# cutting to save weight



## ansetou (Jul 17, 2009)

I'm curious to find out if anyone has done such thing as to cut some unnecessary part of a component to save some weight. I'd guess this would only apply to metal parts as CF may crack. 

This is the cheapest way to upgrade. For example, I was looking at my seat post last night and thought I can cut about 2 inches from the bottom without risking anything. The way I ride, I have about 5 inches of it inside the seat tube. About 3" from the bottom is where the Min mark is. This means as long as I keep about 2 1/2 " of it in the seat tube, it's safe. Therefore, I can take cut off the extra 2" to save that much weight. I might have just done an upgrade equivalent to switching from the cheapest part to a medium part in terms of weight saving. I can see how this can be especially great for steel bikes as you get to keep the same steel feel while getting closer to aluminum in weight.

Another thought is to cut the end of the drop handle bar. I see there are about 1" at the end of each drop that I will not need to hold my bike. typically when I ride in the lowest position, I'll hold the farthest part of the drop so that my index and middle fingers can easily reach the brake levers. 

I can't cut my stem as I've maxed out the height but anyone has extra length left in it can consider that. 

of course the draw back of this approach is you have no expandability. And if you ever want to sell it, it can be a problem. But for someone who plans to keep the bike until the end, why not?


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## Guest (Jul 23, 2009)

Trimming off extra seatpost length is pretty common. Cutting carbon fiber properly can be easier than metal if you are using hand tools as its not as much work to cut through.

I like to use the longer lower part of drops when I am on flatter ground and don't need quick access to the brakes so I have always preferred to keep that. It also provides and alternative hand position on longer rides.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Way back when drilling out parts was common as a way to save a few grams..

Drilled out chainrings, cranks, brake levers, and seat posts were a common site...

Google "drillium"...


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## ansetou (Jul 17, 2009)

http://www.velo-retro.com/peterjohnson.html

WOW, that's a lot of drilling. haha, but i'm more looking at weight saving w/o sacrificing manufacture standard of safety. However, come to think of it, for the same frame, the manufacture probably has to design for a, say, 250-lb rider when I'm only 175 lb. so I can consider drilling a bit too  

I like those drilled crank arms, spider, and brake level.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

On one bike that I had assembled I used a mountain bike seatpost on it. It was really long so I cut it off to fit the road bike better. Keep in mind that this was no weight-weenie post. I weighed the portion that I cut off and it weighed a little over an ounce (32 grams, if my memory serves me). The section of seatpost was about 3 inches long (75mm) aluminum and 27.2mm diameter. The wall thickness was a bit more than 1/8", about 4mm. It's hardly worth the effort and you will have a difficult time reselling it later if you choose to upgrade.

That's the problem with drillium. By drilling aluminum you are not really reducing the weight by much unless you drill a lot of it out. You then end up with a part that is not all that much lighter than it started off at but is much more fragile because of all of the holes you've drilled into it. You're better off replacing steel parts with aluminum or titanium.

I once "tuned" the Strong seatpost that is on my old Stumpie. After cutting the post down, milling the seat clamp, milling the top of the post behind where the seat clamp rests, and drilling a hole into the steel bolt to hollow it out, I shaved a whopping 50 or so grams. Two ounces. Now I have a seatpost that I probably would never be able to sell if I want to and it still weighs 250 grams.


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## ansetou (Jul 17, 2009)

in my case I bought a used bike and I think i'll end up throwing away old parts if I do upgrade them so reselling is not much of a concern except for the frame and the moving parts. 

I think, if I ever find the time and enthusiasm, i'll drill the brake level and maybe the seat post, just for fun.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Don't drill the seatpost above the seat tube juncture. It will allow water and all kinds of crap into the frame. If you have access to a mill and a ball-end mill then cut flutes into the side of the post where it is exposed to the world.


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## ansetou (Jul 17, 2009)

never thought of it this. I guess I should try pour some water out of my tube as I left it on the balcony overnight when it was raining and I had the seat removed.


