# New SL-1 and creaking frame?



## groundhog1248 (Oct 1, 2009)

I've had my Fuji SL-1 for about 3 weeks now. Rides great. Love the bike except for the creaking sound I get when I'm pedaling. At first I thought it was the crank/BB but now know it's in the back of the bike. The rear derailluer hanger is attached to the frame where the wheel gets attached by the skewer. Not sure if the exact name of that location. There is 2 little screws that hold it in place. While they weren't loose they could be turned so I tightened them. Last night was my first ride and for the first 8 miles no creaking. Than it felt like someone flipped the switch and the creaking came back. Do I have a defective frame or something else i can check? Could the wheelset be bad or cassette? I checked both of them and nothing seems wrong. Maybe there is something else I can check. I got the bike at Performance. SRAM Red with the Assualt wheel set. Sharp looking bike.

Anyone else experience the creaking with this bike? Thanks


----------



## William43 (Dec 18, 2007)

While I dont have that Fuji, I do have a Team-pic under separate thread. I would lube the chain ring bolts and tighten those. I would definitely lube the QR skewers as well as the front and rear drop out contact points and wheel contact points and make certain the QR are tight. I would not mess with the screws. Lube the wheels and drop outs 1st. If you are like me and wash your bike often, lube in the drop outs tend to get washed away. That should do the trick. Keep us posted. 

By the way-thoe SL1s at Performance cannot be beat. With the ultegra build, it is the best bang for the buck, hands down. Once the newer version comes out after the 1st of the year, I bet the price will drop even more.


----------



## youngblud (Aug 11, 2007)

I have an SL-1 and I had creaking noise as well, but it was coming from the front. The noise came from the headset, I just tightened it down and the noise went away. If you're getting creaks each time you pedal, it could be the bottom bracket. Just grease it and it should go away. If it's coming from the back, check if your rear wheel is set straight or aligned correctly and adjust your derailleur.


----------



## groundhog1248 (Oct 1, 2009)

Yes, I couldn't pass up the deal I got for mine. MSRP was $7600 and I got it out the door for $4500 plus a $450 in store credit. I don't think the bike was worth anywhere near that $7600.

I did switch the cranks and after that is when I noticed the creaking sound. I went to a compact crank. I shortened the chain 2 links. Do you think that has anything to do with the probems Im having now with the noise? I have no problems with shifting. The creaking is really only noticeable when I'm using the middle 4 sprockets on the back. If I'm in the 3 biggest it really takes alot of effort to get it to creak. 

I do wish I would have gotten the Dura-ace groupo now instead of the SRAM Red.

Thanks


----------



## youngblud (Aug 11, 2007)

I also have the red gruppo and had noise coming from the bottom bracket. Some dirt might have gotten into the BB when you changed out the crank. Try applying some grease to the BB bearing. You'll need to take off the plastic sleeve and apply the grease there. Clean the sleeve and the crank arm before putting them all back together. If you have ceramic BB, you should use a grease recommended for it.

I think the SRAM Red requires more maintenance then Dura-Ace, but so far I'm really happy with the Red over both the 7800 and 7900 gruppo. 

Another thing with SRAM Red is noise. You'll hear more noise than you should compare to Shimano's group.

If all else fail, take it back to Performance. They should be able to help.

Hopefull that helps. G-Luck!


----------



## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Since you didn't have the noise BEFORE the crank swap, and now have the noise AFTER the crank swap. I would have to use a little common sense in saying, YES, the swap probably caused the creaking to rear its ugly head. 

When you swapped out to the compact crank set, did you swap out the BB? 

If you did, did you have the BB shell chased and faced? 

If not did you make sure that everything was clean and greased when installed?

Did you check your chainring bolts?

Did you make sure the left crank arm was tightened down to the proper torque specs with a torque wrench?

Its also possible that the BB shell needs faced. I've had a few bikes come back with creaking that needed the shell faced. 

Make sure that your rear skewer is tight. Customer had a creak under power. Found a bend rear skewer that didn't apply proper pressure to prevent any noise under power.

It could be a number of things, as you can see.


BTW, SRAM takes more to get the initial proper adjustment. Once its dialed in, you don't have to worry about adjustments unless something is broken/bent/damaged.

Shimano OTOH always seems to require a barrel adjustment every so often. 

