# Look 695 E Post



## Martyk22

For those who have built up or have had a 695 build up, can you tell me if the way the E-post sits into the frame in this photo seems right. Specifically, it's flush in the rear but there's a little ledge in front. Also does it matter what order the spacers and Elastomers are placed. Just seems odd to me that it doesn't sit flush with the frame all the way around. 

Thanks,

Marty


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## twigseattle

E posts should be flush.
The seat post is cut with a metal guide,and I have seen the soft metal of the guide sometimes succumb to the hacksaw blade and the cut wander a bit at the edge.
Also, if you do not mask the tube before the cut, when you get to the edge, you can have a "blow out" where a bit of the tube gets splintered out, same as if you cut anything.
To my eye, it looks like this was cut without masking it properly and therefore a little bit chipped out.
This probably has no imapct on performance or longevity or comfort, but it would drive me %*$*#^)$*# nuts and make me want to kill my LBS.


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## Martyk22

Rant to follow!!

I was told that was normal and that every E Post that they had done had come out like that. Furthermore, when I picked up the bike and asked them to show me how to adjust the saddle height, fore/aft and saddle angle, I was told "it's very complicated and I shouldn't touch it". WTF!!! Shouldn't I be able to make these adjustments on my own?!!! Between problems with the chainrings (see "Help" under Campy forum) and this, part of me feels like giving the bike back and stopping payment on my CC. I am so freekin frustrated!!!!


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## BTH

Looks like you'll be getting a new E post as they did indeed cut it wrong.


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## Martyk22

My understanding is that it's the frame that's cut not the Epost. So what's a guy to do?!!!


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## Chris Keller

Marty, I pm'd you. Your post and spacers look fine from my initial inspection of the pic (it's upside-down). 

Your LBS is wrong about adjusting the seat. You can adjust it just like adjusting a seat on any other bike. There is a bolt on the underside of th e seat clamp that you simple loosen, adjust your seat for fore/aft and tilt, then tight it to secure your adjustments. Just use a torque wrench so you don't tighten it too much or break something. 

Yes, the frame is cut and the E-post slides in with the very small, required spacer at the very top, then the elastomer, then any spacers you might need not to exceed the max recommended by Look. 

Chris


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## twigseattle

I apologize Matry I was looking at it upside down.
The epost is a unit, and it slides into the cut seat tube.
You should have your dealer contact Look USA to get a replacement ePost, that is all.


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## roger9

twigseattle said:


> I apologize Matry I was looking at it upside down.
> The epost is a unit, and it slides into the cut seat tube.
> You should have your dealer contact Look USA to get a replacement ePost, that is all.



Why would you ask for a new Epost??? If the Epost is not sitting square as shown in the photo it is only because the frame seat post was not cut propoerly, i.e. it was not properly square across the section.

If this was my bike I would put some tape around the seat post ensuring it is square, and simple file away the excessive material. You probably only need to file away a mm or 2 at most.

Simple solutions for simple problems.


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## Tumppi

@Marty

I'm sorry to say this, but you LBS has made a mistake and seatpost is cutted totally wrong. There is NO need for spacers when job has done correctly. Only elastomer needed.

Now they or you have to straighten the seatpost avout 2-3mm and then add more spacers, which is the best compromise but not the best solution. Best would be new frame and sell this frame to smaller guy....

Kind Regards

Tuomas


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## Martyk22

Tuomas,

It was cut this way to allow for later adjustment, either up or down, to accommodate different saddles or desires. My understanding is that shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't need to insert too many spacers. My bigger concern was whether or not it was cut properly. There seems to be some disagreement here on that point.


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## Martyk22

and yes, for some reason, the photo posted upside down.


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## Tumppi

Martyk22 said:


> Tuomas,
> 
> It was cut this way to allow for later adjustment, either up or down, to accommodate different saddles or desires. My understanding is that shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't need to insert too many spacers. My bigger concern was whether or not it was cut properly. There seems to be some disagreement here on that point.


OK, it's not problem to add some spacers but it would be much cleaner without them. 
Just try to file it straight.


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## twigseattle

The irregularity looks like it is on the EPost, not on the frame seat tube or a result of how the seat tube was cut.

It looks like the ePost itself has a small chip on the bottom.
This probably does not impact performance as the central bung is what holds the Epost secure, not how it rests on the edge of the elastomers.

But then you say that they say "every epost they had done came out like that" 
Are they cutting down the posts?

This is odd, this is how an Epost looks out of the frame
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...sAOi9d2oBA&page=1&ndsp=129&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0

Maybe they are saying all ePosts they have received from look have this imperfection?
I find that hard to believe.


