# Many questions from a noob



## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Hello, I'm sure you experienced folks will just roll your eyes, but I gotta start somewhere. My name is Mike, I'm looking into getting a road bike for the purpose of fitness. I'm 5'7", 51 @ 220 lbs. I reside in Sopkane, Washington. First off, in reading the countless post, is the a thread that explains the acronyms? The words that are highlighted in blue don't always explain what the word is. Speaking to a shop person, he was really pushing the carbon forks over aluminum because our roads here aren't "race track" smooth. Any truth to that, because it adds $$$ to how much I was looking to spend. Also, the smooth road tires vs. the slightly nobbie tires. I'm a bit heavier (gym rat) than the guys I see riding around locally, should I be looking at a bike a bit sturdier? I have more questions, but I'm excited about this new adventure.


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

Generally, Carbon parts are slightly smoother then aluminum, but something like a Cannondale CAAD aluminum frame is known for a very smooth ride while many carbon aero frames can be rather rough riding. The key is to ride the bike and get a feel for it. At 220lbs the only possible issue will be with wheels. On rough roads, super lightweight, or low cost wheels may need trueing regularly but a well made wheel should hold up fine. Consider larger tires, perhaps 25mm or even 28mm if they fit into the frame & fork. The larger tires allow for lower pressure and also give a smoother ride. Not sure what bikes your looking at but you should be able to find a great, reliable bike for under $1000.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Firstly 220# is not huge by any means. Most if not all road bikes you look at should be OK for that.

Carbon forks are pretty ubiquitous nowadays. I'd trust them over Al. The more common alternative is steel.

If it's commonly wet in your area, I'd be looking for a bike that can accommodate fenders, and wider tires - at least 28mm. Tread is not important for road riding.

Most importantly, the bike has to fit you well, so I'd suggest reading up a little on that subject, and find a bike shop that's not just trying to unload stock, but is prepared to give you a proper fit session.

You don't say what your budget is. That might help.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

If you want a race bike, there are fenders that will fit without dedicated fender mounts or P clips. Crudracer and SKS Raceblade are two. They do not have as good coverage as full fenders but are much better than no fenders.

The fork is one place where material seems to make a difference. The carbon fork will not provide suspension or change the response much on large or sharp edge bumps but can damp some high frequency vibration, such as you'd get from riding on chip seal. It's not a big deal but in my experience it is noticeable.

Nowhere in the country has "race track smooth" roads except actual race tracks. Yet many people ride race bikes for long rides on them without issues.

Because tires for two wheel vehicles are rounded in cross section rather than square, hydroplaning on water is essentially impossible. Especially with narrow road bike tires. 

So they don't need big voids between tread blocks to shed water like car tires do. Small sipes or even a slick tire work fine in the wet. It's the rubber compound that determines traction on wet pavement. There is a significant difference between tires. Very generally, higher quality tires have better traction in the wet.

Of the tires I have tried, Continential GP4000s tires have about the best wet traction. They also last much longer than other race tires.


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks for the quick reply. Can anyone give an answer about accroynms? When I read post it nags me that I don't fully understand exactly what is written. Initially, I wanted to spend under $400. My brother in law bought his Specialized and accessories for over $1000 and now it sits because he doesn't have time to ride. I don't want to start out with that kind of fear. Amazon Vilano Forge 4.0 ($400+/-) is a consideration. Although, the bike shops could get me into a Jamis ($550) or a Specialized ($780) for an entry level. A bit more than I wanted to spend, and Wal-Mart isn't really an option, I'd like to be a bit more serious about this. 

I'm planning to be a fair-weather rider until I can get in better shape and experience. We don't get a lot of rain here unlike my coastal friends in Seattle, but the tire suggestions will help in after market purchases. 

We have a lot of hills in my local area when I want to ride. I see hills as a challenge to improve cardio and fitness. the bikes I looked at go anywhere from 14 to 27 gears, 8 or 9 cassettes(sp) in the rear. Is there a preference i should be aiming for?


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

You might find some help with general abbreviations commonly used here. Post #20 may be the most helpful. Some of what you see is OEM specific (DA, SR, etc.), some are part specification (e.g., SPD, SPD-SL for two common shoe cleat styles).


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## Sanders (May 13, 2013)

Maybe if youcould sum up some of the terms you are having trouble with we could explain them directly, in stead of dishing out the entire dictionary here 

In addition: with a $ 400 budget you might also take a look at the second hand market.
Downside is: your choices are limited 
Upside: you can get a lot more bike for the same value.

