# Please help! A total Newbie



## Jesais (Jan 19, 2009)

Hi. I'm a total newbie at this. I've been taking spinning class at the gym and can't wait to get my own road bike. I've been reading up on the different models and test rode a Specialized WSD bike today. Although, I'm so clueless as to what I need to look for when purchasing a road bike. What are the measurements and specifics I need to know when shopping? I'm 5'6 at 120 lbs. I'm hoping to purchase a performance bike and wondering if it's better to get a recreational for a beginner? Thanks!


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## jorgy (Oct 21, 2005)

Jesais said:


> Hi. I'm a total newbie at this. I've been taking spinning class at the gym and can't wait to get my own road bike. I've been reading up on the different models and test rode a Specialized WSD bike today. Although, I'm so clueless as to what I need to look for when purchasing a road bike. What are the measurements and specifics I need to know when shopping? I'm 5'6 at 120 lbs. I'm hoping to purchase a performance bike and wondering if it's better to get a recreational for a beginner? Thanks!


At 5'6" you're probably not locked into WSD bikes. I'm a bit shorter, with fairly long legs and arms, and ride a unisex bike. Do you have friends that ride? Ask them what shops they trust and head there to get fit--that's the most important thing, get the right sized bike.

There is no rule you have to get a 'recreational' bike first. If you want a performance bike, go for it. Keep in mind it will take a while for you to adjust to the bike and you'll probably be making adjustments here and there the first few months you have the bike.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Find a good shop to help you out. If you're not sure what a "good" shop is, talk to other riders in your area. When you go, they should be interested in hearing what you want out of a bike, and they shouldn't "automatically" direct you towards a WSD bike without at least sizing you up a bit to determine if one would be appropriate. I'm the same height as you, and I ride a unisex 54cm bike. I know another women who is 5'6" who rides a WSD 52cm bike. It's all about how you're built & what feels comfortable to you.


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

Test ride as many bikes as you can. See if you can tell if the bike feels leaden. Or maybe a bike will make you want to go faster or make you want to dive into corners. 

Talk to the sales people at your local bike shop when it comes to measurements and sizing. A good LBS will swap out components for you like the handlebars and stem to get the fit right.


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## orbit (Feb 7, 2007)

Plus one to all the advice above.

Nothing wrong with wanting a "performance" bike right from the start, just consider what sort of riding you want to do, the terrain in which you will be riding and your fitness level. And talk this through with the bike shop to ensure you get the right gearing. 

Enjoy, bike buying is fun.


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## X02Supermodel (Dec 20, 2008)

Trek 2.3 roughly a 54 cm. 
Full Shimano 105 with ultegra rear der. 
Carbon fork, seatpost and stays.
105 is perfect beginer componentry. In the middle of the line. Plenty nice enough to get you started but not an over kill. 
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/2_series/23/

A more performance oriented bike would get you into a full carbon frame. Which is cool but don't know how much you are looking to spend. 

Same bike as 2.3 but carbon frame.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/madone/madone45/

Full carbon/ultegra bike. TCT carbon isn't the best but would be a cool beginer but performance bike!
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/madone/madone47/

and it just goes up from there...:eek6: 

check out cervelo they are pretty cool bikes! http://www.cervelo.com/bikes.aspx?bike=S12009


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## B15serv (Apr 27, 2008)

Im 5'6 and ride a 52cm. And like it has been said you dont need a WSD bike so keep options open. Also my advice is not to spend toooooo much on your first because by next season you'll know what type of rider you are and want something new. For my first road bike I bought a steel/carbon lemond because I was scared of aluminum after people saying they were harsh. By the end of the first year I was bummed about the slushy feel of my lemond though I must say that I did appreciate how kind it was with vibration for my first year. I now own an aluminum scott that is plenty stiff and I love riding it up to and over 100 miles at a time. My point is that views change once you have some time under your belt so what you spend now should be spent while keeping in mind that you will probably want different as soon as a year from now. Either way welcome to the sport/psychotic obsession. Have fun, we all do.


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Four things I look for in a bike:

a) triple chain ring in the front - gives more gear choices and hill climbing capabilities
b) nine or ten speeds in the rear - more gears, more choice
c) Carbon fiber forks - reduce road vibration
d) Carbon fiber seat post - again, less road vibration

Do some research as to what you want and make some choices then go out there and try them. Plan on about 4 to 6 hours testing out bikes. Do this testing on a weekday morning (yes, take time off work so the guys can pay attention to you) When you get to the one that you like, you'll know it.

