# Pedal Advice *Time vs. Shimano*



## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a bit of advice here regarding Time pedals compared to Shimano. In the past I have ridden Shimano 105's, DuraAce Carbon, Speedplay Zero's and now Look Keo Blades trying to find the "perfect" pedal system for me. All of these had their problems:

Shimano 105/DuraAce Carbon-tension even lowest setting was a bit too high *I'm a 125pd flyweight....think schleck but weaker legs*, also if a missed clipping in my foot slipped off the front on the 105, the Carbon's seemed to not do this at all

Speedplay Zero's-Hated the fiddly parts/upkeep/cleats, also feet never felt as stable or solid as Look or Shimano

Look's-The cleats are not good, slippery+get chewed up fast, the durability of the exposed blade makes me nervous sometimes *I am human and do crash sometimes :blush2:*

Basically I'm considering going back to Shimano since cleat was leagues better and I had 100% confidence in the pedal's construction/strength. However, recently I have read about the Time iClic 2 and wonder if thats a good option.

I am stupidly bad at clipping in sometimes in Shimano/Look pedals, I miss that about Speedplay that it was no thought/super easy. I know Time uses a different method for this, is it "brainless" and easier than Shimano/Look? My toe aim for catching the pedal is pretty bad....

I'm torn between going back to Shimano and just HTFU about the clipping or trying Time to see if the clipping in is easier for my aim impaired self...

Any ideas RBR?


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## maxxevv (Jan 18, 2009)

Ride MTB pedals then ?


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## Guod (Jun 9, 2011)

Don't over think it when you try to clip in. I weigh a good bit more than you (175lbs) but I never have problems clipping into my LOOKs at starts, stop lights, etc., and I have the tension set pretty high. If I take the tension all the way down I can pop out while standing. As far as technique to catch the pedal, I just kinda slide my foot over the front of the pedal then stomp. The good LOOK cleats are also easier to walk in than the crummy ones that come with the classics and easys IMO, extra rubber bits. I'd say just practice more. If you haven't fallen over in front of people trying to clip in/out/stay stationary in a horribly embarrassing way yet, you haven't given it enough time.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Guod said:


> Don't over think it when you try to clip in. I weigh a good bit more than you (175lbs) but I never have problems clipping into my LOOKs at starts, stop lights, etc., and I have the tension set pretty high. If I take the tension all the way down I can pop out while standing. As far as technique to catch the pedal, I just kinda slide my foot over the front of the pedal then stomp. The good LOOK cleats are also easier to walk in than the crummy ones that come with the classics and easys IMO, extra rubber bits. I'd say just practice more. If you haven't fallen over in front of people trying to clip in/out/stay stationary in a horribly embarrassing way yet, you haven't given it enough time.


Oh no I have fallen a few times before, nothing major just a few slow-motion falls. Anyhow, this isn't really my main issue, my main problem is that I'm not liking the Look cleats in terms of feel and durability. This durability concern also follows over to the pedals themselves.

I can work on clipping in technique more however I was wondering if anyone had experience with Time and Shimano that could comment on clipping in with the iClic's? I have read about them a bit but still not sure how this translates to real world feel/use compared to the tried and true Shimano/Look design.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

maxxevv said:


> Ride MTB pedals then ?


SPD mtb cleats/pedals are my preference. Started with them mtbing but like them on the road bikes too.


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

imo just toughen up against SPD-SL, or stay with Look. There are times where I've had to walk for a mile or so to get home on SPD-SL cleats. I'm still on the same pair after a year. 

i-Clics are mostly regarded for their float (for people who like float) with the clip-in being reasonably easy, but they've had like 3 cleat revisions because of reliability issues. I think the pedal itself had weak spots. Not sure how the i-Clic 2 in particular is doing though. The basic setup is $85 at Ribble Cycles atm for what could be a worthwhile risk in trying.

Another option is Mavic, which uses a Look-like design.I haven't heard much of them but my neighbor likes his setup.


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## qatarbhoy (Aug 17, 2009)

Guod said:


> I'd say just practice more.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ not only the correct answer, but practice is free*.

*(Sorry, yes, I guess I hate America.  )


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

i switched to i-clics at the end of last year after years of spd-sl. still use the shimano on the track bike, it's easy to set up w/ toe straps. i find the time pedals to be very easy to click into. they're basically 'open' after you click out, so you don't have to overcome the spring tension of the tailpiece to get in. if you've tried this many pedal systems, it's obviously not going to break you to try one more, and you will probably really like it. i've had no problems w/ cleats, or any part of the pedal. so far so good.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

I use Time RXS having tried Dura Ace SPD SL. They're definitely different in the float "feel" and I happen to like it better.

