# What is faster than Giant Cypress Dx and almost as comfortable?



## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

Could anyone please recommend to me a bike like the Giant Cypress DX (24 speed) that is faster and lighter and almost as comfortable? 

I am looking for comfort, versatility and speed. I am trying to stay in a budget of $550 new or $350 used. I will mostly ride on pavement, sidewalks, light gravel (rail-trails). I will a ride a little on smooth grass (camping) and rarely on hard-packed dirt trails.
I think <EDIT: my friend's> Giant Cypress is amazingly comfortable and fun but with so little weight on the front tire I think it might be a bit dangerous on some turns. Though I can adjust the stem forward I suppose...

I guess I am looking for 700x35c tires and a 24 speed. What is the best way to reduce a little comfort compared to the Cypress but get 'a lot' more speed? Is the best way to get rid of the suspension fork and use 38c tires and put on soft/better grips and use gel gloves? (I don't really want to wear gloves or padded shorts). Or is that going to be 'way' less comfortable for only a 1 mph speed gain? 

What are some bike models that you would recommend? We have Giant, Trek, Specialized dealers near by for example. The Giant Cypress ST seems inexpensive, but only has 21 speeds but does have a rigid fork. I am not considering 21-speeds as I think I will want the 24 speeds when I am racing the odd time with buddies on a flat road.


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## Sylint (Jul 27, 2009)

comfortflyer said:


> Could anyone please recommend to me a bike like the Giant Cypress DX (24 speed) that is faster and lighter and almost as comfortable?
> 
> I am looking for comfort, versatility and speed. I am trying to stay in a budget of $540 new or $350 used. I will mostly ride on pavement, sidewalks, light gravel (rail-trails). I will a ride a little on smooth grass (camping) and rarely on hard-packed dirt trails.
> I think the Giant Cypress is amazingly comfortable and fun but with so little weight on the front tire I think it might be a bit dangerous on some turns. Though I can adjust the stem forward I supose...
> ...



Have you thought about putting a rigid fork on the bike you currently have?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Bad news. If sitting upright is comfortable for you, there's no faster bike. Most power losses on a bicycle are from the rider pushing air. You can do a few things to improve the mechanical efficiency of the bike - the rigid fork, and narrower tires would both improve things a little. If you have a suspension seat post, switch to a rigid one. But most of the problem is you.

When you're ready to ride in a more athletic position and on drop bars, it's going to "faster" you quite a lot. I don't think you'll get the result you want from a different flat bar bike, however.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Bad news. If sitting upright is comfortable for you, there's no faster bike. Most power losses on a bicycle are from the rider pushing air. You can do a few things to improve the mechanical efficiency of the bike - the rigid fork, and narrower tires would both improve things a little. If you have a suspension seat post, switch to a rigid one. But most of the problem is you.
> 
> When you're ready to ride in a more athletic position and on drop bars, it's going to "faster" you quite a lot. I don't think you'll get the result you want from a different flat bar bike, however.


Well said,

The only thing that will make that bike faster is you.

Now pedal man, pedal.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

Not considering it. I would like to keep my mountain bike. I currently have a front suspension Schwinn Mesa GS mountain bike (with seat post suspension that died so now no suspension) with maybe 24 inch wide knobby tires. It is only a 21 speed and slow compared to when I am biking with my friend who has a 2010 Giant Cypress 21 speed.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Unless your MTB was a child's model, it should have 26" wheels. I had a Mesa when I was in college. Loved that bike!

I'm a little confused now, though. Do you also have a Cypress? Or were you asking about a bike that will be faster than your friend's Cypress?

Mountain bike knobbies have a pretty high rolling resistance, enough to effect your speed. If you don't go off-road, substituting some road slicks will make the bike a lot more efficient.

The number of cogs is a non-issue. I hit some very high speeds on a bike I have that has only one. Probably my highest speeds not on a hill, actually. Unless you actually run out of gears, it's not your drivetrain.

At the end of the day, there are two ways to make a bike go faster. Generate more power, or throw away less of it. If you want to "buy speed" you can switch to slick tires and when you're ready, you can switch to an actual road bike. Anything else isn't going to make nearly as much of a difference.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

You are right - I measured the tires tread to tread = 25.5 inch - that makes it a 26" tire I believe. I do not own a Cypress - just admiring my friend's Cypress.

What bike do you think is faster? A Cypress with 38 or 40c tires with stock rigid fork or Cypress DX stock (35c tires and front suspension) ?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I don't think you're getting this.

From BSNYC, "Bikes aren't fast. People are fast. Bikes are overpriced."

