# Lay back...Set back seatpost



## rydbyk (Feb 17, 2010)

I ride a Cervelo RS. I love the ride overall, but am still going through the set up process. The bike comes with an FSA set back post of 20mm. 

I personally feel that it puts ME too far back...even with the saddle moved far forward.

QUESTION: Would I be going against the design of the bike to replace the post with an inline to bring me farther forward?

Should I shorten the stem possibly INSTEAD from the 110mm down to 100mm?


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

I would make sure that the saddle is properly positioned first. 

1. Saddle height: At the bottom of your pedal stroke, you should have a slight bend at the knee. Some say: inseam length x .883. If that works for you, then great. Mine is a tad more than that, though.

2. Saddle Fore/Aft: At the 3:00 position (cranks parallel with the ground), if you drop a plumb line from the bottom of your forward kneecap, it should be right over the pedal spindle. That is your starting position. If you need to move the saddle forward or aft 1/2cm or so for comfort, then that's fine.

THEN, you take a look at stem length. Once the saddle is correct, then while riding, hand on the drops, if you look down at your front hub, the handlebar should obscure it. If you can see the hub out in front of the bar, then you need a longer stem. Behind the hub, get a shorter stem.

Stem length is the last part of the "fit equation".

~Frank


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## Sonomasnap (Feb 10, 2010)

I like this!


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## rydbyk (Feb 17, 2010)

I have been riding mtb and road for a long time... I have never had a pro fit. I am considering it. As I get older, fit seems to affect my comfort level more so than when I was in my 20s.

I just hate to spend over $100...but it may be worth it.

Anyone know of a good place in San Diego to have a pro fit done?


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Spend $100 for a pro fit??? Are you nuts? 

PLENTY of info on the web. Do it yourself. I've done my own fit, since before there was an internet, and actually had to read about it from real live BOOKS (gasp!). I can hop on a bike and know if my saddle is too high/low within 1cm.

I've used Eddie B's method since the mid '80s. He's only been the coach of some lesser known cyclists like LeMond, Armstrong, US Cycling team, Motorola, etc.

Plus, when you do it yourself, you find out more about how our body interacts with the machine. Education is a good thing.

Do you have an indoor trainer? This helps out immensely.

You can always ask me too. I've fit not only myself, but lots of others.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Plus, I'll only charge you $20


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## rydbyk (Feb 17, 2010)

frpax said:


> Spend $100 for a pro fit??? Are you nuts?
> 
> PLENTY of info on the web. Do it yourself. I've done my own fit, since before there was an internet, and actually had to read about it from real live BOOKS (gasp!). I can hop on a bike and know if my saddle is too high/low within 1cm.
> 
> ...




I appreciate where you are coming from. I tend to want to do everything on my own too. I build all of my bikes for example.

I have read a number of times though, that there are a ton of cyclists, many very experienced that claim to have fit themselves properly....but in reality are WAY off. I don't want to be one of those people.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

rydbyk said:


> I appreciate where you are coming from. I tend to want to do everything on my own too. I build all of my bikes for example.
> 
> I have read a number of times though, that there are a ton of cyclists, many very experienced that claim to have fit themselves properly....but in reality are WAY off. I don't want to be one of those people.


That's usually because they listen to half baked ideas, and "hey, this works for me, so it must work for everybody" methods.

If you do some research, you'll find that while there are a few differences, most all the main things are the same, regardless of who's method you look at.

Go to www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit
Theirs is almost a carbon copy of Eddie B's. It's also laid out really easy and is easy to understand. Before you go dropping a hunsky, do this. Then ride it that way for a few weeks. Like any change, you gotta get used to it. If you're still not happy, then go get a fit.
But keep in mind that wherever you go, the fit is only as good as the guy doing it. And HE might be one of those half baked guys.... hehehe


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

A professional fit is a good idea... and be prepared to spend more than $100 in some cases. Your comfort on the bike is priceless.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

I totally agree. I had my first "pro" fit about 5 years ago and it was money well spent. In the first 10 minutes, the fitter found that my right leg is shorter than the left, so he put shims under my right cleat. I had been experiencing some pain in the left hip and it was from compensating for the shorter leg. Haven't had hip pains since then. He also helped with seat height, saddle setback, etc. I've tweaked them a bit, but I use all those same fit dimensions on all my bikes today. Amortize the original fee over all the future bikes you apply the fit to and its pretty cheap.


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## Undecided (Apr 2, 2007)

Andrea138 said:


> A professional fit is a good idea... and be prepared to spend more than $100 in some cases. Your comfort on the bike is priceless.


Agreed. If somebody is willing to spend a lot of money on a bike and then wants to spend a lot of time on that bike, I'm surprised when they balk at the cost of a good fitting session. But maybe it's one of those things you don't appreciate until you've had it.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Yep- it's like buying a nice suit and not having it tailored to fit you perfectly.


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## bill (Feb 5, 2004)

it all depends on what about the fit is making you feel as if you are too far forward.
maybe your saddle is tilted forward. maybe your saddle is too high. maybe your bars are too low, or the reach on them is too long or the drop too deep. maybe the reach is too short. maybe the hoods are too low. maybe the bars are rotated incorrectly. maybe your stem is too long. or too short. and, maybe the saddle is too forward.
all of these things can make you feel too far forward. if you don't know how or why, then you likely would learn something from a good fitting.
note that I said a good fitting. most fitters are not that good, and pretty much none of them are as good as they think they are. I know a talented triathlete who paid a boatload of money to one of the reputed best, and she was almost crippled by the experience for months. that may sound unnecessarily curmudgeonly, but it's true. I'm sorry to say it, but the minute someone gets out the plumb bob to position your knee over the pedal spindle or asks whether you can see the hub, you know, run. these metrics can be sort of useful because they are true enough for average bodies in a sort of kind of way that can get you within a margin for error that will vary from individual to individual, but in themselves they are meaningless. absolutely meaningless. a good fit is about balance.

the other truth is that your body can get used to an awful lot, and your body and your body mechanics will change and adapt over time. that's why these myths can become so persistent. because someone goes to a fitter and justifies everyone's existence by adapting to the new position. not to say that they all are absolutely useless, but too many of them are too useless.


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## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

cdhbrad said:


> I totally agree. I had my first "pro" fit about 5 years ago and it was money well spent. In the first 10 minutes, the fitter found that my right leg is shorter than the left, so he put shims under my right cleat. I had been experiencing some pain in the left hip and it was from compensating for the shorter leg. Haven't had hip pains since then. He also helped with seat height, saddle setback, etc. I've tweaked them a bit, but I use all those same fit dimensions on all my bikes today. Amortize the original fee over all the future bikes you apply the fit to and its pretty cheap.


Truth is, almost everybody has different length legs. Usually it's a centimeter or less, and is virtually unnoticeable. Shoe shims are very seldom needed.

What's the difference in your legs, if you don't mind me asking?


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