# Installation of Shimano 10 speed crank



## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

Just finished installing a new 2005 shimano dura ace 10 speed crankset on a new frame. When I spin the crank it only turns once or twice before it stops (no chain attached or pedals). There is no noise, no side to side play and it turns freely. 

I also have a 2004 dura ace triple crankset with the older style bottom bracket where both crank arms attach to the splines. When I spin this crank it rotates dozens of times before it stops.

Is the additional friction a result of the newer 2005 crankset desgin that contacts the outboard bearings unlike the older 2004 crankset that remained a distance away from the bottom bracket? Maybe in doesn't spin as freely because it is new and not worked in like the 8,300 miles on the 2004 set. The older system was a little heavier too which would make some difference.

One more comment. The 2004 crankset turns so freely that if the crank arms are move a little off center it will (like a pendullum) return to the postion that you moved it from. The 2005 has enough friction that it will remain at any position without moving further.

Any ideas? Did I install it incorrectly? Seemed pretty simple to assemble.

Thanks


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## blehargh (Mar 17, 2004)

Starcon777 said:


> Just finished installing a new 2005 shimano dura ace 10 speed crankset on a new frame. When I spin the crank it only turns once or twice before it stops (no chain attached or pedals). There is no noise, no side to side play and it turns freely.
> 
> I also have a 2004 dura ace triple crankset with the older style bottom bracket where both crank arms attach to the splines. When I spin this crank it rotates dozens of times before it stops.
> 
> ...


Did you set the bearing preload properly? it's really easy to crank down on that sucker and put too much pressure on the BB bearings. You should definitely double check that. you shouldn't need a lot of force on it. If you do, you'll wear out your BB prematurely.

GL,
-don


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

blehargh said:


> Did you set the bearing preload properly? it's really easy to crank down on that sucker and put too much pressure on the BB bearings. You should definitely double check that. you shouldn't need a lot of force on it. If you do, you'll wear out your BB prematurely.
> 
> GL,
> -don


Thanks, I went back and checked the torque as you suggested and the crankset is virtually unchanged from what I described above. As such, I tried to manually rotate the outboard bearings without the crankset installed. They must be heavily greased because they do take a little effort to rotate. I think this is the cause of my issue. I believe they are fine but just need to get a few miles on them to loosen them up. I will have to recheck after a few rides.

Steve


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## Tommasini (Apr 24, 2002)

*Par for the course with that style BB*



Starcon777 said:


> Thanks, I went back and checked the torque as you suggested and the crankset is virtually unchanged from what I described above. As such, I tried to manually rotate the outboard bearings without the crankset installed. They must be heavily greased because they do take a little effort to rotate. I think this is the cause of my issue. I believe they are fine but just need to get a few miles on them to loosen them up. I will have to recheck after a few rides.
> 
> Steve


I've heard from mechanics and Velonews has confirmed it via several well known race team mechanics that they aren't fond of the preload (small as it is) that must be placed onto the BB for the outboard bearing styles. They report that this will cause cause a small amount of binding that must be lived with. Counter to that though is that in your case you're looking at new seals versus ones that are well used and likely worn in.


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## SDizzle (May 1, 2004)

There is a thread on the RBR Look board begun by Francois concerning this drag, and replacement bearings that significantly reduce it. It's recent enough that it should be easily found.

If worse comes to worse, get an FSA BB. Mine required a few days' break-in, and spins great now.


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## SDizzle (May 1, 2004)

The hard part:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=22617

Scroll most of the way down this thread, and you'll see it.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Could be new grease & new seals*

While this could be a bearing pre-load question, it could also just be that there is new grease in there and new seals on the axle. The grease will break down and move around a bit with use, and this will let things turn more easily. The seals will conform better to the axle, also reducing friction.


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## CoachRob (Sep 14, 2004)

What is meant by "outboard' bearings? Is there a picture or diagram you can direct me to? I assume there are also "inboard" bearings?


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

CoachRob said:


> What is meant by "outboard' bearings? Is there a picture or diagram you can direct me to? I assume there are also "inboard" bearings?


Go to the shimano website for dura ace componets and there will be a diagram of the new bottom bracket. Here is what they say:

"A combined FC/BB weight reduction of 30 grams has been achieved. In addition, Hollowtech II allows the bottom bracket bearings to be spaced wider apart (outboard bearings) and the axle and bearings themselves to be larger."


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

SDizzle said:


> There is a thread on the RBR Look board begun by Francois concerning this drag, and replacement bearings that significantly reduce it. It's recent enough that it should be easily found.
> 
> If worse comes to worse, get an FSA BB. Mine required a few days' break-in, and spins great now.



Thanks for the suggestion. I am beginning to believe that the bearings are heavily greased and will loosen with use.


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

SDizzle said:


> The hard part:
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=22617
> 
> Scroll most of the way down this thread, and you'll see it.



Thanks for the thread. I am putting the crank on a 2004 LOOK 481SL and have a 2004 LOOK 386i so not only was the crank issue timely but the LOOK bikes were a real treat. I don't think that the friction will be noticeable at all. I am not worried about it as much as I was concerned if there was something wrong with the set-up. RIght now I believe that there will always be more friction due to the design. I am certain at this point that what I have experienced is normal for a new crankset.


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

Tommasini said:


> I've heard from mechanics and Velonews has confirmed it via several wheel known race team mechanics that they aren't fond of the preload (small as it is) that must be placed onto the BB for the outboard bearing styles. They report that this will cause cause a small amount of binding that must be lived with. Counter to that though is that in your case you're looking at new seals versus ones that are well used and likely worn in.



Thanks, I have studied this more and I agree with you.


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## Starcon777 (Feb 12, 2005)

Kerry Irons said:


> While this could be a bearing pre-load question, it could also just be that there is new grease in there and new seals on the axle. The grease will break down and move around a bit with use, and this will let things turn more easily. The seals will conform better to the axle, also reducing friction.


Thanks, I have studied this issue some more and have come to the same conclusions.


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