# SRAM Slickwire cables worth it?



## notwist (Feb 26, 2009)

Does anyone have any experience with the SRAM Slickwire cables? I need to replace one of my shifter cables and according to SRAM Force specs, the shifter uses a 1.1mm cable however the Slickwire 1.2mm cable. I am assuming they are 1.2mm due to the added coating that supposedly improves shifting performance. I just want to make sure they work with my shifters if I go ahead and pick up a kit.

Thanks!


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## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

I don't know about Sram, but I read a review once that Sram could use Yokozuna Reaction cables with their Red components, and everyone would think they had released Red 2.0.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Just remember that any coating that is applied to a cable will wear off after less time than it takes the cable to actually fatigue and need replacement. I have never been, and will mostly likely never become a fan of any type of coated cable. Performance advantages are microscopic at best. 
When you break it down, why pay more for coated cables that at best work a tiny bit better than normal but never maintain that advantage for actual life of the cable? Some coated cables (the new Shimano) seem to break easier than normal as well. I'd much rather buy less expensive cables/housing, do a really good job of installing them, and then replace them more often to maintain perfect shifting. Most of the wear that affects shifting takes place in the housing anyway...and you have to (or should, anyway) replace the cables when you replace the housing.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> I'd much rather buy less expensive cables/housing, *do a really good job of installing them*, and then replace them more often to maintain perfect shifting


Nailed it.

/thread


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> Just remember that any coating that is applied to a cable will wear off after less time than it takes the cable to actually fatigue and need replacement. I have never been, and will mostly likely never become a fan of any type of coated cable. Performance advantages are microscopic at best.
> When you break it down, why pay more for coated cables that at best work a tiny bit better than normal but never maintain that advantage for actual life of the cable? Some coated cables (the new Shimano) seem to break easier than normal as well. I'd much rather buy less expensive cables/housing, do a really good job of installing them, and then replace them more often to maintain perfect shifting. Most of the wear that affects shifting takes place in the housing anyway...and you have to (or should, anyway) replace the cables when you replace the housing.


That's an interesting observation. I've been a fan of Gore Tex and now Jagwire equivalent cables just because they shift so well and avoid problems at the bottom bracket cable guide. I haven't worn out a set yet so I can't comment on their longevity. I ran a set on my mountain bike for a year and they are still good. Friction at the BB cable guide has been a PITA for me.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

mfdemicco said:


> That's an interesting observation. I've been a fan of Gore Tex and now Jagwire equivalent cables just because they shift so well and avoid problems at the bottom bracket cable guide. I haven't worn out a set yet so I can't comment on their longevity. I ran a set on my mountain bike for a year and they are still good. Friction at the *BB cable guide has been a PITA for me.*


They wear like housing does. You can always try a little piece of liner around the cable where it goes through the guide, that can help for a while.


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## woz (Dec 26, 2005)

I'd agree with CxWrench, the coating on cables tends to come off and gum up inside housing. A brand new coated cable to me feels better than an uncoated cable, however just a couple months down the road, once some of the coating has worn off and created extra friction they tend to not feel as good as a standard cable. 

If you want to go with a coated cable look for something like Aican's DLC coated which is definitely the most durable coating of all the cables we've ever tried. It certainly takes a lot longer for that coating to start coming off.

Personally though I prefer a really slick uncoated cable. For uncoated cables I've not found anything that compares to Alligators 31 strand cable which feels like a coated cable. (standard cable is 19 strand)


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## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

So what cable set would everyone recommend? Any preference for disc brakes on a cross bike? Am I hijacking a thread much?


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

About coated cables, I'm not so sure I agree after trying both types and talking with some large LBS's around. I know from using them that a Shimano 105 system goes from a slightly sluggish feel to a much better feel of like the Dura Ace or Ultegra by simply going from standard Shimano cables to Shimano 9000 cables. But what about the coating lasting? Well, my 2nd season on those cables have come and gone with a total of about 8,000 miles and the cables are still just fine and good to go for a third season. Say what? 3 seasons? I must be crazy! no, I have been around cables for over 40 years and can tell when a cable is due for replacement and these are still good and even my LBS said they didn't need to be replaced, so two heads are better than one and these cables are good for at least another season.


