# Road bike for a fat guy?



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Hi All, I'm about 6'0" on a good day, and about 230lbs, 30-31" inseam. I've got a wedding to attend (my own, ha) in October and I'd like to drop a bit of weight and get in better shape. Going to the gym is pretty nice, but I want something else to supplement my workouts. So, I thought, why not a road bike?

My budget is probably around $800, maybe a bit less. I do not plan on doing any sort of competitive riding, or doing too many hills (at least to start). Also, it would be nice if a helmet and "riding gear" could fit in that budget, as well. I am in decent shape, but I do get winded pretty fast in, say, a game of basketball. I can run a mile at a somewhat slow pace, and I think my lungs give out before my legs. I'd like to buy a quality bike because I'm afraid of breaking something "cheap" under my weight. Oh, I also have sort of a bad lower back, so maybe some advice for the type of geometry I would need is in order. 

Looking for something comfortable, not necessarily fast, and something that can go a bit "off-road" (i.e. on a slightly less-than-perfect paved trail). 

Thanks all.


----------



## simplyhankk (Jan 30, 2008)

i know this is a biking forum but from my own experience, running is a much more efficient way (although definitely not easier) and you can use many other muscles more frequently than that of biking. Although I will have to agree that biking is a whole lot more fun (faster, cooler, feel the wind, etc.) Most bikes are strong enough to hold most types of bodies but i think the wheels are more important than anything else. A lot of of the rear wheel flexes so if you have a set of good wheels you're set. the ones i know of are Easton Vista, not too expensive, and durable. If you are willing to pay more the Mavic Ksyrium are pretty popular too.


----------



## twinkles (Apr 23, 2007)

A cyclocross bike sounds like it fits the bill for you. They are basically road bikes with fatter tires and mountain bike V brakes. Kona Jake the Snake are nice and reasonably priced. Go to the cyclocross forum to talk to the experts. good luck

twinkles


----------



## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

You should lose the weight first, THEN buy a bike. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Dave_Stohler said:


> You should lose the weight first, THEN buy a bike. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.


Ha, lighten up, bud - I'm sure there are as many of you riders tired of "newbies" as there are drivers tired of ALL riders.


----------



## blackhat (Jan 2, 2003)

buy a touring bike. bikesdirect has one for 600 shipped IIRC.


----------



## YuriB (Mar 24, 2005)

Dave_Stohler said:


> I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.


I live for a day when lard-butt poseurs are clogging the roads mashing in the high gear at 5 mph rather than mashing the gas pedel going 85.

Sounds like an entry level cross bike would fit the bill. Bianchi Volpe or an equivalent would work.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

YuriB said:


> I live for a day when lard-butt poseurs are clogging the roads mashing in the high gear at 5 mph rather than mashing the gas pedel going 85.
> 
> Sounds like an entry level cross bike would fit the bill. Bianchi Volpe or an equivalent would work.


YuriB, thanks, i was looking at that one. Any ideas on who stocks these online?


----------



## vsimmons (Sep 21, 2007)

Don't let these little knuckleheads discourage you, Moscow. My heritage is bodybuilding, and cycling is an awesome way to get rid of body fat and increase your metabolism. Running is not the best for big guys (I'm 200 pounds, 5'9", and lean) because it will shorten joint life. Cycling is awesome. You are on the right track. Don't be afraid to step up and get a quality bike. Educate yourself here. You can do it. You don't want to look like those who would discourage you anyhow. Most competitive cyclists are teeny little guys, and most are very friendly and helpful. However, some are a bit nasty like this little punk Dave Stohler. Ignore them. Press on! Stay with the gym. Lift heavy and consistently. Ride long.


----------



## Centuryx3 (Jul 21, 2005)

1. You should not worry about breaking anything of your weight.

2. Any bicycle seriously recommended by readers of this board will not break because of your weight. In contradiction to the discouraging comments of some, you aint that fat!

3. Get a helmet, shorts, and spend the balance on a bicycle. Go ride and start sweating ASAP. Ignore any elitists.


----------



## YuriB (Mar 24, 2005)

Moscow said:


> YuriB, thanks, i was looking at that one. Any ideas on who stocks these online?


I don't think you'll find any new ones online.
Check out the Surly Cross Check - those you will find online.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

vsimmons said:


> Don't let these little knuckleheads discourage you, Moscow. My heritage is bodybuilding, and cycling is an awesome way to get rid of body fat and increase your metabolism. Running is not the best for big guys (I'm 200 pounds, 5'9", and lean) because it will shorten joint life. Cycling is awesome. You are on the right track. Don't be afraid to step up and get a quality bike. Educate yourself here. You can do it. You don't want to look like those who would discourage you anyhow. Most competitive cyclists are teeny little guys, and most are very friendly and helpful. However, some are a bit nasty like this little punk Dave Stohler. Ignore them. Press on! Stay with the gym. Lift heavy and consistently. Ride long.


Thank you, vsimmons. I used to powerlift until my back problems (and some loose shoulders helped, as well) stopped me, and I was in better shape then. I appreciate your encouraging words  I will continue to pursue thing the way I want, and won't stop to listen to negativity - life's too short for that.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Centuryx3 said:


> 1. You should not worry about breaking anything of your weight.
> 
> 2. Any bicycle seriously recommended by readers of this board will not break because of your weight. In contradiction to the discouraging comments of some, you aint that fat!
> 
> 3. Get a helmet, shorts, and spend the balance on a bicycle. Go ride and start sweating ASAP. Ignore any elitists.


Thanks, Century. Where is the best place to get shorts and a helmet? Online, or at an LBS? Also, any recommendations on helmets? One that fits, I suppose?


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

YuriB said:


> I don't think you'll find any new ones online.
> Check out the Surly Cross Check - those you will find online.


Alright, thanks. I have had a fascination with Bianchis for a long time, for some reason. One of those "things" I guess...


----------



## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

yeah, budget needs some rethinking... if you can only spend 800, set your sights lower cuz you'll need a helmet and perhaps other stuff (bottle+cage, pump, patch kit/spare tube, bag, computer, gloves, pedals/shoes, shorts/jersey, etc). consider used for a better "deal"


----------



## MTT (Oct 14, 2005)

I read maybe half the posts, did anyone mention he might get a good bike for less if he goes used? If you like the cyclocross idea, the best time to pick up a great deal is the end of November/ first part of December. The season is over and guys that bought bikes for one racing season and didn't like them are itching to sell. Maybe ride a few bikes, see how the different companys feel and fit, then check craigs list every day. At your weight you might consider disc brakes, if you plan to ride big hills. Good luck and may the Swartz be wit ya............MTT :thumbsup:


----------



## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

You are not so heavy that weight will be a big object. When folks are over 275 and start asking, then I am inclined to suggest a mountain bike, but at 230 you aren't going to be breaking anything, particularly since your budget will have you in the aluminum and steel market.

Unless you are a freak of nature, though, your cycling inseam is not possibly 30-31 inches. I'm a 5'7" inch female and mine is 31.75". Cycling inseam is not the same as pants inseam, so I just don't want you to be shopping the wrong sized frames.


----------



## baking3 (Jul 21, 2004)

I wouldn't worry about it. I started at about your weight and dropped 45 lbs. in about 6 months doing nothing but riding. Just don't buy anything with crazy low-spoke-count wheels. A cross bike would be a good option. To start with, buy everything from Nashbar on sale (helmet, shorts, etc.). Upgrade after you fall in love with the sport (which *will* happen!).


