# My Tubular Romance - A pictorial Blog about tubulars



## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Inspired by many threads about tubulars on the road I decided to give them the chance to win my heart.

I have been in clinchers on the road since forever. I rcurrently ride on summer season on Dura Ace 7850-C24-CL/Vittoria Open Corsa 700x23c and on winters on a DA/Open Pro/Vittoria Open Pave 700x24c.

I have been very satisfied with those wheels, they are great. 

The main reason to use clinchers over tubulars is that they are practical in case of flats. However I have had very few flats in the last 10 years on the road, really only 3 in 10 years is not much.

Last season I started using tubulars on the Cross bike and got hooked on them.

So this year as I already sold the Mavic Ksyriums and Cosmics, I decided to go on tubulars full time.

I built me a set of Dura Ace/GP4/Revolution-CompDS and a set of Vittoria Pave 27" for the bad weather/winter and I also bought a set of Dura Ace 7850-C24-TU and a set of Vittoria Corsa 23" tubulars.

I am expecting the 7850 and the Corsas to arrive any day.

I received the Pave 27" today so I proceeded to take some pictures to document you the experience so it could be useful for other guys wanting to do the same


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Here is the set of DA/GP4 with the Paves


















I was concerned about the size of the tubular, 27" should be big and probably not fit in my Bianchi

So i mounted the tubie to strecht it and went to see how it fits

the fit is quite good with plenty of room left


























looks good !


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I then compared it with the other wheels.

The first thing I noticed is that as the 7850-C24-CL has a wider rim, it made the 700x23c clincher look also fatter

This however will be best to compare it with the 7850-C24-TU when they arrive next week

The Pave 27" didn't really looked that big, as for example a Michelin 700x25c or a Conti 4 Seasons 700x28c clincher


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

The comparison with the DA/Open Pro/Open Pavé is more clear, here you can see the difference

Even though he main difference is in weight versus volume

DA/Open Pro/Revos, CompDS/Open Pavé 700x24c/Latex Tubes = 1149grs
DA/GP4/Revos, CompDS/Pavé 28x27" = 1049grs

100 grams saved per wheel and more volume


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I also weighed the rear wheels

DA/Open Pro/Revos, CompDS/Open Pavé 700x24c/Latex Tubes = 1292 grs
DA/GP4/Revos, CompDS/Pavé 28x27" = 1187grs

So a total of 205 grams less, but more volume.


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## JimP (Dec 18, 2001)

If you have an extra pair of those 27mm Victoria Paves, send them to me for a test. They should provide a ride like butter


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

they are for sale on an ebay shop in the UK, they ship worldwide

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vittoria-Pave...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item53e09c2ac3

I'll glue them tomorrow.


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## grodo (Aug 1, 2007)

*thanks*

that's really interesting to see the comparison. 

So, am I seeing that correctly? The 27c (tubulars) look about the same width/volume as the 24s (clinchers)? 

Look forward to your ride report too. (i ride the open Paves)


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

mmm, the picture doesn't really show it, I'll try to do pics tomorrow on daylight, the Pavés are larger and rounder.

I'll not know how much more comfortable they are until I can glue then and try them on the road.


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## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> mmm, the picture doesn't really show it, I'll try to do pics tomorrow on daylight, the Pavés are larger and rounder.
> 
> I'll not know how much more comfortable they are until I can glue then and try them on the road.


Can you measure the actual height and width of the 27mm Paves for me? I have old All Weathers which need replacing. Pave 27's look yummy but I need to know of they'll run in my bikes. Could you measure from the top of the rim to the top of the tyre and if possible the section or how much wider than the rim they are? I'm running GL330's and SSC's.

Thanks


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

25mm from the rim to the tubie end and 25mm wide.

They are no full blown in though just to 50psi as they are still not glued. but they feel already filled and round


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## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> 25mm from the rim to the tubie end and 25mm wide.
> 
> They are no full blown in though just to 50psi as they are still not glued. but they feel already filled and round


Oh dear. Looks like my wallet's going to take a kicking! Thanks


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## rocco (Apr 30, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> 25mm from the rim to the tubie end and 25mm wide.
> 
> They are no full blown in though just to 50psi as they are still not glued. but they feel already filled and round



I just received a batch of Pavé 24-28" tubular tires that are stretching on old rims. At 7 bar they measure 23.5mm wide and are very close to the same width and height as my 700 x 22 Continental Competition tubulars.

It seems like Vittoria tubular tires run 1.5 to 2mm smaller than the label suggests.


