# How long does it take to get used to the drops?



## mistrpeepers (Sep 9, 2012)

Hi all-

How long does it take to acclimate to comfortably riding in the drops?

I'm more used to MTB riding so upright obviously feels more natural to me. 
I've had my lbs make some modifications by swapping out the stem for something higher, but still can't ride long in the drops. 

Is this something that will just come over time?

Thanks all.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

Comes over time. There are a ton of different factors that we do not know about for you. Age, flexibility, build, fitness level are all big parts. Why can you not ride long in the drops? Some people need to build core strength to be able to hold themselves in that position. Others just cannot get used to the different position and relationship to the road. Others just are not flexible enough to hold the position comfortably, and need to work on that.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

For me, being able to ride comfortably in the drops long-term would defeat the purpose of having them. I set up my road bikes to make the brake hoods the most comfortable position at a typical effort level for me on that bike. The drops facilitate riding at higher efforts and descending in a tuck.

Different people have different setups they prefer, and some people do set up their bikes with the drops as the primary riding position. In this case, you'd probably want to jack up your bars a fair amount. I have my bar clamp (and therefore brake hoods) a little lower than the saddle. The drops are a lot lower. If I wanted to do drops-primary, I'd land my bar clamp and brake hoods a bit above the saddle so the drops landed where the brake hoods are now, just a little bit lower than the saddle.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> For me, being able to ride comfortably in the drops long-term would defeat the purpose of having them. I set up my road bikes to make the brake hoods the most comfortable position at a typical effort level for me on that bike. The drops facilitate riding at higher efforts and descending in a tuck.


^^^^^ This.

Most non-racers set up their bikes so that the hoods are the "default" and most comfortable position. Then use the drops as required in headwinds, at speed, and on descents.

As for switching from upright flat bars to drop bars (even riding just the hoods), although I had 4,000 miles on my legs when I made the switch, I still hadn't done any "core" work, and had to work on flexibility--both in the hamstrings and in my arthritic upper back. (I'm 55 now.)

It was about six weeks of daily cycling as I recall before I could ride a decent distance without feeling strain in my neck, shoulders, and upper back. Those muscles had never been used in that way before and needed some training.

Over the years since then, I've gone from a 9 cm +17° stem to a 12 cm +6° one, and lowered it on the steerer by 2 cm. My hoods now are lower than my drops were when I first made the switch. These days, if motivated (like a stiff headwind) I can ride the drops for several miles at a time.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mistrpeepers said:


> Hi all-
> 
> How long does it take to acclimate to comfortably riding in the drops?
> 
> ...


Even if we knew more about you, your cycling background, saddle time logged, fitness level/ flexibility, bike set up (among other factors), there are too many variables for us to be able to pin down a time frame of when you'll be able to ride in the drops.

As other have mentioned, building core strength and setting up saddle to bar drop to match your current flexibility (tweaking as you acclimate) has to play out, but even then (like many cyclists) you may end up having a preferred hand position other than the drops.

FWIW, while I agree that certain riding environments/ situations warrant the use of certain hand positions, I don't subscribe to reserving the drops _just_ for them. To me, setting up saddle to bar drop in that manner somewhat defeats the purpose of a drop bar. That being, to afford the rider many useable (keyword, _useable_) hand positions. I consider _useable_ as riding in the drops when cruising, offering another option. 

If someone can't relatively comfortably utilize a bar position, IMO fit isn't optimized for that rider. However, this philosophy doesn't disregard the need for a cyclist to build core strength and maintain good form, because they'll go hand in hand with proper fit.

I don't know what your saddle to bar drop is currently, but if the bars aren't at or above the saddle, I suggest getting your fitter to raise them, making them level. Doing so should get you in a good 'start' position while you work on core, flexibility and acclimation.

Here's a link to core exercises:
http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/abdominalcorestrength1/a/NewCore.htm


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## nolight (Oct 12, 2012)

When I switched to drop bar, the first place to ache when trying to bend low while riding for some time is the lower back. 

What exercise should I do to improve flexibility in this area? Or bike adjustment (although I think I need to work on my body first)?


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## RaptorTC (Jul 20, 2012)

When I first switched from the mountain bike to the road bike I couldn't even ride on the hoods without getting a sore back after 10 or so miles and I could only go down to the drops for short descents and such. Now, roughly 1,000 road miles later, I can do my whole ride on the hoods and go down into the drops for quite extended periods of times while pulling and riding into a headwind without any pain at all.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

nolight said:


> When I switched to drop bar, the first place to ache when trying to bend low while riding for some time is the lower back.
> 
> What exercise should I do to improve flexibility in this area? Or bike adjustment (although I think I need to work on my body first)?


Lower back pain is generally caused by excessive saddle to bar drop, so what I've posted above would likely apply to you as well. 

Not knowing more about you/ your cycling experiences, etc., standard advice is to have your fitter raise your bars 'some' and as you build base miles/ acclimate to road riding, lower them _slowly_. Assess each change as you log additional saddle time before making the next.

