# Sticky  Tips to amaze the new rider.



## QuiQuaeQuod

The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."

Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.

The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.

So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?

Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.


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## Cory

*Oh, sure, take my best one....*

That's such an obvious one I'm surprised how it wows people, but I've done it on camping trips and at races and they stand and gape like I'd invented pressurized air.
Couple of others, obvious to veterans but probably helpful to newbies:
When fitting a chain, just stretch it around the big cog and big ring, add one link and put the sucker together. It will be close enough.
Toe strap (which nobody has anymore, but you can use a shoelace) around the brakes to hold the pads against the rim while you adjust the cable.
Puncture, but no patch or spare tube? You shouldn't let this happen, but if it does, cut the tube right at the hole and tie a figure 8 knot as tight as you can in each end. Insert in tire, pump up and ride (works WAY better with mountain bike tires than road rubber, but it's rideable)
Whang the high spot of a tacoed wheel on a fence post or something to beat it more or less back into shape, then tweak the spokes with a wrench until it's rideable with the brake release open. To be honest, I've only had to do this once, but it fixed a REALLY bad wheel well enough to get us to the next rest stop.
Anybody remember those tool-kit freewheel vises you could use to pull a freewheel so you could replace a drive-side spoke? I still have one, useless now, around the garage. A modern-day equivalent, the Cassette Cracker, is the size and weight of a church key can opener and will spin off a cassette with no other tools. On long rides I carry one, plus a couple of spokes taped to the top or seat tube. Don't know where you'll find a Cracker, though, except in my garage.
.


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## Anti-gravity

dr hoo said:


> The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."
> 
> Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.
> 
> The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.
> 
> So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?
> 
> Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.


Some people seem to be amazed when I can:

-Put on a tight-beaded road tire with my bare hands.
-Adjust a disc brake so it is dead silent (no rubbing).
-Get a stiff link out of a chain with my hands.
-track stand
-ride and steer my bike without hands
-fix a slashed tire with duct tape  

Ok, I'm not trying to brag, since lots of people can do those things, but it's fun to show off sometimes  .

-R


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## Coolhand

Simple stuff that's good to know:

1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.

2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.

3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.


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## Tim M

With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.


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## Bocephus Jones II

Tim M said:


> With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.


energy bar wrappers also work for this.


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## OES

When you come to an obstacle in the road, push down, pull up, hop over. The first time you manage it -- well, talk about an amazed newbie.


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## HAL9000

Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.


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## olr1

When using any hand held pump, find a stone or a fence post and rest the end of the pump on it; effectively converting your hand pump into a mini track pump.

I also second the no lever approach to taking tyres on and off.

Cold day that's gonna warm up? few sheets of newspaper up the jersey, take out when warm.

Putting wheels in? Front first; it's the easiest and lifts the front of the bike making the rear easier, and always remove the wheel in the smallest sprocket, that way you know where it goes when replacing.

Arm warmers are the greatest bit of kit.

Shaving legs? always shave towards the knee, ie down at the top, up from the feet.

Good trick? picking up a dropped cap while riding along.

Best bottle cages? Metal 'cos you can bend them in to grip the bottles for cobbles and rougher races.

Rainy day? cotton cap under helmet = dryer eyes.

Power Bars take more energy to chew than you get from the bar itself.


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## VaughnA

HAL9000 said:


> Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.


I use tyvec CD/DVD holders as a bag for my tubes in my seatpack. It protects the tube from my toolkit and other stuff in the bag, and can be used to boot a tire like you said.


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## harvey

olr1 said:


> Power Bars take more energy to chew than you get from the bar itself.


DEFINITELY don't store your Power Bar away from body heat when it's cold. They could break your teeth! Clif Bars are another story .... much softer and tastier.


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## funknuggets

*My tips....*

Im sure the arguements will come, but after many years and threads read, this is my price for performance tips. All of these answers have their caveats, but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies.

1. The best upgrade for your money: If your frame fits you CORRECTLY: Wheels, wheels, wheels otherwise FRAME FRAME FRAME
2. The best frame material for your money: Aluminum
3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s 
4. Carbon handlebars, Cranks, or handlebars: For the money, Handlebars
5. Shimano vs Campy: again price for performance: Shimano
6. the best sports drink....: price for performance.... Water with a touch of salt


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## Keeping up with Junior

*My Tip*



funknuggets said:


> Im sure the arguements will come...but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies...


Don't believe everything you read on the internet.


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## KeeponTrekkin

*32 spoke wheels...*

are the best long term value. Low spoke count wheels may look cool but can also leave you walking home or waiting for a factory rebuild.


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## cycling

i third the no tool/tire off method

and to learn that it takes...well.........practice

i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_


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## Bocephus Jones II

cycling said:


> i third the no tool/tire off method
> 
> and to learn that it takes...well.........practice
> 
> i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_


certain combos are a real pain though. carry your tire irons just in case or you may end up with blisters on your thumbs.


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## funknuggets

*oh yeah?*

Shimano is better than campy!

honestly (I agree).


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## Keeping up with Junior

*Yeah!*



funknuggets said:


> Shimano is better than campy!


Interesting, not even the one I was warning newbies about. Sounds like someone may have a predisposed bias.



funknuggets said:


> ...this is my price for performance tips...
> 1. The best upgrade for your money: If your frame fits you CORRECTLY: Wheels, wheels, wheels otherwise FRAME FRAME FRAME


After you have a properly fitting and fitted bicycle the best upgrades are changing stock components that do not fit your body or riding style. Saddle, tires, cassette, shoe & pedal combination, computer with cadence... Buy a couple of pairs of good shorts.



funknuggets said:


> 2. The best frame material for your money: Aluminum


Although for a newbie comfort often times trumps performance and they may develop their riding ability quicker on a bike that they can put long miles on rather than an aluminum rocket that lets them go fast over shorter distances.



funknuggets said:


> 3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s


Hmmmm, is this still true in the longer term with Shimano's transition of its product lines to 10 speed? Certainly something to think about depending on the short and long term goals of the newbie.



funknuggets said:


> 4. Carbon handlebars, Cranks, or handlebars: For the money, Handlebars


Well handlebars over cranks but properly sized handlebars should have been dealt with in the bike fit and carbon is really not necessary although it may look cool. Why would you be putting carbon handlebars and cranks on a 105 level bike?



funknuggets said:


> 5. Shimano vs Campy: again price for performance: Shimano


Maybe or maybe not. A lot of factors to look at and the old rule of thumb from 2 or 3 years ago may have changed with recent developments in the market. Certainly a point to be researched and discussed in a different forum.



funknuggets said:


> 6. the best sports drink....: price for performance.... Water with a touch of salt


Print this list so you can put it in your pocket and read it while you try to gather enough energy after bonking to make it back home.


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## Anti-gravity

*Utterly Infallible!*



funknuggets said:


> Im sure the arguements will come, but after many years and threads read, this is my price for performance tips. All of these answers have their caveats, but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies.


LMAO  

-R


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## AIE

*re: bike stand*

Same can be accomplished by perching the nose of your saddle on a low-hanging, horizontal tree branch. Bikes balance quite well this way.


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## olds_cool

"Well handlebars over cranks but properly sized handlebars should have been dealt with in the bike fit and carbon is really not necessary although it may look cool. Why would you be putting carbon handlebars and cranks on a 105 level bike?"

cause they dropped almost a half pound off the bike, and were not much more than upgrading to an ultegra crank and bb.


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## sgt_hedgehog

funknuggets said:


> 3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s


especially for 2006!
10 SPEEEED!!!!


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## Thommy

*Yet another bike stand*

Using motorcycle tie down straps with the s-hooks. Hook one end to a cross beam and the other end around the seatpost, the other strap will hand from another cross beam (or hook) and then around the stem.


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## RodeRash

VaughnA said:


> I use tyvec CD/DVD holders as a bag for my tubes in my seatpack. It protects the tube from my toolkit and other stuff in the bag, and can be used to boot a tire like you said.


Old cotton sock for the tube. Holes in it are OK, also the ones that show up in the laundry with no mate. Put the tube in the foot end and fold the top over. Then store the CO2 cartridge, irons, etc. in the "leg end." This does a couple things: Keeps the tube from getting chafed in the bag against the tools, but also keeps the tools from chafing your seat bag against the rails on the saddle. Finally, when you do have a flat or a minor roadside repair, you have a "grease rag" to clean up your hands. 

NEVER pass up a chance to top off your water bottles! 

Sodium bi-carb in the bottle with water is an electrolyte and better than salt because it will settle your stomach a bit on a hard ride. A pinch will do ya! 

Leather pouch coin purse for keys and change. Keeps keys/change from poking a hole in your $100 jersey, and keeps the contents together. 

Speakin' of jerseys. Zippers cost money. When looking at jerseys and comparing prices, get the one with the LONG zipper that comes all the way down to your navel. Hang the cost! It will pay for itself in the long haul. Also, put it on. Zip up the neck. It's nice if you can un-zip the neck with one hand and no fancy finger work. That's a function of fit and design. Helps too if the zipper tab is a decent size. 

For the tourist types -- DON'T secure clothing on the bars. You haven't lived until that shirt comes untied and wraps around the front wheel!


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## olr1

Shoes? $100 plus....

Socks? $1.....

Put socks over your shoes when it rains.


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## RodeRash

Oh yeah. This seems obvious too. 

Buy some decent riding shorts. Then leave the Jockey's and Joe Boxer's at home. That goes for the Maidenform, and Olga's too.


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## symbo

*tire change*

Lots tell how great it is to change a tire with no levers, but no one hinted at how.

When taking the tire off or on, the trick is to make sure the opposite end your are working with your hands is sunk well down into the rim. this will give those extra few milimeters on the other side that you need to pop it off or on.

For example, when taking it off, pinch the beads together (no air in tube at all) with one hand, while pulling out on the end you want to remove. 

Another tip: always preinflate the tube just enough to give it shape, work the tube into the rim first, so you don't get it stuck between a bead and the rim. If you need to let it out again for the last section of bead, at least you know it's properly seated.

Also, about all these boot materials - if you really want to fix the tire and have a patch kit, clean and glue a patch over the slice (on the inside obviously) just like you would a tube. I've had realatively new tires that were sliced last until the tread was gone with a well placed patch. Saves buying a new tire.

Pop the bottle trick - (mt or city bikes) - spot a plastic bottle against the curb...pinch it between the front tire and the curb... watch it shoot into the air. I've had a friend in front of me put one right into my chest. sometimes you can even pop one over the next riders head. Beware, open bottles or cans may spray you down.


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## DieselDan

HAL9000 said:


> Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.


A cut out section of denium works well.


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## gcaz

*Quick Tube Tip*

If your new tube doesn't have it already, wipe a bit of talcum powder over it before installing. Then pre-inflate the tube just enough to give it shape (as someone else mentioned). I use the silver rings to give the pump good purchase on the stem.


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## dagger

*2006 105 definitely*



sgt_hedgehog said:


> especially for 2006!
> 10 SPEEEED!!!!


I don't agree with selecting 105 over Ultegra for prior years.


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## Bryan

Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.


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## bigrider

*tips*

Learn to unclip your left foot instead of your right, and say goodbye to chainring tattooes.

When changing a flat, you never should have to touch the chain and get grease all over your hands. Have your bike in the big ring on the front and the small cog on the back. You should be able to take the wheel off and put it back on. The big ring in the front keeps more pressure on the chain and keeps it on the chainring.

If you want to check your shifting without riding, stand on the left side of your bike, bend over and place the tip of the saddle over the back of your neck and lift the back wheel off the ground. Shift with your left hand and peddle with your right.

Instead of powerbars and expensive food, buy iced oatmeal cookies from the dollar store. They have almost the same balance but taste better and are easy to pack.

Don't buy cold water at the convenience stores on a group ride. Just buy a gallon of warm water for a buck and share with the whole group. Don't worry about keeping your liquids cold, it is more trouble than it is worth.


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## Muldoon54

Tim M said:


> With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.



I usually take an old tire and cut the bead out. When that is done, I cut the tire into different lengths (anywhere from 2" to 4") and keep them in my saddlebag. If I get a sidewall cut, place the proper length in and that usually gets me home.

As for the bunny hopping thing. I did the classic mistake on a ride with a friend. Was talking to him and not looking forward (long stretch straightaway while on the shoulder). He yelled "Watch out!" and looked up to see a huge tree limb in front of me. I had no where to go so I bunny hopped. He still talks about that to this day. You would have sworn that I won Paris-Roubaix.


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## Uprwstsdr

*The last thing you should do*

before leaving your home for a ride is drink a glass of water.


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## Jesse D Smith

RodeRash said:


> Old cotton sock for the tube. Holes in it are OK, also the ones that show up in the laundry with no mate. Put the tube in the foot end and fold the top over. Then store the CO2 cartridge, irons, etc. in the "leg end." This does a couple things: Keeps the tube from getting chafed in the bag against the tools, but also keeps the tools from chafing your seat bag against the rails on the saddle. Finally, when you do have a flat or a minor roadside repair, you have a "grease rag" to clean up your hands.
> 
> NEVER pass up a chance to top off your water bottles!
> 
> Sodium bi-carb in the bottle with water is an electrolyte and better than salt because it will settle your stomach a bit on a hard ride. A pinch will do ya!
> 
> Leather pouch coin purse for keys and change. Keeps keys/change from poking a hole in your $100 jersey, and keeps the contents together.
> 
> Speakin' of jerseys. Zippers cost money. When looking at jerseys and comparing prices, get the one with the LONG zipper that comes all the way down to your navel. Hang the cost! It will pay for itself in the long haul. Also, put it on. Zip up the neck. It's nice if you can un-zip the neck with one hand and no fancy finger work. That's a function of fit and design. Helps too if the zipper tab is a decent size.
> 
> For the tourist types -- DON'T secure clothing on the bars. You haven't lived until that shirt comes untied and wraps around the front wheel!



The zipper comments are right on the money. Those cheap "exclamation point" zipper pulls on thin, tight, plastic zipper teeth are crap. Santini and Biemme have nice large rectangular logo pulls with thick, smooth meshing teeth.


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## Jesse D Smith

dr hoo said:


> The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."
> 
> Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.
> 
> The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.
> 
> So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?
> 
> Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.


random tips in no particular order, but numbered for aestetic reasons.

1. When at a stop light, if you need to move over to either side to make room for cars or other bikes, squeeze front brake lever to lock front wheel. Push forward on handlebars effectively executing a slight nose wheelie. The rear end can then easily swing right or left. Let the rear wheel land to which ever side you want to move to (if swinging to right be careful to avoid hitting right calf with chain or chainring). Release front brake and lift front end over to be parallel with rear wheel. You can use this method to lift your bike from street to curb or sidewalk. 

2. Handwritten direction on paper placed in jersey pocket can smear with sweat. Put the paper in a sandwich bag to keep it dry and readable.

3. If your chain drops off a ring, try backpedaling 1/4 turn to re-engage chain onto ring, then pedal forward. 

4. You can park your bike upright, leaning on curb or low ledge by using a pedal and crankarm as a kickstand. To park bike on right pedal, place cranks so right pedal is between 6:30 and 8 o'clock depending on height of curb or ledge. Rest pedal on top of 4"-10"curb or ledge with wheels below level of curb or ledge with tire sidewalls touching and parallel to curb or ledge just like a parked car. Pedal and crank arm act as a kickstand, unable to rotate forward. 

5. When parking bike unlocked at convenience store or cafe, shift to big ring and little cog, then tighten down brakes all the way, so pads pinch rim. Woodbee thieves who try to ride off with it will not be able to pedal away. 

6. When enterring public place like cafe or convenience store, casually carry large water bottle in front of you, low and just below navel to shield your massive junk from innocent eyes. Or you can duct tape Lil Elvis 'tween the cheeks.

7. Plain old vasoline acts as total wind and water proofing for legs.

8. Coat cut off cable ends with Superglue instead of using tip caps. 

9. Applying a bead of ShoeGoo around junction of shoe sole and upper, especially at toe and heel will prevent scuffing and prolong life of shoes. 

10 Make all wheel sensor magnet adjustments off of bike, not while wheel is spinning. This takes some people a bit longer to learn than others. 
From cyclingnews.com
*Contador fractures finger*
Alberto Contador (Liberty Seguros) didn't finish Stage 6 after crashing just 1.5 km into the stage, when he tried to adjust his bike computer sensor and put his hand into his wheel. Contador was taken to hospital where he was diagnosed with an open fracture in the third joint of his right ring finger. He had 15 stitches to the finger, as well as five more in his right thumb.

