# Review of my 2009 Madone 4.7



## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

The Madone 5- and 6-series seem to get all the press in the Trek lineup, what with their pro specs, OCLV carbon, and Project One customization program, but I'd like to report on my experience with their forgotten sibling, the Madone 4.7. I got mine last August and I now have enough experience with it to write a meaningful review.

I chose the bike after riding a number of aluminum and carbon fiber frames from Trek and other manufacturers. I'm 6 feet 3 inches tall and for 11 years I had been riding a Trek 7500 hybrid bike, so I was used to a very upright position. I wanted to get something lighter and faster and decided on a road bike instead of one of the performance hybrids that are now becoming popular. I didn't think the latter would give me enough of a performance boost to be worth upgrading.

The choice came down to two Madones that my LBS had in stock: a 2008 5.5 with Dura-Ace components, and the 2009 4.7 with full Ultegra. I carefully rode both of them repeatedly over the same course on a hot August afternoon last summer. The 5.5 was impressive -- very lightweight and smooth-riding, even over rough pavement. The Dura-Ace shifted like a dream -- smooth, quiet, and precise. I've never experienced derailleur performance like that! Braking was wonderful as well. The problems I encountered were a noisy drivetrain, and periodic skipping of the chain under heavy acceleration. These were unnerving in a bicycle of this level of price and quality, although I'm willing to attribute them to improper adjustment of the drivetrain, which could have easily been alleviated by the LBS mechanics.

The big surprise, however, was the performance of the 4.7. It was every bit as smooth-riding as the 5.5. Shifting of the Ultegra, while not up to the level of the Dura-Ace, was fast and precise, if a little less smooth. Braking was virtually indistinguishable from that of the more expensive bike. The 4.7's drivetrain was noticeably quieter than that of the 5.5 (although it, too, made some noise that was later quieted by derailleur adjustment.) Overall, as much as I wanted to choose the "better" bike (and as much as I was impressed by the Dura-Ace components), I decided that the 5.5 just wasn't worth the extra $500.

I've been riding the 4.7 since August 2009, and I'm enjoying it more and more. The ride quality is impressive -- it's a lightweight road bike with 23mm tires, but its ride is every bit as good as my Trek hybrid with its 35mm tires. The Madone is very quiet and tight, by which I mean that its operation is very precise. Steering is agile, acceleration is sprightly, and I can climb as easily with the Madone and its compact double crankset as I can with the hybrid's triple.

Another surprise is the construction quality of the 4.7. I don't suppose I should be "surprised" by a well-made $2500 bike, but I've seen so much discussion of the "inferiority" of its overseas construction (it was made in Taiwan) compared to the "Made in America" quality of the 5- and 6-series Madones. The fit and finish of the 4.7 are as fine as any I've seen on any bike, including the 5.5 I tested. The bike is proving to be remarkably durable, as well -- the roads in my neighborhood are not great, and the bike is forced to contend with broken pavement, railroad crossings, and even cobblestones, and it continues to ride as smoothly and quietly as the day I brought it home, and the handling remains tight and precise. It stands up to a remarkable amount of punishment, and I'm impressed with its construction and durability.

In short, my Trek Madone 4.7 has proven to be well-designed, well-made, well-equipped, beautifully-finished, and well-performing, and, while it's not the lightest Madone out there, it's certainly an excellent machine, worthy of bearing the name _Madone_.


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## karlmichael (Sep 17, 2009)

*nice to see another 4.7 out there*

i also have a 4.7 madone and every thing you stated is true. the only thing i have changed on my bike after 2100 miles is the wheelset and got an inform RL seat measured for my butt bones. i am very impressed with the quality and performance of this bike.

karl


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

The stock wheels have proven to be very durable under my adverse riding conditions. My son, who has no interest in bicycles, commented on how light they were when he picked one up. If I do change anything at some point, I'll probably go for lighter wheels.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

And a big plus - the 2009 Madone 4.7 has about the nicest paint scheme of any of the stock Madones.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

Funny you should mention that -- I thought the same thing! I think it's got the snazziest paint job of ANY Madone, or in fact just about any bike out there.


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

Nice review!


