# Best way to make bike lighter/faster?



## kenken662

Hi, I got a 17.8 lb Focus bike and am disturbed by the weight... What would be the best way to make it lighter and faster (wheels, components, other stuff)? The wheels weigh 1900 g total.. And how noticeable is a few (1-2) extra pounds on your bike while climbing?


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## nolight

A lighter wheelset to get it down to 1500-1600g is doable and many would consider worthwhile since it is rolling mass.


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## mikerp

Needs a new engine.


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## Tachycardic

Why are you disturbed by its weight? Did you not know how much it weighed when you go it? How light do you want to go?


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## dnice

wheels then possibly the crankset (depending on what crankset is on there now). after that, you can go weight weenie on lots of things--seat post, bars, brakes, all wth lesser returns per dollar output. 

if you want to climb better, swap the wheels first. then you'll have no excuse when you realize that you need to really work harder developing your engine and technique and becoming a better climber.


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## mann2

definitely wheels first. this upgrade is one you can immediately feel. 

check the saddle too. you'll be surprised at how much some stock saddles weigh.

cockpit (stem, bars, seatpost) - worth looking into but i'd do this last

group - usually worth doing as well.


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## Typetwelve

mikerp said:


> Needs a new engine.


This.

I was talking bike weight with a long time rider and his reply was "I seriously doubt you'll shed 10 lbs from a 18 lb bike...but you can shed 10 lbs from your body."

I've tried to take that to heart and maintain my weight...


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## Randy99CL

What material is your frame made of?
What price range is the bike in? What components?
How much are you willing to spend?

The current weight isn't horrible and it is likely that you've already got fairly light components so it probably won't be cheap to get it much lighter.

If the 1900g figure for the wheels is bare; without cassette and tires/tubes, then yes you can take off quite a bit there without spending a fortune, and that weight loss would make the most difference in improving the overall performance of the bike.
But how much do you weigh? You shouldn't go with superlight wheels if you're a big guy.

The crankset is usually the next thing to check. But if you've already got newer Ultegra, for example, it may cost hundreds of dollars to save a few ounces.
After that it can get really expensive to take off fairly small amounts of weight: $200+ carbon handlebars might save 100g. $100 carbon seatpost might save another 100g. $150 saddle might remove a few ounces, etc.

I've got a thread going on how I've taken over 5 pounds off an entry-level Trek: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/sa...self-indulgent-weight-loss-thread-303635.html
but I've upgraded everything except the frame, fork and headset and spent right around the original purchase price of the bike to do it.


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## Guod

Randy99CL said:


> What material is your frame made of?
> What price range is the bike in? What components?
> How much are you willing to spend?
> 
> The current weight isn't horrible and it is likely that you've already got fairly light components so it probably won't be cheap to get it much lighter.
> 
> If the 1900g figure for the wheels is bare; without cassette and tires/tubes, then yes you can take off quite a bit there without spending a fortune, and that weight loss would make the most difference in improving the overall performance of the bike.
> But how much do you weigh? You shouldn't go with superlight wheels if you're a big guy.
> 
> The crankset is usually the next thing to check. But if you've already got newer Ultegra, for example, it may cost hundreds of dollars to save a few ounces.
> After that it can get really expensive to take off fairly small amounts of weight: $200+ carbon handlebars might save 100g. $100 carbon seatpost might save another 100g. $150 saddle might remove a few ounces, etc.
> 
> I've got a thread going on how I've taken over 5 pounds off an entry-level Trek: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/sa...self-indulgent-weight-loss-thread-303635.html
> but I've upgraded everything except the frame, fork and headset and spent right around the original purchase price of the bike to do it.


No offense, but I'm not sure this is a rational approach... Doubling the cost of an entry level bike to make it lighter could have gotten you a pretty damn light bike with a higher quality frame.

I agree that wheels could make the bike lighter for the least amount of g/$. The biggest thing to understand though, is that lighter and faster do not necessarily go hand in hand.

That being said, go for some wheels. Just make sure you're looking for a quality wheel that'll ride nicely and not just the lightest wheel you can find. The ride quality will do alot more for you than just pure weight reduction. After that, I'd call it quits. You'll spend alot of money to drop grams in small amounts that won't really be worth it.

What will be worth it and won't cost you any more than you've spent at this point, is ride the crap out of what you have. I can say with nearly 100% certainty riding alot more will make you faster. Plus, crushing someone on a 15lb SWorks This and That or a Cannondale EVO Hi-Dollar or a Trek Schleck edition Quittin' Time Madone on an 18lb mid level bike in the hills is always a nice feeling.

NOTE: I don't hate nice bikes... Just throwing an example of where the machine doesn't matter out there.