----------



## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

First of all, at 230...running will absolutely kill your knees!!!
I'm 5'10" with a 32 inch inseam and the 56 cm road bike is great for me. I bet your like a 54cm or even a 55. I weighed 225 on January 1st and now I'm 208. I ride Cannondale because their frames have very little flex. Check with your local bike shop for a used model that you could try out. Used Cannondales are easily found for 800 dollars or less. You can pick up good deals on helmets, shorts, and jerseys on bikenashbar.com or performance.com. Then you can go ride with your local bike club and learn a whole lot, and get hooked like me. 
This is my 56cm road bike that will most likely sell for way less than 800 bucks on ebay. I'm buying a new ride real soon.

Have fun riding. In club cycling we come in all different sizes!!!

http://www.nashbar.com/

http://www.performancebike.com/


----------



## Cruzer2424 (Feb 8, 2005)

@ 230 you're not THAT heavy. I mean at least not past an unreasonable weight for most bikes... and plus if you plan on losing it, you're not going to be that high for long. I think pretty much the only thing you should look out for are full carbon seatposts (carbon wrapped ones are okay-- although you typically won't find those in your price range) and low spoke count wheels (anything less than maybe 24).

i think a regular road bike would be fine as long as you're ginger with it over potholes, curbs and the like while you're over about 210 still. 

another thing you might want to do is raise the price limit a bit. I always tell newbies you need about $1k to get into cycling. it amounts up to about $600 for a bike, and the other $400 for pedals, shoes, clothes, helmet, pump, accessories... etc etc. Although it's always given you could get away with a little less if you do a lot of shopping.... but that's up to you. 

as far as geometery goes... a cyclocross bike does work, but once your weight is gone, you might want something else. 

Felt Z100: http://www.feltracing.com/08/product.asp?catid=1504,1515&pid=8682

Nice and upright... carbon wrapped seatpost, carbon fork, high spoke count wheels... Make sure, when you're talking to a sales person to ask for a "comfort" road bike. Some examples, Specialized Roubaix (vs Tarmac), Felt Z series (vs. F series), cannondale synapse (vs. system/super six)...

keep us posted on your weight loss! haha. and good luck!


----------



## desmo13 (Jun 28, 2006)

I started at 270lbs. got a cannondale r500, has performed flawless. lost 50 pounds in 6 months, gained 20 back over the summer (camping, drinking beer, not riding road bike) and lost that 20+ again since sept. (had to take half of december and half of january off from non-cycling related injury.

Road biking is very effective to lose weight. 230lbs is not that heavy

230 is not that heavy


----------



## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

With your back issues, don't skimp on the floor work - learn some basic pilates / core exercises - in fact this month's (March 08) issue of Bicycling has a good article, page 47. 

And learn to stretch, esp the hamstrings and glutes. 

Also plan on replacing the stem so you can get a higher handlebar position. I know from experience, at 230 the gut can interfere w/ breathing, plus having to bend around it can tweak the back. 

Dirty little secret: you don't really need all the lycra crap. I've used lined swim trunks for rides up to 90 minutes, no prob for the parts. I've used sneakers on flat pedals for 80 mile days. No problem. If you want to get that stuff, get it, but it's by no means critical.

Otherwise, any decent bike with solid wheels (at least 32 spokes IMO) should do ya fine.


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Hi All, I'm about 6'0" on a good day, and about 230lbs, 30-31" inseam. I've got a wedding to attend (my own, ha) in October and I'd like to drop a bit of weight and get in better shape. Going to the gym is pretty nice, but I want something else to supplement my workouts. So, I thought, why not a road bike?
> 
> My budget is probably around $800, maybe a bit less. I do not plan on doing any sort of competitive riding, or doing too many hills (at least to start). Also, it would be nice if a helmet and "riding gear" could fit in that budget, as well. I am in decent shape, but I do get winded pretty fast in, say, a game of basketball. I can run a mile at a somewhat slow pace, and I think my lungs give out before my legs. I'd like to buy a quality bike because I'm afraid of breaking something "cheap" under my weight. Oh, I also have sort of a bad lower back, so maybe some advice for the type of geometry I would need is in order.
> 
> ...



I started my bike quest with a discussion from my two brothers-in-law and an a buddy of mine to do Ride The Rockies in 2005. I got a bike in December 2004. The first ride was 4 miles long and just about killed me. Was ready to do the ride in June 2005: 405 miles from Grand Junction to Breckenridge and a bunch of serious hills in between.

Now I got out on a weekend morning for 30-50 miles as a "casual" ride. When I started I was 6'2" and 265lbs. Now hovering about 240lbs. 

I was absolutely stunned by the amount of weight loss with only slight changes in diet. Now I have caught the fitness bug and working with a personal trainer once a week (and in the gym a time or two more a week by myself) to tone up the muscles. Diet has improved considerably too over the past few years. 

Once you get your bike, check out www.ridetherockies.com and look under "training." There is a really good schedule there for training -- it starts slow and builds up over the weeks. Add some weight training and slight modifications in your diet, and throw in some hills to climb and you'll have all the weight loss (and, ahem, stamina) that you'll need for October. 

As for your bike, $800 is a decent budget and should get you a decent bike. The only thing I would not compromise on is the forks. Get a bike with carbon fiber forks (at least). They will absorb most of the road vibration and make your ride smooth. Carbon fiber seat post: same thing, but you can add this on later without too much difficulty/cost. Ride on 700x25 tires -- the added width makes the bike a little less "edgy" (but all kinds of people will tell me that this is not true, YMMV). Make certain you get a good "fit" to your bike too -- small changes in position of seat posts, handlebars, etc. can have enormous effect - literally one-eighth of a inch (or smaller) can mean the difference between a nice ride and legendary pain. 

After you get the "bug" you can upgrade the wheels, cycle computer, and begin to talk about grams of weight saved by the $100 gee-gaw you bought for your bike that makes you faster. Even though, like most of us, you'll benefit more by not eating the donut. 

Clipless pedals are a good idea too -- they let you use all the muscles in your legs (you get to use the "pull up" motion while pedaling). Start with something cheap and easy to maintain and easy to use: SPD cleats. Shimano has some cheap pedals and you can get MTB shoes -- these usually recess the SPD cleat on the shoe and have traction like a tennis shoe so you can walk (sort of) regular. Adjust the cleats on the lowest setting until you are used to clipping in and out of them.

As for clothes, I use Pearl Izumi (www.pearlizumi.com) A little pricey but the stuff runs to American sizes and lasts a long time -- after riding about 15K miles over the past three years, I still the PI gear I bought when I started. You can also check out clearance/returns area at Nashbar (www.nashbar.com) Remember that cheap doesn't necessarily equate with value, and sometimes more expensive is just that: more expensive. 

Poke around the forums here. There are lots of good tips to be found. Make it a goal to ride a century by August (100 miles in a day). Find and organized one around your area. You'll have something to work towards and an incredible sense of accomplishment once you did it. Trust me, everyone on this site knows when, and what it was like to work towards and complete their first century ride. (I-DID-THAT!)

Of course, once you have have caught the cycling bug, you'll then have the problem of keeping the mistress happy (the one you are marrying in October). Egad!

Keep pedaling!


----------



## Travis (Oct 14, 2005)

all great advice, I would recommend the cross bikes mentioned and have a bianchi axis that is pretty sweet. Without a biking background I would encourage you to buy it locally from a respected bike shop to get a good bike fit. Avoid unnecessary aches and pains by going with professional bike fitting ... you should hear a frame size in the range of 52/53 to 55/56 cms

Get out there and start riding, cheers


----------



## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*Welcome Moscow*

get on that bike and don't listen to these naysayers

get a decent steel bike like the Volpe. When you start dropping some lbs and get more into cycling come over to the merckx board and join the "I want an MXL Club"


----------



## Bocephus Jones II (Oct 7, 2004)

ColoradoVeloDude said:


> I started my bike quest with a discussion from my two brothers-in-law and an a buddy of mine to do Ride The Rockies in 2005. I got a bike in December 2004. The first ride was 4 miles long and just about killed me. Was ready to do the ride in June 2005: 405 miles from Grand Junction to Breckenridge and a bunch of serious hills in between.
> 
> Now I got out on a weekend morning for 30-50 miles as a "casual" ride. When I started I was 6'2" and 265lbs. Now hovering about 240lbs.
> 
> ...


you doing RTR this year? Looks like a good route.


