# I've got a high end aluminum bike...



## AidanKeats (Jan 8, 2011)

And I'm trying to shave off some weight. 

Ideas: 
carbon handlebars and stem-do they really make a difference in any weight savings or vibration dampening?
-carbon crankset
- carbon seatpost - same question as handlebars




Wheelset (i want to eventually get a nice lightweight set, but I am gonna stay away from new wheels right now)


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## fun2none (Mar 16, 2010)

From my experience, losing rider weight yields the best bang for buck. This followed by wheels and tires.

I have used carbon bars, seat post, and crank set. The bars and seat post soak up road vibration, especially over bad roads and long rides. I did not notice much difference with carbon cranks.

Buying lighter parts for an aluminum frame will reach a point of diminishing returns. Eventually, you will need high end carbon frame for ultimate weight savings.


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## AidanKeats (Jan 8, 2011)

I only weigh 135. So Its not a problem.


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## T0mi (Mar 2, 2011)

Changing material doesn't necessarily mean weight saving. There are ton of carbon handlebars and seatposts that weight more than lightweight alu ones.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

fun2none said:


> Buying lighter parts for an aluminum frame will reach a point of diminishing returns. Eventually, you will need high end carbon frame for ultimate weight savings.


Pretty much. Plus the OP is way too new to already be talking of upgrade-itis.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*questions*

carbon handlebars and stem:

do they really make a difference in

1. any weight savings -- that's quantifiable, and you can look it up, depending upon what you want. Any particular part is insignificant -- you save significant weight by saving a little bit on a lot of parts.

2. vibration dampening? Not really. While it's theoretically ture, I can't tell a difference. Your tires and psi make about 1,000 times more of a difference.


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## racerx (Jan 29, 2004)

*A little bit of what all of said*

Especially Fixed, shaving a few grams on all parts is the only way to add up to anything, unless you have a really heavy starting point. From your post, I will guess you are starting with a bike in the sub 18 pound mark?

The best bang for the buck is almost always is the wheel set. However, lighter is not always faster. Live in a flat area, go for deep rims for aerodynamics. Want to really go light, find a set of tubulars and the lightest tubular tire you can afford. Clincher certainly rival tubulars now, but be aware of buying light weight wheels then using heavy rim strips, heavy tubes and heavy tires.

You may be like me, I have a decent alu frame, with a carbon fork. I want this rather than a carbon frame so I added carbon aero seatpost, carbon stem and bar because I wanted to build it this way. Looks great.

I too used to weigh 135, now a big ol' 158. Not really big, but not racing weight for sure.

Be inspired and build it anyway you like. Do the wrenching yourself and ride like crazy. PS. be careful in this forum, these guys are the mad scientists of cycling...12 pound bikes?????


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## brinntache (Jan 16, 2009)

Agree on the material thing. I bought a new stem, and an EC90 stem weighed more than an EA90, at half the price.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

> From my experience, losing rider weight yields the best bang for buck. .


Why do people always mention this - it has nothing to do with the question he asked, plus it's been said 1,000,000 times already. Yea, we get it. It's not the point.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Camilo said:


> Why do people always mention this - it has nothing to do with the question he asked, plus it's been said 1,000,000 times already. Yea, we get it. It's not the point.


It often has merit behind it and the dudes _usually_ asking this are around 200lbs, but the OP is 135lbs.

Still, being so new to riding, putting money towards a good trainer, rollers, training plans, etc. will yield bigger and quicker dividends. Heck, I've only been riding with a power meter for a short time and I'm starting to think I should have made the move prior to my ultralight gear.


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## twinkles (Apr 23, 2007)

Why don't you list what parts your bike has on it?


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## AidanKeats (Jan 8, 2011)

Thanks Racerx.


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

spade2you said:


> Still, being so new to riding, putting money towards a good trainer, rollers, training plans, etc. will yield bigger and quicker dividends.


Although it's moving way off the thread topic, I very much agree with what you're saying as I've noticed the OP's other posts leading to the purchase of his bike.

What makes one think a bike (particularly a Cervelo Soloist) is in immediate need to drop weight? That thing has had so much success in racing, albeit in a different trim - point is, weight wasn't the reason for it, or the riders to find success. 

This isn't meant to be cruel, AidanKeats, but I think your sights on losing weight are a case of misguidance and less of no-prisoner, weight weenie-ism like this particular board segment more-of caters to.


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## MarshallH1987 (Jun 17, 2009)

forget other weight waving upgrades and go for wheels, that will be the biggest upgrade you make to your bike. Carbon bars/stem are nice, depending on your riding style, lightweight bars are usually more flexible than heavier/stiffer setups and can be unpleasant. Carbon seatposts can be nice and flexy and improve ride quality, but you can get alu for similar weight.

In conclusion, wheels>any thing other than coach/pmwith training plan.


