# Cyclocross specific chinese carbon



## adam_mac84

I hope that the mods dont end up moving this, but if they do... so be it.

I am curious what CX riders out there are using the chinese frame blank type frames. It is hard to filter through that entire thread in the frames subforum to find 1 or 2 mentions of CX bikes. Wondering who out there is actually using a chinese/ebay CX bike for CX. It's a whole different set of requirements than a road bike, so I figured it could use it's own thread. I'd throw the chinese carbon wheels in there too... I am sure i can't be the only person curious.



A bit of my history with chinese frames. I road an FM028 for about a year (3k miles), and found it way too flexy from front to rear to be a reliable race bike (very flexy headtube/toptube junction area). My fears would be the same for the cx bike, but I rode a 60cm. Looking at a 52 for my wife, so would assume the smaller size may mitigate that problem


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## ms6073

I currently cannot answer specifically about Chinese cyclocross frames but I do two FM059 disc only carbon cyclocross framesets on order from Dengfu. There are 1 or 2 forum members who have purchased FM058 cantilever framesets who might chime in as well.


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## OnTheRivet

adam_mac84 said:


> I hope that the mods dont end up moving this, but if they do... so be it.
> 
> I am curious what CX riders out there are using the chinese frame blank type frames. It is hard to filter through that entire thread in the frames subforum to find 1 or 2 mentions of CX bikes. Wondering who out there is actually using a chinese/ebay CX bike for CX. It's a whole different set of requirements than a road bike, so I figured it could use it's own thread. I'd throw the chinese carbon wheels in there too... I am sure i can't be the only person curious.
> 
> 
> 
> A bit of my history with chinese frames. I road an FM028 for about a year (3k miles), and found it way too flexy from front to rear to be a reliable race bike (very flexy headtube/toptube junction area). My fears would be the same for the cx bike, but I rode a 60cm. Looking at a 52 for my wife, so would assume the smaller size may mitigate that problem


Your FM028 issues had to be a function of bike setup or your frame size as Ive been on a 56cm FM028 for 1.5 years and it's the stiffest bike I've owned almost to a fault. Keeping this on topic I've got 2 seasons on a Pedal Force CX1 (which is an FM021) without a single issue. Just rebuilt it for this season and weighed the the bare frame, 1050g for a 56cm. More telling is my cheapie ebay carbon MTB frame I made into a singlespeed, I fricken kill that bike and no issues.


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## adam_mac84

Let us know when you get them. Let's keep it CX specific (frames/wheel use etc), and not get into mechanical talk, as to keep it from being moved or getting too off topic.


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## rudedog55

i had one of the first CX frames that was on Ebay 4 years ago, rode it for 2 seasons and loved it, sold it to a buddy and bought a Yeti, Ok bike, not in love with it, so i bought a FM058 which i have just started riding and it is sooo much better than the Yeti. Stiff, handles like on rails. I also use 56mm carbon tubbies from China, paired to Bikehubstore bitex hubs in the rear and Circus monkey disc MTB hubs in the front. Bullet proof wheels that i love. They are a bit deep for a cross bike, but i weigh over 200lbs and wanted something a little stiffer. Once the FM059 forks become available, i will swap that onto my FM058 and make it a front disc rear canti setup like my Yeti is currently, ala Mullet.

i would not hesitate to get one, and will probably end up with an FM059 at some point when i decide to rebuild the wheels with disc rear hubs.


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## jared_j

Right now the On One Dirty Disco is on sale for $550 + S/H. It ships fast, and you pay a small premium to deal with someone stateside who can handle customer service issues. I got one of these a month ago.

When I was trolling alibaba.com and aliexpress.com, seemed like at most $100 could be saved relative to the Dirty Disco by going that route and I was quoted lengthy shipping times. Just a point worth considering. And the ones with internal cable routing (the only refinement I saw available over the DD) looked like they'd cost the same once you factored in S&H.


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## sanrensho

Good tip on the Dirty Disco.

For myself, shipping the DD to Canada would mean a $170 premium compared with buying from China. So it looks like I'm going to order an MT024 from China.

I like the fact that the DD/MT024 has a relatively short head tube, as I will be trying to duplicate my road bike position for use as a rain bike. I can't get enough seat-bar drop with a long head tube (bye-bye TCX).


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## Jetmugg

I built up a Hongfu FM-022 'cross frameset for my wife, who said she was interested in getting into 'cross. She hasn't raced it yet, but I raced it a couple of times last season. It's set up as a 1x10, with SRAM apex 11-32 cassette and RD.

The bike is light and fast, and gets plenty of notice, partially because of the pink and black custom paint (also done by Hongfu), and partly because people don't recognize the frameset. I don't know if the FM-022 is based on another manufacturer's design or not..

Steve.


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## Jetmugg

Here's a pic from her first day on the bike - shortly after Christmas. Don't give me any grief about not having a helmet, she put the helmet on before riding.


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## cs1

Jetmugg said:


> Here's a pic from her first day on the bike - shortly after Christmas. Don't give me any grief about not having a helmet, she put the helmet on before riding.


My wife would kill for that bike.


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## adam_mac84

I think i wil pick one of these up for my wife. So far, the FM058 seems to lead the category in geometry/fit and also has tapered head tube. Have to see what the lead time is for getting it painted. I found that Icarbonsports.com sells the same bikes as Dengfu, with dengfu having a bit better reputation... (and cooler lines than the 022 from hongfu).


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## Local Hero

Nice bike. 

But dang that's a lot of pink cable back there.


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## Jetmugg

Yes - rear der cable needs to be shortened.


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## mrcreosote

This looks interesting

Road Bike frame items in cyclocross store on eBay!

disk or v-brake
Full internal cables
and AFAICT is Di2/EPS capable

P.S. FWIW I have a FM058 which I use as my commuter bike.


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## ms6073

adam_mac84 said:


> Let us know when you get them.


Picked the frames up from the USPS this morning. Took a quick snapshot of the frames (image below) and a quick inspection reveals that the internal cable ports for the rear brake cable are plumbed for mechanical brakes. Rumor has it SRAM will have hydraulic Red shifters/brakes very soon but when road hydaulic becomes available, I will have to carefully drill out the cable bosses which I may due anyway to run a full length housing to the rear brake. Inspection of the contents of the box and I found 2 frames (size 52 & 56), 2 forks, 2 seat post clamps, and the 2 extra deraileur hangers I requested but no headsets (not surprised). So while I did not yet weigh the forks, I was pleasantly surprised to find the weights a tad less than advertised with the size 52 weighing 1240 grams and the 56 weighing in at 1270 grams.


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## mattsavage

I raced the FM058 last year and will be this year. I'm 200# and hammer the crap out of it but it doesn't miss a beat. This year I'm building the China direct model of the Dirty Disco from Ican Sports. I'm building it up as a SS with Beer components eccentric BB, since it has a BB30. I ordered it with no cable guides and had Ruckus Components install internal routing. This thing is wicked beefy and totally overbuilt, yet really light at 1080 grams for a 58cm. 

Their new disc model is Di2 compatible... http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/581148672/2012ICAN_New_carbon_Cyclocross_frameSP_AC098.html


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## adam_mac84

ms6073 said:


> Picked the frames up from the USPS this morning. Took a quick snapshot of the frames (image below) and a quick inspection reveals that the internal cable ports for the rear brake cable are plumbed for mechanical brakes. Rumor has it SRAM will have hydraulic Red shifters/brakes very soon but when road hydaulic becomes available, I will have to carefully drill out the cable bosses which I may due anyway to run a full length housing to the rear brake. Inspection of the contents of the box and I found 2 frames (size 52 & 56), 2 forks, 2 seat post clamps, and the 2 extra deraileur hangers I requested but no headsets (not surprised). So while I did not yet weigh the forks, I was pleasantly surprised to find the weights a tad less than advertised with the size 52 weighing 1240 grams and the 56 weighing in at 1270 grams.



Very nice!!! those will build up super light!


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## mudrock

I've ridden the Dirty Disco about 1k miles so far (recovering from an operation and have 1 month no riding). It's very stiff. Bonus (for me) is that the DD is made by Bev in Taiwan. No dealing with China (I hate the Chinese govt w a passion!). $550 now on sale Planet X USA Web Store


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## sanrensho

Pulled the trigger on an MC024 frame (Dirty Disco) yesterday from Miracle Trade. I hope this goes well.

Now a mad rush to get a rear disc wheel build and 31.6 seatpost.


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## Birddog

Dirty Disco owners, how come the steep seat tube angle on these frames and how does that affect frame size? I can't quite wrap my brain around this.


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## mattsavage

Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today. 15lbs with Hope V-Twin hydro's. Going to shave down the der. hanger and anodize it black to clean it up.


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## Black37

Nice!! Is this a Dirty Disco, Dengfu, Hongfu...??

How did she race? How did you like the disc breaks? 




mattsavage said:


> Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today. 15lbs with Hope V-Twin hydro's. Going to shave down the der. hanger and anodize it black to clean it up.


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## mattsavage

Black37 said:


> Nice!! Is this a Dirty Disco, Dengfu, Hongfu...??
> 
> How did she race? How did you like the disc breaks?


The frame is from Ican Sports: Aliexpress.com : Buy 2013 new cyclocross frame,carbon cyclocross frame with disc brakes ,carbon cyclocross bicycle frame from Reliable bicycle carbon track frame suppliers on Shenzhen Ican Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.

It's essentially a Dirty Disco. I compared them side by side yesterday at the Titus tent. Absolutely identical except the finish and the BB.

It raced amazingly! Super stiff, zero flex in the rear. Point it where it needs to go and it's there, no flex in the front end or fork, it just rails corners.

The brakes are good. There's a few kinks to work out. The routing from the levers to the master cylinders is not optimal. I set them up real quick at 1am the night before. So there's some tough bends and the pads and rotors aren't bedded in. I'm gonna redo the the routing up top, use new hope rotors and install fresh pads and do it up right. I'm using XT ice tech rotors..

The initial performance was really good though. Excellent modulation, no dragging, no fade. A little short on power, but that's do to them not being broken in properly. Overall I'm pleased with them and they'll be phenomenal once dialed. Set up seemed like a ***** at first but now it's easy. With the reservoirs angled and directly under the stem, you have to pull the stem and rotate the master cylinder to bleed them, which is a pain. The mounting plate is a little weak too, could be stiffer. Maybe that's intentional, so it bends if there's an impact of some sort, which isn't likely in that position...

Anyway, I like it. The bike is rad. Best carbon cross bike I've owned yet. Excellent geometry, stiff frame, looks good.


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## seat_boy

Anyone know of someone who sells these frames in a size bigger than 58cm?


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## ms6073

adam_mac84 said:


> Very nice!!! those will build up super light!


Although our disc cyclocross bike project is still awaiting the arrival of the carbon 29er wheels we ordered from Light-Bicycle.com, I was able to use a spare 26" American Classic disc wheelset to build up the wifes bike over the weekend. Technically, the wife's bike is finished and while the diameter of 26" wheels with mtb tires is pretty close to that of 700c wheels with Specialized Trigger Pro clinchers, it has not yet been ridden but looks good and weighs in at 7.1 kg. 

Fit and finish of the frames was nice but no headset was included and a query to DengFu revealed that I failed to notice it was not on the invoice at the time I ordered but Cane Creek 110 Series 1 1/8" upper with 1.5 lower works well although the outer diameter of the headtube is ~1mm wider than the upper bearing cover. Post mounts are for 140mm rotors and will require spacers/standoffs for 160 or larger but I was disappointed to find that the internal routing of the top tube routed rear brake is plumbed for the typical road brake setup thus not (yet) possible to run full length housing much less hydro brake line without some modification. I also found that the rotor mounting bolts of the front wheel slightly graze the inner face of the lower fork post mount but have not yet taken any steps to correct this as the Am Classic hubs on the 26" wheelset in question are 2008/2009 vintage and I want to see if this happens with the 29er carbon wheels built with NovaTech 711/712 hubs.


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## WTFcyclist

mattsavage said:


> Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today. 15lbs with Hope V-Twin hydro's. Going to shave down the der. hanger and anodize it black to clean it up.


Nice! I wonder how can you tension the chain? Do you use eccentric hub or some kind of eccentric bottom bracket for BB30?


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## mattsavage

WTFcyclist said:


> Nice! I wonder how can you tension the chain? Do you use eccentric hub or some kind of eccentric bottom bracket for BB30?


Yeah, it's a BB30 and I'm using a Beer Components eccentric BB adapter for externall BB cranks.

I'm a heavy dood and hammered on it hard and the adapter never budged.


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## WTFcyclist

It also looks nice as a "round the world" bike with road components. 








Mike Hall sets a new record for cycling around the WORLD.
https://xtremesport4u.com/extreme-l...ts-a-new-record-for-cycling-around-the-world/

But I thought Dirty Disco is BB30..... On Titus website, it says "Frame takes a 31.6mm seatpost, a standard 1.125in stem, a 34.9mm front mech. Standard threaded English BB (notBB30 as previously reported)."
https://shop.titusti.com/On-One-Dirty-Disco-Carbon-Cyclocross-Frameset-p/froocxd.htm


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## JackDaniels

mattsavage said:


> Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today. 15lbs with Hope V-Twin hydro's. Going to shave down the der. hanger and anodize it black to clean it up.



What rotor sizes do you use for this frame?


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## mudrock

WTFcyclist said:


> But I thought Dirty Disco is BB30..... On Titus website, it says "Frame takes a 31.6mm seatpost, a standard 1.125in stem, a 34.9mm front mech. Standard threaded English BB (notBB30 as previously reported)."
> On One Dirty Disco Carbon Cyclocross Frameset


The Dirty Disco is an "open mold" design sold by Bev (or Bevato, as they mark their own frames) in Taiwan. it can be ordered by brands like On One with a standard or a BB30, but only in lots of 50, say. It is also available through other sources, like Alibaba, in singles with a BB30.

I gotta say, I'm very impressed that frame made it around the world, average 200 miles a day, without any failures. I haven't heard one way or the other, but the guy wouldn't have broken the record if something broke!


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## MShaw

Out of curiosity, anyone know which frame the November Bicycle's frame is?

M


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## mattsavage

JackDaniels said:


> What rotor sizes do you use for this frame?


160mm. But you could run up to 180 if you wanted.


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## loona

are all Chinese cyclocross frames and forx disc brake ready ?

is there a price list online for deng-fu frames ?


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## OnTheRivet

loona said:


> are all Chinese cyclocross frames and forx disc brake ready ?
> 
> is there a price list online for deng-fu frames ?


Put "Deng Fu" into Google and this was the first site that came up, amazing. 


http://dengfubikes.com/


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## mattsavage

loona said:


> are all Chinese cyclocross frames and forx disc brake ready ?


No...


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## loona

on the web site
it does not have pricing. 
it simply says inquire for pricing 
(e-mailed them waiting for reply )
site does not say which frame is canti lever brake model. 
and which frame is disc brake ready model.

... the forum members here who build these bikes up 
make them look incredible.


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## the mayor

loona said:


> on the web site
> it does not have pricing.
> it simply says inquire for pricing
> (e-mailed them waiting for reply )
> site does not say which frame is canti lever brake model.
> and which frame is disc brake ready model.
> 
> ... the forum members here who build these bikes up
> make them look incredible.


I bet the one titled "2013 disc brake cyclocross" is for cantilever brakes.....


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## loona

yes, but what is the price.


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## sanrensho

mudrock said:


> The Dirty Disco is an "open mold" design sold by Bev (or Bevato, as they mark their own frames) in Taiwan. it can be ordered by brands like On One with a standard or a BB30, but only in lots of 50, say. It is also available through other sources, like Alibaba, in singles with a BB30.


Could you expand on this? My supplier (Miracle Trade) was vague about whether their frame is the same as the DD, although she said it was from the "OEM factory."

So are the DD and DD-like frames all definitely made in the same factory? And wholesalers order them in different specs (BB, paint)? Is the carbon layup the same though?


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## rdubbz

loona said:


> yes, but what is the price.


42


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## mattsavage

loona said:


> on the web site
> it does not have pricing.
> it simply says inquire for pricing
> (e-mailed them waiting for reply )
> site does not say which frame is canti lever brake model.
> and which frame is disc brake ready model.
> 
> ... the forum members here who build these bikes up
> make them look incredible.


Here, browse through these... This is where I buy all my frames.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=carbon+cyclocross&catId=0&manual=y


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## CamW

I'm too short on posts to add a link but the frame in the above link from focus carbon looks pretty cool (and exactly like the prototype Planet X frame listed for sale on Planet X's website).


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## jroden

are any of those in bigger size? I need a 58.5 top tube and it seems like all those Chinese bikes are shrimp sized


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## CamW

The one I was just speaking of comes in a 58 or a 59.5 supposedly.


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## WTFcyclist

mudrock said:


> The Dirty Disco is an "open mold" design sold by Bev (or Bevato, as they mark their own frames) in Taiwan. it can be ordered by brands like On One with a standard or a BB30, but only in lots of 50, say. It is also available through other sources, like Alibaba, in singles with a BB30.
> 
> I gotta say, I'm very impressed that frame made it around the world, average 200 miles a day, without any failures. I haven't heard one way or the other, but the guy wouldn't have broken the record if something broke!


Thanks! I've found it! 
https://www.bev-intl.com/e-catalog/09/p1.htm


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## roseyscot

how about these wheels? nice, extra width and disc hub options

Farsports-Carbon Bicycle Rim,Carbon Wheel,Carbon Frame


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## ms6073

roseyscot said:


> how about these wheels? nice, extra width and disc hub options
> 
> Farsports-Carbon Bicycle Rim,Carbon Wheel,Carbon Frame


I am in the process of gluing tubulars on 3 sets of those rims that were built by Farsports with Novatec D711/D712 disc hubs (28/28), Sapim CX-Ray hubs and internal nipples with an average weight of 1390 grams. A net gain of only ~105 grams on average per wheelset than the Easton EC90 SL tubulars (18/24) being replaced.


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## Erik_A

Chinese carbon cyclocross frame models (most found here: Wholesale carbon cyclocross -rims -wheels - Buy Low Price carbon cyclocross -rims -wheels Lots on Aliexpress.com) - I am interested if anyone has geometry info on any of these, I am especially concerned with the steep seat tube problem on the Dirty Disco, with folks not being able to get their seats set far enough back to avoid knee pain. I am also wondering is any frame has a 60cm effective top tube (probably not). I am also concerned with too much flex on the larger size frames, so is anyone has experience with that please chime in.

I am pretty sure that this is a complete list, but if not add to it. 


*AC024 *or *MC024 *- Disc brake (Dirty Disco frame mold)

*AC043 *or *MC023* - V-brake (November and Van Dessel frame mold)

*FM059* - Disc brake

*FM058* - V-brake

*AC098* or *MC098* - Disc brake 

*YS-FMCX-01* - V-brake

*FF-R014* - Disc brake

*BVC-7009* - Disc brake

*BVC-7007* V-brake

(last 2 found here: http://www.bev-intl.com/e-catalog/09/p1.htm)

*Pedal Force CX2*: Pedal Force super-light carbon bicycle

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FM059 geometry:


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## roseyscot

ms6073 said:


> I am in the process of gluing tubulars on 3 sets of those rims that were built by Farsports with Novatec D711/D712 disc hubs (28/28), Sapim CX-Ray hubs and internal nipples with an average weight of 1390 grams. A net gain of only ~105 grams on average per wheelset than the Easton EC90 SL tubulars (18/24) being replaced.


how was the purchase experience? responsive? quick shipping? good price for buying 3?


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## mattsavage

roseyscot said:


> how was the purchase experience? responsive? quick shipping? good price for buying 3?


There's a whole thread dedicated to that...

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wh...wheel-thread-2-0-a-241788-97.html#post4130646


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## seanstokley

_


mattsavage said:



Here, browse through these... This is where I buy all my frames.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=carbon+cyclocross&catId=0&manual=y

Click to expand...

_

Have you experienced any hidden fees buying direct like this? I see I can order the Dirty Disco version frame and fork for under $520 including shipping. Still enjoying your DD? You mentioned you're 200lb or so correct and bike is feeling solid? Thanks in advance...

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013...locross-frame-with-disc-brakes/608314270.html 


sean


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## mattsavage

seanstokley said:


> Have you experienced any hidden fees buying direct like this? I see I can order the Dirty Disco version frame and fork for under $520 including shipping. Still enjoying your DD? You mentioned you're 200lb or so correct and bike is feeling solid? Thanks in advance...
> 
> 2013 new cyclocross frame,carbon cyclocross frame with disc brakes ,carbon cyclocross bicycle frame-in Bicycle Frame from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com
> 
> 
> sean


No hidden fees. Just ask for a quote and they'll include the shipping cost. If you pay with paypal, they'll add a 3 or 5% fee, but its shown in the invoice. I've never had any issues with ordering direct from any of the companies on Alibaba.

The DD is awesome, I like it more and more with every ride. The thing is rock solid. Stiff, light, excellent geometry.


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## loona

i contacted a-baygoods to see if they had a pre built carbon wheel set which accepts disc brakes.

i want to buy all three of my carbon project bikes and stuff all at same time.

so trying to get everything from one source.


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## mattsavage

loona said:


> i contacted a-baygoods to see if they had a pre built carbon wheel set which accepts disc brakes.
> 
> i want to buy all three of my carbon project bikes and stuff all at same time.
> 
> so trying to get everything from one source.


I bought the rims M23C from Jason at Ican Sports, the same place I got my frame. They're 29er carbon rims. I'm sure they can be built up with with disc hubs, if they don't already offer them as a wheelset. They're tubeless ready as well.


EDIT: I bought them from Jason at Carbonality, not Ican... Sorry...
NSS M23C - BK - 29er mtb clincher carbon wheelset - 29er MTB - Wheels


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## roseyscot

mattsavage said:


> I bought the rims M23C from Jason at Ican Sports, the same place I got my frame. They're 29er carbon rims. I'm sure they can be built up with with disc hubs, if they don't already offer them as a wheelset. They're tubeless ready as well.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I bought them from Jason at Carbonality, not Ican... Sorry...
> NSS M23C - BK - 29er mtb clincher carbon wheelset - 29er MTB - Wheels


how wide are these rims? the website says 19mm. is that internal width, or external? could you mount road tires comfortably as well as wider than average (40mm) cx tires?


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## mattsavage

They're 23.5mm wide, externally, 19mm internally. Yeah, road to cx no problem.


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## ms6073

mattsavage said:


> They're 23.5mm wide, externally, 19mm internally. Yeah, road to cx no problem.


I have wheels from Light-Bicycle built on similar rims and would think it best to be cautious about that. These are tubeless rims used primarily for XC mountain biking where tire pressures average 23-35 psi and rarely exceed 50-60 psi so a road tire mounted/inflated at 90-110 psi might not be a good idea.


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## jared_j

mattsavage said:


> I bought the rims M23C from Jason at Ican Sports, the same place I got my frame. They're 29er carbon rims. I'm sure they can be built up with with disc hubs, if they don't already offer them as a wheelset. They're tubeless ready as well.
> 
> 
> EDIT: I bought them from Jason at Carbonality, not Ican... Sorry...
> NSS M23C - BK - 29er mtb clincher carbon wheelset - 29er MTB - Wheels


When you set these up tubeless, is it like Stans rims where you hear a loud pop or two as the tire is inflating, with the result being that the bead seems to 'lock' onto the rim, requiring some force to dislodge even at zero pressure? I don't know how to evaluate the tubeless readiness claim...


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## mattsavage

jared_j said:


> When you set these up tubeless, is it like Stans rims where you hear a loud pop or two as the tire is inflating, with the result being that the bead seems to 'lock' onto the rim, requiring some force to dislodge even at zero pressure? I don't know how to evaluate the tubeless readiness claim...


Yes, I get a pop as the bead rides up over the bead seat... I have no idea if it "locks" in or not, haven't deflated them. It's a tight fit on the bead seat though, took a little work to get the tires to seat evenly.


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## mattsavage

ms6073 said:


> I have wheels from Light-Bicycle built on similar rims and would think it best to be cautious about that. These are tubeless rims used primarily for XC mountain biking where tire pressures average 23-35 psi and rarely exceed 50-60 psi so a road tire mounted/inflated at 90-110 psi might not be a good idea.


Yeah, you're right... I emailed the manufacturer and they don't recommend road tires, tubeless or regular. Max psi is 60 on these rims. Good to know.


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## seanstokley

sanrensho said:


> Pulled the trigger on an MC024 frame (Dirty Disco) yesterday from Miracle Trade. I hope this goes well.
> 
> Now a mad rush to get a rear disc wheel build and 31.6 seatpost.




Curious to know how your DD project is/has come along. How was your experience buying from Miracle Trade? Considering buying manufacturer direct like some folks in this forum as I'm doing some research before letting loose with the money. Any information would be valuable. thanks in advance

sean


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## mattsavage

seanstokley said:


> Curious to know how your DD project is/has come along. How was your experience buying from Miracle Trade? Considering buying manufacturer direct like some folks in this forum as I'm doing some research before letting loose with the money. Any information would be valuable. thanks in advance
> 
> sean


These companies are super easy to work with. You find a product you're interested in,make initial contact via their website, keep an email chain going after that, ask all the questions you want, barter for the best price, ask them to cut you a deal if ordering multiple items like bars, stems, seatposts..., then they send you an invoice, you pay (paypal usually is an additional fee) and everything magically arrives. If everything you order is in stock, then it can be just a matter of days to get here.

The best time to contact them is in our afternoon and evenings (pacific time...), their working hours over there. You can often get responses with in the hour that way,. depending on the vendor. Otherwise it can take a day or two to respond.

It's best to order everything at once from them... Bars, seatposts, stems, wheels, etc. you'll get better quotes on shipping, they'll often throw in extras for free like the seatpost collar, waterbottle cages, extra spokes, skewers, etc. Their OEM components are some of the best. I race everything on them from CX to Super D and never had a failure, excellent products.

If you're on a budget, this is the way to go. Way better than buying used and still cheaper than buying closeouts.


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## jjmtb1

mattsavage said:


> These companies are super easy to work with. You find a product you're interested in,make initial contact via their website, keep an email chain going after that, ask all the questions you want, barter for the best price, ask them to cut you a deal if ordering multiple items like bars, stems, seatposts..., then they send you an invoice, you pay (paypal usually is an additional fee) and everything magically arrives. If everything you order is in stock, then it can be just a matter of days to get here.
> 
> The best time to contact them is in our afternoon and evenings (pacific time...), their working hours over there. You can often get responses with in the hour that way,. depending on the vendor. Otherwise it can take a day or two to respond.
> 
> It's best to order everything at once from them... Bars, seatposts, stems, wheels, etc. you'll get better quotes on shipping, they'll often throw in extras for free like the seatpost collar, waterbottle cages, extra spokes, skewers, etc. Their OEM components are some of the best. I race everything on them from CX to Super D and never had a failure, excellent products.
> 
> If you're on a budget, this is the way to go. Way better than buying used and still cheaper than buying closeouts.


Good feedback. I have been thinking of going this route but hesitant to pull the trigger.


----------



## sanrensho

seanstokley said:


> Curious to know how your DD project is/has come along. How was your experience buying from Miracle Trade? Considering buying manufacturer direct like some folks in this forum as I'm doing some research before letting loose with the money. Any information would be valuable. thanks in advance
> 
> sean


I dealt with Mecy at Miracle Trade, and everything went without a hitch. I did ask a lot of questions (including general reservations about paying up front without guarantees), and Mecy answered everything to my satisfaction. PM me for contact info and more details.

The frame was flawlessly packaged and arrived quickly. Build was relatively smooth. I will be riding the bike for the first time this week.



mattsavage said:


> It's best to order everything at once from them... Bars, seatposts, stems, wheels, etc. you'll get better quotes on shipping, they'll often throw in extras for free like the seatpost collar, waterbottle cages, extra spokes, skewers, etc.


I found they were firm on their pricing, despite repeatedly asking. There was a slight discount on the frame but no freebies.


----------



## mudrock

sanrensho said:


> Could you expand on this? My supplier (Miracle Trade) was vague about whether their frame is the same as the DD, although she said it was from the "OEM factory."
> 
> So are the DD and DD-like frames all definitely made in the same factory? And wholesalers order them in different specs (BB, paint)? Is the carbon layup the same though?


I have no idea. I ordered mine from On One but I see several others on the RBR forums that look identical, and the owners ordered them from different places. No clue if they all share the same layup. The DD weighs 1280 grams in a Large size (56cm), which is competitive for a frame that uses a pinned joint on the stay.


----------



## sanrensho

mudrock said:


> I have no idea. I ordered mine from On One but I see several others on the RBR forums that look identical, and the owners ordered them from different places. No clue if they all share the same layup. The DD weighs 1280 grams in a Large size (56cm), which is competitive for a frame that uses a pinned joint on the stay.


Thanks! Mine came in at 1,114 grams in a 50cm size.


----------



## Greg O

I'm not having any luck finding a Chinese/Taiwanese carbon disc frame/fork with bottom bracket drop in the 67-70 mm area. Anybody know of any frames with this sort of drop? Something to more closely match the BB drop of say the new Fuji Altamira 1.3 disc or Hakkalugi disc. Thanks


----------



## Erik_A

Greg O said:


> I'm not having any luck finding a Chinese/Taiwanese carbon disc frame/fork with bottom bracket drop in the 67-70 mm area. Anybody know of any frames with this sort of drop? Something to more closely match the BB drop of say the new Fuji Altamira 1.3 disc or Hakkalugi disc. Thanks


Yea the BB drop is more like 58mm. Does anyone have these geometry chart for the other carbon models? This is FM059:


----------



## Erik_A

For reference, the Ibis Hakkalügi Disc geometry:


----------



## Erik_A

2013 Fuji Altamira CX 1.3 geo:


----------



## Erik_A

The Ridley 2012 X-Fire Disc | Geo:


----------



## Greg O

*BB Drop*



Greg O said:


> I'm not having any luck finding a Chinese/Taiwanese carbon disc frame/fork with bottom bracket drop in the 67-70 mm area. Anybody know of any frames with this sort of drop? Something to more closely match the BB drop of say the new Fuji Altamira 1.3 disc or Hakkalugi disc. Thanks


OK, this just in: BB drop on the Miracle AC098 and the Jiyan JY-C-071 is 67 mm (this is for a 54 cm frame size)


----------



## sanrensho

BB drop on the MC-024 (Dirty Disco) is 68mm for all sizes.


----------



## CouchingTiger

What is the delivery time like on the carbon/disc frames from China off from the Alibaba site?

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## Erik_A

Does anyone know if you can you get one of the Alibaba sellers to add all white paint to the frame fork? (so the bike is all white - not black or raw carbon w/ clear-coat)


----------



## sanrensho

CouchingTiger said:


> What is the delivery time like on the carbon/disc frames from China off from the Alibaba site?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


Mine was lightning fast via EMS. Less than a week to West Coast of Canada.


----------



## Andy STi

I'm having trouble finding the horizontal TT length for the FM058. Any idea where to find it? All I see in the actual length.


----------



## andy13

I am looking at the FM03 from light bicycle. It is Di2 compatible. Does anyone know if there are any issues running cables using regular derailleurs, not Di2? I assume that it is compatible for both but the pic shows a couple of holes in the frame (I am assuming to make it Di2 compatible). Do these need to be plugged? Would the frame come w/ appropriate plugs if necessary? 
Thanks,
Andy


----------



## ms6073

andy13 said:


> Would the frame come w/ appropriate plugs if necessary?


That frame looks identical to the Icann Sports SP-AC098. Since most purchase wheels from Light-Bicycle and that frame is probably a relatively new product for them, you will most likely get the quickest answers by sending a message via the product page on Light-Bicycle's website.


----------



## Greg O

Erik_A said:


> Does anyone know if you can you get one of the Alibaba sellers to add all white paint to the frame fork? (so the bike is all white - not black or raw carbon w/ clear-coat)


I just bought an AC098 from Ican and had it painted gloss white (frame and fork). Quite a decent paint job, and frame delivered in under 3 weeks.


----------



## Greg O

ms6073 said:


> That frame looks identical to the Icann Sports SP-AC098. Since most purchase wheels from Light-Bicycle and that frame is probably a relatively new product for them, you will most likely get the quickest answers by sending a message via the product page on Light-Bicycle's website.


My AC098 that I just received is Di2 ready. It included the 3 extra screw-on covers for the internal cable routing to use either standard cables or Di2. However it did not come with plugs for the other Di2 holes (1 each on the seat tube and down tube). I suspect any decent hardware store would have a rubber plug of the appropriate size. If I don't end up using Di2 I'll just use a small piece of white electrical tape on my gloss white frame.


----------



## ms6073

Greg O said:


> If I don't end up using Di2 I'll just use a small piece of white electrical tape on my gloss white frame.


I would suggest 3M Paint protection film as it is transparent as well as much more durable.


----------



## gregdogg62

mattsavage said:


> Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today. 15lbs with Hope V-Twin hydro's. Going to shave down the der. hanger and anodize it black to clean it up.


Matt

I am thinking about pulling the trigger on one of these frames, and would run it SS like you. Couple of questions.

What pain finish did you go with on your bike? And what hub/rim combo are you running?


----------



## seanstokley

New to this bike building stuff but I'm looking to build one of these cx disc frames from Dengfu. What is the rear spacing of the fm059 disc frame and what headset does it require? If the rear spacing is 130mm what disc hubs did you use to build up your wheels? Can one just squeeze 135mm hubs into them? How are you liking your bike thus far. Strong? Stiff? Compliant where it needs to be? I'm 205lbs will be using it as a road/gravel bike. 

sean


----------



## ms6073

seanstokley said:


> What is the rear spacing of the fm059 disc frame and what headset does it require?


DengFu specs it as 135 but personally, mine seems more like 132.5 as I have to slightly spread the rear triangle when mounting disc wheels with 135 hubs (Novatec and DT Swiss) yet my trainer wheel (non-disc road 130 hub) goes in the dropouts with room to spare. Headtube is 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 and I use Cane Creek 110 Series headset.


----------



## mattsavage

seanstokley said:


> New to this bike building stuff but I'm looking to build one of these cx disc frames from Dengfu. What is the rear spacing of the fm059 disc frame and what headset does it require? If the rear spacing is 130mm what disc hubs did you use to build up your wheels? Can one just squeeze 135mm hubs into them? How are you liking your bike thus far. Strong? Stiff? Compliant where it needs to be? I'm 205lbs will be using it as a road/gravel bike.
> 
> sean


Mine is 135. I'm using the stock headset they ship with it, but you can get both Cane Creek and FSA's for it. It uses a typical tapered integrated headset.

I don't think you can go wrong with these frames. You can put a crapload of miles on them very comfortably. The only thing they lack is fender/rack mounts if it's gonna be your gravel grinder. If that's a feature you need...


----------



## seanstokley

*Manufacturer preference??*

Would you recomend one company over another? Dengfu, Miracle, Ican? You've mentioned that you've ordered merchandise on multiple occasions just wondering who've you been going through as I know you've mentioned your satisfaction in you dealings. Thanks for all the info you've provided in this "Chinese CX Frame" forum its been appreciated. 

sean


----------



## Doctor Falsetti

OnTheRivet said:


> Your FM028 issues had to be a function of bike setup or your frame size as Ive been on a 56cm FM028 for 1.5 years and it's the stiffest bike I've owned almost to a fault. Keeping this on topic I've got 2 seasons on a Pedal Force CX1 (which is an FM021) without a single issue. Just rebuilt it for this season and weighed the the bare frame, 1050g for a 56cm. More telling is my cheapie ebay carbon MTB frame I made into a singlespeed, I fricken kill that bike and no issues.


Thanks for the input 

I have heard the Pedalforce Cross frames are great, are you sure they are the same theFM021? The Pedalforce frames appear to have mounts for a rear rack. 

I am looking to build up a bike for gravel roads and wanted the ability to add some racks and saw the Pedalforce as a good option. Did yours come with eyelets? 

How did you size yours? I understand that a normal cross fit is usually smaller then a road bike. It would only be for 1-2 races per year so I am thinking a normal fit might be better for long gravel rides


----------



## seanstokley

Spoke to Lucky from Dengfu and she reported to me that FM059 CX frame is rear spacing 130mm. Question....now is there rear disc hubs out there with this 130mm or does one just go with the 135mm and spread the rear triangle for mounting the wheel? A little confused with these numbers meaning why would they build these bikes with 130mm when most of the disc dimensions are 135mm.


----------



## ms6073

I am pretty certain it is 132mm as mine is narrower than 135 but is definitely wider than 130 as I have to spread it for my 135 XT swiss/Novatec Mtbr hubs but the non-disc trainer wheel with 130 hub has a slight gap on each side. Other than wheel changes being a tad slower due to having to spread the rear triangle just a hair, there are no issues with 135 hubs on the FM059 frameset.


----------



## gregdogg62

Just got my bike put together. I went with the same frame that mattsavage purchased. The process was very quick to place the order and have it shipped. The build went smoothly with no major issues. I will be riding it the next few days and racing it this Saturday. Bike comes in right at 18 lbs with Avid road bb7 sl's and heavy clincher wheels. I will build up a race wheelset before next season and should be able to get it down around 16 to 16.5 lbs.


----------



## mattsavage

gregdogg62 said:


> Just got my bike put together. I went with the same frame that mattsavage purchased. The process was very quick to place the order and have it shipped. The build went smoothly with no major issues. I will be riding it the next few days and racing it this Saturday. Bike comes in right at 18 lbs with Avid road bb7 sl's and heavy clincher wheels. I will build up a race wheelset before next season and should be able to get it down around 16 to 16.5 lbs.


That's pretty sick! Sorry I didn't see your post when you asked me questions...

Anyway, I went with the gloss 3k finish. I was running Easton XC Ones, tubeless with Bulldogs. Now I'm running chinese carbon 29er clinchers set up tubeless with PDX's. Built to 28 hole Circus Monkey hubs with DT revs. It's about a 1400g wheelset. It was a ***** to build those rims with the Rev spokes though. Next time I'll use some bladed sapim's or something.

I'll be getting the new version of this frame with Di2 for next season. Can't wait!!!

I wouldn't mind picking up one of those Whiskey 15mm thru-axle forks, either.


----------



## mattsavage

That thing is wicked stiff, huh? And it just rails the corners. Perfect geometry in my opinion.


----------



## ms6073

So anyone have any relatively recent experience with Yishunbikes? Noticed that they are now listing a 2013 disc cross frame that I have made inquired about and recalled there were some less than satisfied folks this time last year.


----------



## andy13

Any experience w/ ICAN Sports and/or Light Bicycle on having them paint the frames? I see some frames on their websites w/ paint schemes. Any extra $$? I am also concerned how good a paint job they do. Also, can I design the paint scheme?
thanks, andy


----------



## adam_mac84

Well, I finally found a bike for my wife. It is from Focus-Carbon. It is very reminiscent of a Ridley bike (in nearly every respect). 

Arrival:

0-1 by adam_mac84, on Flickr

Built up with spare parts. It will have SRAM Rival, and pink hoods when it's all said and done. Still deciding on brakes. Have a front mini V on there right now. It's a race only bike, so thinking TRP or narrow profile shimano:


Untitled by adam_mac84, on Flickr

Those are some temporary vinyl stickers i made. We are going to have it shot with paint in the next few weeks


----------



## upmtbyader

Builds are looking good. Notice there hasn't been a post for a while, I am currently researching the Chinese carbon bikes as well for a cross racer and road trainer and looks like the FM059 would suit me well. Looks like people have a few different models they have been ordering which all seem about the same, maybe just different middlemen?


----------



## Andy STi

I went through Miracle bikes to get my frame, MC105. Everything went very well. I've had it for a few weeks and need to start building it up. I think I have everything for it now. Frame is 1200gms for a 58cm and the fork is 450 uncut.


----------



## ms6073

upmtbyader said:


> I am currently researching the Chinese carbon bikes as well for a cross racer and road trainer and looks like the FM059 would suit me well.


