# New to road cycling



## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

I have been mountain biking for years but I'm thinking about trying out road cycling. At the moment I aquired a free 1980s Schwinn World Sport. I went over every square inch of the bike to get it in the best riding condition I could. It still leaves a lot to be desired so my next step is a new bike.

I guess to start, my budget is about $1,500 but I have some wiggle room for more. I plan on taking advantage of clearance deals. I'm 5'9" and 145lbs. Will be doing 20 to 60 miles of recreation / fitness riding once or twice a week (still need time on the mtb!). The riding will be on paved mountain roads and rough chip seal country roads.

I'm not familure with which component sets are good or bad on road bikes. So what component sets should I be looking for with Shimano and Sram? Also since a lot of my riding will be on mildy rouch chip seal road should I think about getting a frame with vertical compliance? My goal is to keep the bike sub 20lbs. It will just be road cycling; no CX and I can walk the 1/2 mile of gravel down my driveway to the road.

I would prefer to buy the bike from my local Performance Bike shop. So I'm looking for bikes made by Ridley, Fuji and Scattante. If those manufactures don't fit the bill I'll check out my other shops.

P.S. I do intend on test riding at least a few different bikes. Right now I have my eye on a Fuji Transonic 2.8. Haven't test ridden it due to rain but if anyone has personal experience with this bike I'd like to hear it.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

Ride a bunch of different bikes - from performance AND other shops/brands, e.g. spesh, trek, cannondale, cervelo, etc. 

Performance is tricky with its labeling - a 105 bike is really just a 105 rear derailleur and shifters, everything else is one or more steps down from that. 

As far as what you should look for (component wise): For the most part, a given price point gets you pretty much the same stuff from everyone. So, just find the bike you like to ride that is at your price point.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I agree that you'd be well served to branch out a bit and ride as many bikes as possible. While Performance seems to offer value, staying with them also means staying with the brands they carry.

If I were riding mtn roads and rough country roads, I'd be looking at bikes that could run (at least) 25c tires, but preferably 28's. Also, discuss gearing with the folks at the shops you visit. To me "mountain" means riding up, so unless you're very fit, lower gearing (maybe 50/34 up front and 12-30 or 12-32 cassettes).

Re: components, in your price range, depending on a number of factors, you'll probably be looking at Shimano Sora, Tiagra or 105 groupsets. All fine choices that perform well. Given your twice weekly, 20-60 mile rides, I think Tiagra would be the sweet spot, and assuming mtn biking is your primary discipline, no real need to go higher or spend more.

_Most importantly_, make sure the bike you choose fits well and you enjoy riding it.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Thanks for the advice! Most of my riding will be on skyline drive in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia. Some of the hills were just slightly to steep for the 52/39 crank and 14-28 cassette (2x5) on the Schwinn (also riding it with flats). I'll look at what models have a 50/34 crank. I can deal with changing a few cogs or even the whole cassette if I need to.

I didn't think much about tire size for ride comfort. Kind of dumb I over looked that since I just switched to 2.4in on my Sensor and love it! Looks like the Transonic can handle 28's.

I remember seeing Shimano 105 on the brake levers of the Transonic. Glad I didn't jump into a bike expecting 105 components all around.

I do want rim brakes but I'm not familure with them. Since hitting deer/bears at downhill speeds is a very real possibility I need good brakes. What kind of braking power should I expect with my lower end price range? Also would new brakes be a worth while upgrade on a cheaper bike or would it be worth the extra few hundred $ to buy the next model higher with better components anyway? By trying to use common sense I would think rim material and the brake pads are the only things that would have a major effect. Better brake pads would be plenty cheap to upgrade.

It sucks having a budget!!!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> I do want rim brakes but I'm not familure with them. Since hitting deer/bears at downhill speeds is a very real possibility I need good brakes. What kind of braking power should I expect with my lower end price range?
> 
> Also would it be a worth while upgrade on a cheaper bike or would it be worth the extra few hundred $ to buy the next model higher with better components anyway? By trying to use common sense I would think rim material and the brake pads are the only things that would have a major effect. Better brake pads would be plenty cheap to upgrade.
> 
> It sucks having a budget!!!


Agree with you on the rim brakes.. a fine choice.

In your price range most any dual pivot brakes will perform well. Most important are the pads, so if you want to optimize what's OE on your bike of choice consider Kool Stop Salmon pads, or similar.

My advice is to stay within your budget. It'll get you a very nice bike (a step above what I'd call "entry level"). From there, just ride, see how you like road riding and (if you do like it) what you'd change about your current bike, _then_ upgrade. If you end up going back to mtn biking, you've minimized your loss. 

And remember, if money is burning a hole in your pocket, you can always go clipless, add a Garmin... the list goes on and on.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> My advice is to stay within your budget. It'll get you a very nice bike (a step above what I'd call "entry level"). From there, just ride, see how you like road riding and (if you do like it) what you'd change about your current bike, _then_ upgrade. If you end up going back to mtn biking, you've minimized your loss.


Sounds like a good plan to me! I'm glad to hear I can just replace stock brake pads if I need more stopping power. I do have clipless pedals from mountain biking. I switched to flats a few months ago and loved it. Even started setting PRs on some tough climbs with flats. I'll probably start with clipless on the new road bike but I might experiment with flats just to do it. I'm sure I'll be the only one using them!