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## steve_e_f (Sep 8, 2003)

great post. I can't believe how cheap those corsa evos are!


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I am waiting for my set of 7850-C24-TU and Corsa 23mm to arrive, but due to the Iceland Volcano everything is in waiting state.

I haven't yet glued the Pavés I am lazy these times 

I was searching a set of 7850-C50-TU for a good price, but I was amazed to see this graphic about wheelset aerodynamics in which the power absorbed of the C50 is very similar to the C24. really very close

https://accel95.mettre-put-idata.ov...sts-Acheteur/base-de-donnees/aero_english.jpg

on the other side, the power needed to accelerate the C24 is much less than the C50

https://a10.idata.over-blog.com/0/02/72/10/Tests-Acheteur/base-de-donnees/inertia_june_08.jpg

is it then good to buy a second tubular carbon set ? I am not so sure now, probably the 7850-C24-TU is all that I would need.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

steve_e_f said:


> great post. I can't believe how cheap those corsa evos are!



I bought my Corsa Evo 23mm from Tom Bikes Corner in Germany

Only 41 EUR ( $ 55 ) on the 320tpi version , they ship worldwide 

http://www.tomsbikecorner.de/


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## zriggle (Apr 16, 2008)

Salsa_Lover said:


> I am waiting for my set of 7850-C24-TU and Corsa 23mm to arrive, but due to the Iceland Volcano everything is in waiting state.
> 
> I haven't yet glued the Pavés I am lazy these times
> 
> ...


The only thing that I don't like about that testing site is their aero test does not include the wheel at-speed. The wheel is just allowed to freely spin in the wind -- so the wheels may be rotating at different speeds during the test. Having them rotate at a fixed speed would make for a better test, IMO.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

After the Volcanic ash issue was cleared for the flights the wheels and tyres finally arrived

They are truly light

I weighted them and have the following results

Forward Wheel
----------------------
7850-C24-CL/Open Corsa 700x23c/Michelin Latex Tubes = 914 grs
7850-C24-TU/Corsa 28x23" = 763grs

Rear Wheel
----------------------
7850-C24-CL/Open Corsa 700x23c/Michelin Latex Tubes = 1122 grs
7850-C24-TU/Corsa 28x23" = 970grs


So weight savings of 303 grams !


The tubulars look slightly thinner though, due surely to the wider clincher rim


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I have a question for you wheel experts.

the tubulars are new, and I have read somewhere that I should lightly file the carbon surface so the glue could stick better to the wheel.

Is that true ? how should I do it ? with paper grit or with a true file ? or just glue them as they are ?


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## BeeCharmer (Apr 30, 2003)

*Outrageous shipping*



Salsa_Lover said:


> I bought my Corsa Evo 23mm from Tom Bikes Corner in Germany
> 
> Only 41 EUR ( $ 55 ) on the 320tpi version , they ship worldwide
> 
> http://www.tomsbikecorner.de/


Sure, but they charge 99 EUR to ship three tires to the US. I guess that would be first class shipping.


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## latman (Apr 24, 2004)

I am not a tubular expert but those lightly sanded/filed surfaces would get filled with glue anyway. Just hope when you take off the tires it leaves all the carbon rim behind !!!


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

BeeCharmer said:


> Sure, but they charge 99 EUR to ship three tires to the US. I guess that would be first class shipping.


Sorry about that, they do have cheap shipping costs inside the Eurozone though.

Otherwise I have also seen them in PBK at a good price, but I bought them from Tom's Bike Corner as they were quite cheaper there.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Today I finally received the 3 tubulars I was waiting for 

1 in 28x23 and 2 in 28x21, the Volcano ash delayed all deliveries and the customs offices were overloaded.

here they are










The 28x23 looks just slightly wider than the 21, but the higher volume becomes apparent when they are blown to ridable pressure.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I glued it this morning and it is drying now.

Unfortunately the weather report announces, sunny today while I am at the office and then many days of rain. I jus hope I can go out for a test ride tonight. it would be some 10 hours of drying time only.

would that be enough ? otherwise I would have to ride them in wet roads or on tuesday 

Here is the bike with Yellow King Pads, ready for its test ride tonight.

the 28x21 tubulars are on my stock waiting for when I eventually buy a set of DA 7850-C50-TU, I am just waiting to get the good deal on them


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## steve_e_f (Sep 8, 2003)

looking good!


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## tone12 (Feb 4, 2007)

I do appreciate riding on a good tubular. Here's my opinion on some of your questions above.

