# Quick Release Rear Skewer



## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

I was reading Sheldon Brown's site & saw that he said a quick release skewer on a fixed gear bike was OK as long as it is a strong one. I always thought this was a no-no, but, hey, it's Sheldon Brown... he was like Mr. Fixed gear & stuff. 
Does anyone out there use a quick release skewer on their rear wheel? If so, what type? I just got a Crosscheck that I am building up fixed/SS (pics soon!), and I'd like to use a quick release if it's not going to cause death/serious injury.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

I have done it, mtn ss not fg tho... not sure I would do it fg, but others have (search)... iiwm, I would do it like on the mtn bike, i.e., old skool-style tandem (long) skewer w/ a tugnutt or spot rocket or other 'chain tug' on the drive side +/- another on the non-drive, depending on your comfort level... 

one question you gotta ask is, if it slips and you scrape the paint off the inside of a chainstay or crash and fall, will you be upset that your new cc has battle scars? it yes, maybe it's not a good idea...


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Boy, you like to stir things up huh? next, you'll be asking about brakeless fixie riding...

My opinion of a QR for the rear...Single speed, yes...fixed, no....... you could probably get away with it on a fixed but a chain falling off a fixed geared bike is NO fun at all.


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## Dad Man Walking (Sep 19, 2002)

QR's never worked well for me...a better solution is to replace the clamp-on skewer with a bolt-on skewer. I got some cheap ones at Nashbar that work fine, and I've seen what appear to be higher quality ones since. They generate higher clamping pressure than I could with a QR.

I did use a QR for years...the first one was a generic low-end QR and didn't work well at all; the rear wheel would slide forward unexpectedly when I was honking up a hill. I replaced it with a 1980's Campy SR QR and that worked better, but still not set-and-forget...higher clamping forces and serrated faces that gripped the chrome dropouts better. But I still had to reposition the wheel after every ride...it crept forward a bit while riding enough to put a bit more slack in the chain than I started with. The bolt-on skewers fixed that.

When I overhaul the rear hub (which might not be for a very long time, it's a Phil ) I will think about replacing the hollow axle with a solid one.


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

If you are building a new wheelset for the bike just go for the Surly solid axle/bolt rear hub for the piece of mind. A skewer seems like one of those things you would have to check after every ride, especially for a cross bike.

I'm waiting for a few more packages before my CC is finished... it's killing me.


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

QR is the way we always did it back in the day. But. The old school Campy QR's have a lot higher clamping force than the new stuff, b/c they were built for horiz. dropouts and modern QRs are built for vertical. And. You really have to clamp that sucker down... not to be a chauvinist but strong man hands are in order here.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

Creakyknees said:


> not to be a chauvinist but strong man hands are in order here.




what?! this isn't noe or tafi?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

All my fixie wheels have qr's. Never had a hint of a problem. I use Campy or similar (internal-cam) units, as SB recommended. 

As long as we're opening worm-cans here, all of my fixie rear wheels are old freewheel hubs (no reverse lockring), so some people here think I should have been dead long ago, but again, never a hint of a problem.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Creakyknees said:


> ... not to be a chauvinist but strong man hands are in order here.


I just happen to have a set of those attached to my arms  

For some reason, people are always asking me to open jars...


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## The Green Hour (Jul 15, 2008)

Andrea138 said:


> I was reading Sheldon Brown's site & saw that he said a quick release skewer on a fixed gear bike was OK as long as it is a strong one. I always thought this was a no-no, but, hey, it's Sheldon Brown... he was like Mr. Fixed gear & stuff.
> Does anyone out there use a quick release skewer on their rear wheel? If so, what type? I just got a Crosscheck that I am building up fixed/SS (pics soon!), and I'd like to use a quick release if it's not going to cause death/serious injury.


I find it just as easy to do a couple of turns on the bolts with a wrench not to be bothered with the quick release. If your not riding the track you would more than likely be ok with the skewer, but the bolts aren't that bad to deal with....and they have a whole lot more holding force to them.


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## 89dk (Jul 31, 2008)

The issue I've found is that because new bikes have vertical drop-outs the new QR has become light and therefore has minimal holding power. It doesn't need to have the power because it isn't under any force it's just keeping the wheel from falling out. However, an old-skool steel QR was designed to keep the wheel from moving forward under force and therefore can be clamped down very tightly and will hold. I've been running steel QRs on my horiz. drop-outs for years without any problem---you just need to use the correct QR.

dk


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## VaughnA (Jun 3, 2003)

If you check out Sheldon's site he recommends with good reason the traditional internal cam type QR's. Your basic shimano QR skewer will get the job done for singlespeeding, mine never slipped in a couple of years of riding before I got true nutted axles. But like the wise man with the formerly shaved legs said, I wouldn't use a QR for fixed. 

