# Are Marks (indent) on carbon fork from spacers normal?



## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

Doing some fall maintenance and noticed some marks on my fork steerer. It's about 5 years old on a caad 10.

The larger mark goes all the way around and is enough to stop my nail when I run it down the steerer. 

Is that normal? Why does it happen and should I be concerned? 

Thanks

Edit: the main mark seems to be right were the bottom of my stem is. However I don't think I've over tightened. I have a torque wrench. Also a few faint lines below that mark. They must be from the spacers as I've never had my stem lower


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

not in my experience.


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## zero85ZEN (Oct 11, 2002)

Carbon fiber is increadibly strong stuff. Those marks would not concern me. But I would keep an eye on them I suppose. 
Did you ride with your headset loose for an extended period of time? Movement/banging around for thousands of miles could have caused that perhaps.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

zero85ZEN said:


> Carbon fiber is increadibly strong stuff. Those marks would not concern me. But I would keep an eye on them I suppose.
> Did you ride with your headset loose for an extended period of time? Movement/banging around for thousands of miles could have caused that perhaps.


those marks are on the aluminum steerer.
and carbon fiber is stiff (and even fragile), it's not strong

but you're right about not being too overly concerned about the OP's fork, they're just little scores. However, if the OP doesn't feel confident about it, then it's best he replace the fork. It's pretty hard to ask him to "keep an eye" on this situation unless we realistically expect him to remove the fork to examine it before every ride or even every other ride or even once a week.


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## Bob Ross (Apr 18, 2006)

That's a carbon steerer tube too, right? It's _possible_ that the headset bearing preload wasn't properly adjusted before you tightened your stem bolts...I could see that allowing enough play in the steerer to cause the stem or spacers to score it. But I'm really reaching there.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

That is a carbon fork with an aluminum steer tube, come on.
CF is stronger than aluminum, period! But you can't bend it, it will shatter.

Put that thing back in the bike & ride.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

It's a carbon steerer full carbon fork.

I had someone look at it and said it's fine. I'll just keep an eye on it.

I've usually tightened to the upper limits. I probably should just tighten to what's needed. Should thr spacers below the stem be easily turned after everything is on correctly?


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

sheepherder said:


> It's a carbon steerer full carbon fork.
> 
> I had someone look at it and said it's fine. I'll just keep an eye on it.
> 
> I've usually tightened to the upper limits. I probably should just tighten to what's needed. Should thr spacers below the stem be easily turned after everything is on correctly?


No, spacers should be tight. I get the sense you need help on assembling this. try a google search. 
BTW, you can look up the specs on your bike - year / model to see what the manufacture says about the fork. That sure looks like alu-min-ee-um to me.


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## Wetworks (Aug 10, 2012)

sheepherder said:


> It's a carbon steerer full carbon fork.
> 
> I had someone look at it and said it's fine. I'll just keep an eye on it.
> 
> I've usually tightened to the upper limits. I probably should just tighten to what's needed. *Should thr spacers below the stem be easily turned after everything is on correctly?*


Umm, no. Sounds like you may have a spacer height issue? You really need to let someone qualified check over your bike it sounds like.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

No it's full carbon. I was just making sure about the spacers as under lower torque they do move without force.with close to max torque no movement


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

sheepherder said:


> No it's full carbon. I was just making sure about the spacers as under lower torque they do move without force.with close to max torque no movement


Huh?  The torque on your stem has no bearing on whether the spacers are tight. 

The spacers are tightened by the preload bolt, which is NOT torqued.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

So if I tighten the preload bolt to where the play is gone the spacers move a bit with some force. If I tighten a little extra after any play is gone the spacers don't move


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## askmass (Sep 28, 2009)

sheepherder said:


> So if I tighten the preload bolt to where the play is gone the spacers move a bit with some force. If I tighten a little extra after any play is gone the spacers don't move


Tighten to where there is NO play in the spacers, not even with force.

