# Specialized Allez Steel Double



## george kraushaar

I checked out one of these today. I really loved the 520 steel tig welded frame and steel lugged fork! I actually thought the fork was so attractive it could grace my DeRosa. The frame had a rather tight geometry but also featured rack mount points on the seat stays and drop out for versatility. The frame workmanship looked fine, close to what you might expect from a Gunnar. The frame is probably heavier than a Gunnar, however.

The component choice is where Specialized saves the money. The 2300 series is coated in that silver plastic once seen on 105 parts back in the 90s. The crankset looks particularly cheap, what with steel chainwheels. The pedals are cheap plastic with toe clips. I can't believe I used to use those things! The brakes are black no name calipers and fairly nice levers. The aheadset stem and bars are silver. The Alex hubs and rims are also finished in natural aluminum. The downtube shifters are silver. The seatpost and seat looked okay. It would have been nice to have all the components one color or the other, but they're probably clearing out the parts bin.

I took the bike for a little ride and was fairly impressed with the potential. The ride was classic steel, very comfortable and compliant. I would compare it favorably to my DeRosa and Waterford Paramount. I could live with the shifters and derailleurs, but would probably want to change out the crank to compact, if I could find one at a reasonable cost (I live in the mountains). The chinzy pedals would have to go as well.

I actually think Specialized has a winner here. I'm going to talk to the owner of the LBS tomorrow about price. I would think that it would be somewhere about $600 with tax. Pretty good deal for a bike with a really neat frame.


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## rcnute

I'll give them effort points but they failed in the execution.


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## SystemShock

I second what rcnute said. If they'd just spent a tiny bit more on parts and come in at like $650 or even $699, I think it would've been very compelling.

That said, if I got one, I'd probably be changing out most of the obvious cheap parts regardless... crank, pedals, etc.
.


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## Dave Hickey

Thanks for the review...I'm going to check one out in person.....I'd probably change out the rings, pedals, and saddle..I think it would make a great travel/winter/rain bike


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## PJ352

Great review, thanks for posting! 

I think for $600 +/- the bike is a relative bargain. What I've always called the heart of the bike was the frameset, and I think Spec has a winner in that regard. I'd suspect most potential buyers would be 'seasoned' riders who would tinker with whatever bike they ended up with.

My only complaint (albeit, minor) is the shortish HT length. The OP mentioned Gunnar (good comparison, IMO) and a 52 cm Roadie has a HTL of 117 mm, while the Allez's 52 cm is 97 mm. Seems odd.


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## Dave Hickey

PJ352 said:


> What I've always called the heart of the bike was the frameset, and I think Spec has a winner in that regard.
> 
> .



+1...my feeling exactly......


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## SystemShock

PJ352 said:


> What I've always called the heart of the bike was the frameset, and I think Spec has a winner in that regard. I'd suspect most potential buyers would be 'seasoned' riders who would tinker with whatever bike they ended up with.


I'd disagree a bit with that. 

While some of us here at RBR would look at this Specialized as a neat-o retro second or third bike, the price point is entry-level, and will no doubt attract a lot of first-time bike buyers who aren't near as savvy as we are about swappin' out the cheap bits. 

Which is a good reason to not spec bits that are _too_ cheap, as Spesh may've done here.

That said, I think entry-level steel bikes are a good idea, and am happy that Spesh did one.
.


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## PJ352

SystemShock said:


> I'd disagree a bit with that.
> 
> While some of us here at RBR would look at this Specialized as a neat-o retro second or third bike, the price point is entry-level, and will no doubt attract a lot of first-time bike buyers who aren't near as savvy as we are about swappin' out the cheap bits.
> 
> Which is a good reason to not spec bits that are _too_ cheap, as Spesh may've done here.
> 
> That said, I think entry-level steel bikes are a good idea, and am happy that Spesh did one.
> .


In the interest of continuing this 'disagreement'...  

IME many entry level buyers not only _don't_ want d/ tube shifters, they don't want Sora/ 8 spd and skip over Tiagra longing for 105. This is before throwing a leg over a TT, because they've researched, poked around sites like BD and found that they can have a 105 equipped bike for $800. And speaking of BD, they must agree with me because the sell NO bikes with d/ tube shifters.

Sure, some savvy buyers new and old alike will go for the Steel Allez, but I still think the majority will be more experienced.

And just for the record, my comments aren't meant to criticize noobs in any way. I spend a fair amount of time in the beginners forum and they're a good bunch to work with, but what I've offered I've experienced - many times. 

Lastly, it seems a contradiction to me when you say the Allez is entry level priced, but then take issue with the fact that there's componentry that's 'too cheap'. IMO/E, you can have one or the other, but (almost) never both.


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## Dave Hickey

PJ352 said:


> In the interest of continuing this 'disagreement'...
> 
> IME many entry level buyers not only _don't_ want d/ tube shifters, they don't want Sora/ 8 spd and skip over Tiagra longing for 105. This is before throwing a leg over a TT, because they've researched, poked around sites like BD and found that they can have a 105 equipped bike for $800. And speaking of BD, they must agree with me because the sell NO bikes with d/ tube shifters.
> 
> Sure, some savvy buyers new and old alike will go for the Steel Allez, but I still think the majority will be more experienced.
> 
> And just for the record, my comments aren't meant to criticize noobs in any way. I spend a fair amount of time in the beginners forum and they're a good bunch to work with, but what I've offered I've experienced - many times.
> 
> Lastly, it seems a contradiction to me when you say the Allez is entry level priced, but then take issue with the fact that there's componentry that's 'too cheap'. IMO/E, you can have one or the other, but (almost) never both.



Great topic............sites like RBR are a great resource but we are a bunch of bike snobs and can be our own worst enemy.....

One can read almost daily that 105 is the "minimum" acceptable component group...That is BS.....There are hundreds of thousands of weekend warriors that ride Tiagra and Sora every weekend with no issues at all...and they are perfectly content until they come to a site like RBR where us "experts" tell them they have sub par components......

We elevate the playing field too often with our opinions and comments when at the end of the day most of us have probably never even ridden these lower end groups...

I really want one of these Specialized bikes....whether I upgrade from my parts stash will depend on the how well the spec'd group works out...

As I said, great topic and certainly open for a good debate


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## SystemShock

PJ352 said:


> In the interest of continuing this 'disagreement'...
> 
> IME many entry level buyers not only _don't_ want d/ tube shifters, they don't want Sora/ 8 spd and skip over Tiagra longing for 105. This is before throwing a leg over a TT, because they've researched, poked around sites like BD and found that they can have a 105 equipped bike for $800. And speaking of BD, they must agree with me because the sell NO bikes with d/ tube shifters.


I have no issues with BD, but I would say that the percentage of entry-level buyers who even _know_ about BD, much less actually purchase a bike from there, is quite small. Not really representative. 



> _Sure, some savvy buyers new and old alike will go for the Steel Allez, but I still think the majority will be more experienced._


I guess we could ask someone like Platypius, who's actually on the bike store floor all day long, about what's what on that. 

Dunno what he'll say either way, but it's easy for both of us to just opine.



> _Lastly, it seems a contradiction to me when you say the Allez is entry level priced, but then take issue with the fact that there's componentry that's 'too cheap'. IMO/E, you can have one or the other, but (almost) never both_.


I think we both know enough to be aware that there's a 'sweet spot' where you spend just a little bit more but end up getting significantly better parts for it.

Spesh may've thought "oh my god, it's _steel_" and felt they had to bring it in at an exceedingly low price point in order for it to sell. In doing so, they may've spec'd a little too draconically.
.


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## SystemShock

Dave Hickey said:


> Great topic............sites like RBR are a great resource but we are a bunch of bike snobs and can be our own worst enemy.....
> 
> One can read almost daily that 105 is the "minimum" acceptable component group...That is BS.....There are hundreds of thousands of weekend warriors that ride Tiagra and Sora every weekend with no issues at all...and they are perfectly content until they come to a site like RBR where us "experts" tell them they have sub par components......
> 
> We elevate the playing field too often with our opinions and comments when at the end of the day most of us have probably never even ridden these lower end groups...
> 
> I really want one of these Specialized bikes....whether I upgrade from my parts stash will depend on the how well the spec'd group works out...
> 
> As I said, great topic and certainly open for a good debate


Well said.
.


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## george kraushaar

I'm still thinking about, and can't get over the apparent quality of the frame. It's just far more appealing to me than the slightly more expensive alloy Allez frames. I'm a lover of classic steel bikes and at this price the bike seems like a great deal....even if I have to upgrade a few parts.

I had compared the Allez steel to a Gunnar. One positive difference for me is that the Allez has a traditional horizontal geometry while the Gunnar I had was a compact. I prefer traditional...

I agree that the appeal of this bike might really be more to experienced riders who can appreciate the potential of this bike than to newbies whose primary concern is price.

Having ridden and raced bikes with D/T shifters for many years before brifters hit the market, my little test ride went off without a hitch.

I've been looking at the checkbook pretty closely to decide whether I should go ahead and swing the deal.


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## SystemShock

George, have you ridden it yet? Any riding impressions?

I am hoping that this one will be a 'sleeper hit' for Spesh, and then we'll see more steel bikes in the future... :yesnod:
.


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## PJ352

You're putting far too much emphasis on my use of BD. It was simply an example to illustrate that noobs spend a lot of time browsing bike related websites (including RBR) and conjure up this mindset that 105 is a minimum requirement. 

As I mentioned, spend some time reading posts in the beginners forum and see how many noobs _don't_ know about BD (or similar) websites. And after their second or third post, someone has to inject into the 'conversation' the importance of fit, and that being a noob they should work with a LBS for sizing/ fit assistance. Some see the value in it, but some don't, thinking that the upgraded componentry at the (name the online 'store' here) is a 'better value'. Show them a bike like the Allez steel and they'll tell you they could do better going used.

As far as a 'sweet spot' in pricing, I don't disagree. But again, price that bike (or any other) much above $600 and you've lost the noob, because he'll go used/ online instead.


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## PJ352

SystemShock said:


> George, have you ridden it yet? Any riding impressions?
> 
> *I am hoping that this one will be a 'sleeper hit' for Spesh, and then we'll see more steel bikes in the future... *:yesnod:
> .


Now THAT I can agree with! :thumbsup:


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## SystemShock

PJ352 said:


> You're putting far too much emphasis on my use of BD. It was simply an example to illustrate that noobs spend a lot of time browsing bike related websites (including RBR) and conjure up this mindset that 105 is a minimum requirement.
> 
> As I mentioned, spend some time reading posts in the beginners forum and see how many noobs _don't_ know about BD (or similar) websites. And after their second or third post, someone has to inject into the 'conversation' the importance of fit, and that being a noob they should work with a LBS for sizing/ fit assistance. Some see the value in it, but some don't, thinking that the upgraded componentry at the (name the online 'store' here) is a 'better value'. Show them a bike like the Allez steel and they'll tell you they could do better going used.
> 
> As far as a 'sweet spot' in pricing, I don't disagree. But again, price that bike (or any other) much above $600 and you've lost the noob, because he'll go used/ online instead.


I don't think you're getting the context I'm talking about... there are still plenty of ppl who 'just want a bike' and do little to no hardcore internet searching before heading off to the LBS (or, god help 'em, Wal-Mart or Target).

I've seen it happen here in the Silicon Valley even, probably the most internet-savvy place on Earth.

Or, if they do go online, it'll be to some lame-o general sports equipment site, yahoo group, whatever.

Given that, the Spesh steel makes sense to the newb who hasn't been brainwashed into thinking that a CF bike with 105 STI is the 'entry level'.

They walk in, and go, "What can I afford on my budget? Oh, that red one looks sporty n' nice. And, it's not too much money."

The latter especially helps in this economy, and in the context that the entry-level road bikes from the big boys (Trek, Spesh, etc) have been rather pricey the past couple of years ($800-900). Bikes like the Trek 1.1 and Allez Steel are a welcome antidote.

Not saying that they're won't be guys like us buying the Spesh... there will be. But I think you're underestimating its wider appeal.
.


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## PJ352

SystemShock said:


> I don't think you're getting the context I'm talking about... there are still plenty of ppl who 'just want a bike' and do little to no hardcore internet searching before heading off to the LBS (or, god help 'em, Wal-Mart or Target).
> 
> * I've seen it happen here in the Silicon Valley even, probably the most internet-savvy place on Earth.*
> Or, if they do go online, it'll be to some lame-o general sports equipment site, yahoo group, whatever.
> 
> Given that, the Spesh steel makes sense to the newb who hasn't been brainwashed into thinking that a CF bike with 105 STI is the 'entry level'.
> 
> They walk in, and go, "What can I afford on my budget? Oh, that red one looks sporty n' nice. And, it's not too much money."
> 
> The latter especially helps in this economy, and in the context that the entry-level road bikes from the big boys (Trek, Spesh, etc) have been rather pricey the past couple of years ($800-900). Bikes like the Trek 1.1 and Allez Steel are a welcome antidote.
> 
> Not saying that they're won't be guys like us buying the Spesh... there will be. But I think you're underestimating its wider appeal.
> .


Ah, now we're getting to the crux of the matter. You're probably about 10 - 15 years behind the times thinking that Silicon Valley _is_ internet savvy and basing your 'argument' on your current experiences. In fact, the tech savvy people all escaped inland to AZ and NM leaving the computer illiterate behind (present 'company' excluded, of course )


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## SystemShock

PJ352 said:


> Ah, now we're getting to the crux of the matter. You're probably about 10 - 15 years behind the times thinking that Silicon Valley _is_ internet savvy and basing your 'argument' on your current experiences. In fact, the tech savvy people all escaped inland to AZ and NM leaving the computer illiterate behind (present 'company' excluded, of course )


Thank you. That was good for a laugh. :wink5:
.


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## ukbloke

george kraushaar said:


> I've been looking at the checkbook pretty closely to decide whether I should go ahead and swing the deal.


How about the Langster Steel Frameset for $440 and then build it up yourself?


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## george kraushaar

I almost pulled the trigger on this Saturday, but still feel conflicted. I do think the frame is very nice and its the heart of the bike... At least it's made in Taiwan.

It's really a very nice ride. Very classic steel.

The bike I rode had a 52cm seatube and a 53.7cm top tube. This makes for a pretty short head tube. My Paramount is 52/52 and it's too short. The Spesh is just about right.


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## PJ352

george kraushaar said:


> I almost pulled the trigger on this Saturday, but still feel conflicted. I do think the frame is very nice and its the heart of the bike... At least it's made in Taiwan.
> 
> It's really a very nice ride. Very classic steel.
> 
> *The bike I rode had a 52cm seatube and a 53.7cm top tube. This makes for a pretty short head tube. *My Paramount is 52/52 and it's too short. The Spesh is just about right.


I might not be reading this right, but ST and TT length don't dictate HT length. But I agree that the HT length on the 52 (size I ride) is short. I'm wondering what the stack height is on the headset, or better yet, the length from fork crown to top of stem. 20 cm's +/- and I'd write the check! :thumbsup:


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## george kraushaar

I don't have the measurement you ask for, but it does have a pretty substantial stack height.

I'm actually thinking about selling my old Paramount and getting this thing, although that might be a stupid idea.


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## twrecks

After reading this thread I called Spokes Etc and ordered a 54, they said that they had a 58 and 61 in stock, I get to wait a week or two. I had a 2002ish cro mo Allez Pro and loved it except for the sloping top tube, I should have kept it, sold it for a Smoothie and should have kept that too...

Depending on how I like the downtube shifters, first upgrade will be either wheels or brifters (or thinking barcons might be neat), but as it is set up I will try to get through the winter. 8 speed may be a sticky point unless I can get some used shifters or upgrade all at once to 9 or 10 speed.

I rode the aluminum Allez 2 weeks ago and liked it, did not like the cable routing for the rear brake that left the cable stretched through the air while the top tube arced back.


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## SystemShock

Don't fear the 8-speed and downtube shifters. It's surprising how much simpler they make life. Less shift, shift, shift at the drop of a hat. It's a less obsessive-compulsive way to ride.

I have a 10-spd brifter bike, and am considering getting a second bike that'll be 8-spd/DT shifters.

It could even be the Spesh, but I don't think geo suits me exactly... the chainstays are tight/short but the front-end isn't, putting too much of my weight on the rear wheel. 

I sit _very_ far back (long thighs), so this is a prob on some bikes for me. For the average person it'd be fine, I'm sure.

So, it's looking more like Craigslist if I wanna go that route. 
.