I'm mostly worried about buying cheap costing me more in the long run. My first mountain bike was entry level. I ended up spending as much on it replacing what broke or wore out that I could have bought the bike that was two grades higher in the first place. Only the cheap bike still had a mostly cheap drive tran. The suspension adds a huge chunk to the equation though.


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## michaelcogburn.c (Nov 22, 2015)

I'm also a beginner rider. I'm preparing to get a Altamira 2.5, to start riding at road. However, the shop where I often visit, owner there told me about Fuji Transonic 2.8, it's also a good cycle for a beginner.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

If you end up with Shimano 105 brakes, you'll have the same pads as Ultegra and Dura Ace and they should do you just fine. Also keep in mind when test riding, brakes may not be fine tuned yet so don't judge too harshly if it doesn't feel right. Usually if you've got 105 or Ultegra brakes you're not going to have any issues long run.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

michaelcogburn.c said:


> I'm also a beginner rider. I'm preparing to get a Altamira 2.5, to start riding at road. However, the shop where I often visit, owner there told me about Fuji Transonic 2.8, it's also a good cycle for a beginner.


My local shop didn't have an Altamira. It would be nice to check one out though. Looking at Fuji's web site its hard to tell what makes one better than the other comparing to the Transonic. I know the Gran Fondo is mostly a more upright riding position. 



jetdog9 said:


> If you end up with Shimano 105 brakes, you'll have the same pads as Ultegra and Dura Ace and they should do you just fine. Also keep in mind when test riding, brakes may not be fine tuned yet so don't judge too harshly if it doesn't feel right. Usually if you've got 105 or Ultegra brakes you're not going to have any issues long run.


After checking out the specs last night it looks like the Transonic has Tektro brakes. If for whatever reason they don't hold up I've heard brake upgrades can be found pretty cheap (yay for not being hydraulic disk!!!). Disk has a pretty long break in period before they become 100% as well so I wont judge to harshly on a test ride.

Performance does have a Ridley for $1,600 that I'll have to look more into. If it has better brakes and drive tran it will probably be the better way to go. Of course.... I need to test ride them first!

Still raining.... Should be clear on Friday to get things started.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> I'm mostly worried about buying cheap costing me more in the long run. My first mountain bike was entry level. I ended up spending as much on it replacing what broke or wore out that I could have bought the bike that was two grades higher in the first place. Only the cheap bike still had a mostly cheap drive tran. The suspension adds a huge chunk to the equation though.


Given your price range, I don't think this is an issue. There are a lot of very nice $1500 bikes that'll (literally) go tens of thousands of miles without the need (keyword, _need_) to upgrade.

Re: the Tektro's, they'll do you fine. They're dual pivot, so (again) it's the pads that matter.

On your test rides, give consideration to how the bikes fit and feel. Lots of beginners focus on components. As long as they're installed/ tuned correctly, most any work fine. But on rides, your comfort contributes a great deal to your riding enjoyment.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

$1500 actually isn't a bad budget these days, listen to the other fellas and look around, but two nice bikes that fall into that price range and are sold by Performance and others are the entry level Fuji Transonic and Fuji SL. Performance had the Transonic 2.8 for like $1200 the other day. That's a carbon, aero bike with 105 groupset (mostly) for way under your budget. I think the SL starts at like high $1600 or so. I would also say take a look at the new Giant TCR which starts around there and the Specialized Allez, Trek Emonda ALR, and Cannondale Caad10 and Caad12. All are good and have models priced close to what you are looking to spend. Shimano vs Sram doesn't really matter much (both are fine), but it is a personal preference kind of thing, so try both to figure out which you would like to have if you can. I wish you the best. Keep us updated.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Still raining but I stopped by Performance for a more detailed look at things. I feel like I'd be happy with the component set on the Transonic 2.8. I will definitely pay attention to ride fit and ride quality on the test rides more than anything.

They did also have a 2014 SST with Ultegra components for $1,400! I'm not sure if I want such a stiff frame. Can't wait to start the test rides!

There is a Canondale / Giant dealer right across the street. I'll probably check there over the weekend after testing what Performance has.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Fajita Dave said:


> Still raining but I stopped by Performance for a more detailed look at things. I feel like I'd be happy with the component set on the Transonic 2.8. I will definitely pay attention to ride fit and ride quality on the test rides more than anything.
> 
> They did also have a 2014 SST with Ultegra components for $1,400! I'm not sure if I want such a stiff frame. Can't wait to start the test rides!
> 
> There is a Canondale / Giant dealer right across the street. I'll probably check there over the weekend after testing what Performance has.


I tested the Transonic 2.7 awhile ago and the 2.8 a couple of weeks ago. It's a great bike for the price. You really can't go wrong with it and it got a lot of positive reviews as well (just google transonic 2.X and you can find them).


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> Still raining but I stopped by Performance for a more detailed look at things. I feel like I'd be happy with the component set on the Transonic 2.8. I will definitely pay attention to ride fit and ride quality on the test rides more than anything.
> 
> *They did also have a 2014 SST with Ultegra components for $1,400! *I'm not sure if I want such a stiff frame. *Can't wait to start the test rides!
> *
> There is a Cannondale / Giant dealer right across the street. I'll probably check there over the weekend after testing what Performance has.


