# For those who run a single gear, what ratios?



## boroef

Firstly, I have to appologize for posting this thread in the fixed gear forum, but I dont know where else to ask!!

I'm riding a single gear (read: freewheel) road bike as my commuter and was wondering what those of you who do so run for gearing?

(yes, i've checked searches...all gearing discussion was for fixed). Obviously, on a freewheel you no longer get the flywheel effect that a fixie would provide...and i was just wondering what people run in hilly areas for comparison's sake.

I'm running 42x19 or a measely 59 or something silly gear inches... I can average a pace of about 30kmh comfortably with rpms at about 100 (cadence is only a guess). i've tried 42x13, and that was totally impossible for me to climb anything worth mentioning


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## BianchiJoe

For general purpose road riding, a lot of people start with a 70" gear and adjust from there. Since you have a freewheel, you can get away with a smaller gear since you don't have to pedal down the hills like a maniac. If you live somewhere really hilly, you might find a 65 - 68 is light enough for climbing, but won't slow you down _too_ much on the flats. If you're a flatlander, you can probably turn a 74" gear and really haul the mail. 

As it stands now, your 42 x 13 is a humongous 87.2 g.i., and your 42 x 19 yields about a 60 g.i. If you like the 42T ring size, get a 16T cog and you'll be at 71 g.i., which I'm willing to bet will feel pretty good to your legs.

Best of luck!


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## Kram

I had a 42x18 on mine. Able to climb most things and still carry a decent pace on the flatlands.


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## boroef

BianchiJoe said:


> For general purpose road riding, a lot of people start with a 70" gear and adjust from there. Since you have a freewheel, you can get away with a smaller gear since you don't have to pedal down the hills like a maniac. If you live somewhere really hilly, you might find a 65 - 68 is light enough for climbing, but won't slow you down _too_ much on the flats. If you're a flatlander, you can probably turn a 74" gear and really haul the mail.
> 
> As it stands now, your 42 x 13 is a humongous 87.2 g.i., and your 42 x 19 yields about a 60 g.i. If you like the 42T ring size, get a 16T cog and you'll be at 71 g.i., which I'm willing to bet will feel pretty good to your legs.
> 
> Best of luck!


i totally agree with what you're suggesting here...but i dont know how workable a 42x16 on a freewheel would be on climbs. I mean, on a fixed gear u kind of have the wheel helping the cranks turn over...but on a freewheel, it's all your legs! isnt the 70 gear inch range really proposed more for fixed gear bikes in general?  (i honestly have no clue, i've never even ridden a fixed gear bike to know what it really feels like on climbs!)

kram59's gearing on the other hand, sounds pretty good


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## BianchiJoe

boroef said:


> but i dont know how workable a 42x16 on a freewheel would be on climbs. I mean, on a fixed gear u kind of have the wheel helping the cranks turn over...but on a freewheel, it's all your legs! isnt the 70 gear inch range really proposed more for fixed gear bikes in general?



On climbs, I don't think the rear wheel is helping much, honestly. And like I said, you might find a 65" or 68" feels better to you if you live somewhere hilly. The 70" is just a starting point. 

My fixie has a 69" gear (but the bigger cyclocross tires add to that), and I can clmb almost everything except the _really_ long, _really_ steep ones. I think whether fixed or free, that's the gear that would be most comfortable for me. Any lighter, and I'd be spinning out on the flats. Any bigger, and I'd be in the hurt locker on the hills. 

FWIW, the singlespeed freewheel-equipped Bianchi San Jose comes stock with a 42 x 17, or a 66.7 gear inch.


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## desurfer

Funny, I was just going to post something like this. I took my new SS roadie (Bianchi San Jose) out for a good ride in moderately hilly northern DE / eastern MD yesterday. (great bike, BTW; there's a review in the SS forum on MTBR, written before any long rides). I have the stock 42/17 (66.7 GI) gearing on there. 

