# Cheap Fixed Gear conversion- contest



## Dave Hickey

*Fixed Gear conversion- contest*

Let's have a contest to see the best looking fixed gear/single speed conversion. Post pics and we'll all decide in 2 weeks who is the winner. I'll donate something out of my spare parts bin for the winnner..

Rules:

1. Bike has to be a road/mtn bike conversion- not a prebuilt fixie
2. Total price will effect the total score. The lower the price, the higher the score. There will be some lattitude if you use spare parts out of your existing inventory but points might be deducted if your spare parts include a mint Campy Pista group

The scoring will be as follows( thanks Handsomerob).

Cost
<100 = 2 points
100-200 = 1 point
200+ = 0 points

Class/Vintage/Style for the Frame
well built frame = 2 points
med = 1 point
low = 0 points

Overall Aesthetics and/or Function
excellent = 3 points
nice = 2 points
average = 1 point
ok = 0 points

Customizing/Uniqueness/Creativity
one of a kind = 3 points
pretty noticeable in a crowd = 2 points
seen before but still cool = 1 point
lost in a crowd = 0 points



Start posting pictures folks....Let's see them cheap rides.....


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## DIRT BOY

Wow, $100 is cheap. I "spent" $155 on my SS converson, but the value is close to $300 from parts lying around or freebies!
Too bad it won't qualify!


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## Dave Hickey

We changed the rules. Please see above. All conversions will be considered but the lower the cost, the higher the points in that catagory


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## Dave Hickey

Feel free to nominate someone from another RBR member.

I'll nominate Funknuggets dumpster rescued fixed..

From this thread

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=77121

"I got Hickey's goofy ass covered as far as thriftiness. However, Its more just an odd amalgam of leftover parts that made their way onto the table, found a home on a $15 thrift store bike, there was some kind of lightning strike and wha-lah... hide your eyes because the sucker is hideous, but is built for what I need it to... commuting the 20mi one way to work... and handling the hardpack pea gravel mut that we have. Gregg, please note the wise use of leftover RBR stickers..... 

Nonetheless, just checking in. Running 42x16... check out that fancy front chainring that I stole from my kid's bmx bike as he has moved down to a 40 for racing. Its drilled out and everything. Total price tag... $87. (mostly on those beast vittoris zaffiro tires).

Its built for a nuclear war, and looks like it."


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## funknuggets

this is hilarious... thats a '83 Fuji Del Ray with a home spun spraypaint and clearcoat instead of the "starship grey" it was originally. Please note my particular detail with silver spraypaint on the fork crown, just dont stand and look too close. 

The thrift store cashier thought I was out of my mind for paying the $15 bucks for the sucker as the tires were dry rotted, the handlebar tape and the seat was harked, but the frame was mint. Strangely enough, it had no rust. The wheels that came on it were these funky gloss black flat-rimmed Wolbers... that actually looked quite cool, but were the type that looked like they would come out of true by just putting air in the tires. 

Anyway, thanks for the vote. Hickey. Hey... If I win, can I pick the part?


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## Reynolds531

*Rule clarification request*



Dave Hickey said:


> Let's have a contest to see the best looking cheap fixed gear/single speed conversion. Post pics and we'll all decide in 2 weeks who is the winner. I'll donate something out of my spare parts bin for the winnner..
> 
> Rules:
> 
> 1. Bike has to be a road/mtn bike conversion- not a prebuilt fixie
> 2. Total price can't exceed $100- There will be some lattitude if you use spare parts out of your existing inventory but total price for the conversion can't exceed $100..
> 3. Consideration will be given for lowest cost conversion
> 
> Start posting pictures folks....Let's see them cheap rides.....


Does it count if you told your wife it only cost $100?


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## Dave Hickey

Reynolds531 said:


> Does it count if you told your wife it only cost $100?



