# Road Bike for Heavy Rider ($600 vs $900)



## matchlezz (May 27, 2011)

Warning: Absolute beginner here!

I'm looking to buy my first road bike. I'm 6'2 and ~220 pounds.

Initially, I had a budget of $600, and ended up liking the Jamis Ventura Sport: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/ventura/11_venturasport_spec.html

Then I ended up going to a different bike shop, and the guy there said that all road bikes that are <$1000 end up skimping on the frame and wheel quality, and for someone my size/weight, "they won't last more than a season". He suggested a lightly used bike that has a carbon/aluminum frame (forks are carbon), for $950. Its a Gary Fisher Arc Super: http://fisherbikes.com/bike/archivemodel/507

The main question I have is whether I absolutely need to spend more than I anticipated just to have a road bike that lasts (given my weight/height)?

If I go with the used Gary Fisher, is it a good deal for the ~900 budget range, or should I consider getting a new bike, such as the Trek 1.2?

Thanks!


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

matchlezz said:


> Warning: Absolute beginner here!
> 
> I'm looking to buy my first road bike. I'm 6'2 and ~220 pounds.
> 
> ...


Guy at Shop #2 is full of shite.

The Ventura Sport would be fine. 220 isn't that heavy. Also, it isn't so much the weight (within reason) but HOW you ride. Keep your butt off of the saddle when going over bumps/potholes. Don't jump small children laying across the road. Logical stuff.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

matchlezz said:


> Warning: Absolute beginner here!
> 
> I'm looking to buy my first road bike. I'm 6'2 and ~220 pounds.
> 
> ...


IMO you're getting some erroneous (at best) advice from that one bike shop. If you look at the specs of the framesets of many makes/ models in your price range, you'll see that the main differences are in groupsets and wheels, not frames or forks. Almost all are series 6000 (or similar) aluminum frmaes, with CF/ alu forks. Once you get above about $1,200, you get into some lighter (butted) alu frames, but that's about all until you get into CF/ steel territory.

The real irony is that while the LBS guy is bashing sub $1k frames, he's pushing you to go with a frame that has what's referred to as a materials mix - CF bonded to alu, which (while the more current models have faired better), have not had a stellar record of reliability. Additionally, you'd be buying used (thus, no warranty) so my advice is to steer clear of that particular GF bike (and preferably, that shop).

IMO your plan to stay within budget and buy new (preferably alu frame/ CF fork) is a fine one. You're actually not a 'heavy' rider, rather a _somewhat heavier _rider, so any framesets I've mentioned will easily accomodate your weight. More importantly, are the wheelsets and tires, so look for 32h rims (at least at the rear) and once you settle on a bike/ shop, consider asking if they'll swap out the OEM tires to 25c's.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

I might agree with the LBS about skimping on wheels, but not the frame. And at 220, as long as you're not curb hopping or regularly riding some pretty rough roads, the Jamis will last you much longer than one season. If you like it and it fits you well, buy it.


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## Hawkeye16 (Apr 29, 2011)

I weigh over 2 bills and a entry level Trek lasted me 7 years. I would go with the one inside your budget as well.


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## matchlezz (May 27, 2011)

It seems that the overwhelming consensus seems to be that I should stick with the original budget, and pick up the Jamis if I like it (which I do!)..

Thanks everyone for the quick replies! Once I get the bike, I look forward to utilizing the expertise on these forums to take care good care of it!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

matchlezz said:


> It seems that the overwhelming consensus seems to be that I should stick with the original budget, and pick up the Jamis if I like it (which I do!)..
> 
> Thanks everyone for the quick replies! Once I get the bike, I look forward to utilizing the expertise on these forums to take care good care of it!


If the Jamis suites your intended purposes, fits well and you enjoy riding it, by all means go for it. It's a solid bike from a solid company.

