# Vitus 979



## Tachycardic (Mar 31, 2013)

I'm looking for a project bike and stumbled across a Vitus 979 frame. I've heard that these frames have some flex in them, but I'm a smaller rider at 135 pounds. I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyways...
The rear dropout spacing is 126mm. Is it a bad idea to stuff a 130mm hub back there being bonded aluminum and all? Also, I'm looking for some opinions on this frame. TIA!


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## Gregory Taylor (Mar 29, 2002)

I've never owned one.

Folks who have a good one wax lyrical at the ride quality. Others say it is flexy. Everyone worries that the glue holding the bike together doesn't fail after all of these years.

Ask if it has already failed and been re-glued. If it has, ask how it was done.

As for stuffing a 130mm hub into where a 126mm used to go...who knows. Normally this wouldn't be an issue. I might think twice about doing that on a Vitus.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Tachycardic said:


> I'm looking for a project bike and stumbled across a Vitus 979 frame. I've heard that these frames have some flex in them, but I'm a smaller rider at 135 pounds. I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyways...
> The rear dropout spacing is 126mm. Is it a bad idea to stuff a 130mm hub back there being bonded aluminum and all? Also, I'm looking for some opinions on this frame. TIA!


I had one. They're a good frame and yes, kinda flexy (not all bad!) but I was heavier than you. The flex gives them a great ride over rough terrain. Hey, not all flex is lost in a frame. The scientists will tell you that it pays back when it unflexes. And the 979 didn't prevent one of the greatest roadman sprinters of all time - Sean Kelly - winning a boat load of races over many years. Don't worry about the epoxied joints because if they're still sound, they will remain sound.

I don't think I'd spread that rear end to a 130 though as aluminum isn't steel. Maybe someone who has actually done it will chime in.


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## Fignon's Barber (Mar 2, 2004)

I owned a Vitus 992, which was the next generation with strategically ovalized tubes and 130 rear spacing but essentially the same. Loved the bike, but the bike came apart at the brake bridge. If you are stretching the rear triangle to accomodate the 130mm hub in the 979, my feeling is this wouldn't be a great scenario for that glued brake bridge. If you are set on using a 130mm hub, there are plenty other great vintage frames out there to choose.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Fignon's Barber said:


> I owned a Vitus 992, which was the next generation with strategically ovalized tubes and 130 rear spacing but essentially the same. Loved the bike, but the bike came apart at the brake bridge. If you are stretching the rear triangle to accomodate the 130mm hub in the 979, my feeling is this wouldn't be a great scenario for that glued brake bridge. If you are set on using a 130mm hub, there are plenty other great vintage frames out there to choose.


The break bridge can be a problem is what I've heard/read also.

PS...My wife owns one and she loves it. Six speed Shimano 600 group.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

My friend is built like a fireplug and a big gear masher. He loved his 979 so much that when it broke, he bought another one.

He also stuck a 130mm wheel in the rear end when he upgraded to STI. No need to cold set the frame; it spread fine. The brake bridge never failed. A fork blade came unglued...

By the way, the seatpost is 25.0mm, I believe. It's a rare size, but they are available.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

There is a site by a guy who repairs Vitus bonded frames. He had tubes and lugs in stock. I saw posters on LFGSS discussing it, one of them had disassembled a 979 and cut it down to fit his child!

Some disassemble the frame and use modern glue to put it back together. The original glue was inconsistent and commonly fails. It fails more often than the tubing.

I would not be spreading the ends to fit a 130 hub.

At 135 that frame will last you forever, hopefully.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Peter P. said:


> the seatpost is 25.0mm, I believe. It's a rare size, but they are available.


That is absolutely true.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Why not just build a 126mm wheel?

I decided to play around with a Shimano Capreo hub which is nice since it comes default 135mm, but uses several 5mm spacers, so drop one spacer and cut the axle and one gets 130mm. Drop two spacers and cut the axle, and one gets 126mm or so. I already re-used one of the spacers on a different bike. 

