# Building a climbing bike



## Fanaticbiking (Sep 14, 2005)

Ok, I have always wanted to build a climbing specific bike and have chosen to convert one of my pervious bike to do so.

I will list bike as it is and am curious what people suggest to lighten up.

BMC SLT01 Team (phonak) 
Full Record Carbon (minus crankset)
FSA K-Force Mega-Exo Compact Crankset and BB
Easton Ec-70 Zero Seat post
SLR gel flow saddle
Look CX-6 pedal (kinda need to keep these for the adjustable Q factor) I know there are lighter
ITM Millennium handelbar
ITM Forged lite stem 
Campy Eurus Wheels or Ksyrium SSC Sl wheels


I am sure I could get carbon whels, but maybe somethign less expensive.

I have no idea how much it weighs as I do not have a fancy scale yet.


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## maui mike (Nov 8, 2004)

*First off what is your budget?*

This will indicate how light you want to go depending on your budget. 
My first thing I would change out is the Wheels. for a good light climbing set 
you should be under 1200 grams for the wheelset. This would make the biggest 
difference. 

I you are building a pure climbing bike only and money was no object I would get
CarbonSports Lightweight "L´Alpe d´Huez" Uphill only wheels. Those are about
1000 grams for the wheelset.


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## Fanaticbiking (Sep 14, 2005)

Yeah I figured wheels wuld be the biggest thing.

My only concern is the cost for an all carbon wheelset. Hyperons, ZIpp, etc.

Besides me losing pounds I was curious what ideas people have. Wheels are good ideas, but what else?????


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## Thorn Bait (Feb 3, 2004)

The only thing about 1200 gram wheels - they are likely all tubulars (does anyone know of clinchers that are less than 1200 grams?). If you don't want tubulars, then you would probably be more in the vicinity of 1300-1500 grams for a "light" clincher wheelset - though American Classic Magnesiums are about 1225 or so they say...


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## moose8500 (Jun 18, 2005)

yea, but you also have to take into account that those AC are really just race only, and need to be coated after every ride with a special gel so that the mag doesn't corrode... Just somethhing to consider. I would suggest some zipp 202s, hyperions, lightweights, etc, clinchers, which will be around 1300 but rideable.


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## Thorn Bait (Feb 3, 2004)

moose8500 said:


> yea, but you also have to take into account that those AC are really just race only, and need to be coated after every ride with a special gel so that the mag doesn't corrode... Just somethhing to consider. I would suggest some zipp 202s, hyperions, lightweights, etc, clinchers, which will be around 1300 but rideable.


I agree. I wasn't recommending the Magnesiums - I was merely trying to point that to get a wheelset less than 1200 grams, you need tubulars. Magnesiums come the closest as far as I know (if you don't mind the extra hassle). Also, 202s and lightweights are tubulars.... they are well under 1200 grams. If the OP does not want tubulars, then those suggestions wouldn't be helpful either... really more information is needed...


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## dreww (Jan 22, 2004)

Everyones focusing on uber expensive wheels so I will try and keep the $ a little more in line.

When you say climbing specific do you mean a race day only on Mt Washington etc when you know the grade and duration? or a "regular" liteweight road bike?

If race only then simply calculate gear ratio required for each race and strip the front derailleur, use a dummy left brake lever, a close ratio cassette (alloy will save 100g +) and a chainring suitable for the task. Tom Danielson use this set up for a few climbing events (34 or 36T ring and a 11-23 cassette, no back brake which is o.k with USCF I believe. 

Of course this wont work if the terrain is rolling etc. Then you will need a bigger ring. Thats why I ask.

The SLR gelflow is not bad - but a regular SLR or so will drop 50g

SLR saves 50g cost $60
Single ring set up costs $150 for cassette saves 400g+ (gut left hand record ergo levers saves 50-60g)
Record brakes are great stoppers but not the lightest, cane creeks, Zero gravity or mavics are a good choice
Even AC 350's weigh 1350g a saving of over 200g from Ksyriums or Euros and cost what $500 new ? Conti Supersonics and latex tubes weigh approx 190g per wheel - not much more than lite tubbies.
Bar and stem - I'm not familiar with, whats the weight? a good light combo will be 300g - say a 3TTT prima 199 and a Syntace F99 stem total of $150

Thats a good start - give us more info - what do you weigh? what kinda climbs do you plan on attacking?


