# Andalucia: a ride report



## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

Andalucia: the paradigm of Spain: bull fights, flamenco, extravagant holy week celebrations, where the moor sighed one last time. A place full of romance, fire, beauty and wine. A land of steep hills and white villages. A world steeped in the past, but bristling with modern life. It inspired Bizet and Hemingway. Carmen tempted Don Juan in her streets and Robert Jordan saw death from her bridges. All of us should visit it once.

My trip began in Cordoba. Once the greatest city of Europe. Her streets twist and turn in a maze. Getting lost is not just likely, it is inevitable. But we did eventually find our hotel, and it was time to unpack the bike from the box and put it together.

1. Take this box
2. Open it up
3. get out the parts
4. couple it together, and
5. voila: a bike.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*photos*

I have done this before, really. Not sure why photos did not post, but here they are:


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Cordoba*

Cordoba has one of those sights that everyone must see: la mezquita. In the ninth century Cordoba was the capital of moorish Spain and the largest city in Europe. The caliph decided to build an enormous mosque. Over the centuries it was added to over and over. At one time it had room for something like 40,000 worshippers. When it fell to the Christians in the 13th century, someone had the bright idea of plopping a cathedral right into the middle of the mosque. A bewildering, magical place (and rather hard to take photos in, but I have given it a try)

1. arches of la mezquita
2. more colonnades
3. the cathedral in the mosque
4. the outside, complete with crane
5. a door into la mezquita.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Seville #1*

Seville is the capital of Andalucia and the fourth largest city in Spain. A fabulous place. I cycled to Seville from Cordoba, which I would not recommend. It is around 150 km, on a busy secondary highway with a dicey shoulder and lots of trucks. The route is not pretty at all, mostly agri-business towns with few redeeming characteristics. It did not really help that the whole ride was into a roaring headwind. Getting two flats did not contribute to my enjoyment of the day. Neither did my passport falling out of my handlebar bag somewhere along the route. I realized that the next day, which meant an unscheduled visit to a police station and a trip to the Canadian Consulate in Malaga. Note to self: do doublecheck those zippers.

Anyway, passport problems aside, Seville was pure bliss. Lots to do and see. Took in a flamenco performance, drank much sangria and visited two more amazing sights: the Alcazar palace and the Seville Cathedral, which is the largest gothic cathedral in Europe. But the real pleasure of this city is aimlessly wandering her streets, stopping in this cafe or at that bar.

The photos:

1. the maidens courtyard in the Alcazar
2. another view
3. the gardens
4. the gardens through an arch
5. statue of mercury in the gardens of the Alcazar


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Seville #2*

The cathedral is truly immense. The pictures just do not do it justice. It is also possible to climb the tower, the giraldo, which originally was the minaret for the mosque that once existed here. The tower was modeled on the Koutoubia mosque in Marrakech, so I thought I would include a picture of it from my trip there last year.

1. Cathedral from the outside (or at least a small part of it)
2. inside the Cathedral
3. The tower
4. Its inspiration: the Koutoubia mosque
5. rooftop view from top of tower
6. gargoyle
7. pigeon roosting
8. a view of the barrio santa cruz


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

Where did you stay (in Cordoba)? I've been there many times. Great city. 

Did you have a chance to ride outside of town to the East..the Sierra Morena? There are some good hills there. That is were the Summer Palace is. It is cooler up there than the 120 degrees it gets down in the city during the Summer.

Brings back great memories seeing those pictures.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Arcos de la Frontera*

The ride from Seville to Arcos de la Frontera was decidedly better than the one from Cordoba to Seville. A bit under 100km, through some pretty landscape. Arcos is the first of the "pueblos blancos" that I visited. These are a string of glorious villages perched on the tops of cliffs and mountains. They are sort of like the villages of Provence, but further apart, higher up and rather larger. We stayed at a "Parador" in Arcos. These are government owned hotels, often in historic buildings. Our view was, to say the least, outstanding. Our terrace was cantilevered over a cliff. I don't think I have ever stayed in a better setting.

