# 2013 Roubaix Base for Newbie?



## MiggityMac (Jul 21, 2013)

Hey guys,

I'm looking at getting my very first road bike. I've test ridden many bikes and settled on the Roubaix. My LBS had a base model on sale for $1400 and the next one in my size is an Expert model for $3,000. This isn't ideal since I want to get a bike before summer is over but I'm afraid the Sora groupset on the base model is too cheap and the Expert level is too advanced (and also out of budget). What are your thoughts? Is Sora a bad investment even for a newbie? Would Ultegra be major overkill? Thanks for the help!


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## Martin Karlsson (Jul 6, 2013)

I would advice you also to look at the frames, as the 2013 base model is sl2 an older quality frame for what you get than the 2013 sl4 expert or all 2014 frames that is all sl4. 

Look at the correspondinding aluminiumframes also if you consider the base 2013 Roubaix. They give a good ride to a smaller cost if you want to purchase before the 2014 models are out. This advice is more so you don't look back on you purchase after the summer and wanting the 2014 model instead. The sl2 Roubaix is a nice bike also and will give you many good rides so you can't go wrong either way.

The sora group is ok today as shimino has trickled down tech from their more expensive groups. Of course the more expensive groups comes with more gears and better shifting, the 105 group is usually looked for as a good group.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Personally, since the frameset is the heart of the bike, dictating fit, handling and (to some extent), ride, that's where I place a priority. Groupsets are wearable items and can be upgraded over time. 

That said, considering 'trickle down' and the fact that the SL2 used to be Spec's flagship model, it's certainly a quality, upgradable frameset. 

Re: Sora, while it's true that as you go up model lines there's added refinement, better finish and lighter weight, assuming proper setup/ tuning, all Shimano's groupsets will prove reliable and perform well. I've test ridden most, and find the most recent iteration of Sora to be a perfectly acceptable group for most recreational riders. As with any groupset, make sure the gearing matches your fitness and terrain.

For a first bike, I say save the money and go for the Sora equipped SL2. A _very_ nice entry level bike that you'll get many years (and trouble free miles) from.


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## MiggityMac (Jul 21, 2013)

I can't thank you enough for the replies. I had the bike loaded up and ready to return in exchange for the Expert but I'm going to keep it. I think a Sport or Elite model would be best for me but my LBS is sold out and I need to get on the road before summer is over. Do you guys have a ballpark figure for how much it would cost to do a full upgrade to 105? $500 or more?


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

MiggityMac said:


> I can't thank you enough for the replies. I had the bike loaded up and ready to return in exchange for the Expert but I'm going to keep it. I think a Sport or Elite model would be best for me but my LBS is sold out and I need to get on the road before summer is over. Do you guys have a ballpark figure for how much it would cost to do a full upgrade to 105? $500 or more?


You can probably get a new set for around that on ebay, nasbar, department of goods, art's cyclery, etc. It looks like planet cyclery has a set for around $600:

Shimano 105 Silver 5700 Group Set 9 pcs: Planet Cyclery

Herre's an example from ebay:

Shimano 105 Group 8PC Kit 5700 175mm 50 34 11 28 Black | eBay

If you go the ebay route, it can sometimes be cheaper to buy peice by piece, but it can take a bit of patience to wait for the right deals. The thing you have going for you is that you are up and running on your bike and can take your time and buy each piece when you see a deal you don't want to pass up. Enjoy your bike either way!


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## RRRoubaix (Aug 27, 2008)

You did the right thing- a $3000 bike as a starter is a bit over the top. 
As PJ said, SL2 was once their very best, so it is a very good frame.
Don't fret about upgrading the entire groupset, or even be in a rush to do so. You can pick up the most important bits (shifters, rear derailler) peicemeal from your LBS or on e-bay or online vendors. (It helps to keep the LBS happy- scratch their back and they'll scratch yours).


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

MiggityMac said:


> I can't thank you enough for the replies. I had the bike loaded up and ready to return in exchange for the Expert but I'm going to keep it. I think a Sport or Elite model would be best for me but my LBS is sold out and I need to get on the road before summer is over. Do you guys have a ballpark figure for how much it would cost to do a full upgrade to 105? $500 or more?


