# Picked up a early 90s(?) Specialized Allez Frame



## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

Well, this is my first post. I've been lurking on this forum off and on for sometime. I picked up what I believe is an early 90s Specialized Allez frame in carbon fiber yesterday at my local bike shop. I been staring at it every time I go down to the shop but figured it wasn't for sale as it had been displayed up on a shelf with no tag. I got to talking to the owner yesterday and told him I had been wanting to build up an older road bike for sometime. Long story short, we both agreed that this would make a pretty cool build. The frame is in good shape, only some very minor cosmetic blemishes. He said it was an early 90s era frame. After doing some research on here I think I've confirmed that is about the correct era for this frame. I'm looking into finding a vintage Shimano 600 drivetrain to complete the build. I'll use this bike mostly for light city riding and maybe some nice easy country rides. Here's a pic of the frame.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

have the same frame with full DA 8-spd STI that I purchased new in 95 at a shop's clear-out-the-old-stock sale. not sure of the exact year of mfg.

have replaced the original rims with OPs, added a carbon seat post, and an old-school Flite saddle. it's my back-up ride now, but it easily has 40+K miles on it.

oh, and I'm sure someone will be by shortly to tell you all the horror stories about the tubes debonding and such...

I like mine, hope you enjoy yours.


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## Allez Rouge (Jan 1, 1970)

Welcome to the daylight portion of RBR. That's a nice example of those old carbon-tube-and-aluminum-lug Specialized frames.

I own a 1993 steel Allez, the year the new lightweight steel model was introduced, and have a copy of the 1993 catalog. Its pictures show frames like yours as simply the "Epic" series. These have SPECIALIZED on the down tube, EPIC on the top tube, and ALLEZ is nowhere to be seen. I think -- emphasis on _think_ -- the Allez name was used exclusively on the steel frames like mine from '93 on, which would make yours a '92 or older.

/Oxtox, you were typing at the same time I was. Does your frame have ALLEZ on it anywhere?


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Great frame.... I can't wait see it built


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks for the info guys. I really look forward to getting her built up too. May take a couple months but I will definitely post some "after" pics once she's complete.


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## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

That is a great riding frame, i have one in 60 cm. I also built mine from the frame only. Check out nashbar and see if they still have any of the threaded steerer carbon forks for that baby. I looked for a long time to find a period correct, threaded, aluminum fork but to no advail. So i got a new steel one, chromed, that looks alot alike. 

That is one of my best riding bikes, bar none, it just soaks up bumps and everything. ANd in my old eyes, is still one of the prettiest bikes every made. 

Bill

<a href="https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/?action=view&current=2010-10-13132558.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/2010-10-13132558.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<a href="https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/?action=view&current=2010-10-13121608.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/2010-10-13121608.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<a href="https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/?action=view&current=Picture1108.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v29/crossracer/Picture1108.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

WOW your bike looks great! I see you went with a more "modern" drivetrain. I'm not technical enough to make it out by sight, mind if I ask what you went with? That's pretty cool how you modified the drop tube gear lever posts to become a cable guide. Thanks for the advice on the forks, I'll check them out and see if they still have any.


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

crossracer (or anyone who can give me a suggestion),

I looked at nashbar. Looks like they have those threaded carbon forks available. They currently have two sizes available, 160mm and 175mm. My frame is 58cm, which size fork would you recommend? This is my first time building up a bike, so I've never had to think of this stuff before! In the past, I've always let the bike shop do all the thinking.


