# Sticky  Ask FELT!



## wpcouch

Have a tech question regarding your Felt? Not sure if a certain part will be compatible? Just have a general question about your bike or Felt? 

Here's your chance to get answers from the source! Ask away!


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## dbf73

good thread - I've started a couple of threads with questions (and received helpful answers) but this centralized thread should be the place from here on

thanks


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## Johnpembo73

Hi Wpcouch,

Is there a way to get the accessories and clothing delivered to the UK either through my company or by private sale.
I would love these bottles and cages to match my lovely Felt bike.
Best regards

John


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## wpcouch

Hi John,

I assume you mean via the US website? Since we are the US distributor, we are only able to ship product to US addresses. In order to get P/A in the UK you would need to order via our UK distributor. Here is their contact info:

Saddleback Ltd. 
Unit 10, 
Easter Court, 
Woodward Avenue, 
Yate,
Bristol, BS37 5YS 
UK 

Phone: +44 1454 285285
Fax: +44 1454 285286

Email: [email protected] 
Web: Felt Bicycles


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## rmaurer

*FC 58cm di2 harness?*

Here's one for you...I just ordered a 2012 FC frameset in the 58cm size. Which Di2 harness will I need?

Thanks,
Ralph



wpcouch said:


> Have a tech question regarding your Felt? Not sure if a certain part will be compatible? Just have a general question about your bike or Felt?
> 
> Here's your chance to get answers from the source! Ask away!


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## wpcouch

If run externally, you will need Shim part number 7970-Di2, front wiring harness, and I would get the large size rear harness for a 58cm frame. EW-7970L  

For internal routing, choose rear harness IEW7975. This is the better option, as the FC is internal compatible for 2012


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## wpcouch

Or, if you prefer the Ultegra Di2 route:

Front harness: SM-67-A-E
Internal rear harness: EW-SD50-I


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## rmaurer

Just the plain W7975? Or, one of the A1, A2 variants?



wpcouch said:


> For internal routing, choose rear harness IEW7975. This is the better option, as the FC is internal compatible for 2012


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## Superdave3T

rmaurer said:


> Just the plain W7975? Or, one of the A1, A2 variants?


SPEC.	BATTERY HOLDER	JUNCT ION CORD (JCT-JCT2)	FD CORD (FD-FD3) RD CORD (RD-RD3)	BT CORD (BR-BR3)
If you want to run the battery on the non-drive chainstay, use 

IEW7975A1

EW-7975A-1 Short size battery mount Internal 400mm

If you'd prefer to run an internal battery like the Icarus or clamp it to the outside of the seatpost like our F2x and DA Di2 seatpost option use:
IEW7975A2

EW-7975A-2 Short size battery mount Internal 1010mm



The Shimano Tech Doc page is quite helpful for determining the Di2 set up and of course a Felt Dealer with experience running Di2 on our frames.

-SD


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## Nevermiss

Wow. This is great. I want to get a 3 speed Claire type cruiser for my 9 year-old daughter, but here's the catch. I want a plain unpainted bike.....like the Felt Cruiser Frame is offered.

My daughter is an aspiring artist and she would love to paint her own design on the bike.

Any chance I can order a bike in the raw....or do I need to get a bike and have it stripped?

Thanks! BTW....my new DA3 is at the shop being built as we speak and I'm going into get fit first thing tomorrow AM. My first Felt!!!


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## wpcouch

Nevermiss-

Currently the only unpainted option we have available is the Canvas Cruiser, so that would be your best option. Please be aware that stripping and repainting the Claire, or any of our painted bikes, will void the manufacturer's warranty.

Congrats on the DA3! I'm sure you will love it!


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## Nevermiss

wpcouch said:


> Nevermiss-
> 
> Currently the only unpainted option we have available is the Canvas Cruiser, so that would be your best option. Please be aware that stripping and repainting the Claire, or any of our painted bikes, will void the manufacturer's warranty.
> 
> Congrats on the DA3! I'm sure you will love it!


Thanks wpcouch! I had a feeling that would be the case. I think the style/geometry of the Claire is much better suited for a 9 year-old girl, so I think I'll get her the Claire and if she wants to paint it....then I'll go from from there. I feel much more comfortable voiding the warranty on the Claire than on my DA3!

However....I also plan to get a Canvas Cruiser for me and I can just let her paint my bike if she wants!

We'll be a 3 Felt family by Christmas.


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## wotnoshoeseh

I have a 2011 F4 with the standard double gearing (53/39) crankset. Two questions:-
1. Can I simply change the rings on the crankset to 50/34 (compact gearing), or do I need to buy a new crakset?, and,
2. If I make that change will I need to modify chain length or use different rear derailleur?

Thanks,
Damian.


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## Superdave3T

wotnoshoeseh said:


> I have a 2011 F4 with the standard double gearing (53/39) crankset. Two questions:-
> 1. Can I simply change the rings on the crankset to 50/34 (compact gearing), or do I need to buy a new crakset?, and,
> 2. If I make that change will I need to modify chain length or use different rear derailleur?
> 
> Thanks,
> Damian.


Damian,
Thank you for your business, the F4 is a great machine, a workhorse in the F-series line. The standard 53/39t crankset uses a 130mm bolt circle diameter (B.C.D.) This size only allows for chainrings down to 38t, any smaller and the attachement bolts will interfere with the chain/ring interface. If you want to swap to compact gearing you'll need at least, the drive side crank arm and chainrings. You don't need a complete new crankset with bottom bracket and the left crank arm although it may be difficult to source just the drive side. The "compact" on the 50/34t crankset refers not just to the smaller rings but also the B.C.D. which is 110mm on the Shimano Ultegra cranks.
If the only change you make is to go to 50-34t then you'll also want to shorten the chain.

One option you might consider is a new cassette. The stock 11-25t cassette could be changed to a 12-28t or 11-28t and Shimano recently introduced a 12-30t option as well. Techically speaking the 30t exceeds the current "28t max" cog size on the Ultegra RD but it remains within the published capacity. It might be worth a try at your locall Felt Dealer to verify the function with a 12-30t cassette. That would be the most affordable alternative to get a lower gear range.

One change you'll see on Felt's 2012 models is the use of "performance compact" gearing with more models using the 52/36t chainring size on compact 110mm BCD. This has proven more versatile for many of our consumers. This option will be found on many 2012 Felt models and you'll see it being used from more brands in the industry in 2013.

-SD


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## lastingxcauses

Question: I am planning to purchase a Felt F75 within the U.S. What colors are available for this model? Ive seen matte black & gloss white, Black & dark blue, lighter blue & white... Also the model posted on the website is that a 2011 or 2012? thanks


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## Johnpembo73

Hello SD,

Did you receive my emails I sent directly to you at your felt address? Hopefully you can help / reply?

All the best

John


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## Superdave3T

lastingxcauses said:


> Question: I am planning to purchase a Felt F75 within the U.S. What colors are available for this model? Ive seen matte black & gloss white, Black & dark blue, lighter blue & white... Also the model posted on the website is that a 2011 or 2012? thanks


If you are buying in the USA you'll get the F75 with the 2-tone paint job using Matte Black with Gloss White along the top tube. It is pictured here on our 2012 website.

F75 Road Bike - Felt Bicycles

There are 3 different color options offered globally with each Felt distributor selecting the colors that suit their country/markets best.

-SD


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## Superdave3T

Johnpembo73 said:


> Hello SD,
> 
> Did you receive my emails I sent directly to you at your felt address? Hopefully you can help / reply?
> 
> All the best
> 
> John


Yes, I'm working on the solution at this moment. Thanks for your patience.

-SD


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## Johnpembo73

Cheers SD:thumbsup:


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## brabus

SD

great thanks


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## wotnoshoeseh

Thanks SD.
We had the Felt truck at my local dealer here last weekend, and got a chance to preview the new 2012 models. Very nice.


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## tmb

*F65x*

Waiting to hear when the F65x will ship, the last my lbs heard was after New Year's. Any updated info?

Is that a 110 or 130 bolt pattern crankset?

Weights for complete bike available yet?

Thanks
T


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## Waloupis

*Colors of an '08 F75?*

Hello all,

I am looking at a used Felt F75. It looks to be in excellent condition. The color scheme is the matte black, white lettering and yellow trim. I know colors vary from year to year. He says it's an '08' but I can't find pics of an '08 to try and confirm the model year. Thanks, Bill


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## JogBike

Waloupis said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am looking at a used Felt F75. It looks to be in excellent condition. The color scheme is the matte black, white lettering and yellow trim. I know colors vary from year to year. He says it's an '08' but I can't find pics of an '08 to try and confirm the model year. Thanks, Bill


Go to www.bikepedia.com. The photo of the 2007 Felt F75 matches your description. Specifically, BikePedia - 2007 Felt F75 Complete Bicycle . Scroll to bottom of that page to see OEM specs.


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## Superdave3T

tmb said:


> Waiting to hear when the F65x will ship, the last my lbs heard was after New Year's. Any updated info?
> 
> Is that a 110 or 130 bolt pattern crankset?
> 
> Weights for complete bike available yet?
> 
> Thanks
> T


The F65x (and all SRAM 'Cross cranks) used 130mm B.C.D. Now (2013 model year) we've been able to get them to make 46t x 36t 110mm BCD rings + BB30 cranks. F65x now uses this custom crankset exclusively created for Felt.
-SD


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## simonaway427

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The F65x (and all SRAM 'Cross cranks) use 130mm B.C.D.
> -SD


Interesting. Most cross specific cranks are 46/36. You said above that a 130 BCD can only go down to a 38T.

Something special about SRAM?


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## tmb

Thanks for the reply Dave.

Simon-
Felt's website lists the F65x w/ a S300 BB30, 46/38t. What I find odd is Sram's lack of detail about the S300, no tech info at all and only one pic. And that pic shows a 50/34t 110bcd.


Don't even have the bike yet and I'm already researching upgrades. It's a sickness, I tell ya!

T


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## sherlock

I think the S300 is one of their "OEM only" parts. That is, it's for manufacturer's to spec as they wish.


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## tmb

Yet they list tech info on the S900 and S500. It's not a huge deal, I just found it odd.


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## theburrills

*Parts on the Felt Website...*

Was looking to upgrade to some DEVOX carbon handlebars after the holidays and I am not seeing to much DEVOX parts at all on there will more be coming soon? Also, how does felt measure handlebars, is it center to center? Thank you!

Derek
Suffolk, VA


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## Dray3573

*Yea, DEVOX Parts!!*

I'm wondering the same thing. When can we see some Devox parts, or are they no longer? I have the stem and bars, and would love a seatpost option to complete the look.


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## jasonandrew76

My LBS told me to bring my new ride (Z4) in for a checkup to tighten things up after 500 miles. Ive got about 700 miles on her and everything is still perfect. Shifting, braking, everything is spot on. I take meticulous care of her between rides so it looks as new as the day I brought her home. So my question is is it really a necessity to go see my LBS already? Ive got free maintenance for the first year so that gives me until next October.


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## wpcouch

theburrills said:


> Was looking to upgrade to some DEVOX carbon handlebars after the holidays and I am not seeing to much DEVOX parts at all on there will more be coming soon? Also, how does felt measure handlebars, is it center to center? Thank you!
> 
> Derek
> Suffolk, VA


Our road handlebars are measured C-C.

I don't have any info on when we might be seeing new Devox parts. I'll look into it and post what I can in the near future.


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## wpcouch

jasonandrew76 said:


> My LBS told me to bring my new ride (Z4) in for a checkup to tighten things up after 500 miles. Ive got about 700 miles on her and everything is still perfect. Shifting, braking, everything is spot on. I take meticulous care of her between rides so it looks as new as the day I brought her home. So my question is is it really a necessity to go see my LBS already? Ive got free maintenance for the first year so that gives me until next October.


Most LBS's will use 500 miles or 30 days as a general guideline. If you don't feel that your bike needs it yet, there should be no problem in waiting, especially if your LBS provides you with 1 yr free service. 

On the other hand, it's FREE service, so it can't hurt. Also, it should be noted that shops will generally check things during a tune-up that you may not notice or feel while riding and/or cleaning your bike. 

That said, routine and thorough cleaning is one of, if not the, best preventative measure you can take to keep the bike running smoothly and properly.


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## lesurfman

*Z5 adjustable stem question*

I am the proud owner of a 2011 Z5 and totally love this bike!

I was playing with the adjustable stem but can't figure out how to make all the 3 available angles. (+/- 5, 10, 15 deg)

The stem was setup at 15 deg. from the LBS 

I understand that turning the sleeve half a turn will bring it down to 5 deg but how am I supposed to adjust for 10 deg?

TIA


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## JogBike

Deleted by JogBike.


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## Superdave3T

lesurfman said:


> I am the proud owner of a 2011 Z5 and totally love this bike!
> 
> I was playing with the adjustable stem but can't figure out how to make all the 3 available angles. (+/- 5, 10, 15 deg)
> 
> The stem was setup at 15 deg. from the LBS
> 
> I understand that turning the sleeve half a turn will bring it down to 5 deg but how am I supposed to adjust for 10 deg?
> 
> TIA


There is a shim available without an eccentric that simply reduces the inner I.D. to 28.6mm. Of course you've got the headset spacers below the stem to adjust the bar position also.

-SD


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## lesurfman

SuperdaveFelt said:


> There is a shim available without an eccentric that simply reduces the inner I.D. to 28.6mm. Of course you've got the headset spacers below the stem to adjust the bar position also.
> 
> -SD


Thanks SuperDave, Does the straight reducer supposed to come with the bike?
I only have the eccentric one installed on the bike.

Another question, Is the Z5 seat post compatible with FIZIK 7x9 carbon rail seat?


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## tmb

*Ship date??*

Still trying to get a concrete ship date for the F65x cx bike? All my lbs could get was "January".

Anyone?
Bueller?


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## simonaway427

Wondering if you could provide the specs on the wheel set that came on my F75x

CXR3 cross wheels. I can't seem to find much info beyond the commonly published specs.

Specifically I'm looking for weight and rim width. Thanks!


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## Superdave3T

The complete wheelset weight will vary as there is a 2-3% tolerance on spoke mass and ~10% on rims. The best way to get an accurate weight on the wheels is to weigh the pair that came with the bike as it is unlikely that the pair I'd dig up would be exactly the same weight.

The rims are advertised at 450g. They are 23.0mm wide at the braking surface and 18.6mm on the bead seat. They are optimized for 28-33mm tires to provide a stable platform for the tire to roll at lower pressures. They are made from 6061 aluminum and use a CNC machined sidewall after rolling for precise parallel and flat braking surface. The braking surface height was also increased so larger cantilever and linear-pull brake pads can fully contact the rim's surface, something many off-the-shelf road wheels lack.

View attachment 248425


Was there anything else you wanted to know about the wheels?

-SD


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## jasonandrew76

I have a seatpost question. Ive got a 2012 Z4, and I love it btw. I am a bit concerned about my seatpost having some flex in it. Im about 6'4", 220 lbs. Im only about an inch or so from being at the minimum insert line on the seatpost. Coming from a tri bike with a big thick aero post with zero flex im just a little worried someday my seatpost is going to snap. Im not talking a lot of flex here, but there is a little. I know its due to the more relaxed geometry and the angle of insertion of the seatpost combined with the height i need the seatpost to be for my size. I have moved my seat forward a little on the rails to maybe help take some of the load off the post. Am i freaking out on this one? Im also worried about damaging the frame where the post goes in...Let me know..Thanks!!


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## Superdave3T

jasonandrew76 said:


> I have a seatpost question. Ive got a 2012 Z4, and I love it btw. I am a bit concerned about my seatpost having some flex in it. Im about 6'4", 220 lbs. Im only about an inch or so from being at the minimum insert line on the seatpost. Coming from a tri bike with a big thick aero post with zero flex im just a little worried someday my seatpost is going to snap. Im not talking a lot of flex here, but there is a little. I know its due to the more relaxed geometry and the angle of insertion of the seatpost combined with the height i need the seatpost to be for my size. I have moved my seat forward a little on the rails to maybe help take some of the load off the post. Am i freaking out on this one? Im also worried about damaging the frame where the post goes in...Let me know..Thanks!!


What you are experiencing is part of the design intent of the Z-series line which puts ride quality atop the objectives. The sloping top tube and greater exposed 27.2mm diameter seatpost creates more vertical compliance without adding flex to the frame for power transmission. Integrated, aero, and oversize (31.6-32.4mm) seatposts do not offer this same level of cockpit compliance. Some seatposts flex less than others and the Z series posts are tuned to increase the ride comfort. A few brands like Syntace and Canyon actually make different stiffnesses in the seatpost they offer. 

If you want a stiffer ride, an aluminum seatpost such as a Thomson, Ritchey or FSA might be an option for you. Other brands like MOOTS might provide even more give with their titanium construction.

Regards,
-SD


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## jasonandrew76

SuperdaveFelt said:


> What you are experiencing is part of the design intent of the Z-series line which puts ride quality atop the objectives. The sloping top tube and greater exposed 27.2mm diameter seatpost creates more vertical compliance without adding flex to the frame for power transmission. Integrated, aero, and oversize (31.6-32.4mm) seatposts do not offer this same level of cockpit compliance. Some seatposts flex less than others and the Z series posts are tuned to increase the ride comfort. A few brands like Syntace and Canyon actually make different stiffnesses in the seatpost they offer.
> 
> If you want a stiffer ride, an aluminum seatpost such as a Thomson, Ritchey or FSA might be an option for you. Other brands like MOOTS might provide even more give with their titanium construction.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Thanks for the reply SD!! My biggest concern was simply from a safety perspective being that i was only an inch or so from the minimum insert line and i am a clydesdale . I know the flex helps with eating up the road vibration and giving me a smooth ride which i totally love and dont want to trade for anything. I guess I was just looking for some peace of mind that im safe


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## simonaway427

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The complete wheelset weight will vary as there is a 2-3% tolerance on spoke mass and ~10% on rims. The best way to get an accurate weight on the wheels is to weigh the pair that came with the bike as it is unlikely that the pair I'd dig up would be exactly the same weight.
> 
> The rims are advertised at 450g. They are 23.0mm wide at the braking surface and 18.6mm on the bead seat. They are optimized for 28-33mm tires to provide a stable platform for the tire to roll at lower pressures. They are made from 6061 aluminum and use a CNC machined sidewall after rolling for precise parallel and flat braking surface. The braking surface height was also increased so larger cantilever and linear-pull brake pads can fully contact the rim's surface, something many off-the-shelf road wheels lack.
> 
> View attachment 248425
> 
> 
> Was there anything else you wanted to know about the wheels?
> 
> -SD


Superdave, awesome. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.


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## lesurfman

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperdaveFelt 
There is a shim available without an eccentric that simply reduces the inner I.D. to 28.6mm. Of course you've got the headset spacers below the stem to adjust the bar position also.

-SD
Thanks SuperDave, Does the Z5 10deg. straight stem reducer was supposed to come with the bike?
I only got the eccentric one installed on the bike.

Another question, Is the Z5 seat post compatible with FIZIK 7x9 carbon rail seat?


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## Superdave3T

lesurfman said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by SuperdaveFelt
> There is a shim available without an eccentric that simply reduces the inner I.D. to 28.6mm. Of course you've got the headset spacers below the stem to adjust the bar position also.
> 
> -SD
> Thanks SuperDave, Does the Z5 10deg. straight stem reducer was supposed to come with the bike?
> I only got the eccentric one installed on the bike.
> 
> Another question, Is the Z5 seat post compatible with FIZIK 7x9 carbon rail seat?


No, the straight shim only came with the stem if it was purchased as a stand alone aftermarket piece, not with a bike since the headset stack wouldn't be trimmed and any hieght/position could still be obtained.

The Z5 seatpost from 2011 will not fit the 7x9 Fizik rails, sorry.

-SD


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## lesurfman

Can this straight shim be ordered from Felt?
Price?

Thanks a lot SuperD

Yves


No, the straight shim only came with the stem if it was purchased as a stand alone aftermarket piece, not with a bike since the headset stack wouldn't be trimmed and any hieght/position could still be obtained.


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## wotnoshoeseh

*Options for the F4 to Compact Gearing*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> Damian,
> Thank you for your business, the F4 is a great machine, a workhorse in the F-series line. The standard 53/39t crankset uses a 130mm bolt circle diameter (B.C.D.) This size only allows for chainrings down to 38t, any smaller and the attachement bolts will interfere with the chain/ring interface. If you want to swap to compact gearing you'll need at least, the drive side crank arm and chainrings. You don't need a complete new crankset with bottom bracket and the left crank arm although it may be difficult to source just the drive side. The "compact" on the 50/34t crankset refers not just to the smaller rings but also the B.C.D. which is 110mm on the Shimano Ultegra cranks.
> If the only change you make is to go to 50-34t then you'll also want to shorten the chain.
> 
> One option you might consider is a new cassette. The stock 11-25t cassette could be changed to a 12-28t or 11-28t and Shimano recently introduced a 12-30t option as well. Techically speaking the 30t exceeds the current "28t max" cog size on the Ultegra RD but it remains within the published capacity. It might be worth a try at your locall Felt Dealer to verify the function with a 12-30t cassette. That would be the most affordable alternative to get a lower gear range.
> 
> One change you'll see on Felt's 2012 models is the use of "performance compact" gearing with more models using the 52/36t chainring size on compact 110mm BCD. This has proven more versatile for many of our consumers. This option will be found on many 2012 Felt models and you'll see it being used from more brands in the industry in 2013.
> 
> -SD


Dave,
Thanks for the response.
My LBS has an FSA Gossamer crankset on clearance (50/34). Will this fit or will I need to change the BB?
I think the FSA uses the Shimano Splined BB but I could be wrong.
How much work is there in swapping this out?


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## easyridernyc

*stupid question*

for sd, two parts stupid, really

first, how did the recall affect availability of 2011 f5? i am looking to save bread on last year's model before the 012's roll in. i suspect the recall is affecting what went out and what's left over. maybe im wrong, who knows. otherwise its been tough to find one in size, and the '012's are kinda priced out of reach, at least for me. if i could find an '11 for under 18, gonna make my next choice a tough one. help.


and two, what are the differences between the '011 and '012 f5's? as i say 2500 is a lot for me, probably out of range, in fact. nonetheless it 'd be nice what the extra five hundred is for. thanks homie


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## jasonandrew76

This is for SD as well. Can i buy the bar tape that comes on the 2012 Z4 through the felt website? It is the white tape with the black felt logo's. By the way, getting a lot of people gawking this bike on the group rides. Terrific work!!


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## ActionK

I had the opportunity to deal with two people on the phone the other day while ordering a Felt team jersey. Their customer service was way beyond what was necessary - great people. One was Christina in accounting, and I am sorry to say I forget name of the gentleman who first answered the phone. I want to say it was initials, like DC, or something like that. But it could just as easily have been Larry or Matt or God knows what. Whoever it was, he was helpful and got me to the right person.


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## BenFelt

Sorry jasonandrew76. We do not currently offer this OEM tape in the aftermarket. But we will look in to bringing it in the near future.


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## bobones

How can I get hold of spare felt cable ends (frey done away)? I'm looking for black ones for my 2011 F85, but both the Felt shops in my area (Scotland) didn't carry any spares. TIA.


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## alf1096

Can I get a wheel weight on my 2011 z6 they are the mavic cxp 22n. I am looking to upgrade and want to know what kind of weight I am riding on now.


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## JogBike

alf1096 said:


> Can I get a wheel weight on my 2011 z6 they are the mavic cxp 22n. I am looking to upgrade and want to know what kind of weight I am riding on now.


Related to above question about weight of CXP 22N: Some Felts are equipped with CXP 22N and some with CXP 22S. What is the distinction between the two wheelsets?


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## Johnny Bravo

i am about to purchase a 2011 Felt Z2
it comes Di2 equipped

QUESTION FOR SUPERDAVE:
in case I want to install a standard mechanical/cabled gearing system, can I use the adapters below on this frame?

w.feltbicycles.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/LargeBikes/Di2%20Parts%20Kit.jpg

If negative, does the frame allow a mechanical system, or is it a Di2 system only frame?


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## Racersir

I have a question I have a 2011 Felt F5 Team Garmin and was looking to upgrade my crankset from the Shimano 105 to a a FSA SLK Light BB30. Will these be a straight forward install? Is the F5 bottom bracket BB30 with a 24mm adapter for the Shimano? Also I'm thinking of changing to a BB30 ceramic bearings to reduce friction. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## Superdave3T

jasonandrew76 said:


> This is for SD as well. Can i buy the bar tape that comes on the 2012 Z4 through the felt website? It is the white tape with the black felt logo's. By the way, getting a lot of people gawking this bike on the group rides. Terrific work!!


The bar tape is among the things we're looking at bringing into our aftermarket parts offering but today it isn't available, just like your tires.

Thanks for the kudos, we're lucky to have a great creative department with a great eye for small details.

Enjoy,
-SD


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## Superdave3T

ActionK said:


> I had the opportunity to deal with two people on the phone the other day while ordering a Felt team jersey. Their customer service was way beyond what was necessary - great people. One was Christina in accounting, and I am sorry to say I forget name of the gentleman who first answered the phone. I want to say it was initials, like DC, or something like that. But it could just as easily have been Larry or Matt or God knows what. Whoever it was, he was helpful and got me to the right person.


You probably got Dave "DC" in our New York sales office who transferred you to Christina in our accounting/catch-all in Irvine, CA. Glad they took such good care of you. Our #2 priority behind building the best bikes is our customer service. 

I'll pass along your acknowledgement.

-SD


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## Superdave3T

bobones said:


> How can I get hold of spare felt cable ends (frey done away)? I'm looking for black ones for my 2011 F85, but both the Felt shops in my area (Scotland) didn't carry any spares. TIA.


The fray dunaways should be available this spring through our distributors. It is possible that not every Felt Global distributor will carry them however.
-SD


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## shokhead

wpcouch said:


> Have a tech question regarding your Felt? Not sure if a certain part will be compatible? Just have a general question about your bike or Felt?
> 
> Here's your chance to get answers from the source! Ask away!


What dealer by me{lakewood, ca} will have a F2 Di2 to test ride?


----------



## Phatz85

I was wondering if you offer a bar tape that has the same feel as the tape that came on my 2011 z85?I don't mind if its not white,mine is getting dirty and I just purcahsed a set of devox bars and I don't want to put dirty tape on my new bars.Thanks


----------



## shokhead

Phatz85 said:


> I was wondering if you offer a bar tape that has the same feel as the tape that came on my 2011 z85?I don't mind if its not white,mine is getting dirty and I just purcahsed a set of devox bars and I don't want to put dirty tape on my new bars.Thanks


Feel as in gel? Most any bikeshop will have gel bartape. Also online.


----------



## Phatz85

I'm sorry about the silly question,but I am fairly new to road biking and I like how comfortable the tape feels while riding and I'd hate to buy a product that wasn't as good so I was hoping for some advice.


----------



## shokhead

Not silly. If you don't know, ask.

Example
2012 Fizik Microtex Bar Gel - Competitive Cyclist


----------



## Superdave3T

Racersir said:


> I have a question I have a 2011 Felt F5 Team Garmin and was looking to upgrade my crankset from the Shimano 105 to a a FSA SLK Light BB30. Will these be a straight forward install? Is the F5 bottom bracket BB30 with a 24mm adapter for the Shimano? Also I'm thinking of changing to a BB30 ceramic bearings to reduce friction. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Yes, you just need to pull out the 24mm adaptors and slide in the BB30 cranks. You won't need new bearings and unless you've got an "in" with a ceramic bearing source there are many other areas to spend your dollars for a performance per buck upgrade. 

If you do opt for the ceramics, just get the K-Force Light cranks as they'll come equipped.

Great ride by the way! I loved the way that model turned out.

-SD


----------



## rmaurer

*Problem with internal routing*

As a followup, I just got my 58cm FC. Beautiful frame, especially for the price.

One problem. When I went to route the cables internally I found that the Ultegra Di2 internal junction box won't fit in the hole underneath the bottom bracket (where the removable cable routing piece normally sits).

Is there a solution? I'd like to have a fully internal setup.

Thanks.


----------



## Johnny Bravo

Johnny Bravo said:


> i am about to purchase a 2011 Felt Z2
> it comes Di2 equipped
> 
> QUESTION FOR SUPERDAVE:
> in case I want to install a standard mechanical/cabled gearing system, can I use the adapters below on this frame?
> 
> w.feltbicycles.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/LargeBikes/Di2%20Parts%20Kit.jpg
> 
> If negative, does the frame allow a mechanical system, or is it a Di2 system only frame?




Still waiting for a reply from FELT...


----------



## Superdave3T

yes, you'll need to drop it down the downtube. Shimano suprised us with the larger Di2 box for Ultegra. For 2013 the frame will be modified to fit the new 18mm box. For now you'll need to pull out the fork and fish everything down the tubetube.

Sorry; but the good news is you'll only need to do it once!

-SD


----------



## shokhead

Johnny Bravo said:


> Still waiting for a reply from FELT...


What dealer by me{lakewood, ca} will have a F2 Di2 to test ride? 

Me too.


----------



## Don4

shokhead said:


> What dealer by me{lakewood, ca} will have a F2 Di2 to test ride?
> 
> Me too.


I'm guessing it would be faster to look them up using the Dealer Locator on www.feltbicycles.com and calling the shops directly.

Felt distribution is going to know where they shipped bikes, but I'm pretty sure they don't have real time inventories of LBS's.


----------



## BenFelt

Phatz85.

We do offer a similar bartape to your 2011 Z85 in the Aftermarket. It can be found on our website under road parts or any Felt dealer should be able to order you some.

-BW3


----------



## shokhead

Don4 said:


> I'm guessing it would be faster to look them up using the Dealer Locator on Felt Bicycles and calling the shops directly.
> 
> Felt distribution is going to know where they shipped bikes, but I'm pretty sure they don't have real time inventories of LBS's.


Thanks!


----------



## Johnny Bravo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo 
i am about to purchase a 2011 Felt Z2
it comes Di2 equipped

QUESTION:
in case I want to install a standard mechanical/cabled gearing system, can I use the adapters below on this frame?

w.feltbicycles.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/LargeBikes/Di2%20Parts%20Kit.jpg

If negative, does the frame allow a mechanical system, or is it a Di2 system only frame?


----------



## Superdave3T

Johnny Bravo said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo
> i am about to purchase a 2011 Felt Z2
> it comes Di2 equipped
> 
> QUESTION:
> in case I want to install a standard mechanical/cabled gearing system, can I use the adapters below on this frame?
> 
> w.feltbicycles.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/LargeBikes/Di2%20Parts%20Kit.jpg
> 
> If negative, does the frame allow a mechanical system, or is it a Di2 system only frame?


Wow, congrats on the new bike, that is an awesome machine! You can remove the Di2 wires and install mechanical cables if the need ever arose. Once you ride Di2 though, your mechanical days are over.

After test riding the new EPS for a week, I'm stringing up a SR EPS kit on a Z1 now. 

Enjoy the ride!

-SD


----------



## cgdrennan

I have a 2011 felt f95 in the silver/red accent frame. I have only put about 2-300 miles on it so far cause its freezing here in Utah! I recently noticed a strange creaking noise from the rear hub area. Are the rear hub bearings repackable/replaceable? Should I take extra precautions riding during below freezing temperatures? Thanks a ton!


----------



## Don4

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Wow, congrats on the new bike, that is an awesome machine! You can remove the Di2 wires and install mechanical cables if the need ever arose. Once you ride Di2 though, your mechanical days are over.
> 
> *After test riding the new EPS for a week, I'm stringing up a SR EPS kit on a Z1 now.*
> 
> Enjoy the ride!
> 
> -SD


Hey Superdave!

Any thoughts on offering the Campy EPS on a Felt in the future? It's nice to see Campagnolo on the F4130 -Athena. Also nice to see a steel offering from Felt.

BTW, still love my 2011 F3!

Thanks,

-- Don


----------



## sqwk77

*F1...need to know how many spacers to determine total stack acheiveable*

Toying with getting an F1 in a 61cm. I see on the website the stack is a relatively high 607 with only a 200 headtube. I love that the reach is a super long 419, but I need more stack and don't want to sacrifice reach by turning the stem up.

So my question is how tall is the headset and how many more MMs of spacers are there on an uncut fork? (ie my current bike has a 15mm headset and 35mm of spacers thereby raising the stem 50mm).

And can you verify the reach stack numbers are frame only, not including the headset? Or does the stack include the headset height as well? 

Thanks!


----------



## jammer

When will the '12 F65X hit LBS's? I'm being told by mine sometime in March, is that correct?

WOW would love to give this bike a chance but a month plus into the gravel season is a bit to ask when I have a great opportunity for purchasing a bike.


----------



## Superdave3T

cgdrennan said:


> I have a 2011 felt f95 in the silver/red accent frame. I have only put about 2-300 miles on it so far cause its freezing here in Utah! I recently noticed a strange creaking noise from the rear hub area. Are the rear hub bearings repackable/replaceable? Should I take extra precautions riding during below freezing temperatures? Thanks a ton!


Thanks for your purchase, the F95 has been missed this year. I hope we'll bring it back in the US market. The creaking is unlikely to be the rear hub, there isn't much noise that is emitted from a hub, even when it is loose or dry. Of course you should maintain it. I'd check the cassette lockring, QR, chainrings bolts, and pedal plates, too. Many retailers offer a ~30 day check up, has this been done with your bike?

As for freezing temps, the bike is ready to go to temps unsafe for people. Bundle up!

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Don4 said:


> Hey Superdave!
> 
> Any thoughts on offering the Campy EPS on a Felt in the future? It's nice to see Campagnolo on the F4130 -Athena. Also nice to see a steel offering from Felt.
> 
> BTW, still love my 2011 F3!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -- Don


Thoughts? Yes, I'd love to do an EPS bike. I need a few hundred more like-minded consumers.

I've been training and racing on the F4130 this year. I'm very happy with the overall performance of the bike. I kept the Campy theme but I'm using the paint job sold in the UK and Japan and upgraded the parts a bit. I'll post a photo eventually.

-SD

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

sqwk77 said:


> Toying with getting an F1 in a 61cm. I see on the website the stack is a relatively high 607 with only a 200 headtube. I love that the reach is a super long 419, but I need more stack and don't want to sacrifice reach by turning the stem up.
> 
> So my question is how tall is the headset and how many more MMs of spacers are there on an uncut fork? (ie my current bike has a 15mm headset and 35mm of spacers thereby raising the stem 50mm).
> 
> And can you verify the reach stack numbers are frame only, not including the headset? Or does the stack include the headset height as well?
> 
> Thanks!


The headset uses a 15mm cone washer with ~17.2mm to the flat surface above the head tube. If you get a complete bike there are 87mm of steerer tube, the framesets' forks are uncut.

S & R are for the frame only.

Enjoy the bike!
-SD


----------



## cgdrennan

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Thanks for your purchase, the F95 has been missed this year. I hope we'll bring it back in the US market. The creaking is unlikely to be the rear hub, there isn't much noise that is emitted from a hub, even when it is loose or dry. Of course you should maintain it. I'd check the cassette lockring, QR, chainrings bolts, and pedal plates, too. Many retailers offer a ~30 day check up, has this been done with your bike?
> 
> As for freezing temps, the bike is ready to go to temps unsafe for people. Bundle up!
> 
> -SD


thanks for the reply! I hope felt brings back the f95 in the future as well. It is a great entry level bike and I love mine. I will have to check the lockring on the cassete as the sound is heard when I just spin the rear wheel without the cranks turning.


----------



## easyridernyc

cgdrennan said:


> I have a 2011 felt f95 in the silver/red accent frame. I have only put about 2-300 miles on it so far cause its freezing here in Utah! I recently noticed a strange creaking noise from the rear hub area. Are the rear hub bearings repackable/replaceable? Should I take extra precautions riding during below freezing temperatures? Thanks a ton!



hopefully its not the bracket. my initial experience with creaking was to suspect that it was the seatpost. i took it in and right away the mech was like "that's the wheel." and im like, no way just bought that phuckin wheel, man. the only way to tell is to take the wheel off, put another wheel on and ride it. if the noise stops, its the hub. 

no big deal, really. what happens in cold and shytty weather is that water gets into an unsealed hub and wreaks havoc on the thick high quality lube they got goin in there next to the ball bearings and all the other gud shyt on the inside of the wheel. have the mech pull the wheel apart and carefully lube the bearings. then you'll be good to go, just mind exposing the unsealed hub to too much water, once that lube begins to degrade you'll be grinding away on the bearings. not good. 

in the same way, if water gets down into the bracket, that mf will squeak squeak squeak drive you effin nuts. nw just let the mech at it with some lube, he'll know what time it is, i had that problem on my 75 for a minute, after fifteen thousand miles she's running as smooth as ever. good luck...


----------



## hoopingkld

*F5 sl*



wpcouch said:


> Have a tech question regarding your Felt? Not sure if a certain part will be compatible? Just have a general question about your bike or Felt?
> 
> Here's your chance to get answers from the source! Ask away!


Hello,

i recently acquired a Felt F5SL 2009 and looks like i can't find any specific information about this frame besides the European site. Can you advise if this F5SL will be equivalent to what type of F series (material, construction..etc) in US for 2009 or later year. 

My pix attached.

Thanks,


----------



## tmb

Ive been trying to find out too! So far no one is giving up any info.


----------



## Superdave3T

jammer said:


> When will the '12 F65X hit LBS's? I'm being told by mine sometime in March, is that correct?
> 
> WOW would love to give this bike a chance but a month plus into the gravel season is a bit to ask when I have a great opportunity for purchasing a bike.


Where are you located? The F65x has been selling for a while now although availability contiues to be a challenge due to higher than expected demand for this new disc brake model.

-SD


----------



## cgdrennan

easyridernyc said:


> hopefully its not the bracket. my initial experience with creaking was to suspect that it was the seatpost. i took it in and right away the mech was like "that's the wheel." and im like, no way just bought that phuckin wheel, man. the only way to tell is to take the wheel off, put another wheel on and ride it. if the noise stops, its the hub.
> 
> no big deal, really. what happens in cold and shytty weather is that water gets into an unsealed hub and wreaks havoc on the thick high quality lube they got goin in there next to the ball bearings and all the other gud shyt on the inside of the wheel. have the mech pull the wheel apart and carefully lube the bearings. then you'll be good to go, just mind exposing the unsealed hub to too much water, once that lube begins to degrade you'll be grinding away on the bearings. not good.
> 
> in the same way, if water gets down into the bracket, that mf will squeak squeak squeak drive you effin nuts. nw just let the mech at it with some lube, he'll know what time it is, i had that problem on my 75 for a minute, after fifteen thousand miles she's running as smooth as ever. good luck...


Thanks for the info! I'm suspecting the wheel because I hear it when the bike is on my stand and I spin the wheel freely. I can't hear the noise while I ride though.. Are roadbike hubs similar to MB hubs? Why aren't hubs sealed in the first place? I have only ridden in wet weather 2 times since getting my bike so if the hub is really having problems that's not good and makes me want to upgrade my hubs


----------



## tmb

Woohoo! That's good to hear.

I'm in southeast Michigan, I'll be hitting up my lbs(Sweet Bikes in Canton) on Mon to see what they can come up with.


----------



## jammer

*F65x Availability*

I'm in Central Iowa and neither of the LBS's that carry FELT say they know when they'll be getting any in however March was their best guess.


----------



## rmaurer

Any answers on this? Could I slightly dremel out the existing hole? The difference is only a millimeter or two.


----------



## rr-avesta

*Felt DA custom travel case*

I have just ordered a Felt DA3 and am going to tailor a soft travel case that I hope will come close to the 158cm maximum size allowed by airlines. The idea is to remove the bayonet fork, saddle, rear derailleur and crankset. I would really appreciate if Felt or some one else with a size 58 Felt DA could help give me the follwing two measures:

1. Vertical - under bottom bracket "housing" to top of top tube
2. Horizontal - back of rear wheel cutout to front of head tube (fork removed)

I do not really understand exactly where the stack and reach numbers published by Felt are taken, othwerwise those measures would have been useful. But maybe someone can explain that as well?


----------



## egdell

I'm 68 years old and in pretty good shape for my age. I've decided to get a bike for toodling around town but want to be comfortable and have been looking at so-called "cruisers" and "comfort" models. I'm really into style and the beauty of today's bikes and have honed in on the Felt Slater cruiser, which I think is absolutely gorgeous!

My problem is that I'm 6'7" tall and can't find any info on the size of this bike--would someone my height "fit" on it? I live in San Francisco, and I can't find a store that carries it so I can try it out. Can anyone help me out here?

Thanks a lot.


----------



## rmaurer

*Bueller?*

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller? 

Great bike, but still searching for a solution to the internal routing.

Ralph


----------



## jacamp16

*Felt F75: 2011 vs. 2012*

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and looking to get info on my first road bike purchase. I've decided to go with Felt because the QPR seems to be the best around. Though I'd love to go carbon with something like the F5, I just can't justify the extra cash for a new hobby (especially when I have to fully outfit myself with everything else). So I'm pretty set on the F75. 

I'm writing to see if I can get some advice on the differences between the 2011 and 2012 models. There's an LBS by me that is selling the 2011 model for $1299 and the 2012 model is going for $1399. In researching, I've noticed that the MSRP has dropped on the 2012 (from 2011) but also added weight. Should I take that as a sign of the quality dropping as well? Or is it something else? 

Any thoughts/suggestions/tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

jacamp16 said:


> Hello all. I'm new to the forum and looking to get info on my first road bike purchase. I've decided to go with Felt because the QPR seems to be the best around. Though I'd love to go carbon with something like the F5, I just can't justify the extra cash for a new hobby (especially when I have to fully outfit myself with everything else). So I'm pretty set on the F75.
> 
> I'm writing to see if I can get some advice on the differences between the 2011 and 2012 models. There's an LBS by me that is selling the 2011 model for $1299 and the 2012 model is going for $1399. In researching, I've noticed that the MSRP has dropped on the 2012 (from 2011) but also added weight. Should I take that as a sign of the quality dropping as well? Or is it something else?
> 
> Any thoughts/suggestions/tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.


If you can find a 2011 that is $100 cheaper than a 2012 and it fits you, buy it.

-SD


----------



## jacamp16

Thanks so much for the quick reply. Of course, I call on the shop to try and place my order and now they're telling me their down to just the 56cm (I need a 58). Looks like I'll have to go with the 2012...


----------



## egdell

*Beaumont Cruiser*

I just received my new Felt Cruiser Beaumont yesterday and I love it! It's truly a work of art. I've got a couple of questions, however:

The Felt marketing photo of this bike shows a cable running from both handlebar grips. The cable that runs from the left grip down to the front wheel hub doesn't exist on mine. What was the missing cable for and why is it missing?

I'd like to get a basket for the rear rack. The surface of the rack has two holes in line with the bike frame toward the back. What are these holes for? Are there accessories that are intended for these holes and, if so, where can I find them?

Thanks a lot.

Kerry


----------



## Superdave3T

egdell said:


> I just received my new Felt Cruiser Beaumont yesterday and I love it! It's truly a work of art. I've got a couple of questions, however:
> 
> The Felt marketing photo of this bike shows a cable running from both handlebar grips. The cable that runs from the left grip down to the front wheel hub doesn't exist on mine. What was the missing cable for and why is it missing?
> 
> I'd like to get a basket for the rear rack. The surface of the rack has two holes in line with the bike frame toward the back. What are these holes for? Are there accessories that are intended for these holes and, if so, where can I find them?
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Kerry


The Beaumont is sold globally and some countries require a front brake on their bicycles. The front brake cable in the photo is from the model sold in a country where it is illegal to sell a bike without a front brake. I'm afraid the wrong photo was used on the USA website, sorry. The USA version does not include a front brake.

The rear rack has no additional aftermarket accessories that we make today, it is possible that future projects could include a rear basket like the ones we've done for New Belgium Brewing Company.

Enjoy the ride!
-SD


----------



## Jammerjam

How would you compare the top of the line Felt with that of Litespeed?


----------



## Superdave3T

Jammerjam said:


> How would you compare the top of the line Felt with that of Litespeed?


The top of the line bikes from both companies are incredible machines. I guess you'd need to be more specific on which metrics you wish to compare.

The industry is too competitive to make a poor performing $10,000 bicycle. It is hard to find fault with a $2000 bike from Felt, Litespeed, Jamis, Specialized, Orbea, Motobecane, etc... It all depends on yourpreferences and what you feel is importatnt.

Cannondale makes an amazing bike in their new SuperSix EVO, is it as aerodynamic as the Cervelo S5, the Specialized Venge, or the Felt AR5 at 1/4 the price? No. If aerodynamics are less important to you, then draw the comparisons you feel are important.

If you have any specific questions about Felt bicycles (or any other brand) I'd be happy to offer my opinion.

-SD


----------



## edot1983

What would be a good crankset for f5? Also, how much lighter can I make this bike?


----------



## Cal44DE

I am in the process of looking at a few Felt AR's. I am trying to figure out what will be my best option and the primary questions relates to any changes or improvements to the frames from year to year. So I am looking at a 2010 AR frameset with Scram Red components (good condition, but seen plenty of miles) or I found a new 2011 AR4 (brand new much more expensive with Shimano Ultegra components). 

So were there any significant improvements to the frame from 2010 to 2011? Seems like I have read that the earlier ARs had more flex and the more recent ARs are significantly more stiff.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks,
Ed


----------



## edot1983

Wassup cal! Not too familiar with the ar models. But as far as components, the 105 and ultegra are very similar in proformance. The only difference would probably be the weight (grams at the most).


----------



## clint_eastwood

Regarding weights posted on the felt.com website ... can someone confirm that :

1) the claimed bike weight is painted (black frame I guess) medium sized frame without pedals

2) the claimed frame weight and fork weight are for medium sized unpainted frame


This question might have already been answered somewhere but I haven't managed to find the answer ... thanks!


----------



## arctic biker

*F85 2011 Levers*

Bike has Micro shifters but what model they are?

Another very minor) item is bottom brackett lenght, 103 mm was delivered and somewhere I remember have seen that Vero cranks should have 110 mm. Suplied RPM is really stiff spinning in cold, 5F and colder! In room temperature it is okay. I fitted Shimanos FC-r600
compacts with self serviced bottom brackett which spins freely. Maybe first test drive next week. Might be very short one...


----------



## Mute

Is the ZC frameset discontinued for 2012?


----------



## Superdave3T

Mute said:


> Is the ZC frameset discontinued for 2012?


No, it will continue to serve the frameset-only consumers looking for a great ride at an affordable price point. Because of the scale of production however, the sales of complete bikes like the Z3, Z4, and Z5 are much higher. The Z3 has been among the best selling new models for us. It would be impossible for a dealer or consumer to buy a ZC and build it up with Ultegra Di2 and Fulcrum wheels for anywhere near the MSRP on the complete Z3.

Best,
-SD


----------



## Mute

SuperdaveFelt said:


> No, it will continue to serve the frameset-only consumers looking for a great ride at an affordable price point. Because of the scale of production however, the sales of complete bikes like the Z3, Z4, and Z5 are much higher. The Z3 has been among the best selling new models for us. It would be impossible for a dealer or consumer to buy a ZC and build it up with Ultegra Di2 and Fulcrum wheels for anywhere near the MSRP on the complete Z3.
> 
> Best,
> -SD


Thanks for the info SD. I'm looking for a frame only because I want to run a Sram drivetrain, otherwise, you're right, there's no way I can build it cheaper with a Shimano group. Same with the F5/FC.


----------



## FeltF75rider

I just purchased a 2011 F75, my question concerns saddle size. It is a 54cm, is there a specific size saddle this comes with or is it a one size kinda deal. I have a specialized alias 130 saddle I bought for my previous bike that I liked however I am undecided about the Felt saddle and curious about its size


----------



## hoopingkld

FeltF75rider said:


> I just purchased a 2011 F75, my question concerns saddle size. It is a 54cm, is there a specific size saddle this comes with or is it a one size kinda deal. I have a specialized alias 130 saddle I bought for my previous bike that I liked however I am undecided about the Felt saddle and curious about its size


Whatever it worth..your feeling will be it.IMHO..don't try to measure bc the different size and material ....plus how your sit bone fit. Felt stock saddle was never live up to its name...


----------



## z85guy

*Felt Devox (clearance) vs Stock saddle*

Dear Felt,

Whats the difference between the Devox saddle on clearance and the stock saddle on a 2011 Z-85? Obviously less padding and weight but what about the size comparison and will it fit on the stock seat post?

Thanks


----------



## Mute

SuperDave, when will the ZC framesets be available? I'm trying to get an estimate on a build, but my bike shop (an authorized Felt dealer) can only get a Z1 frameset. Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

Mute said:


> SuperDave, when will the ZC framesets be available? I'm trying to get an estimate on a build, but my bike shop (an authorized Felt dealer) can only get a Z1 frameset. Thanks!


What country do you reside in, or more specifically; what is the name of your shop?
-SD


----------



## Mute

Hi SD. My shop is RDG Cycles in Chino, CA.


----------



## dgoldfarb

Hi. LBS has offered me nice deal on 2011 AR-3 with SRAM Red, 56 cm. I've been riding forever a 54 cm Bianchi Giro, triple, 105. LBS says Felt thinks the 56 cm bike can fit nicely for a 54 cm rider, which seems possible. I'm 5'10", 190 lbs. Test riding this week. Whaddya think about the size? seems like a nice upgrade to me otherwise. THANKS!


----------



## Elpimpo

SuperDave & wpcouch:

In my hunt to find my 2011 Z5 frame weight, all I could find was this 2011 Felt Z5?


Screen Shot 2012-02-14 at 6.06.08 PM by hondaisthebest, on Flickr

about the 7th post some guy (sounds sure) says the 2011 z5 frame weighs "sub 1000 grams"

Ive been looking because:
A. i love the frame and would rather upgrade parts than upgrade the frame.
and 
B. just gotta know

Does this statement hold any weight? (insert pun)

and, is there like an official felt frame weights chart?

Id really love to avoid stripping the bike and purchasing a scale


----------



## Camilo

Elpimpo said:


> SuperDave & wpcouch:
> 
> In my hunt to find my 2011 Z5 frame weight, all I could find was this 2011 Felt Z5?
> 
> 
> Screen Shot 2012-02-14 at 6.06.08 PM by hondaisthebest, on Flickr
> 
> about the 7th post some guy (sounds sure) says the 2011 z5 frame weighs "sub 1000 grams"
> 
> Ive been looking because:
> A. i love the frame and would rather upgrade parts than upgrade the frame.
> and
> B. just gotta know
> 
> Does this statement hold any weight? (insert pun)
> 
> and, is there like an official felt frame weights chart?
> 
> Id really love to avoid stripping the bike and purchasing a scale


For what it's worth, I've found the weights quoted on the Felt website or claimed by Felt reps online to be very accurate. They are usually (always?) based on weights of actual frames. 

Another FWIW, my 2010 Felt ZC is pretty much exactly (with in a very few grams, a very tiny % variance) what it was said to be when I bought it. (It's 1093 grams for frame and water bottle bolts only, no fork or headset). At the time I bought my ZC, the Z1 was about 100+ grams lighter. Since it looks like the current ZC is about the same frame as the old Z1, based on my previous experience, I'd personally trust that "approximately 10% lighter than the old ZC" claim.

My fork, again, fwiw, was pretty much exactly what the website claimed for an uncut 1.2 fork, and it's a nice, lightweight fork.

So, my inclination is to say to you - whatever the Felt reps and/or the website tells you about the weights of the current version ZC frame and fork, there's a high credibility factor based on my own personal experiences.


----------



## Elpimpo

@Camilo

Thanks! thats reassuring. The wife agreed on X amount of $ on cycling gear when i get back from afghanistan/my b-day/chrismas/fathers day.

so i initially wanted a frame that was around 1100gms but if my current frame (which i love) weighs less, ill just get "high speed, low drag" parts that i can re-use later in life.


----------



## Camilo

Elpimpo said:


> @Camilo
> 
> Thanks! thats reassuring. The wife agreed on X amount of $ on cycling gear when i get back from afghanistan/my b-day/chrismas/fathers day.
> 
> so i initially wanted a frame that was around 1100gms but if my current frame (which i love) weighs less, ill just get "high speed, low drag" parts that i can re-use later in life.


What's your current frame? There's a lot of actual frame weights in the weightweenies listings.

In case you're not familiar, it's weightweenies.starbike.com. THe most current listings are in the actual forums, and you can only access them if you have a user account. It's a great site for that sort of info.


----------



## Elpimpo

Camilo said:


> What's your current frame? There's a lot of actual frame weights in the weightweenies listings.


I have a 2011 Z5.


----------



## Superdave3T

Elpimpo said:


> SuperDave & wpcouch:
> 
> In my hunt to find my 2011 Z5 frame weight, all I could find was this 2011 Felt Z5?
> 
> 
> Screen Shot 2012-02-14 at 6.06.08 PM by hondaisthebest, on Flickr
> 
> about the 7th post some guy (sounds sure) says the 2011 z5 frame weighs "sub 1000 grams"
> 
> Ive been looking because:
> A. i love the frame and would rather upgrade parts than upgrade the frame.
> and
> B. just gotta know
> 
> Does this statement hold any weight? (insert pun)
> 
> and, is there like an official felt frame weights chart?
> 
> Id really love to avoid stripping the bike and purchasing a scale


1000g is accurate for a unpainted 56cm Z5 frame. A fully painted frame like the Z5 can be another 60-200g; if you want to know exactly what YOUR frame weighs you'll need to strip it and put it on a scale.

-SD


----------



## FeltF75rider

Devox saddle on website, what does it compare to. looking at fizik kurve but this has caught my eye?


----------



## Superdave3T

edot1983 said:


> What would be a good crankset for f5? Also, how much lighter can I make this bike?


That really depends on what you are looking for. It is hard to find fault with Shimano's cranksets, they shift great and are plenty stiff. If weight is your primary concern, a set of Clavicula's would be tough to beat.

There are a few guys that I ride with locally with FC bikes built up. This is the same frame that you have on your FC. The lightest I've seen is a sub 14 pound bike with SRAM Red, 3T LTD parts, Prologo ti-rail saddle, and Zipp clinchers.

-SD


----------



## windjammer0307

FeltF75rider said:


> Devox saddle on website, what does it compare to. looking at fizik kurve but this has caught my eye?




They are not similar at all. While both saddles are well made, they are significantly different. The Kurve Snake is designed more like the Arione, slim and narrow, and flat in design. The Felt saddle is much wider at the rear, has more padding and is round in shape, similar to the Aliante. I would urge you, having just gone through 2 months of "demoing" saddles, to see what your butt likes first.


----------



## ThreeSixT

Is there any way for you to tell me whether or not any of your SoCal dealers have a 2011 Z5 61" left in stock??...I've had my heart set on one for a while and am finally ready to pull the trigger, but really prefer the white over this year's red.


----------



## chlorinegreen

Hello Felt forums,
I'm new to the forum and looking to make my first real road bike purchase. I'm a highschool swimmer/runner and a triathlete during the summer, and I'll be doing draft-legal racing for the first time this spring thanks to my school's cycling team. From what I've heard from the owner of my LBS, aluminum is the way to go for college/highschool racing, so the F75 seems to be the clear choice for me.
My awesome parents are paying for the bike itself, but I want to make the most educated decision possible here because this is most likely what I'll be riding for the next few years. So, basically, I just wanted to know people's thoughts on the bike and any advice people may have concerning the purchase!


----------



## FeltF75rider

I have a 2011 Felt F75 and it is a great bike. I have had a few road bikes over the years and this one is an absolute joy to ride. Its fast and very capable. Just get a good fit and put some miles on it. I did not care for the seat however it may work out for you. I really like the 11-25 cassette but others may tell you an 12-28 or some other cassette may be more practical. Again to each his own. The F75 is a great value and with the 105 components and compact crank set make it a great all around bike. I am more of a milage rider and not a racer but this bike would be competitive for sure.


----------



## chlorinegreen

FeltF75rider said:


> I have a 2011 Felt F75 and it is a great bike. I have had a few road bikes over the years and this one is an absolute joy to ride. Its fast and very capable. Just get a good fit and put some miles on it. I did not care for the seat however it may work out for you. I really like the 11-25 cassette but others may tell you an 12-28 or some other cassette may be more practical. Again to each his own. The F75 is a great value and with the 105 components and compact crank set make it a great all around bike. I am more of a milage rider and not a racer but this bike would be competitive for sure.


Thanks for the info! Should be ordering the bike tomorrow if all goes well, can't wait to ride in a week or so.


----------



## T K

TT/tri B series question here: 
I'm in the market for a new TT bike. Am currently on converted road bike. 
Are the B bikes considered long and low or short and narrow.
I have never had a fitting. Will the F.I.S.T. fitting tell me if the felt is right for me?


----------



## MercRidnMike

Hi WPCouch,

I'm looking for a suggestion on where to start. Here's a little background...I'm an avid rider, though I spend most of my time on the dirt. I do have a Cx bike that I use for commuting duty, but most of my big road rides (1/2 C, k100, C, k200) have been accomplished on mountain bikes. Heck, the k200 was done on a 31 lb FS mtb in ~9 hrs...my co-workers who ride road say I live up to my nickname of "psycho" and seem to indicate that, although I am not the fastest out there, I seem to have great stamina for the endurance stuff. 

I'm not overly sure about carbon yet....the off-roader in me is still a hair skeptical, but I've seen some test videos done by Santa Cruz and others that are getting me more open to the idea.

As you can see, I like big rides and I also do a charity ride every year (back to back k100's)...so I'm looking for something comfortable for the long haul. But, if I'm getting something purely skinny tired, I do want something that will feel tons sportier than the Cx bike with slicks.

I'm 6', ~240lbs, 32-33" inseam and I know the 58cm Kona Jake Cx bike I ride is a little long... pretty good for commuting, but for anything over an hour on the trainer or 4 hrs on the road, I start to feel it.

So, F or Z series, double or single digit, suggestions for a starting size? Thanks a bunch.


----------



## FeltF75rider

F series is a more race oriented frame geometry and the Z series is a more relaxed geometry. I wanted an aggressive frame geometry and went with the F. I could not afford to step up to the carbon frame but really enjoy the aluminum. The bike shop I bought mine from say the F75 is like ridding a carbon bike. I am 5'6'' and ride a 54cm. I guess a 56 or 58 would be a good place to start. The dealer will fit you up to the right size and get you going. Test ride and see what geometry you like better. I have heard the carbon absorbs alot of the road vibration so it should be somewhat smoother than aluminum but I can not verify that. If looking at carbon the F5 is a screaming deal. I know my F75 is the nicest aluminum bike I have rode.


----------



## MercRidnMike

Yeah, the Z5 or Z6 have caught my eye...but I thought it better to ask those in the know rather than to grope in the dark


----------



## cycleboy2

New to this place but cyclist for 25 yrs. Just ordered a 2011 F1 that I got a killer deal on and I'm curious if there are differences between 2011 and 2012 other than paint scheme and fork?

(mercmtnmike, I've been an mtb'er for most of my time as a cyclist starting before there was suspension. Don't worry a bit about riding carbon. I've had a carbon rigid fork on my mtb for 2 yrs and it is bombproof. My buddy who weighs 215 is also on a carbon rigid mtb fork w no issues. Go for it on the road. No reason not to if you pick the right bike.)


----------



## bobones

You can see the old website at 2011.feltracing.com so you can check out the 2011 F1 specs and compare with the main site at feltbicycles.com. I think the big design improvements were made for the 2011 frames and 2012 is just an update.


----------



## jonylightweight

new 2011 f2

hi all

i am new to the forum just bought a 2011 f2.
i would like to know if this is correct regarding stem spacers.
2x10mm spacers
1x5mm spacer under stem
1x10 spacer above stem.
cycle was supplied with easton stem cap
i have now been provided with correct felt cap with red screw.
problem is now the red screw is too short .

any help please.


----------



## wpcouch

MercRidnMike said:


> Hi WPCouch,
> 
> I'm looking for a suggestion on where to start. Here's a little background...I'm an avid rider, though I spend most of my time on the dirt. I do have a Cx bike that I use for commuting duty, but most of my big road rides (1/2 C, k100, C, k200) have been accomplished on mountain bikes. Heck, the k200 was done on a 31 lb FS mtb in ~9 hrs...my co-workers who ride road say I live up to my nickname of "psycho" and seem to indicate that, although I am not the fastest out there, I seem to have great stamina for the endurance stuff.
> 
> I'm not overly sure about carbon yet....the off-roader in me is still a hair skeptical, but I've seen some test videos done by Santa Cruz and others that are getting me more open to the idea.
> 
> As you can see, I like big rides and I also do a charity ride every year (back to back k100's)...so I'm looking for something comfortable for the long haul. But, if I'm getting something purely skinny tired, I do want something that will feel tons sportier than the Cx bike with slicks.
> 
> I'm 6', ~240lbs, 32-33" inseam and I know the 58cm Kona Jake Cx bike I ride is a little long... pretty good for commuting, but for anything over an hour on the trainer or 4 hrs on the road, I start to feel it.
> 
> So, F or Z series, double or single digit, suggestions for a starting size? Thanks a bunch.


Hi Merc, 

Thanks for your interest in buying a FELT! Unfortunately, sizing and fitting questions are very difficult to answer via email/forums/phone etc. It really is best if you visit you local Felt dealer, as they will be more that capable recommending the correct size.

F vs. Z is also a tricky question. Both are great bikes. I may lean a bit more toward the Z series, for you, considering how many long rides you do. The Z frame was designed as a race worthy/quality machine, but with a more real world rider position. I encourage you to ride both the Z and F, however, so you can feel the difference for yourself.


----------



## cycleboy2

bobones said:


> You can see the old website at
> 
> I tried that 2011 link and got an inoperable site. Even the search function didn't work.
> 
> I know forum etiquette would be for me to search for this answer, but my computer died and I'm trying to type and view all of this on a tiny phone screen!
> 
> Does anyone know the diff bet 2011 and 2012 F1?


----------



## FeltF75rider

There are two versions of the F1 for 2012 Di2 and F1R with SRAM Red. Just one Version for 2011 with Di2. Also both have a different wheelset than in 2011. Most everything else looks the same. Claimed weight is just over 14lbs versus sub 14 for 2011. 2011 looks hot. Would not mind the F1R though. Not even close to my budget so I will continue to desire the F4 as it may some day be a reality.


----------



## cycleboy2

Thanks f75. I'm really looking for any differences in the frame set as that's what I'm getting to hang my existing DA parts on.


----------



## FeltF75rider

Frame should be unchanged. They just got a redesign for 2011 I believe so this would be an update in paint for the most part.


----------



## cycleboy2

Back on a real computer! Now just have to wait 3 more days for my F1 to arrive. LBS will be ordering the few things I need on Monday, should be ready to ride next weekend. My Cervelo is crying as yesterday may have been its last outing.


----------



## JockeyWheel

*F6 Frame*

Hi guys, I'm so glad to find this forum.

I had intended to start a new thread asking for test ride advice, but it seems that I'm not able to start a thread until I've posted 5 times. So, I'll ask a few starter questions in here.

The first question I have is about the 2012 F6. Does this bike share the same frame as the F3, F4 & F5? I wasn't able to work that out from the Felt website. How many different frames are there for the 2012 F Series?

The reason I ask is that I'm looking to start a build and an F Series (specifically an F1) frameset has made my short list. I'm trying desperately to find an F Series bike to ride but it has been tough going. Just finding a dealer that carries the F Series has been no easy feat as many of them carry only the other Felt lines.

The other thing that has made things difficult is that since it's the frame that I want to evaluate, I'd like to keep the other variables to a minimum, so I'd really like to find something with SRAM components to more easily swap in my wheels with Red cassette for the ride. I've done this for the other frames on my list. I managed to find a 2011 F3, but it is a Limited, with all DA components. That sort of makes things harder.

So I guess the next question is, if the F6 does not share the same frame, would I be better served to ride the F3 with Shimano or will the F6 give me a decent sense of the F1 frame set?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mute

JockeyWheel said:


> Hi guys, I'm so glad to find this forum.
> 
> I had intended to start a new thread asking for test ride advice, but it seems that I'm not able to start a thread until I've posted 5 times. So, I'll ask a few starter questions in here.
> 
> The first question I have is about the 2012 F6. Does this bike share the same frame as the F3, F4 & F5? I wasn't able to work that out from the Felt website. How many different frames are there for the 2012 F Series?
> 
> The reason I ask is that I'm looking to start a build and an F Series (specifically an F1) frameset has made my short list. I'm trying desperately to find an F Series bike to ride but it has been tough going. Just finding a dealer that carries the F Series has been no easy feat as many of them carry only the other Felt lines.
> 
> The other thing that has made things difficult is that since it's the frame that I want to evaluate, I'd like to keep the other variables to a minimum, so I'd really like to find something with SRAM components to more easily swap in my wheels with Red cassette for the ride. I've done this for the other frames on my list. I managed to find a 2011 F3, but it is a Limited, with all DA components. That sort of makes things harder.
> 
> So I guess the next question is, if the F6 does not share the same frame, would I be better served to ride the F3 with Shimano or will the F6 give me a decent sense of the F1 frame set?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The way I understand it, and I'm sure SuperDave will correct me of any errors in information, the F1 frameset (frame and fork) stands alone and is different from the rest of the F series. The F2 - F6 and FC all have the same frame, with the F2/F3/FC sharing a common fork and the F4/F5/F6 sharing a different common fork.


----------



## G-Force

My friend in Chicago just picked up a 2011 AR3 frame and is trying to find an appropriate headset. I was able to see that it's integrated, but I didn't know if it was Campy style or not. I didn't want to him to pick one up and get the wrong angle bearings. Any help?


----------



## JockeyWheel

Mute said:


> The way I understand it, and I'm sure SuperDave will correct me of any errors in information, the F1 frameset (frame and fork) stands alone and is different from the rest of the F series. The F2 - F6 and FC all have the same frame, with the F2/F3/FC sharing a common fork and the F4/F5/F6 sharing a different common fork.


Thanks, that's helpful information. I'm guessing that this would affect things like front end stiffness, which is making me think that I might be better off riding the F3, Shimano or no. Unless of course I can track something else down in the mean time, though that's not seeming likely. I'm in the S.F. Bay Area and would have thought that is would be easier than this to find a bike to test ride. Go figure.


----------



## Mute

JockeyWheel said:


> Thanks, that's helpful information. I'm guessing that this would affect things like front end stiffness, which is making me think that I might be better off riding the F3, Shimano or no. Unless of course I can track something else down in the mean time, though that's not seeming likely. I'm in the S.F. Bay Area and would have thought that is would be easier than this to find a bike to test ride. Go figure.


My advice, try the F3 and if you like it, try the find a non LTD model which comes with SRAM Red, or as you planned, build a bike with the F1 frameset. I wouldn't worry much about the front end stiffness across the line, in spite of the fork differences. You should run the dealer locator on the Felt website. I can't believe there aren't enough Felt dealers in the Bay Area to help you find what you're looking for.


----------



## wpcouch

Mute said:


> The way I understand it, and I'm sure SuperDave will correct me of any errors in information, the F1 frameset (frame and fork) stands alone and is different from the rest of the F series. The F2 - F6 and FC all have the same frame, with the F2/F3/FC sharing a common fork and the F4/F5/F6 sharing a different common fork.


The F6 actually uses a unique fork, with an aluminum steerer, whereas all other F-forks use a carbon steerer. Also, it should be noted that the F6 uses an English Threaded BB, NOT a BB30.


----------



## JockeyWheel

Mute said:


> My advice, try the F3 and if you like it, try the find a non LTD model which comes with SRAM Red, or as you planned, build a bike with the F1 frameset. I wouldn't worry much about the front end stiffness across the line, in spite of the fork differences. You should run the dealer locator on the Felt website. I can't believe there aren't enough Felt dealers in the Bay Area to help you find what you're looking for.


Thanks, I will probably ride the LTD and if I like it, do the build with the F1. I already have a full Red group sitting in boxes waiting for a frameset.

I did use the dealer locator and I've called all the ones within about 50 miles. It's not that they aren't happy to order me what I want, it's that they don't seem to keep the higher end bikes on the floor. I get the sense that they are worried about moving them. One dealer flat out told me that he stopped carrying Felt road bikes because he had to work twice as hard to sell them. He carried Trek as well and he said something like, "it has nothing to do with quality, I love Felt bikes, but for better or worse that Trek over there will sell itself. I have to work to sell the Felt road bikes." He did have a large selection of Felt cruisers and city bikes, though.

I'm not really sure what, if anything, I should read into that. The fact remains that the F Series frameset is really appealing to me, for reasons that I can't quite articulate at the moment. The frame itself has a certain aesthetic and the company seems to embody a certain ethic or philosophy that really resonates with me. Looking forward to actually riding it.


----------



## cycleboy2

Okay, got my frame today and it's gorgeous! Can't wait to get it built.

I'm confused though. It's an F1, supposed to be a 2011, but it has an aluminum threaded BB insert? I thought the 2011 F1 was carbon?

Edit - and measuring the ID, it seems the insert is 1.37" English thread? But the insert is definitely bonded into the frame, not something pressed in there.

Edit 2 - yep, just put an old standard 1.37" BB in there and it goes right in! Trying to understand if someone bonded in an insert or if I have some weird hybrid 2010/2011 frame?


----------



## lesurfman

looks like you got a 2010 

redesign 2011 & up have a BB30 not the threaded BB


----------



## cycleboy2

Weird, it says BB30 on it and the frame otherwise looks like the 2011. 

Does the serial number have any logic to the year?


----------



## Imaking20

The aluminum BB housing doesn't necessarily mean it's threaded. My 2012 F3 has the same insert - but I can't answer with certainty why a 2011 F1 would have the aluminum sleeve.





And for a question of my own (my apologies if this has already been covered); Is it possible to do away with the 2 bolt clamp for my seatpost in favor of a light 1 bolt setup? Looking at the stock arrangement, it seems as though the 2 bolt clamp may have been utilized due to issues with post slippage... and if that's the case, the 20 grams saved isn't worth riding on my top tube


----------



## Superdave3T

Imaking20 said:


> The aluminum BB housing doesn't necessarily mean it's threaded. My 2012 F3 has the same insert - but I can't answer with certainty why a 2011 F1 would have the aluminum sleeve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for a question of my own (my apologies if this has already been covered); Is it possible to do away with the 2 bolt clamp for my seatpost in favor of a light 1 bolt setup? Looking at the stock arrangement, it seems as though the 2 bolt clamp may have been utilized due to issues with post slippage... and if that's the case, the 20 grams saved isn't worth riding on my top tube


F1 uses a carbon BB shell, no aluminum.
The double clamp seatpost collar is used so that a wide variety of aftermarket and OEM seatposts can be used with a wide tolerance for fit. If you measure a new 27.2mm seatpost some will be as small as 27.10mm. 

We include torque paste and a double clamp collar so there are no problems with any seatpost that might be used.

If you are careful about using torque paste and a correctly sized seatpost then you'll have no troubles using the correct 30.6mm +0/-0.05mm I.D. single bolt seatpost clamp such as our aftermarket superlight 7075/Ti/Scandium clamps.

-SD


----------



## Imaking20

Awesome, thanks Dave!


----------



## cycleboy2

SuperdaveFelt said:


> F1 uses a carbon BB shell, no aluminum.
> 
> -SD


Hi, take a look at this link (I need more posts to put photos directly). Undo the break I put in the link, and copy/paste it.

It looks and feels like a 2011 F1, but has an aluminum insert in the BB, which appears to be bonded in there. It definitely says BB30, but the insert is threaded and my English threaded cup went right in. Frame weight for a 58 w/ bolts & hangers was 967g.

Mainly I'm concerned with what I actually have and whether it will work ok - chainline, creaking, other issues?

ht tp://sports.webshots.com/album/582522407wRQUxn

EDIT: when I check a bit more, it looks like maybe someone glued in something like the FSA threaded adaptor. See if anyone agrees that's what is in my photo.


----------



## Imaking20

Yeah, it definitely looks like someone hooked you up with a BB sleeve. Bummer. I'm not sure what it takes to safely get it out but I'm sure it can come out.


----------



## cycleboy2

It's actually probably fine. I'm planning to run my DA7800 BB and crank anyway, so it is actually easier with this. The only possible issue is whether whoever installed it did it right. I don't want either drivetrain problems or noises.


----------



## cycleboy2

I talked to the guy who sold it to me some more and he bought it directly from Felt as a 2011 F1 Team Issue. Not sure what that means exactly. The threaded insert seemed solid, so we went ahead and put my BB and cranks in it yesterday. Finished the build today and took it around the block. Rides really nice! Need to dial in the shifting a little though.

If I ever get enough posts, I will show some photos!


----------



## Superdave3T

cycleboy2 said:


> I talked to the guy who sold it to me some more and he bought it directly from Felt as a 2011 F1 Team Issue. Not sure what that means exactly. The threaded insert seemed solid, so we went ahead and put my BB and cranks in it yesterday. Finished the build today and took it around the block. Rides really nice! Need to dial in the shifting a little though.
> 
> If I ever get enough posts, I will show some photos!


Oh! A prototype team bike. Some of the teams we support are sponsored by Shimano and Shimano does not offer a BB30 bottom bracket for their cranks. For the teams that require threaded BBs we have a different frame insert.

-SD


----------



## arctic biker

*Felt VS Superlite 6061 bar reach and drop*

I asked those measurements a while ago. today as waiting new Ritchey Curve bar I disassembled original and there it was engraved; 78 mm and 140 mm. As Superdave said drop measurement result with variable shape is variable. It is, from the ends of bar closer 150 mm... Any way too much for me.

A little bit heavy 410 g, Curve will be 73/128 and 235 g, Hopefully!


----------



## JoeFeltF5

Quick Question for the Felt guys, as a new F5 owner I'd like to know the best way to care for the bike, are there specific cleaning materials or fluids I sould use? What should I do to minimise damage if the bike is wet in the rain ?

Thanks for a great product
Joe


----------



## Imaking20

Another question for Mr. SuperDave!

Something that has intrigued me a few times on my new F3 is the front fork - more specifically, how it seems much flatter and more "bladed", if you will, than the fork on my Tarmac was. I've also noticed (with a huge grin each time) that this bike FLIES when the hills point down - and I've made quick work of a few more experienced riders/racers on descents, prompting comments about how this bike must be more aero than one may think at first glance. I'm wondering if there is any data you could share about the technology of the fork and possibly how it compares to others in the category - or even to the AR fork. 
Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

Imaking20 said:


> Another question for Mr. SuperDave!
> 
> Something that has intrigued me a few times on my new F3 is the front fork - more specifically, how it seems much flatter and more "bladed", if you will, than the fork on my Tarmac was. I've also noticed (with a huge grin each time) that this bike FLIES when the hills point down - and I've made quick work of a few more experienced riders/racers on descents, prompting comments about how this bike must be more aero than one may think at first glance. I'm wondering if there is any data you could share about the technology of the fork and possibly how it compares to others in the category - or even to the AR fork.
> Thanks!


The F3 is quite a nice bike, congrats! One of the sponsored riders that helped with the development of the new F-series said, "you could win the Tour de France on this thing" after some extensive test riding. We're proud of that frameset. It is far more difficult to create a bicycle that good for $4000 than an F1 for $12,500.

As for the fork, the blade shape mirrors the aerodynamic profile and reduction of interference drag as our DA TT/Tri bike. The fork is indeed quite aero and on par with our other aerodynamic models in terms of drag. The torsional and lateral stiffness is higher on the F-series forks than any other model in our line but we kept the fore-aft stiffness to a mere 11% increase. Part of this is accomplished by creating an oval shape for tapered sections the steerer tube. This helps take some sting out of the bike's increased stiffness. The frame's high STW requirements mean the flatter rounder tubes used for the downtube and seatstays and small diameter round seat tube do not share the same aerodynamic advantages that the AR provide.

Enjoy beating up on your fellow riders/racers.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Imaking20

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The F3 is quite a nice bike, congrats! One of the sponsored riders that helped with the development of the new F-series said, "you could win the Tour de France on this thing" after some extensive test riding. We're proud of that frameset. It is far more difficult to create a bicycle that good for $4000 than an F1 for $12,500.
> 
> As for the fork, the blade shape mirrors the aerodynamic profile and reduction of interference drag as our DA TT/Tri bike. The fork is indeed quite aero and on par with our other aerodynamic models in terms of drag. The torsional and lateral stiffness is higher on the F-series forks than any other model in our line but we kept the fore-aft stiffness to a mere 11% increase. Part of this is accomplished by creating an oval shape for tapered sections the steerer tube. This helps take some sting out of the bike's increased stiffness. The frame's high STW requirements mean the flatter rounder tubes used for the downtube and seatstays and small diameter round seat tube do not share the same aerodynamic advantages that the AR provide.
> 
> Enjoy beating up on your fellow riders/racers.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


I'd have to agree that the bike truly is exceptional, especially for the value and considering the stock componentry. I think this bike is incredibly overlooked by most people - but it's quickly been appreciated by everyone I've ridden with.
The bike is also surprisingly comfortable and forgiving considering how well it responds to power. I can say the attention you folks paid to the smaller details, like only increasing fore-aft stiffness of the fork, is pretty readily noticeable and very much appreciated (this bike feels considerably quicker than the Tarmac it replaced while still having LOADS more). As a matter of fact, I find that I appreciate this bike (and Felt's development philosophies, apparently) more and more as I learn about smaller details that went into the design. Like the 2 bolt seatpost clamp I asked about previously - that's just being considerate!

As always, thanks for your time, Dave! :thumbsup:


----------



## TDI Hoo

*Chainstay Protector on 2012 Z6*

I am new to this forum and to Felt bikes. I ordered a 2012 Z6 last week and it should be in this week. I was fitted at my LBS on a Z95 and the fit was comfortable, like a glove, as I rode for a few miles in the neighborhood. 

1. But does the carbon frame Z6 come from Felt with chain stay protectors? 
2. What is this chain plate protector and where does it go on the frame? It is on the Felt web page under road parts at $9.99. 

Since this is my first post, I cannot put in the link. 

I will post pics and a review after I get to 5 posts and after some saddle/road time on the Z6.

Thanks very much.

Jon


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

TDI Hoo said:


> I am new to this forum and to Felt bikes. I ordered a 2012 Z6 last week and it should be in this week. I was fitted at my LBS on a Z95 and the fit was comfortable, like a glove, as I rode for a few miles in the neighborhood.
> 
> 1. But does the carbon frame Z6 come from Felt with chain stay protectors?
> 2. What is this chain plate protector and where does it go on the frame? It is on the Felt web page under road parts at $9.99.
> 
> Since this is my first post, I cannot put in the link.
> 
> I will post pics and a review after I get to 5 posts and after some saddle/road time on the Z6.
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Jon


I had an 11 F4. It did not have the chainstay protector. Had an issue with damage to the chainstay and was told by LBS that it was chain suck. Felt would not warranty it and offered a crash replacement.
Then the FC frame was such a long lead time that I ended up getting a new f4 frame. As far as I know all the f series get the chainstay protector standard now (perhaps a tacit admission that there was a CPI issue being addressed?). 
The whole incident stung me over $800, so if your z6 doesn't have it (the protector) my advice would be to get it


----------



## TDI Hoo

Thank you, wotnoshoeseh. I will update about the chainstay prrotector when the shop has the bike ready to be fitted. 
Anyone know where the "Chain Plate Protector" goes? SuperdaveFelt?


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> I am new to this forum and to Felt bikes. I ordered a 2012 Z6 last week and it should be in this week. I was fitted at my LBS on a Z95 and the fit was comfortable, like a glove, as I rode for a few miles in the neighborhood.
> 
> 1. But does the carbon frame Z6 come from Felt with chain stay protectors?
> 2. What is this chain plate protector and where does it go on the frame? It is on the Felt web page under road parts at $9.99.
> 
> Since this is my first post, I cannot put in the link.
> 
> I will post pics and a review after I get to 5 posts and after some saddle/road time on the Z6.
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Jon


The Z6's threaded BB shell and chainstay shape will not allow the F-series cable plate to attach or fit the frame. The narrower profile of the stays and longer wheelbase also prevent the chain from being so close to the frame. The Z series bikes were designed to be compatible with a triple crankset; something you can't use on the F-series. 

Congrats on the new bike,
-SD


----------



## Imaking20

Mine has already been appreciated


----------



## Unit 91

Just picked up a 2012 AR5 tonight. Only rode it a few blocks, but am incredibly stoked so far. Looking forward to my first 'big' ride Saturday.

Amazingly gorgeous bike. 

My only question would be... where can I get some Felt stickers?

Cheers.


----------



## jpaschal01

Unit 91 said:


> Just picked up a 2012 AR5 tonight. Only rode it a few blocks, but am incredibly stoked so far. Looking forward to my first 'big' ride Saturday.
> 
> Amazingly gorgeous bike.
> 
> My only question would be... where can I get some Felt stickers?
> 
> Cheers.


They sell them on the Felt Website.


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

On the Felt website.


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## Superdave3T

The Felt Dealer where you purchased your bike should be able to get you just about any size decal you could want. From 1cm x 4cm to roof-rack fairing sized decals. 

Alternatively, If you are in the USA you can try here:
http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2012/Parts/Accessories.aspx

-SD


----------



## Unit 91

Yeah, great. Thanks. 

FYI, most companies would say thank you for the purchase and offer to help with something so stupid as a decal. I like my bike, but your response was pretty lame. I'll look elsewhere for my second even though I love my AR so much.

Even the NHL sent a nobody like me decals I asked for. Taking care to please the people that ultimately let you enjoy your job can't be that hard, can it? I know I appreciate my customers.


----------



## jpaschal01

Unit 91 said:


> Yeah, great. Thanks.
> 
> FYI, most companies would say thank you for the purchase and offer to help with something so stupid as a decal. I like my bike, but your response was pretty lame. I'll look elsewhere for my second even though I love my AR so much.
> 
> Even the NHL sent a nobody like me decals I asked for. Taking care to please the people that ultimately let you enjoy your job can't be that hard, can it? I know I appreciate my customers.


WOW! One of the few manufacturers that has a knowledgeable representative take time to peruse this site and offer help and your gonna blast him for not offering up a freebie?!?


----------



## Phatz85

Does that mean you're not going to back to the lbs that sold you the bike because they didn't give them to you either?


----------



## Unit 91

Sorry, I was in a crabby mood when I wrote that. Apologies. It is really cool that he takes his time to answer questions. Taking unrelated matters out randomly on the internet! Again, sorry.

Heading out to ride in a few minutes actually. Still loving the bike.


----------



## RaiderJM

wpcouch said:


> The F6 actually uses a unique fork, with an aluminum steerer, whereas all other F-forks use a carbon steerer. Also, it should be noted that the F6 uses an English Threaded BB, NOT a BB30.


Hey guys, new poster here and just looking through all the great information from Felt. First off, I think it's awesome you guys are here answering customer and perspective customer questions!

I'm looking at purchasing an entry level carbon bike and really like the Felt F series. I'm someone who has spent a lot of time on a trainer in the past, but am looking to get into more group rides, tri's, etc and this will be my first road bike. Love the look of the F6 and the fact that it is under $2k. However, when I noticed it did not have BB30, I was wondering how much of a concern that is. How significant are the frame differences between the F5 vs F6? Does it make sense to spend the extra money for the F5 or would it be better spent on other accessories if I don't have a SRAM vs Shimano preference?

For reference, of the bikes I've ridden, I like the F6 and SuperSix 6 best, but am now thinking I need to go ride an F6 vs F5 as well so if you have any opinions (even biased opinions :wink5 between those models, I would appreciate it!


----------



## Superdave3T

RaiderJM said:


> Hey guys, new poster here and just looking through all the great information from Felt. First off, I think it's awesome you guys are here answering customer and perspective customer questions!
> 
> I'm looking at purchasing an entry level carbon bike and really like the Felt F series. I'm someone who has spent a lot of time on a trainer in the past, but am looking to get into more group rides, tri's, etc and this will be my first road bike. Love the look of the F6 and the fact that it is under $2k. However, when I noticed it did not have BB30, I was wondering how much of a concern that is. How significant are the frame differences between the F5 vs F6? Does it make sense to spend the extra money for the F5 or would it be better spent on other accessories if I don't have a SRAM vs Shimano preference?
> 
> For reference, of the bikes I've ridden, I like the F6 and SuperSix 6 best, but am now thinking I need to go ride an F6 vs F5 as well so if you have any opinions (even biased opinions :wink5 between those models, I would appreciate it!


BB30 is not really something you'll miss unless you decide to upgrade your crankset later. Even still, you may decide later to upgrade and still not need BB30. Shimano has not adopted a BB30 bottom bracket for their cranksets for example. 

You've really made it tough to help narrow your decision down if you aren't a true SRAM or Shimano lover. The two frames are identical; F5 = F6. The biggest difference in cost comes from the F5's crankset and fork but the biggest difference in performance comes from the drivetrain. Apex has the more deliberate mechanical shift an linear brake feel. Shimano has a lighter action and less defined actuation of the derailleurs with a much more progressive braking feel.

I always encourage buying the best frame+fork package you can afford and leave the small nut-n-bolt upgrades for later.

With that said, if your budget is $2k, make sure you leave room for bottles & cages, a nice pair of shorts or 3, saddle bag, flat repair items, etc.

Good luck with your decision.
-SD


----------



## RaiderJM

SuperdaveFelt said:


> BB30 is not really something you'll miss unless you decide to upgrade your crankset later. Even still, you may decide later to upgrade and still not need BB30. Shimano has not adopted a BB30 bottom bracket for their cranksets for example.
> 
> You've really made it tough to help narrow your decision down if you aren't a true SRAM or Shimano lover. The two frames are identical; F5 = F6. The biggest difference in cost comes from the F5's crankset and fork but the biggest difference in performance comes from the drivetrain. Apex has the more deliberate mechanical shift an linear brake feel. Shimano has a lighter action and less defined actuation of the derailleurs with a much more progressive braking feel.
> 
> I always encourage buying the best frame+fork package you can afford and leave the small nut-n-bolt upgrades for later.
> 
> With that said, if your budget is $2k, make sure you leave room for bottles & cages, a nice pair of shorts or 3, saddle bag, flat repair items, etc.
> 
> Good luck with your decision.
> -SD


Thanks for the response, SD! 

Honestly, budget isn't much of a concern other than with this being my first road bike, I don't want to get too crazy. That's also why I don't have a strong Shimano vs Apex opinion. In riding the bikes, Shimano feels a bit more natural to me, but I can get used to either in no time. The difference in cost between the two is less important to me than just understanding the difference in the starting point for future upgrades. So, to your point about buying the best frame and fork, it sounds like there is at least a fork advantage with the F5. However, does most of the 1.2lb weight gain from the F5 come from "nuts & bolts" then? 

Thanks again!
JM


----------



## Imaking20

Personally, I would put more focus on the group than the BB. The absence of a BB30 isn't really a killer in most situations - especially if you're not a super powerful rider and/or have issues with ankle clearance.


...actually, having just looked at the specs on the two - personally I would take the F6 with Apex over the F5 with 105... simply because I prefer SRAM. Also, if you look to start upgrading bits - you'll find a lot better deals on GXP cranks than on BB30.

The F series is a fantastic bike - I'm sure you'll be happy either way!



edit: and now having noticed that there is another page with responses since your first post mad2 I'd say if Shimano feels more comfortable - go with that!


----------



## Superdave3T

RaiderJM said:


> Thanks for the response, SD!
> 
> Honestly, budget isn't much of a concern other than with this being my first road bike, I don't want to get too crazy. That's also why I don't have a strong Shimano vs Apex opinion. In riding the bikes, Shimano feels a bit more natural to me, but I can get used to either in no time. The difference in cost between the two is less important to me than just understanding the difference in the starting point for future upgrades. So, to your point about buying the best frame and fork, it sounds like there is at least a fork advantage with the F5. However, does most of the 1.2lb weight gain from the F5 come from "nuts & bolts" then?
> 
> Thanks again!
> JM


Yes, the weight difference is accounted in the components. The frames are identical. Even the 105 parts from 2011 and 2012 are the same so if you can find a 2011 (unlikely) you may find a better deal. Either way I'd suggest the F5 given your set of circumstances.

-SD


----------



## RaiderJM

Thanks again, SD!


----------



## Miles42

As a first time road bike buyer at age 69 after reading this thread I really feel good about my choice of going with a Felt. Just narrowed it down to the Z85 or Z6. I am off to the dealer this week for final pick.


----------



## JoeFeltF5

*Internal Cables on an F5*

Hi Guys
Another question for FELT, I have a 2012 F5 and very happy with the out of box package, but I got to thinking it would be nice to route the cables inside the frame. Is this possible on an F5 and which cables, i.e the derailer only?

Thanks
Joe


----------



## Superdave3T

JoeFeltF5 said:


> Hi Guys
> Another question for FELT, I have a 2012 F5 and very happy with the out of box package, but I got to thinking it would be nice to route the cables inside the frame. Is this possible on an F5 and which cables, i.e the derailer only?
> 
> Thanks
> Joe


Internal cable routing on the F-series is only offered for EPS and Di2 equipped bikes. The purpose of the F-series is to achieve the highest possible stiffness to weight. Creating large holes in the frame for cable routing and adding complexity to servicing and routing a bike thats purpose is day-in and day-out racing goes against the deisgn intent.

-SD


----------



## neoRoadBiker

After looking around at quite a few LBS in my area and researching online, I'm coming down to the conclusion of buying a Felt bike and would like to pick up your brains for a minute.

Have a little experience with road biking (bought a Fuji SL in 2004, but didn't really ride a lot a just sold it, it was actually a little too big at 58). I'm looking into really riding now as it will be my primary endurance exercise (knee surgery).

I plan on not only riding on the weekends but also signing up for races and triathlons here and there, once the knee is fully recovered. With a budget of about $2000 what Felt model would you recommend? I'm seriously considering the F5 but also keeping my eyes on the AR5 and the Z5 as the last one on the list.

Thanks
J


----------



## Superdave3T

neoRoadBiker said:


> After looking around at quite a few LBS in my area and researching online, I'm coming down to the conclusion of buying a Felt bike and would like to pick up your brains for a minute.
> 
> Have a little experience with road biking (bought a Fuji SL in 2004, but didn't really ride a lot a just sold it, it was actually a little too big at 58). I'm looking into really riding now as it will be my primary endurance exercise (knee surgery).
> 
> I plan on not only riding on the weekends but also signing up for races and triathlons here and there, once the knee is fully recovered. With a budget of about $2000 what Felt model would you recommend? I'm seriously considering the F5 but also keeping my eyes on the AR5 and the Z5 as the last one on the list.
> 
> Thanks
> J


J,

Thanks for considering Felt. Your experience with the Fuji probably has as much to do with getting the wrong size and fit than it does the bike itself. Fuji makes some nice stuff.

As for Felt and your plans, the easy answer is the AR5 - if you can find one for $2000, buy it.

If you have $2000 to spend on the sport and need additional equipment (clothes, tube, tools, helmet, etc...) then I'd take a look at the Z6.

The AR series is probably the best all-around race bike we offer if high milage, road racing and triathlons are all on your to-do list.

I spend a great deal of time travelling and enjoy riding as much as possible during these trips. I use an AR as my "travel bike" because I never know what type of riding or events I'll find myself doing. I've done road races, time trials, and hill climb events on my AR while in Asia. Sure I would have preferred my DA in the time trials and my F1 on the hill climb event, but I had to choose one bike and the AR has been the best tool for the job.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.


-SD


----------



## neoRoadBiker

SuperdaveFelt said:


> J,
> 
> Thanks for considering Felt. Your experience with the Fuji probably has as much to do with getting the wrong size and fit than it does the bike itself. Fuji makes some nice stuff.
> 
> As for Felt and your plans, the easy answer is the AR5 - if you can find one for $2000, buy it.
> 
> If you have $2000 to spend on the sport and need additional equipment (clothes, tube, tools, helmet, etc...) then I'd take a look at the Z6.
> 
> The AR series is probably the best all-around race bike we offer if high milage, road racing and triathlons are all on your to-do list.
> 
> I spend a great deal of time travelling and enjoy riding as much as possible during these trips. I use an AR as my "travel bike" because I never know what type of riding or events I'll find myself doing. I've done road races, time trials, and hill climb events on my AR while in Asia. Sure I would have preferred my DA in the time trials and my F1 on the hill climb event, but I had to choose one bike and the AR has been the best tool for the job.
> 
> Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
> 
> 
> -SD


SD,

Thanks for your quick reply. It is pretty amazing that you actually take the time to stay in touch with your costumers and provide the quality of information you do.

