# New Look 566 owner



## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

Hello and welcome guys. I have a 2010 LOOK 566 w/ Rival's on order and should be here in a week. I got it for $2400 otd. 

I've been active in other threads because i didn't want to keep adding threads to the subforum, but now that i'll have my own LOOK bike i think my own thread will help me and others interested.

I already have some Keo 2 Max pedals, Shimano R132 shoes, and Continenal GP4000S tires F/R awaiting. Read on below for updates.

And last but not least thanks to everyone on the forum for help!


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

Those of you guys with 2010 Looks 566's, anyone have the Rival setup?

How do you like it?
Is the handlebars/seatpost carbon wrapped/carbon? or regular aluminum?

My new lbs is asking $2400 OTD for the 566 w/ Rivals.


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## maximum7 (Apr 24, 2008)

Louis, 
First, congrats on the new bike. It would seem you're very excited by your numerous posts all over the forum. 
There is alot of the info you're seeking/posting here. 
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=182932

Also, when you get it, be sure to post pics of it in the pictures thread too, as others have. We'd love to see it.

Again congrats. When you get it, just ride the hell out of it.


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

thanks maximum. i will def. post pics once i get it. and yes, i love to learn new things. and the internet is a great place for learning. i should have it next week by wednesday.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

You wont be sorry Louis, congratulations on the new ride.:thumbsup:


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks George and Maximum7, I'm very sure that i'll like the SRAM Rivals as much as the ultegra groupset. I know its not as "buttery smooth", but this is my first road bike with gears so i wont know whats good/not good. I also know that the Rival groupset is lighter than ultegras, which is a + in my book.

The only thing disappointing is the aluminum cockpit (bars/stem/post) that isn't as good looking as carbon on the 2009 566 ultegra that i test rode. Oh well, thats upgradeable in the future. 

I picked up a pair of Shimano R132 Road shoes and tested it out with the LOOK Keo 2 Max pedals and the power was great. I just know falling in front of everyone isn't going to be; haha.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

I made them change the bars out when I bought the bike. I pretty sure they are a carbon wrap over aluminum, but they do have the wing. I like resting my hands on the flat part at times. Also I tried a Shimano cassette on mine and it's very smooth and quite. I bought a KMC chain for it as well and they say that that makes it quite. Anyhow I'm sure you'll play with it and get it ironed out.


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## Amfoto1 (Feb 16, 2010)

Congrats on the purchase after all your due diligence! 

I'd suggest just ride the heck out of it for a while and then start to swap out anything you'd like to upgrade or tweak. No biggie. Everyone does some of that ultimately, making our bikes our own, so to speak. First worry about dialing in the fit and a saddle that works well for you, then worry about all the other stuff. 

George is right, changing out the Sram cassette for a Shimano (recommend Ultegra or 105 level, a little heavier but more durable than the lighter Dura Ace Ti cogs) and using a different chain will help it run a little quieter, if that's any concern. The rest of the Sram group is hard to beat comparing weight vs performance vs cost. There really isn't anything wrong with the Sram cassette and chain (I've got them on a couple bikes that are otherwise Shimano equipped), so just wear it out and then when you replace it swap over to the Shimano cassette/KMC chain combo, if you still want to do so.

Actually, a lot of aluminum handlebars are as light as or even lighter than carbon equivalents... and if you tape them pretty fully you'll hardly be able to tell what they're made of, anyway. The main difference is that carbon bars absorb a bit more of the road vibrations and that might help on longer rides. You may or may not need that with the full carbon 566. 

And I don't know for certain, but I don't think anyone is wrapping handlebars with carbon any more. There are plenty of cheaper full carbon bars coming out of Taiwan and China now, that they can slap a logo on, so there's little need to "fake it". Likewise, seat tubes are unlikely to be fake carbon. Straight carbon tubing is also very widely available and simple enough to cut to length, glue an alloy seat mount onto. So there's little reason for anyone to make a faux carbon version. 

More commonly it's the odd shaped items that would be more difficult to make in full carbon - such as seat clamps, brake calipers and stems - that are still getting carbon wrapped to offer "the carbon look" at a lower price. 

