# Integrated headset clicking, anyone know how to fix this!?!



## jd7707 (Dec 18, 2010)

I have a 2011 cannondale supersix with a system integrated headset and I cannot get the headset/ handlebars to stop clicking. I have everything greased including the qr's and there is no play in the headset. Anyone have this same problem with integrated headsets? I would greatly appreciate replies because i hate dumb noises like this! Thanks!!!


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Possible cause.*

"No play" doesn't necessarily mean that there's enough headset bearing pre-load. Loosen steerer clamp bolts, compress the headset until there's _too much _preload (begining of sluggish wheel flop), then back off a little to re-establish free movement. Tighten steerer clamp bolts. Normally, the noise of a loose headset is more of a "clunk" when hitting irregularites in the road, but perhaps that's what you meant by "clicking."


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## jd7707 (Dec 18, 2010)

definitly not a clunk sound its a click and everything feels tight. The preload nut is the one on top correct? this headset has two hex nuts, one down inside and one at the top of the cap. The hex nut down inside has to be really tight correct?


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

When I first picked up my SuperSix this winter I adjusted the headset as I normally would. However this wasn't anywhere near the snugness I needed! I found cranking it down at WIM said helped.


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## jd7707 (Dec 18, 2010)

which one are you cranking down? the one down inside the headset or at the top?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jd7707 said:


> which one are you cranking down? the one down inside the headset or at the top?


No offense meant, but if you have to ask this question it might be better to bring your bike to your LBS to have the headset bearing pre-load checked/ adjusted. 

While anything's possible, IME headsets don't usually make a clicking sound, more likely clunks or thwacks when the fork is jarred. Clicking occurs between two alu parts, such as bar/ stem, post/ frame or clamp/ saddle rail assemblies. Last time I had a clicking noise, I was 'sure' it was coming from the bar/ stem area and it turned out to be my saddle rail/ clamp. 

Because sounds travel through frames, the hard part is narrowing down the source, so I suggest branching out and checking some other areas, along with rechecking the bar/ stem.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

jd7707 said:


> definitly not a clunk sound its a click and everything feels tight. The preload nut is the one on top correct? this headset has two hex nuts, one down inside and one at the top of the cap. The hex nut down inside has to be really tight correct?


The one down inside expands and sets the plug, so yes, it needs to be tight. Don't overdo it, but you're right, it's not an adjustment nut.

Also correct, the one on top sets the pre-load by compressing the headset components. As said, make sure the two clamping screws are loose so the stem is able to move down on the steerer as you set pre-load. I like to have those clamping screws "semi-loose" so the hadlebar doesn't flop around like a lamb's tail.


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## jd7707 (Dec 18, 2010)

@wim, haha lamb's tail! The very top bolt needs to be tighten to i just hear a creak then back off 1/8th turn right? It shouldnt be torqued right?


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

jd7707 said:


> @wim, haha lamb's tail! The very top bolt needs to be tighten to i just hear a creak then back off 1/8th turn right? It shouldnt be torqued right?


Yes, the very top bolt sets the pre-load, so it needs to be tightened carefully. Forget "hearing the creak," not sure where that came from. 

What I do is pick up the front of the bike and tilt it slightly to one side after each 1/4 turn of tightening. I do that so I can to observe the ease and speed with which the front wheel flops in the direction of the tilt (don't let the handlebar hit the top tube). When that flop starts to slow down and gets "draggy," the top bolt was tightened a bit too much. Back off 1/8 - 1/4 turn and check wheel flop again. If good, tighten the clamp bolts fully.

But as said, it may not be the headset. Sounds travel through bike frames in mysterious ways.


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## turbomatic73 (Jan 22, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> No offense meant, but if you have to ask this question it might be better to bring your bike to your LBS to have the headset bearing pre-load checked/ adjusted.


+1...take it to a shop and ask the mechanic if you can watch while he adjusts. 

I have had creaky integrated headsets before. Per the earlier suggestion, the preload on some integrated headsets needs to be tighter than just eliminating play - it seems to take an extra little turn to get the bearing surfaces completely meshed. I've also had luck lightly greasing the outer surfaces of the cartridge bearings and the head tube surface on which they sit, then reinstalling everything. Had this issue just a few weeks ago...


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