# My first roadbike - Nishiki Prestige



## tk1971

After years of mountain biking, my friend finally convinced me to look into road bikes.

Quite a different beast... Went to the LBS this past weekend and tried out an entry level Canondale and the steel framed Specialized Allez. Nice bikes, but I don't think I'd like to plunge right into it with a new $700+tax bike.

I've been looking @ CL, but didn't find any diamonds in the rough in the area near my home. Then today, went to the CL closer to work and found a nice Nishiki Prestige w/ the following:

- CR-Mo seamless tubing & CR-Mo steel fork blade. Tange 2, double butted tubes
- Bar: JIII KUSUKI on one side and WIN PISTA Japan on the other
- Race/Sport Geometry sticker
- Sugino VP Crankset with 52T & 42T
- Fr and Rr derailleurs are Suntour Cyclone
- (Corrected from 7) 6 gear cassette 13T - 26T
- Dia Compe brakes with a "G" stamped on them
- Front and rear hubs are SE SANSIN Japan with "3C" stamped on the front hub and "BG" on the rear hub
- Both rims are Araya 700C
- Brake levers have AC250G on them
- Bottom of the BB has: WE 09 CAL 0P P0193770

Here are some pics:
































































Funny thing is that I had left my hitch bike rack on my car from the weekend, so I guess I was meant to find this bike. Tires are all shot, but I think it's worth the $150 I paid for it.

Can't wait to start stripping / cleaning everything. I also might get some alone time with the rims on the truing stand.

What do you think?

tk


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## bicyclerepairman

Sweet ride. I like the paint scheme, which would look even better on a larger bike (more of the headtube would be painted). Congrats.


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## Dave Hickey

Very nice ride.....I can't wait to see it cleaned up


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## orbeamike

Looks like a good deal for a person shorter than 5'4".


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## tk1971

orbeamike said:


> Looks like a good deal for a person shorter than 5'4".


I have a 29" inseam and I can straddle this thing at the top tube. I've tried various 49cm, 50cm, and 52cm at the LBS and the max I can tolerate is 50cm.

Maybe I'm not getting it (coming from mtb), but I thought when stopped and with both feet firmly planted on the ground, "my boys" are not supposed to touch the top tube.

tk


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## orbeamike

tk1971 said:


> I have a 29" inseam and I can straddle this thing at the top tube. I've tried various 49cm, 50cm, and 52cm at the LBS and the max I can tolerate is 50cm.
> 
> Maybe I'm not getting it (coming from mtb), but I thought when stopped and with both feet firmly planted on the ground, "my boys" are not supposed to touch the top tube.
> 
> tk


Sure, you shouldn't be riding the top tube, but as far as how much clearance is somewhat arbitrary. I just hope you get adequate reach and bar height (although by the look of the bike it already has a fairly tall extension stem on it). 

Besides not all bike manufacturers measure the same way. I for example ride anywhere from 56 to 60cm depending on how a bike is measured (and all the bikes are basically the same size, just measured differently with very small design variations). In fact, I don't even pay that much attention to claimed bike sizing anymore, what I am more concerned with is the top tube and head tube lengths, and more or less seat tube angle. 

Once it's all cleaned and properly set up to your riding preference post another pic and we will see. 

Mike


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## tk1971

orbeamike said:


> ...
> 
> Once it's all cleaned and properly set up to your riding preference post another pic and we will see.
> 
> Mike



Will do.

Trued the rims. Front is done - removed everything, cleaned and repacked with park grease.

I'm stuck at the removal of the cassette.

Time to do some googling... found it, Park FR-3.

tk


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## orbeamike

By the way, just noticed your homemade work stand. Clever!

I too have a Nishiki Cresta Touring bike from '85 with the same tubings and all Suntour that's been sitting in the shed for the last few years. Before that I lent it to my brother who knew nothing or have any love for bikes and it just got beat to hell. Last month I started the same process you are going through and I hope to have it completed before the rain season comes. It's suppose to be an all weather touring bike project, but whether I will ride it in the rain in the winter months is yet determined.


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## tk1971

Got it down to the frame tonight.

In an attempt to save the original finish, I sprayed a few coats of Rustoleum Clear onto the frame and fork.










Found out that the seat post is the wrong size (26.8mm, should be 26.6mm). Rim tape and the Selle SM Ponza saddle arrived. Still need tires, tube, new cables, cable ends and housing ferrules (shipping soon).

I haven't even gotten around to cleaning / greasing up the bottom bracket yet.

Oh yeah, and I'm still waiting for my FR-3 (also in the mail).

By sometime next week, I'll be done.

tk


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## tk1971

Got my FR-3 and finished up the rear hub. The freewheel looked surprisingly new.

Fitted the wheels with Vittoria Zaffiro Tires (700c x 25, same size as the ones removed). They're supposed to be puncture resistant, but are heavier than the Panracer ones I took off (which were literally falling apart). Any suggestions for a lighter, long-lasting tire? Would 700c x 23 be overwhelmed by bad streets?

The bottom bracket spindle on the drive side has gouges. Now waiting for a square UN25E with English threads at 68 x 117 (stock one is 68 x 116). 

