# Sram 11-28 to 11-32



## redondoaveb

I've got Sram Apex with a Force crank (50-34) and 1050 11-28 cassette. Looking at changing the cassette to 1070 11-32. Any problems (chain length, derailleurs)?


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## RussellS

redondoaveb said:


> I've got Sram Apex with a Force crank (50-34) and 1050 11-28 cassette. Looking at changing the cassette to 1070 11-32. Any problems (chain length, derailleurs)?


In theory you don't have to get a longer chain if you never shift into the 50x32 combination. Assume the current chain will fit 50x28 OK. But in practice you should put a longer chain on the bike. Your rear derailleur will most likely shift to the 32 cog just fine. Even if its a short cage rear derailleur. Try it to verify before wasting money on a long cage rear derailleur. The long cage will take up more chain slack so you can use the 34 ring with the 11-12-13-14-15-16 cogs without the chain dragging. But the short cage rear derailleur will work fine if you just don't use the small cogs with the 34 ring.


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## redondoaveb

I would like to use as many gear combinations as possible without shifting, cross chaining problems. I see on the Sram site that the medium cage is specifically made for 11-32 cogs. Do you still think I should try the 11-32 with the short cage before investing in the medium cage. 

Thanks for your help.


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## a_avery007

need Apex rear, any other will not work! unless you want to find out the hard way..

get a longer chain if you want to use 32t, 28t to 32t is a big jump.


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## asad137

a_avery007 said:


> need Apex rear, any other will not work!


There is a Rival mid-cage derailleur as well that has the range for an 11-32.

Asad


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## tosa

Would this 11-32 or 11-28 work with a standard double crank (assuming correct chain length)? Would a Shimano GS rear derailleur work with the 11-32? And what is the consensus on gear spacing on these cassettes...is it too wide a jump between gears? Does anyone miss the 14t that's not on the 11-32?


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## ultimobici

redondoaveb said:


> I've got Sram Apex with a Force crank (50-34) and 1050 11-28 cassette. Looking at changing the cassette to 1070 11-32. Any problems (chain length, derailleurs)?


If you change just the cassette and already have a medium cage mech then the chain length is fine.

More tot the point though, what are you climbing that requires a jump from 28 to 32?


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## a_avery007

thanks for the information but that won't work, checked with my main mechanic before trying this one.


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## redondoaveb

ultimobici said:


> If you change just the cassette and already have a medium cage mech then the chain length is fine.
> 
> More tot the point though, what are you climbing that requires a jump from 28 to 32?


 So far, 19% has been max. I'm a fairly new road bike rider and am riding with some really strong riders. Just looking for a little help while I build up my strength and endurance. Not sold on the 11-32 idea, just mulling some options.


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## rcordray

My previous setup on my 2006 Orbea Opal was:
Red Shifters
Red Derailleurs
Force 34-50 Compact Crank
Force 11-28 Cassette.

Then, 10 months ago, I shattered my right femur in a high-speed skiing fall. 7 hours of reconstructive surgery with a plate and 21 screws led to 7 months of crutches, no cycling (except indoor recumbent until healing and bone-regrowth was assured.)

2 1/2 months ago I was given the green-light to begin riding again. I normally prefer riding hills in the Southern California mountains with gradients up to 18%, but I knew that my recovery would start very gradually mostly on flat terrain as I rebuilt my fitness over many weeks. Hills would come slowly, but when they did return to my workouts, I decided that I would prefer a lower climbing gear (although my 34-28 was already considered pretty low.) On hills, I wanted to stay in the saddle and spin for as long as possible as opposed to getting up out of the saddle and pounding my damaged leg.

I switched my rear derailleur to a Rival Mid-Cage and my rear cassette to an 11-32.
This required a new, longer chain. While I was at it, I replaced my (very) used Force chainrings which were showing obvious signs of aging and wear.

The upside: 
I am loving the climbing gears. I am able to stay in the saddle and spin at higher rpms. I have re-introduced hills to the workouts and it's hugely fun to climb the steeps with what is essentially the gear ratios of a triple crankset.