My advice: Buy a pair and just try them. The RXS can be found pretty cheap, about $90 if I'm not mistaken, and cheaper of course if you go for a used pair. If you don't like them, even if you sell them for 1/2, you won't be out a heck of a lot of money. Really, that's the only way to find out if you like them better.

Again, they are definitely different than the SPD SL / Look design (Which is essentially identical in function), and worth a try, imho.

I have no experience with the IClic, but the RXS is a nice pedal system.

By the way, I think's fairly common for very light men and women to have problems with SPD SL release.


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

I used Time iClic for a year and although I liked how they felt on the road, the cleat was too fragile. The iClic2 supposedly fixed the issue with the fragile cleats and a few other issues with early production runs of the original iClic. I plan on trying them again since imo, it's a great design, it just needed a few tweaks. 

It's still cold here in the PNW, that means MTB shoes and spd style pedals. The commuter always has Candy pedals to use MTB shoes.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Camilo said:


> I use Time RXS having tried Dura Ace SPD SL. They're definitely different in the float "feel" and I happen to like it better.
> 
> By the way, I think's fairly common for very light men and women to have problems with SPD SL release.


I don't feel as bad about my general wimpyness then!  I have actually heard that as well I just wasn't sure if it was a common thing or if someone was just trying to make me feel better...



Ventruck said:


> imo just toughen up against SPD-SL, or stay with Look. There are times where I've had to walk for a mile or so to get home on SPD-SL cleats. I'm still on the same pair after a year.
> 
> i-Clics are mostly regarded for their float (for people who like float) with the clip-in being reasonably easy, but they've had like 3 cleat revisions because of reliability issues. I think the pedal itself had weak spots. Not sure how the i-Clic 2 in particular is doing though. The basic setup is $85 at Ribble Cycles atm for what could be a worthwhile risk in trying.
> 
> Another option is Mavic, which uses a Look-like design.I haven't heard much of them but my neighbor likes his setup.


I'm thinking I might just try the HTFU and get SPD-SL's, probably the Ultegra Carbon's, the Dura Ace are about $85 or $100 more for questionable gain in my eye's.

I wouldn't mind trying the iClic's however I would rather not lose money and I have used RealCyclist's return policy more than I care to mention when shopping for shoes+bibs that might fit my disproportionate frame


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

I've used SPD-SL, iClic, and iClic2 and here is my opinion.

SPD has less float, and this can both be good and bad.
Good is if you're looking to power sprint. Bad is when you're doing a century ride and you like to move your feet around at different angle a lot as to relief fatigue/pain etc.
I started out using SPD, but once I switch to iClic, I found that I do enjoy the newly found freedom to float a bit, so now I like float, especially on long ride.

As for clipping in, I find both system to be equally easy to use, with a positive feel.
However, if anything, the iClic tend to give more mis-engagement (because the spring shut too early), requiring me to unclip and clip back in. But I've also found a solution for the misengagement by wiggling my foot while pressing down into the pedal, so all is good.

As for disengagement, the iClic definitely disengages easier. Even on the lightest tension, the Shimano one does require a firm & positive effort to unclip. For the iClic, it's simply a twist of the foot and out, no thinking about it.

However, recently I bought the iClic2, the supposedly newer version of the iClic, and I notice that unclipping requires much more effort then the iClic, in fact, unclipping requires MORE effort than my old SPD-SL pedals! I'm not sure if this is because the pedals and cleats are still new and it just needs some break-in time?

As far as cleat wear between the iClic and iClic2, well.... I have no issue with the original iClic. I think heavier guys tend to break the support knobs of the iClic, so that was the main issue. If you're a lightweight, you aren't going to break them, so don't worry.

As far as construction, the iClic and iClic2 differ very little. The iClic2 has a metal plate on the pedal, where the shoe rests. This metal plate is supposed to make the pedal more durable. This may be important for a heavy rider with strong legs. As a lightweight, it's not important for me. I have not come close to chewing my iClic pedals, so apparently I stand no benefit with the metal plate. This is about the main difference. Other than this, the 2 pedals look the same. Note iClic cleats and iClic2 cleats are completely compatible with each other.

As far as "performance" goes, iClic and iClic2 perform (and feel) exactly the same to me once my feet are clipped in. Compared to SPD-SL, the iClic (and hence iClic2) system does feel a little difference. On long ride, I used to get hotspot with SPD (especially on cold weather when I get cold feet a lot, which exacerbates the problem), but since switching to iClic, I notice that I no longer get hotspot. But to be fair, I recently put my my SPD pedals, and this time, I felt no hotspots!! So I think my hotspot issue also has something to do with my cleats setup too. But perhaps the iClic system is easier to setup such that it's less prone to giving the rider hotspots?

