# SRAM Runs Better with a DA7900 Chain



## master2129

As a non scientific experiment, I took my 1090R chain off and switched it for a DA7900 Chain. I have to say that I'm amazed at the difference in shifting and noise. The DA7900 chain makes the SRAM drivetrain work even better. The shifting is more crisp. Chain rub is non existent in super cross chain situations and the noise on the rear cassette is virtually silent. Amazing! No wonder Astana and Saxo Bank run this set up. It simply works better. :thumbsup:


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## magic

I did the flip, had a DA chain and replaced it with a 1090R. I like the DA shifting better too. Will be going back to DA when the 1090R is stretched out.


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## paul l

It's very confusing when confronted with conflicting stories. At least one other has said in another thread they felt moving from DA to SRAM chain was better. Another said it was down to an appropriate lube and SRAM chains are as quiet when you get the lube right. A bit like the FD debate. One person said the Park Tool site showed cable routing different to how he had it and when making that change the front shifting became as easy as any other brand.

I also can't work out whether SRAM Rival chainsets are about the stiffest out there and certainly stiffest per £or $ or whether they are as weak and problematic as others suggest. Whether SRAM chainrings wear quicker than others or wear less than DA.

Frankly, you don't know what to believe amidst it all. With a Rival equipped bike arirving in a couple of days my bike shop had to give me several reassurances that it's all in the set-up and that as long term Campag & Shimano users they really rate the engineering.

Campag called Campy in America, don't get me started on that one.


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## magic

I've had 1070, DA and now 1090R chain in that order on my bike. Liked the DA best. I find noise is usually eliminated by cleaning and lubing the chain. This bike only sees nice weather days, the chain stays pretty clean but gets a lot of miles.


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## Weav

I have a full Rival setup with a 1050 chain. When it's time to replace my chain what should I go with? Can I use DA 7900 chain on Rival? What will I notice in improvement?


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## Wheelman55

There are a lot of opinions on the board. I know a number of riders who have changed to Shimano chains for SRAM drive trains due to noise. Your new Rival bike is going to be awesome and you will hopefully fall in love with it. When it comes time for a new chain try something else if you don't like what came on the bike. Chains/cassettes/tires and to some extent chain rings need to be thought of as consumables...you'll wear them out and replace before most other parts on the bike. Bottom line is to enjoy what you have...it's very good product.

MOST IMPORTANT...LUBE THE CHAIN RIGHT AWAY FROM DAY 1. Then keep the drive train clean and lubed. You'll stay happy that way.

In my experience even top of the line components can be made to run poorly if they are not set up properly. If your new bike doesn't run well insist that the LBS make it right. You paid for this service.

I recently was able to test ride Campy Super Record, Shimano DA and SRAM Red. Both the SR and DA bikes had mechanical issues due to not being set up correctly. I was able to "fix" the DA issue while on the test ride but the Campy issue was beyond a simple tweek. Bottom line is mechanics can make or break the performance of your new bike.

This is off topic...one inexpensive upgrade to consider right away is better cables...like the Shimano SP41's. Your components will perform much better. Also off topic...the next upgrade to make is wheels, not components (providing the bike frame is a good fit for you of course).

Cheers.


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## steve90068

I can honestly say that my KMC x10 SL chain is the best 50 bucks i ever spent on my bike. I have 09 rival and it was noisy and clunky with my PC1030 chain. Now, ninja silent, perfect shifts....its amazing. check out some reviews on bikefoums.net about it.

you can get one here http://www.ebikestop.com/kmc_x10sl_10_speed_chain-CH4113.php or ebay


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## AJL

Too add to what WheelMan55 said; use wet lube if you want to quiet down your drive train. I use Finish Line Web lube right now, but I want to give Chain-L (*) a try when I run out. Make sure you use a rag to get the excess chain lube off when you are done.

Also, keep the chain clean (+ rings & cogs as needed). I like to clean my chain every two or three weeks. My Finish Line chain cleaner just broke, so I'm going to try Park's unit instead. I try to use a rag and wipe my chain down after each ride and lube once per week. This is @ ~ 100mi/week (lots of sandy roads in the summer).


*I am a bit curious about ProGold ProLink - I've heard some good things about this stuff.


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## Weav

What is a wet lube? I use White Lighting self cleaning wax lube.


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## AJL

Weav said:


> What is a wet lube? I use White Lighting self cleaning wax lube.


