# Trouble reaching shifters?



## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

Hi there, 

New to this whole road bike thing, but I'm determined to get back into riding. Have an old Specialized Hard Rock that I just rescued from the cobwebs and have been riding it the past couple weeks, so I thought I would give a road bike a try. 

I went to a LBS today, second time this week at this store. They have an '06 Trek 1000 (not WSD) for a pretty good deal, as far as I can tell. My main issue with it was that my fingers weren't long enough to shift or brake at what seemed like a comfortable length (or maybe that's just how road bikes are?). 

Then I tried the Specialized Dolce. A little better, but still not great. I did like that this bike had the brakes on the flat part of the handlebars which were easier to grip, but that doesn't help much with the shifting.

I don't feel like the clerk was all that helpful. I may try another LBS, but they don't have the deal on the '06 Trek. 

Since this is just something that I'm trying out, I'd like to keep the budget under $1k, and as low as possible, to tell you the truth. 

After this experience, I'm thinking a hybrid might be better? I just hate to go that route though, and I don't know why. 

BTW - I'm 5'2" and overweight (so I'm hoping this will help get some exercise into my routine - I already eat 90% whole foods/organic, so I know I need more exercise).

Thanks!


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

Shimano makes shifters for smaller hands. The LBS should be able to give you the info on that. 

I have smaller hands and use Campy components.


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks, il sogno!

I knew there must be some fix for it, but the LBS employee didn't seem that interested in helping me with it. Not sure why, but I probably would have bought the bike if he had helped more.


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## rcharrette (Mar 27, 2007)

*Shim's*

Shimano also provides shim's for ALL of their shifters to lessen the reach. I believe the shims come in 2 different sizes and they should provide them free of charge. When you order shifters alone they are in the box. They may have some hanging around?


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

rcharrette said:


> Shimano also provides shim's for ALL of their shifters to lessen the reach. I believe the shims come in 2 different sizes and they should provide them free of charge. When you order shifters alone they are in the box. They may have some hanging around?


Thanks for that rcharrette. ccb, if you go back to that bike shop find another employee or the shop manager or owner and explain to them what you need. They'll be able to take care of you. 

Have fun with the new bike. :thumbsup:


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. It's definitely very helpful to know that the shims should be provided for no charge if I do purchase a bike from this shop. I felt a little big for the bike I was on so I'm definitely going to get fitted at another shop just to see what size bike they put me on. 

Thanks again!


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ccbloom said:


> Thanks for the replies. It's definitely very helpful to know that the shims should be provided for no charge if I do purchase a bike from this shop. I felt a little big for the bike I was on so I'm definitely going to get fitted at another shop just to see what size bike they put me on.
> 
> Thanks again!


I had Shimano 105's on my TREK 2100 last year. I had ergo bars, 56 cm frame etc... Anyway, I have very meaty palms, wear gloves always and have medium sized potato picking length fingers. When in the drops I can not reach the brake levers. I showed the cycle shop where I purchased the bike the issue. The 105's and below models [Tiagra] brake levers do not accept the shims to bring in the lever position closer. They said it's the Ultegra level shifter and above Dura Ace. I don't know if it was true or not. I decided to work around the issue for the 4,000 miles of riding last year but ...I didn't run back to them this year when I bought my Cannodale SuperSix with Dura Ace and Ultegra components ...and those capable brake lever shims. 

So before you accuse them of ill fit, ask if these shims are compatible with the lower lines of Shimano.:thumbsup:


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## messyparrot (Sep 17, 2007)

SRAM shifters are completely adjustable, perhaps a bike there has this type of shifter on it.

I have little hands and you can bring them in real close if you need to.

Hope you find a shop that is helpful to you.


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

EverydayRide said:


> The 105's and below models [Tiagra] brake levers do not accept the shims to bring in the lever position closer. They said it's the Ultegra level shifter and above Dura Ace. I don't know if it was true or not. I decided to work around the issue for the 4,000 miles of riding last year but ...I didn't run back to them this year when I bought my Cannodale SuperSix with Dura Ace and Ultegra components ...and those capable brake lever shims.
> 
> So before you accuse them of ill fit, ask if these shims are compatible with the lower lines of Shimano.:thumbsup:


Thanks, I'm going to look into it a bit more. I don't know much about components and fitting, so I'm learning new things every day. I can't imagine, though, that only those buying higher quality components have this issue...or maybe they want the only fix to be on the higher quality so that's what we buy?


