# Anyone tried the Time iClic 2 pedals yet?



## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Apparently they have a more robust cleat, stainless steel on top of the pedal wear areas..and I don't know if any other improvements. I had the old version but they were not very durable. I might try the new ones because my knees do like Time pedals.


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

I just ordered a set of racers but the older version. What did you find wore out fast. Hoping I don't have buyers remorse not spending the extra $40 for the iclic2???


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

You should have gotten the 2s for the better cleats and pedal wear. Especially the cleats,


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## mattsavage (Apr 25, 2007)

Are the new cleats compatible with the older iclic? I go through about 1 pair a month. It would be nice if they, new ones, were more durable.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Yes they are.


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

Well I got my iclics in and gave them a once over and decided on sending them back for the iclic 2's. Did it for 3 main and what I believe very important changes. First is the addition of the metal friction plates adding longevity to the pedals life. Second is the beefed up rear of the pedal. If you examin the two versions you'll see the 2 is built up to now support the pressure of the trigger and carbon leaf. Lastly is the version 3 cleats. As the saying goes third times a charme. 
Hope I've made a good choice. Been a Time fan for a looong time and don't want tobe disappointed.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I really think you made the right choice getting the new ones..I didn't know that te rear I'd the pedals has been beefed up. I wonder if they fixed the false clip in problem too. If they did I will give them another try.


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

Ya check out the two pedals side by side. The new one has been beefed mostly in the middle. They got rid of that sharp slim fin that supported the trigger. From some of the pedal failures I saw that fin was ripped out. There is not much material holding that area together.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

They sure didn't do a very good job in the initial design as far as reliability goes. But I still prefer Time float over everything else..


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## enjoyliife (Feb 20, 2011)

*Pedal flip over*

I have the original iclics and have a problem with the pedals flipping over very easily and hence not being quick to clip in.

Is the Iclic 2 better in preventing this?

Is it somewhat opoerator error is there a trick in overcoming this?


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

_BikeRadar_ just did a big pedal-round-up article, and they voted the iClic2 'Best All-Around Pedals'.

Even said the new cleats are durable. Perhaps the issues of the iClic1 are finally put to rest.


Best Road Bike Pedals - BikeRadar
Time I-Clic 2 Racer Red Pedals Review - BikeRadar
.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

It takes practice. I have the same thing with lighter pedals like the iClics and Look Blades compared to Dura Ace which I am currently using. I think I'm going to give the iClic 2's a try. I switched because I didn't trust the original pedals not to break on me. I have knee issues anyway and Time pedals work better for me no matter how much fitting I do with Shimano cleats.



enjoyliife said:


> I have the original iclics and have a problem with the pedals flipping over very easily and hence not being quick to clip in.
> 
> Is the Iclic 2 better in preventing this?
> 
> Is it somewhat opoerator error is there a trick in overcoming this?


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I ordered the gray iClic 2's from Wiggle for $133 which seems like about the best price out there. No shipping charges either. I've never ordered from them before so we will see how it goes. I like the stronger steel axle over the carbons plus the gray color will match my Moots.  I'll report bike after riding them. Hopefully Time has also solved the false clip in problem too.
Wiggle | Time I Clic 2 Racer Grey Pedals Clip-In Pedals


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

"First" are the sweet spot in the Time pedal lineup. They work just as well as the high end models (maybe better than the iClicks), hold up well and only weigh a tiny bit more. From some of the UK vendors you can get a pair, including new cleats, for just about the price of cleats here in the US.


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## Oracle7775 (Sep 16, 2009)

I've got a couple of rides in on my new first generation iClic racers, which with the new version coming out can be bought for ridiculously low prices right now. After 5 or 6 hours on the bike, nothing but good things to report. The pedals hang in the perfect position to click in, they engage incredibly easily, they have the float I want, and I haven't had the "mis-clips" that I've read about elsewhere. I didn't do much walking around on the cleats (my pedals came with the 2nd version of the cleats), but I didn't notice any flexing or cracking from what I did do. Although, the fact that they shipped with two sets of cleats didn't exactly inspire me with a load of confidence!


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

So far so good. I'm enjoying the iclic2 pedals on my trainer. They feel very solid easy to step in. No miss clips that people complain about. Good float and movement. Though the cleats seem taller than the impacts while walking. Overall I'm happy


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

I have never been on Time pedals and the 3 guys that I know that have seen use older version of Time (not sure what type) have all switched to Look Blades - 16nm. They all wanted the super low weight that the Blade offers. 

I have only used Shimano 540 and Speedplays. I just am not getting it when told how the Time's pedal feels like. Could someone explain to me (again) the "feel".........

Ok. The cleat is self centering so it forces my cleat straight. Is not the Look and Shimano pedal kind of the same? 

Now I have 5 degrees of float L/R but the cleat wants to go to 0*.. how much adjustment can be made to cleat to bring heel out or in, so if I ride heel in, Im at 0* and not felling my cleat forcing my foot/ankle/knee to and uncomfortable position....

I know with my 540's it took some tinkering to get the cleat right till it felt neutral.. Im sorry if this is a stupid question and have read several different threads. I just want to understand. 

how was the cleats holding up so far? Im cylde with big feet.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

It's not self centering in the same ways as Shimano or Look. You still have more freedom. Time pedals didn't used to be self centering at all but they changed it for some reason. I would check the Time wed site for angle adjustment details.


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

TM-17 said:


> I have never been on Time pedals and the 3 guys that I know that have seen use older version of Time (not sure what type) have all switched to Look Blades - 16nm. *They all wanted the super low weight that the Blade offers.*


Really?

From CompetitiveCyclist.com, a shop that actually weighs out the parts:

2012 Look Keo Blade Carbon Titanium Pedals– Actual Weight: 186 g
2011 Time Iclic Titan Carbon Pedals – Actual Weight: 182 g


Look Pedals - Competitive Cyclist
Time Pedals - Competitive Cyclist
.


