# Begginner Must Haves?



## damacl6 (Aug 15, 2011)

My budget number has been up in the air. After much discussion, my bank, who is also my wife, agreed to hand me $1200 in two weeks. What are the road bike beginner must haves, other than the bike? I need to know how much of the 1200 I will actually be able to spend on a bike. I don't plan on going clipless right away. I would like to spend some time getting comfortable first. I have a helmet I have been using with the crappy mtb I have been riding on the road. Other than that I have a bunch of running gear. What things can't I do without and what can I put off for a while?
I thought I had my choices narrowed down, however with the cost increase of the '12 models, The accessories I need to get will effect which bike I get. I am hoping that in 2 weeks when I have the money in hand there will still be some '11 bikes in my size and price range available. It is not looking good though.


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## Doolab (Feb 13, 2008)

cycling shorts or better still, bibs.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I'm surprised there's not a packing list or something on the forum.

I never go anywhere without a multi-tool, spare tubes, pump and extra chain link. I highly recommend gloves.

And, +1 to good shorts. Finally getting bib shorts was a bit of a revelation, and I'm a big fan.


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## ChrisMartin (Sep 13, 2011)

I've got some cycling shorts, which having been used to rising with no padding at all for a few months, I'm quite enjoying! Are bib shorts significantly better?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

damacl6 said:


> ...with the cost increase of the '12 models, The accessories I need to get will effect which bike I get.


My advice is to make the bike first priority. Almost everything else can be purchased piecemeal, except that.

You have a helmet and aren't going clipless yet, so you'll save there. On the 'must have' list, I'd go with a saddle bag, multi-tool, spare tubes, patch kit, tire levers, CO2 and/ or mini-pump and padded shorts (Performance has moderately priced offerings). 

On the 'really nice to have list': floor pump with gauge (almost made the 'must have' list), cycling jersey, gloves, bike computer with cadence (wired run about $30).


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## silkroad (Jul 8, 2011)

I highly recommend Pearl Izumi shorts and jerseys. You can't go wrong with Performance bikes products too. YMMV


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## ezrida (Aug 20, 2011)

TIME, TIME, TIME

water bottle cages (2) ~ $30-50
water bottles (2) ~ $20
seatbag ~ $10-30
pedals ~ $20-300 if gets clip in then will need shoes
multitool kit ~ 20-50
tire levers 5
pump ~ 20-60 --- co2 optional
tubes (2) $3-7
gloves ~10-50
helmet --------------------> $20-300
$5 bill
cycling bib/jersey---------------------> $50 - 300 (get the knock offs, feels almost the same  Bibs are great, once you go bibs you'll never go back
extra chain link
get rid of the reflectors on the wheels
a good lbs to take your bike to for questions/help --------------> free-$$$$$$
an ID

optional:
an understanding wife/gf/sig. other
cycle computer
patch kit - if you don't have spare tubes
good lights if planning on riding at night.
good pair of glasses
nicely shaven legs

bike workstand

out on the road riding ----------------->PRICELESS


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## the_don (Mar 23, 2008)

PJ352 said:


> My advice is to make the bike first priority. Almost everything else can be purchased piecemeal, except that.
> 
> You have a helmet and aren't going clipless yet, so you'll save there. On the 'must have' list, I'd go with a saddle bag, multi-tool, spare tubes, patch kit, tire levers, CO2 and/ or mini-pump and padded shorts (Performance has moderately priced offerings).
> 
> On the 'really nice to have list': floor pump with gauge (almost made the 'must have' list), cycling jersey, gloves, bike computer with cadence (wired run about $30).


That's weird, you say we must have a saddle bag spares and tools. I've been riding for 5 years and have never carried any of these. When I first started riding, I bought sports clothing, but not Lycra with padding. Eventually (because I went from flat bar road bike I.E. Ridgeback Genesis Day 02) to fixed gear (specialized Langster Chicago). I got clips and straps and learnt about pedal stroke. I eventually changed to a full steel frame bike and got 105 spdsl pedals and shimano road shoes and a specialized toupee, then when I started riding over 50km a day I went and bought some eBay Chinese Lycra kit. That was an amazing transformation for my riding! Now I have a road bike with full dura-ace. I still ride those same Lycra after 2.5 years of riding and they are still in execellent condition. I did have to sow up a hole recently, but that's ok. 