Put new shift cables and new housing for the rear derailleur. I managed to re-use the brake cable and housing. Even the pads look good.

In the meantime, I'm anxious to get things on for fitment. 

Still waiting for: A set of Sugino VP tripple crank setup in 170mm (as opposed to the stock 165 double cranks), a new SRAM chain with powerlink, and SRAM supercork bar tape (in red). 

Pics to come, but I set up KOPS and had a maiden voyage around the street last night.

The Uno seatpost (30mm setback mimicking the one I took off) is much lighter than the ill-fitting one. After setting up KOPS, looks like I could have gotten away with no setback as I now have my seat slid all the way to the front. I also had to cut the 350mm length seat post about an inch. Still waiting for my pedals to arrive, but once that comes, I'll put on my shoes and re-check KOPS and re-adjust if necessary.

Surprisingly, the stem fits. After tilting down the bars a little bit and moving the brake levers, I now have the bars obscure the front hub when grabbing the lowest bar position (with brake lever reach - which will be my "grind" position). I'll have to re-check once the pedals are here.

tk


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## tk1971

Got impatient. Cleaned up and re-wrapped bars with the vinyl stuff that came with the bike. For the most part I'm done (except for the later conversion to a triple for climbing). Also need to put on the new chain. See the pictures below. The gear cogs look new and the hubs cleaned up nicely. And check out my modern bottom bracket (UN25E).

Popped 2 tubes trying to go 120 psi on the tires. Did some searching after the fact and found that the Araya's have that little bump instead of a hook. Tires are at 60psi, and I'll eventually get them up to 80-90psi.

Weight: 22.5 lbs

On with the pictures:



























































































tk


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## gcedillo

Great Job and sweet ride , Im about your size (29 Inseam, 5"6) and truly appreciate the rarity of finding steel bikes as sweet as this one on our size.
Enjoy!


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## tk1971

So, after popping the tubes, I decided to take a closer look at the rims. I'm unhappy with bump for hooks that these rims have, and have decided to get some modern cheap rims. I found some Maddux aero rims complete with rim tape and free-hub (with free shipping, comes out to less than $60). The only catch is that the rear requires 135mm of spacing (126mm with the Araya stock rear rim).

I used Sheldon Brown's method of spreading and aligning, but the dropouts needed to be aligned as well, so I rigged up some all-thread and some piping to align the dropouts. Note: That's two pieces of all-thread, not one. After spreading the rear, the long pieces of all-thread were secure to the dropouts. The long length and piping (the one inside the rear slides around) allow me to have a good grabbing point and use leverage to straighten it out. The pics show how close I got it. It looks like one continuous piece.




























I think I'll go for a SRAM 7 speed cassette (12-32, which weighs slightly less than an XTR 8 speed cassette). I also have alot of mtb rear derailleurs lying around, so that'll give me enough chain for a triple up front. I got a used Sugino VP triple and will set it up with 52/38/28. This, of course will require a 68 x 127mm bottom bracket. I'm undecided as to whether or not my stock Cyclone front derailleur will work. If not, I'll have to look for a Cyclone II.

I've been sick the last weeks, so I haven't been riding... just tooling around.

tk


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## tk1971

Ended up with a cheap Shimano mtb 12-32T 8-speed cassette I had laying around. XTR rear derailleur, a 68 x 127mm BB and the 170mm triple crank set with 52 / 38 / 28. The Cyclone derailleur works fine (with a little finese). Looking at a Mk2 and original Cyclone side by side, I can't say there is any visible difference. The original Cyclone works fine on the triple. I had to get new levers, since no one has replacement hoods for the Dia Compe AC250G levers. Ended up with Sunlite (made by LeeChi) BL-250 levers, which have an aluminum body and return springs on the levers. Each new lever (with return spring) weighed 6g more than the original levers and looks almost original, a worthy upgrade IMO. New brake cables and housings. Then after finalizing my bars, I finished it up with red bar tape (super cork).

Sorry for the crappy phone pic, but here it was this last Sunday on my bike rack. My riding buddy and I went up and down a steep mountain road. It's only about 3.5 miles up, but everything worked nicely. Shifting was buttery smooth.


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## orbeamike

nice! with that gearing range you are set up for just about everything.


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## tk1971

Yep, ready for any road. 

Thanks to this forum, I am now ready to put some miles on this bike.

Now... I just have to get my riding partner to get a road bike too.

tk


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## tk1971

I'm only able to ride once a week on the weekend, so another week another ride.










I had to adjust my handlebar angle down slightly. 3.5 miles up with about a 3,500 elevation gain. This is my 2nd real ride and I now find that I hate this seat. I think I need a Phenom.










I'm beginning to love this bike. The steel frame just eats up the bad road when I'm flying down.

tk


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## zender

Wow that brings back memories. I bought one of these when they were new circa 1986 or 1987. Same color scheme too. Have fun with it!