Right now, on Competive Cyclist, you can get a pair of iClic (not iClic2) for $59, with money back guarantee (except for shipping cost). Since you're a lightweight, I think you should have no issue with cleat wear, so if you like to try out the iClic, go for it! And as a lightweight, I see no reason for you to get the iClic2. So get the iClic while sellers are clearing out their inventory.

One thing to keep in mind is cost. SPD-SL cleats are a little cheaper and are more widely available than iClic cleats. But nowadays, you can just get most things online. Also, because Shimano has more durable cleats, the cost of ownership of Shimano will ultimately be cheaper, especially if you are a big person who likes to walk around on his cleats a lot! (I had cleat cover when I had Shimano, but couldn't find cleat cover for iClic, boooo).

Weight wise, the iClic (even the cheap ones) are lighter than the Shimano ones except for the latest carbon SPD-SL pedals (carbon Shimano ain't cheap!).


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## MikeWMass (Oct 15, 2011)

I would go with the Time's. I have had RSX for 7 years, finally had to change cleats because clipping in the right foot was hard (I do 2500-3000 miles/year). Since I have them on 3 bikes, I should be good for another 14 years before I run out of cleats andhave to buy new ones.
I have not tried the IClics, but people I have spoken to say they feel about the same, just easier to clip in.
They are relatively light and inexpensive. They have good float. The RSX and IClic don't self center, I understand the IClic2's do (see recent review on the Velonews website)
You can't get cleat covers because you don't need them, the plastic frame protects the business end. Unless you take sightseeing hikes on your rides, shouldn't be a problem.
They are easy to set up, require no maintenance, and are tolerant of dirt in cleat (within reason, might be a problem in cyclocross!)


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

+1 on Time. Easy to clip in, easy to clip out, and the iClic2's seems to have solved any durability issues. Also you have lateral float as well as rotational (most other pedals don't), so it seems easiest of all on the knees (my left knee has gotten a tad bit wonky in recent years, so I'm grateful for anything that helps there).
.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Thanks for the awesome replies so far everyone. I guess after further thought it would be worth giving Time a shot. I already know how Shimano work and as a result, if the Time don't work out I can default back to Shimano and be content I feel knowing that I will just have to adjust to the clipping in/out force. 

aclinjury, thanks for your awesome write up there, really helpful to have that all laid out for me. I will see about picking up some iClic's however I might splurge on the iClic2's as I read they have done away with the miss-clips and they got a "best pedal award" in Cycling Plus/Bike Radar
Time I-Clic 2 Racer Red Pedals Review - BikeRadar
Best Road Bike Pedals - BikeRadar

I do tend to trust Cycling Plus reviews, I am a bit skeptical of others however that mag seems to do a pretty fair job.

Also, non to throw one more wrench in this, how does/do the Time RXS compare to the iclic's/iclic2? It looks like the iClic's have easier entry but other than that I'm not too sure, Time's site isn't overly helpful...


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

With SPD-SL pedals I unscrew the adjustment screw until I can no longer feel a detent, then turn it in one 'click'. That's the minimum setting. I can clip out ok when they're set that low, and I'm a skinny climber with weak ankles.


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## AlphaDogCycling (Sep 18, 2011)

+1 for Time -- I've been riding Time pedals almost uninterrupted since 1988. The interruption was a brief stint trying out the Look Keos -- I never could find the perfect cleat location to make them comfortable. So I'm back on Time iClics.


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> I've used SPD-SL, iClic, and iClic2 and here is my opinion.
> 
> SPD has less float, and this can both be good and bad.
> Good is if you're looking to power sprint. Bad is when you're doing a century ride and you like to move your feet around at different angle a lot as to relief fatigue/pain etc.
> ...




Finally, someone answered my question. I asked this on another thread and nobody responded.

Which iClic2 did you buy? I was looking at the Fibreflex one and the Racer. Too bad the Racer doesn't come in Black


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

B05 said:


> Finally, someone answered my question. I asked this on another thread and nobody responded.
> 
> Which iClic2 did you buy? I was looking at the Fibreflex one and the Racer. Too bad the Racer doesn't come in Black


I bought the carbon iClic2. But the main reason why I bought carbon (as opposed to fiberflex) is not because I wanted to save 20 grams, but because I was hell bent on getting red pedals!

I see there are some online deals for the carbon iClic2 for $159 shipped.

However, looking back, I should have bought the original iClic for $59 + shipping. Would have save almost $100.

I misengagement issue of the original iClic is still somewhat present on the iClic2, just to a much much less extent. I notice that all my misengagements (whether using iClic or iClic2) happens when I tried to "step into the mouse trap" with my cleat at an angle. Now you may ask, why do I step into the pedal at an angel, and why not step straight down into the pedal. Well that is because sometimes when I'm tired, legs are tired, and I'm rolling out on an incline, it is not always possible to have time to do a perfect perpendicular step-in. But like I said, ALL of the misengagements can be solved (and I really mean ALL) by wiggling your foot as you step down into the pedals. Done!