In conjunction, do some of the core exercises I linked to.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

brucew said:


> Most non-racers set up their bikes so that the hoods are the "default" and most comfortable position. Then use the drops as required in headwinds, at speed, and on descents.


Most racers do this too. I can get just as low on my hoods as I can on the drops. On the hoods, with fully bent elbows, my thighs hit my lower rib cage - the lowest I can get. Going to the drops doesn't (can't) get me any lower. Plus, on the hoods with bent elbows I'm the most aero I can be (without going to tri-geek bars) as my forearms are parallel to the ground and not almost vertical as they are on the drops. Tri-geek bars place the forearms parallel to the ground.

For me, drops are used for sprinting and descending steep hills.

World class cyclists Chris Boardman and Graeme Obree, both past holders of the world hour record and world & Olympic pursuit champs, had to employ the lowest position possible. They both did it by doing this -

1. Flatten the back and bend from the hip (not a roundy back bend).
2. Get down to the lowest possible position.
3. Tense all the core muscles.
4. Turn the highest gear possible up a very slight grade at maximum power, for about 10 seconds.
5. Repeat many times.

They've both written articles (and Graeme a book) that contain this info.

My Physiotherapist has me doing this 1x weekly as therapy for my lifetime of on-bike back-ache.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Mike T. said:


> I can get just as low on my hoods as I can on the drops. On the hoods, with fully bent elbows, my thighs hit my lower rib cage - the lowest I can get. Going to the drops doesn't (can't) get me any lower.


Yup. This is _one _of the reasons why I'm not an advocate of a large saddle to bar drop. If conditions warrant it and a cyclist wants to get lower, bending the arms gets them there. For more 'normal' riding conditions, revert to a more 'normal' bend. 

IMO/E this makes for a much more useable/ versatile set up.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> Yup. This is _one _of the reasons why I'm not an advocate of a large saddle to bar drop. If conditions warrant it and a cyclist wants to get lower, bending the arms gets them there. For more 'normal' riding conditions, revert to a more 'normal' bend.
> IMO/E this makes for a much more useable/ versatile set up.


Here's my saddle-to-bar drop and I'm a rickety ol' geezer of 64. It's 7cm I think. Doing the above drill for a couple of years plus some other core and flexibility exercises got me from an upturned 100mm stem to a level 130mm one -


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I'd have to recheck, but IIRC you have about a 1.5cm saddle to bar drop on me (~5.5cm's), and I run compact bars. Like you, my reach has extended over the years. I'd estimate in the range of ~1.5cm's. 

Beautiful bike BTW, but that lawn needs work!


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Mike T. said:


> Most racers do this too. I can get just as low on my hoods as I can on the drops. On the hoods, with fully bent elbows, my thighs hit my lower rib cage - the lowest I can get. Going to the drops doesn't (can't) get me any lower. Plus, on the hoods with bent elbows I'm the most aero I can be (without going to tri-geek bars) as my forearms are parallel to the ground and not almost vertical as they are on the drops. Tri-geek bars place the forearms parallel to the ground.


I'd noticed this too - that I push the least air if I'm tucked but using the hoods. I feel cramped in that position, and a bit more comfortable when I move my hands down to the drops and give myself a bit less bend in the elbow. Too bad my forearms now present a lot more area to the wind.

It has crossed my mind that I might get a bit more aero by moving the saddle forward some and opening up that leg/torso angle. And actually, I think I've ended up with a steeper setup on my track bike. Go figure.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

AndrwSwitch said:


> It has crossed my mind that I might get a bit more aero by moving the saddle forward some and opening up that leg/torso angle. And actually, I think I've ended up with a steeper setup on my track bike. Go figure.


Pretty much describes a TT/ tri set up...
View attachment 268288


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## slitespd (Nov 2, 2004)

I get dropped all of the time, so it's no big deal.
Didn't take all that many years to get over it!!


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

PJ352 said:


> Beautiful bike BTW, but that lawn needs work!


That pic was taken a year ago this past spring when the snow had just gone and the winter kill hadn't grown out. This fall we had a *whole new* sodded lawn laid so now we have lawn perfection


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I'd noticed this too - that I push the least air if I'm tucked but using the hoods. I feel cramped in that position, and a bit more comfortable when I move my hands down to the drops and give myself a bit less bend in the elbow. Too bad my forearms now present a lot more area to the wind.
> It has crossed my mind that I might get a bit more aero by moving the saddle forward some and opening up that leg/torso angle. And actually, I think I've ended up with a steeper setup on my track bike. Go figure.


When I'm as low as I can go on the hoods I can reach down to the drops and nothing changes except for my forearm angle. I can't get lower on the drops no matter how hard I try.

I had this frame designed with a 74 degree STA (my previous frame was 73) to get me a bit more forward. I don't have a set-back seatpost either. So for a "road" position (as different to a TT position) I'm about as far forward as I want to be.


