# First road bike for a new college commuter



## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

I'm a college student looking to buy my first road bike for under a $1000 to commute and ride around the area to get to surrounding towns (10miles).

Where I live is slightly/moderately hilly area (Chapel Hill, NC), red bricked sidewalks, and paved roads so getting a road bike wouldn't severely limit my travels. 

My question is I'm deciding between a Specialized Allez, Trek 1.1/1.2, or 2013 Motobecane
Vent Noir from Bikesdirect. com (which I am skeptical about since I heard mixed reviews of buying bikes online). I'd go for Craigslist but I'm a little wary since my only experience with a used bike has led to repairs canceling out the cost savings. 

I'm also looking to upgrade from the stock 2300 to a Shimano Tiagra since the 2300/Sora has a really awkward switch that's miles away from the drop bars. 

Unfortunately, I'm a complete newb at this, so any recommendations or suggestions?

Thanks!


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## Gitit (Sep 5, 2012)

I'd go for the Allez, but I think that as a beginner you'll enjoy any of them so go with whatever one gets you most excited to ride it.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

mrwheezy117 said:


> I'm a college student looking to buy my first road bike for under a $1000 to commute and ride around the area to get to surrounding towns (10miles).
> 
> Where I live is slightly/moderately hilly area (Chapel Hill, NC), red bricked sidewalks, and paved roads so getting a road bike wouldn't severely limit my travels.
> 
> ...


If I'm reading right, you already have a road bike.

I don't know how bad your school is. But colleges are often about the worst locations going for keeping a bike. Do your research before you drop a bunch of money.

Is the only thing that bothers you about your bike that the shifter has that odd thumb button? To be honest, my advice there is to get over it. But if you must, you can fix that for $200-$300.

A lot of people feel who've been riding a while feel they bought the wrong bike the first time. It doesn't fit their purpose or the size is off, or they didn't spend their "real" number. Take a little time to ride the bike you've got and (without buying any big-ticket items) make it work for you. At least to the extent that you can. When you're feeling less like a noob, take a little time and think about what you don't like about your bike and what you really want from it. What do you have, anyway?


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## bballr4567 (Jul 17, 2012)

Secteur sport compact?? 


However, I'd double think about getting a nice bike on campus. The higher end they look the more likely they will get stolen.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

Oh no I don't have a bike yet. If I did, I would've done my research before hand to not make a regrettable purchase.

My college campus is very safe in terms of crime. I never had anything stolen here even though by my own ignorance, I should've. But I am planning on keeping my bike inside the dorm room or outside the classroom (in broad daylight) for an hour or two at most, so theft shouldn't be an issue.

But my question is to what extent is the Shimano Sora ergonomically unfriendly to justify purchasing the Tiagra? Because I'm just stuck on whether I should get the Specialized Allez Sport or Elite. (Treks are higher priced and BikesDirect's reliability is doubtful)


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## bballr4567 (Jul 17, 2012)

You wont be riding in the drops around campus. It just wont make sense. Now, if you were actually riding on the road for exercise you would be. 



Still, college campuses are high crime areas for bike thefts even on safe campuses.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Rather than speculating, call your campus police and ask them. My school, at least, publishes their statistics from time to time. Bike theft is chronically underreported. So keep that in mind when interpreting their statistics. If you have a roommate, don't give your dorm room too much credit for being secure.

Commenting about upgrading from Sora/2300 confused me. If you don't have a bike, you have nothing to upgrade from. IMHO, buying a bike that you intend to bolt more money to immediately upon purchase is stupid. A lot of the time, if you just rolled that back into your initial purchase price, you'd get whatever upgrade you had in mind, and a generally higher level of componentry everywhere else too.

Be aware that for 2013, Sora no longer has the thumb switch. I find it fine to operate from up on the brake hoods but awkward from the drops. I also don't think it's an issue with a commuting bike. When the integrated shifters on my commuter died, I substituted downtube shifters. Cheaper. They also happen to be lighter and, depending on the execution, can be more reliable. It'll take me about ten years to be able to say that's true of mine - Shimano's integrated shifters are also extremely reliable. The one I had that broke was from another company. While it's a bit slower for me to operate downtube shifters or a thumb button than the nicer integrated shifters on my other bike, it's not like somebody will give me a prize for getting to school a few seconds faster.

