# Devoloped Shift problems in middle cogs



## kevindef (May 19, 2008)

Just developed some rear shifting issues in the middle cogs. Tried like crazy to eliminate it, but can't. Put on a new chain, cassette and derailleur hanger about 3 weeks ago. Everything was great until yesterday. But everything I do to try and eliminate the noise etc doesn't help. I was thinking I may need a new cable maybe housing as well. Or is there something else I am missing? The cable and housing does have about 2,900 miles on them. It is a Shimano 105 Rear der. and 105 shifters. Could there be something with the shifter.

I put the shifter and chain into the smallest cog and dialed the barrel adjuster so the cable was as loose as possible. I then tightened the barrel adjuster little by little as I tried shifting up 1 cog. I did this until I was able to cleanly go from the smallest cog to the next smallest. I then tried shifting up to the next cog and adjusted the barrel adjuster if needed to get the first 3 cogs as smooth and noise free as possible then no matter what I do the middle cogs are noisy and do not shift cleanly. I do eventually get to the largest cog, but it is noisy. I have pulled on the cable on the downtube to see if I can get rid of the noise and smooth things out. That works. I looked at the cable guide under the bottom bracket, that seems to be fine. I am at a loss as to what to do. That is why a new cable may be what is needed. Have I missed something??? Thanks for any help!!!


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## Spunout (Aug 12, 2002)

I find Shimano drivetrains work best when tuned so that the downshift is solid. Sounds like your cable can still be a bit tighter. 

Tune it tight as you can so that you still get a solid downshift (to smaller cogs). If it delays, too tight.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

if your cables are that old, it may be that the cable is fraying inside the shifter. this will cause problems where the fraying part of the cable gets into the shifter...(on a work stand)shift to your biggest cog, stop pedaling and upshift all the way down so the cable is slack. pull the rear section of housing out of the stop on the frame to get more slack. pull the lever back (like braking) and push the cable out of the shifter. if it's frayed, it's time for new cables/housing.


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## Stogaguy (Feb 11, 2006)

*My $0.02.*

The other guys have given you good advice. Here is my $0.02; 

1. Check and adjust the derailleur hanger alignment with a Park DAG-2 or similar tool. Even small misalignments of the hanger can produce the type of shifting issues you report. IMHO this is the most overlooked step in proper rear derailleur setup. Probably because it requires a special tool.

2. Change the housing and cable. This is fairly cheap and it eliminates cable and housing issues as a possible cause. If there is anything (dirt, sticky lube, fraying) hanging up the free travel of the cable, it will affect the shifting. Personally, I wish Shimano would put stronger return springs in their rear derailleurs.

3. I agree with spunout. Run the cable as tight as you can and still get solid shifting going to the next smallest cog. My 105 drivetrain seems to run best when set up like this.

4. Learn to use the barrel adjuster on the fly. I sometimes find myself moving the adjustment a quarter or half a turn mid-ride to dial-in the shifting. Why this is needed, I do not know, but my 105 9-speed seems to require this.


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

Sounds like your shift cable is about to break. Take it out and look at it, I'll bet you have a few broken strands. I just realized that cxwrench already basically said this so....I agree with him.


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## kevindef (May 19, 2008)

Thanks for the help everyone! I will try a few more adjustments after work today and see what I can do. I have ordered the DAG-2 and it will be here Thursday. Cables and housing may be a good thing anyway so I may just do that to try and avoid any further issues and just eliminate the cables as the source of the problem. Thanks again!


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

kevindef said:


> Thanks for the help everyone! I will try a few more adjustments after work today and see what I can do. I have ordered the DAG-2 and it will be here Thursday. Cables and housing may be a good thing anyway so I may just do that to try and avoid any further issues and just eliminate the cables as the source of the problem. Thanks again!


I have the exact same scenario and plan to put new cables and housing on my bike soon. Please post the fix when you find it. I have seen other threads about this and the repliess were that it is probably an alignment problem.


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## kevindef (May 19, 2008)

*Problem fixed*

Well, the problem is fixed! It was a frayed cable at the shifter. Replaced the cable and everything is smooth and quiet as can be. Thanks for your help everyone. Much appreciated.


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## iliveonnitro (Feb 19, 2006)

3000mi? Time to replace the cable. Fraying insides (especially by the shifter) are hard to impossible to see and will cause shifting problems in both directions.


