# Giant OCR3: what would you upgrade?



## kubi (Aug 23, 2007)

I bought a Giant OCR3 a couple of years ago and am wondering about upgrades. Here's what it's got right now (all stock except for the pedals):


```
fork	formulaOne Composite w/aluminum steerer
handlebar	M: 6061 Alloy Anatomic Bend 
stem	3D Forged Aluminium, 31.8mm
seatpost	formulaOne Composite, 27.2x350mm
pedals	Shimano PD M505, clipless
shifters	Shimano Soras
front derailleur	Shimano Sora
rear derailleur	Shimano Sora
brakes	???
cassette	???
cranks	TruVativ Touro
bb	???
rims	Alexrims DA22
hubs	???
spokes	???
tires	Kenda Kontender, 700x26
```
The question marks indicate unbranded parts, so I'm not really sure what they are.

I'm planning on upgrading components as I see the need to. The first to go will be the shifters, upgrading to the Tiagras most likely, since I can't reach the thumb clicker from the drops. All the drivetrain components look very cheap, but they shift just fine so I'm probably going to hold off on upgrading those. Is there any portion of this bike you think would benefit greatly from an upgrade?


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## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

I wouldn't bother. I'd see the OCR3 whole (entry level bikes hold decent resale value) and buy a new bike if you really feel like you want something more.

At a minimum, I would not replace a part before it is worn out, since you are invariably throwing away money. And you'll be itching for a new steed long before that Sora drivetrain gives up the ghost.


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## Cycler64 (Jul 7, 2006)

JayTee said:


> I wouldn't bother. I'd see the OCR3 whole (entry level bikes hold decent resale value) and buy a new bike if you really feel like you want something more.
> 
> At a minimum, I would not replace a part before it is worn out, since you are invariably throwing away money. And you'll be itching for a new steed long before that Sora drivetrain gives up the ghost.


Yep. If I were you I'd wait and save enough money to upgrade the whole bike to something with at least Shimano 105, if not Ultegra or Dura-Ace. A carbon frame would be cool too. 'Cause now, you have a cheap bike. Even if you upgrade it to Tiagra, it'll still be a cheap bike. 

Just my $.02


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## Mr_Snips2 (Jun 26, 2006)

Personally i'd get a cannondale CAAD 8 with full D/A...oh wait...hahahaha, i did. But really, its worth it to get a new bike, the OCR's are fairly loose and really arent comfortable. Look into the CAAD line of cannondales if you dont want to break the bank. Good luck.


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## zipp2001 (Feb 24, 2007)

Agree with fellow posters, but if your budget is limited then wheels should be the first thing you upgrade. You can always use the new wheels on a new bike you buy in the future.


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## kubi (Aug 23, 2007)

Thanks for all the advice. Now for an utterly noobie question: what's the difference between my frame and a nicer frame? I've envisioned slowly upgrading the components over a few years, but will I eventually be left with a frame I'm unhappy with? I ride for travel and exercise, so I don't ever see myself getting a super-light frame. I figured that the changing out the components would make much more of a difference in the ride than switching out the frame would. Will a more expensive aluminum frame be significantly lighter?


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## rogerstg (Aug 1, 2007)

kubi said:


> Thanks for all the advice. Now for an utterly noobie question: what's the difference between my frame and a nicer frame?


Nothing you'd notice until your riding 3000 miles a year or trying to compete with your current bike. Lots of posters are exceptional athletes and what makes a difference to their performance you would not notice until you are at their level. Enjoy your bike until you feel it is not performing well or too many things break.

Regarding your bike upgrade, you'd be better off looking for a better ride used, then selling your bike. The difference will probably be less that a pair a sti shifters and a crankset.


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## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

Why do you need to change ANYTHING?


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

kubi said:


> Thanks for all the advice. Now for an utterly noobie question: what's the difference between my frame and a nicer frame? I've envisioned slowly upgrading the components over a few years, but will I eventually be left with a frame I'm unhappy with? I ride for travel and exercise, so I don't ever see myself getting a super-light frame. I figured that the changing out the components would make much more of a difference in the ride than switching out the frame would. Will a more expensive aluminum frame be significantly lighter?


The performance parts of a bicycle (hence the ones worth upgrading) in order of importance.

#1) The Motor (that would be you).
#2) Total weight (that is mostly you (can you lose any weight?)).
#3) Rider comfort (the more comfortable you are the longer you can ride comfortably)(so we are talking seat, pedals, handlebar/brake levers and your position on the bicycle).
#4) Aerodynamics (that is mostly the way you sit on the bike).
#5) Wheels-wheels are all about performance and your stock wheels are fine but nothing special.
#6) Frame. Pretty far down the list but there isn't all that much performance enhancing in a frame once you have one of resonable quality (and you do) with resonable fit.
#7) Everything else. I would put this lower on the list but there is nothing else on the list.