1. Fields of Andalucia
2. On the way to Arcos
3. View from our terrace to San Pedro church
4. San Pedro at night, also from our terrace
5. Bike, with arcos in the background. 
6. Another view of Arcos
7. Streets of Arcos


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## Zero Signal (Feb 8, 2008)

Wow, all that trouble packing and unpacking the bike was most definitely worth it.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Ronda*

Ronda was my favourite place in Andalucia. The ride there from Arcos (about 90 km) was terrific (though the weather was not the best). I saw lots and lots of skinny racer types charging across the mountains. I am pleased to say that I was never passed (they were all going the other way, I think), despite the heavy touring bike and many stops for photos. I spent three days in Ronda, riding about the hills and visiting a bunch of towns. I would highly recommend Ronda as a base for a cycling trip. There are many opportunities for loops of 100 km or so. The mountain roads are all but deserted and there are some rather challenging climbs. One thing to be aware of is that, unlike much of France, the villages are quite spread out. You could easily ride for 4 hours and not run across a town. Signage approaches the non-existent, so you really need a good map.

1. On the way to Ronda
2. Climbing the hills
3. Puerto de el Boyar
4. Grazelema
5. Grazelema from the other side
6. it really is a hilly place
7. Cycled across these.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Around Ronda*

A few more shots in and around Ronda. Did I mention that some of the best roads are not paved? Thought I would put in a shot or two of our hotel as well. Another parador, another so so view. The bridge is amazing. Built in the late 17th century, I think. They call it the new bridge. It was from here that prisoners were hurled alive into the gorge during the Civil War. Hemingway wrote much of For Whom the Bell Tolls while he was in Ronda.

1. our hotel
2. the view
3. bridge of Ronda by night
4. typical lunch
5. town of Olvera
6. mountain road
7. some Backroads
8. gravel tracks
9. a lonely tree
10. sunset

pix are not all coming out in order, but I am sure you get the idea.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Granada*

The Moor's last Sigh... City of the Nasrid dynasty. The last redoubt of moorish Spain. Its iconic image: the Alhambra. A place that burrows into your brain and stays there. A palace, a fortress, a place of sublime beauty. Its fall in 1492 marked the end of 700 years of Islamic rule in Spain. Unforgettable. My photos are but a pale shadow.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*A few final thoughts*

I will remember the sights of Andalucia for a very long time. The riding was superb, though challenging. But, for all of Spain's splendour, I still prefer cycling in France. I am not sure why. The food and wine is certainly better in France. I speak a fair bit of French, so that informs my experience. I find the French drivers more respectful of cyclists (not that they are bad in Spain) and the French secondary road network is definitely better. Getting in and out of towns in Spain can be a bit harrowing and the signage is nowhere near as good as France. But, all in all, I would highly recommend a cycling trip in Andalucia.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

DY123 said:


> Where did you stay (in Cordoba)? I've been there many times. Great city.
> 
> Did you have a chance to ride outside of town to the East..the Sierra Morena? There are some good hills there. That is were the Summer Palace is. It is cooler up there than the 120 degrees it gets down in the city during the Summer.
> 
> Brings back great memories seeing those pictures.


Stayed in a little place called the Casa Azuelos, right in the old city. I did not ride to the Sierra Morena. Being there in March meant that I did not have to worry about the blazing heat. Actually, it was rather on the chilly side.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Nice pics. Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for posting.


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## Fr Ted Crilly (Feb 7, 2002)

oarsman said:


> I will remember the sights of Andalucia for a very long time. The riding was superb, though challenging. But, for all of Spain's splendour, I still prefer cycling in France. I am not sure why. The food and wine is certainly better in France. I speak a fair bit of French, so that informs my experience. I find the French drivers more respectful of cyclists (not that they are bad in Spain) and the French secondary road network is definitely better. Getting in and out of towns in Spain can be a bit harrowing and the signage is nowhere near as good as France. But, all in all, I would highly recommend a cycling trip in Andalucia.


