# $4000- What would you buy?



## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

I have a little over $4000 dollars to spend on a new road bike and with all of the choices in this price range I am having a hard time choosing a bike. The Tarmac Pro SL and Madone 5.9 look like really good values especially considering that I can get really good team discounts on either. I can also get a great deal on any Felt or BH bike.

I will primarily be using this bike for group rides and as a training tool for XC racing but I am entertaining the idea of including a couple of road races each year so I want to get a bike that is more geared towards racing than touring.

If you had $4000-$4500 in hand for a bike what would you buy?


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

This:
http://wilier-usa.com/#/road/izoard/

Plus maybe a set of wheels if $$ allowed.

I'm definitely biased, but I'd buy this frame again. If I ate it tomorrow and cracked the frame I wouldn't even shop around; no contest in my mind.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

whatever you get, don't race a 4k bike in a crit...


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

Cervelo R3 - Ultegra


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

Is that a lot of money to you or just chump change? If it's a lot I'd either scale back and get something like a CAAD9 or scrap the racing idea.


Anyway, for that type of money I'd take a different approach. Instead of picking a bike then getting the best size for that model. I'd research some fitters, go to a good one, then based on their recommended geo (assuming you agree) narrow it down to 4 or 5 frames that are a perfect fit for you, then choose. 

That approached worked pretty well for me anyway. I did a ton of research and it turned out the bike I most wanted (Look 585) wasnt' quite right for my body. It would have worked pretty much fine....it just wasn't perfect. And the place that gave me the fit actually sold 585's so I'm pretty confident it wasn't a sales motivated fit.


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## j-man (Sep 3, 2009)

im biased for specialized so i say go for the tamac


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## MCF (Oct 12, 2006)

A Cervelo, but I am biased.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

A $2000 bike and save the rest.

Seriously, there's not a whole lot of performance difference between a $2000 bike and a $4000 bike. Especially if you are just going on fast group rides and using it as a training tool for something else. If you can't win on a $2000 bike, you aren't going to win on a bike that costs twice as much. 

Get the lightest 105 equipped bike that fits you and save the rest for something important.


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## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

CougarTrek said:


> This:
> http://wilier-usa.com/#/road/izoard/
> 
> Plus maybe a set of wheels if $$ allowed.
> ...


I really like the looks of Wilier's line of bikes. Especially the Imperielle. So much so that I would likely settle for Sram Force over Red just to fit that frame into my budget.


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

flat ark said:


> I really like the looks of Wilier's line of bikes. Especially the Imperielle. So much so that I would likely settle for Sram Force over Red just to fit that frame into my budget.



I've seen the Imperielle in person, stunning bike. Good thing my shop hasn't ordered one in my size!


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## desmond88 (Feb 19, 2010)

CougarTrek said:


> This:
> https://wilier-usa.com/#/road/izoard/
> 
> Plus maybe a set of wheels if $$ allowed.
> ...


 first time hearing wilier bikes, the bikes on the site looks kinda cool, some look trendy, some look weird, i even saw one with "Editor's Finalist Choice". haha


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## dougrocky123 (Apr 12, 2006)

*Tarmac Pro Red Compact*

This is the bike I've been waiting to spend 4k on. The only problem is they seem to be sold out in my size until next model year.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

If I had $4k for a bike I'd buy a custom frame. I'd be talking to either Indy Fab or Carl Strong.


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## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

$4000 definitely isn't chump change for me but I'm not going to miss a meal over it either.

Tarmac - (I had one a couple of years back) I think is an excellent bike and the Sram Red Pro model is really well equipped when comparing it to a lot of "boutique" brands in a comparable price range. The fact that I have owned one before is the ONLY thing that would keep me from buying another one. Not that I found any fault with the bike but would just like to entertain the idea of riding something different.

Cervelo - Great bikes but there are a lot of them around here.

Madone - Another excellent value but I just find them to be aesthetically boring for some reason BUT I think that they do ride super and the geometry feels really good to me.

BMC Race Master SLX 01 - Now that is a frame that aesthetically REALLY does it for me. I've owned a BMC in the past and I know that the geometry/ETT is spot on for me.


