# Flight Deck wireless speed sensor trouble



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

I installed a brand new Flight Deck SM-SC70 wireless system on my road bike yesterday and I'm having some trouble getting the wireless speed sensor to read the magnet. Here is a list of everything I have done up to this point to try and get it to work.

1) Read through the extensive troubleshooting steps provided by Shimano in the installation manual - that took 2 seconds. 
2) Replaced the brand new battery in the sensor with another brand new battery. 
3) Replaced the brand new battery in the computer with yet another brand new battery.
4) Installed a different spoke magnet.
5) Performed a master reset of the computer and reentered all my data again.
6) Pulled the left brake lever actuator button off and inspected the sensor tape with nothing out of the ordinary that I can tell.
7) Skimmed through just about every single web hit I could find that came up under "Shimano Flight Deck speed sensor troubleshooting" and it seems nobody has had this problem for many years. 

Now, yes, it did work briefly when I first hooked up the system as I spun the wheel while on the stand in order to get the "gee whiz - it works!" out of my system. I also had it briefly work after shifting from the small to the large chainring and back again as noted by another users post in step 7. The speed registered for a brief moment when I spun the wheel, but when I walked the bike outside to go for a test ride - it quit. 

I am also familiar with how the left button starts and stops the system and I have clicked through it and every other option on the right many times while spinning the wheel with no luck. 

So - I'm out of ideas - anybody else have any other suggestions?

Thanks!


----------



## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

*headlights close by?*



camnowell said:


> I installed a brand new Flight Deck SM-SC70 wireless system on my road bike yesterday and I'm having some trouble getting the wireless speed sensor to read the magnet. Here is a list of everything I have done up to this point to try and get it to work.
> 
> 1) Read through the extensive troubleshooting steps provided by Shimano in the installation manual - that took 2 seconds.
> 2) Replaced the brand new battery in the sensor with another brand new battery.
> ...


Are you doing your tests with a head light turned on that may be mounted right next to the computer? LED headlights interfere with the wireless. I had to move my light about an inch away, then it worked. Also don't mount the sensor too close to the center of the front hub. If you do, the unit may not have enough time to reset itself after each click.
Also a a little tip, not help with your problem, if (once you get this working) you find yourself inadvertently turning this off in the middle of a ride; slip an extra piece of handle bar tape over the left button (underneath the rubber hood). This will make it much harder to press the "on" button, but you only want to do that at the start and end of the ride. Leave the right (function) button alone.


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

*no headlight*

Martin - Thanks for the tips, but I have nothing that could possibly interfere electrical wise. I added a picture of the setup to help out with the troubleshooting. 

The gear indicators work flawlessly and the buttons on either side work just as advertised - I have pretty much narrowed it down to the sensor itself causing the trouble. 

I originally had the sensor mounted about halfway down the fork and have since moved it as far up as possible. I have been using a Cateye wireless setup on my mountain bike with zero issues, so I'm a bit perplexed at this one. I'm down to thinking the sensor is defective, but I'm not giving up just yet.

Also the second picture doesn't quite show the distance correctly, but the sensor is much less than the 5mm limit. 

<a href="https://s756.photobucket.com/albums/xx205/camnowell/?action=view&current=BicyclePics005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx205/camnowell/BicyclePics005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="https://s756.photobucket.com/albums/xx205/camnowell/?action=view&current=BicyclePics007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx205/camnowell/BicyclePics007.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


----------



## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

*same setup*

That's almost exactly how mine is set up too, except I am not as close to the spokes. you say you tried it further down towards the hub also?. My magnet is maybe a 1/16th inch, pretty close. That's probably within the 5mm limit. Also flip the bike upside down (or lift the front wheel) and spin the wheel. You should be able to hear the sensor click as the magnet passes the sensor. It's pretty noticeable once you know what to listen for. If you don't hear that take a hammer to it (just kidding) but you might be right in that it's the sensor. Try a different magnet too if you can. Oh, I got to ask, swap batteries or test the battery. I actually did get a bad (brand new) battery once. It was with a different piece of equipment, but still, I always like to eliminate the simple things.


camnowell said:


> Martin - Thanks for the tips, but I have nothing that could possibly interfere electrical wise. I added a picture of the setup to help out with the troubleshooting.
> 
> The gear indicators work flawlessly and the buttons on either side work just as advertised - I have pretty much narrowed it down to the sensor itself causing the trouble.
> 
> ...


