# My New Ride



## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

I was able to pick up my new ride yesterday (a day early) - an F5 (base). I sprung for some 105 pedals (to match the rest of the group), which I don't like so much, and new pair of shoes (which I do like). I also replaced the saddle with the one off my Giant (my butt is used to this one). 

Photo from my phone:

Judd


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## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

So, a few comments. I've only had it for two days. I've been on it today for about an hour and am in the process of trying to dial it in. I'm coming off of a Giant OCR-1 (aluminum frame with carbon fork an seatpost, compact frameset, Ultegra shifters and derailers, Truvitiv crank - triple). 

1) Not sure of this is inherent to the drivetrain or what, but certainly the 105 group on the Felt lacks that silky silence I get from the Ultegra on the Giant. I think I have the 105 group dialed in, but it just makes more "transit noise" as the chain goes round. I enjoy a silent running train, and gather it will quiet up after I've lubed it with my standard heavy weight (which I prefer, but my local shop HATES because it's messy and collects goo from the road). Not a big deal, but I notice it. 

2) I've got a compact set on the Felt, and I gather the triple on my Giant is a full size set. I'll need more time to find gearing that I'm confortable with. 

3) The reach is great, but I'm having trouble with the stack. With the seat plenty proud of the headset, I feel scrunched in the legs. However, a smidge up on the seat post and my legs are over-extended. I wonder if what I'm really experiencing is a slightly shorter crank arm length than what I am used to, which gives me the sensationof feeling hemmed in. I'll have to look into this. The 54cm was noticeably too large (I'm 5'7"), particularly in the reach, so I've convinced I have the right frame size. Despite this, I notice that I seem more "disciplined" on the Felt (for lack of a better term), in terms of turing the crank. It seems like I'm transfering more energy to the crank than what I am used to (and feeling it a bit more in my legs), which may be a result of the geometry, the crank arm length or my new pedals/shoes. No clue. But it seems to result in higher speeds, which is good. Will have to think on this a bit. 

VERY nice ride in my opinion. I'm more comfortable in the hoods than I was on the Giant (which I attribute to better geometry), which is where I spend 99% of my time. And MY GOD are the brakes better on this than those Tektros on my Giant. PLus, looks super cool with the bacl 105 set. 

I want new wheels and an FSA SL-K lite crank set. 

Judd


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## Dray3573 (Jun 22, 2010)

Nice bike. As you get it set up and dialed in the way you want it it will just keep getting better and better.

Regarding stack, it looks like you could raise the stem up a little by putting that spacer below the stem instead of above. It does look like your bars are a lot lower than your seat, which is fine if that's comfortable.

I can imagine switching from a triple to a compact crank will take some getting used to. That may be contributing to the drivetrain noise if you are cross chaining at all..

You will like having new wheels on the bike. I swapped mine for SRAM S30 Sprints with Conti 4000s tires and felt a noticeable change. I have since put those SRAM wheels on my wife new Z85 and put a set of Mavic Carbone SL's on my bike. Both wheels saved me some weight off the stock set.

The crank was another place my bike was able to lose considerable weight. I went for SRAM Force BB30 compact cranks, because I swapped my whole drivetrain for SRAM Rival, and at the time the Force BB30 crank was the only BB30 crank available from SRAM.

The last place you can really save some weight is the bars. I went to the Devox bars (because they were on closeout) and shed almost another 3/4 pound.

Enjoy


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## hatone (May 8, 2011)

Very smart looking bike


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

*Noise*: Try a different lube. I have been using DuMonde Tech for a few years now...it make my MTB drivetrain as quite as a road bike. You'll have to completely strip your chain to get the full effect but it is amazing stuff (no endorsement asked for and none taken) http://www.dumondetech.com/


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## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

I'm really digging my new bike - I'm averaging a mile and hour faster. Not sure the bike is faster (though maybe it is), but it seems to want me to work harder, particularly up inclines where it seems to pull and pull. 

But transit noise still bothers me despite re-lube. I think i've traced it to the rear derailler (but for all I know, its coming from the big ring up front - I'm not quite sure). No amount of adjustment seems to decrease it. So, I'm thinking of switching out the 105 rear for an ultegra (which is what I have on my giant). One question: What is the difference between the 6700 SS and the 6700 GS? The GS appears to use a long cage - but what practical signficance does that have? Do I need the long or short cage on the F5? 

Judd


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## dcl10 (Jul 2, 2010)

The long cage will allow you to use taller cassettes, however I can guarantee you the derailleur itself has nothing to do with this aside from improper adjustment/installation.


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## zach.scofield (Apr 11, 2010)

I agree with dcl10. switching to 6700 will not produce a better result or performance. I know first hand as I made the switch myself. What made a difference for me was using a kmc x10sl chain. My drivetrain wasnt noisy to start with but, the new chain made it extremely quiet and much smoother.


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## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

Well, there goes that idea. At first I thought the chain was too wide for the 
Cassette-as if each link was contacting the cog above and below the
One it was in. But I looked and there is a small (but clear) clearance on
Both sides. It kinda sounds like it's just noisy through the cage. 

