# Cleaning a chain with Simple Green?



## calle_betis (Jun 30, 2006)

Happy New Year friends!

This is the first time I have done this. Suggestions on efficient chain cleaning is welcomed.

I have a question regarding cleaning chains and the cassette. I bought a chain scrubber which came with a small bottle of citrus solvent. I am wondering if I can use Simple Green citrus solvent in its place?


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

I don't like using water based chain cleaners. Even if it does a great job of cleaning, it inevitably leaves water behind. You can dry off the outside, but it's tough to get the inner surfaces dry

So I use diesel fuel (like kerosene), but lots of other oil based degreasers are available.


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

calle_betis said:


> Happy New Year friends!
> 
> This is the first time I have done this. Suggestions on efficient chain cleaning is welcomed.
> 
> I have a question regarding cleaning chains and the cassette. I bought a chain scrubber which came with a small bottle of citrus solvent. I am wondering if I can use Simple Green citrus solvent in its place?


Use the citrus degreaser, but be forewarned that this stuff is not as benign as it sounds. Don't get it on painted surfaces or it will "gel up" the paint . You have a bit of time to rinse it off it you get some overspill. The chain scrubber will usually catch any drips. There is usually a sponge wiper that will squeegee off the excess cleaner. 

Now, once your chain is soaked with citrus degreaser, now what? Well, you need to rinse it off.

I usually rinse out the used cleaner from the chain scrubber and then fill up with Simple Green to remove the excess grease and citrus cleaner. After that, I spray down the cassette and chain with water, then blow out all the parts with compressed air. The wait for everything to dry off good (like a few hours or overnight) and then lube up the chain and drive train parts

When I clean my chain, I usually go the extra step and take off the cassette and clean that up with cirtrus degreaser and rinse good with water and dry off good before putting it back onto the wheel. I also clean out the jockey wheels - I don't take them off, but put some degreaser on a rag and wipe them down good and clean out the derailleur hanger. After this, I usually go and clean up the whole bike.

I don't use the chain scrubber all the time for every cleaning. For in-between cleanings I take a blue paper shop towel (you can get them at auto parts stores, WalMart, or Home Depot), soak in down in some T9, or whatever lubricant you use, clamp the towel around the chain, and just run the chain backwards to clean of the major chain gunk. When done, just toss the paper towel in the trash.

When I am riding a lot (like during the summer, three or four times a week 80 to 150 miles total) I usually clean the chain about every three weeks with the light cleanings in between. 

Note that everyone seems to have a system, method, or Black Art they use to clean and lube their drive trains You'll find the right method that works for you once you do it a few times.

See also the Park Tool website for chain maintenance.

Later!

ColoradoVeloDude
Colorado Springs, CO


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

calle_betis said:


> Happy New Year friends!
> 
> This is the first time I have done this. Suggestions on efficient chain cleaning is welcomed.
> 
> I have a question regarding cleaning chains and the cassette. I bought a chain scrubber which came with a small bottle of citrus solvent. I am wondering if I can use Simple Green citrus solvent in its place?



PS: On more thing -- I don't think Simple Green has the grease cutting capabilities that you want to make your chain nice and clean!


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## walrus (Jan 29, 2004)

Super Clean works a lot better.


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

calle_betis said:


> ......... I am wondering if I can use Simple Green citrus solvent in its place?


The best place for Simple Green is the store shelf. Leave it there.

There have been several tech discussions over on VeloNews a year or so ago that warn about Simple Green. It eats alloys. I've had it ruin one chain that I was going to soak before washing and lubing. Really bad idea.

There is a lot of thought now that you should lube you chain with something like ProLink Gold, and use the same thing to wipe off (aka clean) the outside when it gets a little gunky.

You really can't clean the roller pins inside the links so why try? You'll wash more grit in than you'll ever wash out.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I like Simple Green for general cleaning, but not particularly for chains.
I try to wipe down my chain after each ride so gunk doesn't build up.
That way, you can clean and lube your chain with whatever Lube you like.
When chain does get dirty, I dribble on Mineral Spirits. I keep an old Lube Bottle filled with just Mineral Spirits, and dribble it on like a lube, and wipe clean. Then I dribble on my Lube preference, which for me is Rock"N"Roll GOLD.
Wipe down and your set to go.


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## John Nelson (Mar 10, 2006)

Simple Green has been shown to eat some of the metal if you soak the chain in it for six months. But if you just wash your chain and rinse it off, it's not going to hurt anything.

