# first time using clipless



## rodzghost (Jun 20, 2012)

Alright, so I finally got my clipless pedals and decided to practice with them. I couldn't get in them at first, but after a few tries I finally figured it out. Spent about 30 mins riding around the block, clipping and unclipping as I rode. 

I did a few loops and managed to almost fall about 3-4 times. Luckily, no mishaps yet, but I can totally see it happening. During those panic moments, I was usually unclipped in one foot, but the bike was leaning on the other side. Luckily, it's easy to clip out when panicked. I just hope that's always the case when I need to suddenly unclip.

I LOVE the feeling of efficiency I get from being able to pull "up" on the pedals now. Seems like my high (harder) gears aren't as "high" as they used to be. I can't wait to try those hills with my pedals.

Also, I feel much more stable in the saddle now. As in, I don't slide forward so much anymore, and I can actually place myself where I want (fore or aft). Not sure if that's just placebo effect or what, but the bike does seem to fit better. Although that could just be due to finally getting the right size frame (finally), but that's a different story.

Oh, btw, I got the Shimano PD-M520 (SPD pedals) with the Specialized Sport Mountain shoes. 

As an aside, I was recommended to get a half size bigger than my walking/running shoes. Is this typical? My foot doesn't move forward when I'm walking, but my heel does lift a bit. While cycling, I can feel the shoe "stretch" upward slightly, but no movement of my foot otherwise. I tighten the straps to just before the point of being painful, but still get that slight "stretching" feel when I'm pulling up on the pedals. Is this normal?


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I found it fairly easy to get used to clipless but I did have to do two things I found

1. adjust the pedals on the loose side - easier to clip in and more importantly out while you are learning and it hasn't become habit yet before stopping

2. make a deliberate effort to clip out well before you reach a point where you think you will or might have to stop - intersections for sure. 

As far as shoe fitting - I have heard that you don't want to have the shoes pulled down tight as it restricts the flow of blood and can contribute to your foot falling asleep / going numb on longer rides. My shoes I have fit to a regular fit like a tennis shoe while standing up, not loose, not tight - same size I would normally buy worked well for me.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Try my  primer on pedals.


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## shoot summ (Oct 1, 2012)

Got my wife into pedals and shoes last weekend. Put her on the trainer for awhile, talked to her a lot about anticipating, etc. She did great, we stopped at a garage sale on our Saturday morning ride, next thing I hear is the sound of her bike hitting the ground. Seems she had clipped both feet out, but rested her right foot on the pedal, which somehow clipped in, and she fell to her right...

She was a good sport about it, wearing her wounds proudly.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

rodzghost said:


> I tighten the straps to just before the point of being painful, but still get that slight "stretching" feel when I'm pulling up on the pedals. Is this normal?


Stop pulling up on the pedals and the "stretchy feeling" will go away. The idea that pulling up on the pedals increases efficiency significantly during seated riding is a myth. The human leg simply isn't very good at producing a lot of force by pulling at something. Granted, there is a small increase in power at the rear wheel. But the metabolic costs of pulling up are very large in relation to the small amount of extra power. You can feel this when you noticeably tire after a minute or so of pulling up.

Clipless pedals offer many benefits. But the ability to pull up forcefully is a benefit only during the few seconds of an out-of-the-saddle powerful acceleration or a sprint. Elite riders almost never pull up while seated—they just push hard on the down stroke.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

rodzghost said:


> Alright, so I finally got my clipless pedals and decided to practice with them. I couldn't get in them at first, but after a few tries I finally figured it out. Spent about 30 mins riding around the block, clipping and unclipping as I rode.
> 
> I did a few loops and managed to almost fall about 3-4 times. Luckily, no mishaps yet, but I can totally see it happening. During those panic moments, I was usually unclipped in one foot, but the bike was leaning on the other side. Luckily, it's easy to clip out when panicked. I just hope that's always the case when I need to suddenly unclip.
> 
> ...


A couple of thoughts on this...

While I agree that clipless pedals can make us more efficient by helping us smooth the pedal stroke, through my experiences I remain skeptical that 'pulling up' has any real effect - or is even sustainable at high cadences. It's far more important to pedal in circles, pushing forward/ down on the down stroke and pulling back through the bottom, unweighting the leg on the upstroke.

re: sliding forward in the saddle, it does make sense that as a rider applies more power, they'll be less likely to do so, but (assuming a good bike fit/ correct weight distribution) a rider should still be able to cruise without that forward movement. It's not unusual to require tweaks to fit along the way, so something to keep in mind.... 