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## Erasmus354 (Mar 5, 2010)

I really like the 2010 Madone 4.7 paint scheme, that Carrerra Blue is a really nice color.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks! I've been thinking of writing it over the past few months. Whenever I'm on the bike, I'll think of something I want to say about it, and finally I had enough experience with it to feel that I could impart a feel for the bike to others.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

I rode a 2010 Madone 4.5, and I REALLY didn't like the color scheme! Black and red, with red tires -- I hated it! I also didn't like the triple crankset that the one I rode had -- I felt like I had to keep shifting chainrings too often. I prefer the compact double on the 4.7 that I ended up with. So there were both functional AND aesthetic reasons for me to reject the 4.5! :smilewinkgrin:


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## karlmichael (Sep 17, 2009)

Tenrec. ill post a pic of my 4.7 with the bontrager Race X lite areo wheel set and my new saddle in the morning. the new wheelset makes the 4.7 look more like a 5 series.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

What improvements do you notice with the new wheels?


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## karlmichael (Sep 17, 2009)

*wheelset*

first thing i noticed was about a .6 mph speed increase over a set 30 mile course i ride about 4 times a week. the Bont RXL aero wheel set is also lighter than my Race wheelset and has the DT swiss hubs which seem to spin up better. also they have fewer spokes and a aero rim which seem to help with wind resistance. i can corner with the wheelset with out feeling flex from them. im 190 lb. the only draw back is that once i hit 40 + on the down hills i can feel wind comming from the side more and that tends to make me slow down. i do kinda worry about the lower spoke count but they have a 5 year warrenty on them so..thats nice. ill get my pics posted in the morning. i really think upgrading the set is a must. have the lbs measure your butt and get a inform RL saddle. its way better than the stock one and its lighter.

karl


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

In what way is the new saddle better? Is it more comfortable? That's something that might make a difference to me on rides of 20 miles or longer.

Steve


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

tenrec said:


> In what way is the new saddle better? Is it more comfortable? That's something that might make a difference to me on rides of 20 miles or longer.
> 
> Steve


Steve, saddles are such a personal item, as are all touch points (bars/hoods, shoes, chamois and saddle), that what works for me or someone else may make your ride absolutely intolerable, or vice versa. 

Before you look to change your saddle do a couple of things first:
1) Get a bit more time in the saddle. Like anything you may just need to get used to it.
2) Try very subtle adjustments to tilt, yaw and height. 
Start with your saddle level to the ground, then make very small adjustments from there, either nose down or up. 
Not all of us have the same length legs, or hips that are perfectly symmetrical, so yaw (side to side levelness of the saddle) can cause issues too.
Lastly height of saddle is the easiest to adjust, check with your LBS fitter. Sometimes saddles are set too high...indeed my set height is typically a couple mm shorter than what most fitters think for me....but again, everyone is different.
Depending on your experience and time in the saddle, it can take either 2 minutes, or several weeks to dial in your saddle, so be patient and try different options.

If those aren't working out, find an LBS that has a saddle demo program and try as many different saddles until you find one that you like. Some shops even have saddle fitters, but I have never tried one personally. Not an endorsement, but I believe that Competitive Cyclist also has a saddle demo program too.

As you ride more you will also find that you can tolerate more.

HTH
zac


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

*Great Review*

This is a wonderful review.:thumbsup: But, unfortunately, it is making me even more anxious as I have to wait about another month before my new 2010 4.7 comes in. Patience is a virtue, but I'd rather have my new bike. Right now, I'm riding a Schwinn Sprint I've had since '88.


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

antonlove said:


> This is a wonderful review.:thumbsup: But, unfortunately, it is making me even more anxious as I have to wait about another month before my new 2010 4.7 comes in. Patience is a virtue, but I'd rather have my new bike. Right now, I'm riding a Schwinn Sprint I've had since '88.


You'll be making a gigantic change in bikes!


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

ghost6 said:


> You'll be making a gigantic change in bikes!


I hope that it will lead to a GIGANTIC improvement in my performance. I've taken advantage of Chicago's beautiful weather this week and got in some saddle time.


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

antonlove said:


> I hope that it will lead to a GIGANTIC improvement in my performance. I've taken advantage of Chicago's beautiful weather this week and got in some saddle time.



It will if you ride a lot!


