# 2020 Domane Gravel build



## Emilio700

With the 2020 Trek Domane SLR gaining so much tire clearance, I saw that it fit my needs for a gravel race bike perfectly. I don't bikepack but I'm looking forward to running fenders on it for wet winter road rides. Integrated fender mounts make this a breeze.

Standard Domane Endurance geometry was too tall for me. The lower Pro Endurance geometry only available through their Project One custom site. Splashed some flashy paint on it while I was in there 

60 CM Pro Endurance geometry
Dura Ace Di2
D/A power meter 180mm cranks
Ultegra 46/34T
D/A 140mm rotors
Ultegra RX805 clutch derailleur
D/A front derailleur
XT 11-40T cassette 
Bontrager 42cm x 12cm XXX one piece carbon bars
Specialized power saddle
Crank Bros Egg Beater 11 pedals
Carbon cages

DT240 hubs
Sapim CX ray spokes
Light Bicycle 23mm internal carbon tubeless
Michelin Power Gravel 35c

Weighs about 18.5 lbs. I knew the build would be a bit heavy but comfort and durability is far more important at mile 150 in Dirty Kanza than a few grams here or there.

Tire clearance in rear is 54mm. The Michelins measure 37.2mm on my wheels. Easily room for a 40c pushed out to 42mm on a wide rim. Running fenders will require smaller tires of course. Winter road plan is 28c GP500 tubeless

Build notes:
FD adjustment slot would not go low enough for 46T chainring. Had to file it about 2mm lower to get correct FD height.

Cables are easy to run despite being all internal. Didn't even need my Park IR 1.2 cable routing kit that every other IR bike I have built required.

On all my Di2 bikes I install the wireless transmitter between the bars and TT. This allows easier service but also lets me unplug shifters from battery. For any Di2 owners who have inadvertently drained their battery by storing the bike against a Di2 trigger..

T47 threaded BB is awesome!

Storage roll in DT is way too small for gravel tube. Barely enough room for road tube. I plan to find a small pump that will fit in there. Ordered the Bontrager BITS multitool that clicks into the cover on the inside.


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## Lombard

Emilio700 said:


> Tire clearance in rear is 54mm. The Michelins measure 37.2mm on my wheels. Easily room for a 40c pushed out to 42mm on a wide rim. Running fenders will require smaller tires of course. Winter road plan is 28c GP500 tubeless


Better yet, get a 650b wheel set so you can run larger tires with the fenders.


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## Emilio700

Lombard said:


> Better yet, get a 650b wheel set so you can run larger tires with the fenders.


I have no need for large tires with fenders. Only need fenders for road riding in the rain on 28's.

Personally, I have no interest or need for tires wider than about 40c. Everyone has their own preference, riding style and preferred terrain.


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## davesupra

Sweet build. I'm not a flashy orange kind of guy, but everyone has their color preferences. I really like your choice of components, and the nice clean look.


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## PoorInRichfield

I abso-freakin'-lutely love the color choice! Being a child of the '80s when neon colors became a thing, I've always wanted a bright orange bike.

I can only dream that my boring black 2020 Domane will somehow magically change colors


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## Lombard

Emilio700 said:


> I have no need for large tires with fenders. Only need fenders for road riding in the rain on 28's.
> 
> Personally, I have no interest or need for tires wider than about 40c. Everyone has their own preference, riding style and preferred terrain.


OK, I misunderstood and thought you may have wanted to keep a similar tire width that you use without the fenders.


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## Rashadabd

I like it. I identified the same potential when I saw a SL version in a local shop. I also see people are doing something similar at a much lower price point with the new Giant Contend AR, which has the same tire clearance. Both seem like great mixed terrain bikes. Specialized has to be hating themselves for limiting the new Roubaix’s tire clearance to 33mm now.


