# Switching from MTB to Road Bike



## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

I have been an on and off commuter for 2 years. My route is about 6 miles one way, and I have an old moutain bike with slicks that I have been using to commute on.

My daily commute may be about double or triple if I take a new job, and I think it would be beneficial to have a road bike over a mountain bike to do this kind of distance daily. I know very little about road bikes, and I don't feel the need to drop serious coin on a road bike. I just want something that will be reliable, faster than my mountain bike, and cheap.

I have been looking on craigslist, and I have seen a bunch of old road bikes from the 70's or 80's for abou 250 (old raleigh's, bianchi's, etc). Some are well maintained, and I have considered scooping one up. 

Would an older road bike be a signifigant upgrade for commuting over my mountain bike? Would the fact that the bike is older and out of date cause me to have problems keeping up if decided to do a road ride with friends who have nice road bikes? Should I just step up and get an entry level road bike? Any advice is welcome. I truly know nothing about road bikes, and I am a little intimidated about making this decision.


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## EBrider (Aug 9, 2009)

A 1980's bike will get you to work almost as well as a 2010 model, but yes there have been changes that will make getting replacement parts more difficult. The biggest is with the drive train. Road bikes have switched from freewheel to cassette systems with 9, 10 or 11 speeds and the new hubs are 130mm vs the older 126mm. You can still buy the older style chains, but you will have to special order other parts. Harris cyclery does have a good selection of old stuff, and although it is out of production, there still seems to be plenty of inventory. Of course many of the drive train changes are nice upgrades and will make you ride more enjoyable, and if you plan to ride in the rain, the new hubs and bottom brackets generally hold up a little better. 

My road bike is a steel frame from the 80's, which I have upgraded the wheels, drivetrain and shifters to current standards. Only the frame, stem and headset are original. I ordered a new frame, so that will change.

I would either buy a new, relatively inexpensive bike, or upgrade an older model so you have less maintenance headaches.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*I think what you are looking at is considered*

a Sport Tourer. It has a relaxed geometry and can handle some weight you might need to carry, it has eyelets for racks and fenders, it can accommodate larger tires (28-35mm) but still has the positioning of a race bike/downturned handlebars. A variety of companies make something like this Soma, Surley, Gunnar, come to mind I know there are others. I own/ride a sport tourer on multi day trips due to the comfort of the bigger tires, geometry. It has barend shifters that can be either friction or indexed on the rear, friction only on front. If you wanted to go used I hope others will chime in on what to look for in frames, there are plenty of good old Japanese frames out there like this. Early Treks, Nishiki, upper model Schwinns (Voyageur, World Voyageur) Panasonic to name a few more. Some of these can be upgraded rather cheaply to a solid commuter ride with some newer yet compatable parts like Koolstop brakepads and bar end shifters in friction mode and a comfortable leather saddle like a Brooks or Velo Orange. Parts are out there, not too hard to find, just have to know where to look, we can help. Find a frame that fits, go from there.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

Thanks for the information. It is helpful. Do you think I would be able to hang with my friends who ride road for fitness, on commuting style road bikes. They do rides that average somewhere around 20 mph. Whatever bike I end up with I want it to be first and foremost a solid distance commuter. Although, I think it would be nice to be able to jump on the road with it and do organized rides with my friends while it is too muddy to ride mountain bikes. Would the steel frames or touring geometry prevent me from being able to hop on these rides comfortably? I have ridden with them before on a friends extra bike. I am hoping that these older bikes or touring bikes will be enough to jump in on some strictly recreational rides with my buds.


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## EBrider (Aug 9, 2009)

The material, steel instead of aluminum or carbon, and the geometry won't prevent you from hanging with your friends. If you have it set up as a "comfort bike", e.g. upright handle bars and wide tires, that would make it difficult. Check the Retro-classic forum for some tips on old bikes.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*That I think is strictly up to you*



codwater said:


> Thanks for the information. It is helpful. Do you think I would be able to hang with my friends who ride road for fitness, on commuting style road bikes. They do rides that average somewhere around 20 mph. Whatever bike I end up with I want it to be first and foremost a solid distance commuter. Although, I think it would be nice to be able to jump on the road with it and do organized rides with my friends while it is too muddy to ride mountain bikes. Would the steel frames or touring geometry prevent me from being able to hop on these rides comfortably? I have ridden with them before on a friends extra bike. I am hoping that these older bikes or touring bikes will be enough to jump in on some strictly recreational rides with my buds.