I am currently using both the iClic and iClic2 pedals on 2 bikes. So by now I pretty know all the idiosyncrasies of both systems, and the difference is not much once I've figured what I need to do with the misengement. That's why I'm saying, get the orginal iClic (fiberflex) version for $59 bux! If you broke the cleat of the iClic, then you can buy the newer iClic2 cleats, which is 100% compatible.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

ericm979 said:


> With SPD-SL pedals I unscrew the adjustment screw until I can no longer feel a detent, then turn it in one 'click'. That's the minimum setting. I can clip out ok when they're set that low, and I'm a skinny climber with weak ankles.


I've tried this, and I'm sure most people who have used SPD-SL have their pedals on the lowest possible tension. But SPD pedals do still require more disengagemen force.

Now over time, as SPD cleat wears down, you will get easier disengagement, and this will feel good for a period, until the cleat wears down further, at which point you get unwanted engagement, especially if you're power sprinting or pulling real hard.

The beauty of the iClic system is that you get to enjoy a longer period of easy disengagement AND you can also pull on it hard and power sprint on it without experiencing unwanted disengagement.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

I rode Time Equipe Pro pedals for years. I currently have the RSX model on one of my bikes. The cleats last a long time and are very easy to get in and out of. My other two bikes have Time ATAC mountian bike pedals. These are way better pedals than the Shimano mountian bike pedals. I've never tried Shimano road pedals.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

I also wanted to mention one more point.

Looking at the width of SPD-SL and iClic pedals, the SPD ones have a little wider width, which means that SPD pedals are over wider. This may or may not be important. For example, of you are the type of person that likes to pedal while in a turn where you're leaning the bike over (like me!), then pedal width may be important! I'm using 170mm crankarms and there is at least a couple times where I have drag the SPD pedals while pedaling with the bike leant over! Didn't crash (thank god), but it definitely gave me a momnent. So now I'm leary of this with SPD.

Now the iClic has a narrower width,but not only this, but the profile of the BOTTOM of the iClic is also shaped such that it allows for more clearance when the bike is leant over. So far, I've been able to pedal while leant over and NOT have the pedals scrap the ground yet. But to be fair, because of my experience with SPD, I'm now more "timid" while pedaling while leant over too. I think if I leant over hard enough, I can still make the iClic hit the gound, and the only way for me to feel safe is if I switch to 165mm crankarms.

But with the latest generation of SPD-SL (the carbon Ultegra & Dura Ace), Shimano has made the bottom of their pedals to be slimmer as to lessen the chances of scrapping the ground.

The other consideration with wider width is if you have biggg feet. I'm 5'7 and my feet are small, size 8. And I have no problem with either platforms, but I feel that the width of the iClic platform is "just perfect" for me, meaning with every push, my feet say "oh nice! nice! no hotspot. nice!". Get my point??? But I reckon that guys with size 10-13 feet may prefer SPD as it's got a wider platform? Unfortunately, foot/pedal interaction is such an individualize thing that only you can know after you have tried out the pedals. My input here is just limited to a small rider with smaller feet.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

pmf said:


> I rode Time Equipe Pro pedals for years. I currently have the RSX model on one of my bikes. The cleats last a long time and are very easy to get in and out of. My other two bikes have Time ATAC mountian bike pedals. These are way better pedals than the Shimano mountian bike pedals. I've never tried Shimano road pedals.


The shimana mountain bike pedals (often called SPD) is completely different from the shimano road pedals (SPD-SL). The SPD-SL system gives a really nice platform if you're a big guy looking to release all your anger while you power sprint.

Also, the Dura Ace series uses double ball bearings, making them one of longest lasting road pedals around. My circa 1993 Dura Ace (back then these pedals still look like today's mtb pedals!) is still good! One thing you can count on Shimano is quality and durability. They don't always have the lightest stuff. Fit is pretty indivualized. But what Shimano have is definitely quality and durability.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Alright well I went ahead and took advantage of Competitive Cyclists sale on the Time iClic's. I ordered the regular one's for $59 bucks plus I paid the extra $20 for 2 day shipping so I can have them before I leave on my spring brake cycling/triathlon training trip on Friday. I feel for $80 to have the pedals and get them in 2 days is a pretty good deal!

I will be sure to remember the wiggle trick, I actually used to do that with my Speedplay Zero's to help them engage easier/faster. Felt like if I moved the foot a bit side to side it just sort of "fell" into place and clipped in much smoother/faster/easier

I will keep everyone posted on how it goes, thanks for all the help aclinjury especially regarding the iClic vs. the iClic 2, it seems that there really isn't a huge difference especially for someone that is not super rough on their gear or heavy by any means.


