# About to purchase a Specialized Secteur Elite Comp



## hasi4x (Dec 10, 2010)

Hey everyone! I am about to purchase my first road bike and I was wondering if I could get some insight on whether I am making the right decision. The bike that I put a $100 deposit on is the 2010 Specialized Secteur Elite Compact (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45852&eid=4352&menuItemId=0). This was my first time ever riding a road bike and I couldn't believe how fast and comfortable the ride was. Everything about the bike seems just about perfect to me, but it is quite expensive. The deal the local bike shop is giving me is $1200 for this 2010 model and it is marked down from $1349. Their 2011 Specialized Elite Compact (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=52883&eid=6064&menuItemId=14881&gold_ses=) is $1200 as well, but I noticed it is now a 9 speed cassette and I do enjoy the 10 speed. 

I couldn't find too many reviews online, so I can't really tell how good the bike really is. This will be the first $1000+ bicycle that I purchase so I want to make sure I am getting the most for my dollar. Thanks guys!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

hasi4x said:


> Hey everyone! I am about to purchase my first road bike and I was wondering if I could get some insight on whether I am making the right decision. The bike that I put a $100 deposit on is the 2010 Specialized Secteur Elite Compact (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45852&eid=4352&menuItemId=0). This was my first time ever riding a road bike and *I couldn't believe how fast and comfortable the ride was. Everything about the bike seems just about perfect to me*, but it is quite expensive. The deal the local bike shop is giving me is $1200 for this 2010 model and it is marked down from $1349. Their 2011 Specialized Elite Compact (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=52883&eid=6064&menuItemId=14881&gold_ses=) is $1200 as well, but I noticed it is now a 9 speed cassette and I do enjoy the 10 speed.
> 
> *I couldn't find too many reviews online*, so I can't really tell how good the bike really is. This will be the first $1000+ bicycle that I purchase so I want to make sure I am getting the most for my dollar. Thanks guys!


IMO there are two main factors to choosing a bike. Intended purposes and fit. If the bike suites your purpose and fits well, it's likely to be a good choice for you. Of course, it helps if you _like_ it, and the bolded statements seem to say you do.  

As far as quality and warranty, Specialized is among the best, but because this is your first road bike you'll need the support of your LBS, so choosing one you like and have confidence in is important. If you're still feeling uncertain about the purchase, visit some other shops and test ride similar bikes like the Giant Defy and Cannondale Synapse (among others) and go from there. 

Regarding reviews, the Secteur is relatively new to Spec's lineup, so there's not a lot of info out there about it, but if you go to the Specialized manufacturers forum and search on Secteur, several threads will come up. Sift through them keying in on the word Secteur. I saw at least 5.

Lastly, I agree that the 2010 model has better componentry. $1,200 for a 105 equipped bike like the Secteur is a good deal, IMO.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*2011 Secteur Elite Compact.*



hasi4x said:


> but I noticed it is now a 9 speed cassette and I do enjoy the 10 speed.


Hmm. Under "Features", they claim you get 105 10-speed STI brake/shift levers, but under "Technical Specifications," you get Tiagra STI shifters and a 9-speed cassette. Something's not right, or I'm missing something (entirely possible).


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

wim said:


> Hmm. Under "Features", they claim you get 105 10-speed STI brake/shift levers, but under "Technical Specifications," you get Tiagra STI shifters and a 9-speed cassette. Something's not right, or I'm missing something (entirely possible).


Good catch, wim. If you go back to the webpage and click on the bike, you can then zoom in on the components. All look to be Tiagra to me, but a call to the LBS or email to Spec should definitively answer the question.


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## hasi4x (Dec 10, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> IMO there are two main factors to choosing a bike. Intended purposes and fit. If the bike suites your purpose and fits well, it's likely to be a good choice for you. Of course, it helps if you _like_ it, and the bolded statements seem to say you do.
> 
> As far as quality and warranty, Specialized is among the best, but because this is your first road bike you'll need the support of your LBS, so choosing one you like and have confidence in is important. If you're still feeling uncertain about the purchase, visit some other shops and test ride similar bikes like the Giant Defy and Cannondale Synapse (among others) and go from there.
> 
> ...


