# 3K budget 1st road bike thoughts guys?



## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

I'm completely new to this but I just want to get one bike and then used it at least for 5 years that's why i'm willing to spend 3k. 
I tried out some bikes today specialized tarmac series and roubaix and cerevelo r2
Initially i wanted to try cerevelo's s2 but they didn't have my size. I looked into giant's propel advanced 1 and it seemed to be a good juicy offer with ultegra group set...going to try the bmc SR03 with the s2 and was wondering whether or not i should try out the propel advanced 1 as well...comments guys....and any bikes u guys recommend...i think i liked the cerevelo r2...the tarmac seemed harder to go up hill....that's my thought....the 3k budget is only for the bike.


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## Sanders (May 13, 2013)

Almost any bike at that price level will be a good bike.
The point is determining wich bike is good for YOU, it has to fit you.
That's something only you can feel, during a good test run. Unfortunatly we cannot advice you there. 
Pick up a dealer you can trust, and go with the brand it has in shop. 
Decide on the type of ride you're going to do, and base the bike geometry on that.


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## SauronHimself (Nov 21, 2012)

My personal opinion is that Specialized and Cervelo bikes are overpriced for what specs are offered. I think you'll get a bit more value with a brand like Giant. However, we don't know what kind of riding style you'll be doing. If you let us know what kind of terrain you want to ride and how relaxed you want the fit to be, that will help.


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## jeepsouth (Nov 28, 2011)

Right now, if I was going to spend $3000, I would buy the Cannondale CAAD 10 with Ultegra, and spend the $800-$1000 I'm saving on having some nice wheels made. With some nice hand-built wheels, the CAAD 10 is all the bike you'll ever need. 
I'm not saying this is the absolute best thing for you, just that that is what I'd do with $3000. And I did do this, BTW.
This set-up set me back $2986.76 last month.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Are you new to cycling? are you currently a everyday jogger now?

I ask those questions because if you're new to any sport that requires physical exertion almost every day, spending 3K for a bike for a first time physical activity hobby is just plain nuts! Why you scream? because 70% of all first time physical fitness activities people quit after 6 months tops, this is why fitness centers over book their memberships, this is why you can find lightly used fitness machines in garage sales and on Craigslist as well as bikes, and you'll join the ranks of having expensive garage art. If you're not physically active now I would spend no more than $500 for a bike and that includes accessories unless you have more money than God and 3K is just pocket change.

If you're doing some sort of physical activity now like running on a regular basis for more than a year then you should be good to go.

This is just an idea for you to toss around. For 3K you could get a entry level Lynskey R140 titanium bike with all Shimano 105 for $2,555 on sale right now. You can even upgrade via swap if you get the bike through Adrenalin Bikes if you want some slightly different stuff, for example on mine I swapped the Lynskey fork for Enve 2.0, the rear 105 derailleur for Ultegra, FSA headset for a Cane Creek 110, and standard cables for Dura Ace 9000 and my total including pedals was $3,100. But nothing rides as smooth as titanium, plus it's a lifetime material, won't rust, corrode, gouge, chip, or smell bad in warm weather, easiest frame material to care for just wipe down with Windex, scratches can be removed with a ScotchBrite pad (if you have a brushed finish like the Lynskey).


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

yeah, dropping $3K on a bike before you know if you even like the sport is a questionable move.

I'd look around for something used and see how much you actually end up riding...


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## obed (Jan 12, 2014)

what someone else thinks you should spend on a bike does not matter...
what matters is that you get a bike that fits you and feels good to you when you ride it...
any of the major brand bikes in your price range are going to be quality bikes and there will be very little real difference there...
it is the type of riding you are going to do that will determine the type bike you get... and how it feels to you is what counts.
most of the suggestions you will get here as to brand will be simply personal preference... chevy/ford type of thing...
I have 4 bikes that I ride regularly...4 different brands....I am not brand loyal at all, I buy according to the type of ride I plan to do and how the bike feels to me.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

froze said:


> Are you new to cycling? are you currently a everyday jogger now?
> 
> I ask those questions because if you're new to any sport that requires physical exertion almost every day, spending 3K for a bike for a first time physical activity hobby is just plain nuts! Why you scream? because 70% of all first time physical fitness activities people quit after 6 months tops, this is why fitness centers over book their memberships, this is why you can find lightly used fitness machines in garage sales and on Craigslist as well as bikes, and you'll join the ranks of having expensive garage art. If you're not physically active now I would spend no more than $500 for a bike and that includes accessories unless you have more money than God and 3K is just pocket change.
> 
> If you're doing some sort of physical activity now like running on a regular basis for more than a year then you should be good to go.


