# Shimano 7850 SL owners call



## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

Hi All,

My free hub is so quiet I am unable to hear it when coasting. I hear the front wheel tire noise but not the rear wheel. I was wondering is this a norm for Shimano hubs? In a shop recently I spun a rear Mavic wheel.... it was war cries!


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## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

Shimano hubs are notoriously quiet. Mavic are the Harley-straight-pipes of bicycle hubs.

BTW, what do you think of your wheelset? I'm thinking of buying a pair.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

fast ferd said:


> Shimano hubs are notoriously quiet. Mavic are the Harley-straight-pipes of bicycle hubs.
> 
> BTW, what do you think of your wheelset? I'm thinking of buying a pair.



Thanks for chiming in. I am not complaining about the quietness, was just bemused.

Like 7850 SL very much. Even the graphics (which in this case I dislike as they do not go with the bike) are quality paint on, not stickers. Running Fusion tubeless and so far - knock on wood - all is dandy.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

I received my wheels yesterday and tires are due to arrive today or Monday. I will give a report on mounting and ride. I have Stan's sealant to put in them.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

dekindy said:


> I received my wheels yesterday and tires are due to arrive today or Monday. I will give a report on mounting and ride. I have Stan's sealant to put in them.


What tires you are going to mount?


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

I really prefer Shimano Dura-Ace hubs and like how quiet they are. I have three road bikes - all three have Dura-Ace wheels: 7850-SL, 7850-C24-CL, and WH-7801. I have over 7000 miles on my SL's. I haven't done anything with them since I got them other than ride them. I use Fusion2's with no sealant. I don't ride my SL's as much as I used to since getting the C24's, which is really an amazing wheel. Still, if you can afford them, the SL's are a nice wheel.


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## cartmaniac (Jun 6, 2007)

I have 4000 miles on my WH-7850-SL wheels since buying them last summer. I love them! They are perfectly true, silky smooth, and beautiful. I would definitely buy them again. And yes, the hubs are quiet --- as they should be.

I switched to the Hutchinson Fusion 2 tubeless tires about 1200 miles ago. I do not use sealant (feeling lucky I guess). I might put in some sealant when the tires start to look thin and vulnerable. But so far, I'm very impressed with the tire wear at 1200 miles.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

LO^OK said:


> What tires you are going to mount?


Hutchinson Fusion 2 tubeless since it is currently the only tubeless option.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

dekindy said:


> Hutchinson Fusion 2 tubeless since it is currently the only tubeless option.


Not sure about that... Hutchinson have three different road tubeless tires; IRC road tubeless tire should be available too.


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## rwbadley (Apr 13, 2002)

Dr_John said:


> I really prefer Shimano Dura-Ace hubs and like how quiet they are. I have three road bikes - all three have Dura-Ace wheels: 7850-SL, 7850-C24-CL, and WH-7801. I have over 7000 miles on my SL's. I haven't done anything with them since I got them other than ride them. I use Fusion2's with no sealant. I don't ride my SL's as much as I used to since getting the C24's, which is really an amazing wheel. Still, if you can afford them, the SL's are a nice wheel.


I've been looking at these two wheels as options. I hear the new c-24 will also be tubeless compatible. Tell us if you will a bit more on the sl/cl differences. Does the cl have an adequate braking surface? Feel quicker or more lively? Ride better etc? I like the sl's price right now it looks I could get a set shipped for 700-750, I don't know how much the cl will be (actually, I think the new c24 tubeless will be tl not cl)

Thanks


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

LO^OK said:


> Not sure about that... Hutchinson have three different road tubeless tires; IRC road tubeless tire should be available too.


If you can find the other two Hutchinson models, let me know. The Fusion 2 tubeless model is out of stock just about everywhere. I found some for $58+ at GottaRideBikes that included free shipping on orders $75. Mailing is USPS priority and arrived in Indiana in five days coming from Texas. Biketiresdirect advertises them for $50 and is the cheapest I found. They were out of stock the last time I checked this past Monday. 

Who is IRC? Are their tires on the market?