June 11 does not seem to be an auspicious day for Contador, as last year on this date he had to be operated on to relieve a brain cavernoma that put his cycling career at risk. But Contador is confident that he will be back in action in time for the Tour de France. "I believe that this time there is no risk for the Tour," he said. "Last year I missed it because of the operation, but I believe that this problem only will force me to stay off the bike a couple of days."

Contador is the second rider from Saiz' team that has suffered an accident of this sort. In the 2000 Vuelta a España, during the Rabassa descent in the Pyrenees, Mikel Zarrabeitia (ONCE), also put his hand into the front wheel and his finger had to be partially amputated.


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## xxl

Best tip I haven't seen here is one I learned from a family of racers: when moving your bike in tight quarters (like between two cars in the garage), stand the bike on its rear wheel, holding it by the handlebars, and walk it. It is so much easier that trying to get your bike from scratching the side of your other non-bike stuff, and so simple.


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## HAL9000

Listen to this one kids. XXL is spot on.


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## rePhil

*Did anyone say ID"*

Carry ID, Cell or change for phone, couple of bucks for a snack


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## gotbones

*Carry some first aid supplies*

Hopefully you'll never need to use them, even to help someone else.

If you don't want to carry them in your pocket, put a few band-aids, gauze pads, and alcohol wipes in a baggie and stuff it into your seat post. You can wrap some duct tape around a stick and put it in there too (more useful than adhesive tape) Seal off the bottom of the seat post so you don't have to fish the supplies out of the seat tube. Check it periodically.

A spare tube can be used to apply a splint, brace a fractured clavicle, immobilize a sprained finger, ankle, etc. Mountain bike and cyclocross tubes can be cut up and used for pressure bandages. Road tubes work - just not as well. 

Take a first aid course (call your local Red Cross office.) It'll apply to a lot more than cycling.


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## wunlap togo

Wipe glass off your tires without losing your fingers.


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## bikejr

*...*

ID (I got mine from roadid.com . Definitely made my wife feel better once I started wearing it. Recently in the area on the news were a couple of incidents of people hit on bikes with no ID, and the nightmare of trying to ID/locate someone. I almost wear it all the time now out of habit that way I don't forget it. Also useful on walks/hikes as well, or any activity where you don't want to carry a wallet etc. 

I always carry a cell phone and at least a couple of goo pouches in case I feel bonkish. I've seen some say carry change for the phone.. Well first I hate carrying change on a bicycle... Second it only works if you can even find a pay phone anymore, and if you ride out in the country, not likely...With the increased use of cell phones, pay phones seem to be slowly disappearing from the scene. 

On the other hand, cell phones are pretty common and you can likely find a driver or someone that has one in pretty short order in an emergency. 

Also on carrying the cell phone, if rain, or chance or rain, a nice zip lock plastic baggie works well to protect it as it sits in your seat bag and gets sprayed from the road spray.


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## fred

Bryan said:


> Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.



This one's an old wive's tale. See Jobst Brandt's views: 

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html


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## gcaz

fred said:


> This one's an old wive's tale. See Jobst Brandt's views:
> 
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html


I never heard it reduces flats; I use talcum powder to keep the tube from sticking to the inside of the tire. Makes mounting tires and changing tubes a bit easier and might allow a smidge of slip to reduce wear on the tube (though the latter is purely conjecture).


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## vel0doc

HAL9000 said:


> Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.



Even better is a small stripof xray film--can get from any hospital.


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## symbo

*stairs too!*



xxl said:


> Best tip I haven't seen here is one I learned from a family of racers: when moving your bike in tight quarters (like between two cars in the garage), stand the bike on its rear wheel, holding it by the handlebars, and walk it. It is so much easier that trying to get your bike from scratching the side of your other non-bike stuff, and so simple.


this is the best for going down stairs too. You can even use the rear brakes to help control - helpfull if you've got an old, old house with steep skinny stairways.


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## carbfib

olr1 said:


> Shoes? $100 plus....
> 
> Socks? $1.....
> 
> Put socks over your shoes when it rains.


 cheaper than booties


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## QuiQuaeQuod

A QUICK scan of the tip threads and I did not see this one, but if it is a repeat so what?

When riding past parked cars, look in the side mirror of the cars. This will let you see if anyone is in the driver's seat, and about to pop the door open. You don't have to stare into the mirror, just a glance will show if there is motion inside. This has saved me more than once.


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## ebah4290

I just now learned this yesterday. If you lean the rear wheel against something like a fire hydrant and turn the handlebars toward the object your leaning it against, it will stand on its own. For some of the otherstuff like putting your bike on its back tire to go down stairs, I'm surprised everybody dosn't know that. Of course you could say the same thing about the leaning thing


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## Otterinaround

YES KIDDIES SUPERGLUE!
You can use it to close cuts and wounds after you have cleaned them with your water bottle. THANKS TO A VETERAN MEDIC FOR THIS TIP. They have started using it in the Operating room to close wounds that leave only TINY scars
It can be temporarily used to close slashed tires for the ride home( worked when I was 40K out and I ran over a hidden sharp pipe that was stuck straight out of the ground!)
It even seals skuffs in your paintwork and prevents rust on steel frames.


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## ric426

*Early detection of car motion*

Learned this from a motorcyclist. If you're keeping an eye on a car that's perpendicular to you and may pull out, watch the front wheel. You can detect the motion of the wheel starting to rotate sooner than you'll notice the forward motion of the car itself. Also, if you're watching a car moving in the same or opposite direction as you, again watch the front wheel. You can see it start to turn in your direction before you'll see the car moving over. It may just be a split second advantage, but sometimes that's all it takes to save your butt...


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## jakerson

Ok - two tips. The first one is an opinion... the second is more of a tip. 

IMHO, The best upgrade to a bicycle is not the frame, wheels, components... the best way to improve your bicycle is to upgrade the engine. 

Here's my tip. If you have your road bike shoes on you are stranded with a disabled bike several miles from anywhere and you can't get anyone with your cell phone; take the shoe liner out of your shoes, put it in your socks and put your socks back on - with the shoe liners in your socks. That will give your feet some protection from blisters, and your calves some protection from straining. You may ruin the socks and you may even ruin the shoe inserts, but your feet will be more likely to be blister free.


----------



## bundokbiker

*next time you're in a*

hotel room take the shower caps with you. I use them during rain rides. If it's cold rain it goes under the helmet. If it's warm, most of the caps fit over a helmet. you may look a like a dork, but your head is dry.


----------



## ssif21

*A Variation*

I use rubber bungees from Home Depot hooked over the rail to my garage door. It bounces a bit but works (for under $5).


----------



## Gabriel454

*Never Ever*

NEver EVER force your pedals around when they sudenly jerk to a stop for one reason or another or SOMETHING will in your drivetrain will dynamite!!


*Dynamite:* : verb
to break apart explosively.
*dynamited:* My rear derailer dynamited because I forced my bicycle pedals to complete a revolution.

Never EVER pass moving cars on the right; especially where there are places for them to turn right without warning. Cars that are going slowly enough for you to pass them usually are getting ready for a turn in one direction or another.


----------



## seahuston

Heres one that i don't think has been mentioned. Tired of carrying levers? When you get a flat use the skewer of the wheel you just took off, mkae sure you save the springs and try it first at home, don' t blame me if you're stuck confused in nowheresvillie wiht no levers. This is a major show off skill whne riding with friends.


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## ssif21

seahuston said:


> Heres one that i don't think has been mentioned. Tired of carrying levers? When you get a flat use the skewer of the wheel you just took off, mkae sure you save the springs and try it first at home, don' t blame me if you're stuck confused in nowheresvillie wiht no levers. This is a major show off skill whne riding with friends.


One question: why? To save the 4 of 5 grams of weight that levers add you want to go through the hassle of having to take the skewers completely off AND increasing the chances of tearing the tube during a remount (especially with deep dish wheels)?


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## seahuston

Sorry i was not specific enough, this is good for the days you forget the levers or to imprese a freind (this whole topic). You are right it is not worth it to never carry levers but his has gotten me out of afew jams.


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## Angelracer

Duct tape fixes everything imaginable. Tubes, seat, nice for holding cables down, replaces the broken spedometer mount...


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## ssif21

*Cheap Stuff For Chilly Rides*

Beyond the obvious things when the weather gets cold--long sleeved jerseys, tights, fingered gloves, wool blend socks--the following are cheap and make a huge difference:

--neoprene shoe covers
--mesh backed vest
--wicking skull cap and base layer (Under Armor or equivalent)

Arm warmers are cheaper than buying a bunch of long sleeved jerseys, plus they can be taken off if the weather warms.

The "loose fit" line from Under Armor also makes good, relatively inexpensive jerseys if you can do without zippers and pockets. Plus, they are sized for human Americans instead of pencil-like Italians. (No insult intended--I'd love to be a pencil-like Italian.)


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## dbmcclus

*Cell Phone / ICE Program*

Most of you have probably already heard of an emergency program called "ICE". It stands for "In Case of Emergency". Please see the link below. A paramedic in England started this movement. Just program the word "ICE" in front of a contact on your cell phone such as "ICE Home" or ICE Judy" ect... If you are in an accident, paramedics and doctors are trained to look for this entry in your cell phone. 

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/07/17/AR2005071700879.html


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## TeddyO

*Carry two Spares*

I had a haunted Mexican Bike--if y'all remember Windsor--and it KNEW if I only had one spare and it would invariably toss two flats at me on long rides. Once I started carrying two spares, it stopped doing that. Subsequent bikes have not been haunted (or if they were, they liked me) but I never stopped carrying two spares. A spoke tool is also a necessity. On some bikes I carried spare spokes taped to one of the frame elements, that helped to ward off broken spokes. It you assume that your bike's out to get ya, you will be prepared for anything.




Coolhand said:


> Simple stuff that's good to know:
> 
> 1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.
> 
> 2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.
> 
> 3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.


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## Powder Hound

> Arm warmers are cheaper than buying a bunch of long sleeved jerseys, plus they can be taken off if the weather warms.


NO DOUBT. Leg and arm warmers essentially quadruple your winter wardrobe.

Use your jersey pockets.

Learn to trackstand, at least for the length of a stoplight.

Get a singlespeed bike (if you don't want to go fixed) to get back to basic pedaling focus.

Drink before you are thirsty.


----------



## SEJ

*Haven't seen these yet. Enjoy!*


Don't buy $80 winter cycling gloves. Go to a hunting store (or even Big 5) and get some winter hunting gloves. You can get the same neoprine weldes seem fleece lined gloves that the cycling companies sell - for about $25. The ones I have even have reduced thickness on the trigger finger - good for better braking feel.


Does your computer ever stop working in the rain? Sometimes water can get in between the computer and the contacts on the mounts. Go to the hardware store and buy some Lightbulb Grease (yes - lightbulb grease) It's a dialectric grease that conducts, but will prevent moisture from getting in. A dab on each contact and you'll never have problems again. Works great on powertaps, which are notorious for losing cadence in the rain.


And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).


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## cyclefiend2000

where i live lots of people let their dogs roam free. if you are being chased by a snarling dog, give them a quick blast of water from a water bottle. it wont harm the dog and he wont harm you.


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## S2H

SEJ said:


> And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).


----------



## Mr. Versatile

Lots of good tips on this thread. 

I always carry my spare tubes in a ziplock bag with a little baby powder sprinkled in. This acts as a dry lube to help fix flats on the road. Zip lock bags are also great for cell phones & anything else that can't get wet.

I always carry a fairly small rag in my seat bag. I'ts useful for wiping hands if need be. I also lay it out flat and roll up tire levers, change, keys, etc in the rag. This keeps them from jingling / clanking when on the road.

*NEVER, EVER* carry keys, or anything else sharp in your jersey or shorts pocket. In the event of a fall, even a very minor one, these can cause grevious wounds. Also don't even think about riding without bar ends. Same thing as the keys.

I keep a 3.5 x 5 plastic laminated index card in my helmet with all pertinent info, e.g., name, address, phone, current meds, allergies, emergency contact person & any other med info that would be useful in an emergency.

A very simple preventative maint. tip. Look at your tires before you ride. Just spin them slowly & look for cuts, imbedded objects, etc.

The best way to check out your bike is to clean it. You get a close up look at everything if you do even a half a**ed job. I do the nasty parts, (chain, drive train), 1st. When using lube, remember that less is more. Too much just attracts dust, dirt, gravel, and defeats the purpose of lubing in the 1st place.

When cleaning, if my bike isn't caked with mud, I use Pledge furniture cleaner. It shines great, is very easy to use, and makes your bike smell good, too. . I spray it on everything, then wipe. It's fast & easy. I remove the wheels, spray all the spokes hubs, rims, and even a little on the tires. No, it does NOT make your rims and or tires slippery, so the brakes work normally & the tires grip like they always did.

One thing that really drives me nutz is squeaking cleats. I use Looks. I like them very much, but I think probably almost all cleats are a bit prone to creaking where they touch the pedal. A sure-fire fix for this is to spray both the pedal and the cleat surfaces they contact with WD40. Wipe'em off real good. If you only spray the cleats where they actually touch the pedal and wipe them off, you won't have any trouble walking on them.


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## Mr. Versatile

Scotty2Hotty said:


>


Or you could just lean out a little bit & blow snot rockets.


----------



## fleck

Bryan said:


> Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.


its an old wives tale. A tube sticks to the tire when the ruber is deteriorating. Temp swings from hot to cold will attribute as will age. If your tube is sticking this is a good sign its time to replace that tube. 

Some have also said that it helps prevent holes because it cuts down on friction between the tube and tire. Also an old wives tale. The tube and tire act as one because of all the pressure in there.

until recently i've done the baby powder for years. Not noticing any more flats because of not doing it.

best advice for a tire... inflate to 20 psi and then roll the tire off and back onto the rim all around it. this makes sure you don't have any tube pinched between the tire bead and the rim. 

inspect your tires very carefully when changing a tube. Only one thing caused your flat but there are probably a few other obstructions waiting to give you your next.


----------



## Guest

how do you do the thing with the brakes. I cant seem to get them to stay shut. i must be missing something totally stupid. 

1. When at a stop light, if you need to move over to either side to make room for cars or other bikes, squeeze front brake lever to lock front wheel. Push forward on handlebars effectively executing a slight nose wheelie. The rear end can then easily swing right or left. Let the rear wheel land to which ever side you want to move to (if swinging to right be careful to avoid hitting right calf with chain or chainring). Release front brake and lift front end over to be parallel with rear wheel. You can use this method to lift your bike from street to curb or sidewalk. 

2. Handwritten direction on paper placed in jersey pocket can smear with sweat. Put the paper in a sandwich bag to keep it dry and readable.

3. If your chain drops off a ring, try backpedaling 1/4 turn to re-engage chain onto ring, then pedal forward. 

4. You can park your bike upright, leaning on curb or low ledge by using a pedal and crankarm as a kickstand. To park bike on right pedal, place cranks so right pedal is between 6:30 and 8 o'clock depending on height of curb or ledge. Rest pedal on top of 4"-10"curb or ledge with wheels below level of curb or ledge with tire sidewalls touching and parallel to curb or ledge just like a parked car. Pedal and crank arm act as a kickstand, unable to rotate forward. 

5. When parking bike unlocked at convenience store or cafe, shift to big ring and little cog, then tighten down brakes all the way, so pads pinch rim. Woodbee thieves who try to ride off with it will not be able to pedal away. 

6. When enterring public place like cafe or convenience store, casually carry large water bottle in front of you, low and just below navel to shield your massive junk from innocent eyes. Or you can duct tape Lil Elvis 'tween the cheeks.

7. Plain old vasoline acts as total wind and water proofing for legs.

8. Coat cut off cable ends with Superglue instead of using tip caps. 

9. Applying a bead of ShoeGoo around junction of shoe sole and upper, especially at toe and heel will prevent scuffing and prolong life of shoes. 

10 Make all wheel sensor magnet adjustments off of bike, not while wheel is spinning. This takes some people a bit longer to learn than others. 
From cyclingnews.com
*Contador fractures finger*
Alberto Contador (Liberty Seguros) didn't finish Stage 6 after crashing just 1.5 km into the stage, when he tried to adjust his bike computer sensor and put his hand into his wheel. Contador was taken to hospital where he was diagnosed with an open fracture in the third joint of his right ring finger. He had 15 stitches to the finger, as well as five more in his right thumb.

