# Found an Old Nishiki!



## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

The frame says "G1080," so this, apparently, is a 1980 Sport model made in Taiwan. It's already completely torn apart, except for the freewheel cassette, for which I'll have to buy a special tool. 

Some days, when the roads aren't steep and the winds are calm . . . a steelie is best. DB


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## Trofeo Rosso (Mar 25, 2011)

Move those shifters to the down tube, and ride the heck out of it...


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Thanks, I definitely will! 

Does anyone know the name/type of the cassette removal tool for this 7-speed? Photo attached. Thanks again . . .


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

. . . and apologies. It's a "threaded freewheel," not a "cassette." There's a difference. Sheldon told me so.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Duane Behrens said:


> Does anyone know the name/type of the cassette removal tool for this 7-speed? Photo attached. Thanks again . . .


PARK TOOL FR-1 Freewheel Remover, Shimano - Eastern Mountain Sports
or
Park Tool Co. » FR-1.2 : Freewheel Remover : Freewheel & Cassette
(newer thin-walled version that lets you get to the freewheel without removing the axle locknut and/or cone -- though you probably want to overhaul that hub anyway)



> Move those shifters to the down tube, and ride the heck out of it...


correction: take those shifters off (derailleurs, too), and . . .

A frame like that just cries out "fixed-gear" to me.

Either way, have fun.



> Some days, when the roads aren't steep and the winds are calm . . . a steelie is best.


My steel road bike works fine on hilly rides on windy days. Go figure.


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## Skimmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Sandblast and powdercoat paint. Shop around prices range wildly. Then it will look more authentic than a thousand dollar Rivendell frame and some hipsters and trustafarians will see you as the original retro dude. Unfortunately, you'd lose that bicycle registration sticker. Is it a local license from California? Then it would be a crime to remove it according to Department of Motor Vehicles, CVC 39002, Registration and Licensing of Bicycles:

(b) It is unlawful for any person to tamper with, destroy, mutilate, or alter any license indicia or registration form, or to remove, alter, or mutilate the serial number, or the identifying marks of a licensing agency's identifying symbol, on any bicycle frame licensed under this division.


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## HillbillyTom (Sep 9, 2013)

Wow, you even have to register bicycles in California?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Skimmy said:


> Sandblast and powdercoat paint. Shop around prices range wildly. Then it will look more authentic . . . .


With that frame, I'd be more like sandpaper and rattlecan. But "authentic" ain't my style, I guess . . .


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## OldZaskar (Jul 1, 2009)

Gotta agree with JCavillia here. Powder coating will be in the $150-250 range, unless you've got a friend with a gun and oven. That's a chunk for that bike. But, for under $15.00, rattle cans can net some great results - IF you take your time...

I painted this Jeep in my driveway.


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## Skimmy (Dec 13, 2011)

Not statewide but back in the 80s some towns or college campuses offered registration. Seems long abandoned.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

Skimmy said:


> Sandblast and powdercoat paint.


Or you could just drive down the freeway and throw money out the window. That is a very low-end bike and the sandblast/paint job you suggest would be like filling up the gas tank on a Yugo - triple the "value" of the bike. As others have suggested if the OP wants the paint to look better then a little sandpaper and a rattle can.

If the tires are bad then buy the cheapest tires you can find and just ride it. It is not worth investing any money in that bike.

BTW I don't think it is possible to move those crap shifters to the down tube. The stem diameter is MUCH smaller than the down tube diameter.


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## AZ.MTNS (Jun 29, 2009)

The shifters can be moved with the use of down tube shifters or clamp on shifter bosses.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Thanks, the FR1 worked great to get the sprocket cluster off. I went ahead and removed the locknuts and cones, then the axle. Two bearings fell out. I fished out the rest of them and cleaned the whole thing with solvent. Applied new grease and stuck the bearings back into the outer race. Seems like they have a lot of room in there, but I guess the cones tighten them up? 

Steel bikes DO work fine on hilly roads and windy days. You're right. But on the steep climbs here locally, and if I want to keep up, it's carbon. IMO. Either one is fun . . . I just didn't realize HOW much fun (and comfortable) a good steel bike can be. I'm hooked.


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## sport7 (Jan 10, 2010)

Great find!

Nishiki was my first ten speed in the 70's and i wish i still owned that Nishiki International. Stem shifters are great, in fact i still ride them on my Schwinn Duosport tandem; they are much better than down tube shifters. One hand can make all the adjustments you need, important on a tandem. 

