# Anyone know this Basso frame?? The hunt for vintage continues...



## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Okay, my search for vintage continues and I find myself cruising around town hitting garage and estate sales. I did come across this old add for a basso frameset with shimano 600 and dura ace headset. I can only give the link as I'm posting on my phone. Can anyone tell me anything about this... Model, tubing material, ride, worth $350? Spoke to the owner and he doest know much at all. 

www.ksl.com/?nid=678&ad=11149582&cat=409&lpid=

I want vintage and I want to ride it. Will be doing lots of climbing and a couple of centuries in the fall. No racing, but i still want a great steel performer as i ride hard. Will this work for those purposes? 

Also, any suggestions as to upgrades for weight savings etc welcomed.


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

boleiro said:


> Okay, my search for vintage continues and I find myself cruising around town hitting garage and estate sales. I did come across this old add for a basso frameset with shimano 600 and dura ace headset. I can only give the link as I'm posting on my phone. Can anyone tell me anything about this... Model, tubing material, ride, worth $350? Spoke to the owner and he doest know much at all.
> 
> www.ksl.com/?nid=678&ad=11149582&cat=409&lpid=
> 
> ...


It really doesn't matter what they called it at the time but it looks to be made of SL, so I would say it is a mid 80's GAP.......and, yes, it looks to be well worth it if the frame is clean and without dings, dents and rust. The frame would go for at least that much alone.

One way to get a better handle on the year is whether the cable routing goes above or below the bottom bracket. If it is above, then it is an early 80's.......below it would be a later 80's. This would be a nice classic ride if you cleaned it up and a terrific restoration job, if you were so inclined.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks for the info Raymonda. That all sounds great. Thanks for the tip. I will check the cable routing to get an idea of vintage.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Looks like a Gap to me... mid '80s... and a good deal!


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Got it! Paid $300. It is in great condition. Paint is great, fading a little on the forks, and the typical chipping on the chainstay. But, no rust. Full shimano 600 and a cinelli bar and stem. Shifting is smooth, but I'm going to need to remember how to work those downtube shifters. The wheelset is wolber super champion rims laced to maillard hubs. Rides amazing and I'm really surprised at how light it is. Expected way more heft. Need to find a scale. Can't wait to get a real ride with it. Wish it had more chrome... But it's a beautiful bike as is. Maybe I'll strip the fork and shine it up. 

Thanks for the tips, made the purchase psychic pain free.


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

tHNX, but where's the pics?


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

Get us some real pictures. I'm jelous! You got a screaming deal


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

I'll get pics up tomorrow. Debating if I should keep the toe clips on or getting some clip Ins? It's a crazy gear ratio for me, 52/42 and a 14/20 rear.that will kill me in the mountains here in Utah. Easiest is to get a new cassette... 12/28? Never rode a 52/42 front before. Any suggestions on a better cassete for climbing? Would like to keep it simple as I would like to convert to campy in the future. Pics are coming...


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

1. Don't strip the fork. Leave it as is.
2. Pedals are a personal thing, so change them if you want to.
3. It is probably a freewheel, not a cassette... finding one might be tough. You could throw a 39t ring on in place of the 42, and that would be OK.
4. if you're going to convert to Campy, are you thinking of keeping it period correct? If so, start looking for 1st generation C-Record or Chorus or Athena from the mid '80s. I have an '87 Gap w/ first generation Athena, and I like it a lot.
5. Congratulations! (that should have been #1!!)


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

I can deal with leaving the fork alone, but I have to get a more suitable gear ratio going in the back. So index to get a freewheel with a fixed cogset? I'll look around. If I can get that, I'll get a wheel built around a 7 speed hub. So more searching to do. Thanks FRPAX.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

What brand of freewheel is it? Post a good, close up high res pic?