I agree with the first part.

I disagree with the second part. 

If you do a lot of MTB, then I'd say that a couple of long road tests, and you should be able to pick out your bike.

If you're completely new to biking, which is sounds like you are, then I'd suggest that you either buy a new bike for ~$1K or get a used bike in about that same price range. 

Why? Because you don't know what you're going to like in a bike, yet. Do you want to race crit and participate in TNW's? Are you in it more for the fitness, and you think it would be nice to do a century by this time next year? You'd like to do something in between? You'd like to do triathalons? 

Even if you are fit, your fitness on a bike will probably change between now and when you put 1,000 miles on the bike. Right now an endurance bike may feel like you're too low and stretched out, but in 6 months of riding, you may want to be lower on the bike. 

If you get a good Al allow bike with 105/Tiagra components, you'll be able to use it for 5 years. But if you decide that after riding for a while, that what you thought you would like when you first started, your fitness has changed what you like. Then you can always upgrade to the $3K bike. If you buy a used bike, then you can probably sell it for about what you paid for it, and you won't be out much if any money when you get that $3K bike. 

Try this. Go to a LBS that you haven't been to, yet, and ask to ride several different bikes in different price ranges with the same brand. AL, top-line AL, Intro Carbon, your $3K bike. Try to get the same components on all of them, probably either 105 or Ultegra. Make sure that the tires are all inflated to the same PSI. Ride all of them for 10-15 minutes each. Then tell the salesperson exactly what the differences are that you felt between the 3 bikes. If you can tell a lot between them, then get the one that feels best. If you can't tell the difference between the different categories, then get the least expensive one. 

So tell us more about your fitness level. What type of activities do you do right now? Jogging, Treadmill, MTB, etc.

Why do you want to get into biking? 

What kind of biking do you see yourself doing in 1 year?

Give you your height, inseam, weight, and location.

Once you give us all of these things, then it will be easier to recommend a bike for you. 

In the end, all we can give you is suggestions. You'll need to road test a good number of bikes to figure out which bike you want/need. We can just tell you whether the bike is a decent bike for the price or not, and some of us may disagree on that. 

GH


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

^^ After reading this I realize I was wrong in suggesting a 3k bike as your first bike even if you run a lot now, I agree with ColaJacket, since this is your first bike you may not like riding and end up again with expensive garage art and going back to jogging for example.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

froze said:


> ^^ After reading this I realize I was wrong in suggesting a 3k bike as your first bike even if you run a lot now, I agree with ColaJacket, since this is your first bike you may not like riding and end up again with expensive garage art and going back to jogging for example.


Well, a lot of my post was even if he does like road biking, what he chooses now, may be the wrong bike for where he is 1-2 years from now.

My PoV was that I wanted to get a bike for fitness and would last me for at least 2 years. I figured at that point, I would either be burned out and hate the bike, or I would be a lot more fit than I am now, and I would know what kind of bike would be nice to upgrade to. And I would know exactly why I wanted to upgrade, and what I wanted in an upgrade. 

I got a Fuji Sportif 1.3 C - 2014. I was on a bit of a budget, and this was stretching it. But the bike has Tiagra components which, from all reviews, are very good for a first bike, and should easily last me for 2 years. From the OP's budget, I'd probably suggest a 105 component set. He probably won't be able to tell much, if any, difference between the 105 and the Ultegra. If he can, then he can get a bike with the Ultegra group. Unless you're a racer, I really don't see a need to go to DA. 

The big thing is for him to road test bikes. Several bikes from a few different LBS's at different price points. Figure out which bikes he likes. And then buy one of the less expensive one of those. 

No matter how expensive the first bike is, if you stay in biking for a few years, you'll probably want a second bike. Sometimes it is just to upgrade. Other times it is because you realize that what you want in a bike after 1-2 years of biking isn't what you thought you wanted when you first started.

GH


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

If that's your bidget there are a lot of good bikes to choose from. go to several shops and do a lot of test rides, as long as they'll let you, and pick what feels good.

I am curious how you settled on that figure.


> I just want to get one bike and then used it at least for 5 years that's why i'm willing to spend 3k


. 
Is there some reason you think you have to spend that much to get a bike that will last that long, or are you trying to avoid having your ability outgrow the bike so you're not pressured to replace it. The problem with the latter, as others have said, is that without experience you don't know what you may like in the future, and your needs and wants will change as you develop. You could get $10,000 bike and "outgrow" it in a few years, because it doesn't suit the riding style you develop.

And if the concern is that you have to spend that much to get a bike that will last, that's erroneous. Bikes don't really wear out fast if taken care of. I have a bike that const considerably less than half of your budget. I've replaced parts that have worn out, and upgraded a few things, but the "newest" major bits are more than 10 years old, and the frame is 20 years old. It still rides well.

