# 2012 CAAD10 4: What to upgrade?



## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

Just bought a 2012 CAAD10 4. I'm just wondering what the consensus is on what I should upgrade first? In other words, where is this bike most deficient? 

I know that wheels are generally the best thing to upgrade, but I just don't have the ~$1000 to spend on a worthwhile pair right now (I would love a really sexy pair of matte black carbon ones). Would a $500 pair be a substantial upgrade over these Fulcrum 7s?

What are some little things I can upgrade that will really improve the bike? Carbon seatpost for vibration dampening (streets of Brooklyn are suck)? Tires for weight and handling (and nice orange sidewalls!)? Stem/handlebar replacement weight and vibration-dampening? A nicer pair of shorts?

There are websites out there that say what to bother spending money on first, but I was just wondering what the consensus is here.

I use the bike for fitness laps in a nearby park, but I find myself getting intense enough that I might start racing, haha. This summer, I'll be using the bike to commute (large backpack...) in Atlanta, GA.

I've got new orange handlebar tape coming my way.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.


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## tober1 (Feb 6, 2009)

Big fan of that colour scheme.

As for upgrades. It doesn't seem like there's anything holding you back at this point and you just want to throw some money at it. Instead: take some days of work and ride all day! Consider that money well spent on 'upgrades'


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

haha, good point... maybe i should clarify: i only go to the park and do laps, but when i do i push myself. i want to be able to go faster, and i want to avoid the "numb bum" that sets in after 10 miles.


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## tober1 (Feb 6, 2009)

If you're having numb-bum you might want to consider a professional fit. Something beyond what your LBS gave you. Sometimes it's a matter of getting used to a road saddle and sometimes there's a bigger fit problem, but that's pretty soon to experience discomfort while riding. 
I know I had to switch my saddle right away when I got my CAAD9-5.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

hmmm, yeah, i was thinking of going to a big fancy bike shop and getting a fit beyond what the LBS did. there are a couple in the NYC area around me that i'm sure would do a stellar job.

is numb bum unavoidable if you're in the drops for extended periods of time? i'm typically in the drops for that entire 10 miles, except maybe for 1 or 2 miles of climb


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## tober1 (Feb 6, 2009)

Definitely not unavoidable. Every pro and most people in the levels below ride largely in the drops and don't experience it. I'd start with a good fit and see if they won't work something out with you for a deal on a saddle that suits you better. Sometimes they will give you discounts on parts if they'll help with your fit (new stem etc.)
Good luck. 
Sweet ride. Enjoy it.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

will do, thanks for sharing the knowledge!


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

ybgirnadnerb said:


> haha, good point... maybe i should clarify: i only go to the park and do laps, but when i do i push myself. i want to be able to go faster, and i want to avoid the "numb bum" that sets in after 10 miles.


Why do you want to go faster? If you're not racing and just doing laps in the park, does it matter if it takes you 2min longer? Quite frankly, $1000 wheels wouldn't even accomplish that. Your wheels are roughly 1850g. Not super light but not bricks either. 

If you're going numb after 10mi something isn't right.


ybgirnadnerb said:


> hmmm, yeah, i was thinking of going to a big fancy bike shop and getting a fit beyond what the LBS did. there are a couple in the NYC area around me that i'm sure would do a stellar job.
> 
> is numb bum unavoidable if you're in the drops for extended periods of time? i'm typically in the drops for that entire 10 miles, except maybe for 1 or 2 miles of climb


I don't think you benefit from a big fancy bike shop over an LBS. Sometimes the big shops hire young'ns to do their shop work, while the small LBS has an old timer who really knows his stuff. It's hit or miss.

I really like the idea of "upgrading" comfort before speed. Especially if you're having problems. Money spent on a fitting, perhaps a new seat, and better shorts would serve you much better.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

It's not deficient! Just ride it. You'll have a good feel for what you want to upgrade after you spend some time on it.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

thanks guys. i think this is all just nervous energy that i'm channeling away from final exams (2 weeks!) and towards my bike, haha...


