# Crux (2014) questions and Quarq compatibility



## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

HI,

I am seriously considering getting 2014 Crux Expert Red Disk bike as an all-arounder. As I asked here I am not sure if I should get 58 or 61 size, if you can help me with that it would be great. 

Apart from the frame size, I have additional questions I would like to clarify before I order one of the bikes.

Do you guys know what is the Q-factor of SRAM S-952 (with 175 cranks on 58 frame)?

I would like to fit the bike with my Quarq Elsa Compact 177.5 crankset and I am bit worried if there would be enough clearance between cranks and frame. Anybody here with 58 (or 61) who could take a picture to see what the clearance is with stock crankset?

Also, do you think the front derailleur can be moved upwards to fit 50/34 rings?

Any advice will be much appreciated.
Thanks!


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> HI,
> 
> I am seriously considering getting 2014 Crux Expert Red Disk bike as an all-arounder. As I asked here I am not sure if I should get 58 or 61 size, if you can help me with that it would be great.
> 
> ...


Stack and reach is listed for the Crux. Pretty easy if you compare this to your current road bike or cross bike. Stack and reach of a 61 Crux is pretty close to that of a 58 Roubaix. 
If you can't compare the Crux dimensionally your current bike, then you have to ask yourself what kind of rider you are. A 61 would be more of a Roubaix fit and a 58 would fit you more like a Tarmac. If you have a racer's heart and can ride flat backed and can sustain 2-4" of drop and like this kind of fit, then get the 58.
Btw, I am 6'1" with 35.25" cycling inseam and would choose a 61cm Crux because I like a taller head tube with bars up closer to saddle height...and a longish top tube to stretch out.
Can't help with the Quarq.
Crux is a nice bike.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> Stack and reach is listed for the Crux. Pretty easy if you compare this to your current road bike or cross bike. Stack and reach of a 61 Crux is pretty close to that of a 58 Roubaix.
> If you can't compare the Crux dimensionally your current bike, then you have to ask yourself what kind of rider you are. A 61 would be more of a Roubaix fit and a 58 would fit you more like a Tarmac. If you have a racer's heart and can ride flat backed and can sustain 2-4" of drop and like this kind of fit, then get the 58.
> Btw, I am 6'1" with 35.25" cycling inseam and would choose a 61cm Crux because I like a taller head tube with bars up closer to saddle height...and a longish top tube to stretch out.
> Can't help with the Quarq.
> Crux is a nice bike.


Thanks! Some very good points. I am coming from MTB world, so this will be my first "road" bike. So I have nothing to compare it with unfortunately. I may be able to test 58 Tarmac at the shop, so hopefully that would give me some idea about the fit.

Given that I am not young anymore, I'd prefer a little more relaxed fit tbh.

Well, I asked about Quarq explicitly, but basically the generic question is if a longer (177.5/180) cranks would fit Crux frame. I guess geometry has not changed for 2014, so there should be somebody out there who rides 58/61 Crux with cranks longer than stock 175???


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Thanks! Some very good points. I am coming from MTB world, so this will be my first "road" bike. So I have nothing to compare it with unfortunately. I may be able to test 58 Tarmac at the shop, so hopefully that would give me some idea about the fit.
> 
> Given that I am not young anymore, I'd prefer a little more relaxed fit tbh.
> 
> Well, I asked about Quarq explicitly, but basically the generic question is if a longer (177.5/180) cranks would fit Crux frame. I guess geometry has not changed for 2014, so there should be somebody out there who rides 58/61 Crux with cranks longer than stock 175???


If you do test a 58 Tarmac, compare stack and reach between Crux and 58 Tarmac just so you have and exact comparison. You can't go by head tube length for example because cross bikes generally have about a 30mm taller fork crown to axle dimension to accommodate taller/higher volume tires.

As to Q factor related to a slightly longer crank length, I believe the best you would be best serviced, writing an email to Specialized tech support...perhaps Sram first to get their exact specs. My personal view is there should be no problem. Sram makes a couple of different Quarq cranks...you need to make sure if its BB30 or longer spindle threaded BB crank which has a wider Q factor...or should.

