# Completely new rider - torn b/w 2 bikes



## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Hello, I'm a new rider trying to purchase my first bike but I'm torn b/w 2 bikes that my local bike store recommended for me (they were very helpful). Could anyone give me some input on what they think about the two bikes please?

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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

I am sure both are solid entry level bikes. Ride them and select the one that fits you best. Ask the shop to look at how you fit on the bike, and if neither bike really fits well, keep looking


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

As a new rider, I'd go C'dale... cross bikes are more versatile and c'dale has a reputation for quality aluminum. It's all personal preference though, I wouldn't think twice about taking the c'dale over the trek (in this case).


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks for your reply! It's good to know that both are solid (as a newcomer, I don't really know what to expect because I'm not familiar with parts - only visual).

headloss, would it make sense if I put some road tires on the c'dale bike? Will I see a difference on the road (as a new rider, unlikely right?)? WHAT IF my plan is to ride 90% on road - would you still go for c'dale?


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

dj2kim said:


> Thanks for your reply! It's good to know that both are solid (as a newcomer, I don't really know what to expect because I'm not familiar with parts - only visual).
> 
> headloss, would it make sense if I put some road tires on the c'dale bike? Will I see a difference on the road (as a new rider, unlikely right?)? WHAT IF my plan is to ride 90% on road - would you still go for c'dale?


In either case, I'd change out the tires...

You'll find that running 28mm to 32mm road tires will be way more comfortable than running 23mm road tires and a lot smoother than running the cross tires. If you plan to ride on any crushed lime stone or gravel paths, you want at least 28mm. If you are going to be on paved roads only, I'd still go 25mm or 28mm. The advantage of the c'dale over the trek is that you can get wider tires on there (I presume, I'm not sure what the widest tire that will fit on the trek is).

Again, opinions vary. Pick a tire size and use the search feature on this forum and you'll see just how much opinions vary. Personally, I like 28's. 

Either way, swapping tires is something that the shop should do for next to nothing.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> WHAT IF my plan is to ride 90% on road - would you still go for c'dale?


Depends on what the other 10% consisted of. 

First and foremost, pick a bike that best suites your _primary_ intended uses. If that's paved road riding, while I agree that CX bikes add an element of versatility, it's a moot point if you're traversing paved roads, because you don't need it. 

That said, I would go with the widest tire a road bike will take - generally 25c's, but that varies.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks headloss for the tip!

pj, I'm kind of reserving that 10% for adventure (or 10-25%). I want to travel on weekends (out of town) and I don't know what to expect with the condition of the roads. It may include bike trails, or even unpaved roads near constructions, or unexpected situations where cx would fit better. Then again, for primary use, I want to eventually join some group rides on road, use the bike lane for commuting, and going to children's soccer game to watch (school tracks with inner field). 

Mr645 thinks that both are on par and that's a really important point for me. I had an intution that most entry level bikes (similar prices) are similar. If I were to get a road bike like trek I mentioned, I would limit myself to "Then again, for primary use, I want...with inner field)." I felt that to be unnecessary since I'm still just a new rider to test what I can do with either bike.

For joining group rides though, I was hoping a switching of tire would help me keep up...
and headloss' and your tip about 25 and 28 tires is perfect! The store is even willing to include the extra tires in the price of the bike. That makes me want to buy cx more for some reason...

I do have one question though. For a completely new rider with budget, should I buy the best bike I can afford with no accessories? This may allow me to purchase a level higher with Tiagra (then again, I don't know ANY difference between Sora and Tiagra and would probably do fine with Sora). Otherwise, I'm limited to the level of bikes mentioned above at a range of $950-$1050 with $300 worth of accessories.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Given what you've offered above, I'd consider a CX bike. You can do everything you want with one, and the compromises you'll make are small. I'd consider going with a street/ pack dirt type tire in the 28-32c range. Obviously, the fork/ frame will dictate just how wide you can go.