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

mistrpeepers said:


> Hi all-
> 
> How long does it take to acclimate to comfortably riding in the drops?
> 
> ...


What is keeping you from riding in them? I come from Mtb and like the drops from bike control stand point, but I tend to only use when when I want max speed and need to cut air drag. On a climb I will be on the hoods as that seems to get me the most power output. If I am in the drops too long I feel like get a little seat discomfort. Moving to the hood reliefs some pressure and allows me to be more relaxed. Zero back pain in any position.


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

Mike T. said:


> Most racers do this too. I can get just as low on my hoods as I can on the drops. On the hoods, with fully bent elbows, my thighs hit my lower rib cage - the lowest I can get. Going to the drops doesn't (can't) get me any lower.


Can do this too, but I FEEL more aero in the drops. Pust in drops I can be low and extend my arms and actually rest on them being more one back end of the flat part on the drops. Or I can bend my elbows a bit and get a little lower with hands more forward part of the curved drop.


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## mistrpeepers (Sep 9, 2012)

Thanks PJ!


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n (Mar 3, 2012)

Only got my road bike in May this year. 

Prior to that, I have been on a hybrid with road tyres and I have found that on a flat route, when you are trying to maintain some speed, you tend to lower your head/body to stream line yourself, and having only a flat bar, I am not actually in the 'drops', but my body 'was' and it took awhile, mainly because I have not been in that position before as I have always been on a MTB, just like yourself. So the flexibility took sometime to get used to.

When I got my road bike, it was much more comfortable to put my hands in the drops, as it was a very natural position. Give it sometime and your body will stretch and 'fit' your bike ... :wink:


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## SFTifoso (Aug 17, 2011)

Stretch your hamstrings, gluteus, lower back, and groin muscle (inside of leg). And dont simply stretch before a ride. Stretch for a considerable amount of time, and do it daily. The point is to actually lengthen these muscles, not just "loosen them up". You also have to make sure you have enough setback on your saddle. The lower you ride, the more setback you will need. This is because your effective torso length increases as you get lower, and you need to counterbalance that extra weight, that you would otherwise be putting on your hands, with more saddle setback.

Also, if you have poor flexebility lowering your saddle will help you.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

SFTifoso said:


> The lower you ride, the more setback you will need. This is because your effective torso length increases as you get lower, and you need to counterbalance that extra weight, that you would otherwise be putting on your hands, with more saddle setback.


Not IME. As I 'get lower'/ more aero, my pelvic angle changes, but rear balance is unchanged, so no need for changes to saddle setback. 

Your method simply moves the rider back, unnecessarily changing reach and f/r weight distribution. 



SFTifoso said:


> Also, if you have poor flexebility lowering your saddle will help you.


I disagree. You don't compensate for lack of flexibility by lowering saddle height, which could cause knee issues. As I posted earlier, it's best to position the bars at a height that allows using all available hand positions. As fitness/ flexibility improve, slowly drop the bars.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I can see both changes for someone getting lower. To my mind, it depends on the changes, or not, in rider power output that go with the change in position.

I feel like the more power I'm developing, the further forward my center of mass needs to be for me to be well-balanced. This adjustment is nicknamed getting "on the rivet" in reference to the rivet that used to be on the front of a saddle. Basically, I'm rotating about the bottom bracket - my hips move forward, my hands move forward and down.

If I'm not developing more power and I move my torso lower, that also moves my center of mass forward. So adjusting the saddle back compensates for that.

I feel like it's a bit of an error to leave type of riding out of these discussions, because I think part of a good riding position is that it's well-balanced at a rider's typical power output. That balance point actually moves around a little, IME.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I think part of a good riding position is that it's well-balanced at a rider's typical power output. That balance point actually moves around a little, IME.


I agree with this absolutely. 

But I think it's a little ahead of what the OP's asking. He's not asking about optimizing position for power output. 

He's asking a beginner's question about about making the transition from an upright bike to a road bike.

In a year or two or three, he'll be back to ask about optimizing his position.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

brucew said:


> I agree with this absolutely.
> 
> But I think it's a little ahead of what the OP's asking. He's not asking about optimizing position for power output.
> 
> ...


In the context of this discussion, save for 'tweaks', I disagree on changes to saddle height, but agree that style (or type) of riding can affect bike fit.

As Andrew mentions, changing the _type_ of riding (my example: TT/ tri's) or even the specific situation (intervals/ sprints) _is_ (to varying degrees) going to affect bike set up and optimal f/r weight distribution (so IMO, good point). 

But as long as the topic stays with recreational riding (and the requisite compromises to fit that come with it), we don't change a fit parameter to meet one specific/ minor part of our cycling. Or more accurately, IMO we shouldn't.

One example I can think of would be a rider setting their bike up for TT/ tri's, but doing general recreational (fitness) type rides. Or maybe worse, changing setback whether riding on the hoods or in the drops, which was more my inference in my earlier response.


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