# KMC DX10SC chain



## dgangi (Sep 24, 2003)

After burning through 3 Dura Ace chains in 5000 miles, I decided to try a KMC chain instead. I got the DX10SC, which is claimed to work with both Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo drivetrains.

My current setup is 10 spd Shimano Dura Ace 12/25 cassette, Dura Ace f/r derailleurs, and FSA Team Issue 39/53 double crankset.

I was a bit worried about shifting performance with the KMC chain as numerous people have posted on this board that the KMC's don't shift as well as the Dura Ace chains.

Well, after 200 miles of riding, I am very satisfied with this chain. It is noticeably quieter than the Dura Ace chain on all gears except the big/big combo (which isn't recommended anyway) and shifting performance is identical. And at $25, it's a bargain.

Claimed weight is <250g, which if true, would be 30g lighter than the Dura Ace it replaced. Anybody know if KMC weights are accurate?

Thx...Doug


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## Notgoodbutslow (Jan 10, 2005)

Thanks, Doug. That's good news.
Keep us updated on your experience with this chain.


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## Argentius (Aug 26, 2004)

What did you do to wreck D/A chains so quickly? How did you determine that they were worn out?

I have never run Shimano, but both Campy and SRAM chains have lasted me about 3,000 miles. I measure with one of those drop-in elongation guides.


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## dgangi (Sep 24, 2003)

Argentius said:


> What did you do to wreck D/A chains so quickly? How did you determine that they were worn out?
> 
> I have never run Shimano, but both Campy and SRAM chains have lasted me about 3,000 miles. I measure with one of those drop-in elongation guides.


I have no idea why the Dura Ace chains wore out so fast. The bike is newer ('05) and none of the drivetrain shows any wear (cassette, derailleur, chain rings). And I'm only 155lbs...but I am very strong and ride much harder than my size would normally dictate. Lastly, I lube the crap out of the chain, typically every ride -- first 2 chains were with ProLink and the last chain was with Boeshield T9.

I use one of those Park chain checkers to determine wear. This time when I pulled the chain off the bike I measured it against the new chain, and I'll bet the old chain was 1/2 link longer than the new one.

Hopefully the KMC wears better.

Years ago I ran Shimano chains on my mountain bikes, but due to premature wear and/or breakage I switched to SRAM. I've been using SRAM on the MTB ever since. But SRAM 10-speed chains are relatively new so I was a bit worried about performance and durability. Good to hear your experience with SRAM is good.

Thx...Doug


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

dgangi said:


> Claimed weight is <250g, which if true, would be 30g lighter than the Dura Ace it replaced. Anybody know if KMC weights are accurate?
> 
> Thx...Doug


Yes. KMC also makes Shimano chains. These are the BEST chains I have used so far, then SRAM.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

dgangi said:


> I have no idea why the Dura Ace chains wore out so fast. The bike is newer ('05) and none of the drivetrain shows any wear (cassette, derailleur, chain rings). And I'm only 155lbs...but I am very strong and ride much harder than my size would normally dictate. Lastly, I lube the crap out of the chain, typically every ride -- first 2 chains were with ProLink and the last chain was with Boeshield T9.
> 
> I use one of those Park chain checkers to determine wear. This time when I pulled the chain off the bike I measured it against the new chain, and I'll bet the old chain was 1/2 link longer than the new one.
> 
> ...


The problem with the Park chain checker is that it measures from roller to roller. The true measurement is 12 links pin to pin. I run the KMC X10SL and the rollers are some what loose on these chains and stock out the box with the chain checker they appear to he half to 3/4 worn although with a machinist ruler its perfect. You could be tossing chains that are not worn out.

BTW I get about 6,000 on a Campy drive train with the KMC X10SL chain.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

I give a thumbs up for the KMC. I'm using it on a Campy 10 drivetrain. Quiet as a tomb and excellent shifting.


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## Armchair Spaceman (Jun 21, 2003)

*gets my vote*



Richard said:


> I give a thumbs up for the KMC. I'm using it on a Campy 10 drivetrain. Quiet as a tomb and excellent shifting.


