# First Road/Entry Level Bike



## Project (Jul 11, 2012)

So I have been riding fixed gears for a few years now but I sold my bike a few months ago and have been itching to buy a new road bike. 

Every LBS that I have walked into has tried to sell me on a bike but I am just so unsure of what seems like my best bet for $1700.

So far I really like the 2013 Trek Madonne 2.1 but someone told me that it's more for endurance and I have also come across the 2013 GIant TCR SL 2 which is nice, just has an ugly paint scheme... and the integrated cables on the Madone were oh so very sweet.

Anyone have any suggestions?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Project said:


> So I have been riding fixed gears for a few years now but I sold my bike a few months ago and have been itching to buy a new road bike.
> 
> Every LBS that I have walked into has tried to sell me on a bike but *I am just so unsure of what seems like my best bet for $1700.*
> 
> ...


Your best bet for $1,700 (or any amount of money) is the bike that suites your intended uses/ goals, fits/ feels the best and rides/ handles the way you like. If the Trek 2 series fits those criteria, go buy it.

As far as the 2.1 being more endurance, I disagree. There may be bikes with geo slightly more aggressive than the Trek's, but I'd sooner put a 'race' label on it than I would 'endurance'. If you shortened the head tube, the geo is comparable to my Tarmac, and that's no endurance bike.

If after test riding the Giant and Trek you're still unsure of what to do, I suggest branching out and test riding some other brands/ models in your price range. You may want to consider doing this anyway, because while you might ultimately go back to the Trek, riding more bikes may serve to clarify your preferences.


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## The Human G-Nome (Aug 26, 2002)

As long as they fit, most of these bikes are going to ride pretty similarly. Sure, there are stellar deals out there to be had (be sure to check the Hot Deals section of RBR for example), but in general, get the bike you think looks the nicest that also has nice componentry. 

Do keep in mind that that vast majority of people who buy bikes in that price range end up immediately upgrading the bike and spending an extra grand. Saddle, wheels, bars, stems, etc. There's no end to your ability to make this bike an instant money pit no matter how "perfect" you imagine it to be upon purchase. So, be mindful of this when you purchase. 

Think about...

- Will I be upgrading my saddle? Is this one for me for the long haul?

The answer is about 95% no for most new bike owners.

- Are these wheels worthy of what I want to use them for going forward? Do I plan on ever racing? Do I live in a really hilly area?

There is the second most often purchased upgrade. Wheels are like jewelry in a cyclist's eyes, and you may easily catch the fever. 

So, if at all possible, think about buying one level above what you think you should be spending. Wait an extra month or so to save if you have to. In the end, if you don't take this approach, you will likely spend that much and more soon enough. 

***Extra hint.... Bikewagon.com just got in some new Blue Competitions over the last few days. The prices are pretty good for that line. Check 'em out. You may find something close to your price range. I used to race a CX bike from Blue a few years back, and that bike was stellar. I also bought my latest bike, a Fuji Altamira from Bikewagon, and they provided excellent service.

Of course, this is only one small sample route. There are 100s of great alternatives. If you do buy from your LBS, you may pay a little more, but you may make up for it with peace of mind, fit, and perhaps some free tuneups - not to mention you are helping your local economy.

If that is less important to you, however, you can get so many great deal off the net right now whether it be a state-side place like Bikewagon (Utah), or an overseas place like Ribble or Wiggle (both give you huge bang for your buck). For example, check out these sales: Bikes | Wiggle


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## The Human G-Nome (Aug 26, 2002)

This is a stellar deal for example for an Italian bike with Ultegra:









Wiggle | Moser Bikes 111 Ultegra 2012 | Road Bikes


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## BigTex_BMC (Dec 30, 2011)

$1700 gives you a lot of options in the entry level category, get something that you'll want to ride (good fit, comfortable, looks good). I'd also recommend getting something with at least 105 components.

But don't forget all stuff that doesn't come with the bike, bibs/shorts, jerseys, bottles, cages, pedals, shoes, cycling computer and you may want to upgrade your saddle. Some shops my offer a a package deal that includes most of that stuff, but it's usually all crap you'll end up upgrading anyway, so shy away from those.

When you buy a bike from a shop they usually throw in a free bike fitting, if they don't, then talk them into it, after all your dropping some serious dough.

I hate steering people away from their LBS, but Competitive Cyclist has some crazy end of the year close outs, so if your looking to save some cash for all the extras you will end up spending money on there's that option. The downside is you won't get to test ride the bike and there's no guarantee a perfect fitting bike will show up in the mail.


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## HolyBull (Nov 27, 2008)

Down here in San Diego, every other LBS seems to sell a brand called Focus and the bang for the buck seems really good.


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## mikez (Apr 13, 2010)

Nothing wrong with a vintage Columbus tubed bike.....Campy or high end Dura Ace. Low prices and excellent rides.


