# Continental Grand Prix 4000 tires



## stevo4 (Jun 25, 2007)

My new scott cr1 came with these on the bike with the ksyrium elite wheels. 

It seems like most people are happy with the tires. As i'm a newer rider i think i'm missing something regarding the tires. 

In motorsports, inwhich i participate, its all about the treadware rating and the stickiness of the tires. Not having the knowledge about roadbike tires makes me wonder how this translates to my new sport. The tires basically have no tread pattern on the contact area of the ground and the rubber doesn't seem to have any stick to it at all (hot or cold). 

What am i missing? To me, it seems like i'd be sliding all over the place and not getting the traction during braking i should compared to a car.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

stevo


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Tire realities*



stevo4 said:


> My new scott cr1 came with these on the bike with the ksyrium elite wheels.
> 
> It seems like most people are happy with the tires. As i'm a newer rider i think i'm missing something regarding the tires.
> 
> ...


First thought is that maybe Continental knows what they are doing?  There is no need for tread on narrow road bike tires - tread is for channeling away water or for traction on soft ground. The tire rubber is designed for bike tires, not for motorcycles or cars. If you compare to other tire brands/models, you will find that Conti rubber is very similar. Too-soft rubber on bike tires will simply scrubb off quickly, resulting in very short tread life. Bike tires run at around 100 psi/7 bar, so the interactions with the pavement are not the same as motorcycle tires, and car tires contact the road in a very different fashion, particularly on turns.

Your attempts to compare motorsport tires and bike tires are not relevant.


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## lawrence (May 17, 2005)

If you are talking about lack of tread, road tires don't need them. Tread creates friction and slows you down, creates noise, the minor tread that a road tire has will soon wear off, and tread is used to expel water, most road riders ride on dry roads in no rain conditions.

Cars have tread because they need to expel water to prevent hydroplaning. MTB need tread that grips to get them up loose dirt hills, etc.

The best traction you can get is from bald tires or tires without tread. Bald tires grip the road 100% where tires with tread it's less than 100%. Look at drag racers, their tires are bald because they need traction.

The Continental Gran Prix 4000 are good tires.


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## stevo4 (Jun 25, 2007)

Thanks for the clarification.

Much appreciated.

Steve


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## brewster (Jun 15, 2004)

Tread on bike tires is solely for aesthetic reasons to get you to buy a 
"high-tech" looking tire. It doesn't serve any real-world technical purpose.

brewster


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## zosocane (Aug 29, 2004)

Call it a pyschological thing, but I prefer my road tires to be "grippy" and -- while I used to ride Conti GP4000s -- I know ride Hutchinsons which have a more rubbery-feel to them.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Falling down?*



fornaca68 said:


> Call it a pyschological thing, but I prefer my road tires to be "grippy" and -- while I used to ride Conti GP4000s -- I know ride Hutchinsons which have a more rubbery-feel to them.


I take it you were falling down a lot in corners because the GP4K tires lost traction? And now with the Hutchinsons, you're not falling down any more at the exact same speed, exact same pavement, exact same lean angle, etc? Otherwise, maybe your "rubbery-feel" thing is just plain confusion on your part.


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## Bry03cobra (Oct 31, 2006)

I LOVE the 4000's. I use them on both my road and Tri bikes. The grip great in the dry, and excelent in the wet. Had 3 rides on the 4000's in heavy rain. 2 Tri's last year, one in a tropical storm, had a top 10 bike split that race. And most recently during the Lancaster Pa covered bridge ride. During that ride they performed excelent in a 30MPH pace line in a downpour!!!
Bryan


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## handsomerob (Oct 5, 2005)

Bry03cobra said:


> I LOVE the 4000's. I use them on both my road and Tri bikes. The grip great in the dry, and excelent in the wet. Had 3 rides on the 4000's in heavy rain. 2 Tri's last year, one in a tropical storm, had a top 10 bike split that race. And most recently during the Lancaster Pa covered bridge ride. During that ride they performed excelent in a 30MPH pace line in a downpour!!!
> Bryan


30mph paceline in a downpour? :eek6: :yikes: 

How much was the purse? You must have really good insurance.