Colleges tend to be able to support some used bike shops. For me, used from a shop is about the best option going for value. You should still be able to ride a few bikes, somebody else will have paid for the initial depreciation, and a reputable shop should be sending you out the door on something that's in good mechanical shape. Some may even stand behind their bikes for a while. For me, the big value-added in buying from a shop is that I get to ride some bikes. And for a bike ridden on longer rides, like those to neighboring towns, I think having one that fits is really important, something I figure out by test riding. Get on the phone and call around - see if you've got something right on campus, and see what's in your area.

Also, give a little thought to how much stuff you want to carry and how you'll carry it. I hate wearing backpacks on bikes. And after about a half hour or if there's any sustained climbing, I really don't like my messenger bag any more either. I have a rack on my commuter and use panniers when I want to move more stuff or go a longer distance. Getting those onto racing-styled bikes like the Allez or Trek 1-series can be a bit of a battle. Specialized and Trek do both address that kind of use, as do a lot of companies. (Specialized Tricross, Trek CrossRip.) Give a little thought to bad weather. Fender clearance is lacking and installation is often more difficult on racing-styled bikes.

One of the side bonuses of buying used is that frames in the '90s weren't as committed to looking like race frames as they tend to be lately. We're seeing some backlash now as people find they'd really like not to have the wheels spraying water all over them, and maybe they also want to have 25 mm or 28 mm tires, and sometimes even at the same time. But often you can get all that in a little older bike. You just need to stay away from late-model midlife crisis rigs.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

I have an Allez with Apex components. I love it for fitness riding, training, and light racing. I rode it for about a week as my commuter with a backpack for work. It was because I took the pedals off my hybrid while I waited on the pedals I ordered to come in. I can say I was not a fan at all of riding it with a backpack on. Now I am sure that you could tweak the fit so it was less of an issue, but it is built in the same geometry as the Tarmac. You may want to consider the Sectuer or another of that shape/fit.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Oh no I don't have a bike yet. If I did, I would've done my research before hand to not make a regrettable purchase.
> 
> My college campus is very safe in terms of crime. I never had anything stolen here even though by my own ignorance, I should've. But I am planning on keeping my bike inside the dorm room or outside the classroom (in broad daylight) for an hour or two at most, so theft shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> But my question is to what extent is the Shimano Sora ergonomically unfriendly to justify purchasing the Tiagra? Because *I'm just stuck on whether I should get the Specialized Allez Sport or Elite.* (Treks are higher priced and BikesDirect's reliability is doubtful)


Since the 2013 Shimano Sora STI's no longer use the thumb tabs, I'm assuming you're looking at 2012 models. 

If so, I agree with the others that, given your intended uses and that fact that most cyclists prefer riding on the hoods, the thumb tab isn't going to hold you back. 

However, the Allez Elites 10 speed Tiagra is (IMO) a worthwhile upgrade, assuming you can manage the added cost. 

That said, I'd go with a good used bike for a campus commuter, for all the aforementioned reasons.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

I'll have to look into the crime rate for sure but seeing that I'll be keeping the bike in my room (and the roommate is a good friend), I'll be safe. Plus, there are a few other really nice road bikes (from what I can identify) out on the rack getting rained on.

But apologies for the confusion. I meant if I should buy the Allez Sport vs Elite or Trek 1.2 vs 1.5 to go from the Sora to the Tiagra. If the thumb switch is no longer an issue, then I can't imagine why I would shell out an extra $200 for the Tiagra.

I've also looked at Craigslist and used bike shops around here and there aren't many options.

So I'm slowly narrowing down my choices. Also, is the 2013 Shimano 2300 thumb-switch free as well? And how is the Secteur different from the Allez?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> I'll have to look into the crime rate for sure but seeing that I'll be keeping the bike in my room (and the roommate is a good friend), I'll be safe. Plus, there are a few other really nice road bikes (from what I can identify) out on the rack getting rained on.
> 
> But apologies for the confusion. I meant if I should buy the Allez Sport vs Elite or Trek 1.2 vs 1.5 to go from the Sora to the Tiagra. If the thumb switch is no longer an issue, then I can't imagine why I would shell out an extra $200 for the Tiagra.
> 
> ...


2300 is 8 speed and has the thumb tabs. Up until their 2013 revamp, Shimano's Sora had the thumb tab. It was (and still is, 9 speed) Tiagra went to 10 speed in 2012.

Given the above changes and their apparent impact on your purchase, you need to find out the model year of any and all bikes of interest.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

buy something cheap. $1000 is a lot to spend as a college student.... which can inevitably get stolen. Books are expensive also....

So.. I would agree, a Trek 1.1 or the base Allez, are comparable in price.... would be good choices.