It's not dry like WL. It stays wet after application and is typically a blend of oils (natural and synthetic). It's main advantage is that it gets into the small gap around the pins more readily* - lubricating the most important part of the chain.

Downside it that wet lubes (being wet after all) pick up dust, fine sand and other light debris more easily - thus requiring more TLC.

* between the rollers and the pins, to be a bit more accurate.


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## asad137

AJL said:


> but I want to give Chain-L (*) a try when I run out.


Chain-L quieted down my SRAM Rival drivetrain (with Ultegra chain) significantly. FWIW.

Asad


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## PlatyPius

Since I can't stand Shimano in general, I use a Wipperman chain on my Force bike (and on my Record bike and my Centaur bike) with no issues. I was using a Red cassette on my Force bike, but couldn't take the noise any longer. Now I have a Rival cassette with the Wipperman chain and all is good.


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## ssing20

PlatyPius said:


> Since I can't stand Shimano in general, I use a Wipperman chain on my Force bike (and on my Record bike and my Centaur bike) with no issues. I was using a Red cassette on my Force bike, but couldn't take the noise any longer. Now I have a Rival cassette with the Wipperman chain and all is good.


Just curious, which Wipperman 10sp chain are you using?

http://www.connexchain.com/Bicycle-chains/10-Speed/1_326.html


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## PlatyPius

ssing20 said:


> Just curious, which Wipperman 10sp chain are you using?
> 
> http://www.connexchain.com/Bicycle-chains/10-Speed/1_326.html


The 10s8


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## 32and3cross

AJL said:


> Too add to what WheelMan55 said; use wet lube if you want to quiet down your drive train. I use Finish Line Web lube right now, but I want to give Chain-L (*) a try when I run out. Make sure you use a rag to get the excess chain lube off when you are done.
> 
> Also, keep the chain clean (+ rings & cogs as needed). I like to clean my chain every two or three weeks. My Finish Line chain cleaner just broke, so I'm going to try Park's unit instead. I try to use a rag and wipe my chain down after each ride and lube once per week. This is @ ~ 100mi/week (lots of sandy roads in the summer).
> 
> 
> *I am a bit curious about ProGold ProLink - I've heard some good things about this stuff.


I'll put a vote for ProLink. The stuff is great stays around for along time and and does a good job.


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## quickfeet18

I am using the 6700 ultegra cassette and chain and my bike went from noisy to super quiet overnight! Awesome combo, I have used sram chains too, I have found them to be poor shifting and noisy.


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## magic

I recently built out a TT/Tri bike, used Sram crank and cassette with KMC chain. Super quite and super smooth. I will be using a KMC on my road bike next time it needs a new chain. The KMC is quieter and smoother than DuraAce, 1070 or 1090R chains I've used.


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## cantride55

This post got me thinking, I've been running Red for a year now and have always run a D.A. chain., right from the start. The LBS suggested it over any other brand with Red when I was getting the frame built up. I somewhat dislike the fact that at 2 - 2500kms the shifting starts to go with the D.A. chain, seems a little fast for me but whatta gonna do? I recently put a new chain on and being the end of Oct. I cheaped out and bought a Ultegra. While I have only 6-800 km.s on this chain I can honestly say that I forgot it was an Ultegra, it seems to run as quiet (relative) and shifting is as quick and bang on as D.A.
Hmm. make me wonder.$8-$10.00 cheaper x 4 or 5 per year equal's the 6th. chain is free.


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## TucsonMTB

Great thread! Replacing the original SRAM chain on my Scott Addict at about 1700 miles with a Dura Ace CN-7900 chain made a huge improvement in shifting. Yeah, I have gotten better at using the double tap levers, but the bike never shifted this well before, no matter how carefully I shifted.


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## rcjunkie3000

*SRAM 1090R link connection questions*

When cleaning my chain I decided remove the 1090R with the Power Lock feature. I understand that it is permanent. I removed the chain using my Park chain tool and popped off one of the pins from a link next to the Power Lock.

My question is: Can I reuse the chain if I re-insert the pin with the chain tool? I am afraid it will work its way out on a long ride when I least expect it leaving me stranded. The Power Lock feature isn't for everyone. I tend to clean my components and miss the old way a Shimano chain connects and re-connects.

If I am hosed, I am considering getting a Dura Ace chain CN-7801 or 7900. Would both chains work smoothly with the 11-28 Powerdome cassette? Since this thread is about the 7900 I would assume that is better and lighter than the CN-7801.

Thanks for any help in advance.


