# Is stepping up worth the money?



## Leadrunner (Mar 10, 2014)

First, let me say that I am an old guy, 69 in May. I have been riding for about 18 months (not so much last couple of cold months). I typically ride 10 to 15 miles three times a week with another 10-15 casual group ride on Saturday. I have done about half a dozen rally rides (25-30 miles). I still struggle some with climbing, but what the heck, so do a lot of people. My bike is a 2013 KHS Flite 223, and I am very comfortable on it. I would like to step up to a better bike because I intend to keep riding further and faster. My problem is that I don't know if spending another $2K is going to be worth it. Will a more expensive bike really make that much difference? Opinions, please. I am not a tight wad, but hey, $2,000 is $2,000.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

If I had $2000 I would buy a bike. Unless my wife found out I had $2000 then she would take it and do somethong responsible with it. Buy the bike before your wife finds out you have the money and make sure it isn't returnable. The right answer to "should I buy a bike?" is always yes...


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## config (Aug 16, 2002)

My suggestion is to visit your LBS and test ride a few of their bikes. That is the only way to see if it makes a difference for you compared to your current ride.

I would imagine you would feel a difference. Great job on your riding and keep it up (regardless of what you end up doing).


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You're the only person who can decide if it's worth it. It depends on how much money you have and how you want to spend it.

There's no reason you can't ride more on your current bike while you are thinking about a new one.

Few road bikes these days have triple cranks. They can be had but you may need to get the LBS to swap them on, and it'll add to the price.


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## ScooterDobs (Nov 26, 2010)

I'd recommend staying with what you have for a bit longer. I upgraded from an old '90s Trek with downtube shifters to a 2007 bottom of the line Giant OCR3 from Craig's list. After a lot of miles I am very comfortable on the bike and keep up quite well with friends on more expensive and newer bikes. I put 2500 miles on it last year and am shooting for 4000 this year. I do get bike envy at times but then ride 75 miles on the bike and am reminded how comfortable I am on it. I can't say a carbon bike wouldn't be more comfortable or better but I figure with my goals, fitness and the ability to do a couple centuries each year, this is fine for me. If you do decide to I think the recommendation of using the LBS would be a good place to start. 

Nice job getting out and riding. I'm 52 and have been back on a bike for 4 years. Riders on this forum older than me inspire me and keep me riding.


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## milkbaby (Aug 14, 2009)

Great job on the riding. If you're OK with spending $2000 for a luxury like a vacation, then why not a bicycle?

Your current bike is entry level but quite rideable. I almost bought one of those used as a rainy day commuter bike. Since you're comfortable on your current bike, the one thing that the new bike might improve is comfort from dampening the road buzz with a carbon fork. You'll get a few more gears in back to stay in a smaller more comfortable pedaling cadence range. The frame might be a little more comfortable to ride depending on the design.

At $2000 that's about three times what your current bike cost new, so will a new bike be three times better? "Better" isn't entirely quantifiable, but I think you'll get more like a 30% improvement in your riding experience versus a 300% increase in cost.

I agree with config above that you should visit a few bike shops and test ride a few bikes to see if you like them better. They won't necessarily make you any faster, but if you're more comfortable or if you just like a new bike better, it can make you enjoy riding more and that is worth investing in. Good luck!


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

No; not for the kind of riding you do.

Take the $2k IF it's burning a hole in your pocket and go to a cycling training camp, where you'll learn all sorts of tips and tricks to make those hills easier.

Otherwise, save the money. You can't buy happiness, but you'll certainly find it-in a ride.


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

^^^ This one, in the big picture you aren't doing much riding.
From your end you claim to be an old guy.
Let's put it in perspective.
103-year-old Robert Marchand celebrates birthday by climbing the col that bears his name | road.cc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ijAsqPTPAk


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

I'm with the guys who say hold off a while.

I fully understand that 45-60 miles a week feels like a lot, but it's well within the range of an entry-level bike.

If you plan on upping your game, then step up your ride. If that's the plan, I'd skip the $2K level because you'll be in that grey area between where there's a mix-and-match of components, and generally lower-level wheels in order to hit the price point. The better components will be on cheaper frames, and the better frames will have budget components.

