# Defying the norm: why are cheap wheels "bad"?



## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Ok, so I've heard it a bazillion times how cheap wheels are bad, and the biggest "upgrade" is a new set. But, I want to know why?
I understand that cheap wheels are heavier than expensive ones, but for a non-racer on flat land, this doesn't benefit me. 
I also understand that machine built wheels may not hold true as long as hand built, but that's an easy correction at the LBS a year down the road. 
So why else?? Profit margin driving a myth? That's the most likely story. Bling? Ok...
Speed? That's my legs, not the wheels.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Bottom line, build quality. 

Ive turned poor riding, sluggish cheapo wheels into something that rides very nicely by simply getting all the spokes even, and greasing/adjusting the cones.. 

Most people simply opt for a whole new wheel instead of repairing a poor factory build. In comparison, they feel the quality of the build. You're right, a simple trip to a good lbs fixes most "bad" wheels. Its not something that most people opt for though.


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

I was looking at BWW's site yesterday, and saw a statement saying replace those "dubious quality factory wheels" with theirs. I'm like WTH?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Next time you're at a bike shop, feel the spoke tension on some of the lower end bikes. Ive seen some bikes with scary low/uneven tension. Id say dubious quality is pretty accurate!


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

I think you have answered your own question; there is no need to upgrade if you are willing to have any possible build problems trued by a good professional or at your own skilled hands. 

I think the reason that people push replacing wheels is that we're all so focused on bike weight, and wheel upgrades usually offer one of the better $/grams-saved ratios compared to other part upgrades you can perform.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

Build quality is probably the most important reason. This has a direct correlation to durability as well. If you spend a bit more now, your going to notice the true benefits of that investment a few seasons down the road when everything is still rolling smooth. 
Another major reason to spend a little more is ride quality and characteristics. A lower end wheelset that is heavy an unaero will have sluggish ride qualities which equate to lost watts and poor efficiency. 
So when it all boils down to it, spending a bit more on wheels CAN make your rig feel brand new. Maximizing rigidity and power transfer for your weight can be pivotal in how much you enjoy riding your bicycle.


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## cmg (Oct 27, 2004)

heavy rims, straight gauge spokes, lower quality bearings, even factory wheels will have these components. Keep in mind lower spoked wheels tend to have heavier rims, never a good idea.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

cmg said:


> heavy rims, straight gauge spokes, lower quality bearings, even factory wheels will have these components. Keep in mind lower spoked wheels tend to have heavier rims, never a good idea.


"Never" is a strong word. Deep aero rims tend to have fewer spokes and a heavier rim.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

Cool factor. 

If you're not racing and don't care about speed there is little reason to have expensive wheels. A sub $3-500 set can last a lifetime if built well.


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## penn_rider (Jul 11, 2009)

I liken it to cheap = quality. I have already worn out my Mavic Aksiums in 2 seasons, both cosmetically and functionality. The anodizing is flaking off and the supposedly stainless spokes are corroding/rusting. The bearings are no longer smooth, and they are beginning to need more attention that my previous set of Ambrosio/Campy build wheels which needed only one re-true and dish in 9 years of riding. It is not "expensive means better", rather one needs to be smart and realistic when choosing wheels for their intended purpose. Choose solid and proven components and you will have a great wheel. The price escalates as you want to add bling and lower weight into the equation. The problem rises when you want to add those last two with a lower price. Corners have to be cut and that will almost certainly affect the life of the wheel.


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## aaric (Mar 10, 2011)

ZoSoSwiM said:


> Cool factor.
> 
> If you're not racing and don't care about speed there is little reason to have expensive wheels. A sub $3-500 set can last a lifetime if built well.


For many people, a $3-500 wheelset isn't cheap  A lot of people spend that on their entire bike.

IMO wheels such as Easton circuits or Fulcrum 7's are plenty nice and maintainable. The issue with cheap (sub $100) wheelsets on lower end builds is quality of materials and workmanship. For instance, I had a set of ALX 220 wheels that came on my Felt F60, that just wouldn't ever stay true for more than about 100 miles. I've not had any of these problems with Easton Circuits that I got for $200 (which is currently my beater wheelset). Granted I'm 6'1" / 180, so smaller / lighter riders may not have the same issues.

Also, if you've bought your bike used or off of craigslist, its not uncommon that the wheels on the bike have taken a beating, and are out of true etc.

