# Le Champion Ti Arrived Today!



## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

I stayed home today to receive shipment of my new Ti. The UPS guy brought the box to the door and said, "This must be a nice bike, it is so lightweight." I said, yes, and I appreciate that your colleagues did not torture the box (the box arrived in good condition.)

I removed everything from the box, and my only surprise was how the front wheel was simply jammed inside without any protection. The rest of the bike seemed to be packed well.

Assembly was simple and straightforward. The wheels were true and needed no adjustment. The rear derailleur will need some playing with. I think I'll take the bike for a ride tomorrow and then adjust as needed. It is times like these that I wish I had a stand.

Although originally I planned to get the Heat with the SRAM setup, BD was sold out in my size, so I went with the Ultegra. 

I'll report back after my ride!


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## johnny dollar (Jul 21, 2010)

need pics


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## dolomoto (May 6, 2010)

Congrats on the new bike. Here's mine at Troup Square last month...


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*stand for adjustments*

Just fwiw, my "stand" is a piece of nylon strap that I hang from my rear deck at home, so that with the strap looped around the seat the bike is at a convenient height. If your house has a basement or garage there is usually something overhead you can hang a rope or strap from, works fine. I've also read about folks using their car carrier rack to support a bike for tuning.

The trick on the rear deraileur is to set the limit screws with no cable tension. Get the chain centered on the small gear, then manually shift the deraileur (by hand manipulating the deraileur itself) to check/set the limit on the big cog. Then crank in some cable tension to get the indexed shifting aligned. It's easier than I expected.

I've been following your bike selection saga, keep us posted! I'm quite happy with the Corvus Al, think I might have liked a 58 better than the 56 I bought (I'm 5-11 but long armed and legged). The 56 is fine but I'm still playing with the fit some. My bigger concern is a crank creak I can't figure out, not a big deal but I'd like to make it go away. I have a Kalloy adjustable stem on order ($20 at Jenson) so I can experiment with bar height. Bottom line, I'm happy with both the Corvus and 700HT I picked up from BD this summer.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

*Post Ride and Photos*

Ok. So here's the skinny. As I mentioned, setup was straighforward and simple. Fit and finish are very good. The bike looks great! Took it out for a ride yesterday, and the darn FD would not shift into the large chainring! Brought it home, and I still can't get it to shift into the big chainring....increased cable tension, adjusted barrel adjustment, and adjusted the limit screws; it simply won't shift over. So, I guess I'll take it in to LBS and hopefully they can make the adjustment on the spot. The place I generally go to I don't really like, so I'm going to try another one that is further away. Hopefully they can get things running right.

One minor little thing, and it's certainly not a big deal but it is strange. As you can see in the posted pic, there is some kind of brown particulate matter actually embedded into the tape. What's that all about???? I've included a pic of the box and the bike, too, so that everyone will know that I am not a shill.

I really love this bike; I just need to get it running right!


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## biken (Jul 20, 2010)

That's a really good looking bike.. Congrats on the new ride! Those brown particles in the tape are common. It is cork grip tape and it has that type of appearance. Also, you may want to adjust you handlebars, looks like you may have them rotated forward too much, may want to rotate them back some. Most people tend to aim the bottom of the drops at the rear brake. If they are comfy the way they are then don't worry about it.


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## johnny dollar (Jul 21, 2010)

yeah, some professional adjustments from the LBS might be in order.

As biken said, the brown particulates are normal in bar tape/cork. 

Great looking bike, even with the low quality pics, steeply angle handlebars, and the plastic cover behind the cassette, .

When it's dialed in it should be fun.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

johnny dollar said:


> yeah, some professional adjustments from the LBS might be in order.
> 
> As biken said, the brown particulates are normal in bar tape/cork.
> 
> ...


I took the pics when I got the bike. Handlebars already have been adjusted before my ride yesterday (but thanks for the tip, anyway). I was told to leave the "plastic cover" (what I was told is actually the chain guard) until the RD is properly adjusted to prevent possible damage to the spokes.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

Just curious....will most LBS make dr adjustments on the spot while you wait? I know it's supposed to be simple and quick, but I just can't seem to get the FD to shift onto the large chainring.