I'm a strong singlespeed mountain biker, but I thought some of those hills were going to kill me. Granted, I haven't been road riding since the fall on a Lemond gearie, but it seems SSing on the road is a whole different beast than offroad. I'm used to shorter standing bursts rather than long grinds out of the saddle. I rode ~35 miles and was beat. I don't know if I should gear down or just let it come to me, like it did on the mtb.

Okay, bottom line, 67 gear inches felt too big on some hills, but on the flats it spins out a bit to quick for my liking. So I guess it depends on what your goals are. For now, I'm going to tough it out on the steep parts and see if my legs get stronger. I hope that helped.


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## Mel Erickson

Whether it's fixed or free, gear for the hills. That's why no one can give you a definitive answer because no one knows how strong you are or what the hills are like around your neck of the woods. On a fixed gear you're also limited by your ability to spin downhill but a freewheel eliminates this problem. A typical fixed gearing is 2:1 but free will probably be a little more agressive. If you find 42/19 too easy and 42/13 too hard you already know you need something inbetween. This doesn't leave too many choices. I'd start with a 16 or 17 and see how it goes. Cogs are pretty cheap and plentiful. Don't worry about gear inches and ratios and whether 42/19 is measly or not. Go with what works for you.


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## dogmeat

*And how FAR are you riding?*

I'm a noob, and no monster roadie- but I'm no longer roadkill, either.

I'm running 46/17 which is about 71 gear inches, I think- on fixed gear. Yeah, fixed gear really does climb better, for me. It's very cool, that way.

What kicks my butt is a 20+mph headwind. Hills around here- you can avoid them or go looking for them, and ya can get over them in a few minutes, usually. Wind... that's just unrelenting, this time of year.

I took my fixed-gear out on a 28 mile out-and-back that is my "sprint" route on my geared bike... the wind kicked my butt... 14 miles straight up wind... I was once again Dogmeat, although I was looking pretty spiff for the first 7 miles, even considering hitting some energy-sapping bigger hills at the start of the ride. I just could not keep up the power required to keep the rpms up past about 30 minutes. So.. for me, it's how LONG I'm fixin', and what is the wind doing.

Personally, I don't see the point in single speed- a nice 3 speed or even higher hub looks pretty interesting... makes for a nice clean drivetrain. Fixed, on the other hand... wow- I'm learning a lot!

Step in to the light.... C'mon, just try it. You won't get hooked, or anything. You can go back, any time you want. All your friends are doing it. Just once. Hey, I'll even spot you your first cog...

'meat


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## boroef

BianchiJoe said:


> On climbs, I don't think the rear wheel is helping much, honestly.


ouch. then you fixed gear riders must all be total monsters spurting track racer legs-the-width-of-your-torso's 'cause 70 gear inches is pretty big to climb long/steep hills with!

i had always figured that a fixed gear bike would at least marginally help you on the climbs since the wheel is directly connected to your crank/leg/you!

i'm pretty okay with the whole 42x19 thing that i have...i'm running 25 width tires so it makes it a bit taller. i dont have issues spinning, since on my geared bike i ride at high cadences anyways. The only thing I might try is drop it a tooth and see how it feels...the entire thread was just a feeler for seeing what you guys run for comparison's sake, since there were no previous discussions on freewheeled ss riding!

i dont really ride far with this bike: 30km per day, 5 or so days in a row every week. just that the route i commute on has several hills, and in one direction there is a slight constant grade


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## Fredke

I'm running 48x20 with 700x23 tires for 63 gear inches.


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## BianchiJoe

Mel Erickson said:


> A typical fixed gearing is 2:1 but free will probably be a little more agressive. .


A 2:1 ratio is typical for singlespeed _mountain bikes_, not fixed gear! A 2:1 ratio gives you a 54" gear - _way_ too low for fixed riding. Typical fixed gear for the track is usually 3:1, or 81", and even that's often too light for experienced track racers. 

