# I am at a loss about my bike weight...



## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

Ok, I am not quite sure what to make about my bike weight situation. I tend to lean to the side of higher end components due to the weight savings and efficiency. However, for my CX bike and road bike, I am a little perplexed.

Currently,,, 

For the road: I have a Specialized Roubaix Expert (carbon 8r frame with full carbon fork) with SRAM Red components, Ritchey WCS carbon seat post, Easton carbon handlebar, Ultegra pedals, etc. 
With Zipp 404 tubulars: 15.6 lbs
With Mavic Ksyrium SL tubulars: 16.5 lbs

For CX: Specialized Tricross Expert (aluminum frame with full carbon fork), SRAM Red/Rival grupo, Ritchey WCS carbon seat post, Easton carbon handlebar, Egg Beater 4Ti pedals, etc.
With stock wheels: 18.6 lbs
With Zipp 303 carbon tubulars: 17.7 lbs

So, as you can tell, I have some pretty high-end and light weight components. I have seen other bikes for the road go below 15 lbs and CX bikes in the 16 lb range or lower. Are the Specialized frames that much heavier? It has to be in the frame/fork weight, correct?

If you have any thoughts or insights, please do share.

thanks.


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## asad137 (Jul 29, 2009)

What size frame do you ride?

Asad


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## LGD (Aug 14, 2009)

And remember, a LOT of people are completely full of it on what their bike weighs. ;-) Your's sound like real world, admirable weights.


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## Retro Grouch (Apr 30, 2002)

A lot depends on the size of your frame. I ride a 54cm and can get my '06 Madone down to less than 14.5 lbs with clinchers.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showpost.php?p=2181973&postcount=20


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

Retro Grouch said:


> A lot depends on the size of your frame. I ride a 54cm and can get my '06 Madone down to less than 14.5 lbs with clinchers.
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showpost.php?p=2181973&postcount=20



This is off the topic thread, but, Retro, how do you like the AC mag clinchers? I'm thinking about getting a set. From what I've read, they sound like great wheels.


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## Guest (Nov 9, 2009)

Post a complete build list down to the bottle cages, skewers, tires etc and maybe we can get you under 15.


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## Retro Grouch (Apr 30, 2002)

*American Classic Magnesium Clinchers*



ghost6 said:


> This is off the topic thread, but, Retro, how do you like the AC mag clinchers? I'm thinking about getting a set. From what I've read, they sound like great wheels.


Here's a short review I did of the wheels:
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/showpost.php?p=1633280&postcount=4
Alas, I had an accident a couple months back and ruined the front wheel. I'm on a quest for a new front wheel on eBay, but with no luck yet 

If anyone knows where I can get a hold of an older model (circa 2005-06) front wheel or even a rim, please let me know. I'll give them a *$50.00* finder's fee for their trouble


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## ghost6 (Sep 4, 2009)

Retro Grouch said:


> Here's a short review I did of the wheels:
> https://forums.roadbikereview.com/showpost.php?p=1633280&postcount=4
> Alas, I had an accident a couple months back and ruined the front wheel. I'm on a quest for a new front wheel on eBay, but with no luck yet
> 
> If anyone knows where I can get a hold of an older model (circa 2005-06) front wheel or even a rim, please let me know. I'll give them a *$50.00* finder's fee for their trouble


Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for a wheel/rim.


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## tedgrant (Jun 13, 2006)

Im in the same boat. You and i have more accurate scales than 90% of the folks out there...


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

kytyree said:


> Post a complete build list down to the bottle cages, skewers, tires etc and maybe we can get you under 15.


Road Bike build:

54cm Specialized Roubaix Expert (8r carbon) with full carbon fork
SRAM Red cranks 172.5 53x39
SRAM Red Shifters
SRAM Red Rr Der
SRAM Rival brakes
SRAM Rival Fr Der
Ritchey WCS carbon post
Specialized Toupe Ti saddle
Ritchey WCS stem
Easton Equipe Carbon bar
SRAM handlebar tape
Specialized rib cage H20 cages
Shimano Ultegra pedals

Wheel Options:
Zipp 404 tubulars with Zipp Ti Skewers mounted with Continental Sprinter tubulars
ZIPP 303 tubulars with Ti skewers

Tricross build:
54cm Tricross Expert frame (mostly aluminum) with full carbon fork (incl steerer tube).
SRAM Red cranks 172.5 single ring 42t with bash guard
SRAM Rival shifters
SRAM Rival Rr Der
Tektro Cantilever brakes
Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost
Specialized Phenom saddle
Ritchey WCS stem
Easton Equipe Carbon handlebar
Pedals EB 4 Ti
water cage has been removed since picture.

wheel options:
Zipp 303 tubular with Challenge 34 Fango
Roval clinchers with Specialized Houffalize tires
Neuvation tubulars with Tufo file treads

Let me know what you guys think of areas to save weight.

Pictures of the bikes....


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## Comer (Jan 13, 2009)

I think your bike is real world weight.


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## tinman143 (Aug 14, 2009)

do folks usually include pedals when saying the bike's weight?