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

ghost6 said:


> It will if you ride a lot!


Not sure what is considered "a lot," but I'm a recreational rider. I ride about 1500 - 2000 miles per summer. I'm hoping to get that up to about 2500 - 3000 miles. 

I've never started riding this early before. I usually start in June. So, I'm hoping that getting started at the top of the season will account for much of the difference. And, I'm hoping to love the Madone and ride it until my legs fall off. Test rode an '09 last August and it was an amazing ride.


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

antonlove said:


> Not sure what is considered "a lot," but I'm a recreational rider. I ride about 1500 - 2000 miles per summer. I'm hoping to get that up to about 2500 - 3000 miles.
> 
> I've never started riding this early before. I usually start in June. So, I'm hoping that getting started at the top of the season will account for much of the difference. And, I'm hoping to love the Madone and ride it until my legs fall off. Test rode an '09 last August and it was an amazing ride.


Don't be surprised if the Madone makes you want to ride more. I ride year round, about 200 miles a week.


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

ghost6 said:


> Don't be surprised if the Madone makes you want to ride more. I ride year round, about 200 miles a week.


2000 miles/week...7 days...:crazy: I can't even count that high. But, I am hoping to ride a lot more on the Madone than I currently do. On the Schwinn, I just put on my headphones :14: and ride between 15 & 50 miles a day, 3-5 times per week. I try to shoot for about 150-200 miles per week. 

I'm hoping that I'll be able to go faster, ride longer, and climb better with the Madone (and a little extra effort on my part). Then, in a couple of months, I can revisit this thread and write how I love my 2010 4.7.


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

antonlove said:


> 2000 miles/week...7 days...:crazy: I can't even count that high. But, I am hoping to ride a lot more on the Madone than I currently do. On the Schwinn, I just put on my headphones :14: and ride between 15 & 50 miles a day, 3-5 times per week. I try to shoot for about 150-200 miles per week.
> 
> I'm hoping that I'll be able to go faster, ride longer, and climb better with the Madone (and a little extra effort on my part). Then, in a couple of months, I can revisit this thread and write how I love my 2010 4.7.


I wrote two hundred per week, not two thousand! Not sure if you read that wrong. LOL. Enjoy the new bike!


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

ghost6 said:


> I wrote two hundred per week, not two thousand! Not sure if you read that wrong. LOL. Enjoy the new bike!


I did read it wrong. :blush2: Mea culpa.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

My first "good" bike was a steel-framed Univega Supra Sport. I rode it happily for many years until I got my Trek hybrid. When I got back on the Univega, I wondered how I had ever ridden it! Clunky shifting, cramped cockpit. The hybrid was so much better! Now when I get on the hybrid after riding the Madone, I wonder: "How did I ever ride that?"

What are the components on the 4.7 for 2010?

Steve


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

tenrec said:


> My first "good" bike was a steel-framed Univega Supra Sport. I rode it happily for many years until I got my Trek hybrid. When I got back on the Univega, I wondered how I had ever ridden it! Clunky shifting, cramped cockpit. The hybrid was so much better! Now when I get on the hybrid after riding the Madone, I wonder: "How did I ever ride that?"


I hope to feel like this when my Madone arrives.



tenrec said:


> What are the components on the 4.7 for 2010?


It comes with all Sram Rival components including a compact 50/34 crank. I swapped out the Rival series for the Force series with a 53/39 crank.


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## musicociclista (Jan 15, 2006)

I recently bought a used 2008 Madone 4.5 frame and built it with Dura Ace 7800 group and Ksyrium SL wheels. Performance and handling is amazing, I really like the bike. I find the 27.2 seatpost's very convenient because I have several seats/seatposts that I like to swap often.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

I've heard that the first things many cyclists change when they get a Madone 4.5 or 4.7 are the wheels and the saddle. I understand the Ksyriums are very light compared to the Bontragers that come with the Madones.


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## karlmichael (Sep 17, 2009)

the RXL bontrager wheel set are also a nice upgrade


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## musicociclista (Jan 15, 2006)

I have a Racelite wheelset and like it very much, but is not as light nor responsive as the Ksyriums SL.


