# Bottom Bracket Lube? Loctite or Anti-Seize ??



## DHallerman (Mar 28, 2008)

*So, what type of lubricant do you use for installing a cartridge bottom bracket?*

I've almost always used threadlocker, Loctite 242 (the blue stuff), for steel bottom bracket threads going into a steel frame. Also used 242 threadlocker for alloy BB threads going into steel, or steel BB threads going into a ti frame.

While they've worked well, I had problems with removing a bottom bracket from a steel frame this weekend.

So, I'm wondering about using anti-seize, especially, or perhaps grease.

Would they hold well enough, for British bottom bracket shells?

I just wonder if anti-seize would be a better lubricant than Loctite 242.

Your experiences have been...? ? ?

Dave, _who finds that bottom bracket shells that he's worked with lately have finicky threads_


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

thread locker? that is crazy. i guess you dont torque stuff down properly. a loctited bb would be a pain to remove. i use antisieze or grease and proper torque(usually around 30-35 ft/lb).


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

grease and the proper torque, like ^he said^...


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## DHallerman (Mar 28, 2008)

*Various Perspectives*



reptilezs said:


> thread locker? that is crazy. i guess you dont torque stuff down properly. a loctited bb would be a pain to remove. i use antisieze or grease and proper torque(usually around 30-35 ft/lb).


Threadlocker.

Debatable, for sure.

Crazy? I don't think so, unless you think that Park Tool knows little about bike mechanics.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

To quote: "_Begin by preparing the threads of the bottom bracket. A thread locker may be used when the frame shell is steel and the cups are either aluminum or steel lockrings. A mild thread locking compound such as Loctite® #242 that is considered "service removeable" is preferred._"

So, while I know that a reputable source says Loctite 242 is one good lube, just looking to see what others use.

So, you use anti-seize or grease. How do you decide which one to use when?

Dave, _who has built up over 50 bikes from just frames for himself and his wife and his friends so is not new to this ballgame_


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## golfernut78 (Mar 19, 2009)

replaced a cartridge bottom bracket on my steel mountain bike last year. it a 4' cheater bar, blow torch, and 4 guys in the bike shop to get the drive side cup and axle out and then it took me 45 minutes that night to carefully saw the non-drive side cup out and then get the shell re-threaded.

i now use park lube and check it every 3 months.


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## saddle tramp (Feb 22, 2006)

For fastening dissimilar metals, aluminum cups to steel frame, I use zinc antiseize. Good luck finding it. If you live in SE Wi I'd be happy to give you a dab...


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## BikeFixer (May 19, 2009)

Anti Seize or grease is fine it's basically providing a barrier and corrosion preventative so just in case you ever want to remove the BB it will be possible  

Using LockTite really isn't needed thought it really won't hurt aything (don't use red  )unless you are installing an Italian BB you should definitely use it on the right hand cup at least..


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

DHallerman said:


> Threadlocker.
> 
> Debatable, for sure.
> 
> ...


depends on where i am at. at home its antisieze, which i prefer. the shop its usually grease due to availability. while loc tite is a good lube during installation, it does not provide the superior corrosion protection that anti sieze has. loctite+corroded bb is going to one tough fight to get out. a lot of torque will be necessary. i also have never had/seen a bb unthread unless the bearings were seized. 

dugg-"i disagree with park tools"


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## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

is 242 the blue or green?? blue seems a little too much.



DHallerman said:


> Threadlocker.
> 
> Debatable, for sure.
> 
> ...


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## TWB8s (Sep 18, 2003)

BikeFixer said:


> Using LockTite really isn't needed thought it really won't hurt aything (don't use red  )unless you are installing an Italian BB you should definitely use it on the right hand cup at least..



and are a wimp. Us the correct tools and appropriate torque and it won't back out. Grease or anti-seize on the threads. If it's Italian and has a cut-out in the BB shell or just has a cut out in the BB shell, you'll have to periodically remove, clean and reinstall the BB. BB's are rarely ever install and forget for life.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

loctite???


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

I just use grease, too -- I've only ever used blue loctite on an Italian-threaded BB, on an older frame, fixie conversion -- the BB kept "walking" in the shell.

If you need to use a thread-locker on most BB's, there's something else wrong, atmo.


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## DHallerman (Mar 28, 2008)

*Thanks For...*

Thanks for the varied perspectives. I might try anti-seize when I reinstall the bottom bracket (anti-seize because it's more weather- and time-resistant than grease).

But I do find it fascinating how several people just dismissed -- and dissed -- the idea of using Loctite on bottom bracket threads.

Fascinating because not only does the Park Tool site recommend it, but also I checked since my initial post, the Barnett's Manual suggests Loctite too. In fact, in Chapter 10 it basically gives reasons why Loctite is better than anti-seize.

Fascinating, because in essence some people are saying they know more about bike mechanics than both Park Tool and the Barnett Bicycle Institute.

Perhaps these people actually do know more, but in the light of what Park and Barnett have done in this space, where is the authority to just dismiss a technique suggested by those professional sources?

Perhaps the authority is there. Could you please in some way bring some light to it?

