# First century, first road bike: is carbon fiber worth it?



## mitchtaylorsbro

Hi all,

I'm not getting any love in the beginner's forum, so I thought I'd ask a more specific question in this forum.

I just started training for the 2011 Team in Training Solvang Century. I'm a mountain biker and don't know much about road bikes. I test rode a Cannondale Synapse Alloy 5 and really liked the way it fit me, but at my first training ride, my mentor said I might consider a carbon fiber bike due to the shock absorbing qualities of CF. The trouble is, I want to keep it affordable and still need to buy lots of stuff beyond the bike itself. 

The Synapse Alloy 5 has Shimano 105 components, which I've heard are the sweet spot in the product lineup. It costs $1299.

The Synapse Carbon 6 has SRAM Apex components and costs $1749. I know nothing about SRAM, even on the mountain bike side. I've only ridden Shimano stuff. But I'm assuming a slight downgrade in components, strictly based on Cannondale's numbering system. 

I budgeted about $1500 for the bike, but if CF is going to make a measurable difference in the experience, I could stretch it. Should I pay more and compromise on stuff like using my MTB shoes and cleats instead of going full roadie? 

Also, I'm not the gentlest person with stuff like bikes. I have an aluminum MTB, which has held up well for ten years of my tossing it around the back of my truck. And I've heard that CF doesn't tolerate rough handling well.

One last question: it seems like doubles are very common on road bikes. As a mountain biker, I kind of like the notion of having a granny gear (there is one gnarly climb on the Solvang route). Are there any disadvantages to having a triple?

Thanks for any input,
MTB


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## johntrek5

Hey, all I can tell you is that I have had several aluminum bikes and I have had two carbon fiber bikes. From my experience I would make the stretch and go for carbon fiber. Night and day difference in comfort. With aluminum, you feel every little pebble. I understand having a budget, but even $1,500 is a lot of money. You need to think down the road, and if you are really going to get into roadbikeing, and doing centuries, you need to be comfortable. It costs to play, and if you are like most people you will want to upgrade. Save the hassle and get what you really want now. You will thank yourself later.
As far as the crank goes. I think compact 50/34 is the way to go. Many people confuse this with a true double 53/39. The compact with an 11/28 or 12/27 will still eat up any hill you want. Triples are nothing but constant headaches. They never seem to stay in adjustment. I train on as hard as hills as anyone (10 to 12 % grade, with a couple long 19%) and I am large 195 lbs. The compact is awesome. There will probably be someone jump on here and disagree with everything I just said. I just have been there. I have had both frame materials, and both types of cranks, so I speak from honest experience. Welcome to roadcycling!


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## TomH

I was perfectly comfortable doing centuries on 23c's on an aluminum bike. If you hit a pothole on ANY roadbike, you're going to feel it, and it'll jar you. Carbon takes out the slight road buzz, but then again everything has a carbon fork on it these days, and thats where you're gonna notice most of the buzz anyway.

I think people blow material and road buzz out of proportion. If you're riding centuries every couple of days thats one thing, but a few long rides here and there.. dont worry about it.

Most bikes in that price range dont come with very good wheels, or tires. Id spend less overall on the bike and get a nice set of wheels and tires on it. 

My sora gear worked excellently, as did my 105, and as is my current ultegra. It all shifts, some feel crisper or snappier, but it all shifts. Since they're indexed shifters, you press the lever and it goes up one every time. Thats kind of a personal call about how much that matters to you. I always thought sram "felt" better, but in reality my slower shimano got the same job done.

So in short, if focus 100% on bike fit, wheels and tires. With your budget, I think you'd end up more balanced on a alu bike.


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## Dajianshan

I agree with TomH. I do regular long, long rides on an alloy CX frame. I don't really know what "road buzz" is. I did spend as much on my hubs as I did on my frame.


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## louise

The tires you use, and pressure you run them at, will make more of a difference in the ride then the material the frame is made out of.


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## JCavilia

louise said:


> The tires you use, and pressure you run them at, will make more of a difference in the ride then the material the frame is made out of.


True dat. Put 25mm tires at 85/90 psi on the cannondale and it will soak up a lot.