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## charlox5 (Jan 31, 2011)

if you want to improve ride quality, tires are relatively cheap and easy to install and will yield real improvements at very little cost to reliability, speed, or your wallet. not sure how much you weigh, but if the bike is on cheap 23c oem tires, a good set of 25's will probably feel really great by comparison. 

the carbon seatpost/stem/etc won't make nearly as much difference as the tires. and you can get a nice set of wheels for $500 or less--BWW blackrace's are ~$350, weigh 1350 grams, and are generally well regarded by everyone for their value/durability. then again, don't expect to be much faster or even see a big difference in ride quality.


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## jpaschal01 (Jul 20, 2011)

Where did you get the orange bottle cages? What brand are they?


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

LBS, www.roysbikes.com, handed them to me as we all came together to love/hate the bike's strange color scheme. They relished the opportunity to rid themselves of an unpopular color. The brand is apparently "Velocity," this looks like them: Velocity Trap water-bottle cage orange. Amazon seems to be fresh out...after another member of this forum asked me where he could find them. It's hard to get the bottles in and out, but the price was right.


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## earlfoss (Aug 1, 2010)

To lighten up the bike you could upgrade the seatpost and stem to save a pretty ok amount of weight. Those two stock items are pretty heavy.


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## CAADEL (Jul 23, 2011)

earlfoss said:


> To lighten up the bike you could upgrade the seatpost and stem to save a pretty ok amount of weight. Those two stock items are pretty heavy.


They are not that heavy. I weighed them in and these are the results









Cannondale C3 stem 100mm, 127gr. 
Quite light for a stock stem.









Cannondale C3 Seatpost 27.2x300mm, 248gr


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

earlfoss said:


> To lighten up the bike you could upgrade the seatpost and stem to save a pretty ok amount of weight. Those two stock items are pretty heavy.


Thats an expensive way to save little weight in areas that wouldn't even be noticed.


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

Assuming you have money to spend....as the bike is fine as is, my suggestions would be these:

If the bike needs some adjustments to fit right, spend the money on a bike fitting and the appropriate parts to get it right (stem change, seat post change, handlebar change).

Numb butt shouldn't be an issue and is generally caused either by an improper fit or a poor saddle for your body type. Saddles are always a contentious issue because what works for one person won't work for another with an identical body type...you will have to play around here and find what works for you. Sometimes the saddle is fine and it's just a matter of playing with saddle tilt, height, fore/aft position and turning it just a bit off center from one side to another (yes, they can make all the difference in the world as our bodies are not symmetrical).

If everything is fine with fit and you figure out your numb butt issues the best places to lose weight are these:

1. Wheels...you will notice the biggest difference here in terms of acceleration and climbing and can take significant weight off the bike for $500-$1000 (around one pound would be possible in that range as the Fulcrum 7's are heavy).

2. Saddle...Stock saddles on bikes in this range tend to be pigs and dropping 4 oz of weight for $100 can be achieved easily.

3. Crankset...The stock Apex crank is heavy and a downgrade from the Force they had on it last year. A change there can save 4oz - 6oz, but will run you several hundred dollars.

Those are the primary areas for change...but unless needed...are not really needed until the parts need to be replaced due to excessive wear.

Having recently purchased a CAAD10 4 I had to change parts out for fit reasons (knew this before buying the bike) but already had most of the parts laying around my garage. I changed the stem, seat post, handlebars, saddle and top cap (on the headset). I also put my Powertap wheelset on the bike. 

The only thing I may change in the future is the crankset to both get different gearing (50x36 instead of 50x34) and get a little lighter.


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## ARPRINCE (Feb 12, 2011)

CAADEL said:


> Cannondale C3 Seatpost 27.2x300mm, 248gr


Well it's a little heavy compared to this.









The handle bar is heavy too.


