Sure  Sneak it by the judges.....I'm probably going to relax the rules. judging will be based on creativity and cost effectiveness ie: cheap


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## handsomerob

Here is a good scoring system.....similar to golf. Best possible score would be a 10 and worst a 0


Cost
<100 = 2 points
100-200 = 1 point
200+ = 0 points

Class/Vintage/Style for the Frame
well built frame = 2 points
med = 1 point
low = 0 points

Overall Aesthetics and/or Function
excellent = 3 points
nice = 2 points
average = 1 point
ok = 0 points

Customizing/Uniqueness/Creativity
one of a kind = 3 points
pretty noticeable in a crowd = 2 points
seen before but still cool = 1 point
lost in a crowd = 0 points


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## Dave Hickey

Perfect....We will use this system...............Thanks much. 

I've modified the original post in this thread to show this scoring system


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## funknuggets

wait, Im confused... who does the scoring?

Dave?


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## Reynolds531

*Old Gitane Tour de France Convertible*

My Single speed entry is an old Gitane Tour de France frame (Reynolds 531 steel, of course). I stripped the rattle can black paint and had it powder coated, then applied gold leaf around the lugs. I built up 36 spoke 4 cross wheels from Sunshine hubs and Mavic MA3 rims. The respaced rear hub has a ACS Claw 20 tooth freewheel. 

Cruiser Version:

I chose the Nitto Promendade handlebars so that I would look casual when riding at 13 mph with my wife. I found that I liked them alot. They gave great leverage when climbing, and I could grip them near the stem for a decent areo tuck. The crank is a 48 tooth Sugino Impel. Chrome fenders keep mud off my back.

The frame, fork, headset and bottom bracket were about $70 including shipping. Powder coat was $80, Brooks seat was about $50, about $70 in the wheels and $30 in the crankset, $30 for fenders, $12 for seatpost, $20 for the freewheel everything else from parts bin--I guess I'm well over $200. The seat pack is an old Coach purse.

15 minute Conversion from Cruiser to Racer:

I remove the stem and handlebars and put on drop bars. Take off the fenders, put on the 52 tooth Shimano 600 Arabesque crankset and it's a nice fast SS. The cost for the Racer is only $40. $30 for the Nitto drop Bars, $10 for the red cotton tape. I had the old Crankset. 

It's amazing how much the charactor of the bike changes when the drop bars are put on. The cruiser has very light, almost squirrely handling. The drop bars bring out the old racing heritage.


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## Dave Hickey

That bike is too cool..A perfect gentleman's cruiser...The coach purse is a great idea for a saddle bag


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## DIRT BOY

*OK, here is my enty....*

I probaly won't win as it's a MTB Road Crusier and around $250 but what the hell...

Frame: Sette Reken 17" Aluminum- $40
Fork: Generic Cromoly - $21
HS: FSA - Parts bin
Bars: Generic aluminum risers - $5
Stem: FSA XC170 - Parts bin
Cranks: FSA GamaMegaExo with FSA 48T ring $105
Chain: KMC SS - $3
Rear Cog: Generic 14T - $6
Brakes: Tekro Mechs - take off from an older bike
Wheels: Weimann Disc - take off from an older bike
Tires: Schwalbe Super Moto 2.35 with tubes $46
Saddle: WTB Speed comp - parts bin
Post: FSA SL-250 - - take off from an older bike
Rennen CT: $22
Cables: generic - parts bin

What I acutally spent is listed.

The with these tires really moves and it can handle any Urban stuff, beach riding or fire roads easily!

Orginal built as a Commuter/Baby hauler but now relgated to fast urban/street riding/racing.










Next summer I will have a Road SS/Fixed bike. Either built from scratch or a Van Dessel Country Bob.