The models Specialized are due to offer are Hutchinson's as far as I can determine from what I have read. A buddy has had 7801's almost since they came out and follows road tubeless closely. He is not aware of any other options.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

I got my first tire mounted. It went on easily, in fact too easily. I had it mounted before I remembered that I could not find a tire tool that I thought was supposed to come with the wheel set.

Since I had the tire on the rim I tried to air it up without success. However I did not have it hanging suspended midair like the Stan’s video instructions recommend. I took my plastic levers and removed the tire fairly easily and just enough to pour in the Stan’s sealant. It does not appear that I damaged the bead. I then proceeded to moisten the sidewalls and put in the sealant. I now understand why they recommend replacing the stem with a model that has a removable valve core. Putting two ounces of liquid in the tire is messy. It tends to come out when you try to move the bead to the middle of the channel for easier tire installation.

The second installation of the same tire was more difficult since the tire was slick from water and sealant. After I got a couple of rags and put some muscle into it I got it installed. I am a wimp when it comes to pain and hand strength and I got it installed without breaking a sweat or getting a blister. My observation would be that if I can do it anybody can. Now I will install the other tire and let them set for a couple of days and verify they don’t leak air. I hope to ride them in the next few days and give a report.

EDIT: The second tire was more difficult to mount since it was only the first time to mount it. It was not very difficult, just required patience and was a little time consuming. I found a different way to spill the sealant on this one. Stan's valve stems with the removable core is the only way to go if you want to use Stan's sealant.

I don't know how much sealant I actually got in or how effective it will be. I was careful to hold the bottle spout down and get all the crystals into the tire as instructed. I am not going to test it like Stan does and will just have to trust that I did it right.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

dekindy said:


> If you can find the other two Hutchinson models, let me know. The Fusion 2 tubeless model is out of stock just about everywhere. I found some for $58+ at GottaRideBikes that included free shipping on orders $75. Mailing is USPS priority and arrived in Indiana in five days coming from Texas. Biketiresdirect advertises them for $50 and is the cheapest I found. They were out of stock the last time I checked this past Monday.
> 
> Who is IRC? Are their tires on the market?
> 
> The models Specialized are due to offer are Hutchinson's as far as I can determine from what I have read. A buddy has had 7801's almost since they came out and follows road tubeless closely. He is not aware of any other options.


Well, I am based in Europe and cannot comment on the situation in the US. Atom road tubeless (a lighter single compound tire than Fusion 2) was commercially available in online stores 1 year ago. Hutchinson "Intensive" is a new tire and it should be on the market.

In my view, probably the biggest obstacle for the new tubeless system is the retail. I live in Belgium and retailers simply cannot be bothered to stock tubeless products. To a degree the same apply for the Belgian distributor. The most likely reason is that the system yet lack a wide customer base and they don't expect to sell sizeable volumes quickly. But in effect they sabotage the road tubeless. If you can't find it you are not going to buy it.

IRC corporate site in English have not been updated since 2005. However, the tires dubbed Pro Tubeless, two models with different compound, are listed on the Japanese site:

http://www.irc-tire.com/bc/ 

Info also here:

http://www.bike-eu.com/products/2892/irc-road-tubeless-tyres.html

The tires are either on the market or about to hit the market.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

I installed the tires myself and can confirm that was trouble free. I haven't experienced leaks for weeks. To ensure air-tightness, before mounting the tires, I disassembled the valves, wetted the rubber gaskets, re-assembled and tightened well. 

Had to install the tires without the Stick'Air levers as I couldn't find where to buy them. After mounting one side is very helpful to move the bead into the center of the rim where there is a depression. After fitting the second bead I wetted the rim edges and pressed the tire repeatedly while rotating the rim so the beads can move from the center of the rim onto the rim channels. After doing this achieving air tight seal with a floor pump was quick and easy.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> Putting two ounces of liquid in the tire is messy. It tends to come out when you try to move the bead to the middle of the channel for easier tire installation.


As I mentioned, you do not need to use any sealant (Stan's or Hutchinson's) with the 7850-SL/fusion 2 pairing. When I started out using road tubeless I did, but as I road more I really didn't see any advantage. For most of my flats on the road, the hole was too big to seal with sealant, so then I'd have to tube up out on the road with and contend with the goo. So now I treat my tubeless just like a tube. I flat on the road, I just put a tube in. No big deal. I thought this might be difficult to do on the road, but it's no harder than for a standard tire. If you need sealant to seal the bead to the rim, you're most likely damaging the bead while mounting. Some will seal better than others, but I've never had a problem, and for me, the air loss is comparable to a tubed tire.