Having said that, I think the bike looks awesome (I especially like the liquigas color scheme though). I would ride it first and figure out later what you want to upgrade. having taken the route of several upgrades to my bike, I would always go for a wheel set first if I have to do it all over again. On second thought, if I have to do it all over again, I would just buy a frameset.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

Thanks for all the pictures and item weights. Now I know how much my bike weighs! Teehee


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## CAADEL (Jul 23, 2011)

ybgirnadnerb said:


> Thanks for all the pictures and item weights. Now I know how much my bike weighs! Teehee


By the way ARPRINCE's bar is 42cm



ARPRINCE said:


> The handle bar is heavy too.


Here's my 44cm C3. A few grams heavier: 325g



















Τhe stock Prologo Kappa Pas, 311g










And the stock Schwalbe Lugano 700x23, 253g


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## Scotty2h (Sep 28, 2009)

Love that colour scheme. Reminds me of the old Porsche 917's. It's on my shopping list for my first roadbike!


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

In fact, it is that color scheme! Gulf Oil Livery, they call it. Google image it!

I'm putting orange handlebar tape on it right now, I'll be sure to post afterwards


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## dcb (Jul 21, 2008)

I never realized those were Gulf colors. That bike made me think of the GT40 instead.

I wanted my CAAD10 in those colors but they said I'd have to wait a few weeks so I ordered the silver one instead. This thread is great by the way because I've been wondering what the bars, stem and seatpost weigh. 

The only things I've "upgraded" are the wheels because I already had a Neuvation Powertap wheelset, the saddle as I needed a different one to fit my wide ass, and a Red crankset because someone was selling one locally for a great deal and it already had a Cannondale logo on it since it came off a SS.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

ditto. does anyone know how much the sram brakes that came on our CAAD10s weigh? they say sram on them but don't say rival/force/apex/red


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

ybgirnadnerb said:


> ditto. does anyone know how much the sram brakes that came on our CAAD10s weigh? they say sram on them but don't say rival/force/apex/red


Most likely they are Apex, as is the crank. 

I don't know the weight, but they are not what you would consider light...though replacing them wouldn't be worth the cost as they work fairly well stock and the weight saved will be minimal compared to the cost.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

interesting. so these components that they give out numbers to (the crank is called S500 on Cannondale's site I think?) are just relabeled components from their other retail groups? are they different at all? weird...


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

ybgirnadnerb said:


> interesting. so these components that they give out numbers to (the crank is called S500 on Cannondale's site I think?) are just relabeled components from their other retail groups? are they different at all? weird...


The reality is they are probably identical to other models (i.e. same basic specs) in their line up...just manufactured at a different (i.e. cheaper) facility with less quality control or a heavier, cheaper material. 

Then they give them a new model number and call it good.

Also...it's better to call a part a different name than to say the spec on a bike went from a Force crank to an Apex crank, but we are going to charge the same for the bike. If you just say "SRAM Crank", it looks better to the general consumer.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

ah, i see. clever, these manufacturers are!


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

haha yes i am. but it's fun stuff! if you'd told me two years ago that i'd be spending all my free time on a bike, i'd have laughed in your face. i've since realized that cycling combines my interest in whizzing around fast with my appreciation for physical activity...it's the perfect match! keeps you in shape too. 

i suppose it's inappropriate to pursue such high performance parts when i don't race...but i think the same could be said of any hobby! my father builds stereos and speakers that are specifically designed to produce a quality of audio that his ear cannot physically detect. i guess it's the pursuit that we enjoy, not necessarily the destination, if there even is one.


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## tranzformer (Dec 27, 2007)

ybgirnadnerb said:


> ah, i see. clever, these manufacturers are!



Must be new to road cycling?


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## Cbookman (Jul 2, 2009)

I'm betting the brakes are lower level than the Apex brakes, probably from the non-series as SRAM calls it. The Apex brakes I have are labeled as such, and are a bit weaker feeling than the Rival set I have on another bike. I replaced them with Tektro R741s and Swisstop Pads. I like the modulation and stopping power much better than the feeling I get from either of the SRAM brakes I've tried.


