# Track conversion question



## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

So, on the road I ride a 56 Cervelo Team Solo. But now that I've been introduced to the world of track riding, road racing as by far taken a back seat to track racing. I'm thinking about stripping down the frame, getting track hubs laced into my current aero wheelset, and riding my same frame. What do you say? If it helps, I ride at Alpenrose OR (16.6m radius turns, 43° banking) and fully plan on doing nothing but match sprints and mabye some keirins.

What do ya think?


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## TurboTurtle (Feb 4, 2004)

PltJett said:


> So, on the road I ride a 56 Cervelo Team Solo. But now that I've been introduced to the world of track riding, road racing as by far taken a back seat to track racing. I'm thinking about stripping down the frame, getting track hubs laced into my current aero wheelset, and riding my same frame. What do you say? If it helps, I ride at Alpenrose OR (16.6m radius turns, 43° banking) and fully plan on doing nothing but match sprints and mabye some keirins.
> 
> What do ya think?


I think you are going to want track ends on the rear, not drop outs. - TF


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## wasfast (Feb 3, 2004)

You also need a higher BB than a road frame to ride Alpenrose. Get a real track bike.


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## warmseth (May 11, 2006)

is the fork and rear drilled for brakes? most tracks will not allow racing on a converted frame. even one as nice as yours.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

What everyone else said. You need a dedicated track bike, esp. if you are going to be racing any. There are some serious safety considerations that need to be addressed when you are riding fixed in a group on a banked track. 

You'll probably end up spending more money on a new bike, but the headache to convert a full road setup to a track setup more than outweighs the cost, IMO. If you sold the Cervelo, you'd have plenty of money for a REALLY nice track bike. 

They wouldn't let you on the Superdrome with that setup. Bottom line, you need to talk to the track monitors at Alpenrose and get their opinion before you do anything.


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

Especially for something like matched sprints where you might have to track stand on the bank you'll want a true track frame with a high bottom bracket. If the Cervelo is your only road bike, keep it, you'll want it later. The trouble of converting it will not go away and will hound you every time you have to make a gear change. 

Check around for a entry level track bike (Bianchi Pista, etc) or if you want to step up check out Bike Central on Nato Parkway in Portland. They have the best selection of track equipment and one of the most knowledgeable track mechanics around.


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## nbrennan (Feb 19, 2007)

The team solo has rearward facing drop outs, if i'm not mistaken.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

nbrennan said:


> The team solo has rearward facing drop outs, if i'm not mistaken.


I'm not sure about that. They look vertical to me. But the dropouts are only one concern. He really needs the higher bottom bracket to prevent pedal strikes. I can guarantee you they are no fun when you are way up on the banking in full hammer mode.


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

I'd say your biggest problem would be the people running the track. At ADT in Los Angeles, they would not allow that kind of frame on the track (for good reason as everyone has pointed out above).

For example, the frame listed here 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=89785

has a BB drop of 50mm (that is about 3/4" higher than a regular road frame). The angles are also steeper, the chain stays shorter, the top tube longer and it has less fork rake. 

A track frame is a different animal........


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

One of the head guys at the track said that if I could do it, then go for it. I've ridden several different kinds of track frames, I just wanted to know if I could get away with using stuff I already have (I'm 18, and have been living on my own for about 3 years....so money is a scarce thing around me, saved for a good long while for that Cervelo).

So I wont try and convert it. Now I'm thinking I might sell the Cervelo (excuse me while I cry inside) and get a nice track bike, then use the left over cash to get a ok road bike. I still have my old Trek 1000 that I could sell too....I'm just getting so damn hooked on track riding that I wouldn't mind really cutting down on road racing, or stopping all togeather


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## warmseth (May 11, 2006)

^that sounds like a very mature decision. do let us know what you pick up.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

PltJett said:


> One of the head guys at the track said that if I could do it, then go for it. I've ridden several different kinds of track frames, I just wanted to know if I could get away with using stuff I already have (I'm 18, and have been living on my own for about 3 years....so money is a scarce thing around me, saved for a good long while for that Cervelo).
> 
> So I wont try and convert it. Now I'm thinking I might sell the Cervelo (excuse me while I cry inside) and get a nice track bike, then use the left over cash to get a ok road bike. I still have my old Trek 1000 that I could sell too....I'm just getting so damn hooked on track riding that I wouldn't mind really cutting down on road racing, or stopping all togeather


I'd try and sell the Trek1000 first. You'll be sorry you sold the Cervelo, esp. when you get back on the Trek. If you look around, there are some good deals to be had in track bikes. www.SpicerCycles.com has a standard aluminum track frame that is a good deal. And Gene might have something sitting around that he would give you a good deal on. Shoot him an email. He'll take care of you. 

