# Criterium wheels



## FTR (Sep 20, 2006)

Firstly sorry if this has been covered ad nauseum (and I am sure it has but the search function sucks).
Looking to get myself a set of carbon wheels that will only be used for criterium racing but am not really sure what rim height to get.
Those threads that I have seen seem to flip flop between heavier taller rim height for aero reasons and lighter and lower rim height for its ability to spin up faster. Obviously as a result I am totally confused as to which way to jump as a result.
I am also having the same issue with deciding between clincher and tubular. There seems to be as many pro's as con's in this argument. 

HELP!!!!!!!! I really dont know which way to go here.


----------



## coachboyd (Jan 13, 2008)

I like to go with a bit deeper for wheels in a criterium. I used a 58mm tubular for almost every crit (and most road races) last year. The main reason (in my opinion) to stay away from the really deep rims would be control if it were windy. This will be dependent on your size and bike handling ability as well.

If you are using these for events only, then tubulars are the way to go. You can have a lighter weight wheelset, meaning that you can go a bit deeper without a large weight penalty. It can be a hassle to glue them up but they really do ride nicely, especially if you have a good tire on them.


----------



## jtimmer1 (Mar 28, 2009)

How tall are you and how much do you weigh?


----------



## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

My suggestion: ride what you can afford to crash on and ruin. 

It happens

M


----------



## FTR (Sep 20, 2006)

jtimmer1 said:


> How tall are you and how much do you weigh?


6'2" 83kg


----------



## Bridgey (Mar 26, 2003)

50mm. The best of both worlds. Weight plus aero. Can still use them in the mountains if you wish as well


----------



## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

Aluminum clinchers, 2 cross in the front min 3 in the back amd a good selection of tires. The use of clinchers means you can change tires out based on course and conditions (I have a set of tires I use for rain). Using a wheel set taht can be rebuilt or repaired makse sense if you racing since the chances that you will crash are higher. An alu breaking surface is also more predictable in the rain (tho I have had good luck with Reynolds and Swiss stop bads even in the wet).


----------



## jtimmer1 (Mar 28, 2009)

Honestly, from your size, and what I have experiences, I think that either Zipp 404 or Reynolds Strike wheelsets would suit you well. If you are concerned about weight, just get them in tubular. Both are very aero, and at your size, you should have little problem spinning them up.


----------



## FTR (Sep 20, 2006)

OK so it sounds like most are saying 50mm to 60mm deep.
My only concern with tubulars is that I like to ride from home to the track as a warm up and worry that I could flat on the way there.
Having never ridden a tubular before, how much of an issue is this really?
Or am I just better to get clinchers and good tyres??


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

MShaw said:


> My suggestion: ride what you can afford to crash on and ruin.
> 
> It happens
> 
> M



+1. I'm hardly a crit guy, although I've been tempted to look at a few wheel sets with replacement warranties. My Mavics were ungodly expensive, but the warranty came in handy when I snapped some spokes on the back wheel.


----------



## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

get clinchers and aero beats weight for crits. Ones that aren't ungodly expensive include Reynolds Strike, Mavic Carbone SL, Hed Jet 6, CC has Sram 60s on sale (but they are heavier than the others).


----------



## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

If you're riding in a pack, aero doesn't really do anything. The sponsored guys are riding mid-height carbon tubulars, most of the other non-sponsored contenders are riding 32 spoke alloy tubulars or clinchers. Get something you don't mind crashing and can be fixed at a LBS. I love alloy box rim tubulars with conti competitions for criteriums.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

bigbill said:


> If you're riding in a pack, aero doesn't really do anything.


Agree, if that's where the OP finds himself most of the time. Add to that the many decelerations and subsequent accelerations you'll do in a crit if you're pack fodder (especially at the rear), and lower weight could actually make some sense. While aero will beat weight as said, it would only do so decisively if the rider's speed is relatively constant (meaning riding near the front of the pack) and/or there's lots of bridging gaps or going off the front. Agree with the clincher recommendation; for now, anyway.


----------



## FTR (Sep 20, 2006)

bigbill said:


> If you're riding in a pack, aero doesn't really do anything. The sponsored guys are riding mid-height carbon tubulars, most of the other non-sponsored contenders are riding 32 spoke alloy tubulars or clinchers. Get something you don't mind crashing and can be fixed at a LBS. I love alloy box rim tubulars with conti competitions for criteriums.


This advice is in line with my friend who is an A-grade racer and has raced World Championships at a Masters level.
I am now leaning very heavily to handbuilt alloy tubulars such as 32 hole Velocity Escapes laced 3 cross.
Not sure on hubs.


----------



## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

yes, but the pack comments neglect the fact that the crucial moments during a crit are when you need to get across a gap, bridge up, find the rider in front of you has let a gap open and you need to jump around him into the wind. 

If you want to go alloy, just get something like the kinlin 300, laced with cx or aerolite (28 hole would be fine). There's no real advantage to tubular for crits.


----------



## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

stevesbike said:


> yes, but the pack comments neglect the fact that the crucial moments during a crit are when you need to get across a gap, bridge up, find the rider in front of you has let a gap open and you need to jump around him into the wind.
> 
> If you want to go alloy, just get something like the kinlin 300, laced with cx or aerolite (28 hole would be fine). There's no real advantage to tubular for crits.


If the reason for being unable to close a gap or bridge up in a crit is because you weren't riding aero profile wheels, you weren't going to be able to close the gap anyway or you messed up and put yourself in a bad position. Closing a gap is about acceleration and keeping yourself in a good position during the race. Unless you intend to go off the front in the first couple of laps and stay away, aero does nothing for you. 

Criteriums are where tubulars are ideal. Superior cornering, light weight, and typically crit courses are swept clean so no punctures. Tubulars are also nice on courses with rough sections where your line might take you through potholes since tubulars don't pinch flat like clinchers.


----------



## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

Despite what I said above, I ride Ritchey Pro wheels when I'm racing crits. Aero enough to be aero, but not heavy enough that its tough to get em spun up.

I've raced 404s, 303s, and other box-section rims. Of all of em, the 404s were the fastest by far. Had a pair of Shamals at the same time I had my 404s. Really, really aero at speed but a PITA to get em there.

M


----------



## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

bigbill said:


> If the reason for being unable to close a gap or bridge up in a crit is because you weren't riding aero profile wheels, you weren't going to be able to close the gap anyway or you messed up and put yourself in a bad position. Closing a gap is about acceleration and keeping yourself in a good position during the race. Unless you intend to go off the front in the first couple of laps and stay away, aero does nothing for you.
> 
> Criteriums are where tubulars are ideal. Superior cornering, light weight, and typically crit courses are swept clean so no punctures. Tubulars are also nice on courses with rough sections where your line might take you through potholes since tubulars don't pinch flat like clinchers.


why do people say things like 'aero does nothing for you?" Of course it does. A typical rider would have to generate 30 more watts to hit 50km/hr with a standard wheelset vs. something like a 404. Lots of times in crits the difference between bridging up to a break or even closing a gap is pretty small. The fact of the matter is that an aero wheelset gives you some advantage.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

stevesbike said:


> why do people say things like 'aero does nothing for you?" Of course it does. A typical rider would have to generate 30 more watts to hit 50km/hr with a standard wheelset vs. something like a 404. Lots of times in crits the difference between bridging up to a break or even closing a gap is pretty small. The fact of the matter is that an aero wheelset gives you some advantage.


Agreed. Yes, it's true that you don't notice aero benefits when you're hiding in the pack, but you don't always get the luxury of hiding until the last moment.


----------