Because of cost versus (minimal) payback, I'd advise against an upgrade, but if you're hellbent on doing so, upgrade to Tiagra 4600 shifters, a 10 speed chain and cassette and you're at 10 speed. All your other bits are 10 speed compatible. All told, probably around $280 or so.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Apparently, Chain Reaction Cycles is currently having a huge drivetrain sale:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Offers.aspx?CategoryIDs=90,538,533,1005,79,537,640,789&Offer=2&SortBy=DiscountDESC&utm_source=cyclingnews300x250&utm_medium=banner&utm_campaign=summersale&_$ja=tsid:41319%7Ccn:summersale%7Ccgn:cyclingnews300x250%7Ckw:300x250


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## bikeriderguy (Oct 12, 2012)

My 2 cents 
I'm a die hard mountain biker who recently got into road riding. I wanted my 'first' road bike- so I did the 'experiment' purchase. Went low end and got myself a bike Shortly thereafter I discovered that road bikes are pretty darn fun! 
This time on the entry level bike also gave me time to really figure out what I liked about the bike, what I would change etc. etc. in my case I discovered that 'race' geometry wasn't really a match for me

About 8 months later I put it up for sale and sold it for what I paid originally and ordered a much higher end roubaix (expert ui2) which is something I will
Ride for years with a smile on my face. 

My point isn't so much about what I ended up buying its more about the process. Personally I wouldn't bother spending 500 or a thousand on upgrades when you can get such a higher end build directly from the manufacturer. This is especially true when talking about the higher end
models having both frame and group set upgrades

So my 2 cents. You did the right thing buying what you did. Who cares about the upgrades -just ride it and have fun for a while and if you can then flip it to
upgrade go for it! 

I also did this when I wanted to try a 29er.... I got a smoking deal on a low end specialized. Loved it. So I dumped it for what I paid (roughly) and ordered its full carbon replacement with all the componentry i wanted.


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## carbonLORD (Aug 2, 2004)

The OP says noting to his size. I think the SL2 in say a 58-61 has a massive head tube. Age, plan on doing distance, racing? Just curious...


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

The SL2 Roubaix is very good to go...I spent my entire last season on a 2009 Roubaix comp (older 105 group) and it was great. While I felt the frame was a bit too "flexy" for my tastes and landed up on a Tarmac when I came time to put some of my own $$ down...I felt the Roubaix did exactly what it was designed to do. The ride was smooth, it was very responsive and highly enjoyable for putting the miles under my feet.

The Sora you now have is, I believe, the same 105 that was on that 2009...and it was a quality set. Never did I feel I was having issue with shifting or braking due to the gruppo.

Like the others have said...ride and be happy. Put some miles down while the weather is still nice, beat on the bike a bit and then see if you want improvements. Don't get caught up in sora-vs-105-vs-Ultegra-vs-Dura whatever...just ride.

One hint...learn how to adjust your own bike. I spent quite a bit of time last winter learning exactly how my kit works and it has paid dividends. I can get that thing shifting like a Swiss watch. My LBS had it adjusted ok...but I really got it dialed in now that I know what I'm doing.

Hit the road...enjoy you new bike (congrats BTW), get to know its quirks and learn to adjust it. Trust me...that kit is a nice one, it will serve you well.


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## MiggityMac (Jul 21, 2013)

Thanks for the continued replies and input, I really appreciate it! In regards to the question about size, I'm 5'10" and was fitted in a 56cm bike. I've had the bike out a few times so far and love almost everything about it. There's one issue I'm having though that I hope someone can help me out with... It doesn't take me long at all while riding on the hoods to get *really *sore in the space between my thumb and index finger on both hands. I'm a complete road biking newbie but it seems I'm putting way too much weight on my hands. The only place that seems somewhat comfortable is riding in the drops. I am using gloves and wearing padded bike shorts. I've looked at my saddle and it appears to be very level and not pointed downward. Any advice? I'm hoping I wasn't fitted wrong...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

MiggityMac said:


> There's one issue I'm having though that I hope someone can help me out with... It doesn't take me long at all while riding on the hoods to get *really *sore in the space between my thumb and index finger on both hands. I'm a complete road biking newbie but *it seems I'm putting way too much weight on my hands*. The only place that seems somewhat comfortable is riding in the drops. I am using gloves and wearing padded bike shorts. I've looked at my saddle and it appears to be very level and not pointed downward. Any advice? *I'm hoping I wasn't fitted wrong..*.


