# Key questions: Entry level purchase: Please help :-)



## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

So I've been reading a little bit on entry level road bikes. I've been pretty overwhelmed with the volume of information that there is out there, not to mention the fact that there are so many different types of "Road-Bikes" out there that it's pretty hard to figure out where to even start. I'm going to ask a few questions that hopefully some of the more experienced riders can help out with. I'm going to describe a little about myself as I feel it may help with the answers. 

**I'm 5'8 and way 155. I want to ride for exercise and for overall endurance and keep it at a pretty high intensity. Maybe get into it as a sport eventually. I've never ridden a road bike before and am not positive about the sport/racing part of it yet because I'm not even sure if I'll get that deep into riding. My price range is definitely under a grand, i'm trying to stay as low in price as possible, but I'm aware that spending a little more might do me a lot of favors in the long run if I do end up enjoying this as much as I think I will. I know sizing/feel of the bike is important and I do plan to go to LBS to check those things. 

I've been looking at bikes such as the Trek 1.2, the Cannondale Caad8, and the Cannondale synapse. Truthfully, the main reason for this is because they were listed under endurance road bikes and they were not extremely expensive. I do know there are other options and I'll be checking with LBS. As I read reviews on the bikes I've noticed a lot of people talking about the Sora vs Tiagra shifters.....So some of my questions are as follows: 

1.) On an entry level bike, are sora shifters that bad where its important enough to just spend the extra money and upgrade to a bike with the Tiagra shifters instead? 
Now obviously an upgrade in general should be better. But is the sora set up really that bad? The reviews I've read show that people will want to upgrade this soon after getting a bike with the sora shifters. I dont know what the difference is really, something to do with thumb shifting on the sora being uncomfortable. 

2.) I guess the next really important question would be, what are the main things that you as an experienced rider would look out for when buying an entry level bike. For example, what would you consider to be the definitely-nots, or must-upgrades to an entry level bike, if any, that you think a new rider should definitely upgrade from?
The reason I ask this is because if there are like 1 or 2 things that are must-upgrades that will only cost a little bit more money when buying a bike new, then maybe it will be worth saving just a bit more and buying a bike that's a little better than entry level. 

All help is very much appreciated. Sorry for the long drawn out book, I just figured that the more info you have, the better you may be able to answer. Thanks everyone.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

1) Sora shifters no longer have the thumb doohicky, and I can't say it bothered me when I test-rode bikes with them. Dunno how they are on service life, however.

2) Most of the performance of the bike is really the performance of the rider. Try not to throw money at trying to "faster" the bike. However, things that make you more comfortable are often worthwhile. Fit on a road bike is very important. I find I sometimes need a new stem. Often, the pedal system (if any) that comes stock isn't very good, so you're likely to want cycling shoes and pedals relatively soon. And there's no guarantee that the saddle will work for you.

How much of a cycling background do you have? I was on hybrids and mountain bikes for a while before I got my first road bike...


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

AndrwSwitch said:


> 1) Sora shifters no longer have the thumb doohicky, and I can't say it bothered me when I test-rode bikes with them. Dunno how they are on service life, however.
> 
> 2) Most of the performance of the bike is really the performance of the rider. Try not to throw money at trying to "faster" the bike. However, things that make you more comfortable are often worthwhile. Fit on a road bike is very important. I find I sometimes need a new stem. Often, the pedal system (if any) that comes stock isn't very good, so you're likely to want cycling shoes and pedals relatively soon. And there's no guarantee that the saddle will work for you.
> 
> How much of a cycling background do you have? I was on hybrids and mountain bikes for a while before I got my first road bike...


Thanks for the reply. My background consists of a little mountain bike riding...if you want to call it, in florida the term mountain biking sounds funny. I ride trails here and there, but I wouldn't say often. 

I was thinking that most things wouldn't make a big difference starting out, but I read a lot of experienced riders talking about how some things make a huge difference and might make or break a new rider from actually enjoying the riding and continuing to do it. So I'm just trying to make sure I don't end up disliking the ride over something minor that might make a big difference.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Aside from fit, I don't think the gear's that important. It just needs to work. Fit is a huge deal, though. Probably more in Florida than where I am. Since road cycling is less dynamic than mountain biking, you'll spend a fair chunk of a ride - maybe 80%? - in the saddle with your hands on the brake hoods. So that position really needs to work well for you.

