# For the millionth time...degreasing



## LeDomestique (Jan 17, 2007)

I've been using plain good'ol kerosene to degrease my chain, cassette, rings, etc. Cheap and works wonders. However:

Drawback 1: not sure if nowadays where everything is supposed to be "green" this is the best solution. 
Drawback 2: it stinks. Leaves my garage stinking to kerosene (obviously) for a week

Do you guys use anything as effective as kerosene, but without the drawbacks?

thanks 

cheers


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

there are a number of fresh-smelling 'green' degreasers out there these days


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Odorless mineral spirits (paint thinner) is a lot less stinky.


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## Kristatos (Jan 10, 2008)

I buy the massive jug of citrus degreaser at my local hardware store. Lasts me a year or so and is cheap. I think it's made from orange rind oils and is "green" in that it doesn't require any special disposal.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Not personally a fan of degreasing as a course of habit, but if you must, OMS works as well / better than kero and doesn't stink nearly so bad. Keep it in a closed container, drop chain in, give it a swish, pull it out. 

No worries about disposal: Every now and then pass it through a paper filter in a funnel to get rid of the gunk, reuse nearly indefinitely. Small amounts lost to evap and filtering, of course, but minimal. 

Simple green, etc. are especially a no, unless your aim is to destroy the chain. Their pH encourages rust, and the only practical way to ensure they are cleaned out of the small spaces of a chain are to use a solvent/oil water displacement formula. As that formula would have cleaned the chain without the risk of rust, may as well have started with that.


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## Kristatos (Jan 10, 2008)

The stuff I use is basically simple green but I rinse with water and then lube the chain - never had any rust problems that you speak of, it's easy and just goes onto the lawn or into the garden when I am done (the low pH is great for my soil)



danl1 said:


> Simple green, etc. are especially a no, unless your aim is to destroy the chain. Their pH encourages rust, and the only practical way to ensure they are cleaned out of the small spaces of a chain are to use a solvent/oil water displacement formula. As that formula would have cleaned the chain without the risk of rust, may as well have started with that.


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## waldo425 (Sep 22, 2008)

JCavilia said:


> Odorless mineral spirits (paint thinner) is a lot less stinky.


Problem with those is that the odor lets you know that the thinner is still in the air or area. A lot of painters get some kinda nasty headaches and side effects because of that.


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## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

*oderless kerosene*

I thought they made stuff like that. for lamps and such.


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## cmdrpiffle (Mar 28, 2006)

As others have said, I use SimpleGreen Concentrate. Undiluted, straight onto the part with a good brushing. Rinse well with water and lube the chain shortly afterwards.

I use White Lightening on the chain, so the alcohol dispels most of the water.


Cheers

M


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## cyclust (Sep 8, 2004)

Kristatos said:


> The stuff I use is basically simple green but I rinse with water and then lube the chain - never had any rust problems that you speak of, it's easy and just goes onto the lawn or into the garden when I am done (the low pH is great for my soil)


I know that a lot of people use this method, but I simply don't like rinsing a chain, especially one that has been degreased, with water. I've got to beleive that some of that water will work into the raoller and between the plates and it's hard to know if oiling it will get out all the water. I prefer a solvent wash. I keep and old 5 gallon pail with about 3 gal. of kerosene in it and use it for my chain bath. The dirt goes to the bottom and it's always clean up top. The original lid is a good tight seal to prevent evaporation.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. I apply it pretty heavily. The OMS will dissolve and float the dirt off the chain, then evaporate and leave the oil as a lubricant. 

I like to leave it overnight without wiping it off. I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

For whatever it's worth:

http://www.kmcchain.us/ChainGuidePDFs/ChainGuide_Maintenance.pdf


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## JimboCO (May 5, 2009)

I use white gas/Coleman fuel in an ultrasonic cleaner. Really does a good job. After drying in the sun for a bit (or better yet, burning excess off to get the chain hot) I apply Chain-L (no affiliation). Super happy with the results and I've tried them all.