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## handsomerob (Oct 5, 2005)

Kerry Irons said:


> First thought is that maybe Continental knows what they are doing?  There is no need for tread on narrow road bike tires - tread is for channeling away water or for traction on soft ground. The tire rubber is designed for bike tires, not for motorcycles or cars. If you compare to other tire brands/models, you will find that Conti rubber is very similar. Too-soft rubber on bike tires will simply scrubb off quickly, resulting in very short tread life. Bike tires run at around 100 psi/7 bar, so the interactions with the pavement are not the same as motorcycle tires, and car tires contact the road in a very different fashion, particularly on turns.
> 
> Your attempts to compare motorsport tires and bike tires are not relevant.



Kerry,

My only serious fall was on some smooth Hutchisons (no tread). I took a turn pretty fast and hit some leaves that initially caused me to loose traction. I literally "drifted" at about a 45 degree angle for what seemed like a while at the time before I actually went down. Is it feasible that some tread on the tire (like on the GP4000's) might have "caught" the pavement in some way to regain traction?

I didn't normally ride Hutchisons and haven't since. I have been using GP4000's and definitely like them for all purpose riding.


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## Bry03cobra (Oct 31, 2006)

handsomerob said:


> 30mph paceline in a downpour? :eek6: :yikes:
> 
> How much was the purse? You must have really good insurance.



Sometimes I get caught up in the moment. Looking back, with the conditions, really should have slowed down. Our wed ride usually avg's around 23mph, with paceline speeds maxing around 30-32 mph. Since I wasnt famiular (sp) with the group we were riding with, should have backed off.
Bryan


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## Mark McM (Jun 18, 2005)

handsomerob said:


> Kerry,
> 
> My only serious fall was on some smooth Hutchisons (no tread). I took a turn pretty fast and hit some leaves that initially caused me to loose traction. I literally "drifted" at about a 45 degree angle for what seemed like a while at the time before I actually went down. Is it feasible that some tread on the tire (like on the GP4000's) might have "caught" the pavement in some way to regain traction?


The problem here was not that the tires didn't stick to the wet leaves, it was that the wet leaves didn't stick to the pavement.

And no, a tread pattern wouldn't have helped. On hard surfaces (like pavement), the bumps and ridges on patterned treads can flex, makint it more likely that the tire will slip.

As mentioned, racing tires (which can experience higher loads that bicycle tires) are all slick because slick tires have more traction - and the reason they have more traction is because they have more contact area with the road, and because the "walk" less because the tread flexes less against the pavement. Patterns (grooves and sipes) are only added to wet weather tires to prevent hydroplaning (which bicycles really can't do anyway). Besides, between the grooves and sipes, each tread block on a rain tire is as large or larger than the contact patch of a bicycle tire.


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## dhtucker4 (Jul 7, 2004)

I have found that Continental tires have greater rolling resistance than Vittoria Open Corsa CX, Veloflex Pave, and Specialized Mondo Pro. But they last so long, especially the Grand Prix 3000 and 4000.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Rolling resistance data*



dhtucker4 said:


> I have found that Continental tires have greater rolling resistance than Vittoria Open Corsa CX, Veloflex Pave, and Specialized Mondo Pro.


How did you determine this? Roll down tests? Repeated time trials at known power output? It would be very interesting to see your data.


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

Try Continemtal 4000 S. 
I used 3000 for many years due to their punture proofness but didn't care for how they rolled.
4000 was alot better than 3000.
4000 S feels better than 4000.
4000 has about 30% less rolling resistance than 3000.
4000 S has about 25% less rolling resistance than 4000.
This puts 4000 S about same as Vittoria and Veloflex...

Here is the links for some rolling resistance testing. Interestingly it was done at Continetal lab in January of 2006 and their tires didn't perform well. Maybe that's why they started to come out with 4000, 4000 with chili compound and 4000 S....

http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

Why bother? There is just as much road spray at half the speed-- and I really don't see it as any more dangerous than on dry pavement. One summer I recall it seemed to rain every race we had. It provided a nice filter-- only the serious guys would show up.



Bry03cobra said:


> Sometimes I get caught up in the moment. Looking back, with the conditions, really should have slowed down. Our wed ride usually avg's around 23mph, with paceline speeds maxing around 30-32 mph. Since I wasnt famiular (sp) with the group we were riding with, should have backed off.
> Bryan


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## al0 (Jan 24, 2003)

Those tests have been performed on steel drums, roling resistance in these conditions does not translate directly to the real road (which are much more rouch so buncing comes into play). So in real conditions supply tires gain some additional advantage and more rigid tires (rough casing, harder compounds etc.) perform worse then in those tests, for example Michelin ProRace (but anyway are great tires).


