# Breakaway CX for Touring



## Stumpy2011

I'm looking at the cross model for the purpose of 2-3 weeks touring in Europe.
Will that be a good bike for the above purpose ?
Will it accept a standard rack and rear panniers ?
How about front panniers ?

Also what do you do with the soft case once you start the tour ?
Do you ship it to the final destination ?
For 2013, are the Airlines still accepting it as standard luggage ?

Thanks in advance for your response.


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## Stumpy2011

No Breakaway owners out here ?


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## flatlander_48

Stumpy2011 said:


> No Breakaway owners out here ?


Yes, but mine was well before the CX model was introduced. I don't do touring, so your situation never came up. All my trips are traveling somewhere by air or car where I'm going to be anywhere from a couple of days to several months.

The last time I traveled with the bike was domestically on US Air last February. It was charged as a regular piece of additional luggage. They didn't ask what was in it and I didn't volunteer.

One piece of advice that I would offer:

If you buy the BreakAway, as you are packing it, remove the rear derailleur. Do *NOT* undo the cable. Just unbolt the derailleur and wrap it in padded material. The derailleur winds up on the bottom when packed. If the bag is dropped (highly likely during baggage handling), it will act to try to collapse the derailleur further. On my Campagnolo parts, a stop tab in the die casting was broken off. This happened twice before I started removing the derailleur. No broken derailleurs after that. Also, by not undoing the cable, you don't have to re-adjust it after re-assembly.


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## Stumpy2011

*Bab cx*

Thanks for the tip ! 
Makes a lot of sense, the Derailleur Hanger is pretty delicate and can Snap or bend easily upon a medium impact.

My BAB CX are on its way and should arrive as early as Monday.
I will need to get a rear Rack (maybe the Avenir one) and a set of Fenders for Rainy days...
Maybe the SKS Receblades.


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## flatlander_48

No, it didn't hurt the hanger and there was something else I forgot to mention. I didn't like the idea of leaving the chain on the bike when packed, so originally when I was running 10sp Centaur, I got a Wippermann chain with the Connex removable link. That way I could remove and install the chain without pressing out pins. I could also place it in its own bag and keep it from getting anything else greasy. Wippermann isn't doing an 11sp chain last I checked, so I currently have a Chorus chain with an 11sp KMC Missing Link. The Missing Link is harder for me to install and remove, so I bought KMC's Open and Close pliers (sort of like snap ring pliers). I think they sell for $12 to $15 each. Also, I never noticed any difference in running non-Campagnolo drive parts.

So, without the chain on the bike, the springs on the rear derailleur make it fold up. Little tabs on the body limit how much it folds up. If the bike gets dropped while packed, these tabs will break off well before there would be any hint of damage to the hanger. And, once the tabs break off, the derailleur is rendered useless.


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## Stumpy2011

Thanks
Here is a another great tip I picked up
Security Net used to protect your bike if TSA opens the case
The net allows the bike parts to be removed from the case for inspection while still being held together.


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## flatlander_48

Note that S&S equipped bikes pack very differently from a BreakAway. With the BreakAway the wheels go in first, then the cover mat and then it is strapped down. The rest of the bike goes on top of that and is strapped down separately. There are videos and a PDF sheet that explain the process on the Ritchey site.


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## Stumpy2011

Thanks,
Yes, I am aware of that, but I believe that I read somewhere, that using the Ritchey Bag with S&S packaging method is the best combo.
Does it makes sense ?


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## flatlander_48

http://www.ritcheylogic.com/media/File/4010_bab_packing_instructions.pdf

Note Steps 3 and 8. Each level is fastened down to the luggage. Also, the handlebars curve around so that they are partially under the wheels. Hard to see how you could pull everything out and then put it back. The only way that I can think of is if the bottom strap that goes over the wheels is not used at that point. Basically in Step 8 you would use both straps to hold down everything. Taking it out might not be a problem, but I think putting it back would be.

