# TARMAC SL4 how to route internal cables?



## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Picking up my SL4 frame today. Got to thinking....how do you route the internal cables? Is there a guide or something within the frame?


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Rugergundog said:


> Picking up my SL4 frame today. Got to thinking....how do you route the internal cables? Is there a guide or something within the frame?


Great question, I'll be putting my Roubaix SL3 together real soon and wondered the same thing. Hopefully there is a guide path built inside the tube.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Well curiosity is killing me on this. I found some great pics of the frame. It "seems" like there is an exit hole on the bottome near the BB and then the cable will re-enter the chain stay for a short bit prior to exit in the back ...well for the shifters anyhow.


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

Rugergundog said:


> Well curiosity is killing me on this. I found some great pics of the frame. It "seems" like there is an exit hole on the bottome near the BB and then the cable will re-enter the chain stay for a short bit prior to exit in the back ...well for the shifters anyhow.


I saw the same thing on the Roubaix Pro. For now, all that means is that you might have to fish the cable a couple different times. There has to be some sort of rail built within the frame construction to allow the cable to be installed efficiently. Otherwise, I may need a couple of beers the night of assembly. :wink5:


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## joshs (Mar 26, 2009)

The frames come with pre-installed guides form the factory. you will remove them, but make sure to hold on to them, they will be handy when you replace cables.


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

joshs said:


> The frames come with pre-installed guides form the factory. you will remove them, but make sure to hold on to them, they will be handy when you replace cables.


Good to know....thanks.


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## schima (Jan 19, 2011)

a helpful video can be found here: vimeo.com/23917838
i cannot post links....


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## pdainsworth (Jun 6, 2004)

This is one is specifically for the Tarmac and Amira 2012 models. PPay attention to the brake cable in the top tube... if you don't do it right, it rattles like an em-effer.

Tarmac-Amira Internal Cable Routing on Vimeo


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## BikerNutz77 (Sep 10, 2011)

schima said:


> a helpful video can be found here: vimeo.com/23917838
> i cannot post links....


Great vid. Thanks.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Yep came with little tubes installed. I think i already tossed them; though i get the concept and could just use some thin hose from hardware store.

Dealer left the invoice on the box from Specialized. I won't post it but i will say that if anyone intends to buy a frame/fork there is room to wiggle vs what MSRP is on the web page.


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

I am curious if your frame / build came with the "chainstay noodle" for the rear derailleur as pictured at about 20 seconds into the video?

My SL4 frameset did not except for one of the smaller noodles used in the other 3 internal routing locations. looking at the other bikes in the shop that I bought my bike at, neither do those (use the noodle as in the video)...

curious if & why this has been changed?...


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Yes my frame did come with the little thin black plastic "noodle" as you call it within the chain stay as well as all of the other internal routes. Issue i have now is a little buzz from the cables inside the frame.

I intend to pull the cables and dab a little rubber cement in a few spots.

Without the noodles i could have seen this project being a pain in the butt


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

I am actually speaking of a noodle that was much larger than the others for the rear chain stay.

http://service.specialized.com/collateral/Tarmac-Amira-ICR.pdf

The one in Figure 9 labeled as "P." It looks very different than everything else.

Is that what you have?


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Ahh, i see. No my frame did not come with "P", only the metal bushing. Hmm, that part seems like it would be of benefit to keep the cable from cutting into the carbon frame. I may have to inquire about this part. I noticed slowed shiftering from the rear at first; atted a inch to my housing loop and solved it though as the loop was too sharp.


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

I am curious about it. I am going to call Specialized this morning and ask if they know...


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Yea, keep us posted. I have some nice slick teflon cables i plan to put on this weekend, i may hold off.


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

Okay, just talked with a super knowledgeable person at Specialized. He said that the .pdf that I posted actually refers to an issue that happened on the Roubaix, not Tarmac. That piece is actually called the "dropout kevlar" piece. It is not needed for the Tarmac, unless you begin developing issues. If you do, have your LBS contact their "warranty repair" contact to get one.

shew... okay, I can finish putting my bike together.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Good to know its not needed; however the the explained reason is odd.

From the look of the picture it seems that part is to route the cable off the frame inner chainstay as well and prob elliminate some friction.

I guess i don't see how the shape of the chainstay on a roubaix and tarmac are any different......unless the hold on the roubais was significantly higher or something.

........well put that bike together...your gonna love it!


