# A Safe but Efficient Pedal system



## TeddyO (Oct 8, 2005)

I have ridden for a long time, albeit never a whole lot. For quite a while a rode with toe straps, and I was comfortable with them. Maybe twice in twenty years I messed up getting my foot out of the straps and went over. Embarassing but not too painful. 

On my current bike, which I've had for about five years, I have a clipless pedal system--I can't tell you which pedals--and I enjoyed riding with them. I don't think that I ever messed up and went over, but I probably had a close call or two. I have since had both hips replaced, with gleaming titanium components, and I'm delighted to say that I hardly ever think about the replacement hips. After the surgery it was about four months before I got back on the road bike. (I was on a mountain-style bike after two months). I removed my clipless pedals and put on a simple plastic straight pedal, much like I have on my mountain-style bike. 

I am constanly annoyed by the lack of efficiency from not having my foot connected to the pedal. Is it a 25% loss of efficiency, or more? But, I am still afraid to go back to the clipless pedals, because I really must avoid the risk of falling hard on either hip.

This brings me, in a long-winded way, to my question. Does anyone know of a pedal system that is efficient but is super easy to disengage from? Or is there a pedal system that does not lock in the shoe, but still offers increased power and efficiency?


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## mandovoodoo (Aug 27, 2005)

This brings me said:


> I'm using Time Impact, see http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/base_no.66704/dept_id./est./qx/product.htm
> The engagement isn't as easy as some things, but these unclip very easily and consistently. The pedals allow a little bit of rotation around the access of my feet, which helps lots with the irregular movement of my long-damaged right foot and ankle. Most comfortable system I've used.
> 
> Although I have toeclips on my commuting bike!


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## harlond (May 30, 2005)

*Hmmm*



kpcw said:


> Double hip replacement? I'm not being snide, but are you obese? I only ask because that's awfully strange, double hip surgeries (unless it was the result of an accident or birth defect).


Actually, hip replacement may be indicated for osteoarthritis and for avascular necrosis, either of which can occur in non-obese people.

I haven't used them, but perhaps the OP might find some assistance with PowerGrips.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=1401


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## jkantor1312 (Apr 6, 2003)

I wonder how many times you remember falling when both hips were good! I never ever fell when my hip was good. Once it started going bad, it gradually threw me out of alignment...whether I was walking or riding a bike. I always fought getting my knee in on the bar, I leaned on the bike, without knowing it...I was balanced, but out of balance and I fell several times, when I could not get uncliped and was off balance when I slowed down...all the result of a shot hip...also, as you know, I didnt have the proper control, because of the hip, to unclip as fast as my good hip. Unless you have been there, folks do not understand the restriction of movement that gradually sets in as the hip goes through degeneration.

Since I have had it replaced, like you, I took off my SL's and put on my straight pedals off my mountain bike. Not only did it look bad on my 5500, it didnt feel right. But what did feel right was my knee was in on the bar, ON ITS OWN! I could get down in the bars again. I was balanced.

I also have a concern about falling, but I am back in the SL's and havent come close to being off balance or caught in a situation where I could be. Granted, I unclip sooner, when I think I might have to stop...but thats about it.

Good luck on finding something that you can have confidence in. If you would like to email me...its [email protected]


peace,
jay


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## jkantor1312 (Apr 6, 2003)

Exactly...

Whether from an accident, old or recent or it could be in the ol genes, regardless of how fit you are or arent...Bo Jackson had his in his twenties, played his last season of BB and then had to have a revision within 2 years of the 1st surgery.


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## OneGear (Aug 19, 2005)

Just some friendly concern, sinc eyou have to twist your foot outwards, would that in anyway hurt your artifical hips? I'm not too clear where the Titanium goes but you can never be too safe


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## 633 (Feb 10, 2004)

I ride Crank Bros Eggbeaters, and find them easier to clip into or out of than the Look and SPD pedals I've previously used. You will need MTB shoes or their special "road cleats" or a road shoe that can take the 2-bolt cleats.


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## Lifelover (Jul 8, 2004)

TeddyO said:


> .. Is it a 25% loss of efficiency, or more? ...


Nowhere near 25%. Unless you are keeping your cadence in the 110+ range the efficiency loss is nowhere near 25%.

Clip in if you like but if you are riding in C/B paced rides don't count on a big improvement.


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## TeddyO (Oct 8, 2005)

jkantor1312 said:


> Exactly...
> 
> Whether from an accident, old or recent or it could be in the ol genes, regardless of how fit you are or arent...Bo Jackson had his in his twenties, played his last season of BB and then had to have a revision within 2 years of the 1st surgery.


Funny you should mention Bo Jackson, I do a lot of stuff that surgeons don't want to know about like riding agressively, skiing etc and a friend who is a orthopedic surgeon yells at me. (He didn't do the work) He says Hey! Bo doesn't do that, and you're no Bo!


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## TeddyO (Oct 8, 2005)

OneGear said:


> Just some friendly concern, sinc eyou have to twist your foot outwards, would that in anyway hurt your artifical hips? I'm not too clear where the Titanium goes but you can never be too safe


Its a fair question. I have done a lot of physical therapy and exercise so my range of motion is pretty good. I see no inherent problem with the twisting motion to disengage from a pedal, but I it is an unusual motion and I haven't done anything much like that. 