It is very clear that the AR5 will be a little over my self imposed budget but not something that can't be fixed. You just touched my issue real well. I want to purchase a "multipurpose bike" that I can take out for different type of rides and wanted some real life honest opinion.

After research I have fallen in love with Felt bicycles and I'm looking forward to purchase and ride your machines, plus after all, I live about 20 miles away from Mr. Jim Felt here in NorCal.

Keep up developing great bicycles and I'm sure I'll be back here with more postings and photos once I get my bike.

-J


----------



## TDI Hoo

TDI Hoo said:


> I am new to this forum and to Felt bikes. I ordered a 2012 Z6 last week and it should be in this week. I was fitted at my LBS on a Z95 and the fit was comfortable, like a glove, as I rode for a few miles in the neighborhood.
> 
> 1. But does the carbon frame Z6 come from Felt with chain stay protectors?
> 2. What is this chain plate protector and where does it go on the frame? It is on the Felt web page under road parts at $9.99.
> 
> Since this is my first post, I cannot put in the link.
> 
> I will post pics and a review after I get to 5 posts and after some saddle/road time on the Z6.
> 
> Thanks very much.
> 
> Jon


Finally was fitted on my 2012 Z6 today. Went for a 20 mile spin this afternoon. Fantastic bike. Yes, the chain stay does have a clear plastic protector. I will post pictures and a full review when I get the chance after a few more rides. The Tiagra 20 speed setup is just fine for my level of expertise. I was about 2 mph faster than I was on my old Bridgestone City Bike CB Zip, and I was getting acclimated to Look pedals, coming from SPD. Carbon fiber is much more comfortable than Cro Mo steel. I still have all the spacers on, and will wait unitl I am back in fit shape before lowering the bars. Had my hip replaced 10 months ago, and this frame is ideal for me. 

I, too, am waiting for Felt carbon water bottle brackets to be back in stock.


----------



## jmorgan

The matte black blackburn carbon fiber bottle holder looks great on my Z6, the carbon matches the carbon on the bike very well, I didn't want to wait for felt ones to come in and they are shinny and don't really match the Z6 as well, thats just my opinion.


----------



## Dray3573

I was thinking of turning my 2011 F5 from a gloss to a matte finish. Does anyone have any suggestions on making this happen. A local carbon bike builder said they could for about $650 by repainting the clear coat, but I wasn't planning on spending that much. I really like the matte finish on the FC and thought hmm, that would look sharp on my F5.


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

Anyone know wjere I could pick up some orange bottle cages? I have a F4 with the orange highlights, along with orange bar tape, and would like some options for the bottle cages, that might match.

Thanks,
D


----------



## jpaschal01

wotnoshoeseh said:


> Anyone know wjere I could pick up some orange bottle cages? I have a F4 with the orange highlights, along with orange bar tape, and would like some options for the bottle cages, that might match.
> 
> Thanks,
> D


I did a google search and could only come up with orange wire bottle cages. They certainly wouldn't match the sleekness of your F4. I'm guessing you'll have to go with black or silver.


----------



## dumalam

Hi. does anyone know if 27mm or 28mm tires will fit on the front and rear of Felt road bikes? Specifically the F75, F5 or F6, 2011 or 2012? Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

dumalam said:


> Hi. does anyone know if 27mm or 28mm tires will fit on the front and rear of Felt road bikes? Specifically the F75, F5 or F6, 2011 or 2012? Thanks.


I'm not aware of a 28mm tire that will fit in the frame and provide enough clearance at the brake calipers. 25mm is no problem. The 27mm size is a bit less common and it is possible there would be _just_ enough room. The production bikes have ~5mm of clearance between the tire and the frame. The F-series comes with 23mm tires out of the box.

-SD


----------



## st123

dumalam said:


> Hi. does anyone know if 27mm or 28mm tires will fit on the front and rear of Felt road bikes? Specifically the F75, F5 or F6, 2011 or 2012? Thanks.


After the Belgian race the "scheldeprijs" , I had a close look at the F1's of the Argos 1t4i-
team and they were using 25 mm vittoria tubulars. ( and they won the race btw!)


----------



## dumalam

OK thanks. Actually I think most road bikes these days are like that with a max of 25mm, but thought there might be a chance. Maybe cross will be the way to go after all.


----------



## Chico2000

Dear SuperDave and other Felt riders,

I have a 2011 Z 85. I'm not sure who makes the brakes on this bike, but I'm looking to replace the brake pads soon. What pads will fit in those holders?

I was thinking about the Swisstop flash (green) but not sure if they'll fit.

Thanks.


----------



## jpaschal01

wotnoshoeseh said:


> Anyone know wjere I could pick up some orange bottle cages? I have a F4 with the orange highlights, along with orange bar tape, and would like some options for the bottle cages, that might match.
> 
> Thanks,
> D


A guy in the Cannondale forum just picked up these for his CAAD 10: http://www.bikesonline.com/velocity-trap-water-bottle-cage-orange.htm
He said they aren't the easiest to get bottles out of though.


----------



## waford163

Hi - I am new to this forum. I took up cycling a few months ago and. after a couple of Ebay bikes have decided to buy a new bike. After much consideration I have decided to buy an F75. 

My curent bile is a Scott Speedster S50 and the saddle gives me really bad numbness, l have tried the F75 only for a short ride but am certain I will get the same problem. My local LSB lent me a Brooks saddle (a B17 I think) and it was much better. I really liked it. I really like the fact that it is a design that has stood the test of time, they have been made for over 100 years!!

I guess my question is twofold:

1) Has anyone got experience of these sadlles - they're not cheap?
2) Is it sacriligeous to put such an old style saddle on a modern bike?


----------



## waford163

*Saddles?*

Hi - I am new to this forum. I took up cycling a few months ago and. after a couple of Ebay bikes have decided to buy a new bike. After much consideration I have decided to buy an F75. 

My curent bike is a Scott Speedster S50 and the saddle gives me really bad numbness, l have tried the F75 only for a short ride but am certain I will get the same problem. My local LSB lent me a Brooks saddle (a B17 I think) and it was much better. I really liked it. I really like the fact that it is a design that has stood the test of time, they have been made for over 100 years!!

I guess my question is twofold:

1) Has anyone got experience of these sadlles - they're not cheap?
2) Is it sacriligeous to put such an old style saddle on a modern bike?


----------



## jmorgan

There's no way I could do it. The Felt seat actually works very well for me after fine tuning it, very little (think cm-mm) adjustments can make a huge difference in a saddle.


----------



## Big Teggie

SuperDave/ wpcouch

Hey guys, I have a 2011 Z85 and just picked up a Devox saddle.

I went to install it the other day and noticed the rails on the Devox saddle are oval, and the original saddle has round rails. I didnt install the new saddle becuase it seemed that I would have to force the rails to fit the seatpost.

Do you reccomend a seatpost I should get for the Devox saddle, or are there some modifications I can do to the orginal seatpost to make it work properly.

Thanks!


----------



## WI B16

*2009 Felt B-16*

On 2009 B-16 how does one tighten the brake lever at the end of the bull bars? My front brake lever has gotten slightly loose by that I mean it can swivel a bit in the tube end of the bars. I've looked carefully but can not see any evident way to tighten this. How are they attached and how does one fix this?


----------



## yorkcb7

SuperdaveFelt said:


> J,
> 
> Thanks for considering Felt.
> 
> 
> -SD


Good Morning SD,

Looking for some Insight and for you to sell me on a bike. Getting a TT/Tri bike, Currently riding a F4. I am looking at a 2011 B16 and a 2012 B16. I am putting an Ultegra crank on, a Fizik Saddle and Zipp Vuka aero bars. Getting a pretty good price quote for either, around 2400-2700$. Could you give me some insight into differences in either bike and also if it would be better to bight the bullet and get into DA from or even the B12. Money is not much of an issue, but the DA is at the top end and would have to get stock! Let me know what you got for insight also other felt drivers chime in. I am looking to place an order this weekend.


----------



## Imaking20

Big Teggie said:


> SuperDave/ wpcouch
> 
> Hey guys, I have a 2011 Z85 and just picked up a Devox saddle.
> 
> I went to install it the other day and noticed the rails on the Devox saddle are oval, and the original saddle has round rails. I didnt install the new saddle becuase it seemed that I would have to force the rails to fit the seatpost.
> 
> Do you reccomend a seatpost I should get for the Devox saddle, or are there some modifications I can do to the orginal seatpost to make it work properly.
> 
> Thanks!


You need a seatpost with a 2 bolt clamp that tightens top-to-bottom on the rails and not side-to-side. I use a Thomson post with zero issue on two different carbon railed saddles.


----------



## Z6_esb

*2012 Z6 Weight and Popping sound*

1. I was looking through the Z-Series line up on the site and noticed that the Z6 is the only one that doesn't have a weight listed? Is there a reason for this?

2. every once in a while when I get out of the saddle to sprint or go up a hill, I hear a metal popping sound. Is that cable stretching or spoke noise? Should I be concerned?

2012 Felt Z6 with 500ish miles on it.


----------



## jasonandrew76

*Touch up paint for 2012 Z4*

Is there a way of obtaining a small bottle or amount of the dupont blue paint of the 2012 Z4? I threw a chain off the inside one time (in 2000 miles) and wouldnt you know it....it chipped the paint:mad2: Is it as simple as getting with a Dupont paint dealer or is it a special paint thats not readily available? Thanks in advance for any help i can get

JP


----------



## PBE

2011 AR5 - any issues of upgrading to a ultegra di2 setup?


----------



## TDI Hoo

This is a question for SuperDaveFelt:

I purchased a 2012 Z6. I am thoroughly enjoying it. You wrote in a thread about the 2012 Z6 the following:

"Tiagra is less expensive than 105 but it does offer some unique features that position it with some consumers as the better group. The Tiagra shifter cable routing is less prone to degrading from contamination or poor wire/housing performance. The Tiagra shifter offers a gear indicator. *The Tiagra shifter offers an adjuster barrel at the brake hood for on-the-fly adjustment if required. *The Tiagra drivetrain will now accept a cassette as large as 30T in the back (it comes with a 12-30t). 2011 would only accept a 28t. The wheels were lightened up. The brake calipers are lighter as well with a reconfigured design that offers slightly less power at the initial cable stroke then increased power after the pad contacts the rim. The brakes also have more tire clearance. The saddle is now a dual density design featuring a large recess and two different foam densities for a more comfortable ride that doesn't increase soft tissue pressure.

You get all these improvements in 2012 and the price stays the same. Stable pricing when the US dollar has fallen against all other currencies (Yen, RMB, NTD, Euro, etc...) involved in sourcing a bicycle is a real feat."

My Z6 does not have the barrel adjuster for the derailleurs. Neither does the Z6 in this Youtube video: youtube.com/watch?v=I3JtNepPQ2g
(Just search 2012 Felt Z6. I cannot post links yet.)

Shimano does show the adjuster in their Tiagra instructions: 
techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-4600-3154_v1_m56577569830750055.pdf

Number 4 is the adjuster; number 7 is what I have and what is in the video. 

So, did Felt change this? Or did my LBS just not install it? Or can I ask Felt to send me the parts and have my LBS install them? 
Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> This is a question for SuperDaveFelt:
> 
> I purchased a 2012 Z6. I am thoroughly enjoying it. You wrote in a thread about the 2012 Z6 the following:
> 
> "Tiagra is less expensive than 105 but it does offer some unique features that position it with some consumers as the better group. The Tiagra shifter cable routing is less prone to degrading from contamination or poor wire/housing performance. The Tiagra shifter offers a gear indicator. *The Tiagra shifter offers an adjuster barrel at the brake hood for on-the-fly adjustment if required. *The Tiagra drivetrain will now accept a cassette as large as 30T in the back (it comes with a 12-30t). 2011 would only accept a 28t. The wheels were lightened up. The brake calipers are lighter as well with a reconfigured design that offers slightly less power at the initial cable stroke then increased power after the pad contacts the rim. The brakes also have more tire clearance. The saddle is now a dual density design featuring a large recess and two different foam densities for a more comfortable ride that doesn't increase soft tissue pressure.
> 
> You get all these improvements in 2012 and the price stays the same. Stable pricing when the US dollar has fallen against all other currencies (Yen, RMB, NTD, Euro, etc...) involved in sourcing a bicycle is a real feat."
> 
> My Z6 does not have the barrel adjuster for the derailleurs. Neither does the Z6 in this Youtube video: youtube.com/watch?v=I3JtNepPQ2g
> (Just search 2012 Felt Z6. I cannot post links yet.)
> 
> Shimano does show the adjuster in their Tiagra instructions:
> techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-4600-3154_v1_m56577569830750055.pdf
> 
> Number 4 is the adjuster; number 7 is what I have and what is in the video.
> 
> So, did Felt change this? Or did my LBS just not install it? Or can I ask Felt to send me the parts and have my LBS install them?
> Thanks!


Thank you for your purchase, the Z6 has been a great seller for us. The ride quality of the Z bike is very difficult to quantify in a catalog or website description but a test ride speaks volumes and is the deciding factor for so many consumers. 

Felt includes the adjuster on the frame's downtube. There is no need for a 2nd (or 3rd) adjuster at the shifter. Some models like our AR series or our F1 and F2 do not have adjusters at the downtube so I would have included them with the shifter if we made Tiagra versions of those bikes.

In any case, you've got "cockpit" adjusters on the bike so fine tuning on the fly is possible.

Enjoy the bike,

-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Thank you for your purchase, the Z6 has been a great seller for us. The ride quality of the Z bike is very difficult to quantify in a catalog or website description but a test ride speaks volumes and is the deciding factor for so many consumers.
> 
> Felt includes the adjuster on the frame's downtube. There is no need for a 2nd (or 3rd) adjuster at the shifter. Some models like our AR series or our F1 and F2 do not have adjusters at the downtube so I would have included them with the shifter if we made Tiagra versions of those bikes.
> 
> In any case, you've got "cockpit" adjusters on the bike so fine tuning on the fly is possible.
> 
> Enjoy the bike,
> 
> -SD


Thanks, SD! Here, I have been riding the Z6 for 3 weeks, now up to 30 miles a day, and I have been fine tuning the rear derailleur with the adjuster at the rear. Ughh. Didn't think to use the adjusters on the down tube. Felt and you, Dave are just on top of things. Thoughtful design touches like adjusters on the down tube add value to the bike. My old Bridgestone bike was not adjustable on the fly. 

I must agree that the Z ride, though subjective, was the ticket. After today's ride over broken up/frost heaved country farm roads in the rolling hills in the central Virginia countryside, I am thrilled with the ride comfort of the Z series and also with the performance, speed, stiffness, and control. The Felt web page is also informative. And my LBS had a Felt F series tester with Di2. Wow! Someday..... I was told the holes in the Z6 chain stay are for Di2. Time to dream about that. 

And this Ask Felt thread is much better than an online owner's manual. Thanks for your input and answers, Dave.


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperDave,

Just want to know if you are Dave Koesel from the Felt website and Youtube videos. If so, we are lucky to have your insight and answers. And if so, I understand you are an avid cyclist with some tremendous racing success. Cheers, and thanks for hanging out in this forum.  

Trying to talk my wife into a ZW 95. Back to the LBS this weekend.


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> Just want to know if you are Dave Koesel from the Felt website and Youtube videos. If so, we are lucky to have your insight and answers. And if so, I understand you are an avid cyclist with some tremendous racing success. Cheers, and thanks for hanging out in this forum.
> 
> Trying to talk my wife into a ZW 95. Back to the LBS this weekend.


Yes, same guy. Thanks for the encouragement. My success has come from the hard work of the unseen in my cycing and professional career, I'm the lucky one.

-SD


----------



## Chico2000

Dave,
Do you think you can get me an answer to my brake pad question I posted a while back? 
Thanks.


----------



## jmorgan

Chico2000 said:


> Dave,
> Do you think you can get me an answer to my brake pad question I posted a while back?
> Thanks.


They will fit, you will need a 2.5mm hex wrench (I think) to take out the little bolt that holds them in.


----------



## jasonandrew76

Z6_esb said:


> 1. I was looking through the Z-Series line up on the site and noticed that the Z6 is the only one that doesn't have a weight listed? Is there a reason for this?
> 
> 2. every once in a while when I get out of the saddle to sprint or go up a hill, I hear a metal popping sound. Is that cable stretching or spoke noise? Should I be concerned?
> 
> 2012 Felt Z6 with 500ish miles on it.


I had a clicking sound on my Z4 that i thought was my bottom bracket until i noticed it wasnt happening when i was without water bottles. Turned out to be the bottle cage bolts/bottles making noise. Im not sure if they are too tight or too loose because i havent been back out with the bottles yet to tinker with it. Ill figure it out tonight though. Im guessing too loose considering i noticed two of them were indeed quite loose and i made a point not to overtighten those on a carbon frame. Anybody know what the correct torque is on the bottle cage bolts?


----------



## Superdave3T

jasonandrew76 said:


> I had a clicking sound on my Z4 that i thought was my bottom bracket until i noticed it wasnt happening when i was without water bottles. Turned out to be the bottle cage bolts/bottles making noise. Im not sure if they are too tight or too loose because i havent been back out with the bottles yet to tinker with it. Ill figure it out tonight though. Im guessing too loose considering i noticed two of them were indeed quite loose and i made a point not to overtighten those on a carbon frame. Anybody know what the correct torque is on the bottle cage bolts?


The stock bolts are aluminum, do not exceed 2.8Nm.

-SD


----------



## jroden

waford163 said:


> Hi - I am new to this forum. I took up cycling a few months ago and. after a couple of Ebay bikes have decided to buy a new bike. After much consideration I have decided to buy an F75.
> 
> My curent bike is a Scott Speedster S50 and the saddle gives me really bad numbness, l have tried the F75 only for a short ride but am certain I will get the same problem. My local LSB lent me a Brooks saddle (a B17 I think) and it was much better. I really liked it. I really like the fact that it is a design that has stood the test of time, they have been made for over 100 years!!
> 
> I guess my question is twofold:
> 
> 1) Has anyone got experience of these sadlles - they're not cheap?
> 2) Is it sacriligeous to put such an old style saddle on a modern bike?


Have you tried some of the older style synthetic saddles like the Rolls or Corcor? The brooks is pretty heavy and I found it hard to get it to work correctly with a modern racing bike, plus the pricing on those is kind of crazy. The good news is you can sell it pretty easy, keep the box and such. I tried the swallow and professional and did not like either, and I like old saddles. I don't much like the one on my felt, I ditched it after the first day.

You can put whatever saddle you like on your expensive bike. I put a damn mirror on mine sometimes, some cat 4 know it all wants to make fun of me, let 'em.


----------



## Bubba Hotep

*Felt FA frame coming back, part deu?*

I've seen one semi-recent inquiry regarding the FA but didn't see any hard info on whether it's available in 2012.

Can it be ordered thru my local dealer (especially in a 61cm size) and it so, is it the old F75 frame with the carbon seat stays? I certainly hope so because that's exactly what I'm looking for to build up a spare to my ti road bike.

Any guidance is welcome,

Bubba H.


----------



## Bubba Hotep

I see SuperDave answered my question elsewhere about the 2012 FA frames. Thanks very much for your response even tho I am disappointed that there will be no FA frames with the carbon seat stays, just all aluminum with the carbon fork. (But I guess I already knew that one. Just wanted to make sure). I've ridden an aluminum cyclocross bike on the road. It had carbon seat stays (it was fitted with road tires) and I liked it very much. I figured a road bike with the same frame configuration would be nice.

Now I have to decide if I want to own an aluminum bike as a spare machine after riding only a ti frame for 18 years. Not putting that type of frame down; I just don't know what the new aluminum frames are like. Dealers don't usually stock anything over a 56-58cm frame within 200 miles of here so I that can try one out for any meaningful distance.


----------



## dumalam

*Carbon Disc Cross*

I know companies usually like to announce new models at the bike shows, but is it possible to get a time frame for the availability of the (rumoured) Felt carbon disc bikes/frames for next season? Are we talking late summer, early autumn, or only next spring? It would help with making some decisions right now. And of course any details of the groupsets/components/colours/prices would be nice though I guess that's a long shot, even though we have seen next seasons offerings from some companies like Raleigh. Thanks.


----------



## JockeyWheel

*Carbon BB shell assembly lube?*

Well, I've joined the fold. Just took delivery of my shiny new F1 frameset. I'm very excited to start the build.

I asked this question in another thread but didn't get any responses so I thought I'd ask Felt.

This is the first frame I've owned with a carbon BB shell. Normally I would just apply a little grease on the outer race before pressing the bearings in, but I've seen some lubes that specifically say not to use it on carbon fiber. What does Felt recommend for assembly lube for the bottom bracket? Same for the headset, what is recommended for the carbon contact surfaces?

While I'm asking, might as well throw this one on the pile. I understand that all the warning labels use a low grade adhesive for easy removal, but what about the sticker with the frame size? It's placed in a somewhat awkward looking spot, on top of some of the Felt graphics on the seat tube, so it seems like it is to be removed. If I start peeling this off, though, am I going to curse myself when I find that it's bonded on with something more permanent?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## JockeyWheel

Anyone?


----------



## Superdave3T

JockeyWheel said:


> Well, I've joined the fold. Just took delivery of my shiny new F1 frameset. I'm very excited to start the build.
> 
> I asked this question in another thread but didn't get any responses so I thought I'd ask Felt.
> 
> This is the first frame I've owned with a carbon BB shell. Normally I would just apply a little grease on the outer race before pressing the bearings in, but I've seen some lubes that specifically say not to use it on carbon fiber. What does Felt recommend for assembly lube for the bottom bracket? Same for the headset, what is recommended for the carbon contact surfaces?
> 
> While I'm asking, might as well throw this one on the pile. I understand that all the warning labels use a low grade adhesive for easy removal, but what about the sticker with the frame size? It's placed in a somewhat awkward looking spot, on top of some of the Felt graphics on the seat tube, so it seems like it is to be removed. If I start peeling this off, though, am I going to curse myself when I find that it's bonded on with something more permanent?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


For the BB I use an anti-seize agent like Ti-prep.
For the headset, there are no contact points with the headset and the carbon frame. Use a thin layer of grease on the ALUMINUM cups in the frame. Do not lubricate the fork's carbon crown race or steerer tube whatsoever. Clean and dry will keep them performing as designed.

Low-grade adhesive is used on the size decal, just like the warning decals. They are indeed designed for easy removal but please heed the warnings.


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> For the BB I use an anti-seize agent like Ti-prep.
> For the headset, there are no contact points with the headset and the carbon frame. Use a thin layer of grease on the ALUMINUM cups in the frame. Do not lubricate the fork's carbon crown race or steerer tube whatsoever. Clean and dry will keep them performing as designed.
> 
> Low-grade adhesive is used on the size decal, just like the warning decals. They are indeed designed for easy removal but please heed the warnings.


Thanks, SD. Clean and dry it is, for the fork (hadn't actually considered greasing the steerer).

Aluminum cups? Is the headtube race a pressed-in aluminum cup? I don't have the frame in front of me to inspect but in briefly examining it, I would have sworn I was looking at a molded carbon cup in the head tube. I guess with the bb shell and fork crown race being carbon, I just assumed the headtube race was carbon as well.

I have indeed read the warnings and will heed them. I even got myself a new carbon friendly work stand to replace my old tube crusher type for this build. 

Thanks again.


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> For the BB I use an anti-seize agent like Ti-prep.
> For the headset, there are no contact points with the headset and the carbon frame. Use a thin layer of grease on the ALUMINUM cups in the frame. ...


Okay, I've had a chance to take a look at the headtube again and I'm still sure that I'm looking at molded carbon seats for the bearings. This is what makes this frame different for me. Are you saying that because these are not aluminum they don't get the same thin layer of grease or perhaps the other F-series frames do have aluminum cups and these carbon seats should get treated the same?


----------



## Superdave3T

JockeyWheel said:


> Okay, I've had a chance to take a look at the headtube again and I'm still sure that I'm looking at molded carbon seats for the bearings. This is what makes this frame different for me. Are you saying that because these are not aluminum they don't get the same thin layer of grease or perhaps the other F-series frames do have aluminum cups and these carbon seats should get treated the same?


I must not be explaining it correctly. The contact surfaces in the frame where the bearings rest are made from machined aluminum. These surfaces are co-molded into the frame during construction. Using a light film of grease here is recommended.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I must not be explaining it correctly. The contact surfaces in the frame where the bearings rest are made from machined aluminum. These surfaces are co-molded into the frame during construction. Using a light film of grease here is recommended.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


No, you were explaining it perfectly fine. The confusion came because even with a close inspection of the headtube, it is very difficult to tell that those are aluminum. With the way they are molded and the black surface color, they look very much like the surrounding carbon.

So, with me believing that those were carbon I asked a question that didn't need to be asked, is it okay to use grease on them? If I had correctly identified them as aluminum I'd have just put a light coat of grease on them and been on my way. 

Thanks again for your time, SD.


----------



## davegregoire

Hey SD, 

I have been riding a 2011 Felt F5 and it is a little aggressive for me. I am looking at the 2011 + 2012 Z5 + Z6 and I was wondering if they use the same frameset and different in their use of components or if they are different frames? If they are the same frameset, is it also the same on the Z4?


----------



## Superdave3T

davegregoire said:


> Hey SD,
> 
> I have been riding a 2011 Felt F5 and it is a little aggressive for me. I am looking at the 2011 + 2012 Z5 + Z6 and I was wondering if they use the same frameset and different in their use of components or if they are different frames? If they are the same frameset, is it also the same on the Z4?


Z4, Z5, and Z6 use the same frame but all have different forks.

The Z4 is one sweet ride and probably my favorite color among our Z models.

-SD


----------



## jasonandrew76

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Z4, Z5, and Z6 use the same frame but all have different forks.
> 
> The Z4 is one sweet ride and probably my favorite color among our Z models.
> 
> -SD


I just rocked my Z4 up the Assault on Mt Mitchell this past weekend. 11000 ft of climbing. This bike rocks. Im still a little bummed about not being able to replace the original tires (white rubino pro slick 700x25) but the bike shop is going let me know if they build one out for someone who doesnt want the white tires. In the mean time, Ive some Open Pave Evo's on order and should look sweet. Good suggestion SD! Ill post some pics out here when i get them on. I already get tons of compliments on this bike. Someone actually said "Now there is one bike that can pull off the white tires"


----------



## BubbaBeBiking

Let's climb into the way back machine, shall we? I have a 2004 Felt F90 that I'd like to slip a carbon seatpost into. Does anyone know what size post I would need? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

The seatpost is 27.2mm and the length would be whatever is adequate for your saddle height. Keep ~80mm minimum in the frame. Many seatpost makers offer ROAD and MTB seatposts it is possible that you'll need an MTB seatpost.

Measure twice.

-SD


----------



## VeloAU

*2012 F75 weight by component ...?*

Hi all, SuperDave and and other Felt aficionados ....

I have in my possession a brand new F75 that represents my first foray into this road scene - i have been MTBing ...and now have seen the light :aureola:

I have been out on my new steed a few times and put probably a few hundred kays on her, shes very good and I am very happy with her - 

I was wondering, does anyone have a full list of components and their relative weight for the 2012 model at all ? I have read that I can save significant weight of the steed if i ditch the stock rolling gear and for a few $ get better/lighter ...?

Thanks all for your advice - 

Cheers
Paul


----------



## Superdave3T

VeloAU said:


> Hi all, SuperDave and and other Felt aficionados ....
> 
> I have in my possession a brand new F75 that represents my first foray into this road scene - i have been MTBing ...and now have seen the light :aureola:
> 
> I have been out on my new steed a few times and put probably a few hundred kays on her, shes very good and I am very happy with her -
> 
> I was wondering, does anyone have a full list of components and their relative weight for the 2012 model at all ? I have read that I can save significant weight of the steed if i ditch the stock rolling gear and for a few $ get better/lighter ...?
> 
> Thanks all for your advice -
> 
> Cheers
> Paul


Paul,
Thanks for your purchase, the F75 has been the "first bike" for so many of our customers. The race ready-geometry and stout aluminum frame was actually used by some of Slipstream's pros when we began our relationship with them 5+ years ago. The frame is a distant cousin to the original F1 aluminum bikes Jim developed with Easton in the '90s.

If you're looking to improve the bike "for a few $" I wouldn't look at the wheels. Unless you spend time riding 10% grades lighter wheels will only affect the scale, not the ride. Getting the perfect saddle to suit your posture (if the stock saddle isn't cutting it) and treating yourself to really nice tires is where I steer people. The cup/cone hubs, stainless spokes, aluminum spoke nipples and MAVIC rims are not the lightest wheelset on the market, but the box section rim and conventional lacing make for a good performing wheel well-suited to the overall cost of the bike.

After the initial first-timer road bike purchase, I'd advise the next buy to be:

Shorts
Helmet
Gloves
fitting
perfect saddle (not just a good enough one)
premium 24-25mm tires and superlight tubes

-SD


----------



## bilato

*Who is the Manufacturer of Felt B2 2010, TTR2 wheel´s rear hub and freewheel?*

*Who is the Manufacturer of Felt B2 2010, TTR2 wheel´s rear hub and freewheel?*

Link to Felt's B2 2010 web page:
h ttp://2010.feltracing.com/USA/2010-Product-Catalog/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/B2.aspx

I need a new freewheel for my TTR2 rear wheel of my Belt B2 Time Trial Bike.
Who has manufactured the free wheel and which kind of freewheel I need to replace the old broken one?

Some pictures of my rear hub of TTR2 and it's freewheel:

h ttp://i46.tinypic.com/osg7kn.jpg

h ttp://i48.tinypic.com/289yd6o.jpg

h ttp://i50.tinypic.com/33ljxcm.jpg

h ttp://i50.tinypic.com/15n520i.jpg

h ttp://i47.tinypic.com/f1crh0.jpg


----------



## VeloAU

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Paul,
> Thanks for your purchase, the F75 has been the "first bike" for so many of our customers. The race ready-geometry and stout aluminum frame was actually used by some of Slipstream's pros when we began our relationship with them 5+ years ago. The frame is a distant cousin to the original F1 aluminum bikes Jim developed with Easton in the '90s.
> 
> If you're looking to improve the bike "for a few $" I wouldn't look at the wheels. Unless you spend time riding 10% grades lighter wheels will only affect the scale, not the ride. Getting the perfect saddle to suit your posture (if the stock saddle isn't cutting it) and treating yourself to really nice tires is where I steer people. The cup/cone hubs, stainless spokes, aluminum spoke nipples and MAVIC rims are not the lightest wheelset on the market, but the box section rim and conventional lacing make for a good performing wheel well-suited to the overall cost of the bike.
> 
> After the initial first-timer road bike purchase, I'd advise the next buy to be:
> 
> Shorts
> Helmet
> Gloves
> fitting
> perfect saddle (not just a good enough one)
> premium 24-25mm tires and superlight tubes
> 
> -SD


Thanks SD, appreciate your advice mate!

ill look into all that you have touched on, as for raw weight of components, do you or anyone else here know if anyone has a breakdown on the F75 at all ? ...its more for my own understanding of where the weight falls in roadies - cheers again


----------



## toonarmy20

Just finished first ride on z85! 32miles of pure enjoyment and still fresh afterwards!!!! Loved it!<br />
Weather was poor and there was lots of rain. When cleaning and drying bike after I finished I noticed some water coming out of the tiny hole on the inside of the chain stay. I lifted the front wheel and LOADS more water came out!<br />
My question is where did that water get into the frame? I'm sure the tiny hole is for letting water out but how did it get in there!!!<br />
<br />
Thanks


----------



## westcoaster

Hey SuperDave, 

i'm about ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 F3, but i could wait a few months for the 2013. would you be able to divulge any info (ie: component and color scheme changes) to help me make my decision. and is there an eta on the 2013s? i do love the color scheme on the 2012, but......

thanks


----------



## westcoaster

delete


----------



## Superdave3T

westcoaster said:


> Hey SuperDave,
> 
> i'm about ready to pull the trigger on a 2012 F3, but i could wait a few months for the 2013. would you be able to divulge any info (ie: component and color scheme changes) to help me make my decision. and is there an eta on the 2013s? i do love the color scheme on the 2012, but......
> 
> thanks


With the new RED group debuted; the F3 really won't be the same in 2013. If you can still find a 2012, pick it up!

-SD


----------



## jmorgan

Dave,

Have any pictures of the Z1 you've been riding?


----------



## Superdave3T

jmorgan said:


> Dave,
> 
> Have any pictures of the Z1 you've been riding?


STRAlker?

Actually there are a few photos of the bike on various bike racing websites from a few events I've done. Probably tough to see anything new from race action shots though:
View attachment 258606


You'd have to know what to look for.


----------



## waford163

*F75 Love it!*

Got my first "proper" road bike a month ago, an F 75, know it's only a cheapie but lovin' it.

A few weeks agoI posted about the problem I have with seats - bought a Brooks B17 on ebay, maybe it is like putting a wooden steering wheel on a Ferrari, maybe it is a bit heavy, but I don't care, at least I can still feel my crown jewels after a couple of hours on board!

Interested in comment about leaving the wheels and upgrading the tyres, will do that once I've had some use out of the stock white ones.

Keep up the great work

Bill


----------



## T K

Dave, can you please help me?!
I want to buy a B-16 from my LBS but am having a hard time figuring out what size to get. They are a great shop but just not that knowlegable about TT fit.
I am 5'8" fairly evenly proportioned with maybe slightly shorter upper arms.
My road bikes have 54.5 and 55 cm virtual top tubes with 100mm stems. 
Felt site says 52 or 54. 
Can you give me any clues?
Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

T K said:


> Dave, can you please help me?!
> I want to buy a B-16 from my LBS but am having a hard time figuring out what size to get. They are a great shop but just not that knowlegable about TT fit.
> I am 5'8" fairly evenly proportioned with maybe slightly shorter upper arms.
> My road bikes have 54.5 and 55 cm virtual top tubes with 100mm stems.
> Felt site says 52 or 54.
> Can you give me any clues?
> Thanks.


at 5'8" you'd most likely be a 52cm but could also ride a 54cm if you prefer a steeper, more upright position.

I can't possibly narrow down the fit requirements to the centimeter based on the information you've provided. Your road fit and TT fit will be very different. Are you using the bike for TT, short course Tri, or long course tri? What crank length do you plan to use? what is the drop (saddle to armrest) you can tolerate? Do you like upturned extensions. "s" or straight?

I'd recommend finding a fitter you trust or learning more about the goals you have on this bike. In general, when fitting a triathlon bike, I recommend you buy the largest size you can make work. For pure TT riding, I recommend getting the lowest bike you can tolerate for the distance you'll be racing.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

clint_eastwood said:


> Regarding weights posted on the felt.com website ...


The bike weights are as pictured on the site; sans CPSC/EN/JIS reflectors, etc. Head tubes trimmed to spec w/ ~20mm of spacers between the head tube and stem. No pedals

56cm for AR, F, Z, Tk
54cm for TT/Tri
Small/47/48cm for ZW, DA4 W, B16 W

As for the frames, these are the RAW frame weights, w/o paint or decals. P&G is a somewhat large variable that affects the weight on a bike by bike case and year by year. A Gloss finish may add ~30g to the frame weight, Gloss White paint is "heavier" than Matte Black for example by as much as 100g. Some models like the F1 get "superlight" special finishes. We also use DuPont paint on some models that require additional layers. It is quite a complex variable to include on the published frame weight.

-SD


----------



## nesnah.truk

*f75 Question*

I am about to buy a used '11 F75 58cm. It is stock. Is $950 a good price? And, since it is stock, what are the first couple of things I would likely want/need to upgrade? Thanks for the help!


----------



## T K

SuperdaveFelt said:


> at 5'8" you'd most likely be a 52cm but could also ride a 54cm if you prefer a steeper, more upright position.
> 
> I can't possibly narrow down the fit requirements to the centimeter based on the information you've provided. Your road fit and TT fit will be very different. Are you using the bike for TT, short course Tri, or long course tri? What crank length do you plan to use? what is the drop (saddle to armrest) you can tolerate? Do you like upturned extensions. "s" or straight?
> 
> I'd recommend finding a fitter you trust or learning more about the goals you have on this bike. In general, when fitting a triathlon bike, I recommend you buy the largest size you can make work. For pure TT riding, I recommend getting the lowest bike you can tolerate for the distance you'll be racing.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave.
I will be doing TTs in the 10 to 20 mi. range mostly. I will be running the saddle in the steeper (more forward) posistion. Cranks will be 172.5, flatish bar ext. I can get low (flat back) but like I mentioned my shorter arms dont require a real short HT to get that low.
I'll take some measurements off of my current road bike set up as a TT bike with a forward seat post (front of saddle is in line with front of BB) and clip ons and then compare. 
I just read an article by Dan Empfield where he was saying that he may disagree with the go one size smaller than your road bike rule often used. He said someone fit to a larger bike would be better than a smaller bike with a bunch of spacers under the stem. The taller head tube with lower bars would be a more favorably areo front end.


----------



## Superdave3T

T K said:


> Thanks Dave.
> I will be doing TTs in the 10 to 20 mi. range mostly. I will be running the saddle in the steeper (more forward) posistion. Cranks will be 172.5, flatish bar ext. I can get low (flat back) but like I mentioned my shorter arms dont require a real short HT to get that low.
> I'll take some measurements off of my current road bike set up as a TT bike with a forward seat post (front of saddle is in line with front of BB) and clip ons and then compare.
> I just read an article by Dan Empfield where he was saying that he may disagree with the go one size smaller than your road bike rule often used. He said someone fit to a larger bike would be better than a smaller bike with a bunch of spacers under the stem. The taller head tube with lower bars would be a more favorably areo front end.


I've said the same thing, buy the biggest bike that fits you and suits your endeavours.

Sounds like you've got a good idea yourself; is there a 54cm you can test ride?

-SD


----------



## T K

There is a 54 at the shop. I'll have him set it up for me and give it a go. 
Thanks again Dave. 
Maybe next year a 2013 F series is in my future.


----------



## 2jags

Probably one for SD 

I live in the UK and have a Z4 which I am very happy with.

The bike came with a 110mm stem but I want to swap this for a shorter one. Can a 90mm stem be sourced in the UK and if not is the shim compatible with other standard 31.8mm stems? If it is, what angle is the stock stem without the shim as I would like the same range of angles I currently have?


----------



## Superdave3T

2jags said:


> Probably one for SD
> 
> I live in the UK and have a Z4 which I am very happy with.
> 
> The bike came with a 110mm stem but I want to swap this for a shorter one. Can a 90mm stem be sourced in the UK and if not is the shim compatible with other standard 31.8mm stems? If it is, what angle is the stock stem without the shim as I would like the same range of angles I currently have?


You'll need to get the same type of stem. Any standard 1.125" stem will not work.
FELT has sold this type of stem under the "2.1" and "VA" names.

We make them in 80-120mm sizes in 1cm increments.

This is something the UK importer/distributor of FELT should be able to order for you.


----------



## Imaking20

Now you've got me all hot and bothered with curiosity about the '13 F-series...


----------



## cgdrennan

So it was a sad day the other week. My 2011 f95 was stolen. The good news is that my wife's grandpa has an older F35 that he is just going to give me because he can't ride it anymore. Mine was a 58 cm and felt a tad big (I'm 6 feet tall BTW). 

The F35 is a 56 cm. are there any 6 foot riders out there riding a 56cm?


----------



## Superdave3T

cgdrennan said:


> So it was a sad day the other week. My 2011 f95 was stolen. The good news is that my wife's grandpa has an older F35 that he is just going to give me because he can't ride it anymore. Mine was a 58 cm and felt a tad big (I'm 6 feet tall BTW).
> 
> The F35 is a 56 cm. are there any 6 foot riders out there riding a 56cm?


Your posture and riding style have more to do with the size requirements.

I'm 6'2"and ride a 58cm but I could certainly recommend someone my size choose a 61cm if the rest of their fit coordinates suit that frame size.

The 56cm F35 is going to be a few cm lower in the head tube than your 58cm F95. If you can handle the added drop, perhaps just a new stem would be all that you need.

Plenty of 6' riders on 56cm frames FWIW.

-SD


----------



## jlfreemire

FA Frame for 2012 or 2013?


----------



## cyclevt

*Looking for info on FELT DEVOX Fork @ FELT.COM*

So, can anyone give me the low down on this? I happen to need a fork and I found this link:

Devox Road Fork - Felt Bicycles

I'm not having any luck finding reviews of this on the interwebs....

Can anyone shed light on how this thing performs? What Felt bikes was it used on, what year is it from, how does the stiffness stack up to something like the Easton EC90 SL, or Enve 2.0?

Thanks. 

PS - Have also emailed FELT CS and am hoping they can provide the info I'm looking for.


----------



## davegregoire

*New Bar Tape on the felt site*

The new GRIP GEL HANDLEBAR TAPE that is on the felt site sort of looks like the Lizard Skins tape. SD, is the new grip tape share a similar texture to the lizard skins and does it replace the more corky tape that came on my F5? Also, do you know how thick it is? 2.5 or more?


----------



## mac57

Best upgrade to a Felt Z4-Tires and wheels?


----------



## TDI Hoo

*Index numbers on seat clamp.*

Super Dave,

On my 2012 Z6 (which is just fantastic, by the way), what are these index numbers on the seat clamp for? They don't seem to be the angle at which the seat is set. Please enlighten us on how to use them. I don't see any index mark for noting how the seat is set. My seat is angled down at the front by just a degree or two. Can't figure out how that relates to the numbers on the blue clamp. Many thanks again for your expertise in this forum. 

Edit: I just looked at the clamp and it has a white index mark on the underside just like in the post below. Mine points to the rearmost 16 (the 16 to the right in the photo). What does this mean?


----------



## lesurfman

Take a look underneath for the arrow mark


----------



## Mr. Clean

I want to change out the fork on my Z6, any thoughts on what direction I should go or what to look out for?


----------



## T K

Mr. Clean said:


> I want to change out the fork on my Z6, any thoughts on what direction I should go or what to look out for?


Direction? Forward is best.
Why do you want to change your fork?
Your bike, I think, has a 50mm offset fork. Might be hard to find. But still. Why do you want to change your fork?


----------



## Mr. Clean

Forward!? INCONCEIVABLE!

The only reason for the change is an excuse to wrench on the bike a bit and perhaps add some stiffness. The offset was a concern from the onset though so who knows... During a morning run today my friend tried to convince me otherwise so - the jury is out I suppose. Perhaps a carbon bar instead??? I just have the urge to change stuff


----------



## T K

Mr. Clean said:


> Forward!? INCONCEIVABLE!
> 
> The only reason for the change is an excuse to wrench on the bike a bit and perhaps add some stiffness. The offset was a concern from the onset though so who knows... During a morning run today my friend tried to convince me otherwise so - the jury is out I suppose. Perhaps a carbon bar instead??? I just have the urge to change stuff


I saw a picture of your bike. I'd spend that time stretching or getting in better shape. Your bars look higher than your saddle. And also, looking at your bike setup, I don't know why you would want a "stiffer" fork.


----------



## Mr. Clean

T K said:


> I saw a picture of your bike. I'd spend that time stretching or getting in better shape. Your bars look higher than your saddle. And also, looking at your bike setup, I don't know why you would want a "stiffer" fork.


That's odd, because actually you have no idea what sort of shape I'm, nor my stretching ability. So, why assume such a thing? 

Also - what makes you determine I wouldn't want a stiffer fork based on the looks of my bike?


----------



## T K

First, I wasn't trying to be a jerk. 
Second. The reason I was assuming, is like I said. Your bars are as high as your saddle. Wich would lead one to think that maybe you were not very limber or maybe you are overweight. And, because your bars are as high as your saddle AND you have clip on aero bars higher than your saddle. That would make one think that you are not an aggressive rider so why would you need a stiffer fork?
Again, judging by your bikes set up, these were pretty standard conclusions.
I guess you could have super short legs for your height or have some neck or back issues. But if that were the case, I wouldn't want a stiffer fork.
You did in fact by a Z series "comfort" bike.


----------



## Mr. Clean

I post "fishing" (ironically enough) for fork ideas and this is what I get 

That is really a boatload of assumptions, you have no idea what I look like, how fit I am, how I ride, or really why I purchased a Z6. So even if you weren't trying to be a jerk, it is in fact how you came across.

If it helps, I'm 5'8", 172 at about 12% body fat last time I measured. My inseam is 30", maybe my legs are short. I typically run about 15 miles a week and cycle between 50 and 100. The bike was on closeout at my local LBS for $850 and it was what I could afford. Comfort or not, it is still quite a capable bike wouldn't you think? Is an F1 going to give me an extra 1 mph?

I appreciate the advice on lowering my bars further though, I flipped the stem after my fitting but perhaps I'll drop them a bit more before tomorrows ride.


----------



## z85guy

The fork rake for the Z forks are 50mm. Some manufacturers make 50mm forks but they cost a ton.


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> Super Dave,
> 
> On my 2012 Z6 (which is just fantastic, by the way), what are these index numbers on the seat clamp for? They don't seem to be the angle at which the seat is set. Please enlighten us on how to use them. I don't see any index mark for noting how the seat is set. My seat is angled down at the front by just a degree or two. Can't figure out how that relates to the numbers on the blue clamp. Many thanks again for your expertise in this forum.
> 
> Edit: I just looked at the clamp and it has a white index mark on the underside just like in the post below. Mine points to the rearmost 16 (the 16 to the right in the photo). What does this mean?


These are just relative numbers in the case where you might remove the saddle or want to adjust the position one direction, then decide to move it back. The same type of "unitless" guage is used for the saddle height and the numbers located on the back of the seatpost. Some lucky owners get a saddle height gauge without a "3".

-SD


----------



## 2jags

SuperdaveFelt said:


> You'll need to get the same type of stem. Any standard 1.125" stem will not work.
> FELT has sold this type of stem under the "2.1" and "VA" names.
> 
> We make them in 80-120mm sizes in 1cm increments.
> 
> This is something the UK importer/distributor of FELT should be able to order for you.


Thanks SD. The UK distributor does not sell these as an aftersales item and cannot help. I guess I will have to try an alternative solution.


----------



## milspecs

Hi, I have a 2012 F75, I was wondering what model number the 105 is? I'm trying to download the pdf's from the Shimano site, but there are a bunch of model numbers. Thanks!


----------



## dumalam

It'll be 105 5700.


----------



## milspecs

thank you for the quick response!


----------



## Imaking20

When can we start seeing details/hints about some 2013 road bikes?


----------



## bikerboyf3

I would like to know the same thing and if the new Di2 11 speed will be on either the AR1 or F1 bikes.


----------



## T K

Imaking20 said:


> When can we start seeing details/hints about some 2013 road bikes?


Yes, I too am very interested in a 2013 F series. 
And this is just my personal taste. But I was not a fan of the 2012 graphics. To busy with to many pin-stripie thingies. (Top tube, seat tube, seat stays) A bit jumbled. That new head tube badge was not my favorite either. Sorry.
I am eagerly awaiting the new lineup.
Thanks


----------



## JockeyWheel

T K said:


> Yes, I too am very interested in a 2013 F series.
> And this is just my personal taste. But I was not a fan of the 2012 graphics. To busy with to many pin-stripie thingies. (Top tube, seat tube, seat stays) A bit jumbled. That new head tube badge was not my favorite either. Sorry.
> I am eagerly awaiting the new lineup.
> Thanks


and just to tilt the scales back to center, I feel that the 2012 graphics are an improvement in every way over 2011. Nice wide swaths of color instead of the much busier, IMO, thin pinstripes. No striping around the bottom bracket imprinted with BB30. Fewer and more subtle Felt logos, and the new double-F headtube badge is about my favorite new element. I love the way it blends with the top tube striping. Much better than two more Felt logos. Again, in my opinion. Nice work.

2011


----------



## z85guy

Imaking20 said:


> When can we start seeing details/hints about some 2013 road bikes?


I think last year the leaks started in August and Official words in late September or November


----------



## Imaking20

I agree about the top tube graphics not being ideal to most onlookers... but the bike definitely looks better in person and I think the badge on the headtube is FAN-TASTIC!

I definitely wish my F3 hadn't had the large grey stripe on the top tube and could do without the white stripe down the fork (which is also a bit of a pain to keep OCD-clean). But I think the bike has come together nicely despite this... I'm even slowly updating to newer spec RED goodness :devil:


----------



## T K

I might actually like the head badge if not for the stripes comming off of it and going down the top tube. And for the record. I think the newest gen of Felts are for the most part some of the best looking bikes out there. I am a fan of the new tube shapes. Top tube especially.


----------



## Z6_esb

I have a 2012 Z6 and am thinking about upgrading the grouppo to either Shimano Ultegra or SRAM Force: FD, RD, Shifters, Crankset, BB, Brakes, cassette, and Chain.

Will there be any issues going from Shimano Tiagra to either of the aforementioned groups?


----------



## hoopingkld

Z6_esb said:


> I have a 2012 Z6 and am thinking about upgrading the grouppo to either Shimano Ultegra or SRAM Force: FD, RD, Shifters, Crankset, BB, Brakes, cassette, and Chain.
> 
> Will there be any issues going from Shimano Tiagra to either of the aforementioned groups?


Tiagra is 9speed so you need to change out cassette, chain, RD and shifters. FD & crankset can still be used after upgrading to 105 or Ultegra. Sram shifter only works with Shimano FD but not RD. Sram/Shimano brakes/cassette/chain are compatible if 10speed. i have Sram on all my bikes. The double tap is awesome IMHO...1 lever does all...and also allow you to pull the lever closer to the bar when you ride on the drop and shift. Shimano can't do that.


----------



## Z6_esb

hoopingkld said:


> Tiagra is 9speed so you need to change out cassette, chain, RD and shifters. FD & crankset can still be used after upgrading to 105 or Ultegra. Sram shifter only works with Shimano FD but not RD. Sram/Shimano brakes/cassette/chain are compatible if 10speed. i have Sram on all my bikes. The double tap is awesome IMHO...1 lever does all...and also allow you to pull the lever closer to the bar when you ride on the drop and shift. Shimano can't do that.


I have Tiagra 10 speed so given that do all of those things you mentioned become moot?


----------



## hoopingkld

Z6_esb said:


> I have Tiagra 10 speed so given that do all of those things you mentioned become moot?


sorry i didn't notice that Tiagra 4600 is now 10spd...Sweet..well then you don't need to change anything if you don't want to.....the purpose of upgrading is either weight shaving or better shifting feeling. Ultegra will give u precised shifting and durability...but most of commuter i know use 105 and didn't have problems either.

Either 105 5700 or Ultegra 6700 are awesome. Change RD and Shifters first then gradually upgrade the rest..i believe they are the same just different material for weight saving and ofcourse the LOOK.


----------



## Z6_esb

hoopingkld said:


> sorry i didn't notice that Tiagra 4600 is now 10spd...Sweet..well then you don't need to change anything if you don't want to.....the purpose of upgrading is either weight shaving or better shifting feeling. Ultegra will give u precised shifting and durability...but most of commuter i know use 105 and didn't have problems either.
> 
> Either 105 5700 or Ultegra 6700 are awesome. Change RD and Shifters first then gradually upgrade the rest..i believe they are the same just different material for weight saving and ofcourse the LOOK.


I feel that the Tiagra shifting is mushy and not precise. Also the shifter/brakes don't fit too well when compared to Ultegra or Force. Shifting FD is a chore:mad2:

I do love the LOOK though. hidden cables, not FSA crank and BB seem to be a good upgrade as well. jury is still out on the DoubleTap thing from SRAM. I have a buddy who has it so i will try it out.

I am going to buy around the holidays as a gift to myself.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## hoopingkld

Z6_esb said:


> I feel that the Tiagra shifting is mushy and not precise. Also the shifter/brakes don't fit too well when compared to Ultegra or Force. Shifting FD is a chore:mad2:
> 
> I do love the LOOK though. hidden cables, not FSA crank and BB seem to be a good upgrade as well. jury is still out on the DoubleTap thing from SRAM. I have a buddy who has it so i will try it out.
> 
> I am going to buy around the holidays as a gift to myself.
> 
> Thanks for your help!


No biggie...can talk bike all day.  i went with Sram Force and never look back. Rival is also superior compare to 105 and even lighter than Ultegra. Need to get used to it.


----------



## Z6_esb

hoopingkld said:


> No biggie...can talk bike all day.  i went with Sram Force and never look back. Rival is also superior compare to 105 and even lighter than Ultegra. Need to get used to it.


the 8 piece upgrade kit is a pretty good deal....it's like $1050 for the SRAM Force. That's pretty good. I am also looking at some nice clinchers; maybe Easton EA90 Aero or SLX...the Campy Zonda/Eurus look pretty sweet too. The Mavic CXP 22s are tanks. I lifted one and compared it to a EC90 Clincher (the carbon one i know) but the difference was astounding.


----------



## hoopingkld

Fleebay has bunch of 6pcs group for below $700. Sram Red crank is better choice... i can't justify to pay more than $800 for my group so i search a lot. Shimano chain/cassette will be quieter than Sram chain/cassette.. 

Save that for your wheels...under $400 for Ksyrium Elite or Sram S27...they are pretty much under 1750gr..or you can go with SLX/EA90...won't get u any faster though


----------



## Z6_esb

hoopingkld said:


> Fleebay has bunch of 6pcs group for below $700. Sram Red crank is better choice... i can't justify to pay more than $800 for my group so i search a lot. Shimano chain/cassette will be quieter than Sram chain/cassette..
> 
> Save that for your wheels...under $400 for Ksyrium Elite or Sram S27...they are pretty much under 1750gr..or you can go with SLX/EA90...won't get u any faster though


Can you have all SRAM stuff except for the cassette and chain? 

I think the look of the Eastons suit my eye...no other reason really. I like the way they look on my bike. I need to HTFU to get faster; wheels won't help much except maybe starting up a steep grade.

My LBS is really helpful and has good prices. When the time arrives, I'll see what they say and maybe a frankenGROUPPO is in my future.


----------



## hoopingkld

Z6_esb said:


> Can you have all SRAM stuff except for the cassette and chain?
> 
> I think the look of the Eastons suit my eye...no other reason really. I like the way they look on my bike. I need to HTFU to get faster; wheels won't help much except maybe starting up a steep grade.
> 
> My LBS is really helpful and has good prices. When the time arrives, I'll see what they say and maybe a frankenGROUPPO is in my future.


that's what i have on my bikes and even use my DA 7800 FD with Sram Force shifters. Sram 10 spd and Shimano are compatible..except RD/shifters...not recommending Campy but saw people run campy mix before... i do have Easton Circuit/EA70..they are pretty quiet and seal bearing so good all around..but Ksyrium SL is the bomb.


----------



## T K

Great discussion guys. But this is "ask Felt" not "components and wrenching".
Sorry but I'm afraid Dave may not be so eager to come here if he has to wade through posts that don't really pertain to Felt.


----------



## Superdave3T

T K said:


> Great discussion guys. But this is "ask Felt" not "components and wrenching".
> Sorry but I'm afraid Dave may not be so eager to come here if he has to wade through posts that don't really pertain to Felt.


It's ok, I try to check in when time allows. I don't mind the banter. If there is something critically urgent I've listed my contact information.

Carry on,

-SD


----------



## T K

Thanks Dave, I love my current bike but it is old. I am looking to get a new one and I don't see an "Ask Cannondale" thread here. So this thread means a lot to me in terms of, a company that cares.
Thanks again.


----------



## jerdawg

*F75 Color choices*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> If you are buying in the USA you'll get the F75 with the 2-tone paint job using Matte Black with Gloss White along the top tube. It is pictured here on our 2012 website.
> 
> F75 Road Bike - Felt Bicycles
> 
> There are 3 different color options offered globally with each Felt distributor selecting the colors that suit their country/markets best.
> 
> -SD


Can you only purchase the matte black/white in USA or can I purchase the other color selections instead if ordered through my local Felt Dealer?


----------



## Superdave3T

jerdawg said:


> Can you only purchase the matte black/white in USA or can I purchase the other color selections instead if ordered through my local Felt Dealer?


No, the all Matte Black colour scheme is only purchased by our distributors outside of North America, along with the paint, the specificaitons are a bit different and the bike is ~15% more expensive.

If you do not like the BLACK and WHITE paint job with the red accents, there will be a new model introduced in the next couple weeks for our 2013 product line.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## jerdawg

*F75 Color choices*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> No, the all Matte Black colour scheme is only purchased by our distributors outside of North America, along with the paint, the specificaitons are a bit different and the bike is ~15% more expensive.
> 
> If you do not like the BLACK and WHITE paint job with the red accents, there will be a new model introduced in the next couple weeks for our 2013 product line.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Thanks Dave.......I'll impatiently wait for two or three weeks :mad2:


----------



## JockeyWheel

*F1 front derailleur cable routing*

Hi, SD

I'm finishing up my F1 build and am down to cable routing and final adjustments. I noticed when I unpacked my frameset there was what I thought was monofilament line running through the frame near the front derailleur. It turns out that this is tubing much like that supplied with the new Gore Ride-On Professional system.

My question is whether the tubing shipped in the F1 frame is intended for routing only and should be pulled afterward or is it intended that the cable be run that way (through the tubing) during operation. I'm guessing the former but thought I'd ask.

Thanks again.


----------



## Superdave3T

JockeyWheel said:


> Hi, SD
> 
> I'm finishing up my F1 build and am down to cable routing and final adjustments. I noticed when I unpacked my frameset there was what I thought was monofilament line running through the frame near the front derailleur. It turns out that this is tubing much like that supplied with the new Gore Ride-On Professional system.
> 
> My question is whether the tubing shipped in the F1 frame is intended for routing only and should be pulled afterward or is it intended that the cable be run that way (through the tubing) during operation. I'm guessing the former but thought I'd ask.
> 
> Thanks again.


Those blue tubes are designed to aid cable routing, especially Di2 and EPS systems that are less rigid and more difficult to "push" through the frame. They must be removed before flight.

-SD


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Those blue tubes are designed to aid cable routing, especially Di2 and EPS systems that are less rigid and more difficult to "push" through the frame. They must be removed before flight.
> 
> -SD


Thanks SD, I figured any tubing was for routing purposes, but here's why I asked. Below is a pic of what I pulled from my frame next to the tubing supplied in recent Gore Ride-On Professional (dumb name) cable systems. There were no blue tubes in sight. My frame came sealed up with all manual cable guides in place. I hope there are no noodles in there that I need to remove. Are there?


----------



## Superdave3T

JockeyWheel said:


> Thanks SD, I figured any tubing was for routing purposes, but here's why I asked. Below is a pic of what I pulled from my frame next to the tubing supplied in recent Gore Ride-On Professional (dumb name) cable systems. There were no blue tubes in sight. My frame came sealed up with all manual cable guides in place. I hope there are no noodles in there that I need to remove. Are there?


You need to use a cable "straw" for the front derailleur inner wire. Trim the cable liner to extend from the downtube routing before it contacts the Bottom Bracket cable guide to after it exits the seat tube port.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> You need to use a cable "straw" for the front derailleur inner wire. Trim the cable liner to extend from the downtube routing before it contacts the Bottom Bracket cable guide to after it exits the seat tube port.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Thanks SD. Will do.

And the blue noodles? If I don't see 'em I don't have 'em, or are they routed in all F1 framesets and just sealed up inside?


----------



## Superdave3T

JockeyWheel said:


> Thanks SD. Will do.
> 
> And the blue noodles? If I don't see 'em I don't have 'em, or are they routed in all F1 framesets and just sealed up inside?


The blue cable guides are installed prior to the frame assembly, if they are not visible, they are not installed, it would be nearly impossible to tuck them all in the frame, they barely fit hanging out of the frame's holes for internal Di2/EPS routing...

-SD


----------



## JockeyWheel

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The blue cable guides are installed prior to the frame assembly, if they are not visible, they are not installed, it would be nearly impossible to tuck them all in the frame, they barely fit hanging out of the frame's holes for internal Di2/EPS routing...
> 
> -SD


Perfect. Thanks for all your help, SD. Looking forward to finishing this up. Hope to get out for a ride on it on the 4th. What better way to celebrate our nation's birthday. I'll post pics on the pic thread when I'm finished.


----------



## T K

Dave, been doing some poking around on the web and just came across a site called ripoff bikes. They have quite a few Felts and the prices seem unbelievably low. Do you know anything about them or are they ironically a rip off?Felt
A 2011 B-16 for $828? Click on Felt.


----------



## Nick09

*Di2 Internal Cable Routing on a Felt B14*

This is a big project for me. I just got Dura Ace Di2 for my B14, and the cables ARE going to be routed internally, it's just a matter of how I'm going to do it. I would rather not drill holes in my frame and bb shell, so I was planning on using the current cable routing that the B14 has. Unfortunately, Felt designed this bike way to well, and it has permanent internal cable guides. These guides however seem like the least invasive thing to remove to route internal Di2 wiring. It seems like I can get to them from the head to and cut them there, but I don't want to do that until i know how to get the other end out. My first thought was to just pull, but I don't know how strong that glue is. So, I was planning on drilling out what looks to be about the first inch that I imagine is glued into the "grommet", then pull them out from through the head tube. Anyone have any ideas about the best way to go about this? I also have to route the wire from the junction box to the battery back up through the head tube area and down the top tube in order to mount the battery under the seat. (The bb area is all closed off.) Would drilling a hole from the top tube to the down tube to connect the tube affect the frame's integrity?

Also, the internal guides look like they have a larger diameter than the hole in the cap behind the head tube. Can I drill these out so that I don't have to slice and solder the connectors? I don't mind splicing and soldering, it would just save time not doing it. 

I know this voids just about everything. I don't care. I've been told many times not to do this. It's going to happen, I just would like to know about any snags in my plan, like if those tubes are glued to the inside of the frame. So, can anyone help me through this?

EDIT: Also, how short can I cut the seat tube to route the battery wire? Or can I cut a slit in it, or any other clever way of making room for the wire?


----------



## Don4

Hey Superdave!

Is Felt going to be at RAGBRAI this year? I heard they were there in 2011, but understand that in 2010 they missed due to the 2011 product launch that occurred at the same time.

Thanks!

-- Don4


----------



## milspecs

Dave,

Is putting spacers (2-3) above the stem (2012 F75) bad?

Thank You!


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Thank you for your purchase, the Z6 has been a great seller for us. The ride quality of the Z bike is very difficult to quantify in a catalog or website description but a test ride speaks volumes and is the deciding factor for so many consumers.
> 
> Felt includes the adjuster on the frame's downtube. There is no need for a 2nd (or 3rd) adjuster at the shifter. Some models like our AR series or our F1 and F2 do not have adjusters at the downtube so I would have included them with the shifter if we made Tiagra versions of those bikes.
> 
> In any case, you've got "cockpit" adjusters on the bike so fine tuning on the fly is possible.
> 
> Enjoy the bike,
> 
> -SD


Had my 3 month of ownership "adjustment" this week. Bike is superb. Needed the seat raised just a bit. I told my fitter at the LBS that the downtube barrel adjuster for the rear derailleur is a little tough to turn while riding. He told me this tip: 
Push the downshift lever 2 times (move to a smaller rear cog) without pedaling. This will release the tension on the adjuster where the cable from the shifter attaches at the downtube. Then it is very easy to turn the barrel clockwise or counterclockwise. When adjusted, either resume pedaling or use the upshifter to put the derailleur where you want it.


----------



## Z6_esb

I have a 2012 Z6. I was looking through the specs on the Felt website. The Z6 is the only Z-Series model that has non-carbon steerer tube. Is cost the main reason on this? Will I notice any additional road complinace or weight savings to upgrade this component? I am going to upgrade to 105 or Ultegra shortly and will be getting new bars as well and was curious if I should change that out while I am having the other work done.

Also, I noticed the fork on the Z3 and Z2 is different than the other models. What is the reasoning and advantages to the different fork?

Love my Felt. Here's a pic. My dog is indifferent


----------



## Tallsedo

I am looking to get into road biking. I am 6'5 and 240...the Felt F75 is in my price range... will the 28 hole front rim be something I would have to look into replacing in the near future? Being my size I have read that strong rims are very important....


----------



## asindc

I just bought a new 2010 Z5 from an authorized dealer on closeout. The salesperson couldn't answer my question at the time of purchase, so I'm asking here: Does Felt make a longer seatpost for that model? My bike is a 58 with all stock (at the moment).


----------



## jackie

not sure if i should post this qns here.. i am looking for a road bike that will aid me in doing my tri.
visit a couple of LBS and the local store that carry felt bike show me a couple of bike that interest me
1) 2010 AR3 - abt 4.5k
2) 2011 F4 - abt 3.75k
3) 2012 F4 - abt 4k
all this bikes fall in within my budget but i am not sure if i should get the AR3 or the F4.
the AR3 is selling at a discounted rate as its a yesteryear model . but groupset wise. the AR3 come in Sram Red and the F4 come in ultegra.

any advise?


----------



## Imaking20

Well I prefer SRAM Red and if I weren't planning on lots of crits and climbing I'd be all over the AR anyway.... my vote is the AR3... for $3500-3900 or so. That price isn't very well discounted for a 2010 model, IMO




FYI, the 2012 Felt F3 (equipped with SRAM Red) retails at $4200... for comparison's sake.


----------



## jackie

Imaking20 said:


> Well I prefer SRAM Red and if I weren't planning on lots of crits and climbing I'd be all over the AR anyway.... my vote is the AR3... for $3500-3900 or so. That price isn't very well discounted for a 2010 model, IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, the 2012 Felt F3 (equipped with SRAM Red) retails at $4200... for comparison's sake.



diff country diff currency though. the new F3 cost about 6 grand here.


----------



## Imaking20

Aha! Well then...

My choice would be between the 2011 F4 and the 2010 AR3... obviously the latter being the most expensive of the bunch. It's a hard choice to make and really comes down to what fits you best, preference in group, and what appeals most to you. I think they're both very attractive bikes and I'd say the AR is probably a bit more versatile.


----------



## jackie

i see. the AR3 appeal to me more due to the shape and Sram red althought its a 2010 model.
but wondering. why not the 2012 Felt F4 model?>


----------



## ebitsocal

I have a 2009 Z25, i have just purchased a Devox Saddle, rails are 7MM X 9MM (i think), seems like I will not fit in the stock clamp that came on my seatpost. My question is...do I need to get a new seat post or can I use a 7MM X9.6MM Ritchey clamp for carbon saddles.


----------



## Superdave3T

ebitsocal said:


> I have a 2009 Z25, i have just purchased a Devox Saddle, rails are 7MM X 9MM (i think), seems like I will not fit in the stock clamp that came on my seatpost. My question is...do I need to get a new seat post or can I use a 7MM X9.6MM Ritchey clamp for carbon saddles.


The Ritchey clamp for carbon saddles only fits the Ritchey seatposts. You'll need to modify the clamps on your post or get a new seatpost that allows the taller rails to fit.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## ebitsocal

Thanks for the quick reply. Any recommendations for a seatpost that would accommodate the Devox rails or an example of how to modify the existing clamps.


----------



## Superdave3T

ebitsocal said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. Any recommendations for a seatpost that would accommodate the Devox rails or an example of how to modify the existing clamps.


Any seatpost with "top and bottom" style clamping will work.

3T Doric and Dorico are good examples.

-SD


----------



## FeltF75rider

Is there any way to get the Felt branded crimpless cable ends. I lost one and do not want to start using the crimp on style.


----------



## *bigG*

*Fray dunaways*



FeltF75rider said:


> Is there any way to get the Felt branded crimpless cable ends. I lost one and do not want to start using the crimp on style.


Here you go!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobones 
How can I get hold of spare felt cable ends (frey done away)? I'm looking for black ones for my 2011 F85, but both the Felt shops in my area (Scotland) didn't carry any spares. TIA.
The fray dunaways should be available this spring through our distributors. It is possible that not every Felt Global distributor will carry them however.
-SD


----------



## jerdawg

Any idea when the Felt website is going to be updated with the 2013 models?


----------



## bornonthefourth

Hello Superdave, my first post here...

My husband and I rode a Felt Z3 at our LBS and really liked the bike, but are thinking about the Z4 for the Ultegra gruppo. I recently read that the '13 Z4 will have 105. Is this true? 

Thank you!


----------



## Superdave3T

bornonthefourth said:


> Hello Superdave, my first post here...
> 
> My husband and I rode a Felt Z3 at our LBS and really liked the bike, but are thinking about the Z4 for the Ultegra gruppo. I recently read that the '13 Z4 will have 105. Is this true?
> 
> Thank you!


Yes, in 2013 the Z series road line will begin with a complete bike with Dura Ace using our Z1 frame. Z2 is Ultegra Di2, Z3 is Ultegra mechanical, Z4 is 105...

The 1,2,3,4 and 5 number designations are just to differentiate the models, the Z3 and the Z4 for 2013 use the same frame.

If you are after the Ultegra mechanical group, take a look at the 2013 Z3 (or ZW3)

Best,
-SD


----------



## bornonthefourth

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, in 2013 the Z series road line will begin with a complete bike with Dura Ace using our Z1 frame. Z2 is Ultegra Di2, Z3 is Ultegra mechanical, Z4 is 105...
> 
> The 1,2,3,4 and 5 number designations are just to differentiate the models, the Z3 and the Z4 for 2013 use the same frame.
> 
> If you are after the Ultegra mechanical group, take a look at the 2013 Z3 (or ZW3)
> 
> Best,
> -SD


Thank you for your reply. 

Do you think the price will be comparable to the '12 Ultegra-equiped bike (currently Z4)? Our LBS doesn't have the '13 models in yet. 

Thanks again.


----------



## Superdave3T

bornonthefourth said:


> Thank you for your reply.
> 
> Do you think the price will be comparable to the '12 Ultegra-equiped bike (currently Z4)? Our LBS doesn't have the '13 models in yet.
> 
> Thanks again.


Yes, the price should be similar to 2012; perhaps a bit higher because of the all new frame design and BB30 crankset. Every country is a bit different and I don't have the prices memorized; your local shop should be able to quote you a price. The bike went on a bit of a diet along with a big boost in torsional stiffness while retaining a compliant ride.

-SD


----------



## bornonthefourth

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, the price should be similar to 2012; perhaps a bit higher because of the all new frame design and BB30 crankset. Every country is a bit different and I don't have the prices memorized; your local shop should be able to quote you a price. The bike went on a bit of a diet along with a big boost in torsional stiffness while retaining a compliant ride.
> 
> -SD


Thank you again. We'll follow-up with our LBS (in CA).


----------



## Superdave3T

bornonthefourth said:


> Thank you again. We'll follow-up with our LBS (in CA).


Oh? Where in CA is your shop? I work in the Felt office in Irvine, CA.

-SD


----------



## bornonthefourth

We're in the Sacramento area.


----------



## gocard

SuperDave, I am considering a 2012 Z85 and read in this forum that the 2013 version has several changes. Is the price on the same level as the 2012s or will it be a bit higher? Thanks! 

edit** you answered part of the question in another thread but I can't delete this post


----------



## Superdave3T

gocard said:


> SuperDave, I am considering a 2012 Z85 and read in this forum that the 2013 version has several changes. Is the price on the same level as the 2012s or will it be a bit higher? Thanks!
> 
> edit** you answered part of the question in another thread but I can't delete this post


The changes we've made have certainly increased the cost of making the product. The price of the product will depend on where (which country) you are buying it from. There isn't a big swing in the price point and you should be able to find a 2013 Z85 within +0-7% of the cost of a 2012.

-SD


----------



## Big Lebowski

*and the 2013 Z5?*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, in 2013 the Z series road line will begin with a complete bike with Dura Ace using our Z1 frame. Z2 is Ultegra Di2, Z3 is Ultegra mechanical, Z4 is 105...
> 
> The 1,2,3,4 and 5 number designations are just to differentiate the models, the Z3 and the Z4 for 2013 use the same frame.
> 
> If you are after the Ultegra mechanical group, take a look at the 2013 Z3 (or ZW3)
> 
> Best,
> -SD


...the 2013 Z5 is Tiagra? It is my understanding that the Z6 model has been dropped for 2013.

Thanks!


----------



## quanster42

any idea when the 2013 DAs will be available? i would also like the specs on the DA3 if possible


----------



## Mnkykng77

SD: I have a 2011 Z85 and just got a Devox saddle. I have to get a new seatpost and was wondering what the offset was on the stock seatpost. Thanks.


----------



## slowdave

To the guys who know
i have a new b2pro that i purchased as a frameset. The rear brake is not really working with the calipers that i currently have. Im running a borrowed duraace bake at the moment, and looking for the best option for a new one. I can get a 7900 rear but that goes against the grain, and has very limited crank clearence. Will a campagnolo lateral pull rear work?


----------



## seanjhb

*F3 2012*

Ive been offered a 2012 F3 for $3250 ?
Any thoughts on the deal would be very welcome
Thanks


----------



## Don4

seanjhb said:


> Ive been offered a 2012 F3 for $3250 ?
> Any thoughts on the deal would be very welcome
> Thanks


New, used? Most importantly, is it the right size for you?

If new, I can see that kind of discount being possible at the end of the model year. My wife got a similarly screaming deal on a 2010 Z2 (with Di2) that was in the window part of the year when I picked up my 2011 F3 in Sept of 2011.

If used, make sure everything is in good working order, and have your LBS, preferably your local Felt dealer, inspect it before buying to make sure the frame isn't damaged.

Either way, could be a good buy. Just make sure it fits!

-- Don4


----------



## Superdave3T

jerdawg said:


> Any idea when the Felt website is going to be updated with the 2013 models?


Sept. 1st, 2012.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Mnkykng77 said:


> SD: I have a 2011 Z85 and just got a Devox saddle. I have to get a new seatpost and was wondering what the offset was on the stock seatpost. Thanks.


20mm.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

quanster42 said:


> any idea when the 2013 DAs will be available? i would also like the specs on the DA3 if possible


2013 DAs will begin shipping this month, some models like the all-new DA1 with Dura-Ace will not be available until October because of the late delivery of Shimano components.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

slowdave said:


> To the guys who know
> i have a new b2pro that i purchased as a frameset. The rear brake is not really working with the calipers that i currently have. Im running a borrowed duraace bake at the moment, and looking for the best option for a new one. I can get a 7900 rear but that goes against the grain, and has very limited crank clearence. Will a campagnolo lateral pull rear work?


Dura-Ace 7*8*00 will work, Dura-Ace 7900 does not fit.

TRP also makes calipers that work well:
TRP R950 and T925-1B are excellent options.

Campagnolo's lateral pull will fit but the housing will need to be anchored out of the way with a zip tie or suitable retainer. The link on the -1B TRP caliper is a better option.

-SD


----------



## difficult

Hi Dave,

I have a 2009 F95 Team Edition. I recently noticed what looks like a nick in the paint. It's not showing the aluminum though, but I want to treat this before any chance of rust. Is there a way I could buy the paint used for this? Or are there any other recommendations? The paint on the section is matte black.

thanks,
thomas.


----------



## Mnkykng77

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 20mm.
> 
> -SD


Thanks


----------



## slowdave

Thanks superdave you have been busy today


----------



## jmorgan

difficult said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have a 2009 F95 Team Edition. I recently noticed what looks like a nick in the paint. It's not showing the aluminum though, but I want to treat this before any chance of rust. Is there a way I could buy the paint used for this? Or are there any other recommendations? The paint on the section is matte black.
> 
> thanks,
> thomas.


Car touch-up paint.


----------



## The_Iain

*2007 f85...*

Oooh, this thread is a great find!

What kind of headset do I have in my 2007 F85? It's not been used in a while and the last ride the weather was shocking (25 hours in the rain!) so one of the sets of bearings has completely seized.

Thanks.

Iain


----------



## Superdave3T

The_Iain said:


> Oooh, this thread is a great find!
> 
> What kind of headset do I have in my 2007 F85? It's not been used in a while and the last ride the weather was shocking (25 hours in the rain!) so one of the sets of bearings has completely seized.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Iain


You'll need an integrated headset using the Cane Creek 1.125" dimensions. There are many options from Cane Creek, FSA, and others. The Campagnolo standard will not fit in your frame as the bearing diameter is too large.

These headsets are available on the Felt Bicycles website or any Felt Dealer can assist in sourcing one.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## adams90210

Hi SuperDave,

What will the MSRP be on the 2013 Felt F5 model? I'm in Oklahoma if that helps. 

Also, are there any big changes b/w the 2012 and 2013 F5 models? Thanks for your help!


----------



## jmorgan

Dave, 

Do you have any pictures of the new AR5 for the US?

Thanks


----------



## The_Iain

Winner - thanks very much!


----------



## Superdave3T

jmorgan said:


> Dave,
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the new AR5 for the US?
> 
> Thanks


jmorgan,

The AR5 is not going to be offered for the USA market in 2013. The AR4 in the USA will be updated with SRAM using a Rival/Apex mix, SRAM Red 52/36t chainrings, custom 1700g wheels, and drop considerably in price from the 2012 AR4 price.

Website goes live September 1st, I only have grainy low-res images not suitable for publication on my laptop. I hope you can wait a couple weeks to see the high res file at Felt Bicycles.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

adams90210 said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> What will the MSRP be on the 2013 Felt F5 model? I'm in Oklahoma if that helps.
> Also, are there any big changes b/w the 2012 and 2013 F5 models? Thanks for your help!


2013 MSRP will be $2069. The F5 frame and fork remain the same for 2013 other than a cosmetic redo with a subtle "silver shadow" graphic treatment over the 3kp carbon fiber weave. 

The big change is in the component selection. The Shimano drivetrain is updated with a SRAM Rival/Apex mix. The FSA BB30 crankset remains as do the Felt hubs & Mavic rims. We basically took the best parts of the F5 and F6 and merged them into one high performance ~$2000 package. Weight dropped 230 grams along with the price reduction from 2012.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Kestreljr

Are there any real life photos of your felt jersey's you sell online? 

I like the look of the factory jersey more than the race, but would like to see high res photos of both so you can tell fabric choice, zipper, etc... Many thanks! 

Felt F2C Owner


----------



## Superdave3T

Kestreljr said:


> Are there any real life photos of your felt jersey's you sell online?
> 
> I like the look of the factory jersey more than the race, but would like to see high res photos of both so you can tell fabric choice, zipper, etc... Many thanks!
> 
> Felt F2C Owner


I'm afriad I don't have any photos of the jersey's uup close. Perhaps you could check with your local Felt Dealer? We also sell the clothing on our website and have a generous return/exchange policy.

Good luck,
-SD


----------



## olde5123

Dave, 
First off, Im new to this forum and would like to thank you for your time and support. You mentioned eariler that the new F5 will have a silver shadow over the carbon....is that instead of the lime green on the 2012? Im ordering a 2013 in two weeks or so and would love to know. Also, Im having some issues finding any F series in stock near me to find a proper size. I think Im between a 51 and 54. 
5' 9" but 29" inseam. I used to have a 09" f75 at 52 and it was perfect....any recommedations?


----------



## jmorgan

SuperdaveFelt said:


> jmorgan,
> 
> The AR5 is not going to be offered for the USA market in 2013. The AR4 in the USA will be updated with SRAM using a Rival/Apex mix, SRAM Red 52/36t chainrings, custom 1700g wheels, and drop considerably in price from the 2012 AR4 price.
> 
> Website goes live September 1st, I only have grainy low-res images not suitable for publication on my laptop. I hope you can wait a couple weeks to see the high res file at Felt Bicycles.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Dave, do you know what the MSRP with be on the new AR4 and the total weight of the new bike. Wondering if I should try to get an '12 AR5 on sale maybe or wait for the new AR4. Also whats the color scheme?

Thanks


----------



## JoeFeltF5

Quick question about tire damage from a trainer.
My F5 had its out the box tires on (Vitoria I think ) and seems that just one ride on a stationary trainer has done significant damage- enough to make me think about replacing the back tire?

Any guidelines on this issue ?


----------



## Superdave3T

JoeFeltF5 said:


> Quick question about tire damage from a trainer.
> My F5 had its out the box tires on (Vitoria I think ) and seems that just one ride on a stationary trainer has done significant damage- enough to make me think about replacing the back tire?
> 
> Any guidelines on this issue ?


Trainer tire wear will depend largely on the compound of the tire, the texture of the roller and the amount of tension you put agaist the contact patch. There are "trainer speciifc" tires but I've always used an old worn tire not suitable for on-road use and rode it through the casing in the winter/wet months (before I moved to SoCal!).

I'd suggest backing off the tension/contact with the tire until it just starts to slip under your hardest efforts.

Good luck,
-SD


----------



## chudak

Hi,

I'm looking to buy a new road bike and have been looking at the F75, F6 and F5. I'm a big guy (~250lbs). Is there a rider weight limit on the Felt carbon frames? Would I be better off sticking to the F75?

Thanks!


----------



## nickpoz

Can anyone point me in the direction of info for the 2013 Felt 960 which is replacing the Nine Sport? I know the frame is totally redesigned. What else is different? How would it compare to a Trek Mamba?


----------



## jerdawg

I'm interested in maybe getting a Z5 but I am curious about my weight and the frame holding up.
I weigh 270 lbs.
A dealer mentioned to me that Felt doesn't have a weight limit...is this true?


----------



## Superdave3T

jerdawg said:


> I'm interested in maybe getting a Z5 but I am curious about my weight and the frame holding up.
> I weigh 270 lbs.
> A dealer mentioned to me that Felt doesn't have a weight limit...is this true?


That is true, we do not publish a weight limit on our bicycles. I've ridden quite a bit at 200#+ and discovered that while there are products without weight limits, there are also limitations to the performance of some items designed for 135 climbers. I've had experience with wheels that are well-loved among most consumers that I considered soft. I've used seatposts and forks that could be more robust for what I prefer in handling and rigidity.

The Z5 isn't going to break under your weight, but you might find that components from FSA or Shimano or your shoe/pedal vendor, or the saddle to be better suited for someone in the middle of the "bell curve" on size.

At nearly 6'3" I'm accustomed to having to "make do" with products designed for medium sized people. At 270 pounds, I'm sure you've found the same thing to be true. If you are new to cycling, ask other forum members here; perhaps in different threads what their recommendations are for wheels, tires, bars, saddles, etc. These "interface" items are where you'll likely find shortcomings in performance for someone your size.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## jerdawg

SuperdaveFelt said:


> That is true, we do not publish a weight limit on our bicycles. I've ridden quite a bit at 200#+ and discovered that while there are products without weight limits, there are also limitations to the performance of some items designed for 135 climbers. I've had experience with wheels that are well-loved among most consumers that I considered soft. I've used seatposts and forks that could be more robust for what I prefer in handling and rigidity.
> 
> The Z5 isn't going to break under your weight, but you might find that components from FSA or Shimano or your shoe/pedal vendor, or the saddle to be better suited for someone in the middle of the "bell curve" on size.
> 
> At nearly 6'3" I'm accustomed to having to "make do" with products designed for medium sized people. At 270 pounds, I'm sure you've found the same thing to be true. If you are new to cycling, ask other forum members here; perhaps in different threads what their recommendations are for wheels, tires, bars, saddles, etc. These "interface" items are where you'll likely find shortcomings in performance for someone your size.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Thanks Dave,
so if the frame gets a crack or something....it will be covered...no questions asked?
also....what color is the new Z5 come in?


----------



## Superdave3T

jerdawg said:


> Thanks Dave,
> so if the frame gets a crack or something....it will be covered...no questions asked?
> also....what color is the new Z5 come in?


If the frame were to crack it would be evaluated regardless of your weight. Cracks in carbon frames are exceptionally uncommon from fatigue or static loading. In the rare instance when cracks do occur it is nearly always from point loads or impacts. Dropped chains, handlebar contacting the top tube in a crash or fall, or even careless clamping of the frame in a repair stand.

-SD


----------



## consecrow

I bought a Felt f85 and the bike creaks ??? any idea ive rode it around 60 miles so far ???


----------



## consecrow

*tire size*

on my f85 will it hold 28 tires ???


----------



## robgazoo

Quick question...The Felt I have came with Shimano 105 brake system. On the rear systems it looks as if the arm are not long enough..or wait barely long enough.. millimetres..to brake with the rimset I have..which is Zipp 404..due to the width of the wheelset...the brake system has to be exact..is there another brake system that would have longer arms..does Shimano make them?...is this question clear enough..I have gone through alot of rear tires before figuring out that its the rear brake system..or actually the placement of it..that is the problem


----------



## consecrow

helloo from texas


----------



## consecrow

hello from texas


----------



## ecub

Hi. I'm considering of getting the F65X, but have a few concerns...

- I'm concerned about the external cabling. Is it possible drill the frame and have the cable routed internally? Will doing this void the warranty?

- Is the bike fender capable, both front and back? If so, any photos?

- Is it rack capable? Someone stated from looking at the bike, that the rear brakes may be in the way of a rack. Any photos? I have several Bontrager rear rack bags and would prefer using Bontrager racks, since I can attack the bag to them.


----------



## jmorgan

2013 F65X


----------



## dumalam

*F65x*

Are there any differences between the 2013 and 2012 F65X complete bike (frame-set, wheels and components)? Is the paint scheme exactly the same as it seems?


----------



## Superdave3T

dumalam said:


> Are there any differences between the 2013 and 2012 F65X complete bike (frame-set, wheels and components)? Is the paint scheme exactly the same as it seems?


Yes, but the changes are small. The crankset is now a compact BCD with 46/36t chainrings (2012 had 130mm BCD 46/38t rings)

The fork now uses a tapered 1.125" --> 1.5" 7075 aluminum steerer tube

The rear triangle has fender/rack eyelets.

The handlebar drop is ~8mm shallower and reach ~4mm shorter

There is no change to the paint or decals. The bike was an overwhelming success and we wanted to keep the changes to a minimum to maintain the same market reaction the 2012 bike earned.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

robgazoo said:


> Quick question...The Felt I have came with Shimano 105 brake system. On the rear systems it looks as if the arm are not long enough..or wait barely long enough.. millimetres..to brake with the rimset I have..which is Zipp 404..due to the width of the wheelset...the brake system has to be exact..is there another brake system that would have longer arms..does Shimano make them?...is this question clear enough..I have gone through alot of rear tires before figuring out that its the rear brake system..or actually the placement of it..that is the problem


The caliper is positioned high on the frame to maximize tire clearance so 25mm tires fit without any issues.

There are calipers with 50mm of reach from TRP and SRAM that may give you an additional 1mm of reach. The 105 Shimano calipers have a 39mm-49mm range of adjustment.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

consecrow said:


> on my f85 will it hold 28 tires ???


It is likely a 28mm tire will rub the brake caliper on the front fork.

Some 28mm tires are smaller than others and some companies make unusual sizes in an effort to fit the most amount of frames availalbe.

Tioga = 26mm
Spec = 26mm
Panaracer = 27mm

Have a shop try a few options for you.

-SD


----------



## ecub

Can the F65X use 29er wheels?


----------



## dumalam

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, but the changes are small. The crankset is now a compact BCD with 46/36t chainrings (2012 had 130mm BCD 46/38t rings)
> 
> The fork now uses a tapered 1.125" --> 1.5" 7075 aluminum steerer tube
> 
> The rear triangle has fender/rack eyelets.
> 
> The handlebar drop is ~8mm shallower and reach ~4mm shorter
> 
> There is no change to the paint or decals. The bike was an overwhelming success and we wanted to keep the changes to a minimum to maintain the same market reaction the 2012 bike earned.
> 
> -SD


Thanks for the info. If I could just follow up on those answers:

So if I'm looking at the 2012 geometry chart, the stack height of the 2013 bikes will be about 8mm _bigger_ for each size?

If I was to buy a 2012 F65X, would it not have any eyelets/mounts at all? I though it had some.

What is the significance of an alumunium steerer tube as opposed to a carbon one? Is one stronger or more durable, stiffer, or more comfortable/less harsh? Does the tapering change something as well?

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

dumalam said:


> Thanks for the info. If I could just follow up on those answers:
> 
> So if I'm looking at the 2012 geometry chart, the stack height of the 2013 bikes will be about 8mm _bigger_ for each size? The drop and reach only refers to the HANDLEBAR, so the only difference would be the relative position of your hands on the brake hoods or in the drops. The frame stack and reach are identical to 2012 for 2013.
> 
> If I was to buy a 2012 F65X, would it not have any eyelets/mounts at all? I though it had some.
> 
> Yes, you would have a mount on the seat stay bridge and two on the dropouts.
> 
> What is the significance of an alumunium steerer tube as opposed to a carbon one? Is one stronger or more durable, stiffer, or more comfortable/less harsh? Does the tapering change something as well?
> 
> In general, a monocoque carbon fiber fork (1piece including steerer) is lighter and in many cases can produce a stronger fork in terms of ultimate strength The 1 piece construciton method of a full carbon fiber fork has a higher strength to weight vs.a fork that uses an aluminum/carbon fiber composite and a "cold" bonding construction method.
> 
> In practice an aluminum steerer tube is safer for ham-fisted mechanics/owners/consumers that use incorrect cutting techniques, improper stem prep or torque and possible run too-high stem positions leaving excessive exposed steerer tube above the headset. We also overbuild the bonding interfaces to enhance the strength here. What you end up with is a strong fork that is a bit heavier but carries less risk for carelessness to result in failure.
> 
> Felt is hyper-conservative with the forks on our bicycles. Felt has conducted an extensive fork recall in the past without experiencing one failure in the market because of possible raw material issues. This was a voluntary and exceedingly expensive step taken to protect our customers. A 0.01% failure rate is unacceptable on any fork Using an aluminum steerer tube on a bike in this price range is probably the best choice given the widespread potential use of a cyclo-cross bike by consumers.
> 
> Thanks


Thank you for your consideration,
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

ecub said:


> Can the F65X use 29er wheels?


Yes,the F65x is designed around 100mm x 9mm front axle and 135mm x 10mm rear axle like many 29" wheel MTB.

I'm using some Sun Ringle BlackFlag 29" wheels on my Felt CX bike.

-SD


----------



## mindbreeze

*Sizing Question*

Hi Dave,

I'm in the market for my first road bike in some 20 years. I most recently road a gary fischer mtb which seemed fine. I have been doing some research online, and have narrowed my selection down to the z85 or giant defy. I should point out that I am a 6' 245lbs, I have been trying to get in shape and have lost about half the weight I want to get off. I would still like to lose another 50 lbs. Having said that, I went to my LBS to get fitted. This was a giant/specialized dealer. They seemed like they were very knowledgeable and detailed when it came to the fitting. They said that my Torso was a little larger than average for my body type, and that the Defy might not be the best fit. We wanted to leave some room to "grow" when I lost some of my gut. They said that the 58" Specialized Allez would be a much better fit. The looks of the Allez really do not appeal to me, and I really like the looks of the new Felt Z85 and from the sounds of it, would fit my intents perfectly. Comfort, with room to grow as I lose some more weight and can get a little more aggressive with my style. Unfortunately I went to the closest Felt dealership, and while the gentleman was very nice and helpful, I didn't quite get that same level of confidence in his assessment of my fit. Which he really didn't do (I didn't want to just go in and ask what size bike I would fit on without buying anything). He basically just said looking at you standing over the Z85 you would probably be a 58. So finally, my question to you is, would that be an accurate assessment? As I mention I'm around 6'-6'1" and 245, with the hopes of getting down to around 200 or less. My torso longer than normal. Does the Z85 relate or have the adjust-ability to be fit to my body type? There is not another Felt dealership close enough that I can visit unfortunately.

Thanks so much for your consideration!


----------



## ecub

The F65X uses 160mm/140mm rotors, front/rear. Is it possible to use 160mm in the rear as well?