I'm not faulting you because I've done the same, but (I think) all the agonizing over specs/ components will fade when you start your test rides. That's where the field will whittle down and your choice(s) will become clear. 

Definitely hit that C'dale/ Giant dealer... and others if they're relatively close by.

Here's hoping the rain ends....


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> I'm not faulting you because I've done the same, but (I think) all the agonizing over specs/ components will fade when you start your test rides. That's where the field will whittle down and your choice(s) will become clear.
> 
> Definitely hit that C'dale/ Giant dealer... and others if they're relatively close by.
> 
> Here's hoping the rain ends....


Thursday and into the weekend is sunny and in the 50s! I might go to Performance tomorrow (Thursday) for a few rides. Then I'll have Friday open to check out the other shop. Generally their prices are higher which might shut down my chances for a Giant or Canondale.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Fajita Dave said:


> Thursday and into the weekend is sunny and in the 50s! I might go to Performance tomorrow (Thursday) for a few rides. Then I'll have Friday open to check out the other shop. Generally their prices are higher which might shut down my chances for a Giant or Canondale.


Giant and Cannondale definitely can't match the price of the Transonic 2.8 right now, but take at look at entry level Giant TCRs and Cannondale Synapses, and Caad10/Caad12 bikes. They should be priced pretty close to your budget, especially if they have any in your size on closeout/sale.


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## ChiroX (Oct 30, 2015)

Without looking up the prices before I speak, see about finding a Cannondale CAAD 10 or 12 with 105 components, I think that should be within $ range, maybe the Cannondale Super Six with Tiagra, slightly lower components with a carbon frameset. Or the Synapse if you want more upright. 

I'd try for Shimano 105 for function and value. Tiagra is fine, but 105 better. With that budget, I would go no lower.


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## Hoxtongue1 (Nov 26, 2015)

You should also keep an eye on the local classifieds such as Craigslist and Kijiji, there are some good used finds with little to no miles, you can easily get an upgrade in terms of components/frame and walk away with a 1 year old bike in that price range. 

Do your research, I am the same height as you and a 54 or medium fits me well. Just purchased a used Colagno with the stickers still on the brakes for less than half of their original purchase price. Deals are out there, just need to shop around and not be in a hurry.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Hoxtongue1 said:


> You should also keep an eye on the local classifieds such as Craigslist and Kijiji, there are some good used finds with little to no miles, you can easily get an upgrade in terms of components/frame and walk away with a 1 year old bike in that price range.
> 
> Do your research, I am the same height as you and a 54 or medium fits me well. Just purchased a used Colagno with the stickers still on the brakes for less than half of their original purchase price. Deals are out there, just need to shop around and not be in a hurry.


A couple of things to be aware of....

Buying used *can* work, but there are some disadvantages. 

One, there's no warranty, so I'd avoid buying used CF (hidden defects). Second, you'll get no sizing/ fit advice, so you're left to fit yourself - or pay a LBS to do it. 

Re: sizing, proportions/ flexibility (among other factors) matter more than height alone in determining frame size. And since there are no standards for determining frame size, one manufacturers 54CM isn't another's. 

OP, it's your money, so you have to decide how and where to spend it. Whatever course you choose, take steps to make sure it's the right one for you.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> A couple of things to be aware of....
> 
> Buying used *can* work, but there are some disadvantages.
> 
> ...


I agree 100%, particularly when there are multiple good bikes that interest you in your price range that you can get new.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

I thought about the used market but with a carbon frame I did want a warrenty. I can repair carbon but it would be much nicer to just have it replaced. Also I couldn't find a whole lot of options in my size on the local craig's list adds.

I test rode the 14' SST 2.0LE ($1,400), 15' Transonic 2.8 ($1,300) and a Scattante ($1,000) that I don't remember the model of. Frame handling felt identical between the SST and the Transonic but the Ultegra drive tran on the SST was way nicer to shift with. Especially for selecting trim on the front DE (new to me, didn't know they had that). Accelerating up a hill in full sprint "seemed" to be easier with the SST as well, it does have a better wheel set thats probably lighter. The Scattante had a nice component set but the frame didn't feel lively enough. The steering felt a little more lazy. All three were to stiff to notice any flex even on the bumps and mashing on the pedals as hard as I could.

Since I didn't notice any major handling differences between the Fuji bikes. The SST is pretty clearly a better deal for the components. MSRP on the SST is also over $3k!! Does seem like one hell of a deal.

Checking out C-dale and Giant tomorrow. I'll probably be coming home with a new bike from one place or the other.


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## Hoxtongue1 (Nov 26, 2015)

Great news, I had suggested used seeing in Canada we can't get anywhere near those prices for new bikes due to exchange and little competition. Used market gets you much better pricing/options. In your case you have some great choices with a warranty including a possible "free bike fit".


