# Schwinn Traveler Project



## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Hi, I am new to the vintage scene, but have become enamored of these elegant, timeless steel works of art I have seen online. I am not inclined to move into the fixie realm, but I am working on a old Schwinn, with the intention of having another bike I can keep at work and ride at lunch, etc.

Thus far, I have won, on Ebay, a 1980-ish Schwinn Traveler that has had some parts replaced in the recent past. Of course, this diminishes its "retro" appeal, but ultimately I want to have a very useable, "bombproof" bike. According to the pictures and what I was able to observe, it has the 1020 high-tensile steel frame, which is the heavy one. While I would prefer the cro-moly, is this material still a reasonably comfortable ride? The previous owner also replaced the crank with a RPM crank. My research tells me that this is the same as an FSA crank. Any info you can offer on this? It also has a new rear derailleur, which the seller described as "index-ready". I was unable to identify it from the picture, but perhaps one of you could based on your experience. Seller also mentioned new tires, but gave no details.

In a separate auction, I won a Schwinn moustache bar, with Shimano brakes and Suntour stem shifters. I was thinking about putting this on a Raleigh mixte I got for my wife, but I am reconsidering, since I want an unusual ride. What are your thoughts?

What other suggestions would you offer? I am anxiously waiting for my items to arrive so I can get started. 

I will post more pictures once I have the bike and handlebars onhand and can truly determine the situation.

FWIW, this is the bike I wanted, but didn't win.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7242001479&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Oh, one other question....what size tires did these things use and how fat could they go? I mean, I ride 700x25 now, would the tires be wider?


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

That will make a great project bike. The tires are probably the equivilent of 28c. I really like the high flange hubs..


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Ok, maybe these pics will download...*

Take a look at these...


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

Here's some photos of mine thus far; converting it into a fixie. I stripped the frame, removed all the tabs, and painted. I still need to find some wide pin striping to go around the 'seam' where the white and green meet. 
Hopefully tomorrow my spokes will arrive (DT Revolutions), so I can lace up my wheels (SUN TA1's to IRO hubs). I ordered new bars, levers, and a stem that should be arriving Monday as well..So hopefully I can take it for a spin by the end of the week.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Gotta luv color contrast on lugged frame*

Can I ask how you painted the frame? Also, was the fork chrome-tipped originally?


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

It was chrome-tipped, but pitted pretty bad. It took a while to get it into a nice paintable surface.

Here's info on the paint:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showpost.php?p=597885&postcount=19

And the addition I had was to do all of your lug outlines after the color wetsand. This will let the paint go on smoother and stick better...Plus you don't want to wetsand the line anyway, as its one thin coat.


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## tube_ee (Aug 25, 2003)

*Don't lose your stems, guys!!*

Older Schwinns, except for the Paramount, used the old American 0.833" stem size. When Schwinn was importing bikes from Panasonic in Japan, there were some nice forged road stems made with .833" quills. They are now almost impossible to find, except with a handlebar on one side and a bike on the other.

QBP, J&B, and Merry Sales only have the beachcruiser style now. Steel, with a very long quill and almost no reach. Not really suitable for road bike use.

How do I know? My 1977 Super Le Tour 12.2 (was fixed, now a 1x6 North Road barred grocery / liquor store / bar bike) came with the original stem. It's a 10 cm, and I'd really prefer a 12, especially with the North Road's significant rearward reach. I've not found one. The weird thing is that the OD of the steerer tube us the same as a regular 1" threaded fork. It's just the ID that's different (21.15 mm vs 22.2.) iBoB list wisdom is that I have 3 choices: A new fork, having the steerer reamed out, or having a new steerer brazed into the fork.

For now, I've decided to live with the short stem... It's not a long-distance bike anyway.

Other than that one issue, these are fantastic bikes. Mine was built with DB 4130 main tubes and 1020 stays and fork. It's no lightweight, but with a long rear end, and a pretty raked-out fork, it's a sweet ride. With 700c wheels and Dia-Compe 610 centerpulls, it'll take a true 32 mm tire, and 28s would work with fenders, easy.

--Shannon
--Shannon


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

*Ya...Tell me about it*

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=61456


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

I hate waiting for my stuff to get delivered!! I get so paranoid....think everything's broken, or I got ripped off....breathe deep....Man, I am so ready for that Schwinn to get here. And the moustache bars, and the Brooks B-17 honey saddle.

