# How often do you clean your chain?



## bikefreax (May 28, 2002)

I was wondering how often you clean your chain? I have taken the advice of others on this board to make my own lube, 75% mineral spirits 25% synthetic motor oil, and although I love this lube it just makes everything black in a hurry. I cleaned and lubed on Sunday and went for a 50 mile ride and when I came back it is pitch black again. Any thoughts?


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## fasteddie (Jun 20, 2003)

I use the same home concoction with the same results. I don't worry too much about it, although it is much easier than normal to get the dreaded chainring mark on yourself. I reapply liberally every 3-5 rides and work into each link/roller with my fingers, which seems to release any grime that has built up. Before each ride I just take a rag/paper towel and wipe off the grimy stuff. I'm interested in seeing how others address this.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*After each ride...*

I wipe down my chain and rollers after each ride using a home brew solution (3-1). I apply a light coat of the home brew on a paper shop towel and run my chain backwards through the towel about 10-15 times. This is the method that Lennard Zinn uses. I never pull my chain off, it never really gets dirty.

Lately I started using a silicone spray lube and use in the same method as above. My chain comes out squeaky clean and looks like it just came out of the package. The verdict is still out as to how this will work, with the home brew my chains last a long time, and I'm still on my original Campy Chorus cassette (14K). 

Keeping you driveline clean is a way to prolong your equipment. Riding conditions play a big role. I think how often you clean your chain is more important as to what you use to clean it. The home brew method is cheap and you can make a whole batch that will last about a year.


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## purplepaul (Nov 21, 2002)

I clean my chain after riding in the rain or every 500-600 miles, which ever comes first. I don't use homebrew. Instead, I use PsychoLube. Chain stays clean and quiet, never squeaks and, frankly, I could probably ride even more miles before cleaning. But that just doesn't seem right.





bikefreax said:


> I was wondering how often you clean your chain? I have taken the advice of others on this board to make my own lube, 75% mineral spirits 25% synthetic motor oil, and although I love this lube it just makes everything black in a hurry. I cleaned and lubed on Sunday and went for a 50 mile ride and when I came back it is pitch black again. Any thoughts?


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## divve (May 3, 2002)

Wipe down chain, cassette, and chain rings with a towel after every ride. Lube whenever it's needed - usually 2-3 rides and every ride when the weather is bad.


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## theOldMan (Mar 25, 2004)

I wipe down my chain and rings after every ride. Lube the chain after every 100km. If the chain feels gritty, then I go through a full cleaning process and then relube.


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## Spinfinity (Feb 3, 2004)

*Wipe it regularly, relube as needed.*

I wipe off the chain, gears and pullies every 100 miles or so. If it looks dry or dirty I clean it more thoroughly with air tool oil using the lube generously, brush, and wipe off excess method.


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## pedlfoot (Feb 3, 2004)

*Every 2 weeks...*

...I do a complete cleaning with Simple Green degreaser in a chain cleaning machine (Finish Line brand).Works great and only takes 5 minutes.I wipe chain down after every ride to remove any debris.Relube about every 3 rides; depending on the miles maybe more often.Keep the rings and casette wiped off to.Seems to work well this way Last chain I got 5k miles on before I replaced .I use Prolink lube which I like alot.I also like Triflow.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Here's the procedure to never clean your chain*

Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use: 

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back. 
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

If you do this every 300 miles or so, you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain. However, no lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.

Ways to make chains last a long time:

1. Keep the chain clean and well-lubed. It's the gunk on the chain that acts as a grinding compound and destroys the chain. I use ProLink, with the standard procedure, every 300-350 miles. This also means a quick re-lube if you get caught in the rain. IME, wax lubes do not meet this requirement.

2. Spin a high cadence. Those who stomp stress the chain far more.

3. Ride in the big ring when you have a choice. Keeping the chain on the larger cogs greatly reduces stress and there is less chain angle in the 53/18 than in the 39/13.

4. Ride in non-dusty regions. The grinding paste that forms on the chain is a combination of lube and dirt. If your local climate is dusty, this problem will be far worse and your chain will wear that much faster. 

5. Buy good quality. IME an SRAM 99 series chain lasts about 60% as long as a Campy Record 9. Cassette cogs and chain wheels wear at different rates too, and this influences chain wear.