If you don't go nuts on the wheels and high bling parts, you can get into a very solid track bike for way less than $1000.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Your best option is to head to the track early for one of their event nights/days and ask the officials or organizers on what's allowed and what's not allowed. But for Alpenrose? Definitely want a track bike.

I picked up my track bike a few years ago out in Washington state while visiting relatives, small well known shop up north of Bremerton just up the street from a ferry terminal (so well known that I forget the name of it, but it's in the post a pic of your fixie thread if you search on my name). Plan was to ride it at Kenosha and other regional tracks here in the midwest, but got married, just now finally starting to get back in the game. But enough of that stuff....

The current/newest issue of the Road Bike Action magazine has a velodrome article in it and also has reviews/specs of many current track bike offerings. I almost didn't buy this issue until I saw that article and review of bikes. Might be worth tracking down a copy just to show what's currently available. And I'm certain that once you connect with the local track riders you'll come across a fair amount of gear for sale.

One nice thing about riding on a velodrome is that you'll rarely have a car pull out in front of you. 

And SPRINTS????? EXCELLENT!!!!! All strategy, brute force, endurance, raw speed and accelleration. Start working on your engine now, next year you'll be shopping for new pants because your old ones won't fit over your legs once you get them into sprint shape. Keep us all posted of your progress, bike and track pics are always great as far as I'm concerned.:thumbsup:


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

As I see no need to waste more bandwidth than needed, I'll just keep asking track related questions in here. First off, I LOVE graduation. I was gifted a total of $860, with the purpose of most of that going to building up a track bike! I might have a really, really odd relationship with my parents, but they really made me happy with this. SO. With that being said, this is the build I'm looking at:

Leader 375TR frame
Leader carbon track fork
IS6 Cane Creek Headset 
Leader expanding cap
Leader carbon seat post
Velocity deep V Wheels (I know everyone and their dog has these, but for right now, they'll get the job done)
FSA Carbon Pro Track crank
FSA Platinum Pro Track BB
Deda Elementi Newton Pista 110mm 67° stem
Deda Elementi Velocita bars
D.I.D Racing-Pro chain
DA Cogs

I have a spare seat I can use. The build comes up to 1200-1300, which I can afford. Wondering what you all think? Or, if you have other suggestions, I'm more than willing for them. I just really dont want any of the super common bikes that everyone has, and I'm going to only be using it for sprinting.

Thanks guys


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## warmseth (May 11, 2006)

what hubs are you going to run with your deep v wheels?


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

A set of high flange Formula/IRO/Velocity. Basically something in the $200 range on ebay.....


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## warmseth (May 11, 2006)

in my opinion your hubs are maybe THE most important part of the bike. you have some of the most expensive parts on your list (the crankset among them) but a relatively cheap hubset. i might make the choice to go big on the hubset and save $ on the bars or somewhere where a few ounces might not make as much difference as a smooth lovely hub. that said, you CAN just buy ceramic bearings for WHATEVER hubset you get and they'll be pretty damn nice. 

all this is my 2 cents.


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

A leader track frame has a BB drop of 70mm. Thats no different than a road frame. It would be a shame if you bought the bike and it turns out that it doesn't work that well on your local track.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Then what would you suggest? I assumed that when they said "pure track geo", that it would fit.....


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

So this is what I'm thinking: if you want to get into track cycling don't be so fixated on getting something that is really nice or original. You probably can't go wrong with a basic beginning track bike as long as the geometry is okay. You might consider going to Alpenrose on a race night and asking around and seeing what the beginners are using. If you can't show up in person, go to www.fixedgearfever.com and post up a question in the beginner or technical forum.

If you really get into the sport, you'll eventually figure out your exact needs.

Here are some things you might want to think about when you are buying a track bike.

