# Side By Side Comparison of the Tarmacs?



## TrekUser777 (Jul 5, 2010)

All, I am thinking of bridging the gap and going over to a Specialized. I can't find much out there for a side by side comparison of the differences between the Tarmac SL3, Pro, and Expert. Where would I find such a thing if it existed?

Thank you in advance!


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## NealH (May 2, 2004)

Unfortunately Specialized, and many other bike companies, do a poor job of marketing when it comes to communicating ride and performance characteristics of the various iterations of their models. About the only place you can get this is on these type forums, where some people, bike shop employees in particular, have ridden them and are eager to comment. 

I suspect that, in general, if you are not a cat 1 or 2 power racer then you're not going to notice much if any difference. The SL3 will be the stiffest but, unless you lay the power down its highly unlikely you will notice a difference. The SL3 should feel just a hint more lively than the Expert, but I have not ridden the Expert. Sometimes the lesser models, being a bit less stiff, may actually ride better. I think the biggest difference will be the all up weight, since the lower models generally have lesser equipment which will weigh more - though not necessarily perform at a lower level. 

Having said that, I am assuming all three of the bikes that you mention are using the same geometrical construction, but just different carbon layup. If one is actually the older SL2 construction, then it will ride a little different. I found the SL2 to be a bit harsher than the SL3, mainly in the rear triangle, and just a bit less stiff in the bottom bracket. I owned both.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

You don't specify exactly _what _differences you're interested in. If it's CF grade, Spec (like Trek) has its own nomenclature. 8r, 10r... and the same goes for methods of construction - FACT IS, as one example.

If you're to buy into the marketing hype, the higher you go (in price/ model) the stiffer yet more compiant the ride qualities are. IMO/E, that's highly subjective and influenced by a number of factors, so my advice is that while it's certainly advantageous to become an educated consumer, temper how much others impressions dictate your decision. I've read reviews that contradicted each other, and they were from the same bike mag. 

Ride and decide is my best advice re: ride/ handling qualities, because there are enough variables (fit, rider weight, fitness, cycling background, preferences, types of riding/ road conditions, wheels, tires/ PSI) to render opinions near useless.


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## tanner3155 (Apr 5, 2008)

PJ352 said:


> You don't specify exactly _what _differences you're interested in. If it's CF grade, Spec (like Trek) has its own nomenclature. 8r, 10r... and the same goes for methods of construction - FACT IS, as one example.
> 
> If you're to buy into the marketing hype, the higher you go (in price/ model) the stiffer yet more compiant the ride qualities are. IMO/E, that's highly subjective and influenced by a number of factors, so my advice is that while it's certainly advantageous to become an educated consumer, temper how much others impressions dictate your decision. I've read reviews that contradicted each other, and they were from the same bike mag.
> 
> Ride and decide is my best advice re: ride/ handling qualities, because there are enough variables (fit, rider weight, fitness, cycling background, preferences, types of riding/ road conditions, wheels, tires/ PSI) to render opinions near useless.


When I was researching what to buy, I rode my lbs owners S-Works tarmac with Campy. It was very stiff and compliant, but the Campy seemed to take a lot of effort to shift and I wasn't used to the thumb shifters. When I ended up buying my Tarmac Expert, the new Ultegra also seemed to take an effort to shift but I liked it cause I was used to my old Dura ace. The stiffness and compliance seemed almost identical. I'm not a CAT anything but I ride a lot. So PJ is correct IMO about how only a CAT 1 or 2 might notice any difference. I love my frame so much that I'll just change out components from here on out.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> I think the biggest difference will be the all up weight, since the lower models generally have lesser equipment which will weigh more - though not necessarily perform at a lower level.


Oddly, while this is usually the case, it doesn't really hold true for 2011. Depending on your preferred groupo, you can get a Pro that weighs very close to the S-Works. Of course the ultimate weight-weenie bike will still be built on the S-Works. 

Anyways, for example, the Dura Ace S-Works SL3 and Pro SL3 both weigh about 15.2 lbs:

http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/07/16/2011-specialized-road-triathlon-cyclocross-bikes-actual-weights/


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## bikeosprey (Sep 20, 2008)

I have had a 2010 Pro and went to a 2010 SL2, the ride was more compliant and BB stiffer but only by a small amount, maybe 10%. Ridding back to back I could feel the improvement in the SL2, but after owning the SL2 for a while, the memory forgets the difference. Go for the highest you can afford, IMO Specialized does good testing and each higher one is slightly better.


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## bn_acyclists (Mar 12, 2004)

*my 2 cents*

Like one poster said, "unless you lay down the big watts", I don't think you will be able to tell the diffrence.
I just went from the 09 Pro SL to an 011 SL3.
I've only got one ride on the new bike (1.5 years on the old) but there is only a small amount of diffrence between the two.
1. 145 grams lighter. (white Saxo Bank vs. white Pro SL)
2. The SL3 is a small bit smother in the chatter (chip/seal).
FWIW 
1300 Watts Max Bursts.
4.0W per KG @ LT.
Regular 350 to 450 Watt bursts.
These bike were designed for double that!


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