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## imetis

I got into my first fixed pretty cheap. 
It started with a 1983 Trek 520 that I found at a garage sale for $20. 
I swapped the seat with one from an old MTB I had -- no cost.
Pedals - Free from a friend.
Crankset is the 45T from the stock touring setup and short-stack bolts - $5 for bolts
I built the wheel (first time!) with a nashbar flip-flop hub ($40), Wolber Alpine rim ($15), 14g spokes( $15), and a dura-ace 16t cog ($18)

Total cost: $113

























It's been a very fun bike, lots of miles on it. I actually rode it geared for a year before converting it and buying a new road bike, so I got more than my $20 out of that buy! I certainly could have built the wheel cheaper, but at close to 200 lbs, and knowing I was going to beat this bike up, I wanted something that would last. It's held true so far!


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## danl1

Conversion cost: $20 and an afternoon of shop fun. $18 for a dura-ace cog, $2 for a half link to make it fit. Everything else from stock donor bike. Respaced the hub and redished the wheel. 

Donor bike was historical leftover that somehow never managed to get sold off in the progression of bikes since she was my main ride. Add whatever you'd pay me for it (you pay the shipping) to the cost. 

Pedigree: 90ish Can-o-ale road race frame. Remaining running gear low-end Suntour. Currently geared at 42x16. Maillard hubs. Alex rims. ITM bar, other bits mostly unknown.

Note: As pictured, wearing Speedplay frogs from the parts bin. Donor bike clip-and-straps used in initial setup and still worn for special occasions.

Slack on style points, this is a value contender. Still, there's something about basic black...

View attachment 69513


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## Dave Hickey

Very cool and the beer bottle bike stand is worth at least an extra point


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## filtersweep

Bike #1 (actually my second conversion, but that is another story):

Schwinn Prologue and a bunch of spare parts. Easily under $100--- w/ rear Nashbar fixed/fixed hub.


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## filtersweep

Bike #2-- with Ben's Nitto knock-off bullhorns--- and a bunch of recycled stuff. Sorry--- no brakes on this setup.


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## racerx

*Dave, you evil man...*

On my way into work today I spied a few junkers in someone's front yard...

Free BIkes!

Nothing special, road wise

A General 10 speed, nice shape

A Huffy Aerowind, Huffy's attempt to enter the aero market by smashing the down tube. Cool attempt, but pressed bb and lots and lots of rust and bad paint. Pass.


Went out at lunch and laid out my cash for my entry. Picked up the General for $1. I guess I'm in. Have to see what I can do to come up with a fixie... More to come.


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## Dave Hickey

racerx said:


> On my way into work today I spied a few junkers in someone's front yard...
> 
> Free BIkes!
> 
> Nothing special, road wise
> 
> A General 10 speed, nice shape
> 
> A Huffy Aerowind, Huffy's attempt to enter the aero market by smashing the down tube. Cool attempt, but pressed bb and lots and lots of rust and bad paint. Pass.
> 
> 
> Went out at lunch and laid out my cash for my entry. Picked up the General for $1. I guess I'm in. Have to see what I can do to come up with a fixie... More to come.


LOL, I can't wait to see it. You have a talent for building sweet bikes....Don't you have a funny bike fixed?


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## racerx

*Funny Fixed*

Yep, I have a couple of fixed funny bikes. However, a paint job puts me well above $100 on my least expensive builds, so it will be the General. Don't think it's fair to include a past build anyway, and besides, I now have to justify that buck I laid out today...:thumbsup:


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## handsomerob

Here is the frameset I will be using.... I am hoping to get it done this week....


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## Chris H

Ok, I'll play...

This is my old REI Novarra MTB frame that I got free, and it was old when I got it.

North Road bars were laying around, I decided to use them instead of buying bullhorns.

I did however, put some fresh Cinelli ribbon on there. 
$11.00

I did buy a stem adapter because it's impossible to find a reasonable 1 1/8 quill stem that doesn't look like it was welded in a High School shop class
$9.00

Had to buy the stem to go with it. Found a used one that works great at a LBS used parts bin.
$20.00

Needed a wheel to go along with this, or else it wouldn't be a very good fixed gear. Found a good deal on a Surly flip/flop hub laced to a Mavic Open rim.
$82.00

Stole the front wheel off my wifes old Trek hybrid that she doesn't ride anymore. Don' t tell her though!