Especially in the area of the groupset, where a 10 speed 105 or better would be an awesome thing to have.
For beginners in a hilly area a triple set-up might also be something to consider, although if you allready work out you would have the endirance and leg power to do with a double in combination with a 11-28 cassette.

For the pricerange you're looking at I'd skip a carbon fork. 
Yes it does damp vibrations somehwhat, but for a beginner a Al fork would do just fine, your money is better spend in upgrading stock tyres or saddle (if the fit isn't just right).


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Here's a decent looking deal. Triple crank. Shimano 105 bits. $799. You just need to figure out the correct size. Try an online fit calculator.



> Nashbar 105 Road Bike
> 
> FRAME: 700C Double-butted aluminum 6061 with double water bottle mounts, tapered headtube and TT internal brake routing
> FORK: Full Carbon tapered steer tube 1.5 to 1 1/8"
> ...



Nashbar 105 Road Bike


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

How serious? A sturdy hybrid will burn calories plenty well, maybe better in some cases, and can be picked up cheap on CL or some other used market and easily sized for comfort. If you are interested in entering road cycling, you should know going in that it is an expensive sport. Consider buying new from a shop willing to stick with you and fit you and help out with questions and gear. Speaking of gear, expect a big investment in helmet, pedals, shoes, tights, pump, etc... 

The key to using a bike for fitness is the same as the key to using the gym or anything else... You have to use it! Running is cheap. Getting into road biking isn't... It's a great and exciting sport, just be realistic and triple your entry budget, you will be happier in the long run!


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## obed (Jan 12, 2014)

agreed that $400 is not a realistic figure for getting a decent road or fitness bike.
A carbon fork is nice but is not something you actually need. Figure more in the $1000 for the bike and another few hundred for helmet, shorts, jersey, pedals and shoes...oh and gloves...consider lights front and rear, pump or c02, spare tube and road side tools and tool bag and maybe a rear view mirror. also get a good fitter to fit the bike to you, this will add some bucks if you need a different stem or seat etc. this will help assure that the bike is comfortable and will actually get ridden. brand is not as important as fit, so go to a local bike shop than can support you down the road and buy from them.


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## DrAstro (Jul 24, 2013)

I'd suggest a Giant Defy 5. It's $600 but is a good value for an entry level bike. You will also need to budget around 100-200 more for accessories like a helmet, flat kit and possibly pedals and shoes that clip in.


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## marc7654 (Jun 24, 2014)

Check Craigs list in your area. I think you'll find something that might work as a starter bike. Here's an example. Cannondale T800 Road / Touring bicycle - size 53cm Local Bike shops will have used bikes too and be willing to set you up to get going. Or try to get your brother in-laws bike from him for 400.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

At your wt & strength, you will need a good bike to start, otherwise it will require a lot of adjustment & have problems if ridden real hard.


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## Sundog (Sep 25, 2013)

I would wager a tidy sum that a rather large portion of the fitness minded folks who think they want to be cyclists - but end up not being cyclists end up that way because the don't bother to spend the money it takes to get a bike that fits them. They end up not being able to overcome the discomfort. 

Bikes seem like simple machines - but they are not really complete machines - until you attach the motor (you). If only it were as easy as straddling the top tube to see if there was clearance between it and your junk as you stood flat footed. Believe me/us that it is not. Your chance of loving the sport increase dramatically with a pro fitted bike.

Cycling is like a lot of things. If it is made to be comfortable - then you can get better at it. When you get better at things - the enjoyment tends to go up, exponentially - it seems. 

As far as being worried about spending money and having no time to ride - keep in mind that cycling is a very efficient way to exercise (from a calories burnt per time spent perspective). The real time thief with cycling - is shopping for upgrades or the next bike, once you are hooked!

I'd spend a grand or so on an alloy frame (it's going to come with a carbon fork - they almost all do) that is on closeout at a shop that knows how to do a fit. You'll likely end up with 10 speed Tiagra or 105/Apex (on a really good deal). Try to get the fit session thrown in. Realize that you may have to change a part or two as a result of the fit. Buy that part from the guy doing your fit. Buy your shoes/pedals from him and I bet he sets them up during your fit for you as well. 

Good luck with your fitness goals. Cycling really helped me with mine.


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Wow, a lot of good info to consider. I will start writing down the acronyms I don't understand. I hear a lot of talk about the Shimano 105? What is it and is it really important when starting out as a beginner? I'm staring to realize the $400 mark isn't very realistic. 