Hold out for around $3K, plus or minus, for a decent carbon frame, full Ultegra, and mid-level wheels.

Upping your game is certainly within the realm of doability. Second only to the actual racers, the guys in my club who are the strongest and fastest riders are the retirees. I'm in my late 50s and ride daily, 150-200 miles a week in-season, only 50 or so this time of year. Those guys will rip my legs off while smiling and chatting along the way. (I love riding with them for the challenge, and aspire to ride like they do after retirement.) They put in every day, more miles than you're currently doing in a week. 

And yes, those guys are on $3K-$4K bikes, as are mine.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Leadrunner said:


> Will a more expensive bike really make that much difference?


Only you know your financial situation and what $2k is worth to you. 

You really need to define what "that much of a difference" means. Suppose I tell you that a new bike will make you 1mph faster over your ride. Is that much difference and worth $2k?. (You'll be lucky to gain 1mph)

If the new bike is more comfortable, looks cool, makes you happy and ride more; is that much difference and worth $2k?


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## High Side (Mar 6, 2015)

Your KHS probably weighs 23 pounds. if you upgraded to a 17 pound carbon bike it will feel like it has a motor in comparison. Also, you probably have the very low end of components and and 8 speed drivetrain. An upgraded bike will not only be lighter but have better gearing, shift smoother, etc


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Speed performance wise, not worth it. Other performance wise, probably not worth it compared to buying just tires, better saddle ect or whatever would help you.

But as long as you figure you have enough experience to know what geo and bike style you're after and would nail it with the next buy.....go for it. If new bikes were just about speed there'd be no reason to even make anything above entry level (bit of an exaggeration there but not much). What to heck though, having a nice bike is about enjoying it and treating yourself under the justification that it's an investment in health. Don't kid youself about buying speed but the saying 'money can't buy happiness' doesn't apply to bikes as long as you get the right one.

I'm a decent cyclist but my ability/cost of bike ratio is way out of whack. Worth every penny IMO (but keep in mind a big factor there is that my bike fits my style and body perfectly not just that it's high end)


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

High Side said:


> Your KHS probably weighs 23 pounds. if you upgraded to a 17 pound carbon bike it will feel like it has a motor in comparison.


A motor huh? How much faster will that motor make him?
And $2k will likely put him in the 18-19lb range.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

High Side said:


> Your KHS probably weighs 23 pounds. if you upgraded to a 17 pound carbon bike it will feel like it has a motor in comparison. Also, you probably have the very low end of components and and 8 speed drivetrain. An upgraded bike will not only be lighter but have better gearing, shift smoother, etc


Absolutely NOT on the motor idea. Do not buy this in the least. Due respect to High Side.

I ride in groups with one of several bikes of steel of age and in the 25 lb range.
I also ride one of a few carbon bikes, my Scott is 15 lbs. The only appreciable performance difference is ease of getting it up to speed repeatedly in a faster fashion a little easier. READ: closing gaps. Not really anything one might consider needed outside of racing. I don't even climb better on the light bike.
But I am 210+ lb too.

As to modern component and better closer gearing [ratios], You Bet! 100% agree there.. Shifters integrated into the brake levers is one of those luxuries I consider a necessary luxury to be sure. A few of my steel bike mentioned have bar end shifters, I just avoid down tube in group rides, if yo old bike is even DT shifters.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I am a tightwad, but within reason. Your current bike is a entry level bike but you did good buying it because it is a steel bike and will last a long time except the components are lower end and may fail which is something you don't want happening when you're 50 miles from home trying to do a century ride.

$2000 can buy you a very nice bike if you're not afraid of mail order. In fact, depending on you're needs, you can even get a nicely equipped bike made of titanium which would be a frame material that would last a lifetime and then some, be more comfortable riding than any other material, be almost as light as carbon but lighter than aluminum or steel.

