# Installing new handlebars



## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

I'd like to try a different set of handlebars than those that came with my bike. I'm wondering is this is a DIY project for a novice. I generally consider myself pretty handy, but have no experience working on bikes. They are Campagnolo levers. It seems like it shouldn't be to difficult?

1. unwrap current bars, loosen brake levers bolt and remove from handlebar

2. remove old bars from stem

3. secure new bars on stem

4. Place brake levers on new bars & tighten

5. wrap handlebars

Am I missing something here? Will I have to mess with tightening/loosening the brake & shifting cables? Any other tips or advice appreciated.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

You pretty much have the just of it. Other than making sure its the same clamp diameter and width? 
The only other issue that might exist if the cables are routed in the bars through "channels" within the bar. Then you will have to undo the cable at the brakes and derallieurs to threat back through the bar.


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## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

bikerjohn64 said:


> You pretty much have the just of it. Other than making sure its the same clamp diameter and width?
> The only other issue that might exist if the cables are routed in the bars through "channels" within the bar. Then you will have to undo the cable at the brakes and derallieurs to threat back through the bar.


Bars are 31.8 and I think the cables run in an external groove along the bars and not actually "in" the bars.


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## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

Golfguy said:


> The bolt head for current levers requires a Torx driver. Don't try a hex wrench or you'll mess up the bolt. Older levers use the regular hex head.


How current? I have 2010 Veloce.


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## Golfguy (Nov 20, 2010)

Yeah, you got it. The bolt head for current levers requires a Torx driver. Don't try a hex wrench or you'll mess up the bolt. Older levers use the regular hex head. Now that modern stems allow you to take off the handlebars without having to slide them through, it's so much easier than the old quill stems.


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## Golfguy (Nov 20, 2010)

PixelPaul said:


> How current? I have 2010 Veloce.


Yes, those levers will use the Torx bolt.


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## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

Golfguy said:


> Yes, those levers will use the Torx bolt.


Thanks much.


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## kfurrow (May 1, 2004)

The brake and shifting cables have stoppers on them to prevent them from going through the brifters, so when you try to pull the brifters off the handlebars, the cable is going to come with them.

And the "other" end of the cable (i.e., the end clamped to the brake or derailleur mechanism) usually has an end cap on it, so the cable won't fit through the housing either when you pull on it.

I don't know how you're getting Veloce levers off the bars without at least cutting the inner cable. It's usually recommended that if you replace the inner cable that you replace the outer cable with it as well.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

kfurrow said:


> The brake and shifting cables have stoppers on them to prevent them from going through the brifters, so when you try to pull the brifters off the handlebars, the cable is going to come with them.
> 
> And the "other" end of the cable (i.e., the end clamped to the brake or derailleur mechanism) usually has an end cap on it, so the cable won't fit through the housing either when you pull on it.
> 
> I don't know how you're getting Veloce levers off the bars without at least cutting the inner cable. It's usually recommended that if you replace the inner cable that you replace the outer cable with it as well.


Huh? If the cables dont run through the bars there is no need to disconect either the brake or shift cables.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

tihsepa said:


> Huh? If the cables dont run through the bars there is no need to disconect either the brake or shift cables.


+1^
Yeah; and even if they did the caps are removable anyways. 
There's no need to cut anything.


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## cq20 (Mar 24, 2007)

I've done this quite a few times and I suggest

1. unwrap current bars, loosen brake levers bolt. 

2. remove old bars from stem

2.5 and remove levers from handlebar

and


4. Place brake levers on new bars & tighten

4.1 Ride bike and see if levers feel good 

4.2 Move levers 

4.3 Ride bike and see if levers feel better in new position

Repeat 4.1 to 4.3 until happy  and finally.

5. wrap handlebars

PS I've never had to cut or even unclamp cables when changing handlebars; there is a fair amount of slack created if you remove the bars from the stem after unwraping but before removing the levers.


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## gamara (May 20, 2002)

I've just changed bars & stem on 2 bikes. No need to disconnect the derailleur or brake cables. As other poster mentioned, when you have the shifters on the new bar, try the new position first before you tape anything up. When everything feels good, wrap bars.


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## svard75 (Jun 10, 2011)

I'm going to be doing this myself this weekend. Unfortunately my old bars did not have internal cable routing whereas the new ones do. Anyone have any ideas on how to do it without replacing the cables? I would try to reuse them but I'm afraid it will begin to fray at the ends where they were clamped, especially pushing them through the BB guide and the little hole through the frame to the FD. I guess I don't have to use the internal cable routing on the new ones either but I wanted to do just a half wrap on both sides. It just looks soo much cooler


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Plan on needing new handlebar tape.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

Svard75; 
It might be worth it to replace the cables while you are there depending on how old they are. You can even use the rear derallieur cable cut neatly short to now use on the FD. Same goes for the rear brake cable. 
The cables alone won't cost too much. 
If you're going to do it; do it right and do it once ;-).


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## maximum15 (Feb 6, 2004)

Easy job as others have already described. I do suggest getting a torque wrench for the clamp screws on the stem. If you don't have one and don't want to spend a lot of money, you can pick up one specific for jobs like this with a preset value of 5 Nm, which is likely the recommended torque value to use. Your LBS should have them in stock.


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## drg9 (May 10, 2012)

What typ of torque wrench is recomended for aover all maitinence? I saw one at harbor frieght for $77.99 with a hex set included.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

Any kind is better none. 
Just remember that it is a "gauge" and should be used as such. 
A click-type should always be "zero-ed" before putting it away. 
Also, just be careful when reading it so that you know what the setting reads before using it ;-)


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## maximum15 (Feb 6, 2004)

A torque wrench isn't a harbor freight purchase item, in my opinion. This is one of those items where I tend to spend more. There are such varied torque levels required on a bike, that you really can't buy a one-size-fits-all. Well, you could but I wouldn't recommend it.


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## bikerjohn64 (Feb 9, 2012)

maximum15 said:


> A torque wrench isn't a harbor freight purchase item, in my opinion. This is one of those items where I tend to spend more. There are such varied torque levels required on a bike, that you really can't buy a one-size-fits-all. Well, you could but I wouldn't recommend it.


Very true. The torque settings can range from 5Nm up to 40Nm. Not a job for one tool. 
A 1/4" drive would be perfect for the 4, 5 & 6 mm bolts. While a 3/8" or 1/2" drive for other parts.


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## Iwannapodiumgirl (Jun 26, 2002)

cq20 said:


> I've done this quite a few times and I suggest
> 
> 1. unwrap current bars, loosen brake levers bolt.
> 
> ...


what happened to step 3?


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## cq20 (Mar 24, 2007)

Iwannapodiumgirl said:


> what happened to step 3?


 Yes it was a bit remiss but I thought it was sort of self-evident that the bars would go back on the stem, although on reflection, maybe after the levers have been put on. IME, it depends on how much cable slack is available.

Curiously, I received a "Negative Rep" from *robdamanii* on that post. Like his previous "Negative Rep" (I have only received 2, both from robdamanii), it was an ad hominem attack and made no reference to the content in the post. All very odd.


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