# Madone 6.x steerer plug



## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

I want to cut the steerer on my 2010 Madone 6.5. It's full carbon and has a compression plug. The plug is currently about 3/4" below the top of the steerer, right where I want to do the cutting. Do I just tap it down further into the steerer so it ends up 3/4" below my new cut or is there some other procedure? Is the metal sleeve with the cutout part of the disk with the hole in it or does the disk slide within that metal sleeve?

Here are some pics:






































Thanks


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## SilverBack14 (Mar 31, 2010)

If it's like the aluminum ones I have cut you will need to tap it down further. There is a tool that screws on to the piece that you tap down the tube w/ a mallet/hammer/frozen banana. 

Why not take to the LBS where you bought it? I am sure they would be happy to do it or at least loan you the steering tube cut tool.

OR...

From the Trek site: http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/owners_manuals/TK10_Madoneservice_062309.pdf

Go to "Cutting a carbon fiber steerer" section.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Measure twice, cut once.

To answer your specific questions: 

Yes, you have to "tap" the compression nut down further into the steerer tube.
Yes, the short 3-4mm lip on the compression disc with the cutout is part of the compression disc.
But sometimes there is also a sleeve inside the steerer tube, and No, the sleeve is not a part of the compression nut, but it should extend down, well into the steerer tube. It is there to prevent nut cut on the inside of the steerer tube, but also you can tap the nut beyond the sleeve and remove and readjust if you screw up and push the nut too far in. If for some reason the sleeve does not extend down far enough, then you will be able to take it out and push it down yourself, likewise the compression nut will also be able to be removed.

Best way is to get the proper tool. Park makes one. Or you could borrow one, since these are usually one time use tools for the home mechanic. An alternative is to use a wooden dowel that grabs the upturned lip to the compression nut, and just fits inside the steerer tube. Insert dowel, mark it at the top of the steerer tube. Remove the spacers that you are going to remove and align them up on the dowel and remark the dowel. That will be your maximum depth. You may want to build this out with some tape so you don't go too far. Now gently tap the nut down into the steerer. Go slow and carefully, because you cannot take the nut out once you push it further in.

Next step is to mark the steerer tube in the same way, with the removed spacers. Then cut. 

FWIW, I work on all my own bikes, I have an extensive shop, and will completely disassemble a new bike prior to its first ride, and this is a 5 minute job at best. But, cutting a steerer is one of the few jobs I let my mechanic at my LBS do. If they screw it up, the new fork is on them. I am not saying you are going to screw it up, and I am not saying you need specialized tools, but the right tools certainly make the job easier. And as I said, they are, at least to me, not worth the expense for such limited use.

zac


EDIT: I reread your post and the cutout lip/flange is a part of the compression disc. It is that part that you want to tap on with a dowel, to seat it further into the steerer.


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks guys. I screwed the cap bolt into the hole and gently tapped on it with a hammer, everything in the photo slid down no problem to the proper depth. Took the fork out, cut it off with a carbide blade and it looks better than the factory cut that came on it. Reassembled and it looks great now. Thanks for the help and confidence building.


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