# Chain lube



## horvatht (Feb 27, 2012)

I ride about 100 miles per week in Southern California. 
The weather is nice almost every day. 
My chain is a part of the bike that needs the most amount of Maintenance. How often should I oil my chain?


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## cydswipe (Mar 7, 2002)

That's entirely up to you. A clean chain is nice. I would hit it with a rag after it rains, to get road grime off. Otherwise, look into a Park Cyclone chain cleaner, some odorless Mineral Spirits, and the lube of your choice. The Mineral Spirits/Cyclone will clean the chain very well without having to take it off the bike. When it comes to lube, some folks use chainsaw oil, homemade brews and concoctions, or the stuff you buy at the bike shop. You use what you like.


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## lactic acidosis (Jul 24, 2006)

Regardless of the weather, I wipe my chain down after every ride and apply some Pro Link. I wipe the excess lube off and I'm ready to push off for the next ride. Some may call it excessive, but my drive train always looks fresh.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Wipe it after every ride. the forces of riding will cause lube to push out of the bearings. 

some of the teflon based stuff you need to put on every other ride or so. 

I've been using DuMonde Tech for a few years now and it tends to last longer than the teflon stuff i used to use.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

chain cleaners are a PITA. homebrew lube is a PITA. I don't use either.

just hold the chain using a rag and turn the crank several revolutions. do it again. the amount of crud on the rag should be noticeably less than the first time. if not, do it again.

when you've removed as much of the crud as possible, apply the lube (not oil) of your choice and turn the crank a few times.

repeat every 5 rides or so...if you ride is sloppy conditions, do it more often.


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## AlphaDogCycling (Sep 18, 2011)

Forget the chain cleaner, unless it rains / your chain gets really dirty.

My chain maintenance:
1). Wipe the chain down after every ride
2). Apply T-9 Boeshield (made by Boeing, speaks to the aerospace engineer in me) once a week. Let it sit on the chain for about 5 - 10 minutes / wipe the chain down

That's it. Unless your chain is really gunked-up, the above 2-step process should be sufficient.

The only other thing is check the derailleur pulleys / cogs / chainrings, and make sure they aren't gunked-up either. If so, clean them. Doesn't do any good if you clean / lupe your chain, and then other parts of the drive train contaminate your clean chain with grit.


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## Bizman (Apr 27, 2011)

I clean my chain every couple of rides with a rag which I have applied diesel fuel to. It cleans and lubes the chain, and it doesn't fly off. I always clean the chain after wet rides.


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## lucyfek (Sep 1, 2009)

100 miles is nothing for good lube, unless it's dusty or muddy where you rode. I look at the chain before the ride (or after if I feel like) and if I see buildup of crud I wipe it off (also pulleys, crank and cogs). Then I'd apply lube if the chain seem dry (tiny drop per each link junction). Spin it, wipe it, go (road bike is easy, 5 minutes is all that's needed). I use Road Rage (perfect name choice to get you in mood for racing) on my road bike - it does not require drying, stays wet (minimal friction, penetrates well), no residue (besides usual contaminant, easy to wipe off), lasts "forever" under usual circumstances.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Oxtox said:


> .. homebrew lube is a PITA...


Yeah...I don't get how that makes any sense to make home brew. I don't think too highly of myself but I do have some idea what my time is worth


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## horvatht (Feb 27, 2012)

Thanks 
good info


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## Andy2302 (Mar 23, 2012)

Yes, good info. The streets are sandy after the winter, the grit gets everywhere.


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## horvatht (Feb 27, 2012)

The sand is the big problem. 
I tried a dry lube product. It worked as far as no sand sticking. But I could hear my chain alittle and shifting was a little off. Now I'm using a carnauba synthetic , this leaves my chain dryer then wet lubes but still wet enough to lube all components. 
I have been doing a wipe down after every ride ( 30miles) Just wondering how often everybody else was addressing this issue.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*1/2 right*



Oxtox said:


> chain cleaners are a PITA. homebrew lube is a PITA. I don't use either.
> 
> just hold the chain using a rag and turn the crank several revolutions. do it again. the amount of crud on the rag should be noticeably less than the first time. if not, do it again.
> 
> ...


I agree that chain cleaner are more trouble than they are worth. I do not understand what is so PITA about homebrew. You taker a squirt bottle, dump 1/5 to 1/4 of oil in it and fill with ODS. Takes maybe 30 seconds. After that you use like any other wet lube. 

To the OP, I clean and lube every 150 miles if its dry


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

Don't just clean your chain, get the jockey wheels, cassette, and chaining rings too. you shouldn't need to do that as often though. Maybe every third lube or so unless you have visible crud build up. Also if you are getting a lot/frequent crud build up that might be a sign you are too heavy handed with the lube.


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## Andy2302 (Mar 23, 2012)

OK, bare with a newbie please. How do we clean in between the gears & tight spots?


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

locustfist said:


> Yeah...I don't get how that makes any sense to make home brew. I don't think too highly of myself but I do have some idea what my time is worth


Really? 5 minutes to mix 1 part oil w 3-4 parts mineral spirits = 1 quart of lube that lasts years. Given commerical brews cost $1-2/oz, spending 5 minutes to save $50 AND you reduce the amount of time that you might have to spend to go buy a 6 oz bottle of lube. 

Most people go buy the commercial stuff and that's fine. Your contribution to the economy is appreciated.


