# Woman New to Road Biking Confused on Fit



## bikegirl83

Hello! I'm very interested in hearing your opinions on bike fit for women... specifically for my sizing.

I've spent the last few weekends trying out a variety of road bikes to get a feel for what I would enjoy riding. My biking history is limited to using a very upright and probably ill-fitting Diamondback hybrid as a commuter bike for a few months. I want to get into cycling for fitness... I'm thinking 10-50 mile rides (the longest I've done before was 18 miles) but wouldn't mind purchasing a bike with room to grow beyond that. Heck, I'd love to do a century one day.

I can afford to spend up to about $2000 on a bike -- if it makes sense to spend that much. I'm also perfectly happy spending less than $1000 if I find a bike that fits me and makes sense in this price range.

What I'm very confused about is the WSD models versus the regular, unisex/men's models.

I'm short. 5'3.5 to be exact. My inseam is 79cm, says the bike store. I have a rather long torso compared to my legs. But I still have smallish hands and such. My confusion stems from not understanding the proper feel for being stretched out on a road bike that's not upright versus being too stretched out. I know everything can be adjusted to some extent once you buy a bike, but I'd like to get one where my measurements hit the middle of what's adjustable, as this sounds to be the recommended way to buy a bike.

I've been told two different ways to judge reach on a bike from two different bike stores...

1) put your elbow on the tip of the seat and the tips of your fingers should fall just over the stem post

2) measure your arm length from shoulder to fingertips and then use a ruler to see where the length hits on the bike from the seat back to the handlebars. It shouldn't be further out or in then approximately where the bars are.

Both of these fitting techniques get different results in terms of telling me if a bike fits or not.

Btw, these are some of the models I'm looking at...

Specialized Dolce Elite (or Ruby Elite / Expert). In this model I'm looking at the 51cm version. Legs seem ok on this but feel a little crunched for space for my arms. (there is a $2299 '09 Ruby Expert Compact at a nearby store, or I could get the $1000 Dolce Elite in the same sizing.)

Cannondale Carbon Six 5 2009 model -- a men's bike in 50cm, which I thought fit pretty well. However, I worry the reach is too far and I'll notice this only after I buy the bike and start riding for a while. It's on sale at the same store near me for $1500. Fully carbon and Shimano 105 parts. Seems like a great bike, but it's not WSD, and I also know Cannondale isn't necessarily the go-to brand for full carbon.

Bianchi Imola 49cm -- a men's bike for $1200. Felt pretty good in terms of sizing. I'm not sure I loved the steel (felt a little too "stable" and a bit like my hybrid when it came to turning) though obviously a good bike otherwise.

I've been to about 6 stores now and a good half of them eventually advise me to buy a men's model and the other half think I should definitely go with the Specialized WSD. 

What do you think? Am I going to regret buying a "men's" bike later on? Are any of the bikes above the clear choice for a good first bike that I can grow with in the coming years? Any other models you recommend I look at?


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## Sojourneyman

Reach is really the most variable part of a cycling fit, it's just whatever feels the most comfortable for you. Once you've got proper saddle height and fore/aft positioning, then reach can be whatever you'd reasonably like it to be. And it can be adjusted a lot with changing up stem length and angle. 

I don't think there's any difference between a womens bike and a mens bike other than some bit of marketing. Women's bikes might come with smaller width handlebars and a compact crankset, but I can't think of much else that'd be different. Admittedly this is something which I know not much about. 

As well, I haven't heard of either of your two methods for measuring bike reach.


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## frpax

While there may be some slight differences in WSD models, I think it's largely a marketing ploy. Women bought & raced on the same bikes as men for years (if not decades), without any issues that I can recall.

Just make sure you get one that fits you.

I have heard of those reach methods you mention, but not for a long time. But there is more to fitting a bike than that. WAY more. 

I think that you'd benefit from a compact style of frame, such as the Dolce. If you feel cramped with the 51cm, try a 53cm...


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## PJ352

At 5'3.5" and with an inseam of 79cm's, you aren't short legs/ long torso, which 'on paper' at least leads me to believe a WSD design would benefit you.

Some general info... Part of the problem with WSD bikes is that they're inappropriately named, giving the impression that they're suited for women only. They're marketed that way, but shouldn't be, because there are also men that have proportions that may benefit for WSD geometry (long legs/ short torso). I think Marin calls it Natural Fit. Generally speaking, WSD designs have a shorter reach than their comparably sized counterparts and getting your reach requirements met, whether it be on a standard or WSD model, is the goal. And you're right, getting fit close right out of the box (as we say) is ideal, because all that will be left are minor adjustments (tweaks) to fit from there. 

I think some of your confusion stems from the LBS's you're visiting. Forget those methods of measuring and find a reputable LBS with an experienced fitter. It's fine to attempt to be an educated consumer, but it's ultimately the fitters job to get your requirements met. I'm not saying none of the shops you visited can accomplish that, I'm simply offering how this process should work.