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## CalfeeMan

*Clarification re: SRAM mix*

I am considering SRAM Red Shifters, Rear Der with Ultegra 6700 Brakes, Chain, Cassette, Crankset and front der. Will that work? Would it make sense to changout the Ultegra brakes for Red. Opinions welcome.


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## Wheelman55

6700 brakes are really nices however they are meant to work as a set with the 6700 brifters. The braking force on 6700 comes more from the new geometry of the brakes themselves than from pulling on the levers. I would think that you would be best off staying within the same group for the brakes...Red or Ultegra for both brakes and brifters.


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## SBH1973

*Replaced SRAM Red w/Dura Ace-Ultegra*

I replaced my SRAM Red Cassette and 1070 chain with an Ultegra Cassette and Dura Ace chain and it is all much quieter and smoother shifting. When the time comes to change out the cassette, I'll go all Dura Ace. But the SRAM stuff had to go.


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## AvantDale

I'm running the 1070 cassette with a DA7801 chain...mine makes noise in the three larger cogs. It gets super loud when the chain starts to get dry. I use the T-9 lube.


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## SROC3

I have an SRAM RED cassette and a DA7900 chain.....its like butter. WORKS GREAT


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## skaruda_23

rcjunkie3000 said:


> When cleaning my chain I decided remove the 1090R with the Power Lock feature. I understand that it is permanent. I removed the chain using my Park chain tool and popped off one of the pins from a link next to the Power Lock.
> 
> My question is: Can I reuse the chain if I re-insert the pin with the chain tool? I am afraid it will work its way out on a long ride when I least expect it leaving me stranded. The Power Lock feature isn't for everyone. I tend to clean my components and miss the old way a Shimano chain connects and re-connects.
> 
> If I am hosed, I am considering getting a Dura Ace chain CN-7801 or 7900. Would both chains work smoothly with the 11-28 Powerdome cassette? Since this thread is about the 7900 I would assume that is better and lighter than the CN-7801.
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance.


rcjunkie3000,

I run a KMC 10 speed quick link on my SRAM PC-1070 chain instead of the stupid powerlock connector. This makes it super easy to take off the chain whenever you need to and has never given me any issues regarding noise/shifting/wear etc. You might want to give it a try - my LBS sold me the link for 3 bucks.


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## rcjunkie3000

*SRAM Power Lock with 7900 chain*

My SRAM 1090R chain has finally stretched out fully according to the wear indicator tool it is now at 1.0.

I purchased a Dura Ace 7900 as a replacement. I have a couple new Power Lock connectors left over and I was wondering if they are compatible with the 7900 chain.

I haven't had a chance to try it yet because I am still waiting on my replacement Red Chainring before I install everything together.

skaruda_23 I will try a KMC quick link if the Power Lock doesnt work.

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:


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## bentley07

Using a Sram Red grouppo, will it make it better to change the chain, FD, and Casette to Dura Ace 7900?

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:


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## Coolhand

bentley07 said:


> Using a Sram Red grouppo, will it make it better to change the chain, FD, and Casette to Dura Ace 7900?
> 
> Thanks in advance :thumbsup:


No. 

Keep the cassette and front derailler, and use a cheaper than D/A and much better KMC or wipperman chain. 

If you are speccing a SRAM bike, go with the cheaper Force front derailler. The cage is stiffer. 

But if you like mushy, vague sifting, or non-rebuildable, heavy expensive parts- buy all means stock up on 7900 stuff. What does a set of 7900 chainrings cost now?


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## rubbersoul

I always get a chuckle reading that scram works better when you replace it with a shimano part. Loving my Dura ace 7900 and not intending to swap out ANY part of it to make it work better.
________
AVANDIA LAWYER


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## Coolhand

rubbersoul said:


> I always get a chuckle reading that scram works better when you replace it with a shimano part. Loving my Dura ace 7900 and not intending to swap out ANY part of it to make it work better.


Well some people do love vague, mushy shifting, heavier, more expensive parts, and not being able to rebuild your shifters. Yeah 7900!

Now, Di2 on the other hand (apart from the _crazy town_ pricing) is legitimately interesting at this point. If they get the pricing down by a 1/3, and more frame integration from the manufacturers, they may be on to something. . .


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## cantride55

If I just bought 7900's I'd say the same thing. Love Red, comfortable hand positions which can be adjusted, and are re-buildable. Ya, the casette (1090) kinda lacks and is both expensive and loud. The chains are "not so good". Thanks to Shimano for the cassettes and chains. Now I get the best of both worlds. Could not ask for more.


