# Tiagra price range vs. 105 price range: what's the real difference?



## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

I'm a Cross Country Mountain bike racer. And yet I've never owned a road bike. I train on both my Full Suspension and my old hardtail with slick tires. I am thinking that it is time that I get a road bike. Now I've been into mountain bikes long enough to know that you basically get what you pay for whatever company you go with (having said that I ride for an LBS and can get a discount on Giant and Cannondale road bikes so i'm mostly looking Defy, synapse or CAAD9). So what i'm really wanting to know is, what is the real life difference between the two price points. I don't know road biking, so I would like to hear from someone who has maybe ridden both a bike at that $1200-1400 (at least that's around what they go for in Canada) tiagra price point, and the 105 group price point? I know I am getting an upgrade in drivetrain and wheels from say the caad 9 6 to the 5. But what does that mean in terms of feel and ride quality on a 60km ride? 

I'm asking because my wife is basically allowing me to spend about $1400-1500 on a road bike. Now I can get the caad9 6, synpase 6, or defy 2 at that price point, and that would keep me in good with the wife. But the guy at my LBS was really trying to talk me into the caad9 5 ($300 more), and telling me how much better value you get for those $300. Now I trust that he isn't lying. But I'm not sure if I really need that. He's a racer. I don't plan on racing road. I just want to use it in Spring, or rainy days when the singletrack, trails are muddy and/or if i want to get some long base miles. 

It seems like either the Defy 2, Caad9 6, or synapse 6 will be all i need to crank out some base miles in the spring. But of course there is a big part of me that wants to scrape together an extra $300 for the 105 group and better wheels. 

Any suggestions or stories on the real difference between these price points?

Thank you.


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## nealric (Jul 5, 2007)

I think the wheelset differences are usually more noticeable than the difference between Tiagra and 105. 

Light wheels will benefit you just the same as they do on a mountain bike- better acceleration from less mass to accelerate. The groupset difference is mostly in weight, which won't be nearly as noticeable. The lower model bike will be fine for training, but you might find (like I did) that you end up liking road enough that you give your road bike more love than your mountain bike. Personally, I went for Ultegra (and a light weight wheelset) for my first road bike, and I am very glad I did.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Using your criteria:
_*what does that mean in terms of feel and ride quality on a 60km ride? *_
I'd answer you in two words. Not much.

Save the $$ and if you _really_ want to improve a bikes feel and ride quality invest in some high TPI count tires and inflate them to match your weight, riding style and road conditions. If the frame/ fork will accomodate them, go from 23c to 25c for a slightly better ride. 

Both you and your wife will be very happy.


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## millman (Mar 7, 2010)

I'm in the same boat. An XC guy buying a road bike. What I compare it to is the Deore vs. the XT components. Differences in weight, durability, performance and price. But what sold me on the 105 vs the Tiagara, was the durability factor. I recently replaced my M586 Octlink crank on my hard tail after 1.5 year with a SLX. I hope to get a few years out of the SLX. I weigh 235 and wanted the best bang for my buck. I ended up with a 2010 Trek 2.3 with full 105 components - drive train, brakes and shifters, instead of the Synapse 6 with the Tiagara. I spent the 300$ difference now instead of much more later. If you do your own bike maint, you can upgrade later when you need to. I would rather ride than work on the bike.

Millman


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## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

thank you for all the advice. It is a tough decision. It is made especially tough because i bought my first mountain bike 1/2 way through the season for about $900, and after only 1/2 a season i got totally and completely hooked and began racing the next season. i bought a new $2800 bike only a year after my first bike. I think I know more about my goals now, but I just don't want to cheap out and save money and regret it, because I want to get use out of this bike for years to come, not be dreaming of replacing it 6 months after buying it. 

Thank you for your input. 

Millman - Now I've heard conflicting stories. I know a guy who races cross, who told me to get the tiagra one. He intentionally bought a full tiagra drivetrain for his really nice cross bike, because he said it's so durable (and cheaper to replace if he destroys a derailleur).


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Some thoughts.*

There's also an image angle to this: Shimano 105 has been marketed for so long as the entry-level *racing* component group, that riding anything below 105 can get you stuck into the recreational- or worse, casual rider bracket by those who have a tendency to judge people by their gear. It's all very irrational and shouldn't be, but it does exist and, I suppose, accounts for a good number of 105 component sales.

