# Broke my fork "slightly"



## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

while replacing the brakes on my CAADX (2013, Tiagra), going from Cantis to mini-v's... the rears went smoothly.
CAADX TIAGRA - CAADX - Cyclocross - Road - Bikes - 2013

the front, not so much. May have stripped the screw boss on one side (even though I finger tightened first, then applied the rachet)... and the other side, the mount came off when I remove the screw....

which leads the question, aside from ordering a new fork from a Cannondale LBS.... would a Ritchey Comp Carbon Cross Fork also work?

Comp Carbon Cross Fork


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

It at least sounds fixable... photos?


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

headloss said:


> It at least sounds fixable... photos?


I'll take some photos tomorrow.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

The hard part would be the tab for the spring tension keep that properly aligned


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

I would at least try the LBS first, perhaps they can write it up as a warranty issue or get a replacement at cost...

Stripping the threads is one thing, and there are ways of gumming it up for a snug fit or drilling out the stripped bits and placing a threaded insert inside, I'd find a way to make that work before replacing the fork. But to have the boss snap right off? (I'm not seeing it in the pictures), but yeah, that's a challenge especially considering the spring tab, as you mention. Still, you could possibly two-part epoxy the thing back on and reinforce it with some carbon wrap or maybe some (fugly) lockwire or something. 

I don't care that it could technically be considered your fault, it shouldn't break that easily imho. A stripped thread is one thing, but the boss snapping off could have happened on a steep descent, no fault of your own. 

Anyways, it looks (on the website) like a standard 1-1/8 non-tapered steerer so I'm sure the Ritchey would work fine. Maybe you should just upgrade to a disc fork/caliper on the front if you are going to spend the money anyhow? Spot Brand makes a nice alternative to the Whisky forks. Otherwise, I'd probably just go with the Nashbar fork, as I doubt it is any cheaper made that the CDale with a boss that snaps off, and it's 1/4 the price.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

the only other part is the headset, which is Cannondale's integrated design. Ideally, I would rather get a Cane Creek 40 IS

too bad the closest Cannondale LBS are filled with some douchebags for their management... maybe I'll have to visit the one near one of the MTB trails I visit.... (which is over an hour away)


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

tednugent said:


> the only other part is the headset, which is Cannondale's integrated design. Ideally, I would rather get a Cane Creek 40 IS


As far as I know, the Cane Creek should work... it's just a matter of getting the correct top/bottom cups for the Cdale. Maybe I'll dig around some tech docs later and verify. 

I don't think there is anything odd or proprietary about the current c'dale headsets (but I could be wrong?). I have some of their odder features in the garage (lefty fork, 1.5 headset and "headshock" good old Made in USA weirdness... I mean, knowhow). 

Love the CC 40, put one on my 520 to replace the ancient 2002 CC C1. It's SMOOTH!


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

My specialized uses a cane creek headset....


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

Haven't played with that fork and I'm not sure I understand (or see from your pictures) but, when you unscrewed the brake, the brake mounting post 'unscrewed' off the fork instead or it 'snapped' off?

I once had the post unscrew off the fork instead of just the brake bolt... I could then unscrew the bolt from the post using a vise grip or something and screw the post back into the fork (I put blue loctite on the threads), no damage whatsover, and it happens, especially if the brakes were installed with a bit too much torque and not enough grease.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Dan Gerous said:


> Haven't played with that fork and I'm not sure I understand (or see from your pictures) but, when you unscrewed the brake, the brake mounting post 'unscrewed' off the fork instead or it 'snapped' off?
> 
> I once had the post unscrew off the fork instead of just the brake bolt... I could then unscrew the bolt from the post using a vise grip or something and screw the post back into the fork (I put blue loctite on the threads), no damage whatsover, and it happens, especially if the brakes were installed with a bit too much torque and not enough grease.


Agreed, I think this can be fixed. I had another fork like that that the post just screwed down. Look at the other post. I believe that that have 8mm flats to fit a wrench onto. The plate for the spring just clamps between the post and the fork.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Some cantilever brake studs are threaded onto a permanently attached fitting at the fork leg. If that's the case with your Cannondale, it's a small matter to unscrew the stud from the brake arm mounting bolt and reattach it the the fork leg. I would secure it with Loctite 242 and apply a slightly higher torque than recommended for the brake bolt.

If the stud is seized onto the bolt, don't muck around with it; just cut or grind it off and replace both the threaded stud and the bolt.

If the threaded stud is damaged, you shoud be able to get steel replacements from the various framebuilder suppliers on the internet.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

thanks for the help thus far.

I'd take more pictures, but I forgot my iPhone at work.

yes, the stud does have a flat, most of it is covered by the brake right now, and I don't have a tappet style wrench that small.

Unfortunately, I don't have an internal thread repair tool, to confirm that the internal threads are fine... as the first indication of issues was somehow the bolt "bottomed" out prematurely. 

Second, the tab that holds the spring... unfortunately, there is no locating tab on the fork, so I am left to eyeball it, as I only have 1 hole on the front fork for the tension, so I have to get it close enough the first time.

the stud, appeared to have a red compound.... if it followed the Loctite convention of colors... somehow I was able to remove it with a regular 3/8" drive socket, where it would normally require (as recommended by Loctite) some application of heat.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

tednugent said:


> the stud, appeared to have a red compound.... if it followed the Loctite convention of colors... somehow I was able to remove it with a regular 3/8" drive socket, where it would normally require (as recommended by Loctite) some application of heat.


Color can vary by manufacturer... I'd still say this is a possible warranty issue.

So, I take it that the boss didn't pop off, but screwed out? That's a good thing for the reasons given above. No need to eyeball it, just give a few dry runs without applying the loctite and make some marks with a pencil and/or masking tape to get the location right... although, since it is presumably threaded, it should just match up without any effort.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

the internal threading of the stud is definitely damaged at the bottom of the stud... so that means it's fubar'd.... if Cannondale sells the studs separately, it would be an easy fix.

may have to go to the LBS... for them to order:
Problem Solvers Replacement Cantilever Studs

P.S. I guess I know which headset to buy now.... 

Upper: IS 42/28.6
Lower: IS 42/30

from: Headset Fit Finder | Cane Creek Cycling Components


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

tednugent said:


> may have to go to the LBS... for them to order:
> Problem Solvers Replacement Cantilever Studs


I've had one of those screw loose on a steel fork and also aluminum in the past, just so you know it's not just a carbon issue. You wouldn't think it common, but it apparently is. I initially thought something completely different had occurred seeing as it is a carbon fork in your case.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

headloss said:


> I've had one of those screw loose on a steel fork and also aluminum in the past, just so you know it's not just a carbon issue. You wouldn't think it common, but it apparently is. I initially thought something completely different had occurred seeing as it is a carbon fork in your case.


the screw boss for the stud is aluminum (just like the steerer on my fork)...


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

And that's the thread size... Thread length.... That's another issue and the fork isn't a thru-hole


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## scooterman (Apr 15, 2006)

jb weld that sucker in there


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