# Front Left Shimano Shifter Freezing?



## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

just got my bike redone with new housing and cables a few weeks ago at my LBS.. and ive been seeing some problems...

SHIMANO ULTEGRA 10 shifters... sometimes my left shifter freezes up and i cant shift from my big to small chain ring.. when i press the lever in... it wont click feels... like its stuck... when i apply firm pressure it feels like ill break it... then i dont know how.. but later on i get it un-stuck and it will shift up and down fine... seems hard to replicate... as it is right now its stuck again... and i will leave it alone until i fix it.

one of the LBS mechanics checked the derailleur cables seem fine... said it could be something with the shifters but told me to come back later to see another tech who could better help me out with it...

just wanna come here and ask the forum and if anyone knows anything that i could have possibly overlooked please let me know.. :idea:


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Things to try*



thedips said:


> sometimes my left shifter freezes up and i cant shift from my big to small chain ring.. when i press the lever in... it wont click feels... like its stuck... when i apply firm pressure it feels like ill break it... then i dont know how.. but later on i get it un-stuck and it will shift up and down fine... seems hard to replicate... as it is right now its stuck again.


Is this one of those situations where you can shift back in the other direction and then get it to work? This is an occasional problem with Campy front shifters, but it is quickly fixed by shifting back and forth. Assuming the cables were properly done by your shop, the only standard fix for Shimano shifters is to flush them out with solvent or aerosol lube (like TriFlow) while working them through the gears. If that doesn't work, and the cables are done right, then it might be time to submit a warranty claim.


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

Kerry Irons said:


> Is this one of those situations where you can shift back in the other direction and then get it to work? This is an occasional problem with Campy front shifters, but it is quickly fixed by shifting back and forth. Assuming the cables were properly done by your shop, the only standard fix for Shimano shifters is to flush them out with solvent or aerosol lube (like TriFlow) while working them through the gears. If that doesn't work, and the cables are done right, then it might be time to submit a warranty claim.



actually no.. shifting back in the other direction doesnt free it up unfortunately.... yes assuming that the cables are done properly.. ill have them flushed first.. i mean i they were working fine right before i decided to go put on a new chain/cables/housing.... 
thanks again


and does anyone know what the warranty is with shimano and their shifters?


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## the Inbred (Feb 28, 2004)

thedips said:


> they were working fine right before i decided to go put on a new chain/cables/housing....
> 
> 
> and does anyone know what the warranty is with shimano and their shifters?


somehow i've killed 4 9sp Dura-Ace shifters this year after replacing cables and housing. a couple Ultegra and 105 shifters, also. my favorite phone call to make is "sorry, but your shifter died." 

2yr warranty on Ultegra. shouldn't have to spray them out...doesn't seem like a spraying out issue, actually. they aren't triple shifters with a double set-up, are they? the way you describe it sounds like what happens when you force a 105 shifter to into the "third" position on a double setup. the tension on the cable becomes so high that it's hard for the shifter to release cable.


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## nintense (Oct 28, 2005)

*One more option...*



thedips said:


> just got my bike redone with new housing and cables a few weeks ago at my LBS.. and ive been seeing some problems...
> 
> SHIMANO ULTEGRA 10 shifters... sometimes my left shifter freezes up and i cant shift from my big to small chain ring.. when i press the lever in... it wont click feels... like its stuck... when i apply firm pressure it feels like ill break it... then i dont know how.. but later on i get it un-stuck and it will shift up and down fine... seems hard to replicate... as it is right now its stuck again... and i will leave it alone until i fix it.
> 
> ...


Try to flush and lube your front derailleur .


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## brblue (Jan 28, 2003)

*Another suggestion...*

For ruling out cable issues, you can unfasten the derailler cable, pull off the housing, so you only have the cable coming out of the shifter body. Then slightly pull the cable so there is some tension in it (gently!) And shift up/down a lot of times. If it works flawlessly then the problem is somewhere in the cables/housings.
If you get your shifter stuck then it's a shifter problem. Right now the best idea seems not to touch the setup and let the LBS check out the problem..

good luck 
brblue


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

double post...


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

the Inbred said:


> the way you describe it sounds like what happens when you force a 105 shifter to into the "third" position on a double setup. the tension on the cable becomes so high that it's hard for the shifter to release cable.



OK CAME BACK FROM TTHE LBS.. this is exactly it! but now hes saying that my FSA CHAINRING 50t (SUPER CHAINRING) is the culprit.. and i need a shimano chainring on my crank? does that sound right? hes saying its not ramped and pinnned properly to work? 

has anyone heard that before? and if he sets it to where it shifts up and down.. that its gonna freeze again... any comments anyone? do i really need a SHIMANO BRAND 50t compact chainring... i thoguht the FSA super chainring is better or atleast equal ..