> Biketiresdirect advertises them for $50 and is the cheapest I found. They were out of stock the last time I checked this past Monday.


That has been my experience too. The supply has always been sporadic, so when they're available, I usually just buy three or four. Plus at Biketiresdirect, you get them for $47.50 each if you buy three.



> I've been looking at these two wheels as options. I hear the new c-24 will also be tubeless compatible.


That's the rumor. Personally I don't believe we'll be seeing them retail any time soon. The reason I have the 7850-SL's and the 7850 C24 CL's is that I got tired of waiting for the C24's and needed a new wheelset. The only drawback of the C24's is the price. I really like them a lot. The braking surface looks to be the same as the 7850-SL's, and is the same width. That's one thing I like: I can quickly move them amongst my bikes without having to swap brake pads. No idea about the thickness. I suspect it is thinner, but I've never worn out a set of wheels, so it's really not a concern to me. The weight of the wheel is close to as claimed. Mine were 1390 g. They really ride great. And as a plus, IMO, they're gorgeous, in a nice, understated way. No tacky carbon weave. I should mention that I'm only 145 lbs. No idea what the experience would be like for a heavier rider.


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## a4blur (Feb 27, 2005)

I have about 2000 miles on my WH-7850SL wheels since buying them in September 08. They remained true under my 170lbs. silky smooth, and beautiful. I would definitely buy them again. The hubs are eerily quiet, which is great.

I also been running the Hutchinson Fusion 2 tubeless tires since the onset, with Stan's sealant. The tires appear to have another 2K to go.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

I got the wheels installed last night along with new brake pads and got everything aligned perfectly. Boy, do these wheels really make my bike look good. I have a bare titanium Serotta Legend with red decals and black everywhere else. The black rims and spokes go well and the hubs are shiny. There is just enough red in the wheel decals along with white and black that it really sets off the bike.

With any luck I will ride them tonight. It is going to be tough though. I rode in full summer gear Tuesday evening, even in strong winds, and woke up to sub-20 degree Fahrenheit wind chill Wednesday morning. It will be full winter attire tonight. I can't wait to take them on a warm, fast ride, to see how they do.

The tires lost very little air over several days so it appears that they sidewalls have sealed well and there are no leaks. I used sealant.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

I can add a bit more. I have almost 8,000 miles on my 7850-SL's. Like all my Dura Ace wheels, not a single problem, I've done absolutely no maintenance/truing, etc. I typically get 3500 miles out of the front. To be honest, no idea about the rear. The most I've ever gotten is 2,000 miles, but it was retired due to sidewall damage. I had a bad run there, and I was damaging sidewalls frequently. It certainly was the fault of the Fusion 2's. I would have replaced any tire.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

The higher end and racier the wheel is, the more likely it is to make noise while it's moving but you're not pedaling. At some point "Quick Freewheel Engagement" became the big fad, and now (as I understand it) it's the case that if you stop pedaling then start pedaling, your leg moves 0.1 mm less than it used to before your leg actually starts moving the bike forward. 'course if you actually needed that power, you wouldn't have stopped pedaling in the first place. In exchange, your wheel sounds like a giant fishing reel when you coast.

It spawned such sayings as (and imagine bike guys have that religious revelation look in their eyes) "That's the sound of quality".

Personally, I think it's a bunch of [email protected]#[email protected]!#, but what am I going to do - replace the $500 wheel that came with my bike so it's quite when I'm not pedaling? :-(

P.S. If you *really* want to hear it, try finding a Chris King hub. It's like you're been chased by a swarm of angry bees!


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## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

dekindy said:


> I got the wheels installed last night along with new brake pads and got everything aligned perfectly. Boy, do these wheels really make my bike look good. I have a bare titanium Serotta Legend with red decals and black everywhere else. The black rims and spokes go well and the hubs are shiny. There is just enough red in the wheel decals along with white and black that it really sets off the bike.
> 
> With any luck I will ride them tonight. It is going to be tough though. I rode in full summer gear Tuesday evening, even in strong winds, and woke up to sub-20 degree Fahrenheit wind chill Wednesday morning. It will be full winter attire tonight. I can't wait to take them on a warm, fast ride, to see how they do.
> 
> The tires lost very little air over several days so it appears that they sidewalls have sealed well and there are no leaks. I used sealant.


