# Compact crankset vs standard with 12-27



## xjbaylor (Dec 28, 2006)

You need to decide what is more useful to you. Going compact allows you to also use a wide range cassette for a HUGE gear range. On top of that, unless you are racing a 50-12 (or 50-11) ratio will still allow you to bomb down descents (think: tuck and coast.) 
If you decide to stay with the standard crank it isn't much work at all to switch cassettes, and then you have the option of closely spaced gears for flatter rides, and wide range for your normal rides with lots of climbing.
I think the compact is the most effective in this case, but simply adding a new cassette would be cheap, and give you new options.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

a 53/39 12-27 is all you need


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

Not to be rude but this post is absurd. If you had the strength where a standard made sense on 20-30% grades you wouldn't be asking goofballs on the internet about gearning.
I'm pretty sure most pros would use a compact for that type of ride. I know the cat 1 guys I know would.


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

Hughsdad said:


> You're not being rude, but I don't see why the question is absurd. A 39/27 gives me a gear ratio of 1.44. A 34/23 gives a ratio of 1.48, and 34/25 is 1.36. These are not massive differences, are they? It seems the compact only becomes a significant advantage if I go to the 12-27. For one thing, this is becoming a bigger cost issue if I change both the crankset and the cassette. *I'm OK with doing that if the concesus is I have to.* Salsa Lover tells me I don't.
> 
> I'm sure they did. I'm wondering if Google maps is just looking at the highest points of surrounding topography and calculating gradients that way.


No one here has your legs so that might not be a good idea. 

With cost being an issue just go there with your bike as is then once you ride the hills for yourself you'll be able to make a better choice.


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## poff (Jul 21, 2007)

You are going to walk 30% grades anyway. When it is that steep, you cannot just stand up since you would flip backward, you have to lean all the way forward on your bars. And hell yeah, Contador used compact on Zoncolan.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

I know questions about compacts and gearing issues come up all the time, and I'm sorry to rehash the topic, but in my searches I've not found a discussion about this exact question:

For my summer holiday, I will spend about 5 weeks in Guangxi, China. It is a very hilly area - not huge mountains, just a lot of up and down, what looks like a lot of very short, quite steep hills. I mapped one sample 50km ride on ridewithgps.com & it showed 4000m of climbing and 3700m descent. Running the cursor over the elevation profile shows many sections in the 20-30% range. I find it hard to believe that there will be 30% grades on National roads, but I might be wrong. Suffice it to say, there will be some steep bits of climbing. To make it harder, I've not climbed anything larger than an overpass in 4 years (Shanghai is very flat). 

Right now my gearing is a 53-39 and 11-23. I'm thinking to either stick with the standard double and put on a 12-27, or keep the 11-23 and put on a 50-34 compact. Or a third option would be to go with the compact and a 12-25. 

My first inclination was to go for the first option (53-39 and 12-27). It looked like a reasonable combination of using the 39 in my smaller (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sprockets, plus some decent climbing gears, plus being able to get onto the 53 for fast descents. 

My LBS is suggesting a compact. The 34/23 is only a bit larger than 39/27. But when I'm not climbing I know I'll run out of gears at the smaller end of the cassette while on the 34; and on the 50, I'm not sure I like the large ratio differences between the gears on the bigger end of the cassette. 

Or should I really play it safe and get the compact and a 12-25 or even 12-27?

Thanks for any advice. 

Here's where I hope to be riding:


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## andleo (May 30, 2009)

if you are not used to climbing why not play it safe and go with 34-50 with the 27 tooth cassette? 
you could even bring the smaller cassette along with the tool to swap them with you.

The last thing I would want is to go somewhere and not be able to ride due to lack of gearing despite the opinion of the HTFU crowd that will be trolling this thread shortly.


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## bwhite_4 (Aug 29, 2006)

If you are not used to climbing, go with a compact at least.

20% - 30% grades? Did they not know about "switchback technology" when these roads were built?


