# 5 to 6 speed conversion



## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

*5 to 6 (or 7) speed conversion*

While ridding my old Gitane (new to me), I was wondering if I could put a 6sp flywheel in place of the 5sp. I measured the dropouts, and they where 125mm ish, so I thought, why not just try a 6sp wheel?

It fits in the drops fine, but I am having trouble with the biggest cog. It does not want to shift into that gear, and the der is REALLY close to the spokes, and there is no spoke protector on that wheel. There is still more left on the der stop adjustment, but I dont want to get into the spokes. Am I doing something I am not supposed to? or do I need to go buy some more patience?


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

From memory, when I switched from 5 to 6 spd back in the day, it required a longer axle for the hub (from 120mm to 126 mm) and a slight re-dish on the rear wheel. Then you can get the cluster sitting in the middle of the usable range of the derailleur & also not have clearance issues. Sometimes you need to add a spacer between the cluster and the bottom of the threading on the hub.

In my case the derailleur was Campy so travel was not an issue...

If you have solid axles you may get away with just adding washers, (see Sheldon Brown's article): who does however confirm the redish:

"If you are increasing the spacing of a derailer-type wheel for the purpose of increasing the number of sprockets, you'll generally be adding space to the right side only. If you do this, you'll need to "re-dish" the wheel, by pulling the rim to the right. This is done by tightening the spokes on the right side of the wheel and/or loosening those on the left side. If you don't have experience with wheel truing, this may be a job you're not yet ready for."


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

The low limit screw needs to be adjusted so that the RD can reach that last cog. Adjust it until it just clears the spokes then give it a tiny bit more so that it does not hit them.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

Is this a freewheel or cassette?


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

5 speed (and ultra 6 speed freewheels) were normally for 120mm hubs. 6 & 7 speed freewheels were for 126mm hubs. If the largest cog is too close to the spokes, you can put a bottom bracket spacer between the hub and freewheel (that will move you out 1 mm or so) If you use too many spacers, your chain may hit the drop out when you're in your smallest cog.


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## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

I thought at first that the wheel I grabbed was a 6sp wheel, but it wasnt. It was a 5sp, but I put a 6sp flywheel on it, and it fit right in the frame, so the frame must have been 126mm drops already.

The der still has adjustment, but I am super close to the spokes. How close is too close, without a spoke protector? Right now there is about 2.5mm between the spokes and the derailleur. it looks like there is some room on the small cog side, so I think the spacer between the flywheel might just be the ticket.


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## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

Would taking it closer to the spokes get you into the biggest cog?


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## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

dmar836 said:


> Would taking it closer to the spokes get you into the biggest cog?


I would assume so, but I dont feel comfortable with the derailleur being any closer then it is now.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Two of my bikes are adjusted so that I can hear the spokes being plucked lightly when I'm on my largest rear cog. I don't like the sound but moving the cage outwards to eliminate the sound also means that the chain does not shift to that cog decisively.


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## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

I have mine just a whisker from the spokes on a few. I wouldn't want it hitting the spokes when I'm climbing/sprinting but if the derailleur/hanger fails and hits the spokes, 2.5mm clearance will not likely make any difference. But that's just my opinion. Remember, the derailleur spring causes a default to your smallest cog.
Dave
KC


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## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

Well, I got it to go onto the largest cog. In order to do that I had to back the limit screw all the way out. There is no tension on it at all now. At this point the spokes still do not touch. Since the limit screw is all the way backed out, does that mean that it will not go into the spokes?

Now that I have got it working, I have noticed that the freewheel, does not freewheel very well. :mad2: When I walk next to the bike the pedals move like on a fixie. Can these be freed up somehow, or is it time for a new one?

If I am going to replace the freewheel, maybe I should go for a 7sp hyperglide, or IRD...??

By the way the rear derailuer is a Suntour V-GT.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Shift the RD into the largest rear cog then screw in the limit screw until it makes contact. When it does back it out a quarter turn. Take it for a test spin. With the limit screw backed out like that you are now capable of putting the cage into the spokes.

I'm not sure what you can do about the freewheel. Maybe take it out and lube it with some oil or something? Didn't they used to make fittings that allow you to inject grease into these things?


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## bane (Aug 30, 2006)

Check Sheldon Brown on this. There's a pretty large section dedicated to freewheels, upgrading to 6 speed, and maintenance.


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