Grease all the wheel bearings, bottom bracket, and steering; very cheap and it will make a difference. Then make sure the wheels are true. 

Paint it how you like, this is your hobby and it is not about how much bikes are worth. If it makes you happy and gets you riding, then spending a few dollars could make this a very unique bicycle. A good comfortable anatomical seat will help also. 

Finally pictures of the finished job would be nice. :thumbsup:


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Kerry Irons said:


> Or you could just drive down the freeway and throw money out the window. That is a very low-end bike and the sandblast/paint job you suggest would be like filling up the gas tank on a Yugo - triple the "value" of the bike. As others have suggested if the OP wants the paint to look better then a little sandpaper and a rattle can.
> If the tires are bad then buy the cheapest tires you can find and just ride it. It is not worth investing any money in that bike. BTW I don't think it is possible to move those crap shifters to the down tube. The stem diameter is MUCH smaller than the down tube diameter.


Interesting. This worthless crap bike with its crap shifters, crap derailleurs and other low-end crap components - well, it appears to have provided regular service to 2 or more successive owners for more than 30 years with little or no maintenance. Interesting also that there are still so many original examples of this crappy bike still around, being ridden every day . . . as this one had been.

Yes, I'll strip the paint myself and will use a rattle can to get it back on the road. But, based on your advice (above), I think I'll also plan to re-strip it down to the frame one day, then get it into a professional paint shop. It's gonna look great.

And then, I'll have a crap bike I can be proud of for another 30 years.


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## sport7 (Jan 10, 2010)

Actually all bikes can be fun, just adjust them properly and most any low end machine will do fine. Yep, for us steelies: steel IS real and just lasts, i have plenty of steel bikes that have been around for decades, they just become classics. A good bike will always be a good bike. 

Learn how to adjust your bearings, i generally just replace them and give them some good Mobil 1 grease, but any old grease should work.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

sport7 said:


> Actually all bikes can be fun, just adjust them properly and most any low end machine will do fine. Yep, for us steelies: steel IS real and just lasts, i have plenty of steel bikes that have been around for decades, they just become classics. A good bike will always be a good bike. Learn how to adjust your bearings, i generally just replace them and give them some good Mobil 1 grease, but any old grease should work.


Thanks. I found a very helpful video by one "CJHOYLE:"

How to Rebuild and Repair a Wheel Bearing on a Bicycle - YouTube

Gonna go back out to the garage now and remove those bearings again. I've been trying to clean it and re-install them with the dust caps in place. Should have pulled off the caps, then just replaced the bearings with new, which I'll do now. Then I'll take the time to adjust and re-adjust until perfect. 

2 steps forward and 1 step back . . . but forward all the same. DB


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Everything is off and the frame is ready to be stripped of its old paint.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)




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## sport7 (Jan 10, 2010)

very sweet.

i overhauled an old schwinn duosport, best bike mechanic education i could have. its like anything else: the only thing you learn by getting something new is how to rip off the shrink wrap from the carton. 

every upgrade you do will make it kinda like a new bike.....and a great holiday to you.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

sport7 said:


> very sweet. i overhauled an old schwinn duosport, best bike mechanic education i could have. its like anything else: the only thing you learn by getting something new is how to rip off the shrink wrap from the carton. every upgrade you do will make it kinda like a new bike.....and a great holiday to you.


 Some of the things I've learned so far:

1. I now know what a cone nut is, and why I now need a cone wrench. 
2. On these old bikes, the bearings don't come in disposable cartridges.
3. A seized-up expander bolt in a steering head is common and can be broken free by a single sharp tap with a hammer to the top bolt;
4. New front derailleurs rout the cable in from the top. Old ones, from the bottom. The difference matters.

And so on. And of course there is that line from the old Honda CL90 motorcycle manual: "Before working on motorcycle, make sure head is in happy place." 

Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again for all the help here . . .


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> 1. I now know what a cone nut is, and why I now need a cone wrench.


To properly adjust the bearings, you need a SET of cone wrenches, in various sizes.