I'm switching out my Shimano stuff for 2010 SRAM Force. Love my SRAM X9/X7 stuff on my MTB and only had to play with the adjustment 4 times in the past 2 years.


BTW, I am the lead tech at the Performance shop in Delaware. If you have a concern, I can try and help out. But you might have to stop in your local store to get them to fix the issue.


----------



## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

Are you sure it's the crank? Sometimes a loose seatpost or loose cleat can cause it to sound like a creaky crank.


----------



## tgeen (Oct 2, 2009)

I'm not sure about the rear triangle on the SL-1, but I have a Fuji Team and the seat stay and chain stay tubes are bolted together. The drive side bolt (just above the derailleur hanger) was just loose enough to allow flexing under load and cause an extremely annoying creak where the alloy parts rubbed together. It was hard to track down because it had all the symptoms of a drivetrain problem. Took it apart, greased everything where metal touched metal, problem gone.


----------



## ssing20 (Aug 1, 2007)

*same here*



tgeen said:


> I'm not sure about the rear triangle on the SL-1, but I have a Fuji Team and the seat stay and chain stay tubes are bolted together. The drive side bolt (just above the derailleur hanger) was just loose enough to allow flexing under load and cause an extremely annoying creak where the alloy parts rubbed together. It was hard to track down because it had all the symptoms of a drivetrain problem. Took it apart, greased everything where metal touched metal, problem gone.


I had the same problem on my 08 Team frame. Had to tighten the rear frame bolt (and used Loctite). problem gone. Originally, I thought it was a rear hub problem.


----------



## tgeen (Oct 2, 2009)

I thought about using Locktite but I didn't have any on hand, so I just greased everything and screwed it back together. Is there a risk of that bolt backing out without Locktite?


----------



## chadjodi (Nov 27, 2006)

I also have a 2009 sl1 red. I have the same problem no noise until about 3-5 miles into the ride. i have tried every bb fix to no avail. frame looks fine, reset seat post, lubed rail etc. no better tried different cranks wheels, pedals, same problem.

loud music is the only fix i have found. Definitely a frame problem.


----------



## ssing20 (Aug 1, 2007)

tgeen said:


> I thought about using Locktite but I didn't have any on hand, so I just greased everything and screwed it back together. Is there a risk of that bolt backing out without Locktite?


Can't hurt to use locktite. My LBS recommended it. Do you use an indoor trainer w/ this bike? I put mine on my trainer a few times and that may have contributed. I use another bike on my trainer now.


----------



## tgeen (Oct 2, 2009)

No, never used it with a trainer. This is my first carbon frame bike, so I'm not sure if the rear triangle bolt is a common practice, or just a Fuji thing. But every other bike I've owned or ridden has a continuous, one-piece construction back there. Maybe it should be called a semi-monocoque. Two local bike shops that deal in Fujis were unable to fix the creak, so I'm guessing it may be an uncommon design and not on anyone's list of the usual places to look for squeaks and creaks.


----------



## lueckbullet (Aug 20, 2009)

*Creaking Sound*



groundhog1248 said:


> I've had my Fuji SL-1 for about 3 weeks now. Rides great. Love the bike except for the creaking sound I get when I'm pedaling. At first I thought it was the crank/BB but now know it's in the back of the bike. The rear derailluer hanger is attached to the frame where the wheel gets attached by the skewer. Not sure if the exact name of that location. There is 2 little screws that hold it in place. While they weren't loose they could be turned so I tightened them. Last night was my first ride and for the first 8 miles no creaking. Than it felt like someone flipped the switch and the creaking came back. Do I have a defective frame or something else i can check? Could the wheelset be bad or cassette? I checked both of them and nothing seems wrong. Maybe there is something else I can check. I got the bike at Performance. SRAM Red with the Assualt wheel set. Sharp looking bike.
> 
> Anyone else experience the creaking with this bike? Thanks



Check the seat post area that happend to mine and i had a crack where the seat post gets incerted fuji replace the frame for me. they were great to work with a lot better than most bike companys.


----------



## jkretsch (Aug 30, 2004)

Wow, it's great to find this thread. I'm having the same creaking problem with my '06 Team RC I've taken the bottom bracket apart several times & relubed, I cleaned and lubed the headset, the rear wheel axle, the pedal axles, the seatpost collar. Still can't get rid of the creaking. I'll try the bolts that hold the rear triangle together next.


----------

