# Speedster S30



## Opus51569

Reviews for the Scott Speedster seem to be relatively few and far between. I recently purchased a 2009 Speedster S30 and would like to create a kind of ongoing review over time to serve as a resource for anyone considering buying this bike. I'll start with how/why I chose the Scott and update periodically with reviews.


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## Opus51569

*The Background*

I am a relative newb to road cycling. My first bike was a Trek 7000 that I essentially converted into a hybrid. In 2006 I purchased my first road bike, a Trek Pilot 1.0. I have a little over 4,000 miles on it and it has proven to be an excellent bike overall. My typical rides range anywhere between 15 and 60 miles. I ride alone with the one notable exception being RAGBRAI in 2007. Lately I have begun commuting to work by bike. While the commute is pretty short, about 15 miles round-trip, it is over some pretty rough roads. The commuting is part of what brought me to the decision to puchase a second bike. The rough roads are starting to take their toll on the Trek (sliced tires, broken spokes, etc.) Plus, there is a certain amount of changeover if I want to go from commuting to a faster, longer ride. So, the plan was to purchase a new bike primarily for longer solo outings and keep the Trek as a commuter ride. That's the background in a nutshell. Next up, what led me to buying the Scott.


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## Opus51569

*The Purchase*

When it came to purchasing a bike, I had a pretty good idea of what I was looking for:

An aluminum frame - I am a clydesdale (5'10" 240 lbs.) and despite all of the advice I have read to the contrary, I knew a carbon frame would have me worrying about every pot-hole I hit. Even if I could get past the irrational fear, I assumed a full carbon frame would be out of my price range.

A compact double - The Trek is a triple and has worked fine, but I rarely used the small cog. Aside from a few short, steep hills, the terrain here is relatively flat.

A Tiagra group - The Trek has a Sora/Tiagra combo that has been extremely reliable. I don't ride the drops very often, though, because the bars on the Trek are relatively deep and the Sora shifters make gear changes more difficult. With a new bike I wanted to be able to work on riding in the drops more often.

Price - Hats off to everyone who can afford the $2K+ bikes. I couldn't justify to my wife spending more for a bike than a mortgage payment.

With these criteria, I started researching brands and models. I narrowed the search to:

GT - found one model for $999 but none of the shops in my area carried it.
Trek - was a sentimental choice because of my previous good experiences with the brand, but models like the 1.2 didn't seem to be as well spec'd as other brands for the same price. Also, after owning two, I was looking for something different.
Cannondale - both the Synapse and the CAAD 9 are very nice bikes, but like the Trek, I was left with the impression that you pay primarily for the name and the frame.
Jamis - a very nice bike but a bit out of my price range.
Felt - also nice and also a bit beyond my reach.
Specialized - the Allez compact double was, again, just a bit more than I could afford.
Fuji - also a contender.
Scott - the Speedster caught my eye almost immediately due to the unique sculpting of
the top and down tubes. At the time I went to look, however, the bike was priced out of my range.

I test rode a Jamis and a Cannondale and both fit pretty well. Others either weren't available or were still too expensive. By the time I came back around to look at the Scott, it had been marked down by $150. I took it for a ride and found it to be a good fit. The S30 came with 105 front and rear derailleurs and brifters. In short (if that's possible at this point) the bike fit well, was aesthetically very pleasing, and was more than I was looking for at a pricepoint I could afford. I closed my eyes and bought it.

Next up...initial impressions...


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## Opus51569

I purchased the bike from a big box sporting goods store. Before anyone snipes me for not supporting my LBS, this store has a significant section devoted specifically to cycling (bikes [Surly, Fuji, Scott], clothing, accessories, etc.) and while they do offer maintenance and service on bikes, they lack some of the amenities you might find at a smaller store (bike fitting, etc.) This wasn't a huge concern because I have learned (mostly through trial and error) the basics of fitting a bike to my riding style. My Trek Pilot, for example, now runs with the seat post turned 180 degrees because, after nearly three years, I finally figured out that the frame (a 58cm) is a bit too big. That bike, by the way, was purchased from a small local LBS that didn't offer a bike fitting, either.

I say this because I wasn't expecting anything special when I went to pick up the bike. I got what I expected. The bike had to be ordered and built up because they didn't have a compact crankset in stock in my size. When the bike was ready, I came in and the guy behind the counter brought it out, asked me if I needed to purchase pedals, but otherwise told me to enjoy my new bike. I knew from talking to the salesman previously that I could bring the bike in after a few weeks/hundred miles, to have it adjusted for cable stretch, etc. Other than that, I was on my own.

Getting the bike home, I swapped pedals from my Trek, which is currently sitting with a broken spoke and waiting to go to the shop for an overall wheel truing and tune-up. As a side note, would it have killed them to slap a pair of crappy $10 platform pedals on the bike so I could actually ride it from the store? I don't think so. The pedals I installed were Odyssey Triple Traps. I have never been able to commit to the whole clipless thing. Don't get me wrong, I love my bikes, but there are times when I don't want to be quite so physically attached to them. And again, for the kind of riding I do, the speed and mechanical advantage I would get from going clipless isn't a huge factor. Anywho, I swapped the pedals and took it for a short spin. It didn't take long for me to figure out that the lack of pedals from the store meant that the bike hadn't been test ridden by whoever built the bike. It may have shifted fine in the workstand, but while riding I noticed the front derailleur wasn't shifting cleanly. Sometimes it would take one click to shift from the large ring to the small ring. Other times, it would take two clicks. I made a few adjustments to the cable tension and I think I have solved the problem. The only other issue I have had thus far is with the seat. As a clydesdale, the stock seat may work perfectly well for your typical rider, but for my butt, it was a bit unyielding. I haven't given up on it, but for the moment I have swapped it out for a Terry Cite Y saddle I had on hand. The extra padding and the cut-out have made a difference. If I can drop some weight, I will give the Scott saddle another try.

As for the overall initial ride, I have read folks in reviews talk about the relative "stiffness" of bikes and use terms like "power transfer" and while I understand these concepts intellectually, I find they are difficult to describe in words. It's like colors. You and I see an orange and agree that the color of it is, in fact, orange, but how do we know that the color you are actually seeing is the same as the color I am seeing? That said, I can say that the Speedster is significantly more stiff than the Trek I am used to riding, especially when it comes to take-offs or quick acceleration. By that, I mean that when transferring the bike from left to right when accelerating, the bike seems to flex very little in either the frame or the wheels. I can assume, then, that more of the energy I am putting into the cranks is being used to propel the bike forward rather than being lost in the flex of the bike. In short, it feels fast. When it comes to bumps in the road, however, the bike actually seems to absorb them better than the Trek. I realize this can be attributed to a number of factors (different forks, wheelset, tires, seat, etc.) but it has been a pleasant surprise. 

Riding the compact compared to the triple will take some getting used to. On the triple, I mostly stayed in the middle ring (a 39 I believe) with occasional shifts to the large cog for extended flat or downhill sections. Finding the similar gearing on the compact (50/34) without cross chaining too badly is a work in progress. I know the gears ratios are there, I just have to find them and do a little retraining of how/when to make the appropriate shifts. 

So, to recap. 

Stock Scott Speedster S30 (56cm)

Changes - Swapped Terry Cite Y saddle / installed Odyssey Triple Trap pedals

Issues - minor adjustment to front derailleur

Overall impressions - feels lighter than I know it is / "stiff" take-offs yet absorbs the road well

More later...


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## Opus51569

*The Pedal Saga*

So, I went for a ride after work on Monday and on the return trip, I started to notice an odd sensation from the right pedal. As I rode it got increasingly worse and I pulled over to check it out. Everything looked okay, but it felt like the pedal spindle was either cracking or had cracked. The Triple Traps were a few years old, after all, so I figured I was due for a new set of pedals. It wasn't until I got the bike home and got it up on the rack that I discovered what had actually been happening. The threads had been rounding off inside the crank arm. I couldn't believe it. I know I installed the pedals correctly. Seated fully but not over-tight. Not cross-threaded (threading on always toward the front wheel). The problem, of course, was that the pedals were the only thing that didn't come with the bike.

Prepared for the worst, I took the bike back to Scheels and explained the situation. They took a look and said they would have to consult with a SCOTT rep to see if this was a warranty issue or not. As they were looking at the bike, I heard one of the mechanics mutter something about how the pedals must have been too tight. I knew that wasn't the case, but decided not to argue the issue. I left the bike with them and went home.

The next day, I sent an e-mail to SCOTT. I had the address of one of their warranty guys because I had written previously to ask if they sold spare end caps for the handlebars. Rather than charging me for a set, he simply shipped me two of them free of charge. Anywho, I sent the e-mail first to thank him for the end caps and then I also explained the situation. In his reply, he seemed surprised that Scheels would bother with consulting a SCOTT rep since the cranks were made by Truvativ who, presumably, would make decisions regarding warranty. At the end of his e-mail, he also said that if either Scheels or Truvativ weren't able to help me, I should contact him again and he would see what he could do.

That evening, I contacted Scheels, but they were still waiting to hear from their SCOTT rep. In the meantime, I posted my dilemma in the Wrenching forum. Folks there, particularly Wim, were very helpful but essentially confirmed what I had been dreading. Since the pedals were mine, I installed them, and had no way of proving that I had installed them correctly, I would be liable for the cost of the replacement.

Today, Scheels called and said they had spoken to their SCOTT rep and explained the situation. A new crank has been ordered and will be here in about 4 business days! I was stunned. They didn't have to take my word for what happened. They could have voided the warranty since my pedals and installation obviously weren't covered. But they didn't.

Based on what I've experienced thus far, I can't recommend SCOTT highly enough in terms of their service. E-mail responses have been quick (less than a day), pleasant and helpful. They have gone out of their way to fix problems they didn't have to fix.

I can't wait to get the bike back and really begin putting it through its paces. In the interim, the treatment that I have received from the company has made a lifelong customer out of me...


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## Opus51569

Since this looks like it's becoming more of an ongoing blog, and since I am passing the time until the replacement crankset arrives, I thought I would write a little about cycling in general. I promise I will get back to the Scott review as soon as I can.

It seems like I have always had a bike of some kind. My earliest childhood memories include riding in the driveway on a fall afternoon in Virginia, dodging the falling leaves.

By the early 80s, the family had moved to the suburbs of Pittsburgh. Behind our house was a park. Beyond the park was the first BMX track I had ever seen. Afternoons and weekends were spent watching guys doing things on bicycles that seemed to defy the laws of physics. And the language...the lingo: endos, berms, whoop-dee-doos, tabletops, gnarly, rad, Redline, Diamondback, Kuahara, Mongoose. If you know, you know. I was never quite one of them, though...I was a wannabe...always a little too afraid to hit that tabletop at full speed and just lay out. I saved and scraped and bought a red Puch from an LBS my brother worked at part time before he graduated to motorcycles. It was 1981, I had a $200 red Puch (rhymes with "book"), the Steelers had Bradshaw and Swann and Franco Harris and all was right with the world.

By the mid-late 80s we were in rural Missouri. The folks had bought a farm and I went from suburban punk to transplanted farm kid. I had outgrown the Puch and was riding a hand-me-down Schwinn cruiser that my brother had built. It was a 5 speed with a bar end "pinky" shifter. The best part, though was the rear wheel, where my brother had laced a motorcycle hub with a drum brake. The bike must have weighed 45 lbs but it would stop on a dime . Riding became about basic transportation. We lived 5 miles outside of town and a good mile from our nearest neighbor. There, I had my first and only experience riding while drunk. Coming home from a kegger. Riding along and suddenly feeling a sensation like I was floating...only to realize once I hit the ground that I wasn't floating...I was falling. I threw up on a Missouri State Trooper that night. He pulled me over for weaving recklessly on the road. After it happened, he turned away and said I had better not be there when he turned back around. I wasn't. To this day, I don't know why he didn't ticket me or arrest me, but thank you, kind sir, wherever you are.


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## Opus51569

*Bikes and me - part deux*

In college, bicycles continued to be all about transportation. I was lucky enough to always live off campus and commuted to and from classes. By the time I started my post-grad work I was married and had a son and we were living in Lincoln, NE. It was there, in the mid 90's that I really started to ride recreationally. Lincoln is a pretty nice biking town with both paved and well maintained gravel trails. I had a few professors who were in to biking and organized occasional weekend rides. A nice 20+ mile ride out to this little town whose name escapes me. There, we would fill up on pancakes before the ride back home. I started out still riding the Schwinn, which garnered more than a few laughs from the serious riders in the group. Bowing to peer pressure, as well as my inability to keep up on the Schwinn, I got rid of the cruiser (a move I regret to this day) and purchased a Trek 7000 mountain bike in 1996. It had a purple ZX aluminum frame that was bonded rather than welded. The difference was like night and day. Multiple chain rings. Faster. Lighter. I rode that bike everywhere.

My first job after finishing grad school brought me to Iowa. Here I continued to ride for recreation as well as transportation. Working up to longer and longer rides, now on almost exclusively paved roads and MUTs, I tried putting slicks on the Trek, and though it helped, I could never get the kind of speed or endurance out of my riding that I was looking for. I ended up selling the 7000 on eBay to pay for an XBOX 360 for our son for Christmas. By the following year, I had worked up the courage (and saved up the money) to take the plunge and give a true road bike a try. Frankly, I had always been a little intimidated by road bikes. Something about my Clydesdale body on those skinny little tires just seemed like a recipe for disaster. The Trek Pilot 1.0 I bought in 2006 changed my mind. The 28cm tires didn't feel too skinny. The upright geometry and the extra set of brake levers on the bars made the transition from the mountain bike pretty painless. That was 3 years and a little over 4000 miles ago. Next up...the RAGBRAI experience.


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## Opus51569

*Tangents and RAGBRAI*

Before I dive into the RAGBRAI experience, I should mention another, more tangential connection to cycling. My doctoral dissertation was on the life and writing of a man named Steve Tesich. Tesich and his family emigrated from the former Yugoslavia and he went on to have a successful writing career as a playwright and novelist before passing away from a heart attack in 1996. His greatest claim to fame, however, was as the writer of the screenplay for the movie Breaking Away for which he won an Academy Award in 1979. For those of you familiar with the movie, it is based in part on Tesich's own experience living in Indiana. He was an avid cyclist and raced in the Little 500 race depicted in the movie. Tesich also wrote the screenplay for American Flyers. I didn't decide to write about Tesich specifically because of his interest in cycling, but it's odd how the universe works, sometimes.

After purchasing the Trek in 2006, I decided to try riding RAGBRAI. The name is an acronym for the Register's Annual Great Bike Ride Across Iowa and is a yearly Iowa tradition. Each year, in the third week in July riders spend the week riding from one side of the state to the other.

For those who have never participated in a large group ride, it's difficult to explain what the experience is like. Imagine canoeing along a river of 10,000 cyclists of all shapes and sizes: professionals, to little old ladies, to kids, to Clydesdales like me, riding all manner of bikes: bmx, mountain, road, tandem, bent, homemade one of a kinds. I say it's like canoeing because from the moment you start on the road each morning until the moment you pull in to the stopover town for the night, you are continually surrounded by and in the company of other riders. At any point you can look behind you or up the road and see what appears to be a never-ending stream of fellow cyclists. It's simultaneously overwhelming and humbling. Each day's ride usually runs between 45 and 75 miles with small towns generally spaced every 10-20 miles. Each little town is like a small celebration of music and food and hospitality. Each of the larger stop-over towns is a bit like a county fair. 