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## sa7nt

rubbersoul said:


> I always get a chuckle reading that scram works better when you replace it with a shimano part. Loving my Dura ace 7900 and not intending to swap out ANY part of it to make it work better.


Well done. Not only did you mock the name of the company, but you used capital letters to emphasize your argument. Thread over. SRAM sucks.


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## paul l

I stood in a bike shop here in Surrey England about 3 years ago mesmerised by the bike that Coppi I think it was rode in 1948. It's like looking at a Model T Ford when we all drive Bugatti Veyrons. Whenever I see a thread degenerate into handbag swinging I think back to that bike and that (1) Coppi would happily take your Shimano or SRAM complete groups off you and (2) we wouldn't get near his wheel to see which he chose, lots of laughs.

C'mon chaps, it's not about the bike


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## NEO Dan

rcjunkie3000 said:


> When cleaning my chain I decided remove the 1090R with the Power Lock feature. I understand that it is permanent. I removed the chain using my Park chain tool and popped off one of the pins from a link next to the Power Lock.
> 
> My question is: Can I reuse the chain if I re-insert the pin with the chain tool? I am afraid it will work its way out on a long ride when I least expect it leaving me stranded. The Power Lock feature isn't for everyone. I tend to clean my components and miss the old way a Shimano chain connects and re-connects.
> 
> If I am hosed, I am considering getting a Dura Ace chain CN-7801 or 7900. Would both chains work smoothly with the 11-28 Powerdome cassette? Since this thread is about the 7900 I would assume that is better and lighter than the CN-7801.
> 
> Thanks for any help in advance.


The Powerdome rings like a bell, so I run an Ultegra cassette and DA chain on my Rival setup. 
Dura Ace chains are $50 at Performance Bike. Also the reusable Wippermann Connex 10S1 10-speed Chain Connector is great as it requires no tools to get the chain on or off. Also check out the Performace coupon thread in Hot Deals for latest discount codes.


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## rubbersoul

Best way to make Sram run better is to swap it totally out for Dura Ace 7900!


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## Josh8

When I built my bike with Rival I tried it originally with a 105 chain and it sucked. Switched to a KMC and it was instantly better. Haven't tried with a Sram chain.


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## HazemBata

Just purchased some Chain-L lube. Great stuff. My drive train is dead silent.

The viscosity is just right and it doesnt pick up much dirt.


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## TucsonMTB

HazemBata said:


> Just purchased some Chain-L lube. Great stuff. My drive train is dead silent.
> 
> The viscosity is just right and it doesnt pick up much dirt.


So, did you have to remove the chain to apply it? I have some on order, but may not use it since removing pinned chains is a PITA.


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## HazemBata

TucsonMTB,

It was a new chain so it was already off.

Do you have a pin-removal tool? It's very east to remove pins if you have the tool. In fact, that was the first time I had used that tool to remove pins. Regardless, even if you want to keep the chain on, that's fine too. I suggest cleaning the chain with a thin lubricant (WD40 works great). Dont use a degreaser. You can leave WD40 on the chain and all it will do is slightly thin out the new lubricant, but WD40 itself is also a lubricant so that's fine. Degreaser is not a lubricant so you really have to clean the chain of degreaser after you've used it. Just clean with WD40, wipe off as much of the WD40 as you can, apply the Chain-L, let it sink in for at least 10 min (remember, it's a thicker lube so it takes longer to work it's way into the joints), spin the cranks and shift through all the gears to get a little oil on the drivetrain, then wipe off as much of the Chain-L as you can. Remember, it's only the oil that's in between the rivets that helps; everything else just picks up dirt. The rivets should now be well lubed and the rest of the chain has a very thin layer of oil to prevent rusting.


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## Weav

TucsonMTB, I put mine on with the chain on my bike. Do it the slow way, putting a small drop in each link. Make sure you mark where you start so you know when your done. Then let it sit for about 10 minutes and clean off with a rag. You'll have to wipe off after the first few rides because there will most likely be some splatter because the stuff is pretty thick and the overspray created when peddling tends to get a little bit on the frame and rim. Just clean them good and wipe the chain down well and after a few rides it will stop. It's a pain but you won't have to do this again for at least 1000 miles, it really lasts that long, even longer in good conditions.

Go to the website for Chain-L to get more accurate directions on how to apply to the chain on the bike.

