# New Ritchey Road Logic



## Smoothy

Ritchey Dave, can you share some of the spec on the 2012 production version of the Logic Road frame/fork? Geometry (including bb drop) for each size? Are the fork legs and/or steerer steel or carbon? BB shell format? Will Excel have them in July? 

The pics from NAHBS show a color that looks to be a charcoal. Is this the color for the production run coming?


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## Ritchey_Dave

The 2012 Ritchey Road Logic will share a lot of the same spec as the SwissCross that we've recently released: heat treated, triple-butted Ritchey Logic II tubing, standard english BB, forged and machined integrated head tube. They will come with a painted to match Ritchey Pro Logic road fork which is full carbon. The frame you saw at NAHBS is pretty much exactly what they'll look like. And yes, our buddies at Excel Sports will be carrying them. 

We're extremely excited about this frame, I've been testing one out for a few weeks and two words come to mind, buttery smooth.


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## Ritchey_Dave

Geometry for the new Ritchey Road Logic

Estimated first delivery is August


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## yashashana

Hi Dave, eagerly awaiting the re-release of the road logic. I bought my first one in 1997 and definitely regret selling it, but I was young and I needed the money.

Are there any more pictures of this frameset?

Thank you, Yash Katsumi.


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## Ritchey_Dave

No new pictures yet, but I'll make sure to post them as soon as I do.


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## yashashana

Thank you!

Also, is there a weight for the 51cm frameset?


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## OldSkoolFatGuy

Any pics yet?


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## framesti

is this made in US or other country, is it tig welded or fillet brazed?


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## Ritchey_Dave

yashashana said:


> Thank you!
> 
> Also, is there a weight for the 51cm frameset?


No weights yet, but you can count on them being slightly lighter than the SwissCross.


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## Ritchey_Dave

framesti said:


> is this made in US or other country, is it tig welded or fillet brazed?


Made in Taiwan by Tom's hand selected tig welders of choice.


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## Ritchey_Dave

*More on the Ritchey Road Logic Frame*

More on the Ritchey Road Logic frame!


























CELEBRATING 40 YEARS OF RITCHEY STEEL: Tom Ritchey built his first road frame 40 years ago and went on to bring numerous innovations to the craft. The 2012 Road Logic carries many of the subtleties and details gleaned from Tom’s vast experience with steel frames. 

A MODERN CLASSIC: Tom designed an all-new, heat-treated and triple-butted Ritchey Logic tubeset for the new Road Logic, featuring aggressively short butted sections optimized for TIG welding that save weight and improve ride quality. Ritchey’s proprietary forged and machined integrated head tube uses standard drop-in bearings and saves 80 grams over a standard head tube design. 

QUALITY STEEL WITH REAL-WORLD FEATURES: Frames are handmade in Asia by a frame builder qualified by Tom Ritchey himself. And with room for 700x28c tires and classic Ritchey geometry, the Road Logic is ideally suited for long, epic days in the saddle on roads that are not always paved and still nimble and stiff enough to take the county line sprint at the end of the day. 

SIZE: 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59cm
WEIGHT: 3.9lbs (55cm)
MSRP: $1299.99
ETA: Late August


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## junkcheck

Nothing larger then a 59?


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## Ritchey_Dave

Not at this time.


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## junkcheck

Thank you for the reply. here's hoping


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## agravic

Probably not but i figured I'd ask just in case. Di2 integration possible as a option or one off extra?

I'm planning on doing all internal electronic cabling and battery inside seatpost.


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## dougrocky123

*Excited*

I check Excel every day to see if the new Road Logic shows up.I've got a 15 yr old Logic with steel fork that still rides great but it would be nice to give it a stable mate!


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## Ventruck

Hanging question I never got around to asking. In an interview Tom said he used a 1 inch headtube but 1-1/8th inch steerer. Can anyone explain what he meant by that?


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## Ritchey_Dave

agravic said:


> Probably not but i figured I'd ask just in case. Di2 integration possible as a option or one off extra?
> 
> I'm planning on doing all internal electronic cabling and battery inside seatpost.


That's unfortunately not something we're capable of doing. If you want it bad enough I'll bet you can convince a framebuilder to help you out.


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## Ritchey_Dave

Ventruck said:


> Hanging question I never got around to asking. In an interview Tom said he used a 1 inch headtube but 1-1/8th inch steerer. Can anyone explain what he meant by that?


Good question! Most headtubes have a larger diameter (1 1/8") to accommodate headset cups to be pressed in and still allow the steer tube to move freely. Since we integrated the cups into the headtube and removed the redundant material of the cups, there was no need for the tube to be as large. A smaller tube (1") with thicker walls would be lighter and stronger, two things we as cyclist can never have enough of. Thus, making everything we love about steel frames even lighter.

Hope that answers your question. 

Dave


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## jneilt

So it is a 1" or 1.125" steerer?

Looks nice!


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## Ventruck

*Thanks.*



Ritchey_Dave said:


> Good question! Most headtubes have a larger diameter (1 1/8") to accommodate headset cups to be pressed in and still allow the steer tube to move freely. Since we integrated the cups into the headtube and removed the redundant material of the cups, there was no need for the tube to be as large. A smaller tube (1") with thicker walls would be lighter and stronger, two things we as cyclist can never have enough of. Thus, making everything we love about steel frames even lighter.
> 
> Hope that answers your question.
> 
> Dave


Ah, makes sense. Overlooked that a given 1-1/8" head tube profile is usually dictated by the bearings that are much wider than the steerer itself. I was initially just too fixated on just the quantitative terminology.

So if I'm catching on right...the bearings' outer races are fixed into the head tube, and all that gets replaced (if ever necessary) is just the inner races and ball bearings from an existing kit?


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## dougrocky123

*New ETA ?*

Look the Aug. eta has fallen by the wayside. Any new ETA?


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## Ritchey_Dave

jneilt said:


> So it is a 1" or 1.125" steerer?
> 
> Looks nice!


Standard 1.125". Keep in mind it comes with a matching Ritchey fork and headset.


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## Ritchey_Dave

Ventruck said:


> Ah, makes sense. Overlooked that a given 1-1/8" head tube profile is usually dictated by the bearings that are much wider than the steerer itself. I was initially just too fixated on just the quantitative terminology.
> 
> So if I'm catching on right...the bearings' outer races are fixed into the head tube, and all that gets replaced (if ever necessary) is just the inner races and ball bearings from an existing kit?


Yeah, it uses sealed bearings so it's really just cups that are fixed to the headtube. Servicing would be simply popping in new sealed 41.8 (IS 42/28.6) bearings and inner races.


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## Ritchey_Dave

dougrocky123 said:


> Look the Aug. eta has fallen by the wayside. Any new ETA?


Yeah, unfortunately they've been delayed a little. New ETA is end of October.


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## dougrocky123

*Ritchey Dave*

I'd like to start gathering some parts for a new Road Logic! Could you pass along the seat post size and if its a clamp on FD the size for that? Thanks in advance.


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## Ritchey_Dave

Sure thing. It uses a 27.2 seatpost, and a 28.6 front derrailleur clamp


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## dougrocky123

*On Website*

Road Logic now on Ritchey website. A month to wait ya say? I'm getting excited!