A lot of bikes on the cheaper end come with lower quality wheels, as that's not really a selling point in the $500 bike range. Spending a couple hundred on a decent wheelset would make a big difference... moreso than upgrading groupsets for more money. Also, spending 20 bucks to have your $50 wheel trued makes little sense IMO.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

aaric said:


> For many people, a $3-500 wheelset isn't cheap  A lot of people spend that on their entire bike.
> 
> IMO wheels such as Easton circuits or Fulcrum 7's are plenty nice and maintainable. The issue with cheap (sub $100) wheelsets on lower end builds is quality of materials and workmanship. For instance, I had a set of ALX 220 wheels that came on my Felt F60, that just wouldn't ever stay true for more than about 100 miles. I've not had any of these problems with Easton Circuits that I got for $200 (which is currently my beater wheelset). Granted I'm 6'1" / 180, so smaller / lighter riders may not have the same issues.
> 
> ...


Just a point of clarification. Even though you may have paid $200 for your Eastons, that is a $500-600 wheelset retail. So bargains notwithstanding, I think we are still talking about the same level of quality and attention to detail in the build.


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## aaric (Mar 10, 2011)

krisdrum said:


> Just a point of clarification. Even though you may have paid $200 for your Eastons, that is a $500-600 wheelset retail. So bargains notwithstanding, I think we are still talking about the same level of quality and attention to detail in the build.


IMO there are at least a few reasonable quality sub 2000g wheelsets around $200-300 range: Shimano R500, Fulcrum 7s, Easton etc.

Its also possible my preception of lower end wheel prices are skewed down by the bargain bins at Arts Cyclery and CBO, which are both local.

My perception is you can build a pretty decent wheelset for $500-600, that would be a significant upgrade over the $200-300 wheels, but not as great of an upgrade as the 200-300s over the stock wheels. Diminishing returns and all that.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Stange definition of cheap*



aaric said:


> IMO there are at least a few reasonable quality sub 2000g wheelsets around $200-300 range: Shimano R500, Fulcrum 7s, Easton etc.
> 
> Its also possible my preception of lower end wheel prices are skewed down by the bargain bins at Arts Cyclery and CBO, which are both local.
> 
> My perception is you can build a pretty decent wheelset for $500-600, that would be a significant upgrade over the $200-300 wheels, but not as great of an upgrade as the 200-300s over the stock wheels. Diminishing returns and all that.


Title should be "Strange definition of cheap" - fat finger typo.

I guess it really is a matter of perception! For $550 you can get a set of Campy Record, DT Swiss RR 465 wheels from Colorado Cyclist. IMO there are damn few of us who "need" anything better than that. The only real performance advantage you could get would be from an aero wheel.

I can't imagine that the OP was talking about wheels anywhere NEAR this high quality when he mentioned "cheap wheels." When I think cheap wheels, I think $150 or less for the pair.


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## bhyman2 (Apr 12, 2009)

Whats the real difference here?

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-f...cycle-wheelset-weight-1390g--wholesalers.html

http://www.valleycyclist.com/specials.html (look at special at 27mm)

There are definite differences, and I would probably get a set laced up by Valleycyclist (but thats cause I value America Jobs -white industry hubs and laced here in USA). But what is the true difference here? You can get three sets from Asia for the price of one here...I think it matters to what people value in the end-budget, quality, location of value added services...

Just my two cents


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

I agree that "cheap" is certainly a relative term. I'm much closer to the $150 range as well.

I see the OPs point about new wheels, but my issue is the relatively low spoke count that seems to be the trend with road bikes. I wish there was an option for higher/lower spoke count with new bikes like the triple/double option some bikes have.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

One of my wheelsets is a pair of Neuvation M28 Aero3s and they have been trouble-free. I haven't had even one problem with them. That says a lot being that they are a 16 fr/20 rr spoke wheelset and I'm 215 lbs. The key is keeping them evenly tensioned. I have them inspected every three months. Occassionally, they need adjustments but not often. My other bikes have more expensive wheels and they don't roll any better. You can take most cheap wheels and make them good wheels with proper tuning.


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## tconrady (May 1, 2007)

One of my bikes came with cheaper wheels. Heavy, were out of true a lot and were 20/24 spoked. I'm usually just over 200 lbs....and well, 20/24 paired spoked wheels aren't the ideal config for my weight and the way I ride.

And I did have them in the shop several times. I then decided I wanted something stronger and more durable.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

When buying more expensive wheels, it also comes with a convenience factor (on most builds). That extra bit of money should get you not only a durable wheelset, but the consistent backing incase you have any problems down the road.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

One of my personal irritations with a lot of less expensive wheels is the crappiness of the hubs. When the seals suck or don't exist, the amount of maintenance required to keep them smooth is insane.

I have a really crappy rim on one of my bikes. A Weinmann DP18, IIRC. Maybe a better builder could do it, but I've never been able to get the thing to be round with acceptably even spoke tension. There's always a little bit of a flat spot at the join. That wheel also has a cheap Quando hub, which is getting new nuts for the axle next time I change the bearing, because the current nut doesn't have its surfaces perpendicular to the axis of the hole.