I have a chain cleaning machine, but I never bother to get it out any more. Simple Green and an old toothbrush is easier and faster and doesn't require me to clean and put away the machine afterwards. It also allows me to clean the gear teeth and jockey wheels at the same time.

Note that some people (e.g., Bicycling Magazine) have suggested that cleaning a chain too thoroughly is bad. I only clean my chain every few months at most, and I never soak it in anything. If you regularly lube, the chain stays "clean enough."


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## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

In addition to the prior comments re:Simple Green.

Do yourself a BIG favor.


For days where you want to be more thorough than just a quick wipe down of gunk-Get a master link on your chain. Makes life FAR easier. No brush contraptions which make a mess everywhere and collect gunk. Simply remove your chain and soak in degreaser, wipe clean with paper towels. Same with the cassette-or you can floss it on the bike. Wipe cranks clean. Remount chain. Much more tidy and thorough, and less hassle IMHO.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Keep it Simple, and keep it Green.


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## Bill Silverman (Apr 2, 2007)

I've used Simple Green in my Park chain cleaner for years. I'm aware of the intense debate raging about the corrosive properties of Simple Green, but I haven't had any problems using it and rinsing it off the components after a few minutes.

My general method is to run the chain cleaner with Simple Green about 60 crank rotations, clean out the machine and fill with clean water, repeat the 60 crank rotations, clean and refill the chain cleaner a second time with water and do a "final rinse". Afterwards I wipe the chain down thoroughly with a clean rag, let it dry a bit, and relube. I have 9 bikes in my stable and all the chains are clean, lubed and quiet.


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## brujenn (Nov 26, 2007)

Just keep it away from your old mavics with the screend on graphics.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Bill Silverman said:


> I've used Simple Green in my Park chain cleaner for years. I'm aware of the intense debate raging about the corrosive properties of Simple Green, but I haven't had any problems using it and rinsing it off the components after a few minutes.
> 
> My general method is to run the chain cleaner with Simple Green about 60 crank rotations, clean out the machine and fill with clean water, repeat the 60 crank rotations, clean and refill the chain cleaner a second time with water and do a "final rinse". Afterwards I wipe the chain down thoroughly with a clean rag, let it dry a bit, and relube. I have 9 bikes in my stable and all the chains are clean, lubed and quiet.


9 BIKES!
That's a lot of Simple Green, and a lot of Cleaning - Cranking - Rinsing - Wiping - Lubing.
Probably cuts into your riding time, but hey it's winter and the Holidays are over.
Think I'll go Lube a chain. LOL!


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*mineral spirits..*

I would never use one of those clamp-on chain cleaner devices. For one thing the cleaner has to get all over the RD pulleys and into the bearings or bushings. Bushings can simply be flushed with spray lube, but not ball bearings. Unless the chain is cleaned twice, it will be swimming in dirty solvent at the end of the cleaning process.

Get an appropriate master link and take the chain off. I drop mine in an old water bottle, partially filled with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and shake for aminute or so. Pour the solvent into another water bottle for storage and reuse. Fill the chain cleaning bottle with hot water and liquid dish soap and shake for another minute or so. Pour out the soapy water and refill the container with clean hot water to rinse the chain. Dry the exterior of the chain and then use an appropriate solvent/lubricant to displace the water and lube the chain. WD-40 will work and so will the common home brew lube mixture of 3-6 parts mineral spirits to one part oil.

I clean my cassettes without removing them, most of the time. Brushing on mineral spirits will get the sprockets fairly clean with little effort. It works best to remove the wheel and point the cassette down, so the solvent drips off toward the smallest cog. Use a small amount of solvent and let the brush do the work of scrubbing off the dirt. A small 1" paint brush works great. I finish up with a little wiping with a rag to dry the sprockets.


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## rcummings1 (Oct 6, 2008)

I use a chain cleaner filled with Pro Link Gold. Fill it up, run it through, wipe it down, done. Cleans and lubes in one shot. Works great. It's amazing how clean it gets the chain.


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## Export A (Mar 18, 2007)

calle_betis said:


> Happy New Year friends!
> 
> This is the first time I have done this. Suggestions on efficient chain cleaning is welcomed.
> 
> I have a question regarding cleaning chains and the cassette. I bought a chain scrubber which came with a small bottle of citrus solvent. I am wondering if I can use Simple Green citrus solvent in its place?