1) A sub 60 BB drop. A 50mm drop can be used on practically any track at low speeds. I'm guessing at Alpenrose you probably can't get away with anything more than 55mm, but you'd have to ask the locals. BB drop doesn't matter too much once you get to speed, but if you are going to try match sprints there will be times when you are going fairly slow.

2) It's preferable to have a 144mm BCD cranks if you want an easily accessible selection of gears. A lot of stock bikes these days come with cranks with road size chain rings. If you can get a selection of gears using a road BCD, that isn't bad, but in my experience it's hard to find chainrings in 47 - 51t sizes unless you have 144mm BCD cranks.

good luck.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

I'm out at the track about 3 times a week. Most everyone is running Bianchi Pistas or Fuji Tracks......or the rental GT bikes. My issue with getting a starter track bike is that in the near future, I'm going to want a better bike, and I wont have the cash then. But I have the cash now.....


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## LeaderBike (Nov 7, 2003)

*Track Gemometry*

We played around with BB drops. We even went up to a 35mm drop. We feel as well as our local track team, (who won last week at Encino) makes the bike more twitchey. We prefer a stable platform using the 70mm BB drop.

Brian


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Just wish that would run well on a 43° bank. I would have loved to used the 735......unless you guys would sell the 35mm frame?


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## LeaderBike (Nov 7, 2003)

We do not like the 35mm BB drop. We will continue to make Track geometry frames with the 70mm BB drop. It is what rides best and it is what our 735TR satisfied customers prefer. Our frames are raced all over the world including the UK and in the new ADT track at Los Angeles.

http://www.homedepotcenter.com/venues/customadtevent.sps?iType=4176&icustompageid=6773

Our team races here once a month.

Brian


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Ok, so who doesn't have their facts stright? Tobu: You are saying that I shouldnt use a BB drop of more than 55mm, when Brian is saying that they run a 70mm drop on a 45° track??????

Oh, and for the record, I was joking about you selling me the prototype 35mm frame. Didn't figure that you would keep building them if you didnt like them


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

Leaderbike, 

I'm not saying that you make a bad track bike. God knows there are probably tons of track bikes with 70mm bb drops in some of the flatter tracks in Australia or Japan.

Just because your bikes are used at ADT doesn't really mean much. Pedal strike is going to be a function of BB drop, tire width, cranklength, pedal choice, and speed. 

The OP was asking specifically about match sprint as an event. The truth is, you could probably run 180mm cranks and 100mm drop on any track if you were riding fast enough. However, the match sprint often requires weaving, stopping, and slow speed maneuvers, during which the bike isn't really leaned over. Hence the danger of pedal strike.

I understand that your riders found 35mm to be twitchy. Perhaps not the right analogy, but different horses for different courses. I wouldn't want a twitchy bike in a derny race or perhaps a team pursuit. Most match sprinters, however, usually prefer a little twitchiness: the ability to change direction instantly is important in a sprint.

I'm not trying to say that you make a bad track bike. I'm just saying it's probably not right for the OP's needs.


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## LeaderBike (Nov 7, 2003)

*Thank You Tobu*

Here are the facts, by raising the BB height you now need the longer crank set, Second you now sit higher, Bike is now harder to ride and less maneuverable. This is why it is a half and half situation. OP you are welcome to use any bike you want but I can assure you will ride well on our geometry as many others have. Yes we recommend a crank set no longer than 170mm. Standard on the track and used by most is 160mm, 165mm, and 170mm crank arm length. But if you use the 35mm or 55mm BB height then I can see why you would g up to the 175mm and 180mm. So you see it is pretty much the same thing except you get more stability with the 70mm and you sit correctly on the Bike. 

Our team as well as most of our 735TR customers race track in all types of events. 

Tobu if you have any questions please send them to me [email protected] I am at your service.

Brian


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

And on top of that, I'm not too worried about a strike a low speed just because I don't plan on going slow. I know that the first part of match sprints are all cat and mouse, but if I'm going to be going slow, I'll be on the apron, or going 15+(traction speed).

So with that, I refer back to my original question about the build. I understand that I should go with a nice wheelset before anything else? Anyone else have any suggestions on the build?


