# Carbon Fiber vs. Repair Stand. What Do You Use



## Guppie58 (Oct 24, 2006)

I bought a new Felt AR-4 and it's all aero tubes. I currently have Ultimate Stand and used that fine with my S-works (road and mtb) carbon frames. However this new road bike is different and it has warnings all over about not putting in a work stand (or a trainer). 

I see the PRS-20 (both Nashbar and Performance have their version). Anybody using this? Can you wrench on it pretty good (does it wobble)?


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

I have a Spin Doctor Pro G3 Work Stand(Performance $169.99). Not my first choice, but it was given to me as a gift. I use the seat post when working on my carbon bike. If you are wrenching hard it will shake. Otherwise-no problems.


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## spookyload (Jan 30, 2004)

I always clamp on to seatposts when working on my bike. Unless it is steel, I wouldn't clamp on to any tube of a frame. A seatpost is always cheaper to replace than a frame. Another option would be the ones that you remove the front wheel and it clamps onto the fork and supports the bottom bracket. Here is a park variety of it.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PB-7-Repair-Truing/dp/B000NPIUP4


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## robpar (Jan 26, 2008)

Guppie58 said:


> I bought a new Felt AR-4 and it's all aero tubes. I currently have Ultimate Stand and used that fine with my S-works (road and mtb) carbon frames. However this new road bike is different and it has warnings all over about not putting in a work stand (or a trainer).
> 
> I see the PRS-20 (both Nashbar and Performance have their version). Anybody using this? Can you wrench on it pretty good (does it wobble)?


I've had carbon frames and never had a problem clamping tube frames ( I know; you are not supposed to) You just have to be careful, use just enough clamping force to "hold the bike" and not try clamp "as hard you can". I close the clamp with the frame still being a little loose and then tighten with the knob. Most of the torque specs on almost all the components are fairly light, so no use to "wrench pretty good". Also, depending on which part of the bike you're working on, it's easier to "balance the bike" if you support it on the most convenient tube. The only time I use the seat post as a clamping location is when I'm working on the bottom bracket. I even used to put an AL seat post every time I worked on my bikes but it was a PITA...


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## SlowJoeCrow (Sep 3, 2009)

I use a Park PCS-10 and usually clamp the seatposts. The only carbon frame right now is my wife's roadbike, which I also clamp by the seatpost after exchanging its carbon post for a sacrificial aluminum post.This is very solid for everything I do, and has reasonable access. Of course if your frame has seat mast instead of a conventional post, all bets are off and you need one of the "race" stands that support the bike by the front dropouts and bottom bracket.


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## Guppie58 (Oct 24, 2006)

I have an aero seat post (all the tubes are aero) so I can't use that nor can I put in a cheap seat post to use given the shape of tube. 

I never had an issue until I got the felt. They had little stickers all over it (on chainstay, top tube, seat post, etc) stating not to use bike holder or trainer. Now I'm kinda freaked out about putting it in the stand.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I'm in the same spot, Guppie. My Giant Defy Advanced doesn't have a round tube anywhere. The top tube tapers off toward the seat tube and that's where I clamp it. I have and old Park stand and the clamp squeezes it pretty tightly, but I've had no problems so far.


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

i have carbon seat posts on both my MTB and my road bike, i clamp it on my park stand using enough force to hold it in place for anything i've had to do on it. 

Keep in mind the pressures used by the stand to clamp the post is spread out much more so than the seatpost collar that is also using lots of pressure to clamp the seatpost.


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## calle_betis (Jun 30, 2006)

any other ideas for a guy looking to buy a repair stand for a carbon fiber bike? I just bought a Colnago CLX and need a stand which will not jeopardize the integrity of the CF.









what have you CF owners done for a repair stand. presently, I'm using the bike rack on the back of my Jeep Wrangler. TIA


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

use any bike stand you want

what do you think the seatpost collar is doing to your seatpost? its clamping it hard, to support your 150+lb weight. 

Hanging your bike and putting 50 lbs of downward torque on it won't affect the carbon seatpost.


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## been200mph (May 28, 2004)

skyliner1004 said:


> use any bike stand you want
> 
> what do you think the seatpost collar is doing to your seatpost? its clamping it hard, to support your 150+lb weight.
> 
> Hanging your bike and putting 50 lbs of downward torque on it won't affect the carbon seatpost.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

I clamp CF bikes in the stand all day long at work via the seat post. The only bike I can't get to secure properly are TT bikes with their aero seat posts. With those I'll turn the clamp on the stand horizontal, but do not apply any force. If I have to do any work that requires excessive pushing/pulling on the TT bikes, e.g. bottom bracket, I place the bike on the floor.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

I retrofitted my old Park floor stand with a Park 100-3D clamp. It works fine on every seat post I have from the Easton EC70s to the aero post on my Orbea Ora. I don't clamp any frame tubes on any of my bikes. A mechanic at my LBS almost ruined a frame made from Deda U-107 aluminum that I had taken in to have the BB faced when he clamped the seattube in an old Park clamp. Dented the tube, but still usable.


