# Converting from 7 speed to 10 speed



## RussellS (Feb 1, 2010)

I have a 1991 Trek 520 touring bike. It has Deore DX hubs and 7 speed cassette. I am trying to convert it to 10 speed cassette. I ordered a SRAM 1050 11-32 10 speed cassette. But only 9 of the cogs/spacers fit on the old freehub body. There is no room for the last cog. Did freehub bodies get longer in the changeover from 7 to 10 speeds? Can I get a new 10 speed body for an old Deore hub?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Yes, they got larger between 6/7 and 8/9/10. You can replace the freehub body by rebuilding the hub.

Or, buy a new wheel.


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## LC (Jan 28, 2004)

Went from 126 to 130 rear spacing when they added that 8th gear so your frame will have to be reset too. 

You could also just leave out 1 cog and use 9 :idea: 
I used to do this by using 8 out of 9 cogs on a 7 speed frame and it worked fine, so it should work using 9 out of 10 also. Set the limit screws on the rear der so it will not allow the last gear to be used.


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

LC said:


> Went from 126 to 130 rear spacing when they added that 8th gear so your frame will have to be reset too.


Wow, that sucks. I'm looking into upgrading my brother's bike (of and on project). So basically I can only take it from a 6 speed to a 7 speed without taking it to a frame shop (in which case it would probably be cheaper to find an old steel 8/9 speed).


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

LC said:


> Went from 126 to 130 rear spacing when they added that 8th gear so your frame will have to be reset too.
> 
> You could also just leave out 1 cog and use 9 :idea:
> I used to do this by using 8 out of 9 cogs on a 7 speed frame and it worked fine, so it should work using 9 out of 10 also. Set the limit screws on the rear der so it will not allow the last gear to be used.


While this often true, it might not be the case. My 1989 Trek 1400 I used to own came with Shimano 105 SIS 7 speed hyperglide. Shops were telling me that it couldn't be done without even looking at it due to it being an aluminum frame. I went to a Performance Bike shop and they told me that it could be done. Other shops told me that Performance was wrong and that my bike had 126. I found a really good shop that sold mostly Italian steeds. They told me to bring it in. I did and we discovered that even my 7 speed 1989Trek had 130 spacing. This was done back in 2003. Of course 10 speed wasn't out yet but the clearance is the same. To add the extra gear, the cogs are just closer. To the OP, what made you want 10 speed on a touring bike. You would do better with a 9 speed MTB set up IMO. It would save you money and you could still use 10 speed STI shifters with it if you wanted to.


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## durielk (Jan 8, 2011)

..... Time for a new BIKE..... Help the economy


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

People aren't reading. He said he has 7 speed Deore DX hubs, which were 130 spacing back then. With a new freehub he _may_ have to respace to 135, but maybe not. If he gets an 8/9/10 rear wheel it will be 130.

In any case, spreading the rear dropouts is not a big deal. You can reset them, or just flex them open and leave it be. It's only 2mm per side. Trek used to sell it's aluminum frames with 126 spacing and DA 8 speed kits. A steel 520 frame is not going to be damaged by flexing the dropouts open.

Let's not make this more complicated than it has to be.


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

rx-79g said:


> People aren't reading. He said he has 7 speed Deore DX hubs, which were 130 spacing back then. With a new freehub he _may_ have to respace to 135, but maybe not. If he gets an 8/9/10 rear wheel it will be 130.
> 
> In any case, spreading the rear dropouts is not a big deal. You can reset them, or just flex them open and leave it be. It's only 2mm per side. Trek used to sell it's aluminum frames with 126 spacing and DA 8 speed kits. A steel 520 frame is not going to be damaged by flexing the dropouts open.
> 
> Let's not make this more complicated than it has to be.


So you mean like just drop the wheel in and force the rear dropouts into the new position?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

AJL said:


> So you mean like just drop the wheel in and force the rear dropouts into the new position?


Yup. That's how the first Dura Ace 8 speed was designed, even. It isn't a problem, with metal frames, anyway.


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## RussellS (Feb 1, 2010)

I mentioned 1991 Trek 520. The bike started out as that. But I have replaced every part except the rear wheel, bar end shifters, and crank arms in the intervening years. The frame is now a Redline Conquest Tour. Aluminum frame/fork with 130mm rear spacing. Redline decided to make a touring frame with their cyclocross frame and left the rear spacing as road. My 1991 Trek 520 started life with 135mm spacing. Deore DX mountain bike hubs. I converted it to 130mm spacing by simply removing a couple spacers from the axle. The rear dropouts are thick enough to accomodate the extra length of axle sticking out.

So it appears replacing the freehub body will solve my problem. Online the freehub bodies are about $30. Will this require the wheel to be redished? I'll think about using 9 of 10 cogs. But for $30 might as well change the freehub body.

As for going to 10 speed on the touring bike... I know I could get 9 speed bar end shifters. $80 for the shifters, $25 cassette, $30 freehub body. But I was itching to go the brake shifter route instead of bar ends. Older 9 speed STI has the cables coming out the side of the lever. Incompatible with a handlebar bag. The newest STI 10 speed have the cables under the tape. Works with a handlebar bag. So $200 for 105 5703 shifters, $50 cassette, $30 freehub body. Double the cost but still reasonable.

When I'm done the only thing left from the original touring bike will be the crank arms and most of the rear wheel.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

RussellS said:


> I mentioned 1991 Trek 520. The bike started out as that. But I have replaced every part except the rear wheel, bar end shifters, and crank arms in the intervening years. The frame is now a Redline Conquest Tour. Aluminum frame/fork with 130mm rear spacing. Redline decided to make a touring frame with their cyclocross frame and left the rear spacing as road. My 1991 Trek 520 started life with 135mm spacing. Deore DX mountain bike hubs. I converted it to 130mm spacing by simply removing a couple spacers from the axle. The rear dropouts are thick enough to accomodate the extra length of axle sticking out.
> 
> So it appears replacing the freehub body will solve my problem. Online the freehub bodies are about $30. Will this require the wheel to be redished? I'll think about using 9 of 10 cogs. But for $30 might as well change the freehub body.
> 
> ...


If you can find a trashed 8/9/10 speed wheel with a real shimano hub (even the cheapy MTB models) behind the local LBS, cannibalize that for the freehub - they're all the same.

For STI on a budget, the Nashbar Microshift 10 speed shifters for $130 on sale are really nice.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

durielk said:


> ..... Time for a new BIKE..... Help the economy




yeah, you're in danger of falling into the black hole of buying bit after bit, trying to make it work as you slowly find out that new things are not always compatible w/ old... might be quicker and less painful to just start from scratch w/ a new bike (or forget the upgrading altogether and replace worn bits w/ nos stuff)


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