# Cannondale Synapse



## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

I was testing an aluminum Cannondale Synapse 5 earlier today and I have some questions about picking my first road bike. This bike actually rode very nicely I thought; I'm not sure what all rumors about stiff aluminum bikes are about. My current bike is a 2011 Marin Point Reyes size 19", which is aluminum also, but has 42mm street tires so it absorbs a lot of bumps.

I tested the Cannondale Synapse in 54 and 56 and they both felt fine to me. The 56 felt very slightly stretched, but the bars were also up higher and it had a longer stem. I think a shorter stem, maybe 10mm or so shorter and lower rise stem or removing some of the spacer will help. But I also noticed that the 56 has a longer stem compared to the 54. The 54 also felt ok to me, not cramped, not stretched. Neither one screamed at me that it fit significantly better or worse really. Is it generally recommended to go bigger or smaller in these types of situations?

One thing about the 56 I didn't really like was that I almost felt like I was riding my hybrid while on top of the brake levers because the bars were higher. 

According to the Competitive Cyclist calculator, it is recommended I get a 55.0 to 55.5 cm top tube which is basically right in between the two frame sizes. The 54 has 54cm TT and 56 has 56cm TT. How accurate is this type of calculator? I asked on a different road bike site and I basically got flamed for even considering a 56 because it would be surely too big for me based on my height of 1.72m/67.7in and 78cm/30.7in inseam. Every comment I made lead to more flaming...But they were comparing to their own ride and I didn't get much useful feedback. Further they stated that this calculator is wildly inaccurate and that 54 is the largest I should even consider and that I should really be looking at something around 50-52 instead.









My riding style...this is going to be my weekend toy. I currently have no plans for racing other than maybe impromptu Cat 6 races. I really just want to ride and see how far and hard I can ride. Speed is always more fun, and I like speed, I don't want to be worn out by the road, I want to wear out the road if that makes sense. Call me a glutton for punishment, but I love them hills too.

My Marin Point Reyes is my commuter bike and I ride up to 10 miles each way on it. I've also done weekend rides up to 30 miles on it. Starting in SF, I've gone over the GG bridge and then up Conzleman to Hawk Hill and then looped around some road and back to SF.


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## Dresden (May 26, 2009)

I'd get the 54 rather than the 56 if I were you. That's close enough to the Competitive Cyclist calculator(assuming the calculator is correct--which probably shouldn't be assumed since it's difficult to be sure to get the measurements right) that a stem change would easily let you fine tune your fit if needed. In the past, it was common to size up if someone wanted a taller head tube, but nowadays people don't have to do that because it's easy to find bikes(like the Synapse) designed with taller head tubes.


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## Zeet (Mar 24, 2013)

Dresden said:


> I'd get the 54 rather than the 56 if I were you. That's close enough to the Competitive Cyclist calculator(assuming the calculator is correct--which probably shouldn't be assumed since it's difficult to be sure to get the measurements right) that a stem change would easily let you fine tune your fit if needed. In the past, it was common to size up if someone wanted a taller head tube, but nowadays people don't have to do that because it's easy to find bikes(like the Synapse) designed with taller head tubes.


+1 ^ Great Advice! It's always wiser to get the smaller bike, if split between two sizes. That's only because, if a mistake is made, it's always easier to tweak up, if too small, than to tweak down, if too large. In summary, if a bike is too large, there's very little that you can do to make adjustments. OTOH, if the bike is too small, there are more adjustment options available.


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## Zeet (Mar 24, 2013)

Zeet said:


> +1 ^ Great Advice! It's always wiser to get the smaller bike, if split between two sizes. That's only because, if a mistake is made, it's always easier to tweak up, if too small, than to tweak down, if too large. In summary, if a bike is too large, there's very little that you can do to make adjustments. OTOH, if the bike is too small, there are more adjustment options available.


The "rumors" about aluminum framed bikes came about due to many of the earlier ill-designed aluminum bikes that transmitted far too much road vibration to the cyclist. In the earlier days, both Cannondale and Klein had this problem. However, bicycle designs have improved so much since then, that the vibration transmittance difference between most aluminum framed bikes, and steel framed bikes, are only slightly observable when cycling for short distances. Most notable bicycle companies now days have more sophisticated aluminum frame designs that significantly decrease road vibration transmittance. These days, road vibration transmission is nowhere near the magnitude of the poorly designed aluminum frames of yesteryear. * Edited*


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Zeet said:


> +1 ^ Great Advice! It's always wiser to get the smaller bike, if split between two sizes. That's only because, if a mistake is made, it's always easier to tweak up, if too small, than to tweak down, if too large. In summary, if a bike is too large, there's very little that you can do to make adjustments. OTOH, if the bike is too small, there are more adjustment options available.


Keep in mind that getting a smaller bike to "fit" will often end up with more drop to the bars than a larger bike that fits. Some people dont like alot of saddle to bar drop. Some do. It all comes down to proper fit forthe riding style, not just the rider.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

pedroj said:


> I'm not sure what all rumors about stiff aluminum bikes are about.