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Fajita Dave said:


> I thought about the used market but with a carbon frame I did want a warrenty. I can repair carbon but it would be much nicer to just have it replaced. Also I couldn't find a whole lot of options in my size on the local craig's list adds.
> 
> I test rode the 14' SST 2.0LE ($1,400), 15' Transonic 2.8 ($1,300) and a Scattante ($1,000) that I don't remember the model of. Frame handling felt identical between the SST and the Transonic but the Ultegra drive tran on the SST was way nicer to shift with. Especially for selecting trim on the front DE (new to me, didn't know they had that). Accelerating up a hill in full sprint "seemed" to be easier with the SST as well, it does have a better wheel set thats probably lighter. The Scattante had a nice component set but the frame didn't feel lively enough. The steering felt a little more lazy. All three were to stiff to notice any flex even on the bumps and mashing on the pedals as hard as I could.
> 
> ...


This sounds like a great plan. Congrats. The only negative I have heard about the SST vs. the Transonic is that the cables can bounce around inside the frame on some bikes and people have to work to resolve that. I would also say check reviews of bikes that interest you online and visit the Fuji thread in here to see what folks think of both bikes and any others you consider (some issues are tough to identify on a short test ride). Looking forward to see how it all plays out.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Here's one good review for the SST after 6 months of testing it:

The Six-Month Test: Fuji SST 1.3 | Outside Online


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

.... And here is a couple for the Transonic:

Fuji Transonic 2.3 review - BikeRadar USA

Fuji Transonic 2.5 review | Cyclist


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

Fajita Dave said:


> I do want rim brakes but I'm not familure with them. Since hitting deer/bears at downhill speeds is a very real possibility I need good brakes. What kind of braking power should I expect with my lower end price range?


You'll have enough power to lock the brakes up. Keep in mind there a VERY small contact patch on road tires compared to MTBs. More money makes it easier to brake with less hand force, and gives you better control over the braking power you do apply. 105 is quite nice, btw.

I suggest strongly you practice braking at the limit before you need to in the wild. It won't take long to get things hardwired in your brain, but it will take some time. 

Oh, and braking from the hoods versus the drops is not the same thing. On the hoods, your center of gravity is higher. This is not an issue on an MTB, so I thought I should mention it.




Fajita Dave said:


> I'm mostly worried about buying cheap costing me more in the long run. My first mountain bike was entry level. I ended up spending as much on it replacing what broke or wore out that I could have bought the bike that was two grades higher in the first place. Only the cheap bike still had a mostly cheap drive tran. The suspension adds a huge chunk to the equation though.


You won't do much damage to a road bike in the normal course of events. Stuff won't break, muck won't grind things like on the trail. $1000-1500 will do you just fine for as many years as you like with normal maintenance and use. I'm not saying you won't WANT to change things, but you won't have to.

You might try to keep a bit saved for 1) a new stem to dial in your position... and you will likely want a lower/more stretched out position after a couple months, 2) a new saddle if the OEM one causes you issues, as you will be sitting a LOT more and standing a LOT less than on the trail.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

I try not to look at reviews. Most of them seem to say all of the same crap with different wording and a few key points that don't mean much one way or another. With that being said, I finally did check out some reviews which raised another question instead of finding any answers. How can certain frames be better at climbing than others? I keep seeing people and reviews say the Transonic and SST don't climb as well as the Altamira. Stating the Altamira is more flexy and that it climbs better. I can certainly see wheel weight, gearing, and ergonomics having a drastic effect on climbing performance. Reviews seem to imply the frame is to blame.

The SST did accelerate uphill slightly better than the Transonic but I chalked it up to the lighter wheel set on the SST. The parking lot had no sustained climbing and the shop didn't have an Altamira to try. I guess I'm just trying to get a better idea of what I should be feeling for on a test ride. The three modern road bikes I've ridden so far all felt so similar. Granted the Transonic is kind of the replacement for the SST so they should feel very similar. Either way its a tough adjustment for me to feel since mountain bikes feel drastically different from one to another.

Besides that minor climbing detail that bothers me; I have a more useful question for when I do buy the bike. How do you protect the carbon frame from chain damage? On the MTB I just slap on a huge leather (heavy) chain stay protector. I do want to keep it light but I would sacrifice a few grams to protect the carbon frame from damage. 

I didn't think about checking out the Fuji section of the forum. Probably should have thought of that already!


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Fajita Dave said:


> I try not to look at reviews. Most of them seem to say all of the same crap with different wording and a few key points that don't mean much one way or another. With that being said, I finally did check out some reviews which raised another question instead of finding any answers. How can certain frames be better at climbing than others? I keep seeing people and reviews say the Transonic and SST don't climb as well as the Altamira. Stating the Altamira is more flexy and that it climbs better. I can certainly see wheel weight, gearing, and ergonomics having a drastic effect on climbing performance. Reviews seem to imply the frame is to blame.
> 
> The SST did accelerate uphill slightly better than the Transonic but I chalked it up to the lighter wheel set on the SST. The parking lot had no sustained climbing and the shop didn't have an Altamira to try. I guess I'm just trying to get a better idea of what I should be feeling for on a test ride. The three modern road bikes I've ridden so far all felt so similar. Granted the Transonic is kind of the replacement for the SST so they should feel very similar. Either way its a tough adjustment for me to feel since mountain bikes feel drastically different from one to another.
> 
> ...