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

You can do it. You can save a minuscule amount of weight, but unless you're doing it as an exercise, why? If you're training a couple of thousand miles a month, at the absolute top of your form, and down to 3% body fat it might give you a psychological boost, but I doubt it will help much from a practical standpoint, none at all if you're an average rider- I just don't think you can get enough weight off to make a difference. If you're not the athlete I described cutting out the cheesecake and switching from greasy burgers to firm tofu will to a lot more for you.


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## iliveonnitro (Feb 19, 2006)

ansetou said:


> http://www.velo-retro.com/peterjohnson.html
> 
> WOW, that's a lot of drilling. haha, but i'm more looking at weight saving w/o sacrificing manufacture standard of safety. However, come to think of it, for the same frame, the manufacture probably has to design for a, say, 250-lb rider when I'm only 175 lb. so I can consider drilling a bit too
> 
> I like those drilled crank arms, spider, and brake level.


You're 175lbs and you want to drill holes in your equipment?

How about you drop 30lbs, first.


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

ansetou said:


> in my case I bought a used bike and I think i'll end up throwing away old parts if I do upgrade them so reselling is not much of a concern except for the frame and the moving parts.
> 
> I think, if I ever find the time and enthusiasm, i'll drill the brake level and maybe the seat post, just for fun.


And what happens when you need to make that emergency stop and your brake levers bend or break? You'll end up saving some more weight by getting rid of a few of those extra teeth


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## ansetou (Jul 17, 2009)

haha, how do you know i haven't already dropped that 30 lbs and has only 3% body fat? i guess my point is I am where I am, that oz helps no matter if i'm 175 or 145 (that's scary weight for a 5'11 guy imo)


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

I remember the drilling craze from years ago. Didn't they realize that the turbulence created by all those holes would negate any weight savings.


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## andrew9223 (Jun 16, 2009)

take a dump right before you go ride.


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

ansetou said:


> haha, how do you know i haven't already dropped that 30 lbs and has only 3% body fat? i guess my point is I am where I am, that oz helps no matter if i'm 175 or 145 (that's scary weight for a 5'11 guy imo)


Let's call it a hunch. If you have, post your routine in the training nutrition section, but if it involves drilling I'm out.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Body parts*

True story. There used to be a guy who raced around here who had lost an arm somehow. Only needed half a handlebar. Some aero advantage there, too. He was a pretty strong rider.

Not really helpful advice, sorry.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

JCavilia said:


> True story. There used to be a guy who raced around here who had lost an arm somehow. Only needed half a handlebar. Some aero advantage there, too. He was a pretty strong rider.
> 
> Not really helpful advice, sorry.


There you go. Have a kidney removed. Thats bound to shed weight. You can keep it in the fridge incase you make a bad choice and cut out the strong one.


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## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

The whole drillium craze was more about personalization that true weight savings. Weight was saved for sure though. Take a look at Eddy Merckx hour record bike sometime. Even the bars were drilled. He was fairly noted for drillium used in race conditions.
As to the question, your seat post needs to be only so long.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

http://www.tearsforgears.com/2005/09/drillium-info.html


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## lucer0 (Apr 13, 2007)

I saw a guy with a prosthetic arm at one race - had both of his 7900 shifters on the right side of the bars. He beat me. Must have been the weight savings  

There's nothing wrong with hacksawing a seatpost as long as you keep the "minimum insertion" amount inside the frame. Different hacksaw blades for metal and carbon though.


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## Zachariah (Jan 29, 2009)

I agree your body should match the bike, for the best of weight optimization. Once I lost 70 lbs, I "rewarded" myself with a 19-pound XC race MTB.

Ride a heavier bike to get the base fitness and lose weight first.


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## Davoosie (Mar 17, 2007)

Water weighs quite a bit, ditch the water bottles and cages, do you really need bar tape and hoods? You can prob. deal with a front brake only and why you're at it, strip your frame of all the paint and decals


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## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

People actually do that you know.


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