# Help needed to economically lighten up my bike



## CXe (Sep 23, 2005)

So I will be taking on the Mount Washington Hill Climb in New Hampshire in August. I last rode this race as a junior in 2001 with a time of 1:09. My goal this year is to break the hour mark and in doing so I will need to put my bike on a diet. If you can give me some suggestions to economically lighten up my bike it would be greatly appreciated. Below is the current specs of my bike. I will be borrowing a light pair of wheels which is the most obvious upgrade. I have also looked at the SRAM Rival compact crankset and perhaps a carbon post. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

Frame/Fork: 2005 Schwinn Fastback LTD
Wheels: Velomax (Easton) Circuit
Tires: Michelin Hi-Lite Prestige
Shifters: Dura-Ace 9-speed
Front Derail: Ultegra
Rear Derail: Dura Ace 9
Chain: SRAM pc-91
Cassette: Ultegra 12x27
Crank: Ultegra 39x53
BB: Ultegra Octalink
Seatpost: Trek/Icon 31.6
Saddle: Fizik Wingflex Rondine
Stem: Ritchey pro 120mm
Bars: Ritchey pro 44cm
Brakes: Dura-Ace 
Cages: Performance Bike stainless
Skewers: Performance Bike Titanium


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## simonton (Mar 11, 2007)

Could you remove the 53 chain ring? I have not done this, but it seems possible. Also could you remove some of the cogs and add spacers-again just guessing.
I have not checked in a while, but there were cheap token carbon saddles on e-bay.
Maybe look at the seat post, I think Performance has a relatively cheap carbon one and you could cut it down to the min you need.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

simonton said:


> Could you remove the 53 chain ring? I have not done this, but it seems possible. Also could you remove some of the cogs and add spacers-again just guessing.
> I have not checked in a while, but there were cheap token carbon saddles on e-bay.
> Maybe look at the seat post, I think Performance has a relatively cheap carbon one and you could cut it down to the min you need.



You need track or single speed chainring nuts. http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Chainring+Bolts&vendorCode=PS&major=8&minor=3

Take off your rear brake since you won't need it.


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## simonton (Mar 11, 2007)

Remove your front derailleur and reroute your cable for your front brake to your rear brifter then remove your front brifter and rear cable. Replace your quick release with nuts (aluminum if you can find the right thread size-you will only use them once).


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## Pablo (Jul 7, 2004)

Cut your hair and excreet as much waste product as possible pre-race.


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## MikeBiker (Mar 9, 2003)

Sand the paint off the frame.


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## Albino (Mar 24, 2007)

Lose the clothes. Well, uh wear as little as possible. Remove the bar tape, drill holes in your frame and cut your seat tube as short as you can.


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## terzo rene (Mar 23, 2002)

Ditch the bottle cages, if you need to use one get a cateye nylon cage for $5 and you can carve off some excess material to get it under 28-30g.

Get some better tires - Deda tre or Vittoria corsa ex. Not so much for weight but lower rolling resistance.

Get a 38 inner ring, save a little weight - and it could be windy. Could go compact and use a 34x25 low but actually a carbon inner ring would be cheaper than going compact.

KMC x10sl chain


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## flat_chipmunk (Jul 16, 2005)

Pablo said:


> Cut your hair and excreet as much waste product as possible pre-race.


Better yet, don't eat for 2 days before, then take double dose Metamucil (or your favorite bulk fiber) to clean out any residual grams of " matter". Guaranteed to drop more weight than ANYTHING you can do to your sled


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## ROGER79 (Dec 29, 2005)

*Instead......*

Instead of picking Flysheet out of pepper, why don't you just go ride and get STRONGER????
It's like peeing in the ocean, you're NOT going to see the level of the ocean get any higher or warm the temp. up any.........
But if you've got all this extra $$$$$ laying around, just send it to ME!!!


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## eddie m (Jul 6, 2002)

Juanmoretime said:


> Take off your rear brake since you won't need it.


You'll need a rear brake for tech inspection, but even cheap single pivot calipers are usually lighter than even Dura Ace dual pivots. You can get rid of the front derailer, or use a downtube lever for it if you need it.

em


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## eddie m (Jul 6, 2002)

simonton said:


> Remove your front derailleur and reroute your cable for your front brake to your rear brifter then remove your front brifter and rear cable. Replace your quick release with nuts (aluminum if you can find the right thread size-you will only use them once).


?????????????????????
Whatever that is, I don't think it will pass tech inspection. 

em


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## eddie m (Jul 6, 2002)

Take the star nut or expander plug out of the fork. It will be fine for the day. An expander nut weighs 40 grams, and it doesn't cost anything to remove it. Do the same with the self-extractor plugs on the cranks.

em


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## Davoosie (Mar 17, 2007)

You can ditch the bartape, front D, smallest or largest chainring (your choice) probally take off 2 out of 3 of your chainring bolts, remove every other spoke from your wheel, sand blast your frame down to bare metal, drill holes in everything to save some more weight. You really only need one brake anyway, and probally dont need any if you are going up hill that being said ditch the STI/ergo levers and use a single downtube shifter. Trying picking up some 140mm cranks, or have them made. Since you are now brakeless use a 650mm front wheel, or even a 20" BMX. Ditch the water bottles and cages and drink dew from the plants or stash water on the course the night before. If its warm out loose the clothes and just ride in cycling shoes, ir if you can find some really light sub-100g flip-flops jb weld your cleats to them and use them. Do you really need a helmet? Probally not since you are on the side of a mountain, if you fall a helmet won't save you anyway, you could time some helium balloons to yourseld to help lighten your kit, if you don't mind the drag that is. And in a fall they make great airbags.


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