# rear rack issues



## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

I'm having trouble with the rear rack I installed on my DeBernardi for commuting, and I'm trying to determine if there is a fix or whether I just need to buy a different type of rack. My bike has a racing frame with no eyelets, so I installed using P clamps. (See photo) The problem is that the bars attaching the rack to seat stays interfere with my rear brake, shifting it to the side so the pads rub the rim. Even with the brake release opened, the rear wheel won't turn freely. I need to find a new way to attach the top of the rack to seat stays to continue using it.

Another option would be to buy a new rack. Unfortunately most seem to attach to frames the same way if you bike doesn't have eyelets. However, the Nitto racks sold by Rivendell seem to have a different method of attachment compared to most, using narrower aluminum bars that look like they might clear the rear brake. I've attached photos of Nitto racks R14 and R15, which look like they might work. They are similar except the R15 has side supports for panniers. Both cost about $90, which is a lot more expensive than the cheapo Performance rack I have now, but reasonable compared to other high quality racks. Has anyone used the Nitto racks and know whether they will clear sidepull brakes?


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

*another view*

Here's another photo showing my bike with rack and rear pack. If I get another rack, I want a silver one so it matches the rest of my bike. Most racks seem to be black for some reason.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

tarwheel2 said:


> The problem is that the bars attaching the rack to seat stays interfere with my rear brake, shifting it to the side so the pads rub the rim. Even with the brake release opened, the rear wheel won't turn freely. I need to find a new way to attach the top of the rack to seat stays to continue using it.


Look for a rack like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-USA-Mad...ryZ56198QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have the same thing, only in silver, and the mount to my brake bolt works very well...I would have preferred the other type of mount, but my frame lacks seatstay mounts (though it has sufficient eyelets at the dropouts). 

Racks like this come up on eBay from time to time (I think I paid $12 plus shipping)...alternatively, you could fashion a crosspiece for a standard rack to alloy connecting to the brake bolt...

Visit your LBS and show them the problem...they may even have the right kind of rack in stock.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

I fiddled with my brakes some more and was able to temporarily resolve the issue. The problem is that the bar attaching the rack to the frame presses against the rear brake cable, forcing it outward and causing the brake pads to rub on the rims. By loosening the brake calipers where they attach to the frame, pushing them to one side and retightening, I was able to stop the rubbing, but I'm not convinced it will hold.

That Nitto rack sure looks nice tho ....


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## The Walrus (Apr 2, 2000)

If you took the two "struts" connecting the rack to the frame and turned them upside down, and moved the P-clips to a lower (and wider) spot on the stays, would that clear the brake? It's a little hard to judge from the photos.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Nope, that won't work. I had to turn the two "struts" the way the are to make them fit. The struts won't slide any farther into the rack, so to make them fit I had to flip them up the way they are. Also, the struts are about 5/8-inch wide, and that is what is causing the problem, as they interfere with the brake cable.


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## StageHand (Dec 27, 2002)

How much is it pushing the cable? If it's less than 1/4", you can probably trim around the brake cable. Alternatively, what's keeping the struts from sliding into the frame? Their length? You can cut them down (beyond the bolts that hold them in the rack) with a pair of heavy duty snips or a dremel or a hacksaw or even by hand in a bench vise. I'm not sure why that would be helpful, though. Or you can pull the struts out a little farther and bend them upward as close to the rack as possible and attach them higher on the stays. (It looks like you've got another 1/2" to play with, but if not, then that won't work) Enjoy your frankenracking.


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## transplant (Jan 7, 2005)

Bend your supports so they don't hit your brake. You could also cut off the excess length so they will slide further.


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## PomPilot (May 17, 2006)

I think I'm catching the drift of transplant and The Walrus: flip the sliding straps over so that the 'ears' that attach to the P-clips are pointing down. Then move the P-clips to a point on th seat stays below where they would interfer with the brake cable. And don't be afraid to bend the straps downwards so that the shelf of the rack is more level.

Another trick you might try is to turn the P-clips so that the mounting bolts are in front of the seat struts, and extend the mounting straps if needed to reach. The whole idea is to move things to impact your brake and cable as little as possible.