We have FM059 from sourced from Dengfu but the IP-105-D from Xiamen Iplay looks to be a good choice although I can point to anyone who has dealt with that reseller.


----------



## TT Max

Hi...I've been looking at Chinese frames for a few months now....there are very few pictures of these frames built up...I know ms6073 has posted his bike...love it!
Here is a more recent one from one of our VeloBuild brothers Prodrive17...
the Dengfu FM059 is by far,is one of the nices CX frames out there...all internal cables
Check it out...
View attachment 275720

View attachment 275721

View attachment 275722


----------



## Erik_A

nice build!



TT Max said:


> Hi...I've been looking at Chinese frames for a few months now....there are very few pictures of these frames built up...I know ms6073 has posted his bike...love it!
> Here is a more recent one from one of our VeloBuild brothers Prodrive17...
> the Dengfu FM059 is by far,is one of the nices CX frames out there...all internal cables
> Check it out...
> View attachment 275720
> 
> View attachment 275721
> 
> View attachment 275722


----------



## TT Max

I'm ordering My Frame after the Chinese New Year...I'm getting 3K gloss finish,then going to decal it with my custom decals then clearcoat it with a top of the line rubberized clearcoat...I'm thinking a satin or matt finish...apparently alot of carbon fibre companies are using it...really expensive to buy!


----------



## Lowside

I ordered the same frame (Dengfu FM059) about a week before Chinese New Year began. Now enduring the agonizing wait! :sad:


----------



## TT Max

Don't forget to post your pics when you receive your package...nice for everyone to see....and of coarse the finish product....


----------



## horizontallyopposed

Has anyone come across a Chinese carbon cross frame that is disc ready AND has provisions for fenders? I'm looking to build up the "do everything" bike that can be used for commuting, but need fenders.

Cheers!


----------



## a.dallaserra

*Here's mine!*



horizontallyopposed said:


> Has anyone come across a Chinese carbon cross frame that is disc ready AND has provisions for fenders? I'm looking to build up the "do everything" bike that can be used for commuting, but need fenders.
> 
> Cheers!


Well here's mine - arrived last monday and this is it on tuesday. I have got new handlebars coming for it (the drop on this is too low) and I use it to do a lengthy daily commute through London and out in Sussex. It is an amazing frame. Super stiff and gorgeous handling. The clearance is not excessive either like my Planet X Uncle John was. I ride mainly road, but prefer the modulation and power of disc.

I built the wheels and pretty much the lot with full Ultegra and am very pleased with the result. It weighs 7.9kg fully built including the pedals and with the new bars, it'll drop to 7.8kg. 

Go for it if you're in doubt. (This is the 3K gloss and "Lucky" from DengFu was my terminal - nice guy)

Aurelien


----------



## TT Max

17 lbs with Disc brakes...you can't beat that!...thanks for posting your bike!


----------



## a.dallaserra

Cheers TT Max! Yeah I shocked myself getting it below 8kg.


----------



## Lowside

seanstokley said:


> What is the rear spacing of the fm059 disc frame and what headset does it require? If the rear spacing is 130mm what disc hubs did you use to build up your wheels? Can one just squeeze 135mm hubs into them?


My FM059 frame arrived yesterday. I measured the rear spacing at exactly 134mm (took three measurements: 133.99, 134.00, 134.01). Weight for my 54cm frame is 1130g, which is lower than I expected. The fork is 496g, a bit higher than I expected.

I ordered from Dengfu Lucky and my frame arrived just 4 days after it shipped. It took a while (about 4 weeks) before it shipped but actual shipping was very quick.

Ted - Denver


----------



## TT Max

Yes the rear spacing is a little tight...but should fit a 135mm hubs no problem...
the headset is a 1 1/8"-1.5" tapered campy style drop in intigrated headset.


----------



## a.dallaserra

Update! New stem, new bars, 7.75KG (decals for extra speed :blush2
View attachment 277174


----------



## TT Max

Thats a nice FM059....a.dallaserra...thanks for sharing!


----------



## sanrensho

Vasqu3ez said:


> I am sure i can't be the only person curious.[/TD]
> [/TR]
> </tbody>[/TABLE]




When is this spammer going to be banned?


----------



## ms6073

a.dallaserra said:


> Update! New stem, new bars, 7.75KG (decals for extra speed )


Nice. Are those 38mm clinchers? Mind sharing details about the wheels/where you sourced them from?


----------



## a.dallaserra

ms6073 said:


> Nice. Are those 38mm clinchers? Mind sharing details about the wheels/where you sourced them from?



Hey Mike,

They are indeed 38mm carbon clinchers. Lovely rims. Got them from here: 38mm clincher carbon bike rims 700C road bike use | eBay

I laced them onto unbranded (Novatec style) 24/20H disc hubs. A little flex on the front, but nothing to major. They definitely work better 2 crossed rather than straight to the rim. I'd recommend 24/24H on discs TBH, but I was going for a showy, super light build... So I'll settle for the slight flex! 

Aurelien


----------



## Will Be Was

*FM058 Deng Fu*

View attachment 277842



Took few months


----------



## Jocache83

Thinking about getting a cyclocross frame. For the people who bought the frame, how are they holding up out in the trails or in races?

thanks,
Joel


----------



## Jocache83

Thinking about getting a cyclocross frame. For the people who bought the frame, how are they holding up out in the trails or in races?


thanks,
Joel


----------



## Merc

a.dallaserra said:


> Update! New stem, new bars, 7.75KG (decals for extra speed :blush2
> View attachment 277174


a.dallaaerra, real nice "S-WORKS" decal you got there.


----------



## Subspd

TT Max said:


> Hi...I've been looking at Chinese frames for a few months now....there are very few pictures of these frames built up...I know ms6073 has posted his bike...love it!
> Here is a more recent one from one of our VeloBuild brothers Prodrive17...
> the Dengfu FM059 is by far,is one of the nices CX frames out there...all internal cables
> Check it out...


Any issues with the rear hub spacing. The disc wheels I was going to use are 130mm but I read that many are using 135mm hubs? Which would work better?


----------



## a.dallaserra

*Spacing*



Subspd said:


> Any issues with the rear hub spacing. The disc wheels I was going to use are 130mm but I read that many are using 135mm hubs? Which would work better?


Hey Subspd,

I have 135mm as that is what the FM059 is built for. Of course it would flex to allow a 130mm...but that isn't as fab an idea as getting 135mm hubs. On mine (which are 135mm), it drops in with about 0.5mm clearance. So 130 would not sit as well and strain the QRs/Frame angle somewhat. Unless you already have a sweet 130 wheelset, go for building a 135!


----------



## larsf

I tried to order from Miracle (Store No.409931) through AliExpress, and got nothing but a headache after waiting for 1.5 months. They never shipped anything and string you along-- they are scammers. FYI, the feedback on Aliexpress is bogus since you can only post feedback if you accept your order. Caveat emptor...


----------



## TT Max

Here is the latest offering from Hongfu.....FM089 Cyclocross disc..
View attachment 280765
View attachment 280766


----------



## Birddog

I'm seriously considering the DengFu FM059 disc brake frame and fork but can't find any info on standover height for various sizes. Does anybody know of a Geo chart that includes standover or could those of you who have purchased this frame tell us what your standover is?
There has been some good info on this thread BTW thanks to all who have contributed.


----------



## ZachUA

Birddog said:


> I'm seriously considering the DengFu FM059 disc brake frame and fork but can't find any info on standover height for various sizes. Does anybody know of a Geo chart that includes standover or could those of you who have purchased this frame tell us what your standover is?
> There has been some good info on this thread BTW thanks to all who have contributed.


Interested to know this also.


----------



## adam_mac84

Birddog said:


> I'm seriously considering the DengFu FM059 disc brake frame and fork but can't find any info on standover height for various sizes. Does anybody know of a Geo chart that includes standover or could those of you who have purchased this frame tell us what your standover is?
> There has been some good info on this thread BTW thanks to all who have contributed.


they have a pretty high BB, so they will ride a bit taller in the TT. The thing to remember, just like sizing a ridley is you need to look at the cockpit length/height... i.e. stack/reach. Got my wife dialed into a perfect fit, but standover is tight (it's deconstructed right now, so can't measure her frame)... Anyhow, you shouldn't be straddling the bike too often.

I know not what you were looking for, but I myself am a ridley rider, and have heard the 'size down' myth too many times... just figure out if the cockpit fits you


----------



## a.dallaserra

ZachUA said:


> Interested to know this also.


I've got the 54cm frame (medium) and that's approximately 80cm (+/- 5mm) standover height (ground to middle of top tube). Bear in mind I have 23mm tyres, so cyclocross tyres would raise it slightly.


----------



## a.dallaserra

Birddog said:


> I'm seriously considering the DengFu FM059 disc brake frame and fork but can't find any info on standover height for various sizes. Does anybody know of a Geo chart that includes standover or could those of you who have purchased this frame tell us what your standover is?
> There has been some good info on this thread BTW thanks to all who have contributed.


I've got the 54cm frame (medium) and that's approximately 80cm (+/- 5mm) standover height (ground to middle of top tube). Bear in mind I have 23mm tyres, so cyclocross tyres would raise it slightly.


----------



## ZachUA

a.dallaserra said:


> I've got the 54cm frame (medium) and that's approximately 80cm (+/- 5mm) standover height (ground to middle of top tube). Bear in mind I have 23mm tyres, so cyclocross tyres would raise it slightly.


how tall are you and what inseam? I stood over a 54 bike today and it seemed too small for me. bike shop says I should ride a 56 but 80cm is real close to my inseam.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

I'm thinking about buying one of these frames and putting a straight bar on. Mostly because I want to put on full hydros. I have all the parts I need from previous builds. But, also because I don't really find drops very comfortable. Then I'm going to make it a 1x9 with some Conti GP4000 road tires. My question is, how would using a straight bar affect which size I should buy?


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> I'm thinking about buying one of these frames and putting a straight bar on. Mostly because I want to put on full hydros. I have all the parts I need from previous builds. But, also because I don't really find drops very comfortable. Then I'm going to make it a 1x9 with some Conti GP4000 road tires. My question is, how would using a straight bar affect which size I should buy?


PS - I would go with drops if I could find one that had enough room at each side of the 31.8mm stem, to fit Hayes Stroker Trail brakes.


----------



## a.dallaserra

ZachUA said:


> how tall are you and what inseam? I stood over a 54 bike today and it seemed too small for me. bike shop says I should ride a 56 but 80cm is real close to my inseam.


I'm 5ft10 and it's definitely the right size for me - I've got a 90mm stem too, so if there were any issues, you could increase it to 100/110mm. It's a 54cm as it's a cyclocross which means the top tube is a little shorter based on the slant of the front fork... if I rode a pure road frame, it'd most likely be 56cm


----------



## mrcreosote

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> PS - I would go with drops if I could find one that had enough room at each side of the 31.8mm stem, to fit Hayes Stroker Trail brakes.


I have these

Ritchey Logic

I have TRP RL951 top-mount brake levers, and still have enough room to mount a light and a Horn-it


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

mrcreosote said:


> I have these
> 
> Ritchey Logic
> 
> I have TRP RL951 top-mount brake levers, and still have enough room to mount a light and a Horn-it


Your link doesn't take me to a handle bar. But Hayes hydros have a split perch for like 25.4 bars. So I need a bar that tapers down pretty quickly from the 31.8 stem bulge, like the WCS Curve bar.


----------



## mrcreosote

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> Your link doesn't take me to a handle bar. But Hayes hydros have a split perch for like 25.4 bars. So I need a bar that tapers down pretty quickly from the 31.8 stem bulge, like the WCS Curve bar.


Ahh. Misunderstood the requirement. Why not just get a 25.4 or 26.0 bar?


----------



## Birddog

a.dallaserra said:


> I've got the 54cm frame (medium) and that's approximately 80cm (+/- 5mm) standover height (ground to middle of top tube). Bear in mind I have 23mm tyres, so cyclocross tyres would raise it slightly.


That's somewhat helpful. Since I don't know the diameter of the TT a "middle" measurement doesn't tell me what I want to know. I want standover, it's helpful to know what tires were on the frame as well because there is quite a difference between 23's and 32's. Standover is usually measured from ground to top of TT midway between HT and ST

I have 2 CX bikes and the 55 cm Airborne I purchased last year has just about perfect cockpit measurements but the standover (83 with 32's) is ridiculous. Add to that the top cabling which is another mm. If it were a sloper it might have worked. With bike shoes the TT is snug with my crotch and I don't like it. I want a cm or two clearance. The internal cabling of the Chiclocross frames would also help.


----------



## mrcreosote

Birddog said:


> I'm seriously considering the DengFu FM059 disc brake frame and fork but can't find any info on standover height for various sizes. Does anybody know of a Geo chart that includes standover or could those of you who have purchased this frame tell us what your standover is?
> There has been some good info on this thread BTW thanks to all who have contributed.


56cm fm058 on 32mm tires. Standover at the b/b is 81cm


----------



## Local Hero

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> I'm thinking about buying one of these frames and putting a straight bar on. Mostly because I want to put on full hydros. I have all the parts I need from previous builds. But, also because I don't really find drops very comfortable. Then I'm going to make it a 1x9 with some Conti GP4000 road tires. My question is, how would using a straight bar affect which size I should buy?


I rode a 54 tarmac and went with a slightly shorter (upturned) stem on my 54 crux. 

1X10.


----------



## vortechcoupe

Face palm..... when he said "middle" he means middle, between the head tube and seat tube....or stand over midway between head tube and seat tube. Sounds like it's too tall for you anyway since cross tires would raise it up to about the same as your airborne.



Birddog said:


> That's somewhat helpful. Since I don't know the diameter of the TT a "middle" measurement doesn't tell me what I want to know. I want standover, it's helpful to know what tires were on the frame as well because there is quite a difference between 23's and 32's. Standover is usually measured from ground to top of TT midway between HT and ST
> 
> I have 2 CX bikes and the 55 cm Airborne I purchased last year has just about perfect cockpit measurements but the standover (83 with 32's) is ridiculous. Add to that the top cabling which is another mm. If it were a sloper it might have worked. With bike shoes the TT is snug with my crotch and I don't like it. I want a cm or two clearance. The internal cabling of the Chiclocross frames would also help.


----------



## Birddog

vortechcoupe said:


> Face palm..... when he said "middle" he means middle, between the head tube and seat tube....or stand over midway between head tube and seat tube. Sounds like it's too tall for you anyway since cross tires would raise it up to about the same as your airborne.


That might have been what he meant, but that is not what he wrote.



> I've got the 54cm frame (medium) and that's approximately 80cm (+/- 5mm) standover height (ground to middle of top tube). Bear in mind I have 23mm tyres, so cyclocross tyres would raise it slightly.


The difference in height between 23mm tires and 32mm CX tires is between 1.5 and 2.0 CMs according to my measurements. There is variance between brands. What I need is an accurate measurement for the standover. You may be correct in thinking that a 54 is too large but a 52 is too small. I could probably handle a standover of 80 with CX tires, maybe even 80.5 but I'd rather it was closer to 79.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

Christopher636 said:


> Right now the On One Dirty Disco is on sale for $550 + S/H.


Where? I think I might pick one up.


----------



## way2go

Andy STi said:


> I went through Miracle bikes to get my frame, MC105. Everything went very well. I've had it for a few weeks and need to start building it up. I think I have everything for it now. Frame is 1200gms for a 58cm and the fork is 450 uncut.


Nice frame. I am interested in ordering one for myself. How much did it cost including shipment?


----------



## Love Commander

So are all of these medium-to-small size frames? I'm trying to find something w/ a 59 cm effective top tube but the largest I can find is somewhere in the range of 56 to 57. Am I just not looking hard enough?


----------



## Birddog

Love Commander said:


> So are all of these medium-to-small size frames? I'm trying to find something w/ a 59 cm effective top tube but the largest I can find is somewhere in the range of 56 to 57. Am I just not looking hard enough?


Try looking here: Wholesale carbon cyclocross - Buy Low Price carbon cyclocross Lots on Aliexpress.com
The Fuji knockoffs should work but at least a couple sites say they are not available in the US while other sites make no mention. I'm not sure what is up with that.


----------



## mrcreosote

Love Commander said:


> So are all of these medium-to-small size frames? I'm trying to find something w/ a 59 cm effective top tube but the largest I can find is somewhere in the range of 56 to 57. Am I just not looking hard enough?


Don't just look at the EFF TT number. Reach (the distance of the top of the head tube in front of the B/B) is just as important, if not more so. I ride a 57cm Road frame, with a 57cm top tube. The 56cm FM058, has an EFF TT of 56.3 cm, but the stack and reach figures were almost exactly the same. The 58cm FM058 has a EFF TT of 57.9cm, but you may find the reach is closer to what you want, plus you can always add longer stem. So you need to get the full geometry, and work out the stack and reach, and compare to your current bike if you have one.


----------



## TT Max

sorry I double posted..


----------



## TT Max

Here are the early stages of My FM059 Disc Build...
View attachment 282626

View attachment 282627


----------



## traitorhound

Here is my fm 059 that I just finished. Well almost. Hy/Rd install today. The road bb7 will go to my steel CX commuter. Built up rather easily. The rear wheel (yoeleo 50mm clincher) took a bit to get true building up but other than that it's been great. 

Have about 50 miles on it so far and it's been pretty smooth.

1x10 rival


----------



## TT Max

Here is the early stages of My FM059..I'm still waiting on parts...
View attachment 282686

View attachment 282687


----------



## Birddog

The HyRd's look pretty neat. I'm anxious to hear your feedback on set up and performance. Is this gonna be a cross rig or a gravel grinder or both? Keep us posted please.


----------



## ms6073

Ooh, nice. Curious to know where the two previous posters acquired their brakes as I have yet to see an online source in the US and I am wanting a couple sets of the TRP Spyre.


----------



## traitorhound

ms6073 said:


> Ooh, nice. Curious to know where the two previous posters acquired their brakes as I have yet to see an online source in the US and I am wanting a couple sets of the TRP Spyre.


I haven't seen the spyre in stock anywhere yet but I picked up the hyrd for $105 shipped per side from ebikestop in Colorado. Cheapest place anywhere (and in stock). I ordered as soon as they sent me the sick notification email. Trp direct still didn't even have stock when I was trying to place the order.

The 105 price made it a no brainer vs the spyre.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

TT Max said:


> Here is the early stages of My FM059..I'm still waiting on parts...
> View attachment 282686
> 
> View attachment 282687


Thats nice! Do you know if you can run full hydro lines in the rear with that frame?


----------



## traitorhound

I dunno what the diameter of the hydro lines are but the frame is drilled to run full length housing. I'm running full length housing to my hyrd setup. When I was first building up the frame that was a nice surprise as I put housing in the hole expecting to hit a cable stop but it just kept going right through the other side.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

traitorhound said:


> I dunno what the diameter of the hydro lines are but the frame is drilled to run full length housing. I'm running full length housing to my hyrd setup. When I was first building up the frame that was a nice surprise as I put housing in the hole expecting to hit a cable stop but it just kept going right through the other side.


Thanks. Hydro lines are the same size as brake cable housing, so that will work.


----------



## TT Max

ms6073 said:


> Ooh, nice. Curious to know where the two previous posters acquired their brakes as I have yet to see an online source in the US and I am wanting a couple sets of the TRP Spyre.


I bought the brakes right from TRP Brakes/Tektro USA
...their stock is going down as we speak...everyone is buying


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

I don't know which one to buy. They are all starting to look the same.


----------



## spondella

are you still after a Mountain Cycle Moho Road?


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

spondella said:


> are you still after a Mountain Cycle Moho Road?


i couldn't find one, so I'm going to build one of these with road tires.


----------



## ms6073

traitorhound said:


> When I was first building up the frame that was a nice surprise as I put housing in the hole expecting to hit a cable stop but it just kept going right through the other side.


Well that is nice to know - our frames FM059 frames have internal cable stops which prevent full length housing and I actually had to drill out the rear a bit for the liner as I prefer Gore Ride-On Pro brake cables.


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

ms6073 said:


> Well that is nice to know - our frames FM059 frames have internal cable stops which prevent full length housing and I actually had to drill out the rear a bit for the liner as I prefer Gore Ride-On Pro brake cables.


So some FM059s can run full housing and some can't? Traiorhound said his could run full housing on the rear.


----------



## traitorhound

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> So some FM059s can run full housing and some can't? Traiorhound said his could run full housing on the rear.


My fm059 definitely allows full brake housing runs. The derailleur side has stops. I still was able to run housing liner inside the rear derailleur routing.

Well if that other one can't then it looks like crapshoot from dengfu.


----------



## ms6073

We were 'early adopters' as we got our FM059's the first week in August last year, and were among the first frames produced from the mold so I suspect there has been some running changes to address end user issues. For example when I built up our bikes, I reported to DengFu that the disc rotor was binding on the lower post mount on the inside of the fork for which I had to carefully Dremel paint/carbon to resolve. Also, our frames have bosses for only a single a bottle cage on the down tube yet I think those with later production framesets have both down tube and seat tube bottle cage bosses. I had issues getting the cable housing in the rear and had to clean it up with the Dremel with a flex shaft attachment so pretty pretty sure that if I wanted to run full-length brake cable housing, I could completely drill out the internal stops. The issue would be the position/angle of the front and rear stops pose a challenge as other parts of the frame inhibits use of a standard cordless drill.


----------



## megl

WTFcyclist said:


> Thanks! I've found it!
> http://www.bev-intl.com/e-catalog/09/p1.htm


Does anyone know the geometry of the BVC-7007?

The AC024 (Dirty Disco) seems to fit me quite good, but alle the v-brake frames seems too small. Is there at v-brake version of the Dirty Disco geometry?


----------



## ozzybmx

First post.

Ive been researching these as im currently riding a dropbar SS 29er and need some gears. What kind of prices and where is everyone buying the FM059's from ?

Thanks


----------



## TT Max

Just finished applying My graphics today...clearcoat will be next...
View attachment 283184

View attachment 283185


----------



## Mountain Cycle Shawn

TT Max said:


> Just finished applying My graphics today...clearcoat will be next...


You could put a vinyl clear over them. That way if they get messed up you can peel everything off and start over.


----------



## TT Max

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> You could put a vinyl clear over them. That way if they get messed up you can peel everything off and start over.


I will using permanent Rubberized clear...I've used it on guns...great for stone chipping


----------



## a.dallaserra

Nice work pal!

I'm selling my frame and fork if anyone is interested... tax is already paid so that's going to work out a chunk cheaper. Message me if interested!

I've gotten only into pure road now and have purchased an FR320. I have to say I think the FM059 is easily one of the best cyclocross frames out there though!!


----------



## dmcgoy

So, are any of these guys making a disc frame with eyelets/etc. for fenders? My "CX" bike spends most of the year as a commuter, so the fenders are pretty important.


----------



## dmcgoy

dmcgoy said:


> So, are any of these guys making a disc frame with eyelets/etc. for fenders? My "CX" bike spends most of the year as a commuter, so the fenders are pretty important.


Okay, I think I found one......any one know anything about this frame?
Aliexpress.com : Buy Full Carbon 3K Matt Cyclocross cross Bike Frame + Fork, Alloy headset 51cm, 53cm, 55cm, 57cm from Reliable Full Carbon suppliers on HK Flyxii Co., Limited

I've emailed them to try and get better photos of the other fender/rack attachment points. It definitely has eyelets. Not sure if it has any of the other necessary fender attachment hardware.


----------



## ms6073

No experience but I think you will also find that frame listed on Ebay as the FR-602.


----------



## dmcgoy

ms6073 said:


> No experience but I think you will also find that frame listed on Ebay as the FR-602.


Ah, thanks. I was searching with "FR-601" with little luck. It's maddening how the half-dozen different sellers of this frame all provide the same-ish low resolution side-view.


----------



## dmcgoy

dmcgoy said:


> Ah, thanks. I was searching with "FR-601" with little luck. It's maddening how the half-dozen different sellers of this frame all provide the same-ish low resolution side-view.


A few different eBay/Aliexpress vendors claim that there's no hardware for fenders, despite what the photos suggest. Anyone know who makes the Foundry Auger disc frame? The Foundry Auger - Cross Utility - Disc Brake | Foundry Cycles 

Foundry Cycles is charging an insane $1800 for the frameset.


----------



## ms6073

dmcgoy said:


> Anyone know who makes the Foundry Auger disc frame? The Foundry Auger - Cross Utility - Disc Brake | Foundry Cycles


Foundry's cross frames are more than likely made by Axman, a Taiwanese OEM which supplies a variety of frames for a number of brands such as Focus Bikes and does not appear to sell direct.


----------



## TT Max

I finely finished My FM059 build today...and took the bike for a shake down ride....awesome brakes...man!
https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/005_zps602fa891.jpg
https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/010_zpsbb40d704.jpg


----------



## Merc

TT Max said:


> I finely finished My FM059 build today...and took the bike for a shake down ride....awesome brakes...man!
> https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/005_zps602fa891.jpg
> https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/010_zpsbb40d704.jpg


TT Max,
Good looking bike. Where did you get your disc brake wheels from?


----------



## the mayor

TT Max said:


> I finely finished My FM059 build today...and took the bike for a shake down ride....awesome brakes...man!
> https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/005_zps602fa891.jpg
> https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/010_zpsbb40d704.jpg


I bet they are with those rotors...
Nice build


----------



## TT Max

the mayor said:


> I bet they are with those rotors...
> Nice build


Thanks for help with the disc brakes Major....Us old Crossers, are just getting to know, the new technology...I owe you one!


----------



## the mayor

TT Max said:


> Thanks for help with the disc brakes Major....Us old Crossers, are just getting to know, the new technology...I owe you one!


You were smart enough to know to face the posts....that's a good start.
I really wanted to grab one of these frames,,,,but my Ridley has a 140 rear ( yes...I could space it to 160) and I don't want 2 different wheel set ups


----------



## TT Max

There is only one company offshore I buy wheels from.....FarSports


----------



## ZachUA

mattsavage said:


> I raced the FM058 last year and will be this year. I'm 200# and hammer the crap out of it but it doesn't miss a beat. This year I'm building the China direct model of the Dirty Disco from Ican Sports. I'm building it up as a SS with Beer components eccentric BB, since it has a BB30. I ordered it with no cable guides and had Ruckus Components install internal routing. This thing is wicked beefy and totally overbuilt, yet really light at 1080 grams for a 58cm.
> 
> Their new disc model is Di2 compatible... 2012ican New Carbon Cyclocross Framesp-ac098 - Buy 2012ican New Carbon Cyclocross Framesp-ac098,Super Light Cyclocross Frame,Carbon Fiber Frame Product on Alibaba.com


Is this link to the dirty disco model that is also di2 or is this a diff frame? Where the dt and tt meet the headtube it looks a little diff than the picture you posted later on first page (bike with pink tape). That's the bike I want to build.  The link you posted below that one isn't working.


----------



## tazunemono

Merc said:


> TT Max,
> Good looking bike. Where did you get your disc brake wheels from?


daaamn that's nice ... would look better with some dirt tho


----------



## TT Max

Thanks Guys...the mud will be here soon...looking forward to it!


https://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff53/X7Bucko/007crop_zps5f85f892.jpg


----------



## BikeInCanada

dmcgoy said:


> Okay, I think I found one......any one know anything about this frame?
> Aliexpress.com : Buy Full Carbon 3K Matt Cyclocross cross Bike Frame + Fork, Alloy headset 51cm, 53cm, 55cm, 57cm from Reliable Full Carbon suppliers on HK Flyxii Co., Limited
> 
> I've emailed them to try and get better photos of the other fender/rack attachment points. It definitely has eyelets. Not sure if it has any of the other necessary fender attachment hardware.


Hey ... you ever get an answer / pics from them on this frame?

Im sorta looking at the same thing. A CX frame with hardware for a rack and fenders.


----------



## dmcgoy

BikeInCanada said:


> Hey ... you ever get an answer / pics from them on this frame?
> 
> Im sorta looking at the same thing. A CX frame with hardware for a rack and fenders.


I did. Not useful. They just said "no fenders." But all of the pictures clearly show eyelets on the frame and fork. No interest in sending better photos. Despite this I'm still probably going to buy one of these frames. My current cx canti bike has serious stopping problems whenever it gets wet. I'll post back here if I ever get my hands on one. I am very certain that this frame has no mounting spots for a rack, though. You could (if you are brave) drill into the frame and use a rivnut tool to install some attachment spots.


----------



## ac/bc

General question - do any of these Chinese companies do custom sizing?


----------



## dmcgoy

ac/bc said:


> General question - do any of these Chinese companies do custom sizing?


Can't imagine how. These frames are made from a mold. I understand that the molds are VERY expensive to make. Which is why there aren't that many sizes. Unlike, say, a Soma or Surly chinese-made steel frame.


----------



## mrcreosote

WTF!!!!
YISHUNBIKE Disk Brake CX03 Carbon Cyclocross Frame-NEW ARRIVALS [CX03]


----------



## a.dallaserra

FYI to all those who may have seen my previous build...

I've done this with my FM059:









And this is my new FR-320:









FM059 cyclocross (made single speed commuter) is 7.8kg as is currently set up and the FR-320 road racing with HYRD Discs is 7.4kg.

Both are awesome!


----------



## sanrensho

Awesome build a.dallaserra.

Would love to see photos of the tire gap at the fork and chainstays, if you happen to have any.


----------



## a.dallaserra

*HyRds...*

Amazing performance FYI. I have the Black ones on 140mm alligator rotors and even at 140mm, they are a million times sharper and have better modulation than the BB7s I used to run. Really brilliant!



Birddog said:


> The HyRd's look pretty neat. I'm anxious to hear your feedback on set up and performance. Is this gonna be a cross rig or a gravel grinder or both? Keep us posted please.


----------



## a.dallaserra

Thanks Pal! Sure thing, here are some photos





























sanrensho said:


> Awesome build a.dallaserra.
> 
> Would love to see photos of the tire gap at the fork and chainstays, if you happen to have any.


----------



## ms6073

dmcgoy said:


> I did. Not useful. They just said "no fenders." But all of the pictures clearly show eyelets on the frame and fork.


I am pretty certain the frame in the link is the FR-602 which is currently offered by several sellers with a number of better images on Ebay. I am unsure what the eyelets would be used for other than fenders, and looking closely at a couple of the auctions, it looks to me as if the eyelets are alloy fixtures that have been bonded and coated with either a thin layer of carbon/epoxy but no telling how strong they would be for racks/paniers.


----------



## ms6073

mrcreosote said:


>


I get the impression the intent was to create a 'shelf' for shouldering but seems to me like there was a lot lost in translation.


----------



## dmcgoy

ms6073 said:


> I am pretty certain the frame in the link is the FR-602 which is currently offered by several sellers with a number of better images on Ebay. I am unsure what the eyelets would be used for other than fenders, and looking closely at a couple of the auctions, it looks to me as if the eyelets are alloy fixtures that have been bonded and coated with either a thin layer of carbon/epoxy but no telling how strong they would be for racks/paniers.


I agree. It's possible they just put eyelets in, but have nothing at the seat or chainstay to attach fenders to. If that's true, then you would have to either epoxy something on or drill through the frame and install a rivnut. Anyways, I bought the frame (matte, bsa (bb30 out of stock), 53cm) and it's supposedly on it's way to me now. I'll post better pictures when it shows up. I'm hoping that at least the eyelets are present on the frame/fork. My worry is that everyone is using the same prototype frame to take their pictures.......


----------



## mattsavage

dmcgoy said:


> I did. Not useful. They just said "no fenders." But all of the pictures clearly show eyelets on the frame and fork. No interest in sending better photos. Despite this I'm still probably going to buy one of these frames. My current cx canti bike has serious stopping problems whenever it gets wet. I'll post back here if I ever get my hands on one. I am very certain that this frame has no mounting spots for a rack, though. You could (if you are brave) drill into the frame and use a rivnut tool to install some attachment spots.


I've seen this frame in person... It does have eyelets on the stays and fork, but the fork crown and upper seatstay is not drilled. probably cause it's a disc only frame. They drill the canti version.


----------



## mattsavage

ZachUA said:


> Is this link to the dirty disco model that is also di2 or is this a diff frame? Where the dt and tt meet the headtube it looks a little diff than the picture you posted later on first page (bike with pink tape). That's the bike I want to build.  The link you posted below that one isn't working.


That link works for me... yes, newer Di2 compatible model.


----------



## sanrensho

Oooh. Thanks to your photos, I just noticed there is no room for fenders. Back to the drawing board for me.



a.dallaserra said:


> Thanks Pal! Sure thing, here are some photos
> 
> View attachment 285846
> View attachment 285847
> View attachment 285848
> View attachment 285849


----------



## mattsavage

sanrensho said:


> Oooh. Thanks to your photos, I just noticed there is no room for fenders. Back to the drawing board for me.


No room for fenders or even 28c tires... Maybe not even 25c...


----------



## dmcgoy

mattsavage said:


> I've seen this frame in person... It does have eyelets on the stays and fork, but the fork crown and upper seatstay is not drilled. probably cause it's a disc only frame. They drill the canti version.


Thanks. That's a bummer about drilling out the crown and seatstay. I'll start making plans on getting some high strength epoxy.......maybe epoxy a short bolt to the backside of the fork crown?


----------



## sanrensho

Ouch. Really want to get away from overbuilt CX frames (currently have a Dirty Disco), but need room for 25c/27c tires and fenders for use as a winter bike.

Any suggestions Matt (or anyone)? Thanks.



mattsavage said:


> No room for fenders or even 28c tires... Maybe not even 25c...


----------



## mattsavage

According to Crud, if you have 4mm of space you can fit their Road Racer 2 fenders on. I had similar clearance behind the seattube and I just shaved off the top of the fender back there around the seat tube on my FM015.


----------



## sanrensho

mattsavage said:


> According to Crud, if you have 4mm of space you can fit their Road Racer 2 fenders on. I had similar clearance behind the seattube and I just shaved off the top of the fender back there around the seat tube on my FM015.


Brilliant, thanks. I would be using Planet Bike fenders, but cutting a window/wide slot into the fenders should work.


----------



## dmcgoy

Got the FR-602 frame in today. Don't have time to do photos now, but I can confirm that it's got ALL of the points to mount fenders. Single eyelets at both the frame and fork. The fork is drilled through at the crown. The frame has threaded nuts at the chain stay and seat stay. Looks about perfect! The 53cm frame weighs about 1.13 kg and the uncut fork weighs 430 g. I am a little confused about a few spots - there's a dimple roughly where the front derailleur clamp would go as well as a hole right below it. There's also a hole in between the bottom set of cage bottle bolts. Maybe for Di2?


----------



## bikeguy0

Yes, Di2. Can you post a picture of the underside of the BB? I am trying to figure out how the cables are routed around the BB.


----------



## dmcgoy

bikeguy0 said:


> Yes, Di2. Can you post a picture of the underside of the BB? I am trying to figure out how the cables are routed around the BB.












































Any other requests? What is going on under the BB? What's the purpose of 1. exposing it and 2. having a bolted guide?


----------



## bikeguy0

It looks to me like the following:
*Front D has internal routing but the housing stops at the frame and the cable runs inside those white tubes to the D.
*Rear D has internal routing and is handled the same as the Front.
*Rear Brake I believe is run the same way.
*It looks like you may have the option of running full length housing for everything if you remove the bolt and carbon guide...maybe....
*It looks you can run full length housing for the rear brake which is the white tube on the bottom in that picture by removing that tube and running the housing the entire way. And could run that one only as full housing.
*It is probably exposed so you can run full housing or if you screwed up and pulled one of those white tubes out you would basically be forever screwed trying to re-fish them around under the bottom bracket again.


----------



## dmcgoy

bikeguy0 said:


> It looks to me like the following:
> *Front D has internal routing but the housing stops at the frame and the cable runs inside those white tubes to the D.
> *Rear D has internal routing and is handled the same as the Front.
> *Rear Brake I believe is run the same way.
> *It looks like you may have the option of running full length housing for everything if you remove the bolt and carbon guide...maybe....
> *It looks you can run full length housing for the rear brake which is the white tube on the bottom in that picture by removing that tube and running the housing the entire way. And could run that one only as full housing.
> *It is probably exposed so you can run full housing or if you screwed up and pulled one of those white tubes out you would basically be forever screwed trying to re-fish them around under the bottom bracket again.


There seem to be cable stops at the derailleur holes. There are NOT cable stops at the brake holes, as far as I can tell. From what I can tell, you can just shove regular brake housing into the frame. I'm not brave enough to remove the tubing and find out for certain.


----------



## bikeguy0

I guess the other option here is that the little white tubes are just there so you can tape them to your housing and cables to pull them through the frame. Kinda like a pull string in an electrical conduit. Look at this link: Carbon disc cross frame. « Singletrack Forum
Same frame and shows how most of the routing goes.


----------



## dmcgoy

The tubes can be used to run cable through.....but I'm not sure how to mesh it up with the cable stops. 

For the brake housing it does make sense to just use the tubes as a pull. And hope it doesn't come loose inside.....


----------



## dmcgoy

dmcgoy said:


> The tubes can be used to run cable through.....but I'm not sure how to mesh it up with the cable stops.
> 
> For the brake housing it does make sense to just use the tubes as a pull. And hope it doesn't come loose inside.....


Now that I've thought about it a little more this makes sense:

1. Run cables through white plastic tubes.
2. Remove tube from rear brake run
3. Run full housing through rear brake run
4. Cut off excess tubing from derailleur runs with cable inside. 
5. Add derailleur housing/stops to bike. 

Step 4 is the only futzy step. How much cable to remove? The bare minimum? Or quite a bit? If I do the bare minimum there's the risk that the cable won't run as smoothly.


----------



## gospastic

I just ordered the FR602 from a_baygoods on ebay. How link did it take to arrive to you?


----------



## dmcgoy

gospastic said:


> I just ordered the FR602 from a_baygoods on ebay. How link did it take to arrive to you?


I ordered mine from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports on Aliexpress. Why take the risk? Because they were the only seller to use EMS. Everyone else was using "China Post." I got my frame in about a week.


----------



## gospastic

Thanks for the info. I saw on the Velobuild forum that a_baygoods is a flyxii eBay account so hopefully mine will come quickly and safely and I'll have something helpful to input to this thread.


----------



## bikeguy0

Okay. The white plastic tubes are just to help you threat your cables when you build the bike. They are supposed to be removed after you have routed your cables. Keep them so when you change cables you can unbolt the cable from the derailluer and then rethread the tube back up the cable so you can then rethread the new cables back down. 
Watch this video on how it's done on some specialized bikes:


----------



## Missbaksel

@dmcgoy, can you let me know how the build goes and how the bike rides! Im planning buying a FR-601 the Vbrake version of your frame


----------



## dmcgoy

Missbaksel said:


> @dmcgoy, can you let me know how the build goes and how the bike rides! Im planning buying a FR-601 the Vbrake version of your frame


Thanks for the video bikeguy0. I'll try and do follow post(s) with the build. Right now I'm stuck because Brandon/BHS sent me a 130mm rear disc hub by accident. I'm pissed I didn't check it earlier, but he doesn't even SELL a 130mm rear disc hub. At least I didn't discover that it was 5mm short after I built the wheels. Apparently the 130mm hub was a prototype that ended up in the wrong bin.

Most of the other parts are coming off my current frame (a PedalForce CX2), which is my current commuter/racer. Since I don't have a backup (road) bike I can't transfer parts until everything is ready.....


----------



## mattsavage

China Post is the same as EMS, same tracking numbers. And a_baygoods is Flyxii's ebay store.

edit: Sorry, looks like someone else already told you this...


----------



## mattsavage

dmcgoy said:


> Got the FR-602 frame in today. Don't have time to do photos now, but I can confirm that it's got ALL of the points to mount fenders. Single eyelets at both the frame and fork. The fork is drilled through at the crown. The frame has threaded nuts at the chain stay and seat stay. Looks about perfect! The 53cm frame weighs about 1.13 kg and the uncut fork weighs 430 g. I am a little confused about a few spots - there's a dimple roughly where the front derailleur clamp would go as well as a hole right below it. There's also a hole in between the bottom set of cage bottle bolts. Maybe for Di2?