----------



## Area Man (Jun 29, 2004)

To "Dave Stohler": I am certain that in your private life, no one can stand you. G.f.y.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Hopefully I can reply to EVERYONE in one post - THANK YOU to all!



FatTireFred said:


> yeah, budget needs some rethinking... if you can only spend 800, set your sights lower cuz you'll need a helmet and perhaps other stuff (bottle+cage, pump, patch kit/spare tube, bag, computer, gloves, pedals/shoes, shorts/jersey, etc). consider used for a better "deal"


Ah, I see. I will be looking at used, but I feel that I definitely need to go to a bike store and get measured and fitted, hopefully for no charge, or a nominal fee. I can't afford $100 for a fit in case I don't buy from that store.  



MTT said:


> I read maybe half the posts, did anyone mention he might get a good bike for less if he goes used? If you like the cyclocross idea, the best time to pick up a great deal is the end of November/ first part of December. The season is over and guys that bought bikes for one racing season and didn't like them are itching to sell. Maybe ride a few bikes, see how the different companys feel and fit, then check craigs list every day. At your weight you might consider disc brakes, if you plan to ride big hills. Good luck and may the Swartz be wit ya............MTT


Well, sadly we're past Nov/Dec - maybe there are still deals to be had? I'll definitely try and check out the bikes... Thanks, MTT  O



JayTee said:


> You are not so heavy that weight will be a big object. When folks are over 275 and start asking, then I am inclined to suggest a mountain bike, but at 230 you aren't going to be breaking anything, particularly since your budget will have you in the aluminum and steel market.
> 
> Unless you are a freak of nature, though, your cycling inseam is not possibly 30-31 inches. I'm a 5'7" inch female and mine is 31.75". Cycling inseam is not the same as pants inseam, so I just don't want you to be shopping the wrong sized frames.


Oh! I had no idea... ha! Oh well, I guess I must have a bigger inseam than I thought - is there a calculator for this? I know a bike store would be best, but maybe I can calculate something in the meanwhile. 



baking3 said:


> I wouldn't worry about it. I started at about your weight and dropped 45 lbs. in about 6 months doing nothing but riding. Just don't buy anything with crazy low-spoke-count wheels. A cross bike would be a good option. To start with, buy everything from Nashbar on sale (helmet, shorts, etc.). Upgrade after you fall in love with the sport (which *will* happen!).


WOW, congrats! 45 pounds is great! So what's a low spoke count? Less than 20? I don't really even know what a higher/lower spoke count means... :blush2: Thanks a lot for the Nashbar tip!



Hooben said:


> First of all, at 230...running will absolutely kill your knees!!!
> I'm 5'10" with a 32 inch inseam and the 56 cm road bike is great for me. I bet your like a 54cm or even a 55. I weighed 225 on January 1st and now I'm 208. I ride Cannondale because their frames have very little flex. Check with your local bike shop for a used model that you could try out. Used Cannondales are easily found for 800 dollars or less. You can pick up good deals on helmets, shorts, and jerseys on bikenashbar.com or performance.com. Then you can go ride with your local bike club and learn a whole lot, and get hooked like me.
> This is my 56cm road bike that will most likely sell for way less than 800 bucks on ebay. I'm buying a new ride real soon.
> 
> ...


First off, really nice looking bike - kinda like a Darth Vader look, awesome. Secondly, congrats on the weight loss! (I'm noticing a pattern here...) Do most bike shops have used inventories? I called a LBS and was quoted $1300 for a bike that is $900 online - is this normal, or did I call the wrong spot? (it received great reviews on www.yelp.com) What do I get for spending so much more at the LBS? What are you looking to buy next? 



Cruzer2424 said:


> @ 230 you're not THAT heavy. I mean at least not past an unreasonable weight for most bikes... and plus if you plan on losing it, you're not going to be that high for long. I think pretty much the only thing you should look out for are full carbon seatposts (carbon wrapped ones are okay-- although you typically won't find those in your price range) and low spoke count wheels (anything less than maybe 24).
> 
> i think a regular road bike would be fine as long as you're ginger with it over potholes, curbs and the like while you're over about 210 still.
> 
> ...


Wow that's a lot to spend on accessories... my b-day is coming up, maybe my fiance can support this new found hobby, eh?  Anyway, that Felt looks great! Seems to have LOTS of higher end stuff (the carbon fiber) for a good price (MSRP under $700). Are they skimping/cutting corners somewhere? I have no idea how to take in all that bike info on their site... is it a bike I can grow into to ability wise? Thanks a ton for all that useful info man! And I will keep you guys posted for sure!



desmo13 said:


> I started at 270lbs. got a cannondale r500, has performed flawless. lost 50 pounds in 6 months, gained 20 back over the summer (camping, drinking beer, not riding road bike) and lost that 20+ again since sept. (had to take half of december and half of january off from non-cycling related injury.
> 
> Road biking is very effective to lose weight. 230lbs is not that heavy
> 
> 230 is not that heavy


 Wow, again, congrats on the weight loss! Sounds lame, but I "want to be just like you guys" when I grow up. I know, corny, but that's how I feel. :blush2: 230 is heavy for me... I don't want to be that "chubby" guy, even though most people put at at under 200 pounds by looks (I wear it well, I guess) it's still not good for my health, first and foremost. Gotta lose that weight!


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

I didn't get everyone, and was afraid I'd lost all that I typed out, so here's round 2, heh. 



Creakyknees said:


> With your back issues, don't skimp on the floor work - learn some basic pilates / core exercises - in fact this month's (March 08) issue of Bicycling has a good article, page 47.
> 
> And learn to stretch, esp the hamstrings and glutes.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the tips, and I'll check out that magazine, too! Is it truly a helpful piece of literature, or is it filled with lots of advertising and sales pitch stuff? How much would a replacement stem run? As for the lycra, I dunno... I do NOT want to chafe anywhere, ever. I have some Under Armour that I wear above underwear and below gym shorts, so I think I'll be able to ride like that?  Thanks man!



ColoradoVeloDude said:


> I started my bike quest with a discussion from my two brothers-in-law and an a buddy of mine to do Ride The Rockies in 2005. I got a bike in December 2004. The first ride was 4 miles long and just about killed me. Was ready to do the ride in June 2005: 405 miles from Grand Junction to Breckenridge and a bunch of serious hills in between.
> 
> Now I got out on a weekend morning for 30-50 miles as a "casual" ride. When I started I was 6'2" and 265lbs. Now hovering about 240lbs.
> 
> ...


HAHA, man, I don't know where to start. First, thank you for such a detailed/witty response with a ton of info and ideas - this kind of stuff (and what everyone else has posted) is what gets me excited about anything. Awesome. Wow man, you have some great accomplishments under your belt - a century for me sounds like something completely out of reach - I don't even know if I could do 4 miles like you did the first time you went out. Hopefully! 

As for the pedals (picking stuff out of your engrossing post) - if I'm falling over, am I screwed? Will my feet just stay in the pedals as I fall over and, hopefully, not break anything? I'm most worried about this scenario. 

I will check out every site and idea you posted - I'm a clear canvas, so pretty much anything said that makes some sense to me I will take very seriously. Thank you!!

Oh, one thing - if I order a bike, can I ask to have an item or 2 swapped out? Like fatter tires like you suggested, or clipless pedals? Or is it better to buy stuff myself and add it on with some help from a LBS?