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## bdaghisallo1 (Sep 25, 2007)

darwinosx said:


> It's not self centering in the same ways as Shimano or Look. You still have more freedom. Time pedals didn't used to be self centering at all but they changed it for some reason. I would check the Time wed site for angle adjustment details.


I used the early Time pedals back in the late 80s and 90s, and used the RXS design for a little while and all of them had a recentering force.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I used Equipes for many years and didn't think they had recentering. Guess I could be wrong.


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

I have the first generation iClics and don't like them. They're ok once I'm clicked in but they don't always latch cleanly plus the cleats are really fragile. The new ones look better, I like the design, they just didn't get it right on the first try.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I gave up on the first ones but am hoping the second are better..


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

Can you use cleat wedges on the Time pedals?


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

Contact time in MN. They will be able to tell you


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## paulfeng (Jun 10, 2011)

Let me 2nd the suggestion to contact Time USA (for you US-ians) which is, as stated, in MN. They were very helpful to me for a minor issue I had with an RXS pedal.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I received my Time Racer pedals today. Gray not white like the previous versions. Fine with me since they look better on a titanium bike. I'm putting them on later today and riding tomorrow and will give a ride report after that. They do feel a lot more robust than the previous versions. The pedals and the cleats have a noticeably more durable solid feel and build.


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

MAN.. that looks awesome. can't wait for the ride report..... 


If your report could you tell us about the float feel with the new metal tops and explain the feeling of the self centering float.... if it bothers you and how much (whats the right word) angle you can make the cleat on the shoe.... I ride heel in on one side. Its funny my bad knee i can set up the cleat easy on the good one i had to tinker and adjust over a month to get the right twist before it felt good. the pedal always felt it was like forcing my foot back and it really bothered me.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Will do. I had the original iClics and gave up on them because the build didn't feel very robust and I had a lot of false clip ins. I've never noticed the self centering on any Time pedals.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Ok so rode the new pedals today. I was switching over from Dura-Ace 7800. I've had three fittings with the DA pedals and still never felt they were quite right. My left knee is pretty trashed from two operations, one in the 80's when I was in the Marines and one just a year ago. My right knee has some issues too and will probably need meniscus tear surgery on it fairly soon according to my orthopedic surgeon. Switching to a compact crank has given me a better and more usable gear ratio that is also kinder to my knees and is a huge help. I'm 52 btw.
I'm no stranger to clipless pedals having used the first Look pedals when they came out in 1984 or so. I couldn't get off toe clips and straps fast enough! There were no clipless shoes yet and so they simply drilled holes in the bottom of my Sidis and put the cleats on that way. No fitting of course they just eyeballed it. Fit kits came out a little later and that was the first time I had cleats actually positioned correctly. In the early 90's I tried Time Equipes and immediately felt great freedom and comfort like never before. I used them for years until Time switched to a completely different platform that did not work at all for my Size 48 wide feet. Then they came out with the RSX that had reliability issues with the front of the pedal breaking off and were hard to get into.
So then they came out with iClics and I had high hopes. But they were kind of fragile and I had a lot of issues with false clip ins. Went back to Dura-Ace 7800 pedals. Those Shimano pedals are built like a tank and have very easy and positive clip in with a loud CLACK that lets you know your in. But as I said I still felt like they were not the best thing for my knees.
So..put the iClic 2's on my bike (Moots!) and the cleats on my shoes in roughly the same position as my DA cleats were. As I said in my previous post and pictures the pedals and cleats are noticeably more robust than the previous versions.
So how do they ride? Fantastic! I felt that great Time float that just works for me and felt none of the usual knee strain and twinges during or after the ride. I think the steel plate helps with fluid movement as it is plastic against metal instead of plastic against plastic. I did not have issues with false clip in. Simply put the tip of the cleat into the front hook of the pedal and lightly step down and there is a loud clack that lets you know you are in. I really don't notice the self centering much. Never did on Times. It's not really forcing you anywhere and your foot moves freely.
Even though I used DA cleats with some float its not the same as Time. It feels like you are held too close to the pedal and restricted plus its just not the same freedom of movement. Speedplay doesn't work for me either, maybe because of my 48 wide feet. They feel like pedaling on a walnut and have hot spots plus my foot leans over. I need a wide platform.
So I'm sold and happy as hell. Looks like Time got it right with the iClic 2's.


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

Man they look good. Glad to hear that you like the. I really liked Speedplays by i also have 48 sized shoes and got some killer hot spots. I switched to a high-end carbon sole shoe and moved the cleat around and it took care of it. Had numbness with Speedplay and the Shimano 540s till i got a bike E-soles. 

I ended up making the switch cause a wore a Speedplay pedal out. One of the pedals was able to spin freely and I could move it laterally. I contacted Speedplay and was informed that they did not recommend Light Action pedals for heavy riders that the Zero pedals were better suited do to the added bearing. I loved the float and ease of entry but did not want to play around again so I slapped back on the 540s and took a month to play with the adjustment till I got it right. I would love to see Shimano with the Look cleat change button. 

Ive always liked the look of Time Pedals. Did you have to raise your seat post any?

Also... I wonder why they have a weight limit on the Ti spindle like Speedlplay. Look does not, Nor Keywins.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I have not raised my seatpost yet. I'll think about it when I ride today to see if I need to. I had the Time Equipe magnesiums for some time with titanium spindles and it was never a problem for me even though i was well over the weight limit. But I really don't care much about weight as longevity and reliability is a bigger concern. I'm using Sidi Genius 5's which is not their stiffest sole. I think even cycling shoes should have a small amount of flex so using super stiff soles to make my pedals work better doesn't make much sense to me.