That's good to know. The frames I saw must have been samples that weren't drilled at the fork or stays.

That dimple should be below the FD clamp and allows clearance for the FD cage.


----------



## dmcgoy

mattsavage said:


> China Post is the same as EMS, same tracking numbers. And a_baygoods is Flyxii's ebay store.
> 
> edit: Sorry, looks like someone else already told you this...


I thought it was different because on Aliexpress, the EMS "estimated delivery" was 10 days shorter than all of the China Post quotes.....


----------



## mattsavage

dmcgoy said:


> I thought it was different because on Aliexpress, the EMS "estimated delivery" was 10 days shorter than all of the China Post quotes.....


I don't think so... I just bought a few pairs of tubulars off A-baygoods who stated China Post, but I recognized the tracking number format, put it into EMS tracking and it tracked it all the way to my door. Also, it had EMS label and customs forms on the box.


----------



## ms6073

Just got these images along with tracking number for a pair of Xiamen iPlay IP-105-D framesets and expect to have them in hand by next weekend (maybe sooner). Will be swapping drive train from our current FM059s - anyone need a 54 or 56 on the cheap  - and adding TRP Spyre Carbon brakes to the mix and am considering Enve bar, stem, and seatpost to match Enve wheelsets. Interesting to note that the frameset in the images below differs from the companies original images as the frame pictured below no longer has a separate Di2 port on the sides of the downtube. Also, sure would be nice if the brake cable attachment on the fork was set further back or on the inside of the fork blade.


----------



## dmcgoy

Built up the FR602 this morning. Nothing went wrong - except that apparently the frame takes a 160mm rotor, not a 140mm like they claimed. Otherwise it looks pretty good. One annoying detail is that the rear brake cable doesn't fit too tightly into the frame, so the housing tube rattles inside the frame when you hit some rough terrain.


----------



## gospastic

160 rotors front and rear?


----------



## dmcgoy

gospastic said:


> 160 rotors front and rear?


What they claimed: 160mm front/140mm rear 
What I have: 160mm front/160mm rear


----------



## gospastic

Good to know. I was waiting for the frame to get in to order rotors.


----------



## dmcgoy

gospastic said:


> Good to know. I was waiting for the frame to get in to order rotors.


Let us know if your frame is also 160mm....

Three little tips:
1. You'll need a LOT of brake housing, since you need to use full housing from lever to caliper. A generic brake "kit" may not have enough. 
2. If you get the "Neco" headset, they don't give instructions on how to use the plug top. First you remove the top cap and screw. Then you can use a larger allen wrench to tighten the plug in the carbon steerer. Then you can re-attach the top cap and compress down the stack.
3. You need a LOT of force to get the crown race on the fork. I used a 1.5 inch PVC pipe (you'll need to bevel the edges with a dremel/file). Grease the steerer a bit. Even with that and a lot of hammering, there still was about 1mm left.....hopefully that's good enough....


----------



## the mayor

dmcgoy said:


> What they claimed: 160mm front/140mm rear
> What I have: 160mm front/160mm rear


Every Chinese frame I have seen takes 160 rotors ( or larger with spacers)


----------



## ms6073

Ditto. Our FM-059 frames are post mount for 160mm rotors and the only way to run smaller rotors would be to face quite a bit of material off but since the post mounts are threaded alloy headers molded into the carbon post, that is really not an option.


----------



## the mayor

ms6073 said:


> Ditto. Our FM-059 frames are post mount for 160mm rotors and the only way to run smaller rotors would be to face quite a bit of material off but since the post mounts are threaded alloy headers molded into the carbon post, that is really not an option.


You can not face the mounting areas down because of the insert and the amount you would have to remove.
I have seen someone do away with the conical washer set up on Avid brakes to use a 140 rotor.....but it's not the ideal set up.


----------



## ZachUA

a.dallaserra said:


> FYI to all those who may have seen my previous build...
> 
> I've done this with my FM059:
> 
> View attachment 285836
> 
> 
> And this is my new FR-320:
> 
> View attachment 285837
> 
> 
> FM059 cyclocross (made single speed commuter) is 7.8kg as is currently set up and the FR-320 road racing with HYRD Discs is 7.4kg.
> 
> Both are awesome!


Pretty bikes! Man I'm diggin that 320. Is that a unique frame or is the mold similar to a big name frame? The top tube reminds me of my 2010 Specialized Tarmac that I sold and now regret!


----------



## gospastic

Just got my FR-602. They forgot to include the headset. No steerer tube expander plug either. Kind of annoying.


----------



## gospastic

Got it all built up. It does take 160 rotors front and rear, size 51. I don't have mount at the seat stay bridge for fenders, but seem to have all other mounting points. The internal routing was a pain but should be easier next time around. My frame was right on target weight wise. Full build comes in at 16.5 lbs with clinchers.


----------



## dmcgoy

gospastic said:


> Got it all built up. It does take 160 rotors front and rear, size 51. I don't have mount at the seat stay bridge for fenders, but seem to have all other mounting points. The internal routing was a pain but should be easier next time around. My frame was right on target weight wise. Full build comes in at 16.5 lbs with clinchers.


Cool. My build is hovering around 18 pounds. One thing I'm not too pleased about is the slow steering. It takes a lot more "input" to initiate a turn. Which makes it better for commuting, since it's far more stable at high speeds. But will be trickier for cross racing. The head tube angle on my frame is supposed to be 70.5. Most race CX frames have an angle of 71.5-72 degrees.


----------



## mattsavage

gospastic said:


> Just got my FR-602. They forgot to include the headset. No steerer tube expander plug either. Kind of annoying.


The plug is in the headset box... That you didn't get... 

I'd double check your packaging if you haven't already, sometimes it's in an envelope taped to the side or bottom of the box. I even found one in the BB behind the plastic covers...


----------



## gospastic

mattsavage said:


> The plug is in the headset box... That you didn't get...
> 
> I'd double check your packaging if you haven't already, sometimes it's in an envelope taped to the side or bottom of the box. I even found one in the BB behind the plastic covers...


I triple checked, nowhere to be found. They acknowledged and are sending them out. Luckily I had a headset and plug from a frame that wasn't being used that was compatible so that I can ride the bike in the meantime.

I took it out on some local trails this weekend and am really pleased with how it rides. It was mostly wide open hardpack and gravel but also did some single track as well. I thought that maybe the 70 degree head tube angle would feel weird but I had no issues with it.


----------



## mattsavage

dmcgoy said:


> What they claimed: 160mm front/140mm rear
> What I have: 160mm front/160mm rear


160 will give you better modulation and power with less effort... Easier to maintain traction when braking. You'd never notice the weight penalty.


----------



## dmcgoy

mattsavage said:


> 160 will give you better modulation and power with less effort... Easier to maintain traction when braking. You'd never notice the weight penalty.


I agree. I'm only peeved because now I have a 140mm rotor I can't use.


----------



## petepeterson

mattsavage said:


> Here's mine, finally got it built up and raced it today.


Really nice build here. 

What model is your frame from ICAN? The link you originally posted is broken. It looks like a SP-AC024 to me but do you mind clarifying for us? I am building up a cross rig for racing and training this winter and love the lines on your frame. 

Cheers


----------



## csmith5288

Ive decided to build up a Dengfu FM058, but I'm curious if anyone has any experience with the geometry/fit of the frame. Im 6'1 and Im not sure if I should get the 56 or 58. My road bike is a tarmac and is a 58 which fits me well. Any ideas? Also, should I go with the bb30 or english thread? I plan on racing this bike and don't know which would be better for that. Thanks in advance.


----------



## grahamlynn121

gospastic said:


> Just got my FR-602. They forgot to include the headset. No steerer tube expander plug either. Kind of annoying.


Sorry to hear that.. Can I get a pic of the bike all set up? I'm looking to get one through ebay and would like to see it ahead of time.
Thanks!


----------



## gospastic

Here it is:


----------



## mrcreosote

csmith5288 said:


> Ive decided to build up a Dengfu FM058, but I'm curious if anyone has any experience with the geometry/fit of the frame. Im 6'1 and Im not sure if I should get the 56 or 58. My road bike is a tarmac and is a 58 which fits me well. Any ideas? Also, should I go with the bb30 or english thread? I plan on racing this bike and don't know which would be better for that. Thanks in advance.


Hi

I am 6' but with shortish arms (for my height). I built up my FM058 to use as my commuter. I went for the 56, mainly because the stack and reach were close to my road bike. 58 would have had me too stretched out.


----------



## kk5551

Beautiful bike and great photo!

Give us some details of your frame, supplier, etc. 

Love it!



gospastic said:


> Here it is:


----------



## ZachUA

gospastic said:


> Here it is:


I saw this bike for sale on flyxii site I think. I couldn't find where anyone had built one so I was hesitant to snag one. Any thoughts so far? Where did you get it from? One thing I noticed that looked a little different is the front fork is curved opposite of what you'd normally see.


----------



## a.dallaserra

*Not the FR320*



the mayor said:


> Every Chinese frame I have seen takes 160 rotors ( or larger with spacers)


My FR-320 chinese carbon frame is 140mm front and back... But it's not a cyclocross, so I guess that may change the statement to all chinese cyclocross frames are 160mm. In passing, 140mm with the TRP HyRd set-up is fantastic.


----------



## the mayor

a.dallaserra said:


> My FR-320 chinese carbon frame is 140mm front and back... But it's not a cyclocross, so I guess that may change the statement to all chinese cyclocross frames are 160mm. In passing, 140mm with the TRP HyRd set-up is fantastic.


Maybe. 
But considering that there are several guys on here who mounted up 140s on frames that took a 160 minimum rotor...post up some close ups of your set up.


----------



## a.dallaserra

*Close ups*



the mayor said:


> Maybe.
> But considering that there are several guys on here who mounted up 140s on frames that took a 160 minimum rotor...post up some close ups of your set up.


Here's some close ups of both the BB7 and the TRP HyRds - the 160mm rotors I had 100% would not fit. I threw in some decal work I did too... (The TRPs are 300% better than the BB7s IMO)


----------



## ms6073

ZachUA said:


> One thing I noticed that looked a little different is the front fork is curved opposite of what you'd normally see.


So I am wondering if the slight inverse arc is meant improve stiffness or an error when the mold was made?


----------



## gospastic

ms6073 said:


> So I am wondering if the slight inverse arc is meant improve stiffness or an error when the mold was made?


That would be a big error...how would you get the curve wrong yet the the placement of the post mount and the rake correct? It does look different but rides fine.


----------



## a.dallaserra

gospastic said:


> That would be a big error...how would you get the curve wrong yet the the placement of the post mount and the rake correct? It does look different but rides fine.


A rebellious Chinese stylist went to town on it... maybe?


----------



## the mayor

a.dallaserra said:


> Here's some close ups of both the BB7 and the TRP HyRds - the 160mm rotors I had 100% would not fit. I threw in some decal work I did too... (The TRPs are 300% better than the BB7s IMO)


Nice build. And it looks like you got the right discs on it
How do you like it?
I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.


----------



## ms6073

the mayor said:


> I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.


I just swapped the Shimano CX75's for TRP Spyre SLC's on my Raleigh RXC and I definitely like the setup and feel at the lever but I think the 'braking' feel really depends on the rotors. I have several sets of stock Avid rotors that came with the BB7's which are still in the box and Ashima Air rotors and the nearly 20-gram ligher Ai2 rotors as well as a couple sets of Hope floating rotors (all rotors 160mm) mounted on wheelsets. While I have not yet gotten in more than a couple trips around the block on the TRPs, I find the Ashima Ai2 rotors (62-65 grams) are very grabby and solid braking with the stock TRP pads (Shimano organic?). The Hope floating rotors are also nice but the rivets for the interface are problematic with some calipers and I have not tried them with the TRPs but they worked well with the CX75s with stock organic pads but the CX75 required more tinkering during setup to get as good lever feel compared to the TRPs. Kind of a drift but I am also curious to try the Shimano XT 'Ice Tech' rotors as I have read good things about them and while heavier than the Ai2s, they do look really cool.


----------



## the mayor

ms6073 said:


> I just swapped the Shimano CX75's for TRP Spyre SLC's on my Raleigh RXC and I definitely like the setup and feel at the lever but I think the 'braking' feel really depends on the rotors. I have several sets of stock Avid rotors that came with the BB7's which are still in the box and Ashima Air rotors and the nearly 20-gram ligher Ai2 rotors as well as a couple sets of Hope floating rotors (all rotors 160mm) mounted on wheelsets. While I have not yet gotten in more than a couple trips around the block on the TRPs, I find the Ashima Ai2 rotors (62-65 grams) are very grabby and solid braking with the stock TRP pads (Shimano organic?). The Hope floating rotors are also nice but the rivets for the interface are problematic with some calipers and I have not tried them with the TRPs but they worked well with the CX75s with stock organic pads but the CX75 required more tinkering during setup to get as good lever feel compared to the TRPs. Kind of a drift but I am also curious to try the Shimano XT 'Ice Tech' rotors as I have read good things about them and while heavier than the Ai2s, they do look really cool.


Yes...different rotors can grab differently.
After playing with different rotors
I run the Airotors on all my wheels so I have a consistant feel.


----------



## a.dallaserra

the mayor said:


> Nice build. And it looks like you got the right discs on it
> How do you like it?
> I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.


Nice! Yeah I love the HyRds - the rotors I have are 140mm 62g aligators, after my 160mm Ai2 ashimas did not fit (But I have those on my single speed with the BB7s now). The reason I say 300%, a bit much I agree, is because of the self centering aspect to the hydraulic pads. They don't just push one pad against the rotor and then in turn push the rotor into the static pad. The fluid balances the pads around the rotor and that's what give the smooth modulation in the lever, not so much the rotor. 

Anyway, both are lovely but for sure the HyRd in my opinion is worth the extra weight as it gives a true upgrade from good rim brakes (which the BB7s fail to out-do to the expected degree). But I am very pro discs on road & cyclocross frames, so I give thumbs up to any disc setup - only I was particularly impressed by the HyRd when properly set up (very little play in my levers and no rotor rub).


----------



## a.dallaserra

bikeguy0 said:


> It looks to me like the following:
> *Front D has internal routing but the housing stops at the frame and the cable runs inside those white tubes to the D.
> *Rear D has internal routing and is handled the same as the Front.
> *Rear Brake I believe is run the same way.
> *It looks like you may have the option of running full length housing for everything if you remove the bolt and carbon guide...maybe....
> *It looks you can run full length housing for the rear brake which is the white tube on the bottom in that picture by removing that tube and running the housing the entire way. And could run that one only as full housing.
> *It is probably exposed so you can run full housing or if you screwed up and pulled one of those white tubes out you would basically be forever screwed trying to re-fish them around under the bottom bracket again.



Let me know if you're running into any trouble on this - my FR320 has the exact same setup under the BB. The brake cable housing must (MUST!!!) run all the way. And yes, as mentioned before, you'll need a little extra housing for that compared to what regular kits provide (but the cable length provided is fine to reach all the way).

The reason for this full cable housing routing is simply in response to the advance of hydraulic shifters which are starting to crop up. You evidently need full length housing for hydros...

But seeing as the only available full hydro set-up worth much at the moment is the latest SRAM Red Hydro, available at the cost of a small island, it is a tad frustrating squeezing that cable housing through there. I had to dremmel the BB section a little to avoid pinching the cable housing and snagging the cable a bit as a result. It took a couple of attempts to free up the cable fully.


----------



## ZachUA

Has anyone built up an fm089? I see it listed with hongfu and I also see where yeoleo is selling it (or a frame that looks near identical), but I can't find any info online where someone has built one up. 
Disc Brake Carbon Cyclocross Frameset - Cyclo-Cross Carbon Frame - YouTube


NEW!!! Hongfu carbon cyclocross frame 2012 disc brake FM089, View cyclocross frame, OEM Product Details from Shenzhen Hongfu Sports Goods Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com


----------



## ms6073

ZachUA said:


> Has anyone built up an fm089?


Someone posted in the this thread about 4-5 months back about his FM089. From my point of view, looks a lot like the 2012/13 Ridley X-Fire disc but also somewhat reminiscent of the Dengfu FM059 albeit with some improvements to include taller head tube, brake and shift cable run internally in the top tube, and rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays with an additional attach point than my FM059.


----------



## ZachUA

ms6073 said:


> Looks like a more refined version of my Dengfu FM059 with shift and brake internal cable runs in the top tube and the rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays and an additional attach point than our FM059.


Yeah, it looks like it has a much fatter and/or square shaped downtube.


----------



## ZachUA

ms6073 said:


> Someone posted in the this thread about 4-5 months back about his FM089. From my point of view, I think it looks like a more refined version of my Dengfu FM059 albeit with a taller head tube, brake and shift cable run internally in the top tube and the rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays with an additional attach point than my FM059.


Hmm, pics not showing up for me.


----------



## ms6073

ZachUA said:


> Hmm, pics not showing up for me.


Google is your friend - search Google Images for FM089.

View attachment 286772


----------



## Andy STi

My Miracle Bikes MC105 in size 58. Built up with Force, Rival, Ultegra, Fsa, Deda, and Ritchey parts. Weighs 16.5 with the Boyd wheels. Working great so far. I need to cut the steerer once more though.


----------



## ozzybmx

That's a good looking bike Andy !


----------



## mattsavage

petepeterson said:


> Really nice build here.
> 
> What model is your frame from ICAN? The link you originally posted is broken. It looks like a SP-AC024 to me but do you mind clarifying for us? I am building up a cross rig for racing and training this winter and love the lines on your frame.
> 
> Cheers


Yep, sp-ac024, but I ordered it with no cable guides except on the fork. Carbon CX frameset AC024 DISC frame, View DISC frame, OEM Product Details from Shenzhen Ican Sports Equipment Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com


----------



## ZachUA

for some reason i keep getting thread update emails that quote someone's post saying that the dirty disco is on sale for 550.00 - but when I look at the thread I don't see that post (except someone near the beginning posted it). From what I can tell it is not on sale for 550.00, unless I'm looking at the wrong site (planet-x).


----------



## mattsavage

ZachUA said:


> for some reason i keep getting thread update emails that quote someone's post saying that the dirty disco is on sale for 550.00 - but when I look at the thread I don't see that post (except someone near the beginning posted it). From what I can tell it is not on sale for 550.00, unless I'm looking at the wrong site (planet-x).


It might be getting flagged and removed as spam... I see it for 799 and only in 52cm...


----------



## dmcgoy

*FR602 in commuter mode*

Here's my FR602 (53cm matte) in commuter mode. 









Less than 19 pounds with the fenders on. 









Super lightweight (and super cheap) J&L ebay clamp. Less than 10 grams. Less than $10. Had to turn it backwards to get it to hold the seatpost better.








Seatstay fender mount. Also demonstrating my hack job at keeping the SKS Longboard 45 fenders in one piece. They keep breaking in half. They've broken in three places within a few months of ownership (thought not on this bike). I keep epoxying and bolting them back together. The Planet Bike fenders I owned before these were a lot more durable.








TRP Spyre brakes. Yes, my chain could use some cleaning. Ashima Ai2 rotor. The Ashima rotors are a lot lighter than the stock rotors, but they don't seem as powerful. I've only had them for a couple of days, though. They might need some more bedding in.








I'm not happy how the bolts that attach the housing guides are already rusting. I wonder if I can get these bolts in aluminum. You also can see how the fork/frame gap is a bit big - I couldn't get the headset lockring all the way down.....

I've got a CX race this weekend, so I'll try and get another set of photos in race mode.


----------



## gospastic

I also got some Ai2s. They also don't feel as powerful as the stock ones for me. They are also seem really easy to knock out of true. I guess that's what you sacrifice for 66g rotors.

I've put some more miles on mine and am overall pleased with the frame still. In a cross setting the steering does feel a tad slow but that could also be because I am using a 110mm stem vs 100mm on all my other bikes.


----------



## ZachUA

Dude! Thank you for posting these. Bike looks great. Where did you buy it from? Could you post a build list?


----------



## ZachUA

gospastic said:


> I've put some more miles on mine and am overall pleased with the frame still. In a cross setting the steering does feel a tad slow but that could also be because I am using a 110mm stem vs 100mm on all my other bikes.


Would it be possible to use a different fork, maybe one with a different rake, to achieve a faster steering?


----------



## dmcgoy

ZachUA said:


> Dude! Thank you for posting these. Bike looks great. Where did you buy it from? Could you post a build list?


I bought it from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports Equipment Co., Limited on AliExpress. Took less than a week to get it in my hands. 53cm FR602 frame set, matte finish, GXP bottom bracket

BikeHubStore MTB162/252 hubs, 64 Sapim Laser spokes, brass nipples, H Plus Son Archetype Rims (black), Gatorskin 25c folding tires
SRAM Rival shifters and rear derailleur
SRAM Force GXP crank and front derailleur
KMC X10SL chain, FSA 36/46 chainrings, SRAM PG-1070 11-28 cassette
Look Quartz Pedals
Ritchey Biomax 42cm Handlebars (Deda tape), Ritchey 110mm stem, Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost, J&L clamp, very old Nashbar Race saddle
TRP Spyre Brakes 160/160, Ashima Ai2 rotors
Jagwire housing and cables

I like it a lot - except the steering is too sluggish. I have no idea why they made it with such a slack (70.5 degree) headtube angle. Most CX bikes are 71.5-72 degrees. I have to give a lot more "input" to get the bike to turn. It's a lot more of a carver. Given the slack headtube and generous tire clearance, it may be better suited as a gravel racer than a cx racer.


----------



## ZachUA

dmcgoy said:


> I bought it from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports Equipment Co., Limited on AliExpress. Took less than a week to get it in my hands. 53cm FR602 frame set, matte finish, GXP bottom bracket
> 
> BikeHubStore MTB162/252 hubs, 64 Sapim Laser spokes, brass nipples, H Plus Son Archetype Rims (black), Gatorskin 25c folding tires
> SRAM Rival shifters and rear derailleur
> SRAM Force GXP crank and front derailleur
> KMC X10SL chain, FSA 36/46 chainrings, SRAM PG-1070 11-28 cassette
> Look Quartz Pedals
> Ritchey Biomax 42cm Handlebars (Deda tape), Ritchey 110mm stem, Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost, J&L clamp, very old Nashbar Race saddle
> TRP Spyre Brakes 160/160, Ashima Ai2 rotors
> Jagwire housing and cables
> 
> I like it a lot - except the steering is too sluggish. I have no idea why they made it with such a slack (70.5 degree) headtube angle. Most CX bikes are 71.5-72 degrees. I have to give a lot more "input" to get the bike to turn. It's a lot more of a carver. Given the slack headtube and generous tire clearance, it may be better suited as a gravel racer than a cx racer.


Awesome, thanks! I'm really liking this frame. I would snap one up right now if the headtube wasn't slack. I am wanting to build something up to race cx for the first time. Do you feel like the slackness of the ht is going to cost you much time during a race? Probably won't matter a ton for me (as in I probably won't get any podiums anyway lol) since I've never raced cross before.


----------



## gospastic

Overall, the HT angle is probably not a huge deal. I mean, in my size, a Cannondale SuperX has an ever slacker 69.5 degree headtube. I never hear people complaining about those bikes.


----------



## ms6073

gospastic said:


> They also seem really easy to knock out of true. I guess that's what you sacrifice for 66g rotors.


Ashima's Ai2 rotors are thinner at only 1.8mm thick compared to a 2.0mm thickness for stock rotors from TRP or Avid. My Spyre SL's came stock with Shimano's organic pads so I suspect that a bunch of braking actions on a long downhill or 10-20 sprints with heavy braking might improve things but curious what is the reason the rotors are getting knocked out of true?


----------



## bikeguy0

ms6073 said:


> Ashima's Ai2 rotors are thinner at only 1.8mm thick compared to a 2.0mm thickness for stock rotors from TRP or Avid. My Spyre SL's came stock with Shimano's organic pads so I suspect that a bunch of braking actions on a long downhill or 10-20 sprints with heavy braking might improve things but curious what is the reason the rotors are getting knocked out of true?


The Ai2's are supposed to only be run with semi-metallic pads per Ashima. I'm sure they work with Organic but the cut out design chews through Organic pads from what I understand. If you look at Ashima's website they clearly state semi-metallic only. 
Just FYI.


----------



## ms6073

bikeguy0 said:


> The Ai2's are supposed to only be run with semi-metallic pads per Ashima.


Yes, you are correct and I mispoke as I just perused TRP's specs and for the Spyre they are supplied with "TRP's own ultra-grippy semi-metallic pad that is Shimano compatible allowing for further customization."


----------



## the mayor

bikeguy0 said:


> The Ai2's are supposed to only be run with semi-metallic pads per Ashima. I'm sure they work with Organic but the cut out design chews through Organic pads from what I understand. If you look at Ashima's website they clearly state semi-metallic only.
> Just FYI.


I have used the Airotors for years with both organic and sintered pads.
The only people who think they eat pads are people who have never used them...or have them set up wrong.
I run the organics most of the time....and run sintered when it's REALLY muddy


----------



## Randy99CL

ms6073 said:


> Ashima's Ai2 rotors are thinner at only 1.8mm thick compared to a 2.0mm thickness for stock rotors from TRP or Avid. My Spyre SL's came stock with Shimano's organic pads so I suspect that a bunch of braking actions on a long downhill or 10-20 sprints with heavy braking might improve things but curious what is the reason the rotors are getting knocked out of true?


I can't find the link anymore but there was a report of a guy crashing (and breaking ribs) on a long road downhill with Ashima rotors.
They are light because they're thin with big cutouts but that means they have less material to absorb and then transfer heat to the air.
In that crash article the brakes overheated and failed. The pics showed that the front rotor had gotten so hot it'd turned blue in spots; what does that take, somewhere around 1000 degrees F?

I'm not using the ultralight rotors; I think that's the wrong place to try to save a couple of ounces.

I'm planning to order a set of TRP Spyres; how do those that have them like the rotors? Anyone weigh them?

Let me add that my Avid G2s weigh 91.1g in 140 and 118g for the 160mm.


----------



## mattsavage

Randy99CL said:


> I can't find the link anymore but there was a report of a guy crashing (and breaking ribs) on a long road downhill with Ashima rotors.
> They are light because they're thin with big cutouts but that means they have less material to absorb and then transfer heat to the air.
> In that crash article the brakes overheated and failed. The pics showed that the front rotor had gotten so hot it'd turned blue in spots; what does that take, somewhere around 1000 degrees F?
> 
> I'm not using the ultralight rotors; I think that's the wrong place to try to save a couple of ounces.
> 
> I'm planning to order a set of TRP Spyres; how do those that have them like the rotors? Anyone weigh them?
> 
> Let me add that my Avid G2s weigh 91.1g in 140 and 118g for the 160mm.


He was using hydraulics and the older, smaller 1st gen TRP calipers...

Road Bike Disc Brakes Are Coming, But Will They Work?

Still, I wouldn't be caught dead running those rotors on any brake. Maybe if I had a 16lbs. short track racer, but that's about it...


----------



## dmcgoy

Randy99CL said:


> I can't find the link anymore but there was a report of a guy crashing (and breaking ribs) on a long road downhill with Ashima rotors.
> They are light because they're thin with big cutouts but that means they have less material to absorb and then transfer heat to the air.
> In that crash article the brakes overheated and failed. The pics showed that the front rotor had gotten so hot it'd turned blue in spots; what does that take, somewhere around 1000 degrees F?
> 
> I'm not using the ultralight rotors; I think that's the wrong place to try to save a couple of ounces.
> 
> I'm planning to order a set of TRP Spyres; how do those that have them like the rotors? Anyone weigh them?
> 
> Let me add that my Avid G2s weigh 91.1g in 140 and 118g for the 160mm.


That guy was using the TRP paradox setup (hydraulic) on that crash. He crashed not because the rotors overheated, but because his fluid boiled and he lost pressure. His fluid boiled because he was using a first gen road hydraulic setup and was dragging his brakes (they even tell you not to do this in your car when you are descending) on a steep descent.

The TRP rotors come in about 90g for the 140 and 110g for the 160. I'm using the Ashima Ai2 rotors now with my TRP Spyres (160/160). The Ai2 definitely reduce the stopping power - when cross season is over (since you definitely don't need huge braking power for racing), I'll probably switch the front rotor back to the stock TRP rotor.


----------



## bigdog100

What disc brakesets are you using? I ride mountain but want a rugged roadie, I had a Chinese 29er and was very nice so not afraid of em.


----------



## ozzybmx

Avid bb7 roads with 160mm Ashima ai2's on my On-One dirty disco CX.


----------



## mufa

Hi,
I was lurking around and I wondered how those bikes compare to brand bikes, for example, the current favorite seems to be the specialized crux 2014. how does it compare in term or ride and price in general?


----------



## bigdog100

Never had much luck with Avid's on my MTB, are the mechanical or hydros. If I buy a force buildkit can the levers be converted to accept disc?


----------



## tphongsy

Hey ms6073, where u been this season? have some questions about the chinese carbon wheels you built up. shoot me an email [email protected]


----------



## Triggsie

My wife would like a cyclocross bike and the FR602 has sparked our interest. The only downside is not being able to ride one. Has anyone found a big bike chain cx bike that similar geometry that she could try out first?


----------



## adam_mac84

Anyone have an idea of this open mold? Sounds like it was used by Rocky Mountain for Raphael Gagne's bike, and also for Foundery Auger

Pro Bike Profile: Raphael Gagne?s Rocky Mountain Solo CXR ?Team Edition? | Cyclocross Magazine ? Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos


----------



## mattsavage

mrcreosote said:


> WTF!!!!
> YISHUNBIKE Disk Brake CX03 Carbon Cyclocross Frame-NEW ARRIVALS [CX03]


Looks like a legit bike...


Lisa Jacobs’ Apollo Arctec CX | Cyclocross Magazine – Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos


----------



## slabber

mattsavage said:


> Looks like a legit bike...
> 
> 
> Lisa Jacobs’ Apollo Arctec CX | Cyclocross Magazine – Cyclocross News, Races, Bikes, Photos, Videos


And Yishun no longer has a listing for it - Apollo maybe made the Arctec an exclusive Apollo offering now?


----------



## mitchy_

pieced together my Flyxii FR-602 today.
apart from the fact i thought the fork/frame combo came with a headset but doesn't.. it's all gone to plan.


----------



## rdubbz

[.....


----------



## OnTheRivet

mitchy_ said:


> pieced together my Flyxii FR-602 today.
> apart from the fact i thought the fork/frame combo came with a headset but doesn't.. it's all gone to plan.


I'm curious, with the advent of the 29'er, and 29'er carbon hardtail frames with rigid forks readily available what's the logic of building a cx frame with a flatbar especially considering the geometry drawbacks?


----------



## mitchy_

OnTheRivet said:


> I'm curious, with the advent of the 29'er, and 29'er carbon hardtail frames with rigid forks readily available what's the logic of building a cx frame with a flatbar especially considering the geometry drawbacks?


i wanted a short wheelbase, disc brakes and flat bars. although i have been tossing up the idea of going to drop bars and using the hope V-Twin brakes as well....

29er's are too big/long for what i wanted, and still usually designed around a suspension fork so have a down tube shaped to suit, not as attractive as a CX frame. i previously actually had 700c tyres stuck into a 26" hardtail frame, but it was still too long for what i wanted.
geometry is similar to what i had, and similar to my single speed, so it should suit well.


----------



## RacerOne

gospastic said:


> Got it all built up. It does take 160 rotors front and rear, size 51. I don't have mount at the seat stay bridge for fenders, but seem to have all other mounting points. The internal routing was a pain but should be easier next time around. My frame was right on target weight wise. Full build comes in at 16.5 lbs with clinchers.


I'd love to see photos of this.


----------



## mitchy_

got mine finished and built up at 7.1kg/15.65lb. converting to drop bars as soon as they, and my Hope V-Twin setup arrive. (will go up 1-200 grams)


----------



## LanterneRouge14

*FR-602 Q's*



mitchy_ said:


> got mine finished and built up at 7.1kg/15.65lb. converting to drop bars as soon as they, and my Hope V-Twin setup arrive. (will go up 1-200 grams)





gospastic said:


> Got it all built up... size 51... My frame was right on target weight wise. Full build comes in at 16.5 lbs with clinchers.





gospastic said:


> Here it is:





dmcgoy said:


> Here's my FR602 (53cm matte) in commuter mode.
> 
> View attachment 286949
> 
> 
> Less than 19 pounds with the fenders on.
> 
> I've got a CX race this weekend, so I'll try and get another set of photos in race mode.



mitchy_ 
gospastic 
dmcgoy 

thanks for all the pics and info you all have posted for the FR-602! 

your complete bike weights posted are pretty impressive (~15.7 lbs for m's flatbar bike, ~16.5 lbs for go's 51, ~18 lbs for dmc's 53). 

if you've raced or have ridden these bikes hard, how would you describe the FR-602's overall stiffness or ride feel? 

i've seen spec'd frame weight as low as 880g (51cm frame), so does the frame feel underbuilt and "noodly" when stuffed into corners or riding on techy sections? 

thanks for any additional info, and happy 2014!


----------



## happybiker

I'm after a frame that will take bigger tyres with mud clearance, which of these frames has good clearance? I'm particularly interested in the Fr 602 because of the relaxed angles.


----------



## ms6073

ozzybmx said:


> Avid bb7 roads with 160mm Ashima ai2's on my On-One dirty disco CX.


Kettle Cycles replaced my original carbon rotors with c-processed rotors and carbon pads which I installed on my SS 29er with XTR hydros. A couple rides later and I opted to order more rotors and pads for our cross bikes which are equipped with TRP Spyre SLC mechanical discs - of course TRP recalled the calipers not long after I placed the order. Got the rotors day after Christmas and installed the rotors on our Enve Twenty9 XC clincher wheelsets without issue as these rotors were much more laterally true than the original rotors. Unfortunately when it came time to install the pads, I found the mounting tab to be a good 8-9 mm longer than the stock TRP pads which displaced the mounting hole a similar distance resulting in the pads contacting the rotor further inboard from the outer edge. Although I need to contact Kettle about this, my workaround was use a worn stock TRP pad as a template and used a drill press to drill new holes. So afterwards, the wife's bike brakes really well and is very quiet with no squealing. Although my bike also has good braking, I am experiencing horrendous break squeal even under light braking which is loud enough to wake the dead but sure gets peoples attention when late braking into a corner!


----------



## mattsavage

I have had a pair of original Kettle sicc rotors for over a year now, still haven't installed them. Did you try them out before they were replaced with the new process? I'm wondering how bad they really are? Kettle hasn't responded to any emails lately to see if I can get them replaced...


----------



## ms6073

mattsavage said:


> Did you try them out before they were replaced with the new process?


I opted in during the first week of the Kickstarter campaign hoping for the rotors prior to 2013 Worlds only to receive them the week after returning. The orginal rotors were out of lateral true nearly 2.0mm and I was unable to use them on my CX bike having tried both Avid BB7 SL and Shimano CX75 calipers. I had a bit of a go with my SS 29er with Shimano XTR M985 hydros but neither organic nor metalic pads could produce enough heat to yield anything close to the same level of braking as the Icetec rotors. Sent them back for c-processing not expecting to ever see them again and was surprised 4-weeks later to get them back with carbon pads which I again installed on my 29er with good result. 



> Kettle hasn't responded to any emails lately to see if I can get them replaced...


Communication seems hit or miss with these guys. I visited the Kettle Cycles website earlier today and noted that under the contact us link, there winter hours are listed as 3-10pm!


----------



## mitchy_

LanterneRouge14 said:


> mitchy_
> gospastic
> dmcgoy
> 
> thanks for all the pics and info you all have posted for the FR-602!
> 
> your complete bike weights posted are pretty impressive (~15.7 lbs for m's flatbar bike, ~16.5 lbs for go's 51, ~18 lbs for dmc's 53).
> 
> if you've raced or have ridden these bikes hard, how would you describe the FR-602's overall stiffness or ride feel?
> 
> i've seen spec'd frame weight as low as 880g (51cm frame), so does the frame feel underbuilt and "noodly" when stuffed into corners or riding on techy sections?
> 
> thanks for any additional info, and happy 2014!


definately not noodly. mines a 53cm frame, although i didn't weigh the frame only, it feels quite solid even built up around 7kg. it gets ridden on some pretty rough stuff almost daily.

i'm in the process of converting it to drop bars and 50mm carbon clinchers, so it will slide in just under 7kg now.












happybiker said:


> I'm after a frame that will take bigger tyres with mud clearance, which of these frames has good clearance? I'm particularly interested in the Fr 602 because of the relaxed angles.


FR-602 will clear 40mm tyres easy. a quite measure said there was about ~50mm between the stays/fork legs.


----------



## LanterneRouge14

mitchy_ said:


> definately not noodly. mines a 53cm frame, although i didn't weigh the frame only, it feels quite solid even built up around 7kg. it gets ridden on some pretty rough stuff almost daily.
> 
> i'm in the process of converting it to drop bars and 50mm carbon clinchers, so it will slide in just under 7kg now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FR-602 will clear 40mm tyres easy. a quite measure said there was about ~50mm between the stays/fork legs.


Thanks for the info! I've been weighing pros/cons of going disc, and although a new carbon disc brake frame won't trump more time training on current alloy/canti cx bike this article tipped me over to the darkside; I ride a lot of those roads on alloy rims and don't want to risk a major problem when I upgrade to pricey carbon hoops. 

Looks like the FR-602 will be my do-it-all bike, to run w/ at least 2 wheelsets (road and 'cross).


----------



## BambinoDoro

a.dallaserra said:


> Thanks Pal! Sure thing, here are some photos


Can you help me out a.dallaserra? Im think to buy this frame and build a CX bike. But will this fit 700 x 32C tires on normal road rims? Seems there is not much space left on your images.

thanks in advance


----------



## a.dallaserra

BambinoDoro said:


> Can you help me out a.dallaserra? Im think to buy this frame and build a CX bike. But will this fit 700 x 32C tires on normal road rims? Seems there is not much space left on your images.
> 
> thanks in advance


Hey Pal,

Which frame do you mean? My FR-320 or my FM059? The FR-320 (black and red bike I posted up) = no chance. It'll only fit up to 25mm tyres. The FM059 (which is the single speed I posted with pink accents) will fit your house in there, huge clearance!

The FR320 is a road frame, it's not robust enough for CX in my opinion. The FM059 is a great CX frame.

Let me know if you need any further data


----------



## BambinoDoro

a.dallaserra said:


> Hey Pal,
> 
> Which frame do you mean? My FR-320 or my FM059? The FR-320 (black and red bike I posted up) = no chance. It'll only fit up to 25mm tyres. The FM059 (which is the single speed I posted with pink accents) will fit your house in there, huge clearance!
> 
> The FR320 is a road frame, it's not robust enough for CX in my opinion. The FM059 is a great CX frame.
> 
> Let me know if you need any further data


thanks! I ment the FR-320 frame indeed, too bad it's not possible. Really like the looks of that frame.


----------



## jtompilot

I'm thinking that the Ican C1, di2 might have my name on it. It looks just like the Raleigh rxc pro. 

If I want to use Ultrega di2 do I get English bb?
Also I've never had a cross bike. My road bikes have a 55.5 top tube. Do I get a size 54 with a little shorter top tube?


----------



## ms6073

jtompilot said:


> I'm thinking that the Ican C1, di2 might have my name on it. It looks just like the Raleigh rxc pro.


 Sorry, but you need to do more homework, specifically take a closer look at the Raleigh as the Ican C1 is not even close!


----------



## mitchy_




----------



## a.dallaserra

*Gorgeous!*



mitchy_ said:


>



Lovely looking ride buddy! I love the attention to detail on the matching purple anodising - including the valve caps!


