# DuPontTeflon Chain-Saver Lubricant



## lucky13 (Apr 12, 2008)

Has anyone used this on their chain? If so how was your experience?


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

There's some teflon in some lubes such as Tri Flow, but I haven't seen anything from Dupont yet. They did, after all, invent Teflon.


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## early one (Jul 20, 2010)

Also sold as Teflon Chain Saver, about $5 at Lowes. Works great.

```
DuPont™ Teflon™ Chain-Saver Lubricant
[IMG]https://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/assets/images/pg_chainsaver.jpg[/IMG] A high performance chain lubricant utilizing a patented dry wax formulation.  DuPont™ Teflon™ Chain-Saver doesn’t attract dirt and doesn’t fling off. Can help chains and sprockets last up to 5 times longer.

[LIST]
[*]Goes on wet.  Sets up to a clean, dry, wax film which will not absorb dirt or grime
[*]Will not absorb abrasive contaminants including paper dust, mill powders, lint and grass
[*]Patented self-cleaning technology sheds contaminants to minimize or prevent abrasive wear
[*]Helps chains work better and last longer
[*]Highly resistant to water wash-off and won’t fling off
[*]Water repelling, helps protect against rust and corrosion
[/LIST]
[B]Applications:[/B]

[LIST]
[*]Motorcycle, ATV and go-kart chains (o-ring safe)
[*]All bicycle chains – mountain, road, BMX, recumbent, etc.
[*]Garage door chains, springs, rollers and tracks:
[*]Industrial roller & drive chains, fork lifts, conveyors, stackers, forestry/logging chains, paper corrugator stacker and floor conveyor chains
[*]NSF H-2 Listed.
[/LIST]
[B]Can withstand temperatures up to 300°F (149°C)
[/B]
```


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Good find!


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## lucky13 (Apr 12, 2008)

early one said:


> Also sold as Teflon Chain Saver, about $5 at Lowes. Works great.
> 
> ```
> DuPont™ Teflon™ Chain-Saver Lubricant
> ...


They didnt carry it at my local Lowes but they did have this. I think it is the same stuff with different label?

DuPont™ Teflon™ Multi-Use Lubricant

A superior multi-use lubricant featuring proprietary self-cleaning technology. Lubricates without attracting grit and grime, eliminates squeaks, prevents rust and protects moving parts. Lasts up to 3 to 5 times longer in friction testing against other leading lubricants.

Goes on wet to deeply penetrate and loosen frozen or rusted parts
Sets up to a clean, dry, wax film which will not absorb dirt or grime
Patented self-cleaning technology sheds contaminants to minimize or prevent abrasive wear
Highly resistant to water wash-off, and won’t fling off
Water repelling, helps protect against rust and corrosion
Contains no silicones that may interfere with paints and finishes
Applications:

Motorcycle, ATV and go-kart chains (o-ring safe and no fling-off)
Garage and overhead door chains, springs, rollers and tracks
Hinges, windows, sliding tracks, locks and latches
Winches, hitches, ramps, pivots, cams and pulleys
Threaded parts and rusted bolts
Heavy duty zippers
Firearms, fishing reels, RC vehicles and bicycle chains
Table saws, hand tools, wood working tools and folding knives
Lawn and garden tools and equipment
Industrial chains (fork lifts, conveyors, stackers, etc.)
NSF H-2 Listed
Can withstand temperatures up to 300°F (149°C)
MSDS: 11047PP


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## hawker12 (Oct 19, 2003)

Thanks, going to check that out.


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## bike981 (Sep 14, 2010)

lucky13 said:


> They didnt carry it at my local Lowes but they did have this. I think it is the same stuff with different label?
> 
> DuPont™ Teflon™ Multi-Use Lubricant


FWIW, Amazon carries both types. I have no idea if they are different, but both get good reviews, though I'd be a little concerned about overspray onto the chainstays or rims since they are both aerosols.

Amazon.com: Dupont Multi-Use Lubricant 11 oz. Spray: Automotive

Amazon.com: DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Lubricant, Net Wt 11 oz.


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## Bob Ross (Apr 18, 2006)

bike981 said:


> I'd be a little concerned about overspray onto the chainstays or rims since they are both aerosols.


^^^This


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## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

IMHO, everyone I have talked with says that TriFlow is not good for chains, it has something to do with too low of a viscosity to stay on the chain for long. I understand TriFlow is good for pivots (ie: brake, derailleur, etc) but not good for chains.

I have tried a lot of chain lubes over my riding lifetime and the one I keep coming back to is Finish Line Dry. It has Teflon and penetrates very well and stays on. One that I don't care for is Pro-Link. For me, it makes a dirty mess and I wind up having to clean my chain way too often which takes away from my riding.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Agree: Tri-flow too thin, spray too messy and wasteful. If they spray lube is good, you might spray it into a container or lube bottle to collect it and then drip it on as you would otherwise. 

I prefer wet lubes like Pro-Link, Chain-L, chain/bar oil, etc...


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Operator error*



RoadBoy1 said:


> One that I don't care for is Pro-Link. For me, it makes a dirty mess and I wind up having to clean my chain way too often which takes away from my riding.