I think the advice should be just get what you think will be fun! My hybrid was fast and handled great, then all my FG bikes were so much fun, I always buy used, and after 6-12 months thinking about selling as I think about what I like and don't like about the bike I had. But I have always held onto the Lycra, helmet saddle and shoes though. 

Recently I got a Polar HRM computer with cadence. Again, transforming my ride experience. Learning about HR zones and being able to see how much I am pushing myself really helps. 

I have learnt that the weight weenie thing is BS, yes a lighter bike is nice, but beyond a point you get deminishing returns. And that point is at the 105 level for recreation riding. 

Aero also is the same, it doesnt make you faster, and if you are riding for fun and exercise, why worry about shaving seconds off your regular run?!? But if running a cool set of wheels makes you more happy and gives you motivation to ride, then do it, just don't BS yourself, because then you'll end up paying $100 for a bottle holder that is 10g lighter than the plastic model!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

the_don said:


> *That's weird, you say we must have a saddle bag spares and tools*. I've been riding for 5 years and have never carried any of these.


The saddle bag is to hold the essentials needed to repair flats and make minor bike adjustments if/ when needed, so a jersey pocket will suffice (but not very well, IMHO).

Beyond that, flats being a given (at least IME) and most riders not having the luxury of 'on the spot' assistance, I see my 'must have' list literally. Apparently, YMV's.


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## ezrida (Aug 20, 2011)

+1 for the knock off bibs/jersey kit from china. They are good quality at a fraction of the cost, and noone is gonna care if you're wearing knockoffs, and if they do, who cares!!!. I have both fake and real ones and i can't tell the difference on 2-3 hour rides.


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## volrus (Sep 13, 2011)

Coming from someone who literally just bought a new bike and am new to road biking, here is what I've found that I MUST have to enjoy. Keep in mind I am going on short rides only right now where I'm never more than about 10 miles from home and I can call someone to come get me if I have a flat/mechanical issue.

Bike - I got a new Felt Z85 with 105 components for $1000
Seat bag for phone - $10
Floor pump - $40
Helmet - $50
Computer - $50 for a Cateye Strada wireless (no cadence because I wouldn't know what to do with it anyway)
Pedals - bike shop threw in free cage pedals
Bottle Cage - bike show threw in free
Bottle - $10
Cheap bike shorts - $30 for pair of Navaro from REI that I liked MUCH more than the Pearl Izumi's I tried on.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

volrus said:


> Computer - $50 for a Cateye Strada wireless (*no cadence because I wouldn't know what to do with it anyway*)


In all seriousness, learn. Whether you use a computer to monitor cadence or just guestimate, smoothing the pedal stroke and keeping an adequate (~90-100) cadence (varyiing with conditions and terrain) will help you build endurance along with raising efficiency/ performance.

Long term, because pedal resistance is lower, it'll also help to save the knees from undue stress.


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## bmach (Apr 13, 2011)

Buy the bike and a bag for your spare tube, pump, tire levers, and water bottle cage and bottle. That should leave you $1150 for the bike. The rest you can get as you go along. Nothing else that was mentioned are must have right now items that you can't ride without. As you ride more you will learn just what you want and need.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The only time I don't carry tools and at least one spare tube is a cyclocross race, when there's a pit area with neutral wheel support and I'm only a few minutes' walk away from my car at the most. I wouldn't even do a fully-supported Century with a sag wagon without this stuff - I'm confident I can fix my bike faster than the car can get to me, and almost none of my rides are supported. I don't want to be miles away from home without the means to get my bike working again. I have a smaller care package that I can fit in a jersey pocket for MTB races - after seeing most of my race pass me by when I got a flat, I decided that I'd rather carry an extra 300g or so and be able to finish.

I don't get flats or break chains often. But enough that I'd rather not have them be a major problem.

I've always been content with the $6 bottle cage, and I haven't paid for a water bottle since 2005 or so. They're an incredibly popular promotional item, and most of them are the Specialized water bottles that are actually quite good.


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## bdok (Jun 21, 2011)

I would at least think about going clipless right away. It really is not very hard to learn and does have benefits. Depending on pedals and shoes, that can add up pretty quickly. Just can't imagine riding without clipless and I've only been doing it two months.


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## teflondog (Aug 23, 2011)

I just started riding for only 2 months now. Spare tires, lights for riding at night, and a good helmet were the first things I bought. Then and a computer with cadence. Soon I'll be switching to clipless pedals. I use a camelbak so I don't have a need for bottle cages.


