# 2011 Tarmac sl2 sl3 headset



## vs779 (Feb 22, 2005)

I have a sl2 and sl3 both seem to have a issue. When you rock the front end back and fourth the headset knocks like its loose. I have had the bikes at the shop and a few guys checked it out and adjusted. It seems fine after the adjustment but comes back a week or so. Anyone?


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

vs779 said:


> I have a sl2 and sl3 both seem to have a issue. When you rock the front end back and fourth the headset knocks like its loose. I have had the bikes at the shop and a few guys checked it out and adjusted. It seems fine after the adjustment but comes back a week or so. Anyone?


If pre-loading the bearings dials out the looseness and it returns after a few rides, that tells me the stem is slipping on the steerer tube causing play in the assembly. I don't use any CF paste of grease on the steerer/ stem interface, but given this issue you might want to try CF paste.


----------



## vs779 (Feb 22, 2005)

I not sure what to think but others must have the same issue because this is two bikes with the same issue. It almost feels like the bearings may be moving up and down or maybe side to side. It is almost a clicking type sound when you pull up on the bars. Now if I hold the fork off the ground and shake it no noise or play at all. Strange


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

vs779 said:


> I not sure what to think but others must have the same issue because this is two bikes with the same issue. It almost feels like the bearings may be moving up and down or maybe side to side. It is almost a clicking type sound when you pull up on the bars. Now if I hold the fork off the ground and shake it no noise or play at all. Strange


The bearings most likely are moving inside the assembly, but no matter the method used to check for play, there should be none.

If the headsets have never been overhauled, ask the mechanic to do so. I still think something is working loose while you ride, but at least tearing the assembly down may shed light on another/ contributing factor.

I'm assuming you have the same LBS/ mechanic do all your work, so that could be a contributing factor as well. IME some LBS wrenches are better than others.


----------



## vs779 (Feb 22, 2005)

I went to the shop and the head mechanic rides a sl3 so we went and got his bike and you know what it did the same thing.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

vs779 said:


> I went to the shop and the head mechanic rides a sl3 so we went and got his bike and you know what it did the same thing.


Be that as it may, IME a properly installed/ lubed/ adjusted headset assembly shows no signs of looseness (or conversely, binding when the bars are turned left/ right) and makes no knocking noises.

My question to your head mechanic would be, when is the headset properly adjusted. Just after an adjustment is made and it doesn't make noise or exhibit looseness, or after a few rides when it does? 

FWIW, neither my '08 Tarmac Comp or my '11 Pro have the symptoms you describe.


----------



## vs779 (Feb 22, 2005)

*Pj*

Put your left palm over your front tire.

Grab the top of the bars with your right hand and pull up. Also give a pull up on the stem and the other side of the bar top. Take hand off tire. This will create the play. You may or may not feel anything yet. 


Now grab your bars in the drops and give a quick push down you should hear or feel a click. Make sure you are on a hard surface. You should not hold the brakes on.

Let me know

Maybe some others could give it a try.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

vs779 said:


> Put your left palm over your front tire.
> 
> Grab the top of the bars with your right hand and pull up. Also give a pull up on the stem and the other side of the bar top. Take hand off tire. This will create the play. You may or may not feel anything yet.
> 
> ...


I did as you asked on both bikes. No looseness, no play, no noise on either.

For the record, this method exerts the same forces:
Left hand in drops (front brake firmly applied), right hand on saddle. alternately, push forward/ back on the saddle and note any looseness/ play/ noise in the upper/ lower HT areas. If any are present, either the bearing preload is insufficient or something is worn/ out of spec in the headset assembly or frame (cups).

I'm not trying to be the contrarian here, but there's something not right with you bikes. To diagnose, I'd start with the quicker and easier remedies first and if unsuccessful, then expand to disassembling, cleaning, examining all parts and how they fit (especially bearings/ cups and frame), and proceed based on findings.


----------



## Johnboy151 (Mar 11, 2012)

You have to tighten the top cap over the steerer tube before tightening the the pinch bolts on the stem. The top cap provides the preload on the bearings. Hope this helps.


----------



## jnbrown (Dec 9, 2009)

I had an issue with my SL3 where it would feel loose even after tightening it to the point of it binding.
Mostly I noticed when standing it would make a creaking noise.
The mechanic took it apart and added two very thin washers on top of the bearing.
This solved the problem completely.


----------

