# Bearing preload for Easton EA90 SL wheels



## VictorV

(originally posted in the wheel/tire forum with no response)

Got into cycling a couple of years ago. Just bought these wheels from Performance Bike to upgrade my bike. 

Easton does not provide any information on how to adjust the bearing preload on the R4 hubs. On their site, all they show is an animated picture with the adjuster rotating back and forth.

Is the adjuster turned with the wheel in place (on the bike) and the skewer locked? How far should the adjuster be turned? How do I know when I have the proper adjustment? Thanks


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## giro di lento

I'd also like to know how you tell if you have the hubs adjusted properly as I've just got a pair of EA90 SLXs. I reduced my preload on my rear wheel (by a turn) from how they arrived and it seems to have made the wheel roll better - but it's just guesswork.

GdL


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## giro di lento

This is the only page I've found that is useful on the hub adjustment so far (the quick release hub section)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

I'm going to try it tomorrow and see how it works out - I know the Easton guys check this forum ... hopefully they can give some input too.

GdL


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## giro di lento

I used the following part of Sheldon Brown's advice to adjust my pre-load. Hopefully I'll get out on my bike today to see if it's made a difference.... if someone who knows how to do this thinks there is a better way, please let me know. Thanks

_"To check your bearing adjustment, put the wheel into the bike with the quick release just barely tight enough to keep the wheel from falling out. If you are working on the rear wheel, take it out and re-install it so that the chain is not engaging the sprockets. 

Try to wiggle the rim back-and-forth between the brake shoes; since the QR isn't tight, there should be a bit of play. If there is, hold the tire so that the valve is at the 3:00 or 9:00 position, then let go of it. On most wheels, the valve is the heaviest part; on wheels that have spoke reflectors, the reflector will be the heaviest part. Whatever is the heaviest part of the wheel, it should cause the wheel to turn and swing back-and-forth like a pendulum, before finally coming to a stop. 

Once you have seen how the wheel turns with the quick release loose, try tightening the QR, then check again. If your bearing adjustment is correct, the play will disappear, but the wheel will turn as freely as it did when it was too loose. For very fine tuning of this, you can slightly vary the adjustment of the quick-release skewer, as long as it is good and snug."_


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## CleavesF

You guys, the preload adjustment is right on the hub! You can do it with your hands!

Easton has all their maintenance info on their website.


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## giro di lento

Hi CleavesF

Thanks for the reply - and yes we know that you can adjust the preload without any tools - we just can't find any information to tell us how we know when the hubs are correctly adjusted ... I can't find any info on the Easton site to tell me that. So far it's trial and error - but yes being able to tweak it by hand (as shown on the Easton site) is good - just not so helpful that they don't say how to tell it's correctly adjusted. 

Thanks again.

GdL


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## CleavesF

Ohhh... okay here's a crash course:

This link is theory of bearings in general
http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/engineering/bearings/preload.shtml

For racing applications 
http://www.skf.com/files/005031.pdf

Sorry, read too fast. With me and my EA90SLX, I just make sure there's not noises or rattle and everything is smooth. Remember it does impact overall wear and tear. It works like a "headset". 

If you overdo it, premature wear, if you underdo it, rattle.


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## giro di lento

Thanks for your reply - I have EA90 SLXs too. I think I might have mine a little rattley now - I only have about half a turn on from the minimum setting.... I'll check them again on my next ride and maybe add a bit of pre-load back in. Looks like it's just trial and error.

Thanks again.
GdL


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## VictorV

*Thanks for the advice*

Adjusted the preload on both wheels. On the front wheel, when there was slight sideways movement, adjusted preload a touch tighter just so there was no movement. Spun front wheel and just before stopping, the wheel rotated back and forth about four times. Rear wheel was harder. Adjusted it so that after rotation stopped, it just started to rotate backward. Can't wait to ride. (Have at least one foot of snow outside, so it will be awhile).


