# Costa Brava Cruising - Spain RR



## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

April means one thing for the Family (not taxes!!) -- a trip down south for some much needed exposure to the Sun which, typically, at this time of year in Paris is a far, far off memory. 

However, hot off (and I do mean hot!) a week-end trip to <a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=91499&highlight=flanders">Flanders</a> and having spent much of the Spring experiencing unusually clement and sunny springtime weather (thanks to SUV drivers around the world!) -- it was with some trepidation that we noted that Catalunya (this year's spring holiday destination) had experienced weather more characteristic of London, Paris or Portland at this time of year -- that means rain and lots of it! Come our day of departure, we had steeled ourselves for a rainy-day city vacation even though we had selected a nice B&B outside of Girona as our base. We figured the kids were going to get their fill of culture in Cadaques, Barcelona, Girona and Figueras while we adults got our fill of Tapas!

The bike, however, was packed ... just in case.

This isn't the <a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=42776">first time</a> this genial and semi-autonomous corner of Spain has been documented in these pages, nor is it likely to be the <a href="http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=53108&highlight=catalunya">last</a> -- but it is arguably the most recent submission -- so enjoy! 

After 2 days of rain which saw us taking the train down to Barcelona for the aformentioned urban exploration of all things Gaudi and Tapesque, the sun rose on the third day illuminating a lush green land in full Spring renewal. I spent the next few early mornings getting in some longish training rides and most of the afternoons at the beaches or exploring remote mountain villages w/ the girls.

Based on fellow rbr'r rs3o's report on his trip here 1.5 yrs ago (see link above) and my previous exploration of the area, we had decided to stay in Bordils at the lovely "Mas de la Roda" -- a truely wonderful B&B with easy access to the train, the beaches, Girona and some of the few nice country roads in the region. The map below shows where I did most of my riding -- 
Circuit 1: 70 km loop heading over the Pass at St. Pellaia and back by the Angles -- a well-known climb used by Girona cyclists. 
Circuit 2: To the beaches -- after the morning ride, I'd head down this road and meet the family for an afternoon of hard-core sunning and sand-castle building followed by an equally gruelling session of beach-side café lounging.
Circuit 3: Well, not so much a circuit as a ride-out-to-meet-the-family-in-Olot for an ice-cream. Through the spectacular regional nature park of Garrotxa -- known for its countrysides and superlative sheep's cheese -- yum!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Costa Brava #2*

Loop 1 takes you south from Bordils on some very nice small roads before turning west and climbing over the equally lovely S. Pellaia pass whose top is marked by the chapel of the same name, then after another nice road that drops you into the outskirts of Girona, you have to put up with a hellish road that takes you to the foot of the climb to S. Maria d. Angels -- where serenety once again descends upon the lone cyclist. I did this loop 4 times -- and am able to report that while there is not much nice riding in the Gerona area, this loop certainly is worth it -- despite the 8 km on the bustling National road.

After the rain, the countryside was unusually green and lush and the smell of the dew on the loamy soil was just about enough to make up for the clouds of diesel exhaust on the Gerona side. One thing that struck me was the abundance of an edible herb we in France call <i>bourrache</i> ... and no one was picking any!

The pictures that follow are all from that loop or from the environs of the B&B in Bordils.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

Spain, hmmmmmm.  

Did you drop off some blood for later in the season? :blush2:


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Costa Brava RR #3*

After the hard work (!), the fun. A quick ride southeast reunited w/ my family at the beaches -- which, I must say, were quite wonderful at this time of year. My last experience w/ Costa Brava beaches were from my teen-age years at the Tossa de Mar campground in August ... not quite the same thing! The pictures below were taken while riding to or from the beaches of Tamariu and Calella de Palafrugell.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

I am on **fire** now! One of my team-mates noted the coincidence: good form -- recent trip to Spain...


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Costa Brava #4*

Can you ever spend <i>too</i> much time at the beach? Not according to my girls! Nonetheless, for their own good, we penned in a trip through the Volcanic Garrotxa park NW of Girona -- if only to go buy some of the cheese of the same name. I rode out ahead of time and we spent a nice day wandering around some very nice medieval villages and gazing at the Pyrenees looming their snow-covered peaks behind Olot. My wife and I quite enjoyed ourselves, the girls noted that their apparent enjoyment of the day was not to be confused with any actual condonement of time spent away from the Beach.