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## bismo37 (Mar 22, 2002)

I thought the 4000 S was the same tire as the 4000 except it was given silver labeling for flashier looks. I note no difference in my 4000 and 4000S tires while riding. 

At any rate, the Conti tires are good, grippy tires.


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## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

I know for certain my 4000S wear better than my 4000 did and my times for a set loop are slightly better with the 4000s as well (did several back to back passes of a 12mi loop swapping back and forth between the tires); but that could be a mental thing as I knew which tires I had on and was not a blind test.

The difference in performance according to conti is the black chili compound; supposedly you can get the black chili compound in black standard 4000 tires if you go by what several online stores say - however when I contacted conti USA they told me it was in the 4000s only.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> Supposedly you can get the black chili compound in black standard 4000 tires if you go by what several online stores say - however when I contacted conti USA they told me it was in the 4000s only.


I purchased a pair of 4000 with Black Chili from biketiresdirect. While it doesn't say black chili anywhere on the tire, I doubt that it was biketiresdirect that put the black chili stickers on the inside and outside of the boxes they came in. Regardless, I like the tires a lot. They're wearing great and I like the ride.


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## al0 (Jan 24, 2003)

See http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20grand%20prix%204000S.shtml as well


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## steel515 (Sep 6, 2004)

*Conti testing*



Dr_John said:


> I purchased a pair of 4000 with Black Chili from biketiresdirect. While it doesn't say black chili anywhere on the tire, I doubt that it was biketiresdirect that put the black chili stickers on the inside and outside of the boxes they came in. Regardless, I like the tires a lot. They're wearing great and I like the ride.


But what's the best price for 4000/4000S?
They cost too much compared to other tires, and if past is an example, poor quality. I wouldn't put them on my bike.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> But what's the best price for 4000/4000S?
> They cost too much compared to other tires, and if past is an example, poor quality. I wouldn't put them on my bike.


I've got 1000 miles on the front and it looks brand new. No slits/divots/slices, etc. Pretty impressive, IMO. I usually end up spending about $40 each for the tires I use, so me, a few bucks more isn't that big of a deal.


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

I also had a good luck with 4000S.
I got mine from www.totalcycling.com for about $39 and change.
I run 4000S for rear and Supersonic S for the front from Spring thru Fall.

Everyone experience varies depend on weight, riding style, road condition and types of wheels they run but here is my take.

I weigh about 175 to 190 lbs (depend on season) and put about 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year for last 25 years. Wheels I use: Shimano 7800, Hed 3, Fulcrum, Reynolds DV UL Tubular, DV Clinchers and Zipp 404 Tubular

I ride in Northern Va and DC (land of potholes).

Generally Vittoria has best ride but least punture resistance.
Michelin has almost as good as Vittoria with better punture resistance.
Continental has worst ride but best punture resistance.

For clinchers, I use Michelin Pro Race 2 and Conti 4000 S/Supersonic S. Winter time I replace the rear tire with Conti Gator Skin with tire liner (hate getting flat when the temp drops below freezing)
For Tubulars, I use Continental Comp rear and Veloflex on the front (because Veloflex puntures a lot for me). I usually get 1 or 2 flats a yaer and it's always rear.


I personally let go the comfort for punture resistance but that's a personal choice.


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

steel515 said:


> But what's the best price for 4000/4000S?
> They cost too much compared to other tires, and if past is an example, poor quality. I wouldn't put them on my bike.


By the way, you can find a pair of 4000 for about $60 to $70 on eBay


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## RacerJRP (Jul 25, 2007)

Tread is for when it is raining out, or extremely dirty surfaces ( dirt and sand). Any performance race tire for road use whether its cars or bikes should be a slick. More rubber on the road means better traction. Normally the lower the durimeter rating of the rubber the beter, but at a certain point you get too sticky and the power that you make is not enought to overcome the grip to the ground and it binds you up and slows you down. 

As far as what you are feeling, most tires come with a sealer on them, and you need to ride and scuff it off before the tire performs as it should.

