# Pave Seatpost



## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

So I love my new 2010 Tarmac but this seatpots has me stumped. Has anyone had success getting these to adjust easily? I lubed the cups as directed in the instructions but for the life of me the simply bind and the tils has to be accomplished either by bandging on the ends to move up of down in a random fastion of by attempting to guess at the angle with clamps off (even this is scketchy as the saddle rails will pop out of the groves before they move the cups). 

I discovered an addition issue in the form of its pretty easy to have the cups out of aligment allowing the saddle to be twisted upon tighting the clamps down something I missed after setting what I thought was a good angle. Not good for teh saddle or for my back either.

I could just chuck it and move to a thomson (or other seatpost), just wondering if Im missing some trick that would make it all work.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

As you and I touched on in another thread, I share your frustration adjusting saddle fore/ aft with this post, but from your description I think you're having far more trouble than I did. I found it mildly annoying, but was able to set the correct adjustment.

I wonder if replacing the grease with carbon assembly paste might free up that cup assembly allowing you to set tilt more easily. There wouldn't be any harm in trying, because if it didn't help you could always wipe it clean and start over.

BTW, if you checked Spec's instructions, they mention tapping on the top of the saddle if the cups bind during adjustment, so they're aware of this issue.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> As you and I touched on in another thread, I share your frustration adjusting saddle fore/ aft with this post, but from your description I think you're having far more trouble than I did. I found it mildly annoying, but was able to set the correct adjustment.
> 
> I wonder if replacing the grease with carbon assembly paste might free up that cup assembly allowing you to set tilt more easily. There wouldn't be any harm in trying, because if it didn't help you could always wipe it clean and start over.
> 
> BTW, if you checked Spec's instructions, they mention tapping on the top of the saddle if the cups bind during adjustment, so they're aware of this issue.


I would think carbon assemble past would be worse since its suppose to have light "grit" in it to help seatposts not slip but I may be wrong (having not used carbon assemble paste much) and who knows maybe it would work. I wish tapping would do anything to get the tilt to move at all I have to smack the crap out of it and even then it dosn't move much.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

32and3cross said:


> I would think carbon assemble past would be worse since its suppose to have light "grit" in it to help seatposts not slip but I may be wrong (having not used carbon assemble paste much) and who knows maybe it would work. I wish tapping would do anything to get the tilt to move at all I have to smack the crap out of it and even then it dosn't move much.


You may be starting out with the bolt too tight. Maybe try to back it off a little and try to keep the cups loose (easier said than done, I know).

I follow your logic re: the paste, but I'm thinking the grit would prevent the assembly from locking up. I could be wrong as well, but considering the paste is basically grease with grit in it, there would be no harm in trying.


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## pdainsworth (Jun 6, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> You may be starting out with the bolt too tight. Maybe try to back it off a little and try to keep the cups loose (easier said than done, I know).
> 
> I follow your logic re: the paste, but I'm thinking the grit would prevent the assembly from locking up. I could be wrong as well, but considering the paste is basically grease with grit in it, there would be no harm in trying.


I tried carbon paste on my most recent build with this seatpost, and found that it was more likely to bind. I switched back to grease and it has been fine since, FWIW.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

pdainsworth said:


> I tried carbon paste on my most recent build with this seatpost, and found that it was more likely to bind. I switched back to grease and it has been fine since, FWIW.


Interesting. I wonder if cleaning the 'factory' grease off and reapplying with a better quality helps. When my SO decided my spare Pave post would look good on her bike, I cleaned, then regreased the cups. Had some problem adjusting it, but (as noted previously) not to the extent of the OP.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

Hmm the feedback Im getting is making me think my seatpost is out of spec. 

