# Reynolds Assault SLG



## mann2

Are they out in the US? Can't see any actual reviews. 

Modern tech and affordable. 41mm deep, 25mm wide. 1475g


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## Paul M

Just ordered a pair from Carbon Connection today. Will do a review when I get them. And there is no snow on the ground.


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## mann2

Please do, Paul M. Also, if ok, can you please post measurements of the shipping box they come in. I plan to get from Carbon Connection as well though I'll have it airmailed to me. Having dimensions will give me a shipping cost estimate. Many thanks!


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## Paul M

Will do. Make sure you call and ask for their discount like it says on the website. Will more than cover shipping


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## Wyville

I'm interested and contacted Reynolds a few weeks ago to get more information. Strangely, after talking to three people, I still don't know whether or not they are available over here in the Netherlands. 

They should be a good improvement over the older Assaults in terms of aerodynamics.


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## Paul M

*2014 Reynolds Assault SLG*























































Here are pics of the box, the measurements (I used my English/Metric tape measure so both are on there). Weights of the front and rear wheels without skewers. Also included pics of the width and height of the rims with my caliper in mm. It is 10 deg F outside and the winds are blowing 20-30 mph so don't expect a road review quite yet!


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## Paul M

*2014 Reynolds Assault SLG - the rest of the pics*

























Sorry about the rotation. Didn't think about that when taking the pictures, but they are still readable. Cannot wait to try these out. Been riding a 10+ year old set of Campy Protons which have been fantastic.


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## mann2

Many Thanks PaulM for the box measurements and congrats! Those wheels look awesome! I notice that the SLG is more pronounced than in my 46C's. And the 40.6 depth looks just right.


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## cru_jones

Paul...and rides in yet? These are on my short list of wheels to choose from. Thx.


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## mann2

I'll have mine by the end of the week. I'll make sure I write about them


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## Paul M

cru_jones said:


> Paul...and rides in yet? These are on my short list of wheels to choose from. Thx.


Yes finally. Rode for about 90 minutes. I would agree with other reviews about braking. 9-10. Great pads. I have Campy Chorus skeleton brakes. No flexing. Accelerate quickly. Corner well and ride very nice. No funky carbon wheel sounds. No harsh ride. I rode on broken pavement. Chip seal - oil on old pavement with gravel thrown on top. Rode over cracked pavement up steep hills. Fantastic wheelset. One of the best values out there. Other great choice would be Camoy Shamal Ultra - which my wife has and loves. My prior wheels were Campy Protons that were 12 years old.


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## TJay74

I would hope they are out, I've had my set here in OK since 10/2013. My only complaints on them have been the rear wheel coming out of true twice now. On my rides when I am up out of the saddle pushing up a hill I can hear creaking (may be spokes loosening up). 

I have less than 200 miles on mine and have been in the habit of watching the true of them after rides. Matter of fact the dealer is going to check them over again this weekend while they get me the correct pads (they gave away the Reynolds carbon blue pads so they gave me some Bontrager pads, Reynolds warranty specifically says you are required to use their pads for the warranty to be in place).


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## mann2

Great feedback PaulM! 

Can't wait to take mine out for a spin tomorrow!


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## mann2

I'm getting a lot of noise from the front wheel on moderate to hard braking scenarios. I isolated this to the front wheel as I switched pads from rear to front. 

When braking lightly you just get the usual hissing sound but what I'm complaining about is a loud almost howling sound. 

Any suggestions on how to fix? Aside from this, wheels are perfect.


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## jpaschal01

mann2 said:


> I'm getting a lot of noise from the front wheel on moderate to hard braking scenarios. I isolated this to the front wheel as I switched pads from rear to front.
> 
> When braking lightly you just get the usual hissing sound but what I'm complaining about is a loud almost howling sound.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix? Aside from this, wheels are perfect.


have you set the brake pad toed in? doing so eliminated brake squeal on my carbon rims (different brand).


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## scooterman

The blue pads suck up heat from the rim that why they are required for warranty. I will warn you too do not use those blue pads on any other carbon rims they will shred it up. 
Nice thing about those new reynolds wheels is you dont have to take off the tire to true them.


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## mann2

jpaschal01 said:


> have you set the brake pad toed in? doing so eliminated brake squeal on my carbon rims (different brand).