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Good choice.

When you go to install the cleats, you will first notice that the 2 cleats look identical, making you think that either cleats can go on either shoe (left of right). This is not true. You will need to examine the cleats closer and look for the small black letter "Q" imprinted onto the bottom of each cleat. The Q is your indicator as to how your Q-factor (how close your feet are to the center of the bike) will be when the cleats are installed. 

Read the instructional paper, but if you do not understand the instructions (which I did not at first time I read it), let me just say it in layman's term for you now:

If you wish to have your feet as close to the middle (centerline) of the bike as possible when you pedal (as a small rider, I personally want this), then pick a cleat with the Q-label such that when you install this such cleat onto a LEFT shoe, then the Q-label will be on the LEFT side of the shoe when the shoe is clipped in the pedal as if you're riding your bike. The same with the RIGHT shoes, Q-label is on the RIGHT side of the shoe when shoe is clipped in. I find this narrow Q-factor setup is good for small rider with narrow hips.

If you wish to have your feet to be as far apart as possible from the centerline, then the LEFT shoe will have the Q-labe on the RIGHT side as you laid the shoe into the pedal. And RIGHT shoe will have the Q label on the LEFT side. This is in fact the opposite of the above setting. In most cases, you will NOT want to setup like this if you're small rider.

So pay attention to this Q label on the bottom of each cleats!


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## Golfguy (Nov 20, 2010)

I've got the original iClic Racers and haven't had any cleat durability issues, and I'm not a lightweight (~180 lbs.) I've used both Look Delta and Keo style pedals and I like the Time iClics the best. I think you're going to like your choice.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> Good choice.
> 
> When you go to install the cleats, you will first notice that the 2 cleats look identical, making you think that either cleats can go on either shoe (left of right). This is not true. You will need to examine the cleats closer and look for the small black letter "Q" imprinted onto the bottom of each cleat. The Q is your indicator as to how your Q-factor (how close your feet are to the center of the bike) will be when the cleats are installed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this tip regarding the cleat set up, I do tend to run my cleats either dead center on my shoes or a bit inward. I think I have a pretty middle of the road hip/pelvis with judging by the fact that most ~143mm saddles work well for me *Spec Toupe/Romin Evo and Fizik Antares* while those around ~130mm or ~150mm don't.

I'll keep everyone posted here regarding how they work out, should be getting them, along with my new shoes wednesday! For shoes I have a pair of Northwave Evolution SBS 41.5 coming in as a replacement for a the 42's that were too big.


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

any noticeable differences in the regular Iclics VS Racer version?

I wanna take advantage of the sale. Not too worried about the weights of both bec. it'll already be a significant weight savings from my 105 pedals, but I'd like to know what's the "big" difference between the two.


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## Golfguy (Nov 20, 2010)

The basic iClic has a "Fiberflex" fiberglass engagement blade and the Racer has a "Carboflex" carbon fiber blade. The basic is gray or black and the Racer is white. They're within 10 grams of one another, I think. I bought the Racers 'cause I liked the white ones, no other reason.


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## B05 (Jul 31, 2011)

thanks for ACL and Golfguy.

Just torn between getting the deal @ CC now or @ some other e-tailer for the 2s - who is unfortunately OOS ATM.

My final cost diff for both is only within $10 (I dont live in the US) and I'd rather get the 2s if that's the case.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Golfguy said:


> The basic iClic has a "Fiberflex" fiberglass engagement blade and the Racer has a "Carboflex" carbon fiber blade. The basic is gray or black and the Racer is white. They're within 10 grams of one another, I think. I bought the Racers 'cause I liked the white ones, no other reason.


I called TIME USA before placing my order and the rep on the phone basically said this same thing. He said weight and color, no other mechanical or other real differences. Quite simply just told me to go with the color that matched best because the weight difference was so minor and the carbon blade vs. fiberflex didn't seem to really have any tangible effect or difference.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

SolidSnake03 said:


> Oh no I have fallen a few times before, nothing major just a few slow-motion falls. Anyhow, this isn't really my main issue, my main problem is that I'm not liking the Look cleats in terms of feel and durability. This durability concern also follows over to the pedals themselves.
> 
> I can work on clipping in technique more however I was wondering if anyone had experience with Time and Shimano that could comment on clipping in with the iClic's? I have read about them a bit but still not sure how this translates to real world feel/use compared to the tried and true Shimano/Look design.


For the iClics hook the front and lightly step down. They will clip right in. Don't wiggle just step down lightly.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

bigbill said:


> I used Time iClic for a year and although I liked how they felt on the road, the cleat was too fragile. The iClic2 supposedly fixed the issue with the fragile cleats and a few other issues with early production runs of the original iClic. I plan on trying them again since imo, it's a great design, it just needed a few tweaks.
> 
> It's still cold here in the PNW, that means MTB shoes and spd style pedals. The commuter always has Candy pedals to use MTB shoes.


