# Fixing Carbon Fiber chips



## Cpk (Aug 1, 2009)

My Wilier and one of the Record break levers have a few little spots where the epoxy on the CF has chipped off. None of it is structural, I guess I could sand the spots lightly and apply epoxy OR just not be so OCD and leave it alone. Any recommendations, epoxy brand, techniques, etc?

I can post pics later of what I am talking about if that would help


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## Amfoto1 (Feb 16, 2010)

No. The clear coat is a paint finish, not epoxy. Don't use epoxy for these types of touch ups. 

Little spots? 

Sand lightly, or just scrape lightly with the edge of an Xacto knife to get any of the old clear coat that's coming loose or peeling off, then wipe off any oiliness or dirt with rubbing alcohol and/or lacquer thinned, and then retouch with clear fingernail polish. 

Or instead get automotive clearcoat touchup if you wish.

It might take a couple applications to fill deeper nicks. Let it dry completely (days or a week or two). Then, if the touchup is a little too thick or isn't as smooth as you'd like, it can be very carefully wet sanded with very fine sandpaper (800, 1200, 1500 grit). Then use a fine polish to buff it back up to a high gloss. Small spots can be polished by hand.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Clear fingernail polish.. It's thicker than paint and will fill in voids


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## rcjunkie3000 (Sep 5, 2009)

+1 on the clear fingernail polish. :thumbsup:


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## Cpk (Aug 1, 2009)

*Thanks Guys!*

Clear nail polish it is then!


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

1. Clean the damaged area thoroughly with alcohol.

2. Carefully inspect the chip or scratch to see that there is no chipping or peeling paint along the edges of the damaged area. If there is, take a sharp Exacto knife and carefully chip the peeling paint away until you have a clean edge that won’t lift.

3. Assuming you have found paint that matches, shake it up very thoroughly – very thoroughly. After you’ve done that, shake it up very thoroughly again. If you’re using nail polish you can skip this step.

4. Apply the paint using a small brush or a toothpick. If it’s a scratch or a chip the size of a half a pea, I’ve found the toothpick works better. Depending on the size of the damaged area you might want to apply several light coats instead of one heavy one. You can do this pretty quickly because the paint will dry within 15-20 min. Don’t be afraid to ”color outside the lines.” When you’re finished it won’t show.

5. After you’ve applied the paint it’s very important to inspect the area to make sure the paint you’ve just applied is HIGHER than the surrounding area. If it isn’t – apply more paint until it is. It MUST BE HIGHER than the surrounding area.

OK! Here comes the “scary” part for most people.

6. Gently wet sand the repair using 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper. If you have trouble finding it, look at an auto parts store. Be careful here! Go slowly. Don’t press hard. You don’t want to sand the paint off the surrounding area. Tear off a small piece of the sandpaper and dip it in a container of water. Your goal is to just smooth out and blend in the repaired area. Sand a little – check it---- sand a little – check it. Use plenty of water. Check to make sure the paint is level by running your fingertip across it. 

7. The paint will be “foggy” from sanding. Get some polishing compound (NOT rubbing compound). Rubbing compound is more abrasive than polishing compound. Polishing compound is almost always white, and comes in a can that looks like paste wax. In a small container put a finger scoop of polishing compound and some water. Stir it up. I like to get so it’s about the consistency of cream of tomato soup. Looser is better than too firm or thick.

8. Using the mixed polishing compound, dip the corner of a clean, cotton rag in it and gently rub the “foggy” area until shiny. Rub a little, wipe it off to check it, rub a little more, check it, etc.

9. Apply clear coat if desired. You may have to rub the clear out with the polishing compound as well.

10. You’re done.

No repair is ever perfect. Because you’re the owner you’ll always be able to see it. The real purpose is to decrease the contrast between the repair and the original paint so that nobody else will notice. As long as you don’t point it out, other folks are quite unlikely to notice it.

A great way to practice is to find a piece of scrap of metal, paint it then scratch it, then try the above steps.


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## Cpk (Aug 1, 2009)

*Thanks for the indepth response!*

I will be giving it a shot after my bike comes back from my LBS, took it in today to have it recabled,


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