I'm a big fan of these KMC 10sp chains - run quiet and smooth and superb shifting on a range of cassettes.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*premature...*

If you take such poor care of a chain that it wear out in 1700 miles, what makes you think that the KMC will fair any better?

Most complaints about short chain life are usually due to poor maintenance and improper wear measurement. Park chain checkers do not provide reliable information.


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## dgangi (Sep 24, 2003)

C-40 said:


> If you take such poor care of a chain that it wear out in 1700 miles, what makes you think that the KMC will fair any better?
> 
> Most complaints about short chain life are usually due to poor maintenance and improper wear measurement. Park chain checkers do not provide reliable information.


What kind of pompous a$$ accusation is this? Your immediate assumption (worded most impolitely) that I am the cause of the premature chain wear is way out of line.

Re-read all of my posts - I take care of my chains very well. They are and have always been lubed before every ride with ProLink or T9...drop by drop on each link...so my chain never goes more than 100 miles without getting re-wet. If anything I am over-lubing the chain.

I'm not the only person I know that has life expectancy issues with DA chains, especially here in dry Phoenix. I have no idea why these damn DA chains keep self-destructing so fast, but they do. I even changed out the cassette after the first chain wore out and it made no difference (swapped 12/23 to 12/25).

And as far as measurement is concerned, yes I do use the Park chain tool, and I believe it was you that mentioned that they can be inaccurate. So I took the old chain off and compared it against my new chain just to be 100% certain the chain was worn. As I said in the OP, the DA chain was about 1/2 link longer than the new chain, which is well beyond acceptable tolerance for wear.

Thx...Doug


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*The DA 10 is lousy!*

I can't remember all the details of the many post I respond to, but three chains in 5000 miles seems like incredibly short life.

Since I've got one DA10 chain in my rotation of chains, I thought I better recheck mine to be sure how it's fairing after about 2000 miles. I first checked the DA 10 chain for roller wear and it wasn't too bad, with the distance between rollers at about .225 inch. I consider .240 inch to be shot. I then checked the length with a 12" scale and it did show noticeable elongation, so I compared it's full length with a new chain and found it to be about .200 inch longer over four feet. 1/4" or .250 is usually considered the maximum. Now I've got to agree with you that the DA 10 is lousy compared to a Campy chain. I also compared the DA chain to a Campy Chorus UN chain, with about 500 more miles of use and the Campy chain was much shorter. The DA chain may cost less to buy, but quite a bit more to own over the long run. A campy chain will easily last twice as long.

I still say that you may find that the KMC chain lasts no longer. Keep us informed on how it wears. It will only be cheap if it has a decent life.

Campy Chorus UN chains can be had for $40-42. They're not cheap, but may cost less per mile than other cheap chains. I've never tired the cheaper Veloce level chain to see how it compares.


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## dgangi (Sep 24, 2003)

C-40 said:


> I can't remember all the details of the many post I respond to, but three chains in 5000 miles seems like incredibly short life.
> 
> Since I've got one DA10 chain in my rotation of chains, I thought I better recheck mine to be sure how it's fairing after about 2000 miles. I first checked the DA 10 chain for roller wear and it wasn't too bad, with the distance between rollers at about .225 inch. I consider .240 inch to be shot. I then checked the length with a 12" scale and it did show noticeable elongation, so I compared it's full length with a new chain and found it to be about .200 inch longer over four feet. 1/4" or .250 is usually considered the maximum. Now I've got to agree with you that the DA 10 is lousy compared to a Campy chain. I also compared the DA chain to a Campy Chorus UN chain, with about 500 more miles of use and the Campy chain was much shorter. The DA chain may cost less to buy, but quite a bit more to own over the long run. A campy chain will easily last twice as long.
> 
> ...


Your findings are interesting and seem to relate to my experience with DA chains -- significant elongation after a short amount of use. Hopefully the KMC chain lasts longer. But even if it lasts the same, the KMC ($25) was appx 40% less than the DA chain ($40) and miles/dollar will be better with the KMC. And as I mentioned in my first post, the KMC chain is much quieter than the DA it replaced. :thumbsup: 

And as a bonus, the KMC has a replaceable link like the SRAM power link, making it so much easier to take on and off the bike.

