# Need Advice on carbon clincher wheel set



## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

Mostly flat terrain, butter smooth asphalt group rides in the 25-35mi range is the typical scenario. Wind can be a factor. My weight is 185lb/6'2".
Due to flat terrain and relatively short distances, my Strava segments are mid 20's so I'm thinking aero wheels might make a difference.

Currently on my carbon frame with 10sp Ultegra are Giant brand DT Swiss wheels from 2012 Giant Advanced Defy 1 I purchased used. The hubs DT logo also has 1800. Look like 24mm depth and mounted with 25mm conti gp4000. These wheels roll nice and seem lite but I'm looking for deeper more aero wheels for upgrade. Most of the faster guys in my group are running Zipps with 50mm depth and they have nothing but good things to say about them.

My opinion is they are pretty pricey new and the hubs to me, seem to be the weak point. Used in new condition they seem to run about $1200-1300 on eBay. 

I'm thinking Dura Ace hubs and a 50mm carbon clincher rim might be in the same price range and I would prefer to go with a builder on this forum if I this is possible for that price range. Given my weight and smooth road conditions, what would be the best spoke combo? Using rim brakes and 25mm clincher tires.

So I'm looking at used Zipps for about $1200 shipped or maybe get a set built with Dura Ace hubs for the same price? Is that in the ball park?

Opinions?


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

BacDoc said:


> I'm thinking aero wheels might make a difference.


If you are saying you will finish said rides faster being the difference with your same effort... You are saying you are willing to pay for speed. If I both understand you and I may play Devils Advocate a little.

OK, fine. If you are trying to justify them because they look sexy, and you can afford them, that is cool too.

Just weigh in things like: if less spokes a broken one may make for you not getting home. Valve extension dealings with airing et al. Wind, as you mentioned already. Cost to replace has to come into it, wear, stolen, crashes [sorry], potholes roof rack garage lost fights. 

Just some points.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

you should also consider the Dura Ace 9000 C50 clinchers.


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## Donn12 (Apr 10, 2012)

I have zipp 303s and they are incredible. I put a G3 power tap on after a year so the hub is a non issue....before that it was fine.


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## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> you should also consider the Dura Ace 9000 C50 clinchers.


Yes I am, is there a significant difference between the factory build vs hubs and rims laced by a wheel builder? New DA C50 clinchers are about the same price as used Zipps.

I know nothing about the build of Shimano wheels from the factory. My experience with MTB wheels is built by individual seems to stay true longer than factory. Not sure if smooth road riding makes that much difference.

Robt57, good points but as I said, most of my group is on deep aero wheels so extenders/air up is covered. Spare tubes I carry even have the long valve stems. I never transport bike on roof(have van). Wind can be issue but I am heaviest in group and a smooth rider so I think I can deal with that.

There is a set of Zipps on eBay for $1200 shipped. Description says Clyde build, ceramic bearings, valve extenders and low miles new condition. Pics do look like new with no blemishes and brake track looks perfect. New Shimano DA C50 are about the same price.


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## mikerp (Jul 24, 2011)

As you don't build your own wheels I won't discuss that option.
I would not buy used Zipps, I've seen too many posts on Zipp hubs failing and personally seen it happen (fortunately they were under warranty for my buddy).
A local wheel builder or one online can definitely source carbon rims and use a decent hub to build you a set of great wheels. Have you looked into Boyd?


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## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

Further research - looks like the new $1200 price is for the Shimano 7900 series. The 9000 series is the newer version and has the rim width increase but they are more expensive.

MikerP, I have heard that about Zipp hubs, some issues but taken care of under warranty. Used I won't have that.


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

The Shimano C50 clincher is a great aero wheel. The tubular version was the most popular wheel on the last TDF, but of course that may have to do with sponsorships. Shimano also makes a version called the RS81 (11spd) and RS80 (10 spd) which use the same rim and spokes, but an Ultergra hub instead of the Dura Ace hub. Both versions can be found for well under $1000 new


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Here is my superficial understanding of the Zipp 404 Firecrest (FC) revision:

- 2010 was the first year Zipp introduced the 404 FC. And for 2011, it is basically remained unchanged from 2010. Most the issues and complaints relating to spokes and hubs you hear about the 404 FC is from these 2 model years.