Bear in mind that some people are bicycle enthusiasts and do a little cycling on the side.

Test ride a bunch of bikes and see what you think. Try to try the same model in a couple sizes to give you a sense of how that feels with other things a little more controlled. And, if you can buy from a shop that offers a decent fitting with a new bike, that can help you get off on the right foot in terms of setup. I don't think it's too different from setting up a XC bike, but it's very different from setting up a freeride bike.

If you ride clipless, you can just get more of the same pedal.

Good luck!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Bodhi1 said:


> Thanks for the reply. My background consists of a little mountain bike riding...if you want to call it, in florida the term mountain biking sounds funny. I ride trails here and there, but I wouldn't say often.
> 
> I was thinking that most things wouldn't make a big difference starting out, but I read a lot of experienced riders talking about how some things make a huge difference and might make or break a new rider from actually enjoying the riding and continuing to do it. So I'm just trying to make sure I don't end up disliking the ride over something minor that might make a big difference.


If you're considering riding trails, consider a CX bike. Also, as far as something minor making a major difference (gear-wise) if it exists, I don't know about it.

IMO folks get too wrapped up in the aspect of the sport, rather than focusing on getting a good bike fit and learning good form.. both of which will go further in enhancing your comfort/ performance than high bling gear.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Bear in mind that some people are bicycle enthusiasts and do a little cycling on the side.


I LOVE this!! :thumbsup:


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> If you're considering riding trails, consider a CX bike. Also, as far as something minor making a major difference (gear-wise) if it exists, I don't know about it.
> 
> IMO folks get too wrapped up in the aspect of the sport, rather than focusing on getting a good bike fit and learning good form.. both of which will go further in enhancing your comfort/ performance than high bling gear.


I'm not considering trail riding. I already have a bike that I use for the trails. Now I'm trying to get into road biking and want a bike individually for that. I'm glad you posted this though, some of the stuff I was reading made it seem like some of those things on entry level bikes would be what makes a new rider dislike the sport and it kinda had me worrying about buying a new bike. 



AndrwSwitch said:


> Aside from fit, I don't think the gear's that important. It just needs to work. Fit is a huge deal, though. Probably more in Florida than where I am. Since road cycling is less dynamic than mountain biking, you'll spend a fair chunk of a ride - maybe 80%? - in the saddle with your hands on the brake hoods. So that position really needs to work well for you.
> 
> Bear in mind that some people are bicycle enthusiasts and do a little cycling on the side.
> 
> ...


I'm so new at this I don't even understand some of the lingo you're using lol. I don't know what an XC bike is, or a freeride bike, or what clipless means lol. 

Either way, I appreciate your comment. It makes a big diffence to know that fit is the most important thing and not to worry so much about the shifters/gears, and all of the other components. 

So from what it sounds like, the specific bike, other than fit/feel, doesn't make a huge difference as a starter bike? If this is incorrect, please let me know.


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## sadhappy (Nov 20, 2013)

Hello!

Not being that far removed from being a total newbie Here's the things that come to mind.

Go with tiagra as the minimum spec level.

Seat, pedals, shoes. Your feet and your butt are important contact points with the bike and it's worth spending a little to be comfortable

I started out using the rat trap pedals that came with the bike. That was a mistake. Man did my feet hurt after a ride! And the seat that came with the bike wasn't right for me. I got a seat that fit me well and the difference was like night and day.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Bodhi1 said:


> So from what it sounds like, the specific bike, other than fit/feel, doesn't make a huge difference as a starter bike? If this is incorrect, please let me know.


If the bike fits your anatomy and intended uses, that's all that really matters. Spending more (on an after market saddle, for example) doesn't guarantee more comfort. Get sized and fitted and try the bike with OE equipment to start, then tweak fit as needed as you build saddle time. There's no escaping a period of acclimation.


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> If the bike fits your anatomy and intended uses, that's all that really matters. Spending more (on an after market saddle, for example) doesn't guarantee more comfort. Get sized and fitted and try the bike with OE equipment to start, then tweak fit as needed as you build saddle time. There's no escaping a period of acclimation.


Ok. Sounds like a good plan. Thanks. 


sadhappy said:


> Hello!
> 
> Not being that far removed from being a total newbie Here's the things that come to mind.
> 
> ...