I had lifespan and breakage issues with Shimano chains on my MTB's when I first switched over to a 9spd drivetrain circa 2003. After the second chain I got fed up and switched to SRAM PC990/991 chains and have had MUCH better experience -- probably 50% longer life before replacement and not a single broken chain (nothing else has changed in the drivetrain). If the KMC doesn't work out, my next move will be a SRAM 10spd chain.

Thx...Doug


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## brewster (Jun 15, 2004)

I used DA 8 and 9spd chains for years without issue. On my Campy 10 drivetrain, I've had a Wippermann SS I just replaced after about 8000 miles. I currently have the new KMC X10SL 5.88. I haven't used it long enough to give a good report. I also have a SRAM PC68/PG850 on a DA 8spd bike. SRAM makes very nice chains and cassette. I'm impressed with the performance, price and weight combination. One requirement I have for chains is a quick link disconnector. I am no longer going to put up with buying expensive little pins everytime I want to take my chain off to clean it.

brewster


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

brewster said:


> I used DA 8 and 9spd chains for years without issue. On my Campy 10 drivetrain, I've had a Wippermann SS I just replaced after about 8000 miles. I currently have the new KMC X10SL 5.88. I haven't used it long enough to give a good report. I also have a SRAM PC68/PG850 on a DA 8spd bike. SRAM makes very nice chains and cassette. I'm impressed with the performance, price and weight combination. One requirement I have for chains is a quick link disconnector. I am no longer going to put up with buying expensive little pins everytime I want to take my chain off to clean it.
> 
> brewster


Unfortunately, the Sram 10spd chain does not have a reuseable "quick link." To remove and reinstall the Sram chain you have to drive pins out and reconnect with a new "quick link." While I love Sram chains, going all the way back to the Sedisport and Sachs incarnations, and have had great results with the 8 and 9spd versions (I'm using a PC991 on my Record 8spd setup - 9spd chains work fine on Campy 8 especially with a newer 9/10 crank), the non-reuseable link makes it a non-starter for me.


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## denmikseb (Aug 7, 2005)

Not wishing to hijack this thread, but I have a related question. My KMC DX10S chain easily passes the 12" measurement check, but I am now starting to get an occassional poor shift. I suspect excessive side play. Is there a way to measure this?


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*sure...*



denmikseb said:


> Not wishing to hijack this thread, but I have a related question. My KMC DX10S chain easily passes the 12" measurement check, but I am now starting to get an occassional poor shift. I suspect excessive side play. Is there a way to measure this?


All you need is a set of automotive feeler gages. Start with a .005 inch feeler and it should easily slip between the inner and outer plates. I've used a chain for 6,000 miles and the side clearance increased to about .013 inch.

http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=4398


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## denmikseb (Aug 7, 2005)

*Thanks, C-40*

So is there a certain side plate measurement, beyond which the chain should be replaced?


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*maybe...*



denmikseb said:


> So is there a certain side plate measurement, beyond which the chain should be replaced?


Each person has to make that decision for themselves. Unlike chain elongation, side clearance has no effect on cog life. 

An occasional shift that's less than perfect may mean nothing, or it could also mean you've got a slight problem with your cable tension or cable housing friction causing a problem. Noting whether the shift problem occurs when shifting to larger or smaller cogs can help the diagnosis.


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## Notgoodbutslow (Jan 10, 2005)

I picked up a KMC10SC tonight, which I'll install in the next week or two. Since it has "special proprietary XSP anti-friction treatment", I won't sonic-clean or use solvents and relubrication prior to installation. I'll just wipe it down and apply lube when it squeaks. I'll post the results in the reviews section.
If I can get 2000 miles out of it (or better, I hope), KMC has a new devotee. I've never beaten 1500 miles on a DA10, and I keep my drivetrain super-clean.


