# Suspension fork or stem for a cyclocross bike?



## morkys

Just wondering if there are suspension forks or stems available for use on a cyclocross bike. I have a 54 cm 2008 Jake The Snake. Just want to take some bite out of the ride on rough roads, paths. I don't race this bike, it's just my back-road/country-road rider/explorer.


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## TedH

Any 29er MTB fork should work then. There are some suspension forks made for hybrids, maybe Rock Shox still makes them, that you could also check if you only want 1-2in of travel.


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## PeanutButterBreath

TedH said:


> Any 29er MTB fork should work then.


Actually they won't work well at all. The axle-to-crown dimension on a 29er MTB fork will be way too tall for the geometry of a CX frame. Even a 26" fork will be far too tall (in addition to the brake posts being in the wrong place).


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## morkys

I wish they made really simple suspension stems. Just something with 1" to 2" of 'travel' to reduce the bumps and smacks on crappy roads. They used to make suspension stems, but not any longer.


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## ryandood

I saw on craigslist a while ago an older 90's mongoose titanium cross bike with a 700c specific fork. So they must be out there...


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## PeanutButterBreath

Bigger tires & lower PSI, better set-up, better technique, more realistic expectations or just a more appropriate bike would be your better bets, IMO.

Most of the "simple", inexpensive front suspension systems disappeared because they were crappy (or dangerous). Too heavy and technologically inferior. RockShox currently makes a suspension fork for hybrids, but they explicitly say that it is not for MTB or cyclocross.


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## flanman

Did the Poprad come with a suspension fork at one time? or was it just disc braking?

Paris-Roubaix was won on suspension forks a couple of years in the 90s. I have a picture of Duclos-Lasalle winning in 1992 with a Rock Shox and I think one of Museeuw's wins was on one. Don't have any more details.

The front cover of Bicycling Magazine's Complete Book of Road Cycling Skills (pub. 1998) features a Serotta with suspension fork. i believe some road suspension forks do come up on Ebay regularly, these should work for cross as well.


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## PeanutButterBreath

flanman said:


> i believe some road suspension forks do come up on Ebay regularly, these should work for cross as well.


Assuming they have clearance for cross tires. . .


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## flanman

PeanutButterBreath said:


> Assuming they have clearance for cross tires. . .


Good point!


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## aabbas

Rockshox introduced one that would work somewhere around ten years ago or more. Just enough clearance (like a rigid cross fork), canti studs, 1" steerer. Travis Brown used a specially lightened one at Nationals in the SF Presidio. Yeah, if you're lucky, maybe you'll see something on ebay that'd work. I agree with other folks here though that it's probably not the wisest choice.


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## cyclocross808

I'm guessing you want 1-1/8 threadless and something shorter than 135, but some older ones avail on ebay.


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## morkys

My bike is a 2008 54 cm Jake The Snake. I can't recall if the stem is 1" or 1 and 1/8".


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## one_speed

It's likely 1 1/8". I'd say that the best you can do is get the largest tires on there you can and run at a lower pressure. That can make a huge difference, depending on what you are running right now.


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## morkys

The bike has 35's on there now. I went from a regular saddle to a Velo comfort saddle with springs and that was all it took to make the rear end comfortable. Perhaps I'll check for some gel gloves.


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## one_speed

One other thought could be to pick up an inexpensive Surly Cross Check fork. I have one and it'll take a much larger tire than a 35. May be able to get close to a 2" tire in there. However, it could cause toe overlap issues. Something to think about.


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## morkys

I don't want to put enourmous tires on there. The bike can probably fit a bit bigger tires without a larger fork. I'm not sure exactly. I'll check into that and the Surly Cross Check fork.


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## cyclocross808

*see "under pressure"*



one_speed said:


> It's likely 1 1/8". I'd say that the best you can do is get the largest tires on there you can and run at a lower pressure. That can make a huge difference, depending on what you are running right now.


that's totally true - if you're not set on suspension, you'll get a lot more efficiency and speed by going to lower pressure while riding. going wider, running tubeless, or running tubulars will all help. see the article "under pressure" that did some "research" on tire pressure and its effect on speed in Issue 3 of Cyclocross Magazine.

good luck.


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## hayduke1972

You got a Project 2 steel fork on there that is fairly compliant. But its a strait leg fork, you could check into something like a Surly Cross Check fork with curved legs to take the edge off a little more. If you wanted to step up even more, look at a Sibex Ti Cross Fork...its about as supple as it gets (without being a noodle) for a rigid fork.