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## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

laffeaux said:


> If I had $4k for a bike I'd buy a custom frame. I'd be talking to either Indy Fab or Carl Strong.


I hear you there but I really want to stick with carbon.


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

desmond88 said:


> first time hearing wilier bikes, the bikes on the site looks kinda cool, some look trendy, some look weird, i even saw one with "Editor's Finalist Choice". haha


I think you might want to read a little about Wilier before you judge them based on glancing at pictures on their website and the fact that YOU have just heard of them (they were just recently re-introduced to the American market). Far cry from a fly by night "trendy" bike company.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

laffeaux said:



> If I had $4k for a bike I'd buy a custom frame. I'd be talking to either Indy Fab or Carl Strong.


This would be my suggestion as well...especially if you have any issues with fitting, or want the bike to ride or handle a specific way.

Carbon is nice and all...but you can get the same ride or better out of steel, aluminum or titanium. A custom frame is something you will keep for a long, long time compared to an off the shelf (though nice) frame.


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## JoelS (Aug 25, 2008)

I'd go with a custom Ti frame. Got enough parts here to build it up.

If you must go carbon, I'd get an inexpensive frame (Velo Vie, PedalForce, etc.) and mid/upper components (Campy Chorus), and really nice handbuilt wheels. But if you want to race it, I'd even more encourage you to keep the price down on the frame. You'll crash and one of these crashes will break your frame. Do you want to have to replace an expensive frame? I don't.


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## Amfoto1 (Feb 16, 2010)

Personally I'd get a Look 585 as an all arounder or 586 as a climbing bike... But I wouldn't necessarily recommend either one for you.

You _really_ need to go to a good shop, check out a variety of bikes and get fitted to whatever works best for you. It might be a custom build, or it might be available right off the floor. We're all different and what fits one person well won't necessarily fit another person well. Heck, if there wasn't so much variation in riders, all bikes would be built with the exact same geometry, would only vary for different purposes.

With $4000-4500 you could get either the front half or the back half of a Pinarello. Very cool bike on the bleeding edge of carbon design, but they do sometimes break in half.


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## joep721 (May 4, 2009)

I was in the same boat. I had a 4K budget and wasn't sure what to get, here is my short list:

1. Scott R2 - light and fun to ride
2. Orbea Opal with Ultegra - great ride
3. Pinnarello FP3 - I was in awe of the bike, rode well
4. Specialized Tarmac Pro - I fell in love with the SL3 and knew that was out of my range.
5. Willier Imperiale - didn't test it

What I ended up buying was an Orbea Orca with ultegra that was on sale and was within my budget.


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## filly (Feb 6, 2003)

JoelS said:


> I'd go with a custom Ti frame. Got enough parts here to build it up.
> 
> If you must go carbon, I'd get an inexpensive frame (Velo Vie, PedalForce, etc.) and mid/upper components (Campy Chorus), and really nice handbuilt wheels. But if you want to race it, I'd even more encourage you to keep the price down on the frame. You'll crash and one of these crashes will break your frame. Do you want to have to replace an expensive frame? I don't.


this is exactly what i did: PF ZX3, 2010 Force, and DA/OP 32h wheelset.


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## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

filly said:


> this is exactly what i did: PF ZX3, 2010 Force, and DA/OP 32h wheelset.


Yeah, I've considered that. How much $$$ did your build come out to?


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## icsloppl (Aug 25, 2009)

flat ark said:


> If you had $4000-$4500 in hand for a bike what would you buy?


http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/tcr.advanced.1/3885/36660/

Compares favorably with my zilli-buck C-50.


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## kykr13 (Apr 12, 2008)

buck-50 said:


> A $2000 bike and save the rest.


I'm thinking this. If I were to spend four grand on a bike I'd know exactly what I'd want so it would be the other way around - I'd be trying to justify spending that money.


