# Bar End Shifters... Why?



## rhino biker (Nov 28, 2006)

Why are bar end shifters popular on touring bikes? Nostalgia? Are there real advantages over the 105/Ultegra brifters that I'm so used to? ~ Jack


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

simple, strong, cheap, not a lot of parts to break, some can go friction when things get wonky, tradition


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

Also, a bit lighter than brifters (yes, I'm counting the aero brake levers), and kinda cool in that not a lot of ppl have 'em.

Plus you can have a really 'beeg' handlebar bag up front and still be able to shift! :thumbsup:


...


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## lx93 (Jun 14, 2007)

FatTireFred said:


> tradition


http://www.despair.com/tradition.html 

Bar-end shifters- the cycling equivalent of using an iron kettle over a fire cuz 'them thar new-fangled microwave ovens are just too unreliable.'


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

lx93 said:


> Bar-end shifters- the cycling equivalent of using an iron kettle over a fire cuz 'them thar new-fangled microwave ovens are just too unreliable.'




they have their place... have you ever used 'em?


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## yetisurly (Sep 30, 2005)

rhino biker said:


> Why are bar end shifters popular on touring bikes? Nostalgia? Are there real advantages over the 105/Ultegra brifters that I'm so used to? ~ Jack



I use them because anyone that sees them on my bikes hates them and can't understand why I would want to use them. I have had dual controls, downtube, and Varsity old school 1970's stem shifters, but I have to say that bar ends are just fine for me, they may not be key, but they work. They just work, take a beating and don't cost 300 bucks.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

yetisurly said:


> ..... I have to say that bar ends are just fine for me, they may not be key, but they work. They just work, take a beating and don't cost 300 bucks.


1+

BTW they are likely a "Lifetime" part too. Aren't likely to wear out or be incompatable with new systems.


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## blackhat (Jan 2, 2003)

lx93 said:


> http://www.despair.com/tradition.html
> 
> Bar-end shifters- the cycling equivalent of using an iron kettle over a fire cuz 'them thar new-fangled microwave ovens are just too unreliable.'


step 1 do an ebay search for new left side sti's midway through cx season.

step 2 do an ebay search for new left side bar end shifters shortly thereafter.

step 3 ponder why it might be that the market is flooded with new front STI shifters.


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## yetisurly (Sep 30, 2005)

MB1 said:


> 1+
> 
> BTW they are likely a "Lifetime" part too. Aren't likely to wear out or be incompatable with new systems.



hey, you need to change out your new tandem accordingly!
Nice Dunabe trip btw, I am convulsing in envy.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

rhino biker said:


> Why are bar end shifters popular on touring bikes? Nostalgia? Are there real advantages over the 105/Ultegra brifters that I'm so used to? ~ Jack


Bulletproof+friction option=shifting in all conditions. 

Bar-ends excel on bikes where maintenance is going to be spotty, usage is hard and constant, and weather is less than perfect.


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## undies (Oct 13, 2005)

About a month ago my son and I were on a ride and we both started having RD shifting problems at almost exactly the same time. Strange but true. 

I turned the knob on my bar-end from Index to Friction and my problem was solved. My son's 105 STI levers have no friction option, so he had to suffer with crappy shifting the rest of the way home. 

I switched from STI to bar-ends mainly because I was doing a new build and found the shifters really cheap. I was worried I wouldn't like them, but I haven't lost nearly as much shifting convenience as I expected. The bar-ends are surprisingly easy to use. I'm inclined to stick with bar-ends for future builds, "touring bike" or not.


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## anotherbrian (Mar 2, 2006)

MB1 said:


> 1+
> 
> BTW they are likely a "Lifetime" part too. Aren't likely to wear out or be incompatable with new systems.


"Lifetime" and compatibility if you want to work in friction mode. I have Shimano bar-ends for 6/7spd (I think they came with a little plastic clip that would allow them to work with 8spd) and 9spd, and none are going to click if I want to upgrade to 10spd.

I'm in the midst of updating my late 80's Trek 520 touring bike, and decided to switch to brifters. I swapped out the DT shifters for bar-ends early on because, at least at the time, touring bikes were supposed to have bar-ends. Having spent the majority of time on the hoods though, I never found the bar-ends particularly useful (compared to DT's).