16t track cog.
$19.00

Half link to get the chain to fit well.
$1.50

I also put a brake on the bike. 
Caliper Brake $25.00
TT Lever for brake $11.50 (bought a pair with another guy making a fixie as well so we split the cost).

Fenders, tires, seat, saddlebag, etc... were all laying around the barn.

To make sure I didn't change my mind, I hit the rear dérailleur hanger with the dremel and a file and turned it into a pretty nifty bottle opener.
Free

So for just about $175.00 I finished my conversion. The most expensive part was the wheel. It was all money well spent in my opinion. This thing is fun to ride.

At some point I'll probably paint it. Before that I'll probably put track ends on it first. We'll see... hate to give up that bottle opener!


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## foz

Chris, was that old frame originally built for 26" wheels? it looks like it, judging by the canti bosses, and you said it was an old MTB frame... the wheels you've used are 700C, right? how does it ride like that? does it handle pretty much the same as when it had 26" wheels in? and did you have much trouble setting up the chainring-sprocket-chain length to get the right tension with the vertical dropout? I've got an old MTB frame at home that I'm thinking of converting to fixed when I can get round to it, but don't really want to go to the expense of changing the dropouts to track ends and getting it painted just yet. 

thanks, foz


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## Chris H

foz said:


> Chris, was that old frame originally built for 26" wheels? it looks like it, judging by the canti bosses, and you said it was an old MTB frame... the wheels you've used are 700C, right? how does it ride like that? does it handle pretty much the same as when it had 26" wheels in? and did you have much trouble setting up the chainring-sprocket-chain length to get the right tension with the vertical dropout? I've got an old MTB frame at home that I'm thinking of converting to fixed when I can get round to it, but don't really want to go to the expense of changing the dropouts to track ends and getting it painted just yet.
> 
> thanks, foz


Foz,

It was built for 26" wheels, but the 700c wheels fit just fine. As you can see from the pics I can even fit fenders on there with 700x28 wheels. I had to get a long reach brake, but there's plenty of room. With the fenders, I might be able to squeeze in some 700x35 wheels... but I haven't tried it. My only limiting factor would probably be the brake itself. It actually handles better with the 700c wheels than it did with the 26" wheels.

That relaxed geometry of the mountain bike frame really feels great as a fixed gear. I've ridden track frames, converted road bike frames, and two mtn bike conversions. I really like the feel of the mtn bike. It makes a great city bike, and is really comfortable for commuting and just upright enough to keep your track of your surroundings. This would be with either moustache bars or the bullhorns. Don't know how it would feel with drop bars though. Done trips up to 40 miles and feels good.

With the chain tension, I had played with the half link and it fit pretty well. I'm a bit limited with my cog size though. 42x17 was a bit snug, but 42x16 fits great. I just pulled off the other two rings on the front and moved the big ring inboard with some 3mm spacers.

If you have questions, or want more detailed pics feel free to PM me. It's actually a pretty easy conversion if you have the time to mess with it.


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## foz

Chris, If I ever get round to converting this old frame I've got (the main problem is that it's in the UK and I'm now in Spain), I'd probably build up a 26" rear wheel for fixed/free and put cantis on front and rear so that I can use it for a bit of fixed riding on the road in winter with some thinnish slicks on, or put some knobblies on there for use as a SS or fixed MTB in summer, something to mess around on when I don't feel too much like hard road training... The only problem with the frame is that it has vertical dropouts. I was reading about how to solve this with the right sprocket/ring combinations, and might give it a go. if I can't get it to work at all, at least I'll be able to leave it SS with a tensioner on there. I'm not sure where I can get a half-link from here in Spain or in the UK either.