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## exracer

Making a bike lighter; wheels first then the crank.
Making a bike faster, that depends on the engine. Bikes don't get faster all by themselves.


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## NJBiker72

Typetwelve said:


> This.
> 
> I was talking bike weight with a long time rider and his reply was "I seriously doubt you'll shed 10 lbs from a 18 lb bike...but you can shed 10 lbs from your body."
> 
> I've tried to take that to heart and maintain my weight...


Agree. I do not want unnecessary weight on the bike but better eating habits would help me more than my new wheels will.


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## tednugent

kenken662 said:


> Hi, I got a 17.8 lb Focus bike and am disturbed by the weight... What would be the best way to make it lighter and faster (wheels, components, other stuff)? The wheels weigh 1900 g total.. And how noticeable is a few (1-2) extra pounds on your bike while climbing?


You should try riding my hardtail MTB.... then you'll be happy with the 17.8 lbs of your Focus road bike.

If you're that disturbed by weight.... I hope you don't have any provisions that hold water for hydration, a seat bag for tubes and such....... all those should go into your jersey pockets


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## JCavilia

kenken662 said:


> how noticeable is a few (1-2) extra pounds on your bike while climbing?


Pretty much not. At all.

Just a few years ago an 18-pound bike was considered very light. It still is very light, in truth. A full water bottle weighs 2 pounds.


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## Charlie the Unicorn

JCavilia said:


> Pretty much not. At all.
> 
> Just a few years ago an 18-pound bike was considered very light. It still is very light, in truth. A full water bottle weighs 2 pounds.


Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


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## Pitts Pilot

Best way to make it lighter is by replacing parts with ones that are lighter than the current ones. This will not make it any faster. Best way to make it faster is to pedal faster (in the same gear or a taller one.) This may require training.

Lighter wheels do make the bike "feel" different, but the gain in speed compared to losing weight elsewhere is not particularly significant.


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## wim

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


That may well be true. But unless you've clocked yourself up a certain climb, you really don't know if it made much of a difference in terms of time.

Just as a reference: On a 7.5 mile climb with an average gradient of 7%, a few short 16% sections and an elevation gain of 2,700 feet, a 1-pound reduction would make you 15 seconds faster. Note that this one pound can come off anywhere—bike, rider, accessories. It doesn't even matter if it's off the wheels or not.


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## Randy99CL

Guod said:


> No offense, but I'm not sure this is a rational approach... Doubling the cost of an entry level bike to make it lighter could have gotten you a pretty damn light bike with a higher quality frame.


You're absolutely right and no I didn't take offense, thanks. 

I wrote of it to point out that it is relatively easy to get carried away and build a bike that isn't as good as what you could have bought new if you had spent that amount of money in the first place.

As I've explained in my thread, I have done this before and seen the result. The only way I could justify the expense this time is by buying another frame and fork and transferring all the take-off parts to build a second bike.


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## Oxtox

thru the addition of lighter wheels, saddle, pedals I just reduced the weight of a bike by over 2 lbs.

the effect is noticeable when I pick it up, but much less so when I ride it.

but, I have no regrets over my choices...it makes me want to ride it more.


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## ph0enix

Speed will come from you, not the bike. 
Start training and then show the weenies on their 13lbs bikes who's boss 

With that said, if you really want to spend money on making the bike lighter, tell us which Focus model you have or what components you have on it so we can guide you better. 
1900g wheels may not be that heavy if they're really deep.


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## tlg

kenken662 said:


> What would be the best way to make it lighter


Best way & cheapest way.... buy a new bike! If you really want to lighten up your bike you have to analyze every component and replace many of them at just a few gram savings each. 
Your wheels are on the heavy side. If you really wanted to, it would be the best bang for your buck. You can get some lighter wheels without spending too much. Although you didn't say how heavy you are. If you're a clydsedale, you may need the beefy wheels



> Best way to make bike faster


*Forget all the saving weight BS!* You're wasting time and money. Tune up the engine. Reduce the weight of the engine. Ride more. Ride harder.

Those that say they "feel" instant savings with their new lighter components are feeling the placebo effect. They haven't done any proofing to see that they're not going any faster.

The last few weeks I've been doing hill repeats on top of my regular riding. One hill (1mi long) up and down 3 times as fast as I can.
Week #2 was 10sec faster/hill than week #1 (30sec) overall.
Week #3 was 20sec faster/hill than week #2 (60sec) overall.

In 3 weeks I've gotten 90sec faster over a 6mi course. If you think you can buy that kind of speed increase with lighter components, I've got a bridge to sell you.


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## Mike T.