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## miketrackman (Sep 27, 2005)

*Cassette*

Get an aluminum/scandium/Ti cassette. They sell them made of all three materials in different gears for weight and durability issues. Look at KCNC cassettes on ebay. They weigh 108-130 grams depending on what your spread is. That is about 80 grams lighter then record.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

*Extralite UltraClimb SL are clinchers....*










They also have the _*UltraClimb SP 1190g*_ Claimed:








 Weight: 1190Gr / set.

Hubs: Extralite UltraHubs SP.

Spokes: straight pull black bladed, 24+28.

Rims:  Aluminium, clincher, 18.7mm x w24.5mm.

Compatible: Shimano, Campagnolo.

Finishing: black anodized.

Graphics: laser etched.

Nipples: black Ergal.




Also the _*UltraClimb SPN 895g*_ Tubular Wheels...
Weight: 865Gr / set.

Lacing: straight pull.

Hubs: Extralite UltraHubs SP.

Nipples: Ergal, ABS system.

Compatible: Shimano, Campagnolo.

Spokes: 20+24 DB bladed beta Titanium.

Rims:  Tubolar, Nano Elite Carbon 18mm x w24mm.

Graphics: Extreme + Extralite decals.

Finishing: natural carbon.


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## Mr. Scary (Dec 7, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> They also have the _*UltraClimb SP 1190g*_ Claimed:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey Dirt Boy,
I checked your site but didn't see this, how about prices on the Extralite road wheels?


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## moose8500 (Jun 18, 2005)

yea can I see prices.... How is durability for the carbon tubies? Can they be daily use?


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## maui mike (Nov 8, 2004)

*AC 350's*

I ride AC 350's built up with Sapim Spokes. My set weigh in at 1282 grams. 
These are my daily riders and have no problems. I weigh 170lbs and 5'11"
And still true. Been riding these for two years.

How light do you want to go. 13,14 or 15lbs?

I built up a 2005 Sworks E5 at 14.5 lbs with computer and cages. and riding the bike up hills is almost effortless compared to my old Allez Elite.

Another favorite componet on my bike is my Zero G brakes. uber light


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## schills (Jan 16, 2002)

*Change the frame*

That BMC frame is not that light. Get the Scott Carbon frame.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

*The pricing is there..*

*Road Wheels

*But the UC SL are no longer availabe. The SP can be built with Pilar Blue Titanium Spokes for an upgrade charge.


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## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

Fanaticbiking said:


> Ok, I have always wanted to build a climbing specific bike and have chosen to convert one of my pervious bike to do so.
> 
> I will list bike as it is and am curious what people suggest to lighten up.
> 
> ...


So all in all you could save 750g + depending on what you already have. The wheels will make the most difference. Alternatively if you want to try tubulars have a look at ambrosio crono on extralite hubs. They should come in at about the same as the Extralite wheel weight but the tyres will be lighter as they have no need for tubes.


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## Mr. Scary (Dec 7, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> *Road Wheels
> 
> *But the UC SL are no longer availabe. The SP can be built with Pilar Blue Titanium Spokes for an upgrade charge.


Thanks (I was looking in the wrong section), that is a good price. I'll keep these wheels in mind.


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## fleck (Mar 25, 2005)

moose8500 said:


> yea, but you also have to take into account that those AC are really just race only, and need to be coated after every ride with a special gel so that the mag doesn't corrode... Just somethhing to consider. I would suggest some zipp 202s, hyperions, lightweights, etc, clinchers, which will be around 1300 but rideable.



?
The AC website doesn't say anything about treating them after use. Also, there are several frame manufactures using Mag and none recommend any treatment. They do protect the frames with a coating but that is done by a dipping process and applied before painting. I'll have to ask my friend at Paketa if this has merrit. I was just thinking they were race use only because of the rim stregenth.


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## fleck (Mar 25, 2005)

switch to down tube shifters
make sure you are buying light tires.
you can even remove the padding on the SLR for more weight savings
check out the M2 Racer orb ti pedals... I'm ridding them now, supper light and very soild.
zipp has some new bars out at 160 grams...
syntace stem at just over 100

but a big weight savings...
don't bring too much water


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

*So many things you can do....*

here are my suggestions for a climbing bike.

*
FSA K-Force Mega-Exo Compact Crankset and BB*
Ditch these and go with the Extralite E-Bones WRC with just the 34T or use the MTB verions and run a smaller single chainring. These cranks will save over 200g. 

* Easton Ec-70 Zero Seat post*
Extralite ThePost UL2 XS, M2 Racer, Ultimate or AX-Lightness
Most will save 25g+

* SLR gel flow saddle
*Tune Concord 55g or M2 Racer saddle

* ITM Millennium handelbar*
Zipp SL carbon bar, Kestrel EMS Pro SL, Schmolke Carbon

* ITM Forged lite stem*
Syntace F99/119 or the Extralite Roadstem UL

* Campy Eurus Wheels or Ksyrium SSC Sl wheels
*So many wheels clices including handbuilts. Tune Hubs with several rims. 
Run no FD if you use a single chainring, 1 Brake only and soem really light tires and tubes.

