# Machine shop derailleur hanger?



## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Anyone ever had a derailleur hanger made by a local machinist? I've tried all the online places and they won't do one-offs (Wheels Mfg, Pilo, derailleurhangers.com). The original frame manufacturer (Merckx) doesn't support their 6-year old models (under new management). It seems simple enough to make, and should be cheaper than a new frame.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

I own a precision CNC machining business. I once did a run of custom made dropouts for steel mtb frames made by a local builder in the 80's (Ken Beach). If you wanted ONE derailleur hanger made, it would require a CAD file, CNC programming and setup of the machine then cutting the part. If you gave me the CAD file, I may be able to make you one in about a day, and at current CNC shop rates, that would cost you about $600. Of course, I'd make a few more once running, if they could be sold to offset your costs. You really need to get the frame builder to get you one.


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## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

God I know how frustrating it is to have a bike and not a hanger, been there, done that earlier this year.

If you have the hanger and it's broken or bent and that difficult to source then I personally would go ahead and and make a copy and that would really not be that difficult if you have basic hand tool stills and access to a basic post drill that can be used to both drill the required screw holes but also with a router bit be used to do some simple shape routing as well if pushed.

Most common hangers are made from Aluminium which if you choose the right grade if not difficult to work and if it takes you 8 hours or so to do then thats still not the bad.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Wheels Mfg suggested buying a hanger that looked close to fitting, then filing/dremeling to make do. But they won't tell me the dimensions of any of theirs, so I've no idea if it would be close enough to begin with. In the meantime I've ordered a universal hanger which should get me back on the road. It's only held in place by the QR so I envision changing a tire tube and then spending 15 minutes repeatedly stopping to adjust the derailleur position.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Just compare your current hangar with the photos on Derailleurhanger.com, and buy the one that looks closest. A decent file or Dremel tool is enough to shape one to suit your frame.


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

Bill2 said:


> Wheels Mfg suggested buying a hanger that looked close to fitting, then filing/dremeling to make do. But they won't tell me the dimensions of any of theirs, so I've no idea if it would be close enough to begin with. In the meantime I've ordered a universal hanger which should get me back on the road. It's only held in place by the QR so I envision changing a tire tube and then spending 15 minutes repeatedly stopping to adjust the derailleur position.


use some sharpie for a few witness marks


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Bill2 said:


> It's only held in place by the QR so I envision changing a tire tube and then spending 15 minutes repeatedly stopping to adjust the derailleur position.


Perhaps not. Most of the ones that replace the QR nut are designed so they can't rotate even at less than fiull clamping pressure. And with the large contact area between the universal hanger and the dropout face, they usually line themselves up perfectly when you clamp them back down.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

As pointed out, if the frame maker doesn’t have them, then attempt to find a match at Derailleurhanger.com, as that will be the only cost effective method.

If it were my valued frame and I couldn't obtain a suitable replacement from the frame manufacturer or Derailleurhanger.com, I wouldn't hesitate to make a hanger in my basement machine shop, as I am quite comfortable making much more complex high precision parts than hangers. If you don’t have a good friend with the suitable skills and access to a milling machine and rotary table, who might be willing to do the job for a case of beer, or this is some exotic frame restoration, the cost of paying to have someone custom machine a hanger is going to be cost prohibitive.

Since it is unlikely you would have access to CAD drawings of the part, you would have to take the mangled hanger and frame to a machinist so they could take measurements and trial fit the work in progress as they manually machined a replacement. Depending on the profiling required to fit the hanger to your specific dropout, you could be looking at between 4 and 8 hours of labour time to manually machine a replacement. Without proper drawings, CNC’ing such a part would be crazy unless you wanted a large quantity of them made to offset the upfront cost of making and refining a drawing and setup time.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

Merckx is not really a manufacturer. I'd call them back and find out who made your model for them, then look for hangers from that brand, or contact that manufacturer directly.

