# Cleaning chain on bike?



## RyanM (Jul 15, 2008)

What is the best way to clean grease, dirt etc.. from your chain while on the bike before lubing?

Can I put simple green on a cloth to clean it etc or is there a better way?


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## Erion929 (Jun 10, 2010)

There are a lot of ways....everybody has their favorite method. I use the White Lightning Trigger Chain Cleaner. You just close the clamp over the chain and squirt cleaner over the chain as you backpedal the crank by hand. It takes 15 seconds and comes out very clean.
Then you lube it....I use Pro Link chain lube.

White Lightning


**


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

Erion929 said:


> ......
> Then you lube it....I use Pro Link chain lube......*


I use Pro Link also and find it works well to clean the chain too. But I don't need my chain to look "jewelry clean" either. Mainly because it wouldn't look that good for that long anyway.

PS - I would NEVER use Simple Green again on my chain. Too easy to damage the chain plus there are just better ways to clean one.

My theory is that you lube inside the rollers and clean the outside. I'm not convinced you could ever clean the inside of the rollers anyway. But you could wash more unwanted particles into them.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

park tool chain cleaner thingmajig

I use it more on the MTB, as it gets mucked up more

Chain Cleaning with a Park's Tool CM-5 Cyclone Chain Scrubber - YouTube


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## RyanM (Jul 15, 2008)

Thanks for the responses


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Those chain cleaner rigs are garbage. 

If you lube with a mineral based lube you should clean with a mineral based cleaner. I like a little OMS on a rag to clean and relube. Never had a problem.

Wax is not a lube and simple green is not a chain cleaner.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

Simple green and similar products are fine as an *off bike* chain or parts cleaner. No good can come from using products like simple green on the bike, no matter how careful you are. You need to very thoroughly wash all the residual simple green from the cleaned part with soap and water, else it will dissolve the lube that you put back on the part. For a chain, it takes a fair bit of cleaning to get all the simple green out of the rollers and pivot points. Using products like simple green on the bike will end up with the part insufficiently cleaned of the cleaner, or with the cleaner getting washed into unintended bearings. Too many times I’ve seen bikes where the BB and rear hub/freehub bearings are bone dry and/or the chain totally trashed because the owners of the bike were cleaning the chains on the bike.

As has been pointed out, I agree, wax is not a lube. Nor is WD-40.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> Those chain cleaner rigs are garbage.


Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.


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## jsedlak (Jun 17, 2008)

I'm a fan of using pro-link to clean and lube all in one. Works fine, lasts fairly long.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Try doing a search. This issue gets hotly debated about every other week along with what chain lube to use, which is probably your next question. I'm sure Kerry Irons will be along shortly to describe the home brew and rag approach. 

FWIW, I clean mine with an old toothbrush and Zepp citrus degreaser from Home Depot. Get a $7 Park cassette tool and some Zepp and you'll be set.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

MMinSC said:


> Bucket of hot soapy water and a long handled toilet brush.


We are talking chains here not my teeth.


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## MMinSC (Nov 19, 2011)

Bucket of hot soapy water and a long handled toilet brush.


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## Erion929 (Jun 10, 2010)

jsedlak said:


> I'm a fan of using pro-link to clean and lube all in one. Works fine, lasts fairly long.




Actually, I'll amend my initial post and say that this is what I also do 4 out of 5 times.....clean and lube with ProLink only. On maybe the 5th time, I use the White Lightning Trigger cleaner I referenced, before lubing.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Special Eyes said:


> Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.


20 years around shops, race teams and the such. I have never seen one of those in action. Sold a few to some do-it-your-selfers after they read in "Bicycling" they needed one, thats about it. That thing is a gimic. Its like a Slap-chop. Cant get it done properly so we will sell you something to get it somewhat done, kinda, halfway. 
I dont really care how you chose to do it but dont buy some "as seen in preformance" gimic tool. 

The video is not safe for work.


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## nelliott500 (Apr 16, 2012)

I have the Park chain cleaning tool and it's fantastic for doing a thorough clean every 1000 miles or so. I wouldn't use it for cleaning weekly or between rides. That's serious overkill and you don't want your chain to be _that_ clean anyway. Just use a rag with some WD-40 or OMS and wipe down the outside of the chain once a week or more often if you ride in very dusty conditions. Lube when necessary.


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## Samadhi (Nov 1, 2011)

Special Eyes said:


> Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.


+1 ^

I love the Park Cyclone, too.