As for the compact vs. triple debate, If you feel you'd like to have that granny gear bailout option for the gnarly climbs, nothing wrong with that. Triples can be a little fussier to shift, but you're used to that from MTB. "Nothing but constant headaches" is a great exaggeration IME. The avantage of a triple compared to a compact, of course, is getting the low bailout gear while still having a closely-spaced cassette. I ride a lot of hills, some of them steep, but nothing is very long here (Connecticut). A 2-mile climb is a long one. My 60-year-old legs do fine with a standard double. But if I rode in real mountains, where those 10-12% grades go on for miles and miles, I'd get a triple.

There's a certain amount of prejudice against triples among roadies. Misplaced, IMHO.


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## gardenrunner

Triple it if you're in the mountains. No shame in having one. 

IMO, Ii you're on a budget, I'd say stay within it. You'll have more $$ left in your pocket, and you can always spend it on upgrading components on the bike that might make you a happier camper than fussing over the material of the frame. Or, you can get a carbon frame later down the line if you're still curious about the ride, and use your leftover components to build it up.


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## ziscwg

I got rid of my most of my vibration and road buzz with 25 c tires and a carbon bar. I have a cdale six 6. It has a triple and I do love it on the hills. 

Keep the mtb shoes and put mtb pedals on your road bike. I run my Time ATAC and love the fact that I can walk if I get off the bike.

On the Sram side on the carbon synapse, you may like that you can run up to a 32 cassette in the back. This is nearly as good as a triple on them hills. You give up the smaller gear jumps. 

You can also look at things tthis way, it's a tad expensive, but you can upgrade to better components as budget permits. It's way harder to do the frame.

I was like you too, mtb guy getting a road bike. I didnt want to toss $$$$ at the road bike. I would rather toss $$$$ at my mtb rig. I too seem to have got that long distance bug of 60-90 milers. If I had to do it again, I would have tossed more money up front. I have replaced my wheels and bar with something more suited for long rides.

Lasty, 
If you have been doing mtb, what else would you need to buy as you wrote above? 
Jerseys? You probably already have some that have the 3 pocket thing going.
Shorts? I wear baggies over reg road type shorts.
Shoes? Mtb shoes and pedals work fine on the road. You can go to road pedals later if it isnt working for you.
Helmet? Just take the visor off. Well, unless you were doing DH.


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## mitchtaylorsbro

Thank you for all the responses!

Based on your comments, I think I'll be okay with the Synapse Alloy. I am also looking at the Specialized Secteur Comp, which has carbon seat stays (best of both worlds?). Can't find one in my area though. I might try the Elite version too. It's got the big 32t cog and might eliminate the psychological need for a triple. Anything else in that category/price range I should look at? 

As for what other gear I'll need: cold and rain gear  I rode in the rain on Sunday with a rain jacket plus arm and leg warmers. It was 55-degrees out and I was still pretty cold (yes, I'm a native Californian/weather wuss). The weather's only going to get colder and the training rides earlier. 

I can add a fleece top over my jersey for an extra insulating layer, but I am thinking of going with heavier tights for the really cold/wet days. My feet were also really cold, but I didn't notice that until I stopped. Maybe some booties are in order? My head wasn't cold, but my face was. I will have to find a solution for that. Maybe a balaclava like snowboarders and skiers wear? 

I'll keep using my MTB shoes and just buy another set of pedals for the road bike. Hopefully, they'll last (they're probably 12-13 years old). That'll save $100-150 vs. the shoes I was looking at. And I'm due for a new helmet, but don't need an expensive one. 

That's it off the top of my head, but I'm sure other stuff will pop up as I get more into it too. It always does!


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## ziscwg

mitchtaylorsbro said:


> Thank you for all the responses!
> 
> Based on your comments, I think I'll be okay with the Synapse Alloy. I am also looking at the Specialized Secteur Comp, which has carbon seat stays (best of both worlds?). Can't find one in my area though. I might try the Elite version too. It's got the big 32t cog and might eliminate the psychological need for a triple. Anything else in that category/price range I should look at?
> 
> As for what other gear I'll need: cold and rain gear  I rode in the rain on Sunday with a rain jacket plus arm and leg warmers. It was 55-degrees out and I was still pretty cold (yes, I'm a native Californian/weather wuss). The weather's only going to get colder and the training rides earlier.
> 
> I can add a fleece top over my jersey for an extra insulating layer, but I am thinking of going with heavier tights for the really cold/wet days. My feet were also really cold, but I didn't notice that until I stopped. Maybe some booties are in order? My head wasn't cold, but my face was. I will have to find a solution for that. Maybe a balaclava like snowboarders and skiers wear?
> 
> I'll keep using my MTB shoes and just buy another set of pedals for the road bike. Hopefully, they'll last (they're probably 12-13 years old). That'll save $100-150 vs. the shoes I was looking at. And I'm due for a new helmet, but don't need an expensive one.
> 
> That's it off the top of my head, but I'm sure other stuff will pop up as I get more into it too. It always does!