----------



## jmorgan

mindbreeze said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I'm in the market for my first road bike in some 20 years. I most recently road a gary fischer mtb which seemed fine. I have been doing some research online, and have narrowed my selection down to the z85 or giant defy. I should point out that I am a 6' 245lbs, I have been trying to get in shape and have lost about half the weight I want to get off. I would still like to lose another 50 lbs. Having said that, I went to my LBS to get fitted. This was a giant/specialized dealer. They seemed like they were very knowledgeable and detailed when it came to the fitting. They said that my Torso was a little larger than average for my body type, and that the Defy might not be the best fit. We wanted to leave some room to "grow" when I lost some of my gut. They said that the 58" Specialized Allez would be a much better fit. The looks of the Allez really do not appeal to me, and I really like the looks of the new Felt Z85 and from the sounds of it, would fit my intents perfectly. Comfort, with room to grow as I lose some more weight and can get a little more aggressive with my style. Unfortunately I went to the closest Felt dealership, and while the gentleman was very nice and helpful, I didn't quite get that same level of confidence in his assessment of my fit. Which he really didn't do (I didn't want to just go in and ask what size bike I would fit on without buying anything). He basically just said looking at you standing over the Z85 you would probably be a 58. So finally, my question to you is, would that be an accurate assessment? As I mention I'm around 6'-6'1" and 245, with the hopes of getting down to around 200 or less. My torso longer than normal. Does the Z85 relate or have the adjust-ability to be fit to my body type? There is not another Felt dealership close enough that I can visit unfortunately.
> 
> Thanks so much for your consideration!


Felts sizing online would put you in a 56-58. 

Why not just test ride a 58 and a 56, you will be one or the other, get the one that feels better. I have a 58 and am right at 6ft (longer legs) and I think its big for me, but it might be the size you need. Ride them back to back and go with what feels best. The LBS will have a better idea of what will fit you then anyone guessing on the internet. Their 58 recommendation seems reasonable and a good starting point.


----------



## JoeFeltF5

Hi there
Thanks for the reply, sorry I took awhile to read it
Safe Cycling everyone
Joe


----------



## wetsum3

*Felt 2013 zw*

My wife is looking at a felt and a trek right now. I encouraged her to wait for the 2013 felt so she could compare it against the 2013 trek domane. She is specifically looking at the felt zw5 or zw4. Can you tell me the msrp of a felt 2013 zw4? That would be a HUGE help. Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

wetsum3 said:


> My wife is looking at a felt and a trek right now. I encouraged her to wait for the 2013 felt so she could compare it against the 2013 trek domane. She is specifically looking at the felt zw5 or zw4. Can you tell me the msrp of a felt 2013 zw4? That would be a HUGE help. Thanks


The ZW4 MSRP is $2069 for 2013.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

ecub said:


> The F65X uses 160mm/140mm rotors, front/rear. Is it possible to use 160mm in the rear as well?


Yes, the rear dropout uses the standard IS mount. 160mm adaptors for the post mount rear caliper are available.

-SD


----------



## wetsum3

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The ZW4 MSRP is $2069 for 2013.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Are the 2012 zw5 and the 2013 zw4 analogous bikes from a component standpoint? I see the msrp is a little lower on the 2013. Just wondering where the price difference comes from if the 2013 frame is an improvement.

Thanks,
Doug


----------



## Superdave3T

wetsum3 said:


> Are the 2012 zw5 and the 2013 zw4 analogous bikes from a component standpoint? I see the msrp is a little lower on the 2013. Just wondering where the price difference comes from if the 2013 frame is an improvement.
> 
> Thanks,
> Doug


Doug, the shifter/derailleur specification is the same but that's really the extent of the similarities. The all new ZW frame is a whole new category. The new chassis also gets a big upgrade with the BB30 crankset, monocoque fork, premium headset and handlebar revision.

The 2013 ZW4 is a far better bicycle than the 2012 ZW5. The 2013 ZW5 would be a closer comparison from a performance standpoint.

-SD


----------



## lesurfman

SuperDave, can you compare the sizing between FACTORY bib & jersey VS the RACE bib and jersey.

I needed large FACTORY but normally wear med/32

Thx


----------



## TDI Hoo

*New Tires for 2012 Z6*

Super Dave,

I am asking for your opinion, given your expertise in product planning, development, and racing. I bought my Z6 in April, and I have ridden over 1500 miles thus far. Just the most comfortable bike for me ever. I had a great time with it at Wrightsville Beach, NC, where I rode over 200 miles on my week's vacation. 

The original Zaffiro Slick tire in the rear is now looking square. Advice from the local bike shop is to replace just the rear, and then when that second tire is worn, replace both, sort of the 1--2 replacement pattern, or something like that. They don't recommend rotating tires.

But I also would like to know if it is worth putting Rubino Pro or Rubino Pro Slicks in back (or replacing both.) My average speed is now 16.5-17.5 mph over 90 to 120 minutes with elevation gains of 400-500 feet, so relatively flat, rolling farm roads in Virginia. I have enjoyed the Zaffiro Slicks during training. 

1. Is it OK to replace rear tire only with the same (Zaffiro) or different (Rubino) tire?
2. Will an upgrade to Rubinos be noticeable in terms of ride quality/speed?
3. Slick or non slick? I do plan to ride a bit more in the rain. My experience is that the Zaffiro Slicks are reasonable in light rain, but I have been slowing down and being careful with them.

Thanks! Still trying to convince my wife to get a ZW. She's only 5'0" and 92 lbs.


----------



## bwbishop

I think you'll find that a lot of folks rotate from front to back and put the new tire on the front and rotate the old tire to the back. If you flat in the back, it's usually no biggie, but flat in the front when turning fast. Ouch! Just my 2 cents.


----------



## Superdave3T

milspecs said:


> Dave,
> 
> Is putting spacers (2-3) above the stem (2012 F75) bad?
> 
> Thank You!


I'd keep it to <5mm with a carbon steerer tube. Keep the total exposed steerer tube under 2.5 times the steerer diameter.

Best,
-SD


----------



## olde5123

Well.... I just saw the specs on the 2013 F5. Im pretty disappointed that it doesnt have a full carbon fork and steer tube like last years model. 
On a positive note the z4 looks like a steal at $2069 msrp.


----------



## jmorgan

delete


----------



## Superdave3T

olde5123 said:


> Well.... I just saw the specs on the 2013 F5. Im pretty disappointed that it doesnt have a full carbon fork and steer tube like last years model.
> On a positive note the z4 looks like a steal at $2069 msrp.


That is a mistake that will be corrected on the website. The F5 uses a full carbon monocoque fork including the carbon fiber controltaper 1.125" --> 1.5" steerer tube. The full carbon frame + fork remain from 2012.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## mindbreeze

What was the reason in switching the Z85 frame material from 7005 to 6061? Is it because of the hydroforming process on the tubing?

My new Z85 should be arriving tomorrow!


----------



## w4ta

Super Dave-

Do you think Felt will add a mechanical Dura Ace F2 to its 2013 offering? Or is the product line set and fixed for 2013 (in years past, I believe there were usually a couple of F2 configurations). Thanks.


----------



## bwbishop

Love the new, more muted colors of this years line. Very nice!


----------



## Superdave3T

mindbreeze said:


> What was the reason in switching the Z85 frame material from 7005 to 6061? Is it because of the hydroforming process on the tubing?
> 
> My new Z85 should be arriving tomorrow!


Starting with 6061 allows more manipulation of the tubes that yeilds a lighter more compliant frame. It isn't just the hydroforming technique, but the cold working of the tubes and mandrel work that allows more radical shapes and greater differences in the wall thicknesses.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

w4ta said:


> Super Dave-
> 
> Do you think Felt will add a mechanical Dura Ace F2 to its 2013 offering? Or is the product line set and fixed for 2013 (in years past, I believe there were usually a couple of F2 configurations). Thanks.


I don't think you'll see a Dura-Ace 9000 bike. Maybe if Degenkolb keeps winning Vuelta stages (4 and counting) and goes on to win worlds on his F1 with Dura-Ace 11 speed we'll do a limited edition version, who knows?

I feel most people spending $8000+ will be expecting electronic shifting by 2013.

We'll have F1 and FC framekits so you can work with your local Felt Dealer to create your own "F2 Dura-Ace" or use our consumer-based Custom Paint Program to select your own colors and options.

Thanks for the inquiry,
-SD


----------



## w4ta

Thanks SD- yep, I was hoping to see the DA 11-speed as an F2 option. May build one up. Thx.


----------



## 2thdoc

What cassettes do the 2013 Z3 and Z4 have? On the website under general information it shows the both have an 12-30 but in the technical specs the Z3 cassette is listed as an 11-28 and the Z4 as having an 11-32


----------



## Superdave3T

2thdoc said:


> What cassettes do the 2013 Z3 and Z4 have? On the website under general information it shows the both have an 12-30 but in the technical specs the Z3 cassette is listed as an 11-28 and the Z4 as having an 11-32


It depends on the market you'll be buying the bicycle in.

Z3 in the USA market will use 12-30t cassette.
The Z3 sold outside the USA will use 11-28t.

The Z4 will use the same 12-30t cassette for all global markets. The 11-32t cassette option was not made available to meet our OEM delivery needs. The bike will be compatible with 11-32t cassettes but Shimano will not produce a ROAD cassette with this gear combination.

Best,
-SD


----------



## adams90210

Superdave,

I'm also looking to get the 2013 F75. I was under the assumption that the frame color was matte black? I just checked on the website and the model being shown is white. Are both colors available? I'm not a fan of the white so I hope the black is still available. I'm in mid-west US. Thanks for your time.


----------



## Superdave3T

adams90210 said:


> Superdave,
> 
> I'm also looking to get the 2013 F75. I was under the assumption that the frame color was matte black? I just checked on the website and the model being shown is white. Are both colors available? I'm not a fan of the white so I hope the black is still available. I'm in mid-west US. Thanks for your time.


You are in luck, the Semi-Matte Black finish with outlined FELT artwork is still going to be offered in the USA. Production in the USA starts with the same 11-25t cassette that we used for 2012, but will eventually be equipped with the 11-28t size for the remainder of the model year after January or so. If you're in the MidWest, the 11-25t is probably enough gear when coupled with the FSA BB30 Compact 50/34t crankset.

Enjoy,
-SD


----------



## Phatz85

Hello all I'm riding a 2011 z85 with the stock 105 rear derailur,I'm debating doing a hilly century 9000 feet of climb with grades in excess of 10%. I wanted to switch out the rear cassette from 11-28 to 12-30 but was told I can't because the rear deraiuler would hit. What rear deraiuler do I need and will I need to tweak the adjustments when I want to go back to the 11-28. Thanks.


----------



## JokerSeven

So today I picked up my new 2011 Z85. Yes 2011...they actually still had a 2011 model on the floor. I was able to score an awesome deal. $750 out the door. 
One thing has me a little frustrated...the stem cap. It does not fit properly,as seen in the picture. I asked the shop about it. They said that they all fit that way. I know better, plus I was looking at 20 other Felts on the floor that were not this way. Not wanting to argue with the owner, because he did give me a great deal, I did not push the issue. How can I get an OEM Felt stem cap that properly fits my new bike ?


----------



## lesurfman

Actually, this is the top cap that came originally on your Z85
It is wider to fit the adjustable stem that is supposed to equip your bike.

At some point the LBS exchanged your stem for a 2012 F bike stem that is non adjustable.

You can buy a carbon fiber top cap that will fit better on FELT website


----------



## Superdave3T

JokerSeven said:


> So today I picked up my new 2011 Z85. Yes 2011...they actually still had a 2011 model on the floor. I was able to score an awesome deal. $750 out the door.
> One thing has me a little frustrated...the stem cap. It does not fit properly,as seen in the picture. I asked the shop about it. They said that they all fit that way. I know better, plus I was looking at 20 other Felts on the floor that were not this way. Not wanting to argue with the owner, because he did give me a great deal, I did not push the issue. How can I get an OEM Felt stem cap that properly fits my new bike ?


That's the right top cap on the Z85, it just isn't the original stem. That is a special cap that covers the eccentric adjustable shim. If the bar height is where you need it, just get a standard top cap. We sell a nice carbon cap + bolt on our webstore or you can have your local dealer order one.

$750 is an incredible deal on that bike, by the way. There isn't much different from 2011 to 2012. 2013 is a compete makeover on the frameset and cockpit parts, but 105 is 105. Enjoy the bke!
-SD


----------



## JokerSeven

Thanks for the fast response guys. I'll just order the Carbon cap & be done with it.
I guess I'll keep the other one as a souvenir


----------



## JokerSeven

Product registration will not allow the current year ?
Product Registration - Felt Bicycles

No option to enter 2012, only 2011 & back. Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## arctic biker

hello Dave
How does Felt see the future of frame materials, is carbon the holy grail or will we see
any serious development in aluframes? Or are factories manufacturing aluminium tubes doing anything anymore? And yes, I drive alufelt


----------



## TightLines

JokerSeven said:


> Product registration will not allow the current year ?
> Product Registration - Felt Bicycles[/url]
> 
> No option to enter 2012, only 2011 & back. Has anyone else noticed this?


Logged on to post the same issue...


----------



## chudak

Dave,

Do you know what kind of brakes are being used on the 2013 Z4? They aren't Shimano 105 like the rest of the gruppo. They look kind of like Tektro but they don't have a Tektro label. Maybe unlabeled Tektro brakes made for Felt?

Thanks!

Charles


----------



## Superdave3T

chudak said:


> Dave,
> 
> Do you know what kind of brakes are being used on the 2013 Z4? They aren't Shimano 105 like the rest of the gruppo. They look kind of like Tektro but they don't have a Tektro label. Maybe unlabeled Tektro brakes made for Felt?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Charles


Charles,

I assume you are looking at the Z4 on the USA website. Indeed the calipers are made for us by Tektro, we specify our own brake pad material, finish and hardware for the calipers and had their previous design repurposed to match with Shimano's new "SLR" cable pull introduced on Dura-Ace 7900 that has now migrated down to their Ultegra, 105, Tiagra, and Sora groups. Often times the calipers we source are only available on a FELT Bicycle because of some additional performance feature we add.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## chudak

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Charles,
> 
> *I assume you are looking at the Z4 on the USA website*. Indeed the calipers are made for us by Tektro, we specify our own brake pad material, finish and hardware for the calipers and had their previous design repurposed to match with Shimano's new "SLR" cable pull introduced on Dura-Ace 7900 that has now migrated down to their Ultegra, 105, Tiagra, and Sora groups. Often times the calipers we source are only available on a FELT Bicycle because of some additional performance feature we add.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


Well, on the website and in my living room as I picked one up earlier this week! :thumbsup:

Thanks for the info!


----------



## Superdave3T

TightLines said:


> Logged on to post the same issue...


fixing...qing xiao ho

-SD


----------



## mberthia

Hi SD,

I have a 2012 Z4 and would like to get the specs and geometry for future reference. The web site has been changed to the 2013 models so it no longer available. I should have though to save it before Sept 1st.

Thanks


----------



## Z6_esb

mberthia said:


> Hi SD,
> 
> I have a 2012 Z4 and would like to get the specs and geometry for future reference. The web site has been change to the 2013 models so it no longer available. I should have though to save it before Sept 1st.
> 
> Thanks


for z6 but should be the same. scroll to middle of page and it has specs: Wiggle | Felt Z6 Tiagra 2012 Road Bikes


----------



## Z6_esb

SuperDave,

I have 2012 Felt Z6 and I am thinking of upgrading groupset to SRAM Rival or Force. What BB will fit (or should I order)? I searched and found nothing and FSA's website is less than helpful with respect to finding out specifications given the limited markings on the components.

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

Z6_esb said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> I have 2012 Felt Z6 and I am thinking of upgrading groupset to SRAM Rival or Force. What BB will fit (or should I order)? I searched and found nothing and FSA's website is less than helpful with respect to finding out specifications given the limited markings on the components.
> 
> Thanks!


For 2012 and 2013 the Z6 frames use a threaded BB shell so SRAM's GXP BB is required.

If you do go the upgrade route, be sure to spend the extra cash on the latest version of the FORCE shifters. SRAM moved the internals of the old RED in the latest FORCE and they are a big improvement over the old FORCE and RIVAL. The rest of the group could be RIVAL and you wouldn't notice the difference in performance, just the gram scale.

-SD


----------



## Z6_esb

SuperdaveFelt said:


> For 2012 and 2013 the Z6 frames use a threaded BB shell so SRAM's GXP BB is required.
> 
> If you do go the upgrade route, be sure to spend the extra cash on the latest version of the FORCE shifters. SRAM moved the internals of the old RED in the latest FORCE and they are a big improvement over the old FORCE and RIVAL. The rest of the group could be RIVAL and you wouldn't notice the difference in performance, just the gram scale.
> 
> -SD


Thanks so much! That's the plan. Also, my LBS said the same thing. Wait a little bit and get "NEW" Force...the shifters at least. It's nice to hear that the bike shop and manufacturer have my interests in mind! I like the Z6 frame very much just want to upgrade for ergonomic reasons and a dislike for the Shimano shifting system. Thanks!


----------



## jmorgan

Dave, 

What is the reach on the new Z series for a 56 and 58cm, its not listed on the new site and I assume it has changed since last year. Also did the reach change on the AR or F series?

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

jmorgan said:


> Dave,
> 
> What is the reach on the new Z series for a 56 and 58cm, its not listed on the new site and I assume it has changed since last year. Also did the reach change on the AR or F series?
> 
> Thanks


The geo stays the same for all road model in all sizes except the petite and small ZW. B series and S32 are all new.

-SD


----------



## mechmech

SuperDave,

I was planning on cutting the seat post on a 2012 F6 for weight saving purposes. Is there a recommended length past the clamp that should be left?


----------



## Superdave3T

mechmech said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> I was planning on cutting the seat post on a 2012 F6 for weight saving purposes. Is there a recommended length past the clamp that should be left?


At least 77mm, I'd suggest 100mm in case you change saddles.

-SD


----------



## whyycharles

Hi, dave. My brother is giving me his old 2009 ar2, i was wondering if the 2009 ar2 can fit SRAM Red Black Group BB30 - Complete Factory Kit- BB30 ceramic Bottom Bracket? Thank you!


----------



## whyycharles

Hi, dave. My brother is giving me his old 2009 ar2, i was wondering if the 2009 ar2 can fit SRAM Red Black Group BB30 - Complete Factory Kit- BB30 ceramic Bottom Bracket? Since his old shifter is getting old. Thank you!


----------



## Superdave3T

whyycharles said:


> Hi, dave. My brother is giving me his old 2009 ar2, i was wondering if the 2009 ar2 can fit SRAM Red Black Group BB30 - Complete Factory Kit- BB30 ceramic Bottom Bracket? Since his old shifter is getting old. Thank you!


The AR2 cannot accept the BB30 ceramic Bottom Bracket but I don't think it will improve the shifting performance anyhow. The rest of the SRAM Red group will fit although you may have to tweak the front derailleur limit stop to get a quick upshift from small to big ring.

-SD


----------



## whyycharles

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The AR2 cannot accept the BB30 ceramic Bottom Bracket but I don't think it will improve the shifting performance anyhow. The rest of the SRAM Red group will fit although you may have to tweak the front derailleur limit stop to get a quick upshift from small to big ring.
> 
> -SD


So this one will work? Red GXP Ceramic Bottom Bracket


----------



## Superdave3T

whyycharles said:


> So this one will work? Red GXP Ceramic Bottom Bracket


Yes, that's the one for the AR frame, you'll also need the GXP crankset (not BB30).

-SD


----------



## whyycharles

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, that's the one for the AR frame, you'll also need the GXP crankset (not BB30).
> 
> -SD


same with the 2010 ar2 right?


----------



## DrStevil

Hey SuperDave,
I'm ready to bump my '11 F85 and move to the next level... Which leads to 2 questions.

1) When is the '13 AR3 expected to be available? (since the '12 in 51cm is out of stock)
2) Will it be available for order with SRAM Red WiFli? (I'm a flatlander that really needs as much help as I can get on the climbs)

Thanks in advance!

Steve DrStevil L
"Mini-me, you complete me"


----------



## Superdave3T

DrStevil said:


> Hey SuperDave,
> I'm ready to bump my '11 F85 and move to the next level... Which leads to 2 questions.
> 
> 1) When is the '13 AR3 expected to be available? (since the '12 in 51cm is out of stock)
> 2) Will it be available for order with SRAM Red WiFli? (I'm a flatlander that really needs as much help as I can get on the climbs)
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Steve DrStevil L
> "Mini-me, you complete me"


Steve,

Thanks for your note. AR3 are in stock now, we'll have a breif interuption in delivery due to the Interbike trade show, but they should be shipping before Oct 1st.

The AR3 uses Shimano Ultegra 10 speed shifting and could be set up to be compatible with the 12-30t Shimano gear range and swapped to a 50/34t chainring combo as it uses a compact crankset already.

-SD


----------



## z85guy

*Torque spec for devox saddle*

Wife bought me a Devox saddle with carbon rails that was on clearance last year. I love it. What is the proper Nm specs for tightening the seat post to the rails. Im having to level it every week becasue I dont want to over tighten?

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

z85guy said:


> Wife bought me a Devox saddle with carbon rails that was on clearance last year. I love it. What is the proper Nm specs for tightening the seat post to the rails. Im having to level it every week becasue I dont want to over tighten?
> 
> Thanks


That depends on the type of seatpost you have. Use torque paste on the rails and ~4-5Nm should do the trick.

-SD


----------



## Don4

Superdave --

This weekend while riding a century, the chain on my wife's 2010 Felt Z2 overshot the 12 cog (12-27 Dura Ace cassette) when upshifting in preparation for a descent. The chain dropped between the 12 cog and the frame at the dropout and ended up wedged pretty good. She pried it out  and continued the ride. 

Upon inspecting it tonight, it appears that their is some minor(?) damage at the point where the seat stay and the dropout come together. It also appears (photo attached -- see the "arrow" of the text box) that at this point, the frame has transitioned from carbon to, I'm guessing, aluminum. If I'm correct, I'm thinking that transition conveniently occurs under those world champion stripes! ;-)

This has only happened to her 3 times in the 7k miles she's put on the bike, but this time it really got wedged in there. I'm just hoping it's metal at that point vs carbon.

What's the verdict?

Thanks,

--Don4

P.S. Ignore the "Saddle is now level." watermark...I spend way too much time in The Lounge!

View attachment 264788


----------



## chudak

Don4 said:


> *What's the verdict?*


I'd suggest you make a point of adjusting the high limit screw if this keeps happening...


----------



## TDI Hoo

Super Dave,

I want to adjust the stem lower on my 2012 Z6. Should the plastic variable cam piece be placed with the flange on top (under the aluminum cap), or does the plastic flange go under the stem to rest on the spacer stack? 

And are there any printed instructions? I can see how there are two rise angles with the cam in the slot facing forward or backward (2 positions) with the stem angled up, and then 2 more with the cam forward or backward with the stem flipped over and angled down. Is this correct? 

Many thanks. I took it apart on my work stand and the whole fork dropped out. I put all of the shims under the conical spacer and stacked the other 3 spacers on top of the conical. I hope that's right.

Edit: I have this stem, I believe:
http://m.feltbicycles.com/productcatalog/estore/product/1/11511
It says there is +/- 5 and +/-15 degrees adjustability. On my bike's stem, it says +/- 4, +/-10, and +/- 14 degrees. How would I get those 6 adjustments?


----------



## Superdave3T

Don4 said:


> Superdave --
> 
> This weekend while riding a century, the chain on my wife's 2010 Felt Z2 overshot the 12 cog (12-27 Dura Ace cassette) when upshifting in preparation for a descent. The chain dropped between the 12 cog and the frame at the dropout and ended up wedged pretty good. She pried it out  and continued the ride.
> 
> Upon inspecting it tonight, it appears that their is some minor(?) damage at the point where the seat stay and the dropout come together. It also appears (photo attached -- see the "arrow" of the text box) that at this point, the frame has transitioned from carbon to, I'm guessing, aluminum. If I'm correct, I'm thinking that transition conveniently occurs under those world champion stripes! ;-)
> 
> This has only happened to her 3 times in the 7k miles she's put on the bike, but this time it really got wedged in there. I'm just hoping it's metal at that point vs carbon.
> 
> What's the verdict?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Don4
> 
> P.S. Ignore the "Saddle is now level." watermark...I spend way too much time in The Lounge!
> 
> View attachment 264788


Yes, the dropout there is metal. In the future, be sure the limit screw is adjusted correctly and if the chain does overshoot the 12t open the QR to remove/dislodge it.

-SD


----------



## Don4

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, the dropout there is metal. In the future, be sure the limit screw is adjusted correctly and if the chain does overshoot the 12t open the QR to remove/dislodge it.
> 
> -SD


Thanks SD!


----------



## Rob T

*Felt B2 Tri Bike Question*

I just purchased a used 2006 Felt B2 Tri Bike for my son. I need to lower the seat post basically all the way down, however I can not because it starts to curve out at the back of seat post about 3 to 4 inches from seat clamp so I can not get it all the way down into seat tube. Is there alternative Felt seat post I can use that is straight all the way up? 

Thanks,
Rob


----------



## ulu

*New z85*

I just purchased a z85 with a 700 x 25cm tire. I weight 195, and I wonder what pressure to use? I was thinking 110 rear and 100 front.


----------



## TDI Hoo

ulu said:


> I just purchased a z85 with a 700 x 25cm tire. I weight 195, and I wonder what pressure to use? I was thinking 110 rear and 100 front.



Go here:
Recommend Tire Pressure « Vittoria

On the right side of the page you input your casing TPI, weight, and road conditions. Very helpful. There is an Android and an iPhone app for this, too. You can find your Vittoria TPI on the website, too.


----------



## arctic biker

Tour-magazine tested last year 2011 F75 model. And they do measure Everything. Comfort-values were very good. Would my 2011 F85 be in same league?


----------



## w4ta

Dave-

I've been awaiting the feltracing.com site to update the F3 (Di2 Ultegra) weight. Nothing yet (many of the other bikes have listed weights). Can you tell me what the weight of the F3 will be. Many thanks.


----------



## Lasttye

*Felt F1*

I am looking at a Felt 2012 F1, Second hand size 58, I'am 6ft, inside leg 32 and a half, Advice would be well appreciated.


----------



## westofTML

*2012 felt da4w*

the 2012 FELT DA4W is my dream bike that I have been saving for all summer, as this was going to be my first purchase of a "new bike" I didn't really think about the fact they could run out before the end of the year (was also moving and no point in purchasing a new bike, and had a FELT representative contact who turned out to be very unhelpful).

I currently live in Vancouver, British Columbia canada. I got fit for the bike initially at a store in Vancouver and they found I need the 51 (medium) when they went to order it they couldn't get it. Since then I have contacted every FELT dealer locally, and ones in Ontario and ones in Calgary (now realizing their stock list is linked).....

Am I totally out of luck? Is there anyway I can get this bike still? Pay extra to have it imported into Canada?


----------



## mechmech

Dave!

I have a 2012 F6, but can't get used to the 172.5 crank arms and am going to have to go to 170 like my other bikes. What size BB does my bike have is it a BB30 or is it a 68mm?


----------



## flyinbriyin

*Carbon AR5 Broke, no help from Felt!*

I bought a 2011 Felt AR5 last August (2011). It's exactly 1 year old. I've put on maybe 1200 miles in the past year as a recreational rider. I was out riding last week (12 mph) and the rear derailer hangar broke in half sending the derailer and chain in to my back spokes busting several spokes and locking up the back tire. I went down and was luckily uninjured. The incident broke the lower right part of the frame, or the broken frame caused the derailer failure, I can't be sure. 

I took it in to the dealer and they contacted Felt. Felt says that it wasn't a frame problem and are refusing to honor the lifetime warranty. Is the hangar not part of the frame? I can't be sure and neither can felt that the frame didn't crack first causing the problem. How can they justify this?

Does anyone else have any answers to this conundrum?

I can't be out $2400 for my bike that I got 1 year of use out of. I had more faith in Felt.


----------



## whyycharles

Hey SuperDave.

I was looking in buy the felt carbon bottle cages, but its been out of stock on the felt main USA website? Any info when you will have more in stock? Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

whyycharles said:


> Hey SuperDave.
> 
> I was looking in buy the felt carbon bottle cages, but its been out of stock on the felt main USA website? Any info when you will have more in stock? Thanks


That's odd, I just recieved a pair myself for my new ride.
Have you contacted a FELT Dealer? Perhaps we're sold out in our consumer inventory.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

arctic biker said:


> Tour-magazine tested last year 2011 F75 model. And they do measure Everything. Comfort-values were very good. Would my 2011 F85 be in same league?


The frame would be similar but the fork on the F75 in the test is a much nicer fork than the F85 fork you have.

The F75 fork is actually the same fork as our FC and F3 level. It is only rivalled by our F1 in terms of torsional and lateral stiffness performance & fore-aft compliance.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

jmorgan said:


> Dave, do you know what the MSRP with be on the new AR4 and the total weight of the new bike. Wondering if I should try to get an '12 AR5 on sale maybe or wait for the new AR4. Also whats the color scheme?
> 
> Thanks


This should be on the website now. Be sure to click on the correct country as the product mix varies considerably in the road range globally.

-SD


----------



## toydriver00

SuperdaveFelt,

I litteraly just bought a 2012 Felt AR5 on Sunday. I brought it back to the dealer on Monday because the saddle was creaking badly. The dealer took it apart and lubed the mount for the saddle. I rode it a bit (no noise) and parked it until yesterday when I rode it and the saddle is creaking again. When the saddle is pushed to the left or right without me on it it will make the noise. The seat is shifting on the seat post. How do I get it to stop shifting, or get it to stop making the noise?

Thanks

Sean


----------



## mrbjor

Will the 2013 F1 be delivered to my local dealer with any spacers under the stem?


----------



## Superdave3T

mrbjor said:


> Will the 2013 F1 be delivered to my local dealer with any spacers under the stem?


Yes, 15mm on the tall headset cover, 2 x 10mm, & a 5mm spacer. The -7 degree stem is also "flippable" which provides two bar positions.

The actual difference in bar clamp height varies based on the extension length.

-SD


----------



## ejprez

Looking at a felt f or z frame. I'm 6'2 with a 91.7c inseam. The bike i ride now is a compact frame, and is 58cm according to the manufacturer, with a 58.2cm toptube, 55cm seatube, and 205mm headtube. The reach is 402mm, saddle height is 80.5cm center to top of saddle 

According to a recommedation I'm a 61 in the felt, but the seattube on the F is really high, 61cm and the reach is really long at 419 so would have to use a 100mm stem. The 58 seems like a better fit but the headtube is way shorter, and I use a very low position but think it's about 2cm too short. 

The z frame it looks like i can use either 58 or 61 and just adjust by using a different stem.

Just looking for a 2nd opinion.


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Looking at a felt f or z frame. I'm 6'2 with a 91.7c inseam. The bike i ride now is a compact frame, and is 58cm according to the manufacturer, with a 58.2cm toptube, 55cm seatube, and 205mm headtube. The reach is 402mm, saddle height is 80.5cm center to top of saddle
> 
> According to a recommedation I'm a 61 in the felt, but the seattube on the F is really high, 61cm and the reach is really long at 419 so would have to use a 100mm stem. The 58 seems like a better fit but the headtube is way shorter, and I use a very low position but think it's about 2cm too short.
> 
> The z frame it looks like i can use either 58 or 61 and just adjust by using a different stem.
> 
> Just looking for a 2nd opinion.


Sounds like you are on a Specialized now?

I'm almost the exact same height and use the same saddle height. You could make the 61cm work but I'd expect most people in your size range to ride a 58cm. I have a 58cm Z1 that I am very comfortable on. What do you plan to do on the bike?

-SD


----------



## ejprez

Wow, good guess, an s-works sl3 tarmac. I plan on doing all manner of races, crits and long road races 50-100 miles, though thought a z frame would be good to have for the added "comfort" if you can call it that, just wondered about the slacker head tube angle. The new Z frame is super light, lighter than my sl3, not the weight is a concern, but if I can get as light a frame, that rides nicer to do races on then why not if there's not really any penalty. Im gonna demo a F series bike tuesday 61cm, but there is no Z to demo, but at least I can rule out the F in 61 if it feels too big.

I think i'll be equally as fast and efficient on either frame, but the felt FC looks seems like a great deal for the price. Switching teams so that's why Im changing frames.


----------



## Superdave3T

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Sounds like you are on a Specialized now?
> 
> I'm almost the exact same height and use the same saddle height. You could make the 61cm work but I'd expect most people in your size range to ride a 58cm. I have a 58cm Z1 that I am very comfortable on. What do you plan to do on the bike?
> 
> -SD


I think the SL3 is going to be similar to the F-series in terms of ride quality. The old SL2 was a bit harsh but the newer models are much better. The SL4 has a slightly higher ultimate stiffness on their frame but a lower stiffness-to-weight ratio.

The F would be a more aggressive fit in terms of the bar height.
The trail on the F and Z are nearly identical so you won't feel "slow" handling on the Z at all, it is a very capable race bike if your posture preference suits the geometry.

For crits a 58cm Z may be a better choice than a 61cm F with a short & uprght stem.

-SD


----------



## ejprez

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I think the SL3 is going to be similar to the F-series in terms of ride quality. The old SL2 was a bit harsh but the newer models are much better. The SL4 has a slightly higher ultimate stiffness on their frame but a lower stiffness-to-weight ratio.
> 
> The F would be a more aggressive fit in terms of the bar height.
> The trail on the F and Z are nearly identical so you won't feel "slow" handling on the Z at all, it is a very capable race bike if your posture preference suits the geometry.
> 
> For crits a 58cm Z may be a better choice than a 61cm F with a short & uprght stem.
> 
> -SD


Oops Duh, I over looked the trail and only focused on head angle/tube and etc, so great to know the steering won't be sluggish, funny cause I was initially thinking a 58 z would be ideal. Again won't be able to demo one but still may jump in head first. The sl3 had a 205mm head tube, with a 15mm top cap and am using a 120mm x -17 rise Thomson stem, so my saddle to bar drop is about 12.5cm. Though on the 58 z I think the reach is 392, vs 402 for sl3, so then would use a 130mm stem I gather.


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Oops Duh, I over looked the trail and only focused on head angle/tube and etc, so great to know the steering won't be sluggish, funny cause I was initially thinking a 58 z would be ideal. Again won't be able to demo one but still may jump in head first. The sl3 had a 205mm head tube, with a 15mm top cap and am using a 120mm x -17 rise Thomson stem, so my saddle to bar drop is about 12.5cm. Though on the 58 z I think the reach is 392, vs 402 for sl3, so then would use a 130mm stem I gather.


Like I mentioned in the previous post; we're nearly the exact same size:

View attachment 266151


Z1 w/808mm saddle height, 130mm stem.


----------



## ejprez

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Like I mentioned in the previous post; we're nearly the exact same size:
> 
> Z1 w/808mm saddle height, 130mm stem.


Great looking bike, gonna debate going with a frame or just get a full bike like a Z5 with a lower spec, even though the frame is not UHC+. Any guess how big of tires you can put on? I thinkI can still get 25's on the sl3.


----------



## FeltF75rider

How does the SRAM Rival compare to the 105 on previous F5 models. I am really considering one for a second bike in the stable. I really like my 11' F75 but carbon has been calling me. I have pretty much used Shimano mixed with SRAM(rear cogs) on mountain bikes but the shifting has always been Shimano. The 105 works great and I am really not looking for something that will be a headache. I am not really clear on double tap and from what I have seen it looks confusing.


----------



## ejprez

I don't think it's confusing at all, I do think the current sram front shifting is not as good as 105. I switched from Red to Campy Chorus 11 and WOW, the front shifting is by far the best I've had. Magazines I read have said Shimanos is better, but I dont think, IMO campy has the best front shifting. However it is pretty costly. I will say my sram shifts great on my CX bike since it has a compact on the front 34/46. Rival, or a mix of rival and force is the best bang for the buck as far as cost to weight is concerned.


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Great looking bike, gonna debate going with a frame or just get a full bike like a Z5 with a lower spec, even though the frame is not UHC+. Any guess how big of tires you can put on? I thinkI can still get 25's on the sl3.


The Z bikes come with 25mm tires. You could fit some makers' 28mm tires depending on the brake calipers.

A complete bike is such a great value, it is tough to justify going the frameset route; even if the OEM parts become spares or retire to a beater/winter bike.

-SD


----------



## ejprez

Just curious what is the difference in weight and/or stiffness between UHC ultimate+, UHC Advanced and UHC Performance carbons as applied to any series frame.

Also what geometry is correct, the one listed for Z1 frame is different for all the other Z series 1-5, like a 58 Z1 frame has a shorter headtube than the Z1 bike, is that just a typo for the frameset geomtry?


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Just curious what is the difference in weight and/or stiffness between UHC ultimate+, UHC Advanced and UHC Performance carbons as applied to any series frame.
> 
> Also what geometry is correct, the one listed for Z1 frame is different for all the other Z series 1-5, like a 58 Z1 frame has a shorter headtube than the Z1 bike, is that just a typo for the frameset geomtry?


The weight difference depends on which model and which size, there are really too many variables to list every possible configuration that could affect the difference.

The stiffness is the same among the models, we do not reduce the performance of the bicycles when the lay up is adjusted.

The ride quality and weight are the two biggest differences typically among the lay up changes.

-SD


----------



## ejprez

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The weight difference depends on which model and which size, there are really too many variables to list every possible configuration that could affect the difference.
> 
> The stiffness is the same among the models, we do not reduce the performance of the bicycles when the lay up is adjusted.
> 
> The ride quality and weight are the two biggest differences typically among the lay up changes.
> 
> -SD


Ok that's good to know, some companies reduce stiffness when using lower grade carbon. Weight is a secondard concern, ride quality I can only imagine would feel less lively. I primarily want a stiff pedaling bike, had some flexy ones before.


----------



## ejprez

Sorry another question, will the campy bb30 adapter for ultra torque cranks work well in the f or z carbon bb30 shell.


----------



## Brooks04

I have a 2008 Felt Z15 and was wondering if there would be any noticeable performance benefits for me to upgrade to a new 2013 model. If so, what would the benefits be? I really like the geometry/performance of my Z15, but like the looks of the new 2013 with the internal cable routing. Also, what differences would the average cyclist notice in a medium size Z1 frame with the premium UHC Ultimate+Nano carbon fiber vs the other Z frame with the UHC Advanced Carbon Fiber?


----------



## wpcouch

mindbreeze said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I'm in the market for my first road bike in some 20 years. I most recently road a gary fischer mtb which seemed fine. I have been doing some research online, and have narrowed my selection down to the z85 or giant defy. I should point out that I am a 6' 245lbs, I have been trying to get in shape and have lost about half the weight I want to get off. I would still like to lose another 50 lbs. Having said that, I went to my LBS to get fitted. This was a giant/specialized dealer. They seemed like they were very knowledgeable and detailed when it came to the fitting. They said that my Torso was a little larger than average for my body type, and that the Defy might not be the best fit. We wanted to leave some room to "grow" when I lost some of my gut. They said that the 58" Specialized Allez would be a much better fit. The looks of the Allez really do not appeal to me, and I really like the looks of the new Felt Z85 and from the sounds of it, would fit my intents perfectly. Comfort, with room to grow as I lose some more weight and can get a little more aggressive with my style. Unfortunately I went to the closest Felt dealership, and while the gentleman was very nice and helpful, I didn't quite get that same level of confidence in his assessment of my fit. Which he really didn't do (I didn't want to just go in and ask what size bike I would fit on without buying anything). He basically just said looking at you standing over the Z85 you would probably be a 58. So finally, my question to you is, would that be an accurate assessment? As I mention I'm around 6'-6'1" and 245, with the hopes of getting down to around 200 or less. My torso longer than normal. Does the Z85 relate or have the adjust-ability to be fit to my body type? There is not another Felt dealership close enough that I can visit unfortunately.
> 
> Thanks so much for your consideration!


Hi mindbreeze

Thanks for the questions, and for considering a Felt! 

Unfortunately, questions regarding fit can be quite difficult to answer via the internet. My best suggestion is to have an experienced, reputable fitter suggest the proper size bike for you. By the sounds of it, your initial fitter falls into that category.

Based on his recommendation of a 58cm Allez, I think the 58cm Z85 will work just fine. The Allez is about 7mm longer in the top tube, with a 5mm taller head tube than the Z85. These are fairly negligible differences, and can easily be compensated for with minor position adjustments. 

We designed the Z85 to be the perfect performance bike for the vast majority of our riders. You get the benefit of F-like performance, but the adjustability to fit a wide range of riders and riding styles. We have a great video up, on our website, about the new Z/ZW lines for 2013, featuring our own SuperDave! Take a look.

Tech and Story Videos - Felt Bicycles

I think the Z85 would be a great fit for what you're looking to do.
That said, don't just take my word for it. I work for the company, or course I'm going to say buy one! Get out and test ride a Z bike. I think that will tell you everything you need to know.


----------



## wpcouch

mberthia said:


> Hi SD,
> 
> I have a 2012 Z4 and would like to get the specs and geometry for future reference. The web site has been changed to the 2013 models so it no longer available. I should have though to save it before Sept 1st.
> 
> Thanks


Try this:

Z4 - Felt Bicycles


----------



## wpcouch

nickpoz said:


> Can anyone point me in the direction of info for the 2013 Felt 960 which is replacing the Nine Sport? I know the frame is totally redesigned. What else is different? How would it compare to a Trek Mamba?


Detailed specs on the 2013 Nine 60 can be found here: Nine 60 - Felt Bicycles

I'm not completely familiar with Trek's Mamba, but after a brief comparison it appears that the specs are quite similar. 

As you mentioned, the Nine 60 frame was completely redesigned for 2013. All new hydroformed tubing, updated geometry to work with 100mm forks, and a tapered head tube have all gone a long way in improving the already excellent ride of our Nine series. 

However, as I always say, don't just take my word for it. Get out and ride one! The Nine 60 is available, and in many dealers now!


----------



## jmorgan

What adapter does Felt use when using Dura Ace/ Ultegra cranks on a BB30 bike?

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

jmorgan said:


> What adapter does Felt use when using Dura Ace/ Ultegra cranks on a BB30 bike?
> 
> Thanks!


It depends on the model but we've used a custom USA made adaptor + ceramic bearings from Enduro, Wheels adaptors with S&S bearings, and FSA's new 24mm reducers with FSA BB30 bearings.

Just about any aftermarket BB will work unless you have a frame with our clipless carbon fiber BB30 shell, on those models the Reset, and KCNC style thread-in adaptors don't work.

-SD


----------



## Racersir

I have a 2012 Felt FC with Shimano 105 I'm upgrading to SRAM Red Shifters my questions is can I use the same cable housings and just change the cables or do I need to change both? Thanks in advanced


----------



## Racersir

SuperDave I have an 2012 FC Frame is it safe to use my Felt FC on the trainer? Will it void the frame warranty? Thanks


----------



## TDI Hoo

Super Dave,

I have female colleague who wants to get a ZW100. She is coming from a GT Hybrid. 

She is 4 feet 9 inches and physically fit. She went to our local Felt dealer where I bought my 2012 Z6. The local Felt dealer does not have a petite ZW frame in stock. 

I know there are no guarantees, but how likely is the frame to fit her? She has to order the bike and pay for it first, since there is not a petite ZW frame in the shop. And the old web page with the suggested frame for person's height is no longer in use. 

Is there a particular body measurement that predicts whether or not she can be fitted to the bike?

Thanks very much!

Jon


----------



## adams90210

Any idea when the Felt Bottle Cages will be in stock again online?


----------



## arctic biker

Thank you Dave. As my experience is that F85 is really comfortable for a alubike. Fork replacement is already planned, probably will get Ritchey. Carbonblack in allwhite bike will look real nice.


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

*F4 Mudguards??*

Dave et al., 
I am back in the UK (Nor'n Iron) and am really seeng a lot more rain   than when I was in GA.

Are there, or, can you recommend, a decent set of mudguards for my F4?
What is the compatibility of my frame going to be like for mud guards? 

Thanks,
wotno


----------



## silverback843

I have a 2012 Z6. I am interested in installing the Ultegra di2 upgrade kit. Can I run wires internally with this frame? How does the front deraulier mount it looks like rivets? and what are the 2 threaded holes on the bottom side of the chain stay?


----------



## jmorgan

silverback843 said:


> I have a 2012 Z6. I am interested in installing the Ultegra di2 upgrade kit. Can I run wires internally with this frame? How does the front deraulier mount it looks like rivets? and what are the 2 threaded holes on the bottom side of the chain stay?


The 2012 Z6 can not run the wire internal without voiding your warranty (drilling holes). The front derailleur is is a "braze on" (rivets). You can mount the battery pack to the 2 threaded holes on the bottom of the chain stay.


----------



## tylercoville

I went to my LBS to order a 2013 z4 and they checked their computers and it said the soonest they can even order one right now would be nov. 2nd. Is there any chance this may change? They had a few 2013 z85's on the floor so it was a bit odd.


----------



## Superdave3T

tylercoville said:


> I went to my LBS to order a 2013 z4 and they checked their computers and it said the soonest they can even order one right now would be nov. 2nd. Is there any chance this may change? They had a few 2013 z85's on the floor so it was a bit odd.


I suppose it depends on where your LBS is. I assume you are in the USA. The product flow isn't constant throughout the year. At times we'll have inventory of a product and it may sell thru before additional inventory comes in. We may be between shipments of the Z4 in the USA. You may find a Z4 at one dealer who ordered it previously when it was available.

If you let me know where you are and who your LBS is I can look into the situation further with the sales department of the Felt distributor in your country.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## tylercoville

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I suppose it depends on where your LBS is. I assume you are in the USA. The product flow isn't constant throughout the year. At times we'll have inventory of a product and it may sell thru before additional inventory comes in. We may be between shipments of the Z4 in the USA. You may find a Z4 at one dealer who ordered it previously when it was available.
> 
> If you let me know where you are and who your LBS is I can look into the situation further with the sales department of the Felt distributor in your country.
> 
> Regards,
> -SD


I am in San Francisco. I went to the Sports Basement at 610 Old Mason St. I was looking at the 61cm wasn't sure if that may be a factor I know most of the shops I have been to don't have a lot of 60+ size bikes.

Thanks for looking into it.

Tyler


----------



## w4ta

Dave-

I currently ride a 2007 F2 56cm and will likely purchase the 2013 F1 Frame. What would be the most equivalent size for the 2013 F1 (I've looked at the geometry charts, and they appear to vary). Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

w4ta said:


> Dave-
> 
> I currently ride a 2007 F2 56cm and will likely purchase the 2013 F1 Frame. What would be the most equivalent size for the 2013 F1 (I've looked at the geometry charts, and they appear to vary). Thanks.


56cm remains the same fit with the same top tube and seat angle.

-SD


----------



## silverback843

Thanks for the info. One more question. Love the z6, it is a 58cm. I am a little under 5' 10" and 50 yrs old. I was fitted at the shop and the shop owner said it was a tad big but it trimmed out nice after fitting. I love the bike and am very comfortable riding it. I have about 1200 miles on it so far. I have had it for about 2 months. I recently got back into biking after about 15 years off the bike. Therefore the purchase of the z6. Prior to that I rode (and still do ride from time to time) a mid eighties Merckx that is a 54cm.

The other day I spotted a 2012 Z3 with di2 in another shop that I stop in from time to time. Great price given the time of year that it is. However, it is a 54cm. 

What are your thoughts on the diffrerence of those sizes? I will keep the z6, was just looking at adding the z3. Is there really that much difference??

Thanks so much!!!


----------



## jmorgan

> Thanks for the info. One more question. Love the z6, it is a 58cm. I am a little under 5' 10" and 50 yrs old. I was fitted at the shop and the shop owner said it was a tad big but it trimmed out nice after fitting. I love the bike and am very comfortable riding it. I have about 1200 miles on it so far. I have had it for about 2 months. I recently got back into biking after about 15 years off the bike. Therefore the purchase of the z6. Prior to that I rode (and still do ride from time to time) a mid eighties Merckx that is a 54cm.
> 
> The other day I spotted a 2012 Z3 with di2 in another shop that I stop in from time to time. Great price given the time of year that it is. However, it is a 54cm.
> 
> What are your thoughts on the diffrerence of those sizes? I will keep the z6, was just looking at adding the z3. Is there really that much difference??
> 
> Thanks so much!!!


I had a 58cm Z6 and I am right at 6ft and it was too big for me (seat was all the way forward with a zero offset seatpost and an 80mm stem and still felt like I was reaching). Road some 56cm bikes and they fit me much better. There's a huge difference between 58 and 54. You should be 54-56, test ride the 54, you will be able to tell it is different. 

I also just test road one of the new 2013 Z5's and its much better then the 2012's. This new frame is stiffer, has internal cable routing, ect... 2013 is a much better frame, I would look for one if you can, it is well worth the price difference. When Dave says the Z series leaped ahead 3 generations, he is not kidding.


----------



## bwbishop

I am right at 6ft and ride a 58 with a 90mm stem and a new offset seat post since the stock post wasn't tall enough. So be careful comparing sizes based only on height.


----------



## mrbjor

does anyone know if there some difference between ar1 2012 framset and 2013 ar1 frameset? I can not see any changes on the 2013 spec of the ar1.


----------



## jmorgan

2013 is lighter by a bit.


----------



## silverback843

I have a 2012 z6 and I am in the process of buying a 2012 z3 di2. What is the difference in the frames??


----------



## bwbishop

silverback843 said:


> I have a 2012 z6 and I am in the process of buying a 2012 z3 di2. What is the difference in the frames??


If they are the same year there is zero difference other than color. The Z1 is better but all the other Zs are identical.


----------



## jmorgan

If you can I would get a 2013 frame, big improvement.


----------



## silverback843

Super Dave,

Sell me on the 2013 z2 vs the 2012 z3 that I found at a great price. I have a 2012 z6 that I love, just looking to add one to the stable. Like the ultegra di2 etc.

What are the positive differences for a 50 year old clydesdale!!

Thanks!!


----------



## CMJTperry

I have a 2011 z85 that I am considering giving to my son if it fits him, my local shop has taken in a 2010 F5 that I really like and it is a pretty decent price (I think) at $1299 and looks like new. I really love the Z85 and am concerned about the reach on the F5 is there any way to raise the handlebars/handlebar stem to get in a more comfortable position (kinda like the Z85) or is that not possible? Any help is appreciated , I am going to take a ride on it Wed am.


----------



## Brooks04

silverback843 said:


> Super Dave,
> 
> Sell me on the 2013 z2 vs the 2012 z3 that I found at a great price. I have a 2012 z6 that I love, just looking to add one to the stable. Like the ultegra di2 etc.
> 
> What are the positive differences for a 50 year old clydesdale!!
> 
> Thanks!!


I would really like to know the answer to this as well. I ride a 2008 Felt Z15 and I am considering a 2013 if there are enough positive differences. I also would like to know the benefits of the UHC Ultimate+Nano carbon fiber used on the Z1 frame vs the other Z series carbon frames.


----------



## mrkartoom

I have a noob question about Felt models. Hopefully this is an okay place to ask. I'm looking to start doing a lot more road riding for exercise and training. I've never done much other than casual riding with the family on my hybrid, which I'm looking to convert to a road bike and start getting out. I'm leaning toward less aggressive ergo like the Z4, but want to make sure the F series is not something I should also consider. Just had foot surgery, so it will be a while before I can actually try anything out.

I will not be racing, but doing mostly shorter distance solo riding (25-40 miles) in the surrounding hills with lots of climbing and elevation changes. I may do some longer rides, but I'm more interested in climbing. Having never been a road rider I'm just not sure if a more relaxed ergo would be of benefit or if something more aggressive would be better for my purpose.


----------



## scubaklook

I tried both the Z and the F when I was looking for a road bike. When I first tried the Z it was more relaxed then my touring/commuter bike. They had the stem with the highest rise and a the top of the spacers. I wasnt really all that excited about it. 

I also tried out an F series which was a blast. When they found I liked that much better they set up the Z more aggressively for me and it was much better. I would have been happy with either. I thought the F series was surprisingly comfortable, at least for me. I did go with the Z because comfort was the main priority and I was looking for something lighter than my 35lbs touring bike for century+ rides. I think I would have been pretty happy with the F for shorter rides maybe centuries as well. I may consider one in the future as it was very fun to ride. So I would recommend trying both and see what feels good to you. The Z is nice because you can go from very relaxed or much more aggressive as your needs/wants change. The F seemed to be less flexible but if you like it from the beginning it wouldn't matter.


----------



## mrkartoom

scubaklook said:


> I tried both the Z and the F when I was looking for a road bike. When I first tried the Z it was more relaxed then my touring/commuter bike. They had the stem with the highest rise and a the top of the spacers. I wasnt really all that excited about it.
> 
> I also tried out an F series which was a blast. When they found I liked that much better they set up the Z more aggressively for me and it was much better. I would have been happy with either. I thought the F series was surprisingly comfortable, at least for me. I did go with the Z because comfort was the main priority and I was looking for something lighter than my 35lbs touring bike for century+ rides. I think I would have been pretty happy with the F for shorter rides maybe centuries as well. I may consider one in the future as it was very fun to ride. So I would recommend trying both and see what feels good to you. The Z is nice because you can go from very relaxed or much more aggressive as your needs/wants change. The F seemed to be less flexible but if you like it from the beginning it wouldn't matter.


Thanks for the feedback. Good info.


----------



## bikerneil

*Z Question*

I am considering a Z with electronic Dura Ace. A local bike shop has a 2012 Z2 at a killer price, but I am wondering if I should wait and splurge on the 2013. Is it now called the Z1?

What are the differences between the 2012 and 2013 bikes?
- Weight?
- Design?
- Components?


Thanks.


----------



## silverback843

Slightly lighter, all new frame, components the same


----------



## daehnomel

*2012 AR4 front dropout concern*

I picked up a 2012 Felt AR4 this past August. The other day I noticed a small crack had formed on the left front fork dropout. The crack is about 1cm long and is on the crease near the front "C" shaped portion just above where the skewer depression is. At first I thought that the crack was just a paint chip but I looked again and there's definitley a bit of missing material underneath the area. I think this missing material may have caused the crack to happen in the first place. I was concerned that the crack could eventually cause delamination and strucutural failiure so I brought the bike into the felt dealer for inspection and a possible warranty claim. The technician there probed the crack site and removed a bit of paint in the process revealing the small depression in the material below the paint. The technician told me that the entire dropout area was aluminum and not carbon fiber so I had nothing to worry about. Today I double checked the techs claims on felt's website and it turns out he was wrong, the dropout's are Carbon Fiber. I've already sent a message to Felt but I know it takes a while for them to respond. My quesions are:

-Is this really a cause for concern?
-Does anyone know for sure the construction of the AR4 fork dropouts?
-Has this happened to anyone else?
-Is there a quicker way to contact felt?
-This is pretty manufacturer specific but if you have dealt with fealt for warranty before you may know. If this turns out to be a warranty claim will I get a 2012 fork or a 2013? IMHO the 2013 paint scheme is not nearly as cool as the 2012 and I'd like to keep my 2012. 

Thanks!


----------



## wpcouch

daehnomel said:


> I picked up a 2012 Felt AR4 this past August. The other day I noticed a small crack had formed on the left front fork dropout. The crack is about 1cm long and is on the crease near the front "C" shaped portion just above where the skewer depression is. At first I thought that the crack was just a paint chip but I looked again and there's definitley a bit of missing material underneath the area. I think this missing material may have caused the crack to happen in the first place. I was concerned that the crack could eventually cause delamination and strucutural failiure so I brought the bike into the felt dealer for inspection and a possible warranty claim. The technician there probed the crack site and removed a bit of paint in the process revealing the small depression in the material below the paint. The technician told me that the entire dropout area was aluminum and not carbon fiber so I had nothing to worry about. Today I double checked the techs claims on felt's website and it turns out he was wrong, the dropout's are Carbon Fiber. I've already sent a message to Felt but I know it takes a while for them to respond. My quesions are:
> 
> -Is this really a cause for concern?
> -Does anyone know for sure the construction of the AR4 fork dropouts?
> -Has this happened to anyone else?
> -Is there a quicker way to contact felt?
> -This is pretty manufacturer specific but if you have dealt with fealt for warranty before you may know. If this turns out to be a warranty claim will I get a 2012 fork or a 2013? IMHO the 2013 paint scheme is not nearly as cool as the 2012 and I'd like to keep my 2012.
> 
> Thanks!


Hi daehnomel,

First of all, thanks for buying a FELT! I hope you are enjoying the bike (aside from this issue, of course)

To answer your questions:
*-Is this really a cause for concern?* Any time there is a potential crack or damage to carbon there is cause for concern. You have already done the correct first steps, which is to take the bike to your dealer and contact Felt. 
*-Does anyone know for sure the construction of the AR4 fork dropouts?* As our 2012 site states, the dropouts on your fork are carbon. 
*-Is there a quicker way to contact felt?* Please send me a PM with all of your contact info and dealer name. I will forward it to our warranty department to give them an early heads up. You will still have to take your bike to your dealer to process any potential warranty claims. Warranty will want your serial number and a few good photos of the area in question
*-This is pretty manufacturer specific but if you have dealt with fealt for warranty before you may know. If this turns out to be a warranty claim will I get a 2012 fork or a 2013? IMHO the 2013 paint scheme is not nearly as cool as the 2012 and I'd like to keep my 2012.* We do our best to make any and all warranty claims as quick and painless as possible. We're all cyclists, so we understand what it's like to be without your bike! We make every effort possible to replace items with an exact duplicate, graphics included. That said, sometimes it's simply not possible. In the event we cannot send an exact match, we will send an item of equal or superior quality.

I hope this helps, and I'll be looking for your PM


----------



## wpcouch

silverback843 said:


> Super Dave,
> 
> Sell me on the 2013 z2 vs the 2012 z3 that I found at a great price. I have a 2012 z6 that I love, just looking to add one to the stable. Like the ultegra di2 etc.
> 
> What are the positive differences for a 50 year old clydesdale!!
> 
> Thanks!!


SD is currently overseas,

The major difference between the bikes is in the frame. For 2013 we completely redesigned the Z series frame, from the ground up. Aside from the vastly popular geometry, we updated every millimeter of the frame which resulted in, I believe, the best all around road frame on the market.

Felt has always had a racing heritage, and that is still readily seen in the new Z frame. Features like a tapered head tube, BB30 BB, internal cable routing, size specific carbon layups and InsideOut molding mean that the Z frame will be equally at home in a Tour de France stage, or at your local lunch ride. You get the performance characteristics of our all-out F series race frames, but with added vertical compliance, vibration dampening and fit versatility to suit nearly any rider out there. 

I've put quite a few miles on a 2013 Z5 this fall, and have been amazed at how responsive and fun to ride it is. I wouldn't hesitate to take this bike to any of my local club races, or out on a century ride. My best suggestion is to get to a dealer and ride any of the new 2013 Z bikes. You will be pleasantly surprised.

That said, the 2012 Z3 is still a fantastic bike, especially if you can find one at a good price. Geometry and components between the two bikes are largely the same, so the real difference will come from the performance characteristics between the two.


----------



## wpcouch

bikerneil said:


> I am considering a Z with electronic Dura Ace. A local bike shop has a 2012 Z2 at a killer price, but I am wondering if I should wait and splurge on the 2013. Is it now called the Z1?
> 
> What are the differences between the 2012 and 2013 bikes?
> - Weight?
> - Design?
> - Components?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Hi bikerneil

Take a look at my previous post regarding '12 vs '13 Z frames. All of that will apply here. As I said there, I highly recommend that you test ride the new Z frame (any will do) as I expect you will be pleasantly surprised. 

There are a few other features/points between the two bikes you're considering:

The 2013 Z1 uses our UHC Ulitmate + Nano carbon, an upgrade vs. the 2012 Z2
The '13 Z1 uses the new 11sp Dura Ace Di2 system vs. 10sp on the '12
The '13 Z1 features Mavic Ksyrium SLR wheels vs. the Shimano RS80 on the '12

I hope this helps, and please feel free to ask any follow up questions


----------



## Mr. Clean

I've got a 2011 Z6. I love the frame but of course the promise of extra stiffness and GAS leads me to want a 2013. I've done a lot to my bike in the form of upgraded components. Would it be worthwhile just to wait it out and try to find a frame on eBay or another avenue?

*Yes, I realize the 2013 frame will not make me any faster.


----------



## jmorgan

You could get a Z5 and swap your stuff over from the z6 and sell the Z6 as a complete bike. 

The new Z series is much improved.


----------



## IRFilter

i live on long island in New York...anyone in here from that area and know of the best LBS to by a Felt? looking for a f5 ( i think)


----------



## yorkcb7

SD,

I have a 2011 Felt B16 which I purchased new this summer. Probably have less than 800 miles on it, used for very little training and used for racing. It still has the TTR wheels on it. I was cleaning it and noticed a crack on the wheel. Goes from one lip of the clincher to the other lip. What kind of warranty is there? They should last longer than 800 miles, please let me know what you think.

Feltspinner


----------



## wpcouch

yorkcb7 said:


> SD,
> 
> I have a 2011 Felt B16 which I purchased new this summer. Probably have less than 800 miles on it, used for very little training and used for racing. It still has the TTR wheels on it. I was cleaning it and noticed a crack on the wheel. Goes from one lip of the clincher to the other lip. What kind of warranty is there? They should last longer than 800 miles, please let me know what you think.
> 
> Feltspinner


Hi Feltspinner,

Thanks for the question, and for buying a Felt! I hope that you have been enjoying it. 

What you are seeing may not be a crack. All aluminum rims will have a seem in them, where the "loop" of the rim is closed, that should look very similar to what you are describing. 

To be on the safe side (since I can't see your wheel) I recommend that you have your local Felt dealer take a look to confirm. If, in fact, there is an issue, they can contact Felt Dealer Support for replacement options

I hope this helps, and please feel free to ask any other questions


----------



## woodys737

Superdave,

Can you verify how Felt measures stack height? I'd like to compare to my curent ride which is a Colnago CX-1 52s. Thinking of a FC frame set size 54 but the 120mm head tube and 526mm stack height is throwing me off. Center of BB to?

Thx!

edit..somehow this was supposed to be at the end of the thread. grrr


----------



## whyycharles

Hi, Dave

I been wanting to buy the felt carbon bottle cages, and all the dealers around me in New York, does not carry them? I was wondering if there was a online site i can order it from? On the felt webpage , the cages are listed out of stock. I wanted the carbon cages with the red logo, do you think you can help me out?

Carbon Bottle Cage - Felt Bicycles


----------



## freeheeler1690

*Which Felt*

My wife is a newcomer to road bikes

We have been searching for a bike and came across the Felt ZW5 in a store, it was the 2012 model

IThe original price was $2295

I noticed from your site that the new (2013) ZW5 is priced at $1799 on your website and the ZW4 is priced at $2099

Is it worth waiting for the newer versions/ Is there a difference in the specs?


----------



## jpaschal01

freeheeler1690 said:


> My wife is a newcomer to road bikes
> 
> We have been searching for a bike and came across the Felt ZW5 in a store, it was the 2012 model
> 
> IThe original price was $2295
> 
> I noticed from your site that the new (2013) ZW5 is priced at $1799 on your website and the ZW4 is priced at $2099
> 
> Is it worth waiting for the newer versions/ Is there a difference in the specs?


The 2012 zW5 was spec'ed with 105. 2013 is spec'ed with Tiagra. Gotta go with ZW4 in the 2013 to get 105. There are other spec differences. Just google the bikes by model year and you can find all the differences.


----------



## FeltF75rider

when will the Carbon bottle cages be available again? I need another white one and the site says out of stock.


----------



## freeheeler1690

jpaschal01 said:


> The 2012 zW5 was spec'ed with 105. 2013 is spec'ed with Tiagra. Gotta go with ZW4 in the 2013 to get 105. There are other spec differences. Just google the bikes by model year and you can find all the differences.


Thanks, so if i can find a 2012 at a good price it looks like it would be a good deal. Do you know when the 2013 bikes are due inside stores?


----------



## commfire

I was hoping someone could tell me the differences between the F1 and FC Framesets. Speifically looking for info on different technology and weights...in a 58cm if possible. 
Thanks


----------



## whyycharles

SuperdaveFelt said:


> That's odd, I just recieved a pair myself for my new ride.
> Have you contacted a FELT Dealer? Perhaps we're sold out in our consumer inventory.
> 
> -SD


yea, i have tried 2 of my local felt dealers and they dont have them in stock and dont know when they will receive them..


----------



## Rashadabd

commfire said:


> I was hoping someone could tell me the differences between the F1 and FC Framesets. Speifically looking for info on different technology and weights...in a 58cm if possible.
> Thanks


They have different carbon layups as I understand it and in my limited testing of the two a year or two ago, the F1 felt much stiffer. I personally think the FC (same as the F5, F4, F3 unless something changed) is the sweet spot on Felt F Series bikes unless you are a pro or very serious racer. You get great stiffness to weight (at a level that can compete with anybody) and yet added comfort that most of us welcome. Both bikes were raced by pro teams last year if that tells you anything about the quality. I could be biased though because I am a huge fan of the FC (F5, F4, F3) and think it is one of the best values in the business (along with the base Cervelo R3).


----------



## commfire

*Thanks*

It does seem that the FC is one of the best values out there. I feel the same about my F1x I have been using all cross season. 
My goal is to build up a stiff no nonsense bike. I want it to be a true race bike that will see quite a few circuit races and crits with the occasional road race. I thought I just read on another forum that SD mentioned the FC had the same stiffness numbers as the F1.
So at 170lbs the Fc will give me the same race feel as the F1?
If so its a no brainer then.


----------



## woodys737

commfire said:


> It does seem that the FC is one of the best values out there. I feel the same about my F1x I have been using all cross season.
> My goal is to build up a stiff no nonsense bike. I want it to be a true race bike that will see quite a few circuit races and crits with the occasional road race. I thought I just read on another forum that SD mentioned the FC had the same stiffness numbers as the F1.
> So at 170lbs the Fc will give me the same race feel as the F1?
> If so its a no brainer then.


Which forum? I'd like to read it as I have an FC coming this December (it's on the boat)! Search at Slowtwitch, etc...seems like it doesn't help find what I'm looking for. ymmv.


----------



## adams90210

adams90210 said:


> Any idea when the Felt Bottle Cages will be in stock again online?


Bump. Never got an answer to this. Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

woodys737 said:


> Which forum? I'd like to read it as I have an FC coming this December (it's on the boat)! Search at Slowtwitch, etc...seems like it doesn't help find what I'm looking for. ymmv.


The FC and the F1 are built to the same stiffness, the only difference is stiffness to weight (much higher on the F1 and higher than anything else available today except R5CA) The F1 has a more forgiving ride, lighter overall weight, and looks that kill.

The FC is; as one of our former pro test riders put it: A bike you can win the Tour De France on.

-SD


----------



## shinnster

*felt ar 1*

I have an felt ar1 frame. currently i'm running ultegra di2 with standard 53/39 crankset.

Is it possible to run a 52/36 crankset on this frame. the concern is the ability of the front derailleur to clear the shifting cable boss stop located between the cranks. I could cut this part off since i'm using di2 and do not need it, however i believe it will void warranty and do not want to do that. 

I know on other ar frames this is possible but the front shifting cable is handled differently than the one on the ar1 frame.

Any suggestions?


----------



## shinnster

I have an felt ar1 frame. currently i'm running ultegra di2 with standard 53/39 crankset.

Is it possible to run a 52/36 crankset on this frame. the concern is the ability of the front derailleur to clear the shifting cable boss stop located between the cranks. I could cut this part off since i'm using di2 and do not need it, however i believe it will void warranty and do not want to do that. 

I know on other ar frames this is possible but the front shifting cable is handled differently than the one on the ar1 frame.

Any suggestions?


----------



## CMJTperry

Just bought two new Felt bikes. One for my place in Maine and one for my house in Florida. Both 2012 models that were on sale. I know the 2013 (Z series) are different and I guess better but since I was buying 2 I thought I would take price into consideration. I also bought two bikes for my wife as well as a 2010 Felt F5 for my son so it's been an expensive couple months. I bought a Z85 for Florida and a Z6 for Maine and love them both. Extremely happy with them, my son loves his F5 and my wife is happy with her bikes as well. Love riding and love my Felts!!!


----------



## commfire

*Felt di2*

Dave, any idea when the f1 di2 will be shipping in the US?


----------



## Superdave3T

commfire said:


> Dave, any idea when the f1 di2 will be shipping in the US?


The entire industry is waiting on Shimano to deliver Dura-Ace Di2 11 speed 9070 components. Based on the latest information I have, I'd exepct them by the first week of January.

You won't find the new 11 speed Di2 on anyones bike yet.
-SD


----------



## Risk3233

Does the 2013 F5 accommodate 23mm wide rims and 700x25 tires?

Are there any clearance issues?

Aloha.


----------



## Superdave3T

Risk3233 said:


> Does the 2013 F5 accommodate 23mm wide rims and 700x25 tires?
> 
> Are there any clearance issues?
> 
> Aloha.


Yes, I am using this exact combination on my F series bike now.

-SD


----------



## shinnster

I have an felt ar1 frame. currently i'm running ultegra di2 with standard 53/39 crankset.

Is it possible to run a 52/36 crankset on this frame. the concern is the ability of the front derailleur to clear the shifting cable boss stop located between the cranks. I could cut this part off since i'm using di2 and do not need it, however i believe it will void warranty and do not want to do that. 

I know on other ar frames this is possible but the front shifting cable is handled differently than the one on the ar1 frame.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Superdave3T

shinnster said:


> I have an felt ar1 frame. currently i'm running ultegra di2 with standard 53/39 crankset.
> 
> Is it possible to run a 52/36 crankset on this frame. the concern is the ability of the front derailleur to clear the shifting cable boss stop located between the cranks. I could cut this part off since i'm using di2 and do not need it, however i believe it will void warranty and do not want to do that.
> 
> I know on other ar frames this is possible but the front shifting cable is handled differently than the one on the ar1 frame.
> 
> Any suggestions?


The 52/36t combo can be fitted to the AR1 frame. I have a 50/34t Zipp crankset on my AR1.

-SD


----------



## Imaking20

^pics or BS


----------



## Superdave3T

FeltF75rider said:


> when will the Carbon bottle cages be available again? I need another white one and the site says out of stock.


38 days.


----------



## Superdave3T

Imaking20 said:


> ^pics or BS


Of my F1 with SR EPS and Felt CXR 'cross wheels and Hutchinson tires

or

my AR1 with Micro.shift, AeroRoad2 carbon wheels, and Zipp Vumaquad cranks?

-SD


----------



## Risk3233

What is the seatpost diameter and offset on the OEM seatpost on the 2013 F5?


----------



## bwbishop

Both!


----------



## Superdave3T

Risk3233 said:


> What is the seatpost diameter and offset on the OEM seatpost on the 2013 F5?


27.2mm +0.00/-0.10mm
15mm rear offset.

-SD


----------



## Jiblet

*New chain*

Apologies if this is a stupid question but I'm looking for a new chain for a Felt Z6 2012.
Given that I've only had the bike 7 weeks and have only put about 350 miles on it before the stock chain has stretched to the point my tool says its time to change it (0.75), I would rather steer clear of another FSA chain.

Granted, those 250 miles have been in some pretty wet and muddy conditions, but that seems a bit ridiculous.

Anyway, am I ok to get any chain so long as its 10 speed? Or is there some further limitation as to what chain I can use?

Current info:
Chainset: FSA Omega, compact 50x34
Chain: FSA Team Issue
Cassette: Shimano 12-30


----------



## Jiblet

Apologies if this is a stupid question but I'm looking for a new chain for a Felt Z6 2012.
Given that I've only had the bike 7 weeks and have only put about 350 miles on it before the stock chain has stretched to the point my tool says its time to change it (0.75), I would rather steer clear of another FSA chain.

Granted, those 250 miles have been in some pretty wet and muddy conditions, but that seems a bit ridiculous.

Anyway, am I ok to get any chain so long as its 10 speed? Or is there some further limitation as to what chain I can use?

Current info:
Chainset: FSA Omega, compact 50x34
Chain: FSA Team Issue
Cassette: Shimano 12-30


----------



## bwbishop

Any 10 speed chain. Ultegra is a good value.


----------



## Jiblet

Thank you, thats good news. I was hoping I could use a "Shimano Ultegra 6701 10 Speed Chain" as that seems a decent price. 

Do you know though if I would be able to use the FSA quick links that I have on the chain? They're great for dismantling for cleaning and it seems that Shimano don't have anything similar?

Oh and I presume that the chain would come with at least one of those special connector pins of theirs? Or do I need to get some of those too?


----------



## bwbishop

Not sure about quick Links. The chain will come with two pins, so you should have one extra.


----------



## Justanislandboy

Hey guys! I'm looking at the Z5 and the Z85. My main question comes from my mother's boyfriend who has an abnormal fear of all carbon bikes. He hasn't expressly come out and said it, but I think he is worried about my weight with an all carbon frame. I am 6'2" and right now about 310lbs. (Hoping to drop a considerable amount by next riding season on my winter trainer)

I know the Specialized Roubaix has a recommended max weight of 285lbs. Even though the dealer said that limit is probably quite a bit lower than what the max really is. As far as the Z5 goes, what is the max weight on that frame? Do you have any concern with my weight? Would I be better to start out on the Z85, lose some weight, and then go to the Z5 or Z4 later down the line?


----------



## wpcouch

adams90210 said:


> Bump. Never got an answer to this. Thanks.


Carbon cages are in stock, now, in both colors. You can order them from our web store:

Carbon Bottle Cage - Felt Bicycles


----------



## bwbishop

That's great that you're getting into cycling, it's a great way to shed weigh, and you certainly can't go wrong with any of the Felt bikes!

Personally, I wouldn't risk it with a full carbon, because while it may be fine 99% of the time, you could always hit that big pothole you didn't see and that impulse would put a lot of extra stress on the frame. If I were in your position, I would buy the Z85 and then set a weight goal of like 60-75 pounds and when you hit it, celebrate by buying a new svelte Z5! Make that sexy beast the light at the end of your tunnel 

Good luck!


----------



## fuzzjunk

w4ta said:


> Dave-
> 
> I've been awaiting the feltracing.com site to update the F3 (Di2 Ultegra) weight. Nothing yet (many of the other bikes have listed weights). Can you tell me what the weight of the F3 will be. Many thanks.


I'd like to know this as well, as I am deciding on the F3 UDi2 or an FC build with Force.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

fuzzjunk said:


> I'd like to know this as well, as I am deciding on the F3 UDi2 or an FC build with Force.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I just happened to have a 56cm bike show up at our office so I had the chance to throw it on the scale. The model I have is the latest version with Shimano's new RS61 wheels. Initial production of the F3 came with Ultegra WH-6700 wheels. With the reflectors, all OEM bits, and uncut steerer tube the bike was 17.12 pounds.

Happy Holidays,
-SD


----------



## commfire

*Cable guides*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> I just happened to have a 56cm bike show up at our office so I had the chance to throw it on the scale. The model I have is the latest version with Shimano's new RS61 wheels. Initial production of the F3 came with Ultegra WH-6700 wheels. With the reflectors, all OEM bits, and uncut steerer tube the bike was 17.12 pounds.
> 
> Happy Holidays,
> -SD


I am currently building up a brand new 2013 F1. This is my first time building up a frameset.
I am trying to install the jagwire brake cables but the end caps are too big for the cable guides on the frame. The cables do fit nicely without the end caps.
My question is are the end caps necessary? Has anyone else had the problem of fitting jagwire stuff onto felt frames?

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

commfire said:


> I am currently building up a brand new 2013 F1. This is my first time building up a frameset.
> I am trying to install the jagwire brake cables but the end caps are too big for the cable guides on the frame. The cables do fit nicely without the end caps.
> My question is are the end caps necessary? Has anyone else had the problem of fitting jagwire stuff onto felt frames?
> 
> Thanks


You could run the standard housing directly into the stops. The Shimano thin-walled ferrules will fit as will the "stepped" Jagwire housing ferrules with 5.5mm O.D. Their standard machined aluminum ferrules are oversize and will not fit the carbon stops.

-SD


----------



## JacksonMarshall

I was wondering if anyone had any good pictures of the 2013 F1 frame or complete bike? Looking to possibly build up an F1 frame with either the new Sram Red or the new Force. Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

That sounds like the perfect project for the F1 Custom Paint program!

-SD


----------



## JacksonMarshall

I was actually thinking of doing that! I work a a bike shop in Maine and was wondering if that could be part of an employee purchase?


----------



## NeilBuck

Hey guys, hello from the UK, wonder if you guys can help, I have a ex 2009 Garmin Team F1 Sprint and I love it, the forks have the lawer lips filed out, I know thats a pro thing anyhow but does anyone have a set or can get a set of the correct forks for it, so I can have that piece of mind!


----------



## deviousalex

Hi Dave,
Do you have frame weights for the 2013 FC frameset? More specifically the 51cm.
Thanks


----------



## llbr22

Hi Felt (Dave et al)

I'm coming off of a 54cm Ridley Excalibur with virtualy the same geometry as a Felt F-series bike. I LOVE the feel of my current bike and it serves me very well as a crit bike. But there's one differencee between the Ridley and the Felt. The Ridley's head tube is 145mm vs. the 120mm for the 54cm Felt FC.

The issue I have is that I have long legs and a short torso (32 in. inseam, and I stand 5'8". So my seat post is pretty high, but my I already have about 3mm of spacers to make my Ridley work for me (100mm stem). 

If I get the Felt FC, in theory, I'll be looking at either at 5mm of spacing (blech), or a rise stem (super-blechh!). My question is: what is the safe amount of head tube spacers for this bike? or should I be looking at a Z series (which I'm a bit scared of since I'm so used to a more agressive steering bike with shorter wheelbase. 

Thanks!

p.s. I'm willing to do yoga to get my stem down lower (my seat to stem drop is alreay pretty big).... but I'm not getting any younger either ;-)


----------



## enzo24

Jiblet said:


> Apologies if this is a stupid question but I'm looking for a new chain for a Felt Z6 2012.
> Given that I've only had the bike 7 weeks and have only put about 350 miles on it before the stock chain has stretched to the point my tool says its time to change it (0.75), I would rather steer clear of another FSA chain.
> 
> Granted, those 250 miles have been in some pretty wet and muddy conditions, but that seems a bit ridiculous.
> 
> Anyway, am I ok to get any chain so long as its 10 speed? Or is there some further limitation as to what chain I can use?
> 
> Current info:
> Chainset: FSA Omega, compact 50x34
> Chain: FSA Team Issue
> Cassette: Shimano 12-30


Get a new measurement tool (aka a ruler), not a new chain.


----------



## davegregoire

I am looking at the 2013 Z series. Is there a difference in the frames between the z5 & z4 or is it only the components/color?


----------



## rjsdotorg

*Z6 fork and stability at speed*

I have a 2012 61cm Z6, which I understand has 72.5 HTA and 50mm rake. I like the bike a lot, but I do not feel it is nearly as stable as my old tourer at speed. I really do not like going over 45 as it is just too squirrley; on my older, slack HTA frame I can go 55 with some confidence. Since we live in the mountains, we do a lot of descents. No hands over25 is also dangerous. I know some of this is due to the nice, light design (making steering more susceptible to wind and road vibration). I am considering a 43mm rake Felt fork, or less. What do you think? Have others retrofitted?


----------



## EightOhEight

I'm buying a 2013 F1 Frame kit to build up. Which Ultegra Di2 upgrade bits do I need?

Wire (Junction Box to Front Der): ?
Wire (Junction Box to Battery Mount): ?
Wire (Junction Box to Rear Der): ?
Wire (Junction Box to STI): ?

I presume Battery Mount & Junction Box are the internal options?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers

The finished bike is heading for the Etape...


----------



## Fireform

Here is an obscure one. I have a set of Felt TTR2 wheels from, I would guess, 2010. They came with a bike I bought used, and the rear hub bearings need replacing. What bearings do these hubs and the freehub take? I'd like to have them on hand when I pull it apart.

Thanks!


----------



## albert1028

Felt, 

Is it true that for the Z-line, all the frames are the identical? I was looking at the Z3. I was just fitted and the best fitting bike seems to be Z series over the F series, even though I like the race look (I know how vain!! ) I am a long time mtn biker but wanted to get started in road biking more than before. I was wondering if I can get an F series and grow into it or just go with Z series and just change components as I become more flexible and stronger as I learn to enjoy cycling? (FYI, after my fit yesterday, my reach is 355mm and stack is 540mm and it seems that for my age (32 years old) that this shows how inflexible I am currently am. 

Can you also tell me why on the Z3, the brakes are 105 rather than ultegra? 

Thanks!


----------



## jpaschal01

albert1028 said:


> Felt,
> 
> Is it true that for the Z-line, all the frames are the identical? I was looking at the Z3. I was just fitted and the best fitting bike seems to be Z series over the F series, even though I like the race look (I know how vain!! ) I am a long time mtn biker but wanted to get started in road biking more than before. I was wondering if I can get an F series and grow into it or just go with Z series and just change components as I become more flexible and stronger as I learn to enjoy cycling? (FYI, after my fit yesterday, my reach is 355mm and stack is 540mm and it seems that for my age (32 years old) that this shows how inflexible I am currently am.
> 
> Can you also tell me why on the Z3, the brakes are 105 rather than ultegra?
> 
> Thanks!


The Z series is plenty "racy". It has been raced by many. As you get more flexibility, you can remove spacers below the stem and flip the stem downward. It is a great bike.

I'd guess they spec'd 105 brakes to save a little $$ and hit the price point they wanted for the bike. Plenty good brakes with basically no weight penalty.


----------



## albert1028

jpaschal01 said:


> The Z series is plenty "racy". It has been raced by many. As you get more flexibility, you can remove spacers below the stem and flip the stem downward. It is a great bike.
> 
> I'd guess they spec'd 105 brakes to save a little $$ and hit the price point they wanted for the bike. Plenty good brakes with basically no weight penalty.


Thanks for the tips and wisdom. I think stupid ideas put in my head by LBS or others don't help (e.g. Defys are for older folks or that since you are young, you can deal with raiser frames). I think after reading this thread in its entirety and the z series thread, that its best to get a z and will be plenty and can grow with me just by changing the components.


----------



## rjsdotorg

*Bump...*



rjsdotorg said:


> I have a 2012 61cm Z6, which I understand has 72.5 HTA and 50mm rake. I like the bike a lot, but I do not feel it is nearly as stable as my old tourer at speed. I really do not like going over 45 as it is just too squirrley; on my older, slack HTA frame I can go 55 with some confidence. Since we live in the mountains, we do a lot of descents. No hands over25 is also dangerous. I know some of this is due to the nice, light design (making steering more susceptible to wind and road vibration). I am considering a 43mm rake Felt fork, or less. What do you think? Have others retrofitted?


Any takers?


----------



## yorkcb7

SD,

Whats this new Felt FRD that Argos is riding?

York


----------



## deviousalex

jpaschal01 said:


> The Z series is plenty "racy". It has been raced by many. As you get more flexibility, you can remove spacers below the stem and flip the stem downward. It is a great bike.
> 
> I'd guess they spec'd 105 brakes to save a little $$ and hit the price point they wanted for the bike. Plenty good brakes with basically no weight penalty.


I have to disagree. I have a Felt Z85 (2011). I slammed the stem and have had -6, -10, and -17 stems on there. When I get on my race geometry Bianchi the handling through tight corners is a night and day difference. I'm not saying the Z series are bad bikes, I like mine very much. What I'm saying is if you want a race bike go for the F. I think the F would handle better than my Bianchi due to oversized headset bearings.


----------



## Superdave3T

yorkcb7 said:


> SD,
> 
> Whats this new Felt FRD that Argos is riding?
> 
> York


That is a prototype of the new F series FRD project. Like our NINE it boasts incredible strength from the use of a special internal molding process and Textreme's spread tow pre-preg.

It is a developmental bike and will not see production.

-SD


----------



## IRFilter

So I have been looking to get a new road bike. My budget started low, but as I fell in love with the F5 my budget has increased to the F5 price lol. Quick question....1 anyone here have the 2013 and review it for me and also post some pictures of the F5? I know there is a pic thread but the 2013 F5 only has two pictures in that thread. And lastly, is there a difference between the frame from a F5, F4...F1 and FC? Is it the same frame?


----------



## jabbahop

I am super excited because our Team gets to race on Felt this season. 

I am trying to decide between building up the AR or the FC frames. I am more a crit and TT guy and get dropped frequently on the climbs. I have a TT bike so with the exception of one stage race (requires you to ride the TT on a road bike), I won't be using this bike for any TTs. 

I wonder about the how well the AR handles the constant sprinting out of corners vs the FC. Thanks for everyone's advice.


----------



## jmorgan

FC is stiffer and lighter. AR is more aero so if you went off the front a lot then you would get some benefit but in the pack the FC is a better racing bike.


----------



## IRFilter

opinions....get a F5 or an AR4?? looking so spend no more than $3,000. Looked at the F4 but hate white bikes and F3 is bit much money. opinions please.


----------



## jsandevil

Superdave, 

I currently have a Felt Virtue Two mountain bike. Both my wife and I are taking up road biking. I am purchasing a 2012 ZW 5 w 105 for her. I would love a 2012 Z4 with Ultegra Di2, 54cm for me in the Rocky Mountain (Denver) region. Very difficult to find. Do you have any resources or leads? My wife is buying my bike as a late Christmas/wedding present and I'd like to save her a bit by getting the 2012.


----------



## bwbishop

Check Full Cycle in Boulder. That's where I got my Felt and they carry a large selection. Great customer service as well.


----------



## itsacarr

*Argos and AR*

Does anyone on argos ride the AR1?


----------



## jmorgan

They ride a version of the F1 the F1 FRD (not available until '14). The F1 is stiffer and lighter and a better bike for racing. 


F1 FRD
TeXtreme Takes Carbon to the Next Level. | Felt Bicycles | Blog


----------



## jsandevil

SD, Nevermind, I placed an order for a 2013 Z2!


----------



## jpaschal01

Anyone know if the wheels on the F75X can be converted to tubeless? I know the stock tires are tubeless comparable, just can't find any info on the wheels.


----------



## bwbishop

Which shop did you end up ordering through?


----------



## Largo_pq

Question regarding frames on the z series. For 2013, I've read that the frame for the z series has been completely redesigned. How does the new z series frame differ from current frames from other manufacturers?

Specifically, I'm looking to choose between a Roubaix Elite with the Specialized SL2 frame and the Felt Z4 (or perhaps Z3), but both feel great and I can use some expert help on why one is better than the other.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.


----------



## Superdave3T

itsacarr said:


> Does anyone on argos ride the AR1?


No, the Argos team was only provided with F-series and DA frames.

As part of the development crew, they use F1, FC, and various prototypes of the new F FRD. I don't agree that the F can be characterized as a "better race bike." It just suits the team's requirements well enough that one frame works.

Remember that these teams get 100s of frames. If there are 3 guys on a 54cm and they all use the F-series, the number of spares/back-ups can be reduced. Partnering with a World Tour team is a huge expense and spending that money wisely allows a company our size to spread our exposure beyond Men's World Tour teams. We've got a long list of professional athletes aboard Felt including Olympians, a few world champions, XC and Enduro athletes, and even X-games competitors.

-SD

p.s. The Argos team also has some bikes built for cobbles that'll fit some big 28mm tires.
*edit John used 30mm tires this year in PR.


----------



## llbr22

Just maidened my FC yesterday. Amazing handling! I pretty much have my fit dailed in, the short head tube makes for some annoying amount of spacers, but this as about as flexible my 40 yo body gets. 

PR'd an everyday decent on Strata without even trying, plus a few climbs. This thing feels great!


----------



## Sully00

llbr22 said:


> Just maidened my FC yesterday. Amazing handling! I pretty much have my fit dailed in, the short head tube makes for some annoying amount of spacers, but this as about as flexible my 40 yo body gets.
> 
> PR'd an everyday decent on Strata without even trying, plus a few climbs. This thing feels great!


Nice ride, congrats!


----------



## Superdave3T

llbr22 said:


> Just maidened my FC yesterday. Amazing handling! I pretty much have my fit dailed in, the short head tube makes for some annoying amount of spacers, but this as about as flexible my 40 yo body gets.
> 
> PR'd an everyday decent on Strata without even trying, plus a few climbs. This thing feels great!


Glad you enjoyed the ride, the FC sales have skyrocketed since the word got out that the 900g frame and 350g fork deliver on so many fronts. We added the FC to the custom paint program in 2013 for all those looking for a custom look without spending $3500 on an F1.

As for your build, the fork needs to be cut down, the compression device is designed to support the crush-load of the stem but with that many spacers above the stem it cannot work as designed. Please take the steerer tube length down below 100mm of exposure above the compression ring of the headset.

-SD


----------



## llbr22

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Glad you enjoyed the ride, the FC sales have skyrocketed since the word got out that the 900g frame and 350g fork deliver on so many fronts. We added the FC to the custom paint program in 2013 for all those looking for a custom look without spending $3500 on an F1.
> 
> As for your build, the fork needs to be cut down, the compression device is designed to support the crush-load of the stem but with that many spacers above the stem it cannot work as designed. Please take the steerer tube length down below 100mm of exposure above the compression ring of the headset.
> 
> -SD


Thanks! I left some stem on top just in case, but didn't realize the compression thingy needed to be within the actual stem. Not sure if I understand the "below 100mm of exposure..." is 100mm the total amount of steerer you should not exceed above the headset? 

I figured I would cut it to 5mm above my current stem location with a small spacer (or maybe just flush). My spacers under the stem total just under 3mm, is that still ok? 

Thanks!!


----------



## Superdave3T

llbr22 said:


> Thanks! I left some stem on top just in case, but didn't realize the compression thingy needed to be within the actual stem. Not sure if I understand the "below 100mm of exposure..." is 100mm the total amount of steerer you should not exceed above the headset?
> 
> I figured I would cut it to 5mm above my current stem location with a small spacer (or maybe just flush). My spacers under the stem total just under 3mm, is that still ok?
> 
> Thanks!!


100mm of unsupported steerer tube above the compression ring of the headset. This is including the conical washer included with the headset that should be 15mm on the stock headset. Stem clamps are usually 40-50mm. 3mm of spacers below the stem should be fine, 5mm above should also allow the compression device to do its job.

-SD


----------



## llbr22

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 100mm of unsupported steerer tube above the compression ring of the headset. This is including the conical washer included with the headset that should be 15mm on the stock headset. Stem clamps are usually 40-50mm. 3mm of spacers below the stem should be fine, 5mm above should also allow the compression device to do its job.
> 
> -SD


Excellent. Thanks!!

btw, I know I haven't really looked at new bikes for almost 4 years, but man they've come a long way. Such a great feel! Even little details like the seatpost clamp, cable routing, and ft. derailer mount on this thing is brilliant.


----------



## ulu

I'm having trouble getting the right sized screwdriver to adjust the rear derailleur alignment screws on my Felt Z85 (2012 model). Is there a particular tool for this?


----------



## commfire

What is Argos Shimano running for BB30 to Shimano adapters on their F1's? I am using a wheels manufacturing set and have horrible creaking issues. 
Any suggestions on the best BB system for Shimano users. 
I am starting to think I need to break down and get a BB30 crankset.


----------



## Superdave3T

We bond in a dedicated threaded sleeve in the frames of our Shimano sponsored athletes. They use Dura-Ace BB-9000 bottom brackets.

Do you have a carbon BB30 shell or aluminum?

-SD


----------



## commfire

Thanks for the response! I have a 2013 F1 and a 2012 f1x both with a carbon bb. 
So will a bb30 crank be my best bet ie rotor? Or have you had good success with other adapters?


----------



## llbr22

commfire said:


> Thanks for the response! I have a 2013 F1 and a 2012 f1x both with a carbon bb.
> So will a bb30 crank be my best bet ie rotor? Or have you had good success with other adapters?


I'm using an FSA bottom bracket/adapter with my old Sram force cranks. Works really well so far.


----------



## Mr.Pie

Thinking of picking up a felt AR2 frame off a fellow cyclist/friend in my tri club.
Coach suggested me to go for a Cannodale Super6 or a Felt F series frame instead....
what would you suggest? Primary racing is in triathlon with some hills depending on the course.

I'm also planning to use my old shimano 105 5700 components if I do get the AR2 frame.
Can I use the Shimano 5700 BB on the 2012 AR2 frame?

thanks


----------



## bwbishop

If you are doing Draft illegal tri's, go with the AR. You'll benefit from the aero frame.