I would also say what frame you have and post a picture of your hanger on the board - you never know who's going to recognize the part and be able to help.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Kontact said:


> Merckx is not really a manufacturer. I'd call them back and find out who made your model for them, then look for hangers from that brand, or contact that manufacturer directly.
> 
> I would also say what frame you have and post a picture of your hanger on the board - you never know who's going to recognize the part and be able to help.


Merckx is under new management. They have washed their hands of any support for frames made prior to 2012.

The frame is a 2005 Merckx Bound. Here's the hanger:


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Bill2 said:


> Merckx is under new management. They have washed their hands of any support for frames made prior to 2012.


What Kontact is saying that your frame wasn't actually manufactured by the Merckx company in Belgium, but by a frame building company that you might be able to identify. That frame building company might be able to help you out.

Failing that, I'd go with the machine shop solution. No need for CAD, no need for CNC. All you need is a savvy machinist.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

Bill2 said:


> Merckx is under new management. They have washed their hands of any support for frames made prior to 2012.
> 
> The frame is a 2005 Merckx Bound. Here's the hanger:


I understood that, but the new management has the files from previous business. But if they don't want to help you, they don't want to help.

The other option for creating a hanger is to make it at home out of composites and Tee nuts.

Using layer micarta would allow you to control the thickness of the two levels of the hanger, then drill and epoxy in the threaded inserts to complete. This can be done very accurately at home with simple tools and the original. We can talk about that off line if that becomes your most viable option.


BTW, what's wrong with the original? It appears to be in one piece.


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## gamara (May 20, 2002)

I would suggest that you find the closest local college that offers machine shop technology courses. I would suggest that you go there & contact the instructor for CNC, water-jet cutting or even laser cutting course as all 3 methods will work for you. Explain your problem & ask for their advice. I know that students in those courses have various projects that they must complete for those courses. If you're lucky perhaps the instructor could assign your problem to one of the students. A friend of mine took courses in both CNC & water-jet cutting & he had various projects that he had to make for his grade. Hope this helps.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Special Eyes said:


> I own a precision CNC machining business. I once did a run of custom made dropouts for steel mtb frames made by a local builder in the 80's (Ken Beach). If you wanted ONE derailleur hanger made, it would require a CAD file, CNC programming and setup of the machine then cutting the part. If you gave me the CAD file, I may be able to make you one in about a day, and at current CNC shop rates, that would cost you about $600. Of course, I'd make a few more once running, if they could be sold to offset your costs. You really need to get the frame builder to get you one.


+1, I keep seeing advice to go to a machine shop on this forum (from folks who've probably never done so). Proper set up, fixturing and other related prep work can make a 2 minute operation take 2-3 hours or more. In some of my small lot manufacturing operations, the fixture and setup costs are often 3-5 times higher than the actual production costs.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

> But if they don't want to help you, they don't want to help.


Exactly. I've had the UK distributor and the new distributor here in Italy ask Merckx as well, and as I said, they aren't supporting their pre-2012 products. They've bought the brand, not the bike company.



> BTW, what's wrong with the original?


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Bill2 said:


> Anyone ever had a derailleur hanger made by a local machinist? I've tried all the online places and they won't do one-offs (Wheels Mfg, Pilo, derailleurhangers.com). The original frame manufacturer (Merckx) doesn't support their 6-year old models (under new management). It seems simple enough to make, and should be cheaper than a new frame.


It's time to work on your skill with a coping saw and file. See if there's a hanger with similar hole placement but more meat surrounding it. Buy that and using the old one as a template saw or file the excess to duplicate yours as closely as possible. If there are small areas where the nearest hanger is smaller than yours, that's probably OK. 