I was nervous about RAGBRAI. Up to then, the longest single ride I had ever done was about 60 miles. That ride, in the middle of summer without properly maintaining fluids, ended with me nearly having a heat stroke. I started preparing as soon as I got the Pilot in September, putting in as many miles as possible that fall. When the weather was too cold, I rode a stationary bike in the basement. In the spring, I was back out on the trails and roads again. By the time July 2007 rolled around, I thought I was ready. I was ready...for the first day. The first days ride sailed by with no problems. I was running on adrenaline and the excitement of the first day. The second day was a little slice of Hell. I didn't take on enough fluids (both after day 1 and during day 2). By the time I pulled in to the stop-over town at the end of day 2, my muscles were cramping so badly I literally couldn't get off the bike. I had to pull to a stop, put my feet down, and stand there for 20 minutes before the charley-horses subsided enough for me to swing my leg over to get off the bike. I learned that evening to drink early and drink often. I learned to drink until I "peed clear". To be honest, though, I seriously considered abandoning the ride at the end of day 2. I decided to start day 3 and see what happened. Fully hydrated, though, I managed to finish day 3 and the rest of the week. Each day after that got progressively better. Coming in to the river valley at Bellevue at the end of the ride was an enormous downhill. I tucked in (as much as a Clydesdale "tucks") and started down. I took my eyes off the road just long enough to glance at the Cateye. I was doing 53mph and the only thought that kept running through my mind was "no turtle...no turtle...no turtle..." It's still the fastest I have ever traveled on a bicycle. 

If you've never rode RAGBRAI, you should. It's an amazing experience.


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## Opus51569

*The Waiting Is The Hardest Part*

Still waiting on the replacement cranks for the SCOTT. In the mean time, I moved the Odyssey Triple Traps back to the Trek. The Trek had been in the shop for a tune-up and a spoke replacement / truing. I got the bike back late last week and discovered a few things:

1.) Whoever worked on the bike didn't use gloves or clean their hands. There was schmutz all over the bars.

2.) When they reinstalled the rear wheel, they readjusted the brakes, but did so with the release lever for the brakes in the "open" position.

3.) The spoke they put on is silver, as opposed to the anodized black of the other spokes. No biggie. I'm sure they used what they had on hand. Looking at the spoke, though, it has much more exposed thread on it than the other spokes and the nipple is either shorter or it is pressed further up into the rim. I'm going to take the bike back and ask about this one. I don't know if the nipple is simply shorter (therefore okay) or if it is sticking up into the rim strip (not okay). 

None of these are huge issues, but taken all together and I start to question whether my next tune-up will be at the same LBS. I like them. Nice people. Usually a three-day turnaround for service. But this isn't the first time I have had to do a little fixing after their fixing.

Once I decided to switch the Triple Traps back to the Trek, I was in need of new pedals for the SCOTT. I knew I wanted platforms. So, I started looking around on the web. 

The main criteria for me were cost (I'm basically broke after buying the bike itself) and size. I wear either a size 12 or 13 EE shoe, depending on the brand. I tried searching for platforms specifically recommended for Sasquatches like myself but came across surprisingly little information. The usual suspects: Nashbar, Performance, Modern Bike, QBike, etc. weren't too helpful either. Lots of information on the pedal weight, but not the surface area. I finally narrowed it down to either a set of Diamondback pedals with square cages, or VP Beartrap pedals with rounded cages. I went with the Beartraps ($19.98 including shipping) hoping that the rounded cage would provide more surface area for the width of my feet.

The Beartraps arrived today and I think they are going to work out. The width looks good and, even though weight wasn't an issue, they are surprisingly light. Now, all I need is a bike to put them on.


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## Opus51569

*Time keeps on slipp'n, slipp'n, slipp'n...*

So, I hadn't heard anything from the LBS about the replacement cranks for the Speedster. I decided to call them on Tuesday to see what was what. The guy I talked to said he thought they might arrive today (Tuesday) and it would take a few hours to put them on. Cool. Well, Tuesday went, then Wednesday, then Thursday and still no word. This morning (Friday) I called and the guy I talked to said that they still hadn't received the cranks but he would check with the manager and "call me right back". That was at 9:30. By 12:30 there was still no call. So, once again I called. The guy I spoke to said that the original guy I had talked with earlier this morning was with a customer, but he promised he would call right back. He did. He then informed me that it can take up to two weeks for parts to come in. If you've been reading this thread up til now, you may recall that after I dropped off the bike, they said it would take four business days to get the parts. No one said anything about two weeks.

So, on the one hand, I'm p.o.'d that I am without the bike for at least another week. I'm also p.o.'d that the LBS doesn't seem to have its act together and each time I talk to someone I seem to get a different answer. 

On the other hand, though, I don't know how angry I can really be since they are covering the bike under warranty when they really didn't have to. At least, I think they are. Since I keep hearing different things from different people when i call, now I'm starting to worry that when I do finally get the bike back, they're going to say it wasn't covered and hand me a bill.


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## ROAD&DIRT

I would call up the LBS again and ask to speak with the manager... Go over everything again (_work to be and the expection of completion_) and even mention "this is still being covered under warranty right"

Get it all out and upfront now... rather than later, just my 2 cents


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## Opus51569

ROAD&DIRT said:


> I would call up the LBS again and ask to speak with the manager... Go over thing again (_work to be and the expection of completion_) and even mention "this is still being covered under warranty right"
> 
> Get it all out and upfront now... rather than later, just my 2 cents


That's a good 2 cents. Thanks. How is the S60 doing for you?


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## ROAD&DIRT

I like it lot... I've been on a few 45+ mile rides with it and feels great. The frame to me is as lite as hell and very responsive although It has some of the lower end componets on it. I hope to upgrade a few thing in future but for now I'm really enjoying the ride. 

it's my first road bike in about 15 years. Back then I was riding Schwinn steel framed


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## Opus51569

*Tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow...*

So, I have waited patiently and resisted the temptation to call the LBS on a daily basis to ask if the replacement crankarms had come in. I didn't want to be "that guy" who makes a PITA of himself. On the other hand, I didn't want the job to go to the back of the line because they hadn't heard from me and thought it wasn't a priority.

Yesterday (Friday), having still heard no word, I couldn't take it anymore. I called them a little after 9. The guy I spoke to gave me the "It can take up to two weeks" bit. I politely informed him that it had now been more than two weeks. He looked at the repair ticket and (I honestly think for the first time) realized that my bike had been sitting in his shop since August 4. So, he told me that he would contact SCOTT to see what was going on and "call me right back". If this sounds familiar, you've likely read my previous posts...

I called a little after 9. He said he would "call me right back". Six hours later and still no update, I decided to call back. Of course, I ended up talking to a different person. I explained the situation again. This guy told me that he thought the crankset had arrived in today's (Friday's) shipment, but that the store had received a large shipment and the guys on the dock were swamped getting everything unloaded. So, I asked him to please give me a call if and when he received the crankarm from the dock so that I would know that at least it had been shipped and was, in fact, here. He said he would. The store closed at 9PM...still no call.

So. It is now 7:41 on Saturday morning and I am sitting here writing this. The store will open in a few hours and I'll start this process over again. I'm still trying not to be "that guy" and I fully understand that the LBS has no control over how quickly something gets shipped to them. My only real complaint with them at this point is that if they say they will call me "right back", someone should call me within the next six hours to let me know what's going on, even if it's to say that the shipment didn't arrive.

I go back and forth about how I feel. Obviously, I am frustrated. I bought the bike back in July and didn't really have the chance to even start breaking it in yet (a few 20 milers) before all of this happened. On the other hand, the problem with the crank was covered under warranty which I feel was more than fair on the part of the LBS and SCOTT since I had no way of proving that all of this wasn't my fault in the first place. The LBS has done a lousy job of communicating with me through this process. But, they've got a lot of customers to deal with besides me and, as a warranty issue, I'm guessing I'm not a high priority on their list of things to do. While there is a part of me that would to do the whole "let me speak to the Manager" rant, I would like to establish a relationship with this place since there are the point of sale for the bike. Plus, for purely selfish reasons, I haven't received the free adjustment tune-up that is supposed to come with a new bike purchase (I haven't been able to ride the bike enough to begin stretching the cables).

Okay, enough whining and rambling. Hopefully today everything will work out.


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## Opus51569

*It's up...it's up...it's...no good..*

It's now 2:20 in the afternoon on Saturday. Let's see if this sounds familiar...

I called the LBS this morning to confirm that the crankset had actually arrived. I spoke with the manager who, as it turns out, is the same guy I spoke with yesterday morning. The same guy who said he would "call right back" when I talked to him at 9am, and hadn't returned the call by 3pm. Anywho, the manager (who we'll call Chris), said that the other guy I talked to yesterday must have been mistaken. The crankset wouldn't be arriving in a shipment to the store. It would be arriving as a direct shipment from SCOTT. And...you guessed it...it's still not there. So, what is Chris going to do? C'mon say it with me...

He's
going
to
call
the
SCOTT
rep
and
get
right
back
to
me

Yeah! In the meantime, I sent an e-mail to SCOTT updating them on the situation and asking if they knew what the hold-up was.


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## Opus51569

*So sad it's almost funny*

It's Tuesday evening and I still haven't heard back from Scheels...at least my local Scheels. I got an e-mail today out of the blue from the Scheels store in Appleton Wisconsin. It seems they had heard from SCOTT about a customer with a problem. A guy from the Appleton store contacted me understandably a bit confused since he had no record of either me or my bike. I explained that there must have been a mixup since I've never been to Wisconsin. He was very apologetic and actually very helpful. So now I've got Appleton on the case. He also put me in touch with a higher up at Scheels
to explain what has been going on. It made me wish I lived in Wisconsin 

Day 21 of Bike Seige 2009...more updates as they happen.


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## Opus51569

This afternoon (Wednesday) I received a call from the local Scheels. If you've been following along, yes, you read that last sentence correctly. Still no crankset, but at least they called to update me on what was going on. They now expect a new crank to arrive either tomorrow or Friday. With a little luck (hard not to type that word without laughing), the bike and I will be reunited by this weekend. The guy I spoke to did say that the original crankset, Truvativ elita, was no longer in stock and that they would be shipping an upgrade. I'm not sure what that might be, though.

Day 22 of Bike Seige 2009...


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## PJ352

I've been following along but (until now) have refrained from posting. Given your plight, I figured it best to 'yield the floor' to you.

In a way, this reminds me of my experiences with my Plymouth Laser. It's way too much to type, but suffice to say towards 'the end' it was in the dealers shop (well, parking lot) more than it was in my garage. I started feeling like the owner of some exotic sports car... or a Fiat!

But as you say, with a little luck you'll be on the road with your Scott before this weekend's out. One can only hope.


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## Opus51569

*Reunited....*

Had the message on the machine when I got home that I have been waiting nearly a month for. The bike was done and ready to be picked up. They asked me to bring the old pedals with me. I took those and the new bear traps I purchased as well. They looked at the old pedals (presumably to identify how they could have caused the problem). Finding nothing wrong with the pedals, they installed the new pedals, handed me my bike, and sent me on my way. No "sorry about the wait.". No, "here's a gift certificate for a tune-up." Nothing.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't expecting champagne and roses. But given that I had the bike for less than two weeks before it spent nearly a month sitting in their shop, I guess I was expecting a little more. They did install a different crankset. It's black instead of the grey of the original elita. I plan on posting pics in the near future.

For those of you, like PJ, who have been following along with this story, thanks. Bike Seige 2009 has come to an end. I look forward to getting back to reviewing the
Speedster which, once upon a time, was the purpose of starting this thread in the first place.


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## asad137

Glad you finally got your bike back after that long wait!

Asad


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## Opus51569

Getting back on the bike after nearly a month was, essentially, like starting over. Put in a nice 35 miles on Saturday morning. The only issue is a continuing problem with the front derailleur. When in larger gears in the back (23, 21), a shift from the 50 ring to the 34 ring caused the chain to jump off the 34 ring entirely on two separate occasions during the ride.

I posted the problem and question here in the forums. C-40 was kind enough to offer a step-by-step for resetting the F/D. I followed his advice and thus far, at least in the stand, it seems to have solved the problem. I am, however, now getting a bit of rub at the other end of the gearing spectrum 50/11. I'll try to make some adjustments to the outer limit to see if I can correct that. I could take the bike back to the LBS to have them adjust it. But given what I've been through thus far, you'll understand why I'm reticent to hand the bike over again.

Other than that issue, my second first-impression of the SCOTT was very favorable.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> Getting back on the bike after nearly a month was, essentially, like starting over. Put in a nice 35 miles on Saturday morning. The only issue is a continuing problem with the front derailleur. When in larger gears in the back (23, 21), a shift from the 50 ring to the 34 ring caused the chain to jump off the 34 ring entirely on two separate occasions during the ride.
> 
> I posted the problem and question here in the forums. C-40 was kind enough to offer a step-by-step for resetting the F/D. I followed his advice and thus far, at least in the stand, it seems to have solved the problem. I am, however, now getting a bit of rub at the other end of the gearing spectrum 50/11. I'll try to make some adjustments to the outer limit to see if I can correct that. I could take the bike back to the LBS to have them adjust it. But given what I've been through thus far, you'll understand why I'm reticent to hand the bike over again.
> 
> Other than that issue, my second first-impression of the SCOTT was very favorable.


Glad you're enjoying your new ride. Regarding the f/ der., there are essentially 5 'adjustments' that can be made and two of them aren't literally adjustments, rather, positioning. C-40 probably already went over this, so no need to rehash, but my point is that once you get those down and understand some of the der's. idiosyncrasies (read, sometimes ya gotta 'compromise' on the adjustments), there's really no need to visit the LBS. IME they have no magic cures.


----------



## Opus51569

I managed to sneak in another 20 miler on Sunday evening. The adjustments to the front derailleur have made a big difference. Not only did I not drop the chain, but I also gained a gear without a noticeable chain rub. Previously, I ran into some cross-chaining rub when running 50/21. Since the derailleur adjustment, that rub seems to have been alleviated. I still get it with 50/23 and 50/25, but I suppose that is to be expected.

I posted this question/observation elsewhere, but did not receive a reply. If anyone here has any feedback, I would appreciate it:

When the LBS replaced the crankset, they told me they didn't have any more Truvativ elitas in stock, and would substitute something different. The guy I spoke with said they were upgrading it to a better model. From what I can tell, they installed an SRAM S550 crankset (there aren't a lot of distinguishing marks on the cranks, but they look like S550 I have seen on websites). I don't know enough about components to know, is the S550 an "upgrade" over the elita?


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## StillRiding

After reading this whole thread, one thought comes to mind: learn how to work on your own bike.

My second thought is that you should find another bike shop. They've been totally screwing you over.


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## Opus51569

StillRiding said:


> After reading this whole thread, one thought comes to mind: learn how to work on your own bike.
> 
> My second thought is that you should find another bike shop. They've been totally screwing you over.


First off, thanks/condolences for having read the whole thread. Second, I have been learning some of the basics, just not fast enough, apparently. Until recently, I have only ever owned one bike, and was always a little intimidated about doing too much on it for fear of making whatever problem I attempted to fix, worse. Not to mention the money issue of purchasing parts/tools to attempt a fix. Screwing up the fix and having to pay the LBS the additional money to remedy the problem.

As for this particular LBS, I agree with the screwing-over part. I'll take my business elsewhere from now on.


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## Opus51569

*Warning: Speedster Porn*

I had promised to post some pics of the Speedster in its current state...

