# First road bike / budget for extra's / tools etc



## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Hi all newbie here looking to buy my first road bike. 

I am 39yrs of age and fairly fit and have been riding a HD virtual bike in my gym for some time now and also doing a bit on an old mountain bike that is both heavy and slow however fun on trails just no good on the road or paved areas...</SPAN></SPAN>

I am looking to use the bike for fitness and also I would like to do a triathlon in about 12-18mths time and maybe join the local cycling club to consider if I wanted to have a go at competition probably in about 12mths after I have had time to get some time in the saddle.</SPAN></SPAN>

I was at first looking at the 2014 Cannondale Synapse Disc 105 for about $1,600 however since then I have also been shown a 2014 CAAD8 105 and 2014 CAAD10 105 for about $2,100</SPAN></SPAN>
I have yet to test ride these I am just getting the funds together also have budgeted about $400 for pedals, shoes, shorts, tools etc is this a reasonable budget to start?</SPAN></SPAN>

Do you think the extra $500for the CAAD10 is worth the extra $, it does look impressive!</SPAN></SPAN>

What alternatives would any one suggest at this level / budget...?

Thanks in advance </SPAN></SPAN>


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## Nubster (Jul 8, 2009)

Extra for the CAAD10...yes. 

$400 for the extras...with some careful shopping I think so. Shoes on sale or ebay, cheaper pedals like 105's, tools aren't that much, couple tubes, inflation system...ect.


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## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

You can easily drop four bills on clothing alone. Riding every other day and twice on weekends translates into two or three kits, since I believe it best to air dry after washing. I personally own seven kits, so I can wash four or five in a gentle cycle load (rather than hand washing each set after every ride).

Not a bad idea to keep a couple backup items in your parts bin, like an extra tire or another tube. Blowouts are not unheard of. A chain, some gear cables, and a spare set of cleats - stuff you'll eventually use, anyhow. Get an expensive rear blinky light to use in all conditions. Added peace of mind.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Ok so the CAAD 10 sounds like the go however maybe I need to have more $ for extra's / gear...

This is the CAAD 10 I am looking at -

Bicycle Superstore: CAAD10 5 105


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Also I was reading and I believe that this frame can be upgraded to Di2 although I am not entirely sure if this is really going to add much to a rider withy limited experience...


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

Congrats on your decision to buy a road bike!!!

Before you make a decision on one particular brand or model, I'd look at your local bike shops for other brands. Go out and test ride a few and see which one you like the best. For savings, you could ask them if they can get you a 2012 or 2013 model. That will save you money and get you the most bang for your buck. I'd say, if you were an experienced rider, and knew exactly what geometry and frame size you need, there are a ton of bikes on the internet you could get at a very good price. However, the drawback is, you will not have the support and warranty a local bike shop gives you.

I wouldn't buy a bike with anything less than 105. Ultegra would be even better. I've never owned a bike with Di2, nor do I want one with it. I like the manual, integrated shifters the way they are.

With that said, whatever bike you buy, it will probably come with stock tires, which are probably just basic tires without any flat protection. The first thing I'd buy would be Conti GatorSkins or Conti Four Season tires. They have built in flat protection. They are about $40-$50 each, depending on where you buy them.

Shoes, well, if you know your exact size and width, there are a ton of places you can buy them online. However, I will tell you, the width and toe box will vary by manufacturer. I can't wear anything but Sidi shoes because I have a 4E width. The shoes I wear cost over $200 on sale.

And before you get to shoes and pedals, you need to decide what kind of shoes and pedals you want. I ride a Lynskey R255 titanium road bike. I prefer using MTB shoes and MTB pedals on my road bike. I've had road bike shoes and road bike pedals in the past, and I don't like the way the cleats and heals of the shoes have very slippery contact points when you need to get off the bike and walk. With MTB shoes, there's a platform that raises the shoe off the ground enough where the cleat makes minimal contact with the ground. MTB shoes are much easier to walk in, if you need to. I know a lot of road cyclists who use MTB shoes and pedals on their bikes.

