# Is there a reason why barcon shifters...



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

have the cables routed the way they do? I would prefer a cleaner look and I'm thinking about routing the cables under the bar tape all the way to where it ends near the stem.

Is there a reason I shouldn't try this?


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

The reason usually given for routing the cable forward straight-out then bending it back to the down tube cable guides instead of carrying it under the bar wrap to the stem, then to the cable guides, is that the extra cable-to-housing friction from the multiple tight turns generates sluggish shifting. I've tried the under bar wrap shifter to stem cable routing using Campy low friction cables and housing, and haven't noticed any difference in the way the RD and FD shift.


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## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

that is the answer I'm looking for

thanks


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## PomPilot (May 17, 2006)

If it's any help, I routed the cables under the bar wrap on my frankenbike as well. So far, no problems. And I used the cheap Inline cable & housings. (Ok, I had to resort to an extra long Shimano cable for the RD. But that was because the Inline was 3 inches too short  ).


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## ccroy2001 (May 20, 2002)

I wondered about this when I saw some photos of old British racers. Many had Barcons and cables taped under the bar tape. 

It looked really good, especially with non aero brake levers as there wasn't cables everywhere.

My only Barcon bike has been converted to upright bars so I never got around to trying it. Campy and SRAM run their cables under the tape and work OK, so why not Barcons? 

Chris


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## lousylegs (Jul 15, 2005)

I did it with friction shifting before and did not notice any negative affects. For indexed though, I don't know. The reason I didn't do it when I switched the shifters to a different bike was that I didn't have a RD cable that was long enough and did not feel like buying one.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

Scooper said:


> 've tried the under bar wrap shifter to stem cable routing using Campy low friction cables and housing, and haven't noticed any difference in the way the RD and FD shift.


same here but used Shimano Dura Ace cabling. If you come up short in length look at tandem cable.


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## BLUEMEANIE (Mar 16, 2009)

I have the cables from my bar-end shifters on my touring bike routed under the tape and I haven't noticed any ill effects. Shifts the same as when I had em routed the other way.


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## Ronsonic (Nov 11, 2004)

The convention of forming that big loop of cable goes back to the old days of fairly primitive cables and housing. Modern shifter cable is far more forgiving and much lower friction.


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## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

I see some new shifter cable in my future.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*here you go...*



bane said:


> I see some new shifter cable in my future.


 set up like campy ergo/sti


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

Somebody posted pics on "Commuting and Ride Reports" about a year ago from an internal routing. I don`t remember who it was, but he had drilled his bars and routed the cables inside. Looked nice and I might have tried it but I got a little squeemish thiking about the holes.

FWIW, I have two bikes with bar end shifters routed under the tape and one the "regular" routing. For some reason, one of the "under the tape" bikes works fine and on the other I have to give the lever an extra little tug to get it to shift from small to big. Similar bars on both bikes and both with indexed right shifters, but one the easy one is seven speed and the finicky one is eight speed. I`m still not going to change it- I just give it the extra tug that it wants. The "regular" routed bike is fairly new to me and it has some shifting issues that I`m still trying to work out- something is sticky somewhere and I don`t want to complicate matters by rerouting under the tape until I get it figured out (or give up and take it to a shop).


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

rodar y rodar said:


> Somebody posted pics on "Commuting and Ride Reports" about a year ago from an internal routing. I don`t remember who it was, but he had drilled his bars and routed the cables inside. Looked nice and I might have tried it but I got a little squeemish thiking about the holes.


That was me.


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## mtnbke (Jun 2, 2009)

bane said:


> have the cables routed the way they do? I would prefer a cleaner look and I'm thinking about routing the cables under the bar tape all the way to where it ends near the stem.
> 
> Is there a reason I shouldn't try this?


Nope. 

On my tandem where I use a classic brake lever (left lever/front brake), an integrated lever (rear derailleur/rear brake), and two barends (front derailleur trim and drag brake), I route the barcon cables under the bar tape. 

What a mess of cables I'd have if I didn't and used a non-Aero brake lever, huh?

However, barends are always a bit pricy because of touring and cyclocross demand. If you want to try something more interesting you could use Kelly Take-Offs or use downtube shifters in a bar end pod:










Downtube shifters as bar ends


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

mtnbke said:


> However, barends are always a bit pricy because of touring and cyclocross demand. If you want to try something more interesting you could use Kelly Take-Offs or use downtube shifters in a bar end pod:


Huh? They`re much cheaper than STI and even cheaper than many mtb shifters. DT shifters do cost slightly less, but by the time you add in the cost of Take-Offs or those bar end mounts for DTs you`d be up to a good bit more than the price of regular Shimano bar ends.

I`m thinking about a new routing, just for fun I might try it. I wonder how it would look to run the cable from my bar ends up the hook of the drops, through the hoods, and out the top though the same hole that the brake cable exits (non aero brake levers), then tape the brake and shift housings together like Siamese twins until just before the head tube.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

rodar y rodar said:


> I`m thinking about a new routing, just for fun I might try it. I wonder how it would look to run the cable from my bar ends up the hook of the drops, through the hoods, and out the top though the same hole that the brake cable exits (non aero brake levers), then tape the brake and shift housings together like Siamese twins until just before the head tube.


I think there will be too many kinks and twists and the result will be poor shifting.

BTW, I have since removed the handlebar with the internal routing from the bar-end shifters from the bike. The 46cm wide bars have too much reach so I had to run a short stem. I was getting tired of hitting my thigh against the back of the bar so I've changed it for an old Ritchey WCS Logic bar I had laying around. I decided not to drill this one because of the thin-wall aluminum construction so conventional bar-end cable routing was used. I now need to get a 90mm stem.


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## mtnbke (Jun 2, 2009)

rodar y rodar said:


> Huh? They`re much cheaper than STI and even cheaper than many mtb shifters. DT shifters do cost slightly less, but by the time you add in the cost of Take-Offs or those bar end mounts for DTs you`d be up to a good bit more than the price of regular Shimano bar ends.
> 
> I`m thinking about a new routing, just for fun I might try it. I wonder how it would look to run the cable from my bar ends up the hook of the drops, through the hoods, and out the top though the same hole that the brake cable exits (non aero brake levers), then tape the brake and shift housings together like Siamese twins until just before the head tube.


Are you kidding? New NOS Shimano 8 speed barends of good quality (Ultegra) will run you over a hundred bucks. Those things are scarce.

NOS Ultegra 8 speed downtube shifters can be had for less than fifteen bucks. How much do you think Kelly Take-Offs cost?

Sure bar-ends are cheaper than STI. Obviously...

Either bar-ends or downtube shifters on Kelly Take-Offs are lighter, the bike will brake better (dedicated brake lever instead of compromised dual brifter), and shifting will be more precise and less finicky.

However, there are other good reasons to use Take-Offs instead of bar-ends, just like there are good reasons to use STI levers: You can easily shift from where you hands are. 

With wider randonneur bars it can be a pain to constantly reach back to shift each cog, especially with heavy loads when touring. No such issues with downtube shifters on the Take-Offs. Everything is right where your hands are, without having to steer, balance with one hand.

You also don't have issues of having to compromise your stem length or bar width to make sure you don't hit your knees on the bar-ends.


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## ethebull (May 30, 2007)

Going under the tape to the stem works great. Just use high grade cable and housing and watch that the length provides a smooth run. Jagwire brand is my preference.


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