Grrrrrr......


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

slowmo1 said:


> I hate waiting for my stuff to get delivered!! I get so paranoid....think everything's broken, or I got ripped off....breathe deep....Man, I am so ready for that Schwinn to get here. And the moustache bars, and the Brooks B-17 honey saddle.
> 
> Grrrrrr......


And now I am waiting for Suntour Bar con bar-end shifters for the moustache bar, and am looking at a leather saddle bag.....somebody stop me! I'm outta control!


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## croswell1 (Feb 19, 2005)

Man, thats a nice looking bike. Just now seen it. The Brooks saddle will be great on it too, btw. If you dont mind my opinion, ditch the mustache bars and stay with drop bars on that cool old sled. Save the mustache bars for your future commuter bike. Just MO.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

I'm still trying to decide exactly what I want to do with it. I want to keep it at work, so I can ride on lunch break, or perhaps run errands after work, and then go home in the car. I guess it will be a "semi-commuter". I have to see how the drop bars fit me, as I like a wider bar. One reason I want to use the Schwinn this way, I will probably ride this more frequently, possibly for shorter rides, than I would my aluminum Schwinn Fastback. The Fastback has narrower tires, and is faster, but will likely be less comfortable. I was toying with the idea of getting an adjustable stem for the Fastback, so that I could move the handlebars up, to a more upright sitting position, but I will run into a problem with my cables. Therefore, I am leaving the Fastback the same, with the exception of the saddle, which I will replace with the Trek saddle from off the Traveler, if I like it. The lycra/gel/plush saddle on my Fastback will go on my wife's Raleigh, and the low-end Brooks on the Raleigh will be placed in my parts bin. I will also probably pull the rack off my Fastback and put it on the Traveler.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Got my Traveler!*

Finally! Everything arrived in seeming good shape. I just unpacked it so I could stuff it in my car, and everything appeared to be ready to be assembled. The component questions I can better answer now. First of all, the rear derailleur is a Shimano Tourney, which appears adequate, but nothing special. The shifters are Shimano, the rear sprockets are Shimano, as are the hubs. The handlebar seems ok, but looks kinda flimsy to me, but that might be due to the vinyl bar wrap. The tires are cheap Kenda 27x1 1/4. The brakes are either Dia-Compe, or made for Schwinn by Dia-Compe. The frame looks straight, and the paint is fair. There are enough scratches in the paint that I will want to look into a paint job. In regards to that, I do not necessarily want to go original, but I would like a complete set of decals if I were to repaint the frame. What are your suggestions?

I think this will turn out quite well. I just wish I knew what I was doing! 

Pics to follow when I get home to my digicam!


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## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

slowmo1 said:


> I think this will turn out quite well. I just wish I knew what I was doing!


Naw, that'd just take the fun out of it!

Now build it up quick, before Stohler notices this thread and rants about how the Traveller is old and cheap!

Have fun,

FBB


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Lotsa Pictures!*

Here are the photos I took this evening. This is how the bike arrived. While it does have quite a few superficial scrapes and scratches, everything mechanical seems in order. The brakes do need adjusting, as I can feel them rubbing. I also want to make sure the wheels are in round. Ok, what I noticed about this bike. First, notice the brake handles. I have never seen a brake release like this. I took a closer look at the label on the brakes, and read "Schwinn Approved". Notice the scrape on the right shoulder of the fork. It's pretty bad, and makes me wonder if someone lost control at speed. The front hub is Shimano. Anyone know which model? The pedals that came with it are metal body MTB platforms that I am going to continue using. Should make good commute pedals. Could not identify the rear hub, but I think it is Shimano, same as the front. The cassette says Shimano (UG- VLA?). Tourney derailleur. Shimano FE front derailleur. The decals clearly illustrate that this bike was ridden. The stem shifters are Shimano, and worked fairly well. The moustache handlebar (which I suspect is NOT a moustache bar) and the Shimano brake levers are what I am considering putting on this bike. The levers say Super SLR, and the gum hoods were terribly hard to clean, but they are better now. These came on the moustache bar and were mounted in a Sakae stem with a Suntour stem shifter that feels really solid and has index shifting on the right side. It clicks 8 times, so I don't know if I can use it. What do y'all suggest? Stick with the Shimano, or go with the Suntour that seems more solid and indexes? Also note the brand, spanking new B-17! That thing is hard, but I got the Proofide with it, so I am set.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

