# Bottom bracket and crankset recommendations for Cervelo R3?



## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

Just bought a Cervelo R3 which comes stock with a Rotor 3DF crankset. Really like the bike and the Rotor 3DF crankset, but the crank arms are too long for me. Seems like the BBright standard that Cervelo employs on their bikes will somewhat limit my replacement options, but I think I’ve found some viable solutions. Since I’m completely unfamiliar with BBright, I think it would be helpful to get some guidance from the wrenches here in hopes of doing the fix correctly the first time. Thoughts? Any other good options or issues I’m overlooking? 

*Option 1:* 
Rotor 3D+ crankset 
Pros: this is the easiest swap out since the bottom bracket will not need to be replaced. This is a definitive upgrade compared to the stock cranks and other options under consideration
Cons: expensive for a crankset - will set me back about $600 

*Option 2:* 
Rotor 3D24 Crankset + Rotor BB4624L 
Pros: Less expensive, the crankset and BB swap will cost around $450 
Cons: slight weight penalty (no big deal). If I'm shelling out this kind of money, should I just go ahead and get the 3D+ for $150 more? not taking advantage of the BBright technology? 

*Option 3:* 
Shimano Ultegra FC-6800 crankset with Wheels MFG BB (ABEC-3 BB FOR 24MM (SHIMANO) CRANKS) 
Pros: Least expensive option at around $400, familiar with Ultegra cranks and overall Shimano performance/dependability
Cons: Looks like the Wheels MFG BB option is fairly new, so it doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of use cases/reviews to evaluate. Will this combination negate the supposed benefits of the specifically designed Rotor BB and cranks for the BBright standard?

*Notes:* 
- Rotor 3D30 crankset is not an option since they don’t come in the crank arm length I need 
- Wheels MFG BBright adapters with Enduro bearings don’t seem like a good option compared to using a bottom bracket made specifically for the BBright standard. 
- Considered doing the work myself, but I have no experience or tools for press fit BBs. Rather than investing in new tools and possibly messing up a nice bike while learning, I’ll have an LBS take care of this. Already doing a lot of other work on the bike — I just wanna ride the darn thing!


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

One nice thing with the Shimano 6800 series is that you can run compact, mid-compact or standard rings at a reasonable cost.

Have you checked E-Bay for a used crankset? The right size for you may have been the incorrect size for someone else.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks — ebay is certainly a fantastic resource. I’ve been actively selling and buying a lot of spare parts to help ease the transition from 10 to 11-speed drive trains and simply offset the cost of buying what I consider an expensive bike. Keeping an eye on Rotor cranksets, and once I make the swap, I’ll offer up the take-offs for sale. 

Shimano cranks will definitely ensure easy replacements. The stock Rotor crankset is 52/36 110BCD, with an 11/25 cassette. I have a 50/34 and 12/25 set-up on my other bikes. So far, I like the bigger gearing, but I won’t really be able to evaluate the difference until the cranks are properly fitting. If I stay with the Rotors, I can get a set of compact chainrings for $116 at R&A cycles if I decide to go back to a 50/34 set-up.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

I have an R5. I can tell you that your crank is almost certainly not a BBright crank.

There was a time when Rotor did make some cranks specifically for Cervelos and BBright but that was years ago. It's simply their standard crank that can work on a BB30 that uses one less spacer.

When you take your crank apart you will find one spacer on the drive side, on a BB30 setup you just add another spacer to the non drive side as well. BBright is just wider on the non drive side is all. More bottom bracket less spacer. Easy to understand right?

Your Rotor bottom bracket isn't very good. Mine only lasted a couple thousand miles before it started to creak a little. It's press-fit. Press-fit is junk. The correct replacement, no matter what crank you choose is a threaded clamping style bottom bracket. Enduro is the company that first came to the US market with this new style, they call it TorqTite. They make one for whatever crank you want as well. There's one for BB30 style cranks like the rotor crank and a different one for Shimano. Wheels Manufacturing, which uses Enduro bearings, now has a line of pretty much the same thing, licensed from Enduro. The Wheels stuff is cheaper, I have no experience with it yet, I'm sure it works fine if they have exactly what you need in this threaded clamping style similar to TorqTite. I personally use and have now installed many TorqTite bottom brackets on Cervelo BBright frames with perfect success all around.

So pick whatever kind of crank you want. Then pick the appropriate Enduro Torqtite bottom bracket for it (have to buy the tools as well). Or of course pick the similar one from Wheels if it saves you money or what not, just make sure it's the same exact technology.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

If it turns out a BB30 bottom bracket conversion is needed, look at Praxis. I have not heard any bad reviews.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Pretty sure Praxis doesn't do BBright. That's where Enduro steps in. Very similar idea/concept.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks MMs. This is very useful information coming from someone who has practical experience with the hardware. I’ve seen a number of complaints about the press fit BB, i.e. noise, needing to use loctite during install, stress on the the frame, etc. The Enduro Torqtite seems to address those issues. It is pricey at around $200, but if it’s a good solution, then I’m willing to spend the extra dollars. The Wheels MFG is comparatively inexpensive at $74, but not sure if it is threaded or press fit. Judging from the photo on their website, I think it is threaded. I’ll confirm to make a better evaluation of this option.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> If it turns out a BB30 bottom bracket conversion is needed, look at Praxis. I have not heard any bad reviews.


