# Should I rebuild my ca. 1988 Bianchi Superleggera? Suggestions?



## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

It is in the second link in my sig.

I got it in Feb of 1988, so it is either 1987 or 1988. The frame cracked and they replaced it, somewhere around 1989. The original rear wheel was replaced with some sort of shimano rim/hub. The rest of it is original stuff. However, I don't find it very comfortable to ride now, and don't think it is worth that much as a museum piece. The frame is great, and measures fairly similar to my recent custom frame. This gave me the idea of replacing the wheels and maybe getting one of the lower-level Crampy groups like Veloce or Athena with a compact crank and forgiving gearing, and some more ergonomic brakes. However, I have to work within the confines of the original frame geometry.

Is this a fool's errand, or an opportunity to breathe some new life into an old companion? I've been off my current bike for a couple of weeks due to a wheel repair, and it had me thinking I should have some backup wheels. That progressed into thinking I should have a backup bike, so ... here we are.

In summary, I am thinking I would need:

(1) A new wheelset. It doesn't have to be high-end, but I want something reliable.
(2) An entry-level Crampy groupo.
(3) New (quill) stem and bars that ergonomically don't suck and match the "ethos" of the bike.

What say you?

Edit: an alternate, more conservative approach:

(1) Keep current wheels and drivetrain and friction shifting, and get a good replacement crank (the current one is Gipemme, not Campy) like this, with the gearing of choice: ROAD CRANKS — White Industries
(2) New stem and bars, and some sort of ergonomically acceptable brake-only levers, like these: Brake Levers (The current brakes are Modolo and kind of suck.)


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## Easyup (Feb 26, 2012)

That is a nice looking Bianchi but I am not clear on the "ethos" (appeal to ethics), for me it is more "pathos or logos" (appeal to emotion or logic). Anyway, it is valuable to have a second ride so you're on the right track but only you can tell if the minor changes you are suggesting will deliver what's needed to revitalize the Bianchi. I keep vintage iron in the best shape I can but only ride them out of my normal routes due to weaker braking, DT shifting taking a hand off the bars, etc. I have 80s Italians running 8, 9 & 10 speed Campy & Shimano which I will take anywhere. Some might say I have stomped on the ethos/pathos but to me they are perfect.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Sorry, you are right. Anyway, I want to keep some semblance of aesthetic continuity. My priorities are better braking (my other bike has hydraulic discs, upon which I have become very dependent), lower gearing and perhaps a more forgiving geometry.


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## Easyup (Feb 26, 2012)

I understand and commiserate. If you find the brake set you are looking for please re-post. I have a custom Renolds 753 I love to look at and fits well but between the DT shifting and the vintage brakes (even with koolstop salmon) with my weak grip it keeps me from riding it.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

It is what initially motivated me to get a new custom bike with hydraulic brakes and Di2, after breaking my ankle.

My average ride here is > ±100 ft/mi (up and down, closed loop, often 10%+ grades). I find going downhill harder than going uphill.

At the moment, I've turned it into a Fredrico Bianchi, with butterfly bars and mountain bike brake levers. It is an improvement, but only incremental, and at the cost of turning it into a clown bike.

These might be interesting, but they are shockingly ugly: https://www.magura.com/en/bike/prod.../rim-brakes/allgemein/rt6-tt-2/allgemein.html
I also have a ca. 2001 commuter bike with Magura hydraulic brakes, and it is a bit underwhelming. Hopefully they are improved since then.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

I just ordered some Nitto bars and Origin8 brake levers. Neither are very expensive, and will at least give me an idea for how much (or little) upgrading I might need to do. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO9M7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F6M9C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## warren128 (Jul 30, 2004)

I went through a similar process when deciding what to do with my 1987 Raleigh Team Replica (Reynolds 531C frameset). I decided to build it as my #2 ride, and opted for a Campagnolo Centaur drivetrain (compact 50/34 with 10 speed 13-29 cassette, and modern dual pivot brakeset), Nitto Noodle bars, and Campy Khamsin wheelset. I absolutely love the fact that I can ride it regularly now, where before it was as you say, uncomfortable to ride even though it had the period correct Campy Record and C-Record stuff on it.

I say for your Bianchi, go for the complete transformation!


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

That looks beautiful. How do you like the brakes?


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## warren128 (Jul 30, 2004)

wgscott said:


> That looks beautiful. How do you like the brakes?


I like the new brakes a lot, strong and positive.