Looks awesome. Love the seat, Im looking to get myself one as well (along with the matching bar wrap). Does it have the copper rails ?
Here's the latest on mine. Bar wrap is temp., as I just needed SOMETHING on there. Hopefully I'll get a temp. saddle and the chain/cog on there today.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

What brand/color barwrap is that, Steve? I like it. Think it would look great on my wife's Raleigh, and the Schwinn for that matter.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*Just an observation*

Slowmo1, the tape is a natural color cork tape, many mfgers, it may also come in a synthetic cork. Honestly i like the synthetic stuff better, it is stronger and easily cleanable. How about cloth?

Both of my old bikes came with 27" rims. So did both of yours, Steve-H i see you have your brake pads dropped all the way down. Just for future reference, Sun rims makes a box style rim that is high polish 27" alu rim, Sun CR18 I believe and can be had at bikepartsusa.com I have been looking into getting a set of specialty type wheels made up, one a single speed flip/flop hub for my chrome single (thats alot of bling) and one using the shimano generator hub so I can mount a generator light on my Viscount tour/commute rig


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Steve, I also just noticed the stem on your bike is not stock, or at least it doesn't resemble mine. What kind/model, and how long is it? I think mine will be almost too short. Of course that is based on riding my other road bike, which is much less upright. Thanks, LG for the tip about the rims. I will have to check into that. What do you think the weight difference would be between them? One thing I observed about my rims, they are the same as the rims on my wife's Raleigh. Steve, what rims are you using? I can't quite make out the brand.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*One catch about the Sun CR18*

Not to bust yer [email protected] or anything but, weight difference? Are you kidding me? Your bike weights how much and you ask about weight difference? Just kidding. I would be fairly certain that the Sun rim being aluminum would be a lighter rim than what you have on the bike and built up with double butted spokes of today it will be a lighter 27" wheel. The CATCH is without looking about too hard, bpusa rim was a 36 hole rim, just have to hope your hub is for a 36 hole rim. Now they also have Weinmann rims that are cheaper but I think they sent me a set of those once upon a time when I was trying to find the 32 hole 27" rims. Junky rims. Laid on a table and welded, no filing of the weld. Work fine until you hit the brake, Kathunk, Kathunk....

One other caveat with weight difference, tires. You are not going to find a 27" lightweight tire, some will be lighter than others, almost all will be a wire bead tire with a heavier casing. I really like the Continental Sport 1000 tires, nice dark gum wall tire, just a good commuter tire. Panaracer also has a 27" and I think Vittoria Zaffiro also has a 27".


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Lone Gunman said:


> Not to bust yer [email protected] or anything but, weight difference? Are you kidding me? Your bike weights how much and you ask about weight difference? Just kidding. I would be fairly certain that the Sun rim being aluminum would be a lighter rim than what you have on the bike and built up with double butted spokes of today it will be a lighter 27" wheel. The CATCH is without looking about too hard, bpusa rim was a 36 hole rim, just have to hope your hub is for a 36 hole rim. Now they also have Weinmann rims that are cheaper but I think they sent me a set of those once upon a time when I was trying to find the 32 hole 27" rims. Junky rims. Laid on a table and welded, no filing of the weld. Work fine until you hit the brake, Kathunk, Kathunk....
> 
> One other caveat with weight difference, tires. You are not going to find a 27" lightweight tire, some will be lighter than others, almost all will be a wire bead tire with a heavier casing. I really like the Continental Sport 1000 tires, nice dark gum wall tire, just a good commuter tire. Panaracer also has a 27" and I think Vittoria Zaffiro also has a 27".