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

Personally, I've ridden the 4.5 and 4.7 and for $2,200 - $2,700 you'd be entirely better off with an aluminum frame bike like the Cervelo S1. The bike just feels flimsy under power. The lower end carbon stuff shows. (Don't forget the 5.2+ have a RXL fork, while the 5.1 and down have RL fork too). 

You're paying a premium for cheap taiwanese carbon frames with Trek on it. If you want Trek carbon, wait until the end of the model year and buy a closeout. You can get some great deals at LBS. A guy a ride with got a 2009 5.2 for under $3k late last fall. Plus, you crash the aluminum frame, you've got a few dings, you crash the "carbon" bike its done. If you're worried about price, entry level carbon isn't worth your time.

Oh, and make sure to check for cracked rims OFTEN. Those bonty wheels are not durable at all. I would advise switching out to at least Ksyrium Elite when you get the bike new. Otherwise you're going to find yourself going to the LBS often to get warranty replacement rims far too often.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

I didn't notice any difference between the "low-end" 4.7 and the OCLV 5.5, which is why I went with the 4.7. As far as crashing, that's true for any carbon frame versus a metal frame. As for the rims, I've hit some pretty scary things at speed with my 4.7 -- once hard enough to flatten a tire -- and they are still perfectly true and perfectly intact. I have no problems with the durability of the stock wheels.

Steve


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## WaCougMBS (Aug 24, 2009)

*Agreed.*



tenrec said:


> I didn't notice any difference between the "low-end" 4.7 and the OCLV 5.5, which is why I went with the 4.7. As far as crashing, that's true for any carbon frame versus a metal frame. As for the rims, I've hit some pretty scary things at speed with my 4.7 -- once hard enough to flatten a tire -- and they are still perfectly true and perfectly intact. I have no problems with the durability of the stock wheels.
> 
> Steve


I've had a nearly identical experience, and I'd have to say the poster previous to tenrec doesn't really know what he's talking about in this instance/had some bad luck and is projecting it unfairly onto this bike...That coupled with a little bit of anti-low-end carbon hating makes for a really forgettable comment IMO...


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## karlmichael (Sep 17, 2009)

WhyRun said:


> Personally, I've ridden the 4.5 and 4.7 and for $2,200 - $2,700 you'd be entirely better off with an aluminum frame bike like the Cervelo S1. The bike just feels flimsy under power. The lower end carbon stuff shows. (Don't forget the 5.2+ have a RXL fork, while the 5.1 and down have RL fork too).
> 
> You're paying a premium for cheap taiwanese carbon frames with Trek on it. If you want Trek carbon, wait until the end of the model year and buy a closeout. You can get some great deals at LBS. A guy a ride with got a 2009 5.2 for under $3k late last fall. Plus, you crash the aluminum frame, you've got a few dings, you crash the "carbon" bike its done. If you're worried about price, entry level carbon isn't worth your time.
> 
> Oh, and make sure to check for cracked rims OFTEN. Those bonty wheels are not durable at all. I would advise switching out to at least Ksyrium Elite when you get the bike new. Otherwise you're going to find yourself going to the LBS often to get warranty replacement rims far too often.


One more post by an elitist D bag. Why cant people just be happy we found a bike we like and that we could afford? Yes aluminum frames are stiffer but my ass was tired of those. this guy who posted i bet would ride past us if we had a flat tire and not offer help. Sad world we live in..just sad.... Well im sure most of us wont lose sleep over this guy.

karl


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

*Performance Geometry*

The 4.7 has Trek's "performance" geometry, with the 30mm higher head tube than the "pro" fit of the more race-oriented Madones. Does this slight change make much of a difference? The performance-fit Madones are not what Bicycling magazine would call "plush" rides, are they? I still find I need quite a forward-leaning posture to ride comfortably.

Steve


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

GASP. An elitist suggesting that a cheaper aluminum frame may be a better choice than carbon. That's new. I guess it is fair for someone to come in here and provide opinions, and only allow people to agree. I felt a ton of FLEX in the 4 series frames, and flex is NOT good.

Personally, I disagree. I had a Trek 2.3 for a while as one of a number of bikes, and few upgrades, it was still less than $1700. I miss the thing, should never have sold it. A full $1000 less than the 4.7 list price. There are so many carbon bikes out there, and even more great aluminum bikes. I suppose if I had come in here suggesting someone should spend an extra grand or two because its that much better, I might understand the childish insults.