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## Srode

Beautiful build! And 18.5 is not heavy by any means for a gravel bike. I personally want room for more tire in the front, not the rear but everyone has their own preferences. Sure wish someone would come out with a good sub compact crank dual sided power meter. Did you build it from a frame up? If so curious why you didn't choose GRX components and a more gravel specific handlebar?


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## Emilio700

Rashadabd,

Yup. The days of the single purpose road bike might be over. The folks that don't race aren't even aware of the massive tire clearance, aren't concerned with a few grams of extra weight and oh looky, rack mounts! 




Srode said:


> Beautiful build! And 18.5 is not heavy by any means for a gravel bike. I personally want room for more tire in the front, not the rear but everyone has their own preferences. Sure wish someone would come out with a good sub compact crank dual sided power meter. Did you build it from a frame up? If so curious why you didn't choose GRX components and a more gravel specific handlebar?


Thanks. The cranks on this bike are dual sided power with a 46/34. Not cheap but flawless function and will last forever. As a bonus, Ultegra rings are way less expensive than D/A. I imagine a non series or Ultegra power meter crank is on its way from Shimano. Cranks are a fraction of the cost though, the expense is in the meters. 

Yah, frame up build. If I am only switching one or two components, it's cheaper to buy a complete bike. In my case, I wanted everything but the shifters, FD and calipers to be custom.

Not a huge fan of the flared GRX shifters. Still prefer road hoods even for gravel. JD/A is also quite a bit lighter. Just personal preference.

Also not a fan of flared bars. I ride gravel like I do road. I race cyclocross and use standard road bars there too, 3T Ergonova carbon to be precise.


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## Lombard

Emilio700 said:


> Thanks. The cranks on this bike are dual sided power with a *56/34*.


Is this an error?


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## Emilio700

Lombard said:


> Is this an error?


oops, yes typo. Same 46/34 as in my original post.


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## Srode

Emilio700 said:


> Thanks. The cranks on this bike are dual sided power with a 46/34. Not cheap but flawless function and will last forever.
> 
> 
> Not a huge fan of the flared GRX shifters.
> 
> Also not a fan of flared bars.


The 46/34 is still a compact crank not sub compact which is what I would like to see. 46 or 47 / 30 or 31 combinations are perfect for gravel IMHO but it depends on the grades you have around you - if there's nothing long over 10% compact gearing works fine for me. 

I didn't realize the GRX Shifters are flared, thought that was just the bars? Personally I like the 785 shifters better than the current versions of Di2 Hydraulic because they are wider and distribute the weight better, but haven't had a chance to put my hands on the GRX shifters yet. I like that the GRX shifters put the hidden button on the inside instead by the thumb of the top, that's a great design change they should do with their road shifters too.


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## Emilio700

The asymmetric 110mm BCD on 11s Dura Ace / Ultegra / 105 allows anything from 34-44t inner and 42-56t outer. I run the exact same crank on my road bike (Cervelo S5 disc) with 52/36 and will run a single 42t ring on my cyclocross race bike. Quite versatile. 

Dura Ace have the hidden buttons under the hood. That's where that feature made its debut several years ago. Not sure if Ultegra has them. I use that button for switching pages on the Garmin.

Visit the Shimano site for more info.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-r8000/FC-R8000.html


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## Srode

Emilio700 said:


> The asymmetric 110mm BCD on 11s Dura Ace / Ultegra / 105 allows anything from 34-44t inner and 42-56t outer. I run the exact same crank on my road bike (Cervelo S5 disc) with 52/36 and will run a single 42t ring on my cyclocross race bike. Quite versatile.
> 
> Dura Ace have the hidden buttons under the hood. That's where that feature made its debut several years ago. Not sure if Ultegra has them. I use that button for switching pages on the Garmin.
> 
> Visit the Shimano site for more info.
> 
> https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-r8000/FC-R8000.html


i am very familiar with compact cranks and the Dura Ace power meter - I want a crank based *SUB compact* power meter like a GRX crank not compact / 110BCD. There's probably a dozen options for compact / 110 BCD crank based power meters, I already of 2 of those (Power2Max and Pioneer). Sub compact small rings are 30/31/32, not 34.


