# Caad10 Catastophic Machanical Malfunctioin



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

Bought my caad10 about 5 months ago, it's a 2012. Had it in for its "new bike service" about 1 month ago.

Riding to work this week rounding a corner and stood up to make a traffic-light and BAM, left side crank arm just completely separated from the bike and I did a nose dive into the pavement, cracked my helmet and scraped bad but no broken bones. 

Damage to bike:
-crank arm obviously broken, with some scoring to boot.
-both brake/shifter mechanisms grooved and scraped, one lever is completely shattered.
-handlebar tape on one side torn up
-quick-releases on both wheels ground up on the ends
-fork *may* be slightly bent, could just be the stem askew
-No discernible frame damage, though I could be in denial, I haven't gone over it with a fine-toothed comb yet

My question is, this kind of complete malfunction, on a basically new bike that i haven't fiddled with myself, at all: normal or completely abnormal?

What do I do about it, is this on the manufacturer or shop/assembly? Should this be completely taken care of, or is it on me?


----------



## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

I think it depends on how it broke, pictures speak 1000 words with this one

"left side crank arm just completely separated from the bike" 

If the crank arm broke its self, I would say its a manufacturing issue. But cannondale could easily put that on fsa, or who ever manufactured it for replacement parts since that piece is not cannondale's responsibility.

If some things were not tightened as they should have been and the arm separated in 1 piece, all fingers would point to the shop. 

I believe anything that hit the ground, should and would be replaced, including your fork, because we all know that little disclaimer sticker on it 

Any good shop should work with you pretty well. I know they shop I go to would replace everything and then work out what they need to with the manufactures with out to much of a wait for the costumer. 

Hope it all works out!


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

If it helps, the crank arm itself did not break in two or anything, it "come off", though the innards of the connection do look weird (I don't have a pic with my sorry). Unless an expert can point to something wrong with where the crank arm attaches, I personally feel that it was a problem with whomever assembled that part of the bike.


----------



## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

For your own records, take an ungodly amount of pictures of it, and everything else, from many angles then take it in to the shop. 

If they are at fault, they should replace everything no with damage, which sounds like just about everything. It ay be worth while for them to just give you a new bike...but if you come out with new everything on a scratched (structurally sound) frame, I would still be happy...not as happy though. 

If they refuse to do anything, get a few other opinions from other shops and take them to court, which is why you would need to take pictures BEFORE giving them the bike. 


Also don't be camera-tarded...even if you don't know what you're looking at, You can still take good pictures just think before you take a picture "will I be able to see this part/piece/damage in relation to the other pictures". And remember to take a few pictures of your whole bike. 

Of course...that is assuming the shop is at fault and the shop is unwilling to cooperate. Also, it could be a little different in other countries, I am in USA.


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

Took a ton of pictures, taking it in this afternoon (wife finally back from LA so I have some time).


----------



## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

Post your pics. 

We are happy to give as many unsolicited and unqualified opinions as you may want. Then, we'll give you a few more..............

On a serious side.
Glad to hear you did not get really hurt. If that had happened on a decent at 30 mph.......ouch.


----------



## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

ziscwg said:


> Post your pics.
> 
> We are happy to give as many unsolicited and unqualified opinions as you may want. Then, we'll give you a few more..............
> 
> ...



Humm, your post count could be too low to post pics. If so, just reply here a few times talking about the weather, your kids, and of course, your dog. If you have a Corgi, head over to "The Lounge" (a subforum here) and post your brains out there.


----------



## Ruby13 (Aug 11, 2011)

You didn't mention how many miles you had on the cadd 10. Normally a shop will schedule a follow-up visit to check the bike after about 100 miles or so. With my Synapse I also had a crank that loosened up but it was at about 1000 miles. OEM crank on the Synapse 6 was crap and I replaced with all SRAM Force.


----------



## tlg (May 11, 2011)

Which year and model CAAD10 do you have? The CAAD10 105 has an FSA Gossamer crank. 
Which has a recall for.... falling off.
Gossamer BB30 Recall Notice


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

1) It's a 2012 CAAD 3, FSA SL-K LIGHT CARBON hollow carbon crank arm fell off

2) Bought the bike in Oct, had it in for the follow-up service last month-ish.

