# New Trying To Improve



## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

I've been lurking on here a little over a year, a few weeks before I bought my first road bike. it seems like I've hit a wall and I'm now deciding to post! 

My cycling "season" if one can call it that extends from June-November because my main area of interest as well as my profession is in the snow industry (terrain park development, I build jumps and stuff, haha) During this time, I have little time for other things due to my 10-12 hour days so cycling takes a back seat. 

Anyway, last year mid-summer I wanted to increase my level of fitness as well as shave off a few pounds. I'm 6'2", 220lb (on a good day) and a 34" inseam, I ended up purchasing a 56cm Trek 1.5. My LBS took me through a fitting and said it was really a choice of preference between a 56cm and a 58cm. Telling me I should get "whatever felt better", so I went with the 56 seeing as I felt slightly more in control due to the smaller size. The bike is stock excluding a fizik aliente saddle, and shimano clipless pedals. 

This brings me to the wall I mentioned above, I've only logged 350 miles since buying the bike last year July. A combination of lack of fitness, neck and arm pain seems to have slowed my progression. I'm pretty sure my neck and arm pain have to do with a fit issue. Did I buy just the complete wrong bike, or do I just need to suck it up and ride more? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

-Ryan


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> I've been lurking on here a little over a year, a few weeks before I bought my first road bike. it seems like I've hit a wall and I'm now deciding to post!
> 
> My cycling "season" if one can call it that extends from June-November because my main area of interest as well as my profession is in the snow industry (terrain park development, I build jumps and stuff, haha) During this time, I have little time for other things due to my 10-12 hour days so cycling takes a back seat.
> 
> ...


Identifying fit issues (and their remedies) is seldom simple or straight forward, but I agree that's probably what you're describing with neck and arm pain, although lack of fitness may be a contributing factor.

With the limited amount of info available, there's no way to know with certainty that your frame is too small. It's possible, but the first course of action I would take is to adjust fit based on the most common causes of your issues. 

If possible, post some full length, (right) side view pics of you on the bike. One with hands on hoods, arms slightly bent and pedals at 3 and 9 (3 facing the camera). Another with your hands in the drops and the last with hands on the tops, pedals at 11 and 5 (5 closest to camera). Another side view of just the bike would be good because I'd like to see the saddle to top of bar drop you have, if the saddle is level and where the seat post clamps the saddle rails. That last one would take a close up shot. 

If you can't take some pics, there are a couple of adjustments you can make to the saddle and stem that (hopefully) will remedy your neck and arm discomfort. If you're unsure of making the adjustments yourself, the LBS you purchased from could assist.

EDIT: Question: Any hand or wrist pain/ numbness?


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, I can definitely take some pics when I get back to my bike tomorrow. Regarding hand/wrist numbness, The last ride I went on this week I actually did get some hand numbness towards the end of my ride (8 miles, the last 6 in a steady 25-30mph headwind) I don't have gloves if that's a factor.


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## R3 Sloth (Mar 25, 2010)

What stands out to me is the type of riding you are doing? Since you're in the snow industry I assume you're close to the mountains? Are your rides typically hilly? Or flat cruisers? The reason I ask is that you may be asking/expecting too much of yourself on rides that are pretty tough. When I first started riding I was fortunate to live in a relatively flat area and got the base miles needed to develop a reasonable amount of fitness with easier rides. So maybe you needed to give yourself a little more time to work through the process and see where you stand.

Having said that, fit is key. You might want to talk to your fitter again, describe your symptoms, and see what they recommend. 

Do you know any other cyclists in your area that you can ride with? They may be able to provide you with valuable insight into things like stroke, posture, etc. I had a friend who started cycling on her own. The first time we rode together the first thing I noticed was that she never got out of the saddle and always rode in the big ring. Surprisingly she complained about knee pain on longer rides. I suggested that she learn to climb out of the saddle and maybe try some easier gearing and get her cadence up. Guess what? Her knee pain disappeared. To most here that's no surprise, but to her it was a big revelation. I would suggest you continue riding and experimenting, the answers are out there. Good luck!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Thanks for the reply, I can definitely take some pics when I get back to my bike tomorrow. Regarding hand/wrist numbness, The last ride I went on this week I actually did get some hand numbness towards the end of my ride (8 miles, the last 6 in a steady 25-30mph headwind) I don't have gloves if that's a factor.


