# What do you think



## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

What do you guys think about this bike for a beginner?
Merax Finiss Aluminum Road Bike Racing Bicycle (Red & white, 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014GZJ7GM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_i-onwb6BKJWG7


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Unless you're absolutely certain of your sizing requirements, I suggest NOT buying a bike online. And keep in mind, brand A's 50cm is brand B's 47, and so on.... so frame size alone tells you little.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

well, you gave us nothing to work with regarding your physical stats, expectations, goals...

if you're considering that bike, it seems that you need to start educating yourself about what you're buying. you realize that a new $200 road bike is at the absolute bottom of the 'entry level' spectrum...low-end parts, a kickstand (?), heavy as an anvil...

go to some local shops and look at what their entry-level choices offer and cost. figure out the size you need, beef up your budget if at all possible...you've got some work to do.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Oxtox said:


> well, you gave us nothing to work with regarding your physical stats, expectations, goals...
> 
> if you're considering that bike, it seems that you need to start educating yourself about what you're buying. you realize that a new $200 road bike is at the absolute bottom of the 'entry level' spectrum...low-end parts, a kickstand (?), heavy as an anvil...
> 
> go to some local shops and look at what their entry-level choices offer and cost. figure out the size you need, beef up your budget if at all possible...you've got some work to do.


Good point. Ok so here's some info on me:
I am a 28 year old Navy vet and senior at the University of Oregon. I will be going into law school. I have 2 kids. I live 1.2 miles from campus and ride to campus everyday. My absolute main purpose to owning a bike is commuting. However, I don't want to use it for only commuting. I would love to join a team and participate in 20-40 mile bike rides with them and possibly race events as well. I would also like to hook up a trailer to the bike and haul the kiddos around every once in a while. But the absolute main purpose is commuting. Hauling the kids is the smallest priority and team riding is really something I want to do. People here in Eugene OR have rubbed off on my.
Being a veteran, I am fit and love a healthy lifestyle. I am 5'8" and weigh 174 lbs. No I am not chunky, I am muscular. I wear a 30" waist. 
I do currently have a road bike which I have owned for 2 weeks. It serves it's purpose well. I purchased a 2015 Fuji Track Classic 52" for $440. I was influenced on purchasing a SS by the salesman. I went in looking for a geared bike and left with a SS. Most of the local shops here carry about 80% SS and the rest geared bikes. Those geared bikes were well above my $500 budget then. There was a used Trek bike one salesman tried selling me for $399 but it felt too big. He was adamant about me getting a SS and said that is what everyone in the area was using because Eugene is fairly flat. I settled I guess. I do love this bike. Its really fast. But again, I would like to cycle with a team and I know I would not be able to keep up with them on hills. The store has a no return policy.
I can give this bike to my wife who is the same height as me and buy a new one but I am no longer at the $500 budget. That is why this amazon bike seems appealing to me: price. 
Honestly, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a good bike and a bad bike. I have 0 experience,with road bikes aside owning one for 2 weeks now.
Thanks.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

O and the product description says the amazon bike is 28lbs. My Fuji is 26lbs. Not much difference.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

used to live in Junction City and Eugene in the early 80s...nice part of the world. used to ride from JC to OSU twice a week.

first of all, don't understand why the shop pushed you to a SS (with a no return policy), especially if you mentioned wanting to do group rides/races. and just eyeballing frame size is kinda sketchy...someone 5' 8" on a 52 cm...hmmm, maybe, but seems unlikely.

you have a lot of things you want to do...commute, train, race, tow a trailer. the SS can work for some of that. but, you're going to want a geared bike to race.

fwiw, I wouldn't let any of my acquaintances buy that Amazon bike. it's a dog...since you're so strapped for a budget, educate yourself on the used bike market and look at local offerings...you can at least throw a leg over them and ride a little. doesn't sound like you're savvy enough to buy online yet.

good luck.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Thx. I guess another option is just use my current bike for the time being, save a little every month, and then sell this one when I'm ready. If I say I won't be ready to upgrade for a year to a $1k bike, well then that's less than $100 month I have to save. It's doable. So what size frame do you suspect I should be on for 5'8"? I might have to save and drive to Portland to a well known bike shop and purchase one there. 
So for a beginner, you wouldn't even recommend a well known and good rated bike online?


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

fit varies from person-to-person...your height is just a rough starting point...inseam, arm length, torso length all factor in.

I'm 6', both of my road bikes are 56 cm.

ride the SS, save some $...upgrade when you're more sure of what your wants and needs are...