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## Kristatos (Jan 10, 2008)

I agree - it's definitely not ideal but I just don't like to keep a tub/bucket of solvent hanging around in my garage. I agree that a soak in mineral spirits or similar solvents is going to be better for the chain. However, the OP asked about "green" options, and mostly I don't degrease my chain I just wipe it clean and lube it sparingly. 



cyclust said:


> I know that a lot of people use this method, but I simply don't like rinsing a chain, especially one that has been degreased, with water. I've got to beleive that some of that water will work into the raoller and between the plates and it's hard to know if oiling it will get out all the water. I prefer a solvent wash. I keep and old 5 gallon pail with about 3 gal. of kerosene in it and use it for my chain bath. The dirt goes to the bottom and it's always clean up top. The original lid is a good tight seal to prevent evaporation.


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## CHL (Jun 24, 2005)

Hi LD:

Yeah, pretty much it's Simple Green or whatever degreaser I find at the auto parts store (at Kragen's or Pepboys, the only thing I see are "biodegadable/eco" friendly stuff - at least from the manufacturer's label & claims). If I'm really lazy I will use Brake/Parts wash, but that isn't the most "eco" friendly stuff. Works great though.

CHL


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*not very safe...*

Mineral spirits would be far less flammable and do just as good a job. Once mixed with some oil, mineral spirits will not burn if you toss a match in it, but camp stove fuel will.

I use camp stove fuel (naptha) in my home brew mix. It will burn if lit with a match.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Any petroleum product is bad for the environment and emits some fumes that aren't good for you. 

Go to Home Depot and get a gallon of Zep Cirtrus degreaser. Use it straight, right out of the bottle. It works well and is fairly cheap.


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## strathconaman (Jul 3, 2003)

Varsol: two containers

Container 1: Storage

Container 2: Cleaning

Every week take chain off bike. Drop into cleaning container. Carefully pour in varsol from storage container while being careful not to disturb gunk settled on bottom. Swish chain. Remove chain and wipe with rag. Check chain for wear. Put back on bike and lube. Wipe of excess lube.

Pour varsol back into storage container. During the week, all the crap it took off the chain will settle to bottom. At end of season dispose of varsol and accumulated crap at chemical disposal site (your municipality may varry).

I can get through an entire season on 1L of varsol. In comparison, citrus degreasers are wasteful and harmful to the environment.


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## BikeFixer (May 19, 2009)

pmf said:


> Any petroleum product is bad for the environment and emits some fumes that aren't good for you.
> 
> Go to Home Depot and get a gallon of Zep Cirtrus degreaser. Use it straight, right out of the bottle. It works well and is fairly cheap.



+ 1
It's cheap relatively non toxic and works good. Simple Green is pretty good too


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

JimboCO said:


> I use white gas/Coleman fuel in an ultrasonic cleaner. Really does a good job. After drying in the sun for a bit (or better yet, burning excess off to get the chain hot) I apply Chain-L (no affiliation). Super happy with the results and I've tried them all.


Jimbo,

Gasoline is a strong effective solvent, and safe enough if used outdoors, and untrasonic cleaners do a great job of accelerating the cleaning action, but the two should never be used together.

One thing ultrasonic cleaners do is speed evaporation of the liquids used - that's how ultrasonic humidifiers work - so you increasing gasoline's already high volitility making a fire hazard infinitely worse. 

That's why your ultrasonic cleaner came with a clear warning not to use it with flammable liquids. I know that nowadays there are so many warnings on products that we tend to dismiss them as lawyer speak, but this one was for real.

BTW- thanks for the Chain-L endorsement. We don't have millions of customers, so I need you to live longer.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

pmf said:


> Any petroleum product is bad for the environment and emits some fumes that aren't good for you.
> 
> Go to Home Depot and get a gallon of Zep Cirtrus degreaser. Use it straight, right out of the bottle. It works well and is fairly cheap.