I'm assuming its a 6 speed freewheel.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Here's some pics, best I can do with my old camera. No high res... but I am sure it is a freewheel. The number on the bottom of the BB is 404627. I read in one of these threads that the first digit signified the year of manufacturing? I am a little torn between keeping it classic with all nuovo record or going for some newer campy. I'd like to at the very least get some more gears going... definitely would like to get up to 8 speed (cold setting questions later). For now, I will most likely get a 39t ring and a new freewheel more geared towards climbing. I saw on Sheldon Brown they have shimano 7 speed freewheels. Might grab the 13-28. That should work on the mountains. Would love to get a compact crank going, but can you do that and stay period? Any and all suggestions and tips are welcome. Very excited to get this out for a ride.


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

Well, I am always jelous when someone find a great bike like this for so cheap. The frame seems to be in excellent condition. It is a real beauty. This would go for between $750 and 1000 on a good day over at ebay. 

I would keep it period correct. It looks to be around a 85 or so. This is a great bike to do a restore job.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks raymondo. It's nice to finally be the one he gets that great find. I'll keep it period correct. I don't know the older components and the options within. Any suggestions on getting me to a 7 speed climbing gear ratio within the correct period componentry? If I get one of those threaded 7 speed freewheels (13-28) from sheldon brown, will I need anything else to integrate it on my bike?


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

I would fiqure out the exact year and get period correct Campy Record.....The more I look at the frame, the more I'm thinking it is an early 80's possably 1980-1982. The pump peg is unusual and a sure indication that it is not newer than that, I'm guessing. It looks to be original paint. I've seen one other Basso the same color. Yours is in great shape.

Make it a project and slowly build it back up. BTW, Millard and Regina free wheels work well. Keep it a 6 speed and go with a 13-24 or 14-28 with a 52-42 in front. 52-42 was what was standard back then and through 1990 or so. You could also try a Shimano 6 speed, they still make them today, and it should work. I bet you will be surprised that 6 speeds in the rear works as well as 10, if you don't race. I doubt you bought this ride thinking about racing it.

I had s single speed with a 42-18, which I could take on some of my short not so hilly rides and almost felt that I didn't need any gears at all, until I hit a long steep climb, which I avoided on the SS.

Trust me, you will love it more as a restore project.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Going complete Record will need to be a slow process, was looking at some of the period components on eBay and that stuff is crazy expensive. Like buying 11 speed chorus. But I would plan ti keep it classic. Riding it around today I was loving the down tube shitfers. It's a great feel. Reminds me of my first rides. Your right I'm not going to be racing. But I am planning to do some centuries and would still like a performance above the standard road bike. I will keep it 6 speed first. The freewheels are only 20 bucks on sheldon brown. Never serviced a freewheel. It it simply taking off my current and screwing on the new one?


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## clalor (May 29, 2010)

Beautiful. I saw that listed a week or so earlier. Had it been a little bigger I would have been all over it. Still miss my Basso...

Enjoy!


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

1. WOW! What a beauty!
2. Judging by the panel style logos & the serial #, I'm going with a 1984.
3. To change a freewheel, you need a chain whip and the appropriate tool. Unscrew it and screw another one on. 
4. Chain rings are just chain rings; you can put whatever you want on there as long as the bolt circle diameter (BCD) matches. You can always put the originals back on for period correctness.
5. Classic steel rides REALLY well! Have fun with it!
6. What components are on there?


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Another '84:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedbob/3707342857/


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Post #6 from this thread shows a 1984 also:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=624653


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

I'm comfortable with dating yours as an '84.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

I remember chain whips, been forever. I'll have to go find one. Clalor, I'm assuming you're local? Know any local bike shops that carry vintage parts, or parts that work with vintage, i.e., 6 speed freewheels?


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## clalor (May 29, 2010)

Yep, I'm local, but I can't help you out with a shop recommendation. I'm just getting back into things after 15 or so years.

BTW, if you see a largish green-magenta ("Mexico" paint scheme from early '90s, I believe) Basso around town let me know. It might be my old bike.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

I doubt you'll need a "vintage" tool to remove the freewheel. Do you know what kind it is? Suntour, Shimano, Regina, etc.? Whichever kind it is, I'm sure Park makes the appropriate removal tool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp1u5YKMRFQ


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## zmudshark (Jan 28, 2007)

Nice bike. BTW, you don't need a chain whip, just the proper freewheel tool. Most LBS's should have one.


