# Sliding forward in saddle, anyone know a good value-fitter in PGH?



## jfd986 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi all,

So this question pertains to my winter bike, not my road bike, which is currently awaiting a new rear wheel in the mail because it fell off my rack and got run over by a car.

So I'm 5'5-5'6 and I bought a 17" Marin Muirwoods. It seemed fine when I test-rode it, but I didn't exactly put it through its paces. Now I'm about 100 miles into the bike and I've noticed I'm sliding forward on the seat. It's the stock seat, which is 100% smooth, and I'm usually wearing running tights over pearl izumi attack shorts.

So I just tried nudging the saddle forward in the trainer, back, up, down .... I don't know what I'm doing, I could get that program out again ( I think it was called 'Kinovea' ) but what I really need is an actual fitter. Does anyone know a good one in Pittsburgh? 

Looking to spend as little money as necessary on this, just need to not slide forward anymore. I'm concerned the thing may be too big for me, but then again I haven't ridden a flat-bar bike in a long long time. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to feel like I'm leaning a bit into the handlebars, I know that I can sit up and ride hands-free just fine, don't know if that makes a difference, but yeah every so often I realize "wait, my sit bones aren't on anything" and I slide myself back. Does anyone have any solutions? From what I've read, possible problems include:

- Seat too far forward
- Seat tilted down too much
- Seat too smooth
- Bike too big

If it's the last one, I don't think the folks at REI are going to be too happy about me wanting to exchange my 2-month-old bike for a smaller, newer version. I mean that's their policy and everything, but I'd be interested in avoiding that as much as possible. Otherwise, honestly, I like the bike. A lot. It's heavier than a rock and rides like a tank. I love it, it's never going to die. (hopefully)


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Most likely excessive reach, but could also be saddle tip angled down slightly. 

I like your idea of (first) finding a reputable fitter. If it's determined the cause is an ill sized frame, you could return the bike for a smaller size. If sizing is close, the fitter could install a slightly shorter stem and have you test ride to assess.

Personally, I wouldn't keep a bike not sized correctly. It'll never fit quite right.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

REI is pretty expensive. Go ahead and use their return policy if you think it might help. Look at the reach information on Marin's geometry charts first, though, there's no guarantee the 15" is smaller in the way that matters.

Seeing a fitter sounds like a plan. You may want to do it again on your nicer bike.


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## jfd986 (Jul 17, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> REI is pretty expensive. Go ahead and use their return policy if you think it might help. Look at the reach information on Marin's geometry charts first, though, there's no guarantee the 15" is smaller in the way that matters.
> 
> Seeing a fitter sounds like a plan. You may want to do it again on your nicer bike.


You know I just looked at it, and it looks like there's just 1.5 cm of difference. That's not too significant, unless the rest of the bike is resized around it to make it work. In any case, I sent emails to a couple of fitters and none of them got back to me, I don't really know where to post to ask for this, I'm gonna try the Pittsburgh section and see what happens.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jfd986 said:


> You know I just looked at it, and it looks like there's just 1.5 cm of difference. That's not too significant, unless the rest of the bike is resized around it to make it work. In any case, I sent emails to a couple of fitters and none of them got back to me, I don't really know where to post to ask for this, I'm gonna try the Pittsburgh section and see what happens.


It's just under 14mm's difference, but that IS significant in terms of bike fit. And STA, HTL being the same, there's no correction - it's still 14mm's difference.

Still a good plan to get the advice of a reputable fitter. If you're between sizing requirements in reach, the larger size may still be workable. But either way, at least then you'll know.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

How long is the existing stem?

IME, if I have to use something shorter than 80 mm on a flat bar bike, I'm never going to get the bike to be both comfortable and handle well. I really feel those 10 mm increments.


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## jfd986 (Jul 17, 2011)

So Frank at BikeTek ended up saying the bike is too big, and I returned it to REI.

Looking into a new winter bike, but not in a huge hurry to buy one considering what just happened with this one. I realized the tire width of the bike isn't necessarily a big concern to me because whatever width I buy, I'm going to be able to get ice tires in that width. Also I don't really see a huge necessity for wide tires if I'm riding on the street in winter snow, but I do see the need for studs. So my ideal winter bike at this point would be:

- Flat bar hybrid ( I figure easier to handle over snow and mud and garbage than cyclocross)
- Steel (vs. aluminum, thoughts?)
- Disc brakes
- Add studded tires

Back to the drawing board. Should I buy one now and put some miles on it in the dry season to feel it out well in good weather or should I just wait until October/November ?


---- SORRY this post is out of place, I'm starting a new thread ----


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## Duane Behrens (Nov 8, 2013)

The thread seems odd, unless I'm missing something. Unintentional, sliding forward on the seat has happened to me many times on many bikes. The fix has always been easy and immediate; rotate the seat to a more level position by bringing the nose up and the rear of the seat down. But it looks like that was one of the things you tried, maybe?

I use a small hand level to make sure the top of the seat is level. Seems to work best. Anyway, good luck, I hope you find a good fit. DB


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