# Specialized Road Questions?



## Specialized_Joe

Hey everyone,

I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help! 

Thanks!

EDIT: 
If you have a new question, its much easier for me to find and answer if you select "Reply to Thread" instead of just replying to someone else's post. Otherwise I'm liable to miss your question all together. Thanks!


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## brianb21

Sweet i will say i love my Sworks Roubaix SL4!


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## tednugent

Why doesn't specialized offer speedplay specific shoes?


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## SilverStar07

I just went to buy a Keg Storage Vessel Specialized Bicycle Components because I think it is a great idea and I could get rid of my saddle bag. The problem is the Keg is way to small, even the guys at the shop I went to said the same thing. They wanted to display it and the tool wrap as shown online with the co2, tube, tire levers & tool, they couldn't get it to fit together. I took my stuff, tool, patch kit and tube and there was no way I could get my stuff to fit either, so no I am looking at some of the alternatives. I think it should be at least as big as a small water bottle. What would be even better is to offer two sizes, one the size of a small water bottle and the other the size of a large water bottle.

I do love my Secteur by the way.

SS-


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## roadworthy

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


Joe, 
Love your products.
Have to ask about the new COBL seatpost which directionally is great concept and maybe the future of more rigid rear triangle with compliancy built into the seatpost. But why in the world did the engineers go with a single Pave style bolt spec'ed at 10 ft-lbs to keep in place? A disappointment. I rode the Pave post with identical single bolt and it would lose its tilt adjustment on rough roads. Tell your chief engineer he should have made it 2 bolt like all other top seatposts on the market including Specialized very own 2 bolt seatpost. Your engineers could have easily made it a 2 bolt micro adjustable post that would never lose adjustment and be adjusted with lower torque.

Please let me know if you would convey my thoughts. I am a mechanical engineer btw.
Cheers and welcome to the forum.


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## Specialized_Joe

tednugent said:


> Why doesn't specialized offer speedplay specific shoes?


@tednugent
Good question... Speedplay represents a fairly small portion of the overall pedal market. The additional costs of tooling and stocking inventory for those few users hasn't been worth the benefit at this point. Thanks!


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## Specialized_Joe

SilverStar07 said:


> I just went to buy a Keg Storage Vessel Specialized Bicycle Components because I think it is a great idea and I could get rid of my saddle bag. The problem is the Keg is way to small, even the guys at the shop I went to said the same thing. They wanted to display it and the tool wrap as shown online with the co2, tube, tire levers & tool, they couldn't get it to fit together. I took my stuff, tool, patch kit and tube and there was no way I could get my stuff to fit either, so no I am looking at some of the alternatives. I think it should be at least as big as a small water bottle. What would be even better is to offer two sizes, one the size of a small water bottle and the other the size of a large water bottle.
> 
> I do love my Secteur by the way.
> 
> SS-


@SilverStar07
I'm glad to hear you love your Secteur, those are rad bikes! The keg is certainly a snug fit and its optimized to carry just a few specific products. One suggestion I have is to try using one of our thinner turbo tubes instead of a regular weight tube in the wrap; that might free up just enough space. 
I'll certainly pass your feedback on to the design team for future products. Thanks!


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## dton13

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


Hey Specialized Joe,

Can you get me a definite confirmation as to whether your "Plug and Play" fenders will fit MY2014 Roubaix Disc models. 

It's been very annoying to receive so many conflicting reports from your own representatives (online and via phone) that I ended up going with an alternate brand. I really wanted them but I wasn't willing to be the guinea pig and order them only to have them not work. Providing this information clearly online would be very beneficial to future purchasers of your bike and myself.


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## ornoth

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but... Rim brake options on all models, please.


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## tednugent

A common question asked:

what's the weight of the various DT Axis wheelsets?


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## carbonLORD

Oh man, here we go...

Welcome Joe and thanks for opening Pandoras Box.


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## carbonLORD

SilverStar07 said:


> I just went to buy a Keg Storage Vessel...


I have a solution!

Use your jersey pockets *and* the Keg.


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## carbonLORD

Feedback... that I have shared with your warranty dept and inside reps... Work with Shimano to assure my Ultegra Di2 rear derailleur doest swing up and do this to my S-Works Venge again.










Still love the bike, even after the €200 repair.


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## tom_h

Specialized_Joe said:


> @tednugent
> Good question... Speedplay represents a fairly small portion of the overall pedal market. The additional costs of tooling and stocking inventory for those few users hasn't been worth the benefit at this point. Thanks!


Probably depends a lot on the region & target user, too.

Among racers in So Calif, I'd estimate at least 1/3 are on Speedplay. 
There are crits almost every weekend, and Speedplays are both fast to clip-in and provide a bit more ground clearance when pedaling thru turns.

I suspect the casual or rec cyclist will opt for Shimano pedals to match what's probably already on their bike ;-)


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## nismo73

So...SL5 at this year's Paris-Roubaix???


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## thumper8888

nismo73 said:


> So...SL5 at this year's Paris-Roubaix???


Now there is a good guess. And Venge Evo under Cav for TDF?

Oddly, I suspect Joe isn't going to answer that one, not smart marketing.

Here's a better one: Joe, can you guys make just one thing that DOENST fit well?
I'm sick of looking like a fan boy. The shoes, even the damn helmets, seem made for me. Something has to go.


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## Specialized_Joe

tom_h said:


> Probably depends a lot on the region & target user, too.
> 
> Among racers in So Calif, I'd estimate at least 1/3 are on Speedplay.
> There are crits almost every weekend, and Speedplays are both fast to clip-in and provide a bit more ground clearance when pedaling thru turns.
> 
> I suspect the casual or rec cyclist will opt for Shimano pedals to match what's probably already on their bike ;-)


Absolutely. I think Speedplay pedals offer a lot of performance advantages...you never know, maybe we'll do something in the future!
Plenty of riders use our shoes with their pedals and it works great, so don't let the lack of a specific shoe stop you


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## mcwenzel

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


I have a 2011 Roubaix SL3 Expert. Since purchase, it's never shifted correctly. I have had it into the bike shop over and over and over again, and they have never been able to get the bike to consistently shift well. I posted here from time to time but not for a while as I basically gave up.

The recurring problem is that, when in my big ring up front, the bike will not shift up the rear cassette fluidly into the easier gear. I often have to double shift and then go back a gear. I have had the cables replaced, a pro tune, provided the shop with the service bulletin, etc. and the problem remains. The mechanic at the bike shop (a very large Specialized dealer with multiple locations) told me the 2011 Roubaix frame has issues and he has seen plenty of similar problems for that model year.

Wondering if it is possible that my frame has an issue that prevents it from smoothly shifting as described. 

Are you aware of problems with the 2011 Roubaix SL3 frames? 

Do you have any suggestions to solve this ongoing problem?

Thanks


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## roadworthy

I will answer for Joe as I own the identical bike. Shifting issues related to the bike itself is a myth. Reality is, your bike shop doesn't know how to set the bike up.
Ultegra 6700 and DA 7900 previous to the latest generation were more problematic on all bikes due to soft derailleur springs coupled with Shimano's first foray into under handlebar wrap cable routing which adds friction. Bad nexus.. My guess if you have a Shimano driveline. Further Specialized changed the spec for cable routing. Perform a search for 'California Cross'. Specialized has an installation PDF on line you can download. The cables should be crossed inside the downtube for least cable friction.
If you want you can post a picture and I will confirm what routing you have.
I built my Roubaix SL3 Pro...same as your Expert with Campy and it is the best shifting bike I have owned and I have owned a lot of bikes.
Shifting performance is largely set up related on all bikes. There is nothing wrong with the bike. Btw, the most problematic shifting internally cable routed bikes with Shimano driveline were internally cable routed S-series Cervelos where the cables entered the top tube right behind the steerer. Smaller housing radii = more internal cable friction.




mcwenzel said:


> I have a 2011 Roubaix SL3 Expert. Since purchase, it's never shifted correctly. I have had it into the bike shop over and over and over again, and they have never been able to get the bike to consistently shift well. I posted here from time to time but not for a while as I basically gave up.
> 
> The recurring problem is that, when in my big ring up front, the bike will not shift up the rear cassette fluidly into the easier gear. I often have to double shift and then go back a gear. I have had the cables replaced, a pro tune, provided the shop with the service bulletin, etc. and the problem remains. The mechanic at the bike shop (a very large Specialized dealer with multiple locations) told me the 2011 Roubaix frame has issues and he has seen plenty of similar problems for that model year.
> 
> Wondering if it is possible that my frame has an issue that prevents it from smoothly shifting as described.
> 
> Are you aware of problems with the 2011 Roubaix SL3 frames?
> 
> Do you have any suggestions to solve this ongoing problem?
> 
> Thanks


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## mcwenzel

I appreciate the response but we had the same discussion two years ago and my bike still does not shift properly. My bike shop is one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country with multiple locations and I have had it worked on by multiple people in multiple locations. I have given them the bulletin and even printed out our prior discussion on this exact issue with the California Cross. The bike has had the cables redone multiple times. I have had managers and head mechanics at different locations involved because of the ongoing problem.

The head mechanic at one location told me he has seen tons of problems with the 2011 SL3 and it's a known issue with some frames. 

I guess it's possible that all the mechanics at three different locations of one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country can't set the bike up correctly but it seems highly unlikely to me.


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## roadworthy

mcwenzel said:


> I appreciate the response but we had the same discussion two years ago and my bike still does not shift properly. My bike shop is one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country with multiple locations and I have had it worked on by multiple people in multiple locations. I have given them the bulletin and even printed out our prior discussion on this exact issue with the California Cross. The bike has had the cables redone multiple times. I have had managers and head mechanics at different locations involved because of the ongoing problem.
> 
> The head mechanic at one location told me he has seen tons of problems with the 2011 SL3 and it's a known issue with some frames.
> 
> I guess it's possible that all the mechanics at three different locations of one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country can't set the bike up correctly but it seems highly unlikely to me.


Yes, as statistically improbable as your situation, the bike techs...I use this term loosely in your case, collectively don't have a clue. All of them. You can put them all in a room together and give them an IQ test and all would be below average.
There is NOTHING problematic about Specialized SL3 internal cable routing that contributes to poor shifting. Your problem could lie elsewhere and be even unrelated to the cable routing etc. I could walk you systematically through your poor shifting performance, but my sense is you wouldn't be able to follow it. This is why you defer to bike shops for your tune ups. Many of my club riding friends have high end bikes. What do I end up doing? Fix all the botched cable installations and poor shifting after they get their bikes back from the bike shop after a tune up.

If you want to do this over the web with me, it will take a meticulous approach. You start at the shifter and work back. It may involve you creating a video clip. You would learn a lot in the process and finally put your shifting issue to bed.
If you want to take the bike interior routing completely out of the equation, this is simple to do. You install a 2000mm housing and bare cable outside the bike routing. You connect directly from the shifter to the rear derailleur...no internal routing and ride the bike. This once and for all proves if cable routing has anything to do with poor shifting performance.

The way to root cause any shifting issue, is to pull the cable off the bike and start from the shifter and work back. First you have to start with the basics which means the hardware involved. Attach a Park Derailleur Hanger Adjustment tool on the rear hanger and make sure it is dead plum to the entire circumference of the rear wheel rim. You need to remove the rear wheel and cassette and check the freehub. You need to check the cassette for bent teeth or improper back cage (largest cogs) location, lockring torque etc. You need to check your axle cone tightness for axial play in your wheel bearings. I will state again, there is NOTHING in the bike geometry that contributes to poor shifting. The internal cables between shifter, bottom cable guide plate and end of chainstay where the loop to the derailleur is made are completely unfettered by any interference. There is in fact no difference in shifting performance between any Specialized SL3 bike with internal cable routing compared to an external cable routed bike. Why? Because the cables routed internally, do not touch anything. They are isolated in their own space and do not touch any adjacent frame tubes. So you need to lose your fixation on the problem being with the bike and focus on the rear wheel, derailleur hanger, front shifter and rear derailleur. What groupset do you have on the bike? My guess is its 6700 Ultegra or 7900 DA.
Good luck.

PS: if you want to start this process, I suggest you begin a new thread. Also you want to start with a very precise description of why your bike won't shift well e.g. only related to rear derailleur or does it affect front shifting? Is shifting performance poor stair stepping up the cassette (down shifting) or traversing down the cassette in back (upshifting) etc. ?


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## Dunbar

I run DA 9000 cables on my Roubaix SL4 with Shimano 105 5700. It shifts almost perfect every time. On my Roubaix SL2 with external cable routing the shifting with the stock Jagwire cables left a lot to be desired. I would get some skipping or stuttering on at least one ore two gears on the cassette. I had a loaner Roubaix SL4 with 6700 and Jagwire cables that shifted just as poorly as my SL2. I would highly recommend trying DA 9000 or Ultegra 6800 cables on your SL3.


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## George M

I just put new cables on my bike and it shifts like a charm. 
The only thing that got to me was, on my 2007 Roubaix, it had a piece of hose to put the front derailleur cable, on the 2012 it doesn't. I know how to get around that now, but it would sure help if the had that hose in all of them.

I did not use jagwire cables by the way. I used Shimano's brand, but I forget what they call them.


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## roadworthy

George M said:


> I just put new cables on my bike and it shifts like a charm.
> The only thing that got to me was, on my 2007 Roubaix, it had a piece of hose to put the front derailleur cable, on the 2012 it doesn't. I know how to get around that now, but it would sure help if the had that hose in all of them.
> 
> I did not use jagwire cables by the way. I used Shimano's brand, but I forget what they call them.


What 'piece of hose'? The 2011-2014 needs nothing more than it already has.
Its a great design the way it is.


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## George M

roadworthy said:


> What 'piece of hose'? The 2011-2014 needs nothing more than it already has.
> Its a great design the way it is.


I couldn't get the wire fished in and I thought I was hitting the shell of the BB, so the bike shop said to bring it in. I finally got some of the old cable and pushed it in from the bottom and a bunch of dirt came out first and then the cable. That made me happy, as I like to do everything myself. I thought about putting some grease in the hole to keep the dirt out, but I thought the grease would catch more dirt.

I'm thinking about using all Shimano components now. That's cable, chains and whatever else I need. I've been using KMC chains and I understand that they make Shimano chains as well.

My 2007 had a small white hose in the bb, to fish your cable through.


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## roadworthy

George M said:


> I couldn't get the wire fished in and I thought I was hitting the shell of the BB, so the bike shop said to bring it in. I finally got some of the old cable and pushed it in from the bottom and a bunch of dirt came out first and then the cable. That made me happy, as I like to do everything myself. I thought about putting some grease in the hole to keep the dirt out, but I thought the grease would catch more dirt.
> 
> I'm thinking about using all Shimano components now. That's cable, chains and whatever else I need. I've been using KMC chains and I understand that they make Shimano chains as well.
> 
> My 2007 had a small white hose in the bb, to fish your cable through.


I much prefer the newer design. You must ride your bike in real muddy conditions for that hole...see arrow below...to become solid dirt or mud. The newer design shown below is easy to set up and lower friction than 'that piece of hose' which is really a segment of cable housing attached to the front derailleur.

The cable guide on the newer SL3/4 bikes is a solid straw or conduit for that particular hole for front derailleur routing that pokes all the way through the BB. You should never let it get that contaminated of course but you know that as it will dramatically degrade front shifting. If you ever need to knock the dirt of it in the future:
1. remove the cable the bike.
2. invert the bike and set the bike on the handlebar hoods and saddle.
3. Cut a section of thin coat hanger and poke it straight through. Yes you can use an old cable as well but it won't have the spine/compression strength of a coat hanger.
Have fun.


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## Dunbar

roadworthy said:


> I much prefer the newer design. You must ride your bike in real muddy conditions for that hole...see arrow below...to become solid dirt or mud.


I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?


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## tednugent

Dunbar said:


> I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?


 probably water drainage?

The locations at the top tube isn't 100% sealed, so moisture will get into the frame


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## Zampano

roadworthy said:


> There is NOTHING problematic about Specialized SL3 internal cable routing that contributes to poor shifting. Your problem could lie elsewhere....



Great post on troubleshooting, and a sad commentary on what is passed on these days as customer service.

On my last Roubaix it was fortunate I had access to the tools and gauges needed. I figured my Campy wheelset was not the problem, and was correct on that. The derailleur hanger it seems is easy to go out of whack, and in this case simple to put right. 

Can't wait to get Roubaix #2 built up. Injuries find me coming back to familiar handling, and the tall HT. Contact points are taken care of, and everything else is in transit.


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## roadworthy

Dunbar said:


> I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?


They do it with ICR because there is no way to route the cable from the front of the bike through the rear drive side chainstay without an intermediate window to both front and rear sections of bike. Virtually every road bike sold in the last 20 years has had a cable guide rub plate right under the bike that is exposed. In fact if a late model Specialized or any bike gets this cable guide dirty, it will degrade shifting because it adds friction. It is not a bad idea to scrub the cable guide with a firm bristle brush...with cables in place....with some soapy water from time to time in fact. I recommend you doing this with the bike in normal position to let gravity be your friend and not get water into the frame. Also, lubricating the guide is a false benefit...will attract dirt faster and degrade shifting faster. Flipping the bike over and inspecting this area after a few months of riding is never a bad idea. Mine got pretty dirty down there after a season of riding and front derailleur shifting wasn't as low of effort. I do a complete bike tear down every year. Don't even have to change the cables...just remove them and clean them. Also clean regrease BB and headset etc. Check derailleur alignment. These bikes only need a little TLC. Cable routing and shift performance is just superb on SL3/SL4 Specialized bikes. If it isn't, as discussed, it has nothing to do with the bike itself. But as with any bike, if the cable guide gets dirty, there will be higher cable friction for both derailleurs.


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## roadworthy

Zampano said:


> Great post on troubleshooting, and a sad commentary on what is passed on these days as customer service.
> 
> On my last Roubaix it was fortunate I had access to the tools and gauges needed. I figured my Campy wheelset was not the problem, and was correct on that. The derailleur hanger it seems is easy to go out of whack, and in this case simple to put right.
> 
> Can't wait to get Roubaix #2 built up. Injuries find me coming back to familiar handling, and the tall HT. Contact points are taken care of, and everything else is in transit.


Thanks for the kind words. Yes, Campy and Sram groupsets shift great on these bikes because of decent derailleur spring rate unlike balky 6700/7900 which Shimano resolved with new Ultegra/DA which are both outstanding.
What Roubaix are you going to build up and with what groupset and wheels?
I am thinking about replacing Campy on my bike with new 11s Ultegra Di2.
Btw, I prefer the handling and tall head tube of the Roubaix as well because of my flexibility. The bike is still very fast and have no problem keeping up with slammed bikes and even ride with TT guys from time to time. The Roubaix is an amazing bike.


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## roadworthy

tednugent said:


> probably water drainage?
> 
> The locations at the top tube isn't 100% sealed, so moisture will get into the frame


Yup...that and cable access/internal routing between front and back of the bike.


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## Zampano

roadworthy said:


> Thanks for the kind words. Yes, Campy and Sram groupsets shift great on these bikes because of decent derailleur spring rate unlike balky 6700/7900 which Shimano resolved with new Ultegra/DA which are both outstanding.
> What Roubaix are you going to build up and with what groupset and wheels?
> I am thinking about replacing Campy on my bike with new 11s Ultegra Di2.
> Btw, I prefer the handling and tall head tube of the Roubaix as well because of my flexibility. The bike is still very fast and have no problem keeping up with slammed bikes and even ride with TT guys from time to time. The Roubaix is an amazing bike.




The new Roubaix will be nothing special, just a solid road bike. It's a 2013 Comp frame, with a solid custom DT wheelset, and a Campy Veloce group.

I'll use it to explore whether or not I can ride roadbikes at all. Then if all goes well, I'll do the 2015 Cycle To The Sun in Haleakala Maui.


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## Specialized_Joe

@mcwenzel

I'm really sorry to hear about the shifting saga on your bike-I understand how frustrating that can be for both you and the shop. We are aware of shifting issues on the Roubaix SL3 that affected some users. 
We made a revised ICR entry kit as well as a revised BB cable guide kit that solved most issues. Do you know if you the shop installed those parts?


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## SkiRacer55

mcwenzel said:


> I appreciate the response but we had the same discussion two years ago and my bike still does not shift properly. My bike shop is one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country with multiple locations and I have had it worked on by multiple people in multiple locations. I have given them the bulletin and even printed out our prior discussion on this exact issue with the California Cross. The bike has had the cables redone multiple times. I have had managers and head mechanics at different locations involved because of the ongoing problem.
> 
> The head mechanic at one location told me he has seen tons of problems with the 2011 SL3 and it's a known issue with some frames.
> 
> I guess it's possible that all the mechanics at three different locations of one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country can't set the bike up correctly but it seems highly unlikely to me.


I have a 2012 Roubaix SL3, SRAM Force, and I had similar RD shifting issues. Guess what? The guys who did the original setup had a waaay too short cable housing going out of the chainstay and into the RD. I had somebody but in a big, loopy cable housing...problem solved...


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## Specialized_Joe

roadworthy said:


> Joe,
> Love your products.
> Have to ask about the new COBL seatpost which directionally is great concept and maybe the future of more rigid rear triangle with compliancy built into the seatpost. But why in the world did the engineers go with a single Pave style bolt spec'ed at 10 ft-lbs to keep in place? A disappointment. I rode the Pave post with identical single bolt and it would lose its tilt adjustment on rough roads. Tell your chief engineer he should have made it 2 bolt like all other top seatposts on the market including Specialized very own 2 bolt seatpost. Your engineers could have easily made it a 2 bolt micro adjustable post that would never lose adjustment and be adjusted with lower torque.
> 
> Please let me know if you would convey my thoughts. I am a mechanical engineer btw.
> Cheers and welcome to the forum.


Thanks for the warm welcome! I have passed on your concerns about the single bolt post to the engineering team. 
If the Pave post is setup properly and torqued to the correct value then it shouldn't be slipping on you; if it does slip you should contact your shop and Specialized Customer Service about a warranty.
The new C-GR post really is a game changer for riding on rough surfaces and we've done plenty of testing to ensure the clamp on these posts is secure while riding over rough terrain.


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## Specialized_Joe

ornoth said:


> Sorry to beat a dead horse, but... Rim brake options on all models, please.


Are you saying that you'd like rim brake options on all the road bikes?


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## Specialized_Joe

thumper8888 said:


> Now there is a good guess. And Venge Evo under Cav for TDF?
> 
> Oddly, I suspect Joe isn't going to answer that one, not smart marketing.
> 
> Here's a better one: Joe, can you guys make just one thing that DOENST fit well?
> I'm sick of looking like a fan boy. The shoes, even the damn helmets, seem made for me. Something has to go.