Re: Sora versus Tiagra, as long as they're installed/ setup and tuned correctly, they'll both function/ perform well. The difference is in refinement and 9 speed (Sora) to 10 speed (Tiagra). 

More important than number of speeds alone is matching gearing to terrain and rider fitness, so I think getting a bike that suites your intended uses and fits well is more important than the groupset.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

dj2kim said:


> I do have one question though. For a completely new rider with budget, should I buy the best bike I can afford with no accessories? This may allow me to purchase a level higher with Tiagra (then again, I don't know ANY difference between Sora and Tiagra and would probably do fine with Sora). Otherwise, I'm limited to the level of bikes mentioned above at a range of $950-$1050 with $300 worth of accessories.


No accessories isn't really a viable option.
Helmet, water bottle and holders, a pump and stuff to fix a flat aren't really 'optional' unless you're just riding around the block (so to speak). Sure, it can be done but going without these items wouldn't be a good idea. You'll probably want some cycling speficic clothing too.


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## seacoaster (May 9, 2010)

For my next bike I'm considering a CX bike, although most of my riding is on pavement. I'm riding a regular road bike, and also have two hybrids. The CX gearing makes sense for me, as I never come anywhere near needing a 50t big chainring. I like the wider tires on the hybrids (32 mm one one, 37 mm on the other, which is my errand bike), as they are more comfortable and stable on bad roads. Obviously I don't really care about maximizing speed. Comfort over distances is what I'm concerned about, which is why I'll be looking at CX bikes. I'm currently running 25 mm tires on the road bike, and would probably look at 28s on a CX bike for road use, 32 or wider for unpaved paths or roads.


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

I would go for the best equipment you can afford on the bike, then add the bling as you can afford it. There is a difference between the Sora and Tiagra otherwise they wouldn't make the two. Changing a groupset afterwards is a lot harder than adding accessories at a later date.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks pj for all info! You've been very helpful along with other two riders mentioning 28 (headloss & seacoster). It sounds like the most recurring one, I'm going to see if I can grab those. I think I'm learning a bit about bikes, got to start somewhere. 

Thanks Jay, love4himies! I'm gonna see if I could just keep accessories for my safety and see how my budget goes. Hoping to buy a bike in a week or two!


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## seacoaster (May 9, 2010)

Keep in mind that pressure and tire size is dependent upon your weight. I'm 170 lbs, and can run at a lower pressure than some of the bigger guys. 25s are fairly comfortable on paved roads for me, but the 32s are even smoother. I haven't tried it, but I don't think I can get 28s on my Cannondale Synapse. I'm sure it would be a bit of a speed hit, though.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

I'm really light, 120lbs. Can you tell me what this means for my bike? Does it matter?
I hope I'm fit enough for any road/cx bike...if I were to give you a rough estimate - the only way I could describe it is 65 minutes out of 90 minutes full soccer game.

I hope one of you experienced riders can help me with this question. If let's say I was persuaded that getting a Tiagra for my first bike is better investment. That will bump me up to a next CX bike around $1500, however, road bike only up to $1200. I believe Giant Defy 2 is sold at $1200. Will Defy 2 be a better investment if I'm ok with paved roads only compared to C'dale CAADX7 Sora?

I mean, I'm ok getting a bike THEN choosing my style of riding. I just want a better investment in bike...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> I'm really light, 120lbs. Can you tell me what this means for my bike? Does it matter?
> I hope I'm fit enough for any road/cx bike...if I were to give you a rough estimate - the only way I could describe it is 65 minutes out of 90 minutes full soccer game.
> 
> I hope one of you experienced riders can help me with this question. If let's say I was persuaded that getting a Tiagra for my first bike is better investment. That will bump me up to a next CX bike around $1500, however, road bike only up to $1200. I believe Giant Defy 2 is sold at $1200. Will Defy 2 be a better investment if I'm ok with paved roads only compared to C'dale CAADX7 Sora?
> ...


I would advise against doing this. Choose the bike that best fits your intended uses and anatomy, then choose the specific model in that line based on your budget and figuring in 'essentials' (stated earlier in this thread).

