# Wheelsets?



## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Im currently running vuleta xrp pros. Im beginning my research on wheelsets. I would like to stay under $1500 for a training set but would spend more if I need to. It seems alot of people recommend built sets. I do like to race on strava so alot of my training is competitive. I want fast durable wheels that are an investment that will stay around with good value. Any info or if you can point me to some good threads?


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

We can make some recommendations, but we need more info first...

How much do you weigh? 
What is your terrain usually like? 
What to you hope to gain by getting a new wheelset?


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Zen Cyclery said:


> We can make some recommendations, but we need more info first...
> 
> How much do you weigh?
> What is your terrain usually like?
> What to you hope to gain by getting a new wheelset?


-135 lbs.
-Mostly smooth roads with the occasional rough ones that I don't want to have to worry about having issues with. Most hills are short climbs with a few cat 3&4 climbs. A nice 20 mile flat that I ride alot.
-knowing my wheels are not holding me back, worry free, low maintenance, wheels that are a nice investment


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

Well, it sounds like you could go a few different directions with this one. You could stay away from carbon and get a nice alloy setup. It wouldn't be quite as rigid or aero as carbon, but you could get something that is pretty versatile and well under your price range. Something like the Velocity A23 laced to White Industries hubs could be worth looking at. 
On the other hand you could go carbon, but you would have to pay a pretty penny for that, but it would be the most rigid and aero way to go.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Are my hopes for durability holding me back from better choices? What are we talking performance of carbon over alloy with time over distance and durability?


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Thinking of Chris king r45 24hole, A23 rims,sapim-cx spokes. Found a used set with 500 miles on them. What are they worth? Should I save my money and put it towards carbon? I don't want to be selling these to upgrade in the near future.


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

You are lightweight and can use most any wheels and probably not have a lot of durability issues.

The real issue is, if you plan on buying carbon clinchers and doing a lot of descending (which it sounds like you probably do in your area), that the carbon clincher brake tracks tend to wear out quicker than their aluminum counterparts. So something to consider.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

I'm guessing the premium for carbon is not going to be justified until I am a better rider. Correct me if I am wrong. Since I am light what would be recommendations for a faster rim then the A23?


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

ROL Race SL; ROL Volants are $419.00 a set Volant - Alloy Clincher Wheelsets - ROL Bicycle Wheels - ROL Wheels


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

mow4cash said:


> I'm guessing the premium for carbon is not going to be justified until I am a better rider. Correct me if I am wrong. Since I am light what would be recommendations for a faster rim then the A23?


I guess it depends on what you mean by faster... If you want something considerably more aero, you really have to get into the carbon realm, and obviously to get quality you have to spend quite a bit. However, by making that jump, you not only gain aerodynamics but stability on the flats as well. 

I do not think that going lighter will make you faster. If you were a pure climber, a shallow lightweight alloy hoop would be ideal. But your going to have to try to find some sort of balance of depth and weight, simply because of the terrain you ride.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Zen Cyclery said:


> I guess it depends on what you mean by faster... If you want something considerably more aero, you really have to get into the carbon realm, and obviously to get quality you have to spend quite a bit. However, by making that jump, you not only gain aerodynamics but stability on the flats as well.
> 
> I do not think that going lighter will make you faster. If you were a pure climber, a shallow lightweight alloy hoop would be ideal. But your going to have to try to find some sort of balance of depth and weight, simply because of the terrain you ride.


Would that balance be your Katmandu Custom Wheelset?


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

mow4cash said:


> Would that balance be your Katmandu Custom Wheelset?


That could be a good start. It You could always change the hoop from the XR270 to the XR300 though if you wanted to add a bit of aerodynamics to the mix.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Zen Cyclery said:


> That could be a good start. It You could always change the hoop from the XR270 to the XR300 though if you wanted to add a bit of aerodynamics to the mix.


What is the disadvantage of going more aero with xr300 over the xr270? Is the upgrade to alchemy hubs worth looking into? Are there other things I should be looking into? It seems alot of people are happy with xr270 and white hubs and I see no reason to get the Rol SL over custom. Thanks for your help there really needs to be a sticky thread about wheels for us newbies.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

mow4cash said:


> What is the disadvantage of going more aero with xr300 over the xr270? Is the upgrade to alchemy hubs worth looking into? Are there other things I should be looking into? It seems alot of people are happy with xr270 and white hubs and I see no reason to get the Rol SL over custom. Thanks for your help there really needs to be a sticky thread about wheels for us newbies.


