# Surly Cross-Check Build Suggestions



## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

So I've been reading these forums and talking with my friends and I really like the idea of a cyclocross ss/fixie bike. I will mainly be using the bike to commute, ride some trails and just as an all around bike. I have always wanted to try the ss/fixed thing, so I am going to build from the ground up a decent cyclocross singlespeed/fixie for my needs. This isn't a race or training bike (I have a Litespeed for that) and I don't want to convert my Litespeed, I want a separate bike as a dedicated ss/fixie, and something that lends itself to all kinds of other activities!

I was hoping to get some feedback about my choice of parts and any suggestions for my build (anything I might have missed)

My budget is about $1500 for everything

Here is what I am thinking

Surly Cross-Check Frame and Fork
White Industries Bottom Bracket
Paul Touring Cantilever Brakes
Shimano Regular Single Freewheel - 18t
Shimano Dura-Ace Track Cog - 14t/15t
KMC K710SL SuperLite Kool Chain
Sugino Messenger Crankarms
Surly Stainless Steel Chainring - 42t
Easton EA70 Drop Bars
Chris King NoThreadSet
Crank Brothers Eggbeater SL Pedals
WTB Rocket V Pro Saddle
Thomson Elite Road Seat Post
Shimano BR600 Brake Levers
Thomson X2 Road Stem

Here is the wheelset I am thinking would go well with that build.

Surly 100mm Front Hub
Surly 135mm Rear Flip-Flop Fixed/FW Hub
Velocity Deep V Machined Rims
DT Swiss Champion Spokes
Michelin Mud 2 Tires

So all that puts me at about the $1500 mark, and I figure that would make for a good build. All the other pre-built bikes I priced in that range just included too many parts I know I would want to upgrade, so I figured it would just be easier to put together something myself.

This is my first ss so I figured I would begin with a 42x18 to start and a 42x15 for the fixed gear. This is more of a casual bike so I don't need anything crazy aggressive.

Any feedback or advice would be great.

Thanks


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

That sounds like an excellent build_.....very_ nice parts selection

Why the WI bottom bracket? I'm just curious as I'm kind of a BB freak..don't get me wrong, it's a great BB...


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

I wasn't sure which BB to get, and I've herd good things about WI (not the BB specifically, but the company's other parts).

Any other suggestions? Phil Wood was on my list too.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

You can't go wrong with either...Phil is bullet proof...I have no experince with the WI BB but I suspect it is as well.....Their other products sure are


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

unless you know that the thomson/no-setback post will get your saddle in the proper position, you might also consider the layback version


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## vatukoula gold (May 27, 2008)

Looks like a solid build. I find mine to be very comfortable and very stable for recreational and light off-road (w/ Bontrager 29x1.8's). Longest ride to date is ~ 135 miles at a gravel road race in Nebraska (ss). I've also used it to recon most of the route for this rendition of TransIowa (a couple century plus days, etc.) I use Phil Wood hubs and bb because I find it easy to set the chain line. I don't have any experience w/ the WI, though.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LCPNKxAWuj8N7tUyPEBsHg?authkey=g7OfjiTfvAo&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.ggpht.com/_baN8BhM8iSE/SLd9_3vq7bI/AAAAAAAAANE/nMLVlpXORpU/s400/IMG_2926.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/VatukoulaGold/CrossCheck?authkey=g7OfjiTfvAo&feat=embedwebsite">CrossCheck</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BgOvlC1pOboWgbRtLT3u7A?authkey=g7OfjiTfvAo&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.ggpht.com/_baN8BhM8iSE/SLd9_ZeiKRI/AAAAAAAAAM0/eoHU8MmggbU/s400/IMG_2921.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/VatukoulaGold/CrossCheck?authkey=g7OfjiTfvAo&feat=embedwebsite">CrossCheck</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Af2-H3jj3h1O2YtfaXh3zA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.ggpht.com/_baN8BhM8iSE/SVzf1xgz0-I/AAAAAAAAA3c/lpERNnkX9b4/s400/IMG_3447.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/VatukoulaGold/NewYear09?feat=embedwebsite">New Year '09</a></td></tr></table>





<br /><a href="https://vimeo.com/2251174">Somewhere on the T.I. v.V route</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user762852">David Pals</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.