Different companies/people point to different things regarding what makes a great climbing bike. Most of the discussion ends up centering around the stiffness to weight characteristics of the bike. My honest opinion is that a good carbon bike is a good carbon bike and you should be fine on whichever bike you decide you like and choose because you can always upgrade wheels and components down the road. At the end of the day, you are often talking marginal differences here and it is usually the engine and riding position that matters more than the rest of this stuff. FWIW, here's some stuff that should help understand it all better though:

Weight vs Aero - Cervélo

Road Bike Action | Pinarello Versus Cervelo: Two World Tour Bikes ? A World Apart

The Rinard Frame Deflection Test

Road Bike Action | Being There: Giant Targets The Climbers With New TCR Road Bike

Dave Moulton's Blog - Dave Moulton's Bike Blog - Lighter is not necessarily*faster

Most people turn to chain catchers and/or chain stay protectors to protect their frames (I think the Transonic comes with an integrated chain catcher btw):

Eurobike 2011: The rise and rise of the chain catcher | road.cc

Lizard Skins Clear Skin Road Chainstay Protector | Competitive Cyclist


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Many people are riding at a recreational level at which I think the perception of better climbing on one bike vs another is basically placebo effect. We're told the aero bikes stay fast on the flats but are a tiny bit heavier and therefore don't climb as well. I'm on a Scott Addict and definitely love how it climbs, but I'm sure a more advanced rider on a Scott Foil would drop me on a hill and the fact that I have the "climber's bike" would be a zero factor. 

You're probably in for less bumps and other events that could lead to chain flying off compared to MTB, as long as the limit adjusters are set right on the derailleurs you don't need to worry too much about protecting frame from chain. I guess you could throw on a chain catcher, those are small and cheap.

Full Ultegra for $1400 on the 2014 SST? Is it 11-speed 6800 Ultegra? Does seem like a good deal, was it a demo bike or an unpopular color? As many have said, with your ~$1500 budget you're likely not going to go wrong, and will be able to get a 105-equipped bike if not 105/Ultegra combo.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Rashadabd said:


> At the end of the day, you are often talking marginal differences here and it is usually the engine and riding position that matters more than the rest of this stuff.


OP, re: your questions on a bikes climbing ability, the above (IMO) sums it up. That, and jetdog's opinion that it's (to some extent) a placebo effect.

Even if a cyclist took a scientific approach and did a controlled study, the bike he or she *wanted* to be faster probably would be, because they'd be pushing harder to make it so. 

But it really comes down to power to weight ratios - the riders power versus total weight (bike and rider). Beyond that, fit is important, because you can't output your power if you aren't positioned correctly on a bike. 

Re: the chain catcher, MTBing isn't road riding. In my 30 years of road riding, I've never damaged a frame to the extent it's needed repair due to chain issues. Crashes, yes, but that's a whole 'nother topic.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Came home with a new bike! I did end up buying the 14' Fuji SST for $1,350 (white seat was dirty from test rides so he offered to take $50 off). The C-dale/Giant shop just didn't have any road bikes in my price range. They were either entry level or to far above my budget



jetdog9 said:


> Full Ultegra for $1400 on the 2014 SST? Is it 11-speed 6800 Ultegra? Does seem like a good deal, was it a demo bike or an unpopular color? As many have said, with your ~$1500 budget you're likely not going to go wrong, and will be able to get a 105-equipped bike if not 105/Ultegra combo.


The bike was not a demo but it has had quite a few test rides. Its flat black with a white seat and white bar wrap. The bike looks awesome especially with red anodized trim even down to spoke nipples and cable ends! The crank is FSA but the rest of the drivetran is Ultegra with an 11 speed cassette. Crank is 50/43t with an 11-28 cassette which is what I wanted. The wheels are Oval 527 with Tektro brakes. It weighed in at 18lbs without pedals.

I went over every inch of the bike as I usually do with any new to me bike. I'm really wondering who assembled it. Nothing major, mostly a misplaced shim in the headset. It was causing the bearing cover to rub on the frame. No frame damage but it was obvious to feel when you turned the handlebars. Also had to tighten the cable tension on the derailleurs. Especially on the front so the trim worked correctly. Strangely there was a strip of duct tape on both brake calipers behind the quick release. It was a pain the clean the adhesive residue off. The other bikes I've bought there were assembled with great excellent to detail. I guess they can't be perfect.

I'm hoping to ride it Sunday!


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Photo time!!!








I'm not sure if I like the seat bag. I was actually thinking about riding with a camelbak. I wouldn't wanna ruin the aero of my frame after all .


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Congrats! _Very_ nice! :thumbsup:

None of the assembly/ tuning issues surprise me. Things shouldn't be that way, but unfortunately, they sometimes are. It's good that you're proficient in bike mechanics to recognize and fix problems, and is a lesson for noobs... learn how to work on your bike. Saves time and money, and you care more about your bike(s) than anyone. 

That saddle bag is about the size of mine. Trust me, you'll be glad you have it when it comes time to change a flat. Re: the Camelbak, I think it's more trouble than it's worth for road riding, but I'm a minimalist.


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## 80turbota (Dec 3, 2011)

Nice machine. You will get many many miles of enjoyment out of it.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> Congrats! _Very_ nice! :thumbsup:
> 
> None of the assembly/ tuning issues surprise me. Things shouldn't be that way, but unfortunately, they sometimes are. It's good that you're proficient in bike mechanics to recognize and fix problems, and is a lesson for noobs... learn how to work on your bike. Saves time and money, and you care more about your bike(s) than anyone.
> 
> That saddle bag is about the size of mine. Trust me, you'll be glad you have it when it comes time to change a flat. Re: the Camelbak, I think it's more trouble than it's worth for road riding, but I'm a minimalist.