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## sport7 (Jan 10, 2010)

JCavilia said:


> To properly adjust the bearings, you need a SET of cone wrenches, in various sizes.


i agree. And the off brand stuff aint too expensive, in fact the best are quite affordable. Go get a set of cheap bike tools for starts from Nashbar or Performance. For a little more cash, get a basic set of tools from Park. i bought a few at a time. :thumbsup:


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

JCavilia said:


> To properly adjust the bearings, you need a SET of cone wrenches, in various sizes.


Well, for the rear I've got a 15mm cone wrench which does double duty as a pedal wrench. For the front, I need (I think) a 13mm cone wrench, which I don't yet have. The tools I use most often are hung on the peg board. I need a bigger peg board.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Duane Behrens said:


> Well, for the rear I've got a 15mm cone wrench which does double duty as a pedal wrench. For the front, I need (I think) a 13mm cone wrench, which I don't yet have. The tools I use most often are hung on the peg board. I need a bigger peg board.


For proper adjustment, you really need a set, so you have two of each size, since you need to hold both sides to get it right.

If you try to loosen a really stuck pedal with a cone wrench, the wrench will be quickly destroyed. A proper pedal wrench is a good investment.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

JCavilia said:


> For proper adjustment, you really need a set, so you have two of each size, since you need to hold both sides to get it right. If you try to loosen a really stuck pedal with a cone wrench, the wrench will be quickly destroyed. A proper pedal wrench is a good investment.


Actually I misspoke: I already have the pedal wrench, which did double duty as a cone wrench for the rear hub. 









And what you say makes perfect sense. I'll get two of each size cone wrench; 15 and 13mm for this bike. Are there other common sizes? Thanks. DB


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

The paint is coming off slowly, but it's coming. I'm using paint stripper applied with a brush, waiting 15 minutes and scraping at it with the putty knife. Then an electric drill, trying various attachments to clean up the bits. The one shown in the picture seems to work best. I'm not sure what it's called anymore, it was left over from an old motorbike project. 

So far, I haven't touched the head tube with the metal "Nishiki" emblem attached. A bit afraid to, really. I may try to drill out the 2 existing rivets with a small bit . . .


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

A poster on another list pointed out that the rivets holding the emblem on are soft aluminum and easily sheared off from the back side (inside of the tube). And it worked. Guess I'll figure out how to put it back on when the time comes.


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## RRRoubaix (Aug 27, 2008)

Duane Behrens said:


> View attachment 289399
> 
> 
> Well, for the rear I've got a 15mm cone wrench which does double duty as a pedal wrench. For the front, I need (I think) a 13mm cone wrench, which I don't yet have. The tools I use most often are hung on the peg board. I need a bigger peg board.


Nice setup! I'm slowly trying to put together something similar. (Although I should probably figure out how to get better lighting first...)

The Nishiki is cool- I had one for my first real road bike in 1974.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Heh . . . as I was stripping the old paint off the frame, this tiny emblem in the shape of a heart began to appear on the underside of the frame downtube.

Cool . . .


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Duane Behrens said:


> I'll get two of each size cone wrench; 15 and 13mm for this bike. Are there other common sizes? Thanks. DB


14 and 16 are very common. 17 and 18 less so.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

JCavilia said:


> 14 and 16 are very common. 17 and 18 less so.


Thank you, Mr. Cavilia. I'll be at the bike shop tomorrow and will purchase or order these. Funny . . . perusing Sheldon Brown (RIP)'s website indicated his preference for what I think of as "nut drivers" - basically sockets at the end of a shaft attached to a screwdriver handle. I've got a bunch of these but have never felt the need to get them out of the drawer, always preferring a socket or open-end wrench instead. But he loved them, I guess for the lesser torque they provided when tightening things like brake cable stays. Best. Duane


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## xxl (Mar 19, 2002)

Duane Behrens said:


> Heh . . . as I was stripping the old paint off the frame, this tiny emblem in the shape of a heart began to appear on the underside of the frame downtube.
> 
> Cool . . .
> 
> View attachment 289453



I think that "emblem" is more than decorative; it might've been for mounting a cable stop or gear shift levers--hard to tell from the photo where exactly it is. I don't know if Nishiki used a heart emblem for anything in particular, though.

The frame's head tube badge makes it worth it for me, and I'd be tempted to leave the paint on it as is, and finish the rest of the frame in a nice contrasting color (black?)


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

I think you're correct on the heart shaped piece. Other posters also agreed that it's intended as an "anchor" to keep clamped-on cable stops from moving. 

