# Smaller frame/longer stem or bigger frame/shorter stem?



## afterglow (Jul 11, 2008)

I've come across a great deal on a 52cm Fuji Roubaix Pro. I haven't been on a road bike in a while so I'm relying on Competitive Cyclist's fitting. They recommend a 52.7-53.2cm top tube and am 11.2-11.8cm stem for a total reach of 64.9-65.9cm. The Fuji has a tt of 53cm and a 10cm stem for a total reach of 63cm. Should I move on and get a larger frame (Fuji's 54cm has a 65cm total reach) or would it be okay to get the 52cm and perhaps get a longer stem (a 120 stem will give me 65cm reach)??

I actually went to the LBS that had the 52cm Fuji earlier today and had them set it up as best they can with the Competitive Cyclist specs. Standover height was fine and the numbers show I should have around 3cm clearance with the smaller frame. We had to move the seat back to get to 65cm total reach and with that adjustment it felt fine as well. Most of the front hub (I'd say 80-90%) was obscured by the bars when I was on the hoods. The seat to handlebar difference looked fine as well. 

Any bike other than the 52cm Fuji will either cost significantly more or will be a longer wait which is why I really, really want the Fuji to work for me.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

It sounds like you could go either way....One other factor to consider is bar height...The larger frame will likely have a taller headtube which will allow you to run the bars higher without a bunch of spacers.....If you like a more upright position, go with the 54cm..If you like "down and low" go with the 52cm.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

I'd say give it a try as is. There's a good chance it will work with minor adjustments (or maybe no adjustments), and if you decide you need a longer cockpit later it's a cheap and easy fix to change the stem. A stem 2 cm longer won't affect handling much. Those sizing formulas are just a starting point anyway. Everybody's riding style, flexibility, etc. is different.

I'd caution against moving the seat back to get your target reach. I think it's better to position the saddle for the right relationship with the cranks ("knee over pedal spindle" is the traditional starting point), and then, if necessary, adjust reach by stem, bar angle, lever placement, even different bar. The mechanical relationship of leg to cranks is the most crucial part of fitting, IMO.

You said you tinkered with the fit and looked at it. Did you ride it? I'd say take a decent test ride. You might be fine.


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