I can't really comment on our unreleased products. I'll leave that for you all to speculate :thumbsup:

And yes, our equipment team really produces some top notch products, I'm glad you like 'em!


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## Dunbar

roadworthy said:


> It is not a bad idea to scrub the cable guide with a firm bristle brush...with cables in place....with some soapy water from time to time in fact.


I think I'll start doing this with a toothbrush every 2-3 weeks when I wash the bike. I took a look at mine last night and with ~2500 miles on the cables they were noticeably dirty. 

I can see the point of having a drain for the frame in that spot. But the cables/housings are so tight that I don't you need to expose them there for drainage purposes.


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## mcwenzel

Specialized_Joe said:


> @mcwenzel
> 
> I'm really sorry to hear about the shifting saga on your bike-I understand how frustrating that can be for both you and the shop. We are aware of shifting issues on the Roubaix SL3 that affected some users.
> We made a revised ICR entry kit as well as a revised BB cable guide kit that solved most issues. Do you know if you the shop installed those parts?


Thanks - I will check and see if these parts have been installed.


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## darwinosx

I second a desire for Speedplay specific shoes but I would be happy if Specialized at least had their road shoes in stock.
I have a 2014 Roubaix Expert which is a great bike but I am not real happy with the wheels. At this price point I think Specialized cheaped out on rims and hubs. The rims have a noticeable seam which thumped when I brake and in general do not match the quality of the rest of the components. i replaced them with custom wheels with Ultegra hubs and Hed C2 rims.
Also not thrilled with the FSA crank instead of Ultegra.
Also why on earth is the only Roubaix with Ultegra Di2 a disc brake bike? Really odd to me and I would have probably bought a Di2 Roubaix instead of mechanical even though mechanical 6800 is really good. I almost bought another brand because of this. Introduction of disc brake bikes while denying your customers Di2 Ultegra sounds more like Specialized serving their needs instead of their customers.
Would like to see a Secteur with Ultegra like the Allez with Ultegra.
*Bonus* for the SL 4 in all ranges instead of higher end. I did not buy a Specialized bike previously because the only frames I liked were the higher end and I thought the price was too high compared to other alternatives like Giant that were just as good but cheaper. I am not all that price sensitive but felt the price was too high and smacked of gouging on the previous higher end frames.
I will repeat that Specialized seems to have major issues with keeping items in stock. People can't buy your products if you don't have them to sell so i wonder what is up with your supply chain management.




Specialized_Joe said:


> Absolutely. I think Speedplay pedals offer a lot of performance advantages...you never know, maybe we'll do something in the future!
> Plenty of riders use our shoes with their pedals and it works great, so don't let the lack of a specific shoe stop you


----------



## darwinosx

Regarding that post...I was told by my LBS that there is a weight limit on it of 220 lbs. Accurate?



Specialized_Joe said:


> Thanks for the warm welcome! I have passed on your concerns about the single bolt post to the engineering team.
> If the Pave post is setup properly and torqued to the correct value then it shouldn't be slipping on you; if it does slip you should contact your shop and Specialized Customer Service about a warranty.
> The new C-GR post really is a game changer for riding on rough surfaces and we've done plenty of testing to ensure the clamp on these posts is secure while riding over rough terrain.


----------



## darwinosx

Seconded.



ornoth said:


> Sorry to beat a dead horse, but... Rim brake options on all models, please.


----------



## carbonLORD

I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.

More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A *complete* group.

Stop making wheels. If someone wants $2200 60mm deep clinchers they will pay the extra money and go with the wheel experts like Zipp, HED and ENVE.

I really do not need a speedplay specific shoe but its been almost a year and inventory on S-Works shoes, the Evade helmet and many of your frames has been out of stock for almost a year. You have virtually no S-Works Venge left in the warehouse, which tells me either an SL5 is on the way or somethings wrong.

Still, I am the proud owner of your S-Works Venge, S-Works shoes, even the 74's and the S-Works Evade in all black (which is not available in Europe for whatever reasoning) so I can't complain personally, but I would have made you more money if these things were available because I have lots of people who are interested, but wont miss another season over it.


----------



## darwinosx

Bingo. Specialized has lost sales to me in the past because of this practice. It's is also kind of an insult that they think people buying in this price range don't know these things and what they are doing.



carbonLORD said:


> I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.
> More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A *complete* group.


----------



## brianb21

carbonLORD said:


> I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.
> 
> More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A *complete* group.
> 
> Stop making wheels. If someone wants $2200 60mm deep clinchers they will pay the extra money and go with the wheel experts like Zipp, HED and ENVE.
> 
> I really do not need a speedplay specific shoe but its been almost a year and inventory on S-Works shoes, the Evade helmet and many of your frames has been out of stock for almost a year. You have virtually no S-Works Venge left in the warehouse, which tells me either an SL5 is on the way or somethings wrong.
> 
> Still, I am the proud owner of your S-Works Venge, S-Works shoes, even the 74's and the S-Works Evade in all black (which is not available in Europe for whatever reasoning) so I can't complain personally, but I would have made you more money if these things were available because I have lots of people who are interested, but wont miss another season over it.


Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!


----------



## darwinosx

Yep and I won't buy those bikes either. At Ultegra level I want the whole thing. Giant delivered this to me and Specialized did this year on the 2014 Roubaix except for crank. I didn't like last years wheels or this years at this price level but can't comment on the higher priced wheels. But $300 wheels (Fulcrum 4's) on a $4000 bike doesn't sit well with me.



brianb21 said:


> Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!


----------



## tednugent

brianb21 said:


> Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!


Wastes in design and manufacturing costs money and quality.

By focusing their design on a single type of bottom bracket (BB30), they can optimize the frame design on a single bottom bracket, have tooling for a single bottom bracket, etc. Small costs add up very quick. Big mistakes can happen very easily (bigger dollar mistakes).

Increased complexity with multiple BB designs make the manufacturing environment more difficult


----------



## brianb21

tednugent said:


> Wastes in design and manufacturing costs money and quality.
> 
> By focusing their design on a single type of bottom bracket (BB30), they can optimize the frame design on a single bottom bracket, have tooling for a single bottom bracket, etc. Small costs add up very quick. Big mistakes can happen very easily (bigger dollar mistakes).
> 
> Increased complexity with multiple BB designs make the manufacturing environment more difficult


If an FSA crank fits a bike doesnt an ultegra crank? Not trying to be a wise ass just trying to understand with my limited knowledge of specing out a bike.


----------



## RoadEye

brianb21 said:


> If an FSA crank fits a bike doesnt an ultegra crank? Not trying to be a wise ass just trying to understand with my limited knowledge of specing out a bike.


shimano cranks don't play well with BB30's. there needs to be an 'adapter' of sorts. surely can be done as many have done and will do on framesets. I agree this is a money issue.


----------



## vertr

RoadEye said:


> shimano cranks don't play well with BB30's. there needs to be an 'adapter' of sorts. surely can be done as many have done and will do on framesets. I agree this is a money issue.


Specialized framesets ALL come with Shimano adapters.


----------



## tednugent

vertr said:


> Specialized framesets ALL come with Shimano adapters.


only if you choose to buy a frameset and build it up.

Shimano adapters don't come with complete bikes.


----------



## vertr

tednugent said:


> only if you choose to buy a frameset and build it up.


That is what "frameset" means.


----------



## George M

roadworthy said:


> What 'piece of hose'? The 2011-2014 needs nothing more than it already has.
> Its a great design the way it is.


Is there a channel built into the BB, that they don't use that hose I had in my 2007 ? After breaking through the dirt, the cable slid in with no problem. I was kind of worried about pulling it out again, but wanted to try it and the cable went back in with no problem.


----------



## roadworthy

George M said:


> Is there a channel built into the BB, that they don't use that hose I had in my 2007 ? After breaking through the dirt, the cable slid in with no problem. I was kind of worried about pulling it out again, but wanted to try it and the cable went back in with no problem.


George,
If you want any further advice, post of picture of the area of the bike you speak up and I will be happy to respond. No reason for any concern...perhaps you aren't, but a picture will help explain best practice for any issue you may have.


----------



## jnsptr

Hi Specialized_Joe,
what is the weight of the Tarmac SL4 FACT 9 frame and fork?
Thanks!


----------



## dkilburn

Specialized Joe,
Please tell me when the back order for a S Works Roubaix in silver, complete bike is coming.
Waiting from the fall of 2013.
Thanks,


----------



## bikingmeditation

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


For the Venge, have you explored hidden brake locations (e.g. behind the fork and seat tubes)?

What other areas are you exploring to change the Venge and make it even more aerodynamic?


----------



## bikingmeditation

Specialized_Joe said:


> Are you saying that you'd like rim brake options on all the road bikes?


yes, please. And if you could partner with Shimano for rim-hydraulic brakes, that would be perfect!


----------



## squareslinky

Hello Joe,

I was curious about Zipp (clincher) 303's and the S Works Tarmac SL4. I am hearing that there are 2 years of SL4's that you cannot use 303's and the new SL4 you can.

Can you use clincher 303's with the Tarmac SL4 or not?


----------



## NZPeterG

*Specialized feedback/questions?*



Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions or about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


Hi Joe Thanks for being on line 

My Question is are you going to make some larger Tubeless Tyres?

Yes I know you have S-WORKS TURBO TUBELESS 700c x 24mm
and ROUBAIX ROAD TUBELESS 700c x 23/25mm

I would love to ride S-WORKS TURBO TUBELESS 700c x 26mm or ROUBAIX ROAD TUBELESS 700c x 25/28mm.

Keep up the good work :thumbsup:

Kiwi Pete. . . . .


----------



## carbonLORD

I have some actual questions Joe! Ceramicspeed bearings come installed on my S-W Venge. I also see _some_ bearings come with the 2013 S-Works crank (Part #: 0621-1204). What are they? Steel? If my Ceramicspeed bearings go out of spec within the 2 year warranty they offer do I contact them, or go through Specialized? Also, on the S-W Crank I have there is no wave washer. Does the 3 point preload ring replace the necessity for the wave washer? Thanks.


----------



## LouisVuitton

Joe,

How about:
1. A 2014 S-Works Roubaix in the Black option for the frameset only?
2. Get rid of the FSA cranksets. Have them come with a Praxis PF30 bottom bracket so that your bikes can come with an actual Ultegra crankset.
3. Make the groupsets full ultegra, not have them include a 105 cassette. 
4. Offer a full matte black on all the S-works models. I don't care for the fancy color schemes and prefer a stealth, non-flashy black frame design that doesn't look dated after the new models come up the following year. 




Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

darwinosx said:


> I second a desire for Speedplay specific shoes but I would be happy if Specialized at least had their road shoes in stock.
> I have a 2014 Roubaix Expert which is a great bike but I am not real happy with the wheels. At this price point I think Specialized cheaped out on rims and hubs. The rims have a noticeable seam which thumped when I brake and in general do not match the quality of the rest of the components. i replaced them with custom wheels with Ultegra hubs and Hed C2 rims.
> Also not thrilled with the FSA crank instead of Ultegra.
> Also why on earth is the only Roubaix with Ultegra Di2 a disc brake bike? Really odd to me and I would have probably bought a Di2 Roubaix instead of mechanical even though mechanical 6800 is really good. I almost bought another brand because of this. Introduction of disc brake bikes while denying your customers Di2 Ultegra sounds more like Specialized serving their needs instead of their customers.
> Would like to see a Secteur with Ultegra like the Allez with Ultegra.
> *Bonus* for the SL 4 in all ranges instead of higher end. I did not buy a Specialized bike previously because the only frames I liked were the higher end and I thought the price was too high compared to other alternatives like Giant that were just as good but cheaper. I am not all that price sensitive but felt the price was too high and smacked of gouging on the previous higher end frames.
> I will repeat that Specialized seems to have major issues with keeping items in stock. People can't buy your products if you don't have them to sell so i wonder what is up with your supply chain management.



I'm really sorry to hear that you're disappointed in the stock wheels. You are speaking of the Fulcrum S4 wheels, correct? Did you speak to your LBS about it? Something like that should be covered by Fulcrum's warranty.

I completely understand your frustration about a lack of inventory. I am mostly involved in product development so I can't comment about things affecting the stock on hand.

Good thoughts about the spec on Roubaix and Secteur. We try and provide the best ride experience at every price point on all our bikes. The frame is the heart and soul of a quality bike, so we tend to err on the side of less costly parts on a high quality frame instead of dressing up a lower level frame with more expensive components.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

carbonLORD said:


> I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.
> 
> More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A *complete* group.
> 
> Stop making wheels. If someone wants $2200 60mm deep clinchers they will pay the extra money and go with the wheel experts like Zipp, HED and ENVE.
> 
> I really do not need a speedplay specific shoe but its been almost a year and inventory on S-Works shoes, the Evade helmet and many of your frames has been out of stock for almost a year. You have virtually no S-Works Venge left in the warehouse, which tells me either an SL5 is on the way or somethings wrong.
> 
> Still, I am the proud owner of your S-Works Venge, S-Works shoes, even the 74's and the S-Works Evade in all black (which is not available in Europe for whatever reasoning) so I can't complain personally, but I would have made you more money if these things were available because I have lots of people who are interested, but wont miss another season over it.



Good feedback, thanks!
Regarding wheels, have you ridden the CLX 40's or 60's? 
We have worked really hard over the past few years to make Roval a respected brand in the marketplace and feel they stack up very well to the competition in regards to weight, aerodynamics, ride quality, braking quality, etc...


----------



## Specialized_Joe

darwinosx said:


> Regarding that post...I was told by my LBS that there is a weight limit on it of 220 lbs. Accurate?


They are almost correct. Pretty much all of our carbon bikes and components, including the CG-R post, have a weight limit of 240lbs (109kg). Thanks for checking!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dkilburn said:


> Specialized Joe,
> Please tell me when the back order for a S Works Roubaix in silver, complete bike is coming.
> Waiting from the fall of 2013.
> Thanks,


Hey there,
Sorry to hear you've been waiting so long! Availability depends on your country, size, and colorway. I'm not too involved in the supply side of things but if you PM me with the other details I can try and look into it further. Thanks!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

bikingmeditation said:


> For the Venge, have you explored hidden brake locations (e.g. behind the fork and seat tubes)?
> 
> What other areas are you exploring to change the Venge and make it even more aerodynamic?


Great questions, although I can't really divulge what we've explored on that bike. Brake type and location certain comes into play. With the new wind tunnel at our disposal we're exploring any and all possibilities to gain more free speed on the Venge.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

NZPeterG said:


> Hi Joe Thanks for being on line
> 
> My Question is are you going to make some larger Tubeless Tyres?
> 
> Yes I know you have S-WORKS TURBO TUBELESS 700c x 24mm
> and ROUBAIX ROAD TUBELESS 700c x 23/25mm
> 
> I would love to ride S-WORKS TURBO TUBELESS 700c x 26mm or ROUBAIX ROAD TUBELESS 700c x 25/28mm.
> 
> Keep up the good work :thumbsup:
> 
> Kiwi Pete. . . . .



Hey there,
I can't say whats in the pipeline for tubeless tires but I definitely see the need. I spent some time down in NZ and could have used some 28mm tubeless tires myself!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

carbonLORD said:


> I have some actual questions Joe! Ceramicspeed bearings come installed on my S-W Venge. I also see _some_ bearings come with the 2013 S-Works crank (Part #: 0621-1204). What are they? Steel? If my Ceramicspeed bearings go out of spec within the 2 year warranty they offer do I contact them, or go through Specialized? Also, on the S-W Crank I have there is no wave washer. Does the 3 point preload ring replace the necessity for the wave washer? Thanks.


Hey there, finally some questions I can answer! :thumbsup:

The bearings that come with the cranks are a steel bearing-the same bearing that comes on the non SW bikes. 

CeramicSpeed should be the warranty contact on their bearings unless you are in a part of the world that they do not support. In that case, your LBS should contact their Specialized Service Center for warranty support.

You are correct. The newer cranks use the 3-point ring in lieu of the wave washer to adjust bearing preload. Take care to snug all 3 screws evenly so your cranks spin smoothly.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

LouisVuitton said:


> Joe,
> 
> How about:
> 1. A 2014 S-Works Roubaix in the Black option for the frameset only?
> 2. Get rid of the FSA cranksets. Have them come with a Praxis PF30 bottom bracket so that your bikes can come with an actual Ultegra crankset.
> 3. Make the groupsets full ultegra, not have them include a 105 cassette.
> 4. Offer a full matte black on all the S-works models. I don't care for the fancy color schemes and prefer a stealth, non-flashy black frame design that doesn't look dated after the new models come up the following year.



Thanks for the feedback. Our 2014 bikes aren't undergoing any more changes for the year as they are already in production and out in the markets. Stay tuned for next year's bikes though!


----------



## carbonLORD

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there, finally some questions I can answer! :thumbsup:
> 
> The bearings that come with the cranks are a steel bearing-the same bearing that comes on the non SW bikes.
> 
> CeramicSpeed should be the warranty contact on their bearings unless you are in a part of the world that they do not support. In that case, your LBS should contact their Specialized Service Center for warranty support.
> 
> You are correct. The newer cranks use the 3-point ring in lieu of the wave washer to adjust bearing preload. Take care to snug all 3 screws evenly so your cranks spin smoothly.


Thanks Joe!

Ceramic speed is sending me a replacement without question. Great that you teamed up with such a reputable company. Thanks for answering my question on the wave washer as well.

Regarding the other comment on wheels. I agree the CLX 40 and 60 are a major improvement from previous models and do ride nice. However for the msrp it seems a little high when you consider other options out there.

My last comment, I see a new S-Works Toupe saddle on the web site but someone forgot to program the specs and features, just a blank page with 3 images. Thought I'd point it out incase it was overlooked. Looks like I'll be getting a new saddle soon . Thanks again for everything.

s:cL


----------



## LyfordCay

I had asked the Masterlink FAQ group about the possibility of having another Spring Classics sale this year. They stated it would occur in mid March. Is that still going to happen?


----------



## frdfandc

LouisVuitton said:


> Joe,
> 
> 3. Make the groupsets full ultegra, not have them include a 105 cassette.



My Roubaix Expert comes with the Ultegra Cassette and chain. The Roubaix Comp does not.


----------



## Mckdaddy

frdfandc said:


> My Roubaix Expert comes with the Ultegra Cassette and chain.


Just bought my Expert on March 3rd, it too came w/ the above Ultegra


----------



## Coolhand

*Moderators Note*

All of the off topic posts have been removed. Please stay on point going forward. And use the [!] button to report posts. Mods can't be everywhere at once, especially with our spammer friends about. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mckdaddy

Coolhand said:


> All of the off topic posts have been removed. Please stay on point going forward. And use the [!] button to report posts. Mods can't be everywhere at once, especially with our spammer friends about. :thumbsup:


Thanks, +1


----------



## David23

On the Specialized website it shows a (what looks to be) new SL S-Works stem, almost all black and very sleek, but not available? Does this stem have the adjustable angle shims, and when will it be available?


----------



## Tranzition

Hi Specialized_Joe,

Is there any way I can order a Roubaix SL4 Expert in one of the other Roubaix colors?

I just want a basic _*white*_. I'd even settle for the _*blue *_of the Roubaix SL4 Pro Race or the _*yellow *_of the SL4 Expert Ultegra Di2 Disc. (But I like the components and build of the Expert model.)

This past past summer I was eagerly awaiting the 2014 models and all set to finally upgrade to a Roubaix, but then was very disappointed with the matte black and silver color options. (So much so, that I still haven't been able to get myself to pull the trigger since the color just doesn't feel right.)

Hoping there's a way to order one in white or in one of the different 2014 colors.

Thanks!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

David23 said:


> On the Specialized website it shows a (what looks to be) new SL S-Works stem, almost all black and very sleek, but not available? Does this stem have the adjustable angle shims, and when will it be available?


The S-Works SL stem does _not_ have the adjustable shims. Availability is pretty dependent on size and your country. It looks like there are a few sizes in stock in the USA right now; I'm not sure about other countries. 
These stems come on lots of the high end road bikes as well. Its possible that your local dealer would have a take off stem or two around also.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Tranzition said:


> Hi Specialized_Joe,
> 
> Is there any way I can order a Roubaix SL4 Expert in one of the other Roubaix colors?
> 
> I just want a basic _*white*_. I'd even settle for the _*blue *_of the Roubaix SL4 Pro Race or the _*yellow *_of the SL4 Expert Ultegra Di2 Disc. (But I like the components and build of the Expert model.)
> 
> This past past summer I was eagerly awaiting the 2014 models and all set to finally upgrade to a Roubaix, but then was very disappointed with the matte black and silver color options. (So much so, that I still haven't been able to get myself to pull the trigger since the color just doesn't feel right.)
> 
> Hoping there's a way to order one in white or in one of the different 2014 colors.
> 
> Thanks!


Hey there,
Unfortunately, there isn't an easy way to order that Expert model in your desired colorway. Its worth checking in with your local dealer to see if they might do a frame swap with another bike for you. Or put the word out here on the forums, there are always other folks in the same boat as yourself. Maybe you can work out a swap with another forum member. Good luck!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

squareslinky said:


> Hello Joe,
> 
> I was curious about Zipp (clincher) 303's and the S Works Tarmac SL4. I am hearing that there are 2 years of SL4's that you cannot use 303's and the new SL4 you can.
> 
> Can you use clincher 303's with the Tarmac SL4 or not?


Good question,
All 2014 Tarmac SL4 frames are compatible with the 303 wheels. Some 2013 frames _might_ be compatible as well. We made the change to the frame during the production of those bikes. All 2012 Tarmac SL4 frames are _not _compatible with those wheels. Let me know if you have any further questions!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

jnsptr said:


> Hi Specialized_Joe,
> what is the weight of the Tarmac SL4 FACT 9 frame and fork?
> Thanks!


Hey there, 
Sorry I missed your question last time through here....
I actually don't have a bare 9R frame here to weigh, they are all built up. However, the 56cm 10R frame with paint is 1012g and the fork is 355g with paint and 260mm steer tube. I imagine the 9R frameset is just a bit heavier. Also, keep in mind that these numbers vary + or - a bit due to paint and layup as well.


----------



## Penfold77

Joe, or anyone else !!


I have just ridden my 2014 sl4 tarmac for the first time, it's my first specialized and all I can say is wow, amazing bike very very happy with it. How ever, I have a rattle :mad2: 
Im pretty sure it's coming from the top tube, the rear brake cable is rattling.
has anyone had this problem, how did you fix it or has anyone got any suggestion ?

many thanks.