Yup, i did before my second ride. Rides a lot quieter now. I just used a small piece of bar tape to set the toe. 

I' gonna lower the pressure a bit more as the ride is a little rough  Currently at 85/90 and I weigh 170 lbs.


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## TJay74

i got my pads swapped out to the correct Reynolds blue pads. Shop provided me with the wrong pads. Shop also went thru the entire rear wheel again in trying to get it trued. Had it perfect on the stand and on the bike. Went out for a ride and wheel was popping and making noise immediately and is slightly out of true again.

May be calling Reynolds if this continues and making use of the RAP warranty I bought on the wheels.


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## T800

TJay74 said:


> i got my pads swapped out to the correct Reynolds blue pads. Shop provided me with the wrong pads. Shop also went thru the entire rear wheel again in trying to get it trued. Had it perfect on the stand and on the bike. Went out for a ride and wheel was popping and making noise immediately and is slightly out of true again.
> 
> May be calling Reynolds if this continues and making use of the RAP warranty I bought on the wheels.


I'm curious what caused that issue. 

I'm new to the forum and very interested in this wheelset. I wonder if it can handle 210 lbs rider. I called Reynolds and the rep told me it was not a problem at all. Any heavy rider on this wheelset?


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## scooterman

to the person with staying true issues, would you happen to be running tubeless or tubed tires?


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## ndbike

Two questions for those of you riding these wheels. 

1. Dose anyone know if they can be set up to run road tubeless with the right tires? 

2. What tire widths are you running? 23mm or 25mm? What´s recommended?

Thanks!


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## deviousalex

scooterman said:


> I will warn you too do not use those blue pads on any other carbon rims they will shred it up.



I've used the blue pads on other rims without issue.


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## Zen Cyclery

@ndbike- These wheels can definitely be setup tubeless. It's all about the right rim/tire interface.


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## ndbike

@Zen Cyclery Thanks for the confirmation on tubeless.

So the other question is what do modern aerodynamics say? 23mm or 25mm wide tires? I currently run 23mm tires on 23mm rims. Is the idea with 25mm rims to do the same or have a slightly narrower tire?

Thanks!


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## Zen Cyclery

@ndbike- Take a look at this article from Lennard Zinn. It should answer your question seeing as it address not only rolling resistance but aerodynamics of tire size. 

Tech FAQ: Again, bigger tires roll faster! - VeloNews.com

So in conclusion it really is dependent on the rim. For me the importance of aerodynamics if far outweighed by the ride quality of a tire, which is why I usually choose to go 25c at a slightly lower pressure.


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## wanton007

Has anyone tried the 62mm Strike SLG?


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## duffin

Zen Cyclery said:


> @ndbike- It's all about the right rim/tire interface.


Can you comment which tubeless tires work on these rims? Or did you mean something else with the comment


Zen Cyclery said:


> @ndbike- It's all about the right rim/tire interface.


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## TJay74

I am running Vitorria Diamante PRO tires, tubed in a 700cx23 size at 110-120psi.


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## Paul M

ndbike said:


> @Zen Cyclery Thanks for the confirmation on tubeless.
> 
> So the other question is what do modern aerodynamics say? 23mm or 25mm wide tires? I currently run 23mm tires on 23mm rims. Is the idea with 25mm rims to do the same or have a slightly narrower tire?
> 
> Thanks!


I am running Conti GP 4000, 23 mm with about 100-105 psi. I am 6 ft and weigh about 185 or so with gear on. No issues with rough rides. The tires are slightly wider than the rims. I went with the 23mm because that what my LBS had in stock and I didn't want to wait. Ridley Noah RS -large size with pedals, bottle cages and rear wheel Garmin sensor. Under 17 lbs without pedals.


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## bbrodriguez

has anyone tried the tubular version yet? curious as to the weight - reynolds only lists the clincher weight on their site.


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## ndbike

Just got my Industry Nine C41 wheels! These use the same rims as the Assault wheels we´ve been talking about here. I´ll try to get some pics up later.


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## jackmen

ndbike said:


> Just got my Industry Nine C41 wheels! These use the same rims as the Assault wheels we´ve been talking about here. I´ll try to get some pics up later.



These look nice , but they are priced the same as the regular reynolds wheels or even zipps. Don't understand how you can start a brand of wheel and price them just as high or higher than name brand wheels.