Thanks for the heads up marc7654. Yakima is a few hours away, but this kind of deal looks to be pretty good and worth the drive. tossed my brother in law that bone and he didn't bite, he even suggested going riding with me. I think I made him feel guilty for letting his good bike sit and collect dust.


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## Rip Van Cycle (Jun 11, 2012)

Mike3387 said:


> I'm staring to realize the $400 mark isn't very realistic.


Yeah, for people like you and me, i.e.: folks on the other side of age 50- and away from the avocation for years (or decades), the apparent 'sticker-shock' is one of those psychological barriers to overcome. The larger point is- if you expect that you'll like cycling once again-- I mean _really_ like it, then dropping a grand or so on a well-made Aluminum-alloy bike, along with your apparel, accoutrements, etc. will be something where you'd 'call-it-a-bargain... the-best-[you]'ve-ever-had!'

So- find a good Aluminum-alloy bike from a reputable producer/manufacturer, one that _fits you well_, from a shop that's known to give good service (so that you don't have to immediately learn DIY maintenance and service at the same time you're re-learning fitness-oriented cycling) and ride energetically and often.


Mike3387 said:


> I hear a lot of talk about the Shimano 105? What is it and is it really important when starting out as a beginner?


Shimano 105 is a group-set-- and it's one of the many options available concerning your gearing and shifting assembly. I have Shimano 105 on my primary ride- and I can't say anything bad about it. However, a more budget-oriented option certainly isn't a deal-breaker. My (secondary) Aluminum-alloy bike has a Sora-Tiagra group-set... and I've done half-a-dozen "centuries" [100 mile rides] on that machine.


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks Rip Van Cycle (cool name BTW). Yes, the initial sticker shock still makes my pulse quicken a bit. Kinda funny, when I visit bike shops, look at the price tags before I look at the bike. I really hope my enthusiasm will last through the first few weeks of pain of learning to ride on those little seats. There is a bit of jealousy when I see a pack of riders going by. Seeing them more frequently makes me think that the sport is gaining popularity and I'm missing out on some fun.


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## DrAstro (Jul 24, 2013)

Shimano 105 is the type of shifters and gears on the bike. It's basically a name for the pieces that make up your bike's drivetrain. 

105 is, in my opinion, overkill for a beginner. I think any of the named Shimano levels would be fine. As you go up in levels, the pieces get a little lighter and perhaps shift a little more smoothly. A well-tuned lower level component set will work just fine for the majority of people.

The lowest level would be called Shimano Claris. My wife's bike (a Giant Defy 5) has this and it shifts just fine. Next up is Shimano Sora. My bike has this. Many would say it's crap and you need a minimum of 105 level. Daily commuting this year (4500 miles) and it's still working great for me. Shifts nice and smooth. My personal experience, therefore, says the cheaper component levels (Claris and Sora) are great. Go up one more level and you have Tiagra, then comes 105. 

Trickle down is another consideration when picking components. Lower level components benefit from trickle down where this years Sora is basically the same as Tiagra from a few years ago. This years Tiagra is 105 from a couple of years ago. The nice components of yesterday become the budget components of today. This is why I think that any of the budget Shimano components I mentioned would suit you well. They aren't actually budget, they're top of the line from a few years ago!

I am not saying you shouldn't get a higher component bike, but you also shouldn't be scared to NOT get 105. Claris and Sora (the "budget" options) are GREAT and will give you thousands of miles of fun. By the time you can notice the difference you should be hooked enough that you'll have saved enough to buy another nicer bike (the rule of N+1, where the correct number of bikes to own is one greater than the number you currently have).


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Now I understand, in basic terms, what I'm looking at and making better decisions while looking at bikes. Can I also assume Shimano is the better company for these parts? I hear a lot about them because of the name's popularity. If a bike has this then I'm assuming getting parts would be easier as well. Some ads mention the chain, and I never would have thought this would make a difference. I'm thinking it would be over-kill to worry about the actual chain detail.


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## Sanders (May 13, 2013)

You have three mayor groupset or gearshift producers:
Schimano, Campagnolo and SRAM.
Shimano and SRAM share some compatability whilst Campagnolo is a totally different fitting.

None of these are better than the other per se, it's just your own preference.
If you're a beginner, you haven't really got any option but to just pick one and try it out.
If you can't compare them next to each other I doubt you will notice a significant difference as a newbie, and they will all get you rolling equally good. Except for the shifter geometry, which again: is just your personal preference.

Within brands components can be mixed to create a set that has the perfomance were it matters.
For instance: if going with Shimano, you could opt for '105' or even Ultegra shifters, front and rear derailleur. Combined with Tiagra brakes, cassette, crankset and chain.
A lot of bike producers use the same method on their entry level bikes to keep costs low while still presenting a slightly smoother machine.