Coming off mtb, with your long legs, you may have ridden longer cranks. Keep in mind that cross and road a a bit different and that higher cadence and more sustained cadence riding is more common and some ride a bit shorter length cranks for the road versus mtb. Crank length is often debated and really personal preference at the end of the day. I even communicated with the late great Sheldon Brown about this before his unfortunate passing. He was about our size and always preferred shorter cranks stating there was no native advantage of longer cranks and all they did was promote knee and hip problems. This of course opposes what Zinn believes and others. This is one of the rare areas I disagreed with the cycling legend on as well. I ride 175's and love them. Lance also rode 175's and has shorter legs. I believe with your inseam which is an inch longer than mine....you have very long legs for you height...177.5's would be fine if not a good target.

Have fun.
PS: a last note is...unless you plan on riding your Crux more on dirt than on pavement and running over 28c, I personally would get a Roubaix instead. This is because a Roubaix can be shod with 28c's...you could put a fractionally wider rim on it and run tire pressures down a bit to prevent pinch flats and the Roubaix is a faster bike than the Crux on the road. So pick your weapon carefully to preclude any buyer's remorse. I own a Roubaix for the road and a rigid 29er 1 x 9 for single track and town riding for example. Btw, it is a fast bike. To me a cross bike is too in between unless you plan on racing cross. Just my opinion. On the road...even if the road is dirt, I want the fastest bike with a smooth ride which is the Roubaix. If riding gravel and more knarly trails, a 32c tire with light knob is better. Only reason to get a cross is if you feel you must run a 32mm tire width and a bit of knob for more punishing riding. To me a 29er is better for this style of riding. My opinion.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> If you do test a 58 Tarmac, compare stack and reach between Crux and 58 Tarmac just so you have and exact comparison. You can't go by head tube length for example because cross bikes generally have about a 30mm taller fork crown to axle dimension to accommodate taller/higher volume tires.
> 
> 
> As to Q factor related to a slightly longer crank length, I believe the best you would be best serviced, writing an email to Specialized tech support...perhaps Sram first to get their exact specs. My personal view is there should be no problem. Sram makes a couple of different Quarq cranks...you need to make sure if its BB30 or longer spindle threaded BB crank which has a wider Q factor...or should.
> ...



Yet again, you raised very valid points.


Basically, what I want is primarily carbon road bike with SRAM hydro brakes around 8.5kgs. (I like SRAM for some odd reason and I prefer all my bikes to have SRAM. It's easier to service that way).
I plan on riding 25c clinchers and maybe 28c/32c for off season winter months (though, I would likely leave my new shiny carbon bike at home in winter and use my hybrid bike for that.


I am rather heavy guy (90kgs body weight) and I like to attack short climbs aggresively and sprint from time to time (I am not a real sprinter, I can produce ~1200W), so I am looking for a stiffer bike.


There is very few options out there that would be reasonably priced (~4k).


Initially, I thought of getting a BB30 compatible frameset only and building a bike myself around SRAM Force (I do not need Red), because I already own decent wheels (that I use on my hybrid now),
but only reasonably priced frame I found is Volagi, but I have my doubts about that one, because I seem to fall in between 57 and 60 size there and I am worried it may not be stiff enough, when I want to go aggressive from time to time.


So I started to look at CX bikes as an alternative and there are more frame options out there. Crux Expert Red is pretty much the exact match from what I need price wise and specs wise (and I would not have to build the bike myself).


Roubaix would definitely be a great bike for me, but the frame only is too expensive and the only bike that would tick most of the boxes is "ROUBAIX SL4 SPORT SRAM DISC",
it is under speced, but cheaper what I am willing to spend, so I could upgrade some parts... I am a bit worried if 8r carbon frame of this Roubaix would be stiff enough for me (compared to 10r Crux) ???