The engine(you) moves the bike, not the other way around. No doubt in my mind that you would be able to hang with your ride buddies IF you are in condition to do so. At the level of riding you are speaking of, the latest greatest bike is not going to make that big of a difference, it is a social event not a race. And a steel frame is probably what you will find in a Sport Tourer like I was speaking of. Here is a pic of mine, found at the LBS for $65 on the sidewalk I probably added another $5-600 in new parts to upgrade but the parts are really good stuff at today's standards.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

ARP said:


> The engine(you) moves the bike, not the other way around. No doubt in my mind that you would be able to hang with your ride buddies IF you are in condition to do so. At the level of riding you are speaking of, the latest greatest bike is not going to make that big of a difference, it is a social event not a race. And a steel frame is probably what you will find in a Sport Tourer like I was speaking of. Here is a pic of mine, found at the LBS for $65 on the sidewalk I probably added another $5-600 in new parts to upgrade but the parts are really good stuff at today's standards.



Thanks. Like I said, I really know very little about road biking. I mainly mountain bike, and I just feel like the group dynamic is bigger in road biking. It doesn't matter if you get left behind or leave someone behind in mountain biking. I feel like road biking has more of a pack mentality, and as someone who rarely road bikes, I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't going to feel like i was dragging a weight behind me. If I find something that fits me, I will feel a lot more comfortable about pulling the trigger on the purchase now.

Cool bike by the way. There is something about the shine of chrome.


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## StageHand (Dec 27, 2002)

You probably know more about road bikes than you think. the basics are the same: push the pedals, the crank turns a chainring which pulls the chain which . . . .

The point is, you know as much mechanically about road bikes as mountain bikes. You know how to gauge your comfort on a bike, you'll just need time to familiarize yourself with slightly different hand positions and handlebar widths. You probably have a favorite set of pedals (Use the same pedals on your roadbike. Really.).

Think about the advice you'd give a beginner mountain biker, and the advice to the beginning road biker is pretty similar. The big difference is that used road bikes get you much farther than used mountain bikes. There are no great advances in suspension technology for road bikes as there are in mountain bikes - the basic stuff is pretty similar to the way it was 20 years ago. A well-chosen used bike will give you a lot of feedback about fit, handling and frame material.


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## jeepinmike (May 23, 2007)

Considering your a MTB'er, you may want to look into a flat bar road bike, or hybrid. My Redline R550 gets me to work with a seat rack, does lunch rides, 62.5 mile charity rides, and runs to the store, but still can hang with a group if I wanted too. I have fat bar ends and basic aero bars in it, so I can get aero or sit up some, and change my hand position quite a bit.

Works for me.


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## ronbo613 (Jan 19, 2009)

I ride both a mountain bike and road bike. I live in the boonies so I can "commute" with either one. Both my bikes are "performance" bikes; Giant TranceX2 MTB and Cervelo Soloist(S1) road bike. 
If you are serious about bike riding, _any_ kind of riding, you should get a bike that is a little better than your abilities at the start. You may find that riding to work on a nice bike is pretty enjoyable and you may want to take an extra lap or two around town. I would look around for a used road bike that is not a full-on race bike, but maybe a step below that, but above a "hybrid". Flat bar "hybrids" are OK for commuting and runs to the store, but there is nothing like the feel of a nice road bike that is built for speed and distance.
I use a pair of Wellgo SPD pedals on my road bike so I can use the same shoes on my road or mountain bike and wear my helmet with the visor. Hardcore roadies would say that puts me in the "Fred" category, but I don't care, I just love to ride.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

Well, I went and checked a couple of bikes out. There was a schwinn world sport that was very heavy. It had old suntour compenants. It road very well and the fit felt great. I just don't know though. In the big ring and small cog, i got it going pretty fast, but it seemed like I needed a couple more cogs to really get that fast feel on a long straight away. It was selling fro 225, but i could probably talk the guy down a bit. 