My GF just got a Synapse 5. She loves it. Cannondale makes some of the best alum frames, especially in the lower price range. There's a lot of not so great alum frames out there from other brands in the same price range. Which is where the "rumors" come from. But they're not just rumors.



> How accurate is this type of calculator?


Not very accurate. They're better than the charts that recommend a bike by just your height. But still, they only get you in the ballpark.


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## Maximus_XXIV (Nov 10, 2008)

Removing spacers from the stem will actually make the bike longer and the fit more stretched out.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Maximus_XXIV said:


> Removing spacers from the stem will actually make the bike longer and the fit more stretched out.


Kinda of, but it's a bit more complicated. True, the horizontal distance between the saddle and bars will increase due to the angle of the steerer, but a larger effect is your torso pivoting forward due to the lower hand position, which likely increases your reach more than the bars move forward.

It's often possible to set up the exact same fit (relative positions of crank, saddle, bars) on two or even three different frame sizes through selection of components and adjustment.


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## snidemcbride (Aug 27, 2012)

You cannot go wrong with Cannondale on Road bikes. They're the definitive leader in aluminum and you'll have a blast on the Synapse. I would go with a 54 and size stem and bars to fit. The weight penalty with aluminum vs. carbon is minimal these days and the Synapse is designed to eat up the road vibration. Enjoy!


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## Maximus_XXIV (Nov 10, 2008)

looigi said:


> Kinda of, but it's a bit more complicated. True, the horizontal distance between the saddle and bars will increase due to the angle of the steerer, but a larger effect is your torso pivoting forward due to the lower hand position, which likely increases your reach more than the bars move forward.
> 
> It's often possible to set up the exact same fit (relative positions of crank, saddle, bars) on two or even three different frame sizes through selection of components and adjustment.


Yes, I have 10 bikes all a bit different and all set up the same. I was just addressing something the OP stated.
Another point is that the ideal position for most riders will change over time with fitness and flexibility.


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## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

Zeet said:


> The "rumors" about aluminum framed bikes came about due to many of the earlier ill-designed aluminum bikes that transmitted far too much road vibration to the cyclist. In the earlier days, both Cannondale and Klein had this problem. However, bicycle designs have improved so much since then, that the difference between most aluminum framed bikes, and steel framed bikes, are barely even observable. As a matter of fact, many aluminum framed bikes with carbon fiber forks are reported to transmit even less road vibration to cyclists than entire steel framesets. Most notable bicycle companies now days have more sophisticated aluminum frame designs that significantly decrease road vibration transmittance. These days, road vibration transmission is nowhere near the magnitude of the poorly designed aluminum frames of yesteryear.


Is this due to the trend to hydroform tubes now? I notice that now many tubes are no longer circular and have fairly complex shapes compared to bikes from 10 years ago. Ten years ago, it was still fat tube aluminum, though I've seen Walmart bikes replicate the fat tubes with hi-ten steel.


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## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

I think I'm going to test the two again side by side. If I get the 56 and I remove spacers, the reach is extended which means I'd need to shorten the stem even more; is that correct? It sounds like this really would be too big then because I don't know how long the stem is, but it sounds like I could end up with a very short stem resulting in a very twitchy bike. 

I still have to find a Felt Z85 and Jamis Ventura and Quest to test. 

I tried a Kona Jake, a cross bike, today and it's not really what I want. Nice bike, and the 53 fit well, but the Cannondale felt more nimble.


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## Dresden (May 26, 2009)

Don't get the 56. Coming from a MTB or hybrid which has a long top tube and short stem, a road bike may feel a bit odd at first with the shorter top tube and longer stem. You're probably just not used to the proper position when riding a road bike. The 54 Synapse has a head tube length of 165mm which is very tall for a road bike with a 54cm top tube. You shouldn't need the extra head tube height of the 56 and the 54 cm top tube length of the 54 should be plenty long enough.


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## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

Dresden said:


> Don't get the 56. Coming from a MTB or hybrid which has a long top tube and short stem, a road bike may feel a bit odd at first with the shorter top tube and longer stem. You're probably just not used to the proper position when riding a road bike. The 54 Synapse has a head tube length of 165mm which is very tall for a road bike with a 54cm top tube. You shouldn't need the extra head tube height of the 56 and the 54 cm top tube length of the 54 should be plenty long enough.


Yeah, my hybrid has 600mm horizontal top tube with a 100mm stem. Although, interestingly, I just noticed my hybrid has a steeper head tube than the Synapse. 72.5 on my hybrid and 72 on the Synapse.


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## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

I think I'm going to try a CAAD8 before I make a decision...assuming I can find one. Seems like most shops carry CAAD10 and Synapse, but not CAAD8.


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## Tachycardic (Mar 31, 2013)

I think you'll be happier with the Synapse than the CAAD 8. It's got a taller head tube and you'll have the opportunity to set her up for more comfort or make her pretty aggressive. The price difference is about $100, maybe less. I also think the wheel set is slightly better on the Synapse. Some will say it's a wash, but it's full Shimano RS10. But that's just me.