Lock down the pre-load solid and snug, then a touch more, and lastly set the stem bolts to the stated torque Nm.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

askmass said:


> Tighten to where there is NO play in the spacers, not even with force.
> 
> Lock down the pre-load solid and snug, then a touch more, and lastly set the stem bolts to the stated torque Nm.


Thanks, this is what I have been doing. I just making sure its not incorrect. I have seen videos online that where they don't really lock down the pre load. Just to a point there is no play when holding the front break down and rocking the bike. I can get to that point but the spacers have a lot of movement. I do tighten more to get no movement on the spacers


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

You're telling me that silver shaft in the picture is carbon fiber? Unbelievable!


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

I wouldn't mess around with a carbon or Aluminum steerer with a score mark around it.

That's how things Snap apart!

You had "someone look at it and they said it's fine"? Oh yeah, that's comforting.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

aclinjury said:


> those marks are on the aluminum steerer.
> and carbon fiber is stiff (and even fragile), it's not strong
> 
> but you're right about not being too overly concerned about the OP's fork, they're just little scores. However, if the OP doesn't feel confident about it, then it's best he replace the fork. It's pretty hard to ask him to "keep an eye" on this situation unless we realistically expect him to remove the fork to examine it before every ride or even every other ride or even once a week.


My goodness. The things that are written on the web.

- Carbon fiber is not fragile and very strong.

- At least you got the part right about being an aluminum steerer. 

- OP, those are score marks largely due to burrs on your stem. Many mechanics that are particular deburr a given stem prior to assembly. More critical with carbon fiber which has lower abrasion resistance compared to Al.

- you do NOT have to replace the fork. It is fine. Take some #600 emery cloth and polish out the score marks fractionally and if you like, deburr your stem where you see the intersection between stem and steerer caused the marks.

No big deal. Ride the wheels off it and not another worry.

You can ride your CAAD10 another 10 years without issue.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

sheepherder said:


> Thanks, this is what I have been doing. I just making sure its not incorrect. I have seen videos online that where they don't really lock down the pre load. Just to a point there is no play when holding the front break down and rocking the bike. I can get to that point but the spacers have a lot of movement. I do tighten more to get no movement on the spacers


The right procedure to set preload on integrated headsets is to tighten to the point where the bar does not turn on its own when the front end is lifted and tilted to one side. Then you back off preload slightly until it does turn. The method of checking by feeling for looseness when holding front brake and rocking usually results in too low a preload. 

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

sheepherder said:


> It's a carbon steerer full carbon fork.


Nah, I don't think so - looks like Aluminum to me - never seen a silver carbon steering tube. 

There's a components and wrenching forum which is where this would fit better - just an FYI


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

goodboyr said:


> The right procedure to set preload on integrated headsets is to tighten to the point where the bar does not turn on its own when the front end is lifted and tilted to one side. Then you back off preload slightly until it does turn. The method of checking by feeling for looseness when holding front brake and rocking usually results in too low a preload.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


Not to take exception to what you write goodboyr because I believe you do this for a living and basically know what you are talking about....there is some variation in the industry how its done or acceptable practice. For example I have been building bikes with threadless headsets since they were invented and have never torqued the tensioning bolt to the point with the wheel off the ground and tilted that the handlebar won't turn as a pre-step. To me, this is too much compression on the bearings even though you suggest backing off on this level of headset tension.

But back to the OP, the witness/score line you show 'can' but not necessarily be due to too loose a headset prior to the stem clamp bolts being tightened. A slightly loose headset can promote scoring of the steerer due to movement on the road over bumps. But typically score marks are a function of a stress riser aka stress concentration due to burrs on a stem/spacers and/or a slightly less than firm headset which promotes a slight tangential imprinting of the steerer due to high stress concentration relative to the rest of the clamping surface area. 
Btw, this is common and you likely see it everyday and FWIW it is no big deal at all unless score marks are deep in particular in carbon fiber.

A last point about headset tightness. What's the beef if there is no 'chuckle'?..chuckle being the term for chucking/pitch of the steerer within the headset aka unwanted movement/rattle.