My opinion is that noobs oftentimes over buy what they really need (versus want). Sure, as you go up the model lines there's some added refinement/ (minimal) weight loss/ better finish, but for most recreational riders, Sora and above gets the job done. As I mentioned earlier, choice of gearing (based on fitness/ terrain), will matter more, performance-wise. 

Re: your weight, there are charts that serve as a guide to estimate your starting PSI's. From there, experiment based on road conditions, riding style, tire size/ construction...

Here's on example - read the text as well. It contains some useful info:

Michelin Bicycle USA - A better way forward®


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

You're absolutely right...what am I thinking! I think I will stick to that C'dale bike if it's still in stock. I hope the store can help me inflate the tires as recommended by the link you provided. Just when I visit them occasionally.

pj, do you think you could provide a reliable link/source on the web I can learn more about gearing and when to use rear/front shifters for what purpose? That would help so much for a "noob" like me. I haven't been biking for 10 years now and in fact, I don't even know how to use the brakes/shifts...would definitely help me get started before I learn again with the store agent.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> pj, do you think you could provide a reliable link/source on the web I can learn more about gearing and when to use rear/front shifters for what purpose? That would help so much for a "noob" like me. I haven't been biking for 10 years now and in fact, I don't even know how to use the brakes/shifts...would definitely help me get started before I learn again with the store agent.


Read up on the importance of maintaining adequate cadence/ smoothing the pedal stroke and as you build saddle time, shifting will become second nature.

Here are three links to get you started:

Cycling Cadence

VIDEO: Pedaling Technique

And for hill climbs... (you'll see cadence mentioned here as well):
CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS -

Poke around on that CPTIPS site. There's a wealth of good info there...

Re: your 'essentials' list, I'd add a cycling computer with cadence. You can count out the revolutions yourself, but for around $35, a computer will show you at a glance.


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

I agree that the bike should fit you first and foremost. However, if you like both bikes the same and don't feel a significant difference (remember you can refine the fit a bit by changing stems, saddles, handlebars) between them and if you sink 1000 bucks into a bike and find out later that you don't like the components you then have to sink another $1700-2000 on another bike in a few years. You, IMHO and experience, are better off to buy the best bike that you can afford if you plan on keeping it for any length of time. If you don't have the bucks, buying a used bike may be a better option.

Try riding bikes that have sora, tiagra and 105 components and see if you are willing to use a lower end component for a lengthy ride (everybody is different on what they like). That is the only way to know what is best for you and how each groupset feels. If you live in a flat area, it's probably not a big deal, but if you live in a hilly one, changing gears constantly does wear on a person if the shifting is not precise.

BTW, both Trek & Cannondale are good bikes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

love4himies said:


> ...changing gears constantly does wear on a person if the shifting is not precise.


Whether it be Dura-Ace or Sora, that holds true. It's all in the installation, set up and tuning...


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> Whether it be Dura-Ace or Sora, that holds true. It's all in the installation, set up and tuning...


I've been with the same bike shop for 7 years and who are by the far the best in the area, if not one of the best in Eastern Ontario or even Ontario, and the owner has done all my tune ups and set ups for my 2 bikes and I found a huge difference between Tiagra & 105. 

I know everybody is different and some are just happy to ride, but for some things I'm really picky about and shifting is one (but am not picky about wheels, I know weird, but that's me). I wish I had tried different groupsets before I bought my first bike, I would have saved myself 1700 bucks and would have invested a bit more back then and got at least a 105 groupset. If the OP tries the 2 different groupsets and doesn't find a difference, then he/she shouldn't waste his/her money on the higher end ones, but at least both were tried.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

A long time ago, I bought a nice road bike. I got a good deal on it and didn't really know how they're supposed to fit; thing was a size or two too big for me, and I never quite got the fit right.

In 2008, I bought a less nice 'cross bike. I did a bunch of test-riding and went into it with an idea of how I wanted my bike to fit me. That bike fits me rather well, though it only has Tiagra, as opposed to 105/Ultegra.

