# New Road Bike/ Help Figuring out fit



## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Hey everyone I am new to this forum. I am excited to ride my road bike everyday. Only problem is I may have a bike that is too big. I know there are going to be many that will just tell me to sell my bike and get a new one, but I just love it so much I don't know if I am ready yet to let it go. 

Anyway here are some pictures of me on the bike and I would like to be helped out on figuring out what to do to make the bike fit better since its a tad big 55cm Orbea Orca

I know off the bat that I am overextending a bit (which would mean lowering the seat...and it's already low as some people would say.

Anyway anything helpful would be great. Thanks!


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## Upnorth (Jul 4, 2013)

How tall are you? First thing I would do if feeling extended is: get a shorter stem, it will put you more upright. I'm not familiar with your bike so I'm not sure if that is factory seat post or not? It would appear to be swept back considerably. You may be able to replace it with straight post to bring you forward some more. The bike does not appear to be far off size wise. I think it is set up for aggressive riding position and if your not going to be racing anytime soon you may prefer a more upright/ relaxed position.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Stop fighting it and get the right size. I don't see how you could adapt that frame to get you in a comfortable position.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Well the frame is comfortable for me. But I know technically it's not scientifically the best. thats why I am reaching out to the forum.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

I am 5'9 and that is a good point ill look into that


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

The frame is too large for you. Once you're at that point, you either sell the bike or 'make it fit', meaning you lower the saddle and install a shorter stem. BUT... the frame will still be too large for you, and your f/r weight distribution *may* be off enough to adversely affect handling. 

Not to be defeatist, but odds are good you'll never have that 'dialed in' feeling that many riders talk about - and probably not ride the bike a whole lot.


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## deapee (May 7, 2014)

You look fine. Set your saddle height for your pedal stroke...nothing more, nothing less.

Shorten your stem and raise it up a bit to fix your reach.

From the pics you gave us, it looks ok to me. The best is a video with the bike on a trainer while you pedal, but i realize some people don't have that capability.

5'9" at 55cm is probably pretty near perfect. You probably want a 54, but dude that bike is close enough, you can get it to work. Like I said, if the reach feels long, shorten the stem and raise it a little. A little bit makes a big difference. I think you can dial that in no problem at all. Just start with your saddle properly adjusted for your pedal stroke, and go from there. Do not lower your saddle to fix your reach.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Level the saddle!! Don't use saddle tilt-down as a way to get a lower saddle.
Fit a straight seapost with no setback. The saddle is jammed forward on its adjustment.
Get a 100mm stem. Is that a 130mm?
Resist the temptation to flip the stem over.
Rotate the bars up *slightly*.
Maybe lower the saddle a bit. Do *not* ride with it too high.

Consider getting a bike fit from a *competent* person (good luck in finding a competent one).

If these steps don't work, get a smaller frame.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

romoxx said:


> Hey everyone I am new to this forum. I am excited to ride my road bike everyday. Only problem is I may have a bike that is too big. I know there are going to be many that will just tell me to sell my bike and get a new one, but I just love it so much I don't know if I am ready yet to let it go.


Don't confuse love of riding a bike to love of a particular bike. If you love riding a bike that doesn't fit just imagine how much you'd love riding one that does?


I assume you're new to the sport so I'd suggest starting out right by getting a bike that fits. You can compromise and be okay for the rides typical of a new rider but as mileage and effort increases fit problems really start to manifest. For example your saddle is way forward and I strongly suspect that is to shorten the reach and not to place it where is best for your knees and weight distribution. That'll be a big problem that may cause injury when/if you get to the point of doing long rides with sustained high effort.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

Frame is too big. Orbea's sizing is bigger than others. IOW, op should probably be on a 51 in that frame. Op probably needs a 535 to less than a 550 TT. I think the op frame is over 560 mm. 

While an old school estimation, draw an imaginary line between his eyes and front hub. I would guess op need a less than 60mm stem to get the bars b/t his eyes and hub. 

My guess is op will keep the frame. So, buy the shortest stem you can (80 or 90) and get short reach bars.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Yea unless I find someone to do a trade or sell it then I will most likely get that 90mm stem


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

that doesn't look like a 100cm stem. not sure what the talk of 90cm is but if you haven't shortened the stem, try. I can see why you love the bike and why you fell in love with the slick carbon look, but you won't ride it as much as a bike that fits. There's a big difference between feeling planted and steady....and constantly reaching. Also, keep in mind that your muscles tense up - and shrink under load - your rested position isn't your 40 miles into it position. 

