# OLD DRIED UP SEALANT CLEAN UP METHODs TOOLS/SOLVENTS RECOMMENDATIONS



## Bhubb08 (Jul 17, 2008)

Looking for a thread (is there one?) and/or recommendations on the best methods and tools/solvents needed to clean up/remove dried tubeless sealant from the rims and tire/tires. What is the best sealant removal technique?

Thanks in advance....


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Probably everything that works for tubular glue would work. Which means, if you have a real mess, acetone. And me damn careful with it, too; it will quickly remove paint and clear-coats as well.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

Bhubb08 said:


> Looking for a thread (is there one?) and/or recommendations on the best methods and tools/solvents needed to clean up/remove dried tubeless sealant from the rims and tire/tires. What is the best sealant removal technique?


Can't be sure as I have not tried it, but I would first try an aromatic solvent. Xylene is readily available in my local hardware store. Less flammable than acetone and probably less likely to damage paint, decals, etc.


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## ogre (Dec 16, 2005)

I would recommend going over to MTBR.com to ask this question.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Home Depot sells paint and varnish stripper. It's basically xylene.
This stuff will work on most epoxies, so it's a good for tubular glue remover.
Just becareful, it may mess up your frame's paint too!


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

I've just pealed it off with my fingers - tedious but it works. Most of the time I have just worn the tires out and replaced them though and added some sealant periodically between replacements.


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## Finx (Oct 19, 2017)

Sadly, 

There is no easy way to do this other than elbow grease as Srode said.

It's one of the contributing factors to me moving back towards tubes and away from tubeless on my gravel bikes (i've not even considered tubeless on my road bikes).

I have too many wheelsets that I change out depending on the route, weather, etc... that, combined with the fact that I am not riding as much as I used to (due to a rapidly deteriorating knee) and sometimes go a couple of months (in Winter) without riding outside. 

It's frustrating to go grab a set of wheels and find out the sealant is dry, and they have to be cleaned and re-sealed before I can use them. 

I'm fully in the tubed tire and hooked bead wheels camp at this point.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

What sealant are you using? Using orange seal, I've never had it dry up and stick to the rim. Just wipe/wash out the excess and done. 
For tires, I pick off any large bits. Take an old bath towel and rub the tire beads to clean off any bits. Maybe rub down the inside. It's a 5min project. Anything still stuck on the tire stays. It's not hurting anything.



Finx said:


> I have too many wheelsets that I change out depending on the route, weather, etc... that, combined with the fact that I am not riding as much as I used.


Yea, tubeless isn't a great choice for wheels you don't use frequently. I keeps tubes in wheels I don't use often.


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## MDM (Jun 10, 2020)

Once the sealant has dried, there are no safe solvents that can remove it. Peeling or rubbing it off is the only way.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

MDM said:


> Once the sealant has dried, there are no safe solvents that can remove it. Peeling or rubbing it off is the only way.


if the sealant is dried to a crust, then it's hard to remove all of it completely. You will need some solvent to soften up the crust so that you can more easily scrape off the now jello-like sealant.

and leaving the crust layer in the tire sucks as it inhibits fresh sealant from sealing in the event of a puncture


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## Finx (Oct 19, 2017)

aclinjury said:


> if the sealant is dried to a crust, then it's hard to remove all of it completely. You will need some solvent to soften up the crust so that you can more easily scrape off the now jello-like sealant.
> 
> and leaving the crust layer in the tire sucks as it inhibits fresh sealant from sealing in the event of a puncture


The problem is, any 'solvent' that will soften latex (i.e. caulk removers, etc...) would likely also remove any finish, and likely soften the matrix in carbon wheels. I would proceed with extreme caution with this approach.

If you are using the 'rub it off with your fingers' approach, which is what I've done, I use a hair dryer on low heat to warm it up a bit. Softening it with a little heat makes it a little easier to roll it off with your fingers. Just don't go crazy with the heat (for the same reason - don't melt your wheels).


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