This year, I moved. I tried to pare down my bike collection a bit before moving. I've also shuffled 'cross off my list of training goals. So I sent my brother, who's a bit bigger than me, the road bike and kept the 'cross bike. I dropped the bars one more spacer and put road tires on it. Can't say it hurt my Century. Though my Century may hurt me less. 

So far, I'm pretty happy with my decision. So that should give you an idea of the relative importance (subjective to me, anyway) of fit, whether the bike is advertised for 'cross or road, and pricepoint of the components.

Another thing to keep in mind is that while it's easy to put road slicks on a 'cross bike, a road racing-style road bike can't necessarily clear 35 mm tires.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

love4himies said:


> I've been with the same bike shop for 7 years and who are by the far the best in the area, if not one of the best in Eastern Ontario or even Ontario, and the owner has done all my tune ups and set ups for my 2 bikes and I found a huge difference between Tiagra & 105.
> 
> I know everybody is different and some are just happy to ride, but for some things I'm really picky about and shifting is one (but am not picky about wheels, I know weird, but that's me). I wish I had tried different groupsets before I bought my first bike, I would have saved myself 1700 bucks and would have invested a bit more back then and got at least a 105 groupset. If the OP tries the 2 different groupsets and doesn't find a difference, then he/she shouldn't waste his/her money on the higher end ones, but at least both were tried.


As you go on to say, everyone's different. I (for one) find the new 4600 Tiagra to be as good as Shimano's previous generation 105 (5600). 

Funny you should say you're really picky about shifting, because I am as well. I have an Ultegra equipped bike that doesn't shift as well as my 105 does. I haven't bothered to track the reason down (it's a spare bike that doesn't see much use), but i strongly suspect that the cable housing loop at the RD isn't long enough and causes resistance. So... probable set up problem. Ultegra being well established, obviously not an inherent groupset problem.

I do agree that the OP (and others) should ride several bikes with several groupsets before deciding. Trouble is, if one shifts better than another, the reason could be easily remedied with a simple adjustment, but the prospective buyer walks away thinking group A trumps group B in performance. Gotta know what's fixable and what isn't.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks for the links, you are so very helpful, pj!!!

While I'm just a noob buyer, I think I do understand where love4himies is coming from. But three things have persuaded me to stick with Sora, well 4.

1) I'm new and I feel that I won't necessarily notice the difference between the different components. Until maybe 2016, I think Sora will do.
2) I like pj's advice, and I want to learn how to properly shift/gear first. If I gather enough experience to the point where there's no more marginal return, I would then want to test if higher components can push me farther. I want this to be a process and learning curve.
3) I'm on a budget $1700 (leaving me with $1500 to spend w/o HST).
4) I don't mind upgrading...gives me some emotional boost that bike will come out better at the end. But if I'm riding a lambo when I only need an SUV, what else could I have spent on instead? This gives me more fear than upgrading, and rather I would feel really selfish about spending too much.

As for accessories, I'm thinking...
helmet $75, bottle/cage $30, eyewear $50, bontrager flat pack $55, cyclo-comp $40, mirror(?) $30 = $280

I will exercise, then come home right away so I won't need locks for now. I just want safety while riding to come first. In a few months, I may be able to get the lock, fenders (I really want fenders for trying out cx riding too). Maybe clothing and more bags if I really feel like it.

Thanks andrwswitch, it's really nice to know that, once again, fit is the way to go. The store will give me a basic fitting service once I buy - so I'm looking forward to becoming one with my bike!!!

You guys are great! Thanks for sharing your expertise with me!


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

OP: are you female? If so, you may want to keep some of your budget for a good female saddle. If your bum is not comfy your riding will not be fun. Your LBS should be able to help pick out a good one for you.


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## huber (Sep 19, 2013)

Do not forget about a floor pump. If you are looking to save some cash on accessories you can lose the mirror and hold on the computer.