It is not simply hard to adjust tilt, it is pretty much impossible to to adjust with any accuracy. The only way I go the tilt semi right was to take the clamps off put the saddle rails on the cup grooves and using a large flat head screw driver, in the slot for the clamp bolt, adjust the angle til it was close. Even with no clamping force the cups are very hard to move and have a tendency to jerk and have to be brought into alignment by hand.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

32and3cross said:


> *Hmm the feedback Im getting is making me think my seatpost is out of spec. *
> It is not simply hard to adjust tilt, it is pretty much impossible to to adjust with any accuracy. The only way I go the tilt semi right was to take the clamps off put the saddle rails on the cup grooves and using a large flat head screw driver, in the slot for the clamp bolt, adjust the angle til it was close. Even with no clamping force the cups are very hard to move and have a tendency to jerk and have to be brought into alignment by hand.


Possibly. One other thought I had was to clean the old grease, smooth the cup surfaces with fine emery cloth and reapply a good quality grease. I use Finish Line Teflon, FWIW.

Since I'm suggesting the use of emery cloth and haven't tried it myself, I'll add that a note to Spec customer support may be in order to get their take on this.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> Possibly. One other thought I had was to clean the old grease, smooth the cup surfaces with fine emery cloth and reapply a good quality grease. I use Finish Line Teflon, FWIW.
> 
> Since I'm suggesting the use of emery cloth and haven't tried it myself, I'll add that a note to Spec customer support may be in order to get their take on this.



I regreased it 3 times with different types of grease, leery of sanding it simply because if I have to replace it I don't want questions about if my sanding caused the issue. Thanks


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## pdainsworth (Jun 6, 2004)

32and3cross said:


> I regreased it 3 times with different types of grease, leery of sanding it simply because if I have to replace it I don't want questions about if my sanding caused the issue. Thanks


If I were you, I would go back to the shop from which you purchased the frame and speak to them. I know my Speshy rep would have no problem replacing your seatpost, given the issues you've had. Someone at the shop should be able to contact Specialized's warranty guys, and they will, most likely, send out another post for you.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

pdainsworth said:


> If I were you, I would go back to the shop from which you purchased the frame and speak to them. I know my Speshy rep would have no problem replacing your seatpost, given the issues you've had. Someone at the shop should be able to contact Specialized's warranty guys, and they will, most likely, send out another post for you.


I may try that, unfortunatly the shop I got my bike at is 3 hours round trip (pro deal for the team I ride for) so it will be awhile before that happens.


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## IAmSpecialized (Jul 16, 2008)

Ritchey Carbon WCS 1-bolt. Problem solved.


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

If I wanted to replace the post it would definatly be with a Thomson


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

At this point (and all things considered) a warranty claim is probably the best and safest route to take. Given that, to varying degrees, three out of the three of us have had similar problems with the seat post, I'm skeptical that you're going to be happy with the replacement.

I agree that 'sanding' the area(s) may come into question in the case of a warranty claim, thus my suggestion to contact customer support beforehand. If it works, it may save you a fair amount of trouble.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

IAmSpecialized said:


> Ritchey Carbon WCS 1-bolt. Problem solved.


I like Ritchey products (and this is admittedly off topic), but I have a WCS stem that has an OD of 32mm's and I can't for the life of me find spacers that make a smooth transition from the base. They're all an OD of about 34-35mm's.  

End of rant.


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## IAmSpecialized (Jul 16, 2008)

32and3cross said:


> If I wanted to replace the post it would definatly be with a Thomson


For sure Thompson, if you want totally bombproof. No doubt. I've got a Thompson Elite that has been through Hell and back and is just as trust worthy today as it was 8 years ago when I bought it.


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## rbart4506 (Aug 4, 2004)

IAmSpecialized said:


> For sure Thompson, if you want totally bombproof. No doubt. I've got a Thompson Elite that has been through Hell and back and is just as trust worthy today as it was 8 years ago when I bought it.


Yup! I replace all my Specialized posts with a Thomson Elite....


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## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

PJ352 said:


> At this point (and all things considered) a warranty claim is probably the best and safest route to take. Given that, to varying degrees, three out of the three of us have had similar problems with the seat post, I'm skeptical that you're going to be happy with the replacement.
> 
> I agree that 'sanding' the area(s) may come into question in the case of a warranty claim, thus my suggestion to contact customer support beforehand. If it works, it may save you a fair amount of trouble.


Yeah you maybe right not the first time I have had to sand a new part to get it to work.


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