# Vintage TREK owners out there?



## alaris

Hi

After quite some time out of the sport, I am slowly but surely getting back into it. I still have my bike I enjoyed so much - an ecru with blue stickers TREK 560-EX PRO. It is virtually as it came out of the factory back in 1987 except for the stem and handlebars. Those are both Modolo. The gearset is still the original 6 speed Shimano 600 SIS with double Biopace chainrings and shifters on the downtube. I need to get a new chain and replace all cables but other than that the bike is in mint condition.

I still have the original wheels - they are quite heavy. I would really like to get a nicer set of wheels (perhaps a set of Mavic Ksyriums). Here is my problem: with all the 9 and 10 speed cassettes out there what type of wheelset can I buy that would work with the 6 speed cassette? I've read some posts that talk about the width of my frameset vs newer ones. I am sure this will have something to do with newer wheels and hopefully somebody can give me some insight into this...

Suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!


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## rcnute

Neat bike. Rather than get modern wheels with 130mm spacing I'd just replace the rims. But if you want to get modern wheels, you can have the rear triangle spread, easy.

Check out the vintagetrek.com site too.


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## martinrjensen

*rear spread*

As the other poster mentioned you can have your frame cold set to 130mm spacing easily. In addition, if you are not sure, it doesn't take too much to just jam in a 130mm wide rear hub to see if you like it. In addition, You current wheels may be 27 inch. If they are, in most cases you will still be able to put in the more modern 700c wheels (with a brake pad adjustment). If you have another newer bike (or borrow ome from a friend) you can stick those in just to test the fit. Did your old bike have friction shifters? If so it will be quite easy to change to a wheel that has more gears on it than your original one. I don't know if you could go to 10, but I think you could take most Shimano wheels (modern design with a uniglide/hyperglide freehub) and put an 8 speed cassette on it in place of a 10 speed. You mentioned that you were going to get a new chain right? Note this is pretty much what I did with my 78 trek TX900 bike. I went from a 6 speed on a freewheel to a 8 speed cassette on a freehub(uniglide/hyperglide compatible) with no issues other than having to move my brake pads down a bit. This is what you want to check out. I hav not gone to the trouble of coldsetting my frame from 126mm to 130mm yet. It's just not too difficult to put the wheel in place. You just spread it with your fingers when you place the wheel in, it's only a little bit that is necessary.


alaris said:


> Hi
> 
> After quite some time out of the sport, I am slowly but surely getting back into it. I still have my bike I enjoyed so much - an ecru with blue stickers TREK 560-EX PRO. It is virtually as it came out of the factory back in 1987 except for the stem and handlebars. Those are both Modolo. The gearset is still the original 6 speed Shimano 600 SIS with double Biopace chainrings and shifters on the downtube. I need to get a new chain and replace all cables but other than that the bike is in mint condition.
> 
> I still have the original wheels - they are quite heavy. I would really like to get a nicer set of wheels (perhaps a set of Mavic Ksyriums). Here is my problem: with all the 9 and 10 speed cassettes out there what type of wheelset can I buy that would work with the 6 speed cassette? I've read some posts that talk about the width of my frameset vs newer ones. I am sure this will have something to do with newer wheels and hopefully somebody can give me some insight into this...
> 
> Suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


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## rcnute

For what it's worth, I'd stick with traditional wheels. Ksryiums look cool but are a pain if you break a spoke.

And ditch the Biopace chainrings!


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## alaris

rcnute said:


> And ditch the Biopace chainrings!


LOL! 

Thank you both for the replies. I really appreciate them. So, a picture is worth a thousand words. This is what my ride looks like:

The pedals are missing - I have a set of LOOK Shimano DuraAce from '87 that I have currently on loan to one of my other bikes. They will be reunited soon.










You can see the Biopace chainrings here:



















Here is a closeup of the wheels. They are 700c - on the sticker on the right.










Six speed.. I have an extra one with a more tight set of cogs - maybe once I get my legs back I might change it!!










Oh yes, that is my Zefal frame pump - it still works!



















Reynols 531...










I have a set of Ksyrium Elites and tried the front one on the TREK. It fits perfectly, however I did not try the rear. The thought of spreading the frame (even if it is only 4mm) troubles me. 

Question: is there a place that could build me a set of new wheels? I agree the Ksyriums are a pain to fix if need be, but for "originality" sakes, do you have any suggestions on a set of wheels that would work with my frameset?

Sorry for all the noob questions but I thought I'd pick your brains...

thanks!


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## martinrjensen

*you wheels*

Your wheels look nice . I like the ferrules on the spoke holes. I think it's good reinforcement on the rim, I bet they are pretty strong. If you want a different wheel for the looks, I am going to have to assume you want to go with a polished aluminum wheel right? I don't think that the Kyserium are like that. Kyseriums, the ones I'm fiamiliar with are painted black and the overall look would be no different from what you have now. Also for most riding you wouldn't notice the difference, really. Tires maike a noticable difference in the ride quality but they wouldnt look any different.Unless you wint to tubulars, which again, are different tires, I don't think you would feel much difference. Please not I am not just spouting this off. i did pretty much the same thing. I hade super heavy 27in clincher rims on a bike. i swaped them out (temporarily) with one of my go-fast bikes and really, once I got going, I didn't notice any difference. Seeing as you have 700c wheels already I probably wouldn't worry about spreading the frame right now. But.....if you did go with a new set of wheels I would get one with Freehubs and put an 8 speed cassette on it, add a couple gears and it will shift a little smoother as your gears can be closer together. You might be able to go with 9 speed or maybe a 10 speed pretty easily also as long as you swapped out the chain. I know if you stick with the friction shifter you wouldn't have to change that if you did go to a different number of gears. That's the nice thing about old bikes. it's easy to swap things out. hey, are those Campy brake calipers? (I like your bike BTW. I also like the wheels)


alaris said:


> LOL!
> 
> Thank you both for the replies. I really appreciate them. So, a picture is worth a thousand words. This is what my ride looks like:
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> The pedals are missing - I have a set of LOOK Shimano DuraAce from '87 that I have currently on loan to one of my other bikes. They will be reunited soon.
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> Here is a closeup of the wheels. They are 700c - on the sticker on the right.
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> Six speed cassette. This one is self contained. It does not come apart. I have an extra one with a more tight set of cogs - maybe once I get my legs back I might change it!!
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> Oh yes, that is my Zefal frame pump - it still works!
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> Reynols 531...
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> I have a set of Ksyrium Elites and tried the front one on the TREK. It fits perfectly, however I did not try the rear. The thought of spreading the frame (even if it is only 4mm) troubles me.
> 
> Question: is there a place that could build me a set of new wheels? I agree the Ksyriums are a pain to fix if need be, but for "originality" sakes, do you have any suggestions on a set of wheels that would work with my frameset?
> 
> Sorry for all the noob questions but I thought I'd pick your brains...
> 
> thanks!


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## rcnute

That bike is awesome. Keep it like it is. And then buy a second one!


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## alaris

rcnute said:


> That bike is awesome. Keep it like it is. And then buy a second one!


Well! Thanks guys! This is great news... The wheels are true and have never been abused. I guess I should stop *****ing, appreciate what I have and just spruce it up (new cables, tires, tubes) then go out and ride the thing. 

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys! Really appreciate them... :thumbsup:

Oh and no, those are not Campy calipers. I could only wish. The whole bike is Shimano 600 SIS. According to what I read on Vintage Trek this bike was made for only 1 year. This one - in ecru (white) - was the 560-EX-PRO and was the top of the line bike for that year. When I bought it I did not know that, just that it was the one with the 'click' shifters.


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## Fredrico

*Go with it.*

Good advice above.

As an old fart who's still riding two bikes that are older than your Trek, I can affirm that what you have is as good if not better than what you could "upgrade" to. Spreading the dropouts to accomodate 130mm rear axles is a mistake: you'd then want to add 9 or 10 speed shifters to work the wider casette, and you'd be buying very little improvement over what you have. Those 32 spoked rims with eyelets will go easily as well as 90% of the boutique wheels made today. For strength and reliability you can't beat 32 spoked wheels (except with 36 spoked wheels!). The slight weight penalty is felt only on climbs, a minor compromise easily overcome on a stiff Reynolds 531 frame and strong legs.

That chainring bolt circle accepts round chainrings for sure. Biopace chainrings were a bad joke. And the gel on that saddle is probably turned to stone by now. Those are the only caveats. Reynolds 531 is top of the line stuff, unsurpassed by its lighter successors. Ride the heck out of it, and when you get tired of hunting out 6 speed casettes and spring for a modern roadbike, keep it as a worthy beater.


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## alaris

Fredrico said:


> That chainring bolt circle accepts round chainrings for sure. Biopace chainrings were a bad joke. And the gel on that saddle is probably turned to stone by now.


Thanks Fredrico. 

Your comment about the round chainrings: from what I can tell, this is a 130mm size. I've been reading and there are indeed options available in that size with round chainrings as opposed to the Biopace.

I also appreciate the comments on the wheels. Looks like we should leave well enough alone then. The saddle I agree with! LOL! That gel is indeed pretty 'solid' by now... :wink:


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## Reynolds531

I'll add a vote for keeping the bike original. You should clean and repack all of the bearings. Grease can turn to sticky goo after all of those years. Once that bike is cleaned, re-lubed and adjusted it will be as smooth as anything you can buy now, 99% as efficient, and retro-cool.


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## Richard

Reynolds531 said:


> I'll add a vote for keeping the bike original. You should clean and repack all of the bearings. Grease can turn to sticky goo after all of those years. Once that bike is cleaned, re-lubed and adjusted it will be as smooth as anything you can buy now, 99% as efficient, and retro-cool.


Count me in also. Other than relegating the chainrings (and possibly the saddle) to the dustbin, just overhaul it and ride it.

I'm a huge fan of Reynolds 531 tubed bikes (got two) and Trek's silver brazed workmanship in that era was as good as anything out there.:thumbsup:


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## fastfullback

I'll be the voice of dissent. I had a yellow and white 560 with that wheelset. rcnute got the bike much later, but never got to enjoy the wheels. I rode the snot out of those wheels. Then I upgraded to 14-speed: Ultegra hubs, double-butted spokes, and Open 4 CD rims. It was a revelation. Those wheels are good for period correctness but a new set of handbuilts will be much better for riding. Keep them--on a hook.


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## rcnute

fastfullback said:


> I'll be the voice of dissent. I had a yellow and white 560 with that wheelset. rcnute got the bike much later, but never got to enjoy the wheels. I rode the snot out of those wheels. Then I upgraded to 14-speed: Ultegra hubs, double-butted spokes, and Open 4 CD rims. It was a revelation. Those wheels are good for period correctness but a new set of handbuilts will be much better for riding. Keep them--on a hook.


I loved that bike!


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## fastfullback

rcnute said:


> I loved that bike!


