# What would you do? New budget bike, older "better" bike, or vintage?



## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

So, as a total newbie, still riding a mountain bike with drop ends :mad2: I'm looking around to get an idea of what's out there.
Let's say you had a 200$ budget (only for the bike, leave everything else out) (and I know your wheels probably cost more than that, but hey, we do what we can), which route would you go?
1 - Superbudget roadbike, thinking a base Vilano in this case, or maybe a Denali bike?? (Please take it easy on me)
2 - older better bike, talking around 10 years older, I see some Cannondales in the 200$ range, might need minor work, and even if I don't know much about bike, I can handle mechanical work on my Harley and even car, so I could probably do most of it myself
3 - Go vintage. I saw a few 80s Schwinns that fit, especially a super sweet 83 Schwinn Le Tour 27 locally for under 200$, all original minus the tires.

Opened to other options as well, unfortunately this is the situation at the moment. I am a "weekend" rider, might start going out on a daily basis, but it would always be for short rides, maybe an hour a day only for fun/exercise.

Not sure this matters, but I'm at 184lbs and I'm 511.

Thank you all!!


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

For very low budget, option #2 is the best IMO. However, you really should scrimp and save and up that budget a couple hundred bucks. Then at ~$500 you could actually end up with quite a bit of bike from 10 years ago that will still be a great bike. Say you end up with Ultegra 6600 or something on it, smooth shifting stuff.

Back in 2011, I got a 2007 bike with Dura-Ace 7800 for about $700-800. Used deals are out there.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

$200? Did you forget a zero? Pretty hard to get a decent set of wheels for $200. I think what Mr. Jetdog advised would be the best option. The difference between a $200 Schwinn boat anchor with six speed down tube shifting and a more modern, even 10+ year old used bike would be huge.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

pmf said:


> $200? Did you forget a zero? Pretty hard to get a decent set of wheels for $200. I think what Mr. Jetdog advised would be the best option. The difference between a $200 Schwinn boat anchor with six speed down tube shifting and a more modern, even 10+ year old used bike would be huge.


Love the "boat anchor" part... Lmao.. 


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Agree with jetdog9. Of the listed options, #2 is the best. But I suggest continuing with your present ride and save another $200 or so. The difference in the bike will be appreciable. Plus, you'll find that low end/ sub-par bikes can be money pits, so long term, waiting and spending a bit more could _save_ you some $$.

As an example of what $400 (+ -) could get you, my '08 Spec Tarmac with 105 is worth around that, and still runs great. Solid bike. So, save a bit, I think you'll be glad you did.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Best deal I found so far ( I think) is a Cannondale R600 for 325$ with very little use

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Best deal I found so far ( I think) is a Cannondale R600 for 325$ with very little use
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Might be worth a look. Just make sure it fits before purchasing. Ideally, have a LBS check it over mechanically and for fit.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

I agree with everyone so far. In that price range, the best bang for the buck by far is the 10-15 year old used bike, IF you shop carefully and don't overpay, and get a bike that fits you. It's a big plus that you're mechanically adept and not afraid to learn to do stuff.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

JCavilia said:


> I agree with everyone so far. In that price range, the best bang for the buck by far is the 10-15 year old used bike, IF you shop carefully and don't overpay, and get a bike that fits you. It's a big plus that you're mechanically adept and not afraid to learn to do stuff.


I have a 1988 Harley that the dealerships wouldn't touch even if their lives depended on it.. 

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## chudak (Jul 28, 2012)

pmf said:


> $200? Did you forget a zero? Pretty hard to get a decent set of wheels for $200. I think what Mr. Jetdog advised would be the best option. The difference between a $200 Schwinn boat anchor with six speed down tube shifting and a more modern, even 10+ year old used bike would be huge.


Yeah, even the crappiest schwinn on CL is for sale for $200. You'd have to double (or triple) your budget to have any reasonable chance of getting something worthwhile unless you score the deal of the century.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

chudak said:


> Yeah, even the crappiest schwinn on CL is for sale for $200. You'd have to double (or triple) your budget to have any reasonable chance of getting something worthwhile unless you score the deal of the century.


Snobbish nonsense, IMHO. Yes the crappiest Schwinn will often be $200, but so often will be a pretty good entry-level road bike that sold for 500-600 bucks ten years ago, and is going cheap because it needs work that would cost $100 at a shop, but that a clever home mechanic can do for $20.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

chudak said:


> Yeah, even the crappiest schwinn on CL is for sale for $200. You'd have to double (or triple) your budget to have any reasonable chance of getting something worthwhile unless you score the deal of the century.


I also found a 10 years old Cannondale R300 for 220$. It was a bit rough but in working condition. I would also love to have a project, unless is not rideable.. 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

JCavilia said:


> Snobbish nonsense, IMHO. Yes the crappiest Schwinn will often be $200, but so often will be a pretty good entry-level road bike that sold for 500-600 bucks ten years ago, and is going cheap because it needs work that would cost $100 at a shop, but that a clever home mechanic can do for $20.


I do understand the point of view. I would also rather spend more upfront and have a better product, but it just won't happen right now. If a 200 $ one will even last 2 years (remember I don't do heavy riding) I would be happy. 

I'm also the kind of guy that is happy with what he can afford 😊😊

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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I do understand the point of view. I would also rather spend more upfront and have a better product, but it just won't happen right now. If a 200 $ one will even last 2 years (remember I don't do heavy riding) I would be happy.
> 
> I'm also the kind of guy that is happy with what he can afford 😊😊
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


You sound very sensible. Happy shopping, and happy riding to you.

I have a pretty good road bike (nowhere the latest-and-greatest top-of-the-line, but decent), but the bike I ride most is a fixed gear that I built up from a variety of parts, some old and some new, on a frame that I bought for $5 at a garage sale. I may have ultimately spent $200 on it, but I commute on it probably 150 days a year, and I've probably ridden 20,000 miles on it. It still rides great. I like fixing up old stuff and keeping it working.

Working on bikes will be a piece of cake for you. There are lots of resources online to learn the details (including this forum). You might have to buy a couple of special tools, but that's a small investment. Have fun.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

JCavilia said:


> You sound very sensible. Happy shopping, and happy riding to you.
> 
> I have a pretty good road bike (nowhere the latest-and-greatest top-of-the-line, but decent), but the bike I ride most is a fixed gear that I built up from a variety of parts, some old and some new, on a frame that I bought for $5 at a garage sale. I may have ultimately spent $200 on it, but I commute on it probably 150 days a year, and I've probably ridden 20,000 miles on it. It still rides great. I like fixing up old stuff and keeping it working.
> 
> Working on bikes will be a piece of cake for you. There are lots of resources online to learn the details (including this forum). You might have to buy a couple of special tools, but that's a small investment. Have fun.