BUT.... we'll want to see pics once you get it (it's 'tradition' here). :yesnod:


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## kit352 (May 15, 2011)

id go for the jamis too. im 220 but dropping lbs everyday while i ride and i was concerned about that as well. My only difference is that i went to 4 or 5 really big lbs and they all said any bike they sells thats fits me size wise would take my weight as long as i dont go crazy with lightweight parts. a few even told me the more i spend the better chance i have of being to heavy for the bike. once i started getting into cf this and that and wheels with only a few spokes it began to be a concern.
Id say the 2nd lbs guy is just trying to make a buck and he should try to make it off someone else. they only bikes you should be worried about falling apart are the dept store bikes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

kit352 said:


> id go for the jamis too. im 220 but dropping lbs everyday while i ride and i was concerned about that as well. My only difference is that i went to 4 or 5 really big lbs and they all said any bike they sells thats fits me size wise would take my weight as long as i dont go crazy with lightweight parts. a few even told me the more i spend the better chance i have of being to heavy for the bike. once i started getting into cf this and that and wheels with only a few spokes it began to be a concern.
> Id say the 2nd lbs guy is just trying to make a buck and he should try to make it off someone else. they only bikes you should be worried about falling apart are the dept store bikes.


Those LBS's you speak of are spot on with what they offered. Lightweight components/ wheelsets generally come with weight restrictions. Specialized (as one example) places about a 225 lb. limit on many of its CF components and higher end CF framesets, and this is reflected in their warranty language (thus the use of the word 'limited').

Alu and steel framesets generally do not have weight limitations, although thin walled steel tubing such as True Temper S3 does.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Those LBS's you speak of are spot on with what they offered. Lightweight components/ wheelsets generally come with weight restrictions. *Specialized (as one example) places about a 225 lb. limit on many of its CF components and higher end CF framesets*, and this is reflected in their warranty language (thus the use of the word 'limited').
> 
> Alu and steel framesets generally do not have weight limitations, although thin walled steel tubing such as True Temper S3 does.


And yet TIME, which I would consider to be higher-end than Specialized, does not have a weight limit.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

PlatyPius said:


> And yet TIME, which I would consider to be higher-end than Specialized, does not have a weight limit.


I'd bet there are others as well, but I do think it's becoming more common place as the state of CF art evolves. Generally speaking (and over simplifying, to an extent) , less material = less weight = less durability, so (IMO) companies are juggling shaving grams with maintaining a strong warranty.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

matchlezz said:


> Then I ended up going to a different bike shop, and the guy there said that all road bikes that are <$1000 end up skimping on the frame and wheel quality, and for someone my size/weight, "they won't last more than a season".


Bike frames aren't rocket science and spending more money generally just nets less weight and better cosmetics. In extreme cases (40 pound gas-pipe tank vs. 20 pound road bike) it matters when you plan on carrying the bike up stairs or hoisting it atop the roof rack on your truck which is 7 feet off the ground. Otherwise it doesn't - a full pound isn't going to slow down a 200 pound guy by .5% even when he's climbing up a mountain.

Most bikes which aren't custom built to your specs with a wheel builder lovingly working his craft skimped on wheel quality but that's a labor problem that which can be fixed (the machines which built wheels often aren't configured to put enough tension in the wheels because that slows down the production rate, and they don't stress relieve which leads to spokes breaking due to fatigue).

If some one takes the time to make spoke tension uniform within one side of a wheel, bring the wheels up to sufficient tension, and stress relieve they should work great.


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## Guest (May 27, 2011)

I am 240 and have ridden Trek and Scott carbon frames for years. I ride hard but steady. I break chains and rims and spokes but never a good carbon frame.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> Guy at Shop #2 is full of shite.
> 
> The Ventura Sport would be fine. 220 isn't that heavy. Also, it isn't so much the weight (within reason) but HOW you ride. Keep your butt off of the saddle when going over bumps/potholes. Don't jump small children laying across the road. Logical stuff.


