# Crash this morning - saddle repair tip?



## E 12 (Jul 13, 2008)

Well, I had my first crash on the road this morning. A driver pulled out in front of me from a blind street/driveway and my only out was to swerve hard to avoid a collision - in the process, my toe overlap hitting the front tire caused an instant stop and fall. Luckily, I wasn't going very fast at the time as I had just re-started from a stoplight that wouldn't have been safe to roll through (as evidenced my the guy I couldn't see almost hitting me).

Anyway, I miraculously was able to save any real impact to the bike save for a little ding on the rear skewer, the non-drive side pedal, and of course, a freaking tear in my almost-new Fizik Antares.

Without having to actually replace the saddle, does anyone know of a way to "repair" the saddle tear? It isn't real bad, but enough that I'd like to try to seal it to prevent it from getting worse (and of course to attempt to make it as invisible as possible).

Any suggestions (other than buying a new saddle)?


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## Terrapin (Aug 1, 2002)

I've had this happen and I've tried to repair it. Hardware stores sell leather or vinyl "epoxy" that is supposed to repair the tear. It's real strong, and it usually won't retear at that point.

Here's the problem. If the tear is anywhere where your bodies contacts it, you will get severe saddle sores in the spot of the tear. It's impossible to make the repair smooth, and the action of cycling will immediately cause lots of irritation.

If the tear is wear you sit, the saddle is toast.


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2009)

Some of them can be recovered, I've not held an Antares in my hands to know how hard that would be to do.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I probably would not try a repair and get a replacement and count your blessings it was no worse.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

*I bet you could glue it.*

I took a spill on a Selle San Marco Regal saddle last year. Leather ripped on the left edge in the back, where it hit the curb. Dabbed on some Shoe Goo, and it's pretty much stayed together. It's off the edge at the back of the saddle, not on top where I sit. Haven't noticed any undue wear on the shorts where they may rub against the rough spot where the glue is.

Agree though, if you're sitting on the repair, or brushing against it pedaling, it'll chafe or wear out your shorts, and should just be replaced. :frown2:


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

Depends on where the tear is. I've scuffed up a couple of saddles on the sides. Just a cosmetic issue. If it's somewhere where you sit, like others have mentioned, chuck it and get a new saddle.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

I'm with Fredrico. I've used Shoe Goo to repair saddle cuts and it works great. The repair won't be invisible, but it WILL be when you're on the bike!


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

to try to keep the repair as smooth as possible, after applying the glue, cover with kitchen plastic wrap and smooth it out through the wrap, leave the wrap on until it cures.
I do this a LOT with epoxy repairs that need to be invisible afterwards.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

Barge Cement will work fine to repair it. It's flexible when it dries and holds very strong. 

I've recovered a few saddles in the last few months, mostly Flites, and that Antares would be pretty easy to do. If you can get the old cover off without messing up the foam too much, it will look fine. The most difficult part about the job will be to source the replacement leather that is the correct thickness and get the nose wrapped without folds or wrinkles. 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=190701


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*epoxy*



Touch0Gray said:


> to try to keep the repair as smooth as possible, after applying the glue, cover with kitchen plastic wrap and smooth it out through the wrap, leave the wrap on until it cures.
> I do this a LOT with epoxy repairs that need to be invisible afterwards.


right on. If you use a quick-setting epoxy and brush it on smoothly, you don't even need to use the plastic wrap, as it will self-level and set up quickly enough not to drip. Ends up very smooth and tough.

Works on my shoes where my heel rubs the crank, too.


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