6. New chain = new cassette cogs. Many will argue for frequent chain replacement to save their cogs, but the cogs still wear, even with a new chain. The partially worn cogs will cause faster chain wear. The math on chain/cassette replacement (for me) looks like this. Campy 9 speed chain, $25, Chorus 9 cassette $60. Total miles, 10K. Cost per 100 miles = $0.85. The math for people who say to replace the chain every 2500 miles to avoid wearing the cogs too fast: DA chain $24, DA cassette, $75. Assuming ZERO cassette wear (bad assumption), cost per 100 miles = $.96.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

bikefreax said:


> I was wondering how often you clean your chain? I have taken the advice of others on this board to make my own lube, 75% mineral spirits 25% synthetic motor oil, and although I love this lube it just makes everything black in a hurry. I cleaned and lubed on Sunday and went for a 50 mile ride and when I came back it is pitch black again. Any thoughts?


Thats precisely why I quit using home brew chain lube. Its a wet lube that really attracts grime. I much prefer Finish Line dry lube. Works well without attacting dirt. Use the drip bottle, not the spray. Drip in between each barrel in the chain. 

When I clean the drive train (about every 200-300 miles), I use orange cleaner (Zepp brand) from Home depot. You can get a gallon of the stuff for $8. I use it straight out of the bottle with an old tooth brush to scrub the chain clean. The whole process take 10-15 minutes.


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## scopestuff2 (Jun 19, 2002)

*Every 100 miles .....*

I clean my entire bike approx every 100 miles, including the drive-train.

This is my approach for the chain/drive-train:

==> Start: Dirty Drive-Train

1) Rag/brush with a citrus degreaser on the chain, cassete and chainrings (using care not to drip into hubs or BB). Then 
2) Run the chain through a 'Finish Line' chain cleaner with full strength Citrus Cleaner. 
3) Wash it all down with water and rag dry. 

== > Now the drive-train is clean and dry

4) Lube the chain with ProLink and do it link-by-link on each barrel. 
5) Run the chain 15-20 revolutions and through all gears. 
6) Run the chain through a rag to wipe off excess external lube so nothing drips..

==> Now the drive-train is clean, dry and has fresh lube.

This approach has kept my drive train looking like new for 2,000+ miles. 

Unfortunately, I'm still a nubie so I'm not sure what affect this has had on wear or even it's a wise approach. However, it's kept the drive-train clean enough that my wife allows the bike in the house <grin>.


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## commuterguy2 (Feb 23, 2004)

*Home brew may be hazardous to your health*

I'm not a toxicologist, but I think there are some on this board so I hope they will correct me if I am wrong. But, if I understand the warning labels correctly, mineral spirits are not something you want to be exposed to--you don't want to drink it, you don't want to inhale it, and you don't want to get it on your skin.

Here are some of the low hanging google fruit I found:

http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=16009016\

http://www.kinetronics.com/online-store/scstore/CCSMSDSData.pdf

http://www.nature.nps.gov/hazardssafety/toxic/minspiri.pdf

I use Pro Link, and have no complaints except that it costs a lot. (Especially since I like to clean my chain with a bio-degreaser, then marinate it in Pro Link over night.) Pro Link as nothing in the way of warnings on its label. I don't know what it is, but I am assuming it isn't as hazardous to your health as mineral spirits (per the above links).


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## JetSpeed (Nov 18, 2002)

I wipe my chain down w/a clean terrycloth rag and a little "dab" of jet fuel after every ride.
Lube w/a little Prolink each time or as needed. After a couple hundred miles, then a full cleaning.


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## Jett (Mar 21, 2004)

Dinosaur said:


> I wipe down my chain and rollers after each ride using a home brew solution (3-1). I apply a light coat of the home brew on a paper shop towel and run my chain backwards through the towel about 10-15 times. This is the method that Lennard Zinn uses. I never pull my chain off, it never really gets dirty.
> 
> Lately I started using a silicone spray lube and use in the same method as above. My chain comes out squeaky clean and looks like it just came out of the package. The verdict is still out as to how this will work, with the home brew my chains last a long time, and I'm still on my original Campy Chorus cassette (14K).
> 
> Keeping you driveline clean is a way to prolong your equipment. Riding conditions play a big role. I think how often you clean your chain is more important as to what you use to clean it. The home brew method is cheap and you can make a whole batch that will last about a year.


