# Riding in the drops



## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

I just can't seem to get comfy while doing it, wrist angle , trying to get to the levers, etc etc. most of my rides are spent with my hands on the lever mounts or just behind them. What am I missing out on and any tuning tips.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

Every year that goes by makes it a bit harder for me to do. It is more aerodynamic, so if you care about speed, you might be missing out. Otherwise, who cares, as long as you can brake effectively from above. You can raise the stem/bars up by a spacer, but I think that just rearranges the problem.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Terrasmak said:


> I just can't seem to get comfy while doing it, wrist angle , trying to get to the levers, etc etc. most of my rides are spent with my hands on the lever mounts or just behind them.
> What am I missing out on and any tuning tips.


Generally speaking...
Hoods = the most common hand position for general riding/ cruising. Provides easy access to most integrated shifters. Also good for climbing out of the saddle.

Bends = same general use as hoods, with less accessibility to shifters.

Bar Tops = Good for climbing while remaining seated or cruising. Requires moving your hands for shifting and braking and (FWIW) is the most upright riding position.

Drops = Best aero position and IMO offers the best balance. Good for intervals/ sprints, headwinds and some crosswind situations, but I use them for cruising - alternating between drops, bends and hoods. The drops are also the preferred position for fast descents. IMO/E rider control is superior, and leverage/ modulation for braking is somewhat better.

Ideally, your bike is sized/ fitted to you and fitted with bars that allow you to comfortably ride in all hand positions. IMO/E many cyclists almost never leave the hoods or seldom use the drops. Reasons for this could be lack of comfort or inflexibility - both related back to incorrect fit (primarily saddle to bar drop) for a given cyclist.

Speaking of which, fit should allow a rider to avail themselves of all hand positions, with tweaks to fit accounting for preferred positions. As an example, if a cyclist has the right bars at the right height, they'll be comfortable riding on the hoods, tops, bends, drops as conditions dictate.

Additionally, having the shifters correctly positioned on the bar makes a difference in the level of comfort while riding the hoods, as well as the ability to brake and shift comfortably from them.


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## Mandeville (Oct 18, 2014)

What PJ352 said. Plus-- If you are physically uncomfortable using the drops it's probably a fit and or a flexibility issue.


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

In my case, it is a fat and inflexibility issue.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

I live I a very windy area I don't know how I could get around with out the drops. If it is angle problem try repositioning the bars. If your bike fits you should be able to have a straight wrist and bent elbows. If your wrist is flexing reposition until you can hold the drops with a straight wrist. Also make sure your seat is right so you have most of your weight there and on the pedals not your hands. The more you use them the better your core will get at holding you up. You can help the core strength along with numerous off the bike exercises like planks and similar. It may be fit related though have you been professionally fitted or at least a well studied personal fitting?


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Never been professionally fitted, been thinking about it. I wanted to get my pedals first, still using MTB clipless. 

Also so been thinking about dropping 10mm out of stem length. My bike is a 58cm Trek 2.1 , the 56 was a hair small, the 58 feels just a hair long. I'm 6'1 with a 34.5 inch inseam (all legs ) and also have pretty long arms. 

Torso, really not that flexable. Especially after I broke my back 8 years ago.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

As others have noted, personal flexibility is a limitation. With that taken into account it then becomes a matter of fitting to you. 

My complete WAG is that your current "fit" (or setup) has you positioned in a way that you are carrying too much of your upper body weight on your arms and hands, and as you move from bar tops to hoods to drops that just increases and becomes increasingly uncomfortable. If that's accurate (it's just a guess) then the solution is a proper fitting that fits the bike to you with your physical needs and limitations, rather than trying to force you into some prescribed geometry derived by looking at other riders, who for road bikes are often racers.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Terrasmak said:


> I just can't seem to get comfy while doing it, wrist angle , trying to get to the levers, etc etc. most of my rides are spent with my hands on the lever mounts *or just behind them*. What am I missing out on and any tuning tips.


Re: the part in bold-That's a good indicator your stem is too long.

The rest of the comfort issue is probably due to the bars being too low and/or long. Also, flexibility issues or too much girth (fat) around the middle will make it difficult to lean over to reach the bars. If you're not willing to experiment or pick up any of the books which discuss bike fit, then try having a fitting done at a local shop to address your issues.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

and learn to bend at the waist not by arching the back


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

atpjunkie said:


> and learn to bend at the waist not by arching the back


How far anyone can rotate their pelvis is individual and a physical limitation. Once that is reached, the only option to go lower, as down in the drops, is spinal flexion. The degree to which pelvic rotation vs. spinal flexion determines a riders abilities is what Steve Hogg refers to as "effective torso length".