----------



## mitchy_

a.dallaserra said:


> Lovely looking ride buddy! I love the attention to detail on the matching purple anodising - including the valve caps!


cheers mate!

there is actually some purple titanium bolts in the stem and seat post too, but they are a *very* dark purple...


----------



## Monteiro

*Which one?*

Hi guys, 

I'm coming from previous road bikes but lately have been seriously considering a Cyclocross for comfort reasons

I'm new to CX bikes and have been reading all posts but still can't decide which model to build myself a chinese frame FR602 or IP105D ,both are very similar in measures, angles, weight...

Any particular opinion which one is better? Maybe stiffer or smoother.

My main use would be fast commuting, city and will be running sleek 28c's on 38/23mm carbon wheels

I will use red group and go as lightest as possible so not sure which of the 2 frames are lighter.

Appreciate any opinion as I'm ready to pull the trigger in one of these while both vendors have the 51 frame in stock.





mitchy_ said:


> cheers mate!
> 
> there is actually some purple titanium bolts in the stem and seat post too, but they are a *very* dark purple...


----------



## mitchy_

i cant comment on a comparison, apart from the fact that Flyxii list the FR-602 as 1100g for the frame, and 400g for the fork.


----------



## Monteiro

You're right I have seen same numbers somewhere else, for the IP105D the weight is very close on Xmiplay 1150 frame and 450 fork but can't nfind which frame size this weight is related to.


----------



## mitchy_

generally it's for a medium, but sometimes they use a small frame to make it look lighter.

unfortunately i forgot to weigh my 53cm frame as well! only have a total weight.


----------



## Monteiro

On ebay the same frame FR602 have different numbers

BB Type : BB30 
Fork Steerer : 300mm 
Fork Hub Spacing : 100mm 
Wheel Size : 700C
R Frame Width : 135mm
Frame : 900+/-50g ( 51cm) , Fork: 420+/-20g . 
1 1/8" ~ 1 1/2" Tapered Integrated Headset 

somehow confusing


----------



## Monteiro

Which headset bearing should I use? Semi-integrated or integrated.

I ordered my FR-602 yesterday but I want to change the original headset for something lighter


----------



## j e e p s

The frame comes with this integrated headset :
FLYXI
so take a look at the specs


----------



## mitchy_

my FR-602 didn't come with a headset, and Flyxii said they dont include them.

it is the headset mentioned above though, IS42/28.6 | IS52/40

Upper bearing - IS42/28.6 | (OD:41.8 x ID:30.1 x H:8 x A:45°)
Lower bearing - IS52/40 | (OD:51.8 x ID:40 x H:8 x A:45°)


----------



## Monteiro

Ok finally went for the FR-602 as it seems to be one of the lightest CX frames w disc around.

Will post the pics once everything arrives and is put together


----------



## Black37

Mitchy- WOW! Dead sexy! What stem is that? I am building a bike for my son and he is drooling over your stem and purple bolts! Well done!


----------



## Monteiro

WOW... my frame arrived today, 48 hrs after I placed the order, unbelievable!

FR-602 (size 51) from Ebay seller zgr9 (Hong Kong) , the weight for the frame + der.hunger is 1064g + 434g for fork uncut (by email he sad the frame 51cm would weight maximum 990g... not really but not bad anyway)

The packing was perfect and he also sent together the complete headset kit which I am not going to use because it weights 128g compared to the one I have 79g


----------



## LanterneRouge14

Monteiro said:


> WOW... my frame arrived today, 48 hrs after I placed the order, unbelievable!
> 
> FR-602 (size 51) from Ebay seller zgr9 (Hong Kong) , the weight for the frame + der.hunger is 1064g + 434g for fork uncut (by email he sad the frame 51cm would weight maximum 990g... not really but not bad anyway)
> 
> The packing was perfect and he also sent together the complete headset kit which I am not going to use because it weights 128g compared to the one I have 79g


Thanks for posting! That info is definitely helpful for other potential buyers, self included. Good luck with your build, and please post pics and ride report when it's all done  

I just sold an unbuilt CF frame from my stable, which can fund purchase of FR-602 frame. Now in the process of extracting my cross racer from an ex GF who kidnapped it and won't respond any more--I need good vibes from my bros on here to get my CX bike returned so I can fund parts/wheels for "n + 1" bike ;^)


----------



## mitchy_

Black37 said:


> Mitchy- WOW! Dead sexy! What stem is that? I am building a bike for my son and he is drooling over your stem and purple bolts! Well done!


Thanks mate!
the stem is a Flyxii 80mm, i like that it's not your typical cylindrical shape too.



Monteiro said:


> WOW... my frame arrived today, 48 hrs after I placed the order, unbelievable!
> 
> FR-602 (size 51) from Ebay seller zgr9 (Hong Kong) , the weight for the frame + der.hunger is 1064g + 434g for fork uncut (by email he sad the frame 51cm would weight maximum 990g... not really but not bad anyway)
> 
> The packing was perfect and he also sent together the complete headset kit which I am not going to use because it weights 128g compared to the one I have 79g


what headset are you using? i always had the intention of dropping a better set of bearings into mine, it's still running bottom-of-the-toolbox bearings from the original build!


----------



## trickydisco78

Can someone give me the top tube measurement for the fr601/602?

I notice on most frame geometry charts there are 2 measurements (which i think is actual and horizontal?)

I'm interested in the 55 version from flyxi


----------



## LanterneRouge14

trickydisco78 said:


> Can someone give me the top tube measurement for the fr601/602?
> 
> I notice on most frame geometry charts there are 2 measurements (which i think is actual and horizontal?)
> 
> I'm interested in the 55 version from flyxi


According to their alibaba trading site, the horizontal top tube dimension for the "55 cm" frame is 56 cm. 

I can't seem to upload image of geo chart from my iphone, but here is the link (click on the "Specifications" tab to see geo diagram with single top tube dimension for each frame size): FLX-FR-602 Full Carbon 3K Matt Cyclocross cross Frame Fork SIZE:51cm, 53cm, 55cm, 57cm, View Cyclocross cross Frame Fork, Product Details from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports Equipment Co., Limited on Alibaba.com


----------



## trickydisco78

LanterneRouge14 said:


> According to their alibaba trading site, the horizontal top tube dimension for the "55 cm" frame is 56 cm.


Which seems mad! the top tube being an inch longer than the seat tube?


----------



## mitchy_

is that not normal...? most CX frames i looked at had a longer ETT than seat tube.


----------



## trickydisco78

Maybe I keep seeing geometry charts that don#t show the ETT (just the actual)

Which is annoying

Ridley for example

or

View attachment 293041


----------



## mitchy_

Presumably (for the Ridley at least) the top tube is horizontal, so the actual and ETT will be the same. 
The FR-602 has a sloping top tube so they offer up an ETT instead. (Some will list both, Flyxiii don't)


----------



## trickydisco78

Are there any with a horizontal top tube?


----------



## Monteiro

what headset are you using? i always had the intention of dropping a better set of bearings into mine, it's still running bottom-of-the-toolbox bearings from the original build![/QUOTE]


I am using Token TK070 good quality and very light for the price.


----------



## LanterneRouge14

trickydisco78 said:


> Which seems mad! the top tube being an inch longer than the seat tube?


FR-602 top tube is 1 centimeter, or about 3/8 of an inch, longer than seat tube. 

Although one can always find exceptions, it's been years since I've seen new bikes (both 'cross and road) spec'd with typical old-school geometry--i.e. horizontal top tubes that are the same length as the seat tube. So a shorter seat tube relative to a longer, upsloping top tube now seems "normal" to me.


----------



## trickydisco78

LanterneRouge14 said:


> FR-602 top tube is 1 centimeter, or about 3/8 of an inch, longer than seat tube.
> 
> Although one can always find exceptions, it's been years since I've seen new bikes (both 'cross and road) spec'd with typical old-school geometry--i.e. horizontal top tubes that are the same length as the seat tube. So a shorter seat tube relative to a longer, upsloping top tube now seems "normal" to me.


Although if it's sloping the horizontal measurement might be shorter?


----------



## krisdrum

trickydisco78 said:


> Although if it's sloping the horizontal measurement might be shorter?


ETT is a horizontal measure. Hence the need in some cases to include ETT and actual TT. On most modern bikes (aka - sloping top tube), ETT (horizontal) is what gives you an indication of reach when combined with STA and to a lesser extent HTA, given a constant stem length and angle.


----------



## striker1

*fr320 frame*

Hi all, first post.Great forum.

Could anyone tell mehow much clearance is between the seat tube and a 23mm tyre and also between the fork crown and a 23mm tyre?

I really fancy a disc braked carbon frame but would like the option to fit crud racer 2 fenders..for which I need 4mm clearance.

I have seen the pics of clearance on this thread but its difficult to tell and also unsure if tyres in pics are 23 or 25mm.

Thought about the fr 602 but the angles are a bit relaxed for me.

Thanks in advance for any replies...


----------



## LanterneRouge14

trickydisco78 said:


> Although if it's sloping the horizontal measurement might be shorter?





krisdrum said:


> ETT is a horizontal measure. Hence the need in some cases to include ETT and actual TT. On most modern bikes (aka - sloping top tube), ETT (horizontal) is what gives you an indication of reach when combined with STA and to a lesser extent HTA, given a constant stem length and angle.


KD is on the money and for sizing purposes, effective/horizontal top tube length is usually more relevant than seat tube length since many current bikes are now designed with relatively shorter seat tubes, intended to be ridden with longer seatposts, compared to Merckx's day when seat tubes were relatively longer and ridden with only a "fist full" of seatpost showing. 

*Anyway, for bikes that have typical seat tubes (that slope rearward), the effective/horizontal top tube will be longer than the actual sloping top tube length.* 

For what it's worth, reach and stack dimensions may be a better way to estimate bike size/fit (especially for bikes with short seat tubes and sloping top tubes) than either seat tube or effective top tube length. But reach and stack dimensions are often absent on geo charts, and reach doesn't always translate well to effective top tube lengths when comparing bikes with the same reach dimension but very different seat tube angles.


----------



## mitchy_

this should clear it up a bit. the ETT is different to the actual. 99% of the time you will have an ETT for comparisions.


----------



## LanterneRouge14

striker1 said:


> Hi all, first post.Great forum.
> 
> Could anyone tell mehow much clearance is between the seat tube and a 23mm tyre and also between the fork crown and a 23mm tyre?
> 
> I really fancy a disc braked carbon frame but would like the option to fit crud racer 2 fenders..for which I need 4mm clearance.
> 
> I have seen the pics of clearance on this thread but its difficult to tell and also unsure if tyres in pics are 23 or 25mm.
> 
> Thought about the fr 602 but the angles are a bit relaxed for me.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any replies...


The AC098 / MC098 disc brake 'cross frame has a steeper head tube angle than the FR-602--at least for the 54--so it might have the geometry and tire clearance you're seeking. 

On Ican's site, the 54cm frame has a 73 degree ST angle and 72 degree HT angle. Miracle also sells the same frame (MC098) on their alibaba site. 

I don't know if the frame is different now, but I think this frame uses the same mold as Fuji's Altimira CX--it may actually have been identical (same CF material/construction/lay-up schedule/etc), since some Chinese trading companies on alibaba were prohibited from selling this to buyers in the USA a few seasons ago (presumably prohibited by Fuji). If so, Fuji's geo is here. 

Anyway, I'm sure you could contact Ican or Miracle to get full details.


----------



## striker1

Thanks lanternero checked those out.

Unfortunately theyre bb80 and I would like bsa..

Just about ready to push the button on the r320 but want t o find out the clearances.

I have contacted seller and all I can get back is " clearance for 25mm tyres". 

I need to know if I have 4mm clearance at seat tube and fork crown on 23's!!!!!


----------



## mitchy_

cant you get adaptors from BB86 to suit a BSA crank?


----------



## LanterneRouge14

striker1 said:


> Thanks lanternero checked those out.
> 
> Unfortunately theyre bb80 and I would like bsa..
> 
> Just about ready to push the button on the r320 but want t o find out the clearances.
> 
> I have contacted seller and all I can get back is " clearance for 25mm tyres".
> 
> I need to know if I have 4mm clearance at seat tube and fork crown on 23's!!!!!


Most Chinese trading companies seem flexible about specific BB's. So if the AC098/MC098 has the right geometry and tire clearance, but you don't like it's BB86 bottom bracket, then I'd contact Ican/Miracle to see if they can offer you that frame with the more traditional BSA bottom bracket. 

Like Mitchy posted, I assumed BB86 to BSA adapters are plentiful. But after doing a quick search, I only saw the Acros BB86 adapter for Shimano, Raceface, and FSA cranksets with 24mm spindles, and FSA's BB86 to SRAM GXP adapter. I don't know if either of those would help you.


----------



## striker1

Thanks again for info on adapters etc..

I have ordered the fm320...fingers crossed I can get the 4mm clearance I need with 23mm tyres..

Just wasnt sure I would like the longer frames, since all Ive ever ridden is really tight short responsive frames.

Cheers.


----------



## Monteiro

My FR-602 is cooking now, most parts already arrived but unfortunately the wheel seller on ebay shipped me the wrong wheels and I had to return them - sucks big time - hopefully in 3 weeks from now I will start putting all together.

I will post pictures and components weight here to help those who are considering a cross bike project.

By the way during the project I changed my mind regarding components colour so I have some items for sale if someone is interested. The following items will directly fit an FR-602 frame and other frames of same specs: (all new never used)

- Alloy Red headset Token TK070 Heggset 79g
- Alloy red front derailleur frame clamp 34.9mm for braze-on 16g
- Alloy red seatpost clamp 34.9mm KCNC 11.2g
- Carbon Bontrager bottle cage RED 15g

Interested can drop me a message here I can combine shipping or sell separate

I will be travelling next two weeks but can ship later


----------



## slabber

Has anyone ridden the FR-601? In particular, I'm looking for feedback on the *fork* from that frame set. 

I'm interested in purchasing fork only to use with a new Ti frame that I'm in the process of ordering. It's got fender eyelets which will integrate well with the intended usage of the Ti cross frameset.


----------



## rudedog55

slabber said:


> Has anyone ridden the FR-601? In particular, I'm looking for feedback on the *fork* from that frame set.
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing fork only to use with a new Ti frame that I'm in the process of ordering. It's got fender eyelets which will integrate well with the intended usage of the Ti cross frameset.


wow, i was like what about all the other carbon forks out there, so i started looking at all the forks i have ridden, none of them have fender mounts. And i've ridden most as i started using Disc on my cross bike 3 or 4 years ago. 

Did your builder make the HT able to use a tapered fork??

I actually use the Mosso Aluminum fork on my Raleigh Oneway single speed commuter, they offer a post mount with fender eyelet at about 400mm axle to crown now also. Just an option, not that you would wanna put aluminum on a TI bike, but the fork has little deflection and actually is not that harsh on my Steel tourer.


----------



## slabber

I've specified a 44mm head tube, will allow tapered fork. Planning to use Chris King InSet 7 headset.

The fork off the FR-601 will be least costly and pretty light (400g) but want to make sure it handles well before I purchase


----------



## twin001

Has anyone found an XXS size CX frameset anywhere? My wife wants to do some CX next fall/winter so I'm going to build her a bike. Looking for TT no longer than 50cm with a reach of around 370mm ±10mm. Stack around 500mm. Canti brakes are a must.


----------



## LanterneRouge14

twin001 said:


> Has anyone found an XXS size CX frameset anywhere? My wife wants to do some CX next fall/winter so I'm going to build her a bike. Looking for TT no longer than 50cm with a reach of around 370mm ±10mm. Stack around 500mm. Canti brakes are a must.


There may be others, but the only one I've seen so far is Hongfu/Dengfu FM058 "48cm" frameset with 50.4cm effective toptube length: FM058 on Alibaba.com


----------



## Dokuka

The question to the owners of frames : FR-602 (FR-601). 
Help me choose a frame size. 
My height is 172 cm. 
my inseam 80 cm. 
I choose between 51 and 53.
I want 51, but I'm afraid that it will be short.


----------



## Dokuka

heques


----------



## paloaltorider

Hello, I have been trying to follow all the threads about chinese cycocross frames but am hopelessly confused. I thought I would hit the group up for a recommendation. I'm looking for a disc brake frame with a top tube of anywhere from 52 to 53cm, 135 mm rear, and less twitchy geometry, fender and rack mounts would be awesome but not a deal breaker. 

I was hoping to get recs as to where to buy from as well. In addition, what wheelsets are people going for? I'm not opposed to chinese wheelsets either. Not looking to bust a budget since this will be my rain bike, commuter, throw around rig. Thanks so much!


----------



## Monteiro

Dokuka said:


> The question to the owners of frames : FR-602 (FR-601).
> Help me choose a frame size.
> My height is 172 cm.
> my inseam 80 cm.
> I choose between 51 and 53.
> I want 51, but I'm afraid that it will be short.


I am buiding an FR-602 right now and I am exactly same size as you described. I currently have a Specialized Tarmac 2006 size 53 which fits me ok but puts me too low on the bike and I frequently have neck pain during long rides. After throwing a smaller stem I can live with that but the FR-602 I am building, although is not finished I can say for sure that will be way more comfortable in terms of geometry and specially because I have short arms the frame 51 is perfect fit for me.

I don't think you will regret the 51 but you have to decide for comfort or race. If the purpose is more commuting go 51 if racing and you have long arms then go 53. With 172 you can certainly adjust the ride with both frames but I would recommend 51 no doubt.


----------



## mitchy_

so good to see many more FR-602's being built up! 
i was a little concerned there were almost none around when i built mine, but they seem to be flooding in now, great looking and riding frame.

as for Dokuka - personally, i'd go the 51. i'm 175cm and have a 53 with a 80mm stem and kinda wish i went for the 51.

paloaltorider - 51cm FR-602 has a 52cm ETT. relaxed geo means it's not twitchy, 135mmm rear end and also has fender mounts front and rear.


----------



## sanrensho

paloaltorider said:


> Hello, I have been trying to follow all the threads about chinese cycocross frames but am hopelessly confused. I thought I would hit the group up for a recommendation. I'm looking for a disc brake frame with a top tube of anywhere from 52 to 53cm, 135 mm rear, and less twitchy geometry, fender and rack mounts would be awesome but not a deal breaker.


AC024/MC024 (same as On One Dirty Disco) fits your bill with 52.35 effective TT and non-twitchy geo. No fender/rack mounts; use clamps and zap straps.


----------



## paloaltorider

sanrensho said:


> AC024/MC024 (same as On One Dirty Disco) fits your bill with 52.35 effective TT and non-twitchy geo. No fender/rack mounts; use clamps and zap straps.


Are you all ordering on ebay or going through another site? In addition, any feedback on which sellers on ebay to use? Thanks so much!


----------



## sanrensho

Direct for me (Ican or Miracle Trade for the AC/MC024).


----------



## Monteiro

Ordered mine from ebay, from Hong Kong seller, details you find in one of my previous post, received my FR-602 in 2 1/2 days from the payment date, received the frame well packed and headset included 490usd was a good deal


----------



## bcullins

Has anyone come across a Chinese frame/fork that is about the same as a Fuji Altamira CX or a Stevens CX? I'm looking for a canti frame that has around a 57.5 effective TT and a moderate-to-low BB.


----------



## snipe

mitchy_ said:


> definately not noodly. mines a 53cm frame, although i didn't weigh the frame only, it feels quite solid even built up around 7kg. it gets ridden on some pretty rough stuff almost daily.
> 
> i'm in the process of converting it to drop bars and 50mm carbon clinchers, so it will slide in just under 7kg now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FR-602 will clear 40mm tyres easy. a quite measure said there was about ~50mm between the stays/fork legs.


thanks for taking the time to post all the info. I am trying to make up my mind on the 602 vs the IP105. I like the look of the 602 but still have some concerns over the slack HA measurement. The 105 has a steeper more conventional HA. My wife has a Kona Jake the Snake which has a HA on the slacker side which is very noticeable when stood beside my Fuji Cross Pro. The 602 is even a bit slacker than the Kona so it concerns me a bit. Somebody commented that the Cannondale had just as slack a head angle as the 602 but the chart I looked at had a steeper HA number. How have you found the handling in comparison to your road bikes etc? I plan on using mine as a part time road bike as well.

thanks


----------



## mitchy_

remove this post if it's not allowed....

but if anyone is looking for a 53cm FR-602 in australia, i'm keen to sell mine to get onto a 51cm frame. immaculate condition, i read a bedtime story to it each night.


----------



## LanterneRouge14

bcullins said:


> Has anyone come across a Chinese frame/fork that is about the same as a Fuji Altamira CX or a Stevens CX? I'm looking for a canti frame that has around a 57.5 effective TT and a moderate-to-low BB.


There's a used November 58 cm frameset on ebay right now, and geo is w/in 1-2 millimeters of Van Dessel's FTB (I have no connection to this auction, btw): link here. *57.6 cm ETT* , 73* HA, 74* SA, *68mm BB drop*. 

AC-023 / MC-023 has same geo as November/Van Dessel if you wanted a new frame (although I'd prefer a used November frame over a new generic Chinese frame, since Dave and Mike from November are cool cats and they claim it's unlikely the generic AC-023 could have same layup as their bike--link here). 

AC-098 / MC-098 has same geo as Altimira CX, and Ican/Miracle used to offer a v-brake version (same as '12 Altimira CX 2)--I'd contact them to see if they still have the v-brake versions available. 

Flyxii FR-601 is the v brake version of the FR-602; 57 cm frame has *58 cm ETT*, *65mm BB drop*, 71.5* HA, and 72* SA.


----------



## mitchy_

not a cx i know... but i swapped my FR-602 for an FR-320. god it's pretty!

just need a bottom bracket and rotors now.



FR-602










FR-320


----------



## a.dallaserra

Absolute stunner! Good work buddy!!


----------



## Monteiro

Initially I wanted a road frame but needed clearance for bigger tires. The 320 looks nice but the tires are too close to the frame so I would be limited to 25c max I assume. My 620 will be ready in 3 days I will post the pics. So far I am very satisfied with the result, it looks great. Can't wait to ride.


----------



## Mr_Mojo

Do you guys have any issues with toe overlap with these Cx frames? I bought an iPlay IP-105-D (52cm) 2 years ago and my overlap is terrible. Not a good thing for cross racing! Thinking of getting a new frame for this year.


----------



## mitchy_

Monteiro said:


> Initially I wanted a road frame but needed clearance for bigger tires. The 320 looks nice but the tires are too close to the frame so I would be limited to 25c max I assume. My 620 will be ready in 3 days I will post the pics. So far I am very satisfied with the result, it looks great. Can't wait to ride.


that's a 25mm tyre on my FR-320, cetainly wont fit bigger on the rear. front has a bit extra room though.



Mr_Mojo said:


> Do you guys have any issues with toe overlap with these Cx frames? I bought an iPlay IP-105-D (52cm) 2 years ago and my overlap is terrible. Not a good thing for cross racing! Thinking of getting a new frame for this year.


on a 54cm FR-620 i had no issues with my size 11 feet!


----------



## a.dallaserra

Not so much on the FM059. Mind you I guess it depends on your foot size. I'm a UK size 8 (US 9), so it's not ever really a problem.


----------



## bonafide505

All..I just finished reading this thread as I'm just about to pull the trigger on a new CX frame. I am considering a used Super X or Redline Conquest but am realy leaning towards the 58 or 105 Chinese frames

What I, and i'm sue most followers would like to know is how well these bikes are riding and holding up. There are dozens commenting on how great they look but very few actually providing a report on how well they race/ride. 

All feedback would be mucho appreciated.


----------



## Monteiro

Before I bought my FR-620 I found many reviewers here and other forums saying lots of good things on ride quality, geometry, strength, flexibility etc. Plenty of good info here if you just read back all pages carefully. Some specific frames you find more info than others but enough to help your decision


----------



## Monteiro

Finally finished my FR-620 but still need to fine tune and ride but here are the first pics. Final weight was pretty impressive for a Cyclocross with disc brakes and 29c tires. 6570g verified on a digital scale. Showroom weight (w/o pedals) is 6388g close to most high end road bikes available today. With proper CX tires it will be still below 7kg

Will post ride review after few km this week

https://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s530/mont4100/Mobile Uploads/20140426_145059_zpsbt5iurw8.jpg

https://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s530/mont4100/Mobile Uploads/20140426_144153_zpsrlcbxvxm.jpg

https://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s530/mont4100/Mobile Uploads/20140426_145147_zpsivpdzozi.jpg

https://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s530/mont4100/Mobile Uploads/20140426_145249_zpsnhylzuuf.jpg

https://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s530/mont4100/Mobile Uploads/20140426_145122_zpsap84ha35.jpg


----------



## a.dallaserra

Its beautiful!! Great weight for that kind of frame!


----------



## LanterneRouge14

Monteiro said:


> Finally finished my FR-620 but still need to fine tune and ride but here are the first pics. Final weight was pretty impressive for a Cyclocross with disc brakes and 29c tires. 6570g verified on a digital scale. Showroom weight (w/o pedals) is 6388g close to most high end road bikes available today. With proper CX tires it will be still below 7kg
> 
> Will post ride review after few km this week


Red, Spyres, and Power Cordz? Nicely done. 

Can you list the rest of your build?


----------



## Monteiro

You got it. That was the only way I found to reach that weight but I must tell you this powercordz thing is tricky and I damaged 2 cables before I got it done properly but it was worth the effort. I will do better for those who are thinking to build something similar. I will post all parts used and the respective weight. First rides this morning were a dream. I have ridden few road bikes in the past 20 years, alloy, carbon and steel and as far as I can tell from my short experiece with this one it is that the frame and fork is quite flexible making a very comfortable bike yet fast and strong, exactly was I was trying to achieve. My last experience was a Specialised Tarmac for the past 7000km and I was really looking for something more comfortable and smooth. if I would start all over I wouldn't change one bolt from what I actually did.


----------



## Monteiro

Here is the list of components used and weight. Initial budget was 3000 usd but I ended up reaching 4.3k to do it the way I really liked and once for all. Honestly.. this is a bargain compared to the prices found here in Singapore, here a branded bike heavier and much more standard than that will cost you no less than 12k usd, reason why I decided to do it from scratch.


Component	Grams

Bar Tape	36
Bottle cage alloy bolts 4x	4.3
Bottle cage carbon Bontrager	18.4
Botton cups	50.4
Brake caliper pair w/o pads	278.2
Brake caliper Titanium bolts 4X	14.8
Brake pads w spring Force resin	24.3
Cable housing brakes+ inner pipe llink	67
Cable housing hardwares brake	0
Cable wire brakes Power Cordz 1.75	7.5
Cable housing der. ilink 4mm	26
Cable housing hardware derailleurs	6.4
Cable wire derailleurs Cordz 1.2	4
Cassete Red 11-26 11spd	156.3
Cassete nut SRAM	5.6
Chain KMC 11s (110 links)	229
Crankset 170mm Rsram red	520.3
Disc brake 2x 160mm Titanium	89.6
Disc rotor bolts Ti	15.4
Fork after cut	399.5
Frame w/ hanger	1060
Front derail. carbon clamp + Ti bolt	8.1
Front derail. w/ chain c. 22Spd	82.1
Handlebar 3T Rotundo	177.9
Headset Token Heggset	79
Overal grease	7
Pedal egg beater 11 Ti	182.8
Rear derailleurs Sram 22	143.3
Rim Tape Rox for 2 rims	4.3
Saddle carbon Specialized 143mm	93.7
Seatpost Bontrager 31.8 XXX oval ears	165
Seatpost clamp Aerozine	8.8
Shifter lever brakes Sram 22 red	282.2
Star nut	8.8
Stem Cap + bolt Token	12.3
Stem collars carbon	5.3
Stem Uno 7 w/ Ti bolts	80.3
Tires Grand Bois Cerf 29c extra leger	440
Tube cap 2x	2.2
Tubes Vittoria Latex 25-28c	163
Wheel China DIY ebay front	706.2
Wheel China DIY ebay rear	853.3
Skeweres front Krex plus	19.7
Skeweres Krex plus rear	21.9

Total weight	6560.2


Accessories	
Alero garmin mount 34
2nd bottle cage	18.7
Lights	62
Total	114.7

Now ready for the show!


----------



## snipe

Mr_Mojo said:


> Do you guys have any issues with toe overlap with these Cx frames? I bought an iPlay IP-105-D (52cm) 2 years ago and my overlap is terrible. Not a good thing for cross racing! Thinking of getting a new frame for this year.


I didn't realize the 105 has been available that long. Surprised there isn't more info posted on the 105. I guess since the 602 is available on ebay and I don't see the 105 there.

Any thoughts on why you have overlap? Is it just the head angle? Crank length or cleat placement a factor? 

The two frames I have been looking at are the 105 and the 602. I compared the head angles of those two to half dozen other brand name frames. The 105 had the steepest head angle and the 602 had the slackest. The 105 had the same head angle for all sizes which was not the norm. so your 52 had the steepest HA by quite a bit. 

So as luck would have it the two frames on my short list are at each end of the head angle spectrum. Does the 105 suffer from toe overlap? Is the 602 too slack? I intend to use my cross frame mostly on the road and gravel grinder so I want the steering to be on the tighter and responsive side. 

Would appreciate any comments comparing the steering and handling of those two frames in comparison to other cross or road frames.


----------



## tfnv12

Hi, I was wondering if anyone with the fr 602 could comment on the build of the fender eyelets. I was interested in putting a very light rack on it to carry maybe 10-15lbs max. Would this not work? I can always go with the quick release skewer mounts I think too.


----------



## Monteiro

snipe said:


> Would appreciate any comments comparing the steering and handling of those two frames in comparison to other cross or road frames.


FR-602 steering is not responsive at all. Feels like a grandpa bicycle. Doesn't really bother me but I think besides the angle the design of the the fork added to its flexibility makes the steering very unusual. If you do lots of low speed turns it will definitely bother you. In low speed going straight when you take your hands off the handlebar the steering will quickly pull to one side or the other. Not sure if it was supposed to behave this way or if it was really a design mistake. I love every other aspect of this frame and so far I am enjoying it but the steering felt really odd right on the first ride


----------



## BobHope

Hi its my first post so be kind 

I've read the thread(s) on chinese carbon frames and got to say there has been a lot useful info here, so thanks.

I, however, have one problem. I am going for the r-320 frame from ebay but I am balancing with the frame size (54 or 56). I am 180cm tall and my inseam is 80cm and arm length is 67cm. Is there someone out there with similar measures that could give me recommendations? Also the latest comments on the frame itself is appreciated (I've become paranoid about the durability of the frames)


----------



## Monteiro

According to most charts 56 should be the correct size for you but IMHO this is more personal than scientific. For example I always feel more comfortable with 1 or 2 numbers lower than the usual recommendation. If you go smaller frame you can always find ways to adjust seat post, stem, fork etc not so easy if the frame is on the larger side. As for the durability... I can't speak from my own experience because I just built mine but I haven't heard one single case of crack or damage under normal use. These frames are super strong and very well made


----------



## BikeInCanada

Monteiro said:


> As for the durability... I can speak from my own experience because I just built mine but I haven't heard one single case of crack or damage under normal use. These frames are super strong and very well made


I'd agree with this. 

I've only had my r-002 for about a week now so long term test comments can't be made. But I've ridden a few carbon frames by Ridley, Wilier, Trek, etc etc and I can't tell the difference personally. 

My r-002 is rock solid thus far. Handles great. Absorbs small bumps well. Spins up real fast. 

Zero complaints thus far.


----------



## Jochem132

Hi All,

Just ordered a FM058 Size 54 frame with Dengfu. With their own decals.
I am going to ride it next cyclocross season. I am a junior in Holland.
Hope the bike will handle great!


----------



## ms6073

snipe said:


> I didn't realize the 105 has been available that long.


I think the IP-105-D was introduced in late 2012 as a 2013 model but initially there was very limited availability in only one size. I purchased a size 54 and 56 for the wife and I last year there was still a 8-10 week delay between order and receipt of the frames.


----------



## Mr_Mojo

I would stay away from the 105 due to the steep head angle and toe overlap. I wear 9.5 shoes, use 170mm cranks and have over an inch of overlap. It's ridiculous, esp with tight 180 turns in cross races.


----------



## fronesis

Does anyone know the standover height on the FlyXii FR-602 in size 57?

I'm having a very hard time finding a carbon (China direct) cx bike that will fit me. I have an odd fit because I have an extremely long torso and very short legs. I need a frame with an effective TT of about 570 (or frame reach of around 390 to 395), but if the ST on the bike is longer than 550, then I may not be able to stand over it (I can do a standover heigh of max of 31.5", but 31" would work better). 

The FlyXii FR-602 will fit me nicely in the 57, but I'm not sure I can stand over it (the TT is sloping, but not by that much). I love my FR-315, but it has a severely sloping top tube.


----------



## TrevorRaab

Ok so I just received my fr602 and I'm starting to build it up loosely just to make sure everything is in working order. I am running into a bit of confusion with the supplied headset/headtube. I have dealt with integrated headsets before but only on aluminum frames and in that experience the headset bearing always needs to be pressed with some force. Now with my new frame the bearing just drops in against bare carbon and is not secure at all. Now, I dont know if this will all be ok once the bearings are put under some force but to me something seems off. Can anyone please tell me if something is wrong or is this just the way it is.


----------



## mrcreosote

TrevorRaab said:


> Ok so I just received my fr602 and I'm starting to build it up loosely just to make sure everything is in working order. I am running into a bit of confusion with the supplied headset/headtube. I have dealt with integrated headsets before but only on aluminum frames and in that experience the headset bearing always needs to be pressed with some force. Now with my new frame the bearing just drops in against bare carbon and is not secure at all. Now, I dont know if this will all be ok once the bearings are put under some force but to me something seems off. Can anyone please tell me if something is wrong or is this just the way it is.


That is just the way it is. Bit of grease to help hold things in place, but remember when it is all tightened up, the lower bearing will be held between the fork race and the angled sides of the bottom of the head-tube. ditto the top bearing.


----------



## tincaman

TrevorRaab said:


> Ok so I just received my fr602 and I'm starting to build it up loosely just to make sure everything is in working order. I am running into a bit of confusion with the supplied headset/headtube. I have dealt with integrated headsets before but only on aluminum frames and in that experience the headset bearing always needs to be pressed with some force. Now with my new frame the bearing just drops in against bare carbon and is not secure at all. Now, I dont know if this will all be ok once the bearings are put under some force but to me something seems off. Can anyone please tell me if something is wrong or is this just the way it is.


Yes, same as mine, but when fully assembled and tightened up, there is no play at all, so dont worry


----------



## TrevorRaab

mrcreosote said:


> That is just the way it is. Bit of grease to help hold things in place, but remember when it is all tightened up, the lower bearing will be held between the fork race and the angled sides of the bottom of the head-tube. ditto the top bearing.





tincaman said:


> Yes, same as mine, but when fully assembled and tightened up, there is no play at all, so dont worry


Thanks for helping clear that up for me. I'll try to remember to post up the completed build!


----------



## fronesis

I'm about to order my FR-602, and have a couple of final questions for current owners:

1. I know it takes a band front derailleur, but what size? I'm assuming 35mm, but would like to confirm.

2. Does it come with a seatpost and seatpost collar? If not, what did folks choose here?

--
p.s. For anyone curious, no one responded to my question about standover height on the FR-602 in size 57, but looking closely at the geometry and doing some math and estimates, I believe it will be right about at 32".


----------



## Monteiro

1. Front derailleur clamp size should be 34.9mm

2. My frame didn't come with seatpost and seatpost clamp. Seatpost should be 31.6mm and clamp 34.9mm 
I have ordered two seatposts one Bontrager XXX with seat back and one Climax zero seatback for different purposes

If you need Derailleur clamp, seatpost clamp and headset kit I have a set in red anodized which I didn't use and can sell to you if interested. It works perfectly for the 602. Reason I didn't use is because I decided to go gold instead. Let me know if you want


----------



## rob1035

Just read the whole thread and am looking at the ebay (zgr9) canti frame/fork for a light SSCX built. I believe this is the same frame as the flyxi FR601, which has a straight 1-1/8" steerer fork, but a tapered head tube, correct? Or is it just a integrated lower bearing headtube?


----------



## fronesis

Monteiro said:


> 1. Front derailleur clamp size should be 34.9mm
> 
> 2. My frame didn't come with seatpost and seatpost clamp. Seatpost should be 31.6mm and clamp 34.9mm
> I have ordered two seatposts one Bontrager XXX with seat back and one Climax zero seatback for different purposes
> 
> If you need Derailleur clamp, seatpost clamp and headset kit I have a set in red anodized which I didn't use and can sell to you if interested. It works perfectly for the 602. Reason I didn't use is because I decided to go gold instead. Let me know if you want


Thanks for the needed info on the FD – very helpful! 

And I'll consider your offer for the red-accented parts. I actually just built up my FR-315 with all red accents, so I need to decide if the next bike will follow that theme, or go in a different direction.


----------



## rob1035

How is the tire clearance on these frames generally?


----------



## daynkc

Has anyone here built up a Velobuild CX-002 or CX-001 frame? A couple of things I noticed the rear derailleur and brake cable exit out of the top of the chain stays...any potential issues with dirt, mud, water entering the more exposed exit points? A second item..the frames are listed as 53, 55, etc and the seat tube seems to match the size but the top tube is like what you would find in a 54 or 56 frame. I currently ride a Cervelo S2 but have to put a shorter stem 90mm on it, so was hoping a frame size of 550 TT would be ideal but the CX seems to use a little longer TT for the frame size.


----------



## ms6073

daynkc said:


> Has anyone here built up a Velobuild CX-002


can't answer your question specifically, but from the image on VB, that appears to be an FR-602.


----------



## fronesis

daynkc said:


> Has anyone here built up a Velobuild CX-002 or CX-001 frame? A couple of things I noticed the rear derailleur and brake cable exit out of the top of the chain stays...any potential issues with dirt, mud, water entering the more exposed exit points? A second item..the frames are listed as 53, 55, etc and the seat tube seems to match the size but the top tube is like what you would find in a 54 or 56 frame. I currently ride a Cervelo S2 but have to put a shorter stem 90mm on it, so was hoping a frame size of 550 TT would be ideal but the CX seems to use a little longer TT for the frame size.



I agree with ms6073 - that looks like the FR-602 to me. 

As for sizing - the reach on that frame is a bit low relative to the eTT lengths. For example, I need a frame reach of about 390-395mm. In the FR-315 road bike that puts me in a frame with a eTT of 565, but in the FR-602 it puts me in the frame with a eTT of 580. This is going to be true in general that cx bikes with more slack ST and HT will need slightly more TT length to have a similar reach compared to road bikes with more aggressive ST and HT angles...

Therefore, if you were looking for a eTT of 550 in your road bike, you would probably be good with 560 in this frame. 

Even more precise, however, would be finding out what your actual reach numbers are.


----------



## Jochem132

Just got some pictures of my new FM058 frame. Going to build it up with Shimano Ultegra Di2.


----------



## inthesticks

So far mine has been good, have not had any issues, 54cm, TRP HY/RD brakes, SRAM Red group, 1x10, 42t front-12-27 rear, 17.9lbs as it sits. FM105


----------



## mitchy_

funky colours, but it looks great!
what frame is it?


----------



## inthesticks

mitchy_ said:


> funky colours, but it looks great!
> what frame is it?


Thanks, just tired of seeing the same old bike colors. It is an FM 105


----------



## rudedog55

Jochem132 said:


> Just got some pictures of my new FM058 frame. Going to build it up with Shimano Ultegra Di2.


you will love that frame!!! i have 2 of them, but i outfitted mine with a front disc fork from their FM059. The bike is point and shoot, you put it where you want it and it responds. im a bigger rider and feel no flex while under power. Best of luck with it!!!


----------



## Admiral_Bike

I've just ordered an FM058 frame, and wonder about a couple of things. Hopefully an owner of FM058 or FM059 can answer me.

1. To get bottom-pull for the front gear, can this one be mounted on the frame? Bikeman Problem Solvers Cable Pulley Aluminum: Black (i.e. does the frame have a screw whole for it?)