Fantastic report. Thanks for sharing.


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

Very impressive ride report. My first comment was only when I had seen that you had ridden in Cordoba. I didn't know you rode through so many towns. Looks like a great experience. 

That lunch looks good.....


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

WOW! This is such a great report (looks like a great trip too).

I want to go there.

I really want to go there.

Man, I need to go there.

I hate you!


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## gutfiddle (Apr 27, 2006)

breathtaking, thanks for sharing, add this one to my list...


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## bigrider (Jun 27, 2002)

Wow.

I want to snap your oars. Yes, I am THAT envious.!!!!


Nice pictures. Just when I am getting to the point where I can almost make going to Europe a reality the dollar goes down the crapper.


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## Antonio_B (Dec 9, 2005)

Incredible report. It's more beautiful that I ever imagined.

Thank you for posting!


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## philippec (Jun 16, 2002)

Beautiful shots of the countryside in the spring -- almost makes me forget the wet and grey we are having now in Paris!

I find the Moorish rule in spain to be a fascinating historical period -- in its early period, it was probably the last (only) time the world's three major monotheistic religions lived in some semblance of mutual theological tolerance and outward harmony. And the richness that the Moors brought to Europe was something that even now we can hardly measure although this is something that is often conveniently overlooked when we study our history -- e.g. my girls are learning all about how Charles Martel booted the (evil) Moors out of France and little about what the Moors brought to Medieval Europe that enabled the cultural flourish under the (much later) Rennaissance. I think that a trip down to Andalucia is in the books so that I may show them another perspective.

Cheers!


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*semana santa*

One of the most amazing things about Andalucia is Holy Week, "Semana Santa". Processions wend their way through the streets, with huge figures of Jesus (usually on the cross) or Mary (often with candles) carried on the backs of penitents. Many of the penitents are wearing outfits that look for all the world like Klu Klux Klan hoods and robes. Indeed, the KKK for some reason took the robes used during Semana Santa as their model. It really must be seen to be believed. The peak of the celebrations are in Seville, but I saw them in Ronda and Granada. A few photos are below.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

I have a zillion questions about your trip. I'll start with just a few.

Why do you dismount your tires? I just let the air out of mine and jam the wheels in there.

Any real language problems on your trips? How did you decice on routes? 

We are thinking about doing a week on our own in Eastern Europe before our guided tour down the Danube. How casual do you think we can be about planning?

Did you go solo? I can't really tell from your description and pix.

BTW Every time I see the color of your Atlantis I get a little green with envy.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

MB1 said:


> WOW! This is such a great report (looks like a great trip too).
> 
> I want to go there.
> 
> ...


Well then, pack up the bikes and Mrs M and head off. Fly to Madrid, take the train to Cordoba, talk some nice hotel person into storing your boxes and cycle off into the hills.

And... a statue of Don Quixote for you, just in case some tilting at windmills is required (oh, and another of a fountain in Madrid, just because I liked it):


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

*Good idea.*



oarsman said:


> Well then, pack up the bikes and Mrs M and head off. Fly to Madrid, take the train to Cordoba, talk some nice hotel person into storing your boxes and cycle off into the hills.....


But first we have to do the Danube in July, Oregon and California in September, Hawaii in December, Florida in January, Texas in March, Samoa in June............ 

The list just keeps getting longer (which is a good thing!). :thumbsup:


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

MB1 said:


> I have a zillion questions about your trip. I'll start with just a few.
> 
> Why do you dismount your tires? I just let the air out of mine and jam the wheels in there.
> 
> ...


I dismounted the tires because otherwise they just didn't fit. I did try to just let the air out.

Some language problems. English is widely spoken in the tourist industry, but nowhere else. A phrase book and a smile will get you around.

Some parts of Eastern Europe are pretty easy to travel in, though I have not cycled there. I would grab a couple of guidebooks and determine how available hotels are and the like. Good maps are absolutely essential. You will probably need a few large scale ones to show the best cycling roads. These should be available somewhere in DC. I tend to plan out trips fairly carefully, although I always leave room for flexibility. I generally don't like packing up each night, so I look for places where I want to spend two or three nights.