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## Texas Z (Mar 21, 2015)

I can't ride in the drops either. I have 4 screws in my lower back (thank you navy), and it's just too much. I too live in a windy area. I went out out and bought a set of detachable aero bars (yes I understand all the safety concerns and protocol, so no lectures please). Problem solved, I can be a lot more aero than on the hoods and it's just enough relief for my back not to scream. BTW I mainly ride endurance, long distance riding...


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I like compact bend drop bars on most of my bikes. I'm still less comfortable in the drops in general, but they're a great position for descents and really big efforts, which is what I want from them. I was never able to make ergo bend drops work for me - the angles were always wrong. I do okay with classic, but I like the transition from the tops to the ramps to the hoods better with compact.

Paying for a pro fit is some of the better money I've spent on cycling. I don't think your use of mountain bike pedals is a problem. I think they're probably better for a ton of road cyclists, actually. And IME, it's not too hard to adjust a good fit once I know what it feels like. You might bring up your handlebars when you go to get fit.


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## nsfbr (May 23, 2014)

Before you go buying a new stem, and with a nod to my general "go get a fit, it is more than worth it" statement, I'd suggest simply flipping your stem. That is, if it, like mine, is angled. That was one of the (many) things that happened during my fitting. Wouldn't you know, at 52, I'm not as flexible as one might like. Today, I'm most comfortable in the drops, but my drops are not are droppy as they were. It also addressed what might otherwise be a reach issue. 

Remember, the reason for the drops is that they are comfortable. And the flat back thing is really important. Rotate the pelvis, flatten the back, enjoy the ride.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Just get fitted... Eat the investment. It made my bike seem like a completely different bike the first time I did it. In the long run it will be among the best investments you can make in cycling.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

PBL450 said:


> Just get fitted... Eat the investment. It made my bike seem like a completely different bike the first time I did it. In the long run it will be among the best investments you can make in cycling.


Ditto this!


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Maybe it's the shape. I really don't like traditional shape bars. I prefer the pointy compact shape without a flat bottom. Normal bars aren't comfortable for me.


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

MMsRepBike said:


> Maybe it's the shape. I really don't like traditional shape bars. I prefer the pointy compact shape without a flat bottom. Normal bars aren't comfortable for me.


I thought about bar shapes and have been keeping an eye on the local for sale stuff, same with a stem. 

For now, I'll flip my stem and see how it rides tomorrow night. Simple and easy. 

A fitting session is on is in the future. I just want to work out the little kinks first. Got my pedals today, one less thing that will change, that's why I wanted them before a fitting.


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## southpaw533 (May 29, 2007)

Terrasmak said:


> I'm 6'1 with a 34.5 inch inseam (all legs ) and also have pretty long arms.


You're not all legs, I'm 5'8" with a measured inseam of 34"


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

southpaw533 said:


> You're not all legs, I'm 5'8" with a measured inseam of 34"


Surely you are a lot closer than he...


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

Honestly, I don't spend much time in the drops even in races. But, I think there's an important consideration I don't see addressed (unless I missed it). Being on the hoods with your arms in the proper position (elbows near the body and bent at near 90 degrees) is more aerodynamic than straight/locked arms in the drops. 

Spend some time watching your arms while you're on your hoods. I'd be willing to bet you're arms are nearly straight or completely straight. This effectively means you're putting your upper body weight on your arms (as was mentioned by someone else). This hurts the upper back and neck, makes the arms tired, and god help you if you're on long stretches of rough road. 

Bend at the waist, keep your arms relaxed on the hoods, and the elbows bent. If you do that, honestly, you rarely need to be in the drops. If you're doing a TT or are coasting down a 15% in a tight tuck, sure. Otherwise, it's not that big of a deal. Correct posture, on the other hand, is that big of a deal.


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## Mandeville (Oct 18, 2014)

One of the better over 65 riders in my area has a 36-37 inch inseam but he's not THAT tall. The guy is figuratively all legs. He was unable to buy a standard production frame as the size to accommodate his seat height left him too far from the handle bars even with the shortest reach setup. He had to have a custom bike built for his use. (He uses it well too!)


