# 2010 566 Rival



## skyliner1004

Picked up my new bike today [Size S (51) 566 Rival], installed my new GP4000S tires, Keo 2 max pedals, put on my Shimano R132L Shoes, and went for a 25 mile ride around NYC: West side highway, a lap around central park, and ended in Chinatown. 

The bike is smooth, I did it with my two pals who had a Tarmac Comp Double, and another with a Madone 4(?) Series. Both said my bike was smooth as butter. 

The rear shifting and the braking were 100% problem free on my first ride. I had some trouble getting my front derailleur to get the chain from the small ring to the large. Dropping it from the large down to the small was no problem. Any tips on how to adjust my FD to get it to shift up to the big ring more reliably?

The handlebar (Fsa vero compact) and saddle (selle royale seta) is very comfortable. i have no problem in either the hoods or the drops. the narrow bars allow me to get into a more aero position and are fine for my arm length/shoulder width. The saddle didn't cause me any problems like the Selle Italia SLR saddle did. My ride was about 2 hours and i have no complaints. Its very comfortable. I'm sure i can afford to lose a little bit of weight in both of these items, but for the non weight-weenies reading, they're very nice.

Weight, i didn't get a chance to put on the scale at the lbs. i'll have to do it on the digital bathroom scale tomorrow. i'll get the average of 3, but i'm guessing it will be about 18lbs with pedals. Its not as light as i'd hope. Does anyone have any tips on where to drop weight first?

Are there any questions you guys would like answered about the bike? Let me know.

Update 6/13/10. Here are the long awaiting pics.


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## Weav

Sounds Great! How about a picture? What size is your handlebar? I feel like I could use one size up, especially on climbs, I'm 5'9" and the 42cm bar seems a bit too narrow for me. It's comfortable in the saddle but out of the saddle it isn't.

My tip on where to drop weight would be the wheels. I'm waiting on a new set of wheels, Dura Ace 7850 SL Tubeless, and I'm dropping a pound off the bike by that alone. The weight loss is just a bonus, a good set of wheels will take your 566 to a new level compared to the boat anchors of the Fulcrum 7's that came on my bike which were pushing 2000 grams. Not knocking the Fulcrums, they are great for the price, but they are not in the same league as Dura Ace, weight aside. 

You will probably want to find a shop to adjust your derailleurs after about 100 miles or so, and you'll probably have to do it a couple time after that because the cables are going to stretch out and until they've broken in the slack from stretching out will affect shifting, especially the front.


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## skyliner1004

i have the size S (51) 566, anyone know the handlebar width that comes with the bike? If not, how is it measured? from the absolute left to absolute right of handlebar? or center to center?


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## George M

skyliner1004 said:


> i have the size S (51) 566, anyone know the handlebar width that comes with the bike? If not, how is it measured? from the absolute left to absolute right of handlebar? or center to center?



C to C


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## skyliner1004

^^ thanks you


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## maximum7

Nice, but take off the "dork" disc!


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## adamssss

nice bike and its a Madone 5.2


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## skyliner1004

adamssss said:


> nice bike and its a Madone 5.2


haha what?


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## skyliner1004

can anyone help me find some info on the 2010's saddle?

it looks like a Selle Royal(e) Seta, but i can't find any info on it online.


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## skyliner1004

have about 110 miles on the bike now and everything is so far so good. The ride is super smooth and i know the frame and fork is doing all the work of absorbing the road vibrations. i'm slowly getting better at the rival shifting and the brakes are amazing. I try not to squeeze them too hard since they're still in the break in process. 

Handlebars are very comfortable and the saddle is decent. The Selle Royale Seta saddle is tough to find online, but it is nice and it is ICS compatible so i can use ICS saddle bags such as this one: http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A0694

The GP4000's are super smooth also. I'm riding at 90psi, i'm 150lbs. Is 90psi too low?

I have a new Thule T2 917XT, a Thule home bike stand, and 2x LOOK CF cages on order.


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## George M

skyliner1004 said:


> have about 110 miles on the bike now and everything is so far so good. The ride is super smooth and i know the frame and fork is doing all the work of absorbing the road vibrations. i'm slowly getting better at the rival shifting and the brakes are amazing. I try not to squeeze them too hard since they're still in the break in process.
> 
> Handlebars are very comfortable and the saddle is decent. The Selle Royale Seta saddle is tough to find online, but it is nice and it is ICS compatible so i can use ICS saddle bags such as this one: http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A0694
> 
> The GP4000's are super smooth also. I'm riding at 90psi, i'm 150lbs. Is 90psi too low?
> 
> I have a new Thule T2 917XT, a Thule home bike stand, and 2x LOOK CF cages on order.



I think 90# may be a little low, but I weigh 190. I put 105 in front and 110 in the rear. If you go to low you'll start getting pinch flats.I think if I were you I would put 100# in the front 105# in the back. You just have to see what's comfortable to you, but don't go any lower.


