# Best Configuration Combination? for Trek Madone



## terminus123 (Sep 24, 2009)

Hi, I'm thinking of building a P1 Trek Madone 6 series, and I would I'm stuck between three config combinations. All three are around same price:

Everything is 2010 model:

-Carbon Race XXX Lite Stem + Carbon Race X Lite Bladed Handlebar+ SRAM Rival Drivetrain + Race Lite Wheelset .

-Carbon Race XXX Lite Stem + Aluminum Race Lite Handlebar + Shimano Ultegra 6700 Drivetrain + Race Lite Wheelset.

-Aluminum Race Lite Stem + Aluminum Race Lite Handlebar + Shimano 105 Compact Drivetrain + Race X Lite Wheelset (190g lighter, better hubs, and scandium rims)

These are some factors I consider important:
-Overall performance/quality
-Overall bling factor
-Comfort
-Ease of future upgrade potential (maybe SRAM Red or Dura-Ace in future, better wheels, etc.)

I'm not too well versed in these components so I'm asking you guys, and suggestions or recommendations?

-thanks!


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## jellis25 (Oct 6, 2009)

I would upgrade your drivetrain before anything else. 

SRAM Force is not much more than Rival but the quality is better and models Red much more than Rival. Also the xxx stem does not drop much weight for the price and the xxx are not much of an upgrade. I would suggest:

race x lite stem, race lite bars, sram force and race x lite wheels

You could even get Red with the money you are saving on wheels.

This setup should be pretty light and have the bling you need.


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## terminus123 (Sep 24, 2009)

ahhh...thanks.

O I screwed up on something, the wheels are not XXX, there only RXL and RL. I wish I could afford Race XXX Lite wheels. I'm hoping for something around $4300


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## jellis25 (Oct 6, 2009)

Sorry I read it wrong.

I went onto the site and priced one out for you. Remember, this is totally subjective but it is what I would do with your budget.

Group: Sram Force
Wheelset: Race Lite
Stem: Race X Lite OS
Bars: Race Light VR OS
Saddle: Inform RL

Total was $4,315


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## Wheelman55 (Jul 10, 2009)

terminus...the 6700 components far outstrip rival, force or 105. Try to spec the bike w/o the bontrager wheels and buy a good quality set from the lbs. The bontrager wheels are somewhat expensive and I believe that you can do better. You can get the new 6700 tubeless wheel set for only $650 or the RS80 for $900. At any rate...the 6700 group is one that you will not need to upgrade...unless you go to Di2 of course. Invest in some quality wheels and a pro fit with any extra cash.


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## terminus123 (Sep 24, 2009)

Wheelman55 said:


> terminus...the 6700 components far outstrip rival, force or 105. Try to spec the bike w/o the bontrager wheels and buy a good quality set from the lbs. The bontrager wheels are somewhat expensive and I believe that you can do better. You can get the new 6700 tubeless wheel set for only $650 or the RS80 for $900. At any rate...the 6700 group is one that you will not need to upgrade...unless you go to Di2 of course. Invest in some quality wheels and a pro fit with any extra cash.


I was actually thinking of getting the making the components super low-end, and getting the the Dura-Ace Lite Double option (Dura-Ace 7900 crankset and rear derailleur + Ultegra 6700 everything else). Problem is I'm pretty sure the only way to get a 2010 Madone 6 series atm is getting a full bike from Project One. I can't seem to find another way.


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## nor_cal_rider (Dec 18, 2006)

terminus123 said:


> I was actually thinking of getting the making the components super low-end, and getting the the Dura-Ace Lite Double option (Dura-Ace 7900 crankset and rear derailleur + Ultegra 6700 everything else). Problem is I'm pretty sure the only way to get a 2010 Madone 6 series atm is getting a full bike from Project One. I can't seem to find another way.


Why is that a problem? Project 1 bikes can be had for no extra cost if you choose a "stock/factory" paint scheme, and for just a few hundred over your budgeted amount, you can have it painted a custom color of your choice.


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## jellis25 (Oct 6, 2009)

I would talk to you lbs about that. It is true you can only choose one group and not mix anything up on P1 but your lbs may be willing to exchange a few parts for a little more money.


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## kdiddy (Feb 15, 2008)

Rival is about 300 grams lighter than 105, and about 100 grams lighter than Ultegra 6700. Force is about 80 grams lighter than Rival. I'd realy try and ride a bike with SRAM vs Shimano to see which you prefer for feel. They both work great. I'd go with Rival, RXL stem, RL bars, and RXL wheels if I were to build a Madone and i was trying to get the most bang for my buck. The Carbon stem isn't really any lighter than the RXL one, though it might be stiffer if that's a concern. Carbon bars should dampen vibrations better than Aluminum, but they are pricey and might not survive a crash like aluminum (Aluminum bends, Carbon may crack but look ok).


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## Wheelman55 (Jul 10, 2009)

terminus123 said:


> I was actually thinking of getting the making the components super low-end, and getting the the Dura-Ace Lite Double option (Dura-Ace 7900 crankset and rear derailleur + Ultegra 6700 everything else). Problem is I'm pretty sure the only way to get a 2010 Madone 6 series atm is getting a full bike from Project One. I can't seem to find another way.


terminus...bummer about not being able to spec w/o the wheels. The Bontragers arent' "bad" however they do seem to fail on a regular basis. My lbs said that when they get failed wheels that Trek will either replace OR give them a credit. If you have a set that does fail you should consider asking for credit and applying that to wheels that you actually want. There are a lot of better wheels out there.

An upgrade worth doing right away is to put SP-41 cables on the bike.

Re:components...I see no reason to mix 6700 with 7900. I got to put 500 miles on 6700 this fall and it's very nice...stiff, reliable and about the same weight as 7800 (old DA). The only real upgrade from 6700 in my opinion would be Di2.

I ride a fair number of miles...and my racer buddy's ride LOTS of miles. As a group all of us have been happy with both Shimano and Campag. A few of the guys switched to SRAM this year and most of them are switching back to Shimano and Campag. There have just been too many mechanical issues with the SRAM stuff. The performance and reliability of S and C are just that much better.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

I seriously wouldn't sweat the components too much. 

First off decide what you like, the thumb shifters of Campy, the Double Tap of SRAM or the STI of Shimano. All the hoods feel different and folks have preferences. Make note that if you have Shimano bikes already, especially wheels and cassettes, you may want to stick with either Shimano or SRAM. They are not compatible with Campy.

If going with Shimano, except for the eDA Di2, you will not notice any performance gains going from 105 to 7900. Likewise apart from from some minor trimming issues, you will not notice much between Rival to Red. 

Seriously, it's all good and does what is advertised, and does it well.

As said I would focus on frame and wheels getting the best for the money. I particularly like the new 2010 RXL wheel. Fairly light, stiff and strong. That being said, you can get better wheels for less $$ from 3rd party sources. I suppose if you could spec the bike without wheels that would be a good option.

Also what was said, the RXL aluminum stem is pretty good and I think is even lighter than the newer style RXXXL carbon stem.


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## kdiddy (Feb 15, 2008)

You can spec Kysirium SL premiums if you are really set against the Bontrager wheels, but I'd probably stick with Bontragers for the price. They have a 5 year warranty if anything goes wrong.


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## John Kuhl (Jul 20, 2007)

+1 on the Bontrager RXL wheels. Name one other
wheel company that has a 5 year warranty. The RXL
wheels are very good. 

Best, John


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## terminus123 (Sep 24, 2009)

thanks for the advice guys!


I'll probably just get the Race Clinchers for now, and then sometime next year buy a Zipp 303 or something off ebay.


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