# 2012 Specialized Roubaix Apex - help to reduce weight please



## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

Hello everyone!

I started to cycle in Setember 2011 and after 6 months with a 2nd hand B'Twin aluminium road bicycle with Shimano Sora from 2008, I decide to buy something better.

My choice was the Specialized Roubaix Apex Compact (size 52) because I like the idea of the extra confort. I'm 30 years old, 1,72m and 80 Kg and not getting any younger...

The stock configuration is:

FRAME Specialized FACT 8r carbon, FACT IS construction, compact race design w/ Zertz inserts, 1-1/8" to 1-3/8" head tube, threaded BB
FORK Specialized FACT carbon, full monocoque, Zertz inserts
HEADSET 1-1/8" upper and 1-3/8" lower Cr-Mo cartridge bearings, w/ 20mm cone spacer and 20mm of spacers
STEM Specialized EliteSet, 3D forged alloy, 12-degree, 4-position adjustable, 4-bolt, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBARS Specialized Comp, alloy, shallow bend
TAPE Specialized Roubaix wrap w/ 2.5 gel pads
FRONT BRAKE	SRAM Apex
REAR BRAKE SRAM Apex
FRONT DERAIL	SRAM Apex
REAR DERAILL	SRAM Apex, mid cage
SHIFT LEVERS	SRAM Apex DoubleTap, 10-speed
CASSETTE SRAM Apex, 10-speed, 11-32t
CHAIN KMC X10 CP
CRANKSET SRAM S150
CHAINRINGS	50/34
BB SRAM Power Spline BB
FRONT WHEEL	DT Axis 2.0
REAR WHEEL	DT Axis 2.0
FRONT TIRE Specialized Espoir Sport w/ double BlackBelt, 60 TPI, wire bead, 700x23c
REAR TIRE Specialized Espoir Sport w/ double BlackBelt, 60 TPI, wire bead, 700x23c
INNER TUBES	Lightweight, presta
SADDLE Body Geometry Toupé Plus Sport
SEATPOST New Specialized Sport, alloy, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER	Forged alloy, 32.6mm

And I added the following:

PEDALS Keo Look Easy (240g)
GPS Garmin Edge 200 (60g)
BOTTLE+CAGE Specialized Bottle (77g) and alloy cage (65g)

Current total Weight: 9.150g (9,15 Kg; 20,17 pounds)

I want to reduce weight because I find it almost as heavy has my previous bike.
My plans are first to replace wheels (maybe the Mavic Ksyrium Elite - 1550g) and tires (Michelin PRO 3/4 or Continental 4000S) and then the crankset and button bracket (need help to choose one).

After that I'm clueless but I'm sure you can give me some great tips!

Thank you very much!


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## new2rd (Aug 8, 2010)

Didn't u post this somewhere else. Best u can hope for is 16-17 lbs. Keep in mind that it won't make much of a difference


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## Optimus (Jun 18, 2010)

I know you don't want to hear this, but it may be a better idea to buy a lighter bike. Upgrades will cost you more in the end, thank buying a lighter bike all together. You may achieve 17lbs, but that's a lot of upgrading.


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## new2rd (Aug 8, 2010)

I've done a bit of upgrading and although I'm far from being a "weight weenie" I usually pay attention to the weight. I basically have the same bike, upgraded the wheels to Mavic K10's (basically 1450g Ksyriums) w/ tubeless tires. I did this to reduce rotational weight and get a better ride for the crappy roads we have. I noticed a little bit of performance, but it was marginal. All other upgrades (crankset, cassette, chain, seat, stem, and handlebars) did nothing to make me faster. My Roubaix is now at 17.5lbs maybe just a little less. Given that if I continue to upgrade the lowest I'll get it is high 16's, that's keeping the same wheels. Going with the lightest wheels available (around 950g) I could shave off another pound. That's a heck of a lot of money for a 15-16 lb bike. If you want to upgrade do it for comfort, don't get too caught up in weight.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

you can shave a few grams with a carbon fiber seat post, handlebars, lighter pedals, upgraded cranks, etc... or maybe you should of bought a lighter bike which would cost less than upgrading a brand new bike


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## 2Slo4U (Feb 12, 2005)

After the wheels, I would look at the cranks. My wife has the Ruby Apex and swapping out the cranks to Rivals dropped about a half pound. I can't verify this but that is what my lbs told me.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I'll answer this way. I have one bike that weighs 16.4 lbs. and another that weighs 18.5 lbs. My performance on both is essentially the same, but when I lose a few lbs., my performance improves on both.

