# Chain Lube Wars



## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Please let's keep this civilized.

After the heated debate that arisen here, I looked up info on Chain-L lube, that many some on here as being far superior than any home brew recipes.

FB of Chain-L lube sent me over some to test out, after I just inquired about the product. never asked for anything, but I was offered a free sample to test and give my opinion if I wanted too. Very nice gesture on their part.

I also agreed, before giving any public opinion of positive or negative feedback, to please speak with them first, to make sure we are on the same page and I followed directions clearly. I agreed and feel that they should have a chance to respond either way.

Today, I washed off my bike and got ready to use the new lube.

In the last month I have done 2 century rides in wet and salt air, 4-5 rides of 45+ miles in the rain and salt air and a hair over 575 miles since Nov 1st and my last chain cleaning and real good re-lube job with my hombrew stuff. I use a KMC x10 SL chain and a KCNC al/sc/ti casstte. Both have over 2K miles and the drivetrain is silent and shifts well with my stuff. I do add a quick little lubing every 60-80 miles. But just a quick drip and cleaning.

But I throughly clean my chain with MS every month or so. Then I let it soak in HB to really get the lube inside.

Sundays ride was in a good downpour and I had grime, sand salt, and just plain dirt every wear on my bike. It was nasty after back to back wet rainy rides.

The drivetrain was nasty, but it was dead silent and shifted flawlessly.

My home brew is 1 part Mobil 1 W15-50 to 3 parts Odorless Mineral Spirits or Naptha. This is very comparable to ProLink in feel, look and lasting qualities for me.

So after giving my chain a very nice cleaning in MS, I put the chain on the bike and pulled out the Chain-L lube.

One think I noticed was how thick the CL went on, yet not messy or dripping link ProLink or HB. It poured like a thick honey, but seemed to get into the links very quickly. Each link was given a nice healthy dose. I set it sit in for 5 min, then went over it with a nice clean paper towel to get off any excess lube. The nice part? Not much excess lube dripped off or needed to be wiped up like my HB or PL. Very nice.


So I will put it to the grind of 300-400+ miles this month of December. I will also lube up my Fixed gear and my SS bike with Chain-L too. I use a wet lube from Finish Line on those, as they see less attention or more marsh conditions.

If I like this stuff, I might stop using homebrew, even if it cost me a few bucks if wear and maintenance is better. Why like hombrew. Cheap, works and I can flush/lube my chain after every ride. I stopped doing that this last month so I could really put my HB through the ringer.

Over the last 12 years, on the road, off-road and on multiple bikes and chains, I have tired more lubes than I could imagine. My Favorite had been HB, Pro-Link or Boesheild on the road and Finish Line Cross Country for the MTBs.

I have tired the following lubes:

Pro-Link
Boeshiled
Tri-Flow
White Lightning
Rock and Roll, Gold, Red and Blue
Finish Line
Swiss Stop
Pedro's Ice wax and a few others that I can't remember.

So I am looking forward to how Chain-L lube will compare to the others.


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## bike981 (Sep 14, 2010)

DIRT BOY said:


> Over the last 12 years, on the road, off-road and on multiple bikes and chains, I have tired more lubes than I could imagine. My Favorite had been HB, Pro-Link or Boesheild on the road and Finish Line Cross Country for the MTBs.
> 
> I have tired the following lubes:
> 
> ...


Can you explain how you selected your "favorite" lubes from all these you've tried? What exactly did you notice that was different among them (and vs. HB)?

Cost is one obvious factor, but unless you're using lots of lube (which you may be doing since you seem to have several bikes), the raw cost of probably any lube is going to pale in comparison to other bike-related expenses (tubes, tires, clothing, etc.)


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

bike981 said:


> Can you explain how you selected your "favorite" lubes from all these you've tried? What exactly did you notice that was different among them (and vs. HB)?
> 
> Cost is one obvious factor, but unless you're using lots of lube (which you may be doing since you seem to have several bikes), the raw cost of probably any lube is going to pale in comparison to other bike-related expenses (tubes, tires, clothing, etc.)


I selected my favorites based on several factors. 

1. How clean does the chain stay after use
2. How quiet was drivetrain was after lubing and use
3. Cleaning and lubing properties of each one
4. Wear rate on chains and cassettes.

But I guess the main thing is wear and now quiet and well the drivetrain should shift.

Pro-Link seemed to be my favorite. After many posts here and listening to guys on like/respect here, I tried HB. In reality HB is nor better or worse than Pro-Link. But it cost me a fraction of what PL would cost. This allows me to use the stuff like crazy and use after every ride to keep my chains and cassettes pristine and with very little wear.

part of being a Weight Weenie is the tinkering of bikes. Making my own chain-lube allows me to tinker with different oils and carrying agents. It's fun.

Same thing on the MTB side when I came up with my own HB Tire Sealant that out preformed Stan's of No Tubes sealant any day. Same with Slime or Hutchinson's stuff.

I use the lubes on buddies, customers or neighbors bikes as well when fixing them.

If Chain-L is as good as their site claims to be or others here, I might justify the cost of that stuff. But it would really have to beat my HB hands down. Will it? We will see.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

I've tried a bunch, too -- and Home Brew is my favorite (because it is cheap and seems to be quite effective).

That being said, I would love to try out some Chain-L...folks who have tried it generally speak in reverential terms about its quality. I had a chance to meet Francis at Interbike 2010, but his kiosk was mobbed by fans so I ran out of time...would have loved a sample or two!


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

my lube of choice is Tri-Flow and I ride in dry conditions 99.9% of the time...over the last few years, using this product every 200-300 miles has provided exceptional life from chains and cassettes. not all that expensive and very easy to apply.

based on a recent thread, I bought a trial size of the Chain-L but haven't used it yet....waiting for a real crappy weather day to devote time to cleaning the entire drivetrain and applying the lube.

looking forward to providing a review.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

I am a huge ChainL fan. I dont talk it up as much as I could but often get coments about how quiet and smooth shifting my drivetrain is. 
I guess quiet and smooth is best judged by other around you than yourself while riding. I love this stuff. 
I dont know how he is going to make any money though. I was given a 4 oz bottle as a sample and its only about 1/3 used, this year. This stuff kicks ass.


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## thatdrewguy (Aug 7, 2009)

I think I've read that Chain-L gives off a distinct smell or odor? Is this true? I would like to try Chain-L but I keep my bikes inside the house. I don't think I want to smell the lube every time I walk by the bikes no matter if the scent is nice or foul.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

thatdrewguy said:


> I think I've read that Chain-L gives off a distinct smell or odor? Is this true? I would like to try Chain-L but I keep my bikes inside the house. I don't think I want to smell the lube every time I walk by the bikes no matter if the scent is nice or foul.