Go test-ride, get a bike, and ride the hell out of it. Have fun.


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

ColaJacket said:


> No matter how expensive the first bike is, if you stay in biking for a few years, you'll probably want a second bike. Sometimes it is just to upgrade. Other times it is because you realize that what you want in a bike after 1-2 years of biking isn't what you thought you wanted when you first started.
> 
> GH


This is spot on!! I can say for myself being in year 2 of cycling after being out of the sport for 25 years I bought that first bike and it served me well but as I progressed I found my needs changed.. Now that old bike gets some use on rainy days but I ended up getting No 2 a few months back after I realized it was time to get a Mountain Goat road bike with the right gearing, drive train and frame setup.

If it was me just starting out with that budget I find a nice bike for around 1,500 take the rest and get a garmin or magellan, two or three nice Orbea Bibs, some cycling shirts, winter gear if needed, a good helmet, bottle cages, leynze pump, bike work stand and some tools to get started. I'm sure most of what I mention would chew up the balance of the budget.

Brands I would recommend and that I have had over time in the past and now..
Felt (great bikes, maybe a small premium in cost but solid)
Fuji (got some nice stuff these days at that price point)
Orbea (always been a fan)

All the other standard brands are also good. Just never been a fan of the mass Specialized bikes (the way I see it). I know when I got my latest Felt I had that and the Specialized side by side and the pricing for the felt was much less, weighed less and came with a better drive train. So in closing be sure you spend your cash wisely and the way that would make you happy but wisdom tells us all to hear others then take a ways what you can from their experiences and then apply them to your situations. Have fun, lets all know what you end up doing or not doing..


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## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

Thanks guys there are lots of useful comments here I have been playing badminton every week on a regular basis (for don't know how long already) but personally I think i am not fit enough to be a biker yet. The main reason I want to get a more expensive bike is because I want to get into competitive biking once I have the skills required. I did sense a difference between a roubaix and a tarmac and I did look into CAAD 10 as well. As for location wise I live in Vancouver where there are small hills all over the place (hence aero bikes sales here are lower). One thing to point out is that I'm pretty sure I'm going to like the sport hence that's why I'm willing to spend that much on the first bike. I think you guys made a good argument to get a cheaper bike. On a side note what shoes and cleats should I get? Thanks!


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

allanko513 said:


> ...been playing badminton every week... i am not fit enough to be a biker yet. The main reason I want to get a more expensive bike is because I want to get into competitive biking once I have the skills required.


yeah, badminton isn't really a killer aerobic sport. I can keep up a mean volley and not spill any of my martini...

competitive cycling, huh...? if you're going to do crits, you really don't want to learn how to crash and burn on a nice bike.

you have a lot to learn, laddie...


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## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

Oxtox said:


> yeah, badminton isn't really a killer aerobic sport. I can keep up a mean volley and not spill any of my martini...
> 
> competitive cycling, huh...? if you're going to do crits, you really don't want to learn how to crash and burn on a nice bike.
> 
> you have a lot to learn, laddie...


Learning to walk...


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

ColaJacket said:


> Well, a lot of my post was even if he does like road biking, what he chooses now, may be the wrong bike for where he is 1-2 years from now.
> 
> No matter how expensive the first bike is, if you stay in biking for a few years, you'll probably want a second bike. Sometimes it is just to upgrade. Other times it is because you realize that what you want in a bike after 1-2 years of biking isn't what you thought you wanted when you first started.GH


I think these are the two most important points -- After you ride for a while, you're concept of comfort will probably change. A more upright bike is comfortable for beginners. After you ride for a while, you'll want something less upright. And if you do get hooked, you'll be panting after some bike in a year or two. Blow the big bucks then. Keep the old bike as a back up, or to commute on, etc.


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## SPlKE (Sep 10, 2007)

Buy the nicest $3000 54 cm bike you can find.

Shoot me a PM when you're ready to sell it.


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

Oxtox said:


> yeah, badminton isn't really a killer aerobic sport. I can keep up a mean volley and not spill any of my martini...
> 
> competitive cycling, huh...? if you're going to do crits, *you really don't want to learn how to crash and burn on a nice bike*.
> 
> you have a lot to learn, laddie...


Actually, competitive badminton can be aerobic. 

For Fuji's, this Roubaix would probably be a good intro bike. It's got a Ultegra/105 mix. I'm sure Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, Raleigh, etc. have similar bikes. 

If you really want a CF bike, then a Fuji SST would probably be close to what you want. 

