# How to: Prepare an old Cannondale frame for fixed gear conversion



## gregw (Aug 21, 2008)

Over the last few months I've taken an old Cannondale road bike, and converted it in to a fixed gear machine. This post aims to explain one approach to preparing a frame for fixed gear conversion. If you'd like a bit more information about the specification and some photographs of the final result, jump over to this thread.

*Material list*

Where appropriate I have provided links to the products used. I selected a Dupli-Color primer, color coat and clear coat. The quality is good and importanly, they are available where I live.

Old bike stand
Mild dishwashing soap
Pre paint cleaner or tack cloths - these help remove any dust or dirt before painting
Degreaser
Masking tape
Newspaper to protect the bottom bracket shell threads from over spray
Plastic sheets to protect surfaces and floors form over spray
Protective mask, goggles and gloves
Paint stripper and application brush 
Steel wool
Green Scotch pads
Filler and finishing putty
Windex for wet sanding
Filler/Primer paint
Acrylic car paint
Clear coat
Wet/dry sand paper
Rubbing compound to blend and finish the paint
Car polish
Car wax or other sealant

*1. Striping the frame*

- remove all of the components from the frame, including cable guides and bottle cage bolts.










- degrease threads.

- protect exposed threads with old bolts and pack the bottom bracket shell with newspaper.

- apply frame stripper using a brush. It's best to do a small section at a time, leaving a few minutes for the paste to act.

- use steel wool and green Scotch pads to remove the paint from the frame.

- clean the frame thoroughly and leave to dry.

- from this point on it's best to handle the frame as little as possible. In it's bare state it will pick up grease from your hands and fingers.

*2. Fill dents and holes* Prestolith plastic Füllspachtel / prestolith plastic bodyfiller , Presto finish NC-Combi-putty

- an old frame may well have scratches and dents. Fill with a suitable filler and a finishing putty for best results. As always a few light layers are better than one heavy application. 










*3. Prime (3 coats)* Dupli-Color filler/primer

- sand the frame with a 240 grit abrasive paper to rough up the surface; preparing it to take the primer.

- wash and dry the frame thoroughly.

- Use a suitable primer to prep the frame for the top coat. I used an all-in-one product to fill minor scratches and prime the frame.

- Wait one or two days for each coat to harden before wet sanding. Use a 600 grit abrasive paper in a circular motion, lubricating with Windex.










- wash and dry the frame thoroughly between coats after each subsequent sanding.

*4. Paint (4 coats)* Dupli-Color RAL Acrylic Spray Paint 

- it is critical to make sure the frame is free of dust. If you can, paint indoors in a well ventilated space. 

- wash and dry the frame thoroughly between coats and after each subsequent sanding. Prior to painting use a tack cloth or suitable cleaner to remove any dust or lint.

- wait 5 days between coats to allow the paint to harden. If you use a metallic paint it may be necessary to re-coat the frame within 30-45 minutes. Follow the guidelines for your chosen paint.

- between coats wet sand in a circular motion using a 1000 grit paper, and Windex to lubricate.

- Once the frame has been washed and dried use a rubbing compound 3M™ Perfect-It™ Rubbing Compound, 06085 to blend the paint and remove any powdery or dusty deposits. This is a key step if you want a smooth finish.










*5. Decals*

- if you have decals this is a good time to apply them. I designed my own based on a familiar design and had them cut in viynl.

*6. Clear coat (4 coats)*

- apply several coats according to the manufacurers instructions. It's important to make sure that the paint goes on as smoothly and evently as possible. 

- it's a good idea to bring the paint can a little closer to the frame to avoid a powdery finish.

*7. Final finish*










- after 2 days use the rubbing compound to finish the clear coat and get a nice and smooth result.

- polish the frame using an intensive polish/compound Menzerna Intensive Polish. This is a less abrasive product and creates a usefull bridge between the rubbing compound and final polish.

- a final polish Menzerna Final Polish II or glaze can be used to remove any compunding haze. The result should be smooth and clean. 

- test the paint finish. swipe a clean finger over the paint. You should hear a squeak. You can also take a thin zip-lock bag, place your fingers inside and run them over the frame. This will apmplify any imperfections.

- if there are any imperfections you'll need to decide if another rubbing, polishing cycle is required. It could be that it will just need another polish.

- finish up with a wax or acrylic sealant to protect the paint. Klasse All-In-One , Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

*8. Final thoughts and tips*

- take it slow, work in a clean methodical way. Don't rush.

- to support the frame, use an old stand with either a brush handle or length of dowel. 










- when painting, start with the complex joins and junctions like the head tube or bottom bracket. Then move to the main tubes.

- if for some reason the paint runs, don't worry. Wait for it to dry, sand and recoat.