I stand by my original recommendation for freewheel singlespeed road riding: use 70" as the baseline, and adjust from there. A range of 65" - 68" will probably work if the terrain is hilly.


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## tobu

BianchiJoe said:


> A 2:1 ratio is typical for singlespeed _mountain bikes_, not fixed gear! A 2:1 ratio gives you a 54" gear - _way_ too low for fixed riding. Typical fixed gear for the track is usually 3:1, or 81", and even that's often too light for experienced track racers.
> 
> I stand by my original recommendation for freewheel singlespeed road riding: use 70" as the baseline, and adjust from there. A range of 65" - 68" will probably work if the terrain is hilly.


81 would be way too light for experienced track riders. they might turn something like an 84-86 during training, but most times they run close to 90, somewhere around an 88 to 94. Maybe up close to 100 in a world class team pursuit. i almost always run a 90 or 92.


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## Mel Erickson

Most SS mountain bikers don't run anything near 2:1. I ride a 32/20 or a 32/18 depending on the terrain. Few but the monster riders will run a 32/16. Something around 3:2 is more common.

I also stand by my statement. Don't pay attention to the gear inches. Your legs will tell you what works and what doesn't. Individual fitness levels and terrain vary so rules of thumb aren't much use. Sure, you've got to have a starting point but he's already got that. Gear for the hills (or hill substitutes like wind as another poster said, however wind is more fickle whereas hills are always there) and the rest will take care of itself.


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## JCavilia

*You're laboring (pedaling?) under a misconception*

"I had always figured that a fixed gear bike would at least marginally help you on the climbs since the wheel is directly connected to your crank/leg/you!"

The "flywheel" effect may smooth out the stroke, but it doesn't "help" you turn the pedals. Any kinetic energy that the moving bike puts back into the cranks only got there because you pushed in the first place. On the climbs there's basically no effect. There's no free lunch. A fixed-gear bike is not a perpetual-motion machine. 

The reason people often use a taller gear on a FG than on a SS is not because they're "total monsters" (well, some are, but sure as hell not me), but so they don't have to spin so fast on the downhills. If you ride FG in hilly terrain, you basically choose the gear by finding the biggest gear that you can push up your worst hill without injuring yourself. It will still be too low when you spin wildly down the same hill. My lightweight fixie has a 75-inch gear, and I occasionally ride it up hills where I bog down to about 25 rpm. When I turn around and go back down the hill I have to ride the brake to keep under 150 rpm or so. If I had a SS freewheel I'd use a lower gear to make the climb easier, and I could coast down. That's why people sometimes use a flip-flop with a fixed cog on one side, and a bigger (i.e., lower) SS freewheel on the other, as a bailout if they get tired or get caught in worse terrain than they expected.


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## Cerddwyr

boroef said:


> i totally agree with what you're suggesting here...but i dont know how workable a 42x16 on a freewheel would be on climbs. I mean, on a fixed gear u kind of have the wheel helping the cranks turn over...but on a freewheel, it's all your legs! isnt the 70 gear inch range really proposed more for fixed gear bikes in general?  (i honestly have no clue, i've never even ridden a fixed gear bike to know what it really feels like on climbs!)
> 
> kram59's gearing on the other hand, sounds pretty good


I actually think you have this a little backwards. The wheel doesn't have enough momentum to really help you when you grind, only when you spin, and on a freewheeling SS you can rest a tiny bit between pushes, where as on a fixie you must simply go, and go hard, till you either reach the top or can't go any more. There is no rest stroke option.
That said, I agree with 70" being a pretty good gear. I run 42X16 and I can now spin short downhill distances at 150, and cruise the flats at 100-120 for quite a while, while also climbing reasonably long 6-7% grades and short grades up to 12% (if they are in the few hundred yard range and I get some momentum up . 

