# Changing shift cables - tips, tricks?



## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

I am going to change my shift cables tonight. I have read all the literature from Park and Zinn and have a good idea of what needs to be done. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that will make my evening easier? All the above reading says is to make sure your housing is the right length and then just attach the cables and roll on. There has to be something I'm missing, like "make sure the barrel adjuster is 1/2 way in" or "make sure you are in the small/small gear combo" or "it would be great if you had a five hands" or something similar. At minimum there are probably some adjustments to the f.der and r.der?

I had a difficult time getting my brakes adjusted correctly last night because I couldn't hold the brakes in place, pull the cable tight and screw in the cable fixing bolt at the same time. Thank goodness for the wife! 

So I beseach all you wrenches out there, lay some of those tips and tricks on me and save me from going slowly insane.


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*A few hints*



innergel said:


> "make sure the barrel adjuster is 1/2 way in" or "make sure you are in the small/small gear combo" or "it would be great if you had a five hands"


Yes, Yes and Yes

A few suggestions:
1) Do one cable at a time. It makes remembering how they are routed easier.
2) To cut housing use a Dremel tool. You can use the old housing as a guide for the proper length ASSUMING that the housings were the proper length when initially installed.
3) Cut the cable long and then trim it later after you get shifting and braking dialed in.
4) Dip the ends of the cut cable in a tube of SuperGlue to make a nice clean finish that will not fray.


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## benInMA (Jan 22, 2004)

1) Take all the barrel adjusters out of the frame & deraiuller and clean and lube them, they can get dirty and end up stuck in the frame which is bad. Clean up excess grease.

2) Set the barrel adjusters 1/2 way through their travel. (Others may disagree)

3) Use your old housing as a template to cut the new housing to the right length. Park's guide is good here, a lot of time the shop that did your bike the last time will have cut the cable too short or too long. Over time you will come to recognize this and be able to figure out the lengths yourself.

4) Make sure you have the right tools, cutting housing & cable is much easier with a real bicycle cable/housing tool.

5) Brake housing should be filed or dremeled to clean up the crushed edge, then stick a nail or needle in the housing carefully to open up the end if it is not round. Shift housing will not need to be filed by it may still be a good idea to open up the ends. Make sure to test the housing by inserting a cable to make sure there is no friction.

6) Put a very light coat of grease on the cable. After you are finished you will want to wipe the grease away from exposed areas to prevent dirt from sticking.

6) Only do one deraiuller at a time. I do the back first, then the front. I am assuming you know how to do the deraiulluer adjustment. If you do one at a time it makes it easier to get the adjustment correct quickly.

7) You can also crimp one of the little metal cable ends onto the cable, or solder the end.

Once you get good at this it is great, it is cheap enough to do more often, and it is not hard to get to the point where you can keep your shifting working really well, better the job that most shops will do!

Now for the tricky part, try it on a dual suspension mountain bike where a bad cable job can get affected by the suspension travelling through it's range!


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## Al1943 (Jun 23, 2003)

Go to the Park tool site for cable attachment and derailleur adjustment instructions.

Be sure to pull the free end of the new cables while working the small shift lever (knob) so that the shifters are in the maximum "cable out" position before attaching the cables to the derailleurs.

If the old housings are the correct length you can simply make the new housings the same length.

Al


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## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

*don't think this concerns you but...*

If you have internal cable routing..don't just pull out the old cables/housing out of the frame.

first take a long section of cable housing, and slip it over the old cables, routing through the frame and out (this may take several sections, one for each in/out in the frame), then pull the cable out-that way you can slip the new ones in nice and easy later; without having to fish them through the frame.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*brake cables made easy..*

Brake cables are easy to adjust with only two hands and no special tools. Start with the barrel adjusted back out a fair amount, maybe a turn or two past halfway. Pinch the brake pads together, tight against the rim with one hand, pull on the the cable to eliminate any slack, then tighten the cable clamp bolt. When you release your hand from the brake pads, the adjustment should be too tight. Just screw the barrel adjuster in to loosen the cable enough to produce the desired pad clearance, or the desired lever position relative to the bars, with the brake fully applied.

When setting up the derailleur cables, I prefer to screw the barrel adjuster in all the way, including the one on the rear derailleur. After pulling the cables tight by hand and tightening the cable clamps, it usually requires at least a couple of turns outward to get enough tension. If you're lucky, the adjusters will be at mid range when the proper adjustment is achieved. Makes more sense than starting at the midpoint, because it's rare that anyone would pull a cable tight enough by hand, particularly a new one. Also expect for the barrel adjusters to require an occasional 1/4 turn tighter during the first fews rides (another reason to start with all the way in).


