# Anybody else having rear shifting problems w/ 10spd DA???



## Mark Baker (Mar 18, 2007)

I've tried working with my local dealer for a year now to get my new DA 10spd set up shifting smoothly in the rear. Nothing seems to work! Dealer has really done everything to try to work with me but I still have issues where the rear deraileur either misses shifts altogether or doesn't shift smoothly. Everything has been replaced at least once! Shift levers, chain, cogs, cables, deraileurs... everything! Still a third of my attempted shifts are botched or clunky! Only difference for pure DA set up is the Shimano compact crank that I'm using. I do a lot of climbing and opted for the compact to help get up the grade!

Anyone else have a similar experience with DuraAce?


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## hclignett (Dec 18, 2006)

Mine shifts great and I constantly change between an 12-23 and 12-27 rear cassette. I am running an 53-39 up front though. You may want to check your rear derailler hanger or if your cables are not set-up properly. Try going to a different mechanic and see what happens. I had trouble with an Ultagra 9 speed shifter but Shimano replaced it no questions asked.


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## Ray Dockrey (Aug 28, 2005)

I agree with the above. My first thought was a bent hanger. That can cause exactly what you are describing.


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## Unoveloce (Apr 13, 2005)

*A couple of things to check*

are the rear cable loop length, the chain length, and that the tab on the rear derailleur that sits between the pinch bolt and the derailleur body is in the correct position. The rear cable loop is usually not the problem, though it's the easist to diagnose. If in doubt, leave it a little long. The chain needs to be not too short, especially if you are riding in the big ring alot coupled with a short cage derailleur. The other thing to check, and I always do it first for a couple of reasons, is the cable pinch bolt plate. The reasons I check it are first, it cost nothing to fix if it's wrong and second, I've messed it up enough to know better. The plate will have a hole through it for the bolt to pass through on its way to the deraiileur body. There will be a tab on the plate bent perpendicular to the hole. It's really easy to have that plate wind up covering the cable in kind of the middle position when you clamp the cable down. It needs to be on the side of the hole that is the closest to the barrel adjuster. The cable will touch the plate in the late portions of the derailleur throw and it will affect the leverage ratio on the derailleurs parallelogram. If it doesn't, it will shift all wonky.


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## uzziefly (Jul 15, 2006)

Err no problems ever since.

Have you tried adjusting the rear der? Anything stuck? Ok probably not.

Any dent in the rear der? Has it been knocked on hard in a crash or something?


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## TomFL (Jul 7, 2003)

*I had the exact problem you are talking about...*

chased it for a year or more, and regretted switching from 9 speed DA to the 10 speed. Then one day I switched wheels and voila, the problem was gone. Turns out the hub in the old wheel had some wear/play in it, and was causing the cassette to move ever so slightly and botch the shifts. 

I have also seen a chain that was 2 links too short cause a ton of shifting problems as well, and it doesn't get much cheaper than that to check/fix.

-T


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