# Handlebar: Carbon v. Aluminum



## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Ok. Small spill. Apparently my handlebar and crank arms are toast. 

Crankset will probably get replaced but now debating do I go carbon or alloy with the handlebar. While the broken crank was disturbing, had the handlebar snapped last week the result could have been much worse. 

Weight difference looks to be about 1/8 of a pound give or take. No big deal. But what about the vibration? Tarmacs are hardly the most forgiving ride anyway. 

I did a search and did not dig anything up surprisingly. Am I just being gun shy with carbon? 

Also any suggestions for either would be great?


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## RJP Diver (Jul 2, 2010)

NJBiker72 said:


> Ok. Small spill. Apparently my handlebar and crank arms are toast.
> 
> Crankset will probably get replaced but now debating do I go carbon or alloy with the handlebar. While the broken crank was disturbing, had the handlebar snapped last week the result could have been much worse.
> 
> ...


I put a pair of 3T Ergonova carbon bars on my Cervelo R3 and really do notice a difference comfort-wise. I figure that if my frame, seatpost, and wheels can be made out of carbon without assploding... so can my bars.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

RJP Diver said:


> I put a pair of 3T Ergonova carbon bars on my Cervelo R3 and really do notice a difference comfort-wise. I figure that if my frame, seatpost, and wheels can be made out of carbon without assploding... so can my bars.


That is exactly the bar that is being recommended by the LBS. 

Question, what made you make that decision?


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## AJ88V (Nov 14, 2012)

These are pretty tasty.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=BUY_PRODUCT_STANDARD&PRODUCT.ID=9575&MODE=
Pain in the butt to install with the internal routing, but boy they look nice when you're done. Not enough saddle time to really say, but initial impressions are very positive.

Whatever you do, stick with separate stem/bar package so you can adjust later. If you check weight, there is virtually no penalty going separate, and it gives you a lot more options.


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## Marc (Jan 23, 2005)

Saw your other thread NJ. My own opine...make the bars alloy and use your own judgement on the cranks. I call your crank fracture a fluke, myself. I just got back from the 5 day state cycling light-tour. 200 or so Treks and Spec'y carbon racing bikes. Many fell over on their sides due to (ridiculous amounts of) wind when parked. No broken cranks.

I get where you're coming from on wanting comfort...but there's only so much you can do about a zebra's stripes. If you're wanting a comfy ride, a racing bike like a Tarmac ain't the place to be thinking about it that much, IMHO. I suppose this naturally leads to the "n+1" dialogue about bikes  . My Seven got a new anatomic alloy bar a few weeks back for $15+shipping online, that is quite comfy. Then again my Seven was already pretty comfy to start with.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

AJ88V said:


> These are pretty tasty.
> https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=BUY_PRODUCT_STANDARD&PRODUCT.ID=9575&MODE=
> Pain in the butt to install with the internal routing, but boy they look nice when you're done. Not enough saddle time to really say, but initial impressions are very positive.
> 
> Whatever you do, stick with separate stem/bar package so you can adjust later. If you check weight, there is virtually no penalty going separate, and it gives you a lot more options.


Thanks. That Zipp looks nice. May have to add that to my list to check out.


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## Local Hero (Jul 8, 2010)

All of my 700c bikes have aluminum bars. 

When building my race bike I wanted a compact bar with flare without breaking the bank. I settled on these: Williams Maxim ACS Alloy Stem Williams threw in the bar tape for free. 

Speaking of bar wrap, some good vibrationg damping lizard skins wrap will add just as much to comfort as carbon, imo. 

On my track whip I run 3T ergonova pro with a 3T stem. My rain bike has aluminum Ritchey WCS bar/stem. It's pro to match your bar and stem.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

I was resistant to carbon bars until my alloy ones corroded through... I switched to carbon bars (Easton SLX3) about 4 years ago and I regret not having made the switch sooner as they really help get rid of vibration.


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n (Mar 3, 2012)

I was going to get the Deda Zero 100. Then I decided on the 3T Ergonova Team. Thought the flat portion on top will be more comfortable for my palms ... and the carbon is more giving for road bumps ...


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n said:


> I was going to get the Deda Zero 100. Then I decided on the 3T Ergonova Team. Thought the flat portion on top will be more comfortable for my palms ... and the carbon is more giving for road bumps ...