I know, but every little bit helps!  However, I guess a relative newbie question is in order. Are 700c and 27" rims compatible? I was under the impression that there was some difference in the diameter, but that they could be used interchangeably, provided you had long-reach brake arms. I think my hub is 36-hole, but when I looked at bikepartsusa, I saw they had wheelsets also, and the prices weren't bad. And I think the hubs were decent. Like you said, with the weight of the bike, lightweight wheels is probably unnecessary, and my biggest issue will probably be stem height/length.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*A little history*

My Viscount, when it was my main ride, came with 27" steel rims. I had the option of going with the next bike up the line that had 700 alu rims, far more expensive wheels. I went with the steels as it was going to be a campus bike and they would be stolen. Years later i began upgrading the Viscount and went to the LBS. He had a wheelset laying around that came on a Cannondale he sold with a different set of wheels and made me a solid offer and I bought those, 700 wheels. I too had to drop my brake pads all the way down and it made the bike look funny in my eyes, the big gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fork and also in the rear chainstay bridge, look as Steve-H bike for example of what I mean. Now you could fill up that gap with 28mm tires. But again your tire selection starts to get slim. It is a trade-off, and there are other ways around the problem with a device called a drop bolt, it lowers the whole brake caliper by extending and lowering the brake bolt(See Sheldon Brown's site). Also, fairly certain that 27" rims of that era were primarily built with 36 hole rims. My 27" 32h rims of any quality are as rare as "hen's teeth". Yes there is a small difference in size, 700 being smaller, and you can use them as Steve-H has done as long as you have the ability to lower your pads on the calipers. It is just aestetically speaking, 700 will work 27" were original equipment and look "period correct". That is another can of worms to be opened at a later date.


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## tube_ee (Aug 25, 2003)

slowmo1 said:


> I know, but every little bit helps!  However, I guess a relative newbie question is in order. Are 700c and 27" rims compatible? I was under the impression that there was some difference in the diameter, but that they could be used interchangeably, provided you had long-reach brake arms. I think my hub is 36-hole, but when I looked at bikepartsusa, I saw they had wheelsets also, and the prices weren't bad. And I think the hubs were decent. Like you said, with the weight of the bike, lightweight wheels is probably unnecessary, and my biggest issue will probably be stem height/length.


There is an 8 mm difference in bead seat diameter. 700C is 622 (the "c" doesn't stand for anything) and 27" is 630. They are sometimes, but not always, interchangable. In theory, you only 4 mm more reach for 700c, but in practice it seems to be a bit more. Grab a wheel from a 700c bike and stick it in the frame. If the pads can be adjusted to hit the rim, hie thee to thine LBS and order up a set of 36 or 32 hole, double-wall, eyeletted 700c rims and some decent hubs. 14g spokes, brass nips. 3x for 32s, 4x for 36s. Build 'em up, ride 'em.

Switching to 700c not only gives you much more choice in tires, it also quite noticably increases clearance for wider tires and fenders. Not to mention dropping the bottom bracket, often improving the handling. While the new wheels will be sgnificantly lighter, they'll also be much stronger, with better hubs, and compatible with your other bikes. These are all good things.

--Shannon


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Lone Gunman said:


> Yes there is a small difference in size, 700 being smaller, and you can use them as Steve-H has done as long as you have the ability to lower your pads on the calipers. It is just aestetically speaking, 700 will work 27" were original equipment and look "period correct". That is another can of worms to be opened at a later date.


I really am not worried about "period correct" on this bike, as I intend to use it as my utility/fun bike, the one I use to run around town. Thanks for the info.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Making some headway*

While I have quite a ways to go, I liked what I came up with enough I wanted to show y'all. I have installed the moustache bar and brake levers, as well as the Brooks B-17 saddle. The handlebars are temporarily wrapped in the old vinyl tape from the old randonneur drop bar, until I get some new bar wrap. Trying to decide if I should go with black tape, or natural cork, like Steve's. I just really like that tan color!  My wife thinks the color will clash with a red frame, though. Maybe some of that stitched black/white tape I saw online somewhere? I have much more to do, but I need some sleep!


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Shiny parts*

Steve, I am curious as to how you got the chrome parts so shiny. I really want to polish the stem and brakes, but am not sure what to use.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*I have had good luck with*

Turtle wax chrome cleaner on chrome bits, Mother's Billet polish on the alu parts that get gray and dull looking. You might also try a product called Flitz, motorcycle shops will know all about it. Flitz might be an all in one cleaner for the metal. Parts that have surface rust, wire wheel brush on either a drill or shop bench followed up by cleaner product of choice.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

slowmo1 said:


> What brand/color barwrap is that, Steve? I like it. Think it would look great on my wife's Raleigh, and the Schwinn for that matter.