I also went and talked about a raleigh clubman at my lbs, and the bike runs about a grand, but they didnt have any in stock. I talked to a guy I trust there, and he said that I would be a great primary commuter bike, but if i wanted to a 150 ride, just in on a group ride, or just hit the pavement for some excersise, that it would great for that too. 

There is a big difference in the price, and I just don't know what to do. If i get the schwinn, I can go get it today. If i get the Raleigh, it may be a good little while before I can afford it. Check out the pics and see what you think.


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## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

That's too much money for that Schwinn, by about $100.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*Have you been measured for frame size?*



codwater said:


> Well, I went and checked a couple of bikes out. There was a schwinn world sport that was very heavy. It had old suntour compenants. It road very well and the fit felt great. I just don't know though. In the big ring and small cog, i got it going pretty fast, but it seemed like I needed a couple more cogs to really get that fast feel on a long straight away. It was selling fro 225, but i could probably talk the guy down a bit.
> 
> I also went and talked about a raleigh clubman at my lbs, and the bike runs about a grand, but they didnt have any in stock. I talked to a guy I trust there, and he said that I would be a great primary commuter bike, but if i wanted to a 150 ride, just in on a group ride, or just hit the pavement for some excersise, that it would great for that too.
> 
> There is a big difference in the price, and I just don't know what to do. If i get the schwinn, I can go get it today. If i get the Raleigh, it may be a good little while before I can afford it. Check out the pics and see what you think.


Do you know what size will fit? I mean in general, ME PERSONALLY, I buy by top tube measurement, if the frame I'm considering is a 56.5 to 58 c to c, I can fiddle with saddle and stems to get the correct fit. As I'm looking at the pic of the Schwinn, the saddle is sitting on the top tube. The World Sport is mid/low in the Schwinn food chain, I think there is a website to set you straight on Schwinn models. What size wheels are on it? Getting back to my "find" it came with heavy alu rims and a 6 speed cassette. It now has Mavic Open Pro/Ultegra hubs 10 cog rear cassette with a triple front and bar end shifters. That wheelset in the grand scheme was cheap, was under $200. The DA bar end shifters $80, crank $100 You could find 105 triple (hell I have one sitting in my parts bin) or go with a double compact depending upon your area terrain. If the wheelset is 27" to do a 700 wheelset you'll need long reach calipers. It will take some educating to find the right used frame/bike but some will say that is part of the fun. I saw a few old Trek 720 bikes on ebay, that is a very good frame. Reynolds 531 silver fillet brazed. The Voyageur is a 4130 steel, not great but good enough for me. Anything is fixable to get what you want, we still have answers.

In a word, I would pass on anything that is in those pictures.


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## Reynolds531 (Nov 8, 2002)

My Own Private Idaho said:


> That's too much money for that Schwinn, by about $100.


Agree. $125 for that Schwinn might even be high unless it has been recently rebuilt--new chain, calbles, brake pads, wheels trued with bearings cleaned, lubed, and adjusted.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

Thanks for the input. I am glad I didnt impulse buy this bike. I measured the bike, and it was about a 54. With the seat raised about 3-4 inches from the top tube, the bike seemed to be a perfect fit. It was as heavy, if not heavier, than my full suspension mountain bike. That combined with the ease I felt pedaling in the big ring small cog are essentially what 

Buying a used schwinn seems to be a rediculous task since the company has had ups and downs. I can eye a cheap schwinn mountain bike, but it is tougher for me do so when it comes to road bikes. Finding a good used road bike might turn out to be a fruitless task. I live in a city overflowing with hipsters (i have no problem with hipsters), and their love and afinity for morphing older road bikes into fixies seems to have driven the market price of these older yet solid bikes up. The guy I went and saw today had about 20 old schwinns, and there were more people there looking than were at my lbs when I stopped by. I guess it's back to the drawing board for me. I will keep everyone updated should I find something worthwhile before I save enough money for a new bike.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

I found this on craigslist. It is a 1999 Trek 320. It has all Shimanos RSX 7 speed componentats, and it is a size that I feel comfortable on. The price point is 250, but I am sure I can talk him down to 225 if not 200. I have never heard of RSX. I assume it is entry level stuff. Can it be replaced with 105? Let me know what you think about this bike for the money. I think these late 90's bikes might be where I need to shoot if I get a used bike. It is a little too new to fit into the fixie craze, and a little to old for a competitive cyclist to want. Any help is apreciated.

