# My Bianchi C2C Infinito is slower than $1000 entry bikes. What's wrong?



## dinga (Oct 23, 2015)

All,

This is my first post.

I bought a used Bianchi C2C Infinito 2010 model. It has all original components.
I can top speed at 30mph on my Felt S32 tri bike and Specialized Elite Sport bike, and my average speed of 20~30 mile flat road ride is about 20+mph. However, so far with this Bianchi I could only go up to 28mph, and my usual 20~30 mile ride is averaged at 19~19.5mph. 

I expected I would get at least 2mph faster with this Bianchi, but to my disappointment it is a bit slower. Actually, it needs a little bit of tune up. I see that the rear break pad touches tiny bit of the side rim of the rear wheel. Just tiny bit. And at the fastest gear I hear a tiny bit of chain noise, maybe the chain touching the front derailleur. 

I will get a professional tune up pretty soon, but I just wonder whether the small touching would make such a big difference?

Is Bianchi C2C Infinito supposed to be a fast bike that pros or advanced armatures would take to road races? Or, is it more for a long ride with comfort, but not much for speed?

Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

Of course it depends a lot on set-up, but the Infinito is designed for rougher road surfaces, such as cobblestones. As part of this, the designers made it so you sit slightly more upright on the bicycle. It is remotely possible that this accounts for the speed difference.


----------



## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

dinga said:


> my usual 20~30 mile ride is averaged at. . .
> 
> 
> . . . I see that the rear break pad touches tiny bit of the side rim of the rear wheel. Just tiny bit.


A tiny bit while you are looking at sitting still spinning the wheel? Maybe less than a tiny bit while you are pushing some watts...


How are the bars in relation to height as compared to your faster bikes [as in the bike you are faster on] 



I bet it rides a bunch better than any 1000.00 bike though, does it not?


----------



## Volsung (Apr 12, 2012)

Could be hub drag, tire differences, anything. You'll need to narrow it down more.


----------



## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

The price of the bike does not determine how fast you go. You seriously "expected" wrong if you thought you'd get a magic 2MPH gain.


----------



## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

At your target speeds of 20 mph or higher, *wind resistance *is by far the biggest factor. Your Infinito might have cheaper tires with more rolling resistance, the chain might use a couple more watts in friction, or those brakes might be rubbing a little. But those things use way less watts than punching through the air.

For instance, see this bike speed calculator. 

Taking the default settings, but changing to "drops" on both columns:
*170* watts gives *20.01 *mph.
*215* watts gives *21.90* mph. That's 25% more power to go 2 mph faster!

Set both columns to 215 watts, and change the hand positions.
*215* watts in the "*drops*" is 21.90 mph.
*215* watts on the "*hoods*" is only 20.21 mph. It's a lot less aero. 

Staying aero is key.

The Infinito probably has a slightly higher head tube, and the bars and shifters may be set up differently. If you are sitting a little higher, that's a big difference. That can be lowered (if it's good for your riding position) by removing the stem spacers, flipping the stem, rotating the bars slightly, etc.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
And 2 mph is a lot over a race distance. For instance, over 25 miles, going 22 instead of 20 mph is 6.8 minutes faster, or 2.5 miles ahead of the 20 mph rider. Racers would pay huge bucks for that advantage!


----------



## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

the comparisons are not very scientific and contain all kinds of vague data points.

you're probably as fast on one bike as the other, it's the 'measurements' you're using that's the problem.


----------



## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

I have the newer model Infinito. I'm considerably faster on it. Probably not top speed faster, but faster on the whole ride. And I'll ride much longer distances comfortably. 

The bike fits me correctly, and I can ride in the drops easily, instead of occasionally. And it's better on rough roads, both more comfortable and probably a little lower wasted watts from the bike bouncing up and down.


----------



## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

I am having trouble getting past the "advanced armatures" to be able to offer any insight. I do see a trend towards longer head tubes with lots of spacers though.


----------



## vic bastige (Jan 22, 2004)

are the crank length and cassette the same on both?