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## logbiter (Sep 14, 2005)

Nice looking frame, I've always liked those!
in terms of figuring out the steerer length in the fork... it's the headtube length + stack height of headset (eg 40mm for the Ritchey at nashbar). Go longer, not shorter. You can add threaded headset spacers or cut down the steerer if it's too long, but can't add length.:thumbsup: 

If you decide to go threadless instead, it's headtube length + headset stack height + stem stack height + ~20mm (for spacers / breathing room for different stems)


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

logbiter said:


> Nice looking frame, I've always liked those!
> in terms of figuring out the steerer length in the fork... it's the headtube length + stack height of headset (eg 40mm for the Ritchey at nashbar). Go longer, not shorter. You can add threaded headset spacers or cut down the steerer if it's too long, but can't add length.:thumbsup:
> 
> If you decide to go threadless instead, it's headtube length + headset stack height + stem stack height + ~20mm (for spacers / breathing room for different stems)


Thanks for the info logbiter! After I posted that I started trying to use some analytical skills and figured it was related to the headtube length but was not really sure what size I would need. Your formula is great info so I'll probably go with the 200mm size as I measured my headtube length last night and it was 150mm.:thumbsup:


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## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

Yea the group for this kinda feel into my lap. I took a huge chance on an ebay sale, it was crank (my size), BB, Ft Der, Rear Der, cassette, chain, Brifters, Brakes, Headset, and giro stem and bars (again both in my size) . I bought the whole thing for 200.00. Got it home and it was in fantastic shape, just the dirt from sitting around for unused for a while. 

But i love speed play pedals, and the seat is on all my bikes (gotta love terry seats). 
The wheels arnt correct, but what the hey, they look great. 

Bill


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## minutemaidman (Jun 14, 2010)

Thats a very nice looking frame. I like your thinking trying to stay period correct with the components. I would recommend going Dura Ace vs 600. I think you'll find more available parts and in better shape too. That has been my experience anyway. The Dura Ace 8 spd STI brakes/shifters would look good on there with a 7410 crank, FD and brakes, and a 7402 RD. Try to find a stem and seatpost to match and you are set! And dont forget some retroish wheels. Have fun, it is adicting.


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## latman (Apr 24, 2004)

I think Giant made these for Specialized , and the same bonding "technology" was used on their own Cadex line.


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## T0mi (Mar 2, 2011)

I have the same frame with the original alu fork. I raced it until 2001 with a campy 9sp group.

crossracer : did you broke the original fork ? yours doesn't seem to be the one. 

Mine failed on me 3 years ago while descending a swiss pass. The dropout poped out of the chainstay when crossing a railway. It was a scary moment. It was repaired and is collecting dust as I don't have the confidence to use it again.

That's a common problem with bonding technology when frames are getting hold, my mother had two failures with vitus 979 frames.


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

Thanks for the info guys. Yeah, period correct would be cool but as mmm said it's a little challenging trying to find parts in good shape. I was hoping to find a complete set that was in good shape/nos. Since I plan on riding it I may just put modern components on it for the time being. Can always swap out down the road. Besides, it's starting to become nice riding weather!


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## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

yea, my frame came without a fork. so I sourced a steel one. I wanted to mildly disagree wth the dura ace is easier to find post. in my experience on ebay 6400. shomano ultegra is way more easy to find and a lot cheaper. check it out. 

bill.


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## T0mi (Mar 2, 2011)

If you can't find nos shimano stuff, go with campy 8v or 9v. Ergopower shifter levers and derailleurs are rock solid, while used sti shifters have a lot of wear and make a lot of noise. And they are ugly imho. 

My chorus/record combo of late 1990's still works like new and looks really good (apart from inevitable little sratchs) and it has more than 5 high level racing seasons (12k miles per season).


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## RC28 (May 9, 2002)

Watch out for galvanic corrosion at the lugs. I know several people who sent their frames for warranty replacement at the time (1994 I believe it was) because of this.


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## vw_steggie (Mar 27, 2007)

Here is mine. Got the frameset last winter for $100 and built it up with all the spare parts I had laying around.


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## CH53Driver (Mar 15, 2011)

Looks nice vw!


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## DougMM (Feb 1, 2011)

*1993 Specialized Epic*

Yes, I would agree that it is older than a 1993. I have a 1993 and it is painted (and came with Shimano 105 STI 8 speed group). Nice to see people like these bikes. Mine has been great, though I just bought a new bike. Nobody around here wants to buy my Epic though.










More pictures here.


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