Right now, I'm waiting to see if anyone leaves an old screw-on rear hub at my local LBS so that I can stick a track sprocket on there and convert a friend's old road bike to fixed for this winter. If I can't get a wheel or hub through my LBS, I can get a full wheel with screw on hub of dubious quality from my local Decathlon store for about 25euros. For that price if I trash either the wheel or the hub thread then I won't be too upset!

cheers, foz


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## warmseth

$170 total build
schwinn le tour frame
sugino seat post wtb mountain bike saddle
shimano 600 700mm cranks/bb
shimano rat traps
rashed cinelli road drops
schwinn headset
no name hubs wheel build
15/42 gearing
more pics


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## tjanson

I'll show y'all a cheap build:
Dumpster frame/ crank, 27" - think it might be a Fuji - no stickers-
JB-welded freewheel - dissembled, replaced grease with JB, assembled, JB'd "freewheel" onto hub, removed all cog except for 17t, which was screwed on and welded. - $0
Seatpost - was goofy size, had to order from bike shop - $20
Saddle - parts bin at shop - $5
Bar tape - $9
Everything else I had lying around from other dumpster bikes...
*Total: $34*
JB fixed freewheel:


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## Dave Hickey

How's the freewheel holding up? How did you JB weld the freewheel to the hub?


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## tjanson

It's holding up great, no signs of failure after riding daily since the beginning of September. I do skids and all too.
I JB'd the freewheel to the hub just by smearing it over the threads and screwing it on.
Two things I did that I think have helped its reliability:
1. Cleaned the parts meticulously - cleaned everything with simple green and cleaned the bonding surfaces with acetone before applying the JB.
2. Made sure the pawls on the freewheel were JB'd sticking out, and placed some BBs in the space to keep them from retracting
But I do wonder if it's gonna let loose some day...Front brake is the insurance.


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## crumjack

This is my first go at fixed. Its a Nishiki steel frame 10 speed from 1980 that my wife picked up at a garage sale for $5. When I got it, it was covered in stickers including a Shimano sticker and a couple of Campy stickers. I left the Campy stickers!

I put on new tires, bars, brake hoods, and brake pads along with new cables, housing, and bar tape. I splurged on the white Rolls saddle. Everything else I reused from the bike. I redished the rear wheel and put on a Dura Ace cog using what the BikeForums guys call "rotafixing." The front chain ring is a 40. I may cut the bars into bullhorns at some point. It aint as pretty as some but its mine!:thumbsup: 

Frame 5
Saddle 40
Hoods 8
Bar 13
Tape 9
Cables 15
Tires 27
Brake Pads 10
Rim Tape 5
Cog 18
Chain Ring Bolts 10

Total $160


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## Dave Hickey

Very nice build. I really like the white tape, saddle and brake hoods


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## ukiahb

*an Austro Damlier and a Bianchi...*

the AD I bought at a yard sale for $75 and EBay'd its Campy Rally deraileur for $50, so net cost was $25. It has many scratches, but is beautifully built from DB Reynolds 531. I MIG welded a $15 BMX freewheel (so it would no longer freewheel) and converted the crank w/ BMW chainring bolts for about $7. The seat, post, stem and bars all came from my junk pile....value maybe $30 or so???? so total is back up to about $75...

Bought the Bianchi from a friend for about $100 IIRC (too much but it is like new, VERY low miles). The rear wheel is also from my junk pile (say $25 value??), I MIG welded the Shimano freehub and bought a BMX cog and some spacers for about $20, so total on it is about $150...


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## laffeaux

Hmmm... the price ranges put mine out.

My commuter started off as a $100 bike off of Craigslist. I replaced the stem (had to buy one), and the bars (had those in the parts bin), and rode it for several months. After breaking several spokes, and finding that the nipples were seized, I opted for a new wheelset (thus jacking up the price). The front wheel was a cheap pre-built wheel from REI. The rear flip/flop Suzue hub w/ Mavic rim cost a bit more. Otherwise it's a cheap bike that's ridden to work 4-5 days a week year round.

