# How high above the handlebars should the saddle be?



## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

This is a follow-up question to my previous sizing question, but I felt it was a separate matter for discussion.

Someone was nice enough to post a link to Rivendell’s website, who stated that the saddle and the handlebars should be similar in height.

Obviously, what we see from most bikers is something quite different - the saddle is well above the handlebars.

In my case, the top of my saddle is about 3.5” above the top of the handlebars. I don’t have a mirror to see how this positions my torso, but if I let go of the handlebars I can just barely keep myself from tipping forward (but then again, I have a big upper body).

So, what is the average height of the saddle above the handlebars?


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Waspinator said:


> This is a follow-up question to my previous sizing question, but I felt it was a separate matter for discussion.
> 
> Someone was nice enough to post a link to Rivendell’s website, who stated that the saddle and the handlebars should be similar in height.
> 
> ...


The most important thing about saddle adjustment is that it must reach up to your ass without hyperextending your knees. Height above bars is secondary.


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

How long is a length of string?
Some people have their bars above the saddle, some people have their bars below their saddle, and some people have their bard the same height as the saddle.
It all depend on what you are doing with the bike. For general purpose riding, it doesn't hurt to have the bars level, or above the saddle. For racing, most people have their bars 4 to 6 inches below the saddle. Posers who want to look like they are racers use deep drop bars, but have 2 to 3 inches of spacers under the stem.

Flexability and use determines how low you bars should be.
.
.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

There is no standard its all about how much flexibility you have. My road bikes have about 2in of drop with shallow compact bars. My mountain bike is level. I find the setups on my road bikes to be the best for me for every day riding and racing. The mountain bike is a completely different animal


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

MR_GRUMPY said:


> How long is a length of string?
> Some people have their bars above the saddle, some people have their bars below their saddle, and some people have their bard the same height as the saddle.
> It all depend on what you are doing with the bike. For general purpose riding, it doesn't hurt to have the bars level, or above the saddle. For racing, most people have their bars 4 to 6 inches below the saddle. Posers who want to look like they are racers use deep drop bars, but have 2 to 3 inches of spacers under the stem.
> 
> ...



Well, surely there must be an ideal angle at which one’s back should be when riding with one’s hands on the hoods and on the drops, right?

So, for example, if one’s arms were very short, the handlebars should be raised (or the saddle lowered) to prevent that person from leaning over too far. Correct?


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

pulser955 said:


> There is no standard its all about how much flexibility you have. My road bikes have about 2in of drop with shallow compact bars. My mountain bike is level. I find the setups on my road bikes to be the best for me for every day riding and racing. The mountain bike is a completely different animal


True, which is why I’m having trouble figuring determining if this frame I bought is ok for me! Mountain bike sizing is no problem for me (and yes, I keep my saddle and my handlebars about level on my MTBs).


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

Waspinator said:


> True, which is why I’m having trouble figuring determining if this frame I bought is ok for me! Mountain bike sizing is no problem for me (and yes, I keep my saddle and my handlebars about level on my MTBs).


Have you had a fit? I had a Retul fit over the winter and they had me switch to the compact bars.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Waspinator said:


> Obviously, what we see from most bikers is something quite different - the saddle is well above the handlebars


What bikers? Are you basing this observation on photos of pro and amateur racers or perhaps on the photos of bikes in bike seller's catalogs and websites? These images have nothing to do with the realities facing most recreational riders.


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

pulser955 said:


> Have you had a fit? I had a Retul fit over the winter and they had me switch to the compact bars.


No. For a couple of reasons:

1. In the past, 54cm has worked well for me (but that was several years ago, when most road bikes were still made with straight tubes and horizontal top tubes.

2. I purchased the frame online.

I figured I was right around the small to medium size for most frames (I’m 5’ 7”, 30” inseam), and that I could adjust the components to make the frame fit as needed.

This Ridley Noah frame has proven to be a bit larger than I expected, despite being a 54cm.


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

wim said:


> What bikers? Are you basing this observation on photos of pro and amateur racers or perhaps on the photos of bikes in bike seller's catalogs and websites? These images have nothing to do with the realities facing most recreational riders.


Well, I think most of us develop some sort of expectation of what a properly set-up bike is supposed to _look _like based on photos we see of pro riders.

