# A bike for century rides



## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

Seems the most recommended are steel frames with a carbon fork or full carbon rides.
Full carbon bikes are pricey and the older steel frame bikes usually need some upgrades.
Not sure which way I want to go but the carbon bikes are out of my price range unless I find used. I started looking into bikes but keep going around as to what I should be looking for?
When I go into a shop they point me right at the $1800 dollar bikes like that`s my only option.

Just curious to what people here might recommend for a couple (husband and wife) that want to start doing longer distance rides.We only have mountain bikes at this time.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roblee said:


> Seems the most recommended are steel frames with a carbon fork or full carbon rides.
> Full carbon bikes are pricey and the older steel frame bikes usually need some upgrades.
> Not sure which way I want to go but the carbon bikes are out of my price range unless I find used. I started looking into bikes but keep going around as to what I should be looking for?
> When I go into a shop they point me right at the $1800 dollar bikes like that`s my only option.
> ...


I would advise you to focus less on frame materials and more on the bikes geometry - in terms of both fit and how geo affects ride quality, because it does.

For instance, if you want an endurance bike, look for slacker head tube angles/ longer fork rakes, because together they'll get you more trail, which 1) tends to smooth the ride and 2) stabilizes steering, making it more predictable. Next, are longer chainstays, because they'll stretch the wheelbase and further smooth the ride. Same goes for a slacker seat tube angle - and larger tires running at lower pressures. 

Notice, thus far, no mention of frame materials. 

Point is, you can get a lower cost bike with geo more suitable for centuries or a higher cost bike less suitable. So there's no direct correlation between cost and comfort - or the bike meeting your needs. 

My advice is to visit some shops and discuss your intended uses and price range. If you think relaxed/ endurance bikes are something you want to focus on, make mention of it. But I'd still test ride some other (race) bike, because the lines sometimes blur and you want to expose yourself to both types - in different brands/ models, _then_ make an educated purchasing decision.


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## g-dawg (Jan 30, 2009)

You'll want something that is comfortable to you. I'm fine with my aluminum frame bike, with slightly more aggressive frame. "If it feels comfortable , you'll ride longer." PJ352 has some good advice on where to start.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

I just did a century on a Tarmac. No problem whatsoever. Also have a Secteur. Sure that would be fine too albeit slower. 

Bottom line. Whatever lots and is comfortable will work. That May be a relaxed geo or an aggressive one. Carbon or aluminum. Test a lot of bikes.


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## MikeBiker (Mar 9, 2003)

Zillions of people have done centuries on steel and aluminum frames. What is important is to have a bike that is comfortable for you. I've got a full carbon bike and a steel bike with an aluminum fork. Both are comfortable for me and either is century worthy.

I've know people who have done centuries on mountain bikes with knobby tires and full suspensions. Not something that I would want to do.

As long as you have enough fitness and time on the bike, the bike itself is not a limiting factor.


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## Minabud (Sep 6, 2012)

Not sure what your budget is, but the Trek Domane 2.0 is $1300, aluminum frame, carbon fork and endurance geometry. I just bought the 4.5 and it is so comfy it should be illegal ;P


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## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

Minabud said:


> Not sure what your budget is, but the Trek Domane 2.0 is $1300, aluminum frame, carbon fork and endurance geometry. I just bought the 4.5 and it is so comfy it should be illegal ;P


That`s one I have been looking at problem for me is I need to pay for two bikes.I could however put some smoother tread tires on the wife`s mtn bike and get me a new bike...nah might not be a smart option..?

I have also thought about getting a cx bike and running road tread?


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## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

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I`m seriously considering these for his n hers bikes for us.$700 no tax or shipping with 105 components.
Alum w/carbon fork, decent enough other parts.Wheels probably suck? I think they would be good enough for a few years and to get started road riding. Any thoughts on these? yes- no- maybe- kung foo


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roblee said:


> Save up to 60% off Shimano equipped Road Bikes - Windsor Fens Shimano Equipped Bicycles Save up to 60% off List price
> 
> I`m seriously considering these for his n hers bikes for us.$700 no tax or shipping with 105 components.
> Alum w/carbon fork, decent enough other parts.Wheels probably suck? I think they would be good enough for a few years and to get started road riding. Any thoughts on these? yes- no- maybe- kung foo
> ...