So did I. alaris, you have a nice ride here... based on my experience the wheels and the chainrings are the only things you really need to change, outside of your contact points of course.


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## alaris

Thanks guys. I'll see about getting a new set of chainrings - round ones this time. I'll keep the Biopace just for originality's sake stashed in a box.

I have one more question for you all: It was commented in one of the above replies to check the BB bearing and re-grease. I'd like to take a stab at doing this, but don't have the correct tool(s) to take the BB apart. I've checked out the Park Tool website and so far I have found that I will need this:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-7

That should help me get the cranks out. However, I am confused about the tool(s) to take the BB apart. I found this one: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=HCW-5 however that only will take of care of one side. Correct? 

The other side looks like the tool needs to be shaped with a slot instead. Is that what this tool is for: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=HCW-4 ?

Am I on the right path with these tools? Thanks!


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## Fredrico

*Yes.*



alaris said:


> Am I on the right path with these tools?


The new Park crank puller pictured, is supposed to fit either square tapered or splined. Previously, the square tapered one had a smaller diameter pusher on the end of the bolt, to get past the flats on the cranks.

The tool with the claw on one end will unscrew the lockring on the left side. If the three bumps on the other end won''t line up, you can use the claw. The tool with the two pins will then unscrew the adjustable cup, and you can then pull out the axle and grease up the bearings.

The main reason for unscrewing the fixed cup on the right side, is to liberally grease the threads, so when it finally wears out, you'll be able to get it off. You could just check tightness and leave it alone. Chances are, it will be very hard to unscrew. Its reverse threaded, so unscrews CLOCKWISE, not counter clockwise. I've had to build up a big screw with fender washers and nuts on either end, to put through the bb shell and hold the remover tool firmly in place, while struggling to free up the fixed cup. The two flats are so skinny and the cup is on so tight, it's very difficult to keep the tool in place by hand.

Those old cup and cone bbs were overbuilt, so chances are you won't have to replace anything--unless the races are pitted, or the balls are cracked, of course. This was frequently a result of too much "pre-loading" when last installed. Good luck with it.


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## alaris

Thank you very much! This is what I needed to find out. I appreciate the help.


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## Bikedued

NICE bike!! It's also in much better condition than a lot of vintage Treks out there. It seems most were bought to be ridden rather than looked at, at least in my experience. I have a 1983 grey 560 that I dearly love. It's been converted to 7 speed with indexed 7 speed bar end shifters. It's Reynolds 501, which Trek only used for a short time. 1-2 years maybe? I also have an 84 830 in that weird strawberry red color. Old Treks rule! 


Nothing wrong with Biopace. Unless you have a problem with your knees not liking them, I wouldn't worry about changing them unless they're worn out? I have them on many of my vintage bikes, and actually like them. The pedal effort seems more even all the way around the stroke, or lets off pressure slightly where your knee would be under stress.,,,,BD


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## oldroads

There's a great Vintage Trek website ya know:

http://www.vintage-trek.com/


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## clintbradford

I am enjoying resurrecting my 1978 Trex TX500 Ishiwata 022 touring frameset / bike. Just finished removing all parts tonight to get to the frame - and the dark blue DuPont Imron sure kept its shine all these years out in the barn! I was afraid I'd have to refinish it - but the dingy, dullness came right off with hand-applied hot, soapy sponge.

Phil Wood CHP pedals ... Phil Wood bottom bracket ... sealed headset, too. Making this refurb way too easy. Modolo Pro blue brakeset, though - will a simply "re-finishing" of the brake pads' surfaces make them useable? Or should I just go for an aftermarket new brake pad set?


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## bluesjr

Glad I found this thread, as I was going to start one with the same question. 

I've got a very similar 1986 or '87 Trek 560 Pro (without the EX), and love it. Last year I started riding again seriously and replaced the crank with a SRAM Rival compact, which I really enjoy on the foothills around here. This year I put on carbon bars (sensitive hands), carbon seatpost and improved campy brakes (all at too-good-to-pass-up prices). And this xmas, added the brooks saddle (which I just posted in the Christmas thread). I've got the fit dialed in and the bike feels fantastic for a wide variety of riding situations. 

But I had been ruminating about replacing those exact wheels. The main dilemma was the dropout width and then switching over to the modern freehub system and 10 speeds, requiring new shifters, derailleur, etc. And I've got a new carbon bike already setup that way for serious riding.

For now, I think I'll stay with the old wheels. But when/if I ever wear out those Matrix CD4 tires, I'll buy some new/decent rubber. I've still got the originals because I replaced them with Turbos when I first got the bike, and hung them up in the garage years ago. They went back on this year.


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## FatTireFred

is that the original fork?


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## alaris

+1 on the fork. What type of fork is that? 

Did you change the fork in order to be able to run a different stem for the carbon handlebar? Also, what type of headset are you running. Very interesting changes you have made there.

Followup on the original posting I made:

Last week I took some time to take the bike completely apart. I am glad I did that because the headset bearings were shot. Th BB came apart also and while it looked good and no damage was found, I figured I'd change the ball bearings. I have also taken apart the bearings on the wheels. The races look good so I will be putting some new grade 25 ball bearings back in.

While I was at it, I found an original 175mm crankset that fits the square taper BB. Got it in today's mail and it is nice! I'll be posting some pics of the completed bike soon.


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## bluesjr

FatTireFred said:


> is that the original fork?