Best,
Gordon


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## sam.g

I built up a fixie/SS commuter this past January and have only put on a couple of hundred miles, but as a newbie here's my experience so far. Started out with a 42/18 free and 42/16 fixed ratios. The 42/16 fixed was initially too difficult for the quarter to half mile 6% grade hills where I live, but on the other hand I couldn't keep a decent pace on the 42/18. so I purchased a 17 free wheel and found this to be my sweet spot. This past week I found a really nice 44 tooth chain ring and installed it. While the 44/17 is only marginally easier than the original 42/16, I'll try to stay with the 44/17 ratio (69.9 gi) and hope that I get stronger it's easier to keep a comfortable pace on the flats. As mentioned earlier a ratio which produces ~70 gear inches seems to be the best way to go.


As for fixed verses free, I spend most of my time in free as I'm overly cautious in traffic and my 56 year old bones don't need to meet the pavement.

Sam


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## michaeln

I run 42:16 on the fixed side and 42:18 on the free side of my flipflop hub. The 42:16 is fine for me most of the time, unless I have a lot of climbing to do in which case I flip it over for the lower ratio of the 18 and the freewheel for the downhill side. I seldom use the 42:18 free side though.


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## BianchiJoe

Mel Erickson said:


> Few but the monster riders will run a 32/16


Then I guess I and everyone I ride SS with are monsters. Good to know. 



Mel Erickson said:


> Don't pay attention to the gear inches. Your legs will tell you what works and what doesn't.


You and your legs will go broke buying cogs and rings trying to randomly determine what might feel right. Gear inches provide a standard unit of measurement that establishes a baseline, and accurately tell you how much of a differenece you'll make when you switch cogs or chainrings.


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## boroef

wow, great discussion! i never expected to get so many responses!!!

i'll maybe give a 42x18 a shot, or even a 42x16 and see how it feels like. but to my ears, they sound like pretty big gears to be pushing up any notable climbs!

in conclusion, all you fixed gear riders are total monsters!!!

riding behemoth sized gear ratios and climbing hills...while never being able to stop pedaling? animals, i say--animals! *shakes fist*


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## VaughnA

boroef said:


> i totally agree with what you're suggesting here...but i dont know how workable a 42x16 on a freewheel would be on climbs. I mean, on a fixed gear u kind of have the wheel helping the cranks turn over...but on a freewheel, it's all your legs! isnt the 70 gear inch range really proposed more for fixed gear bikes in general?  (i honestly have no clue, i've never even ridden a fixed gear bike to know what it really feels like on climbs!)
> 
> kram59's gearing on the other hand, sounds pretty good


To me a 42/16 is perfect with a freewheel. I'm running that with a freewheel right now. Trying to decide if I want to pull the trigger on a fixed wheelset. I'm in a very hilly area (Lynchburg, Va) at the edge of the Blue Ridge and I'm able to climb every hill on my normal training rides which around here aren't flat. I had my worries about a loop that has some nice short climbs but I can actually climb a lot of them seated. It has taught me that I'm falling into the spin up the hill mode too fast on my geared bike. In one month it has made me a stronger climber on both bikes. I know there are some climbs that would kill me because of thier length but for the most part even around here I think that 70 gear inches is about perfect.


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## Travis Bickle

*Gearing*

_wow, great discussion! i never expected to get so many responses!!!

i'll maybe give a 42x18 a shot, or even a 42x16 and see how it feels like. but to my ears, they sound like pretty big gears to be pushing up any notable climbs!

in conclusion, all you fixed gear riders are total monsters!!!

riding behemoth sized gear ratios and climbing hills...while never being able to stop pedaling? animals, i say--animals! *shakes fist*_

You'll be suprised what you can climb after a few weeks. I know riding fixed has made me a stronger rider. No way around it, riding fixed/SS you will just have to work harder.


