# Steam Cleaning Bicycle Chain



## RPS13 (Mar 31, 2006)

I have searched all over the internet about this topic, but I can't find the answer.

Has anyone tried this instead of using chemicals on their chains? I have a steam cleaner and I use it on fine metal work and it gets them really clean. 

Are there any detrimental effects on a bicycle's chain?


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## PigmyRacer (Oct 3, 2007)

Sounds like a lot of work.


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## dead flag blues (Aug 26, 2004)

I wouldn't let any of my bikes anywhere near a steam cleaner. It will nuke all of the lube in the pins of the chain, which will be pretty tough to replace, no?

If i WERE to use a steam cleaner to clean a chain, this is how i would do it:

a) Use chain tool to push pin out of chain.
b) Throw chain on driveway, attack it with steam cleaner.
c) Hang chain on clothes hanger in front of torpoedo heater to help force out water (hurry, rust is already beginning to form!). 
d) Place All-Clad saucepan on stove, fill with chain lube of your choice. Heat to approximately 150F (or as recommended by chain lube mfgr).
e) Put chain into above saucepan for approximately 20 minutes. This SHOULD force out a lot of the remaining water.
f) Remove chain from saucepan, hang on clothesline to allow excess lube to drip out.
g) Find Campy replacement link-thing and put it all back together.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

it would certainly clean it, but wouldn't it remove the lube from between the bushings?


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## Dave_Stohler (Jan 22, 2004)

RPS13 said:


> Are there any detrimental effects on a bicycle's chain?


You mean OTHER than rust????


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*thoughts...*

I see no problem at all with this idea, other than it's probably overkill.

Contrary to other's postings, the idea behind cleaning is to remove all of the dirt contaminated lube from the rollers and pins. The idea that old lube should be retained is dead wrong.

I use an old water bottle, partially filed with mineral spirits to degrease the chain. Drop the the chain in and shake for a minute or so. I then pour the mineral spirits into another old water bottle for resue. The dirt will settle to the bottom of the storage bottle. When it comes time for another cleaning, carefully pour clean solvent into the cleaning bottle and stop pouring before the dirt is disturbed.

Next, I put a strong solution of dishwashing soap and hot water in my cleaning bottle and shake for another minute. I then rinse the chain in hot water. The last step to prevent rust is to either apply WD-40 or homebrew lube to the chain.


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## coonass (Feb 4, 2004)

A few years ago, I found a re-conditioned, small commercial, (basket size 4"x4"x4") ultrasonic cleaner on line...talk about nice!!! 15 minutes for the cogs and they look absolutely brand new ; 15 minutes for the chain and it comes out brand new....of course there's no shine, but couldn't be cleaner!.....I'd recommend that over all the other methods I've used in the last 26 years.


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## PigmyRacer (Oct 3, 2007)

Is an ultrasonic cleaner similar to what a jewel would use for old/dirty/antique jewelry? It sounds similar. Great idea by the way.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*No need*



RPS13 said:


> Has anyone tried this instead of using chemicals on their chains? I have a steam cleaner and I use it on fine metal work and it gets them really clean.
> 
> Are there any detrimental effects on a bicycle's chain?


There's really no need to do this, though it obviously would work.

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back. 
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


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## benchpress265 (Nov 7, 2006)

Would not do it, steam will condense back to water. The force of the steam would probably leave water droplets on the bearing surfaces of the chain links, water and oil will make an emulsion. The emulsion will not have the same lubricity as oil. Hence you will probably wear out your chain faster.


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## dead flag blues (Aug 26, 2004)

This reminds me to use Kerry's recipe for ProLink. I've got a few extra quarts of Motul motorcycle oil in the garage that i need to get rid of..


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## FlynRide (Feb 26, 2005)

An additional method I would suggest during the initial cleaning steps (if you have access to one) is to use an air-compressor to blow out the old gunk. It really does a great job of getting in the small nooks-n-crannies of the chain.


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## Ape0r (Oct 2, 2007)

Look, if you really want that chain clean, this is the only way, and its no more overkill than using a steam cleaner:

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Flame on!


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## dead flag blues (Aug 26, 2004)

This must be a joke, there's no Campy kit..



Ape0r said:


> Look, if you really want that chain clean, this is the only way, and its no more overkill than using a steam cleaner:
> 
> http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
> 
> Flame on!