You might also check into gel pads/tape for your bars to take a little of the sting off


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## PeanutButterBreath

I wouldn't ride a Sibex fork if you paid me. :nonod:


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## hayduke1972

*why?*



PeanutButterBreath said:


> I wouldn't ride a Sibex fork if you paid me. :nonod:


I'm curious to what your justification is. I seen in person two professional riders using them (both national champions in various disciplines) with great success.

I haven't rode one myself but I did get to demo a Morati (not sure if they're in business anymore) ti cross fork a few years back and the thing felt great despite my concerns of it being too flexy under my 215lbs.


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## morkys

hayduke1972 said:


> You got a Project 2 steel fork on there that is fairly compliant. But its a strait leg fork, you could check into something like a Surly Cross Check fork with curved legs to take the edge off a little more. If you wanted to step up even more, look at a Sibex Ti Cross Fork...its about as supple as it gets (without being a noodle) for a rigid fork.
> 
> You might also check into gel pads/tape for your bars to take a little of the sting off


My 08 54 cm Jake The Snake has a Kona Carbon Cross fork. It's not bad really. It does soak up some of the vibration, but, it's the rough bumps on some really crappy roads up north that I'd like to smooth out.


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## PeanutButterBreath

Too many reports of scary handling characteristics and too many pictures like this:


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## hayduke1972

*OK...but thats a MTB fork*



PeanutButterBreath said:


> Too many reports of scary handling characteristics and too many pictures like this:


Fair enough...but the picture your showing is a Sibex MTB fork which I think we can both agree is subjected to greater abuse.

Besides, in my eight years as a bicycle mechanic...I saw plenty of broken headtubes, suspension forks, and even road forks (steel, aluminum, and carbon).


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## PeanutButterBreath

hayduke1972 said:


> Fair enough...but the picture your showing is a Sibex MTB fork which I think we can both agree is subjected to greater abuse.


No, we can't. It is an MTB fork, shouldn't be be built to handle MTB riding? Using the fork for the application it was sold for is not "abuse", simply because it is more rigorous than other applications.



hayduke1972 said:


> Besides, in my eight years as a bicycle mechanic...I saw plenty of broken headtubes, suspension forks, and even road forks (steel, aluminum, and carbon).


Sure, anything can break. But when you see a pattern. . .



















(Different labels, same factory)

And there is still the whole matter of many people thinking they handle like crap. QBP no longer carries them, so they are hard to find. I think the writing is on the wall for Sibex forks.


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## morkys

...well, I don't want another rigid fork...


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## one_speed

I have to agree with Peanut Butter, I'd steer clear. Sure, everything can break under the right conditions, but a track record is a track record. I'm sure if pros are using them, they replace them fairly often.


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## colinr

No one's come out and said it yet, but the obvious answer here is to stop being a wuss.


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## Unoveloce

*If you want a suspension fork to take the edge off*

Get in good with your local bike shop that carries brands like Trek and Giant. Both companies make a large selection of Euro style hybrid bikes with front suspension. They also have large part and component group divisions of their company that stock replacement parts for all of those bikes. If your shop is in good with the parent company, they should be able to convince their inside rep to locate one for you. Warning. It will be heavier, much heavier than your stock fork and may crap out on you in short order if you use it for mountain biking, but if you just want something do deal with potholes and such, that's what they are designed to do.


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## morkys

colinr said:


> No one's come out and said it yet, but the obvious answer here is to stop being a wuss.


I am not a wuss. I have a low lumbar disc condition and also my right hand has issues....but thanks for the constructive idea. Real genius.


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## twinkles

I had a Girvin flex stem on a raliegh mtb in the early 90s. It sucked up the small stuff and softened the big hits while having no bad effects on bike handling. It was a single pivot setup, so it might not work as well with drop bars as it did with falt bars. The problem with big tires at low pressure is, that makes the bikie go slooooow.


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## PeanutButterBreath

morkys said:


> I am not a wuss. I have a low lumbar disc condition and also my right hand has issues....but thanks for the constructive idea.


Might have been good info to provide from the start if you want the most constructive ideas.

I don't think a CX bike is the best choice. They are doing amazing things with full-suspension and soft-tail mountain bikes these days. Moots makes a soft-tail CX frame, but that still doesn't solve the front suspension issue. This might be a better startin point: http://www.salsacycles.com/dosniner08.html. A 29er soft-tail with a 29er suspension fork and CX tires would be miles better than a CX bike with a Velo sprung saddle (have one on my commuter) and some crummy hybrid fork or 15 year old stem. More comfortable, lighter, better suspension. . .