I don't use Park's degreaser, though. Too bloody expensive. I get citrus degreaser at Home Depot or Lowes. I'm not real picky - either whatever is on sale, or Zep.

I run the chain through the Cyclone. Then I wipe down the chain with a rag. I may repeat this process once more using fresh degreaser.

Then I blow -dry the chain with my air compressor to get out any excess degreaser that lurks in the rollers, etc.

I use ProLink lube. I apply one drop on each side of the roller so some lube gets to the plates, too. Then I run the chain through each gear before wiping off the excess lub with an oily rag (I want to leave some oil on the chain ).

I won't say how often I do this, but suffice it to say I'm a bit anal when it comes to the drive line on my bike. :blush2:


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## csmith23 (Apr 23, 2012)

is it okay to use bluemagic aluminum polish? I used in on other parts of the bike such as the rim. Is that okay?


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

csmith23 said:


> is it okay to use bluemagic aluminum polish? I used in on other parts of the bike such as the rim. Is that okay?


you're effin joking, right...?


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## Eric_H (Feb 5, 2004)

I like being able to take the chain off with a connector so I can soak in OMS, but on bikes where I can't do that I start by wiping down the chain, pulleys and rings with a rag. I have some OMS in a lube bottle, so I "lube" the chain in OMS and wipe it down with a rag, then take the hose and rinse the OMS and any residual dirt off. I do remove the rear wheel and use a Pedros chain keeper device so I can turn the cranks while doing this.

Once it's dry I re-lube, usually with Finish Line Wet since I ride in a fairly liquid sunshine climate.


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## charlox5 (Jan 31, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> Its like a Slap-chop. Cant get it done properly so we will sell you something to get it somewhat done, kinda, halfway.
> I dont really care how you chose to do it but dont buy some "as seen in preformance" gimic tool.


I LIKE my slap chop. of course, i got a different brand than the infomercial slap chop, but it's basically the same concept. even though it's a perfect opportunity for my nice cutlery to shine, dicing carrots is too g-d tedious sometimes. the slap chop makes getting a good dice EASY. 

I usually degrease with WD-40 or mineral spirits/kerosene and brush, then use the dupont teflon spray as lube. periodically i'll pull the chain off and do a more complete cleaning, along with the cassette--usually a mineral spirits bath and brush.


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## cydswipe (Mar 7, 2002)

I use OMS in the Park Cyclone. Wipe. Let dry. Lube. Wipe again. Ride.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Standard advice*



Erion929 said:


> There are a lot of ways....everybody has their favorite method.


And here is mine (and many others' as well): Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS. 
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Kerry Irons said:


> And here is mine (and many others' as well): Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:
> 
> 1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS.
> 2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
> ...


Well said again.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Kerry,

No chain cleaner gimic box thing?


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

charlox5 said:


> dicing carrots is too g-d tedious sometimes. the slap chop makes getting a good dice EASY.


Unless you know what a good dice is, and why it's important to have your dice at even size.


On topic: A chainbox does a terrific job. Of taking the lube out of the chain. Ask yourself if that's what you really intended to do.

The people that very well may have made your chain don't think so...

KMC USA


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Of course that's what I intend to do. The lube is what gets dirty and worn out. After removal, I apply new lube. Pretty basic. Don't you change the oil in your car engine?

The KMC page you refer to warns against using SOLVENTS in a chain cleaner. I only use citrus degreaser. No damage, and thoroughly clean including my hands.


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## fontarin (Mar 28, 2009)

I usually wipe the chain down after a ride. Other than that, soap and water, dry, and lube it back up as needed. This keeps it clean and shifting well most of the time.


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## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

Special Eyes said:


> Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.



I agree.


I use kerosene to clean the chain after _every_ ride.


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## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

tihsepa said:


> 20 years around shops, race teams and the such. I have never seen one of those in action. Sold a few to some do-it-your-selfers after they read in "Bicycling" they needed one, thats about it. That thing is a gimic. Its like a Slap-chop. Cant get it done properly so we will sell you something to get it somewhat done, kinda, halfway.
> I dont really care how you chose to do it but dont buy some "as seen in preformance" gimic tool.
> 
> The video is not safe for work.



Really???


They're not as good as I think?


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

*+1*



Special Eyes said:


> Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.


I agree ... does a super job, but is a bit messy. I use OMS (odorless mineral spirits) as the cleaning fluid. Typically I'll drain and refill the gadget with fresh OMS, for 3 – 4 passes, depending how dirty the chain is ... on final pass, the drained OMS is nearly colorless.