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## george kraushaar

I'm having trouble justifying a new bike unless I let another go. I currently have three; an Orbea Starship which I use for fast club rides, a classic steel DeRosa Giro d'Italia which I seem to be unable to let go, and a '91 Waterford Paramount, which could use a little refurbishing. The Campy brifters need rebuilt and the frame could just about use another refinish, although otherwise it has no problems. I actually like the Spesh frame better and it fits me a little better, although the Campy components on the Paramount certainly outclass what's on the the Allez. But since I'm not riding the Paramount much...

One of the problems with owning classic older bikes is that I develop an emotional attachment to the fact that they are rare and hard if not impossible to replace.


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## SystemShock

george kraushaar said:


> I'm having trouble justifying a new bike unless I let another go. I currently have three; an Orbea Starship which I use for fast club rides, a classic steel DeRosa Giro d'Italia which I seem to be unable to let go, and a '91 Waterford Paramount, which could use a little refurbishing. The Campy brifters need rebuilt and the frame could just about use another refinish, although otherwise it has no problems. I actually like the Spesh frame better and it fits me a little better, although the Campy components on the Paramount certainly outclass what's on the the Allez. But since I'm not riding the Paramount much...
> 
> One of the problems with owning classic older bikes is that I develop an emotional attachment to the fact that they are rare and hard if not impossible to replace.


Do you have a lot of parts or spare wheels you could sell that would add up to a significant chunk of the $600 you need for the Spesh?

That might be one way around the 'cannot let any bikes' go thing you've got going on.  
.


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## twrecks

Not a problem not shifting all the time, I have been riding my fixed gear exclusively all summer so I am ready for some relief.


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## Doctor Who

I've got my eye on one of these to use as a winter trainer and commuter. I'm a big fan of downtube shifting -- and I'm still in my 20's.  

The Allez is a fantastic deal for a great starter bike. I'm inclined to think we need more budget bikes with downtube shifters -- learning how to use those without swerving all over the place is a good way of getting good at riding a bike.


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## george kraushaar

I went ahead and pulled the trigger today and brought home the steel Allez. I had the bike shop change out the freewheel so that I could grab a few lower gears, removed all the reflectors, and stick a pair of clipless pedals on it. On the way home from the shop, I found a little ride on Thomas Valley Rd. near Whittier, NC so that I could get a better idea of how she rode.

First off, the perfomance of the frame seems very similar to my departed Gunnar. Although the Allez is traditional geometry (the Gunnar compact) both bikes are tig welded and feature beefy down tubes. The combination of the beautiful lugged steel fork and steel frame made for a very supple, yet solid ride. I think the frame is by far the best feature of this bike. The wheels are relatively heavy and you can certainly feel that heaviness in the performance. It takes a while to get them up to speed, although the bike maintains good speed when you get there. One wonders what this bike would be like with some good wheels. The shifters worked well, even being lowline 2300. The downtube shifters make for crisp, direct, and silent shifting. Having used downtube shifters for 25 years, it didn't take much to adjust to them again. I noticed that there was often some chain rub on the front derailleur, and I occasionally would have to tweak the front shifter to eliminate the rub. Overall, the bike offers a pretty good ride but I think that some lighter wheels and a compact crank might be in order for my hilly terrain.

I think it's got the basics of a pretty good bike. Everyone remarks on its classic good looks. I think that it's a pretty sick deal for $600.00. Seems like the frame alone should be worth that.


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## ksanbon

Congratulations and thanks for the report. :thumbsup:


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## PJ352

Congrats George.. another great report. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## Cervelo-er

Why don't they just offer the frameset for $300 and be done with it? Seems like this is a great alternative to the Pacer and without the hideous decals of a Kona...


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## george kraushaar

A similar Langster frameset (single speed) with chromed stays is listed at $440.00.


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## george kraushaar

I took the thing on a proper ride today in the mountains of Graham County, NC, where I live. The route begins as rolling, then descends quickly to a river crossing, another rolling hilly stretch (this all is on "chip and seal", then onto proper pavement for a two mile, 600 ft climb to 2650 ft, then down a screaming downhill (40MPH+) and onto a hilly up and down section back to the start. The route was 27 miles, I climbed 2150ft, and burnt 2050 calories (at least that's what Mr. Garmin says).

The bike did pretty well. I found out you can hit the thing pretty hard and it doesn't seem to whimper. It's a little firmer ride than my old Paramount, has good stiffness in the rear end for climbing, is rock steady on descents, and I was able to maintain decent speed on it. I did notice the heavy wheels, but everything worked as it should. It doesn't take make adjustment to reach down with a finger to flick the shift lever. The shifting was smooth and reliable on every shift.

I think this will become my go-bike for solo rides through these hills. It seems plenty tough enough to take this back mountain abuse, and I'll save my Orbea and DeRosa for the group rides where appearance is everything. The Paramount might have to go.


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## Dave Hickey

george kraushaar said:


> I took the thing on a proper ride today in the mountains of Graham County, NC, where I live. The route begins as rolling, then descends quickly to a river crossing, another rolling hilly stretch (this all is on "chip and seal", then onto proper pavement for a two mile, 600 ft climb to 2650 ft, then down a screaming downhill (40MPH+) and onto a hilly up and down section back to the start. The route was 27 miles, I climbed 2150ft, and burnt 2050 calories (at least that's what Mr. Garmin says).
> 
> The bike did pretty well. I found out you can hit the thing pretty hard and it doesn't seem to whimper. It's a little firmer ride than my old Paramount, has good stiffness in the rear end for climbing, is rock steady on descents, and I was able to maintain decent speed on it. I did notice the heavy wheels, but everything worked as it should. It doesn't take make adjustment to reach down with a finger to flick the shift lever. The shifting was smooth and reliable on every shift.
> 
> I think this will become my go-bike for solo rides through these hills. It seems plenty tough enough to take this back mountain abuse, and I'll save my Orbea and DeRosa for the group rides where appearance is everything. The Paramount might have to go.



You are doing nothing to talk me out of one of these..  ....I really want one.

Thanks for the review.....


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## ksanbon

*weight?*

George,

Any idea what the whole thing weighs?
How about the wheels?

Thanks!


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## george kraushaar

It's 24 lbs as is. I wonder what the frame weighs.


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## george kraushaar

I've had it for several weeks now and have ridden it at least 100 miles (I still alternate between my various rides). First off, this ain't no racing bike. It's at least 1 to 2 MPH slower than my real race bikes. You really notice it when you're sloggin' up a steep hill and you get out of the saddle. The heavy wheels have to hurt. But it's fun. It has a great smooth steel ride and just kind of soaks up the pavement. It's really the kind of bike where you would be better off without a speedometer, so you could forget about the issue of speed and just enjoy the ride. A mileage meter would be enough.

I almost took the bike on the Shenandoah Fall Festival bike ride in Staunton, VA last weekend but opted for the Lemond instead. It would probably have been a right comfortable ride if I have taken it.


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## SystemShock

george kraushaar said:


> I've had it for several weeks now and have ridden it at least 100 miles (I still alternate between my various rides). First off, this ain't no racing bike. It's at least 1 to 2 MPH slower than my real race bikes. You really notice it when you're sloggin' up a steep hill and you get out of the saddle. The heavy wheels have to hurt. But it's fun. It has a great smooth steel ride and just kind of soaks up the pavement. It's really the kind of bike where you would be better off without a speedometer, so you could forget about the issue of speed and just enjoy the ride. A mileage meter would be enough.
> 
> I almost took the bike on the Shenandoah Fall Festival bike ride in Staunton, VA last weekend but opted for the Lemond instead. It would probably have been a right comfortable ride if I have taken it.


Maybe swap some of your lighter-wheels onto the Allez DS, and see if that takes away most of the speed disadvantage?









It'd be a very interesting experiment... how of the 'slower-esness' is the frame (if any), and how much is the wheels.

Is it at least faster than your Gunnar was? :lol:
.


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## tihsepa

I am currious, How much tire can you fit in there? Is a 28 an option?


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## george kraushaar

I think that a 28 would fit without a problem. It's got indented stays. Are you thinking that we might have the basis of a good touring bike? It's got the rack mounting points.


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## tihsepa

george kraushaar said:


> I think that a 28 would fit without a problem. It's got indented stays. Are you thinking that we might have the basis of a good touring bike? It's got the rack mounting points.


Not so much touring. I just dont think that for the "regular guy" you need to suffer the ride quality of any tire under a 28 or so. I like clearance.


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## george kraushaar

This morning I entered the Halloween Hunard or Tour of Franklin bike ride in Franklin, NC. I was planning on riding my Orbea but I had taken the Allez Double Steel along because the sponsoring bike shop had a compact crankset I wanted installed on it. The weather was atrocious; a steady rain with temp about 50 degrees. The shop was able to install the crank before the ride so I decided to ride the Allez. Some of the other participants, especially the younger ones, couldn't believe I was actually riding a bike with downtube shifters.

Need I say that the bike rode beautifully in the inclement weather. The ride was solid, steady, and surefooted. The bike might feel heavier than the Orbea, but it was stable and secure. Everything on the bike worked just like one would expect. Might I add that I passed and left behind several riding their fancy carbon bikes.

I think I've found a perfect foul weather friend.


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## twrecks

Not sure if I should give up...I ordered a 54 in early October, at the end of October the shop said late November, now they are saying late December. I might just cancel and wait until the Spring to look for a new bike. I was really looking forward to this bike but 3 months is too long to wait for a production bike.


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## lousylegs

twrecks said:


> Not sure if I should give up...I ordered a 54 in early October, at the end of October the shop said late November, now they are saying late December. I might just cancel and wait until the Spring to look for a new bike. I was really looking forward to this bike but 3 months is too long to wait for a production bike.


Try calling around to some other Specialized shops in your area, they might have one on the show room floor.


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## buck-50

twrecks said:


> Not sure if I should give up...I ordered a 54 in early October, at the end of October the shop said late November, now they are saying late December. I might just cancel and wait until the Spring to look for a new bike. I was really looking forward to this bike but 3 months is too long to wait for a production bike.


Meh, what's another month?

Not like you'd be riding it a ton between now and when you get it anyway. Figure the store is just doing you the favor of keeping it safe from harm for another month or so.


----------



## holy cromoly

I was down at the shop and they had a couple of these in stock but not in my size.

The sales guy told me that Specialized is sold out of warehouse inventory at the moment, but a new supply is coming in January.


----------



## tihsepa

My local Specialized goon isnt even getting any. I dont like that shop anyway. Its definitely not my go to place and the only good guy left town for the winter.
I may have to get one for spring though.


----------



## greggo

Dave Hickey said:


> Great topic............sites like RBR are a great resource but we are a bunch of bike snobs and can be our own worst enemy.....
> 
> One can read almost daily that 105 is the "minimum" acceptable component group...That is BS.....There are hundreds of thousands of weekend warriors that ride Tiagra and Sora every weekend with no issues at all...and they are perfectly content until they come to a site like RBR where us "experts" tell them they have sub par components......
> 
> We elevate the playing field too often with our opinions and comments when at the end of the day most of us have probably never even ridden these lower end groups...
> 
> I really want one of these Specialized bikes....whether I upgrade from my parts stash will depend on the how well the spec'd group works out...
> 
> As I said, great topic and certainly open for a good debate


Sure is... 
I'm a component cheapskate who runs $20 Sora RD's and $20 sets of Altus cantilever brakes on both of my bikes, and have had absolutely no issues whatsoever with either...


















They perform flawlessly as cheap components with first class engineering.


----------



## holy cromoly

Dave Hickey said:


> Great topic............sites like RBR are a great resource but we are a bunch of bike snobs and can be our own worst enemy.....
> 
> One can read almost daily that 105 is the "minimum" acceptable component group...That is BS.....There are hundreds of thousands of weekend warriors that ride Tiagra and Sora every weekend with no issues at all...and they are perfectly content until they come to a site like RBR where us "experts" tell them they have sub par components......
> 
> We elevate the playing field too often with our opinions and comments when at the end of the day most of us have probably never even ridden these lower end groups...
> 
> I really want one of these Specialized bikes....whether I upgrade from my parts stash will depend on the how well the spec'd group works out...
> 
> As I said, great topic and certainly open for a good debate


I am with you on this. I think RBR can be a stew of snobbery when it comes gear. But it seems that is the nature of any enthusiast website where the activity is equipment based (skies, archery, etc...). The stew seems extra thick here though. . I'll take Sora and Tiagra anyday.

There is simply nothing sub-par about this bike whatsoever. I've seen them in person and took a test ride. It's a sweet ride at a fantastic price of $600.
the shifting is smooth. The bike is heavy, but it feels so solid. The workmanship and level of detail is something to note.


----------



## holy cromoly

SystemShock said:


> Don't fear the 8-speed and downtube shifters. It's surprising how much simpler they make life. Less shift, shift, shift at the drop of a hat. It's a less obsessive-compulsive way to ride.
> .


Well said. All you have to do is pedal harder instead of shifting obsessively. And DT shifters just always work, period.


----------



## george kraushaar

The Allez Double has become my main ride now that winter is here. Since I put a Bontrager compact crank on, I don't think it needs anything. I find that I can get equal times out of it compared to my steel LeMond, which is considerably lighter. It won't go as fast as the Orbea, however. The Allez simply doesn't have any real weaknesses in my opinion.

The bike is probably a hard concept for many dealers to get their minds around. It's just so much different than most anything else. Even the LBS I bought mine from hasn't gotten any more in. He says he feels that they're geared wrong for the mountains, and he's probably right about that. I ended up switching out the cassette and the crank to gain lower gears.

I'd like to hear from anyone else who has purchased this bike. There are only two reviews of this bike so far.


----------



## greggo

ukbloke said:


> How about the Langster Steel Frameset for $440 and then build it up yourself?


Nice frame... to bad it's only a fixie.


----------



## txbusdriver

How much do you think you could lighten this bike up? I'm new to the road bike thing and I really want STEEL. I miss my old steel Specialized Mountain Bike...why oh why did I go to aluminum???? If I got this bike I would slowly tweak it...well re-build it with new wheels,carbon fork and Campy Veloce or Centaur. At least I could get riding ASAP (if I can find one) and build it up how I want it. Thanks.....


----------



## george kraushaar

Lighter wheels and carbon fork would probably bring it in around 21.5 or 22 lb. I'm riding mine at near stock weight. It could stand some lighter wheels, as the stock ones and tires are fairly heavy.and make it feel kind of ponderous compared to a nice set of wheels.


----------



## txbusdriver

george kraushaar said:


> Lighter wheels and carbon fork would probably bring it in around 21.5 or 22 lb. I'm riding mine at near stock weight. It could stand some lighter wheels, as the stock ones and tires are fairly heavy.and make it feel kind of ponderous compared to a nice set of wheels.


Thanks George. I rode a 58 today and it was a bit too big for me. Tomorrow they will have a 56cm to try. I really like the bike. I'm new to the road bike thing but I have ridden about 10 other bikes trying to decide what I want. Today I also road a Surly Long Haul Trucker and Cross-check. For the money I think the Allez is an awesome deal. I thought it was just as nice as the the two Surly's.
I was going to build up a Surly Pacer but I want to get riding ASAP. I've got lots of things I would like to do the bike. What kind of wheel do you think would go well on this bike?


----------



## buck-50

txbusdriver said:


> How much do you think you could lighten this bike up? I'm new to the road bike thing and I really want STEEL. I miss my old steel Specialized Mountain Bike...why oh why did I go to aluminum???? If I got this bike I would slowly tweak it...well re-build it with new wheels,carbon fork and Campy Veloce or Centaur. At least I could get riding ASAP (if I can find one) and build it up how I want it. Thanks.....


I wouldn't worry about lightening it us much- toss on a decent set of wheels (32 spoke ultegra hubs, open pro rims), some nice tires and a saddle that fits and call it a day.


----------



## tihsepa

txbusdriver said:


> Thanks George. I rode a 58 today and it was a bit too big for me. Tomorrow they will have a 56cm to try. I really like the bike. I'm new to the road bike thing but I have ridden about 10 other bikes trying to decide what I want. Today I also road a Surly Long Haul Trucker and Cross-check. For the money I think the Allez is an awesome deal. I thought it was just as nice as the the two Surly's.
> I was going to build up a Surly Pacer but I want to get riding ASAP. I've got lots of things I would like to do the bike. What kind of wheel do you think would go well on this bike?


I have two cross checks and a pacer. I still want one of these.


----------



## txbusdriver

A from Il said:


> I have two cross checks and a pacer. I still want one of these.


I'm not knocking Surly's either. I liked the Cross-check a lot!