Bike info: 
1999 Trek 320. Bike is in excellent condition. Asking $250. 

Bicycle Type: Road/sport 
Size: 54cm 
Colors: Ice Royal Blue 
Frame Construction: TIG-welded 
Frame Tubing Material: Chromoly, double-butted 
Fork Brand & Model: Trek 
Fork Material: Chromoly 
Component Group: Road Mix 
Brakeset: Aluminum dual-pivot brakes, Shimano RSX STI levers 
Shift Levers: Shimano RSX STI Dual Control 
Front Derailleur: Shimano RSX, bottom-pull/clamp-on 28.6mm 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RSX 
Crankset: Cyclone, 32/42/52 teeth 
Pedals: Resin w/clips & straps 
Bottom Bracket: Tien Hsin 
BB Shell Width: 68mm English 
Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 28 teeth 
Chain: KMC Z-51, 1/2 x 3/32" 
Seatpost: Aluminum micro-adjust, 300mm, 26.6mm diameter 
Saddle: Velo 
Handlebar: Aluminum, drop style 
Handlebar: Stem Chromoly 
Headset: 1" Victor VP-H692W 
Hubs: Kung Ten aluminum, Q/R 
Rims: Vuelta Airline, 32-hole 
Tires: 700 x 28c 
Spoke Brand: Stainless steel, 2.0mm straight gauge 
Spoke Nipples: Brass nipples


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## mitmoned (Apr 7, 2008)

codwater said:


> I found this on craigslist. It is a 1999 Trek 320. It has all Shimanos RSX 7 speed componentats, and it is a size that I feel comfortable on. The price point is 250, but I am sure I can talk him down to 225 if not 200. I have never heard of RSX. I assume it is entry level stuff. Can it be replaced with 105? Let me know what you think about this bike for the money. I think these late 90's bikes might be where I need to shoot if I get a used bike. It is a little too new to fit into the fixie craze, and a little to old for a competitive cyclist to want. Any help is apreciated.


If that bike fits you the way it is setup in the picture (not lowering the saddle just to make it work for you) then yes, that bike seems to be worth it at that price point.

RSX was basically what 105 is today - lower end, but still solid. Make sure, before you buy, to test ride it and run through all the gears to make sure it shifts cleanly. If you can tell the difference between shifting problems related to old housing/cables verses shifter malfunctioning on a mountain bike, then hopefully you can tell the difference with those RSX shifters.

It's a steel bike and probably spaced 126mm for the rear axle, so that bike will upgrade to newer parts just fine.

Like I mentioned before, if that bike fits you and works really well as is, then that price is worth it for an eventually-upgrade-worthy starter. It'll probably be a bit heavier than your friends' bikes in your group ride, but like others have mentioned, it's more about the engine, not the bike.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

I'm test riding it Saturday. I am little uncertain if he will budge on the price. He has a couple of other people interested, but I am going to ask anyway, and if he won't budge, I will probably pull the trigger anyway.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

I tested the bike, and it has been very well maintained. Flawless shifting, and the bike is in great condition. It is a little on the heavy side, but I could feel the steel absorbing bumpes. I didn't really expect the steel to be as compliant as it is. I took my dog to an old shud down golf course and road the cart path with her. The path was paved like a sidewalk with about 4 feet sections. Each section had pretty thick grass patches between the cracks.I felt them each time I rolled over, but it was nothing like jar I have felt when i borrowed friends aluminum bikes. The fit does seem a tad on the small side for me, but i am going to try it out. If it doesn't feel right on long rides, I should be able to sell it easily to some fixie crazed hipster for more than I paid for it. What is wierd is that I think he coated the chain in WD 40. I'm going to clean chain, the cassette, and chainrings, then give it a proper lube. I am going to take it on a 10 mile test ride tomorrow. I will report back, and hopefully get some pics up.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