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## scooterman

the reason i asked about tubeless was not because of weather it would work or not. But because i've noticed tubeless tires tend to put more pressure inward on the rim and the spokes de-tension a little. I sound weird i know, but try it. It's true, even no tubes says to tension the alpha's to 125kgf when run tubeless.


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## deviousalex

jackmen said:


> These look nice , but they are priced the same as the regular reynolds wheels or even zipps. Don't understand how you can start a brand of wheel and price them just as high or higher than name brand wheels.


+1. I was talking to a local builder who can source Reynolds rims and he said he would sell a set with the same rims for $1200-1400 depending on the hubs. I looked at a set he had and the hubs were some of the smoothest I had felt, not sure what brand though.


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## jackmen

deviousalex said:


> +1. I was talking to a local builder who can source Reynolds rims and he said he would sell a set with the same rims for $1200-1400 depending on the hubs. I looked at a set he had and the hubs were some of the smoothest I had felt, not sure what brand though.


Who is this Guy. I want him to build me some too.


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## ndbike

By agreement with Reynolds, Industry Nine is required to price above standard Reynolds built wheels. However, the Industry Nine hubs are leaps and bounds above what the stock Reynolds wheels offer. Think of what, better known, Chris King hubs would cost built into these rims. I9 hubs are as good if not better than Chris King. For what its worth, the Industry Nine build is lighter too. Mine came in at 1400gr. Plus I got some cool green anodized hubs that Reynolds doesn't offer on their builds.


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## cru_jones

We'll I decided to go with the 2014 Attacks vs the Assault. Building a lightweight, non-racing Supersix Evo, so went with the shallower option (considering I already have a pair of 38mm carbon clinchers and 50mm carbon tubulars).

Having them laced up with Sapim CX-Rays on black I9 Torch hubs...they are due tomorrow, so I'll post up some pics/weight when the arrive.

I almost went with the std Reynolds build to save a few $100 (and JensonUSA was giving away the warranty replacement deal for free!)...but just didn't read enough good things about the hubs that Reynolds uses. Lots of good reviews on the I9s, but never had a pair before. (I do have a wheelset with CK's so I can compare now.)


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## ndbike

@cru_jones, I think you'll really like the new torch hubs. I've been riding a set on the mtb now since the end if october and got to ride my C41s home from work today. The engagement is instantaneous and the weight is excellent too. With that being said and to not hijack the post the Reynolds rims are really sweet and these definitely feel faster than my previous wheels. The 41mm profile is perfect in crosswinds and they accelerate really well too.


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## changingleaf

It sounds like the tension is way too low. The shop may have loosened spokes more to bring in the true.


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## changingleaf

Any tubeless tire will work on those rims. The proper setup is what he means by interface. That setup is just air-tight tape and valve. It's a good idea to inflate a tube inside the tire after the tape is installed to compress it to the rim better because the carbon is not as smooth as aluminum.


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## Cinelli 82220

changingleaf said:


> It's a good idea to inflate a tube inside the tire


How is a tire with a tube inside it tubeless?


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## deviousalex

jackmen said:


> Who is this Guy. I want him to build me some too.


Unfortunately I lost his contact info. I was 4 beers in after my first CX race when i was talking to him. I think a friend of mine knows him, so if I get his info I'll PM you.


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## changingleaf

Of course you don't leave the tube in there... Inflate for an hour or so to compress the tape and then remove the tube, install the tubeless valve stem, tubeless tire and sealant and inflate tubeless.


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## ndbike

Here's the pics I promised.


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## scooterman

I beat the piss out of a reynolds KT "china junk" rear hub and it had zero issues 10k miles maybe more. I sold a customer a i9 torch (6 months maybe) and some of you probably know how those go... Just saying


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## deviousalex

scooterman said:


> I beat the piss out of a reynolds KT "china junk" rear hub and it had zero issues 10k miles maybe more. I sold a customer a i9 torch (6 months maybe) and some of you probably know how those go... Just saying


I destroyed the bearings in one of those in 1k miles and then Reynolds returned it to me with the freehub body very very loose inside.


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## scooterman

deviousalex said:


> I destroyed the bearings in one of those in 1k miles and then Reynolds returned it to me with the freehub body very very loose inside.


did your hub have the 6 pawls on the inside of the hub shell with the drive ring on the freehub? Thats what i have never an issue.


