# Using Triathlon Bike for General Riding?



## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

I recently went to a local bike swap and picked up a 2008 Cervelo p2 sl. Although I was looking for a normal road bike to replace my 1985 Fuji Avocet(parent's bike that I started on), the price, condition, and coolness were too tempting to pass up. So how should I go about making this a bike comfortable enough use for multiple longer rides a week and the occasional race? All i have considered is installing drop bars and just dealing with the clip on aero bars that have the shifters on them. I have a fitting sometime next week and I'd like to figure out what I'm doing with this bike before then. Please help me out if you can, thanks!


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

What kind of race?

I'd start by looking up the geometry or figuring it out by measurement. It doesn't look too weird, though, especially if you can flip the seat clamp around. It seems like it might be possible, but I'm not familiar enough with that particular bike to really say. Regardless, the big barrier is going to be getting the right saddle on there in the right position. You can swap to drop bars and the appropriate controls no problem. You can either move the shifters to the ends of the new bars - actually a common style in the past - or buy some integrated shifters to match the drivetrain. Looks like Shimano to me. How many cogs?


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You bought the wrong bike for your goals. Sell it and buy a road bike.

The seat post may be reversible to put the seat in a normal road bike position. Many of the Cervelo TT bike's post were.

It's going to be expensive to change to drop bars and road shifters. You can use the bar end shifters on the ends of a road bar but you will have to move your hand to shift.

Those frames were made to be aero, not to be comfortable. It's going to ride rough no matter what.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

^ This ^ 

Sell it and buy the correct bike for your needs.


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## mjduct (Jun 1, 2013)

Tri/time trial bikes aren't allowed In road races and are shunned by anyone with a clue in charity rides/ organized road ride. You don't have nearly enough control of your shifting or your breaking in any position, and you've got glorified skewers pointed into the ass if anybody in front of you.


If you aren't gonna stay on the front and pull everyone around all day, leave that thing in the garage...


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## Alfonsina (Aug 26, 2012)

Maybe you should become a triathlete. But then you want a road bike for actual, you know, riding. Was it a bargain?


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

AndrwSwitch said:


> What kind of race?
> 
> I'd start by looking up the geometry or figuring it out by measurement. It doesn't look too weird, though, especially if you can flip the seat clamp around. It seems like it might be possible, but I'm not familiar enough with that particular bike to really say. Regardless, the big barrier is going to be getting the right saddle on there in the right position. You can swap to drop bars and the appropriate controls no problem. You can either move the shifters to the ends of the new bars - actually a common style in the past - or buy some integrated shifters to match the drivetrain. Looks like Shimano to me. How many cogs?


I'm not sure about specific races, but likely shorter distance races under 50 miles or so. I do have a 65 mile bikeathon scheduled in a few weeks but will not be ridden very aggressively. All I could find out about this bike due to it being at the shop right now, is that it is very comfortable and controllable for a tri bike which is a good sign. Im planning on bring my cheap fizik saddle to the fitting and seeing what works best. Its shimano ultegra 10speed. thanks for the tips!


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## Warpdatframe (Dec 9, 2012)

Converting this into a road bike will use up your time and a substantial amount of cash. I put a good amount of miles on TT bike, from riding 20km to my usual spot then doing about another about 60-80km worth of efforts. Those days completely suck and take all the fun out of the riding. This is mostly because of the extremely stiff ride and negative back angle position I use. 

Road bike = good ride and fun
TT bike = faster and no fun


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

This bike was $500 so I don't mind spending some money to make it more manageable. Selling it is out of the question, however much of a mismatch this is for me, it is a huge upgrade from my last bike. I'm used to shifters on the downtube so nearly any position would be easier and safer to shift from. And I did spend a good part of last year training with a college triathlon team so there is the possibility of using it for tris. I'm just figuring out if I want to spend most my time doing what I like, biking and running, or what I don't like, swimming where I'd need to get to a level where I can survive a swim leg.


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

And any suggestions for drop bars? I'm looking to spend under $100. And I do plan on telling whoever does my fitting about what this bike will be used for, shouldn't that help make it more rideable? This is my first fitting so I don't know how they exactly work.


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## Warpdatframe (Dec 9, 2012)

andrewh844 said:


> And any suggestions for drop bars? I'm looking to spend under $100. And I do plan on telling whoever does my fitting about what this bike will be used for, shouldn't that help make it more rideable? This is my first fitting so I don't know how they exactly work.


 He is going to tell you to buy a new bike.


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

i found this, I don't know much about geometry but if someone does, I have the 54


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## crit_boy (Aug 6, 2013)

To me: Note 2 means that when not in TT position a more than normal amount of weight will be on your hands and arms. Your position will be "aggressive". You may find that you are not comfortable on the bike, your hands may get numb, you may get neck and back pain, etc. Or you may think the bike is fine. YMMV. 

As others have said, it is not the right bike for "normal" road riding. You cannot use it in a road race (note charity rides and the like are not races). I would not try to change it into something it is not. Just give it a whirl as a TT bike. I have known several tri-people that road very similar bikes as their only bike for years. 

