# Considering a CAAD10



## BobDobalina (Aug 20, 2012)

Hey all, relatively new to this sport. I picked up an old, used GT Strike toward the end of last season with a mixture of Shimano components and proceeded to ride the wheels off of it. I then invested in a set of Krietler rollers and have proceeded to continue riding the wheels off of it during the winter months (I live in NY). Well, it's starting to get warm and I'm starting to think about investing in something a bit more serious...

Have read a lot about the CAAD10 and everyone seems to love it. The roads I ride are very hilly and mostly good good quality, but there are some rough patches that I usually stand out of the saddle on. I've heard the CAAD10 isn't the most forgiving bike in that regard, but I'm sure it'll be light-years beyond my current (aluminum) ride. 

Anyhow, having never bought a new bike (and wincing as I look at the MSRP on these) I was looking for a little advice.

1 - Is there another bike I should consider in this price range? As much as I love carbon fiber (I'm an F1 nerd) the 10 seems to be more than enough bike for me.

2 - Which spec should I aim for? I'd been thinking the 10-3, with the Ultegra components, but I confess I'm utterly fascinated by the Di2 Black model. (In addition to being an F1 nerd, I'm a gadget nerd.) As a relative newbie who's still reeling at the idea of spending four figures on a bike, should I even consider this? I like the idea of a bike that won't require as much maintenance for the shifters, if I'm honest, because I don't live particularly close to the shop where I'll be buying the thing.

3 - Any other advice for buying my first new bike? Should I barter on price, or just services? 

Thanks in advance!


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## midlife_xs's (Jun 18, 2004)

Visit all the Cannondale dealers near you and look for last year's models aka 2012 bikes. Most dealers are closing these out to make room for the 2013s. There is little to sometimes no difference from a 2012 to 2013 except paint scheme. You can save a pretty penny and you may even get a Supersix for a CAAD 10 budget. 

Since you are getting serious, buy the most bike you can afford as this will keep you from upgrading bits by bits which could get expensive.


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## gus68 (Oct 19, 2010)

The 10 is much nicer than previous alum models. If its is too rough 25c tires will cure it. However, if you are going to spend 4K on the Di version, downgrade components and get an Evo. The 10 is the best value in the line up, IMHO. The only difference between the 105 and the ultegra is weight.


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## BobDobalina (Aug 20, 2012)

Thanks, will do a little more digging. I'd thought the step up from 105 to Ultegra was a noticeable improvement in quality and that the further step up to Dura Ace was just one of weight. I'm far from a weight weenie (I have about 10lbs I need to shed from myself before I worry about saving a few grams on my bike) but I don't mind spending more for components that will wear or perform better.


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## davist (Oct 25, 2012)

I was in a similar situation, I ended up with a leftover '12 105 version in November, negotiated some 25mm tires on it and saved the $$ from the tempting ultegra upgrade to use on good shoes and a better helmet. I figured I need to work on the engine before the bike. ~800miles later I'm sure this was the best decision for me. Hope this helps.


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## BobDobalina (Aug 20, 2012)

Thanks, spoke to all the local bike shops in the area and sadly none have any 2012 models left. So, I'm getting new regardless, and am trying to decide if the other components (carbon seatpost, better wheels & cranks, etc.) make up for the difference -- which I think is about $600. For that I could buy a better set of wheels but not much else. I thankfully already have shoes and helmet and etc.

Glad to hear you're liking your bike! I'm eager to get mine -- and for the snow to finish melting


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## calrider61 (Jul 1, 2012)

BobDobalina said:


> Thanks, spoke to all the local bike shops in the area and sadly none have any 2012 models left. So, I'm getting new regardless, and am trying to decide if the other components (carbon seatpost, better wheels & cranks, etc.) make up for the difference -- which I think is about $600. For that I could buy a better set of wheels but not much else. I thankfully already have shoes and helmet and etc.
> 
> Glad to hear you're liking your bike! I'm eager to get mine -- and for the snow to finish melting


Start with a pro bike fitting for $. The CAAD10 is an excellent platform for further upgrades once you start with the correct size frame. Each new component will customize the bike specifically for your body.


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## BobDobalina (Aug 20, 2012)

Oh that's part of the deal. I figured out frame size at my LBS over the weekend. Still waiting on final pricing on the various CAAD10 models, then they'll do the formal fitting when it arrives.


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## calrider61 (Jul 1, 2012)

BobDobalina said:


> Oh that's part of the deal. I figured out frame size at my LBS over the weekend. Still waiting on final pricing on the various CAAD10 models, then they'll do the formal fitting when it arrives.


Check out the VeloNews review of seatposts. I changed from a Thomson zero setback/SLR kit carbon to a Ritchey carbon 25sb/Fizik carbon braded Antares. My CAAD10 is now very compatable in ride comfort in comparison to my steel bikes or Optimo Team Saeco with Campy carbon seatpost and Fizik Aliante .


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## hbueain (Mar 27, 2013)

Caad 10 is a great bike. 

Get your LBS to eat the tax.


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## BobDobalina (Aug 20, 2012)

Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. Decided to splurge and get the Ultegra. Excited!


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## midlife_xs's (Jun 18, 2004)

Wise decision. Bought the upgraded bike and not spend bits by bits to upgrade later as it will cost more.


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