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

huber said:


> Do not forget about a floor pump. If you are looking to save some cash on accessories you can lose the mirror and hold on the computer.


Yes a good floor pump. Having your tires with the proper pressure is very important.


OP: Are you in Canada? You mentioned HST. At this time of year you should have no problem finding a good bike with Tiagra (at least the shifter) for 1500 bucks. There are a lot of clearances on now.


MEC Côte Bicycle (Unisex) - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

I'll try the saddle first and switch if it's really that bad. I should take a note of this though - it seems to be something I didn't even consider!

helmet $75, bottle/cage $30, eyewear $50, seat bag $35, cyclo-comp $40, mirror(?) $30, floor pump $70 = $330

Anything else I'm missing other than a lock?

I'm in Kitchener, Ontario. I really want one of Trek, Giant, and Cdale to begin this journey from a local bike store here (Ziggy's Cycle & Sport Kitchener-Waterloo Trek Giant Cannondale MirraCo. Thule Chariot). I wish I could take advantage of some clearance of older year models.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Are MEC good bikes?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> I'll try the saddle first and switch if it's really that bad. I should take a note of this though - it seems to be something I didn't even consider!
> 
> helmet $75, bottle/cage $30, eyewear $50, seat bag $35, cyclo-comp $40, mirror(?) $30, floor pump $70 = $330
> 
> ...


Saddle preferences are personal, so try the OE saddle first. Swapping it out for another may mean you replaced a perfectly fine saddle (for you) with one that's not so fine (for you).

You can get mirrors for less than $30, and IME they're indispensable for road riding, so keep that on your list. The rest of your list is "ballpark" correct, price-wise, but I'd add the contents of the saddle bag - here's my 'essentials' list:

Wedge saddle bag - medium (Topeak/ Specialized are two good brands)
Tire levers
Spare tube
Patch kit
Piece of old tube or 1$ bill to use as a 'boot'
Innovations Ultraflate Plus CO2 inflator
2-3 12-16g unthreaded carts (I get the 12g's by the box at Walmart)
Multitool w/ chain breaker
Mini-pump (if you don't trust CO2 alone)

Not essential, but nice to have:
Road ID
Rag/ paper towels
Latex gloves
Waterless soap (Gojo, or similar)
A second tube, if it'll fit

Optional:
Lights

I would strongly recommend a Road ID bracelet. Their basic model (Wrist ID Sport) will do. Also, a floor pump, but keep that home. 

EDIT: Two more things. 1) A computer with cadence function. Wired or wireless, depending on preferences/ budget. FWIW, I like Cateyes. 2) Camelbak Podium insulated bottles. I think there's both a chill and big version.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

dj2kim said:


> As for accessories, I'm thinking...
> helmet $75, bottle/cage $30, eyewear $50, bontrager flat pack $55, cyclo-comp $40, mirror(?) $30 = $280


I picked up a helmet at Performance when they were having a sale, retail was $80... I paid $50.
My current bottle cages cost $4 each.
Thumbs down on the bontrager flat pack, if you are going to carry a small hand pump, get one with a hose or it will be a royal p.i.t.a. to use. You can pick up a tube, levers, patch kit for about $15. A pump such as Topeak Road Morph would run about $35.
No clue about eyewear, I haven't made that investment myself. Likewise with the mirror. Not to dissuade you from either, it's personal preference. Heck, I don't use a computer either... that's not to say that it's a bad investment, but it doesn't need to be a priority. I'd put a good front/rear safety light ahead of any of these in priority.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

That was more than I could ask for! I will definitely bring most of these up next time I visit my LBS! 

headloss, I should have looked more into lights as you mentioned, but for now, I will avoid riding at night. It scares me. 

pj, I hope the shop can give me some discounts...these are lots of things to worry about (not including non-essentials) I really don't like buying things online and would like to see if I can buy all accessories at the LBS. Whatever they have, will be my only option (but if out of stock, I have no choice but to buy from online). They do provide the camelback chill bottle and cateyes ($90 canadian but out of stock).

