# Getting a tubeless tire off the rim?



## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

I have a set of Schwalbe Pro One tires on alloy tubeless rims. It's an extremely tight fit. What's the best way to get the tires off without destroying them or the rims?

I'm thinking of soaking the bead in soapy water, standing on the flat tire, and pulling on the rim. This has worked for reluctant mountain bike tires, but surely there's a better way?


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Unseat both beads, get them into the center of the rim then you can pull the tire around and get some slack.


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

cxwrench said:


> Unseat both beads, get them into the center of the rim then you can pull the tire around and get some slack.


I can't budge the beads. Can't even get a flathead between the bead and the rim without risking damage. Tire lever is out of the question.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

You may need to try one of these:

https://www.bikeexchange.com/a/bicy...MI4t3FuKyH2QIVg1uGCh01ogUCEAQYAiABEgLrmPD_BwE


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

Sealants are water based (at least what I have seen and used), so water or better a bit of soap in water. Wet the bead on one side, soak one part in water for a while, heck fill the tire with water if you want. That might work if other methods fail, given the majority of the sealant should be on the inside edge. Work at the bead under water for a bit, repeat a few times, and you should eventually get it loose.

Out of curiosity, how long has it been since the tire was seated? You might want to break that bead at least once a year, clean everything, and refill. If you don't want to deal with this problem again at least.

Which reminds me to add this to my MTB prep this spring!


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

I just replaced both my Schwalbe Pro Ones on alloy rims. No more difficult than regular tires. Actually easier than some.
Broke the bead all the way around both sides. Tire leaver off. I probably could've got them off by hand but didn't want sealant everywhere.




> I can't budge the beads. Can't even get a flathead between the bead and the rim without risking damage.


What sealant are you using? I just took my thumbs and pushed the bead off the rim. Wasn't hard at all.

FLATHEAD!?!? OMG NO.

Try soaking a portion of the tire/rim in a bucket of hot water. Might soften up the latex and make it easier to start.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

tlg said:


> FLATHEAD!?!? OMG NO.


This!!!


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

Lombard said:


> This!!!


Oh, believe me, it's the last thing I'd want to use. The sealant is TruckerCo, but that's not why the bead is so tight, nor is there a tape buildup. It took me over an hour to mount the tires initially. The bead isn't hard to break with thumbs, it's outright impossible. 

The bead is kevlar, no? Would that be affected by hot water? Is that Park tool suited to getting the tire off?


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

QuiQuaeQuod said:


> Sealants are water based (at least what I have seen and used), so water or better a bit of soap in water. Wet the bead on one side, soak one part in water for a while, heck fill the tire with water if you want. That might work if other methods fail, given the majority of the sealant should be on the inside edge. Work at the bead under water for a bit, repeat a few times, and you should eventually get it loose.
> 
> Out of curiosity, how long has it been since the tire was seated? You might want to break that bead at least once a year, clean everything, and refill. If you don't want to deal with this problem again at least.
> 
> Which reminds me to add this to my MTB prep this spring!


The tire's been on for four or five months. I'm removing now partly because I've discovered the TruckerCo sealant is garbage, but also because the the wheel is very unbalanced and I want to see what's gunking it up. I'll try soaking the bead.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

alexdi said:


> The bead is kevlar, no? Would that be affected by hot water?


How hot of water do you think?
You do know that kevlar is used in firemen suits and race car drivers because of it's fire resistance? 

Hot tap water 120° should soften it.



alexdi said:


> but also because the the wheel is very unbalanced and I want to see what's gunking it up.


Probably a dried up blob of latex.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

alexdi said:


> Oh, believe me, it's the last thing I'd want to use. The sealant is TruckerCo, but that's not why the bead is so tight, nor is there a tape buildup. It took me over an hour to mount the tires initially. The bead isn't hard to break with thumbs, it's outright impossible.
> 
> The bead is kevlar, no? Would that be affected by hot water? Is* that Park tool suited to getting the tire off*?


It should have the mechanical advantage to grab the tire and break the bead.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

That tool doesn't say it is for breaking the bead and it doesn't look like it would help.

Carrying a bucket of hot water on your bike ride may cause some other issues if you plan on fixing your tire on the road.

Same thing happened to me on a MBike ride, only it was on another rider's bike. We worked on loosening the bead for 10 minutes, then I left to go get help, cause I wasn't any. I think he's still out there!