Thanks PJ! I really do want to check out other bikes. I think I might do so today to get a feel for what else is offered. The LBS near my college in San Diego sells Specialized bicycles only and they have amazing customer service in my opinion! I purchased my mountain bike over the summer with them and they were extremely helpful. 

In reference to fit is really important, I am about 5'9 in height and they told me I am in between a 54cm bike and a 56cm bike. They said that a 56cm seems to fit me better, but they only have one 54cm. I don't know if that's what you mean by fit, but would it be fine to go for a 54cm because I could elongate my legs perfectly fine and the seat could still go much higher.

I noticed the specialized website was really inaccurate about the 2011 too wim! I can easily say the 105 Shifters and Derailleur were my favorite from the Apex and Sora one's I tried. My LBS also told me a 10speed would be more advantageous when it comes to future upgrades as well. I don't exactly know what the Tiagra shifters are like though. I looked at bike reviews and they say the 2011 Specialized Secteur Elite Compact has this:

Front Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tiagra
Shift Levers: Shimano Tiagra STI
Cassette: Shimano HG-50, 9-speed, 12-25t
Chain: KMC X9
Crankset: Shimano Tiagra
Chainrings: 50 x 34T


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

that's not a great price on that 2010, it's easily $100 too high

unless they're giving you some great service/fitting/discounts on other things, you're not getting a good price


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## hasi4x (Dec 10, 2010)

I feel like I put myself in a bad position to bargain roscoe. My Specialized Hardrock was stolen so I had them put in an order for a 2010 Rockhopper because it was at a bargain price. Then I realized that what I really wanted to do is road biking, so I rode the Specteur Elite Comp and fell in love. I guess I am somewhat gracious they are allowing me to transfer my deposit on the rockhopper to this, but I don't know how else to negotiate for more.


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## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

deposits are generally refundable, if they've brought a special order in for you and then you cancelled that order then I certainly think you at least owe them the sale 

but that's if they give you the bike at a reasonable price, it may seem silly to argue over $100, but that bike's already last year's model. (the closest equivalent 2011 secteur apex should go for $1250ish) apex vs 105 is generally just down to personal preference but most would say quality and weight between the two components will be pretty close 

it just comes down to if you think a $50 discount is enough to make you pick the 2010 over the 2011 (although maybe if you don't like sram shifting that makes the predicament easier) 

I'd express your concerns about the price on the 2010 being too high, and inquire about getting your deposit back, you may be surprised how that opens up negotiation room for you.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

hasi4x said:


> I feel like I put myself in a bad position to bargain roscoe. My Specialized Hardrock was stolen so I had them put in an order for a 2010 Rockhopper because it was at a bargain price. Then I realized that what I really wanted to do is road biking, so I rode the Specteur Elite Comp and fell in love. I guess I am somewhat gracious they are allowing me to transfer my deposit on the rockhopper to this, but I don't know how else to negotiate for more.


Before fretting over bargaining for a lower price, I suggest getting a clarification on the LBS's refund policies. In my area, they vary from a full refund within 30 days (even on special orders) to a refund IF the bike/ frameset you ordered sells. Till then the deposit is held or can be put towards a new bike.

This also complicates your situation if you branch out to look at other brands, which brings me back to your need to get a clarification on the LBS's policies.

FWIW, all things considered (namely, your history with this shop) I'd lean towards accepting their price on the Secteur, IF that's ultimately what you choose.

Regarding your previous comments re: fit, if your LBS is reputable and the fitter suggests a 56cm, then trust in their judgement. Sizing isn't considered 'right' just because the seat post moves high enough, and actually reach, drop and standover considerations are more important. When sized correctly, a riders saddle height _will_ be accommodated.


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## Jawchops (Aug 20, 2010)

Regarding the bike itself, I test rode that exact one - a 2010 - last week and really liked it. The upright geometry makes it a very comfortable ride, and the 105 shifters were super smooth and quick.

Not sure if you need to know this, but the LBS was marking it down to $1000, from $12-something. I can send a link if your LBS likes to beat prices...