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## James07

*...*

check out "Hub adjustment". I hope you'll find something helpful...:idea: 
otherwise if you are working on the rare wheels try to reinstall them or wiggle the rim too and fro between shoes. credit card...


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## Easton

CleavesF is right on, the adjuster works very much like a headset.
Contrary to Sheldon's article which deals mainly with cup and cone hubs we find it is best to adjust the hubs with the quick release fully tightened.

Similarly to adjusting a headset it is best to start with the adjuster loose so that you can feel some hub play by grabbing the rim and tire and wiggling from side to side.
Gradually turn the preload adjuster clockwise while wiggling the rim / tire to feel for hub play. When you can no longer feel any play in the hub the adjustment is complete. 

Also, we have a new version of the preload adjuster for R4 and R4SL hubs. The new adjuster uses a cone wrench for adjustment rather than fingertips. Please feel free to call the service center at 800-347-3901 x5177 for replacement preload adjusters.
If you have adjusters which seem to come loose frequently this new adjuster will resolve that issue.


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## zipptrek

VictorV said:


> (originally posted in the wheel/tire forum with no response)
> 
> Got into cycling a couple of years ago. Just bought these wheels from Performance Bike to upgrade my bike.
> 
> Easton does not provide any information on how to adjust the bearing preload on the R4 hubs. On their site, all they show is an animated picture with the adjuster rotating back and forth.
> 
> Is the adjuster turned with the wheel in place (on the bike) and the skewer locked? How far should the adjuster be turned? How do I know when I have the proper adjustment? Thanks


http://www.eastonbike.com/TECHNICAL/technical_FAQ-wheels.html#13

Look at # 13 in the FAQ.
I start with the adjustment loose and wiggle the wheel back and forth, then tighten up on the adjuster just until the play goes away.
They also have an upgrade for the preload adjustment. The new version you need a 19 mm
cone wrench to Adj.
The new adjuster comes with a rubber o ring in it and keeps it from loosening on it's own.
The old adjuster was too loose and would move while riding.
I would get home and the wheel would have play in it again.
Then I would have re-adjust it again.


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## IAmSpecialized

has anyone used the new preload adjusters with the o-ring? There TONS of complaints of the preload adjusters coming loose on every ride and having to be readjusted again. I'm wondering if the replacement preload adjusters have resolved the issue? 

Also, does anyone know if Easton is shipping out all new wheels built with the replacement adjuster already? Surely the replacement adjuster is now standard on R4 and R4SL hubs?


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## hawksup

Easton said:


> CleavesF is right on, the adjuster works very much like a headset.
> Contrary to Sheldon's article which deals mainly with cup and cone hubs we find it is best to adjust the hubs with the quick release fully tightened.
> 
> Similarly to adjusting a headset it is best to start with the adjuster loose so that you can feel some hub play by grabbing the rim and tire and wiggling from side to side.
> Gradually turn the preload adjuster clockwise while wiggling the rim / tire to feel for hub play. When you can no longer feel any play in the hub the adjustment is complete.
> 
> Also, we have a new version of the preload adjuster for R4 and R4SL hubs. The new adjuster uses a cone wrench for adjustment rather than fingertips. Please feel free to call the service center at 800-347-3901 x5177 for replacement preload adjusters.
> If you have adjusters which seem to come loose frequently this new adjuster will resolve that issue.


Can you please tell me more about this new preload adjuster? I have one of the first pairs of the EC90 SL (2009) Clinchers and find it extremely difficult to adjust with my fingers!
Is this replacemnet preload adjuster available world wide? South Africa?