Closet chain sniffer? There may be a support group for that.

Just kidding. Yah it smells. I keep my bikes in the basement and you can smell it down there. 
I just did the framesaver on my Bianchi so you cant smell the chain loub right now.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

thatdrewguy said:


> I think I've read that Chain-L gives off a distinct smell or odor? Is this true? I would like to try Chain-L but I keep my bikes inside the house. I don't think I want to smell the lube every time I walk by the bikes no matter if the scent is nice or foul.


I don't smell anything that harsh. smell like chainlube or oil. But not that strong IMO.


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## MerlinDS (May 21, 2004)

everybody talks HB, what type of bottle do you store it in, and use for applying?


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

MerlinDS said:


> everybody talks HB, what type of bottle do you store it in, and use for applying?


I store mine in a 20oz gatorade bottle. I use an old Pro-Link bottle to apply.


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

tihsepa said:


> I am a huge ChainL fan. I dont talk it up as much as I could but often get coments about how quiet and smooth shifting my drivetrain is.


Your kidding right?




thatdrewguy said:


> I think I've read that Chain-L gives off a distinct smell or odor? Is this true? I would like to try Chain-L but I keep my bikes inside the house. I don't think I want to smell the lube every time I walk by the bikes no matter if the scent is nice or foul.


Yes ChainL has a strong petroleum odor, if you keep your bike in the house it will smell like an oil field. Well maybe that not strong (but certainly the same odor). I guess it depends how sensitive you are to odors. I would be more concerned about any females in the house as they tend to be more sensitive to odors than guys. I guess the same can probably be said of some tires. I've had the product in my garage probably for a couple of years but hadn't tried it; bought it for the name. Anyway I am trying it for the first time now an so far it rocks.


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## Jesse D Smith (Jun 11, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> Please let's keep this civilized.
> 
> After the heated debate that arisen here, I looked up info on Chain-L lube, that many some on here as being far superior than any home brew recipes.
> 
> ...


You didn't mention it, but I'd recommend you lightly wipe down the chain after a few rides as the label recommends.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

MerlinDS said:


> everybody talks HB, what type of bottle do you store it in, and use for applying?


I dumped out a bottle of that sorry-a$$ White Lightning and mix my home brew right in there...applicator tip and everything!


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I use Chain L on my touring bikes but I use Finish Line Dry on my other bikes. I think the Finish Line Dry with Teflon is probably the same as TriFlow Superior. I'm still testing the Chain L, it does seem to be really good stuff, but I'm not so sure it's as good as the two mentioned teflon products for dry conditions, but the jury is still out. The biggest thing for me is wear, and if the wear shows a superior life using the Chain L then I may switch all my bikes over, but I'll have to wait until at least next year to get an idea.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Jesse D Smith said:


> You didn't mention it, but I'd recommend you lightly wipe down the chain after a few rides as the label recommends.


I will and do the same now with HB. I am trying to follow the instructions exactly.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

froze said:


> The biggest thing for me is wear, and if the wear shows a superior life using the Chain L then I may switch all my bikes over, but I'll have to wait until at least next year to get an idea.


For what it's worth, I use Chain-L on my Campy SR11. I typically relube every 500-1000 miles or so, dry weather riding only. My current chain is now at 6000 miles. It looks (and shifts) perfectly fine, and so do my cogs, including the titanium ones. There's no noticeable or measurable stretch, either, but since this is a Campy chain that doesn't mean much (those things don't stretch, period...)

I am going to put a new chain on this winter, just to be on the safe side, though.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

All the properties that make Mobile1 15-50 good and expensive for engines are irrelevant and possibly counterproductive for bike chain use. IMO, for HB, cheap single weight oil is better, and gear oil or chain bar oil is better yet.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Pirx said:


> For what it's worth, I use Chain-L on my Campy SR11. I typically relube every 500-1000 miles or so, dry weather riding only. My current chain is now at 6000 miles. It looks (and shifts) perfectly fine, and so do my cogs, including the titanium ones. There's no noticeable or measurable stretch, either, but since this is a Campy chain that doesn't mean much (those things don't stretch, period...)
> 
> I am going to put a new chain on this winter, just to be on the safe side, though.


You mean with Campy SR11 there's no way to measure chain wear at all? and there isn't any wear indicators like unusual noise when it's worn? I guess you're suppose to change it at pretermined intervals? I think that could cause problems with the non-mechanically inclined person who could just keep riding on it thinking there's nothing wrong for way past the recommended mileage.

All this chain lube talk makes me wonder, what does the chain manufactures put on their chains when they leave the factory? I know they don't use wax; and Sheldon Brown once said that the factory lube was the best and not to clean it off when it's new.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

Did you lube your chain yet? I am sooooo exited to hear how applying some lube to your chain works out for you. Will it be more satisfying than your last lubing? Or will it all turn into one messy disappointment?


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## jnbrown (Dec 9, 2009)

I have nothing against Chain-L and a lot of people seem to like it.
I found that it smells like sulphur but it doesn't seem bother most people as much as it did me.
As you mentioned it has the consistency of honey and I found it sticky which makes it last but it also attracts dirt. All lubes do this to some extent. My favorite is Rock N Roll gold because I find it easier to keep my chain clean. About once a week I wipe it down with some WD-40 and then relube and wipe off excess. Before that I used Dumonde Tech and I think the chain was quieter, but again it was pretty sticky.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*agree mostly, but...*



looigi said:


> All the properties that make Mobile1 15-50 good and expensive for engines are irrelevant and possibly counterproductive for bike chain use. IMO, for HB, cheap single weight oil is better, and gear oil or chain bar oil is better yet.


I am curious what aspects of high-end synthetic oil would be worse for your bike than standard motor oil? When I first started using homebrew I used Mobil One because that what the internet gods said was the recipe. I have since convinced myself that standard oil works just fine


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## m_s (Nov 20, 2007)

The extremely exacting instructions on my bottle of Chain-L are what led me to believe it was a superior product. I can really respect a company that takes the science--nay, art-- of chain lubrication so seriously.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

froze said:


> You mean with Campy SR11 there's no way to measure chain wear at all?


The lack of any significant amount of stretching (until it's too late...) is pretty much a characteristic of all newer Campy chains, not just the Record one. However, by closely inspecting your chain you can see roller/sideplate wear when it's time. That's not really more difficult than measuring chain stretch.



froze said:


> and there isn't any wear indicators like unusual noise when it's worn?


