# Threaded vs. Smooth Valve Stems?



## winphoto1 (Aug 29, 2010)

Being new to cycling, could someone please state the purpose of *threaded* valve stems? Is it to make it easier to put the pump on when a tube is new because the nut can help keep the valve stem from being pushed into the rim?

I had my first flat awhile ago and replaced it with a tube with a smooth valve stem. The pump slides on and off so much easier that I don't really see the value of the threads. Maybe I'm missing something.

Thanks for the responses!


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

The threaded ones suck. The knurled nut is supposed to keep the valve stem in place better. Love the smooth ones- the rubber seal in the pump head works so much better with them, and I've never had a problem with the valve stem moving out of position.


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## kmunny19 (Aug 13, 2008)

winphoto1 said:


> I don't really see the value of the threads. Maybe I'm missing something.


you are not.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

Agreed, the asian companies are just pumping out stuff...nobody knows why. It's like the newbies who ride around with the plastic cap on the presta valve and the round nut around the presta stem...nobody knows why?


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

I'm a noob who still uses the nut and prefers threaded. I don't like the smooth ones either.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

If I'm stuck and need to buy a tube where the stem is a little short for my rims I like the threaded ones because they're easier to pump up when flat but other that that I don't see much reason to care which I have.


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## Cheerios (Sep 10, 2011)

My pump prefers the extended and threaded.


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## Mootsie (Feb 4, 2004)

Cheerios said:


> My pump prefers the extended and threaded.


+1 if you have tires that take higher pressures like Vreds, you really want the threaded stems. They stop the pump from "blowing off".


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Threaded stems are awful hard on the pump head. They will chew up the rubber gasket to the point that it will blow off the stem before reaching pressure.


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

The reason behind the threads is that the first inner tubes that used a presta valves were used on 27X1-1/4 or 27X1-3/8 tires that were pumped up to 60 -75 psi. With these low pressures, after time, the tire would whift on the rim, and cause the presta stem to tear. The threadded nut kept that tube from shifting, and saved the tube from tearing.
Modern clinchers are run at higher pressures, so you don't have that problem anymore.

PS. I recomend MTB's to use a threadded presta stem for the reason mentioned above.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Hooben said:


> Agreed, the asian companies are just pumping out stuff...nobody knows why. It's like the newbies who ride around with the plastic cap on the presta valve and the round nut around the presta stem...nobody knows why?


Excuse me? Sorry, I didn't know that was a requirement for experienced riders....

The Specialized tubes I use have a short length of thread for the round nut and the rest of the shaft is smooth. Perfect. And news for noobs, it's a good idea to use the round nut as it stabilizes the stem when you're jamming the pump head on and yanking it off, which you'll do dozens or hundreds of times in the life of a tube.. Keeps the stem from receding into the tire which can weaken the already fragile area of tube around the stem. I use the plastic cap, too. Shoot me.


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## stleon2 (Aug 4, 2009)

velodog said:


> Threaded stems are awful hard on the pump head. They will chew up the rubber gasket to the point that it will blow off the stem before reaching pressure.


So that's why my Blackburn pump took a dump...


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## Mootsie (Feb 4, 2004)

velodog said:


> Threaded stems are awful hard on the pump head. They will chew up the rubber gasket to the point that it will blow off the stem before reaching pressure.


9 years and still going strong on my pump gasket with threaded stems.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Smooth stems are much nicer on-off. The threaded stems are a conspiracy with the pump manufacturers. The rubber grommet in the Joe Blow head needs to be replaced somewhere around 14-16 months time. No big deal at roughly $2 each. The Silica chuck, the rubber grommet has been durable, I have changed it twice in 20 years. The last one didn't seem as well made though.


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## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

I may be a noob, as I've only been using clinchers since 2000, but I greatly prefer threaded stems, locked with a nut onto the rim. As mentioned above, the threads make it less likely the pump head will blow off the stem...a situation that invariably puts my as yet unshod tootsies in danger. With the stem screwed tightly onto the rim, the stem automatically centers itself in the rim hole, and then doesn't shift (something that happens at practically any pressure for me, especially when I've followed the all-important note to talc the tube). When the tube is entirely deflated, it is much easier to get the pump head onto the stem when the stem fastened down.

At any rate, yes, I'm clumsy. And to hell with the stupid little grommet. They're cheap.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Smooth stems are better IMO. They don't chew up the pump head, the pump head seals better, and also goes on & off easier.

Worried about pushing the stem into the rim hole when inflating? Put the pump head against the stem and your other hand around the tire behind the stem. When you push the pump head on apply opposite pressure with your thumb or the heel of your other hand.