----------



## holy cromoly

txbusdriver said:


> How much do you think you could lighten this bike up? I'm new to the road bike thing and I really want STEEL. I miss my old steel Specialized Mountain Bike...why oh why did I go to aluminum???? If I got this bike I would slowly tweak it...well re-build it with new wheels,carbon fork and Campy Veloce or Centaur. At least I could get riding ASAP (if I can find one) and build it up how I want it. Thanks.....


I wouldn't put so much stock into lightening up this bike, that's a big money pit. The part spec is just heavy all around. My advice is to enjoy this bike for what is it, a solid daily rider.


----------



## george kraushaar

I'm going to keep the stock wheels on it for awhile. May Mavic Aksium would be a good choice. They're kind of a good intermediate wheel that stays true.


----------



## twrecks

I got the call that my bike is in...now I am considering asking if I can keep it on layaway until payday Feb 1 so I can pay cash, it's not like the roads are in great shape for riding anyway.


----------



## Henry Chinaski

I just saw this thread and this bike. Wow, major props to Specialized. Hope it's a big success for them and they keep building it. Perfect winter, travel or entry level bike.


----------



## terbennett

PJ352 said:


> In the interest of continuing this 'disagreement'...
> 
> IME many entry level buyers not only _don't_ want d/ tube shifters, they don't want Sora/ 8 spd and skip over Tiagra longing for 105. This is before throwing a leg over a TT, because they've researched, poked around sites like BD and found that they can have a 105 equipped bike for $800. And speaking of BD, they must agree with me because the sell NO bikes with d/ tube shifters.
> 
> Sure, some savvy buyers new and old alike will go for the Steel Allez, but I still think the majority will be more experienced.
> 
> And just for the record, my comments aren't meant to criticize noobs in any way. I spend a fair amount of time in the beginners forum and they're a good bunch to work with, but what I've offered I've experienced - many times.
> 
> Lastly, it seems a contradiction to me when you say the Allez is entry level priced, but then take issue with the fact that there's componentry that's 'too cheap'. IMO/E, you can have one or the other, but (almost) never both.



+1. All noobs I 've encountered want STI and while some may settle for Tiagra most yearn for at least 105. The ones who never did any research seem to settle for Sora. Regardless, none would even consider D/T shifters.


----------



## terbennett

PJ352 said:


> You're putting far too much emphasis on my use of BD. It was simply an example to illustrate that noobs spend a lot of time browsing bike related websites (including RBR) and conjure up this mindset that 105 is a minimum requirement.
> 
> As I mentioned, spend some time reading posts in the beginners forum and see how many noobs _don't_ know about BD (or similar) websites. And after their second or third post, someone has to inject into the 'conversation' the importance of fit, and that being a noob they should work with a LBS for sizing/ fit assistance. Some see the value in it, but some don't, thinking that the upgraded componentry at the (name the online 'store' here) is a 'better value'. Show them a bike like the Allez steel and they'll tell you they could do better going used.
> 
> As far as a 'sweet spot' in pricing, I don't disagree. But again, price that bike (or any other) much above $600 and you've lost the noob, because he'll go used/ online instead.


 +1. This is what happened to my brother when he started out. I recommended going to an LBS but he complained that getting Tiagra for around $1,000 was ludicrous. He mentioned the BD had Ultegra bikes for around that much. Well I couldn't change his mind so I had him go to Performance Bike Shop to get fitted on a Fuji- since they have a nearly identical geometry as a Motobecane. It at least softened the blow. He checked out the stats and knew what was different and needed to be changed to fit him. It worked. Well, Performance didn't get a sale from him but I bought some Ultegra 6600 shifters and a saddle for a project bike from them that day to soften the blow for a sale lost.


----------



## SystemShock

george kraushaar said:


> The bike is probably a hard concept for many dealers to get their minds around. It's just so much different than most anything else. Even the LBS I bought mine from hasn't gotten any more in. He says he feels that they're geared wrong for the mountains, and he's probably right about that. I ended up switching out the cassette and the crank to gain lower gears.


Yeah, that's one of the few misses with the new Allez. A 39/25 low gear, for an entry-level bike? Just seems wrong. 

Now the 12-25 cassette makes sense, 'cuz it's an 8-spd to save money. But it probably should've come with a compact crank. 
.


----------



## SystemShock

george kraushaar said:


> The bike is probably a hard concept for many dealers to get their minds around. It's just so much different than most anything else. Even the LBS I bought mine from hasn't gotten any more in. He says he feels that they're geared wrong for the mountains, and he's probably right about that. I ended up switching out the cassette and the crank to gain lower gears.


Yeah, that's one of the few misses with the new Allez. 39/25 low gear, for an entry-level bike? Just seems wrong. 

Probably should've come with a compact crank.
.


----------



## buck-50

terbennett said:


> +1. All noobs I 've encountered want STI and while some may settle for Tiagra most yearn for at least 105. The ones who never did any research seem to settle for Sora. Regardless, none would even consider D/T shifters.


I kinda doubt that noobs are the intended market for this bike- This is a bike for older cyclists who grew up with steel and DT shifters or for people who want a retro bike but don't want to get in a bidding war. The components don't matter much because anyone who's wants this bike probably already has a box of parts they're planning to swap out...

It's a brilliant idea and it's a pretty clear indication of just how expensive some parts have gotten, but I doubt noobs were even a consideration for this bike.

"Inexpensive" doesn't always mean "Noobcycle..."


----------



## SystemShock

buck-50 said:


> I kinda doubt that noobs are the intended market for this bike- This is a bike for older cyclists who grew up with steel and DT shifters or for people who want a retro bike but don't want to get in a bidding war. The components don't matter much because anyone who's wants this bike probably already has a box of parts they're planning to swap out...
> 
> It's a brilliant idea and it's a pretty clear indication of just how expensive some parts have gotten, but I doubt noobs were even a consideration for this bike.
> 
> "Inexpensive" doesn't always mean "Noobcycle..."


The devil's advocate would then turn around and say that the Allez is exactly a 'noob cycle', because anyone who _really_ knew anything would either get their retro bike off Craigslist for less (plenty of lugged '80s Japanese bikes in my neck of the woods going for $300-400-ish), or would build up a good cheap frame (Soma, Surley) with all those parts they had lying around, or would shop around for something _really_ classic used (aka Bridgestone, Italian stuff, French stuff).

Would be interesting to hear from a Specialized rep what the demographic for this bike really is, since there have been so many debates on that. My guess is, it's a split demographic, not one or the other... aka the recession has caused some entry-level folks to 'settle' for a non-STI bike since it's cheaper (and many of them do _not_ know about places like BD), and some older folks who aren't Craigslist or eBay savvy who might dig it as a second bike, or who left riding for a long time and are coming back.
.


----------



## tihsepa

I amt no noob and would buy one. Heck its cool and 600.


----------



## PJ352

SystemShock said:


> Yeah, that's one of the few misses with the new Allez. *39/25 low gear, for an entry-level bike? Just seems wrong. *
> 
> Probably should've come with a compact crank.
> .


Just cuz you post it twice doesn't make it true.  

And maybe the fact that the Allez steel isn't geared for noobs demonstrates who Specialized targeted it for. Us 'seasoned' riders who's daily dose of Glucosamine allows us to push a standard double. Besides, there were no compacts 'back then'.


----------



## SystemShock

PJ352 said:


> Just cuz you post it twice doesn't make it true.


'tis the Internet... oopsies happen. 

Pls mark one of the them for moderation as a double post, as the 'mark for mod' button does not show up if it's your own post.



> _And maybe the fact that the Allez steel isn't geared for noobs demonstrates who Specialized targeted it for. Us 'seasoned' riders who's daily dose of Glucosamine allows us to push a standard double. Besides, there were no compacts 'back then'. _


Or, the std double crank was just cheaper to spec than an equivalent compact, buyer got a really good price on the part, etc. We're not really in a position to know.
.


----------



## Thommy

I definitely want to add this bike to the ever growing list of bikes (in my head). I think this would make a good intro bike for someone who's been wanting a road bike at a fairly affordable price. You could argue for or against that this would be a bike that you buy with the intent of upgrading within reason or just riding and replacing as things wear out. Me personally, I love building bikes from scratch so I cold see myself getting a friend onto one of these then slowly coaxing him or her into swapping out the down tube shifters for bar rend shifters or 9 speed Tiagra or Sora STIs, a 12/25 9 speed cassette and an inexpensive micro adjustable seat post and saddle. Most of us are bike/part snobs but we mean well when talking over bikes to our non-riding friends and I think a lot of these friends kind of think we know what we're talking about. So, from that prospective I think this would make a good choice for a beginner or even someone looking for a new bike to throw together as a beater, grocery getter, coffee bike or whatever. We honestly do mean well when we suggest to our less experienced friends certain upgrades for better cycling. I would like to see more bike companies follow Specialized retro-return.


----------



## dnewnham

I rode a double steel the other day and loved it! It felt so much better than a carbon Giant that I borrowed recently. As I rode a lot as a boy, the Allez is a way to relive my youth. I put my order in for a 56cm and I'm considering a few upgrades and need advice.

For some reason, I don't like the black brakes....if I change them out for silver ones...what would be a good option that keeps (or perhaps enhances) the retro theme?

Same question for the crank. The stock crank does not look the part.....is there anything out there that looks more retro (and perhaps is lighter) that is not expensive?

One last question....could I easily swap out the painted seat post clamp for an aluminum one like this: silver clamp? What size will I need?

Thanks!

Dale


----------



## tihsepa

dnewnham said:


> I rode a double steel the other day and loved it! It felt so much better than a carbon Giant that I borrowed recently. As I rode a lot as a boy, the Allez is a way to relive my youth. I put my order in for a 56cm and I'm considering a few upgrades and need advice.
> 
> For some reason, I don't like the black brakes....if I change them out for silver ones...what would be a good option that keeps (or perhaps enhances) the retro theme?
> 
> Same question for the crank. The stock crank does not look the part.....is there anything out there that looks more retro (and perhaps is lighter) that is not expensive?
> 
> One last question....could I easily swap out the painted seat post clamp for an aluminum one like this: silver clamp? What size will I need?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Dale


First cool bike. 
Brakes, I would go with a Tektro with a good pad. They will look good and work great. 
Crankset, Maybe a Sugino like this one. Its a really nice crankset and would probably work fine with the existing BB. 
Seat post clamp, Looking at the Allez I dont think you can change the clamp. It looks to be part of the frame. If you could it most likely would be a 30.0 and Salsa makes a really nice clamp.


----------



## dnewnham

Thanks for the advice on the Tektro brakes....they do look the part. The crankset is also very cool but I'm wondering if I should ride the bike for a while before changing the gearing? The VO site also has some great pedals and toe clips that I may well invest in so thank again for pointing me in the right direction!

Dale


----------



## twrecks

Well I picked up my bike at the end of January, I didn't need to lay it away I just asked if they could hold it a week until I could come by.

I like the ride, I have put about 50 miles on it but it has not exactly been a great winter for riding this year. When I bought it I ordered 8 speed brifters and they came in last week, I really didn't mind the downtube shifters for the rear but I couldn't get the hang of it for the front, maybe because I am right handed?

The heaviest and in my opinion lowest quality part is the wheels and hubs, they just look cheap and I don't like the chrome finish. I will be replacing them with something nicer later this year. The tires are nothing special either, Everything else is at least serviceable. 

I replaced the seatpost with a Thompson and seat with a Flite that I already had.


----------



## tihsepa

I like it. Enjoy the ride.


----------



## SystemShock

twrecks said:


> Well I picked up my bike at the end of January, I didn't need to lay it away I just asked if they could hold it a week until I could come by.
> 
> I like the ride, I have put about 50 miles on it but it has not exactly been a great winter for riding this year. When I bought it I ordered 8 speed brifters and they came in last week, I really didn't mind the downtube shifters for the rear but I couldn't get the hang of it for the front, maybe because I am right handed?
> 
> The heaviest and in my opinion lowest quality part is the wheels and hubs, they just look cheap and I don't like the chrome finish. I will be replacing them with something nicer later this year. The tires are nothing special either, Everything else is at least serviceable.
> 
> I replaced the seatpost with a Thompson and seat with a Flite that I already had.


Very nice. The only knock I'd have on it is that maybe the blue handlebar tape doesn't really go with the red frame.

Other than that, sweet. :thumbsup:
.


----------



## twrecks

My girlfriend picked the color...so I went with it...
I go through more bar tape than girlfriends so it may not last too long.

(Wait, does that make sense?)



SystemShock said:


> Very nice. The only knock I'd have on it is that maybe the blue handlebar tape doesn't really go with the red frame.
> 
> Other than that, sweet. :thumbsup:
> .


----------



## SystemShock

twrecks said:


> My girlfriend picked the color...so I went with it...
> I go through more bar tape than girlfriends so it may not last too long.
> 
> (Wait, does that make sense?)


Somehow, it does. :lol:
.


----------



## Don Duende

A few questions.

1. Can you put a 28 tooth cassette with the OEM Shimano derailleur?
2. Can the frame and fork fit a tire larger than 28mm (32mm) ?
3. Will Shimano compatible 9 & 10 speed wheels (130mm rear hub spacing) fit ?


----------



## tihsepa

Don Duende said:


> A few questions.
> 
> 1. Can you put a 28 tooth cassette with the OEM Shimano derailleur? *Probably*
> 2. Can the frame and fork fit a tire larger than 28mm (32mm) ? *Maybe. I havent seen one.*
> 3. Will Shimano compatible 9 & 10 speed wheels (130mm rear hub spacing) fit ?*Yah its 130 spacing so a 9 or 10 wheel will fit fine.*


.....


----------



## PJ352

Don Duende said:


> A few questions.
> 
> 1. Can you put a 28 tooth cassette with the OEM Shimano derailleur?
> 2. Can the frame and fork fit a tire larger than 28mm (32mm) ?
> 3. Will Shimano compatible 9 & 10 speed wheels (130mm rear hub spacing) fit ?


Regarding #1, Shimano hasn't yet added the 2300 group to its website, so pinning down the specs is difficult. If the 2200 group is any indication, the 35T total capacity keeps you in the safe zone, but the max cog of 26T isn't. It may still work, but it's trial and error. 

If that were all that was holding you back, I suggest considering uprading the RD to Sora SS (or higher) which has a lower total capacity of 31 (you'd be at 30) and max cog of 27T -still ok as long as you didn't then go with a compact crank.


----------



## wim

Yes, 2300 double RD retains the 35T total capacity of the 2200 RD. FD total capacity is 16T. Total capacity = Gesamtkapazität. T = Z.
http://www.paul-lange.de/produkte/shimano/RENNRAD/2300/


----------



## PJ352

wim said:


> Yes, 2300 double RD retains the 35T total capacity of the 2200 RD. FD total capacity is 16T. Total capacity = Gesamtkapazität. T = Z.
> http://www.paul-lange.de/produkte/shimano/RENNRAD/2300/


Vielen Dank, wim.


----------



## wim

Gern geschehen!


----------



## dnewnham

Your bike look great! I was climbing a few hills on mine the other day and I wished I had shifters like your's! 

I watched American Flyer last night and I plan to go all retro with silver calipers and levers and will post pics then  The wheels seem nice to me as I like the chrome/silver finish, but I'm thinking about upgrading my crank to something that is more elegant....perhaps a sugino or Ultegra FC-6500...

Dale


----------



## Don Duende

PJ352 said:


> Regarding #1, Shimano hasn't yet added the 2300 group to its website, so pinning down the specs is difficult. If the 2200 group is any indication, the 35T total capacity keeps you in the safe zone, but the max cog of 26T isn't. It may still work, but it's trial and error.
> 
> If that were all that was holding you back, I suggest considering uprading the RD to Sora SS (or higher) which has a lower total capacity of 31 (you'd be at 30) and max cog of 27T -still ok as long as you didn't then go with a compact crank.


I live in the mountains so, I would need a compact crank and at least a 27 tooth cassette. Does anyone know if the Shimano rear derailleur can be tweeked to handle a 27t? My LBS won't even talk about this bike, probably because of the gearing. ????


----------



## wim

Don Duende said:


> I live in the mountains so, I would need a compact crank and at least a 27 tooth cassette. Does anyone know if the Shimano rear derailleur can be tweeked to handle a 27t? My LBS won't even talk about this bike, probably because of the gearing. ????



IMO, a better modification would be a long-cage rear derailleur, a longer chain and an 8-speed mountain bike cassette (12-32 or sth. similar). I can't figure out what gearing has to do with the unwillingness to talk to you, can you explain?


----------



## Don Duende

wim said:


> IMO, a better modification would be a long-cage rear derailleur, a longer chain and an 8-speed mountain bike cassette (12-32 or sth. similar). I can't figure out what gearing has to do with the unwillingness to talk to you, can you explain?


