# 2009 Roubaix Expert SL Triple



## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

8/30/08 – Ordered 61cm 2009 Roubaix Expert SL triple. Expect delivery 9/10/08 and fitting 9/11/08.
<O</O
This is my first road bike in many, many years. I used to ride mountain bike on trails initially, then slowly migrated to roads mostly. Liked flexibility and versatility of mountain bike. Stopped riding completely for two or three years because of work ( simply no time ). <O</O
<O</O
Reason for purchasing Road bike:<O</O
a. health reasons ( need to exercise, don’t like stair masters, tread-mills & need to balance life )<O</O
b. I’ll continue to go gym, use stair-masters, tread-mills, etc… but not nearly as much<O</O
c. will drastically reduce time off street routes previously used to ride with mountain bike<O</O
d. didn’t like being passed by so many road bikes ( I’ll chase them down now )<O</O
e. more suitable and fun when using on road ( mountain bike ok, but not nearly as efficient )<O</O
<O</O
Reason for purchasing Specialized Roubaix Expert SL triple:<O</O
a. brand name and quality ( my mountain bike is specialized )<O</O
b. history, specialized dealer has taken care of me in past<O</O
c. wanted comfortable road bike ( carbon with zerts inserts )<O</O
d. Roubaix was designed to ride in Paris Roubaix which has lots of cobble stones<O</O
( do search, on Paris Roubaix. I seen tour de france and those roads are horrible )<O</O
e. 9r frame same as that used in pro, etc… only S-Works is higher with 11r or 10r<O</O
f. triple for steep hills until I’m stronger rider, then maybe I’ll switch over to compact<O</O
g. always wanted a good bike, but never felt comfortable spending this much.<O</O
h. well, im getting up in years and its now or never<O</O


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

This is the first " purely road " bike i have ever purchased. All bikes in past have been hybrids, mountain, etc...

I'm very excited and cannot wait until i get it.

I will post pictures which i hope will do justice to how good this bike really looks.

Three biggest purchases i'm researching on web now are:
a. Hitch Rack - Hanging vs Wheel Tray with frame contact, vs pure Wheel Tray no frame contact
b. Computer Garmin 705 GPS, and everything else
c. Shoes and quick release pedals


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## CarlB (Aug 26, 2008)

Congrats on the new bike. I look forward to hearing more and seeing pics.

I was planning the exact same thing, and for many of the same reasons. Like tired of my MB not being able to catch road bikes. Want the better frame than the Comp offers, and for sure the better wheels. 

I liked the look of the Triple's blue paint better then the white, but I have seen neither. Glad to hear your positive comments. Look forward to seeing your pics.

About 2 weeks ago my LBS thought availability was late Sept so I figured I would wait until spring and not have $4k hanging in the garage. I'm in North IL so the season ends in October. 

I have been considering gearing choices using Sheldon Brown's caluculator. I too was going for the triple as I don't feel that strong. The shipping gearing 30/39/52 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27 goes from 30 to 117 inches. I don't like the big jumps above 21. I did ride a demo SL2 a few weeks ago from the Test the Best truck.

Based on my current ride 39/53 x 13-14-15-16-17-19-21 I would say my sweet spot on the flats was 39x16 or x17 about 61 to 64 inches. The most I can push hard is about 53x16=87 inches. The low 39x21=49 inches is not low enough.

I think I will change the back to 14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-23-25 which will give me a range of 32 to 98 inches and very smooth increases that I like. The second choice is 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,23,25 which has a 105 inch max, but I don't see the need to go that much faster downhill. At a cost of about $100 it's not a big expense.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

CarlB,

*Concerning color*

I think there's been a bit of confusion which seems to originate from previous year's selection and info on BikePedia's web page link below:

http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2009&Brand=Specialized&Model=Roubaix+Expert+SL+C2&Type=bike

If link above doesn't work, you can search for following on google and look for bikepedia
2009 Specialized Roubaix Expert SL C2

When i orded my 2009, back on 8/30/08, the only colors available were:
<O</O
1) WHITE - 61cm and smaller<O</O
2) Carbon/Red - 64cm only

<O</O
<O</OI called customer service at specialized in Morgan Hill, Ca to confirm. Based on information they had, 2009 Roubaix Expert Triple came in white only. Not sure about Compact. The only 2009 catalogs available are those at bike shops. Nothing available online yet.

I was very skeptical about getting an all white bike as i thought it would be a bit bland / boring; however, the bike looks great:

a. Pearl White / Metal flake color ( looks really good )<O</O
b. Black Lettering / Decals ( lots of lettering / details )<O</O
c. Dark Gray / Bluish annodized Brakes, Cranks, Deraileurs, Hubs & Rims

*Concerning Weather*

I had similar concerns, will i be able to ride seeing fall / winter is coming. Weather here, for most part, is sunny year around and even when it rains, it's only for few days and snow is in hills only.

*Need / Urgency for riding:*

Perhaps my ambition and desire to get serious about riding again may be a bit exaggerated, but i'm going to take stab at it...

As mentioned in previous post, spend tons of hours working ( actual work, studying or researching something related to work). Consequently, mobility and physical exercise suffers as one is sitting 99% of time. Stairmasters, Treadmills, stationary bikes, etc... are very boring for me after more than 20/30 minutes. In contrast, i enjoy riding 1/2/3 hours at a time.

*Bike Calculator*

Thanks for sharing info from Sheldon Brown's calculator. Someone at bike store mentioned there was a calculator to show overlapping gear ratios; however, i wasn't sure what to look for.


Finally, thanks for taking time to stop by and share


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## CarlB (Aug 26, 2008)

> a. Hitch Rack - Hanging vs Wheel Tray with frame contact, vs pure Wheel Tray no frame contact

Was at REI and I liked the Yakima King Joe's big triangular pads better then the Thule. Some negative comments at rei.com about Yak, some lost bikes. Less negative for Thule, none for scratching car. Guess I'll go back to the store and closely examine the bike tie downs. Scary to have $1000's in bikes on a $100 rack. Need more research.

> b. Computer Garmin 705 GPS, and everything else

Thought about it, but did not want to be taking time messing with technology instead of riding (and I'm a computer programmer). A Cateye for speed and distance is enough. I mainly ride for time. Also a Sigma Sport PC15 HRM is a deal with lots of features. I find it very helpful to monitor effort. To see calories burned is encouraging. I would wait until the bike Garmin's have WAAS so they are much more accurate. Foretrex has it.

> c. Shoes and quick release pedals

Look forward to hearing your choices, there's so many. I did get to test Specialized SWorks $300 shoes. It had this little knob that tighted all the laces. I liked it. Still had 3 toes on right foot asleep.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

See following post for comments on racks:
*Kuat Hitch Rack ( The Alpha )* 
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?p=1738611#poststop


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Very excited about getting Garmin. Learning curve should be quick, but benefits are numerous ( at least for me )...

Color GPS Maps:
*abilility to see surroundings when in an unfamiliar area
*turn by turn directions will allow me to enjoy and concentrate on ride, not where am i and when is next turn, etc...

Customizable computer screen shows up to eight different data fields. The user may customize the display for the size and placement of the data. ( 2 cols x 4 rows )
R:C = Row:Col
1:1 & 1:2 - Total Time & Elapse time
2:1 & 2:2 - Current Distance & Remaining Distance
3:1 & 3:2 - Speed & Cadence
4:1 & 4:2 - Heart Beat & Calories
Or various other configurations / options

Ability to race against myself and previous rides:
Courses let you race against a previously recorded workout, so you can compare your current and past performances over the same ride.


Virtual Partner lets you race a virtual competitor over a specified distance and speed.

Program alerts to sound if the user strays outside the range of speed, heart rate or cadence values. Alerts can also indicate when a set amount of time or distance has passed. 

Auto Lap automatically starts a new lap each time you pass a specified location or travel a preset distance

POI ( Point of Interest ): ability to locate bathrooms, gas stations, restuarants, etc... when simply roaming / riding leisurely in new city or area

And numerous other features, options and gadgets i like ( ability to upload all that info to laptop and analyze, plan and schedule trips is simply amazing )... I'm also looking to joining community which will allow me to download other cyclist routes and compare my progress against theirs... Imagine being able to download a route from someone else and having gps alert you when you're falling behind or are ahead of person's route you downloaded... I think that is simply awesome... !!!

http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-010-00555-40-Edge-705-Navigator/dp/B000VRHPS2

Total Cost:
~$450 - Garmin 705 version -30
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=160&pID=10885

~$100 - Garmin North American NT DVD ( for pc and garmin micro SD )
http://www8.garmin.com/cartography/mapSource/citynavnt.jsp

Again, once learning curve is over, this is a tool that i think will be very useful...

Plus device can be used in car, hiking, etc...


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Very coincidentally, I just ordered a 61cm Specialized Roubaix Expert SL Triple yesterday myself. I was told by my LBS that Specialized said they were out of stock, and was given an early October timeframe.