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

darwinosx said:


> Ok so rode the new pedals today. I was switching over from Dura-Ace 7800. I've had three fittings with the DA pedals and still never felt they were quite right. My left knee is pretty trashed from two operations, one in the 80's when I was in the Marines and one just a year ago. My right knee has some issues too and will probably need meniscus tear surgery on it fairly soon according to my orthopedic surgeon. Switching to a compact crank has given me a better and more usable gear ratio that is also kinder to my knees and is a huge help. I'm 52 btw.
> I'm no stranger to clipless pedals having used the first Look pedals when they came out in 1984 or so. I couldn't get off toe clips and straps fast enough! There were no clipless shoes yet and so they simply drilled holes in the bottom of my Sidis and put the cleats on that way. No fitting of course they just eyeballed it. Fit kits came out a little later and that was the first time I had cleats actually positioned correctly. In the early 90's I tried Time Equipes and immediately felt great freedom and comfort like never before. I used them for years until Time switched to a completely different platform that did not work at all for my Size 48 wide feet. Then they came out with the RSX that had reliability issues with the front of the pedal breaking off and were hard to get into.
> So then they came out with iClics and I had high hopes. But they were kind of fragile and I had a lot of issues with false clip ins. Went back to Dura-Ace 7800 pedals. Those Shimano pedals are built like a tank and have very easy and positive clip in with a loud CLACK that lets you know your in. But as I said I still felt like they were not the best thing for my knees.
> So..put the iClic 2's on my bike (Moots!) and the cleats on my shoes in roughly the same position as my DA cleats were. As I said in my previous post and pictures the pedals and cleats are noticeably more robust than the previous versions.
> ...



Thanks for the review. I should be picking up a pair myself soon. 
.


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## AlphaDogCycling (Sep 18, 2011)

@darwinosx,

Where did you get your iclic2 from? I have the original iclic's, and am desperately trying to find replacement iclic 2 cleats -- the left iclic cleat is trashed after only 3 months of use.

thanks,


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## w-g (Mar 9, 2006)

What's the difference between the Fiberflex and the other models? Some resellers are throwing that term into the desciption.
Time's site just shows, Carbon, Race and base models 
:: TIME :: Collection 2012 :: PÉDALES


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## AlphaDogCycling (Sep 18, 2011)

@w-g,

I think "fiberflex" just refers to the fact that Time has replaced the metal spring with a "flexible carbon blade" -- hence "fiberflex". This is a part of all of the iClic and iclic2 pedals.

The models, in increasing cost / "performance", are:
iClic2 -- I think resellers are calling this the "Fiberflex" model
iClic2 Racer
iClic2 Carbon
iClic2 Titan Carbon

Cheers,


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## w-g (Mar 9, 2006)

Thanks, that's what I figured. I think the Carbon's are going to get ordered. I've been riding Time pedals on the MTBs for years and now am evolving the ATACs on the road bike to some real roadie pedals.


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## cyclist brent (Apr 13, 2011)

After thirteen years on my time challenge pro's, I finally upgraded to the iclic's. I went from no look entry to miss-clicks all the time. I feel like a freakin newbie. I'm on my third season and the click-in is still not smooth. The cleats also wear too quick. I just bought the version 2 cleats and I hope they last longer. I hate to say it, but I've gone from a Time advocate to "I wish I had bought something else".

...that being said....I do have to say that with the wide platform and cleat, I've never had the dreaded cleat hotspots in the last 16 years of riding. Plus if you read that first sentence, my first pair of time pedals went problem free for 13 years. Not bad in this day and age. 

The orginals did have some really strong pedal centering. The iclics still have that a bit, but its not as bad. I think the reason why some people don't notice may come down to a weight issue. As a flyweight, it doesn't take as much force to move me around, compared to a clydesdale who's foot is backed up with a little more oomph.


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

from competitive cyclist website:

Another key element of the Iclic pedals is the Fiberflex retention spring. It functions exactly like the Carboflex carbon fiber spring in the more expensive Iclic models, but these are made from fiberglass. Using the less expensive spring material yields two results -- a miniscule weight increase but a significant cost reduction. In the Iclic system, the spring is housed in the center of the pedal body instead of being located on the outboard side of the pedal like the Look Keo Blade pedals.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Got them from Wiggle which is in the UK but ships to the US.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

*about the mis-clicks of the 1st generation*

Guys,

if you have the 1st gen iClic and you're misclicking alot, I have a great suggestion for you to eliminate 80%-90% of your misses. What you do is hook the nose of the cleat in (easy enough here). Then as you firmly press down, wiggle your foot side-to-side a bit. This wiggling action is the magic bullet for me. Solves 80% of my misfires!

But that is not all there is to the usefulness of wiggling technique. Now let's say you misclick. Now what? Did you know that you DO NOT need to totally unhook the cleat and lift your shoe completely out of the pedal. Don't do that. If you misclick, keep the front hooked in as is, but then firmly wiggle your foot to the side AND then wiggle it back down into the pedal with a FIRM downward force like you would as if trying to clip in normally.

With some practice, this wiggle has become 2nd nature and happens in an instant for me as I step into the pedal now lol. It's that fast!

This has been a magic bullet for me with the iclic1. I told this to a mate and now he's a happy camper too.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I'm surprised and happy to report that I have no false clip-ins with the iClic 2's. I had them all the time with the first iClic's which is one of the reasons I dumped them. Also I don't wiggle in at all. I hook the clip and lightly step down and that is all.
Also the float and release is really helped by the steel plate.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

I also have to say that the Time iClic complete eliminates all hot spots on BOTH feet for me. I used to have hotspot with the Shimano SPD-SL especially when I want to position to place more of my toes on the pedals (for sprinting). This causes major hotspots for my toes, forcing me to move more of the middle of my feet on the pedal (good for endurance riding, but not so good for out of saddle sprinting).

Time iclic has worked miracle for my hotspots!

BTW, I just scored a new pair of iClic2 carbon in red color on Ebay for $150 shipped. I'm already happy with the iclic1 (with the wiggle technique), but if iclic2 required no wiggling and last longer (bu ear isn't an issue for me being 128 lbs).. then I'm sticking with iclic2. period.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

w-g said:


> What's the difference between the Fiberflex and the other models? Some resellers are throwing that term into the desciption.
> Time's site just shows, Carbon, Race and base models
> :: TIME :: Collection 2012 :: PÉDALES


The Fibreflex blade is some sort of plastic, The rest have carbon blades. I don't really notice any difference in actual use.