The problem with buying online for a first road bike is that you'll lose sizing/ fitting assistance, the ability to test ride the bikes beforehand and (unless you're a competent wrencher/ fitter), will end up paying a LBS for final assembly, tuning, fit/ tweaks to fit, stem swaps.... essentially, you get a bike in a box and are on your own when buying online. 

All things considered, I'd advise against it for this first purchase.


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## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

I`ve always worked on my bikes and just did a full mtn frame up build this last year,so I`m not going to have build problems but may need help getting it dialed in.I have wrenched on my bikes since I was a kid and have most of the tools needed. I do understand the benefit of having a LBS fitment though.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roblee said:


> I`ve always worked on my bikes and just did a full mtn frame up build this last year,so I`m not going to have build problems but may need help getting it dialed in.I have wrenched on my bikes since I was a kid and have most of the tools needed. I do understand the benefit of having a LBS fitment though.


Points taken, and they matter. But sizing comes before a fitting and for a fitting to go well, the bike has to be correctly sized. Guess wrong and the bike either goes back (at your cost) or you settle and 'make it fit'. 

There are proponents of both LBS's and online purchases and the topic has been debated ad nauseam here on RBR. Bottom line is it's your money and it's going to be your bike, so ultimately your decision. I would advise caution.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

roblee said:


> I`ve always worked on my bikes and just did a full mtn frame up build this last year,so I`m not going to have build problems but may need help getting it dialed in.I have wrenched on my bikes since I was a kid and have most of the tools needed. I do understand the benefit of having a LBS fitment though.


While this is very helpful, you can't dial in frame size.

I rode an aluminum frame bike for two full seasons including 2 centuries. If anything hurt it was my rear end, because 30 miles of the ride was on very bumpy roadway. It had nothing to do with the frame material.

Later on when you have cash again you can buy a loose frame and move over all of the parts if you want to try it.

Tips for improving comfort:
Carbon fork helps, so does running 25mm tires at lower pressure. You can run two wraps of bar tape or those Fizik gel insert pads under the tape. Nice stiff shoes that fit well. Fit helps above all.


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## Stockli Boy (Jun 17, 2002)

Go to a local bike shop that does fitting and start there. The best shops do a fit to determine the bike for you, rather than picking a bike and making it work. Details like tire size and pressure, fork, seatpost material, bars, tape, etc need to come after the frame fit is selected.

The fit is more important than the frame material. Since you're interested in centuries, don't cut corners on saddles. The LBS should have a range of saddles you can test. There is a saddle for every a$$ and an a$$ for every saddle.

Also, find the right chamois. each one will fit differently and you will find one that is best for your anatomy. Shop around and be picky.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Stockli Boy said:


> Go to a local bike shop that does fitting and start there. The best shops do a fit to determine the bike for you, rather than picking a bike and making it work. Details like tire size and pressure, fork, seatpost material, bars, tape, etc need to come after the frame fit is selected.
> 
> The fit is more important than the frame material. Since you're interested in centuries, don't cut corners on saddles. The LBS should have a range of saddles you can test. There is a saddle for every a$$ and an a$$ for every saddle.
> 
> Also, find the right chamois. each one will fit differently and you will find one that is best for your anatomy. Shop around and be picky.


This. 

I'd also suggest a good bike fitting like the Specialized BG system. 100 miles is an extensive amount of time to spend on a bike. Any deficiencies in your bike fit will be magnified on a 100 mile ride.