This might be a silly question, but how does applying lube with a paper towel get the lube in between the plates and rollers? (I think those are the right terms) From what I’ve read you only want lube inside the chain between the plates and roller not on the outside. If you place the lube on a towel and then run the chain thru it, aren’t you just wiping in on to the outside of the chain?


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## pavedroad (May 3, 2004)

I'm wondering why there shouldn't be at least a little lube on the cogs. Wouldn't that reduce friction when shifting, or is there enough on the chain to take care of that?


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## vo2 max (Apr 10, 2004)

*White Lightning*

I clean my chain with orange peels cleaner in a park chain cleaner,then I use a brush on the cassette and chain by spinning crank,spray everything down with water,wash whole bike,wipe it dry and apply white lighting chain wax.chain always looks new.


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## GravityChallenged (Apr 30, 2003)

*Agree with Kerry, except...*

I use Slick Willy Slick-N-Dry instead of ProLink. I found that it lasts longer in the wet, is as clean or cleaner (No gunk build up), and lasts about 300 to 400 miles between applications in dry, ideal conditions. Same procedure as below except I use only a very generous drop for each link. Allow the lube to "dry" for 10minutes, wipe off excess with dry rag, and away you go. 

For really wet sloppy weather, SW Slush Armor is the bomb. Clean and lasts a boat load of miles even in the wet, muddy conditions. I usually can get 3 or 4 very wet rides from one application before relube.

GC



Kerry Irons said:


> Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:
> 
> 1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
> 2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
> ...


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*home brew application...*

You'e right that lubing the internals of the chain is far more important than the outside. Keeping the outside wiped down helps keep the exterior dirt from being washed into the chain.

I use a mixture of 3 to 6 parts mineral spirits to one part synthetic motor oil to "clean and lube" the chain. Apply the mixture heavily, to the lower section of chain between the rear derailleur and the crank. Catch the excess with a paper towel (folded to 8 layers thick) held under the chain. Wipe each section of the chain, before rotating the crank to the next section. When the entire chain has been lubed, spin the cranks several turns, wiping the chain with the wet towel. The wet towel can also be used to clean the cogs and chainrings. Follow up with a dry towel. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes. The lubing should be done long before riding, to allow time for the mineral spirits to evaporate (otherwise it will splatter all over the rear wheel). Lube as often as you want and there will be no buildup.

I also never "clean" my chain. If neglected too long, just apply the homebrew twice.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

DO NOT USE WAX BASED lubes on your chain, your chain will wear out faster with that stuff because the protection only last about 50 miles-not even one ride! There are a lot of good lubes out there even some of the lower cost stuff like TriFlow and Finish Line, is all far superior than the waxed base lubes.

I use (not saying this stuff is the best but it works) Finish Line Teflon Dry and the Finish Line cleaning machine and cleaning fluid. I clean the chain and relube about every 200 miles. HOWEVER with the newer thinner chains I would be doing this after every ride, reason being is that the newer thinner chains do not last as long as the old wider style they had in the past for friction systems. I can get about 12,000 miles on the old wide style chains, but according to people on these types of forums that use STI and ERGO with the thinner chains get between 3,000 and 5,000 miles on a chain. And thats why I would clean and relube after every ride to extend the chain life.


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## wraith (Mar 22, 2004)

Dinosaur said:


> I wipe down my chain and rollers after each ride using a home brew solution (3-1). I apply a light coat of the home brew on a paper shop towel and run my chain backwards through the towel about 10-15 times. This is the method that Lennard Zinn uses. I never pull my chain off, it never really gets dirty.


Where did you hear or read about this method? I've read his book (at least the one on on mtn bike) and he discribes the old one drop per link, spin and wipe method in it.


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## jumpstumper (Aug 17, 2004)

Nonsense. Wax based lubes do not wear out chains faster, where did you hear that? As a matter of fact, an unlubed chain lasts the longest! Go figure.


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## AJS (Aug 7, 2003)

I do more or less what C-40 described with the synth oil/mineral spirits mix, and get great results. 

With the homemade lube, it's cheap enough that it can be applied very liberally, and it's very thin like water so I think it actually washes out any dirt or gunk. Once the spirits dry off, you're left with a very good lubricant that doesn't build up and require degreasing like wax lubes do.