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

...moved...


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

The question about the freewheels is an old-guy question...

Removing a freewheel requires a removal tool, which looks like a big nut with an opening large enough to slip over the end of the axle.

On the face of the tool that sits against the freewheel there will be some "male" tooling that will mesh with the "female" equivalent on the freewheel. The system varies by maker--some (Regina) are two largish cogs that engage (like a large version of a crank remover), others use a serrated gear-like system not to different from a lock ring on a modern cassette.

Figure out what you have, get the appropriate remover.

The trick to using it make sure it is well seated, then reinsert the QR skewer and tighten it slightly against the outside of the removal tool (this keeps it from jumping out and destroying the tool or the cluster or both). Grab your large crescent wrench and remove (it will always be a RH thread, since the idea is for it to tighten as you ride). As soon as it breaks free, remove the skewer and screw it the rest of the way out.

A final caution--the old systems used to wear in together, so if the chain is very worn, a new cluster may cause the chain to skip on the smaller cogs--if this happens you will need to replace the chain as well. (We used to do both at the same time as a matter of course...)


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks for all the help, I feel pretty good about keeping it period and still getting great perfromance out of it now. Thought I was going to have to go nuts on swaping out parts. All I plan on doing now is swapping out the freewheel. I will replace the chain just to be prudent. Still a deal as I'm sure I can do all this for under 50 bucks or so.


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## gcamp (Jun 28, 2007)

Your Gap looks to be in a little better shape than mine.
Seen Here:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=209162&highlight=Basso

Yours also has the pump peg in the front and the serial numbers are pretty close.

Sure wish mine had the paint that yours has

Enjoy.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

gcamp, that pic makes the paint seem really good for a similar year. I actually could do without that pump peg thing. would rather its not there, seems extraneous for a race frame? but whatever. I'll get some more pics in once I get this thing dialed in for me. Maybe at the San Luis Obisbo Gran Fondo this fall.


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## Basso_Berlin (Jul 15, 2010)

*Basso GAP early 90 late 80*

Hi all,

i just bought a Basso frame and the guy who sold it to me said it would be a basso GAP it definatly has Columbus SL tubs but i`m not sure if it is a gap. It sais Campagnolo on the frame but the headset is an Shimano DA and the crank is an 600. I`ll add a pic) Too bad, it has no fork, so i have no idea how the original fork looked like.
BTW i bought it for about 130 $ 
I Also wrote a mail to bassobikes, but they were not very helpfull. All they said was ;" no such information"!! maybe one of you can help me i want to rebuild it as original as possible

@Clalor: it could be one like you had!


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## clalor (May 29, 2010)

Yep, that's the exact paint scheme of my old Gap. Nice looking frame! If it helps date yours, I bought mine new in the summer of '90 or '91 and they were still using external cable guides along the top tube. I don't recall exactly what the fork on mine looked like, but I believe it was fully chromed with an internally lugged crown (could be wrong on the crown).


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## clalor (May 29, 2010)

Photo (not mine) of an internally lugged Basso crown


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## Basso_Berlin (Jul 15, 2010)

Clalor, thx that helps me a lot, just one more question, can you remember if you campa or Shimano parts on it?


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

Your GAP looks to be missing the internal routing cable guide that goes into that gaping hole on the top tube. 

Nice ride!!!!!


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

raymonda said:


> Your GAP looks to be missing the internal routing cable guide that goes into that gaping hole on the top tube.
> 
> Nice ride!!!!!


I don't think it's a Gap. I'm not too familiar with the other models... I know there's the Loto, but I'm sure this isn't one. It could be a Coral or an Astra, but not really sure.


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## clalor (May 29, 2010)

Basso_Berlin said:


> Clalor, thx that helps me a lot, just one more question, can you remember if you campa or Shimano parts on it?