The beef pertains to the bearings themselves. There is a phenomena in engineering due to higher frequency concentrated loading of bearings called 'brinelling' of bearings. Brinelling which is the namesake for Brinell hardness is due to spot loading of bearings due to pounding...what can occur with motion and vertical velocity of bearings against their seats. This ruins bearings of course and why preload is critically important to preclude this displacement. What is desired is Goldiocks...not too tight and not too loose. No vertical displacement but not too much compression which can also prematurely wear headset bearings.

https://www.rexnord.com/blog/articles/what-is-brinelling


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

Srode said:


> Nah, I don't think so - looks like Aluminum to me - never seen a silver carbon steering tube.
> 
> There's a components and wrenching forum which is where this would fit better - just an FYI


Last point, not really because I don't go there but yes, the collective has some value if you can sift through the copious disinformation.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

Srode said:


> Nah, I don't think so - looks like Aluminum to me - never seen a silver carbon steering tube.
> 
> There's a components and wrenching forum which is where this would fit better - just an FYI


It's just the picture. That's a carbon steerer I Think the lightening and flash made it look like that. It's carbon


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

11spd said:


> Not to take exception to what you write goodboyr because I believe you do this for a living and basically know what you are talking about....there is some variation in the industry how its done or acceptable practice. For example I have been building bikes with threadless headsets since they were invented and have never torqued the tensioning bolt to the point with the wheel off the ground and tilted that the handlebar won't turn as a pre-step. To me, this is too much compression on the bearings even though you suggest backing off on this level of headset tension.
> 
> But back to the OP, the witness/score line you show 'can' but not necessarily be due to too loose a headset prior to the stem clamp bolts being tightened. A slightly loose headset can promote scoring of the steerer due to movement on the road over bumps. But typically score marks are a function of a stress riser aka stress concentration due to burrs on a stem/spacers and/or a slightly less than firm headset which promotes a slight tangential imprinting of the steerer due to high stress concentration relative to the rest of the clamping surface area.
> Btw, this is common and you likely see it everyday and FWIW it is no big deal at all unless score marks are deep in particular in carbon fiber.
> ...


Thanks for all the info


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

sheepherder said:


> It's just the picture. That's a carbon steerer I Think the lightening and flash made it look like that. It's carbon


You are still ok. The 'modeling' of the steerer which shows the non homogeneous nature of carbon should have been the given away it is carbon...but the flash sure made it look like Al.

For reassurance, you are still good because the score marks aren't deep.

If you want to be anal do the following. Use #600 wet paper and lightly sand/polish the score marks out. Before doing so, loosen stem clamp bolts and hand fit the stem onto the steerer and determine where the interface of the stem or spacers are creating the score line. It is typically, right at the base of the stem clamp. This is because the base of the stem clamp is where the stem 'toggles' under load. If this edge isn't buffered or has a slight chamfer or radius, this load concentration can make this circumferential 'dent' in the carbon. That is what it is..due to excessive compression of the stem clamp bottom edge placing high force per unit area along the base of the stem clamp. Score lines can be created by other burrs within the stem clamp as well both in front and in rear.

Don't sweat it. You can make it a bit better. Make sure your preload is nice and firm and you torque the stem clamp bolts to spec which is typically 5 N-m or so.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

Please post a picture of the end of the steer tube, not the side.


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

Why does everyone think it is aluminum? It sure looks like a carbon steerer tube to me. Granted, it's not a very good picture, but you can easily tell by the fact the tube has a lot of variation and patches, the way carbon steerer tubes look, not uniform the way aluminum steerer tubes look. 

Anyway, I'm no expert on the trustworthiness of the steerer. I'd like to think it is probably ok as long as the isn't an actual cut in the carbon and it's just a slight compression from the clamping of the stem. Personally, I'd consider replacing it, but definitely keep an eye on it from time to time. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

duriel said:


> Please post a picture of the end of the steer tube, not the side.