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## rdbike (Sep 10, 2003)

*get the park tool*

I tried a rotary and basically melted the inside plastic sheath on the outer housing. Stopped after one cable. I bought the Park cable cutter and everything went smooth as silk. Learned alot (mostly about rear derailers)...piece of cake if you are mech. inclined.


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## Spunout (Aug 12, 2002)

And the park tool that holds your brake calipers closed, that does wonders for me. Park cable cutter, awl (re-open the casing, housing) and a chrome file (file flat the end of the brake housings).

Great to leave all uncut cable until you're happy with the housings. Without wife, makes it easier for me to pull the cable in my teeth while tightening the bolt! 

With Campy kits and shifting routing, I usually find that leaving the housings from the ergo shifters a little bit longer (sorry if it is too late!) result in better performance. Nice swoopy loops.


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## Slip Stream (Jul 19, 2002)

A rubber band or twisty tie (like the one that closes bread bags) work well as a third hand brake tool. Just run the rubber band from one pad or arm to the other enough times that it holds the brake closed. As for me, I get the brake adjustment close and fine tune with barrel adjustments and the right-left screw adjuster.


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## t5rguy (Jul 4, 2003)

*replacing a gearshift cable, the easy way ...*

Some months ago I switched a complete handlebar/brakelever (ergopower) combo, handlebar tape included from one bikeframe to another. Everything was put together again, it fit fine, except for the FD gearshiftcable. The cable was too short (different frame measurements I guess).
Since this was my first experience with ergopower after 25 years of downtube shifters, the problem kept me sleepless for a night; I didn't want to take everything apart again. The solution was simple. I left everything in place and pushed the old cable out through the little hole in the side of the brake lever. Then I pushed the new cable in through the same little hole. It found the cable housing (under the tape!) very easily, came out no problem. I guess this is because of the great quality of modern gear cables. 
This method gives a good result, assuming the cable housing is still in good shape. Always nice to find out something is easier than expected!


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## Johnnysmooth (Jun 10, 2004)

*Been there, done that...*

"Now for the tricky part, try it on a dual suspension mountain bike where a bad cable job can get affected by the suspension travelling through it's range!"

Actually, I was the one that did it this fall when I was overhauling my MTB. Went ahead and cut the cable housing for my rear brake like I would for my road bike, little if any slack. Went out for a ride and damn if my braking was causing me all sorts of grief. Took a awhile to figure out, out there on the trails, but once I did - mea culpa!


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

*Lots of info here - awesome!*

Excellent replies from everyone. Here's a few small details/questions I seem to have left out.

1. I have the Park cable cutter. It seems to work best to cut the housing when there is an old piece in there. It keeps it from getting crushed. And who knew there was a crimper built into the handle! I used a pair of pliers, which weren't so hot. 

2. A file and a nail are good things to have on hand. So is a wife who can work a hex wrench. 

3. I never thought about a rubber band to use as a third hand brake tool. A zip tie will probably work too. And they are a lot cheaper than yet another blue tool 

4. All cables and housing get replaced together. 

5. Do I need to be in the small/small combo?

6. Will I need to adjust the limit screws when the new cables are installed, or just tweak the cable tension? 

BTW - I didn't get to it last night. I'll take a run at it tonight. My wife didn't want to spend Valentines Day in our garage working on my bike. Imagine that


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## CoachRob (Sep 14, 2004)

*5. Do I need to be in the small/small combo?*

For Shimano shifters, yes, you definitely do in order to get the cables in and out correctly.

*6. Will I need to adjust the limit screws when the new cables are installed, or just tweak the cable tension?*

No limit screw adjustment needed unless you move the DR's. The limit screws only change how far in or out the DR's move with respect to the cassette and chainrings. Assuming none of them have changed positions, the set screws do not have to change. The TENSION of the new cable will have to be adjusted, as the movement of the DR may be too loose or tight (requiring tightening or loosening of the barrel adjusters, respectively). But so long as the DR's aren't unbolted (for cleaning, etc.) and the cassette/chainrings aren't moved, the set screws should be okay (assuming they are okay BEFORE the cables are changed).