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## herbn (Aug 22, 2009)

most people should spend more so they miss some meals but i'm partial to giants also,an aluminum framed ultegra bike maybe.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

too late but this http://www.strongframes.com/frames_&_pricing/proshop/


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## herbn (Aug 22, 2009)

just looked through the giant line they don't even make what i suggested , better parts/cheap frame, i guess i don't understand the market. Seems like most of the time a crash would wreck the frame and good durable components could swap over from one frame to the next.


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## milkbaby (Aug 14, 2009)

Because it looks cool:
BMC Racemaster + Ultegra + Mavic Ksyrium Elite or SL wheels

Because I want titanium:
Lynskey Cooper (painted) + Ultegra + whatever wheels the leftover money can buy


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

flat ark said:


> I have a little over $4000 dollars to spend on a new road bike and with all of the choices in this price range I am having a hard time choosing a bike. The Tarmac Pro SL and Madone 5.9 look like really good values especially considering that I can get really good team discounts on either. I can also get a great deal on any Felt or BH bike.
> 
> I will primarily be using this bike for group rides and as a training tool for XC racing but I am entertaining the idea of including a couple of road races each year so I want to get a bike that is more geared towards racing than touring.
> 
> If you had $4000-$4500 in hand for a bike what would you buy?



This frame(http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/TIMADSPQ) and build it with Ultegra, if a Large fits you.


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## JoelS (Aug 25, 2008)

flat ark said:


> Yeah, I've considered that. How much $$$ did your build come out to?


Used PF RS frame/fork. Chorus 11. Misc parts (headset, seatpost, saddle, pedals, stem, bars, tires, tubes, bottle cages, etc.) Had wheels already. About $2000. If I needed wheels, closer to $3000.


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## maximum7 (Apr 24, 2008)

This is actually really good advice...


> You really need to go to a good shop, check out a variety of bikes and get fitted to whatever works best for you. It might be a custom build, or it might be available right off the floor. We're all different and what fits one person well won't necessarily fit another person well.


Have you ridden those two bikes you are looking at? Why are you limiting your self to just Trek and Specialized? Do you think that because everybody else ride one, they are a good bike? I'm not saying they aren't, but if you haven't ridden one, how do you know they are good to you? What about the Felt or BH? Go ride those. 

If you're truly going to race, if you crash it, can you afford to replace it? 

We can all list our favorites, but that doesn't mean they should be yours. 
Go ride every bike you can get your hands on, and in the end of you don't end up with a Look 585, you know you've made the wrong decision.


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## strathconaman (Jul 3, 2003)

flat ark said:


> BMC Race Master SLX 01 - Now that is a frame that aesthetically REALLY does it for me. I've owned a BMC in the past and I know that the geometry/ETT is spot on for me.


You have your answer. Fit is more important than frame material.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

flat ark said:


> I have a little over $4000 dollars to spend on a new road bike and with all of the choices in this price range I am having a hard time choosing a bike. The Tarmac Pro SL and Madone 5.9 look like really good values especially considering that I can get really good team discounts on either. I can also get a great deal on any Felt or BH bike.
> 
> I will primarily be using this bike for group rides and as a training tool for XC racing but I am entertaining the idea of including a couple of road races each year so I want to get a bike that is more geared towards racing than touring.
> 
> If you had $4000-$4500 in hand for a bike what would you buy?


Titanium frame (it's pretty much crash proof and doesn't look bad when scratched, maybe Lynskey) with a conventional straight top tube, Campagnolo Chorus brifters/brakes/derailleurs, 46/34 x 12-25 11 speed gearing, late C-record aero seat post (attractive with a one-bolt clamp that'll park the seat at any angle), some moderately deep V-rim with machined braking surfaces laced with 32 spokes cross-three to NOS Record hubs (shiny silver in an attractive hub shape as made before 2000) probably with DT Revolutions except for 14/15 double butted on the rear drive side, NOS Selle Italia Turbomatic saddle (most comfortable saddle ever), who knows on the bars (I've gotten too old for the Cinelli 66 I used to like) and fork.

No black aluminum parts, only silver which still looks fine once scratched (no point in having a nice bike you don't ride).

There's no reason to spend that much money and not get _exactly_ what you want down to the handle tape.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

Supersix 2 (Red/Force mix) or a Madone.