Now why would you say go with the tiagra? That's what I was reading in other places. Why do you feel that is important? This Is what I have not been able to figure out. 

Now, when you say shoes, do you mean a specific type of bicycle riding shoes? Or, forgive me if I sound dumb, is that some type of slang term for a specialized bicycle pedal type or something? lol. 

Also, as far as seats go, none of them look comfortable lol. They all look like they would hurt being that they look like that have no padding or anything lol. I guess I'd have to try a few out.


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## sadhappy (Nov 20, 2013)

Bodhi1 said:


> Now why would you say go with the tiagra? That's what I was reading in other places. Why do you feel that is important? This Is what I have not been able to figure out.
> 
> Now, when you say shoes, do you mean a specific type of bicycle riding shoes? Or, forgive me if I sound dumb, is that some type of slang term for a specialized bicycle pedal type or something? lol.
> 
> Also, as far as seats go, none of them look comfortable lol. They all look like they would hurt being that they look like that have no padding or anything lol. I guess I'd have to try a few out.


re: the equipment group. It's just one of those things where if you start to rack up some miles on the bike you'll be coming back to the shop for new parts, and it's cheaper to get the bike with the better build kit to start with. Any of the stuff sitting on the floor of the bike shop is gonna work work great for a while while it's newish. But when the wear and tear starts to accrue, that's when the quality of the components reveal themselves.

In my case the bike had shimano 2300 parts with a fsa tempo crank and no name bottom bracket. After about a year I upgraded to a 105 group and the difference was like night and day.

on the shoes and pedals. I started with stock pedals and tennis shoes. quite painful for a 25 mile ride. street shoes are too soft and a lot of energy is wasted between the shoe and pedal.

My next move was mountain bike pedals - shimano spd. affordable, definate improvement. But as I started to ride longer and farther I started to have problems with hot spots because the cleat has such a small surface area.

So my next move after that was to get some speedplays and some shimano shoes with a very stuff bottom sole that had no flex. Been happy with that ever since.

If I had a redo on the pedals I would have started with spd-sl (road version of the spd). very affordable road bike pedal and lots of people like them.

EDIT: on the seat. the amount of padding isn't so much of an issue. It's about a seat that's the right width and shape for your anatomy. There is a period of time where you're just gonna have a suck it up and deal with being uncomfortable as your body adapts, but once that happens if you have the right saddle for you, you can sit on it for hours and hours and not experience discomfort. 

In my case I had some real problems with the stock seat putting pressure on my perenial area and it was extremely uncomfortable. So I got a seat with a cutout in that area and it was a fricking revelation. My bike stopped trying to kill my weenis!


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Bodhi1 said:


> I'm so new at this I don't even understand some of the lingo you're using lol. I don't know what an XC bike is, or a freeride bike, or what clipless means lol.
> 
> Either way, I appreciate your comment. It makes a big diffence to know that fit is the most important thing and not to worry so much about the shifters/gears, and all of the other components.
> 
> So from what it sounds like, the specific bike, other than fit/feel, doesn't make a huge difference as a starter bike? If this is incorrect, please let me know.


Sorry - my state has a pretty big MTB scene, and a lot of my ride time is on mountain bike trails. I guess Florida is supposed to too, actually, though I'm not sure about the details. "Oleta" or "Markham Park" ring any bells? I've never been, just seen them mentioned. Anyway, that's kind of a tangent.

Starting out, you're a little bit at the mercy of getting good help from shop staff. I think you can improve your chances of getting the right size bike by visiting a couple shops and riding several bikes. Don't let anyone rush you, and feel free to ask questions.

Anyway, beyond that you should get some manner of road bike, yes, fit and feel are really the most important thing. Bikes are designed to be able to be adjusted for a specific rider, but if you're on the wrong size, making the bike fit your body is likely to mess up the handling. The less you have to fight the bike to get it to fit you comfortably, the better. The way road bikes handle compared to mountain bikes is tons of fun. 