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

*when you attach the cables*

to the derailleurs, you need to be in small, small. and, while i think it's great to use a dremel to finish off housing, it's overkill for sure. i use the cable cutter for derailleur housing, and the sidecutters for brake housing. have something sharp to open the end of the liner up. i also NEVER lube the cable. if the housing has some grease in it, that's ok, but the more lube you use, the more dirt you'll attract. the lining in the housing is pretty smooth w/o grease, and your shifting and brakes will be fine w/o. the dirt is going to end up getting in there anyway, so i wouldn't sweat that one. do whatever feels right to you. 
once the cables are attached, grab the shift cables under the downtube and give a few good tugs on them, and readjust. then grab a handfull of brake 4-5 times and compress the brake housing. readjust. everything should be all set.


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## CoachRob (Sep 14, 2004)

For stretching brake cables, I pump them a few times, then hold the brake levers as far in as possible and hold them in that position overnight with rubber bands or a similar item. Then, the next day, I readjust the newly stretched brake cables and I'm good to go. Just make sure the brake levers are all the way in when securing them overnight. This also serves to compress the cable housings.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

*I'm finished!*

and everything seems to be working fine. At least while the bike is still in the workstand. There was a small issue with the shifting on the rear, but a few tweaks of the barrel adjuster seemed to fix that. I'll take it out for a short spin after work and do some shifting under load, but I'm expecting no problems. 

All in all, this was a very easy job and I will certainly do this job a lot more quickly the next time around, now that I know what to look for. My wife even said that it looked good and wants some shiney new housing and cables on her bike! 

The more I do my own wrenching, the more I like it. I think my LBS is going to be a little ticked at me, as they won't be getting as much wrenching business from me as before  I've even managed to do some light wrenching on my buddies bikes. No complaints so far, so I must be doing something right.

As usual, these forums are a great source of info and inspiration. Thanks to everyone for all the good advice. 

I'll wrap the bars tonight and try and post a few pics of the final result.


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## CoachRob (Sep 14, 2004)

Make sure you wrap them correctly. There are a few threads on this topic in the forum (see http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=16315&highlight=wrapping+bar for the best I've read). Most people start in the drop and work toward the stem. 

On the right, you wrap CLOCKWISE, so that when you get to the top, you are wrapping AWAY from you, OVER the top. On the left, you wrap CCW, with the same result. The Park web site does it the exact opposite and the general consensus on this forum was that most people do it CW on the right, CCW on the left. I emailed Park about this, and they never responded.


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## geebo81 (Oct 21, 2012)

Thanks Guy, 

Some really useful tips.

#1 Tip thou is try and not buy your tools direct from a bike specialist, try amazon or ebay and you will get them for half of the price.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

rdbike said:


> I tried a rotary and basically melted the inside plastic sheath on the outer housing.


Cable cutters work well, but FWIW, if you do use a cutoff wheel to cut the housing or square up the end after using cutters and melt the end of the liner, it's a simple matter to push the cable through from the other end to open it back up, or use a sharp awl.


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## bleckb (Jun 13, 2005)

I just did the same job on my bike, after way too long, and boy does it shift nice. Like new. 

I didn't read all of the responses thoroughly, but I don't think this was touched on. I put the caps on the cable housing. I know not everyone does. They fit rather snugly in some of the housings, feeling like they are not all the way in. They may work their way in over time. Mine did after just a couple of commutes. If all of a sudden the shift cables are way slacker than before, that might be the cause. It's worth a look anyway.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

bleckb said:


> I just did the same job on my bike, after way too long, and boy does it shift nice. Like new.
> 
> I didn't read all of the responses thoroughly, but I don't think this was touched on. I put the caps on the cable housing. I know not everyone does. They fit rather snugly in some of the housings, feeling like they are not all the way in. They may work their way in over time. Mine did after just a couple of commutes. If all of a sudden the shift cables are way slacker than before, that might be the cause. It's worth a look anyway.


generally ALL housing should have *ferrules*, the exceptions being Campy 11speed shifters, and Shimano brakes. you should ALWAYS use them in the housing stops on the frame unless they absolutely won't fit. for SRAM and Shimano shifters they should be alloy, not plastic. 
and when you're adjusting the shifting you should also be making sure the ferrules are completely seated on the housing. you should not have to 'touch up' the shifting after a ride or 2.


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## bleckb (Jun 13, 2005)

I'm going to say the operative word here could be "should." I did what I could to make sure the cables and ferrules were all properly seated, but they were a pretty tight fit in the adjusters in the downtube shifter spot. I could see, since I did them one at a time, that they just weren't getting in as far as those I was replacing at the shift levers as well. Why, I don't know.