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## Amfoto1 (Feb 16, 2010)

maximum7 said:


> Go ride every bike you can get your hands on, and in the end if you don't end up with a Look 585, you know you've made the wrong decision.


Nothing like a good dose of completely unbiased advice!


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## rideorglide (Dec 3, 2005)

A Pegoretti frame and fork, I love that guy's work. And I'd sling on it the Campy Chorus/Centaur mix of parts from my current ride.


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## Infini (Apr 21, 2003)

If you like SRAM, get this:

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=PRODUCT&PRODUCT.ID=6949


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## flat ark (Feb 3, 2007)

Infini said:


> If you like SRAM, get this:
> 
> http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=PRODUCT&PRODUCT.ID=6949


I would definitely go for one of those builds BUT I believe they are sold out of my size.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

What are you riding now and what does it not do for you to motivate a new bike? What type of position...aggressive road, relaxed, upright...


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## DM.Aelis (Jun 19, 2007)

*just to add $.02*

because it's always fun thinking of spending $4000 when you're a student : )

1) If you are serious about training, forget the high zoot wheels or bling and budget out a power meter first. I wish I had done this in the beginning, I've been riding for a few years and now am making that leap.

USED wired SRM on eBay: ~$1100

2) You've got $3000 to go. A full Campy Chorus 11 group can be had from any of the UK retailers (Ribble I think is best?) for a hair over $1000. Let's call it $1100, but you can sell those cranks.

Group plus SRM you're looking at about $2000 spent, and you've got a whole $2000 to get a frame and wheels.

3) Great handbuilts can be purchased for <$1000, from any number of frame builders. If you want them to be hawt, well, consider something like Revolution Wheelworks with their gorgeous 50mm carbon tubulars and similar high performance offerings on the cheap. Personally, I'd pick up a pair of campy record/open pros that are laced dependably, used or not. You can get that for <$400 easily.

4) With $1400 to get a frame, you could pick up everything from full custom steel from a less prestigious builder (best option IMO) to getting some nice pedal force or mainstream brand carbon, if you shop around. My personal opinion? A buddy just picked up a Giant TCR Advanced, and not only is it a beautiful bike (if you're into the pro/sponsor graphic look) but he can't stop raving about it as a bike for going fast and long. You could easily pick up a new or "bought but unused" one of these for $1000 leaving you a chunk of change for accessories/components/bling and the like.

IMO, that's the best way to do it hands down, if you want to spend $4000.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

If you liked the fit of a Madone, a Project One 5 series with Sram Force.


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## skyphix (Jul 26, 2007)

I'd look at the Calfee Luna frame if I were to be looking at Carbon only. 

Realistically, for me, I'd probably build something like a Lynskey Cooper.


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## merlinluvr (Feb 6, 2010)

Some new guy in our Saturday ride just destroyed his Project 1....mabye 6 weeks old. Went down in a turn and hit the curb....top tube severed in two pieces. We were doing maybe 15 mph. 

I'm a ti geek. Have a Merlin Agilis, have had 3 other Litespeeds......just bought a Lynskey Level 4. Rode one for a few weeks and it's the nicest riding ti frame I have ever been on. I have had 2 Madones and cracked 'em both. Trek is awesome at warranty, but I don't need the hassle. I took the 3rd frame and never built it up....sold it and bought the Agilis.

Get what you want, but remember there ain't much forgiveness with carbon in crashes. I have heard of some good carbon repair work done by Calfee, but don't know of anyone personally.....just 'heard' and read. 

A cold worked alloy gives you a lot of bang for the buck in that sense. I bent a seat and chain stay out of alignment a bit on my first Ultimate in a crit crash.....fork completely exploded. Mark Lynskey had it back to me in a week and I built it back up and it rode like a factory new bike. Okay, that is it for my ti advertising campaign. 

Another thing to consider is that you don't need to buy new titanium unless you just want to. There are insane deals on older ti frames right now as carbon is the hot topic and has been for some time.