You'll need a rear saddle bag, a few extra inner tubes, a repair kit, a CO2 pump and a few extra cartridges to inflate your tubes, a multi-tool, and tire levers to remove the tires in case of a flat.

You'll also need a rear blinker. I use a Planet Bike blinker. It's very bright!!

For clothing, there's a ton to choose from. You'll find, as with anything else, "you'll get what you pay for". I started out with a cheap pair of Canari shorts with a chamois pad back in the day. It helped, but my butt would be sore. Through the years, I've changed to wearing bibshorts instead of shorts, and I usually buy Pearl Izumi In R Cool, or Castelli. I just dropped $150 on a pair of Castelli bibshorts with the new Progretto pad. I can tell you from experience, you'll need to order a size or two up from your normal size. Most manufacturers run small, as they are made for the "European Male", not the "American Male", who is usually taller and rounder around the waist.

For jerseys, you'll need something with the three pockets in the back. Make sure they are made with the wicking material. 

As far as what someone mentioned about having more than a few sets, well, that's personal preference. For me, I wash my garments immediately after a ride on delicate cycle with Tide and no fabric softener, and let them air dry. I don't like to let my garments sit there in the dirty clothes and fester bacteria. It's best to wash your garments right away.

You're going to need chamois cream too. There's a bunch of it out there, and it will run you between $15-$25 a pop. 

Let's talk saddles. Your butt may not like the stock saddle that comes with the bike. You need to give it a few weeks, but if your butt is still screaming bloody murder, you may need to invest in a different one. They have a "sit test", where you can sit on memory foam and measure your sit bones. That will determine what width saddle you need. There are many types of saddles out there. You may need to do some experimenting. Usually, a local bike shop will have an exchange period until you find one your butt likes. 

That should get you started in the right direction. 

Enjoy the ride, whichever one you get!! Keep us informed.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

You are on the right path my man. The Synapse and Caad10 are very different bikes though. Both are very good, but they have different geometries and that translates into a a difference in ride quality/style. So, make sure you ride both before you buy. Congrats and I wish you the best.


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## Nubster (Jul 8, 2009)

On clothing...good suggestions but to get on the bike and get started...you don't need to drop a load of cash. Buy a decent pair of shorts. That's all you need. $50 will get those for you. You don't need shoes right off the bat though I'd recommend them. There's lots of decent shoes that can be found on sale and closeout or even used for $100 or less....definitely $150 or less. Add in another $100 for pedals for something like a Shimano 105 or whatever style you go with. I too started with a mountain bike pedal/shoe but moved on to a road setup and like it quite a bit more for riding on the road. You can wear just a regular shirt or one of those sweat absorbing shirts at first. A jersey with pockets would be nice but you don't need it to start. You can add things as you go along. 

IMO, you need the following to get started:

-Shorts with a quality chamois. $35-$50 a pair. You can spend a lot more but not needed, not at first at least.
-Tubes x2
-Patch kit
-CO2 kit with spare CO2
-Levers
-I like a pump as well incase something happens to the CO2. At least you can get home off a pump
-Helmet of course
-Multi-tool
-Saddle bag to carry your flat kit, tool, levers, couple gels, $20 bill.
-Tyvek squares in case you get a large hole in the tire. Free if you go to the post office and grab a free priority mail envelope.

That's it. That's all you _need_ IMO to start. Add things as you can.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

Consider bibs... I know, as a newcomer you're probably looking at those things thinking to yourself WTF? If you're buying at a LBS (local bike shop) try on a pair of shorts, and then try on a pair of bibs... note the lack of that waist band biting you, and note how the bibs stay in place after a few squats in the fitting room. 

