# Eddy Merckx MXL Replacement? Rossin Strada Professional



## Maverick (Apr 29, 2004)

still contemplating if i should replace my good ol' Merckx MXL with the Rossin Strada.

frame is NOS with some minor paint chips.
toptube at 51cm. 
(my Merckx MXL is 53.8cm which is a tad too big for me)

considering an ultra modern+retro built?
DI2 or Campy R11..(most likely a Campy)

here are the pics.






























cheers!


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

a good fit is always a good idea... a small slx will be a solid ride, esp w/ those wheels. not a fan of colliding worlds


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## mtnroadie (Jul 6, 2010)

If the Merckx is too big i would go with the Rossin. But i would rather have a Merckx than a Rossin.

I have to be honest i am not crazy about tat 80s splatter paint job, but i can see it growing on me if it was my frame, or i would just invest a bit more and powder coat it.

I did a neo retro rebuild on a vintage Bianchi here is the thread it might help with some of the issues you might encounter...

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/re...-modern-retro-rebuild-miele-build-259405.html

A word about Campy 11, i have Athena 11 and Record 11. Honestly i cant tell the difference and i am having way more issues with the Record, and would probably tip my hat to Athena but i got the 2010 ultrashift which campy has discontinued. Their UT BB design has been nothing but a head ache and ear ache on the R11. I am not having issues with the Bianchi in that area. So the Rossin with its Italian BB might also not have any issues.

I am currently in contact with Campy about their warranty... have yet to hear back from them...

Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing it complete.


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

If you go Campy and want to avoid the UT BB, look into getting the last Chorus or Record crank before they went to the UT system. I picked up a NOS Record crank in alloy for $100 on eBay and think it probably the best looking crank Campy ever made. And I have had no problems with square taper BBs. It would certainly look more appropriate on a bike like the Rossin (you could use the rest of the Athena 11-speed group). 

I like the Rossin frame but agree that that '80s style paint scheme looks a bit dated (although I probably wouldn't get a respray - it looks like a good job).


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## Trower (Apr 28, 2009)

Man I think with that rim/tire tire combo the frame looks awesome! Better fit is better no matter what, IMO, and that Rossin is a very nice bike indeed:thumbsup:


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## orbeamike (Nov 20, 2004)

A Max tubing in a frame that size is a bit over kill. I think a SLX is a better choice, especially if it fits better. I 2nd the powder coating comment, not a big deal if you like the current paint scheme. But if you are having 2nd thoughts then it's easier to do it up front.


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## Maverick (Apr 29, 2004)

thanks for the comments guys..
will definitely keep the paint as it is..that's the reason why i bought the frameset/fork at the first place 
it's a tad old school but it's definitely unique. 

btw, i'm quite surprised on the UT BB issues. i don't have any problems on all my three bikes (SR11, R11) - Merckx MXL, Colnago C50, TIME VXRS. 

@mtnroadie, jmoryl,
what is the exact problem you guys are facing? 
lateral play? 

cheers!


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

I don't have any problem with UT BBs, just that I find the previous generation of alloy cranks to look more period correct on a frame like that. Functionally, UT was an answer looking for a problem anyway.


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## mtnroadie (Jul 6, 2010)

My Athena works great, I honestly prefer it to my Record as far as smoothness of operation goes, but it has been broken in a bit more.

The non drive side of my Athena crank has about 1.5mm of space between the BB cup and the arms. It was always like that and works well, also the distance between the stays and the crank arm when parallel is ok. Which is weird because if I did manage to move the crank arm closer to the BB cup it would bring the crank closer to the stays. It could be the way the bearing is seated on the crank axel.

The Record BB crank is where my major issue is, it ticks and creaks, what appears to be a common issue with UT BB and cranks. I have overhauled it 3 times now with various degrees of success.
Lately I called up Campy they had me over haul it again with that ridiculously expensive Loctite 222. The problem got worse... I am waiting to hear from them...

They tried to give me the typical BS run around, check my cables, all bolts etc. The fact remains the bike never made ticks or creaks with the Shimano group.

Kind of ridiculous to buy one of the best group sets only to have it work worse than a Shimano 105 crank.


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## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

mtnroadie said:


> My Athena works great, I honestly prefer it to my Record as far as smoothness of operation goes, but it has been broken in a bit more.
> 
> The non drive side of my Athena crank has about 1.5mm of space between the BB cup and the arms. It was always like that and works well, also the distance between the stays and the crank arm when parallel is ok. Which is weird because if I did manage to move the crank arm closer to the BB cup it would bring the crank closer to the stays. It could be the way the bearing is seated on the crank axel.
> 
> ...


Been riding UT on 5 bikes since it came out and never had a problem.


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## Papimax (Aug 18, 2011)

I've used the UT BB with Record, Chorus and Centaur cranks and no issues until now. Touch wood. One tip is to put loctite on the inner fixing bolt.


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## mtnroadie (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks ill give it a try...

Campy said not to put anything on it. But their advice so far has only made things worse so far. Plus some Loctite 222 on the fixing bolt would be harmless I think.


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

mtnroadie:

Also make sure your BB shell faces are properly faced and parallel. This is very important with this sort of BB.


