# Best way to remove paint from CF fork?



## PseuZQ (Mar 27, 2002)

I've got an OEM Trek ICON Air Rail that I wat to sell. (Yeah, megabux are comin' my way!!) It's all beat up and scratched to heck, so I think I might have an easier time selling it nude. 

What's the best way to remove clearcoat, decals and paint? Sanding sounds like the obvious solution, but what grit when, and should I do all this by hand v. mechanically? 

Thanks.


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## Akirasho (Jan 27, 2004)

... I've had good success using grits of wet/dry (used wet) from 600 to 2000 to work through such... course, I was trying to show a natural weave beneath... and not all carbon products are so blessed. Be warned that a carbon weave pattern may be a cosmetic layer on some products but on others, nude carbon may just looks like scratched plastic.

BTW, I refinished my carbon with a combo of a clear automotive lacquer (inexpensive aerosol from auto parts store) and rubbing compounds (same store) to bring back a shiny finish.


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

Hi,

When repainting an entire frame I recommend wet sanding with 600 grit. You don't need to remove all the clear coat, but just sand to the point the old clear coat get opaque. This will give the new layer enough grip to stay there. When sanding the decal zones, sand a bit more to expose the decal and then strip it off. You must have special care when sanding angles and uneven surfaces, since it will be eaiser to remove all the clear coat and begintop sand the carbon fiber. You will notice if that happens, because the water will become dark. Stop at that point. 

When applying the new clear coat, first give light strokes covering the surfaces where decals were applied. Let dry and wet sand that zones with 800 grit. Now you can stick new decals. Then apply an even light coat to the entire frame, let dry and you are good to go.

Regards


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## PseuZQ (Mar 27, 2002)

Thanks! Both sound like good ideas. Appreciate the input!
PS -- I already know there's no cosmetic weave underneath. Should I bag the clearcoat and advertise as ready to prime and paint?


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*thoughts...*

You'll be sanding a long time with 600 grit and finer. To remove paint, start with 320 and only switch to 400 near the end of the job. Not that many years ago, 600 was the standard grit to use just before polishing, but these days there are 1000-2000 grits available.


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

C-40 said:


> You'll be sanding a long time with 600 grit and finer. To remove paint, start with 320 and only switch to 400 near the end of the job. Not that many years ago, 600 was the standard grit to use just before polishing, but these days there are 1000-2000 grits available.


If you use 320 grit chances to sand the outer carbon layer and probably break a lot of carbon threads extrenal layer (cosmetic or not) are too high. I'd never advice tu strip ALL the clear coat, what I recommend is just to get the old clear coat opaque to a point where the new clear coat will stick on safely.

I'd never use 320 grit on angled areas or junctions, you will reach the CF top layer too fast. Not even if you are an experienced painter.

By the way, 1000-2000 grits are used only to get rid of the clear coat orange peel. If you have properly applied the clear coat on a frame, you will never have to sand with that grit. You should not even use polisher.


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## peugeotguy87 (Jan 26, 2008)

I work in the aircraft repair business and we use a very soft grit such as crushed peach pits or crushed walnut shells on CF parts. I recommend taking your fork to a sandblasting shop and tell then to use of those soft media - it'll get the job done and won't ruin the fork.


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## MIN in PDX (Nov 29, 2007)

I have used the green part of a sponge under running water with success. CAREFUL not to get down to the fiber of CF weave. That's deadly. Also the nude carbon needs to be polished with Formula 303, ArmorAll or high SPF sunscreen because UV radiation kills CF.


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## clm2206 (Sep 12, 2006)

MIN in PDX said:


> Also the nude carbon needs to be polished with Formula 303, ArmorAll or high SPF sunscreen because UV radiation kills CF.


Nude carbon fiber (like any other surface) must never been primed with nothing but a very clean damp rag. Under the clear coat you should only apply the compounds and materials the painting manufacturer says. This will ensure the painting act as a whole. 

In case of painting nude CF directly with clear coat, you must have a completely clean, dry and grease free surface. No polishes under the painting. If any, they should be applied over (not under) the clear coat.

The clear coat itself gives (the better the quality the better UV protection) the CF the protection needed. To ensure the best results and extra gloss you can use any hard synthetic wax, but this should be applied at least 10 days after the last coat. Let the urethane painting cure properly. Wax will give the clear coat an extra protection, but only when the latter has been properly cured, not before.


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## MIN in PDX (Nov 29, 2007)

My comments were assuming the OP will be running the cork as nude carbon.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*lack of skill...*



clm2206 said:


> If you use 320 grit chances to sand the outer carbon layer and probably break a lot of carbon threads extrenal layer (cosmetic or not) are too high. I'd never advice tu strip ALL the clear coat, what I recommend is just to get the old clear coat opaque to a point where the new clear coat will stick on safely.
> 
> I'd never use 320 grit on angled areas or junctions, you will reach the CF top layer too fast. Not even if you are an experienced painter.
> 
> By the way, 1000-2000 grits are used only to get rid of the clear coat orange peel. If you have properly applied the clear coat on a frame, you will never have to sand with that grit. You should not even use polisher.


If I read correctly, the fork is painted and clearcoated, so scuffing the clearcoat is not an option to leave a nude carbon finish. You have to get all the paint off. I've probably over estimated the skill of the sander, but I'd still use with some 320, at least to get started. If the fork is painted and clearcoated, there should be a lot of material to remove. 400 grit certainly won't hurt a thing. As for braking carbon fibers, that's inevitable if you want all of the paint removed, leaving the fork nude, as the OP wants. As soon a you get some black in the sanding water, you know you're there. A little touch won't a thing. A fork isn't going to break because a fraction of a one percent of the total thickness was removed. The disappointmment will come when the carbon under the paint does not have the attractive weave pattern that clearcoated forks have.


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## MIN in PDX (Nov 29, 2007)

FYI, you can achieve the nude carbon look without removing all of the clearcoat. Wet sanding the surface results in a nude carbon look, even with the clear coat intact.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*not if it's painted...*



MIN in PDX said:


> FYI, you can achieve the nude carbon look without removing all of the clearcoat. Wet sanding the surface results in a nude carbon look, even with the clear coat intact.



A lot of old Treks have forks painted to match the bike. If the fork is blue, white or red, scuffing the clearcoat won't give the nude look or remove the decals, that are normally under the clearcoat.


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## PseuZQ (Mar 27, 2002)

Correct. The fork was painted to match the bike. The decals are under the clearcoat. I want to remove the clearcoat, paint and decals and sell the fork as "ready to prime and paint." 

I know from having the rest of the bike painted that there's no "cool carbon weave" under there. I would just like to give the potential buyer the option of painting the fork any color he or she chooses, and make it easier in the process.


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## MIN in PDX (Nov 29, 2007)

How about painting over the factory paint?


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