# Then WTF is a Pedal Wrench For?



## RLinNH (Apr 23, 2002)

That's it, I finally did it. I made the leap over to Roadie. I finally went out and bought some actual Road Pedals and shoes for my Road Bike. For the last 7ish years I have been riding Time ATAC Pedals and some NW MTB Shoes on the road. Hey, I'm a guy that likes to keep things simple. Anywho, this year, just can't do it anymore. The whole front of my foot, on both feet, was going numb after about 8 miles. I replaced the MTB Shoes with a set of Bontrager Race Lite Shoes, and I got some new Look Keo 2 Max pedals to accompany the new shoes. What a difference. 

Also, I picked up a 15mm Pedal wrench, thinking I would have needed it to take the old pedals off and to put the new ones on. Well, WTF, over. All I needed was an allen wrench for both sets of pedals. So, the question remains, just what the hell is a pedal wrench for? :idea:


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## AllezCat (Jun 2, 2006)

maybe 85% of the pedals made in the world need a pedal wrench. The Look Keo and the old pedals are part of the 15%, or so, that don't...


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

unlike most other pedals, time atacs don't have flats for the pedal wrench... lesson learned


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## Becky (Jun 15, 2004)

RLinNH said:


> So, the question remains, just what the hell is a pedal wrench for? :idea:


Changing other kinds of pedals, and busting skulls


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Becky said:


> Changing other kinds of pedals, and busting skulls


/thread


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

get one like this and you can work on all kinds of pedals


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## Becky (Jun 15, 2004)

Andrea138 said:


> /thread


Not sayin' I've actually done it, but there are days that it sure sounds appealing. :mad2: And it's the perfect weight and length for swinging, with a cushy handle to boot :thumbsup:


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

Look Keo's don't need a pedal wrench either, you use a 8mm hex wrench. I like the pedal wrenches over the hex as they allow more leverage. Some pedals allow you to use either.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

This is why I always advise against buying tool kits. You should only buy tools specific to repairs you do and the bikes you work on. On your bikes a pedal wrench is an 8mm hex key, on others it's a 6mm hex key, and on most it's a 15mm open end no thicker than 4mm.

*One suggestion for those who like the OP have pedals without outside wrench flats*. Remove and re-install them once in a while, and keep the threads greased especially if you're an all season rider. Given how tight pedal threads have been known to seize, if it happens to you a hex key isn't going to cut the mustard.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*Yep*

"Given how tight pedal threads have been known to seize, if it happens to you a hex key isn't going to cut the mustard."


I found this out the hard way. I went to remove my Look Keo's and my right pedal had seized. I used the 8mm hex wrench along with a rubber mallet to get the thing off. It was frustrating to say the least. I don't see any advantage of the hex key method. An 8mm is an uncommon size for a bicycle. Lucky I had one handy.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Hex key?! That would required some 75 lbs of force with your palm, on the typical 6" long end of an "L" shaped wrench, to properly torque pedals.

I use a hex bit with 3/8" sq drive, and a corresponding 3/8 drive ratchet (well, torque wrench when installing to 25 ft lb).


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Hex keys are not fun on a tight pedal, a long open end wrench is easier and unlike mine, a pedal wrench that is accurately sized. (My Park PW is a slight bit oversized so it mutilates the corners on most pedals. Which reminds me to circular file it.)


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

I find a 3/8 drive hex socket (metric set) to be very handy for pedals

I can't imagine attempting to use a hex key, or allen wrench....


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Dinosaur said:


> Look Keo's don't need a pedal wrench either, you use a 8mm hex wrench. I like the pedal wrenches over the hex as they allow more leverage. Some pedals allow you to use either.


All decent hand tool companies make hex key sockets. They can be paired with the drive tool of your choice, even torque wrenches.


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

add "hex key pedals" to the list of things I'm not convinced there was ever a need for. 

what's wrong with regular wrench flats?


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*That's True*



Drew Eckhardt said:


> All decent hand tool companies make hex key sockets. They can be paired with the drive tool of your choice, even torque wrenches.



The instructions that came with the Keo pedals say to use a 8mm hex wrench. Anyway moot point, I'm using Shimano now.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Hex sockets are definitely the way to go. Even though I always grease threads before assembly I couldn't get those pedals off. I went to my local auto parts store and bought one of these. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...1&group_ID=274&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog I put it on a 3/8" breaker bar and bada boom, bada bing.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*hmmmm*



Mr. Versatile said:


> Hex sockets are definitely the way to go. Even though I always grease threads before assembly I couldn't get those pedals off. I went to my local auto parts store and bought one of these. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...1&group_ID=274&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog I put it on a 3/8" breaker bar and bada boom, bada bing.