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> What do you guys think about this bike for a beginner?
> Merax Finiss Aluminum Road Bike Racing Bicycle (Red & white, 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014GZJ7GM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_i-onwb6BKJWG7


At 28 pounds, yes, that bike is a boat anchor. They put lots of spokes to strengthen the wheels, probably because the rims aren't that solid. The shifters will wear out in a year. The seat clamp won't hold the saddle where you want it very long. These bolts loosen up over time, the ratchets round off, and the saddle will tilt down at the worst possible moments. :nono:

Your size at 5'8" is 54 cm. or "Medium." With sloping top tubes, this is best measured along the top tube. Center of seat post to center of head tube should be 54 cm.

Look for a bike with eyelets on the drop outs for fenders if you're going to commute on it up in the rainy NW. A rear rack could also be added to carry weight on the bike, not on your back. Go with 32 spoked wheels for reliability. Nothing worse than breaking a spoke on your way to the office. :frown2:

Cyclocross or touring bikes would provide the right gears for commuting, as well as having the eyelets for fenders and rack. Forget about these uber short wheelbase racing bikes that won't take 25mm or thicker tires, don't have dropout eyelets or enough clearance for fenders. Get that one later.  Meantime, you won't get dropped on club rides riding a fendered bike, despite what riders say.

A high quality road bike can be had used for a couple of hundred bucks. Might require a little patience to find a touring or cyclocross bike in your size, as these are small niche markets.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Seems ridicoulous to call 28 lbs a boat anchor. And I don't know what eyelets are.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

A lot of road bikes are 15-19lbs. Anything over 18lbs is considered heavy by the guys here. 

Have you checked out bikesdirect.com? They have some really nice bikes for $350. Way, way better than this Chinese crap. This is a great time of the year to buy a bike! Shops are blowing them out, and online discount places like BD are following suit.

Sora level bike: Save Up to 60% Off Carbon Fork Road Bikes - Windsor Wellington 4.0 Web Sale Prices

and a really nice cane: Save Up to 60% Off Road Bikes - Motobecane Mirage S


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Couldn't I buy one online and just have someone adjust wattle height and handlebars to correct for as long as I got the right frame size?


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Manny87 said:


> Couldn't I buy one online and just have someone adjust wattle height and handlebars to correct for as long as I got the right frame size?


The seat tube length is far secondary to top tube length when it comes to sizing a bike properly. You cannot compare seat tube lengths unless you know exactly where the measurements are taken. If you're planning on buying a bike without being properly fitted by a *competent* person then you are entering a total minefield. No, a "54" from one company probably won't equal a "54" from another company - unless they were measure from and to the same points.

An online purchase will be a real crapshoot.

And please don't let the fellow who talked you into a SS bike fit you for a bike.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Thx for that reply. Ya the guys who sold me the bike didn't even fit me. I rode a 54" and he simply said it looked too big and sold me a 52". They have been running for over 20 years so I just believed everything they said. I wish I would have known more then.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> Seems ridicoulous to call 28 lbs a boat anchor. And I don't know what eyelets are.


28 pounds is heavy, and largely a function of strength over weight. Cheap bikes are heavy because cheap frames and cheap components are heavier.

Are you saying the 52 cm. [not inches] bike feels too small? Measure center of seatpost to center of head tube to determine actual size. With top tubes sloping down in back, seat tubes are always at least one size "smaller" than top tubes, so that's not a good way to determine size. If the seat tube measures 52 cm. the top tube could be 54 cm. [medium size] or 52 cm. [small]. I guess you have a 52 cm. top tube if the shop guys said small. 

Eyelets are threaded holes right above where the axles attach to the frame and fork. They take standard screws, same as for water bottle cages, and provide solid mounting places for fenders and racks. Their presence also most likely indicates there's enough clearance for fenders between tires and frame.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Does U. Of Oregon have a club cycling team? If so, maybe join them and seek out their advice. They may have sponsor shops that can help you out


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Fredrico said:


> 28 pounds is heavy, and largely a function of strength over weight. Cheap bikes are heavy because cheap frames and cheap components are heavier.
> 
> Are you saying the 52 cm. [not inches] bike feels too small? Measure center of seatpost to center of head tube to determine actual size. With top tubes sloping down in back, seat tubes are always at least one size "smaller" than top tubes, so that's not a good way to determine size. If the seat tube measures 52 cm. the top tube could be 54 cm. [medium size] or 52 cm. [small]. I guess you have a 52 cm. top tube if the shop guys said small.
> 
> Eyelets are threaded holes right above where the axles attach to the frame and fork. They take standard screws, same as for water bottle cages, and provide solid mounting places for fenders and racks. Their presence also most likely indicates there's enough clearance for fenders between tires and frame.