Honestly I don't recall, threw the box out, sorry. It is whatever was the cheapest stuff that nashbar sells  . I just put it on there temp. until my Brooks Honey tape arrives.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

slowmo1 said:


> Steve, I also just noticed the stem on your bike is not stock, or at least it doesn't resemble mine. What kind/model, and how long is it? I think mine will be almost too short. Of course that is based on riding my other road bike, which is much less upright. Thanks, LG for the tip about the rims. I will have to check into that. What do you think the weight difference would be between them? One thing I observed about my rims, they are the same as the rims on my wife's Raleigh. Steve, what rims are you using? I can't quite make out the brand.


Ya, its not the stock stem. BE WARNED !!! As others have stated, some (mine...) schwinns have an oldschool sized steerer, etc., so a 1" stem will be "just" too big. Mine had to be turned abit on a lathe to get to work right. Perhaps not the best way of going about it, but I needed something longer than the stock one. Its 120mm.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

slowmo1 said:


> Steve, I am curious as to how you got the chrome parts so shiny. I really want to polish the stem and brakes, but am not sure what to use.


Lots of work  . They were all nasty and dirty - which saved them from being rusted to s&$^. I used #0000 steel wool and a silicone based polish. Then followed that up with a buffing wheel.
I honestly was surprised on how nice they came out. Says something about the quality of chrome jobs on these bikes.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

OK...Now that I got all of the replies out of the way....
As far as the brakes go, they JUST reach. I had to machine out the bottom of the brake arms to get extra length. Again, not optimal, but it works for the moment. I do not want a drop bolt, nor do I want side pulls...I like the old look of the center pulls.
I hear rivendel may have some longer arm center pulls, I'll have to give them a call. 
Finally got it all together and took it for a spin (thanks to ChuckUni). It rides sweet. I need to bring the rear wheel up to tension abit more, as it feels like it loosened up slightly (first attempt at wheel building...). Besides that, I put maybe 20mi on it today, and I love it.
I'll have some pics up tomorrow if the weather cooperates.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Today was a good day....*

Tweaked the bike my parents brought my oldest daughter this weekend from her great-grandmother. Nothing special, a Next pink bike that says "Glamour Girl", but my daughter is thrilled. Unfortunately, with the seat all the way down, she can't quite reach the floor flatfooted. So I decided we needed to do a Goodwill/LBS run and see what turned up. Our first stop netted us a Huffy Sea Star with 9" rims (rather than the 12" on the other bike), and it was pristine. Somebody's little girl didn't even get the seat dirty. So I will start her on that, move her to the Next bike when she has slightly longer legs, and her sister can have the Huffy!

Oh and when I checked the mail at work this AM, I found my saddlebag waiting. See the pics! Then I picked out some bar tape for my wife's Raleigh and the Schwinn. Got that on my bike just a few minutes ago. I put some of the old red and black that came off the bar under the wrap where my hands will be.

I also got a bottle cage w/bottle for it. $7.99/cage....$8.99/cage....$5.99/cage and bottle...duh, which do I choose....Walmart's Schwinn Bottle/Cage combo wins! (Please don't flame me! 

I also got to see some sweet bikes today....but that will be another post, cause I need some sleep!!

PS. Oh, and I also won a light on Ebay this morning! A Nite Hawk Nomad, which isn't really fancy, but I hope it will do the job!


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Does anyone have any experience with seatposts that have some degree of setback? I have my Brooks shoved all the way to the back and I still find myself wanting to sit way back on it. I have managed to locate and purchase a 90mm Schwinn forged stem, but I still think I need some more space. A setback stem should do the trick.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Changed my mind!*

After some thought, I decided to make some revisions to my Traveler, namely going back to the randonneur drop bar. I also picked up some Tektro brake levers and a longer stem. After mounting the bar and levers, running new cables, swapping the Shimano friction shifter for a Suntour shifter with index shifting on the back, I wrapped the bar and mounted the seat bag on the handlebar. I think I like this better. Now, I shouldn't need a setback seatpost. In the works is a quick-clamp Blackburn rack with bag, and the Nomad light, neither of which have arrived yet. I also have some Suntour barcon shifters coming that I may decide not to use, if I like the stem shifter. Might put them back on Ebay.


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

Stem and bars look great. Those levers rock, $12/set eh ?

Keep it up.


