# Building my first bike...step by step.



## dspiel

Hello everyone,

So I've decided to get a road bike but instead of just buying one and jumping on it I decided that I would build it from the ground up. While I understand it is quite a bit more expensive to do, I am the type of person who likes to understand how things work. Even as a kid my brand new toys would be taken apart so I could see how they worked. 

Up until 2 weeks ago, I was 100% clueless on bikes and through hours of research on this site and the web I am happy to say I am now only 95% clueless. I haven't ridden bikes frequently since I was a young boy so this is all foreign territory for me. This bike will be used for getting me back in shape.

I happen to be very lucky because I live in Santa Monica,CA and there is so many great bike shops to work with as well as great places to ride. In fact, I live on San Vicente Blvd which is swarming with cyclists on the weekend.

Anyways, I figured I'd make this thread to document my bike build and perhaps get opinions from you guys as I go along as well as use this to help other newbies who are treading down the same path.


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## bikerjulio

Congratulations. We all started with a first build.

As far as reading - personally it was Zinn's book. Online the Park tools site and videos are very useful.

And we need pictures!


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## wilier

Having built and maintained my own bikes for years, I generally make the practice of "not letting anyone else touch my bikes." However, there are a few things I never do myself. 



To mount a headset correctly and perfectly, it takes a tool that is just not worth buying IMO. Let a bike shop do that.
I don't cut my own carbon fiber. If your fork steerer tube and seatpost need cutting, let a bike shop do that. (there will be varying opinions on this, but my opinion is that if I mess up the fork, install it and it fails on a descent, I'm dead.)
Bottom brackets are a critical link in performance and safety. If you do that yourself, do it with a friend who is experienced, or let the LBS do it.

Last thing: buy a torque wrench and torque all bolts to spec.


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## cxwrench

wilier said:


> Having built and maintained my own bikes for years, I generally make the practice of "not letting anyone else touch my bikes." However, there are a few things I never do myself.
> 
> 
> 
> To mount a headset correctly and perfectly, it takes a tool that is just not worth buying IMO. Let a bike shop do that.
> I don't cut my own carbon fiber. If your fork steerer tube and seatpost need cutting, let a bike shop do that. (there will be varying opinions on this, but my opinion is that if I mess up the fork, install it and it fails on a descent, I'm dead.)
> Bottom brackets are a critical link in performance and safety. If you do that yourself, do it with a friend who is experienced, or let the LBS do it.
> 
> Last thing: buy a torque wrench and torque all bolts to spec.



cutting a carbon fork is no more difficult or dangerous than mounting and adjusting your own brakes. the only real worry is messing up your measurement and cutting it too short. mechanic expanders are nothing more than nuts and bolts. headset adjustments are as easy as setting up derailleurs, if not easier. follow the proper steps like you would doing anything else...easy.


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## dspiel

I decided to buy the frame set all together instead of piecing together a frame, fork, and headset. Mainly out of my lack of knowledge and I had peace of mind it would fit properly. I wanted to get a quality brand frame hopefully in carbon for around $800 or less. I ended up buying a 2009 Scott Addict R3 carbon frame with carbon Scott fork and Ritchey WCS carbon headset. The seller is a member on this forum has been extremely helpful in providing advice, kudos to him for the great deal on a new frame.


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## dspiel

I should mention that I am 6'0" with a 29" inseam which means I can fit in 56cm and probably some 58cm frames. If you are not sure what size you need your best bet would be to go to a bike shop and try out a few.


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## dspiel

Now that I have the frame I spent hours trying to figure out what size stem and drop down handlebar configuration to go with. The problem with picking out what sizes I would need has a lot to do with my measurements as well as personal preference. Since I have no personal preference just yet I decided I would go with a basic budget setup until I have a better idea of what I want. I don't see the point of spending the money unless I know what I want and why.

I was looking at handlebars on ebay when I found someone selling a seat, stem, and handlebars that come with the 2011 Scott CR1 and from looking at the pictures of the various models these seem to come off the CR1 Elite. I picked these up for $75 shipped but I will be replacing them in the future.










The bar is a 44 which is standard for a 56cm sized bike however my shoulders measure more 50cm across so I am guessing I will need a 46.

$$$ spent so far: $875


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## dspiel

The last thing I've bought so far is a 2012 SRAM Red Black Front Braze on Derailleur. I was advised that instead of buying all the gearset pieces together, that If I was patient I could find good deals on the parts individually. I picked this up for $97.50 shipped. I will be mixing and matching SRAM Red and SRAM Force parts for this bike. They are nice looking pieces and the reviews are generally very positive. 










$$$ spent so far: $972.50


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## brucew

My first roadie was a beat-up fixer-upper. I had to disassemble the whole thing, throw out most of the components, and rebuild it. It was the most satisfying thing I'd done in ages. As a result, on the first pedal stroke, I already knew that bike like the back of my hand.