----------



## NZPeterG

*Yes*



Penfold77 said:


> Joe, or anyone else !!
> 
> 
> I have just ridden my 2014 sl4 tarmac for the first time, it's my first specialized and all I can say is wow, amazing bike very very happy with it. How ever, I have a rattle :mad2:
> Im pretty sure it's coming from the top tube, the rear brake cable is rattling.
> has anyone had this problem, how did you fix it or has anyone got any suggestion ?
> 
> many thanks.


Hi Yes there is a fix,

https://vimeo.com/23917838

Watch from 04:48 on with the easy fix.
All the Best and Happy Cycling 

Kiwi Pete :thumbsup:


----------



## Penfold77

NZPeterG said:


> Hi Yes there is a fix,
> 
> https://vimeo.com/23917838
> 
> Watch from 04:48 on with the easy fix.
> All the Best and Happy Cycling
> 
> Kiwi Pete :thumbsup:



Thats great thank you, I now have my Sunday afternoon job, of course it needs a test ride !!


----------



## dkilburn

Thanks, do you know if they do a similar video for electronic cabling?


----------



## NCmeatgrinder

Is there any structural differences betwen the 2013 and 2014 Tarmac's, or is it cosmetic only?


----------



## NCmeatgrinder

Are there any structural differences between the 2013 and 2014 Tarmac?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

NCmeatgrinder said:


> Are there any structural differences between the 2013 and 2014 Tarmac?


As a platform, Tarmac did not change for the 2014 model year. However, the SL4 frame, which was previously available only in the Pro or S-Works level, is now standard on all Tarmac models. So the Comp, Elite, and Sport level bikes are definitely an upgrade over their comparable 2013 model.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dkilburn said:


> Thanks, do you know if they do a similar video for electronic cabling?


Hey there, 
I don't think we have a video specifically for Di2 installation but we do have a service guide to help you out. Its located here: 
http://service.specialized.com/coll...-Routing--Tarmac-Amira--Instruction-Guide.pdf

Feel free to PM me if you need any additional help!


----------



## bikingmeditation

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> EDIT:
> If you have a new question, its much easier for me to find and answer if you select "Reply to Thread" instead of just replying to someone else's post. Otherwise I'm liable to miss your question all together. Thanks!


I am waiting on the internal battery mount for my Di2 Venge. Do you know when these will be available?


----------



## bikingmeditation

Is there any way to get this Toupe saddle from Specialized?

https://www.spokeshop.com/images/library/large/spec_2720_1270_1280_10_m.jpg


----------



## Specialized_Joe

bikingmeditation said:


> I am waiting on the internal battery mount for my Di2 Venge. Do you know when these will be available?


Hey there,
Those mounts should be available now in the USA as a service part. Part# is S136800017. I'm not sure about their availability elsewhere in the world.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

bikingmeditation said:


> Is there any way to get this Toupe saddle from Specialized?
> 
> https://www.spokeshop.com/images/library/large/spec_2720_1270_1280_10_m.jpg


Unfortunately, we are no longer making that specific Toupe model. Its possible that your local dealer has one in stock still though. Good luck in your search!


----------



## BluesDawg

Glad to see this thread back on track. Joe, I have a Roval SLX 23 wheelset from late 2012 when everything was 10 speed. Is it possible to convert the rear wheel to work with 11 speed Ultegra?


----------



## roadworthy

BluesDawg said:


> Glad to see this thread back on track. Joe, I have a Roval SLX 23 wheelset from late 2012 when everything was 10 speed. Is it possible to convert the rear wheel to work with 11 speed Ultegra?


Deleted


----------



## BluesDawg

Thanks, but I'd rather hear Specialized Joe speak for himself.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

BluesDawg said:


> Glad to see this thread back on track. Joe, I have a Roval SLX 23 wheelset from late 2012 when everything was 10 speed. Is it possible to convert the rear wheel to work with 11 speed Ultegra?


Hey there,
That wheel can certainly be converted to work with 11 speed Ultegra. All you need to change is the freehub body and driveside endcap (which are sold as a kit). It is a standard DT Swiss part. Its part# HWYABX00S2775S, shown here. 
It should be available through multiple suppliers, including Specialized. Your local dealer should be able to order that for you; the Specialized service part # is S132100008. 
Feel free to contact me know if you have any other questions.


----------



## roadworthy

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> That wheel can certainly be converted to work with 11 speed Ultegra. All you need to change is the freehub body and driveside endcap (which are sold as a kit). It is a standard DT Swiss part. Its part# HWYABX00S2775S, shown here.
> It should be available through multiple suppliers, including Specialized. Your local dealer should be able to order that for you; the Specialized service part # is S132100008.
> Feel free to contact me know if you have any other questions.


That's good advice Joe. Many Shimano based wheelsets cannot be converted from 10 to 11s without a replacement rear hub/freehub and redish. Fulcrum wheelsets can be converted as well with a simple freehub swap for those interested.


----------



## stealle

roadworthy said:


> Joe,
> Love your products.
> Have to ask about the new COBL seatpost which directionally is great concept and maybe the future of more rigid rear triangle with compliancy built into the seatpost. But why in the world did the engineers go with a single Pave style bolt spec'ed at 10 ft-lbs to keep in place? A disappointment. I rode the Pave post with identical single bolt and it would lose its tilt adjustment on rough roads. Tell your chief engineer he should have made it 2 bolt like all other top seatposts on the market including Specialized very own 2 bolt seatpost. Your engineers could have easily made it a 2 bolt micro adjustable post that would never lose adjustment and be adjusted with lower torque.
> 
> Please let me know if you would convey my thoughts. I am a mechanical engineer btw.
> Cheers and welcome to the forum.


I think I've read this entire thread. If anything more was mentioned about the COBL seatpost, I missed it. I'm considering this COBL seatpost, but this comment about the single pave style bolt concerns me. I don't want to buy a $200 seatpost that I have to frequently re-adjust. I'm a Clydesdale so if it's going to happen, I'm sure it'll happen to me. 

Are many people having this problem? If so, what is Specialized solution?


----------



## roadworthy

stealle said:


> I think I've read this entire thread. If anything more was mentioned about the COBL seatpost, I missed it. I'm considering this COBL seatpost, but this comment about the single pave style bolt concerns me. I don't want to buy a $200 seatpost that I have to frequently re-adjust. *I'm a Clydesdale so if it's going to happen, I'm sure it'll happen to me.
> *
> Are many people having this problem? If so, what is Specialized solution?


Not necessarily...in bold...especially if you torque the bolt to a full 120 in-lbs and that compression joint is clean.
It depends on many factors...type of roads you ride...where you position your saddle in the seat clamp...even how much bar drop you ride and tire pressure over and above your body weight.
Extrapolating from the Pave single bolt post design isn't apples to apples because the load path is attenuated by the nature of the post which is to flex. It is the spike load that unseats the clamp and changes the tilt and this post is more accommodating by design compared to the Pave single bolt post.

So your mileage may vary is the bottom line. The point of bringing it up is...it could have been designed to not slip with a wider variance of torque and a reduced torque.
So you may want to roll the dice and give it a try because the upside is a considerable improvement to ride compliancy.. If it doesn't work, you could always ebay it and get close to what you paid.
I will tell you I have never felt a need for one on my SL3 Roubaix but the SL4 was designed to have a stiffer rear triangle.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

roadworthy said:


> That's good advice Joe. Many Shimano based wheelsets cannot be converted from 10 to 11s without a replacement rear hub/freehub and redish. Fulcrum wheelsets can be converted as well with a simple freehub swap for those interested.


Technically the OLD does increase from 130 to 131mm and the dish would be off by .5mm - a _very_ small amount that is generally within the dishing tolerance to begin with.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

stealle said:


> I think I've read this entire thread. If anything more was mentioned about the COBL seatpost, I missed it. I'm considering this COBL seatpost, but this comment about the single pave style bolt concerns me. I don't want to buy a $200 seatpost that I have to frequently re-adjust. I'm a Clydesdale so if it's going to happen, I'm sure it'll happen to me.
> 
> Are many people having this problem? If so, what is Specialized solution?


Hey there,
I did respond to roadworthy's original comment (see post #36). 
When properly setup, i.e., torqued to spec, slipping should _not_ be a problem. I don't know of any recurring issues in the field. We've done extensive testing and the post has been used in CX racing with riders doing a running remount without issues. You mention you're a clydesdale...the CG-R seatpost does have a 240 lb. rider weight limit so take that into consideration as well.


----------



## George M

Hi Joe, I was wondering why Specialized doesn't,have some kind of guide for putting the front cable trough the bb, for the front derailleur. I have it now, but I had to play with it for a while before I got it.


----------



## BluesDawg

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> That wheel can certainly be converted to work with 11 speed Ultegra. All you need to change is the freehub body and driveside endcap (which are sold as a kit). It is a standard DT Swiss part. Its part# HWYABX00S2775S, shown here.
> It should be available through multiple suppliers, including Specialized. Your local dealer should be able to order that for you; the Specialized service part # is S132100008.
> Feel free to contact me know if you have any other questions.


Thanks! That's what I was hoping. Just to be clear, will this require redishing the rear wheel or is it a simple plug and play?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

BluesDawg said:


> Thanks! That's what I was hoping. Just to be clear, will this require redishing the rear wheel or is it a simple plug and play?


You do _not_ need to redish the rear wheel. Thanks for checking!


----------



## BluesDawg

Specialized_Joe said:


> You do _not_ need to redish the rear wheel. Thanks for checking!


Great! Thank you.


----------



## David23

Joe, what is the best way to hold a Specialized carbon frame with a standard work stand? The frame tubes are not round as the work stand clamp seems to be designed for, and the seat post on a Venge is also not round.


----------



## George M

Just a thought, do you have a spare seat post that you could use?


----------



## roadworthy

George M said:


> Just a thought, do you have a spare seat post that you could use?


Most don't own a spare $200 Venge seatpost....George, the seat post for the Venge is triangular in cross-section to be aero and generic posts, unlike round 27.2mm Tarmac and Roubaix posts won't fit the Venge frameset.

A good question that David asks Joe. I will give you my feedback David as a guy who has wrenched on a few different brand aero frames with proprietary/triangular section posts.

I personally NEVER clamp to the frameset on any bike and always to the seatpost. That said, some wrenching on the frame...certain crank installations in particular...like tightening threaded BB cups..or lateral tapping of BB30 bearings should never be performed on a stand. It puts too much torque on the frameset at a single contact point to the stand. Instead, quickly install wheels with tires, place on the ground and perform higher force BB work on the ground by leaning over the frame with wheels solidly on the ground...never on a stand. If you go out on youtube and watch some of the so called mechanics work on bikes, there is tremendous abuse...a lot of lateral pressure on seatposts applied by torque placed on the BB....framesets/seat tubes aren't designed for this kind of load path.

So what to do with triangular aka aero section seat posts? Park makes a bellcrank stand clamp that fits such a post perfectly and is very secure. If you want to ensure that the clamp will not mar the seatpost, wrap it with a micro fiber towel and then crank the clamp firmly around the post. I have never had and issue doing this.

Below is the Park Clamp that I use...square shaped rubber clad clamp profile captures the triangular post perfectly and frames are very secure on the stand. Of course works very well for round posts as well:


----------



## digibud

I recently took a bike vacation and bought a CGR seat post. Oddly it came with instructions for the Pave seat post that included admonitions to use an angled collar or it might kill me (it actually warned that failure to do so could result in death). I am going to install this on my wife's 2011 Ruby Comp unless I need some special collar that was not included or learn of some other incompatibility but inasmuch as the included instruction sheet was not for the CGR seatpost itself I'm a bit stumped and hopeful I don't kill my wife by failing to get the correct seatpost collar. Can you help me save the life of my wife, Joe?


----------



## reptilezs

does the 74 road shoe have a wider last than the standard s works shoe?


----------



## Peter P.

David23 said:


> Joe, what is the best way to hold a Specialized carbon frame with a standard work stand? The frame tubes are not round as the work stand clamp seems to be designed for, and the seat post on a Venge is also not round.


Sadly, there is no good solution with a standard workstand.

Your best bet is the Park Tool PRS-20 stand.


----------



## roadworthy

Peter P. said:


> *Sadly, there is no good solution with a standard workstand.
> *
> Your best bet is the Park Tool PRS-20 stand.


I would take exception to this...in bold. A standard workstand works fine hanging off an aero seatpost as I noted above. The thing you have to watch is...you don't want to place lateral pressure on a frame with a single clamp connection to the seatpost. F X D = Torque you don't want to impart laterally to the seat post tube/clamp. The infrequent times a mechanic needs to impart higher lateral force to the frame....put the wheels on the bike and do it on the ground as I noted earlier.

That said, the pro stand is great for bike building and no question it is much more secure for lateral force imparted while working on the BB. But unless you protect the paint under the BB, it will get scuffed on such a stand...if not only slightly. This can be mitigated with placing a work rag under the BB and then strapping it to the stand however. Does this matter to pro teams or less than anal carbon bike owners? Not in the least. So that stand has its place without a doubt. But it effectively blocks the bottom of the BB for internal cable routing for example...or routing E-tube wires for Di2...so a frame can't be held in one position for a complete build on that stand either. I say for the average home guy who say only builds 1-5 bikes a years...aero post or not, a basic Park Home Work stand works fine.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

George M said:


> Hi Joe, I was wondering why Specialized doesn't,have some kind of guide for putting the front cable trough the bb, for the front derailleur. I have it now, but I had to play with it for a while before I got it.


Hey there,
Sorry to hear that got you all jammed up! 
Are you referring to having an instruction guide for routing the cable? My guess is that routing the front derailleur cable through a hole behind the bb is a pretty common thing within the industry. Most shop mechanics seem to be already familiar with setting bikes up like that; and now you are too. :thumbsup:


----------



## Specialized_Joe

David23 said:


> Joe, what is the best way to hold a Specialized carbon frame with a standard work stand? The frame tubes are not round as the work stand clamp seems to be designed for, and the seat post on a Venge is also not round.


Hey there,
As some others have already mentioned, its not a good idea to clamp a carbon frame (or really any frame) in a workstand. The arms on those clamps have lots of leverage and can crush the thin walls on a top tube or seat tube! 
I like using the Park Micro-Adjust Clamp, especially for aero seatposts like on the Venge and Shiv. I also like using a dropout mounted stand like this for road bike builds --a stand like this is probably your best bet if you don't have the seatpost handy.


----------



## George M

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> Sorry to hear that got you all jammed up!
> Are you referring to having an instruction guide for routing the cable? My guess is that routing the front derailleur cable through a hole behind the bb is a pretty common thing within the industry. Most shop mechanics seem to be already familiar with setting bikes up like that; and now you are too. :thumbsup:


Thanks Joe, I did get it, but I was somewhat worried for a while. I did go to the shop after I got it and asked what the secret was. They showed me how they did it and it will be easer next time for me lol.

I'm glad to see you hanging around here Joe. You have really helped out here. A lot of times I sooner get my information from someone that knows, or maybe I should say from the horses mouth. Have a good day.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

reptilezs said:


> does the 74 road shoe have a wider last than the standard s works shoe?


Hey there,
The 74 road shoe does use a wider last than the newest (2013) S-Works shoe. It uses the same last as the previous S-Works shoe (2011-12). Also keep in mind that the fit can end up slightly different due to the fact that the 74 shoe uses Kangaroo leather which will stretch (and shrink) a bit more than the other shoes do.

Is boston bicycle mechanic your blog? There are some great ideas on there! :thumbsup:


----------



## Specialized_Joe

digibud said:


> I recently took a bike vacation and bought a CGR seat post. Oddly it came with instructions for the Pave seat post that included admonitions to use an angled collar or it might kill me (it actually warned that failure to do so could result in death). I am going to install this on my wife's 2011 Ruby Comp unless I need some special collar that was not included or learn of some other incompatibility but inasmuch as the included instruction sheet was not for the CGR seatpost itself I'm a bit stumped and hopeful I don't kill my wife by failing to get the correct seatpost collar. Can you help me save the life of my wife, Joe?


Yikes, I'm really under some pressure now! 

Sorry for the confusion about the manual for the CG-R post. It does in fact use the same manual as the Pave seatpost since the head and clamping information is identical for each of them.

In regards to the angled seat collar, her Ruby should have that collar already installed. We use the angled collar so that the load applied by the clamping bolt doesn't "pinch" the frame and seatpost at a single point like some non-angled collars would. The biggest thing is to be sure the collar is positioned so that the bolt is 180* from the slot in the frame tube (as shown in Fig. 2 on the manual) and that its torqued to the proper 6.2 N*m.

Hopefully that helps...Let me know if you need anything else!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

George M said:


> Thanks Joe, I did get it, but I was somewhat worried for a while. I did go to the shop after I got it and asked what the secret was. They showed me how they did it and it will be easer next time for me lol.
> 
> I'm glad to see you hanging around here Joe. You have really helped out here. A lot of times I sooner get my information from someone that knows, or maybe I should say from the horses mouth. Have a good day.


Thanks for the kind words. Navigating the internet forums can often be daunting when trying to get the correct info you need - although there are plenty of smart folks contributing good info on here too!


----------



## George M

Joe, one more from me if you don't mind. Why doe's Specialized say to not put any spacers on top of the stem? Thanks again.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

George M said:


> Joe, one more from me if you don't mind. Why doe's Specialized say to not put any spacers on top of the stem? Thanks again.


Are you referring to our multi-position stems and the manual here? If so, the reason is two fold. 

1) The expander plug helps support a carbon steer tube from the stem clamping force. If you place a bunch of spacers on top of the stem it will sit "too low" on the steer tube and clamp where there is no support and you could compromise the steerer.

2) The shim that goes inside the adjustable angle stem causes spacers to sit funny when they are on top of it. There is a specially designed offset top cap that is designed to sit flush on top of the stem. 

Note that the above is _only_ the case for the multi-position stems with adjustable shims. For all other stems, its probably a good idea to leave a 5mm spacer on top.


----------



## goodboyr

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> As some others have already mentioned, its not a good idea to clamp a carbon frame (or really any frame) in a workstand. The arms on those clamps have lots of leverage and can crush the thin walls on a top tube or seat tube!
> I like using the Park Micro-Adjust Clamp, especially for aero seatposts like on the Venge and Shiv. I also like using a dropout mounted stand like this for road bike builds --a stand like this is probably your best bet if you don't have the seatpost handy.


The Park PRS-20 is a great stand. It has a nice soft rubber support for the BB area, and the rubber support is elevated to allow access to under the BB. Its the best stand for carbon bikes where you are concerned about crushing the tubes.


----------



## reptilezs

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> The 74 road shoe does use a wider last than the newest (2013) S-Works shoe. It uses the same last as the previous S-Works shoe (2011-12). Also keep in mind that the fit can end up slightly different due to the fact that the 74 shoe uses Kangaroo leather which will stretch (and shrink) a bit more than the other shoes do.
> 
> Is boston bicycle mechanic your blog? There are some great ideas on there! :thumbsup:


yes that is my blog. i need the wider shoe because my arch collapses under pressure and i have flat feet. the wide s works shoe is not on evangelist so i will order the 74 shoe.


----------



## George M

Specialized_Joe said:


> Are you referring to our multi-position stems and the manual here? If so, the reason is two fold.
> 
> 1) The expander plug helps support a carbon steer tube from the stem clamping force. If you place a bunch of spacers on top of the stem it will sit "too low" on the steer tube and clamp where there is no support and you could compromise the steerer.
> 
> 2) The shim that goes inside the adjustable angle stem causes spacers to sit funny when they are on top of it. There is a specially designed offset top cap that is designed to sit flush on top of the stem.
> 
> Note that the above is _only_ the case for the multi-position stems with adjustable shims. For all other stems, its probably a good idea to leave a 5mm spacer on top.


No Joe, I have a 3T stem -/+ 6 % and I have it flipped down and I was thinking about taking one of 5mm spacers and putting it on top. That's to start, possibly going lower, but I have to see how it feels first. I have a size 61 so there isn't much more I can drop the bars and I may not. Again I'll have to see how it feels. Thanks again.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

George M said:


> No Joe, I have a 3T stem -/+ 6 % and I have it flipped down and I was thinking about taking one of 5mm spacers and putting it on top. That's to start, possibly going lower, but I have to see how it feels first. I have a size 61 so there isn't much more I can drop the bars and I may not. Again I'll have to see how it feels. Thanks again.


It's just fine to do that. Thanks for checking!


----------



## George M

Specialized_Joe said:


> It's just fine to do that. Thanks for checking!


Thanks again Joe, and yes there are a lot of people on here that know there stuff. I still have a lot to learn and it's a good forum for that.


----------



## brianb21

Hi Joe,

I have had a E5 smartweld frame on order now for 6 weeks. I have sworks shoes on order and gloves. All of it is back ordered and keeps getting pushed back. When is this stuff expected . I hate waiting lol!

thanks for the info.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

brianb21 said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> I have had a E5 smartweld frame on order now for 6 weeks. I have sworks shoes on order and gloves. All of it is back ordered and keeps getting pushed back. When is this stuff expected . I hate waiting lol!
> 
> thanks for the info.



Hey there, Sorry to hear you're still waiting...I know it sucks!
If your dealer has an order in the system for those items they should be able to get accurate arrival info from their sales rep. I might be able to find some info...PM me with exactly what size and color of everything you're looking for and I can look into it.


----------



## stealle

Looking forward to getting my '14 Roubaix Comp. It should arrive soon.

It comes with Ultegra 6800 cassette and front/rear derailers, but axis brakes. I'm wondering if Specialized will use the polymer coated Ultegra 6800 shifting cables. Does anyone know?


----------



## digibud

thanks. I figured as much but it's great to get confirmation. As far as anything else, mushroom pizza comes to mind.... 

We still have an inch of ice on our local road but we're throwing the road bikes in the car to get to the busier, drier roads. Road riding season is opening up in AK. Finally!


----------



## dton13

Hey Joe,

I sent you a PM couple weeks back wondering if you had any updated info on the Plug and Play fenders with a Roubaix. Not sure if you received it or you're still waiting for information. 

Cheers


----------



## Stumpjumper FSR

Hi Joe,

Can you tell me what model stem this is, my dealer says its a SL take off from an Sworks but I'm not so sure.


----------



## giro_man

What is the largest clincher tire that the Roubaix SL4 handle? In Paris Roubaix, size 30 tubulars were used on the rear and 28 on the front. Can a larger tire be used? Comparatively, the Cervelo R3 Mud used in Paris Roubaix has been reported by owners to be able to handle a size 32 cyclocross tire. However, the Cervelo R3 Mud was produced in limited quantity and is rare. Consequently, the Roubaix is of interest.