Took the bike for a 10 mile ride today with my wife and her brother. They were on a cruiser and a mountain bike respectively, so I didn't really open it up too much. We rode a mapped out ride that the local road/tri club does. Most of the ride is on streets where share the road signs and bike route paintings are posted. There is one section where the road is completely blocked off on the lakefront. I almost had a collision with someone, which brings me to a road bike etiqoutte question. I was riding along at a quick pace, but not too fast so my wife and brother in law could keep up. I turned my head a little to see if they were still behind me and my bike drifted a little in the direction I turned my head. As I drifted about a foot, some guy zipped by me at a pretty good click and about brushed me. It was bizzare because it didn't even seem to phase him. I guess he was in control of his bike and he knew we were not going to collide, but it surprised the hell out of me. On the mountain bike trail when we are making a pass, we make sure to yell and alert the rider. I understand it is different on the road. It is a lot wider than single tack. I am just curious who would be considered to be in the wrong had a collision happened.

Now on to the bike report. The RSX drivetrain shifted really well. The top tube felt a little bit too long, and the head tube felt a little to short. I just feel like I have to lean over little too far to hit the hoods and the drop position. I am thinking about swapping the bars out for H bars or moustache bars to bring the cockpit a little closer to me. The stem is already pretty short, and I don't think I could shorten it any. If I keep the drop bars, I want to put new tape on them. Right now there is foam on the bars. I took some picutres on my ride, and a few of the bike. Thanks for all the help. I should start commuting on it next week. I will keep everyone updated.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*Just some observations*

I would consider starting all over with your setup. If you feel like you are reaching too far for the bars it looks like your saddle is too far back and your bars are rolled too far forward. Bars tops and the location of your shifters, the tops of you bar should be almost level IOW roll them up, or clockwise when looking at them from the left side of the bike with the front of the bike to your left. Your hoods should be a furthest reach perch for your hands. Also if you still feel too stretched out, you can swap out your seatpost, it is a setback post. You could get a MTB micro adjusting post (2 bolts to adjust tilt) with zero setback and that should bring you forward enough. Might consider some help from your riding pals if they could set you up on a trainer and make some adjustments to get you a better fit with what you have in hand now. 

There is a school of thought on setting up a roadbike called Rivendell; the bar tops and the top of the saddle are the same height. Not and aggressive stance, but a comfort stance. Can't find the link. look for Rivendell bikes and read up on the Grant Peterson theory.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

ARP said:


> I would consider starting all over with your setup. If you feel like you are reaching too far for the bars it looks like your saddle is too far back and your bars are rolled too far forward. Bars tops and the location of your shifters, the tops of you bar should be almost level IOW roll them up, or clockwise when looking at them from the left side of the bike with the front of the bike to your left. Your hoods should be a furthest reach perch for your hands. Also if you still feel too stretched out, you can swap out your seatpost, it is a setback post. You could get a MTB micro adjusting post (2 bolts to adjust tilt) with zero setback and that should bring you forward enough. Might consider some help from your riding pals if they could set you up on a trainer and make some adjustments to get you a better fit with what you have in hand now.
> 
> There is a school of thought on setting up a roadbike called Rivendell; the bar tops and the top of the saddle are the same height. Not and aggressive stance, but a comfort stance. Can't find the link. look for Rivendell bikes and read up on the Grant Peterson theory.


Thanks for the advice. Something seemed wierd about the bars to me but I couldn't quite figure out what it was. After reading your post and thinking about it, the problem may not be the length of the top tube. What it really feels like, is that I have to lean over too far to hit the hoods and drop position. Even when I am bent over to far, I feel like I am too far back on the seat. I have some time to kill, so I am going to tinker around with the set up a little today.