I have raced cars and karts for the last six years. Just started road biking 2 weeks ago with the intention of going racing next season. It all comes down to racing!!


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## zosocane (Aug 29, 2004)

Kerry Irons said:


> I take it you were falling down a lot in corners because the GP4K tires lost traction? And now with the Hutchinsons, you're not falling down any more at the exact same speed, exact same pavement, exact same lean angle, etc? Otherwise, maybe your "rubbery-feel" thing is just plain confusion on your part.


Wow. You are a real man of genius.


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## bismo37 (Mar 22, 2002)

Thanks for the link. I guess i never knew my 4000 S tires used the new black chili compound since the tires themselves aren't labeled as such. I figured they were the same as the 4000 but with different label color.


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## Bocephus Jones II (Oct 7, 2004)

cpark said:


> By the way, you can find a pair of 4000 for about $60 to $70 on eBay


Or $50/pair on Steep and Cheap.


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## simonton (Mar 11, 2007)

34.90 with free shipping at bikeisland

http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20A.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=544


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## dhtucker4 (Jul 7, 2004)

Regarding the 4000 and 4000 S - the S compound is a motorcycle racing product. I haven't tried them yet - I only put Continental tires on my rear wheel - because that's the wheel I get 90 percent of my flats on.For the front tire, I tend to go with Veloflex Pave, Vittoria Open Corsa CX, or Specialized Mondo Pro. The Open Corsa is still very weak on the sidewalls.

The 4000 S tire is comprised of black chili particles, from the boffins or ubergeeks at Continental. I hope they keep the tread wear inverted dimples like the regular 4000.


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## SPlKE (Sep 10, 2007)

I run GP 4000 rear and this year started running Vredestein Fortezza SuperLite on the front.

This is the best combo I've ridden.


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## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

dhtucker4 said:


> Regarding the 4000 and 4000 S - the S compound is a motorcycle racing product. I haven't tried them yet - I only put Continental tires on my rear wheel - because that's the wheel I get 90 percent of my flats on.For the front tire, I tend to go with Veloflex Pave, Vittoria Open Corsa CX, or Specialized Mondo Pro. The Open Corsa is still very weak on the sidewalls.
> 
> The 4000 S tire is comprised of black chili particles, from the boffins or ubergeeks at Continental. I hope they keep the tread wear inverted dimples like the regular 4000.


The tread wear dimples are on all of my 4000S tires


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## geraldatwork (Jul 15, 2005)

dhtucker4 said:


> The 4000 S tire is comprised of black chili particles, from the boffins or ubergeeks at Continental. I hope they keep the tread wear inverted dimples like the regular 4000.


I just got a set of the 4000S tires. I guess those dimples are the maybe 1/2 mm deep holes along each side of the center of the tread? So if these are the dimples you are talking about I assume when the dimple is no longer there it is time to replace the tire.


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## wfrogge (Mar 5, 2007)

bsaunder said:


> The tread wear dimples are on all of my 4000S tires


And if you rely on the demples to show you when the tire needs replacing youre throwing money out the door


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## Bocephus Jones II (Oct 7, 2004)

wfrogge said:


> And if you rely on the demples to show you when the tire needs replacing youre throwing money out the door


+1...I always replace when I start getting flats on a regular basis or you can start seeing threads.


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## stonecrd (Jun 12, 2007)

You can usually find the 4000 at probikekit for about $32ea. If you watch you can get free shipping to the US as well. Cheapest place I have found


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## geraldatwork (Jul 15, 2005)

wfrogge said:


> And if you rely on the demples to show you when the tire needs replacing youre throwing money out the door


I have never needed any type of "gauge" to tell when I needed to replace tires. As the poster said just below when I get flats or the threads show.I was curious how they worked. So I gather from your reply when the dimples disappear there is plenty of tread left. On one hand if people replace their tires early they get to sell more tires, good for business. On the other hand if they get a reputation for not lasting long people may make other choices when making their decisions. Bad for business.


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## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

wfrogge said:


> And if you rely on the demples to show you when the tire needs replacing youre throwing money out the door


I generally go by threads or when I start getting too many flats - just making the satement that the dimples are there for those that want them. 

Fwiw - on my gp4000, the dimples were a pretty close indicator. Once they were gone I started looking for the best price to replace them and ordered new ones - a couple hundred miles later when I started getting flats, my new tires had arrived.