My Merlin should look similar with a set of the scandiums on there. Can you upload a pic here to show us your talent? Tried to look at your gallery, but you've got a zillion photos in there.

Thanks in advance.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

I rode the wheels last night and am left wondering why road tubeless has not caught on yet. It was everything that I was hoping for. I just saw a request for a picture. I will try and get that posted tomorrow. I took the bike in to have the wheels inspected and no adjustments were needed. The LBS manager is a CAT 4 and desperately would like to have a set of these wheels for racing. Everyone commented on how sharp the bike and wheel combination is. I am pleased and do not intend to change a thing regarding colors. The bare titanium and black and touches of red are classy and I likes it!


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## dragon (Jul 31, 2007)

LO^OK said:


> Thanks for chiming in. I am not complaining about the quietness, was just bemused.
> 
> Like 7850 SL very much. Even the graphics (which in this case I dislike as they do not go with the bike) are quality paint on, not stickers. Running Fusion tubeless and so far - knock on wood - all is dandy.


hi, you say these red/white things are NOT stickers?? omg. thats bad :mad2: 

this doesnt fit to all bikes.. no chance of removing?

and: 

ARE THE BREAK SIDEWALLS very thin? or can i use them in the winter with bad conditions too ?


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## dragon (Jul 31, 2007)

@ ALL: 

which one is more comfortable

7850 c24 cl with stans tape and fusion2
7850 SL with fusion2

and: the same with normal clinchers.. which is smoother? 

cant decide..


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

Here's a picture of my bare titanium Serotta Legend with red decals, black everything else, and new 7850SL wheels with Fusion 2 road tubeless tires.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

dragon said:


> hi, you say these red/white things are NOT stickers?? omg. thats bad :mad2:
> 
> this doesnt fit to all bikes.. no chance of removing?
> 
> ...


The White/Red graphics and the Dura Ace lettering are all painted on. Excellent quality job but if the style doesn't suit your bike the options are two. Either paint thinner/remover or carefully cut and applied coloured adhesive film.

I wouldn't hesitate to use the wheels in bad weather.


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## dragon (Jul 31, 2007)

is it right, the the following next model to the 7850 SL will be the WH 7850 C24 TL ? 
because the marketing says "even 100g" lighter than the actual model...

so this scandium experiment will come to an end........


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> is it right, the the following next model to the 7850 SL will be the WH 7850 C24 TL ?


Yes, the 7850 C24 TL is the successor to the 7850 SL, and can be thought of the current C24 CL being made tubeless compatible. They are suppose to be about 1400 g, which while slightly heavier than the current C24 CL, is pretty nice. The 7850 C24 TL were supposed to be available in July '08, so it should be any day now...


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## dougrocky123 (Apr 12, 2006)

*Further questions*

So if I read things correctly you get special tire irons with these wheels for tubeless tire mounting but not removable core valve stems? You have to buy the special stems from Stans Notubes? Also I'm kind of heavy at 200 lbs. do you think these wheels will hold up? Thanks in advance.


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## LO^OK (Feb 1, 2008)

dougrocky123 said:


> So if I read things correctly you get special tire irons with these wheels for tubeless tire mounting but not removable core valve stems? You have to buy the special stems from Stans Notubes? Also I'm kind of heavy at 200 lbs. do you think these wheels will hold up? Thanks in advance.


Don't know how the 7850-SL are sold in the US. I bought mines from Netherlands and all they came with was wheel bags, the quick releases, a miniature spoke wrench, and a nifty wheel magnet. Sadly, no the dedicated tire levers. I cannot find them as Hutchinson Benelux distributor do not supply them.

I am heavier than you, about 250 lbs. , and to date haven't had any issues. The tubeless Fusion 2 comes with suggested tire pressures in accordance with rider's weight and you are pretty comfortably within the middle group of 65 - 75 kg (190 - 220 lbs). Hardly anything to worry about.