I did a test commute today. I left my car at work over the weekend. I rode my bike there to retrieve the car. The rode bike has saved me 5 minutes on my commute, but I think I am going to have to alter my route. I didn't realize how dangerous my route would be on a road bike. There are several heavy traffic areas where I hop off the road and onto path worn into gras by people who take the bus or other bike commuters. This does not work so well on a road bike. I figured it would be safer to just take the lane in the high traffic areas. It think it was, but I was also surprised by impatience of the dirvers. I had several near brushes with vehicles. The route I take is comprised mostly of 4 lane roads that used to be busy streets, but are not in heavy use anymore due to people taking the interstate. People have plety of extra lane to pass, and usually give me tons of space. There is about a 400 yard stretch and a 100 yard stretch where people are getting on and off the interstate. These are the areas I usally hop of the road and on to an unoficial worn in path. My solution is going to be taking another route. I have used this route from time to time to switch up the scenery. It is comprised of mostly 2 lane residential streets. There is a lot less traffic, and I don't forsee any issues on a road bike.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*Also your bars are*



codwater said:


> Thanks for the advice. Something seemed wierd about the bars to me but I couldn't quite figure out what it was. After reading your post and thinking about it, the problem may not be the length of the top tube. What it really feels like, is that I have to lean over too far to hit the hoods and drop position. Even when I am bent over to far, I feel like I am too far back on the seat. I have some time to kill, so I am going to tinker around with the set up a little today.
> 
> I did a test commute today. I left my car at work over the weekend. I rode my bike there to retrieve the car. The rode bike has saved me 5 minutes on my commute, but I think I am going to have to alter my route. I didn't realize how dangerous my route would be on a road bike. There are several heavy traffic areas where I hop off the road and onto path worn into gras by people who take the bus or other bike commuters. This does not work so well on a road bike. I figured it would be safer to just take the lane in the high traffic areas. It think it was, but I was also surprised by impatience of the dirvers. I had several near brushes with vehicles. The route I take is comprised mostly of 4 lane roads that used to be busy streets, but are not in heavy use anymore due to people taking the interstate. People have plety of extra lane to pass, and usually give me tons of space. There is about a 400 yard stretch and a 100 yard stretch where people are getting on and off the interstate. These are the areas I usally hop of the road and on to an unoficial worn in path. My solution is going to be taking another route. I have used this route from time to time to switch up the scenery. It is comprised of mostly 2 lane residential streets. There is a lot less traffic, and I don't forsee any issues on a road bike.


ergonomic type, which I'm not a real fan of mainly because myself, I have to kinda contort my wrists to get a good grip on the drops if I go to the drops on an ergo bar. I would venture to guess that 98% of my riding is done with my hands on the hoods where I can operate both brakes and shifters, My second position is on the bar tops if I'm just loafing up a hill or it is pretty steep. Of course lastly the drops where I'm going fast DH. Bars I prefer are Nitto with a natural curve to them, not straight sections and then a curve and more straight.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

After logging about 30 miles on the bike over the weekend, I am having lower back pains. I made some adjustments to the set up, and i am going to give it little more time. I think the bike is just too small though. For my seat height to be correct, it is putting me well above the bars. I am going to ride it on a couple of medium rides this week, and if it still feels too small, I am going to sell it. I think I should be able to get what paid for it if not a little more, so no real loss. In fact, this has helped me learn a lot about fit. I think if I were to sit on another bike, I would be able to judge the fit a lot better now. From what I have learned, I need a bike that reduces the amount of lean it takes for me the top of the bars. The bike should also allow me to lean forward to the hoods for an extended period of time at a comfortable lean, that keeps my body slightly on the upright side. The drop position will be for flying downhills mostly and should be a secondary consideration to the other riding positions.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*I again will ask have you been measured for a frame size*

Sounds like you are getting ready to throw the baby out with the bath water. Take a look at several online sites like Lemond or Wrenchscience to figure out what frame size you need. You have a quill stem on your bike in picture, that can be replaced to give you more reach and actually Nitto makes a stem that raise the bar height so it is level with the saddle top if that is the direction you are leaning. As far as a drop height (saddle top to bar top) 2"-4" is an average. The way you currently have your bars, hoods and saddle set up in the picture, it hurts MY back. I would imagine you have to really hunch over to get to the hoods, not good. 