Whoops, just looked at the iClic 2 lineup. They all have carbon blades now.


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

can you post a pic of the cleat on a shoe with the cleat angled. want to try and compare with what i have my Shimano set at.

I emailed Time twice. Nothing.......


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I'm not really sure what you mean by cleat angled.


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## paulfeng (Jun 10, 2011)

*Time email address*



TM-17 said:


> can you post a pic of the cleat on a shoe with the cleat angled. want to try and compare with what i have my Shimano set at.
> 
> I emailed Time twice. Nothing.......


I just want to verify you are sending to the correct address:

[email protected]

(Assuming you are in the USA.)


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

[email protected]



thats the one I used


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## jronan2 (Sep 22, 2011)

Where are you guys buying these pedals in the US?


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## 29or6to4 (Feb 4, 2012)

Bicycle buys.com for $143 racers


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

the second pic is what I was looking for. I wanted to see on a shoe what how much space the cleat could be twisted for heel-in/heel-out. it looks like if one needed more more the metal washer could be dremeled for a little extra clearence


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## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

I'm currently using the RXS's on all three of my bikes, looks like the icliq cleat on the shoe is the same. I'm wondering if I could use my current cleats with the icliq pedals. Not sure I would get them, but just curious. 

Thanks


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## mcteague (Feb 7, 2005)

gus68 said:


> I'm currently using the RXS's on all three of my bikes, looks like the icliq cleat on the shoe is the same. I'm wondering if I could use my current cleats with the icliq pedals. Not sure I would get them, but just curious.
> 
> Thanks


The RXS and iClic cleats are not the same, sorry.

Tim


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## TM-17 (Feb 24, 2011)

So how are the Iclic 2 going for you? Still kicking butt?


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## lucie (Mar 16, 2012)

are they hard to get into and out of?


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## AlphaDogCycling (Sep 18, 2011)

@Lucie,

I have the Time iClic (original version + original cleats) and getting in for the most part is very easy. Every now and then I "false" click-in, but a twisting your heel pops you out. My experience with both Time iClic's and Look Keo's is that they are both about the same to get into / out-of. 

Mostly just a preference question of which pedal you feel most comfortable riding on. For me, the Time's have always been more comfortable, than the look / shimano pedals.


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

I'd like to try these, but are they similar as to when you clip in Shimanos? Been looking for online videos...no dice.

I've used the R540s and right now the 105s. The 105s are amazing bec. of the wider platform. I've had tons of misfires on the R540s bec. it's narrower. 

Now if the iClic 2 are "somewhat" similar I'd give it a try.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

TM-17 said:


> So how are the Iclic 2 going for you? Still kicking butt?


They are doing great. Glad I took a chance and switched back.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

lucie said:


> are they hard to get into and out of?


Not at all. I also don't have misclips like with the original iClics.


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

*Awesome Pedals*

I just put a set (Carbon) on this afternoon and I love them. There was absolutely no learning curve; they were just as the box describes: Click and Ride. I spent 2 years of treachery with a set of Shimano 105's and have consistently had clip in problems. I would always eventually get into them (yes tried lots of different tension settings and even had the bike / shoes / pedals professionally fitted) but I always had to fight with them. This was particularly unnerving when starting from a dead stop up a hill at an intersection. Trying to get across an intersection while fumbling around with my feet while trying to get some momentum going was awful. So this afternoon when I went for my first ride with the Time iClics I was a little tentative, but I gotta tell you, they just felt right and very intuitive from the very first click in. I spent the first half hour just clipping in and out, over and over again and never missed. Some of the reviews talked about mis click where the rear would engage even though the toe wasn't properly engaged .... I couldn't reproduce the problem. For me these are the pedals I've always looked for. I'm sold and I highly recommend them.


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

holsen can you post actual pictures?


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

*Pics*



B05 said:


> holsen can you post actual pictures?


The system won't let me give you any pics:
"To be able to post links or images your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 1 posts. Please remove links from your message, then you will be able to submit your post."

But if you go to my profile you'll find some pics there: forums.roadbikereview.com/members/holsen/albums/iclic-pics/


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

thanks man. those are the first iClic carbons right? not the 2s?


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

B05 said:


> thanks man. those are the first iClic carbons right? not the 2s?


Yes the pedals are the 1st Gen iClics, the cleats are Gen 2. I've spoken with the shop and I'll be returning (exchanging) the pedals for iClic 2's - but honestly I've had no trouble with them. I've been out for 3 rides on them now and LOVE them but I do think the 2nd Generation Pedals will have better longevity becaus of the steel plates on them.


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

TM-17 said:


> I have only used Shimano 540 and Speedplays. I just am not getting it when told how the Time's pedal feels like. Could someone explain to me (again) the "feel".........
> 
> Ok. The cleat is self centering so it forces my cleat straight. Is not the Look and Shimano pedal kind of the same?


Ok, so here's my take on the "Feel" there is a screw adjustment which adjusts the "Feel" What it does loosen or tighten the Angular float. The amount of float remains the same but the amound of tension changes with he adjustment. I just left mine as they were set out of the box. And they feel perfect to me. The manual doesn't specify what the factory setting is or which way to turn the screw for the diffferent settings or whether the screw is Uni-directional or Bi-Directional (Come On Time - Put that info in your user guide)

Regarding the cleat self centering. I switched to iClics from Shimanos. Here's the difference - On the Shimanos you you kind of have to fiddle around or wiggle you foot a little to get the toe to the right place (with practice and repetitive motion it becomes a reflex) On the Times, there is a V Groove on the front of the pedal's toe hook which literally guides the toes of the cleat into just the right place. It's (In my opinion) very nice. I had no learning curve with these pedals / cleats. On the Shimonos I was still missing my left leg consistently after 18 months which I why I wanted to get rid of the shimanos. iClic fixed my problem right out of the gate on the first ride.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

holsen said:


> Ok, so here's my take on the "Feel" there is a screw adjustment which adjusts the "Feel" What it does loosen or tighten the Angular float. The amount of float remains the same but the amound of tension changes with he adjustment. I just left mine as they were set out of the box. And they feel perfect to me. The manual doesn't specify what the factory setting is or which way to turn the screw for the diffferent settings or whether the screw is Uni-directional or Bi-Directional (Come On Time - Put that info in your user guide)
> 
> Regarding the cleat self centering. I switched to iClics from Shimanos. Here's the difference - On the Shimanos you you kind of have to fiddle around or wiggle you foot a little to get the toe to the right place (with practice and repetitive motion it becomes a reflex) On the Times, there is a V Groove on the front of the pedal's toe hook which literally guides the toes of the cleat into just the right place. It's (In my opinion) very nice. I had no learning curve with these pedals / cleats. On the Shimonos I was still missing my left leg consistently after 18 months which I why I wanted to get rid of the shimanos. iClic fixed my problem right out of the gate on the first ride.