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

the person said there was something specifically different about the way the Roubaix was bonded at that place that made it different. Clearly I don't think it could hurt to have one in there!


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## -dustin (Jan 11, 2009)

It was made to help with Roubaix and Venge issues. Hopefully after a year of **** shifting with those frames + Shimano, the molds used on the Tarmac are different.


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## bernithebiker (Sep 26, 2011)

Here in France, my SL4 did not come with that 'P' sheath part either, and it wasn't mentioned in any instructions I had.

Rear shifting is fine though, but front shifting is quite stiff (I am using new DA 7900).

Has anyone done the brake cable tip? Mine does rattle, but only when I brake so I may do what they say to eliminate this.


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## pdainsworth (Jun 6, 2004)

bernithebiker said:


> Here in France, my SL4 did not come with that 'P' sheath part either, and it wasn't mentioned in any instructions I had.
> 
> Rear shifting is fine though, but front shifting is quite stiff (I am using new DA 7900).
> 
> Has anyone done the brake cable tip? Mine does rattle, but only when I brake so I may do what they say to eliminate this.


My brake cable rattled constantly on chipseal roads. The sheath and donuts took care of it entirely. Well worth doing, IMO.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

My frame came with a gray round rubber bumper, about the size large pencil eraser. Anyone know what this is? Thought it might be for the brake cable rattle.

I put some small sections of rubber on my cable and got rid of the rattle fine.

Fixed the slow rear shifting with a little bit bigger loop out back.


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

Rugergundog said:


> My frame came with a gray round rubber bumper, about the size large pencil eraser. Anyone know what this is? Thought it might be for the brake cable rattle.


It's for the DI2 setup.


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

bernithebiker said:


> Here in France, my SL4 did not come with that 'P' sheath part either, and it wasn't mentioned in any instructions I had. Rear shifting is fine though, but front shifting is quite stiff (I am using new DA 7900). Has anyone done the brake cable tip? Mine does rattle, but only when I brake so I may do what they say to eliminate this.



I did follow the brake cable tip from that video. I used the donuts from my previous tarmac frame and a portion of the cable guide that came with the SL4. Haven't heard the least bit of rattle in 120 miles so far.

I didn't receive any instructions for the cable installation with my frame. I found that PDF online. My frame did come with an instruction manual that ended with various instructions on how to use my "coaster brake." surely a frame of this cost could come with up to date instructions?

Yes, my front shifting is stiff too with 7900 group. I don't know if my cables are rubbing with the "California cross" but I may try taking it out and rethreading.


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## bernithebiker (Sep 26, 2011)

claywalk said:


> I did follow the brake cable tip from that video. I used the donuts from my previous tarmac frame and a portion of the cable guide that came with the SL4. Haven't heard the least bit of rattle in 120 miles so far.
> 
> I didn't receive any instructions for the cable installation with my frame. I found that PDF online. My frame did come with an instruction manual that ended with various instructions on how to use my "coaster brake." surely a frame of this cost could come with up to date instructions?
> 
> Yes, my front shifting is stiff too with 7900 group. I don't know if my cables are rubbing with the "California cross" but I may try taking it out and rethreading.


I'll be doing the brake cable rattle thing tomorrow.

Like you, I had no instructions in the box re. cabling and had to go internet searching. I only found that excellent Vimeo video after I had done it..... Given the importance of doing the cables right, I'm amazed that Spesh don't sort this out.

I don't think it's the cross that's causing the problem. I suspect the under BB guide where the cable seems to be contacting alot of plastic for quite a long distance, (a good 6 or 7cm). They say grease this area with chain oil, (I sprayed it with WD40), but it's still a good bit stiffer to shift up than my old Trek with 7800 shifters. (There the guide is a short piece of polished metal - I have to think that would give less friction).


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## claywalk (May 7, 2011)

bernithebiker said:


> (I sprayed it with WD40)


WD40 is mostly a solvent, I do believe. I think you would have better results with anything else but this. I will definitely put some lube in there. should help. I was thinking the teflon coated cabling might be enough but that is probably going to rub off really quickly at this junction.


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## Rugergundog (Apr 2, 2011)

Yep, try the black coated slick cables guys. That and a small dab of white grease or even wax of any sort and it will slide on that guide on your BB smoothly. I doubt the california cross is causing and friction problems, its only a .5mm spot touching very lightly in there. Its the heavy tension from the front der.

My frame only came with instructions for the headset and seat post. Nothing for cables or BB.


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