My fourth bike I bought as a frameset. For its first build, I borrowed components from another bike. After I could afford it, I bought all new components, returned the borrowed ones to their original frame, and built up the newer frame again, with the new components. 

I have an entirely different relationship with the bikes I've built up than with the bikes I bought pre-built. I'll admit that it was nice to just plunk down money and ride away, but somehow it felt less satisfying.

Best of luck to you on your first build.


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## PJ352

dspiel said:


> I should mention that I am 6'0" with a 29" inseam which means I can fit in 56cm and probably some 58cm frames.* If you are not sure what size you need your best bet would be to go to a bike shop and try out a few*.


Hopefully you were upfront with them and didn't just use their time and inventory.

Beyond that, unless you understand that brand A's frame in a given size doesn't always measure the same as brand B's, you could mislead yourself on sizing requirements.


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## dspiel

I never said that's what I did but maybe I should mention if you do that you should probably give your money to that shop in some way or form.


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## cxwrench

hope that Red front derailleur works for you...generally they're 'good' at best, especially if you're using a compact crank. the Ti cage is somewhat flexy, so a derailleur w/ a stiffer cage like a steel cage Red (hmmmm...wonder why they made one like that?) or Force/Rival is usually a better performing part. but the one you bought does look nice.


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## dspiel

thanks cxwrench, this is a trial and error build so and the front derailleur is a relatively cheap part to replace so hopefully it works well for me.


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## PJ352

dspiel said:


> *I never said that's what I did* but maybe I should mention if you do that you should probably give your money to that shop in some way or form.


You just did.


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## dspiel

I'm confused at what you are trying to say..are you accusing me?


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## cxwrench

dspiel said:


> thanks cxwrench, this is a trial and error build so and the front derailleur is a relatively cheap part to replace so hopefully it works well for me.


just be careful when you adjust the front derailleur. the mount on the frame is bonded carbon, so don't go nuts moving the derailleur around and make sure it's tightened properly so the derailleur won't move by accident.


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## mac4095

Looking forward to seeing your finished bike.


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## dspiel

Today I ordered a SRAM Force Crankset w/GXP BB - 175 39/53. Seemed like the best bang for the buck. I got it for $197 shipped, it was brand new pulled from a new bike.


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## dspiel

Ordered a 2012 SRAM PG-1070 Cassette for $67 shipped











$$$ so far is $1236.50


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## dspiel

Also ordered some 2011 SRAM Red Brakes with some Swiss Stop pads for $211.70











Total cost $1448.20


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## dspiel

I forgot to mention I got the 11-25 cassette


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## JVSVA

I have bike envy!! but seriously, congrats on starting the build. 
Looks like it'll be a beauty once you are done.


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## dspiel

Sorry for the lack of updates!

Ordered a new SRAM PC1091 10speed chain for 42.02 shipped










Also ordered a new 2012 Mavric Ksyrium Elite wheelset for $535 shipped. 
Since I am such a big guy I was concerned about getting a wheelset that I wouldn't need to worry about weight.













Total spent: $2025.22


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n

Gives you the fuzzy feeling doesn't it?


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## dspiel

Bought some 2011 LOOK iClic racer pedals on sale from competitivecyclist.com for $75 shipped.
I looked at several mechanisms (spd-sl, speedplay, iclic, and keo blade) and decided that the iclic seemed the ideal setup on a smaller budget. It didnt hurt that they look pretty cool and match my bike.











Also picked up some black gloss fizik handlebar tape for $15. White seems like it is too much maintenance to keep clean.













Total spent $2115.22


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## tihsepa

Nice, lets see some pics of it together. Seems you are almost there.


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## RB Mike

Love this thread! Look forward to tracking your progress.

btw, please tell me you live in the southern hemisphere...or have another bike! I'd hate to think that you're missing out on some awesome spring rides while you build this bike.


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## dspiel

i live in Santa Monica, CA so while I am missing out on riding right now, there isn't much winter season to worry about after the summer.


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## smisa27

Wow, that looks like fun! I would love to do that sometime. I just started biking, and currently am just borrowing my dad's bike. When I get enough money and decide what type of bike to purchase, I am definitely going all out. Good luck!


