# Price for pedal removal at a bike shop?



## danny3 (Mar 25, 2013)

I can't get the pedals off of my bike so that I can change them from the clip ins to regular pedals. I bought a pedal wrench but it wont work either. I think the previous owner tightened them way too tight because it wont even budge. 

So my question is, how much should I expect to have to pay for pedal removal at a bike shop?

P.S... I know it's going to vary from shop to shop, but I'm just looking for a ball park range.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

Might be a stupid question but are you turning them the correct way?


----------



## danny3 (Mar 25, 2013)

Yea, I watched videos on YouTube and everything and can't get it to budge at all. I'm no strongman, but I'm also no weakling so I'm guessing that it's been tightened a little too much before.


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

danny3 said:


> Yea, I watched videos on YouTube and everything and can't get it to budge at all. I'm no strongman, but I'm also no weakling so I'm guessing that it's been tightened a little too much before.


Probably no grease on threads when previously installed. Sounds like you need some more leverage. Getting back to your original question, I think most shops wouldn't charge you to break them loose. Maybe a few bucks.


----------



## danny3 (Mar 25, 2013)

Yea, I also used WD-40 on it too and didn't move. 

Great! I can handle putting out a few bucks lol! Thanks for your answer!


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

They can be a son of a b!tch sometimes. Especially without a pedal wrench.


----------



## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Is it an allen wrench system or hex? My Look pedals are allen wrench system on the inside of the crank arms. My Shimano SPDs are hex which requires a pedal wrench. You might want to try using a hair dryer to heat up the threaded area since heat will cause metal to expand. I seen it does on a tv show Wheeler Dealers to loosen stubborn bolts.


----------



## acg (Feb 13, 2011)

I do not think it will cost more than $5.

I took my stubborn pedals and got them removed at the LBS a couple of weeks ago. They did it for free.

The mechanic showed me his trick for stubborn pedals. He stood on the pedal arm with his foot to gain leverage while he used his hand to hold the hex wrench to loosen the pedal shaft bolt.


----------



## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

You can also try to get more leverage with a hammer to the end of the pedal wrench. As redondoaveb said, just make sure you are turning towards the right direction since it is confusing if you flip your bike to work on it.


----------



## danny3 (Mar 25, 2013)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> Is it an allen wrench system or hex? My Look pedals are allen wrench system on the inside of the crank arms. My Shimano SPDs are hex which requires a pedal wrench. You might want to try using a hair dryer to heat up the threaded area since heat will cause metal to expand. I seen it does on a tv show Wheeler Dealers to loosen stubborn bolts.


Honestly, I'm quite the novice and don't know all the specifics but I am pretty sure they are a hex system. They are Shimano PD-R540's. If I had a hair dryer I would try that out! lol.


----------



## danny3 (Mar 25, 2013)

Awesome! I think I'll be taking my bike to the shop tomorrow. There are a few around here and hopefully it won't cost me much!


----------



## AJ88V (Nov 14, 2012)

Why don't you call two or three local shops and ask how much? That would avoid any surprises. Tell them you already have the new pedals if you have them.


----------



## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

I'd think that's something they wouldn't ever charge for. Bike shop mechs are generally very generous with little tasks and like this kind of work, and like to help people. Worth a call, though, some people are sticklers, not because they're greedy, but they're just sticklers.

Even when I didn't tighten the pedals much at installation, at removal they had tightened quite a lot from use, so it might not be the PO's installation that they're difficult, and the fact you're turning against your other arm, without the freewheel to stop them, makes it seem harder. I always remember that the drive (right) side turns the regular way (looking at the pedal), and the other side is the opposite. You can youtube this too.

I've always been able to use a 15mm open-end wrench, but always needed either another wrench linked on, or another foot or foot and a half of pipe, for leverage. You really want to make sure you're turning the right way for this.


----------



## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

While several people have said to make sure you're turning it the right way, no one has specified that the left pedal has left hand threads. The OP may not know that.


----------



## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

The post right above yours specified that, exactly two and a half inches above your comment (I measured it)!


.je said:


> I always remember that the drive (right) side turns the regular way (looking at the pedal), and the other side is the opposite.


If ever you're not sure, you can look up youtube, parktool, or the shimano technical documents.


----------



## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

$0-$5 at my shop, depending upon whether you blame me for it even though you bought your bike elsewhere (seriously...it has happened).

More, of course, if the threads in the crank are messed up.


----------



## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

A huge help is the normally very solid bike stands shops use. Its alot easier to loosen something when you have the bike well positioned and secured. 

Im betting no grease on the threads. Unless its been a huge long time or the pedal axle is stripped from a bad pedal wrench, it will pop right off. 

Good luck and let us know what they find. 

BIll


----------



## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I know you watched the You Tube, but I want to make sure you understand that pedals are reverse threaded, so you have to loosen them going clockwise not counter clockwise.

Assuming you understand that then I would hit both ends of the crank arm, on the front where the pedal nut is tight against the arm and the backside of the arm where the opening is with BB Blaster and let it soak for about 4 hours. Then try again.

The hammer thing does work, but there is a slight chance you could crack the crank arm where the pedals interfaces.

If that fails the cost at an LBS is not going to be that much, maybe $10.


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

froze said:


> I know you watched the You Tube, but I want to make sure you understand that pedals are reverse threaded, so you have to loosen them going clockwise not counter clockwise.
> 
> Assuming you understand that then I would hit both ends of the crank arm, on the front where the pedal nut is tight against the arm and the backside of the arm where the opening is with BB Blaster and let it soak for about 4 hours. Then try again.
> 
> ...


I guess I've always been doing mine wrong. The drive side loosens counterclockwise and the non-drive side loosens clockwise on my bike.


