# Lock Ring and Cog came loose while Braking



## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

While taking my first longer ride on my fixed the rear cog spun off along with the lock ring?? I managed to stop and then to get the cog and lock ring on enough to get the additional mile home. 

After getting home I inspected the gear and tighted again as muchas I could. I tightened the lock ring fearing the metal threads I saw may stripped. I didn't over tighten the lock ring but it also didn't tighten totally tight, I feared I would do additioanl stripping of the threads. Keep in mind that this is a lesser quality hub, "Susie" or something.

What are my options?


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

sounds like you sheared the threads off that Suzue hub... time for a new hub/wheel


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

Thanks for the quick response. 

That was my fear. What is a good rear hub option that can hold up to semi strong riding?? I have this rear wheel for a year or so but this the first time I really cranked and braked on it. I admit I did not baby the bike on this ride but I don't think I did anything that should cause the failure.


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## markie (Jan 4, 2005)

I like the surly hubs for price:durability.

If I have more $$$ I like Phil Wood.


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## racerdave (Dec 1, 2007)

might not be the hub. check the lock ring for a crack or two. I cracked a lock ring from over-tightening it and didn't realize it until it backed off on me when I backpedaled once. The ring looked fine, but upon closer inspection, there was a crack through it.

I ordered a DA lockring and it's been solid ever since. No hub needed.


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

I checked the ring very closely and it appears to be fine. I guess I will put the brakes on the bike and run the free wheel side until I get a rim built up.

Thanks for the insights.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*Reminder.*

On any hub, it's important to check and, if needed, re-tighten the lockring after the first ride. The first jump often tightens the cog up a bit, which can loosen the lockring.


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## TurboTurtle (Feb 4, 2004)

cpcritter said:


> While taking my first longer ride on my fixed the rear cog spun off along with the lock ring?? I managed to stop and then to get the cog and lock ring on enough to get the additional mile home.
> 
> After getting home I inspected the gear and tighted again as muchas I could. I tightened the lock ring fearing the metal threads I saw may stripped. I didn't over tighten the lock ring but it also didn't tighten totally tight, I feared I would do additioanl stripping of the threads. Keep in mind that this is a lesser quality hub, "Susie" or something.
> 
> What are my options?


It is a track hub with a reverse threaded lock ring, correct? - TF


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

Yes. Suzue hub flip/flop. Steel lock ring w/Surly cog. I think I may need a little beefier set-up.


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

The plan was to check and retighten after this initial ride. The wheel assembly has not seen much more than the easy family bike trail ride. This was definately a more sprirted ride. I had switched out the cog and tightened as much as possible.


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

It sounds like the cog wasn't tight enough. First leave off the lockring and tighten the cog as much as possible with your chainwhip. Take the bike to a decent incline and ride up without putting any reverse pressure on it. Then put the lockring on as snug as you can get it without banging up your knuckles.

Or try the rotafix method.


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## SSSasky (Apr 8, 2004)

I use the rotafix method plus a bit of locktite, and I've never had a cog come loose. Rotaffix works so well I've never even bought a chainwhip, despite riding fixed and SS exclusively for 10 years.


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

SSSasky said:


> I use the rotafix method plus a bit of locktite, and I've never had a cog come loose. Rotaffix works so well I've never even bought a chainwhip, despite riding fixed and SS exclusively for 10 years.


I know about Locktite but not Rotaffix. The LBS said that I should lube all the threads, something I was wondering about.

I am going to take the wheel assembly back to them to see what they say. I am not expecting them to do much though.


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## cglazowski (Jul 16, 2007)

Rotafix is awesome!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotafix


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Make sure you don't have a Cog with a narrow width Flange.
I have several Cogs that tighten nicely, but the narrow flange allows the Lockring to bottom out without being snug against the Cog. In this situation, I place a ring spacer between the Cog and the Hub. Now when the Lockring it tightened it fits snug against the Cog.

The advice to check Lockring occasionally for tightness is also wise preventive maintenance.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

jmlapoint said:


> Make sure you don't have a Cog with a narrow width Flange.
> I have several Cogs that tighten nicely, but the narrow flange allows the Lockring to bottom out without being snug against the Cog. In this situation, I place a ring spacer between the Cog and the Hub. Now when the Lockring it tightened it fits snug against the Cog.
> 
> The advice to check Lockring occasionally for tightness is also wise preventive maintenance.


That certainly makes sense...Just curious, who made the cogs with the narrow flange? I've never experience that..


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

The cog was Surly but the steel lock ring was the one that came with Suzue hub that the LBS sold to me originally. They admitted to having issues with the lock ring stripping and no longer sell the hub. They didn't offer to assist me in any other way though. I have another bike shop that is taking care of getting my parts and will be doing any work I need done, like building my new rear wheel. I went with Surly hub, cog and lock ring this time (Phil Wood was too much).

One more thing, the previously mentioned shop said to grease the threads but this forum says to locktite them. I think I a getting a little more experienced information from here.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Not sure of brand. No name on them, but I have had to use a spacer ring on a few of them. Don't know where I got the rings from either.
Old 3/32" cogs that I know are thinner than my Phils and King cogs.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

avoid cheapo cogs, like the kind that come with inexpensive wheels that include tires-tubes-lockring-cog... loctite the threads?? no


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

cpcritter said:


> One more thing, the previously mentioned shop said to grease the threads but this forum says to locktite them. I think I a getting a little more experienced information from here.


Putting locktite on cog threads is one of those fun things that people do when using an old 5/6 speed freewheel hub with no lockring threads (not a true track hub).

Since you are getting a sweet Surly hub with opposite threading for the lockring, put some grease or even some anti-seize compound on the threads of both the cog and lockring. When it comes time to change your gearing you'll appreciate not destroying your knuckles trying to get them off.


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## cpcritter (Sep 24, 2008)

asterisk said:


> put some grease or even some anti-seize compound on the threads of both the cog and lockring. When it comes time to change your gearing you'll appreciate not destroying your knuckles trying to get them off.


Easy enough. Thanks.


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