Don't forget to lock your wheels, since they are attached to quick releases.

If you were to go BikesDirect, I would recommend a Wellington 3.0 (but upgrade the seat immediately)
Road Bikes - Windsor Wellington 3.0 Web Sale Prices
the wheels..while the brake track is not machined... these wheels roll a lot better than the Specialized wheels on my Secteur


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The Secteur has "relaxed" geometry. See if you can tell a difference in the ride. Sometimes these bikes give a bit more room and allowance for bigger tires, racks and fenders. That's a good thing to look at in person.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

Sorry for the constant barrage of questions. I'm pretty close to deciding between the two/three Allez. Will I notice the difference between the 8-9-10 speeds? (Other than the hurt in my wallet, which won't be too bad since I'll be paying for 50% of the bike with my summer job)

(The Secteur is definitely on my mind as well, I'll just have to test out the geometry later when I go to my LBS)


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Sorry for the constant barrage of questions. I'm pretty close to deciding between the two/three Allez. Will I notice the difference between the 8-9-10 speeds? (Other than the hurt in my wallet, which won't be too bad since I'll be paying for 50% of the bike with my summer job)
> 
> (The Secteur is definitely on my mind as well, I'll just have to test out the geometry later when I go to my LBS)


First off, don't fret about the 'barrage of questions'. They don't call this the beginner's corner for nothin'.. :wink5:

To answer your question correctly, it takes more than providing a number of cogs at the rear to get gearing right for an individual. Terrain and fitness are the primary considerations, with style of riding, another. 

The goal is to match the gearing to those considerations, so (to illustrate the point) it's entirely possible to have a 10 speed drivetrain _not_ match your needs, while an 8 might.

One thing you'll want to check on the bikes of interest is the cranksets. I could be mistaken, but believe all will be compacts with 50/ 34 tooth chainrings. If this is the case, it represents a decent compromise for most riders, and assuming you're of 'average' fitness living in hilly (bit not mountainous) terrain, this along with a 12-28 (or similar) 9 speed cassette/ drivetrain _should_ suite your needs. 

Keep in mind that I made some assumptions/ generalizations here, so take my recommendation with a grain of salt. Once you've narrowed the field, discussed your needs with your LBS (definitely, do that) and provide us with more specifics (year, make, model) re: the bikes, we can make more specific recommendations.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

If you do decide to go with Tiagra, see if the LBS has (or can order) your size in the 2012 models. You may be able to get the Tiagra group (since there were not any major changes to Tiagra from '12 to '13 that I know of) at closer to a '13 Sora price. As was mentioned, if you don't want the thumb tabs then you will have to get the '13 Sora, but either year of Tiagra is fine.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

Rhetorical question but have you considered a hybrid road bike? 

Don’t mean to shake up what you’ve been thinking but if your use is going to be mainly for commuting short(ish) distances and running errands, it may be worth some thought. 

They are less expensive, lower geared, more upright (which is good for shorter distances), better able to negotiate different types of terrain, have beefier wheels and tires, good clearances for fenders and a rack, look less dorky with a mirror attached, etc. 

The Allez (and others you mentioned) are designed more for sport and fitness. Just something to be aware of and consider when you visit the LBS.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I took one of my bikes from 9-speed to 10-speed a few years ago when the old shifters started missing shifts.

I notice that cassettes and chains cost me a lot more. 9 cogs is already a lot. As mentioned above, you do need to choose the right 9 cogs. True of a 10-speed drivetrain as well.

FWIW, I think hybrids suck. The things they do that road bikes don't are waste more energy and make my shoulder hurt if I ride for a half hour. They can also be hard to set up to fit someone who pedals continuously.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I took one of my bikes from 9-speed to 10-speed a few years ago when the old shifters started missing shifts.
> 
> I notice that cassettes and chains cost me a lot more. 9 cogs is already a lot. As mentioned above, you do need to choose the right 9 cogs. True of a 10-speed drivetrain as well.
> 
> FWIW, I think hybrids suck. The things they do that road bikes don't are waste more energy and make my shoulder hurt if I ride for a half hour. They can also be hard to set up to fit someone who pedals continuously.


I respectfully disagree. 

They don’t suck, they are very far from sucking and they have a good purpose. And it seems to me that their purpose is more in line with what the OP describes as his intended use. He didn’t say he’d be doing 50+ mile hammer fitness group rides, just tooling around town running errands and commuting to class. I’d reach for my hybrid in those cases. 