If you're really wanting to race crits, then you're probably going to want a nice set of wheels, and for almost all bikes, that would mean buying them after you buy your bike. Use the wheels that came with your bike for training, and use the really expensive, light wheels for races. 

But you probably want to get up to B/B+ group rides before worrying about crits. 

Check out the thread in the General Cycling forum about TNW's. 

GH


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## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

SPlKE said:


> Buy the nicest $3000 54 cm bike you can find.
> 
> Shoot me a PM when you're ready to sell it.


are u trolling me....lol


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## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

ColaJacket said:


> Actually, competitive badminton can be aerobic.
> 
> For Fuji's, this Roubaix would probably be a good intro bike. It's got a Ultegra/105 mix. I'm sure Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, Giant, Raleigh, etc. have similar bikes.
> 
> ...


i actually do do competitive badminton but i still think biking is more tiring...I will look into the bikes u suggested


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## nick779 (Apr 25, 2015)

Even if I had the money to burn, which I did at the time I wasnt willing to go over $1000 for my first bike. (Not gonna lie though, I really wish I could have afforded a 105 Allez)

That being said, all frames are not created equal, and not all LBS are created equal. 

A Sportif rides differently than a Synapse, a Roubaix rides differently than an Allez.

After going through 5 LBS, test riding 10+ bikes, returning 2 bikes, dealing with crappy LBS, I finally have exactly what I want. (Within my budget as a newbie) Im kicking myself for not just getting what I wanted in the first place and trying to go the "cheap" route from a LBS that I didnt really like.


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## allanko513 (Jun 10, 2015)

pmf said:


> I think these are the two most important points -- After you ride for a while, you're concept of comfort will probably change. A more upright bike is comfortable for beginners. After you ride for a while, you'll want something less upright. And if you do get hooked, you'll be panting after some bike in a year or two. Blow the big bucks then. Keep the old bike as a back up, or to commute on, etc.


thats actually my concern to thats why my thought is leaning towards getting road bike over aero bike


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## SPlKE (Sep 10, 2007)

allanko513 said:


> are u trolling me....lol


Heh. Guilty.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Oxtox said:


> yeah, badminton isn't really a killer aerobic sport. I can keep up a mean volley and not spill any of my martini...
> 
> competitive cycling, huh...? if you're going to do crits, you really don't want to learn how to crash and burn on a nice bike.
> 
> you have a lot to learn, laddie...


Exactly, some of us have raced before and have seen from either first hand or second hand experience what kind of crashes can and do happen in races, especially bad crashes are done in Cat 3 and lower because people are inexperienced at holding their line and reading other riders intentions, but Cat 4 are especially crash happy races, followed by Cat 3. The best place to be is in the top 10 spots or the last 10 spots but not in the middle. I got lucky, and I mean lucky, and never had a crash in a race. But most people will crash and having a $3,000 bike get destroyed is going to hurt your pocket and perhaps your willingness to continue the sport. If I were you I would get a used decent quality aluminum bike, aluminum frames are cheap to buy, their light and very stiff which is what you'll need for racing, you should be able to find a nice used Cannondale for $800 that sold originally for $2500 or more.

BUt you need to do what you need to do, if you're dead set on a first time hobby, first time bike, first time racing attempt, and doing it on a 3K bike then go ahead. We're just expressing our opinions and experiences.


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## kevra83 (Oct 22, 2013)

First thing I would look at, is whether you'd feel more of a person that wants to push the speed faster, climb easier, or just go out more for the mileage. I mean all the bikes you listed above are all pretty much in performance stand point, other than the Roubaix. I mean the R2 or R3 is going to have a similar geometry to the Tarmac, IMO. The Cervelo S3, S5 and Giant Propel would be closer to like your Specialized Venge. I mean don't get me wrong, if you were just test riding a Tarmac sport with 105's then I can understand that feeling a little sluggish. Especially when it only has it's Fact 9r frame vs the Expert model with 10r frame which will feel quite a bit lighter and stiffer. 

What I'd do if I were you if you were in low low $2,000-$3,000 range, is go with an aluminum frame with carbon fork with good components like Shimano 105 or Ultegra then upgrade the frameset in a year or two. That way, you won't have to drop $2,500-$3,000 right now and get yourself stuck in it, then have to settle with trying to sell it and get another bike.

I hope this helps a bit...


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

1.) Think about your cycling intentions. What kind of riding do you want to do? Race? Century rides? That will help you determine if you want more of a race geometry or something more relaxed. What kind of road will you be riding? Smooth, rough, some gravel?