- in 2012, Zipp implemented some improvements on the 404 FC, though I don't really know the specifics of the improvement, and I haven't bother to look them up. This is the year that they introduced the "Beyond Black" scheme, and the hubs are black (versus silver for 2010, 2011). The improvement supposedly fix a lot of issues regarding spokes and hubs. But I still read some reviews online from the clydesdales that the rear wheel is still more flexy then they would like.

- in 2014, Zipp again implemented some further improvements by using a larger axel, larger ball bearings, changed their lacing pattern to "virtual 3x" on the drive side for better stiffness, and up the spoke count (28 versus 24). 

So if you're a heavy guy (say, over 200 lbs), and you're looking to get the Zipp 404 FC, you will want to get the 2014 model, and not earlier models. Most used models on Ebay are probably not 2014 though.

I'm currently riding the 2014 Zipp 404 Firecrest clinchers, and I can say I experience no flexy sensation at all but I'm only 117 lbs. I've also tried the Shimano C50 clinchers, and here are my comparison between the two sets. The Zipp is more aero, and I can feel this on the flat. Weight-wise, the 404 is a tad lighter than the C50, but I can't honestly say I feel the weight difference on the flat nor on a climb. In strong winds, the 404 front wheel will whip me around a tad more than the C50, and this is expected since the 404 is 58mm deep and the C50 is 50mm deep. When getting out of the saddle, I feel that the Zipp gives me more zoot, and based on this feeling, I think the Zipp is stiffer. But ride-wise, both wheelsets ride nice and supple, with the edge going to the C50 ever so slightly (I think both wheelsets ride smoother than the Enve SES 6.7). But here are the plus on the C50. Aluminum brake tracks! and this means you don't have to change to the more expensive pads, and you can use another aluminum wheelsets (if you have multiple sets) without switching pads. If you're riding mountain regularly, then the C50 aluminum brake tracks is definitely a plus,.. but I've ridden the 404 on mountain plenty too.. but still can't beat aluminum brake tracts for mountain riding. 

The Shimano hub is one of the best in the business. I think you cannot buy the exact Dura Ace with the 24 spokes independently and build your wheel (I may be wrong). I believe Shimano only sells the Dura Ace hubs with 28/32 spokes, not 24 spokes (like what they have on the C50). So if you want 24 spokes, you'll need to go with the C50. The build quality of Shimano is also very nice too.

Bottomline, if I'm a heavy guy riding mostly flat, and I have some money to spend to get that extra .1 mph, then I get the 2014 zipp 404 FC. Otherwise, I get the C50 clinchers for quite opeation, excellent hub, aluminum brake surface (if you're riding mountains), and cheaper price.

I have also tried the Enve SES 6.7 with DT Swiss 240 hub, and personally I'm not all that impressed. The wheelset is way too noisy/loud compared to the C50. The C50 is a quite wheelset. I personally think the Dura Ace C50 is THE best hub in the business, bar none.


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## changingleaf (Aug 20, 2009)

Shimano hubs are generally pretty good, but the bearings and pawls in the freehubs do wear out and because the axle is larger on all their new Dura Ace hubs the freehubs cannot be flushed out or rebuilt. Which means you have to purchase a new titanium freehub body. I've attempted to repair a couple of these freehubs and there's not much you can do. A newly built wheel with carbon rims can be had in that price range with rims purchased from China.


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## twiggy (Mar 23, 2004)

Have you considered Boyd 44mm Clinchers? Boyd Cycling - Handcrafted Revolution

His stuff, while sourced from the far east, seems to have some great design features, and they're strong, well-built, and backed up by great customer service. I just bought a pair a few months back and I'm loving them!


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## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

Good info aclinjury and changing leaf.

On my list so far is 9000 C50, Boyd 60mm, Tokyo Epic 60mm with DT Swiss 240 hub or newer used Zipp 404. All of These are in the $1500 price range. Leaning towards Boyd but the return policy of Tokyo is interesting. Boyd has solid rep and buying from somebody in the states is always nice too.