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

LeaderBike said:


> Here are the facts, by raising the BB height you now need the longer crank set, ...
> ...
> But if you use the 35mm or 55mm BB height then I can see why you would g up to the 175mm and 180mm.
> ...


Why?????
Why couldn't someone use a 165 crank length on a 35mm, 55mm, and 70mm setup? Going from a frame at 70mm to a frame at the 55mm dimension does not mean the rider "has" to also increase crank length per my understanding. Granted I'm not a frame builder, but to me one does not necessarily force a change to the other. Keeping a 165 crank and going from a lower BB to a higher BB would give more clearance, no?


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

*???????*



LeaderBike said:


> Here are the facts, by raising the BB height you now need the longer crank set, Second you now sit higher, Bike is now harder to ride and less maneuverable. This is why it is a half and half situation. OP you are welcome to use any bike you want but I can assure you will ride well on our geometry as many others have. Yes we recommend a crank set no longer than 170mm. Standard on the track and used by most is 160mm, 165mm, and 170mm crank arm length. But if you use the 35mm or 55mm BB height then I can see why you would g up to the 175mm and 180mm. So you see it is pretty much the same thing except you get more stability with the 70mm and you sit correctly on the Bike.
> 
> Our team as well as most of our 735TR customers race track in all types of events.
> 
> ...


No one is suggesting that a track bike should run 175 or 180mm cranks and your rationale for using them makes no sense. Your efforts to promote your bike is admirable, but I will have to tell you bluntly: your frame is not a good frame for match sprinting on a steep track. As I pointed out earlier your bike doesn't fulfill any of the requirements of a match sprint bike and just stating that you have a "team" doesn't make it so. Your frame seems to be a good fixed gear at a very reasonable price point, but it can't do what it's not designed to do.


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

PltJett said:


> And on top of that, I'm not too worried about a strike a low speed just because I don't plan on going slow. I know that the first part of match sprints are all cat and mouse, but if I'm going to be going slow, I'll be on the apron, or going 15+(traction speed).
> 
> So with that, I refer back to my original question about the build. I understand that I should go with a nice wheelset before anything else? Anyone else have any suggestions on the build?


I'll try one last time to convince you, but it's your money. If you don't plan on going slow, you 're handcuffing yourself tactically and you will always cede the rear position. You say that you will always either ride the apron or go 15+. So when your opponent goes slowly uptrack you will do what? Ride slowly along the bottom while he gains elevation? Try to turn up track and crash? Go from 2 laps out?

Another scenario: so now you've been forced to lead out at a reasonable speed because your bike can't go slow. You can't rock the bike very much since you might get pedal strike that you wouldn't get in the saddle. Your opponent feints high, and as you turn your bike uptrack he flicks down to the sprinters lane. But because your bike is too stable, your bike is still trying to turn while he slides underneath you.

I could make up a tons of fictitious scenarios, some of which may happen, but if you don't have an option of going slow you're not going to get very far in match sprinting.

Good luck.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Look. I'm in a delima. On one side I have a company telling me one thing, and someone else telling me another. They are both talking to someone who doesn't know a whole lot about track, but is trying to learn everything I can. It's an aero frame, and its cheap. I mean, if I had the cash, I'd get the Bridgestone Anchor......but I don't. Can you suggest a similar type frame? I'm not saying either of you are wrong, I'm just trying to figure out what frame would be the best for me that I wouldn't need to put too much more cash into to make a great bike


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## LeaderBike (Nov 7, 2003)

*We are the manufacturer*

I have decided to stay out of this thread. Too many opionions. We are a manufacturer and stand by what we make. We know track bikes and have been making them for years.

If i can be of service to anyone my e-mail is [email protected]

Brian


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## Infamous (Sep 21, 2006)

A lower BB will always make the bike feel more stable, which is great, but you want reasonable height so as not to hit your pedal on the banking. Are these Leader guys doing sprints? I don't think I'd want a low BB when rolling around the banking at low speed. But, if it works, then great.


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

How about taking no advice on the internet? You go to the track 3 times a week. Find a friendly, well respected experienced racer who knows something about sprinting at your track and ask for advice. Explain your situation. They can probably give way better information than myself or leaderbike behind a keyboard.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

If I took no advice from the net, then why the hell does this site exist? Anyway, this thread isnt going anywhere, just let it die. I was hoping I could get some good advice on other frames, but thats not happening.