That's not just Campagnolo. Many drivetrains will not warn you with undue noise, or even shifting issues. You'll have to inspect your chain/cogs in order to find out.



froze said:


> I guess you're suppose to change it at pretermined intervals?


Well, it's a good idea to keep track of your component mileage for chains and cassettes, at least. There's no easy way to measure cassette wear, either. You have to recognize it when you see it. 



froze said:


> I think that could cause problems with the non-mechanically inclined person who could just keep riding on it thinking there's nothing wrong for way past the recommended mileage.


Then this "non-mechanically inclined person" should probably take their bike to an LBS they trust for regular maintenance. He or she would probably not know how to assess chain stretch, either.


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## Paul1PA (Sep 16, 2006)

So far, Chain-L has a perfect 5 star rating here on RBR...you don't see that too often! 

Chain-L User Reviews

Personally, I'm quite pleased with the home-brew but open to change. I'll be curious to hear DIRT BOY'S overall assessment. :thumbsup:


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

What type of chain lube you use doesn't matter nearly as much as the habit of wiping your chain down with a clean rag before each ride.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

foto said:


> Did you lube your chain yet? I am sooooo exited to hear how applying some lube to your chain works out for you. Will it be more satisfying than your last lubing? Or will it all turn into one messy disappointment?


Please be constructive or stay out of this thread.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

looigi said:


> All the properties that make Mobile1 15-50 good and expensive for engines are irrelevant and possibly counterproductive for bike chain use. IMO, for HB, cheap single weight oil is better, and gear oil or chain bar oil is better yet.


Why? Thoughts?


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

DaveG said:


> I am curious what aspects of high-end synthetic oil would be worse for your bike than standard motor oil? When I first started using homebrew I used Mobil One because that what the internet gods said was the recipe. I have since convinced myself that standard oil works just fine


Same here. I assumed that all it's friction based properties would help. i know guys who thought of adding Slick 50 to their HB.

I have aslo hear other say that light chain oils work well. I have some light chainsaw oil here I could try.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

jnbrown said:


> I have nothing against Chain-L and a lot of people seem to like it.
> I found that it smells like sulphur but it doesn't seem bother most people as much as it did me.
> As you mentioned it has the consistency of honey and I found it sticky which makes it last but it also attracts dirt. All lubes do this to some extent. My favorite is Rock N Roll gold because I find it easier to keep my chain clean. About once a week I wipe it down with some WD-40 and then relube and wipe off excess. Before that I used Dumonde Tech and I think the chain was quieter, but again it was pretty sticky.


I HATED all the R&R lubes. Nothing but messy and lasted an hour or so, IMO.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

jnbrown said:


> I have nothing against Chain-L and a lot of people seem to like it.
> I found that it smells like sulphur but it doesn't seem bother most people as much as it did me.
> As you mentioned it has the consistency of honey and I found it sticky which makes it last but it also attracts dirt. All lubes do this to some extent. My favorite is Rock N Roll gold because I find it easier to keep my chain clean. About once a week I wipe it down with some WD-40 and then relube and wipe off excess. Before that I used Dumonde Tech and I think the chain was quieter, but again it was pretty sticky.


I have been working in the garage today for 5 hrs and I can't smell it.

Yes, its sticky and will attract dirt if not wiped off properly like the instructions say. That's my main concern.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

jnbrown said:


> I have nothing against Chain-L and a lot of people seem to like it.
> I found that it smells like sulphur but it doesn't seem bother most people as much as it did me.
> As you mentioned it has the consistency of honey and I found it sticky which makes it last but it also attracts dirt. All lubes do this to some extent. My favorite is Rock N Roll gold because I find it easier to keep my chain clean. About once a week I wipe it down with some WD-40 and then relube and wipe off excess. Before that I used Dumonde Tech and I think the chain was quieter, but again it was pretty sticky.


The smell is definitely there. To me it smells like gear oil. I carry my bike inside my car all summer and so I notice it. The smell goes away after a couple of days unless the chain is just loaded and messy with oil.

The stickiness - I wipe the chain down with a rag wetted with mineral spirits - once after I oil it and then again a couple of days later. After that, it stays as clean as any oil I've ever used. Don't get me wrong, I really don't think the type/brand of oil makes a whit of difference as long as you keep the chain oiled. But the cleanliness thing is not a distinguishing factor with any oil that I've used.


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## davcruz (Oct 9, 2007)

I look forward to your report on this lube. I have recently started using the Finish Line Wet Lube and love it! My favorite lube I have used to date, although I have never done the home brew thing.


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## Indyfan (Mar 30, 2004)

When I started out there wasn't all this talk of having a clean chain, unless you wanted to soak your chain in paraffin wax on nearly a daily basis (which I did for a short time.) Then the wax lubes showed up and like everyone I tried them for a while. It helped that I lived in a very dry climate. But I wasn't happy with the actual lubricating qualities of those lubes, meaning I had to reapply about every ride. So I started trying others, Prolink, Rock n Roll, Boeshield, Finish Line etc. They were better, but if I got into rain it was gone. So eventually I went back to Phil Tenacious and was pretty happy about it all. Then I tried Chain-L and it was all over. It will take a pretyy amazing lube to pull me away from this stuff. The smell isn't all that bad and dissipates after a few days. If all I'd ever used was WL or a similar product I might have tried the home brew route. But I like to use the correct tool for for the job and I'd rather spend a few bucks and know my bike is going to perform properly than try cooking something up.


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## cmdrpiffle (Mar 28, 2006)

SilverStar said:


> I dumped out a bottle of that sorry-a$$ White Lightning and mix my home brew right in there...applicator tip and everything!


Now now, White Lightning is great stuff as long as you carry the large size bottle with you on rides and re-apply every 15 minutes...


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

onespeedbiker said:


> Your kidding right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Uh, no. I am not.

Remember though, I did not look to you to validate my experience.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info..*

I've used a Campy 10 chain for 6,000 miles. While it showed very little elongation, the space between the rollers increased greatly, from .200 inch to .240 inch and the side clearance increased to about .013 inch, which is about twice that of a new chain. I decided to put on a new chain and got chain skip on the most-used steel cog (the 19T).

I only rode 4,000 miles with a Record cassette and had far more wear on the 19 and 21T Ti cogs. Those were trashed.


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## minutemaidman (Jun 14, 2010)

Ive got 2 words for all you chain lubers: Dumonde Tech. And if you wanted to add a third word: Lite.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

minutemaidman said:


> Ive got 2 words for all you chain lubers: Dumonde Tech. And if you wanted to add a third word: Lite.


