# rear rack and fenders



## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

I use a seat collar like that one and it works great.

Myself, I would use P clamps at least for the front fenders, and maybe even for both the rear fenders and rack. You could mount both the rear fenders and rack onto the same P clamp as long as it wasn't too heavy. The QR mounted hardware looks great, but it might be a hassle if/when you remove the wheel. I remove my front wheel a lot and therefore wouldn't want to have to fiddle with it for the front. For the rear, it would probably be great though.

Either way at the rear, you should be able to mount the rear rack and fenders on the same bolt (either using a P clamp or the Tubus adapter set), as long as you're not carrying a huge weight. My bike has a single eyelet on the back dropout (each side) and I mount fender and rack on it.

As for the rear fenders, "conventional" rear fenders usually have a clip that attaches to a little crossbar that goes between the chain stays up near the seat tube. (called chainstay bridge). If you're bike has one, you're golden. If not, and you want to use the type of fenders that uses that, there's ways to work around it with zip ties and other ways I've seen that use P clamps to hold an add-on sort of thing that mimics the bridge.... but am not personally familiar with them. The rear fender also attaches to the bolt that holds a caliper brake or such. My seat stays don't have a bridge ("wishbone" type), but I just easily attached it there w/ zip ties.

All that said, there's fenders which don't need to be mounted that way at all and I guess they work pretty well. Hopefully someone will give specific pointers.


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## tuffguy1500 (Jul 17, 2008)

There's always the Axiom Streamliner dlx. I used it for a long time, do a search for it and you'll see some other opinions on it. It worked fine, but couldn't handle a load of college texts and eventually sagged out on me like crazy causing fender rub. My situation is not the norm, and most folks seemed to like it a lot.

For fenders Try the Cruds.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I am trying to outfit my cyclocross bike with a rack and then fenders later.. it doesn't have anything on the frame. I only plan to hold the lunch box and a bit more.
so far I found these 2 parts which seems to be good quality and will allow me to start installing a rack.

http://www.probikekit.com/us/luggag...ptor-set-for-quick-release-axle-mounting.html

http://www.probikekit.com/us/luggag...ers-luggage/m-part-rack-mount-seat-clamp.html

Can you suggest a rack to use with it.. I am completely clueless about where to start with the rear fenders though. I think I could also add P clips as needed.
Tires are 32mm with cantilever brakes

Thanks


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## MoreCowbell82 (Jan 14, 2011)

For just a lunchbox, why not get a rack that attached to the seatpost? Check out the beam racks from Topeak - I've used one off and on for years, and love it. Bontrager also makes one that is pretty reasonable, but the Topeak racks are superb.

Then, grab a set of Planet Bike fenders...


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## MoreCowbell82 (Jan 14, 2011)




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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

PoorCyclist said:


> I looked into the seatpost ones, but I was going to get the tubus skewer anyway for the fenders, so I wanted to try to install a regular rack.


I've been using a seatpost type rack for a couple of commuting seasons before just recently buying one of the seatpost collars mentioned in the OP and switching to a regular bolt on rack.

Bolt on rack's advantages as I see it so far: less rattling against the fender stays, and won't move from side to side (off center in other words) when handled/bumped etc. I definitely prefer the bolt on kind for more-or-less permanent use ..... but the clamp on kind was very convenient. I leave it in the garage to put on whatever bike in the family needs a rack for the day.

Oh, another disadvantage of the clamp on type which didn't affect the frames I was using it on, but does affect some other smaller MTB (very short seat tube) frames in my family: The rack's seat post clamp can tend to creep downward. I was never able to stop that. If the top of your seat tube/seat post collar is tall enough so that results in a satisfactory position for the rack, no problem. But if the seat tube is very short, the rack can creep down even to the point of resting on the fender or tire. Maybe someone else has a way to stop this, but I didn't.

If I were looking for a long term rack, I'd go with the aftermarket seat collar and P clamps or the skewer-mounted devides mentioned in the OP, rather than the seat post clamp type. If I just needed it occasionally, and preferred not to have it at other times, I'd use the clamp on, no doubt.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I looked into the seatpost ones, but I was going to get the tubus skewer anyway for the fenders, so I wanted to try to install a regular rack.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

acg said:


> I eventually settled on a Bontrager BackRack Lightweight:
> http://www.bontrager.com/model/08214
> 
> It has a narrow profile which fits well with my road bike. The top horizontal brackets come with P-clamps for mounting to the seat stays or mounting to bosses (if you bike has one). It also comes with a bracket which connects to a brake mounting bolt for the top horizontal support. It has a similar quick release axle mounting set-up as the Tubus desgin which you are considering. However, the Bontrager (including the quick release attachment costs $70). A Tubus Fly rack costs roughly $120 - $140 plus another $30 for the quiick release axle mounting accessory.
> ...


I really like this one and I am going to order it..
can you confirm the 2 arms can be rotated so they point upwards to attach to a special seatpost clamp?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I have another question.. can I get away without fenders and only installing a rack? some of the racks have a flat top and would block most of the water, plus you can also get extension to cover the back of the wheel further. The bag would get wet I guess, and no protection to the front of the wheel.


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## acg (Feb 13, 2011)

I have done an insane amount of research on racks to find the best set-up for my bikes and fenders. Here is my opinion...

!) CRUD Roadracer MK2 Road Fenders:
The Crud will not work if you have tire sizes greater than 25 mm. I have it on my road bike and clearance is tight even with my 23mm tires

2) Axiom Streamliner DKX
Great rack if you do not intend to ahul anything too heavy with it. I read from other reviews that the top bracket which holds connect the rack to the brake mounting bolt is a weak link. It has a tendency to bend/buckle under heavy loads and cause the rack to drop down into the rear wheels

3) Seatpost Mounted Rack
I suggest staying away from those if you are thinking of expanding usage to include panniers in the future.