No, you do not need to file or sand your carbon rims. Just make sure they are clean and dry before applying the first layer of glue.

Yes, you can ride after only 10 hrs. I wouldn't go rail a corner but just going for a cruiser ride is fine.

What's your technique for gluing?


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

grrrr 

it started raining just when I went out of the office at 5:30pm yesterday

we have full wet roads and will be gray and rainy for many days according to the weather forecast.

I will wait until is dry before taking the new carbon wheels for test. 

I hope it is sooner than forecasted.

My technique for gluing is the traditional one I guess...

one generous layer of glue on the rim and on the base tape, wait 10 minutes, a second thin layer of glue on the rim and set the tubular in.

I did sanded it with fine sandpaper the rim, just a light sanding, and removed the stickers with serial numbers that were there, protected the braking surfaces with masking tape and did the gluing.

The bike is ready and waiting for the sun


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Salsa_Lover said:


> grrrr
> 
> it started raining just when I went out of the office at 5:30pm yesterday
> 
> ...


Just curious and sorry if the info is in one of the previous posts - what brand of glue and approximately how much per tire, i.e. 1 tube, 1.5 tubes ??

tia, Al


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I used Vittoria Mastik One, one full 30grs tube per wheelset. ( so half the tube per wheel )


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Salsa_Lover said:


> I used Vittoria Mastik One, one full 30grs tube per wheelset. ( so half the tube per wheel )


Your rolling resistance is probably higher than it could be with that amount of glue - you should be using ~ 2 tubes per wheel to get a good bond over ~ 100% of the base tape.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

usually a tube of Vittoria is recommended per a wheelset.

I could think about exagerating and use 1 tube per wheel if you want a superbly well glued set.

but your advice of 2 tubes per wheel seems to me excesive.


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Salsa_Lover said:


> usually a tube of Vittoria is recommended per a wheelset.
> 
> I could think about exagerating and use 1 tube per wheel if you want a superbly well glued set.
> 
> but your advice of 2 tubes per wheel seems to me excesive.


It's better to use too much than not enough. There is certainly a minimum amount of glue to get the optimum Crr but there doesn't seem to be a down side to using an excess amount of glue. You'd want to maximize the enjoyment of your new tires/wheels. Take a look at this link - read the notes on the first page.

http://biketechreview.com/tires/rolling-resistance/475-roller-data


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I found and interesting older article about tubulars

http://www2.bsn.com/cycling/tubulars.html


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## Lionel (Nov 22, 2004)

*mastik 1*

No way I would use 2 tubes of glue for one wheel. 1 tube per wheel is plenty. Too much glue is not a good idea.


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Lionel said:


> No way I would use 2 tubes of glue for one wheel. 1 tube per wheel is plenty. Too much glue is not a good idea.


Why do you think using ~ 2 tubes of Mastik One per wheel is a bad idea ??


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## Lionel (Nov 22, 2004)

AM999 said:


> Why do you think using ~ 2 tubes of Mastik One per wheel is a bad idea ??


Too much glue does not help to have a better bond actually, and makes a mess.


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Lionel said:


> Too much glue does not help to have a better bond actually, and makes a mess.


If you allow ~ 12 hours or more between coats on the rim and base tape (I use 2 coats on both and then an additional coat on the rim and then mount the tire immediately - also it helps to stretch the tire with the 2 coats of dry glue on it) it won't be messy. To get optimum rolling resistance there must be an adequate bond over ~ 100% of the basetape. It's much better to use too much glue than not enough - in the data list lightly glued tubulars tested much worse than the tubulars glued using ~ 2 tubes per wheel.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I got my set of DA 7850-C50-TU on monday.

I sold my set of Cosmic SL for $800 and go this set for only $1000, new, from a guy qho got them but decided to go with clichers instead.

they are great, look great, are very light










I glued them to a set of Vittoria 28x21", setup with a 12-23 cassette and use them on the TT bike and on my road bike for flat rides when no climbing is involved.










