# Road to Flat Bar conversion - MTB parts on road bike?



## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Long story short -- I have an opportunity to put together a cheap and light flat bar commuter that can also handle some spirited weekend excursions, mainly from parts I have lying around. 

Now I need some advice from the experts here who may have similar experience. 

Proposed Set Up: 

Frame/fork: A Pina Dogma Frameset that's lying around

Shifting: XT M780 10sp shifters and rear derailleur (except the front der is braze-on so can a Shimano road front der work w/ XT front shifter?)

Crank: 6800 50-34
Cassette: SRAM 1050 11-32T
Braking: Ultegra 6800 brakes + Shimano BL-R4700 flat bar road levers

Wheels: a set of light Tokens with 28c Conti GatorSkins. 

Total weight will be in the sub-8 kg range. 

Do you see any compatibility issues above? 


PS: handling is always an issue for flat bar roadies, and this is a smaller frame w/ slacker head angle and stem will be 130mm. We shall see how the handling works out in the end. 

Here is a rough idea of how this will look like (butchered a pro bike).


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

Pretty sure the MTB front shifter is not going to work with the road front deraileur. It will not pull the correct amount of cable per shift.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

Forgive me, but I am reminded that humans have a long way to go.
A flatbar dogma. Hopefully you are trolling...lol.
Learn it, love it live it.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Trolling? People have converted Colnagos Times BMCs Lapierres into flatbar bikes. Try google.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

kapusta said:


> Pretty sure the MTB front shifter is not going to work with the road front deraileur. It will not pull the correct amount of cable per shift.


My search indicates that in the 9sp era MTB and road derailleurs had very similar cable pulls.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

I'm just curious -- not criticizing -- but why do you want to put a flat bar on a road bike?


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

You could sell the Dogma then head down to the bike shop and buy 4 or 5 ready made flat bar bikes.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

The handling won't change. It is what it is, the geometry of the frame/fork determines handling...not stem length.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

I would go 1 x 10


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

Wish I had a Dogma just "lying around".

Not sure why you'd do this, but to each his own. Will 28s fit inside that frame?


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

threefire said:


> Trolling? People have converted Colnagos Times BMCs Lapierres into flatbar bikes. Try google.


Sure, you can put a moustache on the Mona Lisa


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

pmf said:


> I'm just curious -- not criticizing -- but why do you want to put a flat bar on a road bike?


Actually there is a genre of bicycles called flat bar road bikes. Shimano, SRAM and I believe Campy all make one or more flat bar road component groups. 

So what I do, what I think, or whether I am an actual human being doesn't affect any of that. 

That being said, my take on flat bar road bikes is that sometimes some people want some flexibility in dress code, a little less pressure in the lower back, the ability to walk a little bit when needed, and the improved CONTROL with wider flat bars. 

Personal circumstances vary so I won't get into too much specifics about myself or my commute, but suffice to say that the above 4 reasons are fairly common ones.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> The handling won't change. It is what it is, the geometry of the frame/fork determines handling...not stem length.


Actually not true. Your hands are normally much further away from the fork steerer line with road bars. Handling changes quite a bit unless you use a really long stem. If you actually have tried a flat bar road bike you'd know what I am saying.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Jay Strongbow said:


> You could sell the Dogma then head down to the bike shop and buy 4 or 5 ready made flat bar bikes.


Actually you can't. Not a nice one. 

With all the fakes floating around, it's tough to sell 4-5yr+ Dogma frame these days (you'd be lucky to get 1500 USD. In fact I sold a Cento 1 SR Frameset recently for $950). How much does a nice sub-8kg Ultegra equipped flat bar road bike cost??? In a bike shop if they carry one? Easily $2000+ if not $3000. 

Unless you are talking about Walmart bikes. 

It's a bit odd that I am asking a question and then find myself trying to defend something, but selling second hand bike stuff is no rocket science though. The prices are pretty transparent.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

11spd said:


> Sure, you can put a moustache on the Mona Lisa


I am sure Shimano also makes a MS-R9900 13speed moustache for Mona Lisa too, just like the flat bar road component goups they make.