After few years on the bike I got re-fit earlier this season. I see a lot of people on this board with their seat slammed all the way back on the rails, with their arse hanging over the back wheel.... most usually with like a 90 +17 stem, a tilted seat or some other similar eyesore. As of recently, I am really enjoying my new position which has me more over the bb (less setback). My average cadence went through the roof my bars dropped a whole bunch and I am comfier then ever. I suppose it's less of a touring setup and more geared to do my work on the bike and go home. My hip flexors aren't tight as all get out either. Point is...not every seat needs to be slamed back on the rails. Point #2, never move seat forward to shorten reach

go to ebay and buy a used stem or two. If you're getting closer consider the specs of your handlebar...they vary from 7cm to 8.5cm....that's at least one stem size down.... but all this will be throwing good money after... let's just call it slightly bad. Look, if your bars are level with your seat and you're still tilting them up to shorten reach... there's an issue with reach.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Maybe minor issue, but how long are the cranks on that thing? Guessing you may want 172.5 or even 170 if your legs are on the short side, but those could be 175s or longer even...


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## smokersteve (May 22, 2016)

Orbea's run large. Their 55 is more like a 58. At 5'9 an Orbea 53 or even a 51 would work much better


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Yea this is a tough pill to swallow. So I am looking for some feedback on options I have. I can sell the bike and use that money to buy a 52cm 2013 Scott Foil 30. Or I can save up money and buy a new stem/possibly crank/ and a proper bike fit (running me an extra 500$ about) 

What are your guys thoughts? I would keep my reynolds wheels and sell the bike with some kysriums. Otherwise I would keep it and just piece by piece save and put money back into this bike. :-\


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

The bike is a money pit for you. 

Sell it and consider the loss the price of tuition for an education in bike fit. We've ALL been there; it's just some of us learned harder (read: more expensive) lessons than others.

Then go out and buy a bike that's better sized for you.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

So peter you think the 13 Foil 30 at 52 would be better? I guess I am never going pro so this is purely for riding exercising and love of the sport


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

romoxx said:


> Yea this is a tough pill to swallow. So I am looking for some feedback on options I have. I can sell the bike and use that money to buy a 52cm 2013 Scott Foil 30. Or* I can save up money and buy a new stem/possibly crank/ and a proper bike fit* (running me an extra 500$ about)
> 
> What are your guys thoughts? I would keep my reynolds wheels and sell the bike with some kysriums. Otherwise I would keep it and just piece by piece save and put money back into this bike. :-\


On the bold statement, sizing comes before fit, so if sizing is off (which on this bike, I'm confident it is), then no fitter is going to get your fit dialed in. What's going to happen is s/he's going to make a series of compromises to get your fit as good as it can get. 

More thoughts. Talking about shortish stems on a medium sized frame and no setback posts only confirms that the frame is too large for you... as does the saddle's current height/ fore/ aft positions. 

I suggest cutting your loses and either selling or trading the bike. Find a reputable shop or shops and ride some bikes. And try not to get emotional over this. Many of us RBR members see this a lot - people picking bikes that get their adrenaline going, then after a short period of time, we don't see much of them on the forum. Who knows the reasons, but I'd bet oftentimes that road rocket is sitting gathering dust in their garage.

Bikes are tools. Go find one that suites your intended purposes and fits your budget and anatomy.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

romoxx said:


> Yea this is a tough pill to swallow. So I am looking for some feedback on options I have. I can sell the bike and use that money to buy a 52cm 2013 Scott Foil 30. Or I can save up money and buy a new stem/possibly crank/ and a proper bike fit (running me an extra 500$ about)
> 
> What are your guys thoughts? I would keep my reynolds wheels and sell the bike with some kysriums. Otherwise I would keep it and just piece by piece save and put money back into this bike. :-\


Sell the bike and use the money to buy a frame you and a qualified fitter figure is best.

Don't target a specific bike until it's confirmed it'll work for you. Not offense but if you made this mistake you're probably prone to make another and again not offence but judging by the pictures you don't look like the type of rider that would be best off on a flat out aggressive short head tube racing bike. So while trading a 52 foil may be an improvement it would be just another mistake (I'm guessing).