+1.... I'm your weight but an inch taller. The Ventura Sport should be fine. One person said that the frames will be lower level aluminum-6000 series. 6000 series is not lower level. The Cannondale CAAD frames are all 6000 series (6061 to be exact) and they are considered the one of the the best (if not the best) aluminum framsets out there. Components are what makes these bikes cost less. The frames are high quality (not the highest level but still high quality). Wheels could be an issue but nothing a little truing and regreasing of the hubs couldn't cure. Good luck.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> And yet TIME, which I would consider to be higher-end than Specialized, does not have a weight limit.


Easier not to claim a weight limit... It's called "Covering You A**". When issues arise,you never claimed it, therefore, you have less against you. Also, consider the fact that Specialized is a much larger company and can risk a max rider weight claim. Higher end bikes are sold in smaller volume. It doesn't mean that TIME bikes have no weight limit. TIME probably can't afford to make a claim like that being a smaller volume company.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

acanfield said:


> I am 240 and have ridden Trek and Scott carbon frames for years. I ride hard but steady. I break chains and rims and spokes but never a good carbon frame.


This bears repeating: how you ride (and whether you wreck) has the biggest effect on whether any frame or wheel will break. Big bumps, potholes, dropping off of curbs, handling damage, etc are what engineers call dynamic loads that can be 3x to 10x your body weight. If your riding cuts out the really high dynamic loads then having a larger body weight has less effect.

David


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## ohvrolla (Aug 2, 2009)

terbennett said:


> +1.... I'm your weight but an inch taller. The Ventura Sport should be fine. One person said that the frames will be lower level aluminum-6000 series. 6000 series is not lower level. The Cannondale CAAD frames are all 6000 series (6061 to be exact) and they are considered the one of the the best (if not the best) aluminum framsets out there. Components are what makes these bikes cost less. The frames are high quality (not the highest level but still high quality). Wheels could be an issue but nothing a little truing and regreasing of the hubs couldn't cure. Good luck.


I don't think PJ was bagging on 6000 series aluminum, just saying after a pricepoint you start getting into butted tubing and lighter frames from the same material. Nothing wrong with 6061 though.

As far as bikes under a $1000 not handling a rider weighing 220 lbs, I wouldn't walk into that shop again. Bike will probably be more durable. Wheels on less expensive bikes are generally going to be a higher spoke count loose ball hub wheel that just need to have the spoke tension looked at and hubs adjusted properly. Proper greasing and bearing adjustment and those cheapo wheels will probably last a long time. Cheaper bike will have Sora, no big deal. Nothing at all wrong with Sora other than the people who don't know what they're talking about complaining about Sora needing adjustment all the time. I've got 7 speed Sora on a bike with a compact crank where the chainrings are shimmed all to mighty to fight chain rub and it never misses a shift. I have 10 speed 105 on another bike and you're looking at ergonomic and weight difference when comparing the two. Both work great.

If the Jamis fits and feels good then go with it and welcome to cycling.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

ohvrolla said:


> I don't think PJ was bagging on 6000 series aluminum, just saying after a pricepoint you start getting into butted tubing and lighter frames from the same material. Nothing wrong with 6061 though.


You're correct. I never used the phrase 'lower level' nor implied 6000 series alu was in my post. Only that it's commonly used on entry level road bikes. Some proponents actually cite some benefits (in durability) over 7000 series. 


ohvrolla said:


> As far as bikes under a $1000 not handling a rider weighing 220 lbs, I wouldn't walk into that shop again. Bike will probably be more durable. Wheels on less expensive bikes are generally going to be a higher spoke count loose ball hub wheel that just need to have the spoke tension looked at and hubs adjusted properly. Proper greasing and bearing adjustment and those cheapo wheels will probably last a long time. Cheaper bike will have Sora, no big deal. Nothing at all wrong with Sora other than the people who don't know what they're talking about complaining about Sora needing adjustment all the time. I've got 7 speed Sora on a bike with a compact crank where the chainrings are shimmed all to mighty to fight chain rub and it never misses a shift. I have 10 speed 105 on another bike and you're looking at ergonomic and weight difference when comparing the two. Both work great.
> 
> If the Jamis fits and feels good then go with it and welcome to cycling.