Never pull the pump head off the stem. Ever. Place both hands around the tire behind the stem & use your thumbs to push it off. It'll just pop right off without ripping the stem off or making you crunch your hand into the spokes.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Smooth stems are more aero...but I prefer them anyway.


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## Matador-IV (Aug 2, 2010)

looigi said:


> Smooth stems are more aero...but I prefer them anyway.


But threaded are more lighter.


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## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

which ever ones are cheaper are the ones I prefer. given the same price, I prefer the threaded with the nut. my floor pump sits more secure and doesn't blow off like it does with the smooth valves. I also find the nut does make it easier to pop the pump head on then with out. after several years of pumping my tires, I'm barely getting shredded washers.


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## Harryquinn (Jan 20, 2011)

Smooth valve stems for me every time. I've never had any problems with my floor pump blowing off them under pressure and sliding the pump off after inflating is so easy.

Contrast that with the hassle I get from the threaded valve inner tubes that came on my new Scott CR1 Pro. It's a drag to push the pump head onto the things but a real chore getting it off again. I almost changed them immediately for smooth-stemmed ones I carry as spares but, being a cheapskate, decided to wait until they punctured. 

That happened with the front one last week. I was pumping it up before a ride and the tube blew. I discovered that the valve base had separated from the tube (a cheap Cheng Shin rather than the Continental I had expected to find).

So now I have one threaded and one smooth on the Scott but as I'm still a cheapskate I'll wait for the rear tube to puncture before changing it to a decent Michelin Aircomp!


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## asad137 (Jul 29, 2009)

On a regular road tire, smooth valve stems are fine. But I have a set of studded winter tires with a very thick, stiff casing. Using a threaded stem with a nut means I can put the pump head on the valve stem on a fully deflated tire without pushing the whole stem into the rim.

Asad


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Bill2 said:


> The threaded ones suck.


You could have stopped right there.



Bill2 said:


> The knurled nut is supposed to keep the valve stem in place better.


Knurled nuts are for Freds. Don't be caught having one of those on your rims...


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Mootsie said:


> +1 if you have tires that take higher pressures like Vreds, you really want the threaded stems. They stop the pump from "blowing off".


Uhmm, in all of my now roughly 30 years of cycling, I have never, ever, had a pump "blow off". 



Mapei said:


> As mentioned above, the threads make it less likely the pump head will blow off the stem...a situation that invariably puts my as yet unshod tootsies in danger.


See above. My tootsies are just fine. In fact, before I read this thread, it had never occurred to me that they might be in any danger.



Mapei said:


> When the tube is entirely deflated, it is much easier to get the pump head onto the stem when the stem fastened down.


Yep, really hard to push that stem down by pressing with your thumb on the tire. 



Mapei said:


> At any rate, yes, I'm clumsy.


So it would appear.


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

Pirx said:


> Knurled nuts are for Freds. Don't be caught having one of those on your rims...


Unless you're running tubeless, in which case they are mandatory.


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## stephen9666 (Apr 7, 2010)

I like the threaded stems in wheels that originally had schrader valve tubes. It keeps the stem from moving around so much in the larger rim hole.


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## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

Pirx said:


> Uhmm, in all of my now roughly 30 years of cycling, I have never, ever, had a pump "blow off".
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I bow to your superiority.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

ok...I don't get it....ALL of my tubes, are threaded at the valve end for a cap. I have never seen any that aren't (do they exist?) AND none of my pump heads go far enough down the stem to make the other thread an issue. Am I missing something?


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Mapei said:


> I bow to your superiority.


The acknowledgment of your inferiority is gracefully accepted. 



Touch0Gray said:


> ok...I don't get it....ALL of my tubes, are threaded at the valve end for a cap. I have never seen any that aren't (do they exist?) AND none of my pump heads go far enough down the stem to make the other thread an issue. Am I missing something?


Yep, there are those insipid valves that are threaded all the way from the bottom to the top of the stem. Pure crap, I tell you...


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## TWB8s (Sep 18, 2003)

Mapei said:


> I bow to your superiority.


He's never used a Silca floor pump.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Pirx said:


> The acknowledgment of your inferiority is gracefully accepted.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, there are those insipid valves that are threaded all the way from the bottom to the top of the stem. Pure crap, I tell you...


those were the ones I was referring to as the OTHER threads.......and as I said....it makes NO effin difference on any pump I have ever owned because none of them push on that far...but then again...I haven't been riding that long or had than many pumps


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

TWB8s said:


> He's never used a Silca floor pump.


Damn straight, I have never used that sh!t. German-made "Rennkompressor" here... 

P.S.: But I have replaced the head with a Topeak one (after 20 years of use), which fastens to the stem just as securely.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Touch0Gray said:


> those were the ones I was referring to as the OTHER threads.......and as I said....it makes NO effin difference on any pump I have ever owned because none of them push on that far...


