# "New" bike purchase



## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

*"New" bike purchase **Picture Added***

Found what I think was a great deal. Just bought a 2008 Specialized Allez Double with just about zero miles for $450. Everything is stock and you can just barely tell it has ever been ridden. Looks like road biking will start sooner for me than I was expecting!:thumbsup:


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Score! Check out parktool.com for brilliant maintenance instructions, and sheldonbrown.com for all kinds of great information.

One of the frequent posters here likes to recommend fittings. I had one done a while ago and I think it was pretty awesome. I'm not sure if I'd recommend it until you're at least used to being on the bike and pedaling continuously.

IMO, if you're going far away from your house at all, you should be able to change a flat. It's good if you can also fix a broken chain and make minor adjustments to the drivetrain.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Congrats... sounds like you got a great deal!

Regarding Andrew's fit comments... since you didn't ask about bike fit, this is somewhat of a tangent, but food for thought nonetheless.

Since you purchased the bike used and we don't have any background info (specifically, whether the bike is sized correctly for you), IMO it would be wise to visit a reputable LBS and invest in a standard fitting (about $50).

Hopefully, the bike_ is _sized correctly, but since sizing comes before fitting, if it isn't and the fitter is even moderately adept at his/ her job, it'll probably take all of 5 minutes before they realize this and won't (or shouldn't) charge you for a fitting, because even the best fitter can't get your fit right if size is off (depending on how 'off' it is).


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## vertigho (Jul 25, 2011)

Glad to hear you found a bike. I recently purchased a 2011 Trek 2.3. Should arrive at the shop on Tuesday. Can't wait!


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## ctmoore79 (Jul 25, 2011)

Sounds like you got a good deal. I am looking for a new bike as well. Hopefully I get just a lucky.


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## silkroad (Jul 8, 2011)

Congrats! Where do you find these kind of deals?:mad2:


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

Regarding the proper size, I went to my local shop and rode a few bikes of different brands and the bikes that fit were all size 56. I am about 5'11" or so. 

As far as finding the bike, I found it on craigslist. It was in a town 100 miles away so I had to have my brother look it over and pick it up. The first person with the money got the bike and the sellers phone was ringing constantly so I went ahead and bought it. I figured that in the outside chance it is the wrong size, I could sell/trade it and probably come out all right in the deal.

With the purchase of the bike and all of the necessary equipment to get started, I am pretty much out of money. I have a friend that has been an avid cyclist for about 20 years that is willing to help me get the bike "fitted" good enough to get started. Looks like that is my only option for right now.

Thanks to all of the people willing to share information/opinions of this site. I read far more than I post! :idea:


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## JasperIN (Oct 25, 2010)

Pictures!! Or its not true!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> I have a friend that has been an avid cyclist for about 20 years that is willing to help me get the bike "fitted" good enough to get started. Looks like that is my only option for right now.


Assuming the bike is sized correctly for you and your friend is competent at fittings, that's a fine (initial) plan. If your fit is off, your body will let you know in fairly short order and you can always tap this forum for advice. 

Beyond that, unless your informal fit allows for pain-free riding, I still suggest a standard LBS fitting (when funds allow).

Add me to the list of members who'd like to see pics of this hot deal.... :thumbsup:


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## karallam (Jun 24, 2011)

that sounds like a good deal


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

The bike will be here this Sunday and pics are sure to follow! :thumbsup:


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I've been riding a Mountain Bike to work 3 days a week and want to get a road bike so I can train for the STP next year. I am deciding on either a "Giant" or a "Trek". I dont want to spend more than $800 to a Grand. I just discoverd bikesdirect.com and now want to concider the 2010 Motobecane Century Comp or the Windsor Falkirk Carbon Road Bike. I dont know anything about biking and need advice on everything.


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## hooj1 (Oct 21, 2008)

That's a pretty good deal and good starter bike


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

YoungBuck said:


> I've been riding a Mountain Bike to work 3 days a week and want to get a road bike so I can train for the STP next year. I am deciding on either a "Giant" or a "Trek". I dont want to spend more than $800 to a Grand. I just discoverd bikesdirect.com and now want to concider the 2010 Motobecane Century Comp or the Windsor Falkirk Carbon Road Bike. I dont know anything about biking and need advice on everything.


Phone Recycled Cycles and see if they have a geared road bike in your size. Then phone 20/20 cycles and do the same. Then Play It Again Sports. Then Second Ascent. I like the people at Second Ascent (in Ballard) quite a lot, so even if they don't have a used road bike for you, they may be worth a visit. Friends of mine also get older bikes repaired there with no weird attitude.

When people in small towns have trouble finding shops dealing in used bikes, fine. But either you're in one of two really major bike towns or you're planning a lot of travel to ride a very flat 200 miles. Buying local is, IMHO, better anytime it's feasible.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I would buy a used one if its just a screaming deal, but I'm thinking I'm almost 40 and probably won't buy another one I feel I deserve a nice new one even if its a starter bike. I'm not too worried about the cost as long as I can keep it under a grand or close to it.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I would also want to use this bike as a commuter.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

At a bike shop I was told I needed about a 13" mountains bike so I'd guess I would need a 13" road bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> At a bike shop I was told I needed about a 13" mountains bike so I'd guess I would need a 13" road bike.


Based on what you've posted thus far, my advice is to visit some reputable LBS's, discuss your intended uses (commuting?), cycling background, fitness and price range, and let them advise you on some makes/ models. Then, get sized/ fitted to some of interest and head out (on the roads, and for some duration) for test rides. 

After the rides, the better shops will get your feedback on fit feel, ride, handling, control placement, etc. and guide you from there. This process IMO/E is the best way to whittle your choices based on your preferences. 

Some cyclists are more sensitive to subtle differences in fit and feel, but by test riding and exposing yourself to those differences you'll have a better chance of making an educated decision.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

What are "reputable LBS" and what is the IMO/E process?


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I would trust a dealer but the bottom line is they sell bikes and what ever they have on the shelf is going to be the best. I need to know what is the best bike I can get for my money.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> What are "reputable LBS" and what is the IMO/E process?