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## gsxrawd

nice looking frame!


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## gsxrawd

Ritchey Dave, can you tell me if the frame has a slight sloping top tube? if so how many degrees?


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## dougrocky123

*New date*

Excel Sports tells me the ETA is mid-Nov.


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## unagidon

Ritchey Dave - why such a steep seat tube on the small sizes, resulting in a really long reach! Also, any thoughts between the new road logic vs the nitanium ones from mid-90's, as that's what I'm currently riding?


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## Ritchey_Dave

gsxrawd said:


> Ritchey Dave, can you tell me if the frame has a slight sloping top tube? if so how many degrees?


Yes, they slope slightly. As far as how many degrees, I'd have to check, what size are you curious about?


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## Ritchey_Dave

unagidon said:


> Ritchey Dave - why such a steep seat tube on the small sizes, resulting in a really long reach! Also, any thoughts between the new road logic vs the nitanium ones from mid-90's, as that's what I'm currently riding?


The seat tube angle is just how Tom has designed frames now for a long time and is just what he feels a frame of that size requires. 

As far as a comparison between the new Road Logic and the older Nitanium version, I think you'd be the best qualified to find out and fill us all in


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## gsxrawd

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Yes, they slope slightly. As far as how many degrees, I'd have to check, what size are you curious about?


Hi Dave
I'm interested in the 51cm


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## gsxrawd

unagidon said:


> Ritchey Dave - why such a steep seat tube on the small sizes, resulting in a really long reach! Also, any thoughts between the new road logic vs the nitanium ones from mid-90's, as that's what I'm currently riding?



I ride a smaller size frame also so I was curious. This is what I found 
_
On factory made frames the seat angle will depend on the size of the frame, the smaller the frame the steeper the angle of the seat tube. Smaller frames are for smaller riders who have shorter thighs so they have to sit further forwards to get over the pedals. Taller riders need a more laid back angle because their thigh is longer.
_ 
_http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com/Frame_Geometry.html_

If you look at most of the major bike companies bike geometry they all design them that way.
But I'm sure some company do not follow that philosophy. Such as the Cervelo that I currently ride. Their seat tube angle is 73 degrees no matter what size the frame is.


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## Ritchey_Dave

gsxrawd said:


> Hi Dave
> I'm interested in the 51cm


4.16 degrees


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## gsxrawd

Ritchey_Dave said:


> 4.16 degrees



Thanks Ritchey Dave, I just place an order for one


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## Ritchey_Dave

gsxrawd said:


> Thanks Ritchey Dave, I just place an order for one


Awesome! They should be here real soon. Be sure to post a pic of the build and review it once it arrives.


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## unagidon

gsxrawd said:


> I ride a smaller size frame also so I was curious. This is what I found
> _
> On factory made frames the seat angle will depend on the size of the frame, the smaller the frame the steeper the angle of the seat tube. Smaller frames are for smaller riders who have shorter thighs so they have to sit further forwards to get over the pedals. Taller riders need a more laid back angle because their thigh is longer.
> _
> _Bike Frame Sizes, Geometry, Angles and All That!_
> 
> If you look at most of the major bike companies bike geometry they all design them that way.
> But I'm sure some company do not follow that philosophy. Such as the Cervelo that I currently ride. Their seat tube angle is 73 degrees no matter what size the frame is.


Being short, with longer legs and short torso, I've done quite a bit of research on geometry. It's true many manufacturers have steeper seat tube angles on smaller bikes. But that often makes those who only look at top tube lengths get an incorrectly sized bike. 

The smaller Specialized bikes are a prime example of large fitting "small" bikes. A 49cm bike with a reach of 378 on a "comfort bike" (I.e. Roubaix) is quite nutty... The short, relatively inflexible riders like myself would be very stretched if we had a proper saddle to crank set-up. Some companies that do it better include Cervelo, BMC granfondo, the new Lynskey Sportif disc - a decently short reach of under 370mm. 

But 518mm top tube on the 48cm, with 75 degree sta would have reach of approx. 374mm (just an educated guess since 49cm roubaix's have TT of 518 with sta of 75.5) and with a short head tube of 10cm, a pretty low stack meaning a pretty aggressive fit. 

I love my current ritchey and was secretly hoping the new road logic's would have more "middle aged" friendly geometry in the smaller frames. Unfortunately not... Too bad for me.


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## petromyzon

I'm wondering what the fender/mudguard potential is for this? Suspect perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree, but what is the clearance like on the carbon fork??


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## Ritchey_Dave

petromyzon said:


> I'm wondering what the fender/mudguard potential is for this? Suspect perhaps I'm barking up the wrong tree, but what is the clearance like on the carbon fork??


There are no fender mounts on the frame or fork, however you can install fenders that have clamps that wrap around the stays. The biggest fender/mudguard limiting factor on the Road Logic is the fork. I've had good luck with Crud Roadracers on our forks as long as you're using 23c tires.


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## petromyzon

Great, thanks Dave. I thought as much - it's hard to find a full carbon road fork with just a little bit more clearance without going to a 'cross setup.


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## emfc

anyone build up a frame yet? I need a new project bike and this frame is on my short list of steel frames.


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## gsxrawd

emfc said:


> anyone build up a frame yet? I need a new project bike and this frame is on my short list of steel frames.


Yes, here it is.


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## emfc

That is SICK!!!!! My build is going to be a little lest costly than yours.


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## bikesandparts1

gsxrawd said:


> Yes, here it is.


First off, that bike is absolutely gorgeous and the build is stunning!

Second, it would be great to see some more photos of the bike when you have a chance. Bike porn is good, safe porn.

Third, any chance you can give us a short ride report with your initial impressions?

Thanks!


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## gsxrawd

Here is a small review
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/ritchey/new-road-logic-has-landed-294949.html




bikesandparts1 said:


> First off, that bike is absolutely gorgeous and the build is stunning!
> 
> Second, it would be great to see some more photos of the bike when you have a chance. Bike porn is good, safe porn.
> 
> Third, any chance you can give us a short ride report with your initial impressions?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


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## timjeong

I'm one click away from ordering the frameset. I was originally looking for titanium but I fell in love at first sight!

One question though about the material: What kind of steel is it? What is "quality steel"? 

I'm fairly new to steel and I've been reading up on it. There's chromoly, columbus etc but haven't been able to wrap my head around everything fully yet.


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> I'm one click away from ordering the frameset. I was originally looking for titanium but I fell in love at first sight!
> 
> One question though about the material: What kind of steel is it? What is "quality steel"?
> 
> I'm fairly new to steel and I've been reading up on it. There's chromoly, columbus etc but haven't been able to wrap my head around everything fully yet.


That's a really good question. The type of tubing used for a steel frame is arguably one of the most important choices a framebuilder makes when creating the perfect ride. All the fabulous characteristics of steel that you've been probably reading about all can be increased or decreased and tuned by using different types of steel tubing. The tubing used for the Road Logic is Tom Ritchey's own blend of fine-tuned, light weight tubing, which is why you won't find names like Reynolds or Columbus on there. Tom has been making frames for over 40 years, and his knowledge and opinions of steel tubing is epic. Rest assured, unlike many of the cheaper steel frames on the market, the tubing on a Ritchey has been heavily scrutinized, and will most definitely provide the amazing ride characteristics steel is legend for.