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## Emilio700

Ah. That's sorta MTB territory. I ran XTR 2x cranks on my gravel bike for a while just for that reason but those were single sided. Used Wolftooth custom rings. Had a 28/44 on XTR 10s. That's a tough one, 31t and dual sided. I'd start a new thread on the MTB section to see if anyone has an option. Good luck.


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## Srode

Emilio700 said:


> Ah. That's sorta MTB territory. I ran XTR 2x cranks on my gravel bike for a while just for that reason but those were single sided. Used Wolftooth custom rings. Had a 28/44 on XTR 10s. That's a tough one, 31t and dual sided. I'd start a new thread on the MTB section to see if anyone has an option. Good luck.


nobody makes them right now, lots of people looking for them. My money is on power2max or Easton to be the first to the market with a set. For now I use my power2max compact.


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## Emilio700

Srode said:


> nobody makes them right now, lots of people looking for them. My money is on power2max or Easton to be the first to the market with a set. For now I use my power2max compact.


https://rotorbike.com/catalog/default/rotor/road/powermeters/inspider/inspider.html


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## Srode

Emilio700 said:


> https://rotorbike.com/catalog/default/rotor/road/powermeters/inspider/inspider.html


it's compact not sub compact from what I can see, smallest rings are 34.


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## Emilio700

*40c on 2020 Domane*

Got the 40c Ramblers fitted, 41.2mm actual on these rims. Roughly 6mm clearance on either side, both front and rear. That's at widest point. Chainstay clearance is curved so less clearance at other points on casing. Plenty for slightly muddy conditions. Wouldn't want to go much bigger in heavy mud. Guessing you could safely stuff a 44mm tire in there in dry conditions for a light to medium rider. Heavy riders tend to flex wheels more thus more likely to get tire rub out of the saddle.


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## Emilio700

First big mountain ride. 61 miles, 9,100' gain. On the 40c ramblers.


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## PoorInRichfield

Wow... now that's gravel riding! Where's the nearest coffee shop?


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## Emilio700

PoorInRichfield said:


> Wow... now that's gravel riding! Where's the nearest coffee shop?


None on that particular route. It's pretty much all Cleveland National Forest.

Good coffee in OC though. Scouting some more urban/mixed gravel routes for a ride I want to put on. Start/finishes at a brewpub with 40 taps, french bakery at halfway point. Should be fun.


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## Srode

Emilio700 said:


> First big mountain ride. 61 miles, 9,100' gain. On the 40c ramblers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 326871


Terrain Enve! Where is this, looks awesome!


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## bvber

Srode said:


> Terrain Enve! Where is this, looks awesome!


Cleveland National Forest is not in or near Cleveland, Ohio where it's all flat.


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## Emilio700

Srode said:


> Terrain Enve! Where is this, looks awesome!


4000 to 6,000 ft range about 20 miles inland, southern California. Eastern border of Orange county. I live and work at the base of the Western slope. In the distance is the 1500 ft coastal range where I rode the Domane yesterday. Spectacular panorama's of the hazy blue Pacific. Tough living but someone has to do it


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## GlobalGuy

What a great looking awesome custom build bike! It looks very fast. You better be fast! 

I can't even imagine the amount of spare change lying around for such a beauty. 

Congrats!


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## Emilio700

Thanks
Single, no kids, prime earning years. I'd rather have a wife and kids but that never worked out. So now I have time to train and a few bucks to spend on toys


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## TimV

Nice looking bike. I'm curious, do you also have a road bike? If so, how does this compare in terms of the size you selected? Did you go for the same top tube length as your roadie or something different? I'm planning on building a gravel rig this year. My two road bikes have 575mm top tubes. Not sure if I want the same size or not. I've heard some people go down a size for gravel and CX for a little more agility and standover room. TIA.


