# DIY parts soaking recipe?



## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

As a winter project, I have finished tearing my bike down to the bare frame. The plan is to clean, lube and reassemble.

There are some parts, like the chain, front and rear derailleur, that I would like to soak in order to get to all the nooks and crannies.

Does anyone have any good DIY recipes for what to soak the parts in? It needs to be tough enough to dissolve the gunk without being so caustic that it damages softer parts like the rear pulleys.

Any suggestions?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Mineral spirits with some mineral spirits added. Mineral spirits are relatively safe compared to other solvents and leave just a touch of oil so everything doesn't rust.

Don't use gasoline - there is such a thing as too clean.

If you want to go eco, try a citrus degreaser.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

take the plastic pulleys off and clean them separately. You'll get the bushings cleaner that way, and no need to soak the plastic. Disassembly and re-assembly are easy.

Second the mineral spirits recommendation, though I kind of think the whole soaking routine is overkill unless things are really gunky. Whatever you use to clean, let things dry thoroughly, then re-lube thoroughly. Over-cleaned chains in particular can be dry in the little tight spaces where it really matters.


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## tjanson (Nov 11, 2006)

I use Simple Green - throw your chain in a bottle out of recycling and pour some simple green in. Shake it up, wait 15-30 minutes, add some hot water, shake it up, wait 15-30 minutes, rinse with hot water, voila!


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Kerosene will cut through oily and greasy grime very quickly and easily. It won't damage any plastic or rubber that is compatible with bike oil, grease, or chain lube.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

If you have really gunky stuff accumulated in the crevices, such as a rear derailleur, skip the soaking step and try non-chlorinated brake cleaner in the spray can. Works like a charm in 1/4 of the time. 

If you do want to soak, mineral spirits are the way to go (as others have already mentioned).


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## cyclust (Sep 8, 2004)

looigi said:


> Kerosene will cut through oily and greasy grime very quickly and easily. It won't damage any plastic or rubber that is compatible with bike oil, grease, or chain lube.


I second the kerosene! It works about the same as mineral spirits, but it's $4 a gallon instead of $15 like min spirits.


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## dysfunction (Apr 2, 2010)

cyclust said:


> I second the kerosene! It works about the same as mineral spirits, but it's $4 a gallon instead of $15 like min spirits.


Diesel fuel works too.. course when I used it, I just drained my fuel filter a bit. Still cheaper by the gallon than kerosene though. Works great on cosmoline too.


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## saf-t (Sep 24, 2008)

Kerosene is less volatile than mineral spirits, and also less flammable. Keep your soaking containers securely covered if they're inside.


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## fretking (Jan 7, 2002)

Whatever you choose, do yourself a favor and purchase a box of disposable nitrile gloves. They will keep the nasty stuff from absorbing into your skin!


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## Gee3 (Jan 31, 2006)

I second the Simple Green.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

IMO, water soluble solvents, those that dissolve oil and grease and mix them with water, is not necessarily the best. I don't want water to mix with my oil or grease. If the water soluble solvent can be completely rinsed away or will evaporate completely it's probably OK. In a chain it'd take a lot of rinsing to reliably get it out from the links. That's why I like to stick with solvents like kerosene.

BTW, kerosene, home heating oil, diesel, and even JP4 jet fuel are all basically the same thing with varying degrease of purity and/or additives. Kerosene intended for kerosene lamps usually doesn't smell quite as strongly/bad as the others.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Kerosene / home heating oil / diesel fuel does work very well, but leaves an oily film on the parts. While that oily film lubes a bit and protects against corrosion (and was one of the reasons race mechanics loved to use it), you may not want to see, feel or smell that film. If you want squeaky-clean, you need a solvent like mineral spirits. Of course, squeaky-clean ferrous parts + water = rust.


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## jwp3476 (Jun 22, 2010)

I have found that naptha (lighter fluid) will dissolve most gunk and will not leave a residue.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

jwp3476 said:


> I have found that naptha (lighter fluid) will dissolve most gunk and will not leave a residue.


Naptha (Coleman fuel or "white gas") is a strong solvent, and it evaporates very cleanly leaving little residue. As noted above by others, the absence of oily residue on parts that will be re-lubed is not necessarily a big abvantage, but if you want shiny clean it's a way to go.

The biggest drawback of Naptha is its high volatility and flammability. Use only with very good ventilation. It's also a little more expensive than some of the othe choices.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

JCavilia said:


> Naptha (Coleman fuel or "white gas") is a strong solvent, and it evaporates very cleanly leaving little residue. As noted above by others, the absence of oily residue on parts that will be re-lubed is not necessarily a big abvantage, but if you want shiny clean it's a way to go.
> 
> The biggest drawback of Naptha is its high volatility and flammability. Use only with very good ventilation. It's also a little more expensive than some of the othe choices.