BikePedia has it wrong on the colors. The Roubaix Expert SL comes only in carbon/white up to 61cm, with the 64cm coming only in carbon/red. This is true for both the triple and the compact. 

I thought the photos of the carbon/white bike looked great, sort of timeless, and am really glad to hear it looks great in real life as well. 

I'm really looking forward to it. I ride every day. I have a route around some finished biketrails I can access from my house that covers 12.5 miles. I work from home and take an hour at lunch to ride my route, and then sometime take another run late afternoon. Thouugh I'm a beginner, a novice, I've been logging about 125 miles a week. I'm in very good shape, but am still about ten pounds heavier than I'd like to be. Since switching from a daily gym workout to biking I've lost five pounds. Amazing how biking burns the calories!


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Thought I'd add, having reread the comments, that I have triple currently and almost never use the low gear ring. I still went for the triple rather than the compact in the new Roubaix SL because the 52/39/30 configuration is very flexible. I'm not so big on the compacts, and if I were to buy a compact I'd probably switch it to a 53/39. It just doesn't make sense to me to give up that high gear. Am I missing something?


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GLBorchert,

Guess i got lucky. When they checked on Sat 8/30, there were two bikes back east in warehouse. Guess i got one of them. I should receive my next Wed/Thu 9/10 or 9/11.

How fortunate you are to be able to work from home and have time to ride. I'm definitely going to try and making riding a priority. Put in 8/9 hours work, go for ride, then continue working / studying remainder of evening.

What type of bike are you riding now?

I'm really excited as I always wanted a " really " good road bike, but until now could never justify it. And as mentioned earlier, it loooooks so good...

You may want to call another bike shop in your area to double check. I've discovered that some stores already have stock and simply haven't put bikes together yet.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Roubaix 2009:

I'm OK with waiting. The shop I'm going through is giving me a good price, and they're the largest Specialized dealer in North Texas. The ETA of my bike may change, and it might come in earlier.

Right now I'm riding a Specialized Sirrus - a hybrid or comfort bike. It's been a great bike for me, a great starter bike. Though it wasn't expensive, I've been impressed with the build quality. I knew when I bought it that I'd probably outgrow it quickly, and I have. I joined up with a group of guys on road bikes the other day, and even though I was pumping as many RPMs as they were, I could barely keep up. Then, they killed me on the climbs.

I plan on keeping my Sirrus for friends and family to use, as a way of encouraging some of my neighbors to give cycling a try. 

I'm curious what other bikes you looked at, and why you settled on the Roubaix. For me, I looked at dozens of bikes, everything from Calnago to Cannondale to Trek to Giant to Seven to Blue to Felt to Cervelo, plus some others that don't come to mind at the moment, and decided that the Roubaix Expert was a great next step for me compared to the others. Comfort was a big factor in my choice, but I didn't want to give up too much on the racing end as I am training to participate in some organized race and tour events. I think that the Roubaix Expert gives a lot of bang-for-the-buck. 

I wish I could afford a Colnago, as there's a great Colnago dealer just two miles from my house. But, he's quoting me $7,000 to $8,000 range minimum, and I'm afraid my wife would blow a cork. Also, as a beginner, I think it would be sort of embarrasing to ride around on something like a Colnago. I figure I've got some learning to do before I'll really know how to make use of a real high end bike, and I also know that experience will lead me to better know exactly what I want in a bike like that. I know, though, that there's a Colnago somewhere in my future. With my new Roubaix, that will be at least three years down the road.

So - I'm pumped - and looking forward to my new arrival.

I am also curious as to why you'd want a GPS on a bicycle?? I've got a Cateye wireless on my Sirrus, and I can't imagine I'd need anything more than a good bike computer with cadence and maybe pulse capability. GPS strikes me as overkill, but then I've got GPS capability on my Blackberry, and I carry that with me wherever I go.

On the pedals - I went the Shimano Ultegra route, and for me the jury's still out. I switched from the float to the no-float cleats, and even at the lightest setting they still don't release as easily as I'd like them to. I'm trying to get used to them, but am looking at other options. I'm curious to know what others use and like.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Roubaix 2009:

Specifically on the pedals, I'm looking at Speedplay Light Action or Zero models. Also, at the Time, BeBop an Crank Bros. I want something stable but that releases quickly, easily and reliably.

I'd appreciate anyone's input.

Thanks.


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## sage1 (Dec 31, 2005)

My LBS sells a lot of the Speedplay pedals. They've recommended the light action for me but I'm leaning toward the Shimano Ultegra pedal (Dura-Ace too many $). I haven't had the opportunity to try either so for those that have I'd like to hear what you think.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

I've got the Shimano Ultegra pedals and while they are clearly great quality, I have definitely had some trouble getting them to release as easily as I had hoped. The cleats that come with them allow some foot movement, which was nice, but didn't release very easily, even at the lightest pedal setting. The fixed cleats release a bit better, but you have to get the angle right for your foot/ankle/leg or run the risk of some tendon issues.

The thing you have to get used to as a beginner, and I am a beginner, is that you have to anticipate needing to free your foot from the pedal. It takes a second or two to release - it is not instantaneous on the Shimano design. 

I've read the Speedplay Light Action is much more instantaneous, but I've also read that some people like a pedal with a broader base like the Shimano. 

It may just be needing to adjust to the Shimano's, I don't know. I've got 150 miles on mine, and for me the jury is out.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

sage1 said:


> My LBS sells a lot of the Speedplay pedals. They've recommended the light action for me but I'm leaning toward the Shimano Ultegra pedal (Dura-Ace too many $). I haven't had the opportunity to try either so for those that have I'd like to hear what you think.


I can't offer an opinion on the Speedplay's, but I've used Shimano's since 1990 with no problems. I currently use the Ultegra PD-6620's (with float) and Spec Elite road shoes. I have two problematic knees, but they feel best when I'm riding my bike!

To those that call themselves beginners and think the Shimano's are difficult to release, I've got one word for you. Practice.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> They've recommended the light action for me


Keep in mind that the Light Action pedals have unrestricted free float, where the range of float on the Zeros is adjustable from 0-15 degrees. For me, a big difference. I couldn't use the Light Actions. It might not matter to you.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

GLBorchert said:


> I've got the Shimano Ultegra pedals and while they are clearly great quality, I have definitely had some trouble getting them to release as easily as I had hoped. The cleats that come with them allow some foot movement, which was nice, but didn't release very easily, even at the lightest pedal setting. The fixed cleats release a bit better, but you have to get the angle right for your foot/ankle/leg or run the risk of some tendon issues.
> 
> The thing you have to get used to as a beginner, and I am a beginner, is that you have to anticipate needing to free your foot from the pedal. It takes a second or two to release - it is not instantaneous on the Shimano design.
> 
> ...



I believe the release tension is 100% adjustable. I know you wrote that the release tension was at it's lightest setting...it's just weird, my Shimano SPD pedals have the easiest release of all my different shoe and pedal combinations!


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

PaulRivers said:


> I believe the release tension is 100% adjustable. I know you wrote that the release tension was at it's lightest setting...it's just weird, my Shimano SPD pedals have the easiest release of all my different shoe and pedal combinations!


OK - Thanks. I'll play with it some more. I have the tension adjusted so that the little indicator is all the way to the top. 

My concern is that I crashed once, nothing major, but a person literally popped out in front of me rounding a hidden corner, and I couldn't get my foot off the pedal in time to get it down. It was like slow motion - I knew I was going to crash but couldn't do anything about it. I braked, tried to free my foot, and then fell over. There was no major damage, mostly just my bruised ego, but it did make me more cautious and aware of the pedals.

I'm told that everyone has had crashes. Hopefully it will be a long time before I have another one.

I'll work with it more today, and see if I can make it easier. It's also possible it could have something to do with the shoes - I'm wearing some Diadoras that are sort of wide but do strap down tight. I ignored the information on the product information that came with the pedals that said you needed to wear Shimano shoes or the pedals might not work right. Seemed like a sales pitch.

Anyway - thanks.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I may be mistaken and I don't want to readjust my pedals to test the theory, but if you have your pedals set so the indicator is at the top, I believe that's the MAX setting. You want to adjust _down_ to a lower setting - for easier release.

As far as what brand of shoes work best, I agree with you - Shimano's plugging for cyclists to use their products.

Here's my experience with crashes. They happen. Period. My last one was when dog ran out from the side and nailed my front fork. I didn't even have time to reach for the brakes. Bikes aren't cars and no components (save for helmets) are designed for crashes. Brakes, pedals, nothing. 

There's a saying about cyclists. _There are those who have crashed, and there are those that will_. It's proved accurate in my experiences!


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

PJ352 said:


> I may be mistaken and I don't want to readjust my pedals to test the theory, but if you have your pedals set so the indicator is at the top, I believe that's the MAX setting. You want to adjust _down_ to a lower setting - for easier release....