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## volrus (Sep 13, 2011)

teflondog said:


> I just started riding for only 2 months now. Spare tires, lights for riding at night, and a good helmet were the first things I bought. Then and a computer with cadence. Soon I'll be switching to clipless pedals. I use a camelbak so I don't have a need for bottle cages.


Why don't more people use camelbak's on road bikes? Is it becuase of the extra weight and the riding position?


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## K&K_Dad (Dec 10, 2008)

ChrisMartin said:


> I've got some cycling shorts, which having been used to rising with no padding at all for a few months, I'm quite enjoying! Are bib shorts significantly better?


yes.

if you want bibs check out Love2Pedal.



volrus said:


> Why don't more people use camelbak's on road bikes? Is it becuase of the extra weight and the riding position?


When it's hot I know I like to have airflow. even the smallest camelbak will cover that up. The chaffing and straps just add to it. Not to mention, a backpack pretty much renders my ability to use a rear pocket mid ride useless.


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## ezrida (Aug 20, 2011)

^^^^^ camelbaks add an extra layer of "clothing" to my back, and cause increase in temp, and decreased comfort.


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## teflondog (Aug 23, 2011)

volrus said:


> Why don't more people use camelbak's on road bikes? Is it becuase of the extra weight and the riding position?


There are a few disadvantages. It makes my back sweat more if I'm riding in the hot sun. Also the straps sometimes causes chaffing when I'm wearing a tank top. And a lot of other people on road bikes shake their head at me. But I still choose to wear a camelbak because the pros outweigh the cons for me.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

the_don said:


> That's weird, you say we must have a saddle bag spares and tools.


I've lost count of how many tubes I've replaced instead of walking. I've used tools to kludge around broken shift cables so I had an acceptable gear to get home, re-installed an improperly torqued front derailleur so I wouldn't be stuck on my small ring for the rest of the ride, riveted a chain so I didn't need to walk, and straighted bent rims enough to get home with a spoke wrench.

While a cellular phone will avoid the need for road side repairs it's nicer to just finish your ride.

In theory you could put all those things in your jersey pocket, but you'll be more comfortable and have a harder time forgetting them when they're on the bike.


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## JasperL (Aug 21, 2011)

The one thing I hadn't thought about when buying a "real" bike a few weeks ago was a better bike rack. The one I had was terrible, but so were the old bikes, and I didn't care that when I loaded two, they rubbed together pretty good. With new road bikes for both me and my wife, we had $3,000 (most of that hers) rubbing together marring perfect clearcoat finishes...not good. The new rack that I wanted required a hitch, so add another $150.

A couple more expenses were a decent bike lock ($30) for trips to the store, when before I did without since the old one wasn't worth stealing. Lube for the chain was another unexpected (minor) expense ($10).


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## Kodi Crescent (Aug 3, 2011)

With a budget of $1200 and a scrutinizing wife, here's what I suggest:

Find a high-quality used bike on Craigslist for $800 or less. That seems to be the range right now for full carbon 105 bikes that are a few years old. (I just sold one for about for that).

Spend $30 on a Team Performance membership. Then wait until you get some coupons or sales emails. Buy a helmet, pedals, shoes, tools, shorts, and a pump. 

If you are patient and diligent about sales, you should be able to do all this for right around $300. At this point you'll have accumulated enough Performance points to have covered your membership. You will earn 10% of each purchase in Performance points that you can use for other stuff as needed. Every little bit helps.

Another poster mentioned the cadence function on the computer. I used to have a lot of trouble with foot pain until I monitored my cadence. I noticed that by keeping my cadence in the 80 - 90 rpm range, my foot pain subsided.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

volrus said:


> Why don't more people use camelbak's on road bikes? Is it becuase of the extra weight and the riding position?


I have an ultralight one that's not so bad. But a full-sized camelbak or a backpack worn tight enough not to fly around always feels like it's trying to make me fellate my steer tube.

At least buy me coffee first!


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## Smokeydave (Sep 14, 2011)

I'm right there with ya. I just ordered a Bikes direct bike for 900 bucks and then dropped some coin at amazon for a computer with cadence, lights, bike shorts and cream. Then i bought a new helmet at a shop and still need a pump and spare tube and a saddle bag for the repair kit. All of this with zero miles logged and just waiting for ups to deliver stuff. At this point I hope i like cycling..... I am invested. But I too have been doing the 10ish mile rides on the road on an old junky mountain bike and wanting a road bike. I've been to every shop in town but still feel a little weird about taking in an internet bike and buying a fitting and tune up. I have found the shop I want to use and there are many routes to ride here. I just wish I had started earlier in the season.


