# A Roadier "gravel bike"



## Agwan

I know this isn't the perfect spot for this. but since I ride these bikes as tourers/ commuters. I thought I'd ask here.

I'm currently on a Soma Wolverine. In truth it's a commuter, not a true gravel bike, at least not how I've built it. I have a very long torso and very short legs, I weigh a lot and I'm hard on bikes. So when this trend came into being, I was stoked, "Road" frames that fit me!

First I built a Straggler about 7 different ways. was never happy with it. In doing that I realized my giant 50cm gorilla shoulders made most all drops miserable, reserved myself to a life on flat bars.

Sold the Straggler, got the Wolverine, did a quick budget build and got it on the road. It's a blast. Love the bike. Rides like a sofa.

But now I am at the point where I want more zip in my bike. and I'm at an impass. Should I gear the Wolverine a bit higher, slap on a carbon fork and some lighter wheels?

Or should I start over on a second bike. Keeping in mind that what I am looking for is something that can hang with road bikes, but not suffer under my weight. Disc brakes are a must where I live. No alloy or carbon is excluded.

I was looking at the Niner RLT9, reviewers say they dislike the ride and unsure handling, then I was shown the Specialized Crux e5 frameset. and reviews are really good for it.

What would you do? start anew for something peppier? Or put the already fantastic Wolverine on a diet and hope for the best?

any other recommendations are appreciated.


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## Cyclist69

You seem really happy with what you already own. You stated it was a budget build so, starting over from scratch may be too costly. If it were me, I would do just as you mentioned. Go for a carbon fork and or lighter wheelset and slowly upgrade your other components over time to reduce the bikes overall weight.

If you know where you'll be riding and the surface conditions beforehand. You might try running a slimmer tire profile. That will most definitely quicken the bicycles handling and increase your speed.

Just my opinion.


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## Agwan

Thanks! I'm right with you there. While the Soma was initially built on a budget, the budget has gotten a little bit looser as of late. So it's not entirely the cost that I worry about. My real concern is whether or not people think that Wolverine is the right bike to do it too. I get the feeling it may be seeing a lot of approval!


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## Donn12

How much will be road riding and how much will be gravel?


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## Agwan

It's a commuter, so 90% rough roads, 10% assorted gravel/campground trails.


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## bigrider

Just get a lighter cyclocross bike and put on fast tires.


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## robt57

bigrider said:


> Just get a lighter cyclocross bike and put on fast tires.


But be mindful of the BB drop on the CX unless you deem that a non issue. But cognisense of extremes 'brand to brand' / 'frame to frame' probably fruitful.

I popped together an Old Retro Panasonic with minimal BB drop, and VS my 2007 TCX I don't care for how I sit the machine frankly. It is still fun to ride...
BTW, 42C Conti Speed Ride fit it, Center pull brakes and all.  

The Conti Speed rides to me ARE a Faster tire mentioned IMO. But the 42C in real life is a 38C in that tire I should mention...

Old School adventure bike, before the industry figured out how to pry coin from us calling something that already existed something new.


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## wgscott

At age 50 I finally decided to get a steel custom "adventure road" bike (with carbon fork), having exactly the same set of afflictions you do. It cost a lot, and I had to wait a long time, but it was worth it. My only regret is waiting this long in my life. Hence my advice -- do it now. It is the best ride I ever had with my clothes on.


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## robt57

wgscott said:


> At age 50 I finally decided to get a steel custom "adventure road" bike (with carbon fork), having exactly the same set of afflictions you do. It cost a lot, and I had to wait a long time, but it was worth it. My only regret is waiting this long in my life. Hence my advice -- do it now. It is the best ride I ever had with my clothes on.


I understand that, I did a custom steel in 2000, a road frame. I still ride it, albeit as a SS. 

I agree, do it now if you have the budget. The wait time to get another one is the only that has me not doing it again. I have even started the process and reversed a few times in the last few years. And in my case I would only go with another Carl Strong frame, and the fit aspect is history as to make it really a just order it. I think I will get there.

BUT, what I learned about fit from the process [for me] makes choosing off the peg stuff a lot less of a crap shoot than it was previously frankly.


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## myhui

robt57 said:


> Old School adventure bike


That saddle bag is beyond classic. It's an icon of its kind.


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## wgscott

That is awesome. I missed it until you pointed it out. My Brooks has the loops for it, too.


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## Migen21

Agwan,

I was in the same situation as you a few weeks ago. My straggler was a serviceable ride. Comfortable, but not much fun .

I did a ton of research, and ended up with a volagi Viaje. They also make the Liscio,, which is a little "roadier" than the Viaje. I opted for the Viaje for the extra tire/fender room.

You might check them out. If you can't find a local dealer, they will rent you a demo and ship it to you for a week for $200. See the details on their website.


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## Zerort

Reynolds 853 anyone? 65mm BB drop. Discs with gears or belt. Clearance for 35mm +/-.


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## GRAVELBIKE

My Black Mountain Cycles road model sees plenty of dirt/gravel. The deep drop brakes clear 32mm tires, and the bike handles very predictably on- or off-road.


