# Quickly dirty chain..



## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

A week ago I cleaned the chain again. It got shinny and clean. Have tried different oils and wipe the chain off after lubing it so it would not caught to much dirt. And get dirty. 
After commuting ONLY 3 days on road bike (total 7.5h) then the chain looks like this:








I am new to biking. Is this normal or is there any "magic" oil that do not pick up dirt? Or I just to get used to clean and reoil the chain every week!?


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

CaptainSlow said:


> A week ago I cleaned the chain again. It got shinny and clean. Have tried different oils and wipe the chain off after lubing it so it would not caught to much dirt. And get dirty. After commuting ONLY 3 days on road bike (total 7.5h) then the chain looks like this:
> 
> I am new to biking. Is this normal or is there any "magic" oil that do not pick up dirt? Or I just to get used to clean and reoil the chain every week!?


Odds are you are not wiping the chain well enough, though this may be tied to how you are applying the lube. A good approach is a solvent based lube so that you can wipe it off easily and then when the solvent evaporates, the lube is on the inside parts of the chain, which is the only place it is needed.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS. 
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it , and no separate cleaning is ever required. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink/home brew is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.


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## Surestick Malone (Jan 11, 2003)

Kerry Irons said:


> No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink/home brew is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.


...and without delay, here's a different opinion!

You won't get a clean chain with a wet lube. A dry lube like White Lightning, Squirt, or paraffin wax (so basically a _real_ dry lube, not one that dries to a paste or claims to be dry but really stays wet inside the rollers) will leave a bright shiny chain, even on a mountain bike. Dry wax type lubes even had the lowest drag of any lubes on a recent test: 
Technical FAQ: More on lubricating chains with wax - VeloNews.com

The trade-offs are more frequent lubing (I get ~3 hours out of an application of Squirt, a bit less with White Lightning and a bit more with paraffin wax), poor performance in the rain, and you can't just lube and ride (you have to let them dry first so it's best to lube after a ride so it's ready for the next ride).

Like everything in life chain lubes are a trade-off. Pick the type that has the least down-sides for the riding you do.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

Thanks for the information. Now I have two things that I can try!


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

It looks pretty clean by my standards. I might wipe it a bit, and then I just wouldn't look at it so closely. If it's lubed adequately it's never going to stay looking clean enough to eat off of. It's machinery, not jewelry; at least, that's how I look at it.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

JCavilia said:


> It looks pretty clean by my standards. I might wipe it a bit, and then I just wouldn't look at it so closely. If it's lubed adequately it's never going to stay looking clean enough to eat off of. It's machinery, not jewelry; at least, that's how I look at it.


This is the right answer. Worry about how it works, not how it looks. Keeping your drive train clean will extend it's life, but you aren't eating off it. 

Slathering on a wet lube is going to attract dirt onto your drive train. 

Get a drip lube (I use Rock and Roll Gold) and drip one drop on each chain barrel (the round part between the plates). Let it sit for an hour or so and wipe it down. 

Wax lubes do not attract much dirt. However, they also don't last very long. I tried White Lightening once and concluded that it wasn't for me.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

the OP should start a new thread on what everyone thinks is the best chain lube.

sure it will provide some definitive answers.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

*Sv: Quickly dirty chain..*

Yes it is not THAT dirty. And dirt is normally. 
The issue is that I am surprised of the RATE that it got that dirty. 
From clean and wiped off after lubing and only 3 days later the state is like in pictures. 

If it was after a week that the chain look like the photos then I would not bother it is what I am expecting. 
But only 3 days is a silly rate..


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> But only 3 days is a silly rate..


Days don't really matter. You said 7.5 hours riding. Assuming 15 mph, that's well over 100 miles. Plenty of time to pick up a little dirt.

Again, it doesn't look bad to me. Some stuff on the outside. I'd give it a wipe, and ride on.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

*Sv: Quickly dirty chain..*



JCavilia said:


> Days don't really matter. You said 7.5 hours riding. Assuming 15 mph, that's well over 100 miles. Plenty of time to pick up a little dirt.
> 
> Again, it doesn't look bad to me. Some stuff on the outside. I'd give it a wipe, and ride on.


Ok then it is only I that need to get used to the rate.. 
Yes I manage to do 150km in those 7.5h.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

*Sv: Quickly dirty chain..*



Oxtox said:


> the OP should start a new thread on what everyone thinks is the best chain lube.
> 
> sure it will provide some definitive answers.