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## ZenNMotion (May 28, 2004)

tube_ee said:


> Older Schwinns, except for the Paramount, used the old American 0.833" stem size. When Schwinn was importing bikes from Panasonic in Japan, there were some nice forged road stems made with .833" quills. They are now almost impossible to find, except with a handlebar on one side and a bike on the other.
> 
> QBP, J&B, and Merry Sales only have the beachcruiser style now. Steel, with a very long quill and almost no reach. Not really suitable for road bike use.
> 
> ...


I had the same issue with a dumpster traveler, no stem. I just took a standard stem and put it in a vice, wrapped some emory cloth around it and just sanded it down, starting with coarse and working down to fine, then even polished it. Looks fine, works fine. Commute every day for 4 years like that, no problem. Takes patience though.


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

Update:
I decided after all that trouble to go back to the original stem! When I switched back to the drop bars, it moved my hands out quite a bit farther. Not only that, but I was a little unsure of the stem fit. There was some play that concerned me. I shimmed the stem with a root beer can, but finally decided that I wasn't willing to trust it. Not sure if Schwinn has any other smaller stem sizes, but the longer stem isn't the same diameter as the original. It's very close, though. I also had trouble getting the stem tight, and really didn't want to wring the stem bolt off, so I swapped. Oh, well, live and learn. Thanks, again, SteveH, for the help. I also got the Blackburn rack and the Nashbar trunk bag, and a Nite Hawk Nomad light. My wife has been asked to find a way to make the trunk bag a "quick-connect", using 1" nylon webbing and click-buckles. I need to carry the wheels to the LBS to get them trued, and I should be set. Oh, and I plan to take the U-lock off the seat tube....looks way tacky! I'll just keep it in the bag.

Of course, now that I have played with fixing up the bike and spending all this money, my wife is threatening me if I don't ride it A LOT! I may try the commuting thing, or at least ride on lunch break.


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## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

slowmo1 said:


> Of course, now that I have played with fixing up the bike and spending all this money, my wife is threatening me if I don't ride it A LOT! I may try the commuting thing, or at least ride on lunch break.


No, no, NO! You don't fix up bicycles so you can ride them. You fix them up so you can POST NEW PHOTOS of the final product.



Anxiously yours,

FBB


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

fbagatelleblack said:


> No, no, NO! You don't fix up bicycles so you can ride them. You fix them up so you can POST NEW PHOTOS of the final product.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oops, my bad, I was under the impression that I'm supposed to RIDE these things! Right....photos of the finished product....how about I post some of those....then in the Commuting forum, a photo log of some of the places I ride....with bike pics, of course.


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## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

slowmo1 said:


> Oops, my bad, I was under the impression that I'm supposed to RIDE these things! Right....photos of the finished product....how about I post some of those....then in the Commuting forum, a photo log of some of the places I ride....with bike pics, of course.


Yeah! Yeah! I suppose we'll allow you to ride it. How else could you post photo logs of your travels.

- FBB


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## slowmo1 (May 2, 2006)

*Final Results--for now!*

Here are some pictures of the final product. These are without the Nomad light system and the Nashbar bag. My wife and I are still brainstorming about a quick-attach system for the bag. I figure I will be riding this bike without the bag and light fairly often, so this is an accurate representation. I did tip the bars up, as I wanted something along the line of cowhorn. I really like these brake levers, especially the barrel safety that allows one to easily adjust the brakes, then reset the lever.

One of my next projects will be fenders. Metal or plastic? Painted or chrome? I kinda like the ones from Soma. What color would you choose? Go to this link: http://www.somafab.com/eurotripfenders.html


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## Steve-H (Apr 12, 2006)

Looks great !
I am thinking of fenders too. For the price, the SKS ones are nice.


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## fbagatelleblack (Mar 31, 2005)

slowmo1 said:


> Here are some pictures of the final product. These are without the Nomad light system and the Nashbar bag. My wife and I are still brainstorming about a quick-attach system for the bag. I figure I will be riding this bike without the bag and light fairly often, so this is an accurate representation. I did tip the bars up, as I wanted something along the line of cowhorn. I really like these brake levers, especially the barrel safety that allows one to easily adjust the brakes, then reset the lever.
> 
> One of my next projects will be fenders. Metal or plastic? Painted or chrome? I kinda like the ones from Soma. What color would you choose? Go to this link: http://www.somafab.com/eurotripfenders.html


Very nice! Thanks for the pictures.

Check out the Planet Bike fenders. I've heard good things.

- FBB


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