I'd suggest trying it out - however you have them adjusted, try putting it completely the opposite way and see if it's looser.  My shoes come off my clips like butter - I mean, seriously, if I was one of those racer/sprinter types I'd definitely have to *tighten* them because I'd be afraid they'd slip off to easily if I was really slamming on the pedals.

I definitely agree that you don't want them tightened to much - one of the reasons I like mine rather loose.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Curious to know how the bike is working for you? Any surprises? I'm also curious on the sizing on the 61cm. I'm 6'2", 195 pounds, large frame, with fairly long arms. I wear a 36-37 shirt sleeve length. The 60cm top tube length on the bike has had me wondering a bit. I haven't ridden a Roubaix 61, but did ride a Roubaix 58 and thought I could go a bit bigger. The standover of 85cm is not a problem for me either. I've got nearly an inch from there, and then that depends on where they actually measure standover on the sloping top tube.

Curious to know your road report.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

This is really a great forum. Lot of new, exciting and valuable information.

Concerning Bike:
LBS gave me fedex tracking # and i'm monitoring progress, should be here tue 9/9

I'm 6'3" and also have long arms. 61cm Roubaix Elite seemed ok when test riding so i suspect 61cm Expert will be fine.

LBS where bike is purchased has full fitting setup with videos, etc... to ensure bike is tuned to me and my body geometry... so i feel pretty confident everything will be ok. They sized me up on 61cm Elite 08 before ordering 09 Expert

Concerning pedals:
I've requested cheapo plastic pedals, without toe clips, be installed initally until i get comfortable with bike and break in seat. I haven't riden for awhile and i suspect it'll take couple of weeks to get used to the hard seat.

I've looked at both pedals mentioned in this thread and i was leaning towards the speedplay light action initally; however, i'm considering Ultegra SL PD-6620G's . The Ultegra's color blends well with color scheme of components already on bike, appear to be better quality and more rigid / appropriate once i become more experienced and can ride harder. Speedplay also seem good because there's plenty of float ( uninhibited motion ).

Although i don't have any problems with my knees, i don't want to develop any issues either...

Speedplay specificially states:
http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.lightaction
*15 DEGREE RANGE OF NON SPRING-RECENTERED FREE FLOAT*: Free float without spring recentering tension allows feet to find their natural float range during the pedal stroke and eliminates knee strain. 

*The Light Action Pedal System is for you if you are a:*

<LI class=bullr>Serious enthusiast seeking the easiest entry and easiest release of any pedal system <LI class=bullr>Competitive cyclist who seeks a pedal for use in training and non-competition
Rider who is new to clipless pedals
PJ352's comments are pretty convincing that ultegra's don't aggravate knees
I can't offer an opinion on the Speedplay's, but I've used Shimano's since 1990 with no problems. I currently use the Ultegra PD-6620's (with float) and Spec Elite road shoes. I have two problematic knees, but they feel best when I'm riding my bike!


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> Speedplay also seem good because there's plenty of float ( uninhibited motion ).
> 
> Although though i don't have any problems with my knees, i don't want to develop any issues either...


Again, a lot of float is not necessarily a good thing for the knee. I found out the hard way. Fortunately I use Zeros, so I was able to reduce the float and adjust the angle. I would not have been able to do this with Light Actions.

Personally, regardless of what Speedplay says, I don't see the purpose of their Light Actions. I've only ever used Zeros and if properly installed, I've never found them hard to get into or out of. For complete free float, they've got the X's.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks Dr John. 

Why would freedom / more motion ( float ) be bad for one's knee's as opposed to a more rigid / restrictive setup?


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> Why would freedom / more motion ( float ) be bad for one's knee's as opposed to a more rigid / restrictive setup?


No idea. I guess my natural pedal stroke puts my knee in bad alignment. By removing that area in the float, I avoid the bad alignment. But for me it was definitely the problem. I was having knee problems, and had gotten to the point where I had open my float all the way to 15 degrees, thinking a lot of float was best for knee pain. I had a fit by a pretty good fitter, and told him my knee issues. He responded that a lot of float isn't necessarily always good for a knee. I road for a few more weeks on my new fit, and my knee was still killing me. To the point where I almost quit. Then I took his suggestion and started clamping down the float. It was amazing. My knee started feeling better during a ride. Now I have no knee pain at all when I use reduced float. Occasionally I'll get some pain; I learned it was due to my cleat slipping laterally just a few millimeters. So now, any pain, I know my cleat has slipped. My knee seems to be very sensitive to alignment. A few more degrees float or a few millimeters lateral shift of the cleat and I'm hurting. With everything aligned, I'm fine.

I suspect my situation might be unique, but I have seen others report here that a lot of float doesn't work for them either. We're in the minority.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks John....

I'll definitely take that into consideration.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Roubaix_2009 said:


> This is really a great forum. Lot of new, exciting and valuable information.
> 
> Concerning Bike:
> LBS gave me fedex tracking # and i'm monitoring progress, should be here tue 9/9
> ...


A couple of clarifications....
Speedplay's claims that "Free float without spring recentering tension allows feet to find their natural float range during the pedal stroke and eliminates knee strain" is pure BS/ marketing hype. Too low cadence, knee alignment (or lack thereof) and cant (among other things that occur during pedal strokes) can also contribute to knee strain, and have nothing to do with float. 

Second clarification: The knee problems I mentioned were not related to the use of clipless pedals. The first occured when I initially started biking and didn't maintain an adaquate cadence, the second was unrelated to biking.

Without getting too in depth, but contains some good info:
http://www.roadcycling.com/training/kneepain.shtml

More in depth, with more info:
http://www.cptips.com/knee.htm

And:
http://www.cptips.com/knee2.htm


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

I'm thankful for the debate on the pedals, and the additional info. I've been working with my Shimanos and am getting more comfortable with them. I've ridden 140+ miles since Monday, and I guess I'm finding that experience and practice are the key. 

Thanks again.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Bike arrived today. Color of fork doesn't match bike. Bike is bright white, fork is off white. Replacement fork has been ordered. I'll get fitted tomorrow and ride bike until a replacement arrives.

This is second issue i've seen with 2009 special orders from specialized. Guess specialized has few more tweaks in processes before ramping up 2009 production.

Aso purchased following today from REI:
* Thule T2 Hitch Bike Rack
* Garmin Edge 705

REI is bit more expensive, but they give you 10% off all purchases at end of year and the end of year is almost here. However, what really sealed deal was their return policy. Basicaly, it's 100% Customer Satisfaction. If you're not satisfied, you can return it. That policy will save me money as i was going to purchase an extended warranty policy on the Garmin in case something went wrong after 1 year warranty expired. Now i can simply return it if any issues develop. Also, i can try rack out and if it doesn't meet my needs, simply return it. Great policy if you ask me.

I'll get following from bike store:
* 2 plastic specialized water bottle holders
* 1 specialized floor pump
* 1 spare tube

Other items still undecided about:
* clipless pedals and shoes
* bike pants ( double pant style )
* CO2 cartridge and micro pump combo to carry
* lights ( front & rear )
* small tool kit
* small bag under seat
* bike stand for home
* bike stand for work
( lots of people are buying bikes so we need stand(s) similar to those in bike store as we put our bikes in office area, not outside )

All these accessories add up pretty quick. Garmin and rack alone were ~$1000.00


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

Buy several tubes. And get some stick-on patches for emergency on-road repairs. Many will say they're bad, but they've always worked great for me, especially when in a hurry. I've patched tubes with them without even removing the wheel. I also like to carry Park tire boots. Very handy for repairing a badly damaged tire when on the road.

If you've only got one bike/wheel set, I'd recommend having an extra tire too. It's a drag to want to ride Sunday morning and not be able to because you've damaged your tire too much on your ride the evening before.

I've had my cheapy Specialized Sport pump for 3 years and it's been great.

Most will tell you with a well-maintained bike a toolkit isn't necessary, which I've found to be true. But I do carry a mini-tool with 3,4,5 hex and a Phillips driver since I don't have a wife/family to call to come pick me up in the event of a minor problem. To be honest, I've used the tool on other peoples' bikes more than mine. The Phillips is handy if I want to adjust my Speedplay cleats.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Roubaix_2009 said:


> Bike arrived today. Color of fork doesn't match bike. Bike is bright white, fork is off white. Replacement fork has been ordered. I'll get fitted tomorrow and ride bike until a replacement arrives.
> 
> This is second issue i've seen with 2009 special orders from specialized. Guess specialized has few more tweaks in processes before ramping up 2009 production.


Congrats on getting your bike. Mine comes in on Friday, and since I'm out of town this weekend, I'll pick it up Monday. Thanks for the heads-up on the color match problem on the frame/fork. I'll look at mine closely when I get it.