The disadvantage of going with the slightly deeper rim is the fact that you will be adding some weight to the build. Weight which some may say is unnecessary.
The Alchemys hubs can be worth the upgrade but if your looking to keep things relatively cheap, then the Whites are a standout choice. They are slightly heavier, but durability is quite comparable.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

I narrowed down what I think are good choices. I will be using white ind hubs and sapim cx ray spokes. My rim choices are top pick first.
xr300
xr270
H Plus Son Archetype
velocity a23

my specs again
-135 lbs.
-Mostly smooth roads with the occasional rough ones that I don't want to have to worry about having issues with. Most hills are short climbs with a few cat 3&4 climbs. A nice 20 mile flat that I ride alot.
-knowing my wheels are not holding me back, worry free, low maintenance, wheels that are a nice investment

Im wondering if I should go wide profile or not? What would you guys pick If you were me?


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

With regards to the wider profile, I think it is a perk, but it shouldn't be the only reason that you buy a rim. With that said, I do like the A23 quite well, and we have had solid feedback from customers about them. They don't make too big of a difference on the straightaways, but many agree that cornering is a bit more stable and predictable on a wider hoop. Additionally, they can be super supple on rougher roads when they are setup tubeless.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Almost decided.

Hed C2
sapim cx-ray
white ind hubs

20/24 or 24/28?
radial up front?
ok to use alloy nips?


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## crosschecking (Sep 24, 2010)

Sorry, a bit of a threadjack here but I can't start my own thread. I seek a bit of advice. I have been riding a 2006 Giant TCR (mostly 105 group) for 3 years. I am happy with the frame and the components are decent. I always like the looks of the new bikes but for now I am content. I do want to upgrade the wheels as it came with Alex 220s. I haven't had major problems but I know that's one of my bikes weaker areas. I have nearly settled on Dura-Ace c24 clinchers. I do a few Duathlon and sprint tri races otherwise it's generally group rides or solo rides anywhere from 20 miles to 60 miles, maybe 60 or 70 miles per week. 6'0", 160 pounds, around 19 mph solo.

Two questions - I don't want to spend more than $1000 or so on wheels. Seems like the C24s will offer good performance but also be durable and are well regarded. Any other suggestions? Will I notice a difference in speed on say a 30 mile ride? My LBS had a set of Zipp 404s (not firecrest) on sale for $1400 and that was tempting but I think the C24s are better suited to my needs.

Also, I think I am better off investing in wheels rather than saving further for a new bike in a few years and I could always take the wheels with me even if I upgrade. Any holes in that idea? Thanks in advance.


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## morgan1819 (Nov 22, 2005)

crosschecking said:


> Sorry, a bit of a threadjack here but I can't start my own thread. I seek a bit of advice. I have been riding a 2006 Giant TCR (mostly 105 group) for 3 years. I am happy with the frame and the components are decent. I always like the looks of the new bikes but for now I am content. I do want to upgrade the wheels as it came with Alex 220s. I haven't had major problems but I know that's one of my bikes weaker areas. I have nearly settled on Dura-Ace c24 clinchers. I do a few Duathlon and sprint tri races otherwise it's generally group rides or solo rides anywhere from 20 miles to 60 miles, maybe 60 or 70 miles per week. 6'0", 160 pounds, around 19 mph solo.
> 
> Two questions - I don't want to spend more than $1000 or so on wheels. Seems like the C24s will offer good performance but also be durable and are well regarded. Any other suggestions? Will I notice a difference in speed on say a 30 mile ride? My LBS had a set of Zipp 404s (not firecrest) on sale for $1400 and that was tempting but I think the C24s are better suited to my needs.
> 
> Also, I think I am better off investing in wheels rather than saving further for a new bike in a few years and I could always take the wheels with me even if I upgrade. Any holes in that idea? Thanks in advance.


You can go a couple directions on this one. Since you already have a set of wheels on the bike that you can run as an everyday 'training' set, you have the option of buying a race day type of wheelset, such as the 404, or any other 40-60mm carbon wheelset. There are actually some decent deals on eBay as well (check out the great Chinese wheels threads). 

If you want something that you can ride everyday, and race as well, then the C24's would be a great choice. You could also do a custom build, such as a HED C2 or BHS C472W rims, White Ind. hubs, and Sapim CX-Ray spokes. 

If you see yourself progressing and getting serious about racing where every second counts ... get the 404's you have available locally.

Otherwise, the C24's or HED C2 or BHS C472W rims, White Ind. hubs, and Sapim CX-Ray spokes would be tough to beat.