June 11 does not seem to be an auspicious day for Contador, as last year on this date he had to be operated on to relieve a brain cavernoma that put his cycling career at risk. But Contador is confident that he will be back in action in time for the Tour de France. "I believe that this time there is no risk for the Tour," he said. "Last year I missed it because of the operation, but I believe that this problem only will force me to stay off the bike a couple of days."

Contador is the second rider from Saiz' team that has suffered an accident of this sort. In the 2000 Vuelta a Espa񡬪during the Rabassa descent in the Pyrenees, Mikel Zarrabeitia (ONCE), also put his hand into the front wheel and his finger had to be partially amputated.[/QUOTE]


----------



## msohio

*Pulling Back on the Bars*

I refuse to admit how long it took me when I started to ride a road bike a lot to figure out that you really had to pull back from the bars with your arms when you wanted to generate power. I started just turning the cranks and pushed against the friction of my butt on the seat. Then one day I leaned back and pulled my arms tight from the bars--BINGO--power!! Simple to understand now but it sure was not when I started. IMO, The arms are much more active in generating power than a beginner thinks.


----------



## ghostrider64

Tip: When changing out components be sure and grease them. (at least in most cases) In steel it reduces the chance of rusting and makes all further ins and out much easier.

Suggestion is to join a cycling club/org...I learned more from riding a few group rides than I could have learned in a year of solo. Be sure you learn to draft properly. Nothing worse than being slammed from behind because someone did know what "slowing" meant....

I would love to promote these guys as they have a great organization....

http://www.cascade.org/Home/


BTW spend the first 3 or 4 months riding in the small chainring only. This will aid you in building up a base. You'll be amazed how quick you are when you get to the big ring later.


----------



## iliveonnitro

SEJ said:


> And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).





Maybe it's late or I'm too big of a noob, but that went right over me... "sits in during a race break?" "take pulls?" "boogs?" What the hell do those mean?


----------



## rtucker

dbmcclus said:


> Most of you have probably already heard of an emergency program called "ICE". It stands for "In Case of Emergency". Please see the link below. A paramedic in England started this movement. Just program the word "ICE" in front of a contact on your cell phone such as "ICE Home" or ICE Judy" ect... If you are in an accident, paramedics and doctors are trained to look for this entry in your cell phone.
> 
> http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/07/17/AR2005071700879.html


But my drug dealer's name is Ice!!


----------



## rtucker

iliveonnitro said:


> Maybe it's late or I'm too big of a noob, but that went right over me... "sits in during a race break?" "take pulls?" "boogs?" What the hell do those mean?


Uhm, I'm a noob, too, but taking a guess. "sits in during a race break" = sitting in a draft in between sprints or attacks without taking the lead, which leads to "take pulls" = pulling, or being in front and pulling those drafting behind you. The last one I know for sure, "boogs" = boogers, that crusty crap in your nose.


----------



## Edgecrusher

dfleck said:


> its an old wives tale. A tube sticks to the tire when the ruber is deteriorating. Temp swings from hot to cold will attribute as will age. If your tube is sticking this is a good sign its time to replace that tube.
> 
> Some have also said that it helps prevent holes because it cuts down on friction between the tube and tire. Also an old wives tale. The tube and tire act as one because of all the pressure in there.
> 
> until recently i've done the baby powder for years. Not noticing any more flats because of not doing it.
> 
> best advice for a tire... inflate to 20 psi and then roll the tire off and back onto the rim all around it. this makes sure you don't have any tube pinched between the tire bead and the rim.
> 
> inspect your tires very carefully when changing a tube. Only one thing caused your flat but there are probably a few other obstructions waiting to give you your next.


I've been lucky enough not to get a flat on my Mercier for over two years now.
When I first got the bike, I replaced the tires and sprayed the tubes with a pure
silicone spray - I use CRC from Grainger, but there are plenty of others available
at hardware or auto stores. Silicone spray is amazing, and significantly reduces
the drying out of rubber, vinyl, and related products. Over 2 years later and the tubes,

which I just checked last week, were still like new. 
They don't stick to the rims either. Living in NJ/PA area the climate sees extreme temperture swings. 
I also use silicone spray on the cables and inside the hoods. 

On a side note, I have been using silicone on my vehicles for over 15 years. 
The belts and hoses, battery cables, a dab inside the spark plug wire caps,
Rubber suspension parts, inside the door locks, weather stripping, etc. 
It is amazing how much it extends the useful life and keeps parts from rotting 
and drying out. It's great around the house as well. I call it the wonder chemical.


----------



## Mr. Versatile

rtucker said:


> Uhm, I'm a noob, too, but taking a guess. "sits in during a race break" = sitting in a draft in between sprints or attacks without taking the lead, which leads to "take pulls" = pulling, or being in front and pulling those drafting behind you. The last one I know for sure, "boogs" = boogers, that crusty crap in your nose.


Right you are!


----------



## Drewdane

jakerson said:


> IMHO, The best upgrade to a bicycle is not the frame, wheels, components... the best way to improve your bicycle is to upgrade the engine.


So... You're saying I should sell my bike?


----------



## iherald

This might be more mental then actually helpful, but I find when climbing a big hill if I keep my body relaxed, and especially my face, I feel better at the top.

A tense body likely takes a lot of energy, and looking calm seems to rub off. It also makes other people think you're feeling better then you are. 

If you're at a red light and are sneaking up beside a car (on the right, I do it all the time) I will only try to move beside the car if I know I have time to stick half my bike in front of the car. That way I know they see me. If I think the light is turning, or I'll have problems getting by the car, I don't attempt it.

I also often look back and smile at them. That way they know I'm friendly, and usually they don't try to hit me.


----------



## BozemanboB

*Fighting calf cramps*

I really only get crampy if I've been off the bike for a while and am trying to get back in shape, or if my spin isn't as refined as it needs to be. Some people are more prone to cramps, like a fellow I used to ride with in Arizona. He taught me the following trick:

Some people carry a banana and eat it if/when they get a calf cramp. I carry tums in a zip-lock baggie in a jersey pocket. For me they work very quickly, but I've got to be quick with a chaser or else the chalkiness of the tums gums up my whole mouth.

Has saved my butt (or, rather, legs) on a few occasions!


----------



## smiley

*air in the tires*

before every ride..top up your air


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## asciibaron

being able to adjust 105 brakes correctly - i don't care how uncool you are, if you can get the 105 to not drag on the rim, you're my hero

-steve


----------



## asciibaron

double

-steve


----------



## Tugboat

cycling said:


> i third the no tool/tire off method
> 
> and to learn that it takes...well.........practice
> 
> i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_



I'd like to see that... How many psi can you get blowing up the tube with your mouth?


----------



## California L33

Tim M said:


> With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.


$100 bill to impress the hotties, $1 bill if you're poor. Actually, I was amazed when I bought a spare tube. The LBS guy asked if I had a tire boot. I told him no. He tore the end off the tube box and handed it to me. I've never cut a tire badly enough to need one one, but it looks like about the right size, shape, and thickness.


----------



## lawrence

*Lube lower chain, not upper chain*

When you lube your chain, put one drop of chain lube on each roller on the lower chain, the chain loop that's closest to the ground. If you lube the upper chain, it will drip on the chain stays, tires, and rims. Then you will have to wipe down the bike, clean the rims with alcohol, because if you ride it, the lube will get in the brake pads and cause squealing besides longer stopping distances.


----------



## Mootsie

*The stroke*

How about the most basic motion in cycling: the pedal stroke. I've seen people who have been riding for years that still don't understand that the most efficient stroke is similar to scaping mud off your shoe while the other foot pushes forward, not down, producing a nice "circle". Most riders pedal up and down in a piston like motion which produces a "square" and many a sore quad.


----------



## madhattaz

Passing gas on an ascent will give you the extra boost you need to get over the hump. 

This works in race, TT, tri, any occasions.


----------



## john617

msohio said:


> I refuse to admit how long it took me when I started to ride a road bike a lot to figure out that you really had to pull back from the bars with your arms when you wanted to generate power. I started just turning the cranks and pushed against the friction of my butt on the seat. Then one day I leaned back and pulled my arms tight from the bars--BINGO--power!! Simple to understand now but it sure was not when I started. IMO, The arms are much more active in generating power than a beginner thinks.


I think it has more to do with the lats then it does with the arms (think of rows), though the tri's are a major component in the stabilization. [Just ride where there are a lot of traffic lights and take note of what primary muscles are being used when initiating momentum and speed.] IMO, keeping your lats in shape is just as important as keeping your quads and hams in shape.


----------



## Mr. Versatile

Electric motors put ozone into the air. Storing your bike near a motor will greatly reduce tire life, may dry out & crack bar tape and synthetic seat materials. Got your bike stored in the basement near the furnace? I'd move it.


----------



## Roadplay

Use Vaseline (cold days) on your cheek bones to prevent wind burns. In a pinch, use chapstick.

Consider buying $8 safety classes at Wal-Mart. If you haven’t checked them out lately, they come in some cool styles that look like high end models. I’m always breaking my riding glasses, so this is the way I go. Now my personal classes, that’s a different story.


----------



## ciclisto

+cheap workstand- place the large "C" hooks with the threaded ends into the ceiling of the garage. then wrap a sock around the bottom area and , are you ready secure with duct tape. then you have a soft perch for your wheel rim to hang either end of the bike and put it in any position you like. I also place others in reach to hang wheels while I'm working. Also if you have a really nice paint job, almost pure carnuba wax without abrasives will keep your paint looking new. I have a 20 year old bike paint is still great, but it doesn't rain here. Put Wax on with bare hand, melts wax done in 15minutes.


----------



## Jack Hammer

*Clean and empty your water bottle...*

...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it.

To get rid of built up taste use dental cleanser tablets, like effordent. My favorite is the store brand that's ~$4 for 100 tablets. Fill your bottle with warm water and drop one or two tablets in, dependent on bottle size, and let it sit. It will keep your bottles from developing that nasty taste.

Jack

BTW, putting talc in dirt bike (motorcycle) tires works great to help avoid flats and tears. I tried it in road bike tires and found it only makes a mess and gave no benefit that I could tell.


----------



## California L33

Jack Hammer said:


> ...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it.
> 
> To get rid of built up taste use dental cleanser tablets, like effordent. My favorite is the store brand that's ~$4 for 100 tablets. Fill your bottle with warm water and drop one or two tablets in, dependent on bottle size, and let it sit. It will keep your bottles from developing that nasty taste.
> 
> Jack
> 
> BTW, putting talc in dirt bike (motorcycle) tires works great to help avoid flats and tears. I tried it in road bike tires and found it only makes a mess and gave no benefit that I could tell.


I've been using special bottle cleaning tablets in my SIGG bottles. Now I know what they remind me of- and they cost a lot more than $4 for a 100. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## MerlinAma

Jack Hammer said:


> ...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it..


I use a baby bottle brush with a sponge end to get my bike bottles really clean.


----------



## lawrence

It's a special deal. I do financial planning and I've saved the bike store owner thousands on his income tax by sharing with him some tax and financial strategies. He was so thrilled that he said he'd take care of me when I needed something. Now I need something and this is what he's doing for me.

But I just came back from another bike store and tried on a pair of Sidi Dominator 5, Sidi Genius 5, Diadora Team Racer, Diadora Ergo Plus, and the most comfortable for my feet was the Diadora Ergo Plus so I'll probably buy those.


----------



## Remyrw

*huh?*

I guess that last post went the wrong place.


----------



## TrekJeff

For those of use switching over to the semi roadie scene from MTB's, I've been told that a well powdered 26" tube when inflated will fit onto a 700 rim. Just make sure the width of the tube isn't a down hill size. Smaller than 2.1 should work ok in a pinch. I have a couple prestas from a bike that got ripped of and was wonding what I was going to do with them, no I know they can work as my idiot bike tube like the donuts used on autos.


----------



## California L33

TrekJeff said:


> For those of use switching over to the semi roadie scene from MTB's, I've been told that a well powdered 26" tube when inflated will fit onto a 700 rim. Just make sure the width of the tube isn't a down hill size. Smaller than 2.1 should work ok in a pinch. I have a couple prestas from a bike that got ripped of and was wonding what I was going to do with them, no I know they can work as my idiot bike tube like the donuts used on autos.


Interesting, but why? Even good tubes are inexpensive, and using the wrong size sounds like it's inviting a blowout- and they're no fun.


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## Mr. Versatile

I just returned from a trip from Ohio to Albany, N.Y. and back. I had some unfortunate flat tire luck. I needed a tube badly, but there were no bike stores within 50 miles. I went to a Walmart, and the only thing they had that was close was a 26" x 1 3/8" schrader valve tube. I was riding 27 x 1 1/4 tires, and the rims were drilled for schraders. I bought a couple of them. Fortunately, I didn't have to use them, but I figured they'd do if needed.


----------



## Dr. Placebo

From a noob:

- My super cheap/thrifty substitute for a work stand is a ladder. I have a rather tall utility ladder in the house and I prop the hook the nose of the saddle on one of the joints that holds the ladder together. Best way I could figure to tune my drivetrain without the appropriate implement.

- Here's another cheap-o idea which may be a repeat or stollen idea (I'm not taking credit for this): I cut the top off of a gatorade bottle and use it to hold my tube, lever (speedlevers rock by the way), phone, cards and money. It goes in my seattube mounted cage.

- Be sure to angle any lights you have towards drivers. It makes no sense to have your taillight pointing straight back or into the bushes (unless it's a Dinotte anyways).

- once you figure out that your handlebars are centered on the stem, mount your headlight or front reflector right against the stem on the handlbar. That way if you ever need to change a stem or mount/dismount the handlebar for any reason you won't have to worry about centering and leveling it at the same time.

- I've had a good experience using foaming sneaker cleaner (from foot action or the like) in cleaning my bike. No long term observations though.

- To clean the cassette remove the rear wheel, insert a scrap of towel or tshirt between cogs, and pull side to side. This will ratchet the cassette and allow you to remove caked on gunk easily.


----------



## brujenn

*Cold weather riding*

If you get cold enough that you feel the need to stop at Starbucks and warm up, pick one that is in a place where you will be riding up at least a shallow incline when it's time to go. If you leave and go even slightly _downhill_, you'll freeze extra deep - you didn't fully warm up in the coffee shop, but your internal furnace did shut all the way down.

In hard winter, the ride down the hill is the punishment for the ride up the hill. Or just get really great winter gear.


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## ilpirati

Cool thread...lots of things that I know...but also others that I didn`t. I`ll try to contribute

If you need to change a tubular tire and don`t have rim cement or other type of latex based adhesive , after removing the tire , rub the surface of the rim with gas or whatever solvent you can find, leave it a minute or so then mount the new tubular tire. !!This is just a temporary solution!!


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## mbcracken

Lean the rear wheel against the tire of your car when dealing with loading/unloading for a ride. This way if the bike falls, it won't "key" your car paint job.

Fenders are a good thing in the rain.

That's all for now.

Cheers,
Mike


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## otakunorth

mbcracken said:


> Lean the rear wheel against the tire of your car when dealing with loading/unloading for a ride. This way if the bike falls, it won't "key" your car paint job.
> 
> Fenders are a good thing in the rain.
> 
> That's all for now.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mike


now i know that...


----------



## Mr. Versatile

One of the most uncomfortable situations in which to find yourself on a bicycle is riding down a relatively narrow 2 lane road with significant traffic in both directions. This, IME, is a scary situation for even very experienced riders. When there's oncoming traffic, cars following you will attempt to pass regardless if there's enough room. his results in them either passing way too closely, or you getting crowded off the road. If you can't avoid the road, which would be my 1st choice, here's the proper way to handle the situation. 

It's called "taking the lane." Look behind you to see how far behind following traffic is from you. If they are a safe distance behind, meaning they don't have to slam on their brakes to avoid you, move out to the left tire track of the lane you're in and stay there until there's a break in oncoming traffic. When there's a break so that cars can pass you safely, kmove far to the right & wave them by. OK, this takes guts. Motorists may get angry, but they won't hit you. You might get some long horn honks, possible a gesture or two, maybe even some yelling, but you'll get home safely. Beginning riders, and even some very experienced riders are loathe to do this. It works. It's a hell of a lot better than being passed at 50 mph by a school bus that's close enough for you to reach out & touch. Be courteous, be understanding, be thoughtful, and also be assertive. You *DO*have a right to be there. Letting them crowd you is very dangerous. Taking the lane is not.


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## lawrence

I 100% agree with Mr. Versatile. Please take the lane for your protection. Ignore the honking and the yells at you out out the car window. You need to protect yourself! Take the lane. I also like a helmet mirror so I can see when the cars are coming so I'm not as surprised and find myself suddenly jerk on the bike and inadvertently do something stupid because I was surprised.