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## Hollywood (Jan 16, 2003)

Dave Hickey said:


> You can't go wrong with either...Phil is bullet proof...I have no experince with the WI BB but I suspect it is as well.....Their other products sure are


I'd go Phil if you want 'set it and forget it'. I have a WI ti BB thats been back for warranty replacement.


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## seeborough (Feb 3, 2004)

I like your build ideas. I'd swap the Shimano freewheel for a WI and, to be a little different, the Deep-Vs for a set of Salsa Delgado Cross rims. 

Other than that, you just need to send me your completed bike for an objective test ride.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

seeborough said:


> I like your build ideas. I'd swap the Shimano freewheel for a WI


I do intend to get a WI freewheel once I figure out the size I am comfortable with, but I figure it isn't worth it to spend $100 on a size I am not 100% certain about


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

I was doing more reading and looking at the Phil Wood bottom bracket and hubs. From what I have read everyone can only say good things about them, and they are supposed to be bullet proof. 

Is it worth the price difference to upgrade from the Surly's ($115) vs Phil Wood ($290)


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Phil Wood is a great, long-term investment.
Expensive, YES; Durable and Trouble-Free; Absolutely!


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

All of that stuff is pretty top shelf, I'd say swap some cheaper alternatives and use the extra cash for fenders or if you can save enough a second wheelset, one with cross tires, one with commute tires.

For example, the brake levers. The Shimanos run $100(?) msrp, look for a set of Tektro R200s which are $20 and have a higher comfort level. Once you are sure about gearing pick up a WI SS freewheel here for $50. For the wheelset I'd go with a 130mm spaced rear. The spacers can be removed to make it 120mm spaced which can then be sold easier or go on a track frame.

I finished a fixed Crosscheck build a few months ago and it's been great.


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## seeborough (Feb 3, 2004)

*I have an idea.*



timackerman said:


> I do intend to get a WI freewheel once I figure out the size I am comfortable with, but I figure it isn't worth it to spend $100 on a size I am not 100% certain about


You'd like a 17, please.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

asterisk said:


> All of that stuff is pretty top shelf, I'd say swap some cheaper alternatives and use the extra cash for fenders or if you can save enough a second wheelset, one with cross tires, one with commute tires.
> 
> For example, the brake levers. The Shimanos run $100(?) msrp, look for a set of Tektro R200s which are $20 and have a higher comfort level. Once you are sure about gearing pick up a WI SS freewheel here for $50. For the wheelset I'd go with a 130mm spaced rear. The spacers can be removed to make it 120mm spaced which can then be sold easier or go on a track frame.
> 
> I finished a fixed Crosscheck build a few months ago and it's been great.


First off, great looking Cross-check :thumbsup: 

Second, I'm not sure I really need/want a second wheelset. I already have a road bike for training and whatnot, this is more a casual commuter/light trails/first ss/all around bike, so I just want to build it and then not worry about upgrading parts. 

I'm still trying to figure out what hubs I want to get. Phil's look great, but I am not sure I can justify the substantial cost difference over the Surly's. I know the Phil's are built to last, but I won't be particularly hard on the bike (i.e mud, rain, snow, etc.) very much, so I hope the Surly's can take that!


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## Howzitbroke (Jun 1, 2005)

I love Surly hubs. I have ridden Pauls, worked on and am very familiar with White Industries and Phils but in my world the Surlys can't be touched for the price. They hold adjustment better than many of the boutique models with their old school axle. I like big steel knurled axle interfaces at the dropouts. Don't even need tugs. I have them on my mtb and cross bike and am always trolling e-bay for cheap ones. 

If I was you I would run an mtb crank for chainline. They have a more offset spider than road/track cranks. You will be running a 135mm rear hub and would need a 107 bb spindle if you run the chainring in the outer position on an mtb crank, or a 113 if you run the ring in the middle position. I don't know off hand on the road crank what bb spindle you'd need, but 135 is the standard mtb hub width. I have set up a bunch of cross and mtb's ss and this works for me.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

Howzitbroke said:


> I love Surly hubs. I have ridden Pauls, worked on and am very familiar with White Industries and Phils but in my world the Surlys can't be touched for the price. They hold adjustment better than many of the boutique models with their old school axle. I like big steel knurled axle interfaces at the dropouts. Don't even need tugs. I have them on my mtb and cross bike and am always trolling e-bay for cheap ones.
> 
> If I was you I would run an mtb crank for chainline. They have a more offset spider than road/track cranks. You will be running a 135mm rear hub and would need a 107 bb spindle if you run the chainring in the outer position on an mtb crank, or a 113 if you run the ring in the middle position. I don't know off hand on the road crank what bb spindle you'd need, but 135 is the standard mtb hub width. I have set up a bunch of cross and mtb's ss and this works for me.