I also wanted to point out an interesting anomaly on the geometry charts for the Speciaized 2009 Roubaix vs what waas published for the same bike in 2008. If you look at the geometry charts for the 2008 bikes on the Specialized website, it lists the stand over height for the 58cm bike at 801mm and for the 61cm bike at 825mm. http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCGeometryPopup.jsp?spid=34081 If you look at the 2009 geometry charts for the same bike, it lists the standover height for the 58cm bike at 826mm and for the 61 cm bike at 850mm, almost an inch higher. http://mikesbikes.com/itemdetails.cfm?action=feature&ID=2102&features=4406 (I've found the same 2009 geometry chart on several LBS websites.)

Since the rest of the geometry numbers are identical, it seems that Specialized has changed the way it measures and lists stand over height.

This is probably not an issue for most people, but since I'm borderline between a 58cm and a 61cm frame on this bike, the 2008 published numbers added to my confusion. On further examination, I ended up switching my order from 61cm to 58cm. The cool thing about that was that my LBS had a 58cm in stock in one of their stores, so are effecting a transfer to my store.

Anyway, thought I'd point out the geometry chart difference in case anyone else looking at a Roubaix was looking closely at stand over height.

Roubaix_2009 - Will look forward to hearing your ride reports, once you get a few miles on your new baby.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> I also wanted to point out an interesting anomaly on the geometry charts for the Speciaized 2009 Roubaix vs what waas published for the same bike in 2008.
> 
> it seems that Specialized has changed the way it measures and lists stand over height.


It's not an anomaly, and it is correct. They haven't changed how it's measured. I'm looking at the 2008 catalog. There are three geometries listed for the Roubaixs: one for the Experts, one for the Comp and Elite, and one for the entry-level Roubaix. If you look at the photos of the bikes, you'll see that because of the nature of the curve of the top-tube on the Expert compared to the older style, non-curved Comp and Elite, it's not surprising the stand-over height is difference. I'm guessing the reason this has changed for 2009 is that the 2008 Expert's curved top tube has trickled down to the lower models for 2009.



> In case anyone else looking at a Roubaix was looking closely at stand over height.


Maybe I'm missing something; I don't see how the stand-over height on a compact geometry frame that fits you could be an issue.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Dr_John said:


> Maybe I'm missing something; I don't see how the stand-over height on a compact geometry frame that fits you could be an issue.


The charts I referred to were both *Roubaix Expert *model specific charts, one for 2008 and one for 2009, with different dimensions listed for standover height on each. 

I'm new to all of this, and the truth is that when you go to a lot of bike shops you get a lot of conflicting information, and this is nowhere as true as frame size. I've looked at a host of bikes, maybe twenty different models. I have been measured on two different fit systems and was still given inconsistent guidance. I've also run into a situation where I think I was told I fit a certain size because it was what that LBS had in stock in the bike he wanted to sell me.

When I went to look at the Roubaix Expert, the first salesman I spoke to told me that he rode a 58cm bike in that model, and that because of my body dimensions I should go with the 61cm frame. He did this with visual sizing, without ever seating me on bikes. 

Later I found a 61cm model at a different store and did find that the standover was tight - maybe 3/4" in street shoes. Some people tell me not to worry about standover, that 3/8" clearance is enough. Others says you need to stand over the bike with your feet spread 12" apart and have at least one or even ideally two inches of clearance.

If everyone gave consistent information, beginners wouldn't be so confused! 

But, I've learned a lot in the process. I've learned why bikes have different seat tube angles and head tube angles and B-B drops and fork rakes and chain stay lengths, etc. All of that led me to the Roubaix Expert as a reasonable next step for me.

I finally got hooked up with a knowledgeable store manager who sat me on different sizes, did some basic adjustments, and showed me why I fit a 58cm Roubaix better than a 61. I could probably ride either bike, but the 58 did feel better.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> The charts I referred to were both Roubaix Expert model specific charts, one for 2008 and one for 2009, with different dimensions listed for standover height on each.


Right. I didn't notice that, but was looking at the different stand over heights for the three 2008 Roubaix models. Regardless, the stand-over height for the 2008 Roubaix Expert in the 2008 catalog is 826 for the 58 and 850 for the 61, which as you noted, are different from the values for the these frames currently on the Specialized site and coincidentally the same values as Mike's Bikes lists for the 2009 model. Looks like Mike's Bike's is using the values from the 2008 catalog and not what is currently online, which is probably correct.

Unless you have a very unusual physique (very short legs, very long torso/arms), for a compact frame, on a frame that fits you correctly in other dimensions, the stand-over height isn't typically an important consideration.



> I finally got hooked up with a knowledgeable store manager who sat me on different sizes, did some basic adjustments, and showed me why I fit a 58cm Roubaix better than a 61. I could probably ride either bike, but the 58 did feel better.


That's what you want. Someone that will help you and explain to you why one frame fits better than the other, and actually put you on the bikes. You've probably learned that not only are you shopping for a bike, but also a bike shop. In hindsight, my first bike was too big for me. I knew nothing about bikes. But for me the issue wasn't the stand-over height (it has a compact frame geometry), but of course the length of the top-tube. I still have the bike and do occasionally ride it, but it doesn't fit as well as my other, smaller bikes.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Dr_John said:


> But for me the issue wasn't the stand-over height (it has a compact frame geometry), but of course the length of the top-tube. I still have the bike and do occasionally ride it, but it doesn't fit as well as my other, smaller bikes.


Thanks for the feedback in any case. These RoadBikeReview forums are just outstanding. They are such a great help!


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GL,
There's definitely a learning curve. And there's numerous facts, opinions and reality. Reality is utlimately all that matters. If it works, feels good and meets the individual(s) in question's needs, then nothing else really matters.

That's what i like about this forum... One can gather lots of information to make an informed decision which minimizes, if not eliminiates, need for trial and error.

1st bike fitting was pretty thorough. They had all kinds of gadgets, plum-bobs, floor/feet mats, butt matts, etc... to determine fit... Two guys were measuring, monitoring & observing muscles twitch/tension in my leg, knee, calf; shoulder blades, pelvic bone, etc... 


Floor and butt matts were interesting. You stand on floor matt for minute or so and when you step off; heat from sole of feet are used to create holograhic image of one's sole / arch.... ( one can clearly see if they're flat footed ( no arch ), standard arch, or very high arch. ) The butt matt is similar. You sit on this gel pad for approximately 1-3 minutes, while leaning over with arms resting on your knees to simulate riding position. The fitter then removes the matt and looks on botton to determine presure points so appropriate seat is selected.


I've been told 2nd fitting will be more extensive and they'll use video cameras. Difference between first and second fitting is, second fitting will be done with cycling shoes & clipless pedals to dial everything in, including float... whereas 1st fitting i was simply wearing shorts and running shoes...


If nothing else, it's alot of time and attention which i sincerely hope translates to a more comfortable, enjoyable and better experience once i start logging longer mileage...


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Dr John,
Swapped out original tires for flat/thorn resistant tires.
Swapped out Specialzed Toupe Gel 143mm seat/saddle for 155mm

Purchased:
and will carry four CO2 cartridges which I'm told should inflat to at least 90-110lbs.

mini hand pump in case CO2's fail or have more flats than CO2's

presta to schrader adapter in case gas station pump is absolutely necessary/last resort

although i put patches back, i'll get some of those stick-on patches for "emergency" on-road repairs in case two tubes and four co2 cartridges aren't enough or someone else on road needs help. ( like thought of being able to patch quickly without removing tube. probably takes little practice, but definitely worth considering when time is critical ).

only major & minor decision to be made now are:
major: types of shoes, cleats & pedals.... 
minor: lights

I'm looking at specialized BG S-Works or BG-Pro ( white ) shoes and speedplay light / zero or shimano ultegra pd-6620's

So far so good... 

Truly appreciate everyone's advise in helping me make good decisions and choices...


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

Roubaix_2009 said:


> Dr John,
> Swapped out original tires for flat/thorn resistant tires.
> Swapped out Specialzed Toupe Gel 143mm seat/saddle for 155mm
> 
> ...



Maybe I missed something in the discussion, but if you're carrying a mini-pump you shouldn't need to also carry 4 CO2 cartridges. Anyone who suggested carrying that many probably assumed you wouldn't have a minipump. A minipump and 2 CO2 cartridges should be all you need - if you use one cartridge and still have a leak, after you fix it use the minipump to inflate your tire. Ride on it for a while to see if the patch/replacement tube held, then use the 2nd cartridge.

Although it's rather time consuming to inflate a tire with a mini pump, it will definitely do the job. You can ride on 50psi just fine, you're just not going to be as fast.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> Maybe I missed something in the discussion, but if you're carrying a mini-pump you shouldn't need to also carry 4 CO2 cartridges.


