# New to me 1988 Trek 520



## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

I recently picked up an '88 Trek 520 touring bike. Went for a 25mi ride yesterday and have to say that she is not showing her age at all, smooth as buttah! I however was feeling a bit sore having been exclusively a MTB rider for the last 5 years (full sus makes for a smooth ride). 

I'm thinking that I would like to put wider bars on the 520 but I haven't messed with anything this old for quite awhile. Can anyone tell me the bar size I would need to look for? I'm almost certain that it's a 25.4mm bar with does limit my choices especially in a wider (46cm) bar, 26mm gets me more options but I don't think it would fit the stem, or would it?

If anyone has a similar vintage 520 and has done some upgrades let me know what you went with. 

Also looking for suggestions on tires, I have 27" wheels and that too limits my choices but there is some choice. I'm riding paved trails and will be doing a day of RAGBRAI this year, 75mi day, currently the bike seems to be on original tires? That can't be right though 23yr old tires would be total crap. 

Thanks, 
RCook


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## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

Would love to see some pics.
My first road bike was a steel Trek in '86. It was stolen in '91.
If I ever run across the correct size / color / condition it will be mine once again.


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## e39540is (Apr 10, 2009)

You can buy a different stem for 26mm bars. If you have a bike shop around that works on older bikes, they should have one, or there is always ebay. Is your headset threaded, or threadless? There are also stems made that are for 1" steerer, but have four bolts, and the end cap comes off, so you can use the new style fat bars.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Went to the LBS last night, after much reading here and other places on the interwebs I decided to convert the quill stem to a threadless stem. The LBS had the converter and at a good price as well. I had a stem from my MTB at home so then we started looking at the 'takeoff' pile of replaced and set aside bars. We couldn't find one that was wide enough so the LBS guy who is also my size (big) suggested that he uses an FSA 'wing' bar because it has a similar hand grip like the MTB grips we both use, Ergon GP1. 

So new bar ordered should have it this week, then to convert the stem over which should be easy and I should be in business.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Went to the LBS last night, after much reading here and other places on the interwebs I decided to convert the quill stem to a threadless stem. The LBS had the converter and at a good price as well. I had a stem from my MTB at home so then we started looking at the 'takeoff' pile of replaced and set aside bars. We couldn't find one that was wide enough so the LBS guy who is also my size (big) suggested that he uses an FSA 'wing' bar because it has a similar hand grip like the MTB grips we both use, Ergon GP1. 

So new bar ordered should have it this week, then to convert the stem over which should be easy and I should be in business.


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## logbiter (Sep 14, 2005)

Nice bike, where's the pics?! 
For the retro/classic folks, it's kind of a shame to convert it to threadless stem, it kind of ruins the esthetic, ya know :blush2: I have a '90 750 ("multi track") as my commuter/path bike. Same geometry as the 520 from what I understand, just bigger tubes/lugs for offroad use. The stem should be 26.0, which was the more common road standard before the whole OS/31.8 came along.

Tires- still a decent selection of 27" out there. Wider is better for comfort on long rides/touring. On the cheap, I've seen them at big box stores like target/walmart. I got some panaracer pasela tourguard's in 27x1 1/8" or 1.25" for a friend online for pretty cheap. You could well have the original tires on the bike, depending on how/where it was stored, they might not look bad. Best to replace tubes n tires though, if they are indeed that old!

I haven't used a "wing" bar, hope it works out for ya! 
Coming from a mtb backround, like I did as well, I was having a hard time with 1-narrow bars & 2-lack of flare in the hoods (it kills my wrists). I currently use the on-one midge which is an "offroad" drop bar with lots of flare (46 width). There's a wide selection out there these days of these offroad & cross bars with some flare. Just something to consider.

here's a link to a pic of my 750, a few yrs old, but pretty much what it looks like now, after I did a basic rattlecan paint job on her. It'd been spraybombed gold when I acquired it at auction. http://gallery.roadbikereview.com/showphoto.php/photo/25578


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Ok pics:



















I understand the desire to keep the bike as stock as possible and a part of me does feel like I should try but ultimately cost and comfort are a priority. I'll be saving all the original parts if I ever decide to return to stock, if indeed it's running stock gear now. 

So from the pics you can see I've added fenders, they are meant for a modern 700c bike which explains the improper fit. I'll probably trim the stays and get them to fit better this weekend. 

Shifters have the friction/index switch which is nice, it shifts very well and rides so smooth. I decided to see what she would do and without hammering but still pedaling hard 21mph consistently was doable. Top gear on a nice smooth flat trail pedaling an smooth but easy cadence I could ride 17-18mph all day long, so much easier than the MTB  

I did find this page where a guy is in the process of a complete rebuild of a 520 and after reading his progress I'm very interested in the idea of a strip down, sandblasting and respray. Maybe this winter.


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## Lotophage (Feb 19, 2011)

Paselas come in 27" . They're cheap, they ride well and they're close to bulletproof. 

as for 25.4 bars, here's some- http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=635

Look at the Nitto classic road bars- they come in a 45.

