# Which series of Speedplay Pedals would be best for me?



## jpersonette11 (May 11, 2012)

Hi there, 

I'm new to cycling. I finally bought a bike and went with a Cannondale Synapse Hi-Mod 2. 

IMy goal is not so much to race, but rather be aggressive, do longer rides, get into a routine, and hopefully stay healthy. Comfort is an issue, so we felt that the slightly more relaxed geometry on the Synapse may help my back and more. But I may tri to do my first triathlon this year. More to complete than compete. 

So I have bike here with no pedals. I am trying to understand the 2 hole, 3 hole, 4 hole patterns, and for some reason, thought I would give SPEEDPLAY a try. I bought a pair of Shimano sh-240 shoes, so I'm led to believe they will work with most pedals. 

I am obviously not a pure racer, so I don't know if I would recognize the benefit's from the highest end pedals. I also don't know if I need my pedals brand new, so maybe I can get more pedal for less if I went used. I see that there are many different models: X1, zero's, stainless, etc. I can't quickly understand the purpose or difference between each series, but have noticed some phrasing around "variance in the float" and differences in weight. Other than that, I'm at a loss. 

I don't know which series is more meant for the type of rider and the type of riding I want to do. I want to be aggressive. I want to push myself, and I want to learn how to acknowledge and improve on technique. I want to move forward and buy something in the next couple days, so I can get this bike built and start my summer. 

Thanks again....and if anyone feels I should not consider SPEEDPLAY or that they won't work with my shimano sh-r240 shoes...please let me know. If you feel I should look elsewhere or buy something else, I can completely respect that and would love to hear. 

Thanks - John

P.S. Does the speedplay cleats fit right onto my sh-r240 shoes, or do I think I am reading that I need another "adapter cleat" to fit on it first. Anyone know?


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## EuroSVT (Sep 15, 2011)

I'll add what I can: I have the Zero Stainless and love them! I come from a mostly mountain biking background, so SPD's were what I knew. Road biking, it was just for fitness, to enhance my Mtb riding. So, I used SPD's on road bikes too. This past year I manned up and got my first dedicated road pedal. These things are so much fun! Super easy engagement, very predictable release, most of all being able to dial in the float to exactly what I like. The hardest part was setting the cleat position. I did it right, but had to check with a friend at an LBS to make sure. I went with the stainless axle to save a touch of weight, and because I didn't want to shell out the cash for TI. I haven't ridden the other Speedplay's so I can't add anything to that. Think one model is supposed to be easier entry for beginners, and they have less options for dialing in the float. If you do go Speedplay, get the grease injector, and dry lube for the cleat, as well as the cafe covers.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

They are great. They present a BIG platform for your foot to push against (relieves hotspots). BUT they do take breaking-in. Sometimes the aid of a file. But once worn-in, they are great. 

Don't forget to spray PFTE-enhanced lubricant before every day's riding. And pump in the lube every month or so.


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## jpersonette11 (May 11, 2012)

Thanks. Even after reading your reply, I get even more excited. So let's say I find a pair of Zero Stainless. Do I understand the other parts I need: 

1. Speedplay cleats that fit Zero pedals 
(are they specific to Zero's or do all Speedplay cleats work for every series), 

2. Mounting adapter for 3 hole pattern on shoe 
(so it goes shoe, moutning adapter, speedplay cleat, correct?)

3. Cleat covers (called Cafe Covers, right?)

4. Grease Injector, Dry lube

Now for dumb questions:

Setting the cleat position: Can you explain a bit more? Is it when you have to attach it to the shoes? 

Easy engagement: I assume that's either when you are snapping in your shoe, or engaging with the rotation of the pedal?

Predictable release: Is that when you are trying to snap out?

Dial in the float - Adjusting it the way you want: Can you explain the float to me? When you want more float, and when you want to set it at 10 or 15%. I read different things and am trying to figure out exactly what it is, and what environments you are riding to want to adjust to certain specific settings?

Do you feel it's imperative to buy new, or if I find a used set with little wear....is that fine, also? 