BTW, people have not hesitated before putting ENVE and DA on a flat bar bike.








Or Sram force group, 9XX-gram carbon frame, or $500+ one piece bar/stem combo on a flat bar bike.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Gimme Shoulder said:


> Wish I had a Dogma just "lying around".
> 
> Not sure why you'd do this, but to each his own. Will 28s fit inside that frame?


I gave a few reasons in another message above. As for whether 28s will fit, it will be tight and we will find out when the tires arrive. WOrst case I will use them on another bike that I know will take 28s.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

I thought about it but I happen to have a spare Ultegra crank and doubt just 50T or 34T alone would do it. I am not too thrilled about going 1x because I have 1x12 on my MTB and while the range is decent but the jumps are pretty big.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

threefire said:


> My search indicates that in the 9sp era MTB and road derailleurs had very similar cable pulls.


Rear derailleurs... yes, mtb and road were/are perfectly cross compatible in 9 speed.

Front derailleurs... guess it depends on what you consider "very similar". They have different pull ratios, but with a 2x setup you might be able to kludge it together to work. You are just going to have to try it and see.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

kapusta said:


> Rear derailleurs... yes, mtb and road were/are perfectly cross compatible in 9 speed.
> 
> Front derailleurs... guess it depends on what you consider "very similar". They have different pull ratios, but with a 2x setup you might be able to kludge it together to work. You are just going to have to try it and see.


That's what I will have to do if I don't get much onpoint advice on here. Good thing is that older front ders are dirt cheap right now.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

I dig 1x and don’t mind the gaps. I’ve turned a couple of 29ers into drop bar bikes and set both up 1x.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

threefire said:


> I gave a few reasons in another message above. .


Doesn't matter. Nothing gets some people's chamois in a wad like someone uttering the words "flat-bar road bike". Just ignore them.


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

As I said in my post - to each his own. I see it's intended to be a commuter. I have zero emotional investment in the project. No chamois wadage here. I'd like to see pics when done.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

threefire said:


> Actually not true. Your hands are normally much further away from the fork steerer line with road bars. Handling changes quite a bit unless you use a really long stem. If you actually have tried a flat bar road bike you'd know what I am saying.


No...the bike 'handles' the same no matter what your position is or how long the stem is. The 'handling'...how stable or not the bike is and how it turns (what the radius of a turn is at a certain lean angle) are the same no matter what you do to the stem. What you 'feel' can change, but the bike doesn't handle differently. A stable bike will remain stable, a quick bike will remain quick. You are not changing the head angle, the offset, or the trail.


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

Sounds like threefire is talking about what I've heard discussed as "rudder effect". You probably have a more correct term. Anyway, the idea that the longer the stem the less quick the turning might feel.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> No...the bike 'handles' the same no matter what your position is or how long the stem is. The 'handling'...how stable or not the bike is and how it turns (what the radius of a turn is at a certain lean angle) are the same no matter what you do to the stem. What you 'feel' can change, but the bike doesn't handle differently. A stable bike will remain stable, a quick bike will remain quick. You are not changing the head angle, the offset, or the trail.


Hey, I am all for flat bar conversions if thats what makes someone happy (made my wife very happy), but I’ve got to disagree here.

If you are talking about how a bike handles riding no handed... sure, I agree with you.

However, I think most people (appropriately) consider how a bike steers to be part of handling. And changing bar and stem combos has a big effect on this. SOME things will remain the same, some will not.

That said, just because it is different does not mean it is bad.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

kapusta said:


> Hey, I am all for flat bar conversions if thats what makes someone happy (made my wife very happy), but I’ve got to disagree here.
> 
> If you are talking about how a bike handles riding no handed... sure, I agree with you.
> 
> ...


How do you make a bike turn? Just wondering what you think about this.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Gimme Shoulder said:


> As I said in my post - to each his own. I see it's intended to be a commuter. I have zero emotional investment in the project. No chamois wadage here. I'd like to see pics when done.


