# Best Road Chain???



## tcwave (Jul 23, 2007)

Hi,

What is the best (highest quality, lightwight, great performance) chain for a roadbike? I have a Durace 10 speed cassette and FSA chainring. (Let's just assume money is no object)

What do the guys in the tour use? I hear they go through 3 chains each over the tour.

Thanks,

tcwave


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## z ken (Dec 30, 2006)

if you use D/A cassette/ FSA crank, then go with D/A 10 chain. all the pro tours use either D/A, Campy or srams chains depending what kind of crank/cassette their bike setup are. i know Wiperman chain is lighter than D/A, Campy or Srams but isn't as durable.


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## mytorelli (Dec 19, 2004)

If you want the best get a KMC. its $80, but they are soooo nice. and very light










https://fairwheelbikes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=42


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*$80*

If you paid $80 for a chain, you got screwed. You can get Campy UN chains in the $40-50 range. I can get 5-6,000 miles from one.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=details&sku=CH4113

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=list&Category=242&Brand=60&type=T

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=list&Category=242&brand=367&modelid=5507&type=T


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

mytorelli said:


> If you want the best get a KMC. its $80, but they are soooo nice. and very light


That price is high. I carry them for less. BUT they are great chains and shift and IMO (sales bias aside) shift better than SRAM or DA.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

tcwave said:


> Hi,
> 
> What is the best (highest quality, lightwight, great performance) chain for a roadbike? I have a Durace 10 speed cassette and FSA chainring. (Let's just assume money is no object)
> 
> ...


Lightest non ti chains and best shifting:



















Road or MTB 9 speed and 10 speed:


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

Ti chains?

Why does that seem like a bad idea...


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Argentius said:


> Ti chains?
> 
> Why does that seem like a bad idea...


Wipperman had/has one. It was like $300!


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## rdolson (Sep 2, 2003)

I used the X10SL for about 1200mi. Did not like the way it shifted on the chainrings, (Full DA triple drivetrain) and it really, REALLY liked to be squeeky clean all the time, otherwise it was a bit noisy on the largest (Ti) cogs on my DA cassette. Went back to a DA chain, and think it's smoother, quieter, but noticably heavier.


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## drewmcg (Sep 19, 2005)

Not sure how they compare with the sram and shimano offerings,but you can get a UN (ultra narrow) Veloce for $32 (shipped) at probikekit.com

This chain performs very, very well (at least on campy cassettes, and on the one sram r9 cassette--respaced to campy 10 spacing--that I use it with.

Since center-to-center spacing of shimano 10-speed cassettes (3.95mm) is actually narrower than campy 10-spd cassettes (4.12mm), I'd think that the thinner campy chains (5.9mm) would have an advantage in terms of shifting, etc., over the 6.1mm shimano 10-spd chains.

Sram road chains have a a very good reputation (and are virtually as narrow as campy un), but pricey. I've had excellent results with the 8-spd and 9-spd chains, but have not used their 10-speed chains.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Seems like*



Argentius said:


> Ti chains?
> 
> Why does that seem like a bad idea...


Have to disagree. It doesn't seem like a bad idea. It IS a bad idea. A really, really, really bad idea. They've been around for decades, but I suspect they are just 'there' for the gee whiz factor, because the performance stinks on several levels.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

As I've posted elsewhere, the KMC DX10 S/C (5.88mm wide) works great on both Shimano and Campy 10. While heavier than the SL, it's about half the price.

My Centaur equipped bike with the KMC is the quietest bike I own, including my fixed gear's. Shifts great and at 1000 miles no appreciable wear. Regardless, I'll replace it at 2000 based upon our shop experience with 10 speed drivetrains. 10 speed cassettes are just too expensive.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*false economy...*



Richard said:


> As I've posted elsewhere, the KMC DX10 S/C (5.88mm wide) works great on both Shimano and Campy 10. While heavier than the SL, it's about half the price.
> 
> My Centaur equipped bike with the KMC is the quietest bike I own, including my fixed gear's. Shifts great and at 1000 miles no appreciable wear. Regardless, I'll replace it at 2000 based upon our shop experience with 10 speed drivetrains. 10 speed cassettes are just too expensive.


So you're willing to buy at least 7 chains to get 15,000 miles from a cassette, while I choose to frequently lube and rotate three chains to get the same mileage. If chains cost $40, then you've spent $280 on chains, while I've spent $120 and got the same cassette life.

Tossing chains when they're half worn won't extend cassette life much, if any. You'll probably get chain skip before you get to the 7th chain. Putting new chains on well used cassettes is asking for skipping. Even a slightly used chain from a rotated group won't skip.

Next time you're ready to toss a perfectly good chain, check the elongation (with a scale not a worthless Park chain checker), then check the distance between the rollers. Mine will check about .215- .220 inch after 2000 miles. The rollers are good for .240, or 5-6,000 miles, in my case.


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## abqhudson (Sep 8, 2004)

*Kmc X10sl*

Add me to the list.