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## maximum7

I'm 160 and I run 115 in mine.


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## skyliner1004

are you guys running 700x23?

if so, then tomorrow i'll try a ride with 100lbs so i dont make such a drastic change and see if i feel any different. i ride some very bumpy roads. (urban)


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## skyliner1004

Heres some more/updated pics with new home storage rack:


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## skyliner1004

Just placed the order with PBK for a new set of Sram S30 wheels. Should be a little upgrade over the stock Aksiums. 
What do you guys think of these wheels?

Depth 30mm
Weight 680g (front), 815g (rear)
Spoke Count 18 (front), 20 (rear)
Type Clincher
Finish Black Mirror
Rim Shape Hybrid Toroidal®


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## skyliner1004

haven't been in this thread in a while, its kinda my "log" of upgrades and thoughts of the bike, since the other 566 thread gets most of the action and pictures.

I just upgraded my look 566 a bit more. Picked up a Thomson Masterpiece 330mm, SB seatpost + Selle SMP Stratos Strike saddle. Weights are 192g and 252g respectively.
Those replaced the stock FSA Carbon Pro 350mm 20mm SB seatpost + Selle Royale Seta Saddle. Weights were 220g + 334g respectively. 

Saved an estimate of 110g, or .24 lbs.


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## Weav

Awesome! Post some pics so we can see the upgrades.


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## Biker Dude

skyliner1004 said:


> haven't been in this thread in a while, its kinda my "log" of upgrades and thoughts of the bike, since the other 566 thread gets most of the action and pictures.
> 
> I just upgraded my look 566 a bit more. Picked up a Thomson Masterpiece 330mm, SB seatpost + Selle SMP Stratos Strike saddle. Weights are 192g and 252g respectively.
> Those replaced the stock FSA Carbon Pro 350mm 20mm SB seatpost + Selle Royale Seta Saddle. Weights were 220g + 334g respectively.
> 
> Saved an estimate of 110g, or .24 lbs.


Did you get your Look at a NYC shop? I've gone to Bike Renaissance and Larry and Jeffs as they booth carry Looks. Just curious if I should expand where I'm looking.


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## George M

I think your going to like those Sram wheels sky. Your bike is really looking good.:thumbsup:


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## skyliner1004

No, i got it pretty far away from NYC  Not many Look dealers to work with there.

And yea i've had them for about 2 months and have over 300 miles on them. They've very good wheels and i've done 2 centuries on them and have not 1 complain. They look great when the bike is still, and the decals look great when spinning. they aren't only good lookers though; the Sapim spokes 18/20 are strong enough for my weight and the 30mm rim with zipp technology gives me a bit more aerodynamic advantage. The hubs are also super smooth and i can coast significantly (to a 90% significant level  ) longer compared to my aksiums. The sound is pleasurable also. Not much to complain about except they weigh 1560, but i'm fine with that for everyday training wheels in horrible riding roads.

Edit:

Heres some pics of the updated bike, just got the saddle and seatpost today. Put the bike on the trainer and the saddle worked for my butt for the 30 mins i was on it w/ padded shorts. What do you guys think of the bike?


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## blackjack

Nice, you're gonna saw off some of that steer tube though?


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## skyliner1004

blackjack said:


> Nice, you're gonna saw off some of that steer tube though?


yep, i'm going to give myself some more miles to make sure the fit is perfect before i do anything that i can't reverse. If i can't get comfy within the next 500 miles or so, i'll get a pro-fitting then cut the rest off after that.


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## skyliner1004

As pictured above (with 2 cages + pedals + uncut steerer +spacers) weight is 16lbs 6oz (16.375lbs). Any suggestions on further dropping the weight to the 15lb range?


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## Cooper1960

Why can't that be my bike?? 
Sweet looking ride you lucky dog.
I wonder how much weight you will shave when you trim the stem and drop all those extra spacers? How about the seat post, did you cut the extra off?

Enjoy it buddy.


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## Amfoto1

skyliner1004 said:


> As pictured above (with 2 cages + pedals + uncut steerer +spacers) weight is 16lbs 6oz (16.375lbs). Any suggestions on further dropping the weight to the 15lb range?


Leave one water bottle at home and take a pee before your ride. Those two things will drop the most weight! Byond that... 

The Rival crank isn't the lightest. I don't have the numbers for compact, but the standard size Red crankset is 80 grams lighter than the Rival... I would guess you'd see similar savings swapping out a compact set. The Red should be stiffer too. 

There are some even lighter cranksets out there... But I'd be careful about something that compromises strength and/or stiffness to get lighter, plus swapping a Red for a Rival would be a direct tradeoff and wouldn't require a change of bottom bracket.

You won't lose much add'l weight changing out any of the other Rival components. The biggest savings after the crankset might be with the cassette. By going to a Red or Dura Ace cassette you could knock off another 50 grams.... However the Ti parts that are used to lighten the cassette are less durable, so expect it to wear out a lot faster. There are some chains that are lighter and might save you around 25 or 35 grams. I don't know if they'd sacrifice durability or not, though. 

