# DT Swiss R450 vs. R465



## QuattroCreep (Nov 30, 2009)

I'm building a set of wheels to train on and wanted to know is there a reason to choose one rim over the other?

R450 is a little lighter, less expensive.
R465 has the double eyelets and welded joint.

The rest of the build will be: 
Ulterga Hubs 
32 spoke f/r
3x f/r 
DT swiss comp spokes 
alloy nipples


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

The RR465 is a great training rim. I don't use the R450 and cannot comment on it. I would guess the RR465 is more durable. If you want to save money, I would recommend to use RR465 rims and Shimano 105 hubs.

Here are pictures of what it will look like:
https://s975.photobucket.com/albums/ae237/pweiss/Shimano%206700%20RR465/


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## helios (Jul 22, 2010)

Bump.
I'm interested in this rim dilemma as well. I can get a sweet deal on a PT SL+ laced to a R 450. Is the lack of eyelets a deal breaker?


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## Fogdweller (Mar 26, 2004)

I love the rr1.1 which morphed into the 465. I have two sets, one on dt240s at 28h and another on King Classics at 32h. I commute about 160 miles a week on the Kings and haven't trued them in two years. That would be my recommendation.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

I built my powertap wheelset around the 465 with 240s front hub and pro+ rear hub.

Should have it by the end of the weekend.

That being said, the 465 is very similar to the RR1.1 double eyelet model. Extremely durable, not horribly heavy.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

robdamanii said:


> I built my powertap wheelset around the 465 with 240s front hub and pro+ rear hub.
> 
> Should have it by the end of the weekend.
> 
> That being said, the 465 is very similar to the RR1.1 double eyelet model. Extremely durable, not horribly heavy.


The RR1.1 double eyelet is the same as the RR465. My Powertap setup is the same, including the 240S front hub, except for an RR415 front rim. In the world of low profile eyeletted rims, the RR465 is one of the best.


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## strathconaman (Jul 3, 2003)

If you are building a high millage wheel, the 465 is probably the best rim out there. I would use the 450 in situations where you could expect a lot of wear on the rim, and the brake track will wear out before the spokes will pull through the rim.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

valleycyclist said:


> The RR1.1 double eyelet is the same as the RR465. My Powertap setup is the same, including the 240S front hub, except for an RR415 front rim. In the world of low profile eyeletted rims, the RR465 is one of the best.


Ahh, nice. I didn't realize it was the exact same rim.

For some reason I thought it was a slightly taller profile.


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## QuattroCreep (Nov 30, 2009)

Wow, thread sat long enough that I made my choice, bought parts, built the wheels, and have a few rides on them already.

@Valleycyclist-The R415 was my first choice of rim. My supplier only stocks the R415 in 28h and Ulterga Hubs in 32h. Switching to a different rim was cheaper then going with DA or DT Swiss hubs to use the 28h rims. My goal was to keep the build under $300.

I went with the R465 (R1.1) because of the eyelets. I felt the weight and extra cost was worth it for a set of wheels I am going to put some miles on.

Final build was:

DT Swiss R465 32h f/r
Shimano Ulterga Hubs 6600
DT Swiss comp spokes
3x f/r
brass nipples


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## mattotoole (Jan 3, 2008)

QuattroCreep said:


> Final build was:
> 
> DT Swiss R465 32h f/r
> Shimano Ulterga Hubs 6600
> ...


I think that will be my next set too.


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## RussellS (Feb 1, 2010)

I built a front wheel with the DT R465 rim. Wonderful build. Rim stayed round throughout the build. No tightening the spokes on one spot to get the rim round. Eyelets are nice, spread the tension to both rim surfaces.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

QuattroCreep said:


> Wow, thread sat long enough that I made my choice, bought parts, built the wheels, and have a few rides on them already.
> 
> @Valleycyclist-The R415 was my first choice of rim. My supplier only stocks the R415 in 28h and Ulterga Hubs in 32h. Switching to a different rim was cheaper then going with DA or DT Swiss hubs to use the 28h rims. My goal was to keep the build under $300.
> 
> ...


Good choice.

I'm going to be building a set of R465s with DT 240 hubs (28 hole) for a customer soon. The double eyelets will make the build much easier. She wants reasonably light, comfortable, bombproof wheels. I think that's about the best combination out there.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> Good choice.
> 
> I'm going to be building a set of R465s with DT 240 hubs (28 hole) for a customer soon. The double eyelets will make the build much easier. She wants reasonably light, comfortable, bombproof wheels. I think that's about the best combination out there.


Absolutely.

I've abused the sh*t out of my Mon Chasserals, and they're as straight as an arrow still...


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

I haven't noticed that eyelets make the build any easier, and they don't inherently make the wheel stronger either. You have to evaluate each rim on it's merits and history. The 465 is a good solid rim. The 450 is a new cheaper model (probably a different alloy) and it's durability is unknown.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

rruff said:


> I haven't noticed that eyelets make the build any easier, and they don't inherently make the wheel stronger either. You have to evaluate each rim on it's merits and history. The 465 is a good solid rim. The 450 is a new cheaper model (probably a different alloy) and it's durability is unknown.


Really? So it's not easier being able to just drop the nipple into the hole without worrying about it rattling around in the rim?

I think I disagree....


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## QuattroCreep (Nov 30, 2009)

I will agree with others that have said the R465 build up easily. The wheels came together very quickly and were a pleasure to build. 

After putting some miles on the wheels I am very happy with them. I won't get to really put them to the test until spring when the local Thursday night crit gets going again.This is the second set of 32h 3x wheels I have built for myself. Both times I have ended up with wheels that I feel ride and perform far better then I thought they would.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

I always use a simple tool... spoke bent into a question mark, with a nipple threaded part way on and frozen in place. I never drop a nipple and this makes sure that they are all threaded on the same amount.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

needs


rruff said:


> I always use a simple tool... spoke bent into a question mark, with a nipple threaded part way on and frozen in place. I never drop a nipple and this makes sure that they are all threaded on the same amount.


And when I can, I prefer to drop them in the eyeleted hole and use my nice Bicycle Research nipple driver that doesn't require me to thread each nipple on and then unthread it.

Time is money, and all that. Wheel building doesn't pay crap anymore, thanks to all of the cheap sellers online. So, I need to build them and move on with my day. I don't have time to introduce myself to each and every nipple I touch. (c()de)

BTW, it makes absolutely no difference if they're "threaded on the same amount", since you have to dish, tension, and true the wheel anyway. Thinking that each nipple needs to be threaded on the same amount doesn't take into account the variables of each spoke or any slight variance in the rim. It's a complete waste of time.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> I don't have time to introduce myself to each and every nipple I touch.


To each their own I guess. I do spend a lot of time with all those little parts.


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