# GP 5000 vs Schwalbe Pro One TL comparison



## Emilio700

*Continental GP 5000 Review Comparison*









I've been running Schwalbe Pro one tubeless in 700x25c for two years now. I do about 10k miles a year, mostly road. Recently switched to the new GP 5000 tubeless 700x25c. My observations and experience so far, after one hilly road ride on the GP 5000's. I'm a skinny cat 2, pretty quick descender. 160lbs, 6-3". Bike 60cm Cervelo S3 disc, Light Bicycle 45mm carbon hooked bead wheelset, 21mm internal width. _Very _wide. Orange seal (standard).

The 700x25c Schwalbes measure 29.9mm wide on my wheels. 
I usually run them around 85psi front, 90psi rear for fast club rides. 5psi lower on solo rides. I usually got around 1500 miles on rear, 2500-3000 on the front. When I wasn't being lazy, I'd rotate the tires front to back to extend the life a bit. 

The Schwalbe's had average puncture resistance. Quite often little holes would self seal without me knowing it. I tossed out probably 3-4 tire prematurely from big cuts. Nothing unique to the Schwalbe as those cuts would have ruined a tube type tire as well. Ride quality was excellent. Grip also excellent although they were less grippy in cold weather. I have a few downhill KOM's so I do push the tires hard.

First impressions on the Conti GP 5000s. First off was the width. They are lower volume than the Schwalbe in the same size. Conti's measured 27.2mm on the same wheel. Inflated to the same 80/85psi I usually run, I was surprised to find that they actually damp vibration and big hits better than the larger volume Schwalbe. There is clearly some additional tech there to absorb vibration. Grip wise, I set another KOM descent on my first ride (chasing Mark Cavendish no less ). That speaks to confidence, steering precision and grip. No flats but I have barely started riding them. I couldn't comment on rolling resistance. They felt fast but then so did the Schwalbes. One interesting thing with the 25's is that on my wheel they have that ideal shape to be ever so slightly narrower than the wheel. Recent data from a few sources shows that having the wheel a mm or two proud of the sidewall is the lowest drag. The Schwalbes in contrast, hung over the side just a wee bit. I suspect, but can't confirm, that the 700x28 GP5000 would be about the same volume as the 700x25 Schwalble Pro One


So I still have to see how the GP 5000's last and how puncture resistant they are. I'll update this thread when I have more miles on them. So far, I love them and feel they are the next generation of tubeless road tires. But damn they are expensive!


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## cxwrench

Emilio700 said:


> When I wasn't being lazy, I'd rotate the tires front to back to extend the life a bit.


Interesting that they're so much narrower. You know why rotating tires is a bad idea, right?


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## upstateSC-rider

Great review, thanks. I'm also a fan of the Pro One TL but was hesitant on trying the 5k since I think it's their first road tubeless tire. Still have a small batch of other tires to try also. 
Don't be surprised if they expand a little after a week or two. 



cxwrench said:


> Interesting that they're so much narrower. You know why rotating tires is a bad idea, right?


Ok, I'll bite...Why is it a bad idea to rotate? I used to do also but now run a 23/25 combo.


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## cxwrench

upstateSC-rider said:


> Great review, thanks. I'm also a fan of the Pro One TL but was hesitant on trying the 5k since I think it's their first road tubeless tire. Still have a small batch of other tires to try also.
> Don't be surprised if they expand a little after a week or two.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I'll bite...Why is it a bad idea to rotate? I used to do also but now run a 23/25 combo.


You ALWAYS want the best tire that ideally has the lowest chance of flatting on the front. If you flat at the rear it's usually not too hard to control the bike...you flat on the front, especially in a turn, you're going down. Always have the newest/least damaged tire on the front.


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## Srode

cxwrench said:


> You ALWAYS want the best tire that ideally has the lowest chance of flatting on the front. If you flat at the rear it's usually not too hard to control the bike...you flat on the front, especially in a turn, you're going down. Always have the newest/least damaged tire on the front.


When the rear is worn out, moving the front to the rear and replacing the front with new is a better way to optimize tire use.


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## upstateSC-rider

Srode said:


> When the rear is worn out, moving the front to the rear and replacing the front with new is a better way to optimize tire use.


CX's reason is completely sound but I, and I believe the the OP, meant this way of moving front to rear and installing a new front, sorry for not being clear.