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## jaysc (Apr 23, 2010)

Bike rack.

Bib shorts. 

Two biggest for me at least.


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## rgg01 (Jun 21, 2011)

It is very hot where I live and I sweat a lot so I use a Camelbak simply as it lets me carry more liquid with me, I leave my tire levers, pump, spare tube and mulit-tool in the bag along with wallet and phone dropped in each ride. It may be hotter but works for me.
I would vote for clipless and good shoes as they really made a difference to the way I ride.


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## sc87 (Sep 14, 2011)

I'm still fairly new at biking, but I'll give you what I know. Take my advice with a grain of salt.  I would go for necessities such as tire pumps, 2 spare tubes, tire levers, CO2, 2 water bottle cages, 2 water bottles (unless you already have a camelbak from running), and a seatbag to fit all the tubes, CO2 and tire levers in. 

I haven't gotten clipless yets, but I've just ordered pedals and in the process of shopping for shoes. I can't wait to get them so I can work on my cadence and speed. I would consider getting clipless in the near future and not wait as long as I have.


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## Digger51 (May 12, 2006)

You must have the following:
Helmet
Shorts/bibs
Pump
Water Bottle and cage
Flat repair kit

Really nice to have:
Saddle bag
extra tube
glasses
gloves
shoes and clips
Cycling socks
Jersey

Luxury:
Ipod/Mp3 player
Computer
Repair stand
Tool kit
Nice water bottle cage


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## superjesus (Jul 26, 2010)

volrus said:


> Coming from someone who literally just bought a new bike and am new to road biking, here is what I've found that I MUST have to enjoy. Keep in mind I am going on short rides only right now where I'm never more than about 10 miles from home and I can call someone to come get me if I have a flat/mechanical issue.
> 
> Bike - I got a new Felt Z85 with 105 components for $1000
> Seat bag for phone - $10
> ...


This here is excellent advice. 

But really, you only need a bike to start riding. I rode an entire season on a hand-me-down Diamondback with a bottle cage and a minipump. Granted, I spent most of my time on bike paths and MUTs, but I got it done on the cheap. 

I would prioritize the clothing/ accessories as follows:

* Pump - you can't ride far without air in your tires. Don't rely on a CO2 inflator as your only pump. A mini pump or a frame pump is all you need to keep you going. A floor pump is a wonderful upgrade when you can afford it.
* Bottle cages and bottles - see if you can get the shop to throw these in for free with the bike purchase. They really aren't too expensive, $25, give or take, for two of each.
* Cycling shorts and padded gloves - Pearl Izumi, Bellwether, and Mt Borah are common inexpensive brands. The shorts are tights and should fit accordingly. 
* Pedals/ toe clips - In street shoes, I prefer toe clips to keep my foot in a consistent position. 
* Seat bag - eventually you will want to carry a snack, cell phone, your housekeys, or a spare tube. A seat bag costs $20. A decent jersey costs upwards of $50. You do the math.
* Computer - this is a luxury item. You can do a lot of training with a just a digital watch. Bonus points if it has a stopwatch feature. 

If you decide to participate in group rides, then being self-sufficient becomes a priority. I wouldn't participate without a multi-tool, tire levers, seat bag or jersey, spare tube(s), etc.


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## shinedown (Dec 12, 2010)

A few thoughts to this thread: 

1. A good pair of shorts (bibs are better but more expensive...usually). Along with this a good saddle. I never thought this made much difference until I listened to people riding much long than me. 

2. Go craigslist or Fleabay and buy used. Let someone else take the hit till you find what you really want. 

3. Camelbaks...Those are ??? (joking I use those on my MTB) 

4. Get some sort of portable tools (multi tool, tube, inflators or at least a pump). Nobody likes being that person always asking (Check this forum there are some very GREAT diy ideas for saddlebags if you dont want to carry said items a jersey)

5. Go clipless. You may fall over a few times you will learn.


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## rgg01 (Jun 21, 2011)

I also have found a cheap bike stand which works great, it's not a work stand, just a thing that the shop normally uses for display, but it lets me stand the bike in the garage without resting on a wall, I can wash it easy now as well and simple maintenance is easy now that the rear tire is a couple of inches of the ground, $17 well spent.


