# Retrofitting a B14 for Dura Ace Di2



## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

Hello all,

Starting the project tomorrow. Things to do:

1) Drill out top tube FD and RD holes in top tube.
2) Drill out glued in internal cable guides in top tube.
-They are glued to the inside of what looks to be about a 3/8" diameter 3/8" long collar.
- Plan is to start with a small bit and keep taking more off slowly.
3) Drill out cable stops where the cables come out of the frame to the FD and RD.
- This one worries me, because I cannot see into the frame to see when to stop. I'll just go slowly again. 
-Eventually this should free the internal cable guides to pull out through the head tube. 
- Another worry here is that the cable guides will get stuck inside the frame as if glued or something.
4) Drill out small hole in top tube/ seat tube junction.
- This is risky, but I'm going to keep it clean and just big enough for the wire to pass.
5) Drill hole in seat tube at top tube hole.
- Again, risky, but the weight is transferred to the frame at the clamp, and this won't effect the strength of the tube thanks to the divider felt put down the middle of the seat post.
6) Drill in the top of the seat tube.
- One is already there, it just needs to be enlarged about 2-mm. 

The derailleurs and rear cable harness come in tomorrow afternoon. The shifters and brake/shifters come in Friday, the battery and charger are shipped and set to come in next week, and the front tt wiring harness is backordered till the 17th. 

I'll keep updates coming with pictures.

Here's to hoping tomorrow is uneventful and doesn't turn into a very expensive day!

Nick


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## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

*Update!!!*

Today, I almost got everything done I wanted to. The only thing I didn't do yet was the top tube / seat tube hole and the seat post hole. 

I'm actually really happy with the results. 

One thing I am still trying to figure out is how to fish the cables through. Any Suggestions? I'm thinking about going to Lowes and getting some long pieces of tubing, sticking the connectors in the tubing, and taping them. Then pulling them through. 

I started small with all of the drill bits and went fast. If you don't the tubing will grab the bit. I can't remember what size bits did it. 

Also still trying to figure how on earth I'm going to fish the cables to the battery through the frame.

But other than that, the derailleurs came in today, the shifters and brake/shifters are to be here Friday, and I got an e-mail saying that the back order delay on the front wiring is longer than expected.


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## BoOst3d (Apr 21, 2012)

very nice. hopefully all the parts come soon


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## Superdave3T (May 11, 2009)

Nick09 said:


> Today, I almost got everything done I wanted to. The only thing I didn't do yet was the top tube / seat tube hole and the seat post hole.
> 
> I'm actually really happy with the results.
> 
> One thing I am still trying to figure out is how to fish the cables through. Any Suggestions?


Why did you re-run both holes all the way through? There is only one e-cable from the Junction A to the Junction B, you only needed one hole.

Running the wires through the frame is easy: Use a length of string and a vacuum. Hold the string in the hole you want to exit the wire from, and the vacuum where you want it to go in. Suck the string through, tie it to the Di2 wire and pull it back through.

Where are you mounting the battery? Are you drilling holes in the inside of the BB shell to run the R/D cable all the way through the chainstay?

-SD


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## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

SuperdaveFelt said:


> Why did you re-run both holes all the way through? There is only one e-cable from the Junction A to the Junction B, you only needed one hole.
> 
> Running the wires through the frame is easy: Use a length of string and a vacuum. Hold the string in the hole you want to exit the wire from, and the vacuum where you want it to go in. Suck the string through, tie it to the Di2 wire and pull it back through.
> 
> ...



I drilled out both holes because I need the exit hole of that route to route the RD cable. I probably will just silicon the other hole shut for now. The Di2 wire actually snaps quite nicely into part of the cable guides and I plan on dremeling the other part out, and using a dab of silicon to hold them. The photos shows my planned routing. The battery is under the saddle, and I don't want to put a hole in my BB, so I'm routing that wire back up through the head tube, down the top tube, and up the seat post. This is the hardest part of the project because I need to solder the wire, then feed it down the seat post where a hole will need to be lined up with another hole in the top tube. Your vacuum and string idea just might help me with this though. I also have a few other ideas that I've been thinking about over the past few days. Hopefully one of them will work.

