# Is there such thing as the "ideal" weight



## blazer (Aug 28, 2008)

I started cycling 4 months ago with a 20 lb Bottecchia and got the cycling bug. Now I want to build a "real" bike. Having never ridden a light weight bike, is their such thing as too light. I think I can build a bike just under 15 lbs with my budget. Any advice on what are the trade offs for light bikes or is lighter always better. Any input is welcome and thanks in advance.


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## unit (Jun 11, 2008)

Honestly, I see and feel no advantage to really low weight. Where I live the hills are just that (hills). I believe that a bike that works really *really* well is far more important than a bike that is lighter than everyone else's (although it is really neat to have light bike).

Ideal weight? I suppose carrying around no unnecessary weight on a bike that is built for what *you* do is ideal. For me that seems to be above the UCI minimum weight.

I could shed a pound or two from my bike, but fearing breaking something every time I ride is something I gave up a long time ago.

I certainly do not intend to take anything away from weight weenies. Picking up a silly-light bike is a really neat feeling. A lot of guys seem to ride faster with ultra light parts. In some cases I have seen people ride parts that they admit do not work as well, but they like them more b/c they are lighter (and they "feel" faster). In the end it is up to you what is most important.

Strictly speaking from a speed stand point, I do not believe a lighter bike is (significantly) faster unless you are climbing....and even then, it will not be faster if it breaks, or works poorly.


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## STARNUT (Jun 19, 2005)

Its pretty easy to build a 15lb bike with parts that won't break. The previous poster is right; braking stuff sucks and normally involves some blood as it seems to break at the most inoppertune time.

I ride a bike that is way under 15lbs (with race wheels) with a powermeter and don't have an issues with breaking stuff. 



I will say that the easiest place to drop weight if your starting with a light frame is in the cockpit (stem, saddle, bars, and post). Those parts can normally net you 1/2 to 3/4 pound over their heavier alternatives.

Starnut


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## ewitz (Sep 11, 2002)

If you want a number.

I vae found the sweet spot to be about 16.5 lbs because it allows for a reasonably light frame, full Dura Ace groupset, some good aluminum wheels and the a reasonably light but still usable cockpit.

Both my bikes come in around this weight. A Time VXRS Ulteam with Fulcrum Zero and a Look 585 with Ksyrium SSC SL2's. The weight includes pedals, bottle cages and computers. 

Could I run them lighter? Yeah, and I do with race wheels but as they are now they are dependable and light enough to race and train on.


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## AlexCad5 (Jan 2, 2005)

The weight thing is totally overrated, and you should completely believe that before spending a $ much less $$$$ on light weight parts. They do not make you faster. IF they are installed correctly they probably won't break.
To get from 16 lbs (the weight of most $6,000-8000 bicycles with pedals) to 15 lbs, you have to replace perfectly good high end parts with silly light components that probably don't function quite as well.
Bottom Line: You haven't been riding nearly long enough to focus on this kind of stuff. Work on your basic riding skills, then your pack riding skills. Get a good set of wheels. Ride for a couple of years. Find a bike that fits you, REALLY fits you. Then - when it is mid winter, and you have already worn out your trainer, you might start thinking about putting you perfectly good bike on a diet.


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## sneakyracer (Dec 1, 2007)

I have found that the aspect that changes the most with light weight is the handling and feel of the bike. The component that makes the most difference are the wheels, for the better or for worse. A wheelset that suits your weight and riding style / purpose is critical and will make the ride better overall. A super lightweight bike might be a little bit too nervous specially if you ride in areas with rough pavement. 16-16.5 lbs seems to be a good overall number. Fit is also critical. My goal is to have a fast, reliable bike that I can enjoy in all day rides all over (hills, plains etc)


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## moabbiker (Sep 11, 2002)

Only matters in races where finishing first or tenth can be a matter of a few seconds. Otherwise, for regular riding I actually want something not too light; I feel like I'm "cheating" if you know what i mean with a bike that's too light.


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## ted_ward (Feb 17, 2008)

Don't worry about weight unless you're racing. The "light" feel is mostly due to the decreased gyroscopic effect of light wheels which makes a bike feel more lively at speed.