Dave, _who says a mix of professional sources and crowd-sourced ideas could be an ideal mix if you can in some way vet all the sources_


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

what are the reasons that barnnett's manual give? i am curious. i am going to guess they cite that thread lock fills the voids of the threads so no oxygen can get in and corrode the threads. by this reasoning one would have to coat all the threads with thread lock. one thing for sure is thread lock compound is not cheap. my reasoning for anti seize is that the zinc or copper is a sacrificial metal. it corrodes first before anything else. same as the rod in your hot water heater and galvanized steel. the grease/oil binder also provides a film barrier.


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## DHallerman (Mar 28, 2008)

*Details*



reptilezs said:


> what are the reasons that barnnett's manual give? i am curious. i am going to guess they cite that thread lock fills the voids of the threads so no oxygen can get in and corrode the threads. by this reasoning one would have to coat all the threads with thread lock. one thing for sure is thread lock compound is not cheap. my reasoning for anti seize is that the zinc or copper is a sacrificial metal. it corrodes first before anything else. same as the rod in your hot water heater and galvanized steel. the grease/oil binder also provides a film barrier.


Yes, the Barnett's manual does say to coat all the threads.

In specific, the manual notes:

"In either case, the disadvantages of working with anti-seize compounds are that they are messy and difficult to clean up, they may still wash out in the worst cases of exposure to moisture, and they do not enhance the security of the cups. The advantage of anti-seize compound is that it retains most of its benefit if the parts are taken apart and then reassembled without additional application of anti-seize."​
_furthermore_

"Loctite is a compound that is applied to the threads and then cures after the installation of threaded item to a hard material. It seals the threaded area from exposure to the atmosphere and moisture. Once cured, the effectiveness remains complete until the part is unthreaded. In addition to sealing the threaded area, Loctite increases the level of security that is achieved through the torque setting on the threaded part. Loctite is less messy to work with than anti-seize compounds and cannot dry out, evaporate, or wash out. Because Loctite on the threads adds security, it reduces the amount of torque needed to secure the part. The disadvantage of Loctite is that it breaks down if the threaded part is turned after the curing starts. Therefore, each time the part is adjusted, or removed and reinstalled, additional Loctite needs to be applied."​
Barnett's Chapter 10

So, my takeaway from those statements: Loctite holds the threads better than anti-seize, but anti-seize is more flexible to work with.

Dave, _who really likes reasoning on these things_


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

well im still going to use anti seize. thread lock is way too expensive in a shop or home environment. that is a lot of threads to cover. if someone were to take the loctite method and not completely understand the concept(i assume that many would just put a few drops on like they would a bolt) they will have a handful with the bb if its corroded.


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

I've been using teflon tape on my Ti bikes and my one steel frame bike. Seems to work fine. No noise and I can remove them when I want.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

loc tite...weird. 

i've been at this bike think for a long time and i've never used loc tite on a bb...except for really old calfees. i used to use teflon tape and either grease or anti seize. now i just use grease, excepting ti frames which get anti seize. 
i've definitely seen things get stuck when installed w/ grease or anti seize, but as a previous poster stated, bb's aren't an 'install and forget' piece...they should be removed, cleaned and re installed regularly.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*+1*



cxwrench said:


> i've been at this bike think for a long time and i've never used loc tite on a bb...except for really old calfees. i used to use teflon tape and either grease or anti seize. now i just use grease, excepting ti frames which get anti seize.
> i've definitely seen things get stuck when installed w/ grease or anti seize, but as a previous poster stated, bb's aren't an 'install and forget' piece...they should be removed, cleaned and re installed regularly.


110% agreements on both points! I started with anti-seize on my Ti frame, but have used grease for a decade with no issues. As far as I'm concerned, and I have learned through experience, there is no part on a bike that can be installed and forgotton, regardless of the methods used. Everything needs to be removed, cleaned, and relubed on some regular basis unless you want to find yourself with stuck parts.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

still not gonna use loctite

FatTireFred, _who thinks talking about oneself in the third person is kinda odd._


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## lawrence (May 17, 2005)

I would use a graphite based anti seize. Get it in a plumbing supply store or HD/Lowe's.


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## Guest (Feb 3, 2010)

What do you think of silicone cement. Can always back it off and yes it will
be a clean job because all of it will harden but not like loctite.
This is a good post and I am going to read them all. Un-Like metals
do cause a chemical reaction.
Like to hear more.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Grease and proper torque.


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## winmac (Sep 30, 2007)

I am just getting started with putting my own bikes together & I was wondering how important is a torque wrench & which one should I have?
Pedros makes a nice one but the Park ones are cheaper.
Plus what brands of grease/lube/etc. do you recommend?

Thank you


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

Any grease is fine. Whatever you use on you car, or check out auto section of any store. Doesn't need to be bike specific grease.
Lots of nice torque wrenches out there. I have a Craftsman and it has served me well for years. Good investment.


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

i never understood teflon tape, why? i know what it is really meant for and have used it for plumbing but bottom brackets?

for grease i like one that is stringy and sticky. lucas red n tacky is an example. get it at home depot. others like a more traditional type. dont even bother with park grease. overpriced

i use a torque wrench from utica


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

reptilezs said:


> i never understood teflon tape, why? i know what it is really meant for and have used it for plumbing but bottom brackets?
> 
> for grease i like one that is stringy and sticky. lucas red n tacky is an example. get it at home depot. others like a more traditional type. dont even bother with park grease. overpriced
> 
> i use a torque wrench from utica


Ti frames can develop a creaking noise in the bottom bracket. The teflon tape seems to solve that problem. My hunch is that it also provides a better longer lasting seal than grease.


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