----------



## jabbahop

does it matter what bottle & cage I choose for my new Felt AR in terms of aerodynamics?


----------



## Gatorfreak

albert1028 said:


> Is it true that for the Z-line, all the frames are the identical?


Pretty sure the Z1 is different. As for Z2,3,4,5... the descriptions seem to be the same. Comparing the Z4 and Z5, everything seems to be the same except shifters and derailleurs yet the Z5 is 1.25 lbs heavier. So maybe the frames are different after all? I can't imagine Tiagra is that much heavier than 105.


----------



## bwbishop

Z5 to Z2 are the exact same frame. The Z1 has the same stiffness as the rest but is lighter. The only difference between the 2-5 are component.


----------



## dbf73

I recently saw a picture (perhaps on Felt's Twitter feed) of a bike with red/black/white speckled bar tape. Anyone know who makes that tape?


----------



## itsacarr

*Felt Bayonet3 Fixed stem length question*

I figured this might be a good place to ask this given that maybe others are interested in the answer as well.

What fixed stem is is closest or equal to the Bayonet 3 top piece with the shortest attachment?

Not sure how to quantify how long and high the B3 stem is with that attachment to see which fixed top piece is applicable.


----------



## itsacarr

I figured this might be a good place to ask this given that maybe others are interested in the answer as well.

What fixed stem is is closest or equal to the Bayonet 3 top piece with the shortest attachment?

Not sure how to quantify how long and high the B3 stem is with that attachment to see which fixed top piece is applicable.


----------



## Midgetman

I hope this hasn't been ask before as "B2" is too short a string for the forum's search:

Could you tell me the stack and reach of the 61cm 2013 B2 frame?

Thanks!


----------



## TDI Hoo

TDI Hoo said:


> Super Dave,
> 
> I am asking for your opinion, given your expertise in product planning, development, and racing. I bought my Z6 in April, and I have ridden over 1500 miles thus far. Just the most comfortable bike for me ever. I had a great time with it at Wrightsville Beach, NC, where I rode over 200 miles on my week's vacation.
> 
> The original Zaffiro Slick tire in the rear is now looking square. Advice from the local bike shop is to replace just the rear, and then when that second tire is worn, replace both, sort of the 1--2 replacement pattern, or something like that. They don't recommend rotating tires.
> 
> But I also would like to know if it is worth putting Rubino Pro or Rubino Pro Slicks in back (or replacing both.) My average speed is now 16.5-17.5 mph over 90 to 120 minutes with elevation gains of 400-500 feet, so relatively flat, rolling farm roads in Virginia. I have enjoyed the Zaffiro Slicks during training.
> 
> 1. Is it OK to replace rear tire only with the same (Zaffiro) or different (Rubino) tire?
> 2. Will an upgrade to Rubinos be noticeable in terms of ride quality/speed?
> 3. Slick or non slick? I do plan to ride a bit more in the rain. My experience is that the Zaffiro Slicks are reasonable in light rain, but I have been slowing down and being careful with them.
> 
> Thanks! Still trying to convince my wife to get a ZW. She's only 5'0" and 92 lbs.


Today I replaced my Z6 Zaffiro Slicks with Rubino Pro Slick II tires. The Rubino II Pro Slicks are 120 TPI, and newer Rubino Pro Slick IIIs are now 150 TPI. I got the IIs on sale with free shipping and a discount. The Zaffiro Slicks are 26 TPI. 

First I rode a 5 mile loop on the old tires. Then I switched out the rear tire to the Rubino Pro Slick and left the Zaffiro on the front and rode the same 5 miles. Much more confortable, less harsh. Did the next 10 miles after changing out the front tire so now fully Rubino Pro Slick II. On the Z6 this change is noticeably more comfortable and supple, even if I cannot tell the difference in speed. Worth it if you find the Rubinos on sale, even the older model. My Zaffiro in rear was fully squared off, and the front tire had sidewall cracks after a year and nearly 2000 miles without any punctures. I did keep the Kenda tubes in place. They are 700x23 tubes in the 700x25 tires. Hope this helps anyone who is thinking about an upgrade. The Rubinos are more "supple" and reduce vibrations to the hands and tush. Will report back after a few months. I ride on suburban and rural farm roads that are not especially well paved.


----------



## TightLines

Took the chain off my 2012 Z85 today and lost the "drive link connector". Any help on where I can buy a replacement or a similar product that will fit my chain? Thanks


----------



## samuraistu

*Felt F4 carbon bubbling*

I have a 2012 Felt F4 which is a fantastic bike but recently while cleaning I discovered some white spots scattered all over the frame with the largest concentration being on the drive side chain stay. It's heart breaking to find these spots as one of best points of this frame was the beautiful matte carbon finish. 

What I would like to know is this normal wear & tear after only 10 months?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Stu

View attachment 277035


----------



## YZ 343

Will Felt have booth at the Sea Otter? Demo's?


----------



## Michael Thomas Smith

Hello!

I just bought a 2013 Felt Z95, and I love it! I have the 25s that came with the bike on there right now, but I want to purchase a set of wider, knobbier tires as well. What's the widest tire that I can put on the bike?

Thanks,

Michael


----------



## mechmech

Superdave, 

On my 2012 F6 there are two screws under the left chainstay about 3 inches away from the bottom bracket? What are they for? They almost look like you could attach somekind of cyclocomputer/cadence/speed sensor there or something?


----------



## dbf73

mechmech said:


> On my 2012 F6 there are two screws under the left chainstay about 3 inches away from the bottom bracket? What are they for? They almost look like you could attach somekind of cyclocomputer/cadence/speed sensor there or something?


 likely to attach the Di2 battery


----------



## Superdave3T

mechmech said:


> Superdave,
> 
> On my 2012 F6 there are two screws under the left chainstay about 3 inches away from the bottom bracket? What are they for? They almost look like you could attach somekind of cyclocomputer/cadence/speed sensor there or something?


Those are for a Shimano short-mount Di2 battery holder or Campy EPS P.U.
-SD


----------



## srenkin

*Replacement for stock 2011 Felt F-series saddle?*

Hi Superdave,

I'd like your advice; I need to update my 2011 F4 with a new saddle. I like the shape/padding of the stock Felt Superlite saddle that came with the bike. Not too round, not too flat. Does the current saddle (Prologo Nago Evo) has a similar shape or should I look elsewhere? 

I tried a Scratch Pro but it was too round.

Thanks - Sam


----------



## FeltF75rider

I am looking at the FC frame set. Would everything from my 2011 F75 move over to this frame?


----------



## Superdave3T

FeltF75rider said:


> I am looking at the FC frame set. Would everything from my 2011 F75 move over to this frame?


Not entirely. You'd need a BB adapter, a 30mm brake nut for the front brake caliper, and a new braze-on front derailleur. I'd recommend a new chain and a set of cables including an inline barrel adjuster for the front derailleur, too.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

arctic biker said:


> hello Dave
> How does Felt see the future of frame materials, is carbon the holy grail or will we see
> any serious development in aluframes? Or are factories manufacturing aluminium tubes doing anything anymore? And yes, I drive alufelt


On the technology side carbon will continue to deliver what consumers seem to be asking for, lighter, stiffer and more aerodynamic frames. The FRD projects Felt is introducing and bikes like Cervelo's RCA showcase the future here.

Aluminum is a good material but metals seem to be fading in terms of development as use in bicycles. 

I see more glass-fiber blends making headway in the race for the bottom in terms of price on "carbon" bikes. The day is coming that you'll pick up a non-metal framed bike for ~$999 USD with adequate stiffness and similar weight to aluminum.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

YZ 343 said:


> Will Felt have booth at the Sea Otter? Demo's?


Yes, we'll have a booth at Sea Otter. No demo bikes will be there as far as I know although we are having demo's in NorCal around the Sea Otter dates. Check our FB page for a Demo date listing.

Some new 2014 stuff might make the trip though...

-SD


----------



## bwbishop

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, we'll have a booth at Sea Otter. No demo bikes will be there as far as I know although we are having demo's in NorCal around the Sea Otter dates. Check our FB page for a Demo date listing.
> 
> Some new 2014 stuff might make the trip though...
> 
> -SD


More importantly, will SuperdaveFelt be there to meet in person?


----------



## Superdave3T

bwbishop said:


> More importantly, will SuperdaveFelt be there to meet in person?


No, I'll be in China.


----------



## Gharp23

What is the weight on the 2013 Z4? On the site it shows 16.93lbs which doesn't seem right.. and it shows the Z3 as 17.35lbs. Are these suppose to be reversed? Seems like a typo to me. Just wanted to point that out.


----------



## Don4

srenkin said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> I'd like your advice; I need to update my 2011 F4 with a new saddle. I like the shape/padding of the stock Felt Superlite saddle that came with the bike. Not too round, not too flat. Does the current saddle (Prologo Nago Evo) has a similar shape or should I look elsewhere?
> 
> I tried a Scratch Pro but it was too round.
> 
> Thanks - Sam


Sam --

If you really like your original saddle, and just want to refresh it, http://www.recoveredsaddle.com/ does really nice work. My lovely wife really likes the saddle that came on her 2010 Felt Z2, but after 2 years and 8000 miles, it looks a little worse for wear, so we are going to get hers recovered.

-- Don4


----------



## Superdave3T

rmaurer said:


> Any answers on this? Could I slightly dremel out the existing hole? The difference is only a millimeter or two.



I wouldn't cut the hole any larger, the reinforcement under the BB shell is likely smaller than the hole size required. Try installing the battery, FD, and RD wire and dropping the junction B into the downtube from the head tube, not through the hole in the BB. This will require that you pre-route the chainstay and F/D holes with a derailleur or brake cable and shrink wrap the head of the wire to the EW50 wire. This gives you something to pull through the frame and out the exit port. Some of the early prototype frames and pre-Di2 designed bikes have been set up like this. It takes more time but prevents the guesswork of drilling into your carbon frame.

Good luck,
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

albert1028 said:


> Felt,
> 
> Is it true that for the Z-line, all the frames are the identical? I was looking at the Z3. I was just fitted and the best fitting bike seems to be Z series over the F series, even though I like the race look (I know how vain!! ) I am a long time mtn biker but wanted to get started in road biking more than before. I was wondering if I can get an F series and grow into it or just go with Z series and just change components as I become more flexible and stronger as I learn to enjoy cycling? (FYI, after my fit yesterday, my reach is 355mm and stack is 540mm and it seems that for my age (32 years old) that this shows how inflexible I am currently am.
> 
> Can you also tell me why on the Z3, the brakes are 105 rather than ultegra?
> 
> Thanks!


The UHC Performance frames are using on the Z3, Z4, Z5 and Z6. All these frames use the same carbon fiber blend, lay-up, and design and thus are the same stiffness and about the same weight. The Z6 frame is a couple grams lighter because it uses a threaded BB insert for a 68mm threaded BB rather than the oversize CNC machined BB30 inserts used on the Z1 EPS, Z2, Z3, Z4, and Z5.

I'm not sure what you mean by "race look" Are you referring to the frame itself or the component selection? The Z series is by far the bigger seller and more universally fitting frame option. The F series is a specific tool whereas the Z is suited to a variety of riders and rider needs. We use the 105 brake calipers on some models to maintain the braking performance (the 105 brake pads are identical to the Dura-Ace brake pads) while keeping the cost in check. Upgrades like the BB30 crankset and Prologo saddle on the Z3 offer greater performance benefit than driving up costs with a different cosmetic finish on the calipers.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

srenkin said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> I'd like your advice; I need to update my 2011 F4 with a new saddle. I like the shape/padding of the stock Felt Superlite saddle that came with the bike. Not too round, not too flat. Does the current saddle (Prologo Nago Evo) has a similar shape or should I look elsewhere?
> 
> I tried a Scratch Pro but it was too round.
> 
> Thanks - Sam



Sam,

Yes, I'd recommend the Nago series of saddles. They have a few options within the Nago range and some of the MTB designs are well suited for the road and offer a bit more rugged construction and slightly lower density or increased padding.

-SD


----------



## GreenD

Any plans on a Z-series disc for 2014?


----------



## Superdave3T

GreenD said:


> Any plans on a Z-series disc for 2014?


Good question. 

Do you think consumers will be attracted to disc brakes on a Z bike despite the ~700g weight penalty?

What would a Z-disc deliver than a bike like the F1x or F3x miss from the consumer's perspective?

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Gharp23 said:


> What is the weight on the 2013 Z4? On the site it shows 16.93lbs which doesn't seem right.. and it shows the Z3 as 17.35lbs. Are these suppose to be reversed? Seems like a typo to me. Just wanted to point that out.


It is possible that the weights from one of the other Z3 models was loaded on the USA website. I'll triple check. It is also possible that the aftermarket wheelset is considerably heavier than the light hubs, quick releases, butted spokes, aluminum nipples and ~490g Mavic rims.

IIRC, the Z2 with SRAM Red ended up lighter than the Z1 with Records EPS despite the lighter Z1 UHC Ultimate + NANO carbon frameset.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

mrbjor said:


> does anyone know if there some difference between ar1 2012 framset and 2013 ar1 frameset? I can not see any changes on the 2013 spec of the ar1.


No, the framesets are unchanged although the finish of the 2013 frame shaves about 60g off the complete package.
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

itsacarr said:


> I figured this might be a good place to ask this given that maybe others are interested in the answer as well.
> 
> What fixed stem is is closest or equal to the Bayonet 3 top piece with the shortest attachment?
> 
> Not sure how to quantify how long and high the B3 stem is with that attachment to see which fixed top piece is applicable.


It would depend on the angle in which the shortest extension is positioned on the top crown.

The shortest fixed position stem has a center of head tube to handlebar bore center distance of 70mm. It is available with 30mm of height above the top tube or 60mm.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

dbf73 said:


> I recently saw a picture (perhaps on Felt's Twitter feed) of a bike with red/black/white speckled bar tape. Anyone know who makes that tape?


Cinelli has tape that matches that description as does Silva.
Every Imaginable Handlebar Tape at Yellow Jersey

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Fireform said:


> Here is an obscure one. I have a set of Felt TTR2 wheels from, I would guess, 2010. They came with a bike I bought used, and the rear hub bearings need replacing. What bearings do these hubs and the freehub take? I'd like to have them on hand when I pull it apart.
> 
> Thanks!


2010? I'm Fairly certain all the bearings are the same but I can't find the exact number from the old BOM. They are either 6903 or 6802. I'll see if I can locate another source that lists this info. We no longer use that exact hub design as we've moved to a much larger axle.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Midgetman said:


> I hope this hasn't been ask before as "B2" is too short a string for the forum's search:
> 
> Could you tell me the stack and reach of the 61cm 2013 B2 frame?
> 
> Thanks!


Check here:
B Series - Felt Bicycles

The listed dimensions for a 61cm are:

STACK: 606mm
REACH: 443mm


----------



## Superdave3T

deviousalex said:


> I have to disagree. I have a Felt Z85 (2011). I slammed the stem and have had -6, -10, and -17 stems on there. When I get on my race geometry Bianchi the handling through tight corners is a night and day difference. I'm not saying the Z series are bad bikes, I like mine very much. What I'm saying is if you want a race bike go for the F. I think the F would handle better than my Bianchi due to oversized headset bearings.


The Z has since been upgraded with the oversized lower 1.5" bearing and ControlTaper fork but the handling question really comes down to preference. For a few of our former pro riders, they tackled everything from NRC crits to the Tour de France on their Z bikes. With races like Milan San Remo and nearly 300km of racing the Z has the compliance sought after by many.

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3063/2695748495_ebc3218358_m.jpg
https://www.bestbuy.ca/multimedia/Products/500x500/M21/M2175/M2175320.jpg
https://velocitynation.com/files/old/pictures/image/friedman02.jpg
https://2009.feltracing.com/images/download/large/WATSON_00001656-029.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3281/2640092588_e90113ffc1.jpg
https://bicycling.com/blogs/thisjustin/files/2009/04/thisjustin_04_27_08_21.jpg
https://livinghealthe.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Will_Racing.jpg
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2286/2352678172_2ba8bd64c7.jpg

There's an Olympic gold medal performance aboard a Z as well as a handful of our Exergy team riders on them currently.

The reason that we make 4 different geometries on our road models is we know one size, one geometry, and one engineering focal point won't suit everyone.

I recommend the Z more than any other series however because it remains the most versatile. Surely if you can win an Olympic medal in triathlon, race a 90 minute pro criterium, slog 300km in Milan San Remo, climb 3000km all over France, and be as beloved as our Z85 is to 10,000s of our consumers we've done something right.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Mr.Pie said:


> Thinking of picking up a felt AR2 frame off a fellow cyclist/friend in my tri club.
> Coach suggested me to go for a Cannodale Super6 or a Felt F series frame instead....
> what would you suggest? Primary racing is in triathlon with some hills depending on the course.
> 
> I'm also planning to use my old shimano 105 5700 components if I do get the AR2 frame.
> Can I use the Shimano 5700 BB on the 2012 AR2 frame?
> 
> thanks


If your primary use is triathlon, I'd recommend the AR for sure.

The Shimano 5700 BB will thread right into your AR2 frameset.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

jabbahop said:


> does it matter what bottle & cage I choose for my new Felt AR in terms of aerodynamics?


Yes.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

deviousalex said:


> Hi Dave,
> Do you have frame weights for the 2013 FC frameset? More specifically the 51cm.
> Thanks


I have a raw 51cm frame in our office. It doesn't have the decals + clear coat but it was 886g. I'm guessing the C&G adds about 40g.

-SD


----------



## Mdelrossi

Looking to move from a Trek Domane 2.0 (aluminum) to a 2013 Felt Z5.
I rode a 2011 Z5 and it felt really nice, absorbed more of the road buzz, and handled a bit smoother. 
I havent had a chance to ride a 2013. What else should I expect?

thanks,
mdr


----------



## FeltF75rider

I believe the frame just had a make over and from what I understand is way better than the 2011. The quality of the ride is far better. I am sure SuperdaveFelt will chime in and give a better explanation. Felt makes a great bike and I am hoping to get an FC soon.


----------



## igotyofire

Does anyone know why Ji Cheng's top tube slops down? Almost looks like he rides a Z series based bike while the rest of the team are riding F series.... Dave? I'm a bike noob, someone please enlighten me. Maybe he just has a really small frame size?


----------



## Superdave3T

igotyofire said:


> Does anyone know why Ji Cheng's top tube slops down? Almost looks like he rides a Z series based bike while the rest of the team are riding F series.... Dave? I'm a bike noob, someone please enlighten me. Maybe he just has a really small frame size?


All the F-series frames slope a little bit. We slope the top tube about 4cm on the smallest frame sizes and ~15mm on the largest. Ji Cheng's bike uses stock F-series frame geo. He's got a super slammed -17 degree stem to go with what many claim to be a "too-low" head tube also. He's a smaller rider and in the photo he's got the front wheel lifted up quite a bit. Check the geometry page on our website for the dimensions and do a search for Emma Snowsill's ITU set up on her 48cm F1. That bike is tiny!

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

*Z series*

Here is a little bit about the new tech that goes into the Z bikes since 2013:

Felt Road Bicycles - New For 2013 - YouTube

-SD


----------



## Mdelrossi

Hi, 
I just picked up my Z5, great looking bike and for the quick spin I took it felt great. 
I've got a few adjustments to make and had a question regarding the VA stem. 
Should I have gotten additional shims?
The one I have is a +\- 16, 8

The 8 might be perfect but I'd like to try othe configurations. 
Thanks,

Mdr

Ps I'll post pics later.


----------



## foureyedlameo

I'm excitedly ordering an FC frameset and rather than spending 3 days searching through this thread, I thought I'd ask. Does the frameset come with a bottom bracket and/or headset? And, when I transfer my components from my now cracked Cronus, will my wheelset with 25c's fit on the FC? They're wide rims, the new Bontrager RXL tubeless. I saw a post somewhere else where someone mentioned he was getting rubbing on his chainstays with 25c's.

Thanks a lot,

Bill


----------



## kojtl1000

I just found out that all 2013 F1's are sold out in size 58 for the year. I was just wondering when the 2014 models of the F1 will be available? And will there be any changes to the frame compared to the 2013 model?

Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

kojtl1000 said:


> I just found out that all 2013 F1's are sold out in size 58 for the year. I was just wondering when the 2014 models of the F1 will be available? And will there be any changes to the frame compared to the 2013 model?
> 
> Thanks.


2013 F1 Custom Paint framesets are still available. The 2014 F-series frame design will continue to use the same shape that yields the highest Stiffness-to-weight of any production bicycle available. For a sneak peek at some of the new technology and materials used in the F-series molds, take a look at the Argos boys at the Giro and our FB and web features on our FRD development and use of new TexTreme carbon fiber.

-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

Is there really a correct direction for the front hub to face? This months's Bicycling Magazine says the logo on the font hub should be right side up when you read it while riding (sitting on the saddle.) At the least, they said it should be the same direction as the rear hub. Here is my front hub: 
 

It reads right side up from the front and upside down from riding. Here is the rear hub:



It reads right side up from the saddle or from viewing from behind.

My question is: should I turn the front hub around? Will I ride 2 mph faster? 

Thanks! Just passed my 1 year anniversary on my 2012 Z6 and I am in a lot better shape this spring compared to last year. Thanks Felt and SuperDave!


----------



## jpaschal01

TDI Hoo said:


> Is there really a correct direction for the front hub to face? This months's Bicycling Magazine says the logo on the font hub should be right side up when you read it while riding (sitting on the saddle.) At the least, they said it should be the same direction as the rear hub. Here is my front hub:
> 
> 
> It reads right side up from the front and upside down from riding. Here is the rear hub:
> 
> 
> 
> It reads right side up from the saddle or from viewing from behind.
> 
> My question is: should I turn the front hub around? Will I ride 2 mph faster?
> 
> Thanks! Just passed my 1 year anniversary on my 2012 Z6 and I am in a lot better shape this spring compared to last year. Thanks Felt and SuperDave!


Yes, you should turn your front wheel around. It is on backwards. Will you ride faster...no.


----------



## igotyofire

jpaschal01 said:


> Yes, you should turn your front wheel around. It is on backwards. Will you ride faster...no.


why does it matter? its front hub, it rides freely......


----------



## Winters

igotyofire said:


> why does it matter? its front hub, it rides freely......


.
If the logos and the valve holes/spokes line up "right" , then that's a sign that the wheelmaker took the extra time to do that for showing that the wheel maker knew what he/she was doing; and you can be sure that the wheel is laced, stress relieved, tensioned, and trued just right.
.
Also indicates that the correct spoke length was calculated and used so that the spoke-to-nipple contact is maximized with no risk of the spoke being too long and then causing a flat .... 
.
i.e. it's just a sign of quality and pride in worksmanship.


----------



## Don4

igotyofire said:


> why does it matter? its front hub, it rides freely......


Why, style points, of course!


----------



## TDI Hoo

igotyofire said:


> why does it matter? its front hub, it rides freely......


I will remove the skewer and flip the wheel around and see if I ride 2 mph faster. :wink5: This is how it came from my LBS, with the Felt logos facing opposite directions.

I do need style points if there is no change in my average or top speed. :smilewinkgrin:

And by the way, my rear wheel has not squeaked in more than 1700 miles since I greased the plastic cap on the hub (on the skewer side in my picture above) with high temp brake grease. Other chain lubes and bike lubricants did not stop the noise. Your mileage may vary.

Edit: Flipped the wheel and skewer. Indeed, 1 mph avg speed faster!!


----------



## rjsdotorg

I have a 2012 61cm Z6 with the stock 50mm rake fork, and am considering swapping the fork for a model with 40 or 35mm of rake to smooth out the handling at speed. Any opinion?


----------



## Superdave3T

rjsdotorg said:


> I have a 2012 61cm Z6 with the stock 50mm rake fork, and am considering swapping the fork for a model with 40 or 35mm of rake to smooth out the handling at speed. Any opinion?


If by “smooth out” you wish to change the trail and create a heavier, less agile front end, then reducing the fork offset 10-15mm should do the trick. Some Z-series models came with 45mm offset forks in the 61cm size to do exactly what you are looking for but most of our pro rider's feedback continues to point us back to the trail and handling the 50mm offset fork yields.

I know a few of the Exergy girls' F-series bikes had inadvertently swapped the 50mm forks on the 51cm size during the assembly process with the 43mm offset used on the larger F bikes with poor results.

In my opinion the first step to smooth handling is proper weight bias (and size) whilst negotiating said maneuvers.

-SD


----------



## rjsdotorg

Yes, I meant slower/less agile; my tourer has a slack HTA with lots of trail, needing noticeable counter-steer, and I feel relatively comfortable at 50+mph. In comparison, the Z6 steering is quite fast (great for some pros I'm sure), but it's windy and bumpy up here in the San Diego mountains where we live (middle of the Mount Laguna Challenge course), and I'd prefer less twitchy downhilling. I feel white knuckled on straight roads at 40 or so.

(I also swapped the cluster to a 12-32 and MTB derailleur to save my old knees - our local roads are 3%-21%.)

BTW, someone had suggested swapping out tires to a different profile; I'm rolling on Conti Attack Grand Prix 22 in front, and Conti Force Grand Prix 23 rear on Mavic Aksium Race wheels.


----------



## statix

Can anyone explain what justifies the price gap between the Z2 and the Z3? I realize the Z2 has the Ultegra Di2 electronic shifting as well as some other minor upgrades but the MSRP difference is almost $3000. I mean, you can get the Ultegra Di2 kit for about $1300-$1400. Considering the Z3 is fully upgradeable to this system I would have to believe there is more to the differences between these bikes that I am unaware of.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Mdelrossi

Different carbon.


----------



## Superdave3T

statix said:


> Can anyone explain what justifies the price gap between the Z2 and the Z3? I realize the Z2 has the Ultegra Di2 electronic shifting as well as some other minor upgrades but the MSRP difference is almost $3000. I mean, you can get the Ultegra Di2 kit for about $1300-$1400. Considering the Z3 is fully upgradeable to this system I would have to believe there is more to the differences between these bikes that I am unaware of.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Frame,
Fork,
Bar,
Stem,
Post,
Saddle,
Tubes,
Tires,
Wheels,
Brakes,
Crankset,
BB,
Cables,
Cosmetic finish,

Also the sales volume is ~10:1.

Look at the complete technical specification listed on the website, compare the cost of every part and you'll get an idea of the price difference.


----------



## Mdelrossi

What brakes are on the 2013 Z5 in the US?


----------



## statix

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Frame,
> Fork,
> Bar,
> Stem,
> Post,
> Saddle,
> Tubes,
> Tires,
> Wheels,
> Brakes,
> Crankset,
> BB,
> Cables,
> Cosmetic finish,
> 
> Also the sales volume is ~10:1.
> 
> Look at the complete technical specification listed on the website, compare the cost of every part and you'll get an idea of the price difference.


Thanks Dave, I went with a Z2. I am excited to get riding on it!


----------



## Risk3233

I've been experiencing "chain suck" on my 2013 F5. I have chewed up the original metal plate near the bottom bracket. I have already ordered two as backup.

Has this been a documented problem with the F series frame.

My crank is the stock BB30 FSA Gossamer and the original rings and chain with about 700 miles on the odo.

Is this a problem or do I just suck at shifting. BTW I've been road riding since the mid-80s and this bike has been the most problematic. My two other rides don't give me this problem. BTW my two other bikes are on Shimano and not SRAM.


----------



## Don4

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Frame,
> Fork,
> Bar,
> Stem,
> Post,
> Saddle,
> Tubes,
> Tires,
> Wheels,
> Brakes,
> Crankset,
> BB,
> Cables,
> Cosmetic finish,
> 
> Also the sales volume is ~10:1.
> 
> Look at the complete technical specification listed on the website, compare the cost of every part and you'll get an idea of the price difference.


Even the _tubes_ are different? Don't need to know the specifics...but, boy, that's specific!


----------



## TonyGreg

I've had a good look through the thread and note that you've said DI2 integration is common across most models but that all models can run DI2 and mechanical. Can you tell me what parts I'd need to convert an AR0 to run a mechanical groupset?

Thanks
Tony


----------



## jaws2

I have a 2010 B2 Frame and recently upgraded it to Di2. The LBS that installed the groupset ran the derailleur wire under the downtube using the tape Shimano provides for external routing. When I asked why I really didn't feel they give a good reason why this can't be run internally using the existing internal routing tubes. The hole seems a bit tight but it seems that it could be bored out to accomodate the electronic cable.

I'm hoping there is a relatively simple solution to this?  I'm in San Jose, CA area.

Many thanks in advance, it's awesome to have Felt on this forum.


----------



## Superdave3T

jaws2 said:


> I have a 2010 B2 Frame and recently upgraded it to Di2. The LBS that installed the groupset ran the derailleur wire under the downtube using the tape Shimano provides for external routing. When I asked why I really didn't feel they give a good reason why this can't be run internally using the existing internal routing tubes. The hole seems a bit tight but it seems that it could be bored out to accomodate the electronic cable.
> 
> I'm hoping there is a relatively simple solution to this?  I'm in San Jose, CA area.
> 
> Many thanks in advance, it's awesome to have Felt on this forum.


We used that same frame mold to create the 2011 B10 with Di2 and 2012 B2 with Di2. The frame can fit the wires inside but the cable guides used on your bike were intended for mechanical wires and the holes are indeed too small for the e-tube Di2 system. Of course I've seen a few people modify their frames to run the wires inside but you have to be willing to risk the integrity of your frame.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Tony,

An AR0 simply needs to replace the electronic wires with mechanical cable housing. Like our latest TT/Tri bikes, you simply run housing from shifter to the derailleur.

By the way, that's an awesome bike! I think it is among the first to ever do that stealth paint that has become so popular today.


Regards,
-SD


----------



## igotyofire

Hey Dave, Do you think by chance the Felt warehouse has any 2012 Emerald Green ZW95s left? in petite or small? Or are dealers only able to get ahold of 2013 bikes by now? I don't think my buddy will find one in stock anywhere.


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

Hi all,
Hoping I can get some assistance here - I have a Felt F4 that I swapped out the double for a compact on and I'm at the point of changing the chain. I am also toying with changing the rear cassette, and am concerned that the short cage rear Ultegra derailleur might not be able to cope.
My options are an Ultegra 6600 12-27 cassette or a 105 11-28 cassette.

All help and advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Damian


----------



## Superdave3T

wotnoshoeseh said:


> Hi all,
> Hoping I can get some assistance here - I have a Felt F4 that I swapped out the double for a compact on and I'm at the point of changing the chain. I am also toying with changing the rear cassette, and am concerned that the short cage rear Ultegra derailleur might not be able to cope.
> My options are an Ultegra 6600 12-27 cassette or a 105 11-28 cassette.
> 
> All help and advice greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Damian


Damian,

Thanks for your business. Dialing in our bikes to make them your own is a fun part of the process, eh?

The compatibility will depend on the model year. For sure the 12-27t cassette will function and it will provide a nice wide range of gearing for a variety of terrain and speed. The 11-28t has the largest range that will work with the older generations of Ultegra R/D. The gaps between each gear get a bit large in the middle of the cassette and you'll be right at capacity on the total gear so the chain length and B-tension screw will need to be precise.

I run a 12-27t on the bike I have set up with "climbing" gears because I've found I use the 15, 16, 17, 18t cogs on every ride and really only look for the 11t and the 28t cogs for the most extreme settings which represent maybe 1-2% of the riding I do. In those cases, I just coast in the 12t or struggle a bit with a few fewer RPM on the steep grades.

If you have a RD6700 you can use the 28t without concern over the guide pulley crashing into the 28t cog when in the big chainring.

-SD


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

Thanks Dave - I have a 2012 frame with 2011 running gear - the frame was a crash replacement from Felt after a chain suck episode. There was no FC frames available in the correct size so Felt sent a 2012 model to the LBS, so that we could use the frame.
The silver and orange is nicer in my view than the FC frame.


----------



## engineer1

Hi Dave, the carbon care page isn't working on your site. Just letting you know


----------



## jurcsi

Hi Dave,
I have a 2011 F5 and today unfortunately dropped my chain behind the small chain-ring. The frame is more-or-less ok (just some small damage on the surface) but the aluminium patch behind the chainset is completely destroyed. The chain tore it off so the chain stuck so heavily it could only be removed be loosening the whole crank.
Do you have any idea how I could replace that patch? I tried to find aluminium patches on the internet, but no success so far.
I leave in Hungary (Europe  ).
thanks,
Anrdrás


----------



## Superdave3T

jurcsi said:


> Hi Dave,
> I have a 2011 F5 and today unfortunately dropped my chain behind the small chain-ring. The frame is more-or-less ok (just some small damage on the surface) but the aluminium patch behind the chainset is completely destroyed. The chain tore it off so the chain stuck so heavily it could only be removed be loosening the whole crank.
> Do you have any idea how I could replace that patch? I tried to find aluminium patches on the internet, but no success so far.
> I leave in Hungary (Europe  ).
> thanks,
> Anrdrás


The chainstay protector plate can be ordered from your local Felt dealer or you can try contacting our customer service center at [email protected]. You can mention to Tim that I directed you to him.

Regards,
-SD


----------



## Lachapr

Hi SD-

Quick question. I have a 2011 F5 Garmin Ed. I am using the Mavic CXP-22s as my trainer wheels. Will the CXP-22s support the new 11spd Ultegra cassette (when it comes out) w/ a new free hub? Since the CXP-22s have the Felt OEM hubs - I don't know. Please advise. Thanks for your help as always.

Ryan


----------



## Superdave3T

Lachapr said:


> Hi SD-
> 
> Quick question. I have a 2011 F5 Garmin Ed. I am using the Mavic CXP-22s as my trainer wheels. Will the CXP-22s support the new 11spd Ultegra cassette (when it comes out) w/ a new free hub? Since the CXP-22s have the Felt OEM hubs - I don't know. Please advise. Thanks for your help as always.
> 
> Ryan



Ryan,
Thanks for your inquiry. The CXP22S rims are being used again in 2014 and they will allow 11 speed compatible hubs to be used. The Garmin Edition F5 used a special superlight hubset developed with Novatech and it uses their 3:1 freehub system. I know that Novatech has introduced their ABG 11 speed Shimano freehub but I'm not certain what is required in making the swap. I'm guessing you'll need a new axle, freehub and end cap as well as an additional ~1mm (0.925mm) of dish toward the drive side to make it work.

It may be more affordable to buy a new rear hub and have the wheel relaced. I'd contact Novatech for details on what is involved.

Thanks for your business.

-SD


----------



## Lachapr

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Ryan,
> Thanks for your inquiry. The CXP22S rims are being used again in 2014 and they will allow 11 speed compatible hubs to be used. The Garmin Edition F5 used a special superlight hubset developed with Novatech and it uses their 3:1 freehub system. I know that Novatech has introduced their ABG 11 speed Shimano freehub but I'm not certain what is required in making the swap. I'm guessing you'll need a new axle, freehub and end cap as well as an additional ~1mm (0.925mm) of dish toward the drive side to make it work.
> 
> It may be more affordable to buy a new rear hub and have the wheel relaced. I'd contact Novatech for details on what is involved.
> 
> Thanks for your business.
> 
> -SD


Thanks for the info SD! I will reach out to Novatech.

Ryan


----------



## blairellis

Any plans to release a 2014 F75x with internal cable routing? Don't want to have to replace cables all the time in the wet stuff and need something I can put a rack on to commute with. So far, you are being edged out by a Norco Threshold A1. I'd rather have the Ultegra rear derailleur that you offer though. Don't like the shifting of SRAM otherwise I'd be looking at your F65x.


----------



## Superdave3T

blairellis said:


> Any plans to release a 2014 F75x with internal cable routing? Don't want to have to replace cables all the time in the wet stuff and need something I can put a rack on to commute with. So far, you are being edged out by a Norco Threshold A1. I'd rather have the Ultegra rear derailleur that you offer though. Don't like the shifting of SRAM otherwise I'd be looking at your F65x.


Internal cable routing does not mean that dirt and mud won't intrude upon the housing and muck up your shifting. We use downtube cable routing specifically at the request of our pro and pro mechanics who frequently need to wash the bikes in the pits between laps. Jagwire makes some awesome sealed housing ferrules with liners that slip over the exposed inner wire but even a sealed system isn't submersible. If you wanted to run full housing from shifter to rear derailleur you could add some of the stick on cable guides. Do you have any experience with internal cable routing on a CX bike?

-SD


----------



## blairellis

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Internal cable routing does not mean that dirt and mud won't intrude upon the housing and muck up your shifting. We use downtube cable routing specifically at the request of our pro and pro mechanics who frequently need to wash the bikes in the pits between laps. Jagwire makes some awesome sealed housing ferrules with liners that slip over the exposed inner wire but even a sealed system isn't submersible. If you wanted to run full housing from shifter to rear derailleur you could add some of the stick on cable guides. Do you have any experience with internal cable routing on a CX bike?
> 
> -SD


Thanks for the quick response. Impressive.

I don't have any experience with internal on a cross bike. I've got it on my Tarmac road bike but that's the extent of it. I know it's not bomb proof, but wanted to keep it from getting gunked up as much as possible as this will be a daily commuter and I'm trying to keep maintenance to a minimum.

Let me get with my LBS and see what they have to say. If the bike I end up going with has external routing, then your idea of the cable covers is a great idea. Didn't even think to ask them if that could be done. Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

blairellis said:


> Thanks for the quick response. Impressive.
> 
> I don't have any experience with internal on a cross bike. I've got it on my Tarmac road bike but that's the extent of it. I know it's not bomb proof, but wanted to keep it from getting gunked up as much as possible as this will be a daily commuter and I'm trying to keep maintenance to a minimum.
> 
> Let me get with my LBS and see what they have to say. If the bike I end up going with has external routing, then your idea of the cable covers is a great idea. Didn't even think to ask them if that could be done. Thanks!


I should also say the Norco Threshold A1 is a nice bike as is the new Raleigh at this price point (top tube cable routing). It seems each brand has its own theory and solution to the foul weather solution.

Of course the real answer to all this is to just install Ultegra Di2 and be done with any care of dirt/mud. Every podium at this year's 'cross worlds was won on Di2. U23, Jr, Women, Men, etc...SRAM shutout. You could just add Ultegra Di2 shifters, wires, and front and rear derailleurs, the rest of the bike would work just fine with 6770.

It's a bit more pricey than Jagwire's sealed housings. 

Let me know what you end up with, I'd like to hear more about the argument of internal routing and how exactly it might prevent contamination without the use of full continuous housing.


-SD


----------



## davegregoire

Hey SD, 

What happened to the custom painting program on the website? I was reading that it was expanded for 2013 to include the FC and not just the F1 but I can no longer find it on the website.


----------



## igotyofire

Is my chain causing this? My friend said it was my pedaling and max float with my speedplay X pedals, Initially I thought he was right but now since more damage has been done it looks to me like its the chain. I just purchased the speedplay Zeros but am thinking I should return them now.


----------



## igotyofire

duplicate


----------



## kevhogaz

Page wouldn't load, sorry.


----------



## kevhogaz

This site gets worse, every day.


----------



## kevhogaz

Which brake caliper nuts do I use to hold my SRAM Red calipers, to my 2012 F1? I have a bunch of the nuts, just wanna make sure I'm using the right one.


----------



## engineer1

igotyofire said:


> Is my chain causing this? My friend said it was my pedaling and max float with my speedplay X pedals, Initially I thought he was right but now since more damage has been done it looks to me like its the chain. I just purchased the speedplay Zeros but am thinking I should return them now.


That hasn't happened to my Z4. It is hard to imagine that the chain is causing that. 
I wrapped my chainstays with "helicopter" tape (ISC Racerstape.com Save Your Paint!!! surface guard tape 2"x12' : Amazon.com : Automotive) to protect the finish in case something like this happens.

EDIT: I realize that this thread is intended for Dave... I just wanted to throw out some ideas.


----------



## nothing

When can i expect the F3 - Chain-Plate-Frame-Protector to be back in stock?

Chain Plate Frame Protector - Felt Bicycles


----------



## engineer1

Dave,

I like the bar tape that came on my 2013 z4. I would like it in black instead of white to hide any grime/dirt. Is this tape available on your website? I just want to be sure that I am ordering the correct one.

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

davegregoire said:


> Hey SD,
> 
> What happened to the custom painting program on the website? I was reading that it was expanded for 2013 to include the FC and not just the F1 but I can no longer find it on the website.


Indeed the FC was added this year; in fact the team I race with is using them. For now, 2013 is winding down. 2014 will be launched in the coming weeks. We'll keep you updated.

-SD


----------



## Hitman11

igotyofire said:


> Is my chain causing this? My friend said it was my pedaling and max float with my speedplay X pedals, Initially I thought he was right but now since more damage has been done it looks to me like its the chain. I just purchased the speedplay Zeros but am thinking I should return them now.


I have a 2013 Z4 58cm and I noticed that I have the same marks on my drive side chain stay.
i would be very interested to hear a response on this thread. I was wondering how the marks had happened, but I couldn't come up with any good explanation.
thanks for posting these pictures and question.


----------



## jmorgan

Hitman11 said:


> I have a 2013 Z4 58cm and I noticed that I have the same marks on my drive side chain stay.
> i would be very interested to hear a response on this thread. I was wondering how the marks had happened, but I couldn't come up with any good explanation.
> thanks for posting these pictures and question.


If its on the top it could be the chain slapping it when you go over a bump and the chain goes slack. If its on the bottom it could be your shoe heal hitting it as your foot comes up or something else like resting your bike on something.

You can get some helicopter tape that is clear and will protect it.


----------



## Hitman11

jmorgan said:


> If its on the top it could be the chain slapping it when you go over a bump and the chain goes slack. If its on the bottom it could be your shoe heal hitting it as your foot comes up or something else like resting your bike on something.
> 
> You can get some helicopter tape that is clear and will protect it.


These marks are on the side, maybe 3/4 from the top, of the drive side chain stay. My pedals don't allow for my heel to come in contact with the chain stay. I'm assuming it is damage from the chain, although I hadn't given it much thought until I saw the post from igotyafire showing the near identical damage on his chain stay.

Where do you buy helicopter tape? I've never heard of it before.


----------



## jmorgan

I bought a roll from amazon


----------



## bahula03

Dave,

I'm planning on upgrading to Ultegra Di2 on my 2011 F5 in the near future- what wire lengths would you recommend for a 54cm frame?

Thank you!


----------



## Superdave3T

bahula03 said:


> Dave,
> 
> I'm planning on upgrading to Ultegra Di2 on my 2011 F5 in the near future- what wire lengths would you recommend for a 54cm frame?
> 
> Thank you!


2 x 300 for bars
1 x 350 for F/D
1 x 450 for R/D
1 x 650 for down tube
1 x 450 for battery on chainstay
or
1 x 800 for seat tube internal battery

Are you drilling the frame or running the wires on the outside?

If inside jet JC41 junction B.
I'd get a 5 port junction-A box, not a 3 port or the older soldered 1 piece 6770 unit.

Enjoy,
-SD


----------



## nickcarll

Just bought a felt f75 first "real" road bike. I say real because I am commng off of a steal ss road bike. My question is what is the stock wheel weight on this rig?


----------



## bwbishop

nickcarll said:


> Just bought a felt f75 first "real" road bike. I say real because I am commng off of a steal ss road bike. My question is what is the stock wheel weight on this rig?


I'm assuming it comes with the Mavic CXP-22 rims on Felt hubs, and if that is correct, then the wheel set (excluding casset, tube, etc) weighs about 2074 grams. At least that is what my CXP-22 Felt set weighs.


----------



## nickcarll

Thats it thank you


----------



## Superdave3T

kevhogaz said:


> Which brake caliper nuts do I use to hold my SRAM Red calipers, to my 2012 F1? I have a bunch of the nuts, just wanna make sure I'm using the right one.


30mm for SRAM.

-SD


----------



## Gaines1016

Silly question. I am very interested in the 2013 Z2. I understand the reasoning with having a policy where dealers are not to ship your bikes. However, I did find a shop in the US advertising a Z2 online at a nice discount but they will not ship the bike per manufacturers rules. I have checked the local dealers within a 90 mile radius and emailed them the listing to see if they could meet or do better than the online sale price and have been unable as of yet to find somebody with the bike in stock that will match the discounted price. Am I just out of luck here or is there some way I can find one of these at the price I found online without flying half way around the country? Thanks for any info.


----------



## Superdave3T

Gaines1016 said:


> Silly question. I am very interested in the 2013 Z2. I understand the reasoning with having a policy where dealers are not to ship your bikes. However, I did find a shop in the US advertising a Z2 online at a nice discount but they will not ship the bike per manufacturers rules. I have checked the local dealers within a 90 mile radius and emailed them the listing to see if they could meet or do better than the online sale price and have been unable as of yet to find somebody with the bike in stock that will match the discounted price. Am I just out of luck here or is there some way I can find one of these at the price I found online without flying half way around the country? Thanks for any info.


What dealer has the bike you want at the price you are willing to pay?
Where are you located?
-SD


----------



## Gaines1016

SuperdaveFelt said:


> What dealer has the bike you want at the price you are willing to pay?
> Where are you located?
> -SD


sent you a pm


----------



## TheEnd

*Rear hub failure after 3 months*

The rear hub on my 2013 Z85 made a grinding sound at 3 months, so I took it to my Felt retailer. He said that it needed to be rebuilt, but the repair is not covered under warranty. I have not abused this bicycle. It's only a $40 repair, but it still sucks that I am stuck with the bill.

Spending $1,349 on a bicycle was a big step for me. This was my first Felt. It will also be my last.

I have no question for Felt. I sent an email to their support and got no reply. Just wanted to let them know that I feel let down by their product and support. I've already shared this story on other message boards and with my bicycle club.


----------



## bahula03

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 2 x 300 for bars
> 1 x 350 for F/D
> 1 x 450 for R/D
> 1 x 650 for down tube
> 1 x 450 for battery on chainstay
> or
> 1 x 800 for seat tube internal battery
> 
> Are you drilling the frame or running the wires on the outside?
> 
> If inside jet JC41 junction B.
> I'd get a 5 port junction-A box, not a 3 port or the older soldered 1 piece 6770 unit.
> 
> Enjoy,
> -SD


Thanks for the response, I'm going with an external installation...not quite brave enough to drill the frame! Looking forward to the upgrade.


----------



## TheEnd

After a week of waiting, the retailer contacted me today to inform me that fixing the hub is impossible (I have the voicemail with this quote) and that Felt does not warranty hubs. I'll be selling my Z85 on Craigslist and getting a Trek. Their retailers can service their bikes and their customer support responds to customer concerns.

So, SuperdaveFelt, why does Felt not warranty their hubs on a $1,349 bicycle when they sound like junk after 3 months?


----------



## Don4

TheEnd said:


> After a week of waiting, the retailer contacted me today to inform me that fixing the hub is impossible (I have the voicemail with this quote) and that Felt does not warranty hubs. I'll be selling my Z85 on Craigslist and getting a Trek. Their retailers can service their bikes and their customer support responds to customer concerns.
> 
> So, SuperdaveFelt, why does Felt not warranty their hubs on a $1,349 bicycle when they sound like junk after 3 months?


Does Trek make good bikes?

Mind you, that is a rhetorical question.

I must say, while I hope you get your bike taken care off, you come into this forum, and start slinging dispersions (in your first post EVER on RBR), noting that you've been doing the same elsewhere, and all this before you even get the response back from the retailer?

Seriously, dude, get a life, and get some perspective. Life is too short to carry that much anger around.


----------



## TheEnd

Oh, yeah, I didn't do the obligatory "Hi, I'm a noob. This bicycle thing is great" post. Or, is this "Ask Felt" limited to positive reviews? Anger? No. It's disappointment. I have an issue, I went to get help and got nothing. The Felt website states: "USA customers who have customer service questions or a warranty issue should begin the process by contacting the shop from which their Felt was originally purchased. If for some reason this is not possible, contact your nearest Felt dealer." I did that and got nothing. I emailed Felt too. Nothing. Having hubs that fail and are impossible to service at 3 months seems ridiculous to me.

Yes, life is short and people should not waste it on shoddy products.

I'll leave now and you guys and SuperdaveFelt can go back to your fanboy activities.


----------



## vivid

Hey all (particularly SDave),

I am looking at getting a new frame. I am torn between 4 frames... Well two frames the F1 and FC, but two different model years. 

Although my LBS could order many 2014 bikes, they had little info on the F1 and FC for 2014. I've read a few articles that said Felt will be using FRD carbon for the 2014 F1. If this is true is the Ultimate Carbon trickling down to the FC? Or is there going to be an FRD frame/bike positioned above the F1?

Sorry for all of the questions, but I would hate to order a frame just to find out it will be superseded in a few weeks. Also that FRD carbon looks
View attachment 285325
.

If there is no official info on the frames yet, does anyone have any idea when the 2014 F1, FC and/or F-FRD frame details will be released?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

TheEnd said:


> After a week of waiting, the retailer contacted me today to inform me that fixing the hub is impossible (I have the voicemail with this quote) and that Felt does not warranty hubs. I'll be selling my Z85 on Craigslist and getting a Trek. Their retailers can service their bikes and their customer support responds to customer concerns.
> 
> So, SuperdaveFelt, why does Felt not warranty their hubs on a $1,349 bicycle when they sound like junk after 3 months?


TheEnd,

Thanks for your inquiry. I understand your dealer has been unable to fix the hub. I'm afraid I cannot diagnose or repair whatever is causing the issue from my computer but I'd be eager to evaluate the problem. 

Felt has a lifetime warranty on our frames and forks and a 1 year warranty on all the parts. Many of the manufacturers also have their own warranty for the individual components. 

Please understand that the hubs are well sealed against the elements and come equipped with adequate lubrication to provide miles of trouble-free life. They are not submersible and if the bike was ridden for long periods of time in the rain or perched atop a roof rack or mounted on a trunk rack and driven in the rain it will need to be serviced. I don't know the conditions the hub was used in nor the circumstances surrounding your claim to your dealer. The problem you describe of "they sound like junk" could be one of a dry freehub and pawl system, a loose cup/cone, or other curable ailment. Felt's Dealer Support network has hub parts and complete hubs as well as replacement wheels to aid our dealers for valid claims.

I'm glad you've posted your frustration on a public message board as it gives us an opportunity to ensure we've done everything we reasonably can. Felt has the very best team in our customer service department so I'm convinced we'll be able to find the cause and a solution.

Can you let me know who you spoke with at your Felt Retailer?
Can you tell me where and when you purchased the $1349 Z85?
If possible, can you ask your retailer who they spoke with at the Felt USA Dealer Support center? I'm afraid I work in a different division in a different city so getting these details would be helpful in speeding investigation.

If you care to discuss the case on the phone or email, feel free to contact me:

Dave Koesel
Felt Bicycles
(e) davekoesel at feltbicycles dot com
(p) nine four nine two six eight four four six four

If you're convinced a Trek bicycle and Trek's retailers will better serve your needs I'm sure you'll have no trouble selling the Z85 as it is unmatched in our industry for performance and specification.

Sincerely,
SD


----------



## davegregoire

I don't currently own a felt, but I feel you will not find a more responsive company than this.



SuperdaveFelt said:


> TheEnd,
> 
> Thanks for your inquiry. I understand your dealer has been unable to fix the hub. I'm afraid I cannot diagnose or repair whatever is causing the issue from my computer but I'd be eager to evaluate the problem.
> 
> Felt has a lifetime warranty on our frames and forks and a 1 year warranty on all the parts. Many of the manufacturers also have their own warranty for the individual components.
> 
> Please understand that the hubs are well sealed against the elements and come equipped with adequate lubrication to provide miles of trouble-free life. They are not submersible and if the bike was ridden for long periods of time in the rain or perched atop a roof rack or mounted on a trunk rack and driven in the rain it will need to be serviced. I don't know the conditions the hub was used in nor the circumstances surrounding your claim to your dealer. The problem you describe of "they sound like junk" could be one of a dry freehub and pawl system, a loose cup/cone, or other curable ailment. Felt's Dealer Support network has hub parts and complete hubs as well as replacement wheels to aid our dealers for valid claims.
> 
> I'm glad you've posted your frustration on a public message board as it gives us an opportunity to ensure we've done everything we reasonably can. Felt has the very best team in our customer service department so I'm convinced we'll be able to find the cause and a solution.
> 
> Can you let me know who you spoke with at your Felt Retailer?
> Can you tell me where and when you purchased the $1349 Z85?
> If possible, can you ask your retailer who they spoke with at the Felt USA Dealer Support center? I'm afraid I work in a different division in a different city so getting these details would be helpful in speeding investigation.
> 
> If you care to discuss the case on the phone or email, feel free to contact me:
> 
> Dave Koesel
> Felt Bicycles
> (e) davekoesel at feltbicycles dot com
> (p) nine four nine two six eight four four six four
> 
> If you're convinced a Trek bicycle and Trek's retailers will better serve your needs I'm sure you'll have no trouble selling the Z85 as it is unmatched in our industry for performance and specification.
> 
> Sincerely,
> SD


----------



## TheEnd

Email sent with the information you requested.

Up until last week, I loved this bike. Bragged about it on my group rides. Rode it on Ragbrai across Iowa. It was my screen saver on my laptop and phone. However, I can't own a product with an issue that the authorized retailer says cannot be addressed, warranty or otherwise.


----------



## nickcarll

Realize that you purchased an entry level bike and chances are the trek you get eill have the comparable hubs if the exact hub with a trek logo on it.


----------



## FeltF75rider

Just curious, do you have any mechanical skills? I ask because it sounds like you are going by what your bile shop is telling you. Have you physically looked at the hub, bearings and examined the races. That hub would have had to been bone dry of grease. I would have pulled it apart and put fresh grease through out after s good cleaning. I said this in your other thread, your LBS wants you to spend some more money on a wheel set. You can get a Trek, but when something goes wrong with that are you going to bad mouth it and sell it as well. Take you wheel and get a second opinion at another shop. If you sell it you will not get all your money back towards another bike and have to poney up some cash to by another bike any way.


----------



## Superdave3T

TheEnd said:


> I emailed Felt too. Nothing. Having hubs that fail and are impossible to service at 3 months seems ridiculous to me.
> Yes, life is short and people should not waste it on shoddy products.
> I'll leave now and you guys and SuperdaveFelt can go back to your fanboy activities.[/COLOR][/FONT]


TheEnd,

Did you get my email reply? Did Felt's Customer Service team contact you? Does your hub not function (drive the bike forward when pedalling and freewheel when coasting) or does the hub just make noise that wasn't audible when the bike was new and it needs silencing?

I'm unclear now if you are no longer looking for assistance with your claim from Felt and/or myself. As I stated previously, I'm convinced a positive outcome will be reached should you wish to keep the bicycle.

Regards,
Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

vivid said:


> Hey all (particularly SDave),
> 
> I am looking at getting a new frame. I am torn between 4 frames... Well two frames the F1 and FC, but two different model years.
> 
> Although my LBS could order many 2014 bikes, they had little info on the F1 and FC for 2014. I've read a few articles that said Felt will be using FRD carbon for the 2014 F1. If this is true is the Ultimate Carbon trickling down to the FC? Or is there going to be an FRD frame/bike positioned above the F1?
> 
> Sorry for all of the questions, but I would hate to order a frame just to find out it will be superseded in a few weeks. Also that FRD carbon looks
> View attachment 285325
> .
> 
> If there is no official info on the frames yet, does anyone have any idea when the 2014 F1, FC and/or F-FRD frame details will be released?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The FC is the same for 2014 save the artwork. The carbon lay-up remains exactly as it was. The bike has been such a great selling model for us and continues to serve several of our professional teams and athletes. I recommend the FC for anyone who places a high degree of importance on stiffness, ride quality and practical durability and price.

I'll have more on the 2014 F1 August 28th.

-SD


----------



## TheEnd

I did not hear from Felts Customer Service Team. I have communicated to you the exact timeline of events via email. Felt has my email and telephone number from the time I registered my bicycle.


----------



## TheEnd

LBS has ordered a replacement freehub, since the one on my bicycle can be minimally serviced. Those are their words.

I will accept whatever part they provide and be on my way.


----------



## vivid

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The FC is the same for 2014 save the artwork. The carbon lay-up remains exactly as it was. The bike has been such a great selling model for us and continues to serve several of our professional teams and athletes. I recommend the FC for anyone who places a high degree of importance on stiffness, ride quality and practical durability and price.
> 
> I'll have more on the 2014 F1 August 28th.
> 
> -SD


Dave,

Thanks for your reply. Do you happen to have pics of the FC 2014 livery? I haven't been able to find any images of the new colorings.


----------



## mellowman

Looking to replace my felt seatpost clamp with something lighter. I have a '13 Z4. The size of the clamp is 30.6mm, the most common closest clamp size is 31.8mm. I found that I need to put aluminum shims made from soda cans in order fill up space to have enough clamp force to work. 

Would like a better solution than hacked shims. I see Felt's site lists Single Seatpost Clamp with a shim. Would using that shim be the best alternative? Any means of getting the shim rather than having to buy the single clamp?

Also why do you guys use 30.6mm?

TIA.


----------



## chudak

TheEnd said:


> LBS has ordered a replacement freehub, since the one on my bicycle can be minimally serviced. Those are their words.
> 
> I will accept whatever part they provide and be on my way.


Yeah, I got the same response to an issue with my Z4 wheel. They said they couldn't service the freehub only the axle bearings. WTH?!


----------



## Superdave3T

mellowman said:


> Looking to replace my felt seatpost clamp with something lighter. I have a '13 Z4. The size of the clamp is 30.6mm, the most common closest clamp size is 31.8mm. I found that I need to put aluminum shims made from soda cans in order fill up space to have enough clamp force to work.
> 
> Would like a better solution than hacked shims. I see Felt's site lists Single Seatpost Clamp with a shim. Would using that shim be the best alternative? Any means of getting the shim rather than having to buy the single clamp?
> 
> Also why do you guys use 30.6mm?
> 
> TIA.


You can get single clamps from KCNC in 30.6mm size. We also offer the single bolt CNC machined 30.6mm clamp in our aftermarket parts offering. I'd recommend the OEM clamp, however.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

chudak said:


> Yeah, I got the same response to an issue with my Z4 wheel. They said they couldn't service the freehub only the axle bearings. WTH?!


Removing the freehub requires a large hex or Allen wrench. Perhaps some shops do not have this size? I'm not sure where the service problem comes from but we have axles, cones, bearings, and freehubs available to our dealers to service the hubs.

Regards,
Dave


----------



## jmorgan

Dave,

Do you know the weight for the FA frameset by itself? 54 or 56cm if you have one, thanks


----------



## Gaines1016

Are there any issues with running one of these "trendy" wide (23 mm wide) wheels like the hed belgium c2 with 25c tires? brakes rubbing etc.? Also any issue with running something like the white industries t11 hub with a spacer for use with my current 10 speed (who knows if I will go to 11 one day but would like the option). appreciate any feedback or heads up on any small modifications it would take to run this sort of set up. Thanks.


----------



## bwbishop

Gaines1016 said:


> Are there any issues with running one of these "trendy" wide (23 mm wide) wheels like the hed belgium c2 with 25c tires? brakes rubbing etc.? Also any issue with running something like the white industries t11 hub with a spacer for use with my current 10 speed (who knows if I will go to 11 one day but would like the option). appreciate any feedback or heads up on any small modifications it would take to run this sort of set up. Thanks.


I have everything you just mentioned on my Zc and there are zero issues. 

Pacenti SL23S, T11, 25c tires and a spacer for 10 speeds.


----------



## Gaines1016

bwbishop said:


> I have everything you just mentioned on my Zc and there are zero issues.
> 
> Pacenti SL23S, T11, 25c tires and a spacer for 10 speeds.


very good. thanks for the response. much appreciated.


----------



## Fireform

It occurs to me to post these questions here:

I'm looking for the Devox (carbon) version of the Bayonet 3 aerobar, but only the alloy version appears on the Felt website. Is it possible to buy this aerobar, and if so for how much? Also, what is the weight difference between the alloy and carbon versions? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

Fireform said:


> It occurs to me to post these questions here:
> 
> I'm looking for the Devox (carbon) version of the Bayonet 3 aerobar, but only the alloy version appears on the Felt website. Is it possible to buy this aerobar, and if so for how much? Also, what is the weight difference between the alloy and carbon versions?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


the carbon bar only fits the DA fixed position stems and possibly the new Alpha stem from TriRig. The carbon bar is about 210g lighter than the aluminum version with the clip-on clamps.

-SD


----------



## Fireform

Interesting--why won't it fit the bayonet 2 stems?


----------



## Superdave3T

Fireform said:


> Interesting--why won't it fit the bayonet 2 stems?


The clamping area is too narrow on the bars.


----------



## Fireform

Thank you for the feedback, Dave. Very helpful.


----------



## bahula03

Dave-

Thanks again for the Di2 info, finally got the bike back today and thought I'd share how it came together. Black with red splatter tape is on the way and the stem will change as I get back into shape after a year off :blush2:


----------



## vivid

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 2 x 300 for bars
> 1 x 350 for F/D
> 1 x 450 for R/D
> 1 x 650 for down tube
> 1 x 450 for battery on chainstay
> or
> 1 x 800 for seat tube internal battery
> 
> Are you drilling the frame or running the wires on the outside?
> 
> If inside jet JC41 junction B.
> I'd get a 5 port junction-A box, not a 3 port or the older soldered 1 piece 6770 unit.





bahula03 said:


> Dave-
> 
> Thanks again for the Di2 info, finally got the bike back today and thought I'd share how it came together. Black with red splatter tape is on the way and the stem will change as I get back into shape after a year off :blush2:


Dave,

From your post above, it sounds like Felt allows dealers to drill holes into an F5/4, to allow for Di2 internal wiring, and still retain the frame warranty. If so, this is great news. I would love to pick up an F5, and drill it for Di2 internal wiring and battery. 

Could you confirm that is the case, IE that the frame can be drilled for Di2 and still retain the warranty?


----------



## bahula03

For my part, I did *not* drill or modify my frame, nor has anyone associated with Felt said that drilling the frame wouldn't impact the warranty.


----------



## vivid

bahula03 said:


> For my part, I did *not* drill or modify my frame, nor has anyone associated with Felt said that drilling the frame wouldn't impact the warranty.


Bal,

I did not say that you did, but a Felt rep offered it as an option, without any caveats, and even outlined the parts needed to do it. This, to me, implies that it is a sanctioned action. I'm just asking for clarification on this. 

I would have thought that drilling a frame would impact the warranty, but for this instance (running Di2 internally) there could be an acceptable procedure that a dealer could do, or even an option of returning the frame to felt for them to do, which leaves the warranty intact.


----------



## NickyB

Help! I just purchase a 2013 Felt B12. I am trying to raise the stack on my Bayonet Aero bars. The Felt tech documentation says they have 40mm risers. All the Felt dealers in NYC tell me they don't! Even with the 20mm risers I cannot seem to get all the appropriate screws, bolts, washers, etc. The dealers don't seem to know how to raise the stack and felt does't send all the parts. I have had 2 hatchet jobs done and the adjustable bridge was not even supplied. The set-up is unstable and dangerous. Any suggestions?


----------



## YB1

Thanks for having this Felt! Sometimes it's not so easy to get extra info from the source.

My question is: I've ordered a 2014 AR Di2 FRD and I know it's going to be a very special bike, but I don't understand why Felt chose not to use the DA BR-9010 aero-style brakes. Seeing them on the Madone at a local Trek store made be jealous, those brakes look nice


----------



## YB1

doubled


----------



## Superdave3T

vivid said:


> Bal,
> 
> I did not say that you did, but a Felt rep offered it as an option, without any caveats, and even outlined the parts needed to do it. This, to me, implies that it is a sanctioned action. I'm just asking for clarification on this.
> 
> I would have thought that drilling a frame would impact the warranty, but for this instance (running Di2 internally) there could be an acceptable procedure that a dealer could do, or even an option of returning the frame to felt for them to do, which leaves the warranty intact.


Are you a lawyer? If he replied he was going to drill holes in the frame I was going to advise that he'll invalidate his warranty by modifying the frame. I'm surprised to have to state this but drilling holes in your carbon frame falls under the "do not modify" clause in the warranty.

The frames with internal cable routing use a different lay up and molding process that allows the holes to be made without the risk of losing structural integrity.

This forum is a resource for some who have questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Felt does not host or sanction my participation and replies like yours might stimulate a policy to protect the company and prevent further cooperation on my part.

I'll be more careful in the future but the community would be less served with "no comment" replies from me.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

NickyB said:


> Help! I just purchase a 2013 Felt B12. I am trying to raise the stack on my Bayonet Aero bars. The Felt tech documentation says they have 40mm risers. All the Felt dealers in NYC tell me they don't! Even with the 20mm risers I cannot seem to get all the appropriate screws, bolts, washers, etc. The dealers don't seem to know how to raise the stack and felt does't send all the parts. I have had 2 hatchet jobs done and the adjustable bridge was not even supplied. The set-up is unstable and dangerous. Any suggestions?


It sounds like your didn't get all the parts that were included with the bike. Did you buy it new?
View attachment 286021


-SD


----------



## vivid

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Are you a lawyer? If he replied he was going to drill holes in the frame I was going to advise that he'll invalidate his warranty by modifying the frame. I'm surprised to have to state this but drilling holes in your carbon frame falls under the "do not modify" clause in the warranty.
> 
> The frames with internal cable routing use a different lay up and molding process that allows the holes to be made without the risk of losing structural integrity.
> 
> This forum is a resource for some who have questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Felt does not host or sanction my participation and replies like yours might stimulate a policy to protect the company and prevent further cooperation on my part.
> 
> I'll be more careful in the future but the community would be less served with "no comment" replies from me.
> 
> -SD


Dave,

Sorry but you have the wrong idea from my post. I was purely asking for clarification on a comment you made. As you can tell from what I previously said, I suspected that modifying a frame would impact the warranty, but from your post it sounded like there might be an exception for Di2 drilling. I'm sure you can see how one could infer that from what you said. I hope you would also agree that it is better to seek clarification on something which seems contrary to normal thought, than to act on an inference.

That is the entire purpose of this thread; to ask questions and to get answers. 

And no, I'm not a lawyer. I'm a potential customer wanting to get an F series bike and run Di2. A customer to whom the idea of buying an F5 on clearance and upgrading it to Di2, is very appealing. It is made even more appealing by the idea that drilling the frame might not impact the warranty. *** thank you for clarifying that there is not an exception for Di2 drilling***

But Dave, I very much appreciate your activity on this board. I think it is invaluable. You are one of the reasons I want to get a Felt. To be honest, when I could not find a phone number for Felt, and when I did not receive responses to emails submitted online, I nearly opted to buy another brand, but your board activity, honesty, genuine love for what you do and desire to help owners, made me change my mind and want to get a Felt again. Of course I understand if you choose to limit your info on here, but I hope you do not.


----------



## Superdave3T

vivid said:


> Dave,
> 
> Sorry but you have the wrong idea from my post. I was purely asking for clarification on a comment you made. As you can tell from what I previously said, I suspected that modifying a frame would impact the warranty, but from your post it sounded like there might be an exception for Di2 drilling. I'm sure you can see how one could infer that from what you said. I hope you would also agree that it is better to seek clarification on something which seems contrary to normal thought, than to act on an inference.
> 
> That is the entire purpose of this thread; to ask questions and to get answers.
> 
> And no, I'm not a lawyer. I'm a potential customer wanting to get an F series bike and run Di2. A customer to whom the idea of buying an F5 on clearance and upgrading it to Di2, is very appealing. It is made even more appealing by the idea that drilling the frame might not impact the warranty. *** thank you for clarifying that there is not an exception for Di2 drilling***
> 
> But Dave, I very much appreciate your activity on this board. I think it is invaluable. You are one of the reasons I want to get a Felt. To be honest, when I could not find a phone number for Felt, and when I did not receive responses to emails submitted online, I nearly opted to buy another brand, but your board activity, honesty, genuine love for what you do and desire to help owners, made me change my mind and want to get a Felt again. Of course I understand if you choose to limit your info on here, but I hope you do not.


You are right, I misunderstood your inquiry for a ****-stirring troll post. If the OP didn't care about the lack of a warranty I was going to advise where the patches in the frame are located so running the wires internally would be less likely to destroy the integrity of the frame.

In any case, thanks for your clarification and interest in Felt bicycles. I'll stick around as long as I'm permitted.

:thumbsup:

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

YB1 said:


> Thanks for having this Felt! Sometimes it's not so easy to get extra info from the source.
> 
> My question is: I've ordered a 2014 AR Di2 FRD and I know it's going to be a very special bike, but I don't understand why Felt chose not to use the DA BR-9010 aero-style brakes. Seeing them on the Madone at a local Trek store made be jealous, those brakes look nice


All of the AR models except the aluminum AR15 use the Shimano direct mount rear brakes mounted under the chainstay. The fork uses a conventional center mounted front brake because the aerodynamic advantages of the direct mount front brake are not nearly as large as the improvement when running a center pull style brake like the TriRig, the T726, or as in the case of the AR3 EPS, Campagnolo's aero front brake.

-SD

-SD


----------



## commfire

Hey Dave,
Drooling over the F1 FRD frame set. What is the Availability?

Anyone want to buy a 2012 F1 frame set?


----------



## vineland

Hi,

I'm looking to buy my first modern road bike - I'm currently riding an old 10-speed 1980s Nishiki Landau and love it, but as good an entry into the sport it has been, it's time to upgrade!

I'm debating between the F75 and Z85. The aggressive geometry of the F series appeals to me as it is reminiscent of my Nishiki, but I have concerns about the 11-25T cassette - I don't want my friends to drop me on large climbs.

That said, I'm really unsure of the upright positioning of the Z85... compared to my current bike it feels like a cruiser and I worry I wont be able to pound out the speed like I would with the F series, or the way I currently can.

I've test-ridden both and I'm torn. I wish I could take each on a 60k ride in the country and get a sense of how they perform on my favourite routes.

If I have no intention of competitive racing, would I be better off with a Z85? Rider aside, what are the _performance_ differences between the two bikes?

edit: I guess this has kind of been covered in this thread: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/felt/2012-f4-2013-z3-310642.html
I suppose I can always lower the handlebars on the Z85 for a more aggressive position. Excuse my ignorance of the correct vocabulary, but how much measured difference would there be between the lowest Z85 handle position and the default F75?


----------



## vivid

Vine,

Go to Felts site and click on the geo for each bike. Then compare the "stack" for your size of each bike. That will tell you how low you can go. You can get lower depending on the stem and handlebars you use, but stack will give you a number to compare.


----------



## Superdave3T

vineland said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm looking to buy my first modern road bike - I'm currently riding an old 10-speed 1980s Nishiki Landau and love it, but as good an entry into the sport it has been, it's time to upgrade!
> 
> I'm debating between the F75 and Z85. The aggressive geometry of the F series appeals to me as it is reminiscent of my Nishiki, but I have concerns about the 11-25T cassette - I don't want my friends to drop me on large climbs.
> 
> That said, I'm really unsure of the upright positioning of the Z85... compared to my current bike it feels like a cruiser and I worry I wont be able to pound out the speed like I would with the F series, or the way I currently can.
> 
> I've test-ridden both and I'm torn. I wish I could take each on a 60k ride in the country and get a sense of how they perform on my favourite routes.
> 
> If I have no intention of competitive racing, would I be better off with a Z85? Rider aside, what are the _performance_ differences between the two bikes?
> 
> edit: I guess this has kind of been covered in this thread: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/felt/2012-f4-2013-z3-310642.html
> I suppose I can always lower the handlebars on the Z85 for a more aggressive position. Excuse my ignorance of the correct vocabulary, but how much measured difference would there be between the lowest Z85 handle position and the default F75?



The Z85 comes with a stem that can be set up with a -16 degree (horizontal) angle. Running the stem "slammed" as low as possible you can mimic the bar position of the stock F75 set up. It will also yeild a stiffer front end to reduce or eliminate the amount of headset spacers on the steerer tube.

-SD


----------



## rickdees

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Good question.
> 
> Do you think consumers will be attracted to disc brakes on a Z bike despite the ~700g weight penalty?
> 
> What would a Z-disc deliver than a bike like the F1x or F3x miss from the consumer's perspective?
> 
> -SD


I would think that a Z-disc would offer a more comfortable ride than a Fx because of its geometry. The consumer demand is there because other companies are offering disc models in their endurance bikes -- namely the Specialized Secteur and Cannondale Synapse alloy.


----------



## rickdees

rickdees said:


> I would think that a Z-disc would offer a more comfortable ride than a Fx because of its geometry. The consumer demand is there because other companies are offering disc models in their endurance bikes -- namely the Specialized Secteur and Cannondale Synapse alloy.


Also Raleigh is offering a couple of disc models in their 2014 Revenio alloy endurance road bikes.

I think Felt would sell more Z85s if it had disc brakes, clearance for 33mm - 40 mm tires, and mounts for rack and fenders.


----------



## commfire

Dave ,
When will the F1 FRD be available in the US?


----------



## Superdave3T

rickdees said:


> I would think that a Z-disc would offer a more comfortable ride than a Fx because of its geometry. The consumer demand is there because other companies are offering disc models in their endurance bikes -- namely the Specialized Secteur and Cannondale Synapse alloy.


An FX bike has a longer wheelbase and adequate clearance for 35mm tires. The head tube is much taller than our F-series road bikes and the angles more relaxed. I don't think I'd agree the Z would be more comfortable as a rule. I know other companies are offering disc road, but I understand from bicycle dealers they are not checking through at the register. A 'cross bike just has more versatility.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

commfire said:


> Dave ,
> When will the F1 FRD be available in the US?


The frames should start to arrive in January.
-SD


----------



## Davi37ggs

I recently saw a picture (perhaps on Felt's Twitter feed) of a bike with red/black/white speckled bar tape.


----------



## tazunemono

When will the F24x be available and WHERE can I purchase one? None of my local Felt dealers know anything about the F24x (just the F24)

Kids 24" CX bike


----------



## Superdave3T

tazunemono said:


> When will the F24x be available and WHERE can I purchase one? None of my local Felt dealers know anything about the F24x (just the F24)
> 
> Kids 24" CX bike


The F24x has been in stock for USA Dealers for some time now. Any Felt Dealer can call an order one (or two) and have it shipped immediately. Where are you located? Who is your local Felt dealer(s)?

-SD


----------



## kojtl1000

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The frames should start to arrive in January.
> -SD


Hi Dave, is that safe estimate or could it be even later than that? I really need a frame asap and January is really late for me.
Is that the same for the AR FRD frameset?


----------



## Superdave3T

kojtl1000 said:


> Hi Dave, is that safe estimate or could it be even later than that? I really need a frame asap and January is really late for me.
> Is that the same for the AR FRD frameset?


Your best bet is to check with your local Felt Dealer with whom you'll be placing the order. I know when bicycles will go into production but I cannot predict the availability of such a limited production item. I know we've already received orders for many 2014s so you aren't likely to be first in line for an F FRD. If the bulk of Novembers' orders are already sold out, January is a safer bet.

Where are you located (country)
Who is your local Felt Dealer?

-SD


----------



## kojtl1000

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Your best bet is to check with your local Felt Dealer with whom you'll be placing the order. I know when bicycles will go into production but I cannot predict the availability of such a limited production item. I know we've already received orders for many 2014s so you aren't likely to be first in line for an F FRD. If the bulk of Novembers' orders are already sold out, January is a safer bet.
> 
> Where are you located (country)
> Who is your local Felt Dealer?
> 
> -SD


I'm based in the US (Illinois). Still in the process of choosing dealer.


----------



## Superdave3T

kojtl1000 said:


> I'm based in the US (Illinois). Still in the process of choosing dealer.


Your US based dealer can inquire on where you are in line for the size F FRD you need but until an order is placed it will be a moving (delivery) target.

-Dave


----------



## Donn12

I have an F65x which I love. I switch to this when the weather is cold and ride all winter. I am thinking about upgrading to campy athena/chorus or Di2 ultegra. I assume the campy switch would be simple but what about Di12? Because its aluminum Im not worried about warranty or drilling holes in it....any issues? I was hoping to see elec shift on some of the 2014 CX bikes!


----------



## BillyWayne

Dear Felt. Or in this case SuperDaveFelt. After watching all the new Felt marketing material I was wondering where I can get one of those snazzy Felt Bicycles polo shirts. I promise to wear it often and wax poetic about the amazing Felt bicycles. My friends mostly ride steel bikes but I do catch them looking lovingly at my Felt F. Any direction in this matter would be most appreciated.


----------



## Superdave3T

BillyWayne said:


> Dear Felt. Or in this case SuperDaveFelt. After watching all the new Felt marketing material I was wondering where I can get one of those snazzy Felt Bicycles polo shirts. I promise to wear it often and wax poetic about the amazing Felt bicycles. My friends mostly ride steel bikes but I do catch them looking lovingly at my Felt F. Any direction in this matter would be most appreciated.


Your Felt Dealer would be the first place to start. Short of that, what size are you? I might have one tucked away in my closet.

-SD


----------



## BillyWayne

Ohhh. Fast response. I usually am a large. 6'2". 180. 41" chest.


----------



## Superdave3T

BillyWayne said:


> Ohhh. Fast response. I usually am a large. 6'2". 180. 41" chest.


Lucky you. Just about the same size as I am. I might have you by a doughnut or two. What's your address?

-SD


----------



## BillyWayne

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Lucky you. Just about the same size as I am. I might have you by a doughnut or two. What's your address?
> 
> -SD


PM sent. You really are "Super." Thanks.


----------



## vivid

Dave,

Will the 2013 F5 seatpost hold a 9mm oval carbon rail, or would I need to source an after market post/clamp?


----------



## Superdave3T

vivid said:


> Dave,
> 
> Will the 2013 F5 seatpost hold a 9mm oval carbon rail, or would I need to source an after market post/clamp?


You can run a carbon railled saddle with the seatpost, not a problem.
If you use an extreme saddle angle you may have to replace one of the M6 bolts.

-Dave


----------



## Donn12

Donn12 said:


> I have an F65x which I love. I switch to this when the weather is cold and ride all winter. I am thinking about upgrading to campy athena/chorus or Di2 ultegra. I assume the campy switch would be simple but what about Di12? Because its aluminum Im not worried about warranty or drilling holes in it....any issues? I was hoping to see elec shift on some of the 2014 CX bikes!



What do ya think super dave?


----------



## Superdave3T

Donn12 said:


> What do ya think super dave?


Every podium at last year's WC was filled with rides on Di2. It is a proven system in the mud. Drilling your frame voids your warranty but that doesn't stop many people from adding internal routing to their frame. My colleague recently set up his old F15 with Athena EPS and ran all the wires inside the frame. 

The key is to use the locations already reinforced and/or which see low stress so cracks do not propagate. Don't drill the top of the top tube or downtube for example. This is a common area for carbon frames to use but there is a high load here during high amplitude frontal impact on an aluminum frame.

I wish we could have used Di2 again on the CX bikes in 2014 like we did in 2012 and 2013 but the change to 11 speed and popularity of disc brakes meant were we unable to produce a bike that met our delivery requirements. Of course I'm aware of the new 6870 and R785 shifter/brake options but you won't see those items in stores for months and we're required to ship CX bikes to our dealers in July. Hopefully for 2015 we'll see availability match our delivery needs.

Regards,
Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

Donn12 said:


> I have an F65x which I love. I switch to this when the weather is cold and ride all winter. I am thinking about upgrading to campy athena/chorus or Di2 ultegra. I assume the campy switch would be simple but what about Di12? Because its aluminum Im not worried about warranty or drilling holes in it....any issues? I was hoping to see elec shift on some of the 2014 CX bikes!


This will void your warranty but if you don't care here are some shots from an EPS conversion:




















































-Dave


----------



## Hallscamp

Hi Dave,

I have been having a certain issue with the BB30 on my 2013 Felt Z85. Here is the history:

I have been experiencing a clicking or ticking noise in the area of the bottom bracket of your Z85 almost from the very time I bought it.

My LBS, has been pulling the bearings, cleaning, inspecting, not seeing anything, greasing and putting back together. The noise goes away, but only temporarily.

My LBS got ahold of Felt Support, and Felt sent a new bearing with instructions on a particular Locktite to use when installing. The Locktite used is more of a filler than it is an adhesive. This was a couple of weeks ago. </SPAN>

I took the Z85 on my first Century last weekend. About halfway into the ride, the noise came back and got very loud by the time I could get to a mechanic. The mechanic inspected the bearing and noticed a significant gap in one spot between the bearing outer seal and the BB shell. His opinion was that the BB shell where the bearing fits in, is not perfectly round, but is slightly elongated. He greased it up, put it back together and the BB was quiet for the rest of the ride.</SPAN>
I am quite certain the noise is going to come back again. I plan on visiting my LBS this week regarding the issue again. But, I thought I would run this by you and see if you have had some history with this particular problem. I’m not sure if my LBS has exhausted their efforts and is running out of options without more support from Felt on this matter.</SPAN>

Appreciate it Dave,</SPAN>
-Hallscamp</SPAN>


----------



## vivid

Hey Dave,

Just go my F5. I was wondering what the two screws are for on the underneath side of the NDS chainstay? Di2 Battery mounting screws?


----------



## chudak

Hallscamp said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have been having a certain issue with the BB30 on my 2013 Felt Z85. Here is the history:
> 
> I have been experiencing a clicking or ticking noise in the area of the bottom bracket of your Z85 almost from the very time I bought it.
> 
> My LBS, has been pulling the bearings, cleaning, inspecting, not seeing anything, greasing and putting back together. The noise goes away, but only temporarily.
> 
> My LBS got ahold of Felt Support, and Felt sent a new bearing with instructions on a particular Locktite to use when installing. The Locktite used is more of a filler than it is an adhesive. This was a couple of weeks ago. </SPAN>
> 
> I took the Z85 on my first Century last weekend. About halfway into the ride, the noise came back and got very loud by the time I could get to a mechanic. The mechanic inspected the bearing and noticed a significant gap in one spot between the bearing outer seal and the BB shell. His opinion was that the BB shell where the bearing fits in, is not perfectly round, but is slightly elongated. He greased it up, put it back together and the BB was quiet for the rest of the ride.</SPAN>
> I am quite certain the noise is going to come back again. I plan on visiting my LBS this week regarding the issue again. But, I thought I would run this by you and see if you have had some history with this particular problem. I’m not sure if my LBS has exhausted their efforts and is running out of options without more support from Felt on this matter.</SPAN>
> 
> Appreciate it Dave,</SPAN>
> -Hallscamp</SPAN>


'

I have also had clicking on my 2013 Z4. They finally swapped the bearings and used locktite and it mostly went away. I've had clicking return a few times but the shop insists it isn't from the bearings but from other things. In one case, the headset.

I really am beginning to despise BB30 and other PF BB standards. I wish manufacturers would return to threaded BB's. PF sucks.


----------



## Superdave3T

vivid said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> Just go my F5. I was wondering what the two screws are for on the underneath side of the NDS chainstay? Di2 Battery mounting screws?


]

Yes, it is for mounting the Di2 short battery mount or the new EPS PU.

-Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

Hallscamp said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have been having a certain issue with the BB30 on my 2013 Felt Z85. Here is the history:
> 
> I have been experiencing a clicking or ticking noise in the area of the bottom bracket of your Z85 almost from the very time I bought it.
> 
> My LBS, has been pulling the bearings, cleaning, inspecting, not seeing anything, greasing and putting back together. The noise goes away, but only temporarily.
> 
> My LBS got ahold of Felt Support, and Felt sent a new bearing with instructions on a particular Locktite to use when installing. The Locktite used is more of a filler than it is an adhesive. This was a couple of weeks ago. </SPAN>
> 
> I took the Z85 on my first Century last weekend. About halfway into the ride, the noise came back and got very loud by the time I could get to a mechanic. The mechanic inspected the bearing and noticed a significant gap in one spot between the bearing outer seal and the BB shell. His opinion was that the BB shell where the bearing fits in, is not perfectly round, but is slightly elongated. He greased it up, put it back together and the BB was quiet for the rest of the ride.</SPAN>
> I am quite certain the noise is going to come back again. I plan on visiting my LBS this week regarding the issue again. But, I thought I would run this by you and see if you have had some history with this particular problem. I’m not sure if my LBS has exhausted their efforts and is running out of options without more support from Felt on this matter.</SPAN>
> 
> Appreciate it Dave,</SPAN>
> -Hallscamp</SPAN>


I use anti-seize on the bearings and spindle instead of grease as it is much higher from a viscosity standpoints. I don't have any particular suggestions and diagnosing creaking via an internet forum is like trying to give you a haircut over the phone. Often drivetrain creaks come from less obvious areas so don't discount chainring bolts and hub,axle,QR items. 

We can check for the roundess issue you were concerned about, but the frames are carefully machined and checked for tolerance before assembly. Were the bearings replaced by you or a dealer? Did they use a bearing press for installation?

If you'd like your frame inspected your dealer can arrange to have it sent back to Felt's customer service center.

-Dave


----------



## Hallscamp

Thank you for the feedback Dave, I will relay your info to my LBS Felt dealer tomorrow as I plan on dropping by and giving them an update as to last weekend's experience.

My LBS, per the standard process of elimination, did rule out the more common and easier potential areas of concern and came to a similar conclusion as I, that the noise might be coming from the area of the bottom bracket. The bearings upon cleaning and inspection were re-greased and reinstalled by my LBS, and the noise tended to go away for awhile. Upon recurrence, that is when my LBS contacted Felt, and Felt sent the replacement FSA bearings with special instructions on which Locktite as a filler for gaps, to use upon installation. I am not sure if they use a bearing press for installation, as they have been so busy this Summer, I usually have to drop it off the night before. I will run the bearing press question by them tomorrow when I drop by, and also share your experience with anti-seize.

I will show them the gap which is visible between the bearing outer seal and bottom bracket shell. If they feel that the gap is excessive, I will defer to them on sending the frame back to Felt for inspection. This LBS has been very supportive of me, not just with this particular problem, but with periodic tuneups, installs of accessories, etc.

Again, I really appreciate this Dave, as I have always enjoyed reading through all of your posts, here and elsewhere.

Take care Dave,
-Hallscamp


----------



## Hallscamp

Z4,
I understand how you feel, and according to the threads I have seen here and on other forums, you aren't alone. Mechanics are getting frustrated as well, as I've heard their comments also.

But here is my anology of what you are experiencing, as am I. If your LBS takes the bearings out, cleans, inspects, lubes, and reinstalls them, and the sound temporarily goes away, but comes back, only to be resolved again temporarily by re-lubing, then how could your specific noise be coming from elsewhere on the bike?

I only 'lucked out' by having an independent mechanic inspect the bike while on a century ride, as I had no option, with all the racket the bottom bracket was making. It had gotten so bad, it inherently made it easier to pinpoint the exact source of the noise.

When he showed me how tightly toleranced the outer seal was against the BB shell for most of the circumference, but where the gap occurred in one spot, it dawned on me that what all the forums were saying was true.

The outer bearing seal is rocking back and forth inside the BB shell and that is the source of the noise. FSA is not necessarily the only BB30 with this issue, I have seen slightly other designs with the same type of problem. I think the design concept was good in the beginning, but machining tolerances are not nearly as good nowadays, especially with a supplier for instance which resides in Taiwan producing bearing parts for FSA.

It is what it is. This is what you get when you make these genius decisions to send work offshore to cut costs. Believe me, I am re-experiencing that dilemna every day at Boeing on models such as the 787.

However, my LBS is standing by me, as should yours. If you are diligent and honest with them, they will take care of you or go out of business.

Good luck with your Z4, it is generally a great bike. This in the end is a fairly simple issue to resolve.


----------



## YB1

saw an interview on the Felt stand at Eurobike that mentioned a white paper coming on these new frames. Obviously they are at the leading edge in many areas. I'm curious how much of the wind tunnel work is done with water bottles involved, especially on the AR. Since it's bike that will be ridden most of the time with at least one, and often two "normal" bottles I wondered about that. Especially after seeing a Giant designer talk about how their down tube was designed WITH water bottles attached, which seems to make a lot of sense.

Are we going to get to see the White Paper on the AR and does it talk about the water bottle thing at all?


----------



## Superdave3T

YB1 said:


> saw an interview on the Felt stand at Eurobike that mentioned a white paper coming on these new frames. Obviously they are at the leading edge in many areas. I'm curious how much of the wind tunnel work is done with water bottles involved, especially on the AR. Since it's bike that will be ridden most of the time with at least one, and often two "normal" bottles I wondered about that. Especially after seeing a Giant designer talk about how their down tube was designed WITH water bottles attached, which seems to make a lot of sense.
> 
> Are we going to get to see the White Paper on the AR and does it talk about the water bottle thing at all?


White paper was completed and run through a legal consult to prepare for public distribution. The back to back tests against other models were done without bottles but the development of the downtube/seat tube shapes allowed a net zero when bottles like the Virtue or Elite aero were used. Large round bottles "cost" about 20-55g of drag depending on yaw angle in a -20/0-/20 sweep.

-SD


----------



## knezz

When will the 2013 Felt page return. When I was looking for my Felt Z2. I was able to look at 2011, 2012 and 2013 (this was prior to the 2014 bike debuting). Once the 2014 page appeared the 2013 page is no longer available. Will or when will it be back?


----------



## Superdave3T

Legacy sites will be rehosting shortly.

-SD


----------



## Harley-Dale

I havent had problems accessing:

USA - Felt Bicycles


----------



## loxx0050

I don't know if this was answered or not but when will you have on your updated website the 2014 framesets only listed? I want to know if you will be offering a B series TT/Tri Framset as a standalone option? IA and the 2013 DA's frameset kits are way out of my league (from an ability standpoint and willingness to pay that much for a bicycle). I really like the B series but would like to just get the frameset only and build it up on my own with custom components (I already have some pretty nice racing wheels and rewards points I am accumulating to get a groupset for a very low price out of pocket - but this big name online retailer doesn't deal in very many Felt Bikes at the moment that I am interested in currently). 

Also will you always have a BB30 for bottom bracket standard? I personally prefer Shimano and was wondering if I am stuck with get the BB30 adapter to get those cranks to work.


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, on the 2014 AR5....for DI2, do I select internal or external wiring kit? Looking to upgrade the 105 to Ultegra DI2 and since the bike is not in at the dealer yet, I am not sure which wiring kit to order.

Thank you in advance.

Dennis


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> I don't know if this was answered or not but when will you have on your updated website the 2014 framesets only listed? I want to know if you will be offering a B series TT/Tri Framset as a standalone option? IA and the 2013 DA's frameset kits are way out of my league (from an ability standpoint and willingness to pay that much for a bicycle). I really like the B series but would like to just get the frameset only and build it up on my own with custom components (I already have some pretty nice racing wheels and rewards points I am accumulating to get a groupset for a very low price out of pocket - but this big name online retailer doesn't deal in very many Felt Bikes at the moment that I am interested in currently).
> 
> Also will you always have a BB30 for bottom bracket standard? I personally prefer Shimano and was wondering if I am stuck with get the BB30 adapter to get those cranks to work.


B2 framesets will only be offered for customer service requirements and will not be available for aftermarket sale in the USA. Many dealers offer the option of swapping components to suit your build style or ownership of race wheels or aftermarket handlebars, etc...

There are no online sales of new Felt Bicycles in the USA either so if you're online shopping for the parts, you'll need to find a dealer willing to absorb the components.

The frame uses the BB30 aluminum shell which can be converted to 24mm (instead of 30mm) using a host of adaptors. The *praxis*works adaptors are quite robust and very reliable. There are many others including the FSA versions that are used on some of our OEM bicycles.


----------



## Superdave3T

Harley-Dale said:


> Dave, on the 2014 AR5....for DI2, do I select internal or external wiring kit? Looking to upgrade the 105 to Ultegra DI2 and since the bike is not in at the dealer yet, I am not sure which wiring kit to order.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> Dennis


Dennis,

You can run either internal or external on the AR frames but I highly recommend the internal Di2 with the BTR2 internal battery. I'm not sure which Ultegra Di2 you plan to use (6770 or 6870) but the 11 speed stuff won't be available for months. If you plan to wait we've got an AR2 with the components already installed.

You'll also need the wire lengths to match with the frame size and battery you plan to use.

-SD


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, thank you for the insight! Plan for 10-speed for now, 6770. Although the AR2 sounds intriguing.....hmm.....