IMO parts like the chain and cassette do matter of course, but a Shimano Tiagra is just as good as the two levels up Ultegra counterpart. Except a little heavier (we're talking about a couple grams here).
Nothing for you to worry about at this point. Maybe if your next bike will be a Dura Ace top of the line build, you start thinking about the exact right chain choice.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Mike3387 said:


> Thank you, thank you, thank you. Now I understand, in basic terms, what I'm looking at and making better decisions while looking at bikes. Can I also assume Shimano is the better company for these parts? I hear a lot about them because of the name's popularity. If a bike has this then I'm assuming getting parts would be easier as well. Some ads mention the chain, and I never would have thought this would make a difference. I'm thinking it would be over-kill to worry about the actual chain detail.


Excellent! Now you can really start to think about what bike to buy! Keep in mind, red bikes are the fastest. CAAD8 Sora 7 - CAAD8 - ELITE ROAD - ROAD - BIKES - 2015

I started out this year with that bike. I have 1,600+ miles on it in my first year and it's doing great. It's been on the ground a few times and seems just fine for the wear. A Cannondale CAAD 8 with a Sora group set (all the mechanical components). It's aluminum with a carbon fork. That's what you will find at the entry level for a good road bike. And for real, they are all going to perform about the same. Now that the sticker shock has had a chance to settle in (thanks Rip) pick a shop you like as much as a bike. The fit everyone mentions is as huge in importance as folks are making it out to be. So is having a good trusted LBS (local bike shop). Especially since you may looking at another bike this time next year!!


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## Sundog (Sep 25, 2013)

In September '13 - I was a slightly out of shape road cyclist wanna be - shopping for my first road bike. I (probably needlessly) was a little worried about adapting to the operation of road bike shifters. The only ride that I ever owned with indexed shifting was a '94 GT Tequesta Mountain bike - with STX shifters/drive.

One of the first things that I did was A/B a 105 equipped bike and an Apex equipped bike - to settle the question in my mind (as a _nearly _blank slate - with no preconceived bias) as to which platform made the most sense to me - from an operational standpoint. 

While both systems operated fine - there was a clear winner in which was more intuitive for me - so I went with that company - and shopped for the rest of the bike from the perspective that I wanted to operate that one particular system. 

If the company that I like went away tomorrow - there is no doubt in my mind that I'd just pick one of the remaining two and pedal on - for my next ride. Like I said - fretting over the choice was probably a little unnecessary up front. You will adapt to whatever you pick - and likely form a brand bias surrounding your choice. 

If you like the way Shimano works - you will have significantly more choices available to you. There just are not that many SRAM equipped road bikes rolling off the lines these days - and there have not been for two model years now. Cannondale seems to be the last hold out offering full range of both.

Campy is nearly impossible to find in my town - so I didn't even consider that option.


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## DrAstro (Jul 24, 2013)

To make life even more confusing, you might also want to try steel bikes too. I notice that they ride a little more smoothly than aluminum bikes. You may try a steel bike and decide that "steel is real". A Jamis Quest would be a good starter...


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## NoCoGreg (Jan 3, 2015)

Mike, a few more thots on your situation…
in the price range you're starting, the parts and frames will be plenty robust. Should you fall in love with cycling and start looking at the ultra light race bikes for $5,000 and up, then you should start checking weight limits as there are parts not recommended for folks over 180 or 200 pounds. Again, these parts are high end ultra light weight and extremely expensive.

General rule of bike parts - lighter weight will wear out faster. The new 11spd chains and cogs are narrower than 10spd which is narrower and lighter than 9spd, etc. The 11spd stuff will last just fine if one keeps it clean and lubed. The 9 spd chains and cogs can be abused more and will wear less. Similarly the 23c skinny race tires are much more susceptible to flats and wear faster than wider 25c and 28c tires.

The general advice I give for people getting into cycling is to get what you need and then fix what hurts. For example, inexpensive shorts are fine for short rides, but one may find at 40 miles the shorts are rubbing some sensitive parts in some wrong and painful ways. Time for new shorts. Similarly one can start with running shoes or inexpensive cycling shoes, but as one rides longer distances one might get foot "hot spots". A rigid sole shoe will fix this. Wool and synthetic fabrics wick moisture. 