<img src="https://www.eandsweb.com/me/pics/bikes/104_0456.JPG" height="384" width="512">


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## kevink

*1974 Raleigh Pro*

OK, no points earned for money spent, but maybe I can earn points in the other categories. Here is my 1974 Raleigh Pro conversion, using a nice original 51cm frame, Ofmega 28h track hubs laced to Mavic Open SUP rims, Campagnolo Record crankset (Strada that was re-machined to Pista specs, including counter-sunk holes), Cinelli stem, Ambrosio Pista bars, King headset, Record front brake and Brooks Swift Ti saddle.


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## handsomerob

handsomerob said:


> Here is the frameset I will be using.... I am hoping to get it done this week....


I couldn't find a cheap wheelset or a BB to fit my Sachs crankset, so I made it into a shifty bike with parts I already had (on my brother in laws Klein that he doesn't ride).... yeah, I know I suck.... oh well.


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## benwitt11

Alright, I'll throw my new poject in the hat. 

Fuji League complete bike, (unknown vintage,) $6.79 (six pack of Sierra Nevada.)
Dimension cartridge bearing track hub, $30, (I reused the old spokes and rim, had som nips.)
Cog and lockring, $10 and some grips I had
Chain, free
Brooks Saddle, from private stash
Surly Tuggnut, from private stash
Brake levers, taken off privious commuter
Gel bar tape $10
Used tires, bb, free

Total out of pocket cost, $56.79


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## Anonymous

DAMN! Kev, that frame gives me wood. Nice. I'll try to find a pic of my POS. I cost $135 on Ebay. I've had to put another $105 into it, after being hit by a car and my rear wheel, and hub got FUBAR.


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## cbass94

Here's mine, and old Bottecchia. The first pic is in "Summer Mode" and the second pic is "Winter mode"

Summer Mode cost (initially built like this): Roughly $180










Winter Mode cost (broke the Race face crank on the Summer mode so I had to spend $55 for a new one :-( and also bought the cyclocross tires and fenders. Cost = $275


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## il sogno

Is the contest still going Dave? I'm gonna convert my early 80's lugged steel framed Pogliaghi to a fixie. So hold on there and give me a little time. 

Pic of the Pog pre-conversion.....


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## andreq

Oh what a cool Idea. I have one I'm pretty happy with. Peugeot Avoriaz Tig welded early 80's machine. Cost: Bike $20 out of the tuesday paper free classifieds. Removed all the crap parts added a dura ace track cog $45. Found a nice set of 165mm 600cranks in the back of my local store $30. The seat is the crap thing that came on my geared roadie so it was free. Vittoria phoenix white wall tyre to match the one that came on it $20. Bottle of metal magic pollish to give everything a nice shine $5.

TOTAL: $120 AUD = approx $90 US at the current exchange rate.


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## logansites

Right now Im working on a 1980 Raleigh Super Grand Prix. My dad bought it for $200 back in 92(?) and rode it with me when I was a kid (im 23). I just rescued it from the basement at his house and started taking it apart last night to clean up and convert to a fixie (maybe with a freewheel, havent decided). I dont have any spare parts or even anything to clean it up with so Ill probably rack up a bill by the time im done. If I can find a camera Ill put some pic up. 

This will be the first bike ive had since I was a kid on a schwinn mnt bike.

Any suggestions would be great but Ill keep scanning these forums too.

Logan


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## il sogno

I used my old lugged steel framed Pogliaghi from the early 80's. I've had Campy SR 165 cranks on it from the beginning so I was set in that respect. My husband's old lugged steel bike has high flange Nuovo Record Hubs (ca. 1973). I talked him into trading wheels - my Super Record hubbed wheels for his high flange NR wheels. 

