# Why a road bike?



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

I've never owned a road bike, as I guess they're called. I've only ever owned mountain bikes. So I've been considering picking one up, as I hear they're just all around better. But I want to know why. I mean, it's pretty obvious that it's the type of bike made for the cycling enthusiast, because you always see these people with their biking outfits and weird shoes for their crazy pedals on their expensive bike.

Why pick a road bike over some other type of bike?
What is the benefit of those shoes?
If I pick up a road bike, should I go fixed gear or __-speed?
How come when I see people riding a road bike, their feet are constantly pedaling?
When I would ride a mountain bike, I would pedal when necessary, and rest my feet once I reached a comfortable speed. Besides, if I continued pedaling, it really wouldn't increase my speed, nor would I feel resistance from the gears. Road bikes differ mechanically somehow, then?
Mostly, I'll be using the bike for recreation/exercise, and I'm probably not going to take it too seriously. In fact, I'm probably going to pick up a road bike at a garage sale or craigslist or something before I decide to spend a good amount of cash on this hobby.


----------



## tconrady (May 1, 2007)

Hi Cramertron and welcome.

I'll try to answer a few of your questions...hopefully.

I picked a road bike after riding a hybrid for about a year. I wanted to be able to go farther and faster. I also realized that after about 40 miles on my hybrid the suspension fork and suspension seatpost didn't really help much. (Perhaps it did but it sure didn't feel like it after several hours.)

The benefit of the shoes/cleats is to lock into the pedals and have the advantage of pedaling "up" as well as down. Road shoes typically have the cleat exposed more and hence the funny walking...because it's sticking out. Mountain shoes typically have the cleat a bit more recessed....most likely because with a mountain bike you're more likely to be contending with uneven pavement. Some road riders will use mountian shoes/cleats/pedals on their road setup....easier to walk and makes it easier if they have the same pedals on their mountain bike.

Fixie or geared? Depends on what you're wanting to do. I think fixie is harder but that's just me. I prefer gears....and coasting....on fixies the cranks continue to rotate if the bike is in motion.

Most roadies feet are constantly pedaling because most strive to keep their cadence constant or nearly so for training purposes. Trust me, after a big climb I will coast and not pedal down the other side of the hill for a good while! Road bikes are geared (gear ratios) differently than mountain bikes.

+1 on the idea of getting a used bike first. Remember though, that fit is the most important aspect of a bike. If it doesn't fit, it won't be fun and/or can cause injuries.


----------



## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

I will address only a few of your points, particularly this question:



> How come when I see people riding a road bike, their feet are constantly pedaling?
> When I would ride a mountain bike, I would pedal when necessary, and rest my feet once I reached a comfortable speed. Besides, if I continued pedaling, it really wouldn't increase my speed, nor would I feel resistance from the gears.


Most people ride for exercise, and fun. What are you resting up for when you stop pedaling? If you are trying to get somewhere with minimum effort (like transport around a city in dress clothing) that makes sense. But when you're trying to get exercise, and have fun, not so much. Part of the fun is going fast.

You're wrong that more pedaling won't affect your speed, except in the unusual situation where you're going downhill so fast that you can't spin fast enough to apply any power in your highest gear. On a road bike, that's pretty fast (well over 30 mph for most people). Below that, you will slow down if you don't keep pedaling.

That's another point. On a road bike, you go faster, so air resistance is greater. Which means you slow more if you're coasting. Going 10 mph on the mountain bike, you don't slow too quickly if you coast. At 22 mph on the road bike, you'll notice it immediately. You have to keep some power on to maintain speed.

Another point: some of those roadies you see are riding fixed gears. They can't coast. That's a whole 'nother subject.

Your instinct is good: find a used bike, and try it out. See if you can get a bike that fits you okay (do you have a road-biking friend who can help?) and make sure it's safe to ride.

You might like it. It's more basic in some ways than mountain biking. It's what made biking fun when you were a kid: going fast, under your own power. 

And to go back to your fundamental question, why a road bike: because it's made for riding on the road. In that use, it's quicker, faster, more maneuverable. That's more fun (for most people -- if you decide you like the MTB better, nothing wrong with that). 

And welcome.


----------



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

JCavilia said:


> You're wrong that more pedaling won't affect your speed, except in the unusual situation where you're going downhill so fast that you can't spin fast enough to apply any power in your highest gear. On a road bike, that's pretty fast (well over 30 mph for most people). Below that, you will slow down if you don't keep pedaling.
> 
> That's another point. On a road bike, you go faster, so air resistance is greater. Which means you slow more if you're coasting. Going 10 mph on the mountain bike, you don't slow too quickly if you coast. At 22 mph on the road bike, you'll notice it immediately. You have to keep some power on to maintain speed.