Excellent points, and all worth mentioning.


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## tystevens (Jul 10, 2008)

Don't know if the OP has already made up his mind, but FWIW, I've put nearly 3500 miles on my '07 (purchased in June '08) Jamis Ventura Race, all at between 225 and 250 lbs. I've replaced a few things, but still using the stock wheel set, bars, stem, cranks, frame (obviously), and haven't had a problem. The only thing I've broken was teeth on the cassette -- not sure how, and the LBS and people on this forum had never seen it happen before. I replaced the cassette to an Ultegra something-27 more for the 27 tooth cog to help haul my large back-side up hills easier. Gone thru a chain and 2 sets of tires (the stockers were flat-machines, so they only stayed on about 300 miles). That's about it.


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## BeginnerCycling (Jun 4, 2011)

I agree with the others that the 2nd bike shop is full of baloney, and I wouldn't go back there again. The Jamis should be fine.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

I might go against the grain and half agree with the second shop. Yes, they're going to skimp on wheels at that price. Even at $2000 a lot of bikes come with some pretty crappy wheels! You can basically count on the wheels being sub par until you spend a LOT on a bike. 

Its not a big deal. a ~25 dollar retensioning can make a dramatic difference in durability and the feel of a wheelset. The big issue with lower end wheels is the build quality! Cheap components tend to hold up just fine when they're properly adjusted and set. 

Either bike will require some attention to the wheels, its something worth keeping in mind.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

TomH said:


> ...a ~25 dollar retensioning can make a dramatic difference in durability and the feel of a wheelset. The big issue with lower end wheels is the build quality!
> 
> Either bike will require some attention to the wheels, its something worth keeping in mind.


Given their (poor) track record, a $25 retensioning isn't apt to make a dramatic difference in the durability of those Bonty paired spoke wheels on the GF. But yes, until one gets into higher end bikes, wheelsets are the weaker link, thus upgraded relatively quickly by most.


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## coby111 (Jun 10, 2011)

Everyone keeps telling me that a CX bike would be good fora heavy rider. I'm going to be taking hta advice when I buy one.


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## GradyPhilpott (Jun 18, 2011)

I'm 61 and I'm not exactly new to bicycles, because I've been riding them off and on since I was about six years old. At points in my life, including adulthood, a bike has been my only transportation. 

Most of my life I've been considerably lighter than my current 230 lbs. give or take a few. Recently I decided that it was time for me to lose 50 lbs. or so, so that my weight doesn't start negatively influencing my health.

A few days ago, I went to the Trek Superstore here in ABQ, NM, and they have a very sharp staff there who helped me to understand the new technology regarding bicycles and helped me to find the right bike for me given my stated budget and my goals.

I really wasn't thinking that I'd walk out of the store with a new bicycle that day, but I did and I couldn't be happier. I already feel several years younger and frankly, I can hardly wait for the mornings so that I can ride in the cool NM air, although it can be pretty thick given the huge fires going on at this time.

Oh, what bike did I get? Well, it seems that the Trek 7100 is the perfect bike for me at this time and I got away for less than $500, including a good helmet and a slime treatment for the tires. "Goat heads" are hell in this part of the country.

At first, I thought I'd want one of those single-speed commuter bikes, but the very knowledgeable gentleman at the Trek store convinced me that in ABQ that would be a very bad idea and I'm glad I listened.

Well, I'd like to chat some more, but it's time for my afternoon ride. 

Nice to meet y'all!


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## statureman (Apr 20, 2011)

I'm Currently 290+ lbs and have put about 500 miles in the last few summers trying to rehab my body. From what research I have done You are not too heavy for most of the bikes in your range.


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## squiddy (Oct 30, 2011)

this is great advice..