I did decided to try an Off Center rim as I was pushing the dishing to the max.

I suppose the risk is having redundancy in your spare parts as different bikes would not be able to share the rear wheels.


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## Chombi (Jun 23, 2012)

CliffordK said:


> Why not just build a 126mm wheel?
> 
> I decided to play around with a Shimano Capreo hub which is nice since it comes default 135mm, but uses several 5mm spacers, so drop one spacer and cut the axle and one gets 130mm. Drop two spacers and cut the axle, and one gets 126mm or so. I already re-used one of the spacers on a different bike.
> 
> ...


Splaying out the rear from 126 to 135mm on a bonded aluminum framed bike is not a good idea 126 to 130mm is already pushing it with aluminum, but 135mm is really asking for trouble, IMO. Aluminum does not take too well to bending as it is more prone to cracking under such stress, compared to steel. If you already cold set the rear triangle to 135, don't even think of bending it back again , ever, as aluminum might give you just one chance in bending it one way, one time without real damage, but bending it back the other way will most likely start some micro cracking in the material which would just get worse in time, and lead to a tubing falure. Smae goes with the aluminum dropouts and the derailleur mount.
Watch the rear brake bridge connections to the seat stays really close too.....


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

I wasn't suggesting spacing the frame to 135, but rather cutting the hub down to 126, which is easy enough with some hubs depending on the spacer design.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Harry Havnoonian was the guy who re-glued Vitus frames. He also manufactured his own frame using the same construction techniques and similar design.

I have a 979 as you can tell from my handle. It was my race and training bike in the 80s and early 90s until I quit riding. I rode it for a while in the early 2000s when I started riding again, then turned it into a rain/backup bike.

The frame's ride is as good as any of my modern carbon frames. Fork is a little harsher. The frame does flex more than the modern carbon frames but I don't mind it.

I would not spread the rear triangle with a 130mm hub. Find a 126mm hub or mod a 130mm hub. I'm using a 126mm hyperglide hub and 8 of 9 cogs. You could run 9 of 10 using 10sp parts.

If yours has the seat post binder that is a set screw that presses on the post instead of a normal seat clamp, use a cheap thick walled seat post. The kind that's cast and has flutes in it. The set screw has a flat tip but it will dent thin walled posts.


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## aa.mclaren (Jun 25, 2008)

*Older Shimano cassette hubs (8s) will help*

It's been 20 years since I owned a Vitus 979 frame, when I weighed 145lbs myself. I went through a couple of build configurations with it over the four or five years that I held onto it. In the end it had then-current 8 speed Ultegra hub wheels at 130mm in there, and I did sell it to somebody even lighter than myself. I never noticed any problems with doing that. Actually those early 1990s Shimano hubs, like:

VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FH-6402, 600 Ultegra

had locknuts that were bevelled or slightly domed around their perimeter, which did help with evenly spreading the 130mm width into 126mm frames, and maybe distribution of stress. These fit the Vitus frame fine.

It's funny the next frame I got, made by a local frame builder which I still have, has a rear spacing of 128mm. That however is a very rigid rear triangle made with Reynolds 753 tubes. Now my memory is not 100% reliable on this but I think it was no more difficult to install a 130mm wide wheel on either, there is a bit of resistance with the steel frame, I do not recall having more difficulty getting those old wheels on the back of the Vitus. And yes I raced on it a few times in the first couple of years I had it, ended up selling to a junior racer set up with lower gears. It was a stylish one, black anodised main tubes, Dia Compe Royal Gran Comp brakes all in black (including levers) a bit too small for me but I had also used it as a time trial bike for a time. There is no disadvantage to having a frame with the ride characteristics of a Vitus for that kind of ride. Time trialling is about smooth pedalling, not hammering out the sprints, so lateral deflection is not really an issue. That was a 56cm frame, but I do not know if spreading the rear triangle gets easier or not, with a larger or smaller frame size. The only other Vitus I ever built myself (for someone else) was a later model 797, but that was made with a 130mm rear end.