Thank you. 
I never thought about a fixed gear, I wonder if it could be good for me.. 

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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I also found a 10 years old Cannondale R300 for 220$. It was a bit rough but in working condition. I would also love to have a project, unless is not rideable..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


A Cannondale R300 is a lot older than 10 years. Weren't they making the CAAD 17 10 years ago? I bought a R400 new in 1992 and that was when their top level bike was an R600 I believe. I always hated that bike. It was aluminum and had a really rough ride. At the time, it seemed light. Is it the dreaded 3.0 frame? It's going to be 7 speed. If you buy something like that, and think you're going to fix it up, you'll end up spending a lot more than if you bought something better in the first place. There's this term that applies -- I think its 'polishing a turd'. 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

pmf said:


> A Cannondale R300 is a lot older than 10 years. Weren't they making the CAAD 17 10 years ago? I bought a R400 new in 1992 and that was when their top level bike was an R600 I believe. I always hated that bike. It was aluminum and had a really rough ride. At the time, it seemed light. Is it the dreaded 3.0 frame? It's going to be 7 speed. If you buy something like that, and think you're going to fix it up, you'll end up spending a lot more than if you bought something better in the first place. There's this term that applies -- I think its 'polishing a turd'.
> 
> sent from my PC using the keyboard


Caad 2 actually. 
I underestimated the age... LoL 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I have a 1988 Harley that the dealerships wouldn't touch even if their lives depended on it..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


... then you'll have NO problem working on bikes. BUT... as someone else alluded to, get something already dated (7 spd, for example) and you're pretty much stuck with the bike 'as is', replacing parts one for one - little or no upgrades. 

Just something to keep in mind.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I never thought about a fixed gear, I wonder if it could be good for me..


Depends, on many things, especially the terrain you'll be riding in, and your experience and desires.

Specifically, if it's not pretty flat where you'll be riding, you probably won't be happy with a fixed gear or single speed. Fixed-gear riding is also kind of an acquired taste, and many people don't like it at all. But it's easy to change a FG to a freewheeling SS if you don't like the never-coasting thing.

But the hills, or lack thereof, are the first question.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

JCavilia said:


> Depends, on many things, especially the terrain you'll be riding in, and your experience and desires.
> 
> Specifically, if it's not pretty flat where you'll be riding, you probably won't be happy with a fixed gear or single speed. Fixed-gear riding is also kind of an acquired taste, and many people don't like it at all. But it's easy to change a FG to a freewheeling SS if you don't like the never-coasting thing.
> 
> But the hills, or lack thereof, are the first question.


Got it. 
Like using a prime lens in photography, I love it but nobody else can use my camera to take pictures which means I'm never in any pictures... LoL 

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## smokersteve (May 22, 2016)

Option 2 gets the best bang for your buck.
I bought my son a $300 Villano years ago - what a piece of junk.
I just bought my daughter a 2010 Trek 2.1 with 105 for $400 - great bike for the $. 
A couple years ago I bought a 2008 Orbea Onix for $600 which I like as much as my $3500 bike
In my area there are a lot of bikes on Craigslist...you just have to check often


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

smokersteve said:


> Option 2 gets the best bang for your buck.
> I bought my son a $300 Villano years ago - what a piece of junk.
> I just bought my daughter a 2010 Trek 2.1 with 105 for $400 - great bike for the $.
> A couple years ago I bought a 2008 Orbea Onix for $600 which I like as much as my $3500 bike
> In my area there are a lot of bikes on Craigslist...you just have to check often


Yeah there is a pattern here. 
The real issue with that is my lack of knowledge of which are good brands to look for. I guess I have to keep searching and come back here to ask when something looks like a good candidate. 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

And then of course, the perfect bike shows up as you guys mentioned, but in the wrong size.. 
http://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/5710285062.html


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> And then of course, the perfect bike shows up as you guys mentioned, but in the wrong size..
> Specialized roubaix Size M
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


I'm not promoting that you buy an ill sized bike, but depending on how your 5' 11" frame is proportioned, a 'M' in Specialized may work for you. 

If you're interested, go check it out and test ride it. Again, as I posted earlier, _before purchasing_, bring the bike to a reputable LBS for mechanical/ fit assessment.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> I'm not promoting that you buy an ill sized bike, but depending on how your 5' 11" frame is proportioned, a 'M' in Specialized may work for you.
> 
> If you're interested, go check it out and test ride it. Again, as I posted earlier, _before purchasing_, bring the bike to a reputable LBS for mechanical/ fit assessment.


I emailed the person, if they ever get back to me I'll take a look.
I ran a fit test, and the frame looks literally 2 cms too small, and of course my measurements are not 100% accurate, since I was measuring myself. 

This is what came out:

<section class="results-summary js-results-summary fit-section" style="display: inline; box-sizing: border-box; float: left; padding-left: 10px; padding-right: 10px; width: 333px; margin-bottom: 20px; min-height: 430px; font-family: "Proxima N W01 Reg", sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px;">Top Tube Length
56.6 - 57 Cm​
Seat Tube Range CC
53.5 - 54 Cm​
Seat Tube Range CT
55.1 - 55.6 Cm​
Stem Length
11.7 - 12.3 Cm​
BB Saddle Position
73.9 - 75.9 Cm​
Saddle Handlebar
55.5 - 56.1 Cm​
Saddle Setback
4.6 - 5 Cm​
Seatpost Type
Not Setback​</section><section id="fit-geometry" class="fit-geometry" style="display: inline; box-sizing: border-box; float: left; padding-left: 10px; padding-right: 10px; width: 666px; font-family: "Proxima N W01 Reg", sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px;"></section>


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I'm not a fan of those online fit calculators (if that's what you used). 

If you measure your _cycling_ inseam, we can get an idea of how you're proportioned.

· Stand with your back against a wall and spread your feet 6-8" apart.
· Place a book between your legs and up against the wall, spine up; raise it until snug against your crotch (this mimics your bike seat).
· Have another person measure from the top of the book (spine) down to the floor.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> I'm not a fan of those online fit calculators (if that's what you used).
> 
> If you measure your _cycling_ inseam, we can get an idea of how you're proportioned.
> 
> ...


Yeah.. Looks like a 32.5

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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Yeah.. Looks like a 32.5
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


the rule of thumb I've always heard is to measure your inseam in centimeters and multiply by 2/3 to get the right size c-c seat tube. 32.5*2.54*0.67=55 cm. That bike is 54 cm (says on one of the pics of the head tube). Top tube is 54.8. I ride 56 cm bikes, but I can easily fit on a 55 cm (in fact, one of my bikes is 55 cm). I'm not as tall as you are, but I have long arms and legs. 

