# SR 11 Record Shift Lever Sticking Issue



## joshf (Aug 5, 2011)

Hi All,

I finally converted to Campy from Shimano. I really like the group but am having an issue that I need help with. Occasionally when I attempt to upshift the thumb lever is stuck and will not move. The only way to fix it is to downshift and then upshift. It happens in different gears. Has anybody had this issue and can you suggest a fix?

Thanks!


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Is the cable, gets stuck somewhere, how did you route the cable? This is kind'a critical ok? The lever has two positions for the cable so u can run both cables (brake and shifter) in the front of the handlebar and the other position is with the shifter going up and then towards the back of the handlebar (or is at the front? cant remember). I'm assuming u have a regular handlebar with no routing for the cables ok?. 

If you do both cables in the front the rd cable gets kind'a stuck or bulge (dont sure about the word or spelling) because the curve is too close, advice you this ok? Had a similar problem with a new centaur.

Move the cable and put it so it runs over and front or back (cant remember) so now one cable goes in the front and the other one in the back u got the idea. 

Second thing or previous thing to do, if you move the lever rubber you will see like a plastic thingy with a hole were the cable pass through, take that plastic off and use a pin or a micro screwdriver and make that hole bigger, put oil in the hole too because there is where the cable gets sticky. The idea is to make the hole smooter so use something barely bigger than the hole ok?? Put the piece back and pass the cable though.

Some people says dont use the metal cable ends because tend to get the cable sticky and u get the problem you are having too. So if you are using a ferule at that end of the cable just take it out ok?

Hope this helps you


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## Tommasini (Apr 24, 2002)

*Alternate idea*

If you happen to have a little bit of finger pressure on the longer shift lever behind the brake lever then it willl lock up the thumb lever. While that doesn't sound like something you'd intentionally do, when you are tired or just not paying attention your fingers may be slighlty pressing on both shift levers at the same time thus causing the slight lockup.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

If you mean the thumb lever gets stuck down and blocks the mechanism this is likely due to the lever pivot needing lubrication. You can easily lubricate it by just pressing the thumb lever down as far as it will go (ie shift the shifter lever a few times and then press the thumb lever down for multiple shifts) and lubricate the pivot that will be visible. You can move it up and down on the pivot a few dozen times (without shifting) and it should work it's way loose. I use waterproof grease as my sweat corrodes the pivot pretty quickly.

My main current gripe with the new (and older) Campy levers is that the main pins that hold on the brake levers can corrode and not "spring back" very readily. These pins have to be pressed out to be lubricated properly. It's doable, but not exactly user friendly.


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

joshf said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I finally converted to Campy from Shimano. I really like the group but am having an issue that I need help with. Occasionally when I attempt to upshift the thumb lever is stuck and will not move. The only way to fix it is to downshift and then upshift. It happens in different gears. Has anybody had this issue and can you suggest a fix?
> 
> Thanks!


In addition to all the excellent advice, check the entire cable routing from shifter to derailleur. It could be that somewhere along, the housing is splayed / frayed. But if you say that you can "fix" it by downshifting and upshifting, more likely is that the routing isn't clean and thus cable tension is not relayed all the way to the shifter.

Good luck!


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## joshf (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks for all of the good advice. I think it is a cable issue and I am going to bring it back to the shop for a look. On today's ride I noticed that when I try to upshift into the smallest 3-4 cogs there is sometimes a very slow reaction before the fear actually shifts. I called the shop today and was told that SR11 is more "Finicky" since the gears are so close. I have to imagine that this can be adjusted so shifting is flawless. I love the looks and weight savings over my DA7800 I just need to get the shifting right. I am trying to learn how to dial it in myself but I'm not there yet so I need help from my LBS.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

joshf said:


> Thanks for all of the good advice. I think it is a cable issue and I am going to bring it back to the shop for a look. On today's ride I noticed that when I try to upshift into the smallest 3-4 cogs there is sometimes a very slow reaction before the fear actually shifts. I called the shop today and was told that SR11 is more "Finicky" since the gears are so close. I have to imagine that this can be adjusted so shifting is flawless. I love the looks and weight savings over my DA7800 I just need to get the shifting right. I am trying to learn how to dial it in myself but I'm not there yet so I need help from my LBS.


What sort of frame and calbe routing are you using?

From my personal expeience, which seems to be shared by a number of others, on fames with good cable routing, 11sp is easier to setup and works a heck of a lot better over the long haul than Campy 10sp. In such setups, I would describe 11sp as anything but finnicky. I never had any complaints with Campy 10sp, but the 11sp works so much better.

However, 11sp is definitely more sensitive to cable routing. With less than ideal cable routing, 11sp can be quite a bit more finnicky to get it working well. Internal cable routing through the frame or bar, any tight bends, or too short a loop housing seem to be the most common problems.


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

Rhankey the problem is not 11 the problem is the new shifter design, even the 10 speed levers with the new design have the same problem because if the cable has 1 sharp curve the cable gets sticky.