I repeat every 2 or 3 rides.


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## Bikinfoolferlife (Aug 13, 2004)

*I've not tried this home brew stuff, I use*

Boeshield T-9 for both mountain and road for years with relatively good success. On the road bike I probably apply it every fourth or fifth ride (200 miles or so) unless it's wet out, then it's immediately after. I first wipe the chain down with a wire brush or shop rag, then use drip style bottle on the chain, run it for a bit then wipe down again. I haven't noticed any particular wear issues, other than the stuff will come off in wet weather (not something I ride the road bike in regularly anyway) and cause more frequent reapplication. I keep the cogs and rollers fairly clean with the brush and rag too.


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## HANK (Jan 9, 2002)

*I wipe*

down the chain and the bike, relube the chain (if needed) and derraileur pivot points, and inspect the bike and tires after every ride (30 + miles). Is that excessive? Maybe but I enjoy it and it gives me piece of mind for the next ride. It seems like the downtube and the back of the seatube pick up road dirt every ride so wiping down the frame with a damp cloth keeps the frame looking good as well.


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## bmateo (Mar 13, 2003)

HANK said:


> down the chain and the bike, relube the chain (if needed) and derraileur pivot points, and inspect the bike and tires after every ride (30 + miles). Is that excessive? Maybe but I enjoy it and it gives me piece of mind for the next ride. It seems like the downtube and the back of the seatube pick up road dirt every ride so wiping down the frame with a damp cloth keeps the frame looking good as well.


I'm with you... Maybe it's because of my MTB background, where you really NEED to lube every ride, but anything over 30-40 miles on the road and I reapply my lube. Right now I'm using Prolink gold (Icewax on the mtb) and it seems to be fine.

Some say it's expensive, but at around $5-$6 per bottle, and I'm getting about $2k miles per bottle, I don't think it is that bad. FWIW, I use a chain cleaner with simple green every few rides, or when it looks like it needs it... Never tried the homebrew route, it just seems at the low cost of task-specific lube, there is no real reason to play roulette with my drivetrain. But if it works for you (anyone) then go for it.

On thing not mentioned on this thread is that your location will determine your riding conditions, and different lubes might be appropriate for different conditions, so take it all with a grain of salt (but no salt in the drivetrain...)


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

jumpstumper said:


> Nonsense. Wax based lubes do not wear out chains faster, where did you hear that? As a matter of fact, an unlubed chain lasts the longest! Go figure.


Unlube chain last the longest? Do we even need to discuss that? When a chain makes noise wear is happening at a faster rate then normal because the chain is now making metal to metal contact with the gears. Wax based lubes last about 60 miles before the chain starts to make noise, that means ideally you should carry a bottle of wax lube with you on rides longer then 50 miles so you can relube. Wax lubes are cleaner, in other words they don't get that black crap going on, but that's only important if you don't clean your chain regulary.

Here's a thing that happened to me (and I know others this occured to as well). I had been using TriFlow for about 15 years or so when an LBS convinced me that Pedros extra dry was the best. My chains while on TriFlow would last an average of 13,000 miles; when I switched to Pedros the chain wore out at only 5,000 miles. So I thought, hmm odd, the chain must have been bad, so I put on a new chain and switched to White Lightening because another LBS said White Lightening was better then Pedros. Roughly 5,000 miles later the chain needed to be replaced. Both times I noticed the chain would start to make noises around the 60 mile range which had me concerned. So then I listened to another LBS and they said to use Finish Line Teflon Dri because any lube that wasn't waxed based would be better, and they felt Finish Line was better then TriFlow. After switching the chain now has about 12,000 miles on it and still good-at least for awhile yet.

Whether or not Finish Line is better then TriFlow I can't say, it seems about the same. But I do know that like TriFlow, the Finish Line Teflon Dry can go over 500 miles before chain noise starts. I actually experimented with it by not relubing to see how long it would go before noise started; typically I clean and relube about every 200 miles.

There was a while between the wax and the Finish Line I used a product called Speed Skate Lube (used on skate wheels of course), and it seem to work good I just didn't like the spray. HOWEVER, I had to get a new freewheel and about 8 months after I got it, it started to click loudly, so I hosed it with the Speed Skate Lube and now after 3 years it has not made a sound! So Speed Skate Lube is very good stuff.