Oh, and if you don't believe me about the wheels, just browse this forum, there are more than enough pictures confirming my concerns.


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## ralph1 (May 20, 2006)

tenrec said:


> The stock wheels have proven to be very durable under my adverse riding conditions. My son, who has no interest in bicycles, commented on how light they were when he picked one up. If I do change anything at some point, I'll probably go for lighter wheels.


Hi,

You said you are 6' 3" what size frame is yours? 60 or 62cm, how heavy is it? and how is the BB flex if any? I am looking at the 2010 4.7, less wheels.

cheers

ralph


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

I'm riding a 60cm frame. I don't know the weight as I have never weighed it, although I am curious myself. As for frame flex, there is some, but definitely less than my old steel road bike or my more recent aluminum hybrid. The way I can detect it is that under heavy pedal load (fast acceleration or riding uphill), I sometimes hear more drivetrain noise from the front derailleur than when I'm not pedaling as hard. I'm not sure how else I would detect it.


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

*My New Madone*

I just got my 4.7 and she's absolutely gorgeous!!! I'll post a pic later.

I haven't been able to ride her because of the crappy wx we're having here in Chicago. But, I have been on a trainer trying to get used to the clipless pedals. I'm determined not to fall like all you experts say that I will. The problem I'm having is that I can't sit on this seat for more than 10 mins. :cryin: The lbs guys are advising me to ride her for a few miles and then decide if I need a new seat. I don't know that I'll make it that long. I even wore some biker underwear with biker shorts on top for double protection. My butt bones still can't take it. Any suggestions?


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

Your trek dealer should carry some standard bontrager saddles in his shop. And with those comes the sizing pad. While not perfect, the gel filled pad shows roughly the width of your sit bones (you sit on it, and it shows the width via two spots against a color coded sheet of metal). Have you tried it? Bonty sells 3 width saddles. Perhaps you need a slightly wider saddle? (The alternative is the guy grabbing your ass and figuring out where your sitbones line up on the saddle though, so unless you're someone who has no problems with personal boundaries, the measuring device is a solid option.)

OR. go on competitive cyclist, and do their saddle demo program: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/demo-saddle
One week to sit on 12 individual pieces of molded carbon, metal and plastic and find out which one fits your ass the best. Also an excellent option. Good luck.

I would advise against layers, it creates friction, which causes other problems worse than mere sore sitbones. And 10 minutes is too short for pain to be developing, so it is the saddle or your body. If it was after about an hour, it may be a breaking in period, but 10 minutes... sounds problematic...

Edit: One more thing, I think. The nice thing about Bonty saddles is the (3 month I believe) No Questions Asked return policy. Save the receipt and packaging card. If you have a problem or it doesn't fit, even if you used it, you can take it back and get a different one. (at least this was the deal when i got my RXL)


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

WhyRun said:


> Your trek dealer should carry some standard bontrager saddles in his shop. And with those comes the sizing pad. While not perfect, the gel filled pad shows roughly the width of your sit bones (you sit on it, and it shows the width via two spots against a color coded sheet of metal). Have you tried it? Bonty sells 3 width saddles. Perhaps you need a slightly wider saddle? (The alternative is the guy grabbing your ass and figuring out where your sitbones line up on the saddle though, so unless you're someone who has no problems with personal boundaries, the measuring device is a solid option.)
> 
> OR. go on competitive cyclist, and do their saddle demo program: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/road-bikes/demo-saddle
> One week to sit on 12 individual pieces of molded carbon, metal and plastic and find out which one fits your ass the best. Also an excellent option. Good luck.
> ...


I'll choose option 1 unless they hire a hot blonde woman before I get there.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

10 minutes sounds like a problem. I'm finding that the standard saddle is not the most comfortable in the world (as others have commented), but it doesn't bother me after 10 minutes. When I first started riding the 4.7, I could do about 30 or 45 minutes before it began to become uncomfortable. After riding for a few weeks and getting used to it, it took much longer before it started to bother me. Now I can do a 2-hour ride without the seat being a major problem. Therefore I think that there is an element of adjustment. Having said that, if you're uncomfortable after 10 minutes, I suspect there is a problem other than the seat. I suspect a bike fit issue. How did you decide on the frame size? Did the LBS fit you for saddle and handlebar positions? These must be right if _any _saddle is to be comfortable.