Carbon seat stay? Every little bit can help, but it's not going to help more than 25 c tires. Oh, and good 25c tires. Some ride harsher than others. The Spec Armadillo Elites are rather harsh, but you probably won't flat!! Then Vittoria Open Pave are good, but you can flat easier.


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## mitchtaylorsbro

ziscwg said:


> Carbon seat stay?  Every little bit can help, but it's not going to help more than 25 c tires. Oh, and good 25c tires. Some ride harsher than others. The Spec Armadillo Elites are rather harsh, but you probably won't flat!! Then Vittoria Open Pave are good, but you can flat easier.


I ended up with the Synapse. It has 25c tires. They are Schwalbe Luganos with "lite puncture resistance." Whatever that means  I like the prospect of not getting flats, so I might try those Armadillos.

All I know is this bike rocks! I had two 12-mile rides with TnT so far and I never felt the so-called road buzz. We did hill climbs one day and I could handle it in my lowest gear without getting out of the saddle, so hopefully I won't regret getting the double chain rings. I tried a Trek 2.1 that had a triple and the geometry was really close to perfect, except when my hands were on the hoods (?). With the Synapse, everything fit, so I went with that. 

Anyway, thanks for all the input!


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## ziscwg

mitchtaylorsbro said:


> I ended up with the Synapse. It has 25c tires. They are Schwalbe Luganos with "lite puncture resistance." Whatever that means  I like the prospect of not getting flats, so I might try those Armadillos.
> 
> All I know is this bike rocks! I had two 12-mile rides with TnT so far and I never felt the so-called road buzz. We did hill climbs one day and I could handle it in my lowest gear without getting out of the saddle, so hopefully I won't regret getting the double chain rings. I tried a Trek 2.1 that had a triple and the geometry was really close to perfect, except when my hands were on the hoods (?). With the Synapse, everything fit, so I went with that.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for all the input!


Good to hear its working for you. The Synapse is their more "endurance" road set up. I liked the one I tried, but felt more comfy on a Six which is their more aggressive "race" bike. Go figure a mtb guy like me would be more comfy on a race type bike.


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## mitchtaylorsbro

ziscwg said:


> Good to hear its working for you. The Synapse is their more "endurance" road set up. I liked the one I tried, but felt more comfy on a Six which is their more aggressive "race" bike. Go figure a mtb guy like me would be more comfy on a race type bike.


LOL, my Synapse is more comfortable than my Rocky Mountain Element Race!


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## jlgoodin78

*Cannondale*

If it were my money, and I know it's not so it's easy for me to say this, I'd go with a Cannondale Caad 10. Yup, it's aluminum but it's lightweight, has great ride quality (according to every review I've read), and is affordable (and durable). I've had 2 CF bikes, a 2006 Orbea Orca and my current 2009 Cervelo S2. I've also got four aluminum bikes, two cyclocross, one road, and one singlespeed. The aluminum road bike I ride is a Ridley Compact, which I just got in July to use as a criterium racing bike (didn't want to replace the Cervelo in the event of a crash in a crit). Since I've bought the Ridley I've actually been using it a lot more than the Cervelo (haven't been on the Cervelo since September, but have tons of miles on the Ridley during that time). I don't notice a substantial difference in ride comfort and actually chose to race the Ridley in a road race over the Cervelo. 

My Felt cross bike (aluminum) is noticeably less stiff than either the Ridley or the Cervelo. However, you're not going to be so concerned with the stiffness you'd get out of a CF bike unless you're racing anyway, at least in my opinion. 

Cannondale knows what they're doing with aluminum and you'll get a fine, durable bike. Just make sure you get a great fit and you'll be happy with it.

As for components, Sram Rival is really great stuff. I switched everything I had over to Sram this year from Shimano (including going from Dura Ace to Force & the Force is nicer than my DA was....again, IMHO).

Best of luck as you shop.