I was able to remove the Nishiki emblem from the head tube intact and without damage, simply by shearing off the back of the rivet from inside the head tube. 

Thanks!


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## oily666 (Apr 7, 2007)

Question; Does your frame have stamped or forged drop-outs?


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

oily666 said:


> Question; Does your frame have stamped or forged drop-outs?


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## xxl (Mar 19, 2002)

Duane Behrens said:


> I think you're correct on the heart shaped piece. Other posters also agreed that it's intended as an "anchor" to keep clamped-on cable stops from moving.
> 
> I was able to remove the Nishiki emblem from the head tube intact and without damage, simply by shearing off the back of the rivet from inside the head tube.
> 
> Thanks!


Will you be able to reattach it?


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## mtor (Mar 1, 2007)

HillbillyTom said:


> Wow, you even have to register bicycles in California?


Its smart just in case it gets stolen


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

xxl said:


> Will you be able to reattach [the Nishiki emblem]?


Yes, although at the moment I have no idea how.  The two holes through which the original rivets passed appear to be undamaged. Each measures app. 1.5 to 2.0 mm in diameter. I'll be researching the installation of new, flush mounted rivets. If that doesn't work, I could probably epoxy (glue) it on, although that would make the next restoration more difficult. Thanks.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Went and picked up the re-painted frame today:


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## obed (Jan 12, 2014)

nice pics, got me thinking about looking on craigslist to find something to play with.


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## siclmn (Feb 7, 2004)

Duane Behrens said:


> Went and picked up the re-painted frame today:
> 
> View attachment 291242


Is that a 70's color?


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

siclmn said:


> Is that a 70's color?


No. It's called "yellow."


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

obed said:


> nice pics, got me thinking about looking on craigslist to find something to play with.


 What are you waiting for?! 

If I have one regret, it's that I didn't wait for a 56 cm frame to come up on Craigslist or E-Bay. I'll have fun fixing up this 49 cm Nishiki, but probably won't keep it because of its smaller size. On the other hand, my experience with this first rebuild will be useful when I find MY steelie. Good luck in your search. Best.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

*Started the Re-Build*


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

The rear wheel is on, and getting it there is a bit more involved than you might think. It took me half an hour to adjust the cup-and-cone assembly so that (a) there was just barely no play and yet (b) the wheel rolled freely. Park Tool has a great helper on this. It involves temporarily mounting the wheel on the outboard side of the left rear dropout:

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment


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## MXL (Jun 26, 2012)

Duane Behrens said:


> Interesting. This worthless crap bike with its crap shifters, crap derailleurs and other low-end crap components - well, it appears to have provided regular service to 2 or more successive owners for more than 30 years with little or no maintenance. Interesting also that there are still so many original examples of this crappy bike still around, being ridden every day . . . as this one had been.
> 
> Yes, I'll strip the paint myself and will use a rattle can to get it back on the road. But, based on your advice (above), I think I'll also plan to re-strip it down to the frame one day, then get it into a professional paint shop. It's gonna look great.
> 
> And then, I'll have a crap bike I can be proud of for another 30 years.


AMEN!!! My first 10 speed was a 73 Nishiki Olympiad - wish I still had it, even just to hang on the wall. I still have my 85 Nishiki that I bought new. It's still all original and looks 95% of new. A little heavy but I ride it when it's wet outside. I find it refreshing to regularly see old Nishikis ( and other vintage steel frames) on the road. The ubiquity of plastic, cookie-cutter frames is nauseating.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

MXL said:


> AMEN!!! My first 10 speed was a 73 Nishiki Olympiad - wish I still had it, even just to hang on the wall. I still have my 85 Nishiki that I bought new. It's still all original and looks 95% of new. A little heavy but I ride it when it's wet outside. I find it refreshing to regularly see old Nishikis ( and other vintage steel frames) on the road. The ubiquity of plastic, cookie-cutter frames is nauseating.


Brakes, brake hoods, cables, seat etc. all went on tonight. Slow and careful. Will try to work on the front and rear deraileurs this weekend.


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## skitorski (Dec 4, 2012)

What does it weigh ? I had an old Puch and I recall it was hefty.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

skitorski said:


> What does it weigh ? I had an old Puch and I recall it was hefty.


Thanks. For a steel-framed bike, this bike is quite light and enjoyable. 