It wasn't really solo. I cycled by myself, but friends and I had rented a car. We met up most evenings in the next town. I like traveling this way, particularly when you have a long stretch where riding is not terribly practical. On this trip the car came in very handy when I had to detour to the Costa del Sol to replace my passport.

I love the colour too. Chris Dekerf did an amazing job.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

*Tell me about it*



MB1 said:


> But first we have to do the Danube in July, Oregon and California in September, Hawaii in December, Florida in January, Texas in March, Samoa in June............
> 
> The list just keeps getting longer (which is a good thing!). :thumbsup:


My list is mighty long as well. Next is Bhutan in September, then somewhere next spring (Croatia? Back to southern France? safari in Africa?)), then an extended trip to Australia in Fall, 2009. I guess I had best get off this computer and go to work to pay for all this adventuring.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

philippec said:


> Beautiful shots of the countryside in the spring -- almost makes me forget the wet and grey we are having now in Paris!
> 
> I find the Moorish rule in spain to be a fascinating historical period -- in its early period, it was probably the last (only) time the world's three major monotheistic religions lived in some semblance of mutual theological tolerance and outward harmony. And the richness that the Moors brought to Europe was something that even now we can hardly measure although this is something that is often conveniently overlooked when we study our history -- e.g. my girls are learning all about how Charles Martel booted the (evil) Moors out of France and little about what the Moors brought to Medieval Europe that enabled the cultural flourish under the (much later) Rennaissance. I think that a trip down to Andalucia is in the books so that I may show them another perspective.
> 
> Cheers!


Well, the weather wasn't all that great in Spain either. It SNOWED (OK, just a bit) in Madrid on Easter. It was pretty cold in the mountains as well.

And yes, Moorish Spain is fascinating. I think we can say that without it, the Renaissance would have been much delayed.


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

Judging from your descriptions you either did a lot of research and planning or had a good travel agent. Staying in Paradors can be a challenge in itself. Since they are usually placed in old castles or other historic building they have long waits. Supposedly the one on the grounds of the Alhambra has a 1+ year waiting list. 

I'll say it again. Great trip. How about the north of Spain....have you or will you try that?


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

DY123 said:


> Staying in Paradors can be a challenge in itself. Since they are usually placed in old castles or other historic building they have long waits. Supposedly the one on the grounds of the Alhambra has a 1+ year waiting list.
> 
> I'll say it again. Great trip. How about the north of Spain....have you or will you try that?


I stayed at Paradors in Arcos and Ronda. It was fairly easy to book on line. We got a "five night pass" which made it all quite affordable. We did not even try to get into the Parador at the Alhambra. We were in Granada during holy week, which is probably booked until 2010. I actually would not recommend staying at that Parador, since it is up the hill and out of the cafe culture. It is also breathtakingly expensive (at least for Spain).

I have not tried the north of Spain, though I want to. I might ride the pilgrim's route to Santiago de Compestela some year. It would have to be a couple of months later though. There was snow in lots of Spain (including a flurry in Madrid, which was a bit unexpected) this March.


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## DY123 (Oct 5, 2006)

I know there are different levels in the Parador system, but that one is supposed to be the jewel. I always thought it would be good for something special (anniversary, etc). Supposedly guests can stroll the gardens of the Alhambra after hours. 

I guess it pays to plan in advance for those types of occasions, but I've always felt comfortable playing things by ear in Europe.

When I have just shown up at a Parador asking if there are rooms for the night or for later on a return portion of my trip...........the answer has always been no. I once tried one in the absolute middle of no where and thought I'll try this out for the night. Sorry full.

From what I've heard Galicia can be like Great Britain, cold, foggy, very green......you are right a different time of the year would be best. 

How many miles did you ride?


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## DrRoebuck (May 10, 2004)

Wow. Killer trip and report. Your bike is the sheeeeeeit.