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## hotshot (Apr 18, 2008)

Hope this works....here is my bike with the wheels...


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> So if I read things correctly you get special tire irons with these wheels for tubeless tire mounting but not removable core valve stems? You have to buy the special stems from Stans Notubes?


In the US, they come with the removable stems (I've heard that if you buy Shimano replacements, they're like $50 apiece), but not tire irons. Contrary to what may be said, you don't need tubeless specific tire irons. You favorite plastic ones will do. Just no metal, to minimize damaging the bead.


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## dragon (Jul 31, 2007)

Dr_John said:


> Yes, the 7850 C24 TL is the successor to the 7850 SL, and can be thought of the current C24 CL being made tubeless compatible. They are suppose to be about 1400 g, which while slightly heavier than the current C24 CL, is pretty nice. The 7850 C24 TL were supposed to be available in July '08, so it should be any day now...


yea, any day now.... 

someone in there was a dealer and told us that they arrive really soon

who was it?


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

dougrocky123 said:


> So if I read things correctly you get special tire irons with these wheels for tubeless tire mounting but not removable core valve stems? You have to buy the special stems from Stans Notubes? Also I'm kind of heavy at 200 lbs. do you think these wheels will hold up? Thanks in advance.


Correct on all counts.

Yes, they come with removeable stems but the valve core is not so you have to purchase Stan's if you want to install the sealant like he shows in his video.

Will hold up 200 lbs rider with no problem and probably no flex unless you are a brute of a sprinter.


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## dougrocky123 (Apr 12, 2006)

*Got the wheels*

Got the wheels and did the tubeless thing. Big learning curve on the mounting. The Stans stems would not seat so I went back to the Shimano. Not sure, so far, if the switch has been worth the price.


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## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

Rode mine for the first time today. IMO, pretty much a perfect wheelset. Except for mounting tires. It was a total bear installing a set of regular clinchers (Michelin Pro Race 3's) and tubes. Gawd help me if I flat out on the road.

I wonder if the tubeless mount any easier. Maybe someone has a good tip to offer up.


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## dougrocky123 (Apr 12, 2006)

*Tubeless tough*

I had a tough time with the tubeless mounting. I was scared to use the tire irons due to the dire warnings that come with the tire. Had to use them to get the wheel on and dread getting a flat out on the road. Two tips on mounting are use soapy water and have a compressor or CO2 cartridge to inflate.


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## FrankDL (Oct 8, 2003)

dougrocky123 said:


> Got the wheels and did the tubeless thing. Big learning curve on the mounting. The Stans stems would not seat so I went back to the Shimano. Not sure, so far, if the switch has been worth the price.


I initially had a problem with Stans valves not sealing tight enough, so I torqed down on the nut a bunch more and that solved it. I do wish Stans valve was as long as the Shimano one though. Don't forget to buy the core removal tool if you buy Stan's valves. 

Also, if you use Stan's valve and you have it on tight, be sure you have a small pliers (I have a tiny vice-grips) to take off the valve nut if you have a flat on the road and plan on tubing up. I'm with Dr. John on the sealant issue, too much hassle, just tube up and patch when you get home. Hutchinson really gouges your wallet for their "special" patches too! And expect to find them readliy available at your LBS either.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

I was unable to avoid some very rough road this weekend. The group got to loud to hear the ride leader's cautions and I missed hearing the details on the last stretch of road. It was also hidden in shade and there was a car approaching in the oncoming lase so I had no choice but to ride it out. Luckily it was on a downhill and I am not a daredevil so my speed was not too fast.

I thought the rough road would throw me around and rattle my teeth. Thankfully, these wheels and tires absorbed the shock beyond my belief. I could feel the tires flexing and absorbing the shock. Based upon comments I read, I at least expected to find some cuts in the tire tread and/or sidewall. The tire was unscathed and the wheel is still perfectly true. I am now even more sold on these wheels. They might even have saved me from wrecking. It is also comforting to know that the front tire is less likely to come off the rim if it flats in a situation like that.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> I'm with Dr. John on the sealant issue, too much hassle, just tube up and patch when you get home.