O.k., what I was trying to explain to you was that there _are_ valves where those OTHER threads cover ALL OF the stem. Like so:


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

At first I had no idea what you guys were yammering about. 

I just realized you guys are talking about *ugh* _clinchers_?


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## hammer.six (Apr 15, 2007)

Personally, my wife prefers ribbed. YMMV.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Pirx said:


> O.k., what I was trying to explain to you was that there _are_ valves where those OTHER threads cover ALL OF the stem.


exactly and those that ONLY have the thread for the cap.....and i will state AGAIN, no pump I have EVER used has gone far enough onto the valve stem to have the OTHER threads be an issue.



Touch0Gray said:


> ok...I don't get it....ALL of my tubes, are threaded at the valve end for a cap. I have never seen any that aren't (do they exist?) AND none of my pump heads go far enough down the stem to make the *other* thread an issue. Am I missing something?


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## erict (Apr 4, 2011)

I think threaded stems are lighter, but smooth are more aero - definitely something to consider. Yup, definitely......


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## ROAD&DIRT (Mar 27, 2009)

I'm kind of partial to the threaded ones my self... I prefer the metal silver over the goldish colored stems, they just look dirty and cheap.

But that's me


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

I like the silver threadless and the brass threaded.....just gotta hit with some brasso!


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## Harryquinn (Jan 20, 2011)

Well, my last remaining threaded valve tube blew this morning as I was easing the pump head off after inflating the tire. 

As I expected, the valve had managed to partly separate from the tube and I conclude that the considerable extra pressure needed to persuade the pump head to leave a threaded valve is enough to eventually cause a failure. 

I think it's a bit much having punctures caused merely by pumping up tires so I've now replaced the threaded rubbish with a nice smooth valved Michelin tube,


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## carbonLORD (Aug 2, 2004)

Really?

The threaded top portion is so you can screw a schrader adapter on.










The threaded body or shaft is so you can use a retainer ring and keep the valve firmly on the rim.










Non-threaded shafts are for aero wheels (that do not use the retainer ring).










For these wheels we use valve stem extensions which are also non-threaded.










Got it?


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## Harryquinn (Jan 20, 2011)

carbonLORD said:


> Really?
> 
> The threaded top portion is so you can screw a schrader adapter on.
> 
> ...


Don't know to whom your post was directed but:

the top portion of the valve, whether the bottom part is smooth or otherwise, is threaded for a presta valve adapter, not a schrader one.

I actually had the retaining ring screwed down (wheel was a Ksyrium Elite) but as my floor pump has a push-on head that hates threaded valves, coaxing it off works to pull the base of the valve against the inside of the rim and the retaining ring has no beneficial effect whatsoever.

And non-threaded valves are not exclusive to aero rims, they're sold in various lengths down to about 35mm


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## mpower13 (Jun 10, 2011)

carbonLORD said:


> Non-threaded shafts are for aero wheels (that do not use the retainer ring).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I found that this Zipp extension valve is very difficult to fit with my Lezyne floor pump. Why? The head is just too big to put the pump head in.


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## carbonLORD (Aug 2, 2004)

Harryquinn said:


> Don't know to whom your post was directed but:


It was directed to the dozens of cyclists on here that don't know.



Harryquinn said:


> the top portion of the valve, whether the bottom part is smooth or otherwise, is threaded for a presta valve adapter, not a schrader one.


schrader "adapter" and adapter for a presta valve are the same thing.



Harryquinn said:


> I actually had the retaining ring screwed down (wheel was a Ksyrium Elite) but as my floor pump has a push-on head that hates threaded valves, coaxing it off works to pull the base of the valve against the inside of the rim and the retaining ring has no beneficial effect whatsoever.


Get a better pump. One that has a locking lever, or use a 10mm valve extender which is smooth.



Harryquinn said:


> And non-threaded valves are not exclusive to aero rims, they're sold in various lengths down to about 35mm


I never said they were exclusive, I explained the reason between threaded and non threaded because there are 50 responses to this thread, most of which are wrong.


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## carbonLORD (Aug 2, 2004)

mpower13 said:


> I found that this Zipp extension valve is very difficult to fit with my Lezyne floor pump. Why? The head is just too big to put the pump head in.


It was the first stock image I could find. I use HED wheels (which come with the silver alloy valve extensions in my last picture). You can buy them separately for $5.

There are literally dozens of different types of valve extenders. Many people do not know if you flip the extensions you can use the other end to tighten and loosen the nipple of the actual inner tubes valve stem so no air is accidentally, or slowly leaks otherwise.

Spindergy actually made one of my favorite designs which actually has the nipple part of the valve and allows you to screw it tight as if it were the actual valve itself.










Get new valve stems rather then a new pump.