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*deraileur adjustment*

can you hang the bike so that you can spin and shift? really does just sound like the limit screw needs to come out a turn or two. if the LBS is not busy they'll usually toss it up on the rack, shouldn't be a big deal, 5 or 10 bucks maybe?


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

The guy at the LBS said he thought there was a kink in the cable, so they are going to replace the FD cable and housing (around $10), and then they will adjust the FD and RD. So I needed to leave it there and it should be ready around Wednesday. I miss it already!

I suspect I could have had BD send a new cable and housing, but for the small charge involve, it isn't worth the hassle. Oh, and the LBS said that the plastic cover over the cassette is indeed a spoke guard and that if they remove it the warranty from Mavic is void. I told them to leave it on there.


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## BluesDawg (Mar 1, 2005)

That plastic thing is more commonly known as a "dork disc". People who aren't adept at adjusting a limit screw themselves would do best to leave it in place. Many who do their own adjustments wouldn't be caught dead with it on their bike.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

I personally think it looks kinda dorky. Will it really void the warranty if I remove it?


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## dr4cats (Aug 8, 2010)

*I joined the club !*

After reading about this Le Champ Ti bike on the forums, I got really interested. I sold a whole lot of stuff on fleabay and now I have the $ to buy a second bike. I was going to buy a frame and build it myself, but the numbers did not even compare to the Moto Ti bike.

I am a B rider and a climber and my regular ride is an 09 Spesh Tarmac. I wanted a steel or titanium steed to keep company to the CF Tarmac.

So I took the plunge today and ordered the Champ Team Ti with DA group. That will be my long distance/endurance riding machine. Where else can you find a titanium frame with full Dura Ace for less than $2800 ?

Bike should be here by Friday........can't wait !


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

I love mine....and I'll love it even more when I get it back from the LBS and everything is shifting properly. But you are right, the Ti frame is beautiful, and the components alone are worth the purchase price.


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## SilentAssassin (Jul 29, 2010)

I have the Ti Heat version and I will say the bike rides great overall. I felt so confident on this frame, mashing on it, and the frame really does absorb bumps well. On a little 15 mile road section that I use to do on a 29er bike with slicks, I was 4 minutes faster on this bike. The frame is gold, it's extremely lightweight, and it's an awesome looking ride. Sram is truly an amazing group set as well. I'm sure the Ultegra is even better. I had some issues with mine and dealt with Bikesdirect support, and will say they are prompt in their response, and they really want you to be satisfied. I was tentative to buy a bike from bikesdirect before, but I think my next mountain bike will be from them too(as soon as they get a full suspension titanium 29er going), and I will definitely recommend them to friends and family members that want a good spec'd out bike for a good price.


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## dstedman (Apr 14, 2010)

Here is my experience with my Moto Ti: I cut off my black plastic disc on the back wheel the second I got it. No problems & looks way better.

My shifting didn't work right at first because I hadn't seated the rear wheel all the way into the frame before tightening the skewer. One of those things that is easy to do if you are assembling it on a bike stand. 

Your handlebars are pointing way too far forward. Also, I had to tighten the heck out of both the handlebars and the seatpost/seat linkage in order to get them to stay put. Otherwise, it's been awesome!


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

dstedman said:


> My shifting didn't work right at first because I hadn't seated the rear wheel all the way into the frame before tightening the skewer.
> 
> Your handlebars are pointing way too far forward. !


My rear wheel came properly seated in the frame and tightened. And with regard to the handlebars, when I set it up initially, before riding (and when I took the picture) I used the scale on the bars and set to 0. Before I rode and actually looked at how the handlebars were situated, I realized right award that they were pointing too forward and adjusted them accordingly. But I appreciate the tip. And as far as the "dork disk" is concerned, I will remove it once the RD is properly adjusted. Did you remove the back wheel to get it off, or simply cut it out? And will this REALLY void the warranty?