How long are your rides now? I'm pretty religious about wearing gloves and a helmet and being able to change a flat if it comes up, but depending on what I'm doing, I'm negotiable on cycling clothes and shoes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

sadhappy said:


> re: the equipment group. It's just one of those things where if you start to rack up some miles on the bike you'll be coming back to the shop for new parts, and it's cheaper to get the bike with the better build kit to start with. Any of the stuff sitting on the floor of the bike shop is gonna work work great for a while while it's newish. But when the wear and tear starts to accrue, that's when the quality of the components reveal themselves.
> 
> In my case the bike had shimano 2300 parts with a fsa tempo crank and no name bottom bracket. After about a year I upgraded to a 105 group and the difference was like night and day.


While I can definitely see how going from the 2300 groupset and FSA Tempo crankset to 105 would be a discernible upgrade, the remainder doesn't mirror my experiences. If anything, bikes on the LBS floor don't shift well, and require tweaking prior to delivery. 

But beyond that, the level of performance of most any groupset is in the prep, installation and tuning. Once dialed in, even the lower level groupsets perform well and prove durable, with differences being in weight, finish and level of refinement as you go up the model line.

It really comes down to need versus want, and IMO most buyers _think_ they need a higher level group than they actually do. Very seldom is the bike or its components what holds a rider back. It's the 'motor'.


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## Social Climber (Jan 16, 2013)

The only things I would add to the discussion are 1. at your price level you are looking at aluminum frames. Nothing wrong with that but try to get a bike with a carbon fork. It can make a noticeable difference in comfort on long rides, particularly when the roads aren't completely smooth. 2. Clipless pedals and shoes are great, they can really improve your riding and are a likely first upgrade, but you don't need them to start out.


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## timeless (Jun 2, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Aside from fit, I don't think the gear's that important. It just needs to work. Fit is a huge deal, though. Probably more in Florida than where I am. Since road cycling is less dynamic than mountain biking, you'll spend a fair chunk of a ride - maybe 80%? - in the saddle with your hands on the brake hoods. So that position really needs to work well for you.
> 
> Bear in mind that some people are bicycle enthusiasts and do a little cycling on the side.
> 
> ...



I moved into road biking from Mountain biking like chances are a lot of other people. As for me I found the easiest way to compare componants is to them with the Mountain bike line.
This is rough but give you where they fall in the line up.
Dua Ace = XTR
ultegra = XT
105 = LX
Tiagra = Deore
Sora = Alivio

Now I say the biggest advantage going with Tiagra is getting the 10 speed over a 9 speed.
The real risk you run into is really getting into it and liking it so you would want to upgrade. That being said I have a friend who like you just were thinking about it went sora and the guy is one of the fastest riders in the group and is well fully hooked eyeing his next bike.

I personally went all in and got a 105 Supersix. Catch is the bike shop and how good they are. Some shops push you high end. Shop I went will not tend not to put new people on high end bikes. They where fine with me going supersix as it was clear I was from the mountain biking world and was not new to cycling as was looking for a good bike. Now the only reason I have a carbon frame is that it was cheaper getting last years model in carbon than getting the current year's in aluminum


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## sadhappy (Nov 20, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> But beyond that, the level of performance of most any groupset is in the prep, installation and tuning. Once dialed in, even the lower level groupsets perform well and prove durable, with differences being in weight, finish and level of refinement as you go up the model line.
> 
> It really comes down to need versus want, and IMO most buyers _think_ they need a higher level group than they actually do. Very seldom is the bike or its components what holds a rider back. It's the 'motor'.


I'm, strictly approaching this from a perspective of durability and reliability. The experiences I'm relating have nothing whatsoever to do with performance. If I even came close to implying that, well that was an error.

Fact is, I started to have trouble with that 2300 drive-train after about 3 thousand miles. And it was wear and tear and exposure to weather issues. I've put a lot of hard miles on my 105 group and it doesn't have a single spot of rust, and with nothing more than regular cleaning and lubrication it has performed flawlessly week after week, month after month.

Durability with the 2300 group was a problem. If my experience is different than yours no worries, I just want to make sure my communication is crystal clear on this.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

sadhappy said:


> *I'm, strictly approaching this from a perspective of durability and reliability.* The experiences I'm relating have nothing whatsoever to do with performance. If I even came close to implying that, well that was an error.


