# Madone 2013 brakes



## ivanoile

So I have been using new Madone for a few weeks now.And everytime after a longer ride,both brakes are out of center and one pad pushes the wheel more than other pad(curving?).

And I have question about those 2 skewers (L and H),how to adjust those brakes ?
Because one skewer has to be loose in order to adjust the other skewer.
I have looked on internet but I couldn't find anything.


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## Jarred

Hi, I got my Madone 5.2 a few weeks ago and am loving it! I have the same problem with the brake adjustment, have poked around the Trek and Bontrager sites with no luck. Any help would be much appreciated.


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## jrob1775

ivanoile said:


> So I have been using new Madone for a few weeks now.And everytime after a longer ride,both brakes are out of center and one pad pushes the wheel more than other pad(curving?).
> 
> And I have question about those 2 skewers (L and H),how to adjust those brakes ?
> Because one skewer has to be loose in order to adjust the other skewer.
> I have looked on internet but I couldn't find anything.


The L and H have to do with leverage ratio of the brand brake you are using, Shimano uses the H and SRAM uses the L. Which ever one you use, back the other out before adjusting.

I set up my six series with SRAM Red today. I backed out the H screw and then used the L to adjust centering.

I hope this helps. :thumbsup:


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## ivanoile

jrob1775 said:


> The L and H have to do with leverage ratio of the brand brake you are using, Shimano uses the H and SRAM uses the L. Which ever one you use, back the other out before adjusting.
> 
> I set up my six series with SRAM Red today. I backed out the H screw and then used the L to adjust centering.
> 
> I hope this helps. :thumbsup:


Thank you,but I still don't understand why 2 screws.I tried few times and when I backed out one(I'm not sure which one) and the lever was much easier to pull.
I have Ultegra on my Madone,will try this


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## cxwrench

exactly like jrob1775 said...
the H screw is for adjusting the brakes if you're using Shimano levers. the L screw is for adjusting the brakes if you're using SRAM or Campy levers. back out the screw you're not using a bunch, and adjust w/ the proper screw. works pretty well.
obviously you're using SRAM brakes so you'll back out the H screw and adjust using the L screw.


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## ivanoile

:thumbsup:Thank you again:thumbsup:

I have tried this and the front brake is much more easier to pull now.Till now it was like i have hidraulics,and I couldn't pull the brake to the end.
Altough,the rear brake is very hard to adjust,especialy when my aero chainring is on the bike.
Rear brake is much harder to adjust.Probably will wait for the Dura Ace to arrive,and put on the bike.


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## cxwrench

ivanoile said:


> :thumbsup:Thank you again:thumbsup:
> 
> I have tried this and the front brake is much more easier to pull now.Till now it was like i have hidraulics,and I couldn't pull the brake to the end.
> Altough,the rear brake is very hard to adjust,especialy when my aero chainring is on the bike.
> Rear brake is much harder to adjust.Probably will wait for the Dura Ace to arrive,and put on the bike.


it's the same brake, it should adjust with the same ease as the front. i can see a TT chainring causing problems, but not the brake itself. make sure the piece of housing from the frame to the brake is 180mm long, this can make a difference.


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## ivanoile

I meant that screws are hard to turn,much harder than one on the front brake.

And today again,after 2 hour ride,my front brake was out of center.I don't know why,back home it was in perfect center.


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## cmclean3

so are there any 2013 madone riders out there not experiencing this issue and happy with the new brake placement? looking at picking up a 2013 5.2 (or otherwise a 4.5 or 4.7) with the new brakes and there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on them. a quick google found this which is pushing me towards a 4 series to avoid any issues with the new design, despite the 4 series being the old frame design...


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## ivanoile

@cmclean3

Madone breaks are good when you understand how to adjust them.
Front brake is ok,but rear is real pain.Because lot of things from the road stucks in them and it is realy hard to reach two screws.Mine after 70miles had something sticky on them,a lot of dirt.And brake pads leave black dust on frame which is realy hard to clean.
And you can change them only for Dura Ace brakes (9010),for now.


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## cmclean3

thanks i'm worried about the dirt buildup/hard maintenance/cleaning you mention and i don't imagine the dura ace brakes are going to be any better at preventing this issue. 70miles isn't a lot of distance. Seems like the design might have a few early flaws and i should look towards a 4 series with the traditional seatstay brake for now? Its annoying because the price difference between the 5.2 and the 4.7 or even 4.5 isn't that much. Considering the 5.2 has the new frame with slightly better components in places/wheels it feels like being safe and going traditional isnt going to be the best value.