Yep. Just flatted again. Tubed up, back rolling in no more time than fixing a flat on a conventional clincher set up. After getting home and pulling the tire off and inspecting carefully, no way would sealer have sealed it. It was a bad enough gash that I won't bother patching it. Not sure if it's just because I'm way more experienced at mounting, or what, but I mounted the new replacement Fusion 2 tubeless on my 7850 SL without even using a tire iron. Bead locked immediately too, so it was easy to inflate the tire with a standard floor pump. FWIW, I do use soapy water along the bead, which seems help the bead lock into place with just a few pumps on the floor pump. Once it's been mounted, unmounting and remounting is very easy and doesn't require soapy water.

I confess, when I first started using road tubeless I was paranoid about flatting on the road. I don't even give it a second thought now.


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## myitch (Apr 19, 2009)

https://www.dotbike.com/A_Resources/ProductImages003/P3845_250.jpg

Here's one of my most valuable tools I ever bought. This one is on a European website but I bought mine several years back from a US company. Can't remember where though.


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## thegreatdelcamo (Aug 20, 2008)

I've got around 3000 miles on my 7850-SLs (from Performance @$800) and they are still perfect. No flats. I do have a little bit of Stan's in them. I weighed 190 when I got them and am down to 177 now.

Only problem I've had is I get an occasional Clunk when I initiate pedaling after coasting. Sure wish they wouldn't do that!


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## NextTime (Oct 13, 2007)

*Trouble getting bead to set*

All - looking for your tips here:

I mounted the front tire (Hutchinson Fusion 2) on the 7850-SL rim without any real difficulty and it pumped up just fine with a floor pump.

But I'm having a real tough time pumping up the rear tire. Once mounted, I couldn't get it to take air with a foot pump. That didn't work, so I tried an air compressor - that didn't work either.

I've event tried mounting a second tire on the rim but got the same results. 

Could there be a problem with the rim or is this operator error?

Thanks for any input you may have.


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## thegreatdelcamo (Aug 20, 2008)

NextTime, the problem is most likely that there are gaps somewhere between the tire bead and the rim so air is escaping faster than you are putting it in. Make sure the bead is as snug against the rim's hook as possible, then try the air compressor again. You might also try a CO2 cartridge as they blow a lot of air very fast—possibly faster than your compressor.

If you don't see any deformity to the rim, it's operator error.


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## shaochieh (Apr 19, 2002)

Mix some water and soup together then wet the edges of the tires.


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## NextTime (Oct 13, 2007)

Thanks for the replies.

Took the wheel to the lbs and they were able to get air in the tire and the beads "to set".

The problem now is this - I pump up the tire to 120 psi and within hours it falls to 30 psi. 

I think I'm going to give up.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

If it's leaking that quickly, pump it up, and check where it's leaking with soapy water. Inspect that area to confirm there isn't some gunk in rim's slot and that you didn't damage the tire's bead while mounting it.



> Mix some water and soup together then wet the edges of the tires.


 Yep. :thumbsup: That's the way to do it. For me, very soapy water works best (maybe 1 part soap, 3-4 parts water). I can mount a tubeless as quickly as I can a standard.


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## Wheelman55 (Jul 10, 2009)

make sure to check that the valve "core" is tight in the valve stem. it's an easy fix that is often overlooked. I've had that issue on both bikes and cars.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> make sure to check that the valve "core" is tight in the valve stem.


Right. And the nut washer does have a preferred orientation, although this shouldn't really matter.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

thegreatdelcamo said:


> NextTime, the problem is most likely that there are gaps somewhere between the tire bead and the rim so air is escaping faster than you are putting it in. Make sure the bead is as snug against the rim's hook as possible, then try the air compressor again. You might also try a CO2 cartridge as they blow a lot of air very fast—possibly faster than your compressor.
> 
> If you don't see any deformity to the rim, it's operator error.


How do you get the bead to snug against the rim? The first two tires that I installed aired up fine the first time with a floor pump. I had air escaping like you reference when I installed a new rear tire. I tried to flex the tire to get it against the bead but was unsuccessful. I might have been able to do it if I had someone else to work the pump while I held the tire. 

I used CO2 for the first time ever and it worked like a charm and after a few hundred miles I have had no problems with the tire retaining air. I use Stan's sealant.