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## timjeong

Thanks for the answer. I just ordered it!!!!!!


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## dude72

The frame looks really nice, however i am not sure if it will fit me. Ritchey_Dave can you plese give more details if the frame itself is meant for the comfort orientated rider or for the competition rider. For me it looks like the frame is more suited for competition, or not?

thanks for your help.


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## Ritchey_Dave

dude72 said:


> The frame looks really nice, however i am not sure if it will fit me. Ritchey_Dave can you plese give more details if the frame itself is meant for the comfort orientated rider or for the competition rider. For me it looks like the frame is more suited for competition, or not?
> 
> thanks for your help.


That's a tough question to answer, because we don't really feel the two are mutually exclusive. It's steel, so it's going to be much more compliant than most aluminum and carbon frames on the market, however the geometry is more race oriented than most comfort road bikes. It was designed around classic European stage racing, which is to say it's meant to facilitate riding fast for long periods of time, comfortably. Hope that helps.


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## timjeong

My order went funny. This is the email I got from the shop owner:

"Ritchey sent me a p29 frame, with a swiss cross frame on the delivery note... it could not have been more wrong. But the right frame will be with me tomorrow."

Goodness me...

Btw, I don't need to get a seatclamp for this frame, right?
Also, will all stems fit the fork of do I need a particular size?


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## dude72

Ritchey_Dave said:


> That's a tough question to answer, because we don't really feel the two are mutually exclusive. It's steel, so it's going to be much more compliant than most aluminum and carbon frames on the market, however the geometry is more race oriented than most comfort road bikes. It was designed around classic European stage racing, which is to say it's meant to facilitate riding fast for long periods of time, comfortably. Hope that helps.



Thank you for your answer. Unfortunately this frame will be to race oriented for me. But it sure looks nice !


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> My order went funny. This is the email I got from the shop owner:
> 
> "Ritchey sent me a p29 frame, with a swiss cross frame on the delivery note... it could not have been more wrong. But the right frame will be with me tomorrow."
> 
> Goodness me...
> 
> Btw, I don't need to get a seatclamp for this frame, right?
> Also, will all stems fit the fork of do I need a particular size?


Wow, sorry about that. It sounds like it's all straightened out but let me know if you run into more issues.

No seatclamp needed. 

All modern stems with 1 1/8" steer tube clamps will work. That is 90% of the stems sold in the market these days.


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## timjeong

All sorted out now and on its way over. 

What size front derailleur clamp do I need? I just have the one from my previous carbon frame. It had a 31.6 seat clamp so does that mean my current derailleur clamp will be too big for the Ritchey?


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> All sorted out now and on its way over.
> 
> What size front derailleur clamp do I need? I just have the one from my previous carbon frame. It had a 31.6 seat clamp so does that mean my current derailleur clamp will be too big for the Ritchey?


Great!

As far as the front derailleur, you're going to need a 28.6 for your Road Logic. Some brands, like Shimano, come with spacers to fit all tube sizes.


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## timjeong

Do I need special tools to install the headset? I'm not too familiar with "integrated" headsets.


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> Do I need special tools to install the headset? I'm not too familiar with "integrated" headsets.


Just a crown race setter to get the crown race onto the fork. Other than that it's pretty easy.


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## timjeong

I see. I was hoping to put the whole thing together with my set of basic tools. I'm new to assembling a bike from the ground up, as you can see. Off to the LBS I go!
Thanks Ritchey_D!


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## JERE B

Your gone to need more than just a race setter to build that bike.
If my frameset is any indicator of the amount Finnish work that needs to be done , most home wrenches will not have tools


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## timjeong

JERE B said:


> Your gone to need more than just a race setter to build that bike.
> If my frameset is any indicator of the amount Finnish work that needs to be done , most home wrenches will not have tools


I have an Icetoolz essence toolkit so I should be able to do most things. But you're still right Jere B.


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## JERE B

Hi
Have you tryed to put the seat post or bottom bracket in yet ?
Your fun has just started.
Jere B


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## george7117

So, Jere, does it come needing a lot of work? Bad Threads on the BB? Facing required? Spill it man, I'm about to pull the trigger .......
Thanks


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## Dallez

I'm enthralled with this frame set. I've got to get my hands on one sometime this year. 

I currently ride a 2010 Specialized Allez size 54 with a 20cm spacer cone and a 110mm stem. I am having a really tough time deciding on which Logic size fits me better. Here are some basic Allez dims according to the Specialized geo chart for 2010. I am about 5'-10 with a 30" inseam. 

Eff. TT: 548mm
ST: 500mm
HT: 155mm
BB Drop: 69mm
ST Angle: 73.5
HT Angle 72.5
Chainstay Length: 405mm


Size 53 Pros:
Logic Eff. TT is 545mm, or within 3mm of my current frame. BB drop/Chainstay length/ST angle is virtually identical. ST length is 15mm taller, but I don't think it's a problem as the Allez has a very compact geo/sloping TT.
Size 53 Cons:
140mm HT. My Allez has a 155mm HT. I'm guessing this will mean I will need (more) spacers. Very anti slamthatstem.com

Size 55 Pros:
160mm HT. I can probably get away with minimal amount of spacers. BB drop/Chainstay length is virtually identical.
Size 55 Cons: 
Eff TT is 560, or 12mm longer than my current frame. ST is 525mm, or 25mm taller than my current frame. 

Part of me says go with the 55 because its not too much longer and I can always go down to a 100mm stem if need be and I can use a minimal amount of spacers. 

The other part of me says, the 53 is virtually identical to my current geo, only with a shorter HT. 

Which way would you guys go?  Would you rather have 15mm less of HT or 12mm more of TT. Which is the lesser of two evils?

RitcheyDave, can you confirm the HT length is measured from the top flared cup to bottom flared cup? Also, does the ST Length go from the BB to the Actual TT center line and or the Effective TT center line? Lastly can you confirm the TT slope of the 53 and the 55 (from horizontal)?


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## Ritchey_Dave

Great to hear you're interested in a Ritchey! The head tube height is measured from the top of the cup to the bottom of the lower cup. The seat tube length is measured from center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. Slope for the 53cm is 4 degrees and 5 for the 55cm.


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## Dallez

Thanks Dave! One more question, do you anticipate a color change for '13? I love this color and want to know how much time I have to purchase the frame as it stands. I wasn't planning on being able to do so until late summer. But I don't want to miss out if changes are planned. 

So, I found out about bikecad.ca yesterday and played around with it during lunch today. I've mocked up 2 diagrams showing my dilemma. 


Allez 54 (current bike) vs Logic 53










Allez 54 (current bike) vs Logic 55










The 53 seems pretty much spot on to my current 54 albeit with a lower stem/bar height. I would hate to add a spacer but it looks like that might be a better fit. The 53 would be marginally lighter too. The 55 is a bit larger overall, but would I notice? I don't know. Thoughts?


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## Ritchey_Dave

That color should still be in production by late summer.


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## Dallez

Dave,

Thanks for the confirmation. Any idea what the rake is on the 53 and the 55? Is it 43mm or 45mm?