Shimano SPD-SL are also self centering once you get the toe to hooked in and pushed forward. How can it NOT be self centering? The shape of the front of SPD-SL (although not a V shape like iClic) is similar to an arch (a parabola), meaning there is only one vertex (just like the V in iClic) for your cleat to come to a stop. So if you're hooked in SPD-SL, then you necessarily has to be self-center as this is the one and only way to clip in.


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

*Shimano vs Time Self Centering*

Let's make this really simple:
I can only write about MY EXPERIENCE. And in MY EXPERIENCE the Shimanos are self centering but FOR ME they were more difficult to find center and get into. The vGroove on the iClic makes it idiot proof, so it could well be that I'm an idiot but at least this idiot is now clipping in without any problems. There is one other difference: there is a higher rise on the iClic toe hook which makes it easier to get into the right spot. THe Shimanos and Speed Plays, Crank Bros and others are no doubt the right pedal for many people. The iClics are the right pedal for me. That's it. It still have my SPD-SL's and I'll never use them again. I'll be selling them at the next swap meet and someone will be very happy with them. I'll be very happy to be done with them.


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

*Time iClic "Feel"*



holsen said:


> Ok, so here's my take on the "Feel" there is a screw adjustment which adjusts the "Feel" What it does loosen or tighten the Angular float. The amount of float remains the same but the amound of tension changes with he adjustment. I just left mine as they were set out of the box. And they feel perfect to me. The manual doesn't specify what the factory setting is or which way to turn the screw for the diffferent settings or whether the screw is Uni-directional or Bi-Directional (Come On Time - Put that info in your user guide)
> 
> I wrote the TriSports.com, a distributor of Time Pedals to get a more precise answer about the "Feel" Setting. Here's the response:
> 
> ...


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I couldn't get that adjuster to move. Its a tiny little screw and just seems not to move.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

The reason the original iClics had false clip in problems is that the cleat was too flexible. The new cleat is stiffer and stronger which is why you tend to not get false clip ins.


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## holsen (Mar 28, 2012)

I've now got the new iClic 2s having exchanged the the 1st gen for the 2nd gen this afternoon. The cleats that came in the box with the 1st gen iClics were indeed the 2nd generation version of the cleats so it seems Time has recognized the problem with the orginal cleats and has addressed it with the existing inventory of original iClics out there on store shelves.

Now that I've got the new iClic 2s, here's what I perceive to be the difference (besides the cleats), 
- Upgraded graphics
- Better Bearings ( the new ones self center better, quicker, smoother)
- Steel Plates on the platform which should prolong the life span

I also weighed the old pedals and the new ones and they are exactly the same weight.
I'm still really happy with these pedals (old and new) and as the price on the originals begins to drop further on remaining inventory, they'll make a great deal and I ouldn't think twice about getting them.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Take a look at the rear back sides of the pedals too. That area has been beefed up. I'm pretty surprised that you got a pair with the new black cleats on original iClics. The steel plates also make float and clip out smoother.


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## w-g (Mar 9, 2006)

Now that RBR is back online 
I had my first ride w/ the iclic2 carbons Sunday along w. new shoes. 4000' climb in 35 miles. For reference this is my first roadie pedal setup. I've been riding Time ATACs on all bikes for years.
These new pedals did the job quite well. The couple hundred gram weight saving over the ATAC was a bonus. 
My only issue was a learning curve to clip in the rear of the cleat. My legs have muscle memory of the ATAC's straight push down and expect the loud 'click' of engagement. It took several frustrating attempts to realize that technique does not work w/ the iclic2. Luckily no tip overs, just some annoying fumbling with the pedal.
Someone earlier in this thread mentioned that the back clip requires a slight wiggle with the heel to grab. That does the trick and its much quieter than the ATAC's loud 'click'. I'll tighten the tesion screw next trip out. No issues clipping out. 

The adjuster requires a really small screwdriver and for those who maybe having issues, it ships at its loosest setting and there are only 3 settings. It will go only one way to tighten and does not feel like a bolt tightening. It should feel like its slowly going over something then pop into place. (not sure if I explained that right).


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Hmm, I don't wiggle at all but I did at first because I was used to it from Look style pedals. Clip in the front hook and lightly step down is all I need.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

yep the wiggle trick works every single time for me, especially when I gotta clip in like NOW due to an uphill start


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Well I'm glad I gave the iClics another chance. They are working really well for me. Time pedals always have except the ones right after the Equipes that were too small. They they had the issues with the RXS breaking the front clip, then the original iClics were not robust enough. You really have to wonder how they test.


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## Action Jackson (Apr 6, 2012)

Glad to hear that youre enjoying them darwin, Ive been looking into them after I saw that BikeRadar rated them as the best pedals for the money. I'm planning on buying the "Racer Ivory" set tomorrow. Just had a quick question; what road shoes do you use with yours?


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Sidi's


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## ADP (May 3, 2012)

Is there still a maximum cyclist weight on any of these iclic 2s pedals? I remember that there was for the highest model on their iclic 1 ..... I think that the rider's maximum weight was 195lbs.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

ADP said:


> Is there still a maximum cyclist weight on any of these iclic 2s pedals? I remember that there was for the highest model on their iclic 1 ..... I think that the rider's maximum weight was 195lbs.



