# Help....Looking for a chain catcher to fit SLC 01



## BMC Lover

Hi everyone does anyone have a chain catcher (to stop dropping chain on inside ring) attached to an SLC 01?
I am also running a compact crank on this bike.
I stole the one off my Scott but due to the flaring of the seat tube on the SLC near BB it will not fit.

I am looking at the K edge road clamp but are not sure if it will fit with compact crank??
Heres the link?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/K-Edge_Road_Clamp_Chain_Catcher/5360046417/#more
Anybody using this or anything else that works?

Thanks in advance


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## Peanya

I don't know where to find it, but I've seen some that attach to the derailleur hanger. That's what you need.


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## JohnHenry

BMC Lover said:


> Hi everyone does anyone have a chain catcher (to stop dropping chain on inside ring) attached to an SLC 01?
> I am also running a compact crank on this bike.
> I stole the one off my Scott but due to the flaring of the seat tube on the SLC near BB it will not fit.
> 
> I am looking at the K edge road clamp but are not sure if it will fit with compact crank??
> Heres the link?
> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/K-Edge_Road_Clamp_Chain_Catcher/5360046417/#more
> Anybody using this or anything else that works?
> 
> Thanks in advance


try fairwheelbikes.com

I think they carry a "far & near" brand catcher


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## boneman

*K Edge should be fine*

Got the same frame with a K Edge. The crank's not compact and that's a 39th on the inner but you should be fine with a 34th, easily.



BMC Lover said:


> Hi everyone does anyone have a chain catcher (to stop dropping chain on inside ring) attached to an SLC 01?
> I am also running a compact crank on this bike.
> I stole the one off my Scott but due to the flaring of the seat tube on the SLC near BB it will not fit.
> 
> I am looking at the K edge road clamp but are not sure if it will fit with compact crank??
> Heres the link?
> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/K-Edge_Road_Clamp_Chain_Catcher/5360046417/#more
> Anybody using this or anything else that works?
> 
> Thanks in advance


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## pushy

Use a large zip tie







Tie is cut at an angle pointing towards the small chainring and a whisker off the edge and slightly above the chain when its on the small chainring. When the chain gets knocked off the large chainring it hits the edge of the tie and slides down to the small ring being unable to fall towards the frame. hope it helps.

Les


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## sgtgeo

pushy said:


> Use a large zip tie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tie is cut at an angle pointing towards the small chainring and a whisker off the edge and slightly above the chain when its on the small chainring. When the chain gets knocked off the large chainring it hits the edge of the tie and slides down to the small ring being unable to fall towards the frame. hope it helps.
> 
> Les



Great idea!!! I feel stupid for not thinking of this already. I even have large zip ties in my toolbox


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## pushy

:wink5:


sgtgeo said:


> Great idea!!! I feel stupid for not thinking of this already. I even have large zip ties in my toolbox


 Just add a piece of inner tube between tie and frame, protects the frame and adds a bit of grip as the tie is pretty smooth plastic.:wink5:


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## Bridgey

Sgtgeo could you please take a shot from side on, so I can see where the tie is in relation to the front derailleur. Very nice idea I must say. Thanks for sharing.


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## DY123

I don't get it. Why would you need a chain catcher? Is it something specific to the frame or the components you are using?


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## danl1

DY123 said:


> I don't get it. Why would you need a chain catcher? Is it something specific to the frame or the components you are using?


They are common risk avoidance devices, regardless of frame, components, or rider or mechanic's skill. If someone is only reasonably aggressive with their bike (that is, they ride it on real roads) they'll eventually come across a rough patch while shifting, or be caught in a bad gear combo and need to double shift in a hurry, or any of a dozen other things that can increase the risk of a chain drop. 

A dropped chain is at least inconvenient, likely to ruin a race, and at worst can lead to significant frame damage. The question is less "why" than "why not?"

A quick glance at how often they show up on ProTour bikes negates most all of the arguments that they aren't necessary: There's nothing second-rate about anything around them, yet there they are.


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## DY123

I can see them in cyclo cross or the Spring Classics...but other than that I don't really get it. I was really wondering if it was related to specific components? They (chain catchers) are much more prevalent now then they ever were in the past. Have manufacturers changed something that makes it a more common occurrence (chain drop)?


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## pushy

Bridgey said:


> Sgtgeo could you please take a shot from side on, so I can see where the tie is in relation to the front derailleur. Very nice idea I must say. Thanks for sharing.


Bridgey, the tie is under/below the F/D hanger on the seat tube. The bottom edge of the tie is about1/8 inch above and from the side of the chain when its on the small chainring. Where it is along the chain is not critical just need to be close to the F/D and preferably in front. The tie is cut at an angle of about 30-40 degrees from the verticle so that when the chain gets knocked off the large chainring it falls onto the sloping cut edge of the tie and not across the top of the tie so it slides down to the small chainring. It has worked perfectly for me since installation.