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## NJ_Pirate

Comment on shoes and pedals: I have 15 year old Carnacs that work great. They are stiff and I can actually walk on them. I was using my SPD-Wellgo pedals for a while because they match my road bike but the only have clips on one side. They constantly flip the wrong side up, so I gave in and put my gaudy red Ritchey's on and I am much happier. 

Good luck with your buy!


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## singlespeedbuss

Cannondale makes a very nice aluminum road model that is supposed to ride really well for an aluminum framed bike. http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaen...CAAD10/Details/2491-1RAX5C48BLK-CAAD-10-5-105 
By the way if your going to participate in century rides might as well use your mtb shoes and peddles so when you hit the sag stops you can kind of walk normally. I have both but the mtb shoes are easier to walk in.


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## mitchtaylorsbro

singlespeedbuss said:


> Cannondale makes a very nice aluminum road model that is supposed to ride really well for an aluminum framed bike. http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaen...CAAD10/Details/2491-1RAX5C48BLK-CAAD-10-5-105
> By the way if your going to participate in century rides might as well use your mtb shoes and peddles so when you hit the sag stops you can kind of walk normally. I have both but the mtb shoes are easier to walk in.


I went with the more comfortable Cannondale: the Synapse Alloy 5. When I first started test riding bikes, the bike shop guy gave me two to compare: the Synapse and a Felt F75. I rode the F75 first and man, putting my hands anywhere other than the top part of the handlebar felt like I was trying to touch my toes! With the Synapse, everything was right where I wanted it on every hand position. I think he said the F75 was more racy and that would make it more like the CAAD 10. I didn't try that bike, but I'm very happy with the Synapse.


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## singlespeedbuss

Well the most important thing is your comfort so congrats on your purchase. Have fun on your Century rides they are a blast.:thumbsup:


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## robpar

mitchtaylorsbro said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm not getting any love in the beginner's forum, so I thought I'd ask a more specific question in this forum.
> 
> I just started training for the 2011 Team in Training Solvang Century. I'm a mountain biker and don't know much about road bikes. I test rode a Cannondale Synapse Alloy 5 and really liked the way it fit me, but at my first training ride, my mentor said I might consider a carbon fiber bike due to the shock absorbing qualities of CF. The trouble is, I want to keep it affordable and still need to buy lots of stuff beyond the bike itself.
> 
> The Synapse Alloy 5 has Shimano 105 components, which I've heard are the sweet spot in the product lineup. It costs $1299.
> 
> The Synapse Carbon 6 has SRAM Apex components and costs $1749. I know nothing about SRAM, even on the mountain bike side. I've only ridden Shimano stuff. But I'm assuming a slight downgrade in components, strictly based on Cannondale's numbering system.
> 
> I budgeted about $1500 for the bike, but if CF is going to make a measurable difference in the experience, I could stretch it. Should I pay more and compromise on stuff like using my MTB shoes and cleats instead of going full roadie?
> 
> Also, I'm not the gentlest person with stuff like bikes. I have an aluminum MTB, which has held up well for ten years of my tossing it around the back of my truck. And I've heard that CF doesn't tolerate rough handling well.
> 
> One last question: it seems like doubles are very common on road bikes. As a mountain biker, I kind of like the notion of having a granny gear (there is one gnarly climb on the Solvang route). Are there any disadvantages to having a triple?
> 
> Thanks for any input,
> MTB


The synapse alloy is a very good bike; nice frame, nice smooth welds. IMO, 105 is better then sram rival (less trouble, easier to adjust, more reliable, etc.-also confirmed by my LBS and several forums here). get the alloy frame and ride the heck out of it, you can always get a carbon frame later for about 350 bucks (see carbon china frames thread- I have one)
On the triple vs compact: there are a million threads on the pluses and minuses. It depends on how YOU want to ride, the terrain you like, distance of the ride, your fitness level.
I have both: compact and triple. I always do centuries or long rides (over 50 miles) on my triple. For me, is very hard to do long steep climbs when I've been on the bike for hours, so I always can count on my granny (30T chainring) You can always remove the granny and re-set your FD stops accordingly if you want a double later on. I also change cassettes as needed 12/25 or 11/28 or 12/30


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## ttug

*Ride anything*

Its fiction, anythijg abiout a material ride or feel is fiction.

Its BS, its not true, its false.

Get in shape, train in a program and the buzz you feel comes from your wheels. Good wheels, its up to you and how you ride and your physique.