The reason I asked about numbness is because it's an indicator that your f/r weight distribution may not be ideal, with your hands/ arms holding you up, rather than your sit bones. Once we see you on the bike (and the bike by itself) we may be able to pin down the cause. And while developing core strength/ fitness is always a plus, it won't overcome deficiencies in fit, so it's best to start out right and develop from there.

Just as a FYI, IME often times fit issues are a combination of things, so wearing padded gloves would help. And I suspect riding into a headwind you subconsciously kept a tight grip on the bars, which also contributes to numbness.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> The reason I asked about numbness is because it's an indicator that your f/r weight distribution may not be ideal, with your hands/ arms holding you up, rather than your sit bones. Once we see you on the bike (and the bike by itself) we may be able to pin down the cause. And while developing core strength/ fitness is always a plus, it won't overcome deficiencies in fit, so it's best to start out right and develop from there.
> 
> Just as a FYI, IME often times fit issues are a combination of things, so wearing padded gloves would help. And I suspect riding into a headwind you subconsciously kept a tight grip on the bars, which also contributes to numbness.


I suspect weight distribution could be the issue, also the wind may have played a factor as you said. I should be able to get the pictures later today.



R3 Sloth said:


> What stands out to me is the type of riding you are doing? Since you're in the snow industry I assume you're close to the mountains? Are your rides typically hilly? Or flat cruisers? The reason I ask is that you may be asking/expecting too much of yourself on rides that are pretty tough. When I first started riding I was fortunate to live in a relatively flat area and got the base miles needed to develop a reasonable amount of fitness with easier rides. So maybe you needed to give yourself a little more time to work through the process and see where you stand.
> 
> Having said that, fit is key. You might want to talk to your fitter again, describe your symptoms, and see what they recommend.
> 
> Do you know any other cyclists in your area that you can ride with? They may be able to provide you with valuable insight into things like stroke, posture, etc. I had a friend who started cycling on her own. The first time we rode together the first thing I noticed was that she never got out of the saddle and always rode in the big ring. Surprisingly she complained about knee pain on longer rides. I suggested that she learn to climb out of the saddle and maybe try some easier gearing and get her cadence up. Guess what? Her knee pain disappeared. To most here that's no surprise, but to her it was a big revelation. I would suggest you continue riding and experimenting, the answers are out there. Good luck!


I split my time between my house in the mountains, and the valley below the mountains at my girlfriends house. The mountains offer lots of climbing which I do get out and try to do, but of course you have to go up before you go down and vice versa so I can only climb 2 or 3 miles before turning around and heading home. Down in the valley is perfectly flat with a few steady climbs and a few areas of rollers in the foothills. This is good cycling terrain but it's either dawn patrol or nothing due to the constant wind and high temperatures. 

I don't push myself to the point of breaking but when I try to go on longer rides, one of these fit issues seems to crop up and the only thing I can think about is getting off the bike. 

I had a riding buddy last year but he sold his bike and now the only people who ride that I know have a much higher level of fitness and can climb and ride longer than I can.


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## eyezlee (Nov 28, 2009)

Im a newb too, so take this as it is. I'll be watching this thread as PJ352 dials you in.  

56 sounds real small to me. I'm 6'2" as well and I fit a 60. My inseam is about 34.5.

My fitting we put on a shorter stem and moved the seat back just a bit to center my knees over the pedals.


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## Erion929 (Jun 10, 2010)

eyezlee said:


> Im a newb too, so take this as it is. I'll be watching this thread as PJ352 dials you in.
> 
> 56 sounds real small to me. I'm 6'2" as well and I fit a 60. My inseam is about 34.5.
> 
> My fitting we put on a shorter stem and moved the seat back just a bit to center my knees over the pedals.



Same here, that is, as a relative newbie. But, for comparison, I'm 5'9" and ride a 54cm Cannondale. I just barely started reading the OP post, saw....6'2" ....and took a quick guess without reading anymore....."Lemme guess, riding a 56cm and it's painful". Sounds a little small to me, too.