3) Took the bike in, they said they would take some time to inspect it, apparently they have a call into FSA about the crank arm but the mech said it "looked funny" on first glance. Asked if it was loose prior to falling off, which it was not.


----------



## tlg (May 11, 2011)

not2typical said:


> 1) It's a 2012 CAAD 3, FSA SL-K LIGHT CARBON hollow carbon crank arm fell off
> 
> 2) Bought the bike in Oct, had it in for the follow-up service last month-ish.
> 
> 3) Took the bike in, they said they would take some time to inspect it, apparently they have a call into FSA about the crank arm but the mech said it "looked funny" on first glance.


I'm sure it'll be covered (it better be) under warranty. Crank arms don't just fall off unless it's a mfg or installation error.



> Asked if it was loose prior to falling off, which it was not.


It may have been. Just not enough that you noticed.


----------



## Winters (Dec 4, 2011)

tlg said:


> I'm sure it'll be covered (it better be) under warranty. Crank arms don't just fall off unless it's a mfg or installation error.
> 
> It may have been. Just not enough that you noticed.


...
per that FSA recall link - "... the bolt shoulder on the non-drive Gossamer BB30 series crankarms can crack and break if the installer exceeds the recommended torque specification while tightening the crankbolt. If the bolt shoulder is cracked or damaged in any way, *the crank arm can potentially loosen, allowing the rider to lose control and fall.* "
.
.
Sounds like you proved them right .... The shop should handle fixing it and you should document everything, just in case.

Years ago I had a kinda similiar, liability related, recall issue. I naively turned everything over to the Manufacturer's rep. Once they had the evidence in their hands, Carnation Milk denied everything.
.
.... that was shortly after Nest;e's acquired Carnation and I don't place any responsibility on Nestle's, rather it was the old school Carnation folks, in my opinion.


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

According to the shop, FSA asserts that the crank arm bolt loosened to the point that there were not enough threads to hold it in and it just came out... and that I should have definitely felt the action in the crank differ greatly (being that loose). FSA maintains this was not a warranty issue and they will not cover anything. I maintain I felt no difference in my crank and went from having a blast biking on my fairly new bike, to face-planting in the middle of an intersection with my crank arm bouncing down the road next to me.

According to my shop, they are willing to replace everything that was broken and do all the labor for free on everything except the shattered brake lever, which will apparently cost $169 to replace. I am not clear on if this covers the cosmetic damage to several mechanical parts including the plate on both levers. I told them I needed a day or two to process the new information. 

Thoughts? Suggestions? Feedback?


----------



## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

I would ask those questions to the lbs in stead of speculating on the internet hoping for answers. I would also question why they left out the break lever.if the dealer says they are replacing everything except the frame, assuming its structurally sound, I would live with it, because all fingers are basically po,inting to them; either they tightened it to much or it was not tightened enough. 


I would also send FSA a note questioning how they came to tthat conclusion with out seeing the bike them selves...all fingers kind of still point to the dealer in my book.


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

I am asking here, and in many other places, because I'm not an expert in this, and because what good does asking the lbs do if they are at fault? Their stated positions is they are not responsible, but are replacing "nearly" everything out of the goodness of their heart.

My main concern - putting the same mechanism back on my bike, that has already failed like this seems to be a horrible idea. All my research has shown that FSA cranks are prone to failure, and I'm not sure why Cannondale would put them on their bikes at this point.


----------



## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

Arent the cranks threaded in such a way to prevent them from getting loose? I have been told you dont have to tighten them much because spinning in general will keep them loose. I also think you would notice them coming out 1/4 inch, your pedaling motion would be altered. Keep at it, squeeky wheel gets the grease.


----------



## Team Sarcasm (Oct 22, 2012)

not2typical said:


> I am asking here, and in many other places, because I'm not an expert in this, and because what good does asking the lbs do if they are at fault? Their stated positions is they are not responsible, but are replacing "nearly" everything out of the goodness of their heart.
> 
> My main concern - putting the same mechanism back on my bike, that has already failed like this seems to be a horrible idea. All my research has shown that FSA cranks are prone to failure, and I'm not sure why Cannondale would put them on their bikes at this point.