If you can't find a close enough match then start with a 1/4" piece of plate aluminum, (you might phone WOB and see if they can sell you a piece of what they use. Locate and drill the mounting and RD bolt holes, (using yours as a template), rough cut excess material with a hacksaw, then go to the coping saw and file to finish. If you're good it's an hour or two (assuming you have a bench vise), then the last step would be tapping the 1x10 hanger thread which any bike shop can do for you.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

Bill2 said:


> Merckx is under new management. They have washed their hands of any support for frames made prior to 2012.
> 
> The frame is a 2005 Merckx Bound. Here's the hanger:


What is wrong with this hanger that warrants its replacement? I'm not seeing any obvious reason to replace it. If bent, then have it straightened carefully using an alignment tool. the threads look fine.

Further to my previous point about machining a new hanger - Given how simple your hanger appears, anyone with a drill press, the taps, and a grinder could make that hanger without a whole lot of skill and a few hours of time. A skilled machinist could probably make one in about an hour. They would need to understand that the position of the der stop is critical, likewise the nothc fo rhte wheel axle. An hour of machinst time shouldn't be too costly if that is your only option.

CNC'ing the part would be a pain in the butt, unless you were trying to prove a point or you had to make hundreds.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

FBinNY said:


> If you can't find a close enough match then start with a 1/4" piece of plate aluminum, (you might phone WOB and see if they can sell you a piece of what they use.


What is WOB?


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## jpz (Jan 19, 2007)

I really believe you best bet is what was earlier suggested, get a hanger *close* to yours & use a file or dremel tool to match it.
Years ago, a friend broke his hanger from acarbon Bianchi road bike, nobody local had one. Amazingly, it was almost identical to a spare for a gary fisher Sugar MTB bike I had. Used a dremel to make a small change, its been on his bike since & works fine.

JimPz


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Bill2 said:


> What is WOB?


My error, back when I did business with them Wheels mfg, used to be called *Wheels of Boulder*, and I still think of them as that. 
I also call Avenue of the Americas "6th Avenue" even though the name was changed before I was born. (go figure)


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

FBinNY said:


> +1, I keep seeing advice to go to a machine shop on this forum (from folks who've probably never done so). Proper set up, fixturing and other related prep work can make a 2 minute operation take 2-3 hours or more. In some of my small lot manufacturing operations, the fixture and setup costs are often 3-5 times higher than the actual production costs.


Perhaps the definition of "machine shop" is not clear. The one that made some parts for me some years ago was simply one man, a small concrete-block building and a number of machine tools. My suggestion was simply to have someone in a "machine shop" do what you suggested for the OP to do.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

Now that I've seen pics, I see that my comments about CNC were overkill. A machinist with a mill, bandsaw, belt sander and files can fab one of those up from your sample. Please people, a dremel tool is not for machining. Maybe for deburring or finishing.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

If my (rapidly deteriorating) memory serves me here, I think our esteemed member Touch0Gray has the tools and the skills to make one of those. Hope I'm not doing him a disservice...


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## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

*Edit:* I didn't see the second pic that Bill2 posted. Now I understand the problem but my comments about keeping things in perspective still stand.

Bill2:

I can't tell from the pic you posted and you didn't say so I have to ask, what is wrong with the hanger?

From the pic the threads that hold the hanger to the bike look OK and I don't see any huge cracks so if it is something minor I have a feeling you may be able to fix it temporarily (or maybe permanently) so you can ride your bike until you find a replacement.

I think all of us need to keep in mind that just because something can be done doesn't mean that it should be done like the person who responded and offered to mock a replacement up for ONLY $600. Whatever kool-aid he is drinking I want some. You could buy a replacement frame for that much. Must be some sort of Engineer trying to justify his job . . .

As many commented, chances are with a file and a grinder you could take a hanger that was close and make it even closer and you would never know the difference. Sometimes there are people who go a little crazy with all of their new age toys and they forget that a lot of times just a bit of good old-fashioned inguenity and some elbow grease are all that is needed. I remember many nights back in the day working in my Dad's shop under a drop light with a hammer, file, hacksaw, and other tools trying to modify various parts to work on my '68 Z-28 Camaro. It is amazing what a person can do when they put their mind to it so let's keep it real everybody and not go too far off the deep end.