Reputable LBS's are local bike shops of good reputation that can be counted on to provide sound/ solid advice.

IMO/E is in my opinion and experience... as it relates to the process I outlined. A process of bike buying that will better the odds of you getting a bike that's right for you.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

YoungBuck said:


> At a bike shop I was told I needed about a 13" mountains bike so I'd guess I would need a 13" road bike.


13" is pretty small in a mountain bike. Road bike measurement and sizing is pretty different, but if you need a really small mountain bike, you're going to need a really small road bike too. The bummer part of that is that really small bike frames sometimes have funky geometry in order to hit their size goal. The silver lining is that if you ride an uncommon size, bikes to fit you are more likely to hang around on shop floors and end up on closeout.

At least phone around to some shops and see if anything's available that way before you get an online bike. It doesn't look like BD even has either of the ones you named in a size that's in the right ballpark for you. I'd want to kill myself if I did 200 miles on a bike that was significantly too big.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> I would trust a dealer but the bottom line is they sell bikes and what ever they have on the shelf is going to be the best.


You aren't describing a reputable dealer. Well, at least not my definition of one.



YoungBuck said:


> I need to know what is the best bike I can get for my money.


In your opinion, perhaps. In my opinion you need guidance to find the best bike for your intended uses and anatomy (among other factors. 

When I buy any number of products, I want the best one for my money. When I buy a bike, I want one that suites my purposes and fits well.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

Just had an interesting conversation with the LBS owner. I called to see if they do road bike fitting and he told me that yes they do them and have been fitting road bikes for 30years. When I asked about price he said that all fittings are free. When I explained that the bike was purchased on craigslist he said that he didn't care and that he is in this business to see people enjoy cycling, not to make himself rich. "If I was in business to just make money, I would have got into investment banking or something other than owning a bike shop."

This sounds like one way to get and keep loyal customers!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> Just had an interesting conversation with the LBS owner. I called to see if they do road bike fitting and he told me that yes they do them and have been fitting road bikes for 30years. When I asked about price he said that all fittings are free. When I explained that the bike was purchased on craigslist he said that he didn't care and that he is in this business to see people enjoy cycling, not to make himself rich. "If I was in business to just make money, I would have got into investment banking or something other than owning a bike shop."
> 
> This sounds like one way to get and keep loyal customers!


Sounds like a great shop and a great resource. I suggest patronizing it whenever possible.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Sounds like a great shop and a great resource. I suggest patronizing it whenever possible.


My thoughts exactly.


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## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

YoungBuck said:


> I've been riding a Mountain Bike to work 3 days a week and want to get a road bike so I can train for the STP next year. I am deciding on either a "Giant" or a "Trek". I dont want to spend more than $800 to a Grand. I just discoverd bikesdirect.com and now want to concider the 2010 Motobecane Century Comp or the Windsor Falkirk Carbon Road Bike. I dont know anything about biking and need advice on everything.


I don't know anything about biking either (as you can see this is my first post) and was considering buying a Motobecane on BD as well. After reading many forums on RBR, and taking the advice of my cousin I decided to look at a couple bike shops in the area. In that price range I looked at Fuji Newest 3.0 ($750), Fuji Roubaix 2.0 ($1150), Fuji Roubaix 3.0 ($850), Cannondale Caad9 6 ($1000) and the Cannondale Caad8 (Six 6) (on sale for $899). All the bikes had either Sora (Newest), Tiagra (Caad9 and the Roubaix 2.0) or a mixture of the two for components (Roubaix, 3.0 and Six 6). I think I made the right decision to go to the bike stores and compare the bikes instead of buying online and hoping to get the right fit. I'm about 5'11 and the 56 is my size on all those bikes. I really like the Fuji Roubaix 2.0 but it was a little too pricey for me. There's nothing better than a fitting and test ride (IMHO) for a beginner like me. And for the record I put some $ down on Cannondale Six 6, the carbon rear triangle did it for me. I hope to have the bike in hand by next month. Now all i need is some pedals and shoes... Any suggestions?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

On my road bike, I ride with Speedplay pedals and Sidi shoes. It's kind of a pricey setup, and the cleats aren't very walkable.

On my mountain bike, I have Time ATAC Aliums and Specialized Comp shoes. It's a less expensive setup, but the pedals don't have as much float. My knees are a little dodgy, so if I go on long road rides with the Times, I start to get a little uncomfortable. Too bad Speedplays freak out when you look at dirt...

A lot of people are very happy on Shimano SPDs or Crank Bros. Eggbeaters. So those are a couple other mountain pedals. The shoes are much more walkable, and if you get something for fast guys, they're plenty stiff.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

So what I'm reading is to just go ahead and trust my LBS (thanks PJ352). They want me to buy the bikes they stock but what about the off brands I see on Bike direct.

As for the 13" Mountain Bike.. I have always had a Wally Mart bike and aparently never had one that fit. I'm 5'5" 200lbs. The guy at the shop said I needed a small one because of my inseam. So what size road bike do I need?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

bent_remy said:


> I don't know anything about biking either (as you can see this is my first post) and was considering buying a Motobecane on BD as well. After reading many forums on RBR, and taking the advice of my cousin I decided to look at a couple bike shops in the area. In that price range I looked at Fuji Newest 3.0 ($750), Fuji Roubaix 2.0 ($1150), Fuji Roubaix 3.0 ($850), Cannondale Caad9 6 ($1000) and the Cannondale Caad8 (Six 6) (on sale for $899). All the bikes had either Sora (Newest), Tiagra (Caad9 and the Roubaix 2.0) or a mixture of the two for components (Roubaix, 3.0 and Six 6).* I think I made the right decision to go to the bike stores and compare the bikes instead of buying online and hoping to get the right fit.* I'm about 5'11 and the 56 is my size on all those bikes. I really like the Fuji Roubaix 2.0 but it was a little too pricey for me. *There's nothing better than a fitting and test ride (IMHO) for a beginner like me.* And for the record I put some $ down on Cannondale Six 6, the carbon rear triangle did it for me. I hope to have the bike in hand by next month. Now all i need is some pedals and shoes... Any suggestions?