- the process will almost certainly be more expensive than having a professional shop do the job. But. If you have the time and don't mind the extra cost you will enjoy the satisfying feeling of a job well done.

<img src="http://api.photoshop.com/home_bf94b49cf2bc45d28d386b32031550f5/adobe-px-assets/07466b73a0534a0c86aa7d3fb11e63c4" width="800" height="536"/>


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## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

nice job.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Very nice job. 

Btw, why didn't you remove the headset cups? You did a great job of removing everything else.


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## seeborough (Feb 3, 2004)

I didn't hold much hope when I saw the project in its infancy. 

But dayumn! Well done.


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

really nice; most excellent - I have a black (original paint job) cannondale eno hub single speed, myself.


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## gregw (Aug 21, 2008)

roadfix said:


> Btw, why didn't you remove the headset cups? You did a great job of removing everything else.


Long story. The original Cannondale fork has a 1 1/4" steerer tube and the Mizuno carbon fork a 1" tube. When I swapped the forks over about 10 years ago I had to have some shims made. The shims fit together with the headset and were very difficult to install corectly, so I decided to go with a low risk approach and mask them with tape instead.


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## PdxMark (Feb 3, 2004)

From the title of the thread "How to: Prepare an old Cannondale frame for fixed gear conversion" I was going to quip... by selling it and buying a steel frame... but I stand corrected. Lovely job...


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Great job...however, I liked the primer color better  -- sort of "military chic".


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## gregw (Aug 21, 2008)

PdxMark said:


> From the title of the thread "How to: Prepare an old Cannondale frame for fixed gear conversion" I was going to quip... by selling it and buying a steel frame... but I stand corrected. Lovely job...


I kind of know what you mean. This was a project to prove the ENO hub and now I've done that I might take a crack at one or either of an old Merlin Ti or 853 steel frame I have knocking around. I haven't seen many, but I think Ti could be potentially perfect for a fixed gear training bike.

In defense of the old Cannondale, it was always good at responsive acceration, something that a fixed gear serves to amplify.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Very nice,*

but little or nothing to do with fixed-gear conversion. The thread could have been more accurately titled "How to do an excellent do-it-yourself paint job on an old frame." From the title, I expected something like this:

1. Remove derailleurs and shift cables.
2. Remove one chainring.
3. Unthread freewheel.
4. Clean hub threads, apply loctite, thread on fixed cog.
5. (if necessary) re-space axle and re-dish wheel
6. Shorten chain
7. Go for a ride.

I guess I'm a minimalist.

Nice job, though.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

gregw said:


> I haven't seen many, but I think Ti could be potentially perfect for a fixed gear training bike.


It's perfect if you have an old Ti frame laying around. I converted my old 1993 Litespeed Classic frame into a FG initially but since I already had 3 other FG bikes I decided to use it as a dedicated SS instead, running only a White Industries freecog, with both brakes installed. It's a perfect bike for hilly long distance rides..


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Beautifully done, but if you are going down to base metal, why not remove all cable guides before priming and painting. Unless you wish to return to geared bike.


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## the_don (Mar 23, 2008)

I am not sure, but i think he did. I think he just left the rear brake cable stops


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

the_don said:


> I am not sure, but i think he did. I think he just left the rear brake cable stops


Don, you may be right, but *7. Final finish* shows Top Tube Cable Guides, Rear Derailleur Cable Stop and Pump Peg. To each his own, but if I were going to all that work, and it looks great, I would have removed them all and filled in the rear drop holes for Rack Mount Screws. I like smooth and clean.


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## the_don (Mar 23, 2008)

We need to hear from the guy who did it to really know the score.
Otherwise we are just spanking off in the wind.


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## gregw (Aug 21, 2008)

Sorry it's taken a while to get back to this thread.

The answer is that I did leave most of the 'furniture' in tact. It's not that I see myself returning it to a geared bike, rather effort and risk. Specifically; just filling the down tube bosses took hours, and with very thin tube walls I was worried about damaging the tubes.

I left the rack mount screws because I use the bike more for commuting than training.

Hope that clears up any confusion albeit a bit late.


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

Very nice. How did you set up the rear wheel?


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## gregw (Aug 21, 2008)

I used an Eccentric ENO hub, which allows you to tension the chain in vertical drop outs. Some time has now passed and I have to say I'm ever more impressed with the ENO. It's superbly manufactured and very durable.

I posted up a complete specification and some more images here: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=173403


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

They are the best - they are easily Campy Record, Dura Ace quality hubs. I really like your build. That is an excellent job and a very nice bike. I'm a Cannondale afficianado myself - I converted a black CAAD5 frame to singlespeed. 42-16 to an ENO hub.

<a href="https://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn118/RoyIII/?action=view&current=Cdale41220092.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn118/RoyIII/Cdale41220092.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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