# cx/gravel grinder bike- AL or Carbon?



## alias33

Looking at buying one of these two bikes the fuji cross 1.1 or its carbon sibling the altimira 1.3. Both have almost exactly the same components besides the fsa crank and aluminum crown fork on the cheaper 1.1 cx. The biggest difference being the aluminum frame vs the carbon frame.

I usually keep my bikes for 5+ years and expect them to last and have a great ride for their intended purpose. That said I'll be using the bike for 2 or 3 cx races a year and the rest of the rides will be only when I'm not on my road or mtn bike, such as the 3 gravel grinders I have planned (think almanzo 100-long unsupported road/dirt rides). Or as a bike that I'll take when I can only have one with me to do both road and light mtn duty.

There is only a 1 lb difference between the two and with 35c tires will I even notice the dampened "buzz" that a carbon frame might provide? Its about a $500 upgrade to go to full carbon, would I be better off spending that on race entry fees?!

I do like the color more on the carbon bike, call me vain.

fuji cross 1.1










fuji altimira 1.3


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## lamazion

I would go with the carbon bike ... Like you, I like the color better. There is something to be said about being excited about a bike. Performance wise, other than weight, I don't think you will see a big difference. I love my carbon cx bike!


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## jroden

I really enjoy my carbon cross bike, I have ridden all sorts of alu bikes and they are just fine too, but the lighter weight and stiffness of the carbon makes it a really fun bike. You can't go wrong with either choice, but for me having an 18 pound bike after riding tanks for years has been a real treat.


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## bc sparks

Even though these bikes are from the same company, there are a couple of small differences in geometry. They don't effect fit but could make for small differences in handling. The 1.3 has 42.5 cm chainstays while the 1.1 has 43 cm chainstays. The 1.3 has a 67 mm bb drop in all sizes and the 1.1 has 69 to 65 mm bb drop depending on size. Also the wheelbases are different with the 1.3 generally being shorter. 

For a racing bike, in my size, I'd get the 1.3 for weight and geometry.


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## cxboy

alias33 said:


> Looking at buying one of these two bikes the fuji cross 1.1 or its carbon sibling the altimira 1.3. Both have almost exactly the same components besides the fsa crank and aluminum crown fork on the cheaper 1.1 cx. The biggest difference being the aluminum frame vs the carbon frame.
> 
> I usually keep my bikes for 5+ years and expect them to last and have a great ride for their intended purpose. That said I'll be using the bike for 2 or 3 cx races a year and the rest of the rides will be only when I'm not on my road or mtn bike, such as the 3 gravel grinders I have planned (think almanzo 100-long unsupported road/dirt rides). Or as a bike that I'll take when I can only have one with me to do both road and light mtn duty.
> 
> There is only a 1 lb difference between the two and with 35c tires will I even notice the dampened "buzz" that a carbon frame might provide? Its about a $500 upgrade to go to full carbon, would I be better off spending that on race entry fees?!
> 
> I do like the color more on the carbon bike, call me vain.
> 
> fuji cross 1.1
> 
> 
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> 
> fuji altimira 1.3


Holly molly...Nice find, looks like Fuji got it together for 2013 !!


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## T0mi

Both look like nice bikes.

It really depends on your budget. I would say choose the 1.1 if buying the 1.3 means you won't be able to buy a spare or tubular wheelset of if it means you will have a hard time replacing expandables parts because of cost. From a pure logical pov, buying one of those bikes is not really justified by 3 cx races + 3 gravel grinders a year while you could find a nice used cx bike for a fraction of this price. It's all about the joy of having a new bike. We can't really help more.

Best advice I can give you is go to the nearest bike shop selling fujis and ask for testriding both. Only then will you be able to figure if the difference is worth the price difference.


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## adam_mac84

I never take my carbon bike on gravel rides... don't like the sound of big ol rocks hitting the carbon... prefer the sound of the 'ping' against my aluminum bike... just me. I will RACE the carbon bike, but for gravel grinding... i'd go aluminum


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## Donn12

I bought an aluminum CX bike so I wouldn't have to worry about it. It feels bullet proof


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## mudrock

Those who fear the pinging of rocks on a carbon downtube should check out Niner's demo of their carbon fork

Niner Bikes Fork Hammering - YouTube


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## the mayor

I have a Colnago C50 cross that I have been racing since 2006. I probably have over 100 races on it.....and plenty of crashes.
I have heard a lot of things bang off the down tube....and other parts of the bike.
It's fine.....

