# Campy 11sp chainring bolts %@#



## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Chainring bolt woes ... 

Was installing new rings, and despite the bolts being greased up and torqued to the proper 70 in-lb, couple of them stripped threads. No racing for me tomorrow 

Campy bolts are ridiculously expensive -- $85+ for a set and none in stock locally.

One possibility is the KCNC aluminum alloy bolts from Fairwheel Bikes, fairly priced @ $22 per set, plus horrendous shipping charges for next-day delivery. KCNC Campagnolo Chainring Bolts : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique 

Anyone used the KCNC bolts? How are they?

However, they are aluminum and now I am leery.

Another possibility is using Fulcrum-brand bolts ... as many of you know, Fulcrum is just another brand produced by Campy.

The Fulcrum cranksets appear identical to Campy cranksets, except for some superficial cosmetics.
FULCRUM Wheels - Crankset

What's interesting, is that the bolts for the "Racing Torq R" crankset appear identical to Campy bolts (can't be certain) and better yet -- appear to be steel, not aluminum ! 

Check out the "R Steel Bolt Kit" , $53, at Universal Cycles -- Fulcrum Chainring Bolts & Nuts

If it's steel, I wouldn't mind (too much) paying the $53 to get more durable bolts. Grease and the surface anodizations should prevent any aluminum-steel corrosions.

Wondering if anyone's used the Fulcrum bolts before?
.


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## mackgoo (Mar 2, 2004)

What's a couple? you can't ride missing a couple? I'm sure you've checked but just to make sure is it stripped or is the inside nut just spinning?


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

I also just measured the thickness of the mounting tabs on the Stronglight 11sp chainrings I was installing, and _large_ ring was about 0.5mm thicker than the Campy ring it was replacing. 

Tab thicknesses of the _small_ ring are the same on both Stronglight & Campy.
ADDED: the depth of the 'shoulder' on rear side of Stronglight small ring is slightly shallower than Campy ring. So, the male screw protrudes about 0.5mm less.

REVISED: Net effect is the Campy chainring bolts were getting 1mm less thread engagement when used on Stronglight rings. That's a lot , estimate roughly 20% less engagement and 20% less strength, especially with these shallow-thread, soft aluminum bolts.

Seems the only hope is using the steel Fulcrum bolts, as long as they are the same dimension as Campy bolts. 20% less engagement shouldn't matter on the much stronger steel bolts.

Will call Campy USA on Monday and see if they can confirm Fulcrum bolt sizing.

The Stronglight rings look nicely manufactured, but at this point it looks like no bargain: stripped original Campy bolts and now another $55 + shipping for new steel bolts.

Would have been better off paying the extra $$ for genuine Campy chainrings :cryin:


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

mackgoo said:


> What's a couple? you can't ride missing a couple? I'm sure you've checked but just to make sure is it stripped or is the inside nut just spinning?


No, I 'm not going to race and compete in all-out field sprints with known mechanical problems  A jumped or jammed chain from a bent chainring would be catastrophic to me and those around me.

I've removed the bolts/nuts and confirmed the threads are stripped


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## mrcreosote (Sep 9, 2010)

IIRC Fulcrum Cranksets are equivalent to Campagnolo 10 Speed 

Your best bet is to compare the relevant spare parts manuals from the campy and fulcrum websites

The official Campagnolo web site - Bicycle Parts and Components Cycling - Technical documentation
FULCRUM Wheels - Documents: Road

From what I can see of the campy manual there is a difference between Record/Chorus 11speed, and lower grade 11 speed - seems like the small chainring of the Record/Chorus 11speed is threaded - so even within Campag, not all 11 speed cranksets are the same


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

mrcreosote said:


> IIRC Fulcrum Cranksets are equivalent to Campagnolo 10 Speed
> Your best bet is to compare the relevant spare parts manuals from the campy and fulcrum websites
> ...
> From what I can see of the campy manual there is a difference between Record/Chorus 11speed, and lower grade 11 speed - seems like the small chainring of the Record/Chorus 11speed is threaded - so even within Campag, not all 11 speed cranksets are the same


 Right ... the 2011 and newer Chorus/Record use the single bolt & threaded small chainring. 

2010 & earlier use the 2-piece bolt. In fact, it seems all carbon Chorus/Record cranksets (10sp & 11sp) as far back as 2007 use the same 2-piece bolt.

Campy & Fulcrum have different part numbering, unfortunately, so direct cross-referencing isn't easy.

I am hoping Campy USA can confirm the Fulcrum steel bolts are interchangeable with Campy aluminum bolts. If not I may take the chance, anyway. 

I am really hating aluminum chainring bolts. For such an infinitesimal reduction in weight, there is a LARGE reduction in strength.


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## QQUIKM3 (Apr 20, 2008)

*They work great!*



tom_h said:


> Anyone used the KCNC bolts? How are they?


I stripped Campy's shitt& bolts too. I'd never buy Campy's bolts. The KCNC ones worked beautifully.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Good feedback on KCNC. 