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

A fit is money well spent - I was quite amazed at the difference. Give some thought in advance to any issues you are having on the bike including the drops - comfort / soreness etc and make sure you let the fitter know about these at the start of the session (he/she will surely ask too).


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## Rokh Hard (Nov 25, 2013)

i love riding in the drops. it is where i have the most comfort and yes it is a flexibility issue along with a core strength issue.

if the belly is getting in the way, keep riding it will come off (if you watch what you eat).....and take some yoga flexibility classes. they are great for that as well.


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## 70sSanO (Feb 16, 2015)

As others have said it is probably best to get fitted. I have been fortunate that I was able to do my own setup without discomfort and for now, at 63, I am able to ride in the drops.

The key, regardless if it is a road bike or a mountain bike, is to be balanced to where you can literally loosen your grip on the handlebars and not feel like you are falling forward. Peter White has a nice write-up on bike fit.

My younger brother had an issue with riding in the drops and he raised his drop bars enough but also adjusted the stem length to where he can now ride comfortably in the drops. If you are having a problem with the wrist angle you may want to look at a more traditional shallow drop bar instead of a flat top, or even a randonneur type of drop.

John


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## woodys737 (Dec 31, 2005)

Ride in the drops with unbent wrists. Where you hold the bar (in the curved part or hooks) and the bar angle help achieve this. A bar angled so the end of the bar with the plugs in it is more or less level helps to keep your hands more in the curved part of the bar rather than too far back or close to the plugs.

Pic----->


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## Rokh Hard (Nov 25, 2013)

shes hot





woodys737 said:


> Ride in the drops with unbent wrists. Where you hold the bar (in the curved part or hooks) and the bar angle help achieve this. A bar angled so the end of the bar with the plugs in it is more or less level helps to keep your hands more in the curved part of the bar rather than too far back or close to the plugs.
> 
> Pic----->
> View attachment 305568


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Shelley Old, lives in Spain now. She's tiny...I was her team mechanic that year and a few seasons prior to that. That was quite a season, she won crit nats, Mara won road nats, and Coryn won the jr crit...can't remember if there were more titles for the team that year. I think Sinead might have won U23 TT.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

cxwrench said:


> ...I was her team mechanic that year and a few seasons prior to that.


You need to be the dude wrenching for Team Hitec Products.

edit - hmmmm ... just looked a their website and it appears Siri Minge is no longer with them. Oh well.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

ibericb said:


> You need to be the dude wrenching for Team Hitec.


I'd take that job...


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

cxwrench said:


> I'd take that job...


You passed the IQ test. :thumbsup:

Sadly, it appears Siri Minge is no longer with them. :cryin:


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Before I head out on the road during the kids nap time tomorrow, I'll have my wife take a couple pics of me riding out front of the house. Maybe a picture will show me and others what could be wrong.


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## pssyche (Mar 9, 2015)

I never rode road bike before getting GT Grade few months ago. At first I didn't feel comfortable in drops, but flipping the stem made a ton of difference - now I probably ride in drops 60-70% of times, doing distances up to 100 km without discomfort. Sure bike doesn't look as pro, but who cares, I don't either  - I don't wear lycra and helmet, don't use clipless and occasionally even ride with my backpack on. I still have about 5 cm saddle to bar drop, and I really like that GT's flared out handlebars, I feel it gives more natural hand position. Also at first I had to do conscious effort to not hunch my back and neck but bend from the hip, and don't lock my arms, but it become second nature now (still find myself doing it from time to time when getting tired).


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## rjnear (Aug 21, 2013)

Thanks, I was one of those riders that did not ride in the drops due to not being comfortable. After see this thread and photo about rotating the bars down I am now riding comfortable in the drops, I rotated my bars down about 5 degrees and this made all the difference. Thanks



woodys737 said:


> Ride in the drops with unbent wrists. Where you hold the bar (in the curved part or hooks) and the bar angle help achieve this. A bar angled so the end of the bar with the plugs in it is more or less level helps to keep your hands more in the curved part of the bar rather than too far back or close to the plugs.
> 
> Pic----->
> View attachment 305568


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Didn't get to ride today, had to head over an get great pricing on a couple jerseys and bibs during nap time. Getting a 10mm shorter stem tomorrow for cheap off craigs list. 

I actually rotated my bars up slightly shortly after I got the bike. I had to much weight on my wrists riding on the hoods.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

A lot of good advice has been offered here. What about your core strength? I find that core strength can play a role in your level of comfort riding in the drops.
I personally do not spend a ton of time in the drops. I ride a few minutes a time but not much.


