# Looking to upgrade from a Trek mountain bike to a road bike



## robberry (Sep 11, 2010)

Hi everyone. At 26, I decided to buy a bike to cross train from my exercise routine. I'm 6'2" and about 170lbs, and am in decent shape. I used to run more than cycle, and this season, I've been running about 10-20 miles a week, and ride at least 40-60 miles a week. I bought a Trek 3900 mountain bike when I was living on Long Island, but moved to NYC a few months later (there's not really any trails in NYC). Every time I'm climbing over the Brooklyn or Manhattan bridges, I see road bikes flying past me, and I'm starting to get jealous.

I thought getting a hybrid would alleviate some of my issues and I test rode a few Trek hybrids (7.3 and 7.5 FX's) a few weeks ago, and they're not as light or as quick as I hoped they would be, even though they are much lighter than my brick of a mountain bike. Today, a LBS employee suggested I try a road bike, and although I was a bit uncomfortable with the feel of a shifting setup that is extremely different than my 3900 and pedal clips, I'm starting to think that jumping from the 3900 to a road bike is the right call for me.

I NEVER ride off road, but there are tons of potholes and debris on the streets of Brooklyn and Manhattan. Is that going to be a problem on a road bike? I know I can't ride over curbs, but how much abuse can the tires actually take?

I was ready to drop $500-600 on a hybrid, but now it looks like I'm looking at the $800 - 1,300 range. I'm not ready to put that down without doing my homework. I've had absolutely no problems with my current Trek, so I'm tempted to buy another one.

I tried a Trek 1.1, 1.2, 1.5 and a 2.1. After reading and testing, I realize that 105 > Tiagra > Sora, but how much difference will it actually make when I'm used to this:

3900

FRAMESET
Sizes	13, 16, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5"
Frame	Alpha Aluminum
Front Suspension	InSync Grind 1 w/preload, 70mm

WHEELS
Wheels	Alloy front, Shimano RM30 rear hub; Matrix 550 rims
Tires	Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"

DRIVETRAIN
Shifters	Shimano EF50, 8 speed
Front Derailleur	Shimano C050
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Acera
Crank	SR XCC-T102 42/34/24
Cassette	SRAM PG830 11-32, 8 speed
Pedals	Nylon platform

COMPONENTS
Saddle	Bontrager Sport
Seat Post	Bontrager Approved
Handlebars	Bontrager Approved, 30mm rise
Stem	Bontrager Approved, 25 degree
Headset	Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
Brakeset	Tektro V w/Shimano EF50 levers


Are the frames on the 1.1, 1.2, 1.5, and 2.1 basically the same? How much weight difference is actually in the frame on these bikes, and not on the wheels/components? If I'm buy a 1.1, and slowly upgrade to a carbon fork, lighter wheels, better shifters, derailleurs, etc., would that be a better option since that's what my original price range was? Or should I just save up a bit more and get a better bike right away?


The LBS was pushing me towards the 1.5. He had a 2009 model that he said has better wheels. Here are the stats for the two 1.5's that he would sell to me for $1,000 each:

2009 Model
1.5™
FRAMESET
Sizes	50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64cm
Frame	Alpha Black Aluminum
Front Suspension	
Rear Shock	
Fork	Bontrager Race, carbon; SpeedTrap compatible
WHEELS
Wheels	Bontrager SSR
Tires	Bontrager Select, 700x25c
DRIVETRAIN
Shifters	Shimano Sora STI, 9 speed
Front Derailleur	Shimano Sora
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Tiagra GS
Crank	FSA Vero 50/34 or 50/39/30
Cassette	SRAM PG950 11-26, 9 speed
Pedals	Nylon body w/alloy cage
COMPONENTS
Saddle	Bontrager Race Basic
Seat Post	Bontrager Race Lite Basic
Handlebars	Bontrager SSR VR Bend OS, 31.8mm
Stem	Bontrager Race Lite OS, 7 degree, 31.8mm
Headset	Aheadset w/semi-cartridge bearings, integrated, sealed, alloy
Brakeset	Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano Sora STI levers


2011 Model
1.5™
Frameset
Sizes	50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64cm
Frame	Alpha White Aluminum
Fork	Bontrager Approved, carbon legs
Wheels
Wheels	Alloy hubs; Bontrager Approved alloy rims
Tires	Bontrager T2, 700x23c
Drivetrain
Shifters	Shimano Tiagra STI, 9 speed
Front Derailleur	Shimano Tiagra
Rear Derailleur	Shimano Tiagra
Crank	FSA Vero, 50/34 (double) or 50/39/30 (triple)
Cassette	SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed
Pedals	Nylon body w/alloy cage
Components
Saddle	Bontrager Affinity 1, steel rails
Seat Post	Bontrager Carbon, 20mm offset
Handlebars	Bontrager Race VR-C, 31.8mm
Stem	Bontrager SSR, 10 degree, 31.8mm
Headset	1-1/8" semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings
Brakeset	Alloy dual-pivot brakes w/Shimano Tiagra STI levers
Components	Shimano Tiagra


The 2009 has better wheels, but the 2011 uses all Tiagra. Which is cheaper to upgrade, new wheels or new shifters/derailleurs? I definitely felt the shift was a much better setup on the 2011.


Thank you in advance for all your help, comments and advise!


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## evilduc996 (Jun 17, 2010)

I'm in the same boat. I'm currently riding a 4300 and getting a road bike in Dec or Jan. I'm torn between the 2.1, my LBS tried to convince me to move to the 2.3 for better wheels. The 2.1 @ $1395 the 2.3 @ $1695. At $1695 I've bumped myself to the Madone 4.5. Probably go with the 2.1 though.


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## robberry (Sep 11, 2010)

Buy the cheaper one, and upgrade later (as necessary). It seems like the cost effective way to make the switch, right?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Given your intended uses, before almost doubling your budget why not branch out some and test ride some other makes/ models of hybrids. Nothing against Treks, but there may be a hybrid that's lighter/ quicker than the FX's you test rode. Generally speaking, even a more expense hybrid will still be cheaper than a road bike.

The only caveat would be if you ever saw yourself doing substantially more riding (or rides of longer duration). Then, a drop bar bike does offer some advantages in that you can change hand positions for more comfort.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

The 2.1 and 2.3 move to a wheel that carries a warranty, however these wheels are quite heavy. (2200g / set vs. 1600-1800g for most durable training wheels). That said, most factory bikes in this price class do provide a fairly durable wheel.

I think if you go road bike, use the 700x25 tire and choose a tire with a reputation for durability.

I don't ride city street where I am but as with anything, how you do it makes a big difference. Use your mountain biking experience to get over the obstacles with minimal impact to the bike and you should be fine.

PJ brings up a very good point: keep trying out both hybrids and road bikes.


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