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## RPS13 (Mar 31, 2006)

Thanks for all of your opinions, I appreciate it. From what it looks like, I guess I won't be using this method of cleaning my chain.


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## quattrotom (Jul 15, 2006)

Kerry - 
Using your protocol, how often do you replace your chain, cassette and chainrings?
Any particularly reason for the forward motion beyond the obvious fact that you shift the gears?

Thanks.





Kerry Irons said:


> There's really no need to do this, though it obviously would work.
> 
> Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:
> 
> ...


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

RPS13 said:


> Thanks for all of your opinions, I appreciate it. From what it looks like, I guess I won't be using this method of cleaning my chain.


Go for it! What's the absolute WORST thing that'll happen?

You'll hafta replace said chain and (possibly) cassette? How much is that in the greater scheme of things?

I know I've gone to the hi pressure car washes and sprayed the snot outta my chaings with the hot, soapy water on the way home from really nasty rides. Don't seem to really affect anything IF you relube when you get home/dry. Put the chain in the middle of the cassette and spray so that the gears freewheel backwards. DO NOT point the high pressure water at bearings unless yer willing to tear em apart and re-lube em.

M


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Chain life*



quattrotom said:


> Kerry -
> Using your protocol, how often do you replace your chain, cassette and chainrings?
> Any particularly reason for the forward motion beyond the obvious fact that you shift the gears?


My (Campy) chains typically last 8-11K miles, two chains per cassette. Large (Record) chainring replaced at 65K miles. Small chainring in use for over 90K miles, but nearly all of my riding is in the big ring (it's flat here). My wife, who weighs 120 lb, gets something like 15K miles per (Campy) chain.


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## PigmyRacer (Oct 3, 2007)

I would think that you run the risk of doing damage to bearings/seals by spraying anywhere near your wheels with high pressure water. You are right though, you can't do that much damage, not that I would try it anyway just for kicks.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I don't mess with cleaning my chain at all. I rotate 2 chains. When one gets dirty, I just remove it, take it to the dry cleaners, and use the 2nd one while I'm waiting for the light starch to be applied. I don't like heavy starch, because it makes the chain skip when it's in the smallest cogs.


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## breadrunner (Jan 22, 2004)

*Less expensive*

I also rotate two chains, but I simply wrap the dirty chain around the horn of my Fizik and let my natural pedaling action do the cleaning and polishing.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

breadrunner said:


> I also rotate two chains, but I simply wrap the dirty chain around the horn of my Fizik and let my natural pedaling action do the cleaning and polishing.


JEEZ!! How come I never think of simple solutions like this?


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

ok...I am a jeweler by trade....and I have an old ultrasonic I use exclusively for bike parts. I use mineral spirits, not soap and water MOST of the time. I have, on many occasions, however, used simple green in it instead. I also use a steam cleaner at times. There is absolutely NO issue with rust as the steam raises the temp of the chain to over 200 degrees F which dries almost immediately.I Iube immediately with homebrew. I have never seen a spot of rust on a chain and get 6000 + miles on them easily. And trust me, a 30x stereo scope is a fair way to inspect for problems.

BUT most of the time I just use a liberal dose of homebrew which effectively washes most of the grit out and re-lubes in one step.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

Any recommendations for an ultrasonic cleaner? I am looking at a Crest model that would fit my chain, chainrings, Campy UT BB cups, and almost any other bike part in it. I am so sick of spending time cleaning these components. I spent an hour on these components last night for one of my race bikes, and I just got the other bike completely filthy riding through melting runoff. At this rate, I'll be spending 20+ hours cleaning my drivetrain each year. It would be cheaper for me to buy new drivetrain components every year and spend my time working.

If you use mineral spirits in the ultrasonic cleaner, do you remove them once you finish cleaning? Wouldn't they evaporate if they were left in the tank for a long time?


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Here's what you need. 

1.Mix up a 12-16 oz batch of home brew & put it in an empty windex, or similar, bottle. 

2. Put the bike on a work stand, & spread a plastic garbage bag beneath it. 

3. As you rotate the ranks with one hand, spray the chain, cogs, pulleys, chainrings, and yes, even both derailleurs with the home brew. They should be dripping. 