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## geraldatwork (Jul 15, 2005)

bsaunder said:


> I generally go by threads or when I start getting too many flats - just making the satement that the dimples are there for those that want them.
> 
> Fwiw - on my gp4000, the dimples were a pretty close indicator. Once they were gone I started looking for the best price to replace them and ordered new ones - a couple hundred miles later when I started getting flats, my new tires had arrived.


That makes sense. I am curiouis how many miles did you get from your GP4000 set, assuming you replaced both tires at the same time and the rear was wearing out first.


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## al0 (Jan 24, 2003)

bsaunder said:


> I generally go by threads or when I start getting too many flats - just making the satement that the dimples are there for those that want them.
> 
> Fwiw - on my gp4000, the dimples were a pretty close indicator. Once they were gone I started looking for the best price to replace them and ordered new ones - a couple hundred miles later when I started getting flats, my new tires had arrived.


It sounds quite reasonable - while on the most road tires any thread on tire is pure cosmetics, dimples on GP4000 are intentionally designed as wear indicator, see 
http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20grand%20prix%204000.shtml
Quotation from there:


> *The new treadThe new t*
> 
> Features new tread wear indicators to help riders gauge the life of their GP4000 tyre. On the one hand you don't lose mileage performance by prematurely replacing the tyre and on the other you don't risk safety by using the tyre beyond its tread service life


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## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

geraldatwork said:


> That makes sense. I am curiouis how many miles did you get from your GP4000 set, assuming you replaced both tires at the same time and the rear was wearing out first.


The rear wore out for me ~1200 miles. I couldn't see threads, but it started to cut very often. That was only a sample of 1 for me though as I'm now running 4000S tires.


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## azdroptop (Jun 6, 2006)

I love the GP4000 and will use them as race tires from here out. They have been good for TT's, Crits and road races. I've had few flats with them and none with in the first 1000 miles. They can be had on ebay for about 30 a tire as well.


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## stevo4 (Jun 25, 2007)

Do you suppose the threads that start showing up is a defect in the tire construction? The dimples are the wear bar indicators. I don't think the threads are supposed to provide the same information (not intentionally anyways). And how much thread is exceptable? I have a small piece on my back tire starting to show but i haven't pulled it. And only have about 750 miles on the tires.

Stevo


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## SPlKE (Sep 10, 2007)

stevo4 said:


> Do you suppose the threads that start showing up is a defect in the tire construction? The dimples are the wear bar indicators. I don't think the threads are supposed to provide the same information (not intentionally anyways). And how much thread is exceptable? I have a small piece on my back tire starting to show but i haven't pulled it. And only have about 750 miles on the tires.
> 
> Stevo


I consider any threads showing as an indication that the tire is trash.

Threads don't wear nearly as well as the rubber that used to cover them.


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## Bocephus Jones II (Oct 7, 2004)

stevo4 said:


> Do you suppose the threads that start showing up is a defect in the tire construction? The dimples are the wear bar indicators. I don't think the threads are supposed to provide the same information (not intentionally anyways). And how much thread is exceptable? I have a small piece on my back tire starting to show but i haven't pulled it. And only have about 750 miles on the tires.
> 
> Stevo


maybe you had to make an emergency stop? That can trash tires fast. In ay event--if you aren't getting flats I'd ride it a bit longer.


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## geraldatwork (Jul 15, 2005)

stevo4 said:


> Do you suppose the threads that start showing up is a defect in the tire construction? The dimples are the wear bar indicators. I don't think the threads are supposed to provide the same information (not intentionally anyways). And how much thread is exceptable? I have a small piece on my back tire starting to show but i haven't pulled it. And only have about 750 miles on the tires.
> 
> Stevo


once you can see threads you should get rid of the tire. 750 miles on a tire, IMO are not acceptable. There are things that make a tire wear faster. First the rear tire wears much faster than the front. the more inflation, or pressure you put in the faster it will wear. a heavier rider will cause the tire to wear faster. also slamming on the brakes and skdding will do the trick. All said any tire that wears after 750 miles is un acceptable.


