# Cross bike Cantilever brake question



## Tswifty (Mar 22, 2012)

Hello
Im going to ask a simple question regarding Cantilevers on a cross bike for stopping.
I am building up a Crux E5 with Sram Rival.

Now the bike will be mostly for commuting (25-30kph) and im dead set on Cantilever brakes. Since i will be mostly riding on Road(Tarmac concrete ect) Ill deal with mud/grass/dirt when i get there but its mostly going to be ridden on the road.
So I am wondering will Avid Shorty 4's suffice? Or should i seek the Ultimate s because they are just that good? Or is there another Cantilever brake i should look at?

Ive just seen lots of "Which is best brake" but i just want to know what is efficient enough to stop on tarmac on a commute (25-30kph)


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 22, 2010)

TRP Revox, Shimano CX70. Avid Shorty 4's are not a good brake. Can be set up to suffice, but if you want an upgrade, the shorty's are good, but I felt like their benefit was the ability to adjust from wide to narrow. The Revox and CX70 are both narrow profile and have good power for canti's. When commuting you want to be able to stop quickly when the car in front of you wants to stop short.


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## davemess (Dec 26, 2008)

Are there any long hills you want to ride? If so I would maybe look to linear pull brakes. 

I have trouble getting some canti's set up well enough to be useful on the road (which I had to use this fall when I broke my road frame).


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## Kopsis (Aug 1, 2012)

Tectro CR720. All around or go with Shorty 4s on the back if you want narrow profile for Cross dismounts. Kool-stop pads (the Tectro pads are truly awful) and you'll have good braking without dropping a lot of coin.


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## Mosovich (Feb 3, 2004)

Go with V brakes.. TRP's V brakes will stop on a dime..


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## Tswifty (Mar 22, 2012)

adam_mac84 said:


> TRP Revox, Shimano CX70. Avid Shorty 4's are not a good brake. Can be set up to suffice, but if you want an upgrade, the shorty's are good, but I felt like their benefit was the ability to adjust from wide to narrow. The Revox and CX70 are both narrow profile and have good power for canti's. When commuting you want to be able to stop quickly when the car in front of you wants to stop short.


This is the reply i was looking for  Thank you for your advice. I was looking at the RevoX this morning and that has cemented my choice. 
Thank you for all your opinions


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## pretender (Sep 18, 2007)

Revox are a great brake but are kind of a PITA. The straddle release is awkward, adjusting the pads is awkward, it's barely more convenient than old-style Mafacs with the post-mount pads. Plus they are ridiculously expensive.

Shorty 4 is a fine brake, and a lot easier to adjust. They use V-brake-style brake pads, much easier to adjust. You might want to replace the stock link-wire with a traditional hanger and straddle cable. Or not.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Are you excluding mini-Vs? They're a lot easier to work with, I've had better results since switching, and they can be very cheap. I use Tektro BX3v.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

Another vote for mini-v's. Much easier to set up and more powerful for their intended purpose (stopping). Koolstop salmon or double compound pads and you should be golden. And they can be had for cheap. I use a set of Tektro 926AL's with salmon pads. I think I paid $30 for a full set (front and rear), not including the upgraded pads. Just make sure you also get some in-line cable adjusters and/or cable "noodles" with built in tension adjusters. Makes it alot easier to get the wheels in/out and adjust the pad spacing to the rim (nevermind lever feel).


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

if you are riding mostly road get mini vees
then again I am 200 plus and descended Palomar MountAIN South Grade Road on Empella Froglegg Cantis and had no issues with braking. Same bike/brakes was my daily commuter for years, never had an issue. Present commuter uses 90s era Shimano XT Cantis, racks, fenders and big ole me. Still no braking issues


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## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

I just switched from 90s era XTs to Pauls on my rain bike. Not a huge fan of either in the wet, even with the good salmon pads (fine in the dry, though). Seriously considering discs for my next rain/commute bike.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

I had Tektro CR710 & Shimano CX70 cantis. Even with Kool Stop Salmon pads (as an upgrade), braking feels non-existent. Scary descending mountain roads and steep single track trails.

Considering the mini-V's next.... question: The Tektro 926AL mini-V: Can I use a Tetkro CR720 pad holder? I do like the price of them, compared to the CX9 & CX8.4, which I do like the bling factor of the red anodizing (to match with the red trim on my bike. Also, do I need to buy the noodle?


