# Diamondback Century 1 vs Diamondback Century 2



## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

I'm really liking the Century line from Diamondback and I want to purchase either the Century 1 or Century 2. 

I'm fully aware that the Century 2 is going to give me some better components but *I've seen the Century 1 go for as low as $450* *down from it's standard price of $700-$750.* That's an incredible steal if you ask me. I love the look, color, and feel of this bike. 

The Century 2 on the other hand, has a pretty hefty price tag of $900 and I think the lowest I've seen it go is around $800. The color is not my favorite but that's my only stride with this bike. 

*I don't know much about specs but from my understanding the Century 2's Shimano 105 line and the fact that it has 10 speeds in the back instead of Century 1's 8 speeds is what stands out the most in comparison. Any insight would help tremendously. *

*Century 1 specs: 

**BIKE SPECS*



Sizes50cm/XS 52cm/SM 54cm/MD 56cm/LRG 58cm/XL 60cm/XXLFrameDBR Custom Butted 7005 Alloy EPG Enhanced Performance Geometry Frame, Formed Top TubeForkDBR Podium Performance Alloy, Alloy SteererRear ShockN/ACranksFSA Tempo Compact, 50,34tBottom BracketSealed CartridgeF. DerailleurShimano FD2300, 31.8R. Derailleur*Shimano Sora 8spd*Shifter*Shimano 2300 Dual Control 8spd*Brake Levers*Shimano 2300 Dual Control 8spd*BrakesTektro R312A dual pivotCassetteShimano HG50 8spd (12-25t)Rims28h frt / 28h rear Equation SETiresMichelin Dynamic Sport 700x23cPedalsWellgo Road w/Toe Clip and StrapHandlebarDBR Drop Bar Road 31.8StemDBR 3D forged, +/-7 degree, 31.8SeatpostDBR Performance Post, Alloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmSeatDBR Performance RoadHeadsetIntegrated "Cane Creek" Size Drop-in ACB 1 1/8"ColorsSilverChainKMC-Z82Hubset(F) 28h Alloy QR (R) 28h Alloy QR CassetteSpokesBlack 14g Stainless SteelGripsDBR Race tape w/GelExtrasOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mountsNoteSpecifications Subject to Change

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Century 2 specs: 

**BIKE SPECS*



Sizes50cm/XS 52cm/SM 54cm/MD 56cm/LRG 58cm/XL 60cm/XXLFrameDBR Custom Butted 7005 Alloy EPG Enhanced Performance Geometry Frame, TAPER headtube, Formed Top Tube, w/Intgrated HeadtubeForkDB Road Podium Performance Carbon, w/Magnesium Crown and Tapered 1.5 Alloy SteererRear ShockN/ACranksFSA Omega Compact BB30 50,34tBottom BracketSealed CartridgeF. Derailleur*Shimano 105, 31.8*R. Derailleur*Shimano 105 10spd*Shifter*Shimano 105 Dual Control 10spd*Brake Levers*Shimano 105 Dual Control 10spd*BrakesTektro R540 dual pivotCassetteShimano CS-4600 Tiagra 10spd (12-30t)Rims20h frt / 24h rear EQUATION RTiresMichelin Dynamic Sport 700x25cPedalstest rideHandlebarDBR Drop Bar Road 31.8StemDBR 3D forged, +/-7 degree, 31.8SeatpostDBR Performance Post, Alloy Micro Adjust 27.2mmSeatDBR Performance RoadHeadsetIntegrated "Cane Creek" Size Drop-in ACB 1 1/8"ColorsBlueChainFSA CN910 10spdHubset(F) 20h Alloy QR (R) 24h Alloy Cassette QRSpokesWhite 14g Stainless Steel BladedGripsDBR Race tape w/GelExtrasOwner’s manual, Chainstay Protector, Clear Coat, H20 bottle mountsNoteSpecifications Subject to Change

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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

Is this your first road bike? If so (and maybe even if not) by the one you like to look at and don't spend a lot. Get yourself in good form on the less expensive bike. You will have money to spend on your clothing, shoes, and helmet and you will be able to start saving for the next one.

