# vintage bottom bracket/crank incompatibility?



## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

Hey guys. I used to have those old bmx style gold campy cranks on my peugeot conversion that had a french campy bottom bracket pictured here:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3720911385/" title="DSC_0013 by fmradio516, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3462/3720911385_5b84d58258_b.jpg" width="1024" height="681" alt="DSC_0013" /></a>

well since then i bought an reparto corse bianchi track bike that came with its own campy bottom bracket. not sure if its italian or english because its a mid-late 90s frame but it says handmade in italy. its pictured here:

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3910310612/" title="DSC_0005 by fmradio516, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2575/3910310612_4c872a2f7b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="681" alt="DSC_0005" /></a>

So my problem is, when i installed the cranks from the peugeot onto the bianchi's bottom bracket, it felt fine for a while but a few weeks later, i started getting a weird pinging type of noise sometimes. i feel like its coming from the bottom bracket because i sometimes hear it on the left and then other time on the right. i repacked the bottom bracket twice and ive made sure the cranks are on there good and made sure there is no grease on the tapers. is it possible that my cranks arent fitting right on the new spindle? this is driving me crazy!

edit: also, i noticed there was SOME slight play in one of the mks track pedals spindle but sometimes the noise happens even when its on the workstand and the pedals are spinning.


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## BlueMasi1 (Oct 9, 2002)

*Unless the crankarms are worn*

Campy has always used and ISO taper for all their square taper cranks and bottom brackets. I had the same elusive clicking noise and eventually narrowed it down to my cleats.


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## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

hmm maybe i should try replacing pedals then.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

The newer bottom bracket cups are English threading (I could make out "1.37" in the picture).

I had always thought that all Campy cranks and BBs used ISO tapers but there was a post here on RBR a month or two ago that disproved that. They apparently started to use ISO tapers *after* Nuovo/Super Record. Their older stuff was JIS.


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## BlueMasi1 (Oct 9, 2002)

*I find that hard to believe*

Given that the ISO was founded in 1947 and italy is member of that organization. The JIS has always focused on Japanese quality and production.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=181454


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## BlueMasi1 (Oct 9, 2002)

*I stand corrected*

Thank you for the link. However, I would stil doubt that, that is the cause for the clicking.


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## daveloving (Jan 5, 2009)

I bet it's the pedals.


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## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

ugh i replaced the pedals and that wasn't it. this makes me wish i didnt buy a nice bike that id care about so much.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

I never said that it was the cause of the clicking, just pointing out that the BB cups are English threaded and that they used JIS tapers on the older stuff. I'm not sure why it is clicking.

Some things to check: fixed cup is tight; adjustable cup lockring is tight; no lateral nor vertical play in the axle; all chainring bolts are tight; chain line is correct; rear wheel bolted on tight. You might want to try new ball bearings and maybe try all loose bearings (no cages).


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## BlueMasi1 (Oct 9, 2002)

*Agree with Squidward*

Check to make sure everything is tight: Cups, crank and chainring bolts, pedals and front derailleur. I would also try and make sure they were torqued to the proper specs as well.


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## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

how would i be certain that the chain line is correct??


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html#chainline

Sheldon Brown to the rescue, again!


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## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

dang. i dont know what any of that means.one thing i do notice is that when i put the wheel all the way back in the dropouts and tension the chain right, i look to make sure the wheel is center by looking in between the 2 chainstays. when i do that, i look at the brake bridge and the wheel is slightly off to the right. im going to try riding with a different wheel for a day and see if that does anything,


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

It sounds to me like your rear wheel is not dished correctly. Centering the wheel in the chainstays tells you nothing since you can have it askew in the dropouts but the relation of the wheel to the brake bridge is not adjustable. If you mount the rear wheel backwards does the rim now sit closer to the other seat stay? If so then the dish is not correct. If it sits the same then it is fine but there is an alignment issue with the frame.

Measuring the chain line: carefully measure the distance between the side of the downtube and the middle of the chain ring you are using. Measure the diameter of the downtube then divide that by two. Add the results together and that is your front chain line measurement. On the rear measure the dropout width with the wheel in place and divide that by two. Measure the distance from the drive-side dropout to the center of the cog and subtract that from the number you got from dividing the dropout width by two and that is your rear chain line. If both numbers are exactly the same then you have a perfect chain line. If it is not then the larger the difference you end up with the further your chain line is off.


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## fmradio516 (Apr 8, 2009)

hey so i havent checked the chainline or anything yet but i swapped out the rear wheel and ive been riding on it for the past 2 days and the problem is solved! so it has something to do with my rear track wheel.


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