# Best Chain Lube/Cleaning Routine



## Wood Devil (Apr 30, 2011)

What do you all use? I've been using Tri-Flow for quite a while now, running it along the chain after each ride, then running the chain though the Finish Line Grunge Brush, and finally an old rag to wipe it off. Seems to do the dual job of cleaning and lubricating rather well, if not attracting a lot of dirt during those long rides. But I wonder if there is a better, more suitable lube I could be using. I hear of wax based and dry lube, teflon, and bio stuff etc.


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

I use White Lightning wax lube. It goes on wet, then the solvent evaporate leaving the wax dry. I really like it since it doesn't attract dirt or dust because it's dry. It's also self-cleaning.


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## DonDenver (May 30, 2007)

Not sure of your climate/ride conditions Wood Devil...but like Roadrunner...I use WL Wax for Denver So Metro/Boulder/Summit-Eagle county road cycling. Real simple stuff that works. Dirt (be it dirt road washboards, forest fire(s) residue etc) will literally ball up and spin off. Damn dry out here normally...only getting worse :mad2: 

With the WL Wax I run over 4k DA chains without play and the 7900 Ti cassette stay clean, quiet and perform under much daily riding stress w/o wear. I do clean occasionally with an Auto MAF (mass air flow) spray cleaner...and just shake off cassette wheel and spin off chain with rag. In the shoulder season up in the mountains (for example riding Montezuma and being caught in a snow storm) I will use WL Epic (WL Wet I don't care for). Good luck & ride clean.


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Wood Devil, here you go...btw, White Lightning do make a Epic and Wet lube beside Clean.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Here we go again. Someone is sure to recomend one of those sh!ttie chain cleaner boxes. 

Wipe it clean and lube it with whatever. It will be fine. Its a bike chain.


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## renedelbarco (Mar 28, 2010)

I used Triflow for several years. Until I found Pro Gold Pro Link lube. Leonard Zinn from Velo News highly recommends it. I have had very good results with it.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Oh is it that time of the month where we do the chain clean/lube thing?


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

I have the same routine except I use Prolink and just a rag.


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## Samadhi (Nov 1, 2011)

Wood Devil said:


> What do you all use? I've been using Tri-Flow for quite a while now, running it along the chain after each ride, then running the chain though the Finish Line Grunge Brush, and finally an old rag to wipe it off. Seems to do the dual job of cleaning and lubricating rather well, if not attracting a lot of dirt during those long rides. But I wonder if there is a better, more suitable lube I could be using. I hear of wax based and dry lube, teflon, and bio stuff etc.


I use Progold Prolink lube. It works pretty good.

I also have one of those "sh!ttie" chain cleaners that tihsepa mentioned. And just to p!ss him off I'll recommend that you get one. I use the Park Cyclone tool. It works pretty good too. I think you should get one. My rides get a bit dusty and I'm kinda anal about keeping my bike clean so I'll run my chain through the box after 50-75 miles (most people go 100 or more miles between cleanings). I use Zep orange degreaser. I'm not recommending you clean your chain with that frequency, because the Chain Box Haters will go nuts. Do what you like.


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## Samadhi (Nov 1, 2011)

Mike T. said:


> Oh is it that time of the month where we do the chain clean/lube thing?


Yep!

I think we should have a chain maintenance forum.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Standard lube*



Wood Devil said:


> What do you all use? I've been using Tri-Flow for quite a while now, running it along the chain after each ride, then running the chain though the Finish Line Grunge Brush, and finally an old rag to wipe it off. Seems to do the dual job of cleaning and lubricating rather well, if not attracting a lot of dirt during those long rides. But I wonder if there is a better, more suitable lube I could be using. I hear of wax based and dry lube, teflon, and bio stuff etc.


Obviously you will get diverse opinions. The knock on Tri-Flow is that it is a dirt magnet. It's a good lube but pickin up all that gunk probably shortens chain life. Wax lubes are OK in dry/dusty environments but if you ever get caught in the rain, your chain will be squeaking within minutes, and that is BAD. ProLink/home brew get lots of good reviews.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS. 
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.


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## Doolab (Feb 13, 2008)

There are many different ways to get your chain cleaned/lubed. However, you get to decide which procedure is best for you. :idea:

I ride on the beach almost exclusively, so the conditions that my drivetrain sees are extremely harsh, like sand, moisture, salt, ocean mist and morning fog, etc...

