# Wizard Restore



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Meet the Wizard. My Dad ordered it from Baylis and Howard in '72ish and put the parts together kind of hodge podge afterwards. This thread is mostly for me to document and share the progress of my attempt at a restoration/rebuild. I'll try and update it whenever I'm done with something major. I'm trying to keep it relatively cheap which shouldn't be too hard since I'm planning on keeping most of the parts.

Wizard frame handbuilt by Brian Baylis and Mike Howard
Wheels are Shimano hubs laced to Super Champion Gentleman rims
Suntour Cyclone rear derailleur
Shimano 105 front derailleur
Campagnolo 52/44 crank
Suntour barcons
Shimano non-aero brake levers
Shimano Dura Ace brakes
Campagnolo headset
Campagnolo pedals
Campagnolo cable clips, pump spike, and downtube cable stop
3TTT Stem and Handlebars
??? seatpost, looks like a double bolt
Unicanitor saddle
Titanium seatpost binder bolt designed and machined by Dad's buddy (possibly stripped, I hope not)
































































I stripped some of the parts yesterday. Starting to see the full extent of the surface rust and paint chips.






































I'm not sure how to treat the rust. I've read a couple things about Oxalic Acid or copper wool and oil. The main thing is not to damage the paint before I do the touch up. Suggestions?

I need to clean the gunk from the old bartape off the handlebars, clean the chain, chainrings, cogs, derailleurs, clear the rust off all the chromed parts, repack the headset, bottom bracket, and hubs.

I need to get the wheels rebuilt, the spokes are so loose they are practically flapping in the wind. I'm guessing 

I'm thinking about replacing the brake levers with aero and getting new brakes. I need new tires, toe clips and straps, bar tape, and maybe a new saddle. I'm going to keep the wheels, crankset, Barcons (the rubber is sticky anybody know a fix?), and the derailleurs I have.

That's all for now!


----------



## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

Looks like a very cool project. I look forward to the progress.


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Very very nice......

It looks like a lot of those scratches will rub out...Go to an autoparts store and look in the paint section for swirl remover or polishing compound...

you could probably come close to matching that paint with automotive touchup that comes in the little bottles

I love that saddle...any idea what type?


----------



## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

Don't see those too often. Very Masi-esque.
I like it!
Dave
KC


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Thanks guys.

I don't recall what the saddle is. It says Made in Mexico and I think the name is worn off. I'll check when I get home.

I was wondering if polishing compound would be safe to use on the paint. Thanks for the tip.

I'm still not sure what the best way to attack the rust spots would be before I do paint touchup.


----------



## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

I agree with Hickey. Many of those spots will rub out with abrasive wax or polishing compound then wax(eg the white scrape on the chainstay). I would then make sure you you remove any existing wax before applying ANY touchup paint so be careful what order you go in and what your "polishes" contain. I think Naval jelly is the strongest I would go to remove the rust. You can keep that contained to small areas that are chipped. 
With those small chips, I think you can do without any primer - based on the small exposure area. Find a car or truck with a similar color and look for touch up paint at your local auto parts store. You might be able to spray it from a can into a small lid and brush it on if that's the only way you can get it. I would not go outside the lines on these small chips.
Another option is model paints from the hobby store. Those are easier to mix custom colors with. Either way, just make sure you match the metallic content and go with thin layers and stay in the lines. Subsequent layers can be color-tweaked that way. Once you have three or more layers, the color will start to appear as it will be - it's translucent at first. Primer would lighten the underlying surface and would change the way your top coats look as they build. BUT primer around the edge of a chip is hard to blend and conceal.
JMO,
Dave
KC


----------



## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

didn't you post some pics of this quite a while ago?....Are you just now getting around to starting the project?. 

I love the bike.....take yout time and get it the way you want it!


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Yeah, it's been about two years since the last time I considered tackling it.

Recently I've been itching for something to work on with my hands. I thought about buying an 80s/90s steel bike and turning it into a commuter/round town bike, but since I already have the Wizard and it was built to be ridden and not just looked at I figured I would build it up the way I want with just a few modern parts (tires, brakes, levers).

I'm fixing up the rust and paint mostly so it will prevent future corrosion. I want this bike to last as long for me as it did for my Dad (bad knees, doesn't ride any more).

Plus, I think it's going to look plain ol' pretty once it is done.


----------



## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

That's a tall bike, I think. I'm jealous.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

The saddle is a unicanitor (hecho en Mexico).

Pretty tall bike, about 62cm seat tube ctc. The top tube is about an inch shorter than that.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

So the stem appears to be stuck. Can't budge it, though I'm not trying too hard.

Advice?


----------



## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

Which part is stuck?

If you loosen the bolt, and it is sticking up above the stem, then the bottom piece (expander?) is probably stuck, and I have taken a mallet, and smack the end of the hex bolt to get it free. 

If that is not the problem, then it could be Galvanic Corrosion. Google search "galvanic corrosion". Aluminum, and Steel create a very strong bond. I had to deal with that on a seat post in a steel frame. Another member here on RBR suggested Ammonia, and it worked great. I just socked it for like 20 minutes, and it came loose. Be careful though, I have herd that ammonia can eat the aluminum, and you probably dont want to ruin your stem.


----------



## Wizard Mike (Sep 14, 2009)

*Wizard Mike*

Mike Howard here. Really pleased to see one of the old Wizards come out of the closet (garage) to be given some TLC. Just recently restored mine and it is now my favorite bike I ever built. Given that I have built upwards of 20,000 frames that is saying something. To see pictures of mine go to: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/?saved=1 .