I have broken steel, aluminum and ti cross bikes.


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## Spinistry

We put on several gravel grinders a year and I might be able to count on one hand the number of carbon bikes that have shown up for our events. Granted, we try to put together tough routes with as much loose stuff as we can find but the carbon bikes typically get left at home. I've had quite a few people tell me they just don't want to have any concern in their head while grinding away.


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## mudrock

Spinistry said:


> We put on several gravel grinders a year and I might be able to count on one hand the number of carbon bikes that have shown up for our events. Granted, we try to put together tough routes with as much loose stuff as we can find but the carbon bikes typically get left at home. I've had quite a few people tell me they just don't want to have any concern in their head while grinding away.


I think that's just superstition. Carbon frames are put to rugged use in cross-country mtb with great results. Noone worries about rocks hitting the frame. Carbon is plenty durable.

With the gravel grinder crowd, I think it's a cultural thing. They don't like carbon in general: steel or ti is their thing.


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## moralleper

I have had both an al redline conquest pro that I raced and did gravel grinders on. It was fine for racing and was comfortable bike but long bouts in the saddle on this bike was a bit punishing. Also the gravel grinders I did were fun but I was happy to be off the bike when done. Last year I picked up a NOS 2009 Sworks carbon tricross and this bike it fantastic. It is great for racing but it is awesome for long rides in gravel. I did a 40 mile gravel grinder that got pretty sketchy due to some road repair and large rocks not yet compacted and the bike handled great and I did not feel all beat up when I got done. If I were to do it again I would go carbon in a heart beat. I would also look used as you can find some pretty good deal of racers cleaning out their pit bikes. Just check out the frame well and if you are not comfortable doing this have a shop do it.


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## Local Hero

I wouldn't hesitate to ride aluminum. The comfort of the frame isn't all that important when you're riding 32mm tires at 85psi. 

That said, I would probably buy a carbon bike, all things being equal. It sounds like you want the carbon bike. So just wait a few pay periods and pay the extra money 



While both your bikes have Force w/ discs, Fuji also has an affordable ($1999) Ultegra bike w/cantis on bikesdirect. If you're concerned at all about weight, rest assured that a canti bike will save about a pound over a disc bike. 










Cross Bikes - Cyclocross - Fuji Altamira CX 2.0 Cross Bikes


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## LAW.S.T

alias33 said:


> Looking at buying one of these two bikes the fuji cross 1.1 or its carbon sibling the altimira 1.3. Both have almost exactly the same components besides the fsa crank and aluminum crown fork on the cheaper 1.1 cx. The biggest difference being the aluminum frame vs the carbon frame.
> 
> I usually keep my bikes for 5+ years and expect them to last and have a great ride for their intended purpose. That said I'll be using the bike for 2 or 3 cx races a year and the rest of the rides will be only when I'm not on my road or mtn bike, such as the 3 gravel grinders I have planned (think almanzo 100-long unsupported road/dirt rides). Or as a bike that I'll take when I can only have one with me to do both road and light mtn duty.
> 
> There is only a 1 lb difference between the two and with 35c tires will I even notice the dampened "buzz" that a carbon frame might provide? Its about a $500 upgrade to go to full carbon, would I be better off spending that on race entry fees?!
> 
> I do like the color more on the carbon bike, call me vain.
> 
> fuji cross 1.1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fuji altimira 1.3


The Altamira looks sweet, but I don't think the difference is only 500. its more than that.
the MSRP: $2979 vs the CROSS 1.1 at $2049.
Did you manage to find a good deal ?


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## alias33

I've been looking at used bikes lately and this trek cronus has caught my eye, granted its not a disc model but its a sub 16 lb. build and a quality oclv carbon frame. 
Plus I just think the cronus is a sexier bike, hmmm.
View attachment 272972


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## alias33

LAW.S.T said:


> The Altamira looks sweet, but I don't think the difference is only 500. its more than that.
> the MSRP: $2979 vs the CROSS 1.1 at $2049.
> Did you manage to find a good deal ?



its a shop sponsorship discount, I still have to pay out of my own pocket, just a little less with the discount.


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## Warpdatframe

Just some advice for the fujis about the wheels, THEY SUCK! Oval wheels are absolute garbage. They are crazy heavy, terrible durability, and make your bike feel like it's from walmart.


