# Gripe: Madone barrel adjusters



## Road Hazard (Feb 5, 2011)

Small gripe about Madone barrel adjusters: they don't stay put.

The solution is probably going to be lock-tite, the blue version that doesn't lock necessarily but is gummy and sticky to inhibit but not prevent movement.

Even though the madone's cables don't go into a frame mounted cable stop, couldn't they work out some detents for the barrel adjusters to I don't have to twist my barrel adjusters before each ride?


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Does Trek make the adjusters, or is it your component group?

Take the rear, inline cable, one out. You dont need it, unless you are racing and changing wheels on the go-and even then it has limited value. There is a second one on the rear mech, and that should be sufficient for any adjustment you need to do. 

The front one depends on your level of comfort. Once the front mech is set properly, really you should never need the adjuster. IMHO the adjuster causes more cable tension issues, so I omit it too. 

Of course YMMV. 

As for the housing stops on the Madone, make sure you fully seat the housing in them. The brakes are easy, as you can use the cable itself to pull the housing home, but the derailleur housing is pushed on by hand. A little bit of grease or some dry lube may help. I would strongly discourage the use of lock-tite. 

HTH
zac


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## Road Hazard (Feb 5, 2011)

I'm almost sure that Trek makes, or at least supplies the barrel adjusters that go between the shifters and the cable stop where the cable enters the frame. I see them on Madones that are fit with Shimano although my group is Sram force.

I'm not sure I can get the tension of the front derailleur cable tight enough without the barrel adjusters, as it is I use a wrench and torque it down before tightening the bolt. Seems like I still need to use the barrel adjuster to get the right tension. 

I am still thinking of using blue lock-tite on the barrel adjuser threads (not the rubber seals where the cable enters the frame.) I think that turning the handle bars causes the barrel adjuster to unwind because it has no detents. If I wake up one morning and can't upshift the front gear I'll post that locktight is not a good idea.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Ok understood, you're going to lt the threads of the adjuster. Yes, that may work.

Good luck. (but still not a fan of them)


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## Road Hazard (Feb 5, 2011)

Well, apparently Jagwire makes those inline barrel adjusters...

They also make these:

http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Inline-Adjusters-Titanium-Pair

These look like they might solve the problem of having the barrel adjusters work themselves loose as you turn the handlebars back and forth. 

Has anyone tried these? I might put them on next time I have to reinstall bar tape and cables (try to coordinate that).


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Road Hazard said:


> Well, apparently Jagwire makes those inline barrel adjusters...
> 
> They also make these:
> 
> ...


Tape down your cable housing with electrical tape first. That'll hold them in place. Indeed it will also keep them from moving around, which could in part be contributing to your initial issue of loosening adjusters.

HTH
zac


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## Eric_H (Feb 5, 2004)

I just run one in-line adjuster for the front derailleur. After I had it set up, I marked the adjuster with a felt pen, that way I can easily see if the adjuster has backed off.


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