Bikes can put the rider in a better position for developing power and pushing less air, and they can suffer less rolling resistance, air drag, and other mechanical losses. Within a group of road bikes that are in good mechanical shape and fit their riders correctly, these differences are negligible. Which is why pros can switch bikes and teams every couple years and if there's an effect on their results, it's usually something else. Gaining or losing a leadout train, a better off-season, stuff like that.

With both bikes you're describing, it will be a fight to put the rider in a good position. All other losses are actually very small compared to air drag across the rider's body, unless one has knobbies, which are pretty lossy. So if one sucks less than the other, it'll be marginal.

If you want to go faster, pedal faster. If you're somewhere north of 90 rpm and you're having trouble pedaling smoothly, shift to a higher gear. I don't know what your fitness level's like. How long are your rides? Do you pedal continuously? If riding fast and in comfort is something you're interested in, a road bike is definitely a better tool, when you're ready for it. It doesn't take much to be ready for a real road bike. I think if someone can pedal continuously for a half hour, he's probably ready. But the point of the equipment is really to facilitate what the rider is doing.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

@AndrwSwitch - You are probably right BUT yet... I can't help but thinking that if what you say is true I am pretty sure I can run faster and longer without a 2-3 pound weight around my waist... Which MIGHT be the difference between a Cypress with a rigid fork versus a Cypress with a suspension fork ...No?

I would like a bike that is comfortable and then fast in that order - To me that means the comfortable handlebars need to be above the height of the seat and then part way through my ride (without getting off the bike) I want to be able to quickly change it to the same level as my seat if I want to go faster and be more stable. Also bumps should be cushioned somewhat for sidewalks as me and my family do use them.

I would love to hear bicycle recommendations on what is faster than a Giant Cypress for $550 ish and almost as comfortable re: bumps and handlebar height options.. I believe the Giant Cypress DX is 31 pounds in weight.

I am 40 yrs old, 6 foot one, 186 pounds and in pretty good shape and I do like going fast, but I confess I don't do it very much. Maybe/hopefully that will change but I don't want to buy a bike for rarely racing at this point.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

comfortflyer said:


> @AndrwSwitch - You are probably right BUT yet... I can't help but thinking that if what you say is true I am pretty sure I can run faster and longer without a 2-3 pound weight around my waist... Which MIGHT be the difference between a Cypress with a rigid fork versus a Cypress with a suspension fork ...No?


Nope. Not until you climb something. Even then, not very much. At 186 lb, you and a bike are a system weight over 200 lb. Shedding a little weight but staying within the class of hybrids and comfort bikes is less than a 1% change in system weight. I'd probably find the suspension a little annoying if it sort-of worked because of the bounce.

When you go for a run, there's extra metabolic cost just in being on your feet. When you ride a bike, you have the option of putting the weight on the bike. It slows handling slightly, but that's about it as far as perceptible differences. Measurable differences are likely to be below the "noise floor" of daily variations in how strong you are. I usually put about 3 lb of water on my bike before I start a ride, and I can't say I can tell a difference except for when I'm actually lifting the bike. I also commute by bike, so some days, I have a pannier with a bunch of crap in it. I can tell the difference in handling, but I have to have quite a lot of stuff in it for it to actually slow me down. More like 20 lb.

I think a lot of people don't understand setup for road bikes. Nobody's holding a gun to your head and making you put the handlebars lower than the saddle. Actually, a lot of the purpose of the handlebars is what you just described - when I'm just riding along, I usually put my hands up near the hoods. When I want to go faster, I get down in the drops. That's what they're for. I use bar ends on my mountain bike for similar reasons. FWIW, on my three most-ridden bikes, the saddle and bar clamp are quite close to level. I do like a little drop, but I do a little racing in MTB, 'cross and track and often ride with road racers. Other riders like more drop than me, but they're my bikes; I'll set them up how I please. (And you have that freedom too.)

I rode a Torker Interurban in December when I killed my previous commute bike. It's a basic steel bike with a compact crank and Shimano 2300 shifters and derailleurs. It was selling for $600 at the time. A lot of companies will have a base-level entry for your price. I actually liked a few of Torker's choices, but they're not a big brand and may not be available to you.

Visit some shops and hop on some road bikes. Tell the sales people that you don't want to have a slamthatstem.com-wannabe setup - you're looking for something that you can be happy with JRA. Since you've already got a flat bar bike, if you find it gives up something to your other one when you're riding with the family, you can just stick with that.

Being faster is a whole package, and most of it is about your fitness. The bike is just a tool. The point of the road bike is that you don't have to fight the bike when you open up your throttle. Which is mostly about riding position.


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## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

You could go to a bike store and try out a road bike. You might be surprised to find that they are pretty comfortable. I didn't think I would ever have a road bike, but now it's all I ride.