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## Jon D (Apr 11, 2011)

FWIW if you want to build a second bike you can ride like your primary but with an old school feel, modern Campy to stay Italian [Athena if you want old school look], Wheels go where you want but consider a custom built set where you can get looks and performance [i.e. white industry's hubs with a polished rim]. That will give you the best of both worlds. I built up something similar but with a modern Colnago Master frame. Absolutely love the way the bike rides, not the same as modern performance carbon etc but still fun to ride.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

That sounds great. Do you have a photo?

My new bike is steel too, so I won't be missing carbon.


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## Jon D (Apr 11, 2011)

wgscott said:


> That sounds great. Do you have a photo?
> 
> My new bike is steel too, so I won't be missing carbon.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

That looks beautiful. Nicely done!


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

wgscott said:


> It is what initially motivated me to get a new custom bike with hydraulic brakes and Di2, after breaking my ankle.
> 
> My average ride here is > ±100 ft/mi (up and down, closed loop, often 10%+ grades). I find going downhill harder than going uphill.
> 
> ...


Hey man, if you want to call it a "Fredrico" Bianchi, better put deep drop handlebars on that old lady! Eduardo would be rolling over in his grave seeing more upright bars on a bike originally designed for drop bars. Screws up fore-aft balance! [or maybe not! ]


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Fredrico said:


> Hey man, if you want to call it a "Fredrico" Bianchi, better put deep drop handlebars on that old lady! Eduardo would be rolling over in his grave seeing more upright bars on a bike originally designed for drop bars. Screws up fore-aft balance! [or maybe not! ]


It rides like a pig with butterfly bars. It's a failed experiment, nothing more. (Hence the .... uh, name, by which of course I don't mean, well, you know ...)


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

wgscott said:


> It rides like a pig with butterfly bars. It's a failed experiment, nothing more. (Hence the .... uh, name, by which of course I don't mean, well, you know ...)


I'll let that last bit pass.  I went with the tried and true and stuck with it. The body held up fine! No experiments at my age! :nono: My last "upgrade" was modern Can Creek brake levers. Aero levers were just coming in by the late 80s, so the rig is still period correct.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

I put the butterfly bars on backward for extra bike nerd points. It was fine on the trainer for watching tv. Not so fine for real riding.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

wgscott said:


> I put the butterfly bars on backward for extra bike nerd points. It was fine on the trainer for watching tv. Not so fine for real riding.


I guess that would have placed the steering leverage at odd points for straight ahead control. I couldn't get anything out of a beach cruiser I rented in Nag's Head, NC. Handlebars way too wide! I couldn't steady myself on the seat when pedaling hard, so forgot it; didn't pedal hard. A very disappointing experience.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Loads of people love these bars (aka trekking bars) for touring, esp in Europe. I thought it was worth a try.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

wgscott said:


> Loads of people love these bars (aka trekking bars) for touring, esp in Europe. I thought it was worth a try.


/Sure! 3 hand positions, 2 forward extensions. For more upright riding, street modified MTBs, et. al. that could work, couldn't it, for those who haven't tried drop bars.  

On the cruiser bike, I had no leverage holding next to the stem, so hands were stuck in one position out on the grips, way too wide! That's probably what you want riding on compacted sand, come to think of it.


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## hfc (Jan 24, 2003)

Wow if I'd have seen this thread a few days ago I would have tried to talk you out of a rebuild and buy the (hopefully right size) frame from you. I just overspent to get a smaller SLX frame to replace my too big for me 89 Giro. 

I support getting these classic bikes back out on the road. The modern Campy Athena and Veloce groups are supposed to be pretty affordable from the British websites. If you want to stay original, a 7 speed Athena or Chorus group from Ebay will set you back about $300. The older groups with the 42 tooth small chainring make for some hard climbing. I have a few old steel bikes which I ride regularly on the local hills but our averages are only about 60 fpm. 

Here's my Bianchi the day I brought her home, hopefully soon will look just the same only a little smaller!


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Beautiful bike. Looks like the original saddle too. (I have that, except it is blue for some reason.) I think your frame is much larger than mine.


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## hfc (Jan 24, 2003)

Yeah, the bike is all original as bought except for the tires and the freewheel. Broke my heart that I couldn't make it fit. Luckily I was able to find what looks to be the exact same frame. This one has 59 cm top tube and the new one 56. I really wanted to keep the original bike together but this will be a good alternative.


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## L_Johnny (Jul 15, 2006)

I use the Noodle bar on a steel bike as well and I do like it quite a bit. It has the right amount of flex 
That Bianchi is on my list of bikes to get.