Do not get me started on crank sizes I spent a lot of time researching it before I decided to replace 175 (which I found perfectly ok) with 177.5 when I got my powermeter.
There is a lot of theories out there (and I read Sheldon's take on it too), nevertheless I decided to go 177.5 (which was the very conservative length for my legs) and I am very happy.
I can still spin 90-100 easily and that is my sweet spot.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Every bike has trade offs for sure. If you get the Roubaix, get the one with 10r carbon. You are a performance rider and a big guy and will appreciate the stiffness of the frame. I ride a 10r Roubaix Pro SL3 and it is the best road bike I have ever owned...and I have owned 50 bikes. The SL4 Roubaix is even stiffer. You will have to decide if you need the disk brakes. I like disk brakes btw but for road riding, prefer caliper. If you feel you need the 32c tires for certain riding scenarios, then get the Crux. If you feel you can live with the 28c tires and don't absolutely need disk...then get the Roubaix...or spring for the pricey Sworks Roubaix disk. Crux is a very nice bike...it just won't have the road performance of a lighter Roubaix.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> Every bike has trade offs for sure. If you get the Roubaix, get the one with 10r carbon. You are a performance rider and a big guy and will appreciate the stiffness of the frame. I ride a 10r Roubaix Pro SL3 and it is the best road bike I have ever owned...and I have owned 50 bikes. The SL4 Roubaix is even stiffer. You will have to decide if you need the disk brakes. I like disk brakes btw but for road riding, prefer caliper. If you feel you need the 32c tires for certain riding scenarios, then get the Crux. If you feel you can live with the 28c tires and don't absolutely need disk...then get the Roubaix...or spring for the pricey Sworks Roubaix disk. Crux is a very nice bike...it just won't have the road performance of a lighter Roubaix.


Thanks again for help. I will have to decide now


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Thanks again for help. I will have to decide now


Basically, your decision is what each of have to decide. What will the bike be used for...knowing that no bike is all things. If you buy a bike like the Crux, the give up will be on the road if/when you are hammering with strong riders. Honestly, this is mostly the reason why I would choose a Roubaix over a Crux as an all arounder...because my ratio to dirt versus road is far in favor of road...and with fast guys and I want the fastest bike. For you, it maybe more rough and tumble riding and therefore the Crux would be a better bike. If you put 25c tires on the Crux, with your power, it will still be a fast bike...just heavier and less aero than a Roubaix.
Today, it has never been more difficult to decide which bike because there are so many great bikes now on the market. The Endurance genre of bike like the Roubaix, Domane, Synapse, etc have really changed the landscape because of their versatility. Prior to say 2005, carbon bikes most fit 25c tires maximum and even some not even that including a Look I owned. 
No bad choices, just different.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> Basically, your decision is what each of have to decide. What will the bike be used for...knowing that no bike is all things. If you buy a bike like the Crux, the give up will be on the road if/when you are hammering with strong riders. Honestly, this is mostly the reason why I would choose a Roubaix over a Crux as an all arounder...because my ratio to dirt versus road is far in favor of road...and with fast guys and I want the fastest bike. For you, it maybe more rough and tumble riding and therefore the Crux would be a better bike. If you put 25c tires on the Crux, with your power, it will still be a fast bike...just heavier and less aero than a Roubaix.
> Today, it has never been more difficult to decide which bike because there are so many great bikes now on the market. The Endurance genre of bike like the Roubaix, Domane, Synapse, etc have really changed the landscape because of their versatility. Prior to say 2005, carbon bikes most fit 25c tires maximum and even some not even that including a Look I owned.
> No bad choices, just different.


True. As I was once said, it's stressful to choose from more than 3 options.
I am huge believer in disc braked, so I will ponder about these option only:

1.) Crux Red Disc
2.) Get Roubaix S-Works disc frameset (the same price as Crux bike!) and build my bike around it 
3.) Wait and see what happens next year when I believe more manufactures will join in with hydro brakes

Having said that, I am impatient and I have very little time to do more important stuff than build a bike, hence will likely end up with Crux and never look back and be happy. After all I have nothing to compare it with

And I have to start getting up to shape for L'etape Du Tour for June'14. Tourmalet is waiting ...


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> True. As I was once said, it's stressful to choose from more than 3 options.
> I am huge believer in disc braked, so I will ponder about these option only:
> 
> 1.) Crux Red Disc
> ...


You say you have more important stuff to do then to build a bike? What are you doing here? I don't buy off the rack because I don't like factory bike spec's...my Roubaix is built with Campy and the only thing Specialized on the bike is the frame and saddle which is 155mm.

It takes 2 hours to build a bike, you get what you want, don't have to pay exorbitant bike shop prices for components, don't have to travel there and deal with their crappy build quality and inability to tune the bike properly. Most that don't build their own bikes, can't or they wouldn't deal with bike shops which take more time than parts delivered to your house and putting a bike together.