+1

That's way-overkill. If you're planning on using CO2 cartridges and you're new to the use of them for inflating road tires, I'd recommend you try it at least once in the comfort of your garage/living room. People often have troubles the first time. I only carry two cartridges and not a mini pump. I've never had more than a flat/ride, and if I have more than two I should probably call it quits for that ride anyways. But that's just me. Do whatever you're most comfortable with.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Concerning Patches:
Dr John,
Thanks for earlier post concerning carrying stick-on patches. Went out on my first ride and didn't have any patches with me ( had couple of tubes and co2's, but no patches ). 

Ride was 24-26 miles round trip. Made trip to destination fine without any incidents. Before heading back, decided to take leisure cruse to fine something to eat as there were many resturants with outdoor seating... While leisurely crusing, saw bike shop and i always like to drop in on bike shop if it looks like it has an interesting array of bikes/items... 

Left bike shop, got on bike and something felt bit strange. Bike felt bit spongy... Looked down at front tire and it looked bit low. Got off bike, saw a thorn in tire. Removed thorn and air rushed out. Marked areas on tire where thorn penetrated, then went back to bike shop ( less than block away ) purchased patches, tube and one CO2. Even though i was carrying two tubes, four CO2 cartridges and mini-pump ( i figured what if i encountered another incident. didn't want to exhaust my reservers )... 

Long story short, on a bright and sunny day, in small downtown outside resturant, adjacent to bike shop, sitting comfortably in shade:
* didn't remove rim from bike
* simply removed tire from rim where thorn penetrated tire
* using "pre-glued Super Patch" from Park Tool usa, patched tire ( after roughing area with included sand paper )
* put tube and tire back in rim
* tried to connect co2 just purchased and couldn't cuz threads were messed up
* went to bike store and returned co2 for another ( store couple of feet from where i was sitting )
* pumped up tire with co2, but wasn't sure of psi in tires
* took bike into shop to have them measure
* they measured 90psi. then pumped both front & rear up to 120
* guess both tires were bit low, cuz 120psi sure feels good
* returned tube for refund as it wasn't needed

Lessons learned concerning flats, patches, tubes & CO2's
a. pre-glued patches are great ( simple, no glue, no mess, no wait )
b. never seen such thin patches before ( thinner than sheet of paper )
c. love CO2's they make life simple
d. you don't need to remove rim from bike and complete tire from rim to patch tube
e. visually inspect complete tire for any and all punctures or potential punctures
f. mark punctured areas on tire for reference later ( i'm going to carry marker/sharpie in future )
g. remove tire and tube from rim in area of puncture only, careful not to pinch tube, then patch
h. may want to leave thorn in tire so long as tire is still ridable and won't hurt tire or rim
i. leaving thorn in may prevent air from rushing out and tire deflating for bit longer giving one time to ride to area thats safer and more comfortable to perform repair


In response to carrying too many CO2's... How many CO2's one carries, depends on area where you're riding, conditions in areas you're riding and flats typically experienced in that area by local cyclist. I was told by cyclist in my area that it's not uncommon to get two or three flats in one ride because of glass on road from car accident debri, etc... swept to side of roads and various thorns due to type of tree's in area near road...

For you veteran road bike riders, this may all seem obvious and juvenile, but for a former mountain biker it's not. I never got a flat on my mountain bike riding on paved roads. And hardly ever got flat off road...

Concerning 50psi and not riding fast...
I don't plan to ride slow with this bike unless the bike or myself are badly beaten up or i'm simply exhausted or injured.

Concerning turning back due to multiple flats ( having bad day )...
If i set a goal and destination, i intend to reach it. If i encounter several flats along the way, then so be it... I don't remove rim from bike and i don't remove complete tire from rim. I simply remove section of tire from rim where tire was penetrated / punctured... it's simple, fast and very efficient ( couple minutes and work is done ) and i'm a newbie...

At this point, can't imagine why i'd need to change tube unless several punctures occurred simultaneously...


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Garmin 705...
SImply love this thing the more i used it...
After fixing flat in previous note. I was very thirsty and wanted a cool smoothy from jamba juice. Not familiar with areas, simply entered jamba juice in GPS finder and all Jamba Juices in area popped up. Press "Go To" and i'm presented with complete directions, turn by turn...

Also for those of you who don't currently own a GPS device, getting the Garmin 705 not only can be used on your bike, but it can be carried with you.

It saves time and money, cuz now i don't have to call 411 any more to get a phone numbers when looking for anything. Simply enter info, and you'll be presented with address, phone number and directions if you want, of all locations in your area

Another interesting feature is routing can be based on form of transportation:
a. car / motorcycle
b. bicycle
c. pedestrian ( foot )

Car/Motorcycle:
Presents less turns and includes freeways ( if you don't select avoid freeways )

Bicycle:
Trys to make as straight a line as possible between start & destination which makes sense when compared to a car or motorcycle cuz it saves time, distance, effort / energy... But straight line theory isn't always most efficient and enjoyable / fun route... Need option that says minimize turns ( i'm going to submit suggestion to Garmin )

Pedestrian mode is similar to bicycle... routing...


Other features i discovered:
a. it's very sensitive. 8 satelites... can measure speed when walking or in car accurately
b. when i drive it displays correct speed
c. when walking it shows correct speed
d. you can set alerts for high speed and low speed so when driving if you go over limit, it'll beep you, if you go under limit it will beep you, pretty cool stuff...

There's a host of other items i won't bore you with...

I'll simply say this... It's expensive, but it's very practical on and off bike... and it saves time and money... Last night spouse didn't know where she wanted to go eat... Simply choose food and international and list of resturants were displayed, she selected one, and drive directions, phone numbers for reservations, etc... were displayed..

LCD is visible during bright day light and battery last very long time ~15hrs is accurate...


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Bought Specialized 2009 Pro (white/black ) no red and speedplay zero...

These shoes are more comfortable than 08's

Choose SpeedPlay zero vs light cuz LBS said i can get ~ same float as light, but it's adjustible and light's aren't

Haven't taken ride with shoes yet, cuz butt is still sore...

Guess it'll take while to get used to new saddle...

It'll probably take awhile before i can ride as many miles continuously like many in this thread.

Anxiously looking forward to day when i can comfortably ride 60 miles continuously in one day... To be able to sit in saddle for 3-4 hours continuously would be something...


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

Roubaix_2009 said:


> ...At this point, can't imagine why i'd need to change tube unless several punctures occurred simultaneously...


That was an interesting post. I hadn't actually though of just leaving the tube on the rim - I'll have to keep that in mind next time I'm patching a flat! (Especially if it means not taking the tire off the bike - nice. )

If you can't imagine why you'd need to replace the tire, though, I'd suggest you work on your imaginitive skills.    :idea: 

1. Sometimes the tube springs a leak by the stem. It's happened to me before on my old bike - you physically cannot stick on a patch to keep the stem on. If that's shot, you need a new tube. Also, if the stem itself broke or got jammed or something that would mean a new tube.
2. Most of the flats I've gotten haven't been obvious - I mean I obviously have a flat tire, but whatever punctured the tire is no longer in the tire so I have to use the "pump up the tire and listen for hissing sound" technique to find the flat. Sometimes, though, I just cannot find the flat, and then I've got to put a new tube on. To be fair, these are usually slow leaks so I could probably just stop periodically and pump the tire back up. But it requires a new tube to fix it.
3. Obviously there a could be a hole in the tube bigger than the patch could cover, but to be fair that would probably mean my tire is also shredded and I don't carry a spare tube.  

There's probably others, but I gotta run. Don't have time for more imagination!


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> At this point, can't imagine why i'd need to change tube unless several punctures occurred simultaneously...


I have my seat-bag which I move from bike to bike, and it has a tube in it in case I flat on my tubeless tires. So I'm always carrying a tube if I'm using clincher or tubeless. I ride too often to want to unpack and pack my bag. You're correct, the times you would need a tube are few, but Paul points out one good example. Another example is a few times on the road, hard as it may be to believe, I couldn't find the whole in my tube, so after carefully checking the inside of the tire, I just tubed up and finished my ride. Another case would be where the damage is bad, requiring a tire boot and a tube too difficult to patch. This has happened to me once.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

Although i said:
"At this point, can't imagine why i'd need to change tube unless several punctures occurred simultaneously..." 

I didn't mean to imply one shouldn't carry a tube...

I forgot to mention in this particular post that i carry following:
"Two Tubes and four CO2's" ( just in case )...

Depending on situation, swapping tube could be faster, simplier and less aggravating.

Appreciate everyone's patience, understanding and forebearance as i know many things i post though new and interesting to a newbie is old news for veterans.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Just picked up my own new 2009 Roubaix Expert Compact Double. Gorgeous bike. I'm pumped! I'm looking forward to my first ride in a couple of hours. It's an exciting day for me.