The titanium axle has a weight limit of 90 kg which is around 198 lbs. It's in the manual.

http://www.time-sport.com/upload/ICLIC21.pdf

No weight limit on the hollow steel or solid steel axles.


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## ADP (May 3, 2012)

Thanks Darwinosx,

Appears to be the same weight limits as clic 1.


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## scoby13md (Jun 13, 2012)

I just ordered a set of Iclic-2 white racers yesterday. I have been riding with Look Keo Carbon pedals for several years. I always found them difficult to clip into. The other issue was durability of the cleats. I found that recently the toe portion kept wearing out very quickly. 


So, what about the durability of the Iclic-2 clears? I read several negative reviews of the original Iclic cleats. 

Lastly, what is the composite of the Iclic-2 body?I couldn't find any data on that anywhere.


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## scoby13md (Jun 13, 2012)

*A few questions*

I just ordered a set of Iclic-2 white racers yesterday. I have been riding with Look Keo Carbon pedals for several years. I always found them difficult to clip into. The other issue was durability of the cleats. I found that recently the toe portion kept wearing out very quickly. 


So, what about the durability of the Iclic-2 clears? I read several negative reviews of the original Iclic cleats. 

Lastly, what is the composite of the Iclic-2 body?I couldn't find any data on that anywhere.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

The iClic 2 cleats are much stronger. You can see the difference looking at them. I also no longer have false clip in I think because the new cleat is so much stiffer unless it is something about the iClic 2 pedal.


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## scoby13md (Jun 13, 2012)

Thank you


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## scoby13md (Jun 13, 2012)

*Iclic-2 racer pedals*

well, I got the pedals installed yesterday and put the cleats on my shoes. I was stunned at how easy it was to clip in and out of the pedals. They felt extremely comfortable pedaling. Tomorrow will be the test for me. I'm going to do a metric century and report back.


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## Tantivious Todd (Feb 13, 2012)

Sierra Trading Post has these on sale right now:
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/bike-components~d~74/


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## rboetger (Dec 3, 2011)

I really like the pedals BUT I have broken 2 pair of cleats in the last month. The first cleat was from the iClic and the second was from the iClic 2. I had the original iclic this year I bought a pair of iclic 2 . I don't see any differece in the cleats except last years are red and blick the iclic 2 are all black.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

There were two versions of the original cleats. The new ones seem noticeably stronger and stiffer to me. Bummer about breaking cleats. I just switched to Speedplays which feel amazing plus seem to have solved the issues with my left knee.


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## ChadW (Jul 5, 2012)

*Clarity on cleat durability*

So, I am almost ready to pull the trigger and get a pair of IClic2's. I currently have Speedplay Frog pedals with MTB shoes. I am thinking of switching to see if the performance gain that a lot of people say comes with road pedals is really true. I am curious to hear what your thoughts are? Is it really worth switching? I've had my frogs for several years and they're great. One thing people say is that you're held in tighter and feel more connected with road pedals. Is this true for the ICLICs?

Also, If I am going to switch to road pedals & shoes, I narrowed it down to ICLIC's since they seem to offer similar benefits to the Frogs. However, I am nervous about the durability of the cleats. My Frogs cleats have lasted over a couple of thousand miles (at least). I haven't really read how long the newest version of ICLIC cleats (is it v3 or v2?) have lasted people. I just read that they're better than the original. 

Finally, I recently got a new bike and I am having trouble whereby my back heal occasionally hits the crank arm (right at the bolt). My foot is twisting too much from all the lateral float (and maybe me just being a bit out of shape from not riding all winter). Should I expect similar lateral float with the ICLICs?


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## rboetger (Dec 3, 2011)

I really like the pedals BUT I am concerned about the cleats. Like I said I have gone thru 2 right side cleats in the last month. That is the foot I always take out at a stop. The first cleat was an iClic it cracked so bad I could not get it to engage. The second cleat was an iClic 2 and I had a hard time getting out to the pedal. For some reason I could not get it to release when I twisted my heal away from the bike. It would release if I moved my heal towards the bike. I can't find replacement iClick 2 cleats.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I've never used Frogs but I doubt the performance gain in using road pedals is significant. If you like Frog's why wouldn't you go to Speedplay road pedals?
You will not get the same lateral float with iClics you get with Speedplay road thats for sure. Plus with Speedplay Zero's you can dial in the amount of float you desire. 
Time's are self centering so they have a spring that always tries to bring your foot back to a certain position. Long term it's clear to me that in my case this was hurting my already damaged left knee. Also f you use the twist left and right movement of Time cleats that reduces the amount of lateral float available to almost nothing.
For me Times were great until my second knee surgery and since switching to Speedplays I wouldn't think of going back.


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## MilanoRex (Jun 25, 2012)

Thanks for the Seirra Trading Post link! I just used coupon code FZH3439C to get 35% off! I ordered the carbon version for 134 shipped! Smoking deal


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## Tantivious Todd (Feb 13, 2012)

MilanoRex said:


> Thanks for the Seirra Trading Post link! I just used coupon code FZH3439C to get 35% off! I ordered the carbon version for 134 shipped! Smoking deal


You're most welcome. I probably should've posted that in the bargain thread, but just thought I would pass it along. I bought a pair for my wife who was having a devil of a time getting in and out of her Look pedals. It sounded like a gun going off when she finally popped out of them. I also want to get some for myself, but can't justify the expense right now, even at the deep discount.

When you do get them, let us know how you like them!


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## edsc (Aug 27, 2012)

It seems that some people had trouble with the 1st generation of iClic pedals. I read this thread before I decided to get the iClic2 pedals. Below is my experience with the iClic2 pedals so far.

I had been using the top of the line Look Keo Blade Carbon pedals in my road bike, and the Look Keo Max pedals in my tri bike for a long time. I was never really happy with the pedals because they did not have a smooth floating motion and it was hard to set-up the proper alignment of new replacement cleats. In addition, it was hard to clip-in at times (specially the Max pedals), and the cleats are very slippery to walk on unless you have the cleats with the black-rubber bottoms but they wear out really fast. 