LBS has been a Specialized dealer for several years and the sales people did not know of the bike except what was in the catalog. They did not indicate that they ever expected to see this steel bike in the shop. I am sure if I pressed the issue they would "special order" the bike for me but otherwise they do not stock anything below the Roubaix in the Specialized line. They are also a Trek dealer and I have never seen an aluminum Trek, either. More than half their road bikes have triple chainrings, because of the local terrain.


----------



## PJ352

Don Duende said:


> I live in the mountains so, I would need a compact crank and at least a 27 tooth cassette. Does anyone know if the Shimano rear derailleur can be tweeked to handle a 27t? My LBS won't even talk about this bike, probably because of the gearing. ????


If you're hellbent on going with a compact (50/34) and 12-27 rear, you're better off keeping the stock 2300 RD because your total capacity will be at 31 (specs say up to 35 is ok) and the largest cog would only be one tooth above max (26T), so it could very well work. And if it doesn't, all you've lost is the cost of the cassette, but the LBS may do a no charge swap on that.


----------



## wim

Don Duende said:


> LBS has been a Specialized dealer for several years and the sales people did not know of the bike except what was in the catalog. They did not indicate that they ever expected to see this steel bike in the shop. I am sure if I pressed the issue they would "special order" the bike for me but otherwise they do not stock anything below the Roubaix in the Specialized line. They are also a Trek dealer and I have never seen an aluminum Trek, either. More than half their road bikes have triple chainrings, because of the local terrain.


Hmm. OK. Seems like they basically just want to deal in high-end stuff with optional triple insurance. Well, they know their market, I don't.


----------



## tihsepa

wim said:


> Hmm. OK. Seems like they basically just want to deal in high-end stuff with optional triple insurance. Well, they know their market, I don't.


Find a new shop!


----------



## george kraushaar

I went with a 28 teeth SRAM cassette and replaced the crank with a 50/36 compact Bontrager that I got on sale. Works great.


----------



## Guy Smiley

*I bought it!*

Hello Tax Return!
And Helloooooo Speciallized Allez Double Steel!

So, Obama's administration has enabled me to finally get a new bike, and after reading all of your wonderful posts, I finally opted for the Allez Double Steel. I hope I can offer more insight to the next guy who might be in my shoes. 

First of all, the bike is GORGEOUS. No really. I'm riding this thing around San Francisco now, and getting looks and comments everywhere. Being red, it is going to be a theif magnet, so I'm keeping it on lockdown when I'm not on it! 

Secondly, the bike makes ALL the roads feel like new. I've ridden around on a Cannondale CAAD 5 for years, and never knew what I was missing. This ride literally smooths all the pavement. 

Next, the DT shifters are a TRIP! I'm too new to cycling to have ever ridden with them before, so it is a new experience. I really like the front shifter (let's see....forward for slow...back for fast....Simple!). The rear shifter is indexed, so it makes it is easy to shift directly between gears. None of the feathering people talk about. Of course, I think I have to be in the saddle to shift, which, is resulting in less shifting, and probably going to make me a stronger cyclist. Probably gonna be a bit slower though, not being able to shift on the fly...

Which brings me to the last piece that I think folks should know. This thing is HEAVY. I'm hoping I'll get used to throwing it on my shoulder to get up my two flights of stairs to my apartment, and, sorry BART, but that bike is all over the escalators! I didn't buy this bike on a mission to get something light, but DAMN! I keep telling myself I'll get used to it... :idea: 

All in all, I love the bike. the classic looks and smooth ride make me _feel_ like the coolest cat on the road (quiet in the back, please, from the blokes on the $1000+ bikes), and I think that's what's most important. I've put a rack and a pannier on it too, so I can get out from under a way too heavy messenger bag (making me a sweaty mess by the time I'd reach the office), but the geometry still gives it a nice "get up and go" feel, and the gearing feels big, so it does move! It's not a touring bike!

So, I'm hoping I can get some friendly advice from some of the veterans on this site:

Is there a chance I can put some form of Ergo shifters on this thing in the future, when I want to go faster, and be able to shift in a sprint again? I'd love to fit this thing with some Campy or SRAMage! 

Thanks, all, for all of your posts before this one! You helped me decide on a wonderful bike that I can't get enough of! I really wanted the comfort of a steel frame, but didn't have the cash up-front to build a whole new bike from a new frameset, and I've already had a bad experience buying a used steel frame. So far, this bike is suiting me fine! 
Cheers!


----------



## dnewnham

I just swapped out the levers and calipers to complete the American Flyer retro look ;-) Before and after pics:
























I know she is a little heavy but I just need to be a little fitter in order to keep up with the carbon bikes...plus I have a built-in excuse if I get dropped!


----------



## Guy Smiley

Wow! Nice work! 
Looks like you switched out more than just the levers! The brakes look great too!
I also like your pedals! 

Go get 'em!


----------



## supercres

Thanks for the first-hand reviews, guys.

Stopped in to ask your advice about a choice I have facing me. I really want a steel, traditional geometry road bike, and this Specialized looks like it fits the bill. To complicate matters, though, so does a 2000 Bianchi Campione I found on Craigslist. You know what the Spec is like, but here's a rundown on the Bianchi (BikePedia), and a picture.

Everything on the Bianchi is stock (Campy Mirage if you didn't check the link) except the rear derailleur, which is Campy Centaur. 9 sp. Very low mileage, and looks it. Feels great, though the Campy integrated shifters of that vintage will take some getting used to. The fellow wants *$600* for it, so it'd actually end up being a bit cheaper than the Spec.

The LBS didn't have the Specialized Allez Steel in stock. On paper, it's not as good of a bike, but I'm buying a machine that I can build up over time either way; the wheelset will probably be the first upgrade.

Thoughts? Should I ask the LBS to order and assemble the Spec? I'd like to act on the Bianchi in the next week or so.


----------



## PJ352

supercres said:


> Thanks for the first-hand reviews, guys.
> 
> Stopped in to ask your advice about a choice I have facing me. I really want a steel, traditional geometry road bike, and this Specialized looks like it fits the bill. To complicate matters, though, so does a 2000 Bianchi Campione I found on Craigslist. You know what the Spec is like, but here's a rundown on the Bianchi (BikePedia), and a picture.
> 
> Everything on the Bianchi is stock (Campy Mirage if you didn't check the link) except the rear derailleur, which is Campy Centaur. 9 sp. Very low mileage, and looks it. Feels great, though the Campy integrated shifters of that vintage will take some getting used to. The fellow wants *$600* for it, so it'd actually end up being a bit cheaper than the Spec.
> 
> The LBS didn't have the Specialized Allez Steel in stock. On paper, it's not as good of a bike, but I'm buying a machine that I can build up over time either way; the wheelset will probably be the first upgrade.
> 
> Thoughts? Should I ask the LBS to order and assemble the Spec? I'd like to act on the Bianchi in the next week or so.


If by 'feels great' you mean you test rode the Bianchi and it fits well and rides and handles the way you like, I think it's worth pursuing. But if you want to keep the Allez option open, before asking your LBS to order it and build it up, why not hunt down the Bianchi's geo and compare it to the Allez. That might just be enough to help you decide whether or not to pursue the Allez.

JMO, but considering the Bianchi is 10 yrs old, I think $600 is a little high, but another member more in tune with used bike prices may know better.


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## george kraushaar

I'm glad that you are having such fun on the Double Steel. I'm the one that started this thread and I stupidly traded mine off already on a lightweight Gunnar Roadie. I really miss the good manners and retro coolness of the Double Steel.

The first thing I did to mine was replace the crank with a compact. The next thing I would have done is get lighter wheels for a couple of bills. That would get rid of a couple of lbs at least, bringing it down to 22. That would also help your acceleration and climbing greatly.

The Double Steel is a great concept.

I was lucky enough recently to score an old 80s lugged Allez in red. I think I back in business.


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## PJ352

george kraushaar said:


> I'm glad that you are having such fun on the Double Steel. I'm the one that started this thread and I stupidly traded mine off already on a lightweight Gunnar Roadie. I really miss the good manners and retro coolness of the Double Steel.
> 
> The first thing I did to mine was replace the crank with a compact. The next thing I would have done is get lighter wheels for a couple of bills. That would get rid of a couple of lbs at least, bringing it down to 22. That would also help your acceleration and climbing greatly.
> 
> The Double Steel is a great concept.
> 
> I was lucky enough recently to score an old 80s lugged Allez in red. I think I back in business.


Not to derail this thread, but I'm curious how you think the Gunnar compares to the Allez. If you'd prefer, PM me.


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## Guy Smiley

Supercres,
That bike looks beautiful, and if it's solid, it would be worth it in my eyes. Be sure to check the frame over VERY carefully. Look very close at the welds and be sure you see no cracks or wrinkles, especially where the welds come into the head tube.. Also, check for any play in the bottom bracket and the headset. A head tube in a bike that old may be worn out if the headset has been changed out more than a few times. Check to see if there is any wobble by standing over the bike, turning the bars at a 90 degree angle and then applying some back and forth pressure in a forward direction. 

Finally be sure the levers work like butter. They may be hard to shift, and would need to be rebuilt.

But, if the bike is TIGHT, and you don't want to put a pannier on it, then I would go for it if I were in your shoes! Especially if it feels great! $600 does seem a little high, but if it's in immaculate shape, it would be worth it. Sure you could get a brand new Trek 1000 for a little more, but it won't give you the smooth steel feel, and the classic look of that Bianchi. The Campy group on that Bianchi is good stuff too...better than the low end Shimano goup you'd get with a entry-level road bike of the same cost.

Happy Trails!


----------



## george kraushaar

PJ, my Gunnar is pretty much a pure race bike. It's an older model with 853, light wheels, and campy components. Those differences alone will ensure that it rides and feels a bit different.

In it's own way, however, I really like the Steel Double frame. It was well made and reasonably fast as a club bike. The frame (52cm) actually fit me better than the 52cm Gunnar, probably because of it's longer top tube. The shifters were flawless and inspired great confidence.

I should kept the thing.


----------



## Guy Smiley

@ George: Can you post some pics of the Gunnar? It sounds like the bike I was aspiring to, but couldn't wait for, and ended up "settling" for the Allez Double Steel. I'm very curious as to how these top tube shifters would be preferred over Campy!


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## george kraushaar

Sorry, I don't have a camera or post photos, so you can't see my Gunnar. It's gots the smaller "traditional" diameter tubing with the top tube slightly sloping. The bike's a red,white,blue fade with a straight bladed carbon fork with no name.

My Gunnar uses Camp ergo shifters. They're flawless on the big chainring but not quite so on the small. My Allez shifted flawlessly everywhere, as downtube shifters should.


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## dnewnham

I went for a 22 mile hilly ride on my Allez today..and had a lot of fun with the downtube shifters.. I'm far from experienced and have only ridden a brifter bike once, but I find the downtube shifter easy, even when pushing reasonably hard uphill. There are a few times when I got in the wrong gear and had to stand up to keep going...with brifters I suppose I could have just shifted down. I see myself on a vintage Italian bike one day...but for now the Allez is perfect....


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## SystemShock

Yup, downtube shifters are a lot easier than some ppl say.

Those ppl are like, "ZOMG, DT shifters?!? They are dangerous and will kills you dead!!!". 

But anyone like me who rode in the pre-STI days will just roll their eyes and laugh at stuff like that... :lol:
.


----------



## e39540is

I think this bike is just so fricken cool! The very reasons I like the bike are the same reasons a lot of people dont. In fact my LBS did not order any because of the DT shifting. When I found out Specialized was going to offer a steel bike with DT shifters, I was very interested. If I order one (and I am 85% sure I will), and they see how cool it is, they may just change there mind. 

I got into vintage steel bikes last year, and have learned shifting with DT shifters is very easy. I have to look to shift the front, but not the rear. Its cake, friction or indexed.

I am not worried about the low end shimano stuff on it, as I am a gearhead, and love to upgrade. I just learned how to lace wheels last year, so I can see some custom hand built wheels on it too.

As others have mentioned the black brakes dont look right, and they would be changed, as well as the stem. I think it needs an old style quill stem.

I wish it was lugged, but that is not a big deal.

I just bought the movie American Flyers, and cant wait to check it out. That may just seal the deal on placing the order.:thumbsup:


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## dnewnham

I tend to use my right hand for both levers (even though left handed) and I'm to the point where I rarely look down. From my unbiased position ;-), I think downtube shifters offer a few advantages:
1. You can reach down and determine roughly which gear you are in by "feel". This is easy with the front derailleur as the lever is either forward or back. The position of the lever is more subtle with the rear, but you can clearly tell if you are in a low, medium or high gear.
2. It is easy to shift across multiple gears with one quick action....I tend to do this a lot when I hit a big hill!!
3. You change gears less frequently and sometimes end up pushing a higher gear...which makes you stronger! ;-)
4. More reliable and cheaper (I have seen this mentioned by others).

The movie is a bit corny but I really enjoyed it.....watch for when Sarah changes his wheel. This is possibly one of the most sensuous moves I have seen any woman make!

I also prefer a quill stem but the ability to adjust the angle and reach of the stock stem is a nice advantage (I want to try to get into a lower more aerodynamic position as I gain experience).

Oh...I also switched out the black seat post binder bolt for a chrome version to complete the look. I'm considered a leather saddle and handlebar tape but I'm not sure if this is authentic for a racing bike in the 80s.......


----------



## dnewnham

*Allez steel wheel change technique*

Its better than I remember....









Watch the whole scene here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sA3DZ0v9Kw8


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## e39540is

I am curious to know what the stock wheels weigh. Has any of you that have bought this bike weighed them?


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## dnewnham

I just weighed my front wheel with the tire, tube and skewer. Our cheap kitchen scale says it weighes 3lbs (1.4kilos). I wonder how much I would need to spend to drop a pound or two off the bike without ruining the retro looks.....?

I just rode 17 miles with a casual group and it was tough keeping up with the lead rider on his 14lb Giant TCR, especially on the hills so dropping a couple of pounds would make sense!


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## tihsepa

dnewnham said:


> I just weighed my front wheel with the tire, tube and skewer. Our cheap kitchen scale says it weighes 3lbs (1.4kilos). I wonder how much I would need to spend to drop a pound or two off the bike without ruining the retro looks.....?
> 
> I just rode 17 miles with a casual group and it was tough keeping up with the lead rider on his 14lb Giant TCR, especially on the hills so dropping a couple of pounds would make sense!


How long have you been riding. I find the best way to drop weight is to ride more. Lighten the load the bike has to carry.


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## dnewnham

I have only been riding about a month but at 167lbs and 6'1" tall I'm pretty much at my goal weight. I plan to do an Olympic triathlon in June, so I'll probably loose a few pounds by then but hopefully not too many as I'm skinny enough already! 

I like the look of the stock wheels on the Allez so I doubt that I'll bother upgrading (although I think high flange hubs would be very cool).....


----------



## LesPaulPlayer

Don Duende said:


> LBS has been a Specialized dealer for several years and the sales people did not know of the bike except what was in the catalog. They did not indicate that they ever expected to see this steel bike in the shop. I am sure if I pressed the issue they would "special order" the bike for me but otherwise they do not stock anything below the Roubaix in the Specialized line. They are also a Trek dealer and I have never seen an aluminum Trek, either. More than half their road bikes have triple chainrings, because of the local terrain.


There are 2 competing Specialized dealers in my area. Both of them carry a full range of road bikes from the alloy Allez through the carbon Tarmac.

One of the dealers also had a full size run of the Allez Double Steel in stock.

The weekend employees of the _other _dealer didn't even know what it was. Hadn't even heard of it. When I explained what it was to them, they stated, "We would never carry a bike with downtube shifters...but we can order anything you want." Then they asked me why I didn't want carbon and began to expound why carbon is "so much better." They just didn't "get it."

Whatever. 

Anyway, I did a brief test of a 58 cm (25.5 lbs. on their digital scale) and I need one badly now. :yesnod:

And yes, the DT shifters work very nicely as many others have stated. I had absolutely no problem with my 80's DT friction shifted bike. Fast, noiseless shifting with a rider mechanical connection to the bike similar to driving a nice manual shifted car. But the Allez DT shifting was faster and more precise with it's ramped chainring and modern cassette.


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## dnewnham

LesPaulPlayer said:


> They just didn't "get it."
> 
> Anyway, I did a brief test of a 58 cm (25.5 lbs. on their digital scale) and I need one badly now. :yesnod:


I had a similar experience and bought from the dealer that had an interest in steel bikes. In fact I found a couple of people that worked at one store that owned nice Italian steel bikes and one of them built my Allez....I figured he would take more care if he appreciated the bike. Its fun riding in a group with the only downtube shifting steel bike, as long as you are willing to drag the extra 3-10lbs of bike up those hills! 