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

If you are looking for online information go the big manufacturer websites. 

Then after looking at geometry, you can come to your own conclusion and consensus regarding track geometry.

Also make sure you look at real track frames and not road version single speeds or fixed gears.


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## ukiahb (Jan 26, 2003)

PltJett said:


> snip...
> 
> So with that, I refer back to my original question about the build. I understand that I should go with a nice wheelset before anything else? Anyone else have any suggestions on the build?


I'd highly recommend the Sugino 75 crankset, the chainrings are almost perfectly true and round so chain tension is easy to set and is consistent....excellent quality overall


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

PltJett said:


> What do ya think?


PltJett,

Keep an eye on your local craigslist as well as the classifieds on the site here, good deals do show up from time to time. A Trek T1 just popped up on the local Milwaukee site for $600.
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik/345162919.html
https://images.craigslist.org/0101020103110104092007060484b6d009b6efb478a5002033.jpg


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

PltJett said:


> So with that, I refer back to my original question about the build. I understand that I should go with a nice wheelset before anything else? Anyone else have any suggestions on the build?


Are you going tubular or clincher?
Many of the track racers I used to talk with out west would have different tires depending on the track and weather conditions they were racing in. Some would go so far as to swap tires depending on if they were racing on a cool high humidity Friday night or a hot Saturday afternoon or if it had recently rained versus not rained for days. Then if they were heading from Marymoor to a board track somewhere they would swap out their outdoor tires for some boardtrack tire compounds. And tubulars being a different animal than clinchers most of them had several wheelsets with them.

I'd suggest at least two complete wheelsets in case the active set flats or gets bend in a mishap or crash, or if one gets accidently stepped on. Stuff happens, backup gear keeps you in the race. The second set could be a training set that gets put into race service if the race wheels get bit.

Then there's the typical range of gearing and spare chains, spare cogs and chainrings, assorted tools, good high pressure pump for those 150+psi tires some use that a typical pump can't handle. Throw in a spare helmet too "just in case". All it takes is an accidental drop-kick tumble to get the helmet DQ'd by the officials.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

What I figure I'd do is run clinchers for right now, until I get enough cash to get a couple different wheel sets. Plus I already have several high end clinchers, although I'll end up getting a set of Tufos.

And yes, I'll get several spare cogs and chain....

So now I have my eyes set of the Felt TK2. Doesn't look like a bad machine at all. Love the lines. Gonna pop down to the LBS and see if they have one I could check out


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

PltJett said:


> So now I have my eyes set of the Felt TK2. Doesn't look like a bad machine at all. Love the lines. Gonna pop down to the LBS and see if they have one I could check out


Looks like a nice bike:
http://www.feltracing.com/06/06_track/tk2/geo.html (BB drop of 45 per their site)

You might also look at the Fuji Track Pro:
http://www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=285&subcat=2 (BB drop of 50 per their site)
Fuji also has a couple models in the $500 range which would give you financial room for extras and upgrades.

The Ridley Oval is MSRP at $899 per the Road Bike Action article:
http://www.ridley-bikes.com/lang/us/road.asp

Lots of people like the Bianchi Pista line:
http://www.bianchiusa.com/07_track.html

Then there's the Leader bike you're already familiar with:
http://leaderbikeusa.com/modules/edito/content.php?id=35
(I'm web-browser impaired and can't get to their geometry page/specs.)
Edit: found a link to their geometry:
http://www.leaderbikestore.com/pd_ld_735tr.cfm

But it might be good to see what your local shop has available, nothing quite like being able to test sit and possibly test ride a bike to see what really works for you and to really understand what all the variables really boil down to in the final product feel and performance.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Is that ridley MSRP for just the frame/fork? Or is that the whole setup? The wheelset that is showed on their website is a $500 set...I'm just having a issue finding the full frame MSRP. If I remember right, their is a super small LBS that has some Ridley stuff that'll I'll have to go check out when I'm out looking at the TK2 and the Pro.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Not sure if it's a complete bike or just a frameset, I just typed in the links from the magazine article to make it easier for you to search.

My track bike which I finally got after dozens of years of wanting one would take about $1,000 to buy it from me, and I bought it used.