As for the fitting, go to a store that caters to (or has experience with) tri bikes. A normal LBS may not fit you as well on that bike.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

I think that looks like a sweet ride. Am I the only one here? 
Is that your bike, or a generic photo? No pedals, so it would have to be tough to ride.

How high do you have the seat? You should have quite a bit of adjustment with that seat post for various seat positions. 

If you have a low seat, it should be ok. If the seat is that high, then the frame is a bit small for you. I suppose it should fell like you're heading downhill all the time.



andrewh844 said:


> And any suggestions for drop bars? I'm looking to spend under $100. And I do plan on telling whoever does my fitting about what this bike will be used for, shouldn't that help make it more rideable? This is my first fitting so I don't know how they exactly work.


'
As far as drop bars, I have several plain aluminum bars in the basement. They're pretty cheap. 

I recently installed Blackbird winged bars on my bike (the aluminum ones), and I think they are more comfortable to ride than the round bars. Several brands are available, especially with carbon fiber.

You can keep the bar end shifters, and just need to change out the brakes, and perhaps the handlebar stem. At least flip the stem upwards. The conversion should be quick enough, and cheap enough.

Have fun building the bike of your dreams.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

You're confusing people a little bit because this is a road bike forum. Around here, "race" usually means a massed start race as sanctioned by USA Cycling. There are a few different disciplines but the essential similarity is that everyone starts in a pack and drafting is legal. In a massed start race, forward-pointing handlebars and extensions are illegal. The ref would pull you before it even started.

I don't think you're talking about this kind of racing though. This is already the right bike for more tris, more right than if you put drop bars on it.

For charity rides and centuries, I dunno. I see people riding TT bikes at centuries. If the negatives I hear about how they handle are true, it seems inappropriate. There are enough sketchy bike handlers at centuries as it is. I also hear, "that's not really true, they handle fine." If that's the case, whatever.

From the geometry chart you posted, it sounds like even with the saddle slid all the way back, you may have trouble creating a normal road position. 75 degrees is pretty steep. I think 72 is more "normal," and the rails on saddles aren't that long.

Bottom line: I think you should give this bike a chance as it is.

Are your downtube shifters indexed? It's a cheap upgrade that could really change the way you feel about your old bike.


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## Alfonsina (Aug 26, 2012)

How much are you paying for the fit?


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

crit_boy said:


> To me: Note 2 means that when not in TT position a more than normal amount of weight will be on your hands and arms. Your position will be "aggressive". You may find that you are not comfortable on the bike, your hands may get numb, you may get neck and back pain, etc. Or you may think the bike is fine. YMMV.
> 
> As others have said, it is not the right bike for "normal" road riding. You cannot use it in a road race (note charity rides and the like are not races). I would not try to change it into something it is not. Just give it a whirl as a TT bike. I have known several tri-people that road very similar bikes as their only bike for years.
> 
> As for the fitting, go to a store that caters to (or has experience with) tri bikes. A normal LBS may not fit you as well on that bike.


That's what I was thinking, I want to see how it feels at the fitting and when i can finally take it out for a ride. I still need to figure out what races that my college bike racing club competes in and if there's enough TT races to exclusively ride TT. If there is not, I would try to have another handlebar setup that would allow me to use what will be the one bike I bring to college. And triathlons aren't out of the question yet, I really just want more than the tri/TT setup it currently is. I'm getting a fitting specifically for tri bikes, the shop has quite a few tri bikes and parts available. Thanks for your input!


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

Finally someone who doesn't think I'm crazy! Its a generic photo but it's the same except for mine has look pedals and a handlebar hydration system. To be honest, I didn't even sit on it before I rolled it over to the shop from outside where I bought it. I would've had it not had a flat tire. I am planning on flipping the post around during the fitting. I really don't think the seat will be that high but it is definitely the right size. Alright, ill probably look towards the more basic aluminum bars to keep costs down. I'll keep all of that in mind, thanks for the encouragement!


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## andrewh844 (Jun 29, 2014)

should be $150 but I have a half off deal from buying it at their bike swap. plus unlimited future adjustments which will be handy if/when i go about changing things


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## heybrady (Jul 3, 2011)

So it will be $75 fitting, $50 bars, $200+ shifters plus the $500 you bought it for. You are now at $900ish out of pocket. 

Why not sell that bike, which could get you more than $500 easily and take the extra $400 you were going to spend to make it feel like a road bike, and buy a nice $1200-1500 bike. That range will get you 105 level and a bike that you can ride comfortably jn any event.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

Why can't he just use the bar end shifters. Not the most popular in today's world, but functional nonetheless.

So... drop it down to.

$500 bike + $40 bars (or less if he wishes) + $40 Brakes + $10 Tape + Misc cables and expenses. Total should be about an extra $100... bringing it up to $600 + fitting. 

The bike was used. Go ahead and pick up a few used pieces to fill it out (which probably were available at the swap meet). Drop handlebars with the classic curves are dirt cheap, and if you can find them, may be worth less than $5 each. 

I just picked up a fairly nice set of drop handlebars + aero brakes (Shimano 600?) for $20.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

andrewh844 said:


> Selling it is out of the question...


here's where your logic fails you.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

andrewh844 said:


> This bike was $500 so I don't mind spending some money to make it more manageable.