Here is a road version of TI bike I'm speaking of: Save Up To 60% Off Titanium Road Bikes and Bicycles from bikesdirect.com

If you want a bike that can do road plus some mild off road or just want a more comfortable ride with larger volumn tires then there is this: Save Up To 60% Off Titanium Cyclocross Bicycles | Road Bikes - Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium | Cross Bikes (this one they're low on stock on but they have other TI cross bikes)

If you know anything about the cost of a TI bike you know that those prices are at least 1/2 of what it would cost you through a well known maker like Litespeed or Lynskey (Lynskey created Litespeed) etc.

If you decide to go this route do know you have to put the bike somewhat together when you get it, you have to install the pedals, handlebars, seat, and wheels. Most people even with rudimentary mechanical skills can spend about 45 minutes doing this and get it right. If you can't do it a bike shop can for about $175 range; if you can do it then I would highly recommend after you get it together to take it to your bike shop and have them go through everything before you ride it to make sure everything is greased, bolts are torqued to specs, components are adjusted correctly, and the wheels are trued and tensioned correctly, this usually cost around $60.

They do include free pedals (and free shipping to the lower 48 states), I've heard that the pedals are so so, if you have a better pair just use those and sell the new ones or keep them for another bike. 

I have a friend who has the road version of the Motobecane TI bike with Dura Ace instead of Ultegra though and I've ridden that bike several times and can tell you it's more than very nice bike for what you pay for it. This bike should take you till you're at least 100 years old so you can beat the 1 hour record set by a 102 year old this year. This is what you have to look forward to: 102-year old Robert Marchand beats own hour record | Cyclingnews.com


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## plag (Apr 30, 2007)

I would probably save a little more and get a nicer bike.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

If you're not sure it's worth it, it probably isn't.

I'm a lot younger than you. I got into this as a sport in college with an inexpensive mountain bike and a nice but too-big road bike. That was a long time ago now - I finished high school in 1999.

I've ended up with a few bikes, like a lot of us, and there are some I haven't kept.

For me, what really drives it are three things. Does the bike fit my body? Does it do the job I want it to do? Do I like the way it rides?

I did blow $2000 on the mountain bike I race, also the bike I've put the most hours on since buying it. I rode something similar at a demo day and it grabbed me. I saved some money staying on-brand. I mention this because I want to say I'm not opposed to spending $2000 on a bicycle if I think it will give me some joy.

My favorite road bike has an aluminum frame, steel fork, Tiagra shifters, and a mish-mash of other parts to round out the build, notably "my" handlebars, a saddle I like, gearing I like, kickass (but inexpensive!) brakes and one of a couple sets of fancy tires depending on whether I'm riding it on asphalt or dirt. My previous 'A' road bike had fancier everything but I could never quite get it to fit. It wasn't worth it to me to cannibalize, so I gave it to my brother complete and kept the one that fits me.

Kind of a lot of rambling, but I have a point. If you can afford a $2000 bike and you think you'll enjoy it, go for it. But if you need me to sell you on it, meh. The bike should be able to sell itself. And until either a new bike grabs you or something comes up with your current bike that messes with your enjoyment, I think you may as well leave that $2000 right where it is.

If you haven't nailed the fit, do that. And I'm a total sucker for fancy tires.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

plag said:


> I would probably save a little more and get a nicer bike.


Or consider the used market. Generally you can get a used bike for 1/3 to 1/2 what they cost new.


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

I would perhaps suggest a different wheelset and tires first. Something like the Flo 30 or Shimano RS 80/81 C24 wheels and 23mm or 25mm road tires. I personally like the Schwalbe One 25mm. Also invest is proper fitment but otherwise I would say ride more before major upgrades. Regardless of the bike, it's 90% motor


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## CrankyCarbon (Dec 17, 2014)

Cost aside.
When you test ride bikes at your LBS it's all about what YOU like. 
What will make you ride more and more comfortably.

We don't know how well your current bike fit is, or how well it's adjusted or really anything about it other than the make and model.

A new bike which may be lighter, feel faster to you and get your going better is a gigantic morale boost. Going faster is more about the person when you get right down to it. But the bike helps 

Many ppl buy new bikes (or wheels, and tons of parts) even when they don't have the money. 

