# Which Bike Should I Get? Specialized or BMC or Giant?



## Vio1 (Apr 26, 2018)

Hi, Im getting my first decent road bike, and I'm at a loss at which of 3 bikes to get.
My max budget is $2000 Canadian Dollars. I'm looking for a decent bike for fitness purposes. Want a comfortable ride that won't tire my arms and back.

*Option 1: BMC SLX01 105 5700* for $1699 + tax
- Shimano 105 w/Mavi Yksion Powerlink 700x23
https://www.racersportif.com/collections/bmc-bikes/products/bmc-slx01-10-road-bike

*Option 2: Specialized Roubaix SL4* for $1699 + tax
- Tiagra w/ Axis Elite wheels
Wheels of Bloor - Toronto's #1 Road Bike Shop | Road and Triathlon

*Option 3: Giant Contend SL 1 DISC* for $1849 + tax
- Shimano 105 w/Giant Gavia AC 2, 700x25, Tubeless
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/contend-sl-1-disc


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

An oft asked question on here. We know how to field this one. 

The answer is always not what you'd expect to hear:

The most pragmatic piece of advice is to get the bike that fits. Meaning, get the bike that is most suited to your body and how your body sits on the bike. If you're not a 25 year old racer with a body to match you may not want to get the raciest, stiffest bike out there that will necessitate you putting in a stack of spacers just to get the handlebars up high enough to where you are comfortable riding it for extended periods of time.

The second piece of advice I can impart - and is echoed by many - is to get the bike that excites you... if you're 40 and a desk jockey get the bike on which you imagine yourself to be flying right there with the peloton. Get the bike that looks good to you. If you get a bike based on someones recommendation but it doesn't do it for you, you may find that you don't throw your leg over the frame as often, which would be a shame.


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## Vio1 (Apr 26, 2018)

9W9W said:


> An oft asked question on here. We know how to field this one.
> 
> The answer is always not what you'd expect to hear:
> 
> ...


Thanks for your input. Anyone of these is really nice, but im not sure about the technical details. Are one of these manufactures better then others? Should I go for 105 over Tiagra?


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## El Scorcho (Dec 14, 2005)

My .02

Buy the bike that excites you and makes you want to go ride it.


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## eboos (Mar 22, 2011)

The 5700 105 groupset is 10 speed, as is the Tiagra. All else being equal (frame quality, wheelset, etc.) the 105 group is better. However, I think you will find yourself getting annoyed that you didn't get an 11 speed group like the 5800 105 group on the Giant.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> Are one of these manufactures better then others?


No.



> Should I go for 105 over Tiagra?


Not if the Tiagra-equipped bike fits and feels better to you overall. The difference between the groups is small, and shouldn't outweigh more important factors. If you're comparing two otherwise equally desirable bikes, the component group might tip the balance, but it isn't the most important thing.


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## Vio1 (Apr 26, 2018)

Is there any good reason to choose a carbon frame over aluminum?


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Since you mention + tax in all the prices I'm assuming they are all new and sold at a bike shop. If that's the case the BMC seems overpriced for how outdated it is. You may find a better deal somewhere if you wait a bit and keep looking. I know you are in Canada but in the USA the last couple years I feel like it's been fairly easy to find sub-$2000 bikes on clearance that have full 11-speed Ultegra.


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## eboos (Mar 22, 2011)

Vio1 said:


> Is there any good reason to choose a carbon frame over aluminum?


The answer is more complicated than simply a yes or no. It really depends on the build quality and characteristics of either frame. At this price point, you are more likely to find a decent quality aluminum frame. The carbon frames at this price point are the manufacturer's lowest level (not to say that they are poor in any way though).


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## ngl (Jan 22, 2002)

I agree with the earlier replies. Also note that roubaix carbon frame is sweet and it's not of low end build quality. 