Travis said:


> all great advice, I would recommend the cross bikes mentioned and have a bianchi axis that is pretty sweet. Without a biking background I would encourage you to buy it locally from a respected bike shop to get a good bike fit. Avoid unnecessary aches and pains by going with professional bike fitting ... you should hear a frame size in the range of 52/53 to 55/56 cms
> 
> Get out there and start riding, cheers


I looked at the Axis today - sex on wheels, man, seriously. I think it may be too rich for my blood, though, but we'll see if maybe I can find a used one. I figured I would be in that range for size, but I will for sure get fitted properly. 



atpjunkie said:


> get on that bike and don't listen to these naysayers
> 
> get a decent steel bike like the Volpe. When you start dropping some lbs and get more into cycling come over to the merckx board and join the "I want an MXL Club"


Ha, I don't know what the MXL is, but I have a feeling it's light and expensive and a handsome lad indeed.  

So far it's the Axis, Volpe, Z100, Cannondale (the one in the thread), and maybe something else. OK, more stuff to research. Thanks!



AreaMan said:


> To "Dave Stohler": I am certain that in your private life, no one can stand you. G.f.y.


Ha, well put. :thumbsup: 


*THANK YOU ALL ONCE AGAIN!!*


----------



## Cruzer2424 (Feb 8, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Wow that's a lot to spend on accessories... my b-day is coming up, maybe my fiance can support this new found hobby, eh?  Anyway, that Felt looks great! Seems to have LOTS of higher end stuff (the carbon fiber) for a good price (MSRP under $700). Are they skimping/cutting corners somewhere? I have no idea how to take in all that bike info on their site... is it a bike I can grow into to ability wise? Thanks a ton for all that useful info man! And I will keep you guys posted for sure!


haha. 

$75 - shoes
$60 - helmet
$50 - pedals
$30 - floor pump
$50 - shorts
$30 - jersey
$10 - saddle bag
$10 - cages x2
$20 - frame pump
$5 - spare tube
$10 - bottles x2
-----------
$350 - total

i mean... okay. you can spend less.... but you gotta do some price shopping. the accessories add up. sometimes the pedals come with the bike. sometimes the shop will give you a deal. 

*these are ballpark estimates. *

that felt is great. all felts are great. cut corners? everything on that bike is pretty much as entry level as it gets. that being said, I do know lots of collegiate racers (read: broke) that have ridden sora (sora = shimano's entry level group... just like what's on the Z100) equipped bikes to some success. 

most entry level bikes are pretty competitively priced. i think in your case your biggest concerns should be 1. fit, 2. wheels/seatpost (for your weight), 3. getting one that looks cool (because you'll want to ride it more)


----------



## Cruzer2424 (Feb 8, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Oh, one thing - if I order a bike, can I ask to have an item or 2 swapped out? Like fatter tires like you suggested, or clipless pedals? Or is it better to buy stuff myself and add it on with some help from a LBS?


Of course. Just ask. Most shops will buy things back. Prices won't be totally fair... mostly because they're taking advantage of convenience. It's a business. I don't blame them. But what do you plan to do with a spare set of 23c tires anyway? For example, if you want fatter tires, they might only give you $5-$10 per tire back even though you're going to spend $30 per tire on the new ones. But like I said... just ask. They might do it for free.

Most of the time, for fit issues, in my experience, given you bought the bike there, the adjustments will be completely free. They almost always have a bin of stems just for that purpose.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Cruzer2424 said:


> haha.
> 
> $75 - shoes
> $60 - helmet
> ...


Wow, that stuff definitely adds up pretty fast. You gotta pay to play though, right? 

So is entry level for a complete newbie something I will want to replace within a year? 2 years? I'm coming from no bike to a $600-700 bike, so I hope I won't have to replace it, or all of its components, too soon. 

Thanks again!


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Cruzer2424 said:


> Of course. Just ask. Most shops will buy things back. Prices won't be totally fair... mostly because they're taking advantage of convince. It's a business. I don't blame them. But what do you plan to do with a spare set of 23c tires anyway? For example, if you want fatter tires, they might only give you $5-$10 per tire back even though you're going to spend $30 per tire on the new ones. But like I said... just ask. They might do it for free.
> 
> Most of the time, for fit issues, in my experience, given you bought the bike there, the adjustments will be completely free. They almost always have a bin of stems just for that purpose.


Ah-ha, I see... business is business, true. I just don't want to get ripped off (I do tons of research before purchasing anything, but for some reason ALL of this bike info is a bit intimidating).

Now to find a great bike place. Anyone know of one in the South Bay (around Mountain View/Palo Alto/San Jose in CA?)


----------



## Cruzer2424 (Feb 8, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Ah-ha, I see... business is business, true. I just don't want to get ripped off (I do tons of research before purchasing anything, but for some reason ALL of this bike info is a bit intimidating).
> 
> Now to find a great bike place. Anyone know of one in the South Bay (around Mountain View/Palo Alto/San Jose in CA?)


Try asking in the NorCal Regional Forum. 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62


----------



## 93561rider (Dec 6, 2007)

Moscow
It seems like you're new to cycling. People can recommend stuff all day long but at the end of the day you have to ride the bike. So, buy a good used bike as a starting point. The nice thing about a good quality used bike is it's worth the same a year later. After you ride for a while you'll know what it is you like.

Personally I would go for a good steel bike, but an aluminum bike will do. I would stay away from a used carbon bike. Yes they may ride better than aluminum but you could get burned going used a little easier.

Also remember that it's not how much bling you ride, but that you ride. A garage sale bike can give you the same workout as some supper light carbon bike. 

So, welcome to riding a bike and have a great time.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Thanks yet again, Cruzer!



93561rider said:


> Moscow
> It seems like you're new to cycling. People can recommend stuff all day long but at the end of the day you have to ride the bike. So, buy a good used bike as a starting point. The nice thing about a good quality used bike is it's worth the same a year later. After you ride for a while you'll know what it is you like.
> 
> Personally I would go for a good steel bike, but an aluminum bike will do. I would stay away from a used carbon bike. Yes they may ride better than aluminum but you could get burned going used a little easier.
> ...


rider, I hear what you're saying, but I don't know what a good used bike is - how to judge a good one, how much to pay for what, whether to buy a "modified" bike or not, etc. Totally clueless.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Any ideas about these used bikes?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/571809686.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/569859392.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/564443212.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/572066836.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/569549330.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/571769904.html (57cm, may be too big)

Thanks all.

EDIT: Maybe these, too?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/569263719.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/568396415.html
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/569072502.html


----------



## 93561rider (Dec 6, 2007)

Moscow

As much as I like older steel bikes, I would probably stay away from old bikes. Get something that new components fit on. The Trek 1000 and the Trek cross bike look ok. Go check them out and see if they fit. For that kind of money you can't really go wrong.

Look for a stock bike that hasn't been ridden much. I would stay away from classics and from bikes that have a bunch of mods. There is a reason the stock parts aren't on the bike anymore, and it may not be a good reason.

Have fun with your new bike


----------



## Alx (Mar 22, 2007)

If I had to choose it would be between these 2

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/564443212.html BIANCHI
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/569859392.html TREK 1000

I have owned a trek 1000 in that same model (02) and I'm right around the same weight/height as you are (6' 220) and that bike was very strong. Its not a cyclo cross frame strictly road but its a good bike. From what you describe you'd be better suited to the bianchi since you want to take it off road anyways.


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Hi All, I'm about 6'0" on a good day, and about 230lbs, 30-31" inseam. I've got a wedding to attend (my own, ha) in October and I'd like to drop a bit of weight and get in better shape. Going to the gym is pretty nice, but I want something else to supplement my workouts. So, I thought, why not a road bike?
> 
> My budget is probably around $800, maybe a bit less. I do not plan on doing any sort of competitive riding, or doing too many hills (at least to start). Also, it would be nice if a helmet and "riding gear" could fit in that budget, as well. I am in decent shape, but I do get winded pretty fast in, say, a game of basketball. I can run a mile at a somewhat slow pace, and I think my lungs give out before my legs. I'd like to buy a quality bike because I'm afraid of breaking something "cheap" under my weight. Oh, I also have sort of a bad lower back, so maybe some advice for the type of geometry I would need is in order.
> 
> ...