That bike looks too small for whoever owns it. There's a lot of seat post showing and the stem is pretty long and set upright (looks like a 17 degree stem). It may well fit you, and for $200 is a pretty good deal. A different stem doesn't cost much as does a new chain which it needs.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

pmf said:


> the rule of thumb I've always heard is to measure your inseam in centimeters and multiply by 2/3 to get the right size c-c seat tube. 32.5*2.54*0.67=55 cm. That bike is 54 cm (says on one of the pics of the head tube). Top tube is 54.8. I ride 56 cm bikes, but I can easily fit on a 55 cm (in fact, one of my bikes is 55 cm). I'm not as tall as you are, but I have long arms and legs.
> 
> That bike looks too small for whoever owns it. There's a lot of seat post showing and the stem is pretty long and set upright (looks like a 17 degree stem). It may well fit you, and for $200 is a pretty good deal. A different stem doesn't cost much as does a new chain which it needs.


That is what I was thinking. Hopefully I get an answer.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Well, bike is sold, let's move on to the next one...


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Well, bike is sold, let's move on to the next one...


Which would be this one...
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5693041623.html
I think it has a Shimano 105 as well, correct?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Which would be this one...
> https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5693041623.html
> I think it has a Shimano 105 as well, correct?


I'm not sure the owner has the year right (see below for image), but I'd say it's worth checking out. 

Try before you buy - and make sure the bike fits. 

2001 Specialized Allez A1 Sport Triple - New and Used Bike Value


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

yup, looks like a 2000
2000 Specialized Allez A1 Sport Triple - New and Used Bike Value

could've been a leftover bought in 2001, but it doesn't matter.
This one is a 56 frame, which should fit better, but yes, will definitely go over and try it before I buy (maybe talk him down a notch)..


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/5654799150.html
Is it really worth this much? 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> camandale bike
> Is it really worth this much?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Not to me. I wouldn't even ride a bike with that stem set up.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I thought it would be quite easy to get ride of that riser, wouldn't it?
He wants 325 for it..


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

I think it's a little old. I would shoot for 2005 or later. And who knows how well it was taken care of if the owner thinks it's a "Camandale" (which he misspelled twice).

Nice for its time but that bike is circa 1999, you don't want to mess with the older 1" threaded headset/stem/fork setup there.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

jetdog9 said:


> I think it's a little old. I would shoot for 2005 or later. And who knows how well it was taken care of if the owner thinks it's a "Camandale" (which he misspelled twice).


I saw that... LoL 
The whole ad is misspelled... LoL 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I saw that... LoL
> The whole ad is misspelled... LoL
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Any updates on that 2000 Spec Allez?


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Any updates on that 2000 Spec Allez?


Unfortunately no answer. 
I found a very nice Raleigh R600 for 250,but it turned out to be a 60cm.

At a stand still. Will keep looking 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

What is the deal with cyclocross bikes? Is just the geometry of the frame? 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> What is the deal with cyclocross bikes? Is just the geometry of the frame?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Generally speaking...

Geo, disc brakes, lower gearing, wider tires...

They're versatile bikes, but fairly new to market, so I'm not sure you'd find something in your price range. 

Also, if you're intended use is paved roads, IMO you'd be better off staying with what you've been looking at. Better suited for that purpose and you'd get more for your money.


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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

BTW I don't know what your search radius is and am not too familiar with East Coast geography/traffic, but there seem to be a lot more craigslist listings in Philadelphia than Central New Jersey...


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

jetdog9 said:


> BTW I don't know what your search radius is and am not too familiar with East Coast geography/traffic, but there seem to be a lot more craigslist listings in Philadelphia than Central New Jersey...


Yeah I noticed that. 
I wish people would at least reply... 


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Anybody knows this bike.?










He said "Yes, I still have it. Price is dropped to $275, it needs a new gear cluster for the new rim, original rim cannot be respoked" 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

If it needs a new cassette, it could also need a new chain and chainring(s). Not saying it does, but this points up the importance of having someone knowledgeable look over the bike before you commit. 

As to the bike, my eyes aren't good enough to provide you with reliable feedback. Maybe another member can help.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I found a few more candidates, working on the prices right now, but in the meantime I would like to know if you think any of these might be a good buy.

Trek 1000
Trek 1000

Trek 1200
Trek 1200 56cm road bike triple
This is one is green, might be a 1998 model

Trek 1.1
bicycle on sale This one is at 350$


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

The second has been deleted by the author, but of the remaining two, I'd check out the Trek 1.1. Newer than the 1000, looks to be in decent shape, lower asking price and you may have some use for the accessories.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> The second has been deleted by the author, but of the remaining two, I'd check out the Trek 1.1. Newer than the 1000, looks to be in decent shape, lower asking price and you may have some use for the accessories.


Well, he agreed to a 300$ deal for the 1.1 but then didn't reply anymore. 

I'll keep you posted, really excited. 

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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

The Raleigh is the "Sport" entry-level bike that sold for about $500 in 2007. In like-new condition, it's worth about $100. Since it has problems and is vastly overpriced even at $275, I'd pass.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

wim said:


> The Raleigh is the "Sport" entry-level bike that sold for about $500 in 2007. In like-new condition, it's worth about $100. Since it has problems and is vastly overpriced, I'd pass.


Yeah, he thought it was worth more, but I passed. 
We agreed on 300 for the 1.1,which is about what bike blue book has it for. 
He's throwing in a bunch of things (tubes, shoes, helmet, pump) so it seems the best deal I found. 
He just hasn't a answered any text messages since 6 pm yesterday. 

We'll see how it goes. People are strange 

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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Alfredo2081 said:


> He's throwing in a bunch of things (tubes, shoes, helmet, pump) so it seems the best deal I found. He just hasn't a answered any text messages since 6 pm yesterday. We'll see how it goes. People are strange


True--you'd think they'd be a little more responsive towards people willing to give them good money.

The 1.1. sounds like a good deal. Looks like the seller is getting out of cycling altogether. He couldn't have been very comfortable on that bike, it's too small for him. Look at that stack of spacers under the upjutter-stem and the seat tilted down in front.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

wim said:


> True--you'd think they'd be a little more responsive towards people willing to give them good money.
> 
> The 1.1. sounds like a good deal. Looks like the seller is getting out of cycling altogether. He couldn't have been very comfortable on that bike, it's too small for him. Look at that stack of spacers under the upjutter-stem and the seat tilted down in front.


He said he works 2 jobs and only used it a handful of times. 
So it's supposed to be in like new condition. I'll see. I know it's a 2012 model 

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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Judging by the helmet, shoes and gloves, there hasn't been much cycling at all in his life. So the bike probably is like new.