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## iliveonnitro (Feb 19, 2006)

iliveonnitro said:


> 3000mi? Time to replace the cable. Fraying insides (especially by the shifter) are hard to impossible to see and will cause shifting problems in both directions.


Damnit. See what happens when I open a thread and come back to it 20min later?

Glad it's fixed, though.


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## DieselDan (Sep 14, 2002)

Shimano recommends changing shifter cables once a year on road shifters. I don't know about the new 7900 and 6700.


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## kevindef (May 19, 2008)

Just ordered a whole new Ultegra 6700 groupset to replace my 105/FSA/SRAM stuff. Shifters, brakes and Derailleurs are 105, crank FSA Gossamer, and cassette SRAM. I also have a nice KMC x10SL chain with 525 miles on it. Cassette also only has 525 miles, but figured I would give the new 6700 cassette a try. So, should I use the KMC chain or go with an Ultegra 6700 chain??? The Shimano is a directional chain and is "supposedly" supposed to shift better with the new 6700 stuff. I did get 2 6700 chains, so I will have them anyway. So, KMC or Shimano 6700??? Thanks!


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## spokenwald (Mar 10, 2012)

*Ultegra rear derailleur shifting problem*

I had installed an entire new Ultegra 10 speed drive train a year and a half ago which never shifted properly even after about 10 visits to different LBS's. I sent the whole system back and had a whole new system installed. Same exact shifting issues: imprecise, not one gear per lever shift. Half shifts. It can be adjusted to shift up but then not down and vice versa. Finally had it working well and replaced all cables and housing(Jagwire) and now back to same old mis- shifting. One thread here spoke of shifting being poor depending on how cable was anchored either above or below the anchor bolt. I'll have to check how it's anchored and get back. Any experience with this? The 9 speed NEVER did this either Dura Ace or Ulegra on several set ups.
thanks


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## maxxevv (Jan 18, 2009)

spokenwald said:


> I had installed an entire new Ultegra 10 speed drive train a year and a half ago which never shifted properly even after about 10 visits to different LBS's. I sent the whole system back and had a whole new system installed. Same exact shifting issues: imprecise, not one gear per lever shift. Half shifts. It can be adjusted to shift up but then not down and vice versa. Finally had it working well and replaced all cables and housing(Jagwire) and now back to same old mis- shifting. One thread here spoke of shifting being poor depending on how cable was anchored either above or below the anchor bolt. I'll have to check how it's anchored and get back. Any experience with this? The 9 speed NEVER did this either Dura Ace or Ulegra on several set ups.
> thanks


First, check that your wheel is properly seated center on the frame. 

Then check that you have a 'good and proper' quick release. A lot of the new lightweight QR's are of poor clamping force. Resulting in the rear wheel decentering once you put the power down on the road. 

I've seen it quite a few times already. Simple fix. Else follow what's been suggested on the rest of the thread.


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## esldude (Jan 3, 2009)

First I guess this re-opened a 3 year old thread.

I had issues like yours with a 105 groupset, all new once. Ended up using one extra link in the chain. No reason for it I could see. The chain was the proper length when set up big to big. You just couldn't adjust it to work smoothly. One extra link, all the normal adjustments, shifts great now. Never had that kind of issue on other bikes. My only guess is the extra link would have altered the angle of the derailleur just a bit, and somehow that works much smoother.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

kevindef said:


> Just developed some rear shifting issues in the middle cogs. Tried like crazy to eliminate it, but can't. <snip> The cable and housing does have about 2,900 miles on them. It is a Shimano 105 Rear der. and 105 shifters. Could there be something with the shifter.


This almost always indicates the cables are fraying inside the levers. 105s especially have issues with this. 

Whenever shifting doesn't improve in both directions with 105 levers by adjusting the barrel adjuster, immediately suspect fraying cables in the levers.

At least, that's the way it works with mine.


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## Scott in MD (Jun 24, 2008)

This could very likely be a bent derailleur hanger. I had same symptoms and LBS removed it, straightened it , now it works great. I picked up an extra new hanger but have never even installed it. Make sure your shop tests the total radial runout on your rim brake surface with a special indicator mounted on the hanger to check that the hanger is perfect straight and I bet this fixes what ails you.


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## spokenwald (Mar 10, 2012)

everything is in alighnment and checked out. I'll try the extra link solution as the QR,hanger, cables, etc. are all good. thanks all.


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