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

It still wouldn't surprise me if you could actually make this bike work with some component changes, but if you are trying to decide between a 55 on one bike and 52 on another, despite brands, you may need to go see a shop/fitter for some advice (and keep in mind said advice may not be free). Have you brought your bike to a shop for fitting advice, yet?

It's a pretty cool frame, touted as the 2008 Olympic road race winner, etc. It would not surprise me if the original owner had the opposite issue and got a bike too small, hence change to long stem, long cranks, etc. You shouldn't spend too much on a stem (at least at first) and you can probably make back whatever you spend on the cranks by buying used and then selling the ones you have.

Others have a point, though, if it's not going to fit in the end, sell it. Somebody should pay well if it's in good condition, although it is circa 2009 in model year.

Lastly, regarding keeping the wheels... if the wheels are as old as the bike, they may not be 11-speed compatible. Keep that in mind if you were thinking to keep them to put on a newer bike.


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

jetdog9 said:


> It still wouldn't surprise me if you could actually make this bike work with some component changes, but if you are trying to decide between a 55 on one bike and 52 on another, despite brands, you may need to go see a shop/fitter for some advice


I don't think I am disagreeing with you. . . 

But, OP bike is more conventionally termed a 56. it is not really a choice of one size too big (51 vs 53). OP likely on a frame two sizes too big (sizes being 51, 53, 55).

While one may be able to combine available parts to make the frame "fit" (e.g. super short mtb stem), the bike would be a freak show combination of components. 

As a metaphor - You could tailor fat man pants fit a skinny man. You would end up with "pants". But to make the pants fit, the back pockets may end up touching each other - Hence freak show fit. 

Cut your losses. Don't spend good money (real fit is more than $100) to make the bike "fit". It doesn't. No amount of adjustments and new parts will make the frame smaller.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

romoxx said:


> So peter you think the 13 Foil 30 at 52 would be better? I guess I am never going pro so this is purely for riding exercising and love of the sport


I see you're 5'9". What's your inseam? Measure it THIS WAY. And what's your shoe size?

I need those numbers to give you a better idea of what should fit.

Or you could use any of the bike fit calculators on the internet such as the one from Competitive Cyclist.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Inseam 30, size 8.5-9 US


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

romoxx said:


> Inseam 30, size 8.5-9 US


Get the 53cm. That will fit your upper body length better as you have a long torso vs. inseam, considering your body height. Based on your inseam alone, you could fit the 51cm frame, but you'd have that ridiculous, pro-rider differential between the seat height and the bar height.


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## mackgoo (Mar 2, 2004)

Everything looks fine except your saddle height. Do what people say for lowering your saddle. Don't fall into the trap and shortening the stem and making it into a mountain bike.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

jetdog9 said:


> Have you brought your bike to a shop for fitting advice, yet?


This. Go to a reputable bike shop that is well known and respected within the biking community. Read: One who will tell you the truth, rather than just trying to make an easy buck off you. They do exist.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

175 cranks too long


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## ra21benj (Sep 29, 2015)

I’m also 5’ 9” with a 30 in. inseam and skinny build. 

Current roadbike specs./set-up are:

Frame sized medium, 54.5 cm horizontal top tube and 52.5 cm seat tube. 
170 mm cranks
78mm compact reach handle bars
-17 degree, 100 mm stem with 15mm spacers below stem
0 setback seatpost
saddle set as far forward as it will go.

Set-up is from trial and error and not a professional bike fit.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

jetdog9 said:


> 175 cranks too long


Um, yeah definitely! I would recommend 170.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

as someone before has said... we've ALL been there before. Get a fit first....you'll need it either way. Then sell the bike. The fit will tell you the ideal stack and reach of your frame/bike. Then go shopping with confidence.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

*Update..*



9W9W said:


> as someone before has said... we've ALL been there before. Get a fit first....you'll need it either way. Then sell the bike. The fit will tell you the ideal stack and reach of your frame/bike. Then go shopping with confidence.