A couple of additional things to consider:
1. Try to buy from a dealer you want to do business with over the long haul.
2. There is little difference between 11 speed and 10 speed in my opinion. Yes the 11 speed is the later technology, but, 10 speed works excellent. The main difference is you get one more gear with 11 speed. Unfortunately that extra gear is the 11 tooth cog, most people don't have the power to utilize it (maybe you do) and there are few choices if you want to replace it. With 10 speed you can purchase a cassette (or negotiate a swap with the dealer) to just about any gearing you want to fit your requirements.


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## greatestalltime (Aug 20, 2012)

I’d get the Giant. 11spd. Discs which I don’t have, but many love them and they look good. Looks are a big factor to many and I find that reasonable.


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## mtrac (Sep 23, 2013)

You need to ride all three. More than likely, one will stand out. Bikes aren't fungible.

Based on specs I like the Giant, especially if you ride in areas where you can take advantage of its brakes and gearing.

I would look askance at a new bike with a 5700 groupset. While there is no shame in it per se -- I have it on my bike and it's given me many happy miles -- it is now two generations old, Shimano having released the R7000 this month.

I don't know much about the Tiagra, other than it's speced to allow the mfr to hit a price point and I'd expect something better on a $2K bike.


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## steelbikerider (Feb 7, 2005)

Buy local and look at Argon 18.


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

Honestly, I would go with the Giant, because they spec a hell of a bike for the price. Hydraulic disc brakes are really nice- especially if you ride a lot in the hills or in the rain. They give you a lot of tire size options, which pretty much negates any "superior ride quality" claims of the carbon options. Tubeless ready wheelset. 11 speed isn't any great upgrade over 10 (I still run exclusively 10 speed), but the advances in electronic shifting and hydraulic braking have occurred mostly in the 11 speed era. Parts availability may become an issue for the 10 speed drivetrains in a few years.

If the Giant makes you giggle like a schoolkid, get that one. If another one does, go that way.

I will say I hate white bikes, because they look dirty before I get out of the driveway. However, the BMC has the most red on it, which means it's likely the fastest.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I'd get the Giant if it fit me well - nicer components than the others IMHO.


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

mtrac said:


> I would look askance...


pic?
.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

blackfrancois said:


> pic?
> .


something like this maybe a few more frown lines would be very askance?


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

OP I ride a BMC but of those three *I'd get the Giant *in your *correct size* and ride it with a big smile on your dial for years.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

Most important:

1) Buy the bike that fits you.

2) Buy the bike that feels best to you and makes you excited to ride.

3) Buy from the shop that give you the best service and will give you a detailed fitting with your purchase. A good fitting is one where they put you and your new bike on their trainer, watch you pedal and make small adjustments here and there to dial in your fit just right. 

All others factors such as Tiagra vs. 105, 10-speed vs. 11-speed and even different wheelsets (all are fairly entry level) should be much lesser factors in your decision. You can always replace those down the road if you like. You can't replace your frame if it doesn't fit - well, you can, but that wouldn't be very cost effective considering the labor in transferring components.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

Vio1 said:


> Hi, Im getting my first decent road bike, and I'm at a loss at which of 3 bikes to get.
> My max budget is $2000 Canadian Dollars. I'm looking for a decent bike for fitness purposes. Want a comfortable ride that won't tire my arms and back.
> 
> *Option 1: BMC SLX01 105 5700* for $1699 + tax
> ...


#1 No
#2 Maybe
#3 Probably


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## BelgianHammer (Apr 10, 2012)

I don't have any of these 3 bikes, but if I was choosing, as others have noted, Giant is spec-ing one heck of a bike at that price point. 11-speed, which among other things allows one to be pick up the often missed rear 16T cog as opposed to it being missing in a similar 10-speed setup, is nice.

Plus, you put 700x28 tires on instead of the 700x25 that come with it, and you've suddenly got as comfortable a frame as nearly any carbon bike on the road.

Lastly, once again as others have noted, that Giant Contend (_which is an exact copy dimension-wise of their higher-end endurance "Defy" carbon bikes_) just looks sharper & better.