^^^^Finally! I scrolled the whole thread looking for the truth. 

Dumonde Tech is crazy good. I've tried wax based, teflon based and oily stuff...DT is on another level.

Be sure and strip your chain before first application because it it works differently than the other stuff you use.


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## stoked (Aug 6, 2004)

I've been happy with rock n roll gold for many years on MTB and road. I tried their red color version and it does not last long before chain starts to make noise(under 100 miles). I buy the large 16oz bottle and use the small empty bottle that comes with. I'll try to find Dumonde tech or chain L next time. 

Has anyone used a lube that motorcycle shops carry? I recall reading on a bike forum few years back that some cyclists were happy to use it on their bikes and much better value than 4 oz bottle of bicycle lube.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I forgot to mention, there is another lube I really like too, in fact it's better then the FinishLine Dry, it's called Speed SkateLube by Tiodize. This stuff last a long time and it keeps the chain clean, unfortunately their marketing sucks because I can't find it either on the internet to buy or to buy locally. Next spring I'm going to contact my old LBS in Bakersfield where I use to buy it and see if they still sell it and if they would send me some.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Pirx said:


> Then this "non-mechanically inclined person" should probably take their bike to an LBS they trust for regular maintenance. He or she would probably not know how to assess chain stretch, either.


That's the problem, most non-mechanically inclined people won't take a bike to an LBS till there's a problem! I wife (and this is not uncommon even among men) NEVER changed her oil in her car when I first knew her. Her oil was black as tar and was baked onto the dipstick! She would still be lost about how to treat her car if I were die before her, and this is after being married to a car guy for 30+ years!!

And I think today's youth are really going to be bad about this stuff since their dads are into computers and not cars anymore, and the dad can't fix their car due to the complications, so the kids just don't pay attention to how to treat a car, their not mechanically inclined because dad isn't nor is he working on their cars so they can teach their kids how. We're evolving into a country of non-mechanically inclined people.


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## redondoaveb (Jan 16, 2011)

froze said:


> I forgot to mention, there is another lube I really like too, in fact it's better then the FinishLine Dry, it's called Speed SkateLube by Tiodize. This stuff last a long time and it keeps the chain clean, unfortunately their marketing sucks because I can't find it either on the internet to buy or to buy locally. Next spring I'm going to contact my old LBS in Bakersfield where I use to buy it and see if they still sell it and if they would send me some.


Try Tiodize.com. Phone number- 714-898-4355. They are in Huntington Beach, CA. They have a Speed Bike Lube now. Still have the Speed Skate Lube too.


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

froze said:


> You mean with Campy SR11 there's no way to measure chain wear at all? and there isn't any wear indicators like unusual noise when it's worn? I guess you're suppose to change it at pretermined intervals? I think that could cause problems with the non-mechanically inclined person who could just keep riding on it thinking there's nothing wrong for way past the recommended mileage.


There is a way to measure a Campy chain for wear, it's just not the usual 12" rule. Campy recommends you measure the roller wear; from their instruction sheet..


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

redondoaveb said:


> Try Tiodize.com. Phone number- 714-898-4355. They are in Huntington Beach, CA. They have a Speed Bike Lube now. Still have the Speed Skate Lube too.


Thanks, I actually called that number and a marketing agent was to call me back and never did, and I called three times plus e-mailed the company several times only to get a run around.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> Please be constructive or stay out of this thread.


Hey, don't be teste. I like how you are talking about the salt air in your neighborhood, as if riding in south florida is putting your bike through some kind of extreme torture test.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

foto said:


> Hey, don't be teste. I like how you are talking about the salt air in your neighborhood, as if riding in south florida is putting your bike through some kind of extreme torture test.


Riding along the coast and beach can be corrosive to chains. Salt and and at times blowing sand.

Again, please stop showing us what a .............you are. Again, please contribute or stay out of the conversation.


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## Doug B (Sep 11, 2009)

I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil during the 2011 spring-summer-fall riding season. It's dirt cheap... maybe $4 for a quart. 

It's a very light weight oil.

6500+ miles on my chain, chain ring, cassette. The chain measures 12 inches, the cassette shows no wear. The chain ring has some minor wear... but my shifting is smooooooooth. I wipe the chain down with a rag every 150 to 200 miles, and apply one drop to every roller, re-wipe. Runs very quiet.

I just bought a new chain ring, cassette, and chain. Will replace all of the components in early spring. I plan on measuring exactly how much wear is on all of the parts, using some of the inspection equipment at work.


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## ohiorick (May 29, 2010)

froze said:


> I know they don't use wax; and Sheldon Brown once said that the factory lube was the best and not to clean it off when it's new.


here is how a bike chain is made, near the end, it gets lubed. Looks like warm heavy weight oil to me. Bike Chains - How its Made - YouTube

:thumbsup:


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## bikes4fun (Mar 2, 2010)

Camilo said:


> The smell is definitely there. To me it smells like gear oil.


Comments.
I don't know much about bike chain lube, but I was once a car mechanic and raced as an amateur in SCCA. The extreme pressure gear lube (for certain transmissions and rear end differentials, when most cars were rear wheel driven) had extra additives,usually sulfur based, so perhaps that's where the smell is originating. 
I don't know if it's still the same but motorcycle chain lubes about twenty years ago were formulated to be able to seep into the chain rollers and 'expand'. 
Thanks for all the informative posts - I'm learning a lot.


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## voodooguy (Aug 18, 2007)

Chain-L fan here: Runs quieter longer; 
Does not seem to pick up grit like other lubes have;
Seems to get into the links quickly (as noted by OP);
A little does go a long way;
Odor: Yup, Chain-L has a petroleum odor, but has never presented stink problems in the house. I have lubed on the patio and indoors as well. The odor seems very short lived for me. One could argue desensitization; but, the lack of comment from my sons when I use the product seems to support that the odor is minimal. (But then again, I used to love that mimeograph smell way back when...) 

Of course, this is not scientifically based and very subjective. And yes, my buddy has turned to me and commented how quiet my drive train was after I started using Chain-L. (I shared some with him and he's a fan, too.) Now he tells me to lube the darn thing when he can hear it!