----------



## LOW2000

Hey Dave,

Just had a pre-purchase fit session with Jim Manton and he said in addition to the 2014 AR being an amazing bike, the measurements on a 61cm frame are a perfect fit for me. Do I have any hope of getting one prior to next year? My closest dealer is probably Bicycle Warehouse in Temecula, but I'd be willing to drive any distance in SoCal or have it shipped to get one.


----------



## LOW2000

Well I was able to confirm that the ARs in my size are shipping next month, so hopefully I'm at the tip-top of the list in prep for the Long Beach AIDS Ride for charity on Nov 30. I ordered the AR4 to get in on the new 11sp goodness but I was wondering if there was a way to retrofit the AR4 & 5 seatposts with the top tier 3T comfort insert. It looks like either through 3T or through Felt, only the standard DiffLock is sold, not the elastomer insert.

Thanks in advance for bringing an awesome bike to market that is affordable.


----------



## loxx0050

Dave,

I ended up picking up a 2012 Felt B12 on clearance from my local bike shop. Love it so far. I do have an issue with the left side of the Bayonet as the aero bar was stuck/jammed in there when I was adjusting the length. It seems that there is a metal sleeve on the OD of the f-bend bar between it and the ID of the bayonet base bar opening. Well, I finally got it loose after a lot of effort and the metal sleeve pretty much started peeling like a wood pencil in those cheap hand sharpeners that are the size of a starbust or jolly rancher. It took me forever to pick out most of the peeled sheet metal sleeve in there (through the bolt holes for the armrest part) but couldn't get everything (I wish I had a better pair of tweezers with a thinner tip and angled, but I had to make do with a inferior set of tweezers for the job). 

Would this be an Item that would be warrantied? Or because I worked on it myself would that be an issue? It moves more freely now but does have some resistance though and being a new bike I would like it to be tip top. 

Thanks in advance. I still like everything else about the bike but it was frustrating with a new bike having an issue with seized parts.


----------



## Superdave3T

LOW2000 said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> Just had a pre-purchase fit session with Jim Manton and he said in addition to the 2014 AR being an amazing bike, the measurements on a 61cm frame are a perfect fit for me. Do I have any hope of getting one prior to next year? My closest dealer is probably Bicycle Warehouse in Temecula, but I'd be willing to drive any distance in SoCal or have it shipped to get one.


If your dealer ordered it already you should have it before Halloween!

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> Dave,
> 
> I ended up picking up a 2012 Felt B12 on clearance from my local bike shop. Love it so far. I do have an issue with the left side of the Bayonet as the aero bar was stuck/jammed in there when I was adjusting the length. It seems that there is a metal sleeve on the OD of the f-bend bar between it and the ID of the bayonet base bar opening. Well, I finally got it loose after a lot of effort and the metal sleeve pretty much started peeling like a wood pencil in those cheap hand sharpeners that are the size of a starbust or jolly rancher. It took me forever to pick out most of the peeled sheet metal sleeve in there (through the bolt holes for the armrest part) but couldn't get everything (I wish I had a better pair of tweezers with a thinner tip and angled, but I had to make do with a inferior set of tweezers for the job).
> 
> Would this be an Item that would be warrantied? Or because I worked on it myself would that be an issue? It moves more freely now but does have some resistance though and being a new bike I would like it to be tip top.
> 
> Thanks in advance. I still like everything else about the bike but it was frustrating with a new bike having an issue with seized parts.


I'm afraid I don't know what part(s) you are referring to. Can you upload a picture?

-SD


----------



## loxx0050

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I'm afraid I don't know what part(s) you are referring to. Can you upload a picture?
> 
> -SD


Note, this is not my actual bike (since it is at home and I'm in the office right now) but one of the web. Here is a breakdown of that I am referring to:










(If image does work here is the original link)
https://i.imgur.com/inATBxx.jpg


----------



## knezz

*2013 Z2 (with Di2) front wheel noise*

Dave,

I have the 2013 Z2 with Di2. When I ride at speed I hear a clicking sound at the front wheel. I'm thining it is the inner tube's stem as it is not threaded. I'm thinking wind is bouncing it around. Is this a know issue with these time of stems? Are there any suggestions you could lend.

I purchased the bike out of state (5 1/2hour ride away) therefore no chance of me getting it to that shop. Prior to spending money taking it to a local shop I wanted to know if you have heard of this. 

Assuming I'm correct about the stem I will change the tube.


----------



## Superdave3T

knezz said:


> Dave,
> 
> I have the 2013 Z2 with Di2. When I ride at speed I hear a clicking sound at the front wheel. I'm thining it is the inner tube's stem as it is not threaded. I'm thinking wind is bouncing it around. Is this a know issue with these time of stems? Are there any suggestions you could lend.
> 
> I purchased the bike out of state (5 1/2hour ride away) therefore no chance of me getting it to that shop. Prior to spending money taking it to a local shop I wanted to know if you have heard of this.
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming I'm correct about the stem I will change the tube.



Shimano used to supply two little round stickers with holes in them. They were designed to slip over the outside of the stem and adhere to the rim keeping the stem from rattling. I'd tape the valve before swapping the tube. We used Kenda Ultra-lite inner tubes that model year which as you've discovered are not threaded.

-SD


----------



## LOW2000

Any word on if the elastomer insert in the AR FRD/AR2 seat post is able to be installed in an AR4 seat post? If so, where can it be ordered? I don't see anything on either the 3T or the Felt side.

Thanks again Dave!


----------



## Superdave3T

There isn't a sleeve inside the base bar, I'm afraid I'm still a bit lost as to what could be the problem or how the extension became "siezed" in the base bar.

Your local dealer will be needed for warranty claims, we cannot process them consumer-direct in the USA.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

LOW2000 said:


> Any word on if the elastomer insert in the AR FRD/AR2 seat post is able to be installed in an AR4 seat post? If so, where can it be ordered? I don't see anything on either the 3T or the Felt side.
> 
> Thanks again Dave!


The 3T seatpost will be coming as an aftermarket item just as soon as we can get production volumes finished and equipped for OEM on the AR1, AR2, AR3E & AR3R. I'd expect we'll need another 4 months before you'll see them available in our aftermarket catalog. 3T will not be selling these Felt-patented seatposts

-SD


----------



## JimP

SD, is it possible to buy a 100mm 2013 Felt Superlite stem that came on the F3?


----------



## jhsjhs

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The 3T seatpost will be coming as an aftermarket item just as soon as we can get production volumes finished and equipped for OEM on the AR1, AR2, AR3E & AR3R. I'd expect we'll need another 4 months before you'll see them available in our aftermarket catalog. 3T will not be selling these Felt-patented seatposts
> 
> -SD


Any idea what this might go for? Thanks. In the market for an ar and comparing models.


----------



## Superdave3T

jhsjhs said:


> Any idea what this might go for? Thanks. In the market for an ar and comparing models.


It will come with the AR1, AR2, AR3 models as OEM. I don't know the retail price yet, probably around $250 aftermarket, similar to the 3T post w/o this technology. 

There is no comparable model in the industry today which makes shopping for the AR quite easy, no?

Which other aero road bikes were you lumping in with the AR?

-SD


----------



## jhsjhs

SuperdaveFelt said:


> It will come with the AR1, AR2, AR3 models as OEM. I don't know the retail price yet, probably around $250 aftermarket, similar to the 3T post w/o this technology.
> 
> There is no comparable model in the industry today which makes shopping for the AR quite easy, no?
> 
> Which other aero road bikes were you lumping in with the AR?
> 
> -SD


None, really. I am leaning towards a Felt (due to Felt's reputation and the local store's that sells them), and am getting a fitting in a week or so. I had decided on a z if the fitting goes as I expect, but the new AR looks pretty amazing. I would never have considered an aero bike due to comfort concerns--the remind me too much of the big tubed aluminum bikes we all raced in the late 80's. If you could make it comfortable enough, though, it could be a great bike for getting back into centuries and triathlons, as I am just starting. I suspect the AR3 is out of my price range, but the seat post is interesting. Thanks for the response, by the way.


----------



## jhsjhs

Hi,

If I could ask another 2014 AR/Z question...

Am I right in thinking that the differences between the AR 4 and AR 5, and Z3 and Z5 are the groups (Ultegra vs. 105) and wheels? That the rest: frame, fork, bars, stem, saddle, seat post are the same? Many of these change going from the AR3 to 4, and Z 2 to 3.

Thanks!


----------



## Harley-Dale

JHS, not to speak for Dave, but my read of the specs on the Felt site indicates what you ask is correct. The AR4 and AR5 use the same frame and fork, seat post, bar/stem and saddle.

I'm waiting for my LBS to get some in late this month. I'm buying an AR5 and plan to maybe upgrade it later, or swap it for a B14 at some point if my tri performance would benefit from it. lol

Regardless, I am really looking forward to the new AR.


----------



## jhsjhs

Harley-Dale said:


> JHS, not to speak for Dave, but my read of the specs on the Felt site indicates what you ask is correct. The AR4 and AR5 use the same frame and fork, seat post, bar/stem and saddle.
> 
> I'm waiting for my LBS to get some in late this month. I'm buying an AR5 and plan to maybe upgrade it later, or swap it for a B14 at some point if my tri performance would benefit from it. lol
> 
> Regardless, I am really looking forward to the new AR.


The AR5 looks to be an amazing deal. If I could pick and choose I would probably be interested in the AR 1 frame set with mechanical ultegra parts and the rest of the stuff that is on the AR4/5, but I imagine going that route would be much more expensive. If i decide on the AR I will probably do the same as you.


----------



## Superdave3T

jhsjhs said:


> Hi,
> 
> If I could ask another 2014 AR/Z question...
> 
> Am I right in thinking that the differences between the AR 4 and AR 5, and Z3 and Z5 are the groups (Ultegra vs. 105) and wheels? That the rest: frame, fork, bars, stem, saddle, seat post are the same? Many of these change going from the AR3 to 4, and Z 2 to 3.
> 
> Thanks!


AR4 and AR5 have the same frame, fork, seatpost, headset, stem, bars, BB, saddle, and convertible cable routing features. 

The Z3 and Z5 are are a bit different as the forks use a different material and construction method.

Z3 and Z4 are the in terms of the frameset although the white painted finish adds a few more grams vs. the clear coat used on the Z4.

-SD


----------



## SummerSux

Hey Dave have a S32 Tribike question. My local shop has 2012 S22 on sale for $1400 with SRAM APEX specs, but I see the 2014 S32 retails at $1199 with 105 specs as well. I'm all for trickle down and cheaper prices but what gives? and are there any frame differences between the 2 bikes?
Thanks


----------



## Rainer

Any update? Once again, I'm getting the same knocking from my BB on my 2013 Z85. Going to bring it in to my LBS this week. This will be the 4th or 5th time it's gone in for the same exact problem. They've replaced the bearings and regreased everything each prior trip, which takes care of the knocking/clicking for about 2-3 months, but the noise just keeps coming back. I've e-mailed Felt asking for advice, but never receive any response. Even PM'ed SuperDave, but also didn't get a response. I get the sense the LBS no longer wants to keep doing this for free, and I can't see paying for this "service" every few months for as long as I have the bike (shop quoted $150-200 for a BB tear down, cleaning, new bearings, rebuild). Really frustrating first bike ownership experience. Apart from selling the bike and buying something else, anyone have any suggestions on a more permanent fix? Anyway to get away from the BB30? My wife has a 2011 Z85 (different BB) and has never had any problems. Thanks!



Hallscamp said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have been having a certain issue with the BB30 on my 2013 Felt Z85. Here is the history:
> 
> I have been experiencing a clicking or ticking noise in the area of the bottom bracket of your Z85 almost from the very time I bought it.
> 
> My LBS, has been pulling the bearings, cleaning, inspecting, not seeing anything, greasing and putting back together. The noise goes away, but only temporarily.
> 
> My LBS got ahold of Felt Support, and Felt sent a new bearing with instructions on a particular Locktite to use when installing. The Locktite used is more of a filler than it is an adhesive. This was a couple of weeks ago. </SPAN>
> 
> I took the Z85 on my first Century last weekend. About halfway into the ride, the noise came back and got very loud by the time I could get to a mechanic. The mechanic inspected the bearing and noticed a significant gap in one spot between the bearing outer seal and the BB shell. His opinion was that the BB shell where the bearing fits in, is not perfectly round, but is slightly elongated. He greased it up, put it back together and the BB was quiet for the rest of the ride.</SPAN>
> I am quite certain the noise is going to come back again. I plan on visiting my LBS this week regarding the issue again. But, I thought I would run this by you and see if you have had some history with this particular problem. I’m not sure if my LBS has exhausted their efforts and is running out of options without more support from Felt on this matter.</SPAN>
> 
> Appreciate it Dave,</SPAN>
> -Hallscamp</SPAN>


----------



## Superdave3T

Rainer said:


> Any update? Once again, I'm getting the same knocking from my BB on my 2013 Z85. Going to bring it in to my LBS this week. This will be the 4th or 5th time it's gone in for the same exact problem. They've replaced the bearings and regreased everything each prior trip, which takes care of the knocking/clicking for about 2-3 months, but the noise just keeps coming back. I've e-mailed Felt asking for advice, but never receive any response. Even PM'ed SuperDave, but also didn't get a response. I get the sense the LBS no longer wants to keep doing this for free, and I can't see paying for this "service" every few months for as long as I have the bike (shop quoted $150-200 for a BB tear down, cleaning, new bearings, rebuild). Really frustrating first bike ownership experience. Apart from selling the bike and buying something else, anyone have any suggestions on a more permanent fix? Anyway to get away from the BB30? My wife has a 2011 Z85 (different BB) and has never had any problems. Thanks!


I don't recall getting your PM and I don't see it in my inbox. I would suggest anti-sieze rather than grease for the contact surfaces.

-Dave


----------



## Rainer

Strange. The PM shows up in my "sent" folder, but in any case, I've resent it. Hopefully you receive this copy.

Apart from suggesting the shop use anti-seize (any specific brand?) in place of grease, any other specific recommendations? Could the several cases I've read about knocking/clicking from the BB (both generally for BB30 and specifically for '13 Z85s) simply be cases of having failed to use anti-seize? 

Visits to my not-so-local bike shop (nearest Felt dealer is a multi-hour round-trip drive) for the same issue every couple of months is beyond frustrating... Would love to get this problem resolved. Any help Felt can offer is most appreciated.



SuperdaveFelt said:


> I don't recall getting your PM and I don't see it in my inbox. I would suggest anti-sieze rather than grease for the contact surfaces.
> 
> -Dave


----------



## gskalt

wpcouch said:


> Have a tech question regarding your Felt? Not sure if a certain part will be compatible? Just have a general question about your bike or Felt?
> 
> Here's your chance to get answers from the source! Ask away!


i currently ride the Z85 (love it!!) and am looking to improve my performance next season in triathlons. would you recommend getting aero bars and adjust the fitting for the bike? 

i do have my eyes on the S32, but finances may not allow for right now.

thanks,
Greg


----------



## zigmeister

Availability of the AR FRD frameset?


----------



## loxx0050

Dave,

I am finding I can't get comfortable with the f-bend aero bar extension shape on my B12 due to the unnatural way it makes my wrists twist at the end of the bars. Besides cutting them off at the second bend (which I am not sure if it will be comfortable enough or long enough for me if I do) what aero bar extensions fit the stock bayonet system and the Metron TT shifter? I assume the Vision/FSA bars will but I am not seeing anything offered by them for the aero bars only (they seem to package deals with the base bar or just the clip on aero bars). Will the 3T extensions only work? 

Trying out an aluminum one is not too expensive before I drop the extra cash on Carbon (if I feel like spending extra money to save a few grams). I am used to the J or Ski Bend bars with my last set of clip-on Profile Design bars that I used to use with my road bike. Which was very comfortable on my arms/wrist. 

Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> Dave,
> 
> I am finding I can't get comfortable with the f-bend aero bar extension shape on my B12 due to the unnatural way it makes my wrists twist at the end of the bars. Besides cutting them off at the second bend (which I am not sure if it will be comfortable enough or long enough for me if I do) what aero bar extensions fit the stock bayonet system and the Metron TT shifter? I assume the Vision/FSA bars will but I am not seeing anything offered by them for the aero bars only (they seem to package deals with the base bar or just the clip on aero bars). Will the 3T extensions only work?
> 
> Trying out an aluminum one is not too expensive before I drop the extra cash on Carbon (if I feel like spending extra money to save a few grams). I am used to the J or Ski Bend bars with my last set of clip-on Profile Design bars that I used to use with my road bike. Which was very comfortable on my arms/wrist.
> 
> Thanks.


The F-bend is designed so the first 45mm can be trimmed from the end of the bar and achieve a J-bend fit. Try this first. You can also rotate the bar outward slightly.

The F-bend positions your hand in the most aerodynamic way.


-Dave


----------



## Rainer

Bump. Would love to hear back from you, Dave. Thanks.



Rainer said:


> Strange. The PM shows up in my "sent" folder, but in any case, I've resent it. Hopefully you receive this copy.
> 
> Apart from suggesting the shop use anti-seize (any specific brand?) in place of grease, any other specific recommendations? Could the several cases I've read about knocking/clicking from the BB (both generally for BB30 and specifically for '13 Z85s) simply be cases of having failed to use anti-seize?
> 
> Visits to my not-so-local bike shop (nearest Felt dealer is a multi-hour round-trip drive) for the same issue every couple of months is beyond frustrating... Would love to get this problem resolved. Any help Felt can offer is most appreciated.


----------



## joe4702

Hi SD,

Would you be able to look up the exact headset cartridge bearing size for a 2009 Z35?

I know it's 41mm OD x 30mm ID, but I would like to know if it's a 45x45degree or 36x45 degree (inside angle/outside angle). 

The cone spacer is marked Cane Creek and I recently replace the OEM bearings with a standard Cane Creek 41mm 36x45 bearing and now have some headset play I can't seem to get rid of.

Like an idiot, I discarded the OEM bearings but believe the only marking was MH-P03, which is apparently a 45x45 bearing.

If the new bearings are the wrong inside angle, could that be causing the play?

Any info appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

ETA: After posting this, I realized it may not be practical for a manufacturer to maintain detailed parts information about every older model. But any info about the 2009 Z35 headset that might help me identify the correct bearing size would be appreciated.


----------



## Superdave3T

joe4702 said:


> Hi SD,
> 
> Would you be able to look up the exact headset cartridge bearing size for a 2009 Z35?
> 
> I know it's 41mm OD x 30mm ID, but I would like to know if it's a 45x45degree or 36x45 degree (inside angle/outside angle).
> 
> The cone spacer is marked Cane Creek and I recently replace the OEM bearings with a standard Cane Creek 41mm 36x45 bearing and now have some headset play I can't seem to get rid of.
> 
> Like an idiot, I discarded the OEM bearings but believe the only marking was MH-P03, which is apparently a 45x45 bearing.
> 
> If the new bearings are the wrong inside angle, could that be causing the play?
> 
> Any info appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe
> 
> ETA: After posting this, I realized it may not be practical for a manufacturer to maintain detailed parts information about every older model. But any info about the 2009 Z35 headset that might help me identify the correct bearing size would be appreciated.


Cane Creek IS2 standard, 36/45, make sure you swap not just the bearings but the fork crown race, compression ring and headset top cover. Be sure there is at least 0.4mm gap between the headset top cap and the frame head tube.

-SD


----------



## joe4702

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Cane Creek IS2 standard, 36/45, make sure you swap not just the bearings but the fork crown race, compression ring and headset top cover. Be sure there is at least 0.4mm gap between the headset top cap and the frame head tube.
> 
> -SD


-DELETE-

ETA: The Z35 OEM headset is a VP Products VP-A61ACK, using tech licensed from Cane Creek. The VP website says the bearings are MH-P03M, but that designation only shows up on the VP website. Bearing sellers list MH-P03 (45/45) or MH-P03K, (36/45) bearings, but no MH-P03M. I'm guessing 36/45 is correct, which is what I have in there so not really sure where the play came from. Bike has about 12,000 miles on it. Figured it couldn't hurt to replace the bearings, but I guess I was wrong.

Anyway, looks like any Cane Creek IS headset should work, so I went ahead and ordered an IS 110. Probably overkill, but I like fine mechanical things and the 110 looks like a nice piece of kit.

FINAL EDIT: The Cane Creek 110 fit fine and there is no noise or play after several hundred miles. Not sure why replacing the bearings on the OEM headset caused problems. I'd guess some small incompatibility between the CC bearings and VP headset.


----------



## Superdave3T

Don4 said:


> Hey Superdave!
> 
> Any thoughts on offering the Campy EPS on a Felt in the future? It's nice to see Campagnolo on the F4130 -Athena. Also nice to see a steel offering from Felt.
> 
> BTW, still love my 2011 F3!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -- Don




Done! 2014 AR3 EPS.

-SD


----------



## Don4

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Done! 2014 AR3 EPS.
> 
> -SD


BAM! Nice choice!


----------



## Timmit

Hi SuperDave,

I'm a long time lurker, but first time poster. i love the accessibility you provide to Felt.
I'm a proud owner of a 2011 AR4 and have absolutely loved it. Unfortunately i was in an accident that resulted in significant damage to the NDS chainstay and to the Fork. Luescher Teknik here in Melbourne assessed the damage on behalf of my insurance and reported the following:

Fork - Delamination at steerer open end 22mm wide x 10mm at front face, caused by stem impact. Grade 3.

Frame - Crack/delamination in the NDS CS 65mm long x 50mm around the tube at the outer, upper and inner faces 85mm from the DO. Grade 4

As such, the insurance company is offering to repair. 
Do you think i have a valid argument for a frame replacement instead of repair?


----------



## Superdave3T

Timmit said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> I'm a long time lurker, but first time poster. i love the accessibility you provide to Felt.
> I'm a proud owner of a 2011 AR4 and have absolutely loved it. Unfortunately i was in an accident that resulted in significant damage to the NDS chainstay and to the Fork. Luescher Teknik here in Melbourne assessed the damage on behalf of my insurance and reported the following:
> 
> Fork - Delamination at steerer open end 22mm wide x 10mm at front face, caused by stem impact. Grade 3.
> 
> Frame - Crack/delamination in the NDS CS 65mm long x 50mm around the tube at the outer, upper and inner faces 85mm from the DO. Grade 4
> 
> As such, the insurance company is offering to repair.
> Do you think i have a valid argument for a frame replacement instead of repair?


The frames are designed to withstand a tremendous amount of energy absorption with 500kg-f loads use to examine imapct stress. If you've had a frame failure from a crash I would be very worried about repairing the frame.

If it were a helicopter, would you get back in it and fly after being repaired? 

-SD


----------



## Timmit

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The frames are designed to withstand a tremendous amount of energy absorption with 500kg-f loads use to examine imapct stress. If you've had a frame failure from a crash I would be very worried about repairing the frame.
> 
> If it were a helicopter, would you get back in it and fly after being repaired?
> 
> -SD


Thanks SD,

That's exactly how I feel, but how do i argue against the insurance company when they are following advice from a carbon bicycle repair specialist? Is there any documentation from FELT that i could use to support my argument?

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## Superdave3T

Timmit said:


> Thanks SD,
> 
> That's exactly how I feel, but how do i argue against the insurance company when they are following advice from a carbon bicycle repair specialist? Is there any documentation from FELT that i could use to support my argument?
> 
> Cheers,
> Tim


There is no way a blanket statement can be created with every possible scenario. The USA is far more litigious than most other countries so the insurance companies are far less willing to take this type of risk.

-SD


----------



## jhsjhs

Hi SD,

If you don't mind, I have a few questions following up a bike fitting. I got fit yesterday at a local dealer that specializes in Felt. This is the first time I have looked at new bikes in over a decade, and my racing days are a quarter century behind me--everything has changed. For some reason I figured I would wind up in the "Z" range, possible "AR", probably because what I wanted was a pretty generalist road bike, with goals of doing centuries and possibly getting back into triathlons (no desire for tri bike now), not riding crits (never really liked them). Wrong--turns out long arms/long torso=long reach (new term to me), which in Felt world means F series, AR possibly, but a stretch. Looking into F series bikes, their focus seems more towards stiffness/light weight, and the only criticisms I can find are that they may tend toward harsh rides. Were I to go this route, is there something I can do around seatpost/etc. to improve comfort? 

Also, can you give me a link or quick summary of the differences in the framesets between the F2 and F4? I assume the main price difference is mechanical vs. electronic Ultegra, but the carbon seems different and I haven't been able to find much on this. 

Purely out of curiosity, what happened to F1 and F3? Interesting that the numbers are skipped.

Thanks!


----------



## LOW2000

Hey Dave, do you have any pictures you can share of the AR being tested with the Specialized Virtue and the Elite Crono CX bottles?

I'm trying to make a choice between 21oz and $50 for the virtue, or 32oz and $160 for two of the Elite CX bottles since you have previously mentioned both setups had a zero drag penalty.


----------



## NorCal FNG

Will 28mm tires fit my 2013 Z4?

thanks

dave


----------



## vineland

Is the quality of carbon-fiber different between the Z5, Z4, etc etc? If so, where does the F5 sit?

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

NorCal FNG said:


> Will 28mm tires fit my 2013 Z4?
> 
> thanks
> 
> dave


Yes. We design the bike with 6mm of clearance with 25mm tires. You should be able to fit 28mm tires with ~3mm of clearance. Under high torque low rpm efforts it may be possible for some combinations of wheel/tire to rub the frame slightly. If this occurs, downsize the tires.


-Dave


----------



## NorCal FNG

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes. We design the bike with 6mm of clearance with 25mm tires. You should be able to fit 28mm tires with ~3mm of clearance. Under high torque low rpm efforts it may be possible for some combinations of wheel/tire to rub the frame slightly. If this occurs, downsize the tires.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply Dave. The Z should be a super plush ride on 28s.
> 
> Really love my Z4 keep up the good work at felt.


----------



## GT8

Hi Dave,

Been riding and upgrading my 2011 F5 for a couple of years now and love it - light, tight and fast  Was particularly brilliant in the Alps during the summer - very comfortable and nippy on the climbs and absolutely rock solid screaming down the other side!

Just bought myself a new F1 2013 frameset and have a couple of questions please:

*1.* When I fit the BB30 bearings in the carbon shell should I use any grease around the edge of the bearing if so is Campagnolo LB 100 white grease ok?

*2*. Can I use the seat post collar from my F5 instead of the double one that comes with the F1?

*3. *I'll be using a mechanical groupset - do I just pull out the blue "straws" running through the frame when building? 

Thanks for your time


----------



## tigerleghorn

Hi guys, new poster from the UK here in need of help.

I'm looking to buy some carbon drop bars from the Felt Euro web site. Two are offered at the same price and look identical. The specs are vague so can anyone tell me the difference between 1.1 and 1.2 Carbon road bar?

I'm adding a 2014 F4 to my stable in the new year and want to swap out the 400gr bars shipped with the bike for the 200grm carbon ones.


----------



## Hallscamp

Here are the replies I sent directly to 'Ranier':

_I was able to get my LBS to ship the Z85 frame back to Felt for inspection. Felt replaced the frame, shipping it back to my LBS.

I haven't ridden it yet, but the BB shell was out of tolerance, too large an inside diameter for the bearing.

I was only charged shipping, about $65.</SPAN>_
_Another update:</SPAN>_
Felt shipped back a NEW model Z85 frame to my LBS. My original was a 2013 black with Red accents all over the frame. My new frame is black with White lettering and accents. It has supposedly been slightly upgraded. I have ridden it twice, 16 miles each ride, and it was extemely quiet. The frame seemed extremely responsive to pedaling input and steering. My ride felt like I was in direct sensation of all the imperfections in the pavement, which I like. It felt like I was really in control on both my rides. I think I was 600 - 800 miles into my original frame before I started hearing all the noise from the BB, so I am not certain we have solved my problem, but so far, so good!!</SPAN>


----------



## Hallscamp

chudak,
My latest updates in case you have not yet seem them:

_I was able to get my LBS to ship the Z85 frame back to Felt for inspection. Felt replaced the frame, shipping it back to my LBS.

I haven't ridden it yet, but the BB shell was out of tolerance, too large an inside diameter for the bearing.

I was only charged shipping, about $65.</SPAN>_
_Another update:</SPAN>_
Felt shipped back a NEW model Z85 frame to my LBS. My original was a 2013 black with Red accents all over the frame. My new frame is black with White lettering and accents. It has supposedly been slightly upgraded. I have ridden it twice, 16 miles each ride, and it was extemely quiet. The frame seemed extremely responsive to pedaling input and steering. My ride felt like I was in direct sensation of all the imperfections in the pavement, which I like. It felt like I was really in control on both my rides. I think I was 600 - 800 miles into my original frame before I started hearing all the noise from the BB, so I am not certain we have solved my problem, but so far, so good!!</SPAN>


----------



## Hallscamp

Sorry Ranier, thought I had replied to you:
_I was able to get my LBS to ship the Z85 frame back to Felt for inspection. Felt replaced the frame, shipping it back to my LBS.

I haven't ridden it yet, but the BB shell was out of tolerance, too large an inside diameter for the bearing.

I was only charged shipping, about $65.</SPAN>_
_Another update:</SPAN>_
Felt shipped back a NEW model Z85 frame to my LBS. My original was a 2013 black with Red accents all over the frame. My new frame is black with White lettering and accents. It has supposedly been slightly upgraded. I have ridden it twice, 16 miles each ride, and it was extemely quiet. The frame seemed extremely responsive to pedaling input and steering. My ride felt like I was in direct sensation of all the imperfections in the pavement, which I like. It felt like I was really in control on both my rides. I think I was 600 - 800 miles into my original frame before I started hearing all the noise from the BB, so I am not certain we have solved my problem, but so far, so good!!</SPAN>


----------



## Hallscamp

Hi Dave, and update and question:
_I was able to get my LBS to ship the Z85 frame back to Felt for inspection. Felt replaced the frame, shipping it back to my LBS.

_Felt shipped back a NEW model ZA(?) frame to my LBS. My original was a 2013 black with Red accents all over the frame. My new frame is black with White lettering and accents. It has supposedly been slightly upgraded. I have ridden it twice, 16 miles each ride, and it was extemely quiet. The frame seemed extremely responsive to pedaling input and steering. My ride felt like I was in direct sensation of all the imperfections in the pavement, which I like. It felt like I was really in control on both my rides. I think I was 600 - 800 miles into my original frame before I started hearing all the noise from the BB, so I am not certain we have solved my problem, but so far, so good!!


My question Dave is, what is the difference between last year's (2013) Z85 model, and this year's 2014 (ZA)? the geometry appears identical to me but I don't have the two models side by side, so it's difficult for me to ascertain. The ride quality seems better to me, but I was two months without a bike so I can't be certain.


Appreciate it Dave, 

-Hallscamp</SPAN>


----------



## Timmit

Hi Dave,

Are there any differences between the 2014 AR4 and AR5 frames / forks?

cheers.


----------



## tystevens

SuperDave,

Thanks for your participation on this site -- very much appreciated. I am looking for a new bike, and think I have narrowed it down to 2 -- a '13 Z4 and a '14 Z5. As it happens, they are only $50 apart in price. I cannot find a detailed spec list for the '13 model, but I'm trying to figure out which will be the better bike for me.

It looks like in most respects the '13 z4 and '14 z5 are similar in spec -- 105 components, same wheels, same bb, etc. The only difference I can tell is the '13 has a 12-30 cassette, while the '14 has an 11-32, which I like slightly better. But I like the color on the '13 slightly better.

Are there any material differences in spec that I'm missing between the 2? Also, should the '13 be able to run a 11-32 cassette if I want to go with that one? We have a lot of mountains and long canyons here in Utah, so I would like that extra gear if possible.


----------



## Superdave3T

Hallscamp said:


> Hi Dave, and update and question:
> _I was able to get my LBS to ship the Z85 frame back to Felt for inspection. Felt replaced the frame, shipping it back to my LBS.
> 
> _Felt shipped back a NEW model ZA(?) frame to my LBS. My original was a 2013 black with Red accents all over the frame. My new frame is black with White lettering and accents. It has supposedly been slightly upgraded. I have ridden it twice, 16 miles each ride, and it was extemely quiet. The frame seemed extremely responsive to pedaling input and steering. My ride felt like I was in direct sensation of all the imperfections in the pavement, which I like. It felt like I was really in control on both my rides. I think I was 600 - 800 miles into my original frame before I started hearing all the noise from the BB, so I am not certain we have solved my problem, but so far, so good!!
> 
> 
> My question Dave is, what is the difference between last year's (2013) Z85 model, and this year's 2014 (ZA)? the geometry appears identical to me but I don't have the two models side by side, so it's difficult for me to ascertain. The ride quality seems better to me, but I was two months without a bike so I can't be certain.
> 
> 
> Appreciate it Dave,
> 
> -Hallscamp</SPAN>


The ZA uses a hydroformed seat tube and butted seat stays.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Timmit said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Are there any differences between the 2014 AR4 and AR5 frames / forks?
> 
> cheers.


The frame materials are the same, the AR5 is a few grams lighter because of the actual weight of the cosmetic finish used.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

tystevens said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> Thanks for your participation on this site -- very much appreciated. I am looking for a new bike, and think I have narrowed it down to 2 -- a '13 Z4 and a '14 Z5. As it happens, they are only $50 apart in price. I cannot find a detailed spec list for the '13 model, but I'm trying to figure out which will be the better bike for me.
> 
> It looks like in most respects the '13 z4 and '14 z5 are similar in spec -- 105 components, same wheels, same bb, etc. The only difference I can tell is the '13 has a 12-30 cassette, while the '14 has an 11-32, which I like slightly better. But I like the color on the '13 slightly better.
> 
> Are there any material differences in spec that I'm missing between the 2? Also, should the '13 be able to run a 11-32 cassette if I want to go with that one? We have a lot of mountains and long canyons here in Utah, so I would like that extra gear if possible.


Buy the 2013 Z4, it is a better frameset. Ask the shop for a swap to 11-32t where you purchase it, or wear out the 12-30t and update the range later. The difference between the 30t and the 32t is small. You may do many rides without ever riding in the 11 or the 32t but it is likely you'll use the 18t every time you get on the bike.

-SD


----------



## tystevens

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Buy the 2013 Z4, it is a better frameset. Ask the shop for a swap to 11-32t where you purchase it, or wear out the 12-30t and update the range later. The difference between the 30t and the 32t is small. You may do many rides without ever riding in the 11 or the 32t but it is likely you'll use the 18t every time you get on the bike.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave!


----------



## Rainer

Is that any different than what he had on his '13 Z85? Same exact frame and fork?

Also, is there somewhere on the Felt website where we can read more about the ZA frame? I'm also getting one as a replacement; just like Hallscamp, my '13 Z85 also was determined to have a defective BB...



SuperdaveFelt said:


> The ZA uses a hydroformed seat tube and butted seat stays.
> 
> -SD


----------



## bleckb

*FSA bottom bracket and crank fit*

Quick question that I haven't found an answer to:

I'm building what I think is a 2008 F4. I took my FSA SLK crank from my old bike, bought a new FSA bottom bracket, but when I went to install the crank, there was considerable play. I noticed that there was somewhere between 2 and 4 mm (I'm guessing, but I"m probably close) between the inside of the crank and the bottom bracket. I didn't have this concern earlier, so I"m guessing the BB shell is about that much narrower than my old Look KG381. I'm guessing washers between the bottom bracket and the shell are the answer? Hoping for clarification so I don't do anything stupid. 

Thanks,


----------



## Superdave3T

bleckb said:


> Quick question that I haven't found an answer to:
> 
> I'm building what I think is a 2008 F4. I took my FSA SLK crank from my old bike, bought a new FSA bottom bracket, but when I went to install the crank, there was considerable play. I noticed that there was somewhere between 2 and 4 mm (I'm guessing, but I"m probably close) between the inside of the crank and the bottom bracket. I didn't have this concern earlier, so I"m guessing the BB shell is about that much narrower than my old Look KG381. I'm guessing washers between the bottom bracket and the shell are the answer? Hoping for clarification so I don't do anything stupid.
> 
> Thanks,


FSA has two bottom brackets for MegaExo. We use a standard 68mm threaded shell, just like Look but I think you've ended up with the wrong BB. The BB used for aluminum cranks is slightly different than the one required for carbon cranks IIRC. Check the FSA website or contact them for advice.

Kind Regards,
SD


----------



## bleckb

Thanks for the response. FSA doesn't make it easy to figure out what is what, like having a model number stamped somewhere on the part. Looking at the two BBs placed side-by-side, I see that the old one is just a smidge taller/wider, and when the old one is one the bike, the crank fits just fine. The difference is in the thickness/depth of the cups. Now, I just have to figure out how to ask for the right one.


----------



## LOW2000

Any advice on my water bottle question for the new AR4 on the previous page?


----------



## tystevens

tystevens said:


> Thanks Dave!


Well, I picked up the '13 Z4 last Thursday, and put 85 miles on it since then. Great bike! Rides like a dream, comfortable and not a second slower than my old bike w/ more racing-type geometry. Lovin' it to death!

View attachment 288766


----------



## Pommierogue

Hi,

UK customer here interested in buying a Felt Z4, however I am unsure which size to go for?? Can anyone offer any help, my measurements can be found below.

Height: 178cm
Inseam: 86.5cm
Ape: +2cm

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

Pommierogue said:


> Hi,
> 
> UK customer here interested in buying a Felt Z4, however I am unsure which size to go for?? Can anyone offer any help, my measurements can be found below.
> 
> Height: 178cm
> Inseam: 86.5cm
> Ape: +2cm
> 
> Thanks


54cm.

-SD


----------



## commfire

Is the custom color option on frame sets gone in 2014?


----------



## Superdave3T

commfire said:


> Is the custom color option on frame sets gone in 2014?


We've moved some production around and we'll need to start the process over with a new factory. The program is suspended for 2014.

-Dave


----------



## LOW2000

What are the two small metal squares with a bit of adhesive backing on them for that came with my new AR? The dealer didn't know what to do with them either.


----------



## Superdave3T

LOW2000 said:


> What are the two small metal squares with a bit of adhesive backing on them for that came with my new AR? The dealer didn't know what to do with them either.


This small plate is provided by Shimano to provide support for the front derailleur set screw mount. Shimano added this to the new Dura-Ace 9000 and Ultegra 6800 mechanical front derailleurs to provide additional support for the higher leverage of their new derailleur design.

https://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/Di2_035.jpg
https://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/086/156ph1_MPreview.jpg
https://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/086/155ph21_MPreview.jpg

Our front derailleur hanger is designed so it is not needed with most gear combinations. The hanger itself provides the support for the screw. If it isn't used on carbon frames the set screw can damage the carbon.

You just got a 2014, right? For the love of God please post photos!


----------



## tigerleghorn

Hi SD,

I'm bursting to hit the button on a 2014 F4 here in the UK. I already own two Felts and love the quality and the brand.
My LBS doesn't have 2014 stocks as yet and Saddleback (UK distributors) are as much use as a chocolate coffee pot when it comes to responding to emails.

Any idea when stocks will be fully available in the UK?


----------



## loxx0050

Hey SD,

I just recently purchased a set of Rotor QXL rings with a 110BCD to go on the stock Vistion Trimax TT Cranset (from a 2012). They do not fit as the largest or widest section scrapes badly against the swingarm and it will pretty much destroy that part of the frame like that. Do you know if they are supposed to fit? Would the standard Q-Rings fit (Aero version)?

Ok, I am now seeing there are BB spacers and which size do you recommend? I tried an impromptu spacing using a 2.5mm allen and there is now plenty of clearance. But would that be sufficient or too much? Would stacking two 1mm be ok?

TIA


----------



## jurcsi

I also had a chain suck on my F5 earlier this year, but admittedly (as realized later) my chain was already over its best days, and I also changed gears at the same time front and rear.
luckily it did not so much damage, i replaced the plate as well, and also put on one of this: http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product...ies & Spares&gclid=CPSo_J-A9roCFWgG4god6wkANQ
it does the job, and is about 10g


----------



## loxx0050

jurcsi said:


> I also had a chain suck on my F5 earlier this year, but admittedly (as realized later) my chain was already over its best days, and I also changed gears at the same time front and rear.
> luckily it did not so much damage, i replaced the plate as well, and also put on one of this:
> it does the job, and is about 10g


There is no link, what model/product are you referring to? 

I just ordered a 1.8mm and a 2.5mm spacer (Wheels Manufacturing brand) as they are the only ones I could find so far (that wasn't in a 10 pack that I don't need) and qualified for Amazon Prime shipping so I could get it by Friday. (only the 2.5mm shipped though and I don't know when the 1.8mm will). They look like they will work well enough.


----------



## expatbrit

In line with my thread below about the F1X, I noticed that the Felt WWW site now has a 63cm, Carbon only line for many of the CX bikes. It's still listed as only up to 60cm frames though. I've contacted my local dealer, but haven't heard back -- are there really 63cms?!


----------



## Superdave3T

expatbrit said:


> In line with my thread below about the F1X, I noticed that the Felt WWW site now has a 63cm, Carbon only line for many of the CX bikes. It's still listed as only up to 60cm frames though. I've contacted my local dealer, but haven't heard back -- are there really 63cms?!


There are two 63cm F1x frames left on the planet. We won't have any complete bikes or further inventory. Have your dealer contact our dealer support team to see if they can be released for retail sale, they are in inventory for potential customer service claims of F1x frames in that size sold in the past.

-SD


----------



## expatbrit

SuperdaveFelt said:


> There are two 63cm F1x frames left on the planet. We won't have any complete bikes or further inventory. Have your dealer contact our dealer support team to see if they can be released for retail sale, they are in inventory for potential customer service claims of F1x frames in that size sold in the past.
> 
> -SD


Dave, thanks -- I've been delaying that until I can actually buy, and I appreciate the info below. 

I was apparently hallucinating; I looked at the site a couple of days ago and I'd have SWORN there was a 63cm, carbon-only line on the geometry for the F5X/F4X. It's not there now, so I guess that answers my question handily.


----------



## loxx0050

loxx0050 said:


> There is no link, what model/product are you referring to?
> 
> I just ordered a 1.8mm and a 2.5mm spacer (Wheels Manufacturing brand) as they are the only ones I could find so far (that wasn't in a 10 pack that I don't need) and qualified for Amazon Prime shipping so I could get it by Friday. (only the 2.5mm shipped though and I don't know when the 1.8mm will). They look like they will work well enough.


I figured it out on my own with the help of the Rotor USA people as they responded to my post on another site and even provided a phone number to talk with someone live if I still had questions. Great customer service on their end. I still like the bike but come next time when I purchase a new bike I may start looking elsewhere now. For anybody with a Felt TT/Tri bike that has clearance issues using non round chainrings a spacer works great as long as it isn't too far out so the front derailleur can adjusted well enough.

Also, I wish somebody who had experience with this could've chimed in so I didn't end up buying 4 different sized spacers before I found the one that worked.


----------



## cyclosimian

I'm on my third Felt. This time I'm building up an FC from scratch.
I'm onto cabling the bike and was hoping to use the internal cable routing. Does anyone have any resources for helping me figure out how to install cables using the provided internal routing?

Thanks in advance. Ian


----------



## myhui

The kids road bike F24 used a steel fork in the earlier models and switched to a carbon fork for the newer models.

I rebuilt a F24 for my daughter from just a frame and wheels I bought used. Only after I bought that did I realize there are two versions of forks. I got the steel fork.

Can I buy the carbon fork from Felt? Are the dimensions the same so I can use the same headset and stem?


----------



## jedwards

Hi SD, I'm helping a friend of mine narrow down her choices of frames to replace a 2012 ZW5 that was damaged in shipment due to improper packing by our LBS (sigh). 

She's pretty sure she wants to replace her 2012 ZW5 with another ZW frame since she was very happy with her previous one, and the component differences between each of the 2013 ZW offerings are easily located, but what isn't clear is whether there are differences between the various frames themselves outside of color schemes. If you could share a few words to that effect or direct us to a reference doc regarding '13 ZW frame differences that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

- jason


----------



## Superdave3T

myhui said:


> The kids road bike F24 used a steel fork in the earlier models and switched to a carbon fork for the newer models.
> 
> I rebuilt a F24 for my daughter from just a frame and wheels I bought used. Only after I bought that did I realize there are two versions of forks. I got the steel fork.
> 
> Can I buy the carbon fork from Felt? Are the dimensions the same so I can use the same headset and stem?


We don't sell just the 24" carbon fork for the F24. I think only WoundUp offers a carbon 24" fork for aftermarket sale.

-Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

jedwards said:


> Hi SD, I'm helping a friend of mine narrow down her choices of frames to replace a 2012 ZW5 that was damaged in shipment due to improper packing by our LBS (sigh).
> 
> She's pretty sure she wants to replace her 2012 ZW5 with another ZW frame since she was very happy with her previous one, and the component differences between each of the 2013 ZW offerings are easily located, but what isn't clear is whether there are differences between the various frames themselves outside of color schemes. If you could share a few words to that effect or direct us to a reference doc regarding '13 ZW frame differences that would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> - jason


Jason,

We only offer a UHC Ultimate + Nano frame in the ZW1, the same frameset ridden by our Exergy 2016 Pro cycling team. The ZW2 thru ZW5 all use the UHC performance blend of carbon thus they have the same frame lay up.

-Dave


----------



## myhui

SuperdaveFelt said:


> We don't sell just the 24" carbon fork for the F24. I think only WoundUp offers a carbon 24" fork for aftermarket sale.
> -Dave


OK thanks for your info.


----------



## Z'mer

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Buy the 2013 Z4, it is a better frameset. Ask the shop for a swap to 11-32t where you purchase it, or wear out the 12-30t and update the range later. The difference between the 30t and the 32t is small. You may do many rides without ever riding in the 11 or the 32t but it is likely you'll use the 18t every time you get on the bike.
> 
> -SD


Since I ride a 2013 Z4, I'd love to hear a few reasons why it is a better frameset than the 2014 Z5. Do you mean the components, or the actual carbon fiber used? I can see some subtle differences in bars, wheels / tires, etc. It appears the double butted spokes used on 2013 Z4 and perhaps alloy nipples are not used for Z5 in 2014. Also the crank is FSA Omega, versus FSA Gossamer on 2013 Z4. 

Plus noticed the switch to the medium cage 105 RD on the 2014, versus the short cage on 2013. The medium cage RD may work better with 11-32T, I think 12-30T w/ 50-34 chain rings was pushing the limit for the 105 short cage on the 2013 Z4.


----------



## Superdave3T

Z'mer said:


> Since I ride a 2013 Z4, I'd love to hear a few reasons why it is a better frameset than the 2014 Z5. Do you mean the components, or the actual carbon fiber used? I can see some subtle differences in bars, wheels / tires, etc. It appears the double butted spokes used on 2013 Z4 and perhaps alloy nipples are not used for Z5 in 2014. Also the crank is FSA Omega, versus FSA Gossamer on 2013 Z4.
> 
> Plus noticed the switch to the medium cage 105 RD on the 2014, versus the short cage on 2013. The medium cage RD may work better with 11-32T, I think 12-30T w/ 50-34 chain rings was pushing the limit for the 105 short cage on the 2013 Z4.


The fork from '13 was a monocoque 100% carbon fork. The '14 Z5 is a composite bonded fork with alloy steerer. Other component changes are notable as you've pointed out. Of course there is a big price drop so the Z5 fits more budgets than ever before and is alone in it's price point with a carbon 105 bike. The OP had discovered a '13 on sale IIRC which is why I suggested it.

-SD


----------



## RoadEye

Hey Dave and all, 

at the risk of sounding like a nob, I'm in the market for a new bike and considering the Z1 frameset. I done some searching but, ended up more confused. I will go Ultegra 6800 for the grouppo (outside chance of Dura Ace)... question on the bottom bracket, can the BB30 handle the Shimano crankset? From what I understand there will need to be adapters and such but, is that something that will be solid and not just a makeshift fix. Is that commonly done? I see on the Z1 w/the Dura Ace, there still is that FSA crank. thanks

--Michael


----------



## Superdave3T

RoadEye said:


> Hey Dave and all,
> 
> at the risk of sounding like a nob, I'm in the market for a new bike and considering the Z1 frameset. I done some searching but, ended up more confused. I will go Ultegra 6800 for the grouppo (outside chance of Dura Ace)... question on the bottom bracket, can the BB30 handle the Shimano crankset? From what I understand there will need to be adapters and such but, is that something that will be solid and not just a makeshift fix. Is that commonly done? I see on the Z1 w/the Dura Ace, there still is that FSA crank. thanks
> 
> --Michael


Michael,

Yes, there are many options for BB30 to 24mm spindle cranks. We use FSA on the Z1 but used Shimano on the AR FRD, and F FRD: Both of those models use BB30. This is not a makeshift fix, in fact, many bottom bracket designs today use reducers of some sort to accomodate Shimano including Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Cervelo, BH, etc...

-SD


----------



## RoadEye

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Michael,
> 
> Yes, there are many options for BB30 to 24mm spindle cranks. We use FSA on the Z1 but used Shimano on the AR FRD, and F FRD: Both of those models use BB30. This is not a makeshift fix, in fact, many bottom bracket designs today use reducers of some sort to accomodate Shimano including Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Cervelo, BH, etc...
> 
> -SD


thanks for clearing that up. perhaps I've been doing too much research, my head was spinning. time to go for a test ride. the Z1 still high on the list. --Michael


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

Dave and others, 
Quick question. I changed my 2011 F4 from Ultegra standard double to compact and from 11-25 to 11-28 (double whammy to get up those hills!!).

The chain seems pretty slack.

Should I remove a few links from the chain, and, if so, how many?

Thanks in advance,
D.


----------



## Superdave3T

wotnoshoeseh said:


> Dave and others,
> Quick question. I changed my 2011 F4 from Ultegra standard double to compact and from 11-25 to 11-28 (double whammy to get up those hills!!).
> 
> The chain seems pretty slack.
> 
> Should I remove a few links from the chain, and, if so, how many?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> D.


39/25 to 34/28?

Sounds like you've got two extra links that you no longer need. There are a few ParkTool YouTube video instructions on setting up chain length. Google up some instruction or take the bike to your LBS to get it right. If you've got significant (~1000+) mileage on the chain I'd consider getting a new one with your new cassette so there are no skipping issues.

With Shimano's chains you cannot simply cut out chunks of chain and rejoin them.

-SD


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

SuperdaveFelt said:


> With Shimano's chains you cannot simply cut out chunks of chain and rejoin them.
> 
> -SD


I can rejoin the Shimano chain, can I not Dave? I'll need a new chain pin though.

Also I could use a quick link could I not?


----------



## Superdave3T

wotnoshoeseh said:


> I can rejoin the Shimano chain, can I not Dave? I'll need a new chain pin though.
> 
> Also I could use a quick link could I not?


I'm afraid I cannot speak on behalf of Shimano. I would never use a quick link in a Shimano chain or advocate rejoining a previously riveted outer link with a new Shimano pin.

I've had the misfortune of breaking a chain so I'm probably more cautious than your average home-mechanic.

If it were a helicopter, would you service it or use any product outside of its intended use?

-SD


----------



## wotnoshoeseh

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I would never use a quick link in a Shimano chain or advocate rejoining a previously riveted outer link with a new Shimano pin.


OK - I understand about not using the quick link. It's not an approved Shimano method, so I get that. It is possible though, and, on occasion, necessary to remove links from a chain prior to fitting to get the correct length. That's all I'd be doing here albeit I'd now have two chain pins on the chain. That would hardly be the end of the world.




SuperdaveFelt said:


> If it were a helicopter, would you service it or use any product outside of its intended use?
> 
> -SD


I understand what you are saying here, but, with respect, it's not the same level of risk.


----------



## jeepsouth

I see where the Hincapie Development Team is now riding Felts. Congratulations on the association with Hincapie. What bikes is the team riding?


----------



## Superdave3T

jeepsouth said:


> I see where the Hincapie Development Team is now riding Felts. Congratulations on the association with Hincapie. What bikes is the team riding?


FC & F FRD I think. I can verify once the orders are confirmed.

-SD


----------



## LOW2000

wotnoshoeseh said:


> I understand what you are saying here, but, with respect, it's not the same level of risk.


If you're out of the saddle and the chain lets go, your anatomy may protest that opinion.


----------



## RobbV

Super Dave, I just picked up my 2014 AR4 about a month ago. I love it and I'm very pleased with my purchase. I did not recieve the assy. paste or touch up paint with the bike. I would like to know exactly what I was supposed to recieve before I contact the shop where I purchased. The Felt website doesn't say exactly either. Should I be getting red, white, and clear? In regards to the TACX assy. paste, how much? Again, Love the bike. I have 2 Felt MTB's also. I like what you guys kick out overthere.


----------



## GT8

Hi SuperDave,

Bought an F1 frameset and building her up over the holidays after 2 years with my fantastic F5.

Desperate to get hold of a couple of the cable protectors for my new build to finish her off perfectly. I have tried emailing the UK importer but they cannot help. 

Can you help at all please?

Thanks









Stuart


----------



## GT8

Hi SuperDave,

Bought an F1 frameset and building her up over the holidays after 2 years with my fantastic F5.

Desperate to get hold of a couple of the cable protectors for my new build to finish her off perfectly. I have tried emailing the UK importer but they cannot help. 

Can you help at all please?

Thanks

View attachment 290002


Stuart


----------



## RedViola

Nice to hear Felt include assy paste with new bike purchases. Plugging a big hole in the market there. Wish more manufacturers would pull a finger out and follow suit.


----------



## LOW2000

RobbV said:


> SD, I just picked up my 2014 AR4 about a month ago. I love it and I'm very pleased with my purchase. I did not recieve the assy. paste or touch up paint with the bike. I would like to know exactly what I was supposed to recieve before I contact the shop where I purchased. The Felt website doesn't say exactly either. Should I be getting red, white, and clear? In regards to the TACX assy. paste, how much? Again, Love the bike. I have 2 Felt MTB's also. I like what you guys kick out overthere.


+1 Also didn't get any extras with my 2014 AR4 other than a spare pair of seat post silicone covers, the little front derailleur adjustment screw protection plates, and the instruction booklet. The felt site says it should come with "Carbon assembly paste, chain plate protector, valve extenders, aero seatpost slot covers, touch-up paint"

If there any other cool accessories in the works for the AR series, I'd love to know about them also. The upcoming 3T VR seatposts, the "F brake", clip on aero bars, etc, etc.


----------



## RoadEye

RoadEye said:


> thanks for clearing that up. perhaps I've been doing too much research, my head was spinning. time to go for a test ride. the Z1 still high on the list. --Michael


Hey Dave... thanks again for the info. just wanted to let you know that we're getting the Z1 frame, ordered it this weekend. building it up with the DA 9000 group set. It would be a shame to put anything less on such a gorgeous frame. --Michael


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, any input on where I can buy a forward offset carbon seatpost for my '13 B12? I bought the bike from a guy that put a standard post on, but no longer had the forward post. I need to get one to set the bike up properly.

Any makers beyond Felt? And, will Felt part number 910312 be the right part?


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, a little love here? lol


----------



## bwbishop

Dave,

Looking to upgrade my 2010 Zc to Ultegra Di2. Any tips about which components work best for wire sizing and such as well as best routing?

Thanks for all the support on the board,

Brian


----------



## vertr

Hello, is the new FC frameset built in Taiwan or China? 

Thanks.


----------



## max4ever

Dave,

Thinking about the 2014 z4. Curious, why run a rival group, but substitute the front derailleur with apex (cost, little performance difference)? Also, I would like to swap the 34 chainring for a 36, what SRAM chainring is compatible with the current set up on that bike. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Suney

Hey superdave, just wondering when do you start shipping/supplying the new AR1 overseas (New Zeaaland)
I rang the distributor and even he's not sure of the eta, said it "might" be April, does that sound right?


----------



## Donn12

Dave - Im getting ready to order Chorus for my 2013 F65x...do you know which derailier mount to get and what bottom bracket?


----------



## izza

Suney said:


> Hey superdave, just wondering when do you start shipping/supplying the new AR1 overseas (New Zeaaland)
> I rang the distributor and even he's not sure of the eta, said it "might" be April, does that sound right?


And the UK? Distributor didn't know here either.


----------



## Superdave3T

max4ever said:


> Dave,
> 
> Thinking about the 2014 z4. Curious, why run a rival group, but substitute the front derailleur with apex (cost, little performance difference)? Also, I would like to swap the 34 chainring for a 36, what SRAM chainring is compatible with the current set up on that bike. Thanks for your help.


The bike is priced among other Apex bikes in the market with comparable frames/forks. Don't think of it as a Rival bike with an Apex F/D, think of it as an Apex bike with Rival brifters & R/D. There is no functional difference between the two front derailleurs and some parts are even shared between the two.

I know SRAM has a matched set of 52/36t chainrings but I don't think they make a 50/36t pairing. FSA and TruVativ (pre-SRAM) used to, perhaps you could find a matched set? Of course you can use a 36t non-Yaw inner ring from SRAM or FSA or Shimano or whomever you choose but the ramps and full engagement of the chain whilst shifting may not occur as it would with a matched set. 

Best,
SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Suney said:


> Hey superdave, just wondering when do you start shipping/supplying the new AR1 overseas (New Zeaaland)
> I rang the distributor and even he's not sure of the eta, said it "might" be April, does that sound right?


AR1 framesets have been shipping from our factory in Taiwan for some time but I'm afraid I do not know every global distributors schedule. It may be possible that other bikes and frames are combined in a 40ft ocean-going container load to the smaller distributors and while the AR1 frames may be ready the other frames to fill a container may not be. It sounds like the NZ dist. is waiting for all the premium frames to combine into one shipment perhaps. The F FRD, AR FRD, and IA FRD are going into production this month so April arrival in NZ sounds reasonable if this is in fact their plan.

I'm sure that the New Zealand distributor has more information regarding their shipments than I do. I'm responsible for development and getting them through production. After that our global sales team in Germany spreads the love.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

Donn12 said:


> Dave - Im getting ready to order Chorus for my 2013 F65x...do you know which derailier mount to get and what bottom bracket?


The front derailleur should be the largest 35mm clamp for the aluminum 'cross bikes. The BB is the direct press in 42mm I.D. not the SRAM-standard PF30 size (46mm)

Make sure you re-use the compressionless housing for the rear brake. The powerful campagnolo brake levers will result in a soft lever feel on the rear brake if the fully routed rear brake cable housing is standard coiled/wound cable housing type. Nokon, Jagwire KEB, or other similar housing is recommended.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

izza said:


> And the UK? Distributor didn't know here either.


AR1 framesets have been shipping from our factory in Taiwan for some time but I'm afraid I do not know every global distributors schedule. It may be possible that other bikes and frames are combined in a 40ft ocean-going container load to the smaller distributors and while the AR1 frames may be ready the other frames to fill a container may not be. It sounds like Saddleback, our UK dist. is waiting for all the premium frames to combine into one shipment perhaps. The F FRD, AR FRD, and IA FRD are going into production this month so April arrival in NZ sounds reasonable if this is in fact their plan.

I'm sure that Saddleback has more information regarding their shipments than I do. I'm responsible for development and getting them through production. After that our global sales team in Germany spreads the love.

Do you have saddleback's contact details? They are great guys and I'm sure would be happy to provide whatever information they accurately can.

-SD

-SD


----------



## Donn12

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The front derailleur should be the largest 35mm clamp for the aluminum 'cross bikes. The BB is the direct press in 42mm I.D. not the SRAM-standard PF30 size (46mm)
> 
> Make sure you re-use the compressionless housing for the rear brake. The powerful campagnolo brake levers will result in a soft lever feel on the rear brake if the fully routed rear brake cable housing is standard coiled/wound cable housing type. Nokon, Jagwire KEB, or other similar housing is recommended.
> 
> -SD


Thank you - you are a big help and represent Felt well on RBR!


----------



## izza

Am speaking to Saddleback. Thanks for production schedule information.


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, what are the chances of finding a stock replacement fork for a 2013 B12 ?

If not stock fork, is it possible to get an all white fork, versus a natural (no paint) carbon finish?

My dealer will be checking this week, just wondering my chances are to get an identical replacement.

My fork was beat up beyond repair when the bike was shipped, so need a replacement (non-warranty).

Thank you
Dennis


----------



## Superdave3T

Harley-Dale said:


> Dave, what are the chances of finding a stock replacement fork for a 2013 B12 ?
> 
> If not stock fork, is it possible to get an all white fork, versus a natural (no paint) carbon finish?
> 
> My dealer will be checking this week, just wondering my chances are to get an identical replacement.
> 
> My fork was beat up beyond repair when the bike was shipped, so need a replacement (non-warranty).
> 
> Thank you
> Dennis


If you are in the USA I'd give it a 50/50 chance. 

-SD


----------



## max4ever

Thank you Superdave.



SuperdaveFelt said:


> The bike is priced among other Apex bikes in the market with comparable frames/forks. Don't think of it as a Rival bike with an Apex F/D, think of it as an Apex bike with Rival brifters & R/D. There is no functional difference between the two front derailleurs and some parts are even shared between the two.
> 
> I know SRAM has a matched set of 52/36t chainrings but I don't think they make a 50/36t pairing. FSA and TruVativ (pre-SRAM) used to, perhaps you could find a matched set? Of course you can use a 36t non-Yaw inner ring from SRAM or FSA or Shimano or whomever you choose but the ramps and full engagement of the chain whilst shifting may not occur as it would with a matched set.
> 
> Best,
> SD


----------



## RobbV

RobbV said:


> Super Dave, I just picked up my 2014 AR4 about a month ago. I love it and I'm very pleased with my purchase. I did not recieve the assy. paste or touch up paint with the bike. I would like to know exactly what I was supposed to recieve before I contact the shop where I purchased. The Felt website doesn't say exactly either. Should I be getting red, white, and clear? In regards to the TACX assy. paste, how much? Again, Love the bike. I have 2 Felt MTB's also. I like what you guys kick out over there.


Hey SuperDave, I'm not sure if you missed my post here or what. I'm just bringing it up again in case you missed it and my private message as well. If for some reason you cannot provide an answer could you please let me know who to contact. I see that Low2000 also had the same questions in regards to his recent purchase of a 2014 AR4. Thanks for your time. Love the bike.


----------



## Harley-Dale

SuperdaveFelt said:


> If you are in the USA I'd give it a 50/50 chance.
> 
> -SD


I am in Las Vegas area, and those odds aren't bad, but not great either lol

Thank you, Dave. I still havent heard from my shop yet, but at least I know what to expect. 

Thanks again for your great support of this forum!

Dennis


----------



## Superdave3T

RobbV said:


> Hey SuperDave, I'm not sure if you missed my post here or what. I'm just bringing it up again in case you missed it and my private message as well. If for some reason you cannot provide an answer could you please let me know who to contact. I see that Low2000 also had the same questions in regards to his recent purchase of a 2014 AR4. Thanks for your time. Love the bike.


Sorry I missed it, you can always email me directly if you require a timely reply. I seldom have the time to pour over every post of every web forum I subscribe to. 

The assembly paste may have been used by your dealer if they didn't have any to assemble the bike. It comes with a small "travel size" tube. Your AR4 does not use paint color, just a clear coat. We do not supply the clear coat as touch up as the paint type would not stay liquid for more than a few days. I recommend marine epoxy for touching up the clear finish if it gets chipped. The red and white colors on the frame are decals. Bring your frame to a model/toy store and find some Testors' enamel to match if you need to make a repair.

Check with your dealer on the torque paste, maybe they have some extra if the included paste was used on your bike.

-SD


----------



## RobbV

Superdave, Thanks for the reply. No worries.


----------



## wrenchdevil1

*2013 or 2014 Felt F5?*

Dave, first post on the forums,but I hear you are the guy to ask and resident expert on all things Felt. I have been looking for an entry level road bike and have settled on the Felt F5. I have found a couple that I am interested in but want to know why the '13 models are several hundred dollars more in price on average than the '14's? I did a component comparison and for the most part the builds seem similar, am I missing something? Thanks, and can't wait to purchase my first Felt!


----------



## Superdave3T

wrenchdevil1 said:


> Dave, first post on the forums,but I hear you are the guy to ask and resident expert on all things Felt. I have been looking for an entry level road bike and have settled on the Felt F5. I have found a couple that I am interested in but want to know why the '13 models are several hundred dollars more in price on average than the '14's? I did a component comparison and for the most part the builds seem similar, am I missing something? Thanks, and can't wait to purchase my first Felt!


Thanks for your post. A few things; you haven't "settled" on anything, the F5 is an incredible frame. You are getting technology and race performance capable of winning at the highest level of sport. There is nothing entry level about an F5 frame from STW to the handling and geometry.

Along with changes in the global economic situation, currency exchange rates, and non-Taiwan component prices there are small changes in items like tires and tubes that make up some of the difference. The 2013 and 2014 F5 frames are the same if you are buying the bikes outside of the EU.

-SD


----------



## wrenchdevil1

Dave, thanks for the reply! "Settled" in probably the wrong word in stating my decision of going with Felt F5. I've researched, compared, and test ridden C'dale, Trek, Specialized, and Scott bikes, but the Felt was the one that stuck with me from ride, styling, value, and component build standpoints. Thanks again!
Darrell


----------



## Superdave3T

GT8 said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> Bought an F1 frameset and building her up over the holidays after 2 years with my fantastic F5.
> 
> Desperate to get hold of a couple of the cable protectors for my new build to finish her off perfectly. I have tried emailing the UK importer but they cannot help.
> 
> Can you help at all please?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> View attachment 290002
> 
> 
> Stuart


Sorry Stuart, I just saw this message. Those tube top protectors have been out of production for a couple years. There are other sources for non-Felt branded ones now though.

-SD


----------



## Dropmaster

I have a 2011 F4 with the white on Black color scheme and I would like to purchase a uncut fork with the same color scheme. Any ideas on who to contact? No one at Felt responds to my email inquiry...


----------



## FeltF75rider

Just ordered an F4, size 54cm and was informed it is back ordered and will be be late February before I see it. Is this the whole run of bike sizes or just the 54's. I am good with waiting I have been drooling over this bike since the pictures hit Felt' s website. Just curious on how accurate the projected wait is.


----------



## Superdave3T

FeltF75rider said:


> Just ordered an F4, size 54cm and was informed it is back ordered and will be be late February before I see it. Is this the whole run of bike sizes or just the 54's. I am good with waiting I have been drooling over this bike since the pictures hit Felt' s website. Just curious on how accurate the projected wait is.


Where did you order it from? Just about all of Asia shuts down for Chinese New Year next week so shipments will be interrupted by a week or so. If the F4 is out of stock in your area/country additional inventory will not arrive until after CNY + ocean transit time. Late Feb sounds accurate.

Where are you located? Where did you order the bike from? It may be possible a 54cm F4 exists, perhaps just not earmarked as "open" inventory.

-SD


----------



## 95zpro

Dave, 
Saw your post on the production dates for Europe in regards to the AR but what about US dates. Looking at the AR2 or even a (56) frameset but my LBS in Houston can't really find any production info or educated guess....


----------



## Dropmaster

Dropmaster said:


> I have a 2011 F4 with the white on Black color scheme and I would like to purchase a uncut fork with the same color scheme. Any ideas on who to contact? No one at Felt responds to my email inquiry...
> 
> View attachment 291301


Looks like I cant get an answer here either...


----------



## FeltF75rider

I am in Edmonds Washington and just ordered it last weekend. I have no problem waiting just curious mainly.


----------



## Superdave3T

Dropmaster said:


> Looks like I cant get an answer here either...



Wasn't your first post less than 24 hours ago?

-SD


----------



## natedg200202

Happy Friday SuperDave!

I'm looking at a good deal on Craigslist for a Felt F90 to get a friend into cycling. 

I'm finding some geometry but feel lost without stack / reach. Do you have stack reach numbers for this model? It's a 60cm. 

Thanks as always.


----------



## 95zpro

SuperDave,

In the market for a AR2 or even a AR1 frame in a (56), what is an adequate lead time as my LBS said they don't show anything in the production schedule here in Houston...


----------



## Superdave3T

95zpro said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> In the market for a AR2 or even a AR1 frame in a (56), what is an adequate lead time as my LBS said they don't show anything in the production schedule here in Houston...


I'd suggest you find a dealer that ordered a bike and has it in stock. I'm guessing all AR models are spoken for by now in a 56cm except maybe the AR3 EPS which had a few left when I inquired for a friend last week. AR3 EPS uses the same lay up as the AR1 and AR2 but is the lightest of the bunch owing to the cosmetic finish and electronic-only cable routing.

-SD


----------



## henners89

Hi
I am looking to buy the new 2014 AR1 frameset in the UK.
Please could you advise me on:
1. Will the AR1 allow for 25c tyres?2. Sizing - I am 5ft10 with inseam of 30cm, short legs/longer body! Would you recommend 54 or 56? I currently ride an 07 Trek Madone 5.2 size 56 but with the saddle pretty forward and a 90mm stem.
Thanks in advance!
Henry


----------



## Superdave3T

henners89 said:


> Hi
> I am looking to buy the new 2014 AR1 frameset in the UK.
> Please could you advise me on:
> 1. Will the AR1 allow for 25c tyres?2. Sizing - I am 5ft10 with inseam of 30cm, short legs/longer body! Would you recommend 54 or 56? I currently ride an 07 Trek Madone 5.2 size 56 but with the saddle pretty forward and a 90mm stem.
> Thanks in advance!
> Henry


Yes, you can ride 25mm tires on the AR.
You could ride a 56cm if you prefer the taller bar height and slower handling. I cannot fit you over the internet any easier than I could offer you a haircut over the phone.

-SD


----------



## loxx0050

SD,

For my 2012 B12, is there aftermarket aerobar pad height parts I can get? The stock height is spaced out by a custom shaped metal spacer and was wondering if there are options to buy different height ones (looking to lower it slightly). 

Or, am I stuck just cutting them with a hacksaw and the bolts the same amount of length?

Thanks,

loxx0050


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> SD,
> 
> For my 2012 B12, is there aftermarket aerobar pad height parts I can get? The stock height is spaced out by a custom shaped metal spacer and was wondering if there are options to buy different height ones (looking to lower it slightly).
> 
> Or, am I stuck just cutting them with a hacksaw and the bolts the same amount of length?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> loxx0050


I don't know what height was installed when you bought the bike but there are indeed different sizes and other companies make them that fit also. You could also just use two washers of whatever thickness you choose to shim the pads up to whatever height you need. Lowering the headset spacers below the stem is another way to achieve a lower position as well.

-SD


----------



## Waffer Thin Mint

*Seat post clamp*

Hi Dave - Re the single bolt seat post clamp that is offered as an aftermarket item on the US site (for F series frames).

I searched the FELT forums and found one reply you had provided re it's use versus the 2 bolt clamp that comes on all F series. 

My question is: Is the single bolt clamp still available, and can it be purchased from the UK? Also, other than aftermarket seat post diameters you refered to in the previous post I found, is there any other reason the 2 bolt is better than the single bolt? I have a Ritchey Superlogic post for my F3 and I am leaning towards the single bolt clamp for purely aesthetic reasons (call it vanity!).

I would greatly appreciate your feedback!
Thanks in advance for your time and input.
WTM


----------



## Superdave3T

Waffer Thin Mint said:


> Hi Dave - Re the single bolt seat post clamp that is offered as an aftermarket item on the US site (for F series frames).
> 
> I searched the FELT forums and found one reply you had provided re it's use versus the 2 bolt clamp that comes on all F series.
> 
> My question is: Is the single bolt clamp still available, and can it be purchased from the UK? Also, other than aftermarket seat post diameters you refered to in the previous post I found, is there any other reason the 2 bolt is better than the single bolt? I have a Ritchey Superlogic post for my F3 and I am leaning towards the single bolt clamp for purely aesthetic reasons (call it vanity!).
> 
> I would greatly appreciate your feedback!
> Thanks in advance for your time and input.
> WTM


The single bolt clamp is less forgiving on parts that have poor tolerance or fit. Ritchey makes some good stuff. Slather the post in Tacx torque paste and grease the ti bolt and scandium barrel nut. The clamps should be available still.

-Dave


----------



## loxx0050

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I don't know what height was installed when you bought the bike but there are indeed different sizes and other companies make them that fit also. You could also just use two washers of whatever thickness you choose to shim the pads up to whatever height you need. Lowering the headset spacers below the stem is another way to achieve a lower position as well.
> 
> -SD


This is what I am looking for now that you mention they do exist: FELT Spacer for Bayonet 3 Aero Bar

Except the ones on my bike are shaped different internally than the ones listed on your European (or UK site). Oddly, I don't understand why these are not offered on your US site (I can't find them)? It seems a lot more spare parts are available for purchase through your overseas site as opposed to your domestic one. What gives as we all know you are located stateside corporately? 

I want to lower my pads relative to the bar extensions so changing the spacers for the stem stack will not fix what I am looking for. I recently swapped the stock f-bend bars for 3T Ski Bends and find I prefer an extra 1/2 inch (or roughly 1 cm) on the edge in the bent portion (where the shifters mount). But, my options are pretty slim for j-bend extensions and 3T is the only one who sells them by themselves it seems. So my best bet is to lower the arm rest pad heights (which appear to be 15mm+ in height at least on my bike from the LBS).


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> This is what I am looking for now that you mention they do exist: FELT Spacer for Bayonet 3 Aero Bar
> 
> Except the ones on my bike are shaped different internally than the ones listed on your European (or UK site). Oddly, I don't understand why these are not offered on your US site (I can't find them)? It seems a lot more spare parts are available for purchase through your overseas site as opposed to your domestic one. What gives as we all know you are located stateside corporately?
> 
> I want to lower my pads relative to the bar extensions so changing the spacers for the stem stack will not fix what I am looking for. I recently swapped the stock f-bend bars for 3T Ski Bends and find I prefer an extra 1/2 inch (or roughly 1 cm) on the edge in the bent portion (where the shifters mount). But, my options are pretty slim for j-bend extensions and 3T is the only one who sells them by themselves it seems. So my best bet is to lower the arm rest pad heights (which appear to be 15mm+ in height at least on my bike from the LBS).


If you bought a new Felt with a Bayonet3 handlebar it came with every spacer and bolt we make. Did you check with your dealer for these small parts?

The external shape is the same but depending on the height some spacers are threaded and some spacers are simply "stack" or hollow so the bolt passes through them. Do you have the owner's manual?

We do not sell these small parts on our consumer site in the US largely because we use our extensive North American distributor's dealer network to supply items to consumers. I am located stateside, but Felt is not. The Felt GmbH mothership is in Germany. I work in the Irvine, CA Tech Center. There is no sales component to our office at all. The Felt USA distributor is in New York.

I would go to a Felt dealer where you bought the bike and be sure you have all the bolts, hardware and spacers that came with your bike.

D009T07	5mm threadless aero spacers	5mm	4	BLACK w/ 5mm laser logo
D009T10	10mm threadless aero spacers	10mm	2	BLACK w/ 10mm laser logo
D009T06-22	22mm threaded aero spacers	22mm	2	BLACK w/ 20mm laser logo
D009T06-30	30mm threaded aero spacers	30mm	2	BLACK w/ 30mm laser logo
D009T06-40	40mm threaded aero spacers	40mm	2	BLACK w/ 40mm laser logo
D009T14	2mm fit washers	2mm	40	BLACK
D009T13, D009T08	Narrow Extension Bridge, Wide extension bridge	"Narrow = 90mm
Wide = 130mm"	2	BLACK w/ F-Wing laser logo
per specification	M6 x 15mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 15mm 2	Steel W/ Nickel Coating
M6 x 20mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 20mm	4	
M6 x 25mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 25mm	4	
M6 x 30mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 30mm	8	
M6 x 35mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 35mm	4	
M6 x 40mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 40mm	4	
M6 x 45mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 45mm	4	
M6 x 50mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 50mm	4	
M6 x 55mm SCr 435 Low-Head 4mm Hex Head bolts w/ integrated washers	M6 x 55mm	4	
D009T02	ø22.2mm Extension Clamp	ø22.2mm	2	BLACK w/ 6Nm laser logo
0006T05	LEFT & RIGHT specific Aluminum Spacers to prevent clamps from collapsing if over-torqued	2 hole, 1.75mm thick anti-crush spacers	2	BLACK Anodized 6061 Aluminum
D009T09	Aero shaped Nut with two M6 threaded holes to clamp extension mounts on the underside of the base bar	Oval nut w/ 2 x M6 threaded holes	2	BLACK Anodized 6061 Aluminum
D009T01	ø22.2mm Arm Rest	ø22.2mm	2	BLACK w/ 6Nm laser logo
D009T11	Arm Rest 2	BLACK w/ 1 color graphic decal
D009T03	Arm Rest Mounting Washer 2	BLACK w/ 4Nm laser logo
per specification	M5 x 12mm SCr 435 Counter-sunk 4mm Hex Head Arm Rest mounting bolts	M5 x 12mm	4	Steel W/ Nickel Coating


-SD


----------



## henners89

*Felt AR1 2014, F1 2013*

Hi
It seems all the uk dealers are sold out of AR1s (size 54). Are there any plans for more to be made available?
As another option the F1 2013 frames are still available in some places. I have a sram force 22 groupset - is there any way this could be routed internally?
Thanks
Henry


----------



## max4ever

Superdave, forgive me if this has been covered before, but a search did not give me an answer. I certainly wouldn't think so, but does riding on a trainer void the frame warranty (just purchased a new Z4). Thanks for your help.


----------



## Superdave3T

max4ever said:


> Superdave, forgive me if this has been covered before, but a search did not give me an answer. I certainly wouldn't think so, but does riding on a trainer void the frame warranty (just purchased a new Z4). Thanks for your help.


Stationary trainers which suspend the bicycle by clamping the rear quick release put stresses into the frame - namely TENSION on the stays - which would never be apparently while riding on the road. I recommend a roller-type trainer that allows the forces of the rider weight and effort to mimic what is seen on the road which matches the design of the bicycle structural requirement.

-Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

henners89 said:


> Hi
> It seems all the uk dealers are sold out of AR1s (size 54). Are there any plans for more to be made available?
> As another option the F1 2013 frames are still available in some places. I have a sram force 22 groupset - is there any way this could be routed internally?
> Thanks
> Henry


Henry,

We'll have more AR1 frames available this summer. Demand has outstripped what was expected to be a 1 year supply.

The F1 cannot be run internally with mechanical shifting, only electronic.

-Dave


----------



## henners89

Thanks Dave.
If I got Ultegra di2 would this fit the F1 and would the brake cables also run internally?
Which di2/ui2 battery mount would I need for the F1 - short/long or can it take a seat post battery?
Thanks
Henry


----------



## chudak

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Stationary trainers which suspend the bicycle by clamping the rear quick release put stresses into the frame - namely TENSION on the stays - which would never be apparently while riding on the road. I recommend a roller-type trainer that allows the forces of the rider weight and effort to mimic what is seen on the road which matches the design of the bicycle structural requirement.
> 
> -Dave


This is one of the reasons I'm using my old steel bike on the trainer rather than my Z4.


----------



## Superdave3T

henners89 said:


> Thanks Dave.
> If I got Ultegra di2 would this fit the F1 and would the brake cables also run internally?
> Which di2/ui2 battery mount would I need for the F1 - short/long or can it take a seat post battery?
> Thanks
> Henry


No, the brake cables would run on the carbon cable stops on the outside of the top tube. There is no such thing as Ui2. A shimano battery is a shimano battery. You can use the external BTR1 or internal BTR2. You can use short mount on the chainstay or long mount on the water bottle boss (except 48cm). You can use the internal battery in the seatpost if you select a seatpost that is internal battery compatible, that has nothing to do with the Felt F1 frame, it is more of a limitation of the post itself. I like the Ritchey/Chuhn-E ART rubber plug type insert for the internal Di2 battery.

-SD


----------



## max4ever

*Z4*



chudak said:


> This is one of the reasons I'm using my old steel bike on the trainer rather than my Z4.


What's your impression of the bike? I just picked up the same bike (size as well) this winter.


----------



## RoadEye

chudak said:


> This is one of the reasons I'm using my old steel bike on the trainer rather than my Z4.


if you can... this is the way to go. the bike I've been riding for the last five years and many thousands of miles is now lovingly referred to as my beater bike and is what goes on the trainer.


----------



## chudak

max4ever said:


> What's your impression of the bike? I just picked up the same bike (size as well) this winter.


It's funny, I never test rode this bike before I bought it. I did a bike fit and it was one of the models they said would work for me. I had headed into the shop expecting to leave with an F series. I left with the Z4.

However, after putting close to 10k miles on this bike in the last year and a half I can honestly say I love it. Ironically my original Z4 was stolen about a month after I bought it. While I was dealing with the insurance company I went out and test rode a bunch of bikes (Jamis, Masi, Scott, Orbea) but I didn't like the ride of any of them the way I like the Felt. I'm sure some of that was the way I did the test rides: street shorts, tennis shoes and bikes that weren't dialed in to fit me. Nevertheless I ordered another Z4 and have not regretted that decision.

I hardly see anybody in our club or out on the road riding Felt. Lots of Trek, Cannondale, Specialized and the occasional Pinarello, Orbea, Look or Cervelo but very few Felt. They don't know what they are missing.


----------



## max4ever

*Z4*



chudak said:


> It's funny, I never test rode this bike before I bought it. I did a bike fit and it was one of the models they said would work for me. I had headed into the shop expecting to leave with an F series. I left with the Z4.
> 
> However, after putting close to 10k miles on this bike in the last year and a half I can honestly say I love it. Ironically my original Z4 was stolen about a month after I bought it. While I was dealing with the insurance company I went out and test rode a bunch of bikes (Jamis, Masi, Scott, Orbea) but I didn't like the ride of any of them the way I like the Felt. I'm sure some of that was the way I did the test rides: street shorts, tennis shoes and bikes that weren't dialed in to fit me. Nevertheless I ordered another Z4 and have not regretted that decision.
> 
> I hardly see anybody in our club or out on the road riding Felt. Lots of Trek, Cannondale, Specialized and the occasional Pinarello, Orbea, Look or Cervelo but very few Felt. They don't know what they are missing.


Great to hear. I, like you, never rode the bike, but it was suggested after a fit. I did ride the Z85, loved it, tested a handful of carbon bikes, but liked the feel of the Felt. So, I don't think it will be an issue even though I haven't rode the Z4 (obviously the geometry is about the same, so I didn't think it would be a stretch to get the bike). Thanks for the response.


----------



## ClayL

*2014 z2*

This bike is on my short list. Is it available now with mechanical brakes and shifters and will SRAM replace them with the hydros when the redisign is done?


----------



## commfire

I have a 2012 F1x and F1. I want to set these up with Di2. Can they be internally routed so that the battery can be placed in the seat post? I would say yes but the BB shell is solid. Any help?


----------



## JimmyORCA

Dave

Are there any real reviews out there on the new 2014 Felt Ar FRD? I want to know a little more about it before deciding to order one or not.
Thanks


----------



## gregcharlton

I need some advice. 

I am looking to buying the Felt F1 2013 frameset. I am debating on what groupset to go with but leaning towards Di2. Does the F1 frame support internal cabling or not, to be used with Di2, or is all cabling external?
I am not the most technical so please bare with me.


Felt F1 Frame Kit 2013 | £1294.99 | Components | Frames - Road | Singletrack Bikes | Secure Online Cycle Shop


----------



## Richard AR1

*AR1 headset spacers, needed?*

Hi, I have recently built an AR1. I noticed that the frame came with 2 very thin washer/spacers with the fork and headset bearings. I didnt use them as the clearances all looked ok to me. Do they need to be put in, if so where and why?
I ask because although there is NO play at all in the headset I sometimes get a metallic knock sound when going over sharp bumps in the road. It may not be the lack of spacers causing it but just in case I thought I'd ask the question.

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

Richard AR1 said:


> Hi, I have recently built an AR1. I noticed that the frame came with 2 very thin washer/spacers with the fork and headset bearings. I didnt use them as the clearances all looked ok to me. Do they need to be put in, if so where and why?
> I ask because although there is NO play at all in the headset I sometimes get a metallic knock sound when going over sharp bumps in the road. It may not be the lack of spacers causing it but just in case I thought I'd ask the question.
> 
> Thanks


They are not needed if there is adequate clearance between the upper headset cover and the head tube.

-Dave


----------



## max4ever

chudak said:


> This is one of the reasons I'm using my old steel bike on the trainer rather than my Z4.


I noticed in older posts you had a problem with noise/clicking emanating from the BB, what was the final resolution (I searched, but didn't find a post)? Thanks.


----------



## GONEBIKETODAY

I've got a F2 which I love and ride 4 or 5 days a week, but just picked up a never-used Z4 with the older frame design. While it is a size 61, the seatpost does not extend long enough for me (well, it does, but it's over an inch passed the 'minimum' line). Also, the stem is difficult to adjust: the internal bushing does not line up the cone spacer and removing the spacers out the bottom does not work very well. Any recommendations? Does Felt make a longer seatpost that would match my bike (maybe I can trade)? I heard you were the guy to contact with these matters. I love my F2 and might just sell this geriatric bike and get another F-series, but want to give endurance riding a shot (50 miles is enough on my F2). Thanks SuperDave!!!


----------



## bwbishop

GONEBIKETODAY said:


> I've got a F2 which I love and ride 4 or 5 days a week, but just picked up a never-used Z4 with the older frame design. While it is a size 61, the seatpost does not extend long enough for me (well, it does, but it's over an inch passed the 'minimum' line). Also, the stem is difficult to adjust: the internal bushing does not line up the cone spacer and removing the spacers out the bottom does not work very well. Any recommendations? Does Felt make a longer seatpost that would match my bike (maybe I can trade)? I heard you were the guy to contact with these matters. I love my F2 and might just sell this geriatric bike and get another F-series, but want to give endurance riding a shot (50 miles is enough on my F2). Thanks SuperDave!!!


I have a 58 Zc and had to replace the seat post for similar reasons. I got an Easton EC70 and it looks great.


----------



## superjohnny

Hey SuperDave,
Are there any dealers in the PDX area who have an F4 in stock? 

Thank you


----------



## Superdave3T

superjohnny said:


> Hey SuperDave,
> Are there any dealers in the PDX area who have an F4 in stock?
> 
> Thank you


I'm not sure how I could/would know that information.
We have a dealer locator on our USA webpage. Punch in your zip code and the distance you are willing to drive and it will list all the Felt Dealers. Pick up the phone and call them all.

I'm afraid I'm not able to do this for you.

-Dave


----------



## Keith_mtb

Dave, I like to get out on my bike in early spring and have to battle cold temps(as low as mid 20s) and also de-icer they put on roads. I always try to get my 2013 z5 wiped off and cleaned up after these messy rides, but I was curious on your take with the moisture that can still come from the road and build on the frame. See pics for bb area and head tube icing over. I want to keep my z5 for years to come... This isn't hard on the frame is it? The cold temps or the ice that can form during a ride... After all, Boeing makes wings out of carbon fiber.... By the way, love my new Z5, keep up the great work. Shout out to my shop, This Bike Life in Spokane, WA. They do well representing Felt and a high level of service.


----------



## Superdave3T

Keith_mtb said:


> View attachment 293306
> View attachment 293307
> 
> Dave, I like to get out on my bike in early spring and have to battle cold temps(as low as mid 20s) and also de-icer they put on roads. I always try to get my 2013 z5 wiped off and cleaned up after these messy rides, but I was curious on your take with the moisture that can still come from the road and build on the frame. See pics for bb area and head tube icing over. I want to keep my z5 for years to come... This isn't hard on the frame is it? The cold temps or the ice that can form during a ride... After all, Boeing makes wings out of carbon fiber.... By the way, love my new Z5, keep up the great work. Shout out to my shop, This Bike Life in Spokane, WA. They do well representing Felt and a high level of service.


Ride in the slop, then clean it when you get back with mild detergents. A cleaned bike is a happy bike but never getting it dirty is far worse.

-SD


----------



## jedwards11

I'm looking at possibly buying either an F4 or F5 in the near future. I'll eventually upgrade it to DI2 in a year or two but it's little pricey for me to do it all at once. It seems like the F4 is a more straight forward upgrade being that it's already 11 speed. But I think I like the looks of the F5 better. By any chance will that Felt R3 hub take an 11 speed cassette or is it 10 speed only?


----------



## FeltF75rider

The wheels on the F5 are 11 speed ready. The F5 got a screaming review in Bicycling magazine. If you plan to upgrade that would be the best route. Most likely you will upgrade other components as well so keeping the upfront cost down may not be a bad idea. I have an F2 with Di2 Integra and the shifting is amazing. Spring for the sprint shifters, they are really handy in the drops.


----------



## jedwards11

Excellent! Thanks for confirming that!


----------



## dd123

deleted


----------



## BBoneCloneMN

Dave,
If it's listed online, then sorry for missing it, but I can't figure out what brakes the Z85 has. I appreciate your answer and time spent on these boards. It's kind of amazing to get a pipeline directly to the manufacturer. 

Thank you,
Brad


----------



## Superdave3T

BBoneCloneMN said:


> Dave,
> If it's listed online, then sorry for missing it, but I can't figure out what brakes the Z85 has. I appreciate your answer and time spent on these boards. It's kind of amazing to get a pipeline directly to the manufacturer.
> 
> Thank you,
> Brad


It depends on where you are buying your Z85 and which model year but for 2014 the Z85 in the USA is equipped with Tektro's R312 calipers with a custom barrel adjuster we've designed.

-SD


----------



## ulu

I've been consistently having problems throwing my chain when downshifting the chain ring, even after changing the chain. Do you think I need to replace the chainrings?


----------



## jpaschal01

ulu said:


> I've been consistently having problems throwing my chain when downshifting the chain ring, even after changing the chain. Do you think I need to replace the chainrings?


Too many links in the chain?


----------



## bwbishop

ulu said:


> I've been consistently having problems throwing my chain when downshifting the chain ring, even after changing the chain. Do you think I need to replace the chainrings?


Sounds like you just need to adjust the lower set screw. That's a simple fix


----------



## bleckb

What's the advantage of the new Z3 frame over the 2012 design, other than being better. I"m stuck between two bikes. The 2012 has Di2 and the 2014 has Ultegra 11, of course. I'm going with upgraded wheels if I go with the 2014 (Kysrium Elite).


----------



## BBoneCloneMN

SuperdaveFelt said:


> It depends on where you are buying your Z85 and which model year but for 2014 the Z85 in the USA is equipped with Tektro's R312 calipers with a custom barrel adjuster we've designed.
> 
> -SD


Thank you!


----------



## NorCal FNG

ulu said:


> I've been consistently having problems throwing my chain when downshifting the chain ring, even after changing the chain. Do you think I need to replace the chainrings?


My Z4 threw/sucked the chain on down shifts till I got rid of the crap FSA chainrings. I went with Praxis chainrings but Shimano 105 is a direct bolt up on the FSA crank and should do the job.

With the quality chainrings I never dropped the chain again not one single time.


----------



## RoadEye

bleckb said:


> What's the advantage of the new Z3 frame over the 2012 design, other than being better. I"m stuck between two bikes. The 2012 has Di2 and the 2014 has Ultegra 11, of course. I'm going with upgraded wheels if I go with the 2014 (Kysrium Elite).


this may help... from the man himself.


----------



## Superdave3T

RoadEye said:


> this may help... from the man himself.


I need to come up with a better analogy than bubble gum. I hate talking without a script.

-SD


----------



## bleckb

What benefits does the Z3 frame redesign offer over the 2012 model?


----------



## srv256ss

Looking to get a Felt in the near future. I do triathlons and road-racing so the AR series is the best fit. I'm torn between the AR2 with the AR1 frame or building an AR FRD based frame. I have a good saddle and a set of wheels so a whole bike is somewhat overkill. I will getting DI2 so either getting the AR2 or building an Ultegra DI2 based FRD frame. The idea being I can't upgrade the frame over it's life but as the components wear out I can upgrade them to say Dura-Ace.

My request is mainly for SuperDave to compare/contrast the two frames (AR1 vs AR FRD).


----------



## T-CON

SD-

Can you enlighten me as to what the R3 disc hubs are? Are they someone else's hub rebadged or based on another companies design. I am looking for exploding diagrams and parts sources but haven't been able to find anything about them online.