EDIT: I just though of another idea. I could "glue" in internal seat post wire guiding, which would line the holes up. Then I could just feed the wires through.

EDIT 2: I tried to put the battery aligned with the same screws as water bottle mount, but the screws were too big. I wonder if I can dremel out the battery mount holes a little and mount it there to clean it up a bit...


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## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

Thanks! Yea, I do too. I just got a message saying that the front wire kit is back-ordered longer than expected, so that's a bummer. And the other shipment I ordered from TriSports.com has the brake/shifter levers on the packing list, but I got a message saying those were back-ordered, so it'll be interesting to see what comes in tomorrow afternoon.


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## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

*Battery day...*

Spent my free time today figuring out the battery. Rough day to say the least. 

I changed the battery position, I hope for the better, and routed the internal guides through the seat post. I plan on putting a bead of Silicon around the holes, then filling the front half of the seat post with G/Flex epoxy this weekend. 

On Monday I want to route all of the cables, mount the derailleurs, and finish putting the bike back together. Spoke to Tri Sports, and they told me the front wiring harness is in the warehouse to be inventoried, then sent out. So I'm hoping late next week, or early the week after. They couldn't give me an answer to the shifter brakes. All they said is it might be a while before those ship. Ordered the battery from Wiggle. They processed and dispatched the order early in the week, but there isn't a tracking number. Uh oh...

One of the pictures shows how much the the red wire (battery wire) would stick out of the head tube in the best case scenario. Kinda split at what to do here. cut it near the connector, feed it through and hope it is long enough to solder, or cut it, solder it, then feed it though. I imagine the latter of the two would be harder to pass through the wires because they wont be very stiff. On the other hand I could use Teflon wires, so they are stiffer. Ideas are welcome. 

Here are the pictures.


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## Nick09 (Aug 1, 2009)

Question... What do you all think would be safer, drilling a small hole in the end of the top tube, or drilling two small holes in the BB shell? Just sitting here wondering, "What if I cannot get the hole in the frame and the hole in the seat post to line up..." The top tube looks like it is capped by a layer of carbon that goes from the clamp to just past the junction of the top tube and seat tube.


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## AllaN.Felicano (Dec 2, 2012)

*Check out my Ultegra Di2 B14...*

My friend used the water bottle bracket, cut it, bent it to match the frame, and... Well, see for yourself, and lemme know what you think...?? Next step is to order the DA battery cover to really clean it up.
View attachment 272203
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## George Schlossnagle (Jul 9, 2013)

I just found this thread as I'm about to embark on a similar project (retrofit 2010 Felt B14 with Ultegra 6770 Di2). Am I seeing correctly that you used an external rear junction box or were you able to incorporate an internal one?


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## AllaN.Felicano (Dec 2, 2012)

You're right... It is external. Been that way for over 1000mi w/out any issues. Honestly haven't thought of an internal junction box, sorry, bro... Good luck w/ your project!!



George Schlossnagle said:


> I just found this thread as I'm about to embark on a similar project (retrofit 2010 Felt B14 with Ultegra 6770 Di2). Am I seeing correctly that you used an external rear junction box or were you able to incorporate an internal one?


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## gschlossnagle (Aug 18, 2010)

AllaN.Felicano said:


> You're right... It is external. Been that way for over 1000mi w/out any issues. Honestly haven't thought of an internal junction box, sorry, bro... Good luck w/ your project!!


Also, sorry to bother you again. I really like your battery location. How did you secure the mount down to the head tube there?


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## Superdave3T (May 11, 2009)

George Schlossnagle said:


> I just found this thread as I'm about to embark on a similar project (retrofit 2010 Felt B14 with Ultegra 6770 Di2). Am I seeing correctly that you used an external rear junction box or were you able to incorporate an internal one?


I've seen Junction A installed just inside the inlet ports on the top of the top tube with just the two e-wires emerging from the holes. You'll need to remove the fork to gain access. The junction B can be wired with JC41 and long wires and dropped into the bottom of the downtube. Exit holes can be made by enlarging the rivet holes after removing the braze on guides. Of course drilling holes in your frame will void your warranty so I'd advise using the stick-on solutions Shimano offers.

Post pix when you're done.

-SD


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