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## JChasse (Sep 16, 2005)

Clipless pedals and arm warmers (if you live somewhere with cooler temps). Knee and/or leg warmers would close behind on my list. You'll be amazed at how versitile your shorts and short-sleeve jerseys are when you add warmers to the mix. Where I live, I can't imagine living without them.


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## damacl6 (Aug 15, 2011)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I am going to have to look for some kind of stand. Some way to hang it on the wall would be even better.


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## heybrady (Jul 3, 2011)

I can't remember if I posted in this thread or not, but I got a wall mounted bike hanger from Lowes for about 10 bucks that works great. It screws into a stud and has a Y shaped hanger that folds down to set the top tube on. It doesn't hold the bike as steady as a dedicated bike stand but I have been able to do all simple maintenance without issue.


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## damacl6 (Aug 15, 2011)

I would just want something to use to store it on the wall, no work. I will check Lowes out. With 5 kids and all their crap, the only place I would really be comfortable storing such a pricy purchase as a bike is up on the wall out of the way.


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## volrus (Sep 13, 2011)

damacl6 said:


> I would just want something to use to store it on the wall, no work. I will check Lowes out. With 5 kids and all their crap, the only place I would really be comfortable storing such a pricy purchase as a bike is up on the wall out of the way.


You could get a bike hoist. It uses a pully system to lift the bike into the air so you can keep it up high and out of the way. This is great if you're like me and all your power tools and yard maintenance tools take up your garage wall space.


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## Noobos (Sep 19, 2011)

I always see people wearing jerseys and those special padded pants. Are those a must-have (along with a helmet, clips and shoes of course)?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I don't bother with cycling shorts when I commute. It takes me about a half hour to get home.

I do bother with cycling shorts if I'm out for longer. I'd say it depends on the extent of your initial rides, and rank them higher than clipless pedals and shoes.


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## notquitethere (Aug 26, 2011)

+1 on bib over shorts

Also more is not always better with padding. I love the fit of my bib, but am much more comfortable in the "seat" with the thinner padding in my tri shorts.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

PJ352 said:


> In all seriousness, learn. Whether you use a computer to monitor cadence or just guestimate, smoothing the pedal stroke and keeping an adequate (~90-100) cadence (varyiing with conditions and terrain) will help you build endurance along with raising efficiency/ performance.
> 
> Long term, because pedal resistance is lower, it'll also help to save the knees from undue stress.


+1.......While this isn't a necessary item, cadence is something every cyclist should learn. Whether you ride long or short distances. You will be a more efficient and comfortable rider plus the added bonus of saving your knees. Saving up for a computer with cadence and learn how to use it will give you a greater desire to ride more in my experience. Also, if you're using cycling to lose weight or just stay in shape, focusing on cadence will help you achieve both a lot easier. If you've ever done a spin class, you'll understand how important cadence is.


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## sadoering (Aug 7, 2011)

I'm a relative beginner at more serious riding - did a few centuries this summer for the first time. My biggest "aha" moment was getting good/better cycling shorts compared to what I had before - what a difference! Especially when attempting over 100 miles. I also have found a good mini-tool useful - I've been using the Topeak Mini-9 which has the basics.


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## snamik1 (May 31, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> My advice is to make the bike first priority. Almost everything else can be purchased piecemeal, except that.


I'd second this. You need two things to ride, a bike and a helmet (which you already have). Try every bike in your area that is $1200 or less and buy the one that feels best and that you like most. If it costs $1200 so be it. Ride it and enjoy, and save up for more toys.

If you have anything left over, think about what is important to you. For example if you want to ride at night, lights are essential. The one accessory I actually found indispensible when I started about 1.5 years ago was a floor pump (with gauge). I've found I have to pump up my tires at least every couple of days, and I usually just do it every ride. All the other toys mentioned in other posts are great to have to improve comfort (padded shorts) or add some convenience (bag of repair tools) or fun/interest (computer), but they aren't essential to start. You can add them as you go, and as you recognize problems/needs/wants (e.g. sore butt = padded shorts + chamois cream; 3 flats in first 2 months = saddle bag w/tubes levers, CO2, etc.).