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## rellimreeb (Jul 29, 2007)

I am green w/ envy - what an awesome trip and ride report. Thanks for sharing!


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## SantaCruz (Mar 22, 2002)

Loved the report. I have visited the Alhambra a couple of times and I was hoping for a pic including blue tile - the word "azul" always has me visualizing Alhambra tiles.


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## bigpinkt (Jul 20, 2006)

Excellent report. I grew up in Cadiz, this brings back some memories.

I just bought one of those hard cases for my wife. We have used the soft ones until now. Any advice beyond taking the tires off?


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

bigpinkt said:


> Excellent report. I grew up in Cadiz, this brings back some memories.
> 
> I just bought one of those hard cases for my wife. We have used the soft ones until now. Any advice beyond taking the tires off?


Just try it once in practice before you travel. FWIW I don't take the tires off. 

The S&S site has nice instructions for packing the suitcase, follow those and you won't go wrong.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

Thanks for sharing. I was wondering how you carried all of your clothes and gear in a single handlebar bag, until you mentioned that you were traveling with friends who drove. I assume they carried most of your gear? That's the way to tour, in my book!


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

bigpinkt said:


> Excellent report. I grew up in Cadiz, this brings back some memories.
> 
> I just bought one of those hard cases for my wife. We have used the soft ones until now. Any advice beyond taking the tires off?


Packing is not terribly complicated. My bike is big and has something of an extended head tube, which makes packing a bit dicier. You probably won't have to take the tires off. I think I had to because of the nature of the tires: 35C Schwalbe. They are not that flexible and I could not tuck them in. I have to remove the chainring as well, but that might not be necessary in a smaller bike. I would invest in velcro protective stuff for the tubes (sandsmachine sells them). The web site had all the picks you need. But, make sure you practice.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

oarsman said:


> ... I have to remove the chainring as well, but that might not be necessary in a smaller bike......


Even with Miss M's 48cm frame and 650C wheels I still remove the crank. It is just easier that way.


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

tarwheel2 said:


> Thanks for sharing. I was wondering how you carried all of your clothes and gear in a single handlebar bag, until you mentioned that you were traveling with friends who drove. I assume they carried most of your gear? That's the way to tour, in my book!


Yep. Makes life easier, that's for sure. We did the same thing in 2006 in France. Extra gear went in the car, so I only need enough for a few days at a time. Bike box went in the car as well which meant I did not have to ship it or do a loop. We had cell phones to keep in touch.

I have done lots of fully loaded touring, complete with full camping gear. For some reason, as I get older eating packaged food in the pouring rain under my tent seems less appealing then sitting on a sunny terrace with nice people bringing me red wine. Funny that.


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

I got to visit Granada in 2003. My ship anchored off Cartagena and we rented a car to drive to Granada. We stayed in a hostel that was located on the sixth floor of an office building and our rooms looked out over the tile roofs of the city. We walked up to the fortress which was pretty tough but worth it. I think we killed four bottles of wine that day followed by a nice dinner of rockfish with a pate appetizer.


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## JP (Feb 8, 2005)

Wow, this report just blew me away. I suppose it's now on the life-long to do list. 

It looks like you got away without fenders too. ;-)


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

JP said:


> It looks like you got away without fenders too. ;-)


I don't think there was any way I could have got the fenders in the box. Putting them in my other luggage did not seem very sensible. Fortunately, it only rained a little.


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## elaugier (Sep 23, 2005)

*Andalucia*

Hi , Your pictures are gorgeous and your trip report so inviting ! 
We re planning such trip in October (group of 3) , Would you accept to answer a few questions and share your ideas ? Did you land in Madrid or Cordoba directly ? Do you see any interest biking down from MAdrid to Cordoba via Toleda or we should just skip that portion and drive ?
thanks ! Eric


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

elaugier said:


> Hi , Your pictures are gorgeous and your trip report so inviting !
> We re planning such trip in October (group of 3) , Would you accept to answer a few questions and share your ideas ? Did you land in Madrid or Cordoba directly ? Do you see any interest biking down from MAdrid to Cordoba via Toleda or we should just skip that portion and drive ?
> thanks ! Eric


We flew to Madrid. I don't think there is an airport in Cordoba (maybe a small one). I would not ride from Madrid to Cordoba. The terrain looked uninviting and it is a long way. I would also consider taking the train, which is very fast, though rather expensive. I am not sure how much time you have, but I also would not recommend riding from Cordoba to Sevilla. Perhaps if you took a couple of days and found a good route, it would be OK. The best riding per se is through the white villages. 

