# loose stem 1" quill thread, couple of questions, please



## TrailNut (May 11, 2004)

my old trek commuter developed a loose thread, it's a 1" steerer quill type (i think). when i got home I tightened it with a large plumming wrench, but i noticed there may be more than one "thing" to tighten. now it's real tight, but should i take it into to the LBS and have it check out this weekend?

my old fully rigid MTB in the late 1980s I had such a stem...it got loose on a rocky ride resulting in a memorable crash, but I hate to see what happen to me if a stem gets loose on a 50mph curvy descend on the road: is replacing such a stem with a threadless stem possible with the same fork?


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## racerx (Jan 29, 2004)

*Two problems...*



TrailNut said:


> my old trek commuter developed a loose thread, it's a 1" steerer quill type (i think). when i got home I tightened it with a large plumming wrench, but i noticed there my be more than one "thing" to tightened. now it's real tight, but do I should i take it into to the LBS and have it check out this weekend?
> 
> my old fully rigid MTB in the late 1980s I had such a stem...it got loose on a rocky ride resulting in a memorable crash, but I hate to see what happen to me if a stem gets loose on a 50mph curvy descend on the road: is replacing such a stem with a threadless stem possible with the same fork?



1st and foremost, you have a loose stem, not a loose headset. You should not have tightened the headset. You need to take an allen wrench and tighten the binder bolt. 

2nd fix that headset you messed up. A monkey wrench does not qualify as a bike tool, but if it is all you got...

Based on your assessment of the situation and the remedy you perscribed, I gotta suggest you take this to a qualified LBS and let them adjust it for you.


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## TrailNut (May 11, 2004)

*thanks*



racerx said:


> 1st and foremost, you have a loose stem, not a loose headset. You should not have tightened the headset. You need to take an allen wrench and tighten the binder bolt.
> 
> 2nd fix that headset you messed up. A monkey wrench does not qualify as a bike tool, but if it is all you got...
> 
> Based on your assessment of the situation and the remedy you perscribed, I gotta suggest you take this to a qualified LBS and let them adjust it for you.



thanks for giving me a clue on how clueless i am about this.. will do.


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## racerx (Jan 29, 2004)

*Sorry...*



TrailNut said:


> thanks for giving me a clue on how clueless i am about this.. will do.


After reading my response, yea, sound like a total geek. I really did not mean to...

Just trying to repeat something you mentioned, this is a really, REALLY dangerous situation. You should take no chances. 

If you do not have the proper tools, take it to a tech.

Hey, you are a fellow cyclist, you can't be totally clueless, you know the secret of how awesome it is to be outdoors. Also, I give ya big bonus points for trying, something a lot of folks won't even try.

You most likely need a couple of 32mm wrenches to correct the headset over-tightening job and a 5mm allen wrench to tighten the binder bolt. The binder bolt is that bolt you see when looking down on your stem. You have a quill type stem if the stem runs into the headset rather than clamping around the steering tube of the fork. Since I don't know exactly the brand of head set and stem, these are guesses. The wrench sizes may be different.

One last note, you really posted this in the wrong section. For more replies, post it in the Complete Bikes or the Components forum...Just trying to be helpful...


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## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

*Oh, brother.....*



TrailNut said:


> ............... when i got home I tightened it with a large plumming wrench, but i noticed there may be more than one "thing" to tighten. now it's real tight, but should i take it into to the LBS and have it check out this weekend?........................ is replacing such a stem with a threadless stem possible with the same fork?


Now that the headset (not the stem, BTW) has been tightened "real tight" by using a monkey wrench, you've probably _brinnelled_ the headset and will now need to replace it. If you feel any notchiness when you turn, this is what you've done. Your "repair" will cost you $60 to fix.

No, you can't use the same fork on a threadless headset.


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## TrailNut (May 11, 2004)

*can't use the same fork on a threadless headset*



Dave_Stohler said:


> Now that the headset (not the stem, BTW) has been tightened "real tight" by using a monkey wrench, you've probably _brinnelled_ the headset and will now need to replace it. If you feel any notchiness when you turn, this is what you've done. Your "repair" will cost you $60 to fix.
> 
> No, you can't use the same fork on a threadless headset.


