# Compact gear sets



## orbit (Feb 7, 2007)

I am in the process of ordering my first road bike and would appreciate womens input on compact gear sets. My main concern is finding a combination that allows me to cope with steep climbs. 

I currently road-ride a mountain bike (hardtail), SRAM 27 speed. I average around 200km ( about 140 miles?) every week, I train hard & my fitness is good, yet I am really useless at long, steep climbs, and will make use of granny gear when my legs burn out. 

The road bike I have ordered comes standard with double, 53/39 & 12/25 rear cassette, Ultegra. I want to stay with a double front, and so considered changing the rear cassette to 12/27 to give me more lower gears. After a little more research, I found that using a compact set might give me more lower end range. 

I am considering the following: 50/34 & 12/25: or 50/34 & 12/27: or possibly 50/36 & 12/27. There is a SRAM rear 11/26 option too. 

Your gear set-up and experience? Will I need the lower gears as much climbing on a road bike as I do on a heavier, smaller wheeled mntn bike by comparison? 

I have read a number of threads about compacts & gear ratios in the other forum areas and these have been extremely helpful. But most of the respondents have been men, and by nature, they have more muscle for climbs. Thats why I'd love some female input. 

Interestingly, the majority of WSD bikes here in Australia come with triple chains... and girly decals and crappy components! It seems to be only the WSD bikes costing US$4,000+ come with doubles. 

Thanks for your input.


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## Spinfinity (Feb 3, 2004)

*Since I'm cursed with "male answer syndrome"*



orbit said:


> I am considering the following: 50/34 & 12/25: or 50/34 & 12/27: or possibly 50/36 & 12/27. There is a SRAM rear 11/26 option too.
> 
> You may want to consider an mtb type cassette. I have a 12/32 which I use with a 53/39 pretty happilly. I'm 58 and keep up with the fit young women but not the fast young women.
> 
> ...


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

If your climbing is limited by leg power instead of cardiovascular capacity, spinning at a higher rpm will help. That reduces the stress on the legs but increases oxygen consumption.

A 50x34 compact crank would allow you more low gearing options. If you start with a 53x39 and a 12-27 cluster and decide you want lower gears later, you'll need to buy a compact crank then, or find a custom large casette and a long cage derailleur. The MTB cassette option mentioned above only works on 9sp systems as there are no 10sp MTB clusters. It also leaves large gaps between the gears which some riders find objectionable.

If you get a 110mm compact crank on your bike you can switch chainrings. If you find the 50x34 gearing is too low you can switch to 50x36 or 52x38 (actually you can get any size inner from 33 to 46 and outer rings from 40 to 62 if you want to be a complete gearing geek).

The gearing you'll need depends on your fitness, your riding style, and the climbs you do. There's a real tendency, mostly among men but some women too, to think of having low gears as being "weak". I have even had other guys in races comment on my gearing right before I drop them on a climb.

A triple crank will give you the best range of gearing- from really low to high, and won't leave large gaps between cogs. It's not "cool" and doesn't always shift quite as well as a double, but it means that you never need to worry about having the right gear.


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

Welcome to RBR and WC+, Orbit. I use 53/39 on the front and have 13-26 on the back. It's good for almost all the climbs I do here in So. California. I am certainly able to get up short 12%-14% stretches with my current setup. I have to admit I wound up walking a 19% climb a few weeks ago.:blush2: 

I am not a power climber. I simply don't have the strength in my legs to keep the cranks going round as the climb gets harder. So I am thinking of going over to compact cranks myself for my next bike. 

Can you give us an idea of how steep your climbs are?


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## orbit (Feb 7, 2007)

*Many thanks and...*

Many thanks all for your input, much appreciated. Also, your posts on this subject elsewhere have been invaluable, thanks.

..."Since I'm cursed with "male answer syndrome" ....
LOL!  ! Not at all! I just hoped for a little more input from “the gentler sex” (ooo, thats a sweeping generalisation!) in making my decision. I am encountering the “its uncool to put a triple or a 12/27 on THAT Italian frame” (a Colnago CLX) from a number of LBSs plus my roadie friends, so I was just seeking some female-friendly honest experiences!

The climb that blew my confidence the other week was estimated as 20-30 % in parts, and maybe 3 miles long. I rode about maybe a 6th of it before my legs totally died and I pushed the rest. Conversely, the female friend I was riding with that day walked the first part, but then managed to ride the remainder, albeit really, really slowly. I gained 40 mins on her, even pushing my bike, but it was a blow that I couldnt stick to it. This one might be an exceptionally difficult climb, but there are others not as bad I want to be able to stick on. (Yep, I really could benefit from some climbing technique instructions and to also improve my core fitness so will also tackle those areas. Any links to anearobic/aerobic fitness info appreciated. )

My technical & mechanical knowledge is limited, so I have another question:
...if I play safe and go with a 50/34 -12/27 compact set, and subsequently improve my climbing and decide to gear up while staying with a compact set, what is the better option, to make the change to the front rings, OR make the change to the rear cassette? Are they much of a muchness in terms of the result achieved? (I understand it would depend on the number of cog differences I make). Would one option be way more expensive and involve more componentry change than the other? 

Thanks again all


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## Spinfinity (Feb 3, 2004)

*Since I've been indulged...*

A Colnago being ridden up a long hard climb is definitely cool. A Colnago being pushed up a hill is less uncool than a Colnago hanging in the garage because you can't ride it. Gears exist to make bikes work better for people, not to appropriately accessorize frames. Get the bike set up so you can enjoy riding it tomorrow, upgrade components if they will materially increase your enjoyment of riding the bike.