Re: shoe sizing/ fit, keep in mind that their _primary_ use is cycling, not walking. So don't focus too much on the heel lifting slightly while walking. Makes sense given that well designed cycling shoes have very stiff soles. 

However, from your description, your fit doesn't sound ideal. A well fitting shoe shouldn't require tightening the straps to just before the point of being painful, and because feet generally swell during rides, doing so is apt to cause you problems (mainly, numbing).

Before returning these shoes, I suggest fastening the straps using Srode's description - not loose, not tight and go for a ride. If need be, stop during the ride to adjust the fasteners for comfort, but give it some time. You may just find that the fit is right. BTW, FWIW I wear Specialized Elite road shoes and sized up 1/2 size. It's not uncommon to do so.

Also, if you aren't already doing so, I suggest wearing cycling socks, or at least a thinner sock, appropriate for such a use.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

wim said:


> The idea that pulling up on the pedals increases efficiency significantly during seated riding is a myth. The human leg simply isn't very good at producing a lot of force by pulling at something. Granted, there is a small increase in power at the rear wheel. But the metabolic costs of pulling up are very large in relation to the small amount of extra power. You can feel this when you noticeably tire after a minute or so of pulling up.
> Clipless pedals offer many benefits. But the ability to pull up forcefully is a benefit only during the few seconds of an out-of-the-saddle powerful acceleration or a sprint. Elite riders almost never pull up while seated—they just push hard on the down stroke.


Wim and PJ nailed it. Pulling up is a myth. It's almost impossible to pull up at cadences of 80-100rpm and, as Wim says, it isn't worth it. The best we can do is push down and pull back, unweight on the upstroke and try to push over the top. But even all this takes much thought and even more practice to ingrain it in the brain. I've worked with my physiotherapist long and hard on this and she's an expert on pedaling dynamics.

As Wim says, true pulling up is only effective at the start of an all-out sprint, or an out of saddle grunt of a climb. Once the revs rise, pulling up ceases quickly.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Srode said:


> 2. make a deliberate effort to clip out well before you reach a point where you think you will or might have to stop - intersections for sure.


I do the exact opposite. This is ok when first learning, but I think getting in the habit of uncliping early makes you less skilled in panic situations. I usually come to a complete stop and try to trackstand for a second before unclipping. And I don't use the same foot every time. You need to be confident in using either foot since you never know when a panic stop forces you to use your non standard foot.
Eventually, you're going to face a situation when you can't plan your stop. Will you be ready?

OP, I suggest practicing trackstands. Being able to balance for just 2 seconds will greatly increase your confidence in using clipless pedals.


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## Tech420 (Sep 23, 2012)

Go take a mountain bike out on some trails and you'll learn to unclip in panic situations real fast.


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## moonshadow (Sep 17, 2012)

^ +1
And also try looking for multi release cleats. It can disengage at any position.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Tech420 said:


> Go take a mountain bike out on some trails and you'll learn to unclip in panic situations real fast.


Oh wow that sure brings back some memories. I had the original, first ever MTB pedals - the Shimano M-737 - and if your pedal or cleat was fouled with mud (go figure, in mountain biking eh?) you could NOT unclip unless you mustered all your available strength. The only way to get out was to latch onto a handy nearby tree and heave on the foot with all your leg strength. We did a lot of creative stops in those days. I never fell once though.

Before mountain bike clip-in pedals hit the market (early 90's and road clip-ins had already been out for 5 years) a riding buddy used road pedals (and road shoes) on his mountain bike. He did lots of creative stops too. We got really good at track stands. This is why the "I fell because of the pedals" crowd make me smile. 

How easy mountain bike riders now have it. My Eggbeaters are perfection in the mud and almost all pro cyclocross riders (no-one needs to get out of pedals faster than they) use the incredible Shimano XTR. Mud-schmud.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

moonshadow said:


> ^ +1
> And also try looking for multi release cleats. It can disengage at any position.