I think I have one of those laying around in my garage somewhere. It will be a project to try and find it...


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

Creakyknees said:


> add "hex key pedals" to the list of things I'm not convinced there was ever a need for.
> 
> what's wrong with regular wrench flats?


I thought the same thing when Shimano introduced mountain bike pedals without wrench flats about eight years ago. But now, the old system seems ridiculous to me - why do you need a special tool that does one thing: install pedals. Anyone that works on bikes has a set of allen wrenches, and the new pedals require a 8mm wrench which pretty much everyone already owns. In my book, less tools needed = better.

I've used an allen wrench to install pedals for 8 years and it works fine. Snug them up and they don't come loose. Occasionally a pedal is difficult to remove and require a small breaker bar, but not that often.


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## viciouscycle (Aug 22, 2009)

A nice piece of 3/8 water pipe on a allen wrench works wonders on pedals


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Dinosaur said:


> Look Keo's don't need a pedal wrench either, you use a 8mm hex wrench. I like the pedal wrenches over the hex as they allow more leverage. Some pedals allow you to use either.


Yep. Wait until you try to get the pedal off in a few years. You'll be glad you have the pedal wrench.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Creakyknees said:


> add "hex key pedals" to the list of things I'm not convinced there was ever a need for.
> 
> what's wrong with regular wrench flats?


And I don't care what you're using for leverage, once you "round out" that 8mm hex opening, you're in a world of hurt.


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## hawkman71 (Apr 20, 2010)

My Crank Bros Candys do not need a wrench.


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

Richard said:


> And I don't care what you're using for leverage, once you "round out" that 8mm hex opening, you're in a world of hurt.



if you're using proper tools, in a proper manner, you won't round out the hex opening 

I guess if you were ham fisted enough you could probably round off the 15mm standard pedal wrench flats too.......


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

FBinNY said:


> *One suggestion for those who like the OP have pedals without outside wrench flats*. Remove and re-install them once in a while, and keep the threads greased especially if you're an all season rider. Given how tight pedal threads have been known to seize, if it happens to you a hex key isn't going to cut the mustard.


And use anti-seize.

Most cranks are aluminum. Aluminum threads are prone to galling.

Most pedal spindles are steel. Mixing aluminum with steel yields galvanic corrosion.

Anti-seize avoids those problems.


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## cyclesport45 (Dec 10, 2007)

Anybody want to buy a pedal wrench? Cheap??


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

roscoe said:


> if you're using proper tools, in a proper manner, you won't round out the hex opening
> 
> I guess if you were ham fisted enough you could probably round off the 15mm standard pedal wrench flats too.......


Oh. We had a customer bring in a Medici that he got off CR. The pedals were some extinct brand that used only a hex - no wrench flat - and probably hadn't been removed in years. He was here for, among other things, to have us remove the pedals.

Well, we're an experienced shop with some top notch mechanics. Conventional methods to take those suckers off with good tools simply resulted in rounding out the hex.

We eventually had to dismantle the pedals, grind a flat on the spindles, put 'em in a vise and use the crank arms with a breaker bar to get them off. Oh yeah, after soaking 'em in WD-40 for a day.

Had nothing to do with being "ham fisted!"


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Or grease*



Drew Eckhardt said:


> And use anti-seize.
> 
> Most cranks are aluminum. Aluminum threads are prone to galling.
> 
> ...


Actually, unless you plan on leaving the pedals screwed in for a VERY long time, grease works just as well. But you definitely need to use one or the other. And, leaving anything screwed together for a VERY long time is just plain bad practice.


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

Richard said:


> Oh. We had a customer bring in a Medici that he got off CR. The pedals were some extinct brand that used only a hex - no wrench flat - and probably hadn't been removed in years. He was here for, among other things, to have us remove the pedals.
> 
> Well, we're an experienced shop with some top notch mechanics. Conventional methods to take those suckers off with good tools simply resulted in rounding out the hex.
> 
> ...


who knows what happened to that hex before your crew got a hold of them, things can always go wrong, and cheap/old/unmaintained parts make things tougher


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

My Chromoly SpeedPlay Zeros have an 8mm Allen Slot.
I grease them thoroughly, and loosen them every month, or so, to make sure they don't seize.
I also place a 2' piece of narrow water pipe over the lever end of my 8mm Allen Wrench, and it makes loosening and re-tightening very easy.
I have also tried anti-seize, but see no real advantage over well applied grease.