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## morkys

I wanted a road bike, but I bought a cyclecross bike because the larger tires and design lends itself better for riding on rougher country roads etc. I had a road bike before, but once I injured my back, I let it go. MTB is fine, and my back has improved over the years, so I'm easing my way back to road type cycling via the cx bike. I took a nice ride on Sunday and it was fine. I just find that the real bumpy areas on crappy roads make the handle bars quite the ride. It's not the end of the world, but I'm looking for ways to smooth out the ride. I would rather not mount a shock fork actually. A suspension stem would be best.

I have a full suspension xc mtb, but I wanted to get back on a road type bike, so that's why the cx. Sure I could just ride the fs xc bike on the road, and quite frankly, I do, on my way back and forth to and from the trails, but a cx bike is fun. I enjoyed the ride I took on Sunday. Did you know that xc backwards is cx? Heheheh...keep the idea's coming guys, but really, if your comment is just that I'm too wimpy, save it for somebody else.

I actually thought of trying a suspension hub, from Dahon...but not sure it would be worth it to lace up a wheel based on that.


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## EricofAZ

morkys said:


> I wish they made really simple suspension stems. Just something with 1" to 2" of 'travel' to reduce the bumps and smacks on crappy roads. They used to make suspension stems, but not any longer.



Has anyone here really used one of these stem things? I had one in the mid 80's on my first MTB. It was a Univega. Elastomer stem shock. 

Every time I hit a curb the wheel stopped, the stem bent forward and put me in the launch position and the momentum launched me. Yup, OTB 6 times in 6 months. So I put a solid stem back on and sold the bike to a farmer.

What I learned is that the fork has to have the shock to let the wheel ride up over a rock/curb while my body momentum remained in the same physics movement. By forcing the entire bike to change momentum and also forcing the rider to change, what really happens is that the bike and rider who outweigh the stem and bars simply continue on their trajectory while the bars bow down and let the rider pass by. Then the bars snap up and hit you in the jewels when they pass over the front of the bike. Kind of one of those "see ya, wouldn't wanna beya" salutes.

Lighter unspring weight in the form of a wheel and shock forces the wheel to give and ride up over the bump while the rest of the weight and momentum commands the trajectory.

Thinking of a stem shock? Don't do it. Find a way to do a fork shock. 

By the way, I have an 07 Specialized Tricross Sport at the office converted to a commuter with the Zerx fork and 700c 32 tires. Its fine for the commute on a Brooks Team Pro and some gel in the bars, but I did put carbon EC70 wing bars on the bike and that helped a lot.


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## PeanutButterBreath

Might be able to build something around the Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra: http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/08/cusa/model-8BS.html


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## colinr

PeanutButterBreath said:


> Might be able to build something around the Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra: http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/08/cusa/model-8BS.html


Actually, that does look like it would do the job quite nicely. I suspect the complaint will be "it doesn't look like a road bike," though.


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## pretender

morkys said:


> Just want to take some bite out of the ride on rough roads, paths.


Bigger tires, lower PSI. The best form of suspension is air in the tires.


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## TurboTurtle

OP - Get what you want and keep trying things 'til you find something that suits YOUR needs.

I know people that swear by their suspension stems, but that just never seemed like the best place to put suspension to me???

You can find old Rock Shox Metros on ebay, etc. Bens Bike sells a cheap Metro knock-off that may be good enough for a trial. Would need to be adapted to the V-brakes or you could use road discs. Heavy, but better than not riding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPINNER-Metro-H...ms=39:1|66:2|65:10&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1318

Rock Shox currently sells these:

http://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/pavement/iride/#tab1

Again, you would have to adapt your road levers to the V-brakes or go to a road disc.

This would have been an interesting one to try. Front suspension and soft tail. Just went on ebay, but I have too many bikes already (is that possible?).

http://cgi.ebay.com/56cm-Boulder-Bi...ms=39:1|66:2|65:13&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1318

TF


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## hayduke1972

If a suspension fork is what you want, the Rock Shox iRide seems like a pretty good bet for just smoothing out road bumps. Switching to v-brakes on the front is easy with a travel agent.


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## PeanutButterBreath

Per BTI that fork has a 460mm a-c, which is not going to fly on a CX bike.

Bottom line, you can't cram a worthwhile amount of suspension between the top of a CX tire and the bottom of a CX frame's HT without screwing up the geometry. Suspension forks require suspension corrected frames.


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## hayduke1972

*I don't think he cares*



PeanutButterBreath said:


> Per BTI that fork has a 460mm a-c, which is not going to fly on a CX bike.
> 
> Bottom line, you can't cram a worthwhile amount of suspension between the top of a CX tire and the bottom of a CX frame's HT without screwing up the geometry. Suspension forks require suspension corrected frames.