So I say go for it, no one's getting any younger.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

For me, new wheels would be a pretty poor value unless something was actively wrong with my existing wheels. People often say "wheels and tires" in the same phrase. So I wonder how many people have done wheels but stuck with existing tires.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> So I wonder how many people have done wheels but stuck with existing tires.


I have. Did you have a question?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I have too. So nope.


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## plag (Apr 30, 2007)

I think I screw around with bike parts more than actual riding lol


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## BigPoser (Jan 11, 2013)

Winn said:


> If I had $2000 I would buy a bike. Unless my wife found out I had $2000 then she would take it and do somethong responsible with it. Buy the bike before your wife finds out you have the money and make sure it isn't returnable. The right answer to "should I buy a bike?" is always yes...



Repped! That was super funny and yet very true.


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## 70sSanO (Feb 16, 2015)

Okay here is my take...

I'm 63 and I ride similar to you except maybe a little more miles along with some mountain biking. As a reference point my bike is a 1988, 7 speed Dura Ace equipped and probably weighs around 22 lbs.

I have found that over the years that trying to average 20mph, or even 15mph these days, on a ride is no longer a priority nor is pushing big gears to the max. What I have found is a wider range of gearing slanted toward the smaller chainrings and a larger cog or 2 in the back makes a big difference. With the number of miles you are riding and as you age the climbing will only get a little tougher and gearing down does help.

For me a good handling bike that is quick but not sketchy with good components seems to be the right mix. And I will echo the comments that if you upgrade, it is more important to get a great frame than just losing a few pounds. Don't let anyone fool you that it will flatten out those hills.

There is also big difference between riding, even riding at a fast pace, and racing where every gear optimizes your performance. That is why 10 or 11 speed is great for maxing out your riding. I don't know about your riding, but I don't need to fill in the gaps in my cassette range.

If I had $2000 to spend, I'd probably go the titanium route and 9 speed Dura Ace, maybe a triple crank, and be close to 20lbs but just glide along over those bumps.

John


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

If you where my brother, father, son this is what I would do.

I would either build or buy you a set of wheels that did not have MTN bike rims.
Either a used set of Open Pro on higher end hubs, or even maybe a really lighter wheelset still fitting well into the durable category. Double Butted spoke and normal 3 cross 32 or maybe 28 spoke depending on girth. A really nice wheelset would easily go on the next bike should you decide later to buy something else.
You could just put back the original wheels on the KHS and sell it or keep it for what ever reason or not yada...

I would get some new tires in the 75 grams less weight each than the tires that came on that machine. 25C probably like a Rubino pro or similar. Maybe Conti All Season Gran Prix 28C if you want something that flats reasonably infrequently and lasts reasonably.

I would put a 11-30 Cassette, and if the triple cranks have a smaller bolt circle for the granny which I believe it does, I would get a 26 tooth chain ring on the granny. I'd also explore saddles and comfort/weight there as well. Another thing that could move onto another bike easily...

None of that coin spent would be lost if you do get another bike as this stuff could go on that as I said. Except the granny ring maybe.

Net gain, the bike would handle hills improved fashion and feel more responsive overall. It would be lighter as well, less significant issue IMO.

If that did not satisfy you, I would then help look for another bike for you.


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## Johnnybravo (Feb 3, 2009)

brucew said:


> I'm with the guys who say hold off a while.
> 
> I fully understand that 45-60 miles a week feels like a lot, but it's well within the range of an entry-level bike.
> 
> ...


I totally agree with Brucew. I've spent only 1K on a new Felt that was on sale. It has Shimano 105 components and I'm very happy with it. If I were to upgrade my bike I would have to justify the money put into it. Then again it is your money


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

70sSanO said:


> Okay here is my take...
> 
> I'm 63 and I ride similar to you except maybe a little more miles along with some mountain biking. As a reference point my bike is a 1988, 7 speed Dura Ace equipped and probably weighs around 22 lbs.
> 
> ...