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## tdietz87

I'm living vicariously through this thread, keep it up! :thumbsup:


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## cxwrench

i have those exact same pedals. i've been using shimano for last few years after using time for many years. the new i-clic pedals are very easy to get into, and smooth on the release. i like 'em a lot!


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## dspiel

I've only used SPD pedals before so this will be a new experience for me.


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## charlox5

the GXP team bottom bracket that you got with your crankset will probably disappoint you when the bearings start to die relatively early. replace it with the ceramic bearing GXP, or get a chris king BB. granted, the GXP team is cheap enough to go through 3 or 4 before you break even on the ceramic bearing or the CK--but my GXP team BB lasted all of 500 miles before it started to give up the ghost. 

i have the same gloss black fizik bar tape and i like it alot.


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## dspiel

thanks for the heads up, what happens to your pedal stroke as it starts to give out? will it be easy to notice?


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## charlox5

dspiel said:


> thanks for the heads up, what happens to your pedal stroke as it starts to give out? will it be easy to notice?


it'll start to squeak and you'll feel some play in the rotation of the crank. you'll hear it first, before the play in the BB gets bad enough to really effect your pedaling.


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## dspiel

ok well when that time arrives ill go with a chris king =)


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## Naixed

what was the grand total for the parts needed to assemble a complete bike? I tried piecing together the entire ultegra drive train, but there are to many things I am unsure of ie braze on, number of cassettes, etc


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## cxwrench

charlox5 said:


> the GXP team bottom bracket that you got with your crankset will probably disappoint you when the bearings start to die relatively early. replace it with the ceramic bearing GXP, or get a chris king BB. granted, the GXP team is cheap enough to go through 3 or 4 before you break even on the ceramic bearing or the CK--but my GXP team BB lasted all of 500 miles before it started to give up the ghost.
> 
> i have the same gloss black fizik bar tape and i like it alot.


the ceramic bearing GXP BB will wear out faster than the normal one given the same conditions. every time. guaranteed. 
biggest.
waste.
of.
$$$
ever.
your bb lasting only 500mi is pretty odd. while they're not the most durable things out there, that is just barely broken in...something is definitely not right w/ your story, and it's not just the bb bearings. 
i'll second the advice on the CK bb...if you want something that is high quality and very durable they can't be beat.


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## dspiel

Naixed said:


> what was the grand total for the parts needed to assemble a complete bike? I tried piecing together the entire ultegra drive train, but there are to many things I am unsure of ie braze on, number of cassettes, etc


I'm guessing the grand total of parts would be around 3k which considering i am using mainly red components is a pretty good price considering i didnt buy them all at once. I got the frame for a heck of a deal so I am pretty happy with the money invested.


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## tipstall

This is fun, can't wait to see it finished.


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## dspiel

Ordered a Ritchey WCS Seatpost 31.6mm x 400mm with 25mm offset.

I figured since the addict comes with a 25mm offset seatpost, this would be a good starting point for me to work with. I picked a relatively cheap aluminum seatpost so that if i need to replace in the future, my initial investment would be minimal. I looked into Ritchey's adjustable seatpost as well but decided against it since there seems to be a lot of issues with it. I paid $64.99












Total spent $2180.21


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## dspiel

Ordered a new 2012 SRAM Red Black Edition Rear Derailleur for $217 shipped











Total spent $2397.21


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## Trower

That is going to be a really classy ride:thumbsup:


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## dspiel

Been really busy and haven't had time to think about my bike until recently. Ended up buying some SRAM Red Shifters from 2010 for 328.22 shipped.

Total spent $2353.44

pretty much done just need cables, tires, tubes, and cages.


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## Lanna

Impressive! Part of me would like to gather the knowledge to build my own bike one day. It has to be a labor of love for you.

Thanks for sharing your building process. Can't wait to see your bike all put together.


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## Firefly911

I can't wait to see your final product as well!


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## skhan007

Loving this thread so far and looking foward to seeing all this stuff come together!


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## dspiel

Forgot to post a pic of the shifters so here:


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## dspiel

Things I ordered today trying to get everything ready so it can be finally put together:

2 x Michelin AirComp Ultra-Light Road Bicycle Tubes 700x18/23 with Presta 52mm valves paid $17.95 shipped










2 x Michelin Pro 4 Endurance Tires 700x23c Black paid $98.49 shipped










I was debating between the Michelin Pro4 Service Course vs. Endurance and decided to go with the Endurance for better flat protection. As I get stronger I will upgrade to something else. The reason I went with the Michelin over the Continental or another brand is purely for bias reasons. My Nissan 350z has a tire sponsorship with BFGoodrich which is a division of Michelin. 