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

tenrec said:


> 10 minutes sounds like a problem. I'm finding that the standard saddle is not the most comfortable in the world (as others have commented), but it doesn't bother me after 10 minutes. When I first started riding the 4.7, I could do about 30 or 45 minutes before it began to become uncomfortable. After riding for a few weeks and getting used to it, it took much longer before it started to bother me. Now I can do a 2-hour ride without the seat being a major problem. Therefore I think that there is an element of adjustment. Having said that, if you're uncomfortable after 10 minutes, I suspect there is a problem other than the seat. I suspect a bike fit issue. How did you decide on the frame size? Did the LBS fit you for saddle and handlebar positions? These must be right if _any _saddle is to be comfortable.


The lbs did fit do a fitting for me. They took out all these instruments to measure my inseam, had me sit on other bikes in the shop before ordering mine. Then when my bike came in, they measured me with an oversized protractor to make sure that all the angles were right. We made some adjustments to the height of the seat and the stem. I said that the seat was uncomfortable then, but I was encouraged to ride it first not only by the salespeople but by my neighbor who is an avid cyclist. That same neighbor allowed me to borrow his trainer to practice clipping, and I can't stand to sit on the bike more than 10 minutes.


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

You're still talking sit bones right? Is this your first time on a roadbike? The sit bone discomfort should be a first 200 miles on a roadbike issue. I've switched between saddles to find the right one, but its usually not the sit bones that tell me that the new saddle is wrong, (unless it's one of those 130mm width saddles, I'm a pretty small 5'10" 165lb, but even my skinng ass doesn't fit on them). 

Honestly, the competitive cyclist deal is pretty solid. Order up a few saddles and give them a shot. Might find something you like. (Then just find it some where else online discounted). I've known some folks to try 10-15 saddles before finding the right fit.


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

WhyRun said:


> You're still talking sit bones right?


I think so. I don't know if it's my bones, my glute muscles, the saddle, the bike, my brain, etc. I just know that it doesn't feel right.



WhyRun said:


> Is this your first time on a roadbike?


This is not my first time on a road bike. I test rode a 4.7 late last summer. I rode it about 20 miles. This is my first time owning a road bike. Up until now, I've been riding a Schwinn Sprint that I got in 1988.


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

I only ask because it could take a while if you're new to the whole road saddle. I remember my first ride 30 miles. Couldn't sit for 2 days. 

Is the saddle level with the ground, it's possible that its mounted at a weird angle. A third option would be to head to another bike shop, and get a second opinion. Never know what you might find.

I would also recommend positing this as a new thread in one of the general forums, maybe someone else has a great idea that you could try as well...


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

WhyRun said:


> I only ask because it could take a while if you're new to the whole road saddle. I remember my first ride 30 miles. Couldn't sit for 2 days.
> 
> Is the saddle level with the ground, it's possible that its mounted at a weird angle. A third option would be to head to another bike shop, and get a second opinion. Never know what you might find.
> 
> I would also recommend positing this as a new thread in one of the general forums, maybe someone else has a great idea that you could try as well...


I'm not sure I'll make it 30 miles on this saddle. 

The saddle is level, no weird angle. I'm going to visit another bike shop either today or tomorrow.

Posting this to a new thread I think would be a great idea. However, I've noticed that many posters are a little peeved when someone starts a new thread on a topic that they feel is being discussed in another thread.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

antonlove said:


> I'm not sure I'll make it 30 miles on this saddle.
> 
> The saddle is level, no weird angle. I'm going to visit another bike shop either today or tomorrow.
> 
> Posting this to a new thread I think would be a great idea. However, I've noticed that many posters are a little peeved when someone starts a new thread on a topic that they feel is being discussed in another thread.


Get some time in the saddle first. I wouldn't even consider recommending a new saddle to a new rider until he/she has some time in the saddle. It is going to take much more than 30 miles for your ass to get used to being on a road bike. Give it some time.

If, after that, you really are being bothered by the saddle, then it is time to start looking for a saddle fitting.