Whenever you guys give me some great suggestions, new questions come up - I hope you guys don't mind...
1. Amazon reliable for buying the accessories online (given that my LBS has gone out of stock for those items)? I just want to get my accessories at ONE place.
2. What does backorder mean for bikes? Is that bike in demand but with little supply?


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Lights can be helpful during the day as well, but then again... so can wearing an orange vest that probably costs $2.

Amazon is reliable, but beware third party venders that often use the wrong photo or specifications for a product. If it says "ships and sold by amazon" it's a safer bet... not that some of the 3rd party venders aren't completely legit. That said, beware of Amazon's price scheme, prices fluctuate wildly on some of their products; I put stuff I want to buy in my shopping cart and sometimes watch it for months to figure out what their lowest price is.

No idea what backorders on bikes are, I'd assume it it something that happens at the distributer level on certain sizes... or that a given year's model is just sold-out until the new model is released. Maybe someone who runs inventory at an LBS will chime in with a better answer.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> pj, I hope the shop can give me some discounts...these are lots of things to worry about (not including non-essentials) I really don't like buying things online and would like to see if I can buy all accessories at the LBS. Whatever they have, will be my only option (but if out of stock, I have no choice but to buy from online). They do provide the camelback chill bottle and cateyes ($90 canadian but out of stock).


Kudos to you for wanting to support your LBS, but I'd get the Cateye (EX: Astrale 8) at Nashbar (or similar) when on sale for around $35.

It's general practice for LBS's to offer 10% discounts on accessories with the purchase of a bike, but policies vary, so ask at the shop you plan on purchasing the bike from. 



dj2kim said:


> Whenever you guys give me some great suggestions, new questions come up - I hope you guys don't mind...
> 1. Amazon reliable for buying the accessories online (given that my LBS has gone out of stock for those items)? I just want to get my accessories at ONE place.
> 2. What does backorder mean for bikes? Is that bike in demand but with little supply?


I like Amazon, but another member may well post an opposite impression. I choose the seller with a higher positive rating, or choose to purchase directly from Amazon. Never had a problem.

Back order means that a product is unavailable from a distributor, but is expected at a future date. IME, that 'future date' is a guesstimate. I wouldn't read further into it, but it's possible that demand has exceeded anticipated supply.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Ok! That should get me started...you guys have been a tremendous help!!! When I get the bike, I'll make sure to let you know first! 

Thanks again!!!


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> Saddle preferences are personal,


Absolutely. Have your LBS let you try a saddle on a good length ride before you buy.


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## JasperL (Aug 21, 2011)

I vote for the mirror. I rode for about 2 years without, and much prefer the ease of just glancing up to see if a car is coming than looking behind me. After a couple of tries making my own, settled on this one - $15. Works perfectly, adjusts easily, mounts on glasses or helmet. I mount on helmet with a bit of tape to keep it in place. 

Bike Peddler Take A Look Mirror at REI.com

I also have front and rear safety lights and run them all the time. In low light, early mornings or evenings, they make a big difference. 

BTW, didn't see bike shorts on your list. It's an essential for me, and I made a big mistake and bought cheap ones to start, quickly upgraded, and wasted the $60 on the first pair than haven't been worn since the first month. You can find good ones for $60, but it's not an area to skimp, IMO.


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## love4himies (Jun 12, 2012)

dj2kim said:


> I'll try the saddle first and switch if it's really that bad. I should take a note of this though - it seems to be something I didn't even consider!
> 
> helmet $75, bottle/cage $30, eyewear $50, seat bag $35, cyclo-comp $40, mirror(?) $30, floor pump $70 = $330
> 
> ...


They do have some good deals on the 2013 models.


