# Alchemy ELF hub



## mrob239 (Nov 9, 2009)

Does anyone know if this hub comes in any other colors than black? I'm hoping for it to be available in silver, but can't seem to find out. Also, does anyone have any recommendations of where to purchase it? Thanks


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## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

Silver as well. If you just want the hub, contact Jeremy at www.alchemybicycleworks.com He's the guy who designed them.

-Eric


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

Silver and red too... and you can buy them direct.


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

Here are the wheels I built a few weeks ago. ELF silver 20h 2x w/ CX-Rays front, CK R45 silver 28h 3x Comps/Revs rear, Kinlin XR-270s.

Since the pic, I've wrapped the rims with Stan's 21mm yellow tape and mounted up Hutchinson Fusion/Intensive tubeless tires. Awesome ride.


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## mrob239 (Nov 9, 2009)

Thanks for posting a picture, I couldn't find a true picture of the silver hub anywhere...the wheels look really nice!


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## dookie (Oct 1, 2007)

here's a good look at one...
(yes, that's a mac IIsi behind it)


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## roadbike_moron (Sep 22, 2007)

fallzboater said:


> Here are the wheels I built a few weeks ago. ELF silver 20h 2x w/ CX-Rays front, CK R45 silver 28h 3x Comps/Revs rear, Kinlin XR-270s.
> 
> Since the pic, I've wrapped the rims with Stan's 21mm yellow tape and mounted up Hutchinson Fusion/Intensive tubeless tires. Awesome ride.


How's your Stan's conversion holding up, and do you run them with sealant? I have the XR-300 and thought about doing the same thing.


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

roadbike_moron said:


> How's your Stan's conversion holding up, and do you run them with sealant? I have the XR-300 and thought about doing the same thing.


I put ~1oz of sealant in each tire, and probably have close to 1k miles on them, now. I weigh 195 lb and run 85/90psi f/r. The ride is very, very, good on chip seal and other rough pavement, and they really feel secure descending. Fantastic setup on our rough switchbacked mountain roads. I do seem to have to add air more often than with standard butyl tubes, but the ride is more than worth it. 

Watch the Stan's video for installation of the tape and tires. Do use soapy water on the beads. I had no problem mounting the tires, and inflating with my floor pump. I did have to enlarge and chamfer the inside valve stem hole (5/16" drill IIRC) in order to get the Stan's valve stem to sit properly. Just make sure that the conical rubber seal on the stem is against the rim hole.

One concern I'd have is that the Stan's 44mm valve stems might be too short for the XR-300. It's close, but works fine, with the XR-270. You could definitely screw on a presta-shraeder adapter, but that does add a small additional hassle. There might be some other stem options, too.


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## roadbike_moron (Sep 22, 2007)

fallzboater said:


> I put ~1oz of sealant in each tire, and probably have close to 1k miles on them, now. I weigh 195 lb and run 85/90psi f/r. The ride is very, very, good on chip seal and other rough pavement, and they really feel secure descending. Fantastic setup on our rough switchbacked mountain roads. I do seem to have to add air more often than with standard butyl tubes, but the ride is more than worth it.
> 
> Watch the Stan's video for installation of the tape and tires. Do use soapy water on the beads. I had no problem mounting the tires, and inflating with my floor pump. I did have to enlarge and chamfer the inside valve stem hole (5/16" drill IIRC) in order to get the Stan's valve stem to sit properly. Just make sure that the conical rubber seal on the stem is against the rim hole.
> 
> One concern I'd have is that the Stan's 44mm valve stems might be too short for the XR-300. It's close, but works fine, with the XR-270. You could definitely screw on a presta-shraeder adapter, but that does add a small additional hassle. There might be some other stem options, too.


Fallzboater,

Thank you for your feedback and reply. I run stans in my UST and non UST mtbr wheels, and they have been solid. I think I will give my road wheels a try.


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## boneman (Nov 26, 2001)

*Nice looking pair*

How much do they weigh? Nice looking build. Also like your CNC wheel building machine! Lol!


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

boneman said:


> How much do they weigh? Nice looking build. Also like your CNC wheel building machine! Lol!