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


This can only be felt during acceleration and somewhat on climbs. Heavier wheels roll better when up to speed (thanks to Mr Newton). You just ditched the equivalent of 3/4 of a small full waterbottle (440g versus 648g). Overall average speed increase - almost zero.


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## SauronHimself

Wheels would probably make the biggest difference. From 1900g you could easily go down to the 1500-1600g range without spending a ton of money, and that drops the weight by 10.6-14.1 oz. Then again, I'm not sure why you see 17.8 lbs as too heavy of a bike. My first road bike was a 2003 Specialized Allez Elite at 19 lbs and change, and I blew past all the carbon bikes. Like others have said, it's the engine that matters most.


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## Fireform

I lost 35 pounds last year. My bike climbs a lot better now.


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## Duane Gran

The cheapest short term gain can be made with lighter tires and tubes, but the tires wear out faster. I agree with others that the wheels are the place to start. ~18lbs isn't a bad weight for a bike though.


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## arai_speed

Fireform said:


> I lost 35 pounds last year. My bike climbs a lot better now.


I couldn't agree more! I really can't, even if I tried.


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## looigi

Yep. I find losing body weight to make more a difference than losing bike weight. Less weight to support and move around on the bike, less weight on your butt and hands, more efficient heat dissipation...and that's in addition to not accelerating that weight or hauling up hills. My two full water bottles weigh 3.5 lbs and I certainly can't tell from the ride whether they're full or empty.


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## ziscwg

Wheels, 1900 is a lot of weight.

My Williams Sys30 are 1550 gr clinchers that are 30 mm deep and only cost me $500.

After that, hire a coach and get a training plan. You'll be faster and have more money in your pocket than taking a pound of the bike.


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## MB1

Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades.


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## 68gtosca

Gentlemen:

Build a better motor. Invest in your self - cross-train to decrease body weight and not to over train on the bike. Grow a pair and really train hard. Everyone wants to be fast - but only one in a thousand has the three Ds necessary to make it happen. If you want be quicker, the motor needs to be the first priority. Almost everyone is afraid of the pain - because to become fast pain will have to be a continual friend. Forget lighting our bike - build the motor - once you have the motor the bike will come.


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## Maximus_XXIV

What are the three Ds? 

I agree with the sentiment of riding more and harder. Maybe use specific upgrades as rewards for attaining some benchmark you set out in advance. Pick the achievements you want to make and then plan out how to get there with regular check points. That should keep you motivated towards your larger goal.


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## Typetwelve

MB1 said:


> Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades.


Quoting legends = win.


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## pacific

68gtosca said:


> Gentlemen:
> 
> Everyone wants to be fast - but only one in a thousand has the three Ds necessary to make it happen.


my wife has Ds. double Ds, actually, but she only has two of them. i guess that's why she's not that fast.


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## headloss

kenken662 said:


> Hi, I got a 17.8 lb Focus bike and am disturbed by the weight...


Ride my 28# Kona hybrid for a while, then get back on your "heavy" bicycle. Hope that helps! 

You could also shed a few grams if you don't wear socks!


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## Typetwelve

headloss said:


> Ride my 28# Kona hybrid for a while, then get back on your "heavy" bicycle. Hope that helps!
> 
> You could also shed a few grams if you don't wear socks!


Yup...I have a Specialized Crossroads that is heavy like a tank...I lovingly call it the "minivan" and use it for family rides.

Grinding up hill on that thing makes me realize exactly how light my road bike really is.

Then again the weight makes for a seriously smooth ride...and the darn thing nearly stands up in its own...pretty fun for family crawls...


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## Camilo

Pitts Pilot said:


> Best way to make it lighter is by replacing parts with ones that are lighter than the current ones. This will not make it any faster. Best way to make it faster is to pedal faster (in the same gear or a taller one.) This may require training.
> 
> Lighter wheels do make the bike "feel" different, but the gain in speed compared to losing weight elsewhere is not particularly significant.


I quoted this because it closely matches my opinion.

All it takes to make a bike lighter is money. It's a simple formula: write down the weight of every part on your bike, including frame and fork, and then buy something lighter.

It might be very marginally faster, but probably not meaningfully. It might very well feel quicker and be more fun to ride. 

As for bang/buck, everyone's mentioned wheels. 1500-1600 gram wheels aren't too expensive ($3-400 online and/or used). You can get down to 1400 +/- for about $5-600 online and/or used. I believe they might not make you faster, but will probably give you a boost in quickness feel and enjoyment.