Even Look, who make frame models that last 5-6 years still have minor tweaks that are made after Gen 1. The 595 for example had different elastomer system when first released, which was then tweaked. Headfit was added in 2008, etc. So sometimes itis painful to be a first adopter. Even shops need sometimes more experience with a frame (Especially a unique one like the 695) to build it up right

That said, you are buying one of the most expensive production road bike frames in the world, and I think the fit and finish should match the price tag. I would be beside myself. My wife wouldn't notice and wouldn't care when it was pointed out.

If you are buying said bike from your shop and they are too ignorant or lazy to show you how to move your seat position, that is a red flag as well. A cyclist should be able to move his seat, and a mechanic authorized by Look should be able to teach you how to do it in 2 minutes tops (more like 15 seconds).

I would also be wary of every other aspect of the build if this is their level of "care" . Did they remember to grease your headset? Did they properly insall the ferrules on your brake runs? Are your dereilleur runs right or crossed in the frame, I would want to check everything.


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## Ekku12

*E-Post moving a bit when placed in frame*

Does anyone have insight on how firmly or tightly should the E-post be sitting in the frame?
I had my 695 seat post cut at the LBS and everything seemed to go well. I even tested it out on a trainer in the store after the cut and it felt fine.
Once at home I noticed that the E-post moves just a teeny bit in the frame when I grasp and try to move the saddle back and forth horizontally with my hand. I'm not sure if this occurred already before the seat post cut (I did not try it).
For reference I tried the same on my old alu Bianchi and the saddle did not even budge.
This the reason why I am wondering whether the E-Post just behaves this way since it is not tightened with any screw to the seat post. And if it shouldn't, how can it be fixed? E.g. something to put in between the seat post frame and E-Post? 
Appreciate your insight on this.


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## Martyk22

Though I've had issues with the E-post, horizontal instability is not one of them. Mine does not budge at all. If you haven't already, using a torque wrench, make sure the bolt, in the front of the E-post is tightened to 5nm. Other than that, I can't see why you would get any movement in any direction. 

My problem has related to tightening the bolt that holds the saddle in place. As the slider is moved forward, it get's harder and harder to get a bit for the torque wrench in there, especially if you're trying to get a torque wrench in there that is capable of tightening to the recommended 22nm. (those wrenches have bigger heads). My LBS tried some ball head bits, but that ended up stripping the bolt at the high torque that is needed and I ended up having to replace the bolt. My LBS ended up just tightening it by hand as hard as he could, but a month later my saddle came loose on a ride. I've picked up some extra long hex bits that helped a bit but still not enough to get in there when the slider is pushed very forward. I've had to use a combination of forward slider and moving the saddle forward on the rails to get the position I want. There must be a solution but I and my LBS have not been able to figure it out.


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## Ppopp

twigseattle said:


> That said, you are buying one of the most expensive production road bike frames in the world, and I think the fit and finish should match the price tag. I would be beside myself.


Truer words were never spoken.

I don't own an e-post bike (585 for me), but it sure seems like something is wrong when your bike shop tells you that you shouldn't adjust your set.

Can you post some more pics at slightly different angles (and upright). This might help people familiar with the e-post give you a better diagnosis.

Finally, Justin from Look USA hangs around here a little. Maybe he can advise.


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## Ekku12

Thanks Marty, tightening the bolt to 5 Nm did the trick. Now the saddle sits firmly in the E-Post. I just did't realize first that you can only tighten the bolt when the E-Post is sitting in the frame.
I understand your problem the the forward slided saddle but unfortunately don't have a solution for it. Hopefully you find a good and lasting one.


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## bikerjohn64

Marty;

I too have a slight difference in the "outer" diameter/contour between the E-post and the ISP. 

My frame is not the 695 but the 586. I had a 695 while my 586 was in for a replacement and it too had discrepancy between the post and mast. 

I've even had two separate E-posts and they fit the same like yours. 

I don't know if this will help any but try and rearrange the wider black spacer so that it's put up against the thinner one so that the red elastomer is now against the cut ISP. 

"Edit"- I noticed after checking my bike that the spacers are larger in size (internally) and therefore should be fit on the elastomer like it is shown in Marty's photo. I did notice though that the spacers are slightly smaller (externally) in shape then the elastomer. I had to double-check since I don't have spacers on my setup(only the thin top spacer). 

The thinner spacer should stay on the E-post all the time; this spacer is actually needed since there is a radius underneath this and the elastomer won't sit perfectly flush without this. 

Anyhow; see if that elastomer-large spacer-small spacer(from bot-top) combo may help. 