They aren't designed for gravel trails, though. A cyclocross bike might be just what you want. With narrow road tires, it's good on the road, but it'll also fit wider tires.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

Well I went to a bike store today and actually tried some bikes this time.
I will start to answer my original question "What is faster than a Giant Cypress DX and almost as comfortable? So far in my research that kind of bike, to me, is the Specialized Crosstail (45c tires) and even more so, I think will be the 2011 Norco XFR 3 (32 lbs) or XFR 4 (29 lbs) that I plan to try this weekend as it has 38c tires.

These kind of 'hybrid' bikes are very versatile and are between a comfort-bike, a MTB and a road bike in my opinion.
1. They have cyclo-cross gearing (so I don't run out of gears like I do with MTB gearing and Giant Cypress gearing).
With the Giant Cypress I was using gears 15 to 21 the entire time on my test ride!
2. Generally it was much faster than the Giant Cypress, and the gears shifted much better, and I could gain speed much faster.
3. No seat post suspension
4. Some models can lock-out the front suspension.
5. Has a smaller, harder and lighter seat so you feel bumps more, but I would change the seat.
6. Handlebars are lower than a comfort bike but still generally higher than the seat.

The only thing it lacked IMO was an adjustable stem. I want the handlebars to go lower sometimes for speed (even height with the seat) and I want the handlebars maybe 3 inches higher for leisure rides. They ended up putting a 3" riser on the stem on the Specialized crosstail and it was pretty good. I also might attach my aluminum "bull horn" add-on to the handlebars, or whatever you call them, so I can go even lower and rest on my forearms for the rare race and to change it up a bit to save the back.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

I think I now know why my mountain bike was so uncomfortable to me.
I bought the Norco Mesa aluminum GS for about $45 from a guy who was moving to Europe and was just trying to get rid of it. When I straddle the bike I have 4.5 inch clearance to my inseam (35 inches) ! And I just figured out my handlebar grips (top) are 2 inches lower than my seat top! I am hunched over too much I think and the grips are just a layer of rubber around the handle bars - no ergonomics there.

I think the bike shop saleslady said I need 1 to 2 inches clearance over the bar when straddling a bike. Does that sound right? 

So my latest theory is that if I can get a proper sized bike like the Norco XFR 3 or 4 with 35c or 38c tires and a stem that has adjustable height and angle I should be good. That would hopefully give me the option of having the handlebar grip tops 2" lower than the seat top and 3.5" higher than the seat top for comfort. Sound good?

If it is a good idea, it would be awesome if the stem angle was a quick release kind of a thing.. but.. the saleslady said that was a bad idea....


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

You realize that adjustable stems aren't meant to be moved up and down during a ride, right? The ones that have a pivot and a bolt wear out quickly enough as it is with normal usage. (Normal usage = find a comfortable angle and leave it there) Actually changing the setting all of the time would wear the thing out in a few months.

Jamis is the only bike I know of that has something that might work. The stem on the many Jamis models slides up and down on a keyed sleeve. You loosen one bolt and slide the stem up or down and tighten the bolt.

The real question though is....WHY? Sorry, but this is about the silliest thing I've ever heard.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

Good to know about wearing out of the adjustable stem and the Jamis model thanks! So you are saying that I actually need a bike with a special sleeve! I guess I can't just buy the whatever stem I want then...

Why? Because I would like a versatile bike. Comfortable when I want and fast when I want - and at this point I am thinking comfort is more important than speed. To me, comfort means handle-bar height is higher than the seat with MTB style handlebar and grips, but since speed primarily is gained by less wind resistance ( I have learned) I need to get lower on occasion to go faster and then would lower my handlebars.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

@PlatyPius are you talking about the Jamis Allegro X Sport or the higher models - sounds like the higher models?
2011 JAMIS BICYCLES - SPECIFICATIONS

The description for the stem is: Jamis Trekking, 3D forged alloy, 10º rise x 90mm (15-17”), 110mm (19-23”) 

The Jamis Allegro X Comp and Jamis Allegro X Elite has this stem Description: 
NVO Components TM-3 adjustable threadless system (ATS) forged aluminum stem, 10º x 90mm (15-17”), 105mm (19/21”), 115mm (23”). ATS shim length 100mm 

Is this the comparable bike to the Norco XFR 3 or 4? 

Thanks.
P.S. Do you sell Jamis bikes?


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## Jwiffle (Mar 18, 2005)

PlatyPius said:


> You realize that adjustable stems aren't meant to be moved up and down during a ride, right? The ones that have a pivot and a bolt wear out quickly enough as it is with normal usage. (Normal usage = find a comfortable angle and leave it there) Actually changing the setting all of the time would wear the thing out in a few months.
> 
> Jamis is the only bike I know of that has something that might work. The stem on the many Jamis models slides up and down on a keyed sleeve. You loosen one bolt and slide the stem up or down and tighten the bolt.
> 
> The real question though is....WHY? Sorry, but this is about the silliest thing I've ever heard.