He's been given that info several times and still wants a suspension fork, regardless of what it does to his geometry on his bike.

BTW-in the 25mm mode, its only 437. While that will knock the head tube (and seat tube) angle back about 1.5 degrees, it certainly will not make the bike un-rideable.


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## PeanutButterBreath

hayduke1972 said:


> He's been given that info several times and still wants a suspension fork, regardless of what it does to his geometry on his bike.


. . .


morkys said:


> I would rather not mount a shock fork actually.


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## hayduke1972

morkys said:


> ...well, I don't want another rigid fork...


What's your problem anyways...you got a personal issue with me?


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## PeanutButterBreath

hayduke1972 said:


> What's your problem anyways...you got a personal issue with me?


I'm just here to help. :thumbsup:


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## hayduke1972

*So how about YOUR suggestions*



PeanutButterBreath said:


> I'm just here to help. :thumbsup:


Your real good at taking shots at others, but how about offering some solutions to people. I don't see you giving any advice...just criticizing others

WEAK


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## PeanutButterBreath

hayduke1972 said:


> Your real good at taking shots at others, but how about offering some solutions to people. I don't see you giving any advice...just criticizing others
> 
> WEAK


Flattery will get you nowhere with me.


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## colinr

hayduke1972 said:


> Your real good at taking shots at others, but how about offering some solutions to people. I don't see you giving any advice...just criticizing others
> 
> WEAK





PeanutButterBreath said:


> I don't think a CX bike is the best choice. They are doing amazing things with full-suspension and soft-tail mountain bikes these days. Moots makes a soft-tail CX frame, but that still doesn't solve the front suspension issue. This might be a better startin point: http://www.salsacycles.com/dosniner08.html. A 29er soft-tail with a 29er suspension fork and CX tires would be miles better than a CX bike with a Velo sprung saddle (have one on my commuter) and some crummy hybrid fork or 15 year old stem. More comfortable, lighter, better suspension. . .


Dude, stop saying things that can be refuted just by reading the thread. And no, I don't have a personal problem with you.


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## morkys

put down your bo and luke's and your jesse and daisy....

I have the cx bike and I'm keeping it. I'm just looking to soften up the ride a bit. I didn't want to start a huge battle.


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## bluemarinoni

I'm sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear, and it is one in the morning here, and I'm not prone to say the best things, but, with your medical problems, if a cross bike is aggravating them, then maybe you shouldn't be riding it. 

Sounds like you've already pushed way beyond the fit envelope (though I got a little lost in the posts when people started busting each other up), and, well, suspension stems died a long way back for good reason. Suspension fork? Cross bikes are already pretty cushy-

Gel gloves? Get real. Talk about marketing racket.

Get back on the MTB, Get a nice full suspension bike and put skinny tires on it if you must, but you're not racing, so why stick to a cross bike if it's hurting you? Stop hurting yourself and you'll ride many years more.

I guess my question is, why do you insist on riding a CX bike?

With care,


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## Blade-Runner

There is the Soft Ride Stem


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## morkys

bluemarinoni said:


> I'm sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear, and it is one in the morning here, and I'm not prone to say the best things, but, with your medical problems, if a cross bike is aggravating them, then maybe you shouldn't be riding it.
> 
> Sounds like you've already pushed way beyond the fit envelope (though I got a little lost in the posts when people started busting each other up), and, well, suspension stems died a long way back for good reason. Suspension fork? Cross bikes are already pretty cushy-
> 
> Gel gloves? Get real. Talk about marketing racket.
> 
> Get back on the MTB, Get a nice full suspension bike and put skinny tires on it if you must, but you're not racing, so why stick to a cross bike if it's hurting you? Stop hurting yourself and you'll ride many years more.
> 
> I guess my question is, why do you insist on riding a CX bike?
> 
> With care,


This is a weird experience. It's not "hurting me" like I'm killing myself or dying...it's just a little rough. It's not the end of the world. I rode the bike and it was pretty good. I don't "need" to get a fork or suspension stem, but it would be neat if there was something that worked.

The softride stem could work.....I may just add an extra strip of bar tape inside the bars. Maybe slightly bigger tires is all I need. Who knows.


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## PeanutButterBreath

*Custom fork?*

Wes Williams builds a steel rigid fork callled the W.O.W. It is designed to maximize the amount of suspension that can be had from a rigid fork. Its a 29er fork and may not work within the dimensions of a CX fork, but Wes being a very experienced builder, it might be worth dropping him a line and seeing if the concept can be adapted to a CX bike: http://www.willitsbikes.com/Willits.html (see the fork in the "Hard Goods" section).

