# Removal of Dura Ace 7-speed Freehub



## Wheelspeed (Nov 3, 2006)

Hi folks,

I'm interested in removing my freehub to change some cogs around. Mine is 13-21 and it kills me on some of the steepest hills here in Pittsburgh.

Problem is I reviewed Harris Cyclery website, Park Tools, Jenson, Shimano, and some others, and can't find a removal tool that only has two pins. Does anyone recognize the tool I need from the pic below? Or, is that part with two holes just a dust cover, and I actually need a second chain-whip to get the smallest cog off and then remove the others? :idea:


----------



## steelbikerider (Feb 7, 2005)

The top cog screws on. You need 2 chain whips. You are right about the dust cover. Use a small punch and push on the push on the hole in the direction indicated. It will moveabout 1/4 " and then you can pop it off after removing teh axle nuts. Dave Hickey will probably respond and have links to diagrams showing all.


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

That might be a freewheel hub... I don't remember the freehubs having a dust cap

Look at the two pictures....If the rear hub body has a bulge, it's a freehub and you need to remove the smallest cog as Steelbikerider mentioned....If there isn't a bulge, you need to unscrew the entire freewheel


----------



## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

If it's a freewheel you're gonna need the correct freewheel removal tool. Be aware that it's not a one size fits all and make sure you get the one that fits your freewheel.
If it's gonna be a one time use any shop worth it's salt that's been around long enough should have the proper tool and be able to remove the freewheel for a coupla bucks. 
The tool's not needed to replace the freewheel, just spin it on with your hand and the action of pedaling will tighten it down. Be careful not to cross thread it when replacing and check to see if the freewheel's shimed out from the hub. It would be a thin shim, if any.

Park Tool Co. » FR-1 : Freewheel Remover : Freewheel & Cassette


----------



## Wheelspeed (Nov 3, 2006)

Dang, I feel stupid that I can't remember if there's a bulge or not. I guess I should clean my bike more.

I'll check tonight. Thank you for your help.


----------



## zmudshark (Jan 28, 2007)

That is a freehub. I have one in my hands. That is not a dustcap, it's a grease port. That's what the holes are for. Open is to open the grease port.

Dave your picture is of a later, 8 speed hub, note the 'mushroom' shaped nut on the NDS.


----------



## Wheelspeed (Nov 3, 2006)

Okay, mine has the bulge, but the DURA-ACE font is a bit different than in Dave's pic. Also, I found a snap-ring tool that fit the holes nicely, but the thing just spins around and around. So, what zmudshark said makes sense.

It looks like Dave's pic of the rear hub with a bulge says "Integrated"... and something else. Mine only says DURA-ACE.

So, do you guys think I'm back to needing two chain-whips? Then, once I remove the smallest cog, will the other cogs and spacers just slide off to let me change them at will?

-Thanks.


----------



## steelbikerider (Feb 7, 2005)

2 chain whips, the other cogs will slide off. You can use uniglide 7 or 8 speed or hyperglide 8 speed cogs to mix and match. It is a dust cap. My old 7400 hubs were like that before I converted to 8/9/10 speed. You will have to get a small screwdriver and pop off the cap after removing the axle nuts and cones. The cones will have a plastic seal that is fragile. The hubs will last a long time. Theyare still my main training wheels after 23 years


----------



## Wheelspeed (Nov 3, 2006)

steelbikerider said:


> 2 chain whips, the other cogs will slide off. You can use uniglide 7 or 8 speed or hyperglide 8 speed cogs to mix and match. It is a dust cap. My old 7400 hubs were like that before I converted to 8/9/10 speed. You will have to get a small screwdriver and pop off the cap after removing the axle nuts and cones. The cones will have a plastic seal that is fragile. The hubs will last a long time. Theyare still my main training wheels after 23 years


Thanks steelbikerider. Hey, since you seem to have been through this, can you confirm what I understood on the Harris Cyclery site that I can replace my 7 speed with 8-speed cogs and spacers and chain and shifter? That is, the 8 cogs and narrower spacers will fit in my 126mm frame spacing okay? (I don't want to cold set it.)


----------



## CleavesF (Dec 31, 2007)




----------



## steelbikerider (Feb 7, 2005)

No, the 7 speed and 8 speed spacers are the same. You can use the 8 speed cassette and make a 7-speed by leaving out a spacer and cog. PM me if you are interested. I might have enough to make a 13-23 cassette if you need it.


----------



## latman (Apr 24, 2004)

that is a uniglide cassette and that ring is just protection for the 1/4 in wheel bearings , if you want to remove the body (unneccessary to change cogs) you need to remove the left locknut /cone /axle and finally bearings and then you need a proprietry(sp?) tool to remove the freehub body . To change to 8 spd you will need a wider freehub body and will also need 4mm more spacers between cones and locknuts to get to 130mm OLD , probably also redish your back wheel and it all gets too hard.


----------



## Wheelspeed (Nov 3, 2006)

Thanks everyone.

Steelbikerider- I sent you a PM asking about a 23t cog by itself.

I don't think I feel like spending $300 on this upgrade, but, to clarify:
If I bought a 9 speed HG cogset like this 105: Shimano Cassette-Cog Set - 105 - $102.99, it appears to be individual cogs and spacers. I realize I'd have to file the large tooth down. Could I take out one cog and one spacer, and also replace the 13t cog and cap with my threaded 13t, and fit that 8-speed setup into my 126mm frame? I understand I would need a 9-speed shifter, and have to adjust the derailleur to only use 8.


----------



## merzcm (Mar 20, 2012)

*Dura Ace 7400 Freehub Removal Tool*

Hi all,

Does anyone own (or know where to get) the old Dura Ace 7400 Freehub removal tool? I think it was part SH-TL-FH10.

The two shops here in DFW I visited looked at me like i was nuts when I asked if they still had the tool.

Failing that, has anyone ever overhauled one or have any recommendations, parts diagrams etc

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## latman (Apr 24, 2004)

I thought you "only" had to remove the axle/bearings/dustcap etc and reach in with a big allen key to undo the bolt that holds the steel freehub body to the alloy hub body


----------



## merzcm (Mar 20, 2012)

latman said:


> I thought you "only" had to remove the axle/bearings/dustcap etc and reach in with a big allen key to undo the bolt that holds the steel freehub body to the alloy hub body


Well you are correct except that the older Dura Ace 7400 series uses a special tool to remove the Freehub body.

Expensive and somewhat hard to find even when in production 20 years ago.


----------