Just looked and the 5k's have been tested by the rolling resistance test guys and look good, look forward to trying them in the future.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews


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## changingleaf

Sound advice, but I will note that tubeless tires are generally much safer than tube-type tires when they flat because unless you get a very big cut the air comes out slowly.


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## Emilio700

Just read the report from bicyclerollingresistance.Com

Very impressive. We are fully into the era where the latest tubeless tires do virtually everything better than the best tubular tires.


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## cxwrench

Emilio700 said:


> Just read the report from bicyclerollingresistance.Com
> 
> Very impressive. We are fully into the era where the latest tubeless tires do virtually everything better than the best tubular tires.


With the exception of being heavier. And having worse ride quality. And being really really messy when you do flat. But yeah, other than those things they're better.


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## Finx

For someone who has never owned a tubular wheel... what exactly DO you do when you cut one mid-ride (assuming you don't have a support vehicle following you) ? Walk?


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## frdfandc

Finx said:


> For someone who has never owned a tubular wheel... what exactly DO you do when you cut one mid-ride (assuming you don't have a support vehicle following you) ? Walk?


You would carry a spare with you.


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## cxwrench

Finx said:


> For someone who has never owned a tubular wheel... what exactly DO you do when you cut one mid-ride (assuming you don't have a support vehicle following you) ? Walk?


Take your pick:


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## Emilio700

cxwrench said:


> With the exception of being heavier. And having worse ride quality. And being really really messy when you do flat. But yeah, other than those things they're better.


Raced on all manner of tubulars, road and cyclocross. The best tubeless match them in ride quality. The GP5000 goes even further, feeling like my old school Vittoria tubulars. That they self heal small punctures that destroy a tubular is a game changer. If you cut one bad enough to require a tube, you would also be pulling a well glued tubular off your carbon wheel without the benefit of shop tools. You and I both know how much fun that is on the road. Shake the tubeless goo out, slap a tube in and go. I'd much rather do that and have it be locked in than tippy toe riding an unglued tubular all the way home.

Initial install is also a lot easier that tubulars. Mount the tubeless like a regualr tire but don't worry about pinching the tube, because there isn't one. Use your modern bead seater pump or compressed air to seat bead. Use $3 syringe (Amazon) to squirt sealant into valve. Install valve core. Inflate. Ride until the tire is worn out because you will probably never flat. Small holes self heal while you are riding, most of the time without you even noticing.

I'm pretty proficient at installing tubulars by now (30 years..) but it's still a messy, stinky time consuming PITA compared to installing a new tubeless tire.

Weight? Who cares about a few grams. I stopped being a weight weenie decades ago.

So unless you have actually ridden an equivalent bike setup on GP5000's vs your favorite (fragile) tubular race tire, I'd guess you are simply offering a grumpy old school response without direct personal experience.

Try them.


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## upstateSC-rider

I'm a tubeless fan also, in fact I first converted my old Bontrager race wheels to tubeless back when Hutchinson was the only tire player in town and Stan's sold the kit. I got the feel of a tubed 25mm tire with my tubeless 23mm in an old Tarmac frame that wouldn't fit a 25.
Weight is a non-issue for me also since they're fairly close and I carry a spare tube/CO2 whether I'm running a tube or not. 
I did have a flat with tubeless about 3 years ago when the initial run of Pro One's were released and proven to be fragile, a little messy but definitely not a big deal.


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## Lombard

cxwrench said:


> You ALWAYS want the best tire that ideally has the lowest chance of flatting on the front. If you flat at the rear it's usually not too hard to control the bike...you flat on the front, especially in a turn, you're going down. Always have the newest/least damaged tire on the front.


This.



Srode said:


> When the rear is worn out, moving the front to the rear and replacing the front with new is a better way to optimize tire use.


And this.

I forget who it was on these forums who said it, but it goes like this. The way to rotate bike tires is like wiping after taking a dump. Always front to back and what comes off the rear goes in the trash.


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## aclinjury

forget tubeless! Latex tube plus vittoria corsa or veloflex at the front for feel and control. Latex tube and Vittoria rubino or Conti at the rear for longevity.

Throwing out tubeless prematurely because of big cuts.... will get expensive.
Go tubeless when you start to run 32c or bigger tires at lower psi.

and rolling resistance isn't all that important at speed. Wind resistance from tire profile is MUCH more important at speed, has something to do with square of speed. The Conti, having a smaller overall width, will always give a better wind resistance profile than the fatter Schwable.