I bought two steel Schwinn road bikes yesterday. One is a used-up, green 80s-vintage Olympic. It's as heavy as heavy can be. The other, actually in pretty good shape, was a 90s-era World Sport. Much lighter. Don't know the reason.


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## leadout_kv (Feb 7, 2011)

DB - you have certainly rekindled some memories. I have an early 80's Nishiki Sport (4130 cromoly). It has all its original components. Check out the "soft" bars, toe clips, my kick stand and the original bike computer is still on it. Also, it has a Suntour rear derailleur. I haven't touch this bike for at least 25yrs.

You may have inspired me to rebuild my bike too, just not sure what components I should keep or replace. I'll follow your rebuild for some ideas. :thumbsup:


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Give you $60 for it . . . . 

Seriously, DO take it all apart, but take a lot of "before" pictures. Then take more pictures on each step of dis-assembly, particularly the orientation of cables, the order and location of spacers on the bottom bracket and rear hub, etc. This saved me so much time - I had the laptop open on the bench as I re-assembled the bike.

If you get as far as disassembling the rear hub and BB (and I hope you do), Park's big blue book of maintenance provides a great shortcut for adjusting the cup and cone tension on the rear wheel. Go ahead and replace the bearings while you're in there. They're cheap, and you won't always see imperfections on the originals.

For sure, you'll need to replace brake pads, cables, cable housings, rim strips, tires and tubes. 

Your bike looks to be in pretty good knick, paint-wise. If you're not going to repaint it, then you won't have to remove the bearing cups from the steering head. You SHOULD, however, remove the steering stem, probably replace the bearings here as well, or at least check for smooth operation. To break the steering stem loose, you'll have to back out the stem bolt 1/8" to 1/4" (so the threads are visible above the top of the head), then give the top of the bolt a sharp tap with a hammer, unseating and thus loosening the inner expansion bolt. 

Hope you enjoy the project as much as I did. If not, that $60 offer is still there.


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## leadout_kv (Feb 7, 2011)

Duane Behrens said:


> Give you $60 for it . . . .
> 
> Seriously, DO take it all apart, but take a lot of "before" pictures. Then take more pictures on each step of dis-assembly, particularly the orientation of cables, the order and location of spacers on the bottom bracket and rear hub, etc. This saved me so much time - I had the laptop open on the bench as I re-assembled the bike.
> 
> ...


Thanks DB for the excellent suggestions. Mind if I ask you additional questions since you've learned a lot about your Nishiki or would you rather me start another thread?

Like for example....would newer components (ie Shimano 105 front & rear derailleur/front rear brakes/rear cog/compact crank groupset) fit?


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

leadout_kv said:


> Thanks DB for the excellent suggestions. Mind if I ask you additional questions since you've learned a lot about your Nishiki or would you rather me start another thread?
> 
> Like for example....would newer components (ie Shimano 105 front & rear derailleur/front rear brakes/rear cog/compact crank groupset) fit?


Well. That's a LOT of money to spend on a bike that won't have a lot more value after you've altered it so radically. If you're going to keep it forever and if that's what you have to have, by all means. But I believe that most people who restore and purchase these old bikes also enjoy bringing them to life with their original components. I had to change out the trashed FD on mine and I still feel guilty about it. 

I've personally enjoyed learning how to operate a friction-type shifter smoothly.

That said, let me make a few WAGs on your proposed changes. 

Switching to 105 brakes will probably be a function of wheel rim width and mounting points. You'll have to hold one in your hand next to the bike, comparing the 105 mounts to the original. 

Front derailleur - sure, a simple, clamp-on swap, unless the original is a "high normal," in which case you'll have to re-route the cables from a bottom to a side pull. 

Rear derailleur and cassette? The rear derailleur should bolt on easily, but I simply don't know if the wheel hub and width of the cassette would be compatible with your 126 rear dropout spread. If you buy those components from your LBS (vs. online), they may be willing to discuss fitment issues with you, or perhaps someone here can help. 

These are quite significant changes you're considering here . . . DB


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## WaynefromOrlando (Mar 3, 2010)

Thanks for posting this thread! My first bike purchase was a cheap Raleigh back in 1979 but my second bike was a Nishiki Royal 15 with a CroMoly frame and Shimano Arabesque components. I rode that bike for more than a decade, in Africa, Australia, all over So Cal and around Glenco, GA when I went to the Federal Law Enforcement Academy. 