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## HannahG

My favorite tip of all time is this:
sudden chilly day riding? old socks are much cheaper than shoe covers, just cut a hole for the cleat-wide enough around to not interfere-and you're good to go.


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## Joshua Finch

From a new rider

Yoga.

It is a lot more fun than you might think, and it really helps not only your body but your mind. I can't believe how relaxed I am after only doing it for an hour twice a week. So if you have a lot of stress sign up for yoga with a friend and go!


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## BobHatcher

You've got to have a sock that is a whole lot bigger than your normal size to fit over the shoe.


This thread reminds me of what R&D really means... "R"ip-off & "D"uplicate!


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## Mr. Versatile

BobHatcher said:


> You've got to have a sock that is a whole lot bigger than your normal size to fit over the shoe.
> 
> 
> This thread reminds me of what R&D really means... "R"ip-off & "D"uplicate!


I'm not sure what you meant by your R & D comment, Bob. Could you explain?


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## BobHatcher

Mr. Versatile said:


> I'm not sure what you meant by your R & D comment, Bob. Could you explain?


Most people thing R&D means Research & Development when it really means Rip-off & Duplicate. There aren't many really new ideas, just reformulations of old ones. This post does that. It shares common knowledge, or at least what's common to some and not others.


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## Mr. Versatile

BobHatcher said:


> Most people thing R&D means Research & Development when it really means Rip-off & Duplicate. There aren't many really new ideas, just reformulations of old ones. This post does that. It shares common knowledge, or at least what's common to some and not others.


OK. I know what you mean. I've posted several tips for beginners on this thread, and I have to say that most of them I learned from other people. Does that make me bad? Am I ripping off others when I do that? I don't think so. I believe that there's very little new under the sun. To come up with a genuinely new idea that nobody's ever had before is a considerable task. I've done it a few times, as I'm sure you probably have. But to "dis" a whole forum (at least it seems to me like that's what you were doing) because people are posting advice and tips that were not original to them is foolish. Why do we teach history? Well, because people are not born with that knowledge, and it's beneficial for them to have it. Same thing with any subject. Nothing wrong with shared knowledge. I've learned a couple of neat tricks here, and I've been adult riding for a little over 50 years.


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## BobHatcher

No, I wasn't dissing anyone. I use that term all the time for my own ideas and thought it was fun. Don't be so serious!


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## Mr. Versatile

Thanks Bob. I guess I just misunderstood. It's all good.

Peace.


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## Gable454

*Beginning rider tips to new riders*

I've only been riding a couple years, have done a couple group rides and these are some things that made a big difference for me.

1. Clipless pedals-revolutionized my riding. Took me 9 months before I went clipless, but Shimano and Pearl Izumi have entry level combos that are good bang for the buck.
2. Make sure your water supply is good. I do like the thermal bottles and like a cool drink.
3. Don't get cheap on the riding pants. You need to spend time in the seat, so make sure your bike fits and your pants are padded!
4. It's always good to have someone to share the ride. My wife goes along with me roadbiking now, and a shared experience is even better. 
5. Find cyclist who want to promote the sport. Lord knows there are are tons of "Lance wannabees" out there who will look down their nose at you for not spending as much on your bike as your car, but they are of little significance. True sporting people encourage newbies. Find them, they will teach you a ton and make the learning fun. 
6. Finally, I do grab the water bottle with my left hand so if I have to hit the brakes, it will be the back ones, thereby saving a flip over the handlebars. And I do grab the seat with my left hand when looking back over my left shoulder for increased stability. 
7. Have fun or you won't do it. There are 500,000 knee replacements done in the US annually. Cycling is fun and will preserve your joints into old age.


----------



## boldwarrior

Grease on hands from changing wheel etc and no rag - use grass as a wipe. Simply wipe ya hands back n forth on the grass to remove up to 80% of the grease on the grass instead of your handlebar tape and jersey. Works well if slight moisture on grass, otherwise spit on hands and rub into grass. Green grass that is.


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## VaughnA

The easiest way to prevent your bike from falling over is to go ahead and lay it on the ground, drive side up. I've had my bike fall leaning against something or pedal on the curb. And it doesn't get scratched by posts or walls. It's never fallen over when on the ground. Just make sure it isn't in a place where someone may walk on it.


----------



## jturcot2

Hey all, I have a question about painting. I am looking to paint my new frame, with a matt finish. I want a flat solid black finish. I have looked online but have been unable to find a clear answer. what i'm looking for is advice on how to do it in house, and try to keep it cheap, but i know the less you spend the worse it looks. Any tips??


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## lawrence

This is the wrong post for this topic. You should move it and make a separate post.

Take off all the components, sand it, buy yourself a can of spray paint or a spray gun and do it yourself. Go to an auto body/paint store and buy auto paint.

Another option is to go to a body shop and ask them to paint your bike. It would probably be best to ask a body shop to paint the bike a color that they are in the process of painting a car. This way they don't have to clean their spray gun.


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## iliveonnitro

Make a new thread in the General forum and you'll get a LOT more replies. Also tell us what the frame material is, etc.


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## eebowler

lawrence said:


> If you lube the upper chain, it will drip on the chain stays, tires, and rims. Then you will have to wipe down the bike, clean the rims with alcohol, because if you ride it, the lube will get in the brake pads and cause squealing besides longer stopping distances.


Sounds to me like this is a case of putting too much lube. There is no reason for excess lube to be dripping off the chain. If there is excess, wipe off with a rag before riding.

My little contribution: If you have to touch the chain to put on a rear wheel or to undo chain suck, use your tire levers instead of your fingers. If fingers do get dirty, rub them or the road, tires, soles of your shoes etc, to get the grease off.

Use wet-lube for rainy periods and the dry lube (teflon/wax etc) for dryer times.


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## Fsharp3

It always surprises me how many lube/chain problems people have. I use a wet lube 100% of the time and I never have any problems. 

Once a week here how I treat my chain.
Step One - Wipe down the chain
Step Two - Spin the Pedals and spray the chain
Step Three - With a clean rag, wipe the excess off the chain
Done


----------



## BobHatcher

*What brand of lube do you use?*

I've been using Pedro's Dry Lube and it seems to work great. No issues. What do you use?


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## Fsharp3

Whatever is on sale when I run out. White Lightning is what I got last time. I thought the spray bottle would make it easier but its really more of a pain. Unless you're really careful, the spray gets everywhere. I learned that the hard way when I cleaned by bike and the lubed the chain ... and then had to clean the bike again ...


----------



## LostViking

*About this Thread*

After a twenty year hiatus, I'm thinking about getting back on a road bike again for fitness reasons. Used to get to work on a powder blue Centurion and loved it. Now shopping for a good beginer road bike to suit me (6' 4", 215 lbs and 40+ years old). 
I just wanted to thank the contributors to this thread for all of this great advice - someone should put this into a book! 
Any ideas on a good starter bike and could someone explain the pros and cons of clips vs clipless pedals? Thanks.


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## hiah

This one comes from the world of mtb'ing, but works on road bikes and cyclocross bikes as well:

If you do any of your own maintenance, getting the dirt and grit out of allen-head screws and bolts so the allen wrench can be inserted can be a bit of a pain. Next time, after you clean the hole out and have finished working on the bike and put the screw back in, fill the hole with a small bit of RTV Silicone (known better as gasket sealer).

Next time you need to tighten/loosen that screw, the little blob of gasket sealer will come out with very little work. This gasket sealer can be found in the automotive section of Wal-mart.


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## hiah

This isn't exactly the best thread for it, but I didn't want to start a new one or dig up a old thread. I found this clipless shoe sizing chart: http://www2.bsn.de/Cycling/shoe-sizing.html

It's dated 1997, so some of the info may not be right anymore, I don't know, but the US Men's shoe size conversion to Specialized and Sidi are correct, at least for me, so hopefully this can help someone else who is shopping for clipless shoes.


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## RBS

I really like the 3 pronged allen wrenches with 3, 4, 5 mm ends. They really speed up wrenching and you don't waste time searching for that allen wrench you just had in your hand. One wrench fits just about everything on the bike!!


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## willtsmith_nwi

OES said:


> When you come to an obstacle in the road, push down, pull up, hop over. The first time you manage it -- well, talk about an amazed newbie.


Take a piece of cardboard and wrap duck tape around it. This can be used for all manner of things. The tape can be used for a great number of things.





Gable454 said:


> 6. Finally, I do grab the water bottle with my left hand so if I have to hit the brakes, it will be the back ones, thereby saving a flip over the handlebars. And I do grab the seat with my left hand when looking back over my left shoulder for increased stability.


.

The front brake is the only one that's really effective.


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## TwoTonesTony

a tip to amaze a new rider, from a new rider. This is a lesson I learned about 15 min ago on my ride.

If you see a seem in the road (like from where two different pavement jobs come together), and that seem is parallel to your riding, DO NOT gradually cross this seem. It WILL catch your tire, you WILL lose control, and you WILL fall down or lose control and slam into a fence.

...I'm just sayin.... it could happen.


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## California L33

TwoTonesTony said:


> a tip to amaze a new rider, from a new rider. This is a lesson I learned about 15 min ago on my ride.
> 
> If you see a seem in the road (like from where two different pavement jobs come together), and that seem is parallel to your riding, DO NOT gradually cross this seem. It WILL catch your tire, you WILL lose control, and you WILL fall down or lose control and slam into a fence.
> 
> ...I'm just sayin.... it could happen.


Ouch- sorry you learned the hard way. Always jump those or cross at a sharp angle.


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## willtsmith_nwi

Deleted


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## GerryR

Same goes for RR crossing, especially if there is gravel at the crossing. Gravel and polished steel make you think you're riding on ball bearings. I saw a guy take a really nasty spill at a crossing because of that.


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## snowgor

put your extra tube/tools/money/etc. in a travel box for bar soap in your jersey pocket. works nice and is always ready to go


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## Peanya

Be able to tell your fellow riding friends how you've gone 500+ miles without a flat! 

If you're anywhere close to 200 pounds, don't use 23's, use 25's (or even 28's). Make sure to check the pressure before every ride. Watch where you are riding!

When you see it's usually one person who constantly gets flats, it's most likely one of three things: not enough air in the tire causes pinch flats when riding over things, not paying attention and running over too much stuff, and the rider weighs too much for the tire width. 

This happened to me, and I've learned the hard way. If this sounds like you, now you know!


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## California L33

Peanya said:


> Be able to tell your fellow riding friends how you've gone 500+ miles without a flat!
> 
> If you're anywhere close to 200 pounds, don't use 23's, use 25's (or even 28's). Make sure to check the pressure before every ride. Watch where you are riding!
> 
> When you see it's usually one person who constantly gets flats, it's most likely one of three things: not enough air in the tire causes pinch flats when riding over things, not paying attention and running over too much stuff, and the rider weighs too much for the tire width.
> 
> This happened to me, and I've learned the hard way. If this sounds like you, now you know!


In my experience flats are caused by running over something sharp- like goats head thorns (puncturevine) or broken glass. Though I've taken to using 25s for comfort I've used 23's with no problems as long as they're correctly inflated- 110 psi plus (as long as the tires are rated for it- Clydes shouldn't buy any that aren't). I've been hovering at right around the 200 lbs. area for over a year, and just checked. It's been 994 miles since my last flat on Continental 4000s 25s, and I know I've done that on Armadillo Elite 23s. I avoid avoidable bumps, and lift for unavoidable bumps, and since I renewed my interest in cycling a few years ago I've had one pinch flat in about 15,000 miles. So you're right, Clydes aren't doomed to pinch flats, but I wouldn't discount 23s if you've got an iron butt. I do remember switching from 23s to 25s and asking, 'Who replaced my road bike with a comfort bike?' It was not a subtle difference.


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## Peanya

I've had 2 puncture flats on my cheap Kenda 25's. I've had at least 6 pinch flats on my Ultra Sport 23's - aired up to ~115psi. Now riding 4000's, and you're right, they ride amazingly different from 23's.


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## austincrx

*Great winter riding tip*

is to use some tape (clear probably) to cover the holes in the front of your helmet. This will keep the wind out and keep your head warm. While allowing air to escape through the back holes/vents. You should make a tab at the front of each piece so if you get too hot, you can reach up and tear a vent-cover off and just stick it to your jersey for safe keeping. This really helped me out. It's much easier/cheaper than buying a helmet cover or head sock.

But if it is so cold outside that your nose seems to always be frozen, then just get a bellaclava for 10-20 dollars. It's WELL worth the money. Not to mention some booties.


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## lawrence

Instead of using tape because it may pull off lettering off the helmet and may leave a sticky residue come spring, also once it's on there, on warm days, you won't be able to remove the heat easily. Try a .33 plastic shower cap from the $1 store (3 for a dollar). Cheap, lasts a long time (I'm on my 3rd year with the same shower cap), collapsible to be stored in your pocket, it's easily installed and removed off the helmet, keeps your head warm, rain proof, you can put holes in it and on warmer days turn the shower cap so the holes are facing the front to vent and on colder days turn the shower caps the holes are facing the rear, I put no holes in mine and decide to keep it on or remove it, if it gets too warm when you are riding, it's easily removable and stored in your pocket.


----------



## austincrx

lawrence said:


> Instead of using tape because it may pull off lettering off the helmet and may leave a sticky residue come spring, also once it's on there, on warm days, you won't be able to remove the heat easily. Try a .33 plastic shower cap from the $1 store (3 for a dollar). Cheap, lasts a long time (I'm on my 3rd year with the same shower cap), collapsible to be stored in your pocket, it's easily installed and removed off the helmet, keeps your head warm, rain proof, you can put holes in it and on warmer days turn the shower cap so the holes are facing the front to vent and on colder days turn the shower caps the holes are facing the rear, I put no holes in mine and decide to keep it on or remove it, if it gets too warm when you are riding, it's easily removable and stored in your pocket.



That's a good idea too, never thought of that. Just make sure you don't get the kind with little pink and blue flowers on it!

As for the tape, i've had good luck not leaving residue. But then again, their is already residue from the stick-on numbers they use at triathlons. How do you get this stuff OFF (without damaging the helmet)?!


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## lawrence

Try Avon's Skin So Soft to get off decal and tape residue. Sometimes vegetable/corn/canola oil will work.

For heavy duty removal but it may take the gloss off the material, I use laquer thinner, but I've also have used acetone/nail polish remover, and rubbing alcohol.


----------



## Mr. Versatile

When attaching lights, heart rate monitors, computers, etc to handlebars or forks, determine approximately where you're going to put them, then thinly wrap that spot with friction tape. It'll keep it position even on the roughest roads.


----------



## Mr. Versatile

Before taping your bars wrap them with friction tape. Place the wraps about 3" apart, then wrap with bar tape as usual. Keeps your bar tape from sliding or coming loose.


----------



## M__E

Alex-in-Evanston said:


> Same can be accomplished by perching the nose of your saddle on a low-hanging, horizontal tree branch. Bikes balance quite well this way.


yeah and theres just lots of those around! 
(not..)


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## Ride1

Although it may seem obvious...be alert on your bike from the moment you step on to the moment you step off. Speaking from my own experience and that of others unfortunate events can occur even in your driveway if you are inattentive..............


----------



## Durt

Even though most of us carry cell phones, it is still a good idea to let someone know where you're headed, what route, and when to expect you back. 

If you do a significant amount of riding in the dark, get a reflective vest like road construction guys wear. May look dorky but makes you more visible.

Be very wary and alert when approaching children. They make sudden moves. 

Long thick socks, like soccer or baseball, make great cheap arm warmers and can match colors with your kit. Cut off the foot, wear the hemmed end at your wrist and the rough cut edge under your jersey sleeve. 

Stinky sweaty helmet? 5 gallon bucket of warm water and laundry soap. Drop the helmet in and soak for a bit. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry. 

Air dry your expensive chamois shorts.


----------



## Sriajuda

Great tips here, even for non-beginners. Here are mine:

- I always carry a set of latex gloves. Weigh almost nothing, great to keep your hands clean if you need to work on the drivetrain or fix a flat when riding in wet conditions. Can also be a lifesaver in the cold, when you unexpectedly get into the rain.

- I also carry 2 wipes for eyeglasses. Useful for dirty glasses, even more useful for greasy fingers!

- When fixing a flat (not in a hurry), often some ridges from the production process will sit under the patch. These ridges can be trimmed down with a sharp set of scissors. IMHO the scissors on swiss army knives (victorinox) work best. That way the patch will sit perfectly.

