# New AR1 build. Loving it.



## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

Full DA 7900
Bontrager Ti finish Race X Lite circa 2007, I think (training set)
Bontrager cockpit and cages. 

15.56 with my sdv66 tubies. 16 even with the clinchers. 

Such an awesome bike. So much love to Race Pace Bikes in Ellicott City, MD for the super clean build. 









































































Sorry about crappy iphone pics. It's what I got...

Handlebar is a Bontrager XXX blank that was a limited run. 

First hard ride down in DC this morning. Super stiff super awesome. The only criticism is that through some of the sketchy chewed up pavement it was more harsh than my Madone was. But it is soooo much more stiff. Tested myself bridging gaps and doing some chasing up the tough climbs. Can't ask for more from a bike. Bridging through the wind was just awesome. With just a mid section wheel like a 30-40mm this thing will just fly. 

Let me know what you think so I can feel better about how broke I am now.

Here's one with the SDV 66 wheels although I adjusted the saddle, seatpost height and added cages after this pic so it looks a little wonky.


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

Fixed.


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## zach.scofield (Apr 11, 2010)

ummmmmm....drool. Thank you for building such a nice ride.


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## Ray_from_SA (Jun 15, 2005)

Nice bike.

The guys in EC are an awesome group. Used to work at Race Pace OM myself.


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## Vee (Jun 17, 2010)

Nice bike. That stem is LOOOONG, man.


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

I ran a 140 on the Madone. Head tube is 10mm lower on the Felt so I brought the stem in 10mm to see how I like it which is to say a lot so far.

I'm 5'11" and am on a 56. I like to be good and low. I've still got plenty of bend in my elbows when I'm riding relaxed.


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## tlclee (Jun 9, 2009)

Thats a nice looking bike. I love mine too...it doesn't want to stop when cruising around 25mph.


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## 95zpro (Mar 28, 2010)

Nice ride, I love mine too. I wonder what the frame weight difference is between an AR1 and AR5?


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

I think the AR5 is the same as the AR frameset and the claimed difference is only 100 grams.

Frame fork and headset were almost exactly 1800 grams with bottle cage bolts and the hanger.

I actually love the frame weight for their aero frames. 15lbs is what i shoot for on my bikes and its a pretty easy target to hit for these framesets. With some 303s it would be sub 15 easy and the RXL saddle isnt particularly light either nor the DA pedals.

Choosing the parts I like without trying to weight weenie at all put me at 15.5 with cages and 66mm wheels. It's like a dream come true.

The F1 is awesome for sure but I'm not trying to build a sub 13lb bike. AR fo life.


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## 95zpro (Mar 28, 2010)

I've got zipp 404's, devox bar, speed play pedals, full 7800 Dura-ace setup and I'm still at 18 lbs! Where else can I cut weight?


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## tlclee (Jun 9, 2009)

I had to change out to Fizik saddle with carbon rail, look keo carbon, and a set of 46UL with 65g inner tube to get my AR1 from 17 to 15.6. 17lb was with prologo Nago TR, Ultegra pedals, and Hed Jet 6 c2. 

I think you prob need to change out the 404 to tubular if you want real weight loss. Wheels are the best place to lose the weight. The bike handle so much better with the 46ULs


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

95zpro said:


> I've got zipp 404's, devox bar, speed play pedals, full 7800 Dura-ace setup and I'm still at 18 lbs! Where else can I cut weight?


If they are zipp 404 clinchers they are probably pretty heavy. What cassette are you using and chain? Saddle? Are you running gel under the bar? Tires can be huge differences. Latex tubes?

I'll bet there are 600 grams in your wheels alone.


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## 95zpro (Mar 28, 2010)

MisterC - Yeah I think you are right, the 404's are clinchers and they are 2-1/2 lbs each; I weighed them tonight! Running a Dura-ace cassette with KMC X10SL chain and the stock Felt seat. I guess my next question is what would be a good everyday, light wheelset that you would recommend?


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

You can see I'm a bit biased but, Bontrager Race X Lite wheels are fantastic as an everyday/training set.