Oddly enough I took time to kinda of see what was up with the bike and so I did 2 things:

Bought a straight seatpost (no setback)
Slammed the stem
Leveled the saddle 

Those 3 things basically helped me and although I am running a 120 stem currently it doesn't feel like my reach is strained but maybe time will tell over the course of 60+ miles 

then I will reasses and check out getting a shorter stem maybe 100mm. Now I just have to adjust my shoe cleat position since my left leg feels awesome but my right had some ITB soreness after my ride today.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

romoxx said:


> Oddly enough I took time to kinda of see what was up with the bike and so I did 2 things:
> 
> Bought a straight seatpost (no setback)
> Slammed the stem
> ...


Here's a link to some ITB info, along with possible causes:
CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -

Given your recent changes, consider faulty saddle height or fore/ aft position and/ or cleat alignment as possible causes. "Slamming the stem" lowered position and extended reach, and the requisite pelvic tilt may well have contributed to the ITB pain, IMO.

I still hold to 1) selling the bike, or 2) getting a bike fit, but if you're going the DIY route, determine your correct saddle height, set a neutral KOPS (to start) and re-level the saddle, if necessary. 

From there, look at reach. Keep the saddle adjustments alone and start by raising the stem and adjusting reach with different stem lengths. Go from there with tweaks/ adjustments.

As a side note, keeping that amount of spacers above the stem is scary. Once you get reach/ saddle to bar drop set, fix that ASAP.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Here's a link to some ITB info, along with possible causes:
> CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -
> 
> Given your recent changes, consider faulty saddle height or fore/ aft position and/ or cleat alignment as possible causes. "Slamming the stem" lowered position and extended reach, and the requisite pelvic tilt may well have contributed to the ITB pain, IMO.
> ...



Yea I have and will keep monitoring the adjustments. My saddle height is 70mm. I'll get a neutral KOPS and relevel the saddle then reach. I just barely slammed the stem so I know there are alot of spacers. I'll have the bike for sale so i probably wont cut the steerer until i decided to keep it or find a buyer.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Also keep in mind for road cycling 175mm cranks are typically meant for people like 6' tall. I know I keep bringing this up and cranks are expensive... this is the last time I'll mention it.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Yea, talked to the guy who will be doing the bike fit in a week and he said thats the last thing he will worry about. So it's currently on the back burner.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

romoxx said:


> Yea, talked to the guy who will be doing the bike fit in a week and he said thats the last thing he will worry about.


Agree--crank length doesn't matter much. Many shorter riders do well with long cranks, many tall riders prefer short cranks. The back burner is the right place for crank length considerations.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

wim said:


> Agree--crank length doesn't matter much. Many shorter riders do well with long cranks, many tall riders prefer short cranks. The back burner is the right place for crank length considerations.


Add to above: 175 mm cranks used to be standard for mountain bikes, as they give slightly better leverage than 170s, helpful while getting out of creek beds and up steep deer tracks. On the road, 170s are easier to spin. Steady state, moderate grades, spinning is the way to go.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

It seems you leveled the seat rails and not the seating surface. Usually, you want the seat surface to be level to ever so slightly leaning forward, the tilt of the seat rails doesn't matter.

For me ITB pain is seat too high, or cleats too far out away from bike or too far in towards the bike.

Also consider that cranks 5mm shorter will allow you to run a seat that's higher, which in turn may afford you more seat to bar drop on a big frame...or just move the bars slightly closer (because HTA is sloped) though I guess the STA is also sloping so that cancels out.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

romoxx said:


> Oddly enough I took time to kinda of see what was up with the bike and so I did 2 things:
> 
> Bought a straight seatpost (no setback)
> Slammed the stem
> ...


That stem looks pretty long! We used to figure if the front of the handlebars where the brake levers are located, is vertical above the front wheel hub, fore aft balance and control is perfect. So that bike could easy take a 10 mm stem.

That saddle is pointed down quite a bit. It's not level. Gotta put a straight edge on top of saddle and level the straight edge. Otherwise, butt is going to be sliding forward all the time, and your arms will hurt pushing the butt back on the saddle.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Fredrico said:


> That stem looks pretty long! We used to figure if the front of the handlebars where the brake levers are located, is vertical above the front wheel hub, fore aft balance and control is perfect. So that bike could easy take a 10 mm stem.
> 
> That saddle is pointed down quite a bit. It's not level. Gotta put a straight edge on top of saddle and level the straight edge. Otherwise, butt is going to be sliding forward all the time, and your arms will hurt pushing the butt back on the saddle.



Alright new update: Found a buyer for my Orbea. It sucks to sell it since its so awesome..