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## herbn (Aug 22, 2009)

i would use a 12-32 ,10 speed mtb cassette and corrisponding 10 speed shadow r.d. before going compact. I don't believe in a big gap up front,i was tramatized as an adolesent roady when my atala competitzione came with a 36/52 crankset and it never did shift well until i changed the chainrings. I'm sure the new compact stuff is better shifting but wider range cassettes shift so much better, the rear deraileur is a better shifting mechanism to begin with,it shifts on the unloaded side of the chain.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

For years, I've been riding Shimano Dura Ace standard 53/39 rings, sometimes switching to 53/42 for flatter rides. I just added a third bike this spring and decided to do something different. I bought a 2010 Campy Athena group with 50/34 compact rings and a 12/25 cassette. Most of my riding is commuting (kids ...) and the ride home is pretty hilly with a headwind, so I use a 12/27 on the 53/39 bike I commute on. I've been commuting on the new bike with the compact set up as well. Some observations:

1. The gearing on either bike is not that much different. I don't run out of gear on the 50 ring (I worried about this), and the climbing isn't that different either. The 50/34 set up has more gear in the upper range. I rarely go into the 25 tooth cog in the 34/50. I do sometimes use the 27 tooth cog in the 53/39.

2. My 10 year old Dura Ace shifts better than the new Campy Athena, particularily on the front, but then I'm comparing top of the line Shimano to third rung Campy. All in all, the Campy Athena group works well though. I'm still getting used to it. 

3. I kind of like 11 gears the Campy has versus the 9 that my old Shimano has. 

If you can climb steep stuff with 39x27 gearing, then don't change your cranks/rings. At the minimum, I'd get a 12/27 cassette though. The nice thing about the 50/34 is that if you put a 12/27 cassette on it, you'll have incredible gear range. I plan to get a 12/27 cassette for a steep ride that I do in the fall. Hell, Campy even has a 12/29, and with 11 cogs, it wouldn't be too choppy.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

Hank Stamper said:


> Not to be rude but this post is absurd. If you had the strength where a standard made sense on 20-30% grades you wouldn't be asking goofballs on the internet about gearning.
> I'm pretty sure most pros would use a compact for that type of ride. I know the cat 1 guys I know would.


You're not being rude, but I don't see why the question is absurd. A 39/27 gives me a gear ratio of 1.44. A 34/23 gives a ratio of 1.48, and 34/25 is 1.36. These are not massive differences, are they? It seems the compact only becomes a significant advantage if I go to the 12-27. For one thing, this is becoming a bigger cost issue if I change both the crankset and the cassette. I'm OK with doing that if the concesus is I have to. Salsa Lover tells me I don't. 



bwhite_4 said:


> 20% - 30% grades? Did they not know about "switchback technology" when these roads were built?


I'm sure they did. I'm wondering if Google maps is just looking at the highest points of surrounding topography and calculating gradients that way.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Hughsdad said:


> I'm sure they did. I'm wondering if Google maps is just looking at the highest points of surrounding topography and calculating gradients that way.


I must have missed the 20-30% grade in the OP. A 30% grade is ridiculously steep. Most trucks couldn't climb that. If it really is that steep, you're going to need all the help you can get. The steepest I've climbed was a 17% grade in Tuscany to a mountain top hotel where I spent the night. It was damn near vertical. I was afraid to ride down it the next day. Those roads must be switchbacks. Is there anyone you know there that you can call and ask?


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## LC (Jan 28, 2004)

I live in a very hilly area in the NW and run into hills all the time where I can just barely turn over the pedals with 34/50 crankset and 12-27 cassette. There are even some hills/mountains that are just too steep that I have to avoid unless I am on my bike that has even lower gears. 

Look at it this way. You can always shift up and not use the lower gear, but if you run out of steam and there is no lower gear to shift down your SOL. If your from the flat lands and going to bike vacation where there are steep mountains like in China, you certainly should have bailout gears.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*not extreme enough*



Salsa_Lover said:


> a 53/39 12-27 is all you need


That's HTFU-Lite. I say go fixie.


