# Best Gearing combination "cassette" for flat ground



## spinnertsaf (Jun 3, 2008)

I ride and train in an area that is all flat ground. Question what is the best cassette 10 spd, for flat ground. If this has been asked, would you please direct me to it.


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

You'll get many opinions on this. It depends on your fitness, your cadence, and the speed ranges you ride in. I'd bet a popular choice would be a 12-23 in back with a 53/39 up font.


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## Keeping up with Junior (Feb 27, 2003)

*Sweet 16 - Barely Legal 18*



Peanya said:


> You'll get many opinions on this. It depends on your fitness, your cadence, and the speed ranges you ride in. I'd bet a popular choice would be a 12-23 in back with a 53/39 up font.


With the assumptions above... 

I really like my 12-23. Close ratios are important on the flats and I am loath to be without a 16t and 18t cog. I will notice when the 18t is missing from a cassette and I really dislike when the 16t is missing from a cassette.

Up front for the flats I prefer a 52/42 (a 53/42 will work too). The closer gap up front makes going from the big ring to the small ring or vice-versa a smooth transition.

If fitness wise you need some lower ratios just be sure to focus on keeping the ratios where you typically ride close. Smaller front chainrings (without a huge gap) and junior cassettes are a good way to accomplish this.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

spinnertsaf said:


> I ride and train in an area that is all flat ground. Question what is the best cassette 10 spd, for flat ground. If this has been asked, would you please direct me to it.


13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-26
or
12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23

depending on what will get you a better chain line in your cruising gears (from strength and cadence).

You really want the 15-16-17-18-19 combination. On the 19 cog you're doing 17-20 MPH with the vast majority of your power going into overcoming wind resistance which increases with the square of velocity so it's nearly 25% harder to ride at the same cadence on the 17 cog.

The small ring doesn't go too fast, but that doesn't matter because it's only getting used for killer head-winds and recovery. You stay on your big ring at cruising velocity so you don't need a front shift if you want to pick up the pace for a while. The gear ratios are a bit closer and cogs last a bit longer on the big ring and bigger cogs than small and smaller.

You're unlikely to use the 12 unless you get a killer tail wind - spinning only 100 RPM it's a 32-33 MPH gear on a compact and 34-35 on a conventional double. Sprinting it's 39+ or 41+. With only 8 or 9 cogs and a 50 big ring I traded it for a 16 and 18 in a heartbeat and only noticed the absence when riding east in Boulder, CO with a 45+ MPH Chinook tailwind. Down mountains it's faster to tuck than pedal.

You're not going to use the 26 either but it'll give you a better chain line in the slower cruising gears.


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

You're better off figuring that out for yourself. Serioulsy.

This might help: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/


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## mimason (Oct 7, 2006)

I would choose an 11 or 12/21.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*11?*



mimason said:


> I would choose an 11 or 12/21.


What would you need an 11 for on the flats? That's 35 mph in a 50/11 at 100 rpm. 42 mph at 120 rpm. Can you do that?


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

I like to ride the big ring all the time, so when I'm out by myself, I use a wheel with a 13-25. When I'm with a group, I use (depending on the group), a 12-23, or a 12-25.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

My recommendation (which is equally worthless):

Crank: 53x39. A good general use combination that will work with more of a climbing cassette if you take a trip to a place with hills.

Cassette: It's a 10 speed, so there is no reason to use anything as narrow as 12-21. 12-23 at the least, 12-25 if you want gearing for a weekend trip up north. 12 tooth high gears with a 53 are great in a tailwind - don't limit yourself.


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## mimason (Oct 7, 2006)

Kerry Irons said:


> What would you need an 11 for on the flats? That's 35 mph in a 50/11 at 100 rpm. 42 mph at 120 rpm. Can you do that?


Yes, with tailwinds in TT events. My typical cadence is 95.

Also, we don't know if OP is using a compact. If so, 11 is the way to go.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Kerry Irons said:


> What would you need an 11 for on the flats? That's 35 mph in a 50/11 at 100 rpm. 42 mph at 120 rpm. Can you do that?


Kerry, for most people an 11 or 12 is like having a 500lb barbell in the basement - great for bragging and ego but really it's a waste of metal.

I live in a flattish area with a couple of killer hills that need a 25. I use a 14-25 cassette with a 50/39 crank. I can do about 30mph in that 50/14 and my average speeds of 18-19mph use the 50/17 - 21 combos.

The OP has to be honest about his terrain and riding speeds and choose appropriate gearing. Wasting metal is just that - wasted metal.

And just think, the greatest cyclist ever did it with a 52/13 max.


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

When I have a 13 on, I usually top out at 37-38, going down some rollers by me. If I didn't have rollers, I could get by with a 15. (a 14 on group rides)

On my 9 speed bike, I use a 14-25 for solo rides.