I can tell ya that before the surgery, to get on or off a bike, I laid it on ground, stepped over it and then lifted up the bike. Now I can swing my leg over the seat in one motion to mount, much like I did 45 years ago.


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## TeddyO (Oct 8, 2005)

jkantor1312 said:


> I wonder how many times you remember falling when both hips were good! I never ever fell when my hip was good. Once it started going bad, it gradually threw me out of alignment...whether I was walking or riding a bike. I always fought getting my knee in on the bar, I leaned on the bike, without knowing it...I was balanced, but out of balance and I fell several times, when I could not get uncliped and was off balance when I slowed down...all the result of a shot hip...also, as you know, I didnt have the proper control, because of the hip, to unclip as fast as my good hip. Unless you have been there, folks do not understand the restriction of movement that gradually sets in as the hip goes through degeneration.
> 
> Since I have had it replaced, like you, I took off my SL's and put on my straight pedals off my mountain bike. Not only did it look bad on my 5500, it didnt feel right. But what did feel right was my knee was in on the bar, ON ITS OWN! I could get down in the bars again. I was balanced.
> 
> ...



There are a lot of good suggestions that people have made. I will check some of them out over the winter and begin the spring with something new. (Unless I chicken out alltogether). I might e-mail you sometime.


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## jkantor1312 (Apr 6, 2003)

Teddy, Bo had to have a revision within 18 months of his original surgery. When they replaced his hip, he had to finish out one more contractional year and the docs told him his hip wouldnt hold up...and it didnt. A revision within a year and half is not good, when a hip (back then) should have lasted 10-15 years. He was in his twenties. I would like to know how the revision is doing and how close he is to his second revision. You sound young. Riding aggressively is ok...but if you are skiing...I dont get your concern about pedals.

SOunds like your THP's went great and you are enjoying life again. Congrats!


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## geraldatwork (Jul 15, 2005)

You can go back to the old fashioned toe clips and straps. Just keep the strap very loose.In the past when they were tight you claimed you never fell over anyway. Or you can make one foot looser than the other. I just recently started using clipless pedals (SDP). When I stop I tend to put my right foot on the ground. So I made the right pedal just slightly looser than the left.


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## coonass (Feb 4, 2004)

IMHO
If you wear road shoes, go with Speedplay X2: easy in, easy out, no unexpected pullouts.
If you wear MTB shoes, go with Speedplay Frogs; easy in, easy out, no unexpected pullouts.
They also allow about 26 degrees of float, thus eliminating the 'stiff knee' (as I experienced with SPD pedal systems that only allows 6 degrees of float)


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## olr1 (Apr 2, 2005)

Bog standard, no frills, cheap as chips, SPDs. Set the tension to minimum, and get out and ride. Using SPD compatible mountain bike shoes will offer additional security when you unclip; no more skating in roadie shoes. My only word of caution would be to unclip at the bottom of the pedal stroke, and go easy on the 'leg over' technique. Replaced hips don't like stress when the hip is flexed; leads to dislocation which is bad for your overall average speed. 

Float is only an issue with knees; hips don't care as much about what happens at the feet. Just don't flex too much. I suspect that learning to stand up and power the bike would be better than sitting and grinding away; less stress in the flexed position.


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## ssif21 (Sep 23, 2005)

I'm in a similar boat--I had total knee replacement last June so am also bionic. (The price I paid for a muffed punt block attempt in high school football thirty some years ago). I found that after the initial anxiety it doesn't affect my riding at all so long as I ice it afterwards. In fact, I'm back on the bike for the first time in three years.

My big concern is setting off every metal detector I go through for the rest of my life.


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## mercierfils (May 10, 2005)

*just what you need...*

Power Grips ... from the usual catalogue suspects. They are fantastic no-brainers (I am eminently qualified to make this assertion). I grew up on toe clips and straps, ride Looks on my roadie but have Power Grips on my beater/mtn/dog exercising bike and there's no comparison. You think "oh c*@p" and your foot's already on the ground. At the same time, they are remarkably efficient. I actually swiped them off my wife's bike when she moved to SPD.


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## msohio (Feb 23, 2004)

*Speedplays-full float*

I have two artifical knees and ride with a gent that has two artifical hips. We both use the Speedplays with the full float as they give us some alignment flexibility we'd not have with other pedal systems. Getting in anout is a breeze. 100% recommend 'em for us metalized folks. And I ride about 120 miles a week and have for two years without a hitch.


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## ssif21 (Sep 23, 2005)

msohio said:


> I have two artifical knees and ride with a gent that has two artifical hips. We both use the Speedplays with the full float as they give us some alignment flexibility we'd not have with other pedal systems. Getting in anout is a breeze. 100% recommend 'em for us metalized folks. And I ride about 120 miles a week and have for two years without a hitch.