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

ohiorick said:


> here is how a bike chain is made, near the end, it gets lubed. Looks like warm heavy weight oil to me. Bike Chains - How its Made - YouTube
> 
> :thumbsup:


Just thought I would point out that the oil a chain ships with is to keep it fresh in storage. Not to protect the pivots, necessarily. You should always wipe and lube your new chain after installing it. I like light weight oils that penetrate the links, I don't mind reapplying every so often.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Did a short ride today of 24 miles. The chain was as quiet as I am used to a shifting is fine. So far its staying the same attracting dirt wise, as my HB does. Sunday I will put in 40-55 miles near the coast and beach. Also expecting rain as well this weekend, so I want to see how the lube handles wet conditions and dirty roads.

I will not oil the chain for the next 30 days or 200-300 miles to see how it behaves.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

foto said:


> Just thought I would point out that the oil a chain ships with is to keep it fresh in storage. Not to protect the pivots, necessarily. You should always wipe and lube your new chain after installing it. I like light weight oils that penetrate the links, I don't mind reapplying every so often.


Do you have any particular evidence to back that up, or are you stating a personal theory?

I'm not saying you are wrong. But certain of the chain makers - SRAM comes to mind in particular - make a big deal about how special the lube they supply on their chains is.

Snipped from sram.com:



> An equally smooth operator on city bike paths and country trails. PowerLink™ "no weak link" technology lets you insert, press, and lock to join links. No tools needed. GLEITMO™ — biking's best chain lubricant — coats chain for superior protection against friction and dirt.


Now, I'm not saying I'm buying into ad copy - but they don't seem to be suggesting that it's meant to be a rust preventative.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

danl1 said:


> Do you have any particular evidence to back that up, or are you stating a personal theory?
> I'm not saying you are wrong. But certain of the chain makers - SRAM comes to mind in particular - make a big deal about how special the lube they supply on their chains is.
> Snipped from sram.com:
> Now, I'm not saying I'm buying into ad copy - but they don't seem to be suggesting that it's meant to be a rust preventative.


It was emphatically stated to me 10+ years ago by Ed the SRAM traveling service rep that their Gleitmo was to be left *on* and lubed over when it was dry & depleted. Official word from Sram outweighs anyone's personal opinion.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Context*



foto said:


> Just thought I would point out that the oil a chain ships with is to keep it fresh in storage. Not to protect the pivots, necessarily. You should always wipe and lube your new chain after installing it. I like light weight oils that penetrate the links, I don't mind reapplying every so often.


This depends totally on the specific lube used. Some years ago, Shimano would ship their chains coated with something similar to cosmoline and indeed that gunk needed to be removed. At the same time Campy was shipping chains with a very high quality chain lube applied and all you had to do was wipe the exterior lube off the chain and ride. The last Shimano chain I worked with no longer had the waxy gunk on it and appeared ready to ride (after wiping). Your blanket statement is not correct.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

danl1 said:


> Do you have any particular evidence to back that up, or are you stating a personal theory?
> 
> I'm not saying you are wrong. But certain of the chain makers - SRAM comes to mind in particular - make a big deal about how special the lube they supply on their chains is.
> 
> ...


personal theory.


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## davidka (Dec 12, 2001)

Interesting to hear that Marvel Mystery is working well. I've wondered in the past, think I'll try it too.

I was told that the sticky stuff that Shimano ships on their chain was primarily a rust/corrosion protector. It certainly makes for a quiet drive train on new bikes but it picks up a ton of gunk and I've never wanted to add more of it. All of the Shimano and KMC chains I have used had this sticky stuff. SRAM's stuff seems more like a wax. If they say its a good lube then why not leave it? It's not as though it lasts the life of the chain.

I've used the Dumonde Tech, it's decent but I did not like it as much as Pro-Link Gold. That's been my favorite for the road for a long time.


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## saf-t (Sep 24, 2008)

Chain-L has been my lube of choice for my winter commuter for the past 2 years. I've been completely satisfied.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

cmdrpiffle said:


> Now now, White Lightning is great stuff as long as you carry the large size bottle with you on rides and re-apply every 15 minutes...


Preach it!


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## MarkZeus (Jun 12, 2008)

Hmm, ChainL lube eh may have to give it a try someday and the HB too. I'm currently on Dumond Tech lite and ridden mostly on dry to occasional damp weather. Doesn't pick up alot of dirt and seem to hold up ok in the rainy northwest. I use the regular Dumond on my mtn bike. I've used White Lightning (never again) and have to reapply after every other ride


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## bike981 (Sep 14, 2010)

Has anyone pondered the "meta question" of why is it so hard to make a decent chain lube? Really, in the grand scheme of mechanical things, a bicycle chain just can't be all that demanding of an application compared to cars, industrial machinery, power plants, etc. (Personal opinion, of course.) 

Is the bicycle chain lube debate just splitting hairs? If not, then why is it so hard to formulate a decent chain lube?


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

bike981 said:


> Is the bicycle chain lube debate just splitting hairs? If not, then why is it so hard to formulate a decent chain lube?


It's been real easy for me. I just mix some oil (the type isn't of great concern to me) with a thinner. I should market this stuff and come up with a trick website that makes all kinds of non-provable claims and I'll bet I'd make lots of money.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

30+ years of bikes and I find Chain-L to be the best lube I have ever used. I live in Phoenix where we don't get much rain but do get a lot of dust. Follow the instructions and you will get a nice smooth and quiet ride without frequent reapplications so one bottle lasts a very long time.
I'd rather pay for this than try to create my own so I can brag about how smart I am on the internet. You see the same thing on gun forums btw. About how motor oil, designed for totally different uses, is really the way to lube a firearm plus people who use it and pay less are oh so much smarter than people wasting money on cleaners and lubes designed for a specific purpose.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

bike981 said:


> Has anyone pondered the "meta question" of why is it so hard to make a decent chain lube? Really, in the grand scheme of mechanical things, a bicycle chain just can't be all that demanding of an application compared to cars, industrial machinery, power plants, etc. (Personal opinion, of course.)
> 
> Is the bicycle chain lube debate just splitting hairs? If not, then why is it so hard to formulate a decent chain lube?



It is not hard - it's easy as virtually any lubricant, if replenished when needed, will lubricate a bicycle chain just fine.

And yes, the debate is totally splitting hairs. 

Just my personal opinion of course.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*two things*



bike981 said:


> Has anyone pondered the "meta question" of why is it so hard to make a decent chain lube? Really, in the grand scheme of mechanical things, a bicycle chain just can't be all that demanding of an application compared to cars, industrial machinery, power plants, etc. (Personal opinion, of course.)
> 
> Is the bicycle chain lube debate just splitting hairs? If not, then why is it so hard to formulate a decent chain lube?