Thanks so much for this....it's a huge help.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

*1. Speedplay cleats that fit Zero pedals 
(are they specific to Zero's or do all Speedplay cleats work for every series), *

Cleats are pedal specific.

*2. Mounting adapter for 3 hole pattern on shoe 
(so it goes shoe, moutning adapter, speedplay cleat, correct?)*

Yep that's correct. All the stuff is in the box. Instructions are in the box and also on their website.

*3. Cleat covers (called Cafe Covers, right?)*

Yep, don't walk around in any dirt/grit/mud without them! I've had all pedal types and Speedplay are the most contamination-sensitive by far. S/play cleats are also the most slippery so be very careful walking on hard, smooth surfaces if you don't have the covers on.

*4. Grease Injector, Dry lube*

Yes. Take the cleats apart once in a while and clean them out. Just make sure you get that spring in the right way up too. Don't ask me how I know.  

*Now for dumb questions:*

There are no dumb questions. Ok, there are but yours aren't.

*Setting the cleat position: Can you explain a bit more? Is it when you have to attach it to the shoes? * 

Yes. You need them both in the same place. You'll see slots in the shoe where the adapter can be adjusted. Just get them both the same and neutral in the slots. There is no need to do anything extreme. Same for mounting the cleat to the adapter with the 4 screws. Follow the instructions on 4-screw tightness to the letter - or the cleat will bind and release will be much harder or even impossible. Speedplay are the most finicky pedal on the market but one of the best when set up right.

*Easy engagement: I assume that's either when you are snapping in your shoe?*

You got it.

*Predictable release: Is that when you are trying to snap out?*

Yes it is.

*Dial in the float - Adjusting it the way you want: Can you explain the float to me? When you want more float, and when you want to set it at 10 or 15%. I read different things and am trying to figure out exactly what it is, and what environments you are riding to want to adjust to certain specific settings?*

Float is there to protect knees. It allows the knee to track naturally (for *you*) as it rises and falls. There is no right and wrong here. Just mount the cleats, ride the bike and rotate your foot and feel if there is too much or not enough float. It takes a tiny Phillips screwdriver to make the adjustment. With less outward float the cleat release starts sooner.

*Do you feel it's imperative to buy new, or if I find a used set with little wear....is that fine, also? * 

I'm sure it's fine to buy used - if all the parts are there and there isn't too much wear, especially on the cleats. But cleats are expendable and easily (if not cheaply) replaceable. I keep a spare pair in stock at all times.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Screwed up dubble poast dee-leeted.


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## rgg01 (Jun 21, 2011)

I have the zero chromoly and I would say that you're wasting your money buying the stainless ones, they save a few grams in weight but that's it. Pay really close attention to setting the cleats up on the bottom of your shoes, they have an online list which matches the shims to the type of shoes you have so they fit as closely as possible, set them up centred to start with, use the holes for this then tweek the fit as you get used to the feeling, don't mess with the float screws until you're sure what you're doing. These cleats/pedals are touted as easy in/out- they won't be to start with, the engagement is difficult for a while, don't screw the cleats on too tightly (there's instructions on this as well) and make sure you dry-lube them before use and every couple of rides. Mine got nice and easy to clip in to after about 10 uses. Getting out of them is easy but you have to get the angle of outward pressure correct to do so.


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## kbwh (May 28, 2010)

For correct cleat position read Steve Hogg:
POWER TO THE PEDAL – CLEAT POSITION » Bike Fit » Feet » Steve Hogg's Bike Fitting Website

It's also nice to know that the Zero Stainless has as standard a 3 mm longer axle than the Ti, and it can also be bought with even longer axles. The Ti axle can be a bit short if you have wide feet or pedal toe out.


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## Schneiderguy (Jan 9, 2005)

my banged up knee loves the Zeros and not the ones with the uncontrolled float. I have both SS and chromoly and can't tell the difference. I haven't found these sold at discount-have anyone esle? You can pick up a used set on ebay but you will need to buy new cleats and they are $40 I think. When you buy new peddles the cleats come with them.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

rgg01 said:


> These cleats/pedals are touted as easy in/out- they won't be to start with, the engagement is difficult for a while, don't screw the cleats on too tightly (there's instructions on this as well) and make sure you dry-lube them before use and every couple of rides. Mine got nice and easy to clip in to after about 10 uses. Getting out of them is easy but you have to get the angle of outward pressure correct to do so.