It's a unidirectional carbon layup. Besides Cannondale put full carbon forks on the CAAD10. I worked for a C-dale dealer for 3.5 years.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

op, they're your teeth.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

11spd said:


> Not to take exception to what you write goodboyr because I believe you do this for a living and basically know what you are talking about....there is some variation in the industry how its done or acceptable practice. For example I have been building bikes with threadless headsets since they were invented and have never torqued the tensioning bolt to the point with the wheel off the ground and tilted that the handlebar won't turn as a pre-step. To me, this is too much compression on the bearings even though you suggest backing off on this level of headset tension.
> 
> But back to the OP, the witness/score line you show 'can' but not necessarily be due to too loose a headset prior to the stem clamp bolts being tightened. A slightly loose headset can promote scoring of the steerer due to movement on the road over bumps. But typically score marks are a function of a stress riser aka stress concentration due to burrs on a stem/spacers and/or a slightly less than firm headset which promotes a slight tangential imprinting of the steerer due to high stress concentration relative to the rest of the clamping surface area.
> Btw, this is common and you likely see it everyday and FWIW it is no big deal at all unless score marks are deep in particular in carbon fiber.
> ...


Yup. The procedure I described was for integrated bearings, not for all regular threadless headsets with external cups for example. I assumed that's what the OP has. 

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

goodboyr said:


> Yup. The procedure I described was for integrated bearings, not for all regular threadless headsets with external cups for example. I assumed that's what the OP has.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


I believe your assumption about what the OP has is correct...but OP if you are still watching, I would NEVER do what goodboyr does to ANY headset...torque the tension bolt to the point the bearing is crushed in thrust loading to freeze the headset with lateral hanging torque on the headset and then back the bolt off a bit and tighten the stem clamp. EVER.

Different strokes.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

11spd said:


> Before doing so, loosen stem clamp bolts and hand fit the stem onto the steerer and determine where the interface of the stem or spacers are creating the score line. It is typically, right at the base of the stem clamp. This is because the base of the stem clamp is where the stem 'toggles' under load.


It is mostly at the base of the stem where it meets the spacer. There are smaller marks lower down which make me believe it might also be the spacers doing it. 

I've also noticed on my newer bike cannondale has changed up the type of spacers so the whole edge doesn't come in contact with the steerer. 

Should I sand the bottom of the stem? How about the spacers? I'm thinking of just getting the newer ones that come on my supersix so it doesnt make things worse. 

Thanks


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

One thing I would never be non chalant about is a steerer. 

Op, get it checked out by someone truly qualified. 

When glass is cut a very light score mark is made then the glass breaks off clean. 

You’re steerer may very well be fine, but it’s not worth your face to listen to what a bunch of internet people say based on one picture.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

sheepherder said:


> It is mostly at the base of the stem where it meets the spacer. There are smaller marks lower down which make me believe it might also be the spacers doing it.
> 
> I've also noticed on my newer bike cannondale has changed up the type of spacers so the whole edge doesn't come in contact with the steerer.
> 
> ...


Yeah, typically where the biggest score mark occurs is the intersection of the base of the stem with the top of the spacer stack just as you say.
Its for simple reason that the stem is clamped to the steerer but it still toggles slightly at the bottom and the spacers are under compression but unrestrained comparatively. Keep in mind, this is design intent. Unless you are physically strong, steerers tend be very robust and expected to get score and witness marks on a carbon steerer as carbon isn't known for its abrasion resistance but this is a known property and engineers know it.

What to do. You can always post pics of anything you want to consider. Have 600# grit wet sandpaper on hand is a useful staple. I debur stems whenever I build a bike because I don't like marks on my steerer. Btw, I do frequent stem changes on my bikes. I change my riding position a lot. 
So yes, putting a slight .3mm radius or so on the inside diameter edge of a stem isn't a bad thing. Also spacers are highly variable. Some have a pretty sharp inside diameter edge and can have a saw like quality on a mating carbon fiber steerer. It is the fiber within the carbon epoxy matrix that has the sawing effect...carbon fiber if sharp can be abrasive. Just try to visualize the stress when you twist the handlebars under a full sprint. If you are a weight lifter, you have more concern than if you are a 150 lb high cadence endurance rider or climber.