And I’m surprised to hear you think they are harder to set up to fit…seems to me that they don’t need to be as dialed in as a road bike would, so it would be the opposite. And I don’t think the OP needs to be concerned with lost energy. Again, it’s not going to be a long and hilly drop me if you can fitness ride. They are lower geared so he’ll actually conserve energy if he needs to. He won’t lose much in 10 or less miles.

Don’t get me wrong, IMO a race bike is more fun to ride but a hybrid seems like a better choice to me so I thought the OP would want to know of that option. 

OP, if you’re going to wear spandex for most rides, go with a race oriented bike. If you plan to wear regular clothing, consider a hybrid. That’s not completely true and is a bit of a joke but just a bit. The point is that a race bike has its purpose, as does a hybrid.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BostonG said:


> ... a race bike has its purpose, as does a hybrid.


FWIW, I agree with BostonG on this. I'm not suggesting to the OP that he abandon considering race/ relaxed geo bikes, but I think the points made lend more than enough legitimacy to considering a hybrid.

IMO/E they _are_ generally cheaper, easier to set up and will suite many casual/ recreational riders needs quite well.

OP: test rides are free, so the only cost is to you is time, but well spent if it helps you make a better buying decision.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

Yes, a hybrid is also on the plate. But I do want to use my bike for fitness purposes while commuting. Will I be in spandex and going on 50+ hammer fitness group rides, definitely not. But I really like drop handlebars compared to flats, and if there is a hybrid that has those, that would be something I'd definitely look into.

As for the drivetrain, what should I look for a 5"10 guy who is somewhat fit (I'm trying to get more fit), weights ≈145-150lbs, and lives in a somewhat hilly area. Because if I'm going with the Allez Elite vs Sports route, my choices are between a 12-28 Tiagra 10-set vs 12-27 Sora 9-set. I'll probably end up going with the Sport for cost alone but just curious because I always assumed more the better in terms of options in various environments.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Will I be in spandex and going on 50+ hammer fitness group rides, definitely not.


Tut tut tut my dear boy. Don’t be so hasty with your cycling future. I mean you’ll have the bike. OK, maybe not a hammerfest but after acclimating, consider a spandex clad (beginner) group ride, you may be surprised. 




mrwheezy117 said:


> I really like drop handlebars compared to flats, and if there is a hybrid that has those, that would be something I'd definitely look into.


I think the closest thing to what you describe would be a relaxed geometry road bike (like a Giant Defy or Specialized Secteur). 

But ride all 3 types (and remember the type of riding you’ll be doing most often, even if the race bike is the most fun to test ride, will you be happy taking it on a 2 mile ride to the coffee shop?) – road oriented hybrid, relaxed geo road bike, standard/race geo road bike. And not just around the block. Take them on long rides and hit some hills too. 




mrwheezy117 said:


> I always assumed more the better in terms of options in various environments.


It’s the opposite thought for me, less gears and tighter ratios. But you need to have the strength, power, and fitness to get to less. I haven’t looked at those specific bikes but will assume they both are compact cranks (50/34). At your weight and assuming an ok level of fitness, either set should work for ya but again, best thing would be to find a nice hill near the shop and see for yourself.

Best of luck. Have fun.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

It may be frowned on by the cycling elites, but you certainly can do fitness riding on a hybrid. Before I got my Allez, I rode for several months on my GT hybrid for fitness purposes. It was what got me into good enough riding shape that I could be confident in getting the right thing when I got a road bike. Though not nearly as effficient/stiff as a road bike, I had no problem getting my hybrid up to 17+ mph average solo rides for 1 hour plus. My hands would go a little numb due to the lack of hand positions, but some bar ends could make up for that. A pair of dual use pedals (platform one side and SPD on the other) and you are good to go. Shoot, my first triathlon was on my fat tire hybrid, and I held my own in it. As I said before, I love my Allez and would recommend it to anyone for fitness/training or even low-level racing. But as a commuter it sucks, my $300 GT hybrid is much better. 

Personally I think a purchase such as these should be made first on the primary use, which in your case is commuting. You are going to make a lot of compromises going after a more race-inspired bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> ... my choices are between a 12-28 Tiagra 10-set vs 12-27 Sora 9-set.


Most of this post has already been addressed, so I'll just add that the difference between these two likely comes down to the addition of ~16 tooth cog on the 10 speed, its deletion on the 9 speed. In other words, you'd probably never notice the difference.