K-Edge Braze-On Chain Catcher in White, I paid $31.95 shipped










Yokozuna Reaction White Cable System Kit for Shifters/Brakes $53.95 shipped










I decided with the Yokozuna over the gore-on/sram stuff basically because most of the reviews I found had positive things to say about them. It helps that they are cheaper as well.

Total spent so far $2555.78

Things left, cage(s), bottle(s), also going to get a new helmet and shoes but thats won't be included in the build cost. Anything else I'm missing?


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n

Some anti-sieze paste and fibre grip?

Cable adjusters? ... 
View attachment 260462

You can get away with not using on for the rear derailleur, as there is an adjuster, but the front, it can be tricky to get the setting right without one, but still possible ...

Headset spacer?

Frame protector? but then that is just me ... a bit OCD ...


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## dspiel

The anti-sieze and fiber grip stuff I have already. I am looking at the sram cable adjusters as well. I will probably get a 10mm or 20mm spacer for the head.


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## josmo

ever get it all together/have any pics!?


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n

Don't cut the steerer yet until you are comfortable with the right stem height ... I actually leave 30mm below the stem and about 2-5mm on top. Or leave the maximum that you can have below the stem as per steerer manufacturer recommendations, that way your stem can only go lower and not above ...

And if you find that your stem is still too low ... then that is another problem altogether ...


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## skhan007

josmo said:


> ever get it all together/have any pics!?


+1
How long before final pics??!!? Can't wait to see the build!


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## Wadl

I am going to start build up my new frame too this weekend but I never used anti-seize paste and fibre grip... why would someone need that when building a bike ?



c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n said:


> Some anti-sieze paste and fibre grip?
> 
> Cable adjusters? ...
> View attachment 260462
> 
> You can get away with not using on for the rear derailleur, as there is an adjuster, but the front, it can be tricky to get the setting right without one, but still possible ...
> 
> Headset spacer?
> 
> Frame protector? but then that is just me ... a bit OCD ...


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## dspiel

Pics soon once its finished.


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n

Take some and post them whilst the build is still half way through ... :arf:


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## dspiel

Ordered 2 x Topeak Shuttle Cages in Carbon (20gr each) for $100 shipped


















I also decided to get some sram white cork bar tape, undecided which i will use.










And not build related but I picked up a 2012 Giro Atmos Helmet in Black Titanium










and some Giro Apeckx Shoes


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## dspiel

I must really like carbon fiber because I got this today for my car.


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## dspiel

I ended up having cynergy cycle assemble the bike for me due to my lack of time to do it myself and my need to want to get on my bike and start riding. I snapped some blurry bike porn shots, i'll take some better pictures later. I am running 40mm worth of spacers until I figure out what ride height I want. Also my seatpost is way too high so I will adjust that this weekend.


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## dspiel

Forgot to mention the bike came in at 16.6lbs which is pretty good considering I am using a heavy saddle/stem/handlebar/wheels/seatpost. I think I can get it at 15 or below when I am done.


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## dspiel




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## dspiel

Longest ride so far I've done has been a 50 miler and I've learned a few things about my build. 

1) The cheap saddle I bought from a CR1 is a piece of crap. I just replaced it with a Selle Italia Men Gel Flow.





























2) My 53/39 crankset + 11/25 cassette make it extremely difficult for me to climb hills. I am going to replace the 53/39 with a 50/34 crankset. Do I need to change my 11/25 cassette as well?

3) I am having a lot of trouble with hand positioning and I am usually in a lot of pain on longer rides. Any suggestions? I am constantly moving them around trying to find something that is comfortable that is isnt causing pain. I understand that I am putting too much pressure on them but even when I am focusing on keeping my elbows bent I am still in pain.


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## charlox5

dspiel said:


> 2) My 53/39 crankset + 11/25 cassette make it extremely difficult for me to climb hills. I am going to replace the 53/39 with a 50/34 crankset. Do I need to change my 11/25 cassette as well?
> 
> 3) I am having a lot of trouble with hand positioning and I am usually in a lot of pain on longer rides. Any suggestions? I am constantly moving them around trying to find something that is comfortable that is isnt causing pain. I understand that I am putting too much pressure on them but even when I am focusing on keeping my elbows bent I am still in pain.


i'm not a great climber, but i hold my own with a compact + 11/25 on some pretty intense climbs. hell i climbed GMR on my 22 lb steel bike a couple weeks ago with a compact + 11/25. if in doubt you won't lose much by going with a 11/28 or a 12/27. 

how's your core strength? also, sounds like you need to get a fitting done. subtle changes in saddle height, stem length, stem height, saddle positioning, crank length, etc make huge differences in overall comfort. a 5 mm adjustment on your saddle height can make all the difference in the world.


