# Front derailleur cable tension?



## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Recently, I "inherited" a Campagnolo 9spd Daytona drivetrain from a friend...successfully rebuilt the right-hand shifter (g springs and carrier) and dialed in the rear shifting on the first try and everything!

I'm having trouble with the front, though -- there is plenty of "trim" available, but I have to give the lever two full sweeps to shift from small to large chainring, and the second sweep requires some strong finger action. The stop screws are adjusted correctly -- the chain never jumps off either chainring. Could the extra effort to change rings mean that I have the cable tension a bit too high? 

I'm not sure how Ergopower is supposed to work up front...but I suspect that one sweep of the big lever should be enough to go from ring to ring. Your thoughts?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

It sounds to me like the cable is too loose, and the first sweep is mostly wasted taking up the excess slack. When the shifter is fully released (thumb button pushed repeatedly), is there slack in the cable? Even if there's not visible slack, does the derailleur fail to move immediately when the lever begins its travel? If so, you need to fix it so the derailleur begins moving as soon as you move the lever. You may also need to adjust the high limit screw a little. The chain isn't falling off, but you may be bumping up against that stop a little early, requiring that extra hard push to complete the shift.

Campy's action with the multiple trim positions takes a little getting used to after Shimano. I find that it's sometimes easier (and probably quicker) to get precise trim by using two short sweeps for the upshift rather than one long one, but it shouldn't take you two full long pushes.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Thanks...I hadn't considered that the cable might be too slack. There was no obvious sag, but that doesn't mean it isn't tight enough. I will try that (and adjusting the outer limit screw).

I'm not moving from Shimano to Ergopower...for me, I'm finally entering the 21st century with something other than friction downtube shifters! So, this whole thing is a tremendous learning curve.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

It sounds like the cable tension is not tight enough. Put the chain in the small ring and tighten the cable adjusting screw until it's nice and tight. You can feel the slop in the cable with your hand. Test ride and adjust.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

Older double FDs only require 3 clicks to cover the full range of travel. Triple FDs require 7. With the older FDs there really aren't mutiple trim positions. You've got the big ring position, a middle position and the little ring position. 2007 and newer double FDs require 4 clicks to cover the full range of travel.

One full sweep of the left finger lever can execute 5 clicks, if not restricted by the FD limit screws. That's what it takes to shift from the little ring to the middle ring on a triple.

Any more clicks means you have too much slack in the cable. The very first click of the finger lever, from the little ring position should cause the FD cage to move signifcantly to the right.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Shifting Campy FDs, especially some of the mid and lower end models requires a decent amount of cable pull. I believe (not absolutely sure) that the geometry of the Daytona and lower FDs different, requiring more cable movement than Record or Chorus. This is worsened if there's excess cable slack or when starting from the innermost (against limit) position. 

It's assumed that as you're riding and shifting that you wouldn't be shifting the front until you reach the middle of the cassette and have trimmed the FD outboard a bit. (which would ave also taken up cable slack)

From that position it usually makes the shift on one full sweep of the lever. One way to get a more positive shift is to _prime_ it with a short sweep moving it in a bit, then do the full sweep for the shift. This is done very quickly and makes for a positive shift with no power loss.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*???*

I never owned a Daytona/Athena FD, but I can't imagine the geometry being so different that it requires more than the 5 clicks that the left finger lever can execute. It should not require more than one sweep of the finger lever to cover the full range of travel, except for a triple FD. 

Even the newer QS FDs only require 4 clicks (instead of 3). I've never needed to apply a click or two to prime a shifter.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Thanks, everyone. I'll play with it and see what works.

For the record, this is actually a Veloce FD -- not sure of what year, but I suspect early 2000s.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

C-40 said:


> I never owned a Daytona/Athena FD, but I can't imagine the geometry being so different that it requires more than the 5 clicks that the left finger lever can execute. It should not require more than one sweep of the finger lever to cover the full range of travel, except for a triple FD.
> 
> Even the newer QS FDs only require 4 clicks (instead of 3). I've never needed to apply a click or two to prime a shifter.