**


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> I suspect weight distribution could be the issue, also the wind may have played a factor as you said. I should be able to get the pictures later today.


Sounds good. If possible, mount the bike on a stationary trainer so that you don't have to hold yourself up against a wall. Doing so tends to change a riders position.


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## kweber24 (Jun 25, 2010)

im 5'9, i've been fitted at several bike stores, and most put me on a 54..i did an extended test ride on a 54 and i seemed stretched out on it. perhaps it wasn't adjusted for me fully because this particular lbs barely did anything compared to the other ones, but another put me on a cannondale 51 saying cannondales tend to run larger, and i found it perfect. But your 5'9 might be completely different from mine(longer legs, arms, torso). hard to say...but neck problems seem like he would have too aggresive geometry, 1.5s are racing bikes while pilots have a more relaxed geometry, so maybe making adjustments to the bike to have a more relaxed geometry would help, just my opinion based on extremely limited experience.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

*Wow*

Now, that I look at myself on the bike from a 3rd person perspective, I absolutely dwarf it. On a side note, I'm not as fat as my shirt portrays, haha.


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## Spanky_88007 (Aug 28, 2008)

FWIW, I'm 6'3-4ish with a 36" inseam and have a 60cm Trek 1000 from a few years ago, and it fits perfect. In my opinion, your bike is too small for you. But then, I have a CAAD9 in 63cm that some say is too big for me. What can ya do? Hope ya get it figured out and remedied.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Good job on the pics!! :thumbsup:

Cutting to the chase, I think the fitter misled you by offering the option to go with a 56 or 58. Judging from the saddle fore/ aft position and how you're positioned on the bike, I think the 58 would've been the better choice.

If you want to make this work as best you can, I'd suggest a saddle adjustment to the rear and a longer stem of the same angle. There isn't a lot of room to move the saddle rearward by much, and care has to be taken to keep the saddle level (with the ground), but hopefully moving you back slightly and extending the stem out 1cm and up (slightly) your weight will shift back, easing your neck and hand discomfort. Essentially, we'll add a little height and a couple of cm's to your reach. Before doing anything with the stem I'd want you to measure it from center of top cap bolt to center of bars.

The alternative (as I see it) is to return to the LBS and work with the fitter to do what I've described here. These aren't difficult adjustments to make, but you have to be comfortable making them.

HTH...


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Good job on the pics!! :thumbsup:
> 
> Cutting to the chase, I think the fitter misled you by offering the option to go with a 56 or 58. Judging from the saddle fore/ aft position and how you're positioned on the bike, I think the 58 would've been the better choice.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply, my fears were correct when it came to this bike. I'm curious, in your opinion if doing the two things you suggested would actually make a big enough difference to fix the issues. I know it would be a step in the right direction but if I'm just paddling upstream trying to adjust a bike that's ultimately too small.

I'm not opposed to selling this and getting a different bike not only because of the fit but the low end components (it's a low end bike, I got what I paid for) the sora levers are worthless in the drops and the front dérailleur is terrible. 

That being said, I want to know what you or anyone would do in this situation. Sell or work with it?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Thanks for the reply, my fears were correct when it came to this bike. I'm curious, in your opinion if doing the two things you suggested would actually make a big enough difference to fix the issues. I know it would be a step in the right direction but if I'm just paddling upstream trying to adjust a bike that's ultimately too small.
> 
> I'm not opposed to selling this and getting a different bike not only because of the fit but the low end components (it's a low end bike, I got what I paid for) the sora levers are worthless in the drops and the front dérailleur is terrible.
> 
> That being said, I want to know what you or anyone would do in this situation. Sell or work with it?


I don't know if the adjustments would make enough of a difference to actually fix the issues. We'd have to try them and see. 

Because you were incorrectly sized to a bike you're now faced with making adjustments that wouldn't normally be required. Ideally, once a cyclist is sized, fit amounts to little more than tweaks, so yes, I think you'd be trying to adjust a bike that's ultimately too small for you, but sometimes that's the only option people have. 