Moreover, my Ridley Noah RS (medium) frame comes with a seatpost that has a roughened area (for better clamping) that leaves a good 7-9” of seatpost exposed above the frame. I suspect they expect the saddle to be well above the handlebars (but then again, perhaps they intended that size frame for a 6’ tall rider?)


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Waspinator said:


> Well, I think most of us develop some sort of expectation of what a properly set-up bike is supposed to _look _like based on photos we see of pro riders.


Pro racing drives the sales of high-end bicycles because it fuels the dreams of people who buy high-end bikes. But the reality is that pro racers are from a different universe. To base the length of your seat post exposure on images of bikes ridden by bona fide racers is very unrealistic. I remember a time when cars were given tail fins because people wanted to imagine themselves piloting a fighter plane. Same foolishness.


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

velodog said:


> The most important thing about saddle adjustment is that it must reach up to your ass without hyperextending your knees. Height above bars is secondary.


Very true, trust me I learned that the hard way..


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Waspinator said:


> Well, I think most of us develop some sort of expectation of what a properly set-up bike is supposed to _look _like based on photos we see of pro riders.
> 
> 
> > Speak for yourself. A properly set up bike isn't about looking like a photo of somebody else, it's about fitting the cyclist that's riding the bike.
> ...


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

velodog said:


> Waspinator said:
> 
> 
> > Well, I think most of us develop some sort of expectation of what a properly set-up bike is supposed to _look _like based on photos we see of pro riders.
> ...


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Wow...you are pretty confused about bike fit. For one thing, i can't imagine you fitting on any 54cm frame...but w/o seeing you, who knows. 
There is no one particular "look" that any rider should have when on their bike. It ALL depends on their size, proportions, flexibility, strength...many variables here. So you say you've ridden 54cm frames...that's great. You still need to have _your bike fit to your body_. Just because you hop on a 54 doesn't mean anything about how well it fits you. I have a feeling you may be on the wrong size frame, but there is no way to know for sure w/o seeing you on the bike.


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## Tresdandre (Feb 10, 2013)

MR_GRUMPY said:


> Flexability and use determines how low you bars should be.
> .
> .


This is the answer to your question.


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## pulser955 (Apr 18, 2009)

Waspinator said:


> No. For a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1. In the past, 54cm has worked well for me (but that was several years ago, when most road bikes were still made with straight tubes and horizontal top tubes.
> 
> ...


I to use to ride a 54cm I'm 5'8". When I got my Ridley it was prodeal from the importer. We didn't have any for me to try so I had to do allot of looking at numbers. I ended up calling them and got told to go a size down because the top tubes are long for there size. I got the small and I have never been unhappy with the bike. You should really look in to a fit its the only way your going to get any real feedback on if the bike is the right size.


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## Harley-Dale (Sep 2, 2011)

cxwrench said:


> Wow...you are pretty confused about bike fit. For one thing, i can't imagine you fitting on any 54cm frame...but w/o seeing you, who knows.
> There is no one particular "look" that any rider should have when on their bike. It ALL depends on their size, proportions, flexibility, strength...many variables here. So you say you've ridden 54cm frames...that's great. You still need to have _your bike fit to your body_. Just because you hop on a 54 doesn't mean anything about how well it fits you. I have a feeling you may be on the wrong size frame, but there is no way to know for sure w/o seeing you on the bike.


Good post. I agree. And will ad, the fit on the bike will also be dependent on how you will use it. I setup my tri bike quite differently than my road racing bike. That, of coure, was back in the day when tri bikes were still being developed (80's).

But, the way you will use the bike should guide much of the efforts. Since you already have the bike now, its a matter of modifying the parts to meet your fit needs. If it can.


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## Social Climber (Jan 16, 2013)

cxwrench said:


> Wow...you are pretty confused about bike fit. For one thing, i can't imagine you fitting on any 54cm frame...but w/o seeing you, who knows.
> There is no one particular "look" that any rider should have when on their bike. It ALL depends on their size, proportions, flexibility, strength...many variables here. So you say you've ridden 54cm frames...that's great. You still need to have _your bike fit to your body_. Just because you hop on a 54 doesn't mean anything about how well it fits you. I have a feeling you may be on the wrong size frame, but there is no way to know for sure w/o seeing you on the bike.


