# Best Freewheel for SS



## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

I bought and installed a Shimano freewheel for my Phil Wood hub. Got the 20T and found it was a little too easy so wanted to replace it with a 18T. Trying to remove the Shimano freewheel the connection points for the freewheel removal tool (not sure the real name for them..there are two of them) shattered. So now I have to have the LBS remove the freewheel. What I want to know is there a good brand out there that is good quality and can be removed without stripping with the removal tool?

Here is what I currently have: 
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=8186


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## BianchiJoe (Jul 22, 2005)

Every Shimano FW I've ever used had four points of contact for the tool, rather than two. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, get another Shimano or ACS like this one:










But to really answer your question, the White Industries ENO freewheel is the best (a lot of) money can buy.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Tahoma said:


> I bought and installed a Shimano freewheel for my Phil Wood hub. Got the 20T and found it was a little too easy so wanted to replace it with a 18T. Trying to remove the Shimano freewheel the connection points for the freewheel removal tool (not sure the real name for them..there are two of them) shattered. So now I have to have the LBS remove the freewheel. What I want to know is there a good brand out there that is good quality and can be removed without stripping with the removal tool?
> 
> Here is what I currently have:
> http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=8186


The Shimano freewheel should be removable without trouble if you do everything right. Did you grease the threads? did you use the axle nut to hold the tool in place when you tried to loosen it? Busting up freewheel notches generally happens only with long-stuck parts, and that doesn't sound like your situation.

Anyway, if easy removal is the only issue, you should be able to get another Shimano or ACS freewheel and learn how to do it right. As Joe said, White is the premium freewheel, but it will cost 3-4 times as much as a Shimano. then again, you have a Phil Wood hub, so what's money?


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## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

JCavilia said:


> The Shimano freewheel should be removable without trouble if you do everything right. Did you grease the threads? did you use the axle nut to hold the tool in place when you tried to loosen it? Busting up freewheel notches generally happens only with long-stuck parts, and that doesn't sound like your situation.
> 
> Anyway, if easy removal is the only issue, you should be able to get another Shimano or ACS freewheel and learn how to do it right. As Joe said, White is the premium freewheel, but it will cost 3-4 times as much as a Shimano. then again, you have a Phil Wood hub, so what's money?


Yes...I generously greased the threads when I installed the freewheel. I don't have bolts but hex nuts (I believe 6mm). I completely removed the hex nuts on both sides before using the shimano freewheel tool. I'll try and see if I can get a four connection point / spine for the new freewheel instead of the two I have now. The two connection point just doesn't seem deep enough for the tool that is supposed to be used for it.


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## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

BianchiJoe said:


> Every Shimano FW I've ever used had four points of contact for the tool, rather than two. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, get another Shimano or ACS like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you. I'll look into all three of these options. Maybe I was sold an old model of the freewheel since it only had two points of contact?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Tahoma said:


> . I don't have bolts but hex nuts (I believe 6mm). I completely removed the hex nuts on both sides before using the shimano freewheel tool. .


Actually, you got that first part backwards, but I know what you mean. The Phil hubs use bolts instead of the nuts used on most other designs.

However, the point I was trying to make (not so clearly, sorry) is the same. The normal practice in removing a freewheel is to remove the axle nuts, or bolts (or quick release) -- you have to take them off to get the tool on -- but then, after placing the tool, put the nut or bolt back on, and tighten it down snug but not too tight against the tool. That prevents the tool from slipping out of the notches when you put force on it. Once it breaks loose, you have to loosen the nut to keep unthreading it.

I still don't know what kind of freewheel you have that has only two notches.


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## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

JCavilia said:


> The Shimano freewheel should be removable without trouble if you do everything right. Did you grease the threads? did you use the axle nut to hold the tool in place when you tried to loosen it? Busting up freewheel notches generally happens only with long-stuck parts, and that doesn't sound like your situation.
> 
> Anyway, if easy removal is the only issue, you should be able to get another Shimano or ACS freewheel and learn how to do it right. As Joe said, White is the premium freewheel, but it will cost 3-4 times as much as a Shimano. then again, you have a Phil Wood hub, so what's money?


I took another look at the freewheel removal tool and I now see what you mean by using the hex nut / bolt to hold the tool in place. I was just using my hand and then a wrench. I'll give it another try with the nut holding the freewheel tool, thank you for that tip.


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## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

JCavilia said:


> Actually, you got that first part backwards, but I know what you mean. The Phil hubs use bolts instead of the nuts used on most other designs.
> 
> However, the point I was trying to make (not so clearly, sorry) is the same. The normal practice in removing a freewheel is to remove the axle nuts, or bolts (or quick release) -- you have to take them off to get the tool on -- but then, after placing the tool, put the nut or bolt back on, and tighten it down snug but not too tight against the tool. That prevents the tool from slipping out of the notches when you put force on it. Once it breaks loose, you have to loosen the nut to keep unthreading it.
> 
> I still don't know what kind of freewheel you have that has only two notches.


Thank you...this is exactly what I needed to know. Wish I had asked before I tried to remove it. I think I still might be able to remove it using your method. Here is a link to one I have on right now: 

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_333_688&products_id=8186

The grooves are very shallow though and I bought this one because it was for a 1/8" chain which I use on my SS.


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## MADMAXB (Mar 1, 2010)

They make a Shimano tool just for those style freewheels u can get it from the same place u got the freewheel  
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=270_272&products_id=9568

Another helpful tip is once u get the tool and the wheel nut on the wheel put in a bench vise (clamping on the tool only) and just turn the wheel with ur hands : u get better leverage on it.:thumbsup:


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## Tahoma (Feb 4, 2005)

MADMAXB said:


> They make a Shimano tool just for those style freewheels u can get it from the same place u got the freewheel
> http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=270_272&products_id=9568
> 
> Another helpful tip is once u get the tool and the wheel nut on the wheel put in a bench vise (clamping on the tool only) and just turn the wheel with ur hands : u get better leverage on it.:thumbsup:


Yes...got that freewheel tool...it's just that the contact points are very shallow and don't hold the tool very well. But now I know the trick to that. Thank you for the tip of also using the bench vise!


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