1.) Is the Speedster as I ride it, minus a bottle or two. Yeah, the seat bag is huge, but I'm a pack-rat, what can I say?
2.) Is a good close-up of the form of the top and down tubes. I don't know if the insets increase rigidity as SCOTT claims, but I do love the detail. It sets it apart from the typical round or oval tubes.
3.) A shot of the new SRAM cranks they installed as a result of Bike Seige 2009. I believe they are S550s. Is that an "upgrade" over the Truvativ elita?
4.) Longer shot of the drivetrain. 105 front and rear derailleur.
5.) Newb question: what is the little nub on the right seat-stay for? It's only on the right side.


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## Opus51569

*Warning: Porn Continues*

Some other shots...

6.) An arial shot of the flat top tube. The VP Bear Trap platform pedals and the toes of my Tevas, 'cause that's how I roll.
7.) I got the 56cm L frame and I'm glad I did. Even though I'm 5'9", I'm also a Clydesdale and I think the 54cm would have felt too small. By the by, those RACE 28 stickers on the wheels are the only thing that I don't like about the bike, aesthetically. The red just doesn't go with everything else. I plan to remove them at some point.
8.) Front-on view of the 105 brifters and bars. I like the white bar tape. We'll see how much I like it when it gets a bit greasier and I try to clean it.
9.) Reverse view. I like the placement of the cable adjusters just off the brifters.
10.) One last pic along the opposite side.

So, there's my Speedster.


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## PJ352

Nice bike! Ride safe and ride often! :thumbsup:

To answer your questions, IMO almost any crankset would be an upgrade over FSA's lower end (and some higher end) stuff. But on a (slightly) more objective note, the SRAM weighs less and costs about $50 more, so it's GOT to be better, right??

The little nub on the right seat stay is a chain hanger, for... well... hanging your chain when you need to remove the wheel. It helps to keep the chain from dropping and used to be on just about all bikes up to around the 90's. I guess they went by the wayside when all this less (weight) is more philosophy came into being. Nice touch, IMHO.


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## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> Nice bike! Ride safe and ride often! :thumbsup:
> 
> To answer your questions, IMO almost any crankset would be an upgrade over FSA's lower end (and some higher end) stuff. But on a (slightly) more objective note, the SRAM weighs less and costs about $50 more, so it's GOT to be better, right??
> 
> The little nub on the right seat stay is a chain hanger, for... well... hanging your chain when you need to remove the wheel. It helps to keep the chain from dropping and used to be on just about all bikes up to around the 90's. I guess they went by the wayside when all this less (weight) is more philosophy came into being. Nice touch, IMHO.


Excellent. The nub certainly had me curious. I thought it might be for a tap or computer of some kind, but couldn't figure out why it would be in that position. A chain hanger makes sense. Thanks, as always, for the knowledge.


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## Opus51569

*Clydesdales and potholes don't mix...*

Went for an afternoon ride before the Labor Day weekend got away. I was exploring some MUTs I hadn't been on before. Just under 40 miles round trip. Beautiful day, busy trails and a nice scenic ride.

On the return, I came around a corner and hit a pothole in the trail. It was more like a sinkhole, actually, where the pavement itself sunk into the hole, making it almost invisible until it was too late. BAM! (front wheel), BAM! (rear wheel). I literally yelled "S#!t" as I hit it (much to the dismay of the lady coming in the opposite direction with her child in tow).

I heard a loud "pop" as I hit the hole and my first thought, after the expletive, was "here we go again, back to the LBS". The sound was so loud, I was sure that I had broken something: fork, stay, a spoke at the very least. I pulled off the trail to inspect the damage. No visible problems. No cracks anywhere. The spokes were fine and the wheels still spun true. 

I got back on the bike and continued on... gingerly. Running over the usual bumps in the road, however, it sounded like there was a bit of a rattle coming from the headset, but, admittedly, I was pretty paranoid at that point listening for any little noise that might indicate trouble. The steering was fine, though, and I pressed on.

At home, I did a more thorough inspection. Still no visible signs of trauma. I took the allen wrenches to it and discovered that the headset was more loose than it should be. I snugged it down and that seems to have fixed the rattle at least for now. 

I'm going to keep the next few rides slow and close to home, though, just in case. In the meantime, I'm going to post in the Wrenching forum to see if the impact could have loosened the headset bolt or if its indicative of a larger problem.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> Went for an afternoon ride before the Labor Day weekend got away. I was exploring some MUTs I hadn't been on before. Just under 40 miles round trip. Beautiful day, busy trails and a nice scenic ride.
> 
> On the return, I came around a corner and hit a pothole in the trail. It was more like a sinkhole, actually, where the pavement itself sunk into the hole, making it almost invisible until it was too late. BAM! (front wheel), BAM! (rear wheel). I literally yelled "S#!t" as I hit it (much to the dismay of the lady coming in the opposite direction with her child in tow).
> 
> I heard a loud "pop" as I hit the hole and my first thought, after the expletive, was "here we go again, back to the LBS". The sound was so loud, I was sure that I had broken something: fork, stay, a spoke at the very least. I pulled off the trail to inspect the damage. No visible problems. No cracks anywhere. The spokes were fine and the wheels still spun true.
> 
> I got back on the bike and continued on... gingerly. Running over the usual bumps in the road, however, it sounded like there was a bit of a rattle coming from the headset, but, admittedly, I was pretty paranoid at that point listening for any little noise that might indicate trouble. The steering was fine, though, and I pressed on.
> 
> At home, I did a more thorough inspection. Still no visible signs of trauma. I took the allen wrenches to it and discovered that the headset was more loose than it should be. I snugged it down and that seems to have fixed the rattle at least for now.
> 
> I'm going to keep the next few rides slow and close to home, though, just in case. In the meantime, I'm going to post in the Wrenching forum to see if the impact could have loosened the headset bolt or if its indicative of a larger problem.


I suspect what happened was that the impact jarred the fork enough to shift the stem slightly higher on the steerer which, in turn, pushed the top cap (and probably the compression plug or star nut, depending) up slightly, causing the play. There's a possibility that the stem wasn't sufficiently tightened (which _may_ have prevented this), but that's conjecture. I say this because the top cap could literally be removed without affecting the bearing adjustment _as long as _the stem is sufficiently tightened, preventing any slippage.


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## ROAD&DIRT

Glad to hear your up and running... I have been following your post from the start. Nice pic's, I like the white and gray combo... mine's Gray and black.

I was wondering about the little nub too... thanks PJ :thumbsup:


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## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> I suspect what happened was that the impact jarred the fork enough to shift the stem slightly higher on the steerer which, in turn, pushed the top cap (and probably the compression plug or star nut, depending) up slightly, causing the play. There's a possibility that the stem wasn't sufficiently tightened (which _may_ have prevented this), but that's conjecture. I say this because the top cap could literally be removed without affecting the bearing adjustment _as long as _the stem is sufficiently tightened, preventing any slippage.


wim echoed this sentiment in the Wrenching forum. FBinNY is concerned that it could signal a problem at the junction of the steerer tube and the crown. I have disassembled and adjusted what I could and everything once again feels fine. If the rain holds off, I'll take it for a good spin this weekend to get a better idea of what shape it's in.


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## Opus51569

ROAD&DIRT said:


> Glad to hear your up and running... I have been following your post from the start. Nice pic's, I like the white and gray combo... mine's Gray and black.
> 
> I was wondering about the little nub too... thanks PJ :thumbsup:


Thanks. My Trek is black and, to be honest, I never would have considered a white bike before, but that combo really appealed to me. I find I spend more time wiping it down after a ride because _everything_ shows on it, but I don't mind too much 

Do you have pics posted of your Gray and Black? If so, feel free to toss them up here.


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## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> wim echoed this sentiment in the Wrenching forum. FBinNY is concerned that it could signal a problem at the junction of the steerer tube and the crown. I have disassembled and adjusted what I could and everything once again feels fine. If the rain holds off, I'll take it for a good spin this weekend to get a better idea of what shape it's in.


Yes, I've followed that thread as well. I'm a little surprised that no one mentioned the stem bolts, but it might fall under the realm of 'too obvious to see'. 

I also saw your last post asking about any remaining issues without disassembling the fork completely. I think you're fine, because if the race wasn't seated properly or there were any remaining issues with alignment of parts, you wouldn't be able to adjust the headset correctly. You'd go from looseness in one fork position to binding in another. If it moves freely without play or binding, you're good! :thumbsup:


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## Opus51569

I took the bike for a nice 40 mile ride this morning on a combination of MUT and local roads. This was the first ride since the pothole/headset incident and I'm pleased to report that all seems to be well. No more play in the headset. The bike handled well and there are no more extraneous noises. In hindsight, I'm guessing the pothole amplified an already slightly loose headset. Yet another reason why I'm seriously considering forgoing the free tune-up offered by the LBS rather than letting them do anything to the bike again. 

The only mechanical issue on today's ride was a significant squeal when I engage the front brakes. I think the issue is partly due to the brake pads still breaking-in and partly due to my inability to read and follow directions. I won't go into all the details here as I have posted about this elsewhere already. Suffice it to say that I finally got around to removing the Alex Rims RACE 28 stickers from all over the rims and GooGone and tire rubber do not mix  I think my attempt to clean up the mess may have left some residue on the front rim which contributed to today's brake squeal. Once I got home, I checked the pads and cleaned the braking surface of the rim thoroughly. We'll see if that took care of the problem.

A note about the compact crank. With my initial rides on the bike, I have to admit I was starting to doubt my decision to go with the compact crank over the triple. The previous problems I encountered with dropping the chain off the 34 didn't help matters much. With the F/D adjusted and almost 200 miles on the Speedster now, I think I am getting used to the change in shift patterns and the bike itself is starting to break in a bit more. The combination made for a very smooth ride today. I rarely found myself in the wrong gear and shifts are getting crisper and cleaner.

In my earlier reviews I had mentioned the difference in the relative stiffness of the bike over the Trek Pilot I also ride. I find now that I get out of the saddle more with the Speedster and have an easier time holding a decent speed/tempo or, when the legs feel good, even accelerating up short climbs. I know this is as much psychological as physiological, but I "feel" faster on the bike which, in turn, makes me want to ride faster.

As far as comfort goes, I am starting to think that either a high-rise or even an adjustable stem might be in my future. On my last two rides I've encountered a bit of numbness particularly in my right hand. I think my reach on the bike is just a little too long (I catch myself with my elbows locked out) and my weight pitched a bit too far forward. I would try adjusting the saddle, but it is already as far forward as it will go and as low as I can comfortably make it. If anything, the saddle should probably be slid back and raised a few centimeters to put me in a better pedaling position. Therefore, I would like to try moving the bars up and slightly back, instead, to see if this helps. The stock stem is, I believe, 0 degree and 110mm. An angled (17 - 40 degrees) and slightly shorter (90 or 100mm) stem should make a big difference.


----------



## ROAD&DIRT

Opus51569 said:


> Thanks. My Trek is black and, to be honest, I never would have considered a white bike before, but that combo really appealed to me. I find I spend more time wiping it down after a ride because _everything_ shows on it, but I don't mind too much
> 
> Do you have pics posted of your Gray and Black? If so, feel free to toss them up here.



I do have some pics on the computer at home, will dig them up and post.... How do the wheel looks with out the stickers? I was thinking of doing the same but was worry about the residue (glue) that would be left behind and it collecting road dirt when riding


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## Opus51569

ROAD&DIRT said:


> I do have some pics on the computer at home, will dig them up and post.... How do the wheel looks with out the stickers? I was thinking of doing the same but was worry about the residue (glue) that would be left behind and it collecting road dirt when riding


The sticker story is a long one. The short version is that the stickers peeled off easily. There was some residue but after misusing GooGone, I ended up using WD-40 and it removed the residue just fine. No more stickiness, no dirt either.

As for the new look, I like it. The old stickers were a bit much and the red really didn't match anything else on the bike. Without the stickers, the rims do look pretty nondescript, but I think that just accentuates the frame more. Down the road, when it's time for a tire change, I think I might look in to a set of silver or gray striped tires in keeping with the overall theme.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> I took the bike for a nice 40 mile ride this morning on a combination of MUT and local roads. This was the first ride since the pothole/headset incident and I'm pleased to report that all seems to be well. No more play in the headset. The bike handled well and there are no more extraneous noises. In hindsight, I'm guessing the pothole amplified an already slightly loose headset. Yet another reason why I'm seriously considering forgoing the free tune-up offered by the LBS rather than letting them do anything to the bike again.
> 
> *The only mechanical issue on today's ride was a significant squeal when I engage the front brakes. * I think the issue is partly due to the brake pads still breaking-in and partly due to my inability to read and follow directions. I won't go into all the details here as I have posted about this elsewhere already. Suffice it to say that I finally got around to removing the Alex Rims RACE 28 stickers from all over the rims and GooGone and tire rubber do not mix  I think my attempt to clean up the mess may have left some residue on the front rim which contributed to today's brake squeal. Once I got home, I checked the pads and cleaned the braking surface of the rim thoroughly. We'll see if that took care of the problem.
> 
> A note about the compact crank. With my initial rides on the bike, I have to admit I was starting to doubt my decision to go with the compact crank over the triple. The previous problems I encountered with dropping the chain off the 34 didn't help matters much. With the F/D adjusted and almost 200 miles on the Speedster now, I think I am getting used to the change in shift patterns and the bike itself is starting to break in a bit more. The combination made for a very smooth ride today. I rarely found myself in the wrong gear and shifts are getting crisper and cleaner.
> 
> In my earlier reviews I had mentioned the difference in the relative stiffness of the bike over the Trek Pilot I also ride. I find now that I get out of the saddle more with the Speedster and have an easier time holding a decent speed/tempo or, when the legs feel good, even accelerating up short climbs. I know this is as much psychological as physiological, but I "feel" faster on the bike which, in turn, makes me want to ride faster.
> 
> *As far as comfort goes, I am starting to think that either a high-rise or even an adjustable stem might be in my future. On my last two rides I've encountered a bit of numbness particularly in my right hand.* I think my reach on the bike is just a little too long (I catch myself with my elbows locked out) and my weight pitched a bit too far forward. I would try adjusting the saddle, but it is already as far forward as it will go and as low as I can comfortably make it. If anything, the saddle should probably be slid back and raised a few centimeters to put me in a better pedaling position. Therefore, I would like to try moving the bars up and slightly back, instead, to see if this helps. The stock stem is, I believe, 0 degree and 110mm. An angled (17 - 40 degrees) and slightly shorter (90 or 100mm) stem should make a big difference.


A couple of thoughts re: brake squeal and fit issues.

I've found that denatured alcohol and a rag or paper towels works very well on the rims and pads. If the pads glaze over (most do) remove them and either sand them or (my preference) use a flat metal file 'sanding' in an up/ down motion. Clean with the alcohol after sanding. Also, to minimize brake squeal, toe in the front of the pads slightly. You want the front of the pad to contact the rim before the middle and rear.

Fit issues:
I'm not sure if you mentioned being fitted to your bike at the LBS. I know you don't hold them in very high regard, but I was just curious. With the info you've posted, it's hard to pinpoint the causes, but I suspect there are a combination of things causing you problems with fit (thus my question).

Hand numbness, as you might guess, can be caused by excessive pressure on your arms and hands. The remedies would include changing hand position periodically to relieve pressure, and also readjusting the saddle. You mentioned that it was all the way forward, which generally speaking isn't right and this adjustment shouldn't be used to correct for reach issues - stem length and angle will do that. 

If you haven't done so already, I would readjust the saddle to a KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) position, but before doing so, check you saddle height, measuring from center of BB to top of saddle (along the seat tube), noting that number . Along with the KOPS adjustment, either level the saddle or tip the front up slightly. Once these two adjustments are made, recheck saddle height. 