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## Ritchey_Dave

Dallez said:


> Dave,
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation. Any idea what the rake is on the 53 and the 55? Is it 43mm or 45mm?


The rake on all the forks is 45mm.


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## stevedodds

*Ritchey Logic , Swiss Cross and Break away www.BicycleDoctorUSA.com*



Smoothy said:


> Ritchey Dave, can you share some of the spec on the 2012 production version of the Logic Road frame/fork? Geometry (including bb drop) for each size? Are the fork legs and/or steerer steel or carbon? BB shell format? Will Excel have them in July?
> 
> The pics from NAHBS show a color that looks to be a charcoal. Is this the color for the production run coming?


Just want to Let the roadbike review riders know to check with Bicycle Doctor USA Home for all your ritchey Needs


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## JERE B

george7117 said:


> So, Jere, does it come needing a lot of work? Bad Threads on the BB? Facing required? Spill it man, I'm about to pull the trigger .......
> Thanks


Pull the trigger you love the ride and handling but get the dealer to do a old pro setup 
Have them install the fork race , ream the seat post and face / thread the bottom bracket. Or buy $800.00 of tools that's up to you.


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## timjeong

*Headset, fork, headtube*

(I replied on the wrong message but now I can't delete it. Oh well...)

I've installed everything, but I'm having trouble with the fork and headset. I've pressed everything as tight as possible but there's play in the fork and head tube of the frame. I'm sure I put all the bearings in the right order and I've tighter the headset and stem.

Also, my LBS mech had trouble with the fork steerer tube and for some reason he cut it too short. Any idea how I can get my hands on another matching fork?


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## zacolnago

timjeong said:


> View attachment 277698
> 
> My LBS mechanic either screwed up big time or there was a problem with the fork steerer tube.
> When I got back to the shop, the fork tube was chopped off so short that it would come up to only half of the stem clamp. I asked him what happened and he said the tube was warped inside and the head tube wasn't able to fix itself in it. What the heck?? Now I have a super short tube with an overly expanded head tube that's only halfway in the steerer tube. What the f$#&??
> 
> Is there a way I can buy another of the same fork?


Something smells off. If I was the LBS I would have called you first and shown you what the problem is. I would then give you an option of getting a new fork or hack together a solution like they have done.


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## stevedodds

Sorry to see someone cut your fork wrong, If it was a shop they should stand behind that mistake. The old adage “always say measure twice cut once”, someone did not do that in this case From what I am seeing do not ride it till you sort it out.


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## Dallez

Man what a bummer. I would chat with your lbs today to see about making it right. I definitely wouldn't ride it the way it is. 

Good luck and let us know how it turns out. 

I am thinking of ordering this frame pretty soon.


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> (I replied on the wrong message but now I can't delete it. Oh well...)
> 
> I've installed everything, but I'm having trouble with the fork and headset. I've pressed everything as tight as possible but there's play in the fork and head tube of the frame. I'm sure I put all the bearings in the right order and I've tighter the headset and stem.
> 
> Also, my LBS mech had trouble with the fork steerer tube and for some reason he cut it too short. Any idea how I can get my hands on another matching fork?


That setup is no good. I'd have you LBS either replace it or contact us if it is in fact a manufacturer defect.


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## timjeong

So...the mech at my LBS has cut the fork steerer tube too short, has admitted his fault, and has offered to buy me a new fork.


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## timjeong

What's the rake/offset of the fork that comes with the road logic frameset?


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## Ritchey_Dave

timjeong said:


> What's the rake/offset of the fork that comes with the road logic frameset?


The fork on the Road Logic has a 45mm rake for sizes 49-53, and a 43mm rake for sizes 55-59.


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## MJB67

Thought I'd share a couple of pix of my new build.
Ritchey Road Logic 59CM
Ritchey WCS Alloy bars, stem, seat post and saddle
HED Belgium rims, White Industries hubs
Shimano Ultegra Groupo


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## Ritchey_Dave

MJB67 said:


> Thought I'd share a couple of pix of my new build.
> Ritchey Road Logic 59CM
> Ritchey WCS Alloy bars, stem, seat post and saddle
> HED Belgium rims, White Industries hubs
> Shimano Ultegra Groupo


Pretty much a perfect build in my eyes!


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## flatlander_48

Very Understated!


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## Jordy

Here's my new Ritchey!

i'm sorry for the crappy pictures, i hope i can shoot some better ones tomorrow.
View attachment 278491

Frame: Ritchey logic road 55cm
fork: Ritchey carbon
Wheels: notubes alpha 340 rims, DT Aerolite spokes, DT 240s hubs
derrailleurs: SRAM Red
crank: SRAM Red 39-53 gxp 175
shifters: SRAM Red
brakes: SRAM Red
bottom bracket: C-bear ceramic road
saddle: Fizik arione cx kium
seatpost: Zipp sl speed 350 mm
handlebar: Ritchey wcs classic 26.0 42 cm
stem: Syntace F99 ti bolts
pedals: look keo blade carbon
tires: Vredestein fortezza tricomp slick 23 mm
weight: 7.49 kg


----------



## timjeong

Could someone outline the order in which the headset should be installed? I can't get rid of the wobble in the fork even though I've tightened the compression plug pretty darn tight. (No, I didn't tighten the stem first.)
I just want to make sure I dropped in the headset correctly.


----------



## timjeong

Man I feel so stupid...:aureola:
So I got the new fork but I wasn't installing the compression plug correctly. Didn't know I had to take the plug apart, fix the expanding part in the top of the steerer tube, and then screw on the top cap. 
:thumbsup:
Don't laugh!


----------



## Jordy

here`s my bike with Fulcrum racing zero and black handlebar tape
View attachment 280284


----------



## Dallez

*Road Logic Size 55cm*

Here is my new Ritchey Logic. Size 55. Seatpost and stem painted by David Cheakas of Southwest Frameworks. He did a great job.


----------



## GRAVELBIKE

The matching components look great.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

You built that frame up right. Well done!


----------



## seemana

GRAVELBIKE said:


> The matching components look great.


+1....I've got a painter friend that just may be getting a call to do the same thing to mine. That looks awesome!


----------



## SuprF1y

Lovely looking frame. 
Ritchey Dave,
Would this work for a 220lb + rider?
I'm looking to upgrade from an older Columbus 'SLX New' 58cm frame that I'm finding too flexy for out of the seat efforts.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

It would totally work for a 220lbs rider. As far as flex, all I can say is Tom Ritchey prides himself on building frames that, not only fit riders of all sizes, but handles and feels right as well. At 220lbs you're not outside of the range of rider this frame was designed for, so it should feel fine. 



SuprF1y said:


> Lovely looking frame.
> Ritchey Dave,
> Would this work for a 220lb + rider?
> I'm looking to upgrade from an older Columbus 'SLX New' 58cm frame that I'm finding too flexy for out of the seat efforts.


----------



## hansbaerholm

These bikes look so good, I can hardly stand it.
I haven't been able to unearth this anywhere else online, so I'll give it a go here:

Dave, do you have stack and reach numbers for this frame, specifically for the 55 and 57 cm frames. And if possible, the same for the Swiss Cross. 

