# Campy Ultrashift Lever Handlebar Tape Routing...



## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Thought I would query the Campy contingent on how they route their handlebar tape just behind the top of the Ultrashift shifter body under the hood boot. Please see pic below. What I do is bring the bar tape up from below and shingle just the rear edge of the shifter body where the cable housings exit. Then I overwrap most of the tape a second wrap to build the tape up slightly trying to flush out the prominent rear edge of the shifter body and finish taping the top of the handlebar. Obviously the objective is...to make the hood boot as level as possible without a bump at the back of the boot as it blends to the handlebar.

My question is...in an effort to minimize any bump to the hood boot in the back, do you guys wrap with the first wrap 'under' aka tuck the edge of the tape under the rear of the shifter body edge?...or do you shingle the rear edge of the hood body like I show in the picture? Note: if you wrap aka shingle more of the shifter body in front of the rear edge...I find this creates a bulge in the rear of the hood boot that is uncomfortable.

There maybe no clear consensus here how each of us wrap our bars to idealize ergos which is major factor of why we choose these shifters...for me at least...however curious what approach you guys take?
Thanks.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

Your choice of bar can affect this problem. Some create a bigger gap between the bar and ergo body. I find that the placement of the wrap at the lower edge of the ergo body is different than earlier models. Early models had a provision for the tape to go under the lower edge of the ergo body, while the 2009+ models don't. A significant overlap of the lower edge is required, so I can bring the tape up and over the top, with no need for any second wrap in the area that you've shown. That usually means a large overlap of the ergo body at the top edge.

One easy solution to the mismatch is to use something other than bar tape to fix the mismatch. Try a product called camper seal. It's foam rubber tape with a mild adhesive on one side that works well to build up the area just behind the ergo body. Put that in place first and there won't be any significant mismatch. You can also apply electrical tape over it, so it will stay in place, even if the bar tape is removed.

http://www.doitbest.com/Sealing+and...+Products-model-02352-doitbest-sku-271187.dib

I use conventional round bars (Easton EC90-SLX3) and route the shift cable so it makes a fast transition from the ergo body, under the bar and routes behind and along the brake cable, so my palm never touches it.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

C-40 said:


> Your choice of bar can affect this problem. Some create a bigger gap between the bar and ergo body. I find that the placement of the wrap at the lower edge of the ergo body is different than earlier models. Early models had a provision for the tape to go under the lower edge of the ergo body, while the 2009+ models don't. A significant overlap of the lower edge is required, so I can bring the tape up and over the top, with no need for any second wrap in the area that you've shown. That usually means a large overlap of the ergo body at the top edge.
> 
> One easy solution to the mismatch is to use something other than bar tape to fix the mismatch. Try a product called camper seal. It's foam rubber tape with a mild adhesive on one side that works well to build up the area just behind the ergo body. Put that in place first and there won't be any significant mismatch. You can also apply electrical tape over it, so it will stay in place, even if the bar tape is removed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your comments C-40. Yes, bar curve is critical and completely changes the equation as you state. I can't ride a bar that converges downward to the back of the shifter body hood top land. This creates a pressure point on the heel of my hand. This is why the FSA Kwing handlebar works so well for me. It is in effect a flat extension of the hood thereby increasing surface area and more room for the bottom of my hand.
I just returned from a 50 mile ride and my hands feel good and the latest position of the Ultrashift levers is working nicely. There is alway room for refinement and I may use a product as you propose or...what also works nicely for those interested is a square from an old tube and two face tape under it...and wrap with electrical tape as you suggest for further stability.

I will try to take a couple of pics tomorrow. In spite of what you wrote about not being able to fit a bar tape under the back edge of the shifter body...I was able to and this creates an even a friendlier and more planar top boot/hood in the rear compared to shingling/wrapping the edge with a wrap of bar tape..
Thanks again.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

C-40,
Here is a picture of my latest tape routing which belies what you wrote about not being able to tuck the tape under the rear top edge of the shifter body. It can readily be done...and with complete clamping of the shifter to the bar. So a significant overlap is NOT required as shown....and a complete wrap over the edge of the top rear of the shifter body creates a considerable bump in the rear of the hood boot. Shown routing creates the flatest rear lip of the hood boot as it intersects with the handlebar.