No, I crashed the bike about 8-9 years ago. I went over the handlebars in an intersection and broke my collar bone. I hung the bike up for a few years. My nephew borrowed it and replaced the fork and rode it awhile. Don't know much about this fork. Hopefully the shop he used installed a decent one. It looks good though. The original had that squared off look. 

Earlier this year, I tried to turn it into an upright bike (below). It was cool in a way, but really sucked for any distance at all - too twitchy. The balance was all wrong. So recently I saw the carbon bars and stem on cl for $100 and couldn't resist, so I swapped back to drop bars. The only thing I don't like is the color of the stem, but it's Easton and guaranteed to work with the Easton (EC90 Pro Equip) carbon bars, and I'm a little paranoid. I'm using a Nashbar threaded to threadless adapter which works fine with the traditional headset. Alaris, I much prefer your stem, and may try to fit a quill stem someday. I'll have to get some advice from someone who knows about carbon bars.

Yes, right now, everything feels pretty good. And the saddle is icing on the cake. I really like the Brooks.


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## Red Sox Junkie

I just picked up an '83 Trek 500 frame and built it up. I have only taken it on a couple of rides and the jury is still out. Compared to my 16 lb carbon fiber bike, the trek is very sluggish in the climbs, but seems very fast on descents. I am planning on trying my hand at a local brevet series and thought this would be better on long distances than my other bike. I'm curious to see how I will like it on longer distances.


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## Red Sox Junkie

bluesjr said:


> Glad I found this thread, as I was going to start one with the same question.
> 
> I've got a very similar 1986 or '87 Trek 560 Pro (without the EX), and love it. Last year I started riding again seriously and replaced the crank with a SRAM Rival compact, which I really enjoy on the foothills around here. This year I put on carbon bars (sensitive hands), carbon seatpost and improved campy brakes (all at too-good-to-pass-up prices). And this xmas, added the brooks saddle (which I just posted in the Christmas thread). I've got the fit dialed in and the bike feels fantastic for a wide variety of riding situations.
> 
> But I had been ruminating about replacing those exact wheels. The main dilemma was the dropout width and then switching over to the modern freehub system and 10 speeds, requiring new shifters, derailleur, etc. And I've got a new carbon bike already setup that way for serious riding.
> 
> For now, I think I'll stay with the old wheels. But when/if I ever wear out those Matrix CD4 tires, I'll buy some new/decent rubber. I've still got the originals because I replaced them with Turbos when I first got the bike, and hung them up in the garage years ago. They went back on this year.


you could always get a new set of wheels with the appropriate spacer and you could still run the same cog. I've put a 130 hub in a 126 dropout without much effort. You'll get a much lighter wheel and you can upgrade your drivetrain later down the line.


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## Fredrico

*Or, as we used to do:*



Red Sox Junkie said:


> you could always get a new set of wheels with the appropriate spacer and you could still run the same cog. I've put a 130 hub in a 126 dropout without much effort. You'll get a much lighter wheel and you can upgrade your drivetrain later down the line.


Just buy a pair of 32 hole rims that have the same shape, and lace them onto the original hubs, using the same spokes. We used to do this all the time when someone crashed and trashed a rim. I've replaced the rims on two of my bikes a few times, still running on the original hubs. Rims always wear out first. Hubs go forever. If the spokes don't have any dings on them and the bends look solid, they'll be fine on a new rim. Replace rounded off nipples. You just have to find a good wheel builder, or do it yourself. We used to be able to re-lace a wheel on a new rim inside 45 minutes, with excellent results.


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## wooglin

Red Sox Junkie said:


> I've put a 130 hub in a 126 dropout without much effort.


Yup, when finding decent freewheels got to be a problem, that's what I did. I run modern Ultegra hubs in an old steel frame with 9sp and friction shifters.


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## Reynolds531

wooglin said:


> Yup, when finding decent freewheels got to be a problem, that's what I did. I run modern Ultegra hubs in an old steel frame with 9sp and friction shifters.



IRD makes some very nice freewheels. The first manufacturing runs had some problems, but the new are great. I'm really glad because I have 2 phil freewheel hubs.

http://www.interlocracing.com/freewheels_steel.html


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## Bill Silverman

I don't seem to have a problem finding good freewheels on Ebay with plenty of life left in the cogs. I think the Suntour/Maeda freewheels are a whole lot better than the Maillard or Regina ones.


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## Richard

I think if Trek were smart, they'd dust off those old jigs, bring out of retirement some of their old employees, order up some good Reynolds and Columbus tubing, find that long lost stash of unused lugs and braze up some "retro" frames and forks with slightly upgraded graphics.

I mean, look at what Cinelli gets for a Supercourse or De Rosa for a Neo Primato. Pure gold, I say!


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## FatTireFred

Richard said:


> I think if Trek were smart, they'd dust off those old jigs, bring out of retirement some of their old employees, order up some good Reynolds and Columbus tubing, find that long lost stash of unused lugs and braze up some "retro" frames and forks with slightly upgraded graphics.
> 
> I mean, look at what Cinelli gets for a Supercourse or De Rosa for a Neo Primato. Pure gold, I say!




instead, what they would prob do is paint up some oclv or alu frames with the old panels and sell as vintage/retro throwback heritage models... yeah, look for Lance rolling down the Corso Sempione on one this May while wearing a wool Astana kit


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## FatTireFred

Red Sox Junkie said:


> I just picked up an '83 Trek 500 frame and built it up. I have only taken it on a couple of rides and the jury is still out. Compared to my 16 lb carbon fiber bike, the trek is very sluggish in the climbs, but seems very fast on descents. I am planning on trying my hand at a local brevet series and thought this would be better on long distances than my other bike. I'm curious to see how I will like it on longer distances.




well yeah, geo has changed


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## Bill Silverman

I think the vintage steel-framed lugged Treks are still undervalued, although I've been seeing the prices starting to climb. I have three vintage Treks in my stable, two 760's, one built up with Campy Nuovo Record components from my former early 70's Gitane, an '85 760 in purple sparkle, and my Mylanta-green '84 770 (pictured). I'm waiting delivery on an '83 model 970 with Super Record components from the original owner.

