# bb30 clicking



## are

My Hollowgram SI SL bottom-bracket is clicking. I've let it click for 6 months or so (prob 1k miles) - I thought it was a chain problem that would be easy to fix by replacing the chain not the case.

Any thoughts on what the problem/solution? In a really short conversation w/ a mechanic at a local shop, he said he thought it'd be necessary to replace the bottom-bracket. That seems likely a bit extreme. I figured the bearings would need to be reinstalled and perhaps replaced, but not the whole BB. I currently have the normal steel ball bearings.

Thanks,


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## lamazion

When does it click? Mine was doing the same thing, but only under heavy load (ie.. climbing, standing, etc..). I took the cranks off and checked the bearings. Everything seemed ok. I reinstalled and so far so good. After some miles this weekend I'll know for sure.


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## tconrady

Make sure you don't have a chainring bolt that's loosened up. Thought I had a bottom bracket going bad but everything was better when I tightened the chainring bolts.


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## CHL

are:

What type of bearings do you use (steel or ceramic)? Here are a few things to check.

1. Chainring bolts (properly torqued)
2. Crank arm bolts (properly torqued)
3. Spider retainer ring (propelry torqued & loctite usage)
4. Bottom Bracket Installation
a. Spindle interface area to bearings properly greased?
b. Bottom bracket shell properly greased?
5. Bearing Condition
a. Remove seal of cartrige - are they sufficiently lubricated?

If all above conditions are satisfied than the bearings are damaged/worn and require replacement. It is the concensus of the majority here that the early Cannondale ceramic bearings are crap and were prone to premature failure. The steel bearings did not have the same rate of failure.

To be honest, I have Ceramics in my Super Six and Steel in my CAAD9. Spinning alone, the ceramics are superior for sure. When I rotate the cranks with the chain installed, I can't tell a difference. Although, I do like the red anodized bearing shields! LOL

CHL


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## are

The bearings are steel. I also checked the chainring bolts - they're fine. Most of the other items are tougher for me to check; all good points, though. There seems to be some difference of opinion online re: using grease or loctite to seat the bearings and spindle. I suspect items 3 or 4a are most likely, since I think the BB was installed correctly.

In terms of when it clicks, it's pretty much all the time except for very easy spinning.

Thanks for all the great suggestions.


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## Argentius

*the "whole BB"*

On a bb30 system, is just a pair of bearings.

It is still a fairly new system, I wonder if people are still refining their tolerances? I have seen plenty of BB30 clicks, and while just replacing the bearings is the bazooka troubleshooting answer, it has seemed to work for a couple of guys. 

Thankfully they are quite affordable.


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## Devastator

are said:


> The bearings are steel. I also checked the chainring bolts - they're fine. Most of the other items are tougher for me to check; all good points, though. There seems to be some difference of opinion online re: using grease or loctite to seat the bearings and spindle. I suspect items 3 or 4a are most likely, since I think the BB was installed correctly.
> 
> In terms of when it clicks, it's pretty much all the time except for very easy spinning.
> 
> Thanks for all the great suggestions.


I had a popping, my LBS switched my bearings out and it fixed the popping. Unfortunately I hate the steel bearings and want to put cermics back in, they feel smoother to me.


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## dlighthall

I just built up a 2008 (new) Super Six with SRAM (Truvativ) BB30. After a couple of rides, the crank has started popping/clicking on one side under load. So it is similar to the posted issue above. I have not fixed it yet but I was assuming that it was related to the crank arm, and was planning to remove, regrease and tighten. I can't imagine the bearings acting up so soon but its possible.


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## Chrono

*Not saying this is your problem but....*

I had a click which progressively got worse over the early part of last season. Constant investigation and maintenance (including all the suggestions above) only yielded temporary fixes. The symptom was a click as the the non-drive-side crank arm passed through the 2 o'clock position in the pedal stroke. It started out only occurring under heavy load but eventually occurred virtually every pedal stroke - even easy spinning.

I finally found the problem and it was a debonded BB shell. There was a hairline crack on the drive-side BB shell which would open up under load. I was a definite warranty issue and was handled very well by my LBS and local Cannondale rep. It looked a lot like the pictures here: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=207650

It was harder to see on my bike since it was a black frame and was missed by several mechanics who I had take a look at the bike after I was at the end of my rope.


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## are

Holy cow, that'd suck. Mine is a CAAD9, so I doubt there's a problem with the shell.


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## dlighthall

*ouch, those symptoms are comparable*

Now I am freaked out! Just kidding but this is a priority for inspection. I have a white frame. Where and what should I be looking for?


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## Chrono

are-

I agree that the CAAD9 is likely not suffering the slow death my Super did. Just trying to save somebody the endless investigation cycle I went through.

dlighthall-
Since it is a recent build, it very well could be the crank arms need re-torquing. My cranks were constantly loosening up early on. If that doesn't clear it up, you would be looking for cracking around the BB like the pictures in the link from my previous post.