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## dspiel

charlox5 said:


> i'm not a great climber, but i hold my own with a compact + 11/25 on some pretty intense climbs. hell i climbed GMR on my 22 lb steel bike a couple weeks ago with a compact + 11/25. if in doubt you won't lose much by going with a 11/28 or a 12/27.
> 
> how's your core strength? also, sounds like you need to get a fitting done. subtle changes in saddle height, stem length, stem height, saddle positioning, crank length, etc make huge differences in overall comfort. a 5 mm adjustment on your saddle height can make all the difference in the world.


I have had a fitting done with Nate Loyal and it has made a huge difference. I wanted to get a few things on the bike before I go back to him for adjustments. I don't know how to answer your question regarding core strength but among my small group of friends who ride I seem to be able to sprint the fastest but first to gas on any type of climbing.


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## charlox5

dspiel said:


> I have had a fitting done with Nate Loyal and it has made a huge difference. I wanted to get a few things on the bike before I go back to him for adjustments. I don't know how to answer your question regarding core strength but among my small group of friends who ride I seem to be able to sprint the fastest but first to gas on any type of climbing.


well improving core strength and flexibility can reduce hand pain. pushups and situps are good simple exercises to start with, more seat time will also help you get more comfortable. by improving core strength and flexibility, you put less pressure on your hands. get the adjustment done and let him know about your hand pain, he might have some constructive ideas. 

in terms of getting gassed on climbs, a bigger cassette should help you spin through climbs (instead of mashing through em) and make it easier to pace yourself.


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## PJ352

dspiel said:


> Longest ride so far I've done has been a 50 miler and I've learned a few things about my build.
> 
> 1) The cheap saddle I bought from a CR1 is a piece of crap. I just replaced it with a Selle Italia Men Gel Flow.
> 
> 2) My 53/39 crankset + 11/25 cassette make it extremely difficult for me to climb hills. I am going to replace the 53/39 with a 50/34 crankset. Do I need to change my 11/25 cassette as well?
> 
> 3) I am having a lot of trouble with hand positioning and I am usually in a lot of pain on longer rides. Any suggestions? I am constantly moving them around trying to find something that is comfortable that is isnt causing pain. I understand that I am putting too much pressure on them but even when I am focusing on keeping my elbows bent I am still in pain.


Starting with your hand discomfort; it could be fit related, could be form related, could be a little of both - and/ or you're doing a little too much, a little too fast during acclimation to road riding. 

A common *fit* related cause would be excessive frontal weight, so whether or not the saddle was replaced after the fitting, you'll need to go back and have saddle adjustments redone - primarily saddle fore/ aft positioning. In situations like this, I'd position a rider slightly behind KOPS, moving rider weight slightly rearward. 

No matter how good fit is, as we fatigue power output declines and form can degrade, causing these types of fit issues.

Some things to be are of: 
- keep your upper torso relaxed, arms slightly bent
- _change hand position frequently_ (tops, bends, hoods, drops...)
- keep a slightly loose grip on the bars (avoid the 'death grip')
- keep forearms and hands aligned (don't twist at the wrist - refer to pic below)
- consider good quality gel gloves
- I usually recommend good quality bar tape, but your bike being new, it should already be installed. 
View attachment 267901


I'd also suggest reviewing the three links below, because developing core strength _along with_ developing a smooth pedal stroke will both help you maintain good form and build endurance - helping with hill climbs. I've included a link on that as well.

Coinciding with smoothing the pedal stroke, if you don't already have one, I suggest a computer with cadence.

Re: gearing, going with a 28T cassette (likely the largest your drivetrain will support) gets you a 12% change over your current 25T cog. Going with a compact crankset (with a 34T inner ring) provides about a 15% change from your current 39T inner ring. 

I think I'd weigh the cost versus percent change and decide from there, but I suspect that going with a 12-28 cassette (or similar) would be cheaper than a crankset swap.

Some links you may find useful:
Core exercises:
The Best Core Exercises and Core Workouts

Climbing techniques:
CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -

Pedaling technique:
VIDEO: Pedaling Technique


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## tamato

Wow, great bike, and fun watching your build progress, thanks!


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## STLBILLY

Can we get pics of the spoiler on the car as well.


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## dspiel

STLBILLY said:


> Can we get pics of the spoiler on the car as well.


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## STLBILLY

Well now I need one of the side of the car.


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## dspiel

some older pics


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## charlox5

nice!

not a 350 fan myself, but that is a well put together car. 

love the wheels.


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