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## Duke249 (Apr 4, 2002)

Ritchie 75, I sent you a PM


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks for the PM. You guys are making such a good points that I should go back to rethink my fixation on disc brakes on a road bike. If I gave it up, it would open a whole new world to me


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> You say you have more important stuff to do then to build a bike? What are you doing here? I don't buy off the rack because I don't like factory bike spec's...my Roubaix is built with Campy and the only thing Specialized on the bike is the frame and saddle which is 155mm.
> 
> It takes 2 hours to build a bike, you get what you want, don't have to pay exorbitant bike shop prices for components, don't have to travel there and deal with their crappy build quality and inability to tune the bike properly. Most that don't build their own bikes, can't or they wouldn't deal with bike shops which take more time than parts delivered to your house and putting a bike together.


Well, I service my bikes, for the same reasons as you state (incompetent staff at bike shops), but I never actually built one for myself. I am sure I could do it, I am just a bit hesitant because I know it would take me much more than 2 hours 

A few more posts from you, and I will building myself a Roubaix (especially if I could get a decent price on 2013 frameset)


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Well, I service my bikes, for the same reasons as you state (incompetent staff at bike shops), but I never actually built one for myself. I am sure I could do it, I am just a bit hesitant because I know it would take me much more than 2 hours
> 
> A few more posts from you, and I will building myself a Roubaix (especially if I could get a decent price on 2013 frameset)


A lot of guys on this site build their bikes because they enjoy it. We're bike nuts.  Not much to it really. Harder to tune a Ferrari or adjust the valves on a Ducati...discussed before on here.  
Unless you want to deal with the grief of having a shop improperly install BB30, you will save a boat load of time and money doing it yourself and it will be done right once you learn how. Cutting a carbon steerer just takes a bit of care...not hard. A good home mechanic does things like uses a Park derailleur alignment tool for every fresh build. You don't get this attention at a bike shop and why so many bikes don't shift right. Getting wheel hub preload takes a bit of care as well. There really is a difference between a well built bike and one throw together.
The Crux versus Roubaix decision isn't that tough. Really depends on the ratio of dirt or rougher riding to paved roads you do. If mostly paved and the dirt you ride on is pretty smooth, get the Roubaix or if strong and flexible even a Tarmac.
Btw, you can pick up a 1 year old Roubaix frameset off ebay...a SL3 or Sworks for a fraction of retail and can build a high spec bike with the latest schwag for much less than shop prices. As you get into bikes, your tastes refine and like a given handlebar shape...I like a carbon handlebar...type of bar tape...seatpost with a certain setback and flex etc.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> A lot of guys on this site build their bikes because they enjoy it. We're bike nuts.  Not much to it really. Harder to tune a Ferrari or adjust the valves on a Ducati...discussed before on here.
> Unless you want to deal with the grief of having a shop improperly install BB30, you will save a boat load of time and money doing it yourself and it will be done right once you learn how. Cutting a carbon steerer just takes a bit of care...not hard. A good home mechanic does things like uses a Park derailleur alignment tool for every fresh build. You don't get this attention at a bike shop and why so many bikes don't shift right. Getting wheel hub preload takes a bit of care as well. There really is a difference between a well built bike and one throw together.
> The Crux versus Roubaix decision isn't that tough. Really depends on the ratio of dirt or rougher riding to paved roads you do. If mostly paved and the dirt you ride on is pretty smooth, get the Roubaix or if strong and flexible even a Tarmac.
> Btw, you can pick up a 1 year old Roubaix frameset off ebay...a SL3 or Sworks for a fraction of retail and can build a high spec bike with the latest schwag for much less than shop prices. As you get into bikes, your tastes refine and like a given handlebar shape...I like a carbon handlebar...type of bar tape...seatpost with a certain setback and flex etc.


You are right there are some nice deals on SL3 framesets. DO you know is there any difference between 2011 vs. 2012 SL3 ?


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> You are right there are some nice deals on SL3 framesets. DO you know is there any difference between 2011 vs. 2012 SL3 ?


I believe the SL3 Roubaix came out in 2011 and was pretty much unchanged throughout 2012. I have a 2012 Roubaix SL3 Pro with 10r carbon in charcoal and absolutely love the bike. Its a size 58 and likely the size you would prefer as well. It has a threaded BB btw...one of the reasons I chose it because I wanted to build with Campy. I would of gone off the rack honestly like you are considering, but thought that all the groupsets at the time...DA, Ultegra and Red were substandard to Campy which they were. New DA, Ultegra and Red are a different story...all have been redesigned and new 11s stuff is excellent and will give Campy a run for the money in ergonomics and shift quality.