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## djg

I'd try taking away two teeth in the back to see what you think. You might be surprised what you can churn up. As has been pointed out, it's not for us to say what will work for you (we don't know ya) on the hills you like to ride (we don't know them either). As has also been pointed out, nobody's getting up any sort of hill by way of the flywheel effect: if you're heading up hill on a fixie, you turn the pedals yourself or you fall over. Still, a 42 x 19 seems like a mighty easy gear for the flats--I'd be inclined to try dropping it down to a 17 to see how it feels.

FWIW: I've got my fixed gear bike running a 44 in front and a 16 in back and it's just fine for me, around here. And I am not a monster ... I am a man.


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## Mel Erickson

But he's already told us what's too high and too low for him. He knows the range. Gear inches aren't going to help him much at all at this point. Only trial and error will and all he has to do is buy a couple of cogs for a few bucks each. Hardly going broke.


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## BianchiJoe

Mel Erickson said:


> But he's already told us what's too high and too low for him. He knows the range. Gear inches aren't going to help him much at all at this point. Only trial and error will and all he has to do is buy a couple of cogs for a few bucks each. Hardly going broke.


He's got it "narrowed down" to a ratio between 60 and 87 gear inches. There are five cogs that fall between his 13T and his 19T. I'm guessing you advocate that he spend $150 and buy all five, and maybe three $50 chainrings to really dial it in. 

Knowing gear inches is an effective _guideline_ that's been used for over a century, and costs nothing. Your stubborn resistance to having this simple bit of knowledge mystifies me, but carry on. This argument probably means more to you than it does me.


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## wesley124

44 in the front and on the flip/flop hub in the rear, 16 on both the fixed cog and the freewheel...

I live around primarily rolling hills, so there is a lot of climbing and the 44/16 has worked out great. On the flats it's not a problem maintaining 18-22 mph with this gearing ratio, but I don't think I could push faster than 22 mph with the gearing set up this way.

Sheldon Brown of Harris cyclery has a page if you haven't checked it out already all about selecting the proper gearing ratios for singlespeeds and fixed gear bikes - his contribution to cycling is extensive ...if you googled ' "sheldon brown", fixed ' it would take you right to it.

good luck with everything.


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## WrongBikeFred

VaughnA said:


> To me a 42/16 is perfect with a freewheel. I'm running that with a freewheel right now. Trying to decide if I want to pull the trigger on a fixed wheelset. I'm in a very hilly area (Lynchburg, Va) at the edge of the Blue Ridge and I'm able to climb every hill on my normal training rides which around here aren't flat. I had my worries about a loop that has some nice short climbs but I can actually climb a lot of them seated. It has taught me that I'm falling into the spin up the hill mode too fast on my geared bike. In one month it has made me a stronger climber on both bikes. I know there are some climbs that would kill me because of thier length but for the most part even around here I think that 70 gear inches is about perfect.


I have a hilly commute and run 39 X 15 on a single speed road bike. No problems and my rpm's only drop real low when I want an easy day. FWIW, I'm no monster with legs as big as my torso.


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## Mel Erickson

I understand and use gear inches just like you. However, gear inches won't tell you what works for your fitness level, riding style and terrain. Only trial and error will. Who said anything about buying chainrings? And $150 for cogs? You buying titanium or what? You can buy a whole cassette for $50. This assumes he's using a Shimano hub. A Gusset conversion kit includes a 16 and 18 cog for $20. Shimano BMX sprockets cost $5 each and fit any Shimano cassette hub ever made.


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## slowrider

44x18 works best for me. I tried 44x16 into the headwinds and cold, where I live, and it killed me. 44x18 is a gear I can use in the spring getting back into shape, the summer when I'm in shape, and the fall when the cold winds, and my body is ready for a break.