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ccbloom said:


> Thanks, I'm going to look into it a bit more.


By the time you're done, you'll be more educated in fitment then most local bike shops.


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

I'm going to another shop today to give them a try. Like I said, I'm very new to road bikes, but after looking online at photos of others riding them, I KNOW my fingers didn't have the proper reach. As much as it seems like a little thing to the one LBS that didn't seem interested in fitting me, it's a big thing to me because, well, if I can't stop (especially when I'm a little wobbly with the new ride), that's a big deal!  There's one guy at the other LBS that I wish was available, but I keep getting someone else willing to "help" me.


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## ping771 (Apr 10, 2006)

ccbloom said:


> I'm going to another shop today to give them a try. Like I said, I'm very new to road bikes, but after looking online at photos of others riding them, I KNOW my fingers didn't have the proper reach. As much as it seems like a little thing to the one LBS that didn't seem interested in fitting me, it's a big thing to me because, well, if I can't stop (especially when I'm a little wobbly with the new ride), that's a big deal!  There's one guy at the other LBS that I wish was available, but I keep getting someone else willing to "help" me.


My gf is your height and tried out a few bikes herself (We're still looking). When you say reach, do you mean the bike is too long for you to reach the brake/shifters, or do you mean that you can comfortably reach the brakes/shfiters, but the levers are too far away from your fingers when your hands are on the hoods? You say that your fingers don't have the proper reach, but if the bike and stem are too long, that just makes it worse.

When you're starting out, the fitter or bike shop personnel should not be fitting you with a road cyclist's "ideal fit." What I mean by "ideal fit" is the set up to ride most efficiently. To ride most efficiently, for example, the saddle should not be set where you can put both feet on the ground. Rather, the store personnel should set you up to make you feel the most comfortable, and if it means pushing the seatpost all the way down til you can put both feet on the ground, raise the stem really high and put in a really short stem to reduce the reach so you can easily reach the brakes and shift without trouble, they should do it. Even though this is not the most efficient set up (your legs will be a bit bunched up pedalling because the seat height is too short), you will feel much more in control of the bike when you're lower to the ground, and won't have to reach so much for the brakes. As you feel more at ease on your bike, you can then raise your seat, and lengthen your reach.


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ping771 said:


> When you say reach, do you mean the bike is too long for you to reach the brake/shifters, or do you mean that you can comfortably reach the brakes/shfiters, but the levers are too far away from your fingers when your hands are on the hoods?



Ultegra Levers Ergo Bars


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

EverydayRide said:


> Ultegra Levers Ergo Bars



Yes, this is exactly what I mean for reach of my fingers. If you look at your finger tips, only about 1/2 way to the first knuckle line from the top of each finger reaches the lever when I'm down low on the bars, with my thumb stretched as far as possible. To me, it seems like the side of the lever should comfortably fit into that first knuckle line, at least, right? Or am I just not used to proper fit?

Honestly, I haven't had any trouble reaching the brake/shifters on the 4 or 5 that I've tested. Actually, quite the opposite. Rather than my trunk/arms feeling stretched too far, I feel crunched. I don't think I need a women-specific frame, since unfortunately, I don't fall into that category of having longer legs than torso.


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## ping771 (Apr 10, 2006)

ccbloom said:


> Yes, this is exactly what I mean for reach of my fingers. If you look at your finger tips, only about 1/2 way to the first knuckle line from the top of each finger reaches the lever when I'm down low on the bars, with my thumb stretched as far as possible. To me, it seems like the side of the lever should comfortably fit into that first knuckle line, at least, right? Or am I just not used to proper fit?
> 
> Honestly, I haven't had any trouble reaching the brake/shifters on the 4 or 5 that I've tested. Actually, quite the opposite. Rather than my trunk/arms feeling stretched too far, I feel crunched. I don't think I need a women-specific frame, since unfortunately, I don't fall into that category of having longer legs than torso.


