. It happened first on my Specialized Roubaix after 2600 miles of use. My LBS fixed the problem by installing a new BB. Haven't had the problem since. My second experience with this was on a new Cannondale Supersix EVO Hi-Mod with Dura-Ace throughout except the cassette (Ultegra). I didn't take the bike to the LBS because my son was visiting from Colorado over Christmas, and we wanted to take some good rides in the hills around my home. The first few days were punctuated with the clacking sound to the point where my son had to ask, "Are you sure it's OK to ride this?" Since the mechanic at my LBS assured me that riding the bike wouldn't be a problem, we completed two or three hard rides with some difficult climbs. By about the 4th day of riding, the sound disappeared completely! 

I have no idea as to why the clacking stopped. It wasn't the pedals, a loose cassette, the seat, or the axles. The noise occurred when under load and while on the stand. I could hear the sound also when turning the pedals backward. 

Now, about six weeks later, I'm having the same problem. The only common denominator has to do with the fact that I thoroughly degreased and cleaned the Supersix before my son arrived, and I did it again three days ago! I'm mystified, but perhaps a little water in the BB along with some road dirt? Perhaps a sticky chain link? Don't know, but I'll ride it and tolerate the clacking noise for three or four hard rides before contacting my LBS. Be interesting if the noise disappears ... again.

I would be interested if any of you have ever had the clacking noise self-abate.


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## TricrossRich (Mar 26, 2014)

Migen21 said:


> Following some of the other online resources on this topic, it sounds like some folks have had success curing a click by reinstalling the cassette and torquing it to spec (40nm?).


To follow up... After taking my DA cassette off to see what kind I have and putting it back on, the noise form the wheel is gone.


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## TmB123 (Feb 8, 2013)

I took my DA cassette off my bike 2 years ago trying to diagnose a click, turned out to be the OSBB in the S-Works but left the Ultegra one in place. Got some new wheels last August and put the DA cassette back on it. A few weeks ago started making some strange noises, could feel a few clicks through the cranks and then all of a sudden the cassette just exploded on me. Thought I broke the chain at first.


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## rcb78 (Jun 15, 2008)

Yup, that's what happens when you keep riding on it once it starts clicking, at least from my own observations. I even started to get clicking out of an Ultegra cassette after a sprint one day. Chucked it and swapped all my 11sp cassettes to SRAM. Red for the nice bike, Force for everything else. It's been over a year now and not a single peep out of any of them since. It's almost eerie because they were never this quiet before.
I've worked in a shop for a number of years now and something I learned early on still holds true. 9 times out of 10, whatever noise you think is coming from the BB, is probably something else. Especially when you've already meticulously serviced it. There comes a point when you have to trust that you did a good job and start looking somewhere else for a problem.


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## TmB123 (Feb 8, 2013)

My noise was def the BB, even after I had a Praxis one in there it was still making noise so then you start looking elsewhere assuming it isn't the BB. Finally got it sorted out, nice and quiet now.

When my DA cassette let go it actually broke the 23t in half on one side so it wrapped itself over the top of the cassette banging against the RD, just glad it didn't damage the RD or wheel. It was 10 days short if the 3 year warranty so just waiting for Shimano to (hopefully) replace it under warranty.


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