# Shimano WH-R500 vs. Fulcrum Racing 3



## g0ldh0rn (Apr 9, 2008)

<a href="https://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-R500.-type-.html"><img src="https://lh5.ggpht.com/Ruben.VanMelckebeke/SAzUeak7DBI/AAAAAAAAARs/SkYV3mJcb20/s400/shim_r500_whlset.jpg" /></a> _versus _ <a href="https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/jspfulcrum/productsdetail.jsp?productid=4&varid=14&crankset=false&lang=en&world=road"><img src="https://lh6.ggpht.com/Ruben.VanMelckebeke/SAzUeqk7DCI/AAAAAAAAAR0/NmhcfhkpQVc/s400/whfulr3-m.jpg" /></a>

Price for the first pair -> $147.21
Price for the second pair -> $510.07
Conclusion -> the Fulcrums almost cost three times as much as the Shimano's

*Except for the weight*, what's the big difference between these two pairs of nice wheels? And are the Fulcrums worth their price?

Please help me out!!


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## ewitz (Sep 11, 2002)

g0ldh0rn said:


> <a href="https://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-R500.-type-.html"><img src="https://lh5.ggpht.com/Ruben.VanMelckebeke/SAzUeak7DBI/AAAAAAAAARs/SkYV3mJcb20/s400/shim_r500_whlset.jpg" /></a> _versus _ <a href="https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/jspfulcrum/productsdetail.jsp?productid=4&varid=14&crankset=false&lang=en&world=road"><img src="https://lh6.ggpht.com/Ruben.VanMelckebeke/SAzUeqk7DCI/AAAAAAAAAR0/NmhcfhkpQVc/s400/whfulr3-m.jpg" /></a>
> 
> Price for the first pair -> $147.21
> Price for the second pair -> $510.07
> ...


Start by comparing them to a more appropriate wheelset. The Fulcrum Racing 7 is what you should be using.


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## g0ldh0rn (Apr 9, 2008)

I am aware of it that this is a risky comparison, but I'm currently using the Shimano's (they came with the bicycle) and I want to upgrade to another wheelset ... the Fulcrums. That's why I want to know the advantages/disadvantages of the Fulcrums in comparison with the Shimano's.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

I have a set of the WH-R500 wheels on my commuter bike. They're not bad wheels, just not great. They're heavy compared to all of my other wheels including my 26" mountain bike wheels. I'm guessing that the Fulcrums are going to be lighter than the Shimano's and that means that they will accelerate and stop better than the Shimano wheels.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

those r500s are known for being poor... many break spokes, so in addition to being heavy they are very average as far as quality goes...

fulcrum 3s would have much better quality hubs, better longevity with spokes, and prolly be stiffer.... they are better, whether or not they are worth the $500, is a question for you...


i know some people will post they have 500s and they go ok.... still, they are roundly panned if you search around... fulcrum 3s are rightly in another category. Got a pic of a taco'd 500 if u want some ancedotal evidence... just hit a frikken hump in the road... i treat my campy wheels like crap and they will never do that to me ( i hope ), oh and don't take 'wheel reviews' with much more than a grain of salt if they have less than 10k on em IMHO...

"wow, My 1 mo old wheels, with 50 fair weather miles, didn't spontaneously explode!!!" - that is not a review.


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## g0ldh0rn (Apr 9, 2008)

Thanks for your replies!
Although I'm not totally convinced yet, e.g. "the hub of the Fulcrums are far better" but what's so great about it? But I'll believe what you say, because I think you have to be an engineer if you want to understand it to the details. (any engineers here?)

About the "Dynamic balance" technology of Fulcrum: I think it sucks because you pay money to have a perfectly balanced wheel, but when you place your wheelmagnet or tire (with air valve) it would be inbalanced again...


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

hey no worries.... i haven't split open the racing 3, but it is pretty similar to the campy zonda which has record level hubs... trust me... way diff - from the materials to the bearings... 

cheapo wheels have very simple construction with just cartridge bearings, record stuff has loose ball system and lots of high grade alloy and even titanium for longevity, it also has some cartirdge bearings in the freehub. Main thing is that the bearings can take *alot* of miles and can be easily adjusted.... they roll smooth, stay that way, and are light and durable.

funnily enuff, i was trained as an aero engineer once upon a time... don't worry about dynamic balance, campy has it too, its BS..

oh and in my experience the 2:1 lacing pattern (or G3) has built a very strong rear wheel, i am moving on to incorporating that into my handbuilt wheels... i really like it and see some practical benefits to it... i've found them stiff and durable and keep true really well since there is far more tension in the NDS....

edit: now illustrated !


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

g0ldh0rn said:


> About the "Dynamic balance" technology of Fulcrum: I think it sucks because you pay money to have a perfectly balanced wheel, but when you place your wheelmagnet or tire (with air valve) it would be inbalanced again...


Fulcrums are good wheels. But as wankski said, this Fulcrum dynamic balance thing is just silly marketing BS. Bicycles don't need perfectly balanced wheels. If you get Fulcrums and they turn out to be unbalanced (see link), it doesn't matter.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=127351


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

My WH-R500 wheels come with cup and cone bearings. As a matter of fact, the hubs are like any Shimano freehub I have ever owned: loose ball bearings, cup and cone races, removeable freehub. They just have less holes in them than any other Shimano hub that I own.

