# Headset adjustment on Tarmac SL4 Expert 2013



## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Working my way through a build of a Tarmac frame. Ambitious (given my lack of experience) but getting there slowly. I have what I think to be a problem trying to adjust the threadless headset in that I cannot get a level of smoothness that I am used to on my Allez Comp 2014. 

I have done the following;

Pulled out the headset and carefully kept all of the pieces in order of removal. They seem to match the Specialized tech sheet checklist. 
Popped the seals on the upper and lower bearings, cleaned them out with degreaser and once clean, packed them out with Teflon grease. Bearings seems relatively good - could not feel any undue roughness and there did not seem to be much muck in them - but wondering just how good given what I am trying to solve. 
Cleaned the various races upper and lower then greased all, plus light layer of grease on all metal pieces. 
Reassembled and fitted the stem loosely on top of the spacers with the top of the stem above the top of the headset. 
Fitted cap and tightened top bolt.Before I begin the tightening, there is no rocking or looseness that I can feel at all. Everything seems to seat OK 
I only need to tighten a turn or two once it begins to take up before I can feel a slight binding of the bearings. Loosen off a bit and the binding disappears, so seem to have the tension point right at that stage. However, any further backing off and the top cap moves quite freely indicating that the bolt is not putting any pressure on. 
I have popped in a wheel and tilted the frame up on the workstand and the wheel finds the lowest point of gravity, but is not that loose it falls quickly. 

The fork rotates quite freely around 180 degrees and is no better or worse off in any particular position. However, I continue to get a slight noise when I make the rotation. Not bad but still does not seem right. 

My only point of comparison is my alloy Specialized Allez and a Giant hybrid, both of which have forks that rotate freely and without any noise at all. 

Can anyone give me some feedback on this issue? Is there something I have done wrong or a step I have missed somewhere? 

Thanks


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Regardless, it sounds like a bad lower bearing. I'd suggest a new headset, or just replace the bearing.


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Thanks - yes, it seemed to me that it was either dodgy bearings or I was doing something wrong. Hoping it was the former....


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Is it a Spesh multi angular stem with the camber adjustment sleeve in it? Forget what they call it, sorry. And if yes, where is the sleeve, under or over ?

EDIT:
Spesh site archive lists that bike as having the multi angle shim/stem. I have seen the shim get put in from the top instead of up from the bottom causing havoc.


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Not that I am aware of. The setup seemed pretty straightforward. Below the headtube on the steering tube is a bearing which sits into the integrated race. Above the headtube, there is a bearing which sits into the other integrated race, a compression ring, a thin metal spacer, three carbon spacers, and the top cap/top bolt. 
When I put it together, it all seems to fit pretty snugly - simply the noise coming from each time I turn. Have just put in a Praxis BB set and that is in stark contrast - so smooth.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Jester45 said:


> Above the headtube, there is a bearing which sits into the other integrated race, a compression ring, a thin metal spacer, three carbon spacers, and the top cap/top bolt.


I missed the part where you mention the stem and angle adjusting sleeve being inserted from the bottom or in from the top....


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Hope I have not misunderstood but I don't believe I have an angle adjusting sleeve


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Jester45 said:


> Hope I have not misunderstood but I don't believe I have an angle adjusting sleeve



What is the stem, is it not a Specialized, the original?

To keep form going back and forth a few more times, this is the type of stem to which I refer pictured below. The sleeve needs to be under was my entire point.

Sorry if it took a little long to get it there.


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Sorry if I was being a bit thick. To explain, I have purchased a second hand frame with original fork but no stem or seat post. Have purchased a separate/used S-works stem and it does NOT have an adjustable sleeve. Does that help?


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Jester45 said:


> Sorry if I was being a bit thick. To explain, I have purchased a second hand frame with original fork but no stem or seat post. Have purchased a separate/used S-works stem and it does NOT have an adjustable sleeve. Does that help?


So with this type of spesh stem not being in the equation, my point is moot.


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Yep. Back to bearings?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

The only step I'm not seeing is where you'd tighten the stem bolts after setting preload. That may not be the cause or source of the noise, but a critical step, nonetheless.

That aside, given your scenario (buying used, unknown history) I'd replace both upper and lower cartridge bearings (not JUST the bearings) for a new (to me) build.


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Yes, have covered that as well (tightening the stem bolts). Your suggestion is the right one - for the sake of a couple of bearings, much easier course of action. Took them both out tonight and my money is on the lower one being at fault but regardless will do both. Thanks for this. 
Out of interest, is there an identification number for these bearings? Looked really carefully over them and could not see anything. As well as a different size, they both have quite different profiles to fit each shell. Assume that the best option is to simply take them to a Spesh dealer as is and ask for replacements? 
Appreciate the assistance.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

If it's convenient, yes go to a dealer, otherwise Cane Creek have a lot of helpful info on their site. You could call them to verify what you need.

SHIS Overview


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

Unfortunately, based in Australia so no Cane Creek (that I am aware of anyway) but easy to pop into a Specialized dealer. Found all the bearing specs on a download on their website but will take the old ones along to check and save any grief later on..
Thanks.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Your later post suggests you've found this, but just in case....

http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/CC0280_2013_RevB.pdf

I agree that Specialized shops would be the better option for bearing replacement - at least they were IME.

EDIT: Also, I suggest providing the LBS with the critical dimensions. You may be surprised to find out you know more about the bearings than they do. 

Upper:
Part # TEX-5BR418H8F
ACB 41.8*8mm*45D

Lower:
Part # TEX-3801
ACB 49*7*37*45D


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## Jester45 (Oct 29, 2014)

I had to laugh - yes, I was surprised and yes, you were exactly right about knowing more than they did (well, everyone other than a specialist in the workshop who did know his bearings well but found it helpful to have the originals to match to). Only had in a headset pack which cost a small fortune, but thankfully the right ones.
Fitted and I now have a very smooth running headset, with no noise, adjustment feels right (was certainly easier than with the earlier bearings) and can now continue the build. Thanks to all for assistance.


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