I am involved in the Team Raleigh and Classic Rendezvous discussion groups. I love the Vintage Trek website but it disappoints me that there isn't a discussion group to accompany it. Who knows, maybe with all the responses to this post we could get one up and running.


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## bluesjr

That 770 is a beauty!


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## Richard

That 770 is a beauty. As far as I'm concerned, the quality of those steel Treks, from the tubing selection, to the lugs, to the overall workmanship (remember those were all silver brazed - not brass), was as good or better than anything coming out of Italy or Britain (price points being equal) at the time.

It's just that I don't think Ugo or Ernesto would have let that frame out of the barn decked out entirely in Mylanta green. Kind of why I suggested "updated" graphics.

Meanwhile, as I work for a Trek dealer, I'm keeping my eye out for the sleeper that comes through the door that the owner wants to part with.


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## Bill Silverman

Richard:

You think the Mylanta-green is weird? The following year the 770 came in Pepto Bismol pink! Unfortunately, the tubeset was changed from 531P (professional, only 100gms heavier than 753 tubing) to 531C (competition, basically the exact frame as the 760 but done up with different graphics and with Super Record components if offered as a complete bike).


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## Richard

Bill Silverman said:


> Richard:
> 
> You think the Mylanta-green is weird? The following year the 770 came in Pepto Bismol pink! Unfortunately, the tubeset was changed from 531P (professional, only 100gms heavier than 753 tubing) to 531C (competition, basically the exact frame as the 760 but done up with different graphics and with Super Record components if offered as a complete bike).


I actually like the Mylanta. Now Pepto Bismol......Trek did make some weird color choices.

Interestingly, I didn't know Trek ever made a 531P frame. Columbus, 531C, even True Temper. I have a 1987 Falcon Victory that is 531P and it probably is my all-time favorite bike. Even better than the Bob Jackson 753 that it replaced when the Jackson broke.:cryin:


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## waldowales

I have a nice little Trek 600, from 1985, upgraded with Campagnolo headset, wheels, hubs, derailers, brakes, triple crank, 8 speed Ergo brifters. Cinelli stem and bars, Brooks B17 saddle. This is my tourer, I use it to pull a single wheel trailer. I have several other bikes, but this one is my favorite.
I haven't spread the dropouts, it isn't at all hard to slide the wheel in.


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## Bikedued

I've picked up a couple of Treks in the last month, so I might as well show all three of my lightweights! First off is the 83 560 that I converted to 7 speed 105 with bar end shifters on Rivendell pods. FD/RD are Shimano 105 from the later 80's. Black ambrosio wrap, original aero AC500 dia compes. Jagwire road pads, and a drilled Sugino crank from an 84 Miyata. Rode it to work today.

Second is a 1986 520 Cirrus. Was a local pickup ebay for $104. I was extremely happy with with the condition. Truly amazing for a bike that was actually used. I have the original freewheel, pedals, etc in a box. The original owner put on the Exage levers, Deore RD, indexed shift levers, and sealed cartridge wheels with Mavic hard anodized rims. All nice choices so I left it as is and just cleaned it up and rewrapped the bars. Tires are Michelin Erilium 2 which compliment the red nicely I think. I used a single layer of cork covered by red cloth Tressostar. It is one of the nicest bikes I own, for both condition and ride quality.

Third but not least is a 1990 Trek 1200. I got it in a package deal a few weeks ago. I converted to a late 90's tri color 600 group, with Brifters(8 speed) Salsa stem, black bike ribbon, UG tires, seat post from a GT Force, and a Terry Fly saddle. Crankset is a Bontrager sport from the LBS. They had a choice of this or Veloce. I hadn't won the lottery that day, so I opted for the Bontrager. Nicest riding aluminum bike I've ever ridden,, feels like high end steel. Handling is a little funky, I think the stem is too long. It takes too little movement to make even the simplest maneuvers. Spooky, but I will fix it soon enough. ,,,,BD


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## thekidd

how about a 99 ? it is going on on 11 years


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## Bill Silverman

Man, what an old thread! Old threads never die, they just fade away.

OK, my last restore (the one that cured my "bike acquisition syndrome"): a rare '83 Trek 970 and, no, it's not the mountain bike. Offered only for one year. Columbus SL tubing, silver brazed lugwork, old school stiffining lugs on the fork blades, Campy Super Record gruppo.

The frame required a lot of cosmetic touch up: carefully mixing up Testor's enamel paint until it matched the reddish-orangish-brownish color, NOS replacement "TREK" decals, lacing up a set of NOS GP4 tubular rims onto the unused original Campy hubs (the original owner chickened out and went with a built-up set of Specialized clincher rims) and a complete teardown and rebuild. 

This was not a fun rebuild: the bike fought me every step of the way, so I thought it would be a ride from hell. What a surprise when I took it out and found it to be a responsive, well behaved bike.


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## josephr

rcnute said:


> And ditch the Biopace chainrings!