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## ivanoile

5 series if you want to clean brakes after some miles,if you don't mind slow taking off rear wheel because rear brake QR doesn't work well on my bike,it's very cheap,

4 series if you want to have classic design of brakes,so everything is as usual.
But no Kamm tail,cables are outside


If someone ask me now,what bike would I choose,probably it would be the normal design.
I drive about 20-30 miles per day and I have second bike,Bianchi Sempre which is better for every day use,but for race Madone 5 should be great,at least my 6 series H2 was.


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## Captainlip

the 5.2 is exceptional value, I bought one on the back of all the tech, brakes, kvf etc etc, only place it really lacks is the wheels.

basic upgrade saves you 200g carbon bars save you another 100g.

I have the green machine and havent thought twice about my purchase.


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## cmclean3

i agree its exceptional value compared to the price of the 4.5 and 4.7 i'm just worried about the brakes being a nightmare. at the moment i'm going to purchase the 4.5 or 4.7 (hopefully this weekend) purely because i don't want to run the risk of brake issues with the new design. and it will give me an excuse to upgrade in a year or 3 if the design proves itself and sticks around...

thanks for all your input guys


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## Captainlip

I think if you can afford the 5.2 but are writting it off on the back of its brakes you are making a big mistake, the brakes are an advantage due to lighter frame at the seat stays, the brake at the front is flush with for thus more aero.

not one complaint from brake issues from anyone in the UK or US on the 5,6 or 7 madones brakes.

if I were you i would be looking at writting of a 4 series for the 5 series as its in a different league of tech.


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## ivanoile

@Captainlip

This brake won't make you more aero,at least you won't feel it.But you will feel mud in the rear brake and problems adjusting them.
Brakes QR is realy poor made,plastic feels like it's going to brake apart.
I told him,4 series if you ride a lot,5 series only for races along few rides.
Frame is aero,but difference between my Bianchi Sempre and this in ride is almost none,Madone is bit more softer for road.


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## Captainlip

I would write off the 4 altogether, the 5 frame is more aero, although you wont feel it as none of us are pro, either way it will benefit you here and there, the 5 series also has internal routed cables, the 4 doesn't. the brakes again reduced drag again wont feel it but its there, the brakes are really easy to adjust and setup correctly. I maintain my bike alot and the madone 5 is my year round any weather bike. so far in the gloomy Uk nothing had entered my brakes or cause any concern nor any build up of grime.


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## cxwrench

ivanoile said:


> @Captainlip
> 
> This brake won't make you more aero,at least you won't feel it.But you will feel mud in the rear brake and problems adjusting them.
> Brakes QR is realy poor made,plastic feels like it's going to brake apart.
> I told him,4 series if you ride a lot,5 series only for races along few rides.
> Frame is aero,but difference between my Bianchi Sempre and this in ride is almost none,Madone is bit more softer for road.


tell me how this brake will get any dirtier than a normal brake. and on everyone i've built (probably a dozen at this point) the brake q/r works just fine.


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## cmclean3

@cxwrench won't it get dirtier from the grime coming off the front wheel and being flicked directly onto the back brake?

@captainlip how often do you maintain/have to adjust/have to clean? i'm guessing more than a more common brake brake on seatstay. which isn't a problem if you are prepared to do that. interesting point you say that no complaints from the us/uk but ivanoile seems to have some experience with it and mentions what i was concerned about buying a 5 series


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## Captainlip

I work in a trek dealer and am aware of warranty claims for bikes, as for my own bike I cant see anymore build up that a brake in a normal location.


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## Lawfarm

I ride a pretty nice Madone 7. Project One, SRAM Red, Quarq, ENVE, etc.

I've put quite a few miles on it in the 1.5 months I've had it. Brakes have been perfect. No adjustment needed after initial setup. No issues with crap being thrown on the rear brake. From it's position, I'd worry more about crud from the rear tire than crud from the front. In any event, I've had 0 problems with adjustment and 0 problems with cleaning/crud.


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## cxwrench

cmclean3 said:


> @cxwrench won't it get dirtier from the grime coming off the front wheel and being flicked directly onto the back brake?
> 
> @captainlip how often do you maintain/have to adjust/have to clean? i'm guessing more than a more common brake brake on seatstay. which isn't a problem if you are prepared to do that. interesting point you say that no complaints from the us/uk but ivanoile seems to have some experience with it and mentions what i was concerned about buying a 5 series


how would it get any dirtier than a normal brake gets from crap thrown on it by the rear tire? seriously...go look at a bike and think about it.