Good luck whichever direction you go!


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

I'll throw my hat in w/ all the recommendations for the Giant.


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## STRANA (Oct 5, 2013)

+1 for the Giant


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

BelgianHammer said:


> Plus, you put 700x28 tires on instead of the 700x25 that come with it, and you've suddenly got as comfortable a frame as nearly any carbon bike on the road.


I would definitely agree that one deciding factor should be frame clearance for running wider tires. 28mm tires make a big difference in comfort over 25mm tires.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

Vio1 said:


> Hi, Im getting my first decent road bike, and I'm at a loss at which of 3 bikes to get.
> My max budget is $2000 Canadian Dollars. I'm looking for a decent bike for fitness purposes. Want a comfortable ride that won't tire my arms and back.
> 
> *Option 1: BMC SLX01 105 5700* for $1699 + tax
> ...


None of the above. Get yourself a Canyon, specs are better than any of the above by far


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## eboos (Mar 22, 2011)

jaggrin said:


> None of the above. Get yourself a Canyon, specs are better than any of the above by far


Yeah, just head down to the local Canyon dealer and take one out for a spin.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

eboos said:


> Yeah, just head down to the local Canyon dealer and take one out for a spin.


No you can just buy it using your iPad, put it together in 10 minutes and off you go. If you don’t like it, ship it back to them in 30 days no cost to you. Actually much easier than driving around to multiple bikes shops and best part about it all is you get WAY more for your money and the frames are top quality. Heck the Endurace came with top of the line 28 mm continental tires.


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## eboos (Mar 22, 2011)

jaggrin said:


> No you can just buy it using your iPad, put it together in 10 minutes and off you go. If you don’t like it, ship it back to them in 30 days no cost to you. Actually much easier than driving around to multiple bikes shops and best part about it all is you get WAY more for your money and the frames are top quality. Heck the Endurace came with top of the line 28 mm continental tires.


Don't get me wrong, I am pretty much sold on a Canyon as my next bike. I was joking earlier, but the buying experience is not for everyone, and the OP may benefit from dealing with a local shop that can sort out his fit and ensure he gets the comfort that he is looking for.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

jaggrin said:


> No you can just buy it using your iPad, put it together in 10 minutes and off you go. If you don’t like it, ship it back to them in 30 days no cost to you. Actually much easier than driving around to multiple bikes shops and best part about it all is you get WAY more for your money and the frames are top quality. Heck the Endurace came with top of the line 28 mm continental tires.


You can't get a fitting over the internet. If you buy a bike from a shop, you will get that service with the bike. Otherwise, the shop will charge you $100-200 for a fitting.

Also, please tell me how someone who is buying their first road bike will put a boxed bike together in 10 minutes. 

Very bad advice.


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## marathonrunner (Sep 7, 2016)

Assuming you like all three and would be happy with any of the three, and all three will fit you, (suggest you get fit by a certified bike fitter, preferably not at the shop who sold you the bike) I would definitely get the Giant. The most versatile of the three and the best spec for the money.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

marathonrunner said:


> Assuming you like all three and would be happy with any of the three, and all three will fit you, (*suggest you get fit by a certified bike fitter, preferably not at the shop who sold you the bike*) I would definitely get the Giant. The most versatile of the three and the best spec for the money.


Do you mean like that $500 Guru fit? For most, that is overkill and probably not appropriate for a beginner anyway.

A good shop will give you a good fitting with an emphasis on "good shop". There are some not so good shops who won't even watch you pedal on a trainer, but will just eyeball you and make approximations. That is not a good fitting.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

Lombard said:


> You can't get a fitting over the internet. If you buy a bike from a shop, you will get that service with the bike. Otherwise, the shop will charge you $100-200 for a fitting.
> 
> Also, please tell me how someone who is buying their first road bike will put a boxed bike together in 10 minutes.
> 
> Very bad advice.


Okay I will walk you through step by step on how to put a Canyon bike together in 10 minutes.