Don't forget the easiest and cheapest: Tires and tubes. Depending on what tires and tubes you currently have you can sometimes drop as much as a pound (~400 grams) or very easily 1/2 pound (~200 grams) just by buying good quality, lightweight tires and lightweight tubes. Benefits to this: kind a "no cost" item if you wait til you need new tires. Plus, in my experience, the good quality lightweight tires also ride noticeably better (I use Michelin Pro Race). These work similar to wheel weight in that they just feel quicker and better.


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## Kerry Irons

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


Shaving 450 grams on a 6% grade at 250 watts output will save about 35 seconds per hour of climbing. That's significant if you're leading the Tour de France (or Giro, Vuelta, etc.) and not much any place else. On the flats the weight savings would have an insignificant effect. Yes, you felt the difference. The stopwatch would not be so generous in its assessment.


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## willieboy

Below is something i wrote some time ago concerning bike weight. It's not meant to change anyone's decision about upgrading their bike. Just my real world experience.

"I totally got obsessed with my bikes weight shortly after I started riding. Taking off over a pound with a wheel set, another pound and a half with the group set, a few ounces with the pedals, bars etc. After spending way too much money I probably have the most over built Giant Defy Advanced in the world. Just less than fifteen pounds dry, sixteen pounds two ounces with pedals, cages and computer, just less than twenty pounds with all my gear on it and ready to ride with two bottles. Has it made me any faster? My average speed gain over the last year and 4000+ miles is .8 MPH. And most of the overall improvement has come from training IMO. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done if different. Hard for me to say it but I just had too."

Now it's been quite a while since I wrote this and while I like my bike very much I would attribute 90% of my gains over the last year to diet and training. I'm not trying to discourage you from upgrades because each one seemed to give me some motivation. It was like I must get better because I spent the money on this or that. What I realize now is, diet and training are the most important areas for me. Will I upgrade again? No doubt. Will it make me better? Probably not. 

Now it's about two years later and have just completed a new bike build. A Lynskey R230. Slightly more aggressive geometry and titanium. It weighs in one pound heavier than my Giant. Most of that is in the group set as I opted for the Chorus 11 rather than the Super Record 11 I put on the Giant. I'm more comfortable, in a more aero position (after a professional fit) and I'm setting personal bests in every area. I attribute the improvement to nothing more than time, diet and training. 

My point is the weight will become less of a focus as your strength and technic improves. Good luck with whatever you choose to do and enjoy the process. It's fun to get new parts. Enjoy the road my friend and keep rolling  Most of all, have fun out there.


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## ph0enix

Kerry Irons said:


> Shaving 450 grams on a 6% grade at 250 watts output will save about 35 seconds per hour of climbing. That's significant if you're leading the Tour de France (or Giro, Vuelta, etc.) and not much any place else. On the flats the weight savings would have an insignificant effect. Yes, you felt the difference. The stopwatch would not be so generous in its assessment.


Kerry, you're forgetting a very important aspect. It's difficult to brag to all your friends that you have the lightest bike when parktool scales are readily available and cheap


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## Typetwelve

It's too easy to get obsessed with equipment in my opinion...and yes, I'm guilty of it too.

I have to tell myself that it won't make a massive difference and just to go out and ride.

Now...I will say this...kit makes a HUGE difference (again, to a point). A comfortable kit makes all the difference in a ride, especially when the miles start adding up or the heat is on. Going form a lower level kit last year (Pearl Izumi) to a mid level kit this year (Castelli) I can say that the fit and comfort is far better. The padding on the shorts alone is a reason to upgrade.

I went from an entry level Specialized helmet to a Giro Aeon...what a difference in not only air flow...but weight. The strain on my neck after longer rides is far less than it was with a heavier helmet.

I also went from low level plastic soled shoes to mid level carbon shoes. Again, slightly lighter and MUCH stiffer, the comfort of my feet has vastly improved. This all adds up to me being more comfortable in the saddle and that means more performance. When I'm not focusing on my feet being numb, my taint screaming, my neck cramping or my jersey riding up...I'm free to focus on riding. When I can focus on riding...i always have better stats.

Next season I'm going "all in" and getting bibs...


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## carbonconvert

Your rig is fine. Any half decent setup is ALWAYS held back by the motor.
Gear wise, sub 1300 gram carbon hoops make a nice finishing touch.
Cost of admission starts at 3k. Indulgent but, they do add to your ride experience


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## Dave Cutter

Typetwelve said:


> This.
> 
> I was talking bike weight with a long time rider and his reply was "I seriously doubt you'll shed 10 lbs from a 18 lb bike...but you can shed 10 lbs from your body."
> 
> I've tried to take that to heart and maintain my weight...


Riding the exact same bicycle and dropping a bunch of weight made my climbs a completely different experience.