About the dynamic balancing thing, all rims have a seam. The manufacturers usually place a ferrule under the seam, adding weight there. That extra weight is usually enough to offset the weight of the valve of the inner tube but some times not. It depends on the tube used. Pick up the wheel of your bike and slowly spin it and see if it wants to stop with the valve up or down. It's usually up, in my experience. Campy wheels have an extra slug of aluminum rim opposite the valve or an un-butted spoke in that position to give it even more weight. I like to put my wheel magnet on that side to counterbalance it. Does it make a difference? Probably not, if you consider the weight of imbalance compared to the weight of the bike and rider combined.


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## DirtTurtle (Dec 21, 2007)

First time on in 3 months and this is perfect question for me,

My first set of wheels were the 500's, i actually found them reasonable compared to comments ive heard, although i am light so spoke breakadges etc werent going to be as much of a problem.
I then upgraded my bike to ultegra, ran the 500's for a week whilst my racing 3's arrived. Putting the 3's on, the difference in accelation was really noticeable.
Ive now ran them for about 1500km, and love every bit of them. Once the bearings loosened up, they roll incredibly quick. Still are 100% true, had a couple of spokes turn though. Having said that one i had the 500's trued the first time ive put 5000km on them and they havnt come out. 
From direct experience the two wheels 'feel' a world apart to me, and others have probably seen my comments before im wrapped with the fulcrums. Then again i have only ever had those two wheelsets, so i cannot compare the 3's to anything else other than the 500's. All i can say is the 3's are definately worth the price difference from my experience, but dont discount other wheel brands or handbuilts depending on ur intended use etc.

Ps guys are right about marketing jargon, best trick i use for parts is jump on forums like here and spend alot of time reading reviews.


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## Rubber Lizard (May 10, 2007)

Considering the massive price difference you are comparing apples to oranges here when everyone talks about quality. A reasonable comparison would the be Shimano 6600 wheelset vs the Fulcrum racing 3
.


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## DirtTurtle (Dec 21, 2007)

Rubber Lizard said:


> Considering the massive price difference you are comparing apples to oranges here when everyone talks about quality. A reasonable comparison would the be Shimano 6600 wheelset vs the Fulcrum racing 3
> .


Correct there, i kinda assumed that if the 3's were mentioned that may be in the price range. Maybe a question that would help me and maybe others would be rider details ie weight and intended use etc? We've established they'res a big difference in catergories, so what was the purpose of speciffically comparing the two?


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

DirtTurtle said:


> We've established they'res a big difference in catergories, so what was the purpose of speciffically comparing the two?


I think the OP just wanted to know what the set of wheels which costs three times as much as the one he already has would do for him—given that both sets hold up the bike, rotate and look about the same. Tough question to answer unless you know the person asking it. Some people enjoy $4/bottle wines, others wouldn't touch anything under $25/bottle.


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## DirtTurtle (Dec 21, 2007)

wim said:


> Tough question to answer unless you know the person asking it. Some people enjoy $4/bottle wines, others wouldn't touch anything under $25/bottle.


+1 on that

In terms of my amateur noticeable differences

-Stiffer Ride, also r500s flex on climbs 
-Lighter ---> rim is lighter quicker to accelerate
-Roll Faster
-Look more 'bling'
-Cost 3X the Price--> more money more bs thrown into making them seem better
-Stay true from 'factory' longer, like i said im one who had the 500's trued once and havnt come back out
-Overall build quality appears alot higher, but if you dont need it i would pay for it
-Much much more laterally stiff, never once had brake rub

So i honestly say, if you want a 'better' wheelset overall yes the 3's are in terms of speed, in racing anyway. If its for commuting etc at a moderate pace, the 500's are fine i train on them and keep good averages, just like the racing 3's for acceleration in races and good on decents.


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## takl23 (Jul 22, 2007)

I have the 500's on my old Jamis, and Fulcrum Racing 7's on my Salsa. They roll better, spin far longer, are stiffer and faster than the shimano's. You can't go wrong with the Fulcrums, they are made my campy after all.


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## MarvinK (Feb 12, 2002)

I have some Fulcrum Racing 3s, and they're great. Shimano converts sometimes complain about the noise of a Campy (yes, it's Record-level) freehub.

If you're concerned about the Fulcrum price (although $500 is a great price for the 3s), you might look at Neuvation wheels. They'll still be a great upgrade from the crappy Shimano wheels--and much cheaper. You can always take the ugly decals off!


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## Sirveyir (Apr 5, 2008)

*Don't like the Shimano Wheels!!*

I had Shimano WH-R550 wheels on my 2005 Cannondale. I was at first attracted to the straight pull spokes and thought they would eliminate spoke breakage at the hub. I am a big guy and was somewhat concerned about the 20 count on the rear spokes, but trusted the Big S. 
My first surprise was that the hubs are cone and loose bearing. They were tight and needed adjustment right off of the bat. I was unable to find a spoke wrench through normal channels and rode without one until my first incident on a nice pedal on a bike trail. I popped the head off of one of the nipples on the rear drive side at about 1000 miles.
I was out of town and the LBS was able to get me back on the road with Saturday sales personel, and I purchased a Park spoke wrench and some extra nipples, Dura Ace!!
The second nipple popped on a century ride and just about left me stranded on the road. I could not get the broken nipple off without additional tools. You need TWO wrenches to adjust the spokes, one to hold the bladed spoke. I was barely able to get enough wobble out of the wheel to clear the chainstays and had to release the cable on the rear brake. Still managed to mar the paint on my frame and mess up the sidewall on the tire, but I finished the ride.
I replaced the 550's with some new Mavic Aksiums off ebay with tires and tubes for $165, delivered. I still have straight pull spokes but sealed cartridge bearings and 24 spokes on the rear.


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