I rode steel, aluminum and carbon and pretty much a MTB. In fact my first centiry was on a MTB with knobby tires.

I dropped weight, got an entry level road nike and rode. It was fun. Best time so far? 4:47, solo, no stops. Worst time ever? 8 hours, on the MTB. 

Train well, hydrate well, eat often, you will feel great. No equipment makes upi fopr endurance fitness. IMO, avoid anyone who suggests material for road feel or speed. They are liars, they are wrong. IMO


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## ucancallmejoe

My two cents is that it depends on the distance. 100 miles is no problem on bike like my 'dale CAAD9 aluminum. My experience has been that tire size is more important than bike material (as mentioned above as well). When young and dumb (five years ago) I did a double century with Vittorias inflated to a whopping 130psi -miserable. Overinflated 23's will make any bike miserable while properly inflated 25's will make any bike bearable up to 100 miles. Also get wheels that are in the Spring Classic style. 32 spokes, stiff laterally but not harsh like Ksyriums. 

Next, saddle choice is much more important on road bikes than it is on mt bikes (I own three of each so I know). Mt bikes is butt outta saddle while on road you are planted there for hours and hours. My two faves are the specialized ronin and of course the aliante. 

Finally is fit. I run my angry race bikes aero but for double centuries I put on a stem that is 1cm shorter, rotate the hoods up a bit, and add an extra spacer or two to rise the bar up a bit. The trick is to keep the balance there (not so upright as to put more weight on your butt) while getting your back in a more relaxed position.

Ultimate frame material? Scandium is the best for performance/price/comfort -my Merckx was both stiff and forgiving just like a $5000 carbon frame. If you want something that will keep you happy on the long hauls (200+ miles in a day) I suggest getting a used ti frame. All that racer boy stiffness that the cf makers tout grinds your butt and feet after twelve hours in the saddle. But some carbon is tuned for a more forgiving ride (like most sub 1000 cf frames except for the bottom rung cheapo CF). One nice thing about carbon is that if you break it you can often repair it. Other bikes, save steel ones, are more likely to be a loss if crunched. At least that is my experience. 

And dont go triple. The gruppo makers have abandoned that stuff for the most part. For my multi day rides I have put the new SLX mountain derailleur with a 11-36 on the back of my Surly. It is ten speed so it works fine with a compact double. In the super granny gear combo I think I can spin 90rpm and barely go 7mph. Perfect for the 24% grade at mile 90. 

Finally, some gloves with real padding, assoss chamois creme, and really good bib shorts. I have some giordana body clone bibs that are saved for the Death Ride type of events. 

To repeat -for stuff under a hundred miles tires make much more of a difference and you can make compromises with all of the other equipment. Over a hundred and you should think about it. My super long haul bike is an Indy Fab XS which is Ti/Carbon. Best of both.


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## carlislegeorge

It is possible to rationalize and justify just about any course of action. If you're comfortable, then just enjoy and don't worry. Buy the best feel for what you can afford. My experience was different. I rode an aluminum Trek for about 10 years. Anything over 20 miles wasn't really enjoyable for me. Then I rode a titanium Lemond for about 6 years. Personally I noticed a signifcant difference, long rides were much more enjoyable, at least up to the 100 mile mark. I got a carbon bike this past spring and enjoy it even more, but there isn't a head and shoulders difference compared to the Ti bike. 

Just ride....


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## GaRandonee

I was able to pick up a full carbon (Focus Cayo) full 105 bike for $1200 "bike build", tax, and shipping included. It was a cyber Monday sale, but I think the price is still $1500. It was from Jenson USA.


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## mudge

ziscwg said:


> Carbon seat stay? Every little bit can help, but it's not going to help more than 25 c tires. Oh, and good 25c tires. Some ride harsher than others. The Spec Armadillo Elites are rather harsh, but you probably won't flat!! Then Vittoria Open Pave are good, but you can flat easier.


Over the years I've used steel, ti, alum, carbon fiber, lots of variations in tubing size as well as traditional vs sloping top tubes... for my money, if I could only own one "road" bike and wasn't going to focus on road racing, I'd go w/ a 'cross bike made w/ a quality tubeset, a nice steel or carbon fiber fork, and medium to high end components. BIG tires, 28mm minimum. hmmm... sounds like the Fisher Presidio (the repainted Lemond Poprad, not the current model) I already have. 