Over the years, I've experimented extensively and think I have the best combination of clean chain and effective lube suitable for the harsh environment that my bikes see.

Here's my chain cleaning routine that I do whenever I clean my bike:
I pop off the Wipperman Connex quick link and drop my chain in a jar full of OMS, then close the lid and dip the jar in an ultrasonic machine filled with heated water. After 5 minutes I remove the jar from the ultrasonic machine and pull the chain out then hang it to dry for 5-10 minutes. 

After it dries, I drop the chain in another jar with my own home brew lube consisting of Mobil 1 Synthetic grease diluted with OMS to have a viscous consistency like gravy. 

Then I close the lube jar lid and dip it in the heated ultrasonic machine for 2-3 minutes to really stirr things up and get the chain thoroughly lubed inside and out.

Afterwards, I pull the chain out & hang it for another 5-10 minutes to dry then quickly wipe it down with a rag and reinstall it on the bike that I washed during that time.

The chain is then sparkling clean on the outside, and thoroughly lubed where it needs to be on the rollers/pins. :thumbsup:

I usually go 3-4 weeks between bike & chain cleanings which translates to around 500 miles between cleanings. And by that time, the chain is still quiet and relatively clean compared to my friend's chain which turns into a gunk magnet in the same time period. He uses gear lube oil which is very messy.

This grease I use is an automotive wheel bearing grease with excellent water washout protection as well as rust and corrosion protection, which is exactly what I look for to combat the harsh beach riding conditions my bikes see.

Here's some info on Mobil 1 Synthetic grease specification and uses:
Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

Chain-L.

Remove chain
Clean chain
Dry chain
Lube chain
Bake chain in a toaster oven
Cool chain
Replace chain on bike
Wipe side plates of chain

Profit.


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## RJP Diver (Jul 2, 2010)

robdamanii said:


> Chain-L.
> 
> Remove chain
> Clean chain
> ...


At what point during the process are the mystical incantations recited?


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

RJP Diver said:


> At what point during the process are the mystical incantations recited?


I think at the end. He just misspelled prophet.


Anyway, I like pro link because it's easy to clean off the when it gets gunked up and the less time I spend cleaning chains the better.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

Jay Strongbow said:


> I think at the end. He just misspelled prophet.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I like pro link because it's easy to clean off the when it gets gunked up and the less time I spend cleaning chains the better.


That's the beauty of sticking it in the toaster oven: the chain literally suck the lube into the rollers and all you need is a 2 minute wipe down every couple hundred miles.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Doolab said:


> There are many different ways to get your chain cleaned/lubed. However, you get to decide which procedure is best for you. :idea:
> 
> I ride on the beach almost exclusively, so the conditions that my drivetrain sees are extremely harsh, like sand, moisture, salt, ocean mist and morning fog, etc...
> 
> ...


Ultrasonic machine? Can you elaborate? Also, can you share more detailed info on the grease:mineral spirits ratio please?


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

That's just way too much work. I'll stick with the White Lightning since it's self cleaning and use my free time to ride.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> That's just way too much work. I'll stick with the White Lightning since it's self cleaning and use my free time to ride.


It takes about 15 minutes.

Every 1000 miles or so. That's the beauty of Chain-L.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

RJP Diver said:


> At what point during the process are the mystical incantations recited?


None are needed, we do this for you during production.


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## tigeo (Jun 6, 2010)

White Lightning.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

The back of the White Lightening pictured above says it all. There is no "best" lube for every rider and purpose. The very properties that make something a better or longer lasting lubricant tend to make it dirtier. What helps keep it clean in the dry offers little protection in the wet. It's always a matter of trade offs. 

The best chain lube for one person may be different than the best chain lube for another. The object is to find the one that does the *best job balancing the more beneficial properties, with the least drawbacks for your particular conditions*.

That said, there are many products, and everyone has his favorite (or otherwise, he'd have switched by now). Instead of endlessly debating it on threads like these, I suggest that folks look at the lube reviews sections  here on RBR and the sister site, mtbr, sort by rating, and read the reviews of a few top rated products. Give extra weight to reviews describing riding conditions similar to yours, then throw caution to the wind, blow the big bucks and try one or more until you find the one you like best.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Just wiped my chain with triflow and applied Chain-L. I have 3500 miles on this KMC SL right now. This is its 4th application of lube. It is showing .052" of elongation.


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## Doolab (Feb 13, 2008)

Cyclin Dan said:


> Ultrasonic machine? Can you elaborate? Also, can you share more detailed info on the grease:mineral spirits ratio please?