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## sfzx

*R4 hubs, new preload adjuster*

Well guys I have a newer set of EA90 SLX wheels with the new preload adjuster using the 19mm cone wrench. It came with the wheels. I can say that it solves the problem of the adjuster loosening. Now if Easton could learn to build wheels with a quality spoke instead of the crap sapim spokes they now use it would be a great set of wheels. Only put 150 miles on this new set on super smooth road surface. I wiegh 170 I'm 58 years old and already have a broken spoke. The reason I say this is that I'm too old to be a wheel thrasher. I may ride over 20 mph avg speed but I'm not a racer either and don't hammer out of the saddle. I'm down on the gulf coast and no hills to hammer either. First let me say that I am a wheel builder and been doing it for over 30 years. I have wheels out there that have rolled over 20,000 miles with no spoke replacement and needed very little trueing if any. From what I see after removing the spoke that broke is that they are using spokes longer than necessary. The end of the spoke protruded out of the nipple on the back side by 1.5 -2.0 mm. That means on a 12 mm long nipple the threads of the spoke where as tite as they could go against the beginning of the threaded portion of the spoke. Thats where the spoke breaks. They should have have had a 3mm shorter length spoke. This broken spoke was on the rear wheel non drive side and all the spokes were like that on inspection. Now I know this could be related to the way easton builds wheels. They lace and tighten drive side first then bring dish in by using the radial spokes on non drive side to dish. That creates a very tite drive side spoke . So It may be necessary to use that extra length to engage the nipple threads.
So after all that there is still no excuse for the terrible service reliability delivered by this wheel. Its a very nice riding wheel and feels great but does'nt last from what I'm seeing on the net.


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## drewskey

I followed Easton's advice and called their support number. I talked to a very helpful lady who sent out a new axle and preload adjuster for my rear-wheel. It was quick and simple much to my surprise.

I'm highly impressed and will look more closely at Easton products in the future because of this good experience.


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## boleiro

Hey Drewsky, do you know if this preload bearing replacement is available to anyone? I ask since I am not the original owner of the ea90 aero wheelset though I would love to have this part as I'm not into the stock one. Seems that I can't get the rear bearing adjuster tight enough to take out the play in the wheel without it creating drag on the hub turning my bike into a fixie, i.e. the chain falls off if I stop pedaling. 

any info on Easton's CS policy would be helpful... calling them tomorrow morning.


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## drewskey

boleiro said:


> Hey Drewsky, do you know if this preload bearing replacement is available to anyone? I ask since I am not the original owner of the ea90 aero wheelset though I would love to have this part as I'm not into the stock one. Seems that I can't get the rear bearing adjuster tight enough to take out the play in the wheel without it creating drag on the hub turning my bike into a fixie, i.e. the chain falls off if I stop pedaling.
> 
> any info on Easton's CS policy would be helpful... calling them tomorrow morning.


The kind CS never asked. I wouldn't bring it up in the conversation. Make sure they send you both the front and the rear. 

The idea behind the bearing preload adjustment is that as the bearings wear, you tighten it. It sounds like you need to replace the bearings. It is super easy and cheap. Easton has a good manual page here. You can order these bearings from a lot of places online.


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## boleiro

Well, I called, and they are getting me the newer bearing preload adjusters, but I am being charged. However, its only $3 for the front and $5 for the rear and $3 for shipping. Although I have to call back since their system was down when I called. 

Here are the part numbers if anyone is in need:

Front #2014335
Rear #2014347


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## boleiro

One more drewsky, not finding much on replacement bearings for the R4 hubs outside of some generic ones on ebay. do you have a source? Also, any special tools required to install the new bearings. I've read about a "drift" needed to install correctly.

I'm a DIY'er, but I'm okay to take it to the lbs if a correct install requires tools I don't have. 

thanks.


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## drewskey

Here is the link to the instructions for bearing removal and installation: Easton Cycling Wheel Service

The front a rear drawings (.pdf) also list the bearings out as 6901 and 6902. Below are the size specs. 