Les


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## pushy

Bridgey said:


> Sgtgeo could you please take a shot from side on, so I can see where the tie is in relation to the front derailleur. Very nice idea I must say. Thanks for sharing.


Bridgey, the tie is under/below the F/D hanger on the seat tube. The bottom edge of the tie is about1/8 inch above and from the side of the chain when its on the small chainring. Where it is along the chain is not critical just need to be close to the F/D and preferably in front. The tie is cut at an angle of about 30-40 degrees from the verticle so that when the chain gets knocked off the large chainring it falls onto the sloping cut edge of the tie and not across the top of the tie so it slides down to the small chainring. It has worked perfectly for me since installation.

Les


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## BMC Lover

As stated above chains drop for a number of reasons apart from poorly adjustable FD's.
If you do a lot of racing shifting under pressure etc it will eventually get you (and your frame)!
The answer is to fit protection and as stated above avoid it!
Most TDF riders use chain catchers....who wants to drop the peloton on that race!!! 
Can win you a race and save your beautiful frame from damage so there is two good reasons to do it today!

Anyway Push THANKS so so much for your zip tie idea!
I have done both my BMC SLT and SLC tonight and what a fantastic idea.
It cost me a grand total of $2.39 at my local hardware store and about an hour of my time.
Used about 6 zip ties till I had it perfect...kinda fun!
Works a treat and is a no brainer.
Added abot 10 gms in weight so a lot lighter than K edge alternative (which I dont think would have worked with compact crank anyway) and about $100 cheaper!!

PS I will add that I fitted tie as you described plus added insurance on the downtube at crank as well with another one.
This is especially important on the SLT due to the carbon and alum lugged frame as I don't want to gouge this out!


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## pushy

:thumbsup: Glad to be of service.


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## nfosterma

*K edge Works fine with a Compact Crank*



BMC Lover said:


> Added abot 10 gms in weight so a lot lighter than K edge alternative (which I dont think would have worked with compact crank anyway) and about $100 cheaper!!


I'm just wondering, why do you think that the K Edge wouldn't work with a compact crank? I just built up my SLC 01 with a compact crank and it works fine (I'd post pictures but I forgot them at home). Based on my math, the difference in size (radius) between a 39t chainring and a 34t chainring is roughly 10 mm. However, you would need to move you the FD down by about 6 mm to accomodate the size difference between the 53t and 50t outer rings. The K Edge was able to handle this additional 4 mm (about an 1/8th of an inch) easily.

I must admit, I work in corporate finance so I'm using high school geometry that I haven't looked at in over 20 years. If anyone sees any problems with my logic, please let me know.

The cable tie idea is very cool...


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## BMC Lover

Sorry....I stated I didn't think it would work!
This was based on advice I got from a LBS
If you have actually fitted one and it works, then that answers the question!
The problem with the BMC is it uses a clamp on FD which limits choice.
Well done on solving that one.
Out of curiosity, did you use an adapter clamp on the FD to fit braze K edge or did you use the K edge that clamps to the frame?
Thanks


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## nfosterma

BMC Lover said:


> Sorry....I stated I didn't think it would work!
> This was based on advice I got from a LBS
> If you have actually fitted one and it works, then that answers the question!
> The problem with the BMC is it uses a clamp on FD which limits choice.
> Well done on solving that one.
> Out of curiosity, did you use an adapter clamp on the FD to fit braze K edge or did you use the K edge that clamps to the frame?
> Thanks


I went with an FD adapter (Parlee). It was pricey, but I had read that the carbon adapater could be gentler on a carbon seat tube than a traditional clamp-on FD might be. This could be total marketing-b.s. and I fell into the trap, but this will be only new bike in the next few years...


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## BMC Lover

Thanks that's very helpful!

Hey, why not get the best adapter ...you have a beautiful frame...you should hang your prefereces on it!


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## Phish

I installed a "Far & Near" catcher on my BMC SLC01 a few weeks ago. It works fine with a compact crank. I have both a 34 and 36 tooth chainring that I swap out as needed, and both work perfectly.


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## BergMann

*DIY Zip Tie Chain Catcher Photo Followup*

Was researching a chain catcher purchase, and came across this old thread with this genius DIY zip tie chain catcher.
Thought I'd post some photos of the setup I created following Pushy's instructions.

You don't see my rubber shim, because I trimmed it to width, but I used barge cement to glue a strip of inner tube inside my large zip tie to eliminate slippage on the bottom of my slightly flared seat tube.

Zip ties were about 35 cents each at my local Lowes.
Total weight for my trimmed & shimmed DIY zip catcher = 4g ! 
(vs. 10g for the K-Edge).

My camera angles may distort it a little, but in my installation the outer beveled edge of the zip tie slightly overlaps the outer plate of the chain by ~0.5mm, and is about 1mm above the top of the chain.
Works like a charm!


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