I recently purchased the Time iClic2 pedals for my wife. I was first impressed with how easy it was to set-up the alignment because the top screw of the cleat lets one dial-in the rotation-degress from neutral with precission. The cleat is also wide which makes it a stable and non-slippery surface to walk around. I decided to give the iClic2 pedals a try myself so I purchased the iClic2 Carbon pedals to replace the Look Keo Blade Carbon pedals. 

The pedals are great! First as I mentioned earlier, I was able to easily install them and aling them with precission. But above all, I love the fact that the cleats clip-in the pedals very easily and without any trouble all the time! The floating motion is smooth and not jerky like in the Look pedals. The cleat is wide and it feels safe walking on concrete even when there is a slope like I have in my driveway. I've had instances with the Look cleats when I have slipped when using the ones without the black rubber bottoms.

I love the pedals so I just puchased a second set to replace the Look Keo Max in my tri bike.


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## Tantivious Todd (Feb 13, 2012)

Excellent. Thanks for the feedback!


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## jackmen (Jul 24, 2007)

*Time I clic 2's*

I recently switched to the Iclic 2's on my new road bike. Formerly road dura ace on my last Bike.


Love the pedals, smooth in and out and I particularly like the float in the pedal. They are extremely comfortable over long distance rides. 

Only disappointment is the cleats. They wear extremely fast. I have 400 miles on my cleats and they are wearing quite badly. They appear to use a very soft plastic that wears quick.

In contrast my dura ace cleats lasted 5 years 7000 miles with very little wear. They need to change the plastic compound on the cleats.

the pedals are wonderful otherwise.


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Time or another company needs to come up with darn cleats for this or I wont move out of rxs pedals. Probably next time I'll order a pair of keywin pedals, their cleats last forever aswell.


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## w-g (Mar 9, 2006)

Agree w/ jackmen. Good pedals, cleats very disappointing. Bad cleat wear within two months.


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## choa (Apr 13, 2009)

Has anybody here had problems with bearings in iClics? My left pedal (iClic Fiberflex 1st gen, 6 months old) is kinda stuck. It can still rotate but won't do it by itself, if you know what I mean. I tried to put some oil but that didn't help.


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## mattsavage (Apr 25, 2007)

w-g said:


> Agree w/ jackmen. Good pedals, cleats very disappointing. Bad cleat wear within two months.


Cleats are a total joke... I walked 2 miles the other day on them, there was nothing left at the end.


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## c3024446 (Jul 18, 2012)

mattsavage said:


> Cleats are a total joke... I walked 2 miles the other day on them, there was nothing left at the end.


Why are you walking two miles on road cleats?


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## mattsavage (Apr 25, 2007)

c3024446 said:


> Why are you walking two miles on road cleats?


Sliced my tire, failed pump, middle of nowhere, no cell service, didn't want to walk on mixed gravel/AC in my socks to find a phone.


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## c3024446 (Jul 18, 2012)

D'oh! Didn't really think of that.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

mattsavage said:


> Cleats are a total joke... I walked 2 miles the other day on them, there was nothing left at the end.


I have no idea about the relative durability of these cleats vs. others- but to me, walking durability woudl not be a make or break issue. I'd be looking at general functioning, in and out, float, weight, price point even looks, etc. 

Even cleat durability during normal use (not walking) would not be a make or break issue. If the least durable cleat gives me 3-4,000 miles and the most durable cleat gives me 5-6,000, I wouldn't really care because that much difference in a $35 wear item doesn't really mean anything to me. The other factors are so much more important. I feel the same about chain wear - the difference between "best" and "worst" doesn't really matter to me in the big scheme of things.

But back to the point he made above 2 miles of walking - I have the RXS pedals/cleats, which are very similar in the "walking nubs" to the Shimano cleats - three rubber nubs that make contact with the ground. I wonder if ANY cleat, including Shimano or RXS, or Look or Speedplay would actually stand up to 2 full miles of steady walking? Just wondering. Like I said, that's not a critical factor for me, but I wonder if it's really a distinguishing weakness or pretty much the same or similar for all popular cleats. I mean, two miles?


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## mattsavage (Apr 25, 2007)

Camilo said:


> Like I said, that's not a critical factor for me, but I wonder if it's really a distinguishing weakness or pretty much the same or similar for all popular cleats. I mean, two miles?


I walked two miles, in one stint, in brand new cleats. There was nothing left, at all... They broke in the first couple hundred yards (nothing new, they always break), but the actual plastic bits that engage with the pedal were completely worn gone. If a cleat from other manufacturers is expected to last 4-6k (as others have claimed), how many miles are walked total in that period? I bet alot more than two miles, not to mention wear and tear from engagement.

I love the pedals, and the cleats when they're intact, but it's ridiculous how undurable they are. $35 means alot to me when I replace them a couple times a month...


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

mattsavage said:


> ...I love the pedals, and the cleats when they're intact, but it's ridiculous how undurable they are. $35 means alot to me when I replace them a couple times a month...


Twice a month replacement under normal use would tip me against them - but do you really have to replace them twice a month? How much do you ride?


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## eickmewg (Feb 11, 2012)

I recently got some I-Clic2 Carbon pedals to replace some inexpensive Exustar LOOK-style pedals. I needed pedals that allowed some degree of float due to knee issues and I found the Exustar pedals with the red 9 degree float look cleats very hard to unclip. In fact I had a painful tipover at a stop sign due to the inability to get out of the pedal. I went back to the black cleats which I could get into and out of easily, but at the cost of no float. I now have about 300 miles on the I-Clic2's. The pedals and cleats have worked well without any problems. Clipping into and out of the pedals have been effortless. I am hopeful that the cleats will hold up as they seem to be pretty expensive to replace, but "TIME" will tell. I happened upon quite a deal via Price Point and so far I have been very satisfied with this pedal system.


