# Slight play in rear wheel?



## Shimmy Ya (Nov 7, 2009)

I have some very slight side-to-side movement on my rear wheel. Does anyone know what is causing this? Is it an easy fix? I've worked on bikes a little and have all the tools available to me, so I could probably take care of it myself. Thanks for any help.


----------



## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

If you are takling about side to side play at the hub it is most likely in need of some fresh grease and a bearing adjustment. If you are talking about side to side of the rim when the wheel is spinning then it needs to be trued a bit.


----------



## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Bearing adjustment*



Shimmy Ya said:


> I have some very slight side-to-side movement on my rear wheel. Does anyone know what is causing this? Is it an easy fix? I've worked on bikes a little and have all the tools available to me, so I could probably take care of it myself. Thanks for any help.


Since you don't say the brand/model/year of the wheel, it's hard to be specific, but assuming this is with the wheel clamped in the frame and the side-to-side play noticeable at the rim, it sounds like a simple bearing adjustment. How to do that adjustment varies widely from one wheel to the next. Note: "play" is where you can feel some clunk when you wiggle the rim side to side, and is not to be confused with a wobble you see as you spin the wheel. That wobble means that you need to true the wheel.


----------



## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Side-to-Side play usually needs a bearing adjustment.
Rim wobble means need to true the wheel.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Cartridge bearings?*

If your hub has cartridge bearings, typically there's no adjustment possible. But before you repair your hubs, see if the lateral play disappears with a slight load on the rear wheel (like 20 pounds or so of pressure on the saddle). If it does, just ride the wheel. If the play gets worse, think about reseating or possibly replacing the cartridge bearings.


----------



## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*???*

Most cartridge bearing hubs (like Mavic) do have bearing adjustment. There are only a few that use something like a wave washer to preload the bearings. A powertap rear hub is an example. A powertap front hub has adjustment.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

C-40 said:


> Most cartridge bearing hubs (like Mavic) do have bearing adjustment. There are only a few that use something like a wave washer to preload the bearings. A powertap rear hub is an example. A powertap front hub has adjustment.


Yes, my bad, don't know what I was thinking. Should have started my post with "In case you have one of those rare hubs with non-adjustable cartridge bearings....."


----------



## Shimmy Ya (Nov 7, 2009)

Kerry Irons said:


> Since you don't say the brand/model/year of the wheel, it's hard to be specific, but assuming this is with the wheel clamped in the frame and the side-to-side play noticeable at the rim, it sounds like a simple bearing adjustment. How to do that adjustment varies widely from one wheel to the next. Note: "play" is where you can feel some clunk when you wiggle the rim side to side, and is not to be confused with a wobble you see as you spin the wheel. That wobble means that you need to true the wheel.



Thanks! They are Am Classics Victory ('09), and I know these wheels have a history of not having the best hubs. I'm sure it is side-to-side play rather than my wheels being untrue, so should I just run it down to my LBS or is this something I could take care of easily?


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Shimmy Ya said:


> should I just run it down to my LBS or is this something I could take care of easily?


If your AC Victory rear wheel has the AC Victory hub as it should, you could do the job yourself. You'd need two 19 mm open-end wrenches. Leave the wheel tightly clamped in the frame while you make the adjustment. If you can't get it perfect, it's better to leave about 0.1 mm no-load end play than pre-loading the bearings too much. If the LBS charges much less than the two 19 mm wrenches would cost you, let them do it.  

http://www.amclassic.com/documents/help/VictoryHubAdj.pdf


----------



## Shimmy Ya (Nov 7, 2009)

Thanks for the link wim...looks like this is just what I needed (this and the two 19mm cone wrenches I'm going to 'borrow' from the office)


----------