A friend wants to sell me his 2007 Fuji Team RC
he used it in races (and raced it hard at nationals etc back in 09-10) 
he wants to sell it for 700 or so with speedplay pedals and throw in some shoes.

What do you guys think? It's a 52 and fits fine..but I wonder if with that same amount I can buy a better bike...his has durace which I know for that year was great but now may be outdated a ton.

Anyway..thoughts?


2007 Fuji Team RC - New and Used Bike Value


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

romoxx said:


> Alright new update: Found a buyer for my Orbea. It sucks to sell it since its so awesome..
> 
> A friend wants to sell me his 2007 Fuji Team RC
> he used it in races (and raced it hard at nationals etc back in 09-10)
> ...


Since you'd need special equipment to be certain there were no defects or damage internally, I wouldn't recommend buying used CF, especially a bike that's been raced. And remember, any OE components have ~9 years of use and will need to be replaced.

If you do decide you're interested, before purchasing, I suggest bringing the bike to a reputable LBS for mechanical as well as fit assessment. They could also ball park the street value. 

However, IMO a better option would be to buy new from a reputable LBS. There, you'll get sizing/ fit assistance, a warranty and post purchase services. The bike won't be CF, but it'll serve you well (and reliably) for many years to come.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352;5056198 [I said:


> However, IMO a better option would be to buy new from a reputable LBS. There, you'll get sizing/ fit assistance, a warranty and post purchase services. The bike won't be CF, but it'll serve you well (and reliably) for many years to come[/I].


Agree with all that. But for $700 new, you're going to get a bike that's in that dull grey zone of unspectacular performance, average-to-low-end components and entry-level wheels. If that's OK, not a problem.

Were I the OP, I'd make that Orbea work for me with the help of a good fitter and ignore all the "it's too big!" comments from others until there's some money to get something a bit more exciting (and which fits, of course). Full disclosure: I grew up with hand-me downs from a big brother, so "too big" was just the way it was for me. Never bothered me much, and I rarely got dropped back in those days on those bikes "too big."


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

How do you know it fits if you don't know what a correct fit is?

You already took a spill on this once in a lifetime used deal. Why rush into the other one? Have the fit done. Take your stack and reach data and compare it to the Fuji to see what you'd need to change to get your fit right. The fit isn't on a bike, it's a fit of your body, you can then look at other bikes and with the help of a level and measuring tape set bikes up to fit like the rig you were fitted on. 

Your friends bike isn't going anywhere. No need to rush it. 

When I looked to get into road riding I quickly realized $700 isn't going to get me far. I was a bit shocked because to me $700 was a lot of money. I don't mean to sound like a [BEEP] but you have to adjust your expectations or budget.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

9W9W said:


> How do you know it fits if you don't know what a correct fit is?
> 
> You already took a spill on this once in a lifetime used deal. Why rush into the other one? Have the fit done. Take your stack and reach data and compare it to the Fuji to see what you'd need to change to get your fit right. The fit isn't on a bike, it's a fit of your body, you can then look at other bikes and with the help of a level and measuring tape set bikes up to fit like the rig you were fitted on.
> 
> ...


Yes. I was going to say last night, this bike might be one size too large, but looking at the pictures above, rider doesn't look all that stretched out on the hoods. A simple 2 cm decrease in stem length would probably do it, if saddle is close to proper height.

As wim suggests, big bikes are fine for road riding. A rider 5'9" could definitely ride comfortably on this bike. If you like it, keep it, by all means. Don't give up the good stuff to get a smaller bike that will be a step down in quality, and some gorilla has ridden the hell out of. 

Level the saddle; put a 100 mm stem on that beaut, and ride the hell out of it. In a year, you'll know much more precisely what you want for the next bike!


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Fredrico said:


> Yes. I was going to say last night, this bike might be one size too large, but looking at the pictures above, rider doesn't look all that stretched out on the hoods. A simple 2 cm decrease in stem length would probably do it, if saddle is close to proper height.
> 
> As wim suggests, big bikes are fine for road riding. A rider 5'9" could definitely ride comfortably on this bike. If you like it, keep it, by all means. Don't give up the good stuff to get a smaller bike that will be a step down in quality, and some gorilla has ridden the hell out of.
> 
> Level the saddle; put a 100 mm stem on that beaut, and ride the hell out of it. In a year, you'll know much more precisely what you want for the next bike!