I did likewise, and included the phrase "_Once dialed in, even the lower level groupsets perform well and prove durable_". As always, YMMV.



sadhappy said:


> *
> Fact is, I started to have trouble with that 2300 drive-train after about 3 thousand miles. And it was wear and tear and exposure to weather issues. I've put a lot of hard miles on my 105 group and it doesn't have a single spot of rust, and with nothing more than regular cleaning and lubrication it has performed flawlessly week after week, month after month.
> *


* 
Wear and tear/ exposure to weather (water/ grit) can mess up any drivetrain.. 2300 and DA alike. Can't explain why your 105 hasn't been adversely affected, because mine (along with Ultegra) has. Again, YMMV.*


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## tystevens (Jul 10, 2008)

Like others have said, the most important thing is to get a bike and ride it!

Newbies often stress about trying to buy their second bike first. Well, once you start riding, you're going to find what you like, don't like, need, don't need, etc. A second bike is inevitable (provided, of course, that you like the activity and want to continue), but you don't know yet what you want in a second bike.

My "first" road bike is/was an aluminum frame, Tiagra/105 parts, $950 out the door (Jamis Ventura). I put about 7500 miles on it over several years, worked great. Money well spent in my book, even if it wasn't the bike I wanted to ride forever.

I have not had lower than Tiagra parts on a bike, so I can't comment on Sora, but I would not hesitate to recommend that parts group.

Also, now can be a great time of year to find bargains, year end closeouts. My last 3 bikes (mountain and road) have been purchased in Oct/Nov. for 25-50% off retail (including the 2 bikes in my signature). You have to beat the bushes a little bit, go into bike shops and ask around, but good deals can be had.


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## Red90 (Apr 2, 2013)

As others have said, bike fit is probably the most important thing of any bike. It may feel weird to spend hours at each LBS store trying on different bikes of different sizes and makes, but that's what needs to be done to figure out which frame is appropriate for you. Please bear in mind that not all frame sizes are equal from manufacturer to manufacturer. You may fit a specialized bike in a 52cm but a cannondale in a 54cm. There is no standardized frame sizing.

If you do buy it new, make sure the LBS will spend some time to dial your fitment in. Everything from seat height, seat angle, handlebars, shifter, stem... all of that needs to be adjusted for your specific geometry

In terms of actual equipment, don't get too caught up in it. Cyclist are equipment freaks... the more you read, the more you think you need to get the Ferrari of bikes as everything else sucks. Reality is, all groupsets whether or not it's a sora, tigra or dura-ace works and gets the job of shifting done. Just like you can buy a kia or a mercedes... it still gets you from point A to point B. Most cyclist that do get into the sport do upgrade their equipment. But this is after they have determined they enjoyed the sport and the upgrades make the bike feel better (not necessarily perform faster).

You can definitely get a bike for a thousand dollars especially now where bike shops are clearing their 2013 models. However, make sure you invest in the other accessories are required and probably have more of an impact to your riding enjoyment. A set of stiff cycling shoes and cleats really changes the way the bike feels as well as good pair of cycling shorts.


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## QuiQuaeQuod (Jan 24, 2003)

Bodhi1 said:


> I'm so new at this I don't even understand some of the lingo you're using lol.


Simple advice, with no lingo:

------------------------------------------------------------

Decide how much you want to spend.

Go to a bike shop and tell them, "I would like to buy a road bike in the $X to $Y range". Test ride what they suggest. Tell them you have another shop to go to for a test ride.

Go to another bike shop, repeat.

Stop going to bike shops when you run out of shops near you. Or you fall in love with a bike.

(optional step, post on RBR about your narrowed list)

Buy the one you like the best, that feels best to you.

Ride it for a year.

Then keep riding it, or upgrade it, or get a better bike, as you see fit.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------


You don't have to sweat the details, really. tystevens explains why. Feel free to obsess of course, if you like doing so. But if you follow the advice above, it will almost certainly work to get you on the road on a bike you enjoy riding.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

^^^^^ This. ^^^^^

Bear in mind that the purpose of your first bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second bike. 

It also works when changing kinds of bikes, so the purpose of your first road bike is to teach you what you want and need in your second road bike. 

If road cycling really trips your trigger, you'll eventually want another road bike anyway, and it will be different in several ways from your first one, no matter what that first one is.

Again, don't sweat the details. Pay attention to fit and comfort. Then ride the hell out of it.


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

Being that it seems a lot of people do end up getting "upgrades" at some point, is it possible to upgrade from the Sora set if I end up not liking it after a while? I may have misread some things but it seems like some people are saying you can upgrade the tiagra but not the sora. Now I don't really understand why you would be able to upgrade one set up and not the other, but then again I don't know bikes that well. I honestly didn't understand a lot of the things mentioned in here. 