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## Mdeth1313 (Nov 1, 2001)

tedgrant said:


> Im in the same boat. You and i have more accurate scales than 90% of the folks out there...



well, no. Or, it depends. Run an extralite ul3 roadstem (26.0) w/ schmolke tlo handlebars and you're talking 215-290g for both, depending on stem length/bar width. Cost a small fortune, but it's true. easton handlebars are pigs- their claimed weights are also out of line w/ reality, ritchey stems tend to be pretty respectable as far as weight goes. Sram rival FD switched for a campy chorus, tune bottle cages (or the 14g ripoffs from germany that show up on occasion on ebay for a lot less). carbon saddle instead of the toupe can drop anywhere from 30-90g. Even a control tech i-post or carbon comp will drop 30-60g off the ritchey seatpost (possibly more depending on length) and they cost less. lightning cranks instead of red cranks probably drops over 100g. Edge wheels instead of zipps- weights can vary, but my 1.45 w/ extralite hubs are 990g in 20/24 spoke count. Pedals, also carbon RD pulleys- which I've used on my red RD for 3 years now w/ no issues (changed the first set after 2.5 years and about 15,000 miles).

You can get way under 15lbs, not sure what that frame weighs either- it may cost you a small fortune, or a larger one-- is it worth it- probably not, but it's doable.


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## cpark (Oct 13, 2004)

mdutcher said:


> Ok, I am not quite sure what to make about my bike weight situation. I tend to lean to the side of higher end components due to the weight savings and efficiency. However, for my CX bike and road bike, I am a little perplexed.
> 
> Currently,,,
> 
> ...



You can get your bike to weigh that low.
It just doesn't make any sense financially, IMO.......


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

For a CX bike, I think these weights are pretty amazing. Not that you need to cater to your competition, but I wouldn't imagine your competitions' bikes are even close to the weight of yours. It might give you a little advantage, but probably wouldn't lead to results you'd notice.


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## herbn (Aug 22, 2009)

can you ride a bike without pedals? shoe weight is probabely the most important weight that's not part of the bicycle. Well, then there's the weight of your butt


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> It has to be in the frame/fork weight, correct?


Partly, yes.

Here's my 2006 Roubaix Expert. 

54cm Specialized Roubaix Expert (2006)
Ritchey WCS fork
Ultegra 6600SL 172.5 50x34 crank
Dura Ace 7800 STI
Dura Ace 7800 Red Rr Der
Dura Ace 7800 brakes
Ultegra 6600 Fr Der
Ritchey WCS carbon post
Selle SLR carbonio saddle
Ritchey WCS stem
Specialized S-Works SL bar
Specialized S-Wrap bar tap
Tacx Tao bottle cages
Speedplay Ti pedals
Dura Ace 7850 SL wheelset
Dura Ace 12-27 cassette

The bike is exactly 16.0 lbs with cages and pedals.


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

I have now upgraded my Roubaix to a Tarmac SL and have since dropped the weight of my road bike by almost 1/2 a pound now.

Going from an 8r to a 10r carbon frame helped a bit I would say. I am happy with the build.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

You could get lighter brakes & crank if you still want to lose some weight. Alligator i-link cables/housing are nice looking & lighter as well.


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

*I am not at a loss anymore - New Tarmac Pro SL*

I have since sold my Roubaix pictured above and have upgraded to a 2010 Tarmac Pro SL.

I am loving this bike.

As pictured.... 14.6 lbs. Wow!

I will focus on the CX bike later. For now, I will enjoy this new ride.


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## tedgrant (Jun 13, 2006)

how is the braking performance on carbon rims? 

what is the ride like on wheels that deep and carbon, im guessing they are super stiff as well


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

tedgrant said:


> how is the braking performance on carbon rims?
> 
> what is the ride like on wheels that deep and carbon, im guessing they are super stiff as well


With the right brake pads, the braking performance should be close to what you are used to with conventional rims. I use the Swiss Stop pads for carbon rims. They are great. I have not had any issues where I could not stop my bike in time. 

The ride is great with aero wheels. They scream down the road. You have to be ever cautious when there are heavy cross winds though. But, if you have the proper weight distribution over the bars, it is manageable. The wheels are stiff. They are a great race wheel.


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## AlexCad5 (Jan 2, 2005)

The Red cranks are heavy. Go with Easton or Zipps. You can also save a bit of weight on brakes. I switched to KCNC's from Ultegra and saved a 1/2 lb. Also your pedals are heavy. Switch them out with Keos or Speedplays. When you weigh the bike the speedplays will give a nicer figure, but remember, half the pedals are attached to your feet.


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

AlexCad5 said:


> The Red cranks are heavy. Go with Easton or Zipps. You can also save a bit of weight on brakes. I switched to KCNC's from Ultegra and saved a 1/2 lb. Also your pedals are heavy. Switch them out with Keos or Speedplays. When you weigh the bike the speedplays will give a nicer figure, but remember, half the pedals are attached to your feet.


thanks for the advice. Originally, I was concerned about my Roubaix's weight but have since moved on once I bought my Tarmac. I am happy with it as it is. I know that I could go super crazy and lose even more weight. But those last few grams seem to come at a higher price. I could easily swap out pedals for speedplays and lose close to a quarter of a pound more. I don't think that I want to any lower in weight right now as I achieved my goal of a sub 15 lb road bike after the upgrade to the Tarmac. I am extremely happy with the result. 