Check the top tube for dings. He appears to lean the bike with the top tube against a sharp edge in image 2, which is sort of a no-no with a light-weight bike. Paint scratches are a non-issue, but you don't want a large ding in he middle of the top tube.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

wim said:


> Judging by the helmet, shoes and gloves, there hasn't been much cycling at all in his life. So the bike probably is like new.
> 
> Check the top tube for dings. He appears to lean the bike with the top tube against a sharp edge in image 2, which is sort of a no-no with a light-weight bike. Paint scratches are a non-issue, but you don't want a large ding in he middle of the top tube.


Thank you very much for the pointers. I have no clue what I'm looking at. 

I hope he'll answer! I'm driving my van today and have my heart set on picking it up.. 

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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Good luck on your venture. Keep in mind that these entry level Treks sell quicker and for more money than almost any other entry-level bike. Just in case you want to move up after a while...


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

wim said:


> Good luck on your venture. Keep in mind that these entry level Treks sell quicker and for more money than almost any other entry-level bike. Just in case you want to move up after a while...


Awesome... This is always if the guy answers me... LoL 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Well, I spoke to the guy, he seems like a nice guy.
He really has a crazy schedule, and the only time I can go pick it up is actually Saturday. I usually put in my weekly ride on Saturday morning, I guess I'll have to use my boat anchor, steel mountain bike Saturday morning.

This past Saturday after 14 miles on that thing I was spent, I almost had to push it towards the end (well, I did 30 minutes P90X3 at home, 22 pushups to raise awareness for the veterans, a couple of daily pullups and then I went on the "bike")... LOL... And although other riders wave at me I can tell they look at me weird...

Can't wait to get riding on something that will actually make me enjoy it..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Thank you very much for the pointers. I have no clue what I'm looking at.
> 
> I hope he'll answer! I'm driving my van today and have my heart set on picking it up..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


This may well work out for you, but try to stay objective when you check the bike out. Foremost, try your best to make sure it fits and is comfortable to ride - or that 'boat anchor' won't look so bad after all.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

What are things that I should lookuout for when I try it out? I find myself comfortable leaning forward, I got drop ends on the MTB and always ride on the bottom (pardon if my jargon is not accurate). Even on my Harley I have a handlebar that forces me to lean forward almost in a sport bike manner (I grew up on sport motorcycles).

So, since I'm totally ignorant, how do I know I fit in a few feet of riding?

Thank you very much to all of you, I would be rocking a Vilano, a Merax or a Denali bike (yikes) if it wasn't for you.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> What are things that I should lookuout for when I try it out? I find myself comfortable leaning forward, I got drop ends on the MTB and always ride on the bottom (pardon if my jargon is not accurate). Even on my Harley I have a handlebar that forces me to lean forward almost in a sport bike manner (I grew up on sport motorcycles).
> 
> So, since I'm totally ignorant, how do I know I fit in a few feet of riding?
> 
> Thank you very much to all of you, I would be rocking a Vilano, a Merax or a Denali bike (yikes) if it wasn't for you.


Things to check for are:

- headset (the bars can be turned left/ right with no binding or play)
- crankset (rotates with no binding/ play or noise)
- wheel hubs (rotate smoothly w/ no binding/ play)
- rims - spin to check that they're relatively true
- tires - cracks evident? (if they're original, I'd count on replacing them, along w/ tubes and rim strips).

Regarding fit, you aren't going to tell much of anything from riding a few feet, but you should be test riding much further than that, and (at minimum) adjust the saddle height beforehand.

During your test ride, check for fit (are you comfortable, stretched out, cramped?). Check for functional braking/ shifting, steering and note any noises.

Problems in one or more of these areas aren't necessarily deal breakers, but do indicate that some service will be required - meaning more financial outlay for you, post-purchase. Consider that when making an offer.

If you think the bike fits and you''re interested in it, I would recommend asking the seller to bring it to a reputable LBS to be assessed for mechanical condition as well as fit. While there, you could also ask them for a ball park estimate of the bikes value.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Things to check for are:
> 
> - headset (the bars can be turned left/ right with no binding or play)
> - crankset (rotates with no binding/ play or noise)
> ...


I'll see how it goes. The only thing that makes me nervous is that the guy doesn't know where to look the size of the bike, so that is my main concern. 
He sent me a bunch of pictures, but none of those had the size on them


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I'll see how it goes. The only thing that makes me nervous is that the guy doesn't know where to look the size of the bike, so that is my main concern.
> He sent me a bunch of pictures, but none of those had the size on them


Hard to tell from the pics, but at 5' 11" I doubt the bike will be too large for you. May be too small, though. 

Between now and Saturday you may want to keep the search going, just in case this doesn't work out. 

LBS's sometimes carry used bikes. Food for thought.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Hard to tell from the pics, but at 5' 11" I doubt the bike will be too large for you. May be too small, though.
> 
> Between now and Saturday you may want to keep the search going, just in case this doesn't work out.
> 
> LBS's sometimes carry used bikes. Food for thought.


Thought about that. The current owner is 511 as well, so I think it "should" be the right size, I mean, I hope it isn't a 52, according to the discussion here 54 and 56 would both work, maybe 56 a bit better (your result said the right number to 55). 
Top tube would be 54.3 for the 54, seat tube is 50.6, which means a little over 4cm seat post showing.. Did I understand this or am I totally out of wack?


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Not sure why he sent me these pictures but I figured I would show them to you 



















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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I think he was looking for the size.. LoL 



Alfredo2081 said:


> Not sure why he sent me these pictures but I figured I would show them to you
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk




















Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Thought about that. The current owner is 511 as well, so I think it "should" be the right size, I mean, I hope it isn't a 52, according to the discussion here 54 and 56 would both work, maybe 56 a bit better (your result said the right number to 55).
> Top tube would be 54.3 for the 54, seat tube is 50.6, which means a little over 4cm seat post showing.. Did I understand this or am I totally out of wack?


A couple of thoughts....

If the owner is the same height as you, the bike may well be too small for you. Look at the amount of seat post showing and the spacers under the stem. Looks like he flipped the stem to get the bars raised. 

The more I look at that setup, the less I like it. 

Re: your numbers, I didn't offer that you'd fit on a 55 (there's no standards for measurement, so brands/ sizes vary). But in a Trek, yes, a 54 or 56 would be your ball park frame size - depending on your proportions, flexibility.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Ugh, that was my worry.

So, let me get this straight (Remember this is all new for me) the flipped stem and the spacer under it are telling us that he wanted the handlebar higher, or that his arms couldn't quite reach the handlebar in the stock setup, while the seatpost is telling me that his legs are too long and needed to be further away from the pedals, right?
All this means that the frame might be too small.

