# installing pedals



## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

do you guys actually use a pedal wrench? or just a regular wrench? 

and what grease did you guys use to grease the thread before installing?


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## xxl (Mar 19, 2002)

manhattanproj said:


> do you guys actually use a pedal wrench? or just a regular wrench?
> 
> and what grease did you guys use to grease the thread before installing?


Yes, I actually use a pedal wrench; mine is genuine "Chrom" (says so right on the wrench--lost in translation?)

You wouldn't necessarily _need_ a dedicated wrench, except on many pedals, the flats are too narrow for your average Craftsman, and cone wrenches are just too delicate. A number of pedal makes have Allen recesses on them, so you just need an Allen key, but...the real usefulness of a pedal wrench comes not when putting them on the bike, but taking them off. Pedaling can really torque those puppies on the crank, and the pedal wrench gives you the leverage you need to pull them off; so much more elegant than a cheater bar.

The grease you use on the threads (and it is important to use _something _here) doesn't matter a whit; it's only there to forestall galling.


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## davcruz (Oct 9, 2007)

I like anti-seize compound on my pedal and BB threads.


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## bbgobie (Aug 13, 2007)

I use regular bearing grease that I use on other parts of the bike.
Regular wrench, or hex key for my egg beaters


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

what about for look keo pedals? anyone with experience installing them want to share?


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## bbgobie (Aug 13, 2007)

Honestly man, it's a pedal.
Follow the instructions, and no need to torque super duper hard.

But definately put some kind of grease on it, otherwise it will be very hard to remove.


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

yea, but if i dont have to, then i dont want to spend 30 on a wrench.


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## PdxMark (Feb 3, 2004)

Just remember -- Righty Tighty on Right, Not on the Left


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

Srsly dude, for a guy who spends the time to ask an internet cycling forum about every possible tidbit related to cycling, you need to learn the magic of both cheap performance bike stuff, and google.

Performance wrench: $15 before discounts 
Or, from googling "bicycle pedal wrench," http://www.brandsonsale.com/sf-000750.html , $9


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

manhattanproj said:


> what about for look keo pedals? anyone with experience installing them want to share?


The Look Keo's to which I'm familiar all require an allen key for installation/removal, as they lack the flats for a pedal wrench.


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

Argentius said:


> Srsly dude, for a guy who spends the time to ask an internet cycling about every possible tidbit related to cycling, you need to learn the magic of both cheap performance bike stuff, and google.
> 
> Performance wrench: $15 before discounts
> Or, from googling "bicycle pedal wrench," http://www.brandsonsale.com/sf-000750.html , $9



the problem is, i'm a little brand conscious.


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

Argentius said:


> Srsly dude, for a guy who spends the time to ask an internet cycling about every possible tidbit related to cycling


btw, you need to stop stalking me in the forum.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

It's unlikely that you'll need a dedicated pedal wrench. You're starting your own shop? Sure - then get one. 

As for what kind of grease to use, I always recommend the slippery kind.


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

You are brand conscious for a pedal wrench, but then protest the 30 dollars? Crazy.

I stalk everyone. Don't worry.


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

yea. if i dont have to then i dont want to. just how many times am i gonna use that wrench if i were to get one? just not worth the money. 

and generic brands are just not up to snuff in terms of quality, tho you can argue that.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

manhattanproj said:


> yea. if i dont have to then i dont want to. just how many times am i gonna use that wrench if i were to get one? just not worth the money.
> 
> and generic brands are just not up to snuff in terms of quality, tho you can argue that.


Be sure to let us know how well a pedal wrench works with installing/removing Keo pedals.

As I've already mentioned earlier in this thread, and can be readily verified by looking at specs or pictures on the Internet of the Keo pedals, you're not going to find much use for any pedal wrench when installing/remobing Keo pedals.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

RHankey said:


> Be sure to let us know how well a pedal wrench works with installing/removing Keo pedals.
> 
> As I've already mentioned earlier in this thread, and can be readily verified by looking at specs or pictures on the Internet of the Keo pedals, you're not going to find much use for any pedal wrench when installing/remobing Keo pedals.


 . . . and the "righty-tighty . . . " rule don't work so well either when you're looking at the back of the crank.


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## Applesauce (Aug 4, 2007)

I try to use the "back flats." They're usually 6 or 8 mm hex wrenches. I think pedal wrenches are among the most useless tools in any shop, though there are a (very) few somewhat good ones.

As far as torque goes, I used not to worry about it too much. But then I started to see the faces on my crank arms banged up right at the point of peak power in put ("under" the spindle at about 2-3 o'clock, if that makes sense). I took a look at a 210-lb trackie friend of mine's bike, and this effect was even more noticeable. Now I use pedal washers all the time, and I put pedals on fairly tightly.

I use any old grease, whatever's handy; it doesn't really matter.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Useless?*



Applesauce said:


> I think pedal wrenches are among the most useless tools in any shop, though there are a (very) few somewhat good ones.


Until the first time you have to remove a pedal that was torqued on hard a long time ago. Then it turns out to be very useful. 

And I think there are several very good ones. The lower-end Park, usually about 25$, has been a good investment, IMHO. 

To the OP: if you're only installing pedals that don't have wrench flats, obviously you don't need one. If you own several bikes, like to tinker, and especially if you like to build stuff up from old parts, I think it's well worth the lousy $25 to have a pedal wrench in the toolbox. I mean it's 25 bucks, and lasts forever. How much do you spend every year on, say, tires? Or sports drinks?


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

wim said:


> . . . and the "righty-tighty . . . " rule don't work so well either when you're looking at the back of the crank.


so standing to the side of the bike, right side pedal turn right to tighten and left side pedal turn left?


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## Slartibartfast (Jul 22, 2007)

Left-side *counter-clockwise* to tighten.

BTW, lotsa Performance tools are perfectly fine.

And I say lube 'em up and honk down on 'em hard when tightening (I like Performance lube). Avoid the dreaded pedal click that's so hard to diagnose...


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## manhattanproj (Jul 13, 2006)

fougasg said:


> Left-side *counter-clockwise* to tighten.
> 
> BTW, lotsa Performance tools are perfectly fine.
> 
> And I say lube 'em up and honk down on 'em hard when tightening (I like Performance lube). Avoid the dreaded pedal click that's so hard to diagnose...


so for left pedal when facing the bike left side, turn left. 

so it is right side turn right and left side turn left. 

does chain lube work as grease for the thread? dont think so? that's all the grease/lube i have


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

manhattanproj said:


> does chain lube work as grease for the thread? dont think so? that's all the grease/lube i have


NO! You want a nice heavy grease, and lots of it- wipe of excess. If you're going to the hardware store for grease pick up some Teflon tape and wrap the threads. It seems counter-intuitive, but the the slipperier you can make the threads the less likely they are to come loose when you don't want them to (because tightening them when slippery causes a nice even 'stretch' of the metal with lots of surface contact), and makes them easier to get off when you do want them to. Don't over tighten.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

manhattanproj said:


> so standing to the side of the bike, right side pedal turn right to tighten and left side pedal turn left?


Correct. After a few beers, the only way I can remember pedal threading is "drive side (right) like any other screw on the bike" and "non-drive side (left) the other, weird way." 

I didn't mean to confuse you. Forget my snide comment about the rule not working—it was based on the silly notion of reaching _through_ the frame to install Keos with an Allen wrench.


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## bbgobie (Aug 13, 2007)

To lossen, always turn towards the back. Thats all you need to know


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