Any opinions on the DT 240 vs the Boyd hub?


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

Don't forget the Zipp 60 wheels, which are basically older Zipp 404 wheels with Aluminum brakes. $1299 is typical retail. But overall your not going to make a poor choice in any of the wheels your looking at


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## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

The Reynolds line - Attack - Strike - were redesigned last year and are very nice. They are now 25mm wide, so can be run at lower pressure. I have the Attacks and they have been flawless (using as a daily trainer). They are their light set, but the Assault or even Strike would be a good set and substantially less expensive than zipp.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

changingleaf said:


> Shimano hubs are generally pretty good, but the bearings and pawls in the freehubs do wear out and because the axle is larger on all their new Dura Ace hubs the freehubs cannot be flushed out or rebuilt. Which means you have to purchase a new titanium freehub body. I've attempted to repair a couple of these freehubs and there's not much you can do. A newly built wheel with carbon rims can be had in that price range with rims purchased from China.


ah I didn't know that. Now are you referring to their new DA 9000 hubs? I reckon that their older DA 7900 hubs are still somewhat self-servicable then?

And how long do these bearings and pawls last before they're junk? I would expect their wheels to last at least 10,000 miles (on clean road and no rain riding) before the hub needs a rebuild?

The Zipp 2014 hub seems to be quite self-servicable though just by looking at how easy it can be disassembled.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

BacDoc said:


> Good info aclinjury and changing leaf.
> 
> On my list so far is 9000 C50, Boyd 60mm, Tokyo Epic 60mm with DT Swiss 240 hub or newer used Zipp 404. All of These are in the $1500 price range. Leaning towards Boyd but the return policy of Tokyo is interesting. Boyd has solid rep and buying from somebody in the states is always nice too.
> 
> Any opinions on the DT 240 vs the Boyd hub?


Just want to make a minor correction of what i said about spoke count on the 2014 Zipp 404. They have 24 spokes at the rear for 2014 model. Previous years' models have 20 spokes (so no wonder they flex for the clydesdales!).


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

stevesbike said:


> The Reynolds line - Attack - Strike - were redesigned last year and are very nice. They are now 25mm wide, so can be run at lower pressure. I have the Attacks and they have been flawless (using as a daily trainer). They are their light set, but the Assault or even Strike would be a good set and substantially less expensive than zipp.


yeah the new Reynolds with the wide rims are another option too. I wonder what took them so long to join the wide rim revolution.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

aclinjury said:


> ah I didn't know that. Now are you referring to their new DA 9000 hubs? I reckon that their older DA 7900 hubs are still somewhat self-servicable then?
> 
> And how long do these bearings and pawls last before they're junk? I would expect their wheels to last at least 10,000 miles (on clean road and no rain riding) before the hub needs a rebuild?


I'm pretty sure it's the same deal with 7900 and ealier too. All or nothing with regard to fixing any free hub body issues.

I don't know what's typical but I have about 13K on a 7900 rear hub with no sign of any issues.


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## TJay74 (Sep 9, 2012)

Let me give up some of my insight...

I just had Reynolds buy back my Assaults after they had been rebuilt 4 times. Reynolds had done everything short of just sending me a brand new wheelset to try and get the issue resolved.

The end built they bought back from after everything was all said and done was the Assault rim, DT Swiss 240 hubs and DT Swiss aerolite spokes. Wheels came in around 1375g for the pair. They were very light, 46mm deep and I loved how they rolled.

Just could not keep them true for the life of the wheels, never made it more than 200 miles without the wheels going so far out of true that it would make braking performance come into play.

Reynolds was a pleasure to work with on the issue. Granted these were the 2013 Assaults and not the new 2014 Assault SLG wheels. Reynolds knew I was frustrated so they opted to buy the wheels back from me and let me go elsewhere.

After tons of research, thinking about building customer, buying off the shelf and so on I finally pulled the trigger on some Shimano Dura Ace C35 wheels. I have about 500 miles on them and they have been absolutely trouble free. The front wheel is one of the smoothest rolling wheels I have ever ridden on. Rear hub is 18pt engagement (I liked the DT Swiss 36pt better) and is solid as well. Hub flanges are wide as possible and the wheels are as well.

