# Miyata 1000LT in a trash can. What do I do with it?



## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

Hello All, and thank you for any advice you may be able to give me.

edit: if this is not the best sub-forum could you point me in the right direction?

I was on my way out of the neighborhood today and saw a set of road bars sticking out of a garbage can so I wheeled around and pulled out a complete frame and a pair of wheels. I saw it was a full Deore DX group except a 105 front mech, so I took it figuring I could use the spare wheels for my ride, knowing nothing about the bike.


















































I start looking online and come to find out the Miyata 1000lt seems to be quite the sought after vintage bike.

It was covered in dust and dog hair and had a 2 year old LBS repair tag on it. Its a little nicked up and the seat and bar tape is smoked but over all not bad.

I pumped the tires up to 100 and took it for a ride and it seems mechanically great. Its a 60cm seat post, maybe 58 top tube, can't remember exactly, either way I ride a 54-55cm.

What is it worth?
I restore stuff all the time and I am trying to figure out what the market is for them now? i.e.- is it worth my time to restore? clean it and ride it?
sell as is? 
I was a mechanic for years and the work (sans paint) would be done by me.


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## Mcfarton (May 23, 2014)

First I would check if it is stolen. After I did the best I could to confirm no one is missing that bike I would just clean it up and sell it. If it was my size I may keep it. But being that much larger I would just sell it as is and call it found money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

There was 2 other bikes, and the repair tag has the name, number, and the address where I found it so its a safe bet its not stolen. Safe enough for me anyway.


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## old_fuji (Mar 16, 2009)

You're probably going to want to strip the entire thing down to the bare frame, repack any bearings that you find, and add a little assembly grease to every single bolt you remove from the bike. Give the frame a solid inspection, make sure everything is straight and solid, and that there's no structural rust. It might be worth a little Weigle's Frame Saver inside the tubes to treat any internal rust. Then, you'll need to pursue a new chain, new cables and housing, brake pads, and perhaps tubes/tires.

It's a small pleasure of mine to do ^^that^^ to a bike every couple years...I've got the itch somethin' fierce recently, and have been scouring the local area for a similar bike.

Good luck, and be sure to keep us up to date!


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

i would fully overhaul it, touch up any frame paint using a bottle of testors, and buy these items:

- pasela gumwalls
- honey fizik bar tape
- matching front derailleur
- kool stops or similar
- clips and straps
- replacement spokes, if needed.
- black or brown leather saddle (either gyes or vintage avocet).

i would deanodize and polish the stem. and either do the same to the chanrings or buy used ones. then take professional looking photographs in the shade of a beautiful park on a sunny day.

it would be done by May, which is perfect timing to list it in my big market for at least $600 if it rode perfectly, as expected.


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

This morning i stripped it to the frame. everything is in great shape except the fixed cup of the BB wouldn't budge. Have to get out the Big A$$ wrenches this evening. The bearings were in great shape, the bike was obviously professionally maintained up until the date on the repair tag. 
I'll be ordering the front derailleur this evening and a couple replacement decals from velocals.com

I love the look of the brown leather, will have to go that route I think.

Thanks for all your input thus far. 
This is the sort of thing I love doing, even if I won't be the one to enjoy the end product.

50% of the blemishes on the frame came out with some buffing compound on a microfiber.

Photos to follow this evening.


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

Connor311 said:


> everything is in great shape except the fixed cup of the BB wouldn't budge. Have to get out the Big A$$ wrenches this evening.


leave it! no reason to remove it unless you're replacing it or powder coating the frame. clean it thoroughly from the inside.



> i love the look of the brown leather, will have to go that route i think


honey brown still is in the highest demand on touring bikes where i live, especially for a frame of this color. fizik feels better than leather after the newness of the leather wears off and hardens. fizik looks newer, longer. so you can ride the bike a while and the tape will still look new when you show it to customers. only problem is honey is hard to find and you usually pay a premium. (still usually less expensive than real leather.) i usually get mine from ebay shipped from asia. the brooks branded microfiber is way too thick for me. doesn't look near as neat as fizik.



> 50% of the blemishes on the frame came out with some buffing compound.


well done!

take pics of the bare frame and new items with packaging labels (like tires) so customers can see your work without relying only on your word. this will command the highest price and quick sale.

great thread!


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

I hope you know that the 'fixed cup" is reverse-threaded, don't you?


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

No Time Toulouse said:


> I hope you know that the 'fixed cup" is reverse-threaded, don't you?


Yes I do, was using a crappy stamped wrench and it would not budge. I didn't feel like digging out my big Snap-On set since I just unloaded my tool box into plastic bins.. I just left it and cleaned it in-situ.

I will be getting bar tape and some new rubbers soon.

In the mean time, let the cleaning and polishing begin.
I took photos but forgot to change the size setting so they'
re too large to upload.

Until tomorrow..


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## curtw (Mar 27, 2004)

<HOMER> Mmmmmm. Biopace. </HOMER>


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Biopace rings aside, that's a nice touring bike you've got there. Triple-butted frames are a step above just double-butted, so it was an expensive bike when new.


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

No Time Toulouse said:


> Triple-butted frames are a step above just double-butted.


depends on the steel.

i'll take 531sl over just about anything.


