# Is $800 CDN good for a 2014 Allez Sport?



## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

I have been looking at buying new but saw this posted on an online classifieds site that is popular in Canada. 

The bike is local so I might go have a look, but I am unsure if this is a good price as I have no idea how much the bike was brand new....

Here is a link to the ad.

Thanks for the help.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Canadian models may differ from US offerings, but that doesn't look like a 2014 US model (and the seller doesn't say in his ad).

That aside, if it is a 2014, Bicycle Blue book lists 'like new' in the low $500 (USD) range. Mint means it could be on the LBS floor. So, like most used bikes, probably overpriced. 

Lastly, no matter what or where you buy, be certain of your sizing requirements.

Here's a link to the 2014 CAN model:
https://specialized.com/ca/en/bike-archive/2014/allez/allez-sport/49774

BBB value:
2014 Specialized Allez Sport - New and Used Bike Value


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

800 is too high, I wonder if he'd take 500.

That bike _might _be a 2014, but it looks 2008 or older, at least from the top tube. At the very least, it looks to have the pointy 4400 Tiagra brifters from somewhere between 2001-2007 or so, maybe the 5500 from 1999-2006

Here's the same bike from a store, on for 600USD, which has the 9-speed 4400, and a different graphic on the toptube, but no year:
56cm SPECIALIZED Allez Sport Aluminum Carbon Road Bike ~5'8"-5'11"


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Thank you for the input guys. 

I might go have a look at it but I think before I would offer any money I would want to have someone check it out for me.

Size-wise I am most likely a 56cm, he said it is a large and I think that's a 56cm in Specialized.

I am new to road cycling so I am wary of spending a lot of money in case I don't justify the cost through usage, but am also a bit nervous about going used since I am not entirely comfortable knowing what to look out for.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> Thank you for the input guys.
> 
> I might go have a look at it but I think before I would offer any money I would want to have someone check it out for me.
> 
> ...


You're wise to be wary of used bikes. Sellers don't always fully disclose and sometimes misspeak without really knowing the facts. 

I think the bike is older than the seller is saying, but if you're interested in it, I suggest checking it out and test riding it. _If it fits_, consider asking the seller to bring it to a LBS of your choice for mechanical as well as fit assessment. They may also narrow the model year and give you a ballpark street price on it.

It may cost a bit for the service, but at least you'll be better prepared to make an educated decision. And if the seller balks at the suggestion, walk.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Looks like a mid-2000's frame to me. Could be a perfectly good bike, maybe it's even had some upgrades, but $800 is really high.

Edit: To be more specific, frame looks mid-2000's, but some of the components, at least the crankset, look like 105 5700-series which was released in like 2010.


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

jetdog9 said:


> Looks like a mid-2000's frame to me. Could be a perfectly good bike, maybe it's even had some upgrades, but $800 is really high.


Yeah, I wouldn't pay more than $450 for it max...


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Roland44 said:


> Yeah, I wouldn't pay more than $450 for it max...



OK - well I was going to say thanks but not thanks to the guy but maybe I will go have a look and take a ride and if I can get a deal then it would be a good first bike.

I'd take it to a local Specialized dealer to get checked out before I offer anything...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> I'd take it to a local Specialized dealer to get checked out before I offer anything...


I was going to say that there's nothing specific about the bike that dictates you have to go to a Specialized dealer, but they'd probably be better able to pin down the model year, so it's a good plan.

It could be because it's a Canadian model, but I can't seem to find any info narrowing the model year. I highly doubt it's a late model. Has me curious...


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Yup - I'll be asking the guy for purchase documents as well...if he is the original buyer. If it's a 2014 I assume he is...

It is odd that he said he _believes_ it is a 2014 model... but I don't think it's stolen because its posted online, he is willing to meet me at his house, and I feel like a thief would be trying harder to come off like they know all the details.

In any event, I'm not going to be offering anything close to $800 no matter the model year. I am not expert enough to feel confident paying a lot for a used bike.


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## .je (Aug 25, 2012)

Poking around Google shows me that the tubes are round and sloping like that from 2001 until 2008, then in 2009 it has the curved flattened top tube. The levers are contemporary with the round sloping tubes, so it's around that old, and 2008 or 2007 seem to have that style of paint and graphics, so I guess it's around that. Only the crankset, perhaps the rear derailleur are newer. 

Could be the seller doesn't know the actual year either, and understands it to be 2 years old. This _could_ happen. I guess it comes down to the condition, of the bike and mechanicals... and surely there's sort of a "floor" to that dollar value? Everyone here is at $400 -$500.... even that's generous...

2007 for reference:









Good luck!


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Thanks - I'm hoping to see it tomorrow. We'll see how it goes...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

.je said:


> Poking around Google shows me that the tubes are round and sloping like that from 2001 until 2008, then in 2009 it has the curved flattened top tube.


Yup, I caught that as well. Later models look more like Tarmacs with the curved, flattened top tube. And the decals are very different. 

OP, I don't think the bike is stolen, but you could check for a serial number (usually the BB shell). It's possible the seller really doesn't know, or he does and knows he'll *maybe* get half what he's asking if someone calls him on it. 