Craigslist is great for finding bargains but unless you have a friend who can assist in determining the proper fit and condition of the used bicycles I would suggest a LBS (Local Bike Shop) would be a better option. IMO fit is more important than frame/fork material, parts, etc. If the bike doesn't fit at best it'll be slow and inefficient, but bad fit can adversely impact handling and likely will be uncomfortable and cause bad pains in one's knees, hands, neck, or back. A good shop will spend time to position you properly and will swap stems and seat posts. The same advice goes for buying on-line as buying used, of you have a friend who can guide you to select the proper size then go for it. But don't be surprised to find yourself swapping parts to dial in the fit. 

Cheers,
Greg


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Interesting. I was at another bike shop yesterday and they sold primarily steel bikes (Jamis). Really liked the guy because he wasn't pushing a bike sale on me and he had a lot of experience with the local area, road conditions and such. Very impressed with him and the bike. He was willing to fit me right there at no charge. We just got more snow today, so a test ride was out of the question, however, would putting the bike in a stand and have me pedal be a good way to fit me. Not really sure how it's done. I am convinced that this is the right time to shop for a bike, the shops aren't busy and can take the time to answer my questions.


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## marc7654 (Jun 24, 2014)

Wish I'd had this thread to refer to when I started out. All good accurate info here. And if someone like me gives you bad advice then everyone else will point it out. :blush2:

Another set of terms you may start to hear will be the bewildering sub categories of road bikes. Race, Track, Aero, Triathlon, Time Trial, Endurance, Touring, bla, bla, etc... Giant and Specialized do a decent job of listing the types on their web sites. For the most part if you like the way the bike fits you then it's the right bike regardless of it's so called purpose. However Endurance and Touring bikes are likely more suited to the general rider. These kinds of bikes are suppose to have a geometry and stiffness/compliance that's better suited to longer rides and have a more relaxed rider position. You may feel cramped on a "Race" bike, it might feel too short. It will also be more stiff although you might not really notice until you ride it a lot. On the flip side an Endurance bike may feel too long or stretched out. How you feel riding the bike is the important part. If the shop lets you ride the bike for more than 10 minutes you'll be more likely to find the potential fit problems. Very often any fit problems can be adjusted away. So a cheep bike from a good shop that's willing to work with you on the fit is better than a more expensive bike from a shop that pushes you out the door.

You may have to pay something to get a good fit/setup. A free fit, which any bike shop should do, will get your seat set to about the right position so it's not too hight or low and moved froward or back to get you knee in the generally right place over the pedals.

$100 should get you a relatively good fit where they put your bike on a trainer, measure a few things while you sit on the bike then adjust them. Then they let you ride it on the trainer to see how it fits then adjust a few more things. They should also say if stem that connects the handlebars to the steer tube should be longer, shorter, higher, lower or just right. Then they should let you ride the bike out on the roads and adjust it according to your feedback. Some shops will do this fit for free, particulars if you spend a lot on the bike.

If you pay more than $100 for the fit you should get all of the above and a full on camera evaluation with a computer to get exactly the right geometry plus a lot more. You don't really need this kind of fit evaluation for a first bike. If you spend $2K or more on the bike then maybe you would want to do this kind of fit.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Sanders said:


> You have three mayor groupset or gearshift producers:Schimano, Campagnolo and SRAM.
> 
> None of these are better than the other per se, it's just your own preference.


No! not true! I read all the time on the internets Campy is the only good one, and the others are paperweights, garbage etc.


He has to learn this aspect about cycling too you know. 


[Send me your garbage please, Especially your Dura Ace garbage...]


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

How would I know if I'm getting good shorts or not? What am I looking for, besides style and color? Because I'm a bit bigger (220#), would the wider tires be a better choice for me? These bikes all seem so light, but I'm thinking nothing less than 25# should be able to withstand my weight for a longer period of time without frequent tune-ups.


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## Sundog (Sep 25, 2013)

Mike3387 said:


> He was willing to fit me right there at no charge.


He was probably willing to _size _you for free. _Fitting _is a different thing that involves an investment in time. In most cases - an hour or two. 

The two terms get tossed around fairly interchangeably. It is important to be clear what he is offering.

Sizing is a gross assessment on which size of a given model will work for you - and fittiing is a fine tuning process that may involve adjustment and/or replacement of parts.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Mike3387 said:


> How would I know if I'm getting good shorts or not? What am I looking for, besides style and color? Because I'm a bit bigger (220#), would the wider tires be a better choice for me? These bikes all seem so light, but I'm thinking nothing less than 25# should be able to withstand my weight for a longer period of time without frequent tune-ups.