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## JP

I'm running a 42 x 17 for 65 inches. It's the best solution for me where i ride. Often I feel like I should go up to a 16, but then I then ride up that hill to get home and ask myself "what was I thinking?" Fresh legs on flats or rollers are different from tired legs uphill. If it's hilly where you are, you gotta be able to use the bike, so you end up low. I don't think this is a bad thing because it's great training. You know, you don't feel too macho with a 65 inch gear, but what are you going to do?

Gotta agree with what you're getting here. You don't need to spend a bunch to narrow it down. Buy a 16 or a 17 see where that puts you and adjust from there. At most you're going to need 2 or 3 more cogs, and they're good to have around. Have fun.


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## BianchiJoe

Mel Erickson said:


> I understand and use gear inches just like you. However, gear inches won't tell you what works for your fitness level, riding style and terrain. Only trial and error will. Who said anything about buying chainrings? And $150 for cogs? You buying titanium or what? You can buy a whole cassette for $50. This assumes he's using a Shimano hub. A Gusset conversion kit includes a 16 and 18 cog for $20. Shimano BMX sprockets cost $5 each and fit any Shimano cassette hub ever made.



Yes, of course you're right about cost. I was thinking of what I spend on fixed gear cogs - about $30 each for Euro-Asias. 

However, if you _really_ want to dial in the perfect gear, you shouldn't limit yourself to a particular chainring (in his case, a 42), and chainrings cost almost a buck a tooth.

And if, as you say, you use gear inches like I do, then you are in fact using gear inches to determine the correct gear for your fitness. In my case, a 74 was too big and a 66 was too small, so I split the difference. If I hadn't known which combinations would give me the various gear inches, I would have just had to guess as to which cog and ring would feel right. Yes, there's still some guesswork involved, but as I've said at least three times already, the gear inch is a good _baseline_ measurement from which you can adjust, and hopefully get right without purchasing more than two cogs or one chainring. To advocate that he simply "ignore gear inches" does the poster a disservice.

I'm embarrassed that I've devoted this much of my life to making this simple point.


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## StillKeen

So a 42 x 16 is 'average' ... but when I look for track cranks, I can only go down to a 47 tooth front ring ... so I should then run something like a 47 x 19/20?

Thanks


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## Mel Erickson

I guess all I'm saying is I get hung up on details and anal stuff like gear inches just as much as the next guy. It's not rocket science and there's probably more than one combination that will work just fine for you and more than one for me and the next guy too. That's the thing about only having one gear, it's never perfect, so a variety of combos will work. Every rider will find one combo that works well on one ride and not another. Another that works fine in April but not in September. One that works when it's windy but not when it's calm. It's just not worth stressing over is all I'm saying and it's pretty easy to find a gear that works without even knowing that gear inches exist. How do all those people who aren't mechanically inclined ever do it? It must be a mystery.


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## Anonymous

*48T chainring*

With a flip flop hub. 14t fixed, 16t freewheel. I say, go a taller gear than you think you can stand. You're always tougher than you think, and it kicks your butt into shape.


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## BianchiJoe

StillKeen said:


> So a 42 x 16 is 'average' ... but when I look for track cranks, I can only go down to a 47 tooth front ring ... so I should then run something like a 47 x 19/20?
> 
> Thanks


StillKeen:

I've found 130 BCD "TA"chainrings that go from a 39 to a 61 in one-tooth increments. If you're running Shimano or Sugino cranks, they should work (but check the BCD anyway, just to be sure).

http://www.branfordbike.com/chains/chains2.html
Others can be found here: http://www.branfordbike.com/chains/chains1.html

More to the point, a 42 x 16 gives you a 70.9 gear inch, so a 47 x *18* would give you 70.5 -- close enough, IMO.


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## DASS

*44:16*

I ride a 44:16 on a steel bike with a steel fork and Phil Wood hubs. It's perfect for me. I ride very hilly terrain in Palo Alto, CA, but not major climbs. I am pretty strong (or so I'm told) so this gear might be too macho for some people. I guess I am a grinder on the fixed gear, not a spinner. Hard to say. I can keep up with most pack rides with this gear at average speeds of about 16-18 MPH. I love it!