The Dura Ace 7850 Carbon Clincher is pretty awesome as well and come in under 1400g, but a little more pricey..

Best bet for affordable lightweight and durable are the Bonty or DA wheels, ready made, in my opinion. You can get your own wheels built with endless possibilities as well.

DA hubs to Open Pros with DT revolutions or aerolites make awesome everyday wheels at around 1500g.

Your 404 clinchers can be great crit wheels but if you are doing any kind of climbing I'd try to find something at or under 1500g. Losing that rotational weight will really matter and with those zipps, its all in the rims.

I don't know what the felt saddle weighs in at but I'm of the opinion that a saddle should be at least under 200 grams. If you are riding on cromo rails at 250g then save those pennies and grab the upgraded version of the same saddle that more than likely exists.


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## 95zpro (Mar 28, 2010)

Agreed, I was in a hilly race a few weeks ago and struggled on the inclines but loved the straights, looking back I think it was the wheels that contributed to this...


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## MisterC (May 26, 2007)

They were a part of it. But it all works as a package. Bike parts get tested individually all the time and people love to write off minscule differences as inconsequential but when you put the package together as a whole, those differences add up.

Take the aero frame test done in Tour magazine recently, The AR beat out al or most of the manufacurers in every test but at the end of the day the differences between the test frames and the control frame, a Cannondale SuperSix, were arguably insignificant. But couple the CdA improvement with a good set of aero wheels, maybe some super thin shoe covers, a good low riding position and the smoothest bearings in he business and you are looking at 10-12 watts or more saved in a lot of conditions and that is huge assuming you can hit your weight goal in the process.

I don't want to make you think that swapping out those wheels for lighter wheels will take you from pack fill to the podium but from a total package standpoint, they are a glaring inefficiency in terms of an aerodynamics to weight ratio if the additional cost is 2-3lbs of weight total for the bike.

I'm sure there is a more scientific way to look at the problem but I said to myself, sub 16lbs, aero frame, aero wheels.

And I'm there. But if the bike pictured were 18lbs, I'd be revaluating my race bike choice this year.


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## hatone (May 8, 2011)

Hey there,

I've just dropped you a PM, MisterC.

I've noticed you've got the new 2011 AR1 frame optimised for Di2 gearing, but I see you are running conventional mechanical gearing. 

Does it work well? How did you find the routing, especially the front derailluer that doesn't have the cable guide? Would it be possible to run Campagnolo?

Please let me know as I'm very tempted to buy one, esp if it works with mechanical gearing. Can't justify Di2 for the moment.

Thank you


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## bvanherp (Jul 1, 2009)

*Ar1*

Mister C- Thanks for your help...I appreciate it. Here is my finished bike.


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## Superdave3T (May 11, 2009)

MisterC said:


> Your 404 clinchers can be great crit wheels but if you are doing any kind of climbing I'd try to find something at or under 1500g. Losing that rotational weight will really matter and with those zipps, its all in the rims.
> 
> I don't know what the felt saddle weighs in at but I'm of the opinion that a saddle should be at least under 200 grams. If you are riding on cromo rails at 250g then save those pennies and grab the upgraded version of the same saddle that more than likely exists.


Unless you are riding sustained grades of 8% or have a race that finishes with a small-ring climb, Wheel weight is grossly overemphasized. The energy required to accelerate a 2000g wheel vs. a 1000g wheel from 40kph to 60kph in the final 500m of a race on flat level ground pales in comparison to the energy lost in aerodynamic drag.

I'm of the opinion that a saddle should be comfortable first. That's why you see pros still riding the unbranded Rolls and Regal saddles they likely began their racing careers on. Again, weight is not the key element to saddle selection.

Nice bike BTW!
-SD


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## bvanherp (Jul 1, 2009)

Hopefully these pictures are a bit larger. Super Dave... thanks for all your help too!


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## spencerw (Sep 23, 2011)

Awesome bike.


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## bvanherp (Jul 1, 2009)

Thank you


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