# Brake pad upgrade



## LoneReaction (Mar 29, 2011)

Crashed 2 days ago because I couldn't brake hard enough, and my front wheel hit the bike in front of me. I'm thinking of getting some kool stop salmons. My bike is entry level, with Tektro R-530 brakes.

I do MTB too, and use SLX hydraulic disc brakes. On the MTB, one finger is all I need to leverage the braking power. On the road bike however, it feels like my brake pads are made out of glass or something. 

What do you more experienced guys think?


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## suasponte2/75 (Sep 19, 2009)

I like swissstop greens on my bike... they stop on a dime compared to my old ultegra pads. they're pretty soft too so they wear down fast. I don't mind since they stop me when I need it!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Upgrading brake pads is a fine idea, but two crashes in three days may indicate a need to either hone your bike handling skills or anticipate the need to brake sooner... or both.

Standard advice on the pads... Kool Stop salmons, but like ABS on a car, they won't protect you from errors in judgement.


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## xjbaylor (Dec 28, 2006)

PJ352 said:


> Upgrading brake pads is a fine idea, but two crashes in three days may indicate a need to either hone your bike handling skills or anticipate the need to brake sooner... or both.
> 
> Standard advice on the pads... Kool Stop salmons, but like ABS on a car, they won't protect you from errors in judgement.


He speaks the truth. An upgrade to Kool Stop salmons is a good idea, as Tektro pads are terrible. However, look into other possibilities for the cause of the crash, and understand this...your road bike will never have the traction and braking ability of your MTB. The tires are too thin, the pressure too high and the leverage of the calipers isn't as strong. Understand this, and ride accordingly.


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## LoneReaction (Mar 29, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Upgrading brake pads is a fine idea, but two crashes in three days may indicate a need to either hone your bike handling skills or anticipate the need to brake sooner... or both.
> 
> Standard advice on the pads... Kool Stop salmons, but like ABS on a car, they won't protect you from errors in judgement.


I didn't crash twice in 3 days, only once. Forgot to correct the typo "yesterday" to "the day before". :mad2: Edited first post.

Thanks for the tips. I will be practicing braking on the road bike more and paying attention to other riders. I'm just glad there were no other riders behind me, would feel really bad if I caused a pile-up.

Got a reply from my LBS and was told they had the Salmons in stock. :thumbsup:


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

LoneReaction said:


> I didn't crash twice in 3 days, only once. Forgot to correct the typo "yesterday" to "the day before". :mad2: Edited first post.
> 
> Thanks for the tips. I will be practicing braking on the road bike more and paying attention to other riders. I'm just glad there were no other riders behind me, would feel really bad if I caused a pile-up.
> 
> Got a reply from my LBS and was told they had the Salmons in stock. :thumbsup:


If they have them, it's worth the few bucks extra to get the Koolstop holders (or the higher-level one-piece shoes), not just the pad inserts for your existing shoes. The Koolstop holders and their better one-piece ((Supra 2 rather than Eagle 2) have this nifty spherical washer setup which lets you adjust the angle and toe-in of the pad very precisely and easily, for best braking action. Definitely worth an extra 5 bucks a pair or so. Better than the OEM hardware from Tektro, and better than Shimano and Campy for that matter.


The cheap ones:










The better ones:


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## LoneReaction (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks guys. Got these, with adjustable angle. Found out that my stock holders also have the ability to adjust angle. Oh well, only a few bucks extra.

Braking is so much better now!

(Stock holder/pad on the right)









I wonder what are the protrusions on the Kool Stop holders for?


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

I think you are referring to the Guides that help to quickly guide the tire thru the caliper when installing the wheel.


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## LoneReaction (Mar 29, 2011)

andulong said:


> I think you are referring to the Guides that help to quickly guide the tire thru the caliper when installing the wheel.


Awesome. Learn something new every day.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

You made a good choice.


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## Gervase (Aug 22, 2009)

What pads for Carbon rims? Cork? I have horrendous squealing from the ones that came with the wheels, and need something more effective, and less noisy.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Gervase said:


> What pads for Carbon rims? Cork? I have horrendous squealing from the ones that came with the wheels, and need something more effective, and less noisy.


Something to consider.
http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222343725/172/Kool-Stop-Dura-Ace-and-Ultegra.html

I've never used this (carbon) version, but judging from the two reviews they might solve your problems. 

There's a Campy version as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kool-Stop-Campagnolo-Brake-Pads-Carbon-Rims-/200577044416


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## Gervase (Aug 22, 2009)

Ah.......alas, it is just these little critters that I am using, Koolstop Carbon brake pads, make more squealing that a plane load of poms, just landed...the noise, once they warm to the task of braking, is quite deafening, not to mention, my concern at how the carbon is going to stand up to this. I would prefer to use anything that wears out fast, but saves my rims, & of course stops me safely. 

I feel, but it may just be perception, that they are starting to grab differently as they warm up too.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Gervase said:


> Ah.......alas, it is just these little critters that I am using, Koolstop Carbon brake pads, make more squealing that a plane load of poms...


Considering the reviews, is it possible that your pads aren't sufficiently toed in? Not doubting your mechanical skills, but toe-in (or lack thereof) is normally the cause of squealing.


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## Gervase (Aug 22, 2009)

I appreciate, this is an obvious consideration. However, the squealing is not present at all, until the pads are warmed up, usually after braking at the end of a reasonable descent, and if not used after this time & for a few more minutes go back to being quiet, so I don't think toe in is the reason, also because the toe is set, the pads are just replaced with other pads (inserts) and there is no squealing from my normal wheels, which have the same brake calipers.
I used to have squealing on my hybrid, and after contacting Jim langley and experimenting with toe in, and other material pads, he suggested sanding the rims. This worked perfectly and solved the problem, however I am not keen to sand the rims of my $3000 carbon wheel set...
Squealing comes from the harmonics which is set up, usually caused by the micro grabbing, releasing, grabbing, etc. (friction) in the set up of wheels, forks etc. So as in this case, the same brakes work (different pads) work fine with aluminium wheels, where as, plenty of harmonics, (squealing) from these carbons? 
On my hybrid, I will get harmonic squealing, if I simply change wheels, ie same pads. 
This squealing however goes beyond that, it is louder and comes and goes, depending on how much I use the brakes, which i need on descents..
So i think it is more to do with brake pad composition? however if there are no other suggestions, I will be forced to adjust the toe in, as I will have no other options.....I just wondered wether cork or something else may be more suitable?


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