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## Emilio700

aclinjury said:


> forget tubeless! Latex tube plus vittoria corsa or veloflex at the front for feel and control. Latex tube and Vittoria rubino or Conti at the rear for longevity.
> 
> Throwing out tubeless prematurely because of big cuts.... will get expensive.
> Go tubeless when you start to run 32c or bigger tires at lower psi.
> 
> and rolling resistance isn't all that important at speed. Wind resistance from tire profile is MUCH more important at speed, has something to do with square of speed. The Conti, having a smaller overall width, will always give a better wind resistance profile than the fatter Schwable.


I think you are in the wrong thread. The riders that clicked in have already decided to run tubeless and might be interested in user experiences between two of the top tires.

Whether to go tubeless or not is valid question and great subject for a new thread. 

And latex tubes, really? Really expensive, virtually no puncture resistance, virtually impossible to patch and oh yes, more rolling resistance that a state of the art tubeless.

Like cxwrench, I would encourage you to actually try a modern tubeless setup for a few hundred miles before you toss the baby out with the bathwater.


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## sswitzky

aclinjury said:


> forget tubeless! Latex tube plus vittoria corsa or veloflex at the front for feel and control. Latex tube and Vittoria rubino or Conti at the rear for longevity.
> 
> Throwing out tubeless prematurely because of big cuts.... will get expensive.
> Go tubeless when you start to run 32c or bigger tires at lower psi.
> 
> and rolling resistance isn't all that important at speed. Wind resistance from tire profile is MUCH more important at speed, has something to do with square of speed. The Conti, having a smaller overall width, will always give a better wind resistance profile than the fatter Schwable.


Just curious if you know the width of each of those tires at 100 psi (23mm and 25mm)? I have some challenging geometry to contend with.


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## Lombard

Emilio700 said:


> Like cxwrench, I would encourage you to actually try a modern tubeless setup for a few hundred miles before you toss the baby out with the bathwater.


Where did you come up with this? CXWrench did not say this.


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## Kerry Irons

aclinjury said:


> and rolling resistance isn't all that important at speed. Wind resistance from tire profile is MUCH more important at speed, has something to do with square of speed. The Conti, having a smaller overall width, will always give a better wind resistance profile than the fatter Schwable.


It is more correct to say that rolling resistance is a lower portion of total resistance when at speed. Rolling resistance essentially increases linearly with speed. The power required to overcome aero drag increases with the CUBE of speed. While tire width does have a small aero effect, it is much smaller than the rolling resistance, which you seem to want to ignore. Curious.


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## Emilio700

Lombard said:


> Where did you come up with this? CXWrench did not say this.


Say what exactly? He (she?) Expressed an opposing view when I offered that state-of-the-art tubeless tires do everything a tubular does but better. I guess that person has never actually tried a modern tubeless conversion. Perhaps we are both wrong. I just encouraged anyone who is vehemently against tubeless tires to actually live with them for a few hundred miles. Particularly those riders who are advocating tubulars for training.

Meanwhile, cycling weekly just published a review of a few of the GP5000 variants and linked some test data.

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/revie...grand-prix-5000-tubeless-tyre-14-years-making


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## aclinjury

Emilio700 said:


> I think you are in the wrong thread. The riders that clicked in have already decided to run tubeless and might be interested in user experiences between two of the top tires.
> 
> Whether to go tubeless or not is valid question and great subject for a new thread.
> 
> And latex tubes, really? Really expensive, virtually no puncture resistance, virtually impossible to patch and oh yes, more rolling resistance that a state of the art tubeless.
> 
> Like cxwrench, I would encourage you to actually try a modern tubeless setup for a few hundred miles before you toss the baby out with the bathwater.


I have posted a few long and detailed replies about tubeless and my experience with it in this forum. And November Dave (an experience wheelbuilder himself) has also chimed in his opinions about road tubeless. Tubeless has its place, but running a 25c tubeless is not one of those place IMO. I'll let you search for my past threads if you care all that much.

And a latex tube costs l$8 on probikekit, not that outrageous. And I've patched many latex tubes before using a cut piece of another latex tube and tubular glue. It works just as well as patching a butyl tube.

Latex tube plus vit corsa/veloflex will own any tubeless tire in term of control and comfort. Tubeless tires, by necessity, have a too thick of a carcass to offer good feel.