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

You could try a seatpost clamp model. I don't know how much weight you carry, but they're generally good for about 20 lbs. I don't think I've ever seen one in chrome, but then I've never looked. Topeak makes a nice integrated rack/trunk system. The trunk snaps on or off in about two seconds. I've got one on my mountain bike, but it doesn't work when the panniers are in place. So I use the trunk for short hops, the panniers for epics. And if you're really worried about aesthetics, it does have a quick release so you'd only have to have the 'ugly' black rack when you actually needed it.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

I probably need to post another photo showing the top view, so the problem is more evident. The sliding bars that mount the rack to the frame are pushed as far as they will go. I probably could cut them shorter, but I don't think that would resolve the issue, which is that the straps are too wide and can't be moved inward. The straps are flat steel, about 5/8-inch wide, and not at all flexible from left to right. If I had a steel vise, I might be able to rebend the left strap so it doesn't interfere with the cable, but flipping the strap over won't help at all because it would still hit the cable.

Still wondering about the Nitto racks. Doesn't anyone own one that they could measure for me to see if they would fit?


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

don'y they make rack supports that attach to the seatpost? heck, you can prob make something to work with what you've already got


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

I've got a seatpost rack, but removed it. In addition to weighing a lot more, the load sits a lot higher affecting your center of gravity. It's OK for what it is, but the rack that attaches to stays is much better.


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## Mr Wood (Feb 23, 2006)

Can you run the brake cable between the mounts instead of around them? It's hard to see from the pic.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

*Maybe this photo will help ...*

This is a Rivendell bike rack specifically designed to avoid the problem I'm having. Notice how the rack supports curve inward around the brake so they don't interfere with the caliper or cables. On my rack, the supports are flatter, wider and totally non-flexible. My supports attach my frame higher on the seat stays and push into the brake cable, forcing it outward. The cables cannot be positioned to run inside the supports, as it would just apply pressure from the opposite side.

Obviously I need to post a photo of my rack from a different angle to the problem is more obvious.


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## The Walrus (Apr 2, 2000)

That's pretty much what I meant--there's no reason to be afraid of "massaging" those struts a wee bit to work around obstacles. Those aren't the load-bearing components, so a little tweaking won't compromise strength.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

get creative, man... make some new supports, jigger something together... the seat post and brake hole are good candidates for an alternative mount. or just get some new supports that bend


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## Ab24029 (Feb 20, 2006)

Judging by the photo you could raise the seat stays clamps and mount the rack a couple of inches higher. The upper mounting hardware that attaches to the seat stays would be at an angle. It should give you enough clearance for the brake lever not to touch the upper mounting hardware on the rack.


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## Mr Wood (Feb 23, 2006)

You could always invert the brake. . . mount the brake on the inside of the rear triangle. I had some friends that did it just to be different and to see who noticed. They didn't seem to have any real issues with it, YMMV.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*take it off?*

Try just removing the left horizontal strut. Seems like all the vertical load goes down, anyway, and the horizontal struts just stabilize it. I'd bet it's not even necessary. Give it a shot. Other than bending it all around, that's what I'd do.


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## transplant (Jan 7, 2005)

*Try one of these ways*

Sorry I have very poor computer graphic skills. 

One of these ways should be able to make your rack fit.


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## smellybike (Sep 14, 2005)

*easy peasy*

simple solution only use one bolt for each strap on the rack , then run each strap to the opposite stay forming an x. this gets strap away from brake. if strap is running out past rack fold it back under the rack. if it covers second bolt hole after folding drill and bolt


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Well, I solved the problem the coward's way. I'm simply going to get rid of the rack for now. I ordered a Carradice Barley seat bag, which has about the same storage space as my trunk bag, but doesn't need a rack. I already had a Brooks B17 saddle, and the Barley will latch to the back of it. It's also less expensive than buying a Nitto rack.


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## transplant (Jan 7, 2005)

How much for your old rack?  

Seriously though, looks like you would have the same problem with a Nitto rack.


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## Spinfinity (Feb 3, 2004)

*Had a similar problem.*

I turned the brake around and mounted it front of the brake bridge.


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## cjohnson (Sep 24, 2005)

try putting a few flat washers on the bolt attaching the bracket to your seat stays. this would "push" the attachment point and bracket a bit to the side of the brake cable.


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