Ah, this makes a lot of sense. Thanks. I guess I wouldn't wouldn't have understood this, because of my experience with slower bikes.

Thank you, too, tcon.

So is there a good correlation between the size of a bike frame and a person's height?
Since I'm looking at used bikes, a lot of these people are listing frame sizes. If I knew what size frame would be right for my height, then I might be able to narrow down my options better (instead of having to drive thirty minutes out of the way just to sit on a bike that's too big for me).


----------



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

Nevermind. I found my answer here: http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm

I'll stop asking questions for now.


----------



## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Cramtron said:


> Nevermind. I found my answer here: http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm
> 
> I'll stop asking questions for now.


That table is a pretty good general guide to sizing. Good luck. Keep us posted and don't hesitate to ask questions.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Cramtron said:


> Nevermind. I found my answer here: http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm
> 
> I'll stop asking questions for now.


I've followed along on this thread and even though you're going used and limiting the financial investment, the bike still needs to fit well for you to want to ride it.

That said, some words of caution.... 

IMO that chart is (at best) a general guide, so take their recommendations wiith a grain of salt. Telling someone that, based on their inseam, they're between two frame sizes isn't all that helpful. And it disregards the importance of meeting a riders reach requirements. _After_ that's been established,_ then _worry about frame size (based on effective top tube length), but they can't do that without inputting several other measurements.

Also, keep in mind that there is no standard for measuring frame sizes, so one brands 54cm is anothers 56. Sizes vary between brands and sometimes even within brands/ models, so use caution when comparing.

In an effort to stray from the negatives I've presented, I suggest going to a reputable LBS and tell them you want a standard fitting. You'll pay a nominal fee, but what you'll come away with is a good understanding of the geo that works for you and your fit requirements.

Once they fit you to the bike they feel works best for you, review/ print the geo chart from it (along with the stem length/ angle chosen on the fitted bike) and use that as a guide when looking at used bikes. Granted, the older a bike is, the less likely a geo chart can be found. But assuming you'll stay fairly current, this method will work.

BTW, I may have missed it, but do you have a price range in mind?


----------



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

Hopefully less than $250. It seems road bikes are quite costly, and even old used ones sell for a good wad of cash.

As for the geo-fit, I really have never heard of such a thing before. I don't know what an LBS is, either. Really, I'll probably just hop on the bike and take it for a quick spin to determine if it feels right or not.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Cramtron said:


> Hopefully less than $250. It seems road bikes are quite costly, and even old used ones sell for a good wad of cash.
> 
> As for the geo-fit, I really have never heard of such a thing before. I don't know what an LBS is, either. Really, I'll probably just hop on the bike and take it for a quick spin to determine if it feels right or not.


I asked about your price range because for around $600 you can get a new road bike from your local bike shop (LBS). At $250, I'm afraid that's not an option. If you aren't 'married' to the idea of a drop bar road bike, consider a hybrid, because (new) they can be had for around $350 and are easier to fit. 

Regarding what you refer to as a 'geo-fit' (kinda catchy phrase) it does work when followed as described. The goal is to get a baseline (the bike the LBS uses for the fitting) and using those measurements compare any candidate bikes to them. The closer the numbers, the better the fit. 

But beyond that, given your price range and assuming you'll be doing more casual riding, there's nothing wrong with simply going with what feels right. Just be aware that the longer and harder you ride, the more likely deficiencies in fit will show up.


----------



## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

From the link you posted http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtor...ike_sizing.htm
I hope you went a little farther to this link. http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/right_bike.htm
By your questions it seems to me like you're not sure what kind of bike to buy. Road bikes are built to cover long distances at high speeds. That's what they do. Very generally speaking, they're the sports cars of cycling. You may really like that, but you might want to drive a Honda Accord, or a mini van. Take a look at the second link and see if that helps you.


----------



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> Just be aware that the longer and harder you ride, the more likely deficiencies in fit will show up.


This makes a lot of sense, and I'll keep it in mind.
As for questioning my commitment to buying a road bike and riding regularly, I do have a habit of making whimsical purchases and hardly getting my money's worth of usage from them, so that's why I'm being cheap with it. If I decide I want to upgrade to a better bike, then I'll drop the cash. But I am definitely going to buy a road bike. I've ridden all other types of bikes, and they all leave something to be desired.
Thank you everyone, for your input. I'll try to make good use of it.