+1. Also, every manufacturer's sizing is different. I am 5' 7" (OK, 5' 6.5") and ride a 52cm Trek Madone. A buddy of mine, who is about my height, maybe a bit shorter, was just fitted to a 54 cm Jamis. FWIW my drop to the bars from the top of the seat is about 2 inches, on both my bikes (I also have a very old Trek 1200).


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Waspinator said:


> velodog said:
> 
> 
> > Waspinator said:
> ...


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## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

Waspinator said:


> Well, surely there must be an ideal angle at which one’s back should be when riding with one’s hands on the hoods and on the drops, right?
> So, for example, if one’s arms were very short, the handlebars should be raised (or the saddle lowered) to prevent that person from leaning over too far. Correct?


I'm an old guy with back and neck problems and I'm just returning to cycling so not very flexible yet.

My new bike was well-fitted to me by the dealer and with my hands on the tops of the bars (with my arms locked) my back is at a 45 degree angle. Not very aero but comfortable for me. 
My bars are less than an inch lower than the saddle.
When I reach for the hoods or drops I'm obviously lower and I do ride with my elbows bent.
As I get more flexible I will lower the bars over time.

You talk of lowering the saddle...and don't seem to realize that there is only one perfect spot for your saddle. You have to set that first and then you adjust the stem to get your upper body positioned where you want it.

Edit: From what you've said here and the other thread I still think your new frame is too big for you.
You rode a 54 in a standard frame but the 54 compact frame (you ordered) is too big.
I'm 5'8" and ride a 53/54 standard frame. My new compact Trek is called a 50 because it has a sloping top tube. The dealer didn't have my size so I checked the geo chart and had him order the 50 because it has an effective top tube of 54.6cm. This size turned out to be absolutely perfect for me.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

*handlebars*

the research that I've done say the saddle should be one inch to four inches above the handle bars, mine is about two inches but I adjusted depending on the terrain. I'm 55 soon to be 56 and have two back surgeries with a lumbar fussion but no matter what I do my back tends to hurt once I ride over twenty miles, I stop about every ten miles to stretch and rest my back, this helps me quite a bit. hope this helps. safe and comfortable riding.


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## spdntrxi (Jul 25, 2013)

what Randy is saying is that saddle height is determined first and foremost.. then fore/aft of saddle and so on. There is no relatively wrong or right handlebar position... alot of that is personal preference/riding style. You dont adjust saddle height to fit handlebars.


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## cycmike (May 12, 2011)

I don't think you will receive the answer you are looking for on the internet, unless you use it to search for a good bike fit specialist in your area. There is so much more to fitting a bike than looking at pictures and guessing on the curvature of your back when riding. Go get a proper fit and you'll be very happy, probably. I thought I had a pretty good fit but I didn't know how bad it was until it was fixed.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

Waspinator said:


> the photos suggest what sort of riding stance one is supposed to have


Wrong wrong wrong....they indicate the position (not stance) that is suitable for the individual in the picture.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

OP, no one seems to want to give a straightforward answer. Happily for you, I am prepared to do just that. The answer is ................. 11cm. OK? Listen to Julio.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Waspinator, I'm sure that everything that you want to hear will be found here.

SLAM THAT STEM


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## RichardT (Dec 12, 2010)

Waspinator said:


> Well, I think most of us develop some sort of expectation of what a properly set-up bike is supposed to _look _like based on photos we see of pro riders.


I agree with those who say that set-up on the bikes the pros ride may not work for the average cyclist. It's interesting, though, that even the set-up of pro bikes seems to have changed over time. I just finished reading _Road to Valor_ about Gino Bartali, who won the TDF in 1938 and 1948 (and heroically helped to save Italian Jews during the war, by the way). I was curious about his bike, and I found this page. Piedmont Velo Sports: Gino Bartali

The saddle on his bike was only slightly higher than the top of the handlebars. Compare that to the 2013 TDF bikes. Bikes of the 2013 Tour de France - Bicycling


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## Waspinator (Jul 5, 2013)

Randy99CL said:


> I'm an old guy with back and neck problems and I'm just returning to cycling so not very flexible yet.
> 
> My new bike was well-fitted to me by the dealer and with my hands on the tops of the bars (with my arms locked) my back is at a 45 degree angle. Not very aero but comfortable for me.
> My bars are less than an inch lower than the saddle.
> ...