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## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

pmf said:


> I must have missed the 20-30% grade in the OP. A 30% grade is ridiculously steep. Most trucks couldn't climb that. If it really is that steep, you're going to need all the help you can get. The steepest I've climbed was a 17% grade in Tuscany to a mountain top hotel where I spent the night. It was damn near vertical. I was afraid to ride down it the next day. Those roads must be switchbacks. Is there anyone you know there that you can call and ask?


holly crap, a 30% grade for anything longer than 30 meters is tough even with mtb gearing for a normal rider. The pros seem to defy gravity somehow.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

Salsa_Lover said:


> a 53/39 12-27 is all you need


Yep, it's unimaginable that anyone could ever need anything different.

- There are no 4K foot climbs at 10,000 feet.
- There are no 200 mile rides that end with steep climbs.
- There are no riders that are out of shape early in the season.
- There has never been anyone that ever needed a triple.

One size fits all.


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## JoelS (Aug 25, 2008)

First off, ignore Salsa. His opinions are stuck back in the '70's. 

Pro's race on compacts, and choose the best gearing for their riding for the upcoming stage (or race). I see no reason why us mere mortals shouldn't do the same. In the '10 Giro, Vino rode a compact crank with a 32 in pack for going up some of the mountains. And that guy is STRONG.

Climbs as steep as you are describing will be massively painful. Personally, I'd go with a compact and a 27 (or even a 29) in back.


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## aaric (Mar 10, 2011)

Hughsdad said:


> some decent climbing gears, plus being able to get onto the 53 for fast descents.
> 
> My LBS is suggesting a compact. The 34/23 is only a bit larger than 39/27. But when I'm not climbing I know I'll run out of gears at the smaller end of the cassette while on the 34; and on the 50, I'm not sure I like the large ratio differences between the gears on the bigger end of the cassette.



One thing that nobody seems to see about the compact on these threads is that its not all about the lowest gear you can get.

Even if the lowest gear on a climb is comparable between the standard and compact, the compact often will handle climbing better. Why? because the cassette's ratios are closer together. In a 11-28 shimano cassette mated to a 39 tooth standard for instance, you are jumping 4 teeth on the rear cassette between gears (SRAM jumps 3 teeth). The equivalent gearing in the compact 34, you are going to be using an 11-25 or 11-26, which has a 2 or 3 teeth jump, thereby putting your climbing gears closer together, which means you can shift up a heck of a lot easier to your next to lowest gear.

The compact essentially reduces your overlap in front ranges by having a 16 tooth difference on the front rather than 14. So you'll have to shift your front derailleur more often, but actually have more usable ratios. You also can go to a 36/52 chainring setup on compact if you don't want to give up the top end, and still gain a little on the lower end.

A 36/52 front with an 11-26 rear for instance has less overlap in gears than a 39/53 with 11-28, and about the same high and low end, which means you get more closely spaced ratios.


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## sinker (Sep 4, 2009)

tihsepa said:


> My conclusion? Most people are only fast on the internet. Not so much when you get out and actually start clicking off the miles. Get what gearing works for you and tell everyone else to pound sand.


I concur.


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

Salsa_Lover said:


> a 53/39 12-27 is all you need



...until it isn't.
.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks for all the replies. It seems the best bet is to get the compact and maybe a 12-25, 11-26 or 12-27. I suppose the cost will be offset in that I'll always have the compact and extra cassette for future trips like this one. I'd take follow Hank's suggestion to just go with the bike & decide there, but it's in the middle of China, where there are no bike shops carrying this stuff. I could order for delivery, but then loose a week of my riding. 

As I said, I very much doubt the grades are 30%. But even 10% for 500 metres will be pretty steep for me at this point.