Thats the worst advice ever! Sure, there was a lot of marketing hype from Shimano and the technology never lived up to the hype, but the reality is that Biopace was based on sound principles and design. There are lots of folks (myself included) who ride and appreciate the beneifts of Biopace. Additionally, I'd like to know a reason why someone shouldn't ride Biopace? I mean, if its working, why spend the $ to replace it?
Joe


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## nickillus

josephr said:


> Thats the worst advice ever! Sure, there was a lot of marketing hype from Shimano and the technology never lived up to the hype, but the reality is that Biopace was based on sound principles and design. There are lots of folks (myself included) who ride and appreciate the beneifts of Biopace. Additionally, I'd like to know a reason why someone shouldn't ride Biopace? I mean, if its working, why spend the $ to replace it?
> Joe


I agree. I've been riding a vintage Trek with Biopace the last 2 years and find it not at all objectionable. It works for me.

That's a great looking bike, Silverman. Nice job. Enjoy.


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## iebobo

I purchased a 560 Pro for myself as a Christmas present last year on Ebay. The rims were shot (numerous eyelets missing) so I rebuilt the hubs and laced them to a pair of Open Sports. According to the brochure I saw online, it came with the "New 105 group". I have to say, I like the downdube shifters. It makes me feel like I'm Kevin Costner in American Flyers. I do wish the paint was in better shape, but can't see spending hundreds to have it repainted right now. Fun bike and a nice change from carbon.


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## wooglin

Wocka wocka


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## bluesjr

Bill Silverman said:


> a rare '83 Trek 970


That's the nicest looking vintage Trek I've ever seen. Love that color scheme.


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## itc41

I just picked this up, I wanted an old bike for the trainer when it snows.
It's very good shape. Looking up the VIN number, it is a 1985 with a 
chrome-moly frame with special cast lugs. 400 Trek








Other than the brake levers and the seat, it original parts
all around. I will spiff it up a little, and ride it in that classic bike thing
in Leesburg Va next year.


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## Rider5200

That's a great looking bike. As others have said, just get the service bits done and go ride the thing. One more thing to replace -- brake pads. A fresh set of pads would do wonders when it comes time to slow or stop.

Go riding!


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## Malvoe1

I just happen to be looking at a Trek 370 for my wife, here: http://ventura.craigslist.org/bik/1921859578.html

I haven't been able to find much about it - anyone have any thoughts? It is a 94 model with Chro-moly tubing (but hight tens seat stays). My wife is just looking for a leisure type road bike, not something to train on.


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## Malvoe1

Specs can be found in the original brochure here: http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/trek/94/Trek94.pdf

I guess it is the bottom of the line model.


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## MikesChevelle

Not the oldest of Treks, but one of my Fav's


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## iebobo




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## iebobo

https://s1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee482/iebobo/?action=view&current=IMG_0307.jpg


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## tidi

Bill Silverman said:


> Man, what an old thread! Old threads never die, they just fade away.
> 
> OK, my last restore (the one that cured my "bike acquisition syndrome"): a rare '83 Trek 970 and, no, it's not the mountain bike. Offered only for one year. Columbus SL tubing, silver brazed lugwork, old school stiffining lugs on the fork blades, Campy Super Record gruppo.
> 
> The frame required a lot of cosmetic touch up: carefully mixing up Testor's enamel paint until it matched the reddish-orangish-brownish color, NOS replacement "TREK" decals, lacing up a set of NOS GP4 tubular rims onto the unused original Campy hubs (the original owner chickened out and went with a built-up set of Specialized clincher rims) and a complete teardown and rebuild.
> 
> This was not a fun rebuild: the bike fought me every step of the way, so I thought it would be a ride from hell. What a surprise when I took it out and found it to be a responsive, well behaved bike.


that is beautiful


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## macalu

You can go 7 cogs with that rear spacing. I have an old aluminum Trek 1100 frameset. I bought a Phil Wood freewheel hub in 126 spacing and laced it to a Mavic Open Pro rim with DT 14/15 doublebutted spokes. Run a 7-speed freewheel. You could do that.


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## 6-Speed

I bought this 1981 Trek 613 6-Sp brand new back in college. It has double-butted Reynolds 531 main tubes, Ishiwata stays and fork, Suntour derailleurs and an SR crankset. It sat idle for many years until I decided to restore it in 2005. It has most of its original parts, original gun-metal paint and original decals. I updated to a cartridge BB, Thomson seatpost, Shimano pedals, SRAM chain and a Koobi saddle. I also re-built the 27" Aluminum wheels keeping only the original hubs. 

Restoring this bike gave me the inspiration and confidence to build up my current ride, a Merlin Cyrene Ti road bike. I still ride the Trek on occasion and it continues to ride beautifully.


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## 6-Speed

Double post


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## thekidd

*.............*

..............


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## thekidd

*1984 Trek 460*

for $135 ? post some pictures in a hour or so


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## iebobo

Take a good look at it. Make sure the rims are in good condition with no cracking or eyelets missing and that the frame is in good condition. If it's in good shape, it's definitely worth $135.


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## thekidd

iebobo said:


> Take a good look at it. Make sure the rims are in good condition with no cracking or eyelets missing and that the frame is in good condition. If it's in good shape, it's definitely worth $135.


thanks iebobo for the input,i'll do, i have been looking for another clean Trek ,I could kick myself for letting this one go , it was raced by a local girl in the Dallas/Ft.Worth area in the early to mid 90's,it had quite abit of history


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## thekidd

*1984 Trek 460*

got it home for $125 ,a clean-up and new bartape is in need and one rear spoke . but it looks solid !