We all have price ranges, but I'd caution you against letting current brand/ model sale prices influence your decision. Visit (or revisit) LBS's, focusing first on fit, because most models come with different component levels, so a certain brand's $800 model is going to have essentially the same frame (thus geometry) as their $1500 model and will fit the same.

Lastly, IMO you're looking at all good brands/ models that you can grow with, so the one that fits best should be the top contender. As far as the 49cm steel Imola is concerned (again, 'on paper') I think it has possibilities for you. Bianchi's reach tends to be shorter than some others and steel (IMO) offers a somewhat superior ride. But admittedly, that's highly subjective.


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## frpax

PJ always has good advice.


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## BryanSayer

Once you figure out fit, you might look at Jamis, or if Neuvation fits you, then you can get a very good bike in your price range.

http://www.neuvationcycling.com/


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## Loraura

I am 5'3.5" as well. The sizes you mention are too big for me. That doesn't mean they are too big for you, though.

I ride a 44cm Cannondale Synapse and a 50 Specialized Amira. Both have top tube lengths in the 500-510mm range. The Amira, which fits me best has a 506mm TT.

I've owned longer TT bikes, and consitantly had fit issues at 40+ miles on those bikes. Mostly hand and shoulder issues.

It's really hard to explain how it feels when one fits perfectly. After riding for a while ( a year or more) on a roadbike, you will know it when you feel it, though.

I wasn't even shopping for a bike and test rode the Specialized Amira out of curiosity. It was like it was made just for me. It just fit into my hands like an extension of myself. Before I bought it I test rode Cervelo, Pinnarello, Trek, and Fuji models in similar geometry and component sets and when I went back for another ride on the Amira it was extremely obvious to me that it fit best. Immediately.

I also feel a difference when standing on the pedals. There is a natural balance and center of gravity placement on a great fitting bike that feels natural there, and like it requires less effort to get up out of the saddle. The bike just settles underneath me. On larger bikes I felt like it was a large effort to get into the right position to feel good out of the saddle.

I've only ridden my Cannondale once since I bought the Specialized. It just feels so good when I ride it that I choose it nearly every time.

The WSD models have worked out best for me for a couple of reasons. The narrower handlebars and shorter cranks (on some) seem to work better for me. I have the short reach shifters on the Cannondale, and they were definately better for me than the non-short reach ones. I have the new Ultegra on the Specialized and it's not WSD, but seems fine.


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## fontarin

I agree with PJ - doesn't seem like you have shorter legs/long torso based on that measurement, at least on paper.

Get a fit, and then choose bikes to test ride whose geometry falls into those ranges. Angles can make a difference too, as some of the comfort models like the Cannondale Synapse or Specialized Ruby will get you a little more upright. 

Ask shops if you can take the bikes that stand out on an extended test ride, not just around the parking lot. Most of them will allow you to take a longer ride, and might either get your information or send an employee with you while you ride for a few miles. You might notice more on those rides. Also, make sure you know what the return policy is - this varies greatly from store to store.


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## BikeWNC

My wife is 5'3.5" and rides a Specialized 51cm Amira. She would also ride that size in a Ruby. Her inseam is 76.5cm, your 79cm sounds long to me. However, there is no substitute for riding the bike to see how it feels to you. Also, your reach on the bike is affected by where your saddle is positioned. If it wasn't in the correct place for you then you really don't have a good idea how the reach would feel with the stem that comes on the bike (which can be adjusted or replaced to fit).


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## bikegirl83

Thank you for all of your wonderful responses!

For starters, I'm beginning to question the 79cm measurement of my inseam. Either I heard the store fitter wrong or there was something wrong with his measurement. I've measured my inseam before and it's more like 28.5 inches or about 72.5cm. So I'll have to get myself measured again... 79cm can't be right.

Interesting that a few of you mentioned the Specialized Amira. I ended up testing that bike out at one store after the guy fitting me suggested it as a WSD with a slightly more extended reach. It did feel like a pretty good fit w/ the 51cm model, but that bike is pricey and I don't think they have the Amira in a cheaper price range (?)

I've also tried the Cannondale Synapse (48cm) and it felt really cramped.

The best store I've been to so far is the one that recommended I start out by trying the Bianchi Imola 49cm. They did a reasonable amount of fitting on me before putting me on the bike. Still, I'm not sold on the steel bike concept. A lot of people do seem to like steel, but the bike didn't feel as smooth as the carbon ones I was riding...

Most places have been really great about letting me take the bike out and riding them around for as long as I want. I haven't done "a few miles" on any one bike yet because I'm going through a bunch at each store trying to narrow them down. Unfortunately it's just getting more confusing. But your feedback here is really helping.


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## frpax

bikegirl83 said:


> Unfortunately it's just getting more confusing.


Haha! Welcome to roadbikereview forums!