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## torch511 (Mar 4, 2012)

Standard lube - I wipe down and then apply some fresh lube (dry lube) after every ride. I have recently begun using the Graphite/wax method (described on other sites) on one of my bikes and so far it's been awesome.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Andy2302 said:


> OK, bare with a newbie please. How do we clean in between the gears & tight spots?


Take the wheel off

Spray with citrus degreaser. A bottle of Zep is like 3 bucks at Home Depot/Lowes. 10 bucks for bike shop equivalent.

Get a brush and go to work.

I remove the cassette every couple times I clean it to get in there real well.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

horvatht said:


> The sand is the big problem.
> I tried a dry lube product. It worked as far as no sand sticking. But I could hear my chain alittle and shifting was a little off. Now I'm using a carnauba synthetic , this leaves my chain dryer then wet lubes but still wet enough to lube all components.
> I have been doing a wipe down after every ride ( 30miles) Just wondering how often everybody else was addressing this issue.


Chain looks alright...that cassette is nasty


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

I use Chain-L. and got about 750 miles on it last summer. I almost never ride in the rain, but it does get wet occasionaly After applying it I wiped the outside of the chain thoroughly, then again every once in a while (every few 100 miles) and it stays clean and quiet. FWIW, but I'm a minimalist when it comes to cleaning and lubing and get plenty of wear and good shifting out of my chains.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Standard advice*



horvatht said:


> I ride about 100 miles per week in Southern California.
> The weather is nice almost every day.
> My chain is a part of the bike that needs the most amount of Maintenance. How often should I oil my chain?


Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. If there is gunk on the cogs, floss between them with a rag wet with OMS. 
2 – shift to the big ring and the smallest cog and drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chain rings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A bright shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise among commercial lubes. Other people have different opinions.


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## Moonnerd (Feb 18, 2012)

Does it matter whether you do this before or after you wash the bike? I washed my bike today, then lubed it... then had to wipe down parts of the bike again that got dirty again.

Is that normal, or is newly applied lube not removed by washing a bike?


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Wash then lube*



Moonnerd said:


> Does it matter whether you do this before or after you wash the bike? I washed my bike today, then lubed it... then had to wipe down parts of the bike again that got dirty again.
> 
> Is that normal, or is newly applied lube not removed by washing a bike?


Washing removes the lube. Wash first, then lube, then wipe.


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## Moonnerd (Feb 18, 2012)

Thanks for clarifying!


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## frankdatank1337 (Jul 25, 2010)

I lived and commuted in Long Beach for several years and I would recommend cleaning your drive-train every couple of rides, that sand and road grime is nasty stuff. The easiest way I learned to keep the chain clean without taking up too much time is:

-Every other ride use chain lube and wipe down the chain. 
-Once a week use a scrub brush to just knock some of the sand out of the cog. 
-Then once a month take everything apart and clean it well. 

As for lube, I use Rock N Roll's Extreme lube since I apply it often.


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## superjesus (Jul 26, 2010)

Andy2302 said:


> OK, bare with a newbie please. How do we clean in between the gears & tight spots?


The best tool I've found is strips cut from an old t shirt. Just cut an old t shirt or rag into 1/4" to 1/2" wide strips and use the strips like floss on your cassette and chainrings. Works wonders.

Btw, I use Rock n Roll Gold chain lube on my road bike. There are many serviceable lubes available.


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## ron.corleone (Nov 3, 2010)

base miles are built in feb and march not in june


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> Really? 5 minutes to mix 1 part oil w 3-4 parts mineral spirits = 1 quart of lube that lasts years. Given commerical brews cost $1-2/oz, spending 5 minutes to save $50 AND you reduce the amount of time that you might have to spend to go buy a 6 oz bottle of lube.
> Most people go buy the commercial stuff and that's fine. Your contribution to the economy is appreciated.


Yeah I mixed up a jar-full (1 pint? I litre? I dunno) a few years ago (pour one liquid into another, that's how much time it takes!!) and years later that jar is still part full. When I was in Walmart a decade or so ago I bought a litre of engine oil and a jug of mineral spirits so I guess wandering over to the auto and paint section should be added too 

And to the OP - backpedaling the chain through a WD-40 sprayed rag and flossing the cassette with t-shirt hems is as quick, low-tech, inexpensive and easy as it gets. Oh I should add efficient to that.


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## Digger51 (May 12, 2006)

I use Tri Flow. I lube it about every 100 miles. Check the large chainring teeth, the rear cassette the jockey wheels in the rear. About once a year I remove the chain and do a real heavy dity cleaning on everything (chain, cassette, derailer, and large chain rings) with a combination of degreaser and minreal spirits. If I had a ultrasonic bath I would throw the chain into it and get all of the fine grit off it, but I do not have one available to me anymore.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

Home Page Chain-L High Mileage Bicycle Chain Lubricant

Get some chain-l no. 5, wipe chain after each ride, and then relube every 1,000 to 1,500 miles whether it needs it or not. Drivetrain will be quieter and shift more smoothly than ever before and chain and cassette life will be greatly enhanced.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*protect it*



Moonnerd said:


> Does it matter whether you do this before or after you wash the bike? I washed my bike today, then lubed it... then had to wipe down parts of the bike again that got dirty again.
> 
> Is that normal, or is newly applied lube not removed by washing a bike?