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## sage1 (Dec 31, 2005)

Pics por favor


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

sage1 said:


> Pics por favor


Will do. Took a couple but having trouble making them small enough to upload. Will do it tomorrow.

I did install a Flight Deck, and took it for a 12 mile spin. I have to say that getting the cork wrap off of the "Specialized Body Geometry Bar Phat" on the handlebars so that I could get the Flight Deck wiring underneath the cork was a piece of work. It definitely took patience, and all I could think is "I want to ride this thing." Finally I did. The Flight Deck responds more slowly than the Cateye on my other bike, but once I got used to the delay it worked fine. 

I only had time for 12 miles before dusk, but beat my best average speed ever over the same twisting, uphill, downhill route by 1.1 mph. My best speed on my other bike (Specialized Sirrus) was 14.5 mph average on this route. I came in at 15.6 mph average on my first ride on my new Roubaix. Some of the improvement was adrenalin no doubt, but the bike is much faster than anything I've ever known. Biggest differerence was climbing up the hills. Much easier!


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

GLBorchert said:


> I have to say that getting the cork wrap off of the "Specialized Body Geometry Bar Phat" on the handlebars so that I could get the Flight Deck wiring underneath the cork was a piece of work.


By that I meant the gel padding that is underneath the cork wrap. It's very sticky, and the cork wrap tape did not want to come off cleanly. Anyone else ever play with that stuff?


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GLBorchert said:


> Just picked up my own new 2009 Roubaix Expert Compact Double. Gorgeous bike. I'm pumped! I'm looking forward to my first ride in a couple of hours. It's an exciting day for me.


 
Congrats on new bike and 1st ride...

How was saddle? Is it comfortable? Do you wear bike shorts? If so, any recommendations or suggestions on bike short brands?


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Yes - I have several pairs of bike shorts, all stuff I bought on sale at REI. I also found a couple of jerseys there, and some really good prices on jerseys and shorts at velowear.com. The bike shorts I like the best are Descente brand - really nice. I also got some padded underwear made by Canari that you can put under any shorts or pants to make them into bike shorts. I paid $22 for them and I thought a great deal.

I've got 225 miles on my new Roubaix so far, including a 40 mile ride today. I put a FlightDeck on it, which I think is great for gearing and as a speedometer, but pretty much useless for everything else. So, I added a Cateye V3 to the stem. Really great! Couldn't recommend it enough. 

Also, there was a hub problem on the rear Ultegra SL wheelset that came with the bike. It made lots of noise. The LBS didn't have an Ultreya wheelset in stock to replace it with, but had a Dura-Ace WH-7800 wheelset (2007 model, but new) on sale. I was able to upgrade to the Dura-Ace wheels for $50, so am a happy camper. I don't have a base for any real comparison, but I do love these wheels.

I would say the only problem I'm having is front derailleur adjustment. No matter what anyone does I get some chainrub, and I'm not talking on the small from chainring. I get chainrub on either the high end (50-12 and 50-13) or on the low end (50-24 and 50-27) no matter what I do. But, I guess that's a learning curve too. I had it in to the LBS twice but they didn't get it right either time,so I've decided that's somethign I need to learn to do myself. I've read several resources online, but none really address the alignment options you have in a braze-on situation. 

Curious to know if you have experienced anything like that?


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GLB,
Nice to hear from you again. No problem on delayed response, we're all busy with hectic schedules.


Concerning bike shorts


I went by REI in my area, but they didn't have anything in XXL. What size shorts do you wear, if i may ask? Really wanted to purchase pair of shorts from REI, because of their return policy in case didn't like later. I'll check out padded underware you mentioned by Canari and i'll try and locate couple other REI stores and see if i can find brand name Descent .

1st couple of rides, bottom really hurt. So i decided to get shorts from LBS. Plopped down $84 for specialized BG comp short . Yesterday was first ride out with bike shorts. Never owned bike shorts before, but they really make a difference. Ride, experience and comfort was significantly better in every area. When i went back to LBS to purchase another pair, asked if they had shorts with more padding. Turns out Specialize makes shorts specifically for Roubaix called BG Pro RBX shorts. Padding in these shorts is significantly thicker ( 3x more ). Plopped down $145 for these shorts and they should arrive in week or so. Interestingly, LBS said for best performance should use shorts without underware; however, i'm not quite there yet. I use shorts over underwear. 

Still learning & adjusting from riding mtn bike. Once riding is significantly more comfortable, i'll try longer rides. My longest ride to date on Roubaix is 26 miles. I hope some day i'll feel comfotable after staying in saddle 2-3 hours straight. Perhaps then i'll be able to go 40-60 miles on flat surface with minimal grades without having to take rest / break. My average speed on flats now is ~15-19mph. Pedals ( speedplay zero's ) are adjusted and feel good. Shoes ( specialized BG Pro's ) feel snug and good after replacing original foot bed wth specialized BG footbead Style ++ ( blue ). Believe footbed is bit more thicker. Like specialized bike socks ( Team Racing World ) over regular cotton gym socks, picked up half dozen of those . Saddle height appears to be good. .

Only two remaining items concerning comfort are:
Comfort in saddle:
1) Getting right shorts / padding for saddle ( if shorts don't fix, i'll swap saddles )
2) Getting angle of saddle correct ( i tend to like it pointing down )
3) Reach to bars ( moving saddle closer & possibly getting shorter stem )
Grip:
1) Learning correct hand position on flats.
2) On flats, i'm leaning on base of palms, right below wrist. Very painful & fatiquing
3) When i lean on flats with bar in middle of hand, there's no pain, but feels awkward.


The only issue's i've had with bike itself:
1) wrong color fork shipped with bike. I'm riding until replacement comes in 

2) when riding, my seat makes pop sound whenever i lift myself out of saddle. So long as i stay in saddle, nothing. But when i lift rearend out of saddle and sit back down again, get popping sound. I've had LBS adjust it; however, noise came back later. Suspect it's rails misaligning themselves. Not sure if it's saddle defect, my weight, or something else. If continues, i'll try have saddle replaced...

No issues with derailleur alignment. I have triple, not compact so it's bit different config than yours. Shouldn't get chainrub when in 50-12,13,14,15,16... Did problem exists with original rims or newly replaced rims only? 50-24,27 is big angel, so i'd expect chainrub with these gear combos... Typically if you're going to use 24,27, you'd be in your smaller front gear....

Well nice to hear from you again. Thanks for all info...

WIll chat later...


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

I'll check out those BG Pro RBX shorts. Of the three pairs of shorts I bought, the only ones I really like are the Descent shorts, which were in that $100 range. Unfortunately, in bike clothes you do get what you pay for. I had some adjustment as well to the saddle discomfort, but I wore padded shorts from day one so not as much trouble as you. What I've actually been doing on the long rides is wearing a double layer - the padded underwear I mentioned under the Descent shorts. With that combo, and with getting my seat set right, I haven't felt any significant discomfort three hours out. I'm also going to look into the bike socks you mentioned - this far I've just been using the cotton variety.

Hope you get your comfort issues ironed out. I did go with a shorter stem - 110 came installed and I swapped for a 100. It wasn't a gigantic difference and I might try the 110 again down the road, but it did help with the wrist pressure.

Though I'm sure the Ultegra SL front derailleur I have is fine, I bought a new Dura-Ace FD on Ebay and put that on yesterday, and had no problem adjusting it. I'm a tinkerer, and somewhat a perfectionist when it comes to these kinds of things, so have realized that I have to learn how to do it myself. Over the course of my life I've pretty much fixed everything; cars, every household appliance, all my own computers, tv's, electronics,etc., and actually didn't ever hire anyone to fix anything for me until I hit age 50 and decided I might have some better ways to spend my free time. Still, my LBS experience has been that all repair people are not created equal, and that every time you take your bike into the shop you're rolling the dice on which repair person you get. I figure I need to learn to be expert at bike repair myself, and am now looking at taking one of those weeklong bike repair courses, most likely the Barnett Bicycle Institute BAM course next spring. If I can find something local that will help me learn bike maintenance, great. My LBS offers classes, but I think they sort of treat everybody like an idiot. Big, high-volume LBS (which include most that sell Specialized and Trek) don't seem to me to be geared toward people who don't want to do things halfway.

Anyway, the Dura-Ace front deralleur adjusted easily. Shouldn't have been a difference I'm told, but there was.

I had that popping sound you described in my other bike, my Sirrus, and it was the saddle in that case. I had tried to adjust the seat to be too far back as that bike is a little bit small for me, and the popping sound was coming from movement in that adjustment even though I had it fully tightened. Once I restored the seat to a slightly more central position the noise went away. I haven't had any issues at all with my Roubaix Expert SL Compact in terms of the seat or noise.