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## Len J (Jan 28, 2004)

Have you ever looked at a gear chart?
Have you considered what cadence you like to climb in?

For someone who hasn't climbed much, I would suggest that a compact with a 12-27 will not give you low enough gearing.....especially if you are going to be riding on successive multiple days. Ego means nothing Especially on the 7th steep climb on the 5 TH successive day of hard riding....IMO. 

How much do you want to suffer?

Len


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

SystemShock said:


> ...until it isn't.
> .


No kidding.

whats with these guys and their gearing opinions?

Heck, I ride a 50-34 with a 12-25 and never seem to have a problem. Hell I rode 100 miles Sunday by myself in a heavy cycling area. I am not fast by any means but only got passed by two of the many, many riders I passed. I am not racing, just crusing along at 18-19 MPH by my lonseome.

My conclusion? Most people are only fast on the internet. Not so much when you get out and actually start clicking off the miles. Get what gearing works for you and tell everyone else to pound sand.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

Len J said:


> Have you ever looked at a gear chart?
> Have you considered what cadence you like to climb in?
> Len


I've been looking at gear charts for the past month or so. I have made an excel sheet with *all *the possible combinations on it. 

My difficulty is that I don't know how low I will need to go. I had thought perhaps a low gear with a 1.44 ratio would be low enough, but from people's comments I'm hearing I should be very conservative. So now I'm thinking more along the lines of a 34/27 with a 1.26 ratio, or even a 34/28 with a 1.21 ratio.


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

tihsepa said:


> whats with these guys and their gearing opinions?
> 
> Heck, I ride a 50-34 with a 12-25 and never seem to have a problem. Hell I rode 100 miles Sunday by myself in a heavy cycling area. I am not fast by any means but only got passed by two of the many, many riders I passed. I am not racing, just crusing along at 18-19 MPH by my lonseome.
> 
> My conclusion? Most people are only fast on the internet. Not so much when you get out and actually start clicking off the miles. Get what gearing works for you and tell everyone else to pound sand.


Well said. And one-size-fits-all gearing solutions ("no one ever needs anything less than a 39/27!!") are a joke. 

Differing fitness levels, terrain, and even riding distances (are you hitting that steep hill 18 miles into a ride, or 80? is there one or two long steep climbs on your ride, or several?) underline the obvious: different riders will have widely varying gearing needs. 

If you believe otherwise, ride Florida and the Rockies or Sierras back to back, and get back to us.
.


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## Buzzard (Sep 7, 2004)

MR_GRUMPY said:


> I would advise going with the Compact, and the 12-25.
> 1) A 50X12 will take you up to 35 mph before you will need to coast.
> 2) Not having a 27 will make you look more "manly"


I agree this is the best choice, but I would add a 3rd reason, and maybe the most important to me. And that is, the gaps between gears on the lower end of the 12-27 are just too big in my opinion. I just recently made the switch from 53/39 and 12-27 to 50/34 and 12-25. I love the setup.


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## rfomenko (Feb 15, 2009)

I would go with a triple. If that's not available, then a compact with a largest cassette in the rear available (i.e. 27 or better yet 29).


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

I would advise going with the Compact, and the 12-25. 
1) A 50X12 will take you up to 35 mph before you will need to coast.
2) Not having a 27 will make you look more "manly"


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*performance benefit of the internet*



tihsepa said:


> No kidding.
> 
> whats with these guys and their gearing opinions?
> 
> ...


Everyone know that the internet adds 2-3 mph to your average speed. Even more when you post anonymously


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Salsa_Lover said:


> oh yes, you are all right
> 
> forget about it, you need a MTB triple 44/34/24 with a 11-34 cassette, 700x28c tyres and a brooks saddle. don't forget the 17° flipped up stem.
> 
> ...


If thats what gets them out riding then you sir are correct.

Throw on whatever gear you need and ride.
Why is it always you that mentiones mountain gearing? Hmmmmmmmm?