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## bike_guy (Mar 26, 2002)

Custom and still have money left over


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## WhyRun (Dec 29, 2008)

This is well thought out. Could go Ultegra off one of those websites i think Ribble as well, and pay less than $1k for the group too. Plenty of great custom wheels for less than $600 a set, which leaves plenty for a good frame, especially a close out.

The BMC - Comp.Cyclist deal is great, a buddy just got one, thats too bad if they are out of your size.


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## Starter (Jan 7, 2009)

Without question, 4k will buy you a TON more bike if you build from the frame up, taking care to bargain hunt. Take a look at the bike in my gallery (click the thumbnail, it'll show up) Lynskey ti, full Record 11, Shamal Ultras, high-end finishing kit... And that bike set me back less than 4k. In a shop they'd easily ask $6000 or more for it...


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## gh1 (Jun 7, 2008)

Two chicks at the same time....


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## maximum7 (Apr 24, 2008)

> Two chicks at the same time....


You've had to pay for that?


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## gh1 (Jun 7, 2008)

maximum7 said:


> You've have to pay for that?


 Depends on the chicks but I was really just going for the Office Space movie quote where that was the answer to what he would do with a million bucks.


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## MarshallH1987 (Jun 17, 2009)

DM.Aelis said:


> because it's always fun thinking of spending $4000 when you're a student : )
> 
> 1) If you are serious about training, forget the high zoot wheels or bling and budget out a power meter first. I wish I had done this in the beginning, I've been riding for a few years and now am making that leap.
> 
> ...


i like this idea. an SRM would be probably the best thing you could ever do for training. I know a lot of guy who race very well in P/1/2 cat using some of the lesser known carbon frame companies.


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## Dereck (Jan 31, 2005)

Go with a good idea above - figure out a frame that suits your geometry needs, then put together the parts to your preferences, not some 'suit' at headquarters who outfits bike with whatever he can get cheaper on bulk purchase rates.

Possible disclaimer- My last 'bike in a box' was a Trek Madone and it was a miserable bad purchase. Didn't like the Bontrager bars - could only get one area of them comfortable at a time - and you don't want to know about the Bontrager saddle's effects on my anatomy... The first frame cracked on the headtube, the second had this disturbing habit of shimmying at speed - and I don't go all that fast these days. The other big mistake was not test riding the SRAM for long enough. Fortunately, I ebay'd the lot for less than the Shimano DA I bought off Ebay to replace it with.

End of my buying ready-made bikes. Won't be that dumb again.

You're going to pull some good tricks on this bike - get it right, research much and spend later. Put the most into good bearings, wheels and tyres - if there's anything on a bike that better employs your power output, let me know, please. 

I must differ with the above about power meters. If you're so good that one will really make a difference, someone will arrange for your bikes to magically acquire them - probably the same person who gives you the bikes  Put the money and effort into getting your bike right for you.

Have fun

Dereck
Gunnar Sport for noodlin' around with Wifey and a custom lugged 853 Bob Jackson for what I laughingly call 'serious riding' these days. It's a lot slower than my 1973 Bob Jackson - their building must have slipped


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## masfish1967 (Mar 3, 2010)

*eBay is the eWay*

I just had the same $4000 budget and decided to buy my bike part by part through eBay. I spent a total of $3900 with cost and shipping charges and got nearly $100 ebucks back out of the process. I did internet searching to find the frame with the best fitting gemotry for my size and then began my search for the right deal on ebay. I set up a couple of saved searches for the frame , wheelset and gruppo to monitor prices and watch for a deal. At the same time I searched ebay for the other parts like stem/bars, seat/seatpost and peddles. I ended up spending $1400 for the frame ( 09 new Specialized S-works Tarmac SL2), $1500 for the gruppo (new 7900 DA), $400 for the wheelset (new from REI for the no question return policy Easton EA70) and then $600 for FSA K Force Wing Bars, K Force Stem, K Force Seatpost, DA peddles and Selle SMP Seat. Retail would have been in the $7500 - $8000 range.:thumbsup:


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## maximum7 (Apr 24, 2008)

So all this stuff you bought on Ebay will be covered under the manufactures warranty is something goes bad?