I got my bionic knee at the end of June. Started riding again about 8 weeks ago after three years off. I rode with my Looks for a couple of weeks, put my Speedplay X2s on for one ride, had at least half a dozen accidential releases and felt too awkward to stand, so I put the Looks back on. I've found that Looks set for maximum float are fine for my knees. Every body is different!

I do have one unrelated problem: both my knees are bad. The organic one has been 'scoped. I noticed today that if I extend my seatpost far enough that it feels good on my knees, my hips rock over 95 RPM. I tried lowering it. Stopped the rocking but hurt the knees. I opted for the higher elevation and just kept my cadence down.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

ssif21 said:


> I got my bionic knee at the end of June. Started riding again about 8 weeks ago after three years off. I rode with my Looks for a couple of weeks, put my Speedplay X2s on for one ride, had at least half a dozen accidential releases and felt too awkward to stand, so I put the Looks back on. I've found that Looks set for maximum float are fine for my knees. Every body is different!
> 
> I do have one unrelated problem: both my knees are bad. The organic one has been 'scoped. I noticed today that if I extend my seatpost far enough that it feels good on my knees, my hips rock over 95 RPM. I tried lowering it. Stopped the rocking but hurt the knees. I opted for the higher elevation and just kept my cadence down.


Speedplay's are great stuff. Personally, I'm a fan of the Frogs. Easy, no-looking engagement, perfectly free float, and literally zero disengagement effort. The X series function similarly, but I've found them to be a bit more susceptible to hard releases from dirt and wear. I damaged a knee tendon trying to twist out of a stuck pedal (not speedplay, but maladjusted Looks) so I can understand the sensitivity.

And there's a secret about the speedplays - cleat weight is a fine-print detail. Frogs are equally light overall.


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## TeddyO (Oct 8, 2005)

*Thanks for the Help, Here's where I ended up.*

After reading everyone's suggestions, I decided that I did not want to risk being locked in (at least not yet). Being as I'm not riding a great deal anyway, it should not be a big deal either way. 

I opted for the Power Straps and I bought a pair. After I got them I realized that my current pedals--which appeared to have screw holes on both sides--only had holes on one side. So I went to buy new pedals. 

As everyone has opted for clipless systems, pedal pickings have become limited. I was only able to find one suitable pair and they came with a pre-installed toe strap system. As I was figuring out how to take the straps off (not at all straightforward) I decided to ride them as they are. I took the straps off and left the molded plastic "cage" and I tried riding like that. Its rather inelegant and one must subjugate one's ego, but it seems to be serving my needs ideally. I'll only do a couple more road bike rides before winter closes in, but in the spring, I'll see where it all ends up. 

So thanks for your help and the very helpful suggestions. And, as we all know, its always good to keep the ego in check.


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## Cory (Jan 29, 2004)

*Really hard to beat loose toe clips*

I know I'll be a minority of one here, but what's wrong with regular old toe clips left loose enough that you can slide in and out easily? They hold your feet securely enough for most riding (pedal types make no measurable difference on my 12-mile commute), and you can pull out of them instantly. I still use them (with mountain bike shoes w/o cleats) for more than half my riding, and they work fine.


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## Buster Groove (Sep 20, 2005)

*There are two kinds of SPD cleats*

TeddyO,

If you consider cleat systems again, you might want to reconsider Shimano SPD. There are two types of cleats available. The most common one is the one that requires lateral rotation of the foot to release. The less common one is beveled on the back so that you can also release your foot by pulling the heel up and out -- this is a more natural motion for newbies, panic stops, etc.


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## cwg_at_opc (Oct 20, 2005)

*agree - ultegra*

i have to agree with BusterGroove, i just bought the Ultegra level
pedals(pd-6610) for $99.99. these are the twist-out-to-release
type, but they have an adjustment for tension which makes them
very easy or extremely difficult to get into/out of - a wide range
of adustment. recreational riders using clipless systems should
always plan ahead for releases; observe/anticipate traffic lights,
corners, parking lots, etc. and be prepared to get at least one foot
out. for that reason, i set my left pedal to one click less tight
than the other, so it's easy to get and be standing. of course, that
hasn't prevented me from having a total brain-fade and ending up
on my back ;-) like my martial-arts teacher once said: "...do the
move until the move does you..." practice, practice, practice.
practice in an empty parking lot with no cars or obstacles until
you're bored to death and releasing seems stupidly easy and natural.

the pd6610 are three-bolt SPD-SL/Look type and should be used with
a shoe with a very stiff sole. road pedals with MTB style SPD cleats
are fine too, again a stiff sole is preferable - stiff means no hot-spot,
a mushy sole will force the cleat/pedal interface to apply pressure to
a smaller spot, causing pain/hot-spot. a MTB high-preformance/racing
shoe should have a sufficiently stiff sole to prevent this. MTB shoes
with SPD cleats are easier to walk in due to their design(the cleat is
recessed), so that too may help you decide when you look.



Buster Groove said:


> TeddyO,
> If you consider cleat systems again, you might want to reconsider Shimano SPD. There are two types of cleats available. The most common one is the one that requires lateral rotation of the foot to release. The less common one is beveled on the back so that you can also release your foot by pulling the heel up and out -- this is a more natural motion for newbies, panic stops, etc.


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