# Hood / Handlebar Angles Best for Wrists?



## kawarider (Mar 24, 2008)

Newbie here. Is there a certain handlebar position / hood angle that is best for not causing pain and numbness in the hands and wrists? See the 3 pictures below, where the hoods are either facing downward, are perfectly parallel to the ground, and are pointing upward.

Thanks!


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

It's up to the individual, bar shape, and lever/hood shape. Somewhere between #1 and #2 would be typical. #2 is about as far up as you want. #3 is much too far up.

If the bars or levers are too far up it'll impede your use of the brakes in the drops. That's not a good thing.


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

I recommend sitting on the bike, loosen up the bar clamp and grab the bar where you would normally ride(drops, hoods etc) and rotate the bar until your wrist is in a fairly neutral/normal position. If you ride in the drops and on the hoods equally you may have to get it as close as possible for both positions. I ride on the hoods approx. 95 % of the time and mine resembles your second photo. I have seen all sorts of tilts on bars so do what works best for you.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

When I set up new bars or shifters, I always put the bike on the trainer and do as you suggested to get the feel correct in the drops and then I tighten the bars in the stem. For the shifters, I install them loosely and move them around until I have a smooth transition from the bar to the hoods, usually ending up somewhere around #2 photo above. After that, I test ride it around the neighborhood making any additional adjustments to get comfortable. When I am OK with the shifter feel, then I'll tape down the cables and install the bar tape. Its a lot easier to make changes to hood position, even slight adjustments, before all the brake cables are secured and bar tape is installed.


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

Pain and numbness in the hands and wrists? Maybe it's not your bar angle, maybe it's your bar_ height_....as in, they're too low. Trying raising your bars. Oh...you can't. You've got threadless, and they've already cut the steering tube. Aren't modern 'innovations' like threadless _great?_


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Cranky old man*



Doggity said:


> Pain and numbness in the hands and wrists? Maybe it's not your bar angle, maybe it's your bar_ height_....as in, they're too low. Trying raising your bars. Oh...you can't. You've got threadless, and they've already cut the steering tube. Aren't modern 'innovations' like threadless _great?_


(I'm in full agreement).


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## kawarider (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks all! Does anyone know the reasoning behind the bike industry going to threadless stems? They must be better somehow, or why would they have changed?

Also, why do bike shops cut the steerer tube before the bike is sold? Wouldn't it be a better idea if they just wait until someone wants to buy the bike, and then if the person wants a lower bar height, THEN cut it? A bike might be otherwise perfect for someone, but they might not like the feel of it simply because the steerer tube was cut too short for his taste. Doesn't make any sense.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Answers*



kawarider said:


> Thanks all! Does anyone know the reasoning behind the bike industry going to threadless stems? They must be better somehow, or why would they have changed?
> 
> Also, why do bike shops cut the steerer tube before the bike is sold? Wouldn't it be a better idea if they just wait until someone wants to buy the bike, and then if the person wants a lower bar height, THEN cut it? A bike might be otherwise perfect for someone, but they might not like the feel of it simply because the steerer tube was cut too short for his taste. Doesn't make any sense.


The primary driver for threadless stems was that was how it was done in mountain bikes, and mountain bikes were the dominant technical driver at one point. The technical arguments for threadless are thin but that is a moot point now.

Bike shops don't, in 99.9 % of cases, cut the steerer tube. That is done at the factory. The factory assumes some "standard" fitting numbers and goes from there. The reality is, if you want a bike with a higher handlebar placement, you have to buy one. There is a limit on how many spacers you can put under the stem, and the factory will not exceed that. Often, bikes come with close to the maximum spacer stack height under the stem, so your only option is to lower the bars, not raise them.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

kawarider said:


> They must be better somehow, or why would they have changed?




wow.........please tell me you don't really believe that.......
Change is not ALWAYS better.....


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