Shorts; read reviews, spend a little extra on well received/reviewed shorts maybe. Gel pad shorts generally do not breath as well, although better after lots of wash cycles. I tend to not use them in the warmer seasonal periods myself. I never spend less that 50.00 on shorts, and that would be the sale price. Having a few pairs will not cost you more and probably less in the long run.

Tires; Unless you really wind up with a full on road race machine you will probably not have too much to worry about the first tires.

The tires will all withstand your weight. You may wear them out faster is all. If you are going to go out and not get into zoom mode continually, lighter faster might be desired. A little bigger and heavier tire will net you more miles, definitely more miles per dollar. I only buy sale tire personally. I should say buy good tires when they are on good sale/discounts.

Bigger=more comfortable. Usually less air pressure.


ASK your LBS if maybe he could set up the bike on a stationary trainer for you to pedal on the bike in question. If he is not busy, and with snow outside probably not busy... I bet you may be offered this...

If you start spending his time, don't be afraid to buy a [on sale?] helmet so he knows you are not wasting his time maybe. You are going to likely use/need it soon!


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Thanks for the insight. An hour or two? Sizing must have been his offer and I told him I could come back when I made a decision. Now that I know the difference, I'll plan my schedule accordingly. I can't imagine what would take an hour or two, but I would like to think that after going through that, it would truly be "my bike".


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## Sundog (Sep 25, 2013)

Mike3387 said:


> Thanks for the insight. An hour or two? Sizing must have been his offer and I told him I could come back when I made a decision. Now that I know the difference, I'll plan my schedule accordingly. I can't imagine what would take an hour or two, but I would like to think that after going through that, it would truly be "my bike".


When you buy the bike - they'll toss in some sort of fit. It won't take much time. 

Go ride the bike for a hundred or hundred and a half miles or so - paying attention to all the discomforts that you experience. 

Then schedule a dedicated fit with the good pro fitter in your town. Pay for it. Free fits are usually worth exactly what you pay for them.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

When I told you this is an expensive sport? Bibs/shorts is the beginning. Nothing fits you like it fits me. OK, to set an example, in wine buying, there is cheap wine (sub 15), expensive wine (+35) and medium priced wine (the obvious middle)... (Assuming you know what you are doing) cheap wines that you "like" are about faults you can tolerate. Expensive wines you "like" are about properties in that wine that make it worth the money TO YOU. Medium priced wines should be a good reflection of that varietal, vintage and region no matter... So your preferences are irrelevant. You like that good example or not? It's a good reflection of the wine typically produced from those grapes in that place in these weather conditions... 

Enter chamois. Shorts or bibs? Now we are getting ready to drop coin. I have nothing good to say Mike... Spend and try. Everything else you can price control pretty carefully even if road cycling is like a cocaine habit. And it kind of is... But you are just going to have to buy and lose. Try again. Lose. Try...

if this is useful, it's what my similar noob self learned... Buy small. You want the chamois up against your parts not hanging like an ill-fitting diaper. Even if the whole thing is diaper-esque. Get bibs. Really. I've been there. Get bibs that pull up on that diaper so it's snug into your parts. SNUG. 

Lube your parts. There are plenty of options. I suspect they are close to equal. Lube. Chamois ALWAYS goes directly against you. No inbetweens. None. 

Please KEEP asking questions!!!! We will keep giving you marginally useful advice!


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## milkbaby (Aug 14, 2009)

To Mike3387, you may want to Google for local cycling clubs and try to find out from members what bike shops near you are reputable full service shops. It sounds like everybody here is steering you towards race oriented road bikes, however many people get into shape riding mountain/trail bikes or hybrid bikes (look sorta like trail bikes but usually without suspension or knobby tires). If you're planning on riding pavement instead of off & road, then a trail bike is not your best choice obviously.

There are some advantages to riding a drop bar road bike (the ones with handlebars that curl downwards in a half circle), but many people ride quite far on flat handlebar bikes as well. The biggest thing as noted, is you want a bicycle that fits your body proportions, and with the lack of knowledge that you have, it's best for trustworthy and knowledgeable bike shop staff to help you find the appropriate size bike.

If you're looking to spend $400 on a bike, your best bet is a good hybrid bike or a used drop bar road bike. Some shops do offer a selection of used bikes.

I personally think it's best not to get caught up in spending a lot of money right off the bat for something you may not enjoy. I have bikes that ranged in price from under $200 to $10000. I can get just as good a workout on el cheapo as on the prize jewel. And to be honest, I also get about 95% of the enjoyment of riding the most expensive bike out of riding the cheap one.