----------



## Dunbar

giro_man said:


> What is the largest clincher tire that the Roubaix SL4 handle?


Largest confirmed is 30 front and rear. You might be able to get a 700x32 in the back but it will be tight. Any wider than that and you'll need to start looking at Cross frames. Trek Boone would be high on my list for cross bikes.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/specialized/tire-clearance-2014-roubaix-318663.html


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Stumpjumper FSR said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> Can you tell me what model stem this is, my dealer says its a SL take off from an Sworks but I'm not so sure.


Hey there,
That is a Specialized stem, however its not the S-Works SL stem. The stem in your pictures comes on the higher end Epic and Camber models but isn't sold aftermarket so it doesn't have a good "model" name. It is a very nice stem, almost identical in look and spec to the Syntace F109 stem. Hopefully that helps!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

giro_man said:


> What is the largest clincher tire that the Roubaix SL4 handle? In Paris Roubaix, size 30 tubulars were used on the rear and 28 on the front. Can a larger tire be used? Comparatively, the Cervelo R3 Mud used in Paris Roubaix has been reported by owners to be able to handle a size 32 cyclocross tire. However, the Cervelo R3 Mud was produced in limited quantity and is rare. Consequently, the Roubaix is of interest.


Hey there,
I'm hesitant to give a largest tire size that "fits" on the Roubaix. As you probably know, rim width can have a lot to do with tire clearance. Additionally, there are differences between claimed and actual widths of tires. I can't recommend anything wider than a 28mm tire on there. Dunbar linked to another thread discussing tire clearance...that may have some info of interest to you. 
Whatever you run, just make sure it has some extra wiggle room. I tried putting 28mm tires on my Tarmac before...it spun fine in the stand but rubbed some paint of my chainstays while riding!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

stealle said:


> Looking forward to getting my '14 Roubaix Comp. It should arrive soon.
> 
> It comes with Ultegra 6800 cassette and front/rear derailers, but axis brakes. I'm wondering if Specialized will use the polymer coated Ultegra 6800 shifting cables. Does anyone know?


Hey there, sorry I missed your question the last time around.
All Ultegra 6800 bikes will come with the new Shimano cables and housing. Its good stuff and certainly makes a difference on that groupset. Enjoy the new bike!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dton13 said:


> Hey Joe,
> 
> I sent you a PM couple weeks back wondering if you had any updated info on the Plug and Play fenders with a Roubaix. Not sure if you received it or you're still waiting for information.
> 
> Cheers


Thanks for the reminder! I finally was able to track down the full scoop on them...I was getting conflicting info here as well. 

The Plug and Play fenders are not technically compatible with the Roubaix Disc. However, the rear fits perfectly fine. The front fender rubs on the fork legs but can be made to fit with one of the following modifications. You could file off some material from the fender or bend the fender slightly with some pliers where it passes thru the fork legs. 

Sorry again for all the confusion and delayed response!


----------



## dton13

Specialized_Joe said:


> Thanks for the reminder! I finally was able to track down the full scoop on them...I was getting conflicting info here as well.
> 
> The Plug and Play fenders are not technically compatible with the Roubaix Disc. However, the rear fits perfectly fine. The front fender rubs on the fork legs but can be made to fit with one of the following modifications. You could file off some material from the fender or bend the fender slightly with some pliers where it passes thru the fork legs.
> 
> Sorry again for all the confusion and delayed response!


Thanks for getting the confirmation on that!


----------



## George M

Hi Joe, I have a 2012 Roubaix and I was wondering when Specialized changed the size of the head tube for the larger bikes. Mine being a 2012, does it have the larger diameter in the head tube on the 61 cm. thanks.


----------



## dpar

Joe,

Maybe you can help me decide.

Looking at an Allez or Roubaix.

Currently riding a low end 2004 Allez Sport triple. I ride in the drops or on aerobars most of the time without comfort issues for 20-30 miles at a time.

I'm looking at a few options that will all cost about $2k.

1. Allez Tiagra with upgraded wheelset. Bike is $1350 so I should be able to get a great wheelset.

2. Allez 105 for $1700

3. Last year's closeout Roubaix for either tiagra/105 mix for $1650 or full 105 ellite for $1999

I did a quick parking lot ride on the closeout Roubaix's and they felt OK but not spectacular.

I guess a coupel of my concerns are not upgrading to carbon and the aggressive vs relaxed position. I've been riding aluminum for 10 years and don't really have any complaints. Also, I ride in the drops/bars without complaints as well. I'm 41 and will have this bike until I'm 50 or after so part of me says I'll want that relaxed posture soon.

I'm no racer. I can ride 25-30 miles of rolling hills at 19-21 solo with an overall avg of 17+ once hills and slow corners and whatnot factor in. I also will never race. I like 18-22 mph group rides and 50+ tour type rides.

thoughts?


----------



## roadryder

*Sl5*

Hi there,

I'm on the verge of buying the new sworks sl4, 2014 but is still holding the trigger as I'm afraid SL5 is due to be launched soon and I will be left with a new old frame.

any idea whether the new model is coming out this year? Would really love to hear from you.

thanks


----------



## Specialized_Joe

George M said:


> Hi Joe, I have a 2012 Roubaix and I was wondering when Specialized changed the size of the head tube for the larger bikes. Mine being a 2012, does it have the larger diameter in the head tube on the 61 cm. thanks.


Hey George!
Yes, your bike does have a tapered headtube. The lower bearing is 1 3/8" on all sizes of the 2012 Roubaix. The upper bearing is a standard 1 1/8".
When we introduced the Roubaix SL4 for 2013 the lower headset bearing size became frame size specific. The smallest sizes use 1 1/8", middle sizes use 1 1/4" and the largest frames use 1 3/8" lower bearings.


----------



## George M

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey George!
> Yes, your bike does have a tapered headtube. The lower bearing is 1 3/8" on all sizes of the 2012 Roubaix. The upper bearing is a standard 1 1/8".
> When we introduced the Roubaix SL4 for 2013 the lower headset bearing size became frame size specific. The smallest sizes use 1 1/8", middle sizes use 1 1/4" and the largest frames use 1 3/8" lower bearings.


Thanks Joe, if Specialized beefed up the larger bikes, would that be like a fact 10 in a smaller size? I have a 2012 Comp fact 8.


----------



## George M

George M said:


> Thanks Joe, if Specialized beefed up the larger bikes, would that be like a fact 10 in a smaller size? I have a 2012 Comp fact 8.


Rub that question out Joe, it was answered before, thanks anyhow.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

roadryder said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I'm on the verge of buying the new sworks sl4, 2014 but is still holding the trigger as I'm afraid SL5 is due to be launched soon and I will be left with a new old frame.
> 
> any idea whether the new model is coming out this year? Would really love to hear from you.
> 
> thanks


Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately I'm only able to discuss our current products on here...
Similar to electronics, there is always something new in the pipeline ready to take the current item's place. You might never buy anything if you're always waiting for the next big thing to come out .
That said, our 2015 bikes are usually all released by July at our global launch. Sorry I can't be of more help!


----------



## dkilburn

Thank You JOE, Well said.


Suggest if someone is going to buy, Buy the best you can afford.
Don't look back.

JOE, Thanks for your Help & Support.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dpar said:


> Joe,
> 
> Maybe you can help me decide.
> 
> Looking at an Allez or Roubaix.
> 
> Currently riding a low end 2004 Allez Sport triple. I ride in the drops or on aerobars most of the time without comfort issues for 20-30 miles at a time.
> 
> I'm looking at a few options that will all cost about $2k.
> 
> 1. Allez Tiagra with upgraded wheelset. Bike is $1350 so I should be able to get a great wheelset.
> 
> 2. Allez 105 for $1700
> 
> 3. Last year's closeout Roubaix for either tiagra/105 mix for $1650 or full 105 ellite for $1999
> 
> I did a quick parking lot ride on the closeout Roubaix's and they felt OK but not spectacular.
> 
> I guess a coupel of my concerns are not upgrading to carbon and the aggressive vs relaxed position. I've been riding aluminum for 10 years and don't really have any complaints. Also, I ride in the drops/bars without complaints as well. I'm 41 and will have this bike until I'm 50 or after so part of me says I'll want that relaxed posture soon.
> 
> I'm no racer. I can ride 25-30 miles of rolling hills at 19-21 solo with an overall avg of 17+ once hills and slow corners and whatnot factor in. I also will never race. I like 18-22 mph group rides and 50+ tour type rides.
> 
> thoughts?



Some tough decisions there! Here is my take...

The frame is the heart and soul of your bike and probably the least likely item you would upgrade. The wheels, tires, groupset, etc... are all things that wear out more quickly and riders like to upgrade over time. I'd do my best to get into a carbon frame (even if it means some lower end parts initially) and then upgrade other things over time. 

Do you ride on any rough roads or bad pavement for extended periods? I'd certainly recommend looking at the Rouaix in that case. 

Do you want razor sharp handling or something a bit more stable and predictable? 

In regards to parking lot test rides, I feel that tires and tire pressure make the biggest initial impressions. Its not until you ride under your normal conditions that you notice the real differences between bikes, even ones as different as the Allez and Roubaix.

Feel free to PM me if you need more advice or ask some other Roubaix and Allez owners what they think about their rides. There are plenty of those guys who frequent the Specialized section of the RBR forums. Good luck!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dkilburn said:


> Thank You JOE, Well said.
> 
> 
> Suggest if someone is going to buy, Buy the best you can afford.
> Don't look back.
> 
> JOE, Thanks for your Help & Support.


You bet! :thumbsup: And good advice yourself!


----------



## tyrich88

Hey Specialized_Joe,
I have an Allez smartweld, murder black frameset on order in a 52cm. It has been getting the date pushed back further and further. do you know when these may be shipping?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

tyrich88 said:


> Hey Specialized_Joe,
> I have an Allez smartweld, murder black frameset on order in a 52cm. It has been getting the date pushed back further and further. do you know when these may be shipping?


Hey there,
Your shop would be the best place to check, they can contact their rep and get the most up to date information. However, the basic inventory system I have access to says some of those should be available to ship on May 4th with the rest arriving later in May. I can't guarantee that info 100% though. Hopefully it arrives soon!


----------



## Rashadabd

I have to say, I do hate their (and some other manufacturers) frameset prices. Why give me a "bargain" on a binch of compenents I don't want. Why not just give me a decent price on the frameset and offer me some other kind of incentive to buy the components through you or your in-house brand, etc. I think Cervelo, Felt and Giant do a really nice job on frameset prices, but Trek, Specialized, and Cannondale kind of blow it.


----------



## stealle

I totally understand trying to get the best and newest. The thought of waiting crossed my mind. I would _guess_ (I repeat... total guess) that the SL5 frame will be announced in July. However, it will then take some time to get your hands on one. By the time you do all that waiting you'll miss out on riding your new bike during the prime 2014 riding season. And, you might do all that waiting and it not even be released until the 2016 model. 

I just got my 2014 Roubaix Comp about 3 weeks ago. I upgraded to a CG-R seatpost. I'm in love with this bike and having a blast! I can only imagine the 2014 S-Works SL-4 model is nothing short of sensational. Also, considering all the models SL4 and prior are good enough for the professionals to win on, I'm going to guess the SL4 will be good enough for you.


----------



## tyrich88

AWesome! Thanks! 
I hope it comes soon too! I'm excited to build it up!


----------



## brianb21

tyrich88 said:


> AWesome! Thanks!
> I hope it comes soon too! I'm excited to build it up!


Cant wait to see it make sure to post some pics!


----------



## tyrich88

Will do!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Rashadabd said:


> I have to say, I do hate their (and some other manufacturers) frameset prices. Why give me a "bargain" on a binch of compenents I don't want. Why not just give me a decent price on the frameset and offer me some other kind of incentive to buy the components through you or your in-house brand, etc. I think Cervelo, Felt and Giant do a really nice job on frameset prices, but Trek, Specialized, and Cannondale kind of blow it.


Thanks for your thoughts. I like that idea. Just to make sure we're on the same page, you would like a program like this: you buy a frameset, then have the option to also get a deal on cranks, bars, stem, post, saddle, wheels, etc... Is that correct?


----------



## Rashadabd

Specialized_Joe said:


> Thanks for your thoughts. I like that idea. Just to make sure we're on the same page, you would like a program like this: you buy a frameset, then have the option to also get a deal on cranks, bars, stem, post, saddle, wheels, etc... Is that correct?


Yes, I think it would be a great program and different from what other brands are doing. Giving people choice can be profitable man. Take a look at custom paint programs and how some cyclists love that stuff. I have no bias against Roval or other Specialized components, so if I get some kind of incentive or deal to go that route and a good deal on a frame, I think I and others would be in. By thinking outside the box a bit, you guys might make more money not less.


----------



## tyrich88

joe, I agree with this. I think that the options to build your own bike from the ground up are what a lot of riders want. I know when I have bought complete bikes in the past i only try to get something close to what I want, and if that's not available I have to settle. For example, the Allez I am waiting on right now, If I could buy a complete with Sram Force on it I would jump at that opportunity, but there is only an Expert with Ultegra. And also the Specialized Cranks being an option would be stellar! I want those on all of my bikes, and if that could be added to your bike before you buy it without having to spend $6k on a bike, HOLY COW would i take that offer!

I think only being able to choose drivetrain and then picking from Specialized and Roval components to piece it together would be great! Pick the frame you want (i.e.Tarmac 9r, 10r or 11r) and then piece together your components. 
Kind of like Trek's Project One, but catering to ALL riders. So a million times better!


----------



## David23

Is there a weight limit on the Toupe Pro saddle with carbon rails? Will that saddle fit the S-Works seat post?


----------



## wrz0170

tyrich88 said:


> AWesome! Thanks!
> I hope it comes soon too! I'm excited to build it up!


Your gonna love it. I had such a blast building it (my first). I pretty much call it the Rocket ship. It's scary fast.


----------



## Madone SIX

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> Your shop would be the best place to check, they can contact their rep and get the most up to date information. However, the basic inventory system I have access to says some of those should be available to ship on May 4th with the rest arriving later in May. I can't guarantee that info 100% though. Hopefully it arrives soon!


What does it show for the 54cm Murder Black Allez Frameset?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

David23 said:


> Is there a weight limit on the Toupe Pro saddle with carbon rails? Will that saddle fit the S-Works seat post?.


There is a 240 lb. weight limit on that saddle (and all of our carbon railed saddles). You can find the complete manual for that guy here.
That saddle will fit just fine on the S-Works SL Carbon 2-bolt post just fine. If you plan to use it on the S-Works SL Pave seatpost you will need to make sure and use the 7x9mm clamps for carbon rails. Thanks for checking!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Madone SIX said:


> What does it show for the 54cm Murder Black Allez Frameset?


Are you in the USA? If so, then there appears to be a small quantity coming into stock right now. If you have one on order it should ship soon. If not, I'd try and order it ASAP!


----------



## tyrich88

Joe you think that frame/custom build up concept could take off? That would be a phenomenal idea in my opinion. Not sure how the $ figures look on the business side though.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

tyrich88 said:


> Joe you think that frame/custom build up concept could take off? That would be a phenomenal idea in my opinion. Not sure how the $ figures look on the business side though.


Its certainly a good idea. Figuring out all the logistics and business side of it would be the tricky part!


----------



## tyrich88

It shouldnt be that bad once you get a pricing set for each group. There are smaller companies than Specialized doing it and still making money off of it, like Santa Cruz. 
I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to make money off of at all... May actually increase sales!


----------



## s4gobabygo

i guess this kind of comes back to the packaging of parts questions above, but will the tarmac disc be available as a frame only for those who don't need the $2000 worth of wheels that come with it? 

also, has the tire clearance been increased along with the move to disc?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

s4gobabygo said:


> i guess this kind of comes back to the packaging of parts questions above, but will the tarmac disc be available as a frame only for those who don't need the $2000 worth of wheels that come with it?
> 
> also, has the tire clearance been increased along with the move to disc?


Good question...
For now, we are only offer the Tarmac Disc in 'Module' format with the wheels. The Roubaix disc will also only be offered in module form next year as well. 

With road disc, most all 135mm disc hubs positions the cassette 2.5mm further outboard than a traditionally spaced 130mm wheel. This negatively affects the chainline and also results in the chain catching on the pickup ramps of the large ring while in the small ring and smaller cogs out back. 

The wheels that come with the module have a special rear hub that moves the cassette inboard 2.5mm back to the same location as a traditionally spaced 130mm hub. This allows you to use all gears and achieve the best possible shifting. 

Previously, on the Roubiax Disc, we used a special offset Sram crank with wider chainline and q-factor to correct this. Hopefully that all makes sense. I'm sure if you don't need/want the included wheels there are others out there that wouldn't mind taking them off your hands. 

The Tarmac Disc does not have increased tire clearance over the rim version. However, they do both have improved tire clearance over the Tarmac SL4. 

Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!


----------



## s4gobabygo

thanks a lot joe!


----------



## LouisVuitton

Hi Joe,

If we want to fit our own Zipp 303 disc wheels on this Tarmac Disc module frameset, do we need to buy a special hub or any special spacers to perform this 2.5mm adjustment? Or the way the current design is now, are the Roval wheels the only wheels that are currently compatible with this frameset? 

Also, is it difficult to change out the included bottom bracket with an aftermarket Praxis BB (to fit a matching Shimano crank and not have to settle for a cheap FSA crank)?



Specialized_Joe said:


> Good question...
> For now, we are only offer the Tarmac Disc in 'Module' format with the wheels. The Roubaix disc will also only be offered in module form next year as well.
> 
> With road disc, most all 135mm disc hubs positions the cassette 2.5mm further outboard than a traditionally spaced 130mm wheel. This negatively affects the chainline and also results in the chain catching on the pickup ramps of the large ring while in the small ring and smaller cogs out back.
> 
> The wheels that come with the module have a special rear hub that moves the cassette inboard 2.5mm back to the same location as a traditionally spaced 130mm hub. This allows you to use all gears and achieve the best possible shifting.
> 
> Previously, on the Roubiax Disc, we used a special offset Sram crank with wider chainline and q-factor to correct this. Hopefully that all makes sense. I'm sure if you don't need/want the included wheels there are others out there that wouldn't mind taking them off your hands.
> 
> The Tarmac Disc does not have increased tire clearance over the rim version. However, they do both have improved tire clearance over the Tarmac SL4.
> 
> Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!


----------



## Rashadabd

Specialized_Joe said:


> Good question...
> For now, we are only offer the Tarmac Disc in 'Module' format with the wheels. The Roubaix disc will also only be offered in module form next year as well.
> 
> With road disc, most all 135mm disc hubs positions the cassette 2.5mm further outboard than a traditionally spaced 130mm wheel. This negatively affects the chainline and also results in the chain catching on the pickup ramps of the large ring while in the small ring and smaller cogs out back.
> 
> The wheels that come with the module have a special rear hub that moves the cassette inboard 2.5mm back to the same location as a traditionally spaced 130mm hub. This allows you to use all gears and achieve the best possible shifting.
> 
> Previously, on the Roubiax Disc, we used a special offset Sram crank with wider chainline and q-factor to correct this. Hopefully that all makes sense. I'm sure if you don't need/want the included wheels there are others out there that wouldn't mind taking them off your hands.
> 
> The Tarmac Disc does not have increased tire clearance over the rim version. However, they do both have improved tire clearance over the Tarmac SL4.
> 
> Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!


Here's how Coloradocyclist sets their customization up. I think there's a ton of ways to tweak this and innovate, but this is solid foundation for how it could be set up. I like the idea of something that goes beyond Trek's Project One, something that provides a frameset at a reasonable price and then frees the consumer to build the best bike they can afford. You build in incentives to use Specialized products for the build and watch the money roll in. People will flock to this thing if it's built.

Devinci LEO SL-Sram Force 22

Devinci LEO SL Frame


----------



## s4gobabygo

joe please don't do this. if you guys start letting me spec my own complete bikes, i'll be bankrupted immediately. don't enable me.


----------



## Rashadabd

s4gobabygo said:


> joe please don't do this. if you guys start letting me spec my own complete bikes, i'll be bankrupted immediately. don't enable me.


Lol… That, my friend, is a rider first revolution. It frees us up to do the very thing we all end up doing anyway, customizing our bikes to suit our needs, but instead of giving some shop or guy off ebay the extra money we invest and complaining about Specialized's stock builds along the way, we get to partner with them in building the actual bike we want, the bike we'll love. Specialized doesn't lose money because the frame and the components are all marked up so that your profit is built in, but you don't have to sell someone on $3000 for a frameset and/or you can offer some fact 9r carbon and 8r carbon framesets (only through the customizing program of course), because you make extra $$$$ off them when you do. People are happy, you have some new revenue streams, it's a win-win.


----------



## tyrich88

Amen to that! I think everybody that may buy other things because of build choice or pricing for the bike with certain component groups... They would jump at this idea! Because like I said, Treks project one is not for everyone, it's only for some fairly expensive, elite builds. This would allow everyone at a wider range of price points to ride the Tarmac, venge, epic, stumpjumper, etc. of their dreams and not have to buy two sets of components to do it!


----------



## 1Butcher

Joe, please do not this. If you guys do, you'll go bankrupt do to the logistics nightmare. I cannot imagine the amount of warranty issues you'll have because all the abnormal components that will not work together properly.

Stick with what you do best. Make a good bike, let us choose which one.


----------



## Soonerinfrisco

Hi Joe,

Bit of a newbie here compared to the other guys on this thread. BTW, love reading the banter you guys have going, learned a lot. Let me 2nd the full group set idea. Bad taste from FSA cranks from my 06 Tarmac. Went through 3 BBs. DA components however solid as a rock and like new still. And seriously how much more are 105 or Ultegra brakes vs Axis or whatever they are called? And love the idea of a price with wheel set and price without wheel set on new bikes.