I don’t intend to raise or lower the saddle above or below the handlebars. You’re quite right (and I’m quite aware) that there is only one correct height for the saddle. The reason I was asking is to get a sense of where my _handlebars _should be relative to the saddle, and this is (to a some extent) a function of the size of the frame. In the case of my frame (which may be a tad big for me), the handlebars are only 3” or so below the top of the saddle.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Waspinator said:


> I don’t intend to raise or lower the saddle above or below the handlebars. You’re quite right (and I’m quite aware) that there is only one correct height for the saddle. The reason I was asking is to get a sense of where my _handlebars _should be relative to the saddle, and this is (to a some extent) a function of the size of the frame. In the case of my frame (which may be a tad big for me), the handlebars are only 3” or so below the top of the saddle.


Ok, at this point I think the odds are even that you're either:
1) a troll
2) ignoring EVERY DAMN POST in this thread
Many people have posted repeatedly that there is NO IDEAL SADDLE-TO-HANDLEBAR DROP. Read that again. Now read it one more time just to make sure it has a good chance of sinking in. 
NO PERSON on this forum can tell you where your handlebars should be in relation to your saddle. NO ONE. A full pro fitting where i work takes 2-3 hours and you wouldn't even get on the bike for the first 30 or so minutes. It is a time consuming process and covers many different things. Stop asking this question...it is not possible for anyone here to give you an answer.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

hey wrench I agree you need to set the height, position of your bike in a way that is comfortable for you. I change the height according to the terrain. I just make sure that my legs have only a slight bend at the knees this way I can angle my feet at 45 degrees when climbing and make sure that my hips are not rocking from side to side. as I make changes to anything I keep notes, make marks on seat post, on saddle, handlebars etc. at times I over due it but its just my nature to study and document things.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

desertbiker92211 said:


> hey wrench I agree you need to set the height, position of your bike in a way that is comfortable for you. I change the height according to the terrain. I just make sure that my legs have only a slight bend at the knees this *way I can angle my feet at 45 degrees when climbing* and make sure that my hips are not rocking from side to side. as I make changes to anything I keep notes, make marks on seat post, on saddle, handlebars etc. at times I over due it but its just my nature to study and document things.


You do what? :skep:


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

Waspinator said:


> I don’t intend to raise or lower the saddle above or below the handlebars. You’re quite right (and I’m quite aware) that there is only one correct height for the saddle. The reason I was asking is to get a sense of where my _handlebars _should be relative to the saddle, and this is (to a some extent) a function of the size of the frame. In the case of my frame (which may be a tad big for me), the handlebars are only 3” or so below the top of the saddle.


That's about where mine are. I haven't touched my stem at all, after setting my saddle height. That's because I bought my bike from my LBS and ordered the correct frame size for me to start with. Where yours should be is where they allow you to ride for more than 2 hours comfortably. If it means adding spacers or flipping the stem up, that's what you should do, despite the snarky remarks that you might hear.

If this is causing you to lose sleep, spend the money on a pro fit, and add what they tell you that you should add.


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## woodys737 (Dec 31, 2005)

Waspinator said:


> I don’t intend to raise or lower the saddle above or below the handlebars. You’re quite right (and I’m quite aware) that there is only one correct height for the saddle. The reason I was asking is to get a sense of where my _handlebars _should be relative to the saddle, and *this is (to a some extent) a function of the size of the frame.* In the case of my frame (which may be a tad big for me), the handlebars are only 3” or so below the top of the saddle.


Bar drop has zero to do with frame size. It has everything to do with rider flexibility, dimensions and preference. One could/should/can set up the exact same saddle height, setback, reach and bar drop on various sized frames. Not knowing you and seeing everything live it is impossible to even WAG where your bars should be. The only advise that is worth a damn at this point is you should be balanced and comfortable on the bike. 



mpre53 said:


> That's about where mine are. I haven't touched my stem at all, after setting my saddle height. That's because I bought my bike from my LBS and ordered the correct frame size for me to start with. Where yours should be is where they allow you to ride for more than 2 hours comfortably. If it means adding spacers or flipping the stem up, that's what you should do, despite the snarky remarks that you might hear.
> 
> If this is causing you to lose sleep, spend the money on a pro fit, and add what they tell you that you should add.