If you are going to Granada, make sure you get your tickets to the Alhambra well in advance. We left it too late and ended up in a tour (which was OK, but I am not really a tour type person).


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## elaugier (Sep 23, 2005)

We also flying to Madrid , but then have to decide whether or not we go to Cordoba (which should be the real start point of the ride) by train or if we rent a car to drive , ans then share the drive/bike along the trip. ..
the cities we aim at are : Cordoba, Sevilla , Ronda, then try a few climbs as well from "la vuelta Andalucìa" , then climb to Granada. 
One of my concerns is that crazy road from Malaga up to Granada, very dangerous and many truks, I think we should avoid the main roads by any case. 
I went there for Vacation back in 1998 and I remember how crazy the car drivers behave down there. Also if you have some Recommendations for Hotels, B&B, ...etc.. in the Ronda area. 
We ll share pictures later this year !


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## oarsman (Nov 6, 2005)

elaugier said:


> We also flying to Madrid , but then have to decide whether or not we go to Cordoba (which should be the real start point of the ride) by train or if we rent a car to drive , ans then share the drive/bike along the trip. ..
> the cities we aim at are : Cordoba, Sevilla , Ronda, then try a few climbs as well from "la vuelta Andalucìa" , then climb to Granada.
> One of my concerns is that crazy road from Malaga up to Granada, very dangerous and many truks, I think we should avoid the main roads by any case.
> I went there for Vacation back in 1998 and I remember how crazy the car drivers behave down there. Also if you have some Recommendations for Hotels, B&B, ...etc.. in the Ronda area.
> We ll share pictures later this year !


I will dig out my notes and send you some recommendations on hotels (not until this weekend, must go to work....  ). Should I PM you? 

Some general thoughts: Avoid the main roads at all costs. The drivers are demented, especially in and around the cities. Even the secondary routes aren't great, especially if it is the direct route between two towns: lots of trucks. Tertiary ones are the best, but they wander all over the place. The hardest thing is to plot good cycling routes in and out of the major cities. If you can swing it logistically, I would consider driving in and out of big cities like Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada. Signage is mystifying when it actually exists (and it has a way of vanishing completely when you enter a town). I accidently ended up on the main autoruta leaving Sevilla (that was rather scary, I must say). Get GOOD maps. Google maps or similar (I like viamichelin.com better) will give you a general idea, but I am a firm believer in paper for touring. English is not widely spoken except in the touristy spots.

I neither cycled nor drove the road from Malaga to Granada, if it is anything like the main road from Ronda to the Costa del Sol, it would approach suicidal to ride it. There are probably back roads (which will certainly test your climbing legs. Some of the little roads I took around Ronda seemed to specialize in steep short bits). Personally, I would skip the coast completely, and ride from Ronda to Granada through Antequera (that would take at least three days to do comfortably on back roads). Distances are quite long (much longer than, say Provence), so you may have to ride for three or four hours between towns.

That's all I can think of now.


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## elaugier (Sep 23, 2005)

Dios , Your help is greatly appreciated. I was expecting the roads to be dangerous. 
We ll stick to back roads as much as we can, I think the Antequera option from Ronda to Granada is great ! . Know what !? about the maps , maybe get a Garmin GPS would be an option for us , and then we can prepare the maps before leaving on google earth, maybe the friends staying home could also follow "nuestra aventura" on their computer. 
Also have pile of work , thanks again ! will communicate later


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