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## Local Hero (Jul 8, 2010)

skinewmexico said:


> I don't know about Sram, but *I read a review once* that Sram could use Yokozuna Reaction cables with their Red components, and everyone would think they had released Red 2.0.


here?

Yokozuna Reaction Complete Cable and Housing Kit | Competitive Cyclist


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## Dunbar (Aug 8, 2010)

froze said:


> I know from using them that a Shimano 105 system goes from a slightly sluggish feel to a much better feel of like the Dura Ace or Ultegra by simply going from standard Shimano cables to Shimano 9000 cables.


Yes, the Shimano polymer coated cables make a huge difference with Shimano shifters. The cables fray at the shifter but the shift quality is worth it to change them more often IMO. That said, I've heard SRAM is much less sensitive to cable friction than Shimano.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Dunbar said:


> Yes, the Shimano polymer coated cables make a huge difference with Shimano shifters. The cables fray at the shifter but the shift quality is worth it to change them more often IMO. That said, I've heard SRAM is much less sensitive to cable friction than Shimano.


I think that SRAM thing is because the rear derailleur "slams" or is more positive going into gears than Shimano so that sensitivity to cable friction isn't going to be noticed as much if at all. I almost put SRAM Rival on my bike I bought 2 years ago but I wasn't sure enough about the long term reliability of the Rival vs the 105 from what I read on the internet which left some doubts. In the end I liked the smoother action of the 105, actually I liked the Campy Athena the best but I was already over my budget on the bike and didn't want to spend another $500.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

froze said:


> About coated cables, I'm not so sure I agree after trying both types and talking with some large LBS's around. I know from using them that a Shimano 105 system goes from a slightly sluggish feel to a much better feel of like the Dura Ace or Ultegra by simply going from standard Shimano cables to Shimano 9000 cables. But what about the coating lasting? Well, my 2nd season on those cables have come and gone with a total of about 8,000 miles and the cables are still just fine and good to go for a third season. Say what? 3 seasons? I must be crazy! no, I have been around cables for over 40 years and can tell when a cable is due for replacement and these are still good and even my LBS said they didn't need to be replaced, so two heads are better than one and these cables are good for at least another season.


Hope you don't have a cable break inside the shifter 40mi from home.

Let me add to this. If you've been around cables for 40 years and think that somehow 'cable degredation' or wear is what makes shifting performance suffer you really haven't learned anything. It's the wear in the housing that kills your shifting. With the new coated cables, the coating can and WILL wear, with a similar effect. Especially with the new Shimano cables you have to be really careful when installing them or you give the wear process a huge headstart. 
If I had 8000mi on my cables, I'd be replacing them now as a preventative. I promise you that there is some wear in your housing and your cables are starting to get tired inside the shifters. It's the same idea as not waiting for your engine to blow up before you change the oil. You're trying to maintain performance AND prevent failure. 

But you and your shop seem to know best, so good luck.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> Hope you don't have a cable break inside the shifter 40mi from home.


I guess it pays to know your stuff huh?


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

froze said:


> I guess it pays to know your stuff huh?


No matter how good I am at working on bikes, the last thing I'd want to do is have to replace a cable in the middle of a ride...not to mention it would make me look like a shitty mechanic for letting it get to that point.


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## Dunbar (Aug 8, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> Let me add to this. If you've been around cables for 40 years and think that somehow 'cable degredation' or wear is what makes shifting performance suffer you really haven't learned anything. It's the wear in the housing that kills your shifting. With the new coated cables, the coating can and WILL wear, with a similar effect. Especially with the new Shimano cables you have to be really careful when installing them or you give the wear process a huge headstart.


I don't really notice degradation in shift quality over time with the new Shimano polymer coated cables. The fraying is what ultimately drives me to replace the cables which is highly dependent on how often you shift. I shift my FD maybe 5% as often as the RD so I don't replace the FD cable/housing as often. As far as damaging the coating it only matters in parts of the cable run that touch cable housing or rub against a cable guide.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> No matter how good I am at working on bikes, the last thing I'd want to do is have to replace a cable in the middle of a ride...not to mention it would make me look like a shitty mechanic for letting it get to that point.