My preference is to get both 'insides' and outside of the chain as clean as practical, before lubing with Oil+OMS mixture. I am getting very long life out of my Campy chains and cassettes, so this procedure suits me.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Kerry Irons said:


> ... A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. ..


Actually , mine are ;-)

- Park Tool gadget, 3–4 passes with fresh OMS in each pass (~10 back pedals per pass). 
- clean chainrings, RD pulleys, & cassette w/ paper towls moistened with OMS. 
- blowout residual OMS from chain w/ compressed air.
- re-lube side plates and rollers w/ Oil+OMS mixture, let soak in for few hrs.
- Wipe off as much chain lube as possible w/ paper towels.


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## southlogan (Jan 8, 2012)

Special Eyes said:


> Of course that's what I intend to do. The lube is what gets dirty and worn out. After removal, I apply new lube. Pretty basic. Don't you change the oil in your car engine?
> 
> The KMC page you refer to warns against using SOLVENTS in a chain cleaner. I only use citrus degreaser. No damage, and thoroughly clean including my hands.


Um...citrus degreaser IS a solvent...of grease. Just like water is a solvent of salt and many other things.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Kerry Irons said:


> A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. .


Sure it is. You want the exterior to be clean to the touch. You want the lube inside of the chain components.

with the exterior still "tacky" with lube, all it does is attract dirt and it works its way inside the chain and the exterior grit will increase the wear of the external components of the drivetrain.

Yes... I believe we all should agree that no lube is perfect.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

Prolink Gold for me.

I shift to the big ring and middleish cog.. 

I wipe down the dirty chain with those cheap blue shop rags you can buy everywhere.. I also wipe down the rings and jockey wheels.

Once I have it as clean as I can with just rags I place 1 drop of PLG on each roller.. Takes a some time but I get exactly enough lube.

I then backpedal with a new clean rag on the chain for a bit until the rag comes back mostly clean.. 

I'll do this once a week at least regardless of conditions. More if needed.


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## GeoKrpan (Feb 3, 2008)

I use generic Swiffer refills that I get at the 99 cent store. They get the chain plenty clean enough, the pulleys and chainrings too. What I like about them is that there are no dirty rags to clean, no fumes, and it is super quick and easy. I find that I clean my chain more frequently because of the ease.
I've used citrus degreaser and chain cleaning machines in the past and I think they are a hassle and overkill by comparison.


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## JimP (Dec 18, 2001)

I used to use a chain cleaner box with OMS or naptha every 100 miles. I could get all of the dirt out of the links with several passes through the solution. I would then dry the chain with compressed air and then lube with home brew. The chain would last 1,500 - 2,000 miles. Now I have taken Kerry Irons method of wiping, ProLink Gold, and wiping and the chain lasts over 4,000 miles. I believe using the chain cleaning box removed all the lube in the pivots and then I couldn't get sufficient lube back into the pivots so it wore faster.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

JimP said:


> I used to use a chain cleaner box with OMS or naptha every 100 miles. I could get all of the dirt out of the links with several passes through the solution. I would then dry the chain with compressed air and then lube with home brew. The chain would last 1,500 - 2,000 miles. ....


That seems extraordinarily low chain life. I am using basically that routine, but probably closer to every 200 miles.

Using Campy Chorus 11sp chains, I am projecting an approx 9K mile chain life .. haven't worn out any yet; I rotate among chains to extend cassette life.

Local environmental conditions may play a big role, though. I don't intentionally ride in the rain, and road dust & grit could be another large factor.


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## 67caddy (Nov 4, 2009)

I use Pedros Ice Wax 2. Usually once every 150 to 200 miles (or after a very wet ride). Put it on entire length of chain. Wipe the chain with a clean rag to get the wax over all of the chain. I then clean out between every link with a Q-tip (outter plate gaps), twisted up end of peice of paper towel (inner plate gaps). I find it does a good job of cleaning and lubricating in one, as long as the chain is not super nasty. The wax doesn't get on the rest of the bike, no dripping mess either. It takes a little longer, but it doens't get the bike, me or shop area splattered. Off bike cleanup for nasty, new chain: Soak it in mineral spirits, blow dry with air compressor. Put it in ziplock bag with a few squirts of IceWax, work it around in the bag for a couple of minutes. Take chain out of bag, wipe it thoroughly to take off excess. Hang chain to dry for about 30 minutes, and back on the bike.