There is a bit more. Reports are coming in on the new Roubaix SL4 and a bit of a mixed bag compared to the SL3 Roubaix which really was a watershed bike within the endurance genre...a dramatic improvement to previous generation SL2. Specialized took the SL4 Roubaix more in the direction of the Tarmac and stiffened up the rear of the bike and many believe they took it too far. So depends on the kind of riding you do.
For this reason, I am in no hurry to get a SL4 Roubaix to replace my frameset. A nice find on ebay btw would be either a SL3 Pro like I have...and I have seen them on ebay...or a Sworks SL3 frameset. Keep in mind, that the Sworks bikes have Specialized version of PF30. This is part of the calculus for you because you want a Quarq. Also what is happening is...for 2014, Speicialized is moving more away from English threaded BB's and more toward BB30 and their version of PF30 for their Sworks bikes.

Bottom line is...for purists aka particular cyclists with honed tastes and preferences, buying a complete bike is pretty limiting versus building a bike with the particular qualities you prefer as a fussy guy will end up changing everthing anyway.
My bike below in a bit earlier form:


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> I believe the SL3 Roubaix came out in 2011 and was pretty much unchanged throughout 2012. I have a 2012 Roubaix SL3 Pro with 10r carbon in charcoal and absolutely love the bike. Its a size 58 and likely the size you would prefer as well. It has a threaded BB btw...one of the reasons I chose it because I wanted to build with Campy. I would of gone off the rack honestly like you are considering, but thought that all the groupsets at the time...DA, Ultegra and Red were substandard to Campy which they were. New DA, Ultegra and Red are a different story...all have been redesigned and new 11s stuff is excellent and will give Campy a run for the money in ergonomics and shift quality.
> 
> There is a bit more. Reports are coming in on the new Roubaix SL4 and a bit of a mixed bag compared to the SL3 Roubaix which really was a watershed bike within the endurance genre...a dramatic improvement to previous generation SL2. Specialized took the SL4 Roubaix more in the direction of the Tarmac and stiffened up the rear of the bike and many believe they took it too far. So depends on the kind of riding you do.
> For this reason, I am in no hurry to get a SL4 Roubaix to replace my frameset. A nice find on ebay btw would be either a SL3 Pro like I have...and I have seen them on ebay...or a Sworks SL3 frameset. Keep in mind, that the Sworks bikes have Specialized version of PF30. This is part of the calculus for you because you want a Quarq. Also what is happening is...for 2014, Speicialized is moving more away from English threaded BB's and more toward BB30 and their version of PF30 for their Sworks bikes.
> ...


That is one hell of a nice bike!!! What bars are those?

I found two nice deals for S-Works SL3 one is for 2011 and one for 2012.
The 2011 one is fractionally cheaper and the nice white/red/black color the 2012 comes without seat post and is black/yellow (I do not like yellow) and I love red 

I was under impression that SL3 had OSBB which would fit BB30 crankset with some wheelsmfg adapters. Or am I wrong ?

2011: Press-in OSBB cups w/ ceramic bearings
2012: Press-in OSBB cups w/ ceramic bearings and 24mm converters 

I suppose both could fit BB30, well I was going to shop anyway if they would be willing to ship to me.

Anyway, if I decide to go Roubaix I will get Red22, not decided yet is regular rim brakes or hydro R's. Not so sure on the wheels yet, I'd need some that would withstand some rough riding and my 90kgs.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> That is one hell of a nice bike!!! What bars are those?
> 
> I found two nice deals for S-Works SL3 one is for 2011 and one for 2012.
> The 2011 one is fractionally cheaper and the nice white/red/black color the 2012 comes without seat post and is black/yellow (I do not like yellow) and I love red
> ...


