# Campagnolo Profit Pedal Bearing Replacement



## joeyb1000 (Feb 15, 2011)

A.	Layout
The axle assembly (starting at the crank) is made up of:
•Axle
•Rubber seal
•Threaded resin/aluminum end 
•Metal flange bushing
•9x17x5 bearing
•9x17x4 bearing
•12mm spacer
•7x17x5 bearing
•End nut

B.	Removing Axle.
For Profit+ pedals with the resin end, you need a 20mm combination wrench or 20mm long 12pt socket. For the original profit pedals with the aluminum end, you need a 21mm open end wrench. Unscrew the axle from the pedal. The right pedal is left hand thread, the left pedal is right hand thread. Hint: Finding a 20mm combination wrench was the hard part. Don’t bother with the hardware store, go directly to ebay.

C.	Removing the outside bearing
Remove the end nut. I pushed the 12mm spacer to the side and put 12mm worth of headset spacers in the other side. I supported that with a 17mm wrench, and supported the wrench on a vice. (PHOTO 1) Don’t be shocked by the photo – nothing is clamped in the vice. I tapped the axle out. One came out easily with one hit. The other was much harder. Hint: I screwed the end nut on backwards a few turns and used a center punch. The nut kept the punch from sliding off.

D.	Removing the inside bearings
I used an Ultra Torque bearing remover with a 14mm socket for spacing. (PHOTO 2). 

E.	Reassembly
1. Put the rubber seal on with the cone side facing the threaded end. 
2. Put on the threaded end. Make sure you put the correct one on each axle.
3. Metal flange bushing.
4. 9x17x5 bearing. Buy one with rubber seals and leave the one facing the crank. I used a 3/8 id bushing from the hardware store to drive the bearing. Warning: If you go until the bearing stops, you will be about ½ mm too far. You have to go exactly 4 + 12 = 18 mm.
5. Add the 9x17x4 bearing, no seals. 
6. 12 mm spacer. Hint: If the spacer does not line up perfectly with the ridge for the outside bearing, stop. That spacer needs to be able to slide side to side, but with almost no space between it and the bearings.
7. Put on the 7x17x5 bearing with a 5/16 id bushing, then the end nut.

Comments:
• I packed the bearings with Phil Wood grease.
• I damaged the edges of the spacer on one pedal and had to do a lot of filing in order to get it back in the pedal.
• In general, I don’t think it was worth the work. Even though the pedals are 10 years old, there was only a little bit of play in one of them. The bearings were in very good shape after I got to look at them. So, unless the bearings are really shot, I wouldn’t bother with all this – but read my next point.
• Because you can push the spacer aside, greasing the bearings is very easy without removing them.


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## 1Butcher (Mar 15, 2011)

Got bearing numbers?


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## joeyb1000 (Feb 15, 2011)

The numbers on the Campy bearings are 619/7, 618/9 and 628/9-z. I could never find anything with those codes. For the outer bearing I used a 697, the code on the inner two are both 689. It is easier to search on places like Boca using the size.


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## 1Butcher (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks, many people have asked. I did this several years ago when I was building a tandem. I purchased several used/worn out Profit pedals so I can get the right spindles to match the right crank threading. I never wrote down the numbers but I know I never spent a lot of money on the bearings.


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