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## Tig

Agwan said:


> I was looking at the Niner RLT9, reviewers say they dislike the ride and unsure handling, then I was shown the Specialized Crux e5 frameset. and reviews are really good for it.


I've been awaiting the industry to make a bike with certain design features for about 10 years, and now there are several to choose from. I wanted a carbon frame that is super stiff at the BB yet compliant riding for my aging bones, hydraulic disk brakes, compact crank, a lower than the usual CX bottom bracket (this has a 71mm BB drop), and all without topping $3000.

The Specialized CruX Elite EVO (EVO uses 50/34 chain rings instead of 'cross 46/36) nailed it all. While the TRP brakes are cable _actuated _hydraulics, they have a much better feel than pure cable (I have on my Fisher Rig single speed 29'er) and slightly less power than full hydraulics (I have on my Giant XC bike).

After a few long rides and some fit dialing in, I'm really enjoying this bike. The ride is as comfy as my old 531 lugged touring bike, but much better handling. I traded the 38 semi-cross tires for 32 Conti Gatorskins. They feel extremely secure for fast cornering and compress well for bunny hopping obstacles. It was a please to ride over patchy chip seal roads that usually beat me up, even when on the steel Soma Rush with 25's.

Mine is a 49CM:


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## bikerector

I would just build up the Wolverine frame if money is an object. What I used to do a lot when I started racing with a cx bike is have a set of wheels for road riding mounted with road tires and dirt tires on heavier wheels for gravel and CX. The wolverine is a little burlier than a CX bike but not much. If you're really good with fitting yourself to your bike, I know some people would would even swap out stems or get an adjustable stem for varying up the riding. I just used the drop a lot more for road riding and the hoods more for gravel to get the aggressive, roadie feel.

Also, consider looking into dirt drops like the salsa wood chipper. I don't think the tops will be great for you but the flare of the drops might work out well for your broad shoulders. If you already have flat bar controls, probably not worth it as there would be a lot of cost with switching everything over.


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## Agwan

Thanks guys, full custom framesets are a little bit outside my price range right now. And the Soma is already fantastic at a lot of what others have mentioned in this thread.

@tig: I notice a lot of the roadish traits in the Crux, It's what caught my eye, I can't swing the carbon frameset, but even the Aluminum one is pretty well reviewed. I always build from a frame up, partly for fit reasons, but also because I tend to have very specific tastes. The Crux stays high on my list.

@bikerector: The frame is already built, If I stick with it I'm pretty sure I'll swap the steel fork out for something more compliant. The fork is plenty comfy, but that comfort can make it a bit vague in the corners, Tange has a carbon unit designed around these types of frames that looks like it will do nicely.

I've tested out dirt drops. It taught me that I hate them with a passion.I genuinely like a very flat top with a very compact drop (like, 125mm) but I need width. I'm not too worried about switching bar types in general. I have a ton of spare parts and I generally build every bike from a frameset up. 

Building bikes is kind of my Zen.


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## NJBiker72

Agwan said:


> It's a commuter, so 90% rough roads, 10% assorted gravel/campground trails.


How about a Specialized Roubaix? You can easily put on 28 tires. If 90% is road riding you will be fine. If you want to cut costs go with a Secteur. That is what I use for my gravel rides.


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## Steve B.

I think best bang for the buck would be:

- Skip the carbon fork. It might limit what size tire you can take and on this bike, that would somewhat defeat the purpose. As well I'm not sure you'd notice the difference. 

- Spend the money instead on lighter wheels and skinny tires. If you're not heavy, a set of low spoke count aero wheels or some form of nice fast wheels with lightweight tires. You'll notice the difference here.


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## Agwan

Steve B. said:


> I think best bang for the buck would be:
> 
> - Skip the carbon fork. It might limit what size tire you can take and on this bike, that would somewhat defeat the purpose. As well I'm not sure you'd notice the difference.
> 
> - Spend the money instead on lighter wheels and skinny tires. If you're not heavy, a set of low spoke count aero wheels or some form of nice fast wheels with lightweight tires. You'll notice the difference here.











This one (the one designed to go with the bike) wont. at least not in any range that matters to me. it takes 38mm+. Since fork compliance, and not comfort or weight are why I am interested in this fork I imagine a carbon fork will behave like a carbon fork and a steel fork will behave like a steel fork. In that Carbon can be built rigid on one axis while being forgiving on another... and steel tubing... is going to flex more or less the same in all directions.

I'm super heavy, and I'm riding the skinniest tires the bike can handle before a loss of acceleration and massive traction issues develop (32mm) I do think a set of carbon hoops can save me about a pound in the wheels. but frankly I feel a more compliant fork and higher gearing would make a bigger difference.

Which is why I am not against buying an altogether more compliant frameset for a second, more street oriented bike than this.


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## bikerector

An enve disc fork can take a 1.9" tire. I haven't put one in there yet but a 35mm leaves a lot of room yet. And it's incredibly light and strong, I've crash tested it in races plenty. It's not so cheap though.


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## robt57

myhui said:


> That saddle bag is beyond classic. It's an icon of its kind.