2. Does the frame have support for braze on front derailleur? I asked the company I ordered from about this, but I'm not sure if they understood the question.

It would be nice to know this before I get the frame, to know what to order. I don't have a bike store close-by having these types of equipments.

Thank you,
-AB


----------



## rudedog55

Admiral_Bike said:


> I've just ordered an FM058 frame, and wonder about a couple of things. Hopefully an owner of FM058 or FM059 can answer me.
> 
> 1. To get bottom-pull for the front gear, can this one be mounted on the frame? Bikeman Problem Solvers Cable Pulley Aluminum: Black (i.e. does the frame have a screw whole for it?)
> 
> 2. Does the frame have support for braze on front derailleur? I asked the company I ordered from about this, but I'm not sure if they understood the question.
> 
> It would be nice to know this before I get the frame, to know what to order. I don't have a bike store close-by having these types of equipments.
> 
> Thank you,
> -AB


The Front derailleur is 34.9 clamp on, i would not get a braze on derailleur, i cannot see how you would be able to get it to work.

i run single front rings, but i am almost certain that there is a boss for the screw that pulley uses.

ill look for the pulley boss when i get home and will post tomorrow if it is not there


----------



## Admiral_Bike

rudedog55 said:


> The Front derailleur is 34.9 clamp on, i would not get a braze on derailleur, i cannot see how you would be able to get it to work.
> 
> i run single front rings, but i am almost certain that there is a boss for the screw that pulley uses.
> 
> ill look for the pulley boss when i get home and will post tomorrow if it is not there


Thank you very much! Regarding using a braze on
derailleur, I think a converter should
make it possible to mount a braze-on front derailleur.
There's a billion different types of these available.
I even think my Giant bike had one of those converters
installed when I bought it.


----------



## rudedog55

Admiral_Bike said:


> Thank you very much! Regarding using a braze on
> derailleur, I think a converter should
> make it possible to mount a braze-on front derailleur.
> There's a billion different types of these available.
> I even think my Giant bike had one of those converters
> installed when I bought it.


ah yes, that is correct, braze-on derailleur and the 34.9 clamp adapter that are plentiful, but my bikes did not come with that, so i used generic cheapie 34.9 clamp front mech's as a chain drop guard.


----------



## MShaw

rudedog55 said:


> The Front derailleur is 34.9 clamp on, i would not get a braze on derailleur, i cannot see how you would be able to get it to work.
> 
> i run single front rings, but i am almost certain that there is a boss for the screw that pulley uses.
> 
> ill look for the pulley boss when i get home and will post tomorrow if it is not there


I didn't go look at the link, but the Shimano CX70 has a top pull derailleur. You can get em with bands or braze-on.

Personally, I'd get the braze-on and run a clamp adaptor. Next time you change frames, the derailleur will x-fer

M


----------



## Admiral_Bike

MShaw said:


> I didn't go look at the link, but the Shimano CX70 has a top pull derailleur. You can get em with bands or braze-on.
> 
> Personally, I'd get the braze-on and run a clamp adaptor. Next time you change frames, the derailleur will x-fer
> 
> M


Well, I already have that wheel (in the link you "didn't go look at") and a braze-on front derailleur. That's why I wanted to know these things. Did consider cx70 though, but it's very expensive.


----------



## Admiral_Bike

rudedog55 said:


> The Front derailleur is 34.9 clamp on, i would not get a braze on derailleur, i cannot see how you would be able to get it to work.
> 
> i run single front rings, but i am almost certain that there is a boss for the screw that pulley uses.
> 
> ill look for the pulley boss when i get home and will post tomorrow if it is not there


I just got the frame, and it seems like they have changed the design of FM058 a bit. The front gear cable is now routed from the bottom, like a regular road boke, and not from the top.

Which I guess is okay. But I have a problem! There is a smale hole on the top of the bottom bracket which the gear cable can go out through. However, this hole is quite a bit misplaced (by a centimeter or so), so if I mount the cable through this hole, the cable will snag against the frame. 

Any tip what to do? Could drilling a new hole weaken the carbon?

Edit: Here is a picture I found of a specialized bike with the same type of cable routing:








The problem I have is that the hole is placed around one centimeter too far to the right. And furhtermore, on my bike, there is no strenghtening material or protection around the cable at the hole, like there is in the picture above. It's just a hole in the carbon.


----------



## ms6073

Admiral_Bike said:


> I just got the frame, and it seems like they have changed the design of FM058 a bit. The front gear cable is now routed from the bottom, like a regular road boke, and not from the top.
> 
> Which I guess is okay. But I have a problem! There is a smale hole on the top of the bottom bracket which the gear cable can go out through. However, this hole is quite a bit misplaced (by a centimeter or so), so if I mount the cable through this hole, the cable will snag against the frame.
> 
> Any tip what to do? Could drilling a new hole weaken the carbon?
> 
> Edit: Here is a picture I found of a specialized bike with the same type of cable routing:
> View attachment 298100
> 
> 
> The problem I have is that the hole is placed around one centimeter too far to the right. And furthermore, on my bike, there is no strengthening material or protection around the cable at the hole


Use a teflon cable liner like Jagwire L3 cable liner.


----------



## mitchy_

i would have thought it was impossible for the hole to be in the wrong place, aren't they made in a mould?

the same hole on my FR-602 and FR-320 is offset to the right as well. as is it on my Norco Threshold.


----------



## Admiral_Bike

ms6073 said:


> Use a teflon cable liner like Jagwire L3 cable liner.


You mean the type of outer cable that can be used to protect the cable from water?










In case, that would not last even one second since it would be squeezed between the cable and the carbon and brake immediately.

The hole is big enough to fit an outer cable though, so that's at least a last resort solution. But unfortunately, the hole is too small for an end cap to fit through. Guess I have to be creative.


----------



## Admiral_Bike

mitchy_ said:


> i would have thought it was impossible for the hole to be in the wrong place, aren't they made in a mould?
> 
> the same hole on my FR-602 and FR-320 is offset to the right as well. as is it on my Norco Threshold.


Are you saying that the gear cable snags against the carbon on your bikes? Is there any protection around the hole? I'm afraid that if I just mount the cable as it is, the cable will saw and destroy the carbon frame.


----------



## Monteiro

just let the cable inner housing (plastic) go through the hole. The cable will slide inside the housing and will not damage the hole. Mine is also off set and there is no reinforced edge but the housing will be fixed through the hole and just the cable will move. in case the inner housing is not passing through the hole you can just drill it a hair larger this will not affect any carbon durability. In fact you can see in the picture that I used the inner housing all the way up to the derailleur to protect the cable from getting damaged and dirty. Im using powecordz and the frame is fr602


----------



## Admiral_Bike

Thank you all very much. I'm probably too worried about the carbon since I have no previous experience with the material. Anyhow, I don't have any liner, but instead I found some jagwire gear cable housing laying around, which turned out to be perfectly stiff and perfectly wide, so now everything is fine. The gear cable housing we see in the picture below goes through the hole, and since I had to use quite a bit of force to push it through, it should sit tight there.


----------



## MShaw

Admiral_Bike said:


> Well, I already have that wheel (in the link you "didn't go look at") and a braze-on front derailleur. That's why I wanted to know these things. Did consider cx70 though, but it's very expensive.


My Altamira had the pulley down there too. All the Scattante bikes I assemble have em. Ditto with some of the others. 

Do yourself a favor and skip the $%$^ pulley and get the top pull derailleur if your bike's routed right. 

Your shifting *will* be better w/o that #%$#$ pulley.

M


----------



## Admiral_Bike

MShaw said:


> My Altamira had the pulley down there too. All the Scattante bikes I assemble have em. Ditto with some of the others.
> 
> Do yourself a favor and skip the $%$^ pulley and get the top pull derailleur if your bike's routed right.
> 
> Your shifting *will* be better w/o that #%$#$ pulley.
> 
> M


Well, as I said, surprisingly, they changed the design of the frame, so it's down-pull now. Good thing I didn't buy that expensive top-pull derailleur, right? Anyway, I've used a pulley wheel for a couple of years already on a CX, and it has worked okay. With that said, I did actually order a speen umlenker for the new bike (seemed like a simpler solution), which of course I didn't get any use for.


----------



## epicmcd

Hello All, Just ordered an MC105-v from Miracle Bikes for the upcoming CX season here in the UK.

should be an interesting build (read - a little experimental) as I have decided to go smaller than usual in a bid to fix my long leg short body niggles.

anyway, will let you know how it all go's.

cheers!


----------



## cx.ger

Hey,

i'm also interested in the MC105-v.
expirience? whats about the stiffness....etc?

i also be uncertain which size to choose...56 or 58, i'm about 6'2", both should work...
can someone help?

thanks!


----------



## epicmcd

Will get mine Wednesday (fast response from Miracle, slow UK customs and now bank holiday), ordered 56 and I'm 6'3" but proportionally leggy. Will let you know how I get on with the fit.


----------



## cx.ger

thanks for the answer. that would be nice!

than it will be a 56, i think. just to be more agile... i also think its normal to choose one size smaler than your regular roadbikesize?

emailed to miracle yesterday, no response yet...? got a hint? maybe i'm just impatient


----------



## Andy STi

Here is my 58cm MC105 with a 79cm seat hight and a 120 stem. This was right after I built it last season.









In use


----------



## cx.ger

Looks really great! Still in use?
How's the frame? can you tell something, stiffness ...?
How tall are you?
thanks


----------



## Andy STi

cx.ger said:


> Looks really great! Still in use?
> How's the frame? can you tell something, stiffness ...?
> How tall are you?
> thanks


I've been really happy with it. I'm 6'1" and my seat is 79cm from the BB to top of the seat. I think I may have dropped the stem since that 1st pic. The bike rides great. Seems stiff enough for me. I haven't used it since my last race last season but I will this year - have a broken wrist right now so I may only do a couple races.


----------



## cx.ger

sounds good! I'm 6'2" the 58 will fit, I think. 
looking forward to ride the bike this upcoming german cx season. Most of the parts are still here, sram force cranks, STI's, Sram xo rear, trp euroX carbon... just don't choose the wheels yet.
sorry about your wrist, get well soon!


----------



## epicmcd

Straight out of the box and with initial tape measure set-up.

56cm frame
100mm -17 stem

I'm
Inseem 36.25 91.5cm
Height 6'3" 190.5cm
Saddle height, 81cm from BB to top of saddle

its almost spot on for me like this, but could probably do with increasing stem length by 10mm & changing to 6°

First race 7th August, gotta get a move on!


----------



## cx.ger

epicmcd said:


> Straight out of the box and with initial tape measure set-up.
> 
> 56cm frame
> 100mm -17 stem
> 
> I'm
> Inseem 36.25 91.5cm
> Height 6'3" 190.5cm
> Saddle height, 81cm from BB to top of saddle
> 
> its almost spot on for me like this, but could probably do with increasing stem length by 10mm & changing to 6°
> 
> First race 7th August, gotta get a move on!



I love the frame. Looks Great!!
the tt feels a Little too short? Or does it fit?
Thanks for your repy!


----------



## deviousalex

Has anyone purchased a disc frame that is thru axle compatible? I found this online but I'm not sure if it's just a CAD diagram right now or actually shipping.

First Look:2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle New cyclocross bicycle carbon frame, View 2015 cyclocross bike frame, OEM Product Details from Shenzhen Featbike Sport Equipment Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com


----------



## epicmcd

No, I think it fits fine, have since fitted 6° 100mm stem and I think I'll race it this Sunday like that to decide if I want the extra 10mm. At the moment I don't think I do.

Bit of a mare this week at work, so I don't think I'll have any shakedown time prior to the race.


----------



## epicmcd

Photo morning of first race this season, just after I completed the build. Didn't even have time to put tape on the bars.

weight is just a little over 7.5kg.

I have toe overlap on this bike which worried me until I raced, It just didn't seem to be a problem, Old frame was Giant TCX which never had such a problem though it was a L (58)

very agile, Lost seat after 1.5 laps so I don't recommend my seat-post / seat combination (side clamp post / oval seat rails)

Completed the remaining 45 mins standing up avoiding a post up the chuff. Need second bike!


----------



## ZachUA

epicmcd said:


> Photo morning of first race this season, just after I completed the build. Didn't even have time to put tape on the bars.
> 
> weight is just a little over 7.5kg.
> 
> I have toe overlap on this bike which worried me until I raced, It just didn't seem to be a problem, Old frame was Giant TCX which never had such a problem though it was a L (58)
> 
> very agile, Lost seat after 1.5 laps so I don't recommend my seat-post / seat combination (side clamp post / oval seat rails)
> 
> Completed the remaining 45 mins standing up avoiding a post up the chuff. Need second bike!


Nice! What kind of stem is that?


----------



## epicmcd

Planet-X one of these Planet X Ultralight CNC Stem | Planet X 100mm


----------



## cx.ger

> _Need second bike!_


So you don't want to ride this again? Ist the frame to small?


----------



## krisdrum

cx.ger said:


> So you don't want to ride this again? Ist the frame to small?


I think he means he needs a back-up bike so he doesn't have to race without a seat again. By the way epic - those side single bolt seatposts are not known for their optimal CX use. 

And judging from the saddle position (tilted down), I'd say the frame/position is too long/stretched-out. You usually see that when folks are trying to rotate too far forward to reach the bars.


----------



## cx.ger

krisdrum said:


> I think he means he needs a back-up bike so he doesn't have to race without a seat again. By the way epic - those side single bolt seatposts are not known for their optimal CX use.


...my fault!

I had the problem with full carbon saddles from china with my 3T LTD seat post...


----------



## epicmcd

Yes, the bike is fine, I definitely want to ride it again, I meant a second 'pit' bike. 

Sadle position was just bad last minute setup, I changed it at the venue, but turned out to be academic. Seatpost came from Miracle with the frame, first time ive seen one like that. Will put it on my road bike and buy a propper post for this one.


----------



## ms6073

epicmcd said:


> Seatpost came from Miracle with the frame, first time I've seen one like that.


I have always tended to be a bit cautious about components and while I had no issues aside from nit picky finish details with either frame or fork from Dengfu, when I got our iPlay disc cross framesets, I opted to spend the savings from the frame on Enve CX disc fork and seat post as both were lighter than the Chinese equivalents.


----------



## steeled3

I'm doing research for a frame purchase to replace a broken cyclocross (not carbon, my fault, long story, I'm typing one-handed for a while). I'm interested in the hong-fu fm-286 but haven't seen it discussed here. Is it brand new to their web site? Can anyone offer any insights prior to me reaching out to the hong-fu team, including how it differs to the older models?


----------



## snipe

steeled3 said:


> I'm doing research for a frame purchase to replace a broken cyclocross (not carbon, my fault, long story, I'm typing one-handed for a while). I'm interested in the hong-fu fm-286 but haven't seen it discussed here. Is it brand new to their web site? Can anyone offer any insights prior to me reaching out to the hong-fu team, including how it differs to the older models?


I just got an email back from HF this morning. $690 usd including shipping to canada, headset, 4.5% paypal fee. I have no experience or other info on the bike so I too would be interested in anybody's review of the frame and their build. Any other sellers of this frame perhaps under a different model #??


----------



## epicmcd

ms6073 said:


> I have always tended to be a bit cautious about components


Yes, I've gone back to one of my old favourites..... Bullet proof, light enough & proven design.

2nd race this Sunday, Might even have the bar tape on by then, you never know :blush2:


----------



## ms6073

snipe said:


> I have no experience or other info on the bike so I too would be interested in anybody's review of the frame and their build.


I think Hongfu is one of the few that trading companies that are backed/co-located with the actual manufacturer. Did you get estimates for availability/shipping and/or geometry charts as the images posted on the product page for the HF FM286 seem to me to be computer renderings, not digital images. I have learned from experience of being an early adopter can result in pretty long lead times as Hongfu/Dengfu have a reputation of posting new frames for which molds have not yet even been created. Inquiries are answered with 45-day estimated lead times which later turns out to be more like 4-5 months!


----------



## steeled3

ms6073 said:


> Inquiries are answered with 45-day estimated lead times which later turns out to be more like 4-5 months!


Ouch. That's not going to work - my collarbone is going to heal well before then!

I've been in contact and been sent some technical drawings, from which I can see that the new frame is slightly smaller than the FM-089.

I've got a question out to them at the moment as to what the difference is with the -089 that justifies the price increase (I've been quoted a $75 delta between the old frame/fork and the new), besides being the 'new model'. 

From looking at the drawings it appears that:
- the major angles are still all roughly the same, within 1/2 a degree.
- their 58cm model is measuring from BB-center to top of seat tube, whereas in the -089 it was measured from BB-center to middle of top tube. This makes the new models all effectively smaller, it seems: if you were comfortable on a 56cm frame you may want to opt for the 58cm now.
- I'm not an expert on sizing, but comparing the effective top tube between the two, the new 58cm model is the same as the old 56cm (actually the -286 is .5mm bigger, at 575mm) 
- bottom bracket drop is slightly shorter - around 4mm shorter than the -089, but still in the 53 - 57mm range across the frame sizes.
- some styling differences, like having a flat head tube instead of the angle on the -089. There are probably a bunch more areo-styling changes, but I can't determine that from the schematics.

Anyone know of any annoyances with the -089 that would be candidates for improvement?

Meanwhile, I may ask for a lead-time estimate...


----------



## mrcreosote

steeled3 said:


> Ouch. That's not going to work - my collarbone is going to heal well before then!
> 
> I've been in contact and been sent some technical drawings, from which I can see that the new frame is slightly smaller than the FM-089.
> 
> I've got a question out to them at the moment as to what the difference is with the -089 that justifies the price increase (I've been quoted a $75 delta between the old frame/fork and the new), besides being the 'new model'.
> 
> From looking at the drawings it appears that:
> - the major angles are still all roughly the same, within 1/2 a degree.
> - their 58cm model is measuring from BB-center to top of seat tube, whereas in the -089 it was measured from BB-center to middle of top tube. This makes the new models all effectively smaller, it seems: if you were comfortable on a 56cm frame you may want to opt for the 58cm now.
> - I'm not an expert on sizing, but comparing the effective top tube between the two, the new 58cm model is the same as the old 56cm (actually the -286 is .5mm bigger, at 575mm)
> - bottom bracket drop is slightly shorter - around 4mm shorter than the -089, but still in the 53 - 57mm range across the frame sizes.
> - some styling differences, like having a flat head tube instead of the angle on the -089. There are probably a bunch more areo-styling changes, but I can't determine that from the schematics.
> 
> Anyone know of any annoyances with the -089 that would be candidates for improvement?
> 
> Meanwhile, I may ask for a lead-time estimate...


Looks like a completely different bike - rear brake location, profile of seat stay/chain stay junction, different head tube, different tube profiles, different fork, looks like FD cable routing is from BB vs from TT

FM089










FM286


----------



## Jochem132

I have finished my Dengfu, Build it up with Ultegra Di2. I used the BladeX 38mm tubular wheels with 33mm Dugast Typhoon tubulars. I allready did a few training rides on it, handles great, feels stiff but also comfortable. I will race it like this coming winter.


----------



## Monteiro

Nice one


----------



## snipe

[I have learned from experience of being an early adopter can result in pretty long lead times as Hongfu/Dengfu have a reputation of posting new frames for which molds have not yet even been created. Inquiries are answered with 45-day estimated lead times which later turns out to be more like 4-5 months![/QUOTE]

an email from HF today said 2 or more months lead time to get the factory schedule worked out. I think the 286 looks like the nicest frame that I have seen. all internal routing, chain stay mounted brake, straight fork, 72deg head angle, BSA bb, more bb to axle length than the 105 so hopefully no toe overlap. so I guess I wait. 

the only thing that I would be curious about is tire clearance with the wishbone seat stay. I also have not seen a photo of the underside of the BB shell. anybody know if there is port or if its solid and whether full housing can be run.


----------



## ms6073

snipe said:


> an email from HF today said 2 or more months lead time to get the factory schedule worked out.


Thought so. My interpretation would be that presently the molds for the frames are still being made, so it will be at least 60-days before the first frames are completed! Always confused about the fact that the Chinese trading companies and wholesalers inevitably wait until the beginning of the season to start marketing CX frames knowing well that they wont actually be able to start shipping until nearly the end of the season!


----------



## cx.ger

hey guys,

i received my mc-105-v two weeks ago..... love it!

but i got a problem with the cantilever-socket. there is the little plate, with three drillings. if every thing is right, this thing points the middle of the fork. i think everyone know how a canto-fork have to look like... (i have to excuse my bad englisch....)
But the one on the fork i got, the drillings almost pointing to the ground! so i don't can mount my trp euroX carbon....

so my question is, can i use an allen key to loosen the plate and correct it? or is the plate and also the canti-socket laminated?


----------



## cx.ger

no one?


----------



## epicmcd

just loosen the boss with a small spanner, put the plate in the correct position and re-tighten the boss. 

the boss is just screwed into an insert in the fork. Mine were a little off centre also.



cx.ger said:


> hey guys,
> 
> i received my mc-105-v two weeks ago..... love it!
> 
> but i got a problem with the cantilever-socket. there is the little plate, with three drillings. if every thing is right, this thing points the middle of the fork. i think everyone know how a canto-fork have to look like... (i have to excuse my bad englisch....)
> But the one on the fork i got, the drillings almost pointing to the ground! so i don't can mount my trp euroX carbon....
> 
> so my question is, can i use an allen key to loosen the plate and correct it? or is the plate and also the canti-socket laminated?


----------



## cx.ger

epicmcd said:


> just loosen the boss with a small spanner, put the plate in the correct position and re-tighten the boss.
> 
> the boss is just screwed into an insert in the fork. Mine were a little off centre also.


Thank you very much!
i thought the Boss could be laminated with the Frame... Thanks again for the Great answer


----------



## Limerocker

Jochem132 said:


> I have finished my Dengfu, Build it up with Ultegra Di2. I used the BladeX 38mm tubular wheels with 33mm Dugast Typhoon tubulars. I allready did a few training rides on it, handles great, feels stiff but also comfortable. I will race it like this coming winter.


 Nice build! Any specifications on tire clearance? Would a 35 fit? 40? Also, did you consider placing the battery internally (seatpost)?


----------



## anthro88

I'm getting the FR602. I ordered the BSA bottom bracket and I have a GXP sram crankset. 

would I need to get a BB86 gxp bottom bracket? or can I use the BB86 GXP press fit that I already have? what BSA bottom bracket do you recomend? thank you


----------



## anthro88

I'm getting the FR602. I ordered the BSA bottom bracket and I have a GXP sram crankset. 

would I need to get a BB86 gxp bottom bracket? or can I use the BB86 GXP press fit that I already have? what BSA bottom bracket do you recomend? thank you


----------



## mitchy_

you'll need a threaded GXP bottom bracket for a BSA frame.


----------



## rusty904

Hey folks, visitor from mtbr here. I'm currently building a transition rapture frame up and I'm looking to drop a lb or so by swapping to a carbon fork. The frame has a 44mm headtube so it can run a tapered fork.

I was wondering if anyone had encountered a good manufacturer/vendor that will sell a disc fork separately? Apologies if this topic has been discussed but I could not find it after skimming the thread.

If anyone has a fork they'd be interested in selling all the better! Thanks for the help.


----------



## ms6073

rusty904 said:


> I was wondering if anyone had encountered a good manufacturer/vendor that will sell a disc fork separately?


There are a couple others, but I think Enve and Whiskey are the two most often mentioned when questions like this arise.


----------



## rusty904

ms6073 said:


> There are a couple others, but I think Enve and Whiskey are the two most often mentioned when questions like this arise.


In a perfect world I'd love one of those. Just can't spend $400-$550 on a fork!


----------



## rusty904

So I messaged a few vendors and got two responses from vendors willing to sell me forks separately.

First one was xmiplay. They seem to have pretty good communication and gave me a detailed quote. Fork is from this frame. IP-105-D 2013 newest super light Di2 carbon disc cyclocross frame BB30/BSA for disc brake-Xiamen Iplay Sporting Goods Co.,Ltd.

Second was ICAN sports. Their communication isn't white as clear as xmiplay. They quoted me a cheaper price on their fork. They offered me the one from this frame, the AO109. I'm a little wary that it says 28-32c is the rec tire width.

Not sure which one is the better choice. Any one care to weigh in?


----------



## mrcreosote

rusty904 said:


> Hey folks, visitor from mtbr here. I'm currently building a transition rapture frame up and I'm looking to drop a lb or so by swapping to a carbon fork. The frame has a 44mm headtube so it can run a tapered fork.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had encountered a good manufacturer/vendor that will sell a disc fork separately? Apologies if this topic has been discussed but I could not find it after skimming the thread.
> 
> If anyone has a fork they'd be interested in selling all the better! Thanks for the help.


You could try these guys

CarbonCycles.CC :: Components :: Gallery


----------



## anthro88

Monteiro said:


> Which headset bearing should I use? Semi-integrated or integrated.
> 
> I ordered my FR-602 yesterday but I want to change the original headset for something lighter


Hi, just curious what headset did you end up getting. are there any concerns with the headset that comes with the bike? is it a lot heavier than a crane headset or others? thanks.


----------



## krisdrum

Ok, thinking of venturing into the carbon realm and looking for a bit of a roll call of what I should be considering. Probably sticking with Canti/V-brakes for now.

Looks like we have:
Dengfu FM058
Miracle MC105-v
Hongfu FM266
Ican AC058 & AC108

Any others I am missing? Any to avoid? Any that seem to really shine? 

Obviously geometries are very different, so that is always a consideration.


----------



## ms6073

rusty904 said:


> So I messaged a few vendors and got two responses from vendors willing to sell me forks separately.
> 
> First one was xmiplay.


I have dealt with Peter at Xiamen iPLay and if he has the fork you want in the finish you need in stock, buy it and you should have it in hand in 7-10 working days.


----------



## anthro88

krisdrum said:


> Ok, thinking of venturing into the carbon realm and looking for a bit of a roll call of what I should be considering. Probably sticking with Canti/V-brakes for now.
> 
> Looks like we have:
> Dengfu FM058
> Miracle MC105-v
> Hongfu FM266
> Ican AC058 & AC108
> 
> Any others I am missing? Any to avoid? Any that seem to really shine?
> 
> Obviously geometries are very different, so that is always a consideration.


yes, you are missing FR-602 but this is a Disc brake only


----------



## krisdrum

anthro88 said:


> yes, you are missing FR-602 but this is a Disc brake only


I found the FR-601 yesterday on eBay, which looks different from the other ones I posted. But I can't find much info on it (like who makes it).


----------



## bliz2z

I need your help guys. I'm building my first Cyclocross bike and have internally routed shifter cables. 
The cables leave the frame at the bottom and I have no clue if some cover for the cable is required in order not to damage the frame.













My questions is about the hole where the cables leave the frame. The frame comes with some white thin cable housings that are only there to guide the initial cable I guess? Do I need to use those for something?

Thank you!


----------



## inthesticks

Can you tell us your frame model/make. Some the cable housing runs with the cable through the entire frame.
The white clear housing is for running the cable through the frame, pull it out once you have ran the cable through, save it for when you replace your cables.


----------



## bliz2z

It's a Speedercycling FF-R014 frame. The cable housing definitely doesn't go entirly through the frame as there are housing stoppers (not sure how to call them) at the top.


----------



## inthesticks

I dont think you need anything further "atleast down there" not uncommon for just bare cable under the BB like that, it looks as though your cable may rub a little as it goes through the frame, you can ether get a piece of housing to run it through, but really only if it restricts the movement.


----------



## ms6073

bliz2z said:


> The cables leave the frame at the bottom and I have no clue if some cover for the cable is required in order not to damage the frame.
> View attachment 300970
> View attachment 300971
> 
> My questions is about the hole where the cables leave the frame.


A. Your cable guide would appear to be bolted through the wrong hole as it is not even close to being aligned with the cable exit.
B. Have the cable liners run from the housing stops at the front all the way through the cable guide which will help reduce friction and keep the cables from accumulating dirt and muck!


----------



## fronesis

ms6073 said:


> A. Your cable guide would appear to be bolted through the wrong hole as it is not even close to being aligned with the cable exit.


+1

....


----------



## bliz2z

ms6073 said:


> A. Your cable guide would appear to be bolted through the wrong hole as it is not even close to being aligned with the cable exit.
> B. Have the cable liners run from the housing stops at the front all the way through the cable guide which will help reduce friction and keep the cables from accumulating dirt and muck!


A. Thanks. I fixed that. :thumbsup:
B. I think with the adjusted cable guide the friction is really little. I'll give a try like that.


----------



## bliz2z

Btw here is pic of the current status. Will mount the drive train and disc brakes hopefully during this week.


----------



## jamesstout

hi all, 
i am looking for a fork for my bailey cx frame (the current one is so short i can't hang a brake) i need a 1 1/8 non tapered fork with canti mounts. I cannot seem to find ANYTHING which is not either tapered or disc only. I found a carver fork Carver Bikes 700c Full Carbon Cyclocross Fork 1 1 8 inch Cantilever Brake | eBay but i am sure he has these made by one of the factories and i'd rather save the fee he charges to put stickers on it given that i will take them off as soon as i get the fork! any ideas?


----------



## anthro88

jamesstout said:


> hi all,
> i am looking for a fork for my bailey cx frame (the current one is so short i can't hang a brake) i need a 1 1/8 non tapered fork with canti mounts. I cannot seem to find ANYTHING which is not either tapered or disc only. I found a carver fork Carver Bikes 700c Full Carbon Cyclocross Fork 1 1 8 inch Cantilever Brake | eBay but i am sure he has these made by one of the factories and i'd rather save the fee he charges to put stickers on it given that i will take them off as soon as i get the fork! any ideas?


I would lean towards one of they Hylix on ebay if you are willing to wait, but if you have some extra money, I would buy one of the Easton EC90X, ebay has several ones right now at a great price and bet it will fit you.

btw, my fr-602 fork has an area where the steer tube is a little bit thicker, like they didn't shave some of the carbon, has anyone experience this, it's about 4 inches from the crown, they told me it is normal. it doesn't seem to have any friction but I was a bit concern. is this normal? I can send pictures later


----------



## mrcreosote

jamesstout said:


> hi all,
> i am looking for a fork for my bailey cx frame (the current one is so short i can't hang a brake) i need a 1 1/8 non tapered fork with canti mounts. I cannot seem to find ANYTHING which is not either tapered or disc only. I found a carver fork Carver Bikes 700c Full Carbon Cyclocross Fork 1 1 8 inch Cantilever Brake | eBay but i am sure he has these made by one of the factories and i'd rather save the fee he charges to put stickers on it given that i will take them off as soon as i get the fork! any ideas?


There is also this

Shimano Pro 1 1 8" Full Carbon Cyclo Cross Race CX Fork 700c New | eBay


----------



## ean10775

I've been considering an Ican AC058, mainly because I'd like to just use parts I currently have, including cantis, a BSA bottom bracket and a 130mm spaced rear wheel. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but I haven't found any impressions/reviews of this particular frame. Has anyone here purchased/raced one?


----------



## cx.ger

Its done, almost... there will be some more design in the future.
But i want to share my new mc-150-v with you.
i love it!


----------



## epicmcd

looking good, nice chainring 
The only niggle I have is that the front fork dropouts are so wide, its really easy to loose your qr nut and spring, I've filed some of the lawyer tabs off to try and make it better.


----------



## Corndog

oops wrong thread


----------



## kukusz

krisdrum said:


> Looks like we have:
> Dengfu FM058
> Miracle MC105-v
> Hongfu FM266
> Ican AC058 & AC108


I'm also looking and ran into:

ltk-027
IP-CX01
FM105-V (same as Miracle?)
MT-MC023+MO023

I found more. But my head started to hurt.


----------



## anthro88

shifting problems! internal cable?

I just built my FR-602 and I have some shifting problems and I wonder if running full cable housing would solve the problem. right now I'm using the cable stoppers so it is just the bare wire inside the frame.

the problem:
I have to choose between my large sprocket and small chainring or my small sprocket and large chainring, no matter how carefully I adjust the cable tension I can only get one or the other to work. 

I suspect the problem is with internal cabling, even though when I hold the cable with my hand and shift, it does go throughout all the gears without a problem.

What I have done so far:

derailleur hanger alignment (it had a minor bent), dropout alignment was perfect, new cassette, new chain, tried 3 different rear derailleur that I know they work on other bikes, new cable, housing without any sharp angles, clean and lube internals of sti shifter, B-screw adjustment, limit screw adjustment, etc....

am I missing something?! Please help.

running sram rival shifters and the rest is force with compact chainring, for the rear derailleurs I tried a force, apex, an X7 and X9, all had the same problem after proper tension adjustment, b-screw, limits screws, etc.

this is the first build I ever have problems with.... please help.


----------



## kiwisimon

what size rear cassette are you using? What derailleur are you using and what shifters are you using? Did you buy the whole groupset together or piecemeal? It seems like a full housing has nothing to do with your ability to shift across the range of sprockets. Try this, put the bike in a workstand and then slowly turn the cranks to get the drivetrain spinning. Use your thumb to push the derailleur and see if you can shift across the whole range. Check your chain isn't too short. Whats the capacity of the derailleur? Posting some pics would help. FWIW, maximum cross (Biggest to Biggest or Smallest to Smallest)isn't recommended for shifting performance but you should still be able to get it. Does your shifter chick on the extra gear that you can't get into? A bit more info would help but I don'T think it's a cable problem, check the derailleur and chain. Pics please taken from the side showing the maximum chain stretched position.


----------



## anthro88

maybe I didn't explain the problem well. let me try again:
I'm not trying to do maximum cross but quite the opossite: I can't have the best of the two worlds working on the bike, I have to choose either the 50/12 or the 34/26 gear ratios, I can only get one of the ratios to work without having to adjust the tension again and messing the other one.

I have listed everything that I am using above, all new components. like I said I tried different combination of rear derailleurs (listed above) and all behave the same. I also tried a 11/28 cassette and 11/26 and had the same outcome. the chain is perfect size, not too short or too long.

finally, yes it is not a limit screw problem, I can move into all gears pushing it with my thumb the RD cage regardless of what chainring I am using. So it is definetly something to do with the tension adjustment and not been able to find a happy tension balance when moving into the large chainring and small chainring.

please read carefully my first thread above before replying.

any other thoughts? thanks for the initial thoughts kiwisimon.


----------



## kiwisimon

You can shift the derailleur but it won't shift smoothly even from a 50-12 to a 50-14? If the derailleur is moving across the cassette I think it isn't a cable problem. Is the chain the correct width? you are using an 11 speed rear or 10? What about the shifters, how many speeds? How many cogs can you shift across even if they aren't smooth?


----------



## Erik_A

cx.ger said:


> Its done, almost... there will be some more design in the future.
> But i want to share my new mc-150-v with you.
> i love it!


very nice work cx.ger; what was the total costs all-in? Also what is the weight. The white tires look bad-ass, nice touch.


----------



## anthro88

it a 10 speed system 2x10. chain and everything is 10 speed and new. 

if I adjust the cable tension while in the 50 chainring, I can shift smoothly throughout all the sprokets until I switch to the 34 chainring and then have to readjust the cable tension again, especially if I want to use the 34/26 ratio (granny gear).

the same is true all the way around, if I carefully adjust the tension on the 34 chainring, then when I switch to the 50 chainring, I have to readjust the tension to be able to switch into my 12/50 gear (my biggest gear). maybe is more clear now. 

the problem is "I can't have the best of the two worlds working on the bike, I have to choose either the 50/12 or the 34/26 gear ratios, I can only get one of the ratios to work without having to adjust the tension again and messing the other one."


----------



## Erik_A

anthro88 said:


> it a 10 speed system 2x10. chain and everything is 10 speed and new.
> 
> if I adjust the cable tension while in the 50 chainring, I can shift smoothly throughout all the sprokets until I switch to the 34 chainring and then have to readjust the cable tension especially if I want to use the 34/26 ratio (granny gear). maybe is more clear now.
> 
> the problem is "I can't have the best of the two worlds working on the bike, I have to choose either the 50/12 or the 34/26 gear ratios, I can only get one of the ratios to work without having to adjust the tension again and messing the other one."



If it is for racing cyclocross, I would ditch that gearing. 50 is too big and 34 is too small. I would run 44/ 38 chainrings with a 11-28 or an 11-30 in the rear with a road derailleur. If you decide to put a mountain derailleur in back that an 11-32 is best.


----------



## kiwisimon

anthro88 said:


> it a 10 speed system 2x10. chain and everything is 10 speed and new.
> 
> if I adjust the cable tension while in the 50 chainring, I can shift smoothly throughout all the sprokets until I* switch to the 34 chainring and then have to readjust the cable tension again, especially if I want to use the 34/26 ratio *(granny gear).


What happens if you try and shift into the granny? Does it skip, not move onto the sprocket or what? 

That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The rear derailleur has no idea what is going on up the front of the drive train so the shifting shouldn't be affected. How is the shifting in the middle of the cassette on both chainrings? Who re aligned the derailleur hanger?How much was it out by? Maybe throw this question in the components, wrenching threads, someone may have some ideas.


----------



## anthro88

RD allignmend and dropout alignment check was done by lbs, those the only tools I don't have.

the problem is not completely uncomon for shifting to be one side best than the other. what is uncomon is that you usually can get a sweet spot wiht cable tension to work for both sides. 

the RD cable tension is different when you are in the small or big ring upfront, so it does have something to do with. I will try the forums you mention. thank you.


----------



## kiwisimon

anthro88 said:


> *the RD cable tension is different when you are in the small or big ring upfront,* so it does have something to do with it. I will try the forums you mention. thank you.


This is the first time I have heard or read this. How does the chainring affect the RD cable?


----------



## anthro88

simple, the RD is under different tension due to the force acting on the circumference of a bigger ring. that is why the RD arm moves everytime you move from big ring to small ring. I'm sure seldom brown has a more in depth explanation.


----------



## Monteiro

I had relatively similar problem. Mine was hard to adjust and impossible to have smooth 50 and 34 rings combination with rear gears due to a small chain although everything looked alright. Try adding 2 or 3 more links on your chain and se how it goes. You can also release the chain tensioning screw all the way up in the RD. My gears are smooth now and perfectly synced. Using Red 22 full group with Powercordz and KMC chain


----------



## anthro88

is anyone in this forum with a FR-602 or similar running the internal cables without full housing and just using the cable stoppers?

or 

is everyone using full housing?


----------



## anthro88

Monteiro said:


> I had relatively similar problem. Mine was hard to adjust and impossible to have smooth 50 and 34 rings combination with rear gears due to a small chain although everything looked alright. Try adding 2 or 3 more links on your chain and se how it goes. You can also release the chain tensioning screw all the way up in the RD. My gears are smooth now and perfectly synced. Using Red 22 full group with Powercordz and KMC chain


I did all those things already and was checked by my LBS. the chain is perfect size for the size cassette combination, that is not my problem. I also try using a longer chain but it was more saggy and harder to make it work.

are you using full housing through the frame?


----------



## Monteiro

Yes I am using full housing on my FR-602 And I also replaced the powercordz by shimano dura ace cables because the sticky powercordz were responsible for part of the poor shifting specially when shifting to smaller gears (derailleur returning spring) I would bet your problem is the cables and stoppers instead of full housing as it seems that you have done all the other steps. Just a side note... I never fully trust a LBS They make money on service so even if they are good they will look for some new $$$ services instead of carrying out time consuming checks like this. Reason why I have everything at home and I do the service myself. I have spent lots of money in the past with super bike shops doing very poor job. Not judging yours just mentioning my experience.


----------



## QuattroCreep

anthro88 said:


> if I adjust the cable tension while in the 50 chainring, I can shift smoothly throughout all the sprokets until I switch to the 34 chainring and then have to readjust the cable tension again, especially if I want to use the 34/26 ratio (granny gear).
> 
> the same is true all the way around, if I carefully adjust the tension on the 34 chainring, then when I switch to the 50 chainring, I have to readjust the tension to be able to switch into my 12/50 gear (my biggest gear). maybe is more clear now.