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

Cleaning a chain is NOT EASY. All these postings claim to clean the chain. Some will, but not in the time taken. The only time your chain is really clean is when you twist it between your fingers and it doesn't feel gritty. It may look like a clean chain after a few swipes with a chain cleaner, but it's the girt inside the rollers that wears the chain.

I clean mine by taking it off the bike and spraying each roller with brake cleaner, this blasts out all the crap. Then I put the chain in plastic bag filled with oil, move it around so the oil get inside the rollers and leave it soaking overnight. This way you can twist the chain between your finger and it feel smooth.
Just like new.

I have managed to clean it on the bike using a chain cleaner, you have to change the cleaning fluid about ten times though..


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

I run my chain dry (no lube). All that lube is just extra weight. Every milli-gram counts! :thumbsup:


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

This is the only way to do it right.

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System


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## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> This is the only way to do it right.
> 
> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System


Just ordered the Sram Deluxe kit, do you think the cotton swabs will work on my KMC chain?


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## Matsushita (Mar 18, 2012)

I get my chain "hot tanked" at the performance engine builder shop once a month. I just have to remember to take it off the bike first!


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Kerry Irons said:


> A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible.


What? That's wacky. All NEW chains are that. Clean, even dry, outer plates are just fine, as any lube on the outer side plates does nothing so dry ones are better since they don't allow dirt cling. Lube only is important inside the plates and around the pin/joints.

---------------------------------

GeoKRpan wrote:

"I use generic Swiffer refills that I get at the 99 cent store. They get the chain plenty clean enough, the pulleys and chainrings too. What I like about them is that there are no dirty rags to clean, no fumes, and it is super quick and easy. I find that I clean my chain more frequently because of the ease.
I've used citrus degreaser and chain cleaning machines in the past and I think they are a hassle and overkill by comparison.".

Aren you simply wiping down the chain with a rag and thinking it's clean? REALITY CHECK TIME. You are not cleaning your chain. You're just making it look better.


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## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

tihsepa said:


> This is the only way to do it right.
> 
> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System



Man, cleaning it that way gets old after the fourth or fifth time doing it  .


But hey; it has to be done.
:whitetextlaugh!:


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## jesperjes (Sep 7, 2010)

I'm using Hope Sh1t Shifter to clean the chain/gears. It works really well. I'm surprised how clean the chain is everytime I use it

JJ


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## jefflichty (Aug 22, 2011)

pmf said:


> FWIW, I clean mine with an old toothbrush and Zepp citrus degreaser from Home Depot. Get a $7 Park cassette tool and some Zepp and you'll be set.


i use an old toothbrush as well as a cheap paintbrush ($1)...works well


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## romelman (Feb 10, 2012)

*frequency*

how often should a bike be cleaned and re-lubed?


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## Samadhi (Nov 1, 2011)

romelman said:


> how often should a bike be cleaned and re-lubed?


You mean the chain? It depends on your conditions - how dirty your chain gets on a ride. Opinions vary, but every 100 miles or so seems to suit the majority.

I'm pretty anal about my drive line so I clean/lube more frequently.


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## GA1911 (May 4, 2010)

My chain cleaning depends on how I wash the bike. If I am doing a quick clean up, I use Windex (titanium frame) and soak a rag with it then spin the chain through the rag. If doing a serious clean like after riding in the rain, the chain gets washed with the Dawn that I use to wash the bike. I have tried a bunch of different lubes, but now I mainly use Tri-Flow. Just drip on chain, let it soak in, and run chain through dry rag until most of it comes off. This method allows me to run a chain for about 4000-5000 miles, so works OK.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Chain cleaning machines are not garbage, they work great as long as you get a good one. The ones made by Park and FinishLine are the best. In fact I think people over clean their chains, and get oil out of areas that you can't get new oil back into well enough. You do need to use a cassette cleaning tool, I got one from Walmart for $4 and it looks just like the $7 Park one.

Lately I've been trying something different when it comes to cleaning my chain. I fill my machine with WD40 and clean the chain then wipe it down and let it dry for about 24 hours, then apply FinishLine Teflon Dry and let that dry for at least 8 hours. I'm going to try this and see how one of my bikes chains like it, if it even works the same as using solvent I'll go with the WD40 because it's cheap; but if doesn't work at all as well as I think it will then I'll go back to using solvent. But WD40 is not a good lube, but I'm not using for that purpose.