Those are two I am considering. This replacement/upgrade would be more fun if not two months after new wheels. 

Pretty soon I will be peeling the Specialized logo off it, if there are not enough of their components left in place.


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## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

You may already know that the 3T, Zipp, FSA and Bontrager carbon bars are counterfeited in China. They are on fleabay for $70-$100 when the real ones are usually $200+.
They look real enough that it can be hard to tell a fake. I've seen individuals selling what could be fakes for big bucks, also.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

Randy99CL said:


> You may already know that the 3T, Zipp, FSA and Bontrager carbon bars are counterfeited in China. They are on fleabay for $70-$100 when the real ones are usually $200+.
> They look real enough that it can be hard to tell a fake. I've seen individuals selling what could be fakes for big bucks, also.



I am going to buy it through my LBS. I would need them to install it anyway and while I know there is a mark-up, I get a discount as a club member, so it is not too bad. 

I guess that is a good reason though to go with a lesser known name if buying on-line.


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## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

NJBiker72 said:


> I am going to buy it through my LBS. I would need them to install it anyway and while I know there is a mark-up, I get a discount as a club member, so it is not too bad.
> 
> I guess that is a good reason though to go with a lesser known name if buying on-line.


Obviously, you should be ok buying through a dealer.
FSA, for one, now puts serial number stickers on all their products. Fakes don't have them.
And I understand that fakes don't have retail packaging with instructions and warranty cards.


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## Tunnelrat81 (Mar 18, 2007)

For comfort, why not just throw some 25 tires on it, run the appropriate (lower) pressure, and IMPROVE your overall comfort with no reduction in speed/efficiency? Tire size/pressure will have a much bigger effect on vibration than the switch from carbon to aluminum bars anyway. The reason people are nervous about carbon stem and bars (more-so than with a carbon frame) is because it's how you control the bike. The stakes are high when you're decending extremely fast, and if your bars fail at 50 mph, you may 'ride' another 1/2 mile down the descent before the crash ensues. You didn't know the cranks failed until they were broken either, and that's what you can expect from an 'unseen' damaged handlebar. You just never know. I appreciate the comfort of knowing that if my bars fail, they'll most likely bend first, allowing me to slow and stop without incident. And this risk at what benefit? A small weight difference, and comfort that can be more than compensated for by adjusting tires/pressure etc..

I would even trust a carbon stem over a carbon bar because it's not likely to ever get a direct impact damage. But even so, compare weights of pure carbon stems to aluminum stems, and you'll quickly see that there's not even much weight savings to be had, if any.

For me it's a risk/reward issue. For imperceptible benefit, you're taking on some legitimate risk. The pro's who ride and race this stuff without incident get new stuff every year, and likely get it replaced (between races at least) if there's a chance of damage from a spill or drop . I've had friends insist that their bars 'must be ok' because they simply didn't have the money to replace them. Once you're invested $250+ into a product, your objectivity becomes clouded following potential damage from a fall. And by continuing to use a compromised part, you're not only risking yourself but those who ride with you.

Just my $.02 though. Good luck with whichever decision you make.

-Jeremy


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## RJP Diver (Jul 2, 2010)

NJBiker72 said:


> That is exactly the bar that is being recommended by the LBS.
> 
> Question, what made you make that decision?


Was running the AL version that came stock with the bike; liked the fit and geometry.


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## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

I went from Deda Zero100 aluminum to PRO Vibe carbon. The carbon feels way better, I'd never go back to aluminum. I also use fizik gel pads under the tape.


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## Local Hero (Jul 8, 2010)

2013 Red Kite Crit #2: Carbon Bar Fail - YouTube

It happens.


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## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

I like carbon but not wild about spending $300 for bars.

Pro Vibe Round OS Carbon Road Handlebar - Road Handlebars

Williams Élan CCS Carbon Road Handlebar


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## Eyorerox (Feb 19, 2008)

Get the aluminium 3t Ergonova (pro) bar & 25mm tyres with lower pressure


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

Nothing wrong with carbon bits, as long as you replace them after every crash, like the professionals do.

Back in the day, i must have crashed 15+ times on my old Cinelli bars, before they failed. (and these were not "bike falling over" crashes)
.
.


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