Thanks. The wheels ended up at 618/829g f/r, or 1447g total, without skewers. The actual weight of the rims was 451g, which was just a little heavier than I expected (but much lighter than my Deep Vs). I wanted a light everyday wheelset that would be durable for my weight (195 lb) on fairly rough roads, and I think these are going to do the trick. 

Yeah, that machine comes in handy during the tensioning process, heh. They don't let me run it, since I'm just an engineer, not a machinist. Those guys have all the fun.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

red :thumbsup:


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

I've got Edge envy. They would be so choice on my Parlee Z3 (Edge tubing). I wonder if you can run them tubeless with tape, though?


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## jnbrown (Dec 9, 2009)

Zen Cyclery said:


> red :thumbsup:


So why are they lace 1X instead of radial?
The picture of the silver wheels are laced 2X.
Does it matter radial, 1X or 2X?


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

jnbrown said:


> So why are they lace 1X instead of radial?
> The picture of the silver wheels are laced 2X.
> Does it matter radial, 1X or 2X?


Crossed spokes put less radial stress on the hub flanges, which can be an issue for hubs that are not designed to be laced radial. The ELFs are fine for radial, but I prefer interlaced spokes for aesthetics. Lacing radial or 1x with elbows out (mine are the 2x, alternating heads) makes the wheel laterally stiffer, but I'm not sure if this could be detected while riding. Radial uses the shortest spokes, but the weight difference is very small.


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## mrob239 (Nov 9, 2009)

Has anyone been able to test the long term durability of the ELF?


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

As long as they've been available, they've been good.


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## MCF (Oct 12, 2006)

Damn I would love some of those red hubs laced with black spokes to Edge 45C rims for my 2009 Cervelo RS (black and red paint scheme).....


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

mrob239 said:


> Has anyone been able to test the long term durability of the ELF?


The durability of the ELF is absolutely excellent. Jeremy demands only the highest of machining tolerances which results in long term durability that is absolutely unrivaled. 

Roland


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## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

rruff said:


> As long as they've been available, they've been good.


True that.

I have one of the prototypes and it's as good as new.

-Eric


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

MCF said:


> Damn I would love some of those red hubs laced with black spokes to Edge 45C rims for my 2009 Cervelo RS (black and red paint scheme).....


And to boot I even have custom red edge stickers to slap on those 45s. That would look super sick on your Cervelo.
Here is a picture of the Edge 68s I laced up with the same red graphic.


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## Rajdog (Dec 9, 2009)

*... drool.........*

... I'm in LOVE....


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## MCF (Oct 12, 2006)

SuhNAP!!! Dang!! Too bed the Edge wheels don't have nipples. - Red hubs, black spokes, red nipples, and red stickers. SuhNAP.... The only problem is I guess the wheels would be pretty frame specific. Not that I ever plan on getting rid of it, but the RS doesn't come in black/red anymore and you never know when the carbon may explode. I would probably wuss out and go all black.....If I only had a big pile of $$$$$ lying around for a set of Edge wheels.


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## dookie (Oct 1, 2007)

Zen Cyclery said:


> And to boot I even have custom red edge stickers to slap on those 45s. That would look super sick on your Cervelo.
> Here is a picture of the Edge 68s I laced up with the same red graphic.


holy *crap* are these wheels ever awesome.

put a silver elf in front and run 'em on a red time and, well, dang!


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## mimason (Oct 7, 2006)

just remove the yellow valve cap and you're golden.


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## mrob239 (Nov 9, 2009)

Zen Cyclery said:


> The durability of the ELF is absolutely excellent



In the case that they do need to be serviced though for whatever reason, are their any special tools that need to be used to overhaul them, or just standard tools?


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

mrob239 said:


> In the case that they do need to be serviced though for whatever reason, are their any special tools that need to be used to overhaul them, or just standard tools?


The serviceability of the Alchemys is quite easy. Replacing the bearings is a breeze. The only thing that is not so easy to do is switch the freehub body out (btwn Campy and Shimnano). But if you are dedicated to one or the other than you wont have any issues whatsoever.


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## dookie (Oct 1, 2007)

mimason said:


> just remove the yellow valve cap and you're golden.


but it matches the swissstop pads...

[and without it, how could i in fact be 'golden'?]


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