# So I got my Ritchey Torque Key and



## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

5NM is wayyy up there, if this thing is calibrated correctly. I'm surprised. Took the wrench out of the retail packaging and proceeded to check all the 4mm bolts amongst the flock, and never felt the thing release. Used it for weeks, started to wonder if it was broken. Finally got it to >Ker-CHUNK< release when bolting in a new pair of pedal cleats. 

Either I haven't been bolting to 5NM with my wrenching to date, or this tool isn't calibrated correctly. Anybody test one?


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## JimboCO (May 5, 2009)

I haven't tested it but I was surprised as well. I still use it and always go to the click.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

I've used one for several years as I have Ritchey stems on all my bikes. It may seem like a lot of force, but part of that could be the fact that you don't have much leverage on the tool with the way it is designed so it gives the impression of requiring more force than is being applied. Regardless, it works and I have stripped a bolt or broken a set of carbon bars since I got it.


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## gospastic (Nov 8, 2008)

I used a Ritchey key to tighten my Ritchey stem. I was using FSA K-Force compacts. Ended up putting some indents in the bars. Boo.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

Haven't had any problems with the Easton or Ritchey carbon bars on my bikes. Maybe it was the bars, not the wrench?


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

"could be the fact that you don't have much leverage on the tool with the way it is designed so it gives the impression of requiring more force than is being applied"

That's very true.


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## turbomatic73 (Jan 22, 2004)

I just got one and thought the exact same thing. Seems like more torque than I would use for most 4mm bolts. You don't HAVE to torque it until it clicks...5nm I assume is the maximum recommended torque value.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

cdhbrad said:


> Haven't had any problems with the Easton or Ritchey carbon bars on my bikes. Maybe it was the bars, not the wrench?


Could also be the how. If one bolt was tightened all the way, then the other, you'd end up with a whole bunch of force at one end, and likely would ruin a set of bars.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Its not the tool. Alot of people don't have the "feel" of what certain torque specs are supposed to feel like because they are not doing it for a living and tightening stems/seat posts everyday.

You'd be surprised how much 5Nm is.


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## turbomatic73 (Jan 22, 2004)

Makes me wonder how someone would ever exceed 5nm when installing stem bolts...you'd really have to torque them pretty hard. If nothing else, the Ritchey key has been an assurance that I haven't been over torquing bolts for the last 20 years. 

Changing subjects...anyone know a way to get that 4mm hex bit out of there?


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Put it in a vise or use vise grip pliers and pull.


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

turbomatic73 said:


> Makes me wonder how someone would ever exceed 5nm when installing stem bolts...you'd really have to torque them pretty hard. If nothing else, the Ritchey key has been an assurance that I haven't been over torquing bolts for the last 20 years.
> 
> Changing subjects...anyone know a way to get that 4mm hex bit out of there?


it pulls out. the torque key feels like a lot of torque because it has a short lever arm.


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## Eric_H (Feb 5, 2004)

Funny this thread comes up. I just bought a Pedro's Demi torque wrench and set up a test station with a cut-off piece of carbon steerer and a Thomson X2 stem. I torqued the bolts to my "normal" torque using my trusty 4mm Bondhus allen wrench. Then I used the torque wrench set to 5 N-m and both bolts required more, like half a turn. I was so surprised that I borrowed my friends Ritchey Torque key to compare with the Pedro's Demi and lo and behold the two agree quite well. Which means for years I have consistently fallen below the 5 N-m mark for bar clamps and steerer clamps. But I have not had any problems with parts slipping so I think I'll mostly continue using my self-calibrated torque setting and only using the torque wrench if I have a slip problem.

But yes, I too was surprised to learn how tight 5 N-m actually is!


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## runnerstreet (Aug 8, 2010)

I just had a new Bontrager RXL Blade handlebar and a Bontrager XXX lite stem installed on my bike at my LBS. I tested the 4mm bolts once I got home with my Ritchey Torque Key and the Key clicked as soon as I tried to turn it. I assume my LBS torqued the bolts with the appropriate tool to the appropriate 5Nm specs.
Ritchey Torque Key: :thumbsup:


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## Pieter (Oct 17, 2005)

Shut up about the concerns of torqueing stem bolts. 

Next thing anxious manufacturers will equip all stems with proprietary shaped yielding or 'stretch' bolts as on car cylinder heads, requiring new bolts every time you reassemble something !!!!