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## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

Very good suggestions and much appreciated.I do have a local Specialized dealer that offers the BG system.It`s pricey? Every shop I have walked into tells me I need a 54cm frame or a med if so sized.I am 5`-8.5" with a 30 inch inseam. My thinking was if I stayed with the major brands or even the same models the sizing would be acceptable to work with.
I was just hoping to get a bit more bike by buying used.If I go the lbs route I am forced to buy one of the lower end bikes in order to afford them both. I could always ride for a year or so then upgrade the shifters and R der.if needed.I`d rather have a Sora equipped bike that fit right than Ultegra that did not.

The last road bikes we had were a Trek 560 for me and a 500 for the wife.Should explain why I`m lost with the new bikes.She always seems to be comfy on her bikes but mine are a different story I did everything I could think of fore aft seat adjust and height and different stem lengths to make that bike work and I could never not have tingling sore hands after 30 mins of riding.I`m glad they offer fitting now days back then it was stand over the frame ok seats a bit high ok there ya go,Cya.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roblee said:


> Very good suggestions and much appreciated.I do have a local Specialized dealer that offers the BG system.It`s pricey? Every shop I have walked into tells me I need a 54cm frame or a med if so sized.I am 5`-8.5" with a 30 inch inseam. My thinking was if I stayed with the major brands or even the same models the sizing would be acceptable to work with.
> I was just hoping to get a bit more bike by buying used.If I go the lbs route I am forced to buy one of the lower end bikes in order to afford them both. I could always ride for a year or so then upgrade the shifters and R der.if needed.I`d rather have a Sora equipped bike that fit right than Ultegra that did not.
> 
> The last road bikes we had were a Trek 560 for me and a 500 for the wife.Should explain why I`m lost with the new bikes.She always seems to be comfy on her bikes but mine are a different story I did everything I could think of fore aft seat adjust and height and different stem lengths to make that bike work and I could never not have tingling sore hands after 30 mins of riding.I`m glad they offer fitting now days back then it was stand over the frame ok seats a bit high ok there ya go,Cya.


Yes, the Specialized BG FIT is pricey, but it's a pro fit. JMO, but this being your first road bike in awhile, consistent with my previous posts, once you've shopped for your preferred LBS along with your preferred bike, I suggest working with that shop on getting sized, then opting for their standard fitting (included in the cost of the new bike) and logging some miles. 

As you build base miles and fitness improves, your fit will evolve and tweaks to the initial fit will likely be necessary. After that's done and a period of time passes, _maybe then_ reassess your need for a more extensive pro fit. Some cyclists (sans pain/ discomfort) opt for one simply because they can afford it and want to see how it affects their performance. Others, to remedy some area(s) of discomfort that can't seem to be remedied by more traditional methods.

Re: the sizing comments made to you by LBS's, hopefully, they were made based on what those shops carried. I say this because one companies 54 is anothers 47, or 49, so (for example) buying a Rocky Mountain Oxygen in a 54 would most likely result in a too large frame for you. Reason being, they base their frame sizes on seat tube length.

From what you've offered re: your fit (or lack thereof) of your previous road bike, I'm surprised that you're willing to take the chance buying online. On the plus side, I completely agree with your remark that you'd rather have a Sora equipped bike that fit than an Ultegra equipped bike that didn't, and I log in excess of 6k miles annually.

Fit really does matter most.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> if you want an endurance bike, look for slacker head tube angles/ longer fork rakes, because together they'll get you more trail.


Woopsie, longer fork rate gives us less trail. Longer fork rake could potentially cancel out slacker head angle induced longer trail.


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## TonyV1 (Aug 7, 2012)

PJ has it right. I too have been using the old stand over the bike ('77 Fuji) and got back into cycling last summer. Had to stop after getting up to 40 mile rides. Frame was size 63, I'm 6' tall. I eventually lost all strenght in my left hand & had to stop. Went through same thoughts as you since I too am handy. Went to 3 LBS, and found I was either a 56 or 58 frame size depending on the mfg. So....buying on line is pure guess work. My goal was to ride a century, which I will do this coming weekend. After trying 5 different bikes, I settled on the Canondale Synapse with alum frame & 105 group. I was then fitted for about 2 hours for no extra charge! I spent $1400. I did however needed to purchase a new seat since the longer rides (60+) started to really hurt (yes I have good cycling bib's as well). I am very pleased with the Synapse. My advise is to test drive as many bikes as you can, and purchase @ your LBS. You will not regret it.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Mike T. said:


> Woopsie, longer fork rate gives us less trail. Longer fork rake could potentially cancel out slacker head angle induced longer trail.