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## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

RHankey said:


> As pointed out, if the frame maker doesn’t have them, then attempt to find a match at Derailleurhanger.com, as that will be the only cost effective method.
> 
> If it were my valued frame and I couldn't obtain a suitable replacement from the frame manufacturer or Derailleurhanger.com, I wouldn't hesitate to make a hanger in my basement machine shop, as I am quite comfortable making much more complex high precision parts than hangers. If you don’t have a good friend with the suitable skills and access to a milling machine and rotary table, who might be willing to do the job for a case of beer, or this is some exotic frame restoration, the cost of paying to have someone custom machine a hanger is going to be cost prohibitive.
> 
> Since it is unlikely you would have access to CAD drawings of the part, you would have to take the mangled hanger and frame to a machinist so they could take measurements and trial fit the work in progress as they manually machined a replacement. Depending on the profiling required to fit the hanger to your specific dropout, you could be looking at between 4 and 8 hours of labour time to manually machine a replacement. Without proper drawings, CNC’ing such a part would be crazy unless you wanted a large quantity of them made to offset the upfront cost of making and refining a drawing and setup time.


Why do we have to CAD or CNC anything? Let's keep it real here. Remember Tulio Campagnolo was making dropouts long before computers were ever dreamed of and probably before slide rules. Let's not do a total reinvent of the wheel; or derailleur hanger to be precise  

For anyone who doesn't know what a slide rule is PM me.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

RoadBoy1 said:


> Why do we have to CAD or CNC anything? Let's keep it real here. Remember Tulio Campagnolo was making dropouts long before computers were ever dreamed of and probably before slide rules. Let's not do a total reinvent of the wheel; or derailleur hanger to be precise
> 
> For anyone who doesn't know what a slide rule is PM me.


The reason people keep bringing up CNC is because making this out of plate will require at least a mill to get the part that the QR closes on flat and parallel, and cutting the contour that stabilizes it against the bottom of the frame.

To make one of these accurately without extensive mill set up or CNC, the easiest way is going to be using two layers of aluminum or composite, so you can get a file into the step.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Kontact said:


> The reason people keep bringing up CNC is because making this out of plate will require at least a mill to get the part that the QR closes on flat and parallel, and cutting the contour that stabilizes it against the bottom of the frame.
> 
> To make one of these accurately without extensive mill set up or CNC, the easiest way is going to be using two layers of aluminum or composite, so you can get a file into the step.


Certainly a milling machine is the tool of choice for the job, but a CNC milling would make it much more complicated than necessary. CNC mills have to be programmed, which requires digitizing a blueprint of the part to be made, then programming tool changes and tool paths. Followed by calibrating the tools so the machine knows where the edges are. That's a ton of set up work for a simple job.

Much easier to use a classic Bridgeport vertical mill, to rough up the part, accurately locate and drill the holes, and produce the step in back. Then the complicated contours can be done with a hand file, using the broken part as a template.

The next easiest method is to make it freehand with a file and other hand tools using the broken part as a template. Having done similar jobs in the past, I'd glue the broken hanger to the future one. Drill the mounting holes following the old ones down, then securing the two together with split pins to keep all the locations secure. Next drill the pilot for the derailleur bolt and drill the top of the axle slot which I'd saw to later to make a slot. Then trace the outline, pop them apart and start filing and sawing. The last step is to file the step in back (if there is one) which isn't that hard, using a marker to track where I'm filing.

Total time for the job probably an hour or two, using about 3 different files.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> Certainly a milling machine is the tool of choice for the job, but a CNC milling would make it much more complicated than necessary. CNC mills have to be programmed, which requires digitizing a blueprint of the part to be made, then programming tool changes and tool paths. Followed by calibrating the tools so the machine knows where the edges are. That's a ton of set up work for a simple job.
> 
> Much easier to use a classic Bridgeport vertical mill, to rough up the part, accurately locate and drill the holes, and produce the step in back. Then the complicated contours can be done with a hand file, using the broken part as a template.
> 
> ...