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## Chombi (Jun 23, 2012)

aa.mclaren said:


> It's been 20 years since I owned a Vitus 979 frame, when I weighed 145lbs myself. I went through a couple of build configurations with it over the four or five years that I held onto it. In the end it had then-current 8 speed Ultegra hub wheels at 130mm in there, and I did sell it to somebody even lighter than myself. I never noticed any problems with doing that. Actually those early 1990s Shimano hubs, like:
> 
> VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FH-6402, 600 Ultegra
> 
> ...


'
Reynolds 753 is heat treated and rear triangles made with such cannot be spread wider as it will just spring back to it's original width.


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## aa.mclaren (Jun 25, 2008)

Chombi said:


> '
> Reynolds 753 is heat treated and rear triangles made with such cannot be spread wider as it will just spring back to it's original width.


Reynolds 753 rear triangles cannot be *cold set* to a different width after construction, sure. I've known that for over two decades, and owned this frame, putting 130mm hubs into its 128mm width, throughout most of its existence. Yes, the 753 does have enough flexibility to spread that extra bit with the hub, and of course it reverts to the original dimension when the hub is removed. No, that is not a problem, never was, never will be. That frame is currently running Campy 11s no worries.

I only mentioned this in comparison, but with the Vitus 979 frame I never bothered trying to set it either, it was able to take the above 8s wheels without too much fuss.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

I used to own one these, bought new, in 1987/88. Worst bike I have ever ridden, awful.
The ride is VERY harsh and the frame has a dead feeling. Vertical compliance on these is nil. I've read on these forums about people saying the ride quality is good. I had mine for about 15 years. No problems with the bonding though, or anything else.
But the ride quality? My hands are hurting just thinking about it. And it wasn't only one . I lent the bike to a friend of mine and he complained about how harsh the ride was.
You can still buy a quality steel frame because they are good. You will never be able to buy a new frame like the Vitus, not because of the cost, because they are junk. If your spending money on this project, I would seriously suggest you have a re-think.


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## mfdemicco (Nov 8, 2002)

giosblue said:


> I used to own one these, bought new, in 1987/88. Worst bike I have ever ridden, awful.
> The ride is VERY harsh and the frame has a dead feeling. Vertical compliance on these is nil. I've read on these forums about people saying the ride quality is good. I had mine for about 15 years. No problems with the bonding though, or anything else.
> But the ride quality? My hands are hurting just thinking about it. And it wasn't only one . I lent the bike to a friend of mine and he complained about how harsh the ride was.
> You can still buy a quality steel frame because they are good. You will never be able to buy a new frame like the Vitus, not because of the cost, because they are junk. If your spending money on this project, I would seriously suggest you have a re-think.


How could a bike as flexy as this ride harsh? Must have been something else causing the stiff ride.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

mfdemicco said:


> How could a bike as flexy as this ride harsh? Must have been something else causing the stiff ride.


You just need to look at how the frame is made, it then becomes obvious.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

giosblue said:


> You just need to look at how the frame is made, it then becomes obvious.


This makes no sense. 

Tubes glued into lugs can be made pliable or rigid depending on the tube, you could make two frames that looked identical with very different ride characteristics.
I tried a couple of Vitus frames, alloy and alloy/carbon, they were quite plush. This is the first time I have ever heard them called harsh.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

giosblue said:


> You just need to look at how the frame is made, it then becomes obvious.


Explain the obvious for those less astute than yourself. 