I bought mine as a frameset and originally most of the components (Shimano 105) were transfered over from my '87 Cannondale. When I sold it about five years later, it was a really odd mix of Shimano 105 (brakes, crank), Shimano Ultegra (BB, hubs), Campagnolo (Super Record headset, Chorus friction down tube shifters, C-Record derailleurs), and Cinelli (XA stem, 66 bars). My goal was to have a full Campy bike when I was done, but my stupidity interrupted that


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Wow those are some pretty looking frames! I rarely visit this section, but thought I'd answer something you were asking about. If you decide to go to 8sp or 10sp, don't bother with cold setting, just spread the stays apart when you insert the wheel, it's easy to do.


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## Nielly (Sep 21, 2009)

Mailard hubs you say? It looks maybe to be a hellicomatic cassette, not a freewheel. A french version of an early cassette. If it is, you'll need the special wrench to get it off but you would need another hellicomatic cassette to replace it with (not so easy). It would be easier to get a complete period correct wheel with a freewheel hub.


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## Basso_Berlin (Jul 15, 2010)

raymonda said:


> Your GAP looks to be missing the internal routing cable guide that goes into that gaping hole on the top tube.
> 
> Nice ride!!!!!


Yeah thats true, and i have no idea where i can find one ;-)


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

Basso_Berlin said:


> Yeah thats true, and i have no idea where i can find one ;-)


If I remember they were bonded in plastic things. Try a custom frame builder, he/she might be able to order you one through their suppliers.


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## Basso_Berlin (Jul 15, 2010)

frpax said:


> I don't think it's a Gap. I'm not too familiar with the other models... I know there's the Loto, but I'm sure this isn't one. It could be a Coral or an Astra, but not really sure.


Well the Coral and Astra had EL Oversized tubes and not SL, the Loto had SLX.
Also matches the "color scheme" to other GAP

BTW: Tubeset specification for Columbus Tubing from circa 1989

EL Oversized: Drawing on the experience with the EL set in the toughest professional competitions, this set features tubes of comparable lightness but with increased diameters for greater rigidity thanks to the use of the exclusive Nivacrom* steel.
Nivacrom® Steel - Weight: 1800 g 

EL: Tube set for time trials over even terrain, climbs and triathlon events.Super-lightweight thanks to the reduced thickness of tubing made from the exclusive Nivacrom" steel with a very high yield point.
Double-butted tubes and oval, butted unicrown fork blades. Nivacrom Steel - Weight: 1670 g

SLX: "Superbutted" tube set specially designed for professional cyclists, featuring five spirals for greater rigidity in the joint area or the bottom bracket.
Double-butted tube ends. Cyclex Steel - Weight: 1966 g

SL: All-purpose, high-performance tube set for road races over even terrain. Double-butted tubes. Cold-rolled fork blades.
Cyclex Steel - Weight: 1925 g

SP: Heavy-duty, high-performance set, especially recommended for large frames. Double-butted tubing. Cold-rolled fork blades.
Cyclex Steel - Weight: 2215 g


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## SJX426 (Oct 6, 2008)

Beautiful bike!
I bought a '83 Colnago last year. Upgraded from 6 to 7spd without a problem. Based on your picks you could too. I purchased the IRD 12-28 freewheel from UniversalCycles.com. I have a 52/40 and it is too much for 52/28 combo, but I try to avoid it at all costs.


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## boleiro (Jun 11, 2010)

yeah, I have been riding it a lot with a spare wheel I had sitting around... a mavic cxp 21 with coda expert hub. I bought an 8spd sram 11-28 cassette. It works great, no cold set, just a little english is needed to get the wheel in. It ships great and the 28t cog is nice while climbing since I have that 42t inner ring. I actually just bought a 39t ring to switch out the 42. I need some help climbing these canyons around here. This bike flys on decents with that 11t cog. Last weekend coming down Mill Creek Canyon we passed three cars. This bike flys. saving up for new parts, but not in a hurry as its a fun ride as is.


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