A commuter is a bike. The simple pleasure (in JFK's words) is more or less the same.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> How do you make a bike turn? Just wondering what you think about this.


Talk is cheap. Try a 90 stem and then a 130 stem with everything else being the same. Then tell me if the bike "HANDLES" the same.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Well, it's bit sad I came here to ask "HOW TO" convert a roadie to a flat bar, but most of the posters in this thread are basically preaching "ONE SHOULD NOT BUILD" a flat bar road bike. 

What did Mona Lisa do wrong to be dragged into this? 



kapusta said:


> Doesn't matter. Nothing gets some people's chamois in a wad like someone uttering the words "flat-bar road bike". Just ignore them.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> How do you make a bike turn? Just wondering what you think about this.


Turning the bars and leaning.

Beyond that, If you have a point to make, make it.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Curious about the drive line compatibility, if not a call to Shimano. 

The brake pull may feel different, one's hand and brain can modulate that. I have two flat bar road bikes from the 6 spd era that are for local errand type duties. I've taken them out for longer and find the limited hand position a bit tiresome. For stuff of 10 miles or less, I don't mind. Oh yes, platform pedals too. Nice to be able to get off the bike and walk around when called for. 

I have mine that approximate position just a CM or so back from the hood position. I don't detect a drastic difference in handling. 

The other part is one doesn't have to get the kit on. Grab the helmet, water bottle and off ya go. (Taking in the usual if you apply sunscreen, blah-blah.) For a 6 minute ride to the Post Office or to drop something off I like it. 

This is your bike and $, enjoy.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

threefire said:


> Talk is cheap. Try a 90 stem and then a 130 stem with everything else being the same. Then tell me if the bike "HANDLES" the same.


You are genuinely confused as to what makes a bike handle. Weight distribution plays a part in how a rider will feel and how much traction the front tire has but it does not and cannot change the actual handling characteristics of the bike. You will feel a bigger 'tiller' effect with a longer stem but it doesn't change how the bike will go around a corner. 

I'll ask you the same question: how do you make a bike turn?


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

kapusta said:


> leaning.
> 
> Beyond that, If you have a point to make, make it.


There you go. You lean the bike. That's all you do. Depending on head angle and fork offset the bike will make a turn of varying radius depending on the lean angle. That will not change for any reason when you go longer or shorter with the stem. The weight distribution will change, and that will give the rider a different feel of what's going on. Less weight on the front will feel 'vague' or even nervous. More weight on the front will feel more secure and you'll have better traction. Point made, based on fact not 'feels'.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> You are genuinely confused as to what makes a bike handle. Weight distribution plays a part in how a rider will feel and how much traction the front tire has but it does not and cannot change the actual handling characteristics of the bike. You will feel a bigger 'tiller' effect with a longer stem but it doesn't change how the bike will go around a corner.
> 
> I'll ask you the same question: how do you make a bike turn?


countersteer it.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

factory feel said:


> countersteer it.


What does countersteering do? What makes the bike turn? Leaning the bike over makes it turn...nothing else. Countersteering is just an action the rider makes to get the away from vertical.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> What does countersteering do? What makes the bike turn? Leaning the bike over makes it turn...nothing else. Countersteering is just an action the rider makes to get the away from vertical.


Ah the old chicken or the egg argument....


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

factory feel said:


> Ah the old chicken or the egg argument....


Not really...the bike won't turn unless it's got some lean angle. Countersteering initiates the lean.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

threefire said:


> Well, it's bit sad I came here to ask "HOW TO" convert a roadie to a flat bar, but most of the posters in this thread are basically preaching "ONE SHOULD NOT BUILD" a flat bar road bike.
> 
> What did Mona Lisa do wrong to be dragged into this?


Geometry of a flat bar frameset is generally about 40-50mm longer aka top tube length compared to drop bar frameset for a given rider size. For example I ride a flatbar bike with 625mm top tube and a dropbar bike with 582mm or so top tube. Putting a longer stem on a properly sized dropbar bike mounted with flatbar is still too short a cockpit for typical range of flatbar pullback.