I bought this one from Harbor Freight Tools when it went on sale for about $50, and it's been working really well for me.

You can also go to ebay and search for "ultrasonic cleaner" and find machines from crappy $20 ones (don't bother with those) to overkill ones selling for several hundred $ or more. One feature to look for when shopping for one is the ability to heat the liquid in the tub.

As for the grease to OMS mixture, I don't have an exact ratio, but I'd say it's probably 1 part grease to ~4 parts OMS, and stir them vigorously to get the thick gravy mixture I mentioned before. 

You'll be able to dial in the mixture to your preference, so if you like your brew to be on the thick & pasty side or maybe more on the liquid/runny side, you can add whichever part to get the brew however you prefer it.

But to make it easy to get started, get a medium/large glass jar (avoid plastic jars), and fill it with OMS to the level you think is good (I start at 1/3 fill), then add grease and start mixing. I recommend using some kind of a mixer to help speed things up. Maybe put a mixing bit on a drill to help stir the mix quickly while adjusting grease amount to your liking.

I'd say about ~2 large tablespoons worth of grease with OMS mixed in will give you enough home brew lube mix in a medium jar to last a couple of years at least. Just remember to keep your jar lid closed whenever you're done using it and it should last a while.

One last note, my ultrasonic cleaner machine only gets filled with water, while all my cleaning and lubing concoctions remain in their respective closed jars and those get submerged in the ultrasonic machine's heated water tub. This way everything remains separate and reusable and the machine hardly needs any cleaning after every use.

Hope that helps...


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

tihsepa said:


> It is showing .052" of elongation.


That's quite a bit. Hopefully your cassette isn't shot (new chain skips/jumps). I replace em at 1/32" of elongation to help preserve the cassette and rings. 

Current chain (Shimano DA) has ~2300 miles and shows ~0.020" of elongation which is surprisingly small, IMO.


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## CannondaleRushSynapse (Jun 1, 2012)

i'm thinking of mixing prolink, T-9 and WL.


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## new2rd (Aug 8, 2010)

WAY too much thought going into this. Just wipe your chain down with an old bath towel or hand towel and put some type of already mixed chain lube on it. Depending on riding conditions and lube, this might need to be done every 200 miles or every 500 miles. Wipe off excess and after you ride.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

looigi said:


> That's quite a bit. Hopefully your cassette isn't shot (new chain skips/jumps). I replace em at 1/32" of elongation to help preserve the cassette and rings.
> 
> Current chain (Shimano DA) has ~2300 miles and shows ~0.020" of elongation which is surprisingly small, IMO.


1/16th, or .0625 is about the limit for no damage. At 0.05 hes not going to wear out the cassette. Even at 1/8th (.125) cassette damage isnt guaranteed, but likely.


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## 0.2HP (Jul 13, 2011)

[email protected]: Johns Hopkins University News Releases

Quoted from the above:

The Johns Hopkins engineers made another interesting discovery when they looked at the role of lubricants. The team purchased three popular products used to "grease" a bicycle chain: a wax-based lubricant, a synthetic oil and a "dry" lithium-based spray lubricant. In lab tests comparing the three products, there was no significant difference in energy efficiency. "Then we removed any lubricant from the chain and ran the test again," Spicer recalls. "We were surprised to find that the efficiency was essentially the same as when it was lubricated."

The researcher speculates that a bicycle lubricant does not play a critical role under clean lab conditions, using a brand new chain. But it may contribute to energy efficiency in the rugged outdoors. "The role of the lubricant, as far as we can tell, is to take up space so that dirt doesn't get into the chain," Spicer says. "The lubricant is essentially a clean substance that fills up the spaces so that dirt doesn't get into the critical portions of the chain where the parts are very tightly meshed. But in lab conditions, where there is no dirt, it makes no difference. On the road, we believe the lubricant mostly assumes the role of keeping out dirt, which could very well affect friction in the drive train."


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## royta (May 24, 2008)

Best cleaning routine? Remove and coil up chain. Set in the bottom of a #10 tin can. Pour enough mineral spirits in can to cover coiled chain 1/2". Let soak for 20 or so minutes and then swirl can around. Remove chain and spray off with automotive brake cleaner (Brakleen). Hang to dry. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes because the brake cleaner evaporates quickly. There...super clean. I then install on bike and lube with one drop of T-9 Boeshield per link. Backpedal chain through a rag. Let sit overnight. Backpedal through rag again in morning and go ride.