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## crosschecking (Sep 24, 2010)

morgan1819 said:


> You can go a couple directions on this one. Since you already have a set of wheels on the bike that you can run as an everyday 'training' set, you have the option of buying a race day type of wheelset, such as the 404, or any other 40-60mm carbon wheelset. There are actually some decent deals on eBay as well (check out the great Chinese wheels threads).
> 
> *If you want something that you can ride everyday, and race as well, then the C24's would be a great choice.* You could also do a custom build, such as a HED C2 or BHS C472W rims, White Ind. hubs, and Sapim CX-Ray spokes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response. Right now I don't see serious racing as likely in the next several years and I want something I can ride everyday and enjoy but that will be fine for a few races/tris here and there. I would just use my current ones as backups or occasional training ones but not everyday. I believe that C24s are more suited to that that something like the Zipps, correct? And I would want to get a new cassette so that going back and forth is easy, right? Thanks again.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Wheels really arent an investment... its just money spent, you wont get the returns you guys are expecting from wheels. If you time your ride with your current wheels, and time it with new wheels, you'll be within a reasonable margin of error between both. What you had for breakfast will play a bigger role in speed. 

Spending 1500 bucks on wheels will get you _seconds_ over a ride... buying new wheels for almost all riders is more about durability than anything else.


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## crosschecking (Sep 24, 2010)

TomH said:


> Wheels really arent an investment... its just money spent, you wont get the returns you guys are expecting from wheels. If you time your ride with your current wheels, and time it with new wheels, you'll be within a reasonable margin of error between both. What you had for breakfast will play a bigger role in speed.
> 
> Spending 1500 bucks on wheels will get you _seconds_ over a ride... buying new wheels for almost all riders is more about durability than anything else.


Tom, I appreciate the perspective. The C24s seem to be around $1000 right now. I am hoping for a very slight improvement in performance but I also hope the wheels will "feel" a bit better (reviews for C24s seem to mention this) and help slightly on the hills. If those are achievable goals (over my current Alex wheels), then I will be satisfied. Alex 220s are about 1800g and C24s seem to be about 1400g. Do you think that's realistic?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

You'll feel something. New, stiff wheels feel like they spin up faster. Its a good feeling, everyone usually appreciates it. Tangibly its not a big gain though.

Dont get me wrong, you'll absolutely feel like you're going faster. The C24's seem to be holding up extremely well, shimano makes good stuff. Just dont expect to slap them on and be killing climbs that you couldnt before.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

So I went with hedC2's laced 20r/24-2x with sapim cx ray to white ind. hubs. Put on ritchey rimstrips and cont 4000s rubber. Quick ride with them today and they feel nice. Things I noticed was faster coasting, felt taller and seemed to work a little better over 20mph. I shaved 1.5 lbs off my bike. When I back pedal in the stand the wheel doesn't move now. Ill try to get some pics and weight up soon. I think I should have these wheels for quite sometime. Now I need to save for a carbon set to add .1mph to my average speed.


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## FuelForThought (May 13, 2012)

mow4cash said:


> So I went with hedC2's laced 20r/24-2x ....


Where did you get a HED C2 in 20 holes drilling? I thought that HED was not selling 18h or 20h rims to anyone.

Looking to purchase wheels in 20front/24rear and I am slowly leaning towards the Archetype for the above reason.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

Prowheelbuilder had some old stock. Send them an email. By the way I'm real happy with the wheelset.


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## FuelForThought (May 13, 2012)

Thanks for the tip. Did you get PWB to build your wheels? How happy were you with the service? I have heard mixed opinions on them.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

I was real happy with them. They answered my emails and did not screw up the specialty order. Took a week for them to build. The wheels were shipped fedex express and packed well, hand delivered by a plain clothes supervisor. I only have 350 miles on the wheels so time will tell if they were built good. So far I would be happy to use them again.


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## FuelForThought (May 13, 2012)

Out of curiosity, what made you decide against the Archetype?


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

The good reviews and popularity of the HED. I know luxe wheel works is using the archtype but I would not be surprised it's because HED is being selective on who they sell to. If you want to save money I would go with the A23 but I spent the extra for a nicer finish. The archtype do look nice and I doubt luxe would use them if they were not good.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

I am in the same situation that you were in a couple of weeks ago. I already have two sets of aluminum clinchers (pre-built) in the 1400s gm. So, when looking to get a custom-built wheelset, I was hoping to get it below 1400 gm (I weigh 140lbs at 5'8"). 

I was seriously considering the HED Belgium C2 also (suggestion from another member and good reviews), but just couldn't get the setup below 1400gms. They are relatively heavy compared to other choices out there. 

So, I am considering Stan's 400, Chris King r45s, with the Sapim CX-rays. Weight without QRs/tires come out to be approximately 1285 gms.