Another 'trick' if you have any concern about the score mark on your steerer, is you can hide it within the clamping range of the stem. Shorten the spacer stack by 3-5mm or so and let the stem clamp support the steerer around the score mark.

If you want to be real anal and concerned about the integrity of your steerer if you are powerful guy, you can slam a 17 deg riser stem. This will put the least amount of stress on the steerer because it lowers the moment arm.

Post with any concerns. Lots of ways to skin the cat. As FF says, always safety first but if I had a nickel for every bike riding around with a score mark on the steerer like you show, I could buy an island. :wink5:


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

factory feel said:


> One thing I would never be non chalant about is a steerer.
> 
> Op, get it checked out by someone truly qualified.
> 
> ...


Guys like you who don't know better are better to be safe than sorry.
Respectfully.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

factory feel said:


> One thing I would never be non chalant about is a steerer.
> 
> Op, get it checked out by someone truly qualified.
> 
> ...


I think I'm actually being too anal about everything because it is carbon steerer and I'm not to familiar with carbon. Plus I've spent too much time reading horror stories on the net. Lol 

I actually did take it in to my lbs. They looked at it and said it's fine. But what makes them more qualified then 11spd? They inspected it quickly but I got the impression they didn't think much of it. They Said keep riding, they wouldn't worry if that was there steerer.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

11spd said:


> Another 'trick' if you have any concern about the score mark on your steerer, is you can hide it within the clamping range of the stem. Shorten the spacer stack by 3-5mm or so and let the stem clamp support the steerer around the score mark.


I was actually thinking of this and ordered a different compression plug as Cannondale or the FSa plug that comes with it doesn't like spacers above the stem (don't want to cut just yet) I've been told that plug sucks anyway. Not sure on that. 

Im just doing t this to make me feel better. As I've gotten enough reassurance that everything is fine. It's just a lot of people online don't like carbon and horror stories do scare me. 

Anyway thanks again


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

If that is a full carbon fork, I'll eat it!


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## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

sheepherder said:


> I think I'm actually being too anal about everything because it is carbon steerer and I'm not to familiar with carbon. Plus I've spent too much time reading horror stories on the net. Lol
> 
> I actually did take it in to my lbs. They looked at it and said it's fine. But what makes them more qualified then 11spd? They inspected it quickly but I got the impression they didn't think much of it. They Said keep riding, they wouldn't worry if that was there steerer.


(OP: take a new photo *outdoors*. That will be easier to see than the flash photo. )

Most bike shops won't say something is okay unless it's obviously good. There's no upside for approving something that fails later.

My carbon steerer has faint edge marks from my stem. I'm still riding it.

Carbon steerers are made of many layers of carbon. It's not like glass, where a surface score causes the glass to break there.

~~~

In 2016, *Bianchi issued a warning for their carbon steerers*. The photos are useful.

Crushed layers from overtightening are dangerous. But surface marks are normal. Their photos were very helpful to me.

The warning link from Bianchi.


(photos don't always upload and show in the thread. You may need to click the Attach link to see it. These photos are on the Bianchi link above, too. )

Crushing damage:

View attachment 324108










~~~~

Normal surface markings. You can see the circle where the stem was hollow inside, and the edge of the stem.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

sheepherder said:


> I think I'm *actually being too anal* about everything because it is carbon steerer and I'm not to familiar with carbon. Plus I've spent too much time reading horror stories on the net. Lol
> 
> I actually did take it in to my lbs. They looked at it and said it's fine. But what makes them more qualified then 11spd? They inspected it quickly but I got the impression they didn't think much of it. They Said keep riding, they wouldn't worry if that was there steerer.


the truth is, they may know less than 11spd.

