# the value of a good seatpost clamp



## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Today I learned why it's well worth to pay $20-30 for a seatpost clamp from Thomson or Salsa in which the bolt screws into a steel barrel-nut and not aluminum... especially on my touring bike.

Hopefully this is the first and only time that I am ever forced to ride for fifteen miles standing up. Trying to unclip while standing is a challenge in of itself.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

headloss said:


> Hopefully this is the first and only time that I am ever forced to ride for fifteen miles standing up. Trying to unclip while standing is a challenge in of itself.



What is the challenge you're having? 

If you are touring then maybe you need a different pedal like perhaps the Speedplay Frogs? Those are easy to unclip sitting or standing, though they are full float which may bother some people. But the beauty of the Speedplay Frog is you can wear a touring bike/walking shoe and not have to worry about walking on a lump or getting the cleat dirty, and you can grease them at home by purchasing a special grease gun and then simply insert the nozzle and force the grease in the front slowly and watch it ooze out the back of the pedal till it runs clean, wipe the excess grease off and your good for another 3,000 miles. No need to take the pedal apart and attempt to clean and relube and reinstall the bearings...assuming the pedal will even let you do that! Those Frogs should last a long time of you keep the grease clean.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

I was mostly just venting about the stripped clamp... but since you asked,
I have the large platform Shimano A530s, so it's probably more of a problem with technique than one of equipment. I was struggling to unclip with my weight on the pedal at the 6 o'clock position since I'm used to doing it while sitting down. I found unclipping at the 12 o'clock position entirely too awkward. Perhaps I should have been balancing my weight at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions? Anyways, it was just awkward since I've never unclipped while standing before today when I had to do so at least a dozen times trying to negotiate traffic at stop lights. In the end, I found unclipping at the 6 o'clock position the most doable but still struggled with it.

I love the idea of grease in a zerc fitting, or something similar. Thanks for the suggestion!


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

headloss said:


> Perhaps I should have been balancing my weight at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions?


Bad idea, if you mean unclipping one foot at either the 3 or 9 o'clock position while standing and coasting. As soon as you do that, the clipped-in foot will rotate down forcefully to the 6 o'clock position. If this rotation comes unexpectedly, you might lose some control.

As to unclipping at 6 o'clock while standing and coasting: I applaud your courage, but there's no control over the bike as soon as you unclip. It basically amounts to a jumping-off the bike and hoping for the best.

Bottom line: learn to unclip the 12 o'clock foot while standing and coasting. Many riders find this to be a relaxing and safe way to roll up to an anticipated stop. You might find it a bit less awkward if you lean forward over the bars as you unclip.

Last thought: for brief periods, you can sit on the top tube while pedaling and / or unclipping. Don't cram the top tube into your crotch, though. Rotate your body left or right a bit and put your left or right hamstring muscle on the top tube. It approximates seated riding and would have come in handy during your predicament.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

wim said:


> Bottom line: learn to unclip the 12 o'clock foot while standing and coasting. Many riders find this to be a relaxing and safe way to roll up to an anticipated stop. You might find it a bit less awkward if you lean forward over the bars as you unclip.


Exactly right. That is THE way to do it, IME. complete control, never leaning the wrong way. You can sit again after unclipping if you find you have more time than anticipated.

BTW, if you want to try even more fun with broken seatclamps, ride a FG. The bolt on my FG commuter sheared off on the way to work once. I stopped safely, removed the seatpost from the frame and rode the rest of the way standing. Aside from the fatigue induced by standing and not coasting the whole way, clipping and unclipping while standing and pedaling was very interesting. 

Clipping out while standing and coasting is a piece of cake.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Another reason I love the Speedplay Frogs, they clip in and out so easily and natural that after 40 years of riding with toe straps old school pedals, I simply watched a You Tube video and went and rode the bike without ever falling, I got my first set in 07 and haven't fallen yet. Like an idiot I first installed them on a old MTB and took it in the back of my truck to a grassy area thinking I was going to fall, what a waste of time that was because I had to go home remove them and put them on the new bike and put the old pedals back on the MTB.


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## rmsmith (Feb 15, 2007)

headloss said:


> Today I learned why it's well worth to pay $20-30 for a seatpost clamp from Thomson or Salsa in which the bolt screws into a steel barrel-nut and not aluminum... especially on my touring bike.


+1 Nothing like a good seat-post clamp, but don't forget to lubricate the threads with an Anti-Seize compound.


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