There are other geometry differences as well between frame types but less pronounced than the reach of the bike.

Most of us don't want to see a dogma built into a flatbar bike. Horses for courses.
Sell the dogma and buy a flatbar bike. You can even build a nice one with light wheels and Campy flatbar shifters if you choose. The frame is the heart of a bike.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

kapusta said:


> Doesn't matter. Nothing gets some people's chamois in a wad like someone uttering the words "flat-bar road bike". Just ignore them.


Exactly. I don't think there is anything wrong w/ a 'flat bar road bike'. Especially if you have a frame and enough parts to get it going. Why not? It's just a bike after all.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Ti...r+Set+2x10&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc


the guy selling these had a flat bar set up. Buying a set maybe makes it easier to on sell if it's not your thing after all. You'll get used to the slightly slower feeling of steering input pretty quickly and it really isn't much of a change. Have fun. Post some pics when you get it done.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> There you go. You lean the bike. That's all you do. Depending on head angle and fork offset the bike will make a turn of varying radius depending on the lean angle. That will not change for any reason when you go longer or shorter with the stem. The weight distribution will change, and that will give the rider a different feel of what's going on. Less weight on the front will feel 'vague' or even nervous. More weight on the front will feel more secure and you'll have better traction. Point made, based on fact not 'feels'.


No, I said turning the bars AND leaning.

Your argument is based on an attempt to redefine a term.


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## kiwisimon (Oct 30, 2002)

A little piece on steering
https://janheine.wordpress.com/?utm...108605529&mc_cid=295b9211f7&mc_eid=b69f2c599e


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

11spd said:


> Sure, you can put a moustache on the Mona Lisa


If you're gonna put a mustache on the Mona Lisa you may as well put mustache bars on a Pinarello.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

This flat bar conversion is absolutely worth doing, even if for nothing else beyond the ulcers it will cause some to have at the sight of a flat bar Dogma.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

threefire said:


> I thought about it but I happen to have a spare *Ultegra crank and doubt just 50T or 34T* alone would do it. I am not too thrilled about going 1x because I have 1x12 on my MTB and while the range is decent but the jumps are pretty big.


If you were directing this to my post here is an alternative....

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/110-bcd-asymmetric-4-bolt-for-shimano-cranks


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

velodog said:


> If you're gonna put a mustache on the Mona Lisa you may as well put mustache bars on a Pinarello.


Now you are talking. Grant Peterson would be proud. :wink5:


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> There you go. You lean the bike. That's all you do. Depending on head angle and fork offset the bike will make a turn of varying radius depending on the lean angle. That will not change for any reason when you go longer or shorter with the stem. The weight distribution will change, and that will give the rider a different feel of what's going on. Less weight on the front will feel 'vague' or even nervous. More weight on the front will feel more secure and you'll have better traction. Point made, based on fact not 'feels'.



I think Kapusta is right on this. You steer + lean. If you don't steer, like when riding no handed, you actually have to finesse the lean in a way that matches the natural steering tendency of the front end (rake/trail, etc. you know the drill). But that's the problem, sometimes you don't want to finesse your handling (at least not all the time, like when a dog jumps in front of you), then you need to affirmatively STEER. 

And that's when STEERING, stem length and all the other good stuff comes into play.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Well, as many long time cycling enthusiasts can appreciate, buying and selling second hand has certain costs and risks. If you have most of the parts llying around (in this case i only need a front/left shifting, brake levers and tires, cheap stuff) it might be much easier to experiment in the garage. So its only a $200 experiment for me.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

I think the drive line will be fine. Road cranks + road wheels + 11-32T road cassette. 

With respect to hand positions, I have actually stashed some 45g carbon bar ends that are pretty handy. I do know lots of people who do 40-50 mile rides on a regular flat bar hardtail. The other fun fact is that many roadies (possibly more than 50%) seem to say they spend a majority of the time in the hoods anyway. 

Even after a 2-3 hour ride, it's also good to have the flexibility to step into the local convenience store for a few items without showing the contours of one's genitals to the familiar shop keeper. I still keep my SPDs, but the lower end MTB shoes tend to walk a lot better w/ more rubber and softer soles. 