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## JaeP (Mar 12, 2002)

warren128 said:


> I went through a similar process when deciding what to do with my 1987 Raleigh Team Replica (Reynolds 531C frameset). I decided to build it as my #2 ride, and opted for a Campagnolo Centaur drivetrain (compact 50/34 with 10 speed 13-29 cassette, and modern dual pivot brakeset), Nitto Noodle bars, and Campy Khamsin wheelset. I absolutely love the fact that I can ride it regularly now, where before it was as you say, uncomfortable to ride even though it had the period correct Campy Record and C-Record stuff on it.
> 
> I say for your Bianchi, go for the complete transformation!


Love the NItto Noodle bars. I have one on my Colnago Export. In my advanced age I couldn't handle the deep drop and long brakehood reach of a period correct Cinelli Campione Del Mundo bar.


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

I am building up a 1988 Bianchi Superleggera right now. It was built up with spare parts by the previous owner. The basic cockpit is original though. Beautiful Ambrosio bars, Cinelli stem and Campy chorus brake levers. I purchased a Velo Orange vintage style compact crankset and a new bottom bracket so I could actually climb a hill or two. I am also going with H Plus Sons TB 14 rims laced to vintage Campy hubs with 7 speed 14-28 freewheel. It will look vintage but ride a bit better. Hoping to ride an L'eroica event on it when I retire in 2017.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Mine came with a Modolo stem, which I think has been recalled. The brakes are also Modolo, which are ok but I would like something better at stopping the bike. Maybe that was the 1987 model had (I got it in Feb 1988)? My original (and current) crank is Gipemme. 53/47. This was fine when I was 25.


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

You are correct. I did read somewhere that the bike had a Modolo Stem. The Cinelli stem is not original either. Here are the parts I have collected so far.


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## hrstrat57 (Mar 16, 2008)

hfc said:


> Wow if I'd have seen this thread a few days ago I would have tried to talk you out of a rebuild and buy the (hopefully right size) frame from you. I just overspent to get a smaller SLX frame to replace my too big for me 89 Giro.
> 
> I support getting these classic bikes back out on the road. The modern Campy Athena and Veloce groups are supposed to be pretty affordable from the British websites. If you want to stay original, a 7 speed Athena or Chorus group from Ebay will set you back about $300. The older groups with the 42 tooth small chainring make for some hard climbing. I have a few old steel bikes which I ride regularly on the local hills but our averages are only about 60 fpm.
> 
> Here's my Bianchi the day I brought her home, hopefully soon will look just the same only a little smaller!


wiI have the exact bike! giro with full Campy Chorus 7 speed. she's just a tad small but that Columbus frame set is magical.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

bigjohnla said:


> View attachment 312919
> You are correct. I did read somewhere that the bike had a Modolo Stem. The Cinelli stem is not original either. Here are the parts I have collected so far.


They might have replaced it with a Cinelli when it was recalled. Anyway, that is a great restoration project.


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

wgscott said:


> They might have replaced it with a Cinelli when it was recalled. Anyway, that is a great restoration project.


YEP, I have been looking for a frame for a good long while. I was lucky to find a complete bike for the price I was willing to pay for just a frame. I am having a blast working on it so far. I love Bianchi bikes. Saw my first one as a kid and wanted one ever since. I own a carbon Infinito already. But, I still wanted a steel frame for that classic ride and that sleek small tube look. Once my wife recovers from this build, I am going to try for the Trifecta. An aluminum Mercatone Uno Pantani replica


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

I started the first steps of the transformation, i.e., the handlebars and brake levers. I decided to start out modestly, with a new stem (which is ugly and will likely get an upgrade), Nitto bars and some ergonomically-designed yet reasonably inexpensive Origin8 brake levers. The aim here is to have the same reach when riding the hoods and same back angle as I have on my currently more comfortable bike. The Brooks saddle is actually a woman's saddle I bought for my wife, but I agreed to do some of the initial break-in for her, and it gives me a chance to assess how I like it on the Bianchi (out of the box it is quite comfortable). So here are two before and one after picture. Try not to laugh at my mess in the garage.

View attachment 312956


View attachment 312957


View attachment 312958


I still have the original bars but can't get them out of the Modollo stem (which I don't want to re-use, and has been recalled). I like the shape of the Nitto bars better. Since I am going for ride comfort > authentic restoration, this will do. I need to get some cork tape. Celeste or something dark? The Celeste seems to attract dirt quite quickly. Maybe dark blue to match the decals?










If the braking is significantly improved, and the levers are comfortable, I will probably sink some money into a Crampy groupo. But this at the very least should be a proof of principle (or not).


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## warren128 (Jul 30, 2004)

Looking really nice so far!