"*brinnelled*" eh? geeepers that sounds bad...and i really dig that chrome fork...perhaps I'll find another 1" steerer chrome tourer fork and change it all to a threadless, with a Chris King headset (does he make 1" headsets?). there's no "notchiness" feeling on while turning, so far...

whatever that'll keep my commuter looking "old," but will contribute to performing reliablely and be long lasting I'll spend the money on it. I'm going fix or replace its 7-speed drive train 'cause, while it works fine - so says my son, it rattles which annoys me.

looks like our bargin commuter will be a project bike.


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## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

With all due respect, a chromed fork is a piece of [email protected], anyways. And, no, just because you destroyed a *headset* is no reason to replace a fork. They are 2 different things. Go buy a repair book. Read it. At least _try_ to have a clue when you post here.


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## meat tooth paste (Oct 6, 2004)

I like my chrome fork.


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## TrailNut (May 11, 2004)

*with all due dis-respect to Dave_Stohler*



Dave_Stohler said:


> With all due respect, a chromed fork is a piece of [email protected], anyways. And, no, just because you destroyed a *headset* is no reason to replace a fork. They are 2 different things. Go buy a repair book. Read it. At least _try_ to have a clue when you post here.


with all due dis-respect to Dave_Stohler, my "beater" commuter bike's steel chromed fork looks fine and seems to perform fine. I have a carbon fork on my other, road race, bike. carbon fork's fine, but overrated other than it's lighter weight for racing.

and no, i did not destroy my headset. i was thinking maybe a "modern" threadless headset maybe more reliable: sure works well on my MTBs.

i have repair books and i will read the portion about road bike quills and such. I know my way around a MTB, but now i'm getting acquainted around road bikes.

if i had a clue about these old style road stems i would not have posted here.

your post is with disrespectful attitude. you may like to get off on the internet with your attitude or you just may not be aware of it.


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## DrRoebuck (May 10, 2004)

*Wow.*



Dave_Stohler said:


> At least _try_ to have a clue when you post here.


I think you picked the wrong day to switch to Accelerade.


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## transplant (Jan 7, 2005)

I've got a shimano 600 threaded headset, I"

I'll sell you for cheap if you want it.


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## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

*Well, you obviously haven't read your book....*



TrailNut said:


> with all due dis-respect to Dave_Stohler, my "beater" commuter bike's steel chromed fork looks fine and seems to perform fine. I have a carbon fork on my other, road race, bike. carbon fork's fine, but overrated other than it's lighter weight for racing.
> 
> and no, i did not destroy my headset. i was thinking maybe a "modern" threadless headset maybe more reliable: sure works well on my MTBs.
> 
> ...



If you had, you'd know that a *quill* refers to the stem, not the steerer or the headset. You'd also know what the difference is between threaded and threadless forks (hint-it's the threads on the steerer), and you'd know that the headset is a different piece than the fork is. Go read your book. It will take less time than posting stupid questions does. You might actually learn something along the way.


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## TrailNut (May 11, 2004)

Dave_Stohler said:


> If you had, you'd know that a *quill* refers to the stem, not the steerer or the headset. You'd also know what the difference is between threaded and threadless forks (hint-it's the threads on the steerer), and you'd know that the headset is a different piece than the fork is. Go read your book. It will take less time than posting stupid questions does. You might actually learn something along the way.


i already knew that quill referred to the stem. what i didn't know is if i wanted a threadless headset would i need another fork, with a different steerer. i like threadless headsets...they give me a delusion of added safety and has a more modern look to it. i'm fond of Chris King headsets.

these forum are a fine place to post these question (before i sent my bike to my shop tomorrow). another good way to learn, maybe get or give some encouragements, and get entertained by the likes such as you. there are no stupid question, only stupid people.

what's really stupid is your reaction. somethin' aint right with your aloof hostility. 

well, it's been real, i sure hope not to see you sometime.

cheers


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