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

Martin, your on to something regarding the sensor clicking. I forgot how it does that when the magnet passes by - I DO NOT get the clicking sound. I have tried a new battery and another magnet, but I might just try the hammer or maybe just one more battery before I send it back. 

Thanks!


----------



## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

A battery is not required fro the sensor to "click". The click is a result of the magnet activating a switch. If the sensor is not clicking, then the magent is not passing by close enough to the switch. Usually the magnet has to pass within a 1/4" of the sensor, and the sensor should have a mark where the switch is located. If in doubt, remove the magnet, and move it around the sensor until you hear the click.

If you hear the clicking, but the computer is not registering anything, then the sensor is too far away from the computer, or the sensor battery is dead.


----------



## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

*small hammer*

OK, no clicking sound, Look inside where the battery goes to make sure that the battery contacts are present and look good. Inside the cap you will have a spring and a little tab of metal that touches the side of the battery. if that is not touching, it would be the same as no battery.Well while I was joking about the hammer, it's was a joke based in some truth. The clicking is caused by the magnet bringing 2 parts together that are more than likely spring loaded, so they will spread apart when the magnet passes. I sure wouldn't try a hammer to it, but when you are to the point of returning it, I might rap it smartly on a table top to see if something was stuck. You might also call Shimano to see if you can get an RMA if it's new, or go back to where you bought it from if that's an option. if you bought it from an LBS they might have a Shimano number for you to call. Actually even if you didn't they just might be the authorized dealer for Shimano repair anyway or at least have a number to call.


camnowell said:


> Martin, your on to something regarding the sensor clicking. I forgot how it does that when the magnet passes by - I DO NOT get the clicking sound. I have tried a new battery and another magnet, but I might just try the hammer or maybe just one more battery before I send it back.
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

Okay - 3rd battery installed - no joy. However, I was able to verify the clicking sound, albeit extremely faint. 

RHankey - As you can see from the pictures, I can't get the sensor much closer to the computer. I can only assume at this point the sensor has got to be defective. I'll call Shimano on Monday to see what they have to say. 

Thanks guys for the help.


----------



## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

camnowell said:


> Okay - 3rd battery installed - no joy. However, I was able to verify the clicking sound, albeit extremely faint.
> 
> RHankey - As you can see from the pictures, I can't get the sensor much closer to the computer. I can only assume at this point the sensor has got to be defective. I'll call Shimano on Monday to see what they have to say.
> 
> Thanks guys for the help.


The sensor is not close enough to the magnet. I normally mount the sensor and magnet close the the hub for a few reasons. It makes it easy to get the sensor close to the magnet. With the magnet close to the hub, it affects the balance of the wheel the least (I mount it opposite the valve stem). And if the wheel were to go out of true, the sensor is less likely to get sucked into the spokes.


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

martinrjensen said:


> OK, no clicking sound, Look inside where the battery goes to make sure that the battery contacts are present and look good. Inside the cap you will have a spring and a little tab of metal that touches the side of the battery. if that is not touching, it would be the same as no battery.Well while I was joking about the hammer, it's was a joke based in some truth. The clicking is caused by the magnet bringing 2 parts together that are more than likely spring loaded, so they will spread apart when the magnet passes. I sure wouldn't try a hammer to it, but when you are to the point of returning it, I might rap it smartly on a table top to see if something was stuck. You might also call Shimano to see if you can get an RMA if it's new, or go back to where you bought it from if that's an option. if you bought it from an LBS they might have a Shimano number for you to call. Actually even if you didn't they just might be the authorized dealer for Shimano repair anyway or at least have a number to call.