I take a newspaper section and set it between the derailuer and the wheel. Helps keep splatter at bay


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Tri Flow*



Digger51 said:


> I use Tri Flow. I lube it about every 100 miles. Check the large chainring teeth, the rear cassette the jockey wheels in the rear. About once a year I remove the chain and do a real heavy dity cleaning on everything (chain, cassette, derailer, and large chain rings) with a combination of degreaser and minreal spirits. If I had a ultrasonic bath I would throw the chain into it and get all of the fine grit off it, but I do not have one available to me anymore.


Most people find Tri Flow to be a very good lube but a really bad dirt magnet, therefore it is not a popular chain lube.


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## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

locustfist said:


> Take the wheel off
> 
> Spray with citrus degreaser. A bottle of Zep is like 3 bucks at Home Depot/Lowes. 10 bucks for bike shop equivalent.
> 
> ...


+1

And get a Park cassette brush for a couple bucks. They last forever and really clean up your cassette in a jiffy. Buy the Zep citris degreaser by the gallon at Home Depot.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Moonnerd said:


> Does it matter whether you do this before or after you wash the bike? I washed my bike today, then lubed it... then had to wipe down parts of the bike again that got dirty again.
> 
> Is that normal, or is newly applied lube not removed by washing a bike?


Degrease > Wash > Lube


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## Blackbeerthepirate (Apr 26, 2011)

One bike I have, has a KMC chain with hollow plates and pins. It was always a pain to clean. What worked for me was, WD40, applied liberally to the slow spinning chain, while holding a toothbrush against it. Just like brushing your teeth, you get the top, bottom and both sides. Wipe the excess off with a rag, and let dry. Later I apply a chain wax (Clean Ride works best for me, it doesn't last as long as some others, but, seems to shed dirt, or actually sand much better).


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## cchase86 (Mar 9, 2010)

Taking the cassette off every few rides to wipe everything down is time well spent. It only takes a few minutes and will get everything clean like new.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Blue CheeseHead said:


> Really? 5 minutes to mix 1 part oil w 3-4 parts mineral spirits = 1 quart of lube that lasts years. Given commerical brews cost $1-2/oz, spending 5 minutes to save $50 AND you reduce the amount of time that you might have to spend to go buy a 6 oz bottle of lube.
> 
> Most people go buy the commercial stuff and that's fine. Your contribution to the economy is appreciated.


Is there a way to make your own Teflon based lube or one that polymerizes like DuMonde Tech?


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

Kerry Irons said:


> Most people find Tri Flow to be a very good lube but a really bad dirt magnet, therefore it is not a popular chain lube.


I've been using TF for years...it works pretty well with my preferred semi-frequent re-lubing schedule. don't really notice that it attracts crud any more than other lubes I've tried. but, for full disclosure, I don't ride in wet, sloppy conditions.

oh, and I love its odor...it smells like victory.


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## SlipKid727 (Sep 25, 2005)

dekindy said:


> Home Page Chain-L High Mileage Bicycle Chain Lubricant
> 
> Get some chain-l no. 5, wipe chain after each ride, and then relube every 1,000 to 1,500 miles whether it needs it or not. Drivetrain will be quieter and shift more smoothly than ever before and chain and cassette life will be greatly enhanced.


+1 on the Chain-L. Been using it for the last 3 years and it works great.
I go as long as 2,000 miles before reapplying.
Not a dirt magnet either.


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

dekindy said:


> Home Page Chain-L High Mileage Bicycle Chain Lubricant
> 
> Get some chain-l no. 5, wipe chain after each ride, and then relube every 1,000 to 1,500 miles whether it needs it or not. Drivetrain will be quieter and shift more smoothly than ever before and chain and cassette life will be greatly enhanced.


Chain-L might be a good lube, but the stuff is nasty. I bought a bottle on the advice of my LBS, but it splatters all over my rear wheel every time I use it. It takes me 30 minutes to clean the rear wheel and spokes the first time I ride after using Chain-L. It's consistency is very thick, so apparently it's hard to apply without using too much. I've gone back to using home brew -- which takes about 1 minute to mix up a batch that lasts for months if not years.


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## Ppopp (Jun 20, 2011)

lactic acidosis said:


> Regardless of the weather, I wipe my chain down after every ride and apply some Pro Link. I wipe the excess lube off and I'm ready to push off for the next ride. Some may call it excessive, but my drive train always looks fresh.


I use a similar protocol, but only every 3 rides or so. Wipe with a clean paper towel if it's really dirty, generous application of Pro Link, let it sit 5 mins, and then wipe off the extra lube (which removes most of the dirt). Keeps the chain quiet and healthy.


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## scorchedearth (Mar 22, 2012)

I use Triflow on my MTB and it works pretty well. You do get dirt on the chain while riding but how could you say you've gone trail riding without bringing some dirt back with you?


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Polymerization*



locustfist said:


> Is there a way to make your own Teflon based lube or one that polymerizes like DuMonde Tech?


Are you saying that DuMonde Tech claims their Teflon-based lube polymerizes on the chain? I find that HIGHLY unlikely and sure would want to see the chemistry they're claiming. First of all, Teflon is very inert and is already polymerized (POLYtetrafluoroethylene). So what else could possibly be in this lube that polymerizes at room temperature?

Anyhow, in answer to your question: no.


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## Bill2 (Oct 14, 2007)

Be careful with citrus cleaner- very strong stuff. We used to clean aircraft landing gear bearings with it till engineering came to visit and said the stuff was causing pitting (unless you absolutely get every spec of the cleaner off, it eats holes into steel).