One other thing I have noticed is that the Allez seems to be less noisy than most of the carbon and aluminum bikes around me....not sure why. There is less noise when I shift and less banging over potholes and bumps. Some of it might just be that their drive train is older perhaps?


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## SystemShock

dnewnham said:


> Its fun riding in a group with the only downtube shifting steel bike, as long as you are willing to drag the extra 3-10lbs of bike up those hills!


More like a couple of pounds, all else being equal. 

The Allez DS is as heavy as it is largely due to the way its spec'd (i.e. cheaply)... but of course, what more does anyone expect on a $600 bike?

Would've been nice if they'd also offered a steel Spesh with a slightly higher-level/lighter spec. Maybe next year. They should use Apex. :yesnod:
.


----------



## LesPaulPlayer

dnewnham said:


> One other thing I have noticed is that the Allez seems to be less noisy than most of the carbon and aluminum bikes around me....not sure why. There is less noise when I shift and less banging over potholes and bumps. Some of it might just be that their drive train is older perhaps?


I noticed that too when compared with my alloy Allez which has the same cheap wheels (which have given me ZERO problems and stay true over NASTY bumps). The other thing I noticed was that the vibration frequencies of the frame were lower and dissipated more slowly when going over bumps. My aluminum Allez has a sharper feel over the same bumps even with the same rims, tires and PSI. Finally, the Double Steel has slower, more gradual handling. My alloy Allez (identical handling geometry) has quicker handling and is more twitchy.


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## ukbloke

LesPaulPlayer said:


> The other thing I noticed was that the vibration frequencies of the frame were lower and dissipated more slowly when going over bumps. My aluminum Allez has a sharper feel over the same bumps even with the same rims, tires and PSI. Finally, the Double Steel has slower, more gradual handling. My alloy Allez (identical handling geometry) has quicker handling and is more twitchy.


I wonder how much of that can be attributed to the increased mass of the steel Allez bicycle and how much to its frame material?


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## LesPaulPlayer

ukbloke said:


> I wonder how much of that can be attributed to the increased mass of the steel Allez bicycle and how much to its frame material?


I wonder that too...


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## rickhotrod

Many steel TIG welded bikes have lugged forks. This doesn't visually match. Steel unicrown forks should be matched to TIG welded frames!


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## SystemShock

rickhotrod said:


> Many steel TIG welded bikes have lugged forks. This doesn't visually match. Steel unicrown forks should be matched to TIG welded frames!


Steel unicrown forks are fugly as hell, though.
.


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## PJ352

SystemShock said:


> Steel unicrown forks are fugly as hell, though.
> .


+1. I'd opt for a 'mismatch' any day.


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## LesPaulPlayer

SystemShock said:


> Steel unicrown forks are fugly as hell, though.
> .


Correct.

And a unicrown fork would not match the _vibe_ of this bike at all.


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## rickhotrod

SystemShock said:


> Steel unicrown forks are fugly as hell, though.
> .


Lugged forks can bend real easy. I've never bent steel unicrown forks.


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## SystemShock

rickhotrod said:


> Lugged forks can bend real easy. I've never bent steel unicrown forks.


I think some ppl here may disagree with you on that generalization. Lugs/crowns shouldn't make a fork weaker.
.


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## WMBigs

I like it. May get one for my 16 year old boy. Downtube shifters- less to go wrong. Steel- great for long rides. Still looking for a good used one, but may get this for him. It would be his first road bike.


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## felix5150

*Just finished with my Allez Steel Double build *

Just finished my Allez Steel Double build. Build includes DA 7900 downtube shifters, brakes, and front & rear derailleurs; Tektro brake levers; Sugino compact crankset; Mavic Kysrium Elite silver wheels; Brooks saddle and bar tape; and ultegra 11-28 cassette.
View attachment 194873


View attachment 194875


View attachment 194876


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## SystemShock

felix5150 said:


> Just finished my Allez Steel Double build. Build includes DA 7900 downtube shifters, brakes, and front & rear derailleurs; Tektro brake levers; Sugino compact crankset; Mavic Kysrium Elite silver wheels; Brooks saddle and bar tape; and ultegra 11-28 cassette.
> View attachment 194873
> 
> 
> View attachment 194875
> 
> 
> View attachment 194876



Cool!  

Btw, what seatpost is that? Looks like it has a lot of setback.
.


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## tihsepa

felix5150 said:


> Just finished my Allez Steel Double build. Build includes DA 7900 downtube shifters, brakes, and front & rear derailleurs; Tektro brake levers; Sugino compact crankset; Mavic Kysrium Elite silver wheels; Brooks saddle and bar tape; and ultegra 11-28 cassette.
> View attachment 194873
> 
> 
> View attachment 194875
> 
> 
> View attachment 194876


Wow! that is a nice bike. I recommend a little carbon fiber though.  I had to do it.


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## dnewnham

felix5150 said:


> Just finished my Allez Steel Double build. Build includes DA 7900 downtube shifters, brakes, and front & rear derailleurs; Tektro brake levers; Sugino compact crankset; Mavic Kysrium Elite silver wheels; Brooks saddle and bar tape; and ultegra 11-28 cassette.


Very nice! I really like the crank, saddle and tape.....more retro than me! 

I'm new to this stuff but I think the smaller 11 tooth cog pretty much offsets the smaller chainrings as far as overall gearing goes. If I went with a compact crank, I suppose I would also need to change the cassette unless I want to lose about 2-3 mph in potential top-end speed when going downhill (I'm not pulling those gears on the flat for sure!)


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## felix5150

@system - I ordered the seatpost from velo-orange, its the VO Grand Cru and has 30.2mm setback

@A - Carbon is for my Tarmac Pro :thumbsup: 

@dnewnham - That is exactly why I chose that cassette, it should help a little. With a compact and a 12, I tend to spin out on downhills, and hopefully the 28 will help with the Allez's extra weight compared to my Tarmac.


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## SystemShock

felix5150 said:


> @system - I ordered the seatpost from velo-orange, its the VO Grand Cru and has 30.2mm setback


Thanks! I have long thighs and need a lot of setback... this might be exactly what I'm looking for. :yesnod:
.


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## LesPaulPlayer

felix5150 said:


> ...compared to my Tarmac.


How does the Allez Double Steel _feel_ compared to your Tarmac in normal riding?


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## felix5150

LesPaulPlayer said:


> How does the Allez Double Steel _feel_ compared to your Tarmac in normal riding?


Both bikes do a good job of dampening out crappy roads, especially compared to my trek 1000, that thing feels like a jackhammer on rough roads. But the Allez has the advantage here and just feels smoother. Should probably put the new mavics on my Tarmac to see what difference the wheels/tires are making.

The Tarmac feels quicker and seems to get up to speed faster. Not that the Allez is a dog, the Tarmac just feels quicker. Steering wise, the Tarmac also seems a little twitchier, but it handles great.

Longer hills, can definitely feel the weight of the Allez. Not a particularly strong climber, which is probably why I feel the difference. Did more climbing in the first month I had the Allez, which was basically stock except for swapping to a 12-27 cassette and compact crankset. Going to use the Allez this coming weekend for a club ride, so I'll be able to see how it climbs with all the upgrades. Probably done about 70 miles the past couple of days, with a couple of short 6% climbs, but nothing to really tell if the changes made an impact.

So which bike do I prefer, I'm not really sure,  they're both really nice bikes with different personalities. Leaning toward the Allez right now, but that could be just because its new.


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## dnewnham

felix5150 said:


> Longer hills, can definitely feel the weight of the Allez. Not a particularly strong climber, which is probably why I feel the difference. Did more climbing in the first month I had the Allez, which was basically stock except for swapping to a 12-27 cassette and compact crankset. Going to use the Allez this coming weekend for a club ride, so I'll be able to see how it climbs with all the upgrades. Probably done about 70 miles the past couple of days, with a couple of short 6% climbs, but nothing to really tell if the changes made an impact.


Excellent summary of the differences..thanks! I seem to be able to keep up with most of people in the groups I have ridden with, but I also find the longer climbs the toughest. When I feel the Allez is holding me back I plan to rent a light bike to see if I can justify the investment. It will be interesting to hear back on how you fair in your club ride compared to your Tarmac.


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## LesPaulPlayer

felix5150 said:


> Both bikes do a good job of dampening out crappy roads, especially compared to my trek 1000, that thing feels like a jackhammer on rough roads. But the Allez has the advantage here and just feels smoother. Should probably put the new mavics on my Tarmac to see what difference the wheels/tires are making.
> 
> The Tarmac feels quicker and seems to get up to speed faster. Not that the Allez is a dog, the Tarmac just feels quicker. Steering wise, the Tarmac also seems a little twitchier, but it handles great.
> 
> Longer hills, can definitely feel the weight of the Allez. Not a particularly strong climber, which is probably why I feel the difference. Did more climbing in the first month I had the Allez, which was basically stock except for swapping to a 12-27 cassette and compact crankset. Going to use the Allez this coming weekend for a club ride, so I'll be able to see how it climbs with all the upgrades. Probably done about 70 miles the past couple of days, with a couple of short 6% climbs, but nothing to really tell if the changes made an impact.
> 
> So which bike do I prefer, I'm not really sure,  they're both really nice bikes with different personalities. Leaning toward the Allez right now, but that could be just because its new.


Thank you for the comprehensive comparison. That's very helpful. I've done a short test of a 58cm Allez Double Steel, the same size as my alloy 2008 Allez. Same wheels, tires and PSI. The comparisons with your Tarmac and Allez Steel mirror the comparison of MY Allez and the Steel...although the differences (except ride quality) are probably larger with your comparison. The Steel feels a bit more sluggish in acceleration, climbing and handling...but feels _really_ solid and noticeably less sharp over bumps with a springy type of low frequency vibration which dissipates more slowly.

I also like how you're confused as to your preferences even though the prices of your bikes are so different!


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## felix5150

Well, after a couple hundred miles and a several thousand feet of climbing, I'm thinking its the upgraded wheels that's making the difference. The Allez climbs much better and has become my preferred ride. Even though the overall specs between the allez and tarmac are similar, its still not as quick nor climb as good as the tarmac, but the ride quality more than makes up for the difference. Maybe went overboard with the build, but it IS the steel bike I was looking for


----------



## supercres

Well, I went for the Allez steel about a month ago, before it was nice enough to take out on long rides. (I have my Fuji fixed for crosstown hops and commuting.) Put a few miles on with the stock wheels, then switched to a new wheelset: Velocity Aerohead (O/C in the back) laced to Ultegra 32H. What a difference in weight, and I love the higher spoke tension the asymmetry affords.

(Other things I've done to it: Hutchinson Hardskin/Kevlar tires, black Brooks B17, and Shimano XC clipless pedals.)

Already eyeing future upgrades. Still undecided on whether to switch to STI, but I'm leaning against at the moment. Would love to hear more stories of biggest bang-for-buck, upgrade-wise.


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## e39540is

Well, I ended up ordered a Double Steel in 54. It came in yesterday, and still in the box (I get to assemble it myself). I cant wait to get it on the road, then start the upgrade process. :thumbsup:


----------



## LegendRider

I saw this bike a few months ago online and thought it was pretty cool. Now I'm looking at this thread and looking at the bike again. Looks like I'm going to the bike shop tomorrow to see what they have in stock. Needed a slower bike than the Legend anyways, looks like this fits the bill perfectly.


----------



## koulis1984

not as pretty as others in this forum but still its my little workhorse and have been using it for 2 months ...use it for commuting,fitness rides and did my first 100mile ride on it

i have put on it 
1)TUBUS logo carrier 
2)dinotte 400l taillight/headlight combo
3)garmin 310xt
4)topeak turbo morph pump
5)keo 2 pedals
6)sks cagebox for tools/tubes ect
7)vaude karakorum panniers (not shown)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/koulis1984/sets/72157623939200601/

really happy with the bike its so comfortable and fast allthough not as light as its alouminium rivals ...but i dont care  

ps: excuse me for any spelling mistakes i am from Greece


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## e39540is

e39540is said:


> Well, I ended up ordered a Double Steel in 54. It came in yesterday, and still in the box (I get to assemble it myself). I cant wait to get it on the road, then start the upgrade process. :thumbsup:


I have had the bike for almost a week, and so far, I really like it. 

When putting it together I noticed that the headstet has a gap in it, and looks cheap, but feels fine. The large chain ring was bent, and would grab the chain when on the small ring, but that was easy to fix.

Just this last weekend I did an adventure ride/race/poker run with it, and one of the stops was a parking garage. Wow, that was fun!! The Allez handled great!

Now it is time to start the upgrade process. It does everything well, I just want to lighten it up a bit, and the 2300 parts just dont look so cool.

My original thought was Ultegra, but now I am thinking SRAM Force, with the Shiftmate from Jtek so I can use Shimano DT shifters. I cant afford to upgrade everything at once though. What should go first? I am thinking maybe this order. Crank, lighter wheels, front and rear derailleurs, then brakes.


----------



## barclay1978

Great thread - love everyone's thoughts/ideas. I stumbled across this bike in my LBS and it wasn't even close to being on my radar, however, it is now at the top of the list. Shopping for my first true road bike (I ride my mountain bike fairly consistently weather permitting) so this has been a pretty steep learning curve.

Couple of questions - as I mentioned, I am shopping for my first road bike and was focused on entry level alu bikes until the allez hit the radar. Do you think it is a mistake buying this as a primary road bike? I plan to use it for training, excercise, and sprint tri's... Also, the weight seems to be an issue for a lot of you. Is that truly a concern for a beginner and/or will I notice the difference? Finally, can i make this a triple or only a compact? I am not overly concerned with the fact it's a double but it would be nice to know i can change it in the future. According to a few shops that sell these DT shifters they are capable of going to a triple.

Thank you in advance for your help.


----------



## Guy Smiley

Dear Barclay,
Go and by the bike. I'm sure you will love it. I've had mine for almost 3 months now and LOVE it. Don't let the weight scare you. It's not a heavy bike, it's just that it's not as light as aluminum or carbon fiber. As a "beginner" you won't notice the weight. You'll only notice it after you ride a carbon fiber bike. It's a great bike to start with , and to replace the cheap parts with nicer ones as you / if you decide to turn up the investment some.
Enjoy!


----------



## ccd1977

Dave Hickey said:


> Great topic............sites like RBR are a great resource but we are a bunch of bike snobs and can be our own worst enemy.....
> 
> One can read almost daily that 105 is the "minimum" acceptable component group...That is BS.....There are hundreds of thousands of weekend warriors that ride Tiagra and Sora every weekend with no issues at all...and they are perfectly content until they come to a site like RBR where us "experts" tell them they have sub par components......
> 
> We elevate the playing field too often with our opinions and comments when at the end of the day most of us have probably never even ridden these lower end groups...


This is exactly where I am. I am a total noob to say the least and whenever I ask opinions when I find a bike I like, I hear that junk becuase it has 2300/Sora or even at times tiagra. I have yet to buy a bike because the bikes I like have these lower end components. What is the truth about components really?


----------



## Guy Smiley

@CCD1977:
If you have the money, of course the higher-end componenets are better, especially when you really start to get "good" and fast (like at the level where you're shaving your legs because you expect to crash from pushing your limits) But the "cheap" stuff will do fine until you're at that level.


----------



## ccd1977

Guy Smiley said:


> @CCD1977:
> If you have the money, of course the higher-end componenets are better, especially when you really start to get "good" and fast (like at the level where you're shaving your legs because you expect to crash from pushing your limits) But the "cheap" stuff will do fine until you're at that level.


This is exactly what I have been needing to hear. I don't think I will be shaving my legs anytime soon. Thank you.


----------



## dnewnham

barclay1978 said:


> Great thread - love everyone's thoughts/ideas. I stumbled across this bike in my LBS and it wasn't even close to being on my radar, however, it is now at the top of the list. Shopping for my first true road bike (I ride my mountain bike fairly consistently weather permitting) so this has been a pretty steep learning curve.
> 
> Couple of questions - as I mentioned, I am shopping for my first road bike and was focused on entry level alu bikes until the allez hit the radar. Do you think it is a mistake buying this as a primary road bike? I plan to use it for training, excercise, and sprint tri's... Also, the weight seems to be an issue for a lot of you. Is that truly a concern for a beginner and/or will I notice the difference? Finally, can i make this a triple or only a compact? I am not overly concerned with the fact it's a double but it would be nice to know i can change it in the future. According to a few shops that sell these DT shifters they are capable of going to a triple.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help.