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## Typetwelve

Dave Cutter said:


> Riding the exact same bicycle and dropping a bunch of weight made my climbs a completely different experience.


You and me both. 

This time 2011 I was 265lbs (6' tall)...I started working out and by spring 2012 was down to 200lbs. I started riding a borrowed Roubaix and got down to 165 or so last season. During the winter I did what most do and bounced around a bit but I've managed to stay in the high 160s, low 170s range.

Now...I never rode at 265...but the difference between 200 and 165 was HUGE...the effort it takes to push a machine to 18-30 mph is vastly different when you drop 30 lbs. climbing? That's not even in the same ballpark...try strapping 30lbs over your body and go grind a local hill...it will seem impossible.

Ill carry 50lb bags or water softener salt down to my basement and think to myself "how in the heck was I carrying nearly two of these on my frame everywhere I went?" It almost seems unreal thinking back on it.


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## headloss

Typetwelve said:


> Yup...I have a Specialized Crossroads that is heavy like a tank...I lovingly call it the "minivan" and use it for family rides.


For a while, the lightest bicycle I owned was a Trek 520. You know it's bad when a touring cycle is the lightest one! I've since built up a Schwinn Paramount. I'm still not riding anything below 18# and honestly at a loss why anyone would need even less than that (thus, the snark above). But then, it takes all kinds... 

I can't honestly say that an 18# bike feels any different than a 24# bike to me on most days... yet, I could probably taste the difference of 3 IBUs in my pale-ale. None the less, I'm watching this thread just to see if any good advise gets thrown out that I haven't considered as there is no sense in carrying around dead weight. It does seem that the real difference is in the tubes and the OP should just start with another frame.


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## Charlie the Unicorn

Kerry Irons said:


> Shaving 450 grams on a 6% grade at 250 watts output will save about 35 seconds per hour of climbing. That's significant if you're leading the Tour de France (or Giro, Vuelta, etc.) and not much any place else. On the flats the weight savings would have an insignificant effect. Yes, you felt the difference. The stopwatch would not be so generous in its assessment.


Ok, since this is about the 3rd person in this thread quoting me, let's bring a few other things in-- I'm not climbing for hours, east coast hills some of what I'm referring to are small rises in the road, often coming off of a slight downhill. On my commute (which I use as a training ride) it's much easier to spin and hold my speed on those small rises with the lighter wheels than it is w/ the heavier ones. As for losing that speed once I get over the rise because the wheel is lighter...a 45mm enve rim vs a 27mm kinlin rim should have some aero properties that play in as well.


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## mikerp

Typetwelve said:


> It's too easy to get obsessed with equipment in my opinion...and yes, I'm guilty of it too.
> 
> I have to tell myself that it won't make a massive difference and just to go out and ride.
> 
> Now...I will say this...kit makes a HUGE difference (again, to a point). A comfortable kit makes all the difference in a ride, especially when the miles start adding up or the heat is on. Going form a lower level kit last year (Pearl Izumi) to a mid level kit this year (Castelli) I can say that the fit and comfort is far better. The padding on the shorts alone is a reason to upgrade.
> 
> I went from an entry level Specialized helmet to a Giro Aeon...what a difference in not only air flow...but weight. The strain on my neck after longer rides is far less than it was with a heavier helmet.
> 
> I also went from low level plastic soled shoes to mid level carbon shoes. Again, slightly lighter and MUCH stiffer, the comfort of my feet has vastly improved. This all adds up to me being more comfortable in the saddle and that means more performance. When I'm not focusing on my feet being numb, my taint screaming, my neck cramping or my jersey riding up...I'm free to focus on riding. When I can focus on riding...i always have better stats.
> 
> Next season I'm going "all in" and getting bibs...


Nice to see someone enlightened, your clothing definitely plays a role in the equation. I almost feel as if I own stock in Castelli and Sidi, one of my sons and I are definitely poster boys for them.


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## mikerp

Everyone can use an extra set of wheels, but if you buy some don't expect them to work magic.


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## NJBiker72

mikerp said:


> Everyone can use an extra set of wheels, but if you buy some don't expect them to work magic.


Curious. Why do you say this? Getting a new set and was thinking the old ones would go on Ebay/Craigslist. Debated for 30 seconds putting them on the beater bike but then realized how quickly I would snap spokes like that.


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## alegerlotz

Oxtox said:


> thru the addition of lighter wheels, saddle, pedals I just reduced the weight of a bike by over 2 lbs.
> 
> the effect is noticeable when I pick it up, but much less so when I ride it.
> 
> but, I have no regrets over my choices...it makes me want to ride it more.


I took about the same amount of weight off mine, and there is a perceived difference when climbing, but that could be all placebo effect.