I think there are two things that chain lube folks are trying to address. The first is reducing friction. As you suggest that is not all that hard and basic oil works fine. The second is reducing the attraction of dirt. That is what most the the pricier lubes seem to be working at. For me, I am fine with homebrew although I will say that is does attract dirt a bit easier than say ProLink. That said, I just clean more often


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

I agree that some of the lubes are splitting hairs, like the difference between one teflon liube vs any other similar teflon base lube; or one wax vs another wax based lube. But don't think we're splitting hairs when it comes to wax vs teflon lube; it's clear that wax is not a lube and chains won't last as long with a wax lube. But like Camilo said you need to replenish any lube, and if you do that before it's needed you'll be fine...but I would like to add to that comment...if you clean your chain then replenish the lube you'll be fine. Just like a car you need to keep the engine clean, well you need to keep the chain clean.

As far as demands on a chain goes, again Bike981 is right, it isn't all that demanding for a chain to be on a bicycle, problem is with today's thin jewelry chains most people don't get more then 3,000 miles on those, so there must be some sort of demand on the chain. I think we've gone to far with those skinny chains personally, we need to get back to wider chains or go to a belt drive. I find it nuts that on a new bike every time a set of tires is replace you have to replace your chain and cogs. I come from the old school days, and a chain would easily last 15,000 miles and the cogs twice that! But the world we live in today is all about keeping the money moving...out of our pockets and into theirs as fast as they can.

I have one bike with the narrower chain, and by keeping it clean and lubed with Chain-L I've managed so far to go 4,000 miles without needing to replace it, but about 2,000 of those miles was using Speed SkateLube, but I ran out of that stuff and switched to Chain-L on that bike.


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## thatdrewguy (Aug 7, 2009)

*proper application of Chain-L on new chain?*

First time using Chain-L and it will be on a new chain. The 7701 already comes packed in a very light oil (not the heavy grease I've experienced before). Do I just shorten the chain to the proper length and then apply Chain-L over the oil that came already on the chain? Wipe down chain and then use Chain-L or clean the new chain by degreasing first?


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

They had to go to thinner oil due to skinnier chains.

I too used Chain L on two new chains so I could test the results better. Those test are still on going since I've only got 4000 miles or so on one of the chains, so the test continues this spring.

I wiped the new chain down first but I did not clean it, then applied the Chain L. There is a report that I read recently suggesting that you warm up the bottle of Chain L first in hot water for about 5 minutes, then apply the oil, it makes it a bit thinner and thus flows into the links better. I haven't tried that yet, but in the spring when I give everything a tuneup I'll do that because it sounds logical.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

bike981 said:


> Has anyone pondered the "meta question" of why is it so hard to make a decent chain lube? Really, in the grand scheme of mechanical things, a bicycle chain just can't be all that demanding of an application compared to cars, industrial machinery, power plants, etc. (Personal opinion, of course.)
> 
> Is the bicycle chain lube debate just splitting hairs? If not, then why is it so hard to formulate a decent chain lube?


As someone who formulated a chain lube, I'll tell you what makes it so demanding.

1- though simple devices, bicycle chains operate at high loads compared to their width. That's the reason why their life in hours competes with tires for the shortest of any bike part.

2- besides simply lubricating the chain bike chain lubes have to do this without the constant replenishment of a drip oiler, or sump.

3- bike chain lubes have to survive wet weather without washing out, and at the same time manage not to attract too much dirt in dry or dusty conditions.

So it comes down to the art of striking a balance between a number of competing objectives. Since everyone has different priorities, no one lube will please everybody, hence the ongoing debate.

As has been said various bike parts, "you can have it light, strong or cheap, pick two" likewise there's no perfect chain lube, and folks should pick the one that best fits their preferences.


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## nightfend (Mar 15, 2009)

thatdrewguy said:


> First time using Chain-L and it will be on a new chain. The 7701 already comes packed in a very light oil (not the heavy grease I've experienced before). Do I just shorten the chain to the proper length and then apply Chain-L over the oil that came already on the chain? Wipe down chain and then use Chain-L or clean the new chain by degreasing first?


Don't degrease a chain. You can simply wipe it down and apply Chain-L. Or, like a lot of us do, just put the Shimano chain on and use their sticky oil for a few weeks until it wears off.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

thatdrewguy said:


> First time using Chain-L and it will be on a new chain. The 7701 already comes packed in a very light oil (not the heavy grease I've experienced before). Do I just shorten the chain to the proper length and then apply Chain-L over the oil that came already on the chain? Wipe down chain and then use Chain-L or clean the new chain by degreasing first?


email me using the link at the site and I'll send you a pdf of "added instructions" that we enclose when folks order at our site. It covers compatibility with existing lubes and factory lubes, and other tips on cleaning etc. It's a work in process which we'll be adding to the site when it's cleaned up a bit. 

Meanwhile, don't wash your new chain. Chain-L is compatible with Shimano factory lube and can be added directly over it.


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## thatdrewguy (Aug 7, 2009)

I guess I should have read the instructions that came with the Chain-L as it does already explain what to do with factory lube and compatibility.

:thumbsup:


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## vagabondcyclist (Apr 2, 2011)

I've used Dumonde Tech Lite. It worked, but the smell wasn't very apartment living friendly. Dumonde says to clean the chain before installing and I remember feeling like I had to clean my chain a lot when using Dumonde in order for it to work. Maybe I was doing it wrong?

I'm currently using Boeshield T-9, which I used before switching to Dumonde just to try it. Found about about Boeshield when one of the other shop mechanics brought some in from is day job as an aviation mechanic for a major airline.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

vagabondcyclist said:


> I've used Dumonde Tech Lite. It worked, but the smell wasn't very apartment living friendly. Dumonde says to clean the chain before installing and I remember feeling like I had to clean my chain a lot when using Dumonde in order for it to work. Maybe I was doing it wrong?
> 
> I'm currently using Boeshield T-9, which I used before switching to Dumonde just to try it. Found about about Boeshield when one of the other shop mechanics brought some in from is day job as an aviation mechanic for a major airline.


Boeshield is one of the great mysteries of the internet. It consists of: 61% mineral spirits, 10% mineral oil, and paraffin wax. 

Tons of folk blather on about how great is is for their bike chains, but it's the bastard child of WD-40 and White Lightning.

Great stuff for what it was invented to be. Which was not a mechanical lubricant. Fair to say that WD-40 would be better (it's a slightly heavier oil), as would White Lightning (it dries cleaner and doesn't pick up as much crap.) 

If I need to protect my chain from surface corrosion (the intended use of the product), I'm doing something more fundamentally wrong than choosing the wrong lube. Like forgetting to do it.