Oh, and my SRAM drivetrain is almost dead silent. Sweet Stuff!!!!


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## Josh8

HazemBata said:


> TucsonMTB,
> 
> It was a new chain so it was already off.
> 
> Do you have a pin-removal tool? It's very east to remove pins if you have the tool. In fact, that was the first time I had used that tool to remove pins. Regardless, even if you want to keep the chain on, that's fine too. I suggest cleaning the chain with a thin lubricant (WD40 works great). Dont use a degreaser. You can leave WD40 on the chain and all it will do is slightly thin out the new lubricant, but WD40 itself is also a lubricant so that's fine. Degreaser is not a lubricant so you really have to clean the chain of degreaser after you've used it. Just clean with WD40, wipe off as much of the WD40 as you can, apply the Chain-L, let it sink in for at least 10 min (remember, it's a thicker lube so it takes longer to work it's way into the joints), spin the cranks and shift through all the gears to get a little oil on the drivetrain, then wipe off as much of the Chain-L as you can. Remember, it's only the oil that's in between the rivets that helps; everything else just picks up dirt. The rivets should now be well lubed and the rest of the chain has a very thin layer of oil to prevent rusting.


WD40 is not a lube it is a water displacement solution hence the WD.


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## TucsonMTB

HazemBata said:


> TucsonMTB,
> 
> It was a new chain so it was already off.
> 
> Do you have a pin-removal tool? It's very east to remove pins if you have the tool. In fact, that was the first time I had used that tool to remove pins.


Yes, thank you, I do have the tool. The DuraAce chains I use usually come with only two (2) installation pins. They're not reusable, according to Shimano. That's only part of my reluctance to remove the chain, unless I have to.  



Weav said:


> TucsonMTB, I put mine on with the chain on my bike. Do it the slow way, putting a small drop in each link. Make sure you mark where you start so you know when your done. Then let it sit for about 10 minutes and clean off with a rag. You'll have to wipe off after the first few rides because there will most likely be some splatter because the stuff is pretty thick and the overspray created when peddling tends to get a little bit on the frame and rim. Just clean them good and wipe the chain down well and after a few rides it will stop. It's a pain but you won't have to do this again for at least 1000 miles, it really lasts that long, even longer in good conditions.
> 
> Go to the website for Chain-L to get more accurate directions on how to apply to the chain on the bike.
> 
> Oh, and my SRAM drivetrain is almost dead silent. Sweet Stuff!!!!


Music to my ears! The stuff I am using lasts a good while, but the next time lubrication is indicated, I will try the Chain-L that should be arriving soon.

Thanks for sharing your insight. :thumbsup:


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## HazemBata

You can buy more pins. They come in sets of 5. I destroyed the first couple learning how to change them. Now i have three left that should last a long time.


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## scarab$

Josh8 said:


> WD40 is not a lube it is a water displacement solution hence the WD.


Best. Chainlube. Ever. Raced a ZX6-RR motorcycle for 3 years and various Ducati 748's before that... WD40 is all we put on chains. Never chain lube. Stuff is junk.

Grit wears chains. Keep them clean and they'll last 10 times longer than if you dump a bunch of oil, wax and grime on the links. WD40 is all you need. Spray on, wipe off excess. Done.

Replace your chain when it reaches it wear limit and don't spend $12 on a can of "lube"... Total waste of $$$. Buy carbon/Ti stuff instead.


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## 32and3cross

scarab$ said:


> Best. Chainlube. Ever.


Worst. Advice. Ever.


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## Chexcaliber

Wheelman55 said:


> 6700 brakes are really nices however they are meant to work as a set with the 6700 brifters. The braking force on 6700 comes more from the new geometry of the brakes themselves than from pulling on the levers. I would think that you would be best off staying within the same group for the brakes...Red or Ultegra for both brakes and brifters.


Huh? Don't all road brake levers pull the same amount of cable?


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## skyliner1004

does the ultegra chain work just as good as the dura ace chain? And is the ultegra chain better on my Rival drivetrain or the stock Rival chain?


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## AvantDale

I'm running a dura ace 7801 on a pg 1070 cassette, and that shits still pretty loud.


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## scarab$

32and3cross said:


> Worst. Advice. Ever.


No worries... We had the same bi-partisan discussion regarding WD40 in the motorcycling community. Slow guys and pie riders thought it was the devil's work and asked the free world to burn every can; fast guys used it by the case.

One thing I beleive we might all agree on... Don't use motorcycle chain lube on your bicycle chain.


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