I have a Tiagra hub on one wheel that does its job perfectly, and is quite smooth. It's not that old - just a couple of seasons - but I'm pretty confident it'll last a good long time, as long as I keep taking care of it. I've come to suspect that $40ish (think Mavic Open Sport) rims on Tiagra hubs, with straight gauge spokes but hand-built, or at least tensioned and trued, are the ultimate bang-for-the-buck wheel. I know that the front is available from Dimension, although I think that set only comes with a threaded rear hub. BWW of course offers a couple of rims to compete in the sub-$200 pricepoint.

Doesn't stop me from treating myself to something nicer on my fun bikes. But I think that knowing what it really costs to get something that will give years of service can help give a sense of perspective when contemplating new wheels.


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## T0mi (Mar 2, 2011)

aaric said:


> IMO there are at least a few reasonable quality sub 2000g wheelsets around $200-300 range: Shimano R500, Fulcrum 7s, Easton etc.
> 
> Its also possible my preception of lower end wheel prices are skewed down by the bargain bins at Arts Cyclery and CBO, which are both local.


I don't know about the others, but Shimano R500 are shitty wheels. I had a set given with my previous bike and I had to retrue them several times in 3 years. I had to appy spoke freeze because some of the spokes kept loosing themselves.

In comparison I have several handbuilt wheelset, both by me or professionnal wheelbuilders made out of low end/cheap rims/hubs (mavic CXP23 or open,rims shimano 105 or old RX100 hubs, straight gauge spokes) and they remained true for more than ten years. Only the bearings had to be serviced once.


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## kykr13 (Apr 12, 2008)

Zen Cyclery said:


> So when it all boils down to it, spending a bit more on wheels CAN make your rig feel brand new.


Agree - try out a set of better wheels and see what you think. Though that's not a wallet-friendly idea... I'm also a non-racer and on mostly flat land, but I'm not a fan of stuff going wrong. I do have a set of 20/24 spoke wheels that have held up a lot better than I was led to believe by reading about them, but they take more truing than the 32's.


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## aaric (Mar 10, 2011)

T0mi said:


> I don't know about the others, but Shimano R500 are shitty wheels. I had a set given with my previous bike and I had to retrue them several times in 3 years. I had to appy spoke freeze because some of the spokes kept loosing themselves.
> 
> In comparison I have several handbuilt wheelset, both by me or professionnal wheelbuilders made out of low end/cheap rims/hubs (mavic CXP23 or open,rims shimano 105 or old RX100 hubs, straight gauge spokes) and they remained true for more than ten years. Only the bearings had to be serviced once.



Fair enough - I've not ridden them, so I'll take your word for it. My experience with Shimano wheels is on the high end. I must have been thinking of the RS80's which people generally like.


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## mattotoole (Jan 3, 2008)

Marketers have done a great job making us feel inadequate if we don't have the latest-greatest stuff.

A lot of cheap OEM wheels are crappy but so are a lot of expensive boutique ones.

If anything, cheap OEM wheels are overbuilt, with heavy rims and spokes. If they're properly re-tensioned and stress-relieved, they'll outlast almost anything. 

I have a MTB wheel like that. I once needed a new ratchet body, but found a whole new wheel cheaper, with a cheap Shimano hub and no-name rim. So I bought it. When I got home I went through it with a spoke wrench. I'm still riding that $30 wheel, 15 years later. It's been mountain biking all over CA and VA, commuted on through winter, and is still going strong.

In contrast, I have Rolf Sestrieres on my road bike that were horrible when new, going out of true and popping spokes. I think these listed for like $800 -- a lot back then, before the boutique wheel craze went stratospheric. After a few months of this frustration, I handed them to a good mechanic. He completely re-tensioned and stress-relieved them, and the next 15k miles were trouble free. Recently they started popping spokes again, and the front hub flange failed a few days ago. They will finally be replaced this week.

Really good wheels though, would last 50k miles, not 15k.

All along, I hated the Sestrieres' DT/Hugi hubs. Because of the design, they needed constant re-greasing, even in dry weather. The seals were crappy in wet weather. The ratchet wore and the take-up was clunky. _Even cheap Shimano hubs are so much better._

Bascially, people spend a lot of money on wheels for:

-Fashion and cool factor

-Dubious aerodynamic advantage

-Really dubious advantage from weight savings

-Fashion and cool factor

I'll probably get some Shimano RS20 this week. Why? Shimano hubs, price, and confidence in Shimano's build quality. I could do without the bladed spokes, but that's what they come with. I'll post back with my impressions.


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