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

tednugent said:


> Considering the mini-V's next... question: The Tektro 926AL mini-V: Can I use a Tetkro CR720 pad holder? I do like the price of them, compared to the CX9 & CX8.4, which I do like the bling factor of the red anodizing (to match with the red trim on my bike. Also, do I need to buy the noodle?


I actually bought mine used with the salmon pads for under $30. Shouldn't be a problem using the CR720 pad holders on the 926s. Eventually I am going to put Koolstop pad holders on mine, as the salmon pads I have are direct mount. And you shouldn't need noodles if you buy the 926s, they should come with them, but they are non-adjustable noodles and I have found having an adjustable noodle and/or in-line adjuster makes things alot easier.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Stopped by the LBS to order a set plus new cables.

They already have the koolstop holders in stock


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## scooterman (Apr 15, 2006)

i bet the $12 shimano cheapo replacement cantis for old mtn bikes will work better than anything else. 

but if you want a newer brake, id do the cx50/70 or avid ultimates. mini-v's have tons of power but will feel smooshy even with servo wave levers (newer shimano)


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## NoahD (Jan 21, 2003)

+1 for mini Vs. Far superior stopping power, easier to adjust. QBP makes the travel agent which will really make them nice (gets rid of the "squishiness"). Ive set up lots of cantis on my own bikes and at the shop I used to work at. They all work fine until you try a linear pull or disc.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

Parts for conversion. I currently have a headset hanger... Hence changing to a fork mounted hanger

Prob gonna go with lizard skins bar tape


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

tednugent said:


> Parts for conversion. I currently have a headset hanger... Hence changing to a fork mounted hanger
> 
> Prob gonna go with lizard skins bar tape


Might as well return the hanger as there is no need for one with v-brakes. The cable routes directly into the noodle which connects directly to the brake arm. Enjoy the new POWER!!!


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

krisdrum said:


> Might as well return the hanger as there is no need for one with v-brakes. The cable routes directly into the noodle which connects directly to the brake arm. Enjoy the new POWER!!!


Well, also, nonetheless, my fork can't take it anyway, and Tektro warns against using it on forks that can't use it.

too bad cannondale routed my rear brake cable to the drive side of the top tube...

I'm thinking about zip-tying the cable housing to the non-drive side of the top tube... looks ghetto... but probably would make the cabling less convoluted.

... should I worry about having a barrel adjuster? Should get a Problem Solvers Travel Agent?
Problem Solvers


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## scooterman (Apr 15, 2006)

Mini v's on sram levers with a travel agent have about the same power as avid ultimate shortys and shimano CX70. mini v's on shimano servo wave levers with travel agents will have no power. If you want to use travel agents just use full size vbrakes.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

tednugent said:


> Well, also, nonetheless, my fork can't take it anyway, and Tektro warns against using it on forks that can't use it.
> 
> too bad cannondale routed my rear brake cable to the drive side of the top tube...
> 
> ...


Is the C-dale not a "three on-top" cable routing set-up? Not sure I totally understand the "rear brake is drive side routed", as you should have flexibility to route it however you want to if it is a traditional "3 on top" set-up. You might want to google an article Zank did on cross cable routing. Makes alot of sense to me.

Barrel adjuster, yes, I would recommend, as I find it alot easier to get wheels on/off and fine tune lever feel a bit.

Travel agent? No need as scooterman mentioned. Only useful with full size V's.


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

krisdrum said:


> Is the C-dale not a "three on-top" cable routing set-up?  Not sure I totally understand the "rear brake is drive side routed", as you should have flexibility to route it however you want to if it is a traditional "3 on top" set-up. You might want to google an article Zank did on cross cable routing. Makes alot of sense to me.
> 
> Barrel adjuster, yes, I would recommend, as I find it alot easier to get wheels on/off and fine tune lever feel a bit.
> 
> Travel agent? No need as scooterman mentioned. Only useful with full size V's.


It's not the traditional 3 up top. the shifter cables are routed down the downtube... those cables, I mimicked the Jagwire MTB Ripcord (and Gore Ride-On), so they are "sealed"


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

There are a variety of noodles available for V-brakes if it proves to be a problem. It's hard for me to imagine a cable routing that would work for traditional cantilevers and be a real dealbreaker for mini-Vs.

Pics?


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

here's an old pic, with the canti's.


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