Step one is to unpackaged the bike-5 minutes
Step two is to put the handlebars on- 3 minutes 
Step three is to put the seat post on- 2 minutes

Any other questions?


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## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

jaggrin said:


> Okay I will walk you through step by step on how to put a Canyon bike together in 10 minutes.
> 
> Step one is to unpackaged the bike-5 minutes
> Step two is to put the handlebars on- 3 minutes
> ...


You must be a total pro.

Unpackaging, there's a lot of crap/wrap to tear off. Install wheel after locating/adding skewer...
Good chance those handlebars don't have bar tape on them. Are the shift levers where they should be on the bars? Probably not. Are all of the cable lengths optimal, anything need to be shortened? if you didn't get a 62 cm frame, then cables/housing probably too long.

Have you figured out the stack that you want? Fiddle with the spaces above/below the stem. Need to cut the steerer tube?

Install pedals.

Start spinning thru the gears. yeah, I'm sure everything is dialed in right off the bat!
Shifts perfectly, FD aligned perfectly, brake pads line up to the rims correctly.

Oh yeah, gotta true those wheels.

I suppose you could slap it together in 10 minutes to see if the bike is close to fitting you but......

Hell, just taking off those annoying safety stickers, wheel reflectors and dork disk will take 10 minutes.

Doing a quality build on a new bike takes time and skill.

Now back to our regular scheduled programming.........


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## ataunque (Feb 7, 2014)

Vio1 said:


> Is there any good reason to choose a carbon frame over aluminum?


From bitter experience, go with aluminium. 
I "invested" £5k in a top end carbon bike, trek domane - never dropped the bike, it suffered a crack to a seat stay and Trek rejected the warranty claim saying it was accidental damage. "offered" me a repair program where i pay £1200 to repair it. 
I had read about this stuff before i purchased the bike but thought they were scare stories maybe where people had crashed or dropped things on the bikes or not looked after them. I should have taken heed. My bike was cherished, wiped down after every ride and never dropped. 
Titanium or steel every time.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

ogre said:


> You must be a total pro.
> 
> Unpackaging, there's a lot of crap/wrap to tear off. Install wheel after locating/adding skewer...
> Good chance those handlebars don't have bar tape on them. Are the shift levers where they should be on the bars? Probably not. Are all of the cable lengths optimal, anything need to be shortened? if you didn't get a 62 cm frame, then cables/housing probably too long.
> ...


maybe you need to introduce yourself to youtube or buy one yourself to see how easy it is to get rolling? I as a Canyon owner can 100% state with fact that the bike comes all dialed in, with bar tape and shifters all ready in place, the wheels trued and in my case with DI2 shifting charged.

Go back to your Cartoon Network and leave the cycling discussion to the adults.


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## BelgianHammer (Apr 10, 2012)

ataunque said:


> From bitter experience, go with aluminium.
> I "invested" £5k in a top end carbon bike, trek domane - never dropped the bike, it suffered a crack to a seat stay and Trek rejected the warranty claim saying it was accidental damage. "offered" me a repair program where i pay £1200 to repair it.
> I had read about this stuff before i purchased the bike but thought they were scare stories maybe where people had crashed or dropped things on the bikes or not looked after them. I should have taken heed. My bike was cherished, wiped down after every ride and never dropped.
> Titanium or steel every time.


Hi ataunque,

Before the RBR ad-motivated moderator police chime in to defend the carbon empire, and to totally discredit your story and attempt to blame you and/or say this is/was an anomaly in all things carbon frame-related, I am sorry that this happened to you. It totally stinks. Especially for those who baby and care for their frames like you obviously do.

It is reading consistent stories like this over the years that provides the reason I still have not moved to any carbon frame. For my own riding, and racing kermesses, steel/ti/alu frames still rule. Especially since I am too old to be sponsored any longer. Carbon will get there on day, on a level with the other 3 frames, I truly believe this. But, even today, they still are not there.