A question about your derailleur housing routing. You state best to route the housing to the inside of the handlebar which no question would improve outboard hand contact with the bar for greater comfort. So I am reconsidering my derailleur cable routing. My question pertains to increased cable friction and degraded shift quality comparing inside handlebar radius versus routing the housing to the rear of the handlebar. In theory of course routing the housing to the rear of the handlebar increases the radius of routing and decreasing cable friction. Do you notice any difference in shift quality of routing to the inside versus to the outside of the handlebar as no doubt you have experimented with both?

Lastly, putting this question to all the guys here that are Campy users. Which derailleur housing routing do you choose? Do you route cables In front or around the back of the handlebar?
Thanks.


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## castofone (Dec 24, 2010)

I put a little bite of bar tape under the wrap to bring the tape up flush with the brifter body. It's pretty smooth and nicely plush.


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

roadworthy said:


> Lastly, putting this question to all the guys here that are Campy users. Which derailleur housing routing do you choose? Do you route cables In front or around the back of the handlebar?
> Thanks.


I use the Easton EC-90 SLX3 handlebar, which is very short reach. I've routed both ways and haven't noticed much difference in shifting. 

Somewhat unrelated: how do you guys make the der cable go into the right hole (s) in the junction on the body that determines the routing that it takes? I usually end up having to overshoot, make a loop, and then pull down both ends violently, which makes a little knot. Usually there is more than enough cable length, so if I make sure that the knotting happens near the end, I just snip it off. 

But is there a more clever way?


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

orange_julius said:


> I use the Easton EC-90 SLX3 handlebar, which is very short reach. I've routed both ways and haven't noticed much difference in shifting.
> 
> Somewhat unrelated: *how do you guys make the der cable go into the right hole (s) in the junction on the body that determines the routing that it takes? I usually end up having to overshoot, make a loop, and then pull down both ends violently, which makes a little knot. Usually there is more than enough cable length, so if I make sure that the knotting happens near the end, I just snip it off.
> *
> But is there a more clever way?


Thanks for your input on routing not affecting shift quality to a noticable degree.
As to your question about internal bare cable routing through the shifter body...a good question and one that likely all of us have toiled with. I have done it both ways.
The method you state is what is easiest. I do this very close to the end of the cable as you state. It really doesn't have to be violent per se...but no it isn't very elegant or Campyesque IMO...but most expedient. Quick tug on end of the cable with it routed through the small hole to exit the shifter. Yes it does kink the cable. I have also taken this kink out but never as clean as cutting it off. A further note for me...I don't use Campy cable for my rear derailleur. I use the longer 2300mm Jagwire Ripcord cable...which works better for my XL Roubaix with tall head tube....I need the longer derailleur cable to create an ample loop in back. The Jagwire Ripcord cable which is teflon coated is excellent btw for shift performance.
I have also routed the bare cable the more tedious method. This takes a very light bend on the end...good lighting for aging eyesight  and a jeweler's blade screwdriver to push the cable thru the small hole to exit the shifter. This technique is normally accompanied by several expletives cursing Campy engineer's for their lack of wisdom...DA by contrast has almost the identical cable attachment but slots the shifter body and no need to kink and curse the designer.  I like Campy shifters better however so they got it mostly right except for this inconvenience.
Cheers.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

+1 on using "camper sealing tape" to smooth that transition.

You can also buy it at Amazon, if it's not easily available locally.


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## rm -rf (Feb 27, 2006)

I've used a couple of pieces of old inner tube, trimmed to fit and held with electrical tape, then ran the bar tape as usual. I cut a smaller piece to fill in low spots, then a larger piece over it.