In my situation, the click occurred as the non-DS crank arm passed through the 2 o'clock position in the pedal stroke but the cracking was on the DS of the BB (hidden by the crankset). I spent most of my time looking at the non-DS crank arm and BB components since that was where the noise was generated. If there is the cracking on the BB shell, it should be easier to see on a white frame than on mine(black clearcoat).


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## chat2rsl

same click, 2008 supersix, removed and cleaned, it went away for about 4-5 miles then progressively gotten worse. definitely in L crank arm and underload and sounds like a creak or carbon rub not really grinding of metal. I can make the noise completely still on the bike stand putting pressure on both crank arm, not in free spin. I have SI crank arms and was wondering if the arm is slipping on the spindle, is others w SL arms seeing this or ?


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## agreen99

My Cannondale Headshok had the same symptoms. The answer was, the stem had loosened and the upper bearing wasn't fully in the frame, slightly canted. Some hammering and stem preload, and the click went away. 

So, has anyone checked that the bearings are fully seated and square?


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## chat2rsl

*squeak*

the retainer clip, unlike the head tube, doesn't allow for movement of the bearing unless the inside lip is cracked and it is moving inward toward center . thx I will check, I have decided to just change the bearings again and relube . I would hate to have a frame problem I have taken alot of pride in the USA made frame and would not be as excited about the replacement


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## pedalingsquares

I have had the annoying noise I thought was coming out of my BB. I have done all the above suuggestions and nothing seem to fix the noise.

Today while I was at the shop, I had our seasoned mechanic look at the noise and after a while he nailed down to the cassette area. I know this may sound weird but it would only happen under good load and the aluminum frame resonates noises. I have a set of DuraAce whhels with the Ti cassette body and brushed some Anti-Seize, installed the cassette and noise is all gone. Go figure.:mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :thumbsup:


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## ninjaslim

I had the same problem for about 6 months, drove me nuts 

Took my pedals off and cleaned the threads, re-greased and replaced 
Problem sorted. Try this before you try anything else.


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## dlighthall

My SS6 simply had a loose crank (SRAM Force) that occurred shortly after the initial build, so its all good.


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## motoricker

I also had a slight click in my BB30 under high pedal force synchronized with the cranks. 
After lubing just about everything else, I reluctantly reinstalled the BB30 bearings using loctite 609 retainer compound. If you research this around the internet you will see it is a pretty common problem and solution. BB30 bearings are a pretty light press fit, so any tolerance variation can leave them a bit too loose. 

Anyway, the loctite fixed the problem completely.


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## Thrupnibits

Did a 100km sportive today and right from the off the BB30 on my Synapse started clicking (when I got out of the saddle and put the power down) and got proggressively worse as the ride went on. 

Thats the first time its made any noise whatsoever. I checked around the shell for any signed of a crack, thankfully there isnt any, and I took ninjaslim's advice and re-greased the pedals, alas to no avail, so Im gonna pop it back to the shop tomorrow and get them to take a look. Its only 2 weeks old so its not like its had loads of abuse.

Ill let you know what they find and how they fix it.


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## vinny

I give you the simple thing to do with BB30 clicking/creaking: the noise is very similar to the one I sometimes hear from my Santa Cruz nomad. The cause is usually the contact between aluminum axle and stainless steel bearings inner races: the grease does not stuck for a long time on such an interface. The simple solution is anti seize grease (I use the copper one): it works great on my nomad and even better on my CAAD9. Before dismounting bearings, loctiting everything, try this. Nine out of ten times, it is the answer.


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## Thrupnibits

I think you could be right there vinny.

My LBS (who are excellent incidentally - nothing is too much trouble - so glad I didnt buy online) took the BB out and examined it and repacked it with grease. Reckoned it had been installed a little 'dry'. Im not sure they used anti seize grease, but if the click comes back, Ill go down that route.

Ahhh, silent pedalling again. Bliss. :thumbsup:


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## srkerd

Hi All, 

I have the exact same problem on my less a month old cannondale synapse carbon 3. 
Under heavy load when the non-drive side is passing 11 o'clock it clicks
It drove me crazy (along with my friends riding with me) during my first century ride couple weeks ago. 

Since I bought the bike I have taken in it in to Sports basement 3 times for the same issue. 

They have torn apart the bottom bracket once already but didn't find a issue but they seem to agree that this is something they have seen with BB30s before. They told me they will try to see if they can get me a new frame. Once they heard it they seemed to be convinced it was the BB with out a doubt. 
I hope it gets fixed with a new frame but should I try to get another bike with out BB30 or does anybody think there could be a solution to this....


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## CHL

Honestly, the BB30 system is not as quiet as the Shimano Octalink or the Campagnolo square taper. I haven't put any appreciable amount of time on outboard bearings to know if they have any noise issue.

There are several steps to take to resolve the clicking noise, based on which cranksets you have. 

The Cannondale Hollowgram spindle has a very tight interface with the inner bearing surface. In fact, you need a mallet to hammer out the spindle from the bearings. The FSA spindles do not have that tight of tolerance. You can insert the spindle through both bearings by hand without any issue. Since you're riding a Synapse, I'll assume that you have either an FSA or SRAM two piece crankset. Here is what I would do.