Haha I assume that you are joking  
Oil threads is like religious and everyone has it own believe. 
And the result is NOT defenetive.. 
I am pleased with the answers I have got now. 
Thanks.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

CaptainSlow said:


> Haha I assume that you are joking


That is an absolutely correct assumption.


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## weltyed (Feb 6, 2004)

my chains would give you a heart attack. i get shark bites just by looking at the chain.


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## rmsmith (Feb 15, 2007)

The front tire is continually spraying the chain with debris. After installing fenders with mud flaps I noticed my chain stayed clean much longer.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

rmsmith said:


> The front tire is continually spraying the chain with debris. After installing fenders with mud flaps I noticed my chain stayed clean much longer.


Aha another reason to use fenders


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

Surestick Malone said:


> ...and without delay, here's a different opinion!
> 
> You won't get a clean chain with a wet lube. A dry lube like White Lightning, Squirt, or paraffin wax (so basically a _real_ dry lube, not one that dries to a paste or claims to be dry but really stays wet inside the rollers) will leave a bright shiny chain, even on a mountain bike. Dry wax type lubes even had the lowest drag of any lubes on a recent test:
> Technical FAQ: More on lubricating chains with wax - VeloNews.com
> ...


Now I made a test. I cleaned the chain again and wanted to test if a wax based lubrication should pick up the same amount of dirt? 

After application I took off access with a cloth like I did before with the oil in the first post.

Then I road the exact distance with the wax as I did with the oil (commute*3times).

Here is the WAX images:






















The images say more then 1000 words..


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

CaptainSlow said:


> Now I made a test. I cleaned the chain again and wanted to test if a wax based lubrication should pick up the same amount of dirt?
> After application I took off access with a cloth like I did before with the oil in the first post.
> Then I road the exact distance with the wax as I did with the oil (commute*3times).
> The images say more then 1000 words..


You'll have to translate; they're not saying much to me. I don't see a huge difference, and you've said nothing about functional comparison, which is what matters more (IMHO).

The general rap on wax lubes is that they are indeed clean and quiet, but they don't last very long. So frequent reapplication is necessary, especially if wet conditions are encountered.

But you should do whatever works for you. As I said before, your "dirty" chain looks fine to me.


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## CaptainSlow (Jul 30, 2014)

JCavilia said:


> You'll have to translate; they're not saying much to me. I don't see a huge difference, and you've said nothing about functional comparison, which is what matters more (IMHO).
> 
> The general rap on wax lubes is that they are indeed clean and quiet, but they don't last very long. So frequent reapplication is necessary, especially if wet conditions are encountered.
> 
> But you should do whatever works for you. As I said before, your "dirty" chain looks fine to me.


Little unclear but the test with the oil is the image in the post no1. 

Then i did the exact distance an commute to and from my work 3 times. Same conditions and no rain of course. With the wax based lube the images are all in the later post no16.

In both of the lubes I only apply once the lube after the chain are degreased and dry.
This to keep the controllable factors the same, in the test..

Yes that is my same conclusion that wax based lubrication do NOT keep the chain more clean than the oil lube. I would say that wax lube are almost little bit dirtier. Defiantly not at all cleaner!

So for ME the common believe "that wax keep the chain cleaner than oil" is busted.

Because wax is thicker then oil the dirt built up differently than the oil. Looking at the cogs you see the buildup. (The same will happen with oil but only after a much longer distance)


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> Yes that is my same conclusion that wax based lubrication do NOT keep the chain more clean than the oil lube.


Ah, I see.

I don't know which wax-basaed lube you used, or how much you tried to wipe the excess off the outside. (lube on the outside of the chain does nothing functionally -- if you like clean, you wipe and wipe and wipe).

I hesitate to mention this since you seem just a little obsessed with a clean appearance, but the way to a really clean-looking chain is the old hot-wax method, which I'll admit I practiced for a few years. It is a huge bother to do, and it has to be done frequently, but the chain stays very clean, and runs very quiet and smooth - for 100 miles or so, less if it rains.

The method involves removing the chain from the bike, and soaking it in a pot of hot melted wax (what we call paraffin here in the U.S.). After it has sat and been agitated in the hot wax for a while, you extract it (carefully -- you can get badly burned), wipe the outside before the wax solidifies, then let it cool and re-install.

As I said, a huge bother, not worth it in my opinion. But if you really like clean . . .


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