I left the bike at my sister's house when I went through a divorce and it stayed in a shed in the back yard for nearly a decade before I remembered it and brought it home. It's in my tool shed right now awaiting a major overhaul, much like the one that you are putting your Nishiki through. I'll start my own thread to document that journey, hopefully starting sometime this year. Eventually I hope to ride my rebuilt Nishiki from California to South Carolina when I retire in 10 years or so.


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## leadout_kv (Feb 7, 2011)

Duane Behrens said:


> Well. That's a LOT of money to spend on a bike that won't have a lot more value after you've altered it so radically. If you're going to keep it forever and if that's what you have to have, by all means. But I believe that most people who restore and purchase these old bikes also enjoy bringing them to life with their original components. I had to change out the trashed FD on mine and I still feel guilty about it.
> 
> I've personally enjoyed learning how to operate a friction-type shifter smoothly.
> 
> ...


Thanks DB. You're exactly right regarding my thought of using 105 components. I'll stick with restoring as much as I can with the original components as you have impressively done. Also I'll work with my LBS with any components that I do need to change. I was trying to avoid hijacking your thread and asking too many questions about my Nishiki.

Again, what you've done with your Nishiki is impressive and I've enjoyed following your rebuild. Nice job!


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

leadout_kv said:


> Thanks DB. You're exactly right regarding my thought of using 105 components. I'll stick with restoring as much as I can with the original components as you have impressively done. Also I'll work with my LBS with any components that I do need to change. I was trying to avoid hijacking your thread and asking too many questions about my Nishiki.
> 
> Again, what you've done with your Nishiki is impressive and I've enjoyed following your rebuild. Nice job!


You're not "hijacking" this thread by any means. I think it's great to share our different experiences with similar bikes. 

This Nishiki Sport will never, ever allow me to climb hills like my Tarmac. But you know? It's not bad. It will GET me up the hill (albeit a tick or two slower), and on the straights or downhills it is really wonderful. These old steelies have a charm all their own. I hope you'll consider restoring yours to its stock Nishikiness. But whichever route you take, I look forward to reading about it here. Best. DB


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Still waiting for delivery of the clamp-on cable stop for the side-pull FD. I'm letting an excellent local bike shop - Safety Cycle in Torrance - assist in this step, since they'll also make sure the sprocket, chain an chain rings are in proper alignment. Then I'll install new bar tape and brake pads. Assuming I can put them on straight, the new Nishiki decals should finish it off nicely. So I'm getting close.  And I've had a great time. If you haven't tried it yet, I recommend this as a reasonable hobby.


View attachment 291630


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

This one is nearly complete. Thanks for all the great advice here. This was your project, too. DB


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Got the stem post turned around correctly, rear bearings and brakes adjusted. Still need to install the Nishiki emblem on headset.


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## MXL (Jun 26, 2012)

I keep thinking about upgrading my 85 Nishiki with a Campy Groupo from one of my Colnagos as an excuse to upgrade one of my Colnagos with Campy 11 speed. The thought doesn't last long. I did, however, replace the Diacomp brakes with Campy.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

A friend advised me that I'd placed the brake hoods too high on the handlebars. Told me to move them down until the tips of the brake levers just touched a rule held beneath the bottom drops. 

Another agreed, and also advised that I rotate the bars backward slightly. 

I did both, then rode it around the block. It's definitely more comfortable this way.


View attachment 291817


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## greenbubba (Feb 17, 2014)

*inspired*

I was recently given this 63 cm Nishiki Sport. I think mainly because I'm 6-2 and seller was having a hard time getting rid of the bike. Been injured so have only ridden it a few blocks and other than a gunky chain it rides well. Most of the grime in the photo wiped right off.

I'm not afraid to just dive in, but is there a consensus 'must have' how-to manual to work on your own bike? Parks?


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

I have the Parks Tool book and the "Zinn and the Art of Bicycle Maintenance" books. But honestly, I have better luck with search engines and videos. Almost everything you want to learn about overhauling a bottom bracket, replacing bearings and then adjusting a cup-and-cone assembly, etc . . . . it's all there. Some are bad, some are good but collectively, you'll see and learn enough to dive in with confidence. After a couple of decades of working on motorbikes, this stuff is a dawdle . . . but every bit as enjoyable. DB


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Here is the bike in its current form. JV suggested these replacement brake hoods, which provide a more comfortable feel (especially when climbing). A great improvement. The red bar tape is temporary and will be replaced with brown along with the dark brown Brooks saddle. Yes, I know the bar tape should be wrapped UNDER, not over, the hoods. Unfortunately, the hoods are made with a hard material, very unlike the Shimano hoods. I found it difficult to bring the sides of the hoods up enough to conceal the tape underneath. 