By what you are saying, it appears you have trouble shifting when your hands are in the deep part of the handlebar drops (the curved area of the handlbar which is behind the brake lever and small shfiter lever (on Shimano and SRAM)). In that case, you can do a couple things. Shimano makes smaller levers which can be adjusted to move closer to the handlebar. But actually you can acheive the same thing by having the bike shop glue a piece of plastic to the top inside portion of the lever, so when you release the lever, the lever does not go out away from you all the way. 

But I'm surprised that you are shifting in the drops, b/c that is usually what racers and really experienced riders do, since they're riding in the drops most of the time, which is not a comfortable position to be for a long time Most people, including me, shift when with hands on the hoods, and this is where you lose me. If you shift from the hoods, your finger length isn't much of an issue. The small lever behind brake lever is right by your index finger, and you only need a cm of index finger to trigger it. To shift the larger lever (the brake lever), you use your four fingers, and sweep the lever inward (right lever sweeps left, left lever sweeps right). The large lever is an issue with people with smaller hands because a longer lever requires more leverage to shift, and smaller fingers make it a bit more difficult. SRAM and Campagnolo shifters have short brake shifter levers, while Shimano's are longer. Again bringing in the levers will help.


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

ping771 said:


> But I'm surprised that you are shifting in the drops, b/c that is usually what racers and really experienced riders do, since they're riding in the drops most of the time, which is not a comfortable position to be for a long time Most people, including me, shift when with hands on the hoods, and this is where you lose me. If you shift from the hoods, your finger length isn't much of an issue. The small lever behind brake lever is right by your index finger, and you only need a cm of index finger to trigger it. To shift the larger lever (the brake lever), you use your four fingers, and sweep the lever inward (right lever sweeps left, left lever sweeps right). The large lever is an issue with people with smaller hands because a longer lever requires more leverage to shift, and smaller fingers make it a bit more difficult. SRAM and Campagnolo shifters have short brake shifter levers, while Shimano's are longer. Again bringing in the levers will help.



Even when shifting from the hoods, I was having a bit of difficulty. I believe on the Sora the whole lever needs to be moved sideways to shift, and as you say, longer lever requires more leverage to shift. My fingers aren't long enough to just shift without a good deal of effort. I'm not expecting to be able to do it totally effortlessly, but I don't think it should require as much effort as I need. Either way, pro-racing or a newbie, I should still be able to shift in the drops if fitted properly...or at least I would assume so. 

I think I just need to be perfectly clear with the LBS the issue I'm having when I go for the final fitting.


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ccbloom said:


> Even when shifting from the hoods, I was having a bit of difficulty.


The photo I provided is actually my own hand. It's pretty difficult to exactly explain to anyone your dilemma. I thought that photo would assist you but it seems I'll have to explain to the local readers in this thread the over the "top of hood" dilemma you're experiencing.

Click any of the below thumb nail to enlarge


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## athletic91 (May 28, 2009)

i tend to use my middle finger to shift while on the hoods


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks everyone! 

I purchased my first road bike yesterday. I got (what I think) is a pretty good deal on a new/old stock Trek 1000 - $500. It does have Sora/Tiagra, but for the price, it's a good entry bike for me, and in a year, if things are still going well, I'll either upgrade or spend the money on a newer/better bike. 

I would have preferred to buy from a different LBS because I'm not a fan of the workers at this one - I went in 3x and had 3 different employees and every time I left with a bad taste in my mouth (for example, when I was asking about the shims on the shifters yesterday, this employee mumbled under his breath "you're killing me" <-- some service, huh?). 

Anyways, thanks for all your help. I'm happy with my bike, and now I'm excited to ride it!


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ccbloom said:


> Thanks everyone!
> 
> I purchased my first road bike yesterday.


Join a cycling club locally!

According the C.I.A. [cyclist in action] you saved yourself over $350 on that deal.:thumbsup: On the forums here there are great reviews overall on this model.

What are you going to do for shoes? Are you eventually going with a system pedal/shoe?