If you're giving the LBS bike business but don't have an unlimited wallet and want to get set up - with respect to things such as bibs, jersies - consider a site like backcountry.com (or even backcountry.com outlet) where you can load up on bibs/jersies, have them shipped to your home for free, try on a bunch, keep what you want and send the rest back. If you go that route Pearl Izumi Elite, Sugoi, Hincapie, Gore, Castelli, Craft are well known brands. There's a big difference between a good pair of bibs and the lowest priced pair of bibs on the shelf. Keep in mind cycle clothing sizes are all over the map. Size up, size down, size two over, it's trial and error. 

I do buy all the other things like bikes, lights, pumps, service, blinkers at the LBS, but when it comes to clothing I like to be able to try something on in multiple sizes and models and keep what fits.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

WITHND said:


> Also I was reading and I believe that this frame can be upgraded to Di2 although I am not entirely sure if this is really going to add much to a rider withy limited experience...


This probably sounds crazy - but speaking from experience - you may not know what bike you want... until you buy your first, ride it and then realize what you like and don't like about it 2K miles down the road. I wouldn't worry about upgrade-ability... bike tech will get better and you wont want to put on Di2 or Di4 or Di5 on an old frame.

CAAD10 and synapse - as someone said - have very different riding characteristics. So make sure you know what to look for on your test ride. Also, make sure your tires are pumped to the proper pressure to your weight and not just both pumped to max... this will make a huge difference in ride quality and your perception of how the bike performs...


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Yeow. Don't put road cycling on a pedestal. Or triathlons, for that matter. Plan to join a cycling club as soon as you get your bike - they have rides at all paces - and why not do a triathlon this summer? Your first one is just to finish regardless. Road racing is a bit of a different ballgame, so you're probably right to wait until next season to try that, if you're still interested.

Necessary gear is tricky and you can scale it to your ride length and budget. Do you already have a flat kit for your mountain bike? You really just need to add some skinny 700C tubes for the road bike. Whatever you wear on the mountain bike will work on the road too, at least to begin with. I pretty much only wear road kit whether I'm on- or off-road at this point.

What shoes and pedals do you use on the mountain bike?

I find it convenient to own a couple pairs of shorts and jerseys, and use different pedal systems on- and off-road. I take the same multitool and pump for both kinds of riding and each of my bike has a seat wedge with the appropriate tubes and sometimes something else appropriate to the bike, like a spare link or better tire levers. I don't believe in stuffing a lot of crap in my seat wedge. They can end up kind of like the trunk of a sedan - full of stuff one doesn't need.

A floor pump is nice. I think I have the second cheapest.

What else? 105 is definitely not the lowest good group. Tiagra is very reliable. I haven't owned a Sora bike but it seems to work. 2300 (now Claris) tunes at least well enough to work on a test ride. Get the bike you enjoy and that excites you, but if you feel uncomfortable with the price, don't feel you actually need to spend that. Disc brakes are nice if you ride wet roads. Ride all the bikes - the Synapse and CAAD shouldn't feel the same. I'm a sucker for fancy tires, but you don't really need to replace the stock tires on most bikes in this price range.

Visit the other shops in your area and see what they've got for your number as well. The brands are all staring down the gunsights at each other, so they'll be pretty competitive.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

I'm a little confused. C-dale's site has an MSRP of $1700 for the CAAD 10-105. What upgrades are on the one you were quoted $2100 for? I was thinking that for $2100 you could probably get the carbon Synapse-105.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Wow so much great advice thank you all who have replied I am going to use a lot of this in planning / when I visit my lbs. 
I agree I am torn between the idea of a more comfortable ride / synapse and the CAAD's however I guess I'll know after having a ride.

In answer to a question about my current riding on the mountain bike I just wear some cheap bike shorts with regular shorts over the top and a lightweight gym style quick dry shirt. I just use runners and they are stock pedals not clip ins however at my gym using the HD bike trainer even with the shoes strapped into it I can feel how much more performance and power / efficiency you get compared to the more mashing with the basic mtb pedals and thus will def get clip in pedals with this purchse.