Thanks, I learned bike maintenance from my first cheap mountain bike. I would be a little more hesitant if this were my first bike! There are plenty of adjustments that can be learned without risking breaking things though. YouTube can be a big help now.

I forgot to pick up a bottle cage so if I ride this weekend it will be with a camelbak. Mine is pretty small and low profile but will still easily fit anything I might need. Do you carry a cell phone with you? I won't be able to fit mine in the saddle bag which I'm trying to figure out how to manage without a camelbak.

Thanks for everyone's help! I may have ended up with the same bike anyway but it was a crash course on learning road bike components and frame features! A little unfortunate I couldn't test ride more bikes. I "could" have test rode a Cannondale supersix but it was a little out of budget and I didn't want to be tempted to buy it. The Fuji looks way better anyway! I'm sure I'll have more questions that come up.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> Thanks, I learned bike maintenance from my first cheap mountain bike. I would be a little more hesitant if this were my first bike! *There are plenty of adjustments that can be learned without risking breaking things though. YouTube can be a big help now.*


Absolutely. When I started working on bikes back in the early 90's I picked up a bicycle maintenance guide and never looked back. As I mentioned previously, doing your own work saves time and money.. and we care more about our bikes than others. 



Fajita Dave said:


> I forgot to pick up a bottle cage so if I ride this weekend it will be with a camelbak. Mine is pretty small and low profile but will still easily fit anything I might need. Do you carry a cell phone with you? I won't be able to fit mine in the saddle bag which I'm trying to figure out how to manage without a camelbak.


Short term, I think your Camelbak will work ok, but I suggest picking up a couple of insulated Camelbaks and cages...

CamelBak Podium Big Chill Insulated Water Bottle - 25 fl. oz. - REI.com

I do bring along my cell phone. I put it in a zip lock bag and put it in my jersey pocket. Never had to use it, because :::knocking on wood::: I was always prepared - mainly for flat repairs.

Here's my list of 'essentials' in case you decide on a medium sized bag.

Wedge saddle bag - medium (Topeak/ Specialized are two good brands)
Tire levers
Spare tube
Patch kit
Piece of old tube or 1$ bill to use as a 'boot'
Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 inflator
2-3 12-16g unthreaded carts (I get the 12g's by the box at Walmart)
Multitool w/ chain breaker
Mini-pump (if you don't trust CO2 alone)

Not essential, but nice to have:
Road ID
Rag/ paper towels
Latex gloves
Waterless soap (Gojo, or similar)
A second tube, if it'll fit

Optional:
Mini-pump
Lights

I would strongly recommend a Road ID bracelet. Their basic model (Wrist ID Sport) will do. Also, a floor pump, but keep that home. ; )

EDIT: Two more things. 1) A computer with cadence function. Wired or wireless, depending on preferences/ budget. FWIW, I like Cateyes. 2) Camelbak Podium insulated bottles. I think there's both a chill and big version.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Fajita Dave said:


> Came home with a new bike! I did end up buying the 14' Fuji SST for $1,350 (white seat was dirty from test rides so he offered to take $50 off). The C-dale/Giant shop just didn't have any road bikes in my price range. They were either entry level or to far above my budget
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Congratulations man! That's a good deal. Post pics when you get a chance.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

PJ352 said:


> Absolutely. When I started working on bikes back in the early 90's I picked up a bicycle maintenance guide and never looked back. As I mentioned previously, doing your own work saves time and money.. and we care more about our bikes than others.
> 
> 
> Short term, I think your Camelbak will work ok, but I suggest picking up a couple of insulated Camelbaks and cages...
> ...


Right now I do have a medium saddle bag. I have two tubes, patch kit, two tire levers, small threaded air chuck and four 20g threaded cartridges in it. Only space left is for car keys. Thats a good idea with the piece of a tube. I can cut pieces out of an old mtb tube. I only weigh 145lbs so I imagine flats wont really be an issue. I just don't want to be stranded 10 miles from my car! I never broke a chain but I can fit a small parktool chain breaker and multi-tool in the bag if I take the 2nd tube out. Is an extra master link necessary or just make it one link short to get home?

I use GPS on my phone which is partially why I want to keep it on me. Having a cadence meter would be very nice; I didn't even consider that.

I'll probably get a bottle cage and insulated bottle next week. The road ID is a very good idea. I am concerned about hitting a deer or being hit by a car.

Does anyone ride after roads have been salted? Obviously the frame can't corrode but I imagine you'd need to disassemble and clean the headset, hubs, brakes and drive tran to prevent corrosion. Or is it not a big deal since everything is aluminum and carbon anyway?

I'll be sure to take some pictures on tomorrow's ride.


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## kjdhawkhill (Jan 29, 2011)

Don't ditch the 2nd tube. Ditch one of the 4 cartridges. Its not hard to double flat, but if you have any idea what you're doing, you shouldn't screw up a flat change 3 times. Just make sure you clear the tire of the offending object before using the 1st cartridge. 