2.) Do research. What model bikes are marketed toward your goals? Learn a bit about bike geometry and how differing geometry affects the ride. Checkout some on line fit calculators to see how to measure yourself and then determine roughly what size top tube you will need (different from advertised frame size, thus you will need to check out the bikes geometry chart). For most people effective top tube length is the most important dimension in a bike size.

3.) Search for a good used bike in your price range that is close to your calculated size. (I prefer to error on the large size, but that is debatable). Remember to save enough money for shoes, saddle bag with accessories, cloths and etc.

4.) Once you have your used bike, pedals and shoes go get fit on it. It may cost $150, but will be well worth it. You may end up spending $ on parts to make it fit better, be prepared.

5.) Ride it. If after a season you find you do not like it you can sell your used bike as a used bike and not be out much money. You will then have a better idea of what you really want.

BTW, buying used can get you a nicely upgraded bike for the money. I have had 3 bikes which all retailed in the $5-$7k range and have not paid over $3k for any of them. Last September I purchased a 2014 Domane with a legit 300 miles on it for 45% of retail.


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## DaveLeeNC (Jan 12, 2011)

Back in the mid 1990's I was a former serious runner (mid 50's at that time) who was trying to get back into shape (had gained 40 pounds) by a return to running. I was on my third 'exercise on an indoor bike at the sports club' stretch recovering from various running related injuries. So I thought SCREW IT - let's get a bike. 

So in 1996 I went into a LBS (the ONLY research that I had done was find a guy that a local biker told me could be trusted) with (I don't recall exactly) something like $1300 to spend. I was completely clueless regarding road bikes. I ended up with a Bianchi EL-OS steel frame and Campy Chorus (12-15/39/53) groupset bicycle.

Fast forward to 2015 and I am still riding that bike (after some newer wheels and groupset upgrade). Probably just pure luck, but it seemed to have worked for me. I am so glad that I never sold it as it did spend a fair amount of time 'ageing gracefully in the attic.'

dave


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## Shuffleman (Sep 4, 2013)

allanko513 said:


> Thanks guys there are lots of useful comments here I have been playing badminton every week on a regular basis (for don't know how long already) but personally I think i am not fit enough to be a biker yet. The main reason I want to get a more expensive bike is because I want to get into competitive biking once I have the skills required. I did sense a difference between a roubaix and a tarmac and I did look into CAAD 10 as well. As for location wise I live in Vancouver where there are small hills all over the place (hence aero bikes sales here are lower). One thing to point out is that I'm pretty sure I'm going to like the sport hence that's why I'm willing to spend that much on the first bike. I think you guys made a good argument to get a cheaper bike. On a side note what shoes and cleats should I get? Thanks!


Allanko..you have gotten some solid advice here. It is your money and your choice how to spend it. The reality is that you will not be held back by a $1k bike. You won't need more bike. Buy a sub $1k bike for your first bike. Learn if you like the sport. If you do in two years you will probably buy a new bike anyway. At that point, you will know what type of bike you actually want. I struggled with this same advice and budget when I first started. In the end I bought a new felt z95 for $900. I am primarily a runner fighting a hip injury. I was told I needed a relaxed geo bike so that's what I got. After a few years I realized it was not the style I wanted. Thus I sold it for $650 and bought exactly what I wanted and knew I liked. If I had spent the original full budget on a higher end Felt, I would have been stuck with it.
on a side note, nobody goes into a sport thinking that they won't love it. It happens all the time though. Craig's list is a testament to that theory. You probably will like the sport but be realistic with the first bike. Use that bike to figure out what style rider you are.
either way you go good luck. Don't forget to use these forums as there are many people with good advice.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

I can make this pretty simple for you my man. Just get an entry level road bike that you like with Shimano 105 or Sram Rival. Save the rest of your cash to upgrade once you KNOW what kind of ride you want (geometry, brand, weight, etc.). You are going to develop preferences for lots of things from handlebars, to wheels, to saddles, etc. Save your extra dough for when those preferences become apparent. Starting with a good alloy bike makes a lot of sense and it is what many of us did (me included-Felt F85). You could get a number of really nice bikes in the $700-$1500 that will last you the first year or two and be more than enough. If you have your heart set on a carbon bike the first time out, you really shouldn't spend more than $2000 unless you just want to. I personally think something like the Trek Emonda ALR (which is getting a lot of positive reviews), Specialized Allez Smartweld, Cannondale Synapse Alloy, Caad10, etc. would be a really good fit for you now if any of them works for your body type. FWIW though, here's a few examples, but like others have said, finding the right fit for your body and current riding style/interests is the real key and you should let a knowledgeable shop help you with that. The key for you is to get out riding and gain experience, not to find your dream bike, because without riding more you really wouldn't even recognize it if you saw it in my opinion. I wish you well.