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## ivanoile

Ah,I wrote my experience with this brakes.I drove this bike under sunny weather,maybe rain 1-2 times.And I don't know how,but rear brake was full of pieces of wood,leaves and something sticky.
I have about 750miles and this is my experience.With Bianchi I did this year at least 2000miles+ and I have cleaned rear brake maybe 3-4 times,by cleaned I mean remove mud.
I don't know why this brake gets everything from the road but I am not going to use Madone as training bike.


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## Jason rides

I have the 4.5, and I replaced the break pads with the larger Ultegra brake pads. I found the bike stops faster and when applying pressure with the brake levers there is a more secure feel as their is a larger contact with the rim. No need to replace the brakes as they work well, but the pads made a nice difference


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## jrob1775

ivanoile said:


> Ah,I wrote my experience with this brakes.I drove this bike under sunny weather,maybe rain 1-2 times.And I don't know how,but rear brake was full of pieces of wood,leaves and something sticky.
> I have about 750miles and this is my experience.With Bianchi I did this year at least 2000miles+ and I have cleaned rear brake maybe 3-4 times,by cleaned I mean remove mud.
> I don't know why this brake gets everything from the road but I am not going to use Madone as training bike.


This thread is pretty comical and I can't for the life of me understand why people are having setup problems and cleaning issues. In the 3 weeks that I've owned my 6 series Madone I have not had any issues with the integrated brakes. Let me clear up a few myths so others don't think these brakes are problematic.

Myth 1:
I can "feel" the aero advantage of the new frame design. Of course you can't! Moving the front brake in tighter and putting the rear brake underneath the frame is nothing you can feel. It does make the bike slightly more aerodynamic and allows a lighter and more compliant seat stay. It's a free speed...don't question it.

Myth 2:
The brakes are harder to setup, work on, and clean. Understanding how the brake works is key here. I've explained this here before so see my prior post if you are having problems. If you are having problems with the brakes staying centered put more loctite on the set screws. Because the brake is underneath does not make it magically attract dirt, debris, "sticky stuff", or molten lava. It's just as susceptible as if it were on the seat stays.

Myth 3:
The rear wheel is harder to get in and out. Yes the brake quick release is in a different spot up on the head tube. This makes it more convenient so you don't have to flip the bike over. It i plastic, but I don't see anyone breaking it unless you hit it with a hammer. Besides, How many times do you really need to remove the rear wheel on a road bike?

The new brake is a solid design and is simple to work on and clean, is lighter, improves the ride quality, and makes the bike faster. I don't see any problem with that.


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## cxwrench

jrob1775 said:


> This thread is pretty comical and I can't for the life of me understand why people are having setup problems and cleaning issues. In the 3 weeks that I've owned my 6 series Madone I have not had any issues with the integrated brakes. Let me clear up a few myths so others don't think these brakes are problematic.
> 
> Myth 1:
> I can "feel" the aero advantage of the new frame design. Of course you can't! Moving the front brake in tighter and putting the rear brake underneath the frame is nothing you can feel. It does make the bike slightly more aerodynamic and allows a lighter and more compliant seat stay. It's a free speed...don't question it.
> 
> Myth 2:
> The brakes are harder to setup, work on, and clean. Understanding how the brake works is key here. I've explained this here before so see my prior post if you are having problems. If you are having problems with the brakes staying centered put more loctite on the set screws. Because the brake is underneath does not make it magically attract dirt, debris, "sticky stuff", or molten lava. It's just as susceptible as if it were on the seat stays.
> 
> Myth 3:
> The rear wheel is harder to get in and out. Yes the brake quick release is in a different spot up on the head tube. This makes it more convenient so you don't have to flip the bike over. It i plastic, but I don't see anyone breaking it unless you hit it with a hammer. Besides, How many times do you really need to remove the rear wheel on a road bike?
> 
> The new brake is a solid design and is simple to work on and clean, is lighter, improves the ride quality, and makes the bike faster. I don't see any problem with that.


i agree w/ you 100% on all of this. i can't understand why people think it will get 'dirtier' or is harder to set up...
the way i set my brakes up (on the loose side) i never have to use the q/r anyway...if your brakes are so tight that the q/r makes things difficult, you probably need to rethink how you're adjusting your brakes.