Again, sorry to hear Trek once again pulled their "not honoring" antic when it comes to carbon frames. The dealer who sold you that bike, should be massively ashamed they didn't stand up to Trek about this. I'd never frequent that particular shop again. Is it any wonder that Trek has such a bad word-of-mouth (along with Spesh) name over here in European large clubs with respect to their frame warranty honoring? Wonder too why it is rare to hear these types of stories from riders of Giant and/or Canyon and other carbon frame manufacturers?? They equally number the amount of people one sees on Trek and/or Spesh bikes. Canyon is just slaying Trek & Spesh here in the Belgian/Netherlands/Danish and German markets, and I don't even own one and/or have no skin in the game regarding carbon. How are they doing it??


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## itsnotmyparty (Apr 21, 2018)

ataunque said:


> From bitter experience, go with aluminium.
> I "invested" £5k in a top end carbon bike, trek domane - never dropped the bike, it suffered a crack to a seat stay and Trek rejected the warranty claim saying it was accidental damage. "offered" me a repair program where i pay £1200 to repair it.
> I had read about this stuff before i purchased the bike but thought they were scare stories maybe where people had crashed or dropped things on the bikes or not looked after them. I should have taken heed. My bike was cherished, wiped down after every ride and never dropped.
> Titanium or steel every time.


you already started a thread with your story, are you going to post the same story in every thread?


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

jaggrin said:


> maybe you need to introduce yourself to youtube or buy one yourself to see how easy it is to get rolling? I as a Canyon owner can 100% state with fact that the bike comes all dialed in, with bar tape and shifters all ready in place, the wheels trued and in my case with DI2 shifting charged.
> 
> Go back to your Cartoon Network and leave the cycling discussion to the adults.


 actually, the others are right. If ever I chance to meet you and you offer me to take your bike for a spin, please remind me you only spent 10 minutes from box to riding, because I'd want to go over it first to make sure it's safe. A mechanic who knows what he's doing is gonna take at least around 45 minutes making sure he's got it all done correctly. Newbie following YouTube videos? At least a couple hours. Most brands try to say their bikes are ready to go out of the box, that's never the case. 

Certainly, for someone looking to buy their first bike, online is not the best way to go. Once they know what they like, what works for them, and what they are looking for, online bikes can be a decent option.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

jaggrin said:


> None of the above. Get yourself a Canyon, specs are better than any of the above by far


OP is a novice. The reason Canyon is cheaper is because they don't factor in the one on one advice and assistance, an LBS offers and which many beginners appreciate. OP if you are unsure enough of your choices from the three models you linked to, I think it's better to leave online purchasing until after you have ridden one of the three for a few years. The Giant is still my recommendation.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Jwiffle said:


> Certainly, for someone looking to buy their first bike, online is not the best way to go. Once they know what they like, what works for them, and what they are looking for, online bikes can be a decent option.


Logically correct but the problem is that so many bike shops don't know what they are doing so the in-person advantage is lost and some on-line vendors are actually really good assuming the buyer knows how to use a tape measure.

It boils down to some places are good and some are bad and blanket statements of "bike shop" vs "on-line" don't tell the whole story.


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## BelgianHammer (Apr 10, 2012)

One of the benefits of living in Belgium is that Canyon's huge, Europe-wide Service Center is located in Belgium. Also, it's main Headquarters (in Germany) is located about 50 mins from it close to the Belgian/German border. So, not having to deal with mail order, and no hassles from a dealer with conflicted interests either, I must confess has made me become more interested in Canyon bikes. 

But I honestly am not sure I would/could be interested if I wasn't living here. That's (ordering a bicycle via the web) is a tough nut to crack in keeping all customers happy & content.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

ataunque said:


> From bitter experience, go with aluminium.
> I "invested" £5k in a top end carbon bike, trek domane - never dropped the bike, it suffered a crack to a seat stay and Trek rejected the warranty claim saying it was accidental damage. "offered" me a repair program where i pay £1200 to repair it.
> I had read about this stuff before i purchased the bike but thought they were scare stories maybe where people had crashed or dropped things on the bikes or not looked after them. I should have taken heed. My bike was cherished, wiped down after every ride and never dropped.
> Titanium or steel every time.