Or you can get a beer belly and a beard and go for the bent. What ever works for you.


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## Len J (Jan 28, 2004)

Hughsdad said:


> I've been looking at gear charts for the past month or so. I have made an excel sheet with *all *the possible combinations on it.
> 
> My difficulty is that I don't know how low I will need to go. I had thought perhaps a low gear with a 1.44 ratio would be low enough, but from people's comments I'm hearing I should be very conservative. So now I'm thinking more along the lines of a 34/27 with a 1.26 ratio, or even a 34/28 with a 1.21 ratio.


Faced with uncertainty about both the severity of the route and your own climbing capabilities, I'd err by having more options as opposed to less.

If it's me, I'm probably opting for a 50/39/28 triple with a 12-27. That way you have normal gearing (50/39) with the 12/27, but you have a granny if/when you need it. There is very little downside other than someone thinking you are a fred for having a triple.

The purpose is to enjoy the trip..right? It's not to set land speed records or to be able to say you did it the fastest ever, right? If that's the case than gear so you'll enjoy it, not remember it as a pain fest.

IMO...YMMV

Len


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## HillBillies (May 16, 2007)

I am a pretty strong rider (if I do say so myself) and my current ride has a 36/50 compact and an 11-25 cassette. I use it for everything. Crits, road races, mountain gran fondo's, training - everything. I am a compact convert and really don't feel disadvantaged even on flat crits.

For the ride you are talking about 50/34 12-27 (or 29 if you have that option) is the smart choice. When you get back home you can swap the 34 for a 36 if you like for very little cost.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

oh yes, you are all right

forget about it, you need a MTB triple 44/34/24 with a 11-34 cassette, 700x28c tyres and a brooks saddle. don't forget the 17° flipped up stem.

or better yet get a recumbent.

sorry about that.


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## CoastRider_Oz (Jan 26, 2011)

Salsa_Lover said:


> oh yes, you are all right
> 
> forget about it, you need a MTB triple 44/34/24 with a *11-34 cassette*, 700x28c tyres and a brooks saddle. don't forget the 17° flipped up stem.
> 
> ...


Let's not forget the 11-36T cassette from Shimano now Salsa... :wink5:


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

tihsepa said:


> If thats what gets them out riding then you sir are correct.
> 
> Throw on whatever gear you need and ride.
> Why is it always you that mentiones mountain gearing? Hmmmmmmmm?
> ...


sure, we are talking about mountain touring here. so that is about right


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

tihsepa said:


> If thats what gets them out riding then you sir are correct.
> 
> Throw on whatever gear you need and ride.
> Why is it always you that mentiones mountain gearing? Hmmmmmmmm?
> ...



What I want to see is Salsa trying to berate Contador on a Zoncolan training ride. It'd go like this...


Salsa: WTF?! You're a PRO, and you're riding in a 34x32!?! For shame! HTFU!!!!

Contador: *does the pistol hand thingy at Salsa's head, then drops him like a rock with a half-effort... in the 34x32* 

Contador (shouting back from way up the road): El acuerdo es muy bueno, hombre loco! :lol:
.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

Hughsdad said:


> I've been looking at gear charts for the past month or so. I have made an excel sheet with *all *the possible combinations on it.
> 
> My difficulty is that I don't know how low I will need to go. I had thought perhaps a low gear with a 1.44 ratio would be low enough, but from people's comments I'm hearing I should be very conservative. So now I'm thinking more along the lines of a 34/27 with a 1.26 ratio, or even a 34/28 with a 1.21 ratio.


Don't get too worried about the cassette size. Pick one, buy it, and ride. If you find that you need more or less gear swapping a cassette is easy. If you go with a 25T cassette, leave your chain a little long so that you can use a 27 or 28T cassette down the road (without needing a new chain). If you have the opportunity to pick up a slightly used cassette that's a different size from your current one, buy it (swap meets are nice for this sort of thing).