How does one cut an inside curve with a file? Take a good look at the part.


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## vettracer (Jan 12, 2011)

Kontact said:


> How does one cut an inside curve with a file? Take a good look at the part.


With a grinding wheel or dremel. Doesn't anyone do stuff by hand anymore? 

I used to work in a race shop fabricating custom one off parts all day long. That bracket would take no time at all with a drill , saw, files, and Dremel. A dril press and benchtop grinder would be even better.

Piece 'o cake

To the OP, If you are not handy with tools, find a local frame builder or race car shop and they fab what you want in about an hour.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Kontact said:


> How does one cut an inside curve with a file? Take a good look at the part.


I'd probably use a half round file (my favorite all purpose file). There are also round files for smaller radii, and for the smallest, like to fine tune the axle height of dropouts, rat-tail files.

Mold makers have been using files to make complex negative curve shapes in molds for years, and continue to do so for fine touch up work. Visit any machine shop, even the most modern doing one-up work and you'll see files in all shapes and cuts. They're less common in production work because hand labor is too costly, but still used there for things like deburring and touch up.

Given that we're working in aluminum, filing will be very fast and easy. Hint to the OP if you go this route. keep a coffee can of kerosene handy and dip the file in it every so often. This will keep it from loading up and make the job go faster.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> I'd probably use a half round file (my favorite all purpose file). There are also round files for smaller radii, and for the smallest, like to fine tune the axle height of dropouts, rat-tail files.
> 
> Mold makers have been using files to make complex negative curve shapes in molds for years, and continue to do so for fine touch up work. Visit any machine shop, even the most modern doing one-up work and you'll see files in all shapes and cuts. They're less common in production work because hand labor is too costly, but still used there for things like deburring and touch up.
> 
> Given that we're working in aluminum, filing will be very fast and easy. Hint to the OP if you go this route. keep a coffee can of kerosene handy and dip the file in it every so often. This will keep it from loading up and make the job go faster.


I file and grind knives for on the side. I don't know how you would file an inside 90 degree corner that is a concave curve. You could do it with a spinning cutting wheel, you could do it with a chisel. But there is no way for a file to do this - you'd never be able to file to a sharp inside corner on an inside curve.


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## RHankey (Sep 7, 2007)

Kontact said:


> I file and grind knives for on the side. I don't know how you would file an inside 90 degree corner that is a concave curve. You could do it with a spinning cutting wheel, you could do it with a chisel. But there is no way for a file to do this - you'd never be able to file to a sharp inside corner on an inside curve.


There is nothing on that broken hanger that cannot be profiled very accurately with files. Packages of files can be purchased very cheaply from places like Lowes/HD which are plenty good enough for profiling an Al part like this. Drill the four critical holes first, as they become reference points for the finished shape. Remove as much material as you can with a hacksaw, grinder, belt sander, dremmel drill or whatever you have access to, then use files for what is left. For critical spots like the der stop or the slot for the hub axle, I would simply clamp a scrap piece of metal (or even wood) next to the traced line to serve as a guide which will prevent you from filing any more than desired and keep the file at right angles to the hanger. You can achieve much more accurate results and complex detailed profiles this way than this particular der hanger requires. Most of the profiling on this particular hanger need only be pleasing to the eye. Being Al, grinders, hacksaws, belt sanders, files, and the like will make very quick work of the profiling.

Lowes/HD even sell cheap imperial and metric taps, but many standard bike threads do not conform to industry standard bolt threads, so be sure to check if any standard bolts fit the three threaded holes. Worst case, you might have to scrounge eBay for the two taps you will need. The files and taps ought to cost about $20-$30 total.