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## ccbloom (Aug 20, 2009)

EverydayRide said:


> Join a cycling club locally!
> 
> According the C.I.A. [cyclist in action] you saved yourself over $350 on that deal.:thumbsup: On the forums here there are great reviews overall on this model.
> 
> What are you going to do for shoes? Are you eventually going with a system pedal/shoe?



Thanks, I'm already planning on joining a local cycling club. I need to get a few solo rides under my belt. There's a 25 mile ride (think it's called a 1/2 century?) coming up in the area in the middle of October <-- it this a feasible goal? Or should I just wait a bit?

I started looking at shoes/pedals last night. I was thinking of the Crankbrothers Candy pedals or something like that just to get started since they're fairly inexpensive. Either those or Shimano M-520 (think that was the number). I'm going to try on shoes at the LBS (maybe this afternoon) since they had a ton on clearance there.


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

ccbloom said:


> Thanks, I'm already planning on joining a local cycling club. I need to get a few solo rides under my belt. There's a 25 mile ride (think it's called a 1/2 century?) coming up in the area in the middle of October <-- it this a feasible goal? Or should I just wait a bit?


My suggestion is *"time"* in the saddle. It's the same philosophy as beginner runners. You should set your mind to ride "X" amount of time not miles. If you can handle one hour on the bike to begin with it's a super plus.:thumbsup: Each time you ride concentrate on position. A good ride at a good cadence [pedal stroke] and good position [straight lower back and arms forward] in fairly good breathing [60-70% maximum] means you'll improve each ride. You have to find a comfortable position with a correct seat, stem and saddle adjustment. Add shoes and cleats ...it's even more to adjust. That's why you'd join a club. Very experienced cyclists can offer some good advise making the riding more appreciative. 



ccbloom said:


> I started looking at shoes/pedals last night. I was thinking of the Crankbrothers Candy pedals or something like that just to get started since they're fairly inexpensive. Either those or Shimano M-520 (think that was the number). I'm going to try on shoes at the LBS (maybe this afternoon) since they had a ton on clearance there.


Bring your own socks, low ankle socks and not poofy cotton poofy. Buy a cycling sock. I was sold on the LOOK KEO myself. Used the SPD's for years, all have an advantage over the other in some respects. Price is a deciding factor. It always is. It's sooo hard to earn money, why is it so easy to spend? 

Good Luck, and Enjoy.

Long time investment.


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## Morison (Oct 31, 2005)

*Just came across this thread...*

and it didn't seem that this was addressed. Most Trek 1000s of late have had the Sora lever shown in the pic I've attached. If yours does, there should be a screw found in the illustrated position which will allow you to adjust the reach to the brake lever. The Sora levers have a thumb actuated release lever (down shift in the front, up shift in the rear) which means that your hand size will be less of an issue there.

"As well as making life safer and less tiring, getting your lever reach correct will boost your conﬁdence by increasing your braking control. Some Shimano STI levers can be moved closer to the bar by either screwing in the small adjustment screw as shown (Sora models) or inserting a set of spacer shims (current Tiagra, ST-R600, ST-R700). 

You'll need to release a bit of cable at the brake anchor bolt to bring brake adjustment back to normal, then retighten ﬁrmly; but check that the cable hasn't suffered from cut strands at the old pinch point, and replace if in doubt. 

If your levers have no adjustment, releasing a little cable will help you achieve an easier braking action, especially if you have smaller hands."


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## GerryR (Sep 3, 2008)

My wife's Felt F85 has Shimano 105 brake/shift levers and she has complained about the reach when shifting to the big ring. I was going to my LBS today anyway and after reading this I asked my mechanic buddy there about shims and he said the 2010 bikes they are getting in are all coming with the shims. He went in the back and got two of them for me. I also saw a Specialized bike with 105 levers and shims. I don't know if 105 levers are narrower than Ultegra or DA levers or if Shimano has changed the 105 levers, but the shims I got are wider than the levers on my wife's bike. I may go back tomorrow and check it out.


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

GerryR said:


> I don't know if 105 levers are narrower than Ultegra or DA levers or if Shimano has changed the 105 levers, but the shims I got are wider than the levers on my wife's bike. I may go back tomorrow and check it out.