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## joshf (Aug 5, 2011)

The bike is a 2004 Serotta Ottrott with no internal routing. Today my LBS tested it and confirmed that it was not shifting well into the smaller cogs. They said that the new parts might be bad and I should wait until Campagnolo comes back from vacation in a month so they can send back my Rear Der., shifters, cassette, and chain?! He said there were just some bad groups that came out. I just got this new 2 weeks ago so this makes no sense to me.
I spoke to the place I bought the group from and he said the bad parts were 2010 SR11 and there is no problems with 2011. He thought there is too much tension.
I really need to get this figured out.


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

BS but anyhow.. many of us are saying the same thing, the cable is getting stuck somewhere, in my particular opinion the problem is in the bends coming out of the shifter or even under the BB. I really believe that if you are going to wait for somebody to fix it for you is just a waste of time and money, we told you what it is, the shop doesn't know? I wouldn't go back there if i was you, probably was shimano they would try to fix it 

Good luck you will need it if you hope to get campy involved in your problem, the lbs doesnt want to put time in your bike w/o knowing what it is, everybody here told you what it is. Have a friend in colorado with a LBS, everytime he gets all this type of problems with the 2 campagnolo bikes he gets peryear, he calls me because waste time figuring out doesn't work for a shop. Besides if they dont fix it they don't get paid and with the excellence of campy costumer service u are better buying a book and fixing the problem yourself. Your problem is easy to fix man...

Good luck.


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## joshf (Aug 5, 2011)

ultraman6970 said:


> BS but anyhow.. many of us are saying the same thing, the cable is getting stuck somewhere, in my particular opinion the problem is in the bends coming out of the shifter or even under the BB. I really believe that if you are going to wait for somebody to fix it for you is just a waste of time and money, we told you what it is, the shop doesn't know? I wouldn't go back there if i was you, probably was shimano they would try to fix it
> 
> Good luck you will need it if you hope to get campy involved in your problem, the lbs doesnt want to put time in your bike w/o knowing what it is, everybody here told you what it is. Have a friend in colorado with a LBS, everytime he gets all this type of problems with the 2 campagnolo bikes he gets peryear, he calls me because waste time figuring out doesn't work for a shop. Besides if they dont fix it they don't get paid and with the excellence of campy costumer service u are better buying a book and fixing the problem yourself. Your problem is easy to fix man...
> 
> Good luck.


What book do you recommend?


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## ultraman6970 (Aug 1, 2010)

If you are in VA or DC i can take a look for you, but u have to bring me the bike.

Gave you a lot of hits in my 1st posting man. Probably even oiling the Y plastic piece that is in the brifter will fix it. Would love to fix you the thing so if you are around my area u are welcome.


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## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

ultraman6970 said:


> BS but anyhow.. many of us are saying the same thing, the cable is getting stuck somewhere, in my particular opinion the problem is in the bends coming out of the shifter or even under the BB. I really believe that if you are going to wait for somebody to fix it for you is just a waste of time and money, we told you what it is, the shop doesn't know? I wouldn't go back there if i was you, probably was shimano they would try to fix it
> 
> Good luck you will need it if you hope to get campy involved in your problem, the lbs doesnt want to put time in your bike w/o knowing what it is, everybody here told you what it is. Have a friend in colorado with a LBS, everytime he gets all this type of problems with the 2 campagnolo bikes he gets peryear, he calls me because waste time figuring out doesn't work for a shop. Besides if they dont fix it they don't get paid and with the excellence of campy costumer service u are better buying a book and fixing the problem yourself. Your problem is easy to fix man...
> 
> Good luck.


+1
Every time I get a Campag 11 equipped bike into my stand with shifting issues that another mechanic has put down to "faulty parts" it is invariably the mechanic who is deficient not the parts.

A friend of mine, who lives too far away to have me sort his bikes out anymore, had shifting problems that 2 mechanics had tried to solve. After a new cassette, chain & hanger had been fitted by one and he's paid another to tube it, it was still no better. I finally visited him for a ride and lo and behold the outer casing had been cut too short. Turns out the two shops he went to did commuter bikes & mountain mainly, with only Shimano equipped road bikes.

A fresh cable & correctly proportioned rear outer solved the problem.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

If the thumb button is trully sticking, it has nothing to do with the cables. It's common for the brake hood to rub on the lever and cause it to stick. Usually, what's needed is to pull down on the lower edge of the hood, so the slit for the lever opens up and allows the lever to move freely.

If the thumb lever won't move at all, it's because the finger lever has pressure on it, or has failed to return properly.

If the shifts to smaller cogs are slow, then it's usually a cable friction problem. I would assume that even a mediocre mechanic is smart enough to first try reducing the cable tension as much as possible, to enhnace the shifting to smaller cogs. If the cable is too loose, then the shifts to larger cogs will hesitate. The idea that 11 speed is finicky comes from mechanics who overlook the cable friction problem and adjust the cable tension back and forth in an effort to get good shifting in both directions. They can try that all day and never get the problem solved.

As already mentioned, poor installation, like cutting the rear cable loop shorter than it's full factory-supplied length may be the issue. I also prefer to route the shift cable along the back side of the bars with the new ultrashift design. With some bars, the front routing may create a bend that is too sharp and creates too much friction. Be sure to use genuine Campy cables and housing. I have had luck using Shimano housing with Campy cables, also.


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