No I'm not saying that 52 is too small for me. It feels right. Of course, not,sure of I know what feels right actually feels like. The bike is 54cm from seat to handlebars. Here is a pic.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

If you're serious about riding a bike you'll find in a short period of time that having spent $250 or so on a bike was a waste of money due to it breaking a lot and no parts available to fix it. You speak of doing 20 to 40 miles with another group as well as racing? That bike won't survive nor is even remotely equipped to be doing races. 

However you say you already have a bike, so why spend money on a low quality new bike that will give you more problems then you already have? I like your idea that you keep riding your current bike and save up money till you get about $1,000 and probably more. All you have to do is see what kind of bikes your friend who race ride on and find out how much those cost. Then continue to ride with those guys to get your fit level up for racing, then buy a new or newer bike and go racing. I would say you could get a nice new racing bike for around $2,000 or a slightly used one for $1,000 like this one in your area: https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/5251189011.html
Or this: https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/5288452060.html
Or this: https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/5285102668.html

The cheaper bike I showed you would probably be idea and it saves you about $400 which you can use to upgrade certain items with, but the other bikes are good too and may not need to be upgraded. Something to chew on, that's all.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> No I'm not saying that 52 is too small for me. It feels right. Of course, not,sure of I know what feels right actually feels like. The bike is 54cm from seat to handlebars. Here is a pic.
> View attachment 310381


So fit sounds about right. :thumbsup: Froze is right. Save up coin and get a nice light road bike for those group rides. 

That single speed will make a great "beater bike." Put it in fixed gear and build up big quads for the Spring races. :yesnod: Everyone I know who's gotten into fixed gear/single speeds has ramped up fitness to the next level.

That chainring looks pretty large, what, 48 teeth? Awesome.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> Thx for that reply. Ya the guys who sold me the bike didn't even fit me. I rode a 54" and he simply said it looked too big and sold me a 52". They have been running for over 20 years so I just believed everything they said. I wish I would have known more then.


For clarification, the guys at the shop didn't do you wrong. They were talking about seat tube sizes. 

The top tube on the 54 cm frame was probably 56-57 cm, too long. The top tube on the 52 cm bike is 54 cm as the picture shows. At your height, that size should be fine. You feel comfortable on it, right? That's a good sign. :yesnod:


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

froze said:


> If you're serious about riding a bike you'll find in a short period of time that having spent $250 or so on a bike was a waste of money due to it breaking a lot and no parts available to fix it. You speak of doing 20 to 40 miles with another group as well as racing? That bike won't survive nor is even remotely equipped to be doing races.
> 
> However you say you already have a bike, so why spend money on a low quality new bike that will give you more problems then you already have? I like your idea that you keep riding your current bike and save up money till you get about $1,000 and probably more. All you have to do is see what kind of bikes your friend who race ride on and find out how much those cost. Then continue to ride with those guys to get your fit level up for racing, then buy a new or newer bike and go racing. I would say you could get a nice new racing bike for around $2,000 or a slightly used one for $1,000 like this one in your area: https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/5251189011.html
> Or this: https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/5288452060.html
> ...


I do NOT see myself spending $2k on a bike even if I had become quite the successful rider. Not anything in that price range until after law school. And the issue with CL bikes in this area is that bike theft is the #1 crime here and Eugene is 5th in the nation for bike theft, the majority of the bikes in CL are stolen. Prior to buying my bicycle I looked at craigslist and contacted 7 sellers. Every single one of them claimed they were selling the bike for a friend and knew nothing about the bike themselves.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> I do NOT see myself spending $2k on a bike even if I had become quite the successful rider. Not anything in that price range until after law school. And the issue with CL bikes in this area is that bike theft is the #1 crime here and Eugene is 5th in the nation for bike theft, the majority of the bikes in CL are stolen. Prior to buying my bicycle I looked at craigslist and contacted 7 sellers. Every single one of them claimed they were selling the bike for a friend and knew nothing about the bike themselves.


All the more reason to hold onto that single speed! 

You'll also get respect from the club riders. And probably be able to stick with them on all but the most arduous climbs.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

I appreciate the responses. So what do you guys think on my current bike then? Good beginner?


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> I appreciate the responses. So what do you guys think on my current bike then? Good beginner?


