# Building my first single speed (part list)



## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

So I've been lurking for awhile and now I need some advice part wise so here's my list
I'll post links for parts you may not recognize

Parts I already own
Coppi City Master frame http://www.matuzmaster.hu/en/vintage-frames/#fausto-coppi (you will need to scroll down a bit)

White velocity deep v's

Parts I'm considering
Milwaukee hubs http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6509

Nitto threaded stem (recommend me one there seem to be alot of options)

Nitto bullhorns

Sugino RD 1/8" cranks

Tektro Inverse brake levers

Tektro calipers 

Velo orange alloy headset

Parts I still need to think about
BB I need to determine the chain line and it must be Italian threaded

seatpost I'm thinking possibly a miche supertype

Saddle I use the specialized toupe but I need one that will work for sans chamois riding

Freewheel probably shimano but with enough convincing I could go for a white industries

Thanks advance and responses are welcome
Budget wise I'm in highschool and I make ok money but don't go recommending phil wood hubs and a BB \


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## blakcloud (Apr 13, 2006)

You seem to have it all covered. I would just make sure that all your parts, brakes, seat post stem etc. are all silver to match the hubs. And of course that the rims have machined side walls for the brakes. 

As for White Industries freewheel, I say definitely buy one but not yet. Put on an inexpensive freewheel like the Shimano, figure out if you like the gearing and when the Shimano dies, then replace it. 

Don't forget to post a photo when it is complete. Sounds like it will be really nice.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Sounds like a cool build. For other stems, I like 3T, and Cinelli has some really nice looking ones as well. Also, to pass along, our patron Dave Hickey posted a while back about a Tange steel headset. It's got a great finish, nice old school design, and cost around $30.

Remember that your chainline is going to be determined by both your rear hub and what your cranks are capable of. Not every crank can be fully seated with a 103mm bottom bracket (for example). On that subject, look around and make sure you can find a bottom bracket with JIS square tapers and Italian threads before buying your cranks. Depending upon what spindle length you need, that may turn out to be a wanky combination that no one but Phil Wood will supply. 

Good luck on your build! If you encounter problems there are plenty of people here on RBR who are happy to help, but will require payment in the form of pictures when it's finished.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

Sorry long day 

Blakcloud I'm definitely making sure all the components are silver and thanks for the advice on the freewheel

Urban thanks for the other stem options, I'll definitely look into the Tange, and thanks for the advice on the bottom bracket

I'll make sure to post pictures though it may not be finished for quite awhile


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## onlineflyer (Aug 8, 2005)

Great looking frame. Did you purchase it from the site in Hungary? If yes, what was your buying experience?


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

The experience was very good you E-mail the site with a picture of the product and they reply with the price and available sizes if applicable then you just pay by paypal
the shipping is obviously expensive and it takes awhile but that can't really be helped


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

I'm going to put an order in soon any other recommendations?


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Lasers. Everything is better with lasers.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

Hit me up with a link for some and I'll fit em in the budget

On a more serious note which component will give me the most bang for my buck better hubs? better bottom bracket? something else?


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## blakcloud (Apr 13, 2006)

tallnotsmall said:


> Hit me up with a link for some and I'll fit em in the budget
> 
> On a more serious note which component will give me the most bang for my buck better hubs? better bottom bracket? something else?


For me, wheels are the best bang for the buck. Break it down even further and I would say rims.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

The rims have already been purchased, velocity deep v's, so would nicer hubs be my best investment?


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

I think the best value are formula hubs. The best hubs IMO are phil wood.


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## BryanSayer (Sep 22, 2009)

Get a Phil Wood bottom bracket and you can get any threads you need.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

For the budget conscious Velocity, Formula, or IRO hubs are all good stuff. Cartridge bearings for easy maintenance (i.e. leave 'em alone). My thought is to spend decent money on everything with bearings rather than drop major coin on one piece and let everything else suffer. Chances are you won't be happy with the performance of a $12 bottom bracket even if you spend $80 on your hubs. Riding a fixie chances are good that the part you'll notice the most will be the worst, rather than the best. Since you aren't going to be coasting every part of your drive train is engaged at all times, and you're basically tied directly to every part of it. As such, you'll be getting a lot of feedback through your feet and legs as to what's going on. For me that's the main appeal of riding fixed. In practical terms that pushed me to buy good wheels and a good bottom bracket instead of blending bling and budget.