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## Emilio700

TimV said:


> Nice looking bike. I'm curious, do you also have a road bike? If so, how does this compare in terms of the size you selected? Did you go for the same top tube length as your roadie or something different? I'm planning on building a gravel rig this year. My two road bikes have 575mm top tubes. Not sure if I want the same size or not. I've heard some people go down a size for gravel and CX for a little more agility and standover room. TIA.


Top tube is a useful reference point but what I look for is reach and stack. The height of my bars relative to the bottom bracket between my road and cross bikes is significant, ~60 mm or so. My goal with the Domane was to be about 30mm above my road bike bar height. My Cervelo S5 disc is very low in front, focused on aero. Fore-aft reach, I was aiming for about 10 mm closer than the reach on my S5. Those targets were impossible with the standard Domane geometry but fit perfectly with the optional Pro geometry.

My cross bikes are shorter reach and taller bar height. Make sure you have measurements for the relationship between the bottom bracket centerline of the bars and seat. Then your relationship from the seat to the wheelbase will dictate weight distribution and how the bike handles. I did not intentionally choose a smaller frame for handling.


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## Wookiebiker

TimV said:


> Nice looking bike. I'm curious, do you also have a road bike? If so, how does this compare in terms of the size you selected? Did you go for the same top tube length as your roadie or something different? I'm planning on building a gravel rig this year. My two road bikes have 575mm top tubes. Not sure if I want the same size or not. I've heard some people go down a size for gravel and CX for a little more agility and standover room. TIA.


Top tubes tend to be longer and stems shorter for gravel bikes ... the overall reach to the bars is basically the same, but the center of gravity is different on gravel bikes.

I wouldn't use the same geometry as your road bike ... but look at what should be considered an equal size gravel bike for your size road bike ... so, S/M/L/XL, etc. figure out what those dimensions are and go from there.

If you don't know ... test ride, test ride, test ride.

Myself ... My set up is similar to that of my road bikes, however the reach is 1cm longer and the stem 1cm shorter. I'd prefer to have 2-3cm more reach in the frame with a shorter stem ... but I have a weird fit with long arms and body and short legs: If I get a bike with the correct reach, I can't stand over it and the bar is "WAY' to tall, so I have to size down 1-2 sizes and make it work.

I have also eliminated all my road bikes now and just have my gravel bike with an extra set of wheels so I can switch out between road and gravel tires easily ... works just fine, but being on a 1x drivetrain the gaps can be a little large on the road, but not a huge deal overall since I'm not road racing any longer.


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## Emilio700

Update after a few thousand miles of mostly offroad use. Had the nuts that hold the isospeed trunion in place come loose. Misdiagnosed as a loose headset so I rode on it for a while that way. Doh. Thankfully, the nuts (#22 in schematic) have a conical versus shank seat design. So the bosses in the frame weren't ovalized. A bit of tiny carbon fragments but I escaped a major frame repair. The nuts have an integral eccentric washer that keeps them from spinning as you turn the center bolt (#21) to torque down. The nuts were blue loctited from the factory. Cleaned and red loctited, then probably over torqued a wee bit. No play, all good now. The bolts on my Boone with front isospeed never came loose with maybe 3x the miles and a bunch of cross races. Maybe a different fastener design on the '18 Boone, dunno

So if you have a 2020 Domane and ride it off road, might not be a bad idea to preemptively pull those fasteners and red loctite them to factory torque spec.