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## lonefrontranger

*nope*



boroef said:


> ouch. then you fixed gear riders must all be total monsters spurting track racer legs-the-width-of-your-torso's 'cause 70 gear inches is pretty big to climb long/steep hills with!


steep, well... depends what you call steep. long, not so much, just get stubborn and wind that sucker up. stand up if ya have to, it'll teach you good out of the saddle climbing technique if nothing else. I run a 48x16 fixed, and I live in Boulder, Colorado, which has a few hills. and I'm old and female. not that that bit tremendously matters, cos I've been on a bike for a couple decades and pretty much have the fixte thing wrestled to the mat... but if I hear one more college boy type whining about 'this gear's too steep' I'm gonna frickin' hurt somebody. you got a darned Y chromosome, use it! only thing that kicks my sorry butt on the fixte is the brute force headwinds we get out here. ow. 

YES single speed (free) vs. fixed IMO one really does have to run a smaller ratio. I dunno the real reasons behind this, but it seems less efficient somehow, like mebbe the extra takeup in the ratchet sucks your power? just my take. my SS (mtb with slicks) has a 42x17 on it, and half the time that thing just owns the heck outa me on anything that goes uphill. and that's on 26" wheels, even (meaning it's a smaller ratio).

I ran a 42x16 on my last fixte and it was too bloody small. going uphill isn't the issue for me, it's trying not to kill myself descending. 

in the famous words of the anonymous Nike marketing dude: just do it.


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## Spinfinity

*Get the gear ratio you use on flat land with no wind.*

JCavilia spins faster than me, climbs better than me, and rides a smaller gear. I roll at a pretty good clip and find a little bigger gear (44x15 or 79 inches) works great. I used to have a 42x15 or 75.6 gear inches which worked pretty well except for spinning out too easily descending. No single gear will work all the time. That's why gears are so popular. 

Part of the value of riding fixed is how much your legs can adapt to different kinds of effort.


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## zvillehaze

*Gears for a flatlander*

I ride mostly flat to rolling terrain and typically use a 52 x 18 (76 GI) to ride comfortably in the 18-22 MPH range. When I feel like going faster in the summer, I'll switch to 52 x 16 (85 GI).


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## boroef

zvillehaze said:


> I ride mostly flat to rolling terrain and typically use a 52 x 18 (76 GI) to ride comfortably in the 18-22 MPH range. When I feel like going faster in the summer, I'll switch to 52 x 16 (85 GI).


my gosh, those are big numbers! i ride within a similar range (18-20mph) but with my little gears. obviously, i spin like crazy...even on my roadie i spin around 100 normally.

i've switched to an 18 rear cog now (61gi), seems pretty darned good! i think i will leave it as is for now...gives me a little more high end, and i spin even on my road bike anyway


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## tubafreak

Maybe this is a bit noobish of me (and rightfully so) but how does one calculate gear inches? I'm used to final drive ratios (automotive stuff), gear inches are new to me.


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## nate

tubafreak said:


> Maybe this is a bit noobish of me (and rightfully so) but how does one calculate gear inches? I'm used to final drive ratios (automotive stuff), gear inches are new to me.


http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html#gearinch


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## crestlinefarm

*Freewheel, fixed, and track ratios.*

Early this season, I started riding a freewheel single speed to commute. In December, January & February I put in about 1000 miles commuting and building base miles, the gear ratio was a 52x20 (68"). I use a road crankset with the inner chainring removed and bought the biggest freewheel I could since, on my way home, I have a 2 mile climb that averages 10% with some stretches of 15%. At first I was out of the saddle on the steepest sections but by the end of February I was climbing the whole way seated. When I switched to my geared bike I felt I had more power than usual for the early season and didn't have the usual difficultly climbing. I also ran a 39x15 (68"--same as the 52x20) fixed on the street to get ready for track racing. Last summer on my track bike I ran a 48x15 (84") but just switched it out to a 52t chainring (91"). I was running out of top end with the 48t (my max cadence is still around 120). I haven't made it out to the track yet to see if I still have enough acceleration with the 52...
I'm also planning to give cyclocross a try this fall on the single speed switching to the inner 39t chainring and the 20t freewheel (39x20 = 51") though that might not be enough for the flatter courses.
Gotta LOVE flip-flop hubs!