If I had to find something negative about the Shimano wheels is the weight, claimed was 1440g but they came in around 1525g I was surprised they were off as far as that but I am ok with it for now.


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## skinewmexico (Apr 19, 2010)

How about some November wheels? Flo Cycling? And I have been really happy with my HED Jet 5 Express at <$1000. I'm not faster, but they look cool, and don't seem to get blown around.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

changingleaf said:


> Dura Ace hubs the freehubs cannot be flushed out.


They certainly can with a Morningstar Freehub Buddy. That tool allows you to positively inject solvent to flush all the old lube and then inject new lube of choice. It works perfectly. They will be getting hard to find as inventor & maker Paul Morningstar died in late 2013.


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## 5DII (Aug 5, 2013)

Shimano wheels have a proven record, are exceptionally well-built, and you'll have a local LBS and a manufacturer's warranty. 

You can get new 9000 C50s online from the UK for less than $1500.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Love my DA 9000 C24s as do a couple friends I ride with. Great wheels. No issues. I know a guy who just got some C50s but no opinion on them yet.


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## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Dura Ace 9000 Rear hubs are available in 24 hole.

Shimano Dura-Ace 9000 24 hole 11-speed Rear Quick-Release Hub.

I own Zipp 202 Firecrest clincher wheels (2014 model), and they are my favorite wheels (also own Shimano DA9000 C24, and custom HED Belgium with Dura Ace 9000 hubs). The sound level of the Zipp hub was reduced simply by greasing the pawls. I have owned them for a year. No problems whatsoever.

$1200 for the used Zipp wheels is a great price. If you bought them and a hub failed (I'm dubious that this would happen...but if it did)...you could replace the hubs with Dura Ace and still be ahead of the curve in comparison to new Zipp wheels.

That said, factory built Shimano wheels are excellent. You can often find incredibly prices on them at Texascyclesport.com (presently out of stock, however).


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## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

Though I'm a little late to this thread ... I really like my Boyd 44 Carbon Clinchers.

I was able to get my race weight down to 177 pounds this season, but spend a lot of time in the 190's. I really like the Boyd's a lot. They are not quite as wide as other brands, but do fall into the "Wide" rim category. The real benefit is you can get them with more spokes ... mine are built up 24/28 which gives extra strength and stiffness to the build.

Overall quality is good and they have taken some pretty severe pot hole hits ... one, I though for sure I had destroyed the front wheel on ... however, zero issues over a season of riding. 

I was also worried about heat build up on descents, however, that went away after several hard stops on steep sections. I would reach down immediately after stopping to see how hot the rims were and the hottest they got was "Just above warm". They were way cooler than what my old aluminum rims would get to on long descents.

All for the price of $1450 brand new ($1400 for the 20/24 build) ... and they come with a warranty, which is something you won't get with used wheels.

Well worth a look when it comes to carbon clinchers.


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## Bee-an-key (May 5, 2007)

Regardless of what your group you ride with says, Zipp has quality issues as stated. I will never understand people who love their customer service fixing the problem, for $3k, your wheels should not be breaking at the hub or the rim. Buying used is buying someone else problem, stay away. Don't get stuck on carbon exclusively and don't gut stuck on mad aero. When was the last time you were riding and talking about Yaw angles? Look at Mavic, look at Campy, etc.. At your weight thinking about durablility and weight is important too, not just aero.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

Get the Dura Ace C35 or C50. The hubs are infinitely better than Zipps and the on flat terrain the weight difference does not matter much.

Campagnolo has a new carbon clincher in 35 and 50mm. Have not read any reviews yet but the tubular version is outstanding.

Bora One 35 - Medium Profile Campagnolo

As for aero, a good aero helmet probably will help as much as the Zipps.


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## masont (Feb 6, 2010)

Cinelli 82220 said:


> Get the Dura Ace C35 or C50. The hubs are infinitely better than Zipps and the on flat terrain the weight difference does not matter much.
> 
> Campagnolo has a new carbon clincher in 35 and 50mm. Have not read any reviews yet but the tubular version is outstanding.
> 
> ...