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## slow.climber (Nov 25, 2010)

Same here.

Only ride 20-30 miles a day but it adds up.

My old routine was to wipe down after the ride, lube with Pro Link, and put 'er to sleep.

Only problem was the smell. Pro Link outgasses. We store our bikes in the sun room. Didn't like it smelling like oil.

New routine is to lube/wipe down the chain, jocky wheels, and chain rings before the ride.

Chains come off for cleaing every 2-3 weeks depending on road conditions. Cassette and chain rings get cleaned at the same time.

Might be excessive but shifting seems much smoother when we follow this routine.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Pro Link is what I've always used. Is it still as good as the other good ones? It sure isn't cheap!


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## CABGPatchKid (Dec 5, 2011)

shokhead said:


> Pro Link is what I've always used. Is it still as good as the other good ones? It sure isn't cheap!


I switched to Pro Link from Finish Line Ceramic wet.
I was averaging 2,000 per chain with Finish Line Ceramic, not bad, but Finish Line gets dirty so I decided to try Pro Link

I got almost 4,000 on my last chain using Pro Link.
My drive chain is quite, shifting is smooth, so I think Pro Link works just fine.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

I might try Park CL-1 Synthetic Blend Chain Lube but don't hear much about it.


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## aquabusa (Mar 23, 2012)

I was wondering if anyone tried automatic transmission fluid on a bike chain before. I've used it on my chainsaw in the winter to mimic the viscosity of bar and chain oil during the warm seasons. Chainsaws are really hard on the chains, so I figure it's got to work for a small road bike chain. 
I tried it today on my bike and I noticed the chain seemed much better. Normally, I'd use bar and chain oil, but I had a gallon of used synthetic ATF fluid sitting around so I thought I'd try it.


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## locustfist (Feb 21, 2009)

Kerry Irons said:


> Are you saying that DuMonde Tech claims their Teflon-based lube polymerizes on the chain? I find that HIGHLY unlikely and sure would want to see the chemistry they're claiming. First of all, Teflon is very inert and is already polymerized (POLYtetrafluoroethylene). So what else could possibly be in this lube that polymerizes at room temperature?
> 
> Anyhow, in answer to your question: no.


DuMonde Tech isn't teflon based from what I can tell...I don't know much about this stuff. From their website:

Liquid plastic through polymerization forms long-lasting coat on all chain surfaces.
“Riding in” forms an extremely low-friction plating.
Plating bonds to chain; can’t be washed off!
Components stay cleaner, last longer, run quieter.

I'm not one to believe all marketing speak (i'm in marketing myself) but i can speak from experience. 

I'm a little OCD about my drivetrain and A few years ago I went through every lube I could find on my mountain bike looking for what I thought was the best. No science...just riding. I tried white lightning (the worst), Finish Line, Chain-L, Phil Wood, generic teflon lube and dumonde tech. 

the finish line, chain-L, phil wood and others were good, but they all attracted dust and I had to clean and re-lube a bunch. The dumonde tech performed more or less the same for the first 2-3 hours of riding as the others...but it kept clean and quiet for closer to 10 or 12 hours.

It's a PTA to apply for the first time if another lube has been on there since it needs bare metal to do it's thing. When I buy new chains I soak and strip them before the first lube.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Suppost to keep that new chain coating on for as long as you can.


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## onefastbiker (Mar 23, 2012)

I spin fast but I get the most out of Dumonde Lite - about 450 -500 miles before I hear any squeaks and have to lube again. The manufacture recommends riding till the chain squeaks to avoid over-lubing and wasting oil. By comparison, I only got about 200 miles out of Boeshield T-9 - BIG difference here in Northern California


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Bike chain lube wax is not a lubricant, it's wax, and such it won't protect your chain from wear or rust. And there are many brands of wax lubes on the market, so make sure you check the ingredients.

Stick with real lube, especially those with Teflon in it. Finish Line Dry Teflon Plus, Chain L, Pro Gold, Rock and Roll, and Tri Flow, and maybe a few others I can't remember, but those can be found at any LBS (depending on what they carry) except for Chain L.

I too use to live in California and tried all various forms of lube and wax based lubes only last about 65 to 75 miles before the chain starts making noise, and noise equals wear. So on long rides I had to carry a bottle of lube with me so I could relube my chain mid ride! Then I found out the wax crap wasn't a lube at all and my chains would rust if exposed to water. I switched to teflon based lubes and no more problems. I favor Tri Flow, Finish Line Teflon Dry Plus, and Chain L, for no reason other then the first two I can find anywhere, and the last one seems to be extremely good but I'm still testing it. 

Also you need to clean your chain no matter what anyone else says unless your using Chain L then follow their instructions. However you don't need to get radical with the chain and remove and put in a bottle of solvent and shake blah blah blah! I use a simple Finish Line Chain Cleaning machine and it works great. I wipe down my chains after every ride, then every weekend I clean and relube the chain except for the Chain L chains. It may be a slight overkill but dirt will ruin a chain. Make sure when you clean the chain you let it dry for a few hours then apply the lube and let it dry for at least 12 hours, some bottles say 4 but if it's still wet to the touch then you need to wait longer, I wait 12 which is overnight to make sure the internals are dry too.

Chain L is a special critter, but it's sort of expensive and can only be purchased over the internet web site for them. They recommend you only need to clean the chain about every 900 miles but wipe the chain down after every ride. I wipe after every ride like I do using other lubes, but I clean the chain after 500 instead of 900 that Chain L recommends. Something about claims of long lube life makes me shudder.