My Allez is my only road bike and I often ride with groups of carbon and aluminum bikes and have no problem keeping up, even on hills. The downtube shifters work great but I'm not sure if they will work wth a triple. A couple of guys on this or another forum switched to a compact and one changed his cassette to an 11 tooth cog which keeps the high end gearing almost the same as stock. From what I have heard, compacts offer advantages over triples so you may want to go that route. I competed in my first tri last week and the Allez did just fine. Most TT courses are flat, so weight is not really much of an issue.

As I improve I'll probably get a lighter bike (I'm liking the look of a Cervelo S1), but the Allez is a fun reliable ride that I'll always use for training.


----------



## WMBigs

One thing to check out with the lower end components- tighten the crank arm to spindle bolts. Do this when brand new and check frequently until you get some miles on them. Other wise the left crank arm may wallow out and need replacing. I got burned once on that, so I check all mine like that from time to time. This is only needed with the square taper bottom brackets.


----------



## supercres

I finally acquired all the parts for my drivetrain upgrade project, and got most of the way through it last night. Components used:

Crank: Ultegra FC-6500
BB: 105 BB-5500
Cassette: Ultegra CD-6500 11-23*
RD: Ultegra RD-6500
FD: Dura-Ace FD-7700
Shifters: DA SL-7700

* I'm a little worried about my cassette choice; I guess I didn't think too much about _never hitting the small cog_ :mad2: Ah well. That's what I get for being impulsive, and it's an easy thing to switch out.

The DA shifters are actually a little heavier than the stock shifters, but of course, they're 9-speed indexed instead of 8.

Can't wait to get it out on the road, but it looks like I'll have to wait for next weekend-- the Philly Bike Race might make it tough to get a good ride in tomorrow or Sunday.

All told, including the wheels and tires, I've shaved almost 2.5 pounds off the stock weight. Can't wait to see how that feeeeeeeels.


----------



## supercres

And for those of you asking about weight, I weighed each component as it came off. (It was on my kitchen scale, which I think is accurate to the gram.) I'm also listing the weights of what I replaced it with (see above) as a comparison.

Stock crankset: 873g
FC-6500: 636g

Stock BB: 298g
BB-5500: 245g

Stock RD: 273g
RD-6500: 218g

Stock FD: 116g
FD-7700: 83g

Stock 8s cassette: 334g
9s CS-6500: 191g

Stock front wheel + tire + tube: 1432g
Stock rear wheel + tire + tube: 1680g

New* front wheel + tire + tube: 1188g
New rear wheel + tire + tube: 1338g

* New wheels are Velocity Aerohead/Aerohead OC laced to 32h Ultegra hubs, 6700 I think. Hutchinson kevlar tires.

Worth the trouble for 1150 grams? Who knows. But now I have better parts on hand when I upgrade the frame.

Next: Bars, brakes + levers, tape, and stem. Anyone tried putting a quill on this frame? It's a 1-inch headtube, so it shouldn't require any special fiddling, right?


----------



## buck-50

supercres said:


> Next: Bars, brakes + levers, tape, and stem. Anyone tried putting a quill on this frame? It's a 1-inch headtube, so it shouldn't require any special fiddling, right?


Can't put a quill on that thing unless you swap the fork and headset, AFAIK...


----------



## supercres

I know it would require a new headset (something like this from Velo Orange), but is there really fork incompatibility between threaded and threadless headsets? I know the installation procedure is complex; it wasn't something I was even considering doing at home.


----------



## buck-50

supercres said:


> I know it would require a new headset (something like this from Velo Orange), but is there really fork incompatibility between threaded and threadless headsets? I know the installation procedure is complex; it wasn't something I was even considering doing at home.


Well, there's the complete lack of threads which are kinda crucial with a threaded headset...

Might be possible to have threads cut into the steerer, might also be possible to fit a quill stem in the steerer tube... but it might not, either. Don't know if a threadless steerer has the same ID as a threaded one. Let us know if works. I'd imagine you'd want to take it to one of the more adventurous bike shops in town to ask if it's possible.


----------



## supercres

Ah, okay. That's the piece of information I was missing-- that forks come in threaded and threadless flavors. I thought the term referred to threads on the headset or something. :blush2:

Maybe I'll look into these straight and curved lugged forks from Soma. Pretty. Or maybe I'll save the whole idea for the next build.


----------



## buck-50

supercres said:


> Ah, okay. That's the piece of information I was missing-- that forks come in threaded and threadless flavors. I thought the term referred to threads on the headset or something. :blush2:
> 
> Maybe I'll look into these straight and curved lugged forks from Soma. Pretty. Or maybe I'll save the whole idea for the next build.


Seriously, you should check your local shop or a friend who has an spare old quill stem- if that fits, all that you need is a headset and someone to cut the threads into the steerer- shouldn't be too hard for any competent machine shop to do- It might be something a bike shop could do. Probably pretty cheap. 

Definitely less expensive than a new fork, and it would match.

If the quill fits, great, if it doesn't you aren't out anything.

And VO has also got some really nice looking polished threadless stems that would look awesome on that bike.


----------



## bkbcboy

*New to the Double Steel Block*

I'm new to the entire biking community (total rookie - this is my first non-garbage, road bike), but I went out and purchased this bike before I read anyone's reviews and have apparently come to the same conclusion: it's a quality, fun bike at a great price! It's also a nice one to upgrade because the of the steel frame. I have begun the upgrade process myself with random parts from here and there. 

Upgrades to date: FSA Gossamer crank I inherited from a buddy (who traded me the barely used compact crankset and a FSA carbon fiber seatpost for a rack of beer). I purchased a set of NOS Mavic CXP 12s with Shimano 600 hubs from a dude through craigslist (I couldn't resist the semi-aero, old-schoolish look), and he threw in a nice, new (and light) SRAM 8 speed cassette. Finally, the white Avatar seat from and Shimano 105 pedals (which are coincidentally, my first set of clip-in pedals.. man, what a difference!) were purchased from my LBS.

I imagine I won't stop here, I'll keep picking up things to upgrade. I've thought about upgrading the DT shifters to Dura Ace (since I'm a fan of DT shifters), anyone with experience with those?? I've even considered having the fork powder coated chrome... yum.

Overall, I'm loving the bike. Weight isn't much of an issue because being new I don't really know any different (but there is a noticeable difference between the stock set-up and the weight of the bike now). It works great for sucking up the rumble of the less-than-perfect roads around where I live. Even if I get another bike, this one is staying in the stable as the trusty daily driver, I'm diggin' it.

Now, to see if I can get some pics posted of the upgrades thus far...


----------



## frpax

Nice upgrades on a modern classic! DON'T powder-coat it, though. It;s awesome as-is.

You could get a racier (more aero) position, by flipping the stem... :thumbsup:


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## felix5150

bkbcboy said:


> I imagine I won't stop here, I'll keep picking up things to upgrade. I've thought about upgrading the DT shifters to Dura Ace (since I'm a fan of DT shifters), anyone with experience with those?? I've even considered having the fork powder coated chrome... yum.


Congratulations on the new bike! I like your upgrades. I have DA DT shifters on my bike and absolutely love them. This bike is my daily rider and even sees some of my Saturday group rides over my Tarmac, mainly because of the ride quality.


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## dnewnham

Climbed Burnt Mountain twice with friends in North Georgia. I created a mongrel 13-28 cassette by combining the standard Shimano 13-26 with a SRAM 11-28 and it works great. The 11 and 12 tooth cogs just seemed too small to be useful. The north side of the hill was very steep with a 20% section but I was able to grind slowly up in the 28 so I was glad I added it. The rivets that held together the 6 largest cogs on each cassette are easy to drill out so I can now tinker with different ratios. I think I need a 30 tooth cog or a compact crank with a 34 before I tackle Brasstown Bald.




























I posted this on the other forum but reposted here for those that are not members over there!


----------



## roysmack

*my slightly modified Allez Steel*

Ive added:

black Mavic Aksium Race Wheels

black Ritchey WCS compact crankset

swapped in my mt bike's WTB seat and Ritchey seatpost since it fits me perfectly

love this bike!!! about to take off on a car aided tour of the pacific NW!!!


----------



## roysmack

Just got back from my trip and had an awesome time on my bike. Probably put about 400 miles on it riding on a variety of terrain from silky smooth paved trails to some really bumpy gravel and dirt trails. This bike can handle it all. I put on some Continental GP 4000 tires just before I left and I found them to be incredible, not one flat tire!! These tires are great!!


----------



## nickl75

Cervelo-er said:


> Why don't they just offer the frameset for $300 and be done with it? Seems like this is a great alternative to the Pacer and without the hideous decals of a Kona...


I love this frame and think it's a beautiful looking bike. My first "real" bike was a similar frame (lugged though) with Shimano 300EX & downtube shifters. I enjoyed that bike for a long time.

But let's be honest - the frameset has got to be worth less than $150 for Specialized to do the bike at that price. 

There's a great "find me a sub $600 bike" thread on here somewhere, and that contains some interesting bikes. Judging from that I think this bike might struggle because of the lack of brifters. Pity, because I'd love to see more of these around.


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## twrecks

I thought I would check in again since I have been riding my Allez for 6 months now. Although I had great aspirations, my checkbook had other ideas so my bike is still rolling just the same as it was last February. The only real change I made was swapping out the down tube shifters for integrated shifters, which have been holding up nicely.

So far this year I have rode it on 2 metric and one regular centuries and tons of miles around here for fun. 

Although every time I lift it up I am amazed at how heavy it is, it really does ride nicely and is comfortable on all days rides like no other bike I have ever had. 

Hopefully in the coming months I can start to upgrade a bit, I really want some lighter wheels and tires, and I am not in love with the steel fork.


----------



## LesPaulPlayer

twrecks said:


> Although every time I lift it up I am amazed at how heavy it is, it really does ride nicely and is comfortable on all days rides like no other bike I have ever had.


I've always wondered how much the _weight_ itself has to do with ride quality separate from the damping/lively properties of steel itself. In other words, if the frame was a pound lighter with no other change, would the ride quality still be there?



> ...and I am not in love with the steel fork.


What is it you don't like about the fork? I would imagine that it's part of the nice ride you're experiencing...or maybe not?

I acquired a quad-butted chromoly 1985 Team Fuji back in March which is approximately a pound lighter than an Allez Steel Double of similar size, but the ride is noticeably stiffer and harder than the Allez Steel. However, the Team Fuji does has very tight geometry; 74º x 75º...


----------



## Lazy Spinner

I wandered into the LBS this afternoon and saw the 2011 version...BLACK.


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## e39540is

Lazy Spinner said:


> I wandered into the LBS this afternoon and saw the 2011 version...BLACK.


I just checked out the Specialized website, and saw the black. It looks nice, but I still like my red one.

I am glad they are still making the Allez Steel. I love the comments that I get with this bike. I am known for riding vintage steel, so lots of people ask me what year my Allez is, and they dont believe me when I say it is a 2010. I am having a blast with this bike.:thumbsup:


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## jerrycan42

I was going to buy the 2010 earlier this year, but then I found an 88 with full Ultegra ( 7 spd mind you) 88 allez with tange double butted tubes in mint condition. 

This puppy was built up custom in 88 with MAVIC CD4 rims and DT swiss butted spokes.

http://drop.io/allez1988

MY Mods:
- swapped out the Modulo stem for something stiffer (a giant 120mm with 90 deg)
- switched from the 42 cm Modolo bars to a Cinelli VIA 44cm (my size)
- Double sided SPD pedals
- Vetta Lite saddle (Came with a Vetta SL which is in the picture)
- 100GS mountain shifter on the bar BLASPHEMY!!!!!(MUST....WIN....CLUB....SPRINTS)
- 2 American Classic bottle cages

Before and after:


----------



## Lazy Spinner

Anyone know what the frameset weight is? How about rear spacing? I'm considering buying one (under $550 at LBS) and throwing my 105 9 speed stuff on it to use as a daily driver.


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## felix5150

Don't know what the frame weighs, but my current setup comes in around 22 lbs. I have a 10 spd cassette on mine, so rear spacing is not a problem for the 105 groupo.


----------



## jerrycan42

Seems about right. my 88 with 7spd ultegra pulls in a 21.6 lbs on a trade scale


----------



## nachomc

I have a black double on order. It should be a nice compliment to my Tarmac and I'm excited to commute to work on it with some panniers so I can stop wearing my backpack. It gets heavy with my laptop in there :\.

I have some 105 wheels from my Tarmac that I'm going to put on immediately, and I'm looking for some decent Shimano 600 brakes/levers to upgrade and some 600 Ultegra or newer 105 stuff for the drive train. We shall see. As it was, the stock bike rode great and the shifting was very crisp even with the entry level components (albeit some der rub on the front).


----------



## M-theory

*Am I missing something?*

So the new color is black and the new price is $700 ...a 15% increase from last year. How's that for inflation? 

The price is no longer impressive considering the components. 

And from what I can see from the high resolution download, even the paint job is cheap-looking. It looks as though it were simply spray-painted black, without any masking involved to give it some character.

I'd like a steel bike, but I've just scratched this from the list.




Edit: Well at least the wheels have been upgraded to Mavic cxp22.


----------



## e39540is

Well, it is time for me to replace the tires that came on my Allez Steel. Has anyone verified that a 700x28 will fit?

Also what are your opinions about the tire that came with the bike? I put a rear rack, and panniers on mine, I dont carry much weight, and I am only 145lbs myself, but these tires are trashed with less then 1000 miles on them.


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## gospastic

I love this bike. I am thinking of picking one up to transfer all the nice-weather bike parts to for the winter. Hopefully I can get it under 20lbs.


----------



## e39540is

e39540is said:


> Well, it is time for me to replace the tires that came on my Allez Steel. Has anyone verified that a 700x28 will fit?
> 
> Also what are your opinions about the tire that came with the bike? I put a rear rack, and panniers on mine, I dont carry much weight, and I am only 145lbs myself, but these tires are trashed with less then 1000 miles on them.


Its a good thing I did not get a 28. I ended up buying a 25 gatorskin, and there is maybe a 16th of an inch between the derailleur clamp, and the tire. In fact the little nipples actually touch the clamp.


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## twrecks

Heading out for my second century of 2010 on my Allez on Sunday, a few of us are meeting up and riding the Backroads Century in Western VA.. I did swap out the tires and tubes a few weeks ago for Panaracers that were on sale at Performance, but otherwise no changes.


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## ssm-gd3

At $700, would you still buy the 2011 version of this bike? The only difference I see is the cxp22 wheels. My lbs offered to order one for me, but the price has me on the fence.


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## gospastic

I am able to get the 2010 for $550, and the 2011 for $700. The price difference for just wheels doesn't seem worth it to me.


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## SilentAssassin

Not sure about this bike but wheels can make a huge difference. Wish there was more spacing for larger tires for commuting.


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## felix5150

2010 was a good price, the 2011 price is fair. If you're planning on making a lot of upgrades, it may not be worth it with the increase. To leave it stock and upgrade as parts wear out, I would buy it again. It really is a nice ride.


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## ssm-gd3

Would I be able to upgrade to a 9speed rear casette while retaining the downtube shifters? What about a 105 cassette, rd, and fd? I test rode a specialized allez with the same drivetrain (2300) and did not find it to switch gears very smoothly, so that is the biggest worry I have. Would you say that the bike I rode was just not set up correctly? I wont have an opportunity for a test ride so I just wantedto be extra sure. This is my first road bike... coming from the mountain bike world.

Thanks!


----------



## felix5150

The rear downtube shifter is indexed, so I don't think that it is compatible with 9 spd. Front dt shifter is friction, so it should work. On the Allez you test rode, did it have STI shifters? The reason I ask is because dt shifters seem to shift better because there's less friction in the shifting action, probably due to less cable pull and a more direct line to the derailleurs. I thought the 2300's had pretty crisp rd shifts, maybe not as smooth as 105s, but the shifts were always on.


----------



## Lazy Spinner

I'm primarily interested in just the frame and fork. I'd likely strip it and put the old 105 9 speed stuff from my alloy Trek on it. Would that be worth it?


----------



## felix5150

If you already have most of the components to upgrade, then IMHO it is worth it. I also have a Trek 1000 and the difference in ride quality is very noticeable. I never ride the Trek anymore and sometimes I pick the Allez over my Tarmac Pro for club rides and centuries.


----------



## ssm-gd3

felix5150 said:


> The rear downtube shifter is indexed, so I don't think that it is compatible with 9 spd. Front dt shifter is friction, so it should work. On the Allez you test rode, did it have STI shifters? The reason I ask is because dt shifters seem to shift better because there's less friction in the shifting action, probably due to less cable pull and a more direct line to the derailleurs. I thought the 2300's had pretty crisp rd shifts, maybe not as smooth as 105s, but the shifts were always on.