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## shokhead1 (Jan 21, 2003)

Such a simple thing and half you guys cant handle it. Its not an engine rebuild,its putting on a little lube and cleaning the chain once a month or so.


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## FastFred (Aug 12, 2003)

shokhead1 said:


> Such a simple thing and half you guys cant handle it. Its not an engine rebuild,its putting on a little lube and cleaning the chain once a month or so.


LMAO! That's exactly what I was thinking. K.I.S.S., you guys!


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## AJS (Aug 7, 2003)

"Its not an engine rebuild,its putting on a little lube and cleaning the chain once a month or so."

It's a bit more involved than that, *shokhead & FastFred*, but it also doesn't have to be rocket science. If you put any kind of serious mileage on a bicycle drivetrain, you'd better be lubing it more often than once a month or so.


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## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

*Not silly..*



Jett said:


> This might be a silly question, but how does applying lube with a paper towel get the lube in between the plates and rollers? (I think those are the right terms) From what I?ve read you only want lube inside the chain between the plates and roller not on the outside. If you place the lube on a towel and then run the chain thru it, aren?t you just wiping in on to the outside of the chain?


Where did this post arrive from (the dead?)- anyway it's a paper SHOP towel, not a regular paper towel, it has a fabric type construction. I've run some through the wash by mistake and they come out like new and do not fall apart. I buy them in bulk in packs of rolls of 18 (they are blue in color, used in the automotive field). They work the same as a regular rag, but I can use a new shop towel each time. I just turned 4300 miles on my Wipperman SS, great method, the same that Lenard Zinn recommends....



You gotta read the small print...

Dino


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*prolink is mostly mineral spirits..*

A prolink factory rep. told me that the carrier solvent for prolink's "metal friction reducer" (oil) is mineral spirits. That gave me the idea to mix oil and mineral spirits about 5 years ago.


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## AJS (Aug 7, 2003)

Welp, I guess that solves the mystery of Prolink's magical "metal friction reducer". How ridiculous can a mfg. get about naming a common and simple ingredient?!?!

It's time to go use my "bipedic forward-motion apparatus"...


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## shokhead1 (Jan 21, 2003)

AJS said:


> "Its not an engine rebuild,its putting on a little lube and cleaning the chain once a month or so."
> 
> It's a bit more involved than that, *shokhead & FastFred*, but it also doesn't have to be rocket science. If you put any kind of serious mileage on a bicycle drivetrain, you'd better be lubing it more often than once a month or so.


Clean the chain once every 3-4 weeks but of course lube it more often. I run it through the cleaner every time i wash my bike which is about once a month or sooner if really dirty.I run the chain through a rag before i lube.In fact,i washed by bike last night and did the chain and drivetrain.Took 10 min to do chain,cassette,crank and the rest and it looks new. Never a need to remove anything to clean.


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## Bacco (Feb 19, 2002)

*Wl*

I use White Lightening. I've done up to 100 miles rides with no chain squeaking. I've ridden 70 miles in the rain with no squeaking. Once you build up a good base, it seems to work very well. I never clean my chain, I just reapply WL after each ride. WL doesn't attract grit like oils and applying it cleans the chain of any dirt that may be present.

It's the grit that is trapped by oil or grease on the chain that wears them out fast. A university study showed that an unoiled chain lasts longer than one with oil on it when used in a simulated dust-filled atmosphere.

Even if WL didn't protect the chain quite as long as the exotic lubricants, it's cheap and I don't have to mess with cleaning the chain. Chains are relatively cheap anyway.


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## jumpstumper (Aug 17, 2004)

*unlubed chains*



froze said:


> Unlube chain last the longest? Do we even need to discuss that?


Sure, we can discuss it. I recall reading a study done that showed oiling your chain induced more wear than an non-oiled chain.


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## BOppy (May 9, 2002)

*Wl*

How long do you get with WL? I switched to WL with a new chain (that came attached to the new bike ), and have gotten over 2100 miles so far with no noteable chain wear or stretching. As you say, chain is clean and trouble free.