Between cleanings, and when I feel chain is too dry, I'll backpedal through a rag, put one drop lube on per link, and then backpedal through the rag again. Then let sit overnight.


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## Joel Christopher (Feb 25, 2013)

White lightening Clean Ride Wax Lube has worked the best for me. As long as you don't get caught in the rain, it keeps your chain very clean, even in the dirtiest of conditions. If you _do_ get caught in the rain, just dry your chain and reapply lube when you get home. I can go for 300+ miles with a clean and quiet chain on one application. When I do clean the chain, I: 
1. apply degreaser and brush dirt out of chain
2. Wipe down chain
3. Pull back wheel off and run rag between cassette cogs
4. wipe down chain rings
5. wipe down rear deraileur cogs
6. apple wax lube and wipe excess

I've never had much luck with wet lubes, they get dirty so fast. If I was riding in the rain multiple times per week, I might consider a wet lube, but even here in Florida where it rains often, I still prefer "Clean Ride" wax lube. 

Hope that helps


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## Andrew L (Apr 20, 2011)

Velo had an independent lab run tests on different lubes. I switched from Prolink to Rock N Roll Gold based on the findings. I found this to be a very informative article.

View attachment 276360

View attachment 276361

View attachment 276362


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## Dave Cutter (Sep 26, 2012)

Andrew L said:


> .... I switched from Prolink to Rock N Roll Gold based on the findings. I found this to be a very informative article.


I have also been using Prolink. I might look at Rock N Roll Gold next time I buy oil. 

My process involves actually scrubbing/washing/soap and water cleaning my chain (and entire bicycle) regularly. I lightly spray the greasy/gunky parts with simple green before washing. I use dish soap and warm water in a bucket to clean the bicycle... then the chain and gunky parts.

I use a light spray from a garden hose (and never directly spray greased parts) to fully rinse off any soapy residue. I let everything completely dry (I sometimes spray off excess water with compressed air) before lubing. I like to let the oil remain on the chain till the next day/ride before wiping off the excess oil.

I know there is a lot of opposition to soap and water... but IMHO it's stood the test of time. I've never seen any corrosion caused by a proper washing and oiling.


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

Probably mentioned before, but I just discovered a pretty effective method of cleaning the chain while keeping the mess down.

Ive been using finishline's multi degreaser (not the spray bottle stuff) and their chain cleaning tool to clean the chains on my bike for a while. The degrease and the tool does a decent job of cleaning the chain, but I often find myself repeating the cleaning process 2-3 times with fresh degreaser to get the chain clean. This process is very messy and my chain will be dripping black liquid all over the crank and the rear derailer once the cleaning is complete. It also takes a while before the degreaser dries completely.

I have a can of brake cleaner lying around and thought i should give it a try. The spray action paired with the cleaning agent in the brake cleaner literally blasts off any dirt and dust and grease from the chain. It was able to turn my black chain back to its original silver color. The same goes for the rear cassette. I took off my rear wheel and carefully only sprayed the cassette and it took off all the black grease leaving a shiny metal surface. No brushing no scrubbing. Of course I took every precaution in protecting the rest of the bike and made sure anything but the chain is only exposed to the brake cleaner. Newpaper and cardboard were used to shield off areas I dont want to spray to go.

Brake cleaner also cost a fraction of the price compared to bike specific stuff, but does smell quite a bit and probably not good for the trees and birds. I'll probably get a can of the Finishline's Multi Degrease in spray so its a little easier on the environment.


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## Ande Smelser (Mar 26, 2013)

Be very careful with brake cleaner. It will damage any plastic that it comes in contact with. I don't know if today's chains have anything other than metal for the pins or links but it will be ruined if there is. Also, it will remove all oils from the metals itself and can lead to rust if appropriate measures are not taken to re-oil those areas. I personally would not use brake cleaner on a bike for these reasons. It's just too strong.

FWIW, I use DuPont branded lubes that can be found at Lowes. It's usually a little cheaper than Finish Line or White Lightning by a $1 or 2. There is Teflon in it (since they pioneered it) and there is a wax type and a dry type general lube. Unless you ride in wet conditions this is pretty good and keeps my drivetrain quiet for a couple hundred miles.


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## disaster999 (Jan 28, 2013)

I've heard all about brake cleaner eating plastic and such. Bike chains only contains metal parts so no need to worry about any o-rings. 