Kuma601 said:


> Curious about the drive line compatibility, if not a call to Shimano.
> 
> The brake pull may feel different, one's hand and brain can modulate that. I have two flat bar road bikes from the 6 spd era that are for local errand type duties. I've taken them out for longer and find the limited hand position a bit tiresome. For stuff of 10 miles or less, I don't mind. Oh yes, platform pedals too. Nice to be able to get off the bike and walk around when called for.
> 
> ...


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

kapusta said:


> This flat bar conversion is absolutely worth doing, even if for nothing else beyond the ulcers it will cause some to have at the sight of a flat bar Dogma.


And by the way, it won't even be the first time it's done. 

Enjoy


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

kiwisimon said:


> A little piece on steering
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/?utm...108605529&mc_cid=295b9211f7&mc_eid=b69f2c599e


I was going to post this myself, you beat me to it.


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## Gimme Shoulder (Feb 10, 2004)

On the road, I think you more push or press the bar in favor of the turn. The amount the bars actually turn is very little. The only time I feel like I'm turning the bar is when in a slow tight turn, like a u-turn on a country road, where you can't lean the bike that much. I'm sure you do a lot more "turning" of the bars on an MTB or crosser on a technical track.

All of that said, I am interested in how your build turns out. Please post pics when done.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> You are genuinely confused as to what makes a bike handle. Weight distribution plays a part in how a rider will feel and how much traction the front tire has but it does not and cannot change the actual handling characteristics of the bike. You will feel a bigger 'tiller' effect with a longer stem but it doesn't change how the bike will go around a corner.
> 
> I'll ask you the same question: how do you make a bike turn?


Handling and 'feel' are the same thing in most people's mind and for practical purposes. You acknowledge that changes. So I think you are disputing something you agree with.

Handling isn't how a bike goes around a corner. It's bike reaction per rider input. Pretty much every bike can go around the same corner the same way. That's a given. How much input it takes from the rider is what handling is and stem length and weight distribution effect that.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> Leaning the bike over makes it turn...nothing else.


This is incorrect. 

The lean angle of the bike COMBINED WITH the orientation or the front wheel determines if and how much you turn.

You can make a turn of a given radius at a wide range of lean angles (even with the bike straight up and down). However, the orientation of the front wheel (and bars) will be different.

Granted, at high speeds this amount of difference in front wheel orientation is very small.... but it is also very precise. 

Some bar/stem configurations make it easier to maintain a specific wheel orientation. Others make it easier to change quickly. This is not just “feel”, it actually effects where the bike is going and what you need to do to control it.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> There you go. You lean the bike. That's all you do.


That's all?
So headsets are just a gimmick?

I wouldn't recommend testing your theory by locking a headset at the top of a curvy mountain road but if you're real confident it's true let us know how that works out.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Jay Strongbow said:


> That's all?
> So headsets are just a gimmick?
> 
> I wouldn't recommend testing your theory by locking a headset at the top of a curvy mountain road but if you're real confident it's true let us know how that works out.


Please, I never said anything about headsets. It's a given in this situation that they work.


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## dir-t (Oct 14, 2005)

cxwrench said:


> Please, I never said anything about headsets. It's a given in this situation that they work.


You implied that they don't factor into the ability to turn a bike by suggesting that the only thing involved in a turn is leaning. 

It must be early. I don't usually make time to involve myself in such pedantry - and this forum is full of it lately.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

Op, a longer stem will be needed most likely. I haven’t scoured the thread to see if it was mentioned.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

dir-t said:


> You implied that they don't factor into the ability to turn a bike by suggesting that the only thing involved in a turn is leaning.
> 
> It must be early. I don't usually make time to involve myself in such pedantry - and this forum is full of it lately.


Jesus christ...I didn't mention the tires need to be inflated and wheels installed on the bike either but we all know that has to happen.


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## factory feel (Nov 27, 2009)

cxwrench said:


> Jesus christ...I didn't mention the tires need to be inflated and wheels installed on the bike either but we all know that has to happen.




