# Small parts



## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

When I was taking pics of the MXL yesterday, it was the first time I really looked at it. It is only a frame. There are no small parts on it anywhere. I plan on moving over a 9 speed Ultegra group off my Trek, but I realized that the two frames are hardly the same specs all the way around and I'll need some extra stuff to make it work. 

I know all the obvious stuff like the bottom bracket, headset, stem, etc. Can I use a clamp on front derailler on a frame built for braze on by taking off the clamp? But I'm sure I'm missing other little things that will drive me crazy during the build up. I want to get as much of this stuff in before the build starts as I can. Otherwise it will be never ending trips the LBS, who won't have any of it in stock. 

The two I can think of right now are a seatpost binder bolt and cable stops with barrel adjusters. Anything else little I'm missing? Brake bolts and nuts maybe (recessed vs nutted)? I'm sure there's gotta be something.


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## Guest (Mar 11, 2008)

innergel said:


> When I was taking pics of the MXL yesterday, it was the first time I really looked at it. It is only a frame. There are no small parts on it anywhere. I plan on moving over a 9 speed Ultegra group off my Trek, but I realized that the two frames are hardly the same specs all the way around and I'll need some extra stuff to make it work.
> 
> I know all the obvious stuff like the bottom bracket, headset, stem, etc. Can I use a clamp on front derailler on a frame built for braze on by taking off the clamp? But I'm sure I'm missing other little things that will drive me crazy during the build up. I want to get as much of this stuff in before the build starts as I can. Otherwise it will be never ending trips the LBS, who won't have any of it in stock.
> 
> The two I can think of right now are a seatpost binder bolt and cable stops with barrel adjusters. Anything else little I'm missing? Brake bolts and nuts maybe (recessed vs nutted)? I'm sure there's gotta be something.


You already have the Bottom bracket cable guide,

You will need:

Seat post binder bolt
Down tube cable stops
Cable end reducers ( two for the top tube and 1 for the rear derailleur cable on the chainstay)
See if you can find a Braided steel rear derailleur cable loop - always looks nicer than just a black length of housing.
Depending on the length of the steer tube on the fork you may need spacers.
cable end caps
bolts for the bottle bosses ( the Bolt House or somewhere similar)

you need a braze on front derailleur


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## kjmunc (Sep 19, 2005)

+ 1 on the cable end reducers.....when you find the right size pick up a handful, as a lot of shops don't stock the right size for Merckx chainstays. I ran into this with my MXL build and it took me 3-4 shops before I found the right size.

Take a section of your cable housing with you so you can make sure the female end fits snugly as well, as many are too small.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

kjmunc said:


> + 1 on the cable end reducers.....when you find the right size pick up a handful, as a lot of shops don't stock the right size for Merckx chainstays. I ran into this with my MXL build and it took me 3-4 shops before I found the right size.
> 
> Take a section of your cable housing with you so you can make sure the female end fits snugly as well, as many are too small.


WTF is a cable end reducer? Can you post a pic of what I'm looking for. I searched at LooseScrews and in the QBP online catalog and didn't see them. I'll buy them if I can find them. Maybe I used the incorrect terms.


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## Guest (Mar 11, 2008)

innergel said:


> WTF is a cable end reducer? Can you post a pic of what I'm looking for. I searched at LooseScrews and in the QBP online catalog and didn't see them. I'll buy them if I can find them. Maybe I used the incorrect terms.


Where the rear brake cable enters the top tube, and exits the top tube you will need "reducers" to slip over the cable housing. They reduce the housing diameter to match the tube inlet and outlet pports.

Also, on the rear chainstay, you will see where the housing fits into a loop - there should be a reducer on that housing end at that point as well.


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## zmudshark (Jan 28, 2007)

I think they are like this:
http://bethelcycle.com/page.cfm?PageID=271&action=details&sku=BR1337


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## kjmunc (Sep 19, 2005)

Yep, exactly. Only problem is that there seems to have been no single standard size, and since they aren't in great demand any longer, most shops just have a random handful of them. 

The good news is that most shops I visited were willing to just give them too me if they were the right size.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

All right. I know what you are talking about now. They usually come in the package when you get new cables. I have to take the cables off that I just put on because I forgot to add them the first time. I figured they were all a standard size. I should know better than that. 

I've never run internally routed cables. I figured there would be some sort of rubber grommet that went into those input/output ports to keep the water/sweat out.


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## Marz (May 14, 2006)

toomanybikes said:


> Where the rear brake cable enters the top tube, and exits the top tube you will need "reducers" to slip over the cable housing. They reduce the housing diameter to match the tube inlet and outlet pports.
> 
> Also, on the rear chainstay, you will see where the housing fits into a loop - there should be a reducer on that housing end at that point as well.


On my MXL frame I just did a trial with some campagnolo outer brake housing and the housing slips right in. Would I still need reducers? I thought you need them when the housing stops and you run the bare cable.


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## KayTee (Jun 24, 2006)

Marz said:


> Would I still need reducers? I.


From my in-house wrench: No.


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## ctam (Apr 21, 2003)

I just tried the same thing with my MXL - the brake cable housing passes straight through both openings in the top tube. Reducers are not required.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

ctam said:


> I just tried the same thing with my MXL - the brake cable housing passes straight through both openings in the top tube. Reducers are not required.


Good news. Saves having to scrounge around a little bit.


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