# Easton EA 90 R4 Hubs, Help



## jkaller

Hi all, this is my first post so be kind. I am not a mechanical type, I have a new set of Easton EA 90 Aero's. They are making a strange clicking sound when I ride. I tried to tighten the preload adjustment, but the sound remains. I also noticed a bit of a wobble when bike is stationary and you apply force (hand) side to side. This is not the regular flex you would feel, but more of a positive click. any suggestions? (besides the obvious take them back to the dealer... which I may do next week)


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## CleavesF

Err... they're supposed to click. I believe I was complaining a while back about the utterly noisy freewheel that's noisy to some, but not others. 

As for a wobble, your hoops aren't true. It's very possible. Or a cracked nip. Or this or that. 

A better description of the problem would help better, or pictures or preferably both.


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## Juanmoretime

Very strange. Mine are very quiet even when freewheeling. If you can't figure it out go to the shop where you bought them.


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## Kerry Irons

*Noise source*



jkaller said:


> Hi all, this is my first post so be kind. I am not a mechanical type, I have a new set of Easton EA 90 Aero's. They are making a strange clicking sound when I ride. I tried to tighten the preload adjustment, but the sound remains. I also noticed a bit of a wobble when bike is stationary and you apply force (hand) side to side. This is not the regular flex you would feel, but more of a positive click. any suggestions? (besides the obvious take them back to the dealer... which I may do next week)


How do you know it is the wheels? Unless you swap out the wheels and have the noise go away, it could be any number of noise sources.


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## jkaller

*Thanks for the responses.*

Thank you for your responses. I know it must be like the "my bike is creaking" question.
I will finger tighten the adjusters, ride tomorrow with club, then take to shop.

Jkaller.


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## markito200

Hello all, you just need to tighten the bearing preload. For some weird reason mine get loose after about 30 miles on the road. I hear that it is some sort of O ring that wears out with time.


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## Easton

The bearing preload is held in place by friction from an o-ring. If you notice that your wheels come lose after only a few rides call the Easton Wheel Service center toll free at 1.800.347.3901 x 5177 7:00 - 3:30 PST and they can offer several solutions.


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## jkaller

Just to finish out this thread. I took the wheels back to place I bought them. They are back at Easton now, I am awaiting their return. I don't have the final diagnosis, but when the new or rebuilt wheel comes back, I will post what the issue was. 

BTW, I am riding on a Bontrager Race Lite wheel for a temporary rear. Once we swapped wheels, my bike was silent, no creaks, no funky clicks in the drive train etc... The Race Lite is stiff, but does not feel as smooth or roll as well as the Easton. Offers a bit of a harsher ride.

Thanks again, ride safe.


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## GHub

My R4 rear hub starts to make a terrible suite of noises after I've been riding for about 40 minutes. The noise only occurs while I am putting some power through the chain (though it doesn't seem to matter how much power). LBS has so far failed to fix it - they can't reproduce it.

I'm now riding my old spare rear wheel because I can't stand the racket. Have emailed Easton but got no reply.

My latest theory is that the cassette body is not tightened correctly. Does anybody out there have a suggestion?


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## Easton

Hi GHub, 

I don't have a record of your email but we'd be happy to help you resolve this issue. Most of the time this turns out to be something very simple but unfortunatley it's sometimes tough to diagnose via email. Please call the Easton Wheel Center at: 1-800-347-3901 and we'll help you out. 

Easton Marketing


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## Nopcme

Interesting about the O-ring theory. I have EA90SLs that get noisy occasionally. The first time it happened, the freehub cassette was so loose I turned it off with my hand. All the other times, its been the preload as previosly posted. I don't have to tighten it every 30-40 miles though, but every couple of hundrend for sure which is not too bothersome. These wheels also have a precular tendency to allow water inside the tire during really wet rides also. I guess it leaks in around the valve stem.


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## jkaller

*Easton Service Rocks*

My apologies for taking too long to post this. My Wheels were sent back to Easton. They were diagnosed as having a slightly misshaped hub body. This caused a creaking grinding sound. The wheel was completely rebuilt at no cost, and sent back to my local dealer. They are rolling great with no sound.

One note, about the pre-load adjusters coming loose every so often. I was told by a mechanic, adjust it, and add a few dabs of locktite. Problem seems to be solved with no ill effects.

Thank you to Steve of Fetish Cycles for sound business practice, and Easton for great service.

Ride Safe everyone!


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## mr clean

I had a similar issue after 10 miles of riding my new wheels. After my shop took them apart we found one of the ceramic freehub bearings was toast. I hope this is just a one time issue.


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## killing-joker

*Just when you think life is great on your new bike*

wow. I don't know whether to be relieved to find it is my EA90SLs that have the "knocking", clicking or tapping problem (can't decide which it is), rather than the SRAM Red BB on my BMC SLC01.
It started after only about 200 miles so am really pissed off. I really thought the Eastons were going to be reliable solid performers, however after putting my Fulcrum 1s on today I had a quiet ride in the same Cyprus hills that cause the sound to start in my Eastons.