----------



## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*Moscow*

to answer your multiple response

no MXLs are not light they are the bikes that guys used to race the classics back in the 90s

they are the frame that big guys love. they are lugged, they are steel and they make guys over 190 lbs smile when they stomp on the pedals

if a bike could be a magic carpet, the MXL is the one for us bigger/heavier folks


----------



## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

Moscow, someone you know is bound to ride bikes. Find them, talk to them a lot and ask them to come with you to look at bikes and explain everything. Guys love talking about their stuff (not code) and most cyclists I know would be more than happy to help introduce a new rider to the sport. 

As an alternate option, you could get a good fixed gear/ss for $600 pretty easily. That leaves some left over for the rest of the schwag.

Atp is right about the MXL. It's an object of cult worship and completely deserving of it's elevated position.


----------



## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

innergel said:


> Moscow, someone you know is bound to ride bikes. Find them, talk to them a lot and ask them to come with you to look at bikes and explain everything. Guys love talking about their stuff (not code) and most cyclists I know would be more than happy to help introduce a new rider to the sport.
> 
> As an alternate option, you could get a good fixed gear/ss for $600 pretty easily. That leaves some left over for the rest of the schwag.
> 
> Atp is right about the MXL. It's an object of cult worship and completely deserving of it's elevated position.




a n00b on a fixed gear? I don't think that's a good idea... I don't even think SS is a good idea if he's a clyde getting winded pretty fast


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

*Clipless Pedals*

Moscow:

Clipless pedals are not without their pit falls. All your previous cycling life you learned to push down on a pedal, then down with the other. And, if you got into trouble, you lifted your foot up and off the pedal.

Clipless pedals and cycling shoes don't let you exit the pedals like this. The whole idea is to attach your foot the the bike so you can pull up with one leg while pushing down with the other. As you get more used to it, you begin to use the full turn of each pedal revolution, weighting and unweighting at different points in the revolution.

What usually happens is that you panic when trying to come to stop, then you lift your foot straight up and notice your are locked in. They you panic some more, and then you fall over.

With clipless pedals you have to learn the kick your heel away from the bike to disengage. SPD cleats are a good place to start since they are simple and the pedals are double sided so you don't have to work out the side you need to clip into . 

If you do any kind of regular bike riding, you'll want the clipless pedals. It'll help to tone all the muscles in your legs, rather than just to the ones used to mash the pedal down. Also helps with the fatigue. And, when you get your pedals put on a the LBS, have them put the bike on a trainer so you can practice clipping in and out in a no-penalty environment. Then, when riding, practice clipping in and out while yout are moving down the road until it becomes second nature. 

MTB shoes will cost you about $60. Pedals will run about $50. 

The thing with bicycling is that he initial cost is high, but once you are set up, you'll be in maintenance mode with new tires and tubes (probably can get away with about $100 /year if you do it carefully). Add more ofr sunscreen and beers at the end (the ultimate recovery beverage!)


----------



## Frreed (Aug 17, 2006)

Moscow,

You and I are about the same size. Look at Cannondales. They are good stiff frames that will easily handle your stature. They also are responsive, well equipped and just plain fun to ride.

As for that goomba who made the comment early in the thread. May you find him someday on a long downhill.

Welcome to "Team Pach" (as in pachyderm) _Gravity is our Friend_


----------



## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

Wheels are the biggest concern.....as long as you stay away from the ultra light weight stuff you should do fine.... the owner of my LBS is a big guy (not fat) at 250. He rides a Colnago C50..the main thing is having someone build you a set of wheels for your weight and road conditions.....If you want a good strong frame there are plenty out there.. I'm have experience with a Colnago Master X-Light.. strong and solid, rides great..I'm sure there are plenty of other choices....


----------



## Muaythaibike (Oct 26, 2007)

Dave Stohler,

What are you some kind of ass. The guy asked for help and tell him to lose weight first. Watch you mouth please...


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Thank you all once again! I read everything you all wrote twice 

What do you think of this one?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/566197560.html

Seems like a pretty good deal, no?

Frreed - which Cannondale do you recommend, in particular? Pachyderms unite? 

ColoradoVeloDude - sounds a bit daunting. So you kick out backwards out of the clip? Or to the side? Looks like it's the way to go. Can you recommend a trainer? Thanks again. 

Thanks all!!


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Thank you all once again! I read everything you all wrote twice
> 
> What do you think of this one?
> 
> ...




Moscow:

You kick your heels to the outside to disengage from the pedal.

As for a trainer, why? You want to get a road bike because you want to be out on the ROAD, OUTSIDE! Plus (I'll probably get flamed for this) the trainer doesn't really give you the feel of being out there and doing it. If you are going to go the trainer route, save your money, go join a gym, and do spin class. 

Are you in the Bay Area? I once did a ride from Paterson to the top of Mt. Hamilton. 44 miles all up hill. I grew up in San Jose (now I am living in Colorado Springs) but every time I got out there I look at that hill and knew I cranked my way to the top. It doesn't look the same anymore, more like a challenge overcome. 

That for me is the essence of road biking: challenges to overcome and the journey is the destination. Cycling also has a Zen quality to it for me -- you don't "get" it the first bunch of times out (it's still work). But, later, it'll come to you -- the work you are doing to drive the bike will separate from the mind stuff -then you'll be hooked.

You'll start out doing this for exercise, to get into shape. If you keep up with it (which is why you need a goal to work for - to keep you motivated and keep you riding), then you'll be off your bike for a while and your body will be begging you to get out there and move. Your mind will whine when you are looking out the window at a nice day that it is not outside with the wind at your face. Eventually, getting into shape will become a secondary goal, but will take place along with the fulfillment of the primary goal: getting outside and moving!

As for the bike, go to a LBS and buy up a new one. Get it fit right to you. You know you're going to be OK from the start. Although a cheaper route into the sport, I wouldn't be a newbie and buying a bike without some riding knowledge. Get into it properly with the proper tour guides and mentors to identify the pitfalls along the way.


----------



## 93561rider (Dec 6, 2007)

Moscow said:


> sounds a bit daunting. So you kick out backwards out of the clip? Or to the side?


Moscow
It may seem a bit daunting before you try it, but it really is very easy. After a day or so you won't believe you ever road without them.

And yes, you twist to the side. It's actually a very natural move.

So, go test ride a few bikes and post a pic of your new bike.:thumbsup:


----------



## Frreed (Aug 17, 2006)

Moscow,

I have a CAAD 8 R700. It is 2006 model and is great. The good news is that the CAAD frames are all the same regardless of price point. If you can find a CAAD 8 or 9, without regard to components you will have a good ride.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

Frreed said:


> Moscow,
> 
> I have a CAAD 8 R700. It is 2006 model and is great. The good news is that the CAAD frames are all the same regardless of price point. If you can find a CAAD 8 or 9, without regard to components you will have a good ride.


Thanks, Frreed. I'll put that on the consideration list.


----------



## Moscow (Nov 3, 2006)

ColoradoVeloDude said:


> Moscow:
> 
> You kick your heels to the outside to disengage from the pedal.
> 
> ...


Thanks, CVD! Hmm, so LBS is the way to go then, eh? What if I get fitted at an LBS and take that knowledge to the used market? Do bike measurements transfer over from bike to bike, or will a 57cm on one bike not be the same on another? 

As for the Zen feeling, that's actually what I want to achieve in the long run. Something to get away from everything else.. the gym doesn't really do that for me (I get more amped up than Zen there).