After a quick look it seems that a new pair of Formula hubs will run you about the same as a pair of Miche hubs. Both look to be in the $80 - $90 range. Unfortunately the best bang for your buck will usually be to buy a complete wheel set, but since you already have your rims that's out the window. Buying last year's wheels can save some serious scratch if you shop in the late fall or early winter.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

thanks for the feed back I figure I'll go with the phil wood bottom bracket because italian threaded bottom brackets are looking pretty rare I'm still on the fence about the phil wood hubs though


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

If you haven't ordered the Phil yet, check here first. May save you a bundle:

Velo-Orange.

I didn't realize they did an Italian thread bb with JIS square tapers.


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## innergel (Jun 14, 2002)

Shimano still makes a nice square tapered Italian BB. UN-54

Jenson has them for $20 http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BB309F06-Shimano+Un54+Bottom+Bracket.aspx

I've got the on two bikes and they are plenty good. There is another model, UN72, that may be out of production. That's an upgraded model so if you can find one, it might be worth checking out.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

Could I put a freewheel on a fix/fix formula hub?


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

tallnotsmall said:


> Could I put a freewheel on a fix/fix formula hub?



Sure you can...there are plenty of threads


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

sweet I'll put in an order tomorrow and I can start making some progress on this project


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

So I'm going to get formula hubs and a sugino crankset in the description of the cranks it says use 103mm bb for a 45mm chainline. Can I go ahead and purchase a 103mm bb?


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

So many questions. Any chance someone has built a wheel with velocity deep v's and formula hubs or knows the dimensions of formula hubs so I can calculate the spoke length?


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

tallnotsmall said:


> So many questions. Any chance someone has built a wheel with velocity deep v's and formula hubs or knows the dimensions of formula hubs so I can calculate the spoke length?


We've got a "buttload" of wheelsets with Formula hubs laced to Velocity Deep V's. When I get in the shop tomorrow I'll measure the spokes and let you know.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

I could be wrong, but I think the typical chainline for Velocity hubs is 42, not 45. You may have to set your hub off center and do a little funny dishing to the wheel to get it to mate up to your cranks. That said, if you already have the cranks you may want to try eye-balling them to see if they'll clear your chainstays. You might be fine, but you might not be. If you don't have the cranks you can still take some measurements off the frame to figure it out. You would need to know is the radius of the chainring. Measure that straight back along the chainstay from the center of the bottom bracket shell. Mark the chainstay with some chalk or a bit of masking tape. Repeat on opposite side. Then check the outside to outside measurement of the chainstays at that point. Divide by 2. If that number is larger than your chainline measurement, you're going to have trouble.

Chainline = A
Chainstay Outside to Outside = B

(B/2) < A = party on
(B/2) > A = danger Will Robinson


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

I'm not sure if you mis-typed or read something wrong but I'm using formula hubs and velocity rims


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

That would be me switching the brands in my head. The numbers are correct, the brand name is not. Formula flip/flop hubs typically have a chainline of 42.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

Oh ok is a 3mm difference detrimental?


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

no, imo - if you use a phil wood bb it will adjust side to side that much if it's a problem. I am using formula hubs (130mm) with a sugino RD crank and it's just fine.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

ok thanks


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

hey Richard did you measure those spokes?


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

hey everyone its been awhile, but I finally scraped together the money and the last parts have been ordered pics should be up in the next couple weeks


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Looking forward to those pics.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

so my bb is currently in transit and I'm wondering, do I need to bring my bike to the lbs to have them install it or can I just screw it in?


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## blakcloud (Apr 13, 2006)

If it is the Phil Wood bottom bracket, you need their bottom bracket tool like this one.
http://www.philwood.com/products/tools/bbtool.php

Here is the link to the instructions.
http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/crankbearinginstallationguide.pdf


if you want to do it yourself you will have to order the bottom bracket tool.


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

its the velo orange italian threaded. it says the shimano installation tool so i guess i cant just go at it with my hands. my latest order of parts came in i should have some pics to put up soon


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## tallnotsmall (May 21, 2009)

Update: I did a bunch of work today brakes installed, cables cut, I wrestled the bb in with my hands and some needle nose pliers, cranks installed, front wheel installed.
Best part is the frame does not fit 28s like I was told so I have about an eighth of a millimeter of clearance on either side of the tire and its currently rubbing a lot


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