Did you check to see if your cables are crossed in the down tube?

Put the bike in a stand and switch between the 50 and 34 up front while turning the cranks. Watch the RD. Does it shift left and right a little? If so you have some crossed cables.

Pick one to back out of the frame and redo.


----------



## anthro88

Monteiro said:


> Yes I am using full housing on my FR-602 And I also replaced the powercordz by shimano dura ace cables because the sticky powercordz were responsible for part of the poor shifting specially when shifting to smaller gears (derailleur returning spring) I would bet your problem is the cables and stoppers instead of full housing as it seems that you have done all the other steps. Just a side note... I never fully trust a LBS They make money on service so even if they are good they will look for some new $$$ services instead of carrying out time consuming checks like this. Reason why I have everything at home and I do the service myself. I have spent lots of money in the past with super bike shops doing very poor job. Not judging yours just mentioning my experience.


interesting I thought powercordz were always superior. I have shimano dura ace on hand so that is good to know. as far as LBS, there are good honest ones and bad ones in each town. keep in mind they have to pay for rent, pay employees, pay off tools, etc. but I know what you mean. I am a former bike mechanic at one of the LBS so I have excellent relationship with them and the cycling community. I think if you have basic skills, you quickly learn to know who are the overchargers and honest lbs.


----------



## Monteiro

I tried to use Powercordz many times and have to say it was quite disappointing. I even received few cables already damaged in the original packing (fibers exposed). The guys from Fairwheelbikes told me these cables have been a huge headache for them. Installing is not as trick as some people may think just need to do it slowly but the material of the cable is very sticky compared to any steal cable. For short cables without many sharp curves it is not a problem but other than this forget it. Your Dura Ace cables are not light but one of the best around


----------



## ms6073

QuattroCreep said:


> Did you check to see if your cables are crossed in the down tube?


Agree. Regardless of cable choice, if the rear derailleur can be tuned to shift correctly in the small chain ring, but goes out of tune/mis-shifts after shifting to the large chain ring, then the cables are crossed/binding inside the frame.


----------



## anthro88

just a quick update. the problem was cables crossed inside the frame and a rough unfinished job inside the frame with left over mold/bladder material. Here is a picture of it.









two questions for everyone:

1. any of you running internal cables without full housing ???
2. does everyone internal frame looks like this? put a flashlight on either the DI2 hole of the downtube or the bottle cage holes of the downtube and you should be able to see the inside of the frame from the small opening of the bottom bracket, you may need to remove the BB cable track to get a better view and turn off the lights of the room.


----------



## fronesis

anthro88 said:


> 1. any of you running internal cables without full housing ???


I have an FR-602 that I built in August and have about 700 miles on. 

I'm running full-length housing for the BRAKES, because I'm running Jagwire compressionless housing for the disc brakes. 

But for the rear derailleur I'm running a standard setup with NO housing inside the frame: I'm running housing from the controls (Chorus 11) to the cable stop on the down tube, then bare cable inside the frame, then housing outside the chainstay all the way to the rear derailleur (athena 11). This is standard campy cable and housing. 

The bike is literally the best shifting I've ever ridden. The brakes took me a bit to figure out, and I think I under tensioned my wheels when I built them, but I've had no problems at all with the derailleurs (*knock on wood*).


----------



## kiwisimon

anthro88 said:


> View attachment 301505


two questions for everyone:



> 1. any of you running internal cables without full housing ???


yep, just run a length of housing liner over the cable between the cable stops. 


> 2. does everyone internal frame looks like this? put a flashlight on either the DI2 hole of the downtube or the bottle cage holes of the downtube and you should be able to see the inside of the frame from the small opening of the bottom bracket, you may need to remove the BB cable track to get a better view and turn off the lights of the room.


Mine had a few shards hanging off, maybe not as much as you have. It isn't anything to worry about.


----------



## stunzeed

Hey guys, considering the flyxii fr-602 for my winter/commuter. Looks like it has fender holes to which is great. What's the good/bad on this frame? Is the quality good on the matte version?


----------



## Monteiro

Have been using my FR-602 for 3000 km so far mostly training and commuting to work and it's been an amazing ride. Very sturdy, fast and comfortable. When I just finished to build it was light, only 6.4Kg but I was not happy with the TPR brakes and Cerf tires, specially on the many raining days here. I ended up using eletronic shifting Di2 Ultegra, hydro brakes R785 and some real cross tires for a more reliable commuting experience since I recently build a proper training bike. I replaced the fork with the ID-105 model for a stiffer feeling at the front and kept my Rotor Powercrank to be able to train also while commuting and the weight is still reasonable for the specs, 7.7kg. It is a dream machine.


----------



## fronesis

stunzeed said:


> Hey guys, considering the flyxii fr-602 for my winter/commuter. Looks like it has fender holes to which is great. What's the good/bad on this frame? Is the quality good on the matte version?


I've got 750 miles on a FR-602 that I built in September and started riding in late September. So far I am VERY impressed with the overall build quality of the frameset and the road manners of the bike. 

As I mentioned just above, it was my first bike with disc brake and i had some trouble getting them set up correctly, but this was about my limitations as a bike mechanic – there were no problems with the bike. Once I switched to the TRP Spyre brakes, everything was great. 

I'm running a hybrid groupset with Campy Chorus 11s controls, Campy Athena 11s derailleurs, and Ultegra 6800 BB, Crank, Chain, and Cassette. I built up the wheels from BHS parts, with H+Son Archetype rims. My frame is size "57" and the total bike with pedals weighs under 17 lbs. 

I am not running fenders and my frame is gloss, not matt, so I can't speak to those issues. I can say that this is my second FlyXii frameset; both have been great, but the build quality on the FR-602 was noticeably better than the FR-315 I also have. The main difference was the improved internal cable routing, and this bike is therefore MUCH quieter than my 315 (the internal cables rattle on that bike). 

Also, as I mentioned above, this bike shifts better than any bike I've ridden.


----------



## kmancrx

I am planning a build with one of these frames. I think I am going to go with Dengfu. I bought a 29er hardtail from them back in May and I am very pleased with the bike. I am going to build up the disc frame with rival hydraulic and some BHS wheels.


----------



## inthesticks

kmancrx said:


> I am planning a build with one of these frames. I think I am going to go with Dengfu. I bought a 29er hardtail from them back in May and I am very pleased with the bike. I am going to build up the disc frame with rival hydraulic and some BHS wheels.


What size do you need? I built one and really like it, rode it a handful of times just cant race it due to "team rules" so now it sits...I have a vinyl cutter so I made up some graphics and threw them on..easily removed. All components have been removed.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd....9_10204102500427121_2382481880644520284_o.jpg


----------



## kmancrx

inthesticks said:


> What size do you need? I built one and really like it, rode it a handful of times just cant race it due to "team rules" so now it sits...I have a vinyl cutter so I made up some graphics and threw them on..easily removed. All components have been removed.
> https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd....9_10204102500427121_2382481880644520284_o.jpg


Something with a 53 or 54 cm TT What size is yours. PM me.


----------



## Duci

*Carbon disc frame for thru axle*

I'm looking for a cyclocross carbon disc frame for thru axles. I found only one frame: 2015 New cyclocross bike thru axle 142mm-Carbon bike frame,Carbon bike parts,Carbon bicycle frame,Carbon road frame,Carbon MTB frame

Has anyone of you found other frames for thru axles?


----------



## ms6073

Duci said:


> Has anyone of you found other frames for thru axles?


Not a direct answer, but you might find more information in the Chinese 2015 cyclocross bike frame 142mm thru axle over at mtbr.com.


----------



## mosinglespeeder

Hi guys, new to the forum, appreciate the wealth of knowledge around here.

my question is what is the difference between the FR602 and FR603, both disc cx framesets. Geometry appears the same, wt difference is all i see, ~3oogms

any other differences??

thanks


----------



## fronesis

mosinglespeeder said:


> Hi guys, new to the forum, appreciate the wealth of knowledge around here.
> 
> my question is what is the difference between the FR602 and FR603, both disc cx framesets. Geometry appears the same, wt difference is all i see, ~3oogms
> 
> any other differences??
> 
> thanks


I can't spot the difference. The flyxii main website doesn't even have geometry on the FR603. 

I'm guessing just a minor update, and they brought the price down slightly.

I have 1000 miles or so on my FR-602 and it has been the best bike I've ever owned.


----------



## mosinglespeeder

fronesis said:


> I can't spot the difference. The flyxii main website doesn't even have geometry on the FR603.
> 
> I'm guessing just a minor update, and they brought the price down slightly.
> 
> I have 1000 miles or so on my FR-602 and it has been the best bike I've ever owned.



thanks for that

i'm in the midwest, built up a cheapass gravel bike and its heavier than your average 600lb gorilla monster-prob ~26lb, but hey, it was cheap or free from parts in the shed, steel fork, heavy cranks, heavy wheels

so i love the gravel, and am going to buy either the 602 or 603 and build a lite wheelset and put some better cranks in her


thanks for the feedback, seems everyone has had really good luck with them


----------



## mitchy_

to me it looks like they revised the fork shape for the FR-603 so the frame itself is probably still identical. it appears the fork has more of an 'S' curve to it now, rather than bending forwards from the crown.

interesting, as i had a crack develop on my FR-602 fork.

FR-602









FR-603


----------



## Stevereeneo

Just out of curiosity, where on the fork is the crack? Pics?


----------



## snipe

Monteiro said:


> I replaced the fork with the ID-105 model for a stiffer feeling at the front


I looked around for the ID 105 fork but couldn't find it. Where did you find it and how well did it match up to the frame cosmetically and geo.


----------



## snipe

mosinglespeeder said:


> Hi guys, new to the forum, appreciate the wealth of knowledge around here.
> 
> my question is what is the difference between the FR602 and FR603, both disc cx framesets. Geometry appears the same, wt difference is all i see, ~3oogms
> 
> any other differences??
> 
> thanks


I emailed Flyxii about the 603 and got replies back from AnneY. I don't care for curved fork on the 602 and 603 so I asked if there was a straight fork option. She said the forks are straight? Either she's confused or something was lost in translation. She said there are no other cyclocross forks. I also asked for geo sheet on the 603 and got back one jpg for a size with 535mm tt. I asked for geo sheet on a size 56 or thereabouts and was told there is only one size?? So I am not really sure what the story is on the 603.


----------



## ms6073

snipe said:


> I looked around for the ID 105 fork but couldn't find it.


Sounds like this is in reference to the Xiamen iPplay IP 105 fork.


----------



## Monteiro

snipe said:


> I looked around for the ID 105 fork but couldn't find it. Where did you find it and how well did it match up to the frame cosmetically and geo.


The seller told me it is the same fork although you won't find it listed as ID 105 fork. I have almost 4000 km on it and I am very happy I replaced the original one. See the link:

eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321646571278&alt=web


----------



## Monteiro

It matched perfectly with the FR 602 frame and honestly the original 602 fork is ugly IMO.


----------



## intellikat

Reposting from other related threads-- 

I wanted to reach out an make contact with any riders who might find information and reviews on Chinese (or broadly Asian) manufactured components/frames useful.

I'm working in Guangzhou, China (close to Shenzhen) on contract for a few years and in my early days here have been riding local roads/trails, meeting local riders, and finding the LBSes over the past 6 months. A good Chinese friend of mine is a sponsored racer for a Chinese company (Quick) and also works in marketing for WTB. 

He and I have this vision to get info out to our western brothers and sisters using our connections ("guanxi") in the industry here as well as our proximity to a number of the manufacturers. It would be website dedicated to unbiased short- and longterm reviews of products as well as info and images on manufacturers/companies. I know that a number of others have attempted this in abortive blog fashion or in forums, but I don't know of any centralized site/hub online with easy content searching and dialogue for these kind of reviews. We have some really great access to information here and would like to utilize it.

Is a website dedicated to reviews and info on Asian manufactured products (carbon frames, rims, some other components) something anyone would be interested in using if we set it up? We'd be happy to compile requests of manufacturers and products to chase up and provide tech info and reviews.


----------



## ms6073

intellikat said:


> Is a website dedicated to reviews and info on Asian manufactured products (carbon frames, rims, some other components) something anyone would be interested in using if we set it up?


Here in the US, that was the original intent of the Velobuild website. Unfortunately (IMHO) it has evolved into a selling portal for a select number of wholesalers who agree to pay commissions to the site owner for all products sold. Worse than that, the sites forums originally afforded some nice content and reviews but quickly become so severely moderated that reviews of non-Velobuild products and adverse content were deleted and the offending posters is banned!


----------



## intellikat

ms6073 said:


> Here in the US, that was the original intent of the Velobuild website. Unfortunately (IMHO) it has evolved into a selling portal for a select number of wholesalers who agree to pay commissions to the site owner for all products sold. Worse than that, the sites forums originally afforded some nice content and reviews but quickly become so severely moderated that reviews of non-Velobuild products and adverse content were deleted and the offending posters is banned!


I didn't know Velobuild was once more review-oriented. I've only known them as (their being) a seller. We'd like to keep it a simplified version of mtbr, bikeradar, etc.


----------



## megl

intellikat said:


> Is a website dedicated to reviews and info on Asian manufactured products (carbon frames, rims, some other components) something anyone would be interested in using if we set it up? We'd be happy to compile requests of manufacturers and products to chase up and provide tech info and reviews.


That would be incredible useful to many many people!!


----------



## Cross_Reference

So I'm new here but I'm very aware of the whole chinese carbon community. I've been watching people buy, build and ride their chinese-made frames for about 2 years now, so I've built up a solid knowledge base should I ever come to build one up. Well that time has come! My Genesis Vapour has worn itself out after 3 hard years of riding and I've just received my yearly bonus, so there's never been a better excuse for a rebuild. I was in between the Dengfu FM058 and Miracle MC105-V frames and at first I was leaning for the FM058 as the wheelbase seemed a bit longer for the same size, however they weren't in stock so I opted for the MC105-V. It's currently awaiting shipping, so I'll keep you guys updated on the build as I go. It should be good once it's built!


----------



## alfons

I have recently finished building my cyclocross/commuter based on a fr 602 from Flyxii. It has got a Campa Chorus/Athena 11s mix, TRP Hy/Rd brakes and wheels from Gunsha. I am pretty pleased with how the bike rides, it is comfortable and everthing feels very solid. I run it with fenders and currenty there are still studded tyres on the wheels. I have not weighed it yet, but I guess it will go well below 8 kg wih the summer set up on light racing tyres.

However,...the only thing I have a kind of trouble with is the front derailleur. In my opinion shifting from the small to the big gearwheel (?) is too hard. Does anybody have a similar experience?


----------



## totocaster

Hello, my fist post here.

I just received FR-602 for my cyclocross commuter/training bike build. Looks nice, tag heavier than advertised and didn't include headset for some reason. I guess this kind of service is what you are paying for. Anyhow, quite excited to get all other remaining part and build it. Meanwhile if you are interested in any shots, features feel free to ask or request photos. Glad to help.

Have a nice weekend,
Toto.

UPDATE: Just received message from seller that they'll re-send headset. Nice.


----------



## alfons

Hello totocaster,
I did not get the headset at first neither and had to wait for a couple of weeks....:-/
Anyway, I have been doing around 1300 km on my fr-602 so far (mostly commuting) and I really like this bike. However, in my opinion direct cable routing at the BB results into too sharp cable bends thus negatively affecting shift and brake performances. As a consequence I have the cables outside the frame from the BB. I am interested in hearing your experience....
Alfons


----------



## totocaster

Hello alfons,

Yes, I still have not received headset and few other bits to complete build. Will report on those. However I decided to build 1x Di2 build with new XRT RD (which I'm still researching on compatibility and potential issues). From what I see on the frame, break cables require to be in housing for full length of the frame. I got compressionless housing (TPR also recompense to do that on HY-RD), so let's see. 

I'm also wondering how to close non-used internal cabling holes.


----------



## alfons

totocaster said:


> I'm also wondering how to close non-used internal cabling holes.


 Well..I used black tape...not the most elegant solution....but the frame is black anyway...

When I tried to thread the rear brake cable through the housing, it got stuck at the BB,...thus I had to take the housing, which goes from the BB to the brake, out of the frame again, thread the cable and then put the housing again into the frame. However, braking with the rear brake was much more effort then braking with the front brake, thus my decision to have the housing outside the frame from the BB on. Now, braking with the rear brake is as easy as with the front brake. Consequently, I did the same with the housing for the rear derailleur, however, difference in shift perfomance was only minor.


----------



## alfons

Hi Totocaster,
how is your bike build going?


----------



## Savedsol

Sizing for the FR602 - is the 53 the best size for a 5'10" guy (more torso than leg)? Currently riding a '04 Giant TCR in Medium, '10 Specialized Epic in Medium. Wife's '14 Ridley X-Fire 50cm is nice but a tad small (Ridley suggests the 52cm for my height).

Thanks.


----------



## totocaster

Sorry for not replying earlier. I'm still collecting parts. Few weeks and I'll have everything. Tomorrow is a big day, I'm getting a groupset. After doing research for quite a while, I dropped idea of 1X and decided to go with standard 6870 groupset sans breaks (I already have HY-RD breaks). SRAM is stupid expensive here in Japan. Di2 Ultregra costs same.


----------



## alfons

I do not know whether you have already bought the brakes, but my friend has the 2014 Ultergra with hydraulic brakes on her cx which are WAY better than my HyRd brakes (which are still good brakes...)


----------



## totocaster

alfons said:


> I do not know whether you have already bought the brakes, but my friend has the 2014 Ultergra with hydraulic brakes on her cx which are WAY better than my HyRd brakes (which are still good brakes...)


I did. I know that pure hydraulics are more powerful, but HYRDs should be enough and fine. 

Actually I do have question regarding breaks, do you use 160mm rotors? In case yes, did you need 20mm post-post adapter?


----------



## alfons

The 602 frame takes 160 mm rotors for both the front and the rear brake (withtout adapter)


----------



## hill_reaper

doing a spare parts SSCX build. Want to get an FR-601 so I can mount fenders and run v-brakes. Getting BB30 to run an eccentric bb. 
Where is best place to order it from? Anyone have a good experience with a brand? Also can't seem to find them for less than $400+ship. Any better deals out there?


----------



## hill_reaper

doing a spare parts SSCX build. Want to get an FR-601 so I can mount fenders and run v-brakes. Getting BB30 to run an eccentric bb. 
Where is best place to order it from? Anyone have a good experience with a company? Also can't seem to find them for less than $400+ship. Any better deals out there?


----------



## alfons

I bought my fr-602 frameset from cbfstore on ebay. Communication was ok, delievery took ages because the glossy version of the frame was not available right away. Then they did not send me the head set...after 3 months or so I finally had everything together. So far I have bicycled 2500 km on the 602 both on- and offroad. It is not 100% perfect but not far from........and I really like the glossy carbon look although this is a matter of taste.


----------



## Glud

Hey guys! Thanks for all the great stories, pictures and info! I've just received my FR-602. Took 3 days to reach Denmark but was held back at the import-duty-office for a couple of weeks. Anyway, I have a question regarding disc brakes: can I use any type of caliper or does it have to be road-specific types? Can't really figure out the difference between road and mtb editions other than that most road-specific brake levers are made for drop bars.

Thanks 😄


----------



## alfons

If you use a drop bar, you have to use a road specific disc brake, because the pull is different between road and mtb levers.


----------



## Glud

alfons said:


> If you use a drop bar, you have to use a road specific disc brake, because the pull is different between road and mtb levers.


Thanks for your quick reply! I'm going to use a flat bar for my build since it's going to be my commuter bike. Does that mean that I'll be able to use MTB-specific brakes?


----------



## fronesis

Glud said:


> Thanks for your quick reply! I'm going to use a flat bar for my build since it's going to be my commuter bike. Does that mean that I'll be able to use MTB-specific brakes?


The key issue is the brake levers. If you are using MTB levers on your flat bars (as I'm guessing you are), then you'll want to use MTB calipers. Match the type of calipers with the type of levers.


----------



## Glud

fronesis said:


> The key issue is the brake levers. If you are using MTB levers on your flat bars (as I'm guessing you are), then you'll want to use MTB calipers. Match the type of calipers with the type of levers.


Awesome! Thanks, fronesis! :thumbsup:
How about gears? Would that be doable with MTB-parts? I'm thinking about going with a 1x9 setup which is quit common in the MTB-world.

Based on my questions, you might be wondering why the hell I'm trying to build my own bike up from the ground. The answer would be that I'm considering this an experiment and most of all a learning process


----------



## SpaceRnglr

alfons said:


> If you use a drop bar, you have to use a road specific disc brake, because the pull is different between road and mtb levers.


If I am not mistaken the FR602 has disc brakes. If so and you plan to run flat bars do yourself a favor and just get Shimano SLX hydraulic disc brakes. I got fed up with BB7 brakes on my commuter and upgraded about a month ago. There was a time when hydro disc brakes were heavier, more expensive and hard to set up, but the Shimano brakes are just great. They come in a set so you get the brakes, hose and levers in set that is pre-bled. I didn't even have to bleed them after cutting the hose (i was careful not to let much oil drip out...). They only other thing you need will be the actual discs...

Best of luck.


----------



## Glud

SpaceRnglr said:


> If I am not mistaken the FR602 has disc brakes. If so and you plan to run flat bars do yourself a favor and just get Shimano SLX hydraulic disc brakes. I got fed up with BB7 brakes on my commuter and upgraded about a month ago. There was a time when hydro disc brakes were heavier, more expensive and hard to set up, but the Shimano brakes are just great. They come in a set so you get the brakes, hose and levers in set that is pre-bled. I didn't even have to bleed them after cutting the hose (i was careful not to let much oil drip out...). They only other thing you need will be the actual discs...


Thanks for the tip! I'll be looking for a pair of Shimano brakes then. Been quit happy with their performance on my MTB too. I do think though that I have to bleed them again since I have to run the hose through the frame (the FR602 frame has internal cable routing). I have no experience when it comes to bleed hydraulic brakes so I might let my LBS handle that part.


----------



## pontoon

What's the max tire width this frame can handle while using fenders such as SKS longboards?


----------



## Glud

Alrigth, alright, alright... Got all parts yesterday for my FR602 commuter build and then I notice this dent in seat tube near the BB. Guess this ain't right?
Furthermore, my frame doesn't have mounting points for fenders. Or well, the points are clearly visible but they are not threaded. Bummer. 
Guess I not as lucky with my FR602 as you guys


----------



## fronesis

Glud said:


> Alrigth, alright, alright... Got all parts yesterday for my FR602 commuter build and then I notice this dent in seat tube near the BB. Guess this ain't right?


That's totally normal. My FR-602 has it as well.


----------



## pontoon

Flyxii is telling me they don't have 53 in matte even though they told me just the other day that they do =/. Also wondering if I might have to cancel this order is there a BB86 alternative to the FR-602? Looking for fender mounts, good tire clearance, small-ish bb drop.

Also what is the max tire size with fenders and 700C wheels?


----------



## blend76

Hi guys,
What are your experiences as far as tire clearance goes. I was hoping I could find a frame that could fit 40-42mm 700c (and maybe even 2,1" 650b) tires.

Rox


----------



## alfons

Hi,
regarding tyre clearance: as shown in the picture above from 04-03-2015 the frame takes easily 35 mm tyres with fenders. My current cross tyres measure 39 mm and there is plenty of space.

So far I have biked around 4500 km on the fr 602. Just recently the seat post cracked and the stemm does no longer hold the handlebar firmly....both items are from Fliixy....:-(
Otherwise, I REALLY like the bike, but time will show its quality....


----------



## pontoon

What's the best headset for FR602? For price vs grams (not too expensive not too heavy)? I have the included one now--not sure it's any good. Feels heavy but not sure (no scale). I did get the extralite expander but not sure how to use that. Should I get a different headset or use the included one?


----------



## chestercospinner

New to the forum not new to MTB or CX. Picked up a Flyxii-602, delivered to PA, USA in 7 days!!! I did not receive a headset but the frame looks great. Plan to post the completed build. Quick component summary: i9 UL CX wheelset, force cx 1 group set/hydraulic disc, token tk 070 headset, UNO 100mm stem and seat post. Still deciding on drop bar. 

Question, will the 602 accommodate the hydraulic brake line via the internal routing? In other words, std. diameter brake line will fit through the access holes?


----------



## tlg

chestercospinner said:


> New to the forum not new to MTB or CX. Picked up a Flyxii-602, delivered to PA, USA in 7 days!!! I did not receive a headset but the frame looks great. Plan to post the completed build. Quick component summary: i9 UL CX wheelset, force cx 1 group set/hydraulic disc, token tk 070 headset, UNO 100mm stem and seat post. Still deciding on drop bar.
> 
> Question, will the 602 accommodate the hydraulic brake line via the internal routing? In other words, std. diameter brake line will fit through the access holes?


Ha.. I'm in PA too. I just built up this frame a few weeks ago. No problem running hydraulic lines. 
Look forward to seeing your build.

My build
Chinese Carbon Thread and Ebay direct version 7.0 - Page 7
Chinese Carbon Thread and Ebay direct version 7.0 - Page 8
Post up your disc brake equipped road bikes. - Page 4


----------



## alfons

I had to drill the plastic caps that sit on the holes of the frame in order to enable full internal routing (mechanic braking).


----------



## chestercospinner

Thanks both, I'm willing to file some if needed, hopefully won't need to. I suspect the build to be competed and a ride review provided in a few weeks.


----------



## Glud

Hi again!
Finally finished my FR602 commuter build after some trail and error + a lot of tweaking. First bike I've built from scratch and I'm pretty damn satisfied! 

Everything went quite well except for a few things, especially the hydraulic brake line for the rear. It was just a pain in the butt to pull through the frame!
I ordered the frame (size 51 with headset incl.), seatpost, seat clamp, handlebar and stem from zgr9 on eBay. Everything arrived in Denmark in only 3 days (!!), but stayed in the tax office for another wooping 22 days (!!) since the invoice wasn't included in the box.

As for the frame quality, I'm really amazed. It's light, stiff and well made. There are few things, though, that I'm not so happy about. First comes the headset (surprise): I'm really don't like the way the top cap is attached since it doesn't compress the stack of bearings, spacers and stem. That's because it's not a regular starnut, but some sort expander-nut instead. Yesterday my fork started shaking like crazy when i pulled the front brake, which I later found out was because there was a lot of slack in the headset (the fork is able to "wiggle" inside the headset). So I think I'm gonna ditch the Flyxii headset and find one with a starnut instead. Any suggestions? 
The second thing I'm not really happy about is the lack of fender mount for the rear wheel since it's my commuter bike. I think I saw someone in this thread reporting that the frame indeed had fender mounts but I guess I just wasn't as lucky. There's actually a spot marked out on the frame for where the threaded hole is supposed to be. Anyway, I my plan B ended up being a pair of Crud RoadRacer MKII. It's a thight fit with my 622-28 tires, but I'll managed until I come across a better solution.

Apart from the few not so cool things, I really love the bike. The first few rides to work gave me goosebumps. It's currently set up with 1x10 gearing powered by Shimano ZEE crank, shifter and rear derailleur. After the first week on it I'm quite sure I messed up my calculations regarding gear ratio. Currently I'm running a 42t chainring and a 11-36 cassette and I never use the 3-4 lowest gears even though my way to work is one 4.5 mile lone climb. As you properly figured, I'm spinning out of gears on my way home. The conclusion is that I really didn't think it through when I went with at 104 BCD crank since it's pretty hard to find a compatible chainring any larger than 42t.

So that's about it. Feel free to ask me about it if you want 
Beneath is a few photos from the build process.

_All parts have arrived!_


_Since the weather was nice, I moved outside to continue the build._


_​Almost there - just a rough assembly because I couldn't wait to see what it would look like._

_Done!_


----------



## tlg

Glud said:


> Hi again!
> Finally finished my FR602 commuter build after some trail and error + a lot of tweaking. First bike I've built from scratch and I'm pretty damn satisfied!
> 
> Everything went quite well except for a few things, especially the hydraulic brake line for the rear. It was just a pain in the butt to pull through the frame!


What exactly was a pain? Mine was pretty easy.



> First comes the headset (surprise): I'm really don't like the way the top cap is attached since it doesn't compress the stack of bearings, spacers and stem. That's because it's not a regular starnut, but some sort expander-nut instead. Yesterday my fork started shaking like crazy when i pulled the front brake, which I later found out was because there was a lot of slack in the headset (the fork is able to "wiggle" inside the headset). So I think I'm gonna ditch the Flyxii headset and find one with a starnut instead. Any suggestions?


Do *NOT *use a starnut! Star nuts are not for carbon steerer tubes. I don't think you tightened the expander nut before installing the adjusting screw. The expander nut will get plenty tight.



> Beneath is a few photos from the build process.


Beautiful photos.


----------



## pontoon

Anyone have thoughts on how to mount a fender to FR-602? The bottom part is easy enough, but what about up top? In the pics below, the rack isn't level, but it shows all the parts currently involved. I need a place to attach the rack near the seat stays. If the rack were level the rod would want to connect higher, kind of near that opening in the seat stays above the rear wheel. 

There is a threaded hole for fender mounting. The rod wants to go higher than it is pictured here when the rack is level.

View attachment 309017


Second pic just shows that the rod can be rotated.
View attachment 309018


Can I just put the rod through the seatpost clamp bolt?


----------



## Monteiro

pontoon said:


> What's the best headset for FR602? For price vs grams (not too expensive not too heavy)? I have the included one now--not sure it's any good. Feels heavy but not sure (no scale). I did get the extralite expander but not sure how to use that. Should I get a different headset or use the included one?


I used the Token heggset. Light, good quality and good looking set. Just replaced the star nut with the extralight like you did.


----------



## anthro88

Is anyone using the TRP hy/rd brakes on the FR602? I'm running a full hosing for the rear brake. the caliper doesn't retract as smooth and there is quite a bit of friction. I fully lubricated the cable housing and cable. I suspect the problem might be that the caliper has very little clearance for where the brake cable comes out of the frame and there is too much tension. any other thoughts? I've never had a problem like this before.

any tips on how I can remove some of the friction on the rear cable? thank you!


----------



## Monteiro

anthro88 said:


> Is anyone using the TRP hy/rd brakes on the FR602? I'm running a full hosing for the rear brake. the caliper doesn't retract as smooth and there is quite a bit of friction. I fully lubricated the cable housing and cable. I suspect the problem might be that the caliper has very little clearance for where the brake cable comes out of the frame and there is too much tension. any other thoughts? I've never had a problem like this before.
> 
> any tips on how I can remove some of the friction on the rear cable? thank you!


Had the same issue and tried everything without success. Shimano cables, KCNC, Powercords. Oil, special grease, powder lub etc. Best result was with the sram cables with little white grease but still not what I wanted. Ended up replacing the whole group to Di2 hydro and couldn't be happier. Threw the Sram on my road. I think the internal design of the 602 does not help the cable to move freely. With cables the best you can try is a housing and cable combo from same brand like Sram or shimano


----------



## tlg

anthro88 said:


> Is anyone using the TRP hy/rd brakes on the FR602? I'm running a full hosing for the rear brake. the caliper doesn't retract as smooth and there is quite a bit of friction. I fully lubricated the cable housing and cable. I suspect the problem might be that the caliper has very little clearance for where the brake cable comes out of the frame and there is too much tension. any other thoughts? I've never had a problem like this before.
> 
> any tips on how I can remove some of the friction on the rear cable? thank you!


I could see how that could be a problem. I'm running hydraulic on my FR602 and the rear brake was a tough bend for the hose. If they would've just moved the port 1" forward it'd be a lot better.

Two thoughts. For running full length cables you could remove the port cover. Or drill out the hole larger. It'd give you a little more cable flexibility.
Use Jagwire Link housing. It's pretty flexible. Upgrade your Cables with Jagwire?s New Elite Road and MTB Kits


----------



## alfons

anthro88 said:


> Is anyone using the TRP hy/rd brakes on the FR602? I'm running a full hosing for the rear brake. the caliper doesn't retract as smooth and there is quite a bit of friction. I fully lubricated the cable housing and cable. I suspect the problem might be that the caliper has very little clearance for where the brake cable comes out of the frame and there is too much tension. any other thoughts? I've never had a problem like this before.
> 
> any tips on how I can remove some of the friction on the rear cable? thank you!


I had the same problem. The best thing is to route the cables outside the frame from the BB to the break. 
If you use Campa (or also Sram I have heard) the cable pull does not harmonize with TRP HyRd. It is a neverending story of adjustment. I have already ordered Juin R1 brakes....


----------



## chestercospinner

Flyxii FR-602 build went great, running the rear brake line through frame was annoying but not impossible. So second ride in I severed the cheap alloy derailleur hanger. I ordered a few more direct from Flyxii... but anyone know of a steel hanger option out there for the FR-602? Wheels mfg perhaps?


----------



## garyhgaryh

*AC-059 Frame from icanbikes*

I bought an AC-059 frame from icanbikes. Anyone have this frame? 

I bought OEM brakes - Shimano XT M785 and SRAM Guide (basic). I think I'll stick with the Shimano M785. However, I bought the brakes (OEM) not in retail box so they are all pre-bled and I want to run the cables through the internal routing ports. What's the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of disconnecting the hose from the brake handle component, plug up the hole so the mineral oil does not escape and run the wires up from the rear up to the fork. Any tips and tricks to make this easier?

Here is my build so far:


----------



## tlg

chestercospinner said:


> Flyxii FR-602 build went great, running the rear brake line through frame was annoying but not impossible. So second ride in I severed the cheap alloy derailleur hanger. I ordered a few more direct from Flyxii... but anyone know of a steel hanger option out there for the FR-602? Wheels mfg perhaps?


Hangers are meant to bend/break. If you use a steel one and something goes wrong you'll destroy your frame and/or derailleur.


----------



## tlg

garyhgaryh said:


> What's the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of disconnecting the hose from the brake handle component, plug up the hole so the mineral oil does not escape and run the wires up from the rear up to the fork. Any tips and tricks to make this easier?


Once you disconnect the hose you'll introduce air into the system. Thus you must bleed the brakes when you get it back together. 
Might as well drain the oil out and save the hassle of trying to plug up the hose and have oil leak everywhere.


----------



## chestercospinner

A steel hanger is too strong... brain fart on my part. Any 6061 aluminum options out there, *anyone know of a wheels mfg hanger that will fit the FR-602?*. If i don't get a response, I'll shoot wheels a few picks/dimensions see if they can recommend one (not the first time I've done that) to help my fellow fr602 riders.


----------



## tlg

chestercospinner said:


> A steel hanger is too strong... brain fart on my part. Any 6061 aluminum options out there, *anyone know of a wheels mfg hanger that will fit the FR-602?*. If i don't get a response, I'll shoot wheels a few picks/dimensions see if they can recommend one (not the first time I've done that) to help my fellow fr602 riders.


Where and how did your hanger break?

I don't now of a compatible hanger but I'm sure it's a standard size. Sending a pic to wheels is probably your best bet. You could try here too DerailleurHanger.com


----------



## garyhgaryh

tlg said:


> Once you disconnect the hose you'll introduce air into the system. Thus you must bleed the brakes when you get it back together.
> Might as well drain the oil out and save the hassle of trying to plug up the hose and have oil leak everywhere.


I think that's my best bet after thinking it over.


----------



## chestercospinner

Nick @ Wheels Mfg confirmed the *#148 hanger will fit the fr-602*. I suppose that means it will also fit the following flyxii frames: FR-315, FR-322, FR-316, FR-319, FR-308 and FR-601, since these all take the same hanger. Hanger ordered, will confirm when its mounted up. 

@tlg. I picked up a 2" diameter x 2' sorta soft rotted branch. Hard to say the way the rear tire grabbed it as I was night riding but it I could definitely feel myself pedaling it into jamming position but I also reacted quickly to stop but the hanger split with very little effort. Snapped high up almost flush with bottom of drop out, which not surprisingly is also the skinniest section of the hanger. Here's hoping the 148 works cause the alloy is next to useless (IMO) if you plan to spin forested trail.


----------



## tlg

chestercospinner said:


> Nick @ Wheels Mfg confirmed the *#148 hanger will fit the fr-602*. I suppose that means it will also fit the following flyxii frames: FR-315, FR-322, FR-316, FR-319, FR-308 and FR-601, since these all take the same hanger. Hanger ordered, will confirm when its mounted up.


Thanks. Good to know.



> @tlg. I picked up a 2" diameter x 2' sorta soft rotted branch. Hard to say the way the rear tire grabbed it as I was night riding but it I could definitely feel myself pedaling it into jamming position but I also reacted quickly to stop but the hanger split with very little effort. Snapped high up almost flush with bottom of drop out, which not surprisingly is also the skinniest section of the hanger. Here's hoping the 148 works cause the alloy is next to useless (IMO) if you plan to spin forested trail.


They're all alloy. Your hanger wasn't useless. It performed perfectly. If it didn't break, you'd probably be looking to buy a new frame or RD.


----------



## garyhgaryh

Here's an unboxing of the frame and fork.

https://youtu.be/9ghI71ca3DA

Gary



garyhgaryh said:


> I bought an AC-059 frame from icanbikes. Anyone have this frame?
> 
> I bought OEM brakes - Shimano XT M785 and SRAM Guide (basic). I think I'll stick with the Shimano M785. However, I bought the brakes (OEM) not in retail box so they are all pre-bled and I want to run the cables through the internal routing ports. What's the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of disconnecting the hose from the brake handle component, plug up the hole so the mineral oil does not escape and run the wires up from the rear up to the fork. Any tips and tricks to make this easier?
> 
> Here is my build so far:


----------



## spsoon

Hi folks,

I wonder if anyone with an FM059 frame can provide a real-world horizontal top-tube measurement. I've looked at the geometry chart, but the top tube numbers given seem crazy short.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## St. Urho

I have a Pedal Force CX2 frame that I bought in 2013. I bent the derailleur hanger and need a new one. Pedal Force doesn't have one listed on their site and they haven't replied to my emails. Anybody know of a derailleur hanger I can use?


----------



## CXcurious

*Building CX/Urban 10-speed.*

I have been riding a Trek Portland for a while now, and am looking to build a peppier commuter/CX disc brake bike with single chain ring. I hardly even use 2 of 3 on my Portland, so I want to build a minimalist 10 speed. As a side goal, I wouldn't mind the functionality of converting it to a single speed cyclocross bike on the odd occasion.

The FR-602 seems to be a very popular frame from what I have read, so I leaning towards it. I wouldn't mind with an end result such as this.

I'll be riding it with regular road tires, but I plan to toss on some cross tires for off-road outings.

I'm 6', and my Trek is a size 56. I'm contemplating ordering the 57, but am not entirely sure. I tried out an online fit calculator (competitivecyclist website), and got these results. So 57 might be a tad too much, but not as silly as the 51 listed by flyxii. Should I email them to see if they'll have a different size anytime soon?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## tlg

CXcurious said:


> I have been riding a Trek Portland for a while now, and am looking to build a peppier commuter/CX disc brake bike with single chain ring. I hardly even use 2 of 3 on my Portland, so I want to build a minimalist 10 speed. As a side goal, I wouldn't mind the functionality of converting it to a single speed cyclocross bike on the odd occasion.
> 
> The FR-602 seems to be a very popular frame from what I have read, so I leaning towards it. I wouldn't mind with an end result such as this.
> 
> I'll be riding it with regular road tires, but I plan to toss on some cross tires for off-road outings.
> 
> I'm 6', and my Trek is a size 56. I'm contemplating ordering the 57, but am not entirely sure. I tried out an online fit calculator (competitivecyclist website), and got these results. So 57 might be a tad too much, but not as silly as the 51 listed by flyxii. Should I email them to see if they'll have a different size anytime soon?
> 
> Any advice is greatly appreciated.


I'm 5'9". My other road bikes are 54,55,&56. I got my FR602 in a 55. It's pretty close to a 56. I did an overlay of the geometries. The green is my Supersix which is a 56 and the black is the FR602 in a 55. Hope that helps.