----------



## sokudo (Dec 22, 2007)

Moscow said:


> Thanks, CVD! Hmm, so LBS is the way to go then, eh? What if I get fitted at an LBS and take that knowledge to the used market? Do bike measurements transfer over from bike to bike, or will a 57cm on one bike not be the same on another?
> (I get more amped up than Zen there).


1. Yes. Calmar bikes in Santa Clara or Wheel Away in Campbell are reliable and understand what they are doing. But even with the best LBS and internet forum help you have to do your research and gain an understanding first, or blindly put your trust in the LBS.
2. You will fail unless you know what is that knowledge and how to apply it. You will have to understand frame geometry including top tube size, seat tube angle and head tube size and angle and what is their import, what are seat setback, drop, stem size and angle, number od spacers and limits on that number, trail and, finally, how the pieces fit together and how a bike fit is done. All that is not hard to figure out, but it still has to be done by you or a qualified person, in order to get a bike that fits.
3. Bike measurements do transfer between bikes. However, 57cm on one bike is very much not the same as 57cm on another. E.g., 57cm you are talking about, is it top tube size or seat tube size? If TT, is it effective (aka virtual) or real? In case of real, is is standard, semi-compact or compact frame? For seat tube size, is it measured center to center or center to top? Are angles comparable? Is head tube of sufficient size? Will the fork allow or handle enough spacers?


----------



## sokudo (Dec 22, 2007)

One more thing. If you want to ride in the Bay Area, look for a triple or compact (50-34) with the rear cassette going to 27, at the very least.


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Moscow said:


> Thanks, CVD! Hmm, so LBS is the way to go then, eh? What if I get fitted at an LBS and take that knowledge to the used market? Do bike measurements transfer over from bike to bike, or will a 57cm on one bike not be the same on another?
> 
> As for the Zen feeling, that's actually what I want to achieve in the long run. Something to get away from everything else.. the gym doesn't really do that for me (I get more amped up than Zen there).



To start, you'll need a tour guide. Someone to show you what is what. If you have a buddy that is into cycling, then you can use their knowledge to help you along the way. But, I think the LBS is the way to go. That way when you get some sort of weird knee, back, elbow, or elbow pain, then can help you through the adjustments to get it correct. Also, derailleurs can be tricky things to deal with and I swear that LBS people go to Black Magic School to learn how to adjust those things right. When I started, the WHOLE BIKE was all voodoo and magic and the myriad of adjusters and screws and such were overwhelming -- even while changing a flat it seemed like I was breaking some sort of guild laws and was practicing blasphemy outside the brotherhood. 

Starting at the LBS is s good thing I think, especially when you are just starting out. First, you'll need to try a lot of bikes to make certain you get "the" one that fits and acts well for you. Second, you'll need a good wrench to adjust stuff when it gets loose after the first few hundred miles (cables stretch, wheels need to be trued, derailleur adjusted, makingn your contribution to help the economy move along).

And, once you get your bike, find two or three rides to do this summer to work towards. For your first one go for 50 miles or do a metric century (100 KM or 62 miles). Then, go for the century (100 miles), then do something like crank up Mt. Hamilton, Mt. Diablo, or Mt. Tamalpias (spelling). Or, ride from Saratoga to Santa Cruz over Hwy 9. Come out to Colorado and do Ride The Rockies (you have until 22-Feb-2008 to get your application in -- www.ridetherockies.com) The Modesto North Rotary organizes the ride up Mt. Hamilton from Paterson - south of Tracy on I-5 (www.modestonorthrotary.org/rideinfo.htm )

Bottom line: give into your ignorance and go to the LBS and start there. In a year or so you'll know tons more about cycling and then can make informed decisions on your next (and really expensive) bike -- like to buy it on line or through the LBS you have come to know.


----------



## pyrtwist (Feb 5, 2008)

I dropped 30 lbs from August through mid-September. I rode all the time averaging 150 miles a week, suspended the consumption of alcohol, bread, rice, potatoes and lived on oatmeal, apples and big salads.

Best time to buy a bike is now as stores want to unload the 07 inventory. I generally support the LBS since it's a biatch to get a bike repaired online.


----------



## Bocephus Jones II (Oct 7, 2004)

Moscow said:


> What if I get fitted at an LBS and take that knowledge to the used market? .


If everyone did this the LBS would then go out of biz and you'd be stuck with nobody to answer your questions that will inevitably arise. Do you go to shoe stores and then buy online? Stocking a store with inventory and paying people to work there who actually know something costs money. At least pay them for the fitting if you aren't gonna buy anything from them. Personally I think it's nuts for a beginner to buy online or used. You just don't know what to look for yet.


----------



## vsimmons (Sep 21, 2007)

I'd consider running to your local store and finding a connection with a manager, or someone you like and trust. You will need them. I hate to pay retail ,as anyone does, and sort of wrote off a certain store because they would never give me deal. However, after going to them for various necessities, I got to know a manager there, who now gives me deals on everything I buy. Also, he is very helpful in that if I need an adjustment, or any kind of help, he is there for me. 

So what's the point

I may pay a tad more up front, but it is sure nice to be able to just pop in and get problems handled


----------



## walleyeangler (Nov 4, 2005)

*Don't be discouraged!*

You aren't that out of line in your weight and height. I started riding three years ago with a 50 inch waist. I probably was about 400 pounds. Now I am like youm, 230 and 6'1" and 20 inch inseam. That's nearly 20,000 miles later.

Running sucks for people our size - too many injuries.

Trek makes the 1.2 entry level bike. I have the Pilot 1.2 that I use for my commuter. The new one is different, Tiagra shifters and no chance for a rack and bags, more like last year's Pilot. 1.0. But, it is in your price range. I road the 1.0 last year with Tiagra. They worked fine and the ride was good. 

Aluminum will hold you. Hell, I ride a Giant TCRc1 carbon racing bike with no problems. My third bike is a LeMond full Titanium and I love it. Again, no problems with my size. 

As far as losing weight, get on a food plan and ride at least four to five times a week at least 1 to 2 hours every time. Get in a club. You'll find people who ride your speed and its easier to do it with friends than alone all the time. I did 7000 miles in 2006 and much of it was alone...I was hearing messages from son of Sam before I was done. Last years 8750 were done much with others and that was better. 

Good luck. I'm getting married too. She had 4000 miles last year, her first on a road bike. She led all the women in the club. Oh by the way, we are both 56 and cancer survivors. If we can do it, so can you. :thumbsup:


----------



## skiierx (Feb 20, 2008)

Moscow,

I thought this thread was appropriate for my first reply. I am the exact size as you are other then being 6'1. I have been in and out of cycling (mostly mtn biking) but over the last 3 years have had major lower back issues. I got back to riding and had to upgrade the mtn bike and now find myself wanting a new road bike (get away from race style frame). As for your first bike your budget will get you in and be fine for you. Most bikes in the range you are looking come with pedals (some even with the spd's). I would head right down to your LBS (without hesitation) during the day, that way you have better luck finding someone who is full time, maybe the owner/manager, and explain exactly what you are looking to do. Wear gym attire as most shops will hold your license and let you test ride a bike once you get the size/selection narrowed down. Don't be afraid to set aside 2-3 hours (maybe even schedule time with the shop). When you work with them on the off hours (uncrowded) they will be able to spend more time with you and help educate you in regard to what you are looking at as well as what you need. Don't be afraid to ask what you might think are foolish questions, the only thing foolish is not asking them! What my lbs does the day you buy a bike they give you like 25% off accessories, so you can grab the helmet, gloves, shorts and shoes that day if you choose to go that route. You could also check other retailers (local or online). This past weekend with all the president day sales I picked my wife up a new helmet for $15.00 (was $64 originally), gloves for $10 and they had a ton of entry level shoes for like $30-50. I did not get shoes for her as she is going to start riding this year and I need her to get comfortable on the bike before taking that step. Also do not hesitate to negotiate with the lbs, get to know your prices out there when you decide on what bike you want and make them an offer. My new mtn bike last year was not a leftover yet I got a better price then what they were selling leftovers for. Negotiate even if the bike is on sale, don't be afraid to yank out the check book and say hey my transaction will not cost you the 2.3=+/-% credit card fee.