Hold on to it. It's very simple, easy and cheap to maintain, will commute and ride well with the fast boys if you go that route. Some of them train on single speed/fixies over the winter.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Ok well then my next step is to swap these pedals. The cages suck. I dont know the difference between clip vs clipless, what a cleat is, or why I need bike shoes.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Fredrico said:


> At 28 pounds, yes, that bike is a boat anchor. They put lots of spokes to strengthen the wheels, probably because the rims aren't that solid. The shifters will wear out in a year. The seat clamp won't hold the saddle where you want it very long. These bolts loosen up over time, the ratchets round off, and the saddle will tilt down at the worst possible moments. :nono:
> 
> Your size at 5'8" is 54 cm. or "Medium." With sloping top tubes, this is best measured along the top tube. Center of seat post to center of head tube should be 54 cm.
> 
> ...


Interesting...my size at 5'8" is 52cm. I guess I'm on the wrong size bike. And we always measure 'effective' top tube, not actual. And that number usually has absolutely nothing to do w/ the bike size. Bolts done magically loosen up over time unless they weren't properly tightened in the first place. You have no idea whether this is the case or not. 'Ratchets' have nothing to do w/ bolt *flats* becoming rounded off. In your first paragraph you say 'They put lots of spokes to strengthen the wheels, probably because the rims aren't that solid. ' Then, in your third you state ' Go with 32 spoked wheels for reliability.' Which is it? Are 32 spoke wheels 'not solid' or are they 'reliable'? 

That's a lot of derp in a single post.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

Not about the bike. 

I am a Navy veteran (Started life as a Nuke). I went to law school. My kid was born the 2nd week of my second term. 

If you think you are going to have time to train to race (or even ride enough to hang in racing type rides), you need to re-think your priorities. 

Law school is no BS. Undergrad is nothing in comparison. Nuclear power school is a better comparison (if you didn't do that, that comment is meaningless to you). 

During my first year, I studied/preped 9 hours for each 3 hour class. Ended up graduating magna cum laude. Multi-stated out of one bar exam and scored in the 95th percentile in the other. You need to enter law school totally focused on law school. If that is not your attitude, do something else - finishing law school does not equal a high paying job (or even a job). BSing your way through is not how to do it. 

You life should be 1) school, 2) family, 3) extended family, and 4) precious few moments for yourself. My few moments were occasionally fishing at a dam 5 minutes from our house. Your family (spouse) needs to be 100% on board (meaning s/he can accept school taking precedence over him/her and the kids when you need to get school done).


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

cxwrench said:


> Interesting...my size at 5'8" is 52cm. I guess I'm on the wrong size bike. And we always measure 'effective' top tube, not actual. And that number usually has absolutely nothing to do w/ the bike size. Bolts done magically loosen up over time unless they weren't properly tightened in the first place. You have no idea whether this is the case or not. 'Ratchets' have nothing to do w/ bolt *flats* becoming rounded off. In your first paragraph you say 'They put lots of spokes to strengthen the wheels, probably because the rims aren't that solid. ' Then, in your third you state ' Go with 32 spoked wheels for reliability.' Which is it? Are 32 spoke wheels 'not solid' or are they 'reliable'?
> 
> That's a lot of derp in a single post.


To some, maybe. 

So you're riding a 52 cm frame measured by top tube as well as seat tube lengths? How about that? I'm 5'8" and fit a 54 cm bike with 55 cm top tube, and still need a 120mm stem. The commuter is 53.5 cm seat tube, 54 cm top tube and needed a 135 mm stem to achieve proper reach. I've got 60,000 miles on each and have no need to change positioning. 

OP just bought a single speed with the size clearly marked on the seat tube in the picture. Seat tube 52 cm, top tube 54 cm. He said he was comfortable on it. That's good enough for me if its good enough for him. :yesnod: Can we venture to say he's in the ball park?

Ok, you got me on the wheels. Looks like 36 spokes on fairly massive cast aluminum rims, machine spoked, no doubt, on the cheapie bike OP didn't buy. If the spokes are all tensioned properly by hand, which is a real question, those wheels are quite solid, yes.

My comment about that funky saddle clamp comes from all the times I had to replace them after they came loose once and wore off the stops, so they would "ratchet" to the next stop, usually tilting down in front at the worst possible time. They wouldn't tighten up. You'd torque the hell out of it and it wouldn't hold the saddle level. Lousy, cheap design. :frown2: 

The flats on the bolt didn't wear off, unless mechanic got angry and didn't get the wrench firmly on the nut. :frown2:


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

crit_boy said:


> Not about the bike.
> 
> I am a Navy veteran (Started life as a Nuke). I went to law school. My kid was born the 2nd week of my second term.
> 
> ...