I understand what you're saying about the Sora shifters, but suspect an adjustment issue on the FD. 

As far as what I'd do in your situation, seeing as I think fit trumps all else, I'd sell the bike. I think if you ultimately do decide to sell this bike, when you begin your quest to find a new one the priority has to be on dealing with a reputable shop with an experienced fitter, because you don't want to have to go through this again.


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## R3 Sloth (Mar 25, 2010)

Wow, looking at your pix I'd have to agree with PJ352, selling the bike and getting the right frame set would be ideal. Anything that you do with the stem or seat is only going to mask the true problem, frame size. 

Keep us updated, curious to hear how you go.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> I don't know if the adjustments would make enough of a difference to actually fix the issues. We'd have to try them and see.
> 
> Because you were incorrectly sized to a bike you're now faced with making adjustments that wouldn't normally be required. Ideally, once a cyclist is sized, fit amounts to little more than tweaks, so yes, I think you'd be trying to adjust a bike that's ultimately too small for you, but sometimes that's the only option people have.
> 
> ...


Sorry if my post sounded a bit abrupt, that definitely wasn't my intention, haha. But I'll start the process of selling it, they seem to be fetching between $5-700 on eBay so that will be a nice chunk out of a new bike.  

For the next bike, I'm not going back to that same LBS. I'll try and find a new one around my area, and see what they say. Now off to research new rides!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> *Sorry if my post sounded a bit abrupt*, that definitely wasn't my intention, haha. But I'll start the process of selling it, they seem to be fetching between $5-700 on eBay so that will be a nice chunk out of a new bike.
> 
> For the next bike, I'm not going back to that same LBS. I'll try and find a new one around my area, and see what they say. Now off to research new rides!


I didn't take it that way at all. No worries.  

Good luck in your search, and FWIW I agree that seeking out another shop... well, fitter is best. If you have any questions along the way or you decide to try the adjustments in the interim, post again and we'll assist.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Just a little update for everyone, I went to another local bike shop that I totally forgot even existed and came away with some excellent information.

Apparently the shop I had purchased the Trek from is pretty much a joke, none of their employees actually took fit classes nor have extended knowledge in the area. I was the fourth person in their shop today with an issue regarding the other shop. 

The new shop deals in Specialized mainly along with Felt and a few others but Specialized is their flagship brand. I rode a few bikes including the Roubaix Expert Compact and cheaper Roubaix Elite Compact, both in 58cm. The Roubaix line has a taller headtube and I noticed an immediate change over my Trek. The Roubaix was snappy and comfortable. They actually just got the 2011's in and are willing to deal on this years models, offering initial discounts of 20% which is pretty damn good and I'm willing to bet they'll deepen the discount if when we actually get to dealing. 

Now comes my decision, I really liked the Specializeds I rode and I think they offer a pretty good value. The two models I rode priced in $3300 for the Expert and $2200 for the Elite, both prices are before discount. The main difference is the components, and wheelset, and a few minor frame differences. The Expert is full Ultegra and the Elite is full 105. Having rode both of them, the Ultegra felt slightly smoother and more responsive, I must emphasize that it was slight. Is it worth the extra $600 it would cost me to get the Ultegra group? 

On a side note, I was also wondering if Shimano SPD-SL shoes were compatible with the Speedplay zero system? I rode a friends bike with this set up and greatly enjoyed it.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I've owned 105, Ultrega, and Dura Ace gruppos. Right now I have one bike that's 105 & the other Dura Ace. The Ultegra is, IMO, a very fine group virtually indistinguishable from the top-of-the-line Dura Ace. The 105 works very well. It's a little heavier & a little clunkier than the Dura Ace, but it works just fine. If you got the 105 you'd likely be happy with it for some years.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Just a little update for everyone, I went to another local bike shop that I totally forgot even existed and came away with some excellent information.
> 
> Apparently the shop I had purchased the Trek from is pretty much a joke, none of their employees actually took fit classes nor have extended knowledge in the area. I was the fourth person in their shop today with an issue regarding the other shop.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you've found yourself a reputable LBS. Now, considering all you've been through relating to fit, make sure they take their time and get sizing right.  

