# TRP Hy Rd or Spyre SLC??



## Velonautic (Jun 27, 2009)

In search of a good roady all arounder that will allow me to roll 28's or 32's I have sprung for a Lynsky Cooper CX. I am planning on moving my Record 10 group with it's compact crank over. This is my first foray into road discs having really enjoyed the XT group on my mountain bike. 
All the research says either should be good although I am a little concerned about the "long" pull on the HyRd's even thought the hydraulic action sounds like it would be a plus.

Any thoughts or experience that may help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Wetworks (Aug 10, 2012)

Velonautic said:


> In search of a good roady all arounder that will allow me to roll 28's or 32's I have sprung for a Lynsky Cooper CX. I am planning on moving my Record 10 group with it's compact crank over. This is my first foray into road discs having really enjoyed the XT group on my mountain bike.
> All the research says either should be good although I am a little concerned about the "long" pull on the HyRd's even thought the hydraulic action sounds like it would be a plus.
> 
> Any thoughts or experience that may help is greatly appreciated.


I have the HyRds on my Tarmac. They are very good calipers, but the long pull you described does take some getting used to.

EDIT- I've tried over the past off-season to get a better feel for adjusting them, but finally gave up after reading the article on Bike Rumor. When I take in the bike for a beginning-of-the-season once over, I plan to mention the brakes and ask what can be done. I'm reasonably sure my cables are a bit too straight, leading to the mushiness.


----------



## Migen21 (Oct 28, 2014)

They aren't perfect, but the HyRd is a far better experience for a mechanically activated brake than actual mechanical rotors. It's not even close.

I've seen some hacks on youtube to change the pull angle, but i'm not thrilled about the idea of taking a hack saw to the actuator arms.

The brakes are great. They do take a little getting used to, but no more than any other brake sytsem would. 

It's a sealed system, so no bleeding required - Are they as nice as a high end hydraulic system? No, probably not, but as mechanical/cable activated disc brakes go, they really can't be beat, especially for the price.


----------



## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

My thoughts are go full hydraulic, the mechanical/hydraulic blends aren't in the same league.


----------



## rcb78 (Jun 15, 2008)

Make sure you're running compressionless housing regardless of what actual brake you're using. ESPECIALLY if you have a long housing run or full length housing. The best trick for the HyRds is to overfill them. It's a trick some mechanics do when bleeding brakes where you pressurize the syringe after bleeding and hold the lever to lock the extra fluid in, then close up before releasing. I never found the travel to be an issue even when setup 100% stock. I like a late engagement and as long as I'm capable of locking a tire before the lever bottoms I'm good. My rim brakes are setup the same way, there's more power to be found the closer the lever gets to the bars. It's a leverage thing, both in the brakes and in your fingers themselves.


----------



## Lelandjt (Sep 11, 2008)

Wow, no votes yet for the Spyres? By far the best cable disc calipers! Much easier to set up with just the amount of lever stroke you want and no pad rub. I've worked on many examples of both. The ONLY benefit of the HyRd is the auto pad wear compensation but really all that does is make you not realize your pads are nearly shot. With the Spyre you turn the pad adjusters as they wear and the lever stroke gets longer which forces you to visually inspect the pads.


----------



## Velonautic (Jun 27, 2009)

Thank you everyone for the feedback. I am going to try the Hy Rd's. I will be going with the compressionless cable housing for sure. Time will tell if I end up going with the caliper lever mod to shorten the lever throw. Stay tuned for an update


----------



## zephxiii (Nov 22, 2013)

I actually got a chance to test out the Spyres on a buddies Crux just recently. 

He complained about lack of power with the original pads and after Barry-Roubaix he went to sintered since the originals were toast from the race. He said they were a lot better and was happy with them. 

I managed to hop on his bike after the following race to try them. Well...They def don't have the stopping power of the Shimano CX-77s on my bike, or the lower level Shimano mechs I had before that. Good enough to slow down with but not the dropping anchors feel of Shimanos. 

Perhaps the dual action cuts some of the power? 

The only downsides to the Shimanos is...Damn they ugly. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## BlazingPedals (Apr 4, 2013)

Lelandjt said:


> Wow, no votes yet for the Spyres? By far the best cable disc calipers! Much easier to set up with just the amount of lever stroke you want and no pad rub. I've worked on many examples of both. The ONLY benefit of the HyRd is the auto pad wear compensation but really all that does is make you not realize your pads are nearly shot. With the Spyre you turn the pad adjusters as they wear and the lever stroke gets longer which forces you to visually inspect the pads.


I've got Spyres and like them a lot. Much better than the old BB7s I had previously. But I have no experience with the Hy/Rd so don't know how they compare.


----------



## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Bump.

I've run Spyres on 160mm rotors for a little over the year and have loved them so far. Pad adjustment when necessary is easy, 3mm allen is all you need. I like the idea of dual-piston as it should have less bending effect on the rotor. At the end of the day, stopping power has been great.

However, I'm intrigued by the Hy/Rd and considering since you can get new take-offs for a great price on eBay. Even though I mention above that Spyre pad adjustment is easy, I'm interested to see how hydraulic self-adjustment works. One thing that does worry me is the long lever throw talk... is it really that noticeable?

Noticeably better modulation or not?

At the end of the day, cost isn't an issue for me as much as performance, maintenance, and the extra ~100g Hy/Rds would add.


----------