Yes they were sti shifters and not downtube. It seems like it would cost a lot to ever upgrade the drivrtrain on this thing. Hmm.


----------



## kabex

Bump. Anyone bought the 2011? What's up with the price increase?


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## dnewnham

I upgraded my Allez with 105 front and rear derailleurs a SRAM 11-28 cassette and a Velo Orange conpact crank. The shifting has not improved in any noticeable way as it was great with the original drive train. It was pretty cheap to pick up the parts off ebay...perhaps $25 for the FD, $45 for the rear.


----------



## hawker12

So, has anyone weighed just the frame? What is the lightest complete bike from anyone who has upgraded wheels and other components?


----------



## kabex

dnewnham said:


> I upgraded my Allez with 105 front and rear derailleurs a SRAM 11-28 cassette and a Velo Orange conpact crank. The shifting has not improved in any noticeable way as it was great with the original drive train. It was pretty cheap to pick up the parts off ebay...perhaps $25 for the FD, $45 for the rear.


Is it possible to run a compact crank with the original setup? what needs to be changed? lots of hills here.


----------



## dnewnham

kabex said:


> Is it possible to run a compact crank with the original setup? what needs to be changed? lots of hills here.


I don't think I actually ran my compact crank with the original derailleurs but I can't see why it would be a problem. I would think the chain might need to be shortened by perhaps 2 links and the FD moved down a bit. You might want to also change the cassette so you don't spin out too soon on downhills. This compares the original gearing to what I have now and you can see that I have a wider range with both higher and lower gear options:


----------



## hawker12

I went to one of Atlanta's biggest and oldest bike shops yesterday. They have been a primary Specialized dealer since the 80s at least. I asked one of the long-term employees about this bike and he had no idea what I was talking about. So together, we went through the catalog and found it. He kind of laughed and said there was no way they would bring in a steel bike with down tube shifters. And if they did, they would have to bring in one of every size to properly demo the bike. I explained to him how there was a bit of a resurgence in steel among some folks and how low the price was on this model, etc., etc. He just sort of laughed and looked at me like I had three heads. I asked if anyone else this past year had asked about the bike and he said not to his knowledge...again, he didn't even know of it's existence.

Interesting huh?


----------



## dnewnham

I got the same response at Roswell Bikes, but both Peachtree Bikes and Silver Comet Depot had them in stock and several guys that work at SCD own and appreciate steel bikes. You can guess which store I bought from  The laughing tends to stop when you ride with these guys.....


----------



## hawker12

dnewnham said:


> I got the same response at Roswell Bikes, but both Peachtree Bikes and Silver Comet Depot had them in stock and several guys that work at SCD own and appreciate steel bikes. You can guess which store I bought from  The laughing tends to stop when you ride with these guys.....


HA! Yes...it was Roswell Bikes. Not to dump on them though, I have a good friend that works there and they have always been fair to me.


----------



## dnewnham

hawker12 said:


> HA! Yes...it was Roswell Bikes. Not to dump on them though, I have a good friend that works there and they have always been fair to me.


Agreed, I like the store and buy there, just not bikes.


----------



## mrdelprete

Similar experience here. Went to my local shop and the kid working there looked at me like I was crazy. He had no idea what the Double Steel was, said Specialized only makes the Langster in steel, and hasn't made downtube shifters in forever. I had to take out my Droid and show it to him on the Specialized website. When the manager came back from lunch five minutes later, he was more informed. Apparently there is like 0 demand for them in my area nad he has not ordered ONE since they came out. Has anyone seen one in person? I would hate ti have the shop order one, not be able to bargain, and not be completely happy. They would charge me the full 2011 MSRP which is like $700


----------



## cs1

mrdelprete said:


> Similar experience here. Went to my local shop and the kid working there looked at me like I was crazy. He had no idea what the Double Steel was, said Specialized only makes the Langster in steel, and hasn't made downtube shifters in forever. I had to take out my Droid and show it to him on the Specialized website. When the manager came back from lunch five minutes later, he was more informed. Apparently there is like 0 demand for them in my area nad he has not ordered ONE since they came out. Has anyone seen one in person? I would hate ti have the shop order one, not be able to bargain, and not be completely happy. They would charge me the full 2011 MSRP which is like $700


I'm pretty sure there's going to be NO bargaining on a special order.


----------



## george kraushaar

I was the originator of this post some years ago and have not participated in this forum for some time. Shortly after my last post concerning this bike, I was surprisingly diagnosed with a serious heart issue; a barely working mitral valve in my heart. Emergency surgery repaired the valve and several bypasses were performed as well. After 3 months I was able to resume cycling and worked my way back up to about the same performance as before. Actually, I am faster on the flats and just as slow on the hills as I always was.

Somewhere along the line I trade the Spesh in on a used Gunnar Roadie. I was also able to purchase a barely ridden 1988 Spesh Sirrus in the exact same color as the Allez steel double. I have been riding the Gunnar for faster rides and the Sirrus as a winter bike. The Gunnar is definitely faster...

About 2 weeks ago my LBS informed me that the Allez was back in the shop, on consignment by the new owner who had not even ridden it in the intervening 1.5 years. I made a lowball offer for the heck of it, and it was accepted. I returned to the bike shop and brought it home anew for the second time.

The bike indeed was as clean as the day I traded it in. No scratches, no wear, same tires, even the Garmin computer mount I had left on it. I still had the original seatpost in my workshop. The bike shop gave me a used saddle and I was good to go.

Today I took the bike on its first ride; a beautifully sunny day here in the Smoky Mountains on US 28 alongside Cheoah Lake. I was surprised how lively the bike felt, how well it fitted me, and how fast I was on the ride. This bike is in the same league speed wise as the Gunnar and much faster than the old Sirrus. Since I had been riding the Sirrus with it D/T shifters so much lately, the D/Ts on the Allez felt sompletely natural. My riding partner did not know that I was riding a new bike (the Sirrus and Allez are exactly the same color) and he couldn't understand why he was having trouble keeping up and seemed surprised that our average speed was so much faster.

I've decided that I'm going to keep the Allez this time and probably the Sirrus as well, since I've had some very endearing rides on it as a part of my recovery. If anything gets gone, it will be the Roadie.


----------



## Doggity

This is all a very welcome trend...I prefer friction shifting as well, but wonder why they didn't just use Shimano's 8 speed bar end shifters, which are very well made, and maybe a bit less intimating to noobs than downtubes?


----------



## fn1889m

I am new to biking - kind of. When I was under 20, I have a pretty good Nishiki "10 speed", and did a couple long (1-2 week tours), rebuilt it once, but I have not had it since my late 20s. I want to get another road bike. I am now 56. I want a road bike for long one-day rides - 60 miles max, perhaps. But everything I knew 30 years ago seems obsolete now. A lot more choices, materials, etc. I have done a lot of internet research, and have decided to stick with a steel or aluminum frame. 

So dummy question - I am looking at this bike - Specialized Double Steel, which I can get a a local shop for about $650, and a Raleigh Clubman - the REI sale price for the 2009 model is $930, if any are left. Otherwise about $1050 for the current model. The Raleigh Grand Prix is a little nicer, but a little more money.

So the question is whether you think the Specialized is a good deal, or should I just bite the bullet and spend the other $400? I live in hilly country - NW Washington, up against the Cascades.


----------



## e39540is

Hmm, that is a tough choice. I bought my Allez because I like downtube shifters. I have never looked at the grand prix before today, but I like the lugged frame, and the nicer components, but I dont need sti shifters. It also does not have the rear rack mounts that the Allez has.

I dont think you could make a bad choice either way. I would say, ride both, and go with your gut.


----------



## matchmaker

fn1889m said:


> I am new to biking - kind of. When I was under 20, I have a pretty good Nishiki "10 speed", and did a couple long (1-2 week tours), rebuilt it once, but I have not had it since my late 20s. I want to get another road bike. I am now 56. I want a road bike for long one-day rides - 60 miles max, perhaps. But everything I knew 30 years ago seems obsolete now. A lot more choices, materials, etc.  I have done a lot of internet research, and have decided to stick with a steel or aluminum frame.
> 
> So dummy question - I am looking at this bike - Specialized Double Steel, which I can get a a local shop for about $650, and a Raleigh Clubman - the REI sale price for the 2009 model is $930, if any are left. Otherwise about $1050 for the current model. The Raleigh Grand Prix is a little nicer, but a little more money.
> 
> So the question is whether you think the Specialized is a good deal, or should I just bite the bullet and spend the other $400? I live in hilly country - NW Washington, up against the Cascades.


If you ask me, the Raleighs are far superior. I had a look at the Clubman and the GP and I think they are very nice entry level bikes with a good choice of components. The Clubman even has a Brooks saddle and all kinds of extras. Looking at it, it might be one of the most versatile bikes and best values out there.


----------



## Al Young

*Possible alternative*

I've been following this thread for quite a while.I was regretting not making a move on one of these pre '11 pricing.I can't find one currently in stock and there is a $20+ charge to order my size,putting the bike at $749 plus Ca.sales tax (9.5%).A few component upgrades and I no longer see this as a bargain.
Which brings me to this.Checked out BD today and there was a Reynolds 520 road bike at $699.No tax,no shipping charges.Here's the details............
Schwinn LE Tour
Shimano 105 derailleurs
" 105 STI levers/Tektro 358 brake calipers
FSA gossamer compact crank/34-50
Shimano 12-25 cassette
Mavic CXP-22 rims/generic hubs
Continental Ultra Sport 28's...(I don't think these would fit the Allez).
Many upgrades over the Allez Double steel.
When I read all the component change outs made by everyone that wants to upgrade and how similar they are to this bike as is (wheels,crank,etc.) it seems like a really good deal.
The bike is not as retro in appearance.The rims and brakes are silver,everything else is black.The top tube is slanted.Otherwise,it should have the ride of Reynolds 520.


----------



## kabex

That Schwinn is awesome for the price, you could switch out those 5600 levers for 5700 for little money and make it even better.


----------



## fn1889m

I ended up buying a used older Trek aluminum frame road bike. It was once high end. $275. I may have over-paid a little, but no tears. I think I will ride this for a while, and get back in the game. After some research and getting an idea of what my body (which is 38 years older than when I was a regular rider,) can do, I will look at getting an upper end road bike. I don't think I know enough yet to get THE bike, and need to just ride. Maybe build a custom bike later. Thanks for the thread, though. A custom steel frame with DT shifters would be nice.


----------



## erikhortsch

commuted for a season my allez steel, and over the winter decided to do a bit of upgrading:










dt shifters were definitely part of the initial attraction to this bike, along with steel. got a great deal on the bike for working at one of their retailers. always loved sram's road groups, so i figured this would be the bike to put it on


----------



## fn1889m

The Trek had a blown head tube. So I have some vintage spare parts for which I overpaid. I am determined to build a steel frame bike, and will use some of the parts just to get revenge.

I found a new 2009 Raleigh Clubman for $800. Bought it.

BTW, the local shop was selling out their Specialized Double Steel for $495.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## george kraushaar

Lately I've been riding my old '88 Sirrus and the Double Steel exclusively and feel completely at home with my DT shifters. My Roadie has Campy ergo shifters and the only time I take it out is for the occasional fast club riding. It is lighter than the other two, primarily because of the lighter wheels. I like the handling of the double steel better, though.


----------



## jtday1028

I bought a 2010 Allez about a month ago and I am looking into converting to Brifters. What all do I need to buy? Just the Shimano 2300 STI shifters and D/T Cable Stops?


----------



## kabex

jtday1028 said:


> I bought a 2010 Allez about a month ago and I am looking into converting to Brifters. What all do I need to buy? Just the Shimano 2300 STI shifters and D/T Cable Stops?


Pretty much, should be no more than $150

You can get them at Amazon.


----------



## jtday1028

Ok great, I appreciate the help! now what about these cable stops? they appear to come in a couple different options, which ones do I need? flat, concave, convex? Also does anyone have any experience with the 2300 brifters?


----------



## tihsepa

jtday1028 said:


> Ok great, I appreciate the help! now what about these cable stops? they appear to come in a couple different options, which ones do I need? flat, concave, convex? Also does anyone have any experience with the 2300 brifters?


Get the MiCroshift integrated shifters. They are wayyyyyyy better than the low end Shimanos. We just got a dozen Felts with them and they are prety good and Shimano compatable. Way better shifting that 2300 or Sora.


----------



## jtday1028

I'm looking at upgrading my crankset to a 2008 tiagra crankset, if its the same size (175mm, 52x39t), can I just swap them out? Or will I have to replace the bottom bracket?


----------



## tihsepa

The BB is different.


----------



## cs1

Doggity said:


> This is all a very welcome trend...I prefer friction shifting as well, but wonder why they didn't just use Shimano's 8 speed bar end shifters, which are very well made, and maybe a bit less intimating to noobs than downtubes?


My feelings exactly. I prefer barcons on almost everything. Most beginners have a hard time shifting them though. If I have the Allez barcons would be my first investment after a Brooks saddle.


----------



## cs1

tihsepa said:


> Get the MiCroshift integrated shifters. They are wayyyyyyy better than the low end Shimanos. We just got a dozen Felts with them and they are prety good and Shimano compatable. Way better shifting that 2300 or Sora.


As I said in my last post, I prefer barcons. With that said, the wife doesn't and is looking at upgrading her old bike, not an Allez. Microshift was something we were looking at. Can you give a review? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## jtday1028

Check out the conversion:

Before:









and After:


----------



## jtday1028

Wow, this bike looks great. really digging the 'vintage' makeover, the chrome accessories make a big difference. All you need now is a white Brooks B17 saddle!


----------



## MetalSlug

My 2010 Allez


----------



## dr4cats

*I joined the club*

Ordered my steel double today size 54...in red, of course....everyone knows the red ones are faster. 

Will change wheels to Mavic Equipe, compact crank and lighter bar/stem (all items hanging around my garage).

Will be added to my small stable (Tarmac + Le Champion Ti Team).

Nice looking machine. Perfect match for a 52 year old who needs a few memories of his teenage riding years. 

Hope not on backorder........


----------



## dr4cats

*Urgent: Size /diameter of seat tube ?*

Could one of you double steel riders, tell me the diameter size of the seat tube so I can order the right size of clamp-on front derailleur...???? My bike is on order so I can't measure it myself.

I am upgrading to 10 speed....but still will keep the DT shifters (upgraded to DA 7900 10 speed ones).

Many Thanks in advance

Cheers


----------



## cs1

dr4cats said:


> Could one of you double steel riders, tell me the diameter size of the seat tube so I can order the right size of clamp-on front derailleur...???? My bike is on order so I can't measure it myself.
> 
> I am upgrading to 10 speed....but still will keep the DT shifters (upgraded to DA 7900 10 speed ones).
> 
> Many Thanks in advance
> 
> Cheers


I thought they were 28.6, which is getting hard to find new. Campy hasn't made that size in years.


----------



## dbong87

Can someone tell me if this is a good deal? 2010 Specialized Allez steel, equipped with 3x8 Sora drivetrain, w/ a 105 rear derailleur, carbon fiber seatpost and handlebar. All for $300. 
I'm new to road biking, well this will be my first road bike. I do mostly mountain biking. My primary use for this bike will be for commuting. Thanks ahead.


----------



## onlineflyer

dbong87 said:


> Can someone tell me if this is a good deal? 2010 Specialized Allez steel, equipped with 3x8 Sora drivetrain, w/ a 105 rear derailleur, carbon fiber seatpost and handlebar. All for $300.
> I'm new to road biking, well this will be my first road bike. I do mostly mountain biking. My primary use for this bike will be for commuting. Thanks ahead.


That is a great price if the bike fits properly. I would jump on it.


----------



## dbong87

onlineflyer said:


> That is a great price if the bike fits properly. I would jump on it.


Just came home with it. It fits real nice IMO, probably a shorter stem would be better. I'm still not used to the bike yet (riding position), this is my first road bike. It has Specialized S-Works carbon fiber handlebar and seatpost. It also has Selle Italia Nekkar saddle. Seller is a LBS mechanic and he said that the handlebar, seatpost, and saddle itself cost 350. The frame is still immaculate. If it wasn't for school, I would be riding it right now.


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## onlineflyer

Congrats on the new bike. With the upgrades, it's even a better deal. Ride it with a smile. You got yourself a great bike.


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## jerrycan42

That is an incredible find. You made out like a bandit.


----------



## dbong87

jerrycan42 said:


> That is an incredible find. You made out like a bandit.


Haha I really don't know much about road bike but I'm guessing this is a heck of a deal. I'll post some pictures up when I get a chance and you can tell me whether the specs are alright or not.