Good catch. I'm choosing to plead nolo contendere.. :wink5:


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## roblee (Sep 10, 2012)

I`m going to buy new from a lbs.I have Trek, Specialized and Cannondale to choose from.Should be able to find something that works.They all seem to get love around here.
I will ride them all and buy the one that feels the best.

Just did 50 miles on the knobby tires today a road bike is gonna be so sweet.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roblee said:


> *I`m going to buy new from a lbs*.I have Trek, Specialized and Cannondale to choose from.Should be able to find something that works.They all seem to get love around here.
> I will ride them all and buy the one that feels the best.
> 
> Just did 50 miles on the knobby tires today a road bike is gonna be so sweet.


Long term, I think you'll be glad you did. If possible, keep us posted on your progress. It's always interesting to get firsthand rider impressions, and it and the resultant dialogue provides useful info to other noobs.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> Good catch. I'm choosing to plead nolo contendere.. :wink5:


Oh heck I wouldn't do that in a million years


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## seacoaster (May 9, 2010)

As PJ pointed out, wider tires at lower pressure will give you a better ride, so pay attention to size and pressure on your test rides. This year's Synapse has 25 mm tires stardard, not sure about the others.

FWIW, I have an aluminum Synapse 105 with 25 mm tires, and am quite happy with the ride. When I bought it 23 mm were standard, but I had the LBS swap them for the 25s. As best my butt can remember the aluminum Synapse with 25s rode as well as the carbon Synapse with 23s.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

Test rides are iffy at best. How much time is spent to "fit" a bike for a test ride? I rarely see more than 5 minutes to get the saddle height close. Then, how long is the test ride? A parking lot ride does not tell you much.

One can get the frame size within a proper fit range by using any number of the on-line fit calculators. From there one can look at the frame type for their application.

If one is going to look at a "new" bike online, why not consider a used bike. My ride would have cost me 4 times as much, or more, if I had gone new.

BTW, I am all in for the 25's vs 23's. Your butt will thank you.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> Test rides are iffy at best. How much time is spent to "fit" a bike for a test ride? I rarely see more than 5 minutes to get the saddle height close. Then, how long is the test ride? A parking lot ride does not tell you much.


Given this scenario, I can see why you'd place little importance on test rides. The reputable shops take more time and care setting up bikes of interest for test rides, and encourage longer rides - out on the roads. 



Blue CheeseHead said:


> One can get the frame size within a proper fit range by using any number of the on-line fit calculators. From there one can look at the frame type for their application.


I disagree. The _best_ online calculators will do is provide a range of fit parameters that may or may not work for a given individual. At their worst (and more typically, IME) they'll serve to confuse the 'uninitiated'.

'Uninitiated' meaning lacking a full understanding of geo numbers and how relatively small changes can affect fit, ride and handling. This can apply to noobs, experienced cyclists and racers, IMO/E.

Working one on one with a competent fitter will have a cyclist sized and closer to a good fit in ~20 minutes. 

FWIW, I agree with the remainder of your post.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> Test rides are iffy at best. How much time is spent to "fit" a bike for a test ride? I rarely see more than 5 minutes to get the saddle height close. Then, how long is the test ride? A parking lot ride does not tell you much.


Agreed on a parking lot ride won't tell you much. The LBS I purchased my Domane from encouraged taking it out for a couple hours. I took a couple different Domanes out, different versions and different sizes before deciding. The 2 hour rides gave met plenty of saddle time to get a feel for the bike and make a well informed purchase decision.


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