I don't regret my choices either. I like the way the bike looks and feels. The speed limiter, however, is most definitely me.


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## mikerp

NJBiker72 said:


> Curious. Why do you say this? Getting a new set and was thinking the old ones would go on Ebay/Craigslist. Debated for 30 seconds putting them on the beater bike but then realized how quickly I would snap spokes like that.


Different set for different riding conditions (race/hills/wind/etc)
Wheels get worn/damaged if you have one set of wheels and trash a wheel you are in the SOL position. You have to buy now at whatever price you can get them at and you may have to wait until they get shipped. Same principle behind having more than one ride. Chance of rain high do I really want to take out my best ride or do I grab another bike.


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## tlg

willieboy said:


> "I totally got obsessed with my bikes weight shortly after I started riding. Taking off over a pound with a wheel set, another pound and a half with the group set, a few ounces with the pedals, bars etc. After spending way too much money I probably have the most over built Giant Defy Advanced in the world. Just less than fifteen pounds dry, sixteen pounds two ounces with pedals, cages and computer, just less than twenty pounds with all my gear on it and ready to ride with two bottles.


I'm curious, did you happen to keep track of how much money you put into all the upgrades?


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## willieboy

tlg said:


> I'm curious, did you happen to keep track of how much money you put into all the upgrades?


Yes. Makes me ride harder


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## Camilo

This has turned into a fairly typical "why go lighter, it really doesn't make a difference" thread. Absolutely true. I think the most interesting addition to this thread is the fact that if you want to spend money (and that's part of it, right.... just want something new?), make sure you pay attention to the clothes, helmet, shoes, etc. Good fitting, quality, shoes really do improve enjoyment. Bibs or shorts - really improve enjoyment, but you need to find the right ones, and then remember you need at least 2-3 pair to make sure you can wear them only once and then have another pair to wear if the first pair don't get laundered immediately.

And remember the saddle and handlebars - don't just put up with what you have, get ones that really make you feel better on the bike. If you can loose some ounces while at it, hey, it's a win-win! 

But contact points are ALWAYS a good upgrade.

But for the bike and wheels.... Yea, yea, yea, losing body weight is cheaper and more important. It also means you're probably in better shape because of the work you did losing the weight. Huge returns here. We all get it, it's been said in every single weight-weenie thread in the world.

But there is a lot of enjoyment to be had in just fiddling with your equipment. To me, I know a lighter bike and lighter wheels don't make me actually go "faster" that I could actually measure (in fact, I've never measured route times other than within an approximate ~5 minute range.... I do measure "how well am I keeping up" and the differences there I measure in "embarrassingly far behind" vs. "not embarrassingly far behind" going up long climbs). 

But at my age, I just enjoy the gear. I enjoy finding and putting on high quality, lightweight parts and for the first time in my life I can do it and not "settle" (always happy to settle though, never had any resentment). The high quality, lightweight parts do feel "snappier" and "smoother" to me. Subjective. It's kind of nice just having top end parts, just because. The bike looks great. It really feels fun just to pick it up when I hang it in the garage, put it in the car, or just schlep it around.

So, aside from losing body weight and getting into better shape, the whole lightweight thing really has very little to do with actually going faster, but has a lot to do with enjoying the machine in addition to the riding. A fairly healthy and low-cost hobby, even at it's "worst" (compared to any hobby that involves internal combustion engines!).


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## SauronHimself

You also could take your bike to the Moon where it'll be 1/6 its weight on Earth.


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## spade2you

The listed bike weight is fine. There are very few people who can't lose more weight than they could buy for the bike. I'm one of the few who simply can't lose more weight. 



SauronHimself said:


> You also could take your bike to the Moon where it'll be 1/6 its weight on Earth.


What are you, God's gift to climbing?


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## MercRidnMike

Typetwelve...thanks for the inspiration. I'm the same height and and working on the same journey. 258# at the start of the year, 236# on the scale this morning and working hard to get back to my "fighting weight" (from when I was in uniform) of 180#.

OP, taking it off you is easier and cheaper than taking it off the bike. Working on the engine (losing weight, training to develop power and speed) will do more than anything you can do to the bike itself. If you have upgraditis, though, wheels are a good place to start as most stockers are tanks.


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## Kerry Irons

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Ok, since this is about the 3rd person in this thread quoting me, let's bring a few other things in-- I'm not climbing for hours, east coast hills some of what I'm referring to are small rises in the road, often coming off of a slight downhill. On my commute (which I use as a training ride) it's much easier to spin and hold my speed on those small rises with the lighter wheels than it is w/ the heavier ones. As for losing that speed once I get over the rise because the wheel is lighter...a 45mm enve rim vs a 27mm kinlin rim should have some aero properties that play in as well.