My question, and it is really basic, I am a big guy 6'2" x lets say 240 lbs (carbon warranty limit) at least I was at some point in jr high. I have two girls, so I have to be able to justify the spending on my bike toys. I am getting older and have a congenital narrow spinal column. As I am aging, I am having neck and shoulder pains on my Tarmac. Decided that I need to trade in for a more upright ride. And yes I have a hideously upturned stem already and run 28s. Have rode most of the plush type bikes and clearly favor the Roubaix (though I would argue that the Felt Z4 is a better bargain vs the Sport model, but not nearly as plush). I really want the Expert but my wallet says the Sport. I never change components, not a great bike mechanic. I can live with 105 vs Ultegra, I will use my custom CXP/Ult wheel set, but what is the diff in FACT 8 vs 10 that are relevant to me? The Sport weighs right at 20 lbs and the Expert a bit over 17.5 according to the scale hanging at my LBS. Stock 58s.

thanks, Jeff


----------



## Specialized_Joe

LouisVuitton said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> If we want to fit our own Zipp 303 disc wheels on this Tarmac Disc module frameset, do we need to buy a special hub or any special spacers to perform this 2.5mm adjustment? Or the way the current design is now, are the Roval wheels the only wheels that are currently compatible with this frameset?
> 
> Also, is it difficult to change out the included bottom bracket with an aftermarket Praxis BB (to fit a matching Shimano crank and not have to settle for a cheap FSA crank)?


Good questions,

Any 135mm road disc wheel should 'fit' the Tarmac Disc, including the Zipp 303. However, the chainline is not as good and you probably won't be able to use some gears in the small chainring.
I'm not aware of any other hubs that have the 2.5mm chainline adjustment built in or any way to adjust them over.
The Tarmac Disc comes with 2 different derailleur hangers to position the rear derailleur properly depending on the wheels you use. The first one is used with our new wheels that have the SCS (short chainstay) hub. The other hanger is for "regular" disc wheels like the Zipps.

Yes, the Praxis Conversion BB fits on the Tarmac. You just need to push out the stock bearings and clips first. The Praxis BB goes in easy after that!


----------



## David23

Joe, Will the Toupe Pro with Carbon rails, fit the Venge seat post with its side clamp mechanism?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

David23 said:


> Joe, Will the Toupe Pro with Carbon rails, fit the Venge seat post with its side clamp mechanism?



Yes! As long as the post is fitted with the correct clamp. We make separate clamps for round 7x7mm rails and the carbon 7x9mm railed saddles. 

If you currently have that post and a metal railed saddle then you should be able order the carbon railed clamp from any Specialized dealer. The part # is 2812-9050.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Soonerinfrisco said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> Bit of a newbie here compared to the other guys on this thread. BTW, love reading the banter you guys have going, learned a lot. Let me 2nd the full group set idea. Bad taste from FSA cranks from my 06 Tarmac. Went through 3 BBs. DA components however solid as a rock and like new still. And seriously how much more are 105 or Ultegra brakes vs Axis or whatever they are called? And love the idea of a price with wheel set and price without wheel set on new bikes.
> 
> My question, and it is really basic, I am a big guy 6'2" x lets say 240 lbs (carbon warranty limit) at least I was at some point in jr high. I have two girls, so I have to be able to justify the spending on my bike toys. I am getting older and have a congenital narrow spinal column. As I am aging, I am having neck and shoulder pains on my Tarmac. Decided that I need to trade in for a more upright ride. And yes I have a hideously upturned stem already and run 28s. Have rode most of the plush type bikes and clearly favor the Roubaix (though I would argue that the Felt Z4 is a better bargain vs the Sport model, but not nearly as plush). I really want the Expert but my wallet says the Sport. I never change components, not a great bike mechanic. I can live with 105 vs Ultegra, I will use my custom CXP/Ult wheel set, but what is the diff in FACT 8 vs 10 that are relevant to me? The Sport weighs right at 20 lbs and the Expert a bit over 17.5 according to the scale hanging at my LBS. Stock 58s.
> 
> thanks, Jeff


Hey Jeff,

Your feedback is noted, thanks! 

I think you're on the right track moving to the Roubaix both for fit and for ride quality. Is there any reason you're deliberating between only the Sport and Expert models? There are also the Elite and Comp models in between those two that might be a good option as well.

To answer your question, the 10r carbon uses higher modulus carbon fiber that allows us to use less material and achieve the same stiffness than a bike with the 8r carbon. There is a ride quality improvement between the two but whether its noticeable is dependent on the rider. Also, the 2.5 lb weight difference between those two bikes is mainly due to the components and not the frameset. Hope that helps!


----------



## squareslinky

Regarding the new Tarmac. I ride a 61cm, lots of seat post showing, but not at min insertion line. The new Tarmac eliminates some of the extra room for the minimum insertion line. 
Did you guys account for this with a longer post or am I just out of luck with the new design? That would really suck since the big frames and the small ones are the ones that benefit from the new design.


----------



## Soonerinfrisco

Thanks Joe.

I personally couldn't see the value with the two models in between for me anyway. I am happy with 105. I have 105 on my steel ride and believe it is fine for me. It's not my DA but neither is the Ultegra, even with my DA being the 06 version. I will switch the wheels on any of Roubaixs. I broke a spoke on my first century on the K Elites that my Tarmac came with but have never had an issue with my CXP33/Ultegra 32/36 build. So it really ends up being Ult vs Ult mix vs 105 mix and carbon crank vs al. In DFW that translates to about $2000 vs $2400 vs $2700. Without looking, I think the bars, stem and seatpost are all the same, but maybe not.

Have rode the Expert and its amazing. Have not rode the other 3 because my LBS didn't have them. However they have a sister store a short distance away and I will go ride a 58 sport tomorrow. So I will see if there is $1600 worth difference!

It kills me to trade in my Tarmac Pro 06, the ride is so nice just can't get the strain off my neck. Not surprised that my exact model is Bicycling's top rated bike of the decade!


----------



## thumper8888

*Specialized website down....*

Joe, 
what's up with that? I understand they need periodic updates, but to take it down for more than three days, that's a LOT of time.
What's up that takes so much work?
thanks much


----------



## s4gobabygo

another non-sequitur, probably my own special interest group, but is there any chance of specialized using one of the shoe colors OTHER than black for wide/narrow sizes? i have wide feet, and adore specialized shoes, but i'm getting sick of only seeing black shoes in my size year after year. maybe mix it up a bit every once in a while for the wide/narrow crowd?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

squareslinky said:


> Regarding the new Tarmac. I ride a 61cm, lots of seat post showing, but not at min insertion line. The new Tarmac eliminates some of the extra room for the minimum insertion line.
> Did you guys account for this with a longer post or am I just out of luck with the new design? That would really suck since the big frames and the small ones are the ones that benefit from the new design.


Yep, this is accounted for! The new Tarmac ships with a 50mm longer seatpost than the SL4 (400mm on larger sizes and 350mm on the smaller sizes). The seat tube on the new Tarmac is about 30mm shorter than the SL4 so it should be no problem.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

thumper8888 said:


> Joe,
> what's up with that? I understand they need periodic updates, but to take it down for more than three days, that's a LOT of time.
> What's up that takes so much work?
> thanks much


Ya, it sucks. I don't understand much about IT but I guess we are doing a big server migration that is taking more time than normal maintenance ordinarily would. Sorry about the inconvenience!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

s4gobabygo said:


> another non-sequitur, probably my own special interest group, but is there any chance of specialized using one of the shoe colors OTHER than black for wide/narrow sizes? i have wide feet, and adore specialized shoes, but i'm getting sick of only seeing black shoes in my size year after year. maybe mix it up a bit every once in a while for the wide/narrow crowd?


I understand, a little color to spice things up is always nice! I'll pass your feedback on to the shoe guys, thanks!


----------



## thumper8888

*Evade helmet*

This might seem a little picky, but the shape of the helmet leads me to believe that there could be huge differences in its aerodynamic properties at different angles for your head as you ride.
Seems like too much chin down could even make it less aero than a standard helmet.
Do your tech guys have any tips/thoughts on getting it right? Meaning, can they give some sense of the head position, in layman's terms, for which it was designed?
Thanks much


----------



## Specialized_Joe

thumper8888 said:


> This might seem a little picky, but the shape of the helmet leads me to believe that there could be huge differences in its aerodynamic properties at different angles for your head as you ride.
> Seems like too much chin down could even make it less aero than a standard helmet.
> Do your tech guys have any tips/thoughts on getting it right? Meaning, can they give some sense of the head position, in layman's terms, for which it was designed?
> Thanks much


Great question,

We definitely studied this sort of thing while developing the helmet. It is designed for riders in a fairly "agressive" position. The photos below give an idea of the angles where the airflow wouldn't be kicked up from the tail of the helmet.

















However, when a rider put his head down (i.e. Chris Froome Looking at Stems) he’s usually closing off airflow that would hit the chest. This is often (not always) more aero than a head up position as the rider has reduced his frontal area.

Hope that helps!


----------



## thumper8888

Specialized_Joe said:


> Great question,
> 
> W
> 
> However, when a rider put his head down (i.e. Chris Froome Looking at Stems) he’s usually closing off airflow that would hit the chest. This is often (not always) more aero than a head up position as the rider has reduced his frontal area.
> 
> Hope that helps!


Those shots of Froome looking at his stem are funny as crap. No doubt you guys were passing that link around the office for a hoot.
Thanks for the info on the head angle, will test it out in the AM.


----------



## spokewrench

Hi Joe,

I was curious to know if you guys were going to make any other colours available for the S-Works Tarmac frame up here in Canada? I spoke with my dealer and the only option for the frame set showing is the black on black. 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## dealraker

My wife and I own 8 Specialized bikes. I have been happy, even delighted, with most all of them but for two things: My 2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert EL wheelset which basically thrown in the trash because of so many problems. And then my 2009 Specialized Epic brain repeated failure. I thought both should have been warranty covered but that wasn't the case. Specialized would have come out ahead if they would have warrantied those issues because I would have bought far more expensive bikes than the ones I have today as I have methodically upgraded. But having to shell out thousands of dollars to other vendors to solve the problem was bad for both Specialized and my wife and I.


----------



## LVbob

dealraker said:


> My wife and I own 8 Specialized bikes. I have been happy, even delighted, with most all of them but for two things: My 2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert EL wheelset which basically thrown in the trash because of so many problems. And then my 2009 Specialized Epic brain repeated failure. I thought both should have been warranty covered but that wasn't the case. Specialized would have come out ahead if they would have warrantied those issues because I would have bought far more expensive bikes than the ones I have today as I have methodically upgraded. But having to shell out thousands of dollars to other vendors to solve the problem was bad for both Specialized and my wife and I.


It seems like wheels are the bane of all bikes except for the very top-end offerings in order for the manufacturer to save money. I just recently purchased a Roubaix Expert which has the Fulcrum S4 wheels. I love the bike and the back wheel is fine but the front wheel has an annoying thud at every revolution while braking which is apparently due to a poorly finished weld on the rim. I think it's embarrassing that Specialized would use such a poor product on a $3800 bike.


----------



## dealraker

LVbob said:


> It seems like wheels are the bane of all bikes except for the very top-end offerings in order for the manufacturer to save money. I just recently purchased a Roubaix Expert which has the Fulcrum S4 wheels. I love the bike and the back wheel is fine but the front wheel has an annoying thud at every revolution while braking which is apparently due to a poorly finished weld on the rim. I think it's embarrassing that Specialized would use such a poor product on a $3800 bike.


I was riding with a friend who had bought an old stock close out - the same 2010 Roubaix I have - and I kidded him being completely silly and not serious by saying, "There's not a snowball's chance in hell you'll finish this ride on those wheels."

Even with my experience with the EL Fusee wheelset- I was shocked that his front wheel broke not one but TWO spokes on the first 55 mile ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Zampano

Specialized_Joe said:


> Yes, the Praxis Conversion BB fits on the Tarmac. You just need to push out the stock bearings and clips first. The Praxis BB goes in easy after that!




That said I sure would like better availability of framesets.

It would be wasteful to buy a full S-Works bike only to automatically replace the wheels, crank, and contact points.


----------



## tyrich88

Joe: 
I am currently running a bb30 crank on my allez smartweld framset. But the press in adapters that come with the frame and BB, are those for shimano conversion? That would be great if they were...


----------



## Dunbar

tyrich88 said:


> But the press in adapters that come with the frame and BB, are those for shimano conversion? That would be great if they were...


If they look like the picture below then yes they are for Shimano cranks. I went through two sets in 5k miles due to creaking. I would recommend using something like this:

Wheels Mfg BB30 to Outboard Bottom Bracket for 24mm Cranks (Shimano)

CONV BB FOR SHIMANO - Praxis Cycles


----------



## tyrich88

Dunbar said:


> If they look like the picture below then yes they are for Shimano cranks. I went through two sets in 5k miles due to creaking. I would recommend using something like this:
> 
> Wheels Mfg BB30 to Outboard Bottom Bracket for 24mm Cranks (Shimano)
> 
> CONV BB FOR SHIMANO - Praxis Cycles


AWESOME.
Those are the adapters I am referring to! I am looking to convert over to a full ultegra drivetrain and wanted to know if I was going to need a new bottom bracket. I will probably get one, but these will work for now!
Thanks a ton!


----------



## darwinosx

LVbob said:


> It seems like wheels are the bane of all bikes except for the very top-end offerings in order for the manufacturer to save money. I just recently purchased a Roubaix Expert which has the Fulcrum S4 wheels. I love the bike and the back wheel is fine but the front wheel has an annoying thud at every revolution while braking which is apparently due to a poorly finished weld on the rim. I think it's embarrassing that Specialized would use such a poor product on a $3800 bike.


Completely agree and had the same issue with my Fulcrum wheels. Specialized cheaped out on these wheels on a $3800 bike. They could have done much better. I replaced them with wheels built with Ultegra hubs and HED rims. I don't like the FSA crank either and am replacing it with a Praxis BB and Ultegra crank.


----------



## LVbob

darwinosx said:


> Completely agree and had the same issue with my Fulcrum wheels. Specialized cheaped out on these wheels on a $3800 bike. They could have done much better. I replaced them with wheels built with Ultegra hubs and HED rims. I don't like the FSA crank either and am replacing it with a Praxis BB and Ultegra crank.


I plan on getting new wheels soon - just not sure what direction I am going to go. 

I also am considering replacing the crank as I think I'd like a full groupset.


----------



## darwinosx

LVbob said:


> I plan on getting new wheels soon - just not sure what direction I am going to go.
> 
> I also am considering replacing the crank as I think I'd like a full groupset.


My favorite rims at the moment are HED C2 and Pacenti SL 23. Wide, stable, high quality. Ultegra hubs are excellent and can be found inexpensively online. 

This is a great rim guide from freewheel bikes in Tucson who I have done a fair amount of business with and they are excellent.

2013 Rim Roundup - Fair Wheel Bikes

This is their hub guide
2014 Road Hub Review - Fair Wheel Bikes

These are nice wheels they build and ship although they can do custom wheels.
Wheelsets : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique
Not as many local shops do custom wheels these days because they lack the skill and because so many people buy pre-made wheels.

I bought the Praxis bottom bracket replacement for Specialized.
Praxis Conversion BB : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

The crank I got from Eurobikes for $184.95 which is a pretty good price. Really good actually since retail is $299

EuroBikeParts, LLC

I may go to Di2 after this but mechanical Ultegra 6800 is so good I'm not sure I feel the need.

Another wheel I would consider is Shimano's Ultegra wheel and great prices can be had on it if you look around. I'm a big guy so wanted 32 spoke etc.


----------



## Rashadabd

darwinosx said:


> My favorite rims at the moment are HED C2 and Pacenti SL 23. Wide, stable, high quality. Ultegra hubs are excellent and can be found inexpensively online.
> 
> This is a great rim guide from freewheel bikes in Tucson who I have done a fair amount of business with and they are excellent.
> 
> 2013 Rim Roundup - Fair Wheel Bikes
> 
> This is their hub guide
> 2014 Road Hub Review - Fair Wheel Bikes
> 
> These are nice wheels they build and ship although they can do custom wheels.
> Wheelsets : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique
> Not as many local shops do custom wheels these days because they lack the skill and because so many people buy pre-made wheels.
> 
> I bought the Praxis bottom bracket replacement for Specialized.
> Praxis Conversion BB : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique
> 
> The crank I got from Eurobikes for $184.95 which is a pretty good price. Really good actually since retail is $299
> 
> EuroBikeParts, LLC
> 
> I may go to Di2 after this but mechanical Ultegra 6800 is so good I'm not sure I feel the need.
> 
> Another wheel I would consider is Shimano's Ultegra wheel and great prices can be had on it if you look around. I'm a big guy so wanted 32 spoke etc.


This is good stuff, thanks for sharing. I was intrigued by the possibility of building a set up H Plus Son Archetype wheels a year or so ago, but completely forgot about them. This made me think about looking at them again. :thumbsup:


----------



## scottma

Joe, could you/Specialized help this guy out?
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/ge...eft-hand-2015-s-works-tarmac-disc-324163.html


----------



## OldChipper

Here's a couple of questions for you Joe... Why is the set-back so extreme on the CG-R post and why don't you offer the S-Works stem as an aftermarket item? 

I have relatively long femurs yet I still can't get my saddle forward enough on a CG-R post to get my knees over the pedal spindles (and I understand from my LBS that I'm far from alone in that).

Also, the S-Works stem on the S-Works Roubaix is way cool, but guessing that more than half the cyclists who buy a S-Works Roubaix have to switch it out. My LBS is a pretty major Spesh dealer yet they don't have a stock of alternate length stems and claim they can't get them as an aftermarket item. Is this them or you? 

Between these two, I have several hundred dollars in paper weights right out of the box. Not cool on an $8K bike.


----------



## Rashadabd

Hi Joe, 

Any idea when the information for the Expert and Pro Race levels of the 2015 Tarmac will be updated on Specialized's website? This article has provided some of the details, but I would love to see the actual bikes and prices, thanks. 

Gallery: Specialized Tarmac Disc and new rim-brake Tarmac released | Cyclingnews.com


----------



## thumper8888

Joe,
on your clear matte finish, as on the black venge and sl4, any thoughts on touchup for areas that eventually get rubbed smooth or get a faint scratch that is clearly just in the matte?
thinking about buffing these areas a little with 600 grit or so bronze wool, wiping them down with a gentle cleaner and feathering on some clear matte lacquer from a spray can... understanding that I probably will have to renew it sooner than the stuff you have on, which is really tough and wears well.
I have some pretty good two-part clear linear polyurethane with UV block in it, but I hate get out the gun, compressor and forced air respirator and two unseal a full quart of it for just a couple grams of shooting.... thats why Im looking at a decent quality lacquer, probably something from a hobby shop.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

spokewrench said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> I was curious to know if you guys were going to make any other colours available for the S-Works Tarmac frame up here in Canada? I spoke with my dealer and the only option for the frame set showing is the black on black.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Hey there,

Sorry it took me a while to reply...
Unfortunately, it looks like we probably aren't going to have any other colorways available in Canada right now. Out of curiosity, what color were you hoping for?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

dealraker said:


> My wife and I own 8 Specialized bikes. I have been happy, even delighted, with most all of them but for two things: My 2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert EL wheelset which basically thrown in the trash because of so many problems. And then my 2009 Specialized Epic brain repeated failure. I thought both should have been warranty covered but that wasn't the case. Specialized would have come out ahead if they would have warrantied those issues because I would have bought far more expensive bikes than the ones I have today as I have methodically upgraded. But having to shell out thousands of dollars to other vendors to solve the problem was bad for both Specialized and my wife and I.


I'm really sorry to hear that those products have let you down in the past and that our customer service/warranty wasn't up to your expectations.

We are continually improving all aspects of our bikes, hopefully these sorts of things won't happen to you again. Feedback like yours is critical to that improvement. Feel free to let me know if you have more issues in the future, I'll do what I can to help!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

tyrich88 said:


> Joe:
> I am currently running a bb30 crank on my allez smartweld framset. But the press in adapters that come with the frame and BB, are those for shimano conversion? That would be great if they were...



Sorry it took me a while to reply on here..._Dunbar _is right on the money! 

The adapters that came with your frame should definitely work although I have heard that some riders do develop creaking over time. 

I have used the Wheels Mfg. adapters on my Tarmac for over a year without any creaking issues to speak of. The new Praxis Conversion BBs are really nice though, that would probably be my first choice right now.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

scottma said:


> Joe, could you/Specialized help this guy out?
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/ge...eft-hand-2015-s-works-tarmac-disc-324163.html


Thanks for the heads up on this! I'll look into it for sure!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Rashadabd said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> Any idea when the information for the Expert and Pro Race levels of the 2015 Tarmac will be updated on Specialized's website? This article has provided some of the details, but I would love to see the actual bikes and prices, thanks.
> 
> Gallery: Specialized Tarmac Disc and new rim-brake Tarmac released | Cyclingnews.com


Hey there,

It looks the full specs and pricing for the other Tarmacs will be available in the second week of July. The rest of our 2015 line of bikes will be announced at that time as well. Our website may not publish that info for a week or so after that but I'm sure the full info will trickle onto the forums and various websites right away. Stay tuned!


----------



## Rashadabd

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> It looks the full specs and pricing for the other Tarmacs will be available in the second week of July. The rest of our 2015 line of bikes will be announced at that time as well. Our website may not publish that info for a week or so after that but I'm sure the full info will trickle onto the forums and various websites right away. Stay tuned!


Thanks Joe!


----------



## OldChipper

OldChipper said:


> Here's a couple of questions for you Joe... Why is the set-back so extreme on the CG-R post and why don't you offer the S-Works stem as an aftermarket item?
> 
> I have relatively long femurs yet I still can't get my saddle forward enough on a CG-R post to get my knees over the pedal spindles (and I understand from my LBS that I'm far from alone in that).
> 
> Also, the S-Works stem on the S-Works Roubaix is way cool, but guessing that more than half the cyclists who buy a S-Works Roubaix have to switch it out. My LBS is a pretty major Spesh dealer yet they don't have a stock of alternate length stems and claim they can't get them as an aftermarket item. Is this them or you?
> 
> Between these two, I have several hundred dollars in paper weights right out of the box. Not cool on an $8K bike.


Hello?


----------



## spokewrench

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> Sorry it took me a while to reply...
> Unfortunately, it looks like we probably aren't going to have any other colorways available in Canada right now. Out of curiosity, what color were you hoping for?


Hi Joe,

I was hoping for the Gloss White/Satin Carbon/Black/Red colour scheme.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

OldChipper said:


> Here's a couple of questions for you Joe... Why is the set-back so extreme on the CG-R post and why don't you offer the S-Works stem as an aftermarket item?
> 
> I have relatively long femurs yet I still can't get my saddle forward enough on a CG-R post to get my knees over the pedal spindles (and I understand from my LBS that I'm far from alone in that).
> 
> Also, the S-Works stem on the S-Works Roubaix is way cool, but guessing that more than half the cyclists who buy a S-Works Roubaix have to switch it out. My LBS is a pretty major Spesh dealer yet they don't have a stock of alternate length stems and claim they can't get them as an aftermarket item. Is this them or you?
> 
> Between these two, I have several hundred dollars in paper weights right out of the box. Not cool on an $8K bike.