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## Emilio700

Update after a few thousand miles of mostly offroad use. Had the nuts that hold the isospeed trunion in place come loose. Misdiagnosed as a loose headset so I rode on it for a while that way. Doh. Thankfully, the nuts (#22 in schematic) have a conical versus shank seat design. So the bosses in the frame weren't ovalized. A bit of tiny carbon fragments but I escaped a major frame repair. The nuts have an integral eccentric washer that keeps them from spinning as you turn the center bolt (#21) to torque down. The nuts were blue loctited from the factory. Cleaned and red loctited, then probably over torqued a wee bit. No play, all good now. The bolts on my Boone with front isospeed never came loose with maybe 3x the miles and a bunch of cross races. Maybe a different fastener design on the '18 Boone, dunno

So if you have a 2020 Domane and ride it off road, might not be a bad idea to preemptively pull those fasteners and red loctite them to factory torque spec.


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## JSR

Emilio700 said:


> So if you have a 2020 Domane and ride it off road, might not be a bad idea to preemptively pull those fasteners and red loctite them to factory torque spec.


 So what is the torque spec?


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## Emilio700

JSR said:


> So what is the torque spec?


I believe it is in the image posted of the parts list, 5.2nm


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## JSR

Ah, I see it now. Thanks.


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## Emilio700

JSR said:


> Ah, I see it now. Thanks.


Yah, tiny font if you'r viewing on your phone


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## Emilio700

From Belgian Waffle Ride - Cedar City, UT. Oct 17


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## rudge66

Just saw this tread , some good info Emilio. And nice to finally see someone on this forum with the physical flexibility to set the bar/ stem height, in a similar fashion as me. 
After all, performance is comfort.


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## Emilio700

rudge66 said:


> And nice to finally see someone on this forum with the physical flexibility to set the bar/ stem height, in a similar fashion as me.


Cervelo S5 disc is my road bike, about 2cm lower


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## rudge66

LOL you get it! ... fitness, flexibility, and bike fit; all come together to enhance performance. And comfort is the sum total.
It doesn't work the other way around.
I'm strictly on the road, Giant TRC, and winter/wet bike BMC RoadMachine.
Both bikes kick ass.


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## Lombard

rudge66 said:


> Just saw this tread , some good info Emilio. *And nice to finally see someone on this forum with the physical flexibility to set the bar/ stem height, in a similar fashion as me. *
> After all, performance is comfort.


You're still obsessed with this, aren't you?


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## carlosflanders

Nice! Looks like you got second in your AG. Anything you'd change? Tire size, bardrop, gearing etc. Would love a report.


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## PoorInRichfield

Uh-oh... looks like your knee is leaking!










I'm still in love with that solid orange build


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## Emilio700

*BWR Cedar City report and bike setup*



carlosflanders said:


> Nice! Looks like you got second in your AG. Anything you'd change? Tire size, bardrop, gearing etc. Would love a report.


Thanks.
Results link from BWR CC https://www.omnigoevents.com/events/bwr-cedar-city-2020/results

Video from Vegan Cyclist (Tyler Pearce). We saw him during our pre ride and popped up in both videos
Orange Domane, yellow safety vest, blinky lights and white helmet. You can see me several times up to about the 7 minute mark where he gets ahead of me.
Race
https://youtu.be/APie78U_c3I

Pre ride
https://youtu.be/FGH5k1SO5bk?t=424

Joe Goettl's video really showed what the surface, race conditions and visibility were like at the front. I was about 10-20 riders behind Joe up until about mile 22.

Bike was perfect save the mechanical that was my fault, details below. After pre-riding a bit I decided to go all in for low rolling resistance. Locally, I run like 30psi. For BWR CC I ran 45 F, 55 R in the 40c Pirelli Gravel H on 24mm internal wheels. It was fast and the right choice. Much of the dirt road sections were washboards but even running 30psi would not have changed the pummeling much. I rely on carbon bars, a good saddle and the Iso decouplers to do the shock absorption. So much of the course was hardpack or pavement that the tradeoff was worth it. If your bike handling skills aren't solid though, I would run lower pressure.

The Gravel H is almost a slick in the center and has just a short tread off center. For this course, a solid center rib is a must. No need for huge tread lugs off center unless your handling skills are weak.

Wish BWR allowed aero bars. I would have ran them.