My suggestion is to save your money and incorporate some lifestyle changes (weight loss) in conjunction with a regimented training routine. 

In other words, improve the motor.


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## carlislegeorge (Mar 28, 2004)

...enough with the practical advice already, the economy needs us to spend spend spend...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

carlislegeorge said:


> ...enough with the practical advice already, the economy needs us to spend spend spend...


No offense to the OP, but if you read his stats I think you'll see that my advice goes beyond 'practical'. As always, YMMV.


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks for all the inputs!

I'll start with the wheels and tires in a few months and should be it for 2012, this is a long term project


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## carlislegeorge (Mar 28, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> No offense to the OP, but if you read his stats I think you'll see that my advice goes beyond 'practical'. As always, YMMV.


you're definitely on track (as always)...and I got, it but the OP may not have...


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

I know I need to loose weight myself but I'm no athlete and I have a full time job that forces me sitting on a chair or on a car all day long.

I only cycle on weekends to have some fun


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> I'll answer this way. I have one bike that weighs 16.4 lbs. and another that weighs 18.5 lbs. My performance on both is essentially the same, but when I lose a few lbs., my performance improves on both.
> 
> My suggestion is to save your money and incorporate some lifestyle changes (weight loss) in conjunction with a regimented training routine.
> 
> In other words, improve the motor.


+1 completely agree. The weight weenie thing for an average amateur biker is...fill in the blank..lol.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Antonio Araujo said:


> I know I need to loose weight myself but I'm no athlete and I have a full time job that forces me sitting on a chair or on a car all day long.
> 
> *I only cycle on weekends to have some fun*


Well, that's a start! :thumbsup:


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## silverbullet84 (Oct 23, 2011)

Antonio Araujo said:


> I know I need to loose weight myself but I'm no athlete and I have a full time job that forces me sitting on a chair or on a car all day long.
> 
> I only cycle on weekends to have some fun


I own a private personal training studio. All you need is 15 minutes a day to get started in busting out some workouts. But we all know it is about the foods you eat. There is no workout program in the world, including cycling, that can out-exercise a bad diet.


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## Scott in MD (Jun 24, 2008)

That's a great bike. Don't change anything. Mid-cage rear deerailleur and 11-32 cassette is perfect for you. That bike would have won the TdF ten years ago.

The best bang for your buck is

1 - Buy an indoor trainer, like a Cycleops Fluid II. Spin every morning for 20-30 mins. This will cost you $350 and magically drop 3-5kg from your ride (you and your bike).
2 - When you get to 2000 miles, get some nice wheels ... this cost you $600 and will drop 1/2 kg. (Put the trainer skewer through your old rear wheel and use the old wheel on your trainer).
3 - When you get to 5000 miles, change out the Apex crank and rear derailleur and 11-32 cassette for a Red carbon crank compact 50/34 and a Red derailleur and a Red (1090) 11-28 cassette. This will run you a grand and drop another 1/2 kg. Welcome to the weight/price curve.
4 - WHen you get to 10,000 miles, get a ROubaix S-Works.This will drop another 1 kg and and cost you 8 large, which you will swear is the best $$ you ever spent. 
5 - Enjoy the ride.


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

Scott in MD said:


> That's a great bike. Don't change anything. Mid-cage rear deerailleur and 11-32 cassette is perfect for you. That bike would have won the TdF ten years ago.
> 
> The best bang for your buck is
> 
> ...


Thank you for your answer, I loved it!
It's a good plan for the next 2 years except 4. that probably will never happen...

When I change the wheels I may change the tires too because they're also heavy...

Just arrived from a 100 kms ride with 1011m of total elevation, both my new personal records!


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## SkiRacer55 (Apr 29, 2005)

*The best quick change you can make...*

...is to change tires. The Specialized Pro tires are around 330 grams, which is a lot. I switched to Conti GP4000S, which are around 210 grams, and the difference was huge, especially because it lightens the rotating weight of the wheels...


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## Stumpy2011 (Aug 1, 2011)

IMO, Unless you're racing and trying to shave a few seconds at the finish line, it's not worth spending money on getting a road bike 1-2 lbs lighter.
I believe that the ratio is $1000 per 1-lb reduction...
A good time for a lighter/better upgrade may be when a component breaks and you need to buy a new one anyway.
Major candidates will be the rotating parts like wheels, tires and crank.

I have the 2012 Roubaix Expert 54 and I love it. I was thinking about upgrading the stock wheels, but most likely I won't, till they break.