----------



## felix5150

congrats on the new bike :thumbsup: hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine!


----------



## DJZ

I want to use an old set of wheels for wet weather commuting/riding with wider tires. Has anyone mounted a 28mm tire on an Allez Steel by any chance? I know that 25s will fit without issue, but would like to run 28s if they will fit.

Thanks.


----------



## e39540is

I put gatorskin 25s on mine, and they rubbed the front deraileur clamp, so I would say good chance 28s wont fit. On the back at least.


----------



## DJZ

That's a bummer, I tried the 25s that came on the Secteur (Specialized All Conditions) before I sold it and it seemed OK. I only road it around the block but I did not notice any rub with those, but I did not go very far either...


----------



## e39540is

e39540is said:


> I put gatorskin 25s on mine, and they rubbed the front deraileur clamp, so I would say good chance 28s wont fit. On the back at least.


I should clear up my statement from earier. It is just the seam on the brand new 25 gaterskins, that rubbed. After a few miles they where fine. With that said 28 gators prob wont fit. If you are in good with your lbs, they may let you try some other 28s to see if they will clear.


----------



## cs1

Anyone know how the Allez runs size wise? What Spec calls a 54 has a 56cm ST and a 55cm TT. That's more what I call a 56. Seeing as none of the Spec LBS's in my area stock them it's hard to get a feel for what size to buy.


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## LesPaulPlayer

Specialized road bikes are sized numerically lower than many other bikes. For example, I've found that a size "56" is actually closer to a traditionally sized 58cm. You've already done the right thing by checking the geometry measurements. That's a good place to start.

Specialized sized the Allez Double Steel to match the rest of the Competitive Road line. It does not match up directly with vintage steel Allez bikes.


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## DJZ

I ride a 56cm Tarmac and a 56cm Steel Allez and just sold my former 56cm Secteur. I would test fit yourself on one of their other bikes and see what size fits you best that way.


----------



## M-theory

While its true, for example, that a size 52cm has a 54cm ST, it is really still a size '52'....because the top of the seat-tube extends a couple of extra cm higher above the top-tube than on most bikes. 

So while the measurements are a bit misleading, the 'size' is probably about what you'd expect.


----------



## cs1

M-theory said:


> While its true, for example, that a size 52cm has a 54cm ST, it is really still a size '52'....because the top of the seat-tube extends a couple of extra cm higher above the top-tube than on most bikes.
> 
> So while the measurements are a bit misleading, the 'size' is probably about what you'd expect.


So, they measure to the top of the seat tube. That explains it. I assumed, wrongly, that it was C-C. That means I should buy based on TT length. 

Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, my LBS doesn't stock the bike but they will order one.


----------



## M-theory

One other thing...the head tube is awfully short and there are not many spacers. So if you size the bike from the TT length, they'll be a very racy drop between the saddle height to the handlebar height. The Allez really has a race geometry...but its accessorized with heavy components. 

I ended up reversing the handlebar stem for a bit more comfort. And I upgraded the wheels to very fast Ksyrium Elites. The Elites offer a super smooth ride when coupled with the Reynolds steel and Vredestein Fortezza tires. Going downhill and diving into corners is where this bike setup really shines. Its so much more stable and solid than my CF bike. There's really no going back.

Here's a pic of the latest incarnation with a custom paint job. I do think the stock Specialized Riva saddle is an incredibly comfortable saddle and I may put it back on. But for the pic that's a Masi saddle. 

View attachment 245143


I have yet to upgrade to Dura-Ace 10 Speed shifters. The reason for doing so is primarily because the 10 speed Ultegra cassettes are much lighter than any 8 speed cassette. Probably a full pound lighter. Bike as shown, with rack, is roughly 25 lbs. By removing the rack, and upgrading the cassette, it'd be below 23ibs...which is more reasonable. (Size 52 cm)


----------



## DJZ

Out of curiosity, what year is your Allez?

I have a 56cm 2011 with:
Ksyrium Elite wheels
full Ultegra 10 speed drivetrain
Dura Ace DT shifters
105 brakes
R600 brake levers
Thomson Elite seat post 
2 bottle cages
SPD520 pedals 
Topeak rack

and mine still weighs in at about 26lbs


----------



## M-theory

Its the 2011 version. I actually only bought the bike 2 months ago (September). 

My weighing is merely stepping on and off a scale with and without holding the bike...so the measurement is rough. But I would imagine the 56cm has got to weigh a bit more than the 52. 

While writing this post, I double-checked the weight and it was 24.6 lbs. 

131.8 without bike (my weight)
156.4 (me holding bike)


----------



## DJZ

I just went out to double check mine as well, Mine was just over 26lbs, but that included my seat bag with tools and a tube. Without the bag it weighed in at 24.45 and without the Lezine road drive pump it was at 24.25 lbs. This was measured with a Feedback Sports scale for what it's worth.


----------



## M-theory

Makes sense. I always remove the tool bag and pump before weighing the bike. I even take the Garmin off. 

Oh and I do have an Ultegra 10 spd chain as opposed to the much heavier stock chain.


----------



## DJZ

Forgot to say earlier, your bike looks great. 

I have been thinking about going with a brown Selle An-Atomica saddle and bar tape, and seeing yours makes me want to do it even more. I'd also like to find a polished or chrome rack as well, I think it would blend better with my bike than the black rack I currently have on there as well.


----------



## cs1

M-theory said:


> One other thing...the head tube is awfully short and there are not many spacers. So if you size the bike from the TT length, they'll be a very racy drop between the saddle height to the handlebar height. The Allez really has a race geometry...but its accessorized with heavy components.
> 
> I ended up reversing the handlebar stem for a bit more comfort. And I upgraded the wheels to very fast Ksyrium Elites. The Elites offer a super smooth ride when coupled with the Reynolds steel and Vredestein Fortezza tires. Going downhill and diving into corners is where this bike setup really shines. Its so much more stable and solid than my CF bike. There's really no going back.
> 
> Here's a pic of the latest incarnation with a custom paint job. I do think the stock Specialized Riva saddle is an incredibly comfortable saddle and I may put it back on. But for the pic that's a Masi saddle.
> 
> View attachment 245143
> 
> 
> I have yet to upgrade to Dura-Ace 10 Speed shifters. The reason for doing so is primarily because the 10 speed Ultegra cassettes are much lighter than any 8 speed cassette. Probably a full pound lighter. Bike as shown, with rack, is roughly 25 lbs. By removing the rack, and upgrading the cassette, it'd be below 23ibs...which is more reasonable. (Size 52 cm)


That bike captures what a classic road bike is. All we need is to find a forged quill stem for you.


----------



## DJZ

The more I ride my steel Allez, the more I love it! It is slower than my Tarmac, but it is such a comfortable and easy bike to ride.


----------



## M-theory

I think the camera angle makes the the handlebars look disproportionately huge. But otherwise, its nice to see how radically different a size 56 looks in comparison to a 52. It may be the tubing is size-specific because the tubes are definitely beefier on yours. The Ultegra crank really dresses it up.

Your Ksyrium Elites are chrome...so I can see why you might think a chrome rack would look better. But first I'd put back the original seat stem...that would add a bit of chrome. And a solid black bar tape would help to match the with the black rack.


It appears Specialized is out of the steel business for 2012. Not only have they discontinued the Allez but even the Langster is now aluminum. 

Meanwhile, I recently purchased a 2011 Masi Speciale CX Uno to do some trail riding. As it turns out... I really don't care much for the off-road riding. So I decided to upgrade the CX..and turn it into another road bike. With a faster set of wheels and tires, a 10 speed chain, I have to say that the MASI is just as awesome as the Allez. Maybe not as 'solid'...but certainly as buttery smooth of a ride. And the fit is better. A normal sized headtube...so there's no need to reverse the stem.

While I do prefer the DT shifters of the Allez.. ultimately the smooth ride is the most important thing....and the Masi CX Chromoly did not disappoint. Its definitely a reasonably priced alternative for any one looking for a steel bike now that the Allez has been discontinued.


----------



## DJZ

My LBS was having a blowout sale on the polished Ksyrium Elites, they were $200 less than the black version so I went with them. 

I picked the tape that had the white stitching in it to match the seat, but I agree with you and think solid black might look better next time around. Those are not the stock bars, they are a set of Deda bars a friend gave to me. I think I am going to put the stock set back on soon though, I just can't seem to find a comfort zone with these. 

I bought the black Thomson Elite post for my Tarmac so I could tow a pedal trailer for my daughter. It did not work out so well, the bike was just too light to handle the weight of the trailer and my daughter, I could feel her every move through the bike and it was unsettling at times. I put the stock CF post back on the Tarmac when I bought the Allez and put the Thomson on the Allez. I doubt I will put the stock post back on, I would hate to see such a nice post collecting dust on a shelf.


----------



## garbec

Love these bikes... Missed the boat - would love to find a 52cm...


----------



## azracer

i just got one !!


----------



## carlosivanr

This is one of my favorite threads on this site. I recently came across a 52cm and use it to commute.


----------



## pista86

Here is my bike got it march 2011 put over 3k miles. installed 02-03 Campagnolo Centaur a few weeks ago and they shift like a dream. she is my training bike and well also be my race bike. until i finish with the Soma Smoothie build.


----------



## azracer

Has anyone converted their Allez to 10 speed ??


----------



## pista86

azracer said:


> Has anyone converted their Allez to 10 speed ??


Yes with Campagnolo Centaur


----------



## azracer

pista86 said:


> Yes with Campagnolo Centaur


Ok, cool. I saw your post but was thrown off when you said '02. I was thinking that could still be 8 or 9 speed.

I've already but about 500 miles on this thing and I don't see myself getting rid of it anytime soon. With that said, the only thing i was contemplating changing was the gearing and throwing some sti shifters on there.

Thanks pista.


----------



## DJZ

azracer said:


> Has anyone converted their Allez to 10 speed ??


I went 10spd Ultegra with Dura Ace down tube shifters on mine.


----------



## felix5150

i went 10 spd DA with DT shifters, was going back and forth on whether to go sti, but figured the dt shifter were cheap enough that if i didn't want to keep them, it was no big deal. At this point, i'm keeping them DT.


----------



## UtahBloke

What would be a decent price for the 2011 allez double steel right now. I'm seeing one for 600 used in a local listing.


----------



## pista86

UtahBloke said:


> What would be a decent price for the 2011 allez double steel right now. I'm seeing one for 600 used in a local listing.


that's the price of a new one with stock parts. there's a LBS in NY that still has one new size 52 cm $600


----------



## UtahBloke

pista86 said:


> that's the price of a new one with stock parts. there's a LBS in NY that still has one new size 52 cm $600


Thank you, maybe i'll offer him 400 for, or is that still to much 350? Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Delete_Yourself

Shoulda bought one when I had the chance. Such a sweet bike. Would have totally rocked out the American Flyers theme too. Oh well, maybe next time.


----------



## pista86

UtahBloke said:


> Thank you, maybe i'll offer him 400 for, or is that still to much 350? Thanks for the reply.


That sounds like a like a good price to me.


----------



## jtday1028

I'm in the process of re-vintaging my 2010 Allez. It was my first road bike so I had tried to make it as race-y as possible as cheaply as possible initially (I previously posted pics of that conversion... Page 9-Post 21) but I have since purchased a carbon bike for competitive cycling and the Allez is now my commuter. I have already purchased white perforated bar tape, a black Brooks B17 Narrow Saddle, Chrome caliper brakes, and old school chrome toe cages with black leather straps... gonna be very American Flyers looking, except I'm keeping the STI shifters... will post picks once the conversion is complete! (sometime next week)


----------



## azracer

*I got one.............wanna trade ??*

2010 Specialized Steel Allez
Reynolds 520 chrome-moly
56cm
8-Speed Shimano DT shifters
175 Crank (53/39)

I typically ride a 58cm, but saw this and snapped it up because I.............because........i just wanted it ok. No judging. 

All in all it's a great, fun little bike but i could just use a bit bigger frame. Even trade for same thing only 58 or trade plus some cash or open to cash offers. I'll put a $500 value on it in case someone wants to know.


----------



## UtahBloke

azracer said:


> 2010 Specialized Steel Allez
> Reynolds 520 chrome-moly
> 56cm
> 8-Speed Shimano DT shifters
> 175 Crank (53/39)
> 
> I typically ride a 58cm, but saw this and snapped it up because I.............because........i just wanted it ok. No judging.
> 
> All in all it's a great, fun little bike but i could just use a bit bigger frame. Even trade for same thing only 58 or trade plus some cash or open to cash offers. I'll put a $500 value on it in case someone wants to know.


I ride a 56, someone here is selling a new 58 for 550. swap?!?!?!


----------



## Seneb

I'm not sure if they still have it, but Bay Bikes in Carmel, Ca had a black 54cm last time I was in there. Pretty sweet looking bike that took me back to when I fell in love with road bikes.


----------



## jtday1028

Update... decided to convert the bike back to downtube shifters and got some chrome Tektro R200 brake levers.... I was tempted to keep the STI shifters on it since I paid for them and they are more convenient... but since this bike is now going to be my street clothes commuter bike, I thought converting it entirely back to vintage would look and feel more authentic (as well as stylish). I will post pics once the conversion is complete (next 2-3 days hopefully). I think it is going to turn out reallly nice looking, and about as close to the American Flyers aesthetic as this bike can get without a quill stem (and me with a mustache lol)

On a side note... if anyone is interested in some Shimano 2300 8-speed STI shifters... PM me...


----------



## Coolhand

*Moderators Note*

RBR Classified ad is only $2 (hint hint). . .


----------



## jtday1028

FINALLY got the Allez back from the bike shop after a month and a half! It took them forever to track down a part for the downtube shifters which I decided to put back on to fully retro it back out. I think it turned out really sharp though. Definitely worth the wait!


----------



## porkyramirez

My Allez is my favorite bike. The changes from stock are HED Bastogne wheels with security skewers, 105 pedals and a Specialized Alias saddle. There is a 25 Armadillo tire on the back with plenty of clearance. I love this bike because I can lock it to a lamppost in front of a bar, ride to work, and still use it for long rides and fast group rides. Downtube shifters make it a little more difficult to respond to sudden changes in speed, but for 99% of riding they are fine. 



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

And a Carradice bag makes it a commuter or light tourer.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## jtday1028

*Shimano 2300 8-speed shifters for sale*

Hey gang,

y'all have seen the evolution of my Allez through this thread, just wanted to let y'all know that I am selling off some of the components I had on the bike pre-vintage makeover. they include Easton EA30 wing-style handlebars size 42, 100mm Easton EA70 Stem and easton stem cap, Easton EA30 27.2 seatpost, Shimano SPD R540 clipless pedals, and perhaps of the most interest to posters inn this thread - Shimano 2300 8-speed STI shifters. All at reasonable prices on Ebay. The shifters can be seen here:

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

If your interested in the other items simply follow the link and click on my username to see the other listings.

Cheers,

JD


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## cs1

pista86 said:


> Yes with Campagnolo Centaur


Pics or it didn't happen.


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## ryanoceros

Hey folks,

New to this forum, normally a MTBer. I know very little about roadies, but was looking for something cheap that I could use on the trainer and for commuting/around town. I was pretty much looking for aluminum but came across a (black) '11 Allez Steel Double on Craigslist in my size and after reading the glowing reviews in this forum went and checked it out. Mint condition, came with a bunch of commuting extras (U-lock, lights, tube, under-saddle back, floor pump) and I got it for cheap! $200 (including the extras) for the folks looking for used pricing info above, although I doubt that should be used as a benchmark. My guy was selling out of cycling and looking to make space in his house. 

Got it out for the first ride today around town and on the bikepath and I have to say I love to ride it! As I mentioned I've got nothing to compare with, but the thing feels plenty sporty for my intended uses and I don't mind the DT shifters as much as I thought I would - I actually think they're pretty easy/fun. Can't wait to get it out again -- doubt I'll ever choose a road ride over a trail ride if the trails are clean, but I could see actually myself enjoying an (gulp) all day trip on this bike!

In short, I'd say this bike is ideal for someone like me who won't get too hung up on the component spec but wants a versatile, fun bike without breaking the bank. Thanks for all the previous info and just wanted to pay it forward in case anybody's in a similar spot as I am. One thing I will point out is that the sizing feels like it runs a little big, but I think I can make up the difference with a different stem, seat placement, etc.

Get one!

Ryanoceros


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## mikefarb

Need help finding raised stem.

Last year i bought a 56cm in red and find the position a little too aggressive. I am having trouble finding any raised stems to adapt the reach to a more comfortable position. Any help would be appreciated. [email protected]

Thanks,

Mike


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