Kudo's to you for going the LBS route for the reasons mentioned (among others), and congrats on the new bike. Post pics when you're able (it's tradition here ).

Re: your shoe/ pedal question, there are a couple of recent threads on the topic, so I suggest seeking them out and if you have any questions/ comment after reading, post and there and we'll assist.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> *So what I'm reading is to just go ahead and trust my LBS *(thanks PJ352). They want me to buy the bikes they stock but what about the off brands I see on Bike direct.
> 
> As for the 13" Mountain Bike.. I have always had a Wally Mart bike and aparently never had one that fit. I'm 5'5" 200lbs. The guy at the shop said I needed a small one because of my inseam. So what size road bike do I need?


I'm not suggesting that you _blindly_ trust your LBS. I'm suggesting that you seek out reputable LBS's, and spending time there/ asking the right questions will help you determine that.

The better shops take their time to discuss cycling with you, asking about intended use, goals, price range, cycling experience, fitness... then suggest bikes that might suite your uses and anatomy, then come test rides. Sure, they want you to buy what they carry, but if you decide on a specific brand/ model and are sized to a 50cm for that bike, they won't push a 54 they happen to have on stock - at least not the reputable shops, and that's who you want to deal with.

Regarding your question on sizing requirements, offering only weight and height (and still being on the fence re: hybrid versus drop bar bike), no one is going to reliably answer that. Even if you did decide between the two, there are still variables in sizing between makes/ models to consider that make any answer a ballpark guess, which brings us back to the issue of buying online.

If someone in your situation goes the BD (or similar) route, the onus is on you to get sizing right. They treat your order like any other. You choose the size (you _think_ you need) from a pull down menu and they ship it to you. If (after final assembly/ tuning/ setup - at the customers expense) you decide it's not the right size for you, it has to be disassembled, packed and shipped back - again, at the customers expense. All in all, not worth the hassle, IMHO.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

YoungBuck said:


> So what I'm reading is to just go ahead and trust my LBS (thanks PJ352). They want me to buy the bikes they stock but what about the off brands I see on Bike direct.
> 
> As for the 13" Mountain Bike.. I have always had a Wally Mart bike and aparently never had one that fit. I'm 5'5" 200lbs. The guy at the shop said I needed a small one because of my inseam. So what size road bike do I need?


Are you located in Seattle? I think Second Ascent is a great place to shop for a bike. Gregg's Greenlake is the one I go to most frequently, because it's close to me. I also had a good experience test-riding at the U Village Counterbalance location. 

While inseam is not a completely useless metric for sizing a bike, it's pretty bad and your shop guy is using it backwards from how I would. Recommending a rider size down because of a shorter inseam frequently exacerbates fit problems he might have from having somewhat unusual proportions - the distance on a bike that has the least wiggle room is horizontal reach. On a mountain bike, stems can be from 70 or 80mm to 100 or 110 mm and still give acceptable handling, although certain kinds of riders would find the extremes of that range to be unacceptable. It's actually a fair amount of adjustability, but nothing in comparison to the amount of vertical adjustability in the handlebars and saddle. I think the ballpark with a road bike is smaller. Anyway, someone of a given height with a shorter inseam than average will usually also have a longer torso than average, unless it's that he has a really long neck. So a lot of riders with short inseams do better sizing up or just sticking with the most common size among riders of their height.

Personally I wouldn't recommend a size to a rider based on height, either over the internet or in person. The point of the whole discussion is that you have to ride a few. The sizes on bikes don't even mean the same thing from bike to bike.

It sounds like you still are trying to figure out which kind of bike you want. Personally, I wouldn't want to ride to Portland on flat bars. But a fair number of people would disagree with me.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

Andrew I loved reading your post it made me laughf this morning when you were describing body types. Basically I'm built like a tree stump but I dont have much of a belly I'm not a fat guy. I'm a big short guy I loved to lift weights and I'm about 200lbs.

Thanks to Andrew and PJ for being patient. I have decided that I am going to purchase a road bike. I will keep my current Mountain Bike and just fix it.

I'm looking at the BD site hard because I can get a carbon fiber bike from them in my price range but couldent get one from a shop. What I gleem from this so far is that the bikes from BD are just as good as the ones from the dealer but I need to use the dealer to get my sizing right. Would a dealer still help me with a bike from BD if I needed help with it after I bought it.

I live south of seattle down by that Millitary base "Ft Lewis" so I dont want to go to Seattle to look at bikes unless your going to tell me there are no reputable ones down here. BTW I didnt know they would let me test ride them thanks for that.

Would it be worth it to take the risk and go thru BD to get a carbon fiber bike and are there any reputable dealers in my area?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> Andrew I loved reading your post it made me laughf this morning when you were describing body types. Basically I'm built like a tree stump but I dont have much of a belly I'm not a fat guy. I'm a big short guy I loved to lift weights and I'm about 200lbs.
> 
> Thanks to Andrew and PJ for being patient. I have decided that I am going to purchase a road bike. I will keep my current Mountain Bike and just fix it.
> 
> ...


Since I'm unfamiliar with your area, I'll leave that to someone who is to tell you if there are reputable LBS's. If not, depending on how far Seattle is and considering the importance of getting sizing right, it might be worth the trek there, even if you do go the BD route.

Here's why I say this... indications are that you fall outside of the 'norm' for height and possibly inseam and most other facets of fit are unknown. That given, it's all the more important for you to be sized working with someone one on one. No sizing/ geo charts, online calculators (or similar) are going to assure you of a proper fitting bike. And since 'value' is what you're after, you need to get fit right, because an ill fitting bike isn't going to get you there. 

Even when buying online you'll need LBS services (final assembly, tuning, fit, accessories), so my advice is to seek out a reputable shop, be upfront on your intentions to purchase online and ask for a standard fitting (about $50). After the fitting, note the year, make, model and frame size of the test bike and use that info to search out a bike of similar geo at the BD (or similar) sites. The closer the numbers are to that of the test bike, the closer the match will be. And if you have any questions or concerns when comparing, update this thread and we'll assist. 

