# New ultra budget build...



## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

I am getting excited, my frame gets here on Monday. I realize that the season is basically over but thats ok because it give me a long time to piece a bike together.

I found a used Scattante frame listed under collectables/lamps/other on ebay and snagged it for $80 out the door. I am realizing that a fork is going to be possibly my biggest expense for this bike. 

As far as wheels go I a have set of XT non disc hubs I scored for 7 bucks on ebay a few years ago. I'm contemplating IRO Cold Fusion rims. I have enough spokes to build like 10 pairs of wheels (another stupid ebay deal). I have a set of Huchinson CX tires that I randomly picked up years ago.

Drive train is looking like a Shimano/Campy mut build because I like to do things different. Veloce controls with possibly an old 600 or 950 XTR short cage and whatever FD is cheap. Haven't decided on 8 or 9sp, but I guess it doesn't really matter. 

Rest of the build...
Bars/stem: PRO Vibe 7s (will be by far the nicest parts on the bike...except for the fork)
Seat Post/saddle: Control Tech I already have/TBD
Crank: TBD hopefully I can score a set of newer but beat Shimano w/o rings or a Gossamer
Brakes: TBD but leaning towards TRP 720 or Shorty.

I guess that basically covers the major parts of the bike save for the fork. Any thoughts or advice on any/all of it? Especially the fork...


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## c-lo (Sep 30, 2008)

:thumbsup: picks of frame when you get it.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

If you're planning on racing, that Control Tech seatpost may not be the best bet. Assuming that its one of the older ones with the rotating head/clamping mechanism. DAMHIK that if you land on it just right (wrong?!) that the nose of your saddle starts to point sky high.

You're going to have to re-space the rear hub down to 132.5 at the minimum. 130mm would be better. May need a different axle depending on your frame.

Otherwise it sounds like one of my builds. I tend to toss stuff on and upgrade as I go. Eventually it all ends up Red or D/A but it doesn't start that way.

M


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

I do plan on racing it. The post is a 3a I think. Its just a simple one bolt post.

I haven't been able to find to much info on the frame spacing but I saw 132.5 floated somewhere. Either way the hub has a 5mm spacer on the non drive side and then I could just dremel the axle down. 

I want to do a set of tubs at some point also. 

Pictures for sure.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Update. Just scored an 6500 Ultegra FD for 5.25. Not bad. Anybody have a 31.8 clamp they want to trade for a 34.9?

Edit. Add a Gossamer crank to the list. 25 bucks will need to find a 46t ring. 

I went and dug out a 6200 series 600 RD. Cleaned up pretty nice and should work well. Also the Control Tech seat post. 

This is coming together a lot quicker than expected...


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Crank should be here today so that's cool. 

I am thinking about splurging a bit on the rims since I got the hubs so cheap. After reading CXmag's series on tubeless I am thinking that is the way I want to go because I don't have the funds or the room for 3 or 4 set of tubs. 

Any recommendations for rims?


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

FYI - the rear spacing on the Scattante is 130. I've owned 2 of them.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

krisdrum said:


> FYI - the rear spacing on the Scattante is 130. I've owned 2 of them.


I have the hub sitting in the frame right now and it went in with minimal effort. Less than the 130mm hub in my 126 spaced road bike. In any case there is a 5mm spacer on the hub that I am probably going to take out so I can swap wheels to the road bike as well.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

I'm a bit surprised. But maybe I am not remembering accurately. I never did try to put anything but a "road" hub in there.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Maybe I am just used to having to wedge the hub in my road bike but I stand corrected. I took out the 5mm spacer and it dropped right in. Just need to hack a few mm off the axle and that is sorted.


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## climbbikesurf (Jun 15, 2007)

I've been using the Campy/Shimano drivetrain and it works great. I have the Campy Veloce with Ultegra RD (got a great deal on it) and running an 8 speed sram cassette. It works as if it was designed that way. I like to do things a little differently too so I thought I would have to play with it to get it to work right. It just works and is so much cheaper especially with the 8 speed cassette and chain.