A total crutch. To prevent inadvertent pop-out the pedals tension has to be set way too high. Get real cleats and slack that pedal tension *way* off. Then learn to rotate the heel - not pull up in a panic at any angle.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

rodzghost said:


> I did a few loops and managed to almost fall about 3-4 times. Luckily, no mishaps yet, but I can totally see it happening. During those panic moments, I was usually unclipped in one foot, but the bike was leaning on the other side. Luckily, it's easy to clip out when panicked. I just hope that's always the case when I need to suddenly unclip.


When you unclip on one side at a stop, cut your handlebars towards the other foot. It might seem counter-intuitive, but it works. Cutting the front wheel shifts your balance over to the opposite side. Do it as you come to a stop.


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## rodzghost (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll look into learning how to track stand. Tried learning it years ago on my mountain bike, but never got the hang of it (I was too chicken). 

RE: shoe sizing. The shoes fit fine while standing/walking (minus the slight heel lift), and I only tightened the straps to see if it would stop the stretching. Seems like the solution is to just not lift up, so that's that.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

wim said:


> Clipless pedals offer many benefits. But the ability to pull up forcefully is a benefit only during the few seconds of an out-of-the-saddle powerful acceleration or a sprint.


Can also help when climbing through some tough spots.


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## moonshadow (Sep 17, 2012)

Mike T. said:


> A total crutch. To prevent inadvertent pop-out the pedals tension has to be set way too high. Get real cleats and slack that pedal tension *way* off. Then learn to rotate the heel - not pull up in a panic at any angle.


Yes, I rotate my heel everytime when disengaging (bike stop) but it has also saved some potential broken bones during panic stop when even quick thinking and muscle memory is not enough.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

If anything, I actually downsize a bit for cycling shoes. Ski boots too.

When I'm not wearing shoes and I'm walking, my forefoot and toes bend. The bottom of my foot gets a bit longer and the top gets a bit shorter. In soft shoes, this still happens, and it has the effect that I use up a little of the space in front of my toes in the shoe. That's why we're all told to size walking and running shoes to be able to press down part of the toe of the shoe without mashing our own toes.

Cycling shoes don't (shouldn't, anyway) flex. So while I wouldn't want a cycling shoe in which my toe was actually pressing against the toe of the shoe, I don't need any more room than that. Even my MTB shoes, which do have a bit more flex in the forefoot, don't flex as much as my running shoes. Incidentally, I have the BG Comp. So very similar to yours, I think. I guess I retract some of my statement - these shoes are designed to flex a bit. But it should all be happening far enough forward not to happen on the bike. Certainly I don't notice it when I'm riding, but it's clearly happening when I'm walking or running. I haven't tried to figure out where, exactly, the flex starts.

As far as moving around in the shoes is concerned, I had this argument with a friend of mine a while ago. I was sure that I was contributing a little power on the up stroke in normal pedaling. But he was adamant that that's not the case. I'm not sure whose idea it was, but I paid attention for a while to where on my foot I feel pressure during my normal, 90ish cadence seated pedaling. Really, I don't feel the top of the shoe. I do slide fore and aft a little if my shoes are too loose, so I generally wear my shoes only as tight as it takes to prevent that. For me, the big benefit of clipless pedals is that my feet don't move around on them during the upstroke, when I'm putting less weight into them. They're always right where I want them. And for more "serious" cycling, just that they go with the shoe, which I think is the main event. I just use clips and straps to go to school and run errands and whatnot.

I find that with a rigid shoe like a cycling shoe or a ski boot, having an insole that really fits me is a big help and lets me ride with the shoe (boot, whatever) a bit looser, without sacrificing stability or control. Since it's more comfortable, I like that.  I was getting bad enough shin bang whaling on ski boots to get the stability and control I wanted that it wasn't fun anymore. That's a more extreme case than cycling, but the point is that a well-fitting shoe shouldn't have to be very tight to be stable and secure, and the right insole can help. Of course, if your shoes are just too big....


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## rodzghost (Jun 20, 2012)

I guess I should clarify on my shoe size. I think it's fine after reading the replies here to not to lift on the upstroke. That was the only reason I was tightening them so much. As far as cycling with the shoes, my feet are comfortable and don't move around. 

During walking, my heel does lift a bit, but not much. I won't be walking *much* in these shoes, so it's not a big deal. 