Now I will focus on my CX bike and see what can be done there.

Again, thanks for the comments and input. I always like looking into new things. I must admit that I looked up those Zipp cranks and wow they are cool looking. I don't think that the wife would like me to spend a ton of extra money right now on those. I have to keep her happy.


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## wvucyclist (Sep 6, 2007)

Wow, I've been trying to figure out how to get my bike under 19! I can't imagine not being satisfied with 15.6 lbs. I figured the cheapest way to get the weight down is diet, so I went from 10% body fat down to around 7%. I'm not a pro racer, so that's where I'm settling. That also makes up the difference between our bikes, though with my tubulars, the bike weight goes from 20 down to 18.7.


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## mdutcher (May 1, 2005)

wvucyclist said:


> Wow, I've been trying to figure out how to get my bike under 19! I can't imagine not being satisfied with 15.6 lbs. I figured the cheapest way to get the weight down is diet, so I went from 10% body fat down to around 7%. I'm not a pro racer, so that's where I'm settling. That also makes up the difference between our bikes, though with my tubulars, the bike weight goes from 20 down to 18.7.


what are you riding that weighs 20 lbs? I bet that you could get your bike a little lighter, if you are willing to allow your wallet to get a little lighter.

ultimately, losing that gut or whatever is a great way to drop pounds. a light bike does not hurt either, IMO.


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## wvucyclist (Sep 6, 2007)

Hehe, well, part of my problem is my refusal to use carbon fiber, and as much steel as possible (fork, stem, spacers, frame). I have no gut to speak of, but bike weight isn't that important anyways to me, obviously.


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## locobaylor (Mar 11, 2008)

wvucyclist said:


> Wow, I've been trying to figure out how to get my bike under 19! I can't imagine not being satisfied with 15.6 lbs. * I figured the cheapest way to get the weight down is diet, so I went from 10% body fat down to around 7%*. I'm not a pro racer, so that's where I'm settling. That also makes up the difference between our bikes, though with my tubulars, the bike weight goes from 20 down to 18.7.


How did you diet? I need some tips for losing some of my weight. I realize that everyone is different, but I was curious about what you did.
For the record, I recently did a body fat test in a float tank with a class at my college, and I have a whopping 22.4% body fat. That was motivation for me to start making some major changes.


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## wvucyclist (Sep 6, 2007)

I ran a pretty simple calorie deficit diet. For athletes we need to run a pretty complete diet, so none of the "no carb" or fad diets. I cut out anything fried, anything sugary though and ate small meals and reduced snacking. So, pretty much, I was hungry all of the time. It doesn't feel right, especially when exercising and riding a lot, but that's how I dropped the pounds.
There are probably some resources at your school to help you honestly calculate your metabolic burn, and you can pretty easily estimate how much you burn while you ride, so you want to be 200-300 calories lower daily, or whatever deficit you want to run. The trick is to be brutally honest with yourself. A buddy was thinking "gee, I'm a cyclist, I'm an athlete, I estimate my metabolic rate (how much you burn just living) to be 2500 calories." Then she would add the calories burned riding. The problem was, when it was calculated, her metabolic rate was around 1500 calories. So in the end, she was consuming 800 extra calories a day, and not losing any weight! Again, utilize resources available to you, if there are nutritionists or dietitians at you school that you could consult with. You might get some weird looks, a lot of people didn't like the idea that I was on a diet, and 22.4 is quite average for the non-elite rider.

Ride on,
Gef


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## skyliner1004 (May 9, 2010)

wvucyclist said:


> Hehe, well, part of my problem is my refusal to use carbon fiber, and as much steel as possible (fork, stem, spacers, frame). I have no gut to speak of, but bike weight isn't that important anyways to me, obviously.


lol steel?? Gl with that. You're pretty much stuck in the 19-20lb range...


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## pigpen (Sep 28, 2005)

wvucyclist said:


> Hehe, well, part of my problem is my refusal to use carbon fiber, and as much steel as possible (fork, stem, spacers, frame). I have no gut to speak of, but bike weight isn't that important anyways to me, obviously.


I am aftaid to weigh my bikes.
All steel with steel forks and stems.
I keep telling myselft they weight around 18lbs.


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## wvucyclist (Sep 6, 2007)

I had a Waterford RS-22 that was sub 18, no fiber.


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## c_kyle (May 28, 2010)

skyliner1004 said:


> lol steel?? Gl with that. You're pretty much stuck in the 19-20lb range...


Not true. Steel frames can be around 1200-1400g. With a carbon fork, sub-1500g wheels and normal light-weight bits, you can be around 15-16lbs. Throw high-end WW bits, and sub-15lbs is very possible.


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