# Torque setting for FSA headset compression plug



## gmecycling (Apr 16, 2015)

I'm in the process of putting together a 2014 Ridley Fenix, and have a question regarding torque settings for the compression plug. It's a FSA headset and the compression plug that came with the frame has no markings for torque. I've emailed Ridley but haven't heard anything from them. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

To avoid the wall of text below your answer is probably 8-9 newton meters.
But just in case...


Well I'm going to assume you know what you're doing, but that's not usually a good idea. I also don't know exactly what kind of plug it is, there's several styles.









Let's just go with it looks like this.

You remove the top cap and bolt, that leaves a bolt inside, two wedges and a sleeve. As you tighten the inner bolt, it will bring the two wedges closer together expanding the sleeve.

So you will start to expand the sleeve and test fit it in the steerer tube, get it so it's a snug fit, then push it in there. The torque value you're after here on this bolt now is 8 to 9 newton meters. Once that's done you can continue on with adding the stem, setting the bearing preload, and then centering and tightening the stem.

Maybe to elaborate on that last part a bit:

After you torque the inner plug into the steerer tube to 8 or 9 newton meters, you will slide the stem on fairly loosely. You will then make sure there is a gap between the top of that plug, which is now the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem. This gap needs to be at least 2mm usually, depends on the design of that top cap. If the stem top is flush with or just below the top of the steerer, you need to add a spacer on top of the stem to create a gap. Usually a 5mm spacer, no more. If anything more is needed the steerer gets cut or more spacers go under the stem.

Now once that's all arranged, with the bike on the ground, screw on that top cap you first took off, the FSA labeled one with it's bolt. Tighten that top cap a little bit and then hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. You will feel a wobble in the headset. Tighten the top cap a little more and do the front brake rocking thing again. Repeat just until the rocking is gone, tighen the top cap maybe 1/4 turn more and stop. 

Then you align the stem, meaning make the bars straight and perpendicular to the wheel and then you tighten the stem bolts. Alternate the stem bolts in tightening to their spec. Once the top is tight to spec, do the bottom. Once the bottom is at spec the top will be loose again. Make sure you go back and forth until you get a correct click on both. Then you're done.


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## milkbaby (Aug 14, 2009)

^Awesome explanation above!

One additional note, on a carbon steerer it's possible to overtighten and expand the plug so that it slightly bulges the steerer, and then that may cause the headset to come out of adjustment after you think it's OK because the stem later moves slightly due to the bulge. Just a tip in case you have the headset adjusted properly but then keep finding it goes out of adjustment for seemingly no reason.


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## gmecycling (Apr 16, 2015)

Guys,

Thanks for your responses. Much appreciated. Also, I probably should have mentioned that it is a carbon frame, but I'm guessing that the above posts had assumed that.


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## MMsRepBike (Apr 1, 2014)

Carbon steerers are the only place you'll find compression plugs.

Everything else uses what we call a star nut.


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