# Ultegra 6800 - adjusting Front Derailleur



## Gigi (Mar 30, 2014)

Hi there, I need some help.
I had a Pinarello Rohk w/ultegra 6800 2014. The group works fine.
the problem, I cant eliminate the noise (and the friction) in the Front Derailleur when I use the big chain-ring with the big cog, and the one that follows.
Ultegra has a couple of adjustments I've tried, number one front derailleur position. I put parallel to the big chain ring, number 2 the cable, I discover that this is vital to position the FD and the limits has to be set in both, upper and lower, and 3rd the 2 bolts that set the inner and outer limits. I cant' make the friction disappear it makes me crazy especially because I know the FD wont last.
Any link /suggestion where I can see what I need to do in order to adjust the FD?

Thanks,.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Why are you using the big ring and cog? Crossing the chain is bad practice.


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## Gigi (Mar 30, 2014)

I don't use more than the big chain ring and then I move gears through the cassette, when I stop I need to that combination in order to re start. I hope I'm using the right words...


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## kbiker3111 (Nov 7, 2006)

Gigi said:


> I don't use more than the big chain ring and then I move gears through the cassette, when I stop I need to that combination in order to re start. I hope I'm using the right words...


You're using the right words, MMs is being a little pedantic. 

In my experience, I get the best performance by walking through the setup instructions step by step. You should be able to find the FD6800 dealer manual here.
SHIMANO Dealer's Manual / User's Manual


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## Gigi (Mar 30, 2014)

Thanks!


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

All modern drivetrains should be useable in the big/big combination. @MMsRepBike is being a little old school w/ his advice. 

As for your problem, if the limit screws are set properly so your derailleur has the right 'starting point' I'm guessing the problem is a little too much cable tension. Verify the limit screw adjustments then shift to the big ring. Shift to the 'trimmed' position (the one that will put the derailleur closest to shifting back down to the small ring w/o actually shifting down) and shift to the big cog. decrease cable tension until the chain doesn't rub on the frt der cage.


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## Gigi (Mar 30, 2014)

Thanks, I think I followed what you suggested, sounds better now, but still I have some friction in 2 sprockets, less than before.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

One thing I look for especially w/ the newer front derailleurs is proper cable tension. If you have too much the 'trim' click won't do any good because the derailleur won't move in far enough to clear the chain in the position you're talking about. You want just enough tension that the derailleur doesn't move back once it hits the high limit screw, but not so much it barely moves when you trim it.

With 6800 and 9000 I set the low limit w/ the cable undone. If it's a new bike or new cables/housing, I then dial in about 3/4 of a turn on the low limit and attach the cable. This gives me a little 'head start' because I know the housing is going to compress some and the cable will end up being loose. Then I back off the limit screw to its proper adjustment. At this point I'll shift to high gear and back a few times and also hold the front derailleur while I click a couple of upshifts on the shifter to really compress the housing and seat the ferrules. If this results in the cable being really loose in the lowest position (front derailleur now), I'll do the limit screw cheater thing again and pull the cable tight in the anchor bolt. 
Now I'm finally ready to set the cable tension. Shift the rear derailleur to the 6th cog down and the front derailleur cage should be close to touch the chain the 'trimmed' position. If it's not add some tension til it's really close. Shift the the 11 and up to the big ring. If your high limit is set correctly you won't get any noise nor will the chain over shift past the big ring. Shift the rear up til it's in the 3 or 4th cog from low gear and see if you get any chain rub on the front. If you do, back off the tension a bit til it doesn't rub. Then shift down to the small ring and check for rub, then trim the derailleur all the way to it's lowest position...you should see a good amount of movement when you hit the 'trim' click. If the derailleur doesn't move much you have too much tension. 

Confirm proper tension by going back up the big ring and make sure the cage doesn't move after the shift. If it moves back at all, add a bit of tension. 

Setting these derailleurs up perfectly isn't hard, it's just more labor intensive than older derailleurs.


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

cxwrench said:


> One thing I look for especially w/ the newer front derailleurs is proper cable tension. If you have too much the 'trim' click won't do any good because the derailleur won't move in far enough to clear the chain in the position you're talking about. You want just enough tension that the derailleur doesn't move back once it hits the high limit screw, but not so much it barely moves when you trim it.
> 
> With 6800 and 9000 I set the low limit w/ the cable undone. If it's a new bike or new cables/housing, I then dial in about 3/4 of a turn on the low limit and attach the cable. This gives me a little 'head start' because I know the housing is going to compress some and the cable will end up being loose. Then I back off the limit screw to its proper adjustment. At this point I'll shift to high gear and back a few times and also hold the front derailleur while I click a couple of upshifts on the shifter to really compress the housing and seat the ferrules. If this results in the cable being really loose in the lowest position (front derailleur now), I'll do the limit screw cheater thing again and pull the cable tight in the anchor bolt.
> Now I'm finally ready to set the cable tension. Shift the rear derailleur to the 6th cog down and the front derailleur cage should be close to touch the chain the 'trimmed' position. If it's not add some tension til it's really close. Shift the the 11 and up to the big ring. If your high limit is set correctly you won't get any noise nor will the chain over shift past the big ring. Shift the rear up til it's in the 3 or 4th cog from low gear and see if you get any chain rub on the front. If you do, back off the tension a bit til it doesn't rub. Then shift down to the small ring and check for rub, then trim the derailleur all the way to it's lowest position...you should see a good amount of movement when you hit the 'trim' click. If the derailleur doesn't move much you have too much tension.
> ...


This. If initial tension isn't perfect, subsequent adjustments are only an exercise in frustration. You really CAN get that initial tension too tight and, of course, too loose. Either one will stall out your efforts. I ended up fraying and replacing my first FD cable, but eventually got it right. When I did, the FD was self-healing.


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## sgs0331 (Aug 29, 2014)

Did they go back to requiring trim to reach all cogs on 6800? I am positive that a properly set up 6700 front derailleur does not require trim in the big ring.

As for fraying a brand new shifter cable setting of a front derailleur, that has happened to me also. I find the easiest way to get the approximate proper initial tension is leave the cable completely uncut and wrap around my right hand a few times and use my left hand to feel the tension on the cable as it descends the left side of the downtube. Once I have the anchoring bolt set, I wrap all the excess cable cable around the seat tube while I do my adjustments. If I have to readjust the anchoring bolt, the cable usually holds together if it's yet to be trimmed.


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## kbiker3111 (Nov 7, 2006)

sgs0331 said:


> Did they go back to requiring trim to reach all cogs on 6800? I am positive that a properly set up 6700 front derailleur does not require trim in the big ring.
> 
> As for fraying a brand new shifter cable setting of a front derailleur, that has happened to me also. I find the easiest way to get the approximate proper initial tension is leave the cable completely uncut and wrap around my right hand a few times and use my left hand to feel the tension on the cable as it descends the left side of the downtube. Once I have the anchoring bolt set, I wrap all the excess cable cable around the seat tube while I do my adjustments. If I have to readjust the anchoring bolt, the cable usually holds together if it's yet to be trimmed.


For some reason, yes, 9000 shifting requires trim in the big ring. Dumb.


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## Gigi (Mar 30, 2014)

I think the cable is key and could be the cause of the friction. Changing a cable is totally new so I need to do some more research. Thanks all for the good advice. Keep smiling.


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