# Mitis to Orca geometry question



## Dave in Driggs (Aug 16, 2004)

I am considering selling my 04 56cm Mitis Carbon and buying an 05 57cm Orca. After looking at the geometry of both frames it appears on paper that I can make the switch but I wanted to post this to make sure that I am not overlooking something.

04' Size 56 Mitis
Currently using 2cm of spacers under a 100mm stem flipped for 8 deg pos rise. My saddle to bar drop is only 2-3cm.
Seat Tube c-t = 57cm
Top Tube = 56cm
Head Tube = 166mm
Seat Angle = 73.2
Head Angle = 73.2

05' Size 57 Orca
Seat Tube c-t = 57cm
Top Tube = 57cm
Head Tube = 182mm
Seat Angle = 73.2
Head Angle = 73.2

My thinking is that the increase in head tube length is the biggest difference. Will this allow me to eliminate the spacers under the stem? I am hoping that I can still run a 100mm stem even though the top tube is 1cm longer to prevent the handling from getting too twitchy.
Is there anything else I should consider? There are no 57cm Orcas built up locally for me to ride.
Thanks.


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

Dave in Driggs said:


> I am considering selling my 04 56cm Mitis Carbon and buying an 05 57cm Orca. After looking at the geometry of both frames it appears on paper that I can make the switch but I wanted to post this to make sure that I am not overlooking something.
> 
> 04' Size 56 Mitis
> Currently using 2cm of spacers under a 100mm stem flipped for 8 deg pos rise. My saddle to bar drop is only 2-3cm.
> ...



Dave my biggest concern is that you were only running a 100mm stem and now are gaining a cm of TT. The higher head tube will certainly help, but I am a bit worried you may be too stretched out.


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## Dave in Driggs (Aug 16, 2004)

*54cm?*

I would not go smaller- too much of a chance of being cramped or having to use a super long stem, and the headtube would be too low. 

Any chance you could mooch a 110 stem for your current bike to experiment with different effective TT lengths (use a tape meaure to compare with the Orbea chart for the Orca). Also, watch your saddle to bar drop to keep it close. The higher headtube is a major plus for you, but you need to be clear on the TT. Going to a zero offset post is an alternative too, but one I would prefer to avoid. 

FWIW: the runner-up bike for my 2005 race season was a 05 Specialized S-Works Tarmac full carbon bike. I had a hankering for one since I saw the Gerolsteiner team bike photo's, but no campy equipped model and no true 60cm (they jump to a 61cm) made it easy to go Orca. But I noticed they do make a true 56cm bike. 

Check out the geometry chart and details:

http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=9403&JServSessionIdroot=qg29nqokkl.j27012


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## Coolhand (Jul 28, 2002)

*Oops I edited instead of replying- I suck*



Dave in Driggs said:


> I would not go smaller- too much of a chance of being cramped or having to use a super long stem, and the headtube would be too low.
> 
> Any chance you could mooch a 110 stem for your current bike to experiment with different effective TT lengths (use a tape meaure to compare with the Orbea chart for the Orca). Also, watch your saddle to bar drop to keep it close. The higher headtube is a major plus for you, but you need to be clear on the TT. Going to a zero offset post is an alternative too, but one I would prefer to avoid.
> 
> ...


GGGGGGRRRRRR! wrong button!


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## Dave in Driggs (Aug 16, 2004)

*too funny*

I think I can borrow a 110 stem to try so that will help. I guess I also need to figure out what my max saddle to bar drop could be on the 57 Orca and make sure that it is enough. I don't run very much drop now so I am thinking that it will be fine.

I like the looks of the Tarmac too but I am definitely a Campy fan and I really want to work with my local Orbea dealer if at all possible. Thanks.


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