Your point about Trek customer/warranty service is well taken. I know at least three people who had cracks develop in the downtubes of their more recent Trek OCLV frames without crashing, dropping off car or any other "abuse or misuse". Trek came back and denied warranty coverage. My shop has stopped selling Trek for this reason and other issues that are making Trek more difficult for a shop to deal with.

That being said, this is not a good enough reason to shun all carbon bikes. Granted I have mixed feelings about carbon in general, but there are many good carbon bikes out there as well as many good Aluminum, Steel and Ti bikes.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

Jwiffle said:


> actually, the others are right. If ever I chance to meet you and you offer me to take your bike for a spin, please remind me you only spent 10 minutes from box to riding, because I'd want to go over it first to make sure it's safe. A mechanic who knows what he's doing is gonna take at least around 45 minutes making sure he's got it all done correctly. Newbie following YouTube videos? At least a couple hours. Most brands try to say their bikes are ready to go out of the box, that's never the case.
> 
> Certainly, for someone looking to buy their first bike, online is not the best way to go. Once they know what they like, what works for them, and what they are looking for, online bikes can be a decent option.


It should be pretty obvious by now that Jaggrin is nothing more than a troll looking for attention. Check out this thread for some of his other posts:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bi...r-carbon-frames-today-364161.html#post5226265 

BTW, I've watched some of the You Tube wrenching videos which are cringe worthy at best. There are a few good You Tube videos, but just as many bad ham fisted ones. I saw one where this hack was tightening a bottom bracket by putting his entire weight on it - YIKES!

Art's Cyclery has some excellent videos and I'm sure some other reputable bike shops as well as bike publications do too. But examine your source carefully. Viewer beware.


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

Lombard said:


> Your point about Trek customer/warranty service is well taken. I know at least three people who had cracks develop in the downtubes of their more recent Trek OCLV frames without crashing, dropping off car or any other "abuse or misuse". Trek came back and denied warranty coverage. My shop has stopped selling Trek for this reason and other issues that are making Trek more difficult for a shop to deal with.
> 
> That being said, this is not a good enough reason to shun all carbon bikes. Granted I have mixed feelings about carbon in general, but there are many good carbon bikes out there as well as many good Aluminum, Steel and Ti bikes.


Fwiw, Giant warrantied a carbon frame for a customer, and it may not have even been a true warranty issue (headset bearing race seized to inside of frame due to sweat, salty sea air, and regular power washing. Trying to get it out resulted in the bonded-in aluminum bearing retainer coming out of the frame). Giant took care of it, anyway. Also, many years ago, our Giant rep actually warrantied a part for a bike for a customer, and it wasn't even a Giant bike!


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

Lombard said:


> It should be pretty obvious by now that Jaggrin is nothing more than a troll looking for attention. Check out this thread for some of his other posts:
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bi...r-carbon-frames-today-364161.html#post5226265
> 
> ...


Here is Lombard directing a newbie to purchase a Canyon. Talk about a troll!!!

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bikes-frames-forks/noob-looking-bike;-have-few-mind-364239.html


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

jaggrin said:


> Here is Lombard directing a newbie to purchase a Canyon. Talk about a troll!!!
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bikes-frames-forks/noob-looking-bike;-have-few-mind-364239.html


Nice job trying to twist my words around. I never said Canyons weren't good bikes. In that case, the OP had Canyon on his list. If you read all my posts in that thread, you would see that I recommended he get fitted.

In this thread, the OP did not list a Canyon. You bait and switched him, then went on a rant about how any average Joe can unpack a boxed bike and be on the road with it in 10 minutes.

