# Mileage - When should you change your chain?



## Defy3Guy (Mar 31, 2012)

1600 miles on my current chain. When should I change it? What does it feel like when your pedaling? I'm prepping for my first century Memorial Day weekend.


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## theBreeze (Jan 7, 2002)

Typical recommendation is 3000 miles. A worn chain can affect shifting. If you have any concerns, check it. Here's a nice little tool to do it. Park Tool Chain Wear Indicator.


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## jmitro (Jun 29, 2011)

i wouldn't even worry about mileage. 
just keep it clean, lubed, and use the indicator above.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Mileage is meaningless, because wear varies. And those chain checkers don't work as well as a plain old ruler. Do a search; this is discussed often here.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

JCavilia said:


> Mileage is meaningless, because wear varies. And those chain checkers don't work as well as a plain old ruler. Do a search; this is discussed often here.



How can that be? They basically are a ruler.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

Defy3Guy said:


> 1600 miles on my current chain. When should I change it? What does it feel like when your pedaling? I'm prepping for my first century Memorial Day weekend.


There is no simple mileage rule, it all depends. Modern road chains can last anywhere between 1500 to 6000 miles at least, and a badly worn-out chain may not feel much different from a good one. As others have recommended, learn how to check for chain wear.


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## tntyz (Nov 6, 2011)

My chains last about 1500 miles. I use a chain checker tool - it's easier for me to use than a ruler. Especially if you leave the chain on the bike.

I definitely notice shifting problems when my chain starts to wear, plus the drivetrain starts to get noisy.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

Jay Strongbow said:


> How can that be? They basically are a ruler.


Good catch.

The argument here is that most chain checkers measure inside-to-inside on rollers; so they count roller wear / tolerance in addition to elongation, and so are less accurate.

However, the Park model above measures somewhat more accurately inside-to-outside. It's still not ideal to some mythical standard, but it will probably be a darned sight easier than using a ruler to an equal level of accuracy.


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## Liquoricepontoon (Aug 11, 2011)

I always thought that when you changed your chain, you had to change your cassette too. But I found out that as long as you replace the chain before it's too badly worn, the new one should work fine without jumping on the cogs. I just changed my chain after just under a year of regular use. I was told by my LBS that I'd been over lubing it, so it might have lasted longer had I been more sparing.


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

danl1 said:


> The argument here is that most chain checkers measure inside-to-inside on rollers; so they count roller wear / tolerance in addition to elongation, and so are less accurate.


Again, it depends. The above is the way you are supposed to measure Campy chains (otherwise you'd hardly be able to measure any wear at all), but the Park Tool still doesn't work well for those either (it will indicate that the chain is good when it's really overdue). So for Campy, the only way to check for chain wear is to follow the manual.



Liquoricepontoon said:


> I always thought that when you changed your chain, you had to change your cassette too.


No, rule of thumb is three chains per (standard) cassette.



Liquoricepontoon said:


> I just changed my chain after just under a year of regular use. I was told by my LBS that I'd been over lubing it, so it might have lasted longer had I been more sparing.


That's pretty much nonsense. Other than making a mess, over-_lubing_ won't hurt your chain. Over-_cleaning_ might, however.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

I use a steel ruler. Don't try and try to measure from the center of a pin, you could be a little off. I measure from the back, or front of the pin and line it up with the back, or front of the pin at the other end of the ruler.


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## Hooben (Aug 22, 2004)

Last year I logged in 2800 miles. This year I'm at 600 miles on the same chain. My gears skip and are sometimes hard to shift into. Time for a new chain....big time. On pay day I'm going to the shop.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Ease of use*



tntyz said:


> My chains last about 1500 miles. I use a chain checker tool - it's easier for me to use than a ruler. Especially if you leave the chain on the bike.


Most chain checker tools are inaccurate, and measuring the chain while it's on the bike is super easy.


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## scryan (Jan 24, 2011)

Pirx said:


> That's pretty much nonsense. Other than making a mess, over-_lubing_ won't hurt your chain. Over-_cleaning_ might, however.


More lube then necessarily generally helps to attract grit that increases wear..


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## Liquoricepontoon (Aug 11, 2011)

scryan said:


> More lube then necessarily generally helps to attract grit that increases wear..


Yes, that was my understanding. The LBS said a chain with too much goo on it attracts tiny particles of metal that rub off car brakes. A lubricant containing swarf becomes an abrasive paste that wears the chain and other components it comes into contact with. Regular grit also causes wear but it's these metal particles that are particularly destructive.