This forum has turned into quite the event. Some people say "BIG IS TOO BIG GET RID OF IT" and others are now saying "It doesn't look that bad, just get fit and make it work" 

FYI to those that told me to level out the saddle (correctly this time i think) .i did so today and it felt much better everywhere. I am so use to those straight flat saddles that are easy to level that this one kind of confused me. Nevertheless i actually didnt feel any ITB pain on my right knee today, it was incredible.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

romoxx said:


> This forum has turned into quite the event. Some people say "BIG IS TOO BIG GET RID OF IT" and others are now saying "It doesn't look that bad, just get fit and make it work"


You asked for advice, and you're getting it.

Remember, this forum has a very diverse group of cyclists (some, decades apart from others), all with varying degrees of knowledge/ experience. Now, combine that with experiences forming opinions, and yes, you'll get a full spectrum of thoughts/ ideas. 

And, we all think we're giving you the best advice. 

That said, much of the advice isn't that different. For instance, most here aren't saying the bike isn't too big, they're just offering various solutions for a bike the majority *think* may be too large for you. And the methods you're using to "make it fit" kind of affirm that fact. 

If you want to keep the bike, by all means, do so. I personally would give up some bling for a well fitting bike with Sora, but that's just me. I also hate fixies/ SS's, and others here love them. To each his or her own, and as always, YMMV.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

romoxx said:


> This forum has turned into quite the event. Some people say "BIG IS TOO BIG GET RID OF IT" and others are now saying "It doesn't look that bad, just get fit and make it work"
> 
> FYI to those that told me to level out the saddle (correctly this time i think) .i did so today and it felt much better everywhere. I am so use to those straight flat saddles that are easy to level that this one kind of confused me. Nevertheless i actually didnt feel any ITB pain on my right knee today, it was incredible.


Technically, someone 5' 9" with average proportions will fit a 54-56 frame, measured along the effective top tube, Your Orbea top tube is 54.5, right? That's right between the two sizes.

The stem looks at least 120 mm. A 100 mm stem would work fine on that size bike, as well as 170 mm cranks. Previous rider could have put the long stem and 175 mm cranks on because the bike was too small for him. At your height, the legs can handle either size cranks. The 175s will give slightly better torque; the 170s slightly better "spin." 

Bike shops are afraid to sell a bike that's "too big," probably because they're wannabe racers and racers like to ride the smallest frames they can fit, for the slightly quicker handling racing in crits. And that isn't necessarily true, as a large bike with aggressive geometry, steep steering angles and seat tubes, and short wheelbases, rides just as aggressive as a smaller frame. Larger frames absorb shocks better and are more comfortable as a result. They also give a roomier "cockpit," which enables the back to be flat, opens up the chest and enhances breathing when called upon, climbing for instance. 

If you want to get more data to work with, check out the fit programs on Wrench Science, Colorado Cyclist, Competitive Cyclist, and see how they measure up with the Orbea dimensions. Heck, if you have a long torso and relatively short legs, the larger bike will fit better as far as reach, and the handlebars won't be too low, which would transfer upper body weight onto the front wheel, making the bike handle like a squirrel.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

I've noticed that a lot of older folks love riding bikes one to two sizes too large with bars dead level. How can one climb out of the saddle, which inevitably causes the bike to tilt side to side, when the top tube is literally brushing ones testicles to begin with? 

To the OP: 
1- The position you feel now is NOT the position when you are thirty miles into your ride and your fatigued muscles have shortened due to use. 
2- Reaching the bars and the bars being the correct distance away are two entirely different things. Reaching for bars, even slightly, has big implications on torso angle, resulting weight distribution...gooch pain, numb hands, etc...
3- a fit will give you stack and reach numbers...armed with those frame shopping is as easy as check GEO....visualize small changes to get to your numbers....click buy. 

I hope you don't cancel that fit (hopefully with a competent fitter). Road cycling isn't cheap, but this the right way to go about it.


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

9W9W said:


> I've noticed that a lot of older folks love riding bikes one to two sizes too large with bars dead level. How can one climb out of the saddle, which inevitably causes the bike to tilt side to side, when the top tube is literally brushing ones testicles to begin with?
> 
> To the OP:
> 1- The position you feel now is NOT the position when you are thirty miles into your ride and your fatigued muscles have shortened due to use.
> ...