I was told and shown that the 105's can not use the shims. My 105 system was a 2006-2007 Trek ZR 9000 2100. Maybe the newer versions of the 105's have compatibility with Ultegra and Dura Ace?


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## GerryR (Sep 3, 2008)

EverydayRide said:


> I was told and shown that the 105's can not use the shims. My 105 system was a 2006-2007 Trek ZR 9000 2100. Maybe the newer versions of the 105's have compatibility with Ultegra and Dura Ace?


The shop had a Specialized bike with 105 levers fitted with shims, so something has definitely changed.


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## GerryR (Sep 3, 2008)

I tried to use the Shimano shims on my wife's bike but they don't fit properly, wider than the 105 shifters. I went back to the shop and showed them to my friend who works there. We check current 105 and Ultegra shifters and the shims Shimano is sending out are wider than either shifter. The ones I saw yesterday on the Specialized bike with 105 shifters are made by/for Specialized and are the same width as the 105 and Ultegra shifters. My friend is ordering several sets for the shop as well as a set for me.


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

GerryR said:


> I tried to use the Shimano shims on my wife's bike but they don't fit properly, wider than the 105 shifters. I went back to the shop and showed them to my friend who works there. We check current 105 and Ultegra shifters and the shims Shimano is sending out are wider than either shifter. The ones I saw yesterday on the Specialized bike with 105 shifters are made by/for Specialized and are the same width as the 105 and Ultegra shifters. My friend is ordering several sets for the shop as well as a set for me.


This is great news. If you P.M. me I can send you money or your shop money to acquire a set for my bike... 

Last year I double wrapped my bar tape [cork stuff] and I also wear gloves. That added padding gave further distance from lever reach. Image riding 4,300 miles last season having issues to cover brakes.


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## GerryR (Sep 3, 2008)

EverydayRide said:


> This is great news. If you P.M. me I can send you money or your shop money to acquire a set for my bike...


Any Specialized dealer should be able to get them. At this point I don't even know the cost, but if it keeps my wife riding her road bike, it doesn't matter much.


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## cyclequip (Oct 20, 2004)

Indeed, Specialized make a range of Slim Shims for this purpose that fit most Shimano levers. Any reputable Specialized dealer can source these for you.


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## cedberg (Jan 18, 2010)

I just bought a Carbon Synapse Feminine 5, the smallest one made at a whopping 44cm. after not riding anything but a stationary bike for years.
I am very petite and the stretch for my hands to reach the brake levers/shifters was too far so the bike shop placed a shim for me to lessen the stretch.
Now that I have used the bike a bit (and really love it alot), I find that I avoid long stretches of downhill because I get terrible cramps in my thumb pads when I have to stretch my hands and apply the brakes. I use gel-padded gloves and work out the cramps on the straightaways.
Another local bike shop thinks I might need to do major reconstruction on the bike like replace the shifters/derailleurs to something more adjustable. They'd be happy to do it.
(Ka-ching $$$)


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## EverydayRide (Sep 12, 2008)

cedberg said:


> Another local bike shop thinks I might need to do major reconstruction on the bike like replace the shifters/derailleurs to something more adjustable. They'd be happy to do it.
> (Ka-ching $$$)


This is a '08 model or a '09? Before jumping into component switches, find someone in your area who can do a pro FIT for $75 - $150. Many will have stems to swap out and various components sitting around from previous fits in exchange. Swapping out a stem can save you $40 if buying it yourself on your own. Look into a FIT, but w/ a reliable pro fitter not just a cycle shop that eyeballs your position. If you can't locate one, look into local clubs in your area and either e-mail or post with your needs on a sizing/positioning. I would imagine your issue is over a combination of issues, one being stem length. You could post a pic of your bike, this would help too.

By the way, its a great model.


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## cedberg (Jan 18, 2010)

It's a '10 since we couldn't find a '09. Going to the shop today to see what my options are. There were a few changes made to the bike when I had my initial fitting to make my reach more comfy. I will probably make an appt. with the fitter soon to have all the specs worked out.
Thanks!


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