Also, mention to the LBS that you'll be needing assistance in setting up the new purchase and will solicit their services. All told, it might cost you $100-$150, but you'll better the odds of getting a correctly sized/ properly set up bike. This assumes you don't work on your bikes. If you do, the cost will be lower. 

Just a FYI, but these 'hidden' charges are why online purchases aren't always the best for noobs, and they narrow the gap between advertised online process and what many buyers end up paying. Not trying to dissuade you from the purchase, just offering some realities.

HTH...


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to drive all the way through Tacoma and into Seattle. It's so much fun!

Tacoma has a few shops, though. I did a search for "bike shop" after parking Google Maps on Ft. Lewis. The only ones I recognized were REI, Performance Bike and Old Town Bicycle Shop. I know Old Town only to the extent that I see their name plastered on people's jerseys at races sometimes. So, take that for what it's worth. REI and Performance are both pretty uneven - REI locations sometimes employ some really knowledgeable people and great shop technicians, and sometimes they don't. Performance Bike seems to have a similar reputation to REI, but generally worse.

I think it would be worthwhile for you to visit a few shops in Tacoma, at least. Ride a bunch of bikes and see what you think. You can still get a bike from BD - it's a free country - but you'll almost certainly have a better idea of what you're doing, and what may or may not work for your particular anatomy.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

What do you think of "Bike Tech".


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

No idea. I basically posted my entire knowledge of the bike shops of Tacoma in #35.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> What do you think of "Bike Tech".


If they're nearby, check them out. IMO nothing trumps firsthand experience, because even if a member here sings their praises, you may not (and vice versa).

FWIW, with lapses in between I've taken about 2 years to decide on a bike, once driving 5+ hours in a day to test ride two. I'm not suggesting everyone do the same, but IMO it is worth expending some time/ effort upfront in the hopes of getting what's best for you.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I'm Going to go to Bike Tech today and drop off my Mountain Bike. I want to see if they can get it working better. I would like to keep that bike and buy a good road bike.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I just spent $100.00 to get my old bike tuned up and fixed. I kept thinking for another $200.00 I could just buy a new mountains bike but I resisted the temptation. I want to save up for a new road bike.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Some people say that a ski is only as good as the tune. I think bikes are similar - the point of having nice, correctly-sized equipment is to have something that you can ride comfortably and that goes, stops and shifts consistently, and doesn't do anything weird. It's a surprisingly high standard, and when you also want a bike to meet that standard for a fast-paced ride or race, it gets a little higher still. Which is to say that I'll take my relatively inexpensive mountain bike, which is really dialed in for me and can generally be relied on to just work, without me having to mess around with it, over someone else's carbon feather full-suspension whoop-de-doo bike with fancy wheels, if the drivetrain and wheels are all messed up and part of this bizarre hypothetical is that I'm not allowed to tune it.

None of this stuff is rocket science. Check out parktool.com for pictorial instructions for tuning almost everything on a bike. Getting a professional tune isn't a waste - it's a lot easier to maintain a bike at a high level of reliability if everything's working right to begin with. I think I save a lot of money doing my own maintenance, though, and it also means when I'm riding and I notice something's not quite right, I can take care of it pretty quickly when I get home and it doesn't turn into a bigger problem.

I may be the opposite of PJ in my bike selection method - the most time I've ever spent choosing a bike is about two weekends. I blew it a little on the fit of my nicest road bike, but that one was pretty much me buying the one that was on clearance. So, spend a little more time than that.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

Andrew I'm a inpulsive person and dont like to waste the time to do the reserch. This is the most reserch I've done for a purchase. I could be quite happy with a Wallmart bike. However Ive never had anything that is the best. Somthing I can be proud of around more fortunate people. I have lots of toys that most my friends think are cool but I want somthing that is just the best not just ok.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The bike market is really screwed up right now. If you want the best, it costs five figures and, ironically, is lighter than what professionals are allowed to race internationally.

With your budget, you need to prioritize. Something I like about cycling is that even though there's some really expensive gear available for it, it's still a sport, and the engine is still the most important part of the bike in terms of how fast it'll go. That democratizes things some.

The reason PJ and I keep emphasizing fit is that on a bike with bad fit, even with nicer components, you won't perform your best. With really bad fit, you won't have any fun either. The STP is over 200 miles long, and takes a long time. I was looking for the record and can't find it, but it's many hours.

Spend eight hours on a bike, and you don't care what derailleurs you have. Or, I don't. I care that the handlebars have someplace I can put my hands and be comfortable, I care that the saddle fits me, and I care that the bike goes where I want it to. Shop BD and you're crossing your fingers that you can have that, and your friends with higher budgets will look down on it no matter how much you spent on it.

Ultimately, you're an adult and it's your money.


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## JasperIN (Oct 25, 2010)

dbleyepatches said:


> The bike will be here this Sunday and pics are sure to follow! :thumbsup:


Its sunday!! PICS!!


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## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Kudo's to you for going the LBS route for the reasons mentioned (among others), and congrats on the new bike. Post pics when you're able (it's tradition here ).
> 
> Re: your shoe/ pedal question, there are a couple of recent threads on the topic, so I suggest seeking them out and if you have any questions/ comment after reading, post and there and we'll assist.


Ok here it is.....

View attachment 236875


View attachment 236876


Just got it yesterday, first ride was today. I ended up shimano105 pedals and specialized comp road shoe. So Buck if you want the best you gotta pay for the best. This entire setup cost about 1400 and i still need a few things (cateye, shorts ect.). As far as I'm concerned that's alot of money but I feel I got the best bike I could for my $. A $400 bike for the internet is gonna ride like a $400 bike from the internet. A $1000 bike from an Lbs that you can test ride, get fitted and compare to other bikes is gonna be just that. In the end you get what you pay for. How much you spend is up to you.

P.S: Thanks PJ, I looked at the forums on the pedals and shoes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice looking bike, congrats and enjoy!!