Agree, handlebars dead level with saddle puts too much weight on the saddle and not enough to control the front wheel. But all it takes is 2 inches drop to get 40% on bars and 60% on saddle, about perfect for-aft balance and good bike control. OP is about there.

True, reach is different than drop, but too much of either will induce discomfort in lower back, shoulders, arms and hands, as rider can no longer use his back to support upper body weight. He's "falling" into the handlebars and supporting too much weight on his arms and shoulders either way. 

Competitive Cyclist refers to the slightly higher "stack" as "the Eddy fit," the way racers rode up until the 90s, and even now you'll see handlebars up around 2 inches drop from saddle height in the pro pelotons.

Have to disagree on necessarily getting a fit from the LBS. Their information is the same as the internet fit programs, for one thing. But the worst thing is very few bike shop employees are well educated on fit. They have their opinions, but man, I've seen them all over the map. :shocked: I wouldn't trust them, especially forking over a hundred bucks. Forget it. Do it yourself. It ain't rocket science if you're paying attention and are willing to get into it. I've seen LBS fit a customer on a bike. The customer has no idea what good fit feels like, so he suffers discomfort and doesn't change fit because he believes he will "adjust" to the recommendations of the fitter. If it doesn't work, change it. The body will tell you when that is necessary or desirable. 

Bikes are like shoes: you gotta try 'em on, or ride it, to find out how comfortable its going to be. So far, so good, right? Do what 9W9W suggests, take a 2 hour ride and see how you feel afterwards. Report back and let us know. If there are problems, we could probably figure it out.


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Fredrico said:


> Agree, handlebars dead level with saddle puts too much weight on the saddle and not enough to control the front wheel. But all it takes is 2 inches drop to get 40% on bars and 60% on saddle, about perfect for-aft balance and good bike control. OP is about there.
> 
> True, reach is different than drop, but too much of either will induce discomfort in lower back, shoulders, arms and hands, as rider can no longer use his back to support upper body weight. He's "falling" into the handlebars and supporting too much weight on his arms and shoulders either way.
> 
> ...


So I hope I didn't come across as rude. I certainly am grateful for everyone's advice! So update...went to lbs showed him this thread. We had a good laugh. He understood what's going on so we spent a good hour on the trainer and had a fit. Goniometer read 35 degree ideal. Seat was adjusted and then he said the stem was also too long so we placed a 90mm stem and it felt different I didn't realize how far stretched out I was. Nevertheless they weren't changes that I thought would be as bad. So now it fits and feels good and measured correctly. For future notice thiugh I would work on a felt in 51 with a longer stem but am just right at a 53 felt and Orbea. I got fitted at an orbea dealer since the geometry is different and he knew exactly what model my bike was etc.he just charged me for the stem which was nice .ill update with a photo when I get home


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

romoxx said:


> So I hope I didn't come across as rude. I certainly am grateful for everyone's advice! So update...went to lbs showed him this thread. We had a good laugh. He understood what's going on so we spent a good hour on the trainer and had a fit. Goniometer read 35 degree ideal. Seat was adjusted and then he said the stem was also too long so we placed a 90mm stem and it felt different I didn't realize how far stretched out I was. Nevertheless they weren't changes that I thought would be as bad. So now it fits and feels good and measured correctly. For future notice thiugh I would work on a felt in 51 with a longer stem but am just right at a 53 felt and Orbea. I got fitted at an orbea dealer since the geometry is different and he knew exactly what model my bike was etc.he just charged me for the stem which was nice .ill update with a photo when I get home


Good you found a competent fitter!  Give it a few more rides and assess how your body feels afterwards. I think you're on course! :thumbsup:


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## romoxx (Jul 17, 2016)

Fredrico said:


> Good you found a competent fitter!  Give it a few more rides and assess how your body feels afterwards. I think you're on course! :thumbsup:


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

romoxx said:


> View attachment 315434
> View attachment 315435


Looks good. 

You could rotate the hoods down a bit. They'll be more comfortable resting your hands on level hoods, IME.

The saddle is horizontal in the middle, but that lip on the back will make it hard to sit back there. I'd want the saddle to be leveled using a bubble level, resting on the back and nose. But leave it there if you're not sliding forward all the time.

Now ya gotta do a 20 mile test ride!


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