I've used it for years just mix it with water and rinse thoroughly before lubing. If it is eating your chain you'll never notice as your chain wi9ll wear out long before simple green can damage it. I also use it on car engines the garage floor etc.never had a problem with it.


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## unit (Jun 11, 2008)

Export A said:


> I've used it for years just mix it with water and rinse thoroughly before lubing. If it is eating your chain you'll never notice as your chain wi9ll wear out long before simple green can damage it.


I think you have touched on something there. 

What sort of damage are you expecting to witness other than shortened chain/drive train life?

Simple green is fine, if you follow all of the precautions noted in this thread, and are not bothered by rust on/in your chain, and the hasty wear that comes with the corrosion.


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## calle_betis (Jun 30, 2006)

Export A said:


> I've used it for years just mix it with water and rinse thoroughly before lubing. If it is eating your chain you'll never notice as your chain wi9ll wear out long before simple green can damage it. I also use it on car engines the garage floor etc.never had a problem with it.



I don't have a bike repair stand yet so I hung my bike with some rope from the floors joists in the basement (where I ride during the Michigan winters). It wasn't very stable to work on but did the trick until I get a stand (my X-ams present was a Tacx trainer). Anyway, I spilled some of the grease from the park chain cleaning tool on the floor and was perturbed. The Simple Green cleaned it right up. It's good stuff.

In any case, what I did was sprayed the Simple Green on the cassette and later sprayed H2O on the cassette and chain to dilute the cleaners. I wiped it down as thoroughly as I could and then let it site a few hours before I lubed it all up. It worked pretty well, I think for the first timer. 

I understand the debate, and it's nice to see the differing opinions.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

I use Simple Green for general clean up of my bikes, I don't use it for cleaning my chains. It's not necessary to pull your chain off anyway. Just wipe it down after each ride and put a drop of home brew in each link, run your chain backwards through the rollers a couple of times and wipe off the chain. It takes but about 30 seconds. If I were to pull off my chain I'd dunk it in mineral spirits as C40 mentioned. I've tried Simple Green and it left a messy goup on the chain, didn't do a good job at all. Of course riding conditons play a big roll.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

i've used simple green for years. i used to use diesel fuel when i worked for the first pro team i was with, but since then, most races have outlawed it's use when all the teams are staying at race hotels. simple green works fine, just rinse it of thoroughly (like you wouldn't do this anyway?) and dry it off, then lube. i've never had a problem w/ it doing anything to paint, either. i never see rust on any of my chains...drying them off is not that hard. 
bicycling mag said it's bad to get your chain 'too clean'? really? well, i guess it's believable when you consider the source. i will give my road bike a quick cleaning every couple of rides in the dry, and every time it's ridden in bad weather. only takes a few minutes, and i think the drivetrain lasts longer when it's always clean and lubricated. and...my bike always looks and rides like it's new. i can't believe it when people say they never clean their bikes 'cuz they don't have time. gimme a break, ride 5mins less...


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## ncvwnut (Oct 15, 2008)

Simple green is great. I use it on automobile stuff where it's even greasier. As for the corrosion, yes it is acidic but not acidic enough to create damage for the length of time you use it. Water is just as damaging over time. Go for it and have fun....


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> yes it is acidic but not acidic enough to create damage for the length of time you use it.


It's not acidic. It's basic (pH 9.5).


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## ncvwnut (Oct 15, 2008)

My apologies. Dr. John is right. 2-butoxyethanol has a high pKa for -OH which makes it basic...ooopppss. I make mistakes like everyone else. I also just read the basicity from the simple green site. I didn't even see it until I looked again.


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## BentChainring (Jun 23, 2005)

ncvwnut said:


> My apologies. Dr. John is right. 2-butoxyethanol has a high pKa for -OH which makes it basic...ooopppss. I make mistakes like everyone else. I also just read the basicity from the simple green site. I didn't even see it until I looked again.


Yep, and bases _can_ attack aluminum alloys, they are remarkably resilient against acidic attack, however. SInce your chain does not contain any aluminum, you will most likely, be fine using SG to clean your chain.

That said... I use the Park Chain Scrubber (CG-2) filled with mineral spirits. Works quite well, and its not _as_ important to let it dry completely before applying your wax lube of choice (since they contain naphtha and other volatile solvents which will evaporate along with the mineral spirits)

Happy riding..