The other great thing (as some have said) about doing business with the lbs is that you normally get a free tune up 30-60 after purchase and they will help adjust anything in that time frame as well.

Personally I would stick with a stock bike (after initial purchased setup, meaning if changes were made to help fit). That way you will not have any additional expenses right away.

Last night I actually went to my LBS to look for a new road bike. This will not be my primary bike (mtn is still my passion but the wife wants to ride with me this year). I spent an hour with two very knowledgeable guys (picked their brains), sat on a few bikes (didn't dress properly, went from work) to get the idea of what I was looking at and walked out very happy and less confused as to today's designs. Next step is to dress properly and go test a couple on the trainer to get fit comfort feelings and if the weather is good take a couple for a spin. Once I decide on which bike I am leaning towards then will ask to if a demo is available and take for a 10-15 mile ride to test if it is really the bike for me. After that I am thinking of having them fit it for a small fee. The reason for this for me is that with my back problems I want to make sure I have the proper setup and it will save me from spending time on my back in bed.

BTW, you have started out the right way, do your research, learn as much as you can, then pull the trigger and get out riding. In no time you will be out there enjoying yourself and getting into shape. You will be up to 10 miles in no time at all, just take it easy. One thing you should know about is bike butt though! The first ride will be no issue with the seat but you will feel sore for a couple days afterwards. The second ride and sometimes the third are difficult but stay with it. After the third ride (assuming all are done within a week) you will be fine for the season unless of course you take a couple weeks off but the pain is never the same as the first time! One way of helping this is by riding a spin bike at the gym for say 20 minutes, then a day or 2 later do it again. From there you should be ok.

Good luck, below are my thoughts as to what you need after buying the bike. You will need the other stuff later but since you will not be taking any long rides you will not need them for a little while.

My thoughts as to what you need after choosing the bike are ;
helmet
shorts
gloves


----------



## vsimmons (Sep 21, 2007)

The above post gives some good advice. This was my approach: As a mountain biker, I was ready to get my first roadbike. I did a bunch of research online. I decided what kind of bike I thought I wanted. I found out (online) what a reasonable price would be. I ground my LBS to try to get a decent deal on the bike I decided on (not TOO much, I need them to like me for posterity) I just bought the bike. Why didn't I even bother to test ride it? There is no way the bike is going to feel good. It's going to hurt at first, no matter what it is. I trusted the LBS to size the bike properly, and bought all the stuff. Oh! Don't go cheap on shorts and shoes. VERY important gear. After several months, the bike is very comfortable and I just love it (Orbea Opal.)


----------



## armadillo (Nov 23, 2005)

I just wanted to pipe in here and say how cool it is that everyone is providing such great advice to a new rider. I think this is a good indication that there are a lot of great people in the cycling community. Good job guys.

Moscow good luck in your pursuits. If you follow the advice your getting here I'm sure you'll be successful and happy with your new adventure.


----------



## sky'sthelimit (Feb 15, 2008)

Moscow said:


> Thank you, vsimmons. I used to powerlift until my back problems (and some loose shoulders helped, as well) stopped me, and I was in better shape then. I appreciate your encouraging words  I will continue to pursue thing the way I want, and won't stop to listen to negativity - life's too short for that.


You allready have the right attitude!
Cycling can be a life changing experience as well as that physical change you are looking for.
Have fun and enjoy the open roads!


----------



## slitespd (Nov 2, 2004)

Dave_Stohler said:


> You should lose the weight first, THEN buy a bike. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.



Nice!!!! Clogging the roads? Go around them for crying out loud!! Maybe they like to mash gears rather than spin! I didn't know there was a prerequisite for HOW you actually ride your bike.


----------



## pyrtwist (Feb 5, 2008)

Skiierx makes a very good point. The LBS usually offers a free 100 mile tune up. This is very important for new bikers. My experience with new bikes is one of cable stretch. More often than not as you ride a new bike the shifter cables stretch out and shifting becomes less precise and sloopy. A simple fix IF you know what to do. My latest purchase had massive cable stretch on the brakes and pad wear. I had to Flintstone it before taking it in. Other than that the initial 100 miles or few months is a shake down cruise. Bolts can get loose ect. These services cannot be had online.


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

pyrtwist said:


> Skiierx makes a very good point. The LBS usually offers a free 100 mile tune up. This is very important for new bikers. My experience with new bikes is one of cable stretch. More often than not as you ride a new bike the shifter cables stretch out and shifting becomes less precise and sloopy. A simple fix IF you know what to do. My latest purchase had massive cable stretch on the brakes and pad wear. I had to Flintstone it before taking it in. Other than that the initial 100 miles or few months is a shake down cruise. Bolts can get loose ect. These services cannot be had online.



Add to this the black art of wheel truing. The new wheels with a new bike may need a "tweak" after a hundred miles or so to get them back true. Although I understand the principals of adjusting wheels, from my standpoint, truing wheels is a black art and a skill protected by guild members with secret handshakes and chants. Magic gnomes, fairies, and leprechauns are summoned to crawl into the space between the tube and the wheel rim to move the small nipples in incredibly small increments to bring the wheel exactly true, using the Sun, Moon, and North Star as adjustment references (sorry guys, I got a little carried away there with the creative writing).

Bottom line is that new wheels are going to fall out of true, and this is a skill/art type of activity to bring a wheel back in line -- and requires some special tools along with the knowledge to do it.


----------



## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

*Another Data Point and +1 for the LBS*

Moscow:

I saw someone's post on frame geometry and another consideration hit me: there are many bikes out there that are made for very specialized things: racing, time trials, cruising, touring, mountain biking, commuting, hybrid, cyclocross. 

Being an old guy that is working not to be fat anymore, I didn't want a bike that put me in a aggressive, dropped, riding stance. I don't have aspirations to do road racing, but may try a triathlon some day. That handle bar lower than the seat stance (racing) would kill my passion for cycling and probably do strange an unnatural things to my back. 

Anyway, you 're going to want a bike that is comfortable for the long miles. If it isn't, you won't be riding it and will have a many hundred dollar gee-gaw in your garage. I'd shy away from Craig's list and ebay until you really know what you want in a bike and really know what you are doing in your selection. A good LBS will be able to take you through the options so you end up with a bike that has the proper geometry for the kind of riding you will be doing and also lets you sit on it comfortably. You'll "know" almost immediately the bike that is "the one" when trying them out. 

When you try the bikes out, like I have said before, the most important things to me are 1) carbon fiber forks to dampen the road vibration and 2) a triple chain ring in the front so you have a large range & selection of gears to crank up the hills.


----------



## willtsmith_nwi (Jul 25, 2006)

Dave_Stohler said:


> You should lose the weight first, THEN buy a bike. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.


Good IDEA!! Because we all know that sitting around the house waiting for the weight to come off is super effective. 

Yes, a cyclocross bike with slick tires is probably a good call. They use MTB hubs and sturdier components.


----------



## medicalman (Aug 7, 2008)

Dave you sound like one of those arrogant jerks that I love to fly by. Why don't you at least commend the guy for making the decision to lose weight in the first place. Whether it be by bike (which is better for his joints) , running etc etc etc. 

Jesus people like you piss me off


----------



## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

why did this thread reappear after 8 months?
medicalman i don't think dave is still reading this thread. BUT I wonder how moscow went on the weight thing?