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## andulong (Nov 23, 2006)

*Isn't this a new problem?*



thedips said:


> actually no.. shifting back in the other direction doesnt free it up unfortunately.... yes assuming that the cables are done properly.. ill have them flushed first.. i mean i they were working fine right before i decided to go put on a new chain/cables/housing....
> thanks again
> 
> 
> and does anyone know what the warranty is with shimano and their shifters?



I do not think you said how long you have had this bike but if you are replacing cables I am guessing it is not brand new. And from your own words it would appear that all was fine before they "fixed" it for you. HOW could it be the FSA ring?


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

thats what i was saying.. the mechanic at the LBS is now telling me because i have an FSA chainring with a shimano compact crankset.... that its not ramped and pinned... im looking at the back of it AND it looks ramped and pinned to me? am i missing something? it was working with this setup before... and the original mechanic that was working on my bike is on vacation for the holiday... hes telling me to put an original shimano r600 50t chainring so that it works with my crank and that it can get set properly... 

i have that chainring with a R600 crankset...


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## Wildstar87 (Apr 5, 2005)

thedips said:


> thats what i was saying.. the mechanic at the LBS is now telling me because i have an FSA chainring with a shimano compact crankset.... that its not ramped and pinned... im looking at the back of it AND it looks ramped and pinned to me? am i missing something? it was working with this setup before... and the original mechanic that was working on my bike is on vacation for the holiday... hes telling me to put an original shimano r600 50t chainring so that it works with my crank and that it can get set properly...
> 
> i have that chainring with a R600 crankset...


Sounds to me like you need to get another mechanic, this shouldn't have any problems at all. I don't have a compact crank setup, but I had a Dura Ace 9 shifter setup, with Suntour Superbe Pro cranks, with FSA chainrings. Never had any issues with this setup, and that is a lot more "bastardized" than your setup there. All the new FSA ring have ramps and pins, unless we are talking about track specific rings, so I call BS on your mechanic.

I would tell them, put a R600 50t ring on, at their cost if they are sure it will fix the problem and let you ride it, if it does than you will pay for the fix, or make sure they let you return it if it doesn't fix the issue.


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## Rubber Lizard (May 10, 2007)

The most likely cause is some sort of burr or kink in one of the cable housings. 
Check to see if there is some goo on your bottom bracket cable guide, as this may interfere with shifting. 
If neither of those are the culprits, remove the shifter, spray a bunch of WD-40 in there, then blast it with the air hose, this will get rid of any sticky **** in the shifter, re-lube with tri-flow. 

Your mechanics ring theory is bullshit. Go someplace else.


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## The Flash (May 6, 2002)

That's a BS excuse....

Sounds like they did not set it up correctly. I can see the pins on the picture that is posted above. Sounds like the derailleur is not set close enough to the chain ring and that the high limit is set in to close. I would make sure that the FD is about 2-3mm off the ring, and then loosen the outside adjuster screw until it throws the chain off. Start tightening it back in until it shift up fine without getting thrown over.....that should take 3 minutes tops....


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## bill rose (Jun 15, 2021)

thedips said:


> just got my bike redone with new housing and cables a few weeks ago at my LBS.. and ive been seeing some problems...
> 
> SHIMANO ULTEGRA 10 shifters... sometimes my left shifter freezes up and i cant shift from my big to small chain ring.. when i press the lever in... it wont click feels... like its stuck... when i apply firm pressure it feels like ill break it... then i dont know how.. but later on i get it un-stuck and it will shift up and down fine... seems hard to replicate... as it is right now its stuck again... and i will leave it alone until i fix it.
> 
> ...


well yes this is such a long time ago but I always believe in starting with simple solutions and working from there. I had a similar issue and put some chain lube in my shifter, leaned the bike over for coverage, wiped excess and wala its shifting quite nicely again. Will have to ride just to make sure. Normally if you live in a coastal place as I do then the salt air corrodes everything. Easy solutions first and then work from there...


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Please don't resurrect long dead threads just so you can pad your post count.


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## bill rose (Jun 15, 2021)

padding my post count is far from in my interest. but thanks so much for your kind reply. perhaps someone will learn that you can just lube your shifters for an easy fix. Anyways have a nice day. My second post haha


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

bill rose said:


> padding my post count is far from in my interest. but thanks so much for your kind reply. perhaps someone will learn that you can just lube your shifters for an easy fix. Anyways have a nice day. My second post haha


@*bill rose ,*

Hi and welcome. FYI, cxwrench can be harsh at times, but he is actually a very knowledgeable mechanic and if you buy him a six pack of beer every so often, he can be a soft cuddly bunny.