These are wide as hell -http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pulsion-Alloy-Gary-2-Handlebar/dp/B0037NCDG6 but nice- I've got a set on my drop-bar MTB. The gary2 model has a lot less flare than the originals. They work well with traditional brake levers.


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## Reynolds531 (Nov 8, 2002)

rcook said:


> I'm very interested in the idea of a strip down, sandblasting and respray. Maybe this winter.


 I think that your bike is too nice to strip and respray. The paint looks pretty good, and a touring bike should have a few nicks and scratches. I would align the fenders better, though.

I'd vote for a quill stem and drop bars--aesthetic for the stem, aesthetic and function for the bars. You should give yourself a chance to get used to drop bars. It's a disadvantge on the road to have really wide bars and be spread out like a parachute. 4 hand positions on drop bars are really nice.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Reynolds531 said:


> I think that your bike is too nice to strip and respray. The paint looks pretty good, and a touring bike should have a few nicks and scratches. I would align the fenders better, though.


I'll be honest it likely will never happen just a dream really. What few dings and nicks there are aren't that bad. 



Reynolds531 said:


> I'd vote for a quill stem and drop bars--aesthetic for the stem, aesthetic and function for the bars. You should give yourself a chance to get used to drop bars. It's a disadvantge on the road to have really wide bars and be spread out like a parachute. 4 hand positions on drop bars are really nice.


I'll still be getting drop bars just in the newer size and with a flat on the top bar instead of full round.


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## Lotophage (Feb 19, 2011)

rcook said:


> I'll be honest it likely will never happen just a dream really. What few dings and nicks there are aren't that bad.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll still be getting drop bars just in the newer size and with a flat on the top bar instead of full round.


Before you decide to get flat top bars, try this- raise the stem a bit and tilt the bars back so you end up with less of a downsloping ramp on top of the hoods. 

It'll look goofy but if it's more comfortable, you'll know that all you really need is a wider set of bars with a less pronounced ramp.


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## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

The fenders will fit fine. ALl you need to do is loosen up and adjust the silver rods at the back. SOme of the rod should be above the nut, in fact as much as an inch can be above the nut so that the fender then follows the shape of the wheel. 

ALl in all that is a great looking bike. But one thing, if those are original brake pads you might want to consider replacing them. Once pads get that old, they get pretty hard and not as good stopping. 

What is that, a 62 cm? THat bike is huge.   

BILL


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

crossracer said:


> The fenders will fit fine. ALl you need to do is loosen up and adjust the silver rods at the back. SOme of the rod should be above the nut, in fact as much as an inch can be above the nut so that the fender then follows the shape of the wheel.
> 
> ALl in all that is a great looking bike. But one thing, if those are original brake pads you might want to consider replacing them. Once pads get that old, they get pretty hard and not as good stopping.
> 
> ...


The fender 'spokes' have these black caps to, I assume, save me from cutting myself and suing SKS. I just need to extend the spokes and cut them to the proper length but I've been lazy  

Pad replacement is imminent. 

Not sure on the size, no indication I can see but I'm 6'3" with a 32" inseam according to Levi and I *barely* clear the top bar when I straddle it. My biggest issue when looking for a used bike was finding a frame big enough and I think I managed to actually get one that might be *too* large


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## MadRoc92 (Mar 24, 2004)

Sweet ride. My dad has a '92 or '93 -- first year in green and last (or one of the last) with a lugged frame. As long as Trek still sells the 520 they haven't lost touch with their roots.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks. I've now put about 100mi on it since I bought it and I'm more and more impressed each time. I need to put up new pics but I swapped out bars and saddle which has made a huge difference in comfort, I also added toe clips without the straps until I get clipped pedals. 

The only issue I'm having is that I'm blowing tubes, about once every 25mi I blow a tube and it's been it a different place each time. I think it's time for new shoes as these seem to be a bit worn out.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks. I've now put about 100mi on it since I bought it and I'm more and more impressed each time. I need to put up new pics but I swapped out bars and saddle which has made a huge difference in comfort, I also added toe clips without the straps until I get clipped pedals. 

The only issue I'm having is that I'm blowing tubes, about once every 25mi I blow a tube and it's been it a different place each time. I think it's time for new shoes as these seem to be a bit worn out.


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## nickillus (May 3, 2006)

If it's not glass or nails, I usually find the culprit to be rim tape either being disheveled or not wide enough. Just my experience with unexplainable flats.


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## rcook (Mar 15, 2011)

nickillus said:


> If it's not glass or nails, I usually find the culprit to be rim tape either being disheveled or not wide enough. Just my experience with unexplainable flats.


I replaced the rim tape after the first flat and I agree with you except that the punctures are on the tire side not rim side. I honestly can't say how old the tires are but they aren't new, that's for sure. I'm thinking that a new set of tires should not only improve puncture resistance but also performance. 

Suggestions for a 27" tire?


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## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

Gatorskins came in 27 inches last I checked. Good tires.


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