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## Packersfantaz (Nov 28, 2012)

The best advice I have seen on the forum was try until you find "the one". It basically feels natural and good to be on. I like the Madone 2.3 a lot, ended with a Fuji Roubaix 1.0 as it felt smooth almost effortless to peddle. The savings allowed a few other upgrades, better (and bigger tires/tubes since I weigh 260 just starting off in riding), pedals I want and Performance has the club where 10 percent in purchases are credit towards future store purchases.

I will say our local Trek store had great service but so did Performance (I know some have had bad experiences there as with any business). 

My opinion is first how well bike fits and your comfort/love for it. Next is your LBS and there service level as service may be needed after the sale. Overall I really enjoyed the shopping part, now it's on to riding.


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## jeepsouth (Nov 28, 2011)

I went through the process you are now experiencing last spring. I can tell you some of what I learned.

First, this site is invaluable. The advice I got from some of the folks here made my experience a lot better.

Second, take a lot of test rides. And I mean ride everything you can find to ride in your price range, then go back and ride them again. And don't just ride around the parking lot. Spend some time on the bike and ride in the area around the shop. Try varying terrain if you can so you'll get the feel of the bike on hills and flats and at speed. You will soon find one or two that are your favorites. Talk to the folks in the various shops in your area about getting the proper fit. Don't buy a bike unless you are absolutely sure it fits you. Find a bike that fits you, looks good to you, has a ride-feel you are happy with, and has a decent warranty. 

Also, as someone else stated you will need shorts/bibs, jersey(s), pedals, shoes and helmet at a minimum. You will also want gloves, bottle cage and bottle, a bike computer, etc. You may need to get a different saddle. The bottom line is that you should figure these costs into your budget. Most bike shops (at least those in my area) will give you a pretty good discount if you buy the accessories along with your bike purchase, so check on that with your LBS.

Lastly. the prices online are great, but you do not get the service that normally goes along with a purchase at a LBS. Most LBS's include services that online shops simply cannot offer. These include fitting (the most important, IMO), free tune-ups for your bike, discounts on accessories, group rides, etc. Also, if there is a problem or you have a warranty claim, the LBS will prove to be much more convenient and helpful.

Good luck with your search and keep us informed.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

Not sure where the $1700 number came from, but regardless that will buy you a nice bike. +/- $500 from that will still buy you a nice bike.

One thing to consider is budget for accessories. You'll want clipless pedals and really stiff shoes (shoes are where I really recommend carbon fiber), and probably a couple pairs of good cycling shorts. Then you'll need a few items in your jersey pocket or saddle bag to handle flat tires, and I also recommend a seat post blinking light for safety day or night. While there is nothing wrong with buying these as you go, it's nice to have a well-rounded setup.

Back to the bike upgrades, here are my opinions on various things they throw at you as you shop:
Component line - Shimano/SRAM/Campy all make good components and all of them have reliability. All of them will fail to work if used improperly or not maintained. For a first road bike I suggest buying a popular component set and not put too much worry into it.

Wheels - Certainly wheels are a nice upgrade opportunity, however there are plenty of benefits to having a nice sturdy set of factory wheels. Cheaper wheels are trouble-free wheels. It's not a good policy to have an ultralight wheelset if it breaks and you don't have another set for your next ride. If nicer wheels are appealing, you'll probably not find that perfect wheelset on the next higher model in the store. Don't buy a bike based on the wheelset since there is no law against owning and using multiple wheelsets.

Carbon vs. Aluminum - this is a big one, but it's also not. If you intend to ride long distances (say, century rides), then aluminum will sacrifice some comfort. Aluminum is the stiffer, more supportive option and by most accounts overly stiff. Carbon is more compliant but less durable. Not to give you a horror story but a rider I know had her chain jam from a light plastic grocery bag and did not see it in time to stop pedaling - ripped off her derailleur and totaled the carbon frame. A basic crash on a CF frame can trash it. Aluminum is much tougher and more repairable.

Carbon fiber - many bikes have CF materials in the seatpost, stem, or handlebars. This makes a small improvement in comfort over aluminum, usually no weight savings, and usually costs more with less durability. In my opinion, a carbon fork and carbon saddle rails are the only place aside from the frame where the properties of carbon fiber directly contribute to comfort. And above all material selections, bicycle fit dictates comfort. So don't let the carbon fiber craze get to you.

Weight savings - even in the rotating parts, weight is still just weight. A pound off your body is the same as a pound off of the wheel no matter what anyone might try to suggest. I'm 205 so while my bike doesn't weigh 25lb, I have no illusions that losing 5lb will have a much bigger effect. Losing body weight will make you faster and more comfortable on the bike.