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## LongSimple (Jun 30, 2021)

bill rose said:


> padding my post count is far from in my interest. but thanks so much for your kind reply. perhaps someone will learn that you can just lube your shifters for an easy fix. Anyways have a nice day. My second post haha


Funny enough I currently have the same issue above with my Ultegra R8000 shifters. Will try the WD-40 + Lube route.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

LongSimple said:


> Funny enough I currently have the same issue above with my Ultegra R8000 shifters. Will try the WD-40 + Lube route.


I have a dead DA 7800 10-speed front shifter and am trying to figure out whether I can get new 10-speed shifters or whether I'll have to replace almost everything to get the bike functional again. I'm willing to change to anything that lets me keep the gearsets and chain.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Carbonman said:


> I have a dead DA 7800 10-speed front shifter and am trying to figure out whether I can get new 10-speed shifters or whether I'll have to replace almost everything to get the bike functional again. I'm willing to change to anything that lets me keep the gearsets and chain.


Have you tried spraying WD40 or some aerosol degreaser inside the shifter? They rarely 'die' they just get sticky. Try that before pronouncing it dead. You can find shifters online yourself if you take a couple minutes to look.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

cxwrench said:


> Have you tried spraying WD40 or some aerosol degreaser inside the shifter? They rarely 'die' they just get sticky. Try that before pronouncing it dead. You can find shifters online yourself if you take a couple minutes to look.


I tried the spray lube and everything else that's recommended for stuck shifters. Nothing worked at all. I took it into my bike shop and they checked, then agreed with my assessment. There are no new DA 7800 series shifters available anywhere and DA isn't repairable like Ultegra or 105. Rather than buying a used one that's going to fail, I want to go to something new, even if it's a pair of NOS Ultegra 10-speed or 105 10-speed.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Carbonman said:


> I tried the spray lube and everything else that's recommended for stuck shifters. Nothing worked at all. I took it into my bike shop and they checked, then agreed with my assessment. There are no new DA 7800 series shifters available anywhere and DA isn't repairable like Ultegra or 105. Rather than buying a used one that's going to fail, I want to go to something new, even if it's a pair of NOS Ultegra 10-speed or 105 10-speed.


Ultegra and 105 are not repairable either. Shimano doesn't make any modern shifter that's 'serviceable'.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

cxwrench said:


> Ultegra and 105 are not repairable either. Shimano doesn't make any modern shifter that's 'serviceable'.


Are there any shifters available that properly operate a Shimano 10-speed cassette? That's what I'm looking for. I don't care if I can get them serviced at a later date; I may buy an extra front shifter as a spare. 
I would rather not have to change out all the rest of the running gear. The rear hub is splined for Shimano and the wheels are no-longer-made Cane Creek 23C road wheels with Ti spokes.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

Carbonman said:


> Are there any shifters available that properly operate a Shimano 10-speed cassette? That's what I'm looking for. I don't care if I can get them serviced at a later date; I may buy an extra front shifter as a spare.
> I would rather not have to change out all the rest of the running gear. The rear hub is splined for Shimano and the wheels are no-longer-made Cane Creek 23C road wheels with Ti spokes.


The first thing I would do is try a different bike shop. I have a friend who had a jammed shifter and she visited one shop who told her the shifter was shot and needed to be replaced. They didn't have the part, so she visited another shop. This shop found pieces of frayed cable that caused it to jam. He got the pieces out, changed the cable and had her back on the road.

If it's just the front shifter and it really is shot, then just replace the front. Any 5600/6600/7800 or 5700/6700/7900 generation Shimano front shifter will work with your existing derailleur. You may even find some new/old stock on eBay, so check there.

If you can't find that, the 5800/6800/9000 generation and newer will require a new derailleur since the pull ratios are different. But front derailleurs are cheap.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

These are offered as Shimano compatible.

