# Mavic Reflex tubular rim ERD?



## cogswell23 (Aug 15, 2007)

Hey,
Can anyone tell me definitively the ERD for a Mavic Reflex tubular rim? The Mavic website does not say, and a google search yields inconsistent results.

(Cross posted to Cyclocross)

Thanks!


----------



## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

611mm.

-Eric


----------



## slideeslide (Feb 1, 2007)

Not to counter Ergott, who has built more wheels than I ever will..._and is a trombone player as well...bass I think?_ 
You need to really measure each one. Last night I measured mine which are the lighter blue Reflex from some years back= 614mmERD.
Easy method to measure yourself 
Rims

Take two spokes cut down to 200mm. Glue on a nipple so that the top of the spoke is flush with the bottom of the slot in the nipple.









Place in opposite holes in the rim and hold taut. Measure between the ends and add 400mm. 









The above was stolen from https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/


----------



## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

I should have elaborated.

#1) yes, you should measure EVERY rim you build. I know of at least 3 rim companies that have rim ERD variations of as much as 3mm within the same model. That will mess up a quality build if you didn't measure them.

The last 4 Reflex rims (silvers) measured an average of 610.7mm
Reflex Ceramic (4 samples) 612mm
Reflex CD (6 samples) 611.3mm

Next, you account for the stretch of the spokes when plugging numbers into a calc like spocalc (free, look it up and use it). 

front wheels:
Use 1mm shorter than result with 1.5mm spokes in between the butts (this includes Aerolites and CX-Rays)
Use 0.5mm shorter for 1.8mm spokes (butted section if they are)

rear wheels:
DS (drive side) same as front. Tension is similar.
NDS (non drive side)
0.5mm for the 1.5mm spokes (as explained above) and 0 for 1.8mm spokes as described above.

There you go. That's how I get the spokes flush with the nipples. Measuring the hub isn't as critical, but should be done at lease once for each model. Variations within models (not including redesigns) are insignificant.

Even better, have access to a Phil Wood spoke machine. I cut every spoke to size that I use. I guesstimate the last 0.1mm or so based on the rule attached. I also have it so the spoke tray is locked to the machine so the spokes aren't sliding around in there and giving you inconsistent results as you cut.

There you have it.

-Eric

PS I do play the bass trombone primarily and play most low frequency instruments to an acceptable level


----------



## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

I have built mountain wheels but never road wheels. 
I am wondering what the big deal is about having the spokes flush out at the bottom of the nipple slot.
If the spoke sticks out a mm or so it will never touch the seat of the tube or tire.

Just wondering.

BTW ergott, someone on the forums suggested that you build me a set as I don't trust my skills for a really nice set of wheels. I will shoot you a pm soon.


----------



## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

pigpen said:


> I have built mountain wheels but never road wheels.
> I am wondering what the big deal is about having the spokes flush out at the bottom of the nipple slot.
> If the spoke sticks out a mm or so it will never touch the seat of the tube or tire.
> 
> Just wondering.



I try for the spoke to come flush with the top of the nipple. 2 turns either way is the margin of error so you are not doing anything wrong if they stick out a little. Just make sure they don't bottom out on you before you get to tension.

-Eric


----------



## curlybike (Jan 23, 2002)

Well 1 mm is fine but 2mm is bottomed and no adjustment remaining, and probably not enough tension on the spoke!


----------