The iClic 2s are much more robust. The metal plate plus beefed up rear and bottom and cleats. Very noticeable.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

aclinjury said:


> I've used SPD-SL, iClic, and iClic2 and here is my opinion.
> 
> SPD has less float, and this can both be good and bad.
> Good is if you're looking to power sprint. Bad is when you're doing a century ride and you like to move your feet around at different angle a lot as to relief fatigue/pain etc.
> ...


I see no difference in clip out between the two versions of the iClic. In fact the metal plate allows smoother float and clip out. The 2s and their cleats are much more beefed up and I would not recommend the original iClics at all.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

aclinjury said:


> I also wanted to mention one more point.
> 
> Looking at the width of SPD-SL and iClic pedals, the SPD ones have a little wider width, which means that SPD pedals are over wider. This may or may not be important. For example, of you are the type of person that likes to pedal while in a turn where you're leaning the bike over (like me!), then pedal width may be important! I'm using 170mm crankarms and there is at least a couple times where I have drag the SPD pedals while pedaling with the bike leant over! Didn't crash (thank god), but it definitely gave me a momnent. So now I'm leary of this with SPD.
> 
> ...


I wear size 48 wide shoes and the iClic 2s are fine, I switched from Dura-Ace.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

B05 said:


> Finally, someone answered my question. I asked this on another thread and nobody responded.
> 
> Which iClic2 did you buy? I was looking at the Fibreflex one and the Racer. Too bad the Racer doesn't come in Black


 Did you do a search? I wrote a lengthy review of the iClic 2's.


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## Juzzy004 (Mar 8, 2012)

Go with Time - you won't look back.

I've been fitting the Time RXS Carbon pedals to my bikes for about 6-7 years now and wouldn't really look at changing. Cleating for me (I weigh 72kg's) is easy and I really like the float offered from these pedals.

If you've had a few issues cleating in and out then it sounds like you just need to get out on the bike more. Regular riding, especially with the RXS, should have you managing it in your sleep after a month or 2.

These pedals are durable, look good (black), and provide a well felt taylored adjustment, if necessary. They can be sourced online for a moderate price and have great longevity. I have a pair of Sidi Ergo3 shoes and these pedals marry well. I don't have them too tight, but have never found myself coming out on sprints or during decent ascents.

Go get yourself a pair - you'll be glad you did!


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Did you do a search? I posted some pretty detailed comments here;

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/co...-iclic-2-pedals-yet-271836-2.html#post3757913



SolidSnake03 said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm looking for a bit of advice here regarding Time pedals compared to Shimano. In the past I have ridden Shimano 105's, DuraAce Carbon, Speedplay Zero's and now Look Keo Blades trying to find the "perfect" pedal system for me. All of these had their problems:
> 
> ...


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

darwinosx said:


> Did you do a search? I posted some pretty detailed comments here;
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/co...-iclic-2-pedals-yet-271836-2.html#post3757913


I did do a search and read you review prior to making this thread however I wanted more than a single person's review/impressions. In the original thread there were plenty of others talking about the pedal's but you seemed to be the only one that actually compared them to Shimano's used in the past. Also, some of my specific questions regarding force of clipping out *vs. Shimano* and if I should just suck it up and ride SPD-SL were not answered fully in the other thread. I see that someone just *in the last day* posted about release tension and clipping in/out vs. Shimano 105's however that is well after I made this thread.

I think the $59 iClic's was a pretty good deal compared to $150 for the iClic2's. I figure I will try them out for a bit, see what I think and then if I have any durability concerns or have trouble with miss clips consider taking advantage of Competitive Cyclists 60-day return and going with the iClic2's instead assuming I like the design/functioning of the iClic's.

Again thanks for the help and input everyone, my pedals and new shoes (Northwave Evolution SBS 41.5 Black) will be showing up this afternoon. Can't wait!


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Ok well I tried out the iClic's and so far not too bad!

I have experienced a bit of the miss-clip however I can tell/feel it right away and then just pop in and out to correct it. Not to big of an issue so far but we will see how this holds up.

The cleats are much easier to walk in than Look Keo's and I already like them quite a bit better in this regard. In addition it seems easier to set the cleats up and my foot feels more stable with the larger cleat area. 

They feel fine when clipped in although I'm not used to the float feeling, will need more time and riding to see how I really feel about that.

So far for $59 not a bad deal at all, I'll try them for a bit yet and see if I decide to return to Shimano or stick with Time


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

The new cleats tend to not have false clip ins because they are stiffer. The old cleats bend too easily when clipping in causing misclips. I had this issue all the time with the old iClics which is one of the reasons I dumped them but I haven't had a single misclip with the new ones.