PS. one can never be too anal about a steerer tube.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

sheepherder said:


> I was actually thinking of this and ordered a different compression plug as Cannondale or the FSa plug that comes with it doesn't like spacers above the stem (don't want to cut just yet) I've been told that plug sucks anyway. Not sure on that.
> 
> Im just doing t this to make me feel better. As I've gotten enough reassurance that everything is fine. It's just a lot of people online don't like carbon and horror stories do scare me.
> 
> Anyway thanks again


Why don't you do this. If you want peace of mind, take a pic outside as suggested of your steerer. Also take a picture of your new compression plug. Curious what you ordered. Measure the penetration of the new plug. Ideally, you want it to support the steerer in the clamping area of the stem. Surprisingly the compression plug can induce a stress riser if right at the intersection of the stem clamp bottom...where the score line is...and the bottom of the compression plug.

This all relates to stack height of your stem mounted to your steerer which of course can be adjusted. Reason why spacers are generally not advised above the stem is because then the compression plug doesn't penetrate deep enough to support the steerer where the stem is clamped.

If you need help in figuring this all out, we can advise if you post pictures and basic measurements with new compression plug and spacer stack you plan on running under the stem. Not hard to figure out but attention to detail is key.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

rm -rf said:


> (OP: take a new photo *outdoors*. That will be easier to see than the flash photo. )
> 
> Most bike shops won't say something is okay unless it's obviously good. There's no upside for approving something that fails later.
> 
> ...


Yet another valuable post from rm-rf. 
Great post.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

factory feel said:


> One thing I would never be non chalant about is a steerer.
> 
> Op, get it checked out by someone truly qualified.
> 
> ...


Not sure what cutting glass has to do w/ a carbon steerer. 



duriel said:


> If that is a full carbon fork, I'll eat it!


How can you not tell that steerer is carbon?


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## tomato coupe (Nov 8, 2009)

sheepherder said:


> I actually did take it in to my lbs. They looked at it and said it's fine. But what makes them more qualified then 11spd? They inspected it...


The reason the LBS is more "qualified" is because they actually inspected the steerer. 11spd, regardless of how much he might know, is working off a photo that is so bad that many (including him) initially thought it was an aluminum steerer. That's not an inspection.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

!!!it is alum'in'ium!!!! DAM AUTO-UNCAPITALIZATION SOFTWARE!!!


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## askmass (Sep 28, 2009)

Well hell, if only I'd known I could simply score my carbon steerer tubes with a glass cutter and tap off the excess clean as can be then I could have saved a sheet load of money on hack saw blades and hard work elbow grease over the years.

#Dayum


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

askmass said:


> Well hell, if only I'd known I could simply score my carbon steerer tubes with a glass cutter and tap off the excess clean as can be then I could have saved a sheet load of money on hack saw blades and hard work elbow grease over the years.
> 
> #Dayum


Fair counterpoint. Carbon Fiber isn't glass but CF can be sensitive to high stress concentrations at the base of a stem depending on depth of the groove. And TC makes a good point about inspection by a so called expert at a shop...still a judgement call but quite right we are relying on a less than perfect picture.

I believe most of us are on the same page about this. Carbon fiber steerer breaking off isn't new. Ask Hincapie.

Also would help to learn more for a more total picture. Bike set up. Handlebar width and largely about the rider himself. 220lb guys that can bench press 300 lbs...I have such a friend who is an ex pro rider for Trek turned powerlifter... are more likely to break off a steerer than a 150 lb guy who can't press 100 lbs. 

Truth is, design is for outliers. If outliers are too outside the statistical bell curve, things break more often...steerers, wheels and frameset. 

So ideally we would need to learn more. A picture of the OP's setup, how many spacers he runs under his stem...how long a stem...long stems place greater stress on a steerer and if the OP can generate 1500 watts out of the saddle...and of course a better understanding of the groove.

Chances are, there is nothing to see here but we don't know until we understand the full picture.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

R i p, o p.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> Not sure what cutting glass has to do w/ a carbon steerer.


Don’t be fatuous, Jeffrey.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

11spd said:


> Chances are, there is nothing to see here but we don't know until we understand the full picture.