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## al0 (Jan 24, 2003)

May you post y picture?


stevo4 said:


> Do you suppose the threads that start showing up is a defect in the tire construction? The dimples are the wear bar indicators. I don't think the threads are supposed to provide the same information (not intentionally anyways). And how much thread is exceptable? I have a small piece on my back tire starting to show but i haven't pulled it. And only have about 750 miles on the tires.
> 
> Stevo


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## filmo (Oct 16, 2006)

I've gone through a couple sets of GP4000s and they've all failed due to side wall damage. Anybody else had similar experiences? The sidewalls on these tires seem particularly soft and suspectible to rim damage.

I run them at 100 psi, and weigh only 170 so I don't think its an issue of being under inflated. Previous tires got tones of puncture flats which I'm glad to be ride of, but never any sidewall damage. (I ride on the streets of LA which have tons of road debris)


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

filmo said:


> I've gone through a couple sets of GP4000s and they've all failed due to side wall damage. Anybody else had similar experiences? The sidewalls on these tires seem particularly soft and suspectible to rim damage.
> 
> I run them at 100 psi, and weigh only 170 so I don't think its an issue of being under inflated. Previous tires got tones of puncture flats which I'm glad to be ride of, but never any sidewall damage. (I ride on the streets of LA which have tons of road debris)


I have no such issues.
I weigh 180 and run about 110 to 120 psi.
I have about 2000 miles on mine right now and these are the pretty much only tires I use on the streets of Washington DC (nations capital of potholes...)


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## azdroptop (Jun 6, 2006)

filmo said:


> I've gone through a couple sets of GP4000s and they've all failed due to side wall damage. Anybody else had similar experiences? The sidewalls on these tires seem particularly soft and suspectible to rim damage.
> 
> I run them at 100 psi, and weigh only 170 so I don't think its an issue of being under inflated. Previous tires got tones of puncture flats which I'm glad to be ride of, but never any sidewall damage. (I ride on the streets of LA which have tons of road debris)


Never had that problem. I'm thinking 100 psi is too low and may be part of the problem. I'm 180 and run 115 to 120 up front and 120 in the rear.


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## nealrab (Aug 6, 2002)

*Hey cpark, need some more info!!*

I don't know if this message will get to you via your e-mail system, but I'm hoping it will. You gave me some info a while back about your Fulcrum Zeroes from bike24 & I need a bit more info about that...You said packing was great, wheels arrived in great shape & shipping was reasonable. My current dilemma is about import tax/duty, etc. from Germany. Did you incur any? I was informed that these add-on expenses could be a problem from UPS/DHL etc. Any experience with that? [email protected]


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

No import tax/duty was incurred for me.
I'm not sure what that is but maybe the fuel surcharge?

Good luck.


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## nealrab (Aug 6, 2002)

*Thx for response cpark...*

It seems that some folks that ordered from euro suppliers (especially Italy, but not limited to Italy) have incurred Duty charges from the carrier (UPS or DHL, not USPS) when delivery of goods was made. Usually these were high ticket items like wheelsets. I knew that you ordered from Bike 24 & I was still considering it as well until I heard about this charge. One poster, fabsroman, was held up for $300 from UPS prior to delivery of some Campy Record stuff from 11speed.com. It took a few months for him to clear it up. He did stop payment on his check but the hassle was substantial to clear it all up with UPS & US Customs. See current post I started in General Discussion titled Italy cf. rest of Europe for online ordering...So I wanted to see if you were charged anything for import tax before you got your stuff from bike 24. I thought not, but was just verifying with you. Thanks for the info...I'll probably order from them too. Especially since your wheelset came packed pretty well!! Hope you're enjoying those Fulcrums. Again, thx for responding, much appreciated. Neal R


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## dhtucker4 (Jul 7, 2004)

cpark said:


> I have no such issues.
> I weigh 180 and run about 110 to 120 psi.
> I have about 2000 miles on mine right now and these are the pretty much only tires I use on the streets of Washington DC (nations capital of potholes...)


I bounce around between 185-195 lbs, and run 120 (the maximum is 8.5 bar = 122 psi), but I have a Continental Race lite tube, which somehow loses 3 psi every 4 hours, which is acceptable for me. I don't like putting heavy tubes in an expensive tire. Which sort of defeats the purpose of sort of light tires. I only put the 4000 on my rear tire.


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## craigd (Apr 3, 2007)

love these tires recently rode from melbourne to sydney (980km) on crappy highways with lots of glass etc and only had 1 flat truly awesome


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