But then you'll look like a dork. With the wheels you'll look cool.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

masont said:


> But then you'll look like a dork. With the wheels you'll look cool.



If you are fast enough to ride everyone off your wheel it don't matter how dorky you look. Somehow, I think the helmet in the scheme of things has little to do with being this kind of a dork.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

Helmet is a helmet. I'm using a KASK Infinity, it looks pretty normal.

Velo had an aero helmet article this issue. Aero helmet approximates aero wheels, but a tenth the price.


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## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

Cinelli 82220 said:


> Get the Dura Ace C35 or C50. The hubs are infinitely better than Zipps and the on flat terrain the weight difference does not matter much.
> 
> Campagnolo has a new carbon clincher in 35 and 50mm. Have not read any reviews yet but the tubular version is outstanding.
> 
> ...


After having a G3 wheelset for 8 years I'm not getting another. Impossible to keep round and true due to the spoking. Wheels are close, but cannot be adjusted due to the stupid spoking.


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## fasteddy (Sep 22, 2005)

Cinelli 82220 said:


> Helmet is a helmet. I'm using a KASK Infinity, it looks pretty normal.
> 
> Velo had an aero helmet article this issue. Aero helmet approximates aero wheels, but a tenth the price.


In the article the only helmet coming close to a set of aero wheels was a full on TT helmet. The Kask infinity with the vent opened was only marginally better than the control helmet


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## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks for feed back on wheels.

As far as benefits of aero and the fact that its the rider and not the equipment... yeah but that's not why I asked for advice on wheels. When you're doing work at the front of a fast paceline and drop off to find the wheel on the back of the group as the next rider picks up the pace and your heart monitor is starting to redline and your legs are screaming, any advantage, real or perceived is welcome. Even if it's just a watt, anything at that point - I'll take it! 

Back to the point, I'm leaning towards the Boyds. Emailed him with questions and he got back to me quickly. The Boyds are the new wider style and he has some good reasoning behind his hubs.

Zipp must be doing something right as their newer Firecrests get lots of positive feedback and people are snapping them up at $2500.00 plus for a wheelset.

All the newer wheels seem to have the wider track around 24-25mm at the brake track. How important is the internal width? Most are around 19-19mm, are there wider wheels? I'm using 25mm tires and frame clearance is good with my current wheels.


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## tduncan86 (Nov 12, 2014)

If you are thinking of Chinese Carbon clincher wheels (off ebay or elsewhere), do yourself a big favour and DO NOT even think about buying from diy-bike. THey are bad wheels to the point of dangerous. Both of mine cracked down the centre of the tube bed. The front & rear were purchased separately about a month apart.
I noticed the rear first - coz due to the extra width of the rim after the crack formed - the brake track began to deform (likely from the heat generated each time the wheel brushed the brake pads?) to the point that the brakes began to rub. Less than 2 months use & approx 1500kms.
Thank goodness the failure was not catastrophic - as I have read in other forums/threads.
diy-bike refuses to acknowledge the problem or provide warranty / refund.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

Just a thought before you pop for some 50mm rims, no one seems to have mentioned.

If your bike is a stiff bike, in this world of Domane and CG-R Post on Roubaix et al. A 50 mm wheel is going to enhance stiffness, so to be sure this is not an objectional aspect of your investment.... Try to get a set on there to try out and feel. 

I got an SL4 Sora Roubaix in August, took it home a popped on a 7800 groupo and began piling some miles. My initial intent was some 38 or even 50mm carbon rims. Especially considering it is a disc model and any cork rim brake performance issue [and I have them] is taken out of the equation with disc brakes.

Became clear fast I did not want a tall stiffer rim on this bike. Even taking off the 28mm rim/wheels and popping on some 20mm 29er rims brought it a little in the opposite direction. 

So I wonder how a stiff AL frame would feel with 50mm rims, it is not for me. It may be for you, I dunno.. 

I don't actually have to imagine, but rather remember. Around 2001 I got a 404 Zipp wheelset. And whatever I was riding, they where on it. Mostly on my Strong Foco steel with AME, but also a CAAD5 Saeco. For hamerfesting and not centuries...