I also have an Alum. 32 lb Full-Suspension mountain bike.
A few months ago I got a Carbon Hard-tail which is approx 10 lbs lighter- that's a major difference. 
The HT and weight difference makes it climbs like a goat...


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## willieboy (Nov 27, 2010)

Below is something i wrote some time ago concerning bike weight. 

"I totally got obsessed with my bikes weight shortly after I started riding. Taking off two pounds with a wheel set, another pound and a half with the group set, a few ounces with the pedals, bars etc. After spending way too much money I probably have the most over built Giant Defy Advanced in the world. Just less than fifteen pounds dry, sixteen pounds two ounces with pedals, cages and computer, just less than twenty pounds with all my gear on it and ready to ride with two bottles. Has it made me any faster? My average speed gain over the last year and 4000+ miles is .8 MPH. And most of the overall improvement has come from training IMO. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done if different. Hard for me to say it but I just had too."

Now it's been quite a while since I wrote this and while I like my bike very much I would attribute 90% of my gains over the last year to diet and training. I'm not trying to discourage you from upgrades because each one seemed to give me some motivation. It was like I must get better because I spent the money on this or that. What I realize now is, diet and training are the most important areas for me. Will I upgrade again? No doubt. Will it make me better? Probably not. 

Good luck with whatever you choose to do and enjoy the process. It's fun to get new parts. Enjoy the road my friend and keep rolling


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## carrock (Aug 10, 2009)

Scott in MD said:


> That's a great bike.That bike would have won the TdF ten years ago.
> 
> /QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## Stumpjumper FSR (Aug 6, 2006)

carrock said:


> Scott in MD said:
> 
> 
> > That's a great bike.That bike would have won the TdF ten years ago.
> ...


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## carrock (Aug 10, 2009)

*roubaix*



Stumpjumper FSR said:


> carrock said:
> 
> 
> > The 2011 Pro weighs in at 15Lbs 15 OZ and you think thats only respectably light, but that's all ???
> ...


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## purdyd (Jun 18, 2010)

Antonio Araujo said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I started to cycle in Setember 2011 and after 6 months with a 2nd hand B'Twin aluminium road bicycle with Shimano Sora from 2008, I decide to buy something better.
> 
> ...


30 and you are over the hill???

if i were going to update anything, it would be the wheels, you can do better and lighter

and that crankset set has to go, the power spline is a nightmare to work on

the Rival or Force GXP crankset will save you nearly a pound


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## Suspect4119 (Jun 3, 2010)

Swapper out crank on my 11' Roubaix Elite Apex...

Installed 12' Force Crank and Force GXP BB and saved .6 lbs for what it is worth. I did the swap after helping a friend change his on his Felt, and feeling how rough the BB was. New set up is smoother for sure, looks nice, and will be easier to service... bike feels the same, albeit a bit stiffer in the crank area 

FYI... .55 lbs of the weight was in the BB and only .05 lbs in the crank!

UPDATE:

Finally got out yesterday for a nice 35 mile loop( MTB has been great so the road bike has been neglected) 

Besides feeling smoother due too better BB, the crank is also far stiffer overall, especially when putting in a hard effort. I am sure the Carbon helps a little, but mostly I think it comes from the different crank design adding the stiffness.( getting rid of the powerspline set up)

Very nice upgrade and couldn;t be happier I did it.


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## Chris-X (Aug 4, 2011)

*We do?*



silverbullet84 said:


> I own a private personal training studio. All you need is 15 minutes a day to get started in busting out some workouts. But we all know it is about the foods you eat. There is no workout program in the world, including cycling, that can out-exercise a bad diet.


While a good diet is better than a bad one, people do in fact out exercise bad diets. Also what constitutes a good diet isn't all that complicated.


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## MikeMiranda (Nov 2, 2011)

FRAME 2011 Roubaix SL2
HANDLEBARS Specialized Carbon Shallow Bend
TAPE Sram Cork Tape
FRONT BRAKE	SRAM 2012 Red
REAR BRAKE SRAM 2012 Red
FRONT DERAIL	SRAM 2012 Red
REAR DERAILL	SRAM 2011 Red
SHIFT LEVERS	SRAM 2011 Red
CASSETTE Shimano Ultegra 11-28
CHAIN KMC Xl10ti
CRANKSET Sram 2011 Red
CHAINRINGS	50/34
BB Hawk Racing Gxp BB
FRONT WHEEL	FarSports 50mm Basalt Carbon Clinchers
REAR WHEEL	FarSports 50mm Basalt Carbon Clinchers
FRONT TIRE Continental 4000 Gp
REAR TIRE Continental 4000 Gp
INNER TUBES Kenda 60mm presta 
SADDLE Selle Italia
SEATPOST Specialized S works Zertz 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER	Forged alloy, 32.6mm
Water cages Secialized Carbon cages
Stem fsa osc-99