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## thekidd

not mine but nice and clean 770 found on cyclofiend.com


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## froze

Your bike looks like it has hardly been ridden. BioPace was not a bad joke, they did work just never caught on, I have a Miyata 612 with Biopace and I actually like it; here's what Sheldon Brown said about Biopace:

What Are They Good For?
Biopace chainwheels are particularly suitable for touring cyclists and time trialists, or any application that involves a steady, fairly constant cadence. They allow healthy, efficient pedaling at slower cadences than is possible with round chainwheels. They are especially suitable for triathletes and mountain bikers. The triathlete benefits because the motion is a little bit closer to that of running, making the transition easier.

The mountain biker particularly benefits, because the Biopace design somewhat smooths out the delivery of power to the rear wheel. In climbing on loose surfaces, the limiting factor is often traction. The rear wheel tends to break loose during the maximum power phase of the pedal stroke, wasting most of the cyclist's energy. The Biopace chainwheel works like a storage device, storing power during the main power phase of the stroke as the feet accelerate, then delivering the stored power to the rear wheel during the "dead center" phase when the cranks are near vertical. The same average amount of power is delivered to the rear wheel, but in a smoother, less pulsating flow. All the energy is used to propel the bike forward, without the high-power peaks spinning the rear tire or causing the bike to "wheelie."

The Cadence Issue
The marketers of Biopace made a crucial error of judgement: too much information. In particular, they mentioned that the Biopace design was optimized for cadences of about 90 rpm and slower. Many readers interpreted this as an indication that Biopace chainrings would somehow interfere with pedaling faster than that. This perception caused a bit of a self-fullfiling prophecy, and the Conventional Wisdom arose that Biopace was bad for high-performance cyclists for this reason. I used to believe this myself, but I rode them anyway because I appreciated their other virtues.
Among other bikes, I run Biopace on several of my fixed-gear machines, where high cadences are quite common in descending hills. In practice I have found no less ability to spin fast with Biopace chainrings, and, if anything, they permit me to spin faster without bouncing in the saddle.

Here's why: While your feet go around in circles, your legs basically go up and down in a reciprocating motion. With Biopace chainrigs, your leg speed is faster in the middle of the stroke (when the cranks are horizontal) but slower at the top and bottom of the stroke (when the cranks are vertical.)

The slower motion at top and bottom means that as your leg changes direction from upward to downward, or downward to upward motion, it will do so at a slightly slower, more gentle speed. The increased leg speed near the middle of the stroke is the result of a more gradual accelleration/decelleration with the leg moving in the same direction. Bouncing in the saddle generally results from difficulty with changes in leg direction, not speed in the middle of the stroke. Thus, as Biopace makes it easier on your knees, it also can help you spin faster without bouncing!


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## thekidd

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## thekidd

why would you drill out a 700 rim to fit a schrader(27inch)valve stem!! some people!


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## froze

Some people are scared of Presta's and think their inferior so they drill out rims so a Schrader can fit, your right, some people!


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## 6-Speed

thekidd said:


> for $135 ? post some pictures in a hour or so


The guidlines on the Vintage Trek site suggests 33% to 50% of original selling price for 84 to 90 models that are in good to excellent condition. List price for a 1985 460 is $400, so at $135 you're at the low end of the scale. Looks like a fun project!

http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekPriceLists.htm


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## thekidd




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## interceptor

Got this a few weeks ago...1986 Trek 700 Tri Series. All 600... 12 speed...rides awesome!


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## froze

interceptor said:


> Got this a few weeks ago...1986 Trek 700 Tri Series. All 600... 12 speed...rides awesome!


That's a fantastic find, it looks brand new from the pics. I have a Trek 660 and it too rides awesome; I bought it as a frame and fork in 84 and put on all 83 (brand new at the time but got a better price due to being a year old) Suntour Superbe components. I still ride it today even though it has over 150,000 miles on the frame and components. I converted mine to a 14 speed some years ago though but the Superbe friction system handles it without any issues. Yours looks a lot better then mine, my paint job and decals are all beat up from 20 years of California sun.


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## nickillus

That is a very cool bike and in great condition. Love that paint scheme and that paint is Imron tough. I have an '87 560, still 6spd which I really enjoy. I think yours has 531 throughout including fork while mine has 531 in just the main triangle. I don't know how that would affect ride/performance. Less weight maybe? Nevertheless, these vintage Treks are a great ride. Enjoy.


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## froze

nickillus said:


> That is a very cool bike and in great condition. Love that paint scheme and that paint is Imron tough. I have an '87 560, still 6spd which I really enjoy. I think yours has 531 throughout including fork while mine has 531 in just the main triangle. I don't know how that would affect ride/performance. Less weight maybe? Nevertheless, these vintage Treks are a great ride. Enjoy.


The 700 Tri series used Reynolds 531 Chrome moly with a Trek investment cast crown and plated ends; the 500 tri used Tange chrome moly with just a CCL crown. Also the 700 series used Reynolds tapered steel for the stays while the 500 used an unknown brand of tapered steel possibly Nikko. The 700 used 531c (c for competition) dbl butted main tubes, while the 500 has no letter designation after it meaning it was regular 531. The two, as originally equipped in 86 only had about a 5 ounce difference.


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## kaliayev

Guess I went against the grain in using modern components on my 84 660 build. The guy I bought the frame from recently had it repainted yellow. Rides really nice and is quickly becoming my favorite.


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## nickillus

Looks great. Really nice build.