After realizing just how faint the clicking sound is (I had to go to my quiet happy place and put the sensor in my ear while running the magnet across it in order to hear the relay) it may have worked all along - nevertheless, the signal is still not reaching the computer. I have checked inside the battery compartment and tinkered with the contacts and "tapped" it on the table as well - still no joy. 

I bought it online from Jenson - so I still have that option of getting it exchanged - maybe for my old Cateye!


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

RHankey said:


> The sensor is not close enough to the magnet. I normally mount the sensor and magnet close the the hub for a few reasons. It makes it easy to get the sensor close to the magnet. With the magnet close to the hub, it affects the balance of the wheel the least (I mount it opposite the valve stem). And if the wheel were to go out of true, the sensor is less likely to get sucked into the spokes.



The picture doesn't do it justice - but, believe me, I have had the magnet close enough to the sensor to tap it on every round. I have also adjusted the magnet up and down the full length of the sensor to try and get the best signal. I tried moving the sensor closer to the hub, but the piss-poor design of the strap doesn't allow it to get tight enough as the fork tapers down.


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

Just in case anyone is following this thread and is sitting on the edge of their seats waiting for the "fix." I talked to Shimano this afternoon and they've asked me to send the sensor back to them for service. So, off in the mail in went. For Martin and RHankey, thanks a bunch for helping me try and get this thing to work. I really appreciate all your input. I was hoping it would be something simple that I was just overlooking - it wouldn't have been the first time.


----------



## bprse99 (Nov 15, 2009)

Have you received your sensor back from Shimano and does it now pick up your speed? I just installed the Flight Deck and have the same problem. When I finished inputting all the data and plugged it in I was able to correctly see the gear selections and changes but no speed. No the head unit is alseep and simply won't wake up even if I change gears. Frustrating. I too bought mine from Jenson. Wonder if there is an issue there. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

There is definitely still an issue. A tech from Shimano called me on Monday to tell me everything was working perfectly on his bench - no surprise there. He sent it back to me with the bonus of another head unit - the one that was working with the sensor on his bench. I got it back on Friday and - surprise - still doesn't work. Neither one of the head units will pick up the signal. I called him back and he is just as "baffled" as I am. I think we both agree that something in the wiring or possibly the "brifters" is causing some sort of interference. He is going to call me back on Monday after he does some more research on his end. Luckily I've got a decent amount of patience - for now. If we don't get it working on Monday, however, back to Jenson it goes and a Cateye Strada Double Wireless will happily takes its place. 

I'll keep you posted. . .


----------



## bprse99 (Nov 15, 2009)

Any news from Shimano? The suspense is killing me. I'm in the same boat, if this can't be resolved it's back to Jenson for a Cateye double or triple.

Bob


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

Bob - I spoke with the tech at Shimano again yesterday. We have pretty much narrowed it down to some sort of disconnect in the "brifters" - well, there is nothing left to replace. . . He is going to try and get me a replacement set of DA brifters and I'm currently waiting on the email to confirm this. 

I am actually super pleased with Shimano and the tech's determination to get this fixed. Normally I would have given up long ago, but for what ever reason, I want to figure out what the problem is. I'll keep you posted.


----------



## camnowell (Oct 12, 2009)

*Problem Solved!!*

For all those who have been closely following this widely entertaining thread. . . my Shimano Flight Deck issues have been solved. It appears the wireless mount for the computer was defective and somehow causing interference in the signal. A replacement shipped out by Shimano started working immediately when I brought it within a few feet of the bike with the front wheel spinning. 

The solution seems so simple, but I just really had a hard time believing that the mount would be causing the problem. Also, I really didn't want to have to rewrap the bars again after replacing the mount - but, the problem is fixed. Off to go ride. . .


----------