Bought a Formula hub, some DT spokes, a freewheel, cog, chain, etc. from the LBS and had them build up the wheel. I had the LBS disassemble my husband's rear wheel (gave him back his Nuovo Record high flange hub  ). I had them use my husband's old rear wheel tubular rim for build up the new fixed/ss rear wheel. Hubby's old high flanged hubbed front wheel is on this bike. 

Total out the door $212.


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## ADKBiker

Here is my garbage find, a Schwinn Traveler! (Details below)










































You guys and girls won't believe where I found this bike. This bike was out by the curb resting up next two garbage cans infront of someones house. The bike didn't even have the right size rear wheel. It was an old rusted 26 in steel wheel. This poor bike had seen better days. The paint was not in the greatest shape. I compound the paint and hand polished it. It really didn't have much rust on the inside of the frame. Only lite surface rust in the seat tube, up by the seat post, and a little in the head tube and fork tube. I removed the little bit of rust it had (all surface rust) and spray JP Weigle frame saver. It looks great in there now. Gotta love steel!

Rear Fomula flip flop Hub laced to Weinnman 27in rim: $99.95
Shimano BMX Freewheel 16 tooth, 3/32: $17.95
Single stack chainring bolt set (5): $6.95
A pair of Nashbar Prima 2 Plus Kevlar tires with black sidewalls: $16.98
A pair of Nashbar Presta Tubes: $.8.42
Nashbar Deluxe Handlebar tape: $5.09
Yellow enamel paint (lines around the lugs): $1.40
A pair of red dice ($.50 each): $1.00

The rest of the parts are all the original parts of the bike. The Vetta seat, Suntour Pedals, Cannondale Brake lever, are parts that I had laying around in my garage.

I am using a 40t front and 16t rear. This wheel is from Sheldenbrown/Harris bikes. Those guy are awesome! They know their stuff and they truely help you out! Thanks Harris bikes!


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## refund!?

I want to play, but my computer skills are limited, I have a digital camera, so how do I add photos to a response to this thread?


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## il sogno

refund!? said:


> I want to play, but my computer skills are limited, I have a digital camera, so how do I add photos to a response to this thread?


Post in the Advanced Mode either by clicking on the "Quote" button at the bottom right of the person's post you want to quote or use the Quick post feature but click on the "go advanced" link. 

Once in the Advanced mode post your text in the message box then scroll down. In the Additional Options area there is a button to Upload Photos. Click on that button. A separate dialog box opens up and from there you can upload photos either from your computer or a website. 

Good luck.


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## ADKBiker

kevink said:


> OK, no points earned for money spent, but maybe I can earn points in the other categories. Here is my 1974 Raleigh Pro conversion, using a nice original 51cm frame, Ofmega 28h track hubs laced to Mavic Open SUP rims, Campagnolo Record crankset (Strada that was re-machined to Pista specs, including counter-sunk holes), Cinelli stem, Ambrosio Pista bars, King headset, Record front brake and Brooks Swift Ti saddle.



Beautiful bike Kevink. A classic!


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## refund!?

il sogno said:


> Post in the Advanced Mode either by clicking on the "Quote" button at the bottom right of the person's post you want to quote or use the Quick post feature but click on the "go advanced" link.
> 
> Once in the Advanced mode post your text in the message box then scroll down. In the Additional Options area there is a button to Upload Photos. Click on that button. A separate dialog box opens up and from there you can upload photos either from your computer or a website.
> 
> Good luck.



I tried, but when I hit the UPLOAD button on the UPLOAD PHOTOS page all I got was a screen that said, "Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage"?


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## il sogno

refund!? said:


> I tried, but when I hit the UPLOAD button on the UPLOAD PHOTOS page all I got was a screen that said, "Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage"?


Uh-oh. Can't help you. Maybe someone in the Lounge will know what to do.