Microshift R10 Drop Bar Brake/Shift Levers (Black/Silver) (Standard Reach) (Pair) (2 x 10 Speed) - Performance Bicycle (performancebike.com)


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

velodog said:


> These are offered as Shimano compatible.
> 
> Microshift R10 Drop Bar Brake/Shift Levers (Black/Silver) (Standard Reach) (Pair) (2 x 10 Speed) - Performance Bicycle (performancebike.com)


@velodog this looks like it will solve my problem! I'll order a set and get my shop to do the installation. I will also provide an assessment in this thread when the whole debacle is finished and I can (warmly) ride here in Vancouver.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

@velodog I bought the shifters and had a good bike shop install them and put on new bar tape. The rear shifts about as well as the old DA 7800. The front shifts perfectly as long as I don't try to shift under any sort of load. The old setup wasn't a huge amount better so I'm happy. I just plan ahead or pedal really hard and shift when decelerating slightly with no chain tension to speak of. 
The hoods feel good, the shift feels good but the brake levers aren't pushed to the side during shifts - there's a long button in the hood that you push. Shifting effort isn't high.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Carbonman said:


> @velodog I bought the shifters and had a good bike shop install them and put on new bar tape. The rear shifts about as well as the old DA 7800. The front shifts perfectly as long as I don't try to shift under any sort of load. The old setup wasn't a huge amount better so I'm happy. I just plan ahead or pedal really hard and shift when decelerating slightly with no chain tension to speak of.
> The hoods feel good, the shift feels good but the brake levers aren't pushed to the side during shifts - there's a long button in the hood that you push. Shifting effort isn't high.


I'm glad they worked out for you.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

velodog said:


> I'm glad they worked out for you.


I mean, why accept shifting F ups? My SRAM and Shimano 9000 are perfect? I shift however I want? Whenever I want? Under whatever load I want?


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

PBL450 said:


> I mean, why accept shifting F ups? My SRAM and Shimano 9000 are perfect? I shift however I want? Whenever I want? Under whatever load I want?


Good for you; your bike is probably quite new and runs about a 53-39 crankset. 
The problem I dealt with was going to new shifters that worked with my existing 10 speed rear derailleur and cassette. I didn't want to go ahead and change everything out to 11 speed. 
The front shifter has always been slightly problematic because I have a 50-34 crankset and a braze-on front derailleur mount. The braze-on mount makes it impossible to get the derailleur down to the ideal height for the smaller crankset.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Carbonman said:


> Good for you; your bike is probably quite new and runs about a 53-39 crankset.
> The problem I dealt with was going to new shifters that worked with my existing 10 speed rear derailleur and cassette. I didn't want to go ahead and change everything out to 11 speed.
> The front shifter has always been slightly problematic because I have a 50-34 crankset and a braze-on front derailleur mount. The braze-on mount makes it impossible to get the derailleur down to the ideal height for the smaller crankset.


IRD Front Derailleur Dropper | Interloc Racing may work, or it may drop the derailleur too far fouling the chainrings, but it may be worth considering. They don't say how much drop it provides but they may respond to an e-mail with any questions.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

@velodog I'll order one and give it a try - many thanks for the suggestion!


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Carbonman said:


> Good for you; your bike is probably quite new and runs about a 53-39 crankset.
> The problem I dealt with was going to new shifters that worked with my existing 10 speed rear derailleur and cassette. I didn't want to go ahead and change everything out to 11 speed.
> The front shifter has always been slightly problematic because I have a 50-34 crankset and a braze-on front derailleur mount. The braze-on mount makes it impossible to get the derailleur down to the ideal height for the smaller crankset.


I put a 50/34 Dura Ace 9000 group on my last build two years ago. It works flawlessly. I learned a LONG time ago not to throw good money at bad ideas. It’s your build, do as you see fit. Piss $40.00 down the drain here... Then maybe another X dollar waste with shitty performance to show for it. Garbage in garbage out right? Putting crappy ill matched components on your bike will yield results like you are seeing. That’s cool, it’s not my business, but you need to accept the failure and the poor planning. You want to hack some kind of upgrade or change on the cheap then you get what you get, a drivetrain that doesn’t work. Good luck bro! Keep lighting $20.00 bills on fire and complaining that things don’t work.


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## Carbonman (Jan 6, 2006)

@PBL450 I think you're missing the point. I'm working with a 15+ year old bike and want to keep using it. I'm not going to buy a new bike and all the associated components for thousands of dollars so I can keep doing what is now casual riding. I'm glad you were able to build a bike that suits you and your current riding style. From your comments in this thread I somehow doubt that you will have that same bike in a decade and a half, especially with almost all the same components.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

Carbonman said:


> @PBL450 I think you're missing the point. I'm working with a 15+ year old bike and want to keep using it. I'm not going to buy a new bike and all the associated components for thousands of dollars so I can keep doing what is now casual riding. I'm glad you were able to build a bike that suits you and your current riding style. From your comments in this thread I somehow doubt that you will have that same bike in a decade and a half, especially with almost all the same components.


I hope it works. I’ll have this build for a very long time. It was made for that. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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