Don't get me wrong, there are very real benefits to the items people suggest above. I love my Sugoi RS shorts - I find they make a real comfort difference over a 60-70 mile ride - but your current running shorts should work fine for shorter rides. And there is often truth to "ya get what ya pay for" - my $100 Bell array helmet is so much cooler (temp. wise) than my $20 Bell commuter helmet that I was astonished. So rather than buying a lot of really cheap stuff to start, it might be worth while to wait and save for some things to get better quality. You can also subscribe to some of the major online suppliers and get sale flyers - discounts of 30-80% aren't uncommon on last years models of many things. 

Just my 2 cents. Good luck and enjoy the bike buying (and riding) experience

Steve


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## Natedogz (Aug 25, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> My advice is to make the bike first priority. Almost everything else can be purchased piecemeal, except that.
> 
> You have a helmet and aren't going clipless yet, so you'll save there. On the 'must have' list, I'd go with a saddle bag, multi-tool, spare tubes, patch kit, tire levers, CO2 and/ or mini-pump and padded shorts (Performance has moderately priced offerings).
> 
> On the 'really nice to have list': floor pump with gauge (almost made the 'must have' list), cycling jersey, gloves, bike computer with cadence (wired run about $30).


Yes, I use dry patches for patching during the ride, not the seperate glue and patch type. I prefer a good mini pump, it weighs less than CO2 cartidges and is much cheaper in the long run. I say budget for all this stuff at once, except floor pump and bike/cadence computer can purchase later. I found the Pearl Izumi shorts fit nice but one of the seams crossed the chamois butt area and I could feel it when sitting on my bike...not good. Using Sugoi atm, I don't recall the exact model, they were $125 msrp a couple years ago. Wow, their site has changed and I don't see that short anymore.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Chamois cream. Not for everybody, maybe, and you should get a good saddle and good shorts first. But if you already have those things, there are some things that limit a person's mileage and have nothing to do with fitness...

From a little research, I found out that the active ingredient in at least some is zinc oxide. Also present in diaper rash ointment, which is available at my local grocery store with a cute picture of a sleeping firefly on the cover and a much lower unit price.


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## butlerrider (Feb 9, 2009)

*Don't get too hung up on shorts/bibs....*

You have to find what works for you. I've worn out $30 shorts with no hot spots. I've also had $100 shorts that rub me in the same spot every time I ride more than 10 miles. I do like the one set of Pearl Izumi bibs I have, but be prepared to to pay extra $$$ for a full zip jersey when you ride more than a couple hours and want to answer nature's call comfortably (you'll know what I mean when you get bibs). Rep?


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## vontress (Jul 19, 2009)

Can't imagine how anyone rides a road bike more than 20 miles without a good pair of shorts. When I started, I bought cheap Chinese shorts and have worked my way up to good expensive shorts. I'd start with a middle of the road pair at least. These tools and extras to repair your bike are a must too. Then buy all the bike you can. You'll find more money as you get hooked. We all started by explaining Its a one time purchase. My wife laughs at that now.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I think my girlfriend understands that I'll put my bikes on a 5-year upgrade cycle when I can afford it. Hopefully that doesn't change if I marry her.


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## snamik1 (May 31, 2010)

vontress said:


> We all started by explaining Its a one time purchase. My wife laughs at that now.


Amen. My wife's response to my beautiful new bike was "you spent $1500 on a bike with *NO PEDALS*?!!" (She was OK with me getting it, just shocked that peddles weren't included.

Add together pedals, shoes, shorts, jerseys, gloves, winter clothes, helmet, computer, pumps, CO2, tools, tubes, lights, stand, new saddle, spiffy cf bottle racks for fun, etc., etc. I've probably spent close to the cost of the bike in accessories. But hell, I've lost 40lbs. in 1.5 yrs, I'm in the best shape i've been in since my twenties, and I've had a ton of fun. A bit more expensive than a gym maybe, but worth it to me.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

notquitethere said:


> +1 on bib over shorts
> 
> Also more is not always better with padding. I love the fit of my bib, but am much more comfortable in the "seat" with the thinner padding in my tri shorts.


+2 on bibs over shorts....

After wearing shorts for 21 years, I decided to try bibs 3 years ago and having looked back. The fit is incredible!!


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## Digger51 (May 12, 2006)

bmach said:


> Buy the bike and a bag for your spare tube, pump, tire levers, and water bottle cage and bottle. That should leave you $1150 for the bike. The rest you can get as you go along. Nothing else that was mentioned are must have right now items that you can't ride without. As you ride more you will learn just what you want and need.


A helmet is a must have as it is required by law in most if not all states.