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## otb_again (Jun 11, 2008)

Doing hill repeats on a newly aquired Cannondale SystemSix, I experienced some chain slippage when really cranking up the torque. It seems to shift ok, so I'm wondering if I have bad rings or cogs on this eBay bike and that's when I notice this off-brand chain that I've never heard of. I'm still not sure what the slip problem is, but I'm suspicious of the KMC DX10SC chain.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*not the chain...*

If what you're calling chain slippage is the chain skipping over some of the cog teeth while pedaling under a heavy load, it's most likely worn cogs being used with a new chain. Don't blame the chain. The DX10SC works great. The skipping cogs are worn out. If you've got no idea of the mileage on the chain, I'd change out both the cassette and chain. Performance has this chain on sale once again, for $22, under their Forte house brand.


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## drewmcg (Sep 19, 2005)

C-40 said:


> If what you're calling chain slippage is the chain skipping over some of the cog teeth while pedaling under a heavy load, it's most likely worn cogs being used with a new chain. Don't blame the chain. The DX10SC works great. The skipping cogs are worn out. If you've got no idea of the mileage on the chain, I'd change out both the cassette and chain. Performance has this chain on sale once again, for $22, under their Forte house brand.


+1 You need either a new cog or an older chain!


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## BirdieBogey (Aug 3, 2009)

I'll update this thread. I replaced my Shimano CN-6600 chain that came with my original Ultegra 6600 components with the KMC DX10SC chain after about 3500 miles on the CN-6600 when I noticed that shifting was not smooth despite all the adjustments I could think of. I immediately noticed how quiet the KMC chain was and the shifting was markedly smoother. The KMC chain also seems to clean up nicer.

Caveat: The KMC master link cannot be attached by hand, despite what the instructions show, and it is impossible to remove without a tool. So abandon all notions that you don't have to carry a chain break tool, pins, and extra links if you outfit for chain breakdowns on your rides. When I first got the master link on with the help of two pliers I noticed, of course, that I had threaded the rear-derailleur cage wrong. I could not remove the master link with conventional needle nose pliers so I had to punch out one of the link pins with my chain tool, re-route the chain, and then reattach the chain with a Dura-Ace breakoff chain pin which, by the way, worked beautifully. 1,000 miles of hard climbing later the KMC chain still sings and shifts great. 

PS> I ordered master link removal pliers, but they will stay at home in my tool box.


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## SpamnRice (Nov 17, 2007)

About that link...Is this the one?http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/large_image.php?id=16793 I've used 4 of them without using tools to install or remove them. This last one that I've got now is a bit hard to get open. All tension has to be off the link before it will begin to release. This maybe a good thing depending how you look at it. But putting it together is a breeze. Maybe you just got a bad link? Who knows? Anyway, I wouldn't give up on them w/o another try.


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## Juanmoretime (Nov 24, 2001)

The KMC links are much tighter than they used to be. Nothing a light touch of my Dremel tool won't fix.


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## BirdieBogey (Aug 3, 2009)

That's the one.


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## strathconaman (Jul 3, 2003)

I don't think I have ever used a tool to remove a master link. 

BTW put a CN-6600 and a KMC-10SC side by side and tell me they aren't the same chain.


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

It does seem that the latest KMC 10-speed chains have much tighter tolerances on the "quick link". I had a hell of a time installing a new chain recently because I couldn't get the quick link to slide into it's final position. Turns out that you simply need to put the link in place well enough so you can get it positioned on the top stretch between the freewheel and crank. Then just give a sharp blow to the pedals and the link should snap into the correct position. 

How one gets it unsnapped is another question....


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## jmoryl (Sep 5, 2004)

strathconaman said:


> I don't think I have ever used a tool to remove a master link.
> 
> BTW put a CN-6600 and a KMC-10SC side by side and tell me they aren't the same chain.


I suspect KMC may make the CN-6600 to Shimano's specifications.


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## chocy (Feb 4, 2009)

I use KMC link with my Dura Ace 7900 chain. no problem taking it on and off...


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## thorpej (Dec 23, 2010)

*KMC DX10SC? Not a fan...*

A KMC DX10SC came stock on my CAAD9. It only lasted about 1100 miles before the master link exploded at the top of a climb during a ride. Luckily, I had already crested the hill and was shifting back up into the big ring when it happened, otherwise I would have been a lot more p-o'd than I was at just having to do a chain repair mid-ride. I think I'm going to start carrying latex gloves in my saddle bag.