The first bold statement is likely true. The second may be, but it could also be form.

Some things to focus on:
- keep your upper torso relaxed, arms slightly bent
- change hand position _frequently_ (tops, bends, hoods, drops...)
- keep a slightly loose grip on the bars (avoid the 'death grip')
- keep forearms and hands aligned (don't twist at the wrist - refer to pic below)
- consider good quality gel gloves
- I usually recommend good quality bar tape, but your bike being new, it should already be installed.

Give them some time, but if the form tips don't help, don't hesitate to return to the LBS and ask that fit be tweaked. Assuming your saddle is level and you're not pushing yourself back on the saddle, it's likely that fore/ aft position needs to adjust aft slightly and/ or saddle tipped up slightly. Both tend to shift a riders weight back. 
View attachment 284767


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## Typetwelve (Jul 1, 2012)

MiggityMac said:


> Thanks for the continued replies and input, I really appreciate it! In regards to the question about size, I'm 5'10" and was fitted in a 56cm bike. I've had the bike out a few times so far and love almost everything about it. There's one issue I'm having though that I hope someone can help me out with... It doesn't take me long at all while riding on the hoods to get *really *sore in the space between my thumb and index finger on both hands. I'm a complete road biking newbie but it seems I'm putting way too much weight on my hands. The only place that seems somewhat comfortable is riding in the drops. I am using gloves and wearing padded bike shorts. I've looked at my saddle and it appears to be very level and not pointed downward. Any advice? I'm hoping I wasn't fitted wrong...


I had the same issue last year. I'm not saying fit isn't the issue...but I'm positive riding form either is the only cause or is at least a partial cause of your problems.

Lets face it, the position of riding on a road bike is not natural at first. Your body knows this and,for some time, will make you pay for your hobby. The great news is that in a relatively short amount of time, your body will come along fine. I had the exact same hand issues when I started. I also had a hip flexor issue on my left leg, neck issues, feet issues and back issues...

A summer on the saddle and a winter on the trainer and all I'm left with now is a few form issues that will be fixed with better core strength.

You'll come along. Get on the saddle more, do some exercises for cyclists when off the bike and practice good form. I always try to keep in mind that a short ride using good form and better than a long ride using crappy form. When I found out "how to ride" properly...I actually shortened my rides because it was initially harder on my body. Once I grew stronger and more skilled, I upped the time on the saddle. I went from riding 2-3 miles daily last summer to comfortably and safely completing my first 100K in under a year (and that's including a crappy winter/spring with little outdoor riding).


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## carbonLORD (Aug 2, 2004)

*Gloves?*



MiggityMac said:


> Thanks for the continued replies and input, I really appreciate it! In regards to the question about size, I'm 5'10" and was fitted in a 56cm bike. I've had the bike out a few times so far and love almost everything about it. There's one issue I'm having though that I hope someone can help me out with... It doesn't take me long at all while riding on the hoods to get *really *sore in the space between my thumb and index finger on both hands. I'm a complete road biking newbie but it seems I'm putting way too much weight on my hands. The only place that seems somewhat comfortable is riding in the drops. I am using gloves and wearing padded bike shorts. I've looked at my saddle and it appears to be very level and not pointed downward. Any advice? I'm hoping I wasn't fitted wrong...


You own a SL2 now so you're no longer a.... Don't use that word, it's suitable for a 12 y/o girl riding a bike for the first time, not your initial road bike purchase.

Anyway, what kind of gloves are you using? Certain gloves pinch my hand in the hoods and cause unwanted pressure, strain. Also, try and find the sweet spot between riding comfortably in the hoods *and* the drops. You may need to adjust the tilt in your handlebars slightly, or even adjust the brake hood position on the bar (your LBS should take care of this for you but ask if you can watch what they are doing so you can do it yourself one day). If you are flexible you might find adjusting the saddle fore/aft can help in alleviating hand pressure. Perhaps a follow up adjustment at the LBS is in order? Ive been cycling for 20 years and even just last week did a handlebar swap on one of my best rigs, always looking for that perfect position. It never ends. Enjoy!


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