Regarding the two Roubaix's, they're both great bikes, but IMO you'll gain little going with the Expert over the Elite. The Experts frameset will weight a little less and Ultegra is a shade more refined than 105, but the differences are minimal. As long as the drivetrain is set up/ tuned correctly, in real world conditions you won't notice any difference.

The Speedplays are compatible with the SPD-SL shoes, but will require different cleats and an extra mounting plate for your three hole system. Go to the link below and look under features for more info. There's also a pic showing the plates and cleats:
http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...oad+Pedal&vendorCode=SPEDPLAY&major=5&minor=2


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Hey everyone, I have another update. My Trek sold and I just got the funds today, I've been going to the LBS every few days, gathering info, getting numbers then sleeping on all the info. I've ridden about 10 bikes now, from an Allez all the way to an SL3, which was freakin awesome BTW. I just wanted to compare the low to the high end, and see how much they differed (it was pretty drastic I think)

After riding a few Tarmacs I decided I like them more than the Roubaixs, though the Roubaix was slightly more comfortable due to the taller headtube, I felt it lacked a little "get up and go" when I stood and really wanted to accelerate. The one Tarmac I was looking at is a 2008 Elite, being it is a few years old the discount is deeper. It has 105 main components but generic brakes, FSA crankset and mavic wheels. Two questions, are there any drastic differences between the '08 105 and '10 105(I'm thinking no)? And, he gave me an initial out the door number of 1750 (I'm pretty sure), that's without haggling. Is this a fair price? Specialized specs: http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=34093&menuItemId=0

I want to upgrade a few things on this bike, but if I can get a good deal on it initially I think that the discount will far outweigh the draw backs of having only a partial 105 group.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Hey everyone, I have another update. My Trek sold and I just got the funds today, I've been going to the LBS every few days, gathering info, getting numbers then sleeping on all the info. I've ridden about 10 bikes now, from an Allez all the way to an SL3, which was freakin awesome BTW. I just wanted to compare the low to the high end, and see how much they differed (it was pretty drastic I think)
> 
> After riding a few Tarmacs I decided I like them more than the Roubaixs, though the Roubaix was slightly more comfortable due to the taller headtube, I felt it lacked a little "get up and go" when I stood and really wanted to accelerate. The one Tarmac I was looking at is a 2008 Elite, being it is a few years old the discount is deeper. It has 105 main components but generic brakes, FSA crankset and mavic wheels. Two questions, are there any drastic differences between the '08 105 and '10 105(I'm thinking no)? And, he gave me an initial out the door number of 1750 (I'm pretty sure), that's without haggling. Is this a fair price? Specialized specs: http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=34093&menuItemId=0
> 
> I want to upgrade a few things on this bike, but if I can get a good deal on it initially I think that the discount will far outweigh the draw backs of having only a partial 105 group.


That's a very good price for the '08 Tarmac Elite. I have the same year Tarmac Comp (same frameset w/ full 105) and paid about $2300. Since the '08 model year the only change in the frameset is in the CF designation that Specialized uses - 6r for the '08 and 8r for the current model year. IMO the differences will be so subtle as to be indiscernible, and definitely not worth the difference in price. And for under $200 you could upgrade the crankset if/ when you encounter problems with the FSA.

I share you views of the Tarmac versus Roubaix. They're both nice bikes, but have different 'personalitlies', and I prefer the quicker/ livelier ride and handling of the Tarmac.

Given your history with fit issues, whatever you decide to do make sure the bike fits and feels right. If you haven't already done so, take this bike out on the roads for a few miles (at minimum) to get a good feel for fit, ride and handling.

Just curious, going back in your posts I saw that you were riding 58cm Specialized bikes. Is that the size you're considering buying from this LBS?


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

The guy I've been dealing with at the shop is all about fit, every time I've gone in his first question after short test rides has always been about fit, if I was comfortable etc etc. I have been riding 58cm's yes and that's the size I may go for, I have yet to ride a 61cm next time in I will. Why do you ask?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> The guy I've been dealing with at the shop is all about fit, every time I've gone in his first question after short test rides has always been about fit, if I was comfortable etc etc. I have been riding 58cm's yes and that's the size I may go for, I have yet to ride a 61cm next time in I will. *Why do you ask*?