Sounds like your bike is coming together fast.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

climbbikesurf said:


> I've been using the Campy/Shimano drivetrain and it works great. [...]
> 
> Sounds like your bike is coming together fast.


Thats exactly what I want to hear :thumbsup:. 

The quickness of the build is directly correlated to the decision to run the mixed group.

Tracking down 46t chain rings is proving more difficult that I thought though.

Sorry still no pictures because by the time I get home from work its dark and there is nowhere in my apartment that is good for taking pictures.


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## climbbikesurf (Jun 15, 2007)

Wow a 46? That's too high for me. I have a 44 and rarely use it. Sadly, I'm in my 34 mostly but with my 12-26 cassette I am pretty well covered.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

Agree with Climbbikesurf. Personally a 46 was too tall for me. Heck, I was using it in crits, but not in cross. A 44 or even a 42, depending on what you are running as your small ring will probably be sufficient. I run a 38 single ring and have never been in a situation yet where I was hoping for an extra gear.


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## Gripped (Nov 27, 2002)

krisdrum said:


> Agree with Climbbikesurf. Personally a 46 was too tall for me. Heck, I was using it in crits, but not in cross. A 44 or even a 42, depending on what you are running as your small ring will probably be sufficient. I run a 38 single ring and have never been in a situation yet where I was hoping for an extra gear.


Back when I was running gears, I loved the 44/38 combo. Usually I could use one or the other and not shift the front the whole race.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Good points. I am used to smashing around a 53 on the road. But thinking about the way I ride my mountain bike I spend a most of my time in the middle ring on the trails. These are the same trails the CX bike is likely to see some practice action. Maybe a 44 is the way to go. 44/39?


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Trying to order rims from IRO. I get all the way though to the screen where I should be able to submit my order...but there is no "Submit Order" button. Puzzling. Anybody care to see if they can replicate the problem?


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Alright long overdue for an update. 

First apparently IRO is no more so I built my XT hubs (respaced and cut down) in to Campy Omega Strada Hardox tubulars. I had previously had 7403 Dura Ace hubs laced to this rims but realized that the proprietary freehub body was shot before I ever had a chance to use them to much. Even if they are not ideal for CX its better than them not getting any use. I basically have everything else to complete the build either in hand or in the mail.

Here is a run down
Frame: Scattante CX
Fork: Ritchey Cross Comp
Shifters: Campy Veloce 10sp
FD: 6500 Ultegra w/ homemade pulley
RD: 6208 Shimano 600 
Crankset/BB: FSA Gossamer 46/39 (Stronglight big ring)/Tiagra 4500 Hollowtech II
Cassette: Sram PG850 11-28
Chain: KMC X8.99
Brakes: Origin 8 Pro Force Cantilever. Probably going to pop some Kool Stop salmons in them. 
Headset: Cane Creek 40
Bars/stem: Pro Vibe 7s aluminum 
Seatpost: Control Tech Team Issue 3a
Saddle: Sella Italia Concor for now
Pedals: 770 XT
Wheels: 750 XT hubset laced to Campy Omega Strada Hardox tubs. Wheelsmith 14g 3x front and rear.
Tires: Vittoria Cross XG 220 tpi

I think that about covers it. I still need Campy inner cables a cable hanger and bar tape. The fork I ordered is an NOS Carbon Cross Comp from around 09 w/o fender eyelets and I am not sure if it has a hole in the crown. If it does I will run a fork mount cable hanger. 

Off to read about gluing cross tubs.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

Snapped a quick picture, please excuse the mess


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

Not bad. 

Now just ride it like ya stole it 'cause ya pretty much did!



M


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

MShaw said:


> Not bad.
> 
> Now just ride it like ya stole it 'cause ya pretty much did!
> 
> ...


I am starting to feel that way. Tires came in today and instead of beeing the 220 tpi pair I was expecting they are actually 290 tpi. Not bad for $41 for the pair. 

A note on the brakes....