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## beshannon (Oct 21, 2013)

dj2kim said:


> Hello, I'm a new rider trying to purchase my first bike but I'm torn b/w 2 bikes that my local bike store recommended for me (they were very helpful). Could anyone give me some input on what they think about the two bikes please?
> 
> Trek 1.2T '14 and Cannondale CAADX7 Sora '14


 Go with the bike that fits the best, feels the best and rides the best. I spent 5 hours in a bike shop yesterday and bought a bike that I never would have thought I would buy going into the store.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I've always been fine with a plain mini-pump. I hold the end that attaches to the valve steady with one hand and pump with the other. For me, it's more important not to carry too much stuff with me. I don't get flat tires that often, so I just look for my flat kit to work. It doesn't need to be the fastest or easiest to use.

I have a multitool with tire levers and a chain tool included. That, tubes and a pump are all I take with me. (Well, and keys, money, phone, sometimes a snack, water...)


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I've always been fine with a plain mini-pump. I hold the end that attaches to the valve steady with one hand and pump with the other.


It's a leverage issue, much easier to push the handle of the pump braced against the ground. The hose is just an extra convenience when attaching to wheels. Perhaps I'm just spoiled because I had a hand pump with a hose first. I tried using a mini-pump for a while and it drove me nuts, which is unfortunate because the smaller size is definitely a plus. I definitely wouldn't want to be trying to push anything over 60psi out of one.

Regardless, if the OP is OK with a mini-pump, you can get a decent quality one for much cheaper than the Bontrager-branded version (that is likely the same pump).


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

I'll take it slow with the accessories.  

As for the bike, should I buy as soon as possible? I mean, the winter is coming and I don't know if it's more advisable to buy during the spring. I'm guessing that C'dale bike will arrive at my LBS around mid November...don't know if I would feel like riding by then.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> I'll take it slow with the accessories.
> 
> *As for the bike, should I buy as soon as possible?* I mean, the winter is coming and I don't know if it's more advisable to buy during the spring. I'm guessing that C'dale bike will arrive at my LBS around mid November...don't know if I would feel like riding by then.


Might be able to find some closeout deals now, ride on nicer days and get a trainer for winter. 

By springtime, you'll have improved fitness and be ready to hit the road.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

I saw somebody buy a trainer last weekend. It looked expensive, maybe out of my reach for now. Anyways, I'll see if I can get a closeout deal now. Then, I'll probably buy right away, when you say closeout - I feel like the time is right now for buying... The C'dale with the guesstimate arrival date may take a month or two...


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

dj2kim said:


> I saw somebody buy a trainer last weekend. It looked expensive, maybe out of my reach for now. Anyways, I'll see if I can get a closeout deal now. Then, I'll probably buy right away, when you say closeout - I feel like the time is right now for buying... The C'dale with the guesstimate arrival date may take a month or two...


My trainer cost $100. I ride it 3 times a week or so for anywhere from 1 to 2 hours per session. Had it for 3 or 4 years. Not expensive.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> I saw somebody buy a trainer last weekend. It looked expensive, maybe out of my reach for now. Anyways, I'll see if I can get a closeout deal now. Then, I'll probably buy right away, when you say closeout - I feel like the time is right now for buying... The C'dale with the guesstimate arrival date may take a month or two...


If you think the weather will degrade enough between now and the delivery date for the bike, shift your focus (and funds) from some of the accessories to the trainer. As one example, you don't need a helmet riding a trainer.

Conversely, I'll ride in temps down to the mid-30's, but everyone's different.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Hmm, That sounds like a great idea! I might just do that if trainer costs $100. I thought they were somewhere between $300-500.

Are nashbar bikes good?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

There's something to be said for waiting for the spring if winter weather sucks where you are. A friend of mine dove into cycling in October a few years ago. October is often nice, or at least has a lot of nice days, where I am. But she soldiered through November, which is unmitigatedly sucky and December until the snow forced her off her bike. She was pretty burned out on the whole thing and didn't really pick up again in the spring.

It's a lot easier to enjoy cycling when the weather makes it fun and pleasant to be out on a bike.

For context, I'm in the Pacific Northwest. It doesn't get very cold here, but October days are in the 50s, winter has long stretches in the 40s with freezes some nights, and yes, it does rain a lot. Not sure where you are our how your winter compares.

