# spacer can spin, too loose?



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I can grab and spin my spacers, not that easily but I can reposition them.
*Does that mean my top cap was set too loose?*

It does shift a bit from riding as I can see them stagger in and out and not perfectly stacked anymore.
Why isn't the tolerance better on the ID of the spacer, maybe it doesn't matter as the spacer is used for vertical.

I think this maybe my occasional creaking noise that comes and goes away usually after a fast descent. That's why I was looking to consolidate the 3 spacers into 1 bigger one.

If I am going to redo these do you recommend any grease between the spacers, what about the inner of the spacers. will the little bit of grease damage the carbon steertube..


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Spacers shouldn't turn too easily, but if you had them tight enough to not turn, the bearings would bind.

Set your headset by eliminating bearing play while allowing the fork to turn easily. Don't pay attention to anything else. You don't need grease in and around the spacers - but it won't hurt anything.

http://www.canecreek.com/tech-headsets?view=video&video=HS Threadless Adjustment2.flv


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

The exact method depends on the type of bearings that are in the headset. Headsets like a Campy Record have caged balls and are not angular contact. They are much more sensitive to preload pressure from the top cap. Just a little too much will cause binding.

Modern integrated headsets have angular contact cartridge bearings and need a substantial preload force, that should make it impossible to turn the spacers. I apply enough pressure to the top cap bolt to deliberately create a little drag when fork is turned, then back the bolt up just enough to eliminate the drag.

Rocking the bike to feel for play does not work with integraed headsets. You may feel absolutely no play if you clamp the brakes and rock the bike, but while riding, you may hear a "thwack" sound if you hit a sharp mismatch in the road. If you hear that, the headset is too loose and it could damage the bearing seats in the frame.

If you've got the bearings too tight, it's obvious when you ride the bike. After turning a corner, the front wheel won't readily self-center without some help.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

That's the method I use to set the tension: If I can turn the spacers but it's hard to do, then it's good.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

C-40 said:


> Modern integrated headsets have angular contact cartridge bearings and need a substantial preload force, that should *make it impossible to turn the spacers*.


It doesn't. Try it.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*duh...*



rx-79g said:


> It doesn't. Try it.


If you put 3-5Nm of torque on a top cap, the spacers will not turn by hand. I have tried it, just today to be sure, but it's not something to pay any attention to. My spacer won't begin to turn by hand.

Any more dumb comments?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

C-40 said:


> If you put 3-5Nm of torque on a top cap, the spacers will not turn by hand. I have tried it, just today to be sure, but it's not something to pay any attention to. My spacer won't begin to turn by hand.
> 
> Any more dumb comments?


Yes. You must have really weak hands.

I have two Cane Creeks and Chris King, all perfectly adjusted. If you wrap your thumb and two fingers around the spacers and top of the headset and twist, they move with a little less force than opening the pickle jar.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

this should be good...


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

To be fair - this should be a competition between the same headsets and same spacers - friction could affect the results - then it's wrist action at dawn.


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## ssing20 (Aug 1, 2007)

rx-79g said:


> Yes. You must have really weak hands.
> 
> I have two Cane Creeks and Chris King, all perfectly adjusted. If you wrap your thumb and two fingers around the spacers and top of the headset and twist, they move with a little less force than opening the pickle jar.


Your Chris King headset is meaningless because they don't make an integrated HS. You don't mention if your two Crane Creeks are integrated (IS) or not. Anyway, on my integrated HS bikes, I cannot spin the spacers by hand when they are properly adjusted and it does take quite a bit of pre-load as C-40 mentioned.

With that said, I'd like to take a step back, grab a seat next to cxwrench and enjoy the fireworks. "Let's get ready to rumbllllleeeee..."


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I have a FSA ACB.. with 1cm CF spacers

so do I tighten until I feel some drag steering, and then back off?
No quacking sound when going over bumps..


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Here's cane creek's headset adjustment video, 

http://www.canecreek.com/tech-headsets?view=video&video=HS Threadless Adjustment2.flv

Chris King says the following:

"... Place stem cap on top of stem and insert screw through cap, threading into star nut. Tighten approx. 4-10 in.-lb. (Max. 15 in. lb.)..." 

10 in-lb is about 1.1 n-m. 

Whether you can turn your spacers or not might depend on a number of things. In my experience, carbon spacers seem to have a lot more face friction than aluminum spacers. etc..


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Here's another bomb for the fight:

On one particular bike I wrenched, the difference between too loose and binding was quite small. When 'just right', the spacers would move very easily. However, it'd knock on bad pavement, suggesting it was still a bit loose. But any tighter, and it'd bind. 

Solution: The HT faces were just a bit imperfect with a bit of paint. Pulled apart, cleaned up, and having the races seated firmly and square, and all was perfect. Now has a 'normal' range of adjustment, and no, the (aluminum) spacers don't move.


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