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

First off, I think the 2010 Secteur Elite Compact is a heck of a package, and a great ride for a new roadie. It really is a flexible platform for all sorts of riding, from commuting to distance riding to introductory racing. Certainly a ride you can grow with.

As for the pricing, it doesn't hurt to ask. Some shops can handle deeper discounts than others, which is part of the reason Specialized doesn't allow online sales. The markup on most bikes isn't as high as it is on soft goods, so they may have a bottom line dictated by their operating costs. Some shops offer more in the way of fitting than others, which is included in the price. Not all shops provide the same service.


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## TreeKiller (Sep 3, 2007)

I agree with a few of the other folks who've posted. Tell them you'll take it, but only at $1,150 out the door tax included. I purchased basically the same bike (2010 Specialized Allez Elite) for $1,100 out the door a few months ago.

BTW, the Secteur is a heck of a bike and I was torn between the Allez, Secteur,and Cannondale Synapse. All of which were the 105 flavor. I ended up getting the Allez because I was coming off of an older Trek that had a more aggressive geometry and the Allez felt more "normal" to me, but in your shoes, I'd be all over the Secteur. 

Good luck and let us know who it works out.


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## hasi4x (Dec 10, 2010)

Ok guys! I decided to release my order on the 2010 Specialized Secteur Elite Comp just because it seemed like the owner wasn't ever planning on budging on making a deal. He is still letting me use my $100 deposit to buy the Kryptonite New York Lock I wanted to protect my bike with so I am happy with that. I think I am going to go with the deal that another LBS close to where I live is giving me (the former LBS I spoke of was near my college campus): A 2011 Trek 2.1 in Red/Black for $1200 with a couple extra perks like water bottle cages. I believe this should be a good deal because I like the lifetime "bring in your bike for maintenance for free" amenity they offer. I hope I am making the right decision in changing to this bike because they seem relatively similar, but I think the Trek is lighter because of its amazing frame. 

Treekiller your statement about getting your bike for $1100 w/ taxes included was what really tipped me into deciding not to go with the bike. The owner told me that a complimentary fitting and maintenance is the reason why he couldn't help me out, but I received a free fitting from the LBS I'm getting my Trek from for just looking around so I don't understand that. 

1 more question before I put myself into another sticky situation: *Would this Trek 2.1 be better bargain and in a sense better than a lower end Trek Madone 4.5? Also what can I expect in terms of resale values for both bikes?* I am asking this because if I really do get into road biking and I want to move into a Carbon Fiber model as soon as I realize this is what I want to do for the rest of my life as a hobby. The store owner told me that the Trek 2.1's aluminum frame is much better than the lower end Trek Madone carbon fiber frames because of technological advances. Would it be worth it to go well over my supposed to be $1000 budget to get a $2000 bike because that way I wont really need to buy a new bike when I am ready, rather I can just upgrade the Madone.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

IMHO, buying a bike with a fancy frame and anything less than 105 10 speed components all around is buying a poor value. Reason being that 105 is very compatible with the Ultegra and Dura-ace parts and built well. The aluminum frame with 105 components is a really good price point for a versatile, durable, high performance bike.

I have the 2010 2.1 and while I won't say it's the greatest bike out there, I will say it's as good as any other new bike in that price range give or take $100. If the Trek shop is easier to work with buy a Trek. No doubt the aluminum frame is tough and reliable where carbon frames do have minor concerns for durability and quiet. But again IMHO the extra money spent for carbon frame means much less than good clothing, shoes, saddle, etc. I spent around $1250 for my bike and quickly double that on the accessories. And of each extra dollar I spent the accessories were higher value than the extra dollars ontop of the bike price.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

> _I believe this should be a good deal because I like the lifetime "bring in your bike for maintenance for free" amenity they offer._


The lifetime "bring in your bike for maintenance for free" amenity sounds good. But keep in mind that it's partly designed to bring people into the shop and tie them to it. And unfortunately, it's also used sometimes to sell parts and services that are not needed. Say you bring your bike in for the "free maintenance" and are told that you need a new chain and that a new chain requires a new cassette. If you don't know anything about bike maintenance, you might have a difficult time rejecting that repair offer . And once you know how to maintain your bike, you don't need (and might not even want) "free maintenance." Not saying the Trek shop is working that scheme—just be aware that it exists.