----------



## Carverbiker (Mar 6, 2013)

Just remember the pedals tighten in the direction you pedal. So left side is righty loosey.


----------



## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

The way I remember which way to turn the pedals to remove them is: "BACK OFF!" To loosen the pedals turn them both toward the rear of the bike. This is also a good opportunity for learning. Always put a little film of grease on the pedal axle when reinstalling them. They'll come off ever so much easier.

Someone earlier said use a hammer. Please don't do this. Hammering on the pedals or crank arms will drive the bottom bracket bearings in to the cups producing dents. This is called brinelling. The crank will never turn smoothly after than & the only cure is to get a new bottom bracket.


----------



## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

crossracer said:


> A huge help is the normally very solid bike stands shops use. Its alot easier to loosen something when you have the bike well positioned and secured.
> 
> Im betting no grease on the threads. Unless its been a huge long time or the pedal axle is stripped from a bad pedal wrench, it will pop right off.
> 
> ...


if i have to remove really tight pedals i never put the bike in the stand...much, much easier if the bike is on the ground. 



Mr. Versatile said:


> The way I remember which way to turn the pedals to remove them is: "BACK OFF!" To loosen the pedals turn them both toward the rear of the bike. This is also a good opportunity for learning. Always put a little film of grease on the pedal axle when reinstalling them. They'll come off ever so much easier.
> 
> Someone earlier said use a hammer. Please don't do this. Hammering on the pedals or crank arms will drive the bottom bracket bearings in to the cups producing dents. This is called brinelling. The crank will never turn smoothly after than & the only cure is to get a new bottom bracket.


back off...that's about the easiest way to remember it. good advice! same w/ not hitting it w/ a hammer. that's just asking for problems.


----------



## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

redondoaveb said:


> I guess I've always been doing mine wrong. The drive side loosens counterclockwise and the non-drive side loosens clockwise on my bike.


I think I worded it wrong, yikes, lets try this, you loosen the pedal by turning the wrench toward the rear of the bike no matter which side your on.


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

froze said:


> I think I worded it wrong, yikes, lets try this, you loosen the pedal by turning the wrench toward the rear of the bike no matter which side your on.


I thought you might have had one of those new european cranksets


----------



## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

redondoaveb said:


> I thought you might have had one of those new european cranksets


I was going to say I had a blond moment, but since I haven't lived in California for 10 years, and I'm 60 years old, I'm going to have to say I was having gray moment.


----------



## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

froze said:


> I was going to say I had a blond moment, but since I haven't lived in California for 10 years, and I'm 60 years old, I'm going to have to say I was having gray moment.


Or maybe a brain freeze (or would that be "froze").


----------



## 98koukile (Mar 15, 2013)

Bring a six pack of something with you, even if they would have done it for free. I have never paid full price for anything at my LBS, but they know I only buy things online that I can't get from them or deals I really can't pass up.


----------



## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Mr. Versatile said:


> The way I remember which way to turn the pedals to remove them is: "BACK OFF!" To loosen the pedals turn them both toward the rear of the bike. This is also a good opportunity for learning. Always put a little film of grease on the pedal axle when reinstalling them. They'll come off ever so much easier.
> 
> Someone earlier said use a hammer. Please don't do this. Hammering on the pedals or crank arms will drive the bottom bracket bearings in to the cups producing dents. This is called brinelling. The crank will never turn smoothly after than & the only cure is to get a new bottom bracket.


I did say use a hammer but I didn't say use it directly on the crank arm or pedal. I said use it on the end of the pedal wrench for more leverage if you read it again. I wouldn't suggest using the hammer directly on any bike parts ever.


----------



## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I had to heat mine with a blow dryer the last time I removed them - it was enough to break them loose.


----------



## aengbretson (Sep 17, 2009)

I'll echo a common sentiment - the price could vary depending on the circumstances. Most shops will be happy to pop them off for free (makes you more likely to come back again and pay for something). However, if they don't come off easy you might expect to pay $5-15 depending on how long it takes. If they are really frozen you might run the risk of having the threads in the crank stripped (as they are usually inserts and not as strong as the machined threads of the pedal).


----------



## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

danny3 said:


> Yea, I also used WD-40 on it too and didn't move. ...


Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster both work a little better than WD40, on severely stuck bolts.

Lay bike on side, and form a small "puddle" or "meniscus" of the penetrant on the pedal axle. Might take a few hours to adequately soak in. Then lay bike on its other side & repeat on other pedal.

Depending on the pedal & crank used, there might be small recess on the _backside _of pedal, make it easier to form a puddle of Liq Wrench.

Even if _you _are still not able to remove pedals, the penetrant should help bike shop remove pedals with less risk of damage.

And finally, if pedals were that frozen or stuck, I'd _carefully _run taps thru the crank threads, to get the female threads clean and remove any corrosion. This does take a little extra time & would be reasonable for the shop to charge $10 or so.


----------



## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

redondoaveb said:


> Or maybe a brain freeze (or would that be "froze").


I did have some ice cream so maybe that's it.


----------



## eflayer2 (Feb 15, 2002)

bike shops are notorious for covering their liability by really cranking pedals on tight. i mostly just use a pedal wrench and go just beyond "hand" tight. that way no broken knuckles when trying to get them off again. and yes, off towards back of bike is now in my brain. i use Frogs and they don't have a hex hole on the back. if they had the hex hole, then i'd use that wrench and still go hand tight. that means you can use those same hands to get them off.


----------



## mann2 (Oct 16, 2012)

my LBS would do that for free


----------



## absenteemessiah (Apr 1, 2013)

My old pedals were crazy stuck on the bike, but the LBS pulled them off for free with a tune-up. Otherwise it is $10 and I think that is about standard.


----------