I like both cables on the front side of the bars.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

I think over the winter months I am once again going to tinker with my cable routing. It sounds as though many route their derailleur housings in _front of the handlebar _and like it. The biggest sensitivity of my hands after a long ride...not problematic...but sometimes I feel it...is percisely where my derailleur cables route around the _outside of bar as they exit the shifters. _Possible that relocating the cables to the inside will reduce this pressure point on the outboard palm of my hands. For my particular handlebar...the FSA Kwing, there really isn't much benefit in shimming the bar tape with any sort of underlisting as discussed to make the transistion to the bars from the hoods more planar...it is pretty flat using the practice shown above.
Thanks


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## orange_julius (Jan 24, 2003)

roadworthy said:


> I think over the winter months I am once again going to tinker with my cable routing. It sounds as though many route their derailleur housings in _front of the handlebar _and like it. The biggest sensitivity of my hands after a long ride...not problematic...but sometimes I feel it...is percisely where my derailleur cables route around the _outside of bar as they exit the shifters. _Possible that relocating the cables to the inside will reduce this pressure point on the outboard palm of my hands. For my particular handlebar...the FSA Kwing, there really isn't much benefit in shimming the bar tape with any sort of underlisting as discussed to make the transistion to the bars from the hoods more planar...it is pretty flat using the practice shown above.
> Thanks


On one of my bikes, I had routed the derailleur cable to come out the outside of the bend, but as it enters the bend, I make it so that it goes _under_ the bar. That way, when my hands are on the top of the bar, the cable is not in the way. To be fair, in order to do this I used electrical tape liberally! 

I wish I could send you a pic of this setup, but I had replaced the cables and now it's routed through the front.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Thanks orange_julius...
As it turns out, that is how I have my bars just above routed. Cables exit out the outside of the shifter bodies...route around the back edge and then move gradually underneath the tops. A further note on the Kwing bar is...the bar is designed for internal routing of brake + derailleur cables. I choose not to route my derailleur cables thru the Kwing because it creates sharper radii. The Kwing has pretty wide flat tops and if the cable stays on the back edge all the way around, this really makes the tops too wide to wrap hands around as you say.


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## Wazgilbert (Nov 7, 2012)

I've got the rear-most cable coming out of the shifter, tracing the curve of the bars, whilst dropping around the back to come under the bars exiting in front of the headset, that way when I'm riding in the tops, I don't have the cable ridge under the grip of my thumbs.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*video..*

I stumbled across this video from Campy. I noticed several differences from my procedure. To start with, most bar end plugs are sized so that bar tape goes inside the bar and the plugs are either installed last, or at least after the first few turns of tape are on. 

I wrap in the opposite direction (clockwise on the right), but there's no right or wrong, unless you have trouble with the tape loosening as a result of hand twist.

The mechanic did a poor job when he got to the lower edge of the ergo body. He needed a double wrap to get the tape over the lower edge of the ergo body. If the edge of the tape falls just short of the lower edge, back up several turns and overlap a little less, so the overlap is relatively uniform, all the way to the ergo body.

http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/servicevideo/videocatid_4_videoid_31.jsp


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Thanks for the video C40. My technique is similar but takes me a fair amount longer. I am pretty anal about my bar tape...in particular at the plugs...I like it tidy. I use 2" double sided tape at the bar ends to start my tape at the beginning nice and tight. You are quite right about getting the stagger correct...can accomplish this by varying amount of overlap. I do wrap CCW on the right and CW on the left. As with anything, you learn tricks over the years and never too old to learn something new.
I will unraveling my tape to reroute my derailleur cables to the front of the bar changing the exit point.
Believe this will improve hand comfort to the bar by removing a pressure point to the Guyon canal area of the hand.
Cheers.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Thanks for the video C40. My technique is similar but takes me a fair amount longer. I am pretty anal about my bar tape...in particular at the plugs...I like it tidy. I use 2" double sided tape at the bar ends to start my tape at the beginning nice and tight. You are quite right about getting the stagger correct...can accomplish this by varying amount of overlap. I do wrap CCW on the right and CW on the left. As with anything, you learn tricks over the years and never too old to learn something new.
I will unravel my tape to reroute my derailleur cables to the front of the bar changing the exit point from outboard to more center point at the back edge of the shifter body.

