# Tips on brake and shifter cable routing



## Atomant (Jul 14, 2009)

Hi are there any links to how should I route the cables on my bars? Are the shifter cables suppose to be in front or at the back of the brake cables? Also, how short can I run the rear derailleur housing cable before it's too short?


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

A couple of thoughts. It really makes no difference but assuming your brake cables/housing run under the bar tape and the shifter cables/housing don't (typical Shimano style unless you've got the latest and greatest Shimano or Campy where both run under the tape) then the shifter cable/housing would be in front. I run my shift cable/housing from the right brifter to the left cable stop and visa versa. I then cross the cables under the downtube. Mainly because I think it looks better and has a better bend in the housing. How tight is too tight? Turn your wheel all the way to the right and left and make sure the housing doesn't limit the turn (doesn't bind on the head tube and stop the wheel from being turned fully one way or the other). This will ensure sufficient housing length. You can go a little shorter because you'll never turn your wheel anywhere near that much while riding but you might while off the bike or maneuvering it to get it into a car, etc.


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

Mel Erickson said:


> ....... I run my shift cable/housing from the right brifter to the left cable stop and visa versa. I then cross the cables under the downtube. Mainly because I think it looks better and has a better bend in the housing. ...........


I think you've summed it up nicely. 

Another thing to do is visit a good LBS. You'll get some idea of cable routing by looking at new bikes. You might also notice some with good routing and some with not so good routing!

Last spring, I put on my new "latest and greatest Shimano" with all cables under the bar tape. Also used the criss-cross cable routing for the shifters but soon changed back to the traditional routing. I thought there was some negative trade-off in having the cables entering the guide at an angle under the bottom bracket. But Sheldon Brown and the Park Tool 7900 set-up tips both suggested the criss-cross method so I had to try it.

I think I'm just too "symetrical" to have my cables crossing that way.


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## Jesse D Smith (Jun 11, 2005)

Atomant said:


> Hi are there any links to how should I route the cables on my bars? Are the shifter cables suppose to be in front or at the back of the brake cables? Also, how short can I run the rear derailleur housing cable before it's too short?


Two common mistakes I find involve bad housing lengths. 
1. People use too long a length for the housing section from the rearward top tube brake housing stop to the caliper. 
2. People use too short a length for the rear deraillaur housing loop. 

Once again, Sheldon shows how it's done.


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

I have Campy and use the criss cross setup and find it works great. I especially like the look up front and the nice housing bends. Haven't noticed any problem at the bottom bracket but that's probably more related to how the little plastic guide under the BB routes cables.


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## Atomant (Jul 14, 2009)

Mel Erickson said:


> A couple of thoughts. It really makes no difference but assuming your brake cables/housing run under the bar tape and the shifter cables/housing don't (typical Shimano style unless you've got the latest and greatest Shimano or Campy where both run under the tape) then the shifter cable/housing would be in front. I run my shift cable/housing from the right brifter to the left cable stop and visa versa. I then cross the cables under the downtube. Mainly because I think it looks better and has a better bend in the housing. How tight is too tight? Turn your wheel all the way to the right and left and make sure the housing doesn't limit the turn (doesn't bind on the head tube and stop the wheel from being turned fully one way or the other). This will ensure sufficient housing length. You can go a little shorter because you'll never turn your wheel anywhere near that much while riding but you might while off the bike or maneuvering it to get it into a car, etc.


Yes I am using dura ace 7900 and I believe I can only do this once so I need to make sure how to route the cables so I don't cut the cables too short! :mad2:


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## Atomant (Jul 14, 2009)

Mel Erickson said:


> I have Campy and use the criss cross setup and find it works great. I especially like the look up front and the nice housing bends. Haven't noticed any problem at the bottom bracket but that's probably more related to how the little plastic guide under the BB routes cables.


Well I am using the 'non criss cross' method and it looks like if i were gonna criss cross the cables, it's gonna rub against the downtube. If it does would that be okay or should I just stick with the 'parallel' routing? I am using a carbon frame by the way.


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

Try it and see if it rubs. If it does, don't use it and route the "normal" way. It's not that big a deal either way.


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## Mel Erickson (Feb 3, 2004)

Do you mean cut the cables or cut the housing? You can rig it up without cutting the cables or housing to see how it looks/works. I assume your housing lengths are pre-cut and may need some tweaking when you do the install. Just install temporarily with the pre-cut housing lengths and take a gander. You'll see what sections need to be trimmed. Don't cut the cable until you're completely done with the install, then leave a reasonable amount of cable beyond the clamping bolt (2.5 inches is plenty, just don't go too short, you can always cut more off if you want). Do you have a cable/housing cutter or a dremel tool? If you don't, get one to cut your housing and cable. Also, don't forget to trim the burrs off the ends of the housing after cutting and make sure the housing is not ovalized on the end from cutting. Also make sure the inner housing is fully open and won't restrict the cable. I trim up the ends of the cable housing with a bench grinder but you can use a dremel or other suitable tool. I open up the inner housing with a thin finish nail of suitable size.


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