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## Harryquinn (Jan 20, 2011)

carbonLORD said:


> schrader "adapter" and adapter for a presta valve are the same thing.


I appreciate that you're trying to help but I think saying that a presta adapter is the same thing as a schrader one might only confuse some people. 
Your pictured example looks like a presta adapter with a base that screws into a schrader one. Still makes it a presta adapter, not schrader which is of course why most bike pumps come with separate ones, 6mm dia for presta and 8mm for schrader.

I've been using presta valves for over 50 years and even remember the days of valve rubbers for 'ordinary' bike tyres. They were a real pain. This was in the UK and Schrader valves were only ever seen on cars then! 

Incidentally, was the rim you show with the threaded valve and locking ring originally made for a schrader valve, hence the need for the lip beneath the locking ring? 

None of the locking rings on my recently deceased inner tubes had a lip beneath them. 



carbonLORD said:


> Get a better pump. One that has a locking lever, or use a 10mm valve extender which is smooth.


I have a very good pump already and it does have a locking lever. Its problem with threaded valve stems may be that it's too good and grips them too well even when unlocked. Anyway, as I'm done with them the problem is gone. 

The little pump I carry in my jersey pocket for emergency use has a neat fit-all adapter on a hose. You pull out for presta and leave in for schrader. As it's a screw on one, the question of threaded or smooth valve doesn't arise. 



carbonLORD said:


> I never said they were exclusive, I explained the reason between threaded and non threaded because there are 50 responses to this thread, most of which are wrong.


Point taken. I was inferring too much from your words.


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## scirocco (Dec 7, 2010)

Threaded valve stems with a nut stop the rattling noise you can get with smooth valve stems and no nut as you go over bumps.

If you can't hear the rattling or it doens't matter to you then smooth stems will be fine (and have some advantages like others have pointed out).


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## Keski (Sep 25, 2004)

threads work like dimples on a golf ball and make you more aero......


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## Jacques (11 mo ago)

winphoto1 said:


> Being new to cycling, could someone please state the purpose of *threaded* valve stems? Is it to make it easier to put the pump on when a tube is new because the nut can help keep the valve stem from being pushed into the rim?
> 
> I had my first flat awhile ago and replaced it with a tube with a smooth valve stem. The pump slides on and off so much easier that I don't really see the value of the threads. Maybe I'm missing something.
> 
> Thanks for the responses!


I may for some mysterious reason be the minority opinion on this but I really hate smooth valve stems. With threads the length of the stem, the floor pump valve remains attached no matter how much air has been pumped in. With the half smooth ones, the pressure usually forces its detachment before completion and I have to start over. Also, when attaching the floor pump valve, with the threaded one, minimal air escapes the tube; with the half threads, about half the tube gets emptied out before I can start pumping.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Jacques said:


> I may for some mysterious reason be the minority opinion on this but I really hate smooth valve stems. With threads the length of the stem, the floor pump valve remains attached no matter how much air has been pumped in. With the half smooth ones, the pressure usually forces its detachment before completion and I have to start over. Also, when attaching the floor pump valve, with the threaded one, minimal air escapes the tube; with the half threads, about half the tube gets emptied out before I can start pumping.


It's great that you decided to make your very first post a reply to a hugely important and very popular thread. It's only been dead for a little over 10 years. Maybe check the date of the last post next time.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

cxwrench said:


> It's great that you decided to make your very first post a reply to a hugely important and very popular thread. It's only been dead for a little over 10 years. Maybe check the date of the last post next time.


Only the bestest of the bestest threads are resurrected after 10 or more years. And I have to agree with him. My Lyzene pump has a screw on chuck and would not work on a smooth stem.


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## MDM (Jun 10, 2020)

Lombard said:


> Only the bestest of the bestest threads are resurrected after 10 or more years. And I have to agree with him. My Lyzene pump has a screw on chuck and would not work on a smooth stem.


Doesn't the pump screw onto the valve core threads and not the threads on the valve stem?


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

MDM said:


> Doesn't the pump screw onto the valve core threads and not the threads on the valve stem?


Possibly.


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## Jacques (11 mo ago)

MDM said:


> Doesn't the pump screw onto the valve core threads and not the threads on the valve stem?


Only on the Shrader side of my floor pump valve (though I’ve never used that side), not on the Presta side; there you just push up and secure it with the lever on the side. My tubes are Presta. With a smooth stem and 60-80 psi it usually gives.


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## SantaCruz (Mar 22, 2002)

I prefer to ride with a westerly breeze.
But I can ride into an easterly breeze.
Over time learned to handle a southerly breeze.
And now I can also ride into a northerly breeze.

After 35+ years riding I have learned that riding is a breeze, and focusing on esoteric minutiae is a chore.


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