I have been having problems with the rear hub loosening on the cassette side and most recently it did some damage to the outer rubber seal, hence the need for parts.

Thanks

Ted


----------



## Z'mer

*Z4 Stem replacement*

Looking to replace the stock Felt adjustable 110mm stem on a 2013 Z4 with something shorter. I want to take the bars lower, but also bring them closer. Looking for 100mm or 90mm, angle of 6-8 degrees. 

Are there any general recommendations on what not to use, or what one needs to know when getting a new stem, as this has a *carbon* *steer tube*? 
I see people discussing concerns over cutouts in the front and back of the stem, in the steer tube contact area. 
Carbon paste here, or no paste? 
Looking for the stem stack height, plus spacer, needed to replace the stock adjustable Felt stem. 

The stock stem appears to measure about 40mm in stack height, plus another 5mm or so for the tapered spacer above it. So do I get a stem with spacer that equals 45mm? 
Any recommendations for specific stems that work would be appreciated. 
I'm looking for reasonable cost, $40-60. and decent quality alloy, like Deda, Ritchey, etc. Almost bought a Deda Zero 2, but decided to check here first.


----------



## squarrosa

*Re: Stem replacement*

Yes, I was going to ask the same question re a shorter stem, maybe a 100 or a 90 for both an F4 and an F85, so I'd be interested in the answer.


----------



## anta

*2013 F1 bb30 installation*

Hi Dave,

I am building up a 2013 F1 but I am unsure whether I need to do anything when I install the BB30 bearings into the carbon shell.

Do I need to use loctite or grease? Or simply install as they are? I will be running Dura Ace crank with the 24mm reducers. I realise I don't need to use the circlips as there is a lip already in the shell, but what about the nylon washers that come with the FSA bearings?

Great forum btw - already found answers to other questions I had! 

Thanks,

Anthony


----------



## Superdave3T

anta said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I am building up a 2013 F1 but I am unsure whether I need to do anything when I install the BB30 bearings into the carbon shell.
> 
> Do I need to use loctite or grease? Or simply install as they are? I will be running Dura Ace crank with the 24mm reducers. I realise I don't need to use the circlips as there is a lip already in the shell, but what about the nylon washers that come with the FSA bearings?
> 
> Great forum btw - already found answers to other questions I had!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Anthony


I use anti-sieze, not grease. I wouldn't advise lock-tite.
-Dave


----------



## namkrad

Hi,
I´m looking at the Felt Breed but it´s not available in Sweden (or europe) 
Is it too small a niche over here?
/J


----------



## Superdave3T

namkrad said:


> Hi,
> I´m looking at the Felt Breed but it´s not available in Sweden (or europe)
> Is it too small a niche over here?
> /J


Namkrad,

I'm afraid you are right. In fact until a couple years ago our entire cyclo-cross line wasn't offered by most of our European distributors. I think only the UK guys brought the Breed in. Now you'll find most of the models are offered throughout Europe but the Breed remains a North American model for 2014 and will disappear altogether in 2015.

-evaD


----------



## namkrad

OK, thanks.
Shame taking it out as sscx is coming on strong.


----------



## dd123

Hi SD,

Wondering if the frame of 2015 Felt Z3 any different than Z5 since the price different is $1300.
The only upgrade I see is: 105 to Ultegra, FSA Omega to FSA Energy.

Thanks

DD





SuperdaveFelt said:


> Frame,
> Fork,
> Bar,
> Stem,
> Post,
> Saddle,
> Tubes,
> Tires,
> Wheels,
> Brakes,
> Crankset,
> BB,
> Cables,
> Cosmetic finish,
> 
> Also the sales volume is ~10:1.
> 
> Look at the complete technical specification listed on the website, compare the cost of every part and you'll get an idea of the price difference.


----------



## Superdave3T

dd123 said:


> Hi SD,
> 
> Wondering if the frame of 2015 Felt Z3 any different than Z5 since the price different is $1300.
> The only upgrade I see is: 105 to Ultegra, FSA Omega to FSA Energy.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> DD


The frameset is upgraded over the Z5 along with those details you've noted. Also the wheels, tires, tubes, saddle and other small bits.


----------



## dd123

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The frameset is upgraded over the Z5 along with those details you've noted. Also the wheels, tires, tubes, saddle and other small bits.



Thanks SD,

The felt website should have details about the frame difference. I could not find them in website.

Taken from website:


Z5 Frame:
Felt Endurance Road UHC Performance carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing


Z3 Frame:
Felt Endurance Road UHC Performance carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing



Z2 Frame:
Felt Endurance Road UHC Advanced carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, 7075 CNC aluminum replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing


----------



## Superdave3T

dd123 said:


> Thanks SD,
> 
> The felt website should have details about the frame difference. I could not find them in website.
> 
> Taken from website:
> 
> 
> Z5 Frame:
> Felt Endurance Road UHC Performance carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing
> 
> 
> Z3 Frame:
> Felt Endurance Road UHC Performance carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing
> 
> 
> 
> Z2 Frame:
> Felt Endurance Road UHC Advanced carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, BB30 & dropouts, 7075 CNC aluminum replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic-compatible internal cable routing


You get the monocoque fork on the Z3 along with the Di2 cable routing option bits included.


----------



## srv256ss

SuperDave,

sent a a pm regarding availability of getting an ar FRD frame in Arizona. Any idea when the next shipment will arrive?


----------



## dd123

SuperdaveFelt said:


> You get the monocoque fork on the Z3 along with the Di2 cable routing option bits included.


Thanks SuperDave for taking time to answer my questions that too promptly.


----------



## blaf

Hi SuperDave,

do you know real weight of Z4 2014 for size 58 and 61?

thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

blaf said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> do you know real weight of Z4 2014 for size 58 and 61?
> thanks


No, I'm afraid I do not. There isn't a catalog of built and assembled bicycles in our office in every size to check. I would guess the 61cm is about 200g heavier FWIW.


----------



## igotyofire

blaf said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> do you know real weight of Z4 2014 for size 58 and 61?
> 
> thanks


my 61cm 2013 Z4 weighed about 17lbs-18lbs area I believe when I picked up from my LBS. I cannot remember if that was with pedals, But I want to say once they removed the plastic reflectors on the wheels it was like a high 17 on the shop scale. This was over a year ago, I'll see if I have it in an old post anywhere

Edit: I cant find it but I hope that gives you some idea.


----------



## blaf

igotyofire said:


> my 61cm 2013 Z4 weighed about 17lbs-18lbs area I believe when I picked up from my LBS. I cannot remember if that was with pedals, But I want to say once they removed the plastic reflectors on the wheels it was like a high 17 on the shop scale. This was over a year ago, I'll see if I have it in an old post anywhere
> 
> Edit: I cant find it but I hope that gives you some idea.



Thanks igotyofire.

I hoped in little bit lower weight but if it has 17lbs it's ok. Lighter wheelset and carbon handlebar will get it lower.


----------



## chudak

blaf said:


> Thanks igotyofire.
> 
> I hoped in little bit lower weight but if it has 17lbs it's ok. Lighter wheelset and carbon handlebar will get it lower.


Seriously...by the time you add a couple full water bottles and a saddle bag with a couple tubes and CO2 it's gonna be over 20lbs anyways. You are by far the heaviest thing on that bike by an order of magnitude.


----------



## NorCal FNG

blaf said:


> Thanks igotyofire.
> 
> I hoped in little bit lower weight but if it has 17lbs it's ok. Lighter wheelset and carbon handlebar will get it lower.


The stock Felt bars are super light for aluminum(290 grams if I remember correctly). When I switched to FSA carbon bars I saved something like 40 grams, not worth the investment other then the improved vibration dampening of carbon bars. You can save 100+ grams with a lighter saddle. Another cheap way to loose grams is super light skewers saving in the 70 gram range for a fraction of the cost of carbon bars


----------



## arctic biker

Just upgraded Microshifters-levers for Ultegra 10spd. Front-upshifting is not what I expexted. Measured chainline with Sram Rival cranks, 45,5mm. My F85 2011 frame out of specs?
Not a big deal anyway, just surprised.


----------



## Superdave3T

arctic biker said:


> Just upgraded Microshifters-levers for Ultegra 10spd. Front-upshifting is not what I expexted. Measured chainline with Sram Rival cranks, 45,5mm. My F85 2011 frame out of specs?
> Not a big deal anyway, just surprised.


Your F85 frame didn't come with RIVAL cranks. if the chainline is off, it could be the crankset, no?


----------



## RoadEye

Super Dave,

Question from a dumb move. I finally got the Felt bottle cages to complete my Z1 (will post pictures soon). While swapping out cages out for the last time, I dropped one of the bolts, which then proceeded to roll underneath the baseboard and into a crack in the floor never to be retrieved. Ugh. Was in the shop this weekend, for something unrelated (was not going to make a special trip for this, that would be ridiculous) and they did not have 'em. Search online and came up empty. Are those "Felt" bolts, the red ones, sold separately? I know it's a minor thing but, every time I see that silver bolt it is going to bug the hell out of me.

thanks

Michael


----------



## Superdave3T

RoadEye said:


> Super Dave,
> 
> Question from a dumb move. I finally got the Felt bottle cages to complete my Z1 (will post pictures soon). While swapping out cages out for the last time, I dropped one of the bolts, which then proceeded to roll underneath the baseboard and into a crack in the floor never to be retrieved. Ugh. Was in the shop this weekend, for something unrelated (was not going to make a special trip for this, that would be ridiculous) and they did not have 'em. Search online and came up empty. Are those "Felt" bolts, the red ones, sold separately? I know it's a minor thing but, every time I see that silver bolt it is going to bug the hell out of me.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Michael


Michael,

Those custom "FELT" logo-ed RED anodized 7075 AL bolts are only used on our complete bikes like your Z1 and a few other FRD projects. I'm afraid we don't sell them as aftermarket items. They would be about $40 for a set of four making them cost-prohibitive as aftermarket pieces.

My advice? Get 3 more silver bolts.

Or if you want to send me your address I'll dig around and see if there are any orphaned bolts here at our office. No promises though.

-SD


----------



## RoadEye

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Michael,
> 
> Those custom "FELT" logo-ed RED anodized 7075 AL bolts are only used on our complete bikes like your Z1 and a few other FRD projects. I'm afraid we don't sell them as aftermarket items. They would be about $40 for a set of four making them cost-prohibitive as aftermarket pieces.
> 
> My advice? Get 3 more silver bolts.
> 
> Or if you want to send me your address I'll dig around and see if there are any orphaned bolts here at our office. No promises though.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave. Don't go crazy looking for one, I know this is my ocd working but, if you do come across an orphaned bolt, that would be great. I will pm you my address as soon as your inbox ain't so full.

--Michael


----------



## arctic biker

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Your F85 frame didn't come with RIVAL cranks. if the chainline is off, it could be the crankset, no?


Thanks but no!


----------



## srenkin

Superdave,

I have a 2011 F4 (great bike). While swapping out my trainer wheel for my road wheel this weekend, I noticed that the paint coat is peeling away from the outside of the left rear dropout (starts where the skewer clamps on, and spreads up to the chainstay about 3/8" inch). Is this something a drop of superglue can remedy, or an indication of something more serious? Hoping it's nothing - thanks!


----------



## arctic biker

Quote Originally Posted by arctic biker View Post
Just upgraded Microshifters-levers for Ultegra 10spd. Front-upshifting is not what I expexted. Measured chainline with Sram Rival cranks, 45,5mm. My F85 2011 frame out of specs?
Not a big deal anyway, just surprised.
Your F85 frame didn't come with RIVAL cranks. if the chainline is off, it could be the crankset, no? 

Hmm, just trying to tell that it could be good info for your faraway manufacturer to get bottom brackets properly centered. Anyway my F85 is nice bike to ride, current weight is 7.91kg with pedals and fixed computer parts and with one botle gage.
I paid 623€ for fully builded bike. If I ever could afford carbon Felt, crying almost.


----------



## Superdave3T

arctic biker said:


> Quote Originally Posted by arctic biker View Post
> Just upgraded Microshifters-levers for Ultegra 10spd. Front-upshifting is not what I expexted. Measured chainline with Sram Rival cranks, 45,5mm. My F85 2011 frame out of specs?
> Not a big deal anyway, just surprised.
> Your F85 frame didn't come with RIVAL cranks. if the chainline is off, it could be the crankset, no?
> 
> Hmm, just trying to tell that it could be good info for your faraway manufacturer to get bottom brackets properly centered. Anyway my F85 is nice bike to ride, current weight is 7.91kg with pedals and fixed computer parts and with one botle gage.
> I paid 623€ for fully builded bike. If I ever could afford carbon Felt, crying almost.


If the BB shell is truly welded off-center by 2mm (45.5mm vs. 43.5mm) then the frame is well outside the tolerance we allow for chainline dimension and frame symmetry. The frame would have had to slip passed 3 separate QA steps in Taiwan and your dealer's own QC assembly check during delivery. Facing the BB shell could alleviate the problem if the defect is verified by a Felt Dealer or possibly a frame replacement could be required.

I've never seen a frame 2mm out of tolerance but I'd encourage you to get the bike looked at by a Felt Dealer if you're in search of a solution.

-SD


----------



## Skyhawke

*Micro adjust seat question*

Ok, I have had my Z5 for all of two days now and have a question about adjusting the angle of have seat. I see the guide and the nut to turn to lower the nose of my seat but I have a noob question on how to turn said nut. I am paranoid of over torquing anything on my new CF bike. Do I just grab a small set of pliers and turn the nut, or is there something else that has to be loosened before I turn the nut? 


The nose of my seat has to come down ever so slightly.


----------



## Superdave3T

Skyhawke said:


> Ok, I have had my Z5 for all of two days now and have a question about adjusting the angle of have seat. I see the guide and the nut to turn to lower the nose of my seat but I have a noob question on how to turn said nut. I am paranoid of over torquing anything on my new CF bike. Do I just grab a small set of pliers and turn the nut, or is there something else that has to be loosened before I turn the nut?
> 
> 
> The nose of my seat has to come down ever so slightly.


Loosen the M6 bolt at the back of the seatpost first. Then turn the thumb-wheel to drop the nose down. Finally, re-torque the rear bolt which will bring the nose back up but lower than before.

-Dave


----------



## ethang75

Superdave,
I bought a felt fc frameset last summer. I set it up with my mechanical ultegra 6700 group. I am buying dura ace 7970 from my boss (10speed for junior racing cassette). I looked on the felt site, but am not sure what i need to buy for the di2 cables to fit in my bike. 
thanks!


----------



## igotyofire

Does anyone know the rider weight limit approx for a 2013 Felt Z4(size 61cm)? The only thing I could find online was around 230lbs for Felt road bikes on a distributors website.


----------



## Redley78

I have a 2014 Felt AR5. I recently upgraded the groupo from the stock 105 to Sram Red. However the rear brake is not compatible with the direct mounting style of the AR.
Do you know where i could find a direct mount rear brake for my AR5? Sram Red would be preferable, but would consider others, like DA or similar quality. 
Thanks,
Mark


----------



## Skyhawke

Can I fit 28's on my Z5?

I found a thread somewhere out here that said they wouldn't fit on an Fx, I am hoping the Z5 might have a little extra room.


----------



## STRANA

I've never had the chance to really compare carbon vs. alloy handle bars but always wondered is there a difference in vibration absorption?


----------



## tigerleghorn

Hi Dave,

Some advice on fork replacement please. I have a 2011 Z85 and I'm looking to replace the factory fitted carbon/Alu set. I can buy the Felt Carbon Road fork 1.2 for Z-series MY08 - MY12 All Frame Sizes from Felt Europe. Will these forks work with my Alu Z85 and which headset do I need?

Thanks SD


----------



## Superdave3T

tigerleghorn said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Some advice on fork replacement please. I have a 2011 Z85 and I'm looking to replace the factory fitted carbon/Alu set. I can buy the Felt Carbon Road fork 1.2 for Z-series MY08 - MY12 All Frame Sizes from Felt Europe. Will these forks work with my Alu Z85 and which headset do I need?
> 
> Thanks SD


Yes, that fork will fit in your frame. The Z85 uses the 50mm offset. The headset in your frame is a Cane Creek IS-2 standard. It can be reused if you swap the crown race off your old fork onto the new one.

You'll need a compression device that is compatible with the fork if it is not included.

-Dave


----------



## tigerleghorn

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, that fork will fit in your frame. The Z85 uses the 50mm offset. The headset in your frame is a Cane Creek IS-2 standard. It can be reused if you swap the crown race off your old fork onto the new one.
> 
> You'll need a compression device that is compatible with the fork if it is not included.
> 
> -Dave


That's great, Thanks for your quick response SD

This full carbon fork is on offer for $180 delivered from Germany.......bargain!!


----------



## krankenstein

Hi SuperDave,

I am planning to build up a Felt FC 51cm with Di2, can you let me know what lengths e-tube wiring I need to order? I plan to run the internal battery. I know I need the under stem junction box, and the internal version of the junction at the bottom bracket. Just need to know what length and how many of the e-tube wiring to order, thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> I am planning to build up a Felt FC 51cm with Di2, can you let me know what lengths e-tube wiring I need to order? I plan to run the internal battery. I know I need the under stem junction box, and the internal version of the junction at the bottom bracket. Just need to know what length and how many of the e-tube wiring to order, thanks in advance.


K,

The e-tube lengths will depend on your placement and components to some degree. For ST to Junction A you could probably use 300mm unless you've got really wide bars and a long stem or plan to run a very low hoods position. Plan on 2 x 300mm for the bar. For Junction A to JC41 internal Junction B you can use the stem length plus headset stack plus head tube length plus downtube length if you want a precise length but for the OEM bicycles I use a longer than required wire so installation and/or servicing/shipping of the bike can be made easier. You can probably just get a 1000mm wire here and stuff the extra inside the frame. Another nice benefit here is if you snag a wire loading the bike in the car or while wheeling it past some obstacle you'll have a bit of slack to tug before you yank the plug out. The internal battery is another area that can be easily estimated by just copying your saddle height and buying that length but here again, I use the longest wire on the OEM production bikes so the seatpost can move throughout its full range without puting tension on the wire. Your seat tube is ~48cm long, your seatpost could be as much as 350mm long. I'd get a 900mm length at a minimum but the extra 300mm of a 1200mm wire might be convenient. Front derailleur wire can be 350mm and rear derailleur 450mm. That gives you a bit of extra slack so you can move the components around without disconnecting the e-tube.

You'll need 6 wires total and in general if you're running them inside a Felt frame there is no risk in buying them a bit long and hiding the extra length inside.

I'd encourage you to buy SW-610 as well. These extra buttons make riding in the drops so much more comfortable and if positioned just right you can reach them with your pinky from the tops as well.

-SD


----------



## Skyhawke

Skyhawke said:


> Can I fit 28's on my Z5?
> 
> I found a thread somewhere out here that said they wouldn't fit on an Fx, I am hoping the Z5 might have a little extra room.


Dave, do you know if this is possible?

Summer is coming on, I will be taking my bike with us to the campground we spend most of our summer at. I have about a 1 mile dirt road to navigate until I get to the pavement which is typical New England backroad quality (after a long crappy winter). I was hoping to slap some 28's on my Z5 to help combat this, but would rather not find out after I get the tires that there is no way.

Thanks in advance,


----------



## Superdave3T

Skyhawke said:


> Dave, do you know if this is possible?
> 
> Summer is coming on, I will be taking my bike with us to the campground we spend most of our summer at. I have about a 1 mile dirt road to navigate until I get to the pavement which is typical New England backroad quality (after a long crappy winter). I was hoping to slap some 28's on my Z5 to help combat this, but would rather not find out after I get the tires that there is no way.
> 
> Thanks in advance,


Yes, they'll fit. I would HIGHLY recommend the Paris-Roubaix tire from Challenge in their open tubular casing. Probably the best riding tire available today and far more supple than the typical 127tpi 28mm tires you'll find. Very few wire tires are available with performance casing and the Challenge adds a puncture resistant bent under the tread to boot.

I'm hooked.

-SD

-SD


----------



## Skyhawke

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, they'll fit. I would HIGHLY recommend the Paris-Roubaix tire from Challenge in their open tubular casing. Probably the best riding tire available today and far more supple than the typical 127tpi 28mm tires you'll find. Very few wire tires are available with performance casing and the Challenge adds a puncture resistant bent under the tread to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm hooked.
> 
> -SD
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave, I'm googling now ;-)

I was just investigating whether a new set of brakes would help with clearance, guess I don't need to now.

I know I've said it before in other thread(s), but I really love my 2014 Z5. You guys really got this one right. It has helped this 45 year old noob on wheels place in the top ten on a local Strava course (not that this is going to help Felt's reputation any, but it certainly helps my ego).


----------



## PBE

srenkin said:


> Superdave,
> 
> I have a 2011 F4 (great bike). While swapping out my trainer wheel for my road wheel this weekend, I noticed that the paint coat is peeling away from the outside of the left rear dropout (starts where the skewer clamps on, and spreads up to the chainstay about 3/8" inch). Is this something a drop of superglue can remedy, or an indication of something more serious? Hoping it's nothing - thanks!


Superdave,

I have an 2011 AR5 that is doing exactly the same thing that is described above. On mine it is limited to the clear coat surrounding the skewer. Any advice on action that can be taken to insure the integrity of the area remains? Thanks as always!


----------



## krankenstein

Thanks for the super detail response, I will add the SW-610 to my list!


----------



## FeltF75rider

If the SW-61​0 refers to the sprint shifters one on each left and right drop the I concur. These are awsome. I keep looking for them on my mechanical bike because I use them a lot when I ride the Di2 bike.


----------



## twincamRob

New to the forum and road biking. Picked up a used Felt and trying to figure out what exactly it is and what size, since it's been repainted it's hard to tell. Was told it is a 2009ish Z frame 53cm. 

Can you tell me by the serial number what it is? If so the numbers are FT394-50 S1BT01206.

And lastly, are all the welds supposed to be smoothed except for the bottom bracket/crank area? Just trying to figure the reason for the shotty paint job. 

Thanks!


----------



## twincamRob

New to the forum and road biking. Picked up a used Felt and trying to figure out what exactly it is and what size, since it's been repainted it's hard to tell. Was told it is a 2009ish Z frame 53cm. 


Can you tell me by the serial number what it is? If so the numbers are FT394-50 S1BT01206. 

Also, are all the welds supposed to be smoothed except for the bottom bracket/crank area? Just trying to find the reason for the shotty paint job lol. 

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

twincamRob said:


> New to the forum and road biking. Picked up a used Felt and trying to figure out what exactly it is and what size, since it's been repainted it's hard to tell. Was told it is a 2009ish Z frame 53cm.
> 
> 
> Can you tell me by the serial number what it is? If so the numbers are FT394-50 S1BT01206.
> 
> Also, are all the welds supposed to be smoothed except for the bottom bracket/crank area? Just trying to find the reason for the shotty paint job lol.
> 
> Thanks!


A photo would help. Z frames are not made in a 53cm. If it has a 53cm long seat tube, it is a 56cm size.

Smooth welds are not used at the BB area to maintain the highest possible strength here.

-SD


----------



## twincamRob

SuperdaveFelt said:


> A photo would help. Z frames are not made in a 53cm. If it has a 53cm long seat tube, it is a 56cm size.
> 
> Smooth welds are not used at the BB area to maintain the highest possible strength here.
> 
> -SD


Sorry for the double post, having issues with the forum. For some reason it will not let me see past page 38 in this thread unless I log out. :mad2::mad2:



Anyways, here's some pics. I'm guessing the -50 in the serial number refers to it being a 50cm frame (from measurement). So what exactly do I have as I'm not very steeped in the Felt line-ups, Z..Z1...Z85? And year? The bike has 100% Ultegra parts fwiw. 


























































Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## STRANA

Not sure why but the forums format the threads in "hybrid" which is the reason the threads don't show things past a certain page properly. Go to your setting and change the thread view from "hybrid" to "Linear". Just recently found this solution trying to follow this very thread. 

Happy reading all


----------



## JoeFeltF5

Hi Dave
I have a Felt F5, which is far and away the best bike I've ever ridden or owned. Unfortunately I had a car bump into the back of me yesterday, luckily only minor scrapes for me, but the bike has a bent rear wheel. My LBS says he can likely straighten it out, but I'm wondering if there is some way to ensure the Carbon frame is safe to ride. At this point there are no visible cracks or breaks, all joins (like forks and bottom bracket) seem fine. I'd appreciate any tips you might have.

Thanks
Joe
P.s Are Mavic CXP22 available if I need to by a replacement or else what wheel would you recommend, currently riding about 160km per week,


----------



## bleckb

I've found the CXP22s to be readily available with a Shimano 2200 hub. I wouldn't pay more than $100 from your lbs.


----------



## JoeFeltF5

Hi Bradley
Thanks for the info.
Safe Riding
Joe


----------



## dbf73

SD - I'm a little confused about tightening the saddle clamp on my AR. The sticker on the rounded part of the seatpost says tighten to 12-14 nm max but p. 5 of the owners manual says 10-12 nm and p 8 says 5 nm. help?


----------



## phrantic

I have the option of getting a 2013 f75 now,or waiting for a 2014 to come in. is there any difference in the frame over the 2 years? I notice the description is slightly different on the 14 website and mentions that it is hydroformed while the 13 doesn't.


----------



## FeltF75rider

It's the same frame, same bike really. Other than paint scheme. How much off for being last years model?. Personally I like the 2013 paint more but that is just me. I would go for the 2013 and pick up some gear with the savings if that is an option. You will be happy either way.


----------



## phrantic

I get them both for the same price, 1150. I'm not sure which colorway I like better if all things are equal


----------



## phrantic

Just so I'm clear, the 2013 f75 was also hydroformed?


----------



## ConomaBike

Hi All,


I'm getting into Tri's and my first option for a tri bike is the B12 or B14 but given my weight and road conditions where I ride I would really like to be able to use 25mm tires (at least).


So, is it possible to fit 25mm in the 2014 B series?


Which other Tri bikes can take 25mm tires?


If not possible then I might look into getting an AR5…


Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

ConomaBike said:


> Hi All,
> 
> 
> I'm getting into Tri's and my first option for a tri bike is the B12 or B14 but given my weight and road conditions where I ride I would really like to be able to use 25mm tires (at least).
> 
> 
> So, is it possible to fit 25mm in the 2014 B series?
> 
> 
> Which other Tri bikes can take 25mm tires?
> 
> 
> If not possible then I might look into getting an AR5…
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, you can use 25mm tires on the B12 and B14.

-Dave


----------



## FeltF75rider

phrantic said:


> Just so I'm clear, the 2013 f75 was also hydroformed?


Yes only difference is the paint. Frame is same from 2011 to current year.


----------



## marckap

Hi there im looking for overall info on a 2012 zc I have an opportunity to pick one up with duraace di2 it seems to be very close to a newer roubaix comfortable yet more racier then the older roubaix. Any info or specifics on the frame would be appreciated as there is not much info out there on it. A few years back I had a F1C.


----------



## pedalingsquares

Hi SuperdaveFelt :

I have been working at a shop for 12 years and since have made a change. I now work with a young guy who sells Scott and Felt. My EP discount is quite nice, so I am looking at the F Series.. maybe the F1 FRD. I have been on Cannondale Evo's, Caad10's and those fit me well. Also recently I had a Large TCR Advanced SL which also seems to work. I ride typically a 58. I have long arms but would like to have a headtube 17-18cm..top tube 57-58.5. 
I am looking for some suggestions which direction to go. I can buy the frameset and custom build the bike (which I prefer to do). Any help would be great as I have to buy something this week. Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

pedalingsquares said:


> Hi SuperdaveFelt :
> 
> I have been working at a shop for 12 years and since have made a change. I now work with a young guy who sells Scott and Felt. My EP discount is quite nice, so I am looking at the F Series.. maybe the F1 FRD. I have been on Cannondale Evo's, Caad10's and those fit me well. Also recently I had a Large TCR Advanced SL which also seems to work. I ride typically a 58. I have long arms but would like to have a headtube 17-18cm..top tube 57-58.5.
> I am looking for some suggestions which direction to go. I can buy the frameset and custom build the bike (which I prefer to do). Any help would be great as I have to buy something this week. Thanks


I'm jealous. I'd love to own an F FRD (not called an F1 FRD) or an AR FRD! The USA distributor indeed makes it a point to enable our dealers to purchase Felt bicycles at incredibly low prices, lower than what I pay for them! There is so little risk for you I'm not sure why you wouldn't get an F FRD. If you didn't like it for some reason (?) you could easily pass it along to the 2nd owner without any loss.

I certainly would encourage you to buy the Felt over the Scott, Cannondale, or Giant 

With that said, unless you are climbing hills of greater than ~6-8% and require your relative output to be at its highest ratio at a given input on the steep stuff, the AR FRD is really a better bike if you are competition minded.

-SD

-SD


----------



## rickdees

I read in Bike Rumor that the 2015 Z2 will have disc brakes. Will any other 2015 Z model have disc brakes?


----------



## rickdees

Besides the 2015 Z2, will any other Z model have disc brakes?


----------



## Superdave3T

rickdees said:


> I read in Bike Rumor that the 2015 Z2 will have disc brakes. Will any other 2015 Z model have disc brakes?


Yes!

-SD


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes!
> 
> -SD


Dave,

Will we see any SRAM options on the AR for 2015?


----------



## Superdave3T

ChemicalreAgent said:


> Dave,
> Will we see any SRAM options on the AR for 2015?


That depends on where you are located.
View attachment 296232


-SD


----------



## riccardo123

Hello, a quick question from the UK. I am lining up a road bike purchase which will probably be a Felt Z5, but my question is about my commuter bike, which is a 2010 vintage QX65. At its last service the guy said that the drivetrain, whilst fine at the moment, will wear out in the next couple of years. In an ideal world I would like to fit a road compact crank to replace the Suntour triple (48/38/28) which came with the bike; so firstly, is this possible? And secondly, which other components will I have to swap to be compatible? I have read that mountain bike mechs and shifters will not work with a road crank.

Thanks in advance...


----------



## Superdave3T

riccardo123 said:


> Hello, a quick question from the UK. I am lining up a road bike purchase which will probably be a Felt Z5, but my question is about my commuter bike, which is a 2010 vintage QX65. At its last service the guy said that the drivetrain, whilst fine at the moment, will wear out in the next couple of years. In an ideal world I would like to fit a road compact crank to replace the Suntour triple (48/38/28) which came with the bike; so firstly, is this possible? And secondly, which other components will I have to swap to be compatible? I have read that mountain bike mechs and shifters will not work with a road crank.
> 
> Thanks in advance...


Riccardo,

You'll need to pick up a front derailleur, too. Shimano makes their CX50/70 in a top pull option that will shift 50/34t. No need to change the shifters as you can set up the cable tension and limit screws to work with a double just fine. Just run the cable slack to reduce the shifter pull stroke and it'll be fine. I don't recall if you've got a 73mm BB shell on that era of frame. If so you'll need to face it down to ~68mm to use a Shimano Hollowtech II road BB or you can opt for a 3pc crankset from FSA or others that'll let you skip the frame facing.

-SD


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

SuperdaveFelt said:


> That depends on where you are located.
> View attachment 296232
> 
> 
> -SD


The link gives me an invalid attachment message.


----------



## riccardo123

Thanks Dave. I guess I'll just have to measure the BB shell, I have no idea whether it is 68mm or 73mm.


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

SuperdaveFelt said:


> That depends on where you are located.
> View attachment 296232
> 
> 
> -SD


I can't open the attachment, but I'm in the US.


----------



## Zerg

Can a 2011 Felt F5 fit 25mm tires comfortably? It came with 23mm, I just wanted to make sure before I buy new ones. Seems like the consensus is 25mm, I just want to make sure they will fit without a problem. Thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

Zerg said:


> Can a 2011 Felt F5 fit 25mm tires comfortably? It came with 23mm, I just wanted to make sure before I buy new ones. Seems like the consensus is 25mm, I just want to make sure they will fit without a problem. Thanks.


Yes. 25mm tires are no problem on the F-series bikes except the F95 Jr.

-SD


----------



## lowayne

From a comfort perspective, what is the difference between the VariMount Aero Road seatpost on the AR4 and the higher end seatpost w/ 3T DiffLock™ Comfort Module? I want a happy rear end!


----------



## Superdave3T

lowayne said:


> From a comfort perspective, what is the difference between the VariMount Aero Road seatpost on the AR4 and the higher end seatpost w/ 3T DiffLock™ Comfort Module? I want a happy rear end!


Night & day
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

JoeFeltF5 said:


> Hi Dave
> I have a Felt F5, which is far and away the best bike I've ever ridden or owned. Unfortunately I had a car bump into the back of me yesterday, luckily only minor scrapes for me, but the bike has a bent rear wheel. My LBS says he can likely straighten it out, but I'm wondering if there is some way to ensure the Carbon frame is safe to ride. At this point there are no visible cracks or breaks, all joins (like forks and bottom bracket) seem fine. I'd appreciate any tips you might have.
> 
> Thanks
> Joe
> P.s Are Mavic CXP22 available if I need to by a replacement or else what wheel would you recommend, currently riding about 160km per week,


There really isn't an affordable (commercial) way to determine if the structure of the frame was damaged.
MAVIC's Open Pro is a similar shape and more common as an aftermarket rim than the CXP22 but you should be able to get either (or the CXP33 even) from your LBS via MAVIC.
-SD


----------



## lowayne

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Night & day
> -SD


Thanks man - your responses in internet forums are a contributing reason as to why I am hoping to grab a Felt. 

I applaud the R&D for the seat post but it does provide an upgrade dilemma since the base level seat post can't be used for anything else when replaced. I could always use the old post to replace my office chair at work .


----------



## Superdave3T

lowayne said:


> Thanks man - your responses in internet forums are a contributing reason as to why I am hoping to grab a Felt.
> 
> I applaud the R&D for the seat post but it does provide an upgrade dilemma since the base level seat post can't be used for anything else when replaced. I could always use the old post to replace my office chair at work .


Maybe you can use the original VM seatpost to be set up with a triathlon saddle in a forward position and you can add on some multi-sport use to your AR with some aerobars.

-Dave


----------



## villain

Hello,
I'm looking to buy new Felt F75 online and I have noticed it's available in Europe in two crankset options: 
-BB30/FSA Omega
-Threaded BB/Shimano R565.

Since I'm not a BB30 fan I like the second option better.
Are there really two different frames or is there adapter used to install hollowtech cranks?


----------



## Superdave3T

villain said:


> Hello,
> I'm looking to buy new Felt F75 online and I have noticed it's available in Europe in two crankset options:
> -BB30/FSA Omega
> -Threaded BB/Shimano R565.
> 
> Since I'm not a BB30 fan I like the second option better.
> Are there really two different frames or is there adapter used to install hollowtech cranks?


There really are 3 different frames 

Depending on the where you are buying from on the planet, the specifications will vary. We make both BB30 and 68mm threaded shell F75 bicycles in 2014.
-Dave


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> There really are 3 different frames
> 
> Depending on the where you are buying from on the planet, the specifications will vary. We make both BB30 and 68mm threaded shell F75 bicycles in 2014.
> -Dave


Can you order the bike with the threaded frame in the US?


----------



## Superdave3T

SundayNiagara said:


> Can you order the bike with the threaded frame in the US?


In 5 weeks you can.
-SD


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> In 5 weeks you can.
> -SD


Thanks, this looks worth waiting for. Could you please elaborate?


----------



## Superdave3T

SundayNiagara said:


> Thanks, this looks worth waiting for. Could you please elaborate?


In 5 weeks you'll be able to order the F75 from the USA with a threaded bottom bracket. Today this option is not available in the USA.
-SD


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> In 5 weeks you'll be able to order the F75 from the USA with a threaded bottom bracket. Today this option is not available in the USA.
> -SD


And what about other bikes, such as the "Z" series?


----------



## Superdave3T

SundayNiagara said:


> And what about other bikes, such as the "Z" series?


Some Z-series models are already available with threaded BB shells and better yet, the 2015 versions of these Z series bikes are in stock and shipping to your local Felt dealers now.

-SD


----------



## aaric

Ok, so I'm looking at my small parts bag that came with my AR FRD frame...

Can't figure out what the two small, long red anodized bolts are for? Looks like a 2 or 2.5mm allen on a button head, and about 20mm long.


----------



## Superdave3T

aaric said:


> Ok, so I'm looking at my small parts bag that came with my AR FRD frame...
> 
> Can't figure out what the two small, long red anodized bolts are for? Looks like a 2 or 2.5mm allen on a button head, and about 20mm long.


They fit in the threaded bosses under the downtube for the old external Di2 battery mount or Campagnolo EPS power unit. They are simply fancy plugs for those threaded bosses.

-SD


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Some Z-series models are already available with threaded BB shells and better yet, the 2015 versions of these Z series bikes are in stock and shipping to your local Felt dealers now.
> 
> -SD


Thanks, I'll be watching for the Z5,


----------



## aaric

SuperdaveFelt said:


> They fit in the threaded bosses under the downtube for the old external Di2 battery mount or Campagnolo EPS power unit. They are simply fancy plugs for those threaded bosses.
> 
> -SD


Ah! Great, thanks for the clarification.


----------



## JimmyORCA

So lucky of you to get your hands on the AR FRD!!! Can you take some pics of the frame, so far have only seen the once in magazines.



aaric said:


> Ok, so I'm looking at my small parts bag that came with my AR FRD frame...
> 
> Can't figure out what the two small, long red anodized bolts are for? Looks like a 2 or 2.5mm allen on a button head, and about 20mm long.


----------



## Maglore

Hi Dave,

I'm seriously considering buying a Felt AR5 but I have a question regarding sizing.

I'm a 5'4'' tall man and I currently ride a 48cm Cayo Evo. I'm long in leg (75cm inside leg), but short in body and need an 80mm stem and a seatpost with minimal layback to make my Cayo fit me well. My Cayo has a TT length of 520mm and I run a 10mm headset spacer under the stem, which gives me a stack height of 514mm.

According to the Felt website, a 51cm AR5 is best for somebody of my overall height, but I can't help feeling that a 530mm TT length would be too much of a stretch for me (I don't want to resort to a 70mm stem) and a stack of 523mm would be too high for my liking, especially as I'll be considering using the bike for the odd time trial. Unfortunately I can't arrange a test ride as there are no Felt dealers near me.

Finally, I've tried to find some pics of a 48cm and 51cm 2014 AR, but have been unable to find one. I think it would be a great idea if manufacturers put up pictures of their bikes in their various sizes on their websites. Perhaps this is something to consider? To me, this would show excellent customer orientated attention to detail and might even persuade people to buy a Felt instead of something else.


----------



## arctic biker

SuperdaveFelt said:


> In 5 weeks you'll be able to order the F75 from the USA with a threaded bottom bracket. Today this option is not available in the USA.
> -SD


I think this possibility to still get bikes with BSA-bottom brackets is very good!


----------



## loxx0050

Hey SD, I have a 2012 B12 with the stock TRP brakeset and was wondering how wide a wheel can I fit in there? Will a HED Stinger wheel fit in there? (they are listed as 28mm wide). 

I currently am running a HED Jet with the C2 23mm wide rim and it fits no problems (it took some effort to get the brakes adjusted properly though...those TRP's are PITA's to adjust). From the looks of it the C2+ appears to be able to fit too (25mm wide). But unsure of if their Stinger line will fit. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> Hey SD, I have a 2012 B12 with the stock TRP brakeset and was wondering how wide a wheel can I fit in there? Will a HED Stinger wheel fit in there? (they are listed as 28mm wide).
> 
> I currently am running a HED Jet with the C2 23mm wide rim and it fits no problems (it took some effort to get the brakes adjusted properly though...those TRP's are PITA's to adjust). From the looks of it the C2+ appears to be able to fit too (25mm wide). But unsure of if their Stinger line will fit.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Yes, the HED wheels with the shims removed from the pads and the Shimano -1 thin carbon brake pads installed.

-SD


----------



## philippeya

Superdave and others, do you have any tips on Di2 installation on a F1X? 

There is a di2 sticker on the underside of the BB shell, so I assume it's di2 ready, but there is no holes inside the shell. How do I install the wires and junction box?

Thanks,
Philippe


----------



## Superdave3T

philippeya said:


> Superdave and others, do you have any tips on Di2 installation on a F1X?
> 
> There is a di2 sticker on the underside of the BB shell, so I assume it's di2 ready, but there is no holes inside the shell. How do I install the wires and junction box?
> 
> Thanks,
> Philippe


The wires and junction fit inside the frame under the BB shell. The entire lower structure is hollow. See our website for times on installation.
-Dave


----------



## lenny_mc

Hi, 

I am just wondering if the felt s22 tt bike is UCI legal? I can't seem to get my saddle 5 cm behind the centre of the BB. 

thanks


----------



## jurcsi

*2011 F5 top tube cracked*

Hi Dave,
I have a 2011 F5 and while I was unable to unclick my shoes at a start I fell on the top tube which cracked across on the top. (see image)
I'm not sure I can find the my purchase documents (after moving house a couple of times since the purchase).



















Is there any option for this case to replace the frame?
Thanks for your help,
András


----------



## SundayNiagara

Did you register the bike with Felt?


----------



## Superdave3T

jurcsi said:


> Hi Dave,
> I have a 2011 F5 and while I was unable to unclick my shoes at a start I fell on the top tube which cracked across on the top. (see image)
> I'm not sure I can find the my purchase documents (after moving house a couple of times since the purchase).
> View attachment 297609
> View attachment 297610
> View attachment 297611
> 
> Is there any option for this case to replace the frame?
> Thanks for your help,
> András


The dealer that sold you the bike can surely help. The crash replacement options can be carried out with any Felt Dealer however. Do you have one local that you've found since your move(s)?

-Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

lenny_mc said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am just wondering if the felt s22 tt bike is UCI legal? I can't seem to get my saddle 5 cm behind the centre of the BB.
> 
> thanks


I would recommend a shorter-nosed saddle or a rear-offset seatpost.

The position rules of the UCI have very little to do with the bicycle frame/fork itself.
There are rules that govern the shapes of the tubes which the S22 adheres to.

-Dave


----------



## jurcsi

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The dealer that sold you the bike can surely help. The crash replacement options can be carried out with any Felt Dealer however. Do you have one local that you've found since your move(s)?
> 
> -Dave


Thanks Dave, 
unfortunately there are no Felt dealers in Hungary any more (the only one closed down last year), and the original dealer is in the UK :S
But I see that would be the only way.
Can you however give me some indication what price (for which frame) I can expect if my claim would be accepted.
(this could help me to decide if I want to take up the hassle, or just go and have it repaired...)
thanks,
András


----------



## Superdave3T

jurcsi said:


> Thanks Dave,
> unfortunately there are no Felt dealers in Hungary any more (the only one closed down last year), and the original dealer is in the UK :S
> But I see that would be the only way.
> Can you however give me some indication what price (for which frame) I can expect if my claim would be accepted.
> (this could help me to decide if I want to take up the hassle, or just go and have it repaired...)
> thanks,
> András


Andras,

I'm afraid I do not have every global distributors policy with regards to crash replacement. It is possible that some distributors have no such policy. I'm sorry I assumed you were in the USA where the Can-Am distributor of Felt's bikes does offer such a service.

-SD


----------



## jurcsi

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Andras,
> 
> I'm afraid I do not have every global distributors policy with regards to crash replacement. It is possible that some distributors have no such policy. I'm sorry I assumed you were in the USA where the Can-Am distributor of Felt's bikes does offer such a service.
> 
> -SD


Dave,
for me to understand: you are saying that there is only a limited chance that I will be eligible for the replacement under the CRP.
Can you (or anyone in the company) still approve something like that for me? I'm urging this so much, as if I don't have a chance to get a replacement for a reasonable price, I will take it to repair. (and choose an other brand next time  )
I also would not want to miss the good part of the season due to this.
many thanks,
András


----------



## Superdave3T

jurcsi said:


> Dave,
> for me to understand: you are saying that there is only a limited chance that I will be eligible for the replacement under the CRP.
> Can you (or anyone in the company) still approve something like that for me? I'm urging this so much, as if I don't have a chance to get a replacement for a reasonable price, I will take it to repair. (and choose an other brand next time  )
> I also would not want to miss the good part of the season due to this.
> many thanks,
> András


András,

I am saying it is likely you will be able to get your bicycle replaced.
I am saying I cannot personally replace your bike. I do not have bikes. I do not sell bikes. I do not work in sales. I do not control global distribution or the policies of our global distributors.

I'm like the greeter at a Wal-Mart.

Now, if you'd like to contact someone in our global customer service office in Germany and try to determine which distributor is closest and how you can get a replacement lets take the conversation to an email dialogue where I can share your story and we can communicate with others in the company and they can easily pass your information and dialogue onto others that can help, ok?

[email protected]

-Dave


----------



## JimmyORCA

Dave

I have 2 questions

1. For the AR is there a recommened torque pound for the seat bolts? I tried a little working on my own bike last night to get the di2 eww to work.

2. Is there anything you can recommend I do to make my stages power meter work with the frameset. The sensor is hitting the Shimano direct mount rear brakes.

Thanks


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

JimmyORCA said:


> Dave
> 
> I have 2 questions
> 
> 1. For the AR is there a recommened torque pound for the seat bolts? I tried a little working on my own bike last night to get the di2 eww to work.
> 
> 2. Is there anything you can recommend I do to make my stages power meter work with the frameset. The sensor is hitting the Shimano direct mount rear brakes.
> 
> Thanks


The Stages won't work with the Shimano direct mount. You have to switch it to a Tektro 750r.

http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?productid=1214&catid=205&subcat=0


----------



## Superdave3T

JimmyORCA said:


> Dave
> 
> I have 2 questions
> 
> 1. For the AR is there a recommened torque pound for the seat bolts? I tried a little working on my own bike last night to get the di2 eww to work.
> 
> 2. Is there anything you can recommend I do to make my stages power meter work with the frameset. The sensor is hitting the Shimano direct mount rear brakes.
> 
> Thanks


The torque for the seatpost binder and saddle clamp are both listed in the owner's manual included with the bikes/frames.
There are direct mount brakes from Tektro and eecycleworks that have a narrower profile and thus can clear the Stages PM.

-Dave


----------



## tridennis

Dear Felt, 

I bought an AR5 2014 just over 4 weeks ago and had a small accident with it on my first ride out (new pedals were to tight and left foot didn't click out). I fel over and landed halfway on the seatpost that cracked. I immediatly contacted my local Dutch bike shop of purchase and he forwarded my request for a new seatpost to the importer/felt dealer in Belgium. Several mails were exchanged with the dealer and they seem to have some problems ordering a new seatpost from Felt. Can you tell me directly if there are spare seatpost available, and how do I get my hands on one (the Felt site shows no option to order a new seatpost for the AR 2014, even the vibrating reducing one seems non-available)....

Please help, it's a beautiful bike, but I would like to ride it before the summer is over...

Best Regards,
Dennis


----------



## Superdave3T

tridennis said:


> Dear Felt,
> 
> I bought an AR5 2014 just over 4 weeks ago and had a small accident with it on my first ride out (new pedals were to tight and left foot didn't click out). I fel over and landed halfway on the seatpost that cracked. I immediatly contacted my local Dutch bike shop of purchase and he forwarded my request for a new seatpost to the importer/felt dealer in Belgium. Several mails were exchanged with the dealer and they seem to have some problems ordering a new seatpost from Felt. Can you tell me directly if there are spare seatpost available, and how do I get my hands on one (the Felt site shows no option to order a new seatpost for the AR 2014, even the vibrating reducing one seems non-available)....
> 
> Please help, it's a beautiful bike, but I would like to ride it before the summer is over...
> 
> Best Regards,
> Dennis


Dennis,
What is the name of the dealer in Belgium? I can check with my colleagues in Germany who control the global distribution and customer service department and see if the order has been processed.
-Dave


----------



## Desl_Divr

Newbee. I have a 2011 Felt F4 (BB30 and ultegra crank). The BB is making noises, is that a press fit or can I just order a ultegra sm-BBR60 bottom bracket to replace it. Is it english or itallian threaded.


----------



## JimmyORCA

Thanks


ChemicalreAgent said:


> The Stages won't work with the Shimano direct mount. You have to switch it to a Tektro 750r.
> 
> http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?productid=1214&catid=205&subcat=0


----------



## JimmyORCA

Thanks, did not know eebrake makes a direct mount.




SuperdaveFelt said:


> The torque for the seatpost binder and saddle clamp are both listed in the owner's manual included with the bikes/frames.
> There are direct mount brakes from Tektro and eecycleworks that have a narrower profile and thus can clear the Stages PM.
> 
> -Dave


----------



## B05

So my coach works for this shop that carries Felt bikes and I gotta say I'm very intrigued in the AR series when I checked it out the other day. 

I'm sure I won't be able to afford an AR FRD, so my question goes:

Are the rest of the AR series the same in terms of stiffness/material/carbon layup?

I'm thinking of buying an AR1 frameset or an AR5 and just strip it down.


----------



## Maglore

Hi Dave,

Are you (or anyone else) able to post up a a picture of a 48cm 2014 (or later) AR series bike?

Cheers,
Den


----------



## Hallscamp

Hi Dave,
You guys replaced my Z85 frame last year with a ZA frame, due to an out of tolerance condition with the bottom bracket.

The bottom bracket started making a racket again yesterday during a double century. The mechanic pulled out the bearings and one of them is shot.

They are recommending an upgrade on the bearings. But, I don't want to go with ceramic. Is there anything you would recommend for an upgrade, non-ceramic, for last year's ZA frame BB30 bottom bracket?

Thanks Dave,
-Hallscamp


----------



## Superdave3T

Hallscamp said:


> Hi Dave,
> You guys replaced my Z85 frame last year with a ZA frame, due to an out of tolerance condition with the bottom bracket.
> 
> The bottom bracket started making a racket again yesterday during a double century. The mechanic pulled out the bearings and one of them is shot.
> 
> They are recommending an upgrade on the bearings. But, I don't want to go with ceramic. Is there anything you would recommend for an upgrade, non-ceramic, for last year's ZA frame BB30 bottom bracket?
> 
> Thanks Dave,
> -Hallscamp


Enduro angular contact BB30 bearings are certainly worth a shot.
-SD


----------



## Hallscamp

Thanks again, Dave. You have been great.


----------



## STRANA

*28mm tire on 13' Z5*

I was thinking of trying the conti 4 season on my 13' z5 will this tire fit?


----------



## Hallscamp

Oh, and Dave, I forgot to ask, any compatibility issues to be aware of, with the FSA BB30, when upgrading bearings? Like, is Enduro fully compatible with FSA?


----------



## c0de

I was at my LBS Saturday, and he said that they have received the 2015 Felt z85. Mentioned that it was had the new 105 groupset with 11 speeds (5800?). I wanted to look at it, but they didn't have them in the shop.. went online and couldn't find any information on it. Can you help with the spec sheet? Image? (he said it's the same color scheme black/red/white as '14)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Superdave3T

c0de said:


> I was at my LBS Saturday, and he said that they have received the 2015 Felt z85. Mentioned that it was had the new 105 groupset with 11 speeds (5800?). I wanted to look at it, but they didn't have them in the shop.. went online and couldn't find any information on it. Can you help with the spec sheet? Image? (he said it's the same color scheme black/red/white as '14)
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Updated frame, same fork, new tubeless compatible wider rims, sealed cartridge bearing 11 speed rear hub, complete 105 drivetrain including shifters, derailleurs, crankset, chain, cassette.

-SD


----------



## KimW

Hi Dave - 

I have been Felt shopping over the past couple of months and have decided on the Nine 50. As I was checking out the early release 2015 models, the UK site is showing the new Nine 50 with a Satin Steel Blue finish - do you know if this will be the same bike released in the US?









Thanks for your time - 

Kim

edit: just realized this is a road bike forum! Sorry!


----------



## Superdave3T

KimW said:


> Hi Dave -
> 
> I have been Felt shopping over the past couple of months and have decided on the Nine 50. As I was checking out the early release 2015 models, the UK site is showing the new Nine 50 with a Satin Steel Blue finish - do you know if this will be the same bike released in the US?
> 
> View attachment 298051
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time -
> 
> Kim
> 
> edit: just realized this is a road bike forum! Sorry!


\


No, the Nine 50 will only be available outside of the USA. 
No worries on the MTB questions here, it saves me from having to scroll through the comments at MTBR.
-SD


----------



## JasonScottCarter

So Dave, what does Felt have in store for us for the F series line for 2015 in the US? The website currently looks like it's not working, so perhaps new models are getting added to the website?


----------



## Superdave3T

JasonScottCarter said:


> So Dave, what does Felt have in store for us for the F series line for 2015 in the US? The website currently looks like it's not working, so perhaps new models are getting added to the website?


Well of course we're updating the F-series line with the new group(s) available from Shimano and we're adding some features. What are you looking for specifically?
-SD


----------



## JasonScottCarter

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Well of course we're updating the F-series line with the new group(s) available from Shimano and we're adding some features. What are you looking for specifically?
> -SD


Wanting to see the paint jobs and availability. Internal cable routing now would be sweet!


----------



## Superdave3T

JasonScottCarter said:


> Wanting to see the paint jobs and availability. Internal cable routing now would be sweet!


The cable routing thing is interesting to me. what exactly do you like about fishing the cables through the frame, just cosmetic?

-SD


----------



## JasonScottCarter

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The cable routing thing is interesting to me. what exactly do you like about fishing the cables through the frame, just cosmetic?
> 
> -SD


Yeah, makes the bike look cosmetically better. I got hit by a car and my current carbon bike got busted all to heck. I am ok, and I am expecting a settlement from the at fault driver, and I am thinking of going Felt for my next bike.


I was informed by a dealer today that the current F4's in my size are sold out for the year. He didn't know when the F series would start being available. If something good is coming, I would consider waiting on them to be released before jumping on another brand cause I miss riding really bad!


----------



## Superdave3T

JasonScottCarter said:


> Yeah, makes the bike look cosmetically better. I got hit by a car and my current carbon bike got busted all to heck. I am ok, and I am expecting a settlement from the at fault driver, and I am thinking of going Felt for my next bike.
> 
> 
> I was informed by a dealer today that the current F4's in my size are sold out for the year. He didn't know when the F series would start being available. If something good is coming, I would consider waiting on them to be released before jumping on another brand cause I miss riding really bad!


Looking for mechanical Ultegra F-series? I'd wait for 2015, they are going to be (T)extreme!


----------



## JasonScottCarter

OK, awesome. Is there going to be a price change at all? And when will they be up on the website for viewing, then available from dealers in the USA?


----------



## Superdave3T

JasonScottCarter said:


> OK, awesome. Is there going to be a price change at all? And when will they be up on the website for viewing, then available from dealers in the USA?


Yes, there is a slight price change, still well below the $4000 price tag on most of our competitors Ultegra mech bikes.
Website goes live on Day 1 of Eurobike August 27th. Your dealer will have information much earlier though, check back with them Monday.

-Dave


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

You've got my attention.


----------



## ChemicalreAgent

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The cable routing thing is interesting to me. what exactly do you like about fishing the cables through the frame, just cosmetic?
> 
> -SD


For me, the allure is in the ability to upgrade to Di2 down the road.


----------



## Hallscamp

Hi Dave,
I have ordered the Enduro angular contact BB30 bearings for that ZA frame which you guys provided me with last year. I ordered the kit directly from Enduro, which incudes C clips, a wavy washer, 5 narrow spacers, and the bearing seals.

Is there anything else I will need? My LBS will be doing all the work, but I wanted to make sure I provide them with everything they will need. I wasn't sure if these bearings were totally compatible without making any alterations.


----------



## bahula03

ChemicalreAgent said:


> For me, the allure is in the ability to upgrade to Di2 down the road.


Oddly enough, the two options aren't particularly related. With the exception of the aero bikes for obvious reasons, Felt sells bikes that have external cable routing and internal wire routing. The reason for this, as I understand it, is that routing cables internally significantly degrades their performance without any meaningful benefit, unless you count aesthetics. I'm sure Dave will correct me if I'm incorrect or left anything out...


----------



## Superdave3T

ChemicalreAgent said:


> For me, the allure is in the ability to upgrade to Di2 down the road.


Oh, of course you can do that with our frames with convertible cable stops. The Di2 wires run inside the frame to protect them.

-Dave


----------



## SundayNiagara

bahula03 said:


> Oddly enough, the two options aren't particularly related. With the exception of the aero bikes for obvious reasons, Felt sells bikes that have external cable routing and internal wire routing. The reason for this, as I understand it, is that routing cables internally significantly degrades their performance without any meaningful benefit, unless you count aesthetics. I'm sure Dave will correct me if I'm incorrect or left anything out...


For the past two months, I have scouring the web and learning as I go, but somehow, this has escaped me.


----------



## UpStroke

Can I get an 11 speed hub for my Felt TTR2 Wheels?


----------



## Kevin D

namkrad said:


> OK, thanks.
> Shame taking it out as sscx is coming on strong.


Agreed. The Breed is a sweet ride. It would even be great with discs. Specialized's overpriced ($2200) Crux Single could use some competition and not just from Raleigh's belt drive.


----------



## SundayNiagara

tungsten79 said:


> I'm upgrading my Cannondale to a carbon, and really liked the 'endurance' feel of the 2014 Z4 I tried in my LBS. It was more upright and comfortable and the carbon was great to ride on.
> 
> My price range is about $2-2500 but also have to deal with 8.8% NYC tax.
> 
> The 2014 Z4 was $1780 including tax after sale, but had the lower components. The 2014 Z3 is more expensive, closer to $2500, without Di2.
> 
> I found a reputable seller in NYC selling his used 2011 Z2 ($7k MSRP) with Dura-Ace Di2 and dura-ace pedals for $2500. No damage to the frame, and in great shape visually. I really like the electronic shifters.
> 
> 
> Which would you guys choose? Has the geometry of the Z2-Z4 changed a lot since 2011? I don't think I could afford the Di2 on the 2014/15 models so I'd settle for the 105 or Ultegra.
> 
> What about the 7970 Di2 - will this be a problem to service/replace parts later since they've changed wires/parts since then?
> 
> Thanks in advance - DAVE! can you help
> 
> MC​


Wait for 2015 models.


----------



## tungsten79

I'm upgrading my Cannondale to a carbon, and really liked the 'endurance' feel of the 2014 Z4 I tried in my LBS. It was more upright and comfortable and the carbon was great to ride on.

My price range is about $2-2500 but also have to deal with 8.8% NYC tax. 

The 2014 Z4 was $1780 including tax after sale, but had the lower components. The 2014 Z3 is more expensive, closer to $2500, without Di2.

I found a reputable seller in NYC selling his used 2011 Z2 ($7k MSRP) with Dura-Ace Di2 and dura-ace pedals for $2500. No damage to the frame, and in great shape visually. I really like the electronic shifters.


Which would you guys choose? Has the geometry of the Z2-Z4 changed a lot since 2011? I don't think I could afford the Di2 on the 2014/15 models so I'd settle for the 105 or Ultegra.

What about the 7970 Di2 - will this be a problem to service/replace parts later since they've changed wires/parts since then?

Thanks in advance - DAVE! can you help

MC​


----------



## cobra_kai

I was looking at the Praxis frame guide (https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/PRAXIS-FRAME-GUIDE.pdf) for their converters to use a shimano crank with BB30 and I see that it says that the F1, F2, and Z1 frames use a custom BB30 that has a lip that prevents the use of their converter. I'm guessing that some of the cup type converters like those from Wheels Manufacturing would work but can't find any confirmation. Is anyone using or know of a different converter that does not have an issue with this lip? 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Superdave3T

tungsten79 said:


> I'm upgrading my Cannondale to a carbon, and really liked the 'endurance' feel of the 2014 Z4 I tried in my LBS. It was more upright and comfortable and the carbon was great to ride on.
> 
> My price range is about $2-2500 but also have to deal with 8.8% NYC tax.
> 
> The 2014 Z4 was $1780 including tax after sale, but had the lower components. The 2014 Z3 is more expensive, closer to $2500, without Di2.
> 
> I found a reputable seller in NYC selling his used 2011 Z2 ($7k MSRP) with Dura-Ace Di2 and dura-ace pedals for $2500. No damage to the frame, and in great shape visually. I really like the electronic shifters.
> 
> 
> Which would you guys choose? Has the geometry of the Z2-Z4 changed a lot since 2011? I don't think I could afford the Di2 on the 2014/15 models so I'd settle for the 105 or Ultegra.
> 
> What about the 7970 Di2 - will this be a problem to service/replace parts later since they've changed wires/parts since then?
> 
> Thanks in advance - DAVE! can you help
> 
> MC​


That seems like a great deal and the 2011 was a great bike for Felt. Dura-Ace Di2 shifting is amazing but you are right that Shimano is no longer going to support the 7970 5 pin wiring harness, but who cares? The system is durable and reliable and items like batteries are interchangeable with the new e-tube.

By the time you wear out 7970 derailleurs you'll be ready for wireless 1 x 14 speed Di2 
-SD


----------



## krankenstein

Hi Superdave,

I see info about the 2015 Felt line up has been released, looks cool. I am particularly interested in the 2015 F-series, with the upgrade to textreme for F1, F2, F3, they look great. I have one question, with the upgrade to Textreme, can the F1, F2 or F3 still run electronic internally and mechanical externally? I recall the F FRD is electronic only, but want to know if the 2015 F1, 2, and 3 are the same, or if the 2015 are electronic/mechanical convertible. Thanks in advance.


----------



## easyridernyc

hey dave

quick question...the 15 f (5) series, same frame dynamics or are we upgrading again? thx


----------



## tungsten79

Hey DAVE.. quick question thanks in advance

Does the Felt Z3 2012 have the newer Shimano Di2 system - new wiring system though it's Ultegra? The 2011 Z2 has the 7970 Di2 is Dura-Ace but older system.

I'm debating between a 2011 Z2 Di2 used, about 3k miles but in great condition vs. 2012 Felt Z3 Di2 N.I.B.

2011 Used Z2 is $2600 shipped
2012 New Z3 is $2900 shipped

What do you think? I know you can't give an 'official' FELT response since they are used, etc.

THanks


----------



## bahula03

To answer the Di2 question; 7970 (what's on the 2011 bike) is the only Di2 system that doesn't use Shimano's eTube wiring setup. 10 speed Ultegra (6770), 11 speed Ultegra (6870), and 11 speed Dura Ace (9070) all use the same wires and are, to a degree, interchangeable. 

Not sure if you know this, but Felt is kind enough to maintain website archives, which makes looking up info super easy. Just google "2012 Felt Z3", and the first result will be the Felt page for that bike from 2012 with detailed specs.

If'n you care about my opinion between those two (2011 Z2 and 2012 Z3), I'd lean towards the Z2. While the older Di2 is off-putting for me, you'll get the bike fit for you, get your saddle of choice on, and need to do nothing else to be very happy with it. While I imagine the 2012 would be much the same case, it's more expensive and is about two pounds heavier...which is not cheap weight to drop.


----------



## Woody2375

Hi Dave. Are there any forward offset seat posts that will fit a 2013 ar4? Thanks, Woody.


----------



## Superdave3T

Woody2375 said:


> Hi Dave. Are there any forward offset seat posts that will fit a 2013 ar4? Thanks, Woody.


We make 5mm forward offset and 25mm rearward offset. Which do you have now?

-Dave


----------



## henners89

Hi
I'm looking to get an F FRD or AR FRD and use Shimano Dura Ace di2.
Which bottom bracket should I get with this? Will a reducer/converter be needed and if so which one?
Thanks
Henry


----------



## Woody2375

The 5mm forward. Moving up to him distance and trying to maximize my position. Does the vari mount post fit previous ar frames?


----------



## dbf73

Dave - trying to satisfy my itch to upgrade what I have, a 2014 AR5 w/ DA7970 and light carbon wheels. It would seem the obvious candidates to drop weight (aside from me) are bars, stem and perhaps seat post. Do you have the weights of those OEM items to help decide or a suggestion of best bang for the buck?

thanks
D


----------



## B05

dbf73 said:


> Dave - trying to satisfy my itch to upgrade what I have, a 2014 AR5 w/ DA7970 and light carbon wheels. It would seem the obvious candidates to drop weight (aside from me) are bars, stem and perhaps seat post. Do you have the weights of those OEM items to help decide or a suggestion of best bang for the buck?
> 
> thanks
> D


I was in the same predicament as you and I'm going AR3 now. That'll put me in the ballpark on where I want to be weight-wise. I've stripped stock bikes before to put new components in and it's just a lot of work. 

Also, I think you're limited to 2 seat (stock Felt and 3T) since it's a proprietary design.


----------



## Superdave3T

dbf73 said:


> Dave - trying to satisfy my itch to upgrade what I have, a 2014 AR5 w/ DA7970 and light carbon wheels. It would seem the obvious candidates to drop weight (aside from me) are bars, stem and perhaps seat post. Do you have the weights of those OEM items to help decide or a suggestion of best bang for the buck?
> 
> thanks
> D


If you'd allow me to step on my soap box for a moment, dropping weight of the magnitude you are suggesting on component swaps is not going to make the bike faster. The 2014 AR5 seatpost is lighter than the 2015 3T version. The bars are triple butted 2014 aluminum. You might save ~50g. Look at the new Zipp aero bar, the 3T Aeronova or Aerotunda, the Bontrager XXX aero if you want to go faster. The Felt SL stem is 134g. Again, you won't save enough mass here to make a performance gain. If you want to make the bike faster check out new tires. The Conti GP4000RS is a good choice as is the new Schwalbe One. I'd mix a 25mm Schwalbe rear with our 23mm TTR1 aero tire up front which has the net effect of dropping ~1600g of static mass at 50kph on a -20/0/20 sweep on flat/rolling terrain over the Rubinos.

Easy ways to save weight are cutting excess steerer tube, trimming excess seatpost and cable housing. The weight savings here is often as much as you'd see with a carbon bar upgrade.

Check out WW site for more obsessive weight reduction tips.

-SD


----------



## superd66

Hi, Quick question on my girlfriends 2014 ZW-5. I bought a Fulcrum 5 wheelset and would like the setup to be the same as the OEM. What is the part number for the rear Cassette. Felt web site says it is a 105 drive train and that it is 11-32. I cannot locate an 11-32 105 cassette. Thanks Darrin


----------



## Harley-Dale

SD, or others, I have TTr3 wheelset on my 2013 B12. I am going 11-speed DI2 and ordered cassette and chain already.

Any mods to the wheel/hub to get 11-speed Shimano to work, or should I be looking at a new wheel that is fully 11-speed compatible? I dont want a shop to experiment but they dont have a definitive answer. I dont have training down time to futz around, so would like to know what my choices/options are.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## bahula03

superd66 said:


> Hi, Quick question on my girlfriends 2014 ZW-5. I bought a Fulcrum 5 wheelset and would like the setup to be the same as the OEM. What is the part number for the rear Cassette. Felt web site says it is a 105 drive train and that it is 11-32. I cannot locate an 11-32 105 cassette. Thanks Darrin


I'm interested to hear what the answer comes out to be. Looking around, I'm about 95% sure that Shimano doesn't make an 11-32 road-specific 10 speed cassette that's readily available to end users. That leaves me with three guesses; it's a Felt specific OE part, it's a typo on the website, or Felt borrowed the cassette from a different Shimano line.

Probably the quickest way to figure out the answer is to go look at the cassette that's on the original wheels and see what it is. The locking ring will tell you which model and series the cassette is (i.e. 105 5700, Ultegra 6700, etc), and the backside of the cassette will have the range etched on it (11-32, 11-26, 12-25, etc) as well as tooth count for each of the last three cogs (my 105 cassette has this information stamped on the last cog, my Ultegra cassette has it etched on the carrier...it'll be there either way).


----------



## Superdave3T

bahula03 said:


> I'm interested to hear what the answer comes out to be. Looking around, I'm about 95% sure that Shimano doesn't make an 11-32 road-specific 10 speed cassette that's readily available to end users. That leaves me with three guesses; it's a Felt specific OE part, it's a typo on the website, or Felt borrowed the cassette from a different Shimano line.
> 
> Probably the quickest way to figure out the answer is to go look at the cassette that's on the original wheels and see what it is. The locking ring will tell you which model and series the cassette is (i.e. 105 5700, Ultegra 6700, etc), and the backside of the cassette will have the range etched on it (11-32, 11-26, 12-25, etc) as well as tooth count for each of the last three cogs (my 105 cassette has this information stamped on the last cog, my Ultegra cassette has it etched on the carrier...it'll be there either way).


Shimano makes a 10s 11-32t but you need to use their MTB or Trekking stuff. I think Deore, SLX, and LX all offer 11-32. They name it something like CS-HG62 or 82, etc... 

I've even seen guys run the 11-34t without issues although you technically overrun the capacity of the ders.

-SD


----------



## superd66

So Dave, I looked at the cassette lockring. It is CS- HG62-10 11t the gearing is 11,12,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32. So any Idea how or where I can get this rear cassette? or is it a one off for Felt? If that's case do I have to go through Felt directly for the part? It also seems that the definition of "105 drive train" That Felt and my LBS uses to describe the 2014 ZW-5 is stretched just a littlebit. ZW5 - Felt Bicycles Thanks Darrin


----------



## superd66

bahula03 said:


> I'm interested to hear what the answer comes out to be. Looking around, I'm about 95% sure that Shimano doesn't make an 11-32 road-specific 10 speed cassette that's readily available to end users. That leaves me with three guesses; it's a Felt specific OE part, it's a typo on the website, or Felt borrowed the cassette from a different Shimano line.
> 
> Probably the quickest way to figure out the answer is to go look at the cassette that's on the original wheels and see what it is. The locking ring will tell you which model and series the cassette is (i.e. 105 5700, Ultegra 6700, etc), and the backside of the cassette will have the range etched on it (11-32, 11-26, 12-25, etc) as well as tooth count for each of the last three cogs (my 105 cassette has this information stamped on the last cog, my Ultegra cassette has it etched on the carrier...it'll be there either way).


So as my prev post states I found the gearing and information however the gearing provide on the ZW-5 does not agree with what I find on the us shimano website for the hg62-10( this is the number the lockring provided). The gearing does agree with the SLX line for mtb bike hg82-10 grearing option 3. Hopefully Felt / SuperDave can shed some light on my question from the mfg perspective. My original question still stands. I would like to use the ZW-5 stock wheels for winter and training and would like to have the fulcrum 5's for rides / events and would like to make the change between wheel sets as simple as possible by maintaining the same drive train configuration. Thanks Darrin


----------



## Superdave3T

superd66 said:


> So Dave, I looked at the cassette lockring. It is CS- HG62-10 11t the gearing is 11,12,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32. So any Idea how or where I can get this rear cassette? or is it a one off for Felt? If that's case do I have to go through Felt directly for the part? It also seems that the definition of "105 drive train" That Felt and my LBS uses to describe the 2014 ZW-5 is stretched just a littlebit. ZW5 - Felt Bicycles Thanks Darrin


You can buy that cassette from your local bike shop, from an online bike shop source, and probably eBay or other used marketplace. Did you try using the Google? It returned a few hundred results for me. This is not a one-off cassette, it is simply Shimano's middle price point option. The same can be said with the Shimano 105 chains now. They are not "105" they are CN-600 which is indicated for the 105 11 speed group and will also work on current and future 11s MTB groups. Shimano does not brand every part they make with a series, many items are non-series such as disc brakes, Di2 wires, etc.

The Felt website states:

Drivetrain:
Shimano 105 STI shifters, Shimano 105 derailleurs, FSA Omega BB30 50/34T crankset, Shimano 10-speed chain, Shimano 11-32T cassette

It does not say "105 cassette" or "105 chain"

You can use a 11-25t and it wouldn't change the required derailleur adjustments. You need to be sure the 1st and 10th position cogs are in the identical location from the inner dropout surface so there is no need to change the limit screws or cable tension but that has nothing to do with the cassette size itself.

Is your Felt dealer where you purchased the bike unable to assist you?

-Dave


----------



## superd66

Thanks for the info Dave

My local Felt dealer was not able to answer my question without me brining the bike in. They could not answer the 11-32 on a road bike question. At the end of the day I just wanted to see if it was a part that I could readily replace / replicate on the fulcrum wheelset or if it was a Felt specific part.

Thanks for the info.
Darrin


----------



## Superdave3T

Harley-Dale said:


> SD, or others, I have TTr3 wheelset on my 2013 B12. I am going 11-speed DI2 and ordered cassette and chain already.
> 
> Any mods to the wheel/hub to get 11-speed Shimano to work, or should I be looking at a new wheel that is fully 11-speed compatible? I dont want a shop to experiment but they dont have a definitive answer. I dont have training down time to futz around, so would like to know what my choices/options are.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


The 2013 B12 used a 10s freehub. The 2014 used 11s. You'll need a new hub and to have the rear wheel relaced.
-SD


----------



## EightOhEight

*Felt 2013 Z1 Di2 cable length help*

Hi
I'm building up a '13 Z1 with internal di2 battery. Could you let me know what length the two Shimano internal cables (EW-SD50) are I will need?
They come in the following lengths,

1400mm
1200mm
1000mm
950mm
750mm
700mm
650mm
600mm
550mm
500mm
400mm
350mm
300mm
250mm
200mm
150mm

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

EightOhEight said:


> Hi
> I'm building up a '13 Z1 with internal di2 battery. Could you let me know what length the two Shimano internal cables (EW-SD50) are I will need?
> They come in the following lengths,
> 
> 1400mm
> 1200mm
> 1000mm
> 950mm
> 750mm
> 700mm
> 650mm
> 600mm
> 550mm
> 500mm
> 400mm
> 350mm
> 300mm
> 250mm
> 200mm
> 150mm
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks


If you want the shortest possible wire lengths I'll need to know the frame size and what type of battery you plan to use.
I think you'll also run the F/D and R/D wires inside, too.

There is little risk in using the ~1000mm wire for everything and stuffing the extra inside the frame.

For the OEM bikes, I always specify much longer cables than are actually needed so assembly is sped up and in the case of a snagged wire it is less likely to break or come unplugged from Junction B.

-SD


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, as usual you are a great help for us here. Thank you so much!

Dennis


----------



## EightOhEight

SuperdaveFelt said:


> If you want the shortest possible wire lengths I'll need to know the frame size and what type of battery you plan to use.
> I think you'll also run the F/D and R/D wires inside, too.
> 
> There is little risk in using the ~1000mm wire for everything and stuffing the extra inside the frame.
> 
> For the OEM bikes, I always specify much longer cables than are actually needed so assembly is sped up and in the case of a snagged wire it is less likely to break or come unplugged from Junction B.
> 
> -SD


Dave 
It's a 2013 Z1 56cm. The battery will be the internal Shimano SM-BTR2 Di2.
Many thanks this is so helpful and much appreciated.
808


----------



## Superdave3T

EightOhEight said:


> Dave
> It's a 2013 Z1 56cm. The battery will be the internal Shimano SM-BTR2 Di2.
> Many thanks this is so helpful and much appreciated.
> 808


Ok, generally speaking you'll want:

1. Left shifter: 350mm from shifter to stem-mounted junction-A 
2. Right shifter: 350mm from shifter to stem mounted junction-A
300mm might fit if you are running narrow-ish bars and short-ish stem. If you have a barfly-type mount for the junction-A or plan to run it someplace other than the underside of the stem, reconsider the wire length based on junction-A location. I run my junction out in front of the bars below the forward positioned Garmin mount. I used 400mm wires routed internally in my handlebars so I'd have plenty of length and it allowed me to tuck any extra inside the bar tops.
3. Junction-A to Junction-B: for a 56cm I'd recommend 750mm. Again if you are running an exceptionally long stem plus a bunch of extra headset spacers and steerer tube you may need more length. You might also get away with a wire as short as 650mm if you were to install the JC41 junction-B to the 650mm wire, then install the rear derailleur wire essentially extending the length so it could be run through the downtube and out the bottom of the BB shell opening. Without connecting the extra wire and junction making the A to B connection as short as possible will not allow you to actually plug the system together OUTSIDE the frame then stuff it inside. You need the extra ~100mm or so to allow the plugs to pass all the way out the frame for system connections, then it can be stuffed back inside. The complexity of connecting first might be worth the ~10g weight savings for some people that want to use the shortest possible wire lengths.
4. From Junction-B to the internal battery you'll need at least 550mm but that would not allow you to remove the seatpost without also unplugging the battery. Here I use 1000mm wires so the seatpost can easily be removed without disconnecting the whole system. Again, you could compromise and use something in between.

5. Front derailleur to Junction-B: 250mm is long enough for this connection

6. Rear derailleur to Junction-B: 450mm is long enough for this connection but because the rear loop of wire is exposed and could easily get snagged on the quick release during wheel removal or some other obstruction while moving the bike around the garage or in and out of the car I use a 550mm here so if the wire does get hooked there is some slack that can be pulled from the frame before the plug breaks or pulls out.

Lastly, if you haven't considered them, buy the SW-610 remote sprint shifters. These are incredibly useful and really highlight the advantage of an electronically shifted bicycle.

There are some more "advanced" wire set ups that allow the Junction-A to be mounted inside the bike and for Junction B to be removed from the system altogether but that'll have to wait for our next lesson.

Enjoy!

-Dave


----------



## EightOhEight

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Ok, generally speaking you'll want:
> 
> 1. Left shifter: 350mm from shifter to stem-mounted junction-A
> 2. Right shifter: 350mm from shifter to stem mounted junction-A
> 300mm might fit if you are running narrow-ish bars and short-ish stem. If you have a barfly-type mount for the junction-A or plan to run it someplace other than the underside of the stem, reconsider the wire length based on junction-A location. I run my junction out in front of the bars below the forward positioned Garmin mount. I used 400mm wires routed internally in my handlebars so I'd have plenty of length and it allowed me to tuck any extra inside the bar tops.
> 3. Junction-A to Junction-B: for a 56cm I'd recommend 750mm. Again if you are running an exceptionally long stem plus a bunch of extra headset spacers and steerer tube you may need more length. You might also get away with a wire as short as 650mm if you were to install the JC41 junction-B to the 650mm wire, then install the rear derailleur wire essentially extending the length so it could be run through the downtube and out the bottom of the BB shell opening. Without connecting the extra wire and junction making the A to B connection as short as possible will not allow you to actually plug the system together OUTSIDE the frame then stuff it inside. You need the extra ~100mm or so to allow the plugs to pass all the way out the frame for system connections, then it can be stuffed back inside. The complexity of connecting first might be worth the ~10g weight savings for some people that want to use the shortest possible wire lengths.
> 4. From Junction-B to the internal battery you'll need at least 550mm but that would not allow you to remove the seatpost without also unplugging the battery. Here I use 1000mm wires so the seatpost can easily be removed without disconnecting the whole system. Again, you could compromise and use something in between.
> 
> 5. Front derailleur to Junction-B: 250mm is long enough for this connection
> 
> 6. Rear derailleur to Junction-B: 450mm is long enough for this connection but because the rear loop of wire is exposed and could easily get snagged on the quick release during wheel removal or some other obstruction while moving the bike around the garage or in and out of the car I use a 550mm here so if the wire does get hooked there is some slack that can be pulled from the frame before the plug breaks or pulls out.
> 
> Lastly, if you haven't considered them, buy the SW-610 remote sprint shifters. These are incredibly useful and really highlight the advantage of an electronically shifted bicycle.
> 
> There are some more "advanced" wire set ups that allow the Junction-A to be mounted inside the bike and for Junction B to be removed from the system altogether but that'll have to wait for our next lesson.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> -Dave


WOW 
Many thanks for this Dave!
Yes I have a Barfly for the junction-A to sit under. My Stem is 120mm. There will be spacers but don't know how many yet until I bike fit, I had about 20mm on the 2013 F1 which I'm swapping the Di2 over from... Bars Ritchey WCS EvoCurve 42CM (is it possible to internally route the wires in these bars?). So 400 mm sounds sensible?
I'd love to run SW-610 but it's 6770...
Thanks again for all this feedback it's given me more food for thought and more research to do.
CHEERS!
808


----------



## EightOhEight

Dave 
Out of interest do you use after sales cable housing ? Jagwire, Yokozuna Reaction type stuff?
808


----------



## BC94

Disgusted at the fact that Felt use cheap unbranded component parts when building their bikes and offer no after market component part sales. 
In November 2012 I bought a 2013 model F85. It is only used between April and October then I take out my winter bike. In June 2014 the free hub broke, the retailer could not offer a replacement hub as they found the one fitted was unbranded, Saddleback UK could not help as the item used was not listed and no replacement could be offered by them, the local bike shop tried various free hubs which looked similar but were not and did not fit, the upshot was a new hub, free wheel, rebuild at the cost of £120. At the end of July whilst cleaning the bike the stand overbalanced and the carbon fiber forks broke. Guess what, no like for like replacements could be bought from Felt / Saddleback. Weeks of trying to source replacements followed. I found a Planet x set which were the same size but the crown is very slightly different. On stripping the headset I found the cheap ball and ring pig bearings were used in the top and bottom of the headset. The seats have now to be stripped out and a new headset sourced. All saddleback can advise is it's and 36 x 45 degree FSA 42 !!! that is a brand number and there are several varieties widths and thicknesses of this set of bearings, never mind the cones and shims which are now required to get a proper fix. The bottom bracket has also gone, god knows what that has been fitted with ! All in all 11 months use and a lifetime of misery so far. The only good word I have to say regarding Felt bikes is that they look good and the frame is good. 
I bought the bike at £800 new, so far it has cost me £415 in repairs. 
There is no cost to the time spent searching for parts, stress, frustration and anger. 
If this gets to anyone in Felt. Please do yourselves a favour, 
1. Use branded parts when building your bikes
2. Get your after market sales and distributor network sorted out
3. Don't use such cheap parts for a bike which cost just under £800 when new !!


----------



## Superdave3T

BC94 said:


> Disgusted at the fact that Felt use cheap unbranded component parts when building their bikes and offer no after market component part sales.
> In November 2012 I bought a 2013 model F85. It is only used between April and October then I take out my winter bike. In June 2014 the free hub broke, the retailer could not offer a replacement hub as they found the one fitted was unbranded, Saddleback UK could not help as the item used was not listed and no replacement could be offered by them, the local bike shop tried various free hubs which looked similar but were not and did not fit, the upshot was a new hub, free wheel, rebuild at the cost of £120. At the end of July whilst cleaning the bike the stand overbalanced and the carbon fiber forks broke. Guess what, no like for like replacements could be bought from Felt / Saddleback. Weeks of trying to source replacements followed. I found a Planet x set which were the same size but the crown is very slightly different. On stripping the headset I found the cheap ball and ring pig bearings were used in the top and bottom of the headset. The seats have now to be stripped out and a new headset sourced. All saddleback can advise is it's and 36 x 45 degree FSA 42 !!! that is a brand number and there are several varieties widths and thicknesses of this set of bearings, never mind the cones and shims which are now required to get a proper fix. The bottom bracket has also gone, god knows what that has been fitted with ! All in all 11 months use and a lifetime of misery so far. The only good word I have to say regarding Felt bikes is that they look good and the frame is good.
> I bought the bike at £800 new, so far it has cost me £415 in repairs.
> There is no cost to the time spent searching for parts, stress, frustration and anger.
> If this gets to anyone in Felt. Please do yourselves a favour,
> 1. Use branded parts when building your bikes
> 2. Get your after market sales and distributor network sorted out
> 3. Don't use such cheap parts for a bike which cost just under £800 when new !!


Thanks for airing your disappointment on a public message board.
The hubs Felt used on the F85 are made by Joytech, the same company that makes HED, Roval, Novatech, and many other brands' hubs. There are service parts such as freehubs, axles, cones, bearings, available from Joytech as well as a European service center. Please let me know if you'd like contact information for them.

If the hub was branded Formula or SRAM or Shimano, would Felt's UK Distributor: Saddleback have these parts availalbe for all models and all model years? Unlikely I'd wager.

We use the FSA No.42 headset. This has a 1.5" lower ACB bearing size and a 1.125" upper bearing using the Campagnolo size standard (not IS2) An FSA or comparable headset using the No.42 standard can be found from hundreds of headset suppliers including Felt's own web-store:

https://www.google.com/search?q=FSA...S:official&safe=off&tbm=shop&tbs=vw:l,p_ord:p

And Felt's site here:
FSA NO.42 Carbon Tapered Headset - Parts

The bottom bracket is the matched part for the FSA crankset made by Tien Hsin Industries Co., Ltd., the Taiwan-based manufacturer of FSA branded products. Replacement is available from FSA, or you can choose an upgraded part such as Shimano's square taper BB or a CNC unit from one of the more boutique brands.

I'll agree our biggest challenge has been getting you the consumer the answers you need.

Thank you for your business and your kind comments on the Felt frame.

-SD


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## Maglore

BC94 said:


> Disgusted at the fact that Felt use cheap unbranded component parts when building their bikes and offer no after market component part sales.


I can't abide it when somebody registers on a forum with the sole intention of just being able to publicly moan. Totally does my head in. Bad form.

How the hell you managed to brake the forks from an 'overbalanced stand' during cleaning is beyond my understanding. Then when you try and buy some replacements forks for a bike which was bought nearly two year ago, you go on as though it's something that you should be entitled to. You will find getting replacement forks for any road bike generally an issue, not just with Felt.

In the space of 12 months of use you've broken the freehub, broken the forks, knackered the headset and now the bottom bracket. Have you thought that maybe you should learn how to correctly maintain your bike? Just sayin....


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## Superdave3T

Maglore said:


> I can't abide it when somebody registers on a forum with the sole intention of just being able to publicly moan. Totally does my head in. Bad form.
> 
> How the hell you managed to brake the forks from an 'overbalanced stand' during cleaning is beyond my understanding. Then when you try and buy some replacements forks for a bike which was bought nearly two year ago, you go on as though it's something that you should be entitled to. You will find getting replacement forks for any road bike generally an issue, not just with Felt.
> 
> In the space of 12 months of use you've broken the freehub, broken the forks, knackered the headset and now the bottom bracket. Have you thought that maybe you should learn how to correctly maintain your bike? Just sayin....


3T makes a nice fork that works well with our frames. In addition, customer service forks are available in "standard" colors from our global customer service center in Germany and our North American Service center in Ontario, CA.

-SD


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## BC94

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 3T makes a nice fork that works well with our frames. In addition, customer service forks are available in "standard" colors from our global customer service center in Germany and our North American Service center in Ontario, CA.
> 
> -SD





Maglore said:


> I can't abide it when somebody registers on a forum with the sole intention of just being able to publicly moan. Totally does my head in. Bad form.
> 
> How the hell you managed to brake the forks from an 'overbalanced stand' during cleaning is beyond my understanding. Then when you try and buy some replacements forks for a bike which was bought nearly two year ago, you go on as though it's something that you should be entitled to. You will find getting replacement forks for any road bike generally an issue, not just with Felt.
> 
> In the space of 12 months of use you've broken the freehub, broken the forks, knackered the headset and now the bottom bracket. Have you thought that maybe you should learn how to correctly maintain your bike? Just sayin....


Thank you Maglore for your valued supercilious input. You are obviously a rocket scientist so, I'll spell matters out for you in mono-syllabic form for you. Free hubs don't break on the flat, they fail ! bottom brackets don't break, they fail even when properly and regularly maintained. Well constructed quality ones do not tend to do that in such a short period of time though. As posted the stand overbalanced, guess what, that meant it toppled over, ie, fell, the first part that hit the floor was the fork, guess what impact+height+brittle material=breakage, simple ! Also, newsflash, public forums are just that, there for the public to air their individual feelings as we still, or at least I still live in a democratic country, and if companies wish to take part in such forums then they run the risk of taking the good with the bad, it's their choice. Just saying.......


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## BC94

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 3T makes a nice fork that works well with our frames. In addition, customer service forks are available in "standard" colors from our global customer service center in Germany and our North American Service center in Ontario, CA.
> 
> -SD


Thanks for your reply. I suggest some better product education with your UK distributors is necessary for after market Felt replacements or equivalent brands.
My point regarding unbranded parts was just as you mentioned. 
No, saddleback may not have had the part, brand in stock but, if it was branded they would have been able to have advised me which brand, part to go for. 
As for publicly airing my disappointment on a public forum. That's the risk a company takes being a member of such a forum, they have to expect to take the good with the bad. 
It worked. You gave me more information about the bike in a reply than Saddleback have been able to in half a dozen phone calls.
Hopefully the bike will be back on the road soon, failing that it's next trip might be to the dump lol ! 
Thanks


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## riccardo123

I don't wish to get involved in any arguments, but I will say that Saddleback don't strike me as a very keen promoter of Felt. I was looking for info on the Z5, and Saddleback's page welcomes me to the "new 2013 Z Series"... erm, thanks for that!


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## RobbV

BC94, You know it's just as easy to use your computer for good as for bad. You could use it to search for your own parts if the shop you use is not competent enough or willing to help. Or you can just come on here and ask straight up. I say this from my personal experience with bike shops, not to put you down. The problems you've encountered does sound like maybe there's a maintainence issue on your end. Also it's not like Felt uses parts that are atypical for the industry. As most any manufacturer of anything the parts spec improves as you move to the higher end of the spectrum. On a good note, if you upgrade to sealed bearing components or at least put good quality grease in the new components your bike can end up even better than new.


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## BC94

riccardo123 said:


> I don't wish to get involved in any arguments, but I will say that Saddleback don't strike me as a very keen promoter of Felt. I was looking for info on the Z5, and Saddleback's page welcomes me to the "new 2013 Z Series"... erm, thanks for that!


It doesn't help when speaking to a Saddleback member of staff they tell you that quote "i'm afraid to tell you that felt just use cheap parts to be able to bung the bikes out" A sterling endorsement for a brand they are main distributors for in the UK. Turns out the FSA part number they gave me was wrong as well


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## bleckb

Except for an overbalanced stand, which isn't a term I'm familiar with but sounds like operator error, I can't imagine a reputable bike shop not being able to address the issues with the hub, fork, and bottom bracket, "name brand" or not. That's the puzzler to me.


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## Maglore

BC94 said:


> Thank you Maglore for your valued supercilious input. You are obviously a rocket scientist so, I'll spell matters out for you in mono-syllabic form for you. Free hubs don't break on the flat, they fail ! bottom brackets don't break, they fail even when properly and regularly maintained. Well constructed quality ones do not tend to do that in such a short period of time though. As posted the stand overbalanced, guess what, that meant it toppled over, ie, fell, the first part that hit the floor was the fork, guess what impact+height+brittle material=breakage, simple ! Also, newsflash, public forums are just that, there for the public to air their individual feelings as we still, or at least I still live in a democratic country, and if companies wish to take part in such forums then they run the risk of taking the good with the bad, it's their choice. Just saying.......


There is a way of asking for things and the way you do it, is particularly rude, demanding, accusatory and insulting. You could have just asked for the information you needed, instead of ranting and raving with chapter and verse and added exclamation marks. You couldn't even reply to me without an insult, which says a lot and just makes you come across as a pretty obnoxious person. But then, that's the risk you run by posting on a public forum I suppose. Have you ever thought that people will generally tend to help you more if you ask nicely?


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## Harley-Dale

Maglore said:


> There is a way of asking for things and the way you do it, is particularly rude, demanding, accusatory and insulting. You couldn't even reply to me without an insult, which says a lot and just makes you come across as a pretty obnoxious person. But then, that's the risk you run by posting on a public forum I suppose. Have you ever thought that people will generally tend to help you more if you ask nicely?


Yepp. Respect gets respect.

FWIW, I am sorry to hear you are having issues. It does indeed sound like Saddleback could learn some lessons in customer service, as well. Sounds like they have failed you, but not so sure your LBS is top notch either. They should be helping more, IMO.

My 2013 B12 showed up with a broken fork (I bought from seller on eBay). Clearly, it was damaged in transit. LBS told me don't expect an exact replacement fork--I would likely get a plain carbon black fork for my white B12. Okay, cant expect Felt to stock a multitude of previous model year frame parts and components.

But, the dealer was able to get an exact stock match fork from Felt. Not sure how/what took place, but needless to say I was quite happy. Like your situation, my fork was NOT a warranty issue, and I had to pay for the new fork and installation. So, Felt had no obligation to find me an exact replacement.

I bring this up, because if your LBS and Saddleback were worth a damn, they would have told you the same, and hopefully performed the same. I can see your frustration because they have failed you.