John


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*I used grease*



Kerry Irons said:


> Actually, unless you plan on leaving the pedals screwed in for a VERY long time, grease works just as well. But you definitely need to use one or the other. And, leaving anything screwed together for a VERY long time is just plain bad practice.



For info I used grease. The Keo's were only on for a little over two months.


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

jmlapoint said:


> My Chromoly SpeedPlay Zeros have an 8mm Allen Slot.
> I grease them thoroughly, and loosen them every month, or so, to make sure they don't seize.
> I also place a 2' piece of narrow water pipe over the lever end of my 8mm Allen Wrench, and it makes loosening and re-tightening very easy.
> I have also tried anti-seize, but see no real advantage over well applied grease.
> ...


My Stainless Zeros have pedal wrench flats. Maybe they also have an Allen wrench slot - I'll have to take a look.


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

Dinosaur said:


> Anyway moot point, I'm using Shimano now.


Well then don't buy Dura-Ace SPD-SL's. They use a Hex-only system as well.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

If in doubt, use an impact gun... either it'll come loose or something will snap. Either way you immediately know what to do!


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## SlowJoeCrow (Sep 3, 2009)

My pedal wrench doubles as cog holder for cassette changes (now discontinued Pedro's combo), plus it gets the disposable platform pedals on and off the utility and kids bikes. I also use a long handled ratchet with a hex bit for the Crank Bros. pedals, and if I was truly anal retentive I could install with a torque wrench. I do use a torque wrench on aluminum cassette lock rings and crank and stem bolts.


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## MisterMike (Aug 12, 2004)

I've got both good 3/8 socket attachable metric hex bits and a Park pedal wrench. I prefer the pedal wrench hands down. It just seems much easier.


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

Kerry Irons said:


> Actually, unless you plan on leaving the pedals screwed in for a VERY long time, grease works just as well.  But you definitely need to use one or the other. And, leaving anything screwed together for a VERY long time is just plain bad practice.


^That is a _*great *_point. Even though I put my Speedplay's on with Teflon grease 4 years ago - they wouldn't budge when I tried to take them off (with the bike on a bike stand). I'm taking the cranks off - so they'll go into a vise and come off for sure. That said, I plan on taking them off, re-greasing and re-mounting them every winter for now on.

The grease they use on ocean going boats is really good. I had a tube years ago. Since the parts are exposed to salt air all the time, the grease is specially formulated to resist corrosion.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

1+
Any Grease is fine.
If you get wet then any Marine Grease is Fine.
As Kerry has said, you need to check your pedals regularly and not leave them tightened forever.
I Loosen my Pedals every couple of months and clean and re-grease.
Once a year I remove Pedal and run a 9/16"-20 R & L Tap through the threads on the Crank to freshen the threads, re-grease and re-assemble.
Pedals are expensive, and just a little maintenance can help them last a LONG time.

John


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## latman (Apr 24, 2004)

I have snapped a pedal wrench (and a spanner) trying to get ungreased pedals off before, thankfully those did not need a 6mm allen key!


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## eminefes (Mar 2, 2010)

I have this:










I change pedals often, especially when a friend rides one of my bikes. All that leverage makes a world of a difference.


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

eminefes said:


> I have this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome :thumbsup: I wish I bought that pedal wrench. I stopped by my LBS with my partially disassembled bike because I was having trouble getting the cranks off (wrong crankpuller). I mentioned having a tough time getting the pedals off too. He pulled out the tool above and took them off in a snap. That pedal tool is pretty long and offers great leverage!


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I have a 15mm wrench that I cut off the box end. I have a 2' piece of water pipe that the wrench slides inside of. This gives me a 15mm wrench with a 2' lever arm and this will gently and easily remove a pedal spindle with no effort and no marks on the spindle.
Been using this for years and if you grease your threads the pedal comes off with no effort or scraped knuckles. for scraped knuckles, a pair of canvas gloves are also nice.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

eminefes said:


> I have this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've had something similar for almost 20 years. Its surprising how much I use the thing for what it is. Luckily, the bolt size on pedals has escaped "improvement" and remained the same size for all that time.


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