Another good day of getting parts in. 


The brakes were a little bit of a gamble. I couldn't find any review of the Origin 8's but I figured that the EuroX/Spooky/Frogglegs style brakes are generally the same and pretty straight forward and these had cartridge pads to boot. When I first got them I noticed one of the springs was way shorter and different shaped than the others and cause a very noticeable difference in tension. Brian from Niagara Cycle Work as well as who ever runs Origin 8's twitter account were extremely awesome. Brian sent out an new, complete small parts packet no questions asked. Origin 8 was also very responsive and checked in to make sure everything was going well. Seriously can't say enough good things about both companies right now.


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

It rides really really nice, the fit is about spot on. I think I have been riding frames a size too small up until about a year ago. 

The shifting works amazing well. I actually got in to a semi heated discussion at a LBS yesterday about the set up, some people just don't like thinking out side the box I guess. That is part of the reason I avoid most of them but I've digressed. 

The clincher wheelset for this bike should be in Lawrence tomorrow along with black tires that are less visually offensive. This silver set will go back to the road bike. I am resisting the urge to glue up the tubulars until it gets closer to the fall. 

White tape may have been a mistake.


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 22, 2010)

I have buddy who has been racing CX for years, and has no qualms on spending... he runs the origin 8's on his carbon redline, scandium redline, redline conquest pro, and his SS redline. He really likes them. Only complaint is with all frogleg type brakes, adjusting toe is hard with the post type pad


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 22, 2010)

yellowjeep said:


> I still need Campy inner cables a cable hanger and bar tape.
> 
> 
> Off to read about gluing cross tubs.


if you have spare shimano cables and some time, you can just file the heads down... then they are free!!!


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

adam_mac84 said:


> I have buddy who has been racing CX for years, and has no qualms on spending... he runs the origin 8's on his carbon redline, scandium redline, redline conquest pro, and his SS redline. He really likes them. Only complaint is with all frogleg type brakes, adjusting toe is hard with the post type pad



Mine have adjustable posts so toe in is no big deal.

About 95% sure these are exactly the same thing 
VO Adjustable Cantilever Shoes w/ VO Squeal Free Pads - Pads, Cables & Parts - Brakes & Parts - Components


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## climbbikesurf (Jun 15, 2007)

The bike looks great!

Glad the shifting worked out too. Like you, mine shifts perfectly and hard to believe it wasn't designed that way. You are right, some people just can't or want to believe it works.


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## CabDoctor (Jun 11, 2005)

So what was the all up cost on this thing?


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## holy cromoly (Nov 9, 2008)

yellowjeep said:


> The shifting works amazing well. I actually got in to a semi heated discussion at a LBS yesterday about the set up, some people just don't like thinking out side the box I guess. That is part of the reason I avoid most of them but I've digressed.


Some bike shop people are victims of their own industry and live their lives confined in the boxes that the industry has delivered to them. 

I say *kudos* to your sense of trying new things and mixing the the Campy and Shimano. If it works, it works :thumbsup:

How's tire clearance on the Scattante? I recall reading a while back when these frames were new that clearance was not as generous.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

adam_mac84 said:


> if you have spare shimano cables and some time, you can just file the heads down... then they are free!!!


It doesn't take a lot of time when you have a bench grinder. DAMHIK

M


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 22, 2010)

MShaw said:


> It doesn't take a lot of time when you have a bench grinder. DAMHIK
> 
> M


haha true... i just do it while i am watching CX races online on sunday morning... learning dutch on sporza lol


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## yellowjeep (Jul 30, 2006)

CabDoctor said:


> So what was the all up cost on this thing?


It totaled to right about 775 which is a little bit higher than I wanted but I am impatient and wanted it done (just in time for sub 0F temps...) and this includes both sets of wheels. So all in all I am still pretty pleased with the cost. 


Tire clearance seems pretty good even with the 35c Maxxis tires which look bigger than that.











Final build with clinchers. I am going to hold off gluing up the tubs until the fall.


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