Rear - 15 ID, 28 OD and 7mm width. (6902)
Front - 12 ID, 24 OD and 6 mm width. (6901)


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## boleiro

thanks, I saw all these industrial looking websites selling these bearings and I was a little sketch on whether they were intended for bikes or what? 

next, and maybe final question. Did you use the "drifts" in the easton maintenance pages to install your bearings? Is it even possible to do a correct install without them?


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## drewskey

Cartridge bearings are common among many different industries. 

I let my LBS handle the uninstall/install part. I would advise against installing without the proper tools and technique. It was worth more to me to have them do the swap than me buy the highly specialized parts.


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## boleiro

agreed, looking at the tools required and their price, I was already looking towards having my lbs do the work. 

thanks for your help Drewskey.


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## Tmonatr

I purchased some EA90 SL's earlier this year, although I was concerned with all the "breaking spokes" reviews. The LBS said those were due to a bad batch of Sapim spokes, but it has been addressed. (I hope!!) I find I generally have to do some adjustment to the bearing preload at the start of every ride, ad was not sure if this was normal or not. I understand it is to allow for bearing wear, but wasn't sure it the slight play was from wear, or the adjusters coming loose.


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## boleiro

Hey Tmonatr, I read all the spoke stories too. Checking with 2 of my LBS' that sell Eastons, they both said they have heard all the stories, but never have any wheelsets coming back to them. So, for whatever that is worth, but it set my reservations to rest.

You know you can call Easton customer service and get the newer bearing preload adjusters that require a 19mm wrench to tighten, but they stay tightened. They charged me, but it was less than $15 for the front and rear. 

I


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## sandyeggo

regarding the spokes...FWIW my LBS said it was only happening w/ the pre 2012versions and that they've been selling them all year and haven't had a single one brought back. i'm friends w/ the mgr, so i trust the guy...

just took my set out today for a spin and like them so far...guess only time/miles will tell how it really goes


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## marathon marke

Tmonatr said:


> I purchased some EA90 SL's earlier this year, although I was concerned with all the "breaking spokes" reviews. The LBS said those were due to a bad batch of Sapim spokes, but it has been addressed. (I hope!!) I find I generally have to do some adjustment to the bearing preload at the start of every ride, ad was not sure if this was normal or not. I understand it is to allow for bearing wear, but wasn't sure it the slight play was from wear, or the adjusters coming loose.


I'm not sure where the EA90 SE's fall in the line (I think it's a hybrid of the R4 hub and the SLX rim), but I've put almost 2,000 miles on them since I got them this past winter, and have never even had to put a spoke wrench to them yet.


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## Tmonatr

I have been happy with mine so far. They definitely help on the climbs, although I find myself somewhat hesitant to stand and really put the power to them, for fear of breaking a spoke. I have about 200 miles on them and they are still as true as they were on day one. I will definitely give Easton a call regarding the pre load adjusters. I had contacted them prior to buying these, and they said it is possible to change the bearings to the ceramic bearings found in the R4SL hubs, so I may look at that in the future. Thanks for the input and suggestions.


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## Tmonatr

boleiro said:


> Hey Tmonatr, I read all the spoke stories too. Checking with 2 of my LBS' that sell Eastons, they both said they have heard all the stories, but never have any wheelsets coming back to them. So, for whatever that is worth, but it set my reservations to rest.
> 
> You know you can call Easton customer service and get the newer bearing preload adjusters that require a 19mm wrench to tighten, but they stay tightened. They charged me, but it was less than $15 for the front and rear.
> 
> I


I called Easton today, and they are sending the parts to me at no charge. They just asked a few questions, took my info, and said they will arrive in about a week.


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## velomateo

After experiencing the same adjustment problems, I contacted Easton Customer Service. They sent me the new adjusters for free. The kit arrived in less than a week and included new axels, adjusters, and end caps (L & R) for the fornt and rear wheels + a rebuild kit for the cassette body.
The kit was easy to install, once I had a new 19mm cone wrench, and the wheels are back to "like new" again. It's not very often I am impressed with a customer service situation, but this time I was.


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