I was asking because you're test riding a two year old (new) bike, so I was hoping that the LBS wasn't trying to sell off old inventory to an unsuspecting soul (no offense). After what you've just offered, I don't think that's the case, so my fears have been allayed.  

I agree that the 61cm is worth a try, if for no other reason than to help you make a more educated decision. If the LBS fitter is good, he'll probably have an idea if it'll work during the fit process.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

The 2008 I'm looking at right now is a 58 and it seems like it will work out nicely. I think I'll be going in tomorrow to talk some final numbers. I'm looking at getting the Speedplay pedals as I mentioned above as well as a wireless computer with cadence, I included my old wired Cateye with the Trek. So, since it's a 2 year old bike and he said he wants to move it (if it fits, I'm perfectly fine with that, more money stays in my pocket) I'll see if I can get out the door for $1900 pedals and computer included. Not sure if that will work, but it's worth a try right? Haha.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> The 2008 I'm looking at right now is a 58 and it seems like it will work out nicely. I think I'll be going in tomorrow to talk some final numbers. I'm looking at getting the Speedplay pedals as I mentioned above as well as a wireless computer with cadence, I included my old wired Cateye with the Trek. So, since it's a 2 year old bike and he said he wants to move it (if it fits, I'm perfectly fine with that, more money stays in my pocket) I'll see if I can get out the door for $1900 pedals and computer included. Not sure if that will work, but it's worth a try right? Haha.


Yes, it is worth a try, but even if you inch up from that number, I think you'll be getting a very nice bike for a very nice price. Good luck!! :thumbsup:

Oh, and we'll need to see pics, or the bike doesn't exist.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Don't worry, if it works out there will be pictures, lot's of them. Thanks for all your help!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Don't worry, if it works out there will be pictures, lot's of them. Thanks for all your help!


:thumbsup:


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

*yay!*

Went in today and picked up the Tarmac Elite, love it. I also picked up Speedplay stainless steel pedals and a Sigma double wireless computer. Out the door for $2000 flat. Pretty damn good considering the pedals retailed at $200 and the computer at $90. First long ride will come tomorrow.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Congrats on the new bike, _very_ nice!! :thumbsup:

I agree that you got a great deal. Ride often, ride safe and be sure to update us on how your ride goes tomorrow. _Enjoy!! _


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## Spanky_88007 (Aug 28, 2008)

Wow, that bike looks great! You're gonna love it, man.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

I took her out for 10 miles today, I woke up late and wasn't going to initially as it was already 95 out with wind. But, it's sitting right next to where I watch TV, I couldn't resist. I planned on a quick 4 miles but before my turn around point the bike felt so great so I just kept going. It was pretty damn hot and I didn't bring enough water but it bike was amazing. I'm working on waking up earlier so I can ride more everyday.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> I took her out for 10 miles today, I woke up late and wasn't going to initially as it was already 95 out with wind. But, it's sitting right next to where I watch TV, I couldn't resist. I planned on a quick 4 miles but before my turn around point the bike felt so great so I just kept going. It was pretty damn hot and I didn't bring enough water but it bike was amazing. I'm working on waking up earlier so I can ride more everyday.


Glad you're enjoying the bike, but you have to be careful in the heat... gotta stay hydrated, so now you know for next time. If you're not already doing so, consider taking two water bottles, and if possible take breaks along the way (out of the sun).

Enjoy the bike, and update us with riding impressions after you build some saddle time.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

I've logged about 200 miles now, I'm crediting those miles to the fit of the bike, it's flat out comfortable. I had to take it in to the shop Tuesday because the stock tires were literally cracking. The LBS took care of me, they upgraded my tires to s-works mondo's at no charge (free tires, yay) 

I'm trying to train for a few upcoming rides, I'm doing the 45 mile leg of the High Sierra Fall Century (http://www.fallcentury.org/) next month. This is going to be a suffer fest but I think the experience is too good to pass up. I'm also doing the High Desert Fall Century (http://www.highdesertcyclists.com/?page_id=241) in October. I haven't decided which distance yet, I think it will depend on how the High Sierra ride goes. 