Believe this will improve hand comfort on the hoods where they blend to the handlebar behind the shifter by removing the cable pressure point to the Guyon canal area of the hand....a critical contact area.
Cheers.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Over the weekend I re-routed the cables which are pretty close to new on my Campy 10s Ultrashift set up.
For as many years I can remember, I always routed the derailleur cables around the back of my handlebars. I did this mostly because I believed this to be the path of least resistance for internal cable friction. Now having re-routed the cables in front of the handlebar, I am not so sure the cable radii is tighter. I can say preliminarily, I prefer this new routing in front of the handlebar because the rearward sweep of the drop bar behind the hoods feels more natural without the cable exiting there. It also looks cleaner adding less width to the top of the bars as they bend around to the tops.
Shifting on the stand...weather is pretty frightful this weekend, wet and cold...is as good as routing the cables behind the handlebar so I am encouraged by this new approach.

Thanks to you guys for your input.


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

question about routing of cables thru the ultra shifters as Campagnolo is somewhat unclear which holes are proper. Have assumes Rear Der is Right side exiting top towards stem with rear brake exiting inside below der cable. & Front der. is Left side top towards stem with front brake inside below.
This appears to leave a slot going aft? Is this for another option of cable routing?
thanx


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

The brake cables can only be routed out the front, but the shift cables can be routed along the front of the bar or along the back of the bar. I always used the front routing with pre-2009 ergos, but switched to the back routing with the new ultrashift levers. I use short (75mm) reach bars and the bend in the housing is just too tight with front routing of the shift cables. See page 15 of the PDF.


http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/EP_ultra-shift.pdf


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

Appears the 2 separate channels I am confused by one being for in front of bars being the inside channel & for behind the bars being straight to rear channel. This being the removable bit on top of ultra shifter 
There is another channel where the brake cables exit out from on the inside of the control unit.
Yes some of us are easily bewildered.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

The small removable piece of plastic provides the two routing for the shift cable. One goes stright back and the other curves off the the inside.

You haven't looked very close if you haven't noticed the innermost hole in the ergo body for the brake cable. Stick a cable into the brake lever and watch where it comes out.


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

Yes Brake cable is routed, the 2 way derailer routing threw me off as it is not that I could see noted other than one for shifter one for brake. thanx


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

C-40 said:


> The brake cables can only be routed out the front, but the shift cables can be routed along the front of the bar or along the back of the bar. I always used the front routing with pre-2009 ergos, but switched to the back routing with the new ultrashift levers. I use short (75mm) reach bars and the bend in the housing is just too tight with front routing of the shift cables. See page 15 of the PDF.
> 
> 
> http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/EP_ultra-shift.pdf


I do the opposite based upon a lot of feedback from other Campy owners. I always routed pre-2009 Campy lever derailleur cables around the back of bars...and I just changed the routing of my 2010 Ultralevers. I now route the derailleur cables in front of the handlebar. My experience is short reach compact handlebars which are now very common do not change the dynamic of front versus rear bar routing...or shouldn't. My handlebar of choice is the FSA K-wing Compact which has 78mm reach. I will add, both front and rear derailleurs shift perfectly with front routing.


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

Do I assume the cable sheath's are cut with ok no assumptions, what do you cut the outer sheath for the cable with? Can the outer sheath be cut with the same bicycle cable cutter?


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

seaswood said:


> Do I assume the cable sheath's are cut with ok no assumptions, what do you cut the outer sheath for the cable with? Can the outer sheath be cut with the same bicycle cable cutter?


YES.

1) Always insert the original, factory-cut ends of the casing into the shifter body. It is a better cut, 'square" end.

2) Use a good quality cable cutting tool (eg, Park, Pedros) that is in good condition, SHARP, and has not been abused.

3) The shifter casing has steel reinforcements that run in same direction as the casing, and leaves a nice square cut. 
Check the cut end for No burrs or obstructions. Gently insert a small pick or awl into cut end, to enlarge the hole back to original size -- it usually has crimped a bit smaller when you cut it.
Verify a new shifter cable can freely and easily insert into the first few inches on both casing ends. 