And depending on how much one cares, it will likely take the painted logos off of deraillers, esp. if soaked.


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## testpilot (Aug 20, 2010)

Don't use gasoline, naphtha, white gas or Coleman fuel near a flame heated water heater or furnace. Their vapors are heavier than air and will sink to the floor and can light off when the heater fires up. 

I've found soaking a chain in solvent without agitating and scrubbing is counterproductive. The solvent dissolves the oil then the non-soluable dirt settles and sticks to the parts and becomes very difficult to remove. 

The best is Simple Green because it not only dissolves the oils, it also is a strong detergent which lifts the dirt and disperses it in the solution. Agitate and scrub then repeat with clean solution. Rinse with hot water and blow dry. Lubricate right away to prevent rusting. A 1/4 cup of Simple Green dissolved in a gallon of hot water also works great to wash down the frame. It won't damage the paint and it gets everything squeaky clean. Rinse thoroughly with hot water and dry. Use a good automotive wax and it'll look like new.


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## 19surf74 (Feb 1, 2009)

Rant here: I always read use this or that, etc..... Me, I just used dawn dishwashing detergent with some hot water. Let the part soak overnight, and voila ((((CLEAN)))) I did this just recently on my build and it was perfect! So, just use DAWN!


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## Dave IV (Jan 20, 2009)

Jesus Christ !, avoid all the flammable chemicals. The people recommending these things are begging for disaster to strike. Not only are gasoline , naphtha, kerosene flammable, but you should not be inhaling or letting these chemicals in contact with your skin.

This is the method I have been using for decades for my winter re-builds and it works very well:
1) I typically disassemble the component, then spray the pieces with WD-40. WD-40 is a wonderful solvent. 
2) Wipe all the parts with a rag. Then spray the parts with 409 or Simply Green and wash under hot water. 
3) If you have an air compressor you can blow the parts dry.
4) Then lubricate where needed and reassemble the component. I do this with all the components; brakes, derailleurs, etc.
5) For ball bearings, I lay the bearings on a rag, saturate with WD-40, fold the rag over the bearings. I then trap the folded rag, with the bearings captured inside, between the palm of my hand and the bench top and move my hand in a circular motion, causing the bearings to roll inside the rag. The bearings come out clean and shiny and ready for re-assembly..


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

tjanson said:


> I use Simple Green - throw your chain in a bottle out of recycling and pour some simple green in. Shake it up, wait 15-30 minutes, add some hot water, shake it up, wait 15-30 minutes, rinse with hot water, voila!


If you use Simple Green note that it's corrosive to aluminum and you need to rinse it off thoroughly and immediately.


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## Cbookman (Jul 2, 2009)

Dave IV said:


> Jesus Christ !, avoid all the flammable chemicals. The people recommending these things are begging for disaster to strike. Not only are gasoline , naphtha, kerosene flammable, but you should not be inhaling or letting these chemicals in contact with your skin.
> 
> This is the method I have been using for decades for my winter re-builds and it works very well:
> 1) I typically disassemble the component, then spray the pieces with WD-40. WD-40 is a wonderful solvent.


You say avoid flammable chemicals and then go on about WD-40? What do you think that will do to your skin?


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## dysfunction (Apr 2, 2010)

Cbookman said:


> You say avoid flammable chemicals and then go on about WD-40? What do you think that will do to your skin?


Yes, the irony of comparing petro-chemicals on flammability is there. Come to think of it, it's probably (mostly because I've seen people use it as a 'flame thrower') easier to ignite wd-40 than it is diesel or kerosene accidentally. Oh and it should go without saying.. wear gloves when handling any chemical. Petro-chemical or not.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Holy cow. What a bunch of moronic old ladies.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Kerosene.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Wow. This touched off more of a debate than I expected. Thanks, everyone for the suggestions, and especially for the rationales behind your suggestions. Those are very helpful.

I'm going to start with OMS and see how it does.


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## jrcll (Dec 28, 2010)

years of racing dirt bike enduro`s the one thing that really worked well for cleaning parts and no harsh chemicals was " murphys oil soap " it comes concentrated so just cut it with some water , put it in a spray bottle, walmart sells it


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

*Hey, guess what I learned?*

OMS freeze. 

Went out to the garage to pour some OMS and start soaking some parts. Popped the cap and went to pour and nothing came out. It was a solid frozen block. 

I brought the jug inside to let it thaw.


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## ClaytonT (Aug 23, 2009)

Simple Green. Biodegradable and non toxic. 

AND it does it a fantastic job.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

I used to work with an old timer that would rub WD-40 into his knees to ease his arthritis. I don't know if it worked, but I wasn't going to try it.


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## spudbiker (Mar 25, 2006)

OK - THAT is awesome


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