# Rattle in SRAM Red lever?



## MarvinK

Anyone ever had a problem with their lever rattling? If I'm on a rough road my left lever rattles continuously unless I'm on the hoods. Poked around a little but haven't found a fix.


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## Kristatos

Did you check to make sure the bolt attaching the lever to the bar is snug? That's the first thing I'd check. It could be that when you apply pressure with your hand on the hood you stop it from moving.


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## hamsey

I got the same thing going on. Not the paddle. LBS has it now and is looking into it. Will let you know what they find.


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## MarvinK

Thanks hamsey... yea, we moved the paddle in to make sure and it didn't help here either.

Kristatos: Yea, it's tight. Seems like I'd be seeing other signs if that were the problem, too!


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## hamsey

Marvin,

Something else I found: Check two things before installing the lever blade: First, make sure the plastic washers are in place on both sides of the lever-where the pin goes through the lever blade.
Check the lever for washers and correct cable stop aligment

Second, check to make sure the beveled side of the brake cable stop is facing towards the outside of the shifter. If you install a brake cable with the stop rotated backwards, it will rattle.


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## robdamanii

The other thing I've noted is that if there is any slack at all in your brake cable, the lever will flop and wobble like hell.

I've now come to realize that this occurrence means it's time to re-lube my brake main pivots.


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## Kristatos

maybe someone played a joke on you and stuck a ball bearing in your handlebar. I am eager to hear the cause and fix on this one.


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## hamsey

Ok, got the bike back and I had a loose front derailleur. I read that you can get a vibration if the cables are loose. I twisted the FD so it was definitely loose. Taking it out over the weekend and will report back.

Norm


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## rubbersoul

Best way to fix it is to switch to dura ace


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## robdamanii

rubbersoul said:


> Best way to fix it is to switch to dura ace


Or stick with the group he likes and fix the cable tension/loose derailleur.

Maybe you should consider the fact that not everyone wants to use Shitmano... :idea:


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## rubbersoul

robdamanii said:


> Or stick with the group he likes and fix the cable tension/loose derailleur.
> 
> Maybe you should consider the fact that not everyone wants to use Shitmano... :idea:


.


Scram is ok too if you like to tinker and keep replacing busted parts.

I'm cool with my rock solid Ace


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## cxwrench

rubbersoul said:


> .
> 
> 
> Scram is ok too if you like to tinker and keep replacing busted parts.
> 
> I'm cool with my rock solid Ace


hope you don't work in a bike shop.


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## robdamanii

rubbersoul said:


> .
> 
> 
> Scram is ok too if you like to tinker and keep replacing busted parts.
> 
> I'm cool with my rock solid Ace


No tinkering necessary. Install and forget about it for the season.

Unlike Shitmano, which requires derailleur tweaks every ride...


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## rubbersoul

robdamanii said:


> No tinkering necessary. Install and forget about it for the season.
> 
> Unlike Shitmano, which requires derailleur tweaks every ride...


That's funny, both my previous 7700 series and current 79000 series are rock solid. Don't know why you have such an ascerbic attitude towards Shimano. Calling it shitmano is hilarious in its irony when you read about all the the posters talk about improved system with a swap of f. derailleur, chain, cassette etc from scram to shimano. I say just swap out the entire groupset. Now scram off angry Rob!  

p.s. before you freak out in a nasty reply, take it easy, I'm bugging you..chill if red works for you - enjoy.


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## robdamanii

rubbersoul said:


> That's funny, both my previous 7700 series and current 79000 series are rock solid. Don't know why you have such an ascerbic attitude towards Shimano. Calling it shitmano is hilarious in its irony when you read about all the the posters talk about improved system with a swap of f. derailleur, chain, cassette etc from scram to shimano. I say just swap out the entire groupset. Now scram off angry Rob!
> 
> p.s. before you freak out in a nasty reply, take it easy, I'm bugging you..chill if red works for you - enjoy.


I've had 3 sets of shitmano gear. 7700 levers quit working. 7800 levers quit working. 5600 levers quit working.

The shifting was always vague and twitchy. Constant cable adjustment, sensitivity to dirt and grit...junk. Absolute garbage.