Also, James at http://www.blacksheepbikes.com/ does some amazing Ti work, so if the idea of a Ti fork appeals to you, he can build you one you can ride with confidence.

Finally, raising the handlebar a bit higher than is considered standard can reduce the amount of weight on the hands and the amount of shock that they have to absorb.


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## bchuang

Maybe try something like this cheap RST fork?

http://cgi.ebay.com/RST-OMNI-791-CL...4464497QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

I just put one of these on a project bike of mine, and it seems to take the bumps out. Only has about 1 inch of real travel.


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## [email protected]

are the sibex forks without this style of crown ok? I saw an older 1" fork with a more traditional style fork leg... safe?


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## c-lo

*Dr Scholl's Heal inserts in the glove*



morkys said:


> I am not a wuss. I have a low lumbar disc condition and also my right hand has issues....but thanks for the constructive idea. Real genius.


morkys, my OT recommended Dr. Scholls heal inserts in my gloves and they've helped alot. I've found most gloves have inadequate padding and adding addtional padding really helped. Best is to used some form of gel padding because it'll last a bit longer. 

I had severe CTS in my left hand from all the riding I do. have it minor in my right too.

ended up having surgery to fix the left. I have a heal insert in my right glove and it does take the edge off. 

While not the exact one I also put one of these: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/SE308B03-Weekender+Tamer+Seatpost.aspx on my hard tail MTB. I race it in some 12 hour races and it helped take the edge off. although I'm tempted to take it off; I'm not convinced it does anything. I think a better saddle would help.


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## Magdaddy

*my experience*

my first crosser was a 99 CDale XS800-a 1" travel headshock bike. I've used this bike for the last 10 years as a winter road warrior here in Central New York, done off road destination, and cross races with it. Initially, the bike had 700x32 tires on it. After a couple of sets wore out, I got a set of 700x38 WTB Interwolf's...WOW what a difference. I've run 38's exclusively on it for many years, and was very happy with the ride and handling of the bike.

That is until I built up a new crosser this year. I wanted a disc cross bike, so I built up a leftover Salsa Las Cruces frameset. The bike is a Scandium frame, with a carbon fork. I put the 700x38 Interwolf's(Kevlar) on the bike, put some steel bead Interwolf's on the old CDale for future use. Anyway, the Salsa rides and handles so much better that the old CDale it's amazing. The handling shouldn't be a real surprise, but the dramatically improved ride quality was very surprising.

I don't think a suspension fork or stem is your answer. You have gotten some real good suggestions previously here...and it's been like 16 months since your first post, so my ramblings could be worthless.

The sure way to get better ride quality-larger volume tires run at lower pressures, and a higher rise stem. I always ran 50+psi on the old CDale, regardless if I was on the road or off. I just didn't know any better. Afte taking a cross clinic this fall, I dropped pressures dramatically. I raced and trained at 30-32psi all season, not one flat. I have a Stan's cross kit, but couldn't get the WTB Interwolf's to hold air on another wheelset-haven't tried on the new rims yet. This tire is kinda loose on the rim, I really don't believe I'd have success running them at that low of pressure, and not burp.

Anyway, hope you found your answers. Sometimes, we struggle to get a level of comfort on a bike that just isn't realistic. I have a riding buddy that for the last 15 years, has never stopped tinkering with fit and comfort. I guess I've just got a different mindset, and a different expected level of comfort on my bikes.

I can jump between my uber fancy carbon roadie, my crosser, and my mtn bike all in the same weekend. While al feel slightly different, I've found how to ride comfortably on them all. Stretching while riding has helped this 48 year old slightly chubby rider stay more comfortable in the saddle, maybe that'll help you too. The last thing I would wish on any rider, is comfort issues that keep you off the bike.

Best of luck, and happy holidays.


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## rmp

*another Softride suggestion*

as posted on page 2, find an Allsop Softride stem on ebay and match it up with a 25.4mm bar - this will give you the softest ride you are going to get, even more than a suspension fork. They did make some in shorter lengths as well.

I just sold my last one a couple years ago, so I can't help you directly, but I think this is what you want...just try to find a shorter one.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rmplum/238749583/" title="DSCF1549 by rmplum, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm1.static.flickr.com/97/238749583_6c1136a624.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSCF1549" /></a>


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## shaggydv

Any luck yet on a suspension fork on your cyclocross?


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