# Removing a ronded out Allen bolt.



## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

So I have an Allen bolt in the 9sp XT cranks on my mountain bike. I think it was becasue the 5mm allen key I was using was a bit rounded. Its one of the pinch bolts in the non drive arm. So its torqued in kind of tight I don't think I can remove it with a screw driver. Its also recessed in the crank arm so I cant get in there with a Dremmel to cut a slot. Any one got a trick to remove it? Short of drilling it out and getting a new crankset.


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

pulser955 said:


> So I have an Allen bolt in the 9sp XT cranks on my mountain bike. I think it was becasue the 5mm allen key I was using was a bit rounded. Its one of the pinch bolts in the non drive arm. So its torqued in kind of tight I don't think I can remove it with a screw driver. Its also recessed in the crank arm so I cant get in there with a Dremmel to cut a slot. Any one got a trick to remove it? Short of drilling it out and getting a new crankset.


You can get an "easy out" tool from Sears or an auto parts store. It looks like a tapered drill bit with left hand threads. You insert it into the stripped allen bolt hole and turn it counterclockwise. The threads dig into the allen head and grip it so you can back it out.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Try pounding in the next size up Allen head socket. Keep in mind that socket may be standard instead of metric. It usually works.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

bigbill said:


> You can get an "easy out" tool from Sears or an auto parts store. It looks like a tapered drill bit with left hand threads. You insert it into the stripped allen bolt hole and turn it counterclockwise. The threads dig into the allen head and grip it so you can back it out.


I was wondering about that. I tried looking online but I didn't find any that small. I don't want to wast the trip to the mall. I hate that place.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

tihsepa said:


> Try pounding in the next size up Allen head socket. Keep in mind that socket may be standard instead of metric. It usually works.


I have a 5.5 mill key that might work. I also read you can epoxy the right size one in and some times that works too.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Also. Try retightening the one that you can get out. It may take some pressure off the one that is stuck.


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## meverett (Sep 25, 2011)

If you have a Dremel tool, you can create a new slot with a cut off wheel. Then you can use a flathead screw driver.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You need to drill a hole for the EZ-out. The recess in an allen head bolt is not deep enough for it to get a purchase. But EZ-outs suck- they don't work all that well and they break very easily. Then you have a very hard piece of steel stuck in your bolt. It's harder than any of your tools. Good luck getting it out.

I would try first grinding the end of an allen socket flat so the bottom of the hex has sharp edges. Tap it in so it's fully seated. If that doesn't work, get an appropriate sized torx socket and hammer it into the bolt head. Use penetrating liquid on the bolt first. You can also gently heat the crank arm with a propane torch where the bolt threads in before you try to loosen it. That may discolor the anodizing, so you might try wrapping it with rags and pouring boiling hot water on it instead.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

I'd go with trying to stick an imperial key in there after tightening up the other pinch bolt to take some pressure off of the stripped one.

Worst comes to worst, just drill off the head and then you can work on getting the shaft of the bolt out.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

robdamanii said:


> I'd go with trying to stick an imperial key in there after tightening up the other pinch bolt to take some pressure off of the stripped one.
> 
> Worst comes to worst, just drill off the head and then you can work on getting the shaft of the bolt out.


I hvae the other one as tight as I can get it. And I tried getting a 5.5 key in and its not working. So next I think I'm going to try and get a standerd size or a trox.


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## dmong2 (Sep 14, 2011)

This happened to me recently. I do a lot of personal wrenching, but this was one I took to the lbs and it was a bear. Took about an hour and a half but he saved the crank.


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## robdamanii (Feb 13, 2006)

pulser955 said:


> I hvae the other one as tight as I can get it. And I tried getting a 5.5 key in and its not working. So next I think I'm going to try and get a standerd size or a trox.


I'd give the standard (imperial) a serious try. It's worked for me on more than one occasion (both on hex cap screws and regular hex bolts.) Torx could certainly work too; it might have enough contact points to grip it enough to pull it out.

You may also be able to wrap the 5mm wrench in electrical tape or something like that to add just a pinch of bulk.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

robdamanii said:


> I'd give the standard (imperial) a serious try. It's worked for me on more than one occasion (both on hex cap screws and regular hex bolts.) Torx could certainly work too; it might have enough contact points to grip it enough to pull it out.
> 
> You may also be able to wrap the 5mm wrench in electrical tape or something like that to add just a pinch of bulk.


Yea Thats what I am going to try. I have to make a run to sears in the morning.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

An ordinary drill bit can do it too. Drilling out some of the material in the bolt relieves some of the pressure on the threads. So sometimes you get lucky and you can reverse out the bolt. I've actually done pretty well with this, when it's come up. If your crankset is like mine, the back of the pinch bolt is exposed too. So you can drill in the correct direction, into that part. Make a pilot hole first so you don't screw up the threading on the crank arm itself. I bet if you try this, the bolt screws right out.


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## nepbug (Jun 6, 2006)

Torx tapped in, if that doesn't work you're likely using an easy-out.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Left handed drill bits work wonders also.


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## sanrensho (Jan 2, 2003)

Torx screwdriver bit tapped in. Has worked for me every time and no need to drill or buy an EZ-out.


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## knightev (Sep 22, 2011)

pulser955 said:


> I was wondering about that. I tried looking online but I didn't find any that small. I don't want to wast the trip to the mall. I hate that place.


i have nothing to say except this made me laugh. the mall is a dark, terrible abyss.


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## Erik in sac (Jul 12, 2011)

sanrensho said:


> Torx screwdriver bit tapped in. Has worked for me every time and no need to drill or buy an EZ-out.


Same here.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

sanrensho said:


> Torx screwdriver bit tapped in. Has worked for me every time and no need to drill or buy an EZ-out.


Worked grate thenx guys. Now I just have to see if I can find a replacement bolt.


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## nhluhr (Sep 9, 2010)

Same question, but this time it's the T30 Torx bolt on a Dura-Ace crank with hollow chainrings so you can't just drill through it?


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## ckit67 (Oct 26, 2006)

Just had to remove one. Get a drill bit that fits in the allen key hole. Drill it out till it hits the washer underneath. Once the head is drilled out the pressure on the bolt will be released. Use a small drill bit and drill into the center of the bolt on the opposite side of the bolt head. Since the pressure has been released, after a few seconds of drilling, the drill bit will catch the bolt and screw it right out. It took about 2 minutes.


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

I broke a bolt off inside the block of my outboard motor. Aluminum block. Tried the usual drill it/EZout method. Broke the EZout. Called several shops. Got a response of "Your on your own Buddy". Got a carbide Dremel bit and ground out the around the broken EZout. Once I got that out, I got some left hand drill bits (Harbor Freight) and drilled the broken bolt out with my reversible drill. Started with the smallest bit and went up in size. About three turns into the second drilling the bolt screwed right out. I no longer use EZouts unless that is the only thing available. If you do have to drill iout something like this, go back with a tap of the same size as the threaded hole to clean up the threads. Reinstall the new bolts with Loctite blue. It keeps the bolt tight but also keeps the bolt form seizing up.


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