# Newbie looking for advice



## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

Hi there! 
A little about myself, I'm a runner looking for some cross training so I started swimming again, and from there I decided to start cycling and +/- training for a triathlon. Problem number one other than your usual cheap-o Walmart bike I've never really owned a bike before, and I'm not 100% sure I'll be able to handle cycling so I decided to buy a lightly used road bike off of Craigslist for $90. It is a Dawes Sheila 24 Speed Women's Road Bike ( full specs are here ----> Road Bikes - Dawes Sheila Women Specific Road Bike I honestly don't understand most of it) and has a 24 speed with Shimano drivetrain. From what my LBS says it is the right size for me. I've ridden it a bit already, and the gears shift quickly and smoothly, in fact the ride is pretty smooth. 
Essentially what I want to know is:
1. What do I need to do that's considered regular maintenance? I know grease the chain but what kind, how often etc.

2. There is a little rust on the bike, how would I get it off? Or is it something you just ignore? (see attached pictures) 

3. What should I actually invest it? I'm a college student and therefore I am broke. The bike came with 2 spare tubes, a CO2 cartridge, tire changing kit, and a small saddle bag. I did not get the CO2 converter thing, and I don't have a tire repair kit, or multi-tool. I saw online that there are some multi-tools that actually have the CO2 converter built in, any thoughts?

4. Is there anything important that I'm missing?

here are some pictures:













































Thank you so much in advance I really appreciate it!!


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## Red90 (Apr 2, 2013)

Instead of the co2 converter which will rely on the canisters to get air, I would suggest that you get a pump. I would also think the mulitool is essential as well, although I've gotten away with just using my set of hex tools.

I think first and foremost is learning how to change your tube as you will get a flat and you'll have to do it out on the road somewhere. Look it up on youtube, there are plenty of videos that show you how to do that.

In terms of maintenance, check youtube for adjusting brakes and deraileurs. It's not that hard once you learn how the mechanisms work. The multi-tool will allow you to do the majority of adjustments.

Most LBS will sell mulit-purpose lubes that you can use on your chain. I tend to just get a rag and wipe off all the crud off my chains gears every so often and re-lube the chain. The gears will wear out much faster when you have a lot of grit on your chains.

The shifting really doesn't need much adjustment until you start feeling like it doesn't shift well. If you change gears and it doesn't want to go to the next gear or is taking a while, then make some adjustments.

The brakes just need to be adjusted to clamp to the wheel evenly and you'll need to tighten the cable as the brake pad wears.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

See if any local bike shops hold "bike maintenance classes", usually a couple hours' long. Maybe your college has a bike club or team. Attend a meeting or club ride and ask their advice.

Don't GREASE the chain; OIL the chain. Every couple hundred miles; more often if the bike is left out in the rain. See youtube, your local bike shop, or search this and other forums for different approaches to oiling a chain. Check your tire pressure once a week. If you actually squeeze your tires before every ride you'll get a good feel when the pressure is starting to drop. The rest of the bike is surprisingly maintenance-free.

Buy yourself a good maintenance manual. Lennard Zinn's book is excellent for beginners and even has a section recommending what tools to carry on your bike. Remember; even if you don't know how to use them at least some passing cyclist will see you made an effort to be prepared and will be more apt and able to help you if you're stranded. The learning of how to make roadside repairs just comes with time.

If you live on campus and the bike is used for local travel, then invest in a GOOD lock. Way too many bikes are stolen from college campuses. Or, buy a P.O.S. bike for tooling around.

I'd recommend against the CO2 inflator. Your bike's frame looks like it will accommodate a FULL SIZE pump under the top tube. Bring the bike to a local shop and have them fit a proper pump under there. A full size pump ALWAYS works, whereas if your CO2 cartridges fail or you use them improperly, you could be S.O.L. on the road. Also, a full size pump puts out vastly more air than the minipumps which are in vogue, only because most modern high end frames lack the ability to carry a full size pump.

That Dawes frame and most of the components are aluminum, so rust should not be too much of a concern. If you could tell us where exactly you see the rust we might be of more help.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Do you really need those spacers under the stem and the stem flipped up? The bike just looks out of whack. You should get it fitted to you by a competent person. Level that saddle too.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

1. I wipe my chain with a dry rag after every ride and oil it when it gets noisy. Which lubricant is a topic of shockingly heated debate. Whatever's most popular at your local shop would be fine.

2. Your pictures downloaded at super-low resolution. Where did you see rust?

3. I'm confused about what you do and don't have. I don't like to leave the house without being able to change a flat, make a minor adjustment, and fix a broken chain. I take spare tubes with me - I don't do a great job patching them in the field. I use a pump. I don't get flats that often and people sometimes have problems with the CO2 canisters, so I'd want a pump as backup anyway; it seems silly to have that level of redundancy.

I also have a floor pump with a gauge at home. I have "my" tire pressure for each bike, and that lets me inflate to the same pressure each time. It's also a lot easier to hit the high pressures that get difficult or at least tedious with a hand pump.

Good cycling shorts are really nice to have. Helmet, of course. I always wear gloves too. I also always wear a cycling jersey and shoes, but I think those are more negotiable.