Unless they have a compact, or unless they live in a very hilly area, nobody needs an 11 
Unless.
1) They have no leg speed.
2) They are a Cat 2 Time Trialer, why pushes a 12 or 13, and wants an 11 to give a better chainline in the 12.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Mike T. said:


> Kerry, for most people an 11 or 12 is like having a 500lb barbell in the basement - great for bragging and ego but really it's a waste of metal.
> 
> I live in a flattish area with a couple of killer hills that need a 25. I use a 14-25 cassette with a 50/39 crank. I can do about 30mph in that 50/14 and my average speeds of 18-19mph use the 50/17 - 21 combos.
> 
> ...


Wasted metal? It's a 10 speed! The only way to get only the gears he "needs" is to go back to using 5 speed freewheels.

I submit that having 10 cogs means that you'll have both more range and finer graduations than what is "appropriate" for Florida. Since that is the case, why not lighten up about the dangers of a 12 tooth cog?


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## gamara (May 20, 2002)

When I raced in the 90's, 53/42 & 12/21 was the standard gear of choice for any & all crits. I don't race anymore but most of my riding now is done in the big ring 53/39 combo. I believe that in a flat area, of which I live in also, that a 12/25 combo will give you the best results for recreational riding. Its easily the most versatile & useful gearing option because the ratios are so closely spaced as opposed to something like a 12/27 with larger gaps between gears. Closer spacing of gears also has other benefits such as faster, smoother gear changes by the derailleur & less strain on it.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

gamara said:


> When I raced in the 90's, 53/42 & 12/21 was the standard gear of choice for any & all crits. I don't race anymore but most of my riding now is done in the big ring 53/39 combo. I believe that in a flat area, of which I live in also, that a 12/25 combo will give you the best results for recreational riding. Its easily the most versatile & useful gearing option because the ratios are so closely spaced as opposed to something like a 12/27 with larger gaps between gears. Closer spacing of gears also has other benefits such as faster, smoother gear changes by the derailleur *& less strain on it*.


What sort of strained derailleur problems have you seen?


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## gamara (May 20, 2002)

Strain on the spring. More noticeable on lower level group sets as the spring will wear out sooner compared to top tier stuff. Wide ratio gearing will put more emphasis on the spring to take up the chain slack.


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## masont (Feb 6, 2010)

Is this where we show up and flex?


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## spookyload (Jan 30, 2004)

Having lived for 12 years in NW Florida, I will call myself an expert on flatland gearing. Highest point in our area was 85' above sea level. A 12/21 is ideal because it is easy to find and you aren't missing any cogs. I agree that an 11 is overkill for most riders on flat land.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

To the OP. How flat??

Where I lice its flat as a pancake except for the one bridge/hill, which for us is steep.

I ride 90% of the time solo and use a 51/39 upfront with a 11-21(KCNC) or 12-23 gearings in back.
Most of the time its a 11-21. I have a 12-25 (kCNC) for going to not Florida.


Even in big group rides a 51/12 is fine. Like i said. its flat! Most elevation varies by 6-12ft.


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

mimason said:


> Yes, with tailwinds in TT events. My typical cadence is 95.
> 
> Also, *we don't know if OP is using a compact. If so, 11 is the way to go*.


Nor do we know he needs gearing to cruise 35mph on the flats.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Hank Stamper said:


> Nor do we know he needs gearing to cruise 35mph on the flats.


Nor would he, since a 50x11 produces 32 MPH at 90 rpm. A decent tailwind gear, little different than a 53x12.

Having lived somewhere flat and breezy, I enjoyed making up for the constant headwinds when it occassionally worked out better.


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## natedg200202 (Sep 2, 2008)

Most of the time, extremely flat terrain is accompanied by occasional high winds. Where I grew up (near Lubbock TX) it is flat as a pancake, but I still needed a bailout when going into 35-40 mph constant winds. 

12-25 will do nicely.


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Heck, according to the second post here, you could get away with a 42 up front only and a 13/23 and you'd be fine for 99.99% of riding in the flats. Not too many years ago, your standard cassette had a 13t cog in the back for the smallest. 
I used to have a standard crank in front, but went to a compact for those very rare times I do encounter hills. I can tell you that a standard is ideal for flat ground, as I live on a pancake area called Houston. Compact cranks in a flat area means you spend a lot of time shifting the front, or cross-chaining too much. Neither of those two are desirable.


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## mimason (Oct 7, 2006)

Hank Stamper said:


> Nor do we know he needs gearing to cruise 35mph on the flats.



...and no one said he did. If you look at my post I did indicate 11 OR 12. This did not mean get the 11. Often, when buying a cassette the LBS may have one but not the other. I will clarify my post.

You really need to be a very strong rider the buy an 11 cassette. Most people would be very happy will a 12/21 or 12/23-25. If you are old and grumpy then a 13/25. BTW, if you buy an 11 then you are a poser or a braggard.


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