I'll post a more detailed update later, but basically:

-- Stronglight 11sp chainrings are working very well.

-- the steel Fulcrum bolts I ordered, turned out to be Campy aluminum bolts with a Fulcrum sticker on the box! 

Not sure of this bolt substitution was done by retailer (Universal Cycles, OR) or their distributor. Would much rather have had steel bolts, but I was "hard down" and couldn't tolerate another couple days delay.


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## dananton485 (Apr 20, 2018)

Yes, I know the feeling. I've been working on Campagnolo bikes since the 1980's. Never used a torque wrench but got one and decided to follow all guidelines. Broke off my front derailleur cable arm so I won't use a torque wrench on that anymore. Wrench was clalibrated, but I went against my intuition which felt it was too tight. Before this, I had never broken a part by hand tightening it. Though I do confess I have stripped out a cheap Chinese alloy chainring or two in my lifetime. Haven't done that for years and also I have never had any of my bolts come loose without using a torque wrench. I'm not sure where they come up with the numbers but they sure seem on the high side to me. So I use the torque wrench now mainly for the bottom bracket. I don't even use it for the cassette lock ring anymore as I found the specs on that to be way too tight. Again haven't ever had any problems. If you do use a torque wrench I would drop the setting lower than specified

Was installing new rings, and despite the bolts being greased up and torqued to the proper 70 in-lb, couple of them stripped threads. No racing for me tomorrow 

Campy bolts are ridiculously expensive -- $85+ for a set and none in stock locally.

One possibility is the KCNC aluminum alloy bolts from Fairwheel Bikes, fairly priced @ $22 per set, plus horrendous shipping charges for next-day delivery. KCNC Campagnolo Chainring Bolts : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

Anyone used the KCNC bolts? How are they?

However, they are aluminum and now I am leery.

Another possibility is using Fulcrum-brand bolts ... as many of you know, Fulcrum is just another brand produced by Campy.

The Fulcrum cranksets appear identical to Campy cranksets, except for some superficial cosmetics.
FULCRUM Wheels - Crankset

What's interesting, is that the bolts for the "Racing Torq R" crankset appear identical to Campy bolts (can't be certain) and better yet -- appear to be steel, not aluminum ! 

Check out the "R Steel Bolt Kit" , $53, at Universal Cycles -- Fulcrum Chainring Bolts & Nuts

If it's steel, I wouldn't mind (too much) paying the $53 to get more durable bolts. Grease and the surface anodizations should prevent any aluminum-steel corrosions.

Wondering if anyone's used the Fulcrum bolts before?
.
[/QUOTE]


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

dananton485 said:


> Yes, I know the feeling. I've been working on Campagnolo bikes since the 1980's. Never used a torque wrench but got one and decided to follow all guidelines. Broke off my front derailleur cable arm so I won't use a torque wrench on that anymore. Wrench was clalibrated, but I went against my intuition which felt it was too tight. Before this, I had never broken a part by hand tightening it. Though I do confess I have stripped out a cheap Chinese alloy chainring or two in my lifetime. Haven't done that for years and also I have never had any of my bolts come loose without using a torque wrench. I'm not sure where they come up with the numbers but they sure seem on the high side to me. So I use the torque wrench now mainly for the bottom bracket. I don't even use it for the cassette lock ring anymore as I found the specs on that to be way too tight. Again haven't ever had any problems. If you do use a torque wrench I would drop the setting lower than specified
> 
> Was installing new rings, and despite the bolts being greased up and torqued to the proper 70 in-lb, couple of them stripped threads. No racing for me tomorrow
> 
> ...


It sounds like you need to ditch that torque wrench and find one that works.


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## dananton485 (Apr 20, 2018)

Lombard said:


> It sounds like you need to ditch that torque wrench and find one that works.


Well it’s brand new and has a calibration certificate. I think the extra stress of the of the wrench on the arm was the issue. Though the bolt itself did not snap off the front derailleur aluminum pivot arm did break. There was some age on the part so not sure if there is a loss of strength on such parts over time. I would still say torque wrench for bottom brackets and maybe stem and seatpost bolts. Again never had any other parts break on me using my hand.


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## dananton485 (Apr 20, 2018)

tom_h said:


> Chainring bolt woes ...
> 
> Was installing new rings, and despite the bolts being greased up and torqued to the proper 70 in-lb, couple of them stripped threads. No racing for me tomorrow
> 
> ...


Was wondering what the 2011 super record crank bolts are made of. Are they aluminum steel or titanium. They are black in color. I am waiting for the cranks to ship to me also would not mind putting in some aftermarket blue bolts. Or maybe I’ll get the OEM ones anodized in blue not crazy about the black color


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

dananton485 said:


> Well it’s brand new and has a calibration certificate.


That does not mean a thing if it doesn't work properly which this one obviously doesn't. Are you sure it was never dropped? What brand is it?

And remember, new does not mean good. New means it has never, ever worked.


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