People always get comfort from the road id, but I go with the practical aspect : any EMTs who arrive will treat me to the best of their ability, as a general member of the public, and there's a good chance the won't even look for an ID on a non-medical bracelet. The nurses and doctors also will. I have no allergies or significant medical conditions, and should something catastrophic happen on the road, my wife won't be terribly well consoled to "be there when I go." She'll have bigger adjustments to make than watching bad television while some surgeon tries and possibly fails to piece me back together. Sure, if I had some condition that could aid in treatment it would be a sound investment, but I don't, and the rest is just emotional piece of mind. Road ID evangelists drive me insane. 

You're less likely to break a chain on the road than on the dirt, but it could happen and having a quick link and/or a chain tool can't hurt. 

Just ride. Enjoy the ride. People (including me) are always over thinking it. Its really not all that complicated. The finer points you'll figure out after a few longer rides.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> Right now I do have a medium saddle bag. I have two tubes, patch kit, two tire levers, small threaded air chuck and four 20g threaded cartridges in it. Only space left is for car keys. Thats a good idea with the piece of a tube. I can cut pieces out of an old mtb tube. I only weigh 145lbs so I imagine flats wont really be an issue. I just don't want to be stranded 10 miles from my car! I never broke a chain but I can fit a small parktool chain breaker and multi-tool in the bag if I take the 2nd tube out. Is an extra master link necessary or just make it one link short to get home?
> 
> I use GPS on my phone which is partially why I want to keep it on me. Having a cadence meter would be very nice; I didn't even consider that.
> 
> ...


Unless you underinflate tires and pinch flat, weight has little to do with flatting - environment does. I weigh a little less than you, live in the SW and have flatted 2,3,4 times in a week due to goat heads. So, no, don't ditch the 2nd tube.

Re: breakdowns of any sort; a well maintained bike is much less likely to leave you stranded, but it can happen. I've road ridden for 30 years and never needed a chain tool. As always, YMMV.

You have to decide on the road ID. Folks always talk about EMT's, etc. not looking at them, but if you're found by a passerby, they'd at least have some additional info about you (name, contacts). It stands to reason that a 911 call is a first priority.

Re: the GPS, I'm old school, so I use basic HRM's and bike computers. I would recommend some sort of cadence function on whatever you decide to use. IMO it's a good tool for beginners, but it doesn't replace reading up on the topic. Working at getting to *your* cadence range is integral to becoming a good rider. 

Re: salted roads. If it's dry salt, it's basically like riding on gravel, so tailor your riding accordingly. Wet means potential corrosion, so it would be wise to (at least) wipe down your bike and affected components after those rides. Most modern assemblies (headsets, BB's) have dust/ dirt seals, so I don't see it necessary to disassemble after rides unless you think there's a reason to do so. 

I had a couple of steel bikes back when I lived in NY and was less than diligent about care and both rusted. You're right, alu and CF are far less susceptible, but I'd still wipe the frames down.


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

PJ352 said:


> Re: salted roads. If it's dry salt, it's basically like riding on gravel, so tailor your riding accordingly. Wet means potential corrosion, ...


Salt on the road won't be dry unless it is VERY cold out. There will be moisture on and around it (from the air if not from the ground), and bits of it will fly up and stick to the bike. Even when it is very cold, the salt will get turned to dust by passing vehicles, and fly up and stick to the bike. Salt on the road means every bit of water or dust from the road will be salty.

Wet salted roads are worse, no doubt. Salt gets everywhere, quickly. But anyone who thinks just because the roads look dry they won't be dealing with corrosion will be in for a surprise after not too long, should they live in an area that salts.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

QuiQuaeQuod said:


> Salt on the road won't be dry unless it is VERY cold out. There will be moisture on and around it (from the air if not from the ground), and bits of it will fly up and stick to the bike. Even when it is very cold, the salt will get turned to dust by passing vehicles, and fly up and stick to the bike. Salt on the road means every bit of water or dust from the road will be salty.


Our experiences (and probably climates) differ. Road salt _can_ be dry, but I agree that the dust can be a factor.. for breathing as well as affecting bike frames.

As far as salt turning to dust by passing cars, where they navigate, yes, but not so much on shoulders/ bike lanes. It's stays gravelly for quite some time IME.

But the bottom line is the same. Take some time to wipe down your bike after riding in similar conditions.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Luckily there was no road salt on Skyline Drive yet! I love bike maintenance so I won't mind detail cleaning after salty rides. Road cycling is harder than I was expecting. Even on downhills you never get any real break. You either fight gravity or you're fighting wind resistance. I had a blast though and broke 40mph! Only rode 20 miles with 1,600ft of climbing but I averaged 15mph. I can certainly see how small ergonomic changes can go a long way. Using a camelbak worked out for this ride. I overdressed and stuffed the extra layers in my pack.

A few of the that things I learned on my first real road ride:
My pedaling technique sucks.
Aero is no joke! Especially with what you're wearing.
The body position on a road bike uses different muscle groups than mountain biking. My ham strings were killing me instead of thighs.
Small sticks are extremely harsh to hit at 30mph.
Maintaining 20mph uphill is extremely satisfying but difficult.
Long hills that I go 40mph down I can only maintain 8mph back up!
I love the super stiff frame for standing sprints.
The camelbak has got to go.
A reminder that failing to unclip and falling over sucks.
The scenery is beautiful that you normally can't see while driving; especially the wildlife.
Road riding is here to stay in my life!