Here's my build. I'm running it as a road bike with road tires but wanted the option to take it offroad on gravel and trails as well.
Unboxing
Final Build


----------



## CXcurious

tlg said:


> I'm 5'9". My other road bikes are 54,55,&56. I got my FR602 in a 55. It's pretty close to a 56. I did an overlay of the geometries. The green is my Supersix which is a 56 and the black is the FR602 in a 55. Hope that helps.
> 
> Here's my build. I'm running it as a road bike with road tires but wanted the option to take it offroad on gravel and trails as well.
> 
> Unboxing
> 
> Final Build


I have been reading up on this quite a bit, including this CX thread and the road one, so I have already seen your fantastic build.

May I ask what your inseam length is? Mine is 32, and I have a very optimal clearance over the 56 Portland top tube. I'm not worried about the more aggressive top tube length, but I really don't want to get sacked.

Thanks for helping out.


----------



## tlg

CXcurious said:


> I have been reading up on this quite a bit, including this CX thread and the road one, so I have already seen your fantastic build.
> 
> May I ask what your inseam length is?


Mine is 31"


----------



## CXcurious

tlg said:


> Mine is 31"


Thanks. I measured the crank center to top of top tube on my portland, and it's 51cm. From the drafts of the 602 (center of image), the "L" dimension of the 55 is 512mm, almost perfectly the dimensions of the Portland.

At least I'm now confident with buying the 55. Did you order just the frame and fork from china? In your opinion, do you think I should order from the flyxii site, or ebay?


----------



## tlg

CXcurious said:


> At least I'm now confident with buying the 55. Did you order just the frame and fork from china? In your opinion, do you think I should order from the flyxii site, or ebay?


I got the frame and fork on ebay. That's my preference as you get some buyer protection from ebay and paypal. 
I tried contacting directly through flyxii website for information and did not get a warm fuzzy feeling with their responses. 
This is where I got mine. Took 4 days shipping from order to my doorstep.
Motorcycle Cover, Bike Frame items in zgr9 store on eBay!


----------



## krisdrum

CXcurious said:


> Thanks. I measured the crank center to top of top tube on my portland, and it's 51cm. From the drafts of the 602 (center of image), the "L" dimension of the 55 is 512mm, almost perfectly the dimensions of the Portland.
> 
> At least I'm now confident with buying the 55. Did you order just the frame and fork from china? In your opinion, do you think I should order from the flyxii site, or ebay?


Seat tube length has very little impact on fit. DON'T buy a frame by just matching up ST length. Compare effective top tube length and ST angle (assuming you don't have reach and stack numbers for both frames) to compare and contrast. 1 degree difference in STA will impact reach to the bars by ~ 1cm +/- (slacker the STA, the more it pulls your reach back, given a constant ETT).

I have found alot of the asian frames have long top tubes given their other geometry specs. Or at least longer than I am looking for often.


----------



## CXcurious

tlg said:


> I got the frame and fork on ebay. That's my preference as you get some buyer protection from ebay and paypal.
> I tried contacting directly through flyxii website for information and did not get a warm fuzzy feeling with their responses.
> This is where I got mine. Took 4 days shipping from order to my doorstep.
> Motorcycle Cover, Bike Frame items in zgr9 store on eBay!


These ebay stores seem quite fluid in their location, existence, and quality. I'll probably try to hunt a frame down in mid-January. That way, I won't have to deal with total holiday/new year shut down.

I got my disc brake road bike long before the boom in popularity of that design. Looks like I'll save up to build a hydraulic disc brake road/cyclocross bike to stay keep-up with future designs.



krisdrum said:


> Seat tube length has very little impact on fit. DON'T buy a frame by just matching up ST length. Compare effective top tube length and ST angle (assuming you don't have reach and stack numbers for both frames) to compare and contrast. 1 degree difference in STA will impact reach to the bars by ~ 1cm +/- (slacker the STA, the more it pulls your reach back, given a constant ETT).
> 
> I have found alot of the asian frames have long top tubes given their other geometry specs. Or at least longer than I am looking for often.


STA is the same as my current bike. The TT is more flat on this size 55 FR602, so getting sacked is a real worry, that's why I'm focusing on the stand-over height, which is near identical to my 56 Trek.

In the end, even if I could manage with a 57 frame, I'll have a more modular capabilities with a 55. Thanks for the concern though.


----------



## bugly64

*Fm105-d*

This frame is on it's way from Shenzhen TanTan Sports Equipment Ltd. via AliExpress

Ultegra CX hydraulic groupset and Fizik seat and seatpost are waiting patiently

The hubs are going to be laced to some H Sons Archetype rims soon. I don't know what handlebars or stem I am going to use yet.


----------



## bikerjulio

Call me a luddite, but I just built up a Chinese frame as a gravel bike, and didn't go disk 

ICAN AC058 in 57 cm size.

Pretty decent weights - frame 1080 g, fork uncut 450 g.









link Cyclocross Bike Frame 57cm Black Carbon Fiber BSA Cantilever Brake Fork | eBay

as built


----------



## bugly64

bikerjulio said:


> call me a luddite, but i just built up a chinese frame as a gravel bike, and didn't go disk
> 
> Ican ac058 in 57 cm size.
> 
> Pretty decent weights - frame 1080 g, fork uncut 450 g.
> 
> View attachment 313729
> 
> 
> link cyclocross bike frame 57cm black carbon fiber bsa cantilever brake fork | ebay
> 
> as built
> 
> View attachment 313730


omg!!!!


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Hello Everyone, 

I've been humming and hawing about ordering one of these frames for a road bike for ages when my steel commuter frame finally gave up the ghost and cracked at the bottom bracket. It's about 7 years old. Steel may be real, but it also fails really well too. 










The main driver for buying carbon in my case is the resistance to corrosion. I spent a good part of my life living on boats and worked with a lot of fiberglass and I can honestly say fiber reinforced polymer is the best thing going when it comes to salt and water. Even though I only use this commuter when there is no snow on the ground and I currently live in a pretty dry climate, there can still be quite a bit of salt and sand on the road in the shoulder seasons and as you can see above, it took its toll. If I get 5 years out of this frame I'll be pretty happy, I'm pretty hard on my commuters generally so I don't expect it to last forever. 

I do also occasionally race in our fall Cyclocross series and the idea of shedding some weight also appeals to me. This new frame and fork should weigh about 2 kg less than my old set up and I think the new bike with the lighter wheels should be close to 4 kg lighter. I'm not usually a gram counter, but 4 kg is a lot of weight.

So I ordered a FR-602 and some carbon rims to build up, got it custom painted and I am now not so patiently awaiting delivery. I can't wait to post some pics and let you know how it goes.


----------



## ms6073

Somewhat of a topic drift and I think this question has been raised before, but I noticed Fezzari is updating there road lineup with the addition of the Shafer gravel road bike. Pretty sure these are private label versions of the same open mold frames were are discussing, so does anyone know the manufacturer from where Fezzari sources frames?


----------



## LanterneRouge14

*Stoke for Angle Sport AG038*

Two years ago, I read a ton about direct-from-China carbon frames on here and mtbr.com, and had narrowed my choices down to Flyxxi's FR-602 (link to current FR-603 here), Speedercycling's FF-R014 (link to FFR014 here), and Miracle's/Ican's open mold of Fuji's Altamira (link to defunct AC098 here). 

But I had to put my carbon 'cross bike project on the back burner, since I had to use my savings to replace my stolen mountain bike. 

Well I finally took the plunge, and a friend and I bought a pair of frames from Angle Sports Equipment. Angle? Yeah, I hadn't heard about them on these forums either (link to their site is here). 

But Angle just started selling frames on ebay, and offered a frame at a great price. I also googled them, and their Alibaba site (link here), claims $10-50 Million USD in annual revenue (with 38% of their business in North America and 39% in Europe). Truth? Who knows (and if it really is $50M USD, then I'm sure it includes markets extending far beyond cycling). But I bit and bought, believing that ebay and Paypal would offer some level of buyer protection if they weren't legit. 

The auction was for 1 frame (Cantilever/V-brake 'Cross frame AG038), but after exchanging a few emails with "Kevin", who btw answered all my emails immediately (usually overnight, due to time zone differences), I bought another frame (Disc brake w/ Front and Rear Thru Axle 'Cross frame AG028), a pair of headsets, some spare hangers, and front and rear thru axles. 

After waiting about 3 weeks for the thru axle frame to be made (I presumed the delay was due to typical production run scheduling), the frames were sent express via EMS as promised, and I received them in California within 1 week after Kevin emailed me with the tracking info. 

I'm still waiting to get parts to build up the thru axle frame, which has the same geometry as the canti frame (and both appear to be identical to Flyxxi's FR-603 and Miracle's AC058/AC059). 

But I've got the canti frame nearly done, and the build went together very smoothly--I just need to get a front derailleur that will fit the 34.9mm seattube, a chainstay protector, and some inline cable adjusters. Then hope to ride it later today  

Much thanks to all those who posted about their experiences on this thread! 

And finally, huge thanks to Kevin at Angle for taking care of me with this transaction! Dunno if it's OK to say who Angle builds bikes for, but I suppose it's not hard to figure that out if you look at their carbon fatbikes. 

I'll post more after I build up the thru axle frame, and get some miles on the canti bike before my friend takes ownership. 

Pics:
Box arrived safely! 








Everything was well packed!








51 cm canti frame weighs 1090g (incl seatpost clamp) 








Fork weighs 452g (w uncut steerer) 








51 cm frame, wearing road shoes and 50-34 compact road double crank








Btw, I threw a scrap of bar tape on the seatpost to hide an ugly graphic


----------



## moophus

Looks nice! How does it ride? how tall are you? Does it fit well?


----------



## LanterneRouge14

moophus said:


> Looks nice! How does it ride? how tall are you? Does it fit well?


Thanks! The frame/bike I posted is a 51cm, and is actually for a friend of mine. She's about 5'6" (~167.6 cm), and the 51cm frame's 520mm effective top tube length is nearly identical to the ETT of her current road bike. 

Geo table for AG038: 









I'm 5'8" (~173 cm), and bought a 53 cm frame (the AG028 disc brake, thru axle version) but I still need to build wheels and decide on brakes before I can complete that project. 

The 51 cm frame I've posted above is a little short in the top tube for me, even though I have a relatively shortish torso and longish legs for my height (I wear pants w 32" inseam). FWIW, the distance from the center of the BB spindle to the top of my saddle is about 28", w/ 172.5mm cranks. 

Regarding fit, I loved the fit of an older steel 'cross bike that I regretfully sold years ago in order to buy a pretty sweet mountain bike. That bike was labeled as a "50cm" frame, but it had a 54.5 cm ETT, 71.5* HA, 72* SA, 57mm BB drop, and 63.5 mm fork trail. 

More recently, I've done a few 'cross races on a bike w/ a 52.9cm ETT (and 70* HA, 74* SA, 70mm BB drop, and 78mm fork trail), and although I tend to like smaller frames for 'cross and trail riding, that bike felt just a tiny bit small for general road riding on both paved and dirt roads. 

As far as how the AG038 rides, I've only ridden it a handful of times, and all on paved roads, so this is just an initial impression. And FWIW, I've owned and ridden road bikes made from steel, alloy, carbon, and Ti over the years, but the vast majority of road bikes I've owned have been steel... 

The AG038 feels light, stiff, and reasonably damp. The one carbon bike I've owned before was a Special Ed Tarmac, and the overall ride quality of the AG038 feels pretty similar, except for its slacker HA, slightly longer wheelbase, and increased fork trail that slows its handling as expected. The Tarmac may have been a little more damp too, possibly due to its layup and/or the debatable benefits of its Zertz elastomer inserts. And since nearly all the parts used to build up the AG038 including the Ksyrium wheels and Conti tires came off that Tarmac, I think the difference in ride quality is mostly due to the differences between the frames. 

I'm really happy with the feel of the AG038 and suspect the disc brake & thru axle AG028 will feel just as sweet. As many have posted about the identical Flyxxi FR-602/603 (as well as similar Ican AC058/059), the AG038/028 frames have about 52mm of clearance between the rear seatstays and chainstays (while the fork has a few mm more clearance) so 40mm tires should fit pretty easily. And the AG038 canti/v-brake frame and fork has mounts for fenders and/or racks, adding to its versatility beyond cyclocross. 

Unfortunately, the AG028 thru axle frame and fork lacks dedicated rack/fender eyelets, but it's not hard to macguyver fenders to any frame, and Revelate frame bags as well as rack solutions from Old Man Mountain should cover my bases if I ever choose to tour on the AG028.


----------



## bugly64

*Fm105-d*

Just got it on the road tonight. I plan to get a Fizik Cyrano R1 stem on it soon. I haven't weighed it yet.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

So I got my tracking number today from Velobuild. I am literally dying to start building this thing up, especially the wheels. 

Has any one picked up the FR-603? I really liked that frame but as far as I could tell it was only available in the 53 which was a little too short of a top tube for me.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

I got Chris to send me a picture before shipping:


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Got it yesterday and man is it pretty. Frame weight is about 1050g and the fork is another 450g, in line with what every one else has found I think. I'll post some pictures of the build as I go.


----------



## kafreeman

LanterneRouge14 said:


> Two years ago, I read a ton about direct-from-China carbon frames on here and mtbr.com, and had narrowed my choices down to Flyxxi's FR-602 (link to current FR-603 here), Speedercycling's FF-R014 (link to FFR014 here), and Miracle's/Ican's open mold of Fuji's Altamira (link to defunct AC098 here).


Any comparisons between the now defunct AC098 (Fuji Altamira) and the AG038 / AC059?

Nashbar has what seems to be the AC098, am tempted to pick it up. Also looking at the AC059 for the internal cable routing.

Planning on a hydraulic ultegra group.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Well, I believe my CX002 is identical to the AC059 while I am still in the process of building it (work has been a little crazy lately) up I'm pretty happy with the construction and finishing so far. As a matter of fact my only complaint is the internal routing. What a PITA that is, I would never buy a bike with internal cables ever again. The rear brake cable routing is super convoluted and you have to run full length housing it just becomes a bloody nightmare.

The Velobuild rims built a beautiful set of wheels though. Carbon rims build so round and true its crazy. I actually had the tension way to low on my first pass because they rim was true right out of the box I didn't realize I had barely any tension on the spokes.


----------



## kafreeman

Anyone ~100 kg on these frames?

They have a good reputation... but still... im kinda paranoid.

I think im going to go for the 550 AC059. Its a bit smaller than my road bike, but the stack on these is crazy low.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

trickydisco78 said:


> Can someone give me the top tube measurement for the fr601/602?
> 
> I notice on most frame geometry charts there are 2 measurements (which i think is actual and horizontal?)
> 
> I'm interested in the 55 version from flyxi


I think this has been posted about 5 times that I can find, but here it is again:

https://g03.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT8.kuDXlhcXXagOFbXZ/201493650/UT8.kuDXlhcXXagOFbXZ.jpg

I haven't seen the diagonal top tube length on a geometry chart in a very long time since it is a meaningless dimension on most modern bikes, it is pretty much always effective TT as in the link. 

As for a 100kg rider I can't say, I'm 88 kg at the moment (and needing to lose another 4 or 5 to get back down to a race weight)and mine seems solid so far. I have only been riding it for 2 days though, so take that for what it is worth.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

So here she is right now, I've been riding her to work for a couple days and it is so fast compared to my old beast of burden. The bars are a little low for riding with a pack, but the position is just right for an all day ride with no pack.









And it is crazy stiff. I was babying it at first because it's my first full carbon frame, but after a bit I was actually running it through potholes just to see how it felt. Those carbon rims are loud when you bottom out a tire. And it bunny hops like nobodies business being so light and having a pretty tight wheel base. The handling is a lot sharper than the steel frame I am coming from, much closer to road bike I have been commuting on since my cross frame cracked. I'll be interested to see how long it holds, but for now I am thrilled.


----------



## bugly64

kafreeman said:


> Anyone ~100 kg on these frames?
> 
> They have a good reputation... but still... im kinda paranoid.
> 
> I think im going to go for the 550 AC059. Its a bit smaller than my road bike, but the stack on these is crazy low.


I'm just at 100 kg and this is my third frame.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Got a 60km pavement ride on the weekend to shake it down before next weekends 110km gravel race. 

This is my first personal full carbon bike. I've ridden other guys bikes before and I have carbon forks on my other bikes but a full carbon ride is a different experience all together. It is so stiff. There is a ridiculous amount written about how carbon damps vibration, but I must admit I was a little surprised at to how this works in actual fact. When you hit a pothole, there is no give to this bike. You feel the full force of the hit. But there is no vibration after, the bike calms down immediately after. If you have ever used a decent fiberglass hammer after using a POS Estwing, you know what I mean.

Before this I actually quite liked steel bikes. Now that I have sampled the kool-aid, I'm not sure I'm going back. Still interested to see how it handles being flogged everyday for a year, but for the moment I am very impressed.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

So I rode a 120 km gravel fondo on the weekend and man did that suck. 110km of gravel, 10km of pavement. The bike did spectacularly well, not so much as flat in spite of plenty of potholes, Texas gates, forestry bridges, exposed granite, climbs that were to steep for the support vehicles without a good run and so rain which turned the first 15km into mud. 









I lost a lot of tension in the spokes on the front wheel, but I'm going to put that down to stretch and my own inexperience building with carbon rims. But the rim itself held up very well. A lot of guys had similar problems with aluminum rims had to stop to true and tension them where as I didn't even realize how bad mine was until I was putting the bike on the rack. One guy who finished a little after me had only had one thread left holding his spoke onto the nipple when he crossed the line.

If anyone is curious, I had a 35c Vittoria Raddoneur Cross on the front and 32c Continental Contact II on the back. The Continental was a poor choice but I didn't want to put on new tires before the race because I have a had a string of bad luck with defective tires separating from the bead (thank you Schwalbe!). If I were to do it again I think I would run a 35m Clement Explore or something similar. The top tube bag wasn't very useful as it was so bumpy 90% of the time that I didn't think I could get into without losing half the contents.


----------



## twiggy

CowtownCyclist said:


> So I rode a 120 km gravel fondo on the weekend and man did that suck. 110km of gravel, 10km of pavement. The bike did spectacularly well, not so much as flat in spite of plenty of potholes, Texas gates, forestry bridges, exposed granite, climbs that were to steep for the support vehicles without a good run and so rain which turned the first 15km into mud.
> 
> View attachment 314714
> 
> 
> I lost a lot of tension in the spokes on the front wheel, but I'm going to put that down to stretch and my own inexperience building with carbon rims. But the rim itself held up very well. A lot of guys had similar problems with aluminum rims had to stop to true and tension them where as I didn't even realize how bad mine was until I was putting the bike on the rack. One guy who finished a little after me had only had one thread left holding his spoke onto the nipple when he crossed the line.
> 
> If anyone is curious, I had a 35c Vittoria Raddoneur Cross on the front and 32c Continental Contact II on the back. The Continental was a poor choice but I didn't want to put on new tires before the race because I have a had a string of bad luck with defective tires separating from the bead (thank you Schwalbe!). If I were to do it again I think I would run a 35m Clement Explore or something similar. The top tube bag wasn't very useful as it was so bumpy 90% of the time that I didn't think I could get into without losing half the contents.


Ghost of the Gravel, I assume? I wish I could have done it!


----------



## CowtownCyclist

twiggy said:


> Ghost of the Gravel, I assume? I wish I could have done it!


Yup, that's the one. I haven't suffered that deeply in a while. Bit's of me are still pretty achy today.


----------



## CabDoctor

Anyone have any experience with the FM-286? I'm looking for a thru-axle bike to race.


----------



## Nathb

Finished my Flyxii FR-602 the other day:









Even though the frame weighed just over 1kg and the forks 430g uncut I still have managed to build a heavy bike at 8.9kg :blush2:


----------



## noisy boy

*Deng Fu FM058*

Finally built it, breaks are no good tough, will replace soon,


----------



## CowtownCyclist

noisy boy said:


> Finally built it, breaks are no good tough, will replace soon,


Yeah, MTB's got away from wide stance brakes in the 1980's for a reason. I can appreciate that for tearing around a Euro cx course mud clearance might count for more than stopping power but for the other 99% of us this style of brakes is best relegated to history.

That is a sweet looking ride though.


----------



## noisy boy

Thanks, CowtownCycli
Just got Avid Shorty 6 and Avid Shorty Ultimate. Somebody on the Weight Weenies forum did built this frame with the same red brakes while back, but he used Sram, and I used Shimano 105 (5700), he did a beautiful job, better then mine.

FM058 Cyclocross build - Weight Weenies


----------



## CowtownCyclist

I had shorties on my old bike, they were fine for racing but they didn't have the power to stop me at a red light in the rain for commuting. I switched to Tektro v-brakes. They were very fussy to set up and wouldn't tolerate even the slightest rim wobble, but they stopped as well as the Hy/Rds do if not better.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Nathb said:


> Finished my Flyxii FR-602 the other day:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the frame weighed just over 1kg and the forks 430g uncut I still have managed to build a heavy bike at 8.9kg :blush2:


As much as I love the paint job on mine, it still looks dead sexy even in nude carbon. That's a nice looking ride. Nice to know the paint didn't add much weight to mine though


----------



## The-DarKris

Hey guys. To anyone who has the AC059 frame I need a bit of a favor:

After looking around I concluded that this frame should work for me, but I possibly want to set it up with 650b wheels (40-50mm). Ican measures the clearance at the seat stays but not the chain stays. 

I wanted to know if someone could do this for me OR if you could tell me how much room is left at the chain stays with whatever tire you are currently running. Thanks in advance!


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Pretty sure that is the same frame as mine and I would guess I have 5mm on either side of my 32mm tire on a wide rim. Have fenders on it and I have run 35mm tire with fenders. I have no doubt a 40mm tire on 700C would fit not sure about a 50.


----------



## The-DarKris

CowtownCyclist said:


> Pretty sure that is the same frame as mine and I would guess I have 5mm on either side of my 32mm tire on a wide rim. Have fenders on it and I have run 35mm tire with fenders. I have no doubt a 40mm tire on 700C would fit not sure about a 50.


Thanks, although I was planning on running 650b tires, something along the lines of what the Cannonball Slate runs.


----------



## aske

I've been following this thread and have now ordered a frame similar to fr-602. Different manufactures, different frame name it seems. Anyways, some of the fr-602 purchases in this thread are several years old now. Has anybody had any long term issues? I think I read someone indicating issues with the fork? I would love to hear about any long term issues (if any).


----------



## The-DarKris

So I don't know if I'm being overly paranoid or just super cautious: 

I want to get a carbon cyclocross frame but from hearing about broken frames and due to my weight I've felt like riding one would be a ticking time bomb that can randomly go off. That said I contacted the guy at VeloBuild asking about the CX-002 (similar to the ICAN AC059) and they said that the frame can handle my weight (150kg/350lbs) but I'm still unsure.

I know I'm not the only one who have ever felt this way in regards to carbon frames, but the thought of little things like my bike falling over and cracking making it unrideable or hitting a bump or a curb drop and my bike explodes.

(I know it sounds like I hate carbon fiber, but I really do like the way it looks - just paranoid.)


----------



## moophus

Always wanted to build a bike and a buddy of mine told me about Dengfus. Found a used fm059 frame on eBay for cheap and got it. Finished the build a few weeks ago. I'm in love.

I went cheap so found whatever I could used or from China. Got a set of generic Chinese carbon 38mm used off of eBay as well.

My daily commuter, 2009 Marin larkspur was only ever on the big chainring so I figured I would go 1x11 and save on the front derailleur cables and shifter.

All up weight with pedals and tool bag is 8kg flat! Compared to my 15kg larkspur this things is a feather.

Loving every minute on it.









https://goo.gl/photos/3dHg28yx7g5ySwg27


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rockbox

I'm looking to build a ride anywhere type bike with drop bars similar to a Cannondale Slate. Are there any chinese carbon cyclocross frames that have enough clearance for 2 inch tires or do I have to get a mountain bike frame.


----------



## OnTheRivet

I'm not sure why you'd want more than 40's on a cross/gravel bike. I'd certainly just ride my MTB if I needed tires that wide for the terrain. Most of the fun of riding cross/gravel bikes is the specific limitations they have and managing them.


----------



## The-DarKris

rockbox said:


> I'm looking to build a ride anywhere type bike with drop bars similar to a Cannondale Slate. Are there any chinese carbon cyclocross frames that have enough clearance for 2 inch tires or do I have to get a mountain bike frame.


CFR505 - Gravel - Carbonda Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.

They advertise 700x40c/650x47b so you could probably fit a 2" 650b tire.

Other options for 650b are the ICAN AC129 or the Viner Strada Bianca which is the thru axle version from Planet X/On-One



OnTheRivet said:


> I'm not sure why you'd want more than 40's on a cross/gravel bike. I'd certainly just ride my MTB if I needed tires that wide for the terrain. Most of the fun of riding cross/gravel bikes is the specific limitations they have and managing them.


Idk about the other guy but for me since I'm a Clyde I have to run near max tire pressure to get a good feeling tire on/off road. My last tire was a 42c and I was running it around 60-70 PSI to not only maintain low rolling resistance but to prevent pinch flats.

In addition moving to a MTB just to get wider tires not only limits tire choice, but I feel like road geo. with MTB tires will still be faster than a traditional MTB geo. Though coming from someone who rode rigid/hardtail MTBs I might be slightly biased towards wider tires.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Just my 2 cents, but I run a 32c or 35c when I am on gravel and I typically run around 70 PSI to avoid pinch flats. At 90kg I don't get many pinch flats. I could go quite a bit lower with tubeless, but my gravel bike is also my commuter and I find tubeless to much of a pain on a commuter that doesn't see much maintenance.

The last gravel road race I was at, there were three people at the start line on MTB's with 2.0" tires and I considered it myself as it had rained the night before and was raining when we started. Happy I didn't though, because none of the MTB guys finished the race. The guys themselves were in pretty good shape, I think one of them would have beat me if he had been on a cross bike, but it was just to much work for a normal person to push that fatter tires and extra mass 120 km and still make the cut off times. 2" tires do provide a cushy ride, but you do pay for it somewhere.


----------



## The-DarKris

CowtownCyclist said:


> Just my 2 cents, but I run a 32c or 35c when I am on gravel and I typically run around 70 PSI to avoid pinch flats. At 90kg I don't get many pinch flats. I could go quite a bit lower with tubeless, but my gravel bike is also my commuter and I find tubeless to much of a pain on a commuter that doesn't see much maintenance.
> 
> The last gravel road race I was at, there were three people at the start line on MTB's with 2.0" tires and I considered it myself as it had rained the night before and was raining when we started. Happy I didn't though, because none of the MTB guys finished the race. The guys themselves were in pretty good shape, I think one of them would have beat me if he had been on a cross bike, but it was just to much work for a normal person to push that fatter tires and extra mass 120 km and still make the cut off times. 2" tires do provide a cushy ride, but you do pay for it somewhere.


I'm assuming they were 29ers? From what I've seen 27.5 tires are a bit easier to get rolling since their diameter is close to 700c road/cyclocross tires. For me personally I want to gain volume, not size (if that makes sense).


----------



## Nathb

CowtownCyclist said:


> As much as I love the paint job on mine, it still looks dead sexy even in nude carbon. That's a nice looking ride. Nice to know the paint didn't add much weight to mine though


Yeah it's really nice, I originally had my heart set on UD but actually the 3k matte has really won me over.

The bike has also won be over, from being built from spares to just about to have full 105 fitted.

The only thing that I think lets this bike down from a road bike perspective (which I appreciate it isn't) is the lazy steering.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

One was a 29er for sure, the other two I didn't look that closely at. Doesn't really make a difference as it is the increased rolling resistance of that big contact patch and the mass of the wider tire that slows you down. I would have thought they would have been able to keep up because the roads were really rough, but it just didn't happen. 

I like really fat tires on mountain bike, don't get me wrong. But if I am running big gears and a drop bar I'm looking to go faster and a 2" tire defeats that for me. If I want a tire that wide I may as well run a riser bar and MTB gearing. 



The-DarKris said:


> I'm assuming they were 29ers? From what I've seen 27.5 tires are a bit easier to get rolling since their diameter is close to 700c road/cyclocross tires. For me personally I want to gain volume, not size (if that makes sense).


----------



## The-DarKris

CowtownCyclist said:


> I like really fat tires on mountain bike, don't get me wrong. But if I am running big gears and a drop bar I'm looking to go faster and a 2" tire defeats that for me. If I want a tire that wide I may as well run a riser bar and MTB gearing.


I understand completely. For most people the trade-off is probably less than ideal. Myself and other very large riders might find a benefit in wider tires however. I currently have 38c tires and the lowest I can go is 60/65 psi in order to have the most comfort I can get. If I run them higher and it becomes uncomfortable, less controllable, and I also worry about my back wheel falling out of true. Any lower and I risk pinch flats and possibly cut sidewalls. 

I don't race at ALL. If I wanted to I could spec a set of race orientated tires. My focus is on how I can get from point a to b while putting the least amount of stress on my body. If wider is slower but more comfortable, I will pick wider 100% of the time.


----------



## martinfrias

Hi, im new to the forum, i just ordered a velobuild cx2 disc, did i make a good choice? im quite heavy(110kg) and want to use it mainly as a road bike and in january y have a 1200km trip over gravel roads on chilean patagonia.
Thanks!


----------



## aske

Been following this thread, so just want to chip in with my final build. So far it rides good. Have used it mainly for commute so far, so it's not been really tested yet.
View attachment 315859


----------



## ultreia

Hello, I am looking for a chinese frame with the two options in the same frame canti + disc, Do you know one? if not, I was looking at Flyxii 601-602-603 but they haven't any frame with BB30 in stock. I want one good frame with BB86 or BB30. 

I want to avoid the BSA glue problems . I was looking in the thread and the best option was Flyxii, but they told me 2 months of waiting to have the frame with BB30 at home... and the cyclocross season is going to start...


----------



## alfons

aske said:


> I've been following this thread and have now ordered a frame similar to fr-602. Different manufactures, different frame name it seems. Anyways, some of the fr-602 purchases in this thread are several years old now. Has anybody had any long term issues? I think I read someone indicating issues with the fork? I would love to hear about any long term issues (if any).


So far 18 months, 12.000 km, nearly perfect.
Everthig is fine despite quite some cx and xc abuse. However, the fork might not be the stiffest. I have brake wobble at the front at low speed between 15 and 20 km/h....above everything is very stable...
I recommend this frame.


----------



## aske

alfons said:


> So far 18 months, 12.000 km, nearly perfect.
> Everthig is fine despite quite some cx and xc abuse. However, the fork might not be the stiffest. I have brake wobble at the front at low speed between 15 and 20 km/h....above everything is very stable...
> I recommend this frame.


Awesome. Thanks for the feedback! 
I noticed that my steerer tube has a white inner layer of what seems to be fiberglass. Something others have experienced? 
I contacted the supplier and they called it "glossy fiber" and said it is easing the molding process and that it has no impact on strength...?

See image.


----------



## alfons

ultreia said:


> I want to avoid the BSA glue problems . ...


I use BSA and Campagnolo. As far as I know, glue is no longer recommended.....just tighten pretty hard....simple solution that works and easy to replace the bearing.......no way on earth I would use BB30 or so.


----------



## alfons

aske said:


> I noticed that my steerer tube has a white inner layer of what seems to be fiberglass. Something others have experienced?
> I contacted the supplier and they called it "glossy fiber" and said it is easing the molding process and that it has no impact on strength...?
> 
> See image.
> 
> View attachment 316057


I do not recall 100% but I think that mine looked the same.


----------



## thefoxtooth

Hi yall, 

Does anyone know for a fact whether the Flyxii 603 also takes 160mm rotors? I see the 602 does.

I'm seeing conflicting reports of compatibility between TRP Hy/Rd and Campy levers here. Lennard Zinn says they work well... Anyone have a debate-ender? The Campy portion is non-negotiable—I already have a 10s drivetrain laying around—but I'm still shopping for brakes.

Also, anyone have a good lead on a quality Chinese stem? Thanks!


----------



## moophus

I bought this one from AliExpress. The construction looks sound and it's holding up well. The front cap is aluminum though. It's so cheap and light, not sure how they are making money. My 17 degree 70mm was 133grams.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spe...Stem-Bicycle-Parts-Angle-6-17/2041965668.html



thefoxtooth said:


> Also, anyone have a good lead on a quality Chinese stem? Thanks!


----------



## alfons

alfons said:


> I do not recall 100% but I think that mine looked the same.


I checked yesterday, it looks the same.


----------



## alfons

thefoxtooth said:


> Hi yall,
> 
> Does anyone know for a fact whether the Flyxii 603 also takes 160mm rotors? I see the 602 does.
> 
> I'm seeing conflicting reports of compatibility between TRP Hy/Rd and Campy levers here. Lennard Zinn says they work well... Anyone have a debate-ender? The Campy portion is non-negotiable—I already have a 10s drivetrain laying around—but I'm still shopping for brakes.
> 
> Also, anyone have a good lead on a quality Chinese stem? Thanks!



Flyxii is usually quite fast in their response. Just send them a message about the brake discs.

Regarding Campa and HyRd. My experience with HyRd brakes is a catastrophe. I got it never right and after half a year the rear brake lost oil and then I started to use Juin Tech, Spyre and Redland. Spyre is currently on the cx bike and Redland semi hydraulic brakes are on my road bike. I am not quite sure about Redland quality, although they brake very very well, 2 of 4 brakes bought in spring stopped working after around half a year....:-(


----------



## CowtownCyclist

thefoxtooth said:


> Hi yall,
> 
> Does anyone know for a fact whether the Flyxii 603 also takes 160mm rotors? I see the 602 does.
> 
> I'm seeing conflicting reports of compatibility between TRP Hy/Rd and Campy levers here. Lennard Zinn says they work well... Anyone have a debate-ender? The Campy portion is non-negotiable—I already have a 10s drivetrain laying around—but I'm still shopping for brakes.
> 
> Also, anyone have a good lead on a quality Chinese stem? Thanks!



No idea on the 603, the 602 takes them no problem.

I haven't used my Hy/rd with Campy since my road bike uses calipers, but my campy levers pull the same amount of cable as my SRAM's and that is what I currently run with Hy/rds. They work ok, they pull to far (like right to the bars to lock my wheels) for my taste but they work wet or dry and regardless of temperature and so far the self adjusting is working fine as my pads are almost worn out but I haven't lost any braking. The internal cable routing on the 602 doesn't do it any favours though, I'm tempted to run the cables along the bottom of the chainstay.

For the steerer, mine looks the same.


----------



## thefoxtooth

*Hack for Hy/Rd brakes and Campy levers*



CowtownCyclist said:


> No idea on the 603, the 602 takes them no problem.
> 
> I haven't used my Hy/rd with Campy since my road bike uses calipers, but my campy levers pull the same amount of cable as my SRAM's and that is what I currently run with Hy/rds. They work ok, they pull to far (like right to the bars to lock my wheels) for my taste but they work wet or dry and regardless of temperature and so far the self adjusting is working fine as my pads are almost worn out but I haven't lost any braking. The internal cable routing on the 602 doesn't do it any favours though, I'm tempted to run the cables along the bottom of the chainstay.
> 
> For the steerer, mine looks the same.


Hey, y'all, I found this neat hack for Hy/Rds (literally a hack; you take a hacksaw to the cable clamp). It seems to reduce the lever travel significantly. Behold:

https://youtu.be/8aBa3sGUUhs


----------



## CowtownCyclist

thefoxtooth said:


> Hey, y'all, I found this neat hack for Hy/Rds (literally a hack; you take a hacksaw to the cable clamp). It seems to reduce the lever travel significantly. Behold:
> 
> https://youtu.be/8aBa3sGUUhs


I have actually tried this on a friends bike with SRAM levers. It worked ok, but it wasn't quite the revelation I had hoped for so I left mine as they are. I have thought about doing it to the rear caliper since that one suffers the most from the funky cable routing, but just haven't quite had the need yet.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

Peculiar quirk on my 602 that I have been noticing lately since I have spent a lot of time filtering through traffic at low speeds, I get toe overlap on my 55cm frame. Granted I have pretty big feet (my current shoes are a Shimano 46 or 47) but I set my cleats pretty far forward and I still rub my toe if I turn my wheels to sharply. I have only ever had this happen on a track bike before, never noticed it on a road or cross bike.

Granted this isn't something I notice when I am really riding , just when track standing or riding around a stopped car at low speed, but it is a little odd when it first happens. It's pretty quick handling compared to my old ride, so it must be a pretty short reach/steep head tube relatively speaking.


----------



## Ghost_HTX

Well, I have bought an FR-603 frame set and I have to say that I'm not that impressed at all with the quality.

1- The 3k mat weave looks terrible. Really wavy and not uniform at all. 
2 - The parts of the frame where it would have been difficult to get the weave to match up properly (BB area, seat stay etc) have just been given a wrap in UD carbon. Just lazy finishing. 
3 - The fork crown (on top, next to the junction with the steerer) has been buffed with something so much that there are carbon firbres showing through the lacquer - I hope this is just the cosmetic 3k weave top layer and not a structural issue...
4 - The tolerances on the holes in the frame for the internal cabling are all over the place - some of the plastic stops are literally hanging out of the frame.
5 - The seat tube has a pronounced "step" on the inside, corresponding to where the seat tube / seat stay and top tube meet. There is not a hope in hell what a 31.6 mm seat post will fit - even after filing away at the step. I don't want to file away more for risk of compromising the structural integrity of the frame. My only option now (apart from sending the whole thing back) is to get a 31.6mm to 27.2mm shim and knock it down there, then buy another seatpost at 27.2mm...

Going off gut feeling, this looks like a factory second that didn't pass QC - it really is that bad. I'm not entirely sure I want to finish the build / ride the thing in case there are other latent faults waiting to jump up and bit me in the ass... Luckily I'm not a CX racer - I just wanted a lightweight disc crosser with mud guard fitting possibility to do my winter commuting. 

What really sucks is that I am no noob when it comes to buying China Carbon - I have two wheel sets, a fork and a stem (all but one wheel set from Flyxii) and have been more than happy with them all. Heck - I even went directly to Flyxii to source this frame, to ensure that I wasn't getting poorer quality stuff from a middle man on Ebay.


----------



## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> Well, I have bought an FR-603 frame set and I have to say that I'm not that impressed at all with the quality.
> 
> 1- The 3k mat weave looks terrible. Really wavy and not uniform at all.
> 2 - The parts of the frame where it would have been difficult to get the weave to match up properly (BB area, seat stay etc) have just been given a wrap in UD carbon. Just lazy finishing.
> 3 - The fork crown (on top, next to the junction with the steerer) has been buffed with something so much that there are carbon firbres showing through the lacquer - I hope this is just the cosmetic 3k weave top layer and not a structural issue...
> 4 - The tolerances on the holes in the frame for the internal cabling are all over the place - some of the plastic stops are literally hanging out of the frame.
> 5 - The seat tube has a pronounced "step" on the inside, corresponding to where the seat tube / seat stay and top tube meet. There is not a hope in hell what a 31.6 mm seat post will fit - even after filing away at the step. I don't want to file away more for risk of compromising the structural integrity of the frame. My only option now (apart from sending the whole thing back) is to get a 31.6mm to 27.2mm shim and knock it down there, then buy another seatpost at 27.2mm...
> 
> Going off gut feeling, this looks like a factory second that didn't pass QC - it really is that bad. I'm not entirely sure I want to finish the build / ride the thing in case there are other latent faults waiting to jump up and bit me in the ass... Luckily I'm not a CX racer - I just wanted a lightweight disc crosser with mud guard fitting possibility to do my winter commuting.
> 
> What really sucks is that I am no noob when it comes to buying China Carbon - I have two wheel sets, a fork and a stem (all but one wheel set from Flyxii) and have been more than happy with them all. Heck - I even went directly to Flyxii to source this frame, to ensure that I wasn't getting poorer quality stuff from a middle man on Ebay.