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

Sorry about the pictures, there is a little rust on the outside of the chain and on some of the nuts and bolts near the brakes. It seems to be only surface rust though. My boyfriend had a hand pump laying around that actually fits my frame quite nicely so happy to say that's checked off. I'm going to order the book off amazon as a reference for sure as well. thanks again!


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

I know this sounds stupid sorry. It came with the spacers in there and I googled how to remove them but how many should I remove? I can't seem to find the answer to that question. And I think I managed to level the saddle properly. I'm going to go into my LBS and see what they say and hopefully get out of there without paying the $100 fitting price...


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

1. Thanks for the chain advice, I live in south Florida and it's rainy season so I'll ask the LBS. 
2. There is a little rust on the outside of the chain and a little on the nuts and bolts near the breaks, but I think it's just surface rust. 
3. I have 2 spare tubes, tire lever, and a now newly acquired hand pump that fits my frame. The bike also came with a CO2 cartridge but from what I'm reading here I'll stick to the hand pump. 
Also, you mentioned each bike has a tire pressure, what isa good tire pressure? When I squeeze my tires they feel very very full, firm, but with about 1/8'' - 1/4'' of give (not sure of the exact pressure).
I am getting the helmet tomorrow. Why the gloves? Also, can I get away with spandex shorts and a tang top for now?


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

I've started playing around with taking the tires on and off and changing the tubes. youtube has a bunch of awesome videos thank you for the advice!


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

pasdonahue said:


> I know this sounds stupid sorry. It came with the spacers in there and I googled how to remove them but how many should I remove? I can't seem to find the answer to that question. And I think I managed to level the saddle properly. I'm going to go into my LBS and see what they say and hopefully get out of there without paying the $100 fitting price...


Leave them be till you talk to the LBS. What they'll ask is if you feel comfortable with them, or do you feel like the bars are too high? Even if they do feel high, don't mess with them till you either receive and read your copy of Zinn's, or you decide to pay the LBS to remove them for you. I say that cause if you do it wrong you'll mess up your steering, and possibly set yourself up for injury. You'll find that most of the adjustments and maintenance for your bike are fairly easy with a little time and the proper tools (most of which can be had for little $), just don't rush into it until you've had a chance to read/research what you're doing.


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

Thank you for the advice. I'm going to get my copy of Zinn's tomorrow and probably go to my LBS. the closet one if Bike America. ANy opinion of those guys?


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

I've never dealt with them, they aren't in my neck of the woods. My own personal test is simple though. Go in and first check to see how busy they are, if not very, then wait till they deal with other customers to watch their manner. When you ask your questions, if they answer your questions with "buy this and that", leave. If they try to confuse you with a lot of technical jargon, leave. If they're more interested in your wallet than fixing your problems, be polite, but leave. Best thing to do when you go in, be honest and straight forward, explaining why you bought that bike, what kind of riding you want to do, and how much you can afford to spend on this. My experience (only a couple of years, but good ones) is if that shop is any good, you'll find out within 10 minutes. What ever you do though, don't leave out information they will need from embarrassment over being new to the sport. Everybody starts somewhere and anybody who wants to be snooty because you're a 'noob' can and should take a flying leap.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

pasdonahue said:


> 1. Thanks for the chain advice, I live in south Florida and it's rainy season so I'll ask the LBS.


Have a read at my chain cleaning & lubrication info on my website.




> I have 2 spare tubes, tire lever, and a now newly acquired hand pump that fits my frame. The bike also came with a CO2 cartridge but from what I'm reading here I'll stick to the hand pump.
> Also, you mentioned each bike has a tire pressure, what isa good tire pressure? When I squeeze my tires they feel very very full, firm, but with about 1/8'' - 1/4'' of give (not sure of the exact pressure).


Learn how to replace tubes before you get a flat tire out on the road. That's not the place to learn.
Tire pressures - what width are the tires? 23 or 25mm? What do you weigh? 80f/90r would be a good place to start but give us the info.



> Why the gloves?


Two good reasons - 1) To give cushion for holding the handlebars; to reduce shock. 2) In a crash the first thing to hit the road will be the palm of your hand. You do NOT want road rash there with embedded grit and dirt. Ever. Never ride without gloves.


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

junior1210 said:


> I've never dealt with them, they aren't in my neck of the woods. My own personal test is simple though. Go in and first check to see how busy they are, if not very, then wait till they deal with other customers to watch their manner. When you ask your questions, if they answer your questions with "buy this and that", leave. If they try to confuse you with a lot of technical jargon, leave. If they're more interested in your wallet than fixing your problems, be polite, but leave. Best thing to do when you go in, be honest and straight forward, explaining why you bought that bike, what kind of riding you want to do, and how much you can afford to spend on this. My experience (only a couple of years, but good ones) is if that shop is any good, you'll find out within 10 minutes. What ever you do though, don't leave out information they will need from embarrassment over being new to the sport. Everybody starts somewhere and anybody who wants to be snooty because you're a 'noob' can and should take a flying leap.


Thanks that's really helpful.


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## pasdonahue (Oct 2, 2013)

I think they are 25mm width from what the box says. ( its a little odd because the box says 20-25) I weigh about 110 varying 2 pounds here and there. 

Got it I'll get some gloves


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