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## ndbike

I'm almost sorry to have interjected with the I9 option with the Assault SLG rim at this point. I just wanted to show I got something that is the same but different. Wasn't meant to have folks start bashing either brand. I'm super happy with my wheels. Their light, aesthetically pleasing to me, really fast, and different from what everyone else has. Or in other words exactly what I was looking for. Good luck with the arguments, I'll be unsubscribing from this post now.


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## cru_jones

So my 2014 Attacks showed up. Put front tire on. Picked up rear tire and heard clicking. If you rotate the wheel (i.e. like when on the bike...) there is _something_ moving around inside the rim. I can't imagine it would be a nipple from the wheel build but maybe a piece of excess carbon from the whole drilling. Regardless I removed the rim tape I paid for and was unable to get whatever it is to come near a hole and come out...so far not happy. Will be calling the wheel builder Monday. I noticed it within a fee seconds of picking up the wheel, so I would hope it happened after the build because if that was present when rotating the wheel a few dozen times alone during the build then that is concerning...


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## T800

I just received the wheels today. I noticed the brake pads do not fit to my brake shoes (Ultegra) well. After inserting the brake pad and tightening the screw, the pad can be moved a little bit forward and backward. I don't think it's safe and I believe it didn't happen to my stock and Swissstop brake pads. Any idea? 

Since the pads do not tell you which side, the word "Reynolds by Brakco" should face up (on the top), correct?


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## mann2

^ yup. Wording should be face up. Besides, you won't be able to tighten the screw if it's not in the right orientation. Mine just says 'Reynolds' though.


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## cru_jones

Yes, mine just say Reynolds.

They have a slight arc to them to match the arc of the rim, so are tough to put in wrong. They should have an L for left and an R for right, as well as an arrow indicating direciton (and sometimes the word forward or front). The word FRONT doesn't mean front brakes, pads are interchangeable.

BTW, my issue was indeed a nipple that had been dropped in the rim. Apparently it happens often, but is easy to detect with a metallic rim. The nipple will sometimes get caught in the carbon flash inside (maybe from the bladder as well depending on the wheel design) and you don't hear it right away...but after traveling 2000 miles in a box, it may have come loose. Unfortunately I did have to remove the rim tape to expose the valve stem hole enough.


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## T800

I checked Reynold's website - under Shop tab, looked like the wording "Reynolds" is Cryo-Blue Brake Pads, and Cryo-Blue Power Brake Pads has "Reynolds by Brakco" on them. Anyway, do you guys think if it's ok to ride since the brake pads do not fit that well?


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## cru_jones

T800 said:


> I checked Reynold's website - under Shop tab, looked like the wording "Reynolds" is Cryo-Blue Brake Pads, and Cryo-Blue Power Brake Pads has "Reynolds by Brakco" on them. Anyway, do you guys think if it's ok to ride since the brake pads do not fit that well?


Can you post a photo of what you're seeing?


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## T800

cru_jones said:


> Can you post a photo of what you're seeing?


Here you go.


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## bikerneil

I am considering this Assault wheel vs. the more expensive Aero 46 wheel. Has anyone else ridden both for comparison purposes? 

The Aero costs an extra $1K. Is it worth it? It's a little wider at 26.2, rather than 25.0 for the Assault.


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## changingleaf

It's safe. The front of the brake caliper holds the pad in during braking forces. The screw is only there to keep the pad in if you hold the brake down and roll the bike backwards.


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## changingleaf

I have not seen a comparison of aero data between the two, but I lean toward the Assault. 
- It has the "swirl lip generator" to keep air flow around the rim. 
- It has external nipples, which makes it a little more user friendly. 
- It has a Tubeless ready bead seat so a tubeless tire will center better and inflate easier vs. the U-shape internal of the Aero. 
- The Assault is 1mm wider on the inside.
- Because the Assault rim has a blunted shape it may be better in cross winds.
- The Assault rim is lighter and is a great value for a custom wheelset.


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## deviousalex

It is odd that Reynolds is pursuing very different shapes for their wheels. Then they claim both kick the competitors butt. It kinda doesn't add up.


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## mann2

by how much does the pad move?


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## T800

mann2 said:


> by how much does the pad move?


about 1mm.