Those lube and clean lubes don't do either well. I like FinishLine Teflon Dry, it lasts about 250 miles between cleanings, it can last longer but I tend to want it cleaned by then, of course I wipe my chain down after every ride. Any teflon based lube will work great, I think the FinishLine is on the upper end of the Teflon lubes but I have no proof that it's better then good old cheap TriFlow.


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## RayfromTX (May 18, 2011)

I just rode without maintenance for the first 700 miles on my current dura ace chain other than thorough wipe downs. The original lube is superior to anything I've seen. At 700 miles the chain saw it's first rain so I had to do a clean and lube but I would have at that mileage anyway.

My method is to turn it slowly backwards while dripping triflow on it until it is dripping off. Wipe it down and repeat the wetting process. Then I wipe it down very very thoroughly until it is dry to the touch on the outside. I then clean all the sprockets with a rag including between them. The hem of a towel works pretty well for this. I then wipe down the chain once more and I'm done.

My current chain has 4,300 miles on it and it measures at about 50% used up. I weigh about 180 lbs and live in the hills where hard climbing is the norm and shifting while in the climb is commonplace. I will stay with this method. I clean about every 300-400 miles or anytime my chain sees water.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

RayfromTX said:


> My current chain has 4,300 miles on it and it measures at about 50% used up. I weigh about 180 lbs and live in the hills where hard climbing is the norm and shifting while in the climb is commonplace. I will stay with this method. I clean about every 300-400 miles or anytime my chain sees water.


People won't believe the mileage your getting because most bike owners only get about 3500 miles out a chain...but your chain mileage figures are similar to mine as well. In fact I've been averaging about 13,000 miles, so it can be done if the chain is properly cared for. By the way, when I tried using wax based formulas, my chains only lasted about 5,000 miles...far less then teflon based lubes.


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## Firelyle (May 3, 2012)

Special Eyes said:


> Boy are you wrong. I use the Park machine and it works great.


:thumbsup: +1


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## giosblue (Aug 2, 2009)

IMO all this "teflon" as lubricant or lubricant additive is just marketing BS.

Totally useless for a bike chain and any other application where is is added to oil..


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## eljimberino (Nov 29, 2011)

So on the one hand the chain cleaning machines do not do a good enough job, and then on the other hand clean too much lube out between the links. 

I use the machine about once every 1000km. Lube x 2. Rag and lube every two rides between. 

If I switch between rain and dry lube, I use the machine. 

Chains are cheap. Chainrings and cassettes are not.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

giosblue said:


> IMO all this "teflon" as lubricant or lubricant additive is just marketing BS.
> 
> Totally useless for a bike chain and any other application where is is added to oil..


I'm in agreement ... the temperatures, forces, and speeds are so low and benign on a bike, compared to an auto engine. 

Any decent petroleum-based oil of appropriate viscosity (optionally diluted with solvent of your choice) will work fine on a chain. Special circumstances (eg, dusty MTB) may dictate a "dry" or "wax" lube, but for general use those aren't as good as ordinary oil, or an oil mixture.


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## supraholic (Oct 10, 2010)

If you have a carbon frame, don't clean with harsh chemicals. Even the so called mild degreasers leave residue that will build up over time.

Those self contain chain cleaners does not get everything out.

If you can afford to buy a new chain, get a SRAM chain and instead of using their master link, use a product called Conex. I might have spelled it wrong but it will let you remove the chain like a pit crew in F1. No need for chain tool.

I've been doing this and it will double the life of your chain! Take it off and use an old tooth brush with a real degreaser. Those bearings accumulates a lot of grit inside and needs to be rinsed well before applying lube. It is also easier putting lube on the bearings when it's off the bike.

A clean chain is only better when the cassette and front chain ring is also clean. Hence, the reason taking off the chain.


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## supraholic (Oct 10, 2010)

tihsepa said:


> This is the only way to do it right.
> 
> The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System


For that price and time, I might as well buy a new chain.

Does the kit include the Clean Room
Outfit, Gas Mask and gloves?


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

supraholic said:


> Those self contain chain cleaners does not get everything out.
> 
> IfI've been doing this and it will double the life of your chain! Take it off and use an old tooth brush with a real degreaser. Those bearings accumulates a lot of grit inside and needs to be rinsed well before applying lube. It is also easier putting lube on the bearings when it's off the bike.
> 
> A clean chain is only better when the cassette and front chain ring is also clean. Hence, the reason taking off the chain.


This is the way I use to clean my chains, since I went to the chain cleaning machine I've noticed no difference what so ever in my average chain life.


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