Note that the S&S luggage is square and the Ritchey one is rectangular. This is because the wheels nest differently. For the S&S, the axles are in a straight line. On the Ritchey the axles are offset by a few inches. If everything came out of the Ritchey luggage as a unit, you have to make sure that the cluster goes back in the well the same way. If not, you won't be able to close it and zip it up. Ritchey has (or had?) a piece that did not have the cluster well, but I've never seen one before; just on the web site. I don't know if that would pack any differently.


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## Stumpy2011

Flatlander, 
I see that your drive train is setup with F50/34 and R12/29
Mine are arriving tomorrow with Dura ace F:53/39 F and R:12/28 (I bought a used bike)
I am pretty concerned that even a lower gear ratio like yours will be too difficult for touring with medium weight luggage.
The last tour we did in France we rented bikes with 3x9 drive-train F48/36/26 and R11/32, low level components (Alivio ?) and it works with no issues.
What will be the most cost effective to lower the gear ratio on my bikes ?
Rear? Front? both ?


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## flatlander_48

Sorry, I've been away for a few days...

What you would have to do is go to the Shimano site or to someone really in the know about their products. One of the problems that you run into is that a rear derailleur may not be able to take up enough chain given the spread in tooth count. Originally I spec'ed 10sp 53/39 and 12-25. On short steep climbs my cadence would get VERY slow. That was when I went to a 53/42/30 with the same cassette. In 10sp Campagnolo did short, medium and long cages (length between the idlers) for the rear derailleur. I had a medium, but I had to go with the long cage model in order to take up enough chain. However, Capmagnolo's 11sp is different. When I upgraded, the 11sp triple wasn't out and I was forced to do a compact crank. Also, I was trying to look forward to moving to the EPS system and that wasn't set up to do triples; at least not yet.

Anyway, that's what you would need to find out. Judging by the numbers, that Alivio group seems to be more like something you would find on a mountain bike. Some people have run road brake/shifters with mountain bike rear derailleurs in order to get lower gearing, but I don't remember which parts they used.

I don't think, but I am not sure, you can use flat bar brake/shifter units with road handlebars. Search around as I have seen threads posing the question, but i don't know what the answer was.

Hard to say which way is less expensive. Check one of the online stores and compare prices in the same group. That will give you an idea of what a new cassette and rear derailleur would go for compared to a new crank and front derailleur.


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## Ritchey_Dave

Something also worth noting, the carbon fork that comes with the frame is not meant for heavy touring loads. If you plan on putting a lot of weight in the front, I'd suggest replacing the fork with as steel one or something made for touring.


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## Stumpy2011

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Something also worth noting, the carbon fork that comes with the frame is not meant for heavy touring loads. If you plan on putting a lot of weight in the front, I'd suggest replacing the fork with as steel one or something made for touring.


Thanks for the comment.
I plan on putting most of the load on the rear via a racks and 2 panniers - probably 30 lbs at the most.


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## Stumpy2011

flatlander_48 said:


> Sorry, I've been away for a few days...
> 
> 
> Hard to say which way is less expensive. Check one of the online stores and compare prices in the same group. That will give you an idea of what a new cassette and rear derailleur would go for compared to a new crank and front derailleur.


From what I read and also confirmed with my LBS mechanic a 9-speed Shimano MTB Rear Derailleur with long cage should work with the Shimano road shifters.
I have an XTR GS and 11-34 cassette available for experimentation with total chain wrap (53-39) + (34-11) = 37
The XTR GS is rated for 35... I believe it may still work. I will give it a try in a couple of weeks.

Another issue, how do you tell the frame size ? I can't see anything printed or branded into the frame, also I cannot find the serial #.
My used CX frame supposed to be 54, but after measuring the HT, TT effective and wheelbase, according to the table at the Ritchey WWW site, it is actually a 52 ???
Ritchey Logic - Frames - Break-Away Cross - 2011 White/Deep Red CX Frame


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## flatlander_48

They used to have a diagram showing how the measurements were taken, but I guess it isn't posted currently. Anyway, that sounds like a Ritchey_Dave question.