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## Rip Van Cycle (Jun 11, 2012)

robt57 said:


> Tires; Unless you really wind up with a full on road race machine you will probably not have too much to worry about the first tires.


Except that...

I'd recommend robust tires for a new rider (or even an experienced rider in higher-population areas)- at least until a rider develops that preternatural ability to spot a fleck of glass while barrelling down the road at over 20mph. Not many things can kill a new rider's enthusiasm for the sport more quickly that flatting every other ride. This is close to literally what happened to me 3-4 years ago... until I got wise and swapped out to kevlar-belted tires.


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Kevlar belted tires. Didn't know there was such a thing. I will look to invest in those soon. I am mechanically inclined (airplane mechanic) but fixing flats every other ride or even once a month would definitely curb my enthusiasm. Thanks for the tip, I'll add that to my growing shopping list.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

You are doing the right thing. Ask questions at the store and here. You will find many of the answers that you seek. I would consider two things before I get into the meat of it:
1) Most shops will "sell" you on what they sell. (Most bikes from a shop are good quality bikes. Don't worry about the brand so much)
2) Most advice on these forums is good but keep in mind that most of us are junkies. Disregard the piss on Ford/Chevy advice. Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM are all good. So is Microshift for that matter. In your price range there is little fluctation. 

You really have two options. Go the used route or pay a little more than budgeted and go the new route. I would recommend a new bike, even though it costs a little more. You will get a standard fitting and they will make sure that you get the right sized bike. This is important and will make or break your experience. You can learn your size with an online calculator and go used. If so, pay a shop $50 to fit you. It is well worth it.
Some bikes and places to consider:
Giant Defy 6 $600 at most local shops that carry Giant
Fuji Sportif C $449 at Performance Bike. (Online or in a shop if you have one near you.)
Felt Z95 is probably at a local shop in your range.
Raleigh Revino 1.0 at a local shop or at ericsbikeshop.com
Trek 1.1 at a local shop

There are probably many others but these few come to mind. Go to the shop and see what they have. They probably have $1000 bikes as that is a popular range. Set your budget and go in.
If you buy at a local store they may or may not toss in a helmet. They will give you pedals. Buy a cheap pair or shorts and you are ready. You truly don't need to buy a jersey, cleats, pedals and gloves until you start riding longer rides and get more comfortable. The sport does not have to be as expensive as some of us like to portray it. I play tennis, run and bike. Two rackets, balls, multiple shoes per year, multiple stringing jobs per year and my club dues make tennis far more expensive. Running costs me more per year, as I wear more clothes and I go through 5 pairs of shoes per year. Don't even get me started on golfing, fishing or hunting. This sport is expensive up front but after that it is nominal.


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

Interesting you mentioned the other bike models. I have two more shops in my local area I want to visit, and they carry the brands you mentioned. I had assumed those brands would be out of my price range, but now I see that some shops have last years models for a discounted price, which would be closer to the range I wanted to spend. I wasn't going to consider them, until now. Thank you. I know this sparks debates, but the difference between a steel vs. aluminum vs. aluminum/carbon and they appear to be close to the same price ($500-600). The real difference would be in the accessories, I guess. I'm really looking for something durable, that won't lock me into something thats hard to find parts for and if I have to spend a little more, so be it.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

Mike3387 said:


> I know this sparks debates, but the difference between a steel vs. aluminum vs. aluminum/carbon and they appear to be close to the same price ($500-600). The real difference would be in the accessories, I guess. I'm really looking for something durable, that won't lock me into something thats hard to find parts for and if I have to spend a little more, so be it.


I can't profess to know much about steel bikes as they are old school. Most entry level bikes are aluminum with a carbon fork. This is probably where your better deals are. Check the local shops for last years models. Deals are out there if you have some patience.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Shuffleman said:


> I can't profess to know much about steel bikes as they are old school. Most entry level bikes are aluminum with a carbon fork. This is probably where your better deals are. Check the local shops for last years models. Deals are out there if you have some patience.


I guess I'm old school; all my bikes are steel. Actually, I'm old.

The right advice for a noob seeking an inexpensive entry-level bike is to ignore frame material. They all work, and the differences between them aren't big enough to worry about at that level. Look at bikes in your price range, take them on decent length test rides, and buy one that feels good, regardless of what the tubes are made of.


