# Shimano SPD-SL cleat bolts?



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I want to put the LOOK Keo cleats on Shimano carbon sole shoes,
the look screws measure 1/2" long (about13mm) including the bolt head.

it seems it's long enough to go past the threaded area of the sole and screw into the insole, that is not good..

So I noticed Shimano standard cleat bolts are supposed to be 10mm, that sounds perfect.
Does anyone know when they say 10mm that includes the head or does 10mm just refer to the threaded part?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

from this picture the washer that comes with Shimano's has a tapered surface, would the Shimano bolts work well with the Look washers?


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

The screws are of different lengths because the cleats and washers are different. Given that I've never heard any complaints about Keo cleat screws being too long, chances are good that the issue you're concerned about doesn't exist. Just put on the Keo cleats with Keo cleat screws. If there is a problem, you'll feel it clearly in the hand that turns the wrench/screw driver. For what it's worth, Shimano SPD-SL standard cleat screws are M5 x 8 mm, with optional M5 x 13.5 mm screws available. Keo cleat screws are M5 x 12 mm last time I looked. _Edit_: there are/were some cleat screw problems with SIDI shoes, but I can't remember the details.

/w


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## Maximus_XXIV (Nov 10, 2008)

Some of my Sidis have too thin a sole for the look cleats. I just found other screws that worked until I moved to Shimano a few years ago.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

wim said:


> For what it's worth, Shimano SPD-SL standard cleat screws are M5 x 8 mm, with optional M5 x 13.5 mm screws available. Keo cleat screws are M5 x 12 mm last time I looked. _Edit_: there are/were some cleat screw problems with SIDI shoes, but I can't remember the details.
> 
> /w


I am planning to grab the SPD-SL cleats from a store and see where they stick out beyond the cleat into the shoe.
As far as I know some SIDI owners needed longer screws to use SPD-SL cleats to get more thread engagements or something. I found Shimano bolts comes in 10mm and 13.5mm and to the 8mm listed 

There is a thin board between the insole and outsole, I don't really want the 4mm longer screw of the Keo to dig into it since the shoes are pretty darn expensive. I think it would 95% be fine to do but I don't really want to be stepping on them.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PoorCyclist said:


> I don't really want the 4mm longer screw of the Keo to dig into it since the shoes are pretty darn expensive.


Understand, but why do you think this might happen? The extra 4 mm may well be there for a reason, like thicker cleats, thicker washers, a shallower washer well or a combination of some or all of these variations. Drill the lightly greased screws into the shoes without the cleats and measure how much thread is left when the screws bottom out. Then measure cleat thickness + washer thickness at the mounting point(s) and do a little math to see what's what. Why guess?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

So I measured the SPD-SL cleat screws vs the LOOK Keo
the LOOK Keo bolts are about 2-3mm longer than the Shimano after the cleat.

It is a foamy shoe floor material (white) at the end of the threads in the picture.. it would dig into that a little bit.. and then there is the removable insole. Above it.
BTW Shimano bolts do not work with the slot washers of the LOOK.


Not sure what to do:
1) just install it and hope that it won't cause foot problems, it may dig into the shoe floor by 1mm or so.
On a second thought, the tiny nubs on top of the cleat where it makes contact with the sole gives a tiny bit of clearance back too, not sure if those get crushed down when installed.
2) grind down each screw by 2mm. 
3) buy an extra slot washer for each screw makes it same protuded height as Shimano

I think I may just do (1) and go ahead, between the shoe floor and insole there are alot of give.. I poked the floor from the screw holes and it just crush slightly, I can't feel any issues from inside


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks like you have the Shimano R315 with the custom-fit insoles.

I'm using the Shimano R132 carbon soled shoes - similar to yours but without the custom-fit insoles - with Look Keo cleats. I am using the screws that came with the Keo cleats. They are long enough to secure the cleat to the shoe without protruding too far into the shoe.

Just use the Keo screws.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

frdfandc said:


> Looks like you have the Shimano R315 with the custom-fit insoles.
> 
> I'm using the Shimano R132 carbon soled shoes - similar to yours but without the custom-fit insoles - with Look Keo cleats. I am using the screws that came with the Keo cleats. They are long enough to secure the cleat to the shoe without protruding too far into the shoe.
> 
> Just use the Keo screws.


Yes R315. I havn't ridden it yet, it feels really comfortable just wearing them\.. even more than the specialized S-works. The tongue is superior IMO


I just installed the Keo Cleats with all the stock hardware.. 

BTW Shimano specs these torque at 5-6nm!? seems like alot, I am using a long 3mm hex key and just applying further out the long end until the key starts to flex, with the grippy texture I think it will hold OK, I also didn't want to cinch them down so far since I may end up adjusting it the next few rides.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

I tighten all cleats I install - mine and customers - by hand. No torque wrench.

I use that old German specification. Good-n-tight.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

Hi frdfandc, do you know if these shoes have a thinner sole than cheaper shoes with non-carbons?

trying to figure out if the stack height is affected..


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PoorCyclist said:


> BTW Shimano specs these torque at 5-6nm!?.


Not a lot, really. 6 Nm = 53 inch-pound, so at the end of a 3-inch lever, you apply 53/3 = 17 pounds worth of force. But as said, just tighten them. I've never used a torque wrench on these things and have had no issues. The screws are softer steel by design, so if you overtighten them, they'll strip before the shoe inserts will.

Those tiny nubs you were talking about are supposed to dig down into the sole to keep the cleat from shifting. Once you know where you want the cleats, tighten the screws some more after the first longer ride. And as always with these type of arrangements, tighten sequentially and in increments when installing/re-installing.


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## StillKeen (Oct 4, 2005)

I was re-fitting my SPD-SL cleats to my Sidi's and the screws werent long enough. Anyone know how to go about getting the longer 13mm versions? They werent included with the cleats I purchased.


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## StillKeen (Oct 4, 2005)

Opps, a quick search found

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...g-bolts-for-SPD-SL-6-pcs/SHIMPEDZ750000000000


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

PoorCyclist said:


> Hi frdfandc, do you know if these shoes have a thinner sole than cheaper shoes with non-carbons?
> 
> trying to figure out if the stack height is affected..




No idea. I just have a feeling that you are over thinking things here.

With the installation of cleats on shoes that I do at the LBS I work at, its either they work properly or they don't. And I make the adjustments required to fit the cleats to the shoes. 


As for "stack height" as you are calling it, is this when you are clipped in? If so, just make any adjustments you have to make. Seat height, saddle position, ect. Once you get it dialed in, just try and stick with the same shoe/cleat combo.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

StillKeen said:


> I was re-fitting my SPD-SL cleats to my Sidi's and the screws werent long enough. Anyone know how to go about getting the longer 13mm versions? They werent included with the cleats I purchased.


Another source:
http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp...ing+Bolts&vendorCode=SHIMSHOE&major=5&minor=6


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

I use Look Keos on all my shoes. I use 5mm stainless steel screws I purchase from a local hardware store in the lengths I need. I use shims under one cleat to adjust for leg length so those are longer. A bonus is that they have Phillips heads and you can really tighten them down more with a long screwdriver than with a hex wrench. They are really cheap too relative to the cycling specific screws, etc. being discussed.


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## portinho6 (May 16, 2012)

I have SPD-SL cleats/pedals for my road bike and I tried using my shoes for a spinning class and couldn't get them to work. I got impatient and switched to regular shoes. It appears that the class is using SPD pedals. Can you confirm that I will not be able to use my shoes because they are not compatible. Thanks,


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