# Please help identify this vintage Omega road bike



## BikingBrett (Oct 4, 2017)

Hello,

I am new to cycling and this is my first post. I need help identifying this Omega road bike. I acquired this bike from a yard sale for $40 and I want to fix it up to begin riding. I also want to know a little more about it. I have searched online but I haven't found the answers I am looking for. I think everything on the bike is original except for the seat. I can upload more pictures if needed, but this is the only one I have as of now (hopefully big enough to view). Thanks for any help or insight!

Brett Thomas


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

it's a lower level bike, but i can't tell much with the non-drive side pic.  make it a practice to take photos of the right side of the bike.

omega isn't a familiar brand to me either.

date codes are often available on components. you can then reference these codes on the vintage trek website to determine the date.

post another pic of the right side and close-ups if you wish, and we can go from there.


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Well, for $40, you got.......a $40 bike. Are the rims steel or aluminum? If the latter, might be worth a whole c-note...... At least it doesn't have "Ashtabula" cranks, but everything else I see tells me it was a department-store bike from 30+ years ago, and probably cost less than $200 when new. Don't spend too much on it.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

stem shifters, suicide brakes, heavy rims...

wasn't a top-end bike when new.

personally, I'd look for something nicer to fix up.


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## BikingBrett (Oct 4, 2017)

Thanks for all of the input. I will probably look for a better entry road bike to fix up. Do you have any suggestions on which bikes to target? I would like to have somewhat of a project bike to work on as well.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

around here, Centurion Iron Man bikes are relatively easy to come across...typically going for $200-350 (depending on condition).

they have decent steel tubing (Tange) and are a good base to build something up...


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

BikingBrett said:


> Thanks for all of the input. I will probably look for a better entry road bike to fix up. Do you have any suggestions on which bikes to target? I would like to have somewhat of a project bike to work on as well.


if you live in a big market, you could fix up this one and then flip it. that's much more difficult in a small (non-college) town. 

you need to ensure it has aluminum rims before proceeding. just use a magnet. be aware that the steel bead of the tire will barely attract a magnet even if the rims aren't steel.

post a drive side pic so we know what you're working with. it doesn't really look that bad. and if you have a bike co-op in the area, replacement parts like brake levers can be had for $5.


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## hfc (Jan 24, 2003)

I agree with department store low end bike. It will be a good grocery getter but probably not that much fun for a fitness or speed bike. That seat post looks to be slammed, I'd worry that it might be stuck.

When shopping for budget friendly vintage steel, look for the tubing sticker on the front side of the seat tube. Reynolds 531 (and higher), Tange Prestige (other versions are good too but I don't know as well), and the wide variety of Columbus tubesets can indicate a quality built frame.


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Since the OP obviously doesn't know what to look for, let me use his current bike as a reference:

Item #1: You rarely find anything other that department store junk at yard/garage sales.

#2) Schrader valves indicate a DSB (department store bike)

#3) Steel rims, too

#4) Stem shifters also

#5) Foam bar pads as well

#6) Brakes with 'chicken levers' are DSBs

#7) Plastic 'dork disc' under the cassette/freewheel scream "cheap!"

#8) Any sort of chainguard ring (plastic or metal) on the outside of the chainrings means a low-end bike

#9) Presence of a kickstand means it's built for kids

#10) Those silly little 1/4 chrome fenders that serve no purpose = DSB

#11) Ashtabula cranks are often found only on VERY cheap bikes


Your bike has pretty much all of these features. What you have is good for a 'winter beater', but that's about all.


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

notime is a useless troll with absolutely no clue.

- dork disks were installed on many levels of bikes back in the day.
- bar tape and brake levers can be easily replaced.
- he doesn't know if your rims are steel.
- kickstands can come in handy for ferry rides and the like. or just remove it.
- your crank is a 3-piece cotterless, just like all of mine.
- stem shifters are on lower level bikes, but they work just like down tube shifters.
- chain guards are a sign of many lower level bikes, but they're on all kinds of modern city and dutch bikes too.
- schrader valves are simply a sign of an old bike, not necessarily low-end.

your bike may be as decent as a vintage lower level fuji, motobecane, nishiki, etc... i see a nice crank, serviceable pedals, lugged frame, and a quick release hub on the front -- all a sign that your bike is nicer than a schwinn varsity or dept store bike as the troll would have you believe.


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