- Make sure your spoke tension is even and high enough. Especially on a new bike / wheels, spokes need retensioning after a few 100 miles. Breaking spokes or rims that go out of true are often caused by to little spoke tension! Hint: Equal spoke tension can be determined by ear, just twang them with your fingernail.

- Before each ride, I make sure my a** is *absolutely* clean, using wet wipes. Then I use some baby cream for the most sensitive parts. Can make the difference between a great ride and a disaster.

- Moisture-sensitive stuff like a mobile can be well protected by wrapping them in that thin foil that is used to keep foodstuff fresh. You can even use such a wrapped mobile without unwrapping it.


----------



## willtsmith_nwi

Sriajuda said:


> - Make sure your spoke tension is even and high enough. Especially on a new bike / wheels, spokes need retensioning after a few 100 miles. Breaking spokes or rims that go out of true are often caused by to little spoke tension! Hint: Equal spoke tension can be determined by ear, just twang them with your fingernail.


Wheels can and should be pre-stressed and tensioned. If done properly it wont have to be done again for a very long time.


----------



## adirondack blues

olr1 said:


> Shoes? $100 plus....
> 
> Socks? $1.....
> 
> Put socks over your shoes when it rains.


A friend of mine got me into using rubber galoshes (i.e. totes) with holes cut in soles for cleats. Poor man's neoprene shoe covers. Works great in wet and cold weather. :thumbsup:


----------



## xeon

dbmcclus said:


> Most of you have probably already heard of an emergency program called "ICE". It stands for "In Case of Emergency". Please see the link below. A paramedic in England started this movement. Just program the word "ICE" in front of a contact on your cell phone such as "ICE Home" or ICE Judy" ect... If you are in an accident, paramedics and doctors are trained to look for this entry in your cell phone.


Good tip, I would also add that you can go to the following website and input your info to print out Medical ID cards for ICE. 

http://www.medids.com/free-id.php

After an incident with a motorcycle group ride where one rider crashed and ultimately died... he was only casually known, so not knowing pertinent info immediately made a bad situation worse.


----------



## mcqz

What's a "mobile" and why would you wrap it in foil?


----------



## California L33

mcqz said:


> What's a "mobile" and why would you wrap it in foil?


He might mean a phone. I'd think putting it in a zip lock bag would be better to keep moisture away.


----------



## old_fuji

Mr. Versatile said:


> Before taping your bars wrap them with friction tape. Place the wraps about 3" apart, then wrap with bar tape as usual. Keeps your bar tape from sliding or coming loose.


is that like electric tape, with the sticky side out?


----------



## California L33

old_fuji said:


> is that like electric tape, with the sticky side out?


No, you can buy it at a hardware store. Ask for it by name- friction tape. It's a tape made of very thin cloth with a tack-cloth like glue on both sides. If you every played baseball with real wooden bats it's often used to wrap the grip area so your hands don't slide. Though I've used friction tape to keep light mounts and other things from moving on bikes I never thought about it for handlebar tape. Mr. Versatile is a genius.


----------



## NJgreyhead

Here's an obvious one that I don't recall seeing here:

Use a mirror, and amaze your friends with how safely you can ride.
The more you are aware of your surroundings, the safer you are.


IMO, the mirror that attaches to the helmet is the most useful, because you can be looking ahead and behind with quick, short movements of the eyes.
And if you wind up walking the bike along the side of the road, the helmet mirror is still easily useful, unlike a handlebar-mount unit.

Just accept the fact that you look like a geek. You'll get used to it.

Ride on.


----------



## onlineflyer

*Plastic grocery bags*

On cold weather rides -- cut one end of the bag and place over socks, slide foot into shoe for cold weather protection.

On cool morning rides -- place bag against chest, under shirt, remove when temperature rises and put in back pocket.


----------



## jdille1984

Tim M said:


> With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.


Wish I'd known that a few weeks ago. No fun walking a .25 mile home in cleats.


----------



## jdille1984

*cleaning chains.*

Here's a good one for drive train maintenance. I use a couple old shoelaces to clean inside the chain every few hundred miles. It's less expensive than taking it to the LBS or buying a chain cleaning tool. Be sure to wear latex gloves. It may take a while but I enjoy the time spent taking care of my bike.


----------



## Oracle7775

May be overkill for road chain cleaning, but it works well for my gummed-up mountain bike chains: Buy a gallon of auto de-greaser from Walmart. Take chain off the bike, put it in a plastic container and submerge it with de-greaser. Leave overnight. Rinse in very hot water, dry thoroughly, lube and put back on bike. This gets 99% of the gunk from in between the links, is way easier and faster than painstakingly cleaning each link, and makes your chain as shiny as when you brought it home.


----------



## Kai Winters

Oracle7775 said:


> May be overkill for road chain cleaning, but it works well for my gummed-up mountain bike chains: Buy a gallon of auto de-greaser from Walmart. Take chain off the bike, put it in a plastic container and submerge it with de-greaser. Leave overnight. Rinse in very hot water, dry thoroughly, lube and put back on bike. This gets 99% of the gunk from in between the links, is way easier and faster than painstakingly cleaning each link, and makes your chain as shiny as when you brought it home.



Not overkill at all. Matter of fact that is very old school.
Many of us kept a coffee can, or similar, filled with all kinds of solvents...gasoline, kerosine, etc. to soak our chains in...many real old schoolers would soak then in wax after cleaning...kept out gunk, etc.


----------



## willtsmith_nwi

Oracle7775 said:


> May be overkill for road chain cleaning, but it works well for my gummed-up mountain bike chains: Buy a gallon of auto de-greaser from Walmart. Take chain off the bike, put it in a plastic container and submerge it with de-greaser. Leave overnight. Rinse in very hot water, dry thoroughly, lube and put back on bike. This gets 99% of the gunk from in between the links, is way easier and faster than painstakingly cleaning each link, and makes your chain as shiny as when you brought it home.


A chain that is shiny is not necessarily clean. The gunk that matters is between the rollers and the pins. I don't think that solely "leaving" the chain in degreaser overnight will effectively displace the grit in these areas which is solely responsible for chain wear.

After the degreaser step, you really need to do several rinse steps in an agitator (a shaken soda bottle will do). Each time the water should get cleaner after the rinse. When the water runs clear, do the final rinse in Isopropyl Alcohol. It displaces the water and evaporates quickly. 

This can all be accomplished with a chain cleaning machine with 10 minutes.

If you're having good results with this method, it's probably because road chains don't get nearly as much dirt and grit as an MTB chain.


----------



## Oracle7775

willtsmith_nwi said:


> A chain that is shiny is not necessarily clean. The gunk that matters is between the rollers and the pins. I don't think that solely "leaving" the chain in degreaser overnight will effectively displace the grit in these areas which is solely responsible for chain wear.
> 
> After the degreaser step, you really need to do several rinse steps in an agitator (a shaken soda bottle will do). Each time the water should get cleaner after the rinse. When the water runs clear, do the final rinse in Isopropyl Alcohol. It displaces the water and evaporates quickly.
> 
> This can all be accomplished with a chain cleaning machine with 10 minutes.
> 
> If you're having good results with this method, it's probably because road chains don't get nearly as much dirt and grit as an MTB chain.


Even us hardheaded MTB'ers know that a shiny chain doesn't necessarily mean the chain is clean, and that you have to get the rollers and pins clean, too. :thumbsup: 

I have GREAT results with this method. Chain cleaning machines never came close to getting all of the crap out from the rollers of my MTB chains. This is actually the recommended chain cleaning method in the "beginner's corner" over at MTBR.com. You're probably right, though--road chains don't get as gunked up as MTBR chains for the most part, which is why I said that this method may be overkill.

I did forget to mention that I do shake it up in the hot water several times to get the loose chunks out, though. That's an important step. I have not done the final rinse with alcohol before. I've give that a try next time around as a quicker way to get rid of the water. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## MerlinAma

lawrence said:


> ....... Try a .33 plastic shower cap from the $1 store (3 for a dollar). Cheap, lasts a long time (I'm on my 3rd year with the same shower cap), collapsible to be stored in your pocket, it's easily installed and removed off the helmet, keeps your head warm, rain proof, ........


Yes! I carry one when I take a rain jacket. Last weekend we stayed at a motel before a century ride in the mountains and I gave the two shower caps in the room to my riding buddies. 

We all wore them the first 15 miles when it was 40 degrees and downhill (ie - COLD) and later when we got in a rain/hail storm (COLD & WET).

Later on the ride several people commented on what a good idea the shower cap was.


----------



## BryanSayer

*Chain oiling*



Kai Winters said:


> Not overkill at all. Matter of fact that is very old school.
> Many of us kept a coffee can, or similar, filled with all kinds of solvents...gasoline, kerosine, etc. to soak our chains in...many real old schoolers would soak then in wax after cleaning...kept out gunk, etc.


I used to "soak" my chain in motor oil in a double boiler. for some reason my parents made me do this outside on the grill.


----------



## California L33

BryanSayer said:


> I used to "soak" my chain in motor oil in a double boiler. for some reason my parents made me do this outside on the grill.


Amazing? Yes. In a good way? No.  It reminds me of the folks who used to melt wax and dip their chains in it. 

There are better alternatives today.


----------



## bongskie69

Hello to all, i'm newbie here from philippines, thanks for all the posts


----------



## SenorSlacker

*My Best Tip*

Forget what everyone is telling you and get out and ride. Everything else will fall in place once you build up a little strength.


----------



## mccurdy21

Sriajuda said:


> - Before each ride, I make sure my a** is *absolutely* clean, using wet wipes. Then I use some baby cream for the most sensitive parts. Can make the difference between a great ride and a disaster.


I'm glad to hear that I am not the only one who does it.. Baby wet wipes can be for adults as well. I guess you can say I'm a little "anal" about that subject....?


----------



## rydbyk

Losing rotating weight (ie wheels) is more important than static weight (ie frame). Losing 200g from replacing wheelset is much more beneficial than losing 200g from replacing frame.

Also, make sure that you take a look at your gut before you start looking at the weights of bike frames. Cheapest and healthiest way to cut lbs from your ride is excess body fat. Once you are at or near "prize fighting weight" your purchase of the lightest fastest frame is always justified!!


----------



## billwcc

After washing the bike, blow dry it with a leaf blower, set on hi. The leaf blower actually puts out warm air. After a few minutes, the bike will be almost totally dry. 30 more minutes in the sun, and it's dry as a cracker. This stops rust in its tracks.


----------



## w4nd3r

Headlights are immensely better when mounted on the helmet instead of the bars. I've been riding with mine on my bars for a month or so, finally rigged up a helmet mount and used it for the first time yesterday and was amazed. I don't know if it's because the light source nearly matches my line of sight now or what but I'm not going to be putting it back on my bars.


----------



## Roadplay

Just curious, what headlight are you using?


----------



## w4nd3r

I'm using the Magicshine and couldn't be happier with it so far, going on 5 months of use.


----------



## ThePlowKing

great thread, here are some of my tips:

* When inflating a newly installed tube, first inflate to about 50% of your target pressure, deflate, then re-inflate to 100% of your target pressure. When you deflate the tire you will hear it "unravel" itself and shift into position. This ensures that the tire is not twisted or caught up against the tire or rim. I have found that this reduces the number of flats I get much more than using baby or talcum powder (which I don't recommend using).

* Buy a small chain breaking tool, practice breaking a chain once, carry an extra quick link such as a wipperman connex quick link. Not many people carry this: one day you will be someones hero, or will save yourself a long walk home.

* If your water bottles start to get funky you can rinse them out with a mixture of water/mouth wash, or put them in the freezer overnight to kill bacteria.

* If you're feet are getting cold, duct tape over the toes of your shoes works in a pinch and helps a bit by blocking the air flow through the breathable parts of the shoe.


----------



## slow.climber

If you spin them enough, chain cleaning machines can get your chain amazingly clean. Clearner than any other method I've ever used.

I've tested this by using the degreaser in a bottle technique (lot's of vigorous shaking and changed the degreaser more than once) then I cleaned the hell out of the rest of the drive train, mounted the chain, and then used the cyclone. Even though the chain looked perfect, there was grit in the bottom of the cyclone after the cleaning.

But, I've stoped using my Cyclone. It's just too easy to get degreaser where you absolutely do not want it, like inside the rear derailer. If you have Mavic Ksyrium wheels, the degreaser will get around that damned nylon washer that's meant to keep the grit from getting into the free body. The degreaser will thin out the grease and your wheel will start howling.

So I'm back to shaking the plastic bottle.

I dry the chain in the oven (250 degress for 10 minutes). I want to be sure to bake the water out of the rollers.


----------



## slow.climber

*Removing your pedals*

No need to over think this one.

Put your wrench on the pedal and start turning it gently. The crank arm will start to rotate. If you hear a ratching sound from the rear wheel, you've picked the right way to turn the wrench. Grab the crank arm and give the wrench a good tug.

Why does this work?

Well, the threads on the pedals are chosen such that the pedals tend to get tighter when you push 'forward' with your foot. So to take the pedal off, grab it with your wrench, turn the wrench any way you want, that's the same as pushing the pedal with your foot. If you chose to turn the wrench the way that's going to tighten the pedal it's also going to spin the wheel forward, so turn the wrench the other direction.


----------



## MShaw

I'll be a rebel here and suggest something that works really well for getting EVERYthing outta yer chain: hot soapy water blasted from one of them DIY car washes. Put the chain in a middle cog and blast away going backwards. Gets EVERYthing out.

Then ya go home and completely re-lube yer hubs and anything else ya just blasted. For road bikes, this is something of an overkill, but wet, muddy, nasty mtn bikes? You can do a bunch of em for $1!

Since we talk cross bikes here too: ole rule of thumb: if you submerge the BB or hubs ie: creek crossings, time to re-do the lube in em. I started doing this mtn biking in the 80s. If you follow that one rule, your stuff lasts a lot longer and works with fewer problems.

HTH

M


----------



## carlosivanr

Coolhand said:


> Simple stuff that's good to know:
> 
> 1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.
> 
> 2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.
> 
> 3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.


Now I know why my chain was getting all gummed up with dirt. Thanks


----------



## JKTowson

*Get out and ride - squats*

I agree, get out and ride and strength will come. I also do Squat workouts with dumbells, and other leg and core excercises.

Hope that helps!
Jason K.
www.bikepumps.org


----------



## thebikingcello

okay, so I amazed this old cyclist by flipping a road bike over by making it do a wheelie and let it down gentle to its seat and hoods touch the ground. She would just lean it against something since "she had no kick stand". yup. I'm a newbie that amazed a roadie


----------



## vancouver-rider

*CYCLING TECHNIQUE*
If you want to pedal rapidly thereby increasing your cadence, try imagining your ankles are locked and that you're trying to place your ankle ahead of the ball of your feet on the down stroke. If you try to point your toes downwards as you speed up your cadence, you're likely to bounce on the saddle.


*SCHRADER TO PRESTA ADAPTOR*
If you run Presta tubes, consider getting a Schrader to Presta valve adaptor and leaving it on the valve stem. This way you can use a gas station pump or any pump available to top up the tube. You can even help out other cyclists who may benefit from your adaptor.


*CHECKING FOR LEAKS*
To check if a newly patched tube is still leaking, pour a little water over the patch. If it bubbles, its still leaking. Alternatively, check for leaks by inflating the tube and rotating it across your cheeks. You'll be able to sense even small leaks due to the nerve density on your face.


*MAKE CHEAP CHAIN LUBE*
Take a lightweight motor oil for car engines and dilute it with Mineral Spirits using a 1:1 ratio (some even say 1:3 ratio). Lasts a LONG time. Lube often. Its good for the chain.


*LEARN TO SPIN*
I`m 44 turning 45. The older you are, the more important it is to learn to spin higher cadences instead of mashing large gears. This protects the knees from the stress that mashing gears can induce. What`s a high cadence? Try spinning 80 rpm to 100 rpm. Your leg muscles will also recover faster from a hard ride when spinning versus mashing.


*REVERSING BRAKE LEVER SETUP FOR DOMINANT HAND*
If you're right handed, chances are you can modulate strength better with your right hand instead of your left hand. Change the brake cable setup so that your front brakes are activated by the right brake lever and your rear brakes are activated by the left brake lever. Why? 70% of braking force on a two wheeled vehicle is controlled by the front brake. Using your stronger hand with finer modulation of power can be better for some riders.


*USE A MIRROR*
Any mirror. There are ones which mount on handlebars, bar ends, helmets and glasses. Find one that works for you. You'll be safer and smarter than 99% of the other riders out there. Among other benefits, it prevents you from veering in the direction you are looking at.