I can set it up to road race it if I want, train on it in the winter, do ultra-marathons, or gravel grinders, all by just changing the tires.


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## albert owen

I have 2 CF bikes, 2 Alloy with Carbon Forks, an Alloy with Carbon Fork and Stays and a Steel bike with steel forks. I love them all and have done big competitive rides on all of them except the steel one which is my rat bike.
IMO, The biggest factor in comfort are the wheels not the frame material.
The advantage of carbon is that it is a little lighter and therefore require a little less effort.


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## Mapei

Yeah, me and al are late coming to the party; and yes I found from personal experience that my carbon frame does allow me to go faster & longer with less pain; but the real kickers for me are: 

1. A comfortable saddle.
2. Comfortable handlebars.
3. Comfortable shorts.
4. Comfortable gloves.
5. A shoe and pedal combination that is comfortable, stiff and secure. If your ankles are rolling around sideways, your feet and lower legs will get tired much sooner. 

Lastly and most important -- doing long rides to toughen the old sitzfleisch. In my experience, unless you're running really low pressures, tire pressure doesn't make that much of a comfort difference.


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## singlespeedbuss

I also have cf, steel and Ti. My cf accelerates quickest and climbs the best, 2nd is the Ti frame and 3rd is my crusty old steel Bianchi of 1989 vintage. My Bianchi rides the best over the long haul but it does not have any other redeeming qualities other than looking good with a Cadillac quality ride.:thumbsup:


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## Marcus75

*CF is worth it*

Bike sizing and fit is very important as you want to maximize comfort and easy when riding all day. 

Make sure to inflate the tires to the the max (120 psi for me) to avoid constant flats. 

THE MOST CRUCIAL part is the saddle positioning! If its not positioned properly, your prostate or back will feel it! 

Its definitely worth it to go carbon because it does a great job in absorbing the shocks and after riding all day, it still feels light! 

Yeah that last couple big climbs (one gradual and one steep) are a trip! But I always done it on a double and its fine if you train for it (climbing mountain is good training).


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## ttug

*get a bike that fits*



mitchtaylorsbro said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm not getting any love in the beginner's forum, so I thought I'd ask a more specific question in this forum.
> 
> I just started training for the 2011 Team in Training Solvang Century. I'm a mountain biker and don't know much about road bikes. I test rode a Cannondale Synapse Alloy 5 and really liked the way it fit me, but at my first training ride, my mentor said I might consider a carbon fiber bike due to the shock absorbing qualities of CF. The trouble is, I want to keep it affordable and still need to buy lots of stuff beyond the bike itself.
> 
> The Synapse Alloy 5 has Shimano 105 components, which I've heard are the sweet spot in the product lineup. It costs $1299.
> 
> The Synapse Carbon 6 has SRAM Apex components and costs $1749. I know nothing about SRAM, even on the mountain bike side. I've only ridden Shimano stuff. But I'm assuming a slight downgrade in components, strictly based on Cannondale's numbering system.
> 
> I budgeted about $1500 for the bike, but if CF is going to make a measurable difference in the experience, I could stretch it. Should I pay more and compromise on stuff like using my MTB shoes and cleats instead of going full roadie?
> 
> Also, I'm not the gentlest person with stuff like bikes. I have an aluminum MTB, which has held up well for ten years of my tossing it around the back of my truck. And I've heard that CF doesn't tolerate rough handling well.
> 
> One last question: it seems like doubles are very common on road bikes. As a mountain biker, I kind of like the notion of having a granny gear (there is one gnarly climb on the Solvang route). Are there any disadvantages to having a triple?
> 
> Thanks for any input,
> MTB


Just get a bike that fits. All the material arguments are BS. And I mean total stinky steamy maggot covered BS.

I have ridden solo sub 5 hour centuries on Aluminum and steel, the shock absorption isa WHEEL. They are in contact with the ROAD. A proper fit will provide you the comfort you need to generate the speed needed to enjoy your century.

Get the bike you want.


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## mitchtaylorsbro

Two more days 'til Solvang! I ended up getting a Specialized 3D Body Geometry bike fitting. As the training rides passed the 40-mile mark, I noticed some pain in my left knee. After two visits and $600 in service charges and parts, my bike and shoes fit me perfectly. On our one long, 80-mile training ride, I started getting saddle sore (not actual sores, just pain) around the 70-mile mark. But I'd just had a new, rock-hard saddle installed as part of the fitting process and I was just getting used to it. I hope it won't be a problem this weekend. Go Team!