As I stated above, balance and comfort are the most important thing to finding your fit to any bike. A decent fitter will understand this but, it is possible to be comfortable for a fit session and yet not comfortable on longer rides.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

27 inches is the only correct answer.


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## GEARHEAD_ENG (Jan 31, 2010)

I run around 4" above the bars on a 64cm frame. I have long legs, so I don't have much choice.


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## hummina shadeeba (Oct 15, 2009)

It's a valid question and I think you're getting a lot of elitest I-work-for-bike-racers answers. 
My experience has shown a drastic change in stem length n drop. I used to go for a drop but then opted for longer and height. Ive been riding a 54.5 top tube w a 12cm stem n longish reach bars for about 8 years now. Anyone who thinks they can look at you and tell if a bike fits is deluding themselves. Sure there are some obvious cues that something doesn't fit but ur comfort in a chosen application is the only judge. Don't be afraid to swap and try different lengths and angles. Bike fittings aren't worth it in my experience, not that I've gotten one but know too many who have and didn't like it...like the guy above. My advice, is to constantly adjust it and then u won't have to decide..and you'll get good at the Allen wrench

Ps. It is worth having at least an 11cm stem though throughout experimenting. Less than that and it's too twitchy for me and therefore the frames too big. But then I did that for years and it worked
As far as looking like the pictures..people who've been riding for years develop a lot of flexibility


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## woodys737 (Dec 31, 2005)

This is the op's question:


> So, what is the average height of the saddle above the handlebars?


Not sure what you mean by valid question but, it certainly is a question! The answer to that question remains: It depends. MrGrumpy had it right.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

hummina shadeeba said:


> It's a valid question and I think you're getting a lot of *elitest I-work-for-bike-racers answers*.
> My experience has shown a drastic change in stem length n drop. I used to go for a drop but then opted for longer and height. Ive been riding a 54.5 top tube w a 12cm stem n longish reach bars for about 8 years now. Anyone who thinks they can look at you and tell if a bike fits is deluding themselves. Sure there are some obvious cues that something doesn't fit but ur comfort in a chosen application is the only judge. Don't be afraid to swap and try different lengths and angles. Bike fittings aren't worth it in my experience, not that I've gotten one but know too many who have and didn't like it...like the guy above. My advice, is to constantly adjust it and then u won't have to decide..and you'll get good at the Allen wrench
> 
> Ps. It is worth having at least an 11cm stem though throughout experimenting. Less than that and it's too twitchy for me and therefore the frames too big. But then I did that for years and it worked
> As far as looking like the pictures..people who've been riding for years develop a lot of flexibility


I can't help but think you're talking about me here...although i can't understand for the life of me why. I answered that there is no correct answer, that it has everything to do w/ each individuals fit needs. What are you insinuating here? 
Your comments about bike fits being worthless are pretty funny. I'm sure a lot of them are, but if you get a good one it can make all the difference. And since you've never had one...how can you even comment?


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## SBard1985 (May 13, 2012)

How many dogs are in a circle?


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## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

To throw some practical data out there: I'm an older guy with 40 years of back problems. When I bought my new cross bike I got a tall head tube and 10 degree upturned stem and my bars are just about even with the saddle.
When I'm on the trainer and look in the mirror I see that my back is very close to a 45 degree angle when I'm on the tops of the bars. Not very aero but comfortable and that is the angle I like on mountain bikes and motorcycles and when riding in traffic. Obviously, when I go to the hoods or hooks or drops I'm getting lower.

I'm just getting back into cycling after not riding for almost 20 years and as I get more flexible I will lower my bars.

So what's the perfect height? What day is it?


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

hummina shadeeba said:


> Anyone who thinks they can look at you and tell if a bike fits is deluding themselves.


And yet that is exactly the way Eddie B does it. Its how he fit guys like Greg LeMond and others (myself included) so you clearly have no idea what your talking about for that statement and the rest of your nonsense.