It doesn't make any difference if you're climbing for hours, the effect is the same. If you save 35 seconds per hour for a 450 gm weight reduction, then you save one second on a two minute climb. There is no reason why it should be "much easier to spin and hold my speed on those small rises " and in fact heavier wheels would help you hold your speed longer since they are carrying more kinetic energy at any given speed. Your bike may feel faster to you but weight alone is not giving you the performance improvements you claim.


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## cbk57

Personally I weight too much and have had a little too much wine. Therefore I would suggest the best way to reduce the bike is to get out your drill and go to town. The more holes the better. Very retro and extremely light.


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## stanseven

Camilo said:


> But for the bike and wheels.... Yea, yea, yea, losing body weight is cheaper and more important. It also means you're probably in better shape because of the work you did losing the weight. Huge returns here. We all get it, it's been said in every single weight-weenie thread in the world.
> 
> But there is a lot of enjoyment to be had in just fiddling with your equipment. To me, I know a lighter bike and lighter wheels don't make me actually go "faster" that I could actually measure (in fact, I've never measured route times other than within an approximate ~5 minute range.... I do measure "how well am I keeping up" and the differences there I measure in "embarrassingly far behind" vs. "not embarrassingly far behind" going up long climbs).
> 
> But at my age, I just enjoy the gear. I enjoy finding and putting on high quality, lightweight parts and for the first time in my life I can do it and not "settle" (always happy to settle though, never had any resentment). The high quality, lightweight parts do feel "snappier" and "smoother" to me. Subjective. It's kind of nice just having top end parts, just because. The bike looks great. It really feels fun just to pick it up when I hang it in the garage, put it in the car, or just schlep it around.
> 
> So, aside from losing body weight and getting into better shape, the whole lightweight thing really has very little to do with actually going faster, but has a lot to do with enjoying the machine in addition to the riding. A fairly healthy and low-cost hobby, even at it's "worst" (compared to any hobby that involves internal combustion engines!).


I completely agree. A new lighter weight bike won't make that much difference in absolute speed. But, at least for me, it gets me out there riding longer and harder than I would. My latest bike has light and deep aero wheels, Di2, and a very light frame. The entire bike weighs 14 lbs. Besides being proud and happy with it, I ride a lot and have fun.


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## Camilo

stanseven said:


> ... proud and happy with it, I ride a lot and have fun.


:thumbsup:


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## Kalel

I think the OP bought the wrong bike. Going faster has to do with the engineering aspects of the bike. Ask yourself was it built to go fast? This is the bike you should have bought:









To Answer your question, sell your bike and get a real bike: The S-Works Venge with Di2.


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## Camilo

Kalel said:


> I think the OP bought the wrong bike. Going faster has to do with the engineering aspects of the bike. Ask yourself was it built to go fast? This is the bike you should have bought:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To Answer your question, sell your bike and get a real bike: The S-Works Venge with Di2.


Well, that bike doesn't have nearly enough red paint on it to be fast, plus, how fast can you go without pedals?


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## Anant

Hey nolight,

Thanks for this suggestion, it is definitely helpful for me.


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## blitespeed

Camilo said:


> Well, that bike doesn't have nearly enough red paint on it to be fast, plus, how fast can you go without pedals?



Funny! Maybe on the moon this one would really go!


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## Ahanix

Typetwelve said:


> You and me both.
> 
> This time 2011 I was 265lbs (6' tall)...I started working out and by spring 2012 was down to 200lbs. I started riding a borrowed Roubaix and got down to 165 or so last season. During the winter I did what most do and bounced around a bit but I've managed to stay in the high 160s, low 170s range.
> 
> Now...I never rode at 265...but the difference between 200 and 165 was HUGE...the effort it takes to push a machine to 18-30 mph is vastly different when you drop 30 lbs. climbing? That's not even in the same ballpark...try strapping 30lbs over your body and go grind a local hill...it will seem impossible.
> 
> Ill carry 50lb bags or water softener salt down to my basement and think to myself "how in the heck was I carrying nearly two of these on my frame everywhere I went?" It almost seems unreal thinking back on it.



I can't believe how many of these experiences I was able to relate to when I first started cycling. I'm 6'2" and started riding at 235lbs on a 2012 Allez. Caught the upgrade bug quick and added some 1500g Fulcrums off a 2012 Tarmac and then came to the utter realization after reading that it's a lot easier to lose a few pounds than cut it off your bike. Last season I started eating right / smaller portions and riding between 20-25 miles every day / 5 days a week and quickly dropped down to 185. This winter I came back up to 195, but started riding again and now I'm sitting at 189 as of this morning. (I'm still paranoid about bike weight on my new Tarmac, but more conscious of my personal weight when riding) At this point, I know it's going to be a lot easier to get down to 175 than to cut weight off my bike, and I know I can't cut 15lbs off my bike without going running instead... and we're all here because we know running is only for criminals.