Based on my experiences, I think you made a good choice in pedals and shoes. I hope they serve you well.

Wise words re: the bike buying process. Hopefully others will pay heed and act accordingly.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I just had a crummy ride in to work and now I regret spending the money to get my old bike tuned up. The guy at the bike dealer told me for $67.00 he would get it all working. I was aprehensive because I want to toss it and buy a nice road bike. It ended up costing me a hundred to get the bike back. Then ridings it to work it shifts fine mow but the brake drags. I now got more money inveated into this old bike than its worth. I just want to use this one until I buy a road bike but if I have to spend money on it I'd rather spend it at Walmart on a new cheep bike that will work just as good.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I hear allot of people stressing that the fitting is verry inportant. I dont think I know what your meaning. Is it the frame size and seat hight?


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## scottzj (Oct 4, 2010)

Having your local bike shop fit you is very very important. An uncomfortable bike, is one that doesnt get ridden much. When everything is sized up correctly, then riding is much more enjoyable.
Your seat height compared to bars, seat disstance from the bars, angle of the bars, the height of seat compared to knee bend while peddling and so on. There are quite a few variations that need to be done correctly in order for the fit to really work for ya....oh and also helps to have the correct size frame too hehe....


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## silkroad (Jul 8, 2011)

YoungBuck said:


> I hear allot of people stressing that the fitting is verry inportant. I dont think I know what your meaning. Is it the frame size and seat hight?


its the frame, everything else is quite adjustable.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> I just had a crummy ride in to work and now I regret spending the money to get my old bike tuned up. The guy at the bike dealer told me for $67.00 he would get it all working. I was aprehensive because I want to toss it and buy a nice road bike. *It ended up costing me a hundred to get the bike back. Then ridings it to work it shifts fine mow but the brake drags.* I now got more money inveated into this old bike than its worth. I just want to use this one until I buy a road bike but if I have to spend money on it I'd rather spend it at Walmart on a new cheep bike that will work just as good.


In years past I've had similar expereinces. That's why I now do all my own wrenching. Food for thought for the future....

That aside, you've paid to have your bike overhauled/ tuned, so bring it back and tell them about the brake drag. That should be fixed no charge.


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## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

scottzj said:


> Having your local bike shop fit you is very very important. An uncomfortable bike, is one that doesnt get ridden much. When everything is sized up correctly, then riding is much more enjoyable.
> Your seat height compared to bars, seat distance from the bars, angle of the bars, the height of seat compared to knee bend while peddling and so on. There are quite a few variations that need to be done correctly in order for the fit to really work for ya....oh and also helps to have the correct size frame too hehe....


I agree. I'm 5'11 and with a leg length proportional to the rest my body. I ended up with a 56cm frame aka large frame (at least on cannondales and fuji's). So I bought the bike was that was my correct size. But before I rode it I had the seat post height adjusted,my saddle adjusted (forward) and my handlebar angle adjusted to make the bike most comfortable for me (the fit). I'm a novice in cycling and haven't ridden a bike in over 8 years. My first ride was last night, A 16 miler with some friends and I'm so glad I had the bike fitted before I attempted that ride. I'm not in bike shape yet... but I wouldn't have made it back home if my bike was uncomfortable.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

I realize that this post has gone a different direction since I started it but I got my 2008 Allez home last night and it is in better shape than I thought when I bought it. I was hoping to get into the LBS for a fitting today but my order from bike nashbar isn't here yet and I need some of that gear to get the fitting done (they are saying it is 9 days shipping to Nebraska!). 

As I found when I was looking around, I have a very strange fit when it comes to road bikes. I am just over 5'11" with an inseam of around 35". Obviously my torso is pretty short. With the 56.5 cm Allez I have about 3" of stand over clearance but I am going to need a much shorter stem so I can reach the bars comfortably. I had to find a compromise between what was right for my leg length and what I could reach with my arms and the 56.5 was the best.

I will attempt to post some pics later tonight as promised. I am going to have to get some help from the better half because her high dollar camera is far above my pay grade!


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## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

dbleyepatches said:


> I realize that this post has gone a different direction since I started it but I got my 2008 Allez home last night and it is in better shape than I thought when I bought it. I was hoping to get into the LBS for a fitting today but my order from bike nashbar isn't here yet and I need some of that gear to get the fitting done (they are saying it is 9 days shipping to Nebraska!).
> 
> As I found when I was looking around, I have a very strange fit when it comes to road bikes. I am just over 5'11" with an inseam of around 35". Obviously my torso is pretty short. With the 56.5 cm Allez I have about 3" of stand over clearance but I am going to need a much shorter stem so I can reach the bars comfortably. I had to find a compromise between what was right for my leg length and what I could reach with my arms and the 56.5 was the best.
> 
> I will attempt to post some pics later tonight as promised. I am going to have to get some help from the better half because her high dollar camera is far above my pay grade!


Damn 9 days! What they shipping by.... Pony Express?


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## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

YoungBuck said:


> I hear allot of people stressing that the fitting is verry inportant. I dont think I know what your meaning. Is it the frame size and seat hight?


OK Young Buck hopefully this link can shed some light on the fitting process and its importance...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAl_5e7bIHk


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

*Pic as promised*

Here she is:

View attachment 236965


This is the 2008 (I believe) Specialized Allez that I found on craiglist. Paid $450 and it shows very little use.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice bike!! I could be mistaken, but I think it's an '07 Allez Double. 
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?arc=2007&spid=21888&gold_ses=

Frame sizes are even numbered, so you have a 56cm. The 56.5 is the effective top tube measurement.

Given the info you mentioned in your other post re: your height, inseam and standover, I think a 58cm might have been better, but you next step is to get a fitting and go from there. 

Regarding running a shorter stem, many cyclists believe that shorter stems make steering twitchy, but IME what really happens is that (to accommodate for reach requirements) shorter stems are fitted to bikes sized slightly too large for given rider, so f/r weight distribution is affected. _That's_ what contributes to the twitchy handling. This is just meant to be a FYI... see what the fitter thinks and go from there...