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## Ricko (Jan 22, 2004)

I use Simple Green when I want to restore my chain to "like new" condition. I soak in SG for a while and then scrub til it looks like new...and then repeat to make sure I didn't miss any crud. Afterwards I rinse VERY VERY well with scalding hot water and hang to let it dry THOROUGHLY before I reinstall on the bike/apply lube/ride. 

I've heard people say that SG will "pit" the chains plates/pins surfaces and I say -whatever-...this is a consumable/temporary part and we're not talking rocket science or brain surgery here. It's one of the simplest methods of transmitting power that there is. It's a CHAIN, not jewlery.


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

In case you didn't look it up, just some interesting reading.

http://velonews.com/article/9216


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## Ricko (Jan 22, 2004)

Ricko said:


> I use Simple Green when I want to restore my chain to "like new" condition. I soak in SG for a while and then scrub til it looks like new...and then repeat to make sure I didn't miss any crud. Afterwards I rinse VERY VERY well with scalding hot water and hang to let it dry THOROUGHLY before I reinstall on the bike/apply lube/ride.
> 
> I've heard people say that SG will "pit" the chains plates/pins surfaces and I say -whatever-...this is a consumable/temporary part and we're not talking rocket science or brain surgery here. It's one of the simplest methods of transmitting power that there is. It's a CHAIN, not jewlery.


I should mention that when I'm talking soaking in SG for a "while" I'm talking 5-10 minutes. Also, I'm not submerging the chain in SG I'm spraying it down with SG mixed 50/50 with water and letting it lay in the sink for a short time before I scrub.


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## jollydriver (Nov 12, 2006)

*Has Anyone used the Extreme Simple Green Aircraft Cleaner?*



MerlinAma said:


> In case you didn't look it up, just some interesting reading.
> 
> http://velonews.com/article/9216



I had not read this article before, and I am not familiar with the product Green Extreme Aircraft Cleaner as mentioned in the article. Has anyone used this? If so, how well does it work? A quick net search indicates prices are $2-3 more per gallon than regular Simple Green, which seems pretty minor if it is a superior product. 

Per Simple Green's website, this should be a non-corrosive alternative (it meets Boeing and Pratt & Whitney specs for being safe for use on aluminum and carbon fiber).

Regards

JD


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## Ziggy (Sep 12, 2006)

I have used simple green in the past to clean the chain and cassette when it was on the bike, using a spray bottle and brush to clean in between the cogs.
I don't use it anymore because I was seeing it change/tarnish the finish on the rear hub. That was justletting it sit on there for a few minutes while brushing the cassette. I now use finish line or citrus degreaser for this task.

its not worth the money to skimp on . Just my 2 cents worth


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## tomk96 (Sep 24, 2007)

don't soak any chains in it, but spray, scrub and rinse it off. i use it all the time.

soaking in a water based solution doesn't make sense. that seems to be what the velonews article was initially based.


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## Rodder07 (Nov 18, 2008)

Whats the cost of a new chain? Chain stretch is what ruins Rings/Cogs...

I change chain annually if not sooner, and I have a Campy bike that I raced hard from 87-93 and still have yet to change Rings on it.

Never cleaned a chain, wiped them off, but never, cleaned


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

We had some people clean the windows in our house a while back. Their "juice" seemed to work so good that I asked them what was in it. They replied back that they use Dawn liquid dish detergent and a little bit of ammonia. 

Simple Green and citrus degreaser both seem to have some downsides as being hard on paint and finishes. Maybe try a few drops of liquid dish detergent in the chain cleaner tool with some very hot water -- and a good rinse afterwards?

Just a thought...

ColoradoVeloDude


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## Poppadaddio (Apr 15, 2007)

*Nothing beats a long ride in a hard rain!*

Then spray it off, then maybe a little citrus degreaser, then wipe it dry, then maybe a little WD-40, then wipe that off, allow to dry, then a little Boeshield T9.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*A new Dawn*



ColoradoVeloDude said:


> We had some people clean the windows in our house a while back. Their "juice" seemed to work so good that I asked them what was in it. They replied back that they use Dawn liquid dish detergent and a little bit of ammonia. Maybe try a few drops of liquid dish detergent in the chain cleaner tool with some very hot water -- and a good rinse afterwards?
> 
> Just a thought...