As to durability and replacement costs: there is something to that. To make something lighter (as 105 components are compared to Tiagra) but not super-expensive, you may need to change some design features at the cost of durability. And if you are going to destroy stuff in full-out racing, it does make economic sense to get the cheapest components that will do the job. Of course, once you start placing in the top 5, it all changes: only the best will do.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

I have to agree with everyone here to some degree. They all have valid points, but here's a good reason to strongly consider 105: Training miles. I have owned both groups and 105 is noticeable smoother shifting and tends to hold a tune up longer with more abuse. My last Tiagra bike was upgraded after 13,000 miles on the Tiagra components. Nothing was wrong with the components but I just decided to upgrade. The 105 shifted better (mainly because of the closer gearing of the 10 speed rear I believe) and you get a 10 speed rear as opposed to the Tiagra's 9 speed rear. Tiagra is a good group forthe average cyclist but if you demand alot and put on a lot of miles, go with 105. I don't know why 105 is considered the entry-level race group. It's been around for decades and is really the workhorse of the Shimano line- meaning it will probably outlast Ultegra and Dura Ace to some degree. It is a heavy-duty version of those two groups. I used to race on 105 back in the late 80's through the mid 90's. Never had an issue with that group. Anyway, ask yourself if you may consider component upgrading in the future. If not, stick with Tiagra. If you think there's a chance you will outgrow Tiagra, go with 105. I paid $750 to upgrade my Tiagra bike to 105 when I could've paid half that cost if I had bought the 105 bike at purchase time. BTW, considering you're looking at $1500 for a bike, have you looked at the Felt F75? It retails for around $1500 with 105 components, full carbon fork and aluminum frame with carbon rear. Check out the reviews on the F75. You won't be disappointed. I know a few people who were able to get their F75's for around $1300-1350. One of my riding buddies even bought his for $1250. Nevermind, I just realized that you said that you ride for an LBS.


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## fontarin (Mar 28, 2009)

millman said:


> I'm in the same boat. An XC guy buying a road bike. What I compare it to is the Deore vs. the XT components. Differences in weight, durability, performance and price. But what sold me on the 105 vs the Tiagara, was the durability factor. I recently replaced my M586 Octlink crank on my hard tail after 1.5 year with a SLX. I hope to get a few years out of the SLX. I weigh 235 and wanted the best bang for my buck. I ended up with a 2010 Trek 2.3 with full 105 components - drive train, brakes and shifters, instead of the Synapse 6 with the Tiagara. I spent the 300$ difference now instead of much more later. If you do your own bike maint, you can upgrade later when you need to. I would rather ride than work on the bike.
> 
> Millman


i wouldn't really buy into the durability factor argument. I have a Sora groupset on my commuter bike, and it's probably given me the least trouble out of any over the years.


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## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

thanks for all your opinions. I just went back to the LBS, and talked to the owner. Because I race for the MTB club, and am a frequent customer, he offered to basically knock $200 off the price to get me the CAAD9 5 at only $90 more than the CAA9 6 normally costs. So that kind of made the decision for me. 

In reality the decision kind of depends on my wife, but $90 is nothing.


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## millman (Mar 7, 2010)

yes I understand. In MTB, the SLX groupset is a tank, but as they said above, it doesn't quite shift or pedel like the XT group. I'm glad you got some $$ off that always helps make the decision easier. As you know from your MTB buys, it's easier and sometimes cheaper to buy now and not have to upgrade later. and its better to not have the nagging voice in your head saying "I should have spent the extra $$". I pick up my 2.3 tomorrow. I hope this will help me train for my first XC race in April, a nice 15miler on mostly seasonal roads and a small section of single track. Have fun and don't let the roadies give you too much grief when you use your hydro pack.

Millman


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## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

ha ha. I don't use a hydro-pack unless I spend a whole day in the mountains. Although they might laugh at my "leg-warmers." Even as an XC racer, i don't shave my legs.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

Get a 2009 Trek 2.3 with carbon stays and 105 components. Pay under $1500 easy.

Trek took out the carbon stays because it was TOO competative with their $2000 MORE expensive bikes. You can find them through Google and get one shipped to your local Trek dealer. It's a steal.


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## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't mind a trek because I ride a Gary Fisher MTB (same family) but I'm not a fan of my local Trek dealer. They have poor service and that's a big deal to me.


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## brinntache (Jan 16, 2009)

I refuse to touch Sora parts again (mine wouldn't work in the cold, werent durable). Tiagra didn't impress me much. if you are actually a rider (be it road or other) you will notice the quality difference. Shimano has made sure that there are reasons to spend more. Get 105.


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## Money D (Mar 9, 2002)

I'd look for a used bike. If you know what you're looking for you could get much better than tiagra/105 for $1400. I just got an '05 felt f55 w/ dura-ace for $999 in great shape.


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## old_fuji (Mar 16, 2009)

Is there any place online to purchase the Tiagra groupset?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

old_fuji said:


> Is there any place online to purchase the Tiagra groupset?