Well I definitely appreciate all of the help everyone has responded with. It basically sounds like I just need to get on a bunch of bikes and try them out, which is what I expected to do already. I feel better now, knowing that the components are really not going to make that much of a huge difference for a first bike and that it seems most people didn't really end up changing bikes or really feeling the need to upgrade until there were already a ton of miles on the original bike. My goal of course is to first see if I really end up loving the sport like most of you, so I don't want to drop all of my money on something right away. 

From what I gather, the "sora" set up is also known as the 2300 group. And the tiagra seems to be a step up from that. And the 105 group seems to be a step up from that. But for my first bike it really shouldn't make a huge difference since i'm honestly going to be focusing on building my basic riding skills for a long time anyway. It seems more important when starting out to get some good shoes, a good seat, and possibly petals to make the ride more comfortable. If this sounds about right then I have a good idea on how to start out thanks to you all. 

Last question for now: When you all refer to shoes, are you all referring to shoes that you have to get at a bike store, made specifically for biking? I honestly didn't even know they had shoes made specifically for biking lol, but it seems like the shoes make a huge difference according to a lot of what I'm reading.


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## areFish (Jun 10, 2013)

Shimano 2300 and Sora aren't one in the same. The 2300 is one step below Sora.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Some clarifications... 2300 and sora aren't the same groupset. 2300 has kept the thumb shifter and is 8 speed while Sora now uses inner/ outer levers like Tiagra, 105 and up. Sora is 9 speed. 

As far as drivetrain upgrades, most anything is possible, but once you reach 10 speed (Tiagra) going to other 10 speed drivetrains (105, Ultegra) is somewhat easier and cheaper because shifters are the most expensive component. If you decide to go with another brand (SRAM, for one) then things can get a little more complicated. 

Still, I wouldn't fret over drivetrain upgrades, because IME gaining a cog at the rear isn't all that noticeable. More important is that gearing matches the terrain and riders fitness level.

Re: shoes, no matter the pedal system chosen, a stiff soled shoe will improve comfort. Increased performance is arguable, but flexy soles can lead to foot discomfort, so something to consider.

I agree with the others that suggest going out and riding a bunch of bikes. Try race geo, relaxed (endurance) geo, shop for shops along with shopping for bikes, ask questions re: their fit process and give bonus points to shops emphasizing the importance of both test rides (out on the roads) and fit. 

Go with what fits and feels right, and you'll do fine. The important thing is to get out and ride...


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I think 2300 got made over for 2014. No more thumb shifter and now it's called Claritin. Or something.

Shimano's road components have good cross-compatibility from the first indexed 7-speed stuff through to the fanciest 10-speed groups. I'm not clear on how 11 and electronic groups fit in. Those are a little above my pay grade.

If you didn't like Sora or 2300 shifters, you could substitute any other Shimano mechanical shifter. You'd need the matching chain and cassette, but those are wear parts anyway. The derailleurs and crank are easy swaps too.

However, shifters are pretty expensive aftermarket. If you're that worried you'll have a problem with Sora, spend the extra now.

FWIW, I've ridden with down tube, bar end, Shimano and SRAM. While I prefer Shimano integrated shifters to the other options, I enjoyed riding all those bikes. In my most recent reshuffle, I also found that when it came down to it, I'd rather have an aluminum bike with a more-or less Tiagra frankendrivetrain and steel fork that fits me than a fancy steel bike with a carbon fork and 105/Ultegra drivetrain that's a size too big. I always hated paying for 10-speed cassettes anyway.

Fit's important. The contact points are important. Fancy tires are kinda fun. The rest just needs to work.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I think 2300 got made over for 2014. No more thumb shifter and now it's called Claritin. Or something.


You were close...

Shimano Claris groupset - first look - BikeRadar


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## outcast2 (Feb 22, 2012)

test ride a lot of bikes. buy the one that feels the best. adjust and fiddle with the bars and seat till they feel the best. ride the hell out of it. oh and don't wear underwear under your cycling shorts (get a pair when you buy your first roadbike the butt pad is a god send)


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## expatbrit (Oct 16, 2013)

PJ352 said:


> You were close...
> 
> Shimano Claris groupset - first look - BikeRadar


I loved the Claritin group set.