I eventually settled on a Bontrager BackRack Lightweight:
http://www.bontrager.com/model/08214

It has a narrow profile which fits well with my road bike. The top horizontal brackets come with P-clamps for mounting to the seat stays or mounting to bosses (if you bike has one). It also comes with a bracket which connects to a brake mounting bolt for the top horizontal support. It has a similar quick release axle mounting set-up as the Tubus desgin which you are considering. However, the Bontrager (including the quick release attachment costs $70). A Tubus Fly rack costs roughly $120 - $140 plus another $30 for the quiick release axle mounting accessory.

Good luck in your search for rack nirvana!


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

For light touring I have used the Topeak beam rack (that MoreCowbell posted the pic for) & their compatible panniers. This together with RaceBlades lets you switch to a decent touring setup pretty quickly--and no screws, washers clamps to fuss with and scratch your paint or crush your tubes. 

I wouldn't like to do fully loaded touring with it--but I was carrying raingear, snacks, backup gear and spares, with a small HB bag to balance. 

Worked great.


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## acg (Feb 13, 2011)

PoorCyclist said:


> I really like this one and I am going to order it..
> can you confirm the 2 arms can be rotated so they point upwards to attach to a special seatpost clamp?


Yes, the rods will allow angular and length adjustments. They can also be rotated to point in an upwards direction towards the seatpost clamp.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I ordered from the Trek store..
acg, what kind of trunk bag are you using on it?


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## acg (Feb 13, 2011)

PoorCyclist said:


> I ordered from the Trek store..
> acg, what kind of trunk bag are you using on it?


I use panniers instead of a trunk bag. Here is what I have depending on the my daily commuting needs....

Axiom Laptop Pannier:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Transition-Laptop-Pannier/dp/B001C47BAA

Nashbar Garment Pannier:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_166278_-1___

Ortlieb Backroller Panniers:
http://www.ortliebusa.com/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=31&cid=2

All these work well with the Bontrager rack which I recommended in an earlier post.


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## kjdhawkhill (Jan 29, 2011)

If you want to keep the road spray off your own rear and back, yes, you'll be fine. I would suggest using a trunk bag designed to be 100% waterproof. Not one that is designed to use a rain cover.

I have used this http://www.rei.com/product/800389/seattle-sports-xud-waterproof-rackbag-duffel-special-buy on a clamp/seat post rack and my backside stayed clean and dry. My calves were still filthy as sin from 6-8 miles of soggy gravel, but my shirt stayed clean.

I wouldn't use two panniers and a trunk bag on any seat post mounted rack. It's too tempting and easy to overload the mount. Really, I wouldn't trust two panniers on a seat post rack, even though some are designed for panniers.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

For anyone interested in a seatpost mounted rack for use with panniers, they do exist:
http://www.headlandbike.com/racks/utilpanier/utilpanier.htm


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## tuffguy1500 (Jul 17, 2008)

I just felt like updating this- the new Axiom Streamliner DLX is very very different than the one I purchased a few years ago. They now weld the two downtubes together, where before they were held together by individual screws attached to the axle mounting bar. This alone will prevent any sagging that I complained about in previous posts. I almost want to go out and get the new one to replace my ghetto rigged version!


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Bill2 said:


> For anyone interested in a seatpost mounted rack for use with panniers, they do exist:
> http://www.headlandbike.com/racks/utilpanier/utilpanier.htm


In theory. I'm not sure that a usable one exists for traditional geometry road bikes with a fistful of seat post.

None of the four I tried were usable. Topeak (frames weren't strong enough to keep one 15 pound pannier out of my spokes), Axiom (clamp rubbed on my thighs badly enough I wouldn't want to ride one block), Transit (clamp rubbed on my thighs), and Delta Post porter (clamp rubbed on my thighs).

I gave up and switched to p-clamps intending to get a (titanium) frame builder to add eyelets some time but don't want to leave my bike for a week. I got about 2000 miles out of the last set before one broke. A skewer mount would be much more prudent.

Things probably work better on mountain bikes and compact frames with a much lower seat post to tube junction.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I found a bolt behind the BB in the wheel well, that should be useful for fenders later. All I would need is a couple P-clips.. but it's summer and I am not thinking about fenders too much..
I got the rack from Trek online store and installed it. I also got this clamp to add eyelet instead of ordering the one in UK.

http://www.amazon.com/Electra-Seatpost-Clamp-Mount-31-8mm/dp/B0030IJZN2/

My seatpost is 31.6mm and the clamp says 31.8, I had no idea this means the I.D. is 31.8.. 
I assumed it would work on frame that uses a 31.8 seatpost. Well it would slip on the bare seatpost but not on the frame which is thicker. So I decied to add this clamp on my seatpost instead of on the frame, and I get to keep my nicer seatpost clamp I guess. 
There is a lip on top of the clamp that would stop this plan, after I carefully use a die grinder to remove the lip all around, it was ready to use.

My only gripe is that the rack is dished to one side, it's not centered real nice. It is all aluminum and welded nicely but guess the geometry is not real precise. Are racks usually like this or should I exchange it?


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

No braze-ons? Go down to your friendly neighborhood hardware store and get yourself something similar to this: pipe clamp

Measure your seatstays at the top and bottom and get their diameter. Get the appropriate sized pipe/hose clamp and there you go.


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## acg (Feb 13, 2011)

PoorCyclist said:


> My only gripe is that the rack is dished to one side, it's not centered real nice. It is all aluminum and welded nicely but guess the geometry is not real precise. Are racks usually like this or should I exchange it?


My Bontrager rack is centered nicely when I installed it out of the box.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I loosened the 4bolts near the skewer and reinstalled. The rack is centered now
I like this solution alot


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