# Recommendations for single-speed parts?



## Babel Coglioni (Sep 3, 2012)

My 2007 Specialized Langster needs some new parts, some of which I have not replaced before.

Link to the original specs:

w w w . specialized . com /us/en/bikes/archive/2007/langster/langster#specs

(Due to my low post count, I am not allowed to post links: remove the spaces from the address.)

I would appreciate advice on choice of brand, model, and suppliers for any of the following parts:

*Wheelset*

The original Alex R500 rims are getting thin; I should probably replace them before they catastrophically onion-ring underneath me.

I'd like a wheelset that is at least as good as the original spec. I want quality components (long-lasting, not too heavy), but I also want to resist the urge to splurge... too much. My geared road bike has Campagnolo Eurus wheels. If Campy made a rear Eurus wheel with a single-speed hub, I'd be tempted.

(No, I do not want to use spacers to modify a standard freehub-equipped rear wheel for single-speed use. Call me fussy, but I want a rear wheel dished for single-speed use, with a freewheel.)

I'd prefer better-quality hubs than the originals, which have loose plastic sleeves covering their bearings.

The Halo Aerorage wheelset seem like a reasonable choice to me.

I've toyed with the idea of building some wheels myself from scratch - it's on my bucket list - but with my wife expecting our second child in February, now is not the right time.

Having said that, I'd appreciate advice on custom wheelsets (hubs, spokes, rims) and wheelbuilders.

I don't actually need a flip-flop hub: just a thread on one side, for a freewheel, would suit me.

I'm confused by some of the advice I've read (I wish I could recall where) indicating that one can fit a freewheel onto _any_ track (fixed) hub. I believe that the larger-diameter thread on a track-only (fixed-only) hub matches the thread required for a freewheel, but I thought perhaps that a freewheel might be wider than a fixed cog, and so need more width of thread to be fully screwed-on; furthermore, a fixed cog requires a lock ring (that fits onto a smaller-diameter thread next to the larger-diameter thread for the cog). I note that some candidate wheelsets I have seen (for example, Halo Aerorage) come in fixed/fixed or fixed/freewheel variants. So I think that the advice "you can use any track hub with a freewheel" might be bogus.

I tried riding fixed on my road commute for a while, but I've gone back to freewheeling, and I'm happy with that choice for now.

*Crankset*

A couple of years ago, the left - non-driveside - (170mm) crank arm came loose. On removing the crank arm, I noted that one of the corners of the square hole - not one of its flat faces - was a little more rounded than the others, but I wonder whether this was some effect of the original machining rather than subsequent wear. Still, lacking any other reason for the arm coming loose, I chose that as the corner into which to insert a shim made from a Diet Coke can.

I used kitchen scissors to cut a small sheet out of the can that, when folded at a 90-degree angle, fitted into that corner and covered most of the adjoining two faces.

So far, two years later, so good. But I have developed an "aesthetic" dislike for square-taper bottom brackets (I realize that sounds poncy; I can explain, if asked). I'd prefer a splined interface, like the Ultratorque crankset on my Campagnolo Record-equipped geared bike. (I realize that Campy Pista bottom brackets are still square-taper.)

*Chains*

I've replaced the chain several times with the original-spec model (KMC Z-510HX). This stretches too much for my liking.

(The return journey of my daily commute includes one steep-ish climb: up Mount Street into Kings Park, for any readers familiar with Perth, Western Australia. I suspect that this is responsible for most of the stretching!)

*Freewheels*

I replace the chain and (16T) freewheel together. So far, I've been using "DICTA"-brand, because they're much cheaper than the Shimano-brand freewheels, but I think (looking at the stripped teeth on a DICTA freewheel that I have just removed) that this is probably false economy.

*Chainrings*

So far, I have not had to replace any chainring from wear. A couple of years ago, I replaced the original 42T chainring with a 44T chainring just out of personal preference.

*Brakes*

I'm using the original-spec Tektro brakes. I'm semi-curious about pimping the Langster with better brakes (I've seen some nice-looking CNC'd brakes), but I'd want to know about compatibility with simple brake levers.

Thoughts, suggestions, feedback, all welcome.


----------



## frankdatank1337 (Jul 25, 2010)

Wheelset: 
Velocity Deep V 

Crankset:
Truvativ Omnium or Miche 

Chain:
If you want heavy unbreakable and kinda noisy- Izumi Gold/V Super Toughness
For light weight but durable- KMC K710SL

Freewheel:
Id go Shimano

Brakes:
Id say just change the pads to better ones.