Once saddle adjustments are made you can better assess your reach on the bike. If you are getting neck/ shoulder/ back pain, your reach and/ or bar height may need adjusting. This is a good reference:
http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html

Last, but not least, it may just be that what appear to be fit issues really are nothing more than your first 40 mile ride on a new bike, but still, your saddle position just doesn't seem right.


----------



## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> A couple of thoughts re: brake squeal and fit issues.
> 
> I've found that denatured alcohol and a rag or paper towels works very well on the rims and pads. If the pads glaze over (most do) remove them and either sand them or (my preference) use a flat metal file 'sanding' in an up/ down motion. Clean with the alcohol after sanding. Also, to minimize brake squeal, toe in the front of the pads slightly. You want the front of the pad to contact the rim before the middle and rear.
> 
> Fit issues:
> I'm not sure if you mentioned being fitted to your bike at the LBS. I know you don't hold them in very high regard, but I was just curious. With the info you've posted, it's hard to pinpoint the causes, but I suspect there are a combination of things causing you problems with fit (thus my question).
> 
> Hand numbness, as you might guess, can be caused by excessive pressure on your arms and hands. The remedies would include changing hand position periodically to relieve pressure, and also readjusting the saddle. You mentioned that it was all the way forward, which generally speaking isn't right and this adjustment shouldn't be used to correct for reach issues - stem length and angle will do that.
> 
> If you haven't done so already, I would readjust the saddle to a KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) position, but before doing so, check you saddle height, measuring from center of BB to top of saddle (along the seat tube), noting that number . Along with the KOPS adjustment, either level the saddle or tip the front up slightly. Once these two adjustments are made, recheck saddle height.
> 
> Once saddle adjustments are made you can better assess your reach on the bike. If you are getting neck/ shoulder/ back pain, your reach and/ or bar height may need adjusting. This is a good reference:
> http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html
> 
> Last, but not least, it may just be that what appear to be fit issues really are nothing more than your first 40 mile ride on a new bike, but still, your saddle position just doesn't seem right.


If cleaning the rims didn't solve the squeal issue, sanding and alcohol on the pads was going to be my next step.

As for the saddle, no, the LBS didn't offer a fitting when I purchased the bike. That probably should have been my first clue. 

I have tried shifting hand positions as often as possible, but I find once the hand goes numb initially, shifting positions only provides relief for a few minutes before the numbness creeps back again.

I know that part of the problem, also, is that I am a Clydesdale and am, thus, putting even more overall weight on my arms and hands than a smaller rider would.

Regarding seat position, I have lowered the saddle height to move my center of gravity back off my hands a bit. The tops of my thighs still angle downward at the top of the pedal stroke, though, and I haven't encountered any knee pain, so I don't think I have dropped the saddle too low yet. The saddle angle has always been perfectly parallel to the ground. I've found that angling the nose up even a little, puts a too much pressure on the naughty bits on longer rides. As for fore/aft, I agree that sliding the saddle so far forward is not good, but until I can scrape together the dough for a shorter (and probably high-rise) stem, it is the best solution I could think of. It does place my knees forward of the KOPS position but, again, not enough to cause any noticeable strain on the knee yet.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> If cleaning the rims didn't solve the squeal issue, sanding and alcohol on the pads was going to be my next step.
> 
> As for the saddle, no, the LBS didn't offer a fitting when I purchased the bike. That probably should have been my first clue.
> 
> I have tried shifting hand positions as often as possible, but I find once the hand goes numb initially, shifting positions only provides relief for a few minutes before the numbness creeps back again.
> 
> I know that part of the problem, also, is that I am a Clydesdale and am, thus, putting even more overall weight on my arms and hands than a smaller rider would.
> 
> Regarding seat position, I have lowered the saddle height to move my center of gravity back off my hands a bit. The tops of my thighs still angle downward at the top of the pedal stroke, though, and I haven't encountered any knee pain, so I don't think I have dropped the saddle too low yet. The saddle angle has always been perfectly parallel to the ground. I've found that angling the nose up even a little, puts a too much pressure on the naughty bits on longer rides. As for fore/aft, I agree that sliding the saddle so far forward is not good, but until I can scrape together the dough for a shorter (and probably high-rise) stem, it is the best solution I could think of. It does place my knees forward of the KOPS position but, again, not enough to cause any noticeable strain on the knee yet.


Two clarifications. I forgot to mention Scotch Brite (or some no name brand) no scratch pads along with the denatured alcohol to clean the rims. I said rags or paper towels, although they're fine for cleaning the pads (before/ after sanding).

Second..
Too high or too low saddle height causes knee pain, and generally speaking, saddle height has a single purpose and remains constant, so be careful of making adjustments to it. Saddle tilted down (I know you don't have your positioned this way) or level and/ or saddle too far forward can shift weight to the front, thus my suggestion to recheck KOPS. My gut says if you kept the saddle level and relocated it to KOPS or just (5 mm's) behind, that would ease your hand numbness.

Disclaimer: My gut isn't _always_ right!


----------



## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> Two clarifications. I forgot to mention Scotch Brite (or some no name brand) no scratch pads along with the denatured alcohol to clean the rims. I said rags or paper towels, although they're fine for cleaning the pads (before/ after sanding).
> 
> Second..
> Too high or too low saddle height causes knee pain, and generally speaking, saddle height has a single purpose and remains constant, so be careful of making adjustments to it. Saddle tilted down (I know you don't have your positioned this way) or level and/ or saddle too far forward can shift weight to the front, thus my suggestion to recheck KOPS. My gut says if you kept the saddle level and relocated it to KOPS or just (5 mm's) behind, that would ease your hand numbness.
> 
> Disclaimer: My gut isn't _always_ right!


I'll give it a shot. Intuitively, it seems like moving the seat back will stretch me out further, but I see where that might transfer more weight to my shoulders and less to the hands. It's certainly worth a try.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> I'll give it a shot. Intuitively, it seems like moving the seat back will stretch me out further, but I see where that might transfer more weight to my shoulders and less to the hands. It's certainly worth a try.


Yes, moving the saddle back _will_ extend reach, but it will also shift your weight to the rear (literally) - sit bones. You'll still need to adjust your reach and/ or bar height with a new stem, so until then you make a choice and compromise. 

The moral of the story is each adjustment has a purpose and making an incorrect adjustment to 'fix' a fit issue could generate another fit issue, if you follow me. IMO that link I provided offers some very useful info for bike setups.

BTW, take what I offer as a good faith effort to assist. In no way am I attempting to press you to make any adjustments you don't feel comfortable making.


----------



## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> Yes, moving the saddle back _will_ extend reach, but it will also shift your weight to the rear (literally) - sit bones. You'll still need to adjust your reach and/ or bar height with a new stem, so until then you make a choice and compromise.
> 
> The moral of the story is each adjustment has a purpose and making an incorrect adjustment to 'fix' a fit issue could generate another fit issue, if you follow me. IMO that link I provided offers some very useful info for bike setups.
> 
> BTW, take what I offer as a good faith effort to assist. In no way am I attempting to press you to make any adjustments you don't feel comfortable making.


Understood. I am all about the comfort, so if the change doesn't improve the numbness issue, or trades it for something worse, I'll move it back until I can get a new stem or find an alternate solution. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Opus51569

I spent a little time this evening working on the bike. I took PJ352's advice and adjusted the seat height up slightly and back a bit from it's far forward position.

I also adjusted the front brake pads, toeing them in a bit. A few laps around the driveway and no more squealing brakes thus far. 

The weekend I am planning my longest ride yet with the Speedster. The combination of MUTs and road should make for 40+ miles out and 40+ back. I haven't ridden this particular route in quite a while so it should prove to be a good test for both me and the bike. The last time I did, I managed to take the photo below. I was zipping along the trail and saw this view out of the corner of my eye. I remember slamming on the brakes and nearly crashing out  I liked the way the branches surrounding the view in the distance form the shape of a heart.


----------



## PJ352

I hope the adjustments work for you. IME, near optimal fit is an illusive target requiring tweaks along the way, so I'd be more comfortable if you got some saddle time in before your 80 mile jaunt. Wouldn't be a bad idea to bring a couple of allen wrenches along as well.

Beautiful shot, BTW. :thumbsup:


----------



## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> I hope the adjustments work for you. IME, near optimal fit is an illusive target requiring tweaks along the way, so I'd be more comfortable if you got some saddle time in before your 80 mile jaunt. Wouldn't be a bad idea to bring a couple of allen wrenches along as well.
> 
> Beautiful shot, BTW. :thumbsup:


Thanks. Way ahead of you on the allen wrenches. They are one of the many things I carry in that oversized seat bag. True also about "optimal fit" as the body changes from day to day and sometimes hour to hour. Part of the plan for the 80 miler is to make a tweak if necessary and have sufficient time to really gauge if it helped. We'll see how it goes.


----------



## Opus51569

*74.95 miles of fun...mostly*

A fantastic day on the bike today for the most part. Left the house around 8am and rode a combination of MUTs and roads. Trails were in great shape. The weather was beautiful. Encountered a number of swarms of gnat-like bugs bordering on a biblical plague, but hey, free protein.

The Speedster performed flawlessly. The steering continues to be tight. Shifts remain clean. I have a little over 200 miles on the bike since getting it back from the crankset replacement in August and everything seems to be broken in nicely. There is no more problem with cross-chaining. With the 11-25 cassette, I can now ride 50/23 or 34/12 if necessary with no rubbing on the F/D. Wheels are holding true despite my size, some good sized potholes, and a relatively low spoke count (20 front, 24 rear). Once I adjusted the toe on the front brakes, the previous squealing issue is now a thing of the past. The brakes grab nicely.

Today's ride did confirm my suspicions that I will need to purchase a new stem in the future, particularly before I attempt this long of a ride again. After almost 75 miles, understandably, my legs are tired, my butt is a little sore, my back is a little stiff, but my hands (specifically the base of each palm at the wrist) just plain hurt. 

I had adjusted the seat up slightly and back significantly before the ride to basically reset to a closer KOPS position and in the hopes of taking some pressure off my hands. The first 10 miles or so went pretty well. After that, the numbness started, followed by an aching pain. I tried changing up hand positions as often as possible but once the pain started, nothing helped. The last 10 miles I felt like I was moving my hands every other minute trying to find some position that would provide some relief. I ended up taking a shortcut on the ride back.

In this case, it's not the bike. It's me. I have come to the realization that my combination of weight and short reach place too much pressure on my hands with the 0 degree 110mm stem that is standard on the bike. With the saddle in the correct position, it sits several inches above the level of the bars. This is, of course, as it probably should be for riders who are 170lbs., in good shape, and comfortable riding in a more aero position. For me, though, it just doesn't work. Maybe someday, but not now. I'll be looking for an angled stem (40 degrees perhaps) with a length of 100 or maybe even 90mm. 

So, that's the ride report. Hands, aside, it was an excellent day overall on the bike. With the bad experience with the LBS behind me, I am very pleased with the performance of the Speedster thus far.


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> I have come to the realization that my combination of weight and short reach place too much pressure on my hands with the 0 degree 110mm stem that is standard on the bike. With the saddle in the correct position, it sits several inches above the level of the bars. This is, of course, as it probably should be for riders who are 170lbs., in good shape, and comfortable riding in a more aero position. For me, though, it just doesn't work. Maybe someday, but not now. I'll be looking for an angled stem (40 degrees perhaps) with a length of 100 or maybe even 90mm.
> 
> So, that's the ride report. Hands, aside, it was an excellent day overall on the bike. With the bad experience with the LBS behind me, I am very pleased with the performance of the Speedster thus far.


Aside from the continuing hand pain, I'm glad you enjoyed your ride and are happy with your bikes performance.

The saddle adjustments were meant to better position your weight (and reset your knees to KOPS), but I always thought you'd be looking at a less aggressive, shorter stem.

I doubt yours is now a 0 degree, more likely a -6 or -8 degree, so you might want to try flipping it up, making it a +6 or +8. It won't change reach much, but it will raise the bars. I guessed at a couple of things, so don't hold me to these numbers, but I calculated about 7 mm's shorter reach and 22 mm's higher.

Those estimates are based on a +6 degree/ 110 mm stem, 73 degree HT angle and 30 mm's of spacers. May be worth a shot till you can swing a shorter stem. Plus it'll give you some saddle time to see if the drop is to your liking.


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## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> Aside from the continuing hand pain, I'm glad you enjoyed your ride and are happy with your bikes performance.
> 
> The saddle adjustments were meant to better position your weight (and reset your knees to KOPS), but I always thought you'd be looking at a less aggressive, shorter stem.
> 
> I doubt yours is now a 0 degree, more likely a -6 or -8 degree, so you might want to try flipping it up, making it a +6 or +8. It won't change reach much, but it will raise the bars. I guessed at a couple of things, so don't hold me to these numbers, but I calculated about 7 mm's shorter reach and 22 mm's higher.
> 
> Those estimates are based on a +6 degree/ 110 mm stem, 73 degree HT angle and 30 mm's of spacers. May be worth a shot till you can swing a shorter stem. Plus it'll give you some saddle time to see if the drop is to your liking.


Yeah, I was hoping a saddle change might have delayed the inevitable, but not in this case. And for shorter rides it's not really an issue, occasional numbness, but no real pain.

As for the current stem, I am basing the 0 degree mostly on the look of it. If you have a moment, could you scroll down to the pics I posted previously of the bike and take a look. The stem is in a few of the shots. I am guessing 0 because the angle of the stem currently is parallel to the ground, but that doesn't take in to account the angle of the head tube, so you might be right about the angle.

Thanks, as always, for the input.


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## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> Yeah, I was hoping a saddle change might have delayed the inevitable, but not in this case. And for shorter rides it's not really an issue, occasional numbness, but no real pain.
> 
> As for the current stem, I am basing the 0 degree mostly on the look of it. If you have a moment, could you scroll down to the pics I posted previously of the bike and take a look. The stem is in a few of the shots. I am guessing 0 because the angle of the stem currently is parallel to the ground, but *that doesn't take in to account the angle of the head tube*, so you might be right about the angle.
> 
> Thanks, as always, for the input.


You answered your own question. The stem looks to be about parallel with the ground but the HTA is 73. Here's a way to visualize it. If you were to hold just the fork/ steerer at a 90 degree angle to the ground, a zero degree stem would be parallel to the ground. Another way to think of it is, it's effectively a 90 degree stem, if you follow me. Any deviation from the 90 becomes + or - (plus raises, minus lowers). So given that, when assembled, the stem is about parallel, it's actually got a + (from zero) angle. I'm guessing +6 degree, but it might be +8. The stem may have some markings or indication on it.

All that aside, it doesn't really matter if it's a +6 or +8. If you're uncomfortable and can't swing a new stem, flipping the current one is a good solution. In fact, before shelling out the $$, I'd give it a shot. You might like it!


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## Opus51569

I flipped the stem and, while it is still below the level of the saddle, I have gained some elevation. Now I just need to find the time for a test ride to see what kind of impact it has (or doesn't have) on the hands...


----------



## PJ352

Opus51569 said:


> I flipped the stem and, while it is still below the level of the saddle, I have gained some elevation. Now I just need to find the time for a test ride to see what kind of impact it has (or doesn't have) on the hands...


I'd guess you've upped the bars about 2 cm's and brought them closer by about* .*5 cm's. I agree that a test ride (of some duration) is the only way to know for sure, but I wish I had thought to mention measuring from ground to center of bars before and after, just to have a baseline for comparison.

Good luck with this. I'd be interested to know how it progresses..


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## Opus51569

PJ352 said:


> I'd guess you've upped the bars about 2 cm's and brought them closer by about* .*5 cm's. I agree that a test ride (of some duration) is the only way to know for sure, but I wish I had thought to mention measuring from ground to center of bars before and after, just to have a baseline for comparison.
> 
> Good luck with this. I'd be interested to know how it progresses..