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## Captainlip

well said!!! those complaining of brake issues and setup and dirt need to be shot or never allowed to sit on a bike again.


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## cmclean3

ok maybe i can add some further comments since my purchase on saturday... although not my first choice i ended up getting a 5.9. long story short, both the 4 series and 5.2 which i were keen on at different times were not available until jan/feb and the dealer and supplier were both able to offer me a substantial discount on taking a 5.9 that made it nearly the same retail price as the 5.2. so worth it since i didn't want to wait and i figure if i didn't like the design i would be able to resell for around the same price.

anyway on the previous comments:

myth 1: i know i can't feel the aero but the bike feels fast and i was a few kph faster on one 2km straight down hill section on my "slow" ride on saturday. it even felt fast on the flats - maybe part of the reason my slow ride didn't turn out to be very slow in parts.

myth 2: looking at the rear brake in person it really doesn't stick out as much as i first thought it would and i agree it shouldn't collect more dirt than usual especially from the front wheel. maybe the di2 battery helps a little here as well but after 70kms on sat there was little to no dirt anywhere near it... despite other parts of the bike getting a few spots here and there. its only been one ride but i'm pretty confident the design will be fine but i will monitor it and let guys here know if not.

myth 3: the q/r looks fine, i don't take my rear wheel off often but i dont see any problems here... touch wood.

it's only been one ride but the bike feels fast and is definitely a lot more comfortable to my previous rides. i don't know how much of this the new brake design is responsible for but it definitely feels like a good design so far. i'm just glad they weren't able to get a 4 series back when i wanted it because i was worried about the design...


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## cxwrench

you got a killer deal on a great bike, enjoy!


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## slowdave

Gday all, quick slightly off track question about 2013 madone brakes has anybody tested both the Dura Ace models and the bontrager version?
Do they both have a simalar feel, power, weight aero etc?
im coming off campy chorus skeletons and the bike will be set up with 11speed record so my plan is currently bontys but if the DA is better well.......


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## teoteoteo

Been on my madone 7 over 3-4 months now maybe more, bike is my daily commuter, has only been washed once on purpose as I am treating like a long term review--I do wipe down the top tube to get salt off. The underside of the bike/brakes is pretty disgusting. On the commute I ride on an MUT that often has wet, muddy spray. This far no degradation on performance, the cable housing will likely now need to be replaced faster but so far the brakes under is a non issue.


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## Golfster

Maybe they should give an IQ test before allowing people to purchase. I think there is a lot of internet folklore that spins and spins over a brand or a given feature which leads to an unrealistic bad rap.

-All my bikes have bottom brackets, yet I don't get anymore dirt build up there than where the brakes are typically located.
-I've put quite a few miles on demo 6's, and experienced no more "crud accumulation" by the bottom bracket brake than I have at the top position. Think about the rotation of the wheel - tradition setup is ground, then brake. This setup is ground, and then nearly a full rotation by the time it gets to the brake.
-Crud from the front tire? I'm sure anything is possible if one is riding through mud puddles. But how dirty does your crank get, and consider that has grease on it which holds the dirt?
-Most manufacturers have positioned the Di2 battery in that location. Yes, the battery is sealed, but the cover must be difficult to deal with if so much dirt and grime from the front wheel flies and land there. 
-The front derailleur is along the path of front tire spew, and has been for many, many years. OK, so not at the bottom where the brake is, but along the "flight line" of debris. No issues.
-Many TT bikes have the brakes at the bottom bracket.
-The new BMC TimeMachine (highend roadbike) now has the brake at the bottom bracket - same location as the Trek 6 and 7 series. 

Innovation. Some love it while others tear it down, and a few just can't comprehend.

If you ride in the mud, you'll get muddy.


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## frisbie17

I have a few months on my 2013 Madone 5. Rear brake every bit as clean as the front. Have not needed to adjust once. Awesome bike. Those talking about the flaws most certantely do not have one.


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## Samurider

*Weight of the Bontrager's?*



ivanoile said:


> @cmclean3
> 
> Madone breaks are good when you understand how to adjust them.
> Front brake is ok,but rear is real pain.Because lot of things from the road stucks in them and it is realy hard to reach two screws.Mine after 70miles had something sticky on them,a lot of dirt.And brake pads leave black dust on frame which is realy hard to clean.
> And you can change them only for Dura Ace brakes (9010),for now.


