# Tube Patch Glue Spread,Drying Time, Patch Pressure.



## TomBrooklyn (Mar 15, 2008)

I'm new to riding again and new to patching tubes. 

How do you spread the patch glue? Do you just use the top of the tube?

How long do you leave the glue to dry. It seems to dry fast where it's thin, but in some places it might not be so thin and it stays shiny for at least 10 minutes and I'm not sure if it's dry.

How long is too long to let it dry?

When applying the patch, is it best if the tube is completely deflated or slightly inflated to make it nice and round, or does it matter? 

Do you have to rub the patch with anything to make it stick better? How much pressure, rolling, rubbing is needed?

Is a patch on a patch OK? My first patch that's about a 5/8" diameter circle sprang a leak in one spot on it's perimeter, so I put another patch about 3/4" dia. centered on that spot. There is a fairly pronounced bump on the tube now where the two patches overlap.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> How do you spread the patch glue? Do you just use the top of the tube?


That's what I do.



> How long do you leave the glue to dry. It seems to dry fast where it's thin, but in some places it might not be so thin and it stays shiny for at least 10 minutes and I'm not sure if it's dry.


I test with the top of a (clean) fingernail. When I feel no pull, it's ready. Takes only a minute or two, usually.



> How long is too long to let it dry?


Usually you get impatient, so too short is more likely. The time varies with temp, humidity, etc.



> When applying the patch, is it best if the tube is completely deflated or slightly inflated to make it nice and round, or does it matter?


Deflated, so you can put good pressure.



> Do you have to rub the patch with anything to make it stick better? How much pressure, rolling, rubbing is needed?


I just use finger pressure, but lots of it, all over the patch surface.



> Is a patch on a patch OK? My first patch that's about a 5/8" diameter circle sprang a leak in one spot on it's perimeter, so I put another patch about 3/4" dia. centered on that spot. There is a fairly pronounced bump on the tube now where the two patches overlap.


Generally not a good idea. It's likely to fail again, since the first patch was not well bonded, and will breach somewhere else. See if you can gently peel the old patch off, rub off as much as possible of the old glue, and put a new patch. Maybe use a larger one.


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## lalahsghost (Aug 27, 2007)

I rub from the center of the patch outward once I have placed it on there, also I put glue about 1/4" more around than where the patch is going to land, just so it will surely vulcanize the edges of the rubber patch. Once all that is dandy, I roll my co2 cartridge over it a couple time to make sure it is on there. Never had a problem with my skillz/techniques. :thumbsup:


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## lawrence (May 17, 2005)

All good advice. I roll the patch really hard to make a good seal with my tire lever. Ideally after patching, I like to put the tube immediately in a tire/rim and pump it to 120 lbs. The pressure of the tube against the tire helps set the patch.


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## 95624 (Oct 23, 2007)

When I first used glue patches, tires had "gumwalls". I would notice the "gumwall" would discolor from the patch/glue after a number of days. I decided from that experience that the glue is likely to degrade the tire. Since then I put my spare tube in when I am on the road and I patch the tube when I get home, at my leisure.

The first patches that I used, as a young kid, were these Camel Vulcanizing patches that you would clamp to the tube and then light the top with a match. Those patches were really strong and were a great excuse to play with fire. I think each patch cost half the price of a tube, but dad paid for them, so no big deal.

Here is a link, in case you are interested in what they look like:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1946-Camel-Container-of-Tire-Vulcanizing-Patch-Units_W0QQitemZ360085483769QQihZ023QQcategoryZ863QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## turbomatic73 (Jan 22, 2004)

best advice...USE REMA. harder to find now 'days, but better than the "house" brands from performance, rei, nashbar, etc. REMA...comes with instructions...just follow them exactly and you'll be set.


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## Slim Again Soon (Oct 25, 2005)

*Camel patches -- huge!*

Man, those are some big patches! Sounds like fun, though, torching those things off.

The clamp looks like something from a 1920s doctor's office. Kinda creepy.

When I was a kid, using patch kits that were pretty much what you get today (though bigger boxes, bigger patches, more of them and more glue) we would always light off the stickem with a match before we slapped on the patch. I don't know why we did so, but at that age, any chance to play with matches was not to be ignored.

It worked -- I never had a patch fail.


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## kykr13 (Apr 12, 2008)

Only thing I can add is that when you're putting a patch on a seam of the tube (it's not really a seam but more like a small ridge, probably where two halves of a mold came together during manufacturing), make sure to sand the ridge in that area off so it's level. Trying to put a patch across this small ridge won't work too well.


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## Val_Garou (Apr 30, 2002)

turbomatic73 said:


> best advice...USE REMA. harder to find now 'days, but better than the "house" brands from performance, rei, nashbar, etc. REMA...comes with instructions...just follow them exactly and you'll be set.


*Agree*, strongly. It's a better deal if you can track them down in bulk form.

http://www.amazon.com/Patch-Kit-Rem...e=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1220923631&sr=8-1


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I wipe off the tube near the puncture with a rag wet with Brake Parts Cleaner.
Sand lightly and wipe again.
Put glue on and spread with finger so extends beyond size of the patch.
I find most patches in kits are too large for skinny road tubes and don't hesitate to trim edges of patch with a scissor making sure you don't touch the contact portion.
I use the 'fingernail tap' trick to see when the glue is no longer sticky. Waiting longer is better.
I press the patch on with my finger and then roll back and forth over it with a 'Screen-Roller' that concentrates pressure on the tube and makes for a high pressure seal.
Apply powder and put in a spare wheel and pump to 120 psi overnight.
Never had one fail if I use this method, and don't hurry and apply patch before glue is dry.


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