I love cycling and have done it in almost every weather condition. So I don't want to dissuade you. But I also see winter as a good time to take a break and cross-train. So I won't be on my bikes as much myself.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> Are nashbar bikes good?


Please, don't buy your first bike sight unseen. Buy from a reputable LBS where you'll get sized/ fitted.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Oh yea, definitely buying from LBS. I guess I shouldn't have included "bikes" there. Are nashbar website good - that's what I meant.  They have some accessories including trainer at a bargain prices, wondered if I should take advantage of that right now.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> Oh yea, definitely buying from LBS. I guess I shouldn't have included "bikes" there. Are nashbar website good - that's what I meant.  They have some accessories including trainer at a bargain prices, wondered if I should take advantage of that right now.


Generally speaking, Nashbar's fine. Wait for their 'coupon' sales or free shipping offers. 

Can't vouch for their trainers, but would recommend one with variable resistance and a remote to adjust it. Read the reviews. They're usually a pretty good indication of a product's design/ quality.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Nashbar and Performance Bike are sister companies with much of the same or virtually identical stock. If you have a PB nearby, you can see a lot of what they sell in person (more or less).


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Do they offer free international shipping (I can't seem to figure out from there website) to Canada from time to time? I do have some wishlist from that website that may help me reduce spending by 50% - but then shipping and duties are in the way.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

dj2kim said:


> Hmm, That sounds like a great idea! I might just do that if trainer costs $100. I thought they were somewhere between $300-500.
> 
> Are nashbar bikes good?


Can't speak for their bikes but I got the trainer through their parent co. Performance. An Ascent Fluid.
My experiences with Nashbar and Performance have been good but not great. For buying a bike I would prefer a LBS to help you get fit and find the right bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dj2kim said:


> Do they offer free international shipping (I can't seem to figure out from there website) to Canada from time to time? I do have some wishlist from that website that may help me reduce spending by 50% - but then shipping and duties are in the way.


They're running a free shipping promo now, but it states "valid on US orders only", so you may want to contact customer service with that question. 

You may already be aware of this, but you can change location (upper right of their website) and shipping charges should be calculated at checkout.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

Ok, sorry for a late reply. I've been visiting some outlets/mall/bike shops and going to various websites such as nashbar and it took soooo much time. 

Just wanted to thank you guys for all the help. I got the bike and helmet/bottle cage and they will arrive at my LBS shortly. 

For accessories, three local bike shops were about 1.5 to 3 times more expensive, so I went ahead and looked at places like nashbar - nashbar required me to pay shipping and duties costing around $80 - unfortunately that drove me away! I wish I was in US.

I ended up getting the items below (in Canadian $), no shipping no duties.

Eyewear $30
Cyclo-Computer (wired w/ cadence) $30
Mini Pump (w/p gauge) $30
Camelbak Chill Bottle $14
Leg band $4

Seat Bag $16
Two tubes $8
Two levers $2.50
Patch kit $2

Total with tax came up to just under $150. There are a few more accessories I need to get, but will defer them for spring. I hope I made a good decision, always something that bugs me after I purchase more than $100 on anything.

When pj listed out some accessories, I had no idea what they were being used for and why they were so necessary. In fact, I probably would have only gotten an eyewear! That's just how stupid I was a week ago. Now, I understand fully - and even ran an experimental tube repair with patch kit and putting it back on the bike. You guys saved my life, because I would have been stranded somewhere very far from my home if I didn't ask away in this forum.

Thanks again for your help!!!


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## huber (Sep 19, 2013)

Congrats! I went through the same thing about a month ago. Like you I get uneasy about any purchase over $100. A month later I am glad I bought the bike and everything that goes along with it. Once you get a few rides under your belt, you will be happy you did it.
:thumbsup:


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Glad things worked out for you, but unless I missed something, I don't see where you stated which bike you settled on.


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## dj2kim (Oct 19, 2013)

<Post removed> 

Thanks for your help!


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