The fitting websites will get you in the ballpark, the actual set up I would consider going to aLBS for some help before selling off the bike. Also keep in mind that this road thing if you are kinda new to it, you got to develop a whole new set/series of muscles to handle it, it takes a little time. I can give you more fitting tips, others can too. just tell us what you think the problem is.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

ARP said:


> Sounds like you are getting ready to throw the baby out with the bath water. Take a look at several online sites like Lemond or Wrenchscience to figure out what frame size you need. You have a quill stem on your bike in picture, that can be replaced to give you more reach and actually Nitto makes a stem that raise the bar height so it is level with the saddle top if that is the direction you are leaning. As far as a drop height (saddle top to bar top) 2"-4" is an average. The way you currently have your bars, hoods and saddle set up in the picture, it hurts MY back. I would imagine you have to really hunch over to get to the hoods, not good.
> 
> The fitting websites will get you in the ballpark, the actual set up I would consider going to aLBS for some help before selling off the bike. Also keep in mind that this road thing if you are kinda new to it, you got to develop a whole new set/series of muscles to handle it, it takes a little time. I can give you more fitting tips, others can too. just tell us what you think the problem is.


Ok, I will give you my brief history with bikes and how this one feels. In late 2005 my aunt gave me an aluminum Cannondale caad 5 because she said it scared her to "go fast." 
It was a 52 ws bike. I rode it around town mostly to bars, shopping, and just general urban riding. A couple of times I got it up on the levy (which is a bike path that follows the Mississippi where local riders do back yard training.) My back had always ached a little after my bikes around town, but never anything serious. After my 25 mile bike ride, my back was throbbing and I had neck pain for a few days. I ended up selling it and replacing it with a mountain bike, which is what started my mountain bike obsession.

Our trail sometimes gets completely flooded and is not rideable for weeks sometimes. That is one reason I want a road bike. It would be nice to hop on to do some training rides with the roadies I know. The other reason is I think it will be more fun to commute on a road bike. I don't really see myself racing or getting too serious, but I would not mind touring or doing 150 km for charity.

I rode a 56 cm motobecane a friend was trying to sell, and it hurt me like hell on a 16 mile ride. My lower back was throbbing and my neck was completely cricked. It was kind of the same feeling I got on this bike. I was leaned to far over, and I had to strain my neck muscles to look ahead.

I was in a local shop recently eyeing a Specialized Tricross. The owner (a friend/acquaintance of mine) saw at me and talked me into riding it. After telling him my previous fit woes, he fitted me on a 54 cm Specialized Tricross. I test rode it but only for a few blocks. It felt great. It felt more upright. It was the best I have ever felt on any bike mountain of road. I just didn't have the money to drop on a new bike. That is why I went for the 54 cm used trek I bought. I suspect the geometry is far different on the cx bike than on this bike. I have used the online resources, and they say for racing I should be on a 54 and everything else like commuting and touring a 55-57. I am a little uncomfortable going to the shops and getting fitted to buy a used bike or go the bikesdirect.com route. My local shops have always been helpful and hooked me up when I needed it. I kind of feel bad for going this route, but I just won’t have the cash for a new bike until things settle down around here. It most likely will be 9 months or so before I am comfortable dropping 1300-2000 on a new bike. I guess I could always go in a pay for a pro fitting. Any idea how much that runs?

On to the problems with my current set up. I did roll the bars to make the top of them level. It helped tremendously. I have not pushed my seat back yet, but I can feel that I am seated too far back on the saddle. It feels like I have too much weight on the bars, and the fat part of my seat is too far forward between my legs. If I push the seat back, I still think I will have too much weight on my bars. I like the suggestion of a taller quill. The seat is about three cm above the bars, and from what I understand, it should be the opposite of that. When I ride I get neck pain and lower back pain. 

My problem with this bike at first was I was leaned over way to far. After taking some suggestions here and doing a little research I rolled the bars up to make the tops level. It helped tremendously but not enough. I am about to push the seat back. I have a feeling, that this will put me very close to a good fit. My saddle will still be 3 cm higher than my bars. 

Once I adjust the seat, I will try to get some shots and maybe a video of me riding bike to post to see what you think. I still need to get in touch with a few of my friends who ride road. I just don’t see them much anymore. They have pretty much switched completely to road, so I don’t see them as much as I used to.