Thanks in advance,

Hans.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

hansbaerholm said:


> These bikes look so good, I can hardly stand it.
> I haven't been able to unearth this anywhere else online, so I'll give it a go here:
> 
> Dave, do you have stack and reach numbers for this frame, specifically for the 55 and 57 cm frames. And if possible, the same for the Swiss Cross.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Hans.


Currently I don't have those measurements. However, we're getting them figured out and the Ritchey website should have them up within the next couple of weeks.


----------



## hansbaerholm

Thanks Dave,
BTW, are there new colors for 2014?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

The colors will remain the same for 2014. Any suggestions for 2015?



hansbaerholm said:


> Thanks Dave,
> BTW, are there new colors for 2014?


----------



## seemana

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The colors will remain the same for 2014. Any suggestions for 2015?


Keep it dark and understated....this bike isn't made for flashy colors in my opinion. 

First thing that pops in my head, what about something along the lines of "british racing green"? That could be real nice.

Edit to add: I have absolutely loved mine so far. Absolutely zero complaints! I highly recommend picking one up if you're on the fence :thumbsup:


----------



## hansbaerholm

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The colors will remain the same for 2014. Any suggestions for 2015?


no complaints on the color from what I've seen in pics, but a classic ritchey red/white/blue, either in panels or fade, or red like the swisscross, or the blue/silver like the chicane. Stay classy!


----------



## Andy-G

Dave do you have stack and reach measurements for size 57? Thanks.


----------



## sluggomania

Would also like to have stack and reach measurements for size 51 when becomes available.

Thank you,


----------



## giostorino

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The fork on the Road Logic has a 45mm rake.


The fork on the 59 cm frame I just received has a 43 mm rake.


----------



## AndrewT

First time post here.

I first heard about this frame a couple of weeks ago and have since been obsessed with it and Dallez, your build looks very, very nice.

Dallez, how is the ride quality? Please give a detailed report when you can.
I'm currently riding a '93 Bridgestone RB-1 (Yellow) and am almost considering getting rid of it for the Ritchey. The dimensions seem pretty close and I'm intrigued about having something slightly lighter and stiffer.
I feel like the bottom bracket on the RB-1 is not quite as stiff as I'd like it to be and I notice it's overall flexiness when climbing.

Everything about the Logic 2.0 sounds good to me. Light. Short butted tubes = stiff but compliant. Really sexy looking too, especially with the SRAM Rival, Force, and Red builds I've been seeing online.

Might possibly try and get rid of the RB-1 with newer Ultegra components and just keep my Fizik Antares Versus saddle and Mavic Open Pro CD wheels and get a Ritchey Logic 2.0 and a SRAM Rival or Force (or maybe Force 22 as that group looks super nice) groupset.


----------



## hamsik

If anybody is interested, I would like to trade my 57 road logic frame with a 59. Frame is in pristine conditions, less than 500 miles.


----------



## tigrolino22

Still quite a few usefull measurements missing on the website (stack, reach,..).
I am planning to buy the bike and I am 1,72m (5ft8" i belief) , normal build should I go for a 53 or a 55 ?
thanks


----------



## out for a while

+1 for stack and reach measurements ! Ritchey Dave, the bike is available for monthes now and there's still no updates on the website.

I use to ride a 57*56 diamond with a 160 head tube and i'm hesitating between 55 and 57. Stack and reach would be of a great interest to make my choice.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Sorry folks, 

Wasn't getting notified about posts on this thread for some reason. Stack and reach for the Ritchey Road Logic below. 

<a href="https://s124.photobucket.com/user/davelaw650/media/Ritchey/StackandReach_zps5f5d92ac.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/davelaw650/Ritchey/StackandReach_zps5f5d92ac.jpg" border="0" alt="Ritchey Road Logic Stack and Reach photo StackandReach_zps5f5d92ac.jpg"/></a>


----------



## out for a while

Thanks a lot Dave !


----------



## tigrolino22

tigrolino22 said:


> Still quite a few usefull measurements missing on the website (stack, reach,..).
> I am planning to buy the bike and I am 1,72m (5ft8" i belief) , normal build should I go for a 53 or a 55 ?
> thanks


Hey Dave,
what do you reckon would be the apparently best fitting size for me ?


----------



## tigrolino22

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Sorry folks,
> 
> Wasn't getting notified about posts on this thread for some reason. Stack and reach for the Ritchey Road Logic below.


What about the wheelbase ? Thx


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tigrolino22 said:


> Hey Dave,
> what do you reckon would be the apparently best fitting size for me ?


I never like to give sizing advice without seeing, measuring, and talking to someone extensively. It can be tricky and if you're unsure what size to get, talk to your local retailer. They can do all of the above and make sure you get the right size. 

Dave


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tigrolino22 said:


> What about the wheelbase ? Thx



Wheelbase is 99cm.


----------



## hamsik

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Wheelbase is 99cm.


Could you tell me what is the wheelbase for 57 and 59?


----------



## tigrolino22

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Wheelbase is 99cm.


Thanks Dave , is that exactly 990 or 99x depending on the fame size ?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Wheelbase for the Ritchey Road Logic frame. 

49	974
51	980
53	984
55	988
57	1003
59	1018


----------



## hamsik

Thank you RD. 
I read on the Ritchey website there is no weight limit for any of the products, however I was wondering what is the target rider weight you design/test frames and forks. Or what is the rider optimal weight range for best feel/performance on your road forks. 





Ritchey_Dave said:


> Wheelbase for the Ritchey Road Logic frame.
> 
> 49 974
> 51 980
> 53 984
> 55 988
> 57 1003
> 59 1018


----------



## DasBoost

hamsik said:


> Thank you RD.
> I read on the Ritchey website there is no weight limit for any of the products, however I was wondering what is the target rider weight you design/test frames and forks. Or what is the rider optimal weight range for best feel/performance on your road forks.


I too am interested in this question; already looking at budget for next bike and looking towards the Road Logic frame and building it up instead of a carbon bike. Love the color and becoming more interested in steel for next road bike.


----------



## hamsik

DasBoost said:


> I too am interested in this question; already looking at budget for next bike and looking towards the Road Logic frame and building it up instead of a carbon bike. Love the color and becoming more interested in steel for next road bike.


......


----------



## burgrat

hamsik said:


> If you are more than 185lb, I do not recommend this frameset.
> I weight around 200lb and the carbon fork is just not suitable for somebody my weight.


I'm curious as to why you think that. Are you mainly concerned with the fork? I don't think there would be any problem for someone 185+lbs on that frame. As far as the fork, would a fork with an aluminum steerer be any better (i.e. safer or stronger)? I've always preferred to stay away from all-carbon forks because I'm a pretty big guy. What do you think?


----------



## DasBoost

hamsik said:


> If you are more than 185lb, I do not recommend this frameset.
> I weight around 200lb and the carbon fork is just not suitable for somebody my weight.





burgrat said:


> I'm curious as to why you think that. Are you mainly concerned with the fork? I don't think there would be any problem for someone 185+lbs on that frame. As far as the fork, would a fork with an aluminum steerer be any better (i.e. safer or stronger)? I've always preferred to stay away from all-carbon forks because I'm a pretty big guy. What do you think?