Sorry I should have worded my post better. I meant "asking the internet" as in we can not speak for the shop, asking them is the best starting point. I would get other shops opinions as well if you don't like what your lbs is telling you. And they say its "out of the goodness of their hearts" but its really just fancy wording covering up the possibility of a fault. 

My lbs tells me they can take a little off the top every time i but something  but I am grateful for it  

Ask them in stead of getting fsa cranks again they can give you a credit toward upgraded cranks, and the credit being the cost of the fsa ones.


----------



## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

not2typical said:


> I am asking here, and in many other places, because I'm not an expert in this, and because what good does asking the lbs do if they are at fault? Their stated positions is they are not responsible, but are replacing "nearly" everything out of the goodness of their heart.
> 
> My main concern - putting the same mechanism back on my bike, that has already failed like this seems to be a horrible idea. All my research has shown that FSA cranks are prone to failure, and I'm not sure why Cannondale would put them on their bikes at this point.


Sorry to hear about your issue and I'm glad you're ok relatively speaking. There was a recall on the FSA Gossamer cranks a while ago but I'm not aware of any on the SL-K models. It may very well be that yours was defective from the start. It's hard to tell what happened without seeing the pictures. It's interesting that the shop is replacing all the parts while FSA said it's not at fault. It's possible that the mechanic over-torqued the bolt during the last check-up but that would most likely be difficult to prove. I'm guessing the shop won't do anything about cosmetic issues. They'll probably just fix the shifter so it works.


----------



## macca33 (Oct 24, 2012)

There is definitely an issue with material, or labour in this case IMO. Either the crank / bolt was faulty, or, it was improperly installed. I recently removed to re-grease the FSA SL-K cranks / BB on my CAAD10 and the crank arm was definitely a 'puller' job to remove - I know it can be self-extracted, but I prefer to use a puller. It did not simply slide off the spindle.

I hope you get it sorted out and get the bike back to where it was pre-crash.

cheers


----------



## not2typical (Sep 21, 2012)

Nope...

shop replacing everything except the shifter which is costing me $200. Putting all the faulty parts back on for no charge and just got the invoice which actually charges me for everything except labor, which is not what we discussed. Getting pretty much hosed all around.

wrote to Cannondale, who never replied at all. Pretty pissed off.


----------



## FUFB (May 5, 2013)

not2typical said:


> Nope...
> 
> shop replacing everything except the shifter which is costing me $200. Putting all the faulty parts back on for no charge and just got the invoice which actually charges me for everything except labor, which is not what we discussed. Getting pretty much hosed all around.
> 
> wrote to Cannondale, who never replied at all. Pretty pissed off.


I'm sorry to hear about your crash, but I'm glad you didn't get seriously hurt.

Just remember, if your LBS doesn't have your back, most likely your credit card will have it.

Did the shop put the bike together, or make modifications, prior to selling it to you? Or did they simply resell a factory bike?


----------



## josephr (Jun 17, 2010)

just bought as new Synapse (aluminum) with the 105 package...has the Gossamer crank...not interested in being someone's legal experiment and just saw this thread. I've only had it a couple of months, but good deals on 105 cranks out there...what's the internet's thoughts? suck it up and replace the BB and crank?


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

josephr said:


> suck it up and replace the BB and crank?


No real need to immediately replace it. Check the crank bolt for tightness every so often (a 10-second procedure) and you're good to go. Most experienced riders do that with any crank, be that a low-end or a top-of-the-line model.


----------



## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

josephr said:


> just bought as new Synapse (aluminum) with the 105 package...has the Gossamer crank...not interested in being someone's legal experiment and just saw this thread. I've only had it a couple of months, but good deals on 105 cranks out there...what's the internet's thoughts? suck it up and replace the BB and crank?


My understanding is that it was a specific batch of Gossamer cranks that had the problem. They were produced around 2009 and 2010, if I recall. If you search this forum for "Gossamer recall", you should be able to find a thread with recall info in it. It tells you what the affected serial number ranges are. Your crank is most likely safe.


----------



## josephr (Jun 17, 2010)

...I've been checking it every few rides...maybe not every ride.  

thanks!


----------