Ran my Bontrager Ion/Flare DRL's with remote button. Open public roads so a rear blinky is a must.

The burly Bando cages are a must. No lost bottles. I calculated that 8x26 oz bottles would be just enough, barely. I ended up sucking down a 9th 21oz bottle at my 3rd stop. 

For fuel I relied on Hammer Perpetuem in 250ML hydrapak soft flasks. Each holds 675 calories mixed pretty thin. Caffeinated clif bloks just before last climb. French's mustard packets to stave off cramps. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L4NAMW
Some folks prefer pickle juice or malt vinegar packets. Hammer fizz tablet for electrolytes in one bottle.
Small top tube bag at stem and second, smaller TT bag up against seat mast plus what I had in my pockets.

The mechanical was a recurring issue I've had with my Shimano drop bar hydro levers, rear brake going dead. Lever goes back with no resistance, losing rear brake. Turns out even when they feel bled, they can have a tiny air bubble trapped somewhere that gets knocked loose on rough terrain (washboard) and sucked into master cylinder, creating the dead lever. Crashed on first descent as a result, the bloody knee, sprained left hand and road rash on left hip. The correct bleeding procedure involves loosing the stem to rotate the bars back and forth to work any bubbles out. Also involves both using syringe to fill brake from caliper and pushing fluid back down from lever. My lack of thoroughness in prep cost me probably 30 minutes over race distance with the crash, no rear brake after mile 23 and needing to slow down on rough sections to reduce the pain in my left hand.

I carry a spare tube and Trek multitool in the downtube compartment. Seat bag has patch kit, another tube, 2x 25g CO2's, inflator head, steel core lever, bit of microfiber to wipe hands.

The race itself was intense, like the start of Kanza, BWR or any big gravel race. Full gas once the flag drops. Big watts just to stay anywhere near the front. Low to zero visibility with the dust. Sometimes gravel roads are all buffed hardpack. Other times there is a layer of pea gravel and silt on top. Often those layers are in long furrows like a plowed filed, made by the local car traffic. Most of BWRCC was the latter type, loose and ultra sketchy. You're blasting along at 25mph hitting these furrows longitudinally, catching front and back wheel and squirming around. Of course you can't see the furrows its as if you're riding at night without lights. Meanwhile you're just below threshold at 6,000' gasping for O2 but getting mostly dust. There must have been 5-10 crashes in the top 100 before we even hit the first real climb. 

My rear brake failed on the first descent when I was in the top 40 riders or so. After that my left hand was throbbing so bad I thought I broke a finger. I run my rear brake on the left so every descent was ridden sorta one handed, left hand floating on top while dragging front brake to keep speed/ vibration down. I'm typically one of the fastest descenders but at BWR, I got passed by everybody. 

Due to Covid, BWR allowed outside/personal feeds. There were 6 official stations but I chose to do just 3. Friend handing up bottles without me needing to stop. If you are going for a high placing in any gravel race and they allow outside feeds, I highly recommend getting someone to hand up bottles. Saves the long delay filling from a big cooler. Plus you can have specialized items you like, spares, tools, whatnot.

After the 1st feed, the course flattened out with lots of wide gravel roads and a particularly intense section of double track through rolling terrain. This section of dusty double track made the main selections that stuck for the rest of the day. Grassy/rocky center between lanes on the double track meant the actual rideable groove you desperately tried to stay on was maybe 10" wide. Sand, rocks, holes, twisting, turning, up and down at 16-25mph but pretty much blind because of the dust. This wa by far, the hardest section to stay in the group I was in. Some 25 year old 180lb dude churning out 400w on the front it felt like.

After that section we passed and aid station that dumped onto the first of a long paved section. At that point the groups you would ride with to the finish were pretty established. Still lots of chasing groups ahead but usually just a few riders, mostly shelled.