Thanks for the feedback, but I'm wondering the same as burgrat; my Fuji is aluminum frame with a carbon fork and that was one of my concerns and the store called their Fuji rep to confirm it'd be ok. Is it the steel/carbon combo versus aluminum/carbon?


----------



## hamsik

.....


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

hamsik said:


> Thank you RD.
> I read on the Ritchey website there is no weight limit for any of the products, however I was wondering what is the target rider weight you design/test frames and forks. Or what is the rider optimal weight range for best feel/performance on your road forks.


All Ritchey frames are size specific. Meaning depending on the size, they're designed around the average rider weight that would ride that size frame. Our range is neither very wide or narrow compared to other production frames made.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

hamsik said:


> Ok, please disregard my previous comment about frameset not being suitable for riders over 185 lb.
> 
> Here is what happened....
> 
> I recently switched the 700x23 tires for 700x28.
> 
> After few rides I started noticing a persistent fork chatter under breaking.
> I contacted a Ritchey dealer to have the fork inspected.
> 
> Fork was fine but the mechanic suggested to replace the full carbon fork with the aluminum steering version for increased stiffness.
> 
> 
> Yesterday I removed and inspected the fork to find this:
> 
> 
> 
> The crown shows severe signs of abrasions...
> 
> 
> You can actually see what seems to be the brake bolt... hard to tell.
> 
> Possibly something got stuck between fork and tire while I was riding. Maybe some loose snow or ice piled up. However I did not notice any unusual noise.
> 
> When I installed the tires, the rear fork clearance was good. I could not get a good look at front fork clearance because the brake made it hard to see but since the back was good, I assumed everything ok.
> After all, I read from few sources, including Ritchey, the bike takes up to 28's.
> 
> BACK CLEARANCE:
> 
> 
> However, once I removed the caliper...
> FRONT CLEARANCE:
> 
> 
> 
> I been obviously missing out on carbon fork design and 1 1/8 head tubes issues since the last road bike I owned was when aluminum was cool and headset were 1 inch.
> 
> It does not seem a good design to have such a difference between front of the fork and rear of the fork clearance. That area becomes a funnel and objects can make their way in but not their way out.
> 
> Being able to run 28's, no rider weight limit, geometry and Ritchey quality were in order the four reasons for choosing this bike.
> 
> Either something got stuck between tire and fork or the tire just rubbed on the crown when the fork flex. Either way the fork can not safely take 28's.
> 
> I am wondering if Ritchey Dave can give the company view on this issue and if I can get a replacement fork.
> I would have not bought the bike and I would have not installed 700x28's if I did not read from various sources it was possible to run larger tires.


It is unfortunate that tire variance is so extreme, but it is a fact that at this time in the bicycle industry we must deal with. While tire sizes such as 700x23 and 700x28 are meant to describe the fully inflated tire size you are purchasing, these measurements vary from brand to brand. 700x28 is the maximum, meaning the tires in this size that we tested fit, but nothing larger. Depending on the psi you run, conditions where you ride, and brand of tire you choose the clearance may become small enough that you might not want to put 28s on there. These factors are beyond the scope of what we can predict. 

However, while tire size variance can be frustrating, the beautiful thing about bicycles is you can always make things work. While we equip our Road Logic with our best full carbon fork, this might, as stated above, not be enough fork for your clearance needs. You can always swap out the fork, which can't be said about the rear stays.


----------



## hamsik

Ritchey_Dave said:


> It is unfortunate that tire variance is so extreme, but it is a fact that at this time in the bicycle industry we must deal with. While tire sizes such as 700x23 and 700x28 are meant to describe the fully inflated tire size you are purchasing, these measurements vary from brand to brand. 700x28 is the maximum, meaning the tires in this size that we tested fit, but nothing larger. Depending on the psi you run, conditions where you ride, and brand of tire you choose the clearance may become small enough that you might not want to put 28s on there. These factors are beyond the scope of what we can predict.
> 
> However, while tire size variance can be frustrating, the beautiful thing about bicycles is you can always make things work. While we equip our Road Logic with our best full carbon fork, this might, as stated above, not be enough fork for your clearance needs. You can always swap out the fork, which can't be said about the rear stays.




Please let me know if you are going to replace the fork.


----------



## hamsik

Ritchey_Dave said:


> All Ritchey frames are size specific. Meaning depending on the size, they're designed around the average rider weight that would ride that size frame. Our range is neither very wide or narrow compared to other production frames made.



What about the fork?


----------



## hamsik

Ritchey_Dave said:


> It is unfortunate that tire variance is so extreme, but it is a fact that at this time in the bicycle industry we must deal with. While tire sizes such as 700x23 and 700x28 are meant to describe the fully inflated tire size you are purchasing, these measurements vary from brand to brand. 700x28 is the maximum, meaning the tires in this size that we tested fit, but nothing larger. Depending on the psi you run, conditions where you ride, and brand of tire you choose the clearance may become small enough that you might not want to put 28s on there. These factors are beyond the scope of what we can predict.
> 
> However, while tire size variance can be frustrating, the beautiful thing about bicycles is you can always make things work. While we equip our Road Logic with our best full carbon fork, this might, as stated above, not be enough fork for your clearance needs. You can always swap out the fork, which can't be said about the rear stays.


..........


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

hamsik said:


> Am I very well aware of tire variations, including rim factor etc. Clement Strada 700x28 run a little small if anything. I run narrow rims on top of that.
> 
> 
> Long story short:
> I have been misleaded by Ritchey (marketing department) to buy a product that makes false claims?
> 
> Please let me know if you are going to replace the fork.


I'm sorry you having issues with your tire fitment. Continentals tires are what we used to base our measurements. You can see from the pictures below their is an acceptable amount of clearance with these 4 Seasons installed on our Road Logic. As stated above, tires vary on their actual size from brand to brand, and I unfortunately can't replace your fork because one tire manufacturer's measurement for a tire differs from another.


----------



## hamsik

.....


----------



## JERE B

Mite as well give it up.
Ritchey sponcered web site.
And you will get the run around look back at my posts.
I was pissed at there Qualty control and got the run around.


----------



## hamsik

JERE B said:


> Mite as well give it up.
> Ritchey sponcered web site.
> And you will get the run around look back at my posts.
> I was pissed at there Qualty control and got the run around.



........


----------



## yashashana

Hi Dave, will the Logic 2.0 come in a different color for 2014?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Possibly, unfortunately I haven't heard of what it is yet.


----------



## yashashana

Thank you, I'll wait and see.
It looks like a wonderful frame, I am just not thrilled about the color.
Thanks again Dave!



Ritchey_Dave said:


> Possibly, unfortunately I haven't heard of what it is yet.


----------



## tigrolino22

Ritchey_Dave said:


> I'm sorry you having issues with your tire fitment. Continentals tires are what we used to base our measurements. You can see from the pictures below their is an acceptable amount of clearance with these 4 Seasons installed on our Road Logic. As stated above, tires vary on their actual size from brand to brand, and I unfortunately can't replace your fork because one tire manufacturer's measurement for a tire differs from another.
> 
> View attachment 292694
> 
> View attachment 292695


Dave, As I am to to pull the trigger on the Road Logic 2 frame? i having second thoughts on the tire clearance. It is my intention to fit the bike with the extra-wide Ritchey WCS Zeta II and run 28c tyres tubeless. Will that work ?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tigrolino22 said:


> Dave, As I am to to pull the trigger on the Road Logic 2 frame? i having second thoughts on the tire clearance. It is my intention to fit the bike with the extra-wide Ritchey WCS Zeta II and run 28c tyres tubeless. Will that work ?