I agree that they should seat properly right away, but for me, they didn't seem to this time. It was all Shimano to Shimano, nothing funky. Maybe one just bound up somehow. Either way, shifting got sloppy on a commute and it was an easy fix to pull up the slack.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

bleckb said:


> I'm going to say the operative word here could be "should." I did what I could to make sure the cables and ferrules were all properly seated, but they were a pretty tight fit in the adjusters in the downtube shifter spot. I could see, since I did them one at a time, that they just weren't getting in as far as those I was replacing at the shift levers as well. Why, I don't know.
> 
> I agree that they should seat properly right away, but for me, they didn't seem to this time. It was all Shimano to Shimano, nothing funky. Maybe one just bound up somehow. Either way, shifting got sloppy on a commute and it was an easy fix to pull up the slack.


it's easy to take care of that in the stand. you hold the derailleur body in your hand and paddle the shifter. do that a few times, then pull the cable tight. do it again. done. i'm a team mechanic as well as a shop mechanic...it's easier to do it right the first time and not have to mess with the same bike repeatedly.


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## bleckb (Jun 13, 2005)

If I do it right the first time, I won't get to keep the honorific of being a backyard bungler.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

bleckb said:


> If I do it right the first time, I won't get to keep the honorific of being a backyard bungler.


there is that...:thumbsup:


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

Thanks to geebo81 for the thread resurrection. I'm doing my first cable/housing replacement today. Doesn't look too hard, but I've thought those words before...


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## andyjc (May 18, 2011)

I use a dremel tool to cut cables and then reopen the liner with a throwing dart. Works very well and gives really crisp shifting.


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## AndreyT (Dec 1, 2011)

When trying to cut the new housing to match the original housing length, you have to be very careful when measuring them. In order to measure and cut the new segment, align the ends of the new and old housing (it is a good idea to use a piece of tape to temporarily hold the ends together). Then slide your fingers along the length of the segment in _small_ steps, keeping both housings firmly together at each step, until you reach the other end. Mark the end. Don't cut yet. Repeat the process several times to make sure that the mark is placed correctly. Only then you can cut.

Trying to rush this procedure results in serious errors. For example, if you try to hold the housing together and simply slide your hand over both of them to find the other end, the measurement error can reach catastrophic proportions, with the new housing ending up much too short.

One can also use a straight ruler to measure the old housing and then cut the same length from the new one. This might work even better. Just remember to keep the housings very straight to avoid serious measurement errors.


 Remember that some housings are more stiff than the others. When the new housing is stiffer then the old one, it might make sense to make it a bit longer, since it is harder to force stiffer housing to conform to the desired shape. Stiffer housing prefers gentler curves. If you cut them to the same length, don't be surprised if the stiffer housing will suddenly look and feel too short.

This usually happens when switching from ordinary spiral-wound brake housing to compressionless brake housing. Compressionless housing is noticeably stiffer, so it might make sense to cut it a bit longer. (How much longer - depends on your configuration). In any case, it is easy to shorten a housing that is too long, while the reverse is impossible.


 Rotary cut-off tool (Dremel, etc.) does work well for cutting the housing. However, it will indeed melt the outer and the inner liner. For this reason, make your cuts straight, fast and decisive. Don't linger and overheat the housing. The same applies when "squaring" the end of the housing.

Rotary cut-off will also cause some of the metal "dust" to fall into the cable channel. However, I never had any issues caused by that.


 Don't use cheap thin-metal housing end caps (ferrules) with brake cable housing, especially the ordinary housing with spiral shell. Braking loads are so high that the end of the inner spiral will push through the ferrule, deforming the ferrule and sometimes even ripping the end hole open. (This is one of the reasons for brake "cable stretch". I.e. it is not really the cable that stretches, but rather the ferrules that start to "give".)


 When attaching the cable to the front derailleur arm, don't forget to route it _around_ that special cable support "bump" present on the FD arm, right before the pinch bolt. The purpose of that "bump" is to make sure that the cable always bends very gently as the arm moves up and down. I've seen quite a few people forget about it and route the cable directly to the pinch bolt, creating a sharp bend in the cable. A cable pinched in that incorrect way will fail very quickly under use.


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

I replaced my housings/cables yesterday using the Jagwire road kit, was very easy using the Park cutter and third hand tools. Took me a couple hours and I'm guessing it will take about half that or less next time.


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