# fork stem dilemma on new Bianchi fixed



## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

Bianchi Pista Classica frameset arrived yesterday. Looks very classic, with skinny steel tubes, chromed lugs and tips, subtle graphics, and sloping crown fork. Going to build it with 70's vintage Campy Pista, large flange hubs, drop bars, but with brakes (Campy Record shiny ones). Of course, the goal is a classic looking bike.

Here's the issue. The fork steer tube is unthreaded. Can't believe it, but there it is. Go pure classic, or in your opinion, have unthreaded forks/stems become so prevalent that they are acceptable, too?

So, my options are:

1) Use the unthreaded Bianchi fork with a classic looking unthreaded stem, like this; not cheap at $140.



https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_263_1333_2198&products_id=11480


2) Use an all chromed threaded fork and quill stem. Already have both.


3) Cut threads on the Bianchi fork. The Park tool to do this is $200. Since the steerer is uncut now, I can do a trial run on the uncut part with no risk to the needed part.


Bianchi's photo (fork is actually curved)


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## Allez Rouge (Jan 1, 1970)

Could a local machine shop handle Option #3 for you? That's the way I would go, unless I was just looking for an excuse to buy another $200 tool.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

I like quill stems, too. I'd go for option 2. chrome would look good, IMO. 

I'd be very leary of considering option 3 unless I could determine for certain that the metal of the steerer is thick enough to be strong enough after the threads are cut. Threadless steerers can be and I think often are made of thinner materials than the old forks.

If you use the other fork, make sure the rake is acceptable, or you could get handling weirdness.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

Allez Rouge said:


> Could a local machine shop handle Option #3 for you? That's the way I would go, unless I was just looking for an excuse to buy another $200 tool.


Probably could find a shop (which could take days to track down), but this is the second, and likely not the last, time this has come up. If I go theaded on this one, I'll want to do it myself.


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## PdxMark (Feb 3, 2004)

What a gorgeous framesest! I like option 1 so you can keep the stock painted fork and chromed lugs. The lugged threadless stem is made by Nitto, so that's almost as good as a Nitto quill stem. IIRC, we can thank Rivendell for the availability of that lugged stem.

It looks like the ol' Pista is headed for retirement?


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Quill gets my vote....


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

first, slow down and answer this... is the ht made for a 1" or 1-1/8" steerer?


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## frmrench (Apr 10, 2009)

Great looking frame indeed! I'd definitely go option #1. No alterations necessary is a good policy, and that stem looks equally awesome. Go with your traditional parts list and you'll have efficiency, performance, and tradition. I'd love to see pics once you have it built up!


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

FatTireFred said:


> first, slow down and answer this... is the ht made for a 1" or 1-1/8" steerer?


1" steerer


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## kbwh (May 28, 2010)

I'd find an unthreaded stem, but less ornamented than your sample above. Bianchi was never into ornamented lugwork anyway.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

1 is the easiest, 2 the cheapest (headset only), 3 the most difficult and potentially problematic (steerer walls thick enough?)... isn't this kinda deja vu?


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## Pablo (Jul 7, 2004)

I think the first stem would be attractive and would not really undermine the old school look you want.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Pablo said:


> I think the first stem would be attractive and would not really undermine the old school look you want.


In rethinking this, the first stem with the center section painted Celeste would look great...Leave the lugs chrome and paint the tube Celeste....


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

There is a third option, the Soma Quill-inator. A little chunky looking but it solves your problem. http://store.somafab.com/soqu.html

I would highly advise you not try and thread an threadless stem. The threads on threaded stems are rolled on, not cut. The park tool is designed to chase or cut threads on an already threaded steerer, not to thread a threadless stem; it will remove too much metal and make the steerer unsafe.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

onespeedbiker said:


> The threads on threaded stems are rolled on, not cut. .


Almost without exception, the threads on threaded forks are cut, not rolled on. Spoke threads are rolled on.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

wim said:


> Almost without exception, the threads on threaded forks are cut, not rolled on. Spoke threads are rolled on.




plus, "threaded stems" don't have threads!


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

wim said:


> Almost without exception, the threads on threaded forks are cut, not rolled on. Spoke threads are rolled on.


Really? I was told differently (meaning a steerer of course); my bad :idea:. However, I was also told that it is almost impossible to properly start the threading process on a large diameter post with a self propelled die so the result would be very poor. I assume then that steerers are cut on a lathe type machine? I stand by the rest of my post however. While the threading may not weaken the steerer, it will be of very poor quality which may result in the top (threaded) race being canted.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

PdxMark said:


> What a gorgeous framesest! I like option 1 so you can keep the stock painted fork and chromed lugs. The lugged threadless stem is made by Nitto, so that's almost as good as a Nitto quill stem. IIRC, we can thank Rivendell for the availability of that lugged stem.
> 
> It looks like the ol' Pista is headed for retirement?



Sold the Mondonico, so still have the old Pista. Had to rob the bb from it, though, since the Mondonico was Italian and both Bianchis English. 

Interesting frame weights. Mondonico, high end Columbus Life, lugged, 4.3 pounds. Pista Classica, lugged, chromoly something, 4.5 pounds. Old Pista, welded 525, 4.1 pounds. That Mondonico frame alone was $2,500, and the old Pista complete bike was $500 (but upgraded components since). 

So, will keep the old Pista for my "climbing" fixed. Comes in at 15.5 pounds complete. The new one is mainly for joy rides and commuting. Will get some pix up soon.


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## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

Origin 8 makes a nice threadless silver stem with a contoured shape I like a lot. The Velo Orange threadless silver stems are nice too.