This is the formula for the standard "pro mechanic" bike cleaning. A couple of brushes and a bucket of soapy (with Dawn) water. Based on experience, I quit doing this because it triggered rusting on parts that normally would/should have a light film of lube on them.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I have recently been using Simple Green Bike Cleaner-Degreaser.
View attachment 151685

It comes in an aerosol spray, and goes on as a foam.
Doesn't drip and stays where you spray it.
Seems to penetrate and lift grime from the chain.
I spray, let it foam and sit a few seconds and wipe down. Seems to do a good job, and if I blow the chain with my compressor air gun, i don't see any grime or particles from inside, so it appears to deep clean.

LINK


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## jaimeS (Nov 18, 2005)

*What about clean up?*

To all the folks who use mineral spirits and or kerosene, how do you dispose of the stuff when you're done? I've been using Finish Line Citrus degreaser with great results but it's expensive and I've killed a 2 foot section of grass where I normally clean the bike. I've occasionally removed the chain and soaked it in the Finish Line which is less messy, but I've got a big container of mineral spirits and would like to try something new. 

Scott


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

jaimeS said:


> To all the folks who use mineral spirits and or kerosene, how do you dispose of the stuff when you're done?


If you have a substantial amount of degreaser left, just store it and reuse it. You may want to decant the sediment after letting it sit for while.

In my case, I use a chain cleaning tool that holds only a couple of ounces of cleaner at the beginning and has only a bit left after the cleaning. I pour the residue onto my woodpile (which, at this time of year, will shortly end up in my wood stove). I make two passes with the cleaning process, so this gets done twice.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

IME one of the best uses for Simple Green is doing laundry. No, I'm not kidding. If you get grease on your expensive new jersey, spray the spot liberally with full strength S.G., let it sit for maybe 5 min, then launder as usual. It also works well for washing rags, cleaning oil stains from french fries, etc. It's also excellent for cleaning your hands after wrenching on the bike, car, lawn mower, etc. I used to use it for cleaning my bike, but I haven't for a long time now. Like many here I use home brew to clean & lube at the same time.


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## martinrjensen (Sep 23, 2007)

sometimerider said:


> I don't like using water based chain cleaners. Even if it does a great job of cleaning, it inevitably leaves water behind. You can dry off the outside, but it's tough to get the inner surfaces dry
> 
> So I use diesel fuel (like kerosene), but lots of other oil based degreasers are available.


I don't think you could get anything better than diesel, except maybe jet fuel (kerosene). Both are very similar, they will clean extreamly well and leave a lubricant at the same time. this as opposed to any water based cleaner, which will leave trace amounts of water, or nothing at all which is almost worse.


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## Cygnus (Nov 26, 2004)

homebrew user here. 

i use ordor-less mineral spririts mixed with oil for general cleaning and lubrication. 
usually on the bike, but will occasionally take the chain off and use straight mineral spririts in a glass jar for more thorough cleaning.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Cygnus said:


> homebrew user here.
> 
> i use ordor-less mineral spririts mixed with oil for general cleaning and lubrication.
> usually on the bike, but will occasionally take the chain off and use straight mineral spririts in a glass jar for more thorough cleaning.


+1 for Mineral spirits and home Brew.


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

martinrjensen said:


> I don't think you could get anything better than diesel, except maybe jet fuel (kerosene). Both are very similar, they will clean extreamly well and leave a lubricant at the same time. this as opposed to any water based cleaner, which will leave trace amounts of water, or nothing at all which is almost worse.


Well, we were talking just about cleaning.

After cleaning, I use a 3-1 homebrew for the new lube.


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## bruzer (Apr 7, 2008)

cxwrench said:


> i've used simple green for years. ...
> 
> bicycling mag said it's bad to get your chain 'too clean'? really? well, i guess it's believable when you consider the source. ...


I have heard this argument put a different way that has relevance to this thread. 

The owner of the LBS taught a community education bike maintenance class and the subject of chain cleaning came up. He stated that chains are assembled in a lube/grease bath, and have lubrication inside and out when you buy them. The shop did tests with 2 identical chains, same bike, and same rider. One chain only had lube added, and the other was cleaned (actually not sure how it was cleaned, but some kind of solvent and immersion) and then lubed on regular intervals. The chains were used on the same bike and the chain that was cleaned wore out sooner (less mileage). They suggest that the cleaner removed the lube from inside the chain and the lubrication they provided afterward never got inside (or didn't stick around as long as the factory grease) the chain as well as from the factory. They concluded it was better to add lubrication (incidentally they use T9) to chains and never use a solvent to clean them.