Here's a good article on the iClics and the origins of Time pedals from the guy who also came up with the Look pedal then created the Time pedals.

Time iCLIC Pedals | TriSports University


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

SolidSnake03 said:


> Ok well I tried out the iClic's and so far not too bad!
> 
> I have experienced a bit of the miss-clip however I can tell/feel it right away and then just pop in and out to correct it. Not to big of an issue so far but we will see how this holds up.
> 
> ...


With time and practice, your feet will just automatically learn how to step in without misclip. I used to miclip a lot, every 3-4 clips was a 1 miclip. Now, I only miclip 1 out of every 8-10 times, which is comparable to other pedal systems. With Shimano, I rarely miclip. However, the real difference between iClick and Shimano is not how the pedals click, but the float. You need to do a long ride (60-100 miles) to appreciate the float in the iClic. And if you climb a lot and climb out of the saddle alot (think 60-80 mile ride with 7000-10000ft climb), then you will even appreciate the float even more! But if all you do is mostly flat riding, under 50 mile, then both pedal systems feel the same. If you like to sprint, crit race, basically short ride (under 1 hr) with lots of moments of sprinting, then in my opinion nothing beats Shimano. I still keep my Shimano pedals for short rides with sprinting intervals or a short spirited ride with the "crit crowds". The reason is when sprinting, I like my pedals to have almost zero float, and I like the pedal to feel solid, no angular movement whatsoever, and in this scenario, Shimano is better than the iClic.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Thanks for the article and addition insight/info. The article did make quite a few very good points and brings up a few reasons I am switching away from Look.

I can already feel when I'm not clipped in properly, I just need to pop out and redo it, so far not a big issue and I'm liking the feel of the pedals aside from that. The cleat really does feel much more stable/substantial underfoot as compared to Look and Speedplay. Neither of those cleats ever felt like they were "fitting well" to my foot in regards to where and how I was pushing down. 

I will be doing a bunch of riding the next few days so I will keep this update with further thoughts and what not. 

Also, I plan to pick up a pair of Shimano pedals, probably the Ultegra Carbon's since they are much cheaper than the Dura Ace one's and I never had the "foot slip off the front of the pedal" with the carbon pedals opposed to the slippery metal one's *105's/Ultegra's* I plan to own both at the same time and swap between them over a few weeks and really see what I think. Will be the fairest way to determine which I like best based upon my style of riding.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I had the original Looks in 1984 or so and remember the details about how Time got started. But not everyone is old like that...;-)
You can find the Shimano pedals cheap on eBay. I love the Shimano pedals, built like tanks, wide although the Times are actually close in width. But even with the float cleats and multiple adjustments I could never get the cleats quite right. Time pedals just work for me and my trashed knees and the iClic 2's are really a nice update over the originals.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

darwinosx said:


> I had the original Looks in 1984 or so and remember the details about how Time got started. But not everyone is old like that...;-)
> You can find the Shimano pedals cheap on eBay. I love the Shimano pedals, built like tanks, wide although the Times are actually close in width. But even with the float cleats and multiple adjustments I could never get the cleats quite right. Time pedals just work for me and my trashed knees and the iClic 2's are really a nice update over the originals.


I'm a bit too young to remember the original Looks 

I will be picking up the Shimano Ultegra Carbon's on ebay, looks like you can get a brand new set in the box for $150 which is about the price of the iClic2's.

I figure I will own both at once and if for example I just can't get comfortable on the Shimano's than the choice will be made for me. I don't really have a personal preference either way, I'm not "loyal" to any company or think one is cooler than the other or something. I will just ride for a while and see what happens


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

*update*

2 days of some longer riding *2.5hrs and 4hrs* have no bode well for the Time's. I had 1 accidental pull out and a few miss-clips throughout the rides. The 1 accidental release thankfully was just when I was pedaling on a flat stretch so my foot just flew forward and I was able to keep the bike in control.

Also, my knee's have never felt *worse*. I adjusted the cleats and saddle height multiple times during shorter riders until it felt comfortable but that seems to be incorrect. Shimano, Look and Speedplay never made my knee's sore/hurt like this and when I rode those pedals I have distinctly less knowledge about setting up cleats and proper placement. Also, missing the secure feeling of Shimano/Look where you knew you were in and locked down. The Time's 2 types of float are making me feel a bit uncomfortable/unsecure.