Every SRAM group I've had has been bulletproof (with the exception of a single warranty issue, resolved in 4 days.) For cassettes and chains, I prefer Shitmano, simply because they have refined the shifting ramps so much that they really are the best out there. Besides those items I will never, EVER put another Shitmano part on my bike. The cranks have become a hideous malformation of anodized aluminum with chainrings that cost you a testicle. No thanks.

SRAM front derailleurs are more than capable performers, if people would actually learn the tricks of setting them up properly; they are quite different from the other component groups on the market. 

As for bugging me, you're not. You're just a moronic Shitmano homer whose only answer to any drivetrain question is "Get Shitmano, derp!"


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## MarvinK

rubbersoul: your trolling isn't welcome here. I've also seen cases where Shimano shifters have had a rattle between the two shift paddles. I was a Dura Ace user... not going back. Been plenty happy with SRAM for several years and on multiple bikes.


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## hamsey

Still got it. Not a rattle more of a vibration. Have not talked to my LBS yet. Thought the cables might be the cause but it is not. Back to the drawing board.


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## bandicoote

hamsey said:


> Still got it. Not a rattle more of a vibration. Have not talked to my LBS yet. Thought the cables might be the cause but it is not. Back to the drawing board.


I have had this for a few weeks with a new sram force left lever. Finally got around to having a good look at it, and it is caused on mine by the swivel bolt that holds the end of the brake cable. There was some slack and sideways movement in this, and this allowed a washer on the outer side (but inside the carbon lever) to rattle about. That was what was causing the sort of vibration/rattle when I was not on the hoods.

I fixed the problem by replacing the washer with a slightly fatter one, so there was no more sideways play. To do this, I removed the lever from the bike, pushed the paddle all the way in (towards what would be the centre of the bike) which allowed the brake lever to be pulled right down to the base of the unit and so reveal the top of the brake and the swivel bolt. A bit of cloth between the paddle pivot and the body of the brake lever will protect the lever, and then you can put a strong rubber band around the brake lever and the body to keep it there.

Next remove the circlip on the inner side (towards what would be the centre of the bike) of the pivot bolt (might just look like a washer until you rotate it) by pressing something like two small screw drivers onto the two ends, taking care where you do it in case it drops onto the floor. Most likely will drop into the lever itself, just shake out afterwards. Then the pivot bolt can easily be removed.

The original washer was about .95mm, and I used a small spring washer, which I flattened to remove the "spring" from it, and that worked beautifully. It was about 1.4mm if you have a vernier caliper. Another option that I considered and I think would work just as well was to glue the offending washer to the wall of the carbon brake lever, so that it couldn't rattle.

Hope this helps some others solve such an annoying problem.


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## hamsey

Bandi,

Thanks for the info. I will pass it along to my LBS. Dropping off the bike towards the end of the week to have the shifter replaced. Will keep this in mind if the problem rears it ugly head again. I did not have any vibration with my force shifters.

Anyone know why only the left shifter?

Regards, Norm


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## hamsey

Had my shifter replaced under warranty and the vibration if gone.


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## ssing20

bandicoote said:


> I have had this for a few weeks with a new sram force left lever. Finally got around to having a good look at it, and it is caused on mine by the swivel bolt that holds the end of the brake cable. There was some slack and sideways movement in this, and this allowed a washer on the outer side (but inside the carbon lever) to rattle about. That was what was causing the sort of vibration/rattle when I was not on the hoods.


My 2011 Rival right shifter rattled in the same spot. I just injected some grease into the bolt/washer area and it quieted down.


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## bandicoote

Mine has been perfect since my fix posted above. Hope the grease holds for you. I tried it but didn't work for me.


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## acevh3

*fixed shifter rattle (inadvertently)*

Got a 2011 Cannondale with SRAM Red about 6 weeks ago. Noticed the rattle on my first test ride, bought it anyway. Finally got around to replacing the white hoods and bar tape with black yesterday; while doing that, did the lever reach adjustment to bring them in closer to the bars. Immediately noticed that the rattle was gone. Not just the one loud rattle that was so noticeable, but the ride is totally silent now. Much nicer.


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