----------



## WinWithPanache (Sep 5, 2012)

Shimano zz pads are great if you can get them.


----------



## bonefamily (May 17, 2011)

Regarding wheels - you will find about the best prices over at Velomine. Fixed / Free flip flop rear hubs sounds like what you want, and Velomine has them. Wheelsets : Velo Mine, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

Another good option is the Wabi wheelset. Wabi Cycles fixed gear wheels Pretty light and at a good cost. Quite a few riders like them.


----------



## Gitit (Sep 5, 2012)

frankdatank1337 said:


> Wheelset:
> Velocity Deep V
> 
> Crankset:
> ...


Agreed.


----------



## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

I'm curious about the aesthetic issue with square taper bottom brackets and cranks. Is it correct to infer that you prefer the look of outboard bearings? Or is the issue the space that often occurs between the frame and the crankarm?


----------



## Babel Coglioni (Sep 3, 2012)

UrbanPrimitive said:


> I'm curious about the aesthetic issue with square taper bottom brackets and cranks. Is it correct to infer that you prefer the look of outboard bearings? Or is the issue the space that often occurs between the frame and the crankarm?


I risk being exposed as an idiot here, but experience tells me that I will probably learn something .

My aesthetic dislike for square-taper bottom brackets stems from what I believe to be their intrinsic propensity to damage (the typically softer material of) crank arms beyond repair if the crank bolt (connecting the arm to the bracket spindle) becomes loose. That is, if the crank bolt becomes loose, the movement of the crank arm on the (harder) spindle causes the square hole in the crank arm to quickly become rounded. Not so much visual aesthetics, then, as functional aesthetics (if I haven't made enough of a ponce of myself already).

Having said that, perhaps the splined interface between the two halves of a Campagnolo Ultra-Torque bottom bracket spindle might eat itself if it came loose. And the shim that I fashioned a few years ago from a Diet Coke can (mentioned in a previous comment) to remedy a rounded square hole in my Langster's crank arm seems to be holding up. I doubt I'd be able to fix a damaged Ultra-Torque spindle so readily, or cheaply.

Visually, and entirely subjectively, I think "see-through" bottom brackets (like the Ultra-Torque and - from the photos I've seen - the SRAM Omnium) are very cool.

The space between the frame and the crank arm doesn't bother me much.

Getting extremely picky here, and acknowledging that consistency is a bugbear of minds as small as mine: if a bike has integrated or internal headset bearings, then, visually, I prefer it to have "inboard" bottom bracket bearings. Likewise, if a bike has external headset bearings, I prefer outboard bottom bracket bearings.

All else being equal (including, crucially, maintainability and longevity), I think I would prefer "inboard" bearings on both headset and bottom bracket. However, in practice, in late 2012, I think my choice for a new (single-speed) bike (probably with a custom titanium frame) would be external headset bearings (likely, Chris King) and outboard bottom bracket bearings (SRAM Omnium). I do not like the idea of the possibility of an integrated (as opposed to internal) headset bearing damaging the head tube of a frame. I will admit to not being up to speed with the latest developments in internal headset bearings (that do not risk frame damage).


----------



## Pottsy (Jul 5, 2012)

Hello, I'm new to the site and cycling and wanted feedback on what some of you guys with more knowledge than myself would say would be the first thing(s) I should replace on my 2012 Felt Brougham.
Thanks in advance. Just want to get the crap parts (if any) off and good, solid parts on.


----------



## bonefamily (May 17, 2011)

Pottsy said:


> Hello, I'm new to the site and cycling and wanted feedback on what some of you guys with more knowledge than myself would say would be the first thing(s) I should replace on my 2012 Felt Brougham.
> Thanks in advance. Just want to get the crap parts (if any) off and good, solid parts on.


IMO, the only reason to change parts is if they break or if they are making you uncomfortable to ride. The former is obvious, but the latter is for a comfortable fit on the bike. Such things as saddle, stem length, and handlebar style are the common. If those are all good and you are comfortable, tires could also give you some more comfort in a ride, pending they are of lower quality.


----------



## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

I like everything White Industries makes for single speed, especially the freewheels and cranksets. http://whiteind.com


----------



## Cygnus (Nov 26, 2004)

sorry, my 15 sec. rule set in for your post and i didn't read it entirely. 

i'm a big fan of webcyclery.com in Bend, OR for SS and fixed parts....and advice over the phone. i have no affiliation with them other than a history of good service.