----------



## dinga (Oct 23, 2015)

Thanks for all posts.
I would agree that the riding position matters a lot. Bianchi is less aero than my Specialized and Felt. I will see if I can change the riding position a little bit and making it more aerodynamic. Anyway, it seems getting 2mph faster is not realistic. 

Advanced amateurs, according to me, means competitive amateur riders who gets 24+ mph average in 20~30 mile road races on the flat road. 

However, it still does not explain the top speed. I cannot go over 30mph with Bianchi while I can do with others. I wonder whether the gear ratio matters?
According to the spec,
Crankset Shimano ULTEGRA Compact 50/34

Does it say anything? I am not sure about the numbers.


----------



## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

You may be missing your 53.


----------



## spdntrxi (Jul 25, 2013)

A compact drivetrain is not the limiter to 30mph


----------



## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

dinga said:


> Thanks for all posts.
> I would agree that the riding position matters a lot. Bianchi is less aero than my Specialized and Felt. I will see if I can change the riding position a little bit and making it more aerodynamic. Anyway, it seems getting 2mph faster is not realistic.
> 
> Advanced amateurs, according to me, means competitive amateur riders who gets 24+ mph average in 20~30 mile road races on the flat road.
> ...


Speedometer calibration.


----------



## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

Maybe not, but it doesn't help when you're used to a standard crank.


----------



## dinga (Oct 23, 2015)

OK,
Now I got it. I've heard of those different crank sets and different number of gears in cassettes, but I did not know their differences.
Basically, the compact crank with 10 rear gears will be slower than the standard crankset with 11 rear gears in top speed! My two other bikes are with 53/39 crankset.
I am riding in mostly flat area, so I won't get much help from this compact crankset. Looks like I got a wrong bike.:mad2:
Well, I guess I need to make myself get used to the compact crank. 
As for the speed, I am sure it will be a bit faster once the bike is tuned up with high seating position (more aerodynamic).

Again, thanks for all your help.


----------



## tlg (May 11, 2011)

dinga said:


> I am riding in mostly flat area, so I won't get much help from this compact crankset. Looks like I got a wrong bike.:mad2:


You didn't get the wrong bike. You got the wrong crank. You do realize you can put a different crank on your bike... right?


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

Whatever speed you get is a direct result of how much power you are developing. All gearing does is change the cadence and torque relationship to get the same amount of power. If you are developing the same power, then all other things being equal, you should be getting the same speed, gearing be damned. So either you are developing less power, or the other things that consume power (aerodynamic drag, drivetrain losses, rolling resistance, etc.) are not equal. At the speeds you cite, and the differences in bikes, drag would be the most likely difference.


----------



## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

Horses for courses.


----------



## GKSki (Nov 12, 2014)

It's not all science. There's a human involved and he is used to turning a 53/39.


----------



## dinga (Oct 23, 2015)

With a few more reading, I've realized that the 25/12 cassette can be changed to 25/11 cassette to increase the top speed.
I will think about the option. 50/11 would make it about 3 mph faster than 50/12 at 100 rpm. I may not need that top speed often. Only when at the final stretch in group ride or road race.
Then, the next question is, is it easy (and cheap) to change 25/12 to 25/11 cassette?


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

GKSki said:


> It's not all science. There's a human involved and he is used to turning a 53/39.


The physicis is real simple. The chainring alone doesn't mean much, other than at the limits. But I take it your point is he's developing less power, even on average.


----------



## tlg (May 11, 2011)

dinga said:


> Then, the next question is, is it easy (and cheap) to change 25/12 to 25/11 cassette?


With the right tools... takes about 1min to swap a cassette.

Cassette and Freewheel Removal and Installation - Park Tool


----------



## Volsung (Apr 12, 2012)

Unless you're constantly using 50/12 and spinning out, going to 50/11 or 53/11 isn't going to change much.

Get better tires. Then wheels. Then shave your legs, arms, and eyebrows for max aero.


----------