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## jhamlin38 (Oct 29, 2005)

I'd probably respectfully disagree with MB1, on one hand, but won't argue it.
I'm assuming that 1 and 2 are ignored. 
I think aerodynamics at anything under 20 mph is pretty meaningless for a recreational/fitness rider. 
I think wheels are very underated. Nice new wheels, like neuvation r28 are awesome, and usually better than most stock wheels on bikes in the 1200-1500 MSRP range. Sure there will be exceptions, but in general.... Wheels.
I'd say get a decent used bike, and consider the wheels as a primary point to upgrade.
I'm not a fan of cannondale, as they beat the tar out of you after a while.
enjoy...


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## sibreen (Jul 29, 2007)

hey,
im interested in these responses as i think im in the same boat as kubi - still first 6 months of riding, but riding more and more each week. im addicted.. 
for me at least, wanting new things for my bike is not so much about necessity as desire. theres something incredibly compelling about my bicycle and, perhaps more to the point, buying things to make it (even a little) better.
and, while i understand the economy of buying a better used bike than upgrading the current one, and however rubbish i know my stock (except tyres ) ocr3 to be, i love it dearly and wouldnt dream of consigning it to the darker, lesser frequented recesses of the world.
as an aside, does anyone have a brooks 17n saddle? i want to spend money (see above for reasons) but im worried from what ive heard that a brooks will kill my 'gofaster' instinct, and make me a more casual rider.. whats the consensus - too comfortable and fat and wide and heavy..?


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## Oldteen (Sep 7, 2005)

kubi said:


> Thanks for all the advice. Now for an utterly noobie question: what's the difference between my frame and a nicer frame? I've envisioned slowly upgrading the components over a few years, but will I eventually be left with a frame I'm unhappy with? I ride for travel and exercise, so I don't ever see myself getting a super-light frame. I figured that the changing out the components would make much more of a difference in the ride than switching out the frame would. Will a more expensive aluminum frame be significantly lighter?


'Upgradeitis' can be an expensive and too-often pointless affliction.

My wife has an OCR3 & it is a fine bike as is. My only "must-have" upgrade advice is new brake pads (around $10 per set), since the stock pads are a bit slick. I like Kool Stop pads, but Shimano pads work well too. The stock Alex wheelset is OK, and getting a nicer wheelset is not a total waste. Having a back-up wheelset can be handy, and you can keep your better wheels when/if you get a new bike.

Nicer frame???? IMHO the OCR has a very decent aluminum frame which should give years of solid service. "Better" frames are usually lighter, but only by a few ounces (and a lighter wallet!). Important to a racer, but not to the recreational biker. There are differences in ride & handling with different frames (assuming proper fit), but to be honest these are fairly subtle to most newer riders. If you need a new frame to fit you better, then you may well need a new bike. 

IMHO- The OCR is a solid bike & spending more $$ on it will not objectively improve your ride. It would be more cost-effective to sell your OCR and buy a "better" bike than to put $$$ into upgrading multiple parts (shifters, derailleurs, crankset, etc.). 

As JayTee said, why do you need to change anything? Enjoy your bike & only replace parts as they wear out.


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## 99trek5200 (Jan 26, 2007)

I agree with the concensus to not change anything and if you do decide to make a change go for wheels. For a used bike I would go for some used wheels. I have gotten good deals on wheels on both Craig's List and EBay for less than 1/2 the cost new.

As far as the concept of a "new" used bike is concerned, take a look at the specs of my bike under my profile. I got my entire bike (near mint) for what it would cost to buy the wheels, handlebars and seat new! Granted I believe I got a smoking deal, but deals are out there to be had.


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## BLACKSHEEP54 (May 7, 2007)

Sell it and buy something better. If you just want to upgrade something go for a good set of wheels and be done.


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## kubi (Aug 23, 2007)

Thanks for all the helpful advice. After thinking about it and taking everyone's opinions into account, I'm going to ignore almost everyone's advice and go the upgrade path. When you get right down to it, I enjoy fiddling around with my bike. A significant percentage of the pleasure I get from having a bike is the tuneups, repairs, etc.


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## Cory (Jan 29, 2004)

*If you have to ask, don't upgrade anything yet.*

Hang onto the money until you figure out what you don't like about the bike. Then you'll know what you need AND you'll have the bucks for it. Otherwise you're just spending money to be spending money.
This mature view is brought to you courtesy of the thousands of dollars I've spent on crap that didn't make any difference at all.


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## rochrunner (Jul 11, 2006)

kubi said:


> Thanks for all the helpful advice. After thinking about it and taking everyone's opinions into account, I'm going to ignore almost everyone's advice and go the upgrade path. When you get right down to it, I enjoy fiddling around with my bike. A significant percentage of the pleasure I get from having a bike is the tuneups, repairs, etc.