The best tip I can give for getting out is to press *down* and rotate *out* at the same time - like 1/2 the movement of rubbing out a cigarette (but how would I know about that?). It works much better than a straight out twist.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Schneiderguy said:


> I haven't found these sold at discount-have anyone esle?


Speedplay are very protective of selling prices and have a long history of intimidation to those who would flout this. They've even threatened legal action against people who sell low on e-bay and have had e-bay pull some ads. Lots of people won't buy S/play because of these tactics.

One fellow was selling aftermarket replacement bearings and instructions and they threatened him bigtime. I'm sure I read this here at RBR a year or two ago. It must be in the archives - unless they got those deleted too.


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## jpersonette11 (May 11, 2012)

Mike T. said:


> *1. Speedplay cleats that fit Zero pedals
> (are they specific to Zero's or do all Speedplay cleats work for every series), *
> 
> Cleats are pedal specific.
> ...



What you have written couldn't be more HELPFUL. Though I still don't have any real time experience, I am starting to understand things a little bit more. Especially certain terms and purposes for why things are they way they are. So thanks.


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## jpersonette11 (May 11, 2012)

kbwh said:


> For correct cleat position read Steve Hogg:
> POWER TO THE PEDAL – CLEAT POSITION » Bike Fit » Feet » Steve Hogg's Bike Fitting Website
> 
> It's also nice to know that the Zero Stainless has as standard a 3 mm longer axle than the Ti, and it can also be bought with even longer axles. The Ti axle can be a bit short if you have wide feet or pedal toe out.


Thanks for this comment. A couple beginner questions: 

Is the axle the piece that pedal is screwing into, which is ultimately being attached to the crankshaft....? If this is true, then just so I understand your point, if it's not that long, then there isn't a lot of room between the bike and the end of the pedal....so you would want a long axle piece to pull it further away from the bike to allow more foot. Am I even remotely correct? Or totally missed it?

How I can I determine which one would be best for me? I don't think I have wide feet, but how do I know if I have pedal toe out? 

Your help is very much appreciated


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

jpersonette11 said:


> What you have written couldn't be more HELPFUL. Though I still don't have any real time experience, I am starting to understand things a little bit more. Especially certain terms and purposes for why things are they way they are. So thanks.


Glad to help. Ask more questions if needed. PM us. Do whatever it takes to get you comfy with pedal knowledge. I've been using clip-in pedals since they came out (for mountain bikes - '85ish, for road bikes - '90ish) and I'm sure others have too. So there isn't much that, between us all, we don't know.


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## zigmeister (Jan 26, 2012)

Best bang for the buck IMO, Zero stainless. Also, you can get longer axles if needed. Easily to maintain...a lot of pros ride them (that should be enough right there to buy them right?!?!)


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I'm still riding an old pair of X/3s. Actually, I'd like to replace them, they've got slop even with fresh grease pumped in now. But it's taken me twelve years, although with varying amounts of riding, to get them to this point. So while I think I'm done with buying them used, I also know I like them and anticipate using the next pair for their entire service life too. Probably even more miles now that I know to grease them.

Definitely get the covers. Big +1 to they contaminate easily and are slippery if you walk around on the bare cleats. Since the mechanism is in the cleat, the cleat costs as much as some pedals. So whether or not money is an issue for you, the cleats will save you some, and also falling on your butt and having engagement/disengagement problems that can come from having grit in the cleat.


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## config (Aug 16, 2002)

rgg01 said:


> I have the zero chromoly and I would say that you're wasting your money buying the stainless ones, they save a few grams in weight but that's it. Pay really close attention to setting the cleats up on the bottom of your shoes, they have an online list which matches the shims to the type of shoes you have so they fit as closely as possible, set them up centred to start with, use the holes for this then tweek the fit as you get used to the feeling, don't mess with the float screws until you're sure what you're doing. These cleats/pedals are touted as easy in/out- they won't be to start with, the engagement is difficult for a while, don't screw the cleats on too tightly (there's instructions on this as well) and make sure you dry-lube them before use and every couple of rides. Mine got nice and easy to clip in to after about 10 uses. Getting out of them is easy but you have to get the angle of outward pressure correct to do so.


