# Ride Report - Hunan Province, China



## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Hunan Province was known as a den of robbers. The areas were poor and mountainous, a perfect hiding place for criminals. We had taken certain defensive measures to protect ourselves, for example, not to carry any credit card, hide extra money inside the handle bar of our bikes for emergency in case we got robbed, etc.... However, it turned out that people we met were not that ugly, most of them were nice and friendly.
We planned to ride from Zhangjiajie to Jishou and to Huaihua, estimated mileage was around 500km. Highlight of the trip was to visit Zhangjiajie National Park, a national AAAA grade scenic area. We would visit ancient towns, Wong’s village and Phoenix.
As it happened, we only rode from Zhangjiajie to Phoenix, total around 340km as shown in black arrows on the map. When we were in Jishou and Phoenix, the air quality was very poor, poor visibility for photography with chemical smell. We were told Huaihua was a industrial city, there were cement factories in the area, poor quality coal was used, etc, etc… We therefore decided to skip the ride from Phoenix to Huaihua, took a bus to Huaihua instead for a train back to Dongguan.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Sleeping berth on the train to Zhangjiajie with bagged bikes in the middle.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

45km from Zhangjiajie train station to Wulingyuen ( one of the entrances of Zhangjiajie National Park ), hills and tunnels. After a 2km long tunnel, here came the introductory scenery of the famous Zhangjiajie.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Arrived Wulingyuen before sunset. 

One traditional Hunan dish is extreme chili hot pot. While skipping the extreme chili, we thought hot pot was a good idea. Chicken and fish hot pots, vegetable, steamed rice and beer in this case.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

We spent two full days in Zhangjiajie National Park just for sight seeing. The park was composed of majestic landforms of quartzose sandstone, peak forest, canyons, strange peaks and stone, ancient trees. Interestingly the park was full of Korean, permanent signage in Korean was displayed throughout the area, we were told that a South Korea prime minister visited the place which greatly helped the promotion.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Chi-ming and the podium girls ( girls on the mountain podium ).


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

More pictures of the Park. The god treated us not too badly, he sent us rain in the second day together with some scattered low level clouds for our photography.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

We set off 6:15am early in the morning on the 110km ride to Wong's Village.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Plenty of hills/mountain, bridges and tunnels. The road was new and pretty, scenery was good. Weren’t those trees on the mountain similar with those in the mountain of the west ?


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## mrrun2fast (Apr 14, 2003)

Simply amazing!

Thanks for sharing.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

This was one scary tunnel, 2 or 3km long with no light at all. Since we did not intend to ride at night, my lighting system was the "be seen" kind of stuff. Riding in that tunnel was kind of like riding the Space Mountain of Disneyland. At one time, I had to ask Chi-ming to lead me through since his light was more powerful.


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## 3rensho (Aug 26, 2003)

*I never thought I'd want to ride in China.....*

...until your travelogue. Incredible scenery and a very cool report as usual. Thanks!


(- I especially like that you include pictures of your meals! )


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

More photos on the way to Wong’s Village.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Arrived Wong's Village in time to capture a few moments of sunset.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

The ancient Wong’s Village.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

A bookstore on the street.

A barber shop.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Anyone know what was that being hanged for drying ?
The answer is Noodle. Is that the reason why dry spaghetti is straight too ?

This man was picking bean curds from the lady’s back, I saw him paid the lady afterward.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

On the way to Jishou.

Delivery of a harvest machine on foot in the middle of nowhere, no kidding.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

I was trying to give some small gifts to 3 kids. Before I knew, I was surrounded by dozens of them came out from nowhere. The presentation of course was ended in chaos, Chi-ming did not intend to help but took a record of my embarrassment.

No, he did help, in distracting their attention with his digital camera and left me alone.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

From Jishou to Phoenix, 55km. Chi-ming had enough riding on steep slopes.

Construction of a new road to Phoenix was not completed yet.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Arrived Phoenix before noon. Look, how misty Phoenix was, it was smog. Local people said it had always been like that.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Our breakfast was the same as what this young lady was having, fried bread stick dipped in soya milk.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Smoked meat that we dared not to try.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

More pictures of Phoenix.

The bridges over the water and unique houses built on stilts that is so often portrayed in traditional Chinese paintings.
Phoenix is an ancient town with a history spanning 1300 years has distinctive residential buildings, elegant bridges and mysterious towers and pagodas. These architectural delights date from the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911).


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

We met this guy in Phoenix, he said he rode from Hong Kong to Tibet and back all the way on his bike, took him months to get there. He left from Phoenix to Huaihua two hours before we departed by bus, I was surprised to catch him on the way at that spot. My rough estimation of his average speed was 20kmph, quite good in such hilly area.


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## colker1 (Jan 2, 2003)

*best thread of the year!*

no message.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

Thank you very much for your vote.


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## wooglin (Feb 22, 2002)

Wow. Just wow.


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## KeeponTrekkin (Aug 29, 2002)

*Post-Mao era China ...*

Whenever I look at these ride reports, I cannot help but ponder the enormity of change in China during and after Mao. Some 20 years ago, while visiting my father, colleagues of his returned from a business trim to China. Half the company turned out for an evening slide show of their trip, just for an opportunity to see inside China.

Now, pictures and maps of China are posted on an international website without apparent censorship or consequence to the photographer. A few years ago, this would have been spying (and probably is still in North Korea.)