Can bike be upside down for wheel installation?


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## preston67 (Feb 18, 2015)

Shimano makes some flat bar shifters compatible with 11 speed road derailleurs. I wish I could give you the part numbers but I bought mine a year ago. If you look hard enough on the Shimano site you can find the part numbers. I bought mine on ebay that's the only place I could find them, shipped from Taiwan. I am running 11 speed Ultegra on my flat bar bike. It already came with cheap Tektro disc brakes. 

A previous poster is correct, the flat bar bike really needs to have a longer reach than a road bike. My Specialized Sirrus has a 410 reach and still uses a 130mm stem. On a mountain bike I ride a large which is usually a 445 reach. I have no idea what size road bike I'd ride. Its actually a pretty trick bike with carbon frame and fork, chinese 25mm carbon wheels and an Ultegra drivetrain. 

I ride around town like a bike messenger, hopping curbs up and down and jumping obstacles. I feel like a Fred on a drop bar. I know the "Road Bike Party" crew can do it but I could never ride aggressively like that, and in fact whenever I see road bikers approaching any kind of "difficulty" around here they slow way down and usually clip out - it seems most can't even ride up a curb slowly much less try to bunnyhop it. So yeah I'm a big believer in flat bar city bikes. Its also fun passing fully kitted drop bar roadies in my leather work gloves, tank top, and flat bar bike


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

preston67 said:


> I ride around town like a bike messenger, hopping curbs up and down and jumping obstacles. I feel like a Fred on a drop bar. I know the "Road Bike Party" crew can do it but I could never ride aggressively like that, *and in fact whenever I see road bikers approaching any kind of "difficulty" around here they slow way down and usually clip out - it seems most can't even ride up a curb slowly much less try to bunnyhop it. So yeah I'm a big believer in flat bar city bikes. Its also fun passing fully kitted drop bar roadies in my leather work gloves, tank top, and flat bar bike*


That has about nothing to do with the bars.
Many road cyclists would be concerned with trashing their 16 spoke weight weenie wheels, some aren't great bike handlers and would also unclip on a flat bar bike, and many have a more laid out bike fit making hopping more difficult. They wouldn't be able to hop well on a flat bar either if they set it up to be laid out.


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## preston67 (Feb 18, 2015)

Fair enough - my post came off a little dick-ish. Probably because I can't ride anything on a drop bar bike it feels totally awkward to me to the point where I don't even feel safe riding anything but an MUT. And I race expert class in DH and Enduro mtb !


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

preston67 said:


> Fair enough - *my post came off a little dick-ish*. Probably because I can't ride anything on a drop bar bike it feels totally awkward to me to the point where I don't even feel safe riding anything but an MUT. And I race expert class in DH and Enduro mtb !


I didn't think that. Just sounded like there were factors other than the bars you hadn't considered.


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## GlobalGuy (Jun 9, 2015)

threefire said:


> Long story short -- I have an opportunity to put together a cheap and light flat bar commuter that can also handle some spirited weekend excursions, mainly from parts I have lying around.
> 
> Now I need some advice from the experts here who may have a similar experience.
> 
> ...


That looks pretty ideal to me given your goal. It looks like it could among other things function as either a commuter bike or fitness bike. Overall, truly a road bike with no clip in required, (optional, of course), or a fitness bike. In other words, an overall bike that offers much of the performance of a road bike but with options not viable with a traditional road bike. 

Simply for your consideration, if you can and would care to do so I would recommend 32c on the tires. It will improve handling, speed, and comfort for what it appears that you seek. Good luck. You sound like you know what you are doing!


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

threefire said:


> And by the way, it won't even be the first time it's done.
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> View attachment 323362


Well, at least they had the decency to slam the stem on this one.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

I put road bars on my mountain bike..... it still handled like a mountain bike. 
Setup the stem/bars for the same reach as a road bike.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

Thanks. I would go 38 if i could. Having ridden both road and mtb, i find 35-38the real sweet spot. But given frane limitations i doubt i could do better than 28 if even that. We will see.


