# Shimano Dual Control Levers -Install & Set Up?



## Onepivot (Aug 1, 2006)

I need some input on how tough I might find it to install & set up Shimano dual control levers/shifters. To begin with, I'm a new roadie but have been mountain biking for years and have built up many mtb's. I've got a lot of set up & installation experience in that realm.

I just bought a used '05 Trek 1500 that's in great shape, but the previous owner has it set up with flat bars & mountain bike brake levers & shifters. I plan on setting it up with a more typical road cockpit by installing drops & Shimano dual control levers (probably 105 or Ultegra level) My main concern is my complete lack of experience with this equipment.

So, is the level of difficulty higher with this stuff when compared to mtb levers & shifters? Aside from being new to me, will I run into anything that might make me wish I'd have taken it to the lbs?


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## bikeboy389 (May 4, 2004)

Onepivot said:


> I need some input on how tough I might find it to install & set up Shimano dual control levers/shifters. To begin with, I'm a new roadie but have been mountain biking for years and have built up many mtb's. I've got a lot of set up & installation experience in that realm.
> 
> I just bought a used '05 Trek 1500 that's in great shape, but the previous owner has it set up with flat bars & mountain bike brake levers & shifters. I plan on setting it up with a more typical road cockpit by installing drops & Shimano dual control levers (probably 105 or Ultegra level) My main concern is my complete lack of experience with this equipment.
> 
> So, is the level of difficulty higher with this stuff when compared to mtb levers & shifters? Aside from being new to me, will I run into anything that might make me wish I'd have taken it to the lbs?


The actual installation isn't tough at all. And if you buy your parts new they'll come with instructions that'll get you through.

The tough part in the whole operation is making sure all your running gear is compatible. Since your current frame is an 05, you're probably not at risk, but you should probably at least make sure there's not some incompatibility between a 9 speed shifter and 10 speed derailleur and vice versa, depending on what you're trying to do.

But if your parts are all going to work together, there's nothing harder about the road stuff than the MTB stuff, except that hairspray won't help you with the grips. You'll have to learn to tape handlebars--which is not rocket science.


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## Onepivot (Aug 1, 2006)

Thanks. I have a 9 speed drive train & I'll be sure that everything plays nice together. My gut instinct tells me that the road stuff is just different and not necessarily harder to work with than mtb gear but I need some input from someone who knows for certain. As for the bar tape, haven't done that since 1974 but I think it'll come back to me.


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## Tugboat (Jul 17, 2006)

You'll find all the Shimano technical docs (9 and 10 speed) to help with installation here... http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp

Bar tapes a pretty simple exercise but Park Tool have a helpful little tutorial here... http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71


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## Mark McM (Jun 18, 2005)

*Road components easier than MTB*



Onepivot said:


> So, is the level of difficulty higher with this stuff when compared to mtb levers & shifters? Aside from being new to me, will I run into anything that might make me wish I'd have taken it to the lbs?


If anything, a road bike might actually be easier set up and adjust than an MTB. Front derailleur adjustment for a double chainring is easier than for a triple, and side pivot brakes are simpler to install/set up than just any type of MTB brake (cantilever, direct-pull, or disc). And, of course, there's no shocks or swing-arms to deal with.


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## jhamlin38 (Oct 29, 2005)

I use ultegra 9 and it ain't hard at all. Make sure you get shimano type cables. Just don't piss away 50 bucks on Dura-ace cables.
The hardest part is taping the bars! If you use specialized wrap, there's no tacky stuff on the back, so unwrapping and starting over is pretty easy.
To tape:
start at the end of the bars, on the right side, start the tape going clockwise. on the left side, start the tape going counterclockwise.
make sure you leave about a half widths worth hanging over, so bar-end caps don't fall out.
when adjusting rear derailleur, leave about one full turn of the barrel adjuster in case your cable's too tight. It's pretty easy to get these dialed in. 
If done correctly, this drivetrain, (ultegra9 with ultegra cassette, derailleurs and chain) will be dead effing silent. If you cant get it perfectly dialed in. check the chain-length. 
good luck


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