# Ritchey Swiss Cross: UPGRAYEDD?



## sovereign (May 27, 2010)

I have a 2000 Ritchey Swiss Cross, which has served triple duties as a commuter, mountain bike, and road bike for 11 years, including winter use. It is setup with an Ultegra triple, Paul cantis, Thomson seatpost, XTR long cage, D/A bar ends, etc. I am considering upgrading the drivetrain to SRAM Rival/Force as I no longer need the triple and I think I'm done with the barends. The pivots on the XTR long cage are loose as well. The PD-747s are actually about 15 years old and the cleat engagement is way loose, though the bearings are OK, albeit slightly loose as well. Basically, everything works, but is a bit tired. So, I am considering breathing new life into this bike, but wonder if I am just putting lipstick on a pig? Downsides include that the frame has a 1" steerer, although it does have a Moots Ti Stem and King Aheadset. But the stem's downside is the 26.0mm bar clamp. Original Ritchey steel fork. 

Regarding the frame, the inside of the tubes were treated with Frame Save when new. It has not seen any hard hits off road. Any ideas how much life is left in a steel frame this old? 

The frame was powder coated MIL-APC green three years ago (I was sick of the Red, White and Blue paint scheme):










If I keep the bar and stem, I think I can get everything done for @ $750, including XTR PD-M980 pedals, Force compact crankset, and a remaining mix of Rival and Force parts. Any thoughts as to whether I am wasting money upgrading this thing? Should I just continue to ride it into the ground?


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## davidka (Dec 12, 2001)

You can sleeve down any 1-1/8" stem with a shim so that gets you to 31.8 bars if you feel the need. There are still 26.0 choices out there. 

This frame is absolutely worth riding, either the way it is or upgraded. There is no reason to think it won't go another 10 years.

Save your $$ on the cranks and get Rival. The rings are the same and the weight is very close. In fact, use Rival everything. Unless you're gram counting, there is no performance benefit unless you go with the RED shifters.


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## m_s (Nov 20, 2007)

That frame is sweet. Keep it unless you're obsessed with weight.


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## WA/SScrossracer (Oct 4, 2010)

yeah keep it. Your used to it, it's a awesome frame, probably pretty light for a steel frame and fork, and a bit lighter when you upgrade the drivetrain. If you havn't tried Sram you should try it out first, just so you know you'll like it, I like the hood shape a lot, but not the one lever shifting, and Shimano really improved 105 and up groups with the new hood shape-much better then the older 10sp shape, still a little heavier then SRam, but closer in weight now. I'm running the campy 10 levers/shimano 9speed setup now and like it. You could also Single speed it!! White eno hub. But yeah awesome frame, and steel is just cool, love my Kelly SS (OX platinum)Curtlo Geared (ox as well) heck even the old bean grean Cross check that started me out on cross(first SS now geared)


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## sovereign (May 27, 2010)

WA/SScrossracer said:


> yeah keep it. Your used to it, it's a awesome frame, probably pretty light for a steel frame and fork, and a bit lighter when you upgrade the drivetrain. If you havn't tried Sram you should try it out first, just so you know you'll like it...


I have been using SRAM Red on the Evo for the past two months.I like it, and it has prompted me to think about bringing the Swiss Cross up to speed and to standardize with SRAM across the board (I will more than likely end up with a SRAM drivetrain on a MTB soon as well). I am concerned about not having Zero Loss on the rear Rival/Force shifter. I wonder when the new Red stuff will be out? I could upgrayedd  the Evo and hand me down its "old" Red shifters to the cross.

I appreciate all the replies.


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## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

I am still riding 2 SwissCross's.
Replaced both drivetrains last year. 
I rebuilt mine with Campy 11sp from Ultegra and DuraAce 9sp.
Brought new life to my bikes.

Keep the bike, ride it hard.


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## jared_j (Jun 11, 2009)

*Double Dose*

He should keep it. You see gentlemen, a cyclocross racer's love is very different than the love of a square.


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## sovereign (May 27, 2010)

Well...