As an aside: Not sure it's a good thing to already be thinking of "moving into carbon fiber" and resale value. The other part of cycling is the rider's body, and that's what you should concentrate on once you get this bike buying process over and done with. Let the carbon and the resale fall into place on their own and whenever.

/w


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## TreeKiller (Sep 3, 2007)

I looked at the 2.1 (I was riding an older version of it before) and honestly thought it felt too stiff and harsh. IMHO, I wouldn't let $100 push me towards a bike I didn't like as much, but I would still lay it out, nicely, the LBS owner. Just tell him where you are and that you torn and if he could get them to the same price you'd be happy. 

The 2.1 is a much different bike than the Secteur and I would certainly encourage you to learn towards the Secteur, but as dgeesaman said, it's a good bike. As far as carbon is concerned, I could tell a difference, but to me it wasn't enough to justify the cost. I'm also a bigger guy (~200 lbs), an ex-motocross & Mtb racer. I was concerned that my "graceful" bunnyhopping of speed bumps and potholes would be an issue with carbon


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## dysfunction (Apr 2, 2010)

TreeKiller said:


> I'm also a bigger guy (~200 lbs), an ex-motocross & Mtb racer. I was concerned that my "graceful" bunnyhopping of speed bumps and potholes would be an issue with carbon


Mine seems to put up with it :blush2:


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

TreeKiller said:


> I looked at the 2.1 (I was riding an older version of it before) and honestly thought it felt too stiff and harsh. IMHO,* I wouldn't let $100 push me towards a bike I didn't like as much*, but I would still lay it out, nicely, the LBS owner. Just tell him where you are and that you torn and if he could get them to the same price you'd be happy.
> 
> *The 2.1 is a much different bike than the Secteur and I would certainly encourage you to learn towards the Secteur*, but as dgeesaman said, it's a good bike. *As far as carbon is concerned, I could tell a difference*, but to me it wasn't enough to justify the cost. I'm also a bigger guy (~200 lbs), an ex-motocross & Mtb racer. I was concerned that my "graceful" bunnyhopping of speed bumps and potholes would be an issue with carbon


Some good points being made here, IMO.

OP: I think you're placing too great an importance on the $100 and the LBS's (seeming) unwillingess to deal. Walking away from a bike you prefer (if you do, in fact, prefer the Secteur) is IMO running counter to your best interests. 

Also, just because bike shop B says a fitting is 'included in the price', doesn't mean that's a better deal. The first bike shop may offer a better fitting, but without knowing the details, that's a guess.

Lastly, I disagree with the Trek dealer re: CF versus alu. Aluminum bikes certainly have their place and best uses, and from everything I've read the 2.1 is a nice bike, but all else being equal, IME a well designed CF bike is going to trump the alu bike in ride quality. I'm not saying you should opt for one, I'm simply offering my experiences/ opinions. 

I suggest making this decision based solely on the bike you prefer. In a years time you'll forget what you paid for either, but will live with your choice on every ride.


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## hasi4x (Dec 10, 2010)

Thank you so much for all the help guys! I ended up pulling the trigger today because my girlfriend's brother took me to his friend's bike shop. He gave me a deal that seemed very difficult to pass up, even though it was well past what I expected to spend on a bicycle considering how little I know about what I'm venturing into. I ended up getting a *2010 Trek Madone 4.5* for $1800 out the door for a brand new bike that I was the first to ever ride. I know that more expensive bikes have quite a large margin for profit so I don't if I hassled enough, but that literally took the bike from $2100 to about $1640 based on the tax rate here. Then he gave me $150 accessories for $100 and made it $1900 even. I am extremely happy with the bike and love everything about it from the shifters all the way to the Red/Black/White color scheme.

I know this entire time I was talking about low-$1000 aluminum bikes and all of a sudden I purchase something slightly different, but I feel deep inside I made the right decision. Even my parents were amazed by the bike (even though I told them it cost $400, because otherwise they would FREAK OUT lol!). I guess in the end all that matters is that I am happy with the bike and I just hope nothing goes wrong! I am auditing an Exercise Physiology class at our Med School next quarter so hopefully I will learn quite a bit that I can apply towards my new hobby and maybe even teach you guys some stuff .