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Shuffleman said:


> A lot of good advice has been offered here. What about your core strength? I find that core strength can play a role in your level of comfort riding in the drops.
> I personally do not spend a ton of time in the drops. I ride a few minutes a time but not much.


i would say Ok but lacking what I would like. With riding and work out time with my job, it's improving. 

Also so I have never been very flexable, even when I was very young.


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## Mandeville (Oct 18, 2014)

I ride a great deal in the drops when climbing a long canyon with any type of head wind. Also when trying to get a maximum speed on the flats for a short distance. 

Finally even on a "regular" ride I will at least once in the ride drop down into the drops for five minutes or so to maintain flexibility for the upper back and to keep the neck "conditioned" to the position.


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Mandeville said:


> I ride a great deal in the drops when climbing a long canyon with any type of head wind. Also when trying to get a maximum speed on the flats for a short distance.
> 
> Finally even on a "regular" ride I will at least once in the ride drop down into the drops for five minutes or so to maintain flexibility for the upper back and to keep the neck "conditioned" to the position.


my neck also bothers me after a minute. I'm sure it may get better over time. I also can't seem to get the right glasses, it's like I'm always trying to look thru the upper frame


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Are your bars below your saddle? Mine are, but probably about a quarter inch - not much. And certainly not as much as is fashionable. IMO, if you've been riding a while and the drops position doesn't work for you, you'll be better off putting them where they do.

One of my teachers used to say, "Get a body to fit your leotard or a leotard to fit your body." People often do some adapting when they first pick up or resume riding bikes, but that slows down a lot after the first few months. Meanwhile, it defeats the purpose of a tool if it's too uncomfortable to use.


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

Terrasmak said:


> i would say Ok but lacking what I would like. With riding and work out time with my job, it's improving.
> 
> Also so I have never been very flexable, even when I was very young.


Assuming that you have been fit properly, I would just try to ride in them a little each time that you ride. Build up your tolerance and your flexibility. 
If you are completely comfortable riding without being in the drops than it really is no big deal. There is no rule stating that you have to ride in the drops. Perhaps there is simply a flexibility issue.
I recently started mtb riding again. I pulled out my old 26er mtb and that I rode every day back in the 1990's. I spent 7-8 solid years of riding that bike hard and loved it. At 47, not so much. The bike is simply too small for me now. I lack the flexibility that I used to have. I ended up buying a new 29er and I can tell you that the difference is night and day. The old one felt like I was riding in the drops the entire time. As we age, our bodies require different things and change. I am not saying that your flexibility is poor but it is possible that it has changed like mine has.


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

Flipped the stem, about to take an hour ride, seems a little tall, but will feel it out.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Depending on your stem angle, that can be a pretty big change. You might try moving it down a spacer or a couple to split the difference. There are calculators on the 'net if you want to be precise.


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## Terrasmak (Jan 8, 2015)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Depending on your stem angle, that can be a pretty big change. You might try moving it down a spacer or a couple to split the difference. There are calculators on the 'net if you want to be precise.


Yes it was a huge change , very easy to ride in the drops, but still working on the handlebar ange to get the hood where I want them. 

I will shuffle the spacer stack tomorrow, as it did feel to high during my ride. I'm still also trying to pick up a cheap stem for testing. I kinda think I have to much weight on my arms.


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## woodys737 (Dec 31, 2005)

Terrasmak said:


> Yes it was a huge change , very easy to ride in the drops,* but still working on the handlebar ange to get the hood where I want them*.
> 
> I will shuffle the spacer stack tomorrow, as it did feel to high during my ride. I'm still also trying to pick up a cheap stem for testing. I kinda think I have to much weight on my arms.


Bar angle/rotation=such that wrists more or less straight when in the hooks.

Hood placement=this youtube at 49 seconds in. Bottom line=rotate bars first then move hoods into position. You will have to unwrap the bars to move the shifters but it's simple. One hex wrench and done. Notice the flat part of the hoods where you place your palms are at the same level as the tops. Meaning the same plane...Check it out.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Terrasmak said:


> I'm still also trying to pick up a cheap stem for testing. I kinda think I have to much weight on my arms.


This is one of those counter intuitive aspects to bike fit. Meaning, while you're focusing on stem length/ angle and weight on your arms/ hands, the real culprit may be your f/r weight distribution biasing toward front due to saddle position. 

If you haven't yet been fitted, it may well save you time and money in investing in a standard fitting.


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