Probably the toughest job will be finding a scrap piece of Al that is of the desired thickness. But even then, a belt sander with a course grit could thin a finished hanger to desired thickness pretty quickly. There’s probably no reason why you couldn’t make the part in steel, so long as you always keep your rear quick release good and tight.

Even with a very good lathe, milling machine, and a lot of other equipment that I happen to have in the basement to make very fancy complex parts, I’d still do most of the profiling of this hanger by hand with files. That hanger would take me about an hour to make – 2 hours at absolutely most.

If you don’t feel you have the skills to make such a part, then it is probably money well spent to pay an hour or two for a machinist to make the part for you. You don't need to find a shop with fancy CNC equipment.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Kontact said:


> I file and grind knives for on the side. I don't know how you would file an inside 90 degree corner that is a concave curve. You could do it with a spinning cutting wheel, you could do it with a chisel. But there is no way for a file to do this - you'd never be able to file to a sharp inside corner on an inside curve.


First of all there's never a need for a sharp inside corner. Where you might feel you want one, you could work around it with a form of relief, or breaking the corners of the mating part.

But there are a number of ways to produce a concave curve next to a wall (which is what I think you're describing). There are curved files made expressly for this kind of work, which are generally used in mold making. You might also use a knife file (not for knives, but shaped like a knife). Or as I've done many a time, modifying a file for the job. In this case grinding a curved cutting edge onto the end of a one side safe file, and using it like a shaper bit.

There are other techniques that can be applied to get around seemingly impossible jobs if one puts ones mind to it before reaching for the milling machine.


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## foto (Feb 7, 2005)

You could also just use scrape linoleum countertops and walnut shells and be done with it alredy.


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## Special Eyes (Feb 2, 2011)

A REAL machinist knows how to make this part either manually or using a CNC machine. Not one who drinks Kool Aid or is trying to justify his job!? (Thanks for your valuable input, whatever it meant, RoadBoy. Making automotive parts with a hammer, file, and hacksaw isn't real, its crude).

I've been a master precision machinist, prototype developer, manufacturing and design engineer, quality engineer, and shop owner all for 40 years. My parts are in space and in every hospital in the world. I could make this on my Bridgeport Mill or $250K CNC machine in about the same time. That's just me. But the CNC is not necessary. It's the skill of the machinist, not the tools, just like it's the rider not the bike. Then again, why can't the OP just bring it to a welder and make it one again? Whatever works. 

"Just because you can doesn't mean you should".


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Special Eyes said:


> A REAL machinist knows how to make this part either manually or using a CNC machine. It's the skill of the machinist, not the tools, just like it's the rider not the bike. Then again, why can't the OP just bring it to a welder and make it one again? Whatever works.
> 
> .



this.....as a master jeweler with over 30 years at the bench, I feel sure I could duplicate something as simple as a derailleur hanger. There is almost no shape or angle that can't be created with hand tools let alone with the tens of thousand different shapes and sized rotary burs in a flex shaft. If it was me, I would make one...HOWEVER, the simple fact that the OP NEEDS one shows a flaw in the original design or execution. I would see what I could do about getting the NEW one RIGHT!....it sure as hell wouldn't be aluminum!


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> First of all there's never a need for a sharp inside corner. Where you might feel you want one, you could work around it with a form of relief, or breaking the corners of the mating part.
> 
> But there are a number of ways to produce a concave curve next to a wall (which is what I think you're describing). There are curved files made expressly for this kind of work, which are generally used in mold making. You might also use a knife file (not for knives, but shaped like a knife). Or as I've done many a time, modifying a file for the job. In this case grinding a curved cutting edge onto the end of a one side safe file, and using it like a shaper bit.
> 
> There are other techniques that can be applied to get around seemingly impossible jobs if one puts ones mind to it before reaching for the milling machine.


Yup. I just didn't see how it could be done with the round file you first described, and it doesn't sound like you can, either.