----------



## Babel Coglioni (Sep 3, 2012)

Cygnus said:


> sorry, my 15 sec. rule set in for your post and i didn't read it entirely. ..


Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

15 sec. rule? I understand what you mean (it was a long post), and I respect your decision, but I do not subscribe to such a rule; neither in what I write nor in what I choose to read. At least, not in this context (this forum). I would elaborate, but I understand that you would n...


----------



## johnss (Sep 21, 2012)

Yes?


----------



## alexboer2004 (Mar 7, 2011)

Selle San Marco Concor Saddle










White Industries - ENO Freilauf Ritzel, 17 - Zähne










MKS - GR-9 Plattform-Pedale für Haken/Riemen., silber 
MKS - Toe Clips NJS Stahl-Pedalhaken., L


----------



## markaitch (Nov 3, 2010)

you planning to keep that chainstay protector on when it's finished?


----------



## Cygnus (Nov 26, 2004)

Babel Coglioni said:


> Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.
> 
> 15 sec. rule? I understand what you mean (it was a long post), and I respect your decision, but I do not subscribe to such a rule; neither in what I write nor in what I choose to read. At least, not in this context (this forum). I would elaborate, but I understand that you would n...


i'm not always so impatient, but the internet is a big place.

i'm with you on the 44x16, that seems to be the perfect all around gearing for me too. for screw on freewheels, i've found the white industries freewheel to be worth the high cost with years of service rather than one season before the knocking begins with the inferior ones.


----------



## RedAggie03 (Jul 11, 2011)

I have Wabi Cycles wheels and they are indeed very nice. Lighter than most and great on the pocketbook.


----------



## Kaidao (Oct 17, 2012)

How much does it usually cost to convert a geared bike to single speed?


----------



## frankdatank1337 (Jul 25, 2010)

To do it the absolute cheapest way it'll cost about $25 to $30. You just need a single speed conversion kit for your freehub. If you have vertical dropouts you'll need a chain tensioner as well. 

Single speed conversion (via spacers):









Chain tensioner:


----------



## Babel Coglioni (Sep 3, 2012)

*Halo Aerorage track wheelset*

Thanks to everyone who has offered their opinions and advice. I'm still interested (this is an ongoing project; also, in addition to replacing parts on my current bike, I'm building a list of "ideal" parts for a new bike).

I ended up buying a Halo Aerorage track wheelset for 199 Australian dollars, including postage, from Velogear. The wheels sat in their cardboard delivery boxes for several weeks until last night; the birth of my second son trumped all other concerns. The original 2007 Alex R500 rear rim finally split - exposing just how paper-thin it had become - on my commute home.

The "no-nonsense" look (I chose black) and medium-depth profile of the Aerorage rims perfectly suits the brushed aluminium Langster frame and its mix of black-anodized and polished aluminium parts. Not much to report after the first commute to work on the new wheels, except that I definitely noticed an improvement in handling. The old hubs needed servicing by someone with more skill (and patience) than me. I could never manage to properly adjust the tightness of the bearing cups (?); after many attempts and much cursing, I opted to under- rather than overtighten, resulting in some sideways play that was especially noticeable during cornering. No such issues with the new Halo hubs, which spin with a solid, silken smoothness that I do not recall ever being matched by the Alex hubs, even when new. Some spokes pinged a little for the first several hundred metres as they settled. I could not detect any difference in flex compared to the old wheels (perhaps with more sleep, I might be more discerning!).

This was my first replacement wheelset. Lessons learned: remember to order rim tape when you order the rims (d'oh!), and, when fitting the rim tape (this is a common-sense and hence probably well-known tip, but I figured it out for myself only on the second rim), poke a tube valve stem though the hole in the rim tape and the hole in the rim, ensuring that these holes remain perfectly aligned as you stretch and snap the (elastic loop of the) rim tape over the rim. (I chose to use the Halo-brand rim tape rather than, say, fabric tape.)


----------



## Babel Coglioni (Sep 3, 2012)

*White Industries freewheel*



Cygnus said:


> i've found the white industries freewheel to be worth the high cost with years of service rather than one season.


Thanks for the tip. Recently, I've been using "DICTA" brand freewheels (cheap), because they're readily available locally (I really should shop ahead more often); the teeth don't just wear down quickly, they snap off! Shimano freewheels are better, but I'll try the White Industries next time. "Years of service" sounds good to me. What chain do you use with the WI freewheel? (With thanks to others who have already suggested chains.)


----------