No worries. For me it's more about the feel than the numbers. Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll update once I've put some miles on the new setup.


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## Opus51569

*2010*

I was hesitant to take a look at the new Speedsters for 2010. I like my '09 and didn't want to find that the new S30s were now all Ultegra and priced $100 less than what I paid. I just took a look at the new Speedster S30 on the SCOTT website. I have to say my reaction was mixed.

I like my current gray/white color scheme but I must admit the new model is a very nice shade of blue.

The price did drop significantly for the new S30 - MSRP is now $1099 down from $1379 last year. But the new model is also a little heavier and now sports Tiagra F/D and brifters. The '09 model had 105s for both.

The most significant change, though, looks to be in the tubing. It's hard to tell from the pics on the SCOTT site, but it looks as though they may have abandoned the flat top tube with the embossed details on the top and down tubes, in favor of a more traditional looking oval. I could be wrong, but that's the way it looks. If that's the case, I'm really glad I bought mine when I did. That detail sets my bike apart from most of the other aluminum frames on the road and is one of the things that kept me coming back to that particular bike.

All in all, for the $1100 I paid for mine (with tax) it's nice to feel like I still got a pretty good deal.


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## Opus51569

*Stem Flip = Success*

I still have some miles to go before it's official, but I had time this morning for a quick 20 miles and I can already feel a marked improvement in my hands after flipping the stem. At the end of the 20 I was just starting to feel some tingling, but moving to the bar flats (which are now a bit higher and closer) alleviated it. 

Even if this doesn't solve the problem entirely, it should make longer distances comfortable enough that a new stem is no longer an immediate priority. I'll still be on the lookout for a decent 90mm angled stem on clearance somewhere, though, but it's nice to know I can take the bike for longer walks in the meantime. 

Thanks again, PJ352 for the suggestion.


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## Opus51569

*You're only a daaaaay...aaaaa....waaaaay....*

A bad week for cycling. Rain early in the week. Too many hours at work and busy around the house in the middle part of the week. Rain again Thursday, Friday and early this morning. Skies are clearing now and hopefully tomorrow will offer the right mix of dry conditions and free time to allow me to finally get back on the roads and trails.

I haven't had any time on the bike since the 20 miles I managed last weekend after flipping the stem. Speaking of which... 

I am generally comfortable in my newbness regarding cycling, but I still feel like a tool for not seeing how simple a fix that was. Here I was lamenting my position on the bike, doing internet searches pricing high-rise and adjustable stems, and all the time a solution was literally staring me in the face. Five minutes with an allen wrench and viola! It's a bit like wearing your shoes on the wrong feet for a month and not understanding why your feet are always sore...  Oh well...live and learn, I suppose.

For those of you who have read this thread up till now, I have a "what would you do" question for you.

I have well over 200 miles on the Speedster now which means it is due for the free tune-up/adjustment offered by the LBS. Given the saga of Bike Seige 2009, however, I am a bit conflicted.

On the one hand, I'm cheap and it's free. Plus, I'm guessing there are a certain amount of adjustments the LBS could make regarding cable stretch, etc. that might be beneficial. They could also do little things like install the two missing cable tips on the FD and rear brake cables that were never put on the bike in the first place.

On the other hand, given my encounters thus far with the LBS, I don't relish the thought of leaving the bike with them again. Plus, the bike seems to be running pretty flawlessly at the moment. The classic "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" gambit.

So, what would you do?

Take the bike in now?
Take the bike in later?
Stay as far away from the LBS as possible?

Are there warranty issues to consider? I know for some bikes, regularly scheduled maintenance or check-ups are required to maintain the warranty status.

As always, thoughts and advice are much appreciated.


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## PJ352

Glad the stem flip is working for you. And stop beating yourself up over not knowing about the solution. Retrospect is 20/20, as they say and IMO you're a pretty quick study, which leads me into my opinions on your questions.

I tried to offer an informed response to you regarding any warranty repercussions of NOT taking your bike in for a tune up, but Scott's site told me to refer to my owners manual. Seeing as I don't own a Scott (nor do I have an owners manual), I'll have to leave that task up to you, but I highly doubt passing on the tune up will affect your warranty.

IMO, if your bike is running ok now, I'd pass on the tune up and maybe over the next few months start dabbling in some aspects of bike maintenance. IIRC, you're in Ohio, so there's likely times you can't or just don't ride, so that'll give you some time to learn. 

I've always done all I could on houses, cars, bikes, etc., and whenever I started to fret over 'what could go wrong' I always tempered it with 'what's the worst that can happen'. IMO if you start doing more of your own maintenance, the worst that could happen is you have to trudge off to some LBS and ask them to fix what you didn't. Not really a big deal. And actually, I'd bet against that happening, because considering you've got a new bike, the more involved aspects of maintenance/ repairs shouldn't be needed for some time, and by then you will have built some confidence. Lastly, there's a wealth of knowledge on this forum, so if you have any questions or concerns, just post them and members will assist.

That's my 2 cents.


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## TucsonMTB

PJ352 said:


> I tried to offer an informed response to you regarding any warranty repercussions of NOT taking your bike in for a tune up, but Scott's site told me to refer to my owners manual. Seeing as I don't own a Scott (nor do I have an owners manual), I'll have to leave that task up to you, but I highly doubt passing on the tune up will affect your warranty.
> 
> IMO, if your bike is running ok now, I'd pass on the tune up and maybe over the next few months start dabbling in some aspects of bike maintenance. IIRC, you're in Ohio, so there's likely times you can't or just don't ride, so that'll give you some time to learn.


Sage advice. :thumbsup: A quick check of the manual that came with my Addict shows that Scott only requires annual check ups by your dealer to maintain the warranty. By the way, the manual is generic covering all 2009 models including mountain bikes. 



PJ352 said:


> I've always done all I could on houses, cars, bikes, etc., and whenever I started to fret over 'what could go wrong' I always tempered it with 'what's the worst that can happen'. IMO if you start doing more of your own maintenance, the worst that could happen is you have to trudge off to some LBS and ask them to fix what you didn't. Not really a big deal. And actually, I'd bet against that happening, because considering you've got a new bike, the more involved aspects of maintenance/ repairs shouldn't be needed for some time, and by then you will have built some confidence. Lastly, there's a wealth of knowledge on this forum, so if you have any questions or concerns, just post them and members will assist.
> 
> That's my 2 cents.


More sage advice, in my not so humble opinion.


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## Opus51569

I took a look at the standard owners manual (I had to find the .pdf online as the LBS never provided one). TucsonMTB is correct, I found that the initial tune up isn't mandatory, but a yearly tune-up by an authorized SCOTT dealer is required to maintain the warranty. If I don't take it in once a year, my warranty automatically drops from 5 years to 3 years.

So, I think I will probably skip the freebie adjustment. Fortunately, there is another SCOTT dealer not too far from me, so I'll probably give them a try when it comes time for the first-year tune-up.

Please allow this post to serve as my official notice/apology for bugging folks in the Wrenching forum somewhere down the road...


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## Opus51569

*More Craptacular Weather...*

The rain seems to be perfectly timed to those days when I actually have some time to get in a ride. The weekend looks relatively dry but, believe it or not, the first snow flurries are already in for forecast by Sunday. 

I thought I would take this opportunity to update on some of the known issues/fixes that have taken place thus far.

1.) Brake squeal - since toeing in the front pads, all is quiet on the braking front...

2.) Front derailleur/chain drop - after disconnecting, adjusting and reconnecting the FD, there have been no issues. Shifts are smooth and clean in all gear combinations.

3.) Cross-chaining - I think this was a case of my impatience. Now that the bike has had time to break in properly, I can run in 50/23 all the way down to 34/12 with no rub. Only the extremes of 50/25 and 34/11 will produce an audible rubbing sound. No complaints there.

4.) Headset - after tightening the headset following the pothole incident, everything seems to be tight and quiet.

5.) Stem flip - I don't have many miles yet on the bike since the flip, but the rides I have managed have been noticeably more comfortable for the hands.

Overall, I am amazed with how quiet the bike has become now that everything has broken in. I hear the tires on the road now and that's pretty much it. It's almost unnerving, but in a good way...


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## Opus51569

*Decal-less wheels*

A while back I had promised to post a pic of the Alex Race 28s sans decals. Here they are. While it loses some of the "bling" factor, overall, I like the understated look more. Once I've worn out the Hutchinson Equinoxes that came with the bike, I wouldn't mind putting on a gray or a gray striped tire just to set the wheels off a bit more.


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## asad137

Need another whole bike shot without the wheel decals so we can get the 'big picture' 

Asad


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## Opus51569

I'll see what I can do. It may have to wait until the weather clears, which lately seems like it might not be until sometime in March . I managed to get in a short ride this afternoon but it was threatening rain the entire time and it's starting to come down now.


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## Opus51569

*Naked rims*



asad137 said:


> Need another whole bike shot without the wheel decals so we can get the 'big picture'
> 
> Asad


BAM! I included the earlier shot with the decals for a before/after view.


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## TucsonMTB

Opus51569 said:


> BAM! I included the earlier shot with the decals for a before/after view.


*Nicely done!* But, your original decals / labels were *not* bad looking. If you want to see something worth removing, check out the Neuvation decals that were on the wheels I purchased. Ewwww!  










Here we are with most of the decals removed.


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## Opus51569

Thanks, and maybe it doesn't show up well in the pic, but the Race 28 stickers were not only huge, but also had red running through them, which didn't really match anything else on the bike. They were a bit loud given the relatively monochromatic scheme elsewhere on the bike.

I like how you kept the "N" symbol for the Neuvation rims on your bike, though. Just enough to set the rims off without the decal overload of the original rims. Did you ditch your stock seat as well, or is that the one that came on the bike?


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## TucsonMTB

Thanks for the kind words.  

The saddle and post are indeed replacements for the awkward-to-adjust, standard post . . . and for the heavy, uncomfortable-for-me, orginal saddle. The combination probably dropped 100 grams (based on manufacturer's numbers). More important, it is very comfortable for longer rides.


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## ROAD&DIRT

Opus51569 said:


> Thanks. My Trek is black and, to be honest, I never would have considered a white bike before, but that combo really appealed to me. I find I spend more time wiping it down after a ride because _everything_ shows on it, but I don't mind too much
> 
> Do you have pics posted of your Gray and Black? If so, feel free to toss them up here.



Better late than never, the shots aren't all that great but here are few few pic's of my S60. I have since changed out the stock SCOTT saddle and replaced it with a gray and black VELO with the center cut.

View attachment 181647


View attachment 181648


View attachment 181649


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## Opus51569

ROAD&DIRT said:


> Better late than never, the shots aren't all that great but here are few few pic's of my S60. I have since changed out the stock SCOTT saddle and replaced it with a gray and black VELO with the center cut.


Very nice! More and more I'm starting to appreciate a subtler monochromatic color scheme. I like the shades of gray on gray you have there. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't refuse a new Pinarello if someone offered it, but after a while, they just start to hurt my eyes a little.

It looks like they did a much nicer job joining the seat-tube/top-tube/seat-stay junction on your frame than they did on mine. Mine has a bunch of slag around the seam.

Nice looking bottle cages, too. :thumbsup: 

Thanks for posting the pics.


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## PlatyPius

So.... did you get to ride your bike more before winter set in?
(Where are you located, anyway?)

I picked up Scott as my #2 brand without having even seen anything other than an Addict before. I'm glad I did. The 2010 Speedsters are amazing!

Once the store starts making money and I can actually start paying myself, I think I'll get myself a CR1 Elite.


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## Opus51569

Sadly, only one last 20 miler out and back before the snow hit. 

I'm in Iowa and we got 17 inches last week that is still hanging around and they are predicting another big storm just before Christmas. This weekend I was planning to give the bike a good once-over and officially hang it up for the winter.

I am still a big fan of the Speedster. I think it's a great bike for the money. My only peeve is the cosmetic one I mentioned before with the slag on the weld at the junction of the seat tube/top tube/seat stays. Compared to how clean the rest of the bike is (the hydro-formed tubing, the seamless junction of top tube/down tube/head tube, etc.) that slag stands out, especially having lived with the bike for a while now. Hopefully, your 2010s have a cleaner weld. 

Other than that, I am extremely pleased with the bike. It's light, responsive and the 105 group has been performing flawlessly after the initial break-in and adjustments. I still think it's the best all-around bike out there in that $1000 - $1200 price range. 

Glad to hear you're carrying them at your store. I hope business is good so you can buy that CR1  Toss up a pic here of the Speedsters on your showroom floor when you get a chance.


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## PlatyPius

S30 (blue) and S50 (red)


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## ROAD&DIRT

Nice looking rides... I'm a fan of the speedsteer too. I have been riding the S60 since April of this year and love it.


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## Opus51569

Outstanding! Both colors are very sharp. Good to see you've got your brand on them, also.  From the pic with the shop in the background, it looks like things are progressing there nicely. Are you selling on the web? Do you plan to? It would be nice to throw some business where I know it will only be used for good, never for evil.


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## re-cyclist

Hey everyone. I have an 09 Speedster S30 with a few upgrades including Neuvation M28 wheels, SRAM Force 53/39 crankset, and a more cushy Specialized saddle. Love this bike! I was looking at the new 2010 Speedster models in the LBS the other day and I noticed that they have seams between the top tube and head tube, and the down tube and head tube, where these joints on the 09 model are seamless. Does anyone know why Scott made this change? I thought it looked cooler without the seams, and there must be a reason for the switch.


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## PlatyPius

Don't know what "seams" you're talking about...

The 2010s that I have in the shop have a smooth weld between tubes.


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## re-cyclist

There is no visible weld at the top tube/head tube and down tube/head tube junctions in the '08 and '09 Speedster frames, which leads me to believe the top, head, and down tubes are formed from a single piece of aluminum tubing.

Edit: I googled "Speedster" and "head tube" and found some info that suggests there may be a tendency for the '08 and '09 Speedster frames to develop head tube cracks. Here is a thread that discusses the problem. Maybe this is why the head tube on the '10 frame is different. I'm going to take a very close look at my head tube tomorrow.


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## PlatyPius

If they were, there's probably a good reason they stopped doing it. Either it wasn't as strong as they hoped, or it cost too much. Probably the latter.

The welds are very smooth, which indicates a much higher level of finishing work than many other frames. It's almost Cannondale-level finishing.

The entire line-up has apparently changed for 2010, with models moving down-line a little bit. There is no S60 this year, and the S50 has Sora components. Retail on the S50 is around $770. The S30 is $1050 (what I'm charging....retail is a little higher) and has Tiagra and 105.


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## Opus51569

re-cyclist said:


> There is no visible weld at the top tube/head tube and down tube/head tube junctions in the '08 and '09 Speedster frames, which leads me to believe the top, head, and down tubes are formed from a single piece of aluminum tubing.
> 
> Edit: I googled "Speedster" and "head tube" and found some info that suggests there may be a tendency for the '08 and '09 Speedster frames to develop head tube cracks. Here is a thread that discusses the problem. Maybe this is why the head tube on the '10 frame is different. I'm going to take a very close look at my head tube tomorrow.


Thanks for posting the thread link. Since I didn't have the chance to put too many miles on the frame before winter hit, I'll definitely be keeping an eye on the head tube. So far, so good on my '09 S30, though.


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## McTufferton

A little late to the party, but thought I'd chime in with a few things. 