A gross oversimplification. Used intelligently - and really in no different manner than a nominally safer product would direct - fumes aren't a concern. 

Environmental concerns are valid, but method of use matters greatly. Used properly, very little solvent escapes into the environment, except very slowly through evaporation. Assuming sealed containers, that's as close to zero as needs to be considered.

As compared to a 'relatively' benign product that enters the groundwater by the quarts and gallons, responsible use of a 'worse' product might well be the better choice. Not saying that you are wrong, just that it's not black and white.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

cyclust said:


> , but I simply don't like rinsing a chain, especially one that has been degreased, with water. I've got to beleive that some of that water will work into the raoller and between the plates and it's hard to know if oiling it will get out all the water.


I agree, and that's why I add one step in the process. I soak my chain in mineral spirits to get the gunk off, just dropping it into a small plastic container to swish and shake the chain around. Then I cut the top off the bottle and dig the chain out. I rinse the chain under a water stream to get the nasty stuff off the chain. 

Then you do have the problem of water in the nooks and crannies and you have to get this out. I then place the chain on a cookie sheet covered with foil, and place in a 200 degree oven for 20 minutes or so. The water evaporates out - perfectly clean and dry chain. Expect some strange looks and comments from anyone living with you.


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## zriggle (Apr 16, 2008)

FBinNY said:


> BTW- thanks for the Chain-L endorsement. We don't have millions of customers, so I need you to live longer.


How do I get my LBS to sell Chain-L?

They offer a variety of Phil Wood greases, lubes, etc., so I think they'd enjoy the concept of Chain-L.


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## JimP (Dec 18, 2001)

Naptha (lighter fluid) will degrease better than other petroleum based solvents and leaves no residue. I purchase naptha by the gallon at Lowes.


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## StillRiding (Sep 16, 2006)

If you own a cat, you have no problems. The big plastic bucket of kitty litter comes with a nice tight lid. Fill the bucket 1/4 full of the solvent of your choice and remember to keep the lid closed. Be smart. No smoking, no sparks if you use a highly volatile solvent.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Out of curiosity, would an oil-based soap work for maintenance cleaning? I'm thinking something like Murphy's Oil Soap followed by a water displacer and then lubed. Yay, Nay?


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## E 12 (Jul 13, 2008)

I use this stuff called "Engine Bright" - comes in an orange can. It's basically an environmentally safe citrus degreaser...and likely can be had in any auto parts store/automotive section at Wally World, etc. For a while, I was paying some 12-odd dollars for the same thing made by Finish Line (made FOR bikes, of course). This stuff is exactly the same, and like 3 bucks a can. For serious build-up, I simply spray on my chain, cassette, and crankset, wait a few minutes, and then hose off. Everything looks brand new when done.

Otherwise, if you simply use a lube/cleaner such as Rock n Roll or Prolink, degreasing will never become necessary. It works that good. :thumbsup:


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## Guest (Mar 11, 2010)

Orange Peelz. If you clean often enough, it will be strong enough.

DM


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I use WD-40 and Chain-L on my chain.

If I need to soak and brush something, I use Brake Parts Cleaner. I got a gallon from PepBoys and pour into a bowl, soak and scrub the part and pour dirty cleaner back into jug. The dirt settles to bottom and I reuse again and again.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

*Chain-l Lube*



zriggle said:


> How do I get my LBS to sell Chain-L?
> 
> They offer a variety of Phil Wood greases, lubes, etc., so I think they'd enjoy the concept of Chain-L.


I love Chain-L and it is all I use.
Some online shops carry it....BEN'S CYCLERY
LBS are a tough sell. I took the sample bottles to several shops and told them how much I liked it, but it is hard to compete with the established brands.
Chain-L is the best lube I have ever used, and I have a shelf full of others I have tried and NO comparison.
I also wish my LBS carried it.
Truoble is, it lasts so long that probably not profitable for most LBS. 

John


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## cmdrpiffle (Mar 28, 2006)

I just buy new parts whenever they get dirty/greasy


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