I do love the bike! It's an amazing machine. I keep close track of each ride. Yesterday (Sunday) I averaged 15.7 mph over 26 miles with no stops, and that was after averaging 15.2 mph over 41 miles on Saturday. I know those numbers aren't going to impress any racers, but the encouraging thing for me is to see my numbers improve - up from 12.4 on my first 10 mile ride on the Sirrus just a month ago, to now over 15 on much longer rides on my Roubaix. Though I know it is going to be tough getting there, I can start to see how people get to those faster race-worthy speeds.

As a training incentive (to aid a worthy cause) and as my first such venture, I've signed up for the LiveStrong Challenge in Austin, Texas the end of next month. Me and 5000 other cyclists. They offer 10 mile, 45 mile, 65 mile and 90 mile routes in this cancer-fighting Lance Armstrong fundraiser. Being realistic, I signed up for the 65 mile route. This is in the Texas Hill Country, with elevation changes of as much as 480 feet, so even the 65 mile route might kill me. But, I'll train for the next month and give it my best shot.

Have you ridden in a lot of group events? Team events? Crits? So far I've only been a solo rider.


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## themsthebrakes (Oct 1, 2008)

Great of you to share your experiences. You guys are lucky to be able to start off your road bike experiences with such high level bicycles.

Don't be surprised if you have to change your saddle. Most people I know swap out their original saddle for one that suits them better (or take their old saddle with them to their new bike). I swapped out my original saddle (from my 2007 Roubaix Elite) for a Specialized Milano model (non gel). It's not as sleek as the original but I can spend as many hours on it as I want and still feel comfortable. In the original saddle, my rear would start to hurt after 12 miles or so and I would have paid anything to have seat that didn't abuse me, no matter how it looked.

As you are learning, one of the keys to seat comfort, besides the seat itself, is a comfortable pair of bike shorts. These are to be worn without underwear. Underwear, especially cotton, defeats the purpose of bike shorts, the purpose of which is to ride longer distances in comfort at a faster pace than just a trip down to the corner store. Cotton, when wet, just rubs your rear raw. The sooner you feel comfortable doing this the more comfortable and enjoyable your riding experience will be.

Did either of you think of joining a bicycle club near you? Each club usually has different levels of riders. It's fun and you learn a lot about biking from others.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Thanks for the input. I haven't joined a bicycle club yet, but I'm exploring my options. I know there are several local possibilities. Since I don't drink and am a vegetarian, the clubs that tout beer, BBQ and ice cream stops don't appeal to me. (If that makes me sound dull, I used to drink a lot and was a champion carnivore - until I decided that my life needed a change.) When it comes to clubs, I'd be looking at ways to really use it to become a better rider, to be challenged to become more skilled and healthier overall, as opposed to a social outlet. What has your experience been? What kinds of clubs have you encountered?


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## themsthebrakes (Oct 1, 2008)

I don't know of any bicycling clubs that deal in beer and meat. Bicycling is the major theme that unites everyone. Being out riding a bike and the enjoyment of the experience with others is a bicycle club's raison d'etre. I am motivated to ride faster and better with others. There is usually a mix of veterans and newbies within each riding level, so you can learn a lot and enjoy it at the same time. A sense of comroderie also develops, especially when you get to know the people your riding with. Yeah, there can be some jerks, like in any group, but that never takes away from the ones who are your riding buddies.

I'm up here in Long Island, NY so can't reccommend a club for you in your area but a google search for bicycle clubs and/or your lbs should be able to point you in the right direction. There are probably a few in your area. You ususually don't have to join in order to go out riding with them, just show up at the indicated start point listed on their website. My bike club rides on weekends only, but some clubs also have weekday schedules.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Thanks again. One LBS I asked about clubs at said that they had a Sunday morning ride, but that it was mostly social, and that they made frequent stops which cluminated in BBQ and beer at lunchtime. Then I saw a website in the Austin, Texas area of a Cyclopath group that had the highlight of an ice-cream stop. 

Since getting your email I did join the Greater Dallas Bicyclists online, and am planning to show up and make my first group ride with them this weekend. I'm sure it will be fun, and I know that I can't go it alone forever.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

Also wanted to add that I rode 72 miles last weekend in the Pineywoods Purgatory, a fundraiser for the Lufkin, Texas Lions Club. It's three hours from where I live but worth the drive. The Pineywoods are hilly - some big hills plus lots of rolling hills - thus the "Purgatory" designation. A lot of heaven but quite a bit of hell. 

My point, though, is that the Roubaix Expert was just terrific. Amazing! A lot of the roads were rough, pebbly asphalt. I know that I fared better than most of the people in the event. I was not as fatigued as I thought I would be, and averaged 17.1 mph over 72 miles with only two brief water stops. I was most impressed with the comfort over a four hour ride, but a close second was how well the Roubaix rolled. There were many times when I'd be behind someone going downhill, not pedaling at all, and would have to brake so I wouldn't hit the person in front of me. The bike was just faster than most, and there were a lot of great bikes there - many Colnagos and Looks and Scotts.

I'm doing a 62 mile charity event in Fort Worth, Texas in two weekends and then a 90 mile charity event in Austin, Texas the following weekend, the Lance Armstrong Livestrong Challenge.

Since this was my very first group event, I had no idea going in how much faster it is to draft behind other riders. Really a kick.

Have you had your new bike on any long rides yet?


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GLB,
I'm still getting used to bike, clip-ons, hand positions and most importantly breaking in my rear-end ( butt ) and seat. I've got 27mile loop / route i'm riding to prep myself. It takes 1:46 hr:min. However, when i finish, my rear end is so sore and hands are pretty numb, ...

Once i get comfortable in saddle, and hands are ok ( hands no longer getting so numb ), i'm going to extend that distance to 36miles, get used to that, then 46 miles, get used to that, etc... until i get up to 80/100 miles...

How long have you been riding?

Must be nice to be able to simply ride as long as one wants...

Eagerly looking forward to day when i can ride four hours continuously comfortably.

At first, i'll probably ride 2 hours straight, take break, then ride 2 hours back...

I'll stretch initial distance out and minimize break time until i can ride 4 hours straight.

That'll take awhile to get there, but it's a goal...

Thanks for sharing... Pretty impressive...


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

OK - When it comes to the seat and comfort, I cheat. Well, at least some masochists might call it cheating. I wear gel padded bicycling underwear under my regular padded bike shorts. That gives me two layers of padding/chamois. I'm referring to the Canari Gel Bike Shorts, sold many places, but as one example - http://www.rei.com/product/765677.

I wear these Canari Gel Bike Shorts under whatever normal, padded bike shorts I'm wearing. I have absolutely no problems with moisture or getting too hot or chafing or any of that. These gel-lined shorts I wear under my regular bike shorts - I buy them a bit on the tight side. I'm borderline between large and extra-large in all of this biking stuff, so I buy the gel liner shorts in a large and my regular biking shorts in extra-large. Two layers of padding. It works!

Secondly, I increased my comfort when I got the saddle set right. The LBS had it set with the nose pointing down a bit. I was constantly sliding forward. I read that Lance Armstrong uses a bubble level on his bike and insists that the saddle be set level. I did that, and also realized that my saddle was a little bit too far forward, maybe 2 cm too far forward, so played with it until it all seemed like a good fit and that added to my comfort.

Thirdly, if you're getting numb hands try a shorter stem. I changed that on my bike too, went from a 110 to a 100. I don't think I'm that much more upright, just feel more balanced and like I fit the bike. With the longer stem I felt more pressure on my wrists.

I haven't been riding for long, only for six weeks total, but I'm a quick study. I've been riding almost every day, which helps, but also have read tons of stuff. I've done multiple fit calculators, and read everything on fit I could find. I'll be happy to share links with you if you're interested. As a novice, I kept reading about fit and how important it is, so figured I better learn everything I could about fit and try to get that right before I worried about other stuff.

I'm thinking that with your seat and hand discomfort, there's something wrong with your fit.

Finally, and sort of off-the-point but maybe not, the Canari shorts and all of my regular lycra/spandex/polyester bike shorts, they last through daily use with proper washing. Don't follow the manufacturer's laundering instructions - not for your shorts or for your jerseys. Wash them in the machine in cold water, the most gentle cycle whatever washing machine you have offers, and very little detergent. Then, hang them to dry. I bought a pack of old-fashioned clothespins and put my stuff on hangers right out of the washing machine, then let it all hang dry in my closet. I've worn and washed one pair of these Canari gel bike shorts thirty times, and couldn't tell them apart from a new pair I just bought. They stay like new if you treat them right.

I read in the review section about guys cussing out certain bike short manufacturers, and I could tell that these guys were throwing their stuff in a hot dryer and then wondering why the gel got messed up, or why the elastic was wearing out. Dryer temperatures are very inconsistent! Thermostats on dryers go out all of the time. Don't ever machine-dry your bike clothes, at least not if you want them to last a long time.

Hope this helps. Try the double layer - check your saddle adjustments and ask your LBS about the stem length.