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## tuffinup2003

*Nishiki Prestige Restore coming up*

Finding your thread on this forum inspired me to start overhauling my Prestige. I was looking at bikes around the 2000 dollar range and decided that I would rather use the bike I bought myself 23 years ago brand new and just put nice components on it. I am going to have lots of questions for you so please be patient with me. I am a first time bike restorer/builder.

Charles


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## esldude

Very pretty bike there, and good to see such a frame kept in service.


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## tk1971

tuffinup2003 said:


> Finding your thread on this forum inspired me to start overhauling my Prestige. I was looking at bikes around the 2000 dollar range and decided that I would rather use the bike I bought myself 23 years ago brand new and just put nice components on it. I am going to have lots of questions for you so please be patient with me. I am a first time bike restorer/builder.
> 
> Charles


Charles,

Any progress?


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## crossracer

Awesome work, the bike looks great and im glad you are enjoying what many of us know here, Steel rides fantastic. 

Now having done a few older bikes, i have to say one thing about one area on your bike that you may need to address. Now i say "may". The area i am talking about is the handlebar width. ALot of the older bikes had way narrow bars. That is one of the first things i replace on any bike i rehab. They are allways really narrow. 

Glad you are having fun, great job.

BIll


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## nick.m.rose

Good work. Steel is still the best.


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## tk1971

After doing all this, no one I ride with bought a road bike, but I'm still riding dirt. My Prestige is still pretty and sitting in the garage most of the time.

I think I'll pull her out this weekend and go for a ride.

I can't believe it's been 2 years.


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## tk1971

Still kicking around. Recently decided to focus on comfort and put on a 48cm Nitto Noodle with a Nitto Technomic Stem. With the wider bars I was able to fit some Suntour thumbshifters and move away from the downtube shifters. 

Finally had a decent ride. Rode 25 miles to the beach and back. About 3 hrs total. Not bad (for me at least) considering my normal mountain ride is under 10 miles total.

At the beach:


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## Tachycardic

I'm a BIG fan of Japanese steel. Beautiful bike! If you ever want to sell it, send me a PM


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## Duane Behrens

tk1971 said:


> [snip]


Spent the time this morning reading up on your restoration project. Enjoyed it - thanks much. Sorry you found the latest seat uncomfortable. Have you tried a Brooks saddle? Of all the saddles I own and ride, it (for me) is the most comfortable.

I have a 35 year old Nishiki that I love almost as much as my border collie. Okay, a bad comparison, but you know what I mean:


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## tk1971

Duane Behrens said:


> Spent the time this morning reading up on your restoration project. Enjoyed it - thanks much. Sorry you found the latest seat uncomfortable. Have you tried a Brooks saddle? Of all the saddles I own and ride, it (for me) is the most comfortable.
> 
> I have a 35 year old Nishiki that I love almost as much as my border collie. Okay, a bad comparison, but you know what I mean:
> 
> View attachment 296211



I'm now part of the Brooks saddle cult:


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## Duskychaos

I love Brooks saddles.  Beautiful restoration! I am so completely ashamed of the current state of my cromoly Nishiki mixte, and am planning to give it a really good cleaning. I wanted to ask a question though - What size rim tape do you use, or know that you would use for this bike? My rear wheel had gotten a flat not too long after I patched the tube, so I suspected maybe it was time to change the rim tape or the tire entirely since it was old and cracking and just wasn't doing a good job. Unfortunately I picked up rim tape that was far too fat (22mm) and woke up to the tire flat again. I suspect the tube probably got pinched, though my bf who isn't really bicycle savvy had insisted on doing it his way and I preferred not to argue with him (when I change tubes I inflate the tube a little bit, tuck it into the tire, then put tire/tube together on the wheel - since the tape was taking up so much real estate the wheel wasn't going on too well so he put the tube on the wheel then the tire over it). Do you think 16mm velox rim tape would work?


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## tk1971

Duskychaos said:


> I love Brooks saddles.  Beautiful restoration! I am so completely ashamed of the current state of my cromoly Nishiki mixte, and am planning to give it a really good cleaning. I wanted to ask a question though - What size rim tape do you use, or know that you would use for this bike? My rear wheel had gotten a flat not too long after I patched the tube, so I suspected maybe it was time to change the rim tape or the tire entirely since it was old and cracking and just wasn't doing a good job. Unfortunately I picked up rim tape that was far too fat (22mm) and woke up to the tire flat again. I suspect the tube probably got pinched, though my bf who isn't really bicycle savvy had insisted on doing it his way and I preferred not to argue with him (when I change tubes I inflate the tube a little bit, tuck it into the tire, then put tire/tube together on the wheel - since the tape was taking up so much real estate the wheel wasn't going on too well so he put the tube on the wheel then the tire over it). Do you think 16mm velox rim tape would work?


I used 16mm tape.

With the Araya wheels, I found that the tire I bought would slip and the tubes would blow. How do the flat tubes look like (slits or holes)?

I ended up getting modern / new wheels.

But I recently rebuilt a Schwinn Super Sport for my brother in law with the same wheels. I used a wire beaded tire (Vee Rubber value tire in 700x25c) and had no problems inflating it all the way up to the 90 or 100 psi max.


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