Also I had a few questions to ask if you guys don't mind:
1) *What are you views on ever locking the bike in a public for brief moments such as 10-20 minutes?* I reside in relatively well-off places (La Jolla and Simi Valley) and I am purchasing an expensive lock... which leads me to my next question
2) *How would you recommend I lock this bike if it is absolutely necessary that I need to? Lock? Locking practices and preferences like attachment? and where to keep it when riding the bike?* The bike shop where I put my $100 deposit has the Kryptonite New York and also another Orange Kryptonite with a huge chain, but I am open to just taking back my deposit and buying the lock online.
3) *Best beginner road biking references? Websites? Books?* So far I have a couple of forums and the Sheldon Brown website. 
4) *What are your Personal and general fitness tips and nutrition for riding? Websites/Books?* I couldn't believe how out of shape I felt when I tried going up a really steep hill near my house. *Are hills always going to be hard or are you guys pretty fit and capable now to handle them with ease?*
5) *What are some ritual routines that I am going to need to do to take care of this bike?* I hope its not too unreasonable for me to want it to last a lifetime. I have seen so many people keep bikes for 30 years+ at this point that it seems possible.
6) *Is riding over bumps (tiny pot holes, uneven concrete, speed bumps) that sometimes I don't pay enough attention going to ruin my bike? * I went over a couple of them today and I just want to make sure because even though I try to avoid them... it happens!
7) *General and Personal Upgrading order?* I know everyone recommends something different and it what goes for one person may be different for another, but I noticed almost everyone changes the seat on this bike as the first thing they do. I'm sure its not the best seat in the world, but I suppose I just need to sit on a high-end seat to see the difference because it seems fine for now.
8) *Testicular trauma?* Just curious how serious it is and how to prevent/alleviate it.



Sorry for asking so many questions and thanks again guys for everything!


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Short answers based on my personal experiences and preferences:
1) Always have your bike in a place where you don't need a lock.
2) If you follow 1) above, n/a 
3) Experienced riders riding with you, followed by experienced riders talking on sites like this. 
4) Hills are always hard. If you find them easy, you're going too slow.
5) Keep it lubed, clean and adjusted. 
6) Carbon is incredibly strong. It's weakness is its sensitivity to something external hitting or scraping it, or clamping it with too much force.
7) Ride it a while before "upgrading." Saddles are personal, with price no certain predictor of comfort. 
8) There could be some chafing and, after many years of riding, leukoderma (all harmless).

/w


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

The challenge with locking a bike like this is 1) everything but the frame can be easily removed and still have cash value 2) the lock and what you lock it against can bang up that fine carbon frame 3) someone who attempts to steal the whole bike may damage it significantly. I vote for keeping it entirely within a locked confines.

Thieves can travel too.


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

Congrats on the Madone 4.5. I really liked a lot of the features it had, like the tapered headset and DuoTrap compatibility. Really just a nice package- especially at that price.

For commuting, I carry a lock, but I rarely use it since I park my bike in a secure facility. I never carry a lock when I'm just out riding, because I'm never out of arms reach of my bike. I carry what I need in terms of food and water so I can avoid making stops as much as possible.

The best advice I can give you is to find a club in your area and do some group rides. That way you can meet some good people, take advantage of the local knowledge, learn some good routes, and maybe pick up some maintenance advice.

As far as the saddle goes, have your Trek dealer measure your sitbones. Bontrager sells various width saddles to match that width. Your weight should be on your sit bones, not your naughty bits. You may be a bit sore initially around the sit bones, but not the soft tissue. I have the Bontrager inForm R/RL/RXL saddles, and they work well for me, as do the Specialized Toupe and Romin saddles.


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## hontors (Oct 4, 2009)

I have a 2010 Sectuer Elite Comp....and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT!!!!!!!

Great endurance bike....very comfortable. Yes, the 2010 is all 105 components.

It was months of research for me, I've owned it since last March. I did a 192 mile charity ride on it and felt fantastic at the end. The bike is flawless.


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