First of all, I'm sorry about the delay w/ your LBS. I had to warranty a Shimano wheel off a Speedster S20. I was given a replacement wheel to use by my LBS (for whom I race) while Scott warrantied the original wheel. The whole process took about 3 weeks. Based on your LBS' handling of the situation though, it sounds like you're justified in the decision to take your business elsewhere from now on. 

Second, as indicated by the last paragraph, I ride / race a 2008 Speedster S20 w/ 105. It's a great looking frame with a nice component mix at a price below comparably equiped bikes. The hydroformed aluminum creates some very nice shapes / bends resulting in a frame that's very eye catching. Add to that finish work that is top notch. The only downsides I have found (after more than 6,000 miles in 1.5 yrs) is that the ride can be brutal at times and I can feel the bottom bracket flex when really mashing in a sprint. Neither of which have held me back... just observations. 

I hope you enjoy your bike. 


McT


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## TucsonMTB

*Nice!*

Nice Scott, McT!

Posts like yours make me realize how great it would have been if bikes like yours had been available a quarter century ago when I raced in USCF events. :thumbsup: 

Here's wishing you the best of success in your racing!


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## ROCA RULE

i am wondering why the ditched to older fork desing. the new one looks to bland.


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## McTufferton

TucsonMTB said:


> Nice Scott, McT!
> 
> Posts like yours make me realize how great it would have been if bikes like yours had been available a quarter century ago when I raced in USCF events. :thumbsup:
> 
> Here's wishing you the best of success in your racing!


1. Thank you. 

2. "Steel is Real" right?  

3. Thanks again.


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## Opus51569

Indeed, nice pics. Glad you posted them. I'm also glad to hear your S20 is still going strong even under race conditions.


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## Opus51569

*Winter upgrades*

I don't know if it's a reaction to the endless cycle of snow (another 4-7 inches forecast for tomorrow evening) or the fact that Uncle Sam saw clear to pay back the 0% interest loan I've been giving him for the past year, but I thought this would be a good time for a few upgrades on the Speedster:

1.) I have been wanting to try an adjustable stem to get a bit more rise and bit less reach on the bars. Thanks to a link posted by frdandc, I found a deal on a Ritchey adjustable stem for $40 and change. The price was too good to pass up, so I ordered a 100mm. The stem arrived and is now on the bike. I'll post updated pics soon. I was impressed with how solid the adjusting mechanism on the Ritchey stem felt. It uses internal locking cogs to hold the stem in place once you set the appropriate angle. It's definitely heavier than the stock Scott stem it is replacing, but weight isn't really an issue for me. I'm curious to see what kind of a difference it makes in the overall comfort level of the bike and how much of an effect it might have on the handling. 

One element of the installation that I didn't anticipate was that with the angled stem raising the bar height, it is also putting more tension on the shift and brake cable housings. I'll have to wait until the snow clears (May, perhaps?... July?) to get it on the road to see if this effects the ride as well.

2.) I purchased two sets of Kool Stop salmon pads and installed them. The stock pads were still in good shape (I put them on my Trek commuter to replace the pads there that were almost shot) but I've heard nothing but good things about the improvement Kool Stops make in overall stopping power, so it seemed like a good $13 investment. Installation of the pads on the rear brake went off without a hitch. The front brakes were easy to install, too, but with the limited clearance provided by the front fork, you have to remove the front wheel to be able to squeeze the brake arms enough to slide the brake pads past the inside of the forks. Not a problem, just an extra step in the process.

As with them stem change, I'll post what changes, if any, the Kool Stops make.


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## Opus51569

*Stem pics*

Below are updated pics with the new stem. Before you mock the extreme angle,  know that I just put it there as a starting point. I'll have to get it out on the road for a while to determine what the most comfortable angle might be. The dirt on the bar tape is another story...


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## PlatyPius

Opus51569 said:
 

> Below are updated pics with the new stem. Before you mock the extreme angle,  know that I just put it there as a starting point. I'll have to get it out on the road for a while to determine what the most comfortable angle might be. The dirt on the bar tape is another story...


Bah. Who cares what anyone else says about your stem. (not C()dE)


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## TucsonMTB

PlatyPius said:


> Bah. Who cares what anyone else says about your stem.


+1 I'm sure you are happier than the guys I see around here riding upright bikes because of back injuries or whatever. Me and my Scott (Addict) look very different than you on yours, except for the big smile on my face that I suspect resembles yours. 









Winters are a little milder here in Tucson.


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## Opus51569

PlatyPius- thanks. The new angle has brought the bars much closer to the seat height, which is more of what I'm used to. We'll see how it goes.

TucsonMTB- My first reaction when I saw your pic was "nice bike". My second reaction was "what's that green stuff on the right side of your picture"? Oh yeah, that's a plant....


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## ROAD&DIRT

PlatyPius said:


> Bah. Who cares what anyone else says about your stem. (not C()dE)


I echo the sentiment...

... who cares what others think, if it's good for you then so be it.


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## Opus51569

*Adjustable stem = initial success*

Took the Trek out for a short ride this morning. Just got back from a nice 20 miler on the Speedster. This was my first ride since installing the new Ritchey stem. The stem itself was rock solid, even with my Clydesdale self out of the saddle. Being the first ride after a looong winter, comparisons with the old stock stem are difficult, but the extra height and shorter reach to the bars seemed to take a lot of pressure off my hands (which was the motivator for wanting to swap out the stem in the first place). I was also pleased with how little the handling of the bike changed. Again, it's been a while, but the handling today felt smooth and solid, not at all "twitchy". So far, so good. It was nice to be back on the road again, even if it was for only a day. The forecast for tomorrow is for rain changing to snow...:mad2:


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## Opus51569

*2nd ride of the year*

Went for a nice ride today. Temps in the mid 50's. Gusty NNE wind.

So far, so good with the new Ritchey stem. Handling continues to be good. The extra bar height and shortened reach definitely make the ride more comfortable for my "geometry". 

I have posted elsewhere about an oddity involving the 50/11 gear combo that I think is now fixed. At the end of today's ride I heard/felt a loud "pop" from the drivetrain. I got the bike home and tried to find the cause. The only thing I could find is that the rear wheel did not appear to be perfectly centered between the stays. I made the adjustment, but I'll have to wait to see if that's fixed the problem.

As for other changes to the bike, I swapped the Terry Cite Y seat on the Speedster with the "Gelissimo" version of the Cite Y I had on the Trek. Of the two, I think the Gelissimo is more comfortable and though I ride the Trek more often as a commuter, I definitely spend longer outings in the saddle riding the Speedster.

More to come, including the homemade stand I rigged up.


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## Opus51569

*Stand and Cable Housing*

Please forgive the cross-posting with the Components & Wrenching forum, but I didn't know if the info might be of interest there as well.

1.) As promised, here is a pic of the homemade bike stand I rigged up. I used some scrap wood and tubing from an old set of crutches. The hand grips on the crutches hold the base of the rim nice and snug without damaging the metal.

2.) After installing the adjustable stem, it seems like the extra height of the bars had really stretched the housings for the shifter cables. The second pic is what the stretch looked like. I was about to ask for opinions on the C&W forum when I noticed that the brifters looked like they were both canted to the outside, the right side even more than the left. I visited the Shimano techdocs site to look at how the brifters are clamped on. 

By the way, for anyone with Shimano components, I highly recommend the techdocs site. It has PDFs with diagrams of components and instructions on adjustments and operation. Very handy. 

Anywho, I adjusted both brifters inward and that took a lot of the tension off the housings and brought the brifters in line with the bars.

I don't know if the brifters have shifted position over time, or if they've always been in that position. If its the latter, it brings home the point of not taking things for granted when inspecting and working on the bike. With as much time as I spend on the hoods, maybe some of the hand pain I had been experiencing was caused by the brifter position. I look forward to the next ride to see what difference, if any, the change has made.


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## PlatyPius

Gotta have the hoods level with the bar or my hands freak out...


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## Opus51569

PlatyPius said:


> Gotta have the hoods level with the bar or my hands freak out...


They were level, just not parallel. I might not have caught it at all if they had been canted to the outside to the same degree, but the drive-side was noticeably further outboard than the non-drive-side. It really makes me wonder if they've been that way since the bike was built up and I just never noticed. When I made the adjustment, neither one seemed loose.


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## Opus51569

Went for a beautiful 35 miles today. Started at home and rode to a bar downtown. New Belgium was sponsoring a fun ride and the prospect of free beer is an offer I couldn't refuse.

I am increasingly impressed with the Kool-Stops. Nothing fancy, they just work really well. It's hard to describe, but when I engage the brake, I don't hear or feel the pads rubbing against the rim. I just feel the grip of the pads bringing the bike to a stop.

From the stem, I'm getting a bit of creaking but I haven't isolated whether its coming from the junction of the stem and bars, the stem and steerer tube or possibly the cable stops on the head tube. I'll need to do a solo ride so I can listen and try to isolate the sound.

As for the stem itself, the bar position continues to be comfortable compared to where it was. I have less pressure on my hands and have been able to ride for longer periods in the drops. The biggest obstacle at this point, is me. I'm thinking a little less gut would make the drops that much more comfortable.

Last, but not least, I had my first flat on the new bike today. Coming home from the ride, the rear wheel hit a pot hole. About a 1/4 mile down the road, the back end of the bike started to feel squirrelly. I thought I might have blown a spoke or worse, had a crack in the frame. I pulled to the side and was relieved to see it was just the tire. And as flats go, it could have been worse. I was about a 1/4 mile from home.

So, aside from the flat and a bit of creaking it was an excellent ride. The bike continues to perform well.


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## PlatyPius

Amelia had a flat on our group ride tonight. Same thing. The road is really torn up (think: reverted to gravel) in one area, and that's where she flatted. I got to give an impromptu course on flat repair.

Meanwhile, my Scott is making me more happy every time I ride it. The geometry is just perfect.


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## TucsonMTB

Opus51569 said:


> Went for a beautiful 35 miles today. Started at home and rode to a bar downtown. New Belgium was sponsoring a fun ride and the prospect of free beer is an offer I couldn't refuse.


 :thumbsup: 



Opus51569 said:


> From the stem, I'm getting a bit of creaking but I haven't isolated whether its coming from the junction of the stem and bars, the stem and steerer tube or possibly the cable stops on the head tube. I'll need to do a solo ride so I can listen and try to isolate the sound.


A bit of un-needed advice I am sure, but . . . pull the stem and grease clamping points at both the steerer and the bars with a good quality grease. If it's not easy to grease the adjustable joint on the stem itself, try spraying a little silicone in that area, otherwise grease is the answer. At least it has been the answer during the decades I have been riding.  I no longer try to isolate the exact location, especially on my wife's bike. I just reach for the Campy grease.  



Opus51569 said:


> So, aside from the flat and a bit of creaking it was an excellent ride. The bike continues to perform well.


Congratulations! Now that spring is here . . . life is good.


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## Opus51569

TucsonMTB said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> A bit of un-needed advice I am sure, but . . . pull the stem and grease clamping points at both the steerer and the bars with a good quality grease. If it's not easy to grease the adjustable joint on the stem itself, try spraying a little silicone in that area, otherwise grease is the answer. At least it has been the answer during the decades I have been riding.  I no longer try to isolate the exact location, especially on my wife's bike. I just reach for the Campy grease.
> 
> 
> Congratulations! Now that spring is here . . . life is good.


Thanks, Tucson, I will give that a try. I have a tube of the green Park grease which should work.


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## Opus51569

PlatyPius said:


> Amelia had a flat on our group ride tonight. Same thing. The road is really torn up (think: reverted to gravel) in one area, and that's where she flatted. I got to give an impromptu course on flat repair.
> 
> Meanwhile, my Scott is making me more happy every time I ride it. The geometry is just perfect.


Yeah, I was a wuss and walked the 1/4 mile home. I figured by the time I got the flat fixed on the road, I could be in my garage drinking a beer and changing it out.

Did you post a pic somewhere of your new ride? I remember the thread where you decided if you were selling Scotts you should be riding one...but I don't remember if there was artwork attached. If not, post it up


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## PlatyPius

Opus51569 said:


> Yeah, I was a wuss and walked the 1/4 mile home. I figured by the time I got the flat fixed on the road, I could be in my garage drinking a beer and changing it out.
> 
> Did you post a pic somewhere of your new ride? I remember the thread where you decided if you were selling Scotts you should be riding one...but I don't remember if there was artwork attached. If not, post it up


*cough*

Well, you know I don't like showing off my bikes, shop, or anything like that....


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## Opus51569

*budget blings*

Snuck in a nice 20 miler after dinner tonight. Speaking of which, seafood salad and cycling don't necessarily mix  Ever have one of those moments where you don't actually get sick, but think you might be better off if you did... yeah, kinda like that...

Otherwise, the bike and the ride was a blast. A bit of a headwind (20mph) on the way home. With the newly elevated bars, though, I found that I could ride in the drops much more comfortably and for a longer distance than I ever had before. Let's not kid ourselves, I'll never have a perfectly flat back on the bike...unless I'm in the process of falling off it...but I'd say I can get down to a 15 or 20 degree angle in relative comfort. Childs play for most folks, but a big deal for me.

As for the budget blings, an LBS was having a sale and I picked up two new bottle cages and two Polar water bottles. The cages are Bontrager and made of a white composite. The Polars are...well...Polars in white and gray  The set of bottles and cages was a total of $30. Not a bad deal, I thought. On the ride tonight, I was very happy with the way the cage gripped the bottle. No spills, no launching. I'll post a revised pic soon.


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## Opus51569

PlatyPius said:


> *cough*
> 
> Well, you know I don't like showing off my bikes, shop, or anything like that....



BAM! Outstanding! I like the monochromatic with the red accents. Classy, with a subtle nod to the red which, as we all know, makes the bike automatically faster.

Are those mini panniers on the top tube? I don't think I've ever seen those before.


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## PlatyPius

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RED-Bike-Bi...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3efec8e1f6


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## Opus51569

I agree with the eBay...that is a smart choice 

I can't tell from the angle of your picture, but if the top tube on your CR1 is flat on top like the 09 Speedster, I bet the bag rides particularly well.


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## lucascarvajal

*My Speedster s40 2010*

qwerty


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## Opus51569

Very nice! Thanks for posting the pic. Yeah, I'd make sure I was out on a ride when the mail comes


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## lucascarvajal

*New upgarde*

my new wheelset shimano ultegra :cornut:


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## PlatyPius

Why are there SO many people riding around with their brake releases in the incorrect position? Do they use them as parking brakes?


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## lucascarvajal

> Why are there SO many people riding around with their brake releases in the incorrect position? Do they use them as parking brakes?


actualy that pic was taken just after i swap the wheels, i had to adjust the calipers because the ultegra are little bit wider. y ride with my calipers in the close possition.
do you feel better?[


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## PlatyPius

lucascarvajal said:


> actualy that pic was taken just after i swap the wheels, i had to adjust the calipers because the ultegra are little bit wider. y ride with my calipers in the close possition.
> do you feel better?[


I assumed that actually. The picture just prompted the question, though, since I see lots and lots of bikes come in that have been set up that way. There's one shop in Indy that always sets them up backwards, rendering the release lever useless.


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## TucsonMTB

PlatyPius said:


> I assumed that actually. The picture just prompted the question, though, since I see lots and lots of bikes come in that have been set up that way. There's one shop in Indy that always sets them up backwards, rendering the release lever useless.


Yeah.  In my local bike shop, there is one sales guy who moved here from Indianapolis, is a very knowledgeable guy in most other respects, but tells people with a straight face about this "great parking brake trick."

So far, I have managed not to laugh while he is telling some newbie about it.