Actually home brews can work, problem is finding the right home brew that actually works and not some BS that claims it does. Tri Flow is cheap to buy, and most bike shops use it, so if price is a concern and so is the quality and hassle of storing it then just get Tri Flow. I think that the Finish Line is a tad better? But not by much. I find it interesting that all my bike shops use Tri Flow but none of them sell it, must be a profit thing. 

I typically get an average of 15,000 miles out of chains, when I was using wax based crap I got an average of 6,000 miles, something is wrong with wax.


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## nelliott500 (Apr 16, 2012)

This thread has been very enlightening. I've been using White Lightning chain wax since I bought my bike just based on its popularity and the fact that it's supposed to work well in dry conditions. I didn't realize that it's not very good.

I put 40-50 miles on my bike a week so I think I'm going to step up to Chain L. It's only $12 on their site for a full bottle and $4 for their 1oz sample. I'll give the sample a shot and see what happens. Just ordered a Finish Line chain cleaner from Amazon as well.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

nelliott500 said:


> This thread has been very enlightening. I've been using White Lightning chain wax since I bought my bike just based on its popularity and the fact that it's supposed to work well in dry conditions. I didn't realize that it's not very good.
> 
> I put 40-50 miles on my bike a week so I think I'm going to step up to Chain L. It's only $12 on their site for a full bottle and $4 for their 1oz sample. I'll give the sample a shot and see what happens. Just ordered a Finish Line chain cleaner from Amazon as well.


Make sure you follow Chain L's instructions to the letter, it works best with new chains.

I use to clean my chain by removing it and swagging it around in a solvent basin I have, but then I read that it's very possible that you can over clean a chain by stripping the oils out of the bushings which is very difficult to get back in. So now I use the Chain machine, and have been using that only for the last 4 years or so, and I can't tell any difference in chain life, but I can tell the difference in time spent cleaning a chain!!


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

I use Phils oil. I was a Chain L user untill I ran out then went with the Phils I had. Works very well. Follow the Chain L instructions. Thick wet lube is the best by far.


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## Matador-IV (Aug 2, 2010)

Chain-L

,


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

froze said:


> Bike chain lube wax is not a lubricant, it's wax, and such it won't protect your chain from wear or rust. And there are many brands of wax lubes on the market, so make sure you check the ingredients.
> 
> Stick with real lube, especially those with Teflon in it. Finish Line Dry Teflon Plus, Chain L, Pro Gold, Rock and Roll, and Tri Flow, and maybe a few others I can't remember, but those can be found at any LBS (depending on what they carry) except for Chain L.
> 
> ...


I have to admit that 15,000 miles out of chains seems far fetched.


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## nelliott500 (Apr 16, 2012)

froze said:


> Make sure you follow Chain L's instructions to the letter, it works best with new chains.
> 
> I use to clean my chain by removing it and swagging it around in a solvent basin I have, but then I read that it's very possible that you can over clean a chain by stripping the oils out of the bushings which is very difficult to get back in. So now I use the Chain machine, and have been using that only for the last 4 years or so, and I can't tell any difference in chain life, but I can tell the difference in time spent cleaning a chain!!


Thanks for the tips. My chain was just replaced not too long ago so I'll just make sure I give it a thorough cleaning before hitting it with Chain-L.


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## askmass (Sep 28, 2009)

Another Dumonde fan here.

You apply it to a clean chain just before riding, and the bonding takes place during the ride's friction/heat according to them.

It is more a ceramic material, from my understanding.

The stuff has a most unique smell, one that some people seem to really like.

I get at least 3-400 miles between lubes with Dumonde, and the chain stays clean, silent and crisp with just a post ride blast of air and wipe down.

I don't miss any of the other commercial ones, nor (better IMO) home brews at all.

Great product, a real time saver, if you apply and use it it correctly.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

shokhead said:


> I have to admit that 15,000 miles out of chains seems far fetched.


Yup, I lied, it's far fetched, it can never happen. I also have a bike that has over 150,000 miles, actually closer to 165K with the original components, but that's a lie too, no body can pedal that much on one bike with the same components in 25 years. Just remember, everything I say is a lie.


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## marckap (Apr 12, 2008)

rock & roll gold lube cleans and lubes at the same time.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

froze said:


> Yup, I lied, it's far fetched, it can never happen. I also have a bike that has over 150,000 miles, actually closer to 165K with the original components, but that's a lie too, no body can pedal that much on one bike with the same components in 25 years. Just remember, everything I say is a lie.


Got it.


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## ksm279 (Dec 23, 2007)

DaveG said:


> I agree that chain cleaner are more trouble than they are worth. I do not understand what is so PITA about homebrew. You taker a squirt bottle, dump 1/5 to 1/4 of oil in it and fill with ODS. Takes maybe 30 seconds. After that you use like any other wet lube.
> 
> To the OP, I clean and lube every 150 miles if its dry



I agree, I make homebrew once a year in a 1 liter spray bottle. 1 part 5w30 to 3 parts OMS's and i'm set. Spay down the chain every 100-150 miles or so.... let it sit overnight after lubing just to let the mineral spirits evaporate and clean the chain with a wipe before the next ride. Best part about it is that it only costs $10 and a can of OMS lasts for years.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

froze said:


> Yup, I lied, it's far fetched, it can never happen. I also have a bike that has over 150,000 miles, actually closer to 165K with the original components, but that's a lie too, no body can pedal that much on one bike with the same components in 25 years. Just remember, everything I say is a lie.