You don't need a mill, but you need a power tool for this project to not take 2 days of detail filing.


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## vettracer (Jan 12, 2011)

Touch0Gray said:


> this.....as a master jeweler with over 30 years at the bench, I feel sure I could duplicate something as simple as a derailleur hanger. There is almost no shape or angle that can't be created with hand tools let alone with the tens of thousand different shapes and sized rotary burs in a flex shaft. If it was me, I would make one...HOWEVER, the simple fact that the OP NEEDS one shows a flaw in the original design or execution. I would see what I could do about getting the NEW one RIGHT!....it sure as hell wouldn't be aluminum!


I don't know that it was designed or made wrong. It is supposed to break thus preventing damage to the dropout, that is why it is replaceable and should be cheap and easy to do so.
Clearly a radius at the base of the step would have made the hanger stronger and less likely to fatigue/break, but would it have still broken cleanly like it is supposed to do?

The only real failure is see here is that the Manufacture no longer supports a key component of their product even though it is only a few years old.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

Touch0Gray said:


> this.....as a master jeweler with over 30 years at the bench, I feel sure I could duplicate something as simple as a derailleur hanger. There is almost no shape or angle that can't be created with hand tools let alone with the tens of thousand different shapes and sized rotary burs in a flex shaft. If it was me, I would make one...HOWEVER, the simple fact that the OP NEEDS one shows a flaw in the original design or execution. I would see what I could do about getting the NEW one RIGHT!....it sure as hell wouldn't be aluminum!


So next time the frame will break, saving the hanger? That's a good idea.

Hey, how about making the hanger out of rubber? That wouldn't break, either.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Kontact said:


> Yup. I just didn't see how it could be done with the round file you first described, and it doesn't sound like you can, either.
> 
> You don't need a mill, but you need a power tool for this project to not take 2 days of detail filing.


I guess you've never seen a frame builder clean up the inside corner of complex cut lugs. It's not the fastest process, but not outrageously slow.

Fabricating the hanger by hand shouldn't take too long, but of course a vertical mill would be faster. Then again you have to factor set up time. 

In practice, I'd do the job using a drill press and band saw to rough up the part, then the Bridgeport to mill the step or recess. But that's because I have the equipment. The OP probably doesn't. He might find machine shop that specializes in prototype and repair work, but they're a dying breed, and it won't be cheap. Or he can do it himself using what's he has or can afford. 

Depending on his circumstances 2 hours or even 4 hours of his time might much more sense than shelling out $50.00 or likely more to have someone do it for him.

It's very easy to say things can't be done, but that's usually not helpful. I post to try to give folks constructive ideas of how it can.


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

find someone with a unimat....it'd be the tool for the job!


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> I guess you've never seen a frame builder clean up the inside corner of complex cut lugs. It's not the fastest process, but not outrageously slow.
> 
> Fabricating the hanger by hand shouldn't take too long, but of course a vertical mill would be faster. Then again you have to factor set up time.
> 
> ...


Again, you seem to confuse what is possible with what is practical. Cleaning up soft brass on a steel lug with the right file is a lot different than removing 1/4" of material to create an inside corner on a block of homogenous and sticky aluminum. It would take many hours to do well and require specialty files they don't sell at Ace.

There are a lot of practical ways to make this piece, but filing isn't one of them. Using power tools, using two mated piece or even creating the ledge by building it up with JB are all far more practical.


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## FBinNY (Jan 24, 2009)

Kontact said:


> Again, you seem to confuse what is possible with what is practical. .


And you seem confused, inferring that I was saying that filing was the best or only way to do the job. I've posted a few times that I'd use such power tools as I had access too. 

I posted what was possible (something you say isn't). The OP's situation and the specifics of the job will determine what's practical. There's nothing wrong with modifying the design to make it easier to make, using whatever power tools one has, building it in two pieces glued or pinned together, or whatever works. 

