# Getting Faster-How to Train?



## trek7100 (Jan 1, 2008)

I am really slow, averaging 11-12mph. Whats the best way to get faster, riding alot of miles, riding hard all the time, or ??? I am also 55 yo. I would like to join and ride with a bike club. Thank you


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## j.carney.tx (Jun 15, 2011)

11-12mph over what distance? do you ride this because that's the best you can do, or because you're comfortable in finishing at that pace? 

Let's say you always ride 10miles at that pace. To get faster, try riding 5 miles at 13-14 in-between longer rides at your normal pace. After a while, your longer ride pace will increase. Or, you will feel more comfortable in a longer ride at your normal pace. 

However long your normal rides are, try riding a shorter distance at a slightly faster pace.


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## kbiker3111 (Nov 7, 2006)

We're going to need new details, but my initial guess is going to be just ride more. You're riding a standard road bike, right? Until you start riding ~5 hours a week, the best thing you can do is ride more.


Edit: I just googled a Trek 7100 and realized what you're riding. If you want to get faster a new bike wouldn't hurt. Otherwise just enjoy riding your bike and ride it more and the speed will slowly come.


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## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

11 to 12 mph is soft pedaling or someone that is completely exhausted. 

Tell us about your set up, weight/general conditioning, health problems....ect.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

You might not be as slow as you think if that 11-12 average is city riding or similar with a lot of stop/starts.

Anyway, it's tough to say because we don't know what you can take and what your recovery would be but no, you don't want to ride hard all the time. But at least once a week you should really put out a hard effort. Also mix in some intervals. In other words going as hard as you can for a set period of time within a ride but not for the whole ride.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

Yes, it would help you to find a moderate bike club ride. The advantages to riding with a club lie with being able to sit at the back and relax in the draft. You are not constantly out in front all by yourself burning big energy and naturally you'll be able to ride a little bit faster than usual.


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## Schneiderguy (Jan 9, 2005)

ride more miles-yes but build up slowly
ride harder all the time-no you will burn out
ride with a group a bit stronger than you-yes
forget the computer re: speed-keep track of endurance by time not miles
have fun


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## trek7100 (Jan 1, 2008)

I'm riding a Specialized Secteur Elite Compact. I'm still about 20# overweight, 55 yo.My fitness level isn't that great, 7 months ago I broke my ankle in 3 places and still don't have full range of motion. My 6 mile ride my average speed is 11.71, my 10.5 mile ride, my average speed is 10.33. With temps in the mid 80's and humid.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Ride more. Forget about average speed. Go have fun. Ride some hills, explore, sprint for city limits signs. Ride with other people. Don't do the same loop over and over trying to beat your average speed. That's a bad way to train, no serious racers do that. It's also not that much fun.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Ride more. Start trying to go longer distances. The only time I ride less than 20 miles is if I have an upcoming short time trial. 

Are you using good cadence? Nice cadence won't make you faster, but grinding usually can slow riders down.


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## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

I agree ride more so you ankle has some time to gain strength. Continue to lose your weight with calorie reduction. 

As you ease into more and more riding you'll adapt a gain some speed. At some point if you want to go fast you'll have to learn to suffer through intervals or just riding a bigger gear with a faster cadence. 

Do you wear cycling shoes, toe straps?


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## trek7100 (Jan 1, 2008)

I've been using toe straps. I know this is stupid, but I guess I need to be taught about cadence. Thanks for all your advice. I appreciate all the info. I have a few different routes I alternate riding.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

trek7100 said:


> I've been using toe straps. I know this is stupid, but I guess I need to be taught about cadence. Thanks for all your advice. I appreciate all the info. I have a few different routes I alternate riding.


I'd suggest getting bike shows and clipless pedals. I haven't used toe straps since I was in high school. Your feet will thank you for it. The added efficiency is a nice benefit, too.

Since you don't have clipless pedals, I think it's safe to assume your bike isn't fitted. This will involve adjusting you saddle and bar height to get a nice efficient pedal stroke as well as make you more comfortable. The efficiency you gain alone should make you faster. This will allow you to ride faster and since you'll be more comfortable, you'll feel like riding further. 

Among racers, there can be cadence debates, but I think you'll find that most serious riders and racers tend to pedal faster than the general public. As a novice rider, what _seems_ natural is to put the bike in the highest gear you can turn over. This not only puts a lot of strain on the knees, but the high muscular force isn't particularly sustainable for changes in pace or super long distances. Riders who pedal fast, but in a lighter gear don't fatigue the muscles, but the pedal stroke becomes more aerobic, which is a good thing. It'll take a while to get used to pedaling faster and you might need a computer with a cadence monitor, but it'll eventually become natural.


