# 36/50 compact for 11 speed - any options?



## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

Hello, 

I'm currently kicking around upgrading to 11 speed and am interested in compact. Looking at the gearing, I like the 36 and 50 chainring combo *much* better than the 34 and 50. 

I just looked at the Campy website and alas - no 36/50 is offered. 

I would be looking at purchasing the 2011 Chorus. First of all, is there something fishy about the chainrings or bolts that changed in the 2011 model year for Chorus? 

Second, what are my options for getting a 36t ring on there? Would an aftermarket ring work OK on there? Any brand recommendations that would function well and match ok?

Thanks, 

Nate


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## RussellS (Feb 1, 2010)

TA and Stronglight both make chainrings to fit Campagnolo compact cranks. Their goofy 110/112mm bcd. 11 speed too. Ribble, XXCycle, Bike24 sell them from Europe.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks RussellS, 

I found the product shortly after I posted this question. 

https://www.specialites-ta.com/gb/plateau-nerius11.html










https://www.wiggle.co.uk/ta-110-pcd-nerius-ct-campagnolo-inner-chainring/

So it sounds like there are no design changes in 2011 Chorus that would keep me from using these rings. That is good news but a shame that Campy can't just offer the rings!


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

IIRC, Campy did change the chainring bolt design on 2011.

2009-10 used a screw and separate nut. 2011 uses a screw only, and it threads into the small chainring.

You can verify this by examining the exploded parts diagrams at Campy website, http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/doc/doccatid_3.jsp

Any new small chainring would, or should, have to be compatible with the new scheme. I don't know if you could retrofit the older-style, separate screws & nuts. Besides, they are very $ expensive.

I prefer separate screws and nuts, if they strip or seize you only replace the screw, not an entire chainring. I don't see the benefit of having the screw thread directly into the small chainring.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

Tom-H, This is what I was suspecting, but I needed someone to explain it to me - Thanks! 

Sounds like I might be better off getting a hold of an older (Pre 2011) model crankset. 

It's a shame they make these changes forcing incompatibility.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Just a thought - 50/36 and 53/39 chainring both have the same 14 tooth difference. The 36t is only about 8% "easier" than 39t. 

You could make up that difference by using a 12-27 cassette on a std 53/39 crank, instead of using (say) 11-25 or 12-25 on a 50/36 crank ... unless you were already intending to use 12-27 or 12-29 cassette on that compact, to conquer 20% hills!

Having said all that, I've been quite happy with Campy's normal 50/34 compact, pairing it with 11-23, 11-25, or 12-27 cassettes depending on road conditions and type of ride (race or training). The 11-25 is good all-around , giving a slightly wider range (lower low, higher high) than a traditional 12-25 and 53/39 crank.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

tom_h said:


> Just a thought - 50/36 and 53/39 chainring both have the same 14 tooth difference. The 36t is only about 8% "easier" than 39t.
> 
> You could make up that difference by using a 12-27 cassette on a std 53/39 crank, instead of using (say) 11-25 or 12-25 on a 50/36 crank ... unless you were already intending to use 12-27 or 12-29 cassette on that compact, to conquer 20% hills!


Yes tom, There are multiple ways to skin the cat. I took a trip to NM last summer to ride some 'mountains'. A 39 x 29 was not low enough. That means, If I want gearing to handle this kind of riding, I need a compact of some sort. 

The best situation would be two cranks; a standard for around here and a compact for the occasional trip to hills. I don't want to bother with the cost and hassle of two cranks, so that is what is leading me to a compact. 

The 34 vs 36 issue is just based on me trying to compromise and get gearing jumps that also work OK in the flatlands. 

Every choice comes with compromises, basically.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

If good climbing and flatland versatility is the goal, I would think a basic Campy 34/50 with a 11 speed 11-25 in back would offer a lot. I've been using compacts and with Campy's multiple shift on the rear cog, I've learned to countershift on my sprocket set to have a net shift up one or down.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

I want the 36 for a better experience on flats, where I do most of my rides. It is a subtle difference between the two. 










These two show the same cogs (11-25) but with 36 on the left and 34 on the right. The colums (70, 90, 100, 110) are cadence and the numbers below them are the corresponding speed. 

If you look at the 90 rpm column and work your way up from the bottom, you see that I get a bit more 'range' in the 36 before I am forced to switch to the big ring. It doesn't seem like much (1 mph - 18.4 vs 19.4) but guess where my average speed usually lies. Right in this gap. I know that I still have the option of the big ring at that speed, but I get stuck on rolling hills and sometimes it's hard to make that transition out of the little ring because of an upcoming bump. 

I certainly understand if people don't get what I am saying, but I know my terrain and legs and I am thinking the 36 will work nice and I will still have the compact for real mountains.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Like you said, you know your "terrain and legs" best ... my take on the chart would have been that @ 90 rpm, the gearing range 50/21 thru 50/16 broadly encompasses a speed range 16.8 - 22.0 mph (rounding to 3 digits). 

If you hit a short 'roller' hill, shift to 50/23 or even 50/25 (horrors!) and power up that hill, often a few pedal strokes out-of-saddle will get you over a small hump.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Having raced several years on a compact with a 23-11 in back, I can assure you that the inner ring is virtually irrelevant on flat land, although in a non-race scenario, I've had to use it against 30+mph head winds, which quickly put me in granny gear.

For us "not getting it", you're using a slightly bigger gear in your inner ring and a larger gear in back. Realistically, the difference between your 36x29 isn't _that_ different than a 34x25. I would rather have one rig that can do it all without having to change everything. In some ways, I wish I picked up 25-11 sprockets for my 11 speed than the 23-11s I have. At my weight and fitness, I'm able to spin the 34x23 nicely, but I could see where a 25 would be superior in a long and steep climb. Most of my climbs are long OR steep, so I'm fine.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

tom_h, you make a good point in that I will have a greater range with the 50t (downwards in speed) than I do with my standard cranks now, so I will have to get used to using the large ring in more of those intermediate situations. 

Spade, to clarify about my riding. I'm not a racer and not very fast so the small ring will be relevant to me. I say that I ride in the flatlands, even though central Texas is known as "Hill Country". Flat vs. hilly is all relative, right? I grew up near Lubbock Texas - now that is truly flat. 

I have my new cranks sitting here (2010 Chorus compact - smoking good deal from Competitive Cyclist of all places). I will get the rest of an 11s group together in a month or so. Who knows - maybe I hold off on getting the 36T ring and see how I like the 34. 

Thanks for all the good discussion.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Again, it's on the flats where your inner ring doesn't matter much. 

For versatility, I think it will be hard to beat a compact with a 11-25 in back, especially since the 11 speed makes the change nice and gradual. The 12-27 might be an option if you're willing to ditch your 11 tooth cog. Even as a racer, I don't spend a whole lot of time in that gear.


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