As far as shoes and cleats go, any solid brand will do. I happen to like Giro gear, others probably prefer something else.

Émonda ALR 5 - Trek Bicycle

Synapse 105 5 Disc - SYNAPSE - ENDURANCE ROAD - ROAD - BIKES - 2015

Defy 1 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States

Defy Advanced 2 (2015) | Giant Bicycles | United States

Specialized Bicycle Components

Specialized Bicycle Components

Specialized Bicycle Components

Domane 4.1 - Trek Bicycle


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7J4-G2QxX8

Trek Emonda ALR - first ride


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

CAAD 8 is a great entry level bike. Less aggressive geo than the CAAD 10 but not relaxed... A 56 is a 17cm head tube for example. Aluminum with CF fork. You can get the group set you want, 105 or Tiagra are fine. Mine is Sora and it's just fine. It's affordable and a smart design IMO for someone considering racing... Not upright but not going to test your flexibility right off the bat. Good looking too IMO. Crisp. But there are a lot of very, very good bikes, that's just the one I ended up with and it's great.


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## GlobalGuy (Jun 9, 2015)

There's lots of great advice and recommendations in this thread about bike choices and other issues consider. Let me add or expand on one theme: Budget for the bike!

It's sort of important if that 3k is: (1) An all you can afford type budget or, (2) do you have plenty of cash flow and that's simply the budget you allocated to spend on your first bike.

It makes a big difference because if you end up getting serious and into biking both the need to have plus like to have items that accompany biking can easily become a significant additional monetary investment and be ongoing too!

After the bike:

Riding clothes and accompanying gear for the bike and in support of the bike can be a good chunk of change. (You would be surprised.) Where you live in terms of year round weather plays a major factor in those categories. 

You may outgrow the 3k bike you bought for any of a variety of reasons and the next bike you want could easily be more than that 3k. 

Depending upon the type of budge that 3k represents you might be best off buying a low price starter bike to try out to see how much you like it and how much you find that you want to get into the sport and potentially lifelong participation in riding. 

One thing for sure though, you can buy a fine quality bike, pedals, and shoes for 3k if that's what you want to spend for sure.


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

Get an entry-level road bike and put the money in a certificate, or whatever. Wait for the 3 thousand dollar road bike for at least 3 years, that way, you will have some handling skills and have some clue what you want.

Bikes in that range actually require a certain amount of experience and skill, unless you spend a laughable amount of money on a beefed up randoneer.


Recommend CAAD8 or Giant Defy. Definitely 105 components.


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## aureliajulia (May 25, 2009)

DaveLeeNC said:


> Back in the mid 1990's I was a former serious runner (mid 50's at that time) who was trying to get back into shape (had gained 40 pounds) by a return to running. I was on my third 'exercise on an indoor bike at the sports club' stretch recovering from various running related injuries. So I thought SCREW IT - let's get a bike.
> 
> So in 1996 I went into a LBS (the ONLY research that I had done was find a guy that a local biker told me could be trusted) with (I don't recall exactly) something like $1300 to spend. I was completely clueless regarding road bikes. I ended up with a Bianchi EL-OS steel frame and Campy Chorus (12-15/39/53) groupset bicycle.
> 
> ...


Beautiful! 

But that won't happen today. Of course, you know that.

How much would that ride be now? 6 grand? Guess it depends on the steel alloy and lugs.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

I came across this last night. It's hard to classify this as anything but a really good deal should it fit your interests and body:

Fuji Transonic 2.8 Road Bike- 2015 - Performance Exclusive


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

OP - 
You've gotten some pretty good advice and, well, some advice. 

There's no perfect bike for you at this point. And, while it's great that you are very eager to jump into the sport with the goal of being a competitive cyclist, cycling can have a very expensive learning curve and you're potentially about to make some pretty expensive mistakes.

Take that $3,000 and put $2700 of it in savings. Go find a good, cheap road bike in your size for sale on Craigslist or if your LBS has used bikes, hit them up. At a minimum, if you buy a used one on CL, take it and a 6 pack to your local bike shop and tell them that you're really interested in getting into cycling and would like to forge a relationship with an LBS as you get started.

Then, ride the crap out of that road bike for 1 season. Start with a 10 mile ride. Do a few of them, then jump to a 25 mile, a 40, a 50, 65, then 100. Try to go faster each time. Try to find hills that p*ss you off and ride them until your grimace becomes a smile.

Now, go back to the LBS with your $2750 and tell them you're ready for a real bike now and have them help you out. By that point, you'll have a much better idea as to what you want, what you're currently missing on your bike, and what to do with the new (wicked awesome) road bike. 