I am not saying they have proven anything, but it caused me reflect on the whole "cleaning" issue. Also for full disclosure even after hearing that story I broke my chain and cleaned it in solvent anyway, maybe to see if they were right, maybe just because I want a clean chain, or both.

I know the chain lube topic has been beat to death, but I like to read the debate from time to time, especially if someone has new information or techniques.


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## ZoSoSwiM (Mar 7, 2008)

When I started out with mountain biking i needed a safe and clean way to clean my bike and chain in my tiny apartment... I got a rubber mat and a Pedro's chain scrubber. It worked but I had to be super careful to not make a mess. 1 chain later I upgraded to a SRAM 900 series chain with power link. Started soaking the chain in simple green.. purple power.. or whatever else I had on hand.. 

Took forever to rinse off and after I noticed the chain lube never stuck as well. After a few rides my chain would be back to normal. I was still eating chains left and right.


Now I've graduated to a much better strategy. 
-Take chain off.. wipe down on rag..
-Soak in simple green full strength..
-Rinse and slosh around with a little more simple green to get the rest.
-Rinse entirely with really hot water a few times till no more suds.
-Place chain in small bowl.. Pour a little rubbing alcohol over chain. Swish around for a little while. 
-Wipe off chain and hang in front of fan. 
-Once dry I get it back on the bike lube it and ride happy.

Yeah.. it's a lot of steps but I found the rubbing alcohol helps remove the residual cleaner and speeds up drying times. My chains last a lot longer now and they're much quieter!


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## stringer (Jun 23, 2008)

Question: 

If using diesel fuel with the chain still on your bike, can't diesel damage plastic like the sprockets? Also, if the chain is still on the bike, what is best for rinsing?


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## Poppadaddio (Apr 15, 2007)

*Sheldon Brown's Final Word on Chain Cleaning*

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Sheldon Brown's final word on the subject:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

stringer said:


> If using diesel fuel with the chain still on your bike, can't diesel damage plastic like the sprockets? Also, if the chain is still on the bike, what is best for rinsing?


Plastic sprockets aren't very likely.

Regardless, diesel won't hurt anything that is anywhere near the drive train.

When using diesel (or other oil based degreasers), rinsing isn't needed. If you're going to lube the chain with something else (recommended, because diesel is thinner than desirable), it would be best to wipe down the chain with a rag after cleaning (and then again after lubing).


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

Mr. Versatile said:


> It also works well for washing rags, cleaning oil stains from french fries, etc.


once again....late to the party..Wow, I never even considered washing my french fries! Thanks for the tip....


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## stringer (Jun 23, 2008)

Thanks *sometimerider* that is good to know ... I used diesel yesterday on my chain but got a little paranoid as when I work on my diesel car I always clean the diesel off if I get spray from my injectors in order to protect rubber/plastic parts. I do know fuel lines have to be special rubber so they do no get eaten away.

After reading all the posts here I am going to purchase a chain removal tool and do it the right way.

Sheldon Brown's Final Word is very good and funny ... pipe cleaners!?! ... where do you get them??? ha ha


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## zerotopanmass (Aug 26, 2008)

I made the mistake of using Foamy Engine Brite on my drivetrain a few weeks ago. It did a stellar job of cleaning a ton of gunk off (and is dirt cheap), but when you read the back and see the chemicals that are in there...GULP.

I posted the experience here and here.

I won't be in a hurry to use it again.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Touch0Gray said:


> once again....late to the party..Wow, I never even considered washing my french fries! Thanks for the tip....


Works equally well on onion rings & french fried mushrooms.


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## PBike (Jul 6, 2007)

Poppadaddio said:


> I'm surprised no one has mentioned Sheldon Brown's final word on the subject:
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html


There you go, the final word.


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## willtsmith_nwi (Jul 25, 2006)

sometimerider said:


> I don't like using water based chain cleaners. Even if it does a great job of cleaning, it inevitably leaves water behind. You can dry off the outside, but it's tough to get the inner surfaces dry
> 
> So I use diesel fuel (like kerosene), but lots of other oil based degreasers are available.


Rinse with isopropyl alcohol using a chain cleaner. Problem solved. It even evaporates super fast so you apply your lube after about 5 minutes.


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## cohiba7777 (Jul 6, 2006)

Diesel.


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