Hope you get it sorted.


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## BC94

Maglore said:


> There is a way of asking for things and the way you do it, is particularly rude, demanding, accusatory and insulting. You could have just asked for the information you needed, instead of ranting and raving with chapter and verse and added exclamation marks. You couldn't even reply to me without an insult, which says a lot and just makes you come across as a pretty obnoxious person. But then, that's the risk you run by posting on a public forum I suppose. Have you ever thought that people will generally tend to help you more if you ask nicely?


Maglore, check the first line of the reply you made to my first post. Quote "_I can't abide it when somebody registers on a forum with the sole intention of just being able to publicly moan. Totally does my head in. _ 
Don't then moan when you get a suitable reply back, take a hint. Don't get involved in other peoples issues. 
You are entitled to your own opinion but, sometimes your opinion should just be that, and kept to yourself. 
Don't come crying just because someone shouted back at you after what you wrote, that just shows you up to be a sanctimonious hypocrite. 
As another user suggested, respect gets respect. 
Get over it and stop biting, I can throw bait all day


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## jpaschal01

BC94 said:


> As another user suggested, respect gets respect.


I think if you read through the pages and pages of questions and replies to this thread, Superdave has earned all of our respect. He has been on this forum thoroughly answering all of our questions very proactively. He has treated all of us with great respect and earned ours as well. 

With your issues, a great amount of frustration is understandable. However, the tone in which you wrote brought the ire of many here that respect Felt and Superdave so much. There simply isn't another manufacturer that assigns a rep to monitor these boards the way Felt has with Superdave. That has also earned our respect as consumers. With it, they are one of just a few brands of bikes I'll consider. 

Unfortunately, your issues sound just like the ones I've heard with folks in the US buying Italian bikes here in the US. It is a distributor issue and not so much a bike issue. You purchased a lower end road bike and the distributor either wasn't able or willing to provide the service. (I know of folks with high end Pinarellos that have had the same issue in the US.) I'm sure Felt appreciated hearing that their UK distributor is not providing the service that Felt would personally provide. 

But again, the tone of the originally email ruffled the feathers of many that have been members of this forum for so long and learned to respect Superdave so much. I can promise you this, if you had come with the same issues without the built up anger, he would have responded just as quickly & been happy to have an offline conversation with you about them to gather additional details as well to make Felt and their distributor network better. 

Now, let's all get along and go ride our Felts!


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## Maglore

BC94 said:


> Don't then moan when you get a suitable reply back, take a hint. Don't get involved in other peoples issues.


But's aren't 'public forums there for the public to air their individual feelings as we still, or at least I still live in a democratic country, and if (individuals) wish to take part in such forums then they run the risk of taking the good with the bad, it's their choice.'

Your words, not mine mate.



BC94 said:


> You are entitled to your own opinion but, sometimes your opinion should just be that, and kept to yourself.


I once again direct you back to your own words.



BC94 said:


> Get over it and stop biting, I can throw bait all day


And with that last comment, I rest my case.


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## Superdave3T

I don't think this is entirely fair in this case:

"But's aren't 'public forums there for the public to air their individual feelings as we still, or at least I still live in a democratic country, and if (individuals) wish to take part in such forums then they run the risk of taking the good with the bad, it's their choice."

Felt does not have a policy to participate in the forums. I only do so to provide answers that aren't easy to find otherwise and correct misinformation. It helps me sleep at night. I often find that a phone call or offer to visit a person with an issue goes a long way to resolving any potential problem. In general the anonymity of the internet has eroded polite decorum on most/many forums but it generally still exists when you have the person's ear or speak to them with eye contact.

I'm sorry that the freehub failed on his F85. I'm responsible for selecting the hubs we use on that model. I'm relieved that 10,000s of customers have not had any problems whatsoever but that does little to satiate this consumer. Likewise, his frustrations at Felt are hurled at a company, but I replied because at the end of the day they are directed at me personally. I made a decision to use the hub that I expected would provide a reasonable level of performance commensurate with the consumer's expectations. I'm sorry to have let him down.

Likewise the sourcing issues for consumer direct purchases and poor global communication are shortcomings I (and Felt) should work harder to improve.

I appreciate the opportunity to try to help.

-Dave


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## FeltF75rider

Superdave, what kind of bar tape came on my 2014 f2. I am guessing it was specific to this bike and not available. Would you know anything comparable?


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## Superdave3T

FeltF75rider said:


> Superdave, what kind of bar tape came on my 2014 f2. I am guessing it was specific to this bike and not available. Would you know anything comparable?



Fizik makes similar micro-fiber tape.
-SD


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## ozzgurr

Why Felt has a " Customer service department" ? I called the phone line and Felt reps ( Carlo and Gerald ) told me that they can't help me because I did not make any business transactions with Felt, well, under this circumstances Felt should close " Customer service department" right? By the way I have already filed a complaint at BBB and District Attorney at Irvine, CA for " Consumer Fraud-Non delivery of Merchandise" lets see what will be the out come...


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## Superdave3T

ozzgurr said:


> Why Felt has a " Customer service department" ? I called the phone line and Felt reps ( Carlo and Gerald ) told me that they can't help me because I did not make any business transactions with Felt, well, under this circumstances Felt should close " Customer service department" right? By the way I have already filed a complaint at BBB and District Attorney at Irvine, CA for " Consumer Fraud-Non delivery of Merchandise" lets see what will be the out come...


Where did you buy the bike? Couldn't the Felt USA customer service department just ship the parts you need to your dealer? I don't think Felt conducts B-C (business to consumer) transactions because of their dealer agreements. Dealers want to be able to be the exclusive source for Felt and Felt parts in North America AFAIK.

-SD


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## deviousalex

Hi SuperDaveFelt,

I'm looking at a 2015 Felt F1X frameset. Is there some place where I can get a high resolution pic of it? On the website it seems to be a graphic mockup not the actual frameset.

Also, can the front fork fit a 160mm rotor on it?

Thanks,
Alex


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## EightOhEight

I'm planning on fitting a Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL2 chainset to the Z1(2013) I'm building up. Does anyone know of any possible compatibility issues? Anyone know of a successful Z build with this chainset?
Thanks
808


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## bungis

Piggybacking off this gentleman's request:



deviousalex said:


> Hi SuperDaveFelt,
> 
> I'm looking at a 2015 Felt F1X frameset. Is there some place where I can get a high resolution pic of it? On the website it seems to be a graphic mockup not the actual frameset.
> 
> Also, can the front fork fit a 160mm rotor on it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Alex


AR1 and F1 would also be much appreciated.


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## ozzgurr

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Where did you buy the bike? Couldn't the Felt USA customer service department just ship the parts you need to your dealer? I don't think Felt conducts B-C (business to consumer) transactions because of their dealer agreements. Dealers want to be able to be the exclusive source for Felt and Felt parts in North America AFAIK.
> 
> -SD


Thank you for your reply Dave. It doesn't matter where I bought it ! I bought it from authorized dealer, which is a really great bike shop. Felt should not hide behind fine prints or silly agreements that doesn't make sense.( I said silly because I can buy from Felt directly from your web page so you do conduct B-C transactions ) When Felt owner ask for damn *bolts* customer service should mail it (matter fact they should add Felt sticker or Felt water bottle) in order to exceed customer expectation, this is the requirement for current market conditions and actually they should do follow up call in a week...But this kind of service mind set is way to far for Felt LLC...You guys are just making excuses. Customer services should think what can they do in order to Felt owners keep rolling.


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## bleckb

ozzgurr said:


> .( I said silly because I can buy from Felt directly from your web page so you do conduct B-C transactions ).


At least where I am in North America, if I go to the website and choose a bike, the button says "buy local now" and provides shop information within my area and a good bit beyond. When it comes to apparel, I can buy online via "add to cart" or "buy local now" at the store. But at least on my computer, via my access to the internet, in my part of the world (Washington state) there is no buying a bike directly from Felt. 

In a somewhat related vein, my wife often tells me I'll catch more flies with honey than I will with vinegar.


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## walldoggy

ozzgurr said:


> Thank you for your reply Dave. It doesn't matter where I bought it ! I bought it from authorized dealer, which is a really great bike shop. Felt should not hide behind fine prints or silly agreements that doesn't make sense.( I said silly because I can buy from Felt directly from your web page so you do conduct B-C transactions ) When Felt owner ask for damn *bolts* customer service should mail it (matter fact they should add Felt sticker or Felt water bottle) in order to exceed customer expectation, this is the requirement for current market conditions and actually they should do follow up call in a week...But this kind of service mind set is way to far for Felt LLC...You guys are just making excuses. Customer services should think what can they do in order to Felt owners keep rolling.


Actually, it does matter where you bought it. I think Dave is saying that Felt has agreements with their authorized dealers to _*NOT *_sell bikes or service directly to customers. Doing so would undercut the dealer's business. The dealers want you to go to them for bike sales and service. 

So yeah, you need to work with your dealer on getting your bike fixed. And with the tone of your posts, all I can say is good luck with that.


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## bwbishop

ozzgurr said:


> Thank you for your reply Dave. It doesn't matter where I bought it ! I bought it from authorized dealer, which is a really great bike shop. Felt should not hide behind fine prints or silly agreements that doesn't make sense.( I said silly because I can buy from Felt directly from your web page so you do conduct B-C transactions ) When Felt owner ask for damn *bolts* customer service should mail it (matter fact they should add Felt sticker or Felt water bottle) in order to exceed customer expectation, this is the requirement for current market conditions and actually they should do follow up call in a week...But this kind of service mind set is way to far for Felt LLC...You guys are just making excuses. Customer services should think what can they do in order to Felt owners keep rolling.


Really? Can you send a link to where you can buy a bike directly from Felt? I'd love to see that. If your dealer is so great, then deal with them. Felt does not sell bikes B to C, so their customer service does not deal with C.


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## Harley-Dale

Dude, nobody will say it, so I will...you are out of line. Go work with the dealer you bought the bike from, or find a new dealer. If you have problems working directly with Felt, its because you do not understand what has been clearly stated here, and most likely told to you by your dealer if you asked--Felt expects dealers to provide the customer service. The dealer is the value add here. Use it.

And, apologize for being so rude. No excuse for your diatribe here.


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## bwbishop

Harley-Dale said:


> Dude, nobody will say it, so I will...you are out of line. Go work with the dealer you bought the bike from, or find a new dealer. If you have problems working directly with Felt, its because you do not understand what has been clearly stated here, and most likely told to you by your dealer if you asked--Felt expects dealers to provide the customer service. The dealer is the value add here. Use it.
> 
> And, apologize for being so rude. No excuse for your diatribe here.


Amen, thank you.


----------



## lowayne

Harley-Dale said:


> Dude, nobody will say it, so I will...you are out of line. Go work with the dealer you bought the bike from, or find a new dealer. If you have problems working directly with Felt, its because you do not understand what has been clearly stated here, and most likely told to you by your dealer if you asked--Felt expects dealers to provide the customer service. The dealer is the value add here. Use it.
> 
> And, apologize for being so rude. No excuse for your diatribe here.


He probably pulled that attitude with his shop and got nowhere, so now he is here.


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## Superdave3T

ozzgurr said:


> Thank you for your reply Dave. It doesn't matter where I bought it ! I bought it from authorized dealer, which is a really great bike shop. Felt should not hide behind fine prints or silly agreements that doesn't make sense.( I said silly because I can buy from Felt directly from your web page so you do conduct B-C transactions ) When Felt owner ask for damn *bolts* customer service should mail it (matter fact they should add Felt sticker or Felt water bottle) in order to exceed customer expectation, this is the requirement for current market conditions and actually they should do follow up call in a week...But this kind of service mind set is way to far for Felt LLC...You guys are just making excuses. Customer services should think what can they do in order to Felt owners keep rolling.


If Felt's customer service department in the USA was willing to send you the bolts free of charge to your Florida(?) dealer, why do you think they were unable to send them to you directly? As I understand it, these bolts were not damaged nor requested as a warranty, they were simply needed for the adjustment to the fit of your bicycle you were trying to make. I recall that the customer service team did in fact send out free bolts to your local dealer and you have them now, correct?

I'm not an expert on the procedures of the North American's distributor of the products I help develop but I understand that the automated component of the sales, warehouse, and shipping side would make it exceptionally difficult to use the US Mail. I also suspect that the inventory is not at the fingertips of the staff on the phones, an order is likely placed by them with a few clicks of the mouse so the parts can be retrieved and shipped to an already identified dealer.

What if you were incorrect or misunderstood the required length or torque of the bolts in question and some mishap befell you? Who would be liable and responsible for the improper installation?

I'm sorry to hear you are so unhappy. Please feel free to call me if you'd like to discuss anything further on the limitations of shipping free parts directly to consumers and I can try to put you in touch with the policy makers. Take note that I'll only be in the office for a few hours on Sunday and will be in Las Vegas for the Outdoor Demo and Interbike trade show the following week. After that I can be reached at 268 44 64 in the 949 area code.

If I'm mistaken and you still need these bolts for your DA, please let me know.

Regards,
Dave Koesel


----------



## Superdave3T

deviousalex said:


> Hi SuperDaveFelt,
> 
> I'm looking at a 2015 Felt F1X frameset. Is there some place where I can get a high resolution pic of it? On the website it seems to be a graphic mockup not the actual frameset.
> 
> Also, can the front fork fit a 160mm rotor on it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Alex


Alex,
Thanks for your email. I know that Mitch Hoke from TPC just posted a few photos of his F1x but I haven't had the chance to prep a frame and collect the studio photos just yet because they arrived so late. I've got Interbike all next week so I won't have the chance to get it done then so hopefully before the end of the month. I can try to snap some photos but my camera phone and poor lighting at CrossVegas won't result in good high res pix.

You can run a 160mm rotor on it and that size is recommended for some SRAM usage and when using mechanical disc brakes.

-Dave


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## Superdave3T

bungis said:


> Piggybacking off this gentleman's request:
> 
> 
> 
> AR1 and F1 would also be much appreciated.



Same situation, the frames were not completed when I collected the bicycle images that are on our site now. I'll get them photographed as soon as they are available. Probably end of Sept.

-SD


----------



## cooleshal

Does anyone know if the AR2 2015 comes with the 5 port DI2 junction box to facilitate the addition of TT shifters.

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

cooleshal said:


> Does anyone know if the AR2 2015 comes with the 5 port DI2 junction box to facilitate the addition of TT shifters.
> 
> Thanks



No, I only included the more expensive 5 port junction on the triathlon/TT bikes that require them and AR FRD and B2 models in 2015. Of course your dealer can swap the Junction A part for you and it is possible to connect the TT shifters can be plugged directly into the brake levers like the climbing and sprint shifters depending on your cable routing.

That AR2 is an incredible machine but some of our competitors with less sophisticated frame designs or house-branded budget wheels can offer an Ultegra Di2 bike for around $5000 USD and I didn't want to put too many additional spec features on the bike that add cost that only a few consumers would appreciate.

Hopefully that doesn't slow your enthusiasm for owning one!

-SD


----------



## cooleshal

Dave, thanks for the prompt reply, it is only a small upgrade and I understand Felt have to work to a price point. 

It won't slow my enthusiasm to buy the bike if I enjoy the test ride :wink5: .


----------



## SundayNiagara

Dave:
While I am disappointed the 2015 Z5 does not have a threaded bb, I am still interested in this bike. My question is; can one replace the oem bb with an aftermarket one such as Praxis, or Chris King and still keep the factory Felt warranty?
Thanks,
Mark


----------



## Superdave3T

SundayNiagara said:


> Dave:
> While I am disappointed the 2015 Z5 does not have a threaded bb, I am still interested in this bike. My question is; can one replace the oem bb with an aftermarket one such as Praxis, or Chris King and still keep the factory Felt warranty?
> Thanks,
> Mark


Mark,

Yes, of course. You can choose whatever BB you wish and retain the factory Felt warranty. As long as you don't actually modify the frame itself (machining, cutting, gluing, heating) you're good. I'm running a Praxis in my AR1 now and it's been trouble free and quiet. 

-SD


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Mark,
> 
> Yes, of course. You can choose whatever BB you wish and retain the factory Felt warranty. As long as you don't actually modify the frame itself (machining, cutting, gluing, heating) you're good. I'm running a Praxis in my AR1 now and it's been trouble free and quiet.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave.


----------



## danellerkamp

Hi SD,

I have a 2014 Felt B14 in a 56cm. I am upgrading to Ultegra 6870 Di2 with Felt's aero battery cover and battery mount on the down tube.

Do you happen to know the e-tube wire lengths for this frame size? I'm using a profile aeria aerobar and a 110mm length stem. Thanks in advance,

Dan


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dan, while I am a far cry from SuperDave, I might be able to help. I just upgraded my '13 B12 to 6870 DI2. I used the standard wire kit that came in the group. BUt, I did the internal battery. Is there a reason you want to do the external downtube battery?

My LBS installed the battery with foam surround inside the seat tube, since it will not fit inside the Felt aero seat post. He routed all wires interally, and it works very nice. Just maybe throw it out there as an option.

I suspect the wire lengths may be different if you go external battery, maybe not. But, the wire lengths I got in the kit were: 300mm, 550mm, 700mm and 1000mm. I cannot state that these will work for you with the external battery.

This link is a help too: CarltonBale.com » Shimano Ultegra and Dura-Ace Di2 Electronic Shifting ? Everything You Need to Know


----------



## FeltF75rider

I am considering a set of rollers but am concerned about using a carbon bike on them. Will the rollers cause undo stress on the bike, I know the trainers like the fluid II are not recommended and I sold mine for this reason. I am looking a realistic option for training when winter hits but I do not want to jeopardize my bike in the process. My F2 is my first carbon bike so I am learning about the do's and do not's and am really cautious.


----------



## Superdave3T

FeltF75rider said:


> I am considering a set of rollers but am concerned about using a carbon bike on them. Will the rollers cause undo stress on the bike, I know the trainers like the fluid II are not recommended and I sold mine for this reason. I am looking a realistic option for training when winter hits but I do not want to jeopardize my bike in the process. My F2 is my first carbon bike so I am learning about the do's and do not's and am really cautious.


Rollers are perfect. They'll wear through the tires a bit but introduce stress on the frame exactly as it is seen on the road. Compression not tension is the key here.

-SD


----------



## FeltF75rider

Awesome, thanks for the response Dave.


----------



## Skyhawke

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Rollers are perfect. They'll wear through the tires a bit but introduce stress on the frame exactly as it is seen on the road. Compression not tension is the key here.
> 
> -SD


OK, I am going to piggyback on this one.

With the cold approaching, I am looking at winter options besides my Kaiser M3 spin bike. I just upgraded to the 2015 Z3 and would like to use one of the newer smart trainers. I am down to the BKool (new black edition) or the Wahoo Kickr. Is there one design over the other that you'd suggest? I may be reading too much into your roller reply, but would either of the two options I just listed "induce stress differently as it is seen on the road"? And would this be detrimental to the bike/frame?


----------



## Superdave3T

Skyhawke said:


> OK, I am going to piggyback on this one.
> 
> With the cold approaching, I am looking at winter options besides my Kaiser M3 spin bike. I just upgraded to the 2015 Z3 and would like to use one of the newer smart trainers. I am down to the BKool (new black edition) or the Wahoo Kickr. Is there one design over the other that you'd suggest? I may be reading too much into your roller reply, but would either of the two options I just listed "induce stress differently as it is seen on the road"? And would this be detrimental to the bike/frame?


Any trainer that hangs the bike from the hub will introduce loads to the frame not seen while riding.

-Dave


----------



## rnico

Hi Dave,
Is there a noticeable difference between the Felt stem/handlebars and the 3T ones, respectively from the AR5 and AR3 bikes?
thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

rnico said:


> Hi Dave,
> Is there a noticeable difference between the Felt stem/handlebars and the 3T ones, respectively from the AR5 and AR3 bikes?
> thanks!


I would say there are measureable differences. Perhaps only noticeable to the exceptionally sensitive. The Felt bar/stem is probably 20-25g lighter than the 3T but has far less resale value.

-Dave


----------



## EightOhEight

I'm planning on fitting a Cannondale Hollowgram SiSL2 chainset to the Z1(2013) I'm building up. Does anyone know of any possible compatibility issues? Anyone know of a successful Z build with this chainset?
Thanks
808


----------



## ejprez

Just got a felt F5X and the spec says that the wheels are tubeless compatible. Which tubeless system or tires work with the TRS. I have valves and rim tape to seal them. Do I use standard tires or tubeless CX tires like the WTB TCS ones or Kenda SCT or UST?


----------



## krankenstein

Hi Superdave,

In terms of weight, stiffness, and durability, what is the difference between the 2014 F2 frame and the 2015 F2 frame with textreme? The reason I ask, is I was eyeing up a 2015 F2 at my lbs, and they offered me a deal on the 2014 F2. The 2015 has better wheels, the 2014 has sprint shifters standard. The one thing that is not too clear are the frame differences. Any insight you can share would be much appreciated.


----------



## mberthia

Does anyone know how long it will take to get the 2015 F65X in size 53cm in stock?
Dealer said they were out of stock at Felt. I assume they sold out of the early release bikes (US).


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Just got a felt F5X and the spec says that the wheels are tubeless compatible. Which tubeless system or tires work with the TRS. I have valves and rim tape to seal them. Do I use standard tires or tubeless CX tires like the WTB TCS ones or Kenda SCT or UST?


Rim tape, sealant, valve stems and tubeless compatible tires are all you need. The rim's bead is designed to be compatible with the rest of the tubeless ready items needed for conversion.

-SD


----------



## rnico

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I would say there are measureable differences. Perhaps only noticeable to the exceptionally sensitive. The Felt bar/stem is probably 20-25g lighter than the 3T but has far less resale value.
> 
> -Dave


Finally ordered an AR5. Now the hard part: waiting until November for delivery, argh


----------



## Superdave3T

rnico said:


> Finally ordered an AR5. Now the hard part: waiting until November for delivery, argh


Where are you located? What size did you order? These AR5 bikes for 2015 have been shipping since July; I'm surprised to hear they are sold out/backordered already.

-SD


----------



## deviousalex

Hi SuperdaveFelt,

Any info on when the Felt F1X frameset will be shipping? The bike store told me mid November and cross has already started .


----------



## rnico

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Where are you located? What size did you order? These AR5 bikes for 2015 have been shipping since July; I'm surprised to hear they are sold out/backordered already.
> 
> -SD


In France. I ordered one in 56 (I'm 182ish), and they had the 54 in stock at the store, but not the 56. The store called the distributor, but they confirmed the date for now.


----------



## Skyhawke

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Any trainer that hangs the bike from the hub will introduce loads to the frame not seen while riding.
> 
> -Dave


Would you include the KK New/Old Rock N Roll in this assesment as well?


----------



## FeltF75rider

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Where are you located? What size did you order? These AR5 bikes for 2015 have been shipping since July; I'm surprised to hear they are sold out/backordered already.
> 
> -SD


I am not surprised in the least. Great bikes go fast and everything about the AR (from what I have heard) is it's fantastic. Hope it's just a matter of a short wait and the model is not sold out already. Been there.


----------



## ess

*Hybrid fork on Z5*

Hi SD,

I am interested in the Z5 but note that the fork went from a full monocoque carbon to a hybrid steerer starting in 2014. I also keep eying the Z3 (which has been out of budget). My LBS doesn't keep both the Z5 and Z3 in stock, so I cannot easily do a comparison. I am happy with Shimano 105 level componentry, so the main difference for me appears to be the fork. in your opinion how much in comfort am I giving up with the aluminum steerer? I ride about 50-60 miles on a weekend ride. 

Thanks,
Eric


----------



## jrhz06

I'm building up an F1X with SRAM Red and noticed that the cable guide that goes on at the bottom bracket doesn't fit securely. The hole in the frame is larger than the guide insert. Is this normal or should there be a different, larger guide?

Thanks,
John


----------



## jrhz06

I'm building up an F1X with SRAM Red and noticed that the cable guide that goes on at the bottom bracket doesn't fit securely. The hole in the frame is larger than the guide insert. Is this normal or should there be a different, larger guide?

Thanks,
John


----------



## Skyhawke

ess said:


> Hi SD,
> 
> I am interested in the Z5 but note that the fork went from a full monocoque carbon to a hybrid steerer starting in 2014. I also keep eying the Z3 (which has been out of budget). My LBS doesn't keep both the Z5 and Z3 in stock, so I cannot easily do a comparison. I am happy with Shimano 105 level componentry, so the main difference for me appears to be the fork. in your opinion how much in comfort am I giving up with the aluminum steerer? I ride about 50-60 miles on a weekend ride.
> 
> Thanks,
> Eric


I've had both the 2014 Z5 and the 2015 Z3 this year. In short, no you won't feel the difference. The biggest difference going from the Z5 to the Z3 IMHO, was the wheel set and the crank. I am running 28c Gatorskins though so I am used to a different feel already.

I honestly had zero interest in upgrading my Z5, I had a goal of putting 3k on it, I got to 2617 before I snapped up a deal that was too good to pass up by my LBS. My goal was to ride the Z5 till the end of the year and upgrade both the wheel set and crank (via a Praxis adapter) over the winter for my 2015 season.

I live in Maine (read crappy pot-holed, cracked, bumpy roads) and ride anywhere from 150 to 250 miles a week. Most of my miles are from commuting (~35 a day) with nice long rides on the weekend. I've done 3 centuries on the Z5 and countless > 50 mile rides with no comfort problems at all (once the bike had been dialed in). 

If you can afford the Z3, go for it, otherwise go for the Z5 and just ride the crap out of it, you won't be sorry.


----------



## ess

Skyhawke said:


> I've had both the 2014 Z5 and the 2015 Z3 this year. In short, no you won't feel the difference. The biggest difference going from the Z5 to the Z3 IMHO, was the wheel set and the crank. I am running 28c Gatorskins though so I am used to a different feel already.
> 
> I honestly had zero interest in upgrading my Z5, I had a goal of putting 3k on it, I got to 2617 before I snapped up a deal that was too good to pass up by my LBS. My goal was to ride the Z5 till the end of the year and upgrade both the wheel set and crank (via a Praxis adapter) over the winter for my 2015 season.
> 
> I live in Maine (read crappy pot-holed, cracked, bumpy roads) and ride anywhere from 150 to 250 miles a week. Most of my miles are from commuting (~35 a day) with nice long rides on the weekend. I've done 3 centuries on the Z5 and countless > 50 mile rides with no comfort problems at all (once the bike had been dialed in).
> 
> If you can afford the Z3, go for it, otherwise go for the Z5 and just ride the crap out of it, you won't be sorry.



Thanks! That was very helpful.


----------



## Superdave3T

jrhz06 said:


> I'm building up an F1X with SRAM Red and noticed that the cable guide that goes on at the bottom bracket doesn't fit securely. The hole in the frame is larger than the guide insert. Is this normal or should there be a different, larger guide?
> 
> Thanks,
> John


Yes,
When Shimano redesigned their junction B from 15mm to 18mm in cross section we had to make the hole larger on the frame.
It sounds like you have a large hole for etube Di2 and a small plug for pre 2013 frames. A Felt Dealer can take care of you or you can look here:

Small Parts Kit (Cable Guides) - Felt Bicycles


-Dave


----------



## jrhz06

Thanks Dave. I'm really looking forward to getting this bike built. It should be a nice stable mate to my F5 Ltd.


----------



## biketango

At 5' 9"ish, I fall between sizes for the CX bikes but ended up buying a 53cm. Even though the TT Length is only 7mm shorter than my Road bike, the length from middle of seat to bar/stem intersect is 1 inch shorter than my Road Bike. 
I also get enough toe overlap that I have to pay attention on tight single track.

Would there be an advantage to go up to the 55cm and shortening my stem a bit to stretch it out and avoid the toe overlap? Or should I get a setback post and deal with the toe overlap?
Is there a disadvantage to knee/pedal positioning with my saddle set back?

By the way, this is my first CX bike. Usually I'm racing my HT 29er in fast singletrack.


----------



## Superdave3T

biketango said:


> At 5' 9"ish, I fall between sizes for the CX bikes but ended up buying a 53cm. Even though the TT Length is only 7mm shorter than my Road bike, the length from middle of seat to bar/stem intersect is 1 inch shorter than my Road Bike.
> I also get enough toe overlap that I have to pay attention on tight single track.
> 
> Would there be an advantage to go up to the 55cm and shortening my stem a bit to stretch it out and avoid the toe overlap? Or should I get a setback post and deal with the toe overlap?
> Is there a disadvantage to knee/pedal positioning with my saddle set back?
> 
> By the way, this is my first CX bike. Usually I'm racing my HT 29er in fast singletrack.


Yes, there are many advantages including additional room for portaging, stiffer frame and reduced bar input for directional changes.
It sounds like you want a capable bike in terms of off-road use. That shorter stem length will create a more similar steering geo to your MTB.

The larger frames typically have a slacker seat angle so when you position the saddle in the same KOPS position the effective reach gets shorter relatively speaking than a steeper seat angled machine.

-Dave


----------



## Skyhawke

Dave,

Welcome back from your trip. On the V85, what is the max tire width it will accept? I was just at my LBS talking about their plans for the V85 (possibly get them next month) and we couldn't find out the max tire width. Ironically we are now heading to LL Bean which is also a Felt dealer, they might be able to answer this in the interim. 

Im hoping to be able to fit a set of studded tires on this for winter use.


----------



## Skyhawke

Felt road and cyclocross bikes for 2015 - BikeRadar


Skyhawke said:


> Dave,
> 
> Welcome back from your trip. On the V85, what is the max tire width it will accept? I was just at my LBS talking about their plans for the V85 (possibly get them next month) and we couldn't find out the max tire width. Ironically we are now heading to LL Bean which is also a Felt dealer, they might be able to answer this in the interim.
> 
> Im hoping to be able to fit a set of studded tires on this for winter use.


OK, LL Bean didn't have any and didn't know either.

My LBS & I both had 35 or 38 on the mind but couldn't prove it. I just found this article saying 38c:
Felt road and cyclocross bikes for 2015 - BikeRadar

".._clearance for 38mm-wide tires_.."


----------



## bungis

Dave,

Do you have an update on when we can see pictures of the F1 and AR1?

Thank in advance.


----------



## Superdave3T

Skyhawke said:


> Dave,
> Welcome back from your trip. On the V85, what is the max tire width it will accept? I was just at my LBS talking about their plans for the V85 (possibly get them next month) and we couldn't find out the max tire width. Ironically we are now heading to LL Bean which is also a Felt dealer, they might be able to answer this in the interim.
> Im hoping to be able to fit a set of studded tires on this for winter use.


The max tire width depends on who makes the tire. I've got a 40c Clement tire mounted on an Ultegra wheel that fits in the V85 we've got here in the office. With a wider rim and a taller side-knob tire, you might be limited to ~35-38mm.

For most rim/tire combos I think 38c is a safe bet.

-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

bungis said:


> Dave,
> Do you have an update on when we can see pictures of the F1 and AR1?
> Thank in advance.


I have some photos, I just need to make some time to get them loaded to the site. Higher priorities and extensive travel have my focus elsewhere. I'll try to make some time this week.
Shoot me an email and I could just attach the raw .jpg files if you're impatient.
-SD


----------



## bungis

Thanks, look forward to seeing it on the site.


----------



## deviousalex

Hi SuperDaveFelt,

Is the F1X thru axle in both front and rear or just on the front? I'm trying to finalize my wheel build.

Thanks,
Alex


----------



## Superdave3T

deviousalex said:


> Hi SuperDaveFelt,
> 
> Is the F1X thru axle in both front and rear or just on the front? I'm trying to finalize my wheel build.
> 
> Thanks,
> Alex


The front is dedicated 100mm x 15mm thru axle as there are many options.
On the rear we kept it 135mm x 10mm with an open dropout because there are so few hubs and wheelsets that are set up to accept BOTH 142mm x 12mm thru axles AND 11 speed road cassettes.
On the other hand, brands like DT, American Classic, Novatech, etc... make 135mm x 10mm thru axle rear hub conversions so you can get both the versatility and stiffness if you opt for one of the few brands that do make 11s and thru axle.

-SD


----------



## deviousalex

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The front is dedicated 100mm x 15mm thru axle as there are many options.
> On the rear we kept it 135mm x 10mm with an open dropout because there are so few hubs and wheelsets that are set up to accept BOTH 142mm x 12mm thru axles AND 11 speed road cassettes.
> On the other hand, brands like DT, American Classic, Novatech, etc... make 135mm x 10mm thru axle rear hub conversions so you can get both the versatility and stiffness if you opt for one of the few brands that do make 11s and thru axle.
> 
> -SD


Thanks for the quick reply! Just to clarify, "open dropout" means it compatible with both a 135mm QR and a 135x10 thru axle? Sorry for the daft questions, I'm a bit of a newb with all this mtn bike terminology!


----------



## Superdave3T

deviousalex said:


> Thanks for the quick reply! Just to clarify, "open dropout" means it compatible with both a 135mm QR and a 135x10 thru axle? Sorry for the daft questions, I'm a bit of a newb with all this mtn bike terminology!


Yes, you are 100% correct. 135mm with standard 10mm axle and 5mm quick release or 135mm with a 10mm thru axle.

-SD


----------



## martyno

Hi Superdave,

Friday the 17th till the 20th of oktober there is a exhibition/Bike show called bike motion in the Netherlands. Will Felt be present? I really like te AR1 2015 and hope to see it at bike-motion.

MV


----------



## Superdave3T

martyno said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> Friday the 17th till the 20th of oktober there is a exhibition/Bike show called bike motion in the Netherlands. Will Felt be present? I really like te AR1 2015 and hope to see it at bike-motion.
> 
> MV


I doubt that Felt Bicycles will send any employees but it may be possible that the distributor in BeNeLux will be there. They will not have any 2015 AR1 framesets yet regardless.

-Dave


----------



## krankenstein

Hi Superdave,

I just received my 2015 F1 frame set, and I am psyched to build it. One thing I am surprised by is the BB appears to have a metal sleeve inserted instead of the Carbon Shell I was expecting. On the Felt site it clearly states: 
Frame:

Felt Race Road UHC Advanced + TeXtreme® carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, carbon fiber BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic compatible internal cable routing

Can you tell why the change in BB shell? And does this BB accept the Praxis Work conversion BB? Thanks in advanced.


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> I just received my 2015 F1 frame set, and I am psyched to build it. One thing I am surprised by is the BB appears to have a metal sleeve inserted instead of the Carbon Shell I was expecting. On the Felt site it clearly states:
> Frame:
> 
> Felt Race Road UHC Advanced + TeXtreme® carbon fiber, MMC w/ InsideOut construction, carbon fiber BB30 & dropouts, replaceable rear derailleur hanger, electronic compatible internal cable routing
> 
> Can you tell why the change in BB shell? And does this BB accept the Praxis Work conversion BB? Thanks in advanced.


The BB sleeve is indeed aluminum, not carbon on the 2015 F1. The change was made when the F FRD was introduced. I'll get the website fixed Monday.

Praxis fits in the aluminum shell, not the carbon shell.

-Dave


----------



## krankenstein

Hi Superdave,

Thanks for clarifying that. I chose the 2015 F1 over a deal on a 2014 F2, reasoning that the textreme 2015 F1 frame would be a bit lighter, how does the aluminum bb sleeve change that? Is the 2015 F1 frame lighter or heavier than the 2014 F2 frame? By how much? Thanks for your input.


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> Thanks for clarifying that. I chose the 2015 F1 over a deal on a 2014 F2, reasoning that the textreme 2015 F1 frame would be a bit lighter, how does the aluminum bb sleeve change that? Is the 2015 F1 frame lighter or heavier than the 2014 F2 frame? By how much? Thanks for your input.


I think the F1 should be about 30g heavier than the F2 frame with raw finish but the basic paint job of the F1 frameset likely offsets that depending on the size.

I've never weighed a production F2 frame by itself so I cannot be certain.

My educated guess is that a 48, 51, and 54cm F2 is lighter than the same size F1 and a 56, 58, and 61cm F1 is lighter than the same size F2.


----------



## krankenstein

Thanks for taking the time with your thorough replies, guess not much difference either way. I assume the stiffness number for the two are similar as well?


----------



## skinewmexico

So, is the top tube c-to-c on the Fx geometry chart what other manufacturers call effective top tube?


----------



## brawlo

Hey Superdave,

I have a 2012 F4 and am really happy with everything about the bike aside form the chainstay clearance for the tyres. I run Conti GP4000S with 23mm wide Kinlin rims and the clearance is only about 2mm on either side. I really would lie to go back to 25mm tyres and I'm looking at a bike upgrade.

Has there been any change to the chainstay clearance in the F series bikes since 2012?

Due to my height, I don't have many options to choose from bike wise to suit my fit. I'm really happy with my 2012 F4 and would love to stay with Felt, but only if they've done something about the tyre clearance.


----------



## FeltF75rider

My 2014 F2 is currently sitting on Vittoria 25mms tires with a set of Boyd Altamont wheels that are 23.3 mms wide and I have zero clearance issues. The F series Frame has been the same since 2011. It's close but no problems what so ever and I do have room but definitely not for a 28. I usually ride a 23 but put on the 25's on for a little bigger contact patch and more suitable tire for rain.


----------



## brawlo

FeltF75rider said:


> My 2014 F2 is currently sitting on Vittoria 25mms tires with a set of Boyd Altamont wheels that are 23.3 mms wide and I have zero clearance issues. The F series Frame has been the same since 2011. It's close but no problems what so ever and I do have room but definitely not for a 28. I usually ride a 23 but put on the 25's on for a little bigger contact patch and more suitable tire for rain.


I take it the Vittorias are slightly narrower than the Conti 25s I ran when I got the bike initially. They had around 1mm clearance and after approx 200km I found they had been rubbing the chainstays.


----------



## Superdave3T

brawlo said:


> Hey Superdave,
> 
> I have a 2012 F4 and am really happy with everything about the bike aside form the chainstay clearance for the tyres. I run Conti GP4000S with 23mm wide Kinlin rims and the clearance is only about 2mm on either side. I really would lie to go back to 25mm tyres and I'm looking at a bike upgrade.
> 
> Has there been any change to the chainstay clearance in the F series bikes since 2012?
> 
> Due to my height, I don't have many options to choose from bike wise to suit my fit. I'm really happy with my 2012 F4 and would love to stay with Felt, but only if they've done something about the tyre clearance.


I'm really surprised to hear this. Your frame is the same shape as the frame 1t4i and then Argos raced on. They used 25mm Vittoria EVO CX tires for the entire year. I've got a set of Felt's Speed A/W tires from our Z-series models that are 25mm wide and have plenty of clearance. I wonder if your frame has LOTS of paint on the inside of the frame. I think the 2012 model year had a SILVER painted option for the F4 in the USA.

The F-series has not changed frame shape since 2011 except for the all new F1 PR which has tire clearance for 33mm tires. Yes, 33mm.

-SD


----------



## skinewmexico

skinewmexico said:


> So, is the top tube c-to-c on the Fx geometry chart what other manufacturers call effective top tube?


Anyone? I'm just trying to decipher the 2 top tube measurements on the geo chart, to decide if I should gamble on a 55 instead of a 53cm.


----------



## tigerleghorn

Hi SD,

I was planning to fit the Praxis BB30 to my 2014 F4. The Praxis site seems to infer that their BB cannot be fitted to the F1 and 2 (because of the alu insert) but is compatible with the F3 and 4.

Would you mind clarifying please?


----------



## brawlo

skinewmexico said:


> Anyone? I'm just trying to decipher the 2 top tube measurements on the geo chart, to decide if I should gamble on a 55 instead of a 53cm.


Effective top tube measurement is the horizontal measurement. If you already have a fit set up, then you should be more concerned with the reach of a frame rather than the ETT as you will want the distances from the seat and bars from the BB to stay the same.


----------



## brawlo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I'm really surprised to hear this. Your frame is the same shape as the frame 1t4i and then Argos raced on. They used 25mm Vittoria EVO CX tires for the entire year. I've got a set of Felt's Speed A/W tires from our Z-series models that are 25mm wide and have plenty of clearance. I wonder if your frame has LOTS of paint on the inside of the frame. I think the 2012 model year had a SILVER painted option for the F4 in the USA.
> 
> The F-series has not changed frame shape since 2011 except for the all new F1 PR which has tire clearance for 33mm tires. Yes, 33mm.
> 
> -SD


Thanks for that Dave. Out of curiosity, is there any chance you could measure the distance between the chainstays at say the edge of the rim? It would be nice to see if I do have less clearance than other frames. For the record also, I have the carbon black/blue version F4. 

The F1-PR ignited my flame, but unfortunately it's still a tad smaller than what I want and they don't list it on the Australian website where I am, so presumably we're not going to see it here. Still, I could go for a 140mm stem and make it fit if it were really that good.


----------



## Superdave3T

brawlo said:


> Thanks for that Dave. Out of curiosity, is there any chance you could measure the distance between the chainstays at say the edge of the rim? It would be nice to see if I do have less clearance than other frames. For the record also, I have the carbon black/blue version F4.
> 
> The F1-PR ignited my flame, but unfortunately it's still a tad smaller than what I want and they don't list it on the Australian website where I am, so presumably we're not going to see it here. Still, I could go for a 140mm stem and make it fit if it were really that good.


It really is that good.

-SD


----------



## krankenstein

I was really intrigued by the F1 PR as well, and really wanted it, unfortunately 54 is the smallest size available. Any plans to offer a 51 in the future, Superdave?


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> I was really intrigued by the F1 PR as well, and really wanted it, unfortunately 54 is the smallest size available. Any plans to offer a 51 in the future, Superdave?


No, sir. No plans to expand beyond the current frame molds created for our Classics-riding Pros.

-SD


----------



## martyno

Superdave, is the text (name) on the AR1 2015 in silver or white?


----------



## bungis

I'm not Superdave but it looks like the picture was recently updated with a real world photo and it shows white text. Looks awesome imo.
FRAMESET: AR1 - Felt Bicycles


----------



## martyno

bungis said:


> I'm not Superdave but it looks like the picture was recently updated with a real world photo and it shows white text. Looks awesome imo.
> FRAMESET: AR1 - Felt Bicycles


It looks really awsome, i am going to order one real soon The previous picture of the ar1 2015 was with silver text.


----------



## ameenr

Superdave,

I just took delivery of my new AR FRD, and the seatpost seals have both already fallen out after two rides. Is there any way to order replacement seatpost seals?

Thanks!


----------



## applespeed

SuperDave,
Does the 2015 Felt F5 have an actual threaded BB or is it BB30 with a threaded sleeve insert? 
Thanks.


----------



## Jonnyn15

ameenr said:


> Superdave,
> 
> I just took delivery of my new AR FRD, and the seatpost seals have both already fallen out after two rides. Is there any way to order replacement seatpost seals?
> 
> Thanks!


FELT AR/IA seat post slot cover - Spares - Road - Parts from Europe. Can't see them on the USA site.

Dave, can you tell me why the 2015 F2 has an extra hole at the rear seat stay/chain stay and infront of the brake stop on the top tube? All I know is there was two plugs in the bag to plug them.


----------



## Jonnyn15

applespeed said:


> SuperDave,
> Does the 2015 Felt F5 have an actual threaded BB or is it BB30 with a threaded sleeve insert?
> Thanks.


Should be an alloy bb30 shell with an FSA reducer.


----------



## JimmyORCA

Dave

I seem to have a problem with my seat post, sometime when I hit a big bump on the road, the seat will slip and move. Anything I can do other than tighten the seat clamp?
View attachment 301675


----------



## Jonnyn15

I can't see that attachment. Which bike is it?

If it's carbon post in carbon frame then mark your seat height, remove the post and wipe it all clean. Same with the frame. Apply some sort of carbon paste such as fiber grip from finish line and torque to the specified torques.


----------



## JimmyORCA

Its a Ar FRD saddle clamp that I am having some problems with.


----------



## Jonnyn15

Is that the stock saddle? You may need different 3t difflock end caps for taller rails.

Scratch that, yours is the two cone shaped parts outlet together. Strip and clean it, add fiber grip to all the faces and torque to 10-12nm. 

The AR frame manual is on the felt site that shows the setup. The 3t system is far superior in my eyes but would mean a new seat post.


----------



## chudak

Jonnyn15 said:


> Should be an alloy bb30 shell with an FSA reducer.


Might want to fix the website then as it does actually say it's a threaded BB with a shimano hollowtech.


----------



## Lachapr

SD -

Are there any differences between the 2014 and 2015 AR frames (besides paint)? I am looking at moving over to the AR from my 2011 F5 Garmin edition frame... I am specifically looking at either the AR5 or AR1 frames.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan


----------



## Superdave3T

Lachapr said:


> SD -
> 
> Are there any differences between the 2014 and 2015 AR frames (besides paint)? I am looking at moving over to the AR from my 2011 F5 Garmin edition frame... I am specifically looking at either the AR5 or AR1 frames.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Ryan


Ryan,

For the AR5 there is no difference in 2015 and 2014.
For the AR1, the frame lay up is all new using TeXtreme carbon fiber and the fork is upgraded to use the exact same fork as the AR FRD.

The AR1 uses the same mold as the AR5 so there is no aerodynamic difference, just weight and ride quality.

-SD


----------



## Richard AR1

*New Felt 2014 AR FRD frame*

Hi Dave, I'm sorry to bother you with these questions but there isn't much expertise on Felt in Sth Aust .
I want to run shimano 6800 cranks on the 2014 frame. I've heard the internal carbon sleeve in the B/B stops me using some converters? Does that sleeve remove the need to use the circlips? There is no groove for them to click into? 
Do you have any suggestions on the best way to run 6800 cranks. I hate BB creaks. 
Also,the forks do no have bearing race on them, does it need one?

Thanks mate


----------



## tigerleghorn

Richard AR1 said:


> Hi Dave, I'm sorry to bother you with these questions but there isn't much expertise on Felt in Sth Aust .
> I want to run shimano 6800 cranks on the 2014 frame. I've heard the internal carbon sleeve in the B/B stops me using some converters? Does that sleeve remove the need to use the circlips? There is no groove for them to click into?
> Do you have any suggestions on the best way to run 6800 cranks. I hate BB creaks.
> Also,the forks do no have bearing race on them, does it need one?
> 
> Thanks mate


Hi Richard,

This is the best solution assuming your frame is compatible http://www.praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/PRAXIS-FRAME-GUIDE.pdf

Your frame isn't mentioned but a quick email to Praxis should clarify.

I use it on my 2014 F4 and it is faultless.


----------



## Superdave3T

tigerleghorn said:


> Hi Richard,
> 
> This is the best solution assuming your frame is compatible http://www.praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/PRAXIS-FRAME-GUIDE.pdf
> 
> Your frame isn't mentioned but a quick email to Praxis should clarify.
> 
> I use it on my 2014 F4 and it is faultless.


The Praxis only fault is that it won't fit his AR FRD frame. It's also a bit portly for the weight conscious crowd.
-SD


----------



## Richard AR1

thanks Tiger and Dave, I thought it might prevent a few adapters working.
I'm hopeful of the KCNC suitability.


----------



## headasunder

I have a felt f5 2012/13(i think). It has the felt hubs + cpx22 rims, I want to remove the freehub which needs attention, what size allen key do I need, it is larger than a 10mm


----------



## aratrus

SD the ar1 frame kit is available in italy? tnx


----------



## Superdave3T

headasunder said:


> I have a felt f5 2012/13(i think). It has the felt hubs + cpx22 rims, I want to remove the freehub which needs attention, what size allen key do I need, it is larger than a 10mm


12mm. It is not easy to remove and may require a vice and low-heat.

-Dave


----------



## headasunder

thanks Dave 
can confirm it is a 12mm accessed from the non drive side. Allen key standing upright in a vice did the trick. (had to swing on that wheel like I was doing a 3 point turn in a bus)

cheers pete


----------



## dirttime

*V85*

Question for Dave I suppose:
I've picked up a new V85 and have happily put a few dirt/gravel and pavement miles on it. Very enjoyable. I have been wondering what the graphics on the inside of the chain stays mean. I haven't been able to get the answer anywhere. Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

dirttime said:


> Question for Dave I suppose:
> I've picked up a new V85 and have happily put a few dirt/gravel and pavement miles on it. Very enjoyable. I have been wondering what the graphics on the inside of the chain stays mean. I haven't been able to get the answer anywhere. Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 303202


Control taper: headtube/steerer tube using 1.125" upper and 1.5" lower bearings and oversize headtube and downtube for added rigidity.
Hydroformed: A process of shaping the aluminum tubes using high pressure superheated fluid inside the tube and and rigid external molds to get wall thickness variances and shapes otherwise impossible with mandrel, cold worked, or drawing techniques


----------



## dirttime

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Control taper: headtube/steerer tube using 1.125" upper and 1.5" lower bearings and oversize headtube and downtube for added rigidity.
> Hydroformed: A process of shaping the aluminum tubes using high pressure superheated fluid inside the tube and and rigid external molds to get wall thickness variances and shapes otherwise impossible with mandrel, cold worked, or drawing techniques



That helps some, though it seems the left icon is representative of both a head tube (Control Taper) because of its shape and Hydroforming because of the water droplet. Not clear what the middle icon is, though matching it to marketing materials I was guessing "Custom Butted Tubing." The right symbol, which I don't think you addressed, is still somewhat mysterious, though I considered that maybe it was a representation of a disk brake caliper and rotor, indicating the frame was equipped with disk brake mounts. Care to clear that one up?

At least you confirmed they are intended to indicate frame features. My first reaction was that they might be suggestive of intended use, given that the bike is marketed as an "adventure" bike. That is the left for rainy weather, etc., the middle for race course, that right for urban use, representing a city map. That was way off I guess!

Seems to be some marketing/graphic artist gone a bit amuck. 
To be effective, they need to be reinforced in the literature and on the web site.

Thanks


----------



## Gary D

Hi Dave, I have a 2013 AR4 with stock Aero R3 wheels. Can you tell me how much these weigh?


----------



## aratrus

they claim 1700gr

http://2009.feltracing.com/09-catalog/parts/road-and-tri-parts/09-felt-aero-road-3-wheelset.aspx


----------



## loxx0050

SD or anybody else who knows....I need a new bolt/ screw for my 1" FSA headset bolt. This is for a 2012 B12 (this one B12 - Felt Bicycles) and it has a Felt Tornado cap. 

The lovely aluminum one that came with the bike is too fragile....aluminum is way to soft a material to use for screws IMO. My hand slipped tightening the thing back while making adjustments and that was enough to strip the hex head.


----------



## Superdave3T

loxx0050 said:


> SD or anybody else who knows....I need a new bolt/ screw for my 1" FSA headset bolt. This is for a 2012 B12 (this one B12 - Felt Bicycles) and it has a Felt Tornado cap.
> 
> The lovely aluminum one that came with the bike is too fragile....aluminum is way to soft a material to use for screws IMO. My hand slipped tightening the thing back while making adjustments and that was enough to strip the hex head.


Any hard-ware store bought stainless steel M6 x 1mm x ~30mmL counter-sunk bolt will do for your tornado top cap.

That bolt doesn't need to be tight, it only sets pre-load on the headset bearings. I agree high load bolts like the stem bolts shouldn't be aluminum but water bottle cage bolts, headset top caps and other low-load affixed bits are perfectly suited to 2024 or 7075. They are not heavy-handed mechanic friendly however.
-SD


----------



## loxx0050

Thanks SD. I'll admit, I used a little too much force but my hands were a little tired and shaking a bit from a long run I just finished prior to messing around with my stem and spacers. Tried to turn it before the allen wrench was properly seated. 

I'll take note next time I adjust it with a steel bolt since the headset itself is aluminum....I might consider installing a helicoil to avoid damaging the threads just in case but that might be overkill though.


----------



## tigerleghorn

Hi Guys, I have a F4 2014 model and am a bit confused with the description on various sites in the UK including the UK distributors Saddleback.

Saddleback describe the F4 as having quote:"electronic-compatible internal cable routing"

This has been picked up and used in the descriptions of UK retailers but I've never found any internal routing ports on my frame (not that I'm concerned as the Ultegra 6800 Mechanical set is wonderful)

Have I missed something and my frame could run DI2 or has there been a mistake in the specification page?

Btw, Saddleback are describing the 2015 F5 the same.


----------



## Superdave3T

tigerleghorn said:


> Hi Guys, I have a F4 2014 model and am a bit confused with the description on various sites in the UK including the UK distributors Saddleback.
> Saddleback describe the F4 as having quote:"electronic-compatible internal cable routing"
> This has been picked up and used in the descriptions of UK retailers but I've never found any internal routing ports on my frame (not that I'm concerned as the Ultegra 6800 Mechanical set is wonderful)
> Have I missed something and my frame could run DI2 or has there been a mistake in the specification page?
> Btw, Saddleback are describing the 2015 F5 the same.


It depends where you purchased your frame. USA frames come from a different production facility than UK for example. Japan often requests different colors than Germany. The global product line is not universally sold.

-Dave


----------



## tigerleghorn

SuperdaveFelt said:


> It depends where you purchased your frame. USA frames come from a different production facility than UK for example. Japan often requests different colors than Germany. The global product line is not universally sold.
> 
> -Dave


Thanks for the quick response SD. It does seem a little odd if the UK distributor is describing a product to both it's retailers and their buying public different to the one they are supplying and could be construed as misleading as it seems clear that the F4 on offer in the UK does not have internal cable routing as described.

Loving the bike though!


----------



## Superdave3T

tigerleghorn said:


> Thanks for the quick response SD. It does seem a little odd if the UK distributor is describing a product to both it's retailers and their buying public different to the one they are supplying and could be construed as misleading as it seems clear that the F4 on offer in the UK does not have internal cable routing as described.
> 
> Loving the bike though!


Are you in the UK? 
-SD


----------



## HawkeyeBike

Super Dave - I'm thinking of getting the new Felt Z75 Disc bike. Could you tell me what the weight of this bike is? Thank you.


----------



## tigerleghorn

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Are you in the UK?
> -SD


Yes Dave, I am. That's why I find it a little misleading.

If you go and check out Saddlebacks description of the 2015 F5 it will tell you that it has internal cabling like the 2014 F4 wheras in reality neither have in the UK.

Some retailers are also taking the same info and publishing it. I'm surprised it hasn't caused any issues with people buying the bike with a view to a future upgrade that isn't possible.

Like I said, it's not an issue for me as I'm happy with what I have. I was just puzzled as to where the ports were on the frame if it was indeed convertible.


----------



## riccardo123

SD, is there anything going on with UK distribution? Saddleback still have Felt on their website (and I agree with the previous poster that they aren't much help!), but a retailer recently told me they were now being asked to deal directly with Felt in Germany.


----------



## pixel_eater

*2015 F1 Frame/Fork weight?*

Aloha Superdave
I've checked Felt's site and searched the interwebs pretty thoroughly for the past month or so and I can't seem to get a figure on the frame/fork weight of an 2015 F1. Some have said that the F1 is replacing the FC in the Felt lineup, but the F1 still looks like an upgrade as it uses the UHC Advanced carbon in the frame and UHC Ultimate for the fork, where the FC had UHC Performance carbon in the frame and UHC Advanced for the fork. I'm looking to pick up a 58cm framekit, but want to avoid any surprises when I put it on the scale after purchase. Does you have any solid info on this?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Superdave3T

pixel_eater said:


> Aloha Superdave
> I've checked Felt's site and searched the interwebs pretty thoroughly for the past month or so and I can't seem to get a figure on the frame/fork weight of an 2015 F1. Some have said that the F1 is replacing the FC in the Felt lineup, but the F1 still looks like an upgrade as it uses the UHC Advanced carbon in the frame and UHC Ultimate for the fork, where the FC had UHC Performance carbon in the frame and UHC Advanced for the fork. I'm looking to pick up a 58cm framekit, but want to avoid any surprises when I put it on the scale after purchase. Does you have any solid info on this?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Yes, the F1 is an upgrade over the discontinued FC.
The frameset has a finished weight in a 56cm of ~1285g
-SD


----------



## pixel_eater

Thanks for the quick reply Superdave. That's right in line with what I was thinking. Sold!

Mahalo


----------



## Richard AR1

Hi, SuperDave, this is for you please.
I have just discovered my new Felt AR FRD frame has a nasty crack under the BB by the chain stay. I have contacted the retailer and I hope to have it replaced soon. I have ridden this bike for 3 weeks only and have not hit any holes etc. I'm devastated and considering the hills I've been coming down, quite lucky too, I noticed creaking on the first ride but thought It was the BB adaptor. No that noise was the frame opening and closing under load.
I am nervous about getting another FRD, have there been any faults showing up from other FRD owners since its release? I Can provide a picture if needed.

I trust you to give me any bad history his frame may have.
Thanks


----------



## elbowloh

Hi, i've just bought an F1 frameset and am looking to build up with a mechanical groupset. It came with a bag of attachments for using mechanical, but no instructions on how the bits go together. Is there a manual anywhere, can't find one on the Felt website?


----------



## c1guess

Hi, 

can someone help me make a decision. I am trying to decide between the new AR1 Frameset, the AR5 complete bike and the F1 frameset. I use the bike for cross training, a couple of triathlons a year and longer solo rides. I currently have the new SRAM Force 22 groupset, so I would be swapping the Shimano 105 groupset out of the AR5. I have a budget, so money does make a difference. I can't find much information on the F1 frameset, but its 900 dollars cheaper, which would allow me to purchase a nice set of carbon wheels. I love the AR1 frame, but don't understand why it's 900 dollars more expansive. Has anyone put aero bars on the F1 for a triathlon? Is a better set of wheels on the F1 more aerodynamic then a cheaper set on the more aerodynamic AR1 frame?

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Trying to place order this week. 

Also, which I could try out each bike, but LBS doesn't have either bike in my size in stock and it's negative ten degres in Michigan right now, so not an option.


----------



## jpaschal01

c1guess said:


> Hi,
> 
> can someone help me make a decision. I am trying to decide between the new AR1 Frameset, the AR5 complete bike and the F1 frameset. I use the bike for cross training, a couple of triathlons a year and longer solo rides. I currently have the new SRAM Force 22 groupset, so I would be swapping the Shimano 105 groupset out of the AR5. I have a budget, so money does make a difference. I can't find much information on the F1 frameset, but its 900 dollars cheaper, which would allow me to purchase a nice set of carbon wheels. I love the AR1 frame, but don't understand why it's 900 dollars more expansive. Has anyone put aero bars on the F1 for a triathlon? Is a better set of wheels on the F1 more aerodynamic then a cheaper set on the more aerodynamic AR1 frame?
> 
> Any information would be greatly appreciated. Trying to place order this week.
> 
> Also, which I could try out each bike, but LBS doesn't have either bike in my size in stock and it's negative ten degres in Michigan right now, so not an option.


I'd go with the AR1. Wait, I just ordered an AR1 so I really did go with it. $900 isn't going to buy a great set of carbon wheels anyway.


----------



## easyridernyc

c1guess said:


> Hi,
> 
> can someone help me make a decision. I am trying to decide between the new AR1 Frameset, the AR5 complete bike and the F1 frameset. I use the bike for cross training, a couple of triathlons a year and longer solo rides. I currently have the new SRAM Force 22 groupset, so I would be swapping the Shimano 105 groupset out of the AR5. I have a budget, so money does make a difference. I can't find much information on the F1 frameset, but its 900 dollars cheaper, which would allow me to purchase a nice set of carbon wheels. I love the AR1 frame, but don't understand why it's 900 dollars more expansive. Has anyone put aero bars on the F1 for a triathlon? Is a better set of wheels on the F1 more aerodynamic then a cheaper set on the more aerodynamic AR1 frame?
> 
> Any information would be greatly appreciated. Trying to place order this week.
> 
> Also, which I could try out each bike, but LBS doesn't have either bike in my size in stock and it's negative ten degres in Michigan right now, so not an option.


if you're gonna go tri, think aero. the frameset and the aero wheels, they are designed for that level of competition, I would think. the frame costs more cause it kicks ass and will get you across the finish line faster. 

if you're gonna race road, the f1 is one of the best bicycles, pound for pound, in the world. again, designed primarily for road racing. its tempting, I know. but it sounds like the ar1 is the move. good luck bro..dave will gave you his two cents


----------



## Superdave3T

c1guess said:


> Hi,
> 
> can someone help me make a decision. I am trying to decide between the new AR1 Frameset, the AR5 complete bike and the F1 frameset. I use the bike for cross training, a couple of triathlons a year and longer solo rides. I currently have the new SRAM Force 22 groupset, so I would be swapping the Shimano 105 groupset out of the AR5. I have a budget, so money does make a difference. I can't find much information on the F1 frameset, but its 900 dollars cheaper, which would allow me to purchase a nice set of carbon wheels. I love the AR1 frame, but don't understand why it's 900 dollars more expansive. Has anyone put aero bars on the F1 for a triathlon? Is a better set of wheels on the F1 more aerodynamic then a cheaper set on the more aerodynamic AR1 frame?
> 
> Any information would be greatly appreciated. Trying to place order this week.
> 
> Also, which I could try out each bike, but LBS doesn't have either bike in my size in stock and it's negative ten degres in Michigan right now, so not an option.


Where in Michigan are you? Lots of options for checking out AR in SE MI.
The AR1 has countless hours of CFD and tunnel time, requires more extensive manufacturing development and costs and includes a seatpost with its package.
It'll likely give you more net speed for your purpose than an F1 and $900 wheels would.

-SD


----------



## bratz

Just ordered an AR5 and collecting it tomorrow...any AR5 owner could confirm if it will come with all the cable stop/plug needed if I converted to electronic groupset.

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

Richard AR1 said:


> Hi, SuperDave, this is for you please.
> I have just discovered my new Felt AR FRD frame has a nasty crack under the BB by the chain stay. I have contacted the retailer and I hope to have it replaced soon. I have ridden this bike for 3 weeks only and have not hit any holes etc. I'm devastated and considering the hills I've been coming down, quite lucky too, I noticed creaking on the first ride but thought It was the BB adaptor. No that noise was the frame opening and closing under load.
> I am nervous about getting another FRD, have there been any faults showing up from other FRD owners since its release? I Can provide a picture if needed.
> 
> I trust you to give me any bad history his frame may have.
> Thanks


I'm not familiar with any failures ever actually. I'm finally on the AR FRD and have routinely taken it to 55mph+ on one of my favorite cycling routes. I'd love if you could email me photos at davekoesel at feltbicycles dot com.


----------



## Superdave3T

elbowloh said:


> Hi, i've just bought an F1 frameset and am looking to build up with a mechanical groupset. It came with a bag of attachments for using mechanical, but no instructions on how the bits go together. Is there a manual anywhere, can't find one on the Felt website?


Where did you buy it? Can't you ask them for the manual?
There are 3 parts. The plastic part bolts into the BB by covering the hole and expanding the small aluminum wedge to hold it in place. The small metal single cable stop bolts to the chainstay, the larger 2 cable stop piece bolts to the bottom of the downtube. 3.5Nm on the bolts MAX.
https://2013.feltracing.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/Bikes/_0039_road-cable-routing_Sml.png.png


-Dave


----------



## bratz

bratz said:


> Just ordered an AR5 and collecting it tomorrow...any AR5 owner could confirm if it will come with all the cable stop/plug needed if I converted to electronic groupset.
> 
> Thanks


Hi Dave,

Just read parts of this thread and realized that you're working with Felt. Wondering if you have any info on this as I just bought this complete bike. Bike is already assembled in the shop and I m having them to be disassembled/repack in a box as I'm not local to shop and flying back ro my country. Just wanna confirm that I received all the parts that came with it.

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

bratz said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Just read parts of this thread and realized that you're working with Felt. Wondering if you have any info on this as I just bought this complete bike. Bike is already assembled in the shop and I m having them to be disassembled/repack in a box as I'm not local to shop and flying back ro my country. Just wanna confirm that I received all the parts that came with it.
> 
> Thanks


I do not think the AR3/4/5 come equipped with the electronic convertible plugs in 2015. This practice was to be discontinued in 2015 as the parts are now readily available from Felt.

-Dave


----------



## bratz

Thanks Dave for your prompt reply


----------



## elbowloh

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Where did you buy it? Can't you ask them for the manual?
> There are 3 parts. The plastic part bolts into the BB by covering the hole and expanding the small aluminum wedge to hold it in place. The small metal single cable stop bolts to the chainstay, the larger 2 cable stop piece bolts to the bottom of the downtube. 3.5Nm on the bolts MAX.
> https://2013.feltracing.com/Resources/ProductPhotos/Bikes/_0039_road-cable-routing_Sml.png.png
> 
> 
> -Dave


Thanks Dave. I contacted my dealer. They sent me photos of a F2 with a mechanical groupset installed, so all fine.
On another note. I noticed that there is a "step" within the BB30 shell. Does this mean that I do not need to install the circlips for the bb bearings (there is no groove)?


----------



## Superdave3T

elbowloh said:


> Thanks Dave. I contacted my dealer. They sent me photos of a F2 with a mechanical groupset installed, so all fine.
> On another note. I noticed that there is a "step" within the BB30 shell. Does this mean that I do not need to install the circlips for the bb bearings (there is no groove)?


Yes, the carbon BB shells do not require the C-clips.
-SD


----------



## Jonnyn15

Hi Dave, wondering why the TK1 or the framset isn't available through Felt Europe?

They seem to be used by the Ireland team and a spanish team but nobody can buy one even if they have a fleet of Felt bikes already.


----------



## Superdave3T

Jonnyn15 said:


> Hi Dave, wondering why the TK1 or the framset isn't available through Felt Europe?
> They seem to be used by the Ireland team and a spanish team but nobody can buy one even if they have a fleet of Felt bikes already.


That's a bit complicated. The Tk1 isn't offered to any other distributor other than the US largely because the US distributor spearheaded the development for the 2008 Olympic team.

2016 is an Olympic year and I expect that policy will change and you'll be able to source the current Tk1 globally.

-SD


----------



## aratrus

Dave, are the bb bearings and 24 mm adaptor included in the ar1 frameset kit?


----------



## elbowloh

aratrus said:


> Dave, are the bb bearings and 24 mm adaptor included in the ar1 frameset kit?


They were with the F1 frameset kit I bought, so I'd assume so...


----------



## aratrus

this is the content of accessories box in my frameset


----------



## elbowloh

Yes, looks like you didn't get one.

This is my parts box that came with my frameset. I got the FSA BB30 ceramic bearings and the 24mm reducers.


----------



## Superdave3T

aratrus said:


> this is the content of accessories box in my frameset
> View attachment 304088


Where did you buy your AR1 frameset?
Looks like you need to swap your upper headset bearing and compression ring, too. Very early shipments used 41,0mm O.D. 36/45 bearings (IS). The correct size is 41.8mm O.D. 45/45 (Campy) and they were replaced at the warehouse level prior to shipment.
-SD


----------



## aratrus

this is a close up of the headset. Dave you have PM 
View attachment 304096


----------



## elbowloh

Sorry Dave, but further to my post above, I did get a headset, but no fork crown race. Any idea what one I need?


----------



## aratrus

Same here, maybe is not needed


----------



## Superdave3T

elbowloh said:


> Sorry Dave, but further to my post above, I did get a headset, but no fork crown race. Any idea what one I need?


We don't use crown races, we build them into the forks to increase the strength by using a tapered transition from the steerer to the crown instead of an abrupt 90 degree machined edge. It also serves to reduce the weight because no metal race is needed and the area can be built hollow because it does not need to withstand the load of the pressed-on race + the headset impact loads. It only has to do one of those jobs.

Better engineering, not missing parts.

-SD


----------



## elbowloh

SuperdaveFelt said:


> We don't use crown races, we build them into the forks to increase the strength by using a tapered transition from the steerer to the crown instead of an abrupt 90 degree machined edge. It also serves to reduce the weight because no metal race is needed and the area can be built hollow because it does not need to withstand the load of the pressed-on race + the headset impact loads. It only has to do one of those jobs.
> 
> Better engineering, not missing parts.
> 
> -SD


Thanks yet again Dave!


----------



## robt57

Question for Felt Dave.

How viable is an older good condition F1R Scandium frame. I got one on my radar I am thinking about grabbing and building up with a loose groupo I have.

Thanks


----------



## Superdave3T

robt57 said:


> Question for Felt Dave.
> 
> How viable is an older good condition F1R Scandium frame. I got one on my radar I am thinking about grabbing and building up with a loose groupo I have.
> 
> Thanks


They are great, until they're not. Hard to tell from your post what kind of condition it is in, the riding it has seen, and your expectations for longevity.
We made the lightest aluminum frames on the planet for some time before our investment into carbon. The bikes were exceptional but not indestructible.

-SD


----------



## robt57

SuperdaveFelt said:


> They are great, until they're not. Hard to tell from your post what kind of condition it is in, the riding it has seen, and your expectations for longevity.
> We made the lightest aluminum frames on the planet for some time before our investment into carbon. The bikes were exceptional but not indestructible.
> 
> -SD



Thanks, I will judge the risk based on negotiated price.


----------



## henners89

*Di2 dropped chain/frame flex on AR1*

Hi,
I recently bought a 2015 AR1 with Ultegra Di2/rotor cranks/praxis rings, set up by my LBS. I've had quite a few dropped chains going from big to little in the front. The LBS has said it's probably down to the frame being too flexy .... surely this can't be right on a bike designed for di2? Any thoughts much appreciated!


----------



## henners89

Hi,
I recently bought a 2015 AR1 with Ultegra Di2/rotor cranks/praxis rings, set up by my LBS. I've had quite a few dropped chains going from big to little in the front. The LBS has said it's probably down to the frame being too flexy .... surely this can't be right on a bike designed for di2? Any thoughts much appreciated!


----------



## Harley-Dale

When the Di2 is first setup, the trim needs to be set on the front (and rear) derailleurs. My guess they didnt do that.

Could also be chainline is out of whack. It sounds like they went an aftermarket crankset, and possibly didnt set it up correctly. Spacers must be used correctly or the chainline will be messed up.

Finally, install a K-Edge chain catcher for the rare times it happens. My B12 is setup perfectly, but there are a couple times the catcher saved the chain from being sucked, based on the scratches on the catcher. Cheap protection for the frame, in case it happens.


----------



## henners89

Thanks for the reply.
Do you have any links on how to set up the trim and the chain line?
Thanks


----------



## Harley-Dale

Here is a link to all Shimano tech docs: SHIMANO Dealer's Manual / User's Manual

A lot of great info on each component there. Also, download the e-Tube application to setup the Di2 system. E-tube Project

If you dont have an interface, buy one. Otherwise you will have to rely on the shop for all Di2 maintenence and adjustments. I use my LBS to maintain my adjustments, but have the interface to update firmware and to setup shifter buttons (I have a tri bike with bar-end and brake lever shifters).

Look at the manual to adjust the Front and Rear derailleurs physically (inner and outer range of adjustements). Only then should you adjust the derailleurs with the eTube software: http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/img/help_manual_pdf/en/HM-R.2.8.1-00-EN.pdf

Hope this helps. As you can see, it can be a little complex to get it all adjusted perfectly, but just need to follow the steps.


----------



## Superdave3T

henners89 said:


> Hi,
> I recently bought a 2015 AR1 with Ultegra Di2/rotor cranks/praxis rings, set up by my LBS. I've had quite a few dropped chains going from big to little in the front. The LBS has said it's probably down to the frame being too flexy .... surely this can't be right on a bike designed for di2? Any thoughts much appreciated!


PLEASE share with me who this LBS of yours is. I'd love to hear their explanation on how a "flexy frame" causes the chain to drop on a shift down to the small chainring. Exactly what area of the frame would need to flex to move the inner chainring OUTBOARD to miss the falling chain from the big ring. 

I'm sorry you've been exposed to such lunacy. Ignore for a moment that the AR1 has already won over 25 professional races and is used by the current US National crit champion with Ultegra Di2, what would an increase in stiffness do in the cases you are describing?

I'd love to hear from the LBS.

-SD


----------



## spkinak

I bought a zw1 frameset for my wife for Xmas. I am just getting around to building the bike- frame size small with ultegra 6800 groupset. Almost done but found out that the brake pad holders rub on the fork. Small frame comes with a 50 or 53mm rake fork which is likely the cause of the problem. Can I use two mounting bolt washers to provide clearance? What does felt do with small frames built at the factory to prevent the brake pad holders from touching/rubbing the fork?


----------



## krankenstein

Hi Superdave,

I am building up a 2015 F1 frame kit with Shimano Di2. Looking in the box, it doesn't seem to come with the rubber plugs that fills the hole surrounding Di2 cable. Looking on the Felt site, I found this: Frame Plug Kit - Felt Bicycles
According to the site, this is for AR-series frames. Will it work for F-series frames? If not, where can I get the plugs like the ones on the F2?
I am not asking about the mechanical cable guides, those are in the box in a little bag. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> I am building up a 2015 F1 frame kit with Shimano Di2. Looking in the box, it doesn't seem to come with the rubber plugs that fills the hole surrounding Di2 cable. Looking on the Felt site, I found this: Frame Plug Kit - Felt Bicycles
> According to the site, this is for AR-series frames. Will it work for F-series frames? If not, where can I get the plugs like the ones on the F2?
> I am not asking about the mechanical cable guides, those are in the box in a little bag. Thanks for your help.


The grommets are specific to the Di2 group and hole you need to plug. Felt does not include these items, they are made by Shimano.
If you're running the wires through the 8mm holes (F/D, bottom of chainstay, bottom of DT, chainstay battery mount) use these: Shimano GM02 Di2 E-Tube Frame Grommets (7mm x 8mm oval) 4 pcs (CY6784) 
If you're using the 6mm holes in the top tube and dropout and internal battery, use these: Shimano GM02 Di2 E-Tube Frame Grommets (7mm x 8mm oval) 1 pcs (CY6784) and Shimano GROMMET SM-GM01 Di2 (6mm CIRCLE) x 2pcs


----------



## Superdave3T

spkinak said:


> I bought a zw1 frameset for my wife for Xmas. I am just getting around to building the bike- frame size small with ultegra 6800 groupset. Almost done but found out that the brake pad holders rub on the fork. Small frame comes with a 50 or 53mm rake fork which is likely the cause of the problem. Can I use two mounting bolt washers to provide clearance? What does felt do with small frames built at the factory to prevent the brake pad holders from touching/rubbing the fork?


When the cable is adjusted to the proper position do the pads still touch?

You can use a 2.5mm brake washer, Shimano brakes typically come with these.
-SD


----------



## krankenstein

Ok, thanks!


----------



## krankenstein

Sorry, quick follow up. 

I will be using the 6mm holes (current 11sp Di2) with internal battery. So I will get these: Shimano GM02 Di2 E-Tube Frame Grommets (7mm x 8mm oval) 1 pcs (CY6784) and Shimano GROMMET SM-GM01 Di2 (6mm CIRCLE) x 2pcs.

But what do I use to to plug up the unused 8mm holes (F/D, bottom of chainstay, bottom of DT, chainstay battery mount)?


----------



## spkinak

I am using the washer that came with the brakes. When you flip open the lever to remove the wheel the brake rubs and scratches the front of the fork and then gets stuck a little on the front of the fork and scratches it again when I force it closed again. What does the factory build look like on a small frame. I zoomed in on a picture of a zw3 or 4 on the felt website and it looks like there maybe sometihing else besides the washer that came with the brakes between the brake and fork.


----------



## Superdave3T

spkinak said:


> I am using the washer that came with the brakes. When you flip open the lever to remove the wheel the brake rubs and scratches the front of the fork and then gets stuck a little on the front of the fork and scratches it again when I force it closed again. What does the factory build look like on a small frame. I zoomed in on a picture of a zw3 or 4 on the felt website and it looks like there maybe sometihing else besides the washer that came with the brakes between the brake and fork.


A 2.5mm serrated washer
-Dave


----------



## spkinak

Thanks!


----------



## samh

*felt ar*



spkinak said:


> Thanks!


How much space does rear have for 28mm or 25mm tires? Seatpost is proprietary, only this brand/model will fit??Will you have direct mount brakes in the future on this or TT models?


----------



## Superdave3T

samh said:


> How much space does rear have for 28mm or 25mm tires? Seatpost is proprietary, only this brand/model will fit??Will you have direct mount brakes in the future on this or TT models?


I've run 27mm tires on my AR. The fit is tight but clears. There are three seatpost options offering four saddle positions, differing offsets, saddle mounts, etc. No other seatpost makers offer our patented clamping mechanisms.
We use Shimano direct mount rear brakes on the AR and will probably continue to use Shimano's latest systems on future products.


----------



## bbouffiou

*V85*

hello SD and fellows, 

I recently ordered a felt v85 56cm adventure road bike from my lbs in january, and now march is halfway through and I'm starting to get anxious to get on the new bike. just wondering if anyone from felt can give me an idea of when I might expect to see the bike. the v100 and v95f have made it to the shop, but the owner and ordering manager tell me the 85 is backordered and can't give any sort of ETA. anyone there at felt know when the v85 will begin shipping? 

Felt Bicycles | V85


----------



## dnuzzomueller

I have 2 quick questions for the Felt guys here about the 2015 AR2.

Does it come with sprint shifters? The 2014 year model did but the current Felt specs books doesn't specify if they are on the bike or not. After my shop called the inside rep and asked he said "I would be surprised if it doesn't, but I am not sure, it could be a error [omission] in our book". Not a big deal but I am curious if it does or doesn't

Does the bike come with an Aeronova or Aerotundo bar? The specs say Aerotundo but the image on your site makes it look much more like the profile of the Aeronova.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Boulderguy10

I have a Felt rear 130 hub, cartridge bearings with steel freehub & left-hand threads on the drive side locknuts. Nothing fancy, probably OEM.

It appears it's missing a bushing between the 10mm axle & the 12.1mm inner bearing races, approx 20mm long. Is it possible to source that part from Felt or am I digging thru McMaster's catalog for that? Approx size is 10x12x20 (IDxODxH)


----------



## dnuzzomueller

dnuzzomueller said:


> I have 2 quick questions for the Felt guys here about the 2015 AR2.
> 
> Does it come with sprint shifters? The 2014 year model did but the current Felt specs books doesn't specify if they are on the bike or not. After my shop called the inside rep and asked he said "I would be surprised if it doesn't, but I am not sure, it could be a error [omission] in our book". Not a big deal but I am curious if it does or doesn't
> 
> Does the bike come with an Aeronova or Aerotundo bar? The specs say Aerotundo but the image on your site makes it look much more like the profile of the Aeronova.
> 
> Thanks guys.


To anwser my own question for someone else:

AR2 2015 does not come with sprint shifters

AR2 2015 has Aerotundos so they are deep drop bars, not like the Felt Website picture.

Side Note: A 10 speed cassette works pretty darn well with an 11 speed chain and Di2 11 speed, just adjust the low limit so it cant go into the spokes and it really shifts quite well.


----------



## jemsurvey

Have a couple quick questions about the women's ZW1 frameset:

1) Are there water bottle bosses on the down tube and seat tube on the petitte size 43? I have seen some small frames without bottle attachments on the seat tube.

2) Does the frameset come with a bottom bracket and will I need an adaptor for Shimano cranks?

Thanks for the help,
John


----------



## jpaschal01

Posting a couple of pictures in this thread of my new AR1. 

Why? 

Because I've used a ton of into from the thread and shared elsewhere in these forums by SuperDave to make decisions on my build of this bike. In fact, I moved back to a Felt for several reasons and one of them is the service / support that is provided by SuperDave here. More photos and bike specs over in the Felt bike photos thread.


----------



## aratrus

Where i Can find a felt jersey like this?
https://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1...bib-short-cycling-skinsuit-cycling-jersey.jpg

Not from aliexpress pls


----------



## jpaschal01

aratrus said:


> Where i Can find a felt jersey like this?
> https://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1...bib-short-cycling-skinsuit-cycling-jersey.jpg
> 
> Not from aliexpress pls


Design has changed a bit, but there is nice looking stuff on their website. https://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2015/Apparel/Performance/Men-s.aspx


----------



## Omad65

Howdy,
First time poster on this site but by the looks of the info here I'd say it will be the first of many. I'm looking for some assistance on my bike build. I have bought my first felt (an AR1 frame set) in the last couple of weeks. This is my first bike build and as such there are a few areas I am not entirely sure of.
First off, the frame set was supplied with FSA head set bearings. I have assembled this loosely but would like some confirmation re. the correct set up before I tighten everything home and cut the steerer tube. Is there a schematic or Felt instruction covering the specified install process?
Secondly, the frame takes internally routed cables and came with 'mouse tails' already run through the frame. I have a new Ultegra 6800 group set to install and was not sure if the full cables (inner cable and shroud) run through the frame of do I need to terminate the cable at entry to the frame, and just run the inner cables internally? If it is just the inner cable that are run in the frame, do the mouse tails become a permanent feature or should they be removed so that the inner cable are 'bare' within the frame.
Apologies if these seem like simple question but I would appreciate any assistance you could give.
Cheers
Damien


----------



## cooleshal

Hi 

I have recently bought an AR FRD and have two questions.

1. Rear Brakes: I have a set of 25mm wide carbon wheels which I cannot use with the supplied pads unless i remove the convex washer behinds the brake block. Is this ok to do - I know that shimano and others offer narrower brake pads to overcome this issue with wide rimmed wheels. 

2. Quick Release Skewers: Reading the blurb that came with my Campagnolo/Fulcrum wheels they state skewers may not be suitable for carbon dropouts and to seek advice from manufacturers if in doubt. Well I am in doubt and would appreciate to know Felt's line on the use of QR skewers with carbon drop outs.

Other than that I am really loving the bike, it has aslo gained a lot of admirers at my club.


----------



## tigerleghorn

I think you need the washer in order to "Toe in" the blocks for finer adjustments.

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than myself will confirm either way for you!


----------



## Superdave3T

krankenstein said:


> Sorry, quick follow up.
> 
> I will be using the 6mm holes (current 11sp Di2) with internal battery. So I will get these: Shimano GM02 Di2 E-Tube Frame Grommets (7mm x 8mm oval) 1 pcs (CY6784) and Shimano GROMMET SM-GM01 Di2 (6mm CIRCLE) x 2pcs.
> 
> But what do I use to to plug up the unused 8mm holes (F/D, bottom of chainstay, bottom of DT, chainstay battery mount)?


Many options here:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=8mm+hole+plugs&tbm=shop

Aftermarket framekits include a similar plug but we just buy a standard parts like the ones in the link I provided.

-SD


----------



## cooleshal

tigerleghorn said:


> I think you need the washer in order to "Toe in" the blocks for finer adjustments.
> 
> I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than myself will confirm either way for you!


You are correct about the function of the washer, following a 100 mile ride I have sufficiently worn the pads for the washer to be reinstated. Hopefully I have enough toe in for the screeeech from the rear wheel to disappear, otherwise I am going to annoy a few guys this weekend as we tackle local hills. When it is time to replace the brakes I will defintely purchase the 1mm narrower blocks. 

I would still be interested to hear the company line from Felt regarding any restricitions on the use of Q/R skewers on carbon dropouts.


----------



## Harley-Dale

Brakes? What do you need those for? :aureola:

If you follow the instructions for the correct adjustment for the QR skewers, I think that could be considered the company line. I set mine a little less snug than a metal-based dropout, but not much. No issues and the serrations on the skewer nuts keep the wheels from moving or loosening.

I know you want SD to reply, but thought I would chip in my personal observations with 2 Felt carbon bikes.


----------



## riccardo123

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, they'll fit. I would HIGHLY recommend the Paris-Roubaix tire from Challenge in their open tubular casing. Probably the best riding tire available today and far more supple than the typical 127tpi 28mm tires you'll find. Very few wire tires are available with performance casing and the Challenge adds a puncture resistant bent under the tread to boot.
> 
> I'm hooked.
> 
> -SD
> 
> -SD


Hi Dave, a supplementary question - do the Strada Bianche tyres fit a Z bike? They are nominally 30mm, I know open tubular sizes can be misleading, can you advise?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## Dropmaster

The wind blew my 2011 white F4 over and the top tube scraped a pole on the way down. My heart is broken..

Does Felt sell white touch up paint for this frame? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## tigerleghorn

Try White nail varnish, that may do it. Or just shrug your shoulders and remember it's a tool not a jewel.


----------



## Dropmaster

You need to buy a 110 bcd compact crank to change gears like that. I have the same 2011 Felt F4 bike but have the compact crank with 52/38 gearing. But if I'm going to ride a event with a bunch of hills and rollers I change to 50/36. Takes about an hour to change and make slight deralliuer adjustments. But I have the best of worlds.


----------



## Superdave3T

riccardo123 said:


> Hi Dave, a supplementary question - do the Strada Bianche tyres fit a Z bike? They are nominally 30mm, I know open tubular sizes can be misleading, can you advise?
> 
> Thanks in advance...


Oddly enough those are the tires I raced on this weekend at the Spy Belgian Waffle Ride. They do not fit in a Z-series brake caliper because the caliper brakes from Shimano and Tektro only fit up to a 28mm tire.

-Dave


----------



## riccardo123

That's a shame, but thanks for the reply.


----------



## Superdave3T

riccardo123 said:


> That's a shame, but thanks for the reply.


Among the reasons that disc brakes will proliferate the road market is the added tire options they'll potentially allow that current Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo standard calipers do not.

-SD


----------



## Don4

Hi Superdave --

My lovely wife just bought a 2014 Felt F65X to her go along with her 2010 Felt Z2. In addition to riding some gravel and unpaved trails, she is also planning on riding it on the road, on the occasion of those days where we are riding events like Zoo-de-Mack, or on days like yesterday, where we had an earthquake in Michigan (9 miles from the house!) , where her carbon fiber Z2 might get damaged. (The real risk is events like Zoo-de-Mack, which is a destination ride, and the bikes end up loaded on a trailer to head back to the starting point)

With that said, what range of tire widths will work well with the Felt CxR3 Disc rims on the F65X?

Thanks,

--Don4
Kalamazoo MI

On the left: Where I ride...
On the right: The star marks the epicenter of yesterday's 4.2 magnitude earthquake...


----------



## Superdave3T

Don4 said:


> Hi Superdave --
> 
> My lovely wife just bought a 2014 Felt F65X to her go along with her 2010 Felt Z2. In addition to riding some gravel and unpaved trails, she is also planning on riding it on the road, on the occasion of those days where we are riding events like Zoo-de-Mack, or on days like yesterday, where we had an earthquake in Michigan (9 miles from the house!) , where her carbon fiber Z2 might get damaged. (The real risk is events like Zoo-de-Mack, which is a destination ride, and the bikes end up loaded on a trailer to head back to the starting point)
> 
> With that said, what range of tire widths will work well with the Felt CxR3 Disc rims on the F65X?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> --Don4
> Kalamazoo MI
> 
> On the left: Where I ride...
> On the right: The star marks the epicenter of yesterday's 4.2 magnitude earthquake...
> View attachment 305577


I'd go at least 25mm minimum. No bigger than ~37mm slick or ~35mm knobbys in the dry. 33mm knobs in the mud.

-SD


----------



## Don4

SuperdaveFelt said:


> I'd go at least 25mm minimum. No bigger than ~37mm slick or ~35mm knobbys in the dry. 33mm knobs in the mud.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Superdave!

-- Don4


----------



## steinercat

What is the max tire size that will fit on the V85?

Also what is the estimated weight for a 54cm build?

Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

steinercat said:


> What is the max tire size that will fit on the V85?
> 
> Also what is the estimated weight for a 54cm build?
> 
> Thanks!


The V85 could fit a 35c knobby tire with the stock rims and perhaps in dry conditions a smoother treaded 38-40mm tire. Tire rub and mud accumulation would keep me from running anything larger than a 33mm 'cross tire but I've seen a few V100 (same frame) set up with the Kenda Small Block 8 700c x 35mm tires and I'd consider that the limit for a go-anywhere practical choice.

If you define "fit" as "passes through the frame" you could go bigger.

-SD

EDIT: 10kg


----------



## steinercat

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The V85 could fit a 35c knobby tire with the stock rims and perhaps in dry conditions a smoother treaded 38-40mm tire. Tire rub and mud accumulation would keep me from running anything larger than a 33mm 'cross tire but I've seen a few V100 (same frame) set up with the Kenda Small Block 8 700c x 35mm tires and I'd consider that the limit for a go-anywhere practical choice.
> 
> If you define "fit" as "passes through the frame" you could go bigger.
> 
> -SD
> 
> EDIT: 10kg


@Superdave

I don't think I'll have an issue with tires then...I was only planning to use the 35c Marathon Racers, which aren't knobby at all.

Thanks for info on the weight!


----------



## trispect

I have 2011 Felt DA. Last week I got the 0deg rise flat stem (ordered from Felt-Stuff.com) to replace the original Bayonet3 top crown and adjustable stem. 

Problem is that those original screws which came with the bike (both two set of them) seem to be too long for the flat stem. When I tighten the screws fully, I can still lift the stem off the frame couple of centimeters. 

Are the screws really not fitting the flat stem, and if not and I have to get new screws, what are the specification for those?


----------



## Superdave3T

trispect said:


> I have 2011 Felt DA. Last week I got the 0deg rise flat stem (ordered from Felt-Stuff.com) to replace the original Bayonet3 top crown and adjustable stem.
> 
> Problem is that those original screws which came with the bike (both two set of them) seem to be too long for the flat stem. When I tighten the screws fully, I can still lift the stem off the frame couple of centimeters.
> 
> Are the screws really not fitting the flat stem, and if not and I have to get new screws, what are the specification for those?


You don't need new bolts, just shorten the ones you have 10mm.
-SD


----------



## trispect

SuperdaveFelt said:


> You don't need new bolts, just shorten the ones you have 10mm.
> -SD


Hi Dave!

Well actually I have shorten the screws. More than 10mm and it's still not enough. Yesterday I realized why. 

This is how short the screw is currently: 










This is what the problem is: That the part of the screw which doesn't have threads is thicker than the threaded part, so it doesn't go in.


----------



## Superdave3T

The correct length M6 x 1mm cap head Grade 10.9 or higher shoulderless bolt should be available from a variety of sources. It appears as though your aerobar extension mounting bolts are too long, also.

-SD


----------



## trispect

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The correct length M6 x 1mm cap head Grade 10.9 or higher shoulderless bolt should be available from a variety of sources. It appears as though your aerobar extension mounting bolts are too long, also.
> 
> -SD


Thanks Dave! You wouldn't happen to know what would be correct length for the bolt?


----------



## Superdave3T

I'll check the drawings once I get to the office Monday. A little local bike race has me out of the office for the rest of the week.

-SD

p.s. Go Hincapie!


----------



## YZ 343

Nice work by Hincapie. Great shots of that Felt on Tuesdays stage. I ride those roads a lot and knew he could solo if he survived Quimby road. TV does not do that road justice. Skidded those corners myself. Steepest switchbacks I've ever ridden on pavement.


----------



## TDI Hoo

Dave,
Are you coming to Richmond, Va. in September for the World Cycling Championships? Would love to meet you in person if you are coming. I work at VCU Medical Center, one of the sponsors. Maybe Felt could have a demo truck at the medical center around that time. We have been doing promo stuff in preparation, and we have a 40+ member team that rides year round. I am currently the only Felt bike owner (2012 Z6), looking to upgrade.


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> Dave,
> Are you coming to Richmond, Va. in September for the World Cycling Championships? Would love to meet you in person if you are coming. I work at VCU Medical Center, one of the sponsors. Maybe Felt could have a demo truck at the medical center around that time. We have been doing promo stuff in preparation, and we have a 40+ member team that rides year round. I am currently the only Felt bike owner (2012 Z6), looking to upgrade.


Yes, I'm planning on coming to Richmond a couple days ahead of and stay thru Sunday's race. Felt will have a dozen or so athletes competing and I hope to get in some footage. I'm not involved in Felt's USA Distributors' Demo Truck program but I'd wager that the area sales rep will be around. I'll check in with them and see if there are plans to attend.

1/40, eh? Sounds like we need help.

-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

Thanks, Dave. Hope to see you! I am going to ride in the Conquer the Cobbles ride. Send the sales rep my way. I spoke to our Rams That Ride leader and there is interest in demos in the lobby/Gateway entrance at the Medical Center. Need more Felt on the road in Richmond. Richmond 2015, Sports Backers Unveil ?Conquer the Cobbles?