----------



## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Cramtron said:


> Why pick a road bike over some other type of bike?


It takes less work to go fast and feels better.

More specifically, you get 

Ergonomics. The usual position with your hands on the brake hoods keeps your wrists in a neutral position and doesn't press on any nerves. Your back is forwards so it doesn't over-extend when you go over bumps. There are at least four comfortable hand positions you can move between.

Aerodynamics. At healthy speeds where you aren't going up too much of a grade most of your power is going into overcoming aerodynamic drag. Lower riding positions (as when riding on the drops) let you go faster with the same amount of effort.

Smooth skinny tires have lower rolling resistance so you go faster for a given power input. While an option on mountain bikes (which may call for a second set of wheels if you also ride off-road) they're standard on road bikes.

Perceived effort (but not energy expended or calories burned, so you can go harder) is lower at people's preferred cadence. Closely spaced gears (I like 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23 cogs; while an 11-34 9-speed mountain bike cluster might be 11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30,34) make that more likely. While an option on mountain bikes (you want the second wheel set) you're more likely to get it on a road bike.

Road bikes with no suspension and skinny tires can weigh a lot less than mountain bikes with suspension and fat tires. While it only helps a little when climbing, it's more pleasant if you carry your bike up the stairs to your office.



> If I pick up a road bike, should I go fixed gear or __-speed?


I like a triple crank up front with a tight cassette in back with a smaller large cog. That would be "30 speeds" with contemporary technology although 8 or 9 in back might do.


----------



## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

Cramtron said:


> I've never owned a road bike, as I guess they're called. I've only ever owned mountain bikes. So I've been considering picking one up, as I hear they're just all around better.


Im not clear on the point here but if by 'all around better' you really mean all around thats quite wrong. Road bike are probably the worse 'all around' bike there is. they are great for just one purpose.


----------



## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Hank Stamper said:


> Im not clear on the point here but if by 'all around better' you really mean all around thats quite wrong. Road bike are probably the worse 'all around' bike there is. they are great for just one purpose.


:thumbsup: I agree! :thumbsup:


----------



## Cramtron (Mar 31, 2010)

Hank Stamper said:


> Im not clear on the point here but if by 'all around better' you really mean all around thats quite wrong. Road bike are probably the worse 'all around' bike there is. they are great for just one purpose.


I didn't mean "all around" as in the most versatile. I would assume that a "hybrid" bike would fit that category. What I meant was better in most aspects. But that's subjective, I suppose, because it would depend on what you want the bike for.


----------



## Peter_T (Jun 3, 2009)

"What I meant was better in most aspects."
_____

Road bikes are better in most ways, so long as you mean riding on paved roads of fair quality (they don't have to be great but they cannot be all potholes and construction junk, like most NYC sidestreets). Mountain bikes generally have better climbing gears; but on paved roads they lose most or all of that climbing advantage over road bikes through greater rolling resistance, due to MTBs' wide, knobby tires, heavier wheels, etc.. For getting the most speed and distance out of the effort you put in, nothing self-powered compares with riding a road bike on fair quality paved roads.

A word of warning, though. Speed and distance are addictive!


----------



## Money D (Mar 9, 2002)

road bike are nice because if you spend "x" amount of energy on a 30lb dual susp mt bike you might go "y" distance, but spend "x" amount of energy on a 15lb road bike you might go twice "y" distance and faster is funner.

If you think you might not like road riding doesn't mean you have to go cheap. If you buy a $700 used bike that was a decent deal, chances are in 4 months you'll be able to sell it for $700.

Road shoes are VERY stiff, walking is hardly figured into the design at all. The stiffness allows there to be no "hot spots" where a large portion of pressure hits a part of your foot. Its distributed evenly by the sole, which is often made out of carbon for light weight and stiffness.

LBS is local bike shop

Flying along single track is a lot of fun, but I have to drive 30min to get to a decent spot. That's 1 hour round trip that I could be road riding, and that adds up quick too.

Good luck.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

All around and $250. Go to Wal-Mart.


----------



## qatarbhoy (Aug 17, 2009)

I would beware of Wal-Mart, their bikes are often poorly assembled and even if you know what you're doing putting that right can be a pain, or impossible.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

qatarbhoy said:


> I would beware of Wal-Mart, their bikes are often poorly assembled and even if you know what you're doing putting that right can be a pain, or impossible.


I was being sarcastic since the OP's requests and opinions weren't very realistic.


----------