My wife has always enjoyed the ride of her Vitus, because of the plush ride. The only bike that she has ridden which she says is more comfortable, is her Univega Specialissima, a touring bike, and that has more to do with her upright position and low pressure 32mm tires.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

They were made with narrow diameter tubing and the tubing walls are quite thick, very thick in places. It had to be to give it the strength a bicycle frame needs. This provides a very dense and dead frame. I'm not sure how long they made these for, but it was too long. They were that good they never made anything like it since. You can still buy a new steel frame that was exactly the same as when the Vitus were being made. At the time my bike was a Raleigh Sirocco, then I bought the Vitus and I was immediately disappointed with the ride, it beat me up, the Raleigh knocked into a cocked hat for ride quality. But the Vitus was lighter looked better and I just spent £650 on it 1987, so I kept it. Later I swapped out the fork for a carbon one. Big improvement, but still poor compared to the Raleigh. Like I said, this design and construction will not be making a comeback any time soon, because they wouldn't sell, yet steel do Alloy bikes do. But not made like these were. To all those who own these, if your happy with them, that's all that matters.


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## Chombi (Jun 23, 2012)

giosblue said:


> They were made with narrow diameter tubing and the tubing walls are quite thick, very thick in places. It had to be to give it the strength a bicycle frame needs. This provides a very dense and dead frame. I'm not sure how long they made these for, but it was too long. They were that good they never made anything like it since. You can still buy a new steel frame that was exactly the same as when the Vitus were being made. At the time my bike was a Raleigh Sirocco, then I bought the Vitus and I was immediately disappointed with the ride, it beat me up, the Raleigh knocked into a cocked hat for ride quality. But the Vitus was lighter looked better and I just spent £650 on it 1987, so I kept it. Later I swapped out the fork for a carbon one. Big improvement, but still poor compared to the Raleigh. Like I said, this design and construction will not be making a comeback any time soon, because they wouldn't sell, yet steel do Alloy bikes do. But not made like these were. To all those who own these, if your happy with them, that's all that matters.


You want to feel what a real harsh riding aluminum bike feels like? Go ride an 80's Cannondale. Even my youngest brother's tough as nails college age butt couldn't stand the punishment for too many miles on his Cannondale Black Lightning back them... I doubt if the 979 even approaches that kind of ride harshness. I always head of people complaining of the harsh ride from Cannondales, but frankly, never from people that ride the 979s until I read you post 
I never owned a 979, but my Vitus Carbone 7 Plus rides like a plush magic carpet, so I'm wondering how far apart could the ride characteristics be between a 979 (aluiminum) and a Carbone 7 (CF)?? BTW, they share the same forks.


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## drstawl (Mar 17, 2015)

Hello. I found this Forum from a search about Vitus 979 frames.

I have to disagree about this being a harsh ride.

My only complaint is the creaking sound when I really lean on it, as in climbing or sprinting.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

The creaking could be a sign it's coming apart.

Mine is/was also a comfortable ride. I disagree strongly with the one guy who says they're rough.


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## drstawl (Mar 17, 2015)

ericm979 said:


> The creaking could be a sign it's coming apart.
> 
> Mine is/was also a comfortable ride. I disagree strongly with the one guy who says they're rough.


I hope not. The saving grace is the increased strength/stability of the 54cm version and my 125 pound contribution to its decomposition.

I was seriously distressed when I first noticed the creaking, but given the four years/40,000 miles the bike has delivered since, I tend to doubt it!


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Mine started creaking a couple years ago and I retired it from rain bike duty. I put a lot of miles on it in the 80s and early 90s.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Mine still does duty on the short distance leisure rides. I haven't seen another 979 on the roads in quite sometime now.


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## gary russell (Jun 11, 2015)

My mountain bike creaked when ridden hard. I removed the bottom bracket, cleaned the frame and bracket, assembled the bike and never heard it again. (for about two months) Fine dirt and dust get in and need to be cleaned. That's what happens when you totally submerge the bike to the seatpost, avoiding another obstacle (bridge) in the trail.


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## gary russell (Jun 11, 2015)

Tachycardic,
You can buy my complete bike. It's a 979. Ready to ride after you put some new rubber on it.
See my add in the for sale list.


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## gary russell (Jun 11, 2015)

Take the bottom bracket out and really clean the frame a bracket where it seats into the frame. Fine dirt and dust gets in and makes them creek. When my MTB started doing it, that's what I did. Take the bike apart and clean all the parts, lubricate where necessary and reassemble. Worked every time.


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