Try again.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

Lombard said:


> Nice job trying to twist my words around. I never said Canyons weren't good bikes. In that case, the OP had Canyon on his list. If you read all my posts in that thread, you would see that I recommended he get fitted.
> 
> In this thread, the OP did not list a Canyon. You bait and switched him, then went on a rant about how any average Joe can unpack a boxed bike and be on the road with it in 10 minutes.
> 
> Try again.


Your words , not mine.

To the OP, here is how easy it is to assemble a Canyon and save yourself a bunch of cash. See how easy it is? Don’t believe these posters who are trying to make ITP it to be something it’s not.

Have a Trumptastic day!!!

https://youtu.be/twITjO2i-qE


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

jaggrin said:


> To the OP, here is how easy it is to assemble a Canyon and save yourself a bunch of cash. See how easy it is? Don’t believe these posters who are trying to make ITP it to be something it’s not.
> 
> https://youtu.be/twITjO2i-qE


I think the video is good for people like us who are mechanically inclined. That included torque wrench looks like it's a bit of a toy, but who am I to say it doesn't work?

For a newbie who has never put a bike together in their life, there are a few things missing. Did you seen any details on how tight to make the quick releases? Also, the part about attaching the handlebar to the stem is incorrect. The spacing on the top and bottom should be equal, not the way they did this.

And where is the magic fitter that I was expecting to pop out of the box when he opened it?



jaggrin said:


> Have a Trumptastic day!!!


Wrong forum. This belongs in P.O., not here. You should know the rules by now.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Lombard said:


> I think the video is good for people like us who are mechanically inclined. That included torque wrench looks like it's a bit of a toy, but who am I to say it doesn't work?
> 
> For a newbie who has never put a bike together in their life, there are a few things missing. Did you seen any details on how tight to make the quick releases? Also, the part about attaching the handlebar to the stem is incorrect. The spacing on the top and bottom should be equal, not the way they did this.


-Those type of torque wrenches are actually very good.
-No I don't see details on how tight to make the QR. Nor have I ever heard of that being something bike shops routinely go over.
-Don't know where you got the idea that spacers above should or need to equal spacers below but that's wrong.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

Jay Strongbow said:


> -Don't know where you got the idea that spacers above should or need to equal spacers below but that's wrong.


I think you may have misunderstood what I said and I may have chosen my words wrong. I'm not talking about the spacers on the fork. I am talking about the gap above and below where the step clamp holds the handlebars on.


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## jaggrin (Feb 18, 2011)

Jay Strongbow said:


> -Those type of torque wrenches are actually very good.
> -No I don't see details on how tight to make the QR. Nor have I ever heard of that being something bike shops routinely go over.
> -Don't know where you got the idea that spacers above should or need to equal spacers below but that's wrong.


He tried to tell someone the weight difference between a Cannondale regular frame and hi mod frame was two pounds! Of course he is wrong about the handlebars.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cannondale/hi-mod-vs-regular-carbon-synapse-363900.html


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Lombard said:


> I think you may have misunderstood what I said and I may have chosen my words wrong. I'm not talking about the spacers on the fork. I am talking about the gap above and below where the step clamp holds the handlebars on.


okay. I get it now. I hadn't seen that part of the video either when I first commented.

Canyon is notorious for proprietary parts so I wouldn't be sure it's 'wrong' with their stems but yeah I get what you're saying. And if they designed their stems so that is the way the work best I would think there would be an up side and down side of the clamp thing they should have mentioned.


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## rondi (May 30, 2009)

The OP did not mention what kind of roads he is riding--gravel, steep hills, city riding, etc. those choice might make a difference which he chooses.
One of the most important aspects of buying a bike for a beginner--is to get a real bike fitting, not to choose a bike from the rack of bikes--aka WalMart. Most LBS will at least, put the bike on a trainer and have you ride it to dial in the seat, hopefully swap the stem if it is not correct, and as others have mentioned---do what it takes to make a nice ride. This to me is more important than just choosing any of the 3 bikes the OP mentioned. Choose your LBS with care.