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## nis240sxt (Oct 6, 2004)

Could you post a pic of your roubaix expert? Haven't seen any real pics yet and was interested in buying one soon. Thanks.


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## CarlB (Aug 26, 2008)

Roubaix_2009 said:


> GLB,
> I've got 27mile loop / route i'm riding to prep myself. It takes 1:46 hr:min. However, when i finish, my rear end is so sore and hands are pretty numb, ...


I've been through that and I would tell you not to push it so long and get sore, especially not every time. Ride for 1 hour a few times. If you're not sore then add 15 minutes. Mix it up a little and go hard some rides for shorter times, take it easy others and ride longer. 

Change hand positions frequently, there are about 6 possible positions. Adjust the stemp so you are more upright to take some weight off your hands. The roubaix has 3 possible positions, 8 dress up and 16 degrees up. 

It takes time to adjust to a new exercise so take it easy.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

nis240sxt said:


> Could you post a pic of your roubaix expert? Haven't seen any real pics yet and was interested in buying one soon. Thanks.


I'll work on pics again today. I took some but with my 10 megapixel camera, I could not get a picture size the website would take - even after trying multiple format options in Photoshop CS3. I got the file size small enough, but the forum wanted specific pixel dimensions. I'm not a novice at this - I used to be a professional photographer and also have built photo-intensive websites. I thought the photo interface provided here was pretty weird. I'll play around with that a bit again, but if I continue to have problems I will just post them to Flickr and provide the link.


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## nis240sxt (Oct 6, 2004)

GLBorchert said:


> I'll work on pics again today. I took some but with my 10 megapixel camera, I could not get a picture size the website would take - even after trying multiple format options in Photoshop CS3. I got the file size small enough, but the forum wanted specific pixel dimensions. I'm not a novice at this - I used to be a professional photographer and also have built photo-intensive websites. I thought the photo interface provided here was pretty weird. I'll play around with that a bit again, but if I continue to have problems I will just post them to Flickr and provide the link.



Thanks, looking forward to it. I usually upload my pics to photobucket and have it resized there. Then I link them to my posts. Let me know if you need help.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

nis240sxt said:


> Thanks, looking forward to it. I usually upload my pics to photobucket and have it resized there. Then I link them to my posts. Let me know if you need help.


Here's a few I posted in Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157607862745425/ 

Check them out and let me know what you think.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

A couple of things I wanted to add about the photos: I tried to show the reflective, almost metalflake nature of the white paint, but in the photos it just looks white. Also, it came with Ultegra Sl Wheelset and Specialized Pro tires, which were fine, but I had the chance to upgrade to the Dura-Ace wheels so did. The Conti 4000's were a very recent addition, but I like them.


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## nis240sxt (Oct 6, 2004)

Thank you for the pictures. The bike is gorgeous. I think I do see the metalflake on one of the pictures. Is the white an off-white, pearl or true white color? Also, If you have done some climbing on the bike, how did it do? Did it accelerate well, any flexing of frame? Congrats on a beautiful ride and thanks for all the info. :thumbsup:


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

nis240sxt said:


> Thank you for the pictures. The bike is gorgeous. I think I do see the metalflake on one of the pictures. Is the white an off-white, pearl or true white color? Also, If you have done some climbing on the bike, how did it do? Did it accelerate well, any flexing of frame? Congrats on a beautiful ride and thanks for all the info. :thumbsup:


I'd say the white is an off white with some pearly reflectivity to it. Not a harsh white, but not quite pearl either.

I'm just learning about all of this stuff, but I think the bike climbs great. I weigh a pretty solid 195 pounds and I don't sense any flex at all. None from what I can tell. It's a really strong frame. I stand up a lot on the climbs, more and more as my conditioning improves, and it responds to my every move. I feel absolutely confident in the bike, uphill and downhill. I hit 39 mph last on a downhill last Saturday (my fastest speed yet) and the bike felt solid.


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

CarlB said:


> I've been through that and I would tell you not to push it so long and get sore, especially not every time. Ride for 1 hour a few times. If you're not sore then add 15 minutes. Mix it up a little and go hard some rides for shorter times, take it easy others and ride longer.
> 
> Change hand positions frequently, there are about 6 possible positions. Adjust the stemp so you are more upright to take some weight off your hands. The roubaix has 3 possible positions, 8 dress up and 16 degrees up.
> 
> It takes time to adjust to a new exercise so take it easy.


 
Thanks for advice....


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## Roubaix_2009 (Sep 2, 2008)

GLB,
Thanks for advice and pics...
I've saved link and will refer it to others when questions arise concerning how 2009 Roubaix Expert looks.

I'll take pics and post some day...

It's possible there's a fit issue ( especially when it comes to hands/palms, etc.. ). I think you may be right concerning short stem. i'm going to hold off on changing stem until my rear end is broken in. Friends at work who ride say they experienced similar thing when they first started riding this year and it simply goes away ( suggested continue to ride often ). Can 'tremember experiencing this when i was significantly younger ( * smile * )...

I'm going to wait for butt to break in before making any stem adjustments, but will seriously consider that later.

Good things so far:
* shoes feel great ( replaced inserts )
* pedals feel great ( really like float when needed )
* legs feel great when riding, so i suspect veritical, horizontal of saddle is good (I'm going to try using level as you mentioned )

Again, truly appreciate all your comments and advice... Really shortens learning curb and saves $$$ by preventing unnecessary or incorrect purchases


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

I was thinking of you when I read this article on Bicycling.Com. The link is http://www.bicycling.com/article/0,6610,s1-4-22-17806-1,00.html 

Maybe we all should give this no-nose notion some thought.

*New Saddle, New Man *
_They may look goofy, but bike saddles with no nose reduced numbing and improved sensation in this study's male test group _
By Matt Allyn

Male cyclists may have good reason to swap out their old bike seats for a less tradition saddle. According to a new study from the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, riding bike saddles with no nose helps improve sensation and relieve sexual dysfunction in men brought on by saddle noses. 

NIOSH, a federal agency that researches workplace health issues, studied 90 on-bike police officers that normally spend 24 hours a week riding. Researchers tested the officers before switching saddles and six months after, recording and measuring numbness while riding, tactile genital sensation, and penile function. 

Resistant at first, the overall reaction by officers to the new saddles was almost entirely positive. 87 of the officers opted to keep the saddle after the six-month study. Numbness dropped significantly, with 82 percent feeling no numbness after six months on the no-nose saddle, compared to an earlier 27 percent. Penile function, calculated by a questionnaire, improved with a 73 percent of the men registering no problems before the study rose to 85 percent after. Genital sensation, measured by a sensitivity threshold meter, improved 10 percent.

The problem with traditional saddles, says study author Steven Schrader, Ph.D., comes down to basic anatomy and physiology. "Look at where the saddle nose supports the rider, it hits the perineal area. It's an inside extension of the penis with blood vessels and nerves running through this area but no boney structure to protect them."

That lack of protection in an area that supports 25-percent of a rider's bodyweight, explains Dr. Schrader, flattens blood vessels and nerves, cutting off 60-80 percent of the blood flow. "The human body was not designed to bear weight in this area."

Though the study was limited to male police officers riding mountain bikes, Dr. Schrader's work joins an ever-growing stack of research on potential ills of nosed bike seats. The bottom line is that riders experiencing numbness should try adjusting their saddle angle and position, as well as considering a change of seats.

For saddle reviews, pricing and reader ratings, check out the saddle section in our Bike and Gear Review Finder.


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

*More On Saddles*

Curious to know what people think of these no nose saddles? I wonder if anyone who reads this has used one of them. There seem to be many options. https://no-nose.com/ Some are for mountain bikes only, but a few seem to be for road bikes as well. 

One in particular seems worth review: https://www.bycycleinc.com/ The BiSaddle was one of the no-nose saddles used in the San Antonio police department study. 54% (26 of 48) of the San Antonio police bike patrol now ride the BiSaddle. This review by one of the officers was especially interesting. https://www.bycycleinc.com/imagesDP/IPMBA2007Review.gif 

Any comments?


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## GLBorchert (Sep 4, 2008)

*Success with Noseless Saddle*

Pertaining to some of the saddle/comfort issues reported here, I wanted to let readers of this forum know that I purchased and have been using a noseless saddle with GREAT SUCCESS. I bought a Bi-Saddle, replaced my traditional saddle without adjusting the seatpost at all, and found it comfortable from my very first ride. I have ridden 30 to 50 miles with the saddle several times, and my speeds and times are if anything faster, and my ride comfort considerably better.

I know that conventional cycling wisdom says that numbness, pain, physical and sexual issues stemming from traditional saddles are just a part of the sport. I just think that is nuts - completely crazy. People are saying that hurting themselves is "normal", without trying better alternatives, simply because conventional wisdom says "we never did it that way before."

Anyway - if you are having problems with seat discomfort, I'd really recommend that you look into one of these noseless saddles.


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