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

A friend got a wheelset a few months back from them. I just forwarded a link to this thread to him. Now you got me worried for him frankly.

What kind of inflations were you running ?? Also, what width rims are you referring?


I was looking at eBay carbon rims for my SL4 disc Roubaix for some XTR NOS hubs I have. I wound up ordering some Pacenti SL25s. Mostly due to worry about having to deal with a return to CHN for any reason, but price also. Seems the eBay CHN wheels mostly are compromises, especially in the hub dept certainly as compared to XTR. But now reading your rim experience...

Another consideration for me is liability. If Velocity USA or Pacenti and US based company's liability insurance underwritten here is a consideration, consider it. When you fracture your mandible, zygomatic arch, and a bunch of teeth bust due a defective rim, who your gonna sue, Ghost Busters? Jokes aside, what is the legal recourse and probability of same existing really? 




tduncan86 said:


> If you are thinking of Chinese Carbon clincher wheels (off ebay or elsewhere), do yourself a big favour and DO NOT even think about buying from diy-bike. THey are bad wheels to the point of dangerous. Both of mine cracked down the centre of the tube bed. The front & rear were purchased separately about a month apart.
> I noticed the rear first - coz due to the extra width of the rim after the crack formed - the brake track began to deform (likely from the heat generated each time the wheel brushed the brake pads?) to the point that the brakes began to rub. Less than 2 months use & approx 1500kms.
> Thank goodness the failure was not catastrophic - as I have read in other forums/threads.
> diy-bike refuses to acknowledge the problem or provide warranty / refund.


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## tduncan86 (Nov 12, 2014)

robt57 said:


> A friend got a wheelset a few months back from them. I just forwarded a link to this thread to him. Now you got me worried for him frankly.
> 
> What kind of inflations were you running ?? Also, what width rims are you referring?


115psi max on a 125psi rated rim. Mostly 95-105psi. Rider weight 75kg. 
Advertized rim width 20.5mm. wheel size 700c x 38mm deep.


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## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

tduncan86 said:


> 115psi max on a 125psi rated rim. Mostly 95-105psi. Rider weight 75kg.
> Advertized rim width 20.5mm. wheel size 700c x 38mm deep.


Thanks!


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## rlsmith17 (Sep 5, 2014)

Wookiebiker said:


> Though I'm a little late to this thread ... I really like my Boyd 44 Carbon Clinchers.
> 
> I was able to get my race weight down to 177 pounds this season, but spend a lot of time in the 190's. I really like the Boyd's a lot. They are not quite as wide as other brands, but do fall into the "Wide" rim category. The real benefit is you can get them with more spokes ... mine are built up 24/28 which gives extra strength and stiffness to the build.
> 
> ...


Thank you for posting your experience with the 44mm Boyd Wheels, Those are the wheels I am saving up for and hope to have in my possession soon.


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## Trek_5200 (Apr 21, 2013)

aclinjury said:


> you should also consider the Dura Ace 9000 C50 clinchers.


You can never go wrong with Shimano Dura Ace wheels. Best wheels for the money. Personally I like the c-24's though for the climbing and how they handle the wind.


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## [email protected] (Jun 11, 2014)

BacDoc - Evaluated and posted a comparative review on a dozen and a half carbon clinchers earlier this year. 2014 Zipp 303 FC are first class but suggest you stay away from used Zipps; they put new hubs on their wheels this year to deal with serious failure problems they had with hubs on 2012 and 2013 wheels. 

In the price range you are talking about, would consider the Reynolds Assault if you want all carbon and the Shimano DA C35 if you want a alloy brake track. Lots of other good choices if you want to spend more but not sure it will make major difference for kind of riding you describe you are doing. Steve


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## tvad (Aug 31, 2003)

Given your riding and desires, I think Dura Ace C35 are the sweet spot for you. The Zipp 303FC are excellent wheels, but for your purposes, I wouldn't recommend a carbon wheel unless you have a set of aluminum wheels as alternates.

The Dura Ace C50 are pretty heavy compared to the Zipp 303FC, which is why I suggest the C35. You'll love those wheels. 

Check Texascyclesport.com for good prices on Shimano wheels and components.


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