I also tried a half size smaller than my walking shoes, and also the same size, but they both felt cramped in the sides and toes. I suppose it might be cuz I have wide feet. 

TL;DR: the shoe size I have now fits comfortably.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I always unclip on the prefered side to put my foot down first(left for me), but I do ALWAYS unclip both sides just in case I need to have the other side go to the ground instead, the second foot is unclipped immediately after the first. Not sure why I don't do them at the same time but that's what I do.

I also make sure when I put my foot on the pedal after unclipping I put the arch on the pedal and not the front of my foot so I don't accidentally clip back in.


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## pilotman520 (Oct 6, 2012)

Is there any reason not to use mountain pedals on a road bike? I use crankbrothers candy's on both my mountain bike and my road bike. Is there any good reason to use road pedals instead?


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## pilotman520 (Oct 6, 2012)

Is there any reason not to use mountain pedals on a road bike? I use crankbrothers candy's on both my mountain bike and my road bike. Is there any good reason to use road pedals instead?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

pilotman520 said:


> Is there any reason not to use mountain pedals on a road bike? I use crankbrothers candy's on both my mountain bike and my road bike. Is there any good reason to use road pedals instead?


There's no rule. Use what works for you and meets your needs - mainly, assessing your need to walk in cycling shoes. 

IMO/E the main keys to success are in a well designed, well fitting shoe with a stiff sole, pedals with at least 6 degrees float and properly set up/ positioned cleats. 

Re: float, keep in mind that both too little and too much float can cause knee issues.


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## Buddy2 (Oct 6, 2012)

I'm new to cycling and could use some help deciding what shoes to buy. The pedals are compatible with Shimano sh51, sh52, sh55 and sh56 cleats. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what shoes will work here?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Buddy2 said:


> I'm new to cycling and could use some help deciding what shoes to buy. The pedals are compatible with Shimano sh51, sh52, sh55 and sh56 cleats. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what shoes will work here?


Any shoe that accepts 2-bolt (SPD) cleats will work.


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## xinque (Oct 3, 2012)

Another newcomer looking to switch over to clipless. Was wondering if changing out the platform pedals I'm using now to SPD-SL would require a seatpost or saddle adjustment? Trying to see what tools I'll need to install them besides a pedal wrench and some lube/grease. Thought I might need to invest in a torque wrench if I need to adjust the saddle and seatpost.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

xinque said:


> Another newcomer looking to switch over to clipless. Was wondering if changing out the platform pedals I'm using now to SPD-SL would require a seatpost or saddle adjustment? Trying to see what tools I'll need to install them besides a pedal wrench and some lube/grease. Thought I might need to invest in a torque wrench if I need to adjust the saddle and seatpost.


Depends on the shoe and pedal stack height, but IMO/E it's more likely you'll need a saddle adjustment than not. 

If you're inexperienced in cleat set up, I suggest considering tapping your LBS for assistance. If you decide to do it yourself, the link below will provide some guidance.

Bike Fit Fitting A Bicycle Seat Adjustment Height Reach Tips by Jim Langley
Specifically, #3. There's a link at the end with more info.

In addition to the pedal wrench and grease, you'll need the appropriate tool for cleat installation - commonly an allen key.

A member once posted that his torque wrench was in his wrist, and I can relate. IMO/E saddle/ post clamp bolts don't require a torque wrench. As always, YMMV.


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## xinque (Oct 3, 2012)

Thanks for the link PJ !

Have a set of allen keys already, but just seeing the max torque warnings all over the bike parts and in the pedal/cleat installation instructions even had me worried. New carbon bike and all, want to keep it in a good condition but learn how about components and wrenching at the same time..


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## rodzghost (Jun 20, 2012)

Not sure how "necessary" a pedal wrench is, IMO, since I get by just fine with my "regular" wrench. I guess it's not that expensive, and does make it a bit easier, but if you're not switching pedals often, it doesn't really make much sense to me buy one if you already have a set of metric wrenches. Just my 2 cents.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

xinque said:


> Thanks for the link PJ !
> 
> Have a set of allen keys already, but just seeing the max torque warnings all over the bike parts and in the pedal/cleat installation instructions even had me worried. New carbon bike and all, want to keep it in a good condition but learn how about components and wrenching at the same time..