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## Dave Hickey

refund!? said:


> I tried, but when I hit the UPLOAD button on the UPLOAD PHOTOS page all I got was a screen that said, "Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage"?


youe pictures are probably too big. Try resizing them around 700 x 700 pixels


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## refund!?

*$22*

Last fall I decided to change my track bike* that had been hanging from the ceiling for 20 years into a singlespeed (I'm probably already disqualified because it's not a fixed gear). I removed the Dura Ace 10-Pitch track group, Cinelli track bar/stem w/Benotto tape, Columbus seatpost/Unicanitor Saddle, & sew-up wheelsets; and built it back up with the following stuff that was stored here & there around the work shop:

-Cook Brothers crankset w/171 mm crank arms & Vuelta 38 T chainring
-Shimano UN 54 bottom bracket w/115 mm spindle
-MKS RX-1 pedals w/Christophe toe cips & straps
-Edco Competition Headset
-Nitto Technomic stem & Noodle Bars w/Off-The-Front tape
-American Classic seatpost & Flite saddle
-IRD Pro Interceptor Top Mount Brake Lever, Shimano 105 brake, NOKON housing
-Road wheelset w/American Classic hubs & Sun Mistral rims
-Control Tech bolt-on 'ti' skewers
-Conti Ultra 2000 700x25 clinchers w/Slime Lite tubes
-SRAM PC 58 chain
-Cycle Dynamics cassette spacers

*The frame/fork is a lugged steel custom built by Dennis Bagenstos/Aquila Frames around 1980, and one really cool feature is the eagle cut out of the bottom bracket 

The only part I purchased was an Endlessbike 18 T cog ($22.00)

So, for $22.00, I ended up with a cool looking, nice riding, very lightweight (15.6 lbs) single speed. Of course at one time or another over the past couple decades I did buy all the stuff that was laying around. The next step is a custom paint job and then it's no longer a cheap conversion!?


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## il sogno

Nice bike. I'm glad you were able to load up the photos.


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## refund!?

il sogno said:


> Nice bike. I'm glad you were able to load up the photos.


I appreciate the compliment and the help in getting me started in the right direction towards sorting out my PHOTO UPLOAD problem. Unfortunately my picture taking skills are similar to my PC abilities - not very good. Thanks!


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## Doggity

Paint it! What are you waiting for? It is still a cheap conversion, that won't look at all cheap when you're done painting it. While you're at, I think those Nitto drop bars are fairly _screaming _for you to PLEASE take OFF the Off-the-Front tape, and wrap them with some proper cork tape, and then amber shellac it. The bars will then have a honey golden color, like a Brooks B17. You will then have a real class act that you can ride, or sell on Ebay for way more than you've got into it (and you're a fool if you do!).


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## Dave Hickey

refund!? said:


> I appreciate the compliment and the help in getting me started in the right direction towards sorting out my PHOTO UPLOAD problem. Unfortunately my picture taking skills are similar to my PC abilities - not very good. Thanks!



That is a beautiful bike. Old track frames are great....


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## Reynolds531

*Freewheeling*

Don't stop pedaling when people are watching and they'll never know that you're not a hard core fixee. When no one's around coast down those hills with the wind in your hair.


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## RalThunder

*Raleigh Grand Prix*

Alright, so it's not a fixed gear but I did convert this to single speed and I am really enjoying riding this bike. This bike was my Dad's in the 70s and he was going to get rid of it so I took it off his hands and finally got it done this week. I'm sure I spent around $100 total. Maybe too much? Happiness on a bike is priceless.

RalThunder



This bike consists of mostly original parts with a few new parts:
New:
Freewheel
Chain
Stem
Handlebars
Threadless Stem adapter
Saddle
Brake Cable
Tires
Tubes

Used Parts:
Brake Levers - only front hooked up.
Front brake and cable.


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## refund!?

Well the frame/fork is at the painter (It's going to be yellow and white similar to a paint-job I saw in Hot Tubes a long time ago). I'll provide photos soon.


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