The downside:
On the flats, I will admit that there are some large gaps in the gearing. When riding paceline within a group, it's not always possible to find exactly the most comfortable gearing to maintain the speed and cadence you seek. I find myself shifting a lot more than I would prefer to keep my output consistent. 
Also, the shifting is not great. The combination of the Rival-level rear derailleur and the large gaps of gearing on the rear 11-32 cassette cause frequent mis-shifts that I don't remember from my previous Red derailleur and 11-28. These occur when lifting the chain to the next larger rear cog. The shifter/derailleur requires a little finesse to keep the chain from dropping back down to a smaller/harder cog. I find myself going up two cogs so that the chain will drop back only one and end up where I wanted it in the first place.

Summary:
Love the climbing gears, but as soon as the leg is strong again, I will likely swap back to the Red rear derailleur and the 11-28 cassette.


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## Wicked2006

I would go 11-28 though I'm riding a 11-26! Truly the 11-26 is more then a enough for me at the moment. 

On those huge climbs the 11-28 would be very nice to have. That's going to be my next cassette hook up along with a new wheel-set.


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## redondoaveb

Thanks for all the info guys, I decided to stay with the 11-28. Legs are getting stronger, rode some hills the other day and most of the time I didn't need the 28. Actually, I'm thinking that since I hardly use the 11 cog, I might invest in another rear wheel and a 12-25 cassette and use that set up for flats and the 11-28 for my hill rides. I'm finding that with the 11-28 and the big gaps between cogs, sometimes I can't find a good ratio on the flats. I think the 12-25 would work a lot better in this situation. What do you guys think?


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## asad137

Sounds like a good plan -- maybe check that the 12-25 cassette has the right ratios for the situations you're often in.

Also don't forget that you should probably adjust your b-screw when swapping cassettes.

Asad


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## redondoaveb

asad137 said:


> Sounds like a good plan -- maybe check that the 12-25 cassette has the right ratios for the situations you're often in.
> 
> Also don't forget that you should probably adjust your b-screw when swapping cassettes.
> 
> Asad


11-28 ratio's- 11,12,13,14,15,17,19, 22, 25, 28
12-25 ratio's- 12,13,14,15,16,17,19, 21, 23, 25

Of course I don't need the 28 on flats and I hate the three tooth jump after the 19th tooth on the 11-28. I've found that the only time I'm on the 11 is downhill. So, my thinking is that the 12-25 would be good choice. Of course I would still have a spare wheel with the 11-28 for hill climbs.


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## redondoaveb

If I change out my 11-28 to a 12-25 do I need to change the lock ring also? Thanks for the help.


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## AJL

redondoaveb said:


> If I change out my 11-28 to a 12-25 do I need to change the lock ring also? Thanks for the help.


Lock rings usually come with the cassette (at least w/retail cassettes).


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## redondoaveb

AJL said:


> Lock rings usually come with the cassette (at least w/retail cassettes).


 Cassette was taken off a new bike that was changed out to a different cassette. Lock ring is not included.


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## redondoaveb

Just found out, lock ring is included :thumbsup:


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## ziscwg

asad137 said:


> There is a Rival mid-cage derailleur as well that has the range for an 11-32.
> 
> Asad



I have this with my Force group and I can confirm it works very well. I have a Force short cage that never made it out of the box.


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## roadie01

Nice job redondoaveb in getting stronger. Keep working at it and you'll be on an 11/25 in no time. 

I run a 11/26 Force cassette with a compact 50/34 crank on my new ride and find the gear jump similar to the scenario below. 

I came from a DuraAce 12/28 with a standard 53/39 on my previous ride. Either way there was a two to three tooth jump in the larger cogs. In a paceline the larger two cog jump didn't make much difference I either had to spin at 100+ RPM or under 90 RPM. Alone was a different story what I learned to do was split the time and spin faster to maintain a MPH no more than 1.5 MPH under the next higher gear. While in the next higher gear I would try to maintain 90 to 93 RPM. This would put me on the rivet so to speak. After a month or so of riding 5 to 8 minute intervals in the harder/higher gear I was able to ride this gear just below max HR. I'm sure more training like this and I would have been cruising easily at 23 MPH in the 17-16 cogs.


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