# CAAD 10 build help



## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)

What size headset/headset spacer? What size seat post /seat post collar? And finally where can I get the cable guides below the BB? I what type of grease for the BB? Anything else I am not thinking if?

Thanks -I am getting ready to start my build and I want to have all the stuff ready!


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## macca33 (Oct 24, 2012)

You can buy most things you're after from 'Cannondale Experts' online.

Seatpost is 27.2mm

Seatpost clamp is 30.9mm


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## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)

I started this the other day. I am using a takeoff 105 groupset from ebay, my C24 wheels, the seat and post from my new Epic and some alloy 3t ergo bars. I am having a blast and gaining lots of knowledge. Next time will be much faster!

A few CAAD10 questions

the headset doesnt feel too secure - the fork is rattles around a little unless it is held up by the stem - normal?

bb30 Bottom bracket...just play around with the washers until tight but the wavy washer is not flat? for right now on each side i have (from inside out) the retaining clips, the bearings, the black rings with sram lettering, and a black plastic washer. On the non drive side 2 plastic washers and the wavy metal washer.

the fork has a plastic ring inside the brake mount hole...this is loose. is it necessary? should I just improvise something here?


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## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)




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## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)

anyone?


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## macca33 (Oct 24, 2012)

Sorry mate, haven't been back to this forum for a bit - what are your specific queries?

I'll try and assist where I can - as a self-trained bike mechanic who recently built up my own CAAD 10-5 from a frameset.

cheers


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## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)

thank you macca

here is what i am trying to figure out



the headset doesnt feel too secure - the fork is rattles around a little unless it is held up by the stem - is this normal?

bb30 Bottom bracket...just play around with the washers until tight but the wavy washer is not flat? for right now on each side i have (from inside out) the retaining clips, the bearings, the black rings with sram lettering, and a black plastic washer. On the non drive side 2 plastic washers and the wavy metal washer.

the fork has a plastic ring inside the brake mount hole...this is loose. is it necessary? should I just improvise something here?


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## Nubster (Jul 8, 2009)

I can see now from the pic that the steerer tube needs cut. This is a new frame and fork? If so, the steerer is full length and needs cut to length. The cap on top should be applying pressure to the top of the stem which pulls up on the fork. 

Once you determine the correct length, cut the steerer tube so it's just slightly below the top of the stem...attach the stem to the steerer so it's nice and tight then tighten down the cap that way the it applies enough pressure to keep the fork tight against the lower headset.


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## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

Once you have your steerer tube cut to get the fork snug:

1. separate the expander from the top cap

2. expand the expander to the point where you have to press it down into the tube (but should still fit)

3. expand the expander farther till it gets snug/hand tight (only to the point where it is not going to move, nothing extreme). 

-the middle of the expander should overlap w/the bottom stem bolts

4. install the top cap and torque it down to 6nm. This step will tighten the fork up. 

I had issues with installing it at first, but the lbs showed me what I was doing wrong and this is how they did it.


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## macca33 (Oct 24, 2012)

This (and the accompanying text copied from the Cannondale User Manual) may assist re the Fork/stem:



The following procedure should only be completed by a professional bike mechanic.
1. Assemble the fork, headset, spacers, and stem without tightening the stem bolts onto the head tube. When
the system is assembled, the carbon steerer tube should be 2-3 mm below the top stem. All spacers must be
located below the stem and within the maximum stack height as shown. No spacers may be used above the stem.
2. Set-up the compression assembly before inserting it. Adjust the length so that the expander is located at
lower stem bolt. The top cap and the expander end provides critical support to the carbon steerer when
tightening the stem bolts. Adjust the length by threading the top cap on the expander parts.
3. When the assembly is the correct length, insert it into the steerer tube. It is designed to fit snugly inside the steerer. Insert a 5 mm Allen key through the access hole in the TOP CAP and into the EXPANDER BOLT.
Tighten the expanding parts by turning clockwise to 6.8Nm, 5 ftLbs.
4. Now, to set bearing preload, insert a 6mm allen key into the hex shape in the TOP CAP itself. Turn the entire top cap clockwise to increase preload. Turning it counter-clockwise will decrease the preload. When the headset preload feels correct, turn the stem to align the handlebar and tighten the stem fork clamp bolts to the torque specified for the stem. Consult the stem manufacturer’s instructions. The torque values for components are often marked on the part.

*Also*, as Team Sarcasm indicated, the fork needs to be cut - so that it is 2-3mm lower than the top face of the stem, to enable the top cap to exert pressure on the assembly to tighten it up into the frame headtube - all explained/depicted above re the assembly. So, as your bike sits pictured, you need to mark and cut the fork approximately 2-3mm lower than the height of the top face of the stem. You can do this - carefully - with a good hacksaw. 

*As* for the crankset spacers, the idea is to have one bearing shield/dust cover on the drive side against the bearing, with one nylon spacer outside that if necessary, then on the non-drive side, the bearing shield/dust cover against the bearing, the least amount of nylon spacers required, then the wave washer. The amount of spacers required varies - tolerances - but must be set so that when the crank bolt is torqued up to specifications - 38-41Nm, the wave washer is compressed to a degree, but not flattened - as a wave washer needs to have some 'wave' to absorb any lateral movement in the crank system - its intended function.

*As* for the plastic plug/sleeve in the fork where the caliper/caliper bolt is positioned, can be removed.

HTH and good luck.

cheers


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