I'm with you, kubi. I'd rather spend the money and do the work myself than buy something ready-made. I don't think I've ever owned a bike, car, or motorcycle that I didn't fiddle with, starting with my first bike 55 years ago when I added handlebar streamers and put playing cards in the spokes.  

My current bike started out as a basic model like yours, but for me the geometry and riding position are right, and it's as comfortable as I seem to need it to be, so I don't see that I'd gain anything for my style of riding and at my age (61) with a new bike. One big improvement was replacing the Sora shifters with STI-style ST-R500s. In fact, if your bike is a triple with 8-speed cassette, the ones on my bike should be available in a few months as I change up to a 10-speed setup.

I also added a set of Mavic Aksium wheels, which are IMO one of the better wheelsets for the cost.

Of course, in a couple of years I'll run out of improvements to make and will have to start over with a new all-carbon bike. Hey, that's why I call it a "hobby".


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## Oldteen (Sep 7, 2005)

Cory said:


> This mature view is brought to you courtesy of the thousands of dollars I've spent on crap that didn't make any difference at all.


Truer words were never written.


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## unagidon (Jun 16, 2007)

I have OCR2, so slightly higher end tranny, but otherwise the same. This will become my trainer bike as we head into winter and hopefully, I'll have new wheels next spring. Basically, OCR3 is really not worth upgrading. Even selling, you won't get much money for it. Allow it to become your trainer bike and hopefully, you'll amaze everyone after lots of training when you ride your new carbon with dura-ace tranny


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## lechat67 (Sep 28, 2007)

kubi said:


> Thanks for all the helpful advice. After thinking about it and taking everyone's opinions into account, I'm going to ignore almost everyone's advice and go the upgrade path. When you get right down to it, I enjoy fiddling around with my bike. A significant percentage of the pleasure I get from having a bike is the tuneups, repairs, etc.


i'm the same way! i bought a new 2006 jamis ventura sport this summer for $400. off ebay and am using that resource to upgrade it .so far: (all prices include shipping) new 105 RD, $21.00 like new ultegra FD $16.00, terry fly saddle $36.00, new truvativ elita compact crank $72.00, in the next week i'll will have upgraded to 105 9 speed shifters, cassette and chain. minus what i'll get for my old parts i should be around the the original MSRP of $725.


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## Oldteen (Sep 7, 2005)

lechat67 said:


> i'm the same way! i bought a new 2006 jamis ventura sport this summer for $400. off ebay and am using that resource to upgrade it .so far: (all prices include shipping) new 105 RD, $21.00 like new ultegra FD $16.00, terry fly saddle $36.00, new truvativ elita compact crank $72.00, in the next week i'll will have upgraded to 105 9 speed shifters, cassette and chain. minus what i'll get for my old parts i should be around the the original MSRP of $725.


 Just think about what you might have spent if you bought that stuff retail and paid your LBS to install. Doing your own wrenching with those prices for parts can be a VERY cost-effective upgrade.


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## benchpress265 (Nov 7, 2006)

Sell it, and then buy a bike with at least 105 on it. Look at the used market (Craigslist), some really good deals out there, They get really good in the early spring.


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## Brandon318 (Jan 7, 2008)

I know this is an older thread, but felt it's still worth mentioning for those searching in the future...

I have an OCR 3 as a training bike, since I'm primarily a mountain biker, and I must say that this bike is fantastic for that purpose. It's on the heavier side, as legit road bikes go, which is good since when I get on my light cross-country racer, I go faster 

That said, if there's one thing that absolutely must be replaced, and I mean throw away the stock ones now and replace them, it's brake pads. The stock pads are junk. Brake pads, I would argue, in addition to good tires, are the single most important hard-component on a bike. Gotta stop!

Oh, and the obvious replacement: Pedals, if you have clips of course.

Otherwise, the Sora drivetrain works great for training. Shifts are crisp and precise. If I get into road racing, however, Giant's TCR Advanced is where I'm headed.


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## slicknick (Apr 12, 2007)

The OCR 3 is a good bike and there is nothing wrong with it. I have a TCR2 and although the geometry is different the alloys I believe are the same. It is not the lightest or heaviest and the ride can be a little harsh on bad roads but use a larger tire and it should take care of that. Ride what you have an sell it when you want new. Someone mentioned above that you won't get much selling it and I tend to disagree as it seems that entry level bikes (OCR3, Trek 1000, Specialized Allez) seem to hold their value well when searching ebay, cragislist, etc. Usually these bikes 1 or 2 years old only sell for maybe $150 less than their new value, when a $2000+ bike might be $500 cheaper or more when sold used.


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