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## rideorglide (Dec 3, 2005)

on second thought ... if I didn't go the Pegoretti route with the hypothetical $4,000 in spare cash, after donating a chunk to Oxfam of course, I'd purchase a 

https://www.dirtragmag.com/blogarific/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Nomad2c_Profile_BlackGold.jpg

And put the frame and fork in the middle of the room with the remaining few components I could afford and look at it, cos it would probably only be partially built.

The old MTB is getting long in the tooth and needs a rebuild...the carbon Nomad would be niiiiiice


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## Yeti guy (Feb 16, 2010)

Orbea Onix with Ultegra SL gruppo and save the $2000 left over. I recently bought the 2009 model for $2000 and couldn't be happier, lotta bike for the money.


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## carbonconvert (Apr 12, 2009)

For 4k based on personal experience, the Giant TCR Adv 1 seemed to be the best value.
Wherever you buy the bike, you're not gonna pay the list price-4k maybe around 36-38. For that you get a 15 lb bike with all the latest design features. Shaped tubes, tapered headset, wider bb, sram force group, ksyrium wheelset. All the bike mags and websites gave it a top rating. It blows away any other bike in the price range. With the money left over, you can size your bar and stem and maybe a saddle if you don't like the fizik airione. I would also suggest 25mm tires which cushion the ride even more. The tarmac, trek and cervelo simply can't touch it.


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## Loraura (Jun 30, 2008)

buck-50 said:


> A $2000 bike and save the rest.
> 
> Seriously, there's not a whole lot of performance difference between a $2000 bike and a $4000 bike. Especially if you are just going on fast group rides and using it as a training tool for something else. If you can't win on a $2000 bike, you aren't going to win on a bike that costs twice as much.
> 
> Get the lightest 105 equipped bike that fits you and save the rest for something important.



I agree.

I've ridden 2K and 4K bikes, and I can't say there is 2K worth of extra enjoyment, comfort, speed, or joy in the 4K bike. I ride because I love it. I didn't love it more on a 2K bike.


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## rick j. (May 29, 2006)

*Surprised there isn't more love for this beauty...*

Venerable, beloved company, old-school steel. Great pedigree. Drop dead gorgeous.

DeRosa Neo Primato. This bike is on my short list.


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## DM.Aelis (Jun 19, 2007)

*Oh, there is plenty of love.*



rick j. said:


> Venerable, beloved company, old-school steel. Great pedigree. Drop dead gorgeous.
> 
> DeRosa Neo Primato. This bike is on my short list.


Just not plenty of money in my pockets!  

Someday I'll have a De Rosa.


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## vandalbob (Dec 13, 2001)

*Hmmm, so many options*

I'll echo the custom build suggestions made earlier. Personally, I'd go for an Indy Fab. Good luck on your decision.


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## labmonkey526 (Aug 9, 2009)

This is worthless without your fit measurements and your riding style preferences.

Get a touring bike! Get a racing bike! Get a custom-made whosit-whatsit! To the OP goto competetive cyclist and Wrench Science and use the fit calculator (enter flames on fit calculators) and come back with that info and what kind of riding style you are used to. How long are your group rides (10mi or 100mi)? what kind of racing crits, TT, etc...?

You are saying to yourself right now- I want, no, I NEED to be on a racing bike like my friend's have. I want to be PRO and go zero rise/zero spacers. 53x11 all the way. what your body will say is (and I'm just guessing here) WTF were you thinking?

Am I a hypocrite, damn straight-- I ride a Wilier Izoard on SR11 and the best custom Alchemy/Edge 66 clinchers this side of the Mississippi. But I'm not you (beautiful frame ride FYI) and I like being a hypocrite poseur.

Finally, I'd say know your body regardless of what the fit calc or anyone else says, do you have a long torso and short legs or the other way around? I can tell you all day to get a Wilier but they have shorter top tubes and somewhat longer head tubes relatively speaking which is why the ride is so nice for me. I friggin' hate long cockpits, twitchiness be damned I'd rather ride a twitchy bike than stretch my fat arse out over a long cockpit any day and twice on sunday. But if you are a gorilla you are going to most likely feel cramped. Go west young man and come back with some info.