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> Thanks, Dave. Hope to see you! I am going to ride in the Conquer the Cobbles ride. Send the sales rep my way. I spoke to our Rams That Ride leader and there is interest in demos in the lobby/Gateway entrance at the Medical Center. Need more Felt on the road in Richmond. Richmond 2015, Sports Backers Unveil ?Conquer the Cobbles?


Is there a Felt Dealer in your area that your club or the group uses? I'm not sure who to point in who's direction.
-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Is there a Felt Dealer in your area that your club or the group uses? I'm not sure who to point in who's direction.
> -SD


Endorphin Fitness is the local dealer where I bought the bike. Great shop, great people.
Richmond, VA | Endorphin Fitness


----------



## TeedeF

Went to my LBS in San Antonio today hoping to try out and maybe pickup either an F65X or F5X, was leaning more towards the F5X. Unfortunately they didn't have either in stock, and after they called the warehouse, we found out that neither bikes are in stock in any size due to the new model year coming out in a couple months. Is this really the case? I sent out a few emails to bike shops up towards Austin asking if they had anything in stock, we'll see if I get any bites from those.

Was really hoping to pick one of these up to get into cycling again, major bummer that they're no longer made. Not sure I want to wait until the new models come out and not a whole lot of detail on what is to come for these models in 2016 from the recent reveal in April - the higher end bikes that did have details are certainly out of my price range.

What's a guy to do  Guess I'll have to look at other offerings from different brands.


----------



## Superdave3T

TeedeF said:


> Went to my LBS in San Antonio today hoping to try out and maybe pickup either an F65X or F5X, was leaning more towards the F5X. Unfortunately they didn't have either in stock, and after they called the warehouse, we found out that neither bikes are in stock in any size due to the new model year coming out in a couple months. Is this really the case? I sent out a few emails to bike shops up towards Austin asking if they had anything in stock, we'll see if I get any bites from those.
> 
> Was really hoping to pick one of these up to get into cycling again, major bummer that they're no longer made. Not sure I want to wait until the new models come out and not a whole lot of detail on what is to come for these models in 2016 from the recent reveal in April - the higher end bikes that did have details are certainly out of my price range.
> 
> What's a guy to do  Guess I'll have to look at other offerings from different brands.


I'm sorry Felt is not making things easy on you. Traditionally the selling season for CX bikes is August thru January. After late winter we stop production and move into the next model year. We've got the 2016 'cross bikes in production now and they should be available in July. We've also added a model in your price range with the F55x. But instead of waiting, please let me know what size you're looking for and I'll contact the sales department and see what we can find nationwide with the hope we can transfer the inventory to your local dealer. If there is a shop in Delaware with 2 x F65x left in your size perhaps they'll agree to give a 2015 model up with the promise that we'll ship 'em one of the first 2016s. In any case, please contact me by email so I can loop in my colleagues who can do the heavy lifting in finding your bike.

Thanks
Dave

davekoesel
at
feltbicycles
dot
com


----------



## TeedeF

Thanks Dave! The website says that I'm either a 55 or a 57 for a CX, but I'll swing by my LBS on the way home from work this evening to confirm. I'll send you an email this evening.

Thank you again!


----------



## Superdave3T

TeedeF said:


> Thanks Dave! The website says that I'm either a 55 or a 57 for a CX, but I'll swing by my LBS on the way home from work this evening to confirm. I'll send you an email this evening.
> 
> Thank you again!


Have you tried Jack and Adams in Austin? I understand they've purchased a bunch of F65x and F5x since the launch of those models. Perhaps they still have stock?
-SD
-SD


----------



## Kelvin kimp

Hi Superdave,

i just purchased a 2014 FC frame set and will build it with Ultegra DI2 group. Is there anyplace to find correct cable routing as well as the correct cables for the electronic group? 

Thanks
kevin


----------



## Cabritor

Hi

any problem with this way of mounting the arm rest? I have tried to find images on the www but nobody is mounting the arm rest on that way.

Thank you.


----------



## Superdave3T

Cabritor said:


> Hi
> 
> any problem with this way of mounting the arm rest? I have tried to find images on the www but nobody is mounting the arm rest on that way.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> View attachment 306199


Yes, they can be mounted this way. It typically leaves very little room for your knees to clear the base bar while standing though.
Be careful the first time on the road with this configuration.

-Dave


----------



## Superdave3T

Kelvin kimp said:


> Hi Superdave,
> 
> i just purchased a 2014 FC frame set and will build it with Ultegra DI2 group. Is there anyplace to find correct cable routing as well as the correct cables for the electronic group?
> 
> Thanks
> kevin


Please send me an email and I'll provide the diagram.
Wire lengths will depend on your other equipment choices (stem, bar, 10s vs. 11s, Junction type, battery, etc.)


----------



## Cabritor

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, they can be mounted this way. It typically leaves very little room for your knees to clear the base bar while standing though.
> Be careful the first time on the road with this configuration.
> 
> -Dave


Thank you SuperDave. I've noticed the little room for knees while standing, but it isn't a big problem; for me (short legs for my height) going forward with the arm rests is a must, I've tried going rear with the saddle but I haven't felt ok.

Tomorrow I'll test the new setup, maybe a longer stem could be necessary but I prefer to check this setup first.

Thank you again.


----------



## Adam_B

I'm currently riding a 2012 F4 with some yishun carbon clinchers (24mm wide) and am having rear clearance issues when using 25mm tires. When I put some outta the seat power to the pedals, the rear tire rubs the left chainstay about an inch from the BB. Its at the point where the paint has rubbed off to the carbon and also tearing up left sidewall of my tires. On to the question. 

With the popularity of larger tires on wider rims (25mm, 27mm, 28mm on 24-25mm wide rims), are the newer Felt framesets (specifically the 2015 F1) built to accommodate these larger tires? I know the geometry of the 2012 F4 is identical to the 2015 F1 but wondering about the rear clearance. 

Thanks!


----------



## dnuzzomueller

I am having some trouble finding a few replacement parts for the 2015 AR.

It seems like I cannot find any FSA No44 headsets in stock anywhere. Is there some alternative? I need to replace the headset bearings.

What is the best way to replace the seatpost binder bolts? I think they are M6 bolts. The metal they are made out of is so soft that the head is deforming under regular tightening loads. Can I order new ones from felt or is there some way that I can get another set?

My Felt dealer has had no luck calling Felt directly for replacements, I need an alternative.


----------



## bleckb

I had the same problem on my 2014 F2, with Shimano RS61 wheels. I put on 25mm Michelin Pro 4s and got that same rub, where the white on the tire smeared. However, today, I just put on a pair of Mavic Kysrium Elite's with their 25 mm tires and plenty of clearance. Similarly, my son has an F4 SL, not sure of the year, with Mavic Open Pros and there is no way we could get the 25s to work. I think, depending upon the rims, there is a tendency for some tires to bulge/balloon and not work so well. When that happened, we went back to 23s and all was well.


----------



## ejprez

Does anyone have a F1 PR? If so can you use standard campagnolo brakes, Super record, or do I have to use shimano or TRP long reach?


----------



## Superdave3T

ejprez said:


> Does anyone have a F1 PR? If so can you use standard campagnolo brakes, Super record, or do I have to use shimano or TRP long reach?


Yes, I have one.
You'll need a long reach brake caliper OR a custom drop bolt and/or brake pads to use standard reach calipers.
There are more options than just Shimano and TRP but those are the best functioning brakes I've tried.

-SD


----------



## Harley-Dale

Dave, looks like I can use a 25mm rim width HED disk on the rear of my 2013 B12. Do you agree, or disagree?

Thank you, as always your support here is the best....and why I have 2 Felts in the stable.

Dennis


----------



## Superdave3T

Harley-Dale said:


> Dave, looks like I can use a 25mm rim width HED disk on the rear of my 2013 B12. Do you agree, or disagree?
> 
> Thank you, as always your support here is the best....and why I have 2 Felts in the stable.
> 
> Dennis


Dennis,
Thanks for being a Felt customer! Yes, the 25mm/HED combo will fit but you'll need to reposition the set screws in the dropout and the brake pads in the caliper so the rear wheel is shifted back in the frame for adequate clearance. Once you have it set up for your race wheels, you can leave it in the same position with the training set up even with the stock narrower rim and tire. It's a bit less aero slid back with the larger tire gap but for training, who cares?
-Dave


----------



## Harley-Dale

Thank you, Dave. I run Zipp 60 clinchers front and rear now, so I can have my mechanic set it up same for easy swap of the rear. Yes, not concerned about perfection on the aero...if I (personally) lost 10 lbs that would help much more than wheel position. lol

Thank you once again!

Dennis


----------



## polkija

My 2015 F5X headset has a 2mm gap between the top dust cover and frame. I can actually read the markings on the side of the cartridge bearing through it. It attracts dirt and needs to be frequently dismantled and cleaned. The shop where I bought the bike tells me that this is just the way felt bikes are. It looks strange and feels like a low quality component with its plastic compression ring and lack of insulation on a otherwise nice bike. Can it be fixed somehow or do I need a new headset or properly manufactured bike?


----------



## ejprez

Both my F5x and new F1 have that issue and use the same headset. I happen to have 2 cane creek is-8i covers that I swapped out and put 2 of the very thin shims underneath on top of the plastic compression ring. Solved it for me. Though before I did that on the f5x I ran it stock for cross but didn't have any headset issues.


----------



## Superdave3T

polkija said:


> My 2015 F5X headset has a 2mm gap between the top dust cover and frame. I can actually read the markings on the side of the cartridge bearing through it. It attracts dirt and needs to be frequently dismantled and cleaned. The shop where I bought the bike tells me that this is just the way felt bikes are. It looks strange and feels like a low quality component with its plastic compression ring and lack of insulation on a otherwise nice bike. Can it be fixed somehow or do I need a new headset or properly manufactured bike?


The gap sounds consistent with the headset design. There should be a thin aluminum cover and a taller polycarbonate cone that caps the rest of the headset. Try removing the thin aluminum cover if you want the extra stack.

The plastic compression ring will save your steerer tube from breaking if the headset were to ever come loose and be ridden any period of time that way. We conducted a voluntary fork recall specifically because of fatigue here. The nylon reinforced compression ring is much safer for aluminum and carbon steerers. I'm not sure how this gap attracts dirt though and if the gap were 0.6mm would it prevent dirt? There are headset covers with rubber skirts on them but they tend to drag and trap moisture against the bearing.

As the above poster mentioned just about any headset's cosmetic cap can be used in place of the production item.

A new FSA headset will have the same clearance provided with the top cap. The upper bearing uses the Campy 42mm 45/45deg taper so there are dozens of options if you'd like to find a headset that is more cosmetically pleasing for you.

-SD


----------



## skinewmexico

polkija said:


> My 2015 F5X headset has a 2mm gap between the top dust cover and frame. I can actually read the markings on the side of the cartridge bearing through it. It attracts dirt and needs to be frequently dismantled and cleaned. The shop where I bought the bike tells me that this is just the way felt bikes are. It looks strange and feels like a low quality component with its plastic compression ring and lack of insulation on a otherwise nice bike. Can it be fixed somehow or do I need a new headset or properly manufactured bike?


Picture?


----------



## arctic biker

Hello Dave, I still have F85 Bike, nice one to ride but there is minor problem with original wheels. What size tool is needed to get freewheel out???? Feltlabelled hubs and Mavic CXP22 rims. 2011 model year ,I guess.

Problem solved, 12mm Hex!


----------



## rollingstock

Hello Guys, Superdave!

Recently I purchased my first Felt bike: a 2011 AR4. Its' amazing! 

So I purchased a Jagwire Road Elite Link Shift Kit to replace the cabling, but I'm confused...

What's the right metod to install these shifting cable set? (especially at the downtube)


----------



## Ovid77

Hi I am looking for a felt dealer with online shop, i am heading to the us and thought i place an order via online


----------



## Jlightle

Hey SuperDave,

So my Back wheel on my Amazing 2012 Breed is falling apart. (Stripped hub, broken nipples, warped lockring ext.)
Is there a way to buy a replacement wheel for the breed?
Or
What is a Hub that is comparable? 

Thanks for your help.

Josiah
P.S. Is there any way of mounting a Sram CX1 on a 2012 Felt breed? It is by far my favorite bike I have owned, and just want to ride it more.


----------



## TDI Hoo

Hey Dave,

My 2012 Z6 has the front derailleur cable running through the frame inside a 6 or 7 inch piece of thin plastic tubing. The tubing is torn on the underside, and there is an area in the middle of it where there is some resistance. I took it out. I ordered some generic inside lining for cable housing, but it doesn't fit inside the hole in the carbon fiber frame. I then put back the old plastic liner tube for now. The resistance make it tough to "trim" the front derailleur. 

1. Is the plastic tubing necessary, or can I run a new cable in the frame without it? 2. If it is required, where do I get some of that cable? 

See the attached picture. Many thanks.


----------



## rochrunner

I hope Dave is still monitoring this thread...

Dave, I was late to discover the Z4 Disc as my next likely bike, but will have to wait for the 2016 models to be stocked in a month or two. I've seen some details on the changes -- such as Fulcrum wheels instead of Mavic -- but my real fear is that the 2015 paint scheme that I like really well will be changed to something I don't like as well.

But that's not my question. What I would like to know is if it will be possible to use a Rival 1 rear derailleur and cassette with the existing Rival 22 shifters (and leaving the Rival 22 crank alone of course). My aim is to get a better gear ratio for the hills by using an 11-36 cassette instead of the stock 11-32 (not getting any younger, hills not getting any lower).


----------



## Superdave3T

rochrunner said:


> I hope Dave is still monitoring this thread...
> 
> Dave, I was late to discover the Z4 Disc as my next likely bike, but will have to wait for the 2016 models to be stocked in a month or two. I've seen some details on the changes -- such as Fulcrum wheels instead of Mavic -- but my real fear is that the 2015 paint scheme that I like really well will be changed to something I don't like as well.
> 
> But that's not my question. What I would like to know is if it will be possible to use a Rival 1 rear derailleur and cassette with the existing Rival 22 shifters (and leaving the Rival 22 crank alone of course). My aim is to get a better gear ratio for the hills by using an 11-36 cassette instead of the stock 11-32 (not getting any younger, hills not getting any lower).


With the long cage derailleur this is possible.
-Dave


----------



## ALScott

Dave - should have posted this question here first. I hope to pick up my new Z4 disc tomorrow. Question is, do you know if there is enough clearance for 28c Continental Grand Prix 4000S II's?


----------



## eddiecut

SuperDave... Question. If I had my frame custom painted, would that void any warranty?


----------



## Superdave3T

eddiecut said:


> SuperDave... Question. If I had my frame custom painted, would that void any warranty?


Yes, it would.

-Dave


----------



## SundayNiagara

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, it would.
> 
> -Dave


Ok, could someone buy a primer-only frame?


----------



## eddiecut

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Yes, it would.
> 
> -Dave


what if the the graphics were just painted?


----------



## Superdave3T

eddiecut said:


> what if the the graphics were just painted?


Solvent based paint or baked on finishes included.
-SD


----------



## Superdave3T

SundayNiagara said:


> Ok, could someone buy a primer-only frame?


Only the Canvas Cruiser is sold in primer without branding or finish.
-SD


----------



## pedal-stomper

Hey guys, new to the forum here.

looking to upgrade my 2012 FC frames with 105 groups to ultra did
I currently have shifters and derailleurs, I know which junction boxes I need. I had a few questions regarding the other parts

Question 1:
- is it possible to run internal (seatpost) battery in this frame? Reason I ask is because I noticed mounting bolts under the non-drive side chain stay. Does this mean I have to use an external battery?

Question 2:
- Cable lengths, I have a rough idea of what cable lengths I would need for my setup and frame size (51CM) from looking through this thread.

- Shifters - 350mm x 2
- FD - 350mm x 1
- RD - 550mm x 1
- Battery - 300mm (external) and 800+mm internal (allowing seatpost to be removed without unplugging
- downtube - ?? unsure because some guidelines say 700mm for small frame. however, I measured with string and i'd roughly need 900-1000mm worth of wire.

If I could get some further information or confirmation that'd be amazing! =)

Cheers,
Marco


----------



## Rainer

When will the Felt website be updated to all the 2016 bikes? The US preview for the 2016 lineup has been stuck on the same set of three bikes for the past few months.


----------



## STRANA

It's better that way. I keep checking but no new temptations!


----------



## Piranha

Will the 2013 Z5 hubs (10 speed) accept 11 speed cogs ? 

I'm wanting to upgrade to 
Shimano's 11-speed Ultegra 6800 group

If I have to change the hub( rear wheel) 
Will the Tiagra shifters and derailleur still work with the 11 speed ? 

I'm want to replace components as I have the money .. 

Thanks in advance !!


----------



## EoinO

Hi SuperDave,

First time poster, long time follower! 

I built up a 2015 Felt AR1 last week - using the di2 7970 components from my "old" 2011 Felt AR1. The 2015 bike is running superbly. Regarding the old 2011 AR1 frame, my intention is to put spare Ultegra 6700 components on it, and set it up for my wife.

I read another forum where you said that running mechanical cables in the 2011 "di2 optimised" AR1 frame would be no problem. I am trying to do that at the moment, but need some advice. Given the lack of gear cable stops etc. in the AR1 frame, I presume that I would need to run gear cable housing internally for the entire length of the frame. Is this correct? If so, I need to source gear cable housing that runs from each derailleur to each lever; therefore up to ~170cm long housing for a 51cm frame (RD to lever).

Does this seem reasonable?

Thanks for any advice you offer. I just want to double-check before I get wrenching in earnest. 

I hope that you can remember the 2011 AR1 frame setup...

Thanks Dave,

Eoin


----------



## wpcouch

Hi Eoin,

Yes, in the Di2 optimized AR1 frame the best method to run a mechanical drivetrain is via full length housing. I would suspect 170cm is a reasonable length. You should be able to find housing in bulk at your local IBD

Thanks!


----------



## EoinO

wpcouch said:


> Hi Eoin,
> 
> Yes, in the Di2 optimized AR1 frame the best method to run a mechanical drivetrain is via full length housing. I would suspect 170cm is a reasonable length. You should be able to find housing in bulk at your local IBD
> 
> Thanks!


Amazing. Thank you Dave.


----------



## wpcouch

The stock freehub body will not accept an 11sp cassette. Replacment freehubs (you do not have to replace the entire hub) are available through Felt via your Felt dealer.


----------



## wpcouch

Rainer said:


> When will the Felt website be updated to all the 2016 bikes? The US preview for the 2016 lineup has been stuck on the same set of three bikes for the past few months.


Any day!! 

The plan is to release it in conjunction with Eurobike, but we may be too antsy to wait that long... Keep an eye on Felt Bicycles!


----------



## pedal-stomper

just wanted to see if a 2012 FC frame is capable of running internal di2 battery, I noticed an external battery mount on non-drive side chain stay. is it still possible to run internal; battery?

Thanks in advance!
Marco


----------



## wpcouch

pedal-stomper said:


> just wanted to see if a 2012 FC frame is capable of running internal di2 battery, I noticed an external battery mount on non-drive side chain stay. is it still possible to run internal; battery?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> Marco


Hi Marco,

Yes, the mounts on the nds chainstay are designed for Shimano's original Di2 battery. However, You should have no problem using the newer SM-BRT2 battery, which is designed to fit nicely inside your frame we have used internally on some of our Z-series bikes. Several aftermarket companies make nice brackets to securely mount the battery inside your seatpost. 

thanks,


----------



## tranzformer

No need to mess with fancy brackets for the internal Di2 battery. Just wrap it in some foam or bubble wrap. If your Di2 wire isn't long enough for keeping it in the seatpost, you could do the same bubble wrap/foam wrap and out it in the seat tube. Just put a zip tie around the battery so you can fish it out if need be.


----------



## pedal-stomper

Thanks for the tips guys!

Super excited to get my parts in now and start the build! =)
Should be a good upgrade from my 105s! haha


----------



## Big Teggie

Hi SuperDave,

Will there be a 2016 Z3 non-disc?


----------



## SundayNiagara

Big Teggie said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> Will there be a 2016 Z3 non-disc?


The Z5 & Z7 are rim brake. Z3 is disc. The website is up-to-date.

The Z5 will have a threaded BB.


----------



## Superdave3T

Big Teggie said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> Will there be a 2016 Z3 non-disc?


Yes:
https://www.wigglestatic.com/produc...-Z3-2016-Road-Bikes-Carbon-Blue-806368209.jpg
https://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/5360108763/Felt-Z3-2016-Road-Bikes-Carbon-Blue-806368209.jpghttps://


----------



## Big Teggie

Just to be clear, I was referring to USA models. I only saw the Z3 Disc on the USA website, good to know the non-disc will also be available.


----------



## wpcouch

Currently we're only bringing the Z3 Disc into the US market. 

However, with our new Living Line model concept, if we see enough demand for a non-disc version of the Z3 in the US, we could easily reconsider.


----------



## Superdave3T

Big Teggie said:


> Just to be clear, I was referring to USA models. I only saw the Z3 Disc on the USA website, good to know the non-disc will also be available.


As Wil said, the USA carries just the Z3 disc. Are you opposed to disc brakes? If so, why?


----------



## djg714

*Headset bearings F65x*

Thanks


----------



## Big Teggie

SuperdaveFelt said:


> As Wil said, the USA carries just the Z3 disc. Are you opposed to disc brakes? If so, why?


I am not opposed to disc brakes. I don't have much experience with them on a road bike and have been happy with rim brakes. I will be doing some research into them now.


----------



## Risk3233

I have a 2013 F5 withe the FSA Omega crankset and original BB30 bearings.

I'd like to get the Praxis bottom bracket and use their cranks as well.

My homework has shown that the F1 and F2 could not use the Praxis system.

Can the F5 use the Praxis system? Does it have the aluminum bb shell?

Aloha.


----------



## TDI Hoo

OK, Super Dave,

UCI Worlds come to Richmond in a week. Any details on Felt demo trucks with bikes and how I can run into you sometime during the races? I work at VCU Medical Center. The course and finish line are a block away. Excited to see the cyclists, races, and FELT! Safe travels. We are ready for this.


----------



## Woody2375

Hi Dave,

i have 2013 ar4 that may be having the frame replaced under warranty. Do you guys keep older frames around for this? What happens if you don't have it?


----------



## wpcouch

Risk3233 said:


> I have a 2013 F5 withe the FSA Omega crankset and original BB30 bearings.
> 
> I'd like to get the Praxis bottom bracket and use their cranks as well.
> 
> My homework has shown that the F1 and F2 could not use the Praxis system.
> 
> Can the F5 use the Praxis system? Does it have the aluminum bb shell?
> 
> Aloha.


Yes, the F5 uses an aluminum BB shell and will accept the Praxis BB


----------



## wpcouch

TDI Hoo said:


> OK, Super Dave,
> 
> UCI Worlds come to Richmond in a week. Any details on Felt demo trucks with bikes and how I can run into you sometime during the races? I work at VCU Medical Center. The course and finish line are a block away. Excited to see the cyclists, races, and FELT! Safe travels. We are ready for this.


Unfortunately we do not have any plans to have a demo truck or significant presence at UCI Worlds. 

That may change, though, so stay tuned!


----------



## TDI Hoo

wpcouch said:


> Unfortunately we do not have any plans to have a demo truck or significant presence at UCI Worlds.
> 
> That may change, though, so stay tuned!


I will stay tuned! Should be a great set of races. Come to Richmond!


----------



## loxx0050

SD or wpcouch,

I am planning on upgrading my 2012 B12 drivetrain to 11s this winter with DA 9000 derailleurs and Microshift TT shifters. I was thinking of buying new cables/housing for the shift system at the minimum. What do you guys think of the Yokozuna Reaction system, the shimano sp41 or the Jagwire road elite sealed? I really liked the Jagwire elite link system but that seems like it won't be enough housing for internal routing. 

The cables and a good housing cutter tool are the last items I need to buy to start my upgrade. 

Also, besides a minor aero hit possibly, is there any detriment to flipping the rear brake calipers so the cable attachment sits on the non drive side of the bike? It would just make adjusting it much easier it seems. 

TIA


----------



## txnrider

I just took delivery of a 2016 Felt F3x which came equipped with DT Swiss R24 Classic (not Spline) wheels. Unfortunately, I can't find much info regarding this particular wheelset. I assumed it was tubeless and promptly removed the tube, inspected the rim tape, added 2 oz of sealant, added tubeless stem, then pumped away. It was an easy setup with just a floor pump but I am a bit concerned about the area where the rim is joined together. This is the only area where sealant actually came out. It sealed it just fine and the pressure is still good the next day. I guess I just need to know whether it is okay to run this wheelset tubeless and if anyone has experienced this sort of thing where the rim is joined together. Thanks.


----------



## wpcouch

loxx0050 said:


> SD or wpcouch,
> 
> I am planning on upgrading my 2012 B12 drivetrain to 11s this winter with DA 9000 derailleurs and Microshift TT shifters. I was thinking of buying new cables/housing for the shift system at the minimum. What do you guys think of the Yokozuna Reaction system, the shimano sp41 or the Jagwire road elite sealed? I really liked the Jagwire elite link system but that seems like it won't be enough housing for internal routing.
> 
> The cables and a good housing cutter tool are the last items I need to buy to start my upgrade.
> 
> Also, besides a minor aero hit possibly, is there any detriment to flipping the rear brake calipers so the cable attachment sits on the non drive side of the bike? It would just make adjusting it much easier it seems.
> 
> TIA


Those are all high quality cable/housing options. You can't really go wrong with any of them. Best performance will come from keeping them clean and properly lubricated. 

The rear caliper can only mount in one direction.


----------



## wpcouch

txnrider said:


> I just took delivery of a 2016 Felt F3x which came equipped with DT Swiss R24 Classic (not Spline) wheels. Unfortunately, I can't find much info regarding this particular wheelset. I assumed it was tubeless and promptly removed the tube, inspected the rim tape, added 2 oz of sealant, added tubeless stem, then pumped away. It was an easy setup with just a floor pump but I am a bit concerned about the area where the rim is joined together. This is the only area where sealant actually came out. It sealed it just fine and the pressure is still good the next day. I guess I just need to know whether it is okay to run this wheelset tubeless and if anyone has experienced this sort of thing where the rim is joined together. Thanks.


Congrats on the new ride! Make sure you post some photos of the finished product

Yes, the DT Swiss R24 Classic is a tubeless compatible rim. It's not uncommon to see minor leaks, especially around seams, when you first install the sealant. You should be good to go!


----------



## loxx0050

wpcouch said:


> Those are all high quality cable/housing options. You can't really go wrong with any of them. Best performance will come from keeping them clean and properly lubricated.
> 
> The rear caliper can only mount in one direction.


Thanks for the response. One last question, how much housing do I need for the shifters? 

The Yokohuna kit is 1 length (3000mm) of shift housing which seems like it might be cutting it close since I still am routing from bar ends, through the aero bars and then through the frame. 

The Shimano kits seems suspect too (1x1800mm and 1x800mm...from what I can find for polymer coated kits). 

The Jagwire kit seems plenty enough though.


----------



## wpcouch

Housing length needed will vary depending on your frame size, the length/rise of your stem, and the position of your aerobars. Use a flexible tape measure to get an accurate measurement of what you need on your bike.


----------



## jpaschal01

Check out SuperDave:
https://www.facebook.com/trishopdfw/videos/1032012773485932/


----------



## TDI Hoo

Even if Felt and SuperDave Koesel don't come to Richmond for 2015 UCI Road Words, I will be riding my 2012 Felt Z6 and looking for other Felt aficionados. Opening Ceremonies tomorrow night. Watch on TV if you can't visit.


----------



## Superdave3T

*Richmond*

I'm afraid I've had to cancel plans to attend Road Worlds. I'm headed to Taiwan to move some new projects along instead. Hoping for a great ride from K-strong in the TT.

Enjoy the show.

-SD


----------



## gruesome

SuperDave,

I've got a 2014 F75, and I'm looking to upgrade wheels.. What's the widest wheel that bike can run? I was wanting to go 25mm to match my 25mm tire.. Thoughts?


----------



## Superdave3T

gruesome said:


> SuperDave,
> 
> I've got a 2014 F75, and I'm looking to upgrade wheels.. What's the widest wheel that bike can run? I was wanting to go 25mm to match my 25mm tire.. Thoughts?


17mm inner width on a 25mm tire. 25mm outer width is no problem with the stock calipers.
You can go as wide as 27mm with some aftermarket calipers or thin brake pad inserts.
-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

Missed you guys in Richmond. Great racing and great results for Felt, too. Medical team appreciated the technical insights from Felt. Quck vid from Elite Men's Individual time trial. 
[video]https://vid215.photobucket.com/albums/cc254/jwbekens/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/ZOE_0001_zpsyiq0wqeo.mp4[/video]


----------



## cobra_kai

Does Felt have an official installation procedure for bearing installation in a BB30 bottom bracket? The bike specific manuals seem to only deal with cable routing and the general owner's manual is all very basic usage type information. There is so much debate and confusion online over how to install BB30, even among manufacturers. For example, Cannondale recommends using loctite 609 in the bearing installation, while others such as Specialized and FSA advocate grease. I was hoping Felt would provide a recommended procedure for their bikes.


----------



## Superdave3T

cobra_kai said:


> Does Felt have an official installation procedure for bearing installation in a BB30 bottom bracket? The bike specific manuals seem to only deal with cable routing and the general owner's manual is all very basic usage type information. There is so much debate and confusion online over how to install BB30, even among manufacturers. For example, Cannondale recommends using loctite 609 in the bearing installation, while others such as Specialized and FSA advocate grease. I was hoping Felt would provide a recommended procedure for their bikes.


I recommend you follow the guidelines from the crank and BB maker.

-SD


----------



## Rashadabd

Hey SD (or anyone),

What's the real difference between the carbon used in the AR1 and the AR5? When you are out on the road and say you have the same components (Ultegra di2 or Dura Ace 9000 for argument's sake) and the same set of nice carbon wheels like a set of Reynolds Assault SLG or Zipp 303 Firecrest, would the average Joe even feel the difference in sprints or on climbs, etc? I keep bouncing between the AR1 frameset and AR5 complete bike on which is the better deal if I am just going to upgrade a bunch of stuff anyway.


----------



## GOTA

Rashadabd said:


> Hey SD (or anyone),
> 
> What's the real difference between the carbon used in the AR1 and the AR5? When you are out on the road and say you have the same components (Ultegra di2 or Dura Ace 9000 for argument's sake) and the same set of nice carbon wheels like a set of Reynolds Assault SLG or Zipp 303 Firecrest, would the average Joe even feel the difference in sprints or on climbs, etc? I keep bouncing between the AR1 frameset and AR5 complete bike on which is the better deal if I am just going to upgrade a bunch of stuff anyway.


Last year there was an article by Leonard Zinn in Velo News about Textreme. That's the carbon fiber that Felt uses on it's high end bikes including the AR1. It sounded amazing. Zinn has always been completely independent and honest. I think he was genuinely impressed. 

I have no idea how this affects the ride. Most likely it's just a way to make the frame a lot lighter and stiffer. Try to find that article though. It might help you find some answers.


----------



## Rashadabd

GOTA said:


> Last year there was an article by Leonard Zinn in Velo News about Textreme. That's the carbon fiber that Felt uses on it's high end bikes including the AR1. It sounded amazing. Zinn has always been completely independent and honest. I think he was genuinely impressed.
> 
> I have no idea how this affects the ride. Most likely it's just a way to make the frame a lot lighter and stiffer. Try to find that article though. It might help you find some answers.


Thanks, that's my gut feeling as well. I think I just needed to hear someone else confirm that my thoughts are heading in the right direction. I may have even read that article, but I will double check to make sure. The thing that keeps messing with my head is that the AR1 frameset and AR5 complete bike are virtually the same price and I could see the benefit of getting the AR5 and then selling off the Shimano 105 and anything else I could to help subsidize the new components and wheels I plan to add. The more I think about it though, the AR1 frameset is probably the way to go. It's what I am going to be the most excited about in the end anyway. I like hearing others' perspectives as though.


----------



## skinewmexico

Just figure out how much weight you save by going to the AR1, and decide if that will make a measurable difference in your performance. I have a feeling that if you can tell a difference in those frames, you should probably be racing in Europe. Or like a buddy always tell me, I can save that much weight by skipping a few beers every week.


----------



## Rashadabd

skinewmexico said:


> Just figure out how much weight you save by going to the AF1, and decide if that will make a measurable difference in your performance. I have a feeling that if you can tell a difference in those frames, you should probably be racing in Europe. Or like a buddy always tell me, I can save that much weight by skipping a few beers every week.


Yeah, that was the point I was kind of making with the original question. My guess is that we are talking about 100-150 grams or roughly 1/4 lb. Those small amounts do add up though. You get 1/4 lb heavier wheels, a 1/4 lb heavier handlebars, saddle, etc. and before you know it, you have a 19lb bike instead of a 16lb bike and you can feel that. I think I am just going to go with the AR1.


----------



## cobra_kai

I went through the same thought process and ended up getting the AR1 frameset. Yes it would have been less expensive to get the AR5, I estimated that selling the 105 group, saddle, handlebars, stem, and wheels would probably net around 5 or 6 hundred but I would have had to go through the hassle of selling them on ebay or craigslist. With the AR1 I get to pick out every component plus I'll never wonder about the better carbon layup. For a price increase of $500 amortized over the long time I'll hopefully have the bike I don't think it's too fiscally irresponsible


----------



## Rashadabd

cobra_kai said:


> I went through the same thought process and ended up getting the AR1 frameset. Yes it would have been less expensive to get the AR5, I estimated that selling the 105 group, saddle, handlebars, stem, and wheels would probably net around 5 or 6 hundred but I would have had to go through the hassle of selling them on ebay or craigslist. With the AR1 I get to pick out every component plus I'll never wonder about the better carbon layup. For a price increase of $500 amortized over the long time I'll hopefully have the bike I don't think it's too fiscally irresponsible


Bingo! That's the exact conclusion I just came to a few minutes ago.


----------



## cobra_kai

Rashadabd said:


> Bingo! That's the exact conclusion I just came to a few minutes ago.


:thumbsup: great minds and all that...

If everything is on schedule I should be getting my frame in a couple more weeks.


----------



## Rashadabd

cobra_kai said:


> :thumbsup: great minds and all that...
> 
> If everything is on schedule I should be getting my frame in a couple more weeks.


Congrats!


----------



## Rashadabd

GOTA said:


> Last year there was an article by Leonard Zinn in Velo News about Textreme. That's the carbon fiber that Felt uses on it's high end bikes including the AR1. It sounded amazing. Zinn has always been completely independent and honest. I think he was genuinely impressed.
> 
> I have no idea how this affects the ride. Most likely it's just a way to make the frame a lot lighter and stiffer. Try to find that article though. It might help you find some answers.


Here's the Zinn article if anyone wants to read it:

Six reasons why Felt is making some of the world’s best bikes - VeloNews.com


----------



## GOTA

Rashadabd said:


> Here's the Zinn article if anyone wants to read it:
> 
> Six reasons why Felt is making some of the world’s best bikes - VeloNews.com


That's the one. If you are looking for performance you Felt bikes must be on your list. Zinn details why. Thanks for posting that link. It's good information for anyone wondering what differentiates Felt from the others.


----------



## wpcouch

Rashadabd said:


> Hey SD (or anyone),
> 
> What's the real difference between the carbon used in the AR1 and the AR5? When you are out on the road and say you have the same components (Ultegra di2 or Dura Ace 9000 for argument's sake) and the same set of nice carbon wheels like a set of Reynolds Assault SLG or Zipp 303 Firecrest, would the average Joe even feel the difference in sprints or on climbs, etc? I keep bouncing between the AR1 frameset and AR5 complete bike on which is the better deal if I am just going to upgrade a bunch of stuff anyway.


We have a nice video, featuring SD, that explains the differences between the levels of carbon we use.


----------



## jenna7788

I am having a heck of a time tracking down a 2016 F65x in Canada (Toronto)! Any idea of how long it will be until the next shipment arrives at the Montreal warehouse? Next week or more like next year?

Having called more than a dozen bike shops across the country, none of them have been able to give me a straight answer and two in Toronto have had to refund my deposits because they thought they were getting these, but have not received them. I understand a small number of these models reached the warehouse in Montreal but all went out West.

Just hoping for an idea of when I might be able to purchase this bike in Toronto! Thanks


----------



## wpcouch

Hi Jenna, 

Really sorry to hear you're having a hard time finding the F65X in Canada! That is one ofour most popular models, so they sell through very quickly. I don't have visibility to Canada's arrival schedule, so I will have to contact them to see when the next ETA is. What size are you looking for?

Thanks,


----------



## jenna7788

Thanks for your reply! I am looking for a 50cm.

Any info would be much appreciated 



wpcouch said:


> Hi Jenna,
> 
> Really sorry to hear you're having a hard time finding the F65X in Canada! That is one ofour most popular models, so they sell through very quickly. I don't have visibility to Canada's arrival schedule, so I will have to contact them to see when the next ETA is. What size are you looking for?
> 
> Thanks,


----------



## skinewmexico

Is the CxR3 rim tubeless ready?


----------



## ejprez

Will a cane creek is52 45x45 bearing work in the lower head tube of a felt f1.? It's a 2015 and already have an extra top bearing. The lower one comes apart by hand which surprised me and the top disintegrated. I didn't have the bike that long, the ones in my F5x feel like they will do they same. Is this normal? My last couple bikes that used Tapered didn't have the TH industries bearing and didn't feel like the races would come apart. 

The current stock one says 36x45 but cane creek says theirs will work according to their fit finder on their site


----------



## cobra_kai

So I just mounted a pair of nominally 25mm GP4000 SII on 2015 Pacenti Sl23s that I will be using with the AR1 frameset and they measure out to about 28.2mm on my calipers. Does anyone know if the AR1 frameset has clearance for that or will I need to step down to 23mm tires?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## dooby

Hi SuperDave,

Was really excited about the V series, and was looking at the V85/V55. Is there any hint with regards to when a carbon version of those bikes will be available. I've read somewhere that carbon versions are likely to be produced, but wasn't able to find more information about that. Wondering if I should wait for the carbon version, or go with something else. Appreciate any insight that you may have! Thanks.


----------



## cooleshal

Hi Dave

I am looking to source the Ti Bolts for my 2015 AR FRD seat clamp as the hex head on one has stripped and my seatpost is slipping rendering my bike unuseable. I have tried to source these from my local bike shop who have reported that Saddleback (UK) have none in stock as there was a run on them and they don't have a timeframe for new bolts. For information - I only every tighten these bolts to max 5nm using a Park Tool Torque wrench - I wonder if the Ti bolts can handle regular changing of seatpost direction for TTs. Anyway, can could you advise where I can pick up a replacement set of both Ti bolts and a set of Cr-Mo bolts as well (for backup). 

Many thanks

Paul


----------



## Superdave3T

dooby said:


> Hi SuperDave,
> 
> Was really excited about the V series, and was looking at the V85/V55. Is there any hint with regards to when a carbon version of those bikes will be available. I've read somewhere that carbon versions are likely to be produced, but wasn't able to find more information about that. Wondering if I should wait for the carbon version, or go with something else. Appreciate any insight that you may have! Thanks.


It's true that Felt is always innovating and developing new categories. I would be lying if I said you'd never see a V-carbon frame from us. Still, we do not carbon copy anything. We do our own development from ID, to 3D to carbon layup optimization so these projects can take a bit more time and seldom fall in a perfectly annual cycle. 

-SD


----------



## bkw

*Spesh All Condition Armadillo 28c on AR*

Hey SD, or anyone else for that matter, need your opinion and advice.

I just installed Specialized's All Condition Armadillo 700x28c tire on my 2014 AR5 and the tire clearance to the back of the seatpost is very narrow - so small, that I can hear it rub. I'm pretty sure it's the seam of the tire since it's brand new thats rubbing, but is the clearance too narrow for the frame? 

I purchased the tire for winter riding through muck and my fear is that as debris gets caught between the tire and the seatpost, it'll eventually wear the carbon. 

Is this a big deal or something I don't need to worry about?

Insta video of what's going on >> https://instagram.com/p/9b6XC2olqF/

Thanks!


----------



## krankenstein

SuperDave,

Which of these headset is the right replacement for my 2015 F1?
FSA Orbit C-40/48-CF-ACB Integrated - FSA
FSA Orbit C-40-CF-ACB Integrated - FSA


----------



## Superdave3T

bkw said:


> Hey SD, or anyone else for that matter, need your opinion and advice.
> 
> I just installed Specialized's All Condition Armadillo 700x28c tire on my 2014 AR5 and the tire clearance to the back of the seatpost is very narrow - so small, that I can hear it rub. I'm pretty sure it's the seam of the tire since it's brand new thats rubbing, but is the clearance too narrow for the frame?
> 
> I purchased the tire for winter riding through muck and my fear is that as debris gets caught between the tire and the seatpost, it'll eventually wear the carbon.
> 
> Is this a big deal or something I don't need to worry about?
> 
> Insta video of what's going on >> https://instagram.com/p/9b6XC2olqF/
> 
> Thanks!



that's a no-go.
The tire may stretch as well before treadwear gives you more clearance. Try to keep ~4mm between tire and frame.
A Conti 28mm tire or Vittoria 27mm or Challenge 27mm tire may fit. There's a guy on WW with a 28mm Schwalbe One on his.

It'll depend on rim width.

-SD


----------



## Saundo

*Headset Parts*



SuperdaveFelt said:


> Where did you buy your AR1 frameset?
> Looks like you need to swap your upper headset bearing and compression ring, too. Very early shipments used 41,0mm O.D. 36/45 bearings (IS). The correct size is 41.8mm O.D. 45/45 (Campy) and they were replaced at the warehouse level prior to shipment.
> -SD













Hey Superdave, I just stubbled on this thread because I had a question about the no crown race on my new AR1 frameset. Answered! But I have the same parts in my headset bag (except the green piece) that are shown in this pic. Do I need different stuff too? Edited to show the original pic
Thanks
Marc


----------



## Superdave3T

Saundo said:


> Hey Superdave, I just stubbled on this thread because I had a question about the no crown race on my new AR1 frameset. Answered! But I have the same parts in my headset bag (except the green piece) that are shown in this pic. Do I need different stuff too? Edited to show the original pic
> Thanks
> Marc


Most likely no. What is the O.D. of your upper headset bearing?

-SD


----------



## TDI Hoo

I have a 2012 Z6 with FSA Omega Megaexo crank. Stages power meter is not compatible. What Stages crankset can I swap in? Many thanks!
Products - Stages Cycling - Stages Cycling


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> I have a 2012 Z6 with FSA Omega Megaexo crank. Stages power meter is not compatible. What Stages crankset can I swap in? Many thanks!
> Products - Stages Cycling - Stages Cycling


TDI Hoo,

You'll need to replace the crank arms. You're choices are plentiful. 
Select the crankset that suits your budget; I like Shimano 105 for "bang for the buck".

-Dave


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> TDI Hoo,
> 
> You'll need to replace the crank arms. You're choices are plentiful.
> Select the crankset that suits your budget; I like Shimano 105 for "bang for the buck".
> 
> -Dave


Stages is having a close out on SRAM Rival cranksets with the power meter arm. Will this fit, or will I need an adaptor? It's a killer deal right now.

https://store.stagescycling.com/stages-power-meter--rival-crankset-p866.aspx


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> Stages is having a close out on SRAM Rival cranksets with the power meter arm. Will this fit, or will I need an adaptor? It's a killer deal right now.
> https://store.stagescycling.com/stages-power-meter--rival-crankset-p866.aspx


It will fit the frame. You need the crankset and a new BB. The Z6 FSA crankset uses a different BB.

-Dave


----------



## whetdesign

I'm trying to source a seat post binder bolt for my Felt AR2 as I've accidentally rounded the thread, and urgently need to find a replacement. Can anyone help? I'm based in the UK.

Thanks,
Marcus


----------



## Superdave3T

whetdesign said:


> I'm trying to source a seat post binder bolt for my Felt AR2 as I've accidentally rounded the thread, and urgently need to find a replacement. Can anyone help? I'm based in the UK.
> 
> Thanks,
> Marcus


Marcus,

It is an M6 bolt. A fairly standard M6 x 1 pitch. Just match the length with a hardware store item and you'll be able to get back on the road. Your local Felt Dealer can order replacements from our global customer service center via the UK distributor in the meantime.

-SD


----------



## whetdesign

Many thanks!


----------



## eddiecut

Superdave... I read a few pages back that if you paint a bike it voids the warranty.... what if it is done by a legit carbon paint shop? One that works on carbon repairs, paints carbon airplanes on a daily basis? Does that change anything? 

I want to paint the inside of my fork, rear triangle and a few other bits... not the entire bike.


----------



## SundayNiagara

With most of the bike paint schemes being so bleeping UGLY, why don't manufacturers supply the bikes in primer?


----------



## SilverStar07

Superdave- I recently picked up a 2015 AR3 and converted it to Ultegra Di2. I am trying to get the external frame plugs/grommets for the rear derailleur where it exits the chain stay, the plug for the bottom bracket as well as the ones for the down tube. I did see a small parts kit on your web site (part# 911024) and I am trying to confirm that kit contains the parts I am looking for. I did send an email to tech support over a week ago but haven't received an answer to my question. If you could please confirm if that is the kit I need or if it's not what kit I do need.

Thanks

SS-


----------



## Superdave3T

SilverStar07 said:


> Superdave- I recently picked up a 2015 AR3 and converted it to Ultegra Di2. I am trying to get the external frame plugs/grommets for the rear derailleur where it exits the chain stay, the plug for the bottom bracket as well as the ones for the down tube. I did see a small parts kit on your web site (part# 911024) and I am trying to confirm that kit contains the parts I am looking for. I did send an email to tech support over a week ago but haven't received an answer to my question. If you could please confirm if that is the kit I need or if it's not what kit I do need.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> SS-


SS,

Yes, this is the correct kit:
Electronic Frame Small Parts Kit (AR-Series) - 911024
• Contains All Small Frame Parts Necessary for running Electronic Shifting System
• Fits All 2014+ AR Series

-Dave


----------



## SilverStar07

Thanks SuperDave for the confirmation now I will order that kit. So far the AR has been wonderful unfortunately I haven't been able to ride it outside yet, (the weather hasn't been cooperating) but I have put about 100 trainer miles on it. This gives me plenty of time to get it ready for the upcoming triathlon season. Still need to get a few things for it but it should be ready to go by the time the weather turns.

Thanks Again

SS-


----------



## sandiegosteve

Does anyone know what the widest wheel and wheel tire combination will fit into a 2013 Fc frame?

I'm curious both about a wide wheel with a 25, a wide wheel with a 28, or a normal wheel with a 28.


Thanks,
steve


----------



## mrpercussive

I've got a Felt FC and i think it's a 2010? Anyways, whats the seatpost collar size? Thanks!


----------



## Superdave3T

mrpercussive said:


> I've got a Felt FC and i think it's a 2010? Anyways, whats the seatpost collar size? Thanks!


The O.D. is 30.6mm, not 30mm, not 31.8mm. Both will seem like they should fit, but won't.
You need 30.6mm, available from your Felt Dealer or our website.

-SD


----------



## mrpercussive

SuperdaveFelt said:


> The O.D. is 30.6mm, not 30mm, not 31.8mm. Both will seem like they should fit, but won't.
> You need 30.6mm, available from your Felt Dealer or our website.
> 
> -SD


'

rad! thanks!


----------



## BobbyDazzler

Hi there,

I built up my 2014 Felt F1 last Summer and am looking at new wheels for the upcoming season. A lot of them are moving to 25mm rim width, and some are as wide as 28mm. Will these fit into my frame? Looking at max tyre width of 25mm, and am using SRAM Force 22 standard brakes.

Many thanks!


----------



## FeltF75rider

I have November's Nimbus Ti alloy rims with Pacenti SL23 version 2 that measure 24.5 and Run Vittoria Pave tires 25cm that measure out at 26.5 on Front w/80psi and 27 in rear w/90psi. No clearance issues. Plenty of room. About maxed out on tire,size though.


----------



## BobbyDazzler

FeltF75rider said:


> I have November's Nimbus Ti alloy rims with Pacenti SL23 version 2 that measure 24.5 and Run Vittoria Pave tires 25cm that measure out at 26.5 on Front w/80psi and 27 in rear w/90psi. No clearance issues. Plenty of room. About maxed out on tire,size though.


Thank you! When you say nearly maxed out on tyre size, is that clearance to the brakes? Or stays/seattube? Sounds like a 28mm rim would be too much, if it stretches the tyre out to 28-30mm?


----------



## porterhouse

BobbyDazzler said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I built up my 2014 Felt F1 last Summer and am looking at new wheels for the upcoming season. A lot of them are moving to 25mm rim width, and some are as wide as 28mm. Will these fit into my frame? Looking at max tyre width of 25mm, and am using SRAM Force 22 standard brakes.
> 
> Many thanks!


I am curious what tires people are running on their F series also. 

Built up a 2015 F1 this year and made the mistake of installing my 303s with 25C Conti GP4000 tires without checking the clearance. Completed a shake down ride of about an hour and while checking the bike after the ride noticed the rear tire rubbed the left chain stay. The front was ok, no touching.

As previously noted, the 25C Open Pave is OK. I have also used a 25C Gatorskin in a pinch and that was fine. Would like to find some middle ground with better puncture resistance than the Vittoria but more supple than the Conti, however.


----------



## FeltF75rider

I have a set of Continental 4 season backseat I may mount up. These should have a little better puncture protection than the Pave's and maybe not so much expansion either. My normal spring summer tires are Vittoria Corsa Evo's at 23cm and no clearance issues for sure with these. I really doubt a 28 will fit but for sure the Pave tires give a great ride and are plenty wide on a wide rim like the Pacenti. I do like the wider tires but have a few 23's to burn through before I commit to running just 25's


----------



## FeltF75rider

So the Continentals measured out at 27.6 and 27.8 f/r with 80psi front and 90 psi rear. These are 4 seasons at 25mm


----------



## TrueType

I am wondering why Felt is making BB30 frames, when providing most of their road bikes with Shimano cranksets. I personally like the simplicity of BB30 and I believe their "narrower BB is better" claims to be correct. But unfortunately Shimano will never make a BB30 crankset. Then, wouldn't those simplicity, better power transfer and weight saving benefits of BB30 disappear when you have to use bulky adapters to fit a 24mm crank into a BB30 frame? Then you might as well made a frame that would accept Shimano crank directly to keep things simple and tight.

I see other manufacturers like Specialized, Cannondale and Cervelo who use BB30 or similar standards usually put third party cranksets on their bikes, which is maybe unfashionable, but should be mechanically better.


----------



## SundayNiagara

TrueType said:


> I am wondering why Felt is making BB30 frames, when providing most of their road bikes with Shimano cranksets. I personally like the simplicity of BB30 and I believe their narrower BB is better claims over the wider BB to be correct. But unfortunately Shimano will never make a BB30 crankset. Then, wouldn't those simplicity, better power transfer and weight saving benefits of BB30 disappear when you have to use bulky adapters to fit a 24mm crank into a BB30 frame? Then you might as well made a frame that would accept Shimano crank directly to keep things simple and tight.
> 
> I see other manufacturers like Specialized, Cannondale and Cervelo who use BB30 or similar standards usually put third party cranksets on their bikes, which is maybe unfashionable, but should be mechanically better.


The 2016 Z5 uses a threaded BB.


----------



## Superdave3T

TrueType said:


> I am wondering why Felt is making BB30 frames, when providing most of their road bikes with Shimano cranksets. I personally like the simplicity of BB30 and I believe their "narrower BB is better" claims to be correct. But unfortunately Shimano will never make a BB30 crankset. Then, wouldn't those simplicity, better power transfer and weight saving benefits of BB30 disappear when you have to use bulky adapters to fit a 24mm crank into a BB30 frame? Then you might as well made a frame that would accept Shimano crank directly to keep things simple and tight.
> 
> I see other manufacturers like Specialized, Cannondale and Cervelo who use BB30 or similar standards usually put third party cranksets on their bikes, which is maybe unfashionable, but should be mechanically better.


Every crankset on the market can fit into a BB30 frame. Not true of BB86, 386EVO, threaded, BBRight, etc...
The race frames are made with BB30 shells so they can be outfitted with whatever crankset you choose. The CeramicSpeed, Enduro, Wheels and other adapters allow you to run a Shimano crankset without compromise. Threaded BB also require care and a Shimano BB uses a plastic shim between bearing and adapter. Hardly "keeping things simple and light". Shimano does make a very inexpensive and reliable BB in Malaysia for their Hollowtech II cranksets so some Felt's are outfitted with threaded BB when every penny is counted such as on a 105 carbon bike where the market is so competitive and the consumer less apt to upgrade.

-SD


----------



## bkw

Can I use a controltaper fork in a frame that uses an aerotaper (AR) one? I assume not, but want to confirm.


----------



## TrueType

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Every crankset on the market can fit into a BB30 frame. Not true of BB86, 386EVO, threaded, BBRight, etc...
> The race frames are made with BB30 shells so they can be outfitted with whatever crankset you choose. The CeramicSpeed, Enduro, Wheels and other adapters allow you to run a Shimano crankset without compromise. Threaded BB also require care and a Shimano BB uses a plastic shim between bearing and adapter. Hardly "keeping things simple and light". Shimano does make a very inexpensive and reliable BB in Malaysia for their Hollowtech II cranksets so some Felt's are outfitted with threaded BB when every penny is counted such as on a 105 carbon bike where the market is so competitive and the consumer less apt to upgrade.
> 
> -SD


Thank you Dave. I realise BB30 is the way to go when it comes to fitment of all available cranksets. And I still think it is the best standard. I'm a novice cycler but an advanced level mechanical nerd..  So my theoretical concern may not be valid in real world practice. My worry was that when you fit a long spindle (86mm) in a 68mm BB shell, the extra length might cause an extra leverage and therefore an extra force on the narrower BB shell. The BB cup may be 86mm wide to support the spindle, but it is still installed in a 68mm shell.

But of course, I am confident that you guys at Felt already made the science and wouldn't make any compromise at this critical area. But as a nerd, I would still be happier with a dedicated BB30 crankset in my BB30 frame.


----------



## tlkris

Good day!

I have a 2015 Felt Z5... Can I upgrade my fork to a better one? Will Felt able to sell me an upgraded fork?

Thanks!
-C


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## TrueType

tlkris said:


> Good day!
> 
> I have a 2015 Felt Z5... Can I upgrade my fork to a better one? Will Felt able to sell me an upgraded fork?
> 
> Thanks!
> -C


Yeah! I was wondering if I could get a monocoque fork for my 2015 Z6 as well. The colours probably wouldn't match the frame but I'd be ok with it.


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## TDI Hoo

I have a 2012 Z6. I have 10,000 miles on it and the Tiagra shifter keeps eating cables in the shifter, no matter what brand of inner cable I use, about every 900 miles. The bike came with Jagwire housings. 1. Is it time to replace the housings and 2. What housings are your favorite? The cables break without any warning. Snap. I am now an expert at riding home with the broken cable end attached to the water cage bolt so I can ride on a smaller gear on the rear cassette. Thanks for any input. Jagwire makes a linked housing set and a sealed system. I think the Z6 version is unsealed.


----------



## TDI Hoo

I replaced the shifter housings and cables with Jagwire stuff from my local Felt dealer. I had aready had the rear Tiagra shifter replaced under warranty after a broken shifter cable broke the indicator. Now, it turns out the left side, front derailleur shifter is broken and won't index. Dealer says I can replace both shifters with 10 speed 105 shifters. I have a 100 mile Century coming up this weekend, and the Tiagra shifter is functional but is stiff and won't index. I think it has been this way for about 6 months. 

So, I plan to upgrade the 2012 Z6 to 105 shifters next week and leave it at in-laws house at the beach for the summer. I am looking at a new 2016 Z4 Disc with the instant rebate. Good deal! (I can leave the Z6 in the attic on rollers for off season training next winter.)

Here's my question for Will: Felt website in one place says the Z4 Disc has Rubino Pro slick tires under general info, and in another place it says it has Challenge Paris-Roubaix (technical specs.) Which tires will it have? Many thanks.


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> I replaced the shifter housings and cables with Jagwire stuff from my local Felt dealer. I had aready had the rear Tiagra shifter replaced under warranty after a broken shifter cable broke the indicator. Now, it turns out the left side, front derailleur shifter is broken and won't index. Dealer says I can replace both shifters with 10 speed 105 shifters. I have a 100 mile Century coming up this weekend, and the Tiagra shifter is functional but is stiff and won't index. I think it has been this way for about 6 months.
> 
> So, I plan to upgrade the 2012 Z6 to 105 shifters next week and leave it at in-laws house at the beach for the summer. I am looking at a new 2016 Z4 Disc with the instant rebate. Good deal! (I can leave the Z6 in the attic on rollers for off season training next winter.)
> 
> Here's my question for Will: Felt website in one place says the Z4 Disc has Rubino Pro slick tires under general info, and in another place it says it has Challenge Paris-Roubaix (technical specs.) Which tires will it have? Many thanks.


Wil doesn't work for Felt anymore.
I resigned a few months ago, too but I can tell you that the original Challenge Paris-Roubaix spec did not meet ISO tire clearance so the specification was changed to Rubino Pro Slick tires for an interim period until the new Graphene tires were available. It is likely the bike will have a evolving spec as inventory allows.

-SD


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## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Wil doesn't work for Felt anymore.
> I resigned a few months ago, too but I can tell you that the original Challenge Paris-Roubaix spec did not meet ISO tire clearance so the specification was changed to Rubino Pro Slick tires for an interim period until the new Graphene tires were available. It is likely the bike will have a evolving spec as inventory allows.
> 
> -SD


Thanks, Dave. Missed you at UCI Worlds here in Richmond. My Felt dealer is one of the biggest in sales in the Mid Atlantic. Congrats on your new job. And thanks for clarifying. I am torn between upgrading my Z6 and getting the Z4 Disc with the instant rebate. Will probably do both. (starting with 105 shifters to replace the Tiagras).

You are talking about Vittoria Graphene tires, right? Looks like there are 5 new Rubino tires with graphene. Do you have a favorite? My dealer says he can get the Z4 Disc within 5 business days from inventory.

Edit/Update: Ordered the Z4 Disc. Should be here next week. Will update with pics and the type of tires.


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## krankenstein

porterhouse said:


> I am curious what tires people are running on their F series also.
> 
> Built up a 2015 F1 this year and made the mistake of installing my 303s with 25C Conti GP4000 tires without checking the clearance. Completed a shake down ride of about an hour and while checking the bike after the ride noticed the rear tire rubbed the left chain stay. The front was ok, no touching.
> 
> As previously noted, the 25C Open Pave is OK. I have also used a 25C Gatorskin in a pinch and that was fine. Would like to find some middle ground with better puncture resistance than the Vittoria but more supple than the Conti, however.


I know you said the 25c conti rubbed, but what about the 303s? Any clearance issue for the 303s with the F1? I know the 303s are quite wide (28.5mm max width), and I wonder how good the clearance are, when installed on the F1, between the wheel and the seat/chain stays. Let me know if you can, thanks.


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## porterhouse

krankenstein said:


> I know you said the 25c conti rubbed, but what about the 303s? Any clearance issue for the 303s with the F1? I know the 303s are quite wide (28.5mm max width), and I wonder how good the clearance are, when installed on the F1, between the wheel and the seat/chain stays. Let me know if you can, thanks.


No problem with 303s on an F1. 

Can't find a good image but the chainstays are fairly straight between the BB and rear axle. The tightest point between the tire/wheel and chainstays (looking down) is the shoulder of the tire (where the tire contact area transitions to sidewall). There is a lot of clearance between the widest part of the 303 rim and chainstay. 









I think the frames that have clearance issues have chainstays that remain parallel then angle out to the rear axle.


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## bleckb

I had a similarly tight clearance when I was running the wheels my F2 came with, Shimano RS61. When mounted, there was enough space to maybe slide a piece of paper between the sidewall and the chainstay. Riding left some rubber on the chainstay. I upgraded to Mavics and no longer have the problem with the 25s.


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## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Wil doesn't work for Felt anymore.
> I resigned a few months ago, too but I can tell you that the original Challenge Paris-Roubaix spec did not meet ISO tire clearance so the specification was changed to Rubino Pro Slick tires for an interim period until the new Graphene tires were available. It is likely the bike will have a evolving spec as inventory allows.
> 
> -SD


LBS just built the bike and I will go get fitted tomorrow and post pictures. It arrived with Rubino Pro 25 mm tires. Not sure yet if they are the Graphene or the older, non-Graphene version.


----------



## Superdave3T

TDI Hoo said:


> LBS just built the bike and I will go get fitted tomorrow and post pictures. It arrived with Rubino Pro 25 mm tires. Not sure yet if they are the Graphene or the older, non-Graphene version.


98% chance they are older non-graphene used to meet cost requirements and delivery timing.


----------



## TDI Hoo

SuperdaveFelt said:


> 98% chance they are older non-graphene used to meet cost requirements and delivery timing.


Thanks, Dave. Glad you are still hanging out. 
Reviews show the older Rubinos have lower rolling resistance than the G+ tires and lighter weight, too. Not sure I could tell the difference in ride, but I will see. Have been riding Rubino Slicks on my Z6 and currently have the Continental GP 4000s II. Contis feel faster. Any great 3T upgrades suggested for the Z6 when I change shifters and tape? Any particular stem or bars worth considering?


----------



## cobra_kai

TDI Hoo said:


> Thanks, Dave. Glad you are still hanging out.
> Reviews show the older Rubinos have lower rolling resistance than the G+ tires and lighter weight, too. Not sure I could tell the difference in ride, but I will see. Have been riding Rubino Slicks on my Z6 and currently have the Continental GP 4000s II. Contis feel faster. Any great 3T upgrades suggested for the Z6 when I change shifters and tape? Any particular stem or bars worth considering?


The tires many not be the greatest but it really doesn't matter that much, in a few thousand miles they'll be worn out and you can put whatever you want on. Or spend $80 and swap them out now.

I've been quite happy with the 3T ergonova bars. The egg shaped top is extremely comfortable when riding on the tops, and the shallow drop lets me be very comfortable in the drops while keeping the hood position pretty low as well. I have them on both my bikes now. I am using 3T ARX stems as well. I don't really think they're anything out of the ordinary compared to high quality alloy stems from other brands but they match the bars and are good quality.


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## bleckb

cobra_kai said:


> I've been quite happy with the 3T ergonova bars. The egg shaped top is extremely comfortable when riding on the tops, and the shallow drop lets me be very comfortable in the drops while keeping the hood position pretty low as well.


I agree about the 3T Ergonova bars. My F2 came with them. Very comfortable all around.


----------



## FeltF75rider

bleckb said:


> I agree about the 3T Ergonova bars. My F2 came with them. Very comfortable all around.


Are you sure, Mine came with Ergosum bars. I put some Ergonova bars on my Tarmac and really like them. Thinking about putting Aeronova on my F2.


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## cobra_kai

FeltF75rider said:


> Are you sure, Mine came with Ergosum bars. I put some Ergonova bars on my Tarmac and really like them. Thinking about putting Aeronova on my F2.


I considered the aeronova bars but the reach measurement scared me off, it was something like 3 cm longer than the ergonova. I couldn't find anything definitive on whether it was being measured differently or just really is that long. With a 110 stem currently I didn't want to have to move to 80 if the reach was 3 cm longer.


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## bleckb

Now that you ask, I'm not sure. I'll have to look when I get home. My F2 was semi-customer as they took off the Di2 and put on mechanical and a few other things to fit my budget.


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## TDI Hoo

TDI Hoo said:


> LBS just built the bike and I will go get fitted tomorrow and post pictures. It arrived with Rubino Pro 25 mm tires. Not sure yet if they are the Graphene or the older, non-Graphene version.


Picked up the Z4 Disc tonight. Rode 20 miles in a misty, wet fog (with lights). The disc brakes are awesome! Tires are regular old 60 TPI Rubinos, not the Pros, which is just fine. Bike looks exactly like the pictures here:

Felt Z4 Disc | Park City Bike Demos

Two obervations:
1. The Fulcrum rear hub is silent. No clicks, nada. Just the quietest wheel/hub ever. Spies could ride this bike and no one would hear them coming or going.
2. When the bike is still, and I rock it side to side without moving the wheels, it has a resonance, just like rubbing your finger around the rim of a crystal champagne glass. It is a beautiful sound. Don't hear it at all when riding. Anyone else get the high pitched resonance from a Felt (or other) carbon frame?

Finally, the carbon construction is markedly different from the 2012 Z6 frame. Every tube is a different shape. Ridden one after the other, the 2016 Z4 Disc is much more responsive and snappier than the 2012 Z6, even before comparing Rival 22 to Tiagra. Well done, Felt. Need to clean the bike already before posting pics.


EDIT: I rode a century over the weekend (Virginia Cap2Cap), and the bike is a joy to ride. At mile 83 the rear hub started the tick, tick, normal hub sound.


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## bkw

*Seattube rub - FELT AR*

hey All, hoping I can get some advice from the experts around here.

For the Tour of the Battenkill this past weekend, I used a 25mm Specialized all-Conditions Armadillo tire and didn't check the clearances before the start. The rear tire rubbed pretty badly, bad enough that on the dirt sections I had to walk it because the tiny rocks and gravel would get caught between the tire and seat tube and would stop the rear tire from spinning. 

After the race, I took the wheel off and did some inspecting. I've added two photos - one with flash, and one without. 

The part that concerns me is the photo with the flash, particularly the left side of the layup where you can see that I've rubbed into the carbon weave. 

I'm really hoping that Felt used a few extra layers of fiber here because of it being a potential wear spot, but would like an expert to chime in and reassure me.. Or tell me that it's junk and time for me to find a new frameset. 

Thanks!!


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## STRANA

Hear a bit to pass time while i wait on my bike or if I have a bike. The basic is I took my bike in for the yearly overhaul at the LBS. I asked them to check out the cranks as they just started to click and in the past I had issues with the BB and the Omega cranks. I had upgraded to FSA energy cranks with a stages PM and since it has been smooth shifts and no clicks. A few hours later I get a call that the frame is cracked at the sleeve in the BB (didn't know they had one?) So I'm waiting on the verdict is it going to be covered under warranty? Bikes a 2014 Z5 any thoughts? The next issue is if it is whats in the supply chain to replace it I ride a 58 but could probably go up a size given the amount of seat tube. The bike has been a dream but now I'm concerned it could be a nightmare (I have never done well with a warranty on anything including new cars)? The frustrating part is missing this weekend to ride and next weekend is a charity ride that required serious (for me at least) fund raising it would be a bummer and half to miss the ride!


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## FeltF75rider

If it is a warranty issue they would most likely replace the frame with a ZC frame. A carbon frame with no model designation. I believe there are a few made just for warranty replacement. Should not take long to get an answer.


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## STRANA

I was told by the LBS and the Felt rep I would know Tuesday about the bike. I went to the shop and they gave me the reps phone number and said feel free to call. I'm thinking I'm alone in the cold at the moment. The store seems to have washed their hands of the situation and the rep hasn't returned the call. The whole argument about support your LBS seems to be nothing more then hype. I assume had I left a message that I wanted to buy a bunch of bikes I would have had my call returned within minutes but as I have spent my money I am no longer of interest.


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## bleckb

It's unfortunate your LBS is that way, but I have never had anything but the best from the shops I frequent. Those that I don't feel good about, I don't frequent. I bought a Felt precisely because the shop that sells them in Spokane, This Bike Life, is the opposite of what you describe. Sorry to hear it's not working for you.


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## dieselcruiserhead

Awesome. I work at Park City Bike Demos and we have a whole fleet of 4s and have sold quite a few. They're totally awesome... I made the choice to carry them plus all of our other bikes (Felt AR, etc etc)

Thx for posting the link. If anyone has any questions about any of the Felt bikes, we know them really really well. We also carry BMC, Colnago, Argon 18 , a bunch of others... I personally ride a 15lb Felt F3 that I absolutely love. 

My email is [email protected] if anyone has questions... 



TDI Hoo said:


> Picked up the Z4 Disc tonight. Rode 20 miles in a misty, wet fog (with lights). The disc brakes are awesome! Tires are regular old 60 TPI Rubinos, not the Pros, which is just fine. Bike looks exactly like the pictures here:
> 
> Felt Z4 Disc | Park City Bike Demos
> 
> Two obervations:
> 1. The Fulcrum rear hub is silent. No clicks, nada. Just the quietest wheel/hub ever. Spies could ride this bike and no one would hear them coming or going.
> 2. When the bike is still, and I rock it side to side without moving the wheels, it has a resonance, just like rubbing your finger around the rim of a crystal champagne glass. It is a beautiful sound. Don't hear it at all when riding. Anyone else get the high pitched resonance from a Felt (or other) carbon frame?
> 
> Finally, the carbon construction is markedly different from the 2012 Z6 frame. Every tube is a different shape. Ridden one after the other, the 2016 Z4 Disc is much more responsive and snappier than the 2012 Z6, even before comparing Rival 22 to Tiagra. Well done, Felt. Need to clean the bike already before posting pics.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I rode a century over the weekend (Virginia Cap2Cap), and the bike is a joy to ride. At mile 83 the rear hub started the tick, tick, normal hub sound.


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## alexl993

Fit Help! I have an opportunity to buy a pre owned 2105 F2 and need to make a (very) quick decision. This will be my first Felt. It's a 56 but I'm 6'1" and I'm not sure it will fit? The Felt website says either a 56 or a 58 but does not say how to choose. I have been professional fit on my Cervelo S2 which is a 56. I'm just not sure my fit numbers translate to the Felt geometry? My numbers are: Frame Reach 399mm and Frame stack 577mm. The 56 F are: Reach: 397 and Stack: 548. It seems the reach is OK but I would need a really long seat post?


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## cobra_kai

You would need 3 cm of additional spacers on the felt to replicate the fit. Unless you are slammed on the S2 with a negative stem it's probably not a great fit.


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## bleckb

I'm just under 6'2" and I ride a 58. Seatpost adjustment might depend on the length of your legs. I suggest you talk with whomever would be doing the fit and see what they think.


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## jpaschal01

alexl993 said:


> Fit Help! I have an opportunity to buy a pre owned 2105 F2 and need to make a (very) quick decision. This will be my first Felt. It's a 56 but I'm 6'1" and I'm not sure it will fit? The Felt website says either a 56 or a 58 but does not say how to choose. I have been professional fit on my Cervelo S2 which is a 56. I'm just not sure my fit numbers translate to the Felt geometry? My numbers are: Frame Reach 399mm and Frame stack 577mm. The 56 F are: Reach: 397 and Stack: 548. It seems the reach is OK but I would need a really long seat post?


Stack doesn't affect seat post height. Stack is going to determine bar height. The 3cm (30mm) of spacers is correct assuming that is your current actual stack and not just the current frame stack. If 577 is the frame stack and you have spacers increasing your actual bar stack, then you would need more spacers. If it is just the 3 spacers needed, verify the steer tube hasn't been cut and can accommodate the spacers and you should be fine.


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## alexl993

jpaschal01 said:


> Stack doesn't affect seat post height. Stack is going to determine bar height. The 3cm (30mm) of spacers is correct assuming that is your current actual stack and not just the current frame stack. If 577 is the frame stack and you have spacers increasing your actual bar stack, then you would need more spacers. If it is just the 3 spacers needed, verify the steer tube hasn't been cut and can accommodate the spacers and you should be fine.


OK, when I compared the geometry to the Cervelo, the S3 has a much taller head tube than the Felt F2, which worried me. I have short legs compared to my height . I did a quick adjustment to the seat post and spacers on the bike and did a quick test ride. It felt much more comfortable than my 58 Cervelo (even with a short 100mm stem) so I bought it. I'm sure once I dial everything in it will be great.


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## FeltF75rider

alexl993 said:


> OK, when I compared the geometry to the Cervelo, the S3 has a much taller head tube than the Felt F2, which worried me. I have short legs compared to my height . I did a quick adjustment to the seat post and spacers on the bike and did a quick test ride. It felt much more comfortable than my 58 Cervelo (even with a short 100mm stem) so I bought it. I'm sure once I dial everything in it will be great.


F2 is an awesome bike, I am always amazed when I ride mine. I am swapping out my bars(3T Ergosum) for 3T Ergonova's but only because I tried them and liked them more. I think you will be quite happy with it.


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## Procter

Hi Felt - 

I have a 2014 F5X, I need new cones for the rear hub, do you have these available? The spec on this bike says that this is the 'R3' hub. It is un-marked with no model. It has 1/4" free bearings on both sides. 

Picture of one of the cones is attached. They are 16.82mm in diameter and 13.9 mm tall. I searched Feltbicycle.com but no dice.


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## Procter

Hi Felt - 

I have a 2014 F5X, I need new cones for the rear hub, do you have these available? The spec on this bike says that this is the 'R3' hub. It is un-marked with no model. It has 1/4" free bearings on both sides. 

Picture of one of the cones is attached. They are 16.82mm in diameter and 13.9 mm tall. I searched Feltbicycle.com but no dice. 

View attachment 315239
View attachment 315240


----------



## Superdave3T

Procter said:


> Hi Felt -
> 
> I have a 2014 F5X, I need new cones for the rear hub, do you have these available? The spec on this bike says that this is the 'R3' hub. It is un-marked with no model. It has 1/4" free bearings on both sides.
> 
> Picture of one of the cones is attached. They are 16.82mm in diameter and 13.9 mm tall. I searched Feltbicycle.com but no dice.
> 
> View attachment 315239
> View attachment 315240


You aren't likely to get a reply from Felt here. Try [email protected] or [email protected]. Those hubs are made by Joytech and use a conventional cup/cone design. Shimano also uses the same ball diameter and axle thread pitch and likely has a suitably shaped replacement. If the cone depth is too short you can add some 10mm I.D. spacers to bring the O.L.D. up to the correct 135mm.

Good luck.
-SD


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## Procter

Thanks man great advice


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## knezz

FeltF75rider said:


> I have a set of Continental 4 season backseat I may mount up. These should have a little better puncture protection than the Pave's and maybe not so much expansion either. My normal spring summer tires are Vittoria Corsa Evo's at 23cm and no clearance issues for sure with these. I really doubt a 28 will fit but for sure the Pave tires give a great ride and are plenty wide on a wide rim like the Pacenti. I do like the wider tires but have a few 23's to burn through before I commit to running just 25's


I have a 2013 Z2. Are you convinced that 28's won't fit. I put the cart before the horse. i have a Dura-Ace c24 wheel set coming in. I also purchased Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II tires (haven't arrived yet)

I watched this (even though it's not an apples to apples comparison). 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5Tv8mLZRUc 

Does the clearance that the video show have enough clearance for riding? Is that what I should expect? I'm a 218 pounder.

I don't want to scar my carbon bike and am a little concerned. 

Anyone with a Z2 with 28 tires?


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## porterhouse

I think Felt75's reply was related to the F series.


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## knezz

knezz said:


> I have a 2013 Z2. Are you convinced that 28's won't fit. I put the cart before the horse. i have a Dura-Ace c24 wheel set coming in. I also purchased Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II tires (haven't arrived yet)
> 
> I watched this (even though it's not an apples to apples comparison).
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5Tv8mLZRUc
> 
> Does the clearance that the video show have enough clearance for riding? Is that what I should expect? I'm a 218 pounder.
> 
> I don't want to scar my carbon bike and am a little concerned.
> 
> Anyone with a Z2 with 28 tires?


After searching and searching I found the below answer from Dave back in 2013.

I'm wondering with the passage of time there would be additional information on 28 tires on a Z series..??

-----------------------------------
10-22-2013#838​
Superdave3T








3T Cycling
Reputation:







<dl class="userinfo_extra" style="margin: 5px 0px; float: left; width: 80px; height: auto !important;"><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Join Date</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">May 2009</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Posts</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">1,206</dd></dl>









_







Originally Posted by *NorCal FNG* 
Will 28mm tires fit my 2013 Z4?

thanks

dave

_

Yes. We design the bike with 6mm of clearance with 25mm tires. You should be able to fit 28mm tires with ~3mm of clearance. Under high torque low rpm efforts it may be possible for some combinations of wheel/tire to rub the frame slightly. If this occurs, downsize the tires.

​


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## knezz

knezz said:


> After searching and searching I found the below answer from Dave back in 2013.
> 
> I'm wondering with the passage of time there would be additional information on 28 tires on a Z series..??
> 
> -----------------------------------
> 10-22-2013#838​
> Superdave3T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3T Cycling
> Reputation:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <dl class="userinfo_extra" style="margin: 5px 0px; float: left; width: 80px; height: auto !important;"><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Join Date</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">May 2009</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Posts</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">1,206</dd></dl>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NorCal FNG*
> Will 28mm tires fit my 2013 Z4?
> 
> thanks
> 
> dave
> 
> _
> 
> Yes. We design the bike with 6mm of clearance with 25mm tires. You should be able to fit 28mm tires with ~3mm of clearance. Under high torque low rpm efforts it may be possible for some combinations of wheel/tire to rub the frame slightly. If this occurs, downsize the tires.
> 
> ​


Well 28mm tires won't fit the Felt Z2. I have Dura-Ace C24 clinchers and Continental 4000s II 28mm. The front fit with extra room available but the back rubbed with only 70psi.


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## jpaschal01

knezz said:


> Well 28mm tires won't fit the Felt Z2. I have Dura-Ace C24 clinchers and Continental 4000s II 28mm. The front fit with extra room available but the back rubbed with only 70psi.


Continental's have a reputation of always measuring wide. Your 28mm 4000S II probably measure between 30-32mm.


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## Liamsdad

Hey guys. Quick question . This looks like an old thread but not sure how to post since I'm new to the forum. I have a 2015 F1 frame set . Wanting to run di2 with a Seatpost battery. The only frame access point I see for junction B would be the hole under the BB. I've seen an article about a 2015 AR FRD being built up with di2 and they used that hole to stuff the B junction in. It looks to be the same size as the hole I have on the F1 but I couldn't really tell. So is this hole large enough for B junction to pass through ? Or how else might i route Di2 on this frame with an internal battery. Thanks.


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## knezz

jpaschal01 said:


> Continental's have a reputation of always measuring wide. Your 28mm 4000S II probably measure between 30-32mm.


The issue isn't width it's height. I only inflated to 70 psi . I had enough room on the sides but not the top. 

So, back to the 25mm.


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## diablo2112

I'm running 28mm Continental Ultra Sport II tires on my Felt Z2 Disc. No problems, but there's not a lot of clearance at the rear droppout. FYI.


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## jerryg

*2015 F1 fork*

I have a question about a fork on a 2015 F1. It looks to have some hairline cracks in it but are down low to the crown of the fork. I'm not sure if they are cosmetic or if I should be concerned about it. Is there an aftermarket fork that can be used in this frameset as the F1 of this style has been discontinued.














Thanks for your help!


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## TDI Hoo

Just wondering if anyone from Felt hangs out any more. Super Dave 3T? All the discussion about 28 mm tire on the Felt Z series has me wondering. I want to change out the Vittoria Rubino 25mm tires on my Z4 Disc to Challenge Paris-Roubaix tires. They are 27 mm. 

1.Do I want the clinchers or do I want to try the Open Tubulars? 300 TPI vs 120 TPI. Will they fit? Early Z4 Disc website info suggested the bike would come with them. Super Dave said there were ISO issues with the Challenge tires. 
2. Were the issues with the clincher version or the Open Tubular version? 
3. And will my 700 x 18/23 spare tubes be used with 27mm tires, or should I get 700 x 25/28 tubes?

I had a flat 2 days ago on the Rubinos, and they are non folding. Changing the tube in the middle of a ride was tougher than with the Rubino Pros I have had in the past. Any advice appreciated.


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## TDI Hoo

OK. I purchased the Challenge Paris-Roubaix 300 TPI 27mm Open Tubulars for my Z4 Disc. I just installed them. They fit just fine, at least after initial mounting. Takes about 20 minutes per tire. I now know why Felt doesn't put them on their bikes. They would have to charge $100 more per bike just for the labor. Fortunately, I bought the Crank Brothers Speedier tire lever and the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack. The CB tool help you get the first bead on the rim. I needed both tools to get the last 6 inches of the second bead on the rim. For now, as Challenge recommends, I am using butyl tubes. I am using 700 x 23/25 tubes for now. I will try the latex tubes after the tires stretch. I have an English Century next weekend on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. If it doesn't get rained out, (the forecast is for an East Coast deluge), I will report back on the ride quality. Just riding in my neighborhood tonight, it feels a bit springier. 

The tires come flat.


Here is the 25mm Rubino (still a bear to get off the rim)


This is the Crank Bros tool needed to get the first bead in the rim.



This is the clearance with the Challenge 27mm tires installed.


Comparison of the 25mm Rubino on the left (front wheel) and the 27mm Challenge on the right (rear wheel).


Kool Stop and Crank Bros tools. You can thank me later. 



Update: I did ride the English century on the eastern shore of Virginia. Temps as low as 46, avg 51, briefly got to 61F. 21-25 mph sustained winds, rain, and gusts up to 40 mph. But the Challenge tires were fantastic. Earlier in the week I road 35 miles with the tires at 80 psi. For the century, I filled them to 90 psi. The roads were rural, and there was a fair amount of leaves/twigs and small branches from the high winds. Wet traction was just fine on the very flat route. Obviously, comfort was the most noticeable of these tires, along with great cornering feel. As others have noted, the tires do stretch a bit after riding, and they look larger than 27 mm. The Felt Z4 Disc still has clearance, though only about 2 mm from rear tire to the "rib" that protrudes downward from the rear seat stays. I am planning to get latex tubes and I will update again after I purchase them. Still deciding between Vittoria and Challenge for the latex tubes. Bottom line: if your bike will fit the Challenge Paris-Roubaix open tubulars, you will be impressed with the ride compared to 25 mm tires. I certainly haven't felt any slower with them over the 140 or so miles I have ridden. I will update with their longevity over time. If they last long enough and over time have reasonable puncture resistance, I will stick with these tires. You can find them for about the same price as 28 mm Vittoria G+ Rubinos. But the initial installation is a bear. 

Here is the clearance after 140 miles:





August 2017 UPDATE: I now have more than 3000 miles on the tires. Front has minimal treadwear. Rear has lost the herringbone tread down the center. Maybe another 500-800 miles left. I will definitely repurchase. And yes, I moved them to Zipp wheels and they are much easier to mount after the first mounting and some miles.

November 2017 UPDATE: I just passed 4000 miles on the tires. Front tire can definitely go more than another 1000+ miles. Rear tire has held up well and may get me through some winter training, but I will definitely replace for spring training. It is not quite squared off. Local bike shop ordered me 2 more tires and matched ebay prices.

April 2018 UPDATE: Just passed 5700 miles on the set. I replaced the rear tire due to some cuts in the tread and not wanting to push my luck. I will replace the front tire in a few weeks. I am getting better at mounting the tire with less difficulty and less finger soreness. I am now riding Zipp 30 Course Disc wheels. There is a lot of clearance with newly mounted tires before they stretch. 




September 2019 update: Really enjoy these tires. Over the last year I have switched to latex tubes. They "feel" more supple than the butyl tubes. I got over 9000 miles out of the front tire. I am currently on 3800 miles on the current set of front and rear tires. The rear tire has stretched more than the previous two, and clearance is just barely 1 mm, but that has not been a problem, as I am a roadie. Friends riding behind me cannot believe the lack of clearance, but in 3 years of continuous use of these tires, only one puncture from a large carpet tack and one butyl tube valve failure (Kenda tube). I am currently riding the Silca/Vittoria latex tubes and no problems in the last 5 months since I switched. They are still difficult tires to install and remove on my wide Zipp 30 Course wheels. I keep thinking about changing to Continental GP 5000 or Schwalbe One Tubeless, but I will stick with tubes for now.


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## rochrunner

Mistake - post deleted.


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## gurk700

Am I going insane or did Felt take FR1 Disc off of their website? If so, why? I was pretty excited about that one.


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## Superdave3T

gurk700 said:


> Am I going insane or did Felt take FR1 Disc off of their website? If so, why? I was pretty excited about that one.



SRAM cannot deliver the eTap hydro components.
-SD


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## gurk700

Superdave3T said:


> SRAM cannot deliver the eTap hydro components.
> -SD


 are there plans to offer a disc FR1 frame?


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## Philouant

Hi, new to forum, hope you can help. I have a 2015 Felt z6 and need some bearings for the headset, can you help with specifications? regards.


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## natedg200202

When is the disc brake version of AR being released? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TrueType

Hello. I'm having an issue with my bike's FD hanger rivets. The two rivets in the front are too loose and preventing a good FD adjustment. They let the hanger move backwards when I shift to the big ring as a cable tension is applied to move the FD cage outwards.mThe bike is a 2015 Felt Z6, purchased in Nov. 2015.

Is there a solution, preferably under warranty?


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## Ropes4u

Does anyone know if clement x'plor mso 40s will fit on a sized 47 F65x?


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## Danomorgan

Hi all wondering if you can help with a Felt freehub query I have.

I recently picked up a Felt wheelset with Felt hubs (700c 40x19mm wheels, 28 spoke) off of a Felt F75. The 2014 F75 spec was a Shimano 105 groupset with the 10 speed Only Shimano 105 cassette meaning I have the quite rare 10 speed Only freehub.
Is it possible that any other Wheel Hub manufacturers made wheel hubs that are same spec as the Felt hubs so that I can upgrade my freehub to 11 speed compatible one?


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## riccardo123

Judging by the UK spec, the 2014 F75 had the same hubs and rims as my 2014 Z6 - Felt R3 hubs, Mavic CXP22 rims. If they are the same, they are already 10 and 11 speed compatible. All you need to do is remove the plastic spacer disc.


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## laperted

Hi Felt guys,

I've a 2007 Felt F75 now with many upgrades. It's originally fitted with 105 5600 (I think) shifters, FD and cranksets (FC R600). Time has come for an upgrade. So I was wondering if the new 105 5700 shifters will work with the 105 5600 front derailleur and, most importantly, the Ultegra 6600 GS rear derailleur


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## Danomorgan

thanks for replying, the wheelset are Felt rims & hubs and the freehub is definitely a 10 speed only with the deeper splines and unfortunately without any cassette spacers. I need to replace freehub but the question is what will fit the wheel hub? I can provide the dimensions of the hub and freehub if that helps?


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## riccardo123

That is beyond my knowledge I'm afraid. Maybe you could try the "Components/wrenching" section? Or just replace the wheel if it turns out to be awkward or expensive to swap a freehub.


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## TDI Hoo

I doubt anyone from Felt still reads this forum, but my 2016 Felt Z4 with Fulcrum Racing Sport DB wheels, has had the freehub corrode. It is not fixable. Fulcrum is an Italian company and has no retail in the USA. They only sell to manufacturers. Felt is looking into this, since the bike is just 3 weeks older than a year, and the bike has about 3800 miles on it. Multiple Sclerosis Society Colonial Crossroads ride is this weekend, and I was hoping to ride 200 miles. Will update. Local Felt dealer can get me a Zipp rear wheel (30 Course DB) by Friday, but cost is high. Will see if eFlt has 3T or DT Swiss wheels available. Fulcrum has changed the hub design 3 times on their entry level disc brake wheels. Clearly, the initial one from 2015 is inferior. Not fun to ride when you cannot coast.

Update: Took more than a week, but Fulcrum is looking into what can be done. Felt is very supportive and will step in if Fulcrum doesn't. Might be a month or so. I did buy the Zipp Course 30 DB, and the Challenge Paris-Roubaix open tubular still just barely clears with the Zipp 21 mm inner rim width. Zipp says I can still ride a 23 or 25 mm tire with the Course 30 DB safely (at odds with ETRTO/ISO). I watched the LBS tech put the Zipp together. The freewhub is easy to replace and is not fused/corroded to the axle like the Fulcrum. Will post pics/vid of old wheel if Fulcrum can send a replacement. Fingers crossed.

July 13 Update: Fulcrum has the rear wheel. Still waiting to see what replacement will arrive. Been a long 6 weeks so far. Still, very glad Felt and Fulcrum and LBS worked this out to get me a replacement wheel.

August Update: Fulcrum fixed the hub but charged me $133 dollars including shipping both to and from Fulcrum USA. They said corrosion is not covered under the 2 year warranty. I rode the wheels in the rain exactly 3 times. I don't ever plan to buy Fulcrum products. The Racing DB Sport is an OEM wheel with no parts available to shops. Poorly done, Fulcrum.


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## tranzformer

I stickied this thread. If at some point it no longer needs to be stickied let myself or another moderator know. Important enough of a thread that it should be at the top of this sub-forum.


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## Darh

I am about to purchase petite size zw3 disc bike on the understanding that I can swap to wider tyres as I have injury and need to minimise road vibration.
What is the widest tyre that will fit? 
Thanks.


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## Darh

*Duplicate post : sorry*

ours Ago#1​
Darh 








RoadBikeReview Member
Reputation:







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I am about to purchase petite size zw3 disc bike on the understanding that I can swap to wider tyres as I have injury and need to minimise road vibration.
What is the widest tyre that will fit? 
Thanks.​


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## Darh

Sorry about duplicate post. I am new to this. Will delete one if I can work out how!


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## thefollandgnat

First post here, so hi from Alton in England! I've got an F4 (2012) and an F85 (2012), both 56 frame. Two things: I crashed the F4 and cracked the back of the frame (possibly), and the front forks of the F85 seem to have gone over the years. Would I be OK putting the undamaged front forks of the F4 on to the F85? Is there anything I should know, or would it be OK just to follow the steps on the GCN fork-replacement video?


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## riccardo123

Hello... I'm in UK too, though nowhere near Alton

1) I THINK your forks are the same dimensions, but I can't be certain. Try emailing Felt directly? They don't seem to have anyone watching this forum any more, sadly.

2) I am curious as to what you mean by the F85 fork being "gone".

3) As for the process of swapping, I'd ask again in the "Components/Wrenching" subforum. There are some very knowledgable folk there.

All the best


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## thefollandgnat

Hi Riccardo, Thanks for answering. When I say gone, the bearings have gone, the top part rattles, and the paint/finish has completely flaked off at the point where the forks fit into the frame. Having given it a bit more thought I think I'll ask the LBS where I bought it as they used to be a Felt dealer and the guy should know.


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## Lantzman16

A little help if you would? My sister has taken her Felt B16 to two bike shops and they don't have a good answer for us. 

Symptom- I can set the B Tension screw (Dura Ace RD-7800 GS) when the chain is on the large chainring 53T and it works well. When I shift to the small chainring 39T the guide wheel rides (hits) on the cassette cogs.

If I turn in the B Tension screw so the small chainring works well, then there is a large guide wheel gap and poor shifting on the large chainring. And the position of the B screw plate is about 90 degrees to the hanger bracket. This cannot be correct.

I've checked the chain length and it seems okay to what I've read online. I'm not sure what is wrong. What can I check next?

Felt B16
Dura Ace 10 Speed RD-7800 GS, not original to the bike I assume
The rest of the drive is Dura Ace 10 Speed
53 + 39 Chainrings
28 thru 11 Cassette


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## alext

Hi

I recently bought a secondhand Felt Single Speed Cyclocross Breed 2014 from ebay. I live in Norway, and had it sent from the US, choices are limited here. I discovered the freehub body is rusted badly, and though i have tried to restore it, the pawls and mechanism, though working now, probably need replacing.

there doesn't appear to be any branding on the hub. So.. any specs or info on the freehub or who produced or supplied the hubs, would be greatly appreciated. Winter is coming, and I need to get this baby snow-ready.

cheers Alex


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## Indyana

Hi Superdave


What are the dimensions of the balls for the front and rear bushings of a *Felt V85 Adventure Disc*? (It has hub of cones and balls)


The hubs are ... I think ... front hub Felt R3 Disc, sealed bearing, 32H. The rear hub is Felt R3 Disc, sealed bearing, 32H, 11-speed.

I hope I have explained... google translate 


Thank you!!!


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## toonarmy20

Hi,
my 2015 Felt AR5 came with all of the grommets needed for a di2 conversion except the internal seatpost battery mount clip and spring. 
Any idea where i can purchase just the clip and spring? Im in the Uk.
Cheers


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