# Need help - Single Speed



## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

New to the forums, and to the biking community.

I recently found a 1975 Fuji Special Tourer in the dumpster a while ago. I kept it and decided to turn it into my summer project. 

To get to the point, I want to turn it into a single speed. I know absolutely nothing about bikes, and anyones input would be helpful. 

I bought new wheels and tires, with a universal hub. Now i need the single speed device (gear, freewheel, or whatever its called) along with a decent crankset, possibly new bottom bracket (since mine is outdated),and decent chain and pedals. 

My question is what should i get? I would like to keep it all under $170 if i can. 

I was looking at: http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=188_333_689_690

Im just clueless as to what to get and whether or not it will work on my wheel hub. 

Please help!!!


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Here is some pictures of my wheel hub and current old bottom bracket


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Welcome to the Forum!
Great place to get advice and help.
Others are more knowledgeable than I am, but a good place for info online are the articles by Sheldon Brown on Harris Cyclery......Harris
Again Welcome!!
john


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

I second the welcome.

You need a single-speed freewheel, and a crankset, and the bb to go with it (those cottered cranks your bike had are long obsolete, and with good reason; they were a giant pain to work on).

Here are some things that would work, and cheap.
Origin 8 singlespeed crank
Fixed Gear and Singlespeed Cranks and Cranksets for Bicycles from Harris Cyclery
Shimano UN-55 BB
Bicycle Bottom Bracket Parts from Harris Cyclery
SS freewheel
Singlespeed Bicycle Headquarters-Harris Cyclery-One Speed Specialists

Read the articles at the link jmlapoint put up. Sheldon Brown was one of the great master mechanics and particularly knowledgeable about such conversions. He died 4 years ago, but the shop he managed, Harris Cyclery, has maintained the online archive of his articles, and several smart people update the articles as equipment changes. Old stuff doesn't change, of course, so his discussions of conversions are gold.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Thank you very much for the responses.

Will these parts fit my bicycle for sure? 

And which single speed free wheel do you recommend? 

Is this a decent gear ratio to use for beginners? The terrain around me is dominately flat, tarmac. So im looking for a good setup or number of gear teeth that would work good for me


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

JCavilia nailed it. Your bike will accept the UN-55 bottom bracket (Fujis are made with English threads, the same as the model he suggested). The Origin 8 cranks achieve a 42mm chainline with a bottom bracket length of *107mm*. That chainline is worth remembering because that's what most new Flip/Flop hubs are designed to achieve. Since you have new wheels, that's what you're aiming for. As for which freewheel to go for, that's a tough call. Gearing is a really personal choice. It's like your favorite music; Personal choice but still polite if discussed in public. As a general guideline many people like something around 70 - 75 gear inches for riding fixed around town. You're going for a single speed with a freewheel which eliminates the concerns around going down hills. For more info on this and figuring out what combinations of chainrings and freewheels will give you how many gear inches (or gain ratio if that makes more sense to you) check here. It's common for people to gear their single speeds a little lower than fixed gears. That way it's a little easier to pedal up a hill and then you just coast down, rather than pedaling so fast you fall off your bike.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

For now, I don't have any information to add to what's already been given.

I had a Panasonic of about that vintage. When I bought it, it was a complete 10-speed, but the drivetrain parts started crapping out pretty fast. Eventually I turned it into a singlespeed and I was pleasantly surprised by how much fun it was with all the gear-shifting stuff removed - it lost enough weight to have a different handling feel, and turned into a really fun ride.

So, this will be a good project I think.

How about a pic of the whole (or as much as you have, anyway) bike?


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

If I were doing this, I'd look at White Industries http://whiteind.com/

a little more money, but very nice stuff. Origin8 is very nice, and Ben's can be quite helpful. You're on the right track. My very favorites are reclaimed bikes living on as SS and fixed!


