# CAAD9 Sizing



## Buzz Roll (Apr 23, 2009)

I'm a long time mountain biker and I just test rode a CAAD9. I haven't ridden a road bike in 20 years or so - I'm 6-1, 34" inseam.

The only size they had available was a 56. I thought a 56 would be way too small, but the bike seems to have a longish top tube, I was really stretching to get my hands on the hoods. Sprinting in the drops felt awkward, balance wise, so I just assumed the bike was too small. They're getting in a 58 this week which I'll try, but I was just wondering if all the CAAD9s (or racing bikes in general), have such a long reach. If the bike was too small, I assumed the handlebars would be really close to my knees. I can't remember how much seat post was showing, but it wasn't unusually high.

Any advice on sizing would be appreciated!


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## Sirveyir (Apr 5, 2008)

I have ridden Cannondale for 24 years. I am 6'-2" with a 34" inseam and 36" sleeve. I have found that my 58cm CAAD7 frame with the stock setup 110mmstem and 175mm cranks is the best fit for me. Cannondale measures their frames from the center of the BB to the top of the top tube rather than the center. I also have ridden my wife's 56cm CAAD4 frame with a 110mm stem and 175mm cranks. It worked fine but could have used another 10mm on the stem extension. I have also ridden my 6'-4" friend's 60cm CAAD4 with the stock setup, which I think was a 120mm stem and 175mm cranks. I felt a little too stretched out on the 60cm frame but could have made it work with shorter stem. Clearance on the boys was a little tight. I think the 58cmor 56cm setup should work for you but you might need to shorten up the stem, particularly on the 58cm.


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## CAAD9R5 (Aug 16, 2008)

I'm 6'1" 34" inseam and ride a 58 CAAD9 with 100mm Stem and a zero setback seatpost. 69.5cm overall reach.


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## Sirveyir (Apr 5, 2008)

The "old school" way to set up someone on a bike was to size the frame (Conventional diamond frame w/ horizontal top tube) so they could get about 3" of clearance for the front wheel when lifting the wheel off the floor while standing over the top tube, feet flat on floor. Then adjust the seat height so the knee was just just shy of locked at full extension with the pedal bottomed out in line with the seat tube and the heel of the foot on the pedal. Saddle setback was adjusted so a plumb line from the front of the patella on the forward knee was at or slightly in front of the pedal spindle with the cranks horizontal and ball of the foot over the spindle. Correct stem extension was the extended finger tips brushing the rear of the handle bar at the stem with the elbow butted up to the nose of the saddle. HB height is a matter of preference and how flexible the old back is. The stem can be flipped to provide some adjustment. This should get you real close. 

Bike fit and setup is important for prevention of injury in older riders. Make sure you deal with an experienced sales person and insist they take the time to get you set up and comfortable on your new ride. By the time you make your purchase and get all of your accessories, you are going to be making a serious investment in their profit margin as you maintain and upgrade your road bike. 

Your LBS should be able to advise you on fit and adjustment of the two frame sizes they are going to try you on. They should swap out or give you credit towards upgrades on stems or saddles to get you set up comfortably on the bike. Some shops that have fancy-shmancy bike fitting services will give you a big discount, or better, provide a free fitting when you purchase from them.


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## learlove (Jan 18, 2009)

Sirveyir said:


> The "old school" way to set up someone on a bike was to size the frame (Conventional diamond frame w/ horizontal top tube) so they could get about 3" of clearance for the front wheel when lifting the wheel off the floor while standing over the top tube, feet flat on floor. Then adjust the seat height so the knee was just just shy of locked at full extension with the pedal bottomed out in line with the seat tube and the heel of the foot on the pedal. Saddle setback was adjusted so a plumb line from the front of the patella on the forward knee was at or slightly in front of the pedal spindle with the cranks horizontal and ball of the foot over the spindle. Correct stem extension was the extended finger tips brushing the rear of the handle bar at the stem with the elbow butted up to the nose of the saddle. HB height is a matter of preference and how flexible the old back is. The stem can be flipped to provide some adjustment. This should get you real close.



ha ha brings back the days. several years ago I picked up a viner i had a local PA shop build up for me. I did the same thing in ref to stem length (elbow against seat tip) and the shop guy laughed calling me "old school". but hey that is how the guys who taught me how to race did it so why not.

this is how we did it (when I raced: late 80's early 90's) 

1. frame size - seat tube c-t-c that allow 1 inch of vertical clearance

2. seat height - put on pedals and shoes and slight to 6 deg bend at bottom dead center. then adjust one or 2 mm either direction to your riding pref. Most spinners (high cadence) guys kept it on the high side while pushers/gear smashers kept on the low side.

3. seat for/aft - plum line from font of knee cap or side of knee (soft spot) thru pedal axle. again crit or high rev guys used slightly fwd of this rule while gear smashers went slightly aft.

4. stem length - elbow to seat nose fingers extended should slightly brush bars. although no self respecting racer would be seen with and stem less than 125mm. 130 or greater being so euro pro cool. mmmm cinelli x/a in a 130mm with crit or giro bars - the cats meow.

5. stem height - as rider pref.

anyone remember lemond's formula in his book for seat height. something like 0.689 of your inseam?

if you really wanted to be euro pro cool you set your bike up as above but then took your seat and slammed it back as far as it would go on the rails and bought a 130mm or bigger stem and slammed it down as far as it would go. then get a set of tubulars and roll the spare under the seat strapped with an old toe clip strap. garnish with a well beaten up and scratched silca frame pump. o and no computer bigger than an advocet 30.


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## Buzz Roll (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks for all of the info guys! I'm going to try out a 58 this week, and I'll make a decision. I think some of the questions come from the bike's more aggressive geometry. My old Peugot was probably more of a sport/racer way back in the day, so maybe I'm not used to being so low in the drops...

Off topic, I finally tried putting my F29 on my rollers last night, wheel base was way too long! Oh well, another reason to get a road bike!


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## BikeFixer (May 19, 2009)

learlove said:


> if you really wanted to be euro pro cool you set your bike up as above but then took your seat and slammed it back as far as it would go on the rails and bought a 130mm or bigger stem and slammed it down as far as it would go. then get a set of tubulars and roll the spare under the seat strapped with an old toe clip strap. garnish with a well beaten up and scratched silca frame pump. o and no computer bigger than an advocet 30.



You mean that's not the way to do it anymore ??!?!?!  

Lmao


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## learlove (Jan 18, 2009)

BikeFixer said:


> You mean that's not the way to do it anymore ??!?!?!
> 
> Lmao


if were writing the book that is the way I'd do it. plus everyone would be on lugged steel slx or mx leaders. no sloping tt crap either.


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## Sirveyir (Apr 5, 2008)

So, what is the word Buzz Roll? Were you able to get fitted? You have got to go "Handmade in the USA"!


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## Buzz Roll (Apr 23, 2009)

Well I was waiting to make sure that I was booking some work this summer, so I have the extra cash... Looking good so far, but now it's been raining for the past couple of weeks so I haven't had a chance to try a 58. The LBS has one, but not built up, the more I talk to people, the more I hear that a 56 is my size, but I have to try them out... Time is ticking so I want to get in there next week sometime...


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## EDUC8-or (Jan 2, 2009)

I think you could get away with a 56 or 58, I'm 6'2" and have a 58cm Caad9 but tried out a 56cm Super Six and it actually fit quite well.


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## nachtjager (May 7, 2008)

im 6'4" and ride a 63cm six13. with a 120mm stem. fits just right. but that old method of reach doesnt work for me, my fingertips barely brush the top cap of my headset. Guess im just "euro pro"


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