# Is this bike worth it?



## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Hello all
I am upgrading from a hybrid to a cyclocross. Plan is to use it for commuting during the week and hitting the road on the weekend for an 50-80kms.
While looking around for a Giant TSX 2, I found a Jamis Nova Pro 2009 brand new on clearance for 1000 dollars. Here are the specs:



> SPECIFICATIONS
> Frame New 7005 aluminum double-butted main frame, hydroformed
> top tube for comfortable portage, carbon fiber seat stays,
> replaceable derailleur hanger, one eyelet
> ...


What do you guys think? Worth it?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If you aren't compromising on sizing/ fit, I think so. It's a solid package, you'll still get a full warranty and the MSRP was $1500.

http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2009&Brand=Jamis&Model=Nova+Pro&Type=bike


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Looks like a good deal.

Don't rule out road bikes. It's nice that a 'cross bike can accept a rack and fenders, but some road bikes do too and they're a little better (not much, but some) on the road. I use my road bike in preference for pretty much everything except actual 'cross racing and trail riding.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Thx for the advice. The streets in Montreal are pretty scary... some nasty huge potholes which pushed me more towards the cross. It was completely unexpected to find that bike since that shop don't even carry Jamis anymore.
Can you guys recommend pedals for the bike? I don't plan on buying cycling shoes for now. Maybe look into mtb pedals?


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

eggbeaters


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Paricitoi said:


> Thx for the advice. The streets in Montreal are pretty scary... some nasty huge potholes which pushed me more towards the cross. It was completely unexpected to find that bike since that shop don't even carry Jamis anymore.
> Can you guys recommend pedals for the bike? I don't plan on buying cycling shoes for now. Maybe look into mtb pedals?


Stay away from silly low spoke-count wheels, and any bike should be okay in terms of durability. Although if you want a larger tire to smooth out the ride, current road bikes can be limiting. 'Cross and touring bikes both have clearance for bigger tires, with more clearance, in general, going to the touring models. A 'cross bike should have a little sportier ride, but that's not a comparison I've made first-hand. Sport/touring bikes from the late '80s can be a kickass city ride because they have a pretty traditional road geometry and enough clearance for some decent-sized rubber.

If you're not wearing cycling shoes, old-school clips and straps are the way to go, IMHO. I just have the cheap $15 generic ones on my commuter. If I were to spend more, from what I've read I'd want one of the MKS models. Check out Rivendell (rivbike.com) for some recommendations and discussion. Price check your LBS and the 'net in general before ordering anything there.

If clips and straps are bothersome for you, you're into BMX-style flat pedals. If you look at something that's actually marketed for BMX and not MTB, make sure to check the spindle size. Road bikes take 9/16". I have Redline flat pedals. They're cheap, and I'm not sure I'd be confident in them lasting a long time if I rode them daily, but they're still worlds better than the cheap resin pedals that come with a lot of new bikes, or the cheapest of the cage pedals. The surfaces have a slight concave shape and little nubs that make them more secure. More hard-core off-road users would use pedals with adjustable, replaceable pins; up to you if you want that.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Thx Andrew. I got some relatively cheap Wellgo SP-95B before having a chance to see your post. I had to pick the bike from the shop today and needed something.

Well I rode it back home and one thing is a definite: *OUCH*. This thing is fast and nimble but god oh god I can feel those potholes shaking my brain out. The saddle is also rock hard. I wanna give it some more time before deciding if a saddle upgrade is mandatory.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Congratulations on the new bike.

Saddles are always uncomfortable for new riders, or riders coming back from an off-season of not riding. All your weight should be on your sit bones. If you can't set up the saddle, between fore/aft position and tilt, so that that's the case, it doesn't fit your butt and you need a different one. Not an upgrade - just a change. The expense of the saddle might get you bragging rights on the internet, but has no effect on real world comfort or performance. Most people start with their saddles level. Some even advocate using a level to level it. Many people end up tipping their saddles up or down a little bit, but it's very subtle. If the saddle has a radical angle, it's probably wrong.

For comfort on rough roads, you need to figure out "your" tire pressure, probably something below the pressure printed on the sidewalls, and you need to ride a little more actively - lift your weight off the saddle when you're approaching something that's going to give you a whack. For me, the lowest pressure that doesn't wallow is my favorite pressure. I'm not a big guy and don't get pinch flats at this pressure. If you do, you need more tire pressure and might benefit from fatter tires.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Paricitoi said:


> This thing is fast and nimble but god oh god I can feel those potholes shaking my brain out. The saddle is also rock hard. I wanna give it some more time before deciding if a saddle upgrade is mandatory.


Congrats on the new bike. As you may know, pics are 'mandatory' here. 

Along with Andrew's advice, three words....

Padded cycling shorts.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Thx all. I will post a picture soon


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Well bad news. $$##@@@ guys at the shop must have overtightened the saddle. Was on the bike and heard a loud crack. That bolt used to adjust the height of the saddle split opened in the middle 

Shop is 14kms away and trains are not running today


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Picture of the bike.


A quick edit: Yup reflectors are screaming nub... but then again that's no lie


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Left side of the bolt is stuck.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If you want this to be covered under warranty you'll have to bring the bike back to your LBS, but assuming the clamp is not attached to the frame and is composite (plastic), you could either try backing the bolt out using pliers to grip it, or (carefully) pull the open section around the seat post and remove it from the bike. 