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## Squeaky950 (Sep 21, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> My advice is to make the bike first priority. Almost everything else can be purchased piecemeal, except that.
> 
> You have a helmet and aren't going clipless yet, so you'll save there. On the 'must have' list, I'd go with a saddle bag, multi-tool, spare tubes, patch kit, tire levers, CO2 and/ or mini-pump and padded shorts (Performance has moderately priced offerings).


+1 to all of the above and on top of that I'd suggest a jersey with pockets as essential (it can act as a substitute for a saddle bag if you don't want one, and it lets you keep stuff like a mobile or energy bar in easy reach). If your LBS won't throw in bottle cages with the bike, get as many as the bike has bosses for - they don't need to be flashy.


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## Silvercall (Sep 21, 2011)

Wow, great advice in this thread. I'm picking up my wife and I's first road bikes tomorrow and will keep all this info in mind. Thank you!


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## Jerry-rigged (Jul 24, 2009)

volrus said:


> Why don't more people use camelbak's on road bikes? Is it becuase of the extra weight and the riding position?


I do use a Camelback, my thoughts -

I got my first, because I often ran out of water using 2-24oz bottles, on rides short enough I didn't want to make a stop (25-35 miles). Texas heat, I go thru a lot of water. Some of it is dumped/sprayed on my head/body to help cool down.

On hot days, an hour into my ride, the water in my camel back is cool, my bottles are warm. Yes, my camel-bak is Black.

Get a smaller one - 50oz is fine, 70 oz is getting big, 100 will be overkill. Mine is a 70oz size, and really, the only time I empty it is on LONG rides, or rides that I use it a lot for "cooling water" sprayed into my helmet vents...

DON'T get the "back-pack" style - get the "classic" - it has one or two small pockets for "stuff" (extra bars, cel-phone) and a bungi-cord strap to secure any jackets/leggings you may need to shed once the day heats up.

If the straps are chaifing, it is not adjusted correctly.

The newer Camel-baks use a short-stubby blatter, so now I can use my center pocket again. :thumbsup:

Last - I only use plain water in my camel-bak. Bug-juice is too hard to clean up good enough to stay mold-free. Bug Juice goes in my water-bottles.


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2011)

Digger51 said:


> A helmet is a must have as it is required by law in most if not all states.


For motorcycles, yes. No US state requires adult bicyclists to wear helmets. Many states have no restrictions for anyone on bicycle helmets, though most require helmets for children only (cutoff age varies by state) 

That said, I always wear helmets on any sort of ride where I'll be exceeding 20mph, or on the bike for longer than 20minutes (which includes long-distance commutes). Only time I'll not wear one is a quick trip around the block say from my workplace to get lunch, or quick errands etc. in low speed/low traffic areas.


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## Parker512 (Jul 25, 2011)

PhotonFreak said:


> For motorcycles, yes. No US state requires adult bicyclists to wear helmets. Many states have no restrictions for anyone on bicycle helmets, though most require helmets for children only (cutoff age varies by state)
> 
> That said, I always wear helmets on any sort of ride where I'll be exceeding 20mph, or on the bike for longer than 20minutes (which includes long-distance commutes). Only time I'll not wear one is a quick trip around the block say from my workplace to get lunch, or quick errands etc. in low speed/low traffic areas.


In the state of Connecticut i know they do.


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## new2rd (Aug 8, 2010)

My wife was afraid to ask how much I spent on my bike.. I was sure to show her all the real expensive bikes on the internet ($5K+) so she would think I got a good deal when I spent $2k. 
Comfortable shoes, pedals, new saddle, shorts/bibs, and insulated water bottles were my best investments.


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## vladvm (May 4, 2010)

$2k is a lot of money to spend on a beginner bike. hope you got a carbon with Ultegra components and Ksyrium wheelset... otherwise you paid too much.


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## lamboy1 (Sep 26, 2011)

first post and can't believe how much i have learned in one day


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## Kodi Crescent (Aug 3, 2011)

Velox rim strips. About $10. Often overlooked, but great at preventing rim-related flats.


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## stephen9666 (Apr 7, 2010)

As others have mentioned, lights. But I think they're necessary for everyone, even if you aren't planning on riding at night. Even at dusk they can make you much more visible.

For a headlight I have an LED flashlight.

I like the Planet Biker Superflash for a taillight. It works well and is pretty cheap. I think I paid $25.


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