IME it's hard to find as a groupset, but if you don't mind shopping for individual parts and adding to a 'cart', Jenson has most components. The shifters go in and out of stock, so I suggest calling about them.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

dana109 said:


> Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't mind a trek because I ride a Gary Fisher MTB (same family) but I'm not a fan of my local Trek dealer. They have poor service and that's a big deal to me.


Find another Trek dealer within driving distance.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

I've had both the Tiagra and the 105. The 105 is the winner by a mile.

Unless you are a really competative racer, you'll never "need" better than the 105 groupset.


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## tomcho (Jan 30, 2010)

old_fuji said:


> Is there any place online to purchase the Tiagra groupset?



Ribbles has all the Shimano groupsets....

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/groupset.asp?action=showframes&sub=conf_GS&type=RIBMO

Tiagra double is $334. I pretty much bought my entire Ultegra set from Ribbles, nothing but good experiences with them.


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

good call on working on that price on that 9-5, my LBS has those for $1400 marked, so I figured your store would probably work with you a bit on them


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## dana109 (May 1, 2009)

Are you in the U.S. or Canada? Because up here in Canada I've never seen CAAD9 5 cheaper than $1700.


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## tommyrhodes (Aug 19, 2009)

I've only got about 1,000 miles on my tiagra rear derailur and I HATE IT!!! At first Ithought I was just not tuning it correctly, but even after the lbs did their free tuneup at 700 miles it still shifts horrily. After shifting frequently have to "toy" the shifter to get it to shift down. can be a real Pain the butt in a paceline heading up a rapidly increasing hill. Def a case of you get what you pay for, also, I have the defy 2 and mine came with sora front drailur.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

old_fuji said:


> Is there any place online to purchase the Tiagra groupset?


I just sold mine on eBay for $250.


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## Chexcaliber (Apr 24, 2009)

You won' t regret the CAAD9 5. Very good components and okay wheels on a great frame.


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## Trek2.3 (Sep 13, 2009)

tommyrhodes said:


> I've only got about 1,000 miles on my tiagra rear derailur and I HATE IT!!! .


Interestingly, on the models that use the tiagra group, Trek substitutes a 105 rear derailleur.


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## old_fuji (Mar 16, 2009)

Trek2.3 said:


> I just sold mine on eBay for $250.


Dang, good deal! That's assuming the parts were in good condition


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Trek2.3 said:


> Interestingly, on the models that use the tiagra group, Trek substitutes a 105 rear derailleur.


I'd be curious as to which model that would be, because that's not the case here:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/1_series/15/


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## drmayer (Mar 24, 2009)

I've got a sora/tiagra rd component mix and think it shifts just fine. The thumb trigger on the sora shifters is probably the only downfall, but that is solved with the tiagra shifters. I'll say that i've never ridden any other components on the road spectrum, but i can't see moving up in price making a huge leap in performance.

The big difference for me going to 105 would be to get 10 speed.


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

dana109 said:


> Are you in the U.S. or Canada? Because up here in Canada I've never seen CAAD9 5 cheaper than $1700.


there's our issue! it's a USA/Canada thing!


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## qatarbhoy (Aug 17, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> I'd be curious as to which model that would be, because that's not the case here:
> http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/1_series/15/


I've got a 2009 2.1 which has Tiagra front and 105 rear derailers. The front mech hasn't caused any issues once I got the hang of road bike shifting (coming from MTBs) but the 105 has taken quite a lot of dialing in and still had a few ghost shifts under strain on today's ride (far fewer than before, though): it might just be cable stretch or my learning curve, so I hope it settles down.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

qatarbhoy said:


> *I've got a 2009 2.1 which has Tiagra front and 105 rear derailers*. The front mech hasn't caused any issues once I got the hang of road bike shifting (coming from MTBs) but the 105 has taken quite a lot of dialing in and still had a few ghost shifts under strain on today's ride (far fewer than before, though): it might just be cable stretch or my learning curve, so I hope it settles down.


Yes, I know that Trek along with several other brands have the same specs for '09, but the poster didn't specify the years, so I inquired. Because of economic conditions Trek along with most other brands de-spec'd their lines for 2010.

The ghost shifting you mention can be caused by a couple of things, but cable stretch (as much as they actually stretch nowadays) is the easiest to correct. If you can't dial out the ghost shifting I suggest bringing the bike to your LBS for further diagnosis if you're still covered. These services vary by LBS.


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## qatarbhoy (Aug 17, 2009)

I was very glad to get an 09. The 2010 specs (10-speed 105 aside) don't compare, especially without the carbon seatstays.


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