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## Lelandjt (Sep 11, 2008)

Waspinator said:


> Someone was nice enough to post a link to Rivendell’s website, who stated that the saddle and the handlebars should be similar in height.


Has a Rivendell ever exceeded 20mph?
You want your bars low enough that when in the drops you have a flat back and the reach and arm bend feel comfortable.

Edit: This thread is about road bikes. Road bikes are meant to allow you to go as fast as you can on a bicycle. If you want to do something other than that you want a touring bike, comfort bike, commuter, ect.


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n (Mar 3, 2012)

All depends on what you wish to do on your bike, how flexible you are and your body geometry ... That is quite a lot of permutations that is ...


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

Lelandjt said:


> Has a Rivendell ever exceeded 20mph?
> You want your bars low enough that when in the drops you have a flat back and the reach and arm bend feel comfortable.
> 
> Edit: This thread is about road bikes. Road bikes are meant to allow you to go as fast as you can on a bicycle. If you want to do something other than that you want a touring bike, comfort bike, commuter, ect.


Lots and lots of riders can't achieve a flat back in the drops position without power loss and discomfort, so that is something of a misleading ideal. Its nice to get that if possible but it's not required.


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## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

bikerjulio said:


> OP, no one seems to want to give a straightforward answer. Happily for you, I am prepared to do just that. The answer is ................. 11cm. OK? Listen to Julio.


This is exactly the type of elitist wannabee workin' in a bike shop BS were talkin’ about. 

11cm is pure poppycock! The answer is 4.33071 inches.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

BostonG said:


> This is exactly the type of elitist wannabee workin' in a bike shop BS were talkin’ about.
> 
> 11cm is pure poppycock! The answer is 4.33071 inches.


I stand corrected. Although little pedantic perhaps. I just hope to OP is able to find a source for that last 0.0001" spacer he's going to need.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Lelandjt said:


> Has a Rivendell ever exceeded 20mph?
> You want your bars low enough that when in the drops you have a flat back and the reach and arm bend feel comfortable.
> 
> Edit: This thread is about road bikes. Road bikes are meant to allow you to go as fast as you can on a bicycle. If you want to do something other than that you want a touring bike, comfort bike, commuter, ect.


So everyone should try to have a flat back? You might want to tell a bunch of pro racers about that...one guy in particular won 7 of them (since taken back as we all know) w/ a pretty rounded back, especially on the tt bike.


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## Warpdatframe (Dec 9, 2012)

cxwrench said:


> So everyone should try to have a flat back? You might want to tell a bunch of pro racers about that...one guy in particular won 7 of them (since taken back as we all know) w/ a pretty rounded back, especially on the tt bike.


 You can have whatever kind of saddle to bar drop you want when you're on a 200k/yr doping plan.


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## hummina shadeeba (Oct 15, 2009)

I don't buy it even if Eddie is selling. To repeat. No one can tell you if a bike fits by looking at you on a bike. I have the same proportions as myself at 15 years ago when I rode a much different fit and wouldn't be nearly comfortable as stretched out as I am now. Unless he can tell my comfort on a bike better than myself I think that's the nonesense. It's like a doctor telling u what's wrong with you without asking. And what about variation within fittings and fitters ideals? There is no ideal that will work with all riders, obviously, and then to add the limitation of simply a fitter going on a visual on which to make their decisions.. It's like trying to tell me what kind of ice cream I like, because everyone likes chocolate, and I'm wearing a red shirt. Even the idea of people liking a fitting is suspect just as everyone who spends over 5 thousand on a pinarelli thinks its the best. And the new bike is always better.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

hummina shadeeba said:


> I don't buy it even if Eddie is selling. To repeat. No one can tell you if a bike fits by looking at you on a bike. I have the same proportions as myself at 15 years ago when I rode a much different fit a........


Whatever


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## vmps (Feb 15, 2013)

Lelandjt said:


> Edit: This thread is about road bikes. Road bikes are meant to allow you to go as fast as you can on a bicycle. If you want to do something other than that you want a touring bike, comfort bike, commuter, ect.


correction: road bikes are those designed for the road. You are describing a racing bike.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Waspinator said:


> No. For a couple of reasons:
> 
> 1. In the past, 54cm has worked well for me (but that was several years ago, when most road bikes were still made with straight tubes and horizontal top tubes.
> 
> ...


