# Winter MTB or studs for CX



## bike2kayak (Jul 13, 2012)

My daily commuter is a Trek X01 CX bike. I would like to setup a bike for icy conditions. I wiped out last year on black ice and was out for about 3 weeks due to groin injury. So my option is to get studded tires for cx (700x35) or buy a cheap mtb for ~$300 and get studded tires and only ride when streets are icy. My preference woud be to put the studs on my cx bike but wondering if better to have a dedicated ice bike. As I am in Denver there are lots of ice free days during winter and was wondering what performance of studs on dry pavement is like i.e. is it better to have a dedicated ice bike that only ride on nasty days. Thoughts much apreciatted.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

We opted for studded tires on our MTBs and never regretted it (but then we already owned the bikes).

Riding with good studs on dry pavement didn't hurt them at all but I do understand there are studded tires with low quality studs that wear out quickly. Get Nokiian tires and you should be fine.

It was quite the workout pedaling them things on dry surfaces but on ice they rolled like champs.

Note that in these photos we are riding on sheets of ice (not snow). There was no problem riding and turning or even stoping. The problem was that when we put our foot down it was very slippery indeed-better to keep riding!


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

When in doubt, N+1.

And I don't meant that in jest. 

My primary commuter has a lot of CX and a good dose of touring bike in its DNA. I run the 35mm Nokian Hakkapeliitta W106s on it in the winter. I wouldn't run anything but a studded tire. They're wonderful. 

Except, that they weigh 850 grams each and they're stiff. That makes them a real bear to push all winter. 

OTOH, you may even gain leg strength over the winter with them.

I've run them exclusively in the winter, and they really suck the joy out of a nice dry sunny day ride. I tried two sets of wheels, and that worked okay, but some mornings it was more work than I had time or energy for. 

What really worked for me was when I put fenders on my backup three-seasons commuter. Two commute-ready bikes, one with studs, one without. That's the ticket.


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## Scott B (Dec 1, 2004)

I think you could go either way and be fine for the riding side of things in icy conditions. Cyclocross width studded tires will get you plenty of traction. Studs are real slow on dry pavements in my experience and they are loud.

One other consideration is road salt and trying to preserve your primary bike. Not sure how heavily Denver salts their roads, but it's definitely hard on drive trains, or at a minimum requires very regular cleaning.

I'd probably go with the MTB myself, but more for non-riding and nice day considerations.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

When I lived in Wisconsin, I had a Trek tourer (mid-'80s 620) that I equipped with studded tires and fenders (also a little unconventional gearing--an old SA AW hub on a 700c wheel). I could ride in any conditions. I highly recommend studs!


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## CleavesF (Dec 31, 2007)

Once you stud, you never go back in snow and ice. Never.

The initial price is hard to swallow, but they'll last you many seasons. I own 2 mtb's but I opted to buy studs for the cyclocross 700c. I have no regrets. Sometimes when the stuff melts, there's huge standing puddles, which wouldn't be a problem on a summer MTB ride, but in winter you're just so low sometimes... I just like the extra clearance of 700c. 

Go for it, and tell yourself while riding, I should have done this sooner. 

Bruce is also correct that the rotating mass is beastmode. But that just makes spring riding so much faster and easier.


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## Scott B (Dec 1, 2004)

One additional thought on studded tires: definitely buy carbide ones. I've been real happy with my Nokian ones, Schwalbes seem to work well too. The plain steel ones (some of the cheap Kendas I believe) just don't last for riding on pavement.


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## saf-t (Sep 24, 2008)

Another happy Nokian owner here. The only reason I'd have a dedicated winter bike (which I do) is to minimize the effects of salt on drivetrain components. They apply it pretty freely here in New England, and even with an end of day rinse, stuff gets pretty well destroyed.


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## bikerector (Oct 31, 2012)

The past 2 winters I used a cx bike with kenda klondike studded tires and really liked them. Last year I had the rear tire start to lose studs sine I was using the bike for interval training and ran the tire pressure too high so the studs couldn't "suck" back into the tire as they're designed to.

I believe the kenda's are carbide tipped.

This season I've switched to a single speed mtb and and trying nokians. I'm hoping to be able to do a little more off-roading with them where the kenda's I was pretty well locked onto roads or gravel roads, they didn't handle ruts real well to get off the beaten path too much but handled snow, ice, and slush well.

Studded tires all the way for winter, much more predictable in corners, accelerations and decelerations.

Here's a good resource for studded tires I found, peter white cycles also has a page about but I don't have the link handy.

http://varsitybike.com/studdedtires/


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## bike2kayak (Jul 13, 2012)

Thanks for the all the info: just picked up a used Marin Fairfax "hybrid" with 700cc rims. Looking at getting a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35. Currently has platform pedals, may swap out with SPDs Will post picture when up and running.


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## Scott B (Dec 1, 2004)

Excellent choice, can't go wrong with n+1. I would add fenders to any winter ride to keep things cleaner. Run the biggest ones you can and mount them further from the tire than normal to minimize slush build up. 

I like platforms for the winter, they keep my feet warmer than riding stiff soled bike shoes. It all depends on temps really.


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## bike2kayak (Jul 13, 2012)

Finally got some snow in Denver! Here is my new winter commuter: Marin Fairfax with the Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35. Had to install new headset as "original" was shot. Note, rear rim is Mavic Open Pro and front is Sun CR18. Tires went on both rims with no problem, running at 50 psi. The ride on hardpacked snow + ice is fantastic. Took a couple miles to get over jitters running on glare ice, but eventually relaxed and could really cruise. On bare pavement sounds like rolling over rice krispies, on snow and ice their silent.


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## T0mi (Mar 2, 2011)

disc brake bike + rope around the tires is the way to go if you live in a place with only occasionnal snow. Works great.


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