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

The ideal weight would be whatever you can build your current frameset up to without undo frailty. A lot of it has to do with your own weight. If you're a sub 150 pound guy and ride primarily on decent roads you can opt for some marginal strength minimal weight components. If you're a 200 pounder I'd stick with stock Campy or Shimano components and a quality wheelset. My weight varies between 155-165 and I've broken 2 crankarms. Both CNC'd arms not forged. A lighter frameset obviously gives you an advantage right from the start but worrying about the weight of your bike gets costly and a bit silly.About 15 years ago a Pro European rider left his DeRosa Primato with Campy Record at our shop for us to sell it for him. I think it was a 57cm frame.We hung it on our trade legal scale and it came back a whopping 23lbs. Yet I'll bet that pro never *****ed one time that his ride was too heavy. He needed a mount that he could beat the crap out of for 10k miles in one pro season without failing him. And his DeRosa did just that.


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## Getoutandride (Sep 1, 2008)

roughly i think 10% of your body weight is acceptable, for example - a fairly light 140 -150 pound guy should manage not to destroy a 14 pound bike someone who weighs 200 pounds should be on a bike atleast 20 pounds 

of course some may say this is an irrelevant measure as the weight could be all in the frame, or wheelset, but i say this on a rounded figure all parts being in ratio for the weight


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## AlexCad5 (Jan 2, 2005)

Getoutandride said:


> roughly i think 10% of your body weight is acceptable, for example - a fairly light 140 -150 pound guy should manage not to destroy a 14 pound bike someone who weighs 200 pounds should be on a bike atleast 20 pounds
> 
> of course some may say this is an irrelevant measure as the weight could be all in the frame, or wheelset, but i say this on a rounded figure all parts being in ratio for the weight


 This is flawed reasoning. It in no way takes into account the strength of various materials or construction methods used.


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## Campag12 (Jul 31, 2008)

I have not broken a single weight weenie component to date but my body is also weight weenie.

I'd say the ideal weight for a bike is 13.6 lbs.


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Factor your body weight, and the bike weight seems pretty insignificant. I'm all about strong muscles, smooth ride, and I guess light wheels would help on climbing...


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## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

Peanya said:


> Factor your body weight, and the bike weight seems pretty insignificant. I'm all about strong muscles, smooth ride, and I guess light wheels would help on climbing...


Meh. Although body weight can be lost, you are used to that already because you live with it everyday. I can feel a distinct difference in the handling of my bike when I load up on food and water compared to riding empty. I decided to weigh my water (I carry 3 bottles) and it came out to about 4 pounds which is close to 1/4 the weight of the bike.


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## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

nvm. duplicate.


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## homebrew (Oct 28, 2004)

Just my opinion but I have found that while many light bikes I've tried climb well they often do not descend as well. They tend to be skittish. Keep in mind that super light bikes to my mind come in two flavors, ultra stiff and flexy. Yet both types have not fared as well on the whole as my 15lb bike on descents and on poor roads. These observations are of a subtle nature however and some folks would never push a bike to the limits that these observations could make a difference. So to answer your question I would say it depends on the type of riding you do


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

perfect weight.... UCI legal road limit.... 


*note for those under 200lbs.... 

for 200+ whatever doesnt break on ya!


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## AlexCad5 (Jan 2, 2005)

homebrew said:


> Just my opinion but I have found that while many light bikes I've tried climb well they often do not descend as well. They tend to be skittish. Keep in mind that super light bikes to my mind come in two flavors, ultra stiff and flexy. Yet both types have not fared as well on the whole as my 15lb bike on descents and on poor roads. These observations are of a subtle nature however and some folks would never push a bike to the limits that these observations could make a difference. So to answer your question I would say it depends on the type of riding you do


 15 lbs is a very light bike. It is not as light as you can make one, but it is very light. I think rider position, fit and front end stiffness has much more bearing on how a bike descends. And the fit and rider position are things you finesse on your own bike, unlike trying someone else's bike that isn't set up for you.


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