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## froze

That's an 85 frame not an 84, the 85 had fastback seat stays, the 84 did not. It also "appears", note I said appears because photo's can do weird things, but it "appears" to be a 670 not a 660. I say that only because the photo of your bike makes it "appear" to have a slightly longer wheel base then the 660 has. 

The other thing that is odd is the top tube cable guides, all mid 80's Treks used three...I only see two on yours, what happened to the one in the middle? Did you remove it? 

And since it is an 85 you got the wrong decal, it should say just Trek on the down tube and the 660 is in script style on the top tube towards the front. Also a USA decal is on the seat tube towards the top. The correct decals is available on the internet if interested I can provide the site, or you just leave it as it is no one but me would notice!!

You did a great job painting it and getting the decals on, it looks great.


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## kaliayev

Good eyes on the cable stays. Apparently at some point all the stays had been drewed. The guy I bought the frame from had modern stays brazed on the top tub before the repaint. The serial number is 158299 which according to Vintage Trek it is a 660 21" built on 11/23/84. So I guess it could be an 85. The bike was originally red with yellow decals. Being that the repaint was yellow I did not want to use yellow decals. I had Velocals do me up some red ones in 84 style minus the down tube decals. Also got the Reynolds frame decal and Trek head badge. Ironically I went with the 85 head badge as I thought it would contrast better with the yellow frame.


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## kaliayev

Froze, I took a closer look at the Trek brochures and you are right about the seat stays and it being an 85. Oh well... she is staying as is for now. Maybe this winter I'll make the corrections.


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## froze

kaliayev said:


> Good eyes on the cable stays. Apparently at some point all the stays had been drewed. The guy I bought the frame from had modern stays brazed on the top tub before the repaint. The serial number is 158299 which according to Vintage Trek it is a 660 21" built on 11/23/84. So I guess it could be an 85. The bike was originally red with yellow decals. Being that the repaint was yellow I did not want to use yellow decals. I had Velocals do me up some red ones in 84 style minus the down tube decals. Also got the Reynolds frame decal and Trek head badge. Ironically I went with the 85 head badge as I thought it would contrast better with the yellow frame.


Yep, the model year would be an 85 not an 84. Kind of like cars, a car may be built in July of 2010, but it's a 2011 model year.

I have had 3 Treks in my lifetime. The first one was 1976 TX900 racing bike with all Campy Record junk, junk because later I found out Suntour was way better. This bike was the first year Trek opened for sales and the bike was sent to the LBS's as a frame/fork only then the LBS would build some up and sell them. My LBS had this one built and on display when I came in and bought it. The next Trek I had was a 1980 412 built from the factory with Suntour VxGT derailleurs, middle of the road components but that's when I learned how superior the Suntour stuff was. Then I got a 1984 Trek 660 which I still have today. That bike was purchased as frame and fork and I had all Suntour Superbe components put on from 1983 group collection the LBS had that he never sold so I got the group cheap. There's a story behind all those Treks but who has the time and who cares!

Now I won't buy a new Trek...sorry all of you Trek fans.


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## atpjunkie

*one of the frame builders*

or a guy pretending to be Joe Starck used to post on this forum


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## BlueDevil63

*82 Trek 957*

Here is my 957. Not sure if it was originally a 950 frame built into a 957 configuration or a 957 from the factory. Repaint by Mark Schroeder.


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## BlueDevil63

Here is my 957. Not sure if it was originally a 950 frame built into a 957 configuration or a 957 from the factory. Repaint by Mark Schroeder.


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## froze

That 957 is a piece of art, great repaint and great detail to the original bike. Your bike looks to be about my size, please forward the bike to my address.

The only difference between the 959 and the 957 was components, they had the exact same frame. The designation of 950 was just the series number that the 9 and the 7 are part of. Kind of like the 600 series had a 660 and a 620, but those had different frames, one was a racing frame and the other a touring frame. The 957 had Campy Super Record and the 959 had Shimano Dura Ace. 

Imagine how much a bike made like that today would cost? You know how much Rivendells sell for.


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## BlueDevil63

Actually in 82 you could buy a frameset designated the 950. You could also buy it built with Campy (957) or Shimano (959). I am not sure whether this started life as just a frameset or one of the fully built versions.


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## froze

BlueDevil63 said:


> Actually in 82 you could buy a frameset designated the 950. You could also buy it built with Campy (957) or Shimano (959). I am not sure whether this started life as just a frameset or one of the fully built versions.


Not knowing much about that model, I had to check the Trek history site and that's why I said what I did because the site doesn't mention a 950 just a 950 series with 957 and 959 under it listed under the models. If it was a 950 maybe the 950 stood for just frame and fork? Regardless it's a rare bike, I haven't ever seen one! The closest I ever had to what you have was the TX900 and those I've actually seen on E-Bay, but never one of yours. I hope you keep it and not sell it, it's a rare classic and it looks brand new. And whatever you do I hope you don't bastardize it with modern components. The old components are still very good if not better then todays stuff, and if a part does break you can find them on e-Bay a lot times in NOS condition or NIB.

Is yours equipped with Shimano Dura Ace or Campy Record?


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## nickillus

BlueDevil, that is drop dead gorgeous! It's nice knowing these vintage Treks are worthy of restoration. They are wonderful framsets.


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## BlueDevil63

I am going by the 1982 Trek catalog. It lists a frameset designated the 950, along with the 957 and 959. Mine is Columbus SL and Campy Super Record equipped, thus it is nominally a 957. It is actually for sale on Ebay right now although I am going to hold out for a good price for it.


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