Giant Rapid used to have a similar stem as the Jamis mentioned, but looking at Giant's website, it appears they have moved away from it.

to the OP: I can understand what you are looking for, but honestly, hybrids are meant to be comfortable, not fast. However, that does not mean that fast bikes are not meant to be comfortable -- BUT it often takes getting used to fast bikes before they feel comfortable.

I would probably recommend something like the Giant Roam - not as upright as the Cypress, but not quite as aggressive as road bike, and you can outfit fairly wide tires on them. A little suspension, with lockout, so you'll get some of the comfort as the Cypress.

Or get the Cypress DX for now, then later get another bike for when you want to hammer faster.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

My bike has unlimited speed! The faster I pedal, the faster it goes!


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## SOME_1_ELSE_1999 (Apr 22, 2011)

After reading this post and thinking very hard about it all, I know exactly what you need!!

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-g...T-BOLT-ON-EXTENSION-AERO-BAR-wholesalers.html

bolt something like that onto your existing bike and your speed will most definatly increase. you wont have to move or adjust any thing since you can use the flat bars for comfort and the areo bars for speed.


Add to that a set of tires simmilar to these (Ie. no knobs a lot slicker but not too slick you cant ride a rail trail.

http://www.maxxis.com/Bicycle/Hybrid/Overdrive.aspx

and your speed will go up even more!


Some may not agree with me here but to me at least it seems the easiest and by far cheapest solution to your problem.


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

I am skipping the comfort bikes like the Cypress DX as it is too "bouncy and slow "  but it was very very comfy for bumps.

Today I tried out an 2012 Trek 7.2 FX Extra Large at a different store and it was nice and fast and pretty comfortable - surprisingly so without suspension. The saleslady said a standard adjustable stem would be no problem and no problem with stripping.

The tech who setup the Trek bike for me said something interesting something like "There is probably just one setting for your handlebars that will give you the most comfort when going on a long bike ride - and I would always/tend to keep the height etc setting at that one. You will know what is the best over time as your back will not feel good and we can make adjustments." If this is true I may not need a 'low' setting for speed and a 'high' setting for leisure.

At another bike store their tech guy had in stock both the XL and L sizes of the 2011 Specialized Sirrus and he made me put back the XL because I was not 6'4" and that I am a Large not XL. When I straddled the top tube both the Trek and Specialized gave me only about 1.25 inches clearance. So now I am confused on the correct frame size; but I think I am a Large...???


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Did you try an actual road bike yet?

I think any improvement by a hybrid over your Norco (can you post a pic?) if it's correctly tuned and fitted is going to be pretty marginal. How big are the wheels? You can put a bigger chainring on the bike if you need it...


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## comfortflyer (Jul 3, 2012)

I tried a friend's road bike last night. It was quite different, and I don't think I would have much fun riding it around the neighbourhood. It would be good for going fast in a straight line on the road but... That is not what I do the most nor intend to do the most. So now for my "all in one bike" it's between a dual sport bike with or without front suspension, with or without adjustable stem...

For comfort I may have an extra suspension seat post and nicer saddle that I can 'quick release' switch and ride around with family.


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## xjbaylor (Dec 28, 2006)

comfortflyer said:


> At another bike store their tech guy had in stock both the XL and L sizes of the 2011 Specialized Sirrus and he made me put back the XL because I was not 6'4" and that I am a Large not XL. When I straddled the top tube both the Trek and Specialized gave me only about 1.25 inches clearance. So now I am confused on the correct frame size; but I think I am a Large...???


What you need to find is a bike shop that will fit you using a method other than "straddle the bike" or "you are 6'4" so you need a L." Those are definitely not great ways to ensure you are on a correctly sized bike. As far as suspensions and suspension seatposts go, just find a saddle that you like and ride for a while. Over time you and the saddle will break in, and discomfort on a one hour ride will be a thing of the past. 

Finally, with regards to the adjustable stem, just because a salesperson tells you it won't strip or become an issues doesn't mean they are correct. Heck, one of them told you that 2" or clearance with the TT means that the bike will fit you. That is simply not how bikes work, but pithy statements like that make the salespersons job a lot easier (assuming their goal is to move product, and not to create a loyal customer base.)

Find a bar height that you like, and when you need to go faster, bend your elbows. Alternatively, test a few more cross bikes. With large tires they can be incredibly comfortable, and already have multiple had positions built in. I would argue that a drop bar bike is significantly more comfortable than a flat bar bike, simply due to the variety of hand positions.


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