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

One more word on gearing choice. This is fundamentally about individual riding style, choice, terrain, etc., but there are some guidelines from experience. If you used that Origin 8 crankset with the 46-tooth ring, combined with an 18-tooth freewheel and the common 25mm tire, you'd get a 67-inch gear, a good all-around SS gear for many riders in relatively flat terrain. 

With this gear, at 90 rpm you'd be going 18 mph, which is a speed a strong recreational rider can sustain on the flats. It's still low enough to climb the occasional short hill without bogging down (12 mph = 60 rpm), and the freewheel allows you to coast down the occasional descent.

If you ride a little slower than that, and you want the traffic starts and climbs to be a little easier, a 20-tooth freewheel gives you a 60.5 inch gear, which means 16 mph at 90 rpm. If you develop a good spin, this gear still allows you some speed (21 mph = 116 rpm). For more casual around-town riding, that might be a sensible choice.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

JCavilia said:


> One more word on gearing choice. This is fundamentally about individual riding style, choice, terrain, etc., but there are some guidelines from experience. If you used that Origin 8 crankset with the 46-tooth ring, combined with an 18-tooth freewheel and the common 25mm tire, you'd get a 67-inch gear, a good all-around SS gear for many riders in relatively flat terrain.
> 
> With this gear, at 90 rpm you'd be going 18 mph, which is a speed a strong recreational rider can sustain on the flats. It's still low enough to climb the occasional short hill without bogging down (12 mph = 60 rpm), and the freewheel allows you to coast down the occasional descent.
> 
> If you ride a little slower than that, and you want the traffic starts and climbs to be a little easier, a 20-tooth freewheel gives you a 60.5 inch gear, which means 16 mph at 90 rpm. If you develop a good spin, this gear still allows you some speed (21 mph = 116 rpm). For more casual around-town riding, that might be a sensible choice.


Very informative post. It is good to see some recommendations in the 70's and below gears. I see and read people using very large gears and that is certainly OK, but for me 60 - 70 inch gearing is great. I actually use 42 x 18, and the nice thing about that is 42t Chainrings are rather easy to find. I splurged on a Phil Wood S/S 18t Cog which has shown minimal wear in 4 years. I ride flat, good roads and 64" gear is really nice.
john


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I had right around 70" on my road-going singlespeed commuter. That worked well for me. I could hit speeds a little over 20 when I wanted to, I could accelerate out of stop signs and traffic lights well, and unless I was super-tired, the cruising pace was reasonable for me.


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

I'm using 65 and 66 on the single speeds; 70 on the fixed gear.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

David Loving said:


> I'm using 65 and 66 on the single speeds; 70 on the fixed gear.


I don't have any SS bikes, but I have 2 FG's. My bad-weather commuter / errand bike is a little heavy, with rack, fenders, lots of lights, etc., and I often load the rack and panniers with a lot of stuff. I run about a 65-inch gear on that (39x16 with 27x1 1/4 tires). That works pretty well. 

My other fixie is stripped down and lighter, and I run a 73-inch gear (39x14 with 23mm tires). I like a little higher gear on that one, paradoxically because I ride it on more hills, and the bigger gear allows a little more downhill speed without having to drag the brake a lot to keep the spin. I'd probably run a little lower gear if it had a freewheel. It's geared a wee bit high for my cruising ability (90 rpm = 19.5 mph), but it works. Headwinds on the way home from work can be a grind, but that's life in the fixed lane.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Well I went ahead and bought a 16t shimano freewheel last night. I will pick up that origin 8 crankset and a good chain sometime next week. Hopefully im making a decent choice. I will post pictures soon. 

Now im beginning to look at brakes. When I found this bike in a dumpster, it had both "U" shapped brakes on it. unfortunately one was broken, the shaft that went to the brake pad. 

So does anyone have any good experiences with a decent cost, brake system? handlebar levers, cables, and brakes? Like is there an affordable package I could get that would fit my older bike frame?


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Here is the pictures that I said I would post. Work in progress.

