# upgrade or get a new bike?



## lowendrick (Oct 5, 2009)

I have an '01 Cannondale R800. I have many years of mtb experience and just began more serious road riding over the last year. I have trained for mtb races but not road events. I plan to do a century sometime next year with my brothers who are tri-athletes. I am 48 years old. 5'7" and about 158 lbs. I am in decent shape having trained the last 2 years for mtb events.

My bike is fine for the most part. I bought it used from a friend at a very good price. Its a 54cm and my LBS said I should probably be on a 52cm, but they were certain they could fit it for me which they did. I mostly do rides between 20 to 25 miles and its fairly comfortable. I wonder if it will continue to be comfortable as I increase the miles. I also wonder if I will be at a disadvantage trying to keep up with my brothers just from the bike alone (never mind the fitness level). Should I be thinking of upgrading parts on this bike or is it worth considering a new bike. Or just leave well enough alone? 

Other factors include shoes; I continue to wear my cheap sixsixone mtb shoes clipped into spd pedals to road bike. I probably want dedicated road shoes, right?
Also, I have a bad disc in my neck and 3 bad discs in my lower back. I keep it all in check very effectively by hitting the gym 3 days week with specific exercises. But longer rides might aggravate these bad discs making me think I need a more relaxed geo. Opinions?

thanks in advance...


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

I think your MTB shoes and SPD pedals will work just fine. Quite a few roadies wear MTB shoes for easier walking around at a rest stop or on a tour, and like the SPD pedals for dual-sided entry.

I'm 59. I'm 6'2" and weigh around 165. I do centuries comfortably on a fairly aggressive geometry bike (GT GTR series). Proper fit is at least half the battle. If your shop set you up, it's a good start. I wouldn't think about a new bike until you've done some 50 milers, and find that your back starts to hurt a couple of hours into it. Pain in other areas (like numb hands, or shoulder pain) tends to manifest itself fairly early in the ride, and is often a function of a death grip on the bars, not bending one's elbows, or tension from fighting a head wind---it's a natural reaction for some newer riders to tighten up when they're fearful of control issues. If the shop fit you correctly, your riding position, in and of itself, shouldn't be placing excessive weight on your hands.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

lowendrick said:


> My bike is fine for the most part.....
> 
> I mostly do rides between 20 to 25 miles and its fairly comfortable. I wonder if it will continue to be comfortable as I increase the miles.


If you don't know if/why/what you need to upgrade, then you probably don't need to upgrade. Put more miles on the bike. Get your riding distance up to 40-50mi. You'll have a much better idea of if/why/what you may want to change. 
20-25mi isn't that far. Most people can comfortably ride that distance on any bike without discomfort.


> I also wonder if I will be at a disadvantage trying to keep up with my brothers just from the bike alone (never mind the fitness level).


No you won't. Worry more about the engine. It'll be the major factor in you keeping up. Don't count on the bike making you faster.


> Other factors include shoes; I continue to wear my cheap sixsixone mtb shoes clipped into spd pedals to road bike. I probably want dedicated road shoes, right?


Nothing wrong with using MTB pedals/shoes on a road bike. Many of us do. Easier to walk in and conveineint to have interchangeability between bikes.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

As others have said, you don't need a better bike, or different shoes, or any other change in equipment to do what you want to do.

If you're concerned about comfort on longer rides, one cheap and easy change is larger tires and lower pressure. If the bike has 23mm tires now (likely), changing to 25 and dropping the pressure could make a big difference. At your weight you could probably go to 90 front and 95 rear and still avoid pinch flats. Maybe a little lower if your roads are good and you ride gently (avoid potholes and absorb bumps with your legs and arms).


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## lowendrick (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. Guess I needed a little help with my gear-acquisition-syndrome (G.A.S.)

I have 26mm tires on right now. I have two wheel sets. One has 23mm for spring, summer and early fall. The other set has 26mm for rougher roads, sand, salt and loose blacktop.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

lowendrick said:


> Thanks for the replies. Guess I needed a little help with my gear-acquisition-syndrome (G.A.S.)
> 
> I have 26mm tires on right now. I have two wheel sets. One has 23mm for spring, summer and early fall. The other set has 26mm for rougher roads, sand, salt and loose blacktop.


You're way ahead of me. 

You might try, next Spring, leaving the fatter tires on for the warm season. They might be more comfortable, they might not be slower, and they might even be faster because of more confident cornering. Of course, those are probably on the heavy wheels, so you'd have to swap tires to do a real test.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I ride with MTB shoes and SPD pedals - but the pedals aren't really MTB pedals. My road bike is a more comfortable position than my dual sport. The dual sport put more weight on my hands which made them start getting numb around 30 miles. Like was said, when you get the miles into the 40 and up range you'll have a better idea if your current ride will work for you.


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## lowendrick (Oct 5, 2009)

I rode 30 miles yesterday. 1hr47m, 14.8mph avg, Zone 3 for 1:17, 153 HR avg. Slightly hilly route. 

It didn't feel like I was pushing too hard. Made sure to not grip too hard or hold tension in my shoulders and neck. But the neck area definitely started to burn just over 20 miles. And today it continues to burn mildly.

I think I should head back into the shop for a tweaking of the fit. Looking into adding additional neck exercises also.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

The cycling comfort issue you're not going to know till you put on more miles, so why consider getting a new bike if you don't even know if the current bike will be uncomfortable? 

The neck problem is more due to you being used to riding a MTB and not a road bike, after some time is spent on a road bike your neck will adjust, in the meantime you can raise your handlebars more then as you get accustom to that then very slowly lower the bars over a period of time so you can adjust to lower bar height with less discomfort. And of course do the neck exercises.

I would wait on the new bike idea until you been riding this one for a year...unless you just simply have the bug to get a new bike.


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## dlhuillier (May 31, 2007)

A new bike is in order


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