Overall, I'm just loving this bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> *I've logged about 200 miles now, I'm crediting those miles to the fit of the bike, it's flat out comfortable.* I had to take it in to the shop Tuesday because the stock tires were literally cracking. The LBS took care of me, they upgraded my tires to s-works mondo's at no charge (free tires, yay)
> 
> I'm trying to train for a few upcoming rides, I'm doing the 45 mile leg of the High Sierra Fall Century (http://www.fallcentury.org/) next month. This is going to be a suffer fest but I think the experience is too good to pass up. I'm also doing the High Desert Fall Century (http://www.highdesertcyclists.com/?page_id=241) in October. I haven't decided which distance yet, I think it will depend on how the High Sierra ride goes.
> 
> Overall, I'm just loving this bike.


Absolutely, a good fit goes a long way in keeping us motivated to ride and helps us ride longer (and in more comfort). 

That's odd about the tires. I don't know what Specialized OEM'd on your Tarmac, but mine had Mondo Pro's which I stuck with for the first two seasons, then switched to Conti GP 4000s's. I like the Conti's better, but never had a problem wiht the Spec's. 

Those links to upcoming events look interesting. I think you're plan to see how the first goes is a good one, but I'm sure you'll do fine.

Glad you're enjoying your new ride. Keep us updated along the way.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

The OEM tires were the mondo pros as well. I'm not sure why they were cracked, they delivered a really harsh ride, nearly comparable to my old Trek. Maybe the combination of age and lack of use contributed to the cracking. Once the new ones were installed it was like night and day, it made the ride much more comfortable and turning felt a lot more grippy for lack of a better word.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Another update, I have 430 miles on it now and it's still riding perfectly, my rides now average 40-60 miles much more than they were just one month ago. I was gifted with 2 flats this week, which are always fun though easily repaired. 

I will be living in my mountain house full time starting in a few weeks so I went to the LBS and had them order a compact crank. My Tarmac was spec'd with a double and my legs don't enjoy anything over 6% with that set up. I ended up paying more than I would if I had done it myself, but they have been good to me so I figured I would throw them some business. 

My next big purchase will be some sort of indoor trainer or a set of rollers. Once November hits, my outdoor riding will be done until March and I need a way to continue losing weight. I know the topic has been discussed but I still haven't decided which device would best suit my needs of continued weight loss and strength gains. Any suggestions are more than welcome.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Another update, I have 430 miles on it now and it's still riding perfectly, my rides now average 40-60 miles much more than they were just one month ago. I was gifted with 2 flats this week, which are always fun though easily repaired.
> 
> I will be living in my mountain house full time starting in a few weeks so I went to the LBS and had them order a compact crank. My Tarmac was spec'd with a double and my legs don't enjoy anything over 6% with that set up. I ended up paying more than I would if I had done it myself, but they have been good to me so I figured I would throw them some business.
> 
> My next big purchase will be some sort of indoor trainer or a set of rollers. Once November hits, my outdoor riding will be done until March and I need a way to continue losing weight. I know the topic has been discussed but* I still haven't decided which device would best suit my needs of continued weight loss and strength gains. * Any suggestions are more than welcome.


If your goals are to loose weight and gain fitness, either rollers or a mag/ fluid trainer will work. As other have mentioned in the related thread, the rollers have the advantage of smoothing the pedal stroke and help hone bike handling skills. I've been riding long enough that my view towards off season 'riding' is purely maintenance, so a mag trainer suffices.

If you go with a trainer, I suggest getting one with adjustable resistance (at the bars). That in conjunction with a HRM will allow you to regulate intensity and gauge cardio effort. 

Sounds like you and your new bike are getting along pretty well together.


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## DaveNYRB (Sep 3, 2010)

Sounds like you're moving along quite well on the bike. I've just got my bike a couple of weeks ago and really need to log more miles. Was thinking of the trainer soon too. I tried the Roubaix as well when I was looking for a road bike and ended up with something I didn't expect but was close to a Cannondale Six which I was close to getting after trying Cannondales and Specialized bikes.