Also re the Di2 comment I am sure the 105 will be more than fine I was just interested that it mentioned on the CAAD10 that it is compatibale with this, I imagine all frames will be in a few years and maybe it is just certain frames that have this feature now...

I don't like the idea of the stock tires so maybe when I do purchase I will ask for the lbs to fit the Conti GatorSkins or Conti Four Season tiresn as was mentioned above.

I will update this once I get further down the path of purchase and the minister of finance (my better 1/2) approves the budget 

Thanks all for the help and value you all add to newbies like.

May the wind always be at your back >>>>


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

mpre53 said:


> I'm a little confused. C-dale's site has an MSRP of $1700 for the CAAD 10-105. What upgrades are on the one you were quoted $2100 for? I was thinking that for $2100 you could probably get the carbon Synapse-105.


This is the link for the CAAD10 and I am in Melbourne Australia so in AUD so probably about $1,890 ish USD. Australia is a very expensive place to purchase however we do have high wages that partiall offsets some of these costs. As a purchase of this nature and my limited exp I am inlcined to buy from lbs than online as I need to test ride and also get at least a shop fit and the follow up maint to start with.

See link to the CAAD 10 at my lbs - 

Bicycle Superstore: CAAD10 5 105

Does this make more sense now...?


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## Nubster (Jul 8, 2009)

Clipless shoes/pedal will make a huge difference. While not necessary I'd highly recommend them. If you get new tires...definitely get 25mm. Makes a pretty big difference. I was really surprised when I made the upgrade last year.

Your clothes will be fine to start if you want to save the cash. I road like that...still do in fact sometimes, in the same stuff. Bike shorts with gym shorts over top and a wicking shirt. A jersey is nice to have though...even just one for longer rides.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

mpre53 said:


> I'm a little confused. C-dale's site has an MSRP of $1700 for the CAAD 10-105. What upgrades are on the one you were quoted $2100 for? I was thinking that for $2100 you could probably get the carbon Synapse-105.


The Cannondale site always lists things $200 or so higher than what shops will sell them for as well.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

If you want to spread it over another paycheck, you can just ride in running shoes and toe clips for a while. In real life, the improvements in power and efficiency aren't terribly significant or important, but proper cycling shoes are more comfortable and can be ergonomically better on longer rides.

Sounds like you've got clothes good enough, at least. I like three-pocket jerseys for cycling. I get back the pockets I lose not wearing pants.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

WITHND said:


> This is the link for the CAAD10 and I am in Melbourne Australia so in AUD so probably about $1,890 ish USD. Australia is a very expensive place to purchase however we do have high wages that partiall offsets some of these costs. As a purchase of this nature and my limited exp I am inlcined to buy from lbs than online as I need to test ride and also get at least a shop fit and the follow up maint to start with.
> 
> See link to the CAAD 10 at my lbs -
> 
> ...


Now it does. I wasn't aware that you're Down Under. I used to buy fishing tackle from Aussie web sites, and back then it was almost an equal exchange rate.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Sorry to throw another curve ball, I have a contact that is involved in the JAMIS brand and may be able to get me a very very very good deal on a JAMIS bike that would suit me that would compare to the 2014 CAAD10 or the 2014 Synapse.

Does the JAMIS brand ring any alarm bells re frames or otherwise?

I think he will do me a very good deal eg I would probaly end up with an equivalent CAAD10 frame (I know it will be carbon but ignore that for now) for anywhere up to $1,000 or more less, this will give me more budget for possibly upgrading to Ultegra from 105 or using 105 and have $ to upgrade the wheels... 

Anyways he is in China till mid next month then I will see what he can do for me and more importantly have a ride of whatever it is he is thinking...

Thanks in advance


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

I've never heard anything bad about Jamis frames. Keep in mind, there are only about, give or take a few, carbon frame manufacturers in Asia. Chances are very good that the Jamis carbon frame is being made at one of these factories, just like the rest, and even generic knock offs too. I've personally given up riding a CF bike, but the majority here ride them and swear by them. As you well know, an aluminum bike is going to be heavier than CF and you'll feel the bumps of the road more with aluminum than CF. Also keep this in mind. There are various grades of CF. Some of the lower end CF will be heavier than the top tier CF material. 