Yes, I understand the frame size issue, been doing a lot of research to the point where my head spins and I decided to simply sit on the bike and start pedaling, and if feels right then it's a go... LOL


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Ugh, that was my worry.
> 
> So, let me get this straight (Remember this is all new for me) the flipped stem and the spacer under it are telling us that he wanted the handlebar higher, or that his arms couldn't quite reach the handlebar in the stock setup, while the seatpost is telling me that his legs are too long and needed to be further away from the pedals, right?
> All this means that the frame might be too small.
> ...


Well, first off, I'm not saying what I *think* is fact, but I'm leaning towards this not being the best choice for you, size-wise.

As to your assessment, you nailed it on saddle height. His leg length dictated that (for that frame size) lots of seat post had to be exposed to obtain his saddle height. A good indication the frame is too small for him. 

As to stem spacers and flipped stem, I suspect because of the shorter head tube (again, dictated by a too small frame) he resorted to both to get the bars up high enough based on his preference/ flexibility.

Now, had he chosen a larger size, it would come with proportionally taller head tube, a longer seat tube, so... less post exposed and no need for all the spacers and flipped up stem. 

Granted, some of this is aesthetics, but some are real indications of a miss sized frame for a rider. You being the same height, even if your proportioned differently, the current setup would likely be close to suiting your needs. This is why I said you may want to keep other options open. 

BTW, I get the spinning head thing. Been there, done that, as they say. But I suggest you fight the urge to buy and be left with an ill fitting bike. Better to tread slowly and be as sure as you can that the bike you buy can be fitted to you and will be comfortable to ride.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Ok, I'll go there and try it out and try to figure it out.
If I feel that the handlebar is too close I know why, and I'll try to adjust the seat post to make it "ok".
I understand that this is all speculation, but I would have no idea of any of this if you didn't tell me, now I'm a bit more educated about it  , so thank you a lot!

I'll also ask the guy why the bike is setup like this, and if he was fitted by a LBS or he just went ahead and made the changes himself, I could see someone wanting to be more comfortable and making those changes, or maybe he's not the original owner of the bike and has no clue about it (after all he has no idea what size bike it is, he didn't even know what 1.1 was).

I don't know if it means anything, but now that you tell me, the handlebar looks way too high for the position I (think) like riding in, looking at my vintage Huffy with drop ends, my bar is way lower than my saddle, and it feels much more comfortable to ride on the bottom than on the hood..

My head is spinning right now..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Ok, I'll go there and try it out and try to figure it out.
> If I feel that the handlebar is too close I know why, and I'll try to adjust the seat post to make it "ok".
> I understand that this is all speculation, but I would have no idea of any of this if you didn't tell me, now I'm a bit more educated about it  , so thank you a lot!


You're welcome.

You don't want to adjust the saddle to compensate for reach or drop to bars. Better to make the appropriate saddle adjustments, then look at what needs to be done at the stem/ bars to adjust for reach and drop. 

If you get to the point of purchasing this bike, I'd advise you to ask the seller to bring it to a LBS to get an assessment on fit for you. 



Alfredo2081 said:


> I'll also ask the guy why the bike is setup like this, and if he was fitted by a LBS or he just went ahead and made the changes himself, I could see someone wanting to be more comfortable and making those changes, or maybe he's not the original owner of the bike and has no clue about it (after all he has no idea what size bike it is, he didn't even know what 1.1 was).


Doesn't really matter how the fit came to be. It matters that the bike can be fit to *you*. Again, having someone reputable/ knowledgeable would be the preferred method, IMO.



Alfredo2081 said:


> I don't know if it means anything, but now that you tell me, the handlebar looks way too high for the position I (think) like riding in, looking at my vintage Huffy with drop ends, my bar is way lower than my saddle, and it feels much more comfortable to ride on the bottom than on the hood..
> 
> My head is spinning right now..


Saddle to bar drop is dependent on a riders preference/ flexibility. It's entirely possible that you'd drop the bars a cm or two. Best to get the saddle adjusted first, then see.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> You're welcome.
> 
> You don't want to adjust the saddle to compensate for reach or drop to bars. Better to make the appropriate saddle adjustments, then look at what needs to be done at the stem/ bars to adjust for reach and drop.
> 
> ...


Yes, I will try to fix the saddle based on my legs, I will then check if the bar is too close, or too high for that matter I guess. 
I guess I can take a look at the seatpost to see how much it sticks out, is there a rule of thumb to figure out how much seat post is too much?
I will check the area for LBS, I don't really know the area where the person is located, so I don't know if that will happen. In the meantime I'll try to figure out as much as I can on my own. 
I'll try my best to be objective and I'll walk away if it doesn't feel right.. 
I wish you could go with me


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Yes, I will try to fix the saddle based on my legs, I will then check if the bar is too close, or too high for that matter I guess.
> I guess I can take a look at the seatpost to see how much it sticks out, is there a rule of thumb to figure out how much seat post is too much?


There are minimum insertion lines on seat posts. You don't want to set the post past (above) that mark.



Alfredo2081 said:


> I will check the area for LBS, I don't really know the area where the person is located, so I don't know if that will happen. In the meantime I'll try to figure out as much as I can on my own.
> I'll try my best to be objective and I'll walk away if it doesn't feel right..
> I wish you could go with me


As long as you remain objective and are willing to walk if it doesn't feel right, you'll do ok. And if you're unsure, tell the seller you'll let him know and post your impressions here. I and/ or other members will try to help you from there.

In the meantime, it wouldn't hurt to explore other options (bikes).


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> There are minimum insertion lines on seat posts. You don't want to set the post past that mark.
> 
> 
> As long as you remain objective and are willing to walk if it doesn't feel right, you'll do ok. And if you're unsure, tell the seller you'll let him know and post your impressions here. I and/ or other members will try to help you from there.


I will also stop at my LBS before Sat Morning, they say they have some used bikes and some demo bikes. Not sure anything is in my price range, but is worth a shot.

Also, as a rule of thumb, what tools I need for minimal adjustments? Not sure if he has tools so I want to go prepared..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I will also stop at my LBS before Sat Morning, they say they have some used bikes and some demo bikes. Not sure anything is in my price range, but is worth a shot.
> 
> Also, as a rule of thumb, what tools I need for minimal adjustments? Not sure if he has tools so I want to go prepared..


Both excellent thoughts. 