*CHANGE BREATHING PACE TO MATCH EFFORT*
Tricky to describe but I'll try. My usual pace is to breathe in once every 4 pedal strokes or so. If you have not practiced such AWARENESS, try observing your breathing pace per pedal stroke. If I am attacking a steep hill or need to go from 80 rpm to 105 rpm in a burst of effort, I increase the rate of my breathing from 1:4 strokes to 1:1. So I change from BREATHE-Stroke-stroke-stroke to BREATHE-BREATHE sucking the air and expelling my breath in loud audible gasps forcefully. Mentally, my count goes from 1-2-3-4 to 1-1-1-1-1-1-1 for that burst of acceleration or effort. This delays your body from entering the anaerobic zone from your increased exertion. Hope this makes sense.


*CONSIDER HELMET LIGHTS*
If you ride more than one bike, consider mounting helmet lights on the front and rear of the helmet. One helmet for many bikes and no need to change lighting setups and maintain many batteries.


----------



## Ellshus

Thank you guys sooo much


----------



## Revolutionary Technique

Reading what everyone has to say is quite insightful, and there are some cool things that I am amazed you guys can do.


----------



## bradXism

I didn't see this advise foregive me if I am reposting something. Weigh yourself before and after long rides, esp in the heat. You need to drink at least the weight difference and a little more to replace the water lost. A 5 lb loss is very common I have been as much as 10 lbs light.
Cell phone in a snak ziplock baggy, for me my reading glasses in the nice little cloth pouch that your good sunglasses came in, either in the baggy with the phone. Cell phone has wife-***, Dr**** son*** etc so emergency responders can easily find a contact. I have posted one labled Allergies it first on the list written AAlergies. First responders will usually look at a cell phone you can't count on them looking for a stashed card.
For 'large air' type MTB's riders, I would recommend a good before pic and a large can on skin spackle of your shade for the mortuary artist.


----------



## gmleonard

harvey said:


> DEFINITELY don't store your Power Bar away from body heat when it's cold. They could break your teeth! Clif Bars are another story .... much softer and tastier.


Gotta love them chocolate cliff bars


----------



## bradXism

*Frozen powerbar, lost filling*



gmleonard said:


> Gotta love them chocolate cliff bars


Painfully lost a filling during a ski race from this.


----------



## SnowMongoose

vancouver-rider said:


> *REVERSING BRAKE LEVER SETUP FOR DOMINANT HAND*
> If you're right handed, chances are you can modulate strength better with your right hand instead of your left hand. Change the brake cable setup so that your front brakes are activated by the right brake lever and your rear brakes are activated by the left brake lever. Why? 70% of braking force on a two wheeled vehicle is controlled by the front brake. Using your stronger hand with finer modulation of power can be better for some riders.


While this 'tip' has certain hypothetical merit, I just want to note that it can lead to a VERY dangerous situation if someone borrows your bike, or if you borrow someone elses.
They or you go to grab a handful of rear brake and end up going ass over teakettle.
If you really have THAT noticeable of a difference in hand strength, maybe...
I'm seeing a solution being proposed for a non-problem.


----------



## Ride-On

*Can you true a wheel with your eyes closed ?*

Can you true a wheel with your eyes closed ?



Anti-gravity said:


> Some people seem to be amazed when I can:
> 
> -Put on a tight-beaded road tire with my bare hands.
> -Adjust a disc brake so it is dead silent (no rubbing).
> -Get a stiff link out of a chain with my hands.
> -track stand
> -ride and steer my bike without hands
> -fix a slashed tire with duct tape
> 
> Ok, I'm not trying to brag, since lots of people can do those things, but it's fun to show off sometimes  .
> 
> -R


----------



## thebikingcello

Go to yard sales and look for bike tools. so much cheaper that way


----------



## yanksrock528

thebikingcello said:


> Go to yard sales and look for bike tools. so much cheaper that way


would ebay work just as well?


----------



## Noobs_together

Errr riding on pavement then looking behind seeing no traffic then jumping off back to the road? 

Fast acceleration? Overtaking drivers while they give the "WTH" face.

Overtaking road bikes while using a mtb with fat tires.

Okay, I'm showing off too much but I just like to see their expression's don't mind me!


----------



## jagron11

Some great advice. Now I just need a bike. Will try and post 4 more times so I can post with that discussion.


----------



## thebikingcello

To get posts up, go to the lounge, beginner's corner, Galley and comment on photos, and DO NOT SPAM TO GET POSTS UP! I've seen that a lot lately


----------



## jagron11

Thanks for the ideas. I've tried to make my posts contributory but hard nice I'm just a beginner (hence the beginner forum). Hopefully soon.


----------



## Smoke2

This I wish I would have known about when recently changing my pedals.


----------



## hsj

Thanks to all for sharing. Great thread!


----------



## JEREMY 0510

Thanks for helping us newbs


----------



## DrewQ1

Great Sticky!


----------



## damacl6

Great stuff guys. It is awesome to have stuff like this for those of us who really don't know much about the sport.


----------



## TonyG

I have 3 months of riding in...
By tomorrow night, I'll have a nice bag of goodies for emergencies.
thanks for the tips


----------



## Emdee406

*Grateful.*

Fantastic advice...thanks guys!


----------



## Aaron McDevitt

harvey said:


> DEFINITELY don't store your Power Bar away from body heat when it's cold. They could break your teeth! Clif Bars are another story .... much softer and tastier.


Cold? What's cold? I rode in Arizona for the past 3 years. I would never THINK of bringing a power bar - I don't like drinking melted power bar from the wrapper in 115 degree heat.


----------



## Aaron McDevitt

TonyG said:


> I have 3 months of riding in...
> By tomorrow night, I'll have a nice bag of goodies for emergencies.
> thanks for the tips


Even without this advice, the first time you get a flat, you WILL buy a saddle bag, an extra tube, levers, and a pump. Then you'll think of the tool later while worrying about what else might go wrong. Walking a bike a few miles knocks sense into people.


----------



## mksmith713

Thanks for all the great tips


----------



## sinister_designs

Some nice tips in here for everyone.


----------



## aerosigma

olr1 said:


> Cold day that's gonna warm up? few sheets of newspaper up the jersey, take out when warm.


Brilliant! I'm going to start doing this on my commute.


----------



## cpltomcat

Thanks for these tips - they're fantastic!

I saw it before but I second/third/whatever carrying around a pair of latex gloves. Great for chain fail/mucky wheels etc as well as potentially first aid uses. Also great for waterproofing things in a pinch. Love the idea of using them to keep the wind off your fingers though!

Cable ties are another thing that I tend not to leave home without! I don't know why but a use always seems to crop up for them.


----------



## Zeke8762

You should make a video on how to do that. It is a little hard for a noob like me to visualize what you mean.


----------



## Quarkcharmer

Great tips in this thread! Thanks!


----------



## kinseykramer

"6. the best sports drink....: price for performance.... Water with a touch of salt"

Hmm, never thought of that. I'll try that for my next ride.


----------



## KHRONOS_13

WOW i learned a thing or two. thanks for all the tips


----------



## knirb

This is an excellent thread, thanks to everyone.


----------



## rm.newland

*Tips*

Breath in through the nose and out through the mouth


----------



## dwysyd

All very good ideas and points. Thanks from a new member.


----------



## Whodat

lawrence said:


> Try Avon's Skin So Soft to get off decal and tape residue. Sometimes vegetable/corn/canola oil will work.
> 
> For heavy duty removal but it may take the gloss off the material, I use laquer thinner, but I've also have used acetone/nail polish remover, and rubbing alcohol.


I'd be really concerned that these substances would weaken the helmet & diminish its protective value. Sticker residue is a pain to get of helmets, but getting crusted brains off the side of a car is also a bummer.


----------



## res2580

thanks for the tips!


----------



## trek21_wash

*thanks much*

learned the hard way NO one and I mean no one carry's a chain tool or a spare master link!! So i have both now and wished more considered this essential...

Thought I was so smart about the tube had huge plans of leaving in box until I read hear that it would of been worse then the one I was try to fix...I now carry tube in sock with other essentials...

I am also adding a little first aid kit basically gauze...tape...and the already mentioned super glue...I truly hope this is Murphy's law and it never is used!!

One more thanks for all the awesome advice n tips....


----------



## 9er

Lots of good ideas here.


----------



## Rum Runner

Great thread! A few things has AMAZED me, a old rider! LOL! Such as using super glue on cables after cutting them instead of caps. I use to tin the cable before cutting with solder. The new cable on my bike will not take the solder no matter what I do. Just now have to find my supper glue.

I've only got half way though reading it, when I'm done I'll try to add to it. Thats if I can think of anything that s hasn't been covered.


----------



## Rum Runner

Should have said to apply the super glue before cutting. Just the same with tinning the cables, it keeps the cable from crushing while cutting and it will not come undone after the cut, before applying the super glue.


----------



## Rum Runner

OK, applied the super glue, let it, cut the cable. Then applied a little more super glue to just seal it off. Turned out great! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## BrothersEmpire

Rule No. 1: Real riders had saddle bags. 

Contents of saddle bag:

1 x spare tube

Allen keys (3mm, 4mm, 5mm at min)
Screw driver - phillips head
Chain pin remover tool 
(i managed to get all these on a multi-tool, really saves space)

3 Plastic tyre levers (i ride with Pro Race 3's and there is NO way of doing these by hand)

Cash for food/water/tube/anything else

Inflater (hand pump or CO2 cartridge - also keep the foam sleeve on it ill prevent burning your hands) 

Valve remover tool, for those with deep carbon rims if you dont have overly long stems on your tubes

Old form of ID (god forbid you have an accident, some form of ID will help at the hospital)

and take an energy gel/bar in your jersey just in case something happens. Ive had horrible headwinds blow up that make you 50% slower, and use 75% more energy. Food helps it hurt less. 

Rule No. 2:

BUY SOME GOOD KNICKS! they will save you SO MUCH PAIN! bib shorts are the most confortable for me, no adjusting the waist etc, just pull em on and away you go.


----------



## mrleon82

Coolhand said:


> Simple stuff that's good to know:
> 
> 1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.
> 
> 2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.
> 
> 3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.


Great info...thank you!


----------



## Natedogz

Whodat said:


> I'd be really concerned that these substances would weaken the helmet & diminish its protective value. Sticker residue is a pain to get of helmets, but getting crusted brains off the side of a car is also a bummer.


Goo Gone works well, but sometimes Goof Off is needed and they are both less easier on the rest of the bike/helmet than lacquer thinner or acetone.


----------



## tottenham21

Top info here, thanx.


----------



## caak

Best product to remove sticker residue is an old Aussie product called Eucalyptus Oil.


----------



## john.p

^
awesome. i actually hadn't heard of using superglue to close up wounds... but i'll keep a stick of liquid bandage in my pack from now on! (Same thing as superglue, apparently)


----------



## jamess497

Thanks a lot for this tips. it has helped me a great deal keep it up ...


----------



## OwegoRoadie

Thanks for the tips everyone! Learned a lot reading through all these, should help me be less of a Fred when I get out there in the spring.


----------



## GeorgeB Minnesota

I like all of Chris' suggestions.
However, I have and would sugget a carbon frame if you can get one on a good sale -- like last year's model that a store is trying to move.


----------



## cristinapilar

Nice tips, Thanks!


----------



## inagaddadavida

Thanks for all the great tips!


----------



## wolfmanjack

These tips are so great for a new bike rider! I am going to write all of this stuff down in a notebook!


----------



## -Boat-

Lots of great tips in here...Thanks.:thumbsup:


----------



## jman0000

California L33 said:


> Actually, I was amazed when I bought a spare tube. The LBS guy asked if I had a tire boot. I told him no. He tore the end off the tube box and handed it to me. I've never cut a tire badly enough to need one one, but it looks like about the right size, shape, and thickness.


My favorite so far :thumbsup: That sounds like my mechanic!


----------



## MixMastaPJ

If you don't have a work stand, utilize your trainer or even a car rack and do you work on there.


----------



## cyclintruckin

1 additional seat bag item a small roll of electircal tape, comes in handy for temporary tire hole repairs broken cable hangers, tear in bar tape/grip etc.. My one time handy fix was even with velox rim tape on a 20 mile excursion still got a pinch flat before replacing the tube I wrapped the rim a few times no problems since.


----------



## mogarbage

Wash all your bibs prior to wear. Especially true if you have a white saddle.


----------



## xpc316e

*New Cable Tip*

When installing a complete new cable I do not cut the outer cable with cable cutters. Even the correct tool rarely cuts the outer at 90 degrees, so I use a diamond disc in a Dremel. You get an absolutely square end to the outer and the outer is also smoothed off.

The square end reduces the so-called cable stretch one can experience shortly after installing new cables: it is usually exaggerated by the uneven ends of the outer cables hunkering down into the ferrules, or cable end stops on the frame.


----------



## xpc316e

*New Tire Tip*

When installing new tires always align the maker's name on the sidewall with the position of the valve. When you walk up to the bike with pump in hand, you will easily see exactly where the valves are without having to visually hunt for them. It also looks neater if both front and rear tires are fitted in this manner.


----------



## xpc316e

*Stubborn bolt tip*

If you are trying to free off a stubborn bolt, or screw, always try to tighten it first. This will serve to break the corrosion, and will leave the bolt/screw head undamaged so that it can easily be undone. If your tool slips when you are trying to break the corrosion by undoing it, the head usually gets damaged and the bolt can be then very hard to remove.


----------



## xpc316e

*Tip for getting internally-routed cables through frame*

If you need to insert new cables through a frame just get a length of cotton, and a vacuum cleaner. Push the cotton into the frame and hold the vacuum cleaner nozzle over the exit hole where you want the cable to run - then turn it on while holding onto the cotton to prevent it from being sucked all the way through the frame. Once the cotton is through you can tie it around the nipple at the handlebar end of the inner cable and pull that through. When the inner cable is safely through all you need to do is feed the outer cable over it from the brake/gear end of things. Job done without tears, or swearing.


----------



## xpc316e

*Cleaning Tip*

One of the best, and cheapest, ways to clean a bike is with baby wipes. Buy them when on offer at Walmart, or similar, and you'll find them good at removing oil and grease as well as general road dirt. They are very kind to paintwork - let's face it, they are designed for a baby's skin.


----------



## fatiredflyer

caak said:


> Best product to remove sticker residue is an old Aussie product called Eucalyptus Oil.


Hawes Lemon Oil (furniture polish) is probably in your cupboard already, works admirably, is cheap, and leaves your part lemony fresh. Works great on road tar too.


----------



## TwntyOneTwlv

OES said:


> When you come to an obstacle in the road, push down, pull up, hop over. The first time you manage it -- well, talk about an amazed newbie.


Talk about a necropost, but you can bunny hop a road bike? For some reason that amazes me, the thought never crossed my mind! :yikes:


----------



## prevailracing

Homemade gatorade: 20oz bottle of water, squeeze of lemon, pinch of sea salt, and a little agave nectar or honey. Cheap, and tastes as strong or as light as you want to make it.


----------



## allthegearandnoidea

These tips are ace, going on first triathlon training week in france soon - anymore - things to take - proper newbie, buying first bike looking at the fuji finest 2012 1.0 and the ribble sportive all white one - what are your views on these two bikes and which is more suited to a 5ft 3, 8.5 stone woman? or any other suggestions of other bikes?


----------



## slow.climber

Try not to push your speed too high at first. I think it's best to find your comfort zone and give your body time to adjust to biking. And don't under estimate the effect of head winds. Rolling into a 15 or 20 MPH wind takes a lot of effort.

Compact chain rings have become popular because lots of people believe that the traditional 53/39 road bike chain ring is over geared for normal humans. Rolling on the big chain ring and the smallest cog (53x11) is too much for many folks.

Take a look at this on line speed calculator

If you use a 53/39 chain ring and a nice wide range 11/28 cassette (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28), riding the 53x11 cobo, gets you 28 MPH at 75 RPM.

Now take a look at the power output needed to ride at 28 MPH.

This handy calculator calculates how many watts you need to generate in order to maintain any given speed.

Play around a bit with that calculator, the results might suprise you, 
14 mph = 85 watts
21 mph = 238 watts
28 mph = 527 watts

Wind resistance makes a huge difference. That's why position matters so much at higher speeds. At 28 MPH you can save almost 100 watts by riding in the drops or 200 watts by riding on Aerobars.

There aren't many people who can sustain 300+ watts and feel comfy. 200-250 watts will probably take most people up to 80% of max heart rate.


