# Giant vs. Raleigh vs. Redline



## seattlesyclist (Dec 22, 2006)

I've been looking at the specs for various bikes, and am trying to educate myself before I fork out the dough. Sorry for the length of this post, but I am a newbie when it comes to bikes but I am getting totally hooked on it.

I am looking for a good-weather commuter bike that also works on the road--I want to ride the 210-mile Seattle to Portland race in the summer. I ride 12-27 miles each way to work, and have several rolling hills with 10-15 degree grade. My LBS carries Giant, Raleigh and Redline; I looked at Jake the Snake but can't handle the optic green.

1. The Raleigh Rx 1.0 has a full carbon fork, while the Giant OCR 1 & 2; the Raleigh Cadent 2.0 and the Redline Conquest Pro have carbon with an aluminum steerer, and the Redline Conquest has an aluminum fork with disc tabs.

I've read the thread about carbon forks and safety, but I cannot tell what the performance difference is.

2. All of the bikes have a Shimano 105 rear derailleur. As for the rest of the components, the Giant OCR 1and Redline Conquest Pro have primarily Shimano 105 while the others are primarily Shimano Tiagra with an occasional 105 thrown in.

For my riding needs, is there enough of a difference between the Tiagra and 105 that I should spend the extra money?

3. For commuting up and down hills (10-15 degree grade), how many chainrings would I need? The Giant OCR 1 & 2, and the Raleigh Cadent 2.0 have 3 chainrings, while some the Raleigh RX 1.0, and the Redline Conquest and Conquest Pro have only two. Since I tend to chicken out at around 35-40 mph downhill, I really need something suited for hills and flats rather than for downhill speed.

Would 2 chainrings be enough?


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## RHRoop (Nov 1, 2006)

*Thoughts*

I just got the Raleigh. I thought about the Redline as both are sold by my LBS that sponsors our club. The Raleigh fit me better and the fork is awesome- worth at least $400. I got the Tiagra/105 mix and to be honest can´t tell much difference in performance between that and my bikes with Ultegra, XTR or Durace. I like that the 105 rear mech is 10 spd capable so if I want to upgrade the shifters to 10 spd it won't be as expensive.

I bought the Raleigh for CX but have been using it for winter training rides on the Des Plaines River Trail and will probably use it to ride to work once my weekly hours gets up there and the days are longer.


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## singlespeed.org (Feb 14, 2006)

We aren't talking apples to apples here. The Redline is a cross bike, where the other two are road bikes. To go apples to apples, Giant has a cross bike - the TCX. I believe Raliegh has a cross bike also. Last I checked, Redline does not have a road bike.

But here's my comparison:
Cross bikes are made to handle heavier usage than road bikes (in general). Also made to put up with nastier conditions (mud, etc.). But that makes for a bike that is a bit heavier in weight. This bodes well for usage as a commuter, but the heavier weight can drag on you on centuries and such. 

Cross bikes are also set up for cross racing, where if you get to a hill steep enough you get off and run. As such, cross bikes generally have 2 chain rings, and even the gears they have are not great climbing gears. Unless you are strong, you may want to change out the gears on a cross bike (e.g. a wider cluster in back), or look at a road bike.

As cross races are short, they don't have to worry about making a bike with comfort in mind, as a long distance rider would require, so often use stiffer parts (the Redline I had about 10 years ago had an all aluminum fork). Doesn't make for as good a bike for centuries and such.

No matter - get saddle time in each bike and see what feels best. That is always the most important to me.


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## RHRoop (Nov 1, 2006)

*Raleigh RX 1.0*

is most definitely a cross bike.

As far as gearing goes I half agree. A cross bike has smaller chainrings than a traditional roadbike. With a maximum 25 or 26 in the back you can ride up anything. No crosser in his right mind would run up something he could ride up. You will get frustrated on CX gearing on a road ride if you put some slicks on and try to ride in a group. Especially if that group is on road bikes and as strong or stronger than you. If you are fit and race a lot and are riding with weekend cowboys you would probably be fine.

I'm sure CX bikes are built to be hardier than the standard road bike not stiffer than all road bikes. Stiffer than a touring bike for sure but not a race bike. The big tires smooth out alot of the smaller bumps. The advantage of a stiff frame and fork on a cross bike is that it goes exactly where you point it. My Raliegh feels like it corners on rails.

If you only plan to own one bike and to commute or do some mixed trail and road riding then a CX bike is probably the way to go.


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## seattlesyclist (Dec 22, 2006)

*One thing confuses me*

I don't quite understand the relationship between chainring size, cassette gear sizes and climbing power. Which ring coupled with which cassette/gear provides the climbing power?

For example, if the chainrings are 50/40/30 and the cassette is a 10-speed 12-27t, which chainring and which cassette gear would be the lowest (and therefore make climbing the easiest)?

For two chainrings, what would be a good size to use with a 10-speed cassette 12-27t for similar climbing power as the three-chainring setup?