1. Remove crankset and remove bearings (Iff you press out the bearings, they can be re-used. If you hammered them out, then toss them).

2. Remove the cartridge bearing shield and check to see if it's sufficiently lubricated. Use Phil Wood grease and pack the bearing, if there isn't enough. Don't worry about too much grease, as it will flow out of the bearing.

3. Thoroughly clean the inner surface of the bottom bracket shell.

4. Lightly grease the inner surface of the bottom bracket shell with the Phil Wood Grease or you can use Green Loctite, if you want extra security. Don't over apply the loctite.

5. Press the bearings into the bottom bracket shell.

6. Apply Green Loctite to the inner surface of the bearings. You don't need a lot here. I only had blue loctite and applied a few dabs.

7. Install the spindle, making sure that it is thoroughly cleaned before insertion.

8. Finish the crankset installation as recommended by the manufacturer.

Let the loctite set before you go on a test ride. This is what fixed my problem with my old FSA SL-K BB30 crankset. With my Hollogram SL crankset it was Cannondale's crap ceramic bearings. 

chl




srkerd said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I have the exact same problem on my less a month old cannondale synapse carbon 3.
> Under heavy load when the non-drive side is passing 11 o'clock it clicks
> It drove me crazy (along with my friends riding with me) during my first century ride couple weeks ago.
> 
> Since I bought the bike I have taken in it in to Sports basement 3 times for the same issue.
> 
> They have torn apart the bottom bracket once already but didn't find a issue but they seem to agree that this is something they have seen with BB30s before. They told me they will try to see if they can get me a new frame. Once they heard it they seemed to be convinced it was the BB with out a doubt.
> I hope it gets fixed with a new frame but should I try to get another bike with out BB30 or does anybody think there could be a solution to this....


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## srkerd

Thanks CHL, They just called me back from sports basement and explained what they did and it sounds similar to what you suggested. They said that they want to wait for the loctite to cure and test drive it and give it back to me. They suggested if this doesn't fix it they will ask cannondale to replace the frame... 

He did mention he thought the bearing was a little looser then he is used to seeing. 

Crossed fingers waiting for the bike to come back....


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## srkerd

Well, got the bike back. I went for a 30min ride and pushed as much as I could. I don't hear any clicking, I hope it is done now but they told me if the clicking comes back they are going to talk to cannondale to get me a new frame... 

They have pretty much done what CHL suggested to do in the previous post.


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## skleins

Best of luck!

My new Caad10 started the dreaded BB click after just 2 days....given that I'd bought a bike from the company that more or less invented BB30, I thought it'd be good....................................HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH:mad2:

Not that I care in what country my frame is made but perhaps frame tolerences are not quite what they were now they're being cookie cuttered in the F.E?

Seeing how it works, I'm not sure what the point of BB30 is over external cups...I cant tell the difference between BB30 and my old campag ultra torque.....I'm just going to bosh in a sleeve and return to what works.

:idea:


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## srkerd

I would think that you would have to change your crank set, to make that change but I am not sure, at least in my case with the FSA SL-K Light....


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## CHL

If you have an FSA crankset, you don't even need special tools to try a few things. 

1. Don't remove the bearings.
2. Remove crankset (It has a self extracting bolt just like the Shimano Octalink compatible cranksets).
3. Clean the inner surface of the bearings (surface that interfaces with spindle).
4. Clean spindle well.
5. Apply green loctite to the inner bearing surface or a few dabs of blue loctite.
6. Reinstall crankset & let loctite set.
7. Test ride the following day and see if the issue is gone.

CHL




skleins said:


> Best of luck!
> 
> My new Caad10 started the dreaded BB click after just 2 days....given that I'd bought a bike from the company that more or less invented BB30, I thought it'd be good....................................HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH:mad2:
> 
> Not that I care in what country my frame is made but perhaps frame tolerences are not quite what they were now they're being cookie cuttered in the F.E?
> 
> Seeing how it works, I'm not sure what the point of BB30 is over external cups...I cant tell the difference between BB30 and my old campag ultra torque.....I'm just going to bosh in a sleeve and return to what works.
> 
> :idea:


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## dougrocky123

*2011 caad 10*

My several month old CAAD w/bb30 started creaking. Took it home and took off the chain. Cranks spun freely so I didn't take it apart further. Next ride it was fine until about half way thru the ride and it started creaking again. Stopped at a bike shop and and told one of the shop guys about it. He wondered if the cranks were loose and gave it a push on the pedal from the side. We use to do this to see how flexy a frame might be. The creak was gone for the rest of the ride. I'm not sure what this did to to stop it. Any ideas?


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## climbinthebigring

My CAAD10 had a click in the bottom bracket just after I got it, it has an FSA gossammer crank. My LBS tore apart the BB and cleaned / re greased everything and it went away and hasn't come back since. 
When the LBS took the BB apart they said that some gunk had worked it's way into it from riding in bad weather, which I often do.


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