Hey there,

My apologies for the delayed response...

Yes, you are not alone in terms of fit on the CG-R seatpost. It has a 25mm setback which is actually fairly common for a setback road post. Is there any way you can sell the post to recoup some of your $ or work out a swap with your local shop? 

Regarding that S-Works stem, we do sell it aftermark in two colorways. Unfortunately, the blacked out color is only available on the complete bike. If your fit allows you to use a 6* stem, I'd recommend getting the new S-Works SL stem. Its a lighter, more simple option if you don't need the more drastic angles that the stock stem allows for. 

I understand your frustration in having to swap parts out of the box. We do our best to spec the crank arm length, seatpost, saddle, stem, and bar size for each size bike. As you might guess, its tough to get it right for everybody. Hopefully that explanation helps a bit. Feel free to PM me if you need anything else!


----------



## OldChipper

Thanks for responding Joe. 

The issue with the seatpost was actually to do with the Spesh saddle as it turns out. I got the alloy rail clamp for the CGR post from my dealer and was able to install my "regular" saddle (Selle Italia Flite) which then allowed a more forward adjustment. So, although it doesn't appear that way, the issue seems to have been the length of the Spesh carbon rails. 

Regarding the stem, I ended up buying/using the model that's on my other bikes which has similar blacked-out graphics to the S-Works SL that you recommended. I really wish I could get a longer "Pro" stem (as I guess the stock stem on the S-Works Roubaix is actually called) with the all-black graphics, however, as I very much like the look and functionality of the little carbon clip on the front. 

More generally, it's unfortunate that although Specialized emphasizes the importance of fit by, among other things, developing their own fitting system, they don't make it easier/more affordable for dealers and owners to attain the proper fit without additional investment. Swapping out a brand new stem for an equivalent one of proper length should be zero cost to the dealer and consumer if Specialized is really concerned about their customers getting a good fit and enjoying their bike. Maybe this is just a quirk of my local Specialized retailer, but any changes are an additional cost at retail prices.


----------



## NealH

Maybe things have changed since I purchased my S-Works Tarmac 4 years ago but, my dealer did swap out my stem.


----------



## LVbob

My dealer swapped out both the stem and the saddle on my Roubaix at no cost to me just over a month ago.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

OldChipper said:


> Thanks for responding Joe.
> 
> The issue with the seatpost was actually to do with the Spesh saddle as it turns out. I got the alloy rail clamp for the CGR post from my dealer and was able to install my "regular" saddle (Selle Italia Flite) which then allowed a more forward adjustment. So, although it doesn't appear that way, the issue seems to have been the length of the Spesh carbon rails.
> 
> Regarding the stem, I ended up buying/using the model that's on my other bikes which has similar blacked-out graphics to the S-Works SL that you recommended. I really wish I could get a longer "Pro" stem (as I guess the stock stem on the S-Works Roubaix is actually called) with the all-black graphics, however, as I very much like the look and functionality of the little carbon clip on the front.
> 
> More generally, it's unfortunate that although Specialized emphasizes the importance of fit by, among other things, developing their own fitting system, they don't make it easier/more affordable for dealers and owners to attain the proper fit without additional investment. Swapping out a brand new stem for an equivalent one of proper length should be zero cost to the dealer and consumer if Specialized is really concerned about their customers getting a good fit and enjoying their bike. Maybe this is just a quirk of my local Specialized retailer, but any changes are an additional cost at retail prices.


Great point about the carbon railed saddle! I should have asked about that in my response. As you noticed, our (and I think some other manufacturers) carbon railed saddles have less fore/aft adjustment making the correct post setback more crucial. 

You bring up other good points about fitting and parts swap stuff as well. As a few others mentioned, some retailers are more flexible about swapping parts on new bikes or with fits than others. Thanks again for your feedback.


----------



## awfpack

Hi, I got a 2014 Roubaix SL4 expert this past fall. I have read this tread but I do not have a great deal of knowledge on bike problems and fixes. I have taken my bike in at least 6 times in the last 7 months and every time they say cable stretch. I went to a different shop and they looked at it and said that the cables were crossed in the frame and had to replace the front derailleur cable. While they were checking my bike over they said that my rear axle looks to be slightly to long. The shop I got the bike from said that it is not uncommon to have to come in 8-10 times in the first year for cable stretch. Any advice would be great.


----------



## thumper8888

awfpack said:


> Hi, I got a 2014 Roubaix SL4 expert this past fall. I have read this tread but I do not have a great deal of knowledge on bike problems and fixes. I have had to take my bike in at least 6 times in the last 7 months and every time they say cable stretch. I went to a different shop and they looked at it and said that the cables were crossed in the frame and had to replace the front derailleur cable. While they were checking my bike over they said that my rear axle looks to be slightly to long. They shop I got the bike from said that it is not uncommon to have to come in 8-10 times in the first year for cable stretch. Any advice would be great.


You need to visit another shop. Cable stretch is a one-time adjustment, almost always... set up a new cable, tension it, leave it overnight, come back and adjust the next day and youre done.
it would also take a pretty big set of cable crosses to need replacement that quickly.
Are you by any chance running shimano 7900 stuff?


----------



## roadworthy

thumper8888 said:


> You need to visit another shop. Cable stretch is a one-time adjustment, almost always... set up a new cable, tension it, leave it overnight, come back and adjust the next day and youre done.
> it would also take a pretty big set of cable crosses to need replacement that quickly.
> Are you by any chance running shimano 7900 stuff?


In addition to what thumper wrote, the inner cables are 'supposed' to cross inside the downtube of the bike. Do a forum search on California Cross....I have written a fair amount about cable routing on these bikes.
Good luck.


----------



## awfpack

Thanks for the rely, I have all Ultegra. I have SG-X 50-F. Any ideas about the shifting problem. The shop I got it at said that is normal for Shimano and I need to hold the shift for a count of "one one thousand" Do other bike brands use the California Cross? Is it normal for a bike to had a axel to long? They were talking about shaving it down. They also said that the rear dropout look very small on the left side. Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## SkiRacer55

I've heard you're not supposed to cross cables...but I'm no expert, and so I'd trust what roadworthy has to say. The Big Fix for me was that the original install had insufficient cable housing on the back end, so the RD wouldn't shift properly. A different shop put in a much more generous RD housing, and presto, problem fixed...


----------



## roadworthy

SkiRacer55 said:


> I've heard you're not supposed to cross cables...but I'm no expert, and so I'd trust what roadworthy has to say. The Big Fix for me was that the original install had insufficient cable housing on the back end, so the RD wouldn't shift properly. A different shop put in a much more generous RD housing, and presto, problem fixed...


For reference:
http://www.specialized.com/media/whatsnew/IG0304_Roubaix_revA.pdf


----------



## roadworthy

awfpack said:


> Thanks for the rely, I have all Ultegra. I have SG-X 50-F. Any ideas about the shifting problem. The shop I got it at said that is normal for Shimano and I need to hold the shift for a count of "one one thousand" Do other bike brands use the California Cross? Is it normal for a bike to had a axel to long? They were talking about shaving it down. They also said that the rear dropout look very small on the left side. Thanks again for all your help.


Best to know what model Ultegra Groupset you have...6700 or 6800.
If you want a bit more help, you need to define exactly what your shift issue is...up or down the cassette...front shifting etc. California Cross isn't essential but preferred and what I ride for example. I have installed both DA and Campy on my bike and it has always shifted perfectly. Really this stuff is about attention to detail...length of cables, how they are routed, how square and seated the cable housings are and overall adjustment of both derailleurs.
As to axle length...need more clarification. If you have quick disconnect skewers, they are pretty insensitive to length. Maybe you mean the actual axle through the hub. Never heard of an issue there. Dropout small on the left side? Never heard of it. What do you mean by a small drop out...short?
Good luck.


----------



## thumper8888

No that is NOT normal for Shimano, other than rear shifting on the 7900, mainly when youre running 7900 with tight cable radii on the bars and then convoluted internal running of remainder of cable back to the rear mech.
In cases like that 7900 will often hang up.
And this stuff about the "slightly long axle" and "small looking left rear dropout", for godsakes, are your shop guys stoned? Are you in Colorado?


----------



## digibud

*my advice...*



awfpack said:


> While they were checking my bike over they said that my rear axle looks to be slightly to long. The shop I got the bike from said that it is not uncommon to have to come in 8-10 times in the first year for cable stretch. Any advice would be great.


 Run, don't walk, to find a competent bike shop. Unless you bought some crazy rear wheel, road wheels are reasonably standard and if those are the stock wheels that came with the bike I can't see any way your rear axle is too long. You could grab some calipers and measure it but in light of their other comment that bringing a bike in 8-10 times in the first year for cable stretch, I declare them to be incompetent. Cables don't actually stretch but the ferrules and housing sometimes need to seat properly and settle in. After several rides with some shifting and braking they will all be pulled into place and some slack may develop so both may need to be adjusted. After that it could be years before any change may be needed although something can bump this or that around or a cable may slip through a bolt that wasn't tight. There is NO WAY a bike should typically need to be readjusted 8-10 times. That's just a lie. I recently redid all my cables and my wife's cables and housing. I tighten them into the ferrules carefully and pull tight to embed them into the bike nice and tight. I don't end up needing to adjust for ANY "cable stretch". Not once. You have an incompetent LBS or their area of competence is in getting people to pay for unneeded services.


----------



## awfpack

Best to know what model Ultegra Groupset you have...6700 or 6800. 
Not sure how to find that When I looked at the specs all it says is Ultegra.

If you want a bit more help, you need to define exactly what your shift issue is...up or down the cassette...front shifting etc. 

It mostly happens when I am in the big ring up front and about middle ways up on the back ring. It would not shift then I would click again and it would go up 2 or down 2 depending on the direction I was shifting. Also I would get alot of noise (rubbing ) as well

California Cross isn't essential but preferred and what I ride for example. I have installed both DA and Campy on my bike and it has always shifted perfectly. Really this stuff is about attention to detail...length of cables, how they are routed, how square and seated the cable housings are and overall adjustment of both derailleurs.
As to axle length...need more clarification. If you have quick disconnect skewers, they are pretty insensitive to length. Maybe you mean the actual axle through the hub.

I think they were talking about the actual axle... they said something about even putting in a washer or something. 

Never heard of an issue there. Dropout small on the left side? Never heard of it. What do you mean by a small drop out....

The LBS I got the bike from said the dropouts are asymmetrical and are different lengths. The other shop was the one that said the dropouts were very narrow on the left side (looking from the back of the bike). 

I don't live in the town I got the bike from but I do get 1 yr free adjustments from them. I am just want to get this all resolved. The last time I spoke to them they said they would need to keep my bike for more than a day to really get it dialed in.

Thanks again for your help


----------



## roadworthy

awfpack said:


> Best to know what model Ultegra Groupset you have...6700 or 6800.
> Not sure how to find that When I looked at the specs all it says is Ultegra.
> 
> If you want a bit more help, you need to define exactly what your shift issue is...up or down the cassette...front shifting etc.
> 
> It mostly happens when I am in the big ring up front and about middle ways up on the back ring. It would not shift then I would click again and it would go up 2 or down 2 depending on the direction I was shifting. Also I would get alot of noise (rubbing ) as well
> 
> California Cross isn't essential but preferred and what I ride for example. I have installed both DA and Campy on my bike and it has always shifted perfectly. Really this stuff is about attention to detail...length of cables, how they are routed, how square and seated the cable housings are and overall adjustment of both derailleurs.
> As to axle length...need more clarification. If you have quick disconnect skewers, they are pretty insensitive to length. Maybe you mean the actual axle through the hub.
> 
> I think they were talking about the actual axle... they said something about even putting in a washer or something.
> 
> Never heard of an issue there. Dropout small on the left side? Never heard of it. What do you mean by a small drop out....
> 
> The LBS I got the bike from said the dropouts are asymmetrical and are different lengths. The other shop was the one that said the dropouts were very narrow on the left side (looking from the back of the bike).
> 
> I don't live in the town I got the bike from but I do get 1 yr free adjustments from them. I am just want to get this all resolved. The last time I spoke to them they said they would need to keep my bike for more than a day to really get it dialed in.
> 
> Thanks again for your help


You didn't mention difficulty shifting in front. So it sounds like an indexing error in back. If you are getting pretty good shifting in the smaller cogs which btw is natural because smaller cogs are a straighter chainline to the big ring you reference...but shifting goes astray toward bigger cogs where chainline is more challenged, sounds like you have what is called an indexing error. If you have solid shifting over many cogs in back but towards one end of the cassette you lose your indexing, then the primary culprit is a bent derailleur hanger.
So what I suggest is this. Tell them you want them to take off the rear derailleur...this takes 5 minutes and place a rear derailleur alignment tool...Park makes a good one and what most bike shops use and what I have...and make sure they get the rear derailleur hanger straight to the wheel rim. In particular if your drop outs aren't perfect, sounds like your derailleur hanger isn't plumb to your wheel in all directions. This is critical to perfect shifting.
That's where I would start. The rest is just cable tension and setting the inboard and outboard stops but you are having shift issues toward the middle of the cassette. Likely your cable tension isn't right either. You didn't say anything about lazy shifting down the cassette which is the leading problem of a poorly shifting bike born out of excessive inner cable tension....so start with rear derailleur alignment.
Good luck


----------



## PJ352

digibud said:


> Run, don't walk, to find a competent bike shop.


This. Reading through what's been offered by this shop, it's clear they'd never touch *my* bike. IMO it defies logic to have to prompt someone you're paying on how to remedy the problems you're experiencing. 

Find a good shop, and (longer term) learn how to work on your own bike.


----------



## eugenetsang

Just curious. I was just doing a little window shopping on the Specialized website. Noticed that the price for the previous Tarmac SL4 is a little bit more expensive when compared to the current "Rider's First Engineered" Tarmac.

Other than having a minor or depending on who you ask, a major upgrade to the current frame... Components are pretty much the same. SRAM Red 22's and same Roval wheels... With the current trend of the bicycle game, prices are consistently increasing year after year.

Is Specialized breaking the mold? Lowering prices on all future models? Probably wishful thinking....


Specialized Bicycle Components


----------



## awfpack

Here are some pics of my rear axle. Also here are a few pics of the front fork finish. Is that just the carbon and it should look like that?


----------



## 1Butcher

The carbon appears fine. I know it is a new bike and you are very sensitive with the purchase. With all new mechanical things, they need to wear in a bit and then make the adjustments. If I were you, I would go buy a book and read up on the basics of a bike. This way, you will get a good idea about what you are doing. This information will help you when you are on the side of the road with a break down. Trust me, it will happen someday if you ride a lot.

As for what Roadworthy was indicating with the rear derailleur, the derailleur is bolted to the bike. It is attached to what they call the rear derailleur drop out [normally these are replaceable]. These get bent at times and need to be aligned. The tool is fairly inexpensive and worth buying. The bonus is that they are easy to use. I believe if you go to a bike store and ask for the rear derailleur adjusting tool, they might look at you funny. If you ask for a rear derailleur drop out adjusting tool, they might get right on it for you. 

Either way, going to a bike store and leaving your bike there for a day and then going back is a pain in the but for a simple adjustment [assuming that the new bike was put together properly]. Long story short. Get a book [Park makes a good one], buy some simple tools, and tinker with the bike a little.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

awfpack said:


> Hi, I got a 2014 Roubaix SL4 expert this past fall. I have read this tread but I do not have a great deal of knowledge on bike problems and fixes. I have taken my bike in at least 6 times in the last 7 months and every time they say cable stretch. I went to a different shop and they looked at it and said that the cables were crossed in the frame and had to replace the front derailleur cable. While they were checking my bike over they said that my rear axle looks to be slightly to long. The shop I got the bike from said that it is not uncommon to have to come in 8-10 times in the first year for cable stretch. Any advice would be great.



Hey there,

Sorry I've been away from the forums and hadn't seen your posts until now...

This does seem like an odd situation. As some others have already mentioned, adjusting for "cable stretch" shouldn't take this many visits to the shop. 

I haven't heard of shifting issues specifically related to the Roubaix SL4; and the Ultegra 6800 series groupset has generally proved to be very reliable so far. The major culprit is getting the cables crossed inside the frame's downtube -which it sounds like has been fixed now.

I'd hate to question your shop's abilities, but I am a bit surprised they haven't been able to nail down the issue. It might help if they called their Customer Service rep and go thru any potential issues on the phone. 
I'd also encourage you to read, watch, and learn how some of this stuff works too! It can come in real handy when you're out on the road and in a jam.


----------



## awfpack

Thanks for the reply Joe. Could you look at those pics above and let me know thats the way the finish should look on my bike.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

awfpack said:


> Here are some pics of my rear axle. Also here are a few pics of the front fork finish. Is that just the carbon and it should look like that?


Thanks for the pics. Nothing seems out of place with your hub or axle in those photos. And the frame is just fine! You're noticing the different layers of carbon through the clear coat. They can appear different in certain light.:thumbsup:


----------



## awfpack

Thank you so much!!!! I do have a 2013 SL4. If I can get this shifting resolved then I am good to go.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

eugenetsang said:


> Just curious. I was just doing a little window shopping on the Specialized website. Noticed that the price for the previous Tarmac SL4 is a little bit more expensive when compared to the current "Rider's First Engineered" Tarmac.
> 
> Other than having a minor or depending on who you ask, a major upgrade to the current frame... Components are pretty much the same. SRAM Red 22's and same Roval wheels... With the current trend of the bicycle game, prices are consistently increasing year after year.
> 
> Is Specialized breaking the mold? Lowering prices on all future models? Probably wishful thinking....
> 
> 
> Specialized Bicycle Components


I guess the new Tarmac is just a smokin' deal!

We are certainly doing our best to stay competitive with the pricing and specs; the rest of our 2015 bikes and pricing will be introduced on our website soon.
I don't think we're going full Wal-Mart style and rolling back prices on everything though!


----------



## Winn

Joe,

I bought a used Tricross sport and have been wondering what year it is. I have searched quite a bit and haven't found one in this color though I do find the same configuration. It has the larger carbon clear finish Fact fork and it is blue and black. The bottom bracket has WUD B 7068 1585 stamped on it. Here's a pic










I love the bike and in the end it doesn't really matter what year it is since it was barely used when I bought it but it would be nice to know.

Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to shine on the subject.

Rob Winn


----------



## BvT

Hey Joe,

looking for a new seatpost, preferably the S-Works SL Carbon 2-Bolt. Only information about possible weightlimitations was in your online-manual for carbon seatpost from 2010 (109kg). I assume this is still up to date?

Greetings
BvT


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Winn said:


> Joe,
> 
> I bought a used Tricross sport and have been wondering what year it is. I have searched quite a bit and haven't found one in this color though I do find the same configuration. It has the larger carbon clear finish Fact fork and it is blue and black. The bottom bracket has WUD B 7068 1585 stamped on it. Here's a pic
> 
> I love the bike and in the end it doesn't really matter what year it is since it was barely used when I bought it but it would be nice to know.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to shine on the subject.
> 
> Rob Winn



Hey Rob, 

Cool bike! It looks like that guy is a 2008. Seen here:
Specialized Bicycle Components

If you're interested in checking out anything else, we have a pretty good archive of our bikes and all their colorways here:
Specialized Bicycle Components


----------



## Specialized_Joe

BvT said:


> Hey Joe,
> 
> looking for a new seatpost, preferably the S-Works SL Carbon 2-Bolt. Only information about possible weightlimitations was in your online-manual for carbon seatpost from 2010 (109kg). I assume this is still up to date?
> 
> Greetings
> BvT



Hey there,

Yes, you're correct. All of our carbon seatposts carry a 240lb (109kg) maximum rider weight. Let me know if you have any other questions!


----------



## Winn

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey Rob,
> 
> Cool bike! It looks like that guy is a 2008. Seen here:
> Specialized Bicycle Components
> 
> If you're interested in checking out anything else, we have a pretty good archive of our bikes and all their colorways here:
> Specialized Bicycle Components


Thanks that's it! The strange thing is that I thought I had looked through all of that there and I somehow missed it.

Thanks again for the help


----------



## BvT

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> Yes, you're correct. All of our carbon seatposts carry a 240lb (109kg) maximum rider weight. Let me know if you have any other questions!


awesome, thank you!
guess i'll have a shiny new S-Works seatpost


----------



## NealH

A question for Specialized Joe:

The aluminum Diverge models include rack mounts, front and rear. The carbon models appear to have fender (rack ?) mounts but do not have front mounts....I don't think. Anyway, is it acceptable to put a rear rack on a carbon model (even if weight restrictions apply)?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

NealH said:


> A question for Specialized Joe:
> 
> The aluminum Diverge models include rack mounts, front and rear. The carbon models appear to have fender (rack ?) mounts but do not have front mounts....I don't think. Anyway, is it acceptable to put a rear rack on a carbon model (even if weight restrictions apply)?


Good questions, 

There are 3 frame platforms for the Diverge family. For handling purposes, I'd _highly_ recommend a front rack over a rear rack on these bikes when possible. We've found that the Tubus Ergo rack works great, and I assume there are some other good options out there.

Diverge Carbon Models:
These have front mid-fork rack mounts. 
The rear is rack compatible using the dropout rack/fender mounting holes and a fender mounting hole on the seatstay. There is no dedicated frame mount on the carbon bike. If you wanted to get crafty you could probably use some sort of seatpost clamp rack mount. 

Diverge Smartweld:
This uses the same fork as the carbon models and has the same mid-fork rack mounts. 
The Smartweld frame has traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.

Diverge A1 Models:
There are no front fork rack mounting options.
There are traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.

Ultimately, to answer your question...
Yes, its acceptable to put a rear rack on there. But the bike will handle much better with a front rack than rear. Hopefully that helps!


----------



## wrshultz

*Diverge Questions??*



Specialized_Joe said:


> Good questions,
> 
> There are 3 frame platforms for the Diverge family. For handling purposes, I'd _highly_ recommend a front rack over a rear rack on these bikes when possible. We've found that the Tubus Ergo rack works great, and I assume there are some other good options out there.
> 
> Diverge Carbon Models:
> These have front mid-fork rack mounts.
> The rear is rack compatible using the dropout rack/fender mounting holes and a fender mounting hole on the seatstay. There is no dedicated frame mount on the carbon bike. If you wanted to get crafty you could probably use some sort of seatpost clamp rack mount.
> 
> Diverge Smartweld:
> This uses the same fork as the carbon models and has the same mid-fork rack mounts.
> The Smartweld frame has traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.
> 
> Diverge A1 Models:
> There are no front fork rack mounting options.
> There are traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.
> 
> Ultimately, to answer your question...
> Yes, its acceptable to put a rear rack on there. But the bike will handle much better with a front rack than rear. Hopefully that helps!