*I'm guess with out shaving off material I guess the only other places I could lose some weight is by changing out the seat & maybe move to some tubulars*


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## dgrubb3 (Aug 28, 2011)

*Tires are a worthy upgrade*



SkiRacer55 said:


> ...is to change tires. The Specialized Pro tires are around 330 grams, which is a lot. I switched to Conti GP4000S, which are around 210 grams, and the difference was huge, especially because it lightens the rotating weight of the wheels...


I just replaced the stock tires on my 2012 Roubaix Comp with Michelin Pro3's. I am amazed at the difference they make. On my 30 mile loop, I averaged 10-15 seconds per mile faster at the same avg heart rate. In addition to being faster, they also have a smoother ride than the stock tires despite being 23mm vs 25mm wide. Handling is also crisper.


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## Andy Pancroft (Jul 15, 2011)

I didn't read the entire post but, looking at some replies, I have to first say, My 61 cm S Works Roubaix comes in at 15.8 lbs. But, if you're not racing - and even if you are - not sure why some put so much into the weight of their ride (spend another $2k to lose .5 lb...really!!??). How about skipping the burger - this would also fit into the idea of improving your overall health. And, fact is, I have to laugh at all the Freds on the board who post their sub 14 lb bikes! 14.99 lbs is as low as you can go to race the bike so, who cares if your bike weigh in at under 13 lbs!!!???? LOL Find what fits you and your budget and call it good!!!

I mean, are these people going to tell you you're going to be way slower on a bike that weigh a pound more than theirs??? I just took a ride up a ride in Santa Fe (14.6 miles and 3770 ft of elevation) on my big, heavy Roubaix and came in two minutes behind the local pro rider!!! Again, find YOUR bike and love it!!!

Bike Ride Profile | Jul 6, 2012 near Santa Fe | Times and Records | Strava


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

Update after 6 months:
I couldn't wait anymore without upgrading 

Fulcrum Racing 3 Wheels (2012)
Planet X Titanium Quick Releases
Continental GP4000S Tires
SRAM Rival OCT 50-34 w/ GXP Crankset (2012)
Shimano Ultegra 11-28 Cassete
Specialized Pavé Seatpost (old model)
Chinese Ebay Carbon Watercages (20g each)

New weight 7.8 Kg

New pictures












































































































(Yes, I'm a Sunday rider)


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## CycleNKY (May 25, 2012)

I just bought the same bike, how do the wheels and tires compare to stock??? How does the entire bike now compare too stock??

Thanks


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

I will test it for the first time with the new setup tomorrow morning in a 70 kms event with a big climb so I'll write the feedback about it later


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## ianho (May 20, 2011)

Change that anchor of a crank. It's monstrously heavy at about 980gm. Change that n some nice wheels n you'll easily drop 1kg from the bike which will take u down to 8.15kg. A nice set of lightweight tires good enough for daily use like the Continental GP4000S n lightweight 50gm tubes n there's about 300gm savings again. You'll be about 7.8kg which is a very nice weight.


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## Antonio Araujo (Feb 13, 2012)

Ok, my first impressions are great! The bike feels much lighter and very fast.

I love the silent and precise Ultegra cassete compared to the noisy SRAM PG-1050.

Also these tires are much softer than stock, you can notice the extra grip at high speeds.


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## Enoch562 (May 13, 2010)

I got my 56 cm SL2 down to about 16.5 as pictured.


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## Andy Pancroft (Jul 15, 2011)

Avoid this!!!!


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## PKS123 (Aug 3, 2012)

*Question*

I just bought a unused 2011 Tarmac Elite Apex, stock everything (SRAM components) for $1599. Do you think I got a good deal? Also I can't find the weight anywhere online... does anyone know the weight? Thanks...


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## carrock (Aug 10, 2009)

Probably around 20-21 pounds


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## MikeMiranda (Nov 2, 2011)

PKS123 said:


> I just bought a unused 2011 Tarmac Elite Apex, stock everything (SRAM components) for $1599. Do you think I got a good deal? Also I can't find the weight anywhere online... does anyone know the weight? Thanks...


I got mine for that price last year


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