Bringing the hybrid back into the convo, they generally come with less cogs (generally, 8 or 9 speed) and lower gearing when compared to drop bar bikes. For a commuter/ first bike, given that you're 'somewhat fit', this may initially offer some advantages. As you build saddle time and fitness, you may look to tightening up the gearing a little.

As a couple of us mentioned previously, much of the advice offered goes on the premise that the drop bar bikes come equipped with compact cranksets. Hybrids would be equipped with either compacts or triples (~50/40/30T rings).


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Funny enough, I saw my PT about my shoulder today. He suggested that until it's better, I avoid riding with my hands in the palms-down position. But I'm fine to keep doing pretty much whatever I want palms-in.

One of the things that I think tends to get confused in these discussions is that not all road bikes are racing bikes. If a person wants to sit more upright, fine - road bikes can be set up that way. I find hybrids harder to set up for me because they have a mile-tall head tube and often riser bars. Last time I borrowed one, I had the (ugly, heavy, adjustable) stem set all the way in the down position and I actually stripped the controls off the bars and flipped them over. I still didn't like it. Lately, they've even got some miserable imitation of front suspension making the front ends even higher. And at the end of the day, the bike still has bars that only offer me one place to put my hands, and it's not the orientation I want if I'm spending more time on the bike. So yeah, harder to set up. While I certainly prefer a road bike that's actually set up for me, at least with drop bars I can set the saddle height and have a better chance of finding a hand position in the right vicinity. When it is set up for me, they're "have my cake and eat it too" handlebars. Cruising position? Yeah. High-effort position? Yeah, it's there too. Climbing position? Check.

I guess the tl;dr version of the post is that drop bars are awesome.

I do have a flat handlebar bike that I love. It's got a real suspension fork and 2.25" knobbies. So it's not that I think all flat handlebar bikes suck. I just don't see a purpose for one that I can't take further off-road than my cyclocross bike but still isn't very efficient or much fun on the road.

FWIW, I think the thing that makes it hard to ride a road bike a couple miles to the coffee shop is that people often insist on using clipless pedals with them. Just like putting the bars down low, this isn't something that somebody's holding a gun to my head and making me do; my commuter gets clips and straps and I ride it in whatever shoes and clothes I happen to be wearing.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

I went into my LBS to try a Secteur, and it felt great! The depth was perfect and I think any lower and commuting would have been terrible.

What really surprised me was that coming from thick mtn wheels and frames to road bikes, the steering is to say the least, extremely, sensitive. Definitely a learning curve but test riding did give me some what of a rush so maybe my cycling future isn't so closed....

So I'm probably going for a Secteur at this point since the geometry fits well and it can always be adjusted later. But the LBS offered me a 2012 Secteur Elite (with Tiagra shifters) for $1179 or I can just get the 2013 Secteur Sports for about 900-990$ish (not too sure yet). Which would be the better option/deal?

Also this sounds extremely newbish but kickstands? Necessary? I grew up without them so it feels weird to not have them but feels weird to put a kickstand on such a fine bike..


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

What was the MSRP on the '12 Elite? The '13 Elite is a $1200 bike - seems like there should be more wiggle room on the price if they want their '12s off the floor.

If the '13 Secteur has the new model of shifters, I don't know that I'd think it worthwhile to spend more. It's not like you get nicer wheels. I think the crank on the '12 Elite is nicer, but I don't think it's $200-$280 nicer. Hard to say without riding the new Sora shifters myself. I'm confident in the derailleurs, but the shifters are a bit of an unknown quantity to me. That really only leaves the cockpit and IMO, that's not a great place to bolt extra money unless you've been riding a while and are spending it on a specific set of handlebars that you know you like or something like that - often, it's stuff people swap out, and based on preference, rather than some objective thing.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

Th MSRP was about $1379 ish. They seem to have a significantly high mark ups on the MSRP. Is this normal for a bike store to do?  I had no idea the '13 Elite was a $1200 bike. The deal seems pretty shuddy to me now that I think about it.