Cranksets usually cost more than cassettes which cost more than a small chain ring. The first upgearing I would try is to a larger small chain ring. Front shifting will likely improve a little and I much prefer a smaller jump between front shifts. Shifting from a 50 to a 34 requires close to a 50% increase in cadence to maintain the same speed. 



orbit said:


> Many thanks all for your input, much appreciated. Also, your posts on this subject elsewhere have been invaluable, thanks.
> 
> ..."Since I'm cursed with "male answer syndrome" ....
> LOL!  ! Not at all! I just hoped for a little more input from “the gentler sex” (ooo, thats a sweeping generalisation!) in making my decision. I am encountering the “its uncool to put a triple or a 12/27 on THAT Italian frame” (a Colnago CLX) from a number of LBSs plus my roadie friends, so I was just seeking some female-friendly honest experiences!
> ...


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## orbit (Feb 7, 2007)

Thank you Mr Spin, a very wise reminder 

I will get my bike set up for me, not anyone else and enjoy riding it.


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## baylor (Oct 1, 2003)

If you rely on your current granny from time to time, which I do to, then you'll get the closest outcome by going with the 50-34 and 12-27 if not even a little bigger in the back. Sounds like just the ticket. You can easily (and reasonably cheaply) change cassettes if you choose later.


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## cat4rider (Nov 10, 2006)

I'm rather non-girly and use a Ritchey Pro Compact Crank. I just added it to my new custom frame. I had used a Campy 53/39 for years. We have lots of short steep climbs and some longer ones and I've found that on the longer ones, I'm able to climb better than I did on using the 53/39. Once the racing season moves to the flatter stages, I'm going to change to 52/38. JMHO...


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*650c Reminder*

Reminder that if you are reading about gearing and you ride a 650c wheel it is a bit different. Essentially the 650c will make the gearing easier. A 650c 53x14 is about the same as a 700c 53x15. So basically you get an extra tooth so to speak. Hard to explain but something to keep in mind if someone is running gear charts for you.



il sogno said:


> ...I use 53/39 on the front and have 13-26 on the back. It's good for almost all the climbs I do here in So. California. I am certainly able to get up short 12%-14% stretches with my current setup. I have to admit I wound up walking a 19% climb a few weeks ago...


My wife runs the same setup and is pleased with it. The 13-26 is a great for her especially with the 650c wheels. Lets her spend more time in the big ring and also gives her plenty of climbing gears. il sogno, you might consider a 13-29 for the time being until you set up your new bike. Cindi used it for a ride with a lot of steep hills after being off the bike for two months and appreciated the extra teeth on the 29.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Casettes are a consumeable, like chains. If you ride much you'll be replacing them anyhow (usually one cassette lasts two chains for me). So you'll get a chance to change gears, or wind up with a set of casettes for different types of rides. They're easy to change at home.. Chainrings last longer but are also easy to change.

The chain "wrap" on a 50/34 and 12-27 casette is a few teeth more than the Shimano standard. The chain length has to be just right for it to work. Too short and the chain won't be long enough to go over the 50 ring and the 27t cog. You shouldn't use that combination or the small ring and small cog ( called "cross-chaining") because it wears out the sprockets, but your bike should allow you to shift into those combinations without damaging anything in case you're in a brain fog and make a mistake. If the chain is too short for the large chainring/large cog combination and you shift into it you'll destroy the derailleur or the hanger or the frame.

If the chain is too long, then when you are using the small ring and smaller cogs, the chain on the top jockey wheel will touch the chain on the cog. That doesn't hurt anything but it makes a noise.

When I bought my R3 I had the LBS set it up with a 50/34 and 12-27. They had the chain one link too long so it the chain rubbed as described, so after checking that the chain was long enough I made them take a link out.

While you can find 10sp casettes with larger cogs than 27 I don't think a standard road derailleur can handle the wrap when paired with a 50/34 crank. I put a 9sp DA triple rear derailleur on for that.


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

Keeping up with Junior said:


> il sogno, you might consider a 13-29 for the time being until you set up your new bike. Cindi used it for a ride with a lot of steep hills after being off the bike for two months and appreciated the extra teeth on the 29.


Yeah, my husband has 13-29 on his bike and he motored up that 19% climb.


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## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

*Orbit --*

If that hill you stalled out on, the other week, was indeed pitched between 20% and 30%, you shouldn't beat yourself up about having to walk up it. That amount of steepness is pretty insane. Hell, any climb that contains a stretch of more than 300 meters at 15% - 18% is pretty insane. To keep the front wheel from lifting off the pavement at 20%+ pitches, you have to shift your body forward, which tends to put you in a position that can be highly uncomfortable. Slopes like this are tough to descend on, too. 

Also, at least in my case, I've found there's a practical limit for how low you can go, gear-wise. When the gearing gets really low, it's difficult to go fast enough to keep the bike comfortably upright and heading in a straight direction.


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## jorgy (Oct 21, 2005)

*I'm happy with my 50/34 12-25 setup*

Considering that 35mph is near the upper limit of my speed comfort zone, I certainly don't miss the three teeth on the big ring; 50 are plenty.

I do a fair bit of climbing with my set up. Sure, there are days I could stand a couple more teeth on the back. Mostly I do okay, though.

It is a big drop from 50 to 34 and switching between chainrings involves more planning than with 53/39 because there isn't as much overlap between gears. When I get a bit stronger, I intend to replace the 34 with a 36.


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