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## aclinjury

Kerry Irons said:


> It is more correct to say that rolling resistance is a lower portion of total resistance when at speed. Rolling resistance essentially increases linearly with speed. The power required to overcome aero drag increases with the CUBE of speed. While tire width does have a small aero effect, it is *much smaller than the rolling resistance*, which you seem to want to ignore. Curious.


much smaller effect?? Define smaller. But Zipp and Specialize will disagree with you on this based on their own wind tunnel test between 23c vs 25c tires on their own wheels.

However, you're right about the mathematical relationships


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## aclinjury

cxwrench said:


> Take your pick:


over the last 3 years, I've had 4 flats on tub. I was successful in fixing 3 of those flats. I carry a very small tube of superglue (it's size half your pinky, they sell these in bulk on ebay), a piece of napkin paper, and 1.5 oz of stans (use the 2oz stans bottle). So when I got those 3 punctures, I first superglue the outside of the tire, the napkin is to pressdown on the tire so I wouldn't get superglue on my finger (superglue activates with water so it cures instantly). Then remove the valvecore and dump in the Stans. Then pump up the tire and rotate. This fixed 3 flats, 2 of those flats still held today, 1 flat did hold but after putting some mileage on the sealed hole didn't hold and so I threw the tire away since it was beginning to square off.

But one time I had to change the entire out because the cut was just too big and it was on the sidewall so I knew she was a goner.

out here in Socal roads are nice and smooth, and so risk of flats are relatively low, so it's acceptable for me to use tub. If roads are bad, then I wouldn't. Next step on my to-learn skills is how to actually repair a tub by cutting it open, patch the tube, and sew it back. This one guy I know does it quite efficiently! The hardest part is removing the damn tubular glue from the base tape so you can sew it back up after you cut it open, and i find myself having no patient here so I threw the tire away, but maybe i'll give it another go again


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## Kerry Irons

aclinjury said:


> much smaller effect?? Define smaller. But Zipp and Specialize will disagree with you on this based on their own wind tunnel test between 23c vs 25c tires on their own wheels.
> 
> However, you're right about the mathematical relationships


At 25 mph, total rolling resistance is about 55 watts. That's from tires, bearings, and chain. Tires are about 20% of that, though that doesn't include suspension losses (the vibrations transmitted to the rider because the tire is not perfectly compliant). My read of the literature is that tire shape (and related surface structure) can be relatively significant compared to width. IOW, width alone is not completely determinate.


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## Emilio700

*1200 mile update*

After about 1200 miles on the GP5000 TL's, much of it in the rain, it seems they are far more puncture resistant than the Schwalbe Pro One's. I would always have cuts in the tread of the Schwalbes by the time I took them off. No cuts in the GP5000's. That's weird given how much riding in crap road conditions I did in January. Had two slow punctures on the GP5000 TL that sealed themselves quickly, only one of which required I stop and top off the tire with the mini pump. The other only lost maybe 20psi then sealed for good so I never stopped.

Not scientific but based on long history with the Schwalbe Pro One TL and a solid rainy month on the GP5000 TL, my opinion is the the GP5000 is far more puncture and cut resistant. Wear so far, is better than the Pro One too. Looks like it will go 2000 miles or so. Pro One never got past 1500 on my bike.


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## changingleaf

Thanks for the review at 1200 miles. Looks good so far.


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## Fr0hickey

*Tubeless fan here too.*



upstateSC-rider said:


> I'm a tubeless fan also, in fact I first converted my old Bontrager race wheels to tubeless back when Hutchinson was the only tire player in town and Stan's sold the kit. I got the feel of a tubed 25mm tire with my tubeless 23mm in an old Tarmac frame that wouldn't fit a 25. Weight is a non-issue for me also since they're fairly close and I carry a spare tube/CO2 whether I'm running a tube or not. I did have a flat with tubeless about 3 years ago when the initial run of Pro One's were released and proven to be fragile, a little messy but definitely not a big deal.