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## ARP (Mar 7, 2002)

*Based upon your description I think you have the right size frame*



codwater said:


> Ok, I will give you my brief history with bikes and how this one feels. In late 2005 my aunt gave me an aluminum Cannondale caad 5 because she said it scared her to "go fast."
> It was a 52 ws bike. I rode it around town mostly to bars, shopping, and just general urban riding. A couple of times I got it up on the levy (which is a bike path that follows the Mississippi where local riders do back yard training.) My back had always ached a little after my bikes around town, but never anything serious. After my 25 mile bike ride, my back was throbbing and I had neck pain for a few days. I ended up selling it and replacing it with a mountain bike, which is what started my mountain bike obsession.
> 
> Our trail sometimes gets completely flooded and is not rideable for weeks sometimes. That is one reason I want a road bike. It would be nice to hop on to do some training rides with the roadies I know. The other reason is I think it will be more fun to commute on a road bike. I don't really see myself racing or getting too serious, but I would not mind touring or doing 150 km for charity.
> ...


3cm drop is probably as close to level as you might get and of course you can raise your stem that 3cm since it is a quill stem. Loosen that allen bolt in the center of the stem where it slides into the steer tube and pull it out. There should be a "max insert" line stamped on the stem, use that as a start point for lowering. Next thing to consider is the hand position. That will involve removing your bar tape (you need white anyway  ) and positioning the hoods to a favorite location, which if you look at where your bar starts to bend downward you place the hoods so that they become an extension of the level tops of the bar or maybe a little back from there so they tilt up and are a natural hand hold position.

Saddle position and height. To get the saddle the correct height, align the crank arm so it is in line with the seat tube of the frame, put your heel on the pedal and full straighten your leg(around the 5:30 position) and the saddle should just brush your butt. I use a chair on the opposite side and balance to get the right height. By doing this when you pedal there will be a slight amount of flex left in your knee. Saddle angle, this might resolve your too much weight on wrist problem, level is a good place to start, tilting the nose up just a little will roll your hips rearward and take some pressure off your hands.


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## codwater (Jul 1, 2010)

ARP said:


> 3cm drop is probably as close to level as you might get and of course you can raise your stem that 3cm since it is a quill stem. Loosen that allen bolt in the center of the stem where it slides into the steer tube and pull it out. There should be a "max insert" line stamped on the stem, use that as a start point for lowering. Next thing to consider is the hand position. That will involve removing your bar tape (you need white anyway  ) and positioning the hoods to a favorite location, which if you look at where your bar starts to bend downward you place the hoods so that they become an extension of the level tops of the bar or maybe a little back from there so they tilt up and are a natural hand hold position.
> 
> Saddle position and height. To get the saddle the correct height, align the crank arm so it is in line with the seat tube of the frame, put your heel on the pedal and full straighten your leg(around the 5:30 position) and the saddle should just brush your butt. I use a chair on the opposite side and balance to get the right height. By doing this when you pedal there will be a slight amount of flex left in your knee. Saddle angle, this might resolve your too much weight on wrist problem, level is a good place to start, tilting the nose up just a little will roll your hips rearward and take some pressure off your hands.


I rode about 5 miles yesterday before raising the quill and adjusting the seat. It felt a lot better than it did previously, but I didn't log enough mileage to really find out if it primo.

I raised the quill stem to it's max recomended height. I pushed the seat back to where it should be. I took floor to top if the bar, and floor toe top of the sadle measurements, and I am sitting about 1.5 cm above the bars now. With this quill stem, this is the best I am going to get. It was late when I did it, so I haven't ridden yet. I did sit on the bike and prop myself againsts a door frame. The set up is 100 times more comfortable than it was on my first ride.

I am going to figure out what I need to change about my commuting pack to make it more apropriate for road riding. Obviously a high pressure mini pump and a road tube will need to be added. I may also go ahead and pick out some bar tape. From what I understand, the material is a personal choice. I am going to try and find something with a royal blue and white/grey/tan blot print. I am sure I can figure out how to wrap the bars, or find a resource on this forum. Thanks for all the help. I feel pretty confident about my set up. I will know more after a week of commuting, then I can decide what to do with the bike. I have learned a ton this week just on set up, and pinpointing what is causing discomfort. I will try to give a ride report tonight, and then again next week after I put in some commuting mileage.


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