In about a month (after the bike gets borrowed and used by a friend), I'll replace the stem shifter with the downtube type. Looking forward to it. 

I posted a downward facing photo of the bike to show you what a 50 cm seat tube (aka "bike size") looks when mated to a 56 cm top tube. Heh.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Duane Behrens said:


> Here is the bike in its current form. JV suggested these replacement brake hoods, which provide a more comfortable feel (especially when climbing). A great improvement.


Looks good... but you probably paid 2x as much for the rebadged canecreek as the identical tektro that's like $20.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

headloss said:


> Looks good... but you probably paid 2x as much for the rebadged canecreek as the identical tektro that's like $20.


Well, that's interesting. Thanks.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Duane Behrens said:


> Well, that's interesting. Thanks.


It's worth checking out, the hood/rubber is different, so it might be more pliable trying to get it to fit nicely over the bar-tape. FWIW, I think the Cane Creek looks better, I love the lizards.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

headloss said:


> It's worth checking out, the hood/rubber is different, so it might be more pliable trying to get it to fit nicely over the bar-tape. FWIW, I think the Cane Creek looks better, I love the lizards.


Thanks. I'm eventually going to make the same conversion to the '88 Schwinn. I think I'll try those for that bike.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

I put "new" (to me) Suntour DT shifters on yesterday - I like how they look and shift.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Here is the bike with its latest upgrades: (a) Suntour DT Power Shifters to replace the original stem mounts; (b) Cane Creek brake levers and hoods to replace the original cantilever ("turkey leg") levers; (c) a new B17 Brooks saddle, and (d) matching bar tape. I like the overall look of the bike much better now, and am looking forward to finding out if the Brooks saddles are worth the hype.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

headloss said:


> Looks good... but you probably paid 2x as much for the rebadged canecreek as the identical tektro that's like $20.


I stand corrected (after a discussion on another forum that you are also a member of), the Tektro I had in mind are not identical (but they are compatible). Origin8 has a rebadged version of the original Tektro (which is no longer produced) which is identical to the CaneCreek.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

New:
paint
decals
front derailleur
brake hoods
bar tape
downtube shifters
steering head bearings
bottom bracket bearings
wheel bearings
Brooks saddle
chain
sprocket cluster
wheels, tubes and tires
brake cables and housing
shifter cables and housing









All for less than $500, including the paint and the new saddle. My expensive carbon bike now sits in the garage most weekdays; this is simply a more attractive, enjoyable, and comfortable daily rider / commuter.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Skimmy said:


> Sandblast and powdercoat paint. Shop around prices range wildly. Then it will look more authentic than a thousand dollar Rivendell frame and some hipsters and trustafarians will see you as the original retro dude. Unfortunately, you'd lose that bicycle registration sticker. Is it a local license from California? Then it would be a crime to remove it according to Department of Motor Vehicles, CVC 39002, Registration and Licensing of Bicycles:
> 
> (b) It is unlawful for any person to tamper with, destroy, mutilate, or alter any license indicia or registration form, or to remove, alter, or mutilate the serial number, or the identifying marks of a licensing agency's identifying symbol, on any bicycle frame licensed under this division.


I removed it. Now I'm a fugitive. Running from the bicycle police. "Indiana wants me, lord I can't go back there!"


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

headloss said:


> I stand corrected (after a discussion on another forum that you are also a member of), the Tektro I had in mind are not identical (but they are compatible). Origin8 has a rebadged version of the original Tektro (which is no longer produced) which is identical to the CaneCreek.


The Cane Creek hoods are on. Apart from some difficulty getting the bar tape UNDER them (very stiff, non-pliable rubber), I like them a lot, MUCH better than the original cantilevers. Feels good to climb with these new hoods. Will buy the same for the Schwinn. Thanks.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

Heh. I talked Jane into riding the Nishiki tonight. Her daily ride is a Specialized carbon Roubaix with, of course, modern brifters. She couldn't get her arms or mind wrapped around the downtube shifters, although they're working perfectly. 

Works for me. It's MY bike now.


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