As for prices: 

$800 to $1600 nice road bike
$1600 to $3000 really nice road bike (better, more durable parts usually, more CF)
$3000+ - I think you better turn professional cyclist as a career

We have a woman that rides with us on a Orbea Diva and she *loves* it. And, another that rides a Colnago and loves it too.

Happy bike hunting!


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

One more thing -- cycling is a relatively sport to get started into. Once you are there with all the proper equipment, it gets cheaper: An occasional bike tune up, new chain, tires, tubes, and a new article of clothing or two each year. It can get expensive when you enter the weight-weenie world (i.e., everything must be the lightest possible component and nothing else will do) and if you decide to do some touring (RAGBRAI, Ride The Rockies, and other rides that are out there of a week or so in length). Touring can get expensive especially when you start shipping your bike to the start, plane tickets, and other stuff needed to support your ride (i.e., tent, sleeping bag, hotel)

You must be hooked in some fashion like the rest of this on this web site - you wouldn't be here otherwise. But, if you take the plunge in buying a bike, make certain you are going to continue with it in some fashion. For me. this means signing up for a couple of challenges in a year: a century ride or two, and Ride The Rockies (www.ridetherockies.com) or the Bicycle Tour of Colorado (www.bicycletourcolorado.com), and/or the Copper Triangle (www.coppertriangle.com)


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## MerlinAma (Oct 11, 2005)

ColoradoVeloDude said:


> ..........For me. this means signing up for a couple of challenges in a year: a century ride or two, and Ride The Rockies (www.ridetherockies.com) or the Bicycle Tour of Colorado (www.bicycletourcolorado.com), and/or the Copper Triangle (www.coppertriangle.com)


Add Colorado Rocky Mountain Bicycle Tour http://www.crmbt.com/ to your list of possibilities also. There will be a few hundred riders as opposed to 2,000, which makes it nice when you stay in a town of 500 people.

Also nice when trying to find a camping spot at a high school or similar facility.

After 5 BTC events, I rode CRMBT last year and it was great.


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## 180 (Jan 10, 2009)

First and foremost get a proper fitting. See what bikes are good for your fit. I'm 5' 7" but need a 52cm due to long legs short torso. I went with a performance bike for my re-entry into road biken...had a 10spd when I was a kid that was wayyy too big for me lol Last year I purchased a Trek Madone 4.7. I currently have Ultegra and Dura Ace componants which offer smooth shifting and pedaling. I just enjoy quality stuff and don't like to compromise the idea of sitting on something half a$$ed for a long periods of time. It's really up to you and how often you plan to ride. It may benefit you to wait for a nicer day and actually get out and ride a couple of your friends bikes to see what they feel like on the road - that's if you can find a couple with a similar fit. Good luck with your first buy! Hope it brings you lots of happy riding


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

180 said:


> First and foremost get a proper fitting. See what bikes are good for your fit. I'm 5' 7" but need a 52cm due to long legs short torso. I went with a performance bike for my re-entry into road biken...had a 10spd when I was a kid that was wayyy too big for me lol Last year I purchased a Trek Madone 4.7. I currently have Ultegra and Dura Ace componants which offer smooth shifting and pedaling. I just enjoy quality stuff and don't like to compromise the idea of sitting on something half a$$ed for a long periods of time. It's really up to you and how often you plan to ride. It may benefit you to wait for a nicer day and actually get out and ride a couple of your friends bikes to see what they feel like on the road - that's if you can find a couple with a similar fit. Good luck with your first buy! Hope it brings you lots of happy riding



+1 the bike fit. But, once you test drive bikes, the one that you know you should be riding will be immediately obvious. Once you have chosen the bike, then go get the bike fit -- this includes getting your cleats aligned and also getting a new stem (the part that the handlebars are attached to). The angle and length are important to the overall bike fit too. If you can't find a stem that fits right, they make adjustable ones (where the angle can be adjusted). 