Hi. Do you have the new Dura-ace 9010 brakes? They weigh 307g for the pair. I've got the Bontrager brakes that came with my 2013 Madone. I'm trying to figure out their weight but it's nowhere on line! My frame hasn't arrived yet so I can't actually weigh them myself. Do you or anyone know? Bontrager website doesn't tell the weight specifics which is pretty devilish I think.
Cheers.


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## skibum126

Hi All,

does anyone notice any stutter / shudder with the front brake? is this just an adjustment issue? The brake does not make any noise, but I can feel it. The brake works and is aligned, it just stutters a bit. Any thoughts?

The rear brake is perfect and clean. Bike is awesome.

Thanks


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## frisbie17

skibum126 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> does anyone notice any stutter / shudder with the front brake? is this just an adjustment issue? The brake does not make any noise, but I can feel it. The brake works and is aligned, it just stutters a bit. Any thoughts?
> 
> The rear brake is perfect and clean. Bike is awesome.
> 
> Thanks


Make sure the breaking surface on the wheel is clean. I have not had any issues.


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## ejprez

Just got my 7, have to say its an incredible frame, but the brakes don't measure up...they work ok in my opinion but not nearly as good as my super record brakes. They aren't as smooth feeling. Will adjust and tinker a bit more to see what I can do


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## BlackKnight

ejprez said:


> Just got my 7, have to say its an incredible frame, but the brakes don't measure up...they work ok in my opinion but not nearly as good as my super record brakes. They aren't as smooth feeling. Will adjust and tinker a bit more to see what I can do


With my 6 series, the brakes were not that good "out of the box." Ultimately, with the changing of wheels to 2013 Zipps and application of the proper pads, the brakes are the best I've ever felt and if hit even moderately hard, you better hold on. They can stop on a dime if need be. I had some Easton's before that and the braking was awful. I think the mechanics of the braking system are fine, its just the wheels and pads that will make the difference.


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## ejprez

I agree they stop really great, even better probably if I switch out the pads to a shimano pad, salomon pad or swiss stop pad. WIsh I could switch the pad holders though. The bontrager ones for the rear one are offset so they don't hit the frame and as so a differernt set of holders would hit the frame. The front feels pretty good but the rear still feels a tad mushy, they aren't as crisp and smooth feeling as my campy brakes, chorus or Super record. I did experiment and turn the H screw in and backed out the L on the front brake and didn't really notice anything different, in fact, it felt like a smoother brake, but did that only in the stand, not on the road, maybe will give it a try tomorrow.

Update: did set the front with H screw and feels even way better than the L while using my Campy SR brake lever. Didn't notice any odd cable pull issues. The rear still feels ok, I noticed it is key to have the brake housing from the handlebar to the frame stop to be just the right length. I noticed when I turned the bar a little to the right the lever action felt a whole lot smoother. I do have the bottom one cut to 180mm as per the instructions. I may also get rid of the cable release and leave barrel adjuster since the campy lever already has the release on it, that should make the housing path flow better.


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## dew4rd

Hi guys,

An interesting read and much appreciated all the feedback. I just bought a 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 Di2. I have had SwissStop BXP brake pads fitted to the stock Bonty Brake levers. This has made the brakes a hell of a lot better than stock however I am still having a little trouble centering the pads.

I understand the L screw should be disengaged and I should be adjusting the H screw as I am running Shimano brake levers.

My question is what type of allen key or screw driver do I need? I find it hard to see down there to see what type it is!!

I tried my smallest allen key which fitted down the small hole but it didn't feel like it engaged.

Thanks


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## Ledipus

dew4rd said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> An interesting read and much appreciated all the feedback. I just bought a 2014 Trek Madone 5.9 Di2. I have had SwissStop BXP brake pads fitted to the stock Bonty Brake levers. This has made the brakes a hell of a lot better than stock however I am still having a little trouble centering the pads.
> 
> I understand the L screw should be disengaged and I should be adjusting the H screw as I am running Shimano brake levers.
> 
> My question is what type of allen key or screw driver do I need? I find it hard to see down there to see what type it is!!
> 
> I tried my smallest allen key which fitted down the small hole but it didn't feel like it engaged.
> 
> Thanks


The brakes that came on my 2014 5.2 use a 2.5mm Allen to adjust the H and L centering screws. I believe the 5.9 has the same Bontrager brakes so it should be the same adjustment. It does take a second to get the tool engaged and a feel for it. Each time I had to adjust I would put the tool into the side I had backed out and just to get the feel down, especially on the front where you can't see the head of the screw.