At that point, you may have also decided that you prefer TTs or Tris, or CX, or MTB, or, if you still dig the life of a road cyclist, you'll know for sure. You'll also probably know by then if you're better at hills or better at all-out speed (light weight bike vs. aero bike), etc.

In the meantime, find a group. Ride. Ride some more. Ride just a wee bit more after that and then go compete. Find a Tuesday Night Worlds or the local crit/road race series. Get the crap beat out of you by a 14 year old and then go practice some more. 

I commend you for your enthusiasm and for your desire to seek and respond to knowledge. Ride on!


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## bigjohnla (Mar 29, 2010)

I recommend that you buy a $1000 aluminum bike that is the correct size and start riding. Find a local bike club or group and ride as many group rides as you can. Ride a few charity events. Look at the other folks bikes and ask questions. Cyclists are proud of their bikes and love to talk about them. Pretty soon you have the lingo down pat. You will also have made all the rookie mistakes like failing to unclip and dumping your bike, forgetting your gloves at home, forgotten to pump up the tires. Bonked a time or two. If you still like it after 6 months or so, you will probably stick with it. An upgrade might be in orders.


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## SlippedChain (Nov 4, 2013)

jeepsouth said:


> I would buy the Cannondale CAAD 10 with Ultegra /QUOTE]
> 
> As someone who did this ^^^ back in 2012, I approve this message.
> 
> Great bikes.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I don't think physical you would outgrow a $3,000 bike unless you become a cat 2 or better racer and by then you'll have sponsors throwing $8,000 plus bikes at you! The only reason a person gets a more expensive bike is because they have money to burn. when I lived in California I knew lots of cat 3 racers that ran on 105 components. And spending above $3,500 doesn't really give you that much gain for the dollar you spend. Bikes like the Specialized Tarmac Comp with Ultegra gear is $3,000 MSRP, is a person going to gain 100% better performance or better durability going to a $6,000 bike? No, not even remotely close, they might gain 10% if they're lucky! And high end gears with titanium cogs in their cassettes have about a third of the life expectancy of steel but cost 8 times more then steel cassettes. 

We're all yappin this stuff but the OP is no where near all of this mumbo jumbo.

Disclaimer, of course this is just my opinion.


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

froze said:


> I don't think physical you would outgrow a $3,000 bike unless you become a cat 2 or better racer and by then you'll have sponsors throwing $8,000 plus bikes at you!


I race with a lot of 1s and 2s. Never seen one riding on a bike they didn't pay for...




froze said:


> And spending above $3,500 doesn't really give you that much gain for the dollar you spend. Bikes like the Specialized Tarmac Comp with Ultegra gear is $3,000 MSRP, is a person going to gain 100% better performance or better durability going to a $6,000 bike?


Totally agree. As in the world of "high-end" anything, marginal gains are had at increasing (near exponential) costs. High end audio - a $100,000 phono preamp will only sound minutely better than a $1,000 one. 

Also agreed that I see tons of great local racers riding on "lower end" bikes. I raced against a guy last night on a 1980s steel Bianchi. He had 20 year old Mavic wheels on it and 20 year old gearing. He still managed to finish with the pack just fine. Of course, I saw a guy on a $10,000 Boardman get spit out on the second lap. It ain't the bike.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Corenfa said:


> I race with a lot of 1s and 2s. Never seen one riding on a bike they didn't pay for...
> 
> 
> 
> .


Things must have changed since I raced, I knew lots of people racing in cat 2's and the teams got bicycles from bike manufacture sponsors for free which the riders would sell at the end of the season to make some extra money. And I know this was happening up until the early 2000's.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Corenfa said:


> Also agreed that I see tons of great local racers riding on "lower end" bikes. I raced against a guy last night on a 1980s steel Bianchi. He had 20 year old Mavic wheels on it and 20 year old gearing. He still managed to finish with the pack just fine. Of course, I saw a guy on a $10,000 Boardman get spit out on the second lap. *It ain't the bike*.


Man, I get yelled down everytime I try to explain this around here (especially in the manufacturer forums). I love the technological side of cycling as much as anyone, but it's not going to make a difference in winning and losing on any given ride, your fitness and skills are. Put Mark Cavendish on this Trek 1.1 and any of us on a high end Pinarello or Colnago or Specialized, etc. and he is still going to beat any of us 10 out of 10 times climbing or sprinting.


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

Rashadabd said:


> Put Mark Cavendish on this Trek 1.1 and any of us on a high end Pinarello or Colnago or Specialized, etc. and he is still going to beat any of us 10 out of 10 times climbing or sprinting.