But their '13 Sport is only $900 Specialized Secteur Sport Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain So I have no idea what's going on there.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

mrwheezy117 said:


> test riding did give me some what of a rush so maybe my cycling future isn't so closed


One little test ride and you experienced some joy eh? Well, I feel it safe to say “welcome to road riding. See you at the group ride soon”, because once you decide on a bike and get it, it may not be long before you find yourself getting up early to go ride when it’s quite and peaceful, or noticing cycling related things like a nicely paved road while walking somewhere, or driving through an area that makes you think “this would be a great place to ride”, and many other thoughts. 




mrwheezy117 said:


> the steering is to say the least, extremely, sensitive


If you think the steering was responsive on the Secteur, you should definitely try a racier frame – just to see what it’s like and for the fun of it. Sounds like your LBS is a Specialize shop - the Allez is a really fun bike to ride so take my word for it, you’ll be happy you gave it a try. Only danger is that you may find yourself working overtime to afford a hybrid for commuting/errands and a racy bike for fitness and fun. 




mrwheezy117 said:


> Also this sounds extremely newbish but kickstands?


Aside from it not being fashionable, they add bulk and weight, some aero drag, can get caught on things, and are just an ugly accessory on a road bike (IMO). I don’t think it adds enough benefit to be worth having one.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Th MSRP was about $1379 ish. They seem to have a significantly high mark ups on the MSRP. Is this normal for a bike store to do?  I had no idea the '13 Elite was a $1200 bike. The deal seems pretty shuddy to me now that I think about it.
> 
> But their '13 Sport is only $900 Specialized Secteur Sport Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain So I have no idea what's going on there.


2013 prices actually dropped on some Specialized models, but the catch is they de-spec'd in some areas (ex: Shimano cranksets replaced with FSA Tempo). However, IMO at ~15% off MSRP, $1179 for the '12 Elite doesn't represent a particularly good buy.  

Because the '13 Sport has the new style STI's, I suggest test riding it along with the earlier model Sora (with thumb tabs) and decide from there. Given your immediate intended uses, I think any of these bikes will not only suite those purposes, but will also meet your future needs. And by that time, you'd likely be looking at that 'next bike' anyway.

Bottom line, all things considered, buy the cheapest model that fits well and you enjoy riding.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Th MSRP was about $1379 ish. They seem to have a significantly high mark ups on the MSRP. Is this normal for a bike store to do?  I had no idea the '13 Elite was a $1200 bike. The deal seems pretty shuddy to me now that I think about it.
> 
> But their '13 Sport is only $900 Specialized Secteur Sport Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain So I have no idea what's going on there.


I think you are getting hosed on the pricing. I'd offer them $1k for the '12 and see what they say. I got my '12 Allez Comp Apex for $1100+tax in August... just for comparison. 

As for the '13, unless there is some huge run on them and they cannot keep them in stock (which I have not heard about) you should not be paying more than MSRP. Honestly you should be paying less. Personally, I would look up a few other Specialized dealers within a reasonable radius from you and give them a call. Since you now know what you want, feel out what they would charge. Nothing wrong with comparison shopping, especially since there is some funky stuff going on.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I had some time today, so out of curiosity I stopped by one of my LBS's and test rode a 2013 Sora equipped Roubaix and Tricross. Neither were tuned very well, but (I think) the rides gave me some insight into the groupsets level of refinement and general performance.

I can say with some confidence that while 2013 Sora is a step up from Shimano's previous versions, it doesn't match the new Tiagra in refinement or performance. However, with everything designed/ built to a price point, given the price range of these bikes, I think the new Sora will easily meet most recreational riders needs. 

On a somewhat separate note, not trying to dissuade the OP from the aforementioned bikes, but the Tricross (or similar) may be worth considering. The Sport is comparably equipped, has rack and fender mounts and runs 32c tires. Sport Disc (obviously) adds disc brakes. Both make for decent commuters, IMO.

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/tricross/tricrosssporttriple


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

LBS doesn't have the triple for me to test out but from the pictures (I know terrible way to judge), the geo doesn't seem to differ too much from the Secteur. Can somebody beg to differ?

Mean while the Sports Tricross is on par in terms of price with the Secteur Elite, so I'll think on it but I'm really deciding right now between the Secteur Elite Compact and the Sport. 
Specialized Secteur Sport Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain
Specialized Secteur Elite Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain

I guess I'll have to decide tomorrow if the extra $250 is really worth the Tiagra sets. I'll also be replacing the brake pads with Amazon.com: Kool Stop Supra 2 Bicycle Brake Shoes (Threaded, Salmon): Sports & Outdoors since I've heard some bad reviews about the Tektro stock pads.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> *LBS doesn't have the triple for me to test out but from the pictures (I know terrible way to judge), the geo doesn't seem to differ too much from the Secteur. Can somebody beg to differ?*
> 
> Mean while the Sports Tricross is on par in terms of price with the Secteur Elite, so I'll think on it but I'm really deciding right now between the Secteur Elite Compact and the Sport.
> Specialized Secteur Sport Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain
> ...