LOL, you people are funny. You mean to tell me that you can't tell when your cable is fraying so you just replace it whether it needs it or not? In 40 years of riding I've never had a cable break, but I'll let you know when I do. If you want to go that far then hell replace the chain every 1,000 miles because you wouldn't want that breaking on a ride, or replace the wheels every 5,000 miles because you wouldn't want a spoke to break, I could go on and on but it's not worth it.


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## Dunbar (Aug 8, 2010)

froze said:


> LOL, you people are funny. You mean to tell me that you can't tell when your cable is fraying so you just replace it whether it needs it or not?


Cables and housings are fairly cheap if you install them yourself. I do the RD and front brake every 6 months and the FD and rear brake once a year. Any longer on the RD and I'd be afraid the polymer coated cable will snap on me in the middle of the ride (I can see the fraying at the shifter cable guide.) I'm on track for 9.5k miles this year though. I know many folks in colder climates who are lucky to ride half that many miles.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

froze said:


> LOL, you people are funny. You mean to tell me that you can't tell when your cable is fraying so you just replace it whether it needs it or not? In 40 years of riding I've never had a cable break, but I'll let you know when I do. If you want to go that far then hell replace the chain every 1,000 miles because you wouldn't want that breaking on a ride, or replace the wheels every 5,000 miles because you wouldn't want a spoke to break, I could go on and on but it's not worth it.


You've been riding for 40 years? That's great. You could ride for 140 years and not learning anything about this. Your riding experience means nothing about the subject at hand.

Let me clarify...you've experienced what has happened _to you_ in 40 years. I experience what happens to _hundreds of riders_ over the course of a single year. After 20+ years, that a lot of different things happening.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Dunbar said:


> Cables and housings are fairly cheap if you install them yourself. I do the RD and front brake every 6 months and the FD and rear brake once a year. Any longer on the RD and I'd be afraid the polymer coated cable will snap on me in the middle of the ride (I can see the fraying at the shifter cable guide.) I'm on track for 9.5k miles this year though. I know many folks in colder climates who are lucky to ride half that many miles.


I live in a colder climate though I don't ride once it gets below 40.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> You've been riding for 40 years? That's great. You could ride for 140 years and not learning anything about this. Your riding experience means nothing about the subject at hand.
> 
> Let me clarify...you've experienced what has happened _to you_ in 40 years. I experience what happens to _hundreds of riders_ over the course of a single year. After 20+ years, that a lot of different things happening.


Let me clarify, if you know how to check your cables then you should be able to tell if their still good. Obviously by some of the answers I see here few know how to check the cables, so just replace a perfectly good cable sound prudent.

Next please.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

froze said:


> Let me clarify, if you know how to check your cables then you should be able to tell if their still good. Obviously by some of the answers I see here few know how to check the cables, so just replace a perfectly good cable sound prudent.
> 
> Next please.


I replace mine because of housing wear as well as cable fatigue. I normally experience some loss in shifting performance as the housing liner wears. I've never broken a cable myself, but replaced hundreds that have. The vast majority of riders have no idea about checking cables, most think they should last for years and years. Sort of like you...til they come in w/ a broken cable. I'm glad you get such great life from the cables/housing on your bike but I have to tell ya...your experience is not the norm.


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

froze said:


> Let me clarify, if you know how to check your cables then you should be able to tell if their still good. Obviously by some of the answers I see here few know how to check the cables, so just replace a perfectly good cable sound prudent.
> 
> Next please.


I agree. I need to check mine more frequently though. I used to run bar end shifters. A broken cable strand would stick you in the hand thereby letting you know the cable needed replacement. Brifters are more difficult to check. You need to push the cable button out of the shifter to check it.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

mfdemicco said:


> I agree. I need to check mine more frequently though. I used to run bar end shifters. A broken cable strand would stick you in the hand thereby letting you know the cable needed replacement. *SHIFTERS are more difficult to check. You need to push the cable button out of the shifter to check it.*


FTFY...

Which is not possible on many modern frames w/o pulling the cable out of all but the last piece of housing to the bars. You can actually see the cable inside every shifter if you know where to look.