4) The brake casing's steel reinforcements are spiral wound and a lot tricker to get a clean square cut.
Practice on a scrap piece of brake casing.
You likely will need a small file to remove sharp burrs.

Also on the brake casing:
Check the cut end for No burrs or obstructions. Gently insert a small pick or awl into cut end, to enlarge the hole back to original size -- it usually has crimped a bit smaller when you cut it.
Verify a new brake cable can freely and easily insert into the first few inches on both casing ends.

5) the short, pre-cut casing on the rear derailleur -- better to leave it full length, for a nice gradual arc. Do not shorten. 11sp is more sensitive to this.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Nice review by Tom. As discussed seaswood, brake cable housings are wound and derailleur cables have longitudnal strands. This make straight cuts with derailleur housings easier to make square. Brake housings are tricker. My trick is use a Park cable cutter and then many times...not always...take a dremmel cutoff wheel and square the cut such that no wound barb is sticking in the path of the inner cable. I also reap the end of all cables...and even touch with a countersink tool to debur the ID of the housing. For the best shifting groupset, it is all about installation including cutting the cables, routing and best lengths of cable for best flow of the internal cable. In my experience this matters more than what type of cables you use.


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

roadworthy said:


> ... My trick is use a Park cable cutter and then many times...not always...take a dremmel cutoff wheel and square the cut such that no wound barb is sticking in the path of the inner cable... .


Some weeks ago in the local 'Harbor Freight' tool store, I picked up a set of miniature, diamond coated cut-off discs, under $5. Looked "useful" even though I didnt have a specific need at the time. 
www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-diamond-coated-rotary-cutting-discs-69657.html

I later tested the cut-off disc, mounted in a pneumatic die grinder, on a scrap piece of brake casing. Lo and behold, looks like it might make very nice, burr-free cuts. 

For best results the casing should be clamped firmly & immobilized, to within a few millimeters of the cut. I didn't do that on my quick & dirty testing.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

tom_h said:


> Some weeks ago in the local 'Harbor Freight' tool store, I picked up a set of miniature, diamond coated cut-off discs, under $5. Looked "useful" even though I didnt have a specific need at the time.
> www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-diamond-coated-rotary-cutting-discs-69657.html
> 
> I later tested the cut-off disc, mounted in a pneumatic die grinder, on a scrap piece of brake casing. Lo and behold, looks like it might make very nice, burr-free cuts.
> ...


Air + die grinder + cutoff wheel = very square brake cable housing end 
It is almost rare to achieve a nice square cut with wound brake housing in my experience with Park cable cutters alone because the nature of wound housings...I almost always touch mine up with my dremmel with the bigger cut off wheels they sell...or use a flat grinding stone attachment to the dremmel. By contrast, longitudinal strand derailleur cables generally cut nice and square without dremmeling. Heat is the enemy of course when using a dremmel. Best not to cut or grind too long..melts the internal coating upstream from housing end...which then requires drilling out. Best to avoid this. With each recabling, those that work on their bikes learn new tricks. I would say most of the complains on the web about poor shifting is due more to improper set up more than any defective parts.
Cheers.


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

Tom thanks, I did have an older cutter that has seen slight use so I went ahead & used on the cables. used the ice pick to open ends just a guess really & a small flat file on the cable ends. 
I think everything is okay but had to divert back to the chain, since it is needed to test cables. Seems chain is best a tad longer, so I may go with that.
The RD casing I did cut seemed too long, this is a 10sp. 
Will test cable housing ends again before trying to shift front & rear.
Awaiting brakes from Ribble will wait on brake sheaths, but good to know they are harder require more attention to cutting.
Many thanks for the instructions.


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## seaswood (Apr 8, 2012)

Thanks for the instructions above I also made the mistake of inserting cable when lever was not all the way down hence unable to be properly routed.
it did make sense to start over & remove the grips to see where the cable ends needed to go.
Did the brakes this morning, but will have to some more reading to properly adjust the derail ears. I was getting adjustment out of phase the longer I tried to do adjustments.
Go figer. Maybe. LBS this time.


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