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## dew4rd

Thanks. Yeah i managed to adjust them with a 2mm allen key. I have backed off the L and adjusted the H however with the front brake i have to adjust the H screw every time i take the wheel off and on. Anyone else had this?


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## ejprez

dew4rd said:


> Thanks. Yeah i managed to adjust them with a 2mm allen key. I have backed off the L and adjusted the H however with the front brake i have to adjust the H screw every time i take the wheel off and on. Anyone else had this?



I have but only on the rear...my front stays centered. The dropouts on the fork are big so the wheel might not sit perfect all the time if you quickly take it on and off. So far for the rear I used locktite, Blue, on the H screw to keep it from moving. I left an allen key in the H screw and kept squezzing the lever and noticed as I squeezed the screw would turn. If this doesn't work I might get a tektro T740R brake.


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## dew4rd

Interesting thanks, I might try that tonight with the allen key in there while I squeeze the levers.

Has anyone tried the Ultegra or Dura Ace direct mount brakes as a replacement?


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## cxwrench

Shimano direct mount brakes are smoother and more powerful than the Bontrager brakes. I have the Bontrager on my bike and have built quite a few w/ the Shimano brakes, so lots of experience.


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## dew4rd

Okay thanks. I am thinking of trying the locktite glue as I think my rear brake screws are moving while I ride as when I got back in from my ride yesterday I had to tighten the H screw again to centre the pads.

Could anyone kindly give me step by step instructions on how to do this?

Thanks


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## dew4rd

I've bitten the bullet and ordered the Ultegra Direct Mount brakes. I will report back my findings


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## Aram

Looks like we have no choice the Bontrager brakes are pathetic. The dealer network in Sydney can't get them to work let alone anyone else. Trek should foot the bill for the upgrade.


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## tihsepa

Aram said:


> Looks like we have no choice the Bontrager brakes are pathetic. The dealer network in Sydney can't get them to work let alone anyone else. Trek should foot the bill for the upgrade.


You bought the bike. If you want better brakes, pay for an upgrade. 
They work if they are set up properly. Your dealer tech sucks if he cant get them to work.


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## Aram

tihsepa said:


> You bought the bike. If you want better brakes, pay for an upgrade.
> They work if they are set up properly. Your dealer tech sucks if he cant get them to work.


No worries. I'll pay $3700 for the bike then go and upgrade the brakes?!?


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## tihsepa

Aram said:


> No worries. I'll pay $3700 for the bike then go and upgrade the brakes?!?


Upgrade your mechanic. Or better yet, learn how to work on your bike. The problem is with the setup right? Thats poor wrenching.


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## cxwrench

As tihsepa has posted, the Bontrager brakes work just fine. I've been riding them for over a year and worked on tons of them. They obviously work best when set up correctly. If they're not centered they'll feel mushy. They're very easy to work on. "H" screw for Shimano levers, "L" screw for SRAM/Campy. If your mechanics can't RTFM and aren't competent, it's their fault, not Trek's. 

I'm guessing you have a 5.2? Shimano drivetrain? If so, back out the "L" screw some (careful, or it will push out the plastic block that covers the screws) and use the "H" screw to center your brake. Don't set them up too tight on the lever pull, either. That's all it takes...a 2mm allen key and a minute of your time.


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## tihsepa

cxwrench said:


> I'm guessing you have a 5.2? Shimano drivetrain? If so, back out the "L" screw some (careful, or it will push out the plastic block that covers the screws) and use the "H" screw to center your brake. Don't set them up too tight on the lever pull, either. That's all it takes...a 2mm allen key and a minute of your time.


This, except step one is to hit your mechanic in the head with a tackhammer and do it your own damn self. Or find a better mechanic.


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## Jason rides

I upgraded my Madone with Ultegra brakes and was surprised and the much improved performance of them. They really grip the tire strongly and slow you down faster. With the 105 levers and Ultegra calipers I am a happy man


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## cxwrench

Jason rides said:


> I upgraded my Madone with Ultegra brakes and was surprised and the much improved performance of them. They really grip the *tire* strongly and slow you down faster. With the 105 levers and Ultegra calipers I am a happy man


Sounds like you need to adjust your brakes...


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