Re: tools, get a multi tool. You'll need it after you get the bike anyway. As to specifically which one, if you do a search you'll find threads with all kinds of recommendations.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Here's a thread on multi-tool recommendations.
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/beginners-corner/multitool-recommendations-346729.html


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Here's a thread on multi-tool recommendations.
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/beginners-corner/multitool-recommendations-346729.html


I'll look into it, not sure I'll have the chance to get one before Saturday.. 
I'll check what I might need and just bring some tools.. 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I'll look into it, not sure I'll have the chance to get one before Saturday..
> I'll check what I might need and just bring some tools..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


4, 5, and 6mm hex keys are all you'll need to make common/ minor adjustments.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> 4, 5, and 6mm hex keys are all you'll need to make common/ minor adjustments.


Awesome! 

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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Also, don't let the frustration of craigslist bike shopping get to you, patience will pay off. And remember buying a used bike is sort of like real estate... there have already been better deals you've missed, and better ones will come along after you've found your bike. But if you make a good choice on yours none of the others will matter.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

jetdog9 said:


> Also, don't let the frustration of craigslist bike shopping get to you, patience will pay off. And remember buying a used bike is sort of like real estate... there have already been better deals you've missed, and better ones will come along after you've found your bike. But if you make a good choice on yours none of the others will matter.


I totally have that in mind. This is my first road bike, and even though I'm sure there will be better deals coming up, I'll be plenty happy with whatever I chose.
Then there will be a different time when I'll have a better budget (and much more experience) and I will know exactly what I want. 

I'll try to stop by my LBS between now and tomorrow, who knows, they might have an entry level demo that fits in my budget, I highly doubt it, but you never know :d

As for my CL find, the only incognito right now is the size, and I can make the bike fit me or not, I am pretty certain is a 54, but we'll have confirmation on Saturday morning.

Thank you for all the advice


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

The Spec Allez (56CM) is still up on CL. Might be worth it to try contacting them again.

https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5693041623.html


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> The Spec Allez (56CM) is still up on CL. Might be worth it to try contacting them again.
> 
> https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5693041623.html


I saw, I tried with 2 different emails, no answer. I'll send another email out... You never know..


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I saw, I tried with 2 different emails, no answer. I'll send another email out... You never know..


This one doesn't list a frame size, but looks to be in the 56CM range. Also, above your budget, but if you negotiate just on the bike you may get closer to your $200 mark.

https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5721271248.html


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Sent him a text, bike looks huge!! Let's see if he knows the frame size


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Sent him a text, bike looks huge!! Let's see if he knows the frame size


You may well be right, but pics can deceive. Let's see what he says.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

He's not sure, he "thinks" it's 57 (which I don't see listed in the available sizes) but he'll let me know.
He's 6 he says. Will keep him warm, but looking at the neck it does look a 58 or a 60.. But then again, very hard to tell.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

There's a relationship between seat tube length and the frame size under which the bike was sold. Have the seller measure seat tube length in centimeter. That's the dimension from the center of the bottom bracket (also the center of the bolt that holds the crank on) to the top of the clamp that keeps the seat _post_ from sliding down into the seat tube.

Once you have that dimension, google for the geometry of a 2012 or so Trek 1.1. Go to the geometry chart you found and correlate the seat tube length as measured by the seller (probably off by a few millimeter, doesn't matter) with the nominal frame size listed on that chart.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> He's not sure, he "thinks" it's 57 (which I don't see listed in the available sizes) but he'll let me know.
> He's 6 he says. Will keep him warm, but looking at the neck it does look a 58 or a 60.. But then again, very hard to tell.


For the past few years that model went 48, 51, 54, 56, 58, 61cm, so I highly doubt it's a 57cm.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> The Spec Allez (56CM) is still up on CL. Might be worth it to try contacting them again.
> 
> https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5693041623.html


Well, he says he sold it 2 ago, I wish he answered my emails for the past 7 days


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Well, he says he sold it 2 ago, I wish he answered my emails for the past 7 days


Agree.. oh well, the search continues.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Agree.. oh well, the search continues.


And the budget went up to 300$, no big difference, but on the used market can be 3/4 years younger it seems like 
found a 2014 1.2 for 700, but only went down to 500 , still too much...


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Alfredo2081 said:


> And the budget went up to 300$, no big difference, but on the used market can be 3/4 years younger it seems like
> found a 2014 1.2 for 700, but only went down to 500 , still too much...


Don't put too much importance on model year. With those Treks, the changes made from year to year weren't that significant. And, even more importantly, a newer unloved model may be in much worse shape than a well-cared for old one.

Also keep in mind that some people ride their bikes 5,000 miles a year, others no more than 50 miles, if that.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

wim said:


> than
> 
> Don't put too much importance on model year. With those Treks, the changes made from year to year weren't that significant. And, even more importantly, a newer unloved model may be in much worse shape than a well-cared for old one.
> 
> Also keep in mind that some people ride their bikes 5,000 miles a year, others no more than 50 miles, if that.


Yeah, looks like the one that I'm checking out Saturday was parked most of its time.. 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/5725421444.html
I can't figure out what is this bike. Do you guys know what it's worth? 
Asked for info, didn't get an answer.. Might be a little too far from the budget but you never know 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Cannondale Synapse
> I can't figure out what is this bike. Do you guys know what it's worth?
> Asked for info, didn't get an answer.. Might be a little too far from the budget but you never know
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


It's a C'dale Synapse. Alu frame, CF fork. Probably the nicest bike you've looked at yet. I don't know the year, but 9 speed Tiagra tells me maybe 4-6 years old.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

The paint scheme looks similar to this one, so may be an '08.
2008 Cannondale Synapse 6 Compact - BikePedia


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Hmm.. For some reason I really like it and I know nothing about it 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

If I had the budget it would be mine already.. I asked how old it is, hopefully he's negotiable 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I think it's an emotional thing.. What you think it's worth? 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I think it's an emotional thing.. What you think it's worth?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


To varying degrees, buying a bike is almost always part emotions. It's ok, because every time your eyes focus on it, you'll want to ride.

We'd need to pin down the year before estimating a price, but it looks to be in excellent condition, so my guess is in the $400 range. Just a guess....


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> To varying degrees, buying a bike is almost always part emotions. It's ok, because every time your eyes focus on it, you'll want to ride.
> 
> We'd need to pin down the year before estimating a price, but it looks to be in excellent condition, so my guess is in the $400 range. Just a guess....


Year 2009 with less than 2000 miles on it. 
He's pretty much firm and he won't go below 480,which would not even include the pedals or anything else, which in turn puts it totally out of reach. 

The Jamis you found yesterday, he came back and confirmed it's a 57 (??) which is weird,and at about 1 hour and 30 minutes away is probably not a great idea to take a drive to go check out. 