After you go with the nutted axles come back here for the 'best wrench' discussion.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

I was still skeptical, so I got the shop to order one of the pocket-size wrench/bottle opener tools that Surly makes so I'd have an almost as easy way of taking my wheel off in the event of a flat. They'll be finishing the build up today... it feels really odd to have someone else put a bike together for me, but kinda nice at the same time. I will put some official photos up tonight!


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Andrea138 said:


> I was still skeptical, so I got the shop to order one of the pocket-size wrench/bottle opener tools that Surly makes so I'd have an almost as easy way of taking my wheel off in the event of a flat. They'll be finishing the build up today... it feels really odd to have someone else put a bike together for me, but kinda nice at the same time. I will put some official photos up tonight!


Those Surly JethroTule tools are great. Plus they have a nasty looking bottle cap remover hook that has all sorts of parallel uses. Makes a great back scratcher. Use as an encroaching vehicle marker is up to your personal discretion.









https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/jethro-tule.jpg


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

treebound said:


> Those Surly JethroTule tools are great. Plus they have a nasty looking bottle cap remover hook that has all sorts of parallel uses. Makes a great back scratcher. Use as an encroaching vehicle marker is up to your personal discretion.


Call me old fashioned....I really wish Park would re-introduce this..my trusted CCW15. Otherwise known as a peanut butter wrench..

I had three but lost one...:cryin:


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Dave Hickey said:


> Call me old fashioned....I really wish Park would re-introduce this..my trusted CCW15. Otherwise known as a peanut butter wrench..
> 
> I had three but lost one...:cryin:


That and the Campy one. Never had either but always keep my eyes open.
Harris still lists the Campy wrench
http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?id=2144


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## VaughnA (Jun 3, 2003)

I like my stubby ratchet wrench. The ratchet makes it much easier with covered dropouts.


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## El Guapo (Dec 10, 2002)

*Surly Jethro Tool...*

I have one of these and absolutely LOVE it! It's very compact, but with the flattened end and canted (sp?) head, you can get a tremendous amount of torque with either your palm or with your heel. Fits better in a saddle bag than a peanut butter wrench. Oh yeah, it also includes a bottle opener!


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Dave Hickey said:


> Call me old fashioned....I really wish Park would re-introduce this..my trusted CCW15. Otherwise known as a peanut butter wrench..
> 
> I had three but lost one...:cryin:


Dave, you and me both. I have the Campy 769 "peanut butter wrench" (because I am a tool nut too - funny how I remember the number!) but my "on the road tool" is an old Park crank wrench with the 14, 15 and 16mm recessed sockets and the stubby 5mm allen key for the dust cap (has a blade too for the cheaper caps). That is my take along tool, because I am not cool enough yet to ride without dust caps 










zac


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

Why is it called a "peanut butter" wrench?


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Andrea138 said:


> I was reading Sheldon Brown's site & saw that he said a quick release skewer on a fixed gear bike was OK as long as it is a strong one. I always thought this was a no-no, but, hey, it's Sheldon Brown... he was like Mr. Fixed gear & stuff.
> Does anyone out there use a quick release skewer on their rear wheel? If so, what type? I just got a Crosscheck that I am building up fixed/SS (pics soon!), and I'd like to use a quick release if it's not going to cause death/serious injury.


I have a handful of slightly bent Campy NR/SR skewers. While there may be stronger, I doubt there are many skewers that are much stronger (and that is from a geared road bike). I personally wouldn't ride fixed for an extended time with hollow axles and skewers. Solid axles and track nuts and real tight. Plus, in the winter, it is easier to deal with track nuts than with freezing fingers trying to undo a super tight quick release.

I don't think death or serious injury are the issue as much as constant checking/readjusting (which tends to eat the dropout/track-end) and living with the probability that you will bend skewers. 

zac


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

Andrea138 said:


> Why is it called a "peanut butter" wrench?