Purchase a new set of Zero chromolys. On ebay you can find a vendor who sells the titanium spindles. Buy those and swap the chromoly spindles out. The result is a lighter and better titanium set to the originals. You just have to know the secret of taking them apart. Speedplay is very protective of their products and will threaten all kinds of actions.


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## davelikestoplay (May 27, 2010)

I have a set of zeros. Worth the high price IMO because of the large degree of float, easy on my knees. They are a bit more work than other systems, but again I feel its worth it for me. I second what others have said above about maintanence/covers etc. 

As for the axle (or spindle) length, yes that is the part that screws into the crank. As for determining whether you need the extra spindle length, I suppose a competent and thorough fitter could do it.


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## SlyCross01 (Nov 5, 2008)

I have two sets of SP Light Action pedals, one cromo and the other stainless (plus a set of cromo Frogs on the cross bike). I prefer the stainless shaft because it doesn't rust as easily over time from nicks, rain, sweat, etc. FWIW, the SP manuals lead me to believe that the stainless model has an additional bearing over the cromo version. Functionally, they both behave the same, and my knees love the generous float. 

Like the others said, proper cleat installation and frequent maintenance are a must. Purchase the needle grease gun and cafe covers when you buy the cleats.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

You can also use an extender rather than special order and pay more for a longer axle.


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## Zaqwert6 (Jun 26, 2012)

SlyCross01 said:


> . FWIW, the SP manuals lead me to believe that the stainless model has an additional bearing over the cromo version. Functionally, they both behave the same, and my knees love the generous float.




Thats correct , IIRC the cro-moly version are imports as well.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Well I'm glad I got stainless although it was mainly cause it looked better and matched my spacers.


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## Diopena1 (Jul 21, 2011)

Eh, I never liked extenders,,,, to each his/her own, don't get me wrong.

But I believe it adds another spot where your torque, and pedalling momentum could potentially break the extender... you could search Ward titanium spindles as an upgrade option, they come in different lengths, and are made of titanium. I got mine, and went 5mm wider than stock to clear my chainstay a bit (my shoe was about .5mm away). It has a weight limit of 230, and drops the total weight of the pedals almost by half!


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

The best thing I ever did was get pedal extenders. I've had many fits over the years and until a recent one that used extenders to line up my knees and ankles I've never had such a natural pedal stroke. Speedplay does not make spindles long enough for me and I'm 6' 3" and 260 so prefer strength over lightness any day.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

All opinions, all valid, and here's mine:

Look seriously at the Light Action model. Fine stuff, easy to use, and very few drawbacks to the zero series. If you later decide that limited float is a good idea, zero cleats do work with LA's. The only real difference: LA's release with slightly less twisting force. Absolutely not a negative, unless contesting all-out sprints. In all other situations, either neutral or positive.

The box will contain all that is 'needed' for fitting to three-hole shoes, but consider buying the cleat extender base plate. It will allow more rearward positioning, which some find useful, but is also lighter and stiffer than the stock plastic parts it replaces.

Unless you are completely weight obsessed, the chromo models are fine.

Don't waste money on the grease gun. $6 at your favorite big-box hardware store will solve that problem very well.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Mike T. said:


> Glad to help. Ask more questions if needed. PM us. Do whatever it takes to get you comfy with pedal knowledge. I've been using clip-in pedals since they came out (for mountain bikes - '85ish, for road bikes - '90ish) and I'm sure others have too. So there isn't much that, between us all, we don't know.


Looks came out for road in 1984. There were no clipless shoes at first so they just drilled some holes in my Sidis and slapped some cleats on.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

darwinosx said:


> Looks came out for road in 1984. There were no clipless shoes at first so they just drilled some holes in my Sidis and slapped some cleats on.


I got it back-arsewards - they came out '85ish for road and '90ish for mtb.


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