KMC X10SL is the best for my campy drivetrain - quietest and smoothest.

Jim


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

C-40 said:


> So you're willing to buy at least 7 chains to get 15,000 miles from a cassette, while I choose to frequently lube and rotate three chains to get the same mileage. If chains cost $40, then you've spent $280 on chains, while I've spent $120 and got the same cassette life.


First off, I don't pay $40 for my chains (yes, a benefit of working in a bike shop.) But I clean and lube them frequently.

Second, I have two sets of wheels each with its own cassette. I switch off regularly between flat and hilly rides. I also ride my Campy 8 speed bike a lot and that stuff is a lot more durable than 10 speed.

Finally, I commute on a fixed gear.

With that scenario, it'll probably take me five years to spend $280 on chains.:thumbsup:


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*the point..*

The real point is regardless of what you pay, changing chains when they are half worn doubles your cost. If you recommend changif chain at 2000 miles becasue you can't figure out if they are worn, then you're giving customers poor advice.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

C-40 said:


> The real point is regardless of what you pay, changing chains when they are half worn doubles your cost. If you recommend changif chain at 2000 miles becasue you can't figure out if they are worn, then you're giving customers poor advice.


I leave chain and cassette replacement recommendations to our service manager who has 35 years experience.

What I do on my own bikes is a different story.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I'm honestly surprised that, "Which chain is the stiffest?" question wasn't asked. I'm also wondering how long it'll be before some yahoo comes out with a carbon fiber chain.


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## rmsmith (Feb 15, 2007)

The Wipperman Connex 10S1 Stainless Steel Chain is German made quality. Add a bottle of Dumonde Tech Bicycle Chain Lubrication you'll be short $100.00. I have two of them, so I can clean the unmounted chain when I feel like it. It's only money!


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## Bandit390 (Nov 13, 2006)

Would the baove chains do just as good with a different rear and crank? For example a 10 speed shimano ultegra rear and bontrager race crank. Or should I be looking to get a different chain"


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## Tlaloc (May 12, 2005)

z ken said:


> i know Wiperman chain is lighter than D/A, Campy or Srams but isn't as durable.


I have found the Wiperman stainless steel chains to be very long-lasting. Having a master link contributes to this because you can easily remove the chain from the bike to clean and re-lubricate it.


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## 2wheel-lee (Apr 23, 2007)

C-40 said:


> The real point is regardless of what you pay, changing chains when they are half worn doubles your cost. If you recommend changif chain at 2000 miles becasue you can't figure out if they are worn, then you're giving customers poor advice.


I'm with Richard. So you use a chain until it's fully worn? I don't like riding on worn-out equipment (you know, the last ride you do just before you replace a chain?) Seems scary to me. Long ago, I learned that chains never break at a good time. It's usually when you're standing and torquing the on the cranks. And when chains break, so often does skin, body parts, and other bike parts. I've learned that from experience as well.

As a result, I replace chains before they are excessively worn. Also, because the chains are replaced frequently, cassettes and chain rings last considerably longer. I'll gladly spend a few more dollars on chains for the peace of mind that I'm not likely to have a chain failure and the potential injuries related with that.

I own and use chain checking tools, so I know when I'm near the chain's half life. Unlike Richard, I don't work in a shop, so I pay retail (well, unless I can get the chains on sale, and I buy a few). Besides, to me, riding with a new chain almost feels like riding a new bike. And who doesn't like riding new bikes?


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## drewmcg (Sep 19, 2005)

I'm 220lbs and ride hard, and have never broken a road chain (even 10-spd). (I have broken mountain bike chains plenty--never resulting in a fall, but some long walks.)

I don't think it follows that running a well-maintained, quality chain for 4k miles significantly increases its risk of breaking, so long as the chain measures w/in spec.

In the Campy world, at least, cassettes are expensive (3 or 4 times the cost of a chain for a Chorus cassette with Veloce chain -- my preference-- for example). So rotating chains as C-40 recommends definitely makes a lot of economic sense.

Of course, the issue of chain rotation and when to throw a chain out are not linked (excuse the pun). You could rotate 7 chains and still get 14k miles from the cassette with 7 chains, each tossed after 2k miles (say, rotated every 600 or 700 miles). In my experience, putting a new chain on a 5k miles cassette is asking for chain skip, especially on the smaller cogs.

I'm following the C-40 plan, and rotating chains every 1k miles (easy number to remember), using three chains. At my weight, I'll be glad to get 12k miles out of the three chains and cassette. But if I break a chain, then I'll re-evaluate!


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

rmsmith said:


> The Wipperman Connex 10S1 Stainless Steel Chain is German made quality. Add a bottle of Dumonde Tech Bicycle Chain Lubrication you'll be short $100.00. I have two of them, so I can clean the unmounted chain when I feel like it. It's only money!


German made quality??? What's that? I've owned 3 German cars, and still have one. IMO/IME German engineering my ass!


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