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

*Progress*

Good morning,

I've been making some headway towards determining overall condition, and getting things cleaned up. I'm a bit obsessive/compulsive but its like therapy to me, however as I'm sure you all know it takes time...

Where I'm at, other than developing a senseless emotional attachment to this bike:















lots of 0000 steel wool and wd-40 cleaned them up beautifully once I found my Shimano tool do tear apart the cassette.







BB spindle is toast. Have to find a replacement/ go to a sealed BB? Is that blasphemous? 














love the bars.. 








I've found honey bar tape, and a honey colored used brooks saddle.

I need to get tires, what width should I go for on a touring bike? its got 25 on the front and 28 on the rear..

The shifters and Bl-600 Tri-Color brake levers are pretty gaffed up. I'll either re-paint them or replace if I can find them affordable anywhere since the hoods are a bit gummy. Also need to strip or repaint the stem.. 

Fantastic project.. I really wish it were my size :/

Till next time.


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## old_fuji (Mar 16, 2009)

Do you need a cartridge BB? I know I have an extra sitting around, brand new in package, if you're interested.

edit:
And also a 45 or 48 tooth chainring that'll fit that Biopace chainring as well.


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## craiger_ny (Jun 24, 2014)

I was just about to say 'cool'...then I saw the flip-flops with socks...


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

Connor311 said:


> I need to get tires, what width should I go for on a touring bike? its got 25 on the front and 28 on the rear.


let the market decide and get whatever is less expensive. if 25s and 28s are the same price, do whatever you think is best for the fit and finish of the bike. i would go 25s (i ride 23s), but more riders probably prefer 28s. 28s handle better on gravel if there's a lot of that in your area.

gumwall paselas would look great with those black rims. try niagara, amazon, and ebay. on ebay, look at the high priced items also, 'cause tires are often listed as a pair. or search for "pair."



> The shifters and Bl-600 Tri-Color brake levers are pretty gaffed up.... need to strip or repaint the stem.


use oven cleaner with lye in it, like easy-off. i put the component in a glass baking pan, spray it, let it sit for 12 min, flip it over, spray it again, and let it sit for 12 min. open a window, hold your breath, and wash hands immediately after each time you make contact.

you can then run the component under a faucet to remove the blackened residue. then polish it with an iron file and good 3m wet sandpaper, 600-1000 grit. mother's polish will make it shine.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Connor311 said:


> I need to get tires, what width should I go for on a touring bike? its got 25 on the front and 28 on the rear..


It being a touring bike I'd put the largest tires that'd fit. If 32's would fit I wouldn't hesitate to mount those.


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

blackfrancois said:


> use oven cleaner with lye in it, like easy-off.


thanks for the tip, I've never tried oven cleaner!



old_fuji said:


> Do you need a cartridge BB? I know I have an extra sitting around, brand new in package, if you're interested.
> 
> edit:
> And also a 45 or 48 tooth chainring that'll fit that Biopace chainring as well.


I went to the LBS and got one right after I posted that. Bummer. And this has 28/44/50 rings and they're in decent enough shape that I'm not going to worry about changing them. Thank you though :thumbsup:



velodog said:


> It being a touring bike I'd put the largest tires that'd fit. If 32's would fit I wouldn't hesitate to mount those.


I've ordered Pasela 28s due to price and the consensus opinion of the people I've asked. Thanks for all the input


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

She is slowly coming together, 








I'm waiting on the saddle, bar tape, brake cables, and derailleur.

Still debating on kool-stops or not- I like the Cross Canti set with replaceable inserts but not sure if it would make a worthwile return on the 30 clams. What to you guys say?

I want to do the best job I can in redoing it, but I am on a budget and its not going to be mine.



blackfrancois said:


> - pasela gumwalls


P.s. i love the paselas on it, thanks for the suggestion!


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

Connor311 said:


> Still debating on kool-stops or not. I like the Cross Canti set with replaceable inserts but not sure if it would make a worthwile return on the 30 clams.


yeah, that's way too much to spend on pads for a flip. most I'll spend is $20 on kool-stops for weinmann, mafac, or similar.

surprised you left the stem black, but maybe it will work with the rims and chainrings.



> i love the paselas on it, thanks for the suggestion!


:thumbsup:


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## old_fuji (Mar 16, 2009)

I have regular black Kool Stops on my bikes. But, I'm not a super hard rider...my top speed is like 35mph, and I rarely ride farther than 25 miles.


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## Connor311 (Mar 20, 2018)

The stem was a toss up, I don't have access to a buffing wheel anymore so it would be all hand polishing, and with the scratches/ dings in it, I felt it was not worth the time to try and get it to a satisfactory polish. I may change my mind, I'm not in love with the imbalance with the seat post.


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

Connor311 said:


> The stem was a toss up... it would be all hand polishing, and with the scratches/ dings in it, I felt it was not worth the time... I may change my mind, I'm not in love with the imbalance with the seat post.


i've seen a lot of '80s bikes with black stems, and very few of them also have a black seatpost. but they often have black rims. here's an '81 mondia super i had that came with a black cinelli stem. it originally had black tubular rims i replaced with the polished clinchers in the pic. it worked with the black pinstriping and housing.

hand polishing stems and seatposts is pretty easy -- much easier than bars or cranksets. but you need an iron file and good 600 grit 3m paper. it can be pretty messy, though.


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