Here is how they look with the tyres on, not yet glued










I glued them yesterday, but rain just arrived and will be raining all day today, so I can't go out to test them.

man, I hate this weather... to much rain this year.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Here are the weights without tubulars, cassette or skewers

Front 636g, Rear 846g

And here how do they compare including tubulars or tires and tubes without cassettes and skewers

Front Wheels
----------------------
DA/Open Pro/Revos, CompDS/Open Pavé 700x24c/Latex Tubes = 1149grs
DA/GP4/Revos, CompDS/Pavé 28x27" = 1049grs
7850-C24-CL/Open Corsa 700x23c/Michelin Latex Tubes = 914 grs
7850-C50-TU/Corsa 28x21" = 874grs
7850-C24-TU/Corsa 28x23" = 763grs



Rear Wheels
----------------------
DA/Open Pro/Revos, CompDS/Open Pavé 700x24c/Latex Tubes = 1292 grs
DA/GP4/Revos, CompDS/Pavé 28x27" = 1187grs
7850-C24-CL/Open Corsa 700x23c/Michelin Latex Tubes = 1122 grs
7850-C24-TU/Corsa 28x23" = 1084grs
7850-C24-TU/Corsa 28x23" = 970grs


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

there is a little window of dry weather even though cold so I'll go for a test ride as soon as the roads dry a little.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

here are pics of the bike with the wheels on.. they look absolutely fecking great !





































there could be also the posibility to use them on a combination like is often seen


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I have a question for you guys running 50mm rims.

Do you remove the valve extender while riding ?

I think I could do that but I fear some dirt could come in and block the valve and then I could have problems later. 

or this is not a problem ?


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## pedalingsquares (Feb 14, 2009)

It looks like the bug has hit you and appears you are having some fun. This cycling stuff is my drug of choice and you have a great many choices..NICE STUFF.
Leave the extenders on:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Thanks for the great pictures


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Thank you

my only problem now is all this rain 

c'mon is mid may and we still have march wheather WTF ?

I think I will have to build me a rainbike beater and I will spend most of my time on it


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## steve_e_f (Sep 8, 2003)

Those C50s look fantastic, and the ability to combine them with the lower profile wheel and STILL match (which is of course so important) is pretty cool.
I love the red spoke nipple thing that Shimano is doing these days. Its subtle but adds a little flair.

I couldn't wait to ride my new wheels, so I took 'em out in the rain. I'm also guilty of riding them on daily rides, even though they are only supposed to be race wheels. sometimes things are too nice to leave in the garage, they must be enjoyed! someday they will wear out or break or whatever, probably sooner than if I baby them, but for the time being I'm just having my fun and not worrying about it.

thanks for the continued posts.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Yes as you said, the red nipples look cool and matches the Vittoria valve stems.

Unfortunately the extenders I have for the C50 are the older Vittoria and are bronze color

I checked at the longer red Vittoria ones, but they cost $44 the pair and I think is a bit much, I think I will ride without them and carry one on my pocket in case I need to pump air.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

No, the valve extender remains on the orignal stem at all times. If you use Vittoria extenders, they require that the valve core be removed and reinstalled in the end of the extension. Also, with the Vittoria extenders, there is no need to use teflon tape to seal the joint between the valve stem and extender.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

a sunny and warm weekend ahead after almost 3 weeks or rain everyday. 

I'll be on my bike a whole lot this weekend 

This season has been awful so far.


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## diegogarcia (Apr 29, 2010)

Really good thread.

I too am thinking about moving to tubs, but worry about it, as does everyone. The thought of a flat 50 miles out troubles me and I really dont want to carry a spare tub. Someone advised me about filling the tub with sealant, but surely that negates the weight saving and could cause rolling issues if the goo does not spread evenly.


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## steve_e_f (Sep 8, 2003)

I don't think the sealant is that heavy. I carry a can of pit-stop in my jersey and it is feather light. you don't have to pre-fill the tire, you can wait until you flat and then add sealant.
I do want to carry an extra tire sometimes, I just don't have one yet.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I repaired a flat tubular with a Vittoria Can once. 

Not a racing tubular but and old one on and oldie steel bike.

One year after is still holding air.

I've read here that fixing a good quality tubular with a can, ruins the tubie... but the poster gave no real reasons about it.

Do anybody can give more info about that ?


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

These wheels are freaking magnificent.

I don't know about those very pushed over here like the Edge, Reynolds or Zipps

But those DA are truly excellent wheels, man what a pleasure to ride and my modest performance has improved, could be new wheels effect though, but my cyclo-computer numbers don't lie.

I had some braking problems with the C24 at the beginning with some screeching and shudder like the Cyclocross Cantis produce.

But I checked the wheels and the front wheel was a bit out of true, I trued them and centered them and now the braking is perfect and quite strong, I would say it is almost on par with normal aluminum rims.