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## OldChipper (May 15, 2011)

My guess would be that walking 2 miles in any plastic cleat would pretty much trash them. I think the Speedplays have more metal in them (or at least they used to), so they would probably survive better. FWIW, I usually have to replace my Time iClic cleats about once a year; I average probably somewhere around 4,000 miles per year give or take (March - October or so, I have other addictions in winter). 

I just had a different problem though... Last week, I couldn't get my left shoe to clip in properly on my TT bike right before a race. I figured it was the cleat since I'd done a century a few days before and walked a bit in them at aid stations. After replacing the cleat with no improvement in engagement, I took a close look at the pedal and found that the carbon blade that provides to tension to retain the cleat was cracked!  I bought/installed these pedals in mid-June and they probably have less than 500 miles on them total! 

iClic2's that I have on 2 other bikes with a collective total of around 4,000 miles have been fine. Hopefully I just got a "lemon" pedal and Time will repair it with no hassle. Will let you know...


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## OldChipper (May 15, 2011)

choa said:


> Has anybody here had problems with bearings in iClics? My left pedal (iClic Fiberflex 1st gen, 6 months old) is kinda stuck. It can still rotate but won't do it by itself, if you know what I mean. I tried to put some oil but that didn't help.


Hah! I was just going to post something about this. I have the same problem and have no idea of the cause. I'd pretty much some to the conclusion that it was something I was doing because it's happened with 4 different sets of pedals (2 x iClic and 2 x iClic2s) and I hadn't seen any comments about this problem. The right pedal spins super smooth (the 2s more so than the 1s), but the left pedal is, as you say, kinda stuck. I have NO idea what could cause this, but would be interested in others' experience and/or ideas. 

FWIW, I normally click out on the right side at stop signs, traffic lights, etc. and it's the left pedal that's "stuck."


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## choa (Apr 13, 2009)

OldChipper said:


> FWIW, I normally click out on the right side at stop signs, traffic lights, etc. and it's the left pedal that's "stuck."


Hmm, I use them both equally. Anyway, googling around I found a temporary solution - whacking the pedal with a rubber mallet seams to solve the problem for a few rides... and it also entertains my girlfriend when she sees how I maintain my pedals which cost as much as her whole bike


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## Spreok Team (Sep 20, 2012)

*iClic 2 general comments*

I have been riding Time pedals since 1999. The carbon RXS have worked excellent for me, but my 5 year old pair recently broke and I was forced to buy the new iClic 2. So far I have only ridden them for 600 miles and compared to the RXS I must say that they are ok but not better. The carbon engagement system is so soft that I cannot feel or hear it. Ironically that is what I liked most about the RXS. Other than that, the pedals are solid, excellent NO PLAY tight cleat to pedal connection. Have not had the engagement problems described regarding the first generation iClics. The float is good and typical Time 5°, just perfect. As all Time pedals, they do re-center themselves, but if this is bothering you it means that you still have to tweak the cleat to the correct angle position. I do miss the metal to metal feel of the old Time pedals and would gladly give up the weight benefits of the new ones to get it back. Too bad we do not leave in a perfect world. In fact, Time just launched a newer pedal, typical, getting worse than Apple Products. PS if you have been riding carbon RXS for more than 4 years, replace them before the carbon breaks on you risking major injury. Thankfully when it happened to me I was just out of a peloton averaging speeds of 30 mi/hr.


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## npcrovetto (Oct 1, 2012)

So I have had the iclic2's in racer red for about 4 months give or take.
Yesterday, the little protective plate with the steel bits fell/broke off. The little part is still all in one piece, so I could hypothetically glue it back on, but do you guys think I should send it back to time or what?
Seems miniscule to me.
Has this happened to anyone else?


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## rboetger (Dec 3, 2011)

*I have 3 iClic cleats that have broken!*

I am pretty frustrated with these pedals. I have 3 right cleats that have broken this summer. The iClic 2 has metal wear plates on top. I have lost one. I am trying to contact Time but have not heard back from anyone.


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## roadfish (May 12, 2009)

*Iclic2 Problems*



npcrovetto said:


> So I have had the iclic2's in racer red for about 4 months give or take.
> Yesterday, the little protective plate with the steel bits fell/broke off. The little part is still all in one piece, so I could hypothetically glue it back on, but do you guys think I should send it back to time or what?
> Seems miniscule to me.
> Has this happened to anyone else?


These pedals suck!!!
I started with the RSX pedals and they were fine.
When the first gen. iclic came out, being a skier i said thats a great idea to have a easy engagement mechanisim on a cycling pedal. then the trouble started.
At first the cleats wore out very fast (maybe 3 months at most) then the new cleats came out and they were better, but now the pedals wore out very fast.
Then i tried the iclic2 pedals, they are horrible. one of the sets of pedals got a scrape on the side and the ss plate came off, on another set i have the plate came off after 5 rides. no answer from Time. This transformation has been very expensive because i have thse pedals on 4 bikes. needless to say i am changing brands


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Wow looks like some people are reporting bad news about these pedals. I myself have 4 pairs of them, 2 original iclic, 2 iclic2, and so far after about 1 year, all of them are holding. No problem with any pedal nor cleat. It could be that I'm a lightweight (130 lbs). I'm a little curious about the weight of those who are destroying these pedals. Maybe for the bigger guys, Shimano is the way to go. Shimano usually over-engineer their products. Sorry to hear about the horror stories.


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## Spreok Team (Sep 20, 2012)

aclinjury said:


> Wow looks like some people are reporting bad news about these pedals. I myself have 4 pairs of them, 2 original iclic, 2 iclic2, and so far after about 1 year, all of them are holding. No problem with any pedal nor cleat. It could be that I'm a lightweight (130 lbs). I'm a little curious about the weight of those who are destroying these pedals. Maybe for the bigger guys, Shimano is the way to go. Shimano usually over-engineer their products. Sorry to hear about the horror stories.


I am 240 lbs. Have not had them for long, so far no problems. I did like the RXS much better though!


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## hawkhero (Mar 28, 2006)

Lost a metal wear plate on my iclic 2 carbons. Anyone have luck getting a replacement plate?


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