Don't get your undies in your crack, I just said I find it far fetched, you added the lie part. If you say it's true then it is. I still find it hard to belive.


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

ksm279 said:


> I agree, I make homebrew once a year in a 1 liter spray bottle. 1 part 5w30 to 3 parts OMS's and i'm set. Spay down the chain every 100-150 miles or so.... let it sit overnight after lubing just to let the mineral spirits evaporate and clean the chain with a wipe before the next ride. Best part about it is that it only costs $10 and a can of OMS lasts for years.


I'm currently trying OMS with Mobile 1. Put it in a chain cleaner, run it through, wipe it off. Cleans and lubricates in one step. Seems to be working well so far.

Finish Line lubes can be found under the Du Pont brand for much less. Their dry lube is pictured below but I've found their wet lube as well. Note that the Du Pont version still has Finish Line's info on the back label and the phone number is the same.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

ddimick said:


> I'm currently trying OMS with Mobile 1.


I've been using this combo (mixed 50/50) for more years than I remember (10? 15?) and it's perfect. I'm still on my original litre container of each (cost - maybe $10 total).

I clean the chain by back-pedaling thru a WD-40 sprayed rag, apply one drop per roller/plates, let evaporate overnight, back-pedal thru a clean rag and then back-pedal thru a WD-40 sprayed rag to get as much off the outside of the chain as possible. Long-lasting with zero negatives. One of my chains went 2480 miles in the past year and I can't measure any wear.


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## nelliott500 (Apr 16, 2012)

I'm really looking forward to the Chain-L showing up. I think this thread has made me more aware of some chain noise.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

shokhead said:


> Don't get your undies in your crack, I just said I find it far fetched, you added the lie part. If you say it's true then it is. I still find it hard to belive.


My undies are only in my crack when I ride a bike with the kids. 

One thing I forgot to mention, riding style has a lot to do with chain life. I know an LBS owner who totally understands that concept and himself has about the same chain life I do.


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

Mike T. said:


> I've been using this combo (mixed 50/50) for more years than I remember (10? 15?) and it's perfect. I'm still on my original litre container of each (cost - maybe $10 total).
> 
> I clean the chain by back-pedaling thru a WD-40 sprayed rag, apply one drop per roller/plates, let evaporate overnight, back-pedal thru a clean rag and then back-pedal thru a WD-40 sprayed rag to get as much off the outside of the chain as possible. Long-lasting with zero negatives. One of my chains went 2480 miles in the past year and I can't measure any wear.


Why the WD-40? I was assuming the OMS would be a sufficient degreaser for cleaning, but am still learning.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

WD40 is an excellent way to clean the chain, but you have to wait for it evaporate before you can apply your favorite lube. But it's an awful lubricant because it's not a lubricant. Do some web searching in regards to WD40 being used on bicycle chains and you'll see.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

ddimick said:


> Why the WD-40? I was assuming the OMS would be a sufficient degreaser for cleaning, but am still learning.


I use WD as it's a great cleaner. Maybe the OMS in the Homebrew would do just as fine a job but I've always used the WD. Hmmm, maybe I'll try just using the OMS in my Homebrew. It's worth the test.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*Wd-40*



Mike T. said:


> I use WD as it's a great cleaner. Maybe the OMS in the Homebrew would do just as fine a job but I've always used the WD. Hmmm, maybe I'll try just using the OMS in my Homebrew. It's worth the test.


I thought (but not positive) that the thinner in WD-40 was kerosene. I am not sure that would be any better or worse than OMS as a cleaner but it probably smells worse


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

froze said:


> WD40 is an excellent way to clean the chain, but you have to wait for it evaporate before you can apply your favorite lube. But it's an awful lubricant because it's not a lubricant. Do some web searching in regards to WD40 being used on bicycle chains and you'll see.


Your claim that it's not a lube is just not true is it? It's marketed as a lube and it WILL stop a squeak so therefore it's a lube. Even plain water will stop a squeak so it's a lube too, but just like WD-40, not the best lube for certain applications. It's called "horses for courses" - choose wisely.

By doing a simple home experiment, and one you obviously haven't done, I proved years ago that WD-40 was a lube and quite a good one too. I buy it by the gallon so I poured some of it into a cup and left it on my workbench so that the thinner/carrier could evaporate. My cup has been sitting on my workbench for maybe 10 years even though the thinner evaporated years go.

What remains is a wonderful beige/brown thick gooey fluid that forms a lovely oily film between finger & thumb. Do what I did - put drops of various oils on an inclined mirror and see how fast they run off. This gives some indication of relative viscosity. WD has a similar viscosity to other normal oils. Feel its oiliness on said mirror.

I use this evaporated WD-40 in a small dropper oil can. It works wonderfully at lubing small things.