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

duriel said:


> That tool doesn't say it is for breaking the bead and it doesn't look like it would help.
> 
> Carrying a bucket of hot water on your bike ride may cause some other issues if you plan on fixing your tire on the road.
> 
> Same thing happened to me on a MBike ride, only it was on another rider's bike. We worked on loosening the bead for 10 minutes, then I left to go get help, cause I wasn't any. I think he's still out there!


It's made to grab the tire and adjust it on the rim to seat the bead, it should work fine to break a tight bead. It works like a large jawed pliers.


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

tlg said:


> How hot of water do you think?
> You do know that kevlar is used in firemen suits and race car drivers because of it's fire resistance?
> 
> Hot tap water 120° should soften it.
> ...


I just assumed the Kevlar wouldn't stretch at all, not that it'd be damaged. Anyway, good suggestions. The combination of soapy water and a heat gun got the bead to the middle of the tire, then it took three Pedros levers to get the tire off the rim. 

I'm thrilled. Seriously. 

Both tires had dried latex blobs. Wet latex partially coats both tire interiors, but there was no residual liquid that'd have sealed a puncture. Testing balance on the stand without the tires but with the stems, both rims did well. Slightly heavy at the weld points. 

The next trick is getting the old sealant off the tires. (I want to give the new stuff, a new non-latex Slime variant, a fair shake.) With my MTB tires, this required waiting until it was dry and twisting on it in rubber-soled shoes as if I was rubbing out a cigarette. (Orange Seal comes off in one piece like a big balloon. I miss that.)

I've seen suggestions of silicone spray?


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

duriel said:


> Same thing happened to me on a MBike ride, only it was on another rider's bike. We worked on loosening the bead for 10 minutes, then I left to go get help, cause I wasn't any. I think he's still out there!


:blush2: With an MTB tire, there's usually enough sidewall that you can stand on it to pull up on the rim and break the bead. I have to do that with my plus tires.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

alexdi said:


> The next trick is getting the old sealant off the tires. (I want to give the new stuff, a new non-latex Slime variant, a fair shake.) With my MTB tires, this required waiting until it was dry and twisting on it in rubber-soled shoes as if I was rubbing out a cigarette. (*Orange Seal *comes off in one piece like a big balloon. I miss that.)


A few people here recommend Orange Seal. It still exists.


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

Lombard said:


> A few people here recommend Orange Seal. It still exists.


Indeed, and it's about the most expensive thing on the market. Hence my willingness to try alternatives. Slime STR costs about half as much per ounce in larger quantities and they claim it doesn't dry out as fast. TBD.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

alexdi said:


> Indeed, and it's about the most expensive thing on the market. Hence my willingness to try alternatives. Slime STR costs about half as much per ounce in larger quantities and they claim it doesn't dry out as fast. TBD.


You may want to read this thread before you try Slime:

Slime sealant don't seal a thing! Stay away!- Mtbr.com

Remember, in this life, you get what you pay for.


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

Lombard said:


> You may want to read this thread before you try Slime:
> 
> Slime sealant don't seal a thing! Stay away!- Mtbr.com
> 
> Remember, in this life, you get what you pay for.


Scroll down a little further. The thread is about Slime Pro. STR seems to work fine. Various demos on Youtube also.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

alexdi said:


> Indeed, and it's about the most expensive thing on the market. Hence my willingness to try alternatives. Slime STR costs about half as much per ounce in larger quantities and they claim it doesn't dry out as fast. TBD.


Orange seal is like $20 for enough to do 6-8 road tires. 

Yeah, ridiculously expensive compared to everything else in the road bike world. 

Especially, overpriced in view of the fact that it actually works without forming stanimals.


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## alexdi (Jul 1, 2016)

crit_boy said:


> Especially, overpriced in view of the fact that it actually works without forming stanimals.


It's good stuff, and your point about cost is well-taken. However, it does dry out. I'm willing to try something that claims to last longer.


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## OldChipper (May 15, 2011)

Yep, Orange Seal the the stuff you want. 

As far as getting tubelss tires off... fire always works. Or a really large sledge hammer, tin snips, and if all else fails a welding torch; then discard the rim and re-build with a proper, tubed rim. Like the recipe for carp... gut, bone and fillet fish, bake on a pine board at 300 degrees for an hour. Discard fish and eat the board. 

I don't know why people keep insisting on applying MTB tech to non-MTB applications. SMDH.


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