# Pics of bar end shifter setups please.



## nmjim (Jan 1, 2008)

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Hi. I'm thinking of setting up my Salsa Casseroll as a 1x9 with a bar end shifter
and can't seem to find to many pics by searching. Does anyone even run these
setups anymore? I'm new to road riding but have been a serious mtbr for over 15
years. Last winter I got sick and tired of not being able to ride single track when
it was to wet for months on end. Or trying to hit the single track early in the morning
when the trails are still frozen only to end up riding in slop by 8a.m. This winter
is gonna be different! Lovin the Casseroll. Thanks. Jim.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

google images has plenty


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## KWL (Jan 31, 2005)

nmjim said:


> Hi. I'm thinking of setting up my Salsa Casseroll as a 1x9 with a bar end shifter and can't seem to find to many pics by searching.


Not sure what good this will do you but here is a photo of my XO-1. Both it and my Long Haul Trucker have the cable housing wrapped all the way to the stem. Makes for a much neater appearance than letting the cables hang out all over the place.


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## transplant (Jan 7, 2005)

*crispness in shifting?*

Do you notice any loss of crispness in shifting (if you are not in Friction) when you run your cables under your tape?
How about if you had a standard drop bar, rather than the moustache bar?
Thanks


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## KWL (Jan 31, 2005)

*Not that I notice....*



transplant said:


> Do you notice any loss of crispness in shifting (if you are not in Friction) when you run your cables under your tape?
> How about if you had a standard drop bar, rather than the moustache bar?
> Thanks


...but I've been known to be somewhat oblivious to the minutiae of cycling. The XO-1 is using older 7-speed shifters running an 8-speed cassette (there is a ghost shift at the top that allows all 8 to be used) and the LHT has newer 9-speed Dura-Ace/105. The new stuff seems to shift better, but neither is spongy or slow. 

The biggest issue is getting the right length cable housing. Standard sets aren't long enough to run along the bars. Either buy from your bike shop's 50 foot bulk pack or use a rear cable for the front and a tandem cable for the rear.


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## JAG410 (Oct 28, 2008)

I used the included housing (uncut) and took the lazy approach to routing the cables. Since I'm still experimenting with handlebars, I'll wait until I've found the one I want before routing the cables under the tape. For now it works great, way smoother than I thought they'd be.


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## My Username (Jan 17, 2008)

Cool bike. Where did you get the reflectors on your spokes? Did you make them yourself from reflective tape or did you buy them pre-packaged?


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## KWL (Jan 31, 2005)

My Username said:


> Cool bike. Where did you get the reflectors on your spokes? Did you make them yourself from reflective tape or did you buy them pre-packaged?


+1 on the comment and the questions. I like the reflective spokes.


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## thinkcooper (Jan 5, 2005)

My pack horse.


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## JAG410 (Oct 28, 2008)

My Username said:


> Cool bike. Where did you get the reflectors on your spokes? Did you make them yourself from reflective tape or did you buy them pre-packaged?


Thanks. The reflectors are called "Lightweight for Wheels", which I found at Performance Bike. You can also get them online here: http://www.lightweights.org/store/product.php?productid=1

They are nearly invisible until light hits them. Took about an hour to install. I recommend using beer, a recliner, and a football game as tools


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## gutfiddle (Apr 27, 2006)

thinkcooper said:


> My pack horse.


I *heart* those bars, what are they?


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## m_s (Nov 20, 2007)

I had my Jamis Aurora with the cables routed outside the bars once the drop started to curve upward. I had it the other way before, but changed it because I didn't lie the feel of the cable under the bar tape when I was in the drops. Shifting felt about the same either way.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Here's a shot of my set up before taping the bars. I've always routed my bar end shifters ergo style.


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Another set up on my commuter:


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## nonsleepingjon (Oct 18, 2002)

roadfix said:


> Here's a shot of my set up before taping the bars. I've always routed my bar end shifters ergo style.


Is that a cross check? Post more pics - I've been thinking of doing a set up like that. How do you like the midge bar and do the bar end shifters work well with it?


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

nonsleepingjon said:


> Is that a cross check? Post more pics - I've been thinking of doing a set up like that. How do you like the midge bar and do the bar end shifters work well with it?


That's my Long Haul Trucker and I'm actually in the middle of deciding whether I like these bars on this bike or not. I've been experimenting with high rise stems on these bars as well. I may go back to my Salsa Bell Laps. The Midge bars are very comfortable and the shifters work very well.


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## thinkcooper (Jan 5, 2005)

gutfiddle said:


> I *heart* those bars, what are they?


Scott AT2 LF ATB bars from the 80's. I bet you could ebay 'em cheap.

http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/scott_combo.html


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## My Username (Jan 17, 2008)

JAG410 said:


> Thanks. The reflectors are called "Lightweight for Wheels", which I found at Performance Bike. You can also get them online here: http://www.lightweights.org/store/product.php?productid=1


Thanks for the info and link. Looks like a really good way to make the bike more visible. 



JAG410 said:


> I recommend using beer, a recliner, and a football game as tools


Heh, sounds like we take the same approach to tackling bike projects.


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## My Username (Jan 17, 2008)

thinkcooper said:


> Scott AT2 LF ATB bars from the 80's. I bet you could ebay 'em cheap.
> 
> http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/scott_combo.html


Those bars are great. I have the AT-2 on my winter commuter (a Scott MTB from 1994) and I absolutely love them. OK, they're a bit flexy but the multitude of hand positions more than makes up for it. I've seen them on eBay for $9 or so but that was a year or two ago so I don't know what they're going for these days.


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## twblalock (Sep 15, 2008)

I have my shifters under the tape all the way to the stem on my drops. I find that it is important to make sure the cables are long enough, given the extra housing that it takes to go all the way around the drops. I used a tandem rear cable for my rear derailer, and a standard rear cable for my front derailer. A normal front cable might be long enough, but it could work depending on the bike and handlebars.

I haven't noticed any shifting problems. I got curious when taping my bars, and undid the electrical tape which was holding the shift housing to the bars. I let it hang free, much like you see in JAG410s first picture (but much longer). The shifting didn't change at all. I am satisfied that the routing did not add any noticeable friction to the shifting.


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