I will be ordering the Shimano Ultegra Carbon's soon and giving those a shot but so far the Time are not working out well


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## aclinjury (Sep 12, 2011)

Hmm I have a hard time imagining how you could have an accidental pull-out! You're a lightweight, and you probably don't produce the kind of power that would require to just pull your foot out like that. I think what happen is that you did not clip in correctly (that is, your foot was only half clipped in), and you kept on pedalling (on the flat) without realizing this, until you pull a little harder and then the foot popped out. That's another thing with these iClics. If you are only half clipped in, you might not noticed it and think that you're fully clipped in. I've sprinted with these pedals and I have never pull my feet out of them. And also the fact that you said you've had a few misclips, also supports my theory that you were not clipped in fully when the accidental pullout happend.

As for your knees feeling worse, it's most likely a pedal setup issue, or simply you were over worked. Now if you tell me that your knees hurt IN ADDITION to your FEET feeling horrible, then in this case I think it's the pedals.

As for feeling "uncomfortable/unsecure", I'm not sure what to say here. However, I've seen plenty of bigger guys than you, probably producing more power than you, having no issue with pulling/pushing on these pedals. It's a little hard to be objective about "feeling". But I can see that if you're not used to the float in these pedals, then you might see that as "feeling unsecure".

Adjust the cleats, try them for a few more times. If things don't work out, return them.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

aclinjury said:


> Hmm I have a hard time imagining how you could have an accidental pull-out! You're a lightweight, and you probably don't produce the kind of power that would require to just pull your foot out like that. I think what happen is that you did not clip in correctly (that is, your foot was only half clipped in), and you kept on pedalling (on the flat) without realizing this, until you pull a little harder and then the foot popped out. That's another thing with these iClics. If you are only half clipped in, you might not noticed it and think that you're fully clipped in. I've sprinted with these pedals and I have never pull my feet out of them. And also the fact that you said you've had a few misclips, also supports my theory that you were not clipped in fully when the accidental pullout happend.
> 
> As for your knees feeling worse, it's most likely a pedal setup issue, or simply you were over worked. Now if you tell me that your knees hurt IN ADDITION to your FEET feeling horrible, then in this case I think it's the pedals.
> 
> ...


I agree with what you said regarding the miss-clip/pull out. I think I was half only clipped in and then when I put down a bit more power the foot popped free. Regardless this was a bit unnerving and has never happened with Speedplay/Shimano/Look

It is mostly my knee's that hurt however my feet also don't feel exactly peachy either. My feet have in the past, felt significantly better. Also, I have NEVER had knee pain like this before even when I was putting in equal mileage and running while preparing for a triathlon. If anything the combo of higher mileage cycling and runner should have caused more pain than what I'm currently experiencing. 

The instability/lack of confidence feeling is something that may be completely personal. I have always felt more solid and secure in myself in Shimano/Look pedals as opposed to Speedplay's. Even with the Speedplay's however, I knew/could feel that my foot was still securely locked in.

I'm not immediately going to dump on the pedals however the initial experiments haven't been good. 

On the upside, I do like how easy it is to clip out and how walk-able the cleats are.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

*sorry was supposed to be edit*

After a few more rides and days of riding I'm ditching the iClic. My Shimano Ultegra Carbon pedals just arrived in the mail yesterday and two says of riding in a row on them has convinced me to stick with them. I was able to turn down the tension even a few clicks lower than when the silver line indicated the lowest of the 3 settings. At this point I can clip out pretty easily.

The Shimano's are:
-Slightly harder to clip into/out of but still do-able
-hang perfectly every time
-best cleats around, super durable and stable
-when pedaling the platform feels wider and more solid than anything I have ever felt
-WINNER!



I'm a happy man and someone on ebay just scored a slightly used set of iClic's at a fair price


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

Glad you found what worked for you. I like the Shimano pedals a lot but they just don't work for my knees like Time pedals.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

Oh I totally understand that. I am really liking the "solid" feel of the Shimano's. I feel like my leg/knee/foot are tracking in a nice straight line. I know it's hard to describe the feeling but it just seems to be tracking/moving well. Very happy so far!

Now to work on my saddle >_<


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

The sold "thwack!" when you clip in Shimano's is really nice plus the wide platform and they are so well made. Built like a tank.


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## SolidSnake03 (Jun 22, 2011)

darwinosx said:


> The sold "thwack!" when you clip in Shimano's is really nice plus the wide platform and they are so well made. Built like a tank.


Yup, I'm really digging the thwack sound, Shimano's say, "YOUR CLIPPED IN!" it's loud and clear, there is no middle ground or question. Either you are in or out, there is no "maybe"

Also, these are the first carbon pedals *Ultegra Carbon's* that I don't have any durability concerns with, I just feel completely sure about their construction. They feel/appear substantially more solid than the Look Keo Blades I used to have and the Keo 2 Max Carbon's.


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## darwinosx (Oct 12, 2010)

I tried the Blades. Lots of things to like about them but they look like ass in short order. Plus the cleats are especially quick to wear.


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