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## socalboarder (Mar 27, 2012)

First, I am fairly new to the sport, or atleat the technical aspects of it. Second, everyone keeps talking about using a ruler to check the chain. What measurement are we checking for? I've had the same chain on my road bike for 6 years and I ride about 500-1000 miles per year. From what everyone says looks like i need a new one as well.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Liquoricepontoon said:


> Yes, that was my understanding. The LBS said a chain with too much goo on it attracts tiny particles of metal that rub off car brakes. A lubricant containing swarf becomes an abrasive paste that wears the chain and other components it comes into contact with. Regular grit also causes wear but it's these metal particles that are particularly destructive.


This is the lamest thing I have seen today. Those guys are full of crap. 
Clean and lube your chain properly and you will be fine. A clean and properly lubricated chain will not attract anything to it.


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## skh (Mar 4, 2011)

so if i use a ruler to measure my chain with then what do i have to compare it to? i didn't take measurements of the original chain when it was new. do i go out and buy a new chain just for comparisons sake? that could be a waste of money if my old chain is still in tolerance. where are the standards found?


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## Liquoricepontoon (Aug 11, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> This is the lamest thing I have seen today. Those guys are full of crap.
> Clean and lube your chain properly and you will be fine. A clean and properly lubricated chain will not attract anything to it.


Yes, but I suppose the point they were making is that an over lubricated chain isn't properly lubricated.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

socalboarder said:


> Second, everyone keeps talking about using a ruler to check the chain. What measurement are we checking for?





skh said:


> so if i use a ruler to measure my chain with then what do i have to compare it to?


Measure like this...
Slow Riders- now even slower: Measuring Chain Wear using a 12-Inch Ruler


And here's everything you ever wanted to know about chain and sproket wear.
Chain Maintenance


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

skh said:


> so if i use a ruler to measure my chain with then what do i have to compare it to? i didn't take measurements of the original chain when it was new. do i go out and buy a new chain just for comparisons sake? that could be a waste of money if my old chain is still in tolerance. where are the standards found?


You compare it to the standard to which the chain was constructed. The standards were set about 110 years ago (really) and everybody knows them, and if you don't they're pretty easy to learn and remember. Half-inch. That's about it. One half-inch from one pin to the next. 24 half-links (24 pins) = 12 inches. If your chain is elongated by about 1% due to wear, the pin that should be 12 inches away will be about 1/8 inch too far away. That chain is shot, and has probably already damaged some cogs. If it's 1/16 inch out (1/2%) it's almost ready to replace.


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## skh (Mar 4, 2011)

thanks...learn something new everyday.


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## dcorn (Sep 1, 2011)

Interesting. So the $100 chain on my new bike might not even last me through a full season? That sucks...


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## GRAVELBIKE (Sep 16, 2011)

Mileage is essentially useless. Conditions, terrain, and maintenance will have more of an effect on chain life that just mileage.

Get a ruler and measure what should be a 12" section. If it measures more than 12-1/16", replace the chain.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

dcorn said:


> Interesting. So the $100 chain on my new bike might not even last me through a full season? That sucks...


If you paid 100.00 for a chain you got taken to the cleaners. 

Big time. :thumbsup::blush2:


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

tlg said:


> That's the cost of saving 10-20g.


 KMC X10SL is one of the lightest. You can get 2 for less than 90 bucks. They last about 4500 miles. 

I dont get 100 bucks for a chain.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

dcorn said:


> Interesting. So the $100 chain on my new bike might not even last me through a full season? That sucks...


That's the cost of saving 10-20g.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

tlg said:


> That's the cost of saving 10-20g.


You make that sound insignificant, but that's weight that is not only rotating, but shuttling back and forth at up to 3 or 4 times the speed of the bike, so it counts at least triple.;-)


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

JCavilia said:


> You make that sound insignificant,


I merely pointed out a fact. Nothing more nothing less.



> but that's weight that is not only rotating, but shuttling back and forth at up to 3 or 4 times the speed of the bike, so it counts at least triple.;-)


That's a whole other discussion. 
But... how much time do you think that 10-20g from the chain would save the average rider on, say a 20-70mi ride? 
Is that time of any significance for the cost? I dunno.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

JCavilia said:


> You make that sound insignificant, but that's weight that is not only rotating, but shuttling back and forth at up to 3 or 4 times the speed of the bike, so it counts at least triple.;-)


You are right. My gawd, that may be the cause of "climate change" all this out of balance screwing up the earfs row-ta-shun. :thumbsup:


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## Pirx (Aug 9, 2009)

dcorn said:


> Interesting. So the $100 chain on my new bike might not even last me through a full season? That sucks...