It all comes down to having a sense (and feel) for how tight a bolt/ fastener should be tightened given it's load/ application. When used properly, torque wrenches can provide _some_ level of assurance, but as is the case of any tool, there's still room for 'operator error' as some posts here on RBR will attest.

All that said, if it makes you feel better, get a torque wrench. Just be sure it's calibrated and remember that it's still possible to over torque.


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## andorany (Sep 25, 2012)

So this ins't as much of a pedal question as a cleat question.

I've put a few hundred miles (ok, like 200ish) and I've started to notice a little wear on my cleats that came with the pedals I don't walk anymore than I have to with them, to the road, from the road, and stops. I feel like I still have plenty of time left on these but it did bring up the question...When do you replace the cleats? Are there cleats that last longer than others?


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Replace cleats when the cleat-to-pedal interface becomes too worn to do a proper job. Wear of the cleat where it meets the ground is of little worry unless of course it's excessive.

After a while you won't even bother looking at them.


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## crassostrea (Oct 19, 2012)

Just got my first road bike and am gonna get a few miles under my belt before I switch out to clipless. Looking forward to it though.


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## Canndyman (Sep 7, 2012)

Do not attempt your first track stand while clipped in................. just trust me on this one! :thumbsup:


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Mike T. said:


> After a while you won't even bother looking at them.


Took me over 3 years to stop looking at them. Saving me bunches on cleats! Also bought cleat covers for those times I know I'll be walking any real distance.


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## xinque (Oct 3, 2012)

So due to some terrible timing on my part, my first pair of clipless pedals arrives on the same day as my first set of rollers. Assuming I don't want to swap pedals back and forth, is it better to learn clipless first or the rollers using my platforms? Learning to use both at the same time sounds like an accident. >.>


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

xinque said:


> So due to some terrible timing on my part, my first pair of clipless pedals arrives on the same day as my first set of rollers. Assuming I don't want to swap pedals back and forth, is it better to learn clipless first or the rollers using my platforms? Learning to use both at the same time sounds like an accident. >.>


IMO it depends on your climate and how much 'on road' riding you have left. If you have enough time to road ride, go with clipless first, then by the time you head indoors you'll have them down pat. 

OTOH, if you're closing in on indoor training, shelve the clipless and focus on learning the rollers first, then when you have built some confidence/ skills, add clipless. 

But yes, learning both (IMO) is a recipe for disaster.


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

PJ352 said:


> But yes, learning both (IMO) is a recipe for disaster.


Do it anyway. Record the entire thing. Post on Youtube. Post link here.


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## tamato (Jul 19, 2008)

tlg said:


> I do the exact opposite. This is ok when first learning, but I think getting in the habit of uncliping early makes you less skilled in panic situations. I usually come to a complete stop and try to trackstand for a second before unclipping. And I don't use the same foot every time. You need to be confident in using either foot since you never know when a panic stop forces you to use your non standard foot.
> Eventually, you're going to face a situation when you can't plan your stop. Will you be ready?
> 
> OP, I suggest practicing trackstands. Being able to balance for just 2 seconds will greatly increase your confidence in using clipless pedals.


Great point on practicing both feet. I need to work on this, currently I only un-clip my right foot when coming to a stop. my left stays in the whole ride. But I can see where this could be problem in some situations.


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## Yukikaze (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks for all the tips. I will need to re-read this thread when my shoes and clipless pedals come in next week.


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

pilotman520 said:


> Is there any reason not to use mountain pedals on a road bike? I use crankbrothers candy's on both my mountain bike and my road bike. Is there any good reason to use road pedals instead?


I use Shimano SPD's on my Mtn bike and want to use the same shoes for the road bike. At least for now. I decided to get soem Shimano A520 pedals for the road bike. They use the same SPD cleat and work the same. 

Difference. The A520's are single sided and are 24% ligther. I tossed them on scale vs my mtn pedals and that seem what I remember. So I saved some weight and I got a larger platform. Seems like most Mtn pedals are just the attachment, but road pedals have a supportive platform. 

Anyway for my needs these seem like the perfect pedal. In time could go to a dediced road shoe and maybe "proper" road pedal, but for my need right now these are perfect.