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## bikerector (Oct 31, 2012)

I change cables and housing when I change bar tape. Match the colors up, makes the bike look fresh again. Cheap $30-$50 to "upgrade" the tape and cables and housing.

I've had better luck with cheaper jagwire than I have with sram or gore's coating crap. The gore was a mess.

Trick with sram derailleur cables, if you're not aware, is to run the housing loop for the rear derailleur a little long helps with the downshift. The 1:1 doesn't seem to like tight bends, at least in my experience. I may have to re-cable a brand new bike since the factory cut it a little short and it likes to hang up a little.


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> I replace mine because of housing wear as well as cable fatigue. I normally experience some loss in shifting performance as the housing liner wears. I've never broken a cable myself, but replaced hundreds that have. The vast majority of riders have no idea about checking cables, most think they should last for years and years. Sort of like you...til they come in w/ a broken cable. I'm glad you get such great life from the cables/housing on your bike but I have to tell ya...your experience is not the norm.


What about brake cables? I don't think I've ever broken any strands of a brake cable. I've had them rust and bind. Probably the housing was worn out.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> I replace mine because of housing wear as well as cable fatigue. I normally experience some loss in shifting performance as the housing liner wears. I've never broken a cable myself, but replaced hundreds that have. The vast majority of riders have no idea about checking cables, most think they should last for years and years. Sort of like you...til they come in w/ a broken cable. I'm glad you get such great life from the cables/housing on your bike but I have to tell ya...your experience is not the norm.


Sort of like me? I already told you and others here I know how to check my cables which is why I never broke one in over 40 years of riding. Man, what lousy comprehension skills you have.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

froze said:


> Sort of like me? I already told you and others here I know how to check my cables which is why I never broke one in over 40 years of riding. Man, what lousy comprehension skills you have.


I'm not 'not comprehending' what you're saying, but I'm trying to make the point that not very many riders will be able to make it 3 years of regular riding and not benefit from new cables/housing.


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

Why is it that derailleur cables always break at the button? It's probably because the cable is rotated over a small diameter drum, and stresses are concentrated at the button. Can this be prevented by better design? Brake cables never seem to break, in comparison. Maybe the cable should be larger diameter.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

mfdemicco said:


> Why is it that derailleur cables always break at the button? It's probably because the cable is rotated over a small diameter drum, and stresses are concentrated at the button. Can this be prevented by better design? Brake cables never seem to break, in comparison. Maybe the cable should be larger diameter.


In the interest of keeping weight down they won't be going to a larger drum or cable, besides cyclists are wealthy and the companies need to keep your money churning out of your bank account into theirs, so by having cables break or wear out in a year is part of doing that. Back in the day before STI we had cables last for 5 to 6 years, of course there were the fanatics who replaced them every season and they were cheaper back then then today, but there was really no need. Trust me, if the cycling industry wanted this stuff we use to last it would because they use to, the days of getting 160,000 miles and still function fine after all those miles on components is long gone. Yes, 160k miles is how much I have on my Suntour Superbe group, and I probably have at another 5 to 10k more than that from various times when no computer was on or working.

When I use to race I was doing that on a tight budget, I was working but I was also in college for about 1/2 that time period, then after that I had kids, so money went to other areas of more importance which is why I never got past cat 3 because of travel expenses, need for a better bike, coach, gear, time, etc, which would have kept me away from my work (which I could have done because it was my business, but then I would have made less money and the business probably would have failed). Today's racer (not pro) has to have a lot more money to spend than I ever needed to race to buy their bikes and to keep them bikes going. The amateur racer today that races in 20 races spends an average $1,750 a year; go back to 1980 when I use to race that cost with inflation wold have been about $600 problem is I never spent that much probably closer to $200 because stuff didn't break so most of that expense was entrance fees, license fee, gas, motels, food, and tires; and just to race in the RAAM race today costs starts at $20,000 per year. See: What is the average annual spending of an amateur bicycle racer?
and: RAAM

Here's some eye opening stuff about us bikers:
Bike or Body?
This is a great eye opener but long: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF4MIEkIBZs


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

Well, there are a couple of threads on the Weight Weenies forum saying that Shimano shift cables are now breaking 2cm from the button end on the new shifters.


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