# How to choose cycling shoes for long distance \ Randoneering ?



## velofred (May 26, 2009)

Hi, all, I am sure that shoes have been discussed, but I was not able to locate anything that would clearly help me to answer my question. First of all I am still new to cycling and there is a lot to explore. One of the toughest topics is cycling shoes. I find it one of the hardest components to buy. Here are the problem.

1. defining a size you need, somehow shoes sizes are all wrong and do not match regular shoes sizes
2. Decide what shoes to buy
3. what pedals to buy 
4. how to properly fit the shoes. 

Here is my situation. I currently have specialized mountain shoes that I bought with recommendation at LBS











Also I have bought bebops pedals that friend of mine recommended after I complained about knee problem riding some cheap spd pedals. https://www.beboppedals.com/










All that setup is not that bad, but after 80 miles my feet hurt really bad and I feel that pain in my pedal spots on my feet even after a week of 130 miles ride. Needles to say, that I was able to complete that ride only with a couple of Advils.


I was trying to od some research, but I am completely lost which shoes and \or pedals to buy. I would not say that money is an issue here, but trying every possible pair is expensive. I also read some recommendations here and there, but all of them general and do not help me to choose what I need. I think I would want something that I can walk in and something that does not give me that pain in my foot. tried searching for touring shoes, but did not find much that would be clearly defined as touring shoes. 

Did anyone go through the same puzzle? Could you share your experince?

Thank you.


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## PdxMark (Feb 3, 2004)

Randonneuring is a big way to get into cycling. Anyway, I have to wonder whether the foot problem is really equipment-based versus fit-based or technique-based. I'm not familiar with Bepop pedals, but I suspect a reaonably stiff shoe, like the ones you have pictured, shouldn't be transmitting much localized pedal pressure to the foot. As a first set of equipment, there could just as well be issues with your bike fit, saddle height, shoe fit, etc.

Before getting new stuff I'd make certain that there are no hot spots inside each shoe, with insoles out of place or something like that. I'd also check the saddle height (with respect to knee bend) and the degree to which your foot is, or isn't, flexing through a pedal stroke. I'd check cleat positioning on the shoe - possibly being moved forward or backward. I might even check arch support in the shoe.

If all else fails, I happily used Speedplay Frogs and Sidi MTB shoes during my brevet days... but I bet you'll improve things by fiddling with those other factors first.


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## velofred (May 26, 2009)

Mark, thank you for reply. Just to give some info.

1. my bicycle was bought in 2009 from an LBS and they clammed to be Serrota fitting certified. It is very comfortable and the only improvement I made to their fitting is raising my handlebar, making my position more upright. Saddle is also adjusted to very comfortable position , so i would assume bike is not a problem

2. Bebops, primary reason to buy these was floating. I did not have that many cleats, but I like these even though they give a lot of freedom. they are small and I suspect a problem here, since I read some recommendations to get pedals with platforms, not sure if it makes difference indeed. As for fitting, I also commute and my commuter has flat wide touring pedals without any straps and I tried to fit my long distance pedals the same way. I had them far back and now I moved them to more natural position as I would have it on my commuter.

3. Shoes. My experienced randonneuring friend says that sole might be too soft on those and that is why I feel pedals in my feet. Also he says i should try shoes with carbon sole, but it is his guess. He has two pairs of road shoes, which hard to walk in.


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## PdxMark (Feb 3, 2004)

I'd be inclined to trust the fitting, in that case. I'd then first try shifting each cleat a bit - forward or backwards - to see what that does to the feel.


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## loudog (Jul 22, 2008)

try a pedal with a larger platform.


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## velofred (May 26, 2009)

loudog said:


> try a pedal with a larger platform.


Any particular recommendations? Brand? Thank you.


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## Scott B (Dec 1, 2004)

You might consider that it isn't a function of pedals or shoes, but of fit. Clipless pedels exert different forces on the legs then platforms. Perhaps go and have a fitter do specific work on getting pedels set up. I've seen fitters create shims, wedges and a variety of other things to work on pedal interface.

I just switched from Eggbeaters to Shimano XT's. The XT's have a much larger platform then an Eggbeater. It seems to be helping some issues I'd had with toe numbness. That said, the spds have less float so I'm still working on perfect cleat position.