As it turns out, frame color is important...at least how I feel, so I would lean toward the 2011 Sworks SL3 Roubaix.
The naming convention and design of the Sworks BB's is a bit confusing.
When I say Specialized narrow version of PF30, that is what the Sworks bikes is. The shell measures 61mm across and is a PF30 interface. Specialized calls this 'carbon OSBB'. That is their nomenclature which confuses the crap out of most people. They call BB30 'alloy OSBB'...which btw is industry standard BB30. So what crank do you mount to a Sworks bike? A standard BB30 crank...or a longer spindle crank like DA with adapters. Is a BB30 crank plug and play on a 61mm wide shell Sworks bike? Yes. Why? Because the press in delrin bushings Specialized uses for their Sworks bikes has 3.5mm lip on it. 2 X 3.5mm =7mm + 61mm =68mm which is standard PF/BB30. 
So Specialized is a bit 'cute' about 'their' version of PF30 aka carbon OSBB.

In summary, don't be daunted by the BB on Sworks bikes. There are many different BB and crank options to mount effectively to Specialized flagship Sworks bikes. If you find a good price on a Sworks Roubaix SL3in your size and color you like...buy it and build the bike you want around that frame. New Red22 is said to be excellent btw as you likely know. A suggestion for wheels is one of the wider alloy rim options which are really taking over the industry promoting a lower profile tire height for improved aerodynamics (fractional) wider tire contact patch for handling...and lower tire pressures without pinch flats for a smoother ride on rougher road.

Have fun.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

Things have the tendency to sort themselves out, so it happened this time. The Crux in 58 is not available until late April 2014 and I found a very good deal on 2012 S-Works Roubaix SL3 frameset. So let the bike building project begin 

Thank you for very valuable ideas!


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Things have the tendency to sort themselves out, so it happened this time. The Crux in 58 is not available until late April 2014 and I found a very good deal on 2012 S-Works Roubaix SL3 frameset. So let the bike building project begin
> 
> Thank you for very valuable ideas!


You are gonna love the Sworks SL3 Roubaix. It is outstanding...a very close cousin to the SL3 Pro I ride but the Sworks is the Mac Daddy nameplate of the Specialized line with 11r carbon. This particular frame may even be favored to the new SL4 Roubaix because the SL4 is being revealed now as very stiff over rough road and the SL3 Sworks is a race bike but with slightly muted ride. Still a very stiff race bike btw which won the Roubaix race...chosen for its ride quality...an uncanny combination really.

I hope you share your build with the forum and come back with any questions you may have about the build. I maybe able to help as I know that bike very well.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

roadworthy said:


> You are gonna love the Sworks SL3 Roubaix. It is outstanding...a very close cousin to the SL3 Pro I ride but the Sworks is the Mac Daddy nameplate of the Specialized line with 11r carbon. This particular frame may even be favored to the new SL4 Roubaix because the SL4 is being revealed now as very stiff over rough road and the SL3 Sworks is a race bike but with slightly muted ride. Still a very stiff race bike btw which won the Roubaix race...chosen for its ride quality...an uncanny combination really.
> 
> I hope you share your build with the forum and come back with any questions you may have about the build. I maybe able to help as I know that bike very well.


Haha

I have so many unanswered questions already, but I want to wait and see when I get the frame, maybe that would answer some of those right away 

The top prio on my list of them is if I will be able to internally route hose of Sram Red Hydro R brakes? 'Cause the frame is designed around mechanical brakes with cable stops. I'm hopping I can somehow "cut" the stops and push the whole hose through the top tube 

Will I need a seatpost with setback or not (I like Syntace P6 HiFlex which comes with no setback)?

If steerer tube is uncut, what length should I go for, what headset, stem is easy (Syntace F109), but what length (at least I have 10cm one to initially try)?

Shall I get 44cm handlebar or 46cm handlebar (my shoulders are wide 50-52cm)? 

Tubeless or tube (Well this one is easy Stan's 340 are not available here with 11sp hub, so HED Ardennes CL looks like a very nice alternative)?

And I could go on. See this is going to be an interesting project, but well I have the whole winter to kill


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Haha
> 
> I have so many unanswered questions already, but I want to wait and see when I get the frame, maybe that would answer some of those right away
> 
> ...


That's all you got? 
From the top:
Hydro hoses:
You can easily drill out the removal cable stops...plenty of stock and still use the stops and have the hoses pass right through the stops which would be transformed to grommets protecting the holes in the top tube. Will look perfect and not kluged.

Seatpost:
Generic 27.2mm dia post can be used. Specialized did this deliberately. Many different posts will adapt. My personal favorite and the favorite among pros is the FSA Kforce Light...available in 0, 25 and 32mm setback. Comfortable flex, light and carbon. 