4. Then wipe everything off, leaving the chain for last. Wipe the chain thoroughly. 

5. You're done.

Not counting step 1, if this takes you longer than approx. 10 min., I would assume that you're handicapped in some way.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

fabsroman said:


> Any recommendations for an ultrasonic cleaner? I am looking at a Crest model that would fit my chain, chainrings, Campy UT BB cups, and almost any other bike part in it. I am so sick of spending time cleaning these components. I spent an hour on these components last night for one of my race bikes, and I just got the other bike completely filthy riding through melting runoff. At this rate, I'll be spending 20+ hours cleaning my drivetrain each year. It would be cheaper for me to buy new drivetrain components every year and spend my time working.
> 
> If you use mineral spirits in the ultrasonic cleaner, do you remove them once you finish cleaning? Wouldn't they evaporate if they were left in the tank for a long time?



Yes, empty and seal in jar for it to settle afterwards...How much are you inrterested in spending L&R is the best ultrasonic, A 2 qt. would be all you needed (chainrings would not fit) I have two 3 quart and a 2 quart. Harbor freight has some pretty reasonable, not sure if they are any good though. I use 2 of mine for work, I don't know anything about Crest.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91957

a big issue is the way the transducer is bonded to the tank...a lot of them use epoxy and it softens as it heats and does not transfer ultra sonic waves well.

Elma are good too.

You do not really need a heater or for that matter even want it for mineral spirits.


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

I've tried that, and it is messy as can be. Plus, it does take me more than 10 minutes because I like to have my drivetrain sparkling by the time I'm done. Instead of using a large trash bag, I use an aluminum pan/sheet that I normally put underneath the oil pan when I do oil changes on my car. It is probably 2 1/2 x 4 feet and it does a good job of catching all the crap.

Honestly, I would much rather just take off the chain, freewheel, and chainrings and drop them in a ultrasonic cleaner than stand there for 10 minutes messing with my chain.

Plus, with the recommendation that this be done every 300 miles, I'll be doing it every week or every other week during the peak of the season. No thanks on that one.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

listen I was just thinking, I would NOT put anything with sealed bearings into the ultrasonic (bb or hubs etc.)

btw, after 10 minutes in a good ultrasonic the chain would be cleaner than it was before they lubed it for shipping.

and I use mine on the rear der at least once a year


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## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

The Campy UT BB cups don't have the bearings in them. The bearings are attached to the crank arms through pressure, so they definitely wouldn't be going into the ultrasonic. Problem is that dirt and grime accumulate all over those BB cups and find a way into the bearings from there. I destroyed one set of bearings with only 2,500 miles on them because dirt got into them.

For the most part, I would only be using it for the chain, chainrings, and cassettes because they are the biggest PITA for me to get really clean.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

they are great for a cassette...no doubt about that


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

fabsroman said:


> I've tried that, and it is messy as can be. Plus, it does take me more than 10 minutes because I like to have my drivetrain sparkling by the time I'm done. Instead of using a large trash bag, I use an aluminum pan/sheet that I normally put underneath the oil pan when I do oil changes on my car. It is probably 2 1/2 x 4 feet and it does a good job of catching all the crap.
> 
> Honestly, I would much rather just take off the chain, freewheel, and chainrings and drop them in a ultrasonic cleaner than stand there for 10 minutes messing with my chain.
> 
> Plus, with the recommendation that this be done every 300 miles, I'll be doing it every week or every other week during the peak of the season. No thanks on that one.


From the sound of your original post, it seemed to me like you were riding daily, and wanted the bike back on the road asap. I commute daily - quite a long way in all kinds of weather - and quick cleaning is important to me. I'm not cleaning the whole bike, just the drivetrain. When I ride home through melting snow, salt, gravel, etc., I take the bike to the basement & clean the drivetrain as I described. My drivetrain *IS* sparkling by the time I'm done. Over 50 years of adult riding, I've tried a bunch of different ways of cleaning/lubing the drivetrain. IME, this works as well as anything else I've tried. I've had 0 problems with it, and yes...I can do it in about ten min. and have a drivetrain you could eat from.


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## OldSkoolFatGuy (Sep 6, 2007)

A simple quote from a metal website.

"Most oils, with the exception of animal based oil, displace water from any surface where they contact."

Thus steam cleaning a chain is perfectly safe as long as you lube it up asap after drying.

That said I still think the homebrew or "your lube of choice" is a faster way to do things and also is effective at cleaning!


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Mr. Versatile said:


> have a drivetrain you could eat from.


No thanks, I'll eat at home then we can just go out for a few beers...LOL


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