If you have another LBS closer to home, you could bring the clamp there and they'd either match and replace it or remove the bolt and install another. The viable options would depend on just how stuck the bolt is....


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Sorry for not responding sooner.. went through quite some troubles.
I took the bike on Saturday to have it fixed. They replaced the bolt and everything seemed fine but for a some rubbing noise from the front wheel when I take sharp turns.
Yesterday I rode to work and on the downhill to the underground parking, as soon as I used the front break, the bike started shaking like crazy... almost threw me over.
I took it again to the shop during lunch and guess what? They found out that because of an error in the paperwork, they didn't do any work on the bike before giving it to me!!! The technician touched the derailleur cable and it fell!!! The stuff was loose... only the tires were tightened... When I think that I went downhill on that bike at 71kms an hours just a few mns before that front brake problem happened...
The manager came out and said how sorry they are. Offered a gift card of 50 dollars and either reimbursement or to have his best tech prepare the bike and make sure it's set up properly this time.
I am tempted to just return the whole thing and go somewhere else. That 500 dollars saved on this bike almost made my wife a widow


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Wow. You are one lucky guy and that is one negligent LBS. If they're now going to fix the problem and properly assemble the bike, I'd keep it. I might take it to a different shop for maintenance and repairs from now on, though.

It's also a good lesson to learn a few things on your own about maintenance so you can double-check the work a shop does. Make it a habit to go over the bike before a ride as well.

Until I read your last post, I was going to suggest that if you're using the bike for commuting, I would leave the reflectors on. People may give you grief about being a noob, but if it helps you to be seen in traffic, it's worth it.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

My usual pre-ride check is to grip the brakes and rock the bike back and forth. A surprising number of problems can become apparent when I do that.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Duly noted 
Well here is the rest of the story. I went to get the bike today. Was assured that they did a thorough tune up and took an appointment for advanced fitting tomorrow. On the way back home, the "thorough" tune up wound up not so thorough... Chain would fall every time I'd switch platters. So tomorrow, bike is returning to the shop for a refund.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

Since I saw this coming, here is the replacement I was looking at: It's a road bike (MEC) not a cx and it's 100 dollars more (1100 dollars). Rumors is that the frame is made by Giant. I test rode it today and it was so smooth. I didn't feel the potholes as much even with the 23 tires... 
They give 1 year free maintenance plus free mounting of any accessories for 30 days since the purchase. They also credit certain parts you might want to swap based on the list price (Saddle, tires, fork, something else I can't remember).
The plan is to put some 25 (was looking at the marathon plus). Seems 28 aren't sure to fit. Switch the OEM pads for some koolstop. Brake levers on the top and a cyclo with cadence.
It's not really great looking (plain white and black) but It felt really nice when I rode it.


> *Specifications*
> Weight 8.7kg (Medium)
> Geometry Performance Road
> Frame MEC tapered 7005 aluminum
> ...


What do you guys think?


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## pdh777 (Oct 7, 2005)

You got a good deal on the bike - keep it - change shops.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

^^^
Agree with this. There's nothing fundamentally wrong with the bike - it just needs to be tuned up my someone who knows wtf he's doing.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I'm not condoning the negligence of your LBS by any means, and I understand that repetitive problems will make anyone second guess a purchasing decision, but I agree with those advising you to keep the Jamis. You've posted nothing that leads me to believe there's anything wrong with the bike that a competent wrench couldn't easily remedy.

I'm not comparing my experiences with yours, but (as an example) one of the bikes I now own had excessive drivetrain noise, shifted poorly at the rear and dropped the chain (inside and out) at the front during my test ride. I loved the fit, ride and handling, so I purchased the bike, brought it home and spent about an hour setting it up correctly. 10k+ miles later it's (overall) the best bike I've owned. 

Point being, IME shifting issues are fairly common on new bikes, so I suggest bringing the bike back to the shop, explaining the problem and asking that they correct it, then let you take it for a ride, return and have them readjust it (if necessary) until it's right. IMO, at this point special consideration should be given (and accommodations made) for your troubles, and they seem to be willing to do that. 

That said, if you feel more comfortable (as pdh777 suggests), bring the bike to another LBS and pay a nominal fee to have it set up correctly.


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## Paricitoi (Jun 27, 2011)

I will follow your advice and take it again for a tune up. Let's hope third (or fourth) time is the charm.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Bikes are reletively simple to work on. Do a youtube search and you can find most of the simple stuff in a minute or two.

Having been a service manager awhile back i know the headache of a mechanic speeding through a repair or overlooking things......leaves a sour feeling.

I too would keep the Jamis and just tune it properly myself.


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## gwilly3 (Jul 6, 2011)

*KHS Flite 300 ($365) good deal?*

Hello,

I am new to riding. I need a bike for commuting to save money on gas and for the joy of riding. I eventually would enjoy long distance rides (such as the Pacific Coast Highway), but for now, only need for recreational and commuting. I know a lot depends on fitting, but do you think this is a good deal?

KHS Flite 300 for $365
These were the specs added in the link:

FEATURES: 
Shimano Tiagra/105 Group: Shifters, Crankset, Bottom Bracket, Front Derailleur, 
Rear Derailleur, Hubset, Cassette, Chain 
Ritchey: Headset, Stem, Handle Bar 
Rigida Aero 700c Clincher Wheels 
Kenda Tires New


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