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## threefire (Apr 5, 2004)

factory feel said:


> Op, a longer stem will be needed most likely. I haven’t scoured the thread to see if it was mentioned.


Yes. I did mention going with a 130 to begin with. And if needed i will get a 140. nothing else is really commercially abailable thats decent in weight and looks.


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## gary7 (Aug 14, 2018)

Sounds like a great idea. I did that with a Roubaix frame using a shimano road drive train & their 4603 trigger shifters (the numbers don't match like you'd expect - I tried the 4703 ones first and they didn't have the correct pull), and the R550 levers. Just trim your bars in a little at a time & it'll handle just fine.


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## 11spd (Sep 3, 2015)

threefire said:


> Yes. I did mention going with a 130 to begin with. And if needed i will get a 140. nothing else is really commercially abailable thats decent in weight and looks.


Insightful words. When descecrating a Pinarello with a flatbar, weight and looks are hugely important. Another demerit for humanity..lol.


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## jspharmd (May 24, 2006)

After going through three pages of comments, I kept asking myself "Why?" 

I don't really care about how it looks, but it wasn't clear to me why. Do you have some hand issues that prevent you from using drop bars? You described the issues with flat bar handling on a road bike(that was an interesting sidebar...still not sure how you just lean to turn if you're going 5 mph...maybe my handling skills suck, but I turn the bar). So, I kept asking myself why would you do it.


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## kapusta (Apr 26, 2004)

jspharmd said:


> After going through three pages of comments, I kept asking myself "Why?"


To get under drop-bar purists’ skin.

And it is working.


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## masont (Feb 6, 2010)

11spd said:


> Geometry of a flat bar frameset is generally about 40-50mm longer aka top tube length compared to drop bar frameset for a given rider size. For example I ride a flatbar bike with 625mm top tube and a dropbar bike with 582mm or so top tube. Putting a longer stem on a properly sized dropbar bike mounted with flatbar is still too short a cockpit for typical range of flatbar pullback.
> 
> There are other geometry differences as well between frame types but less pronounced than the reach of the bike.
> 
> ...


Most of us don't give a rip what other people do to make their riding experience more fun, actually.


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## MichaelG76 (Sep 28, 2021)

11spd said:


> Geometry of a flat bar frameset is generally about 40-50mm longer aka top tube length compared to drop bar frameset for a given rider size. For example I ride a flatbar bike with 625mm top tube and a dropbar bike with 582mm or so top tube. Putting a longer stem on a properly sized dropbar bike mounted with flatbar is still too short a cockpit for typical range of flatbar pullback.
> 
> There are other geometry differences as well between frame types but less pronounced than the reach of the bike.
> 
> ...


Well I want to see dogma flat bar. Why does it bother you so much that he wants to put flat bars on it? He will still pass you on your wal-mart bike


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

MichaelG76 said:


> Well I want to see dogma flat bar. Why does it bother you so much that he wants to put flat bars on it? He will still pass you on your wal-mart bike


Because 11spd was a troll who was banned back in 2019.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

And three years later, do we all still disagree that it just looks wrong? I see a guy on a fancy Cervelo road bike with a flat bar out on the bike trail sometimes. Looks odd to me, but what ever floats your boat. 

I still have no idea why anyone would want to do this. Flat bars aren't as comfortable to ride long distances as road bike drop bars. On a flat bar, you have basically one hand position. On a drop bars, you can move your hands around. I rode a mountain bike 40 miles on a rails to trails path some years ago, and my hands were killing me at the end of it. 

11 spd is gone, but we still have bike shop guy to tell us that we're idiots.


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## MichaelG76 (Sep 28, 2021)

pmf said:


> And three years later, do we all still disagree that it just looks wrong? I see a guy on a fancy Cervelo road bike with a flat bar out on the bike trail sometimes. Looks odd to me, but what ever floats your boat.
> 
> I still have no idea why anyone would want to do this. Flat bars aren't as comfortable to ride long distances as road bike drop bars. On a flat bar, you have basically one hand position. On a drop bars, you can move your hands around. I rode a mountain bike 40 miles on a rails to trails path some years ago, and my hands were killing me at the end of it.
> 
> 11 spd is gone, but we still have bike shop guy to tell us that we're idiots.