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*dork disc warranty?*

The disc is behind the cog, the right thing to do is to remove the freewheel with the proper tool and remove the disc. Far as I recall the disc has no spacer function. Warranty? Who knows, but you can be 99% sure that disc will never be a warranty issue, just keep the deraileur adjusted. If you never use the big gear in your area just adjust the limit screw so that you can't even get onto the big one and then you'll never be able to get into the spokes. I think my Corvus has a low, clear disc, hardly noticeable, so that could be an option too. Your LBS probably has many lying around, probably $5-$10 to R&R the freewheel / disc, 'specially if you just bring the wheel in.

Wed., bummer, but be good to have the big chain ring...


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

Cville700HT said:


> Wed., bummer, but be good to have the big chain ring...


You can say that again!


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## Zuerst (Aug 21, 2010)

what size is your bike?


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

Mine's a 51. I'm going to have a professional fitting next month.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

Two weeks...about 7 or 8 rides, and I'm very pleased with the Ti. I had a couple of minor problems initially, and Mike and Cliff handled them quickly and more than satisfactorily. I think the customer service I received is as good or better than I would expect from the LBS. I really don't see why anyone would be reluctant to buy from BD, as long as they can figure out their proper size.

At 5'8", with a riding inseam of 32", I think I could have gone with either the 51 or 53, but Mike recommended the 51 so I went with that. It seems to fit very well. I'm going to have a professional fitting at the LBS to optimize all of the settings.

Great bike and great price. I don't have a problem with the Richey saddle or the Aksium wheels, but I probably will change out the Cane Creek brake pads as they simply don't have the stopping power necessary for this rocket!


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*ubg, re the Cane Creek Pads, Dura Ace replace*

I replaced the Cane Creek pads with Dura Ace about a week ago, MAJOR improvement, as many have mentioned on these threads. Got mine at a local Performance shop for $9/pair, maybe 15 minutes to swap out and adjust. Seriously, if one has a bike on order with the Canes have the D.A. pads ready and just put them in upon assembly. I think my brake is a SCR3, the Dura Ace black rubber pads just slip into the existing Cane pad holders, perfect fit.

The Corvus Al is working out fine, I really did need the bars raised closer to seat height to be comfortable.

I'm still pondering a fork swap to get away from the heavy adjustable stem. Fork swap is easy BUT I can't get the bottom race (cone?) off the original fork (headset part), seems like a fairly tight press fit over the steerer tube. (Any advice anyone?) I was hoping it would just slide off but a little rubber mallet work doesn't break it loose.

I might quit the fork swap, considering change of "rake" issues and finding other options at Amazon from a search on "stems". I'd still like to try it, but not to the point of risking damage on the original fork.


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*removing "crown race"*

Looks like "crown race" is the proper term for the piece I need to swap.

So it is a tap on kinda fit.....

http://www.canecreek.com/tech-headsets?view=video


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

Cville700HT said:


> I replaced the Cane Creek pads with Dura Ace about a week ago, MAJOR improvement, as many have mentioned on these threads. Got mine at a local Performance shop for $9/pair, maybe 15 minutes to swap out and adjust. Seriously, if one has a bike on order with the Canes have the D.A. pads ready and just put them in upon assembly. I think my brake is a SCR3, the Dura Ace black rubber pads just slip into the existing Cane pad holders, perfect fit.


Do you know which model of DA inserts you purchased? I am seeing the R55C, R55C1, R55C2 and R55C3.


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*55c?*

I might have left the little bag they came in on the floor, I'll check this evening.

Not a precise answer, but they were the only ones Performance Bike had on their rack, a black rubber. The C1-2-3-4 may refer to rubber compound, 55 a size/style? (If I had to guess).


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## Cville700HT (Jul 22, 2010)

*DA Pads*

99.9% certain it's these, same look, price, and shop.....

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1078025_-1___


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

I've heard fantastic things about the Kool Stop Salmon Brake Pads. Anyone have any experience with them in the Cane Creek brake set?


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## TnFeltRider (Jul 27, 2008)

I'm not riding MOTO but I do have SCR5 Cane Creek brakes on my FELT F90 and the KoolStop salmon pads are the way to go, super stopping power, I'm lurking here considering a MOTO Ti bike and checking things out.


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## unboringuy (Jul 27, 2010)

I did swap out the Cane Creek inserts with Kool Stop salmons, and TnFeltRider is right....they are great!


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