The C24 are simply so light that accelerate them takes little effort, and the the tubulars feel indeed great.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*if you can remove*



Salsa_Lover said:


> I have a question for you guys running 50mm rims.
> 
> Do you remove the valve extender while riding ?
> 
> ...


the valve extender I think yer doing it wrong
You typically remove the Presta system from the attached valve stem. Screw the extender into the valve stem using the threads vacated by the Presta Valve. Screw the Presta Valve into the extender. You can cap if you are worried about dirt


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

hello atpjunkie

Yes, I have been having some problems when trying to pump , I noticed the valve ends keep screwing inside, I guess with the vibration they screw in like this










I can unscrew them using makeup plyers but I don't want to do it evertime I have to pump them.

I have my spare and saw how the new Vittoria valve can be removed like this, the valve cores can't be removed though they are one piece.










However the valve extenders I have are the older Vittoria, not the new ones. 

Those older Vittoria have a different thread and I couln'd put it in the middle nor put valve cores on them.










Maybe I have to force them, but I didn't want to.

I guess the only solution is to buy a set of longer red Vittoria valves.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

atpjunkie said:


> the valve extender I think yer doing it wrong
> You typically remove the Presta system from the attached valve stem. Screw the extender into the valve stem using the threads vacated by the Presta Valve. Screw the Presta Valve into the extender. You can cap if you are worried about dirt


Depends on the age of the tube/valves. All of my valves are non-removeable as in, I hafta have a separate AL piece that screws onto the valve, but don't have the extra 'nipple' at the top. Like a straw.

All I do is unscrew the thing and leave it in my toolkit.

If I can get to the valve, I will screw the top back down. If not, I don't worry about it.

M


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

I think I could put some glue to keep the valve open and leave the extender on.

Do you think there would be some problem with the glue on the valve end ?


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## WheresWaldo (Nov 29, 2005)

Salsa_Lover said:


> hello atpjunkie
> 
> Yes, I have been having some problems when trying to pump , I noticed the valve ends keep screwing inside, I guess with the vibration they screw in like this
> 
> ...


If you just buy a new pair of Tufo/Continental/Vitoria extensions, you can use it instead of buying the overpriced Vittoria valve stems. Just get some 30-40mm extensions and you will be fine.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

$44 for the pair of new style Vittoria valve extensions in 80mm 

I could get a pair of mavic 40mm extensions for some $7


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

Salsa_Lover said:


> $44 for the pair of new style Vittoria valve extensions in 80mm
> 
> I could get a pair of mavic 40mm extensions for some $7


But you could buy 44 mm Tufo style extension and use them under the stock new style Vittoria extensions that came with the tires. This might be a bit tricky if the tires are glued on. Much easier to set this up before gluing the tires on.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

*pre-stretching tubulars ...*

Many of the articles I read about tubular tires, suggest stretching _new_ tires before permanently gluing them. 

Do the hardcore tubular users among you, own a cheap tubie rim for the sole purpose of stretching the tire? Seems it would be a mess and hassle trying to stretch a _new_ tire on a _previously_ glued rim, but what do I know? ;-) 

I am now riding Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX-II clinchers + latex tubes on Campy Shamal alloy wheels as my everyday & race tire, but I'm thinking of "moving up" to a 45/65mm carbon rim wheelset for crits & road races, and trying to decide "Clincher Vs Tubular" for the race wheelset ...


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## AM999 (Jan 22, 2007)

tom_h said:


> Many of the articles I read about tubular tires, suggest stretching _new_ tires before permanently gluing them.
> 
> Do the hardcore tubular users among you, own a cheap tubie rim for the sole purpose of stretching the tire? Seems it would be a mess and hassle trying to stretch a _new_ tire on a _previously_ glued rim, but what do I know? ;-)
> 
> I am now riding Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX-II clinchers + latex tubes on Campy Shamal alloy wheels as my everyday & race tire, but I'm thinking of "moving up" to a 45/65mm carbon rim wheelset for crits & road races, and trying to decide "Clincher Vs Tubular" for the race wheelset ...


I just use an old clincher rim that cracked at a spoke hole - works fine but I'm careful to make sure that I don't get the sidewall under the bead. I also stretch the tubular after the second coat of glue has thoroughly dried on the basetape. Tires (especially those without a latex coating on the basetape) tend to shrink when the glue soaks into the basetape and dries. Stretching after applying glue helps a lot with the install.

Good points to both tubular and clinchers. Fast alternatives either way. Personal preference dictates. I train on clinchers but race on tubulars. One point for me is that the latex tubes in a tubular are very well protected in the cocoon of tubular tire construction. Latex tubes in clincher rims become distorted as they try and flow into all the little nooks and crannied which can lead to failure unexpectedly. I've lost a few latex tubes when the butyl boot for the valve stem sits off the rim surface a bit suspended by the tire beads and the latex trys to grow underneath it. OK on a training ride but not so good in a race.


