# I'm the world champ...



## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Well, no..
But I can't wait to build this up! I don't care too much about what it weighs, but just for fun I put the uncut fork on a gram scale, and it was 460.


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## chuckice (Aug 25, 2004)

Nice! Stop sitting around taking pix and build it already!


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## JGUTZ (Dec 13, 2005)

Whooooaaah, she's a beauty. Post some pics of the whole enchilada when she's done. I always liked that colnago color scheme, although it is not offered in the MXL, my dream bike. 


Enjoy


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## dnalsaam (Dec 6, 2004)

Isn't the colour scheme rather wrong on a Colnago nowadays? After today, it should be seen on a Time with full Campagnolo!


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

dnalsaam said:


> Isn't the colour scheme rather wrong on a Colnago nowadays? After today, it should be seen on a Time with full Campagnolo!


Ahh...yes....but this is my tribute to Oscar Freire...
http://www.trialtir-usa.com/2006-colnago/colors/c50-hp/c50hp-pr38.html


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## chuckice (Aug 25, 2004)

gibson00 said:


> Ahh...yes....but this is my tribute to Oscar Freire...
> http://www.trialtir-usa.com/2006-colnago/colors/c50-hp/c50hp-pr38.html


It's retro cool! :thumbsup:


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Just started building it, but can't finish it yet as I'm waiting for the wheels and bar/stem to arrive.
One weird thing...
I got a 28mm Colnago seatpost for it. These is no 27.2 adapter in the frame, so 28 should be fine. I'm finding that I'm really having to force the seat tube in. When I pull it back out (very difficult) very thin small flakes of carbon seem to come out from the inside of the seat tube. It seems like the seat tube needs to be smoothed out on the inside.
Anyone else ever experience this??


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## SPINDAWG (Aug 24, 2003)

*Putting a square peg in a round hole.*

You need to get the 27.2mm post.


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## Clevor (Sep 8, 2005)

Actually the seatpost diameter for a C50 HP is supposed to be 28 mm, far as I can tell by checking the Trialtir site.

I think this WC scheme is nicer than the NL38, the one with the waggy color bands. Since that is painted freehand, the bands tend to vary too much in width. And I don't understand the green flash of paint behind the bands. Hard to match green. 

I also like how the leading edge of the PR38 scheme is white, since it includes most of the fork, fading to natural black weave at the rear of the bike.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

It is also listed as 28.0 mm on Colnago's website.


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## odeum (May 9, 2005)

*the colnago post for my bike*

did not fit either. measured with calipers, it was larger (outside diameter) at the end of the post where it inserts than in the middle region where it clamps. my seat tube inside diameter was very near correct, slightly undersize which is probably intentional for clamping force.
my advice is to not enlarge the frame seat tube inside diameter if this is the case with yours, else you might have clamping problems with slipping or cracking.
measure the post in the above mentioned regions, and the seat tube to verify what is correct with calipers if you can, or get it checked before proceeding, if the post is like mine was, you can either:
-reduce the end of the seatpost diameter with fine sandpaper, or,
-cut off the end if you will not be needing it, if you are near max height post extension this will not work, though, as you need to have some post inserted below the clamp for strength. 

let us know what measurements you get on these.





gibson00 said:


> Just started building it, but can't finish it yet as I'm waiting for the wheels and bar/stem to arrive.
> One weird thing...
> I got a 28mm Colnago seatpost for it. These is no 27.2 adapter in the frame, so 28 should be fine. I'm finding that I'm really having to force the seat tube in. When I pull it back out (very difficult) very thin small flakes of carbon seem to come out from the inside of the seat tube. It seems like the seat tube needs to be smoothed out on the inside.
> Anyone else ever experience this??


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## lpdjshaw (Aug 8, 2004)

*Grease it*

I remember when I built up my C50 that the seatpost was very, very tight but I was a little worried that putting grease on it would cause it to slip eventually so I asked Mike (Maestro) about it. He said it was OK to use grease, actually it was recommended. So I greased it up, stuck it in, tightened it up to spec, marked it with some tape and it hasn't moved since.
Good luck.


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Still building it, waiting for wheels to arrive (1 week, shimano WH7801-SL Scandium) and I can't decide on the bars/stem. Recommendations???
I love the look of the tops of the Deda Alanera bar/stem combo, but I'm not in love with the fact that the tilt of the handlebar cannot be adjusted, not sure if I'll be able to get the brifters where I like them...
Was also considering the FSA Kwing carbon handlebar and kforce stem.
Then again, could just go with a deda newton bar/stem!
So I've stopped worrying about the seatpost, and will worry about it when the bike is ready to come off the stand. I'll probably cut 1 inch off of it, and lightly sand the finish on the remaining lower section of the post and see how that goes.


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Some progress, again, waiting for wheels and bars. Where the saddle is now, is as far as I can get it in without much resistance. I haven't tried any cutting or further sanding since posting the question about it, waiting until I am ready to set the proper seat height. Based on my current set up, I'll need it to go in 1 to 1.5 inches more, maybe a bit less once I put an Arione saddle on there (Rever saddle on their now, but I don't like it comfortwise).. Same with the steerer tube, going to wait to get set up before trimming it down a bit.


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## ciclisto (Nov 8, 2005)

*c 50 seatpost*

i built my c 50 over the summer, same tight seat post hole. I was told correctlly to never use grease on carbon it will break it down. instead I was told to use a little scotch brite pad and lightly (LIGHTLY!) ream it and fit the post after cleaning it out with h20.