I also clean my chain with a Park chain cleaner (in situ) once a week, and lube after every ride with ProLink. Also keep chainrings and cassette scrubbed clean at least once every two weeks.

Anyway, I'm going to be switching this bike to SRAM - all of my other bikes have SRAM chains - although now I'm uneasy with the whole snap-on master link.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

Personally and IMO, cleaning is bad if you use water soluble degreaser and don't totally rinse it off and out of the links and dry the chain. Just add lube (preferably wet oil type), wipe off, and chain love you long time.

IMO, the only way to do good by cleaning a chain is to take it off and thoroughly clean it in a non-polar solvent (kerosene, mineral spirits, etc.), let it dry, then lube it.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

All you need to do to keep your chain clean is to wipe it down with a clean rag. If its a little gunky, then you can use a degreaser like White Lightning Clean Streak sprayed on a rag and then run the chain through it. 

There is no reason to use a cleaning tool every week.


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## gtpharr (Oct 6, 2008)

I could not open or close the KMC Missing Link by hand either. First thing I did was go back and read the instructions. I was not compressing the sides against each other as the instructions state you must do. Once I started compressing the sides against each other, I had no problem opening or closing the missing link by hand. I now have 4 chains equipped with the KMC Missing Link and have never needed a tool to open or close them.



BirdieBogey said:


> I'll update this thread. I replaced my Shimano CN-6600 chain that came with my original Ultegra 6600 components with the KMC DX10SC chain after about 3500 miles on the CN-6600 when I noticed that shifting was not smooth despite all the adjustments I could think of. I immediately noticed how quiet the KMC chain was and the shifting was markedly smoother. The KMC chain also seems to clean up nicer.
> 
> Caveat: The KMC master link cannot be attached by hand, despite what the instructions show, and it is impossible to remove without a tool. So abandon all notions that you don't have to carry a chain break tool, pins, and extra links if you outfit for chain breakdowns on your rides. When I first got the master link on with the help of two pliers I noticed, of course, that I had threaded the rear-derailleur cage wrong. I could not remove the master link with conventional needle nose pliers so I had to punch out one of the link pins with my chain tool, re-route the chain, and then reattach the chain with a Dura-Ace breakoff chain pin which, by the way, worked beautifully. 1,000 miles of hard climbing later the KMC chain still sings and shifts great.
> 
> PS> I ordered master link removal pliers, but they will stay at home in my tool box.


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## strathconaman (Jul 3, 2003)

strathconaman said:


> I don't think I have ever used a tool to remove a master link.
> 
> BTW put a CN-6600 and a KMC-10SC side by side and tell me they aren't the same chain.


KMC manufactures many chains for other companies, Shimano included.


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## rustybucket (Mar 2, 2009)

My KMC-10 lasted 600miles and it was just over 1/16" stretched on my new bike. My experience was that it was a bit of crap. I put an Ultegra chain on to replace it and it has lasted a bit over 3000 miles and is not at 1\16" stretch yet. Still use the KMC brand quick link though.


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## MountVision (Jul 8, 2011)

This is an older thread, but I have a current update. My wife and I purchased Orbea Onix bikes the same month (June 2011), mine 57cm Onix T105, hers 49cm Onix Dama TLT. Mine was equipped with a KMC DX10SC chain, 105 cassette and FSA Gossamer crankset, hers included a full Ultegra drivetrain (chain, cassette, crankset).

After 1500 miles my KMC DX10SC chain was shot. It was stretched 3/8" total. I could feel it skipping and one could see that the links weren't sitting properly on the large chain ring. It was also quite noisy. Thinking back, the chain was becoming an issue since about 500 miles, but I didn't think to check it since I thought it was 'new'.

After 2000 miles my wife's Shimano Ultegra chain still looks and runs like new.

I weigh 170 lbs. and I do not race the bike. I do clean both bikes regularly. Perhaps there was a bad batch of KMC chains around 2011?

Anyway, I splurged on a $40 SRAM 1091 replacement chain. So far, it is quiet and very smooth shifting. I hope it lasts.

(Other than the KMC chain, these have been great bikes.)


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