 I've only run tubeless since 2018, the first year when I went over 4k miles in a year. On the first 6mile ride on the first set of Schwalbe Pro One 25, I dodged a small piece of L-shaped metal and the front wheel/tire missed it, but the rear wheel did not. It put a 1 inch gash on the sidewall, and I insta-flatted. Messy, orange sealant everywhere. Luckily, I had a spare tube and a boot to get back home. After replacing the rear tire with another Schwalbe, this time a Pro One 28, I rode the remaining 4k miles on that tire. No flats in the remaining 4k miles. *** A few weeks ago, I decided to replace the rear tire, as the Schwalbe is clearly worn. The thread is squared-off. Stupid me, I decided to replace the rear tire a few hours before a long ride. Without an air compressor/tank. Needless to say, I was unable to get the Schwalbe Pro One 28 to seat into my HED Belgium+. So, I put a tube in the rear tire and hoped for the best. The ride was in the wet rain and of course, all manner of road debris would wash towards the shoulder of the road. After 80miles into the ride, I get a puncture, in the rear tire, where I have a tube. Luckily, I had a spare tube. But 5 miles after that, I get a slow leak. Time to patch the original tube, and this one let me finish the ride. After finishing the ride, I inspect the bike and I see a 1/4inch and 1/8 inch metal sliver in my front tire. I pull these out, and the sealant seals these up toot-sweet. The rear tire with the tube has gone flat, a few hours after the ride, probably another metal sliver or my patch job wasn't too good. I, for one, would welcome the day when there is a road tubeless standard that is easy to mount, easy to install (bead-seat) and sealant-optional. Maybe in a few years.


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## Fr0hickey

But wider/fatter Schwalbe with lower pressure is more comfy.
There is only so much chamois padding and saddles can do for comfort.


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## Fr0hickey

Thanks for the 1200mile review.

I have noticed that the Schwalbe Pro Ones do get a lot of cuts on the tread, at least in my situation.

One point though is that the Conti GP5000s are for hooked rims only, which is fine for aluminum wheels. I'm eyeing the ENVE SES4.5AR rims for my next build but these are hookless rims, so the Conti's are not recommended, only the Schwalbe's.

Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3V are hooked rims.


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## Lombard

I would like to know what is the purpose of hookless rims? Is there any advantage to this design?


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## Fr0hickey

From bikeradar
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-off-the-hook-40749/

However, for road tubeless, manufacturers such as Mavic and Continental have said that for pressures above 60psi, the hooks are needed to avoid blow-off.


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## Rone69

Emilio700 said:


> After about 1200 miles on the GP5000 TL's, much of it in the rain, it seems they are far more puncture resistant than the Schwalbe Pro One's. I would always have cuts in the tread of the Schwalbes by the time I took them off. No cuts in the GP5000's. That's weird given how much riding in crap road conditions I did in January. Had two slow punctures on the GP5000 TL that sealed themselves quickly, only one of which required I stop and top off the tire with the mini pump. The other only lost maybe 20psi then sealed for good so I never stopped.
> 
> Not scientific but based on long history with the Schwalbe Pro One TL and a solid rainy month on the GP5000 TL, my opinion is the the GP5000 is far more puncture and cut resistant. Wear so far, is better than the Pro One too. Looks like it will go 2000 miles or so. Pro One never got past 1500 on my bike.



which sealant do you use?

</pre>


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## Lombard

Fr0hickey said:


> From bikeradar
> https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-off-the-hook-40749/
> 
> However, for road tubeless, manufacturers such as Mavic and Continental have said that for pressures above 60psi, the hooks are needed to avoid blow-off.


Ahhh, lowers manufacturing costs. Nuff said!


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## Emilio700

Rone69 said:


> which sealant do you use?
> 
> </pre>


I use Orange Seal standard formula. As I race all my bikes, it needs to seal quickly. The downside is that you need to refresh the sealant about every 3 months.

The GP5000 does mount a little easier than the Schwalbe. Acebike 46mm hooked bead rims. The Schwalbe required a little wresting and white fingers. The GP5000 no more difficult than a tight tube type clincher. I carry one steel core tire lever.

I have now run through one rear but still on the original rear. Small cut in the front but sealed up just fine by itself. Rear was worn to cord (surprise!) and still held air without any new punctures. Overall, loving the tire. Just wish they cost less. To be fair, the Schwalbes were near $95 when first released but slowly dropped in price until now when you can occasionally find them for less than usd50.00


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## Rone69

Emilio700 said:


> I use Orange Seal standard formula. As I race all my bikes, it needs to seal quickly. The downside is that you need to refresh the sealant about every 3 months.
> 
> The GP5000 does mount a little easier than the Schwalbe. Acebike 46mm hooked bead rims. The Schwalbe required a little wresting and white fingers. The GP5000 no more difficult than a tight tube type clincher. I carry one steel core tire lever.
> 
> I have now run through one rear but still on the original rear. Small cut in the front but sealed up just fine by itself. Rear was worn to cord (surprise!) and still held air without any new punctures. Overall, loving the tire. Just wish they cost less. To be fair, the Schwalbes were near $95 when first released but slowly dropped in price until now when you can occasionally find them for less than usd50.00


Thank you very much Emilio.