Well I think flat bar road bikes are great for long distances! It just comes down to how the rider feels. I like both and owned both but since my kidney transplant I find that a flat bar road bike is more comfortable. I have Shimano 105 on a trek fx3. It came with a carbon fork and I added a carbon seat post and a carbon rail seat. Carbon flat bar handle bar cut down to 660 with carbon bar ends. I added R3 tires with carbon Vision 45 deep wheels. I keep up with drop bar roadies with ease and I am comfortable doing it. We do century rides all the time and I have absolutely no problems with hand numbness. But that is just me! With my Lupus the drops just hurt now in days. I have read post after post criticizing flat bar road bikes and I don't understand why? I think they look nice and ride smoothly and fast. But that's my opinion. He is right that it is a whole genre of flat bar road bikes now and they are selling and the genre is growing fast daily. I think we can all share the road and enjoy our individual experience. We should be supporting each others journey instead of criticizing it. Happy riding!!!!


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## shrubs (Apr 6, 2021)

Bought this as a flat bar road bike 2014. (Naysayers calling it a fitness bike.) Notice I have flats on in this pic. That was when I became aware of drop vs. flat bar…let’s call it a thing despite individual preferences.

Have group ridden with drop bar riders, no problem except for the snide remarks being useless . Cats are all about “showing me” but to no avail.

Do I get advantages of drop bars? Absolutely. Strong, as in good, drop bar riders …prevail. They will undoubtably “show me”.

Still adore my flat bar ride.


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## MichaelG76 (Sep 28, 2021)

shrubs said:


> Bought this as a flat bar road bike 2014. (Naysayers calling it a fitness bike.) Notice I have flats on in this pic. That was when I became aware of drop vs. flat bar…let’s call it a thing despite individual preferences.
> 
> Have group ridden with drop bar riders, no problem except for the snide remarks being useless . Cats are all about “showing me” but to no avail.
> 
> ...


Nice bike I really like it! Truly I am going back in forth about putting drops on my bike! The less aggressive one that is on the endurance bikes such as the Domane! There are some advantages that I use to enjoy on drops that's why I am considering adding drops but I read tons of post about the cost but I have a guy at the bike shop here in Vegas willing to do it for 700 plus his small fee of 150! To me that is a still! I told him about my health problems and he assured me that these drops are best if a decide to upgrade! It just upset me when I read post criticizing those that enjoy flat bars and criticizing if they want to convert their current bike to drops! I think I failed to mention that I am 6'7" and the road bikes produce is minimal for people my height especially since the pandemic. I don't want second hand or used. I don't see the need if I already have 2021 sitting in my garage! I can just pick and plug. Even this idea gets shot down rudely on these forums. when people ask questions about things like this they are looking for real support not a argument so I am just doing what I want its my money and if I comes out bad then it is my loss no everyone else's. I really enjoy riding and appreciate at cyclist and different styles of bikes!


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## Quattro_Assi_07 (Jan 13, 2006)

...


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## shrubs (Apr 6, 2021)

For perspective and edification.

Flat bar is OEM. I lucked out and rest of the bike is built to what I call…a lower end road bike. My opinion, of course.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

The drop bars on the BMC are rotated down like crazy. Anything would be an improvement over that set up. Not sure why that is set up so unusually?


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## No Time Toulouse (Sep 7, 2016)

PBL450 said:


> The drop bars on the BMC are rotated down like crazy. Anything would be an improvement over that set up. Not sure why that is set up so unusually?


Yeah, man, that setup looks kinda like how K-Mart used to assemble their bikes!


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## saddle tramp (Feb 22, 2006)

Flat bar/fitness bikes are designed with long top tubes. Recently the mfgr’s seem to be dialing them into more road, shorter top tubes, taller head tubes than road…not unlike gravel bikes imo…


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