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## vagabondcyclist (Apr 2, 2011)

danl1 said:


> Boeshield is one of the great mysteries of the internet. It consists of: 61% mineral spirits, 10% mineral oil, and paraffin wax.


Yep, and Chain-L (not saying that's your lube) is a mineral oil base too. Just sayin'.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

vagabondcyclist said:


> Yep, and Chain-L (not saying that's your lube) is a mineral oil base too. Just sayin'.


No, it's not. On either count. But thanks for playing.


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 22, 2010)

:shrug:... Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I use White Lightning Wet (stock up on it for CX). I just wipe and re-apply a drop to each link every 2-3 rides (clean and re-apply every race or training session on CX). Cheap insurance IMO. Still go through 2-3 chains in a CX season. At most, will cost me $7 a month. Cheaper than beer


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## vagabondcyclist (Apr 2, 2011)

danl1 said:


> No, it's not. On either count. But thanks for playing.


Really? I think you need to update your avatar. 

From Chain-L's website:

"In a word, it’s oil. More specifically, Chain-L is a blend of extreme pressure (EP) lubricants in a high film-strength *mineral oil base*,"

Thanks for playing.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

vagabondcyclist said:


> Yep, and Chain-L (not saying that's your lube) is a mineral oil base too. Just sayin'.


Absolutely, Chain-L is mineral oil and additives. However mineral oil encompasses a tremendous range of products, then there's the additives. 

Saying two lubes are going to be similar because they both contain mineral oil is like saying all frames made of steel are going to be the same.

Anyway, debating the merits of chain lubes based on what they contain is misplaced. It's akin to debating the merits of beer based on the brewing process. I choose beer based on how it tastes, and respectfully suggest that folks should choose chain lubes based on how they work.


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## vagabondcyclist (Apr 2, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> Absolutely, Chain-L is mineral oil and additives. However mineral oil encompasses a tremendous range of products, then there's the additives.
> 
> Saying two lubes are going to be similar because they both contain mineral oil is like saying all frames made of steel are going to be the same.
> 
> Anyway, debating the merits of chain lubes based on what they contain is misplaced. It's akin to debating the merits of beer based on the brewing process. I choose beer based on how it tastes, and respectfully suggest that folks should choose chain lubes based on how they work.


Yep. 

I didn't mean to imply that all mineral oil is the same or that the additives are the same. Just pointing out that a certain someone had some basic facts wrong. Danl1 said Chain-L isn't comprised of a base of mineral oil; it is. And as Chain-L points out, most oils of this type have a mineral oil base of some sort. For DanL1 to imply that one lube was snake oil because it has mineral oil and then out of ignorance, laziness, or a lack of ethics claim that another isn't comprised of the same kind of base oil, strikes me as the kind of thing that causes confusion. 

There's a lot of hype out there and miss representing basic facts is the cause of a lot of that hype. 

I shared what I use and DanL1 seems be on some crusade against what I use. Fine, but he needs to get his basic facts right first. What I use works for me and the environment I live in.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Even though I make chain oil, I hate chain lube debates, which I consider as pointless as beer or wine debates. 

There is no one perfect chain oil, and while one will be better than others in some respects, others may shine in other ways. I sell Chain-L on it's performance, not on what it does or does not contain. 

For what it's worth, the most recent convert to Chain-L is Katie Compton who used it during her 8th CX championship win in Madison earlier this month. That doesn't mean Chain-L is better or somehow contributed to the win, only that winners like it.


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## AvantDale (Dec 26, 2008)

Bought my first bottle of Chain-l. Stuff is a bloody mess to apply...but holy heck...my chain has never been this quiet!


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

AvantDale said:


> Bought my first bottle of Chain-l. Stuff is a bloody mess to apply...but holy heck...my chain has never been this quiet!


Just wipe it down once in a while and it'll be fine. If you stay with it, you'll quickly learn that (and I hate to say this) less is better, and will find applying it about as easy as anything else.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

FBinNY said:


> Even though I make chain oil, I hate chain lube debates, which I consider as pointless as beer or wine debates.
> 
> There is no one perfect chain oil, and while one will be better than others in some respects, others may shine in other ways. I sell Chain-L on it's performance, not on what it does or does not contain.
> 
> For what it's worth, the most recent convert to Chain-L is Katie Compton who used it during her 8th CX championship win in Madison earlier this month. That doesn't mean Chain-L is better or somehow contributed to the win, only that winners like it.


Not sure if you read my earlier post, but since you sell Chain L, what do you think of the idea of first heating Chain L in hot water first before applying to thin it out a bit? I read someone was doing that and liked the results better for the application process, and it seemed to make sense.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

froze said:


> Not sure if you read my earlier post, but since you *invented/created* Chain L, what do you think of the idea of first heating Chain L in hot water first before applying to thin it out a bit? I read someone was doing that and liked the results better for the application process, and it seemed to make sense.


Fixed it.

:thumbsup:


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

froze said:


> Not sure if you read my earlier post, but since you sell Chain L, what do you think of the idea of first heating Chain L in hot water first before applying to thin it out a bit? I read someone was doing that and liked the results better for the application process, and it seemed to make sense.


When I lubed my chain with it, I did not need to. Then again, I live in a warm area. 

I will be posting a review this week on my experience with it.

All I can say is :thumbsup:


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

froze said:


> Not sure if you read my earlier post, but since you sell Chain L, what do you think of the idea of first heating Chain L in hot water first before applying to thin it out a bit? I read someone was doing that and liked the results better for the application process, and it seemed to make sense.


This might answer the question.

from the instructions on the bottle "penetration can be speeded by warming the bottle in a cup of hot tap water (less than 130 degrees) before application. 

I've since dropped that line from the instructions on the site because it was causing confusion, and because some folks got carried away and figured that if warm was good, hot was better and used boiling water, which would be OK if the bottle didn't melt.

In practice Chain-L penetrates faster (but not any more completely) if warm, but it turns out the temperature of the chain is more important than the temperature of the oil which will cool or warm to the chains temp in seconds.

Many people speed penetration using a hot air gun on the chain after application, and this really helps. The main benefit is that it's faster and easier to wipe excess off while the chain is still warm.