Joe,

A couple more questions on the Diverge Carbon Di2:

1. When I magnify the website photo, there appears to be a "chain catcher" mounted on the front derailleur mounting bolt. Is this what I'm seeing, and will it be standard equipment on this model?

2. Is that a tail light or some type of SWAT container mounted to the bottom rear of the drop seat post?

Thanks for all your answers and contributions.

Bill


----------



## Specialized_Joe

wrshultz said:


> Joe,
> 
> A couple more questions on the Diverge Carbon Di2:
> 
> 1. When I magnify the website photo, there appears to be a "chain catcher" mounted on the front derailleur mounting bolt. Is this what I'm seeing, and will it be standard equipment on this model?
> 
> 2. Is that a tail light or some type of SWAT container mounted to the bottom rear of the drop seat post?
> 
> Thanks for all your answers and contributions.
> 
> Bill


Hey Bill, good eyes!

1. Yes, that is a chain catcher. Is is coming with all models of Di2 bikes this year.

2. Yes, that is a tail light. We are introducing a line of lights and this is one of them. There should be a bunch more info specifically about the lights coming out soon.


----------



## wrshultz

*Diverge Questions??*

Joe,

More questions on the Diverge Carbon Di2 spec, if you can divulge on the Diverge.

Any details yet on the Roval Control SL SCS wheelset?
1. Tubeless compatible?
2. Rim width - external and internal?
3. Approximate weight?

Thanks again,

Bill



Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey Bill, good eyes!
> 
> 1. Yes, that is a chain catcher. Is is coming with all models of Di2 bikes this year.
> 
> 2. Yes, that is a tail light. We are introducing a line of lights and this is one of them. There should be a bunch more info specifically about the lights coming out soon.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

wrshultz said:


> Joe,
> 
> More questions on the Diverge Carbon Di2 spec, if you can divulge on the Diverge.
> 
> Any details yet on the Roval Control SL SCS wheelset?
> 1. Tubeless compatible?
> 2. Rim width - external and internal?
> 3. Approximate weight?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Bill


Yep, I can share any specifics on that bike now!

1. Yes, tubeless compatible.
2. 26mm external width, 22mm internal width. It uses the same rims as our Roval Control SL Wheelset. 
3. The weight is about 1370g.


----------



## Bike N Gear

Specialized_Joe said:


> Yep, I can share any specifics on that bike now!
> 
> 1. Yes, tubeless compatible.
> 2. 26mm external width, 22mm internal width. It uses the same rims as our Roval Control SL Wheelset.
> 3. The weight is about 1370g.


So based on that, can the current Roval Control SL wheels safely be run with a Tubeless road tire?


----------



## wrshultz

Thanks Joe!

Very pleased with everything I'm hearing!!



Specialized_Joe said:


> Yep, I can share any specifics on that bike now!
> 
> 1. Yes, tubeless compatible.
> 2. 26mm external width, 22mm internal width. It uses the same rims as our Roval Control SL Wheelset.
> 3. The weight is about 1370g.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Bike N Gear said:


> So based on that, can the current Roval Control SL wheels safely be run with a Tubeless road tire?


In general, no. 
The Control SL rims weren't designed to handle the higher pressures you'd need to run a regular road tire at -tubeless or otherwise. 
CX tubeless tires, which you would normally run in the 30-60psi range are OK.


----------



## wrshultz

*Tubeless options?*

Joe,

Will there be a tubeless version of the Roubaix Pro 700x30/32C in the future?

Thanks again and again and again,



Specialized_Joe said:


> In general, no.
> The Control SL rims weren't designed to handle the higher pressures you'd need to run a regular road tire at -tubeless or otherwise.
> CX tubeless tires, which you would normally run in the 30-60psi range are OK.


----------



## Petsah

Specialized_Joe said:


> Good questions,
> 
> There are 3 frame platforms for the Diverge family. For handling purposes, I'd _highly_ recommend a front rack over a rear rack on these bikes when possible. We've found that the Tubus Ergo rack works great, and I assume there are some other good options out there.
> 
> Diverge Carbon Models:
> These have front mid-fork rack mounts.
> The rear is rack compatible using the dropout rack/fender mounting holes and a fender mounting hole on the seatstay. There is no dedicated frame mount on the carbon bike. If you wanted to get crafty you could probably use some sort of seatpost clamp rack mount.
> 
> Diverge Smartweld:
> This uses the same fork as the carbon models and has the same mid-fork rack mounts.
> The Smartweld frame has traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.
> 
> Diverge A1 Models:
> There are no front fork rack mounting options.
> There are traditional rack mounts on the seatstay and dropout area.
> 
> Ultimately, to answer your question...
> Yes, its acceptable to put a rear rack on there. But the bike will handle much better with a front rack than rear. Hopefully that helps!


Hello, Joe.
Very interesting thread for someone about to buy a new Specialized. Thank you for your effort. I have been describing my perfect bike the same way for over 12 years now. Specialized finally answers with the Diverge Comp carbon, which basically ticks all boxes. A LONG wait.
BUT I do want to know more about the best possible fender solution for this bike. As I ride one bike, many kilometers, almost every day all year round in Swedish weather ( snow slush or rain representing most common condition ) bombproof fenders with full coverage is absolutely essential for me. Is there a plug and play fender set coming out for these models? If I understand it correctly, your currently marketed plug and play set is not for the Diverge's kind of mount options on that fork? Should I worry not to be able to get a good covering fender set on there? A few images of fenders mounted on a Diverge carbon would be interesting. Of course I can always do some extreme fiddling on my own, but a streamlined and dedicated solution would be nice for this type of machine.

Thank you for Diverge! / Peter


----------



## bkw

Hi Joe, hoping you might be able to assist.

I've got a 2011 Tarmac SL2 and I damaged my front wheel this weekend and need to replace it. I'm currently running the OEM Fulcrum Racing 6's with 23mm Conti 4000's and I'd like to upgrade those to 25mm's also. 

Anyways, what's the *maximum width rim* I can use while running 25mm tires? I'm thinking a 25mm rim and 25mm tire will be pretty square and therefore a bit narrower than a 25 on a 23mm or thinner rim. But concerned that the 25mm rim might rub on the stays.

Anyways, I'm 225lbs if that helps in making a recommendation.

Thanks!!


EDIT:

I bought a caliper and did some measuring. 
The Fulcrum Racing 6 wheel is 21mm wide and the 23mm Conti 4000S is 23.2mm wide @ 100psi.


----------



## onpaperwings

*Diverge Weights?*



Specialized_Joe said:


> Yep, I can share any specifics on that bike now!
> 
> 1. Yes, tubeless compatible.
> 2. 26mm external width, 22mm internal width. It uses the same rims as our Roval Control SL Wheelset.
> 3. The weight is about 1370g.


I am VERY seriously looking into the Diverge as my replacement road/gravel/cross/communting bike. I'm excited about the thru-axles front and rear, hydro brakes, and Roubaix geometry.

Can you please share the full weights of the Diverge? I can't seem to find this information anywhere online.

I'm specifically looking at the Diverge Comp Carbon and Diverge Expert Carbon.

Thanks!


----------



## Simon the viking

A simple question to Specialized Joe: On the Smartweld version, there is no bending of the Seat tube to accommodate larger tire as on the carbon version where we can clearly see the seat tube "cut" in the moulding process. Does the Smartweld really allow to run 35c tires or only the Carbon versions will ?


----------



## Specialized_Joe

wrshultz said:


> Joe,
> 
> Will there be a tubeless version of the Roubaix Pro 700x30/32C in the future?
> 
> Thanks again and again and again,


I can't comment about that one unfortunately! 

If you are looking for tubeless tires to run on there, I'd suggest the Trigger Pro 2Bliss Ready tire. Its a 33mm tire designed for CX use but it does well as an all-rounder.


----------



## wrshultz

*Diverge Carbon Di2*



Specialized_Joe said:


> I can't comment about that one unfortunately!
> 
> If you are looking for tubeless tires to run on there, I'd suggest the Trigger Pro 2Bliss Ready tire. Its a 33mm tire designed for CX use but it does well as an all-rounder.


Thanks again Joe!

One last question - I swear!!

Is the Di2 battery mounted inside the seat post on the Diverge Carbon Di2? I wasn't sure if the drop-post cable might interfere, but I didn't pick up an external battery mount on any of the Deux North or Dealer Show pics.


----------



## FrankGold

Hi, S-works Venge owner here and just wondering have any other venge or Specialized owners notice the problem that I am having???
Where the rear brake cable enters the top tube the cable is chaffing (if that's the right word?) basically every time I turn the bars to the left the cable outer pinches off the black insert and cuts away at the cable!!!!!!! I have plenty of cable so its not that its to short, I might try and take a picture later to show it better.


----------



## roadworthy

FrankGold said:


> Hi, S-works Venge owner here and just wondering have any other venge or Specialized owners notice the problem that I am having???
> Where the rear brake cable enters the top tube the cable is chaffing (if that's the right word?) basically every time I turn the bars to the left the cable outer pinches off the black insert and cuts away at the cable!!!!!!! I have plenty of cable so its not that its to short, I might try and take a picture later to show it better.
> 
> View attachment 299342


Take a close up picture of the chafing and a picture that shows your overall cable routing into the problem area for a solid answer.

Very cool looking bike. A beauty.


----------



## scottma

I've always loved the paint scheme on that Venge. One of the best looking bikes Spec has put out.


----------



## 1Butcher

@FrankGold. This is Joe's thread so watch for his response, but it appears that the handlebars are fully wrapped and the cables are under the wrap. If they exit where the tape ends, that does not give much flexibility of any hard cable housing. 

Either have the cables exit before the tape ends, have more flexible cable housing [Nokon, etc], or don't turn the handlebar so far.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

bkw said:


> Hi Joe, hoping you might be able to assist.
> 
> I've got a 2011 Tarmac SL2 and I damaged my front wheel this weekend and need to replace it. I'm currently running the OEM Fulcrum Racing 6's with 23mm Conti 4000's and I'd like to upgrade those to 25mm's also.
> 
> Anyways, what's the *maximum width rim* I can use while running 25mm tires? I'm thinking a 25mm rim and 25mm tire will be pretty square and therefore a bit narrower than a 25 on a 23mm or thinner rim. But concerned that the 25mm rim might rub on the stays.
> 
> Anyways, I'm 225lbs if that helps in making a recommendation.
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> I bought a caliper and did some measuring.
> The Fulcrum Racing 6 wheel is 21mm wide and the 23mm Conti 4000S is 23.2mm wide @ 100psi.


Hey there,

I unfortunately don't have an SL2 around too look at and check clearances myself. A wider rim will certainly make the tire profile a bit wider but I'd guess that you will still have clearance as far as the tire is concerned. However, some very wide carbon rims (Zipp 303 Firecrest for example) bulge wider than at the brake track and didn't fit some of the first Tarmac SL4 frames.
If there is a specific rim/tire combo you're thinking of running, feel free to PM me and I can try to get an exact answer for you.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

onpaperwings said:


> I am VERY seriously looking into the Diverge as my replacement road/gravel/cross/communting bike. I'm excited about the thru-axles front and rear, hydro brakes, and Roubaix geometry.
> 
> Can you please share the full weights of the Diverge? I can't seem to find this information anywhere online.
> 
> I'm specifically looking at the Diverge Comp Carbon and Diverge Expert Carbon.
> 
> Thanks!


Hey there, 

Unfortunately, I don't have 100% accurate weights for these two models either...the ones that we have weighed had some different parts on them. 
Adding up the changes in my head though, the Comp should be right at 19 lbs. and the Expert about 18.5 lbs. (both in a 56cm). I hope that helps!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Petsah said:


> Hello, Joe.
> Very interesting thread for someone about to buy a new Specialized. Thank you for your effort. I have been describing my perfect bike the same way for over 12 years now. Specialized finally answers with the Diverge Comp carbon, which basically ticks all boxes. A LONG wait.
> BUT I do want to know more about the best possible fender solution for this bike. As I ride one bike, many kilometers, almost every day all year round in Swedish weather ( snow slush or rain representing most common condition ) bombproof fenders with full coverage is absolutely essential for me. Is there a plug and play fender set coming out for these models? If I understand it correctly, your currently marketed plug and play set is not for the Diverge's kind of mount options on that fork? Should I worry not to be able to get a good covering fender set on there? A few images of fenders mounted on a Diverge carbon would be interesting. Of course I can always do some extreme fiddling on my own, but a streamlined and dedicated solution would be nice for this type of machine.
> 
> Thank you for Diverge! / Peter


Hey Peter,

I'm glad to hear we finally make your perfect bike. You sound like one badass commuter! 
The plug and play fenders are actually compatible with the Diverge. You do need to remove the front fender's mounting bracket, but other than that they mount right up. I'll try and get some pictures of that setup next week for you.
The bike was designed to work with most other fenders on the market as well. Also, note that tire clearance goes from 35mm to 32mm max with fenders.
There are a few pictures in this BikeRadar gallery that show the Plug and Play mount system if you're interested.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

Simon the viking said:


> A simple question to Specialized Joe: On the Smartweld version, there is no bending of the Seat tube to accommodate larger tire as on the carbon version where we can clearly see the seat tube "cut" in the moulding process. Does the Smartweld really allow to run 35c tires or only the Carbon versions will ?


Good question,
Both the Smartweld and Carbon Diverge do have clearance for 35c tires. There is less room between the tire and seat tube on the Smartweld version but it still clears just fine.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

wrshultz said:


> Thanks again Joe!
> 
> One last question - I swear!!
> 
> Is the Di2 battery mounted inside the seat post on the Diverge Carbon Di2? I wasn't sure if the drop-post cable might interfere, but I didn't pick up an external battery mount on any of the Deux North or Dealer Show pics.


Haha, no problem. The battery is actually mounted underneath the BB on the Di2 model. As you suspected, the dropper post internals and cable don't allow for the internal battery on that model. You can just barely make out the battery in this picture here.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

FrankGold said:


> Hi, S-works Venge owner here and just wondering have any other venge or Specialized owners notice the problem that I am having???
> Where the rear brake cable enters the top tube the cable is chaffing (if that's the right word?) basically every time I turn the bars to the left the cable outer pinches off the black insert and cuts away at the cable!!!!!!! I have plenty of cable so its not that its to short, I might try and take a picture later to show it better.


Yes, take another picture or two of that area if possible. I think I know what you're asking but more visuals would help for sure! :thumbsup:


----------



## rickdees

Will 32mm tires fit on the 2015 Roubaix disc models?


----------



## bkw

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I unfortunately don't have an SL2 around too look at and check clearances myself. A wider rim will certainly make the tire profile a bit wider but I'd guess that you will still have clearance as far as the tire is concerned. However, some very wide carbon rims (Zipp 303 Firecrest for example) bulge wider than at the brake track and didn't fit some of the first Tarmac SL4 frames.
> If there is a specific rim/tire combo you're thinking of running, feel free to PM me and I can try to get an exact answer for you.


Thanks Joe!

And to follow up on this and for anyone else wondering, 25mm wide wheels (and even 27mm wheels) with 25mm Conti 4000S will fit the 2011 Tarmac SL2. 

I'm running 27mm 40mm carbon clinchers with 25mm 4000s Conti's and they clear the rear just fine!


----------



## kt22mike

I would like to give you some feedback on your bikes I have an S-works with about 25,000 miles on it. I have been getting into long distance riding lately (across USA, etc) and while I use the S-Works (sag supported rides) I really wanted to put on a rear rack and carry rain gear etc. Lately my interest is growing for doing some rides where I need to carry a couple days of clothes (credit carding for hotels). To be clear I am not looking for a heavy touring bike. 

I know you can't do this with carbon so I have been looking at the Secteur. I have to tell you I am disappointed with the choice of components that are available (Shimano 105 being the highest level of component available, heavy wheels, etc). I understand you are targeted a specific market with this bike. 

So I asked my LBS to see if they could get a Secteur frame/fork from Specialized so my LBS could build up the bike with better components and the answer from your company was a resounding "no". 

If you want to keep your local bike shops in business it would be a no brainer to allow them the ability to build custom configurations. It could really be a differentiator for a Specialized Dealer. Much different and more value add for the dealer than Trek's program Custom One program. 

You could even insist that they use Specialized parts - where available (seats, wheels, bars, etc). But give your dealers the ability to build up bikes that customers are willing to pay. With a modern on-line ordering system it would be easy to create a custom bill of materials and ship the frame/fork and with user specific components to the LBS. Or if this is too complicated - let the dealer stock your components so all you would have to do is ship the frame/fork.

For me, I have given up on Specialized so I am now looking at buying a Honey bike so I can get the bike I want (Sram components, better wheels, etc). You have lost a good customer that has spent a lot of money on your products in the past.

The LBS needs help against the internet. This is a program that would help them.


----------



## 1Butcher

Honey vs Specialized? Really. Might as well dump your Ferrari for a Chevrolet.

Might be easy to do with an on line ordering site, but a pain in the butt and a financial loss to actually make it happen.

Have fun with your Honey.


----------



## Chader09

kt22mike said:


> I know you can't do this with carbon


Why can't you tour with a carbon bike?

If its about the lack of rack mounts, you can easily add "P" clips that work fine as long as you don't get crazy with the amount of gear you carry.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

rickdees said:


> Will 32mm tires fit on the 2015 Roubaix disc models?


Hey there, 

Most likely not. There is officially clearance for 28mm tires on the Roubaix Disc. Some riders have run wider tires (30mm) on there but clearance depends a lot on the actual width and not the just the claimed width.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

bkw said:


> Thanks Joe!
> 
> And to follow up on this and for anyone else wondering, 25mm wide wheels (and even 27mm wheels) with 25mm Conti 4000S will fit the 2011 Tarmac SL2.
> 
> I'm running 27mm 40mm carbon clinchers with 25mm 4000s Conti's and they clear the rear just fine!



Thanks for the update! What wheels are you running?

Also, remember it's the internal width that matters and not the external width. Although outer width is a pretty good indicator of what internal width you end up at.


----------



## TSW910

bkw said:


> Hi Joe, hoping you might be able to assist.
> 
> I've got a 2011 Tarmac SL2 and I damaged my front wheel this weekend and need to replace it. I'm currently running the OEM Fulcrum Racing 6's with 23mm Conti 4000's and I'd like to upgrade those to 25mm's also.
> 
> Anyways, what's the *maximum width rim* I can use while running 25mm tires? I'm thinking a 25mm rim and 25mm tire will be pretty square and therefore a bit narrower than a 25 on a 23mm or thinner rim. But concerned that the 25mm rim might rub on the stays.
> 
> Anyways, I'm 225lbs if that helps in making a recommendation.
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I bought a caliper and did some measuring.
> The Fulcrum Racing 6 wheel is 21mm wide and the 23mm Conti 4000S is 23.2mm wide @ 100psi.



HI There, 

I too have the 2011 Tarmac SL2 and am currently running a 25mm wide carbon rim and 25 conti 4000s .. it clears the rear with no issues!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

kt22mike said:


> I would like to give you some feedback on your bikes I have an S-works with about 25,000 miles on it. I have been getting into long distance riding lately (across USA, etc) and while I use the S-Works (sag supported rides) I really wanted to put on a rear rack and carry rain gear etc. Lately my interest is growing for doing some rides where I need to carry a couple days of clothes (credit carding for hotels). To be clear I am not looking for a heavy touring bike.
> 
> I know you can't do this with carbon so I have been looking at the Secteur. I have to tell you I am disappointed with the choice of components that are available (Shimano 105 being the highest level of component available, heavy wheels, etc). I understand you are targeted a specific market with this bike.
> 
> So I asked my LBS to see if they could get a Secteur frame/fork from Specialized so my LBS could build up the bike with better components and the answer from your company was a resounding "no".
> 
> If you want to keep your local bike shops in business it would be a no brainer to allow them the ability to build custom configurations. It could really be a differentiator for a Specialized Dealer. Much different and more value add for the dealer than Trek's program Custom One program.
> 
> You could even insist that they use Specialized parts - where available (seats, wheels, bars, etc). But give your dealers the ability to build up bikes that customers are willing to pay. With a modern on-line ordering system it would be easy to create a custom bill of materials and ship the frame/fork and with user specific components to the LBS. Or if this is too complicated - let the dealer stock your components so all you would have to do is ship the frame/fork.
> 
> For me, I have given up on Specialized so I am now looking at buying a Honey bike so I can get the bike I want (Sram components, better wheels, etc). You have lost a good customer that has spent a lot of money on your products in the past.
> 
> The LBS needs help against the internet. This is a program that would help them.


Thanks for all your thoughts, and I'm sorry that we don't seem to offer a suitable bike for your needs. 
We actually just launched a bike called the Diverge - it could be perfect for the features you need. It has geometry similar to our Roubaix, but with clearance for up to 35mm tires. There are two carbon models and a Smartweld alloy model that allow for front and rear racks.
Another option on your current road bike could be to use a seatpost mounted rack to carry the few things you need.

Anyway, to your main point...
We do offer framesets in many bike families. Unfortunately, just not with Secteur right now. Custom specced bikes are an exciting idea, but honestly it's quite a bit more complicated to execute individually than you might realize. Smaller companies with pick your own specs certainly do have an advantage in that area.
Have fun on whatever new bike you get. Those long tours sound great! :thumbsup:


----------



## jesterz99

Hey joe
Just put down payment on a 2015 allez. Bike shop said it has a carbon fork . I see specialized has not updated website for 2015 models. can u let me know if my 2015 allez comes with the carbon fork , also does my base model allez have the same aluminum smart weld tech as the higher priced alum bikes ?
This will be my second road bike and hear u guys make great frames . so let me know what im getting with the entry level alleze , I think a lot of people buy these and want to know but don't ask cause they feel cheap.


----------



## Petsah

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey Peter,
> 
> I'm glad to hear we finally make your perfect bike. You sound like one badass commuter!
> The plug and play fenders are actually compatible with the Diverge. You do need to remove the front fender's mounting bracket, but other than that they mount right up. I'll try and get some pictures of that setup next week for you.
> The bike was designed to work with most other fenders on the market as well. Also, note that tire clearance goes from 35mm to 32mm max with fenders.
> There are a few pictures in this BikeRadar gallery that show the Plug and Play mount system if you're interested.