Tranlation: I only wasted $500 so I don't mind wasting some more.

If I made the mistake you made in looking for a all-round road bike and was willing to admit it......I'd try to sell it for a profit or if it meant taking a loss I'd hang on to it and change nothing and keep around incase I ever decided to do a time trial or tri.


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## Alfonsina (Aug 26, 2012)

Oxtox said:


> here's where your logic fails you.


 I think he cannot sell it because he didn't pay 500 for it, he paid 500 plus his dads bike, no? At the bike swap? And I think he is a young kid, so hubris is par for the curse.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

andrewh844 said:


> Finally someone who doesn't think I'm crazy!


But with all due respect, in this instance, you are kinda crazy. Not just for buying a tri bike for rec riding, but also for not even sitting on it before committing to the purchase.

That aside, by the time you're through, I'd estimate your lowest cost scenario will put you close to $700. For that price (and as just one example) you could have a Specialized Allez with a fitting, warranty, integrated shifters and post purchase services reputable LBS's provide. AND, you'd end up with a bike that suited your intended uses... even an occasional tri. 

Before throwing money at this mistake, I'd reconsider other options (namely, selling it).


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

andrewh844 said:


> That's what I was thinking, I want to see how it feels at the fitting and when i can finally take it out for a ride. I still need to figure out what races that my college bike racing club competes in and if there's enough TT races to exclusively ride TT. If there is not, I would try to have another handlebar setup that would allow me to use what will be the one bike I bring to college. And triathlons aren't out of the question yet, I really just want more than the tri/TT setup it currently is. I'm getting a fitting specifically for tri bikes, the shop has quite a few tri bikes and parts available. Thanks for your input!


I really think you should get a massed start road bike.

Go ride with your club. Sound them out about it. At worst, they'll just tell you what we are, but hey, maybe we don't know wtf we're talking about.

I never raced for my college or university. My college didn't have a club and when I went on a team ride with my university's club many years later, I didn't like them. But here's my impression of what it's like.

You're going to do a bunch of training rides in the winter. In the spring, you'll travel to somewhere on the order of half a dozen collegiate cycling events. They'll mostly be two-day events, so you might get a couple stage races or TTs, but a lot of the time it'll be a road race and a crit or something like that, or maybe a road omnium. Actually it sounds like a lot of fun. 

When they've come out to the velodrome, there's been a huge breadth on my local university's team. Everyone from some real hammers - we've had a few people who went pro, and finished their BAs years later - to people who've casually walked on and want to try it out. The licensing structure for collegiate cycling has a ton of classes to facilitate that.

Bottom line is that the only bike you really need for collegiate road racing is a massed start bike - drop bars and no extensions. Some other rules, but you probably already comply. The geometry on this one will fight you. Maybe you can "win," and maybe you simply cannot make this work as a massed start bike.

It doesn't sound like you want to hear "die" from some strangers on the Internet. So here's my suggestion: take this bike to the fitter and ask him if he can make it work. It may not take him long to figure out, even less so if you flip the seatpost first.

Here's the second part of my suggestion: take the drop bar bike you have now and see if your college club is active during the summer. Go on a few rides. There's probably nothing going on on their racing circuit for a few months, although I bet at least a few of them also go to senior races. Every club and team I've raced on or know of has a line on bikes and a few that get passed around within the team. So if this is something you want to pursue, it's not like this TT bike is the last good deal you'll ever have an opportunity to make. I realize you whined about downtube shifters earlier. They have a bit of a learning curve, but people have raced the Alps and the Pyrenees with downtube shifters. Figure it out. Maybe they're bringing a knife to a gunfight if you compete with them, but they're fine to train on - really. I have. It really isn't that important.


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## armstrong (Jul 9, 2013)

This guy's story is similar to one I encountered in the spring. 

I picked up a "cheap" TT bike last year off Kijiji. Bought it for 500. I felt it was underpriced so I bought it to flip it.

I listed it on Kijiji in April. Had it at 795. Had multiple people interested in it on the very first day. Two individuals in specific were really interested in it and I spent considerable time on the phone with both of them. Neither of them had a bike at the time and they were intending to make this their only road bike. And they live in a big city. I spent countless efforts trying to tell each of them that the bike wasn't appropriate, that you can't break while in the aero position, etc. etc. Both replied, "Oh it'll be fine, I'll be OK etc. etc.)

Anyways - eventually one of the two bought it. This was less than 24 hours after i listed it. 

Next day, I get the first of several emails asking me how to convert it to a road bike. I don't even need to mention that I told him the bike was too big for him but he took it anyways.


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## armstrong (Jul 9, 2013)

To OP.

There's a lot of really knowledgeable people on here. I would take their advice to sell the bike and start your bike search again. Your bike is inappropriate as an every day bike. If you feel you absolutely need the aero position, then get clip on aero bars.

Here's an idea. Post an ad on Kijiji/Craigslist saying you want to trade your TT bike for a road bike. See what offers come in. Maybe you'll get to trade for something even more cool.


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