I am no expert at all, but I have now bought 3 "FR-603" frames from 3 different manufacturers (not Flyxii). 2 with 3K finish, 1 with UD finish.

Here's my 5 cents purely based on that experience.

1. Usually, you will be able to see where the 3K-weave is "seamed". i.e. where the carbon sheet ends are meeting. If it's worse than that, then it's not ok. pic?

2. This has been the case with all the 3K finish frames I have bought. Weather it's caused by lazy manufacturing or structural properties, I cannot say. But I persinally found the fading transition visually nice.

3. Is it the beginning of the steerer tube (the 1 1/2" width part) or on the actual fork? pic?

4. Sounds bad. pic?

5. I have not had this happening. This is definitely a QC fail.

A thing I have noticed on all the frames I have ordered, is that the inner part of the steerer tube is made of fiberglass. Maybe 40% fiberglass and 60% carbon. I have contacted 2 of the manufacturers on this subject and one says it eases the molding process and another says it's strengthening the steerer tube against sudden hard hits.
I mainly think it's a matter of cutting costs for them. But so far I've had no issues with them.
Is this the case with your steerer tube as well?

Another thing. As far as I know, Flyxii is a trading company (that's at least how they are listed on alibaba.com). I find it more comforting to order directly from manufacturers. Trading companies can source their frames and parts from any manufacturer without your knowledge. With direct manufacturer you, 
1. know where the stuff is made and can inquire images of production/test facilities etc. 
2. most manufacturers that have a trading department are interested in delivering quality. They are "out of the shadow", so to say. A trading company CAN buy from shadow manufacturers to cut costs at the expense of quality, you don't know. 

Of course there are reputable trading companies as well and I read a lot of good stuff about Flyxii. It all might just be in my paranoid head, but I at least like to deal directly with manufacturers. It's at least one middleman less


----------



## Ghost_HTX

Hey aske,

Thanks for the detailed reply! You like you FR-603s, huh? Whats your take on them? Do they ride nicely? I hear a lot about the 602, but not the 603.

I didn't know that about Flyxii - I genuinely thought that they were a producer, not a middle man.

1. Yeah - the seams of the 3k weave are visible - they are actually quite well lined up, as I would expect from a "premium" brand. But here and there at the junctions of the tubes the finish is wavy. I'm guessing this frame was a early Monday morning or late Friday afternoon job...

2. Again, not really a major issue - just a minor gripe - when compared to the other items on my list. The fade does actually look interesting, but if you order a 3k weave, you kinda expect a 3k weave, not a mixture.

3. This is not on the steerer tube - the steerer tube is UD carbon - this is on the top of the fork crown (the bit that would normally be hidden by the bottom of the head tube). It does seem like the 3k weave has been exposed a little. But I am hoping that the 3k weave is only cosmetic...

4. I am at work just now, but I will take some pics tonight. The cable stops look like they will do the job, but the tolerances are all to hell. I wonder of the force from the cable will cause these plastic inserts to loosen over time?

5. This is the worst one - I have decided to shim it and fit a 27.2mm post. The shim cost me £5 so I am not too out of pocket. A 27.2mm post cost me £20 or so, so again not bank breaking, but the Flyxii carbon post that I bought with the frame is useless to me now. 

6. The steerer tube seems to be carbon fibre all the way through, but as Flyxii didn't send me a head set - despite offering me one as a free gift - I haven't fitted the fork yet, so I haven't cut the steerer. 

All in all I am pretty disappointed with my first foray into China carbon frames. 
The dumb thing is that my road bike was built up using a Gavia frame set (a Norwegian brand that sources from China). That frame went together on it's own almost - no issues other than my lack of bike building experience. This China carbon craplet has caused me more problems just unboxing it!


----------



## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> Hey aske,
> 
> Thanks for the detailed reply! You like you FR-603s, huh? Whats your take on them? Do they ride nicely? I hear a lot about the 602, but not the 603.
> 
> I didn't know that about Flyxii - I genuinely thought that they were a producer, not a middle man.
> 
> 1. Yeah - the seams of the 3k weave are visible - they are actually quite well lined up, as I would expect from a "premium" brand. But here and there at the junctions of the tubes the finish is wavy. I'm guessing this frame was a early Monday morning or late Friday afternoon job...
> 
> 2. Again, not really a major issue - just a minor gripe - when compared to the other items on my list. The fade does actually look interesting, but if you order a 3k weave, you kinda expect a 3k weave, not a mixture.
> 
> 3. This is not on the steerer tube - the steerer tube is UD carbon - this is on the top of the fork crown (the bit that would normally be hidden by the bottom of the head tube). It does seem like the 3k weave has been exposed a little. But I am hoping that the 3k weave is only cosmetic...
> 
> 4. I am at work just now, but I will take some pics tonight. The cable stops look like they will do the job, but the tolerances are all to hell. I wonder of the force from the cable will cause these plastic inserts to loosen over time?
> 
> 5. This is the worst one - I have decided to shim it and fit a 27.2mm post. The shim cost me £5 so I am not too out of pocket. A 27.2mm post cost me £20 or so, so again not bank breaking, but the Flyxii carbon post that I bought with the frame is useless to me now.
> 
> 6. The steerer tube seems to be carbon fibre all the way through, but as Flyxii didn't send me a head set - despite offering me one as a free gift - I haven't fitted the fork yet, so I haven't cut the steerer.
> 
> All in all I am pretty disappointed with my first foray into China carbon frames.
> The dumb thing is that my road bike was built up using a Gavia frame set (a Norwegian brand that sources from China). That frame went together on it's own almost - no issues other than my lack of bike building experience. This China carbon craplet has caused me more problems just unboxing it!


Arh, I'm sorry. The bikes I've ordered are similar to fr-602, not fr-603. It was early in the morning when I replied 

But, as far as I heard, the frame of 602 and 603 should be almost identical but with a different fork. Though, I have not yet seen 603 from a direct manufacturer.
Good to hear about the full carbon steerer tube. Even though the suppliers are reassuring me that it's OK, and that I have not heard about anybody having (serious) issues with the 602, I'm kind of hesitant...

I live in a market where the markup on bicycles are enormous and without particular reason (except profit).
Bicycling is booming in the market at the moment, so the frames I have ordered are sample frames, for the purpose of evaluating quality with the goal of reselling them. Therefore, I've been using a lot of time researching and it's also the reason why I can't "afford" buying from a trading company that might (might not) change supplier. I need consistency.

As I said, I have not heard any serious issues about the 602. Some minor fork flexing, mentioned in this thread, but else everybody is happy with it. Even people who ride it quite hard. I would assume, that the 603 is very similar and that the new fork is for the better and not worse.


----------



## Ghost_HTX

Here are some pics. 
TBH the fork crown is kinda concerning. 
The cable stops are pictured after I loosened the small allen key bolts and re fitted them best I could.
You can 'just' see the step in the seat tube.
Oh, and after close inspection, I have a white layer inside the fork steerer too...

FYI from what I have seen, the 603 has a different fork and is 5 mm longer in the top tube.


----------



## Nathb

That doesn't look good to me. My Flyxii 602 is of a much better quality. The 603 has always been a lot cheaper than the 602?

I thought the 3k to UD transition was normal, to be honest I quite like it:


----------



## Ghost_HTX

Youre right; the 603 is substantially cheaper. It also has a less complex seat stay design and a slightly longer top tube. A poor mans 602? Could be, but I would still expect the simple things to be done right.

Im a lazy man, so I will probably end up building this up and riding it rather than contesting this over pay pal... Lets see how it rides...


----------



## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> Here are some pics.
> TBH the fork crown is kinda concerning.
> The cable stops are pictured after I loosened the small allen key bolts and re fitted them best I could.
> You can 'just' see the step in the seat tube.
> Oh, and after close inspection, I have a white layer inside the fork steerer too...
> 
> FYI from what I have seen, the 603 has a different fork and is 5 mm longer in the top tube.


That does not look good. I agree that it looks like slobbish finishing. Though, the fiberglass in the steerer tube does not seem to cause issues for anyone...

For comparison, here's an image of the same area on one of my 3K finish 602 forks. After I saw your images, I went and checked my cable stops and they are all attached very firmly.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










And weather 603 is a "poor mans 602" really depends on the manufacturer. With good materials and processes it can be as good as any carbon frame. Even branded ones

Aske


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## jermleeds

*Thru-axle recommendation?*

I just bought a FM-286 frame from Deng Fu. It takes a 12x142mm thru-axle in the rear, and a 15x100mm thru-axle in front. Does any one who has built up a thru-axle bike have a recommendation for thru-axles to use? There are these DTSWiss- anybody have experience with them? 
DT Swiss RWS Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Thru Axles | Jenson USA


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## atpjunkie

noisy boy said:


> Finally built it, breaks are no good tough, will replace soon,


those look like Empella Frogglegg Brakes. They work fine if set up properly


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## bikeguy0

jermleeds said:


> I just bought a FM-286 frame from Deng Fu. It takes a 12x142mm thru-axle in the rear, and a 15x100mm thru-axle in front. Does any one who has built up a thru-axle bike have a recommendation for thru-axles to use? There are these DTSWiss- anybody have experience with them?
> DT Swiss RWS Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Thru Axles | Jenson USA


I have them. Work fine. Not the lightest ones made in sure but they work great and are simple to use. 


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## aske

fr-602 is getting quite popular! 

Ribble CR3 CX Special Edition Shimano 105 Hydraulic - Carbon Cyclocross - Ribble Cycles


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## jermleeds

*Build of Deng Fu FM-286*

Just built up my new cross bike, and just came back from it's inaugural, shake-down ride. Thing is sweet, and now I realize I'm the limitation now and have no excuses. Bike is an FM-286 Deng Fu. This is the second bike I've built up on a Chinese carbon frame, after my road bike that I now have 8000 issue free miles on. It has thru-axles, (142x12mm rear, 100x15mm front), the Shimano RS785 hydraulic road brakes/shifters (which feel Ultegra level to me), a 36/46 T Shimano CX crankset, 11-32 11spd cassette, the WTB Rocket V saddle, Crank Bros. Candy Aluminum pedals, carbon wheels I sourced from Red Eagles via Ebay, Clement MDX & PDX rubber. Thing is sweet, it rockets out of turns. The steering angle is a little slacker than most of my other bikes, so the handling will take a bit of getting use to, but I'm pretty sure I can adjust. I'm experiencing full new bike bliss.


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## Ghost_HTX

That is a very nice looking bike, jermleeds. What was the final build weight? Did you have any heel rub issues? 142 mm rear spacing plus short chain stays don't often play well together, I find. My FLX-603 has 135 mm rear spacing and it is very, very close (no rubbing, just damn close) with my Campagnolo Centaur cranks. The do have a very narrow q-factor, though. 

I am recently finished with my Flyxii-FLX-FR-603. This was not an easy build up.

As I have already stated, the forks were kinda rough, the seat tube was unfinished, the cable stops didn't and they didn't send me the head set they promised they would. I ended up shimming the seat tube to 27.2 mm and then filing out the shim to get the replacement 27.2 mm seat post to fit, rather than filing away at the frame material. Yeah - I now have a 31.6 mm Flyxii seat post that doesn't fit any of my bikes...

Another thing I realised too, was that the calipers I bought were BB7 mtb, not road... But with some adjustment they actually work really well - a wee bit more pull than I'm used to, but they bite and lock the wheels before I run out of lever travel. This is contrary to the widely held belief that BB7 mtb calipers won't work with road levers... Maybe Centaur levers pull a little more than most other road levers?

All in a little over 8 kg with 25mm road tyres on.


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## aske

That ended up as a really nice build! How is the ride? Can you feel anything related to the build quality you previously mentioned? Maybe some flexing issues?


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## Ghost_HTX

It looks OK, huh? Thanks! 

It actually rides quite nicely - no discernible flex or untoward noises (other than the cables rattling around inside the frame now and then). 

It feels very different from my road bike - the roadie has shorter chain stays, longer cranks and a standard chain set.

It actually feels like the CX bike accelerates quicker and is more stable when compared to the roadie. But the roadie helps me hold a higher speed overall and is more twitchy. 









This is the roadie. I built this one too. It was so much easier to build than the CX bike.


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## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> It looks OK, huh? Thanks!
> 
> It actually rides quite nicely - no discernible flex or untoward noises (other than the cables rattling around inside the frame now and then).
> 
> It feels very different from my road bike - the roadie has shorter chain stays, longer cranks and a standard chain set.
> 
> It actually feels like the CX bike accelerates quicker and is more stable when compared to the roadie. But the roadie helps me hold a higher speed overall and is more twitchy.
> 
> View attachment 316801
> 
> 
> This is the roadie. I built this one too. It was so much easier to build than the CX bike.


Great. What did you find particularly difficult with the fr-603 build? The issues with the seat post?

The fr-602 I have build up didn't have the cable tubes for the internal cables. That was kind of the most difficult/time consuming part. And then it was my first time bleeding hydraulic brakes, so there was a learning curve there. But else I found it relatively straight forward.


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## Ghost_HTX

The off spec seat post for one. Then the internal cables. The routing was easy, it came with the white plastic tubes already routed, so the inners were easy peasy. But........ the cable stops didnt. I.e they were only there to cover the gaping holes in the frame. There was nothing for the ferrules of the cable outer to but up against so I had to run full length outers. Luckily I did the cable routing before I fitted the cranks. I had to run the inners down and out the BB then feed the outers back up the down tube from the BB to the levers. I then had to remove and thow away the BB cable guide and use a Token "nosed" ferrule on the FD cable, as there was nothing for the cable to but up against without the inner sawing through the BB area of the frame every time I shifted chain ring...


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## aske

Aha, the "full-hole" cable stops are made for running hydraulic tube for the brakes. I found this a very nice touch actually. But they should of course only be where the brake should be run. Not all cable stops. And ideally the supplier should provide a bunch of both. I have found, that the FD cable rubbing against the frame in the exit from the frame to the FD is a quite common issue. I remember someone posting about it on a Colnago at some point. Don't know if it was on this forum though. I have not yet found the ideal solution for it yet...


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## danieltt

Another Dengfu FM286 being built here to the following spec 
Ultegra 6800 groupset, 11 speed, 50x34 compact
TRP Spyre 160 discs
thru-axles, (142x12mm rear, 100x15mm front)
and some lovely 38mm deep carbon clinchers have arrived today

As the motor racing season has finished I need something to occupy me over winter so thought I'd have a crack at some cyclocross. This is my first ground up build and what was started a cheap second hand CAADX has typically ballooned into a much more expensive exercise lol

Should have it all together this weekend


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## jermleeds

Ghost_HTX said:


> That is a very nice looking bike, jermleeds. What was the final build weight? Did you have any heel rub issues? 142 mm rear spacing plus short chain stays don't often play well together, I find. My FLX-603 has 135 mm rear spacing and it is very, very close (no rubbing, just damn close) with my Campagnolo Centaur cranks. The do have a very narrow q-factor, though.


Ghost, no heel strike issues for me. Caveat, however, that my feet are size 8 US, so it's very possible that somebody with larger feet would have issues. Final build weight was 8.7kg, as shown. 

I'll add that the build was easier than yours sounds like it was; I didn't have any defects to deal with. Installing Shimano RS785 hydraulics/shifters and routing them internally was a bit of chore, as it involved a bleed both front and rear.


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## heybrady

Planning on building up new "gravel" bike to replace a 6 year old CAAD8. Was looking at RLT9, TCX, xTrail, but the China carbon is looking more appealing. 

Has anyone built up one of these? Looks like a Giant but with round seatpost and odd seat stays. Although the modular dropouts look nice 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152327483525


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## andy13

Doesn't look like a round seatpost on their pics or diagrams. 
Nice looking frame though.


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## heybrady

andy13 said:


> Doesn't look like a round seatpost on their pics or diagrams.
> Nice looking frame though.


Yep. My bad. I swear I saw a similar frame with a round post. 

The chainstays look odd, still


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kafreeman

Looks like the 3T Exploro.

Exploro by 3T Cycling

Geometry seems relatively close as well.


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## heybrady

Got the two frames confused since they are so similar. 

This one is largely the same frame but has normal chainstays and a round post 

http://www.carbonda.com/road/gravel/cfr505.html


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## Ghost_HTX

Just thought I would check back.

The 603 hasn't killed me (yet). In fact, it is proving to be a reasonably nice reliable commuter. It rides quite well, goes faster when I push the pedals and stops when I pull the brakes. Leaning to one side initiates a turn in that direction. Leaning the other way initiates a turn in the other direction.

So - going, stopping, steering and shifting are all in order. But I guess this is also down to the mix of Centaur / Athena / Xenon / BB7 parts.

It was just that the initial un-boxing and the subsequent build up were a bit of a mission... I would only recommend one to someone if they were on a budget (like me) and had previous wrench experience. 

Oh! one more thing - mtb BB7s work fine on my crosser... I have read in numerous places that if you are running road levers then you need road BB7s. I was a bit silly and bought mtb BB7s thinking they were road BB7s at a great price... 

I thought; "what's the worst that can happen?", and fired them on regardless. After a wee bit of faffing around and a few kilometers with rotor rub they are bedded in fine and although the lever pull is a bit on the long side, they lock up and stop the bike loooooong before they run out of pull and bottom out against the drops.

One more more thing - I love how the Chinese are now jumping on the gravel grinder band wagon - I really do! The 3T Exploro is a lovely looking bike, but at that price? I would much rather go for the Pro.Mance (I effing love that name) china carbon gravel grinder. I even love the blue color scheme.


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## aske

I've had an eye on that frame for a while. It seems like an in-house mold and not an open mold, as such. I at least haven't found it elsewhere...?


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## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> Just thought I would check back.
> 
> The 603 hasn't killed me (yet). In fact, it is proving to be a reasonably nice reliable commuter. It rides quite well, goes faster when I push the pedals and stops when I pull the brakes. Leaning to one side initiates a turn in that direction. Leaning the other way initiates a turn in the other direction.
> 
> So - going, stopping, steering and shifting are all in order. But I guess this is also down to the mix of Centaur / Athena / Xenon / BB7 parts.
> 
> It was just that the initial un-boxing and the subsequent build up were a bit of a mission... I would only recommend one to someone if they were on a budget (like me) and had previous wrench experience.
> 
> Oh! one more thing - mtb BB7s work fine on my crosser... I have read in numerous places that if you are running road levers then you need road BB7s. I was a bit silly and bought mtb BB7s thinking they were road BB7s at a great price...
> 
> I thought; "what's the worst that can happen?", and fired them on regardless. After a wee bit of faffing around and a few kilometers with rotor rub they are bedded in fine and although the lever pull is a bit on the long side, they lock up and stop the bike loooooong before they run out of pull and bottom out against the drops.
> 
> One more more thing - I love how the Chinese are now jumping on the gravel grinder band wagon - I really do! The 3T Exploro is a lovely looking bike, but at that price? I would much rather go for the Pro.Mance (I effing love that name) china carbon gravel grinder. I even love the blue color scheme.


Great to hear! How's the cable stops holding up? And yes, I also love that the chinese are looking more into gravel frames. It also seems to be more and more in-house factory molds than the full open molds like fr-602 fx. Every chinese supplier is producing fr-602 by now


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## aske

Because we all like to look at broken carbon:

I was hit by a car with around 30km/h (the car, not me) straight from the side, around the crank area. I broke my wrist and got a lot of bruises. My helmet shattered as well and I was unconscious for a short while. But I'm fine. 
It's been a while now. Just got the cast off. But since the wrist is a delicate area, I'm not allowed ("not recommended") by the hospital to bicycle until the new year. 

I was crossing the road at a designated walking-/cycling-path and the car was at fault. Basically didn't see me until they hit me. The insurance case is ongoing.

So, I present to you: A broken fr-602 frame






















































​

This kind of impact testing is not usually tested at all, but I find that it handled the failure relatively well. My colleague was hit on a parking lot on his Cube cyclocross bike and the fork snapped completely on both sides. No snapping here, just a lot of cracks (5 visible).


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## Ghost_HTX

Damn, aske, that sucks. Lucky it was reasonably low speed, huh?

Poor 602, too. I cant see the pics, but I assume since you mention cracking that it is a total loss? Any parts salvagable? That was a sweet bike if it is the one from your earlier posts?

The cable stops are actually ok; they dont do anything other than make the entry holes into the frame prettier, as they are mesnt for hydro lines. The small bolts that hold them in place are rusty as eff already, though. Cheap steel...


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## MMsRepBike

aske said:


> Because we all like to look at broken carbon:





aske said:


> So, I present to you: A broken fr-602 frame
> 
> View attachment 317120
> 
> View attachment 317121
> 
> View attachment 317122
> 
> View attachment 317123
> 
> View attachment 317124
> 
> View attachment 317125
> 
> View attachment 317126
> 
> View attachment 317127
> 
> View attachment 317128
> ​


You'll have to edit your post to show the pictures.

Click edit post and then highlight and delete the pictures.
Re-upload them the same way you did before and this time they should show.


----------



## aske

Ghost_HTX said:


> Damn, aske, that sucks. Lucky it was reasonably low speed, huh?
> 
> Poor 602, too. I cant see the pics, but I assume since you mention cracking that it is a total loss? Any parts salvagable? That was a sweet bike if it is the one from your earlier posts?
> 
> The cable stops are actually ok; they dont do anything other than make the entry holes into the frame prettier, as they are mesnt for hydro lines. The small bolts that hold them in place are rusty as eff already, though. Cheap steel...


Sorry about the pics, I've updated the post. Should work now. The frame is a total loss. But I have 2 more 
Anyways, we are going to try to get the insurance to pay for a full "comparable" bike, which obviously gonna be more money than I paid for this in total. If that is going to be the case, then the insurance company owns the bike and we need to hand it over to them, and I can use the money on new parts for the new build. If not, then it's a part-by-part cost.


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## aske

MMsRepBike said:


> You'll have to edit your post to show the pictures.
> 
> Click edit post and then highlight and delete the pictures.
> Re-upload them the same way you did before and this time they should show.




Done


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## heybrady

Wow, that frame held up well for a car strike. Hope you are ok. 

Unrelated question (that will likely get a wide scope of responses): what equivalency is a China gravel/cross frame compared to name brand, prices being equal? For insatnce, is a $600 china carbon frame about the same performance/quality as a name brand aluminum frame? Better, worse? Just thinking of someone (maybe me) who has a frame budget of $600, would I be better off getting a slightly used name brand aluminum frame or a China carbon? The answer is probably not exact, but curious to get the thoughts of those on the thread. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## aske

heybrady said:


> Wow, that frame held up well for a car strike. Hope you are ok.
> 
> Unrelated question (that will likely get a wide scope of responses): what equivalency is a China gravel/cross frame compared to name brand, prices being equal? For insatnce, is a $600 china carbon frame about the same performance/quality as a name brand aluminum frame? Better, worse? Just thinking of someone (maybe me) who has a frame budget of $600, would I be better off getting a slightly used name brand aluminum frame or a China carbon? The answer is probably not exact, but curious to get the thoughts of those on the thread.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, I'm fine now  Yeah, it holded up surprisingly well, actually.

Hmm. As you say yourself, this is quite a question! 

First of all, you're comparing two different materials (as you already know). It's like comparing apples to oranges. If you would like alloy, then just go with a branded one with a good carbon fork.

In terms of carbon:

It's VERY dependent on the manufacturer. Some can be of high quality and some low. Even within the big brands there have been recalls of carbon frames and components. 
I would suggest that you (and everybody else) follow *luescher_teknik *on Instagram and Youtube. He's an old material Quality Assurance Inspector from Boeing, who's been running a carbon bicycle repair shop for many years. 
He has some very good insights into bicycle carbon quality. Let's just say that, when the big brands use the term "Aerospace grade carbon" take it with a grain of salt 

Personally, I like the thought of cutting out the middle man. I'm aware of the risks and I use A LOT of time researching. I have not had any issues so far, but of course open molds have its share of issues. Just like branded.
Sometimes the warranty is hard to claim if something goes wrong, and sometimes it's no problem. With branded bikes you are usually guaranteed some warranty by law (in most countries).

The main concern usually condense to the fact that you "just don't know" when dealing directly. That's why it's so important to do your research and hear about other peoples experiences. 
We should start a thread on recommended suppliers. Unless it would be flooded with fake post from the suppliers. I've heard they do that.

My opinion: If you like to fiddle with bikes and find the idea of building (and sourcing) your own bike appealing, then buying direct is definitely an option. But do some research and get some recommendations from people who did it. 
And lastly: DO NOT BUY COPIES! Copies are usually where you get the really funky carbon structural issues (old news papers, plastic, cotton fabric etc). Buy open molds from a reputed supplier.


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## CalypsoArt

Can anyone recommend a Chinese disk fork that will accommodate Schwalbe 700c, 35c, Folding Bead, MicroSkin tires? I want to swap out the aluminum fork on my Montague 700c frame. I've since learned that 29-er rigid forks are not appropriate. (way to big) what is the fattest tire the standard cross fork will handle?


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## heybrady

Most cross forks will clear 33c plus mud. I would think 35 will fit but may be tight if mud is involved. Most of the China forks I have seen show a blueprint of the fork. For instance, a frame I posted a few posts above shows an a2c of 396mm and the seller claims 40c clearance. 

Edit: you may have luck emailing seller and inquiring in a fork only purchase. 

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## CalypsoArt

heybrady said:


> Most cross forks will clear 33c plus mud. I would think 35 will fit but may be tight if mud is involved. Most of the China forks I have seen show a blueprint of the fork. For instance, a frame I posted a few posts above shows an a2c of 396mm and the seller claims 40c clearance.
> 
> Edit: you may have luck emailing seller and inquiring in a fork only purchase.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My bike is an urban commuter so mud should not be a problem. A few of the Chinese made eBay forks have dimensions, but many do not. I'll see how email communications go. Thanks.


----------



## CowtownCyclist

CalypsoArt said:


> Can anyone recommend a Chinese disk fork that will accommodate Schwalbe 700c, 35c, Folding Bead, MicroSkin tires? I want to swap out the aluminum fork on my Montague 700c frame. I've since learned that 29-er rigid forks are not appropriate. (way to big) what is the fattest tire the standard cross fork will handle?


I have had 35c on wide rims on my 602 and there is still loads of clearance. I could run a 40c with fenders and not have any trouble.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## ridesalot

I'm looking for an open mold CX/Gravel frame with similar geometry and build features as the Santa Cruz Stigmata and I've looked at most of the usual popular sellers like DengFu, HongFu, Workswell, Miracle, Flyxii, XmIplay, XmCarbonSpeed, eBay storefronts, others. I prefer the post mount caliper mounts but flat mount would be okay, low BB drop, similar wheelbase and top tube length, Thru-Axle or QR dropouts is okay, prefer BB type BSA but PF is okay if that is the only choice. 

Has anyone run across an open mold frame similar to the SC Stigmata or can recommend other options and sellers to look at?


----------



## Freeman

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:RelyOnVML/> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> Hi guys, I am new to this forum and would like to ask for a little help. Also, my apologies if this is the wrong place to post or you feel this has been answered elsewhere, I have looked. 
So, I seem to be a little lost and can’t see the wood for the trees, or maybe that should be the carbon for the coal. I have been looking for a cyclocross/gravel bike frame and seem to be lost in the various companies. I guess what I would like to know is if anyone has had dealing with any of these companies, how was it and what you think of the frames themselves. The frames I have narrowed it down to all have flat mounts and thru axles and the companies have all been on Alibaba for over three years. 

First up is the AC388 sold by both ICAN and IMUST 
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/prod...sign-carbon-cyclocross-frame_60549030878.html
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2017-Cyclocross-carbon-Frame-thru-axle_60558553595.html

Recommend Tyre Width 700*28~38 and can fit mudguards. Not sure about a rack though.
My worry about this frame is the front thru axle size, 100 x 12mm. I know that some bike makers are pushing to make this the standard for road bikes, but at this moment, I cannot find a skewer this size anywhere.

Second, we have the CX 028 from Miracle Bike and the WCB-R-112 form WorksWell, both the same frame as fair as I can tell.
https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.co...bicycle_frame_flat_mount_cyclocross_bike.html
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/workswell-newest-cyclocross-carbon-frame-di2_60543393107.html
Maximum tire width 700*40mm. Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle. 

The Next frame from Miracle Bike is the CX 535
https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.co...Cyclocross_bike_frame_thru_axle_142_12mm.html
This seems to be the update of the MC286 with flat mounts Maximum tire width 700*42mm. Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle.

The gravel frame from GR 029 Miracle Bike seem to be the same frame as the CX 028 but with a smaller maximum tire clearance (38mm)
https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.co...arbon_thru_axle_bike_frame_700_38C_GR029.html
My only problem with these frames is that through reading the forums it seems that Miracle Bike have themselves a bad reputation and I don’t know if Workswell are the same company.

Workswell’s Gravel frame is the WCB-R-125 
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2017-Workswell-Newest-Road-MTB-Gravel_60574896985.html
Max tire 700*40mm 27.5”*2.1” Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle.
Also I am not too sure about the seat post as it is custom to the bike.

The gravel bike from Carbonda is the CFR 505
https://carbonda.en.alibaba.com/product/60498803364-803724038/China_supplier_high_stiffness_gravel_bicycle_carbon_frame_cyc locross_full_carbon_frame.html
Max tire: 700c*40mm/650B*47mm. Mudguards and rack can be fitted. Pick of 12 or 15mm front axle. Maximum chainring size 50/34T or 46/36T

Thank for any help guys 
Freeman
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## Ghost_HTX

Well, my 603 might be completely ruined... After no more than 300km too...
I attempted a shift from the inner to the outer chain ring and BAM. 

The Chain jumped INWARDS, caught itself up between the inner ring and the frame and took a big chunk of the epoxy top layer (about the size of your American quarter) out of the junction between the drive side chain stay and the bottom bracket.

Since I was cycling to work and hadn't made it more than 20 meters from my door when this happened, I just ditched the bike at home and rushed off to get the train - I haven't had a chance to remove the drive side cranks / chain rings and have a look yet... I might be adding carbon frame repair to my CV, it seems...

The irritating thing is that I really fancied tubeless on by CX bike. So I bit the bullet and took it into the LBS. Tubeless rocks, but the mechanic also "had a look" at the shifting too... This is the second ride since I got it back and the first time I have actuated the front derailleur since he "had a look"... 

What sort of come back do I have here against the LBS?


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## MMsRepBike

Ghost_HTX said:


> Well, my 603 might be completely ruined... After no more than 300km too...
> I attempted a shift from the inner to the outer chain ring and BAM.
> 
> The Chain jumped INWARDS, caught itself up between the inner ring and the frame and took a big chunk of the epoxy top layer (about the size of your American quarter) out of the junction between the drive side chain stay and the bottom bracket.
> 
> This is the second ride since I got it back and the first time I have actuated the front derailleur since he "had a look"...
> 
> What sort of come back do I have here against the LBS?


A poorly installed and adjusted front mech is the only thing that'll cause your problem.

It's 100% mechanic error.

The first come back you should attempt is to never come back to that shop again.


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## Ghost_HTX

Yeah - I'm not going back there to have any more work done - I was wondering if the "last man frees all" principle applies here? i.e. HE was the last person to work on the bike before this bloody catastrophe - so it's his fault and therefore his responsibility to fix it? I at least want back the cash i paid for the "drive train service"

Tbh, the cost of the tubeless set up incl tires, sealant, labour and the "service" to the drive train cost almost as much as a new 603 frame...

Here are a couple of pics; you can see that the carbon fibre matrix itself isn't harmed - the chain has removed the epoxy filler (of which there was A LOT... the total thickness of the epoxy is something like three to five mm. Now I know why the carbon fibre weave finish fades to black at the frame junctions - they use epoxy filler to smooth out the frame and (probably) add strength and impact protection. 

I am not a happy bunny.


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## aske

I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?


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## Jkidd_39

aske said:


> I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?


Me too!!!

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## CowtownCyclist

aske said:


> I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?


I don't race much these days, a couple gravel grinders a year and the fall midweek cyclocross circuit, but I'm a pretty big guy and I commute on mine every day there isn't snow on the ground. I have a different bike for snow days. 

My commute is about 15km each way, so commuting I average about 150km a week plus weekend and evening rides. I'd guess I have about 8000-10000 km on it so far; some on gravel, lots on rough pavement, some on smooth pavement and a little on dirt.

Mine had been great. The internal cable routing is noisy as hell, I've siliconed all the ports to quiet it down. I know my buddy tried it and found the front end a little low, but that is a personal preference. I don't baby it all and it has had some pretty tough runs. I don't shy away from gravel, potholes, bunny hops and rail xings. With a change of clothes and my laptop I'm well North of 90kgs and I've never had problem. It has given me no cause for concern.

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## CowtownCyclist

Well, another 120km gravel road race done a year after her maiden voyage and she held up just as well as the first and my legs did bit better. What I'm really impressed with is the wheels. My clyde status and the brutal roads tend to take a toll on wheels but these are still spinning as true as when I retensioned them after this ride last year. I am a carbon rim convert at least so far as disc brakes are concerned. Two of my buddies broke spokes and I heard a lot of similar stories at the finish line.


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## aske

CowtownCyclist said:


> Well, another 120km gravel road race done a year after her maiden voyage and she held up just as well as the first and my legs did bit better. What I'm really impressed with is the wheels. My clyde status and the brutal roads tend to take a toll on wheels but these are still spinning as true as when I retensioned them after this ride last year. I am a carbon rim convert at least so far as disc brakes are concerned. Two of my buddies broke spokes and I heard a lot of similar stories at the finish line.


Cool! What frame? I guess I have 500kms on my fr-602 (with custom fork). Runs like a charm. Have a cfr-505 on the way. Looking forward to see the quality of that frame, since it's a step up in price.

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## KiloKilo7

Just bought a Ridley X-night frameset brand new. Thought I was buying a high end frame. Wanted to buy a reputable frame that was well built and tested so I bought the Ridley, BUT have a look at the fork pictures. See how the inner and outer materials seem to be different? Outside looks like carbon, but the inside material sure doesn't look like pure carbon.


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## aske

KiloKilo7 said:


> Just bought a Ridley X-night frameset brand new. Thought I was buying a high end frame. Wanted to buy a reputable frame that was well built and tested so I bought the Ridley, BUT have a look at the fork pictures. See how the inner and outer materials seem to be different? Outside looks like carbon, but the inside material sure doesn't look like pure carbon.
> View attachment 319602
> View attachment 319603
> View attachment 319604


Very interesting. Many open molds have this. I talked to a manufacturer about it. It's because many steerers are being formed around a fiber glass tube in the layup process. This tube is then usually removed after curing. But to cut costs on open molds they are sometimes left in. Ridley must be cutting costs. 
It shouldn't have any structural effects besides adding weight. It's not a method to use less carbon fiber. It's merely cutting corners on the finishing.
I must say, I didn't expect this from a big brand. 
The gap between open mould and branded frames are getting smaller, I guess.

Btw, is it the factory name that has been scratched out with yellow color? My guess would XDS Carbon Tech 

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## Migen21

As stated, that fiberglass tube you see inside the steerer isn't a structural part of the fork. It's just the mold that was used to to shape the tube.


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## KiloKilo7

1. It is just unsettling to me to see fiberglass in a fork. I read so many stories about cheap Chinese carbon makers using low quality materials in bike frames (yes there are some good ones too), and then to find a "corner cut" in a high end frame make me nervous. What other corner(s) did they cut? Comes down to trusting a bean counter with my life..

2.That might explain why the frame weighs 120 grams more than they listed on the sellers website (removed AFTER I bought). 

3. What also ticks me off is that the manufacture date is 9/2014 BUT they said it was a 2017 bike. I was kinda thinking the technology and materials would be within the last year.... aaaargh...


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## KiloKilo7

What causes me even more concern is that when I asked the Ridley seller about the seeming different material in the steerer tube, they said it was just a different color carbon !!!


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## aske

KiloKilo7 said:


> What causes me even more concern is that when I asked the Ridley seller about the seeming different material in the steerer tube, they said it was just a different color carbon !!!


Lol! The famous white carbon fiber. That's terrible coming from a company that should know about the technology they use. 
About the date. It could be that Ridley has purchased Taiwanese open mould frame and/or fork. The Taiwanese manufacturers also have big catalogues of pre-designed frames. In contrary to the Chinese manufacturers, only the cycle industry has access to these frames. Not us consumers. Could be an explanation for the old date... May I ask the price you paid for this frame?

EDIT: Forget about the Taiwan theory. It's pretty clearly made n China 

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## cs1

KiloKilo7 said:


> 1. It is just unsettling to me to see fiberglass in a fork. I read so many stories about cheap Chinese carbon makers using low quality materials in bike frames (yes there are some good ones too), and then to find a "corner cut" in a high end frame make me nervous. What other corner(s) did they cut? Comes down to trusting a bean counter with my life.


And that my friend is why God invented steel.


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## twiggy

KiloKilo7 said:


> What causes me even more concern is that when I asked the Ridley seller about the seeming different material in the steerer tube, they said it was just a different color carbon !!!


Just out of curiousity, was this a bike shop or online? You're sure its a real Ridley?


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## ms6073

KiloKilo7 said:


> Just bought a Ridley X-night frameset brand new. Thought I was buying a high end frame... Outside looks like carbon, but the inside material sure doesn't look like pure carbon.


Sorry, late to the party, but I am 99.9% certain that is not a genuine Ridley X-Night seeing as (a) Ridley frames are made in Taiwan, and (b) the fork should not have an aluminum crown race! Although it has been a while since I owned one, by comparison, my 2012 X-Night had a full carbon steer-tube and definitely no funky layers. A final check, call Ridley and have them verify the serial number but a quicker check would be to ensure the compression plug is branded as a 4ZA part (Ridley's in-house accessory brand.


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## aske

ms6073 said:


> Sorry, late to the party, but I am 99.9% certain that is not a genuine Ridley X-Night seeing as (a) Ridley frames are made in Taiwan, and (b) the fork should not have an aluminum crown race! Although it has been a while since I owned one, by comparison, my 2012 X-Night had a full carbon steer-tube and definitely no funky layers. A final check, call Ridley and have them verify the serial number but a quicker check would be to ensure the compression plug is branded as a 4ZA part (Ridley's in-house accessory brand.


But hasn't Ridley already confirmed this and called it "white carbon"...? Also, it's not that crazy unlikely that the frame production has been subcontracted to China...

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## ms6073

aske said:


> Also, it's not that crazy unlikely that the frame production has been subcontracted to China...


Believe what you want, but I stand by my assertion that the fork pictured in the OP's images is highly unlikely to be from a genuine Ridley frameset!


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## Huckit25

I found this thread very helpful as I went through the process of building a commuter. Thanks!

A perfect example of scope creep. At the start of the project I wanted a something with gears to replace my single speed Genesis day one for my 13km commute... but still something I could lock up in the city and not worry.
Ended up with this. 

Flyxii 603

Had an issue with the back brake mount (some details here http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bi...rect-version-7-0-a-346068-32.html#post4835797) and not completely happy with the choice in bars. But overall it turned out very nice.

Only thing I have left is mud guards. Any recommendations from those with FR602/603?

Thanks!


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## scycotic

I realize this thread has been quiet for a while, but I figured I'd offer some of my experience since I've learned a lot from previous posts!

Decided to build my first carbon bike using a Flyxii FR-603 frame. Intended as a 1x10 flat bar multi-use bike, that I can take bikepacking, commuting, road riding, etc. Contacted Flyxii directly since I couldn't find what I wanted on Aliexpress or eBay (53cm UD Matt BSA), and received the frame last month. They offered to include a headset and seatpost clamp, but this was missing from the package. Emailed them and they sent it out afterwards.

Unfortunately, I just started building up the frame and realized they had one of the fork brake mount screws cross-threaded from the factory, just emailed them to see if they'll do anything. There was also epoxy in the BB threads but I happen to have BB taps so that was fine. Could have been an issue for many builders though!


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