Incidentally, if you have full size crankset and bits to match, going to a compact would offer additional weight savings. The crank itself and chainrings are, of course, lighter with a compact. But also the chain and cassette can be smaller and save a bit of add'l weight. 

You might also be able to seal up the wheels and go tubeless. That might save some weight.... probably 40-50 grams per wheel. Plus that's rotational weight, so you will feel it more. 

It's going to be an item by item thing, if you really want to shave off more weight. A few grams here, a few there... Which will cost a lot per gram. Under 16.5 lbs is quite good already. Ride and enjoy!


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## skyliner1004

Amfoto1 said:


> Leave one water bottle at home and take a pee before your ride. Those two things will drop the most weight! Byond that...
> 
> The Rival crank isn't the lightest. I don't have the numbers for compact, but the standard size Red crankset is 80 grams lighter than the Rival... I would guess you'd see similar savings swapping out a compact set. The Red should be stiffer too.
> 
> There are some even lighter cranksets out there... But I'd be careful about something that compromises strength and/or stiffness to get lighter, plus swapping a Red for a Rival would be a direct tradeoff and wouldn't require a change of bottom bracket.
> 
> You won't lose much add'l weight changing out any of the other Rival components. The biggest savings after the crankset might be with the cassette. By going to a Red or Dura Ace cassette you could knock off another 50 grams.... However the Ti parts that are used to lighten the cassette are less durable, so expect it to wear out a lot faster. There are some chains that are lighter and might save you around 25 or 35 grams. I don't know if they'd sacrifice durability or not, though.
> 
> Incidentally, if you have full size crankset and bits to match, going to a compact would offer additional weight savings. The crank itself and chainrings are, of course, lighter with a compact. But also the chain and cassette can be smaller and save a bit of add'l weight.
> 
> You might also be able to seal up the wheels and go tubeless. That might save some weight.... probably 40-50 grams per wheel. Plus that's rotational weight, so you will feel it more.
> 
> It's going to be an item by item thing, if you really want to shave off more weight. A few grams here, a few there... Which will cost a lot per gram. Under 16.5 lbs is quite good already. Ride and enjoy!


thanks for the tips. its all the small stuff that adds up. this is a hobby though, so its not always about the money. But then again... its ALWAYS about the money, haha.

i'm debating jumping to a full RED groupset. I'd drop 274g (0.6lbs) (according to Sram website) and gain some better shifting and functionality and bling. Is the red groupset @ $1450 a good deal? can it be had for cheaper elsewhere?

I know i can upgrade only the crank and save 70g + brakes and save 55g. They are the biggest savers. But in the end, it makes the most sense to upgrade the entire groupset at once, right?


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## Amfoto1

Personally, I wouldn't spend the money for the full Red group... 

Besides the crankset and chainrings, you see small slight incremental weight savings with the other components. Shifters are 20 grams apiece lighter than Rival. Brake calipers are 22 grams apiece less. Rear derailleur is 34 grams lighter. Front derailleur is 16 grams lighter (and, according to some, a lot flexier because of it's Ti cage... many otherwise Red-grouped bikes are using Force or Rival FD for more precise shifting). 1090R chain saves 22 grams. And Red cassette (11-23T) is 55 grams lighter than Rival. 

By my math, that's 195 grams savings total, not changing the FD. And this doesn't count the crankset, which alone would knock off another 80 grams.Besides, I like the black finish of the Rival group, although it's probably responsible for a lot of those add'l grams. 

Hey, I'm partly Scottish.... I paid just over $500 for a Force 2009 "take off" group last winter. And $400 for a 2010 Rival "take off" group this year, less the crankset... Which was fine with me, since I wanted a Red crank and got that separately for around $200 (new, not a take-off). So, I'm probably the wrong person to ask if $1400+ is a good deal for a group!


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## nyvram

hey! yokota yosemite!!! I had that bike in early 1990s! splattered paint drops paint job. loved it..until it was stolen 

I still have the 1990 catalog..if you're sentimental let me know and I'll mail it to you. I don't need it.


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## skyliner1004

does anyone know if my BB is english or Italian? (the 2010 look 566)


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## qwalls

English.


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## skyliner1004

Excellent! Sram Red groupset is in the mail!


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## skyliner1004

skyliner1004 said:


> Excellent! Sram Red groupset is in the mail!


Got the Red installed today, dropped the weight of the bike from 16.375lbs to 15.5lbs (16lb 6oz to 15lb 8oz) with pedals, with computer

lbs will take care of me after the cable stretch and if i ever need any sram warranties.


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## nyvram

cool deal. respectable weight. Are you shooting for 14.9lbs at some point?


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## skyliner1004

^^ no plans to do that, i'm aiming to build up a Ti bike with my spare parts


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