All this could save over 1.5lbs and maybe more.


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## Peith (Feb 16, 2006)

check out the Easton EC90 SLX fork; i've heard very good things.

Also, Bontrager is doing a carbon clincher wheel that seems to look very nice for strength/weight/practicality. See if you can find a local trek dealer doing a wheel demo for them, i've heard rumors of that. Not the ABSOLUTE lightest wheels you can get, but a very good choice IMO.

Definately try and get your hands on those Zero G brakes that some other people were mentioning : )


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## Fanaticbiking (Sep 14, 2005)

I switched the record and fsa to full dura ace and dropped a pound! HA

Plus I like the more comfortable hoods


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## GnarleySpoke (Mar 20, 2006)

*The new Cervelo R3 might help as well.*

Hello there,

I recently unpacked the new Cervelo climbing frame, the R3. The 56 cm weighs 870 grams. The frame was built to climb, descend and surpass safety tests.

No weight limit, lifetime warranty.


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## jhbeeton (Dec 8, 2004)

*So Lucky!*

I am anxiously awaiting delivery of my 58cm R3 .... what fork are you going to use .. I think that I will continue to use the Ouzo pro I had on my R2.5 as I prefer to see a little more beef on the front end rather than the rather svelte Alpha fork that is spec'd.

Really psyched for the new frame.



GnarleySpoke said:


> Hello there,
> 
> I recently unpacked the new Cervelo climbing frame, the R3. The 56 cm weighs 870 grams. The frame was built to climb, descend and surpass safety tests.
> 
> No weight limit, lifetime warranty.


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## GnarleySpoke (Mar 20, 2006)

*Fork on R3 and Cable Rub*

I got the frame with the Alpha Q - works nice for me but...

Hope this helps... The gear housing stops that are braised on the underside of the down tube are in a strange location and if you leave the gear cable housing on the long side when building up the frame, the cable housing will lodge itself between the fork and the head tube when riding and leave wear marks on the top of the fork.

I found it tricky to get it the right length so it would rub on some protective tape and not slip down.


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## jhbeeton (Dec 8, 2004)

*Cervello Quirks*

I found the same thing to happen on my R2.5.

Also, check the cable routing of the front derailler cable below the BB. I had to install a plastic liner over the cable to extend the protection that the stock cable guide did not cover. I was told that this was a temporary glitch in vendor supplied accessories but every R2.5 had the same detail.

Let me know how it rides once you get a chance.

J



GnarleySpoke said:


> I got the frame with the Alpha Q - works nice for me but...
> 
> Hope this helps... The gear housing stops that are braised on the underside of the down tube are in a strange location and if you leave the gear cable housing on the long side when building up the frame, the cable housing will lodge itself between the fork and the head tube when riding and leave wear marks on the top of the fork.
> 
> I found it tricky to get it the right length so it would rub on some protective tape and not slip down.


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## GnarleySpoke (Mar 20, 2006)

*Cervelo R3 - Cable Placement and Rubbing Issue*

Hello there,

Here are a few pictures. Maybe someone has a solution on how to hang the cable housing so it's not too short, yet doesn't rub. Also I have a couple shots of the R3 bottom bracket area where the front derailer cable passes through.

Underside











Up to front derailer










Right Side










Before shortening the cable housing. Note wear after 1 ride (100miles)










After Shortening - it can still slip in the space between fork and head tube. Can't make shorter.


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## jhbeeton (Dec 8, 2004)

*cable liner/noodle*

As I said earlier, you have to extend the protection from the stock cable guide under the BB past where the last contact with the frame takes place. The easiest way is by using some cable liner ( found at your LBS ) normally used to protect top tubes from brake and derailler cable rub on MTB's. Be sure to periodically slide it out of place & lube as it will collect debris and moisture unless you install a cable bootie often found in sealed cable systems ( looks like an accordian inch worm that seals the exposed end of the cable and seats itself on the liner side).

I have done this on my MTB bike to keep it shifting clean and reliably rain or shine.




GnarleySpoke said:


> Hello there,
> 
> Here are a few pictures. Maybe someone has a solution on how to hang the cable housing so it's not too short, yet doesn't rub. Also I have a couple shots of the R3 bottom bracket area where the front derailer cable passes through.
> 
> ...


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