So I'm back to the lbs to check what they have and the 1.1 with the funny setup for tomorrow. 

I also keep gravitating towards the trek 1.1, I'm sure if the size feels good I'll be really happy with it, after all it would be the first time and I have no idea what other bikes feel like. 

I was also thinking that the Trek 1000 (the orange one ) might also still be available and that guy seemed more of a cyclist and at least knew that the frame was a 56... LoL 

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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Aside from out of reach of your budget, it's totally overpriced. Looks good but 7 year old alloy Tiagra bike is not worth $480 unless it comes with a couple hundred bucks worth of gold bricks.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

jetdog9 said:


> Aside from out of reach of your budget, it's totally overpriced. Looks good but 7 year old alloy Tiagra bike is not worth $480 unless it comes with a couple hundred bucks worth of gold bricks.


LOL, so this should really be in my price range, but the guy is unreasonable...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> LOL, so this should really be in my price range, but the guy is unreasonable...


If it's an '09 and in as good condition as it looks, it's not that overpriced (see below).

2009 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 6 - New and Used Bike Value

Notice the different paint scheme from the bike in the CL ad?

Now, two things... 1) used bike prices vary by region and demand, and 2) I think he's mistaken about it being an '09, thus the higher asking price.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ, your link is for the carbon bike. The CL bike is aluminum, I think.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

wim said:


> PJ, your link is for the carbon bike. The CL bike is aluminum, I think.


You're correct on both counts, wim. OP can disregard. 

I'll see what Google can find out about the alloy version.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

These are the closest I could find to the CL bike. I still think the seller is mistaken about the year. But yes, he's asking too much. 

OP, you may want to send of the BBB link to show him the estimated value. 

2008 Cannondale Synapse 6 Compact - New and Used Bike Value

2008 Cannondale Synapse 6 Compact - BikePedia


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> These are the closest I could find to the CL bike. I still think the seller is mistaken about the year. But yes, he's asking too much.
> 
> OP, you may want to send of the BBB link to show him the estimated value.
> 
> ...


I just did, if he gives it to me for the bluebook quote then my hunt is over 
Although I tried this approach in the past and the bluebook value was simply dismissed. 

We'll see what he says, I doubt he'll go for it.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I just did, if he gives it to me for the bluebook quote then my hunt is over
> Although I tried this approach in the past and the bluebook value was simply dismissed.
> 
> We'll see what he says, I doubt he'll go for it.


Well, prices vary by region and demand, and BBB isn't highly regarded by some. BUT.... it does provide him with a ball park, and his asking price is out of it. So, if he wants to sell the bike, he may reconsider. 

Just as an aside and for comparison purposes, my '08 Spec Tarmac (105) is worth around $400 according to BBB - higher spec'd than his C'dale.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I guess not a lot of people selling those bikes..
Plus, nobody likes to be told what something that they have is worth, I just sold a Harley for 1000$ less than what I thought it was worth, and is not fun.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> I guess not a lot of people selling those bikes..
> Plus, nobody likes to be told what something that they have is worth, I just sold a Harley for 1000$ less than what I thought it was worth, and is not fun.


He may get that one buyer that just wants that bike and will overpay. I don't know your market, but think it may take him some time to get his price.

Sometimes folks don't know what they're selling. Sometimes they think if it sat in their garage for 5,6,7... years it's worth $2-300 less than they paid new. They forget that bikes (like cars) depreciate. That there's no warranty.

That said, if it fit, I think it could be a great bike for you. 

Anyway, there's always LBS's selling used and this one:
Trek 1000


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

You know you are going nuts numbers when you decide to measure yourself again and it turns out that I'm 69 and 5/8 inches. 
I used the book method to measure my inseam and it came out 33 inches.

I thought I was 5.11 all this time.. LOL


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> You know you are going nuts numbers when you decide to measure yourself again and it turns out that I'm 69 and 5/8 inches.
> I used the book method to measure my inseam and it came out 33 inches.
> 
> I thought I was 5.11 all this time.. LOL


We shrink as we age. :wink5:

If your inseam measurement is correct, you're proportioned about average for your height. In most Trek, Spec, C'dale's you're probably in the 56-58cm range, but I'm playing averages/ guessing.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

How about a bikesdirect bike? 2011 Mercier Corvus Al
Men's Road Bike
Ultegra triple and carbon fork.
I asked him he went down to 400, I let it go, he came back to me after a couple of days (today) telling me 350 he'll let it go. 
If it can be a good choice I would just offer him 300$, but if is not a good frame then I won't waste his time.

What you think?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> How about a bikesdirect bike? 2011 Mercier Corvus Al
> Men's Road Bike
> Ultegra triple and carbon fork.
> I asked him he went down to 400, I let it go, he came back to me after a couple of days (today) telling me 350 he'll let it go.
> ...


Well, he's certainly a motivated seller. 

As to your question, BD bikes are ok for the price. Frames and components are (IMO) a bit dated (thus the low prices) and buying from them directly you'd get NO service, but for a first bike at around $300? Might be worth a look.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

This seller just updated his ad from 10 days ago. May be more willing to negotiate.

Trek 1000


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Allright. Took it for a spin. Lowered the saddle a bit (about 1 1/2 inch) but it felt like a beach cruiser with the bar so high. 
The guy was a bit taller than me, but the bike was adjusted on his "buddy" who was taller than him, he says he rode it once and I was quite surprised to see how new the bike looked. 
Checked all that you guys mentioned and all looked ok. No lbs because this was 6.15 am. 
It was an hour drive there, and on the road I was repeating to myself that maybe I shouldn't settle for the first bike I go and check out, then when I got there and rode it it just felt right (minus the bar so high up) so I took it home. 

Well, I can say that I'm a roadie now😊. 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Congrats and welcome to the wonderful world of road riding! :thumbsup:

If/ when funds allow, I suggest getting a standard fitting from a reputable LBS. May run around $50, but will be well worth it. Depending on the setup, that steerer tube may have to be cut down some.. too many spacers presently.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Congrats and welcome to the wonderful world of road riding!
> 
> If/ when funds allow, I suggest getting a standard fitting from a reputable LBS. May run around $50, but will be well worth it. Depending on the setup, that steerer tube may have to be cut down some.. too many spacers presently.


Definitely. 
I'll just try to somehow adjust it and then I'll definitely go to my lbs for a standard fitting when the time comes up. 
I'm just impressed by how new everything looks, even the shoes (correct size by the way) have near New soles. I have to learn how to use them now without killing myself... LoL 

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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> Definitely.
> I'll just try to somehow adjust it and then I'll definitely go to my lbs for a standard fitting when the time comes up.
> I'm just impressed by how new everything looks, even the shoes (correct size by the way) have near New soles. I have to learn how to use them now without killing myself... LoL
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Not everyone stays with this (or any other) sport. That's why I and some others here dissuade noobs from breaking the bank on a first bike. Ride this one for awhile, assess what you like/ don't like with an eye towards that 'next' bike. 