A LBS, if they support or have an interest in track bikes and velodromes, is a great asset and a great place to form a relationship with. A local shop near here has a trackie in it who makes an annual purchase of tubular tires, tire glue, and other stuff for some of the local riders. A great service for the local track riders to get their seasonal needs taken care of and a way for the shop he works at to generate a little discounted seasonal business. 

Keep us posted on what you find out at your local shops.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Will do. I don't ever remember seeing any track bikes in there, but I know that they are one of the sponceres of the velo.......so..........well see. Right now just waiting for the girfriend for a ride  (It's raining like hell and I don't see any reason to ride in it )

What bike are you on right now?


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

I remember the rains well from growing up southeast of Seattle and visiting relatives around Salem and Silverton. Been raining a bunch here in Wisconsin lately, reminds me of home. 

Some shops don't have their niche bikes out on display, or just build them up to order and out the door they go as soon as they are done. You might be surprised at what they have hanging around their basement or in their attic.



PltJett said:


> What bike are you on right now?


Right now I'm sitting in a cubicle. 

A year or two ago I was working part time in a local bike shop and picked up a LeMond Fillmore at discount, about the only way I could have afforded one, currently using it as a singlespeed road bike but will flop the wheel to the fixed side once I've got my legs back some.

The track bike I have is an older (late 1970's to early 1990's) Quattro Assi with a full complement of Campy group. Not sure where I put the pedals during the last move so have a set of Look pedals on there currently. Too many excuses as to why I haven't hit Kenosha with it yet, but it is still in the plans to do so one day.

I've also got a Colnago MasterLight that I picked up at a LBS where it had hung on the wall for several years as a frameset. Had it built up with some local racer's trade-in group, Shimano 600 8-speed. Raced it in a local crit a year or two ago during one of the Superweek races ( www.internationalcycling.com), was no where close to being in any condition to race, but signed up anyway, thought I was going to die, put more laps in warming up than racing, dropped out early before dropping dead, but it was fun while it lasted. Plan is to do more of that as well. I somehow find myself now in my 50's, but it's still fun, my wife thinks I'm nuts occasionally, but it keeps me young even though I've somehow found myself carrying an extra 40 pounds of lard that I've apparently picked up somewhere over the years (not enough riding I guess).

I've also got a variety of other bikes of various shape, age, condition, hanging around the house. Nothing fancy, but still fun, like the old Schwinn 2-speed brake to shift cruiser.

Probably more than you wanted to know.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Hey, anything I can read about bikes, I like. Just got back from the shop, rode a TK2. Wow.......ummmmm........hi. All that needs to be said is that I'll be picking it up tommrow. I was oddly amazed that a 54 fit me....but it did. Now I just hope it stops raining so I'll have a chance to go ride it at the track tommrow!

Thanks for the help guys.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Excellent. Post pics if you can, of the bike _and_ the track. Would be fun if you could post a pic with the bike upright on the banking showing the pedal clearance. 

You're going to have a blast.:thumbsup:


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Haha. That'll I'll do. Gah! I'm so excited! Now, I just have to figure out how to rig a uber cheap trailer to haul the bike on. As I don't have a car, I'll just use my Trek or Cervelo (thats a though, a Cervelo as a utility bike.....) to haul the Felt to the track...shouldnt be that hard too do


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

Many riders in my area use one of these:

http://www.canecreek.com/crosstop_lvr.html

with a front brake because they are easily removable (under 2 minutes). If you are in a hilly area you could even have a flip flop hub for the commute to the track.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

"Uber cheap" :
https://www.carryfreedom.com/bamboo.html 

$30 trailer:
https://www.instructables.com/id/ENK7HBIQG6EP286RJK/?comments=all

$50 trailer about half-way down the page:
https://www.makezine.com/blog/archive/2006/10/21.html

Something like this could probably be rigged up with a bike rack and fork clamp:
https://www.bikeped.org/CargoTrailer.html

There's a guy out in Oregon someplace that makes rack to haul kayaks and bicycles on his motorcycle:
https://www.pashnit.com/pics/misc/gxrbikeside2.jpg

Another option, maybe with a BOB trailer type of connection of some sort?
https://www.justxr.com/cycbycyc/cycbycyc2.jpg

Or this guyps idea:
https://www.eland.org.uk/jpegs/trailers/bikepath.jpg
https://www.eland.org.uk/pages/trailer2.html

Google image searching can be fun


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

What I'm thinking of is making a V shape out of wood with a couple of reusible burly zip ties and then throwing a couple wheels on in the back. Basically the exact same design as all the roof top racks, but with wheels. Wouldn't be hard to make at all.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

PltJett said:


> Hey, anything I can read about bikes, I like. Just got back from the shop, rode a TK2. Wow.......ummmmm........hi. All that needs to be said is that I'll be picking it up tommrow.