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## Opus51569

*Now, with less dork...*

I pulled the bars, cleaned the stem threads, applied grease, and reinstalled. I've gotten one ride in since then and so far, so good.

Here's a pic of the new Bontrager cages.

And last, but certainly not least, I have finally succumbed to the peer pressure. The dork disk is no more. So, feel free to start the pool betting on how long it will be before I find a way to overshift and toss the chain into the spokes... 

Next up on the possible bling list - Deda Elementi tape comes in a shade called Olympic Gold. From the pictures, it looks like it matches the gold accents in the Speedster frame really well. Do I dare sport a set of gold bars, though???


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## Opus51569

lucascarvajal said:


> my new wheelset shimano ultegra :cornut:


I have to say, I've been pleased with the Alex Race 28s. As a Clyde, I was a little concerned about the lower spoke count 20/24. Thus far, though, they have proven to be remarkably sturdy.

Let me know how the Ultegras treat you.:thumbsup:


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## TucsonMTB

Opus51569 said:


> I have finally succumbed to the peer pressure. The dork disk is no more. So, feel free to start the pool betting on how long it will be before I find a way to overshift and toss the chain into the spokes...


On the betting sheet, I want the block marked with an infinity symbol. As the wanna be gangsters say, "Ain't gonna' happen."  



Opus51569 said:


> Next up on the possible bling list - Deda Elementi tape comes in a shade called Olympic Gold. From the pictures, it looks like it matches the gold accents in the Speedster frame really well. Do I dare sport a set of gold bars, though???


With all the style points you picked up by "losing the disk" you should be able run any color tape you like. :thumbsup:


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## lucascarvajal

*New upgrades*

Shimano pro vibe round handlebar
Cane creek zero stack headset
Shimano 105 pedals
Of course new handlebar...new bar tape fizik micotex, this time i got it without fizik logos.


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## Opus51569

Those are some dead sexy upgrades, lucascarvajal. I particularly dig the white stem.

Tucson: I started a thread soliciting opinions about the gold Deda tape. Someone posted a pic of a bike with either the same or similar tape and it didn't look as good as I thought. So, I ordered some Profile Design tape in black/gray/white splash instead. I'll post an updated pic once I have it installed.


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## TucsonMTB

Cool! I will be watching for your picture. I looked for the thread you mentioned, but did not find it. I once saw a bike on eBay with gold tape and was not particularly impressed, but it might have looked great in person. That said, black, gray, and white should be much more practical.


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## ROAD&DIRT

lucascarvajal - Nice upgrades, lets also see a pic of the whole bike with the new goods.... :thumbsup: 

I too recently purchased some new upgrade for my 09 SPEEDSTER, but still in the process of putting them on the bike. will post pics soon to share


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## lucascarvajal

i just order a new ultegra 6700 group (shifters,crankset,brakes,bb,cassette f/d,r/d) and dura ace chain , once installed ill post some pics!!!


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## PlatyPius

2010 Scott Speedster S30 the way it SHOULD have been spec'd....


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## TucsonMTB

Nice color! My 2009 Addict R4 came with the Rival group. I like it a lot.


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## Opus51569

lucascarvajal said:


> i just order a new ultegra 6700 group (shifters,crankset,brakes,bb,cassette f/d,r/d) and dura ace chain , once installed ill post some pics!!!


I think you've now spent more on upgrades than I spent on my bike. . Looking forward to the pics.


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## Opus51569

*Where are the bars? They're camouflaged *

Okay. Here's the new tape. I like it. It's eye-catching yet still works with the other colors in the bike.


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## lucascarvajal

*Here Are The Pics!!!*

:ihih: OK guys here are my pics... lots of people asked me why a aluminum frame???
well i broke a gary fisher mtb carbon frame not once but twice "warranty frame"
so fu*%& the carbon fiber at least for my experience i wont buy another one
i pick the scott speedster s40 because of the color, now little by little i upgraded the way i want it, at the end the only oem parts i have from my scott its the frame and the forlk. :ihih:
BARTAPE FI'ZI'K MICROTEX
HANDELBAR SHIMANO PRO VIBE "ROUND"
SHIFTERS SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6700 "CARBON"
STEM RITCHEY WCS
HEADSET CANE CREEK INTEGRATED
SEATPOST FSA SLK "CARBON"
SADDLE FI'ZI:K ARIONE K:IUM RAILS
SEATPOST CLAM FSA "CARBON"
BRAKES SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6700
CANKSET SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6700 COMPACT 50/34
CASSETTE SHIMANO ULTEGRA 11-25
CHAIN SHIMANO DURA ACE
FD AND RD SHIMANO ULTEGRA
PEDALS SHIMANO 105
BOTTLE CAGES SHIMANO PRO FIBEGLASS
RIMS AND HUBS SHIMANO ULTEGRA 6700
TIRES CONTINENTAL GRAND PRIX 4000


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## Opus51569

Very nice! Your S40 has become an S10+. The first pic (at the end of the bed) officially makes it bike p0rn


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## lucascarvajal

ill be more as scott speedster Slucasistheman


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## superg

Thanks for taking the time and the initiative to create this thread. I am putting money together to buy a Speedster s30, and I found a lot of useful info here.
Also I noticed you changed the seat to something more "aerodynamic".
Ride long and prosper.


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## Opus51569

You're welcome. I'm glad to know it's been helpful. I see a lot of threads about "entry level" bikes and it seems the same names keep coming up: Specialized, Trek, Giant, Cannondale. Not that those aren't all fine bike makers, but after almost a year, I still think the Scott was the right choice for me and has been a great bike for the money. 

The seat in that latest picture is actually the stock Scott seat that came on the bike. I swapped it back out for the Terry I had on there as a little experiment to see if it was any more comfortable (i.e. if I had gotten more used to the bike). I was surprised by how good it felt, so I'm leaving it on for now. I think it's a little too narrow for my sit bones, but until I can afford something in the 143-155mm range it will do.

Keep me posted when you get your Speedster. I look forward to pics and ride reports.


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## Opus51569

I just ordered a Sette APX seatpost (my birthday present). It's aluminium, white, and has a 0 degree setback. It should look nice on the bike but, more importantly, it should allow a little more flexibility in the saddle adjustment. Currently I have the saddle positioned all the way forward on the stock Scott post. I'm hoping the 0 degree will allow me to go slightly further forward without maxing out on the rails. As always, I'll post a pic and update once it's on the bike.


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## PlatyPius

Opus51569 said:


> I just ordered a Sette APX seatpost (my birthday present). It's aluminium, white, and has a 0 degree setback. It should look nice on the bike but, more importantly, it should allow a little more flexibility in the saddle adjustment. Currently I have the saddle positioned all the way forward on the stock Scott post. I'm hoping the 0 degree will allow me to go slightly further forward without maxing out on the rails. As always, I'll post a pic and update once it's on the bike.


I have to order something as well, although it wouldn't really be right for me to have a Sette. My saddle is also all the way forward. It's the price I pay for having short-ass femurs.


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## TucsonMTB

You may also wish to consider the Bontrager Race X Lite Seatpost. My wife's has a 5mm offset and came standard on her Lemond Zurich. To achieve her desired seat position, we reversed it giving just a little more movement forward. It looks just fine and is easy to adjust. As a bonus, it is surprisingly light. Your mileage may vary, but it works well for us.


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## Opus51569

PlatyPius said:


> I have to order something as well, although it wouldn't really be right for me to have a Sette. My saddle is also all the way forward. It's the price I pay for having short-ass femurs.


Would it not be "right" because you don't carry them in the shop?

BTW..if we ever form a gang, I suggest we call ourselves the "Short-Ass Femurs".


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## superg

Aaaargh ! The wait is killing me. For nearly a week now me getting my bicycle delivered to the store of (almost) my choice is "In process"...I tried to time it so it would happen this week, while I'm on vacation, but chances are getting slimmer by the hour...


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## PlatyPius

superg said:


> Aaaargh ! The wait is killing me. For nearly a week now me getting my bicycle delivered to the store of (almost) my choice is "In process"...I tried to time it so it would happen this week, while I'm on vacation, but chances are getting slimmer by the hour...


What did you order?
Scott, as well as almost every other manufacturer, is almost completely "bike-less" at the moment. Due to the recession and low sales last year, everyone kept orders from Asia at the bare minimum. Then we recovered somewhat and people want bikes and parts, but there aren't any.


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## PlatyPius

Opus51569 said:


> Would it not be "right" because you *can't *carry them in the shop?
> 
> BTW..if we ever form a gang, I suggest we call ourselves the "Short-Ass Femurs".


fixx0red.


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## superg

A Speedster s30. And the status just changed to "Shipped"...


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## PlatyPius

superg said:


> A Speedster s30. And the status just changed to "Shipped"...


Yeah, they have lots of Speedsters in stock....

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr><td><table><tbody><tr><th> 
</th> </tr> <tr> <td> <table height="86" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td height="20"> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Available</td> <td>:</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Price</td> <td>:</td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="XXS47"> XXS47 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr0 = new Array(); var atpDateArr0 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 19</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 19</td> --> <td>Qty : 19</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr0.push("19"); atpDateArr0.push("05/19/2010"); </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <script type="text/javascript"> //alert(0); focusFieldIndex="0"; //document.getElementById("qty[0]").focus(); </script> <script type="text/javascript"> focusFieldArr.push("0"); </script> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="XS49"> XS49 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr1 = new Array(); var atpDateArr1 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 73</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 73</td> --> <td>Qty : 73</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr1.push("73"); atpDateArr1.push("05/19/2010"); </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="S52"> S52 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr2 = new Array(); var atpDateArr2 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 100</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 100</td> --> <td>Qty : 100</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr2.push("100"); atpDateArr2.push("05/19/2010");  </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="M54"> M54 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr3 = new Array(); var atpDateArr3 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 100</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 100</td> --> <td>Qty : 100</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr3.push("100"); atpDateArr3.push("05/19/2010"); </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="L56"> L56 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr4 = new Array(); var atpDateArr4 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 100</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 100</td> --> <td>Qty : 100</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr4.push("100"); atpDateArr4.push("05/19/2010"); </script>  <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th style="" title="XL58"> XL58 </th></tr> <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr5 = new Array(); var atpDateArr5 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 72</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 72</td> --> <td>Qty : 72</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr5.push("72"); atpDateArr5.push("05/19/2010"); </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr></tbody></table></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <table><tbody><tr> <th title=""> </th> </tr> <tr> <td> <table height="86" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td>Available </td> <td> :</td> </tr> <tr> <td height="20"> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td>Price </td> <td> :</td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> <td><table><tbody><tr><th title="2XL61"> 2XL61 </th></tr>  <tr> <td> <table class="poslistinfo" width="100%"> <script type="text/javascript"> var atpQtyArr6 = new Array(); var atpDateArr6 = new Array(); </script> <tbody> <tr> <!-- <td>Qty : 59</td> --> <!--<td>Qty : 59</td> --> <td>Qty : 59</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <script type="text/javascript"> atpQtyArr6.push("59"); atpDateArr6.push("05/19/2010"); </script> <tr> <td>1099.99 </td> <td> </td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>
<table class="product-list" summary="Table Available sizes/colors, has 5 rows, 4 columns, displaying rows 1 to Last" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr class="even"><td style="vertical-align: middle;">
</td><td style="text-align: left;">
</td></tr><tr><td colspan="2" style="border-top: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0) ! important;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>


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## superg

Well, REI sells them for $100 less. I'm not going to complain about that, that's for sure. I'll try to remember to ask them if I should bring my pedals when I go pick up the bicycle.
:aureola:


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## Opus51569

superg said:


> Well, REI sells them for $100 less. I'm not going to complain about that, that's for sure. I'll try to remember to ask them if I should bring my pedals when I go pick up the bicycle.
> :aureola:


You should definitely bring the pedals. I had a crankarm issue with my Speedster originally. I installed the pedals myself and did so correctly, but if there is a warranty issue that comes up, it will be easier to make your case if the pedals are installed by the shop.


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## PlatyPius

superg said:


> Well, REI sells them for $100 less. I'm not going to complain about that, that's for sure. I'll try to remember to ask them if I should bring my pedals when I go pick up the bicycle.
> :aureola:


I don't sell them for that, either. That's MSRP.
I sell them for $1000.


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## Opus51569

*Sette post*

The new seat post arrived yesterday. Here it is on the bike.  I've only been able to take a few laps around the block thus far, but I can already feel a difference in the saddle placement. I still have the saddle forward, but not all the way forward as it was before, yet I feel much further forward on the bike. My knees are now in a good KOPS position (if you buy into that logic) and it is easier for me to place the sit bones further back on the saddle where they should be. I'll know more after some longer rides, but first impressions are good.

The clamp between the seat post and the seat is interesting. With most posts I've seen, there is a semicircular clamp that can pivot on the top of the post to set the seat angle. With this post, the clamp matches the angle of the post, and the bolts have a pivot that adjusts to set the angle. You tighten the front bolt to pull the nose down. You tighten the rear bolt to pull the nose up. I have the saddle perfectly level, but to do that, (because of the angle of the post) the front bolt is threaded much further in than the rear bolt. I'm not an engineer, but it seems like this kind of setup will put a lot of stress on the bolts. Time will tell, I suppose.

Next up, I think I am almost at a point with the adjustable stem where I have dialed in the angle that works for me. I have been looking around for a 40 degree fixed stem. I found Bontrager makes one (in white), but it's $60, so it will probably have to wait a while.


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## TucsonMTB

*Nice seatpost!*

I think you will be pleased for a long time. The two bolt arrangement is a classic going all the way back to early Campagnolo seat posts and trouble free. It is also very easy to make tiny adjustments in the angle without changing anything else. This is useful, trust me.  

Even the latest Thomson posts, which have very slender bolts, have been trouble free for me both on the road and on mountain bikes. Mountain bikes *really* stress the seat and seat post arrangement. 










Edited to add: By the way, the color and graphics on that post look great with the rest of your bike! :thumbsup:


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## superg

Opus51569 said:


> You should definitely bring the pedals. I had a crankarm issue with my Speedster originally. I installed the pedals myself and did so correctly, but if there is a warranty issue that comes up, it will be easier to make your case if the pedals are installed by the shop.


Yes, I read about your mishap with the pedals. Really weird, too. You'd think a thread is a thread is a thread. Thanks for the good advice.


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## Opus51569

TucsonMTB said:


> I think you will be pleased for a long time. The two bolt arrangement is a classic going all the way back to early Campagnolo seat posts and trouble free. It is also very easy to make tiny adjustments in the angle without changing anything else. This is useful, trust me.
> 
> Even the latest Thomson posts, which have very slender bolts, have been trouble free for me both on the road and on mountain bikes. Mountain bikes *really* stress the seat and seat post arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edited to add: By the way, the color and graphics on that post look great with the rest of your bike! :thumbsup:


Good to know about the longevity of the design. I didn't realize it had been around that long. Part of being a Clyde, I guess, is a certain amount of paranoia about what I might break.

Thanks, I was pleased with the overall look, too.


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## superg

The baby's home !!!


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## Opus51569

Outstanding! I really do like that blue. Ride it like a man possessed!


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## TucsonMTB

superg said:


> The baby's home !!!