It depends on the tire you're planning on using. 28c Continentals like the above will fit. Is there another brand you're interested in?


----------



## tigrolino22

Ritchey_Dave said:


> It depends on the tire you're planning on using. 28c Continentals like the above will fit. Is there another brand you're interested in?


Continental would be acceptable.
i was looking at Specialized Roubaix.
is there a short list of the more readily available brands which would fit except the Continentals ?
thx


----------



## Peter P.

While the Continental tire may clear the fork crown, it may NOT clear the attached brake. I certainly agree that Ritchey is only responsible to design the frame clearances, any buyer should be aware that the brake caliper may further limit tire options.


----------



## old-goat

What is weight of size 57 frame&fork ?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

old-goat said:


> What is weight of size 57 frame&fork ?


We haven't weighed a 57cm but a 55cm is 4.6 lbs with fork.


----------



## giostorino

old-goat said:


> What is weight of size 57 frame&fork ?


My 59 with fork is 4.85 lbs so a 57 should be roughly halfway between that and the 4.6 lbs Dave quoted for a 55.


----------



## old-goat

giostorino said:


> My 59 with fork is 4.85 lbs so a 57 should be roughly halfway between that and the 4.6 lbs Dave quoted for a 55.


thank you very much for info! exactly what i was looking! what components/gruppo did you build up on your 59cm? have you ridden it much? what are your thoughts? any bb flex?


----------



## mbestudio

Took delivery last week.


----------



## seemana

Peter P. said:


> While the Continental tire may clear the fork crown, it may NOT clear the attached brake. I certainly agree that Ritchey is only responsible to design the frame clearances, any buyer should be aware that the brake caliper may further limit tire options.


This is a great point. I run Conti GP4000s in a 700x25 with Rival brakes. I need to push the tire through. No way I'd fit 28s through there.

As a side, I'm on year two of my Road Logic and have absolutely zero complaints about it. I don't see myself replacing this bike for a long time. Love the way the frame rides.


----------



## old-goat

mbestudio said:


> Took delivery last week.
> View attachment 294640


WOW!!! Fantastic!! Well chosen components -- understated, discreet, but stealth. Just beautiful!!


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tigrolino22 said:


> Continental would be acceptable.
> i was looking at Specialized Roubaix.
> is there a short list of the more readily available brands which would fit except the Continentals ?
> thx


We're working on a list. On of the guys in the office fit Specialized All Condition 28c tires on his bike so if their measuring system is consistent it's likely they'll fit.


----------



## rayms

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The colors will remain the same for 2014. Any suggestions for 2015?


Light Green and a braze on front derailleur hanger.


----------



## twoyacks

that looks awesome!!! Would love to see a new color for 2014.


----------



## rayms

Wondering what the tube diameters and gauges are?
Would this be a Reynolds 753 equivalent?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

It's hard to compare as tubing selection is only one factor in many that effect a bikes ride characteristic. I can say this: the tubing is specifically designed to give it a compliant, all day, ride feel, while still being _very _light. 



rayms said:


> Wondering what the tube diameters and gauges are?
> Would this be a Reynolds 753 equivalent?


----------



## velo73

hi. a newbie here.
I'm looking at a steel frame for comfort on these here french roads.

I am curious about this aswell, I have a couple of questions.
1) about the tyre clearance. 
I run vredestein fortezza tricomp's 700x25. I would think about going up to 28.
the thing is I find vredestein's do come up a little bigger when inflated at 120psi so would a 25 be ok in the fork and rear stays, and would a 28 fit?

2) also if worse case senario happened and you had damage to the bike, being steel I take it you could bend things back or re-weld bits if needed.?

I want to make sure before I commit to a frame to build up.
I am curious also about the price. over here in europe the price for the frame seems to be arounbd £950 which with currency exchange works out to be around $1600. is that the price you pay in the US.? 
I only ask because there does seem to be a price hike in certain part parts of europe.

thanks.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

You'll be alright running 25s but if you haven't already read, some 28s do not fit very well. The fork is the limiting factor, so if you definitely want to run bigger tires you can always get a fork with more clearance. Our suggested retail price for a Road Logic here in the US is $1,050. Not sure why you're seeing it so much higher, but shipping a frame box around the world does have it's costs. My guess is they're adjusting the price to make up for that, which is understandable.

As far as repairs, yes, steel is arguably easier to repair. However we at Ritchey don't do repairs (unless it's a warranty issue), but there are a number of custom bicycle frame builders that would absolutely be able to fix a damaged frame for you.


----------



## velo73

Thanks for the reply dave.
that answered what I needed to know.



i don't understand the price either.
i understand shipping costs are involved but $600 a frame seems a lot.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

velo73 said:


> Thanks for the reply dave.
> that answered what I needed to know.
> 
> 
> 
> i don't understand the price either.
> i understand shipping costs are involved but $600 a frame seems a lot.


Taxes and duties add up too. Some parts of Canada see a very similar upcharge due to things like this.


----------



## Duke Carvell

Hi Dave

Got my 2.0 nine months ago and absolutely love it - a fantastic frame.



Ritchey_Dave said:


> The fork is the limiting factor, so if you definitely want to run bigger tires you can always get a fork with more clearance.


On this point, can you recommend a fork with more clearance that wont affect the handling of the bike? Does one of the Ritchey forks have more clearance? 

Cheers


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Duke Carvell said:


> Hi Dave
> 
> Got my 2.0 nine months ago and absolutely love it - a fantastic frame.
> 
> On this point, can you recommend a fork with more clearance that wont affect the handling of the bike? Does one of the Ritchey forks have more clearance?
> 
> Cheers


Glad to hear you're loving your frame! 

We currently don't make a road fork with more clearance. However any fork with the correct rake will not affect handling. Depending on the size frame you have you'll be looking for the below rake. 

49/51/53cm frames have 45mm rake
55/57/59cm frames have 43mm rake


----------



## Peter P.

If you need clearances for a 28mm tire that won't change the geometry of the frame, have a steel fork built.

My Soulcraft fork does the job. That's a 23mm tire under the brake, with plenty of room left over.


----------



## Pewe

Nice frame, filling a gap between the cheaper steel frames and the expensive custom builders. 

Ritchey_dave asked earlier in the tread about our wishes for a different color on the frame and I think this frame would be even better in a light blue metallic. The grey is OK but not very exciting...

Any plans of changing the color?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Yes, we'll likely change it this next season. I'll throw your color suggestion into the discussion.


----------



## penn_rider

Still waiting on a Red.. Just seems like the right color, but if it will be another year, I may have to pull the trigger on a grey next month. 

Question dave. I will be pulling 2010 Sram Force off my current 2009 Roubaix Pro. What else should I look for that may not swap over?