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## skitorski

The Title of this Sub Forum is Save Some Weight.


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## Natedogz

looigi said:


> Yep. I find losing body weight to make more a difference than losing bike weight. Less weight to support and move around on the bike, less weight on your butt and hands, more efficient heat dissipation...and that's in addition to not accelerating that weight or hauling up hills. My two full water bottles weigh 3.5 lbs and I certainly can't tell from the ride whether they're full or empty.


Very good points and there are many more here in this thread. I'm not fat and am in decent shape, but losing my cookie, milk, beer gut is the hardest thing to do. I usually eat well, but have cut out almost all cookies and milk at night for the past three weeks (lost about 3 lbs according to bathroom scale, I know not most accurate but it's what I use) but dang it's difficult. I love to eat. 

BTW, my 2011 Specialized Secteur Elite Compact weighs in at just over 21lbs with pedals and I love it. A little more bling would be nice, but I'd rather lose weight off my belly. I keep up just fine when riding with similar conditioned riders, no matter what bike they have. I still love the carbon Roubaix, but it will have to wait a few more years lol.


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## slitespd

kenken662 said:


> Hi, I got a 17.8 lb Focus bike and am disturbed by the weight... What would be the best way to make it lighter and faster (wheels, components, other stuff)? The wheels weigh 1900 g total.. And how noticeable is a few (1-2) extra pounds on your bike while climbing?


Disturbed by the weight? I ride a steel framed bike and like the ride for the ride not the weight. Just enjoy the ride. You'll get stronger over time and ride faster even with the weight.


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## Dave Cutter

Natedogz said:


> ..... losing my cookie, milk, beer gut is the hardest thing to do. I usually eat well, but have cut out almost all cookies and milk at night for the past three weeks (lost about 3 lbs according to bathroom scale, .... I love to eat.


It _IS_ hard to lose weight... and keeping the lost weight off isn't easy ether. I dropped over 70 pounds to get into my ideal BMI... and it made a HUGE difference with my cycling speed and endurance. 

I don't drink... so I don't have those cravings to deal with... but I can relate to the cookies. I also use to snack at night. The habit of snacking and/or drinking at night isn't good and a tough habit to break. Both/ether are poor dietary hygiene and disrupt normal sleep patterns among other things. 

I now count calories (I use a diet app called "Lose it!") and can schedule in any fun-treat by regulating both diet and amounts of exercise. So the occasional ice cream or pie is back. But I don't eat/snack after dinner. [_I think_] My body needs that fast period between dinner and breakfast.


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## Data_God

Lose 5 pounds of fat. Cheaper than throwing money at the bike.


Bill


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## Data_God

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


Totally unfair comparison. Tubulars always feel superior to clincher.

Bill


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## Charlie the Unicorn

Data_God said:


> Lose 5 pounds of fat. Cheaper than throwing money at the bike.
> 
> 
> Bill



Perhaps there's a forum better suited to such views.


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## Data_God

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Perhaps there's a forum better suited to such views.


 Save Some Weight
Best way to make bike lighter/faster?


Nope ...... This is the place. lol

Bill


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## Charlie the Unicorn

Data_God said:


> Save Some Weight
> Best way to make bike lighter/faster?
> 
> 
> Nope ...... This is the place. lol
> 
> 
> Bill


Lol, let's just use a little math here, hmmm, three equals d seems to work.


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## Mace2180

Mann is that a J's kit your wearing?

If you want easy "cheap" up grades go for aero dynamics. Most bike company's are changing to this. 
Things like race fit jersey, shoe covers. Drag is more important than weight. Won't help on climbing but it's what most don't think with speed.


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## zx9rmal

Charlie the Unicorn said:


> Disagree-- I just switched from my 1430g alloy clinchers to my 990g carbon tubulars and boy did I feel a difference.


What wheelset are those carbon tubulars? That's sick light. I'm envious.


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## zx9rmal

Fireform said:


> I lost 35 pounds last year. My bike climbs a lot better now.


I weigh 135 lbs. I can't lose 35 lbs. So I bought wheels.


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## NJBiker72

zx9rmal said:


> I weigh 135 lbs. I can't lose 35 lbs. So I bought wheels.


35 pound wheels? Wow. No broken spokes on thise babies!


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