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## Zen Cyclery

duffin said:


> Can you comment which tubeless tires work on these rims? Or did you mean something else with the comment


My previous post may have been somewhat misleading. Any tubeless tire will work with this setup. What's more important is the interface between the tire and rim. I've found that the easiest and most durable tubeless conversion is to simply go with Gorilla tape and Stans valves. The Gorilla tape can be cut to the exact inner width of the rim. You simply do one full layer and have it overlap at the valvehole. Once the tape is set take an old spoke and poke a hole through the tape at the valve hole. Slip the valve through and tighten it down, and POOF, you have a tubeless ready wheelset.


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## mtor

Paul M said:


> View attachment 289635
> View attachment 289636
> View attachment 289637
> View attachment 289638
> Sorry about the rotation. Didn't think about that when taking the pictures, but they are still readable. Cannot wait to try these out. Been riding a 10+ year old set of Campy Protons which have been fantastic.


I should be getting mine this week cant wait


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## duffin

Zen Cyclery said:


> My previous post may have been somewhat misleading. Any tubeless tire will work with this setup. What's more important is the interface between the tire and rim. I've found that the easiest and most durable tubeless conversion is to simply go with Gorilla tape and Stans valves. The Gorilla tape can be cut to the exact inner width of the rim. You simply do one full layer and have it overlap at the valvehole. Once the tape is set take an old spoke and poke a hole through the tape at the valve hole. Slip the valve through and tighten it down, and POOF, you have a tubeless ready wheelset.


I've tried Gorilla tape and discovered that it can run up into the areas the bead needs to hook onto causing bead failure. It's happened to me twice and I went to normal tubeless rim tape (doubled).


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## TJay74

Just to update the thread in my Reynolds Assault wheels. I have about 400 miles on them and so far I've had the rear trued 3 times now going on the 4th. Only put 50 miles on it since the LBS I bought the wheels from trued it again. First ride right out of truing and getting the wheels mounted back on the bike I had issues. As soon as I stood up out of the saddle the rear was "pinging" and making sounds. My thought is the nipples are slipping.

Well get about 50 miles in and had to take the bike to my preferred LBS to change out a bottom bracket. While there my normal tech noticed the wheel wasn't true again. Go back over the LBS I got the wheels from and get a who rash of crap bashing other shops and making it sound like they are the end all be all to bicycle mechanics.

They call Reynolds who says ship both wheels in then call me and tell me they are the only ones who can do any true work on these wheels or else they are not going to assist in warranty issues (even though I have the RAP on these wheels as well).

I was pretty livid to say the least, $1800 wheels and they are pretty much demanding I drive 40 miles round trip if I have true issues with the wheels.

I spoke with Reynolds and got a completely different feeling, they said it sounds like either some nipples didn't get enough spoke lock or bad spokes/nipples. They are going to rebuild the wheels front and rear with new spokes, nipples and spoke lock and send them back.

Not happy at this point. I race MTB for my preferred shop, shop mgr really wants me to get on a set of Bontrager Aelous 3's. Now to decide if I want to ride on the Reynolds when I get them back or sell them for a loss and have to add some to the pot to get into a different set of wheels.


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## deviousalex

That sucks. Maybe try and return them?

My (2012 I think) Assault's didn't have truing problems but the rear bearings got trashed in about a year. I sent them for service and it came back and the rear wheel was making noise. I started disassembling the rear hub to figure I could see what's going on and it turns out they didn't properly tighten something inside the freehub. I don't trust their mechanics to do a thorough job honestly.


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## TJay74

Outside of returning them at this point, bought them 10/2013.


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## changingleaf

That's too bad about the wheelset. I recently built a set of wheels with the new Assault rims and powertap hubs and they've been extremely durable. No truing necessary. The rims are very round and strong. It looks yours just weren't built well and the tension was too low. I'm glad that Reynolds is going to rebuild them for you. I've heard of issues with Bontrager wheels as well, but I think these may be isolated incidents.


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## TJay74

Yeah though I get a nice discount on the Bontrager wheels I am probably going to give the Reynolds one more shot, if they give me anymore issues I may make a claim under the RAP program get new wheels and sell them and move on.


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## dkilburn

Good Morning,
The Reynolds Assault I have with about 1800 miles on them and no problems.
Wet braking not the best with their pads. After a wet ride I use alcohol to clean the pads and wheel / brake surface. I make sure the pads are very clean, no rode grim. After that they brake very good on the dry.
They are still true and have not needed a adjustment so far.

