# DT Swiss RR 1.1 or 1.2? Why?



## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

greetings all

what are the advantages and disadvantages of rims: RR 1.1 versus RR 1.2 ?

when would you buy one over another? Assume 32-spokes and same hubs to keep the comparison even.

I weigh 70kg, male, 3-5 hours training/fitness rides, need wheels that will last for a number of years and reliable over 10s of thousands of miles. I.e. I am not after feather-weight aero wheels for racing. I am not a strong or heavy sprinter (not strong in anything for that matter).

what is better 1.2 or 1.1? Also, which one is cheaper and by how much, approx?

thanks


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## -dustin (Jan 11, 2009)

I like that the 1.1s are socketed (double eyelets). I don't have enough experience with the 1.2s, though, and have only built up a handful. The quality of the 1.2 is what you'd expect from DT, but....I love me some sockets.

I believe they're similar in price...not enough to warrant choosing one based on price.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

It looks like the 1.1's have eyelets and weigh 415g and the 1.2's are more aero with no eyelets and weigh.......hmmm didn't find a weight yet.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

neither. The dt 1.1 are reliable in the rear only in the 460-70g double eyelet version. The front can be the single eyelet, but even those are around 430g. The rear is pretty heavy for a shallow rim...

then there is the 1.2. Solid, pretty much the swiss deep V. Same weight tho, around 585g. 
If you want something a little bit aero, go for the Nio30 rims. Many have been built, with many positive reviews - they seem to be solid at a much more reasonable ~ 470g.

If the choices are only as stated - i'd probably bite on the 1.1s, but only the double eyelet version in the rear. There is nothing special about the design tho - and dt has raised their prices much more above say the mavic OP, and i don't see them as being 50-70% better.

Mavic OPs are also double eyeleted and are ~ 435g.


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## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

thanks all. One more - what is a single eyelet and a double eyelet and why is double eyelet better?


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

acid_rider said:


> thanks all. One more - what is a single eyelet and a double eyelet and why is double eyelet better?


A single eyelet is simply a 'grommet' through the outer (hub-side) wall of the rim.

A double eyelet is a tube that runs through to the inner (rim-tape) wall.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

acid_rider said:


> thanks all. One more - what is a single eyelet and a double eyelet and why is double eyelet better?


Here are one of each kind. The double eyelet spans inner & outer layers of the rim. It's no big deal either way and many great rims have NO eyelets and they do just fine. The stainless eyelets make wheel truing a little easier and nicer though.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

yep yep - the problem is the dt rr1.1 was originally a single eyelet design - and like many the eyelet is too light and thin on the reverse side which meant some pulled out and did not provide enough support for the nipple bed - many cracked as a result.

early versions were closer to dt's claimed 415g.

To 'remedy' this, the double eyelet version was offered. Hence 1.1 rims as much as 470g.


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## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

great answers, thanks! this "single eyelet" design weakness might help explain why my Zipp Team CSC rear wheel (based on DT Swiss RR 1.1 rim?) did crack the rim after only 18,000 km in 2 years.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

i would say so - to be light the zipps would have been the early single eyelet 1.1s - you aren't the first to have experienced this. The brake track of the 1.1 are nice and thick, but the actual rim walls are very thin (b/c it was designed to be light!) as a result, when the light single eyelet goes (or allow too much movement) the rim wall cracks.

IMO the first rr1.1 design was defective. There i said it. Not good enough for 'dt swiss' and a price around $80-100. The 'fix' was a rim that was no longer weight competitive and departed from the promise of 415g. You might not care, but 470g for a ~20mm rim is uncompetitive these days. Many of the cheaper rims coming out of taiwan seem better.


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## -dustin (Jan 11, 2009)

I keep checking my 1.1s looking for cracks (first set of wheels I built way back in 2003). Nothing yet.


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## jksu (Mar 8, 2004)

*cracks*

mine have cracks and a spoke pulling through...will either get a 1.1 w/double eyelets, open pro, or mavic cxp33 or niobium 30 depending on what my lbs has in stock.

jksu


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

jksu said:


> mine have cracks and a spoke pulling through...will either get a 1.1 w/double eyelets, open pro, or mavic cxp33 or niobium 30 depending on what my lbs has in stock.
> 
> jksu


Or get a Kinlin and you dont have to worry about cracks.


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

Rather surprised no one has put a vote in for Velocity rims. They are light and very strong.


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

nightfend said:


> Rather surprised no one has put a vote in for Velocity rims. They are light and very strong.


Also surprised no one said the magic words, "Mavic Open Pro".
.


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