My Campy Record 11-speed was $80, and lasted 6,200miles. Dollars per mile, not so bad.



tihsepa said:


> I dont get 100 bucks for a chain.


Me neither. Maybe he was "supporting his local LBS"...



tlg said:


> That's a whole other discussion.


Yes, he was just kidding. It's 10-20g, period. The "rotating mass" thing was just a joke.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

tihsepa said:


> KMC X10SL is one of the lightest. You can get 2 for less than 90 bucks. They last about 4500 miles.
> 
> I dont get 100 bucks for a chain.


I got 5600 miles on the same chain. I clean it after every ride and use Rock & Roll lube.


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## lonebikeroftheapocalypse (Oct 23, 2002)

Dammit, chains don't stretch. The rollers and rivets wear which messes up the spacing causing skipping, funky shifts and worn out cassettes.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

lonebikeroftheapocalypse said:


> Dammit, chains don't stretch. The rollers and rivets wear which messes up the spacing causing skipping, funky shifts and worn out cassettes.


I don't know who you're cussin' at.Not one person on this thread has used the word "stretch," until you did. I generally use the work "elongation." When the pins and bushings wear, the additional spacing between them makes the chain longer, and measuring that elongation is a pretty reliable way to measure the extent of the wear that causes that bad stuff. The rollers wear, too, and that has some effect as well. Measuring elongation between pins doesn't directly detect roller wear, but since all the sliding parts are wearing at a similar rate, measuring elongation is a pretty good surrogate for all the relevant wear.


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## jmitro (Jun 29, 2011)

LOL, funny how everyone here has their own expert opinion about chain maintenance, cost, etc.

and to the guy who only got 600 miles on this chain.....it's more likely your derailleur (sp?) is out of adjustment or your cassette is worn.....not that your chain is worn.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

jmitro said:


> to the guy who only got 600 miles on this chain.....it's more likely your derailleur (sp?) is out of adjustment or your cassette is worn.....not that your chain is worn.


I believe you may have mis-read that guy's post. He said he rode 2800 miles on a chain last year, and another 600 so far this year on the same chain. 3400 miles would not be odd for a chain to start acting up, especially if there was some use in adverse conditions.


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## jmitro (Jun 29, 2011)

JCavilia said:


> I believe you may have mis-read that guy's post. He said he rode 2800 miles on a chain last year, and another 600 so far this year on the same chain. 3400 miles would not be odd for a chain to start acting up, especially if there was some use in adverse conditions.



ah, yes, you are correct. My bad. That makes more sense :thumbsup:


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## dcorn (Sep 1, 2011)

tihsepa said:


> If you paid 100.00 for a chain you got taken to the cleaners.
> 
> Big time. :thumbsup::blush2:





tihsepa said:


> KMC X10SL is one of the lightest. You can get 2 for less than 90 bucks. They last about 4500 miles.
> 
> I dont get 100 bucks for a chain.


X10SL came on my bike when I bought it, I was just commenting on the retail price. No way I'd spend that on a chain. 

And if it'll last me 4500 miles, I'll be happy with that.


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## bobthib (May 28, 2009)

I've notice 2 things when my chain is about ready. First is poor shifting performance, and second is a "rumbly" feeling when I pedal with power. It's a little difficult to explain, but it comes from the fact that, due to wear, the chain has elongated and now the rollers are hitting the top of the teeth notches on the crank, and then settling back into the valley between the teeth,

The problem with this second issue is that over time it wears out the teeth on the crank and cassette, and causes "sharks teeth"

I use the park tool shown above, and change out the chain when it drops at .75 Chains are cheaper than cassettes and chain rings, and I think we all appreciate crisp shifting.


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## castofone (Dec 24, 2010)

Those measuring tools are deceptive. As stated above they work by pushing rollers apart and measure chain elongation plus the wear of 2 rollers. The Shimano chain measuring tool avoids this error by pushing 3 prongs into the chain instead of 2. The first 2 are close together and push the rollers apart as the other tools do but the Shimano tool takes its measurement from the 2nd prong so the measurement is taken over a stretch of chain both starting and finishing with the rollers pushed the same direction thus taking roller ware out of the measurement. It's the one to get if you don't like using a scale.


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## jmitro (Jun 29, 2011)

This academic debate about the accuracy of tools cracks me up.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

jmitro said:


> This academic debate about the accuracy of tools cracks me up.


No kidding. Just get a damn ruler and measure the pins. Its not that hard and you dont need some lamebrane tool that may or may not work. :thumbsup:


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