Well the frame is done. I was going to paint it but I decided to leave it like it is. Looks very rustic, industrial. I let it rust for a couple days then put clear coat on it to give it some character.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

With the new $150 wheels on it, it runs so smooth.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Looking good! For brakes, I'd run the cheapest caliper brake Tektro makes. Same for the levers. Good stuff, well made, re-badged as much more expensive brands (Cane Creek, I'm looking at you). Looking at the distance between your rim and fork crown I'm wondering if you'd need mid- or long reach brakes. I honestly don't know. Anyone else care to chime in on that?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

*Brake reach*

Looks fairly long, but you should measure.








https://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

JCavilia said:


> Looks fairly long, but you should measure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agreed... You need to measure to be sure...the good news is that Tetkro makes brakes in long and extra long reach....


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

You guys are awesome. I shall measure and get back to you


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

AhohmODU said:


> Here is the pictures that I said I would post. Work in progress.
> 
> Well the frame is done. I was going to paint it but I decided to leave it like it is. Looks very rustic, industrial. I let it rust for a couple days then put clear coat on it to give it some character.


Very Nice! Nice build and awesome photos. THAT is a long break reach...any tire or wheel will easily fit (?29er).
Enjoy!


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

That is one nice looking bike. Why don't you stick with center-pull brakes!


Dia Compe #610 Centerpull Brake - Brakes - Brakes & Parts - Components


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## markaitch (Nov 3, 2010)

@David Loving...did you read op's initial post?


AhohmODU said:


> ...I recently found a 1975 Fuji Special Tourer *in the dumpster *a while ago. I kept it and decided to turn it into my summer project...
> 
> ...I would like to keep it all *under $170...* if i can.


first you recommend he buy a wi freewheel? very nice but awfully hi priced for a low-budget build

now you suggest $75 per wheel calipers?

do you really think you are being helpful to this guy?


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

David Loving said:


> That is one nice looking bike. Why don't you stick with center-pull brakes!
> 
> 
> Dia Compe #610 Centerpull Brake - Brakes - Brakes & Parts - Components


Why not go all the way to FG, and then you only need 1 Brake?


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

markaitch said:


> @David Loving...did you read op's initial post?
> 
> 
> first you recommend he buy a wi freewheel? very nice but awfully hi priced for a low-budget build
> ...


I think trying to keep it under $175 is unreasonable.
good components are cheaper in the long run!


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

I think I am being helpful. I was not aware that I broke any forum rules. If I did then I apologize! The bike started out with center pulls, or so the photos suggest. He can find cheaper center pulls or rehabilitate the ones the has. The one in his photo looks usable to me. I do not think he ought to go to side pulls because they are not period correct. I agree with you that a Shimano freewheel would work fine on this build, but he ought to know what's out there. $175.00 limit is a bit unreasonable, true. A WI crankset would not work on this build IMO. A WI freewheel is the best one can buy and it does not hurt OP to know about them. If he does not want to spend the money he won't. He is doing very well on his own.


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## markaitch (Nov 3, 2010)

don't be so sensitive for god's sake :shocked:
was just sayin that when a guy posts that he is working on a dumpster find & states he has a severely restricted budget it makes no sense & is not helpful to suggest high end parts for his build.
nuff said...


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## Tripp88 (Jun 3, 2012)

Looks great...


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

markaitch said:


> don't be so sensitive for god's sake :shocked:
> was just sayin that when a guy posts that he is working on a dumpster find & states he has a severely restricted budget it makes no sense & is not helpful to suggest high end parts for his build.
> nuff said...


hey, all the advice is free, including yours.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

relax relax, im not that poor. 

I seriously considered getting a WI freewheel, but read the reviews on them, which complained about the noise of the clicking. Shimano sounds reasonable. Should last a good year before it starts to break down. Im a college student and live 5 minutes off campus so the bike wont depreciate that fast.