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

*Costa Brava #5*

And, to close, a few pictures of all things food and pedal-power-related from the trip. 

The sheep heads were a bargain at 1.2 euro's EACH! If we had not maxed out our carry-on limits (Thanks RyanAir!) a few of those babies would be simmering in a pot of soup at Casa Philippe!

Hope you enjoyed the report!

Philippe


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

*Omg Lol*



philippec said:


> ......The sheep heads were a bargain at 1.2 euro's EACH! If we had not maxed out our carry-on limits (Thanks RyanAir!) a few of those babies would be simmering in a pot of soup at Casa Philippe!......


PETA is not going to be happy with you!

BTW ComMUTer Man asked what sort of soup you would make with that (yes, we know "Sheeps Head Soup." Details man, we want details).


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

First you need a large stone .....

ok, ok, seriously now:

Olive oil, minced onion and 2-3 hot peppers in a thick iron soup pot. Cook till the onion is transluscent, remove.

Take each half sheep's head and sear (make sure you remove the eyes, the brain and the tongue). remove.

Finely chopped carrots, cardoons and celery -- cook 5 mins.

Place heads, eyes, onion mixture etc. and 2-anchovies in pan and cover with a bottle of dry white wine and vegetable or meat stock. Cook 3-4 hrs on low heat w/ some rosemary and bay leaves.

Place sliced tongue in w/ 1.5 hrs to go. 

Cook up brains in a pan and serve up on roasted bread slices rubbed w/ olive oil (the good stuff), garlic, sea salt and ripe tomates. 

Skim the floating scum off the surface, remove the head, tongue and eyes and serve on a separate plate. Accompany meat w/ bowls of the stock and some home-made garlic croutons.

You can also serve up some Ratte du Touquet-type potatoes to accompany this dish.

The wine that you serve should hold its own to the garlic -- a good idea is a lower Cotes du Rhone or a St. Chinian or a Faugeres.

Enjoy.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

philippec said:


> ....Cook up brains in a pan and serve up on roasted bread slices rubbed w/ olive oil (the good stuff), garlic, sea salt and ripe tomates.
> 
> ........ head, tongue and eyes and serve on a separate plate. Accompany meat w/ bowls of the stock and some home-made garlic croutons.......The wine that you serve should hold its own to the garlic -- a good idea is a lower Cotes du Rhone or a St. Chinian or a Faugeres.......


That sounds delicious. I just ate breakfast and am hungry again just from reading that (or maybe it's from riding too much this week (but that meal still sounds great))!


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## undies (Oct 13, 2005)

philippec said:


> Skim the floating scum off the surface, remove the head, tongue and eyes and serve on a separate plate.


I think they served this in that one Indiana Jones movie  

Seriously though,.. incredible photos!


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## MarkS (Feb 3, 2004)

philippec said:


> Cook up brains in a pan and serve up on roasted bread slices rubbed w/ olive oil (the good stuff), garlic, sea salt and ripe tomates.
> 
> Skim the floating scum off the surface, remove the head, tongue and eyes and serve on a separate plate. Accompany meat w/ bowls of the stock and some home-made garlic croutons.


I felt adventerous last week when I made sweetbreads two weeks ago. This recipe, like your photo report, is just over the top. Just as I never will get up the cols of the Alps or the Pyrenees as fast as you can, I don't think that I ever will come close to my making a feast like the one you have described above. But, hope springs eternal.

Thanks for posting.


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## CaliBuddha (Jan 3, 2007)

awesome pics man! ive gotta look at your other destinations now


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## YuriB (Mar 24, 2005)

bravo costa brava!


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

Great pictures. I bought a new camera yesterday to take to Italy. My photos will be much sharper than before. I know that we will spend some time in Spain, but unfortunately it will probably be Rota on the Atlantic coast. Nice people, good food, but unfortunately not that scenic.


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## bjohnso9 (Dec 20, 2005)

Absolutely superb photography! Thanks!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

Thanks to all -- next stop: Bulgaria!


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## deadlegs (Jan 28, 2004)

Philippec, Amazing, as usual! Thanks for posting.


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## Antonio_B (Dec 9, 2005)

Awesome. Thanks again for the report, phillipe.


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## I am The Edge (Jul 27, 2004)

outstanding!


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