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## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

I use toe straps on my fixed gear bike and with high quality toe straps, MKS with double leather straps I can hammer down the road. The only problem is it tears up a pair of street shoes fast by wearing holes in my toes and of course it's a bit harder to climb in toe straps as they are a little sloppy on the upstroke.

I agree though he should get a pair of cycling shoes with either SPD cleats or Speed Play if he plans to ride with the bike club to increase efficiency. Look for something with either a carbon sole or suitable substitute that doesn't flex under load. 

If your looking to be able to walk in your shoes when your off the bike it best to have a pair of shoes that are more MTB oriented with a recessed cleat like those found with egg beaters pedals...those are what I use for commuting.


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## trek7100 (Jan 1, 2008)

I do have cycling shoes, Shimano WM 61. I did have a bike fit. I guess I haven't gotten clipless pedals because I couldn't figure out which ones to get. My shoes have a 2 bolt pattern. I was reading reviews on Shimano M540 and R520, CrankBrothers. Is a price range of around $100 ok? Any recommendations for pedals?


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

As long as you have road shoes, you should be able to get road cleats and pedals. Shimano's SPDs seem to be a reasonable value.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

1) Make sure you have had a clear bill of health from your doctor.
2) Adjust your diet....drop those pounds. My speed would be much less if i had to carry a 20lb backpack around.
3) Pedal quick and easy vs mashing your pedals
4) Increase your distance at a very minimal per week....say 5%
5) If you increase your intensity...decrease your distance
6) find riding buddies


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

trek7100 said:


> I do have cycling shoes, Shimano WM 61. I did have a bike fit. I guess I haven't gotten clipless pedals because I couldn't figure out which ones to get. My shoes have a 2 bolt pattern. ...


Those are mountain bike shoes, not purely "road" shoes -- but many casual or touring cyclists will choose MTB shoes for ease of offbike walking.

Since you'll not likely to be going thru mud, etc, the Shimano SPD style pedals are good all around (don't confuse with SPD-SL, which are road pedals with large 3 hole cleats).

Some Shimano SPD pedals are cleat one side, and flat platform on other, so you can still hop on the bike with street shoes for short rides. Little harder to get into, than regular double-sided SPD pedals.


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## heathb (Nov 1, 2008)

trek7100 said:


> I do have cycling shoes, Shimano WM 61. I did have a bike fit. I guess I haven't gotten clipless pedals because I couldn't figure out which ones to get. My shoes have a 2 bolt pattern. I was reading reviews on Shimano M540 and R520, CrankBrothers. Is a price range of around $100 ok? Any recommendations for pedals?


Typical road shoes have either a 3 bolt pattern or some have the Speedplay system for 4 bolt. 

For 2 bolt shoes like you have I use the CrankBrothers Eggbeater SL. I have these on my commuter bike, my MTB, my 29er MTB and my cyclocross bike. They're more geared towards either off road because they don't clog with mud and they are very easy to release which I like when riding on ice and snow during the winter and the eggbeaters are extremely easy to get into which make them a great cyclocross pedal. Of course they have a small cleat and it's recessed so you can walk in them for commuting. They have a lot of float like 15 degrees which is a bit too much for road riding as I use Shimano SPD(three hole pattern) red cleats with zero float on my roadbikes for that locked in tight feel. SPD cleats also offer a very wide pedal plateform to prevent hotspots on the soles of your feet when you're doing longer rides. 

Crankbrother pedals with cleats:


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

For 2-hole cleats, I used Shimano A520 pedals for a few years on my commuter. Solid enough design, and were easy enough to get in and out of. I preferred these over the standard mountain designs, even though they were 1-sided.

I'm using Eggbeaters now on my cross and mountain bikes, and am still having teething pains with exit/entry that I haven't taken the time to resolve yet. WIll likely involve shimming the cleat slightly.


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## trek7100 (Jan 1, 2008)

I just ordered some Shimano A520s. Should I have ordered a pedal wrench?


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

trek7100 said:


> I just ordered some Shimano A520s. Should I have ordered a pedal wrench?


If you already own (or can borrow from a neighbor) a standard, 15mm open ended wrench with a reasonably long handle (9-10"), then you don't need a "pedal wrench".

Otherwise -- yes, you'd need one. Or take it to a bike shop, they'd likely install for under $5.

Don't forget the left-side pedal unscrews in the clockwise direction, if you're facing the bike's left side. 

The right-side pedal unscrews in the "normal" direction, ie counter-clockwise as you face the bike's right side.


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