Advice not asked for. Your case will not be mine. You know nothing about me. Did you want an applaud? Congratulations on not BSing through law school. Have someone buy you a cookie. You sound like a nuke.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

"If this is not your attitude, do something else"
Seriously were you picked on? Bullied? Still laughing at this and somehow highly amused and slightly disturbed.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Manny87 said:


> Advice not asked for. Your case will not be mine. You know nothing about me. Did you want an applaud? Congratulations on not BSing through law school. Have someone buy you a cookie. You sound like a nuke.


Great attitude new guy. You're doing a fine job of sealing your reputation after a month on the forum.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> Great attitude new guy. You're doing a fine job of sealing your reputation after a month on the forum.


This thread has deteriorated to the point that the Mod needs to lock it - or better still, delete it.

The OP has all the advice he needs and he can Google the differences between types of pedals and why shoes are needed - or not.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

cxwrench said:


> Great attitude new guy. You're doing a fine job of sealing your reputation after a month on the forum.


Not everyone reacts the same when unwanted advice comes their way. Most advice is generalized and non specific to the individual. You want to see it first hand? Try telling someone how to raise their kids. See what reaction you get. What he said had nothing to do with bikes so he risked getting the kind of response that he got by saying what he said. 
Personally, I've always had this kind of attitude when someone told me I can't do something. That's such a huge driving factor for merove them wrong. That's just me. Do I not have the right to express myself as I please? Of course I do. And he knows it best as he is a lawyer and should know exactly where I'm coming from.
I don't care too much if you liked that response or not. I have gotten valuable responses from everyone else (including yourself) in the last 24 hours about what I came here to ask. That's what I'm here for. That's what this forum is here for.
Can we get back to bikes?


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

Mike T. said:


> This thread has deteriorated to the point that the Mod needs to lock it - or better still, delete it.
> 
> The OP has all the advice he needs and he can Google the differences between types of pedals and why shoes are needed - or not.


I do think I have great advice already on the bike. I will continues to research pedals and if more insight is needed, a new thread will be created.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

But is it realistic to attempt to control drift and divergence on internet forums?
Especially here with so many entitled postings and lack of civility runs rampid. ;O


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Manny87 said:


> I do think I have great advice already on the bike. I will continues to research pedals and if more insight is needed, a new thread will be created.


Here's my "pedals" info from my website. Some of the info might be a touch dated by now but the general idea is all there.

For my pedal info - click here.


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

Law school requires much study. I found that I also had to keep fit. Your cycling plans sound good to me. University of Texas, JD, 1970.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

I am going to toss this in here for sheits and giggles. It seems in context float got defined contrary to the pedal design of what I use, at least suggestively.

I use Keywin CRM Pedals exclusively for road and have for near 20 years. I mention this as they are the only pedals I am aware of that do not used cleat to pedal interface float.

The pedal platform/axle is where the float is. The cleat is affixed solidly to the pedal when clipped in. And in fact they come with lock in pins for track use so they are pretty versatile I guess in that regard. Also a screw can adjust the float IIRC from 6^ to zero float. I use all mine with max float.


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## Manny87 (Oct 31, 2015)

David Loving said:


> Law school requires much study. I found that I also had to keep fit. Your cycling plans sound good to me. University of Texas, JD, 1970.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

Just put those 2 on ignore.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Manny87 said:


> I do NOT see myself spending $2k on a bike even if I had become quite the successful rider. Not anything in that price range until after law school. And the issue with CL bikes in this area is that bike theft is the #1 crime here and Eugene is 5th in the nation for bike theft, the majority of the bikes in CL are stolen. Prior to buying my bicycle I looked at craigslist and contacted 7 sellers. Every single one of them claimed they were selling the bike for a friend and knew nothing about the bike themselves.


Ouch!! I didn't realize Eugene was like that. In that case find a coop or a bike shop that sells used bikes.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Manny87 said:


> I looked at craigslist and contacted 7 sellers. Every single one of them claimed they were selling the bike for a friend and knew nothing about the bike themselves.


Just as likely they are just flipper/re-sellers and proactively inserting plausible deniability.
I have had some of them come look at stuff I have for sale and make crazy low ball efforts. I meet with folks at a church near my house that has a repent style message always on the big sing as you enter the car park. 

I am a passive flipper, in that I give up one or two for a new lust interest etc. I have a friend that flips on the side, and he usually know no history on stuff he sells/flips. 

So thought I would mention it may not be as demonic as one might think...


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