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## cdt168 (Dec 11, 2011)

Hi Cats,

I'm looking at a Rossin Strada Pro with the same paint as the one pictured here. Have 2 questions on same:

1. I see in the comments that everybody dates it as '80's. Anyone have a more precise idea of actual year of the pictured bike? I was tempted to say 1990 or even early 90's. No?

2. The one I'm looking at has a (nearly) complete Campagnolo Veloce group on it. Paint however is not as nice as the one pictured: has a couple of small rust spots. In light of this, I'd appreciate any feedback on what you think is a fair price to pay? 

Thanks!


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## brewster (Jun 15, 2004)

The bottom bracket lug itself is reason to acquire one. Nothing else quite like it was made. Here's mine.


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## cdt168 (Dec 11, 2011)

That is sexy brewster! I hadn't looked closely at the bb lug - but you've got going on that now too.
What year is yours? Can you comment on the ride (from the perspective of the frame)?
Cheers


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## brewster (Jun 15, 2004)

Mine is a 1990 Prestige.Tange Prestige tubing. Stout and predictable would be how I'd describe it. It feels very planted and dampens the road quite a bit. No road buzz. For instance, standing on climbs, there is just about no flex in in the bottom bracket Not that I can feel anyway. It has a very strong, solid feel. I have a more lightly built Tommasini as well, and it has more spring and lively feel when riding the same kind of hill while standing. I wouldn't say either is better, just a different focus to the ride feel.

brewster


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## cdt168 (Dec 11, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback on the ride! I've most recently been riding a late 70's Coppi, a Raleigh Carlton, and an 80's Columbus Guerciotti. I was looking at this Rossin to give me something different in the way of a ride, just as you note.
Auction ends later today on the one I was looking at. It's already at $550 and I expect it to go over $600. Although it has a Veloce group that looks to be in nice condition, with the spot of rust on it plus the other wear I can see on the frame, I'm hesitant to pursue this particular one.
Will keep my eyes open for others - looks like an interesting bike that would be fun.
Cheers, C


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*first let me say*

there is no replacing a Merckx MXL

second: in sizes that small, unless you are a beast an MXL is overkill

if your MXL doesn't fit that slx strada (if it fits) will do just fine


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

atpjunkie said:


> there is no replacing a Merckx MXL
> 
> second: in sizes that small, unless you are a beast an MXL is overkill
> 
> if your MXL doesn't fit that slx strada (if it fits) will do just fine


I found a replacement and I'm not talking about Emma or the ArgoMax. I picked up a US Team GT from the Vsalon classifieds. It was built by Mark Nobilette around 93-94 and it's fillet brazed True Temper with a newer Nobilette threadless steel fork. Frame and fork are 7 pounds of solid goodness. If I had four, I could put a lift kit on a truck. It's the classic red, white, and blue team paint job but it does need new paint. I'm taking the parts off Emma and packing her up for the move this summer and using those parts to build up the GT and use it for my "car bike" this summer while I'm living on the ship. Paint is all chipped up anyway.


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## ElPrez (Feb 21, 2012)

mtnroadie said:


> I have to be honest i am not crazy about tat 80s splatter paint job, but i can see it growing on me if it was my frame, or i would just invest a bit more and powder coat it.
> <
> <
> 
> ...


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## ElPrez (Feb 21, 2012)

Maverick said:


> still contemplating if i should replace my good ol' Merckx MXL with the Rossin Strada.
> 
> frame is NOS with some minor paint chips.
> toptube at 51cm.
> ...


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## ElPrez (Feb 21, 2012)

Maverick said:


> still contemplating if i should replace my good ol' Merckx MXL with the Rossin Strada.
> 
> frame is NOS with some minor paint chips.
> toptube at 51cm.
> ...


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## mtnroadie (Jul 6, 2010)

ElPrez said:


> mtnroadie said:
> 
> 
> > I have to be honest i am not crazy about tat 80s splatter paint job, but i can see it growing on me if it was my frame, or i would just invest a bit more and powder coat it.
> ...


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## High Gear (Mar 9, 2002)

Yes, I would save the lower priced powder coating for a MTB or a frameset that has little detail. A good classic lugged frame deserves good ol' fashon paint. Check out what this guy can do with paint....at a price.

Keith Anderson Cycles



mtnroadie said:


> ElPrez said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah i know, i have to revise my comment. Since then i aquired a few more classic frames and did a lot of research into the whole powder coat vs paint issue and i agree for vintage panto frame only paint and if it needs it badly.
> ...


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## Maverick (Apr 29, 2004)

ElPrez said:


> Maverick, can I use a couple of your pictures for my Rossin site [ROSSINPROJECT]? I'm quite excited about your bike!


sure, please feel free to use the pictures


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## Quattro_Assi_07 (Jan 13, 2006)

High Gear said:


> Yes, I would save the lower priced powder coating for a MTB or a frameset that has little detail. A good classic lugged frame deserves good ol' fashon paint. Check out what this guy can do with paint....at a price.
> 
> Don't be so quick to write off powder coating for quality and detailed work on lugged frames. Check out Spectrum Powder Works in Colorado Springs ...
> 
> ...


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