# SRAM lever throw w/ BB7 disc brakes?



## andy13 (Aug 22, 2008)

I have seen some discussion of setting up SRAM levers and BB7 road discs and many are saying it's difficult to get setup w/o excess lever throw being needed for braking?
I was thinking of building a disc bike for my wife w/ this setup and this concerns me w/ her smaller hands. I know I can wait for hydraulics but I am not looking forward to the price, and I have enjoyed the simplicity of BB7s on mtn. bikes. I'm also not fond of SRAM hydraulic mtn. brakes. 
Any real world experience would be appreciated.
thanks,
andy


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## nOOky (Mar 20, 2009)

I have the Apex shifters with BB5's, set up properly I have no problems. I did "brake" them in by setting the pad up close to the disk and repeatedly mashing the lever hard on purpose a few times, then I reset them and they have stayed good for 500 miles so far.
Even my low end brakes have all the stopping power I need, modulation isn't excellent, but it's okay.


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## the mayor (Jul 8, 2004)

I have a bike with Apex levers and BB7 road calipers that is fine.
I have a bike with Ultegra levers and BB7 mtb calipers that is fine.
The MTB calipers work better than the road calipers with the Ultegra levers.
I am going to try the mtb calipers with the apex levers when I get a chance.


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## jared_j (Jun 11, 2009)

andy13 said:


> I have seen some discussion of setting up SRAM levers and BB7 road discs and many are saying it's difficult to get setup w/o excess lever throw being needed for braking?
> I was thinking of building a disc bike for my wife w/ this setup and this concerns me w/ her smaller hands. I know I can wait for hydraulics but I am not looking forward to the price, and I have enjoyed the simplicity of BB7s on mtn. bikes. I'm also not fond of SRAM hydraulic mtn. brakes.
> Any real world experience would be appreciated.
> thanks,
> andy


I'm running Force levers with BB7 brakes and no problem. Certainly no excessive lever throw. Setting up BB7s is different than the other hydraulic brakes in the Avid / SRAM line. If a person doesn't read the BB7 instructions and just tries to set them up as they would other hydraulics, then they will likely end up in a situation with too much lever throw. Follow the instructions and you'll be fine.


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## 4Crawler (Jul 13, 2011)

Be sure to get the BB7-Road version, they use less cable pull than the Mtn version. I run Tektro road levers as well as some in-line cross levers and they both work fine, about half the lever pull and you have all the brakes you need.


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## refund!? (Oct 16, 2006)

My shop has built up many drop bar disc brake bikes using SRAM levers and Avid BB-7 road mechanical disc brakes. The key considerations are to use:

-Yokozuna Reaction or Jagwire Ripcord housing in carefully sized lengths 
-High quality aluminum or brass end caps
-Stainless pre-stretched cables
-Avid Full Metal Jacket tubes to reduce housing runs (Be creative)
-Inline adjusters to take care of cable slack 
-Organic pads with aluminum back plates

True your rotors before makin final pad adjustments (Get the Park rotor truing tools to attach to your truing stand or have your local bike shop do it).

Setting the brakes up this way will ensure excellent performance.


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## andy13 (Aug 22, 2008)

Thanks guys. It sounds like simply a setup issue. BB7 roads using good cables and housing and adjust per instructions and I should be good. We have Force levers for her already. I'll probably see how the stock pads work before I try switching them. Thanks again. This will mean a nice new carbon disc cross bike for her.


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## Sheepo (Nov 8, 2011)

There is a lot of throw with a BB7/Sram setup. Its fine if you brake resting on the hoods or braking from the drops, but if you try to brake while gripping the hood body with your ring/pinky fingers, your doubletap lever will bottom out on your fingers. 

Riding road, gravel, or commuting is absolutely fine. I just rest my hands on the hoods. 

But when I am racing CX, I need to grab the hoods for extra control. 

I guess I have large hands. Nothing ridiculous. Probably average for a 6 foot male.

What is she doing with the bike? Road? Commute? Or CX racing?


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## AndreyT (Dec 1, 2011)

andy13 said:


> Any real world experience would be appreciated.


I use Apex levers with BB7 with no problems whatsoever. I used BB5 previously and they also worked fine.


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## andy13 (Aug 22, 2008)

Her use will be about everything. Primarily CX racing, but she also races gravel grinders on it as well as just a winter bike. Thanks.


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## Tim de Velo (Jan 18, 2010)

AndreyT said:


> I use Apex levers with BB7 with no problems whatsoever. I used BB5 previously and they also worked fine.


This. Get the Road BB7's, set them up properly and you'll be good.


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## kistenjoe (May 5, 2008)

Old thread revived...

I just got Sram Red Black levers with BB7 Road and I do have excessive lever throw. I use Jagwire Ripcord L3 Housing and cables. 

I set them up properly but as Sheepo said, for CX use there is too much lever throw. Whenever I rest my hands in the hoods and try to brake hard, my fingers get in the way of the shift lever. I'm certain that it isn't a setup issue. The rotor is true, with the red nobs locking the brake I can't pull the lever a bit (no compression whatsoever) and as soon as I move the nobs out so that there is no rubbing, the lever pull is as described above. 

Does anyone know whether sram has changed the lever pull ratio of the new double tap levers?

Shimano 6700 and 7900 certainly pull more cable as Sram Reds...

KJ.


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## imba_pete (Oct 19, 2008)

I've used both 2012/2013 Red and Force levers w/ BB7s for cross racing. You can set them up pretty tight, and minimize lever throw. I ride with one or two fingers wrapped behind the lever on the hoods, often in winter gloves, so pinching my fingers behind the lever is a definite problem if they are set up with too much slack. The key is 1) a very straight rotor 2) position the fixed pad very close to the rotor 3) set the movable pad as close as you like to achieve the proper lever throw. Do not use cable tension to adjust lever throw. Set the cable with no slack. If needed, bend the pad spreader spring or use stiffer springs to ensure the pads retract as far as possible to help minimize rubbing. When the fixed pad is set very close to the rotor, you should have a nice powerful brake with one finger that engages at the top of the lever throw.


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## ozbikebuddy (May 3, 2005)

I'm setting up my LaCruz Shortly, I am going to run 1x10 with Rival Brifters and BB7 Mth to start with and if needed will go to BB7 Rd. 

Apparently this combo has been tried with success on Tandems, (seen over the the MTBreveiw cross forum), so to save a few $$$ to start with I an going to give that a try.


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