Nice baby! Drop dead gorgeous color too, in my opinion. :thumbsup:


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## berndrea

I guess I'll post my 09 s40








105 RD, Ultegra triple, Conti tires, FSA Carbon seatpost. Still need to upgrade the shifters and front derailleur, and maybe the brakes from my carbon (ultegra 6600)


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## TucsonMTB

berndrea said:


> I guess I'll post my 09 s40 . . . 105 RD, Ultegra triple, Conti tires, FSA Carbon seatpost. Still need to upgrade the shifters and front derailleur, and maybe the brakes from my carbon (ultegra 6600)


I have a friend in Woodinville who tells me you have some significant climbs in your area, so I'm guessing the triple is a real asset. Otherwise, it might make sense to go to a compact crank if you change the shifters. Just my two cents worth. Gotta love that classic Scott racing color scheme. It reminds me of my Addict. :thumbsup:


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## berndrea

I have a bike with a compact on it. The triple is super nice, because I rode home from work (super sick and didnt want the girlfriend to pick me up) so I was feeling super weak... Needed the extra gear. The color was the ONLY reason why I bought the s40, and the price shipped! it was 719 delivered to my door. but mainly the color... lol


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## Opus51569

That's a very nice S40. Thanks for sharing the pic!


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## superg

I only took it for a 10 min spin last night, then I made a couple of adjustments and put the 'puter on. This morning I went for a ride and it was like flying on a cloud.


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## TucsonMTB

superg said:


> I only took it for a 10 min spin last night, then I made a couple of adjustments and put the 'puter on. This morning I went for a ride and it was like flying on a cloud.


I read somewhere that bicycles are the most efficient mode of personal land transportation on the planet, from a pure energy efficiency point of view. Somehow, that technical statement does not capture the experience nearly as well as your observation.


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## Opus51569

*Function 1 - Form 0 and some lessons learned*

A while back, on a lark, I decided to put the original Scott saddle back on the bike. I got to wondering if maybe I hadn't given it enough of a "break-in" period before swapping it out. I've always liked the look of the saddle on the bike. Maybe it was more comfortable than I thought.

I did a few 20 mile rides and one 30 miler and was surprised by how good the saddle felt. There was a little soreness, but nothing debilitating. Perhaps I had been too hasty. Perhaps the stock saddle was just the right combination of form and function.

This past Saturday, I took the bike for a 53 mile ride. The ride out was relatively comfortable. On the way back, I started to notice an increasing amount of pain specifically in the perineum. Interesting how pain has a way of clarifying one's thinking. By the time I got home, I was certain about a few things:

1.) I am a Clydesdale, and while I hope to not be at some point in the future, I am now. More weight simply means more psi for every contact point with the bike (pedals, bars and seat). And while your experience may be different, for me, softer feels better. 

2.) I am not a racer, sprinter, nor climber...nor will I ever be. I have no use for a saddle that is aerodynamic, or light weight. I will never ride "on the rivet" unless my positioning on the bike has gone horribly wrong 

3.) I am not wealthy enough to "keep up with the Jones'" when it comes to cycling...nor will I ever be. I'm sure there are saddles out there that have what I'm looking for (decent padding, 150mm+ width, a cutout, good looks, etc.) I've seen them. Specialized and Fizik both make them. But those saddles aren't 30 bucks, or $50 or $100.

It's two days later and the perineum is still sore. I removed the stock saddle and put the Terry Cite Y back on. It doesn't look nearly as nice, but the padding and cutout are more comfortable for me and the way I ride.


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## TucsonMTB

Opus51569 said:


> I am not wealthy enough to "keep up with the Jones'" when it comes to cycling...nor will I ever be. I'm sure there are saddles out there that have what I'm looking for (decent padding, 150mm+ width, a cutout, good looks, etc.) I've seen them. Specialized and Fizik both make them. But those saddles aren't 30 bucks, or $50 or $100.


I believe you made a wise decision. Some or all of these circumstances may change . . . but, the original Scott saddle (the same or similar to what came with my Addict R4) will always be an uncomfortable POS. :lol:


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## superg

I haven't gone more than 35 miles at a time and so far no problems in the butt area. I'll see how things proceed. I'll keep doing moderate distances until my behind gets used again to a hard saddle. I believe baby steps are the key to success.
Other than that, one thing that made me pick a Scott is the quality of the welds. They are a lot smoother than other brands I've looked at (Trek, Norco, Jamis and Cannondale). It may seem a small thing but it proves attention to details.


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## Opus51569

superg said:


> I haven't gone more than 35 miles at a time and so far no problems in the butt area. I'll see how things proceed. I'll keep doing moderate distances until my behind gets used again to a hard saddle. I believe baby steps are the key to success.
> Other than that, one thing that made me pick a Scott is the quality of the welds. They are a lot smoother than other brands I've looked at (Trek, Norco, Jamis and Cannondale). It may seem a small thing but it proves attention to details.


I found the seat to be pretty comfortable for 20-30 mile rides. It wasn't until I hit the 50+ miler that I realized that it...and my Clyde butt...were not compatible  If I ever do manage to slim down maybe I'll give it another try. In the meantime, it's the Terry for me. You're right, though, that incrementally increasing the mileage is the way to go. It will allow for the proper break-in of both you and the saddle. 

It's interesting that you mention the welds, because I have to say the seat tube/top tube/seat stay weld on my bike is about the only thing I still don't like about it aesthetically. The first picture on post #143 gives a pretty decent closeup of what I'm talking about. I didn't expect the welds to be ground smooth, but there's way too much slag left there and even a nice paint job cannot hide it. I'm guessing they've addressed the problem on the 2010 models and, if so, kudos to Scott and good for you.


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## superg

*lube ?*

I noticed the lube on the chain is as sticky as honey and picks up a lot of dust. When I wipe the chain the gunk moves from the outside to the inside of the chain links (bad!). Do you think I should clean the chain with degreaser and then apply some dry lubricant ? I don't plan to ride in the rain, ever. Thanks for any (good) advice.
Other than that, I went out on a longer ride this morning (45 mi) and everything went superr. No pains, no aches.


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## TucsonMTB

I skip the de-greasing step.

The stuff on new Shimano chains is an excellent lubricant. My new chains stay really quiet for a long time. On outer surfaces, an immediate application of my favorite lubricant to help wipe off the sticky stuff works well for me. Your mileage may vary . . . 

Oh, and congratulations on the good, longer ride! :thumbsup:


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## Opus51569

TucsonMTB said:


> I skip the de-greasing step.
> 
> The stuff on new Shimano chains is an excellent lubricant. My new chains stay really quiet for a long time. On outer surfaces, an immediate application of my favorite lubricant to help wipe off the sticky stuff works well for me. Your mileage may vary . . .
> 
> Oh, and congratulations on the good, longer ride! :thumbsup:


+1 Sheldon Brown has a good article on chain cleaning/lubing and mentions that the original lube on the chain is probably the best lube it will ever have. Don't take it off yet. Put a few hundred miles on the bike first, just be sure to wipe it down after each ride.


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## Opus51569

*The Hutchinson's are History... I think*

I've posted this as a separate thread on the Ride Reports forum, but long-story-short, the back tire on the Speedster blew out today. Ended up with an inch-long gash down the center of the tread. The blowout had enough force to push the inner thread fabric of the tire up and out the hole. I never saw a cause for the blow-out...no pothole, rocks, glass or other debris. I was riding along on a smooth MUT about 25 miles from home. I tried replacing the tube and booting the tire, but the tire had a sizeable bulge and the tear got larger so I thought it best to call it a day (and call for a ride) before things went from bad to worse.

If you'll recall, this is the second flat that I've had on the rear wheel. The first one was a month or so ago and it happened at the end of a ride shortly after hitting a good sized pothole. I chalked that flat up to a combination of the hole I hit and the no-name tube that came with the bike. I replaced that tube with a Michelin AirStop which was on the bike today. I inspected the tire at the time and found no problems with it but its entirely possible there was something I missed which helped precipitate the flat today.

In terms of a review, it's therefore hard to know what to say about the Hutchinson Equinox tires that came standard on the Speedster since I can't determine what exactly caused the blowout. The tires only have about 600 miles on them, but I can't fault the Hutchinsons out-of-hand without a more obvious cause.

So... I'm debating whether to auction a kidney and take this opportunity to buy a set of 25s to replace the 23s and keep the Hutchinson front tire as a spare. I know Gatorskins have a great reputation, and I've also been very happy with the Krylions I currently have on the Trek. They take a serious beating on my commutes to work and have proven to be very durable thus far. 

I called around to the LBSs when I got home. Both the Contis and the Michelins retail here for around $60 each. They are less expensive online, but by the time you factor in shipping it comes out to just about the same.

[BTW, there is no reason why a good bicycle tire should cost more than a decent tire for my car!  Thus endeth the mini-rant.]

Until I figure out what to do, the Speedster is currently up on blocks (i.e. sitting in the workstand minus both wheels) in the garage. More updates as they happen...


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## TucsonMTB

Opus51569 said:


> In terms of a review, it's therefore hard to know what to say about the Hutchinson Equinox tires that came standard on the Speedster since I can't determine what exactly caused the blowout. The tires only have about 600 miles on them, but I can't fault the Hutchinsons out-of-hand without a more obvious cause.
> 
> Until I figure out what to do, the Speedster is currently up on blocks (i.e. sitting in the workstand minus both wheels) in the garage. More updates as they happen...


My Addict R4 also came with Hutchinson's. After the POS saddle, they were the first thing to get replaced at less than 100 miles. I really like Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX 700 x 23C Black/Black Aramid Bead tires (also about $60 delivered). They are NOT particularly durable lasting me about 1500 to 2000 miles in the rear, depending on what kind of thorns I hit.  However, the front has over 4500 so far and still has plenty of tread. :thumbsup: They have a very nice ride. As an old guy with time running out, the ride is more important to me than durability.  

I'm sending you a PM to get your mailing address and will mail you the two original Hutchinson tires, if you like. That should give you some cost effective mileage.


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## PlatyPius

The 2010 Speedsters come with Conti "Sport" tires.
Me, I'm partial to Michelin Lithions for overall general usage, Panaracer Paselas (w/Tour Guard) for longevity, and Veloflex Paves for road feel.


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## Opus51569

TucsonMTB said:


> My Addict R4 also came with Hutchinson's. After the POS saddle, they were the first thing to get replaced at less than 100 miles. I really like Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX 700 x 23C Black/Black Aramid Bead tires (also about $60 delivered). They are NOT particularly durable lasting me about 1500 to 2000 miles in the rear, depending on what kind of thorns I hit.  However, the front has over 4500 so far and still has plenty of tread. :thumbsup: They have a very nice ride. As an old guy with time running out, the ride is more important to me than durability.
> 
> I'm sending you a PM to get your mailing address and will mail you the two original Hutchinson tires, if you like. That should give you some cost effective mileage.


I got your PM before I saw your post here. That's incredibly generous of you, but the "kidney" thing is a bit of an exaggeration. I'll make it work. I'm enjoying the bike too much to have it be shoeless for very long . Seriously, though, thank you for the offer.


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## superg

So sorry to hear about your tire problems. Btw, my S30 came with Conti Ultra Sport, which I just replaced yesterday with the Hutchinson Equinox that I got on sale from Nashbar. I also replaced the original tubes (noname chinese long valve) with Vittoria tubes, just for practice. Too early to tell the difference / am I asking for trouble ? . 
It's probably true the original lube on the chain is the BEST water repellant ever, but again, it picks up even the smallest speck of dust, so with even less than 500k on it there is already gunk on the chain, which wiping will only push on the inside of the links, then moving to the chainrings and ders.:mad2:


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## Opus51569

Tucson or others here may have more experience with the Hutchinson's than I do, but I don't think you're necessarily headed for trouble just because I had a blowout. I have to admit that I didn't follow some very basic advice of checking the tires carefully between rides. There may have been a warning sign there that I missed. Just keep an eye on them and, if worse comes to worse, you've always got the Contis as a spare.

As for the lube, if you think it's doing more harm than good, take the plunge and do a good cleaning and relube...you know you're going to anyway


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## lucascarvajal

Opus51569 said:


> A while back, on a lark, I decided to put the original Scott saddle back on the bike. I got to wondering if maybe I hadn't given it enough of a "break-in" period before swapping it out. I've always liked the look of the saddle on the bike. Maybe it was more comfortable than I thought.
> 
> I did a few 20 mile rides and one 30 miler and was surprised by how good the saddle felt. There was a little soreness, but nothing debilitating. Perhaps I had been too hasty. Perhaps the stock saddle was just the right combination of form and function.
> 
> This past Saturday, I took the bike for a 53 mile ride. The ride out was relatively comfortable. On the way back, I started to notice an increasing amount of pain specifically in the perineum. Interesting how pain has a way of clarifying one's thinking. By the time I got home, I was certain about a few things:
> 
> 1.) I am a Clydesdale, and while I hope to not be at some point in the future, I am now. More weight simply means more psi for every contact point with the bike (pedals, bars and seat). And while your experience may be different, for me, softer feels better.
> 
> 2.) I am not a racer, sprinter, nor climber...nor will I ever be. I have no use for a saddle that is aerodynamic, or light weight. I will never ride "on the rivet" unless my positioning on the bike has gone horribly wrong
> 
> 3.) I am not wealthy enough to "keep up with the Jones'" when it comes to cycling...nor will I ever be. I'm sure there are saddles out there that have what I'm looking for (decent padding, 150mm+ width, a cutout, good looks, etc.) I've seen them. Specialized and Fizik both make them. But those saddles aren't 30 bucks, or $50 or $100.
> 
> It's two days later and the perineum is still sore. I removed the stock saddle and put the Terry Cite Y back on. It doesn't look nearly as nice, but the padding and cutout are more comfortable for me and the way I ride.



Serfas gustoso!! the best saddle ever, especialy if you have a non racing ass  its better then any fizik for 1/4 of the prize


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## TucsonMTB

lucascarvajal said:


> Serfas gustoso!! the best saddle ever, especialy if you have a non racing ass  its better then any fizik for 1/4 of the prize


Serfas certainly has a wide variety of saddles as seen here on their website. Which model is the "gustoso"?


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## lucascarvajal

TucsonMTB said:


> Serfas certainly has a wide variety of saddles as seen here on their website. Which model is the "gustoso"?


soory is VST-1 Vistoso, not gustoso as i said before, its the best saddle ever!!! i try already fizik arione, fizik pave, anda cuple of san marcos. SERFAS ROCKSSSS!!!:thumbsup:


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## Opus51569

The VST-1 looks nice. But I think I prefer a cutout...and the 135mm width is probably a bit narrow for me .


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## TucsonMTB

I will stick with what works for me. From the WTB website:

_The Laser V Team has a smooth shape with no sharp edges, making it a great XC, all mountain, or long-distance road saddle. Unsure which saddle is right for your anatomy? The Laser V's subtle shape makes it the ideal first choice.

* Rail: Titanium
* Weight: 275g
* Soft Shell
* DNA Padding 
_
I found mine (and a spare) on eBay. The lowest regular mail order dealer price I have seen is $60 from GreenFish Adventure Sports.

Yeah, it might be a little heavy, but it's very comfortable for me on longer (and shorter) rides. :thumbsup:


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## ROAD&DIRT

My 09 Speedster came with the stock Hutchinson Equinox tires on it as well. This spring during an quick inspection I've notice a small (about 1" long) mark, kind of a slit looking on a small section of my rear tire, I only of about 800 miles on the now. I'm keeping on it but also looking into replacing the tire with SCHWABLE ULTREMO R1's


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## Opus51569

*Time for a new thread?*

With this being the 175th post on this particular thread it occurs to me that a new thread might be in order. The thread started as a review of the Speedster but it has expanded over time. The initial review has become an extended ride test now that I've had the bike for almost a year. The thread now includes regular posts from folks who own Speedsters as well as other Scott bikes. So, I'm starting a sequel thread entitled: *Speedsters and Addicts and CR1s, oh my!*. Look for it on a forum near you and I hope to see all the "regulars" or anyone else with an interest in Scott bikes, there...


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