Bacco said:


> I use White Lightening. I've done up to 100 miles rides with no chain squeaking. I've ridden 70 miles in the rain with no squeaking. Once you build up a good base, it seems to work very well. I never clean my chain, I just reapply WL after each ride. WL doesn't attract grit like oils and applying it cleans the chain of any dirt that may be present.
> 
> 
> It's the grit that is trapped by oil or grease on the chain that wears them out fast. A university study showed that an unoiled chain lasts longer than one with oil on it when used in a simulated dust-filled atmosphere.
> ...


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

jumpstumper said:


> Sure, we can discuss it. I recall reading a study done that showed oiling your chain induced more wear than an non-oiled chain.


OK, you go ahead and ride it unoiled.


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## HANK (Jan 9, 2002)

*I have*

had the best luck with T-9 Boeshield.


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## tarwheel (May 22, 2004)

*chain lubes*

I switched from White Lightning to Pro Link several years ago, and it was a big improvement. I ran out of ProLink one weekend and mixed up some homebrew (3-4 parts mineral spirits: 1 part motor oil), and it worked just as well for about 1/10 the cost. Homebrew seems to hold up particularly well in the rain, and it is so cheap that there's no reason not to relube often. It does get a little dirtier, but that's not a problem if you lube frequently and wipe off the chain well after rides.

To really clean the chain, the secret is to use a superlink like Connex/ Wipperman or SRAM. That way, it is a very simple matter to remove the chain and soak it in homebrew for several hours. It is also much easier to clean the cogs, pulleys and crankset with the chain removed, and it all works like new when you reinstall the chain.

If you guys want to spend $6-10 for a little perfume-bottle-sized chain lube, that's your business. But, speaking from experience, I can verify that homebrew works just as well if not better at a fraction of the cost.


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## AJS (Aug 7, 2003)

Confucius say: "A fool and his money...lucky to find each other in first place." 





And let's not forget:

1. Woman who go to man's apartment for snack, gets tit-bit.
2. Man who lay woman on ground, get piece on earth.
3. Man who gets kicked in balls, left holding the bag.
4. Man who kisses girl's behind, gets crack in face.
5. Passionate kiss like spider web ... lead to undoing of fly.
6. Man with hole in pocket, feel cocky all day.
7. Man who fight with wife all day, get no piece at night.
8. Virginity like balloon ... one prick, all gone.
9. Girl who rides bicycle, peddles ass all over town.
10. Man who farts in church, sits in own pew.
11. Baseball all wrong ... man with four balls no can walk.
12. Man who live in glass house, dress in basement.
13. Kotex not best thing on earth, but next to best thing.
14. Man with penis in peanut butter jar is ****ing nuts.
15. Man who walk through airport door sideways is going to Bangkok.
16. Man who drop watch in toilet, bound to have shitty time.
17. Man who take lady on camping trip, have one intent.
18. Woman who fly upside down, have crack up.
19. Man who go to bed with question of sex on mind wake up with solution well in hand.
20. Girl who do back spring on bedspring have offspring next spring


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## jumpstumper (Aug 17, 2004)

I do ride unoiled, however my chain is lubricated quite well - thank you.


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## shokhead1 (Jan 21, 2003)

jumpstumper said:


> Sure, we can discuss it. I recall reading a study done that showed oiling your chain induced more wear than an non-oiled chain.


Remember,dont put oil in your engine either.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

jumpstumper said:


> I do ride unoiled, however my chain is lubricated quite well - thank you.


I think your yankin my chain!!


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## AJS (Aug 7, 2003)

I think he's yankin' _something._ (?)


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

You may blabbering about confusion but keep these thoughts in mind and don't eat out of AJS's peanut butter jar when you visit him.

Borrow money from a pessimist-they don't expect it back.
Lottery: a tax on people who are bad at math.
Never answer an anonymous letter.
Always go to other people's funerals, or they won't go to yours.
No one is listening until you make a mistake.
He who laughs last thinks slowest.
Always remember that you are unique...just like everyone else.
There are three kinds of people: those that can count and those who can't.
A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.
Sometimes I wake up grumpy; other times I let her sleep.
You can't have everything; where would you put it?
Be nice to your kids; they'll chose your nursing home.
If you first don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
Ear right, stay fit, die anyway.
Don't steal; the government hates competition.
All generalizations are false.
If you don't like the news, go out and make some.
If everything is coming your way, then your in the wrong lane.
It's bad luck to be superstitious.
Ten out of ten people will die.
If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving.
Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time.


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