I don't know if it would since these frames are hand made; there may be some discrepecy from one frame to another. Although at that price point you would think it should be much tighter tolerance than that.


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## Chris Keller

Wow Marty, 
Sorry to hear you are still having issues. It doesn't make sense to me though. Are you having to slide your seat all the way forward for proper postioning? If you have to move the saddle extremely forward, such as a time trial position, just turn your seatpost around. It will fit into the frame either way. If you need it that far forward normally, then that makes me think you have a frame that is too big or you have flexiblity issues. 

If the saddle bolt is properly tightened, your saddle should never move. Granted, getting to that bolt can be a little challenging but not as difficult as described here. Have you tried using a universal joint between your torque wrnch and the hex bit? That should work and easily enable you to get the correct torque on the seat bolt. 

I am loving my 695!!! I still have 2mm of spacers bwtween the crank and chainrings, but shifting is great and the ride is perfect... I am 5'11" and ride an XL frame with a 100-110 stem.


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## bikerjohn64

Chris Keller said:


> If the saddle bolt is properly tightened, your saddle should never move. Granted, getting to that bolt can be a little challenging but not as difficult as described here. Have you tried using a universal joint between your torque wrnch and the hex bit? That should work and easily enable you to get the correct torque on the seat bolt.


I think the problem Marty might be having is with the shaft of the hex socket being too short so that the socket body that attaches to the torque wrench hit the sides of the "channel" where the bolt travels back and forth allowing adjustment. 

It's no problem to get in there with a regular 6mm hex wrench but the 3/8" drive-type base on the 6mm socket is either too wide or too short(shaft). I haven't seen any extended style. 
The only thing I can think of is to grind down the socket's body or somehow extending the 6mm hex shaft?


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## bikerjohn64

Marty; 

Solution: if you have access to an angle grinder, you will be able to cut off the handle part(the short length) from a regular 6mm Allen wrench then insert that lengthier part into a 6mm socket! Voilà!


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## jasjas

If im wide of the mark...apologies.
But it looks to me as if the spacer is smaller in diameter to the frame isp, this is how look make the spacers (they r just plastic) well in the 2 595s i ve had, they ve been like this.
You could make a spacer from the remaining piece of ISP that the lbs sawed off and then carefully deburr the edge that meets the elastomer with some fine wet an dry.

Your Epost also seems to be deformed were it meets the small spacer beforet the Red elastomer.


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## Morgan01

go Google "Look bike resources and support" and manuals are downloadable for your reference.


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## Martyk22

This thread seems to have combined two posts, one old and one new. To clarify, the original post was from 2/11, shortly after I got the bike. the spacer question is a non-issue and there's no need to discuss it further. 
A week ago or so Ekku12 posted an issue he was having with the E-post that had nothing to do with my original post and I just answered him here.

*"I think the problem Marty might be having is with the shaft of the hex socket being too short so that the socket body that attaches to the torque wrench hit the sides of the "channel" where the bolt travels back and forth allowing adjustment. "*

This is exactly the issue I'm having! I have located some extra long hex bits, and though it's still a very tight fit it seems to work. Just seems odd that the seat post is designed to be moved forward but virtually impossible to tighten with a torque wrench in it's most forward position. 

Chris, the bike is great I've just been fine tuning the fore-aft position and yes, I'm fairly inflexible and I was between sizes initially and went with the larger one, but let's not go there, what's done is done and I'm enjoying the bike immensely.


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## Martyk22

Chris, didn't think or know you could turn the post around, that just might be the best answer, I'll have to give it a try. Just for kicks and giggles though, see if you can get a hex bit in there with a torque wrench capable of tightening to 22 nm, with the slider all the way to the + 1.5 position.


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## mex-i-can

Chris Keller said:


> Marty, I pm'd you. Your post and spacers look fine from my initial inspection of the pic (it's upside-down).
> 
> Your LBS is wrong about adjusting the seat. You can adjust it just like adjusting a seat on any other bike. There is a bolt on the underside of th e seat clamp that you simple loosen, adjust your seat for fore/aft and tilt, then tight it to secure your adjustments. Just use a torque wrench so you don't tighten it too much or break something.
> 
> Yes, the frame is cut and the E-post slides in with the very small, required spacer at the very top, then the elastomer, then any spacers you might need not to exceed the max recommended by Look.
> 
> Chris


@ Chris- Do you mean that the black (provided) spacers go on AFTER the elastomer? That would place the plastic/carbon spacer directly in contact with the frame (just below the shoulder of the elastomer). It seems that would reduce the dampening effect created by the elastomer. I'll do it if that is correct.


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