If you are new to clipless pedals, go for some mountain bike shoes with SPD cleats and pedals. These are usually cheaper than "roadie" pedals and the recessed cleat in the MTB shoes will allow you to walk in a fairly normal fashion off the bike. For MTB shoes, get the kind with a ratchet or velcro closures (no laces). After a year or so of riding, you'll know more about your bike and you and how to use the clipless pedals to go for a more serious set of "roadie" pedals and shoes.


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## Welles (Aug 19, 2008)

I think one of the big differences between indoor spinning and road biking is balance. A slacker headtube angle on your bike will make steering less twitchy. Demo a few models with different headtube angles and see if it makes a difference.

When I started riding I flipped my stem and used additional headset spacers so I could have a more upright body position -more like my mtn bike. After I got used to it, (and my lower back got stronger) I took the spacers out and flipped the stem back over.

I'm 5'6 and ride a 50cm, but I've got short legs. I ride a WSD Cannondale, I like the WSD bc of the narrower handlebars and the brake levers are easier to reach if you have short fingers. 

Take your time at the shop and test ride. Enjoy!


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## Loraura (Jun 30, 2008)

ColoradoVeloDude said:


> and a new article of clothing or two each year.


Ahahahahha. Ha. You're definitely a dude!

Shopping for bike clothes, gloves, socks, and accessories has cost me more than my bike in the 9 months I've had it.

I was almost all set, then it turned cold and I needed more new gear for that!

I've just come to the conclusion that the clothes/accessories shopping is never ending.

I will say this: I've learned to stop buying cycling clothes online unless I already have tried on the same make and size. Too many things I've ordered didn't fit well. I have to be able to try stuff on.


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## 180 (Jan 10, 2009)

Amen sister. I cannot even count how many things I've returned this year. I just can't seem to learn when it comes to buying online. Most things don't work out. I did pick up a nice Descente jersey at a bike swap last weekend! Those always have a good deal or two to be found


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## ColoradoVeloDude (Oct 7, 2005)

Welles said:


> I think one of the big differences between indoor spinning and road biking is balance. A slacker headtube angle on your bike will make steering less twitchy. Demo a few models with different headtube angles and see if it makes a difference.
> 
> When I started riding I flipped my stem and used additional headset spacers so I could have a more upright body position -more like my mtn bike. After I got used to it, (and my lower back got stronger) I took the spacers out and flipped the stem back over.
> 
> ...



RE: Spinning

There is nothing that compares to being outside on your bike. There are small nuances that your body picks up and integrates into your overall riding style while riding out on the road. The more your ride outside, the more your mind and body learns about a variety of things and learns to react. Stuff like defects in the road surface, short hills versus long hills, descents, just plain riding on the flat stuff, hot days, cold days, bright days, overcast days. Even learning how to eat and fuel prior to, during, and after riding - what works and what doesn't - for example, Accelerade doesn 't agree with me too well, but Gatorade and Cytomax are just fine. 

But there is a place for spinning. 

I bought a spin bike last year (Keiser brand) to use when the weather outside wasn't agreeable to outside riding, and a couple of "Spinervals" DVDs. What I noticed is that the focus on the intervals really helped my road riding a lot. Some of the hills that I usually ride on all of sudden became "easier." Also, I could sustain more power for longer periods of time. Faster and more even cadenced riding on the flat stuff. If you can integrate a spin cycle session once or twice a week along with outside road rides once or twice a week too, you'll find all kinds of improvement in your riding. Note: if you are just starting out, don't go too overboard on this or you'll burn out and not want to ride your bike.

The next piece of advice is to set a goal for a century or metric century ride this summer. Maybe a MS150 if there is one near your area. That way you'll have something to train towards instead of just more miles.

Keep pedaling!

ColoradoVeloDude
Colorado Springs, Colorado


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

WSD for frames usually means that the top tube is shorter. That's good if you have relatively long legs for your height. If not, then a "regular" "mens" frame might fit you better. I sometimes ride with the woman who directs a big pro women's team. We were discussing bike fit a while back when she was selecting the bike sponsor for this year. Some of her riders fit on WSD bikes but some don't. 

WSD often also means the bike comes with narrower handlebars (for narrower shoulders) and the bars have less reach and drop so they fit smaller people with smaller hands. Sometimes the brake levers are special ones with shorter reach for smaller hands. A good shop should be willing to put those kind of WSD components on a non-WSD frame for you, if that's what fits you.


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