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## TheRealKTrain

Warpdatframe said:


> Just some advice for the fujis about the wheels, THEY SUCK! Oval wheels are absolute garbage. They are crazy heavy, terrible durability, and make your bike feel like it's from walmart.


Funny coming from a dude by the name "Warp dat Frame"

Everything you mentioned is opinion based. What wheels were you using, and what did they weigh? How did you determine the durability? Where did you buy your Fuji/Oval wheels?


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## LAW.S.T

alias33 said:


> its a shop sponsorship discount, I still have to pay out of my own pocket, just a little less with the discount.


very tempting.....


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## jrm

Ive used packing tape on the downtube of my alum bike to keep the paint from chipping. It works...


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## adam_mac84

TheRealKTrain said:


> Funny coming from a dude by the name "Warp dat Frame"
> 
> Everything you mentioned is opinion based. What wheels were you using, and what did they weigh? How did you determine the durability? Where did you buy your Fuji/Oval wheels?


the oval '524' wheel is not great.. especially for gravel riding. I have toasted 2 hubs, and my wife 1. Make sure you check the 'locknuts' on the axle frequently, i have had 2x them back themself off somehow, one time lost the pawls on the freehub, stranding me out on a gravel road in the dark, caught the other one.

I may actually try out some oval 535's. they are the wider version. I get them pretty cheap so i can live with the issues, but don't expect too much


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## LAW.S.T

Local Hero said:


> I wouldn't hesitate to ride aluminum. The comfort of the frame isn't all that important when you're riding 32mm tires at 85psi.
> 
> That said, I would probably buy a carbon bike, all things being equal. It sounds like you want the carbon bike. So just wait a few pay periods and pay the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> While both your bikes have Force w/ discs, Fuji also has an affordable ($1999) Ultegra bike w/cantis on bikesdirect. If you're concerned at all about weight, rest assured that a canti bike will save about a pound over a disc bike.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cross Bikes - Cyclocross - Fuji Altamira CX 2.0 Cross Bikes


I have always been curious as to how they got these special deals.
This looks like a nice deal too with a pretty "fiery" colour


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## Kingofthelizard

I am debating the same bikes. Do you happen to know the weight of both bikes.


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## LAW.S.T

jrm said:


> Ive used packing tape on the downtube of my alum bike to keep the paint from chipping. It works...


no damage when you remove it ?


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## LAW.S.T

LAW.S.T said:


> I have always been curious as to how they got these special deals.
> This looks like a nice deal too with a pretty "fiery" colour


Bump. anyone got any close about the Ultegra bike w/cantis on bikesdirect.


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## RRRoubaix

I'm thinking of a gravel grinder/commuter/possible race bike myself. I'm not looking at aluminum though- while great for race bikes, I want some more cush for my tush on long grinders. I'm thinking CF or Ti!
(Admittedly, that does raise the stakes a bit...)


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## flatsix911

LAW.S.T said:


> Bump. anyone got any close about the Ultegra bike w/cantis on bikesdirect.


Here is the full lineup of Cyclocross bikes at BD

Save Up To 60% Off New Cyclocross Bicycles from bikesdirect.com.
Bikesdirect Photo Gallery


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## LAW.S.T

flatsix911 said:


> Here is the full lineup of Cyclocross bikes at BD
> 
> Save Up To 60% Off New Cyclocross Bicycles from bikesdirect.com.
> Bikesdirect Photo Gallery


been there many times and back flat6.. just really really curious about the pricing..
came so close to ordering a couple of times.. but I keep wondering.... what do they earn ? The retail price i found only was $3,529.99


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## LAW.S.T

won't Ti be harsher ?
I've always though it was Ti>Steel>Al<>F in terms of cushyness


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## alias33

Kingofthelizard said:


> I am debating the same bikes. Do you happen to know the weight of both bikes.


I've been told the carbon version weighs 19 ish lbs and the al version comes in at 20.5lbs approx. 

I didn't hear back from the cronus owner yet, so I'm going to go with the fuji carbon 1.3 and try to upgrade the wheels asap.


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## jrm

LAW.S.T said:


> no damage when you remove it ?


still on there


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## LAW.S.T

jrm said:


> still on there


acknowledged with thanks !


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## gte105u

LAW.S.T said:


> no damage when you remove it ?


I used packing tape to wrap the wired on my wired computer up the down tube. It got to looking pretty grimy after a few months. No issue getting it off through. Took most of the big stuff off by hand. Then some goo gone and my fingers to rub the residue and any small pieces of tape. Took about 15 minutes but no damage I saw.