I appreciate everyones suggestions. I dont mind spending a little more on certain parts, as i see them to be more important than others (hence the $150 rims I bought). 

Now I do plan on getting the Origin 8 single speed crank set, the 46t. which is around $80. WIll that be a good match with my shimano 16t freewheel? 

I read origin 8's pedals are not very good, so maybe a suggestion on pedals too? Nothing to fancy


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

David Loving said:


> I think I am being helpful. I was not aware that I broke any forum rules. If I did then I apologize! The bike started out with center pulls, or so the photos suggest. He can find cheaper center pulls or rehabilitate the ones the has. The one in his photo looks usable to me. I do not think he ought to go to side pulls because they are not period correct. I agree with you that a Shimano freewheel would work fine on this build, but he ought to know what's out there. $175.00 limit is a bit unreasonable, true. A WI crankset would not work on this build IMO. A WI freewheel is the best one can buy and it does not hurt OP to know about them. If he does not want to spend the money he won't. He is doing very well on his own.


I agree completely, David.
We are only trying to help and suggesting things we are happy with ourselves.
Pick, choose and refuse...it doesn't hurt to know about options.
john


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

For pedals, there are a few approaches.

The biggest thing is toe clips or not. If you're doing toe clips, either some $15 pedals or something like this.
MKS Touring/XC Pedals

If you're not doing toe clips, BMX pedals are the way to go. Lots more platform, and some grippy nub things to help you not slide around. I have Redline Alloy pedals. They're cheap, $15ish also. Or spend more on something with nicer bearings.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

AndrwSwitch said:


> For pedals, there are a few approaches.
> 
> The biggest thing is toe clips or not. If you're doing toe clips, either some $15 pedals or something like this.
> MKS Touring/XC Pedals
> ...


I have 2 sets of used Speedplay X2's you can have free, but would require cycling shoes and cleats. Probably not much help.
john


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

9/16" Bicycle Pedals and Shoes from Harris Cyclery


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Update

New handlebar tape and brake levers


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## DazzyBee (Jul 18, 2012)

.....


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Wait a second, are those guillotine levers? Huh. I never would have thought of going with those.

As for the Origin 8 chainring mating with a Shimano freewheel you're fine. When your building up a single speed the question of chain compatibility is a simple one. You're either going to be using 1/8" components or 3/36" components. You can mix them, but you always need to match your chain to the widest component in your drivetrain. I run 1/8" stuff because, well, it's what I could find at the time. There are arguments back and forth about the pros and cons of each. Since you already have the freewheel in hand I'd recommend you match that for the rest of your gear. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing finished.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Yes there curved brake levers from Dia-Compe 

Dia-Compe DC 139 Curved Brake Lever - Black [188-180-06] : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle

I stumbled across a picture of them on bull horn handlebars, and thought they would look fantastic on my drop bars. Keeping with the retro 

Im going to order the crankset and chain and I was thinking this for the chain:

Izumi Eco Track Chain - Gold [469-092-13] : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle

And I have yet to measure my wheels for brakes. As to whether I should get long reach brakes or not but was considering this:

TEKTRO R736 Long Reach Caliper Set - Black [451-122-06] : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle

Thoughts?


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Oh and for the bottom bracket, the: Shimano BB-UN55 English thread, 68 mm width (107mm spindle length) from Bicycle Bottom Bracket Parts from Harris Cyclery


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

The BB-UN55 is the bottom bracket we established will give you the chainline you desire. As for the chain choice, it will work. You could go cheaper, or you could go pricier. In either case you're just getting a chain. Izumi chains, as far as I know, are good stuff. I'm using an el-cheapo SRAM PC-1. I bought it for $7 and it's working great a couple years later. The brakes you picked should work fine _if the reach is right_. Measure it first to be sure, then check the specs on the brake calipers. If you don't have a metric measuring tape or ruler just do it in imperial (inches) and convert it here. Those calipers have 47mm to 57mm of reach. You don't want to overshoot the brake surface on your rims. The Tektro R540 has 39mm to 51mm of reach, just so you know. In any case, buy the ones that fit.