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## Red90 (Apr 2, 2013)

Just as a note, get the bike first and fitted. Ride for a while before you get the shoes and pedals. You need to first get a comfort level for the bike and its handling as well as getting used to riding a road bike and it's environment. Once your comfortable, get yourself a pair of clip on shoes and pedals. There are different types of pedals and systems from hard core cycling carbon fiber shoes to leisure pairs that you can go walking around town and work in.


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## StarTrekBiker (Oct 16, 2013)

Bodhi1 said:


> It seems more important when starting out to get some good shoes, a good seat, and possibly petals to make the ride more comfortable. If this sounds about right then I have a good idea on how to start out thanks to you all.
> 
> Last question for now: When you all refer to shoes, are you all referring to shoes that you have to get at a bike store, made specifically for biking? I honestly didn't even know they had shoes made specifically for biking lol, but it seems like the shoes make a huge difference according to a lot of what I'm reading.


I'm a relative newbie as well (only started out a few months ago). When people refer to shoes and pedals, they are referring to shoes that actually clip and lock to the pedals. You will see the term "clip-in" and "clip-less". These shoes have cleats on the soles, usually mounted somewhere near the base of your toes (a bike fitting will help you determine the best spot for you). These cleats then clip or lock into a specially designed pedal. This then 1) prevents your feet from accidentally slipping off the pedals, and 2) allows you to use both the upstroke and downstroke to power your pedaling. For roadbike shoes, the soles of these shoes are also stiff to allow maximum transfer of your power into the bike.

When you go and make your purchase, make sure you purchase pedals that are compatible with your shoes. The shoes usually come without the cleats. The cleats usually come with the pedals that you buy.

Looks like you have the right idea on what to get started on. I would add a good pair of cycling shorts with a chamois (pronounced sham-mee) to that list of yours. Oh, and these are designed to be worn next to the skin (ie no underwear).

Here's a video that I found helpful when I started riding. Rather funny too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HwWGYAYQBo


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## skitorski (Dec 4, 2012)

The "upgrade" from stock whatever to 105 is gonna cost near $500. Just sayin. I have 2,200 miles on 2300/Tiagra mix and there is no discernible wear. 2,000 noobie miles all hills and climb descent.

You will also see it said over and over here that buying the better groupset on the bike is cheaper than upgrading. This is true. That does not mean you won't find happieness upgrading, if any, as you go.

Everyone is different. As an example, I use inexpensive Performance Bike padded cycling shorts. They work fine. A friend insists you can't find anything that is worthwhile unless you spend at least $100. ??? huh ??? The Performance short is Made in USA and there is no sham ee in/on it. And on and on.


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

Realistically speaking, since you're just getting started it doesn't matter if you have Claris or Dura-Ace, until you get some miles under your belt it's all gonna be the same, but if you can afford to do it then buy the highest level components you can at the start as it'll be less expensive in the long run. Getting shoes and pedals can help your riding a lot but again, since your just getting started, don't get bogged down in the details now, I promise 9 months from now you'll decide you had rocks in your head buying certain items and should have bought "x" instead. Buying a couple pair of riding shorts (with chamois) will be a very good thing. The only problem is everybody else s recommendations are only gonna be a starting point to finding what will work for you. Best I can tell you is to initially buy inexpensive shorts at first (I like the Nashbar brand personally). They won't be the best but you get used to wearing them and how they should fit, and weather you want a thicker, thinner, different shaped chamois pad and then choose a higher level short with a clearer idea of what will work for you.


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## Blackbeerthepirate (Apr 26, 2011)

Bohdi you live in a great spot for cycling. You have Alafia, Boyette, and Ocala not too far away for the MTB. Pinellas trail, Withlacoochee, and when you get a little better Clermont for your road bike. Pinellas is probably the most n00b friendly. Lots of bailout points, places to refuel and bike shops. And unlike the guys up North hauling out their rollers, the cycling here is getting great.

When you buy a new bike, they usually give you a pretty decent discount on other stuff. So maybe budget accordingly. If you don't already have it, think helmet, shorts and something to fix a flat. The rest you can piece together later and you will probably have a better idea what will work for you after a little saddle time.