Saddle - the saddle on your new bike is probably not going to stay there. The mfr knows that too, so it's usually a cheap one. Once you get your new bike reassess the saddle fit and consider whether the bike shop (or another local bike shop) has a saddle demo program. If you're careful to not lose your fit settings, a better shaped saddle helps comfort immensely.

Brand - Trek, Specialized, Felt, Cannondale, etc all make a good bicycle. It's very competitive in this price range so you can hardly go wrong if the fit is good. If you're worried about the exclusivity of the brand name, then Trek is not as highly regarded by some bike snobs, but then again bike snobs ultimately have impossibly high standards anyway. I like having my entry-level Trek because if I'm riding with fast riders and I start pulling on them, I know it bothers some of them that I'm doing it on a bike that is 1/5th to 1/10th the cost of theirs. Makes the success just a bit sweeter. 

Gearing - gearing is very important. I live at the base of the Appalachian mountains, and while these aren't the Alps, the roads can take a pretty steep line up the slopes and there are plenty of rolling hills. Combined with my additional weight I need tall gearing. While a triple crank gives you maximum climbing leverage, I'm getting by fine with a 50/34 double crank and a 12-27 or 11-28 rear cassette. Your situation deserves consideration.

Dave


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

First road bike? Did you do a lot of other types of cycling before or is this an entirely new sport for you?

IF, you new to cycling I would never recommend that you pay anywhere near $1700 for your first bike, in fact I would say spend about $600! Why you scream? Because 98% of all people that start a new sport and done with it in about 3 months then you'll be left with a piece of expensive garage art for the next 30 years.

The Schwinn Circuit, Schwinn Fastback Sport, Giant OCR 3, Jamis Ventura Comp, and the Raleigh Grand Sport are 5 great choices for bikes found at LBS's; if your lucky you might find 2012 model year they'll discount to get it off the floor. Or if you ok with ordering a bike on the internet Bikes Direct can get you a slightly better deal, see:Save Up To 60% Off Road Bikes, Bicycles, Mountain Bikes and Bicycles with Bikesdirect.com, New with full warranties. Just make sure you know your proper size, you can either ask here about how to do that, or e-mail Bikes Direct and they can guide you.

Otherwise if you dead set on spending $1700 you can get a titanium bike for that much at Bikes Direct equipped with Sram Rival.


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## pucela (Sep 10, 2011)

When I bought my road bike this past April I was in your same situation. No more than $1700, and I was also eyeing the Trek Madone 2.3. I then went to the LBS and they had a previous year model Madone 3.1 at an unbeatable price. I bought the 3.1 and I've been really happy with it.


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## azneinstein (Dec 18, 2012)

Don't all LBS carry the entry-mid-high bikes? $700 for Sora/Tiagra and then go up from there. I know people say that the LBS recommends the $1700 bike, but can't you choose for yourself? As long as it's comfortable and the geometry is correct, I don't think you can go wrong.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

azneinstein said:


> Don't all LBS carry the entry-mid-high bikes? $700 for Sora/Tiagra and then go up from there. I know people say that the LBS recommends the $1700 bike, but can't you choose for yourself? As long as it's comfortable and the geometry is correct, I don't think you can go wrong.


Any LBS should be able to order any bike made by the manufacturer(s) that they carry. A good one might explain the differences between the $700 entry level aluminum and the $1700 upgraded aluminum/entry level carbon, but they won't pressure you into spending more than you want to. Good shops know that if you walk out satisfied with the experience, you'll be back. They know all about n + 1, but they also know that you'll need accessories, service and replacement parts, too.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Of course any LBS will tell you the difference between a $700 and $1700 bike, problem is most LBS's will push the more expensive bike, that is their to job to not only sell but to upsell. But you have to not get emotional, like people do a lot with cars and houses, and be rational.

Like I said before, a lot of first time riders, with all the greatest intentions, will buy an expensive bike or exercise equipment, use it for roughly 3 months then the stuff just sits for years until one day it ends up in either a garage sale or CL as barely used for cheap. I suggest again that if buying this bike represents your first journey into cycling or rigorous physical activity, buy something a lot less expensive, then if your still loving it and do it almost daily after a couple of years then upgrade to a better bike when you know you have the need for a better bike.

I've bought used bikes with barely any miles on them, barely used exercise equipment for pennies on the dollar; and you see this stuff on the time on CL.

Just an suggestion and nothing more.


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## HISI808 (Dec 25, 2012)

I bought my first road bike a couple of months ago. It was a 2013 Felt z85 with 105 components. So far I have been really happy with it and probably will not upgrade for a couple of years.


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## irish4life (Dec 30, 2012)

I bought my first road bike this year. I went with a Fuji Roubaix 2.0. Love the bike. put 1,000 miles on it this past summer and also completed a century on it this year. Great bike for the price. The only thing that I replaced on the bike was the saddle.


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## Wallstreet (Aug 24, 2011)

Did you boys scare him away as I don't see his decision? It's a month later now


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