----------



## St8kout

"* If your water bottles start to get funky you can rinse them out with a mixture of water/mouth wash, or put them in the freezer overnight to kill bacteria."

Sorry, but the average home freezer will not kill all bacteria. They go into an inactive protective mode and come roaring back when they warm up again. Some bacteria can survive even the most extreme cold temps. All you are doing is putting them on hold for awhile. This also does not kill mold or viruses, so properly clean that funky bottle once in awhile 

just sayin'


----------



## St8kout

jagron11 said:


> Some great advice. Now I just need a bike. Will try and post 4 more times so I can post with that discussion.


Lol, I have the same problem. What's up with that rule anyway?


----------



## turtlemoye

Instead of buying a road ID bracelet I ordered two sets of dog-tags online for less than what the road ID cost. You can put whatever info will fit on them Name, DOB, Blood type, address, emergency phone #s etc.

I frequently carry a $5 bill or pack of gel under the bottom seam of my shorts on my right leg. This also works well for powerbars if it is really cold out as your body heat will keep it from getting too hard. It's much easier to access than reaching into your jersey pocket.


----------



## wasmith76

Some nice tips in here


----------



## Bill Bikie

*Talcum powder or baby your tubes*

Place your ready to install NEW tube in a plastic bag containing some baby powder. Close and shake the bag. Remove excess powder and install tube. Tha talc will allow the tube to more easily find it's position in the tire.


----------



## Skidudettocs

St8kout said:


> "* If your water bottles start to get funky you can rinse them out with a mixture of water/mouth wash, or put them in the freezer overnight to kill bacteria."
> 
> Sorry, but the average home freezer will not kill all bacteria. They go into an inactive protective mode and come roaring back when they warm up again. Some bacteria can survive even the most extreme cold temps. All you are doing is putting them on hold for awhile. This also does not kill mold or viruses, so properly clean that funky bottle once in awhile
> 
> just sayin'


No matter what I do my water bottles always seem to smell kinda bad really quickly. I have a metal water bottle I use for other things which I tried bleaching once....bad decision...tasted like bleach for weeks.


----------



## batwings

A lot of good tips in here, thanks everyone.


----------



## lawrence

*1 oz bleach per gallon*

Read the back of the bleach bottle. I think you are suppose to use 1 oz per gallon of water for water bottles. If you are using that concentration, you won't taste the bleach, then of course, rinse well after.



Skidudettocs said:


> No matter what I do my water bottles always seem to smell kinda bad really quickly. I have a metal water bottle I use for other things which I tried bleaching once....bad decision...tasted like bleach for weeks.


----------



## bike71

The sox over the shoe good idea! I did that all the time on my motorcycle it just makes sense.


----------



## DrewA

Thanks for all the tips, everyone! Newbie looking at getting into biking, road biking specifically. Can't wait to hit the trails!


----------



## 400lbGorilla

I would advise to go with some entry level clipless pedals and a cheaper saddle until you get use to getting in and out of your pedals. You will fall (everyone eventually falls the first few rides out...don't be embarrassed) and when you do, your new pedals and saddle may be scratched / torn / or trashed. Also if you must flip your bike over to work on, make sure you lay something down to protect your hoods. The shifters scratch super easy.


----------



## Rob

I always keep a few latex gloves in my saddle bag to keep my hands clean during a roadside repair. That way I don't get my white bar tape all greasy and dirty afterward. Turn them inside-out when taking them off and put them back in the bag to throw away when you get home.


----------



## Bill Bikie

*Another name for clipless?*

We're so far removed from the toe clip era that perhaps we can come up with a better term. it's like calling an automobile a horseless carriage. 

Most riders (newer) don't know that the term means without toe clips, or a replacement for toe clips. Heck, most new road riders don't really know a toe clip is!

How calling them just plain cleated pedals? Any ideas?


----------



## Rob

Since I ride alone a lot, I typed my personal emergency information on a piece of paper, laminated it, and put it in my saddle bag. Yes, emergency personnel are trained to look in cell phones for this info but what if your phone is damaged just like you are? What if you forget the phone or the battery is dead? My card is the size of an ID card and I put my name, address, DOB, medical conditions, allergies, blood type, organ donor status, and emergency contacts. Since any accident that's serious enough to hurt you could also send your saddle bag flying, I actually keep one card in a jersey pocket and one in the bag.


----------



## Bimmer

Bill Bikie said:


> We're so far removed from the toe clip era that perhaps we can come up with a better term. it's like calling an automobile a horseless carriage.
> 
> Most riders (newer) don't know that the term means without toe clips, or a replacement for toe clips. Heck, most new road riders don't really know a toe clip is!
> 
> How calling them just plain cleated pedals? Any ideas?


It took me a while to figure out the whole "Clipless" thing, especially when other riders were talking about riding "Clipped-In" on "Clipless" pedals :mad2:


----------



## LouGubrius

For all those looking for ways to clean your bottles, two products work very well. For regular cleaning user a tablespoon of being soda and almost boiling water. just let the whole thing sit closed up for a few hours, then rinse. To get a really nasty bottle clean, drop in a dishwasher tablet with the water and let stand. Then use the baking soda to get rid of any detergent flavor. 

This also words amazingly for metal bottles like coffee carafes and thermoses, though in both of those cases you can use actual boiling water which is even more effective.


----------



## Bill Bikie

*Water only in mine*

Water only in mine, so it never gets nasty. If I need to drink I'll buy a gatoraid of mix something in a plastic soda bottle and recycle it later.


----------



## Jeallen

slow.climber said:


> No need to over think this one.
> 
> Put your wrench on the pedal and start turning it gently. The crank arm will start to rotate. If you hear a ratching sound from the rear wheel, you've picked the right way to turn the wrench. Grab the crank arm and give the wrench a good tug.
> 
> Why does this work?
> 
> Well, the threads on the pedals are chosen such that the pedals tend to get tighter when you push 'forward' with your foot. So to take the pedal off, grab it with your wrench, turn the wrench any way you want, that's the same as pushing the pedal with your foot. If you chose to turn the wrench the way that's going to tighten the pedal it's also going to spin the wheel forward, so turn the wrench the other direction.


 Could have used this one today!


----------



## bspecmr2

Aaron McDevitt said:


> Even without this advice, the first time you get a flat, you WILL buy a saddle bag, an extra tube, levers, and a pump. Then you'll think of the tool later while worrying about what else might go wrong. Walking a bike a few miles knocks sense into people.


I just had my first flat on the road bike yesterday. I did come prepared, but not fully. I had a spare tube, levers and CO2 cartridges in my under-seat bag, but I didn't have the tool to get the CO2 out of the cartridge. Luckily another rider passing by had a large pump clamped onto his bike's frame and I waved him down and kindly asked to borrow it for a moment. I had already swapped the tube for a new one and seated it properly before flagging down a person and asking for a pump, since I felt bad about slowing them down. A lot of people around here seem to ride very fast (either training for races or competing with themselves).

I'm ordering the CO2 cartridge tool today. Having a spare tube saved me a 8 mile walk in cycling shoes w/ cleats back to the car. I was not looking forward to doing that.


----------



## stockwiz

hydrogen peroxide will kill most nasties off and deodorize without leaving any funky residue. Fill it half and half with water and just let it sit for a while and rinse.


----------



## mountainbiker407

great tips. a worthwhile read


----------



## combfilter

great advice here.


----------



## kmunny19

Don't Spit! if the saliva in your mouth is getting thick, prompting you to spit, it means you are dehydrating. you dont have enough water in you to spare for lubricating your mouth, so the saliva thickens, and you feel like spitting it. 

do so, and you are directly removing from your body, some of the little water it has left. this is absolutely the worst thing to do at this time.

instead, use this as a cue to immediately drink water/electrolyte fluid, etc. Then note that this is a sign that you are not keep ahead of dehydration. Try to figure out how much water you need, how often at what times, to avoid becoming dehydrated. 

When you spit while riding, you are ignoring an important signal from your body, and are in fact doing the opposite of what your body is signaling you to do.


----------



## bluefire

This is a great thread; I just made my own little reference sheet with much of this info. Thanks guys!


----------



## redlude97

kmunny19 said:


> Don't Spit! if the saliva in your mouth is getting thick, prompting you to spit, it means you are dehydrating. you dont have enough water in you to spare for lubricating your mouth, so the saliva thickens, and you feel like spitting it.
> 
> do so, and you are directly removing from your body, some of the little water it has left. this is absolutely the worst thing to do at this time.
> 
> instead, use this as a cue to immediately drink water/electrolyte fluid, etc. Then note that this is a sign that you are not keep ahead of dehydration. Try to figure out how much water you need, how often at what times, to avoid becoming dehydrated.
> 
> When you spit while riding, you are ignoring an important signal from your body, and are in fact doing the opposite of what your body is signaling you to do.


How does spitting prevent you from drinking? That small amount of saliva you spit out will not affect your rehydration if you have sufficient water. Spit, then drink.


----------



## kmunny19

redlude97 said:


> How does spitting prevent you from drinking? That small amount of saliva you spit out will not affect your rehydration if you have sufficient water. Spit, then drink.


where did I say it prevents one from drinking? I didn't, and wouldn't. I'd have to be extremely stupid to say that spitting would prevent one from drinking. How could anyone who has the capacity to purchase and set up a computer, be so dumb as to think that if you spit saliva out, it prevents you from drinking? 

if you have sufficient water, the saliva in your mouth won't thicken and make you feel like spitting it out. if you're truly drinking enough, you most likely won't find yourself wanting to spit. if you are low on fluid and spit, you are wasting some of the precious water you have in you. 

if you are an exceptionally spitty person for some reason, then maybe none of it matters. its just counterintuitive to respond to a signal of dehydration by wasting your body's water.


----------



## redlude97

kmunny19 said:


> where did I say it prevents one from drinking? I didn't, and wouldn't. I'd have to be extremely stupid to say that spitting would prevent one from drinking. How could anyone who has the capacity to purchase and set up a computer, be so dumb as to think that if you spit saliva out, it prevents you from drinking?
> 
> if you have sufficient water, the saliva in your mouth won't thicken and make you feel like spitting it out. if you're truly drinking enough, you most likely won't find yourself wanting to spit. if you are low on fluid and spit, you are wasting some of the precious water you have in you.
> 
> if you are an exceptionally spitty person for some reason, then maybe none of it matters. its just counterintuitive to respond to a signal of dehydration by wasting your body's water.


Seriously, that is what you got from that? The point is that no one would be prevented from drinking because of spitting, so the only thing left to discuss is whether the less than 1/4 oz of thick mucus you have accumulated will actually provide a sufficient enough amount of rehydration that you should bother swallowing it again, or if its ok to just spit it out and then drink your water for rehydration. You seem to be telling beginners that this has to be swallowed. The rest of us with common sense can do the math that 1/4 oz compared to the 40+oz of water in our 2 bottles will make less than a 1% difference and spit away. If you happen to be in a race where you think that small amount of mucus will make a difference between a win or a loss, then go ahead and swallow. The rest of the pros will continue to spit as they please, blow snot rockets, and rehydrate with cool refreshing water.


----------



## jdwertz

great tips thanks


----------



## HabsFanTom

Thanks everyone for these great tips, coming from a noob who is trying to get into the sport!


----------



## wtchoe

don't buy single serve packs of your favorite drink powders. i keep a 1oz Nalgene polyethylene bottle filled with a single serving in my saddle bag. available at REI. secure and cheap.


----------



## mrcreosote

harvey said:


> DEFINITELY don't store your Power Bar away from body heat when it's cold. They could break your teeth! Clif Bars are another story .... much softer and tastier.


I cut my Powerbars into thirds before I leave. No hassle with trying to get the wrapper open, and I know exactly how much I have had.

Occasionally, I have been known to slip each piece under the gripper in my knicks for easy access


----------



## SHatten

*Thanks from another newbee*

Thanks guys for all the tips. Good info to share.:thumbsup:


----------



## 73RaleighPro

Something I'll never forget is seeing someone repair a broken chain on a single speed road bike with some electrical tape. The guy wrapped the chain a couple times and I swear we rode another 15 miles to finish the ride without issue. That amazes me to this day.


----------



## ptizzy

I need to live with an experienced rider to learn half of this **** and feel a little better about myself, I just ride and havent ran into one of these problems yet but probably would be helpless if I did lol! this is awesome!


----------



## vagabondcyclist

We're riding together, not racing. 
That means we stop if the other rider has a mechanical. 
That means we stop if the other rider needs to stop for a nature break. 
That means we make sure everyone is back in the group after crossing a busy intersection before we bring the pace back up. 
That means, yeah we can push the pace a little bit, but we're riding together, not racing. 
That means we wait for the rider(s) we've dropped or go back and find them.


----------



## Turtle615

First day on the forums, these tips/tricks are already helping!


----------



## Icetech

Good stuff in this thread... as a new rider i am curious if anyone knows of any good shorts for riding that arn't bike shorts... i just cannot bring myself to put a pair on..


----------



## NJgreyhead

Icetech said:


> Good stuff in this thread... as a new rider i am curious if anyone knows of any good shorts for riding that arn't bike shorts... i just cannot bring myself to put a pair on..


You might like camp shorts if you like pockets, a loose fit and quick-drying. Columbia has some good ones.
I wear them OVER my Lycra shorts (for the pockets, and vanity's sake - my belly is not big, but it is odd-shaped).


----------



## wtchoe

one more -- stop looking at your computer all the time. focus on the road, your body, and your form/technique instead. you'll go faster.


----------



## Big-foot

When taking a bike to a shop for a repair that is beyond your personal skill/tool set, the turnaround time can be drastically stepped up by up to several days with the mere presentation of a six-pack of something liquid and frothy. To extract the full power of this phenomenon be certain that said liquid is produced only in small batches and within 50 miles. Also the darker the liquid the better.


----------



## fizziks

Most excellent thread!


----------



## paul1913

Thumbs up. Very good info!!


----------



## Porschefan

Cory said:


> Anybody remember those tool-kit freewheel vises you could use to pull a freewheel so you could replace a drive-side spoke? I still have one, useless now, around the garage. A modern-day equivalent, the Cassette Cracker, is the size and weight of a church key can opener and will spin off a cassette with no other tools. On long rides I carry one, plus a couple of spokes taped to the top or seat tube.* Don't know where you'll find a Cracker, though, except in my garage.*
> .


Sounded so interesting I Googled around and found this:

*Stein Mini Cassette Lockring Driver*

Kind of pricey @ $35, but probably priceless if you need one!

Thanks for the great tips.


----------



## joshuashih1

really cool stuff


----------



## joshuashih1

and nice to


----------



## joshuashih1

love all you gyus


----------



## jdwilkinso

Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.

When you're stopped for a repair and need to turn the crank/rear wheel (due to a dropped chain, for example): 
Lean over the top tube from the right (drive) side and lift the saddle nose up with the back of your neck. This allows you to turn the cranks and shift (or move the chain and turn the crank, etc).

I think I saw this in bicycling magazine, and they called it the "human repair stand.”


----------



## Bonn55ie

It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain


----------



## arnie2166

Hi,
I'm newbie to road biking and I'm in the process of building my first bike out of Scott Cr1 frame with CF fork. With this, I would like to know everybody's opinion regarding the compression plug used on CF fork because my frame uses internal or semi-integrated headset. I would like to know if what is best compression plug out there for me to buy. Every opinion is welcome whether positive or not for any brand and just want to hear from everybody's take. Thank you and may you have a a safe ride everytime.


----------



## lawrence

Move this post to Components, Wrenching, wrong place. No one should respond to this post to keep this section of the forum clean.



arnie2166 said:


> Hi,
> I'm newbie to road biking and I'm in the process of building my first bike out of Scott Cr1 frame with CF fork. With this, I would like to know everybody's opinion regarding the compression plug used on CF fork because my frame uses internal or semi-integrated headset. I would like to know if what is best compression plug out there for me to buy. Every opinion is welcome whether positive or not for any brand and just want to hear from everybody's take. Thank you and may you have a a safe ride everytime.


----------



## Mr. Versatile

When inflating a tire with a floor pump, mini pump or CO2 do not pull the pump/inflator head off the valve stem. This can damage the valve stem, maybe damage the pump & might cause you to bloody your knuckles on the spokes or cassette. Instead of pulling it off, wrap your two hands around the tire/rim & push it off with your thumbs. You'll be surprised at how much easier it is.