These guys have given you some fantastic advice. Just ride a bunch of bikes and find a shop that you like dealing with. Hope you find that bike that just speaks to you.


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## cowboy56 (Sep 1, 2013)

I just bought a 2013 Scott Speedster 50 last Friday and I have the Sora group with the combination shift/brake controls with the push button thumb shifters and it works great. I rode several bikes with different group sets and I actually like the push button thumb shifters. I was able to purchase my ride for $699, as it was a 2013. I believe the 2014 Sora group did away with the thumb shifter. Just remember that even entry level groups are still very good today. Like others have said, get a bike with a good fit and don't get too caught up into that group set. If you do, then go with the 105 and never look back. I know folks with thousands of miles on old Sora groups. Good luck!


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## areFish (Jun 10, 2013)

cowboy56 said:


> I believe the 2014 Sora group did away with the thumb shifter.


The 2013 Sora did away with the thumb shifters.


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## cowboy56 (Sep 1, 2013)

Your correct areFish. My shifters just say Shimano and appear to be the STI 2303 and not the Sora. Cannondale and Trek both used the same STI on their 2013 triples with the Sora group as well. Looks like they must have got a helluva deal on them. They seem to work great, so I'll cross my fingers. I new what I was getting into at this price point, so I'm ok with them.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

cowboy56 said:


> Your correct areFish. My shifters just say Shimano and appear to be the STI 2303 and not the Sora. Cannondale and Trek both used the same STI on their 2013 triples with the Sora group as well. Looks like they must have got a helluva deal on them. They seem to work great, so I'll cross my fingers. I new what I was getting into at this price point, so I'm ok with them.


The big complaint is not being able to shift from the drops. After working on it I can now. Do not ride that bike much anymore but it still works for me and while I prefer Sram shifting, I do not dislike Sora as much as I used to.


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

So I went with the 2013 cannondale synapse 105. I went to several bike shops and liked this bike a lot. It came down to a trek madone or domane, something like that, vs this cannondale. Both were about the same price. The trek had tiara, the frames felt similar, but the 105 shifted smoother from what I could tell. Also the shop with the cannondale seemed to spend more time fitting me for the bike and going over things with me.


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## cowboy56 (Sep 1, 2013)

Excellent choice on the Synapse. The Synapse with the 105 was getting out of my price range, as they only had 2014's and no bargains to be had. You'll enjoy that one!


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## Fireform (Dec 15, 2005)

Bodhi1 said:


> So I went with the 2013 cannondale synapse 105. I went to several bike shops and liked this bike a lot. It came down to a trek madone or domane, something like that, vs this cannondale. Both were about the same price. The trek had tiara, the frames felt similar, but the 105 shifted smoother from what I could tell. Also the shop with the cannondale seemed to spend more time fitting me for the bike and going over things with me.


You got a very good bike, and it sounds like a good shop in the bargain. Nice job.


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## expatbrit (Oct 16, 2013)

Sounds like a great bike!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Bodhi1 said:


> So I went with the 2013 cannondale synapse 105.


Congrats.. _nice_ choice! Post pics when you get a chance.


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

cowboy56 said:


> Excellent choice on the Synapse. The Synapse with the 105 was getting out of my price range, as they only had 2014's and no bargains to be had. You'll enjoy that one!


yea I got it on sale. I think it was 1519.00 originally, on sale for 1139.00. I bought the bike, shoes and a nice set of pedals and it all came out to about a hundred less than the bikes original price after taxes. 



PJ352 said:


> Congrats.. _nice_ choice! Post pics when you get a chance.


will post pics soon


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## Bodhi1 (Nov 21, 2013)

Now I just need to find some places to ride around the Tampa Bay Area and maybe some people to ride with and I'll be set.


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## Social Climber (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm sure the bike shop could recommend some routes, and maybe also some local clubs. They may even have their own shop rides.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

I'm not going to rock the boat too much on this, but two component groupsets that I consider to be the gold star value when it comes to performance and durability are Shimano 105 and Sram Rival. Sram Force is my all-time favorite groupset for what you get at the the price, but I understand that it's not in everyone's budget. You can sometimes find great deals on 105 and/or Rival sets on ebay new or like new and can slowly piece a set together. That way you can get the best bike you can afford now and slowly piece together a better groupset if that's important to you and be riding in the interim. Just a thought.


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