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## mow4cash (May 29, 2012)

I went with hedc2 because I wanted an all around durable wheel. If I happen to come up with more money I need to spend I will get a climbing set and aero set. Ask yourself what you want to get out of your new wheelset. Then ask on here which set would better suit your needs and what terrain you ride. Don't worry about trying to beat the weight of your old set there's alot more to a wheelset then the weight.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

Cni2i said:


> So, I am considering Stan's 400, Chris King r45s, with the Sapim CX-rays. Weight without QRs/tires come out to be approximately 1285 gms.


You could swap the Kings with Alchemys and save a bit of weight.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

mow4cash said:


> I went with hedc2 because I wanted an all around durable wheel. If I happen to come up with more money I need to spend I will get a climbing set and aero set. Ask yourself what you want to get out of your new wheelset. Then ask on here which set would better suit your needs and what terrain you ride. Don't worry about trying to beat the weight of your old set there's alot more to a wheelset then the weight.


I agree with you 100% about weight. I realize it's not the only thing one should focus on....but I guess my point was that I didn't want to get another aluminum clincher that weighs the same as my current fulcrum racing zeros. I like my racing zeros, but wanted to try to get a wheelset that was a little bit lighter and always wanted to try CCK hubs 

BTW: if you don't mind, how much did your wheels end up weighing without tires/QRs? Thanks.


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

Cni2i said:


> So, I am considering Stan's 400, Chris King r45s, with the Sapim CX-rays. Weight without QRs/tires come out to be approximately 1285 gms.


There is light, and then there is too light. Especially when it comes to aluminum clinchers. You can get a really light wheelset with the Stan's rims. But, there is no magic formula in those rims that makes them so much lighter than everyone else. What you will find is the Stan rims are soft and you will most likely feel the rear wheel move around on you when sprinting or doing hard standing climbing efforts.

I'd take the 50 to 100 gram weight penalty and get the sturdier rims.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

nightfend said:


> There is light, and then there is too light. Especially when it comes to aluminum clinchers. You can get a really light wheelset with the Stan's rims. But, there is no magic formula in those rims that makes them so much lighter than everyone else. What you will find is the Stan rims are soft and you will most likely feel the rear wheel move around on you when sprinting or doing hard standing climbing efforts.
> 
> I'd take the 50 to 100 gram weight penalty and get the sturdier rims.


So even the "newer" Stan's have this flex issue? I would agree with you and don't mind a 1350-1400 gm wheelset IF they are indeed stiffer and more durable. I have just been getting mixed messages about the Stan's....especially the 340s. So, that's why I was considering the 400 series. Other cyclist heavier than me (150-170s) have told me that they've put few thousand miles on their 340s and they've held up fine 

Then I hear from other cyclists like yourself that say the weight advantage is lost b/c of the flexing issue and potential poor durability (cracked rims, pulled spokes, etc....). 

I would love to go with the HED Belgium C2s, but that setup would be close to 1500 gms....heavier than my fulcrum racing zeros ltd. competition edition (~1410).


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

I was talking about the 340's. Have not seen or ridden on the 400 rims.


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## thegock (May 16, 2006)

*Reynolds*



mow4cash said:


> Im currently running vuleta xrp pros. Im beginning my research on wheelsets. I would like to stay under $1500 for a training set but would spend more if I need to. It seems alot of people recommend built sets. I do like to race on strava so alot of my training is competitive. I want fast durable wheels that are an investment that will stay around with good value. Any info or if you can point me to some good threads?



I have had three sets of Mavics (ES, SL and Equipe's) for the last five years on my road bikes. Recently, I got a new "rain bike" and I put the Reynolds Attacks on it. The ride seems a bit smoother over rough road. Just a month ago, I got a set of the Reynolds MVC 32's for my C-50. 

The Attacks were $900 new and the MVC 32's were $960 delivered very lightly (imperceptably) used. The MVC 32's are measurably faster than the Mavic ES' that they replaced according to my Garmin. Plus they are bling.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

nightfend said:


> I was talking about the 340's. Have not seen or ridden on the 400 rims.


Thanks for the clarification. The 400s are relatively new I guess....haven't heard too many reviews about them, only that have a higher weight limit than the 340s. Although I am 140lbs, I may still go to the 400s just to be on the safe side.....and the weight is still pretty minimal compared to other hoops.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

Here's a nice looking setup with the HED C2 and Red Chris King Hubs. I personally like the contrast with black rim/spokes and red hubs....


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

Cni2i said:


> Thanks for the clarification. The 400s are relatively new I guess....haven't heard too many reviews about them, only that have a higher weight limit than the 340s. Although I am 140lbs, I may still go to the 400s just to be on the safe side.....and the weight is still pretty minimal compared to other hoops.


Maybe go 400 on the rear and 340 on the front. The rear is where you need the stiffer wheel.


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