I guess I will have to get the wheels back to the UK to be sorted out by Easton / Evans Cycles.


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## Nopcme

Update since my last post. I have probably close to 10,000 miles on my set of EA90SLs now. I've only broken one spoke (front) and this was probably related to a previous crash. I have learned that these are not zero maintenance wheels. I had a prolonged bout of clicking and frankly a horid grinding sound in the back wheel that continued despite several shops looking at it and it being sent back to Easton once for a rebuild. After each service, the sound would resolve for a while, then come back. Finally, through trial and error, I discovered that the paws in the freehub are very prone to sticking if they get the least bit dirty or dry. If I just disassemble the hub, clean the paws, lubricate, reassemble and properly torque according to the instructions on the Easton website every few months, things are smooth and quiet. This sounds like alot of work but really only takes 20-30minutes at most. You might want to try it before throwing in the towel on what is an OTW pretty nice wheelset for the money.


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## SROC3

Mine made noises recently and its been really bugging me. I recently brought it to my LBS and they did a complete dis assemble and reassemble, lube and all. I took it for a ride today and on the way back (from a very short 10 mile ride), that damn clicking sound came back again. It's just too much annoyance for the money I paid for them. I realyl hope they come out with a regular hub that has no pre-load bullshit. The others don't right???


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## killing-joker

well, I tightened up the pre-load and went for a few rides on them. I thought it was cured but yesterday it started again while out on a long ride. Back to the Fulcrum 1s again. they look much better anyway


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## killing-joker

I'm a great believer in giving positive as well as negative feedback:
Benjamin from Easton has been amazing in the past few weeks trying to help me get this issue sorted out. I won't go into details but I've got massive respect for Easton now.


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## deviousalex

So the fixed rear wheel make no sound while freewheeling? My EA90 TT rear makes a very distinctive clicking sound while freewheeling. It seems normal to me and I've heard countless other wheelsets make similar sounds.


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## killing-joker

the problem has / had nothing to do with freewheeling - it was when powering up a hill a clicking/clunking sound would happen


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## roadie01

To everyone that is having problems with the hub clicking or clunking while under power. There are several potential issues that could cause this problem.

1. If the chain skips while under power and particularly in one or two heavily used gears your chain is worn and has worn out your cassett or chain rings, or both. 

2. If the free hub is skipping you have to ask what type of lube is being used inside the free hub and how much?. To much grease in a free hub body will cause the pauls to stick and not fully engage the teeth. I use Phil Wood Tenasious oil in my Mavic free hub (as recomended by Mavic) and it runs smooth as the day I bought the bike several years and thousands of miles later. 

3. Is the cassette properly torqued to the free hub body? 

I won't go into the whole check for proper shifting system adjustment.


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## celeste boy

killing-joker said:


> I'm a great believer in giving positive as well as negative feedback:
> Benjamin from Easton has been amazing in the past few weeks trying to help me get this issue sorted out. I won't go into details but I've got massive respect for Easton now.


Maybe Benjamin from Easton could become my Guardian Angel too and cure the chain slapping on the chain stay? See my thread on 'chainslapping'.
It's a bit far from Oz to ring but I have tried contacting Easton by e mail. Waiting.

c b


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## Nopcme

I've said it before and I will say it again. Take off the freehub assembly, clean it with a good solvent / WD 40, dry, lubricate with a thin quality lubricant (I use ceramic based chain lube), put it back together and torque with an actuall micro-torque wrench to spec. Do not rely on a bike shop whatever their reputation. I have been continually let down by shops. Repeat every 3 months or so. It works for me. These are not zero maintenance wheels. Spokes also break - I'm up to 3 on the front only now.


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## celeste boy

Nopcme said:


> I've said it before and I will say it again. Take off the freehub assembly, clean it with a good solvent / WD 40, dry, lubricate with a thin quality lubricant (I use ceramic based chain lube), put it back together and torque with an actuall micro-torque wrench to spec. Do not rely on a bike shop whatever their reputation. I have been continually let down by shops. Repeat every 3 months or so. It works for me. These are not zero maintenance wheels. Spokes also break - I'm up to 3 on the front only now.


Thanks Nopcme. Maybe you have not read my thread but i have even purchased a new freehub, done all those things you said on the new one (as well as the old) and i still have this problem. Note that it is not the same problem that others are having. I haven't seen this 'chainslap' business anywhere else. This is why i have subscribed to an overseas forum.
You sound a bit frustrated but not as frustrated as me knowing that i can put on any of 3 cheaper sets of wheels and they will just go- no problems.
I'm really thinking it's in the bearings in the actual wheel. But the jury is still out.

Thanks for your interest.

c b


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