Without doubt you are applying it incorrectly. Many, many people use it religiously without having anything like what you describe.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

+1 Pro-link


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

IMO, the problem with "dry" lubes or congealed wax is that when they get squished out from between the pin and bushings by the forces and motion, they can't flow back into the joint like wet lubes can.


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## jwp3476 (Jun 22, 2010)

I tried the Dupont Teflon Multi-Use lube a couple of years ago on the chain. It worked fine in the summer when it was hot but didn't seem to penetrate into the links when the weather cooled down. However, I do use it to lube my Speedplay Zero cleats. I have been using ProLink Gold every 100 miles or so and my chains & cassettes last much longer than with the Dupont lube.


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## lucky13 (Apr 12, 2008)

jwp3476 said:


> I tried the Dupont Teflon Multi-Use lube a couple of years ago on the chain. It worked fine in the summer when it was hot but didn't seem to penetrate into the links when the weather cooled down. However, I do use it to lube my Speedplay Zero cleats. I have been using ProLink Gold every 100 miles or so and my chains & cassettes last much longer than with the Dupont lube.


I couldn't find Dupont Chain Saver but I found Multi Use at Lowes so I email Dupont a couple of days ago and asked it there was a difference between the 2 products and I got a response a day later.

there is the response:

Nathan,

Multi-Use and Chain Saver are very different now. They used to be similar but now they are significantly different. Use Chain-Saver as that will be better for resisting dirt. I assume that you are using this product on a motorcycle chain.

You can obtain it at Northern Tool or Wal-Mart. Some independent motorcycle shops will also carry it and if they don't, they can order it through Tucker Rocky. There should not be a significant price difference between these three channels.

If you want to buy it at Wal-Mart, follow this link and check availability in your zip code. CHAIN SAVER LINK. Walmart also carries our O-ring safe chain degreaser.

Happy holidays.

Bill Coleman

Director of Sales & Marketing

Finish Line Technologies, Inc.


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## early one (Jul 20, 2010)

Finish Line Technologies answered an email to Dupont?


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Hmmm. Sounds like Finish Line licensed the Dupont name to put on their chain lube.


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## lucky13 (Apr 12, 2008)

looigi said:


> Hmmm. Sounds like Finish Line licensed the Dupont name to put on their chain lube.


I wanted info on DuPont Chain Saver so I went to DuPont website and followed the links to "contact us" and asked the difference between the two products. The response was from 
Bill Coleman

Director of Sales & Marketing

Finish Line Technologies, Inc.

(Licensee, DuPont® Teflon™ Lubricants)

Might this mean DuPont owns Finish Line?


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

RoadBoy1 said:


> IMHO, everyone I have talked with says that TriFlow is not good for chains, it has something to do with too low of a viscosity to stay on the chain for long. I understand TriFlow is good for pivots (ie: brake, derailleur, etc) but not good for chains.
> 
> I have tried a lot of chain lubes over my riding lifetime and the one I keep coming back to is Finish Line Dry. It has Teflon and penetrates very well and stays on. One that I don't care for is Pro-Link. For me, it makes a dirty mess and I wind up having to clean my chain way too often which takes away from my riding.


I use triflow on the mtb (relube after every ride)

finish line dry goes on the road bike though


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## early one (Jul 20, 2010)

lucky13 said:


> I wanted info on DuPont Chain Saver so I went to DuPont website and followed the links to "contact us" and asked the difference between the two products. The response was from
> Bill Coleman
> 
> Director of Sales & Marketing
> ...


Very interesting.
Thanks for posting the email. I guess Finish Line licenses and markets the product from DuPont.


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## draganM (Nov 27, 2001)

looigi said:


> IMO, the problem with "dry" lubes or congealed wax is that when they get squished out from between the pin and bushings by the forces and motion, they can't flow back into the joint like wet lubes can.


 right, you have to apply wax more often because it picks up dirt and sheds it.You'll see the little flecks on your chain stay. I re-apply every 100 miles or after any wet ride.
My gripe with lube (oil) is it attracts dirt and keeps it in your drive train, whenever I have lube on my chain and spin it backwards on the stand I can actually gear the grit crunching around. This is something I just don't get with wax.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

(Licensee, DuPont® Teflon™ Lubricants)

Means that Finishline is licensing the DuPont/logo name to put on its products.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Operator error*



draganM said:


> My gripe with lube (oil) is it attracts dirt and keeps it in your drive train, whenever I have lube on my chain and spin it backwards on the stand I can actually gear the grit crunching around. This is something I just don't get with wax.


You're most likely doing it wrong - it sounds like you are not keeping the chain clean enough in the first instance as you should not be getting this grinding sound unless you're riding in very dusty/sandy conditions.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


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## Ventura Roubaix (Oct 10, 2009)

I was using graphite powder and voltive candle wax, but the chain was a little noisy and I was noticing what I thought was more than normal ware on my Ultegra crank big chainring, and a lube job didn't seem to last but about 100 mi. So I bought some of the Dupont chain saver yesterday at Walmart. I did a 50 mi ride today with it on the chain an it was not as noisy and also seem to shift better. Don't know about the ware abilities yet. But I think i'm going to like it.


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