Lots of possibilities when buying used.


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## BCSaltchucker (Jul 20, 2011)

The other guys have the right idea. Might be a great deal for $500 cdn or so. And keep in mind that Allez is NOT carbon frame, only the fork is carbon. the frame is aluminum, but still it is a proven stiff and fast bike.

I recently sold my 2001 aluminum+alu fork Devinci w Tiagra for $500 cdn on brokerage at the dealer. So a much newer with carbon fork and much more up to date really beats my old bike. maybe $600 or so if it is a peach


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## tickyboy (Jan 11, 2015)

I used to have a 2014 Allez. That's a much older model, 100%. I'd guess mid 2000s. You can use specialized's bike archive to nail down the year.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

tickyboy said:


> I used to have a 2014 Allez. That's a much older model, 100%. I'd guess mid 2000s. You can use specialized's bike archive to nail down the year.


I tried that. Trouble, is, Spec stops posting pics after a certain model year, so I came up empty. But yes, there's a consensus building that it's older than a '14 model, which raises a flag to me re: the seller.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

So last night my wife suggests we both buy bikes as anniversary gifts for ourselves so today I decided I'd stop messing around with this specialized and went and got myself a Trek ALR 5. Problem solved.

Now I just need to figure out how to stop the chain from running on the derailleur so much...


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Enjoy your new bike. If the derailleurs are properly adjusted, the rubbing is probably a combination of cross-chaining and not understanding how the trim works for the front shifter.

So even though there are only 2 chainrings, there are 4 positions for the front derailleur. You can Youtube it to see it in action.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

I want to fix it but I don't want to screw anything up....but I am assuming this is a basic adjustment I should deb able to make myself and shouldn't pay a shop to do for me...or is it something I should leave to someone more knowledgable?

Maybe I am naive but I assume that I should be able to get it set so there is no rubbing....


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Did you buy the bike new? If so, bring it back to the LBS, have it adjusted and have them show you how to use the trim function. All that said, you may be cross chaining, which the LBS should explain to you as well.

If you bought the bike used, for this first adjustment, I'd suggest doing the same as above. It just won't be a n/c service. Ask to watch the mechanic as the adjustment is made. Ask questions, and with time you can do these types of adjustments yourself.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

I bought it new but from a shop out of town because the only Trek dealer in town 1. Didn't have it in stock and 2. Is a Trek dealership/store which to me isn't a LBS and I wanted to support a local shop. 

So going back to where I bought it would be an hour of driving but I can probably take it to one of the nearby shops and have them take a look for me.

I do want to learn how to deal with this stuff myself, but I think it's prudent to be shown how the first time.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> ... I can probably take it to one of the nearby shops and have them take a look for me.
> 
> I do want to learn how to deal with this stuff myself, but I think it's prudent to be shown how the first time.


Good plan, IMO. Working on bikes isn't difficult, and this adjustment is pretty basic, but does take a certain level of finesse to dial in.

Wherever you go, ask them to explain the front shifter trim function, and avoid cross chaining - large ring/ large cog, small ring/ small cog.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Ok. I figured that's what cross chaining meant. So realistically (or practically) you don't use ever speed...or at least it's not recommended to....??


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> Ok. I figured that's what cross chaining meant. So realistically (or practically) you don't use ever speed...or at least it's not recommended to....??


I would say anticipate the gear ranges you'll need depending on terrain and fitness. EX: when you're at the base of a climb, you'd shift to the inner ring, giving you a gear range that keeps the chainline straight(er) - put another way, avoid using combos that lead to cross chaining.

A general guide would be to avoid using the two cogs opposite the ring you're in. Smallest two when in the inner ring/ largest two when in the outer. 

But dialing in the FD and learning how to use the trim function will minimize chain rub on the FD.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

Learned a bit about trim today while out with my wife at the local shops as we were picking out a bike for her. I'll try it when we go out for a ride later


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> Learned a bit about trim today while out with my wife at the local shops as we were picking out a bike for her. I'll try it when we go out for a ride later


Might just be a learning curve with no adjustments required. Shops should explain trim along with overall operation of a new bike, but they don't all do so.


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## jtuds (Jun 14, 2016)

We were just out putting around and I got it sorted....still a bit of rubbing in spots but I'll deal with it before I take it in for a first adjustment


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

jtuds said:


> We were just out putting around and I got it sorted....still a bit of rubbing in spots but I'll deal with it before I take it in for a first adjustment


Sounds good. There will be limitations, and there are a variety of factors affecting chain rub, but (as one example) I was able to dial it out in all but the largest cog/ outer ring. 

In the majority of cases, we're still talking cable actuated drivetrains, so... far from high tech.


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## StarTrekBiker (Oct 16, 2013)

jtuds said:


> We were just out putting around and I got it sorted....still a bit of rubbing in spots but I'll deal with it before I take it in for a first adjustment


It's pretty normal for a new bike to need an adjustment after it's maiden voyage as the cables can loosen a bit when they get used (and I mean actually get used while on the road) for the first time.


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