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## RC28 (May 9, 2002)

tom_h said:


> Do the hardcore tubular users among you, own a cheap tubie rim for the sole purpose of stretching the tire? ...


Yes. I have some here that are used just for that.

You CAN , however, stretch a new tire on a tubular rim that has dried or old glue on it. I've done it a few times if my "stretching" rims are being used and I need to stretch a tire. If the tire does not have a latex coating on the base tape, it should be a very clean operation. If the base tape has a layer of latex on it (like Veloflex and some Vittorias) they will stick somewhat but will be very easy to take off with no glue remaining on the base tape itself. Since there wasn't any glue on the tire to begin with, the glue on the rim won't have anything permanent where it can stick.


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## singchef (Jan 26, 2010)

I would like to go from a Clincher to a Tubular. I am in the middlle of looking for an all around areo wheel maybe 45mm to 50mm dish, no bigger, and am looking at the EDGE 45mm and the Campy Bora One or the Campy Bora Ultra.two.

I am putting the 22;s Conti Competition tires on them for I was told, here in Califormia and those who ride say they are also good tires.

In your opinion which of the above carbon wheels would work and look good on my new EPS All White, with a little black Colnago? I ride only about 150 miles a week with clinchers now and love them, but I want the experience of the "butter" smooth ride of Tubulars...


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## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

singchef said:


> I would like to go from a Clincher to a Tubular. I am in the middlle of looking for an all around areo wheel maybe 45mm to 50mm dish, no bigger, and am looking at the EDGE 45mm and the Campy Bora One or the Campy Bora Ultra.two.
> 
> I am putting the 22;s Conti Competition tires on them for I was told, here in Califormia and those who ride say they are also good tires.
> 
> In your opinion which of the above carbon wheels would work and look good on my new EPS All White, with a little black Colnago? I ride only about 150 miles a week with clinchers now and love them, but I want the experience of the "butter" smooth ride of Tubulars...


If you want the "butter" smooth ride don't get Conti's. Veloflex or Vittoria are far superior on the tub front.


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## singchef (Jan 26, 2010)

thnaks..Any opinion on what above wheel would be best for my style of riding?


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

singchef said:


> .. I ride only about 150 miles a week with clinchers now and love them, but I want the experience of the "butter" smooth ride of Tubulars...


I think you'd get a pretty good approximation of that, by installing Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CXII clinchers with a quality latex tube (eg Michelin).

The Vittoria Open Corsa tubular and clincher version share the same, true 320 TPI (threads per inch) carcass under the tread.

clincher:
http://www.vittoria.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=9750&Itemid=116

tubular:
http://www.vittoria.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=9769&Itemid=116

You can puuchase 1 tire +tube for under US$50 from www.ProBikeKit.com apply the _USA10_ discount code).


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

What Tom_h say is true, the feel on good set of clincher wheels/latex Tubes/Open Corsa is much better than what you can get with standard clincher/butyl/standar tyres.

With tubulars you get, much less weight, no pinch flats and a rounder tyre for better cornering. 

With a wider clincher rim you can get your 23mm rounder too though.

however the feel, and ligtness of a set of good carbon tubulars and high TPI Vittorias is hard to match.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

tom_h said:


> Many of the articles I read about tubular tires, suggest stretching _new_ tires before permanently gluing them.
> 
> Do the hardcore tubular users among you, own a cheap tubie rim for the sole purpose of stretching the tire? Seems it would be a mess and hassle trying to stretch a _new_ tire on a _previously_ glued rim, but what do I know? ;-)
> 
> I am now riding Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX-II clinchers + latex tubes on Campy Shamal alloy wheels as my everyday & race tire, but I'm thinking of "moving up" to a 45/65mm carbon rim wheelset for crits & road races, and trying to decide "Clincher Vs Tubular" for the race wheelset ...


Yup. I found a GP-4 that wasn't glued. Use it to stretch things.

Helps when there's no glue... Not necessary, but it helps.

M


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Update:

I bought the right 30mm Valve Extenders, from PBK https://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A7450


they can be put in under the Vittoria new presta valve



















Now the wheel and its tubular looks and works like it should be, I love how the red Vittoria valve matches the DA red nipples


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Removed an old tubular from a 6 speed bike and found a nice detail

the base tape is a ribbon with Italian flag colors .... Nice !

it maches my Vittoria levers


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