I won't offer an opinion of brifters vs. bar-ends (yet anyways; all my other bikes are MTB's), but no choice I'd take DT's over bar-ends if I were to rewind back to the 80s.


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## yetisurly (Sep 30, 2005)

anotherbrian said:


> "Lifetime" and compatibility if you want to work in friction mode. I have Shimano bar-ends for 6/7spd (I think they came with a little plastic clip that would allow them to work with 8spd) and 9spd, and none are going to click if I want to upgrade to 10spd.
> 
> I'm in the midst of updating my late 80's Trek 520 touring bike, and decided to switch to brifters. I swapped out the DT shifters for bar-ends early on because, at least at the time, touring bikes were supposed to have bar-ends. Having spent the majority of time on the hoods though, I never found the bar-ends particularly useful (compared to DT's).
> 
> I won't offer an opinion of brifters vs. bar-ends (yet anyways; all my other bikes are MTB's), but no choice I'd take DT's over bar-ends if I were to rewind back to the 80s.


speaking of the 80's.(OT!)..anyone have one of these sitting around?


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## SystemShock (Jun 14, 2008)

yetisurly said:


> I use them because anyone that sees them on my bikes hates them and can't understand why I would want to use them. I have had dual controls, downtube, and Varsity old school 1970's stem shifters, but I have to say that bar ends are just fine for me, they may not be key, but they work. They just work, take a beating and don't cost 300 bucks.


+1. And a high-five.  

...


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## tbyrne (Dec 29, 2004)

I use them because they are cheap and simple to set up. They need no endless barrel adjustment afterwards, either.


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## My Own Private Idaho (Aug 14, 2007)

I put a bar-end on my son's bike for a front shifter because he couldn't push the lever far enough to run a triple. He can work the bar end just fine though.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*they work*



rhino biker said:


> Why are bar end shifters popular on touring bikes? Nostalgia? Are there real advantages over the 105/Ultegra brifters that I'm so used to? ~ Jack


I use them on the ends of bullhorns on my commuter bike, and also on aerbars on my TT bike. They work perfectly every time. Nice to have friction mode for the front, as you can put the derailleur exactly where you want it. Faster, too.

They just plain work. No fussing around.


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## brianmcg (Oct 12, 2002)

yetisurly said:


> speaking of the 80's.(OT!)..anyone have one of these sitting around?


I think my mom still has mine. That was the best Christmas gift for about 15 minutes.


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## commutenow (Sep 26, 2004)

I have two bikes with barends and I feel like it is the best choice for me. I love them!


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

No mention of them getting in the way of knees, parking meters, gate posts, or what-ever. I guess that problem exists mostly in my imagination? I`ve never used them, just speculating.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*tradition?*



lx93 said:


> Bar-end shifters- the cycling equivalent of using an iron kettle over a fire cuz 'them thar new-fangled microwave ovens are just too unreliable.'


Ever try a steak cooked in a microwave oven?


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## Mapei (Feb 3, 2004)

Yes, when I had bar-ends I'd bump them with my knees. For a guy who rides on teh tops a lot, I found the bar-end levers to be further away from my hands than downtube ones. And those cables that sprout out of the bottoms of your handlebars are just plain ugly.

But yeah, they never broke.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

rhino biker said:


> Why are bar end shifters popular on touring bikes? Nostalgia? Are there real advantages over the 105/Ultegra brifters that I'm so used to? ~ Jack


I guess that, back in the day, when loaded touring bikes had 80 pounds of gear loaded on them with both front *and* rear panniers that a cyclist wouldn't want to take their hands too far away from the handlebar to shift. Bar-end shifters solved this issue and any real touring bike from the '70's had them.


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## zeytin (May 15, 2004)

Plus if you're converting an old rigid MTB into a touring bike and you don't want to invest $100s (that's why you're converting not buying new) then aero v-brake levers and a set of bar-ends are a good fit.


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## Papa_Otter (Aug 6, 2007)

I'll second what zeytin said. Just converted a not so old MTB and bar end shifters where the cheapest way out. Right around $100 for shifters, levers, + new cables and LBS install. 

Love 'em on the road. Off road, feels strange.