I'd still keep looking and wouldn't put all your eggs in the same basket wishing and hoping your friend with the Jamis connection will actually come through for you.


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## adjtogo (Nov 18, 2006)

I'm not a huge fan of buying a bike online, but some do. Bikes, Cycling Clothing, Bike Parts & Cycling Gear: Bike Discounts & Deals from Nashbar has some of their bikes on sale up to 68% off right now. They've been sending me emails with bikes with Ultegra for around $1099, and with 105 for around $69. They are aluminum framed bikes at this price, but they also have CF ones too. Like I said above, there are only 4 or 5 CF bike factories in Asia, and Nashbar has their line produced there just like everyone else.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Last time I bought a bike, I only looked within brand for the brand I have a hookup on.

Actually not a bad way to go. The brands are all staring down a gunsight at each other, so if you're looking at a bike in one of the more common classes, they're all pretty comparable.

I don't know (or even really care) what subcategory the CAAD10 falls into within race/rec/fitness road bikes, but that's a category Jamis addresses too. So you should be fine with them, and using your hookup.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Hi all

I pulled the trigger on a 2014 Jamis Race bike that I got a great deal on from a friend of a friend and have paired this with Shimano SPD Pedals and Mavic shoes

JAMIS BICYCLES

Only had time for a short ride of 10km so far however and found it to be very comfortable and responsive not to mention smooth and felt fast (well for me) I am looking forward to going for a good long ride asap.

Also scored a Jamis kit with it so at least look the part


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## fishboy316 (Feb 10, 2014)

Congrats! Hope you enjoy the ride! I was looking into a 2012 xenith race but the dealer would not bring it in unless I bought it. So let us know how it does!
Bill


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

WITHND said:


> Also scored a Jamis kit with it so at least look the part


Congratulations on the new bike.

Watch out for guys in kits with a lot of local businesses printed on them.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Bill it goes super smooth and fast 

Here is a pic from my i-phone so excuse the poor quality...

Also got a Garmin 500 bundle with HR, Speed and Cadence monitors/sensors


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

WITHND said:


> Bill it goes super smooth and fast
> 
> Here is a pic from my i-phone so excuse the poor quality...
> 
> ...


Nice bike, but doesn't that seat make you uncomfortable? Saddles/seats are usually set up to be level. Your looks like it's tilted way forward shifting all your weight onto your hands.
A lot of people will set up their seats with the rails - and not the seating surface - parallel with the ground.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Thanks 9W9W I am new to road biking and was going to ride for a few weeks then take to LBS for a "fit" after making my own adjustments as I go, tonight I will play with the seat, it has not caused my any pain as yet however now you mention it it does look a little odd :/


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

WITHND said:


> Thanks 9W9W I am new to road biking and was going to ride for a few weeks then take to LBS for a "fit" after making my own adjustments as I go, tonight I will play with the seat, it has not caused my any pain as yet however now you mention it it does look a little odd :/


No worries. I rode for a whole season before I did a basic fit. Seats are usually dead level, with the back of the seat kicking up a bit to provide leverage when climbing sitting. If it's too level, your butt will tend to want to slide off the rear of the seat and your lower back muscles may complain having to keep it from sliding off. Tilted too forward? You'll notice like you're sliding off of it unless your hands are on the bar. 


I would tilt it a bit more level. I'd also measure your cycling inseam (feet on floor, 8" apart, book jammed up your crotch hard) and set your seat at .883 of your measured inseam. Good places to start, but if you got it from an LBS you can just head there.


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## WITHND (Feb 11, 2014)

Thanks again 9W9W very much appreciated I will also try the measurement you have listed as well as did not get the bike via LBS just got the pedals / shoes and then the Garmin from them and will be using them for a fit / services in the future...


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