# handle bar tilt



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

My handle bar is rotated a bit up towards me, just 1 line from the center line, when I look at the 4 bolt stem cap. my stem points down, and I have about 8cm saddle to bar drop

Looking at pictures of some other bikes maybe my setup is "wrong"?
The bike was assembled that way and it never bothered me, feels great.
if I move it back to center line, I think a bumpy descent if I am using the hoods my palm may go over the hood. Well I guess the hoods can be moved but I don't want to have to wrap the bars again?

So is there a right or wrong to deviate from the center of the bar, that's what those lines are for right?

While we are discussing can you tell me how are the drops supposed to point?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

The traditional way to mount the bars on a racing bike (though not the only way) was to have the flat section of the drops nearly horizontal, or with the bar end pointing a few degrees down from horizontal. No bar end should ever be pointing up from horizontal.

Lately people have been rotating their bars further back to make spending all their time on the hoods easier.

I don't know which line you're talking about. Many bars come with reference lines, but there is no standard, so the lines don't have a universal meaning with every stem you might pair the bar with.

Take a look at the bars in this otherwise horrific pic:








That's about level. So anywhere from this to about 30 degrees up is considered okay.


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## esac (Jun 1, 2010)

1. mount the bars correctly to your liking.
2. take bar tape off.
3. adjust hoods accordingly.
4. put bar tape back on.


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## ukbloke (Sep 1, 2007)

It doesn't make sense to blindly align those centering lines with the center of the stem bolt pattern. The reason is that there are many different stem angles (with respect to the horizontal) depending on stem and head tube angle, and those centering lines on the handlebar are oblivious to them. I like having the transition from the tops to the hoods being close to horizontal and smooth, but there are many ways to do this and it is a fit and personal preference issue.


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## aengbretson (Sep 17, 2009)

all depends on what kind of bars you're running. I like classic bars so I keep the drops just about level for good grip when out of saddle. Compact bars are most commonly done with a flat transition to the hoods, and then rotate the bar so the hoods are just above the horizontal (generally more comfortable). I despise "ergo" or "anatomic" bars and avoid them at all costs as they have incredibly short sections for the drops and force my entire arm to be in one position while in the hooks.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> maybe my setup is "wrong"?
> 
> it never bothered me, feels great


.

Then it's not "wrong." There's no one way to do it, especially in these days when bars come in many shapes. You do it how it works for you. It's entirely possible that yours, even though they feel great, could be changed a little and be even better. But that's not based on some "rules."


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

aengbretson said:


> all depends on what kind of bars you're running. I like classic bars so I keep the drops just about level for good grip when out of saddle. Compact bars are most commonly done with a flat transition to the hoods, and then rotate the bar so the hoods are just above the horizontal (generally more comfortable). I despise "ergo" or "anatomic" bars and avoid them at all costs as they have incredibly short sections for the drops and force my entire arm to be in one position while in the hooks.



^^^^^^ This.


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## AvantDale (Dec 26, 2008)

I've tried moving my bars around and what I felt most comfortable is with the ends of the bars slightly pointing at an angle...towards the rear hub. This way my hoods (SRAM) are slightly up and when I'm in the drops...my wrists are not so kinked.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

There are compromises in bar setup. Typically, you set the bottom tip of the lever flush with the bottom of the bars, then wrap 'em. Some people will deviate a bit, with the last trend being during the "Lance Years" when levers were mounted very high on the bars. It was presumed this was done because frames were being designed with a severely limited ability to get the bars to a decent height for comfortable riding.

Placing levers too high can make it difficult to reach the levers while in the drops. Same can be said for properly placed levers when the bars themselves are tilted too much. Also, you may find that a comfortable hand position on the drops is not the ideal reach to the levers; a little wrist action may be needed to grab the levers. Anatomic bars complicate things.

What I do is place the tips of the levers flush with the bottom of the bars. And, I always ride descents in the drops because yes; with a weight bias toward the front wheel, a big bump can cause you to more readily lose your grip on the hoods and send you pavement surfing.

I set the bottom of the bars parallel to the ground. When I try to angle them down it feels like my hands want to slip off the ends. So you see, there is a certain amount of feel associated with getting the proper position. Usually, people emulate what the pros do, then modify the position slightly from there.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

If it feels fine......


*LEAVE IT ALONE*


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

esac said:


> 1. mount the bars correctly to your liking.
> 2. take bar tape off.
> 3. adjust hoods accordingly.
> 4. put bar tape back on.


This may or may not work, I know Campy is very specific about where on the bars their shifters need to be mounted (has to do with the curve of the bar pressing against the rear covers and impinging on the shifting mechanism) It is a REAL issue. Generally, the blade of the brake is kept pretty much level with the bottom of the bar on the drops.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I adjust mine so that my wrists are straight when I'm riding in my 2 favorite positions, on the hoods or on the drops. I don't like to have my wrists and hands bent back toward my body on down toward the front wheel. Naturally, to get the "on the hoods" position right I also have to make sure the levers are right, too.


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## Cpk (Aug 1, 2009)

frdfandc said:


> If it feels fine......
> 
> 
> *LEAVE IT ALONE*



yep! 

BTW mine are titled slightly up too


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## TWB8s (Sep 18, 2003)

frdfandc said:


> If it feels fine......
> 
> 
> *LEAVE IT ALONE*



This^^^

But your seat's too high.  

It is hard for novice riders to get their bike dialed. Most can't accept that the important thing is for it to work for them regardless of what it looks like or how it compares to someone else they're riding with. Bar tilt, stem rise, seat angle and so on are personal and can't be graphed or formulated.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Good explanation: http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/12/bikes-tech/ask-nick-handlebar-tilt-resting-your-cables-and-dont-touch-my-tools_153864


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

Thanks you guys, all the suggestions got me thinking a little
and observed my wrist is bent slightly because of the current tilt. In the drops it is also not that good because the lever doesn't seem to dip down far enough. But then, I am not very good at using the drops right now.
so I think I am going to rotate it down a little to see if it feels more natural.


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