# 2011 C59 Italia non Di2 ready



## pablotn (Oct 11, 2008)

Hey guys,

I currently have a 2011 C59 which I purchased with standard mech routing and I have been recently considering going Di2 9070 electric.

It looks like it will be relatively painless from a installation perspective, and it does appear that there will be some external routing required (BB opening to front mech, and BB opening to rear mech) . Luckily the C59 comes with bits in place, even on the mech version, which will allow for some easy internal routing.

I am concerned about a couple of areas, more aesthetic than anything else. I have been doing some combing of the internets, youtubes, etc to find some ideas on how to address some specific areas and wanted to see if you guys would have any stories/experiences to share. Looking obviously for specific C59 experiences since it does have its own nuances (internal downtube routing, BB - tube openings, BB opening underneath). I have seen some homegrown installations on other mech frames using surface mounted techniques.

As for moving away from the mech version I am currently on 7900 mech and for the most part have been satisfied. Shifters throws for the front mech is one of the most annoying aspects of the group, and lack of trim. And I have buddies who would be considered more traditionalists who have nothing but great things to share about their transition to electronic. So I am somewhat already hooked.

Thanks for the help,

Paul


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## Dac86 (Jul 31, 2012)

Hello
I am currently considering this upgrade to my non di2 c59. The only issue I see for making it internal is how to get the main cable from the front into the down tube? Dremmel/drill the existing mechanical cable hole to 7mm?
Also how would you route the cable to the rear deralieur? This could be hidden pretty well just under the chain stay. 

D


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## pablotn (Oct 11, 2008)

Hey D,

>>*The only issue I see for making it internal is how to get the main cable from the front into the down tube?*<<

So, does your C59 not have internal wiring within the downtube for rear and front mech cabling? The C59 BB also has a little fairing on the bottom for the exits for the front and rear cabling and onto the cable guide. To me this is the least of the challenges as running those within the downtube should be good to go. Aesthetically I am trying to figure how to cover the blank downtube hole since only one will be necessary to cable to the lower junction box.

As for the rear mech I am going to run it on the bottom of the the drive side chainstay and use helicopter tape to secure, as you suggest. Those chainstays are huge and offer a pretty good flat surface to secure onto. I am going to try and use the existing cable stay for the electrical wire and "MAY" have to use a single cable tie to secure to the seatstay/chainstay cluster. Front mech might be more of a challenge, but routing up from the bottom and running up to the mech braze on along the seattube and securing with helicopter tape seems to be the only option.

The BB area seems to have "PLENTY" of internal space for junction box, extra cabling, etc....

Hopefully I understood all of your points and ideas.

Paul


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## Dac86 (Jul 31, 2012)

Hi
Agreed with your points front and rear mechs can be made neat enough by exiting the down tube fairing and hiding carefully. Yes my mechanical cables run internally but the hole for the di2 cable would need to be bigger (7mm?). This can be drilled out carefully but as you say on one side you/I will be left with a hole in the frame. 
Will this be that noticeable? A small plastic bung maybe? I had to find a similar infill for the top tube of my s5 running di2. 
Anyway the guy in my lbs is happy to drill away!
Dave


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## pablotn (Oct 11, 2008)

Hey D,

You are right and good point on the entry holes. They will need to be dremelled out and widened in order for the endpoint of the cable to passthrough. I believe you are right that this can be done relatively easily, and like you will be having the work done by my LBS.
View attachment 298909


I have seen these around the internets, but cannot find out who has them. I know the DI2 kit comes with grommets for the holes and to dress out the cable coming into the holes.
View attachment 298910


Either that or I have also heard of folks using silicone to fill the hole.

Maybe others can chime in with some ideas?

Paul


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## Dac86 (Jul 31, 2012)

It's a tough call drilling out a frame, I need to lose the dura ace 7900 as it's front shift is crap! Could go 6800 but di2 works great for me. 
Starting to wonder if it would be better to just get a di2 frame.....


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## Trek_5200 (Apr 21, 2013)

Dac86 said:


> It's a tough call drilling out a frame, I need to lose the dura ace 7900 as it's front shift is crap! Could go 6800 but di2 works great for me.
> Starting to wonder if it would be better to just get a di2 frame.....


Unless EPS is something you've decided you must have. I'd switch to Dura Ace 9000 or 6800. The opinions seem to be that it's far superior to 7900. I have 6800 which supposedly is similar, and I'm very happy with it. A EPS ready c-59 or c-60 is going to run at least 5K. Hardly seems worth it to me, of course you could buy a cheaper frame, but then you'd arguably be giving up ride quality(I'm sure the Colnago haters will have a retort here)


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## Dac86 (Jul 31, 2012)

Trek_5200 said:


> Unless EPS is something you've decided you must have. I'd switch to Dura Ace 9000 or 6800. The opinions seem to be that it's far superior to 7900. I have 6800 which supposedly is similar, and I'm very happy with it. A EPS ready c-59 or c-60 is going to run at least 5K. Hardly seems worth it to me, of course you could buy a cheaper frame, but then you'd arguably be giving up ride quality(I'm sure the Colnago haters will have a retort here)


Yeah It's hard to justify di2 but it works great and I love a gadget!
I already have the frame which I picked up for a good price so I'm just gonna drill it out and go for it.


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## pablotn (Oct 11, 2008)

Hey D,

Let us know how everything goes with your build up.

Paul


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## cendres (Dec 18, 2002)

Dac86 said:


> Yeah It's hard to justify di2 but it works great and I love a gadget!
> I already have the frame which I picked up for a good price so I'm just gonna drill it out and go for it.


Did you go through with this? I'd love to see some photos of the modified areas and harness routing. Thanks!


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Dac86 said:


> Hello
> I am currently considering this upgrade to my non di2 c59. The only issue I see for making it internal is how to get the main cable from the front into the down tube? Dremmel/drill the existing mechanical cable hole to 7mm?
> Also how would you route the cable to the rear deralieur? This could be hidden pretty well just under the chain stay. D


The electrical wire is much smaller in diameter than a cable housing, so you would actually need a rubber grommet to make the hole smaller. Shimano provides them in kits and you can buy them as well. They are used wherever the wire passes thru the frame, 3 places.


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