----------



## lawrence

*I agree 100%*

I agree with this method 100%. It is the ONLY way to remove the pump head. I also put the valve at a 90 degree to my knee, opposite my knee at 9 o'clock, carefully using two fingers wrapped around the rim, palms facing the rim, pull very carefully and straight the pump head onto the valve, holding it with my left hand while I move the lock on lever with my right. Then I pump the tube, and carefully push with my fingers the valve head straight and away from the rim.



Mr. Versatile said:


> When inflating a tire with a floor pump, mini pump or CO2 do not pull the pump/inflator head off the valve stem. This can damage the valve stem, maybe damage the pump & might cause you to bloody your knuckles on the spokes or cassette. Instead of pulling it off, wrap your two hands around the tire/rim & push it off with your thumbs. You'll be surprised at how much easier it is.


----------



## BBoneCloneMN

*Homemade bike stand*

For my cheap work stand, I opted for 2 dowels with screw hooks attached to each end. I hang each dowel from a different rafter in my garage and then lift my bike on. One hook for the handlebars and one for the saddle. Cheap as hell, and good enough for the amount/level of bike maintenance I'm doing. (Forgive my cluttered garage.)


----------



## Burton679

Sounded so interesting I


----------



## BBoneCloneMN

I suppose I could stain them if that helps.


----------



## PTSTORK53

When it comes time to clean my chain I flip my bike upside down. I find this much easier, you've got your rear tire off the ground and can pedal forward with the crank allowing more pressure on the chain which gets the chain cleaner faster. Just make sure you put down an old blanket or towel underneath your saddle and handlebars to prevent scuffing.


----------



## tamato

some great tips here everyone!


----------



## Franco_10

Cool idea. Thanks


----------



## lloydbraun

very useful info here. Thanks, from a soon-to-be newbie.


----------



## Giffs

thanks for sharing


----------



## SlicedUpBeef

Insert a plastic wrapped nail/hook into a wooden pole. Hang rear chainstay on hook. Fully adjust shifters and spin back wheel.


----------



## Mavtek

Good Stuff, just would like to say and use this to get my post count up to 5.


----------



## Sully00

This has probably been said and it sounds simple but if you are coasting up to a red light, slowly come to a stop next to a light post or street sign and grab on so you don't have to unclip.


----------



## lootcorp

Mr. Versatile said:


> When inflating a tire with a floor pump, mini pump or CO2 do not pull the pump/inflator head off the valve stem. This can damage the valve stem, maybe damage the pump & might cause you to bloody your knuckles on the spokes or cassette. Instead of pulling it off, wrap your two hands around the tire/rim & push it off with your thumbs. You'll be surprised at how much easier it is.


This is brilliant - I feel pretty stupid for not figuring this out. Can't tell you how many times I've banged my knuckles pulling the pump hose off!

My tips:

1. ALWAYS carry some cash and a credit card with you - can save your butt in a bad situation.

2. Wear bike shorts. Sure, it's embarrassing at first. I eased into it - first I bought some padded briefs (available at REI and similar stores) and wore them under loose workout shorts. Then I moved to regular bike shorts with the workout shorts worn over them. It didn't take long before I got over my hangup and they really are mandatory (at least for me, as I love riding long distances). I've only ever received one comment - I was riding a century and passing through a small beach town in CT...a teenage girl, maybe 15 or so, was crossing the street with her family and I had to stop at the crosswalk to wait for them to cross. She saw me and kind of giggled/blushed and asked me, "Aren't you embarrassed with those on?" Gave her a big smile, said, "Nope!" and rode on.

3. As an add-on to #2 - on my long rides, if I know I am going to be stopping places and mingling with "civilians", I'll throw some shorts in my bag. This way, if I go to sit down and eat at a restaurant or something, I can throw them on and not worry about drawing unwanted attention to myself. Loose workout shorts can roll up tight and be shoved into a Camelbak pocket or bike bag.

4. When you install/change a tire, align the label on the tire with the valve on the tube...not only does it look good, but if you get a puncture, once you take off the tire to patch/replace the tube, you'll be able to find the same spot on the tire to make sure there isn't glass/thorns/etc... stuck in the tire (if the tube is punctured 6 inches to left of valve stem, the spot of the puncture on the tire will be 6 inches to the left of the label).

5. Chamois cream makes a BIG difference on long rides! Get one that isn't greasy. I like Chamois Butt'r.

6. Use a helmet mirror. They seem really awkward at first, but you get used to them very quickly. I can quickly glance to the left to see if there are any cars coming up behind me when preparing to make a left turn, take a lane, etc...

7. Whenever you do any kind of mechanical work on your bike, take it for a shakedown ride...preferably on a stationary trainer. It's much better to realize your bike wasn't put back together properly in or close to home than 20 miles from home.

That's it for now, if I think of any others I'll let you guys know!


----------



## Skinner222

If you have a repair stand with a clamp head and your bike has a carbon seatpost, DO NOT mount the bike in the stand from the seatpost. Buy a cheap alloy seatpost and use this instead when mounting your bike. I know many people clamp the carbon posts without issue but I won't take the chance. A cheapo seatpost is only 10 bucks. Replacing your cracked carbon post will likely cost a lot more than that.

Cheers!
K


----------



## y2kota

Great stuff here! Must read!


----------



## evanchale

good stuff!


----------



## dgrif499

I like the storage tips in here, my bike is precariously close to being driven over by a car as is, im looking to improve the situation.


----------



## Haagis58

There are many, many useful posts in this thread, but this has to be one of the clearest, well-organized and immediately executable sets of tips. Thank you all for your valuable advice!


----------



## Haagis58

Oops! The quote was not attached to my previous post (previous post can be deleted). 



vancouver-rider said:


> *CYCLING TECHNIQUE*
> If you want to pedal rapidly thereby increasing your cadence, try imagining your ankles are locked and that you're trying to place your ankle ahead of the ball of your feet on the down stroke. If you try to point your toes downwards as you speed up your cadence, you're likely to bounce on the saddle.
> 
> 
> *SCHRADER TO PRESTA ADAPTOR*
> If you run Presta tubes, consider getting a Schrader to Presta valve adaptor and leaving it on the valve stem. This way you can use a gas station pump or any pump available to top up the tube. You can even help out other cyclists who may benefit from your adaptor.
> 
> 
> *CHECKING FOR LEAKS*
> To check if a newly patched tube is still leaking, pour a little water over the patch. If it bubbles, its still leaking. Alternatively, check for leaks by inflating the tube and rotating it across your cheeks. You'll be able to sense even small leaks due to the nerve density on your face.
> 
> 
> *MAKE CHEAP CHAIN LUBE*
> Take a lightweight motor oil for car engines and dilute it with Mineral Spirits using a 1:1 ratio (some even say 1:3 ratio). Lasts a LONG time. Lube often. Its good for the chain.
> 
> 
> *LEARN TO SPIN*
> I`m 44 turning 45. The older you are, the more important it is to learn to spin higher cadences instead of mashing large gears. This protects the knees from the stress that mashing gears can induce. What`s a high cadence? Try spinning 80 rpm to 100 rpm. Your leg muscles will also recover faster from a hard ride when spinning versus mashing.
> 
> 
> *REVERSING BRAKE LEVER SETUP FOR DOMINANT HAND*
> If you're right handed, chances are you can modulate strength better with your right hand instead of your left hand. Change the brake cable setup so that your front brakes are activated by the right brake lever and your rear brakes are activated by the left brake lever. Why? 70% of braking force on a two wheeled vehicle is controlled by the front brake. Using your stronger hand with finer modulation of power can be better for some riders.
> 
> 
> *USE A MIRROR*
> Any mirror. There are ones which mount on handlebars, bar ends, helmets and glasses. Find one that works for you. You'll be safer and smarter than 99% of the other riders out there. Among other benefits, it prevents you from veering in the direction you are looking at.
> 
> 
> *CHANGE BREATHING PACE TO MATCH EFFORT*
> Tricky to describe but I'll try. My usual pace is to breathe in once every 4 pedal strokes or so. If you have not practiced such AWARENESS, try observing your breathing pace per pedal stroke. If I am attacking a steep hill or need to go from 80 rpm to 105 rpm in a burst of effort, I increase the rate of my breathing from 1:4 strokes to 1:1. So I change from BREATHE-Stroke-stroke-stroke to BREATHE-BREATHE sucking the air and expelling my breath in loud audible gasps forcefully. Mentally, my count goes from 1-2-3-4 to 1-1-1-1-1-1-1 for that burst of acceleration or effort. This delays your body from entering the anaerobic zone from your increased exertion. Hope this makes sense.
> 
> 
> *CONSIDER HELMET LIGHTS*
> If you ride more than one bike, consider mounting helmet lights on the front and rear of the helmet. One helmet for many bikes and no need to change lighting setups and maintain many batteries.


----------



## e_rat

vagabondcyclist said:


> We're riding together, not racing.
> That means we stop if the other rider has a mechanical.
> That means we stop if the other rider needs to stop for a nature break.
> That means we make sure everyone is back in the group after crossing a busy intersection before we bring the pace back up.
> That means, yeah we can push the pace a little bit, but we're riding together, not racing.
> That means we wait for the rider(s) we've dropped or go back and find them.


Ha ha, so often that a group ride becomes a race. Because everyone is trying to beat others' or his own PR on Strava. I just stay with my own pace, and let them drop me. However, many times, I finish before half of these people, because they couldn't keep their pace.


----------



## PTSTORK53

I use Q tips to clean the gap in-between the rollers of my bicycle chain. Seems like a lot of grit and dirt get caught up in there. It's a little tedious but it works great and doesn't waste very much cleaner. 
Another tip: before shelling out $$ for expensive powdered electrolyte drinks try lemon water. For me, lemon water goes down easier when I'm really hot, quenches my thirst better too. I've tired HEED by Hammer Nutrition at various strengths but it doesn't work for me; leaves my lips sticky.


----------



## Julian97

Just want to say thanks for all this awesome advice. Really helpful for a noob like myself


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## nsfbr

I am finding this thread a great resource. I am definitely in the newbie category as far as road biking is concerned, but loving it more and more as I improve and spend more time on the bike. One thing that I am seeing is that although it may be a real challenge, a bigger challenge than I've faced to date, I should try and find a group/club/whatever to ride with and/or gain experience with IRL. There is so much I don't know, and probably even more that I don't know I don't know (about the only useful thing to come out of Rumsfield's mouth.)

Although I am a newbie, I'm also able to share some things that are possibly good ideas, or perhaps illustrations of what others have offered that I can attest to.

First, cadence: Yeah, I'm all about high cadence. Pretty much always 90+ if I'm doing any work at all. 100+ is not uncommon, especially if I'm going fast on a slight decline or level with a tailwind (which means 22mph or so). It is hard to tell how much of my improvement over the last couple of months is due to learning how to pedal vs. physical improvement, but I'm not going to run a control test and try cranking around 80...

Second, make your intentions clear on the road/trail - I ride the vast majority of the time on paved bike trails (W&OD, Custis, Mount Vernon, etc., here in NoVA.) While I have not really learned the finer points of riding etiquette (and would benefit from someone with a lot more experience taking some stabs at, especially with a focus on newbies rather than experienced riders, see below) one thing I do know is that on a crowded trail where you have a lot of interaction with oncoming traffic it makes life easier all around if you telegraph your intent clearly ahead of time. I'm not talking about flailing around or anything, just don't hide your plans like it is the final sprint in some stage race. For example, I'm overtaking some walkers or joggers and I see a bike (or walker or jogger) headed my way. I can clearly make the pass safely before we all meet so what I'm going to do is check behind me to make sure I'm not also being passed and then move to the left (oncoming) lane. Then I will make sure the folks I'm passing know I'm doing so and keep my eyes on them to make sure they respond in a not life threatening way. If I'm uneasy, or if they react in a way that could cause trouble, I can slow down before I pass them and regroup. Best case though is that I've saved the oncoming rider the headache of figuring out what I'm doing. Conversely, when I pass walkers, joggers and the like coming in the opposite direction and I can see that they are going to be passed shortly, I'll let them know as I go by - in part because I've seen the natural tendancy for them is to kind of expand into both lanes once they are passed by oncoming traffic. Anyway, the point is that for me, communicating with the others on the trails can be done overtly to improve the likelihood that everyone survives to ride/walk/jog another day. 

At the same time, never assume you know what everyone else is going to do. This is especially true of those going the slowest, children and the 70+(?) crowd. They have as much right to use the trail as you do and some (not all or even most) seem to think they have no obligation in keeping themselves safe.

Okay, here is a newbie question, also about etiquette. As I get better, I can sometimes keep up with better riders for a couple of miles, more if I tuck in behind (not too closely! I'm not an idiot), but I'm pretty sure me going ahead of them to "share" the load isn't something I'm capable of yet. I mean, this usually happens when I get passed and I'm feeling good, was going at a good clip in the first place and decide to notch it up a bit...My question is, is this going to bother people? I'm not doing it simply to go faster, although it is fun to see that you can still get a benefit a couple of bike lengths behind someone. I also do it to see what they are doing. I've learned about passing, signaling, cadence, when to shift a bit better, coming out of the saddle, and so on. The thing is, I'm not trying to race them. I don't want to annoy them or change their pace. And if this is just "not done", then I'm fine to not do it. For what it's worth, I'm thinking I'm about a season away from being able to lead for most of the people I'm trailing, although I honestly have no idea if they'd want that either. 

Thanks for any advice as well as all the great info and discussion above. Tremendous gift of experience from a lot of folks here.


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## PTSTORK53

*Newbie question*

I would say it would depend on the individuals. Some folks would have no problem with it while others might view you as a pest. I would guess most wouldn't be bothered by it.


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## Pompey Monkey

nsfbr said:


> Okay, here is a newbie question, also about etiquette. As I get better, I can sometimes keep up with better riders for a couple of miles, more if I tuck in behind (not too closely! I'm not an idiot), but I'm pretty sure me going ahead of them to "share" the load isn't something I'm capable of yet. I mean, this usually happens when I get passed and I'm feeling good, was going at a good clip in the first place and decide to notch it up a bit...My question is, is this going to bother people? I'm not doing it simply to go faster, although it is fun to see that you can still get a benefit a couple of bike lengths behind someone. I also do it to see what they are doing. I've learned about passing, signaling, cadence, when to shift a bit better, coming out of the saddle, and so on. The thing is, I'm not trying to race them. I don't want to annoy them or change their pace. And if this is just "not done", then I'm fine to not do it. For what it's worth, I'm thinking I'm about a season away from being able to lead for most of the people I'm trailing, although I honestly have no idea if they'd want that either.


Just ask them if they mind you "sitting on" for a bit. Unless you looked like a complete idiot by riding dangerously as they went by, most riders won't mind.
Also, you get a <i>lot</i> more benefit by being closer than two bike lengths off...


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## junior1210

When working on improving your cadence, what has worked for me thus far, is instead of finding the highest gear you can pedal at 'X' rpm, find the lowest gear you won't spin out of and maintain 'X' rpm. In other words, don't work from the top gear down, work from the lowest gear up (just like a car transmission). Sounds like common sense, but only the Almighty Himself knows how many riders are out there mashing along at 45rpm in 50x14 instead of spinning along at 90rpm in 34x14. What's the difference? About 1 mph _faster_ and far, far, less stress on your knees.


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## Rob

I hate getting my hands all greasy working on my bike so I wear a pair of latex gloves. I also keep a pair in my saddle bag in case I have to do a repair during a ride. Keeps you from getting grease all over your bar tape afterward. You can buy a box of 100 on Amazon for less than $10.


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## Bill Silverman

QuiQuaeQuod said:


> Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.


Great story, but what does a large violin have to do with a bikestand?


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## pickles

This is not a new tip-- I wanted to echo what what others have said about wearing bike shorts. I'm a beginner and the single most important thing my friends told me was to go buy a pair of bike shorts before my first ride. I was riding my friend's backup bike to get a feel for whether or not I wanted to invest in a bike so I wasn't too keen on buying bike shorts but I am SO glad I did. It made a big difference. One of my other friends did not heed this advice and I had a MUCH more enjoyable ride.

Ladies, if you don't like how you look in bike shorts, Skirt Sports makes a great little skirt called the Cover Girl that is just a skirt---no compression short underneath.


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## 2wheelcyclone

On my last road bike I stored latex gloves in the handlebars. I took the cap off of one side, slid them in the bar and put the cap back on. Never had to use them but seemed like a good place to store them.


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## banallthemusic

OES said:


> When you come to an obstacle in the road, push down, pull up, hop over. The first time you manage it -- well, talk about an amazed newbie.


This is my dream, dude!


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## sandrajames

Woah this is my dream too!


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