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## StillRiding (Sep 16, 2006)

Because bar-ends always have been and many riders are traditionalists or just don't know any better.

OTOH, if you want simplicity, economy, reliability and light weight, down tube shifters are the only choice.

If you want functionality, comfort, looks, don't like to move your hands, and you don't mind spending a little extra, STI is the choice.

Bar-ends are a lame third choice as a shifter option.

As others have pointed out bar-ends are prone to be twisted/damaged in a fall or just leaning against something. The cables are heavy, in the way and ugly and bar ends require a reach to the end of the handlebars. I've had bar-ends in the past, but I never would again.

Now tell me why people insist on riding Brooks saddles?


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

StillRiding said:


> Because bar-ends always have been and many riders are traditionalists or just don't know any better.
> 
> OTOH, if you want simplicity, economy, reliability and light weight, down tube shifters are the only choice.
> 
> ...


Not all frames have lugs for mounting downtube shifters. The only inexpensive alternative would be to go with bar-end shifters.

I am building an all-weather commuter bike out of an aluminum mountain bike frame with drop bars and there aren't any mounts for downtube shifters. Since I will be locking this bike up at the subway station I will not be running expensive STI or Ergo shifters. The Suntour rear derailleur would prevent those shifters from working correctly anyway so I will be shifting the old fashioned way: friction.

It may not work for you but there's a reason that these shifters are still selling well on eBay.


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## StillRiding (Sep 16, 2006)

Lots of junk sells on eBay...that doesn't mean it's not junk. And speaking of eBay, clamp on mounts for downtube shifters are readily available there.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Huret-Challenge...ryZ56197QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Suntour-Down-Tu...ryZ56197QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-HURET-B...ryZ36140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-SIMPLEX...ryZ36140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Unless you're going with 5 or 6 speed, the limiting component as far as STI shifters goes is the rear cog and spacing, not the rear derailleur.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

StillRiding said:


> Because bar-ends always have been and many riders are traditionalists or just don't know any better.


plus, they're seriously bulletproof and they mount on frames without DT shifter lugs. 



StillRiding said:


> OTOH, if you want simplicity, economy, reliability and light weight, down tube shifters are the only choice.


The only choice if you have DT shifter mounts. Clamp-ons aren't available for OS-tubed frames (which is just about every frame that doesn't have DT shifter mounts) believe me, I've looked.



StillRiding said:


> If you want functionality, comfort, looks, don't like to move your hands, and you don't mind spending a little extra, STI is the choice.


Try 300 dollars extra. When yer building a cheap commuter out of an old MTB, $300 for shifters is more than the cost of the rest of the bike. Plus, there's no friction option. And, they're heavy compared to bar ends. And, because they have a friction option, bar ends are backwards compatible with any freewheel/cassette from 5 speed to 10. That's kinda nice.



StillRiding said:


> Bar-ends are a lame third choice as a shifter option.


Or, really, really practical if yer a cheapskate who wants versatility.



StillRiding said:


> As others have pointed out bar-ends are prone to be twisted/damaged in a fall or just leaning against something.


Twisted, maybe if installed badly, but damaged? Scratched up, but not damaged. I've crashed mine hard on a variety of bikes and surfaces and they've always worked afterwords. When they twist, you just twist them back. problem solved.



StillRiding said:


> The cables are heavy, in the way and ugly and bar ends require a reach to the end of the handlebars. I've had bar-ends in the past, but I never would again.


The cables are the exact same cables you use for STIs, and they're the same length. So, there's no extra weight. I'm not sure how they're any more in the way that STI cables, but yeah, you've gotta reach a bit. That's the price you pay for wanting cheap, durable handlebar shifting. 




StillRiding said:


> Now tell me why people insist on riding Brooks saddles?


If you have to ask, you'll never understand. 

Seriously, I could ask the same about the Airone saddle, which some love but I found to be a total @$$-chisel. Saddles are a personal choice, and if yer butt fits a brooks, you've got a match made in heaven. If not, there's plenty of other fish in the sea.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

no buck, just because they don't work for _him_ means that they are lame, antiquated junk... everyone else just don't know any better.


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## Thommy (Sep 23, 2003)

If you don't like the look of the cables coming off of your barend shifters then route them under the bar tape. I saw this done on the Cyclo Cross Forum and it now works well for me.