.


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## TJay74

I got mine back this week and back on the bike. Initial ride (15 miles) ended with no issues. Hopefully this weekend I can put some more miles on them and see if they really are good to go.


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## TJay74

Well the news is in, 77 miles and the rear is out of true now. Front is slightly out as well. I will be on the phone with Reynolds on Monday to find out the next step, at this point I am done with this set and will be leaning towards having them exchanged out for another set or having my credit card company assist in any way they can as well.


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## TJay74

Got some good news today, Reynolds is sending me pre-paid labels to ship the wheels back. Manager said the shop told them I weighed 150lbs (200lbs) which if Reynolds had known that they would have proceeded another way.

So for the hassle of having to send the wheels back in again they are putting DT Swiss 240 hubs in front and rear, Aerolite spokes and cross lacing the wheels. Warranty person said this will reduce the weight of the set some and come in under the advertised weight.

Sucks, but in the end it will be worth it.


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## mclgreenville

looking at these wheels but running dura ace 10. Will that work w/ an insert?


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## wanton007

mclgreenville said:


> looking at these wheels but running dura ace 10. Will that work w/ an insert?


I'm running Ultegra 10 speed with Reynolds Strike SLG which are 10/11 speed compatible. They come with spacers so you can still use your 10 speed set up.


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## mclgreenville

wanton007 said:


> I'm running Ultegra 10 speed with Reynolds Strike SLG which are 10/11 speed compatible. They come with spacers so you can still use your 10 speed set up.


Thanks!

Been looking at wheel sets for about 6 months and these seem to be the best in class for the price. 
I'm curious to know what everyones second choice was that lost out to the Assaults.

I'm also looking at 
- Roval CLX 40. $500 more, 100g lighter.
- Mavic Cosmic 40. $700, 100g heavier
- Bontrager 5 D3. $500, 75g heavier but 50 depth.


Also curious to see if folks are buying from LBS or somewhere like Wheelbuilder.


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## wanton007

mclgreenville said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Been looking at wheel sets for about 6 months and these seem to be the best in class for the price.
> I'm curious to know what everyones second choice was that lost out to the Assaults.
> 
> I'm also looking at
> - Roval CLX 40. $500 more, 100g lighter.
> - Mavic Cosmic 40. $700, 100g heavier
> - Bontrager 5 D3. $500, 75g heavier but 50 depth.
> 
> 
> Also curious to see if folks are buying from LBS or somewhere like Wheelbuilder.


My choice came down to price. Art's had them for $200 cheaper than anyone else, and then they also had a 20% off code so it brought them to an even better deal. I'm in Canada so I had them shipped to Bellingham, and then used some transport service to get them over the border for $20.


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## mclgreenville

wanton007 said:


> My choice came down to price. Art's had them for $200 cheaper than anyone else, and then they also had a 20% off code so it brought them to an even better deal. I'm in Canada so I had them shipped to Bellingham, and then used some transport service to get them over the border for $20.


Good inf


Good info. They are listed at $1665 at Arts. That's a decent price . 20% off would help. LOL


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## SwiftSolo

The disc brake version of the SLG came on my wife's e-bike (Haibike super race). They look pretty good. We just got it--to early to have an opinion.


mann2 said:


> Are they out in the US? Can't see any actual reviews.
> 
> Modern tech and affordable. 41mm deep, 25mm wide. 1475g
> 
> View attachment 289502


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## crank1979

I've been told the 2015 version will be in Australia in February so I'm holding out for these. Then I can run a nice carbon wheelset tubeless.


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## deviousalex

SPECIAL! Custom Reynolds Attack Wheelset with American Classic Hubs and Sapim CX-Super Spokes - Wheelbuilder.com

Wheelbuilder has a special on the Attacks right now. Clincher wheelset that comes in at 1200g. Crazy.


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## wanton007

mclgreenville said:


> Good inf
> 
> 
> Good info. They are listed at $1665 at Arts. That's a decent price . 20% off would help. LOL


Check your PM's


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## crank1979

Has anyone else had issues with the nipples corroding on their Reynolds Assault SLG wheels?


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## crank1979

crank1979 said:


> Has anyone else had issues with the nipples corroding on their Reynolds Assault SLG wheels?


Apparently it wasn't corrosion. It was the spoke prep suddenly liquifying that looked like corrosion.


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