Hope these pics are a little better. The FSA compression plug in the pick is how Cannondale wants it. I don't think it was installed correctly when the bike was built but I adjusted it when I learned about them a few years back. The other plug is longer then I thought. The length brings it right to the top bearing. I'm open to using any compression plug, even a different one from what I have. 

I'm not a power full guy. 175 lbs 6 feet tall. I don't race, just love cycling. This bike is now gonna be used in the fall and my travel bike. I like taking my bike with me when I go on vacation (if possible). Stem is 100 mm and I still have all the stock spacers under the stem. 30 mm or so.

I wouldn't mind on recommendation if those compression plugs arnt right. I just bought a new bike, another Cannondale. It's gonna be the bike I use mostly in the summer and would like to avoid any issues with it. It's a supersix so it's practically the same setup as this bike.

Thanks for all the help. All you guys been awesome.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

I'd use the long one, that looks great.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

sheepherder said:


> Hope these pics are a little better. The FSA compression plug in the pick is how Cannondale wants it. I don't think it was installed correctly when the bike was built but I adjusted it when I learned about them a few years back. The other plug is longer then I thought. The length brings it right to the top bearing. I'm open to using any compression plug, even a different one from what I have.
> 
> I'm not a power full guy. 175 lbs 6 feet tall. I don't race, just love cycling. This bike is now gonna be used in the fall and my travel bike. I like taking my bike with me when I go on vacation (if possible). Stem is 100 mm and I still have all the stock spacers under the stem. 30 mm or so.
> 
> ...


OP,
Great pics and see it a lot better. Looks like carbon now. 

Groove size and depth are a non issue. Felt that way before and new pics confirm it.

As Cx said, deep version of the compression plug is what the doctor ordered...all the way down to top bearing from top of steerer is very robust support of the entire steerer above the bearing.

Your size and weight are non threatening to steerer failure. You and I are close to the same size and neither of us are gorilla's to break handlebars or steerers when sprinting out of the saddle.

Ride it in good faith. Remember, if you want to change the stress concentration away from the groove, simple change the stack height by 3mm or so lower which will move the groove under the stem clamp. Btw, this is not necessary based upon your pic and all you describe.


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## 1500SLR (Sep 30, 2018)

sheepherder said:


> It's a carbon steerer full carbon fork.
> 
> I had someone look at it and said it's fine. I'll just keep an eye on it.
> 
> I've usually tightened to the upper limits. I probably should just tighten to what's needed. Should thr spacers below the stem be easily turned after everything is on correctly?


Buy a torque wrench you silly person 

Without a torque wrench on carbon component you're an accident waiting to happen :mad2:


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

11spd said:


> OP,
> Great pics and see it a lot better. Looks like carbon now.
> 
> Groove size and depth are a non issue. Felt that way before and new pics confirm it.
> ...


Sorry to bother you again but can I ask what is that glossy layer on the outside of the steerer? 

I'm probably just getting paranoid but I uploaded pics from my new bikes steerer. Right where my finger is you can feel a slight unevenness. Like to material raises a bit. You cant see it. It starts at the top of the steerer and only goes 1 cm down. Then the steerer is smooth all the way down. It's a brand new bike. I'm just probably paranoid but I have been inspecting my stuff which is good. I just thought the steerer should be perfectly round. It's right at the edge where that line is. I know the pic probably sucks but that line goes all the way down the steerer. Like it's wrapped around the carbon and that's were it meets.


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

Got a brand new caad13 and it has scoring right where the bottom of the stem is. Just like the pics but not that bad.

Would you accept the bike. It's supposed to be brand new. It was boxed and built and given to me.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

sheepherder said:


> Got a brand new caad13 and it has scoring right where the bottom of the stem is. Just like the pics but not that bad.
> 
> *Would you accept the bike*. It's supposed to be brand new. It was boxed and built and given to me.


Yes..


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## sheepherder (Mar 11, 2012)

cxwrench said:


> Yes..


You see this on new bikes? 

Thanks


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

sheepherder said:


> You see this on new bikes?
> 
> Thanks


It happens.


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