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Here it is! All the parts on! Except the brakes and brake cables! Went riding on it today around campus. Ride is soo smooth and fluid. Not being able to brake was a little scary though hah


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Oh, and I just want to thank everyone here for helping me with this project. Couldnt of done it without you


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

One more thing. I measured the reach from the center of the hole to the center of the bike rim. The front is a mark or two over 2 1/2 inches

The back is a mark or two under 2 1/2 inches. 

What length brakes should i be looking for? 70 mm reach?


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

For converting your measurements I suggest bookmarking this page. Thank me later.

You say your front reach is "one mark over 2 1/2 inches" which I'm guessing means 2 17/32". That or it might me 2 9/16". To convert that to metric all you have to do is calculate the fraction into decimal. Divide the numerator by the denominator to get a decimal expression. In this case it is as follows:

17/32 = 0.53125
9/16 = 0.5625

So your front brake is either 2.53125" or 2.5625". Plug it into the metric converter linked above and you get 64.2938mm and 65.0875mm respectively. Looks like your guess of needing 70mm reach brakes was pretty darn close. Next time you can follow the steps and take out any guess work.

The bike looks great, but I'm glad to know you're still planning on getting brakes!


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Okay so ive found these: Tektro R559 Long Reach Caliper Set

TEKTRO R559 Long Reach Caliper Set - Black [451-171-06] : • Milwaukee Bicycle Co. • Ben's Cycle

Opinions?


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

The Tektro would do well, but so might the Dia Compe BRS202. I haven't used either personally, but they both look pretty nice to me.


Scratch all that. The Dia Compes are being sold separately and with cheaper brake pads. Go for the Tektros.They'll give you the adjust-ability you need to catch both your front and rear rims. The Compes are more expensive for the pair, and the next step up I'm aware of would be a lot more money.


Edit: pulling my head out of my arse


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

The project is turning out one very nice bike


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## MS150Rider66 (Apr 30, 2009)

UrbanPrimitive said:


> For converting your measurements I suggest bookmarking this page. Thank me later.
> 
> You say your front reach is "one mark over 2 1/2 inches" which I'm guessing means 2 17/32". That or it might me 2 9/16". To convert that to metric all you have to do is calculate the fraction into decimal. Divide the numerator by the denominator to get a decimal expression. In this case it is as follows:
> 
> ...


Thank you for posting that conversion site for numbers. And to you odu ,Great job and really like the natural frame look.Enjoy your journey now


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## markaitch (Nov 3, 2010)

hindsight is 20/20 but it is a shame there was no thought or mention of 27" wheels at the beginning of your project to avoid this need for less common extra long reach calipers that op is facing now.

hard to tell from your pics but considering the age on your frame & the look of the old brake...before buying any calipers, you need to double-check whether or not recessed nuts will fit. you may be better off buying regular nutted calipers if you don't want to do any drilling. fyi, tektro r559s do come either way. another alternative is bmx brakes from pyramid, odyssey or even dia-compe, which can be pretty inexpensive, come in 73mm-ish reach, are regular nutted, but for the most part are single-pivot.

have fun & good luck...


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Well i already bought these two days ago. 

Tektro R559 Brake Calipers 55-73mm Long Reach Front&Rear Set WHITE Pair NEW | eBay

Hopefully they will fit. If not, i will have to find someone around town to drill the holes a little bigger for me for I do not have the proper tools


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

just dropped it off at my LBS. The guy said he could put them on for me so no worries


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

COMPLETED BIKE!! 

Just picked it up from the lbs today, and it looks awesome!


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

one more pic


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## AhohmODU (Jun 5, 2012)

Thanks again for everyone's help and input! couldnt of done it without you


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

AhohmODU said:


> Thanks again for everyone's help and input! couldnt of done it without you


great job....now we need a ride report


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