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## Ritchey_Dave

The serial number is on the bottom of the BB. Some models had really thick paint down there so it's a little hard to see. The size is usually embedded in there some where. Usually it has a few letters and then the size. The 52 and 54 have a similar geometry, and the best way to tell the difference is the effective top tube (a level line from the center of the top tube and head tube junction back to the middle of the seatpost/seat tube. It should be 54cm. Hope this helps.


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## Stumpy2011

Thanks,
I was able to find and read the serial # - it was areal challenge due to the thick paint 
It started with BC52xxxxx, so unfortunately it is a 52, which I already suspected due to the measurements I took from the frame.
So the bikes goes back to the seller.
I wonder if the issue with the toe overlapping occurs also on the 54 and 56 frame ?


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## Ritchey_Dave

Awww, I hope you decide repurchase another Ritchey. Toe overlap can happen, it depends on a bunch of things.


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## Stumpy2011

Tough call...
At this point of the research, I am moving back and forth in my decision process between the BAB and Surly Trucker deluxe.
the Ritchey is VERY light and nimble, so I am not sure how it will behave with some load on the rear rack. (30-50 lbs)
It maybe like a wild stallion rearing... or not, not sure, the short stays and the carbon fork may not be an advantage either.
OTH, it will be great as a travel bike, and I can reuse my Ultegra WH-6700 tubeless setup and other parts from my carbon road bike.

I am reading that the surly TD is like a station wagon, you can load it with all your house. 
It is heavy, slow, but extremely reliable and stable.
It is 26er (maybe will accept 27.5" but not sure) so I will need to get new set of wheels.
The 26er also has more rolling resistance and are generally slower than the 700c.

At this point My wide and I are planning on self supported touring in Europe, mostly on paved roads and "light" dirt road, with rear panniers and small handlebars bag
I believe that the Ultegras with the Hutchinson intensive tubeless setup will be able to handle those trails with no flats, so I don't have to resort to 2-LBs Schwalbe Marathons.

The price of the BAB Frame-set/Case is about the same as the Surly TD with Ritchey case, and I need to buy 2 identical pairs :mad2:
The 700c wheelset will be a large cost saver (probably 1k for the 2 bikes for the rims+tires)
So the Ritchey BAB about $4000 for 2 complete bikes and the Surly about $5000.00, but that's not the gauging factor.
I would like to make a one-time purchase that will serve us reliably for the next 10 years.

Tough questions:
700c or 26" wheels? -if 700c, will my Ultegras tubeless 24mm wide rims with 16F/20R spokes will be able to withstand the weight and the road ?
Ritchey BAB or TD ?


Please help me decide...


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## flatlander_48

Stumpy2011 said:


> OTH, it will be great as a travel bike


Other than where I live in New York State, mine has been to Michigan, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania, Illinois, North Carolina, Taiwan and Australia and it's heading into it's 9th year. Other than drivetrains and seat, the only major thing that has been changed are the tires.


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## smcnees

I built up 2 Breakaways this time last year in anticipation of my wife and I spending a week on an organized tour in France during the TDF. Hers is a Ti Road and mine a steel CX. They both worked flawlessly for the entire trip and we were way better off than those that rented from the touring company. We checked them as regular luggage for all legs of the trip and didn't even get a 2nd look from anyone at a ticket counter. This was also the case when I flew mine to Boulder and she flew hers to Utah. We've learned a few things as a result of these trips. 1) I bought pipe insulation at Home Depot and used it everywhere I could on the bikes. I labeled each piece with a Sharpie for easy on/off. 2) Remove the bolts that are on the seat tube that hold the front and rear triangles together. The first time I flew my bike I didn't do this and had to fish them out of the very bottom of the bike box after a few moments of sheer panic. 3) In the case of the CX with cantilever brakes, I didn't install the quick connectors to the rear. I have TRP Euro X brakes so you can remove the straddle cable from both arms w/o having to do any adjustments upon reinstalling. I left the cables connected to the shifters and removed the brake arms entirely. 

As for use as a touring rig, mine is my primary commuter now and works great. I have an Old Man Mountain rack with Ortlieb panniers. I also run a Nite Rider Tri Newt for the front light and a Planet Bike flasher for the rear.