----------



## medicalman (Aug 7, 2008)

i was just surfing a bit. I am in the hospital with my sister. I too am wondering how he is doing. I have several people out where I live that have dropped a ton of wieght by getting on the bike. Heck I dropped 56 lbs myself. I love this sport


----------



## MTT (Oct 14, 2005)

You might want to consider a steel frame and some bullet-proof touring tires like the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. The steel frame will give you a smoother ride than Aluminum and the tires will hold up longer and flat less. My friend who is well over 200 loves the Salsa http://www.salsacycles.com/laCruzComp08.html He uses it to commute and he does a few races in the fall on it. Good luck and may the Swartz be wit ya! :thumbsup:


----------



## flan48 (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi Moscow,
How about a flat bar road bike such as the Trek 7.3FX?
Looks liike you can get one for $650 or less. So add in a helmet, gloves, etc and you can have a great bike within budget.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fx/73fx/

Or, the Giant FCR 3. This is also a flat bar road bike that comes with bar ends for additional hand position. This is in the $600 range.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/road/2268/32201/

Good luck, and most of all, enjoy!
Barry


----------



## bung (Jul 7, 2004)

I think it's a bit late to be recommending bikes. His wedding is this month according to the OP.


----------



## lalahsghost (Aug 27, 2007)

Ride whatever this guy is riding... :23:

***EDIT*** OOPS, sorry, thats a mountain bike....


----------



## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

medicalman said:


> i was just surfing a bit. I am in the hospital with my sister. I too am wondering how he is doing. I have several people out where I live that have dropped a ton of wieght by getting on the bike. Heck I dropped 56 lbs myself. I love this sport


He probably got hit by a car one day, while mashing along in top gear at 3 mph.....

BTW, I lost 90 lbs once, but I lost most of it *before* I went out and spent money on a bike. First, you have to get your food intake down, then you have to start conditioning yourself. Buying a new roadbike to lose weight is as stupid as those guys who buy those expensive Bowflex machines on TV trying to get rid of a pot-belly. That ain't what it's about!

My concern was that, if he doesn't actually have a REAL INTEREST in cycling, a gym membership would be more cost-effective-you can exercise after dark, when it's cold and rainy, and actually get an idea of what is best for you without having to plunk down a lot of money that, frankly, only works the legs.


----------



## Tschai (Jun 19, 2003)

Dave_Stohler said:


> Buying a new roadbike to lose weight is as stupid as those guys who buy those expensive Bowflex machines on TV trying to get rid of a pot-belly. That ain't what it's about!


This is absolutely re-g-ddamn-diculous. Are you kidding? Buying a road bike to lose weight may be the best thing ever. I can't tell you how many success stories there are out there. Moreover, despite the fact that muscle dudes keep insisting lifting and building muscle increases weight loss efficiency, the primary exercise for weight loss remains and shall always be long and slow aerobic exercise. Running is good, but can be brutal. If you have the time to ride longish hours, bike riding ANY BIKE is the bomb. Gyms suck .


----------



## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

lalahsghost said:


> Ride whatever this guy is riding... :23:
> 
> ***EDIT*** OOPS, sorry, thats a mountain bike....


Wait, is he missing one side of the fork?


----------



## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

Dave_Stohler said:


> He probably got hit by a car one day, while mashing along in top gear at 3 mph.....
> 
> BTW, I lost 90 lbs once, but I lost most of it *before* I went out and spent money on a bike. First, you have to get your food intake down, then you have to start conditioning yourself. Buying a new roadbike to lose weight is as stupid as those guys who buy those expensive Bowflex machines on TV trying to get rid of a pot-belly. That ain't what it's about!
> 
> My concern was that, if he doesn't actually have a REAL INTEREST in cycling, a gym membership would be more cost-effective-you can exercise after dark, when it's cold and rainy, and actually get an idea of what is best for you without having to plunk down a lot of money that, frankly, only works the legs.


I understand your concern, but you still sound like a bit ***. I was 230 when I bought my Madone. I have lost a little weight and am enjoying every moment of riding it. Not all heavy guys ride slowly or are only concerned about weight loss so don't judge.

Riding a bike is a great way to lose weight and beats sitting in a gym staring at a wall. If you were really concerned about the cost you would suggest walking/running because all that takes is a pair of sneakers and a little bit of time.


----------



## bolandjd (Sep 12, 2008)

Yes. That's a Lefty fork. I think only Cannondale specs them as OE. 

Where's the Moscow guy? I wanna know how it all went with the weight loss and wedding and stuff.


----------



## QQUIKM3 (Apr 20, 2008)

*No doubt. . .*



Area Man said:


> To "Dave Stohler": I am certain that in your private life, no one can stand you. G.f.y.


He sounds like a tool.


----------



## jericbarg (Jul 7, 2012)

Cool Bike, lefty huh?


----------



## Cannondan (Jul 2, 2012)

Before you buy at either a LBS or online check out your local Craigslist. You can get some amazing deals and potentially get a $1500 bike at your $800 budget.


----------



## 68gtosca (Aug 7, 2011)

Gentlemen:

He not that heavy. I ride weekly with a group with four men between 260 and 300 pounds, The group usually rides between 30 to 50 miles at about a 15 mph and these guys are 50 plus.. These guys make riding a priority. From my experience the heavy guy only really hurt on the hils. Hills are where the extra weight plays the biggest role role. The entire group rode a century last last fall. 

The one componment that takes the biggest beating is the wheel set. Most of the guys go wth a good set of wheel and several go with 32 spoke wheels.

Just my 2 cents


----------



## RobbMaxx (Jun 12, 2012)

68gtosca said:


> Gentlemen:
> 
> He not that heavy. I ride weekly with a group with four men between 260 and 300 pounds, The group usually rides between 30 to 50 miles at about a 15 mph and these guys are 50 plus.. These guys make riding a priority. From my experience the heavy guy only really hurt on the hils. Hills are where the extra weight plays the biggest role role. The entire group rode a century last last fall.
> 
> ...


Gentlemen, this is a 4 year old post and Moscow has disappeared... Easy on regurgitating a post and replying as if it were yesterday


----------



## Isidro (Jul 14, 2012)

*First Post, Enthusiast.*

I come on this site almost daily, with recurring problems requiring practical solutions. 

I just want to say thanks to everyone for the great information being posted here daily. It's really been a great resource to someone just starting out, shopping for the next bike, etc.

Isidro


----------



## Isidro (Jul 14, 2012)

I am pretty heavy, size and weight similar to Tim Tebow (6'3, 245lbs). 

I suggest a nice wide rim with 32-36 spokes. Disc Brakes (!) if possible to minimize bends in the rim and spoke breaking while riding. I recommend at least 700x35c tires with flat protection, Conti Top Contact or Schwalbe Marathon Plus/Supreme as you may encounter pinch flats.

In addition, learning the skill of truing a wheel. Buy a spoke wrench and start spinning until those wheels get nice and straight. 

Learning to do that will save you a lot of trips to the LBS, and money.

Wherever you go, go the long way whenever time permits. You'll feel better about the ride, yourself, etc.


----------



## desertgeezer (Aug 28, 2011)

Dave_Stohler said:


> You should lose the weight first, THEN buy a bike. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's tired of lard-butt poseurs clogging the roads mashing in high gear at 5 mph.


Get a life, azzhole.


----------



## howdoesseanroll (Mar 27, 2012)

Cruzer2424 said:


> @ 230 you're not THAT heavy. I mean at least not past an unreasonable weight for most bikes... and plus if you plan on losing it, you're not going to be that high for long.


this - if you ride regularly and make some adjustments to your diet you'll see that weight fly off. I did!


----------



## AythanNyah09 (Jul 14, 2012)

Realizing its a 4 year old post... but its still relevant in a lot of ways to more than a few people. Including myself. I too am I heavier guy and I want to get into road biking. And Im looking for suggestions with a healthy budget.


----------