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

andorany said:


> So this ins't as much of a pedal question as a cleat question.
> 
> I've put a few hundred miles (ok, like 200ish) and I've started to notice a little wear on my cleats that came with the pedals I don't walk anymore than I have to with them, to the road, from the road, and stops. I feel like I still have plenty of time left on these but it did bring up the question...When do you replace the cleats? Are there cleats that last longer than others?


My SPD cleats seem to last a long time. I have these on mtn bike shoes and when mtn biking there is an inevtiable hike a bike somewhere. This is often of uphils and covered with nasty rocks. Hey if were easy you would be riding right? Anyway these cleats take alot of scraps, but there seems to be no effect on how they work. 

I am not familar with tradtional road pedal cleats but I would not thing the would wear all that much.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

andorany said:


> So this ins't as much of a pedal question as a cleat question.
> 
> I've put a few hundred miles (ok, like 200ish) and I've started to notice a little wear on my cleats that came with the pedals I don't walk anymore than I have to with them, to the road, from the road, and stops. I feel like I still have plenty of time left on these but it did bring up the question...When do you replace the cleats? Are there cleats that last longer than others?


Question's a bit old, so maybe you're done thinking about this. As others have said, I replace cleats when they functioning well.

The reason I'm replying though is to add that some road cleat/shoe combinations leave the cleat very exposed. Some road cleats make some allowance for this and with some, one walks directly on a structural part of the cleat. Before I started using plastic covers for my Speedplays, I wore out a set just wearing away the metal bottom of the cleat from walking on it. It's also quite slick. I know there are covers available for LOOKs too, and one of the selling points of mountain bike systems is that with them, it's a non-issue.


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## xinque (Oct 3, 2012)

So been riding SPD-SLs for about a month now and I'm finding them hard to get out of even with tension set to lowest. I'm a relatively small guy and I find the the SLs tight and take more force than comfortable to get out of, have no problems with the actual unclipping motion. Don't have any knee or ankle pain yet but do find myself getting cramps earlier if i need to unclip and clip repeatedly in traffic. Know to unclip early but already fallen down twice so far due to cars/pedestrians suddenly stopping in front of me and not being able to unclip fast enough. So couple of questions:

1. Could someone recommend a clipless pedal that is super easy to get out of? Quick google search came up with the regular SPDs, and Speedplay Frogs or Light Actions, anyone have experience with these?

2. What to do when unclipping and leg starts to cramp?

3. Is it possible that I'm cramping earlier due to bad cleat setup?

Thanks !


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## CMJTperry (Oct 23, 2012)

Just bought new pedals as well. Lots of great info here and I appreciate all the input.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

xinque said:


> So been riding SPD-SLs for about a month now and I'm finding them hard to get out of even with tension set to lowest. I'm a relatively small guy and I find the the SLs tight and take more force than comfortable to get out of, have no problems with the actual unclipping motion. Don't have any knee or ankle pain yet but do find myself getting cramps earlier if i need to unclip and clip repeatedly in traffic. Know to unclip early but already fallen down twice so far due to cars/pedestrians suddenly stopping in front of me and not being able to unclip fast enough. So couple of questions:
> 
> 1. Could someone recommend a clipless pedal that is super easy to get out of? Quick google search came up with the regular SPDs, and Speedplay Frogs or Light Actions, anyone have experience with these?
> 
> ...


My SO uses Speedplay Frogs and has no problems clipping/ unclipping, but I wouldn't give up on your SPD-SL's just yet. You can dial back the adjustment a couple of notches past the 'minimum' mark, so something to consider. The rest is just a matter of practicing - no matter what pedals system used.

Re: cramps and unclipping, while anything's possible, I've never heard or read of any correlation between the two. Cramping can be caused by a number of factors, but unclipping (IME) isn't one. Try increasing electrolyte intake, reading up on dietary deficiencies and effects of overtraining - all (among others) can cause cramping.

Re: your #3 (bad cleat setup), again, anything is possible, but (generally speaking) incorrect cleat setup leads to knee/ hip problems, not cramping. If you haven't had the cleats set up by someone knowledgeable in bike fit (because cleat set up IS an integral part of it), you may want to have that done.

Just as a FYI, here's some info on cleat set up:
http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html

Once there, reference #3. There's a link to a cleat positioning page as well.


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## xinque (Oct 3, 2012)

Thanks as usual PJ !


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