You're right, but sometimes theory doesn't hold up in practice. *My goal was to help the OP find a solution that fit his needs.* First by getting the FD working to par, then if needed, adjusting to a different technique.

When I ran Campy's East Coast Service Center we received many complaints of FD shifting difficulty, describing problems similar to the OP's, though the 2 full sweeps he describes probably indicates too much cable slack.

There were 2 issues, the first being that even though 1 full sweep could effect the shift, many riders, especially those with smaller hands had trouble doing a full sweep, and would come up short, especially those who tended not to trim their FDs.

The second is exactly what the OP speaks of. As you shift the lever, the beginning of the process is an unloaded movement to take up cable slack, if any, and the distance to engage the inner cage face to the chain, with no actual work being done until the near end of the sweep as the actual shift is executed. For many this means that the greatest effort occurs in their weakest, most awkward hand position, and they'd struggle to complete the shift.

By dividing the shift into two short sweeps, one to bring the cage to the true ready-to-shift-position, (I called it priming for lack of a better name) and the second to make the shift, the greater shift effort would be at the beginning of the 2nd sweep where the rider has the most finger leverage and strength.

Is it necessary to split the shift into two sweeps? Absolutely not, but for some people it helps make for easier crisper shifting.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*FD adjsutments*



JCavilia said:


> It sounds to me like the cable is too loose, and the first sweep is mostly wasted taking up the excess slack.


Probably right. Other things to check:

- FD cage should just clear the big ring when shifting. This gives the maximum control of the chain with the least cage travel

- FD cage might need to be rotated a bit, most likely the rear of the cage closer to the frame.

EDIT: memo to self - read post title before hitting "submit"


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

Try making sure you've got the low limit screw set so that the FD just doesn't rub in the lowest gear, then start with the cable tension a bit too tight, and back it off with the barrel adjuster until the FD just reaches the stop (or you don't get rub, again). That will minimize the required lever sweep. 

The FD cable tension is trickier to get right with Shimano shifters, if you want to be able to effectively use both trim positions. Campy is pretty simple in comparison.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Update...

I gave the barrel adjuster a couple full turns to tension the FD cable a bit, and now everything works like a charm. Thanks everyone, for your input!

@FBinNY -- your "priming" technique really helps, too. As I get used to the operation of these Ergopower shifters, this technique comes in handy -- it may not be necessary for everyone and every setup, but it works for me. Thanks.


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## MerckxMad (Jan 22, 2004)

FBinNY said:


> For many this means that the greatest effort occurs in their weakest, most awkward hand position, and they'd struggle to complete the shift.
> 
> By dividing the shift into two short sweeps, one to bring the cage to the true ready-to-shift-position, (I called it priming for lack of a better name) and the second to make the shift, the greater shift effort would be at the beginning of the 2nd sweep where the rider has the most finger leverage and strength.
> 
> Is it necessary to split the shift into two sweeps? Absolutely not, but for some people it helps make for easier crisper shifting.


I run older Veloce on one of my rigs and with small hands, I can attest to this problem and suggested remedy. 2 short throws of the lever, one to "prime" and one to shift is much easier than trying to complete the shift in one awkward throw per the Campy manual. Sometimes, you need to leave the sliderule at home and go with what works.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*That was it..*



SilverStar said:


> Update...
> 
> I gave the barrel adjuster a couple full turns to tension the FD cable a bit, and now everything works like a charm. Thanks everyone, for your input!
> 
> @FBinNY -- your "priming" technique really helps, too. As I get used to the operation of these Ergopower shifters, this technique comes in handy -- it may not be necessary for everyone and every setup, but it works for me. Thanks.



Whenever I install new derailleur cables I have to make a couple of adjustments while on a ride. Things usually work different when under load, then when working on your bike in the garage. I also never gave it much thought, but it takes 3 clicks to get my der from the small to big ring.


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