Me personally as someone who has been riding for a long time, I'd spring for the 105 on the 2 and I absolutely hate gray bikes. But that's me. I would probably have a hard time springing for the more expensive ride if I was new to the sport. My wife would certainly frown about it.

One more thing whatever you get make sure it is the right size.


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

Winn said:


> Is this your first road bike? If so (and maybe even if not) by the one you like to look at and don't spend a lot. Get yourself in good form on the less expensive bike. You will have money to spend on your clothing, shoes, and helmet and you will be able to start saving for the next one.
> 
> Me personally as someone who has been riding for a long time, I'd spring for the 105 on the 2 and I absolutely hate gray bikes. But that's me. I would probably have a hard time springing for the more expensive ride if I was new to the sport. My wife would certainly frown about it.
> 
> One more thing whatever you get make sure it is the right size.


It would be my first "real" road bike as my current bike is more of a commuter type 3 size road bike that I've been using for training and to see if road cycling was for me, which I now know it is. 

I just hate the idea of spending over $700 on a bike...in fact it urks me. I don't race, or plan to, I just ride to stay in shape and exercise but I do like to push it and go fast and beat previous records and all that. 

I've been told the $450 for the Century 1 is a killer deal, I just have to hope and pray Amazon stocks up the 52cm size again at that same price. But I am not completely opposed to going more expensive if the Shimano 105 set is REALLY worth it, along with the 10 speed cassette.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

I have put a lot of miles on cheap components they will work ok. The better stuff is better, is it REALLY better? Yes I think it is. Is it $400 better? That's up to you. Can you find a bike shop you can ride the bikes or bikes with the same components? Once you ride them you can decide better for yourself than we can say.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Not wanting to spend more than $700 on a road bike is going to be a real challenge... and that's not to say that you shouldn't get the eight speed. One difference between a 2300 group and a 105 group is going to be longevity, the 105 *should* handle more miles and be built with a little more durability... but, enough that it actually matters? Probably not. In fact, the quality between the two is likely about the same (but it would vary from one component to another one). What I'm trying to say is that it isn't as simple as 2300 vs 105, I'd have to look up the technical drawings of each piece to determine where 105 would really be an advantage.

I think that the sweet spot for a road bike (without being ultra-light or race-oriented, or anything like that) is from around $900 to $1200. I would, personally, put more value in a nice set of wheels and a well made frame over the component group. On that metric, the two bikes are equal in my opinion. Get the cheaper bike, you can always upgrade later (there will be plenty of guys who buy 105 and think that they need Ultegra or DA and will be selling those barely used parts on ebay for a bargain price).


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

Winn said:


> I have put a lot of miles on cheap components they will work ok. The better stuff is better, is it REALLY better? Yes I think it is. Is it $400 better? That's up to you. Can you find a bike shop you can ride the bikes or bikes with the same components? Once you ride them you can decide better for yourself than we can say.


Unfortunately none of the shops in my area had any in stock. I guess I could ride bikes with the same components, but to be honest I'm a novice and I doubt I'd be able to tell much of a difference.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

Just another thought. If you are certain of your sizing and since you seem to be comfortable buying online and not from a shop, have you considered used. I bought a nice $1200 bike for $545 including shipping on eBay this year and got exactly what I wanted with much nicer components than you would normally get on a new $500 bike. It had less than 100 miles on it and it was hard to tell it was used at all. Great deals can also be found on Craigslist if you look a little while. You do need some basic knowledge but it seems like you might have that already. I have only ever bought one bike new and have put 1000's of miles on used bikes with no issues at all. Anyway good luck with your search.


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

headloss said:


> Not wanting to spend more than $700 on a road bike is going to be a real challenge... and that's not to say that you shouldn't get the eight speed. One difference between a 2300 group and a 105 group is going to be longevity, the 105 *should* handle more miles and be built with a little more durability... but, enough that it actually matters? Probably not. In fact, the quality between the two is likely about the same (but it would vary from one component to another one). What I'm trying to say is that it isn't as simple as 2300 vs 105, I'd have to look up the technical drawings of each piece to determine where 105 would really be an advantage.
> 
> I think that the sweet spot for a road bike (without being ultra-light or race-oriented, or anything like that) is from around $900 to $1200. I would, personally, put more value in a nice set of wheels and a well made frame over the component group. On that metric, the two bikes are equal in my opinion. Get the cheaper bike, you can always upgrade later (there will be plenty of guys who buy 105 and think that they need Ultegra or DA and will be selling those barely used parts on ebay for a bargain price).