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## elviento (Mar 24, 2002)

Interesting how everyone seems to consider a $4K bike a very expensive bike. I think the truth is, $4K today is a moderately high end bike. The standard expensive bike should be more like $10K-15K.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

elviento said:


> Interesting how everyone seems to consider a $4K bike a very expensive bike. I think the truth is, $4K today is a moderately high end bike. The standard expensive bike should be more like $10K-15K.


Sorry, 4k is a lot of money.

And for a non-sponsored non-racer, the differences between a 2k bike and a 4k bike are negligible- paint them both flat black and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

And the difference between a 4k bike and a 10k bike are even smaller. 

Sure, you've got bling-ier parts and a pair of 5k wheels, but someone who's just getting a bike to train on for XC racing doesn't need a bike like that. Honestly, no one who has to pay for their own bike NEEDS a 10k bike.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*4 grand*

custom. get something built for you that rides like an extension of you and doesn't look like every other bike on the road


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## jmess (Aug 24, 2006)

Just got this offer from Orbea.

"2010 Opal Spring Specials for Men and Women

For a limited time Orbea is offering three sweet deals on one of the best bikes in the pro peloton. 

We've heard repeatedly from consumers the need for a sub $4,000 Dura Ace bike to help in the tough economy and now we have answered the call.

Don't need a complete bike, then the second offer is for you. We have a special price on the 2010 carbon Opal frameset $1699 which is $500 off the normal advertised retail."
Mens:
Group = DA 7900
Crank = 7900 (compact or standard)
Bars = Orbea Cat II
Stem = Orbea Alu
Post = Kalloy Carbon
Saddle = Selle Italia SLK
Wheels = Shimano RS20


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## prs77 (Dec 13, 2004)

*Bang for Buck*

maestro-uk.com. Mike will set you up with a great Colnago or Time, complete with Campy components. Enjoy!


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## labmonkey526 (Aug 9, 2009)

hey flat ark what did you decide?


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## tuffguy1500 (Jul 17, 2008)

Ive been drinkin.. didnt read anything about op's post, but if.n i had $4k to spend on a bike, it'd be a TT/Tri bike.. i has mtn, road, commuter, and ugh.. but I dont have a tt bike for tri's'.. and i have yet to compete in my first one.. 

+1 poast!! 
/rbr ftw


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## danielc (Oct 24, 2002)

When I was shopping for a bike, here are what you can get for $4K:
Cervelo R3 w/ Ultegra Fulcrum 7s. 16.6 lbs in a 58cm
Pinarello FP3 with Athena Most wheels 18 lbs

or custom build an Orbea Orca on their site with cheaper wheels to get it close to $4k.


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## 2ndGen (Oct 10, 2008)

I've found that no matter what's available at this price range, 
almost every bike will need new wheels, saddle and personalization parts 
(tape, tires, pedals, possibly bar/stem, etc...).

I'd buy at $1K and NOT spend too much on it (just what it needed). 
I'd buy at $3K for a bike that needed no more than $1K to be perfect for me. 
Or, I'd buy at $4K if it was an uber frame (ala' Madone 6.X Series) with a great 
groupset and the rest I'd upgrade/customize for a super-fit perfect-for-me bike. 

No matter what, the way I ride, I NEED Ultegra+ components. 
I NEED a personalized cockpit and I NEED a great wheelset. 
I NEED certain tires that don't come stock on most bikes I could afford.
Everybody needs pedals period.


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## Bridgey (Mar 26, 2003)

I was in this position 1 week ago, but only had $3000. I went for a Pedal Force CG1 with SRAM Force. You could add some awesome wheels to this and have a 6.5kg bike. The CG1 sell for over $2000 rebadged under other companies. $790 to $890 at Pedal Force.


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## Tommy Walker (Aug 14, 2009)

Cervelo RS


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## mjdwyer23 (Mar 18, 2009)

a PF RS2 and a 29er. Oh wait, I just did that, and I have $1k left over.


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