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Nice bike!! I could be mistaken, but I think it's an '07 Allez Double.
> http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?arc=2007&spid=21888&gold_ses=
> 
> Frame sizes are even numbered, so you have a 56cm. The 56.5 is the effective top tube measurement.
> ...


I get fitted on Thursday. I can't wait to get this thing all set up and hit the road. It was a toss up between the 56 and the 58 when I was looking. My reach was the biggest issue. Of the three places that I went, the 56 was what was recommended at two of them (on different brands). I guess we will see what they have to say on Thursday. I guess if the bike is too small to fit right, I should be able to get my money back out of it and find something else.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> I get fitted on Thursday. I can't wait to get this thing all set up and hit the road. It was a toss up between the 56 and the 58 when I was looking. My reach was the biggest issue. *Of the three places that I went, the 56 was what was recommended at two of them (on different brands). *I guess we will see what they have to say on Thursday. I guess if the bike is too small to fit right, I should be able to get my money back out of it and find something else.


While being sized to a 56 at two different shops carrying two different brands _might_ indicate your size in the Allez, it also may not, because frame sizes vary from brand to brand and sometimes within brands, depending on model.

I wouldn't fret about it too much. See what happens Thursday and (as you say) you have options.

Good luck, and update us on how the fitting goes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> I hear allot of people stressing that the fitting is verry inportant. I dont think I know what your meaning. Is it the frame size and seat hight?


Here's my general overview of an LBS fitting. Note that some fit systems (if used) can significantly affect/ alter the sequence. 

_Sizing_ (determining the correct frame size in a given make/ model) comes before _fitting_ and is based on a number of factors (riders height, inseam, fitness, flexibility, cycling experiences, riding style/ preferences, anatomical issues....)

Once size is chosen (and preferably pedal system), the bike is (normally) set up on a stationary trainer and the fitting begins. After initial cleat set up is completed, saddle height and fore/ aft adjustments are made and the saddle leveled. Reach/ drop requirements are then addressed with different combinations of stem length, angle and spacers and the rider test rides the initial set up. Once tweaks are made to fit (if needed), the fitting is completed. 

Because fit evolves over time, subsequent tweaks are common. Reputable shops know this, and offer that the rider return when/ if any fit issues develop as he/ she builds saddle time.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

silkroad said:


> its the frame, everything else is quite adjustable.


So if I find out what my frame size is then I can get a carbon fiber bike off the net and everything else is adjustable.

I couldent afford a carbon fiber bike out of a store but I can off the net.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> In years past I've had similar expereinces. That's why I now do all my own wrenching. Food for thought for the future....
> 
> That aside, you've paid to have your bike overhauled/ tuned, so bring it back and tell them about the brake drag. That should be fixed no charge.


Sure did ruin my whole day. I dont have the time to take it to them till later this week so that means I dont get to ride at all this week because Im not going to ride it that way. I am a bit of a mechanic but I mostly work on my Harley and my old truck. I'm sure I could fix this but I dont have the time to take it apart and see how it works. I also shouldent have to I already paid for it. If they tell me that it needs more parts Im going to sugest they give me my money back and they can keep the bike I can go to Walmart and buy another cheep bike for $200.00 and be just fine.


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## silkroad (Jul 8, 2011)

YoungBuck said:


> So if I find out what my frame size is then I can get a carbon fiber bike off the net and everything else is adjustable.
> 
> I couldent afford a carbon fiber bike out of a store but I can off the net.


You have to consider the geometries too, bike companies differ from each other.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> So *if I find out what my frame size is then I can get a carbon fiber bike off the net and everything else is adjustable*.
> 
> I couldent afford a carbon fiber bike out of a store but I can off the net.


Frame sizing from brand to brand (and even between models) is nowhere near the same, so operating under that premise might get you geometry you aren't expecting, and won't fit you very well.

IMO/E_ real _value for your money is in a bike that fits well and you'll want to ride, so I suggest sticking with a reputable LBS for sizing/ fitting assistance.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

Thanks for straightening me out on that frame size being 56 instead of 56.5 PJ352. You do the new guys like me a great service in this forum. I appreciate your patience and that you are willing to explain things.

And yes, it looks like it is a 2007.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

bent_remy said:


> OK Young Buck hopefully this link can shed some light on the fitting process and its importance...
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAl_5e7bIHk



Now I understand thank you.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

Well I did the best "fitting" that I could do here in my living room to get me by until I get fitted for real on thursday. I just couldn't wait to ride the thing any more. Took it out of town about 4 miles and back with a big hill (for central Nebraska) at the end.

Everything felt pretty good and I was able to pedal the whole time which surprised me with my long vacation from cycling. The only real issue was that I seemed to slide forward on the seat and had to keep sliding back to stay in the right position. I adjusted the seat so that it is level and should be close on height so that is an issue that I will have to get straightened out on thursday. 

Man are road bikes fast when you compare them to mountain bikes! I knew that there was going to be a difference but these things are truly amazing.

All in all, it is great to be cycling again!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> The only real issue was that *I seemed to slide forward on the seat and had to keep sliding back to stay in the right position*. I adjusted the seat so that it is level and should be close on height so that is an issue that I will have to get straightened out on thursday.


There could be a couple of reasons for that. Since you're getting fitted Thursday, if you feel like tinkering a little, try adjusting the nose of the saddle up _slightly_. You can use a straight edge, placing it atop the saddle running parallel with the top tube, then measuring from the ground to it at the saddle nose and also at the stem and calculating the difference. A level can also be used. No matter the method used, just make sure the bike is level during this process and keep the saddle tilt slight, being careful to avoid any pressure ahead of your sit bones.