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## teflondog (Aug 23, 2011)

I used to weigh 230 lbs and I never had any problems with bike frames. I rode steel, aluminum, and carbon fiber without being gentle on any of them. I did put more thought into the wheels though since I've been on some wheels that made my brake pads rub due to the flex. All my bikes now have Fulcrum Racing 7's as I've had really good luck with those wheels and they're inexpensive.


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## ctaborda (Nov 8, 2011)

A friend of mine had the same issue in his mind.. he wanted to ride to loose weight, but he couldn't cause in order to ride he was too heavy and had to loose weight.. Seller wanted to put him on a expensive bike he didn't need supposedtly cause of his weight... He's lost maybe 20-30lbs on a starter $299 bike from bikesdirect..


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## victorscp (Nov 8, 2011)

Oh man... I never thought of weight as an issue but im aroundmade me think twice about what I get lol 210 and it o


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## roland365 (Nov 17, 2011)

What if u weigh 280 should u get a fitness bike rather than a road bike....


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

roland365 said:


> What if u weigh 280 should u get a fitness bike rather than a road bike....


The_ type_ of bike doesn't dictate its strength or weight restrictions, the specific frame material and wheelset does. There are also weight restrictions on some CF components. 

As some examples... Specialized currently has a rider weight recommendation of about 240 lbs. for it's CF bikes. True Temper S3 (steel) tubing generally has a rider weight limit of 180 lbs., while some heavier gauge steel tubing has no restriction. Aluminum generally does not have such weight restrictions.

Re: wheelsets, for a rider in the weight range, I'd suggest a 36 spoke count laced to sturdy rims like Velocity's Deep V's and Shimano 105 hubs running a wider (~28c) tire.

For components, I'd stay with aluminum posts, stems and bars.


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## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

PJ352 said:


> The_ type_ of bike doesn't dictate its strength or weight restrictions, the specific frame material and wheelset does. There are also weight restrictions on some CF components.
> 
> As some examples... Specialized currently has a rider weight recommendation of about 240 lbs. for it's CF bikes. True Temper S3 (steel) tubing generally has a rider weight limit of 180 lbs., while some heavier gauge steel tubing has no restriction. Aluminum generally does not have such weight restrictions.
> 
> ...


+1... I am currently running 32 spoke f/r Velocity Deep Vs with Ultegra hubs on two of my bikes and 24f/32r Velocity Deep Vs w/ Velocity hubs on another. These wheels might be considered an overkill but there's no such thing as an overkill when you're over 200 lbs. I am amazed at how strong they really are and they can handle anything that you throw at them. 36 spokes would make this bulletproof wheel, bombproof. 

BTW, you can go 105 or Ultegra hubs on the build. Both are great and I just went Ultegra because it was just a little more than the 105 set up. Also, you can go with the set directly from Velocity with Velocity branded hubs. Those are actually custom built too and they come with a sticker on the inside of the rim with the build date and the builder's initials.


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## velocanman (Jul 15, 2011)

I currently weigh in at 240 but should be about 210. I have never had a problem with any aluminum or carbon frame. I've ridden Fuji, Trek, and Scott road and Trek and Niner MTBs.

I have, however, been heck on lightweight wheels. On wheelsets with 20 front and 24 rear spokes I routinely crack the aluminum rims. And this is with well tensioned wheels. Mavic Ksryiums and Reynolds carbon wheels have so fare survived.

Anyway, the moral of my story is stick with strong wheels with 28-32 spokes and they shouldn't fail. Don't worry about the frame but try not to get a tank!


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## SlowJoeCrow (Sep 3, 2009)

From my experience, buy the cheaper bike and invest in some better wheels. I'm 230 and the Jamis Satellite (basically the steel version of a Ventura) I started with came with flimsy wheels and I blew out drive side spokes in two rear wheels under warranty. I bought a set of Easton EA50s on sale and they have outlasted the Jamis (sold), a couple of century rides and some cyclocross, with one broken spoke that was effectively repaired.


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