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## ScooterDobs (Nov 26, 2010)

I was in a similar spot 4 years ago, 48 years old, 190# at 5'8" and cholesterol levels on the rise. The difference between us is that I wasnt a gym rat, just fat! I hadn't ridden in almost 20 years and didn't want to sink a lot of money into something I may not stick with. I looked at various sizing specs and figured I'd fit a 54cm (medium) frame and went on Craigslist. I found a used Giant OCR3, 4 years old, for $350. It was their entry level bike with what some would say are crappy components. I figured I'd upgrade if I stuck with it. I've put 5000 miles on the bike and only changed out the chain. I also really like the bike, it fits me well, and don't see any reason to upgrade anymore. I don't want to be a racer, just in shape enough to do a couple century (100 mi) rides a year and it's worked out beautifully. Like you I got a lot of input from this forum on the extra gear needed to ride. I'd say, total, I've spent $1000 on the bike, jerseys, shorts, tools, tires, tubes, patches, lubricants, and tune ups. Weight is down almost 40# and cholesterol down 75 points. Cheaper than Lipitor I'm sure. You can do it for not a pile of money to start with. If you do go used it is worth it to go to a local shop and get a full fit for the bike. I did it the old fashioned way and screwed with things until nothing hurt. Biking does not equal pain other than conditioning your butt to the saddle which takes a few rides.

If something other. Even your but should quit hurting after a couple weeks of riding


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## Mike3387 (Jan 3, 2015)

ScooterDobs, that inspiring and encouraging. I'm hoping I can get similar results. Thank you. JCavilia, I was just wondering, if you've tried riding other bike frame materials, and your opinion. It could have been a sales pitch, but the Jamis salesman was explaining that with our bad roads, the steel frame rides a bit smoother. Steel is not the popular choice these days, but popularity isn't important to me.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Mike3387 said:


> ScooterDobs, that inspiring and encouraging. I'm hoping I can get similar results. Thank you. JCavilia, I was just wondering, if you've tried riding other bike frame materials, and your opinion. It could have been a sales pitch, but the Jamis salesman was explaining that with our bad roads, the steel frame rides a bit smoother. Steel is not the popular choice these days, but popularity isn't important to me.


My opinion is as expressed above: it doesn't make much difference. A given steel frame may be "smoother" than a given alu frame (but not necessarily), but tires -- specifically their size and pressure -- make vastly more difference. At your weight, the thing to do is get large enough tires (at least 25 mm, but larger if the frame will fit them) and run the lowest pressure that will reliably prevent pinch flats. 

Yes, that was sales talk. Not necessarily untrue, but mostly irrelevant.

Bottom line: ignore frame material in making your choice. Buy the bike that feels and fits best among those you can afford.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

JCavilia said:


> I guess I'm old school; all my bikes are steel. Actually, I'm old.
> 
> The right advice for a noob seeking an inexpensive entry-level bike is to ignore frame material. They all work, and the differences between them aren't big enough to worry about at that level. Look at bikes in your price range, take them on decent length test rides, and buy one that feels good, regardless of what the tubes are made of.


I'm not exactly a spring chicken either. There is nothing wrong with old school. If you are not racing than you are correct. The material is not that important. His price range would most likely be aluminum though since there is more of a market for it there tend to be more deals around. Either way, he will be fine as long as the bike is a good fit. A good deal is not a good deal if the bike is the wrong size. I have a neighbor who bout a used bike from another of his Dr. friends for $3k. It has Dura Ace and carbon aero wheels. He has been through 5 saddles and swears off the sport because of the small seats. I keep telling him to go to the lbs and get a good fit. He says that he did and they told him that he bike was far too big for him. He thinks it was a sales push. In the end, he is not riding and it sits in the garage because he bought a "deal" instead of the right fit.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Shuffleman said:


> he will be fine as long as the bike is a good fit. A good deal is not a good deal if the bike is the wrong size.


Absolutely true. There's some adjustment range available with saddle height and stem length and height, so there's a little frame-size range you can live with, but if a bike is really the wrong size, it won't be a good experience.



> I keep telling him to go to the lbs and get a good fit. He says that he did and they told him that he bike was far too big for him


.

They're likely telling him the truth. $3000 for a used bike -- sounds like your neighbor has more money than sense (I'll refrain from any doctor comments).




> I'm not exactly a spring chicken either.


Judging from your unfamiliarity with steel bikes, I suspect I've seen a few more Springs than you. I bought my first 10-speed (that's 2 chainrings and a 5-speed freewheel, of course) in 1972. Anyway, I meant to mention that your long post above is full of very sensible advice and OP would do well to heed it.

And scooterdobs, good on ya for the fitness improvement and weight loss. Go thou and do likewise, Mike3387.

Ride on, everyone. The snowflakes outside my window suggest I may be beginning my little Winter hiatus from commuting soon. I hope it's brief.


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