Anyways, just wanted to respond and let you know the updates you've been providing are motivating me to get out and ride more. Congrats on the Tarmac.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Wanted to give one final update to this thread, my season is coming to a close for the most part here in about 2 weeks. I'm closing in on 1,000 miles which is a little less than I wanted to close out with but still acceptable in my mind. 

I completed my first metric century 2 weeks ago, then a full century the following weekend both were easier than anticipated though the miles 75-85 of the full were pretty tough. I have one more organized ride lined up and I think that will about do it. 

I'm fortunate enough that my house in the mountains has 1k feet of climbing in 4 miles out the front door and much more if I simply keep riding. That should keep me busy until the snow falls. 

Metric:
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Anyway, thanks PJ for all your help you were instrumental in my success so far.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Thanks for the update (and the kind words), but I think _you_ were instrumental in your success. It's great that you did both a metric and century ride this season (back to back, no less), so kudo's to you for those accomplishments and getting 1k under your belt - including some healthy climbs. Now you can aim for 2k next year!  

Any thoughts for the off season? Skiing? Trainer? Rollers?


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Thanks for the update (and the kind words), but I think _you_ were instrumental in your success. It's great that you did both a metric and century ride this season (back to back, no less), so kudo's to you for those accomplishments and getting 1k under your belt - including some healthy climbs. Now you can aim for 2k next year!
> 
> Any thoughts for the off season? Skiing? Trainer? Rollers?


I snowboard on average 150 days a year so I have that covered. I'll be getting a trainer here in a few weeks, maybe I'll pick up some rollers mid-winter for kicks. Next season I'm looking at 5k, which is a pretty healthy goal I think.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> I snowboard on average 150 days a year so I have that covered. I'll be getting a trainer here in a few weeks, maybe I'll pick up some rollers mid-winter for kicks. Next season I'm looking at 5k, which is a pretty healthy goal I think.


Sounds good. Depending on the length of your season, 5K can be a_ very _healthy goal. I managed a little over 3,500 since April, which is a little higher than my average.

I hate the trainer, but have found that come springtime I'm thankful I've at least maintained my fitness level, otherwise I start from square one. Not fun.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

Definitely, I tended to not ride as much as I could have the past 2 months. I didn't want to overdo it wanted to get my body used to expending that much energy, I think with regular trainer work outs I should be able to reach my target weight by the time the season begins and should be accustom to pushing myself. So next year I should be able to hit it hard and see where it takes me. I've been pondering racing, so that may be my ultimate goal for the 2012 season. Overall, I think this may develop into a lifelong sport/hobby, it's much easier on my knees (well my whole body actually, then snowboarding is!)


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mtrider05 said:


> Definitely, I tended to not ride as much as I could have the past 2 months. I didn't want to overdo it wanted to get my body used to expending that much energy, I think with regular trainer work outs I should be able to reach my target weight by the time the season begins and should be accustom to pushing myself. So next year I should be able to hit it hard and see where it takes me. *I've been pondering racing*, so that may be my ultimate goal for the 2012 season. *Overall, I think this may develop into a lifelong sport/hobby, it's much easier on my knees *(well my whole body actually, then snowboarding is!)


JMO but while I definitely see the draw to racing, I'd be cautious of racing a CF bike - gets expensive to repair/ replace. You may want to consider an Allez (or similar) for that endeavor.

I'm a 'couple' of years older than you and have already managed 25+ years of cycling, so it's already a lifelong sport and has been a very positive force in my life. Just be sure to keep cadence up and spare those knees.


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## mtrider05 (Aug 8, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> JMO but while I definitely see the draw to racing, I'd be cautious of racing a CF bike - gets expensive to repair/ replace. You may want to consider an Allez (or similar) for that endeavor.
> 
> I'm a 'couple' of years older than you and have already managed 25+ years of cycling, so it's already a lifelong sport and has been a very positive force in my life. Just be sure to keep cadence up and spare those knees.


I hear ya on the CF, I'm contemplating on how to approach that but that won't be for a year or so, so I have some time to ponder.


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