The scenery is breathtaking. The pictures of the roads, bridges, towns and people are very revealing of new prosperity. I wouldn't dare eat that smoked meat either!

If I could choose one RBR member and ride with him/her in the native country and eat the native food, it would be Kai-Ming in China.


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## Fordy (Feb 3, 2004)

*Fabulous*

Thank You


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

*Excellent travelogue!*

Kai-ming, thanks for sharing the excellent travelogue! I should say that your postings tend to make me hungry for certain East Asian foods ;-).

Thanks again for helping the less fortunate among us tide the terrible cold weather over.

Duo Xie!


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## M.J. (Jan 28, 2004)

*great ride*

report


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## Fogdweller (Mar 26, 2004)

*Excellent!!*

As always, a pleasure to read and gaze. I love how you capture the local flavor as well as the bike riding. Please keep these coming, they're my favorite threads.


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## boneman (Nov 26, 2001)

*Nice work!*

kai-ming. You've outdone yourself this time. Almost makes me want to travel to the motherland except for the lack of language skills. Great trip and pics.


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## rodetoruin (Feb 8, 2004)

You have always been, and continue to be, the absolute best. You're also the bravest and probably the toughest. You should do a book on these ride reports. Thanks again.


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## Mainardi (Apr 29, 2004)

*I'm Breathless!!!!!!*

Excelent! Thanks for the post, who know some day....
Seeya!


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## velonh (Jul 16, 2004)

*Amazing!*

Breath-taking! 

I'm really intrested in hearing more about your experience. I spent a month on the mainland in 2000 and loved it but thought that I would have been suicide to bike in china. Anarchy seems to rule the road- I remember seriously thinking about writing my last will and testament while taking a cab ride in Xian. 

v


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## maomi (Oct 22, 2004)

*Your pictures made me homesick...*

Kai-ming,

Thanks for your report and pictures. They made me homesick...

Sue


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## merckxman (Jan 23, 2002)

*Thank you very much!*

Great photos; I always feel I am on a special journey.


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## yiata (Jul 11, 2004)

*Too cool*

I love your mix of scenery and people. Thanks for sharing with us.


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## James30Florida (Apr 14, 2004)

wow!


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## Einstruzende (Jun 1, 2004)

Great pictures. I would love to go there and site see (while riding of course!)

Is China a safe spot for Americans?


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## The Walrus (Apr 2, 2000)

*Another great report!*

You always provide a unique perspective to the trips you take, especially as you visit spots that would probably be completely unknown to those of us from outside China. It's great that we can see the local, day-to-day life in the villages and cities you pass through, and that there is more than the "tourist" sights to be seen.

As always, thanks for the report!


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

*Yes, you will be safe providing .....*

you will never ever again launch missile at our embassy and get all of your maps updated.



Einstruzende said:


> Great pictures. I would love to go there and site see (while riding of course!)
> 
> Is China a safe spot for Americans?


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

velonh said:


> Breath-taking!
> 
> I'm really intrested in hearing more about your experience. I spent a month on the mainland in 2000 and loved it but thought that I would have been suicide to bike in china. Anarchy seems to rule the road- I remember seriously thinking about writing my last will and testament while taking a cab ride in Xian.
> 
> v


In my opinion, you will be much safer by riding a bike in remote countryside than walking in a big city in China. In the eyes of most Chinese, bicycle is a poor man's vehicle for transportation. Just don't show off how rich you are, I think you will be all right.


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## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

Absolutely spectacular!

Thanks for sharing.


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## El Caballito (Oct 31, 2004)

*Beautiful!*

Thank You for reminding us about the simplicity of life. Your pictures are beautiful.


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## blurry (Mar 4, 2004)

cool beans thanks


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## northcoast (Jul 11, 2003)

*Incredible!*

Thanks for sharing. Amazing trip.


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## GeoCyclist (Oct 31, 2002)

*Fantastic Ride Report*

I always like looking at your ride reports; as it make me want to get out and explore more of where I live. Thanks for the post and keep them coming!

Ride on!


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## jimmyihatetoregister (Oct 23, 2002)

*thank you*

great photos. It was like taking a short trip.


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## mickey-mac (Sep 2, 2000)

You have my vote for the most fascinating ride report posted on this board to date. Thank you.


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## rule (Dec 2, 2004)

LOL...proving once again that people the world over aren't that different after all, how funny is it that the kids in China even hold their fingers up behind each others' heads in pictures.  

Excellent post. Thanks for sharing it!


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## Ricky2 (Apr 7, 2004)

*CHINA is beautiful*

WOW! What a BEAUTIFUL country. Too bad we have that stupid anti-Chinese advertisement banner from Competitive Cyclist dominating the screen


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

kai-ming said:


> Chi-ming and the podium girls ( girls on the mountain podium ).


That is a great photo.


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## kai-ming (Oct 3, 2002)

kai-ming said:


> I was trying to give some small gifts to 3 kids. Before I knew, I was surrounded by dozens of them came out from nowhere. The presentation of course was ended in chaos, Chi-ming did not intend to help but took a record of my embarrassment.
> 
> No, he did help, in distracting their attention with his digital camera and left me alone.


These children shots were captured by Chi Ming. He has great talent in capturing the right moment of children. He had been trained/working as a primary school teacher for over 30 years.


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