After my 2nd stop I rode the second half of race solo for the most part. Occasionally getting into groups for short periods. I managed to ride almost the entire final climb which was washboard gravel that got progressively steeper and softer. Last 500m were 14-20% with 3" of cake mix. Stopped to let presure out before the final technical 4.4 mile MTB single track sector, 30 pis I'm guessing. That made a huge difference. Rocked that section but sadly my Garmin 530 had frozen about 2hrs earlier. Locked screen. I'm told Wahoo's are more reliable. Finished strong. Wasn't terribly dehydrated or under fueled so recovered pretty quickly. The guy that beat me is a long time competitor in my age group, he's usually faster. I suspect I would have been much closer with the brake failure and messed up hand.

Overall, the course is fantastic. If you're not aiming for a high placing, I'd lay back at the start to avoid the dust and crashes. It's really dry so drink more than you think. A buff to block some of the dust in the first hour is probably a good idea. Assuming a similar course next year and if you aren't in a hurry, I'd start with lower pressures then crank them up after Aid #2 for the long road sections. Then drop back down for the final climb and single track. Aid stations usually have floor pumps. Bring chain lube, you'll need it at least once during the race. Don't underestimate that last climb. You won't run out of top end gear range anywhere on the course but you will definitely wish for lower gears on that climb. I'm Cat 1 and ran 46/34 x 11-40.


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## davesupra

Emilio700 said:


> Thanks.
> Results link from BWR CC https://www.omnigoevents.com/events/bwr-cedar-city-2020/results


Great writeup, thanks for spending the time to write it. Sorry to hear about the brake failure and crash. :-/



Emilio700 said:


> My rear brake failed on the first descent when I was in the top 40 riders or so. After that my left hand was throbbing so bad I thought I broke a finger. *I run my rear brake on the left* so every descent was ridden sorta one handed, left hand floating on top while dragging front brake to keep speed/ vibration down. I'm typically one of the fastest descenders but at BWR, I got passed by everybody.


Glad to hear I'm not the only one that puts the rear on the left, or more important to me is having the front on the right.


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## Lombard

davesupra said:


> Glad to hear I'm not the only one that puts the rear on the left, or more important to me is having the front on the right.


You must be from the U.K. That's the way bikes are set up there.


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## flanman

Enjoyed the report, thanks. Lots to digest. Well done!


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## davesupra

Lombard said:


> You must be from the U.K. That's the way bikes are set up there.


Nope, I grew up racing motorcycles so the front brake (the most important one IMO) is always on the right to me. I didn't want to try to unlearn years of front/right braking when I started bicycling and it was easy to swap sides.


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## Lombard

davesupra said:


> Nope, I grew up racing motorcycles so the front brake (the most important one IMO) is always on the right to me. I didn't want to try to unlearn years of front/right braking when I started bicycling and it was easy to swap sides.


Interesting. I did not know that motorcycles were set up that way.


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## Emilio700




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## Emilio700

Winter mode


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## BCSaltchucker

Orange so nice. I have a Domane ALR in silver. But I also have a box full of orange and clear paint from Spray.Bike to do a bike sometime. Maybe the Domane gets it. However the bike is really dirty most of the time, from winter gravel riding.


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## Pashiot

Great bike!

I have a Domane SL5 and ride it as a road plus on steroids (40mm Panaracer slick tyres):










What fender width did you go for? Was it necessary to order additional mounting adapters?

It would be great to be able to fit these Bontrager fenders without having to abandon my comfy tyres!


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## Emilio700

Headed to Belgium this week to ride the Tour of Flanders sportif (Fondo). Doing the full race distance 159 miles, 7500'. Decided not to take my Cervelo S5 disc. Wanted bigger tires, lower gears and shock absorption for the cobbles. 46/30 Absolute Black rings x 11-40 XTR cassette. Swiped the aero wheels off the road bike, slapped some Pirelli Velo TLR 32c tubeless that I'll run around 50psi. Route Werks bar bag. Gonna be a hard day.


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