Thanks BC, I believe MMs is correct. Per the Praxis website, this option is not compatible with BBright.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

This is the Shimano one being installed for better understanding.

Wheels only has ones for Shimano or SRAM GXP. Enduro is the only option for Rotor/BB30/PF30 cranks.

BBRight? Outboard Angular Contact BB for 24mm (Shimano) Cranks - Black
That's their angular contact for shimano one.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

A fried got a BB right crank [used] by mistake. I can see what it is and length and what it is exactly if you like. PM me I guess and I can txt him. IIRC ir was a 34/50 and decent enough shape. What length did you want, I did not see it in the thread, but I can seem to find my reading glasses...


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks robt57, as MMs mentioned, the crankset is not BBright, it's the frame and bottom bracket. Once I find out a good bottom bracket (for 24mm spindles), it should open my crankset options to any current Shimano road crankset. This way I won't have to worry about future compatibility issues. I'll be looking to install 165mm crank arms (not mentioned in the original post). I wish this length came standard on 51cm bikes instead of 170mm. I understand this is based purely on economics, but I have to swap out cranks any time I buy a new bike. 

Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'll most likely go with a Rotor or Shimano crankset.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

MMsRepBike said:


> This is the Shimano one being installed for better understanding.
> 
> Wheels only has ones for Shimano or SRAM GXP. Enduro is the only option for Rotor/BB30/PF30 cranks.
> 
> ...


Ah, thanks again MMs. I've installed FSA, Shimano and SRAM cranksets without any problems. This looks like it requires a bit more technical knowledge and tools that I don't have. If I go with the Enduro option, I hope my LBS will know how to do the installation given this is a new product offering. I live close to a reputable road bike shop — R&A Cycles in Brooklyn. They don't seem to carry Enduro BBs, but I can check in with them to see if they can do the install. 

Edit: here's the Wheels BB that I found. I'll have to check out the differences since they both say they're compatible with BBright and Shimano 24mm spindles: 

BBRightâ„¢ Outboard ABEC-3 BB for 24mm (Shimano) Cranks - Black


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

jta said:


> Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I'll most likely go with a Rotor or Shimano crankset.


I have too any bikesm if you get my drift. Shimano cranks mostly. Anything more upper end and less than 15 year old is highly ramp-ed/pinned and shifting performance outstanding, well engineered etc. Especially the newer 10+ speed with the asymmetrical chain side plates and pinned/ramped stuff, shifts damn fast and quiet. 

Good luck BTW I am 6'1" and use 170, 165, and 172.5 longest. I can make more power longer and slighter higher RPM overall. I don't know that I can claim that generally for others, but for me... Now when I pop on my old MTN with the 180s it bothers my knees.  [34.25 inseam] Seen the arguments in all directions on it of course.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

If you go the Rotor route, it'll be much easier.

The bottom bracket installs much easier for 30mm cranks, it's a different design. There's no pressing in of the non drive side at all, both sides just freely go in. And the tools are different for it too, it's just two simple wrenches, one for each side. The bottom bracket is pricey at $200 for the Rotor crank and the wrenchs are $30 each, another $60. I think it's worth it personally. I use the Rotor crank and really like it, it's so silky smooth.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

MMsRepBike said:


> If you go the Rotor route, it'll be much easier.
> 
> The bottom bracket installs much easier for 30mm cranks, it's a different design. There's no pressing in of the non drive side at all, both sides just freely go in. And the tools are different for it too, it's just two simple wrenches, one for each side. The bottom bracket is pricey at $200 for the Rotor crank and the wrenchs are $30 each, another $60. I think it's worth it personally. I use the Rotor crank and really like it, it's so silky smooth.


Leaning towards a Rotor with a 30mm spindle as my first choice. Aside from fit issues, I like the stock Rotor 3DF. It is _really_ smooth. The 3D+ would be my only option in this case. The new graphics on the 3D+ look nicer, too — a lot more subtle. 

From a practical standpoint, maybe I can start off by swapping out the crankset, which is the urgent matter, then switch to the Enduro Torqtite or other threaded bottom bracket later on. (either pre-emptively, or when/if the Rotor press fit BB starts giving me problems) 

Thanks again for this advice — it’s really been helpful.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

I'll toss in a thought on wheels mfg. I have their AC bearing on my spesh venge. I blew through three OEM bearings in a bit over a year (new - last for about 8-9 months, 2 sets epoxied in - each only lasted a couple weeks before creaking again). I thought the wheels was worth the $52 gamble (look at amazon) vs $250+ for the enduro. The wheels mfg bb has over 4500 miles on it and does not made a sound. 

I know BBright is not the same as spesh osbb, but I think the 30 mm option is the same PF30 bb. 