Today is yesterday's tomorrow, so where is our ride report???????


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Hehehe. It was incredible. No pics yet (going back out today to work on my flying 200....I'll get some then). The thing rides like a dream. Perfect amount of twitchyness and stability. On those rental GTs, it took a lot of fighting to keep the bike on a line in the sprinters lane, but with the Felt, it was just glued. Did a couple races on it. 1st was a miss and out, got 3ed behind a cat 1 and cat 2 guys. Next was a unknown distance. It was down to the last 4 (same guys and the last race, plus another cat 2 guy about to drop off the back, it was at 14 laps at this point.) We went into turn 1, I was leading out in the sprinters lane. Well, all three of them desided to overtake me, and started pushing me down the track. That got to the point where I actually got shoved onto the apron.....that sucked. So I was really trying to slow, plus make a rather tight turn on the apron, all while yelling at the other guys that I was off the track. Ended up comming back onto the track. Then I just pulled off. After the race they told me that they were just trying to see how far they could push the rookie. They were all real good guys.

God, I'm so addicted to this sport!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Like I said, I'll be going out again today to work on my 200s. I'll get some pics then


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Here are the promised pics:



















As for the peddal clearence question, I tried pretty hard to clip one today and couldnt. Got damn close, but didn't. And a note on this pic: if you have never tried to climb up a 43° bank, dont try it.


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Very very nice. Somehow I don't think you'll be known as the track newbie for very long.

I didn't know the Felt had that wheel clearanced seat tube like that, neat stuff. Makes my QA look completely ancient by comparison.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Haha, but I bet it has a lot more personality.

Placed 6 out of 14 today. Had a 10 lap points race, points every lap, 15 lap scratch, and 15 lap points, points every 5. Deffently not for me. But I'll be in the sprints in 2 weeks.


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## tobu (Dec 19, 2004)

At your level, ride and look forward to everything. Most good sprinters can win any beginning level endurance race. You don't have to train tons of miles like Nothstein, but it does help to have a little endurance if you want to do well in the later sprint rounds.

With a little fitness, you'll be surprised at how well you can do in some of the shorter "endurance" races, especially events like the scratch, unknown distance, win-and-out, etc...
Many good sprinters will look like death during the race, but when the bell rings all bets are off. If they can't drop you, watch out!


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

My main thing is learning and knowing how to work the pack. I wasn't even breathing hard by the end of the scratch race. I just couldn't do anything. Keep getting trapped at the bottom.


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## JaeP (Mar 12, 2002)

*Gearing?*

Just curious what size gearing are you running on the Felt? I'm running a 45x14 which gives me 85.6 gear inches. I'm thinking it might be too big for me. Anyway, not to put any more fuel on the fire but I just finished building up a 2006 Leader 735TR. (here's a link). 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=96363

I love it but I don't to match sprints. Your next purchase should be a good set of tubular tires. They make a world of difference. I scored a set of Vittoria Corsa EVO-CX tubualrs (with latex tubes and a 200psi rating) for 3 bucks apiece at my local veloswap.

Good luck.


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## PltJett (Nov 23, 2006)

Yea, I saw that paint job. Absoultly incredible paint job.

I'm running a 48X15 right now. It's a touch small for me. I'll probally go with a 49x15 and see how that goes.

And yes, my next buy will be a set of tubies and wheels. Either that or a new set of bars. The stock ones curve too sharp for my monster hands to fit nice in. Either that or I'll go to my step dads house and use his pipe bender....*evil grin. I'm still looking at wheel sets. Would really like to go tri-spoke on the front, with something else on the back. And Tufo for the tires.


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