Steerer:
Cut off the steerer is pretty easy. Push the fork through the head tube, install the low profile dust cap and about 80mm above that is good. Headset is integrated and proprietary to Specialized and comes with the frame. 40mm of stack under the stem and about 40mm for the stem clamp. Depends on your choice of stem and how aggressive you want to ride. I ride a 130mm stem, size 58 and am 6'1" with long arms.
I always cut a steerer twice after a good couple of months of riding.
Guys our size generally ride with 580mm minimum from saddle tip to handlebar center. Pros our size ride up to 625mm...which is a lot....distance partly achieved by a lot more drop.

Handlebar width...I ride 44, know burly guys who ride 38 to be more aero and also know guys who ride 46. Personal preference.

Wheels: Ardennes would be my choice versus the Stans.

Forget buying off the rack.  Building a custom and better bike for less money is the way to go. FWIW a new SL4 Sworks Roubaix frameset is now $3500. If you got your frame for half that...you stole it.


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

Hey Roadworthy,

it has been a busy week researching and getting good deals on components.
Now all is ordered and on its way to me. Unfortunately, Ardennes are not available anywhere, and I will have to wait 5-6 weeks to get those. It will be very difficult to wait with all the other components laying around ...

Here in Europe, the new S-Works SL4 frame costs 3000EUR, I got my SL3 2012 for almost half of that, 56.7% to be more precise. I could have had SL4 2013 for 2200, but I figured SL3 (though not my ideal color) would be much better fit for me (as you pointed out, less stiff and thus more confy ride) and the extra 500 would let me get better components.

As it is always the case, I went over my 4k budget (though only by 8-10%), you always find so many things, which were not on your initial list, but now you must have them 

So this is what I ended up with:
- 2012 S-Works SL3 frame/fork
- Syntace carbon seatpost and handlebar with F109 stem (I went for 12cm initially)
- Red22 Group (Hydro Rim brakes and WiFLi rear derailleur with 11-32 cassette), no crankset, cause I will use my Quarq
- Nokon Slimline + PowerCordz to try what they are like (a lot of buzz about those)
- HED Ardennes CL wheels (and 25C Schwalbe Durano's for it)

So as things stand now, it really looks like it will be cheaper option than getting a Crux and trying to improve it (which I would definitely end up doing) and obviously much better bike after all. Thanks heaps for pointing that out to me!


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

ritchie75 said:


> Hey Roadworthy,
> 
> it has been a busy week researching and getting good deals on components.
> Now all is ordered and on its way to me. Unfortunately, Ardennes are not available anywhere, and I will have to wait 5-6 weeks to get those. It will be very difficult to wait with all the other components laying around ...
> ...


Awesome. Gonna be an amazing bike Ritchie...one of the best on the planet.  Great choices all around...frame, groupset and wheels.
Be sure to share pics of your build on the forum. Can't wait to hear your riding impressions. Since I own a close cousin to your top of line SWorks frameset, I know you are going to love it.
Cheers from the US...


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## ritchie75 (Nov 20, 2013)

Hey roadworthy,

Just wanted to show you my new bike and thank you again

It's been a long time waiting for my wheels, but they arrived on Monday at last! I had a few busy days building it and I learnt a lot of things along the way. The built was almost trouble-free, but
- while screwing in the top brake cable stop the nut in the frame became loose and now the stop is not perfectly screwed in, and I can't screw it out anymore (if I could I would most likely put some rubber on the hydro hose inside the tube)
- spent 1 day trying to make Nokon work (cables in and out 4 times), but finally it works and it works better than with stock Sram cable housing!
- Power cordz do not work with Nokon, 1.2mm is too wide for Nokon liner

So far I am extremely happy with the bike, it's going to be very long 8-10 weeks before I will be able to take it for a spin ...

So here it is:









The bike is exactly 8kgs with my Garmin 510 on it (or 7.8 with lighter tubes and 23mm tires), well good enough for me, I estimate it would be rather easy to get it down to 7.2-7.4 kgs with lighter wheels (Ardennes CL are 1650g), pedals (I use Shimano SPD, which are on heavier side) and Red non-WiFLi cassette instead of Force WiFLi one, but that's something for my racing future


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