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## LAW.S.T

gte105u said:


> I used packing tape to wrap the wired on my wired computer up the down tube. It got to looking pretty grimy after a few months. No issue getting it off through. Took most of the big stuff off by hand. Then some goo gone and my fingers to rub the residue and any small pieces of tape. Took about 15 minutes but no damage I saw.


thanks for the tip


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## alias33

turns out that the fuji with a wheel upgrade puts me into a higher price point and I can just buy a foundry auger with 10 year warranty and better wheels right off the bat.


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## cs1

What about steel? If you build it with a CF fork it isn't going to be that much heavier. The ride will be much better that AL.


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## the mayor

cs1 said:


> What about steel? If you build it with a CF fork it isn't going to be that much heavier. The ride will be much better that AL.


That's a wive's tale.
There are plenty of bad riding steel bikes...and some aluminum frames that ride really nice
Same with carbon forks......


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## LAW.S.T

the mayor said:


> That's a wive's tale.
> There are plenty of bad riding steel bikes...and some aluminum frames that ride really nice
> Same with carbon forks......


what would be your advice on this matter ?


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## cs1

the mayor said:


> That's a wive's tale.
> There are plenty of bad riding steel bikes...and some aluminum frames that ride really nice
> Same with carbon forks......


Maybe I should have clarified that. A high quality steel frame like a Gunnar or Ritchey.


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## RRRoubaix

LAW.S.T said:


> won't Ti be harsher ?
> I've always though it was Ti>Steel>Al<>F in terms of cushyness


Nope, Ti is like steel, only lighter and more expensive.
As The Mayor was alluding to, it really depends on the frame, but I haven't met any cushy riding Al frames.


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## davidka

LAW.S.T said:


> won't Ti be harsher ?
> I've always though it was Ti>Steel>Al<>F in terms of cushyness


I have had several top-end steel frames. All rode very well but after 15 years with my Ti frame I offer, "If steel is real, then Ti is magic". That said, I agree with the previous posters too. There are plenty of good ti race frames that one would not consider plush and steel can be made in just about any flavor you'd like too.

Gunnars are excellent, well thought out steel bikes at a very fair price and for a gravel/CX bike.

Ride comfort is less an issue because of the larger tire sizes/lower pressures. Both of the bikes I have in the category are aluminum and ride as well as the quality of the tires I put on them.


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## LAW.S.T

davidka said:


> I have had several top-end steel frames. All rode very well but after 15 years with my Ti frame I offer, "If steel is real, then Ti is magic". That said, I agree with the previous posters too. There are plenty of good ti race frames that one would not consider plush and steel can be made in just about any flavor you'd like too.
> 
> Gunnars are excellent, well thought out steel bikes at a very fair price and for a gravel/CX bike.
> 
> Ride comfort is less an issue because of the larger tire sizes/lower pressures. Both of the bikes I have in the category are aluminum and ride as well as the quality of the tires I put on them.


acknowledge with thanks!


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## mudrock

I think you made the best choice. The weight savings of the carbon frame will offset the penalty of the discs, the vibration damping you get from the frame will help with the stones and washboard, plus the carbon layups can be optimized to resist the forces that disc brakes put on the frame and fork. I bought a Dirty Disco almost a year ago and have no regrets. The stiffness of the frame makes it rock-solid, yet it doesn't chatter your teeth.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/alexmurdock/8430691807/" title="DSC04410 by alexmurdock, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8430691807_2222ff3cde.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="DSC04410"></a>


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## kriskexplorer

What's the max tire clearance on the Dirty Disco?


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## mudrock

38-40mm, depending. The gap in the fork measures 50mm. The tightest clearance on the frame is the chainstays. I have 38mm rubber on my bike now and it can't go much larger in back.


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## kriskexplorer

mudrock said:


> 38-40mm, depending. The gap in the fork measures 50mm. The tightest clearance on the frame is the chainstays. I have 38mm rubber on my bike now and it can't go much larger in back.


Thanks. What tires are you running for gravel? And are they working well for you?


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## mudrock

Serfas Vidas in 38mm. They're ok - they work fine on the road also, which is around half my miles. My next ones will be a bit more aggressive.

https://www.serfas.com/products/view/264/referer:products|index|tires|hybrid-comfort-tires

It's what my LBS had, and I use his compressor to convert them to tubeless, so I can't really order online then use his tools!


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