What about comfort, grip and descending quality, comparing the GP5000 vs the Pro One ?


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## Emilio700

Rone69 said:


> Thank you very much Emilio.
> 
> What about comfort, grip and descending quality, comparing the GP5000 vs the Pro One ?


I think I covered that pretty well already in my previous posts?


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## Rone69

Emilio700 said:


> I think I covered that pretty well already in my previous posts?


Sorry! 
Thank you very much.


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## Rone69

Have you run with Hutchinson Performance 11Storm TRL ?


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## Emilio700

Rone69 said:


> Have you run with Hutchinson Performance 11Storm TRL ?


Nope.


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## kevina6

Picked up a pair of gp5000 TL 25c today but the just won’t fit my rims... can just about get the first bead onto the rim. 

Unfortunately they’ll have to go back. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Emilio700

kevina6 said:


> Picked up a pair of gp5000 TL 25c today but the just won’t fit my rims... can just about get the first bead onto the rim.
> 
> Unfortunately they’ll have to go back.


What rims, if I may ask? Hook bead tubeless specific I presume.

Mine can just about be put on bare handed. Easier than the Schwalbe's were and way easier than the Hutchinson TL I tied a few years back. China Carbon tubeless, 21mm internal. Acebike I think.


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## kevina6

Emilio700 said:


> What rims, if I may ask? Hook bead tubeless specific I presume.
> 
> Mine can just about be put on bare handed. Easier than the Schwalbe's were and way easier than the Hutchinson TL I tied a few years back. China Carbon tubeless, 21mm internal. Acebike I think.


I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## changingleaf

kevina6 said:


> I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you try mounting by doing the valve area last?


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## Lombard

kevina6 said:


> I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount


Be sure to start opposite the valve end. Push the tire bead into the groove in the center of the rim. Work around both sides like that until you reach the valve end.


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## kevina6

Lombard said:


> Be sure to start opposite the valve end. Push the tire bead into the groove in the center of the rim. Work around both sides like that until you reach the valve end.


Tried all that even the LBS could not mount them. Have gone with the ordinary non tubeless GP’s. The non tubless mounted in seconds 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Lombard

kevina6 said:


> Tried all that even the LBS could not mount them. Have gone with the ordinary non tubeless GP’s. The non tubless mounted in seconds


The LBS couldn't mount them?? Oh brother!


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## j102

Thanks for the review. The GP 5000 is one of the tires I have been looking at.


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## Emilio700

Update on price, finding them from online shops in the EU for $55 (usd) shipped to the US. Best way to google search is to use the brand and SKU from the Conti site: https://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle/tires/race-tires/grand-prix-5000-tl

XE.com will give you exchange rates, which are good this week.


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## Boooooo

aclinjury said:


> forget tubeless! Latex tube plus vittoria corsa or veloflex at the front for feel and control. Latex tube and Vittoria rubino or Conti at the rear for longevity.


Tried same combination you found me absolutely agree with you (best control and best performance) but I am converting tubeless the same, why? 
1) ever thought about consequences of tube exploding (because of manufacture fault, rim heat etc...going flat in one second) 
2) what you do if flat twice or more in a trip? Bring with you many spare tubes? (me bring tubeless worms kit)
3) rims now are tubeless ready means have to struggle both for mount and unmount whatever kind of tyre, I choose tubeless, ok are a bit harder, but less chances to mount/unmount 

(sorry for my not good english)


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## Lombard

Boooooo said:


> Tried same combination you found me absolutely agree with you (best control and best performance) but I am converting tubeless the same, why?
> 1) ever thought about consequences of tube exploding (because of manufacture fault, rim heat etc...going flat in one second)
> 2) what you do if flat twice or more in a trip? Bring with you many spare tubes? (me bring tubeless worms kit)
> 3) rims now are tubeless ready means have to struggle both for mount and unmount whatever kind of tyre, I choose tubeless, ok are a bit harder, but less chances to mount/unmount
> 
> (sorry for my not good english)


Hey, your English is far better than my Italian.  

Sorry, I haven't been convinced to go tubeless. The messy sealant issues alone is enough to deter me. Besides that, I don't get flats very often - maybe once a year.


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