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## fazzman (Mar 12, 2008)

All the little stuff adds up. On my CAAD9 i took off the carbon bar and seatpost for alu. No differance in feel that i could tell. Seat post was quite a bit lighter. Alloy bars were about the same in weight but stiffer overall. Brake calipers can shave some grams as well, check out the planet x cnc calipers. Ti skewers are inexpensive and easy upgrade. More of the carbon stems on the market are only a alloy unit with a carbon wrap so read all the details before you decide. Most of them are heavier then just a plain alloy stem. If you want to eliminate some road buzz get some good high tpi tires and run the psi based on your weight. Im 170 and run my veloflex pave tires at 100psi. Super smooth and comfortable.


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## AidanKeats (Jan 8, 2011)

Ventruck, you are absolutely right.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Ventruck said:


> Although it's moving way off the thread topic, I very much agree with what you're saying as I've noticed the OP's other posts leading to the purchase of his bike.
> 
> What makes one think a bike (particularly a Cervelo Soloist) is in immediate need to drop weight? That thing has had so much success in racing, albeit in a different trim - point is, weight wasn't the reason for it, or the riders to find success.
> 
> This isn't meant to be cruel, AidanKeats, but I think your sights on losing weight are a case of misguidance and less of no-prisoner, weight weenie-ism like this particular board segment more-of caters to.


Even as a 120lb climber, I think my weight weenie-ism purchases aren't necessarily the wisest decisions I've made. Sure, I notice the performance benefits, but I just live in an area where the climbs don't necessarily decide the outcome and most of my local races flatten out towards the finish. I can't speak for the OP's area.

With the OP being in college (at least I think), there's also the rule of not racing what you can't replace. I've done 5 races so far this year and have seen my share of destroyed bikes and gear.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

spade2you said:


> It often has merit behind it and the dudes _usually_ asking this are around 200lbs, but the OP is 135lbs.
> 
> Still, being so new to riding, putting money towards a good trainer, rollers, training plans, etc. will yield bigger and quicker dividends. Heck, I've only been riding with a power meter for a short time and I'm starting to think I should have made the move prior to my ultralight gear.


It never has merit. Everyone in the world knows it already, it's been said so many times it's a worn out cliche. He didn't ask how to lose weight off his body. This is the "Save some Weight forum", he's asking how to lose weight OFF HIS BIKE, in case that wasn't clear.

In case I missed something that you saw in his OP, he's not asking about performing better either! It may surprise you, but for most cyclists, going faster, being tougher, enduring more pain, performing better, has nothing to do with why we ride and spend money on the sport. We just love the activity, and love the machines.

I guess you just aren't familiar with this aspect of cycling: working toward a light weight bike (AKA weight-weenie-ism) is a fun and interesting end in itself. It has nothing to do with performance, value, etc. It is simply a hobby that involves building up as light weight a bike as possible, given the time and finances of the bike's owner. 

It's just fun. It's as valid an aspect of cycling as any other, for instance, racing, touring, commuting, etc. 

Again, this is the whole point of this particular forum, yet people think they have some sort of sage advice that has nothing to do with light weight components, etc. 

Yea, guys, we get it! It's cheaper to shed pounds of fat! Brilliant.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Camilo said:


> It never has merit. Everyone in the world knows it already, it's been said so many times it's a worn out cliche. He didn't ask how to lose weight off his body. This is the "Save some Weight forum", he's asking how to lose weight OFF HIS BIKE, in case that wasn't clear.
> 
> In case I missed something that you saw in his OP, he's not asking about performing better either! It may surprise you, but for most cyclists, going faster, being tougher, enduring more pain, performing better, has nothing to do with why we ride and spend money on the sport. We just love the activity, and love the machines.
> 
> ...


I'm a 120lb climber on a sub14lb bike. I think I know a little about the benefits. I am also a racer. That being said and with the OP being new to racing/riding, I think the $ is better spent on other things first, which I have already listed.


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

Camilo said:


> It never has merit. Everyone in the world knows it already, it's been said so many times it's a worn out cliche. He didn't ask how to lose weight off his body. This is the "Save some Weight forum", he's asking how to lose weight OFF HIS BIKE, in case that wasn't clear.
> 
> In case I missed something that you saw in his OP, he's not asking about performing better either! It may surprise you, but for most cyclists, going faster, being tougher, enduring more pain, performing better, has nothing to do with why we ride and spend money on the sport. We just love the activity, and love the machines.
> ...
> this is the whole point of this particular forum, yet people think they have some sort of sage advice that has nothing to do with light weight components, etc.


He's been aware of the OP's situation from other posts, hence the acknowledgement(s) of the OP being a new rider. And with the OP seemingly coming with a _need_ (not so much leisurely desire as all could assume) to drop bike weight, we've been trying to inform him otherwise.

Should've thought about that before launching a ramble. You really think spade2you would just jump in any thread in this sub-forum to tell someone not to drop weight?


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## bahueh (May 11, 2004)

what's your end point in shaving this weight?

I know guys on 18lb bikes that can tear apart a local 3/4 race. 
spend your money on a coach.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Ventruck said:


> He's been aware of the OP's situation from other posts, hence the acknowledgement(s) of the OP being a new rider. And with the OP seemingly coming with a _need_ (not so much leisurely desire as all could assume) to drop bike weight, we've been trying to inform him otherwise.
> 
> Should've thought about that before launching a ramble. You really think spade2you would just jump in any thread in this sub-forum to tell someone not to drop weight?