Demo them at your LBS; try your riding buddy(ies) saddles; as suggested, try the CC saddle demo program.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

It sounds like they were pretty thorough. What sort of bike did you ride before? I rode a hybrid, and because of its very upright position, my hands would hurt after just a few minutes on the Madone. (I distribute my weight much more evenly between hands and butt on the Madone; most of my weight is on the seat when I'm on the hybrid.) Strangely enough, though, since I started riding the Madone I don't get numbness in my hands, which I do get after 30 or 40 minutes on the hybrid.


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

*My First Impression*

Today was the first day that I had the opportunity to ride my Madone. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as warm as I had hoped. SHE PERFORMED WONDERFULLY!!! I have no idea how I could've ridden that Schwinn Sprint for so long after riding my Madone. My avg over 45 miles is up a full 3 mph over the other bike. (I must admit that I rode with some more experienced cyclists today, and I'm sure that contributed to the better performance as well.) And, as for the seat, I'm sure that I won't be able to sit for a while. The guys were asking me to ride with them tomorrow, but I'm already anticipating my butt bones giving me major problems. But, I can say that I'm glad I made the 45 miles. After my previous experience on that saddle, I thought I would turn around and go home after only a few miles.


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## tenrec (Jul 30, 2009)

Sounds like you had a great ride, although I don't know how you did 45 miles if the seat is as bad as you say. I rarely ride that far, although I did a 30 mile ride last week. I find that as I ride the Madone more, I get used to it more, including issues like the saddle and the differences in ride characteristics from my previous bike (the hybrid). I suspect that at least a portion of the trouble you're having with the saddle stem from adjustment issues and will diminish as you get used to the new bike.

I'm glad you appreciated the performance of the Madone -- isn't it a great bike? Really sharp handling and precise control. I think it's funny that you refer to it as a "she" -- I think you should call her "Madonna." ; D


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## antonlove (Sep 30, 2009)

tenrec said:


> Sounds like you had a great ride, although I don't know how you did 45 miles if the seat is as bad as you say. I rarely ride that far, although I did a 30 mile ride last week. I find that as I ride the Madone more, I get used to it more, including issues like the saddle and the differences in ride characteristics from my previous bike (the hybrid). I suspect that at least a portion of the trouble you're having with the saddle stem from adjustment issues and will diminish as you get used to the new bike.
> 
> I'm glad you appreciated the performance of the Madone -- isn't it a great bike? Really sharp handling and precise control. I think it's funny that you refer to it as a "she" -- I think you should call her "Madonna." ; D


I had a wonderful ride on "Madonna."  I was surprised that I made it 45 miles too. But, some of the responses said that I have to get used to a road saddle, so I decided to try to tough it out. My Schwinn has one of those huge comfy seats with padding like a pillowtop mattress, so this is going to be a HUGE adjustment. 

At one of the stops, we made an adjustment to the saddle which seemed to help, a little. But, I've decided to give this saddle a try for a couple of hundred miles (as suggested by WhyRun. THANKS) before I decide that I can't bear it anymore. The pain over the course of the ride wasn't as excrutiating as I anticipated. Perhaps my butt got numb and I couldn't feel it anymore. 

She handles just like you mentioned in your review. She handles like a dream. The shifting was was instantaneous. And, she only weighs 18 lbs. 

One thing I can say is that I'm glad I upgraded to the 53/39 Sram Force crank. I read some reviews about the compact crank and people seem to generally love it. At first, I thought I was making a mistake. But, I road with some members of a club who were kind enough to allow me to join them on a training ride yesterday. They would've dropped me if I had that compact crank, or I probably would have had to ride on the big ring all day. I would describe myself as an above-average recreational cyclist. But, on this bike, my performance went through the roof. I rode with these guys before, but never was I able to ride like this. (They woud deny it, but I always knew that they were taking it easy on me.) After this ride, they even suggested that I can join them on some more difficult rides with some of their stronger riders on hilly terrain. (If I ride with them on the hilly terrain, perhaps I'll regret not getting the compact crank on that day.) I'm going to take baby steps. I'm not sure I'm ready for all that, but it's nice to know that they think that I did ok yesterday. Now, if I can just get my butt to stop hurting enough to ride her again.


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