# 2011 SuperSix Hi-Mod fork question



## dhcp (Jan 18, 2013)

Hi Guys,

I picked up a newish 2011 SuperSix 2 Red (hi-mod, white/black) locally for a pretty stellar deal with only about 400 miles on it, looks new in every way and I haven't been this excited about a bike in a while. I had the heebie-jeebies about buying a used bike given all the thefts around here and I don't want to support that chain of stuff, but this one had everything including the original receipt from the LBS.

The previous rider cut the fork tube down ("slammed" as some say!) to the very bottom so there is no opportunity to lift the stem much. I tried flipping the stem, which helped, but I could still use some lift.

I looked at different rise stem options, the factor is +/- 6 degrees but I think I'd be willing to replace the entire fork if I can find a deal on one.

My question is if there is any difference among the SuperSix forks besides the hi-mod. I have the 2011 bike and I've seen 2009 hi-mod forks go secondhand for cheap and the paint scheme is kinda sorta close to what I have, but is there any real design differences or fit difference among the years? I get the feeling that the Evo is slightly different but among the 2009-2011 forks, are they pretty much all the same? If I pick up an uncut hi-mod fork from a 2009 will it mount up fine on the 2011 and have the same construction/geometry?

Thanks everyone!


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## Diopena1 (Jul 21, 2011)

The regular Supersix forks are identical, exept for the carbon fiber used. 
I honestly don't think you will notice a huge difference between the two, except maybe a few grams heavier on the non-Himod model.
You have to make sure its a tapered steerer tube 1 1/8"-1 1/2"
here are some of my findings:
Cannondale 700c Supersix Carbon High Modulus Road Bike Fork Tapered 1 1 2 1 1 8 | eBay

Cannondale Supersix Carbon Road Fork White Painted Tapered 1 5 to 1 1 8 New | eBay

Cannondale Supersix Black White Carbon Road Fork | eBay

I'd say to not go too crazy on the stem lift, you lose out on your reach, and may end up cramped up. Use this as a guide:

Stem Chart
you can plug in the info from the "old setup" and your "new or different setup", and get a visual of where your handlebars will end up also.


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## CHL (Jun 24, 2005)

Yes, it will work fine. I tried a 2008 Super Six fork on a 2011 Super Six HM frame and it fit perfectly. Ebay should have them and someone on this forum managed to get either an Easton or Edge for on their Super Six, although that required either a new headset or fork crown race (I forget which).

For a shorter rider, I have a fairly aggressive position on both my SS6 HM and CAAD9. However, I have never seen anyone but racers ride with the stems slammed down to the head tube.


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## Lil Dale (Feb 19, 2009)

System Six will fit too.


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## dhcp (Jan 18, 2013)

Thanks for the wonderful advice guys, I just picked up a HM '09 fork that was listed as a new-bike take-off that is uncut at 300mm for a measly $53 plus $10 shipping! I wouldn't have rolled the dice (I was willing to pay more) without the forum advice, so thank you!

Diopena - that stem site you listed is fantastic. I put in the values to compare the +6 stem I have now with a +10 and the difference in actual bar height is only 6mm. That site is great, being able to see the difference makes it much more real too.

CHL - thanks for sharing the experience - I wondered if maybe the geometry changed year to year, good to hear that you bolted right up no problem!

Dale - sounds like Cannondale used that exact same fork across models, just the graphics changed? Good to know.

Follow-up question - when I get this new fork in, can I just strip down all the parts on the existing OEM fork and put them on the new fork and just bolt it back in or are there parts you should always replace with new when you build it out? I'm going to have to source some spacers for the fork since I don't have any now, is there anything special about the size or type that you guys recommend?

I've switched out bars and stems before myself and have a good set of metric tools and a metric torque wrench, is this a task that one can easily do themselves or is it better off sent to the LBS? The only snag I see if that my cables look to be cut down to fit the slammed height and I might come up short once I lift the bars a bit...

thanks again for all the help and practical advice!


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