What doesn't make sense is to limit the OP's options to methods that may be cost prohibitive or unavailable to him.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

FBinNY said:


> And you seem confused, inferring that I was saying that filing was the best or only way to do the job. I've posted a few times that I'd use such power tools as I had access too.
> 
> I posted what was possible (something you say isn't). The OP's situation and the specifics of the job will determine what's practical. There's nothing wrong with modifying the design to make it easier to make, using whatever power tools one has, building it in two pieces glued or pinned together, or whatever works.
> 
> What doesn't make sense is to limit the OP's options to methods that may be cost prohibitive or unavailable to him.


You originally said you could cut the shelf with a round file, which I said wasn't possible. Then you changed it to a speciality file. 

Almost anything is_ possible_ - you can cut steel with dental floss and toothpaste if you have enough time. But what you suggest is so difficult and requires so much skill and special tools, why insist that it is even in the range of viable options? If you were talking to a die maker with the skills and tools to do this, he'd have already made himself a new hanger.


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## brakebuster (Jan 25, 2009)

I have just built up a pre-owned ( for 20 days ) 2012 Specialized Allez , but when i bought the frame i didn't know if it had a hanger or no , so , i looked online ( yes ebay ) and found a company in Canada that sells custom billet hangers

its called 

northshorebillet.com ( no affiliation at all ) , just a satisfied customer , 

its a very accurate milled part that weighs less than the original , and looks very cool in its finish against my black paintwork , and is a perfect fit

now i'm not saying they will have or make what you need , but its a starting point , and the hanger was only £9 Uk , 

as it turned out, my frame came with a hanger , but i still used the billet one rather than the original cast one as it looks way better , and is lighter

BB


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Try contacting the US importer, gitabike.com, and asking if they have any. If not, tell them what you're trying to accomplish and see if they'll offer a list of US dealers. Start calling around; usually somebody has one in a spare parts drawer. You could also try R+A Cycles; they're an on-line Merckx dealer. Next, I'd try contacting Calfee Design. See if they can replace the entire dropout. They may have to replace both dropouts so they match but it still might be cheaper than a new frame.


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## mushroomking (Sep 26, 2008)

Special Eyes said:


> Then again, why can't the OP just bring it to a welder and make it one again? Whatever works.


That's what I was thinking as I read this thread. A little weld and some grinding/filing might not be ideal or a permanent solution but it could work. Of course you would no longer have the perfect specimen for a machinist.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Touch0Gray said:


> this.....as a master jeweler with over 30 years at the bench, I feel sure I could duplicate something as simple as a derailleur hanger. There is almost no shape or angle that can't be created with hand tools let alone with the tens of thousand different shapes and sized rotary burs in a flex shaft. If it was me, I would make one...HOWEVER, the simple fact that the OP NEEDS one shows a flaw in the original design or execution. I would see what I could do about getting the NEW one RIGHT!....it sure as hell wouldn't be aluminum!


No, it definitely worked as intended- it bent instead of cracking the carbon rear stays. Aluminum is perfect for this application.


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## ibjorsvik (Feb 26, 2012)

This is helpful and gave me some ideas.


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## Cody (Oct 25, 2017)

Bill2 said:


> Anyone ever had a derailleur hanger made by a local machinist? I've tried all the online places and they won't do one-offs (Wheels Mfg, Pilo, derailleurhangers.com). The original frame manufacturer (Merckx) doesn't support their 6-year old models (under new management). It seems simple enough to make, and should be cheaper than a new frame.


Here is a company that makes custom derailleur hangers for any bike for a pretty fair price Custom Derailleur Hangers or clmachineworks.com


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## Cody (Oct 25, 2017)

This company does custom work for a fair price clmachineworks.com


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

Thanks for the thread dredge! I'm certain that after 5 years, he's probably found a solution.........


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

It's amazing how cathartic a good thread dredge feels.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

I usually do something else to relieve tension.


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