----------



## Zampano

If you reintroduce the crimson red from my '95 Road Logic, I'll buy it. Best red ever.


----------



## tka

A red would be my second choice. A brushed titanium finish would be my first choice :wink5:


----------



## Zampano

And if you make it like this....


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

penn_rider said:


> Still waiting on a Red.. Just seems like the right color, but if it will be another year, I may have to pull the trigger on a grey next month.
> 
> Question dave. I will be pulling 2010 Sram Force off my current 2009 Roubaix Pro. What else should I look for that may not swap over?


I think the only thing you'd _need _to get would be a 28.6 front derailleur clamp. Since the Roubaix uses a braze-on front derailleur, you'd need something to mount it on for the Ritchey. Something like this. 

Oh and you might need a different bottom bracket. The Ritchey uses a pretty standard English/British/Euro external bearing bottom bracket. I'm not sure what your Roubaix uses, but within the past 5-6 years there's been a lot of different designs coming and going.


----------



## penn_rider

Thanks Dave!


----------



## Gregon2wheels

For folks who are riding these, is there any bottom bracket flex while climbing steep hills? I ride an older steel frame - a '97 customized Simonetti Pro Stradar Osso with Tange Prestige OS (oversized) tubing - and it does not flex for me. I've read some online complaints about some newer steel frames flexing due to thin wall narrow diameter tubing.

So for the folks riding this bike, do you have any bottom bracket flex or chainring rub when standing up climbing out of the saddle or sprinting? I'm 180 lbs right now and I don't race anymore. We have plenty of steep "walls" (~ 20% grade for a few hundred feet) around here that we ride, though, and plenty of rough roads.

Thanks.


----------



## Alumini

Dave, I just got my 2.0 and am currently setting it up. Could you perhaps post/pm the RAL code for the "grey" used?

Second question, why (and when) did you relocate the brake cable mounts on the top tube from bottom to top at one point in time? I see a lot of photos with the lower mount position but at my frame they are at the upper position.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## velo73

hello ritchey dave

any news on a better colour for the road logic yet?
maybe a white or green or more choices?
I just don't like the current colour much so I'm sorta holding out on buying


----------



## Alumini

Alumini said:


> Dave, I just got my 2.0 and am currently setting it up. Could you perhaps post/pm the RAL code for the "grey" used?
> 
> Second question, why (and when) did you relocate the brake cable mounts on the top tube from bottom to top at one point in time? I see a lot of photos with the lower mount position but at my frame they are at the upper position.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Question 2a: Why are the cable mounts at the top of the tube of my frame (53cm)? I am new to road bikes, but as far as I learned, they are never positioned at the top of the tube for road bikes.

Third question: The cable mounts don't really fit with my SRAM cable ferrules. Why is that and how can you fix that?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Alumini said:


> Dave, I just got my 2.0 and am currently setting it up. Could you perhaps post/pm the RAL code for the "grey" used?
> 
> Second question, why (and when) did you relocate the brake cable mounts on the top tube from bottom to top at one point in time? I see a lot of photos with the lower mount position but at my frame they are at the upper position.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


It's a Taiwan paint code so it might be hard to find a painter that can do anything with it but here it is: TC-7542

Cable guides were changed on the smaller sizes, a while ago, to enable a smoother cable line.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

The Road Logic will continue to come in the gun metal grey for another season.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Alumini said:


> Question 2a: Why are the cable mounts at the top of the tube of my frame (53cm)? I am new to road bikes, but as far as I learned, they are never positioned at the top of the tube for road bikes.
> 
> Third question: The cable mounts don't really fit with my SRAM cable ferrules. Why is that and how can you fix that?



Bring it back to the bike shop you bought it from and have them take a look and call us if they're noticing the same thing.


----------



## Peter P.

The poster may be using 4.5mm gear housing with the requisite ferrules instead of 4.0mm housing and ferrules.

I believe Jagwire sells housing kits in both sizes. See jagwireusa.com.

Brake housing only comes in 5.0mm size and the ferrules are larger to fit. When I took delivery of a new powdercoated steel frame I had trouble fitting some of the ferrules into the cable guides because powdercoat is thicker than paint and whoever engineered the housing ferrules never took into account the thickness of powdercoat. With some creative sanding of the inside of the housing stops everything fit fine. The poster may need to do the same thing, even though his frame is wet paint vs. powdercoat.


----------



## Alumini

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Bring it back to the bike shop you bought it from and have them take a look and call us if they're noticing the same thing.


Thanks for the reply. I bought it online at tnc-hamburg.com (Germany). I live 500 km from Hamburg.

While I can understand the reason for the positioning, the mounts do not seem to be the correct size to me. And for the "solutions" (nevertheless thank you for the input), I am certainly not going to buy a different cable set, nor am I going to use sandpaper to fix a $1000 frame. I bought a branded frame for a reason. Please see yourself if this is correct or not (perhaps I did make a mistake myself?):





















Thanks again.


----------



## aptivaboy

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The Road Logic will continue to come in the gun metal grey for another season.


Sound good. The classic red, white and blue paint would be super, as would any of the classic colors. The current grey just looks too carbony. 

Also, any chance that you'll make a larger size than 59 cm? I ride a 60cm ctc frame, and a 59 is simply too small for me - I've tried. 

Thank you for listening. 

Bob


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

aptivaboy said:


> Sound good. The classic red, white and blue paint would be super, as would any of the classic colors. The current grey just looks too carbony.
> 
> Also, any chance that you'll make a larger size than 59 cm? I ride a 60cm ctc frame, and a 59 is simply too small for me - I've tried.
> 
> Thank you for listening.
> 
> Bob



Thanks for the feedback. I'll make sure product development hears it.


----------



## zibip

Hi Dave
I'm trying to get the Road Logic frame in 59 size in Germany/Europe. Seems like a hopeless case... Some shops said that I should wait till the 2015 frames arrive probably in october, maybe end october. Any chance to get the 2014 frameset or are they totally sold out and I have to wait for 2015 frame?
Best regards
Zibip


----------



## Alumini

Alumini said:


> View attachment 298349
> View attachment 298350
> View attachment 298351


Dave, I would really appreciate a reply to my question. I would like to know why the mounts are that short and not like the ones in the following picture:








The ones on my frame look like half size.
[EDIT 20.09.] The Road Logic on EUROBIKE also had "full size" cable stops. 

I guess I have to make an official claim to Ritchey, as Dave does not seem to be active here anymore. I don't see why I should accept a frame that has on other occasion been confirmed as having shipped with incorrect cable stops. Read here.


----------



## seemana

Hey Alumini. You've got me thinking about my Road Logic now...I'll have to take a look when I get home. I feel like my cable stops look like yours.

Out of curiosity, are you experiencing any problems as a result of this? Or is is simply an aesthetics thing?


----------



## dawsoner

Those of you who have built these up how does the sizing run? I'm between 6'1" and 6'2" with a 34" inseam and I'm stuck between the 57cm and the 59cm. I normally ride a 58cm and wouldn't mind sizing up slightly in the name of comfort, but I noticed that the effective top tube on my current road bike is 568 and the effective top tube on this Ritchey is 590, seems like a big jump.


----------



## dawsoner

Those of you who have built these up how does the sizing run? What size