# Will changing cassette require adjustment?



## mbnakron88 (Feb 12, 2009)

I was thinking about having 2 wheel sets with different cassettes. An aero set with a 11-23 cassette and a climbing wheel with a 12-26 cassette. I would like to know if I will have to make adjustments to the rear derailleur everytime I switch? If so, is this an easy adjustment one can do or will it require a trip to the shop?


----------



## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

mbnakron88 said:


> I was thinking about having 2 wheel sets with different cassettes. An aero set with a 11-23 cassette and a climbing wheel with a 12-26 cassette. I would like to know if I will have to make adjustments to the rear derailleur everytime I switch? If so, is this an easy adjustment one can do or will it require a trip to the shop?


This is one of those 'it depends' things, but generally, the answer is no. As long as you have a chain long enough for the 26 and short enough for the 11, you'll be fine.


----------



## kbiker3111 (Nov 7, 2006)

The short answer is no. The long answer is no, as long as the cassettes and wheels are identically spaced. If they're not, you'll need to adjust your rear derailleur cable tension, which is easy to do yourself.


----------



## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

Since the aero and climbing wheel will be different, you will likely have to do an adjustment. Typically it is just a twist of the barrel adjuster where the cable enters the derailleur. This is something you should be able to do yourself. It is simple trial and error. You will l learn pretty quickly how it is done.

If you don't have a repair stand just make a noose in a rope, toss it over a truss or garage door track in your garage or an appropriate tree limb and hang your bike by the front of the saddle. That way you can spin your crank while you adjust the R. D.

Check out the "Tips for new riders" under the beginner section for other useful tidbits.


----------



## mbnakron88 (Feb 12, 2009)

Thanks for the quick feedback! I will be using Ultegra 6600 10 spd cassettes with Ultegra 6600 chain. I'll think through trial n error, that it won't be that bad.


----------



## ukbloke (Sep 1, 2007)

I had a pair of wheelsets that I used interchangeably where this was a problem. One wheelset was DuraAce/OpenPro, and the other was Ritchey WCS Protocol. The RD adjustment was specifically because of the Ritchey wheel, and I ended up using a second 1mm spacer behind the cassette to cure it. The Ritchey wheel was also about 2mm out of dish which required an annoying adjustment to the brakes too. I ended up rebuilding the wheel to fix the dish to solve that one. After these changes I was able to swap the rear wheels back and forth without adjustment.


----------



## ncvwnut (Oct 15, 2008)

But will the chain be too long for the 11-23? If so is it significant?


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

mbnakron88 said:


> I was thinking about having 2 wheel sets with different cassettes. An aero set with a 11-23 cassette and a climbing wheel with a 12-26 cassette. I would like to know if I will have to make adjustments to the rear derailleur everytime I switch? If so, is this an easy adjustment one can do or will it require a trip to the shop?



One issue you might have is with the chain itself. Many cassette manufacturers emphatically state that a new chain must be used when installing a new cassette. I have two sets of wheels, both with same mfg 26/12 cassettes and don't change the chain when I swap wheels out. But, be aware that there might be small differences in tooth size that may make the chain act weird when shifting after changing wheels. Also, these may not be changes that you can adjust out by a cable tweak.

That said, just go for it. The worst than can happen is that your chain acts weird when shifting or just plain acts weird when cruising in one gear. I think you'll notice any problems really quickly and notice any abnormal wear on your cassettes before it become problematic. Watch it when you go between sizes to make certain that the chain doesn't get too loose or too tight under various shifting configurations. I think the rear DR should be able to handle these two cassette sizes without changing the chain length, but best to try it first.

The one thing I do worry about when changing out wheels is the brake pad alignment. I make certain that the pads are centered from a caliper standpoint (so they clamp together on the wheel when the brake is used), centered and tracking properly on the braking surface of the rim, and adjusted with the proper distance away from the rims in their non-active state. 

When I swap wheels, the set I take off gets some maintenance done to it before I put it away:

1) Inspect the tire for any damage (I just did a wheel swap and found a whopper of a slice on the tire - glass or road debris or something - surprising)
2) Look at each spoke, nipple, and attachment point to the rim for cracks
3) Take off the cassette, take it apart, and clean it up really good with degreaser
4) Clean up the wheel, tire, rims - you might take the extra step to take some really fine sandpaper and clean the brake residue off the rim brake surface
5) Make certain everything is dry and put the cassette back on the wheel
6) After the service is done, let the wheel stand out overnight to make certain all is dry
7) Pump up the tire to normal ride pressure (100 to 120 PSI)
8) Put the wheel away in a wheel bag and out of harms way 
9) If you do this your wheel will be ready to go when you want it (you'll just have to pump up the tire)

Hope it helps!


----------



## muscleendurance (Jan 11, 2009)

ncvwnut said:


> But will the chain be too long for the 11-23? If so is it significant?


No it will be fine in my experience


----------



## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> Since the aero and climbing wheel will be different, you will likely have to do an adjustment. Typically it is just a twist of the barrel adjuster where the cable enters the derailleur. This is something you should be able to do yourself. It is simple trial and error. You will l learn pretty quickly how it is done.
> 
> If you don't have a repair stand just make a noose in a rope, toss it over a truss or garage door track in your garage or an appropriate tree limb and hang your bike by the front of the saddle. That way you can spin your crank while you adjust the R. D.
> 
> Check out the "Tips for new riders" under the beginner section for other useful tidbits.



If you don't have a repair stand just make a noose in a rope, toss it over a truss or garage door track in your garage or an appropriate tree limb and hang

woah, for a minute there I thought we going to a david carridine thingie...:blush2: :blush2:


----------



## johnlisa5135 (Sep 15, 2006)

*I have this setup, no problem*

You're on the right track with this idea.

I use a 2008 Cervelo RS w/OEM Shimano RS10 wheelset, holding 12-25 Ultegra cassette. Bought a set of Mavic Kysrium SL, added Ultegra 12-27 cassette. no other changes. Both shift perfectly with no adjustment whatsoever. (The derailleurs are both Dura-Ace 7800, compact front). The Mavic rims are MUCH narrower, requiring brake adjustment, but not shifter. The nearly 1LB weight difference, combined with the 27 tooth cog make climbing effortless. The 50-34 crankset, combined with the 12-27 cassette, give you almost the same range as a triple 53-42-30 with a 12-25. (34/27=1.26:1). (30/25=1.20:1). You can see that it's definitely worth it to go with a compact, save 1/2 LB weight, get better shifts. And by spending about $70 on an Ultegra cassette, you can swap wheels and get going in less than a minute.

The Shimano RS10 is a comfy set of training wheels. The Mavic SL is VERY stiff (and the bladed spokes are loud, too!) and transmit pedal action to forward motion without waste.


----------