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## odeum (May 9, 2005)

*to reduce chance of slipping,*

if the post was larger at the end as i described mine was, it would be preferable to reduce the diameter of the end of the post than enlarge the seat tube, the seat tube inside dameter is prepped precisely from what i have seen. 




ciclisto said:


> i built my c 50 over the summer, same tight seat post hole. I was told correctlly to never use grease on carbon it will break it down. instead I was told to use a little scotch brite pad and lightly (LIGHTLY!) ream it and fit the post after cleaning it out with h20.


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

I managed to borrow a micrometer caliper to easure with. As best I can tell, the seat tube diameter is slightly undersized. I still haven't completed the build, but I did pick up a reducer shim for $15 in case I decide to go that way.


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## Clevor (Sep 8, 2005)

I received my C50 frame last week and will take my time on the build since I already have a TCR Comp 1 as my main ride. I do automotive work so I can check measurements using digital mikes and calipers or a bore gauge.

IMO, it is pretty ridiculous that a frame that sells for as much as $4400 in the US and a seatpost that is one of the most expensive available (usually around $180-190) seems to have such poor quality control.

In addition, I scutinized my frame diligently and I can detect around 3-4 nibs in the paint job - not that I have seen a paint job on a bike frame that is perfect. These are just a tiny grit of clear coat here and there. These can be sanded down with fine grades of sandpaper to 2000 grit and polished back to a fine shine, tho' don't think I will bother.

No doubt the frame/fork is stiff due to the oversized and shaped tubes. Geez, the frame looks an awful lot like an ATB frame to me due to the large diameter tubing. The chainstays are bigger than I thought they would be. I get 1198 gms for a 53 cm frame (with seatpost collar) and 422 for the uncut fork. That comes out to a porky 2.6 lbs for the frame. No wonder you rarely see a C50 much under 16.2 lbs even with full Record. The C50 is not intended as my weightweenie build anyway.

For comparison, my Giant monocoque is down to 15.1 lbs with upgraded (lighter) wheelset, bar, post, stem, skewers, tires, and tubes - for the same cost of the C50 frame alone! And it still has the porky FSA MegaEXO crank and Ultegra groupset. Switching to full DA should drop me down to 14.8 lbs. And I did not pay US prices for the C50 frame BTW, but an Euro price of around $2850 US.

Anyways, thanks for the head's up guys. Since I have a short inseam my post will be inserted deeply so I can just cut off a bit. But I agree with the other poster that it is better to sand down the post lightly rather than the seattube, and use something like anti-seize as a form of lube.


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## Zampano (Aug 7, 2005)

I've been using silicone grease (fishing tackle supply) for a carbon seatpost, and its been trouble-free for about a year.


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

A little more progress. Still need to put the chain on and cable it up, but I'm waiting as I have to send the stem back, as the place I ordered it from sent me an 86 degree stem, and it points up a bit too much for my liking, so sending it back tomorrow for the 82 degree stem. After I get it, I'll trim down the steerer tube. I also have my Look PP296 pedals on it, but I have a set of Time RXS Carbon pedals on the way...although I guess that will cause me to have to lower the saddle by a cm due to the lower stack height....hmmmm...not sure if I'll like the way it looks with the saddle that low!!


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## chuckice (Aug 25, 2004)

:thumbsup: Lookin good!


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## odeum (May 9, 2005)

*it should look fine*

even with the saddle lower, after all, onna smaller frame the amount of both post and drop can reasonably be expected to be proportionately less than on a larger frame...ulitmately, it is the rider's proportions that dictate the fit parameters, 'less you get ernesto a big 'nuff check for custom sizing...



gibson00 said:


> A little more progress. Still need to put the chain on and cable it up, but I'm waiting as I have to send the stem back, as the place I ordered it from sent me an 86 degree stem, and it points up a bit too much for my liking, so sending it back tomorrow for the 82 degree stem. After I get it, I'll trim down the steerer tube. I also have my Look PP296 pedals on it, but I have a set of Time RXS Carbon pedals on the way...although I guess that will cause me to have to lower the saddle by a cm due to the lower stack height....hmmmm...not sure if I'll like the way it looks with the saddle that low!!


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## bing181 (Oct 17, 2005)

dnalsaam said:


> Isn't the colour scheme rather wrong on a Colnago nowadays? After today, it should be seen on a Time with full Campagnolo!


Specialized are now the Quickstep team bike .. so that's what we'll see Bettini on next year.


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## shah (Jul 1, 2005)

*My C50 World Champion*

This is my C50 World Champion.


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

I'm just waiting for a stem to arrive in the mail, hopefully by Monday, to complete my build..


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

*Completed Pics*

All built, just need to cut the steerer tube a bit.


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## gun2head (Sep 3, 2006)

Your personal ride impressions please! Do tell, do tell!


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## gibson00 (Aug 7, 2006)

Was only able to try it for 5 minutes today, but the immediate difference that is noticeable is how smooth it is compared to My Cannondale Six13. That said, completely different wheels on each bike. Clinchers with 115 psi on the Colnago, and conti tubulars on the Cannondale at 120 psi. But the Nago feels sooo much smoother, even just coasting, the difference is noticeable. And that is with the Rever saddle on it, which is incredibly stiff, no give, and will be replaced shortly.


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