I generally run a 27T cassette, but will run a 25T late in the season when I'm climbing strong. I also do a big ride in July where I install a 32T cassette and a mountain bike derailler. The 32T isn't the best set up for general riding as the gaps between the gears are too big, but on some rides you need the bigger gear more than you need close ratios. It only takes 5 minutes to swap a cassette, so if you own more than one you can easily use the cassette that you need for that particular ride, or more commonly for the condition you happen to be in at the time.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

Len J said:


> If it's me, I'm probably opting for a 50/39/28 triple with a 12-27. That way you have normal gearing (50/39) with the 12/27, but you have a granny if/when you need it. There is very little downside other than someone thinking you are a fred for having a triple.
> 
> The purpose is to enjoy the trip..right? It's not to set land speed records or to be able to say you did it the fastest ever, right? If that's the case than gear so you'll enjoy it, not remember it as a pain fest.
> 
> ...


Good advice, thanks. If I get a triple, don't I need to change the derailleur (Rival)?


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## Len J (Jan 28, 2004)

Hughsdad said:


> Good advice, thanks. If I get a triple, don't I need to change the derailleur (Rival)?


Unfortunately, i don't think SRAM doesn't off er a triple. I think the lowest gears you can get is a compact w an Apex rear der that can handle a 32 largest cog. Lots of big jumps. http://bicycling.com/blogs/thisjustin/2010/02/18/srams-new-road-group-apex/

I use campy and shimano.....no extended experience w SRAM. 

Len


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## andleo (May 30, 2009)

Salsa_Lover said:


> oh yes, you are all right
> 
> forget about it, you need a MTB triple 44/34/24 with a 11-34 cassette, 700x28c tyres and a brooks saddle. don't forget the 17° flipped up stem.
> 
> ...


most mountain tiples are 44/32/22

with work you can get a 20t on a 64 bcd I know because my 29'er has a 20t on an xt crank


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## andleo (May 30, 2009)

Len J said:


> Unfortunately, i don't think SRAM doesn't off er a triple. I think the lowest gears you can get is a compact w an Apex rear der that can handle a 32 largest cog. Lots of big jumps. http://bicycling.com/blogs/thisjustin/2010/02/18/srams-new-road-group-apex/
> 
> I use campy and shimano.....no extended experience w SRAM.
> 
> Len


you can get away with using a 36t cassette if you use a mountain 10 speed derailleur 

its a hack job but for a triple and sram you could use a barcon for just the front derailleur.

is it possible to just rent a bike for the vacation? I have never looked into it, but swapping all these parts would be costly- it may be actually be cheaper to just buy a low end bike with a triple.


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## Hughsdad (Jan 21, 2011)

andleo said:


> is it possible to just rent a bike for the vacation? I have never looked into it, but swapping all these parts would be costly- it may be actually be cheaper to just buy a low end bike with a triple.


I thought about that. Cost is certainly an issue. But I figure if I buy a compact and a cassette it can be a reasonably long-term investment for future trips, which I hope there will be a lot of. 

My LBS has offered a 105 compact crankset + bottom bracket for about $130. Looking at Wiggle, this seems like a reasonable price. I'm not sure if I would be able to rent where I'm going - it's very rural. And if I could, the daily rental for 5 weeks would add up a bit. 

We're taking the train, and I think I can get the boxed bike into the oversized baggage compartment for minimal if any extra cost.


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## Madridmikey (May 5, 2011)

The bike I just bought (FOCUS CAYO 2) has got a 50-34 compact with 11-28 at the back. I'm hoping the combination of 34-28 will get me up the Angliru at some point (parts of it are over 20%). The Angliru is considered the hardest climb in Spain in case some people haven't heard of it, but it never gets to 30%, those Chinese hills are beasts!

What's the main problem with having cogs at the back that have big jumps (my last two are 24 then 28)? Is it that they're not supposed to shift smoothly? Mine seem to shift great, but then I am comparing them to my old bike (ultrega vs sora!).