While I'm on the subject a reminder to those who use Chain-L in the winter. It'll work well to extremely low temperatures, but cannot be applied to a cold chain - below 60F - because as it cools it thickens and the penetration rate slows to a crawl.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

^^ FBinNY; thanks for the reply and instructions. I knew boiling water would have an adverse effect on the Chain L bottle, not sure why others would not but of course there would be some that wouldn't think first. I would use only tap hot water to heat the bottle/oil up with. But I also like the idea of preheating the chain too, thanks for sharing that information. I would probably do both so one wouldn't cool the other down to fast. Again thanks for the info.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

FBinNY said:


> In practice Chain-L penetrates faster (but not any more completely) if warm, but it turns out the temperature of the chain is more important than the temperature of the oil which will cool or warm to the chains temp in seconds.


So do you recommend microwaving the chain prior to lubing?

Just got my bottle the other day, thanks. Looking forward to trying it out probably this week, maybe I should move the bikes up from the basement to warm them up!


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

GirchyGirchy said:


> So do you recommend microwaving the chain prior to lubing?
> 
> Just got my bottle the other day, thanks. Looking forward to trying it out probably this week, maybe I should move the bikes up from the basement to warm them up!


I have a cheapie toaster oven in the shop that I use to heat the chain.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

GirchyGirchy said:


> So do you recommend microwaving the chain prior to lubing?
> 
> Just got my bottle the other day, thanks. Looking forward to trying it out probably this week, maybe I should move the bikes up from the basement to warm them up!


Microwaving the chain? Hmmmm, that should at least provide some interesting entertainment for the evening!! When you're done microwaving the chain, you can shampoo your dog or cat and stick them in the microwave to dry their hair faster. Really people, DO NOT put a live animal in the microwave, the animal will literally explode, I was just joking about doing that (I thought I better explain that before someone believed me and tried it!!!!). But I did put a cockroach in a microwave once and it did nothing to the roach, it just walked around like it was lost.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> When I lubed my chain with it, I did not need to. Then again, I live in a warm area.
> 
> I will be posting a review this week on my experience with it.
> 
> All I can say is :thumbsup:


Thank GAWD! I have been waiting too long. I was getting worried your chain maybe melted from the heady combination of strange new lewb and extreme south Florida weather, and then dripped melted chain onto your carbon chainstay, which also melted, and you had a terrible accident!


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

GirchyGirchy said:


> So do you recommend microwaving the chain prior to lubing?
> 
> !


*Absolutely not* I hope you were kidding, but just in case you weren't, do not use a microwave oven to try to heat a chain. * Do not put metal into a microwave oven*. 

If you want to warm the chain, and don't have a conventional oven, here's a trick a user sent me. I tried it and it works very well. Oil the chain, put it in a Zip-lok bag and drop it into a pot of hot water. Wait a few minutes, remove, wipe down and install. 

It isn't necessary, and Chain-L will penetrate effectively at room temperature, but it's a bit easier to wipe excess oil off a warm chain than a cool one. Notice that I say warm, not hot, there's no added benefit to going so hot that the chain burns your fingers.


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## BrokenBonz (Nov 20, 2008)

Just started using Chain-L recently after using HB and ProLink for years. So far, I really like it...keeps the drivetrain quiet in my environment (low humidity/typically dry and dusty) and I don't seem to have to reapply after every couple rides like I do with thinner lubes - a big deal for me. Application is the same as any other lube I've used and I don't notice my chain getting any dirtier than I have with other lubes. I just wipe down after riding. I have not been using it long enough to comment on chain wear/longevity.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

I have a serious question, the chain-l website says:

"A road cyclist, riding first-tier equipment, will typically wear a chain out in as little as 50* hours of use --often destroying the cassette or chainrings in the process."

Does anybody here actually believe that?

I mean, I usually ride second-tier equipment, but I have several years of year-round New England weather on one of my bikes, and I haven't had to replace the chainring yet...


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## vipergts (Aug 18, 2011)

Just put my order in for one. Needed to switch up.


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## GirchyGirchy (Feb 12, 2004)

PlatyPius said:


> I have a cheapie toaster oven in the shop that I use to heat the chain.


Can I mail you my chain to warm it up? Kthx!


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

GirchyGirchy said:


> Can I mail you my chain to warm it up? Kthx!


Better send it Express Mail....


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

foto said:


> I have a serious question, the chain-l website says:
> 
> "A road cyclist, riding first-tier equipment, will typically wear a chain out in as little as 50* hours of use --often destroying the cassette or chainrings in the process."
> 
> ...


This has led to some confusion, but as Campagnolo's east coast service tech I received many complaints from riders getting as little as 1,000 miles or so out of the early 10s chains. At 20mph that's 50 hours and where the figure comes from. In fact it's possible to do much better, and I'll re-edit the site deleting the word "typically", of flesh this out in greater detail.

Shortest chain life will happen with high tension, such as steep hill climbing, or sustained high speeds combined with narrow chains. Ironically 1st tier equipment has a shorter life, partly because it's likely to be narrow 10s vs. 8s or 9s, and because the owners are likely to be riding harder. Many pro team mechanics routinely replace chains at 1,000 miles or so.

Anyone who's spent any time on these forums knows that chain life varies tremendously rider to rider, with reported life running from 1,000- to over 10,000 miles.


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## Ventura Roubaix (Oct 10, 2009)

Sorry if this has already been mentioned, I didn't read ever post, but I got the idea for this stuff off of this forum about a month ago, have used it for only about 100 mile and like it so far, the chain is quieter and doesn't seem to pick up much or any dirt.


DuPont(R) Teflon(TM) Chain-Saver Lubricant, Net Wt 11 oz. (CS0110101)



Amazon.com: DuPont(R) Teflon(TM) Chain-Saver Lubricant, Net Wt 11 oz. (CS0110101)


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## supraholic (Oct 10, 2010)

Chain-L is the best one so far for me. It does not attract a lot of grit. 

I tried Dumomde, Wax and synthetic. It doesn't compare to Chain-L.

I still have to try home brew one of these days.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

There was a chain lube that I used for the last 8 or 9 years called Speed Skate Lube, yup used for skate bearings, that worked fantastic on chains. Problem is I can't seem to find anyone that will sell it where I live now.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

vagabondcyclist said:


> I've used Dumonde Tech Lite. It worked, but the smell wasn't very apartment living friendly. Dumonde says to clean the chain before installing and I remember feeling like I had to clean my chain a lot when using Dumonde in order for it to work. Maybe I was doing it wrong?


When done right you apply Dumonde Tech much less often than other lubes...because it polymerizes to the metal. Adding more before you need it causes it to get messy because there is no metel exposed for it to polymerize to. 

Strip the chain with degreaser the first time you apply. Do your best to get it on the bearings of the chain only. Wipe it down really well. Like any lube, wipe it down after EVERY ride as the forces of riding force out any oil that hasn't polymerized.


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