Brian Baylis and I have started a new project, we are building ten new "35th Anniversary Issue Wizard" frames. Five have already sold. For more info on that go to: 
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?re...The-Complete-Wizard-Story/137478290189?ref=mf
Hope these links work it is my first post on this site. If not you can copy and paste. In the meantime Bane if you need any help restoration wise (I am very good at stem and seatpost removal) email me at: 
[email protected] 
Would love to give you a hand if you are in LA or OC county area we can go for a Wizard ride sometime. BTW what serial number is that frame? I wonder if I remember your father?? Email me off list and I will send you some more Wizard info.

Mike


----------



## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

VERY COOL.... OP, you want info.......looks to me like you managed to find EVERYTHING you might need....Welcome to our corner of the net Mr. Wizard


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Hey Mike! Thanks for posting.

The stem is stuck such that the allen bolt is sticking up above the stem. Hopefully it's not corroded. I'll take a whack at it tonight.


Pun intended.


----------



## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

have BB refinish it?


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

FatTireFred said:


> have BB refinish it?


Only if it is a charity job or you're planning on paying for it.

I am relatively poor (as in there's not a lot of money budgeted for bicycles). This is a project to keep my hands busy while I watch football, not an attempt to bring the bike back to "as new" condition. I want it to be every day rideable, not showroom pristine.

I may have mis-used the word Restore in the thread title.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

One hour, some triple-ought steel wool, a little light oil, and some sore fingers netted me one less rusty than it used to be pedal. The other is there for comparison. Looks a lot better than when I started, but I don't think I'll be able to get all of the rust.

Also got the lbs to remove the freewheel today. I might, maybe, just maybe, buy a new freewheel with hyperglide type shifting aids. I could always use better shifting.

Grease in the headset is dry as a bone. I'm guessing it's going to be the same story in the bottom bracket though I haven't gotten that apart yet.

Good times.


----------



## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

quick note, try a dremel with BRASS brushes for the hard to get to spots (they make them with end bristles, I think they call them cup brushes? (miniature)

the steel would be too aggressive unless you had a VERY light touch


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Well crap. Looks to me like the cones are pretty badly scored. Might have been sand in the bearings. This bike does live at the beach.




















So, are the cones dead? Don't worry about it and just repack the bearings? Any advice?

I'm pretty bummed. I had hoped that the wheels would be something that I could service and forget about. However, they aren't super fancy hubs. Regular Shimano, doesn't say what model just the S logo and a small D D either side of the oil hole.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

And just like that I found a pair Nuovo Record 36-hole high flange hubs.


----------



## brblue (Jan 28, 2003)

bane said:


> Well crap. Looks to me like the cones are pretty badly scored. Might have been sand in the bearings. This bike does live at the beach.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Congrats to your new find. I think you an reuse the original cones too... I'm usually scared off by pitting on the races.. scratches like those will be flat smooth after some usage. So, if the balls don't come out and the cones stay tight during the ride, I'd say use them until they rot off...


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Handlebars 3ttt mod. Record Superleggero with 3ttt stem. Shiny.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

The wheels have been built! Here are some pictures.







































And now a question. The seat post is slightly loose even with the binder bolt tightened as much as possible. There is no more space in between the two sides of the notch at the top of the seat tube. The seat post I have is not marked with a size. Anyone know what size seat post this bike should take? If not I'm going to get it measured at the lbs. In addition, do I need to spread out the two sides of the seat post clamp? Here's a picture, fuzzy, of the area when the seat post binder bolt is loose showing the two sides of the seat post clamp pressed together.


----------



## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

good idea taking it to the LBS to have them measure using calipers. take your current post too so they know what size won't work. they could possibly try a couple sizes too with posts they have have lying around. and yes, loosen the bolts before measuring the inside diameter of the tube.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Apparently it should take a 27.2 so I tried that. The 27.2 post I have definitely does not fit in the seat tube so I think it needs to massaged back into shape.


----------



## brblue (Jan 28, 2003)

bane said:


> Apparently it should take a 27.2 so I tried that. The 27.2 post I have definitely does not fit in the seat tube so I think it needs to massaged back into shape.


You can use the current posts' end to spread the seat tube end. check the cut in the seat tube in order not to overspread it..


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

The bike takes a 27.0 seatpost apparently (that's what fits). A 27.2 would only go down about an inch and a half before getting stuck, even after cleaning and filing for burrs so I swapped it for a 27.0 and that fits snug and proper.

That means I have all the parts to put it together. However, just the other day I started thinking how a suntour cyclone FD would look better to match the old 105 FD I currently have for it.

Still need to treat rust, polish, and wax the frame.


----------



## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

The Wizard is about a cleaned up as I can get it. I think it looks pretty nice and the spin around the block was nice. It rides really smoothly. Suntour cyclone gt rear derailleur, bar end shifters, shimano 105 front derailleur, dura ace brakes and levers, 6 speed 12-28 freewheel, campagnolo nuovo record crank, high flange hubs, super champion gentleman rims, generic seatpost, unicanitor seat, 3TTT bars and stem


----------



## cobrapatrol (May 18, 2010)

Your Wizard looks great, I'm am so jelous. It's great that it fits you. That bike is one of the top American-built bikes from an age when craftsmanship mattered. Best wishes for a long and happy relationship with your bike!

Jim


----------



## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Thanks for the update.......absolutely beautiful!


----------



## High Gear (Mar 9, 2002)

Very nice. I love seeing this kind of thing. Son brings dad's vintage lightweight back to life. Your dad must have been really into cycling to order a frame like that.


----------



## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

very cool. looks like it's ready for it's ready for the road. :thumbsup:


----------