As with all PF BBs, YMMV. But, I am rather impressed with the wheels cost and performance - as compared to other choices all at or well over $100.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

I put a Wheels angular contact 30mm ID BB in my Epic MTB. It's been creak free and much smoother than the stock Sram BB. Using AC bearings there makes a lot of sense- there's no worry about putting too much preload on deep groove ball bearings that can not handle it.


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## jta (Jun 27, 2012)

crit_boy said:


> I'll toss in a thought on wheels mfg. I have their AC bearing on my spesh venge. I blew through three OEM bearings in a bit over a year (new - last for about 8-9 months, 2 sets epoxied in - each only lasted a couple weeks before creaking again). I thought the wheels was worth the $52 gamble (look at amazon) vs $250+ for the enduro. The wheels mfg bb has over 4500 miles on it and does not made a sound.
> 
> I know BBright is not the same as spesh osbb, but I think the 30 mm option is the same PF30 bb.
> 
> As with all PF BBs, YMMV. But, I am rather impressed with the wheels cost and performance - as compared to other choices all at or well over $100.



Good to know there are riders that have had good experiences with the Wheels bottom bracket. My take-away so far, if I decide to swap out bottom brackets, is that I should be looking at threaded options with AC bearings, whether I go with a 24 or 30mm spindle crankset. 

The input re: the Wheels bottom bracket is helpful. Thanks to you and Eric. The Enduro BB looks like a good option, but $250 is a chunk of change for a BB. I still need to get a wheelset, too. Converting a set of Boyd Vitesse to 11-speed for the time being. Weird, I thought I posted a reply to Robt57 re: this but it seems to have been lost in the ether.


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## ghettocop (Apr 19, 2014)

Not directly related to OP's question even though the CK PF30 will work on his Cervelo if he wants to stay with 30mm spindle......this is directed to MMS's assertion that all PF bottom brackets are junk. This is incorrect sir. The Chris King PF30 is absolutely, positively, fantastic. Real talk.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

ghettocop said:


> Not directly related to OP's question even though the CK PF30 will work on his Cervelo if he wants to stay with 30mm spindle......this is directed to MMS's assertion that all PF bottom brackets are junk. This is incorrect sir. The Chris King PF30 is absolutely, positively, fantastic. Real talk.


The Rotor PF30 bottom bracket is fantastic too. I'm sure plenty of press-fit adapters and bottom brackets are top notch.

The problem isn't the bottom bracket, it's the design of the whole thing. Pressing in cups to the frame on each side of a carbon frame is inherently a bad idea. Watch the video I posted from Enduro's new lineup and listen to their guy. He's pretty clear in explaining how all press-fit systems are flawed.

These new threaded screw-tight frame clamps are simply a better system. There's zero reliance on proper tolerances or on the cups staying exactly where they're pressed. You can even take a frame that has been ruined from press-fit systems (now tolerances are too large) and salvage it with this system. The cups physically clamp to the outside of the frame, they don't rely on being pressed in there perfectly. The cups thread and lock together perfectly in the same plane. It's just a far superior system, hands down. If it wasn't, Praxis and Enduro and Wheels wouldn't be making tons of cash off of it.


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

jta said:


> Thanks BC, I believe MMs is correct. Per the Praxis website, this option is not compatible with BBright.


Yes, I know Praxis does not make one for BBright. I was going off MMs' statement:


> I can tell you that your crank is *almost certainly not a BBright crank*.
> 
> There was a time when Rotor did make some cranks specifically for Cervelos and BBright but that was years ago.* It's simply their standard crank that can work on a BB30* that uses one less spacer.


Sorry if I misunderstood.


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## ghettocop (Apr 19, 2014)

MMsRepBike said:


> The Rotor PF30 bottom bracket is fantastic too. I'm sure plenty of press-fit adapters and bottom brackets are top notch.
> 
> The problem isn't the bottom bracket, it's the design of the whole thing. Pressing in cups to the frame on each side of a carbon frame is inherently a bad idea. Watch the video I posted from Enduro's new lineup and listen to their guy. He's pretty clear in explaining how all press-fit systems are flawed.
> 
> These new threaded screw-tight frame clamps are simply a better system. There's zero reliance on proper tolerances or on the cups staying exactly where they're pressed. You can even take a frame that has been ruined from press-fit systems (now tolerances are too large) and salvage it with this system. The cups physically clamp to the outside of the frame, they don't rely on being pressed in there perfectly. The cups thread and lock together perfectly in the same plane. It's just a far superior system, hands down. If it wasn't, Praxis and Enduro and Wheels wouldn't be making tons of cash off of it.


Not disputing that the Praxis and WM aren't well thought out designs that perform flawlessly. I have installed about a dozen of them on customers bikes and they are good stuff to be sure. Just asserting that when it comes to PF30 nothing compares to King. The cups are machined and press in like no other. They don't move around over time, they are silent, the bearings are without equal, and with the tool you can keep them freshly greased forever. Not disagreeing at all about those threaded conversion BB's they are great.


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