Re: going clipless, anticipation is the keyword. Anticipate stops and always unclip, then lean towards the unclipped side while braking. Most fall at least once. Lesson learned and a bit of a bruised ego.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Makes absolute sense, even if I had a bigger budget I probably wouldn't have spent more than 500$ on a bike. Budget was limited, but at the end it worked out ok.

By the way, it'll sound odd, but riding a big heavy harley softail means anticipation as well, if you tilt the bike a degree too much consider yourself under it on the floor.. I'll practice in the garage next to the garage door


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Now to the serous stuff. 
Is there a way to find out if this is the original stem? Seems a bit too angled to be flipped upside-down and that doesn't seem like a bontrager symbol 

















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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> By the way, it'll sound odd, but riding a big heavy harley softail means anticipation as well, if you tilt the bike a degree too much consider yourself under it on the floor.. I'll practice in the garage next to the garage door


Doesn't sound odd at all. I experienced similar turning on gravel on my Honda Magna.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Doesn't look like a Bonty stem to me, but that doesn't matter. What bothers me is the number of spacers under the stem. Too much stress on the steerer tube between the conical (cone) spacer and the stem.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Doesn't look like a Bonty stem to me, but that doesn't matter. What bothers me is the number of spacers under the stem. Too much stress on the steerer tube between the conical (cone) spacer and the stem.


How does it look underneath? Can I just unbolt it and take the spacers off? 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Well, the answer is not really. 
But I changed the way they are stacked and it feels much better now ☺









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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Yes, the answer is no, but you seem to have figured it out. Just be sure you've pre-loaded the headset bearings correctly - no binding, no play when the bars are turned left/ right.

Before cutting the steerer tube, every few rides fiddle with the drop a bit. I'm not a proponent of lower is better, so IMO it would be adjusted correctly when you're comfortable using the tops, hoods, drops... they're there for a reason.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Yes, the answer is no, but you seem to have figured it out. Just be sure you've pre-loaded the headset bearings correctly - no binding, no play when the bars are turned left/ right.
> 
> Before cutting the steerer tube, every few rides fiddle with the drop a bit. I'm not a proponent of lower is better, so IMO it would be adjusted correctly when you're comfortable using the tops, hoods, drops... they're there for a reason.


I wonder why the steerer tube is so tall, is it normal for a bike to have it tall and cut it to fit? Could that be the case? 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

Found stock photos of the new 1.1,it does look like a long fork tube as well.. 










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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Hard to tell from the pic, but I tried to visually compare your bike pics to the stock photo and yours looks to have more spacers. 

To answer your earlier question, complete bikes don't have steerer tubes that long. When framesets (alone) are purchased and built up, then it's left to the builder to cut the steerer.

It's possible (but I think unlikely) that yours is not the stock fork and the aftermarket fork was never cut.. or cut 'some' allowing for those spacers.

Just as an aside (and you'd know this better than me), the steerer tube is probably alu, so that number of spacers doesn't pose the problem it would with CF, but aesthetically it does border on a Frankenbike.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

PJ352 said:


> Hard to tell from the pic, but I tried to visually compare your bike pics to the stock photo and yours looks to have more spacers.
> 
> To answer your earlier question, complete bikes don't have steerer tubes that long. When framesets (alone) are purchased and built up, then it's left to the builder to cut the steerer.
> 
> ...


The steerer tube is aluminum, yes
The stem seems to have the same angle of the stem of my wife's mountain bike. 
I'm probably going to replace it soon. 
Won't mess with it too much because I want to have it fitted at some point, although in not even sure what a fitting would cost.. 

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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

Although there's a lot of truth to the typical advice you get on this forum about getting a proper fit, they can be very expensive (as in as much as you paid for your bike).

I think you're already onto this yourself, but probably the quickest cost-effective thing to do is:
-Get a proper stem, you can get one out of a shop's used/extra parts bin or online for cheap.
-Cut the steerer tube yourself with a pipe cutter or very carefully with a hacksaw... leave room for a few spacers to adjust but you can definitely get rid of a bit of the steerer tube. A shop may be willing to do it for you for a fair price, but then again it might also be kind of expensive... depends.

Then ride your bike for a year, see how into the sport you get, and be on the lookout for your next bike...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Alfredo2081 said:


> The steerer tube is aluminum, yes
> The stem seems to have the same angle of the stem of my wife's mountain bike.
> I'm probably going to replace it soon.
> Won't mess with it too much because I want to have it fitted at some point, although in not even sure what a fitting would cost..
> ...


Your plan makes perfect sense. 

Fittings can be pro fits ($2-300) using lasers/ software to track knee/ foot motion to simple standard fittings. Given your region, I'm guessing $50-$75. 

One thing to remember is, stating the obvious, riding a bike is physical. So getting a fitting from a reputable LBS is going to go a long way in making you comfortable on the bike. And as you increase rides and intensity, the more important fit becomes. Conversely, a bad fit can cause injury.

Barring some anatomical issue, all you need to start is a standard fitting. It'll include getting your reach and drop adjusted (at least initially) and from there tweaks can be made as you acclimate to road riding. 

As for the steerer, I'd fiddle with spacers/ stem angle a bit before the fitting, but don't fret over cutting it till you log some saddle time. Your position will change with time.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

I will definitely get a stem, most likely from eBay, and then I'll ride. 
I don't think I'll cut the tube, but I'll definitely look into at least a standard fitting 

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

First (short) ride with the new bike. Pretty surprised at my pace, considering I even stopped for water break (gotta get used to being attached to the bike... LoL) 

Front derailleur needs adjustment and I have to figure out how the pump works  










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## jetdog9 (Jul 12, 2007)

If those numbers are accurate and you plan to be doing that much up and down, I predict you will get into this road riding thing and be on a much better bike sooner than later... congratulations on getting the bike and starting to ride it.


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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

jetdog9 said:


> If those numbers are accurate and you plan to be doing that much up and down, I predict you will get into this road riding thing and be on a much better bike sooner than later... congratulations on getting the bike and starting to ride it.


Gotta admit, there's quite a bit of ups and downs around here, mostly overpasses. The ascending and descending numbers I believe are the totals for all up and down hills? 

What I love the most is how my head gets free of everything. I went out at 4.30 am, so no traffic around 😊

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## Alfredo2081 (Jul 22, 2016)

This is my last boat anchor ride, this was on trail that used to be a train line, so much flatter than the road. 










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