So don't tell me it isn't a lube. It i*s* a lube. It's just that in its original marketed state, it's a thin lube and it's marketed as a thin lube for general purpose home lubing jobs.. It's not meant as gear oil for truck differentials or turbocharger bearings or even the best lube for bike chains. And I'm sure WD-40 would agree with me.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

DaveG said:


> I thought (but not positive) that the thinner in WD-40 was kerosene. I am not sure that would be any better or worse than OMS as a cleaner but it probably smells worse


Their MSDS sheets don't give me an indication as to what the thinner is. "Aliphatic Hydrocarbon" might mean something to some propeller-head but not to me.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*proof?*



Mike T. said:


> Your claim that it's not a lube is just not true is it? It's marketed as a lube and it WILL stop a squeak so therefore it's a lube. Even plain water will stop a squeak so it's a lube too, but just like WD-40, not the best lube for certain applications. It's called "horses for courses" - choose wisely.
> 
> By doing a simple home experiment, and one you obviously haven't done, I proved years ago that WD-40 was a lube and quite a good one too. I buy it by the gallon so I poured some of it into a cup and left it on my workbench so that the thinner/carrier could evaporate. My cup has been sitting on my workbench for maybe 10 years even though the thinner evaporated years go.
> 
> ...


A 10 year WD-40 experiment? Mike, I think you need to get out more


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

DaveG said:


> A 10 year WD-40 experiment? Mike, I think you need to get out more


Yeah I watched the cup the whole time. If I did it over I'd move the cup into the bathroom.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Mike T. said:


> Your claim that it's not a lube is just not true is it? It's marketed as a lube and it WILL stop a squeak so therefore it's a lube. Even plain water will stop a squeak so it's a lube too, but just like WD-40, not the best lube for certain applications. It's called "horses for courses" - choose wisely.
> 
> By doing a simple home experiment, and one you obviously haven't done, I proved years ago that WD-40 was a lube and quite a good one too. I buy it by the gallon so I poured some of it into a cup and left it on my workbench so that the thinner/carrier could evaporate. My cup has been sitting on my workbench for maybe 10 years even though the thinner evaporated years go.
> 
> ...


It's not wonderfull at lubing small things like a bike chain.
Why WD-40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain - Bicycle Tutor Video


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

shokhead said:


> It's not wonderfull at lubing small things like a bike chain.


You must have missed the part where I wrote "It's not meant as gear oil for truck differentials or turbocharger bearings or even the best lube for bike chains".


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## tpgrole (Aug 20, 2009)

Why WD-40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain - Bicycle Tutor Video...

I wouldn't say the author of this article is an expert. To quote the article, " spraying this stuff on your chain is worse than using no lubricant at all!"

I'm no lube expert but having the small amount of oils left behind by using WD-40 certainly seems better than nothing.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

There isn't any small small amount of oils left behind by using WD-40. That's the point.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Chain Maintenance


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## tpgrole (Aug 20, 2009)

shokhead said:


> There isn't any small small amount of oils left behind by using WD-40. That's the point.


Did you read MikeT's 10 year experiment? His experiment is line with my own findings. I've used WD-40 on numerous things and it does in fact leave behind trace amounts of an oily substance.


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## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

shokhead said:


> There isn't any small small amount of oils left behind by using WD-40. That's the point.


Just try this - get a mirror. Place one drop of water and one drop of WD-40 on it. Place a drop of engine oil too as a constant. Wait a while - let's say a few days. Now see what's left - water nothing, engine oil - lots of lube, WD-40 - some lube. This will prove your "finding" of "There isn't any small small amount of oils left behind by using WD-40" is not true.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

I guess some of us will use it on our bikes and some of us won't.


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

shokhead said:


> I guess some of us will use it on our bikes and some of us won't.


No one is suggesting that WD-40 should be used as a bicycle chain lubricant. Even my question was about using WD-40 as a cleaner/degreaser.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

It would be far better to use motor oil then WD40 to lube a chain. WD40 was conceived as a moisture displacer and to prevent rust, not meant to be a lube, it does leave a fine film of oil but that oil seems to dry up after about 12 hours. I've sprayed chains with the stuff to clean the chains and the next day touch the chain and it's dry, no oily residue on my fingers, however sprayed onto paper and it will leave an oily stain. And the protection from the oil is so light, stated as a very fine oil that it offers no protection for a chain.

I've used it to loosen up stiff rusty links on kids bikes, so it works great for a lot of things, just don't use it to oil your chain, it was never intended to be used in that manner, but rather leave a really fine oily residue to protect metal from water. So the way I worded it has not being an oil was wrong, but it's not an oil in the way that you and I would use it.

But it works great at removing crime and old oil off chains. You can can go to You Tube and they got some videos on how that's done. This video shows 3 different cleaning methods, but the one I use is 7 minutes into the video and its the one they recommend: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMGxiLc8jHE If I rode the bike in rain then I fill the chain cleaning machine with WD40 instead of solvent to displace any water and protect against rust, then just like with solvent I wipe the chain down wait 12 hours for it to dry unlike the video shows, then relube and wait 12 hours for that to dry.

Not saying my way is the best and only way, just saying that's how I do it and it works for me.


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## Pieter (Oct 17, 2005)

Mike T. said:


> Their MSDS sheets don't give me an indication as to what the thinner is. "Aliphatic Hydrocarbon" might mean something to some propeller-head but not to me.



"Aliphatic Hydrocarbon" could mean anything from methane upwards in terms of weight, boiling point, etc. Probably a mixed bag including mostly kerosene-type components....


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

ddimick said:


> No one is suggesting that WD-40 should be used as a bicycle chain lubricant. Even my question was about using WD-40 as a cleaner/degreaser.


I said use, not lube.