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## jiggs (Sep 17, 2002)

*what tire pressure do you run tubeless? I can't imagine*

running at 120 psi. I have used some notubes tires/rims combos from 35 mm xcross to 2.4 fat tires on the 26" and pump them up from about 20 PSI on the 2.4 to about 25-30 on the 35 mm. How high can you run the hutchinson on the 7850 rim? With or without sealant.
thanks


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

Dr_John said:


> If it's leaking that quickly, pump it up, and check where it's leaking with soapy water. Inspect that area to confirm there isn't some gunk in rim's slot and that you didn't damage the tire's bead while mounting it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



...do you recommend Cambell's soup or Progresso? lol


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## SwiftSolo (Jun 7, 2008)

dekindy said:


> I got my first tire mounted. It went on easily, in fact too easily. I had it mounted before I remembered that I could not find a tire tool that I thought was supposed to come with the wheel set.
> 
> Since I had the tire on the rim I tried to air it up without success. However I did not have it hanging suspended midair like the Stan’s video instructions recommend. I took my plastic levers and removed the tire fairly easily and just enough to pour in the Stan’s sealant. It does not appear that I damaged the bead. I then proceeded to moisten the sidewalls and put in the sealant. I now understand why they recommend replacing the stem with a model that has a removable valve core. Putting two ounces of liquid in the tire is messy. It tends to come out when you try to move the bead to the middle of the channel for easier tire installation.
> 
> ...


A couple of tips that might help (I've been using this system since it came to market). 
1. new tubeless tires that have never been mounted rarely require anything other than putting them on the rim and pumping them up with a floor pump. This is not true once the tire has been inflated and run a number of miles.
2. I always pump the tires up to pressure and release it before putting in stans. After that, simply break the bead with one tire tool, rotate the wheel till the tool / open bead is at 3 o'clock and inject the stans. If you have the other style valve stems they work well also.

I hope this helps!


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## stevieb (Sep 12, 2007)

Lots of positive experiences with the WH-7850-SL's in this thread. I guess I've just had bad luck. 

Bought 7850 SL's last season. When I got them the bearings were adjusted too tight. Minor thing to adjust, but still a bit of a surprise. Rode them all season with no complaints. 

At the start of this season I notice that the rear wheel was a bit out of true. Got out the funky little Shimano spoke wrench and started to work on them. Hmmm, one nipple wouldn't turn, then two.. and three.. I then realize that all the nipples are seized. I know that aluminum nipples on stainless spokes are prone to seize but I only got caught in the rain once with these wheels there is no reason they should have gotten seized up that easy if they were build with some proper spoke prep in the first place. 

So with some penetrating fluid and about 3 hours of patient work I managed to unlock all the nipples and make a minor tweak to a couple of spokes to bring the wheel back into true. Problem solved? No. Now the wheel goes out of true every couple of hundred miles.

At the end of the season I'm going to send the wheels into Shimano to see if I can get them rebuilt. I'm waiting till the end of the season because I won't expect to get them back anytime soon..

BTW, I'm 6'0" and 170 lbs and not a terribly powerful rider so I don't think I've been too hard on these wheels riding wise.


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## mpk1996 (May 11, 2007)

I have had my 7850-SL's for about a year now. I like the wheel and have ridden both the tubeless and regular tube/tire combos with them. I like the tubeless, but if you flat on the road and have to throw a tube in, it can be tough. the tire is very very tight and its hard to get the tire back on with out a tool. if you use the tool, you are very prone to a pinch flat (from experience). 

I also had a problem about 3 months ago with the rear rim cracking, right at the spoke nipple. the little raised area just pulled right out. Shimano gave me a new rear wheel, so we will see what happens. 

The wheel overall is kinda soft. I am a sprinter and usually have the spoke magnet turn (well, the spoke itself really) during a hard sprint. kinda causes some probs since then my comp has a hard time picking up the speed. Not sure if anyone else has this prob or not. I am a bigger guy (188 lbs) for a cyclist and sprint hard (powertap around 1550 watts or so), but wanted to let guys know

they are def not as stiff as my eurus wheels are. was thinking about getting a set of the fulcrum zeros or ones and selling these, but we'll see


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