Have you looked into Nitto Technomic stems? You can get some pretty long ones to help with the bar height and avoid that ugly looking stem you have now.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Yeah, I saw them when I bought the handlebars. I figured I would get the rest of it set up, make sure I am comfortable with the geometry, re-measure, and then buy the right stem. 

As ugly as the current one is, I wonder if it might be less likely to injure me in an accident if the family jewels come to rest near the stem. The Nitto ones I looked at are all 70° angled.

Edit: Just found a 90 one: Nitto Dynamic 2 Quill Stem 110 - 25.4 - Ben's Cycle


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

wgscott said:


> Yeah, I saw them when I bought the handlebars. I figured I would get the rest of it set up, make sure I am comfortable with the geometry, re-measure, and then buy the right stem.
> 
> As ugly as the current one is, I wonder if it might be less likely to injure me in an accident if the family jewels come to rest near the stem. The Nitto ones I looked at are all 70° angled.
> 
> Edit: Just found a 90 one: Nitto Dynamic 2 Quill Stem 110 - 25.4 - Ben's Cycle


Get rid of the ugly stem and go with one that's got some style. A Technomic, as warren128 mentions, will go a long way in improving the looks of the bike. A whack in the nuts is gonna hurt no matter what kind of stem, and shouldn't be used to decide how to build the bike.

Besides, how many times have you landed those things on a bicycles stem anyhow?


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Good point, and I already have 3 children. At least I don't have stem shifters.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Can someone double-check me on this?

I need the horizontal distance to be 90 mm from the center of the handlebar clamp to the (projected) center of the quill, and the vertical length of the stem to be long enough to allow 140 mm of exposed height. Is this the correct one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Technom..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1YRGJ4RGMSC2CR4ZT2MY

It says "Stem length: 90 mm, Stem Angle: 72°, 125mm range from minimum insertion to max insertion; 160mm from minimum insertion to top of quill"

I assume the the 160 mm minimum insertion length is what I want, since I want 140 mm exposed. But I wouldn't mind a reality check.

(The bars I just bought are Nitto - Noodle 177, 44cm 26.0mm, Silver, Alloy).

While you are at it, dark blue cork bar tape, or Celeste?


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## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

Cinelli makes a denim blue cork tape that would work well.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

GKSki said:


> Cinelli makes a denim blue cork tape that would work well.


Thanks. That is the one I had in mind. (I tried to buy it locally today, but no luck, and Amazon has it for $15.) I've got the Cinelli Celeste cork tape on my other (i.e., the original) set of drop bars and it is quite nice, but gets dirty quickly.)

My next target of opportunity is the crank. I'm looking at the White Industries road crank, since I can put pretty much any set of chainrings on there that suit me. Too bad it costs as much as a child's bicycle. But they do look nice...


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

wgscott said:


> Can someone double-check me on this?
> 
> I need the horizontal distance to be 90 mm from the center of the handlebar clamp to the (projected) center of the quill, and the vertical length of the stem to be long enough to allow 140 mm of exposed height. Is this the correct one to get?
> 
> ...


I just did a fast dirty check and it looked to be about 155 from the top of the stem to the top of the danger line. I didn't bother to wipe the grease from the stem because I stuck it right back on the bike, to explain the fast and dirty nature of the check. I did swipe the grease off the danger line to get a good eye on that though.

You'll get your 140 easy. I think that I'd be comfortable stretching it to the 160 the seller states.

I'd go with blue tape, but don't go by me, I'm not a fan of celeste.


Edited twice, and I ain't gonna edit it no more.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

I ordered it yesterday and 2 day shipping from Amazon prime turned into one day shipping somehow.

Here is how it looks. The stem doesn't go down as far as I wanted it to, but I think it will be ok.

View attachment 312992











View attachment 312993











View attachment 312995


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Thanks to bigjohnla, I am now looking at this crank as the next tweak:










The small front crank would enable me to keep the current rear wheel, freewheel, etc., at least for now, and still have nice low wuss gearing.


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## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

Are you sure that stem is in at least to minimum insertion?


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

No. I am not at all sure.

I shoved it in until it didn't go any further, but I should probably play around with it. I want to pull it out anyway because one of the brake cables is on the wrong side.

Edit: Just checked it. It is at 150 mm. It is rated to 160 mm. I would like to have it at 140 mm.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Here's another option with the same gearing for about the same price. Which one should I get?










This one looks a wee bit nicer.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

wgscott said:


> Here's another option with the same gearing for about the same price. Which one should I get?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've got that one on my Boulder All Road and am quite happy with it. I'm running it with a Campagnolo Chorus 11spd group and haven't had an issue with about 2500 miles logged.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

That's exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks!


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