Great information! Thanks :thumbsup:


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Good point on the mtb crank/ss hub chainline issue. SS specific hubs put the chainline further out.


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## superjohnny (May 16, 2006)

jmlapoint said:


> Phil Wood is a great, long-term investment.
> Expensive, YES; Durable and Trouble-Free; Absolutely!


The Shimano Deore LX BB on my Crosscheck has been there for years with no trouble after thousands of miles. I can see spending a little extra for a Chris King headset or Phil Wood hubs, but a BB? If installed and maintained properly these things should last forever. And if it goes then drop the $25 on a new one. It's a good excuse to go to the LBS  

Also, I'm with seeborough on the Salsa rims instead of Deep V's. Deep V's do absolutely nothing for me. You can usually save yourself some $$ by finding a used set of Steamroller wheels. I got mine as-new for $200 on CL.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

So based on some suggestions from here, and a little more research, I have modified my build a little. The items in RED are the modified items. I'm at about $1700 (including shipping) but I can live with that. 

Any further ideas??

Thanks

Surly Cross-Check Frame and Fork
Phil Wood Bottom Bracket
Paul Touring Cantilever Brakes
Shimano Regular Single Freewheel - 16t/18t
Shimano Dura-Ace Track Cog - 14t/15t
KMC K710SL SuperLite Kool Chain
White Industries ENO Singlespeed Crankset
White Industries Chainring - 38t
Easton EA50 Road Bars
Chris King NoThreadSet
Crank Brothers Eggbeater SL Pedals
Fizik Arione Ti Saddle (pulled from road bike to save some money)
Thomson Elite Setback Road Seat Post
Cane Creek Drop V Brake Levers
Thomson X2 Road Stem

Wheelset build

Surly 100mm Front Hub
Surly 135mm Rear Flip-Flop Fixed/FW Hub
Velocity Deep V Machined Rims
DT Swiss Champion Spokes
Ritchey SpeedMax Cross Pro Tire

I would love Phil Wood hubs, but the cost difference is just too much right now. Maybe for my next wheelset


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## superjohnny (May 16, 2006)

Hmmm I dunno. The Steamroller is $600 complete. I'd save the $1,000 if I were you.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

superjohnny said:


> Hmmm I dunno. The Steamroller is $600 complete. I'd save the $1,000 if I were you.


But I would have to replace the chain ring immediately as I don't want to go 47x19
It can't run a rear brake (not my ideal because I intend to take it off road!)
I'm not sure how wide tires I can run (I'm thinking I want a minimum 32 leaning toward 35)
It just doesn't fit my criteria of what I am looking for.


On the other hand if I just want to buy a pre-built cross/commuter there are various options, such as:

Bianchi San Jose
Raleigh One Way
Masi Speciale Commuter
Salsa Casseroll Single
Kona Paddy Wagon
Redline 9-to-5

The Casseroll Single caught my eye, and looking at the components, it is relatively similar to my build, but just lacking some of the higher end parts I have included


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

Surly hubs are very fine.


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## timackerman (Dec 1, 2008)

Well I have pretty much decided on the parts for the build, thanks to everyone for their input. Now I need to determine the frame size I need. There aren't any shops in town with a Cross-Check in stock so I need your help with sizing.

Height: 5'10.5"
Pubic Bone: 32"

I'm debating between a 54 and 56 frame, leaning toward a 56. This is a commuting bike, with occassional trails, and occassional long hauls and no racing or serious stuff. I think the 56 will be better because it will allow a smaller drop between seat and bars (which I want) but most sizing charts I have read say to go with about a 54 frame. I don't want to feel cramped which is why I'm leaning toward a 56.

Thanks for your opinions.


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