After the ride I stopped by Performance. I bought a bottle cage and a camelbak bottle. The valve is pretty nice; I'm sure the easy operation is perfect when you're exhausted.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

More photos


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Looks sharp, and great that you got a good deal on it. Happy riding!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Beautiful scenery. Thanks for sharing the pics and your riding impressions. 

On the topic of pedaling technique, here are a couple of links you may find interesting/ helpful:

Cycling Cadence

VIDEO: Pedaling Technique

CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -

Even with a MTB'ing background, acclimation to road riding takes time. You seems to have good basic fitness to start, so as saddle time builds, your performance and technique _will _improve. But (as you're doing) take time to enjoy the ride.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

Thanks jetdog! 



PJ352 said:


> Beautiful scenery. Thanks for sharing the pics and your riding impressions.
> 
> On the topic of pedaling technique, here are a couple of links you may find interesting/ helpful:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the links. The first link was especially helpful. Its a little counter intuitive that a slower cadence uses the fast twitch muscles. I've become accustomed to a slow cadence on the mtb and did have trouble with extended climbing. This might explain why.

HRM and cycle computer with cadence are next on my shopping list.


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

PJ352 said:


> As far as salt turning to dust by passing cars, where they navigate, yes, but not so much on shoulders/ bike lanes. It's stays gravelly for quite some time IME.


After a while, the shoulders and bike lanes are WORSE than the car lanes. Roads are canted to the outside, cars splash water and slush to the shoulder, salt water melt runs to the sides, etc etc etc.

Look for the white residue when it dries out after a snow/salting, and you will see lots of white on the side of the road and very little in the traffic lanes. That's salt dust.


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## Fajita Dave (Dec 1, 2015)

QuiQuaeQuod said:


> After a while, the shoulders and bike lanes are WORSE than the car lanes. Roads are canted to the outside, cars splash water and slush to the shoulder, salt water melt runs to the sides, etc etc etc.
> 
> Look for the white residue when it dries out after a snow/salting, and you will see lots of white on the side of the road and very little in the traffic lanes. That's salt dust.


There are no bike lanes around here. I'll probably scope out how bad the roads are before I ride. I'll be able to ride in the tire tracks but if I can't move to the right further it will probably be a bad idea to ride. Lots of somewhat narrow country roads. 

I know what you guys are saying about salt dust and the fresh granular salt. I could imagine the fresh salt would be worse than gravel. Worst case is I'll just stick with mountain biking until things clear up.

On the plus side while conditions are good. I found a 60 mile loop that I can start literally at the end of my driveway. A segment starts 500ft down the road.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Fajita Dave said:


> There are no bike lanes around here. I'll probably scope out how bad the roads are before I ride. I'll be able to ride in the tire tracks but if I can't move to the right further it will probably be a bad idea to ride. Lots of somewhat narrow country roads.
> 
> I know what you guys are saying about salt dust and the fresh granular salt. I could imagine the fresh salt would be worse than gravel. Worst case is I'll just stick with mountain biking until things clear up.
> 
> On the plus side while conditions are good. I found a 60 mile loop that I can start literally at the end of my driveway. A segment starts 500ft down the road.


To be sure, check your states DOT regulations, but most (if not all) allow cyclists to take a lane when needed. 

Here's an excerpt from a NYC DOT site:
Use marked bike lanes or paths when available, except when making turns or when it is unsafe to do so.* If the road is too narrow for a bicycle and a car to travel safely side by side, you have the right to ride in the middle of the travel lane. *Bicycling is permitted on all main and local streets throughout the City, even when no designated route exists. 

Source:
NYC DOT - Bike Smart

I generally temper 'rights' with exercising due diligence/ good judgment. Knocking on wood, it's served me well for 30 years of road riding. 

Re: salt, my attitude is bikes aren't very stable traversing any loose material, be it stones, sticks, salt... very well. When they're encountered, avoid braking/ turning and coast through the material as best you can. Not exactly the same environmentals, but having a MTB background should give you an edge in this regard.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Laws in the cyclist's favor not withstanding, suggest a mirror [to lower odds a tad] if you ride in such situations. Keep well in mind legally right and hit by a 2+ ton projectile with a few extra Gs for good measure will leave the cyclist on the loosing end.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

robt57 said:


> Laws in the cyclist's favor not withstanding, suggest a mirror [to lower odds a tad] if you ride in such situations. *Keep well in mind legally right and hit by a 2+ ton projectile with a few extra Gs for good measure will leave the cyclist on the loosing end.*


Well put. And I will second the mirror suggestion. A necessity, IMHO.


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

Fajita Dave said:


> There are no bike lanes around here. I'll probably scope out how bad the roads are before I ride.


Chances are you can find traffic volume data for your state for roads... stick to the lower volume roads and you will likely be fine. Find low volume roads that parallel high volume roads (but are twisty or through residential neighborhoods), and those will probably be very good to ride.

My state has free maps of every county, with color codes for good cycling roads (low volume). Your state might, or might not. But the traffic volume data plus a good map usually can do the trick to get you on the route to good routes.


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