2010 Force crankset with GXP BB ordered. It was not much more than the cheapest Rival I could find. Also have a set of PD-M980 pedals for it on the way.


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

I will give you $25 as is.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*first let me say*

oversized stem / bars are highly over rated, especially for cross

second what's wrong with a 1" steerer? A 1" steerer tubed steel fork is better IMHO than any CF or Alu @1.125", 

with a ti stem and 26.o bar clamp you have stiffness and some vertical compliance

I ride similar set ups am 6'4" and 230, flex has never been an issue

that is an awesome bike, upgrade some of the drivetrain and maybe a swank set of wheels and be done and be happy


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## cyklopath (Feb 24, 2007)

I raced a Ritchey P21 when I was racing MTB in the 90's. I'd love to have a Swiss Cross!

Keep the fork, There is nothing wrong with what it has on it today fork-wise.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*I have the same fork*



cyklopath said:


> I raced a Ritchey P21 when I was racing MTB in the 90's. I'd love to have a Swiss Cross!
> 
> Keep the fork, There is nothing wrong with what it has on it today fork-wise.


I found NOS that I will use to replace the 1: Alu CF for on one of my vintage hakkalugis
it is the last non-stell fork I own


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

and FTR, mmmmmmm Plexus seat stays
what size is it?


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## bismo37 (Mar 22, 2002)

Love your SwissCross and the color. It's definitely a keeper and worthy of a drivetrain upgrade. I'd keep the steel fork.


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## Red Owl (May 9, 2008)

Lipstick on a pig? LOL

Tell me that Swiss Cross is a pig while you're blasting down a twisty CX single track at 25mph, I think it's one of the finest handling bikes of all time. 

KEEPER.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

people who sell bikes like this tend to really miss them after they've owned 2 or 3 new fancier bikes that don't feel half as good


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## sovereign (May 27, 2010)

Lazarus:










I went with RED shifters, as I wanted zero loss. Considered waiting for the 2013, but who knows when they'll be available. And at the price I paid for this set? Maybe never...










Force crankset and FD. Problem Solvers braze-on clamp. XTR pedals:










Avid Shorty Ultimates. Fork mounted cable hanger:



















Rival RD. SRAM PG-1070 11-28 cassette:










I found a *new* Ritchey WCS 27.0 seatpost for sale on Boston Craigslist for a song. This frame is designed for an offset seatpost- and I am as well. How I used the Thomson zero offset for so long I'll never know...










With Fizik Antares saddle: 










Ritchey 110mm WCS 4-Axis Stem and Evocurve Bars. I used a Thomson shim. I think the 1 1/8" Ritchey stems actually look better with 1" HS spacers. I overhauled the King HS. After *12 years* it is still like new:










20.00lbs. as pictured in heavy duty road setup. That is with the Open 4/Dura Ace wheels and wire bead Gator Skins. 1.5lbs less than before, with the same wheels. It weighs 18.67lbs. with Mavic Ksyrium Elites and Ultremo ZX tires. 










It definitely rides like a new bike. I appreciate all of the encouragement to buy a little lipstick for this old pig.


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## limba (Mar 10, 2004)

That's pretty awesome. Enjoy it.


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## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

Sweet


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

Sovereign, so happy you kept it
all it needs now are red panels on the ST and DT


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## Britishbane (Mar 4, 2009)

atpjunkie said:


> oversized stem / bars are highly over rated, especially for cross
> 
> second what's wrong with a 1" steerer? A 1" steerer tubed steel fork is better IMHO than any CF or Alu @1.125",
> 
> ...


Nothing wrong with 1'', but it is heavier than a 1.125 by just a bit. 

edit: bit of a missread on my part. I'm talking all steel above. What makes a steel steerer better than cf or alu?


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*a 1" steel steerer*



Britishbane said:


> Nothing wrong with 1'', but it is heavier than a 1.125 by just a bit.
> 
> edit: bit of a missread on my part. I'm talking all steel above. What makes a steel steerer better than cf or alu?


is heavier but stronger than either Alu or CF
that is the only point


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## sslos (Aug 11, 2003)

Beaut.

Los


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