Is the Ridley a size small? or medium? For your height, Ridley Noah should be size x-small, which has a 52.5cm effective top tube. If you go size small, then it's a bit big, and if medium, then it's way too big.


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

cxwrench said:


> So everyone should try to have a flat back? You might want to tell a bunch of pro racers about that...one guy in particular won 7 of them (since taken back as we all know) w/ a pretty rounded back, especially on the tt bike.


And one who won the Giro back in 2012.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Originally Posted by Lelandjt 
Edit: This thread is about road bikes. Road bikes are meant to allow you to go as fast as you can on a bicycle. If you want to do something other than that you want a touring bike, comfort bike, commuter, ect.



vmps said:


> correction: road bikes are those designed for the road. You are describing a racing bike.


^ Exactly ^ And this Leland guy apparently works in a bike shop...no wonder so many people don't trust bike shops for anything.


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## siclmn (Feb 7, 2004)

According to all bike adds and most pictures posted on bike forums your seat should be a foot above your bars because it looks cool and makes you look like a pro.
The same mentality exists in the motorcycle sport bike crowd, they bend over till it hurts.
Now what is weird is the Harley crowd, they have their hands two feet above their shoulders, they call them "ape bars"
Go figure.


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## demonrider (Jul 18, 2012)

Saddle height? I think you got it backwards. The saddle should be fixed at the height at which you feel your stroke to be the most efficient and easy; once this height is established, it's stupid to change it. (I'm not talking MTBs)

This thread should have been about handlebars height instead... That depends entirely on the type of road bike in question, but I'm going to assume the OP meant racing machines and not touring rigs. The stems are slammed on my racing bikes and I usually go for a 140mm head-tube and a 120-130mm stem, but it's all very dependent on frame geometry. I arrived at this type of posture after a year of work, evolving my bike fit with a pro-fit shop. 

I don't think it's about "personal preference", it is about your back and the core and whether they can handle said position or not, and also how efficient you are in this position. An aggressive "pro" posture is no good if you can't ride powerfully and comfortably with it.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

demonrider said:


> Saddle height? I think you got it backwards. The saddle should be fixed at the height at which you feel your stroke to be the most efficient and easy; once this height is established, it's stupid to change it. (I'm not talking MTBs)
> 
> This thread should have been about handlebars height instead... That depends entirely on the type of road bike in question, but I'm going to assume the OP meant racing machines and not touring rigs. The stems are slammed on my racing bikes and I usually go for a 140mm head-tube and a 120-130mm stem, but it's all very dependent on frame geometry. I arrived at this type of posture after a year of work, evolving my bike fit with a pro-fit shop.
> 
> I don't think it's about "personal preference", it is about your back and the core and whether they can handle said position or not, and also how efficient you are in this position. An aggressive "pro" posture is no good if you can't ride powerfully and comfortably with it.


I think you're actually describing personal preference! You yourself took a while to figure out what you "preferred". You didn't base your set up on any formula or what others thought. You worked, thought, experimented, listened to advice (pro-fit shop and others) and figured out what you preferred for your type of riding.

We all do the same thing (or should). Personal preference ftw!


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## Favorit (Aug 13, 2012)

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/TBY08FTbH3I/AAAAAAAAPEI/H4m32vJI_GA/s400/barends.jpg


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Favorit said:


> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/TBY08FTbH3I/AAAAAAAAPEI/H4m32vJI_GA/s400/barends.jpg


Thems some epic antlers...great shot.


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## BruceBrown (Mar 20, 2011)

ph0enix said:


> 27 inches is the only correct answer.


Some like their bars above the saddle...

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9382608309/" title="BigWheeledRider1800's by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/9382608309_73f087e1c8_c.jpg" width="450" height="800" alt="BigWheeledRider1800's"></a>


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## Lelandjt (Sep 11, 2008)

^I used to have one of those in high school and would ride it all over town. They're actually really easy to ride, mount, and dismount. Track stands at stoplights were trickier than normal bikes. It was surprisingly easy to lift the rear wheel off the ground and ride nose-wheelies a considerable distance. I need to get another one.


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