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## Pablo (Jul 7, 2004)

Dave Hickey said:


> In rethinking this, the first stem with the center section painted Celeste would look great...Leave the lugs chrome and paint the tube Celeste....


Exactly! I love a stem that matches the frame.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*worse*

The Park site describes the process of cutting new threads with its tool. It looks doable. I'd think that if you started with the steerer cut extra long, threaded it, then cut off the excess, the threads would almost have to be straight by the time the tool got a inch or so down the tube. 

http://www.parktool.com/product/fork-threading-set-fts-1

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threading-fork-steering-columns-fts-1-use

Nonetheless, the Park site states that the tool is for tubes that are not chromed. Guess what? The Bianchi steer tube is chromed. I assume that chrome is too hard to cut threads in. So, now the dillema is either getting more or less difficult. Either I now have to first remove the chrome, and without damaging the rest of the fork, or just stick with the threadless approach. Threw on the chromed threaded fork for now, anyway, and rode it to work today.

The wall thickness of the unthreaded fork is the same as a threaded fork I have, and the inside diameter is the same. A quill stem fits fine. Too bad you can't simply use it with a no-thread headset, a small retainer clamp, then insert a quill stem. I can't think of why that would not work.



onespeedbiker said:


> Really? I was told differently (meaning a steerer of course); my bad . However, I was also told that it is almost impossible to properly start the threading process on a large diameter post with a self propelled die so the result would be very poor. I assume then that steerers are cut on a lathe type machine? I stand by the rest of my post however. While the threading may not weaken the steerer, it will be of very poor quality which may result in the top (threaded) race being canted.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*photo*

Here's a bad iphone photo:


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

all that consternation over the stem, and you have the nerve to put on a modern saddle and modern campy/cane creek/tektro levers? even the brakes look like dp. and clipless pedals???


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Beautiful....Well done


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*not consistent*



FatTireFred said:


> all that consternation over the stem, and you have the nerve to put on a modern saddle and modern campy/cane creek/tektro levers? even the brakes look like dp. and clipless pedals???


 
I know, it's not all consistent. The clipless I run when using it as a commuter. Road pedals or worse yet, clips and straps, just don't work well for commuting and 35 stoplights each way. Plus, pedals can be changed in seconds. Flite saddles have been around a long time, but more importantly, they fit my butt. Have them on many bikes. Brakes are not old school, but at least they are shiny aluminum. But, somehow for me, if you are going to at least partially mimic old school, you got to have a quill stem. Steel and quill stems are essential. It's not perfectly rational or consistent. However, what started to open up my mind to change was the rider winning the Furnace Creek 508 last year in the Retro division, and overall as well, on a steel bike with a threadless stem. I thought, wtf, a threadless fork/stem "retro"? Sure enough, he noted threadless stems dating back to around 1980, albeit on mountain bikes (or "off road" bikes) back then. It's a tough preconception to break, though, having a "retro" bike with a threadless fork/stem. 

Good suggestion is the lugged stem with painted center section. Might go that route. While I have a custom can of celeste handy, Bianchi, as usual, has come up with yet another distinct shade of celeste. This one has much more blue and less green, so nothing matches well. Looks good alone, though.


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

Fixed said:


> The Park site describes the process of cutting new threads with its tool. It looks doable. I'd think that if you started with the steerer cut extra long, threaded it, then cut off the excess, the threads would almost have to be straight by the time the tool got a inch or so down the tube.
> 
> http://www.parktool.com/product/fork-threading-set-fts-1
> 
> ...


Wow, this is the first time I ever seen any manufacturer claim an threadless steerer can be threaded; I would love to give it a try!
I also can't think of a time I have been so wrong :blush2:


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

Option #1 is the only real choice.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*Grammo?*

What about using a Cinelli Grammo Ti? Used to have it on my other Pista. It's a little flexy, but not a huge deal on this bike. Classic enough?


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## Allez Rouge (Jan 1, 1970)

I'll give you $250 for that bicycle, right now, cash money.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*funny*



Allez Rouge said:


> I'll give you $250 for that bicycle, right now, cash money.


Dang, you are persistent. The NOS Campy Pista components alone cost me $1,200 and took two years to find.


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## Allez Rouge (Jan 1, 1970)

Fixed said:


> Dang, you are persistent. The NOS Campy Pista components alone cost me $1,200 and took two years to find.


You can't blame a guy for trying.

(BTW, this time the offer was for the older bike. I like the new one better, but for $250, I'd take either. )

$1200 for the NOS bits is not what I wanted to read. I looked up the price on the new frame, saw that it was about the same amount. So the total is more than I could ever justify for a fixed gear (or, actually, a SS: I'm not hard core enough for a fixie). But wow, what gorgeous bikes -- both of 'em.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

Allez Rouge said:


> You can't blame a guy for trying.
> 
> (BTW, this time the offer was for the older bike. I like the new one better, but for $250, I'd take either. )
> 
> $1200 for the NOS bits is not what I wanted to read. I looked up the price on the new frame, saw that it was about the same amount. So the total is more than I could ever justify for a fixed gear (or, actually, a SS: I'm not hard core enough for a fixie). But wow, what gorgeous bikes -- both of 'em.


Since I ride fixed more than anything else, I'm willing to pay it. Haven't added up what I have in it, but it's probably close to my Cervelo P2C with Record and Zipp 999 wheels. That thing is fast, but generic, though.

The Bianchis inspire me. Still have my 1980 Bianchi. 31 years old, now. Something about the (almost) unique celeste color and the oldest bike manufacturer around. Lots of history.


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