If by 'triple' you mean the Secteur triple, there's no difference in geo or frameset. 

If you haven't already done so, I suggest riding the sport and Elite back to back before deciding. Personally, I think 2013 Sora will suite you fine.

The Koolstops you linked to are for canti's, so won't work with the dual pivot Tektro's. You need these:
http://www.amazon.com/Dura-Type-Bra...=1350303832&sr=1-3&keywords=koolstop+duratype


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

Sorry for not making it clear. By triple I meant the Tricross that somebody recommended me earlier.

As for riding both the Elite and Sport, the LBS only has the '12 Elite. The '13 they have to special order. But to me I don't think I'll notice a difference until I get more into it. So the question is will I eventually feel that the extra $250 is worth the better group set?

And thank you for the brakes!! (Also the brakes seem to be different on the elite and the sport)


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> Sorry for not making it clear. By triple I meant the Tricross that somebody recommended me earlier.
> 
> As for riding both the Elite and Sport, the LBS only has the '12 Elite. The '13 they have to special order. But to me I don't think I'll notice a difference until I get more into it. So the question is will I eventually feel that the extra $250 is worth the better group set?
> 
> And thank you for the brakes!! (Also the brakes seem to be different on the elite and the sport)


Ah, gotcha. Yes the Tricross geo differs from the Secteur, but not in ways that'll appreciably affect fit. 

Where you'll see a difference is in ride/ handling. The Tricross run's 32c tires and has a slacker head tube angle and longer chainstays - together producing a somewhat smoother ride and slower (more predictable, some say) steering/ handling.

I'm the one that offered the Tricross (or a similar CX bike) for your consideration, but if you think the Secteur is a better fit for you in regards to intended uses (or, you just like it better) go with it. 

As far as whether Tiagra is worth $250, I would say yes if your long term goals were to do more distance riding.. or just more riding in general. For your immediate plans, I think Sora will do you fine. And actually, I think Sora will also meet those long term goals as well, but lacking in some refinement. 

Re: differences in brakesets between the Sport and Elite, I wouldn't fret over it. Save for some minor finish/ weight differences dual pivots all operate the same. Replacing the stock pads will make the real difference.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

I'm struggling with my opinion on groupset for you. At first my thougth was Sora is fine for you - good even. And then I thought, well...thre are hills you'll be riding and it's nice to have a bit more refinement when shifting a good amount, which you may be doing because of the hills. Sora will work fine for that but I guess I'd have to say if you can swing the extra $ (remember you'll also need some $ for accessories), you should go for it. Yeah, I'm going to stick with that - Go for Tiagra if you can but don't let it bother you if you end up getting Sora. 

Only problem with test riding teh Sora and Tiagra back to back is that one may be tuned better than the other and seeing as how you are a newer rider, may not be able to really tell. The good news is that they'll both work for you so you'll be happy with whichever you decide to go with. 

Regarding brake pads I must say, I think way too many are down on those pads for no good reason. They work just fine. I would save my money and keep them until they are ready to be replaced. Maybe if I were 250lbs and barreling down a crazy long steep hill I'd want something better, otherwise, their stoppign power is good. For someone of your weight there shouldn't be any issue at all - but try them for yourself.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

I finally ordered it! A Specialized Secteur Elite Compact (Specialized Secteur Elite Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain). 
Apparently there were only 7 in the country left—six now. I'm quite surprised that there are such limited stock for the 2013 model. I figured that if I was going to ride for the long-term, I might as well invest in a better groupset that's more reliable and smoother than upgrade later down the road. 

Thank you guys so much for all the help and putting up with a newb.

One last (probably not the last) question is would these brake pads fit my Tektro R540? KOOL STOP DURA SALMON ROAD BICYCLE BRAKE PAD INSERTS NEW KS-DURASA | eBay

And anything I should do to my bike once I get it?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> *I finally ordered it!* A Specialized Secteur Elite Compact (Specialized Secteur Elite Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain).
> Apparently there were only 7 in the country left—six now. I'm quite surprised that there are such limited stock for the 2013 model. I figured that if I was going to ride for the long-term, I might as well invest in a better groupset that's more reliable and smoother than upgrade later down the road.
> 
> Thank you guys so much for all the help and putting up with a newb.