OK, so I'm expected to have this depth of knowledge to make a totally accurate critique like that? I'll check withh you next time.

I'm sorry if I was too harsh, but it just makes no sense to me under any circumstances to make a tired old comment like that in this forum, whose entire purpose is to simply discuss ways of lightening a bike. But that's just me. I've probably made my point and should shut up now.


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## 88 rex (Mar 18, 2008)

Wheels first


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## minutemaidman (Jun 14, 2010)

Camilo said:


> working toward a light weight bike (AKA weight-weenie-ism) is a fun and interesting end in itself. It has nothing to do with performance, value, etc. It is simply a hobby that involves building up as light weight a bike as possible, given the time and finances of the bike's owner.
> 
> It's just fun. It's as valid an aspect of cycling as any other, for instance, racing, touring, commuting, etc.


That was very well said. Thanks.


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## V3T (May 19, 2011)

88 rex said:


> Wheels first


I'd agree with this. If you are going to upgrade anything, it should be your wheelset. I don't even know what you have, but all the other stuff you are looking at (seatpost, stem, handlebar) won't make even close to as much of a difference as an awesome wheelset.


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## roadie01 (Apr 13, 2010)

Assuming that the purpose of this is to shave some weight from the bike just for the sake of shaving weight and enhancing comfort as well as performance. Also operating under the assumption that it is understood the largest performance gains are from improved fitness through proper training. I'll give my two cents as an ex LBS mechanic. 

Given a limited budget and the impression that upgrades will come in incremental pieces. Start with parts that move; pedals, wheels, shoes, tires, tubes, etc... Don't forget the rim strips if your riding clinchers, I would even consider plugs. 

Below are my recomendations for upgrades in order:
1. Tires - light weight high end tires not only save rotational weight the improve the ride quality.
2. Tubes - Don't sweat ultra light / expensive latex tubes too much. Tubes are meant to be disposable, how ever buy standard or lighweight tubes if they are only a couple bucks more than standard. Stay away from heavier thorn resistant or "Slime" tubes. 
3. Rim tape or plugs - Rubber rim strips are heavier than cloth and don't adhear to the rim which could cause flats if the tube shifts inside the tire. 
4. Wheels - This should be your most expensive upgrade whether your upgrading to a set of tubulars or high end clinchers. This is weight you will most definately feel. Also consider aerodynamics if your tempo pace is above 20 MPH on the flats. 
5. Shoes - A comfortable light weight pair of shoes will keep your feet comfy and require less energy to keep rotating. 
6. Pedals - Same principle as with the shoes, this is rotational weight and at less than 180# you're safe with any pedal that you like. (remember to account for the weight of the cleat) Keep in mind if you do not have strong ankles a wider platform pedal such as Shimano or Look will be more comfortable on long rides. 
7. Bolts - Replace all Steel bolts with aluminum or titanium. To validate check the weight difference between Sram Red and Sram Force Brakes, the calipers are the same, only the bolts and finish are different. You can also add a little "bling" for not much cash, a custom engraved aluminum stem cap and bolt, color matching chain ring and deraileur pully bolts look nice. IMHO


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## easyridernyc (Jan 10, 2008)

135, that's light

dont forget about the group. appreciable differences in weight can affect output, no doubt. not cheap, necessarily, but do-able enough once you start getting into grams

otherwise, homie,

its got to be the wheels.


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

*no, but...*

I'll take your question on its face about weight and not get worried about whether it "matters" to have a lighter overall bike.

carbon bars, stems, posts aren't appreciably lighter than their aluminum counterparts until you get to the "scary light" stuff that isn't made by any of the major component manufacturers for a reason.

But, there is, percentage-wise, a big differnce between a 2014, plain-gauge aluminum bar, and, a 7000-series butted high-end alu bar. 

Stems are less of a difference; seatposts you don't get butting but you do get thinner walls, and, of course, you can cut down to avoid extra length. Pro tip is to make sure you have at least 2 times the diameter of the post in the frame, though I do 3 -- and to chamfer the new leading edge after you make the cut.

Add in these to a real-world light saddle instead of a heavy OE one, and you're talking about... maybe a pound of weight.

For whatever that's worth to you.


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## captain stubbing (Mar 30, 2011)

often carbon stems, handlebars and seat post actually weight more than their alu counterparts at twice the price.....this could get quite expensive for minimal weight loss.

as to their vibration damping qualities, well that point is often disputed (i didn't notice any difference between my carbon/alu seatposst) however reducing your tires psi by 5 would have more of an effect (and its free)....at 135 pounds u should prob be running them at about 90 i think.

btw, at your weight u could run a more aggressive light weight race tire (conti gp4000s, schwalbe ultremo, michelin pro3).....the less u weight the less puncture protection u need.

but yeah, save up and upgrade tires and wheels....wouldn't bother with the rest.


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