# replacement chorus 11 lever blades



## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

hi guys,

quick question - pretty straight forward..

crashed... damaged the brake levers (both) on my chorus 11 ergos... any idea where to order some in? and approx price?

cheers

joe


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

Sorry to hear about the wreck. Unless the levers are broken, I would repair them with clear lacquer or nail polish. New levers are about $120 each, at least from US based sellers. You can get a whole new pair of shifters, with cables, for that price.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=details&PageID=30&SKU=LD9987

I've repaired quite a few carbon brake levers that were scraped up in wrecks. A little feather-edge sanding with 400 grit, then several coats of clear lacquer or nail polish, followed by a little 1000 grit sanding and some polishing will make than look almost like new.

I've even scraped half the Record logo off in a wreck, so I sanded all of it off and made no-name brake levers.


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## bedazzle410 (Sep 26, 2005)

C-40
I am about to get a new Look 595 replacement from Look. I was going to upgrade to SR11 from my 7800. The shop quoted 2450 for the groupo installed. I see I can get the groupo, chain tool and computer delivered from Shinny based on a exchange rate of 1.50 for 1975. It seems like a no brainer. Is the groupo difficult to set up and is it worth trying to get Lick to match price if they will. Thanks for help.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

thanks C40...

i figured as much... both of them are damaged... do you have some pics of these repairs successfully done....

it is only aesthetic, but there is a huge part of clear missing...

pics attached - do you rekon it'll look good done, or be a waste of time? i'm out for a helmet so i'm not opposed to buying replacements and hocking these on ebay...


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## nenad (May 5, 2004)

Man, I feel for you, really I do, if anyone on this forum is an aesthetic weenie it is me. That said, I think this is repairable if I can see things right; that is, I do not actually see that the lever blades are damaged structurally.

If you are uneasy about doing cosmetic repairs yourself, I would take them to a good quality paint shop where someone with a good steady hand can perform proper sanding and clear coating.

Also, if it is any consolation, the best looking bike for me is the one that shows signs of use, and the more scars from use there are, the more stories to tell.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*repairable...*

That damage looks repairable, although it appears some of it is close to the Chorus lettering. It will look good, if you know what you're doing. I use Norton 3X sandpaper (yellow in color) and do the sanding dry. The only wet sanding I do is the final 1000 grit before polishing.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

Thanks so much guys, i appreciate the words nenand. 

I'm just repairing it at the moment, the damage is not near the lettering so it is safe. I cut out the raised clear coat with a scalpel which was an improvement, and now i am building up the clear gradually...

The only way it could be perfect is if i stripped the entire clear and started again with a hobbiest air gun. Nail varnish it is...

will sand down and polish...

I was thinking start with 600, then 1500 wet, then 2000wet final ( i have these laying around). I have buffing compound as well...

Thanks for that... shame there isn't a guide available... I think i remember you posting pics of levers you had done, but i couldn't find em..


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## nenad (May 5, 2004)

Post some pics when you are finished, let us take a look.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

*update + after pics*

ok, so the job is done...

first, i wanna thank c-40 as usual for the tips and the calming influence... I am quite happy with the repair, especially since i'm a subscriber to murphy's law at the price campy wants for replacement blades...

Second, i must say i was committed to an in situ repair. I simply could not be bothered yanking out all my cables and extracting the lever. No doubt better results could be had by removing the carbon brake lever... again, CBF.


the process is straight forward as far as paint work goes... The clear separates off the carbon underneath fairly easy, problem is it lifts and makes that murky color... My solution was to cut around the affected area generously with a surgical scalpel, but a razor blade would also work...

carefully lift off the clear... smooth carbon layer with some fine sand paper. Clean area.

This time, i made a right angle L shape around the affected area... If i were to do it again, i would use a steel ruler or similar and cut a very fine horizontal line below the area and remove all the clear above... Horizontal lines are far less visible than the vertical one on my L shape when you walk around the front of the bike focusing on the lever...

Build up some layers carefully and patiently with clear nail polish - i used revlon we had lying around.. it did good!

after you think you've matched the thick layer of original clear (but gone tad higher), allow to dry. All up it took around 4-5 days before i got to this stage... be patient.. the clear takes ages to properly set for sanding and buffing... you've been warned...

I sanded down the repair clear with 600grit quality wet/dry paper... Use this until all brush marks and depressions in the clear are gone (there will be some as you are using a brush if using nail polish), and until you match the level of the original section of clear... Then go over with 1200grit. Finally buff with compound until sheen of the clear is restored... The area will be smooth to the touch, with no ridge layer between the original and repaired section of clear can be felt...

results below...

Musings: Since i did not know if the "CHORUS11" label was screen printed on the lever or the clear, i decided to cut out the section above... I am happy with the repair. However, a perfect result could be had, if it lies under the clear, but removing all original clear and starting the clear coat process from scratch...that said, even if it was printed on the carbon blade, the removing of the clear would likely damage it...

Again, as mentioned i was committed to an in situ repair... Better results could be had by removing and doing the job on a flat surface, with one horizontal cut and redoing the whole top section of the lever IMO... If you did this, you could easily mask the good sections off and spray with hobby-grade aerosol (or airbrush) clear. Testors and Tamiya make good ones.. The spray would most likely put down smoother lines and dry quicker in between layers and give an overall better repair. 

Thanks for looking... When i had my heart in my mouth, I scanned everywhere for a guide but could not find one... I hope this helps others on RBR or elsewhere looking in. I'm sure someone can do a better job, but even so, hope this helps allay the initial fear and depression that goes with damaging your baby!

THERE IS HOPE! :thumbsup:

(pics below: Left lever finished, Right lever at 1200 sanding stage, Right Lever finished)


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## nenad (May 5, 2004)

Thanks for sharing it with us. And I think the blades came out great ! :thumbsup:


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## wr7r (Aug 28, 2004)

*I need to do the same thing.*

I had the same thing happen to my shift levelers on a two week old bike. I am willing to try this fix, but I want to make sure I understand the process.

Things I will need: 400-600 grit sand paper, 1,200 grit sand paper, nail polish, knife to cut away clear coat, buffing compound.

First I need to cut away the damaged clear coat on the levels (is this set needed. Will it just look weird if this step is not done). Then I sand down the cut away section with the 400-600 grit sand paper (does the sand paper need to be wet or dry when I do this). I then start building levels with the nail polish. Do I need to sand down the nail polish after it has set all of the way between the layers (wet or dry)? I will need to bring the layers just a little over the original clear coat. Then I use 1,200 grit paper to the clean up the brush strokes and other imperfects (wet or dry). The last step is to take the buffing compound to bring back the sheen. I am missing anything.

Thanks for your help. I have attached photos.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

I use Norton 3X sandpaper, 400 grit that can be used dry. You only need to cut away clearcoat if there is some that looks milky around the scuffed area. This clearcoat has been lifted loose, but not fallen off. Don't pry up underneath or the damaged area will just get bigger. You can sand the area first, then wet the area with acetone or lacquer thinner. That may reveal any remaining, but loose clearcoat. If not, it will show up after the first coat of nail polish. You can wipe it off with acetone or lacquer thinner and cut away the loose cearcoat, then feather-edge sand the cut edge.

There is no need to do any wet sanding with 600-1500 grit until you've applied enough coats of nail polish to build-up the area.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

yup! 

and not to stress, that damage looks very repairable!, much smaller than mine...


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