Congrats!! :thumbsup:

Pics when you get it.... :yesnod:



mrwheezy117 said:


> One last (probably not the last) question is *would these brake pads fit my Tektro R540?* KOOL STOP DURA SALMON ROAD BICYCLE BRAKE PAD INSERTS NEW KS-DURASA | eBay


Yes, they will.



mrwheezy117 said:


> And anything I should do to my bike once I get it?


Yes. Ride it... A LOT! :thumbsup:

Well, that and get a saddle bag and fill it with all the 'essentials' (tire levers, tubes, patch kit...).


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## bballr4567 (Jul 17, 2012)

Exactly the bike I would of bought had I bought new. I got my '11 Sport Compact as a year old model for 20% off and couldnt pass it up. 

The new Tiagra is effectively last years 105. I've confirmed it at a bike shop with an employee. The only difference is the color from what we all could tell. You wont need to upgrade it unless it breaks.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

mrwheezy117 said:


> I finally ordered it! A Specialized Secteur Elite Compact (Specialized Secteur Elite Compact - Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Apex - The Bicycle Chain).
> Apparently there were only 7 in the country left—six now. I'm quite surprised that there are such limited stock for the 2013 model. I figured that if I was going to ride for the long-term, I might as well invest in a better groupset that's more reliable and smoother than upgrade later down the road.
> 
> Thank you guys so much for all the help and putting up with a newb.
> ...


Glad to see you went with the Tiagra. $250 now is cheap vs. buying a new bike or trying to upgrade the components in the future. I was going to say that unless the $250 was budget prohibitive to go ahead and go for it up front... but you already made that call.

I hope you enjoy the bike, I get the feeling you will. I have the Tektro brakes on my Allez Apex, and personally if you haven't bought the new ones yet I wouldn't bother. Unless you plan on doing a lot of riding in adverse conditions (rain, mud, dust, etc.) the stock pads are fine. The Kool Stops will be better in wet conditions, so if you are going to ride it rain or shine or may get caught out in the rain and ride it back then it may be worth it.

As for the "other things", not sure what you have already. The basics are obvious, helmet and pump are basic necessities. For the riding you are doing (not racing) I would suggest a small pump that has a hose, built in tire gauge, and a foot stand but mounts to your frame. The extra size/weight is not ideal for racing, but for what you are doing not having to mess with a race pump would probably be nice. Lights are a good idea if you plan to ride before/after the sun is up. Water bottle cage(s) and bottle(s) are good for fitness riding and distances.

Unless you are totally hands-off on the mechanics, you will also want some tire levers and either a bike multitool or some allen wrenches and a few other misc. tools. From there you may want a bike bag to hold a spare tube and/or patch kit, misc. odds and ends. From there it is gear for riding, upgrades (seat would be a likely first, wheels etc. down the road) or anything else you want to do. Sunglasses are a good idea if you get to where you are going pretty fast, I wear clear ones in the mornings when it is dark. When I commute, I wear pant straps on my lets so my pants don't get in the gears/cranks. Just some ideas.


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## mrwheezy117 (Oct 9, 2012)

I finally got my bike!!

Only problem is that the front derailleur does not shift!  And the back derailleur is so harsh, it clunks when I shift it. 

I'm going to safely assume that the bike is in serious need of adjustment/tuning. Nonetheless, riding it was AMAZING. I got a Cateye wired cadence computer and Kool Stops, it's very nice. Think I might head to a nearby lake that's 30 minutes away for my first trip this weekend with a friend. I just hope that when I go back to my LBS tomorrow it'll be a simple fix because it would suck to have a bike broken already.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mrwheezy117 said:


> I finally got my bike!!
> 
> Only problem is that the front derailleur does not shift!  And the back derailleur is so harsh, it clunks when I shift it.
> 
> I'm going to safely assume that the bike is in serious need of adjustment/tuning. Nonetheless, riding it was AMAZING. I got a Cateye wired cadence computer and Kool Stops, it's very nice. Think I might head to a nearby lake that's 30 minutes away for my first trip this weekend with a friend. I just hope that when I go back to my LBS tomorrow it'll be a simple fix because it would suck to have a bike broken already.


Congrats (again) on your new Secteur! I think the KoolStops and Cateye are great additions as well. 

No worries on the shifting problems. They're common and there's an excellent chance that what you describe only requires a couple of simple adjustments. Still, the bike shouldn't have been delivered to you in that condition. 

When you pick the bike up, I suggest that you test ride it, shifting through the gears prior to heading back home. If there's a problem, go back and have them readjust as necessary, but I'm confident this will be easily remedied. 

Let us know how the ride goes, and don't forget the pics!


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