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## GaRandonee

a very good steel bike is more comfortable than cf. Jamis Eclipse is 16.75lbs.


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## mudge

Marcus75 said:


> Bike sizing and fit is very important as you want to maximize comfort and easy when riding all day.
> 
> Make sure to inflate the tires to the the max (120 psi for me) to avoid constant flats.
> 
> THE MOST CRUCIAL part is the saddle positioning! If its not positioned properly, your prostate or back will feel it!
> 
> Its definitely worth it to go carbon because it does a great job in absorbing the shocks and after riding all day, it still feels light!
> 
> Yeah that last couple big climbs (one gradual and one steep) are a trip! But I always done it on a double and its fine if you train for it (climbing mountain is good training).


All reasonably sound advice except the part about tire inflation. Max inflation may be good for pinch flats, but it sucks for everything else (comfort, rolling resistance, traction, etc...) The way to avoid inflation-related flats is to run at least a 25mm, preferably a 28mm wide tire, run it maybe 5-10 lbs below max inflation, and don't run into potholes or other road debris.

Mudge


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## mitchtaylorsbro

mudge said:


> All reasonably sound advice except the part about tire inflation. Max inflation may be good for pinch flats, but it sucks for everything else (comfort, rolling resistance, traction, etc...) The way to avoid inflation-related flats is to run at least a 25mm, preferably a 28mm wide tire, run it maybe 5-10 lbs below max inflation, and don't run into potholes or other road debris.
> 
> Mudge


I'm running 25c tires: a Gatorskin Ultra on the back and a Scwalbe Lugano on the front. I tend to run them around 105-110 psi. I have a cheap floor pump, so I pump them up to 120 (according to the equally cheap gauge mounted on it) them pop it off and usually hear a lot of air escaping. I'm sure some of it is from the pump's hose, not the tire, but still. I guess my point is I'm not really sure what pressures I'm running LOL!


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## mitchtaylorsbro

*It's done!*

I had a great time in Solvang! SCOR puts on a first-class event. 

I hadn't had any mechnical issues in five months of training, not even a flat tire. So naturally, when I was climbing a little hill around Mile 15, I dropped my chain and it got wedged in between the spokes and the big sprocket. I couldn't pull it out and thought my day was done. I was pissed! But then I calmed down and with the help of my teammates, figured out how to gently pry it loose. At the first rest stop, I asked a mechanic to look it over and he said everything looked good. Then he felt my front tire and said, "That looks a little low, want me to pump it up?" I knew it was fully inflated when I left, so I decided to change it right there. Then my GPS gave me a low battery warning at Mile 35. Not having that made pacelining much harder than normal, but we persevered. 

As for the ride itself, our Team in Training coaching staff put together a great training program. We all finished and even our greenest rider, a woman who'd never ridden more than 12 miles before training started in November, said it wasn't as hard as she thought it would be. 

I was expecting Foxen Canyon Road to be steeper than it turned out to be, so I was surprised, and really glad, when we got to the rest stop at the top. Maybe not having a bike computer was a good thing after all? Ignorance was bliss!

The descent after that was really rough. I've never seen such crappy "pavement." But the huge, Foxen Canyon monkey was off our backs, so nothing else mattered by that point. We were so pumped up that even the small, steep hills near the finish couldn't dampen our spirits!

After the ride, I took a little nap and other than slightly sore knees and tight shoulders, I felt fine. We were well hydrated, ate regularly and monitored our sodium intake, so my muscles were tired, but not sore or stiff. 

If you've never done a century and want to, I highly recommend Team in Training. The coaching and camaraderie will get anyone through it. And I enjoyed it so much, I'm going to do it again next winter! Go TEAM!


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## ziscwg

mitchtaylorsbro said:


> I had a great time in Solvang! SCOR puts on a first-class event.
> 
> 
> The descent after that was really rough.* I've never seen such crappy "pavement."* But the huge, Foxen Canyon monkey was off our backs, so nothing else mattered by that point. We were so pumped up that even the small, steep hills near the finish couldn't dampen our spirits!
> Go TEAM!


Glad you had a good ride. That ride could be on my ride list for next year.

As for th bold highlighted section,
In CA, we don't spend our tax dollars on silly things like roads and such. We spend it on state employees. A road only gets fixed when it swallows the WHOLE rider.


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