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

andleo said:


> most mountain tiples are 44/32/22
> 
> with work you can get a 20t on a 64 bcd I know because my 29'er has a 20t on an xt crank


oh no ! a gearing that low could also hurt the rider's self esteem :nono:rrr:


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## Len J (Jan 28, 2004)

Madridmikey said:


> What's the main problem with having cogs at the back that have big jumps (my last two are 24 then 28)? Is it that they're not supposed to shift smoothly? Mine seem to shift great, but then I am comparing them to my old bike (ultrega vs sora!).


It's not a shifting issue it's that the jumps necessitate either a hugh increase in cadence or drop in speed (when shifting to a lower gear) when you shift. It's managable, but it's annoying. The smaller the gaps the smoother the transition in cadence and speed as the road gets steeper.

Len


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## Madridmikey (May 5, 2011)

Ahhhhhh. Thank you!


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## motox155 (Jul 9, 2009)

tihsepa said:


> No kidding.
> 
> whats with these guys and their gearing opinions?
> 
> ...


Perfect. Good answer.


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## maxxevv (Jan 18, 2009)

For minimal cost of upgrading the overall system ? 

Would suggest:

i) going compact 34/50
ii) Swap out the RD to a compatible MTB RD
iii) Get a 11/32 or 11/34 MTB cassette
iv) Swap a longer chain. 

Its still cheaper than swapping for a triple front shifter + FD + crankset.


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## aardvark (Apr 13, 2011)

I recently switched my old setup 52/42 with a 11-21 8 speed cassette to a compact 50/36 with a 12-25 cassette and could not be happier.

I now have usable gears to ride everything from pancake flat to 15% grade that I encounter where I ride. Previously I would have to swap the 42 for a 39 and stand and mash up climbs whereas now I can sit and spin up almost anything.

Compact gearing FTW!


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## WaynefromOrlando (Mar 3, 2010)

I have been riding more hills lately and will be riding in several hilly triathlons over the next few years plus the Assault on Mt. Mitchell next year, so I decided to buy a cassette that would give me a better range than my original 11/23 cassette. I bought an 11/28 cassette (Ultegra) and used in my first hilly triathlon last weekend. I recommend it highly, I was able to stay in the saddle on every hill, was able to shift back into high speed mode faster than many of the other competitors as I was less spent at the crest of the hill.

I just checked the Nashbar site and they have that gearing in both Ultegra 6700 ($67.99) and 105 5700 ($51.99) available today (6-13-2011). I priced my cassette on several web sites and that price is fairly competitive with the others I looked at. 

I have not found the gap between the gears to be a problem and I have not lost any speed whatsoever as the smallest cog is still an 11 tooth cog. If I found that I was spinning out too much while in the 50 up front and the 11 on the cassette, I would move up to a standard. Unfortunately I don't have that problem yet, so I will stay with what I have on the crank for now. Maybe one day I will be able to keep up with the A group pulling at 28 mph, but for now I am a sustained 22 mph guy riding solo (no drafting in triathlons), in my clip on aerobars with more room to grow with my compact 50/34 crank.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

I would do the compact with the 12-27 or 11-28. If you decide that it's too much range, just PM me and I'll buy either the crank or the cassette. It's safe to say you won't want to sell it.

I rode this spring with a guy who has a 53-39 x 12-25 on his bike while I have a 50-34 x 11-28. He (we) never maxed out the high gear much and when we did I was pedaling slightly faster. However when we hit a significant hill I geared down and just steadily pulled away. More importantly, he was roasted and I was only moderated tired from it.

David


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## Wbraun88 (May 11, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> No kidding.
> 
> whats with these guys and their gearing opinions?
> 
> ...


all u need to know really


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## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

I have a compact and a 12-25 cassette and haven't found anything I haven't been able to climb (so far). You could go with a 12-32 (12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,32). 32 as a bail out gear.


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