Because unconfirmed and undocumented rumors of the past state that bike mechanics used to use these wrenches to spread peanut butter onto their sandwiches for lunch. This is why it is always wise to look at both sides of the handles of one of these wrenches before using one to tighten/loosen a nut.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

Dave Hickey said:


> Call me old fashioned....I really wish Park would re-introduce this..my trusted CCW15. Otherwise known as a peanut butter wrench..
> 
> I had three but lost one...:cryin:




got a couple of those, a couple campy (prices have gone up about $5-6 in the past few yrs), stubbies including ratcheting... least favorite is the ratcheting because there is no switch and if you got it on wrong or want to un-do what you just did you gotta turn it around. the other interesting looking one is the felt, which fits bottle braze-ons (but is really just a socket attached to a lever)


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Andrea138 said:


> Why is it called a "peanut butter" wrench?


Well, you asked: 










Of course you would normally use the reverse, smooth side, it's easier to clean


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

Just be be on the safe side, if you're using a QR, use a chain tug also.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

That looks delicious!


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I have 2 Fixed Gear Bikes.
One I use Solid Axle and Axle Nuts, and the other I use Q-Release.
Following Sheldon Brown's advice, I use the very strong Shimano Dura-Ace Quick Release and have never experienced a problem. Don't know the #, but it is the older steel axle type. Not light, but very strong and reliable.
As for the Bolt On, I use Campy Axle Nuts and the Campy 'Peanutbutter' Wrench.
I also use a Sears Craftsman 6-Point Socket or Crescent, which works just as well as the Campy Wrench except for making PB&J Sandwiches.


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## Just me (Dec 6, 2007)

Where can I get a bolt on axle to replace the QR? I've searched online but can't seem to find any. If I have the LBS do it, what should it cost me? I'm a fairly handy wrench but have never encountered this. I am having the slipping problem on my SS CX bike with horizontal drops. Thanks.


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I have had excellent results using Control Tech Race Road Skewers. Not the lightweight Race-SL model, but the middle range one. Uses a 5mm Allen Wrench. Got them from Universal Cycles online for $45.
Performance also sells HubLox anti-theft skewers that uses a lock/key provided, but I don't like these as well as Control Tech.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

If it's a Shimano rear axle, it's probably a 10mm rear...Your LBS should be able to order one..

Just make sure you buy one long enough..Figure on 20mm for each track nut+ 5mm for each dropout + the rear spacing of your frame... a 120mm spaced rear frame would need approx a 170mm rear axle

If you've adjusted cup and cone hubs, you can replace the axle...it's a very simple job


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Just me said:


> Where can I get a bolt on axle to replace the QR? I've searched online but can't seem to find any. If I have the LBS do it, what should it cost me? I'm a fairly handy wrench but have never encountered this. I am having the slipping problem on my SS CX bike with horizontal drops. Thanks.


Almost anywhere. Nashbar has their brand as well for $10










ControlTech, Delta, Speedcific, etc.


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

DIRT BOY said:


> Almost anywhere. Nashbar has their brand as well for $10
> 
> 
> 
> ...




can you crank those tight enough to prevent slipping? thought those were merely to discourage theft... think he wants to replace the axle not just the skewer


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

FatTireFred said:


> can you crank those tight enough to prevent slipping? thought those were merely to discourage theft... think he wants to replace the axle not just the skewer



agreed...I think this is what he was talking about


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## ckilner (Oct 4, 2004)

I've found use of QRs on fixed bikes to depend on the whole package... a good Campy skewer on crappy stamped dropouts might work for a smooth pedaler, but result in chewed up dropouts with a masher... a good skewer on forged dropouts works for 95% of riders/bikes.

I used QRs on fixed gears off and on for 15 years - here is my experience:
I've never had a problem with steel Campy internal cam QRs on a forged/chromed dropout.
I pulled a wheel out and bent the Campy QR rod when used on a cheap Motobecane Nomad (stamped 1020 steel - stamped dropout got torn up) when the same wheel worked fine on a Trek with cast/forged dropouts.
I successfully used a Shimano alloy QR on a Maranoni with chromed Campy dropouts.
I bent the axel on a Joytech hub used with a bike-boom Raleigh with stamped dropouts - probably due to cheaper QR and slippage on the softer dropouts.
I have not had any problems with nutted solid axels on bikes with cheap stamped dropouts.

If you mash gears or skid stop, I'd recommend that you *don't* use QRs - it is too easy to bend hollow axel parts or chew up dropouts on cheaper bikes...


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## treebound (Oct 16, 2003)

roadfix said:


> Just be be on the safe side, if you're using a QR, use a chain tug also.


But using a chaintug sort of negates the reason for using a quick release skewer.

For the record, I have nuts and a chaintug on my Fillmore. If I get a flat on the rear I'm not going anywhere anytime soon.


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