Please forgive any incorrecxt use of terms--I still learning, and this forum is helping greatly.


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## syndicate559 (Mar 5, 2006)

*regarding chainriings & gearing*

If you have a 50/40/30 on the front and a 12/27 on the back, 30/27 is going to be your lowest climbing gear, and believe me, that will get you up a wall! Going triple or double in the front is a matter of personal preference as well as strength. You won't see many experienced road riders using a triple in front, even on big climbs. A 53/39 with a 12-27 will handle just about anything if you have decent legs, but it takes a while to work up to that. If your hills aren't real long, I would suggest going with a double. Triples are more prone to shifting problems, they're heavier and, I hate to say it, are kind of like a "newbie" flag. One great alternative is a compact double up front. These are typically 50/34 gearing. With a 12-27 cassette on back, it's as good as having a triple, but lighter than a traditional double. It covers just about every situation other than fast race and sprinting situations. You really should decided whether a cross bike or road bike is best for you. Sounds like a road bike to me, but you know better than anyone. If you're really only planning on riding in good weather and on paved roads, you'll be happier with a road bike. BTW, I just got a Kona JTS and I LOVE the green. It's so ugly that it's beautiful. It sits proudly next to my S-Works Tarmac and dares anyone to say it isn't pretty.  Seriously, for the money, you won't find a much better equipped bike. Easton EC70 fork, Shimano 105 drive train, FSA crank, etc. Good stuff for just over a grand. Good luck. As long as you buy a bike and ride a lot, you'll have fun.


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## seattlesyclist (Dec 22, 2006)

*Cross compact double chainrings?*

*1. If I decide to go with a cyclocross bike*, it looks like I would have the choice of one of the three chainring/cassette combinations:

46/36 with a 12-25 (10 sp) cassette [Kona JTS--I would be willing to see if my 50 year-old desk jockey mentality can handle optic green]
46/36 with a 12-27 (10 sp) cassette [Redline Conquest Pro]
48/39 with a 12-26 (9 sp) cassette [Raleigh Rx 1.0]

Is there an appreciable difference between the three that would justify upgrading either the chainrings or the cassette if I really love the feel of a particular bike? I checked my steepest hill and it is about 1.5 miles at about a 15-20 degree grade.

*2. If I decide to go with a road bike*, my budget and my LBS stock of bikes will pretty much limit me to a Giant OCR 1.

Assuming the bike feels good, my concern would be durability, especially if I use it to commute in bad weather. (My LBS owner said that many people who buy a road bike for good weather commuting end up using it for bad weather commuting as well, because they miss their road bike too much to put it away for 4-6 months per year.

Can anybody weigh in on this?


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## giovanni sartori (Feb 5, 2004)

seattlesyclist said:


> *1. If I decide to go with a cyclocross bike*, it looks like I would have the choice of one of the three chainring/cassette combinations:
> 
> 46/36 with a 12-25 (10 sp) cassette [Kona JTS--I would be willing to see if my 50 year-old desk jockey mentality can handle optic green]
> 46/36 with a 12-27 (10 sp) cassette [Redline Conquest Pro]
> ...


I don't know who your LBS is and it sounds like you want to work through them. I did notice that Recycled Cycles is offering 15% off all bikes and I know they carry Raleigh and Kona. Whatever you decide you might want to see if your LBS will price match.


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## The Wrench (Oct 20, 2006)

I'm not smart enought to answer your gear ratio questions, but I can tell you the green JTS will make it much easier for drivers to see you than the black Redline or blueish Raleigh. Of course, I live in North Carolina where nearly everyone thinks they are NASCAR drivers. I hate them all.


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## seattlesyclist (Dec 22, 2006)

The Wrench said:


> I'm not smart enought to answer your gear ratio questions, but I can tell you the green JTS will make it much easier for drivers to see you than the black Redline or blueish Raleigh. Of course, I live in North Carolina where nearly everyone thinks they are NASCAR drivers. I hate them all.


I"m not smart enough either, but the more I post on this forum the smarter I get. It's nice to have access to a large body of expertise. As for the optic green, I would need to trade visibility for the never ending laughter and riducule of my wife and daughter. I accomplish the visibility by way of a front headlight and blinking LED, a rear blinking red light plus a red blinking helmet-mounted light, plus high-visibility tape on front and rear fenders, and blinking lights that strap on my legs). The laughter . . .

In any event, the JTS and the Redline Conquest Pro appear to have very similar specs; the Raleigh Rx 1.0 and the Redline Conquest look to be somewhat lower.

As far as the gearing, as best I can tell the higher gears probably mean less to a rider like me, since I'm not going to be hitting 30 mph on the flats and I get scared downhill much past 40 mph. So it probably means I should test ride all of them (and also the Giant OCR 1 road bike) up one of my least favorite hills and just see which one(s) fell best on the hill.


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## The Wrench (Oct 20, 2006)

For sure ride as many as you can. But don't forget to take off your helmet before you drive home. I did that once. Not good...


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