And it surprised me how comfortable it is too.


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## Agwan

bikerector said:


> An enve disc fork can take a 1.9" tire. I haven't put one in there yet but a 35mm leaves a lot of room yet. And it's incredibly light and strong, I've crash tested it in races plenty. It's not so cheap though.


I know, I am from the city Enve is in. I went to school with (at least) one of their engineers. Sadly my head tube doesn't allow for their tapered steerers. Hopefully the Tange unit is satisfactory, because there are very few straight steerer options out there for carbon forks.


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## bikerector

Agwan said:


> I know, I am from the city Enve is in. I went to school with (at least) one of their engineers. Sadly my head tube doesn't allow for their tapered steerers. Hopefully the Tange unit is satisfactory, because there are very few straight steerer options out there for carbon forks.


I forgot about most steel frames have straight steerers. Ritchey has a straight steerer on this one, no idea on tire clearance though.

Ritchey WCS Carbon Disc Cross Bike Fork

The enve canti fork will work with a straight steerer, but I'm not sure that I would give up disc brakes on the front for just getting the lighter fork, especially if you're doing all-weather commuting. It has a lot of tire clearance still.

Cross - Component | ENVE


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## harryman

I have a Volagi Liscio, much more on the roadie side of the spectrum since you can't fit more than @ a 30mm tire in it, but it would be well suited for your choice of surfaces.


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## kbwh

NJBiker72 said:


> How about a Specialized Roubaix? You can easily put on 28 tires. If 90% is road riding you will be fine. If you want to cut costs go with a Secteur. That is what I use for my gravel rides.


I was thinking the new Specialized Diverge. Basically a Roubaix geo with room for fatter tires than a Roubaix.
Specialized Bicycle Components


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## NJBiker72

kbwh said:


> I was thinking the new Specialized Diverge. Basically a Roubaix geo with room for fatter tires than a Roubaix.
> Specialized Bicycle Components


Seems like a good idea. Its not bad to have the extra clearance. Not 100% sure it's necessary. 

If I can shake my cold and the weather continues to improve I will be doing 82 on a mix of gravel, dirt and rough pavement on my Tarmac with 25s. Did it 2 years ago on my Secteur with 28s. 

One shop suggested 32s but said they would not fit. The other shop said 25s and they had a ton of riders there with that set up.


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## rm -rf

Agwan said:


> I know this isn't the perfect spot for this. but since I ride these bikes as tourers/ commuters. I thought I'd ask here.
> 
> I'm currently on a Soma Wolverine. In truth it's a commuter, not a true gravel bike, at least not how I've built it. I have a very long torso and very short legs, I weigh a lot and I'm hard on bikes. So when this trend came into being, I was stoked, "Road" frames that fit me!
> 
> First I built a Straggler about 7 different ways. was never happy with it. In doing that I realized my giant 50cm gorilla shoulders made most all drops miserable, reserved myself to a life on flat bars.
> 
> Sold the Straggler, got the Wolverine, did a quick budget build and got it on the road. It's a blast. *Love the bike. Rides like a sofa*.
> 
> But now I am at the point where I want *more zip* in my bike. and I'm at an impass. Should I *gear *the Wolverine a bit higher, slap on a *carbon fork* and some* lighter wheels*?
> 
> Or should I start over on a second bike. Keeping in mind that what I am looking for is something that can hang with road bikes, but not suffer under my weight. Disc brakes are a must where I live. No alloy or carbon is excluded.
> 
> I was looking at the Niner RLT9, reviewers say they dislike the ride and unsure handling, then I was shown the Specialized Crux e5 frameset. and reviews are really good for it.
> 
> What would you do? start anew for something *peppier*? Or put the already fantastic Wolverine on a diet and hope for the best?
> 
> any other recommendations are appreciated.


I'm not sure what your goal is. Does "zippier" just mean faster, or quicker handling? Are you just wanting a lighter weight bike?

Cutting a few pounds off the bike weight won't make a huge difference in speed.Two full water bottles (22 ounce ) are almost 3 pounds. Are you noticeably slower with full bottles?

Quicker handling makes a bike feel responsive. But I think that most gravel bikes are designed more to be stable on the loose surface instead of having instant handling.

Tires: an offroad tire with knobs will be slow and unresponsive on the road. Some good road tires at the correct pressure for your weight would be a great upgrade. Perhaps a second set of wheels with road tires would make it easy to switch from a fast road ride to an adventure gravel ride.

I don't think a carbon fork upgrade is really necessary. But if you want to switch, check out Whisky forks. They have disk or cantilever 1 1/8 carbon forks for cross bikes, with clearance for offroad tires.

Gearing: I like Mike Sherman's Gear Calculator. You can plug in your current bike's wheels and gears, then as you try different gears or cadences, the charts update on the fly. And you can click the bookmark button to save those settings.


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## Tig

kbwh said:


> I was thinking the new Specialized Diverge. Basically a Roubaix geo with room for fatter tires than a Roubaix.
> Specialized Bicycle Components


That's a worthy choice. :thumbsup:


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