I really like Sidi MTB shoes, they aren't cheap, but they seem good for long rides. If they fit and feel good they might be worth a go. But before more gear I'd have a pro take another look.


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## robwh9 (Sep 2, 2004)

I now use Sidi Dominator MTB shoes and Time ATAC pedals on all my road and mountain bikes. I can't tell any difference between my Sidi road and mtb shoes while riding. I suspect they're the same shoe but one has tread and the other doesn't. I've never had any foot problems with them, even after 600 K straight. For weekend bike tours I don't even bring a second pair of shoes.


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## dfltroll (Nov 27, 2006)

I can't see using those pedals for brevets. They may have a lot of float but he platform is too small. I'd be worried about developing severe hotspots on my feet.

I finished a 600k brevet this weekend, my second. I used the same shoes and pedals both times--Sidi Dominators (wide) and Shimano PD-A520s. Both have worked well. The shoes allow some room for feet swelling and the pedals have a large platform. Still, I did develop hot spots on both feet about 200 miles into the ride. It was very very hot out and I think that may have played a role but I'm not sure. At the end of the ride both feet were a little numb on the bottom and remained so for about 48hrs. Not good but its' going away and just one of the consequences of this kind of riding. I guess. I also had some numbness in my fingertips. I'll hopefully do one more 300k this year and multiple centuries but nothing bigger until next year when I'm planning on doing the Cascade 1200k. 

Hope that helps. Vintage Bicycle Quarterly is a good resource for randonneuring info along with various message boards and the RUSA website.

Good luck.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

I see that every suggestion is for cleats and clipless pedals. I know that LD cyclists use quite a variety of equipment, but would it be fair to say that pretty much nobody uses quill or platform pedals for those events? Do most of you mount your cleats directly under the ball of your foot?

Also, PDX mentioned possible technique issues. What sort of technique no-nos would cause foot pain?


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## Ab24029 (Feb 20, 2006)

Why don't you try using your existing Specialized shoe with a regular wide platform pedal with a strap or without to see how it would feel. You seem to be happy commuting on flat pedals.
Long distance cycling is trying and seeing what works for YOU. Many people would recommend what works for them, does not mean it will work for YOU.I could not ride SPD pedals, because of limited float (3-4 deg.) Bebops have 20 deg. of float-no knee issues, I just did not like the way they engage and release. last summer I switched to eggbeaters and they seem fine so far. Eggbeaters are not an option for you-very small platform. I really like Look Keo pedals I have on my road bike, large platform, plenty of float with red cleats, positive clicks engaging and releasing, very light, not hot sport. The only problem is that it is hard to walk in them. Actually it is also a plus- let you spend less time at the controls and more on a bike


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## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

Plenty of folks use toe clips and straps. Or plain old platform pedals (which I like, except in the rain).


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

To be honest, since the advent of clipless pedals the only ones I have experience with are Looks. I was riding long before that using cleats, clips & straps. The single thing I've found that made any significant difference in sole comfort has been shoes. I'd been using carbon soled shoes for years. I needed a new pair a couple of years ago, so I bought a pair of Sidi Geniuses on sale. They didn't have carbon soles but I thought, "What the hell. Sidi is a great brand, the lack of a carbon sole won't matter."

It mattered - in a very important way. 

From the very 1st day, I could feel the pedal with the sole of my foot on any ride longer than 30-40 miles, and was truly in pain around 60+. I bit the bullet and bought a new pair of the shoes I'd been wearing. Bada-boom Bada-bing. Problem solved.


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## stlutz (Jan 6, 2005)

FWIW, Andy Pruitt suggests as a first resort to move the cleats back about 2mm and lowering the saddle the same amount.


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## Scot_Gore (Jan 25, 2002)

As someone mentioned above, I only have recommendations for the things that have worked for me and those things may not work for you, so I'll just pass on those. 

The only suggestion I would make is in you search, try a cleat with a 3 or 4 hole connection to see if it makes a difference. Don't limit yourself to 2 hole cleats. You will likely give up some walkability with one of these, but if it eliminates or reduces your discomfort I would pay that price.

Good luck. 
Scot


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## jd3 (Oct 8, 2004)

Some new thoughts on cleat position for long distance riding

http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=/tech/2009/reviews/biomac_bio-mxc2shoes09


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