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## EuroSVT (Sep 15, 2011)

Something cheap that shows an immediate improvement...ditch those stock tires. The Lugano's have a high rolling resistance or something going on with them. Just an opinion, but that was the first thing I replaced on my 2012 10-4, and something so simple caught me by surprise


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## texascyclist (May 10, 2005)

Since you are new to cycling, please consider this advice: despite appearances, the members on most bike forums are not experts. They are bike geeks that like to sit in front of the computer and have an obsession session. It gives them great pleasure to give advice and feel like an expert. Only 10% really know what they are talking about. Unfortunately, the ones that type with a "loud voice" generally fall in the 90%. These types have severe ADHD when it comes to getting their facts right.

The tire swap is great advice. Ultremo HTs and Mich ProRace series will provide an immediate benefit. GP4000S roll OK and have better puncture protection. If you get a fit, lowering your bar position will provide immediate speed as well.


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## MrHollick (Jun 21, 2012)

What brad are your bottle cages? I can't find oranges ones like those anywhere.


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## NWS Alpine (Mar 16, 2012)

MrHollick said:


> What brad are your bottle cages? I can't find oranges ones like those anywhere.


He posted it on the first page Velocity Trap water-bottle cage orange


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## Dg designs (Jun 24, 2012)

I can vouch for the tire recommendation. I just got a Supersix apex and swapped out the Luganos for 25c gp 4000s. It feels like a completely different bike. Much more comfortable and from what I have read actually less rolling resistance. Don't know about that but i am very happy with the amount of change for just over $100.


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## SpinFast (Jul 22, 2013)

I just got a 2013 Caad 10-4 for a great price and have been riding it for just about a month now. I'm thinking of upgrading tires and what a tire that is somewhat protective with less roll resistance. Any suggestions are appreciated.


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## ybgirnadnerb (Mar 15, 2012)

SpinFast said:


> I just got a 2013 Caad 10-4 for a great price and have been riding it for just about a month now. I'm thinking of upgrading tires and what a tire that is somewhat protective with less roll resistance. Any suggestions are appreciated.


Continental Grand Prix 4Seasons: Continental Bicycle - Grand Prix 4-Season

get the 25mm


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## texascyclist (May 10, 2005)

The Fulcrum 7s are great tough wheels. Just ride them and forget about it. The other wheels you can buy likely have close to the same rim weight, which is where the big benefit is. 

The Cannondale seatpost is full carbon tube (take it out and scratch the edge of the inside if you don't believe me) It is a great post, similar to the syntace p6. Leave it. Caad10 has great vibration damping by itself.

Michelin Krylions are outstanding everyday tires. They are a good price, roll well and have little if any compromise.


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## tranzformer (Dec 27, 2007)

Local Cannondale shop was willing to cut $500 off the Rival CAAD10. Very tempting. But already have too many bikes. lol Some great deals to be had it seems.


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## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

I have serfas seca tires and like them alot. Just don't get white, I have them and if you roll through the right stuff, they literally look like poop.


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## macca33 (Oct 24, 2012)

Continental GP4000S are also very good - just about to hit 4000Km on my set and the rear is almost ready to retire - not one puncture in all that time and believe me, I ride through some crap roads.

cheers


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## charlox5 (Jan 31, 2011)

SpinFast said:


> I just got a 2013 Caad 10-4 for a great price and have been riding it for just about a month now. I'm thinking of upgrading tires and what a tire that is somewhat protective with less roll resistance. Any suggestions are appreciated.


Conti GP4000S in 25c. Mine are fast, grippy, but not overly fragile. zero flats in the 1500 miles i've had them mounted.


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## davist (Oct 25, 2012)

I agree, I put 4 seasons on (I got 28mm as conti's are narrow and wanted a "truer" 25mm) and can't believe the difference. Got about 1k+ miles on them and not looking back. Forget the gram counting, work on the fit, and tires make a huge difference


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## EuroSVT (Sep 15, 2011)

Yeah, what has already been posted about the Conti GP 4000S, worth every penny!


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