It shouldnt be a problem if you take caution when you're cleaning and dont spray anything but the chain.


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## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

Buy non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Never hurt any of my pistols.


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## Ande Smelser (Mar 26, 2013)

Use the stuff if you like. But I personally have a shotgun with a camo dipped finish where NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner removed the finish and a magazine baseplate that has some scars from using the same. It is a very aggressive degreaser and cleaner and is meant for automobiles. Use whatever you want to use, I was simply stating that from experience you might just be careful.


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## tincaman (Apr 13, 2012)

"Mickle" method for cleaning and,
Chainsaw lube for general lubing


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System

There is simply no other way.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

tihsepa said:


> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System
> 
> There is simply no other way.


I do that before every ride.


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## cmdrpiffle (Mar 28, 2006)

Best lube is Leatherback sea turtle grease. Not legal in all countries, but easily available on the interwebs. Cleaning should be every July even if it doesn't need it.

I'm here to help


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## duffin (Jun 11, 2012)

Friction Facts

Rock and Roll Gold


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## AndreyT (Dec 1, 2011)

As usual, the responses in the thread are a wild mix of "minor" chain maintenance methods (like "just wipe and lube it") and "major" chain maintenance methods (like chain cleaning boxes and "remove it and drop it in the can of oil"). No one seems to acknowledge the simple and obvious fact that the two are substantially different and normally involve different procedures.

Everyone is so eager to talk, that no one cares to find out which one the OP's question is supposed to be about, or whether the OP does both or only the "minor" one.


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## tigeo (Jun 6, 2010)

I know this is an old thread. I have been using Dumonde Tech Lite for the last year and love it. Lasts a long time for me...nearly 500 miles and still going on my road bike...works well on my mountainbike. Not sure about the person above about it not lasting long...it has very specific instructions that need to be followed. Thinking of trying Rock n' Roll next but it's a wax-based lube I believe which in my experience don't last that long but keep the chair very clean.


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## Hiro11 (Dec 18, 2010)

I clean the chain every time before I lube it. I usually wash my bike at the same time as well. I can do all of this in about fifteen minutes and I do it every ~500 miles. It's a bit of a messy process, so I do it outside.

Clean:
1. Remove rear wheel, put in chain keeper (I have a cheap-o Nashbar one that works fine), put on repair stand.
2. Put some odorless mineral spirits in a can. "Paint" the entire drivetrain (chain, FD, RD, cranks, rear cassette) repeatedly with a thick paintbrush liberally soaking in mineral spirits. Really wet it down. This kind of loosens all of the dirt / Al dust / old lube. 
3. Hit cassette with big gong brush dipped in soapy water. Really scrub it out, working against the ratchet.
4. Wipe down entire drivetrain with sponge soaked in soapy water. Run the chain backwards through the sponge folded in half. Really soak it down. 
5. Hit everything with a garden hose (grip spray nozzle) to wash off soap. Run the chain backwards as you hit it with the spray.
6. Dry everything with a rag, let it dry for a few minutes.

Lube:
1. I use Prolink Gold as I find it attracts next to no dirt, keeps everything relatively quiet and lasts a long time. It also seems to displace any remaining water.
2. I lube the chain as it goes around the top jockey of the RD. I usually lube the jockeys and derailleur pivots at the same time. No real science here, just run a fair amount of lube on everything.
3. Leave the chain wet, don't wipe off the excess. Let it dry overnight. The chain is basically dry the next day.

I've found that this is the only foolproof way to make a drivetrain absolutely spotless.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

How long does your chain last? How about the cassette?


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## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Do you measure chain stretch after each cleaning?


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Hiro11 said:


> I've found that this is the only foolproof way to make a drivetrain absolutely spotless.


P.S.: And what do you need an "absolutely spotless drivetrain" for?


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## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

A lot of motorcycle enthusiasts love a drive chain dripping with thick oil, since it's faster.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

I have been using progold prolink and had great results no matter how dirty or grimy even after 100km+ rides in wet conditions recently...

I use a baby wipe and run the chain lightly through the wipe then a drop on each link and then lightly over a clean dry rag to remove any excesss...


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## drstawl (Mar 17, 2015)

tihsepa said:


> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System
> 
> There is simply no other way.


That's an awesome Onion article.

It definitely puts into perspective the lengths people will go to avoid the mantra:

"Skip the Hype. Oil and wipe."


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