I agree with this as well, which is why I mentioned considering the titanium bikes at Bikes Direct in my earlier post. As you get older you appreciate a bike that glides over the road instead of banging over the road and steel, and especially TI, does that while still providing more than adequate stiffness for out of the saddle hammering.

The gearing thing that 70sSano mentioned I didn't consider but after reading what he said I believe there is some truth to his advice. I've been riding for 40 years and got my last new bike in 2013 at the age of 59 with standard compact gearing and have no problems using the gears but I no longer live in a mountainous area like I did over 13 years ago in California, if I lived in California today I may have thought more about the gearing when I got that bike...which was a titanium bike by the way, for its ride quality and I haven't been disappointed.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

This has been an interesting thread. It is very hard to quantify what a new bike will do for somebody.
Will it make you faster? Not likely. Can it be more comfortable? Definitely. Can it absorb more of the road? Definitely. Can it reignite passion to ride? Sure.

I bought my last new road bike to try to absorb more of the road. The extra 10%-15% difference means a lot when you are fighting off a hip and glute tear. I do not advocate buying a bike just to buy a bike but there are many reasons that do make sense.


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## AMG_Roadster (Sep 26, 2014)

For me it was worth the money to upgrade. My upgraded bike was ~$2800 more than my original bike. It has been worth every penny. It feels, rides, and handles better. I am faster on the bike (given being in comparable shape) and feel more comfortable. I also think the bike looks a lot better.

The new bike is 8-9 years newer and technology has clearly evolved.

I think it was worth the upgrade. But that is me. I have friends that ride old steel bikes and love them. Sure I am faster but outside of feeding my ego/competitiveness and placing better on a Strava segment and grabbing a KOM or two it really does not get me anything. No one is paying you to be faster.


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## Leadrunner (Mar 10, 2014)

Decided not to step up. Had an opportunity to buy an $1800 bike for around $1300, but still didn't pull the trigger. As some of the guys said, if it still feels good, why make the change. I did, however, change the cassette. Went from the stock 12-25 to an 11-32. Have a triple crank and haven't really had an opportunity to use the 11, but the 32 really makes a difference on climbs. Not fast, but just put the head down and do one spin at a time. Also, working on pulling as well as pushing. Never too old to learn. Thanks to all of you for the input. Don't think I will make it this year, but hoping to do the Hotter N Hell 100 for my 70th birthday.


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## Leadrunner (Mar 10, 2014)

Scooter, I like your little saying at the bottom. When I started riding back in the fall of 2013, I had been a smoker for fifty years. Personally, I think this cycling thing has saved my life. Just gotta say, I love it.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Didn't weigh in before, but my opinion is to always hold off and don't buy a "better" bike for the sake of buying a better bike. Budget the money, keep it in your back pocket. I've seen a couple of really sweet deals in the last few off seasons that If I had the extra cash I probably would have jumped on. You have time to be patient.


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## Leadrunner (Mar 10, 2014)

Didn't make the leap. Had opportunity to move up about $1300, but stayed with what felt good and familiar. Did change out the cassette. Went from stock 12-25 to an 11-32, and with the triple crank, it really helps with climbing. Maybe next year we'll step up. Plus, have to take the bride on a trip this summer for 50th anniversary. That may be a safer investment.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Good decision.

Don't be afraid to visit some demo days. They may just make you feel more solid in your decision, or something might grab you. Seems like you're in a place where either outcome is fine.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

Leadrunner said:


> Didn't make the leap. Had opportunity to move up about $1300, but stayed with what felt good and familiar. Did change out the cassette. Went from stock 12-25 to an 11-32, and with the triple crank, it really helps with climbing. Maybe next year we'll step up. Plus, have to take the bride on a trip this summer for 50th anniversary. That may be a safer investment.


is this how it really went down? Did you tell your old lady you had $2000? Did she take it and do something responsible with it?

Seriously I'm glad you're enjoying your ride. I waited 3 years to pull the trigger on my new one. I did a lot of drooling and rode a lot of bikes before I ended up with the one that gave me the nubikitis in the first place. Take your time if nothing is knocking your socks off.


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