Bicycle Chain Cleaning and Lubrication


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## ddimick (Aug 9, 2011)

shokhead said:


> I said use, not lube.
> 
> Bicycle Chain Cleaning and Lubrication


I'm really confused about what you're trying to get across. Since we have all said from the start that WD-40 can't be used to properly lubricate a bicycle chain, are you saying that WD-40 also can't be used as a cleaner/degreaser? Or are we all just being overly pedantic, as cyclists have a tendency to be from time to time.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Wouldn't use it on my bike for anything but I guess to degrease if you want. I might consider it for a once a year drgrease of the chain but haven't yet in 20 years. Hope that clears things up. I just like this thread for all info so everybody can decide what is best for them! Don'y you agree?


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

I never use WD-40 on any driveline components.

however, I have used it to remove small splatters of stubborn road grime and tar from painted surfaces.


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## Blackbeerthepirate (Apr 26, 2011)

I'd rather clean with a light weight lubricant, than strip all the lubrication away and hope to get everything lubed up again. Some of those degreasers can be real tough on metal long term.


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

Blackbeerthepirate said:


> I'd rather clean with a light weight lubricant, than strip all the lubrication away and hope to get everything lubed up again. Some of those degreasers can be real tough on metal long term.


This is the debate I've been having with myself as well. That's why I've been using WD40 more and more to clean the chain. I just fill my chain cleaning machine with WD40 instead of solvent. The chain comes out looking just as clean as solvent, but it doesn't remove all the oil rooted inside the internal parts of the chain. It's the same reason why I haven't removed a chain and cleaned it in a solvent basin that I have, or others put it into a soda bottle with solvent and shake it, is due to the problem of removing all the oil even internally and the chain cleaning machine doesn't do that to that extreme. But a chain cleaning machine using solvent still has solvent dripping down into the internals stripping that lube off, whereas using WD40 cleans and puts fine layer of lube on the internals.

But keep in mind, the WD40 is too light and not enough protective film to protect the outside of the chain and the gears, teflon lube placed on the chain after the WD40 has dried adds that layer of protection.

At least that's what and how I hope it will work!!


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## Matador-IV (Aug 2, 2010)

I'm not keen on the idea of using a "degreaser" product on bike components. I do find acceptable using WD40 or mineral spirits to clean components, as they are fairly mild and contain some lubrication.

I have used both WD40 & MS. After 24hrs I follow up with Chain-L.......seems to work for me.


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## hummina shadeeba (Oct 15, 2009)

last I used olive oil and I've also tried coconut. Strangely my super expensive chain oil dries up in about 100 miles. Cocoa butter is a main ingredient in chocolate but considered on of the best organic mechanical lubes.


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## hummina shadeeba (Oct 15, 2009)

pro link has me sitting at the side of my bike for like 5 minutes every ride! The stuff doesnt stay on. And then the price is stupid. I imagine if I get some oil then add tons of alcohol I'll have the prolink secret formula.


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## Ppopp (Jun 20, 2011)

hummina shadeeba said:


> last I used olive oil and I've also tried coconut. Strangely my super expensive chain oil dries up in about 100 miles. Cocoa butter is a main ingredient in chocolate but considered on of the best organic mechanical lubes.


I like Body Shop brazil nut body butter on my legs after shaving. Maybe I should give it a try on my chain. Or better yet, ProLink on my legs!


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

hummina shadeeba said:


> pro link has me sitting at the side of my bike for like 5 minutes every ride! The stuff doesnt stay on. And then the price is stupid. I imagine if I get some oil then add tons of alcohol I'll have the prolink secret formula.


Doesn't need to stay on, you want it in. Your alwasy after you lube and let set run the chain thro a rag to wipe off the outside.


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## desertgeezer (Aug 28, 2011)

After every ride I wipe down the chain and then use the 'grunge brush' on it. The brush works very well as the chain passes between three tough brushes that removes all the grime that you pick up off the road. Great tool.

I also bought this chain cleaning device. It's green colored and you put a solvent into it. Then you place the chain in it and close the lid. The chain stays on the bike; you don't have to remove it. Then you rotate your pedals backward through the device where scrub brushes remove the road crap.

With regard to this device: DON'T FREAKIN' BUY IT. IT IS A FILTHY, CUMBERSOME, IMPOSSIBLE TO USE POS THAT I ENDED UP THROWING AWAY AFTER THE SECOND USE. And to top that off, it cost me $30. Worst piece of engineering I've ever seen.


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## shokhead (Dec 17, 2002)

Park Cyclone Chain Scrubber is simple to use.


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## Andrew L (Apr 20, 2011)

I'm glad to know I've mostly been doing the right thing. I just need to let it dry longer


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## froze (Sep 15, 2002)

desertgeezer said:


> I also bought this chain cleaning device. It's green colored and you put a solvent into it. Then you place the chain in it and close the lid. The chain stays on the bike; you don't have to remove it. Then you rotate your pedals backward through the device where scrub brushes remove the road crap.
> 
> With regard to this device: DON'T FREAKIN' BUY IT. IT IS A FILTHY, CUMBERSOME, IMPOSSIBLE TO USE POS THAT I ENDED UP THROWING AWAY AFTER THE SECOND USE. And to top that off, it cost me $30. Worst piece of engineering I've ever seen.


Which one did you buy? I have the Finish Line one and been using it for about 9 years at least once a week, except dead of winter when I don't ride. Anyway after 9 years it still works and it's not filthy, you do have to wash the brushes, duh! It cleans the chain really well, it works great, and it works as it should if you know how to use it.


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