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## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

Lombard said:


> Also, the part about attaching the handlebar to the stem is incorrect.


No mention of greasing the stem bolts, though the bolts could come pre-greased. No mention to incrementally tighten each bolt. I imagine that newbs might tighten one bolt to torque spec before moving on to the next bolt.

No mention what to do if the brake calipers don't hit the rim evenly, if one arm drags. I bet more bikes than not have pads that don't hit the rims symmetrically.

Dammit, that video was 3 and a half minutes! That now means I'm gonna spend 13.5 minutes building a Canyon!

I did wonder after I made my first post if Canyon does some additional prep that comes with their bikes as opposed to bikes traditionally sold thru IBDs, and from the video, it appears they do, but my original points still stand. Any bike out of a box needs the attention of a competent mechanic and is not a quick, cut-and-dry exercise.


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## sjalex (Feb 24, 2018)

Here's a side by side comparison view of options 2 and 3 - https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=giant-contend-sl-1-disc-2018,specialized-roubaix-sl4-2017


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## SwiftSolo (Jun 7, 2008)

Vio1 said:


> Hi, Im getting my first decent road bike, and I'm at a loss at which of 3 bikes to get.
> My max budget is $2000 Canadian Dollars. I'm looking for a decent bike for fitness purposes. Want a comfortable ride that won't tire my arms and back.
> 
> *Option 1: BMC SLX01 105 5700* for $1699 + tax
> ...


Get whichever one is not flat black. Nothing else matters if your bike is butt ugly.


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## Ritalalala (Apr 12, 2018)

I will choose the most cost-effective bike, I think full carbon is the best


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

Ritalalala said:


> I will choose the most cost-effective bike, *I think full carbon is the bes*t


Could you please elaborate on why you think this?


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## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

Thread dredge time. So I'm poking around RBR and I keep seeing this Jenson ad pop up that reminds me of this thread I posted to. Install front wheel and pedals and you're riding in three minutes. Unbelievable. That's real progress from Canyon's 10 minute exercise.

Three minutes? Don't have to install seat or check fore/aft adjustment? The bike ships with stem on steer tube and handlebars perpendicular to the frame and all cables hooked up and properly tensioned? Would you ride one of their bikes three minutes out of the box, or even ten minutes?


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

ogre said:


> Thread dredge time. So I'm poking around RBR and I keep seeing this Jenson ad pop up that reminds me of this thread I posted to. Install front wheel and pedals and you're riding in three minutes. Unbelievable. That's real progress from Canyon's 10 minute exercise.
> 
> Three minutes? Don't have to install seat or check fore/aft adjustment? The bike ships with stem on steer tube and handlebars perpendicular to the frame and all cables hooked up and properly tensioned? Would you ride one of their bikes three minutes out of the box, or even ten minutes?
> 
> View attachment 324829


This is why it's good to have a pop-up blocker.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

ogre said:


> Thread dredge time. So I'm poking around RBR and I keep seeing this Jenson ad pop up that reminds me of this thread I posted to. Install front wheel and pedals and you're riding in three minutes. Unbelievable. That's real progress from Canyon's 10 minute exercise.
> 
> Three minutes? Don't have to install seat or check fore/aft adjustment? The bike ships with stem on steer tube and handlebars perpendicular to the frame and all cables hooked up and properly tensioned? Would you ride one of their bikes three minutes out of the box, or even ten minutes?
> 
> View attachment 324829


Well, to be honest, it would be possible for an experienced pro to put the bike in the stand, air up the tires, attach the front wheel, attach the pedals, Straighten the handlebars, "adjust" the headset on assembly, spin the gears and tweak if necessary, spin the wheels, press the brake levers, and check pad clearances--in 3 minutes. 

Taking it out of the box and removing all the packing material takes another couple of minutes. Adjusting saddle height and setback could take another couple of minutes, so yeah, more like 10 minutes easily.  We did it more typically in 20-30 minutes, provided the drive trains were already tuned up and ready to go, which is now common.


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