Thank you for the link. It's a clean solution. The pictures only show the mounts at the "dropouts". How do the fenders connect at the bottom bracket area, fork crown and seat stay area? Do they pass below the bottom bracket area to avoid spray deflection there?


----------



## kt22mike

thanks for the info and response

I just looked at the Diverge and same problem - lower end components (Shimano 105). Not sure why Specialized stays away from the Ultegra on its aluminum bikes. 

And what is with Sram - did you guys have an argument or something?

Feedback on the seatpost mounted racks. They tend to wobble when climbing. Bunch of people tried this last year on a tour and mid way they were all using plastic ties to try secure them. 

Just selling your Secteur frame to your LBS would not be complicated to execute. LBS's need new services to keep them competitive with the internet.

In any case lucked out and bought a Secteur frame on ebay and will attempt to build my first bike - with of course Ultegra.


----------



## NealH

I disagree with the new 105 being low end. Its better than anything Sram or Campy make. If you want Ultegra the next model up has it, although that model is a carbon frame. So you get two upgrades, the carbon frame being the dominate one since 105 isn't much different than Ultegra which isn't much different than DA.


----------



## 1Butcher

The Shimano 105 is the lower end, maybe not the lowest. No one said it was bad.

Saying it's better than Campagnolo is fighting words..

Saying it is better than SRAM, well everyone knows that.


----------



## dkilburn

Good Morning
Just a thought, most everyone has a price point. Budget.
Most everyone likes brand over another. Let it go.

The thing I would suggest is spend your budget wisely.


----------



## MaxSE

Hi Joe,

I'm new to the forum but not to Specialized, first (and perhaps most loved bike for me) was an '89 pink/green Stumpjumper - a real classic.

Anyway, I started a topic on this but your thoughts and input would be great to have:

Looking to get a Tarmac as either a very cherished "bought on a whim, sat in a bedroom, one ride round the block" etc private purchase or new from trade (likely 2013/14 model on sale).

To be clear I'm looking at the base model cheapest in each year Tarmac (ie *not *Elite/Pro/"Expert SLR"/S-Works etc) and to be clear again this is for the frameset only, any other parts spec on a complete bike I'm not interested in as I have the components lined up and anything it comes with will be sold if surplus.

The 2014 was designated* 9r *carbon and *SL4* so I guess pretty much equivilent to top spec from the Tarmac range from a year or two earlier. 

The 2011 models are designated *SL2* and *8r* and differ very little to my eye and limited research. 

But the 2012/13 have no SL designation just 8r, why is this?

Main thing I can see is internal cabling on the 2014 of course but delving deeper how does:

a) the frame build method/compliancy/tube shapes differ?

b) the resulting ride differ?

c) the weight? I've struggled to find actual rider-weighed stats for any of these basic frames. Has anyone weighted their bare frame from recent years and can give accurate figures?

Joe, can you also confirm the OSBB shell width on the 2014 base model Tarmac - is it still 61mm wide like the previous Tarmacs' or did it revert to 68mm?


----------



## Stumpjumper FSR

NealH said:


> *I disagree with the new 105 being low end. Its better than anything Sram or Campy make. * If you want Ultegra the next model up has it, although that model is a carbon frame. So you get two upgrades, the carbon frame being the dominate one since 105 isn't much different than Ultegra which isn't much different than DA.


Now that's funny right there, I don't care who you are!!!


----------



## zenweight

Hi! I just bought a Specialized Tarmac Sport and am super impressed with the new design and ride feel this year. One question- is the finish on the matte black meant to be marked up a bit? (almost like seams or stains?) is this part of the unpainted finish? My bike shop were sold out and had to bring in one from another store and wont really discuss it. Took me a while to save for and I want to be really proud of the new ride. Thanks for your consideration!


----------



## darwinosx

I'm not the Specialized guy but I have a 2014 Roubaix and a 2015 Tarmac Expert in a matte frame and they both look like that. It's normal but can be a little disconcerting. 
Also the Tarmac sport has an SL 4 frame not the newer frame like the Expert and above.


----------



## zenweight

Thanks a lot for the quick reply mate! I can know accept the bike and official bring it into the family (i.e. replace the stock wheels with some fulcrum 5s). ; ) thanks again!


----------



## darwinosx

Sure. Both my bikes had a fulcrum wheels too and I replaced them immediately.


----------



## zenweight

I'm upgrading to Fulcrum 5s, you upgraded from them ; )


----------



## darwinosx

Oh. Yeah I'm a big guy and they weren't stiff enough for me.


----------



## s4gobabygo

who is making the 74 lugged allez frames? are they made in house, or do you outsource those to a builder?

thanks!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

s4gobabygo said:


> who is making the 74 lugged allez frames? are they made in house, or do you outsource those to a builder?
> 
> thanks!


Hey there,
They are done by Mark Dinucci. We just got some more info about them on our website the other day. You can read more about it here.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

zenweight said:


> Hi! I just bought a Specialized Tarmac Sport and am super impressed with the new design and ride feel this year. One question- is the finish on the matte black meant to be marked up a bit? (almost like seams or stains?) is this part of the unpainted finish? My bike shop were sold out and had to bring in one from another store and wont really discuss it. Took me a while to save for and I want to be really proud of the new ride. Thanks for your consideration!


Hey there,
As others have already mentioned, the marks you describe are nothing to worry about. They are where the carbon layers overlap and its a normal look on a bare carbon frame. We basically just apply a satin clear coat over the carbon on that model so that we add as little paint weight as possible. Enjoy your new bike! :thumbsup:


----------



## wrshultz

Joe,

Any luck getting some pics of fenders mounted on a Diverge?

Thanks,

Bill



Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey Peter,
> 
> I'm glad to hear we finally make your perfect bike. You sound like one badass commuter!
> The plug and play fenders are actually compatible with the Diverge. You do need to remove the front fender's mounting bracket, but other than that they mount right up. I'll try and get some pictures of that setup next week for you.
> The bike was designed to work with most other fenders on the market as well. Also, note that tire clearance goes from 35mm to 32mm max with fenders.
> There are a few pictures in this BikeRadar gallery that show the Plug and Play mount system if you're interested.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

jesterz99 said:


> Hey joe
> Just put down payment on a 2015 allez. Bike shop said it has a carbon fork . I see specialized has not updated website for 2015 models. can u let me know if my 2015 allez comes with the carbon fork , also does my base model allez have the same aluminum smart weld tech as the higher priced alum bikes ?
> This will be my second road bike and hear u guys make great frames . so let me know what im getting with the entry level alleze , I think a lot of people buy these and want to know but don't ask cause they feel cheap.


Hey there,

Good question, I'm happy to help try and clear it up.

There are a few different frames and forks throughout the Allez line. I will try summarizing below:


ModelFrameForkBaseE5 PremiumA1 Premium alloySportE5 PremiumCarbon w/alloy steererEliteE5 SmartweldCarbon w/alloy steererCompE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)ExpertE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)ProE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)S-WorksS-Works SmartweldFull carbon (from new Tarmac)

<tbody>

</tbody>
It sounds like you have the base model - so you would have our A1 Premium alloy fork on there. That frame uses a lot of the technology from the higher end Smartweld frames but is a little bit different. The bike is a great buy for the money - enjoy!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

kt22mike said:


> thanks for the info and response
> 
> I just looked at the Diverge and same problem - lower end components (Shimano 105). Not sure why Specialized stays away from the Ultegra on its aluminum bikes.
> 
> And what is with Sram - did you guys have an argument or something?
> 
> Feedback on the seatpost mounted racks. They tend to wobble when climbing. Bunch of people tried this last year on a tour and mid way they were all using plastic ties to try secure them.
> 
> Just selling your Secteur frame to your LBS would not be complicated to execute. LBS's need new services to keep them competitive with the internet.
> 
> In any case lucked out and bought a Secteur frame on ebay and will attempt to build my first bike - with of course Ultegra.


We are good friends with SRAM actually! We just decided to go with more Shimano stuff this year partially based off feedback from our riders and dealers. 

Thanks for the other feedback as well. Enjoy the new bike; I'm glad you got something sorted out!


----------



## darwinosx

The Allez Comp is not on the website for some reason. I'm pretty sure thats the one my dealer has in their shop for $1600. I was thinking of getting that as a second bike to go aong with my 2015 Tarmac Expert. So when will that bike be on the website so I can see the details? 
What about 2015 Allez frames? I might just build one up but I don't see the frames on the website either except for the $2,000 one.

Those aluminum Allez ride really well, not so much flexy as a little springy.




Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> Good question, I'm happy to help try and clear it up.
> 
> There are a few different frames and forks throughout the Allez line. I will try summarizing below:
> 
> 
> ModelFrameForkBaseE5 PremiumA1 Premium alloySportE5 PremiumCarbon w/alloy steererEliteE5 SmartweldCarbon w/alloy steererCompE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)ExpertE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)ProE5 SmartweldFull carbon (from Tarmac SL4)S-WorksS-Works SmartweldFull carbon (from new Tarmac)
> 
> <tbody>
> 
> </tbody>
> It sounds like you have the base model - so you would have our A1 Premium alloy fork on there. That frame uses a lot of the technology from the higher end Smartweld frames but is a little bit different. The bike is a great buy for the money - enjoy!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

darwinosx said:


> The Allez Comp is not on the website for some reason. I'm pretty sure thats the one my dealer has in their shop for $1600. I was thinking of getting that as a second bike to go aong with my 2015 Tarmac Expert. So when will that bike be on the website so I can see the details?
> What about 2015 Allez frames? I might just build one up but I don't see the frames on the website either except for the $2,000 one.
> 
> Those aluminum Allez ride really well, not so much flexy as a little springy.


I noticed that they aren't on the website either. I'm looking into it, sorry!
I'll PM you the full info about those bikes now.


----------



## Specialized_Joe

wrshultz said:


> Joe,
> 
> Any luck getting some pics of fenders mounted on a Diverge?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill


Hey Bill, 
Not yet, unfortunately. Its pretty dry here these days and no one has them on their bike right now. I haven't had a chance yet to put some on just for pictures, sorry! I haven't forgotten about you though!


----------



## Specialized_Joe

MaxSE said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> I'm new to the forum but not to Specialized, first (and perhaps most loved bike for me) was an '89 pink/green Stumpjumper - a real classic.
> 
> Anyway, I started a topic on this but your thoughts and input would be great to have:
> 
> Looking to get a Tarmac as either a very cherished "bought on a whim, sat in a bedroom, one ride round the block" etc private purchase or new from trade (likely 2013/14 model on sale).
> 
> To be clear I'm looking at the base model cheapest in each year Tarmac (ie *not *Elite/Pro/"Expert SLR"/S-Works etc) and to be clear again this is for the frameset only, any other parts spec on a complete bike I'm not interested in as I have the components lined up and anything it comes with will be sold if surplus.
> 
> The 2014 was designated* 9r *carbon and *SL4* so I guess pretty much equivilent to top spec from the Tarmac range from a year or two earlier.
> 
> The 2011 models are designated *SL2* and *8r* and differ very little to my eye and limited research.
> 
> But the 2012/13 have no SL designation just 8r, why is this?
> 
> Main thing I can see is internal cabling on the 2014 of course but delving deeper how does:
> 
> a) the frame build method/compliancy/tube shapes differ?
> 
> b) the resulting ride differ?
> 
> c) the weight? I've struggled to find actual rider-weighed stats for any of these basic frames. Has anyone weighted their bare frame from recent years and can give accurate figures?
> 
> Joe, can you also confirm the OSBB shell width on the 2014 base model Tarmac - is it still 61mm wide like the previous Tarmacs' or did it revert to 68mm?


Hey there,

I don't know why we decided to only call out 8r on those bikes. The 2011-2013 base models are all the same, except for one thing. The 2013 has our OSBB shell and the '11-'12 base models had a threaded BB shell. 

In 2014 we brought the SL4 down thru the whole Tarmac line with the 9r layup. 
-The SL4 has generally larger tube diameters than the SL2.
-The SL4 is much stiffer torsionally and in the rear triangle than the SL2.
-The SL4 base frame is a little lighter than the SL2, probably 30-40g on average.

The OSBB shell on the SL4 is 61mm wide. With either our plastic or alloy BB cups and the bearings installed, the bearings are positioned like a BB30 system.

Hope that all helps!


----------



## MaxSE

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I don't know why we decided to only call out 8r on those bikes. The 2011-2013 base models are all the same, except for one thing. The 2013 has our OSBB shell and the '11-'12 base models had a threaded BB shell.
> 
> In 2014 we brought the SL4 down thru the whole Tarmac line with the 9r layup.
> -The SL4 has generally larger tube diameters than the SL2.
> -The SL4 is much stiffer torsionally and in the rear triangle than the SL2.
> -The SL4 base frame is a little lighter than the SL2, probably 30-40g on average.
> 
> The OSBB shell on the SL4 is 61mm wide. With either our plastic or alloy BB cups and the bearings installed, the bearings are positioned like a BB30 system.
> 
> Hope that all helps!


Joe, that' very helpful, many thanks. I did not realise the 11/12/13 frames were unchanged - it that everything? So, same mould, lay up, tube shape etc?

And just to double check (BB is important to me!) - the threaded BB was still used *throughout* '12? Was there maybe a running change in '12 (to OSBB) as I think a Spec' rep told me this?


----------



## Stumpjumper FSR

Specialized_Joe said:


> We are good friends with SRAM actually! We just decided to go with more Shimano stuff this year partially based off feedback from our riders and dealers.
> 
> Thanks for the other feedback as well. Enjoy the new bike; I'm glad you got something sorted out!


Here's some feedback from one of your consumers, I'd like to buy an S-Works Roubaix Red.


----------



## darwinosx

Everything going SL 4 is what made me buy a 2014 Roubaix. I found the previous mix of frames to be confusing and some of them did not ride well as they were flexy to me.


----------



## Petsah

wrshultz said:


> Joe,
> 
> Any luck getting some pics of fenders mounted on a Diverge?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill


Great thread!
Though I still can´t figure out how the fenders mount at the front fork crown, seat stay yoke and bottom bracket area on the Diverge carbon models. There seem to be a small bolt in the seat stay yoke screwed in upwards (restricting clearance?). But the front fork doesn´t seem to have any hole or bolt in the crown area (upward bolt here to?). And I can´t see any bolt at the bottom bracket either.
This is from what I can gather from the pictures on the web. One of the Diverge´s selling points seem to be fender mounts, so why no info? They only show and talk about the "plug and play" holes at the dropouts.
Anyone got some info on this?

Thank´s / Peter


----------



## kt22mike

I have a question on a 2011 Secteur frame regarding BB size. I was able to buy a used Secteur frame without components and want to either install a Sram Force 22 or Shimano 6800 component group. 

I looked at the specs that are in the Specialized model archive but there is no information regarding the frames BB size and whether it is english or italian treads.

*Specialized Bicycle Components*

1. Can you provide me more information regarding the BB size and thread that I need to buy to work on this frame? 

2. Will the Ultegra 6800 BBR-60 work without adapters?

*Shimano Ultegra SM-BBR60 Bottom Bracket Cups at BikeTiresDirect*


3. Or is it easier to use the Force 22 BB30 and the Force 22 component set?

*https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-force-bb#specs*

Trying to build my first bike and while I know I can go to my LBS I would really like to figure this out and install on my own.


----------



## PJ352

kt22mike said:


> I have a question on a 2011 Secteur frame regarding BB size. I was able to buy a used Secteur frame without components and want to either install a Sram Force 22 or Shimano 6800 component group.
> 
> I looked at the specs that are in the Specialized model archive but there is no information regarding the frames BB size and whether it is english or italian treads.
> 
> *Specialized Bicycle Components*
> 
> 1. Can you provide me more information regarding the BB size and thread that I need to buy to work on this frame?
> 
> 2. Will the Ultegra 6800 BBR-60 work without adapters?
> 
> *Shimano Ultegra SM-BBR60 Bottom Bracket Cups at BikeTiresDirect*
> 
> 
> 3. Or is it easier to use the Force 22 BB30 and the Force 22 component set?
> 
> *https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-force-bb#specs*
> 
> Trying to build my first bike and while I know I can go to my LBS I would really like to figure this out and install on my own.


Go to the link below and you'll find the specs for your BB listed first (ISO/English or BSA). 

You can't use BB30 cranksets, so if you decide to go with Force 22 you have to get the GXP model. And yes, the Ultegra 6800 BBR-60 will work without adapters. For either, get the BSA (English thread) version.

Bottom bracket - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## SteveOz1

I have a question about an older frame I picked up - it's a Specialized Roubaix Expert 2008 with no fork - I just realized that where the lower bearing should seat in the headtube is much higher (deeper?) than a normal integrated headset - how do I install an aftermarket fork into this frame? Thank you...


----------



## kt22mike

thanks for the great information...


----------



## mpower13

Specialized_J,

Do you have the sizing chart recommendation for the new 2015 S-Works Tarmac? I am 5'7" (170cm) with 30" inseam and torn between a 52cm and a 54cm. New Tarmac has shorter seat tubes now for all sizes and I thought of going for a 54cm. Please advise.


----------



## Arnoud

The shorter seat tube will give you more exposure of your saddle post, which will give more flex and more comfort, hence the reason of the shorter seat tube.


----------



## dton13

Joe,

I'm looking for some replacement fender mounts/eyelets for a 2014 Roubaix (the ones that have an M4 thread into the frame and take an M5 for standard fender bolts). They are extremely hard to track down and my LBS is having trouble finding them even after multiple phone calls to Specialized. Can you help me in anyway?


----------



## tom_h

*Direct mount brake calipers ?*

Old thread, but adding my 2¢ ...

Very nice to have feature on the Tarmac (Sworks & others): direct mount brake calipers, an evolutionary improvement

Reviews on this design seems very good, especially the Shimano calipers. FSA & Trek/Bontrager are other suppliers, and hoping Campy has them for 2016 model year.

Personally, I have less-than-zero interest in disc brakes, you'd have to pay me to use them, and then I still might not want to. For racing, there is virtually no benefit , but there are some significant negatives.


----------



## drfrogsplat

Specialized_Joe said:


> Ultimately, to answer your question...
> Yes, its acceptable to put a rear rack on there. But the bike will handle much better with a front rack than rear. Hopefully that helps!


Might be a bit late to the party on this one, but what's the reason for better handling with a front rack?

Is this specific to the Diverge (and/or similar geometry bikes)? Or is this a general rule? I've always thought the back rack made more sense because you'd have less weight to move around when steering...?

Are there problems with loading up the rear of the Diverges? (manual says 55lb/25kg max cargo on all 3 frames, but doesn't really talk about distribution front/rear)


----------



## Merc

Specialized_Joe said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm part of the bike development team at Specialized and am here to talk about our road bikes and associated products. Let me know if you have any feedback or questions about the bikes. I'm here to help!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> EDIT:
> If you have a new question, its much easier for me to find and answer if you select "Reply to Thread" instead of just replying to someone else's post. Otherwise I'm liable to miss your question all together. Thanks!


Specialized Joe,
I need your help. I am missing the cable housing guide hats on both sides of the down tube and by the rear derailleur on my SW Tarmac SL4. I also need the brake ICR stop (on the top tube by the seat post). I am converting my frame to di2 I will need two split grommets (1 for the downtube and 1 for the wire that will be used by the rear derailleur) I will also need one plug for the downtube. 



Do you know where I can find these parts online? I have searched this forum and only have found discussions for the Venge, not the Tarmac SL4. 

I have contacted my local Specialized dealers and they cannot help me.


----------



## gekco

*Difference in width?*



Specialized_Joe said:


> Good question,
> Both the Smartweld and Carbon Diverge do have clearance for 35c tires. There is less room between the tire and seat tube on the Smartweld version but it still clears just fine.


I have rode Diverge Smartweld with 35c Schwalbe Marathon Winter studded tires and a seatpost fender this winter. I got some "wear" on the inside of the chainstay on one side. So it's tight. May consider a 30mm rear studded next winter... In front, no problem!
Is the clearance the same on the carbon frame, or is it slightly more?


----------



## Dave Try

*Di2 grommets/cable stops on sworks sl4 tarmac*

Hi Joe

I'm in the process of upgrading the groupset on my sworks tarmac sl4 from mechanical sram to dura ace di2.

Can you tell me if there is a conversion kit available which contains the various rubber guides, split plugs and bottom bracket cover for this job? I've trawled the internet with limited success and my lbs weren't able to get anyone from specialized on the phone when I visited them and I'm not in a position to keep going back for them to call up each day.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Dave


----------



## Dave Try

deleted: double post


----------



## kevra83

Hi Joe - Specialized Rep. Anyways, any idea on when the new 2016 Specialized Allez Smartweld framesets or bikes will be released? I'm guessing they'll be released with all the other specialized road bikes. I'm asking because I'd like to pick one up fast and swap my groupset, wheels, etc.. over from my 2012 allez evo frame. Plus, I heard a local bike shop here where I live got the new 2016 Specialized Roubaix before it got a full product release? I've also heard that all the Specialized Allez's are going smartweld for 2016. I hate to make you leak out all the info before it hits the specialized conference / show. Plus, the thru-axle set up is going on pretty much the pro framesets and up for next year too it seems like. You could look at my album to see how much money I've dumped into my Allez. Lol...


----------



## nick779

Specialized_Joe said:


> snip


Do you know if the Axis Classic Wheelset on a '15 Allez Sport will take a 10 or 11sp cassette? 


Tossing around the idea of going 105.


Edit: found a few old posts from different threads, I found this part number suggested: S142100004


Is this compatible with my hub?

Edit: I cant post anything on the "helpdesk" on Speccy's site


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## kt22mike

I have a 2006 S-works and wondering if the Zert Inserts wear out (25,000 miles on frame) and if so can they be replaced?


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## SpeedNeeder

*SL2 rim width*

What is the widest rim I can use on an SL2?


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## tom_h

SpeedNeeder said:


> What is the widest rim I can use on an SL2?


Hard to give an absolute number, because many rim nowadays have a bulbous cross-section, and the brake track is not necessarily the widest part of a rim.

From personal experience, a Zipp 303 Firecrest is too wide to safely fit. There is only about 3mm clearance from widest part of rim, to chainstays.
I don't feel comfortable unless there is at least 5-6 mm clearance -- else an out of true or flexing wheel can lead to disaster.
The newer Tarmacs will easily & safely fit a Zipp 303

Another example, a typical 25mm tire is inconvenient on the rear wheel of an SL2. Removing the wheel, requires a pretty hard shove forward to remove it, because the tire prematurely contacts the bottom bracket housing, and wheel axle won't quite be free of the frame lugs. However, there's plenty of clearance from safety aspect.

Always best to do a trial fit, whenever possible.


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