Practice clipping in and out of your pedals and set the tension pretty low to start, so you can clip out easily. That will help prevent "tip overs" at stop lights. 

I have a feeling this is going to be a pretty long week!


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

^^ thank you for taking the time to make that long post. 

First of all, its going to be a VERY long week. 
Second of all, the 2009 came with FSA's nice carbon pro compact bars, those were very nice. 2010 is coming with FSA Vero bar (low end.) But you guys are right about weight: make sure things work out with fit first. I'll make sure i'm comfortable on the bike and i'll replace things as necessary. 
Lastly, i do have a 2009 bike with a "carbon wrapped" aluminum seatpost. i haven't pulled it out lately, but i do rememeber looking on the bottom and seeing some aluminum.

By the way, what is the "weakest link" on the 2010 Look 566 Rival? is it the aksium wheels? Rival crankset? Whats heavy and stands out on the bike?


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

LOUISSSSS said:


> ^^ thank you for taking the time to make that long post.
> 
> First of all, its going to be a VERY long week.
> Second of all, the 2009 came with FSA's nice carbon pro compact bars, those were very nice. 2010 is coming with FSA Vero bar (low end.) But you guys are right about weight: make sure things work out with fit first. I'll make sure i'm comfortable on the bike and i'll replace things as necessary.
> ...


The Aksium wheels are boat anchors. You can easily get a lighter, handbuilt wheelset if that's where you'd like to spend your ducats. In fact, that will probably make the most difference of any upgrade you could make right now.


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

you're right, but what the hell am i going to do with a spare set of mavic aksiums that i can't get "new" price for? i can prob sell them for $200, but then i'd need $800 wheels for a big improvement. Unless you guys have a better idea... haha


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

The wheels, definitely are the weakest link on this bike. But that probably goes for alot of bikes in this price range. Didn't you say in one of your posts that your gf has a set of Ultegra 6700 wheels on her bike. If so try this, ride yours for awhile, then swap wheels with her, make sure they have tubeless tires on them, then see what difference you notice, and let us know what you thought. (assuming that her wheels are 700c not 650c). The difference should be noticeable.


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

or i can just steal her wheels 

but yea i'll def throw hers on my bike and give it a shot, $80/ea for tubeless tires is too much for me so far though.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

LOUISSSSS said:


> you're right, but what the hell am i going to do with a spare set of mavic aksiums that i can't get "new" price for? i can prob sell them for $200, but then i'd need $800 wheels for a big improvement. Unless you guys have a better idea... haha


Search around the wheels/tires forum.

You can find a very good set of handbuilts for a very reasonable price.


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

Amfoto1 said:


> George is right, changing out the Sram cassette for a Shimano (recommend Ultegra or 105 level, a little heavier but more durable than the lighter Dura Ace Ti cogs) and using a different chain will help it run a little quieter, if that's any concern. The rest of the Sram group is hard to beat comparing weight vs performance vs cost. There really isn't anything wrong with the Sram cassette and chain (I've got them on a couple bikes that are otherwise Shimano equipped), so just wear it out and then when you replace it swap over to the Shimano cassette/KMC chain combo, if you still want to do so.


Or you could do what I just did. Lube your chain with Chain-L. I did this with my Rival setup and really coudn't believe how much it quieted things down and smoothed things out.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

i have a bottle of Progold Prolink lube. Heard great stuff about this lube that also cleans the chain if u wipe down after it. 

But does it quiet things down?


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

That is exactly the stuff I just switched from (progold prolink). I was happy with it, but what sold me on the Chain-L is the possibility of quieting down the drivetrain a bit and the length between re-lubing. You can go 1000 miles before you need to re-lube, that's even if you ride in the rain every now and then. It really works itself into the inner chain link rollers, and there is no maintenance on the chain for 1000 miles, at least. Have a look at the website, CHAIN-L.COM, it explains everything better than I can.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

great stuff, i may pick up a bottle if its not too expensive compared to my Prolink. 

BTW, isn't this the 2010 566 (the right frame, but w/ ultegra groupset)
:









Here is half of the bike with the rival groupset:


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