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## clevewaterman (Sep 4, 2010)

I can't believe that the torque key I just received is set correctly. I can crank on it has hard as I dare and it does not click. I look at THIS VIDEO on the Internet at Competitive Cyclist. It looks like the guy is just barely turning the key before it clicks.


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## NEO Dan (Jun 10, 2010)

It's not broke -you've got girly girl technique 

Push with your thumb and forefinger at the ends of the tabs, or grip it in your palm.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

clevewaterman said:


> I can't believe that the torque key I just received is set correctly. I can crank on it has hard as I dare and it does not click. I look at THIS VIDEO on the Internet at Competitive Cyclist. It looks like the guy is just barely turning the key before it clicks.


read the previous posts...it's set correctly. you have to turn it pretty hard because it's so small. you have very little leverage on this tool, so it seems like you'd be over torqueing the bolts. go 'til it clicks, then stick a regular 4mm wrench in there and see how little force it takes to make it move.


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## Brycycle (Jun 21, 2007)

coming to this thread as i had the same issue-i can confirm it's the leverage that's causing the concerns.

firstly, i tested the key against a high-end torque wrench; it measured up.

then i attached a vise grip to the end of the key to increase the leverage. if you are used to using a 'regular' long-handled torque wrench, the 'feel' of force required will come where you'd expect it to.


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## yongkun (Aug 9, 2010)

My seatpost recommends 6Nm, if i were to get the Torqkey from Ritchey, is that enough at 5nM setting?


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## malanb (Oct 26, 2009)

its enuff. on 6nm max. I dont always click my torque key, but ity is tight, it doesnt to have 5nm or 6nm exactly , it is that you should not exceed this value 4nm is ok. Even with a normal allen key, those small ones, or the parktool ones, its almost impossible to torque more than 5nm


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

5Nm should be enough for your seat post clamp. If it doesn't slip at 5Nm, why crank it up to 6Nm?


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## Guppie58 (Oct 24, 2006)

I have it and thought the same thing. Compared to my craftsman torque and it's dead one. I think it's the leverage. I love that little wrench.


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## RTUNED87 (Aug 27, 2010)

I have the same tool and it has worked great for me.Also what do you guys think of the ritchey carbon parts are their stuff up top.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Giant offers a pretty slick "torque key" that comes in 2 different models (4 or 6 N-m) , and each driver comes with interchangeable 3, 4, and 5 mm bits.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/partsaccessories/product/112/30658/
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/partsaccessories/product/tool.shed.6nm.torqkey.torque.wrench/112/30659/

I normally use standard click-style torque wrenches, but these Giant tools seem especially convenient for traveling. Unfortunately, no local shop has these in stock.

edit: corrected error on hex bit sizes.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

double-posted


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## bon_gabs (Feb 2, 2010)

palm grip is the best way,



NEO Dan said:


> It's not broke -you've got girly girl technique
> 
> Push with your thumb and forefinger at the ends of the tabs, or grip it in your palm.


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## XR4Ti (Jul 8, 2008)

BTW, the technique that worked for me to pull out the glued-in bit was to clamp the bit in a vice and pry against the rest of the tool with a screwdriver. That way you can work your way around the bit.


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## bon_gabs (Feb 2, 2010)

Looks very hard for me and besides dont have a vice,just wondering if theres a chemical that can disolve the glue inside,I tried the acetone but no luck.


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

bon_gabs said:


> Looks very hard for me and besides dont have a vice,just wondering if theres a chemical that can disolve the glue inside,I tried the acetone but no luck.


 vise grips and pry around that


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## 6-Speed (Sep 9, 2010)

5Nm is equivalent to 44.26 lb-in. You have to apply 44.26 pounds of force at one inch from the center of the tool to achieve 5Nm. As a reference, a bag of Morton water softener salt weighs 40 lbs. That tool doesn't look like it offers too much leverage, so you have to compensate with force. At 2 inches from center you have to apply about 22 pounds to achieve 5 Nm. 

I don't think there's anything wrong with the tool, just an issue with your perception of torque.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

bon_gabs said:


> Looks very hard for me and besides dont have a vice,just wondering if theres a chemical that can disolve the glue inside,I tried the acetone but no luck.


Next thing I'd try is heating it. A lot of glue softens when heated. Try a heat gun or hair dryer on high or maybe even hot or boiling water.


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## jbiking (Mar 30, 2012)

Just used a propane torch to get the 4mm allen wrench out on the advice of local bike shop. Took about 30 seconds of low heat and it slipped out like butter. Now I got a 5nm torque wrench for all sizes.


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