If that didn't work, the next possibility is that your reach is excessive and you'll need a shorter stem, but save that adjustment for Thursday.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> There could be a couple of reasons for that. Since you're getting fitted Thursday, if you feel like tinkering a little, try adjusting the nose of the saddle up _slightly_. You can use a straight edge, placing it atop the saddle running parallel with the top tube, then measuring from the ground to it at the saddle nose and also at the stem and calculating the difference. A level can also be used. No matter the method used, just make sure the bike is level during this process and keep the saddle tilt slight, being careful to avoid any pressure ahead of your sit bones.
> 
> If that didn't work, the next possibility is that your reach is excessive and you'll need a shorter stem, but save that adjustment for Thursday.


I heard that when you are on the bike with your hands on the shifter hoods you should be able to look down and the handle bars should obscure the view of the front axle. This is a ball park way of knowing that your horizontal position is correct. If that is right, the stem on this bike is about 2" too long.

I think that I will wait to adjust the seat until thursday. I have to fix fence in the morning because my calves are getting out again and be to work by 1130 so not much time to ride tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the seat though. Maybe I won't sound like I am totally lost during the bike fitting! :thumbsup:


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> I heard that when you are on the bike with your hands on the shifter hoods you should be able to look down and the handle bars should obscure the view of the front axle. This is a ball park way of knowing that your horizontal position is correct. If that is right, the stem on this bike is about 2" too long.


Ball park is a good way of putting it. Personally, I wouldn't fit someone using that method.

FWIW 2 inches equates to close to 5cm's, so we can only hope your stem isn't quite that long. I say that because while it's not a _definite_ indicator that the frame size isn't right for you, but it can be one indicator.

I'd be anxious to here (or read) how things go Thursday, so pls update us when possible.


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## lastingxcauses (Aug 4, 2011)

Good find buddy,!


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## brittonal (Jul 18, 2011)

vertigho said:


> Glad to hear you found a bike. I recently purchased a 2011 Trek 2.3. Should arrive at the shop on Tuesday. Can't wait!


How are you liking it? Mine just came in today but haven't picked it up yet.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

Got the fitting done today and found a couple things wrong. The saddle was 3.5 cm too low and I didn't need a new stem, just needed to flip the factory stem over . Had to move the saddle just a tad forward and also tip the bars up just a bit.

He did tell me that I am a bit of an interesting fit with my proportions. He said that I fall between a 56 and a 58 but he would have sold me the 56 with my shorter reach so it is the right bike for me.

When I got home I went for my longest ride so far which was 19 miles and things felt pretty good. I do not have a computer but I made the ride right at an hour and I was not killing myself at that pace. My forearms right by my elbow got a little sore but other than that I felt pretty good. I guess when you take 10 years off from cycling all together and have never ridden a road bike before, you will probably be a little sore in the beginning.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> Got the fitting done today and found a couple things wrong. The saddle was 3.5 cm too low and I didn't need a new stem, just needed to flip the factory stem over . Had to move the saddle just a tad forward and also tip the bars up just a bit.
> 
> He did tell me that I am a bit of an interesting fit with my proportions. He said that I fall between a 56 and a 58 but he would have sold me the 56 with my shorter reach so it is the right bike for me.
> 
> When I got home I went for my longest ride so far which was 19 miles and things felt pretty good. I do not have a computer but I made the ride right at an hour and I was not killing myself at that pace. My forearms right by my elbow got a little sore but other than that I felt pretty good. I guess when you take 10 years off from cycling all together and have never ridden a road bike before, you will probably be a little sore in the beginning.


Wow, if I were riding with a saddle height 3.5cm's too low my knees would be toast. 

But on the plus side you got it (and a couple of other issues) sorted out, so all in all seems like a good fitting. The best news is that the bike is sized correctly for you - an example of how working one on one with a fitter beats internet 'fittings' (more, guesses) because they're seeing you on the bike, how you're proportioned and how flexible you are.

Yes, it's understandable that after a 10 year absence some body part is feeling the effects during your reacclimation to road riding, but FWIW most noobs complain about their butts being sore, so I think you're ahead of the game.

Try keeping a slightly loose grip on the bars, because tighter grips tend to transmit more road vibration from the hands up the arms. Generally, relax the upper torso, arms slightly bent at the elbows. 

Next thing to consider (IMO) would be a computer with cadence. A useful tool to help smooth the pedal stroke and save the knees. ~$30 for a wired version.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Wow, if I were riding with a saddle height 3.5cm's too low my knees would be toast.
> 
> But on the plus side you got it (and a couple of other issues) sorted out, so all in all seems like a good fitting. The best news is that the bike is sized correctly for you - an example of how working one on one with a fitter beats internet 'fittings' (more, guesses) because they're seeing you on the bike, how you're proportioned and how flexible you are.
> 
> ...


There is a huge buzz about cadence. Should my cadence be the same on the hills and the flats? What is ideal?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> There is a huge buzz about cadence. Should my cadence be the same on the hills and the flats? What is ideal?


Cadence can vary with terrain/ conditions, but there's a distinct advantage in keeping within a range, which varies by individual and takes most cyclists time to develop.

With some saddle time, most riders feel that a range of 80-90 feels about right, but I'd up that to 85-95, but (as mentioned) don't expect to attain that for awhile. The computer with cadence function can help you monitor (and react) to changes within your (developing) range.


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## dbleyepatches (Jun 22, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Cadence can vary with terrain/ conditions, but there's a distinct advantage in keeping within a range, which varies by individual and takes most cyclists time to develop.
> 
> With some saddle time, most riders feel that a range of 80-90 feels about right, but I'd up that to 85-95, but (as mentioned) don't expect to attain that for awhile. The computer with cadence function can help you monitor (and react) to changes within your (developing) range.


By cadence you are talking about the RPM of the crank right? I was thinking about that on my ride today and I would guess that I am in the 80 range or so when pedaling comfortably. Obviously I am not sure of the RPM, but it is quite a bit faster that one revolution per second.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

dbleyepatches said:


> By cadence you are talking about the RPM of the crank right? I was thinking about that on my ride today and I would guess that I am in the 80 range or so when pedaling comfortably. Obviously I am not sure of the RPM, but it is quite a bit faster that one revolution per second.


Exactly right. Cadence is one full revolution of the crankarm. 

If you were in the 80 range today and were able to sustain it, I'd say you're off to a good start.


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## Heavy0112 (Aug 13, 2011)

Nice catch


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I rode a road bike today for the first time. It was a Specalized brand bike. The guy at this bike shop is saying need between a 43 and a 47 he didnt have anything smaller than a 47 for me to ride. we looked at his book and he sugested that I go with a womens bike because they have more small ones to chose from than in the mens bikes.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Try it.

The only difference between men's and women's bikes at those sizes is marketing. And sometimes a narrower handlebar and wider saddle.

Sometimes bikes that small aren't actually smaller in the dimension that matters - reach. But you'd have to draft the bike frame on a piece of paper or computer to figure it out.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Try it.
> 
> The only difference between men's and women's bikes at those sizes is marketing. And sometimes a narrower handlebar and wider saddle.
> 
> Sometimes bikes that small aren't actually smaller in the dimension that matters - reach. But you'd have to draft the bike frame on a piece of paper or computer to figure it out.


Without citing specific brands/ models, we could probably argue the differences in men's and women's bikes, but IME many makers are now offering smaller (women's) sizes as well as shorter reach on comparably sized WSD (versus std) bikes, so (assuming they sized him correctly) I think the LBS gave YoungBuck good advice.

Not sure why you're saying calculating reach differences would require drafting a bike frame. I compared two bikes (Spec Dolce and Secteur) simply by viewing the geo charts. Even comparing the same frame sizes, (54) reach was shorter by about 1cm on the WSD bike after compensating for STA differences.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I meant calculating reach between differently-sized frames of the same model in the sub 50cm range.

Since the region of top tube behind the bottom bracket is not part of reach, one needs to figure out how long it is and correct. I'm a visual person, so for me, this is best done by drawing a picture.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> *I meant calculating reach between differently-sized frames *of the same model in the sub 50cm range.
> 
> Since the region of top tube behind the bottom bracket is not part of reach, one needs to figure out how long it is and correct. I'm a visual person, so for me, this is best done by drawing a picture.


Point taken about your preference, but the fact remains that differences in reach can be easily calculated by compensating 1 cm for every degree of STA change and about 3mm's for every degree of HTA change. That method takes setback differences into account. 

And even with a draft, it still has to come down to numbers. Bike fit boils down to numbers.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

Ok so i should not worry about it being a womens bike then.

Im 5'5" about 190-200lbs I have a 30" inseam and a 30" weist. Im not a small guy I'm built like a stump so maybe a womens bike with mens handle bars ?

Do you know of a brand bike that you would recomend?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> Ok so i should not worry about it being a womens bike then.
> 
> Im 5'5" about 190-200lbs I have a 30" inseam and a 30" weist. Im not a small guy I'm built like a stump so maybe a womens bike with mens handle bars ?
> 
> Do you know of a brand bike that you would recomend?


If your proportions require it, don't fret over riding a women's bike. But at your height and given your inseam (assuming it's your _cycling_ inseam), I'm wondering why you were sized to smaller frame sizes. 

Don't misunderstand, I'm not discounting the fitters recommendation because s/he worked with you and saw you on the bikes, but unless there's some flexibility or other anatomical issue, someone of your proportions would usually be sized to a 49-52cm in some Specialized models. 

As far as model recommendations, if you're interested in staying with Specialized, check out the Allez, Secteur and Dolce (women's equivalent of the Secteur).


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

I dont know what you mean by cycling inseam.

I wear 30" 30" pants and 29" 30" fit better. The bike he had me on was laying the boys on the bar if you know what I mean. He said cycling pants would fix that but I dont want my stuff all tucked up and tight so he sugested a shorter bike. The 47 had me parting my stuff to one side.

I hope this wasnt to graphic. I'm trying to be profesional about this and I really do value your advise.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Get over the thing about the cycling shorts. Wear baggy shorts over them if it's a modesty thing.

Cycling inseam is something figured out with a book, a friend you're very comfortable around, and a measuring tape. Here's a link...

Bike Fit Guide: Save 35-70% at Sierra Trading Post.

I think it's still fairly vague. My "crotch" is an entire region - what am I snugging to? I suspect they mean pubic bone.

To be honest, I never bothered to find out. I think that the most important part of fit to get right is reach, and I hop on the bike and use myself as the measuring stick for that.

You should be comfortable riding on the hoods on a road bike. If you feel like you have to stretch to reach them, the bike's too big. If you feel cramped, the bike's too small. Some adjustments can be made - like a shorter stem, moving up and down the spacer stack, etc. But it's best if the frame size is right to start with.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

YoungBuck said:


> I dont know what you mean by cycling inseam.
> 
> I wear 30" 30" pants and 29" 30" fit better. The bike he had me on was laying the boys on the bar if you know what I mean. He said cycling pants would fix that but I dont want my stuff all tucked up and tight so he sugested a shorter bike. The 47 had me parting my stuff to one side.
> 
> I hope this wasnt to graphic. I'm trying to be profesional about this and I really do value your advise.


The link Andrew provided will guide you through the process to measure for cycling inseam, but 1) I think you're placing too much importance on stand over and 2) the fitter is letting you do so by (indirectly) dictating frame size. 

I'm not suggesting that you _disregard_ stand over, but the prirorities should be with getting a riders reach and saddle to bar drop right with minimal compromises to stem length/ angle/ spacers. Once that's accomplished, a rider of fairly normal proportions (which I suspect you are) will have adaquate standover with appropriate shoes on, and generally speaking, compact frames (sloping top tubes) have more stand over for their given size than traditional geo bikes would. 

Also, keep in mind that pedal stack height can add about 1.5cm's to your cycling inseam, so (in Specialized) I think a bike in the 49-52cm range would be a starting point.

Here's what I suggest. Follow the guide to measure your cycling inseam making sure to apply 'saddle pressure' when measuring (repeat the process a couple of times to ensure accuracy), then post an update here. Using that info, we'll try to provide you with frame sizes in the Specialized models of interest that should be close to meeting your (sizing) requirements.


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## YoungBuck (Jul 26, 2011)

Verry good info thank you.


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