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## flatlander_48

smcnees said:


> 1) I bought pipe insulation at Home Depot and used it everywhere I could on the bikes. I labeled each piece with a Sharpie for easy on/off.


I've done that for many years now, but I'm rethinking it. It makes the box very hard to zip up. One my last trip, coming back from Taiwan just over a year ago, I used the original rubber tubes and Velcro wraps to keep them in place.



smcnees said:


> 2) Remove the bolts that are on the seat tube that hold the front and rear triangles together. The first time I flew my bike I didn't do this and had to fish them out of the very bottom of the bike box after a few moments of sheer panic.


Interesting. Never had that problem. However, I only back them out just enough to relax the compression on the seat post.


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## Stumpy2011

smcnees said:


> I built up 2 Breakaways this time last year in anticipation of my wife and I spending a week on an organized tour in France during the TDF. Hers is a Ti Road and mine a steel CX. They both worked flawlessly for the entire trip and we were way better off than those that rented from the touring company.


My wife and I rode by the Loire lat summer about the same time of the TDF... cheap rental trek bikes that gave us no issues... we rented the bikes in Blois and returned in Nantes after 8 days = cost for the 2 bikes 183 Euro.
Thinking about riding this summer along the Atlantic coast (Velodyssee) from Nantes southward towards Biarritz.

I am sure the BAB cross is a great travel/road bike, but I would like to know how it behaves with load on the back (25-50 lbs panniers/rack) plus my 180 lbs with clothes/shows, plus a handlebar pannier

Assuming you rode with your kit, when riding the BAB, what was your typical load's weight and distribution ? 
Did the bike felt stable, no wobbling/shimming ?
How was the geometry, wasn't the HT too short ? usually when touring you want a more relaxed/upright position than the regular roadie.
How about your heels striking the back panniers when pedaling ?


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## Stumpy2011

I did some collage with the frames GEO's
Taller head-tube,lower BB, longer chain-stays makes a stable loaded touring bike.
(bear in mind that the Cross is 700c and the Surly is 26er )

View attachment 275129


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## smcnees

We weren't loaded at all when in France. At home though, mine is my regular commuter. I regularly load up the rear bags with clothes, laptop, etc and I think it handles just fine. I don't have any experience with front bags so I can't comment there. As for Ergos, mine is a 56cm and setup with a 44cm bar and 110 +6 degree stem. It's super comfortable for me. I'm 5'10 190lbs.


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## pigpen

Not a break away but have done a little on my SwissCross.
I am using Old Man Mountain racks. They are nice but sort of heavy.
I do get a little shimmy, unstable even with lightish load. After my first trip I placed the panniers as close to my heals as possible and added more weight to the front end. It helped bunches but it is far from perfect. Be sure you do a test ride before heading off. 

Have fun on your trip.


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## 55x11

The Ritchey BAB CX will work with regular rear rack and panniers. See below.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6490750895_362015ba4a_b.jpg
As Ritchey Dave says, very heavy front panniers may be a problem with carbon fork.
I never toured point to point but you can probably ship the case. Unlike others, I like soft case. It attracts less attention with airlines and works just fine. Packing is a bit easier than hard case as well.

I think Ritchey CX Breakaway can be an excellent bike for touring. Rear pannier mounting should be pushed back to give you plenty of heel clearance - worked well in my case. But loading too much on the rear wheel makes bike less stable, so keep that in mind.

You can pack Ritchey Breakaway either using original Ritchey instructions, or S&S style. I am not sure if either way provides any advantages. 

 Suitcase of courage
vs.
S&S style.

For cross configuration with 35mm tires S&S seemed easier, but I am not sure those two things are related.
Airlines accept my Ritchey bag as standard luggage. Works every time (no fees paid yet) - 20 trips and counting. I mostly fly United and Southwest though. Generally curbside checkin saves you hassle of waiting in line or arguing over sizing, and provide for better luggage handling. send me a msg if you need more details


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## 55x11

I never take off the chain, but I do unscrew the derailleur from the frame. Works very well for me. Wrap in a rag, done.


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