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## vandalbob (Dec 13, 2001)

I sometimes clamp the seatpost. Usually I put the saddle on top of the clamp and use that to support the bike. Saw it in the LBS and works great for non high-torque work.


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## MikesChevelle (Jun 12, 2010)

I usually just drill a hole through the frame, and bolt it to a steel flag pole.


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## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

PRS-20 or equivalent is the correct choice. No clamping whatsoever needed and it's quite stable.


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## eyezlee (Nov 28, 2009)

pmt said:


> PRS-20 or equivalent is the correct choice. No clamping whatsoever needed and it's quite stable.


Nice workstand. Any issues where you need the front wheel attached and have to turn the bike around?


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## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

eyezlee said:


> Nice workstand. Any issues where you need the front wheel attached and have to turn the bike around?


The only time I needed to do that was when replacing the front brake; the repair stand has a skewer to hold via the rear dropouts, so I just popped the rear wheel out. Took all of ten seconds.


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## paul l (Aug 3, 2009)

I bought a Tacx Spider T3050 for the same cautious no-clamping approach. IT uses a QR on the forks and rests the BB without clamping. It will also swivel so it's easy to store, easy to use without walking round the bike and ideal for your needs.

You don't have to take the rear wheel out BTW, I was giving the bike a complete clean on this occasion










Note that my MTB is too long in the wheelbase to fit so bear in mind the Tacx really will only suit your carbon road frame. I have carried out various things now on my carbon and steel bikes. Complete change of BB and chainset on one, fit new brake pads front and rear, chainline and gear adjustments, new bar tape and gel.

Another alternative suitable for many jobs is to use a turbo trainer if you get something like an Elite Fluid or similar. This is because the bike is held firm yet the rear wheel is clear of the roller pad. It's not a cheaper approach and you don't work at the same convenient height but it gives you another option.


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*Great Stand*



pmt said:


> PRS-20 or equivalent is the correct choice. No clamping whatsoever needed and it's quite stable.


Have one of these and both my son and I use it to wrench on multiple bikes. From minor tune ups and cleaning to complete bike builds. You can do nearly anything on this stand that you can on other styles with no worry about clamping fragile parts.

Not an issue for front wheel work as it allows you to clamp the rear dropouts.

I do find it a bit high for wrapping bars but it does hold the bar stable when wrapping.


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## PissedOffCil (Jan 3, 2008)

I'm using a Park PCS-4 and have clamped the toptube on my Kuota Ksano on several occasions when stripping it bare until I put the seatpost back on. At that point I clamp on the carbon seatpost but not too tight.

There are some thinner carbon frames than the Ksano out there but I'd go with the following rule : If you can push on the frame with your fingers and see it move don't clamp it, else just be careful.


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## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

Guppie58 said:


> I bought a new Felt AR-4 and it's all aero tubes. I currently have Ultimate Stand and used that fine with my S-works (road and mtb) carbon frames. However this new road bike is different and it has warnings all over about not putting in a work stand (or a trainer).


No trainer either????? Is it even safe to ride on the road? I don't get the trainer part. The clamping force in the the wheel axle, not the frame. Doesn't a quick release put the same pressure on the frame?


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## calle_betis (Jun 30, 2006)

frdfandc said:


> I clamp CF bikes in the stand all day long at work via the seat post. The only bike I can't get to secure properly are TT bikes with their aero seat posts. With those I'll turn the clamp on the stand horizontal, but do not apply any force. If I have to do any work that requires excessive pushing/pulling on the TT bikes, e.g. bottom bracket, I place the bike on the floor.


My bike as an aero seatpost, which was the reason for my Q.

THX


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## mtbbmet (Apr 2, 2005)

calle_betis said:


> any other ideas for a guy looking to buy a repair stand for a carbon fiber bike? I just bought a Colnago CLX and need a stand which will not jeopardize the integrity of the CF.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


A kid came into the shop last month with a cracked top tube on his CLX from some hack mechanic clamping it in a stand. It can and does happen. I have a PRS-20. Highly recomend it.


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## OldBiker (Feb 9, 2008)

If you are lucky enough to have a cellar with wooden beams put a couple of hooks in the beams. Then suspend the bike with ropes from the back of the seat and the handlebar stem. I have worked on bikes for 40 years doing this and have never needed a stand.


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## Zipp0 (Aug 19, 2008)

OldBiker said:


> If you are lucky enough to have a cellar with wooden beams put a couple of hooks in the beams. Then suspend the bike with ropes from the back of the seat and the handlebar stem. I have worked on bikes for 40 years doing this and have never needed a stand.


Almost exactly what I do, except I run the back rope under the top tube just in front of the seat post. I have the ropes there with permanent loops tied in, so I can hang up the bike in seconds and get to work.


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