# 2014 SLR01 Saddle Clamp Parts



## Sumguy1 (Apr 5, 2008)

Can someone tell me what the bolt / washer set is on a 2014 SLR01 saddle clamp? 

My current set consists of a short rear bolt with a fairly thick washer and a long front bolt with no washer at all. When I set my saddle the rear bolt seems fine but the front bolt sticks out of the top clamp by a large amount - an amount that might be taken by the addition of a thick washer. So I am wondering if I am missing a thick washer on the front long bolt. 

Thanks


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## Sumguy1 (Apr 5, 2008)

No one willing to take off their saddle to have a look see? Understandable. 

I'll try another question then: After torquing to 3nm does your seat post show collar/clamp marks - very shallow, guessing < 0.20mm, but clear indents to the post? 

Thanks


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

You should take your bike to your local BMC dealer and have them show you how to do that. If you mess up your seatpost you're in big trouble. It's not just a standard round seatpost.

I work at a BMC dealer. Your front bolt needs to be set and not torqued. Your back bolt does all the torquing. This means it's a trial and error process. 

-Loosen back bolt all the way.
-Tighten front bolt until it's sitting properly, do not torque at all.
-Tighten rear bolt to proper torque spec.
-Check seat level.
-If it's not level, undo the back bolt quite a bit and adjust front bolt.
-Tighten rear bolt again to proper torque spec and check seat level.
-Repeat until your seat is level only after proper torque of the rear bolt.
-Once it's perfect, double check the torque on both bolts and ride.


If you are inexperienced this can take up to a half hour to do properly. If you're experienced with it it can be done in just a couple minutes.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

I have an 2012 and both front and rear bolts have thick washers. There are no impressions in the seatpost torquing the clamp to ~5-6 Nm. 7 Nm Max is engraved in the clamp. 

FWIW: the front bolt sticking up is not uncommon. This is due to the fact that a fair number of saddles have rails that slope upward from the rear to the front. To accommodate this, the front bolt needs to be long enough, which can make it seem too long if the saddle you have has rails that don't slope upward.


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## Sumguy1 (Apr 5, 2008)

Thanks MMsRepBike for that good info.


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## Sumguy1 (Apr 5, 2008)

looigi said:


> I have an 2012 and both front and rear bolts have thick washers. There are no impressions in the seatpost torquing the clamp to ~5-6 Nm. 7 Nm Max is engraved in the clamp.
> 
> FWIW: the front bolt sticking up is not uncommon. This is due to the fact that a fair number of saddles have rails that slope upward from the rear to the front. To accommodate this, the front bolt needs to be long enough, which can make it seem too long if the saddle you have has rails that don't slope upward.


I find it strange that the post has these slight - and I do mean slight - indents. But this post is unlike anything else I've seen, it's shape etc. and that 3nm max must mean it really is unlike any other post out there. 

I see what you're saying with regard to saddle rails. Thanks. But this being a 2014 and not a 2012 still makes me wonder if it's missing a front washer. But as MMsRepBike has written, if the front bolt is not torqued it may be fine without.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Sumguy1 said:


> I find it strange that the post has these slight - and I do mean slight - indents. But this post is unlike anything else I've seen, it's shape etc. and that 3nm max must mean it really is unlike any other post out there.
> 
> I see what you're saying with regard to saddle rails. Thanks. But this being a 2014 and not a 2012 still makes me wonder if it's missing a front washer. But as MMsRepBike has written, if the front bolt is not torqued it may be fine without.


There's several two bolt posts like this, but many work the front bolt in different ways. Some, like some Pinarello posts list the front bolt at 4N·m and the back at 8N·m. Others just have a dial wheel on the front bolt instead of a bolt head or allen head. Some tighten from the bottom, some from the top, but a fair amount of two bolt designs are like this. Very light torque spec on the front bolt and a heavier one on the back bolt. Back bolt usually being around 7 or 8N·m.

If you follow the method I laid out you will find that after torquing the back bolt, the front bolt will be at it's spec. In your case if you set your torque wrench to 3N·m and check it after the back one is at 7N·m it should instantly click. It's a frustrating process to get it just right, and for that reason I prefer the single bolt systems for setting the seat up. I think the two bolt systems hold better though so it's a trade off either way.


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## Sumguy1 (Apr 5, 2008)

MMsRepBike said:


> There's several two bolt posts like this, but many work the front bolt in different ways. Some, like some Pinarello posts list the front bolt at 4N·m and the back at 8N·m. Others just have a dial wheel on the front bolt instead of a bolt head or allen head. Some tighten from the bottom, some from the top, but a fair amount of two bolt designs are like this. Very light torque spec on the front bolt and a heavier one on the back bolt. Back bolt usually being around 7 or 8N·m.
> 
> If you follow the method I laid out you will find that after torquing the back bolt, the front bolt will be at it's spec. In your case if you set your torque wrench to 3N·m and check it after the back one is at 7N·m it should instantly click. It's a frustrating process to get it just right, and for that reason I prefer the single bolt systems for setting the seat up. I think the two bolt systems hold better though so it's a trade off either way.


Just to be clear, the 3nm torque is the torque for the seat post collar not the saddle clamp. The saddle clamp bolt is marked as 8nm. My second question was referring to marks on the seat post from the seat post collar/clamp. Two separate things. I'll edit my post.
Thanks again.


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## L_Johnny (Jul 15, 2006)

Somewhat on topic here: will the slr01 seat clamp take 9mm carbon rails without any issues? I.e. No need to change clamp or screw length?
Thanks!


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

L_Johnny said:


> Somewhat on topic here: will the slr01 seat clamp take 9mm carbon rails without any issues? I.e. No need to change clamp or screw length?
> Thanks!


I have two with two different saddles with 9mm carbon rails and have no issues. It's worth checking that edges of the clamping parts that contact the rails don't have any sharp edges or burrs.


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## L_Johnny (Jul 15, 2006)

Thanks looigi! Yeah, regarding the edges, I need to check. I remember someone mentioning that there were indeed some ridges that needed filing for carbon rail use.


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## Walt (Santa Rosa) (Jul 8, 2021)

L_Johnny said:


> Thanks looigi! Yeah, regarding the edges, I need to check. I remember someone mentioning that there were indeed some ridges that needed filing for carbon rail use.


My bolt broke in 1/2. Anyone know where to buy a replacement bolt?


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