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## pedroj (May 29, 2013)

Tachycardic said:


> I think you'll be happier with the Synapse than the CAAD 8. It's got a taller head tube and you'll have the opportunity to set her up for more comfort or make her pretty aggressive. The price difference is about $100, maybe less. I also think the wheel set is slightly better on the Synapse. Some will say it's a wash, but it's full Shimano RS10. But that's just me.


Well I can't know for certain unless I try it right?

Anyhow, I managed a test ride on a CAAD8 105 and a Synapse Sora side by side and there are things I like and dislike about both. I prefer the slightly more aggressive position on the CAAD8 in certain situations but I like the ride on the Synapse more.

I'm leaning towards the Synapse and removing a bunch of spacers now.


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## Zeet (Mar 24, 2013)

pedroj said:


> Is this due to the trend to hydroform tubes now? I notice that now many tubes are no longer circular and have fairly complex shapes compared to bikes from 10 years ago. Ten years ago, it was still fat tube aluminum, though I've seen Walmart bikes replicate the fat tubes with hi-ten steel.


There's no doubt about hydroforming allowing for more technologically advanced frame designs. Designs that can better address road vibration and fatigue issues.


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## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

pedroj said:


> Well I can't know for certain unless I try it right?
> 
> Anyhow, I managed a test ride on a CAAD8 105 and a Synapse Sora side by side and there are things I like and dislike about both. I prefer the slightly more aggressive position on the CAAD8 in certain situations but I like the ride on the Synapse more.
> 
> I'm leaning towards the Synapse and removing a bunch of spacers now.


When I was looking at road bikes coming from mtb, I thought the the more upright position of the Synapse would work better. Nope, I just felt better on a more "race" oriented frame (Six and CAAD10)


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## shred_da_gorge (Jun 9, 2013)

pedroj said:


> I was testing an aluminum Cannondale Synapse 5 earlier today and I have some questions about picking my first road bike.


I've owned three alloy Synapses and currently ride a Synapse Sport as my commuter and climber (soon to put a front disk brake on). The Sport is a little more rare version with fender and rack bosses, slightly beefier frame and fork, and a slightly different geometry, btw.

The headtube on the Synapse is taller than many geometries, so lowering the handlebars isn't uncommon. It sounds like a good bike for your needs as long as the fit is there (my 63cm fits like a glove; and I don't mean OJ's). If you are more stretched out on the 56cm go with the 54cm and up to a 120mm stem. If you have to go less than 90mm on the stem you may not like the feel, especially if you're relatively flexible and will grow into a more race-like position (someone made the excellent point that fit changes as you improve and typically become more flexible).

One upgrade I did was swap out the aluminum "Fire" handlebars for an ergonomic carbon set (in my case with an integrated stem, but if this is your first road bike then don't go that route). I like the flat bar top plus the carbon does dampen some of the vibration that's inherent in an aluminum frame. I've bought several carbon handlebar sets from China on eBay and had good luck (with the exception of one that's good quality but with a bend I don't like).

When I bought my first Synapse in 2006 it was as comfortable and in many cases more than carbon frames I tested. I had raced a little on a CAAD7 (R1000) which beat me up on distances. Different story with a modern hi-mod frame these days, but there are prices to be paid (literally).

Also Cannondale just launched their redesigned 2014 hi-mod Synapse... might be a fun comparison.

Good luck!


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## BigPoser (Jan 11, 2013)

After getting my RBA mag a little while ago, and seeing the Synapse Hi Mod Carbon on the cover, I now want it! It looks amazing! Too bad I'd have to sell a kidney to get it.


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

At your height (5'7") I really can't see how you would need a 56. I would go with the 54.
The Synapse has a shorter top tube and taller head tube than the Caads. I use a longer stem on mine to achieve the same reach between the two. I'm 5'8" and all of my Cannondales have been 54s. At your height, long arms, long legs, short arms or short legs the 56 would just be too big. Pretty sure Cannondale has fit reccomendations on their site.


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## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

If you're still looking...

When I was looking for a bike I came down to those two and ended up with the synapse and couldn't be happier. I took all but two small spacers out then flipped the stem which pretty much dialed in the fit to the "t" for me. Felt like a new bike to 

But the caad8 and synapse are pretty similar, so I don't think you can go wrong with either. I recently test rode a caad8 and if I could go back in time I would still choose the synapse (with better components though!).


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## josephr (Jun 17, 2010)

FWIW --- I too have been quite wary of aluminum bikes from haven ridden a few in the 80s and early 90s. Since then I've been a 'steel is real' kind of guy. After years of riding vintage steel and the frustration of finding the right parts, I thought I'd get an updated bike to be my workhorse to push through centuries and weekend club rides. I've been looking at new bikes for the past year and have test rode quite a few different bikes...narrowed down to the cannondale synapse alloy w/ 105. Selected a 56cm and the first thing I did was put on a shorter stem...it comes with a 110mm but a 90mm fit me quite nice. Other than fine tuning the seat, it came to be a solid decision. Also, when test riding, I tested the carbon synapse and the alloy....the alloy felt a little more plush than the carbon, even though there's a slight penalty for weight. my 56cm bike weighed in right at 21 lbs...still, I'm super happy and its a very comfortable ride.


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