I'd like to think I could hold my own against the Cav on a long climb, but that's because he's not a climber. In a sprint...well, as soon as he made his move, I'd just sit up, coast, and watch the magic.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Corenfa said:


> I'd like to think I could hold my own against the Cav on a long climb, but that's because he's not a climber. In a sprint...well, as soon as he made his move, I'd just sit up, coast, and watch the magic.


I don't know anything about you, but my guess is you are wrong. He's not a climber when compared to the best climbers in the world, but he's a pro and he would pretty much smoke us mere mortals. These guys ride tons of miles every day and a lot of that time is spent climbing so that he can complete some of the most difficult climbs in the world within the time limit.


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

Rashadabd said:


> I don't know anything about you, but my guess is you are wrong. He's not a climber when compared to the best climbers in the world, he's a pro and he would pretty much smoke us mere mortals. These guys ride tons of miles every day and a lot of that time is spent climbing so that he can complete some of the most difficult climbs in the world within the time limit.


That's fair. But bear in mind, with rare exception, on hills the pro sprinters are stuck out the back. That's why they take stage wins (on flat days) but finish very low in the final standings. Also, I didn't say I'd beat him, just hold my own. ;-)


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Rashadabd said:


> I don't know anything about you, but my guess is you are wrong. He's not a climber when compared to the best climbers in the world, he's a pro and he would pretty much smoke us mere mortals. These guys ride tons of miles every day and a lot of that time is spent climbing so that he can complete some of the most difficult climbs in the world within the time limit.


^^^^ this. I have speed skated for a coach that was a pro for years. Of course he eased up to keep pace-lines together, but he was a freak when he took off. At 50 he could do the Northshore Marathon in 1:12 which would get him close to the podium in his age group. A great time for a atrong skater is sub 1:30. The elite skaters that get the overall podium, like Joey Mantia, just break the hour... Elite athletes are different... I'd love to see his numbers when he climbs but I can't believe anyone that isn't making a living/or damn near making a living, riding a bike can keep up.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Corenfa said:


> That's fair. But bear in mind, with rare exception, on hills the pro sprinters are stuck out the back. That's why they take stage wins (on flat days) but finish very low in the final standings. Also, I didn't say I'd beat him, just hold my own. ;-)


Lol, it's the pace of the pro peloton and world class climbers that spits them out the back. They are all good climbers and when compared to the average cyclist, they are all great climbers. If you want to see how good amateurs perform on similar climbs, check out Col Collective, Etape Tour, Haute Route footage, or YouTube episodes of the Euro show that let a fit amateur ride with a pro and a legend for a day. Our times and fitness doesn't come close to theirs when it counts.


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## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Rashadabd said:


> Lol, it's the pace of the pro peloton and world class climbers that spits them out the back. They are all good climbers and when compared to the average cyclist, they are all great climbers. If you want to see how good amateurs perform on similar climbs, check out Col Collective, Etape Tour, Haute Route footage, or YouTube episodes of the Euro show that let a fit amateur ride with a pro and a legend for a day. Our times and fitness doesn't come close to theirs when it counts.


Here is one episode:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V09JACoFohU


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

Rashadabd said:


> Here is one episode:
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V09JACoFohU


Yeah - those are cool shows. Highly enjoyable and puts a lot of perspective.
Before it spirals out and it looks like I'm saying I could take Cav, I'm not delusional and in no way would indicate that I could. But...Cav ain't a climber. When he does Ventoux, he's nowhere near Froome's time. Again - not saying I could take him. I'm just saying, if I had to do Ventoux against my choice of riders - Froome or Cav, I'd choose Cav and would lose a LOT less time in that matchup.

Now...sadly back to reality.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

PBL450 said:


> ^^^^ this. I have speed skated for a coach that was a pro for years. Of course he eased up to keep pace-lines together, but he was a freak when he took off. At 50 he could do the Northshore Marathon in 1:12 which would get him close to the podium in his age group. A great time for a atrong skater is sub 1:30. The elite skaters that get the overall podium, like Joey Mantia, just break the hour... Elite athletes are different... I'd love to see his numbers when he climbs but I can't believe anyone that isn't making a living/or damn near making a living, riding a bike can keep up.


I use to know guys, including me, that were cat 3 riders and went up against pro riders in exhibition rides, and when they got it on they were gone while we choked on their body odor fumes. Same was true with a friend of mine who was a high stakes tennis gambler/player/trainer who had to move from city to city (big cities) after beating all the players and no one would play him. He got a chance to play an exhibition game against John McEnroe and John kept serving ace after ace, and only once did my friend manage to return a shot but John hit it back in such a way my friend couldn't get it. Pro athletes in any sport are way beyond the rest of the public, that's why very few make into pro sports, in this case pro cycling.


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