When one asks questions here, one gets a ton of different responses! Confusion is pretty common in here. It's not that any of us are "right" or "wrong", it's just that there are differing opinions, and we're really trying to help.

In the end, regardless of what *anyone* in here says, you'll have to trust _someone_. If you don't have a close friend that's into cycling, that "someone" should be your LBS, and your instincts. If you have an LBS that is well established in the community, and if they're a sponsor of a local team, then I'd be inclined to trust what they say., and then let your test rides help you make the final decision.


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## BikeWNC

bikegirl83 said:


> Interesting that a few of you mentioned the Specialized Amira. I ended up testing that bike out at one store after the guy fitting me suggested it as a WSD with a slightly more extended reach. It did feel like a pretty good fit w/ the 51cm model, but that bike is pricey and I don't think they have the Amira in a cheaper price range (?)


The differences between the Amira and the Ruby are the Amira has a very slightly longer TT (3mm in a size 51), a shorter HT and chainstay. The Ruby would have a bit more stability due to its longer wheelbase. The Amira would feel a bit more responsive. 

The Ruby is available in a lower trim line than the Amira and has a triple crank option.


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## PJ352

I agree that you need to have your cycling inseam double checked. 72.5cm's sounds about right, and that would put you in what I'd call a 'normal' range, proportionally. Because other factors (cycling background, fitness/ flexibility, personal preferences) enter into bike fit, it's possible that some standard as well as some WSD models would suite you. Working with reputable LBS's and test rides are IMO the best way to sort that out.

Based on limited info and generally speaking, I think of the two Specialized bikes mentioned, the Ruby would be the better choice. It's basically the WSD counterpart of the Roubaix, thus is in the endurance (as opposed to competitive) category. Simply put, the Ruby would allow for a slightly more upright rider position and more predictable (slightly slower) handling that someone new to a drop bar bike might prefer. It's also more in keeping with the stated uses/ goals of your initial post. 

Regarding the Imola and steel: I suggest going back to the LBS's you like that carried brands of interest, getting sized/ fitted again and road testing some bikes. Only this time ask that they inflate the tires to the recommended level for your weight using the link below. I suspect that your impressions of ride quality will change somewhat, but you're ultmately going to be the judge.

http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=airpressure.view

This can be a confusing process, but it can also be a fun/ educational one. You're looking at all top quality bikes here, so as long as you keep working with the reputable shops and keep fit foremost in your mind, I think the odds are good that you'll end up with the bike that's right _for you_.


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## Trek2.3

Don't skip the Trek WSD bikes. I have 2 and love 'em both.

No bike "out of the box" will be a perfect fit. Make sure that the LBS guarantees (in writing) to make it fit or exchange it. On mine we had to modify the handlebar height, stem length, and seat post setback because I'm relatively long in the torso and short in the legs. Everyone is different. Easy, minor changes but what a difference they made.

Be aware that standover height can't be reduced.


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## veloduffer

To get an accurate reading of your inseam, stand with your back against a wall in stocking or bare feet and place a book between your legs up to you pubic bone. Step away and hold the book against the wall to measure to the floor.

I would recommend getting a road bike that is more upright, which would be similar to what you are used to. In other words, find a bike that has minimal distance between the height of the handlebars to the height of the seat (like 3 cm). You can always reduce the handlebar height later but it is much more difficult to raise it once the fork steerer is cut.

Having a bike that require you to lean over more may put some strain on your back and/or neck. It may not be apparent right away but may become an issue after a long ride.

Reach is derived from where you position your saddle on the seatpost to the length of the stem, as well as the handlebar height. As you raise the handlebar, the shorter the reach. Here's a few tips on determining a good reach:
1) When you sit on the bike, see if you can reach the tops of the brake hoods without locking your elbows. 
2) When you do reach the hoods, if you were to take your hands off do you think you can pedal or would you need to lift your torso?
3) Ideally, your weight distribution on the bike should be about 60% on the saddle and 40% on the handlebar.
4) The one thing women's bikes have that are different from men's is the handlebars and brake levers. Usually these bikes are spec'd with handle bars and brake levers that have shorter reach to accommodate smaller hands (than men's). You can always add these if you find a men's model that works for you.
5) When you are on the hoods, ideally your back and and neck and head should be on a relatively straight line, with your shoulders and neck relaxed. If you are straining your neck to keep your head up, it is probably too long.

If you can, maybe you can have the bike shop take a picture of you on the different models that you're trying and post them here for the forum to review the position.

Good luck.


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## frpax

So did you make a purchase? Please share!


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## bikegirl83

Hi frpax,

I just put up another post regarding my experience today test riding the Jamis Quest Femme 2009 and 2010 models. I think I really liked both of those... now I'm just torn on which to get. I'm leaning towards the 2009. Also wondering if I should get the 2010 triple (the one I test road had a compact crank. The 2009 also has the compact.) Any advice on this?


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