# Quintana Roo Kilo



## nineason (Jun 27, 2012)

I found a "Quintana Roo Kilo Private Reserve" at my LBS on consignment for $350. I realize this is a triathlon bike and I don't plan on riding in any triathlons anytime soon, but to me it seems if someone is willing to ride this type bike for 112 miles in an Ironman triathlon, it cannot be too bad for riding around town 15-25 miles at a time. The bike seems like it is in very good shape and the shop has had it for a few months so they might even accept less. 

I also realize this is an older bike (1996) but it is fairly light with decent components, and I am figuring for ~$300 I can have a pretty decent road bike and a whole lot better than a Wal-mart/Academy $300 bike. And if it doesn't work out for me I could probably put it up on consignment and get about what I am putting into it.

What say y'all road bike gurus?

For some reason I cannot post a url so if you go to www(dot)bikepedia(dot)com and type (or copy and paste) in the name in quotes above, you will be able to see the specs of the bike. (I apologize for the inconvenience)

Thanks!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

nineason said:


> I found a "Quintana Roo Kilo Private Reserve" at my LBS on consignment for $350. *I realize this is a triathlon bike and I don't plan on riding in any triathlons anytime soon, but to me it seems if someone is willing to ride this type bike for 112 miles in an Ironman triathlon, it cannot be too bad for riding around town 15-25 miles at a time. *The bike seems like it is in very good shape and the shop has had it for a few months so they might even accept less.
> 
> I also realize this is an older bike (1996) but it is fairly light with decent components, and I am figuring for ~$300 I can have a pretty decent road bike and a whole lot better than a Wal-mart/Academy $300 bike. And if it doesn't work out for me I could probably put it up on consignment and get about what I am putting into it.
> 
> ...


Given that two main criteria for choosing a bike are 1) how well it suites the cyclists intended use(s) and 2) how well it fits, suffice to say, buying a special use bike for a use you have no interest in may not be in _your_ best interest.

My advice is to do some research before drawing a possible wrong conclusion, leading to the wrong purchasing decision.

Based on the bold statement, here's a related thread that might interest you:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/beginners-corner/decisions-decisions-283867.html


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## MikeWMass (Oct 15, 2011)

nineason;3983950 And if it doesn't work out for me I could probably put it up on consignment and get about what I am putting into it.
[/QUOTE said:


> Maybe, if you can find someone that wants a sixteen year old tri bike.
> 
> For that amount of money you could probably find a similar vintage or slightly older true road bike on Craigs List or in the classifieds.
> 
> The fact that an elite level triathlate is willing to ride something 112 miles does NOT mean that it will be comfortable for 25 miles around town. I am not familiar with that particular bike, but tri bikes in general are not known for comfort or stellar handling.


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## nineason (Jun 27, 2012)

are they illegal in road bike races because of how they handle in groups? To help prevent pile-ups or something or is there some other reason why they are illegal in road bike races?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The rule they violate has to do with stuff pointing forward from the handlebars. It's the aero bars that are illegal. Are you interested in racing?

People whose opinions I trust say they handle like ass, but I have no saddle time on aero bars myself.

FWIW, I think that $300 should be enough for a reasonably nice massed-start road bike made in the mid '90s to early 2000s. A massed-start road bike is basically what most people first think of when they hear "road bike" - one with drop bars, gears and no extra doodads.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

nineason said:


> *are they illegal in road bike races because of how they handle in groups?* To help prevent pile-ups or something or is there some other reason why they are illegal in road bike races?


_Triathlon bars are commonly used in triathlons and time trial events on road and track. However, they are illegal in most mass start road races or any other event where drafting is permitted because, while aerodynamically advantageous, they tend to draw the hands away from brakes, make the rider slightly more unstable on the bike, and can be dangerous in the event of an accident. Further, they are not useful in sprints or shorter climbs where power is of greater importance than aerodynamics._

Source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aero_bars#Triathlon_or_aero


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## eekase (Nov 10, 2009)

That could be my old kilo....
I had one years ago (obviously) and last did a tri on it in 1998. Sold it to a guy in Canada.
Anyway, for those unfamiliar with this frame, if it was stripped down to nothing but the frame set and fork, it would look just like a road bike. Round tubing, carbon fork. But, nineason, don't let that think it is a comfy ride for a Saturday morning century. Those 1990-ish tri bikes were stiff and the kilo is an aluminum frame....light yes, but not real forgiving.
IMO, I'd hunt for something more 'road' worthy on ebay....


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

eekase said:


> ... for those unfamiliar with this frame, if it was stripped down to nothing but the frame set and fork, it would look just like a road bike...


It might *look* like a road bike, but the geo is markedly different from most.

Seat tube angles are steep - in the range of ~78 degrees, head tubes and effective top tubes shorter in their respective sizes, all resulting in a weight distribution of ~70% front, 30% rear (versus a road bike in the range of ~45% front, 55% rear). 

The forward weight bias makes for a twitchy handling bike, even by race bike standards.


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