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## tobu

If you were riding a 48x15 last season 52x15 probably won't work for you. A 52x15 is much bigger than 91 inches, I think it's between 93 and 94 gear inches. It might work for races in which you only have to accelerate once and top end is at a premium, but it will wear on you if you have to jump more than once, and it will also wear on you if ride more than one race a day. The 52x15 is really a keirin gear or a super fast point race gear, so i'd think you be a lot better off running a 49 or 50 since you've only used a 48.


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## boroef

crestlinefarm said:


> Early this season, I started riding a freewheel single speed to commute. In December, January & February I put in about 1000 miles commuting and building base miles, the gear ratio was a 52x20 (68"). I use a road crankset with the inner chainring removed and bought the biggest freewheel I could since, on my way home, I have a 2 mile climb that averages 10% with some stretches of 15%.


*choke* excuse me? u can climb a 15% grade hill with a 52x20? how long is this climb? and just how monstrous are you?


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## Hybridbike

BianchiJoe said:


> For general purpose road riding, a lot of people start with a 70" gear and adjust from there. Since you have a freewheel, you can get away with a smaller gear since you don't have to pedal down the hills like a maniac. If you live somewhere really hilly, you might find a 65 - 68 is light enough for climbing, but won't slow you down _too_ much on the flats. If you're a flatlander, you can probably turn a 74" gear and really haul the mail.
> 
> As it stands now, your 42 x 13 is a humongous 87.2 g.i., and your 42 x 19 yields about a 60 g.i. If you like the 42T ring size, get a 16T cog and you'll be at 71 g.i., which I'm willing to bet will feel pretty good to your legs.
> 
> Best of luck!


BIanchiJoe on 70”gear, can u go 25mph on flat w/o spinning d crank too fast? Any suggestions? Thanks!


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## shrubs

This is a 2014 Nashbar Argyle with a COASTER brake thatI acquired. After some forum reading I need to say it is 42/16 29in. 76 inch gear inches. The 76 works out great on the flat and gentle inclines. Not great on extended hill climbs.

Reading previous posts, some are probably long forgotten, I may want to try a 70 gear inch set up. I want to do this by changing the cog. Say a 17.

New in this arena, no SS free or fixed time. am I within reason thinking these thoughts?
Whats a good online part source for SS rear cog for a coaster?
This gonna be a lot of work?

Cheers.


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## josh672

boroef said:


> Firstly, I have to appologize for posting this thread in the fixed gear forum, but I dont know where else to ask!!
> 
> I'm riding a single gear (read: freewheel) road bike as my commuter and was wondering what those of you who do so run for gearing?
> 
> (yes, i've checked searches...all gearing discussion was for fixed). Obviously, on a freewheel you no longer get the flywheel effect that a fixie would provide...and i was just wondering what people run in hilly areas for comparison's sake.
> 
> I'm running 42x19 or a measely 59 or something silly gear inches... I can average a pace of about 30kmh comfortably with rpms at about 100 (cadence is only a guess). i've tried 42x13, and that was totally impossible for me to climb anything worth mentioning


I run a 72:12 fixie. No joke. I challenge you to find anyone with a taller gear ratio.


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## Mike Overly

I pulled something just _thinking_ about a 72:12 fixie. My beloved Colnago Super Sprint recently lunched the derailleur hanger. I've chained her out to 70" for now -- fine enough for the flats & no traffic.


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