Very helpful post, thanks. Yeah I don't know, just the thought of paying as much money for a bike that you can get a cheap used car for to me is a little crazy but maybe down the line I'll be more inclined to spend big bucks.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

FollowTheTrainCJ said:


> Unfortunately none of the shops in my area had any in stock. I guess I could ride bikes with the same components, but to be honest I'm a novice and I doubt I'd be able to tell much of a difference.


Definitely go for the cheaper one. See if you can wear it out. I bet you'll be getting a new bike for other reasons before you do.


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

Winn said:


> Just another thought. If you are certain of your sizing and since you seem to be comfortable buying online and not from a shop, have you considered used. I bought a nice $1200 bike for $545 including shipping on eBay this year and got exactly what I wanted with much nicer components than you would normally get on a new $500 bike. It had less than 100 miles on it and it was hard to tell it was used at all. Great deals can also be found on Craigslist if you look a little while. You do need some basic knowledge but it seems like you might have that already. I have only ever bought one bike new and have put 1000's of miles on used bikes with no issues at all. Anyway good luck with your search.


This is something I've considered, but I don't consider myself knowledgeable enough to distinguish different brands and parts to buy used. Plus I know that the Diamondback 52cm fits me well, but I don't know what size I am on other brands. 

I've been checking CL lately but I didn't see anything that interested me. I'll take a look at eBay but I'm almost certain I'll be getting the Century 1 or 2.


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

Winn said:


> Definitely go for the cheaper one. See if you can wear it out. I bet you'll be getting a new bike for other reasons before you do.


Thanks.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

The used car analogy is a good one (maybe economy car would be a better analogy)... if you would be content with a used car (as is) then a lower spec-ed bike would be appropriate for you.

I could buy a cheap used car... and in no time at all, I'd be updating the brake calipers and pads, swapping out the exhaust, lowering the stance about an inch, putting on fancy aftermarket german springs, swapping the struts for something performance oriented... and that's just the initial changes. I'd eventually port the heads, change the air intake, mess with a computer and the fuel injection, maybe supercharge, etc. The point is, I wouldn't just leave it alone. In fact, I'd change so much just as a matter of who I am (and knowing what I like) that it would never make sense for me to even bother buying a new car because I'd want to change everything right off the bat (unless, of course, I bought a performance car to begin with... and even then). It makes sense for me to just buy a frame and build it up myself  But to stick with the car analogy:

So, 2300 is like a Ford Focus.
105 is like a midsized sedan with a little pep under the hood but still meant to carry family around... Nissan Maxima maybe. Maybe even something like a Mustang although that's starting to push into the next category... in any case, it's the working man's group, good for the tinkerer who wants a little more under the hood but still willing to compromise.
Ultegra is like a Vette, built for sportiness. As with the mustang example above, there is a little overlap... lots of people mix 105 and Ultegra parts.
Dura Ace is the limited edition Vette, or maybe a Dodge Viper.

You buy based on need. There's no shame in 2300. There is nothing inherently wrong with it. It gets you where you need to go without losing any of the fun that is inherent in riding our bicycles! If you are happy driving a Civic or Focus, you won't feel bad that you didn't buy the Mustang.

Not to mention, the only thing holding you back... is you. Someone riding a 2300 group could easily toast someone riding a higher group... the parts don't define the rider.


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## FollowTheTrainCJ (Jun 26, 2014)

So it looks like they completely ran out of the 52cm Century 1 and won't be stocking anymore, so that's out of the question. I called Diamondback and they said this is around the time where their 2014 models are completely sold out and whatever is there is there. 

I think I'm going to end up getting the DB Century 2 once the price drops down with the 2015 models coming out, which they said might be sometime around September. I've grown on to the blue color now and like it a lot, plus the Shimano 105 components should be great addition. I've seen it go down as low as $770 down from the list price of $1,200 and hoping I can find a deal like that on my size. Right now they're selling at $900


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