I'm now starting to think it may be normal and the reason my old bike is so
Whisper quiet is because with all the miles it has on it the chain and teeeth have worn themselves into a good (and silent) fit. No clue. 

Judd


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## zach.scofield (Apr 11, 2010)

Are you positive the noise you are hearing isnt resonating through the carbon frame. My 1st experience with carbon led me to believe I had a noisy bike but it turns out that the frame was magnifying the noises I heard.


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## Superdave3T (May 11, 2009)

plimpington2 said:


> I'm really digging my new bike - I'm averaging a mile and hour faster. Not sure the bike is faster (though maybe it is), but it seems to want me to work harder, particularly up inclines where it seems to pull and pull.
> 
> But transit noise still bothers me despite re-lube. I think i've traced it to the rear derailler (but for all I know, its coming from the big ring up front - I'm not quite sure). No amount of adjustment seems to decrease it. So, I'm thinking of switching out the 105 rear for an ultegra (which is what I have on my giant). One question: What is the difference between the 6700 SS and the 6700 GS? The GS appears to use a long cage - but what practical signficance does that have? Do I need the long or short cage on the F5?
> 
> Judd


The long cage derailleur will not allow the use of larger cassettes, both the RD-6700-SS and RD-6700-GS have a largest cog capacity of 28t. It is the total capacity you gain with the GS cage as the longer throw takes up more chain and allows the use of a triple crankset (22T difference in chainring size) vs. the double's 16t capacity.

Check the upper jockey wheel runout and alignment on the stock 105 rear derailleur. It is possible that the bike was impacted on the rear derailleur when in transit or if it fell over. This misalignment of the derailleur pulleys can slightly twist the chain and increase drivetrain noise without appreciable loss of shifting precision.

For 2012 Shimano will introduce a 12-30t cassette that would add to the gear range that you lost a bit of when you when from your Giant's triple to the new compact 105 group.

Do you still have the Giant? As for your position, start by replicating the Giant's saddle position EXACTLY so you'll know that one of your touch points hasn't been changed. The next step is dialing in your shoes/pedals so they are in sync with what you are accustomed to. Then position the handlebars.

At 5'7" I can't imagine a frame size would fit you better than the 51cm you've selected.

Good luck,
-SD


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## dcl10 (Jul 2, 2010)

They only list the 28T max because that is the largest they make. People have been using up to 34T cassettes with the GS, but most commonly are using it to run the sram 32T apex.


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## Superdave3T (May 11, 2009)

dcl10 said:


> They only list the 28T max because that is the largest they make. People have been using up to 34T cassettes with the GS, but most commonly are using it to run the sram 32T apex.


They make MTB 10 speed cassettes much larger and they make a 12-30t option. For the 30t you still do not need a long cage rear derailleur.

It is the geometry of the deraileur and range of the upper jockey wheel travel relative to the cassette. Even with adjustment to the b-tension screw you cannot get Shimano-worthy shifting with cassettes larger than 28t. 

Now, of course it is possible that someone, somewhere has the right technique and frame derailleur hanger geo that allows the bike to function, but if the original poster is having drivetrain noise issues moving to a specification out of tolerance or beyond the range of the components original function won't likely solve his problem.

If he wants to use the wider range cassette the 2012 Shimano 10 speed rear derailleurs that will function with 30t cassettes are:

RD-5700-SS-A
RD-4600-SS

His current RD-5700-SS is only designed to work with a 28t cog.

-SD


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## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

A few clarifications and updates: 

I've got the geometry and gearing on my F5 dialed in. I'm very comfortable now with the stack and I've found the sweet spot in terms of gearing (I spend 95% of my time on the big ring in front and around the middle cog (or a bit smaller) in back). We've got nothing but flat land here on the west side of Cleveland - very few hills. In fact, I took out my Giant yesterday for an evening spin and it felt all wrong. Very satisfied with the fit of the F5. 

That being the case, I don't have any inclination to change the cassette. The only reason I asked about the SS v GS was because I wasn't sure which one I need with the cassette I have. As it turns out, it really has more to do with the presence if a triple up front - not an issue on the F5. 

As SD suggests, I think I've located the extra transit noise to the rear cage. I'm not sure exactly how to check the "upper jockey wheel runout" but I will examine the alignment of the cage. 

Judd


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## GT8 (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks for posting your experiences, I'll add to it when I get my F5 out for a spin


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## alf1096 (Feb 7, 2008)

Looks good. Glad you like it.


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## 4bikes (Sep 9, 2011)

Nice.


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## plimpington2 (Jul 8, 2011)

So, i must have run over something that put a nice gash in my rear tire. It went flat and I used this opportunity to replace the white tires with red and black ones. Also, my crank was making a "clunking" sound with each stroke ( just started doing it on my last ride). They said the BB needed to be snugged up. They must have tended to the rear derrailer as well because this baby is running as smoothly and silently as I could ever hope for. I hardly knew the bike was there this afternoon. Very pleased. 

My f5 is fully settled in with Bout 700 miles on it. It seems to get better daily.

Judd


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