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

Thommy said:


> If you don't like the look of the cables coming off of your barend shifters then route them under the bar tape. I saw this done on the Cyclo Cross Forum and it now works well for me.


Huh. Never even occurred to me to route them all the way up the bars under the tape- that's a pretty cool idea. I've always just routed my bar end cables under the tape a short distance.

Figure you're only adding an extra 2-3 inches of cable/housing... shouldn't screw up yer shifting at all. Nice!

I might have to try this...


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

but think of all the weight you'll be adding...


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

FatTireFred said:


> but think of all the weight you'll be adding...


Just makes me that much faster on the downhill sections...


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## Thommy (Sep 23, 2003)

*Hidden cables*



buck-50 said:


> Huh. Never even occurred to me to route them all the way up the bars under the tape- that's a pretty cool idea. I've always just routed my bar end cables under the tape a short distance.
> 
> Figure you're only adding an extra 2-3 inches of cable/housing... shouldn't screw up yer shifting at all. Nice!
> 
> I might have to try this...


Shifting is just fine. Looks cleaner. I used new cable housing that was a little bit longer. I'll poop a little extra before each ride to eliminate the extra weight.


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## tyro (May 15, 2005)

yetisurly said:


> speaking of the 80's.(OT!)..anyone have one of these sitting around?


Mine never quite worked right. This was the one that you programmed to take turns and stuff ,right? Mine seemed to have the old software and it never worked the way it should have. I loved that thing though.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Thommy said:


> If you don't like the look of the cables coming off of your barend shifters then route them under the bar tape. I saw this done on the Cyclo Cross Forum and it now works well for me.


My buddy gave me an oversized handlebar that I decided to use with bar-end shifters. I didn't want the cables to run from the bottom of the handlebars so I drilled a pair of holes about 1.25" in front of the end of the handlebars. I then drilled another pair of holes near the center of the handlebars. I fished the cable housings through from the center section to the ends then fished them through the holes near the ends. Here's a picture of the inexpensive commuter bike I just cobbled together. I still have three things to fix on this bike before I can ride it to the subway or to work but I should be able to rectify two of the three problems before Tuesday, when I ride this bike to the subway: I need a longer front derailleur cable as the normal shorter front derailleur cable came up about 4" too short for this application; the rear hub spacing is 130mm and the rear drop-out spacing is 135mm. I've placed a spacer on the rear hub and now need to re-dish the rear wheel; the stem turned out to be about 15mm too long. I have a 60mm stem on order through a vendor on eBay and I should have that some time this week. Yes, this is an inexpensive hard tail mountain bike frame built as an inexpensive commuter bike. It's lighter and the reach is shorter than the old Stumpjumper that was the donor for most of the parts that were used to assemble this bike.


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## sometimerider (Sep 21, 2007)

Squidward said:


> I need a longer front derailleur cable


Whoa! You need a longer cage rear derailleur.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

Yeah, I know. I'm probably going to pull the compact double from the Guerciotti to put on this bike because the cranks on there now have an unusually large Q factor. I still have the old Deore XT rear derailleur from the Stumpjumper that I can move over, too, but I was really hoping to give that Suntour GPX rear derailleur a new home.


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## rodar y rodar (Jul 20, 2007)

Internal routing- cool idea, Squidward. Got any closeup pics of that, any chance?

Half OT: I really don`t want to beat StillRiding`s dead horse, but about Barcons being "tradition"- was there a time period when they were actually the standard, modern method for most road bikes? When I got a drivers license and stopped pedaling, DT shifters were still the flavor of the day. By the time I started riding again, STI was already king except for cross and touring. I was thinking that bar ends were probably on top for about ten minutes between DTs and STI/Ergo, but don`t know for sure.


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## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

rodar y rodar said:


> Internal routing- cool idea, Squidward. Got any closeup pics of that, any chance?


You ask and you shall receive.

In the first picture you can see the bump of the cable housing as it comes out of the bar-end shifter then it curves in to the bar and disappears.

In the second picture you should be able to see the cables as they come out of the bar near the stem.

The only negative to this is that the rear derailleur cable is just long enough to reach the derailleur and have about 2.5" left. The front derailleur requires a rear derailleur cable to reach.


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