# Hydraulic Disc Brakes for Gravel Bike



## Lookbiker (Sep 2, 2006)

Hi everyone,
Any firsthand experience with the SRAM Hydro R and Shimano systems? 
Thanks.


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## pwork (Feb 25, 2009)

My personal bike has Sram and have close to 4k miles on it, but have spent a couple hundred miles on Shimano systems and setup several of both. Both have about the same power and modulation, though I'd give a slight edge to Shimano for overall feel when braking. I have small hands, when braking the shimano brakes feels much better from the top, but Sram is easier to reach from there (due to easy reach adjustment). Seems like the SRAM brake lever pivot should be higher. Both feel about the same from the drops. I don't care for the feel or action of shimano mech shifting nor their shifter ergonomics, but obviously work well. The new Sram CX/22 shifters (including rival) action is much better than their legacy 10sp systems (which I liked) IMO. Setup on both are easy (including internal routing) if you have experience with hydro systems, take your time and think about what you are doing and why. Bottom line is both are great systems, pick the one that suites your ergonomic preferences best.


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## Lookbiker (Sep 2, 2006)

Thank you. Just the overview I needed.


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## allenpg (Sep 13, 2006)

I have the Shimano Di2 hydraulic system on my CX bike and love it. The only thing I've had to do is overfill the front caliper to make the front firmer than the rear. I tried the TRP HY/RD brakes before and I'm glad I went with regular hydraulic.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

allenpg said:


> I have the Shimano Di2 hydraulic system on my CX bike and love it. The only thing I've had to do is overfill the front caliper to make the front firmer than the rear. I tried the TRP HY/RD brakes before and I'm glad I went with regular hydraulic.


Ditto but on my gravel bike, it's awesome. I didn't overfill the caliper to get the firmness instead used a shim stack narrower than the rotor placed between the pads with the wheel off, squeezed the brake, to bring the pads in closer to the rotor - works great.


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## pwork (Feb 25, 2009)

Lookbiker said:


> Thank you. Just the overview I needed.


No worries. Also, to expand on the other comments above, I swapped over to discs many years ago and have tried/owned almost everything out there. IMO any cable brake<Shimano/Sram HYDRO.


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

allenpg said:


> I have the Shimano Di2 hydraulic system on my CX bike and love it. The only thing I've had to do is overfill the front caliper to make the front firmer than the rear.





Srode said:


> Ditto but on my gravel bike, it's awesome. I didn't overfill the caliper to get the firmness instead used a shim stack narrower than the rotor placed between the pads with the wheel off, squeezed the brake, to bring the pads in closer to the rotor - works great.


Check out my custom 3D printed bleed blocks made under size to over fill the system. Easier than shims.

Bleed Block-1mm (NN5BKSGNJ) by tlgpa
Bleed Block-.5mm (A9DAXVXWP) by tlgpa
Bleed Block-1.5mm (QKPE5M3E5) by tlgpa


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## wgscott (Jul 14, 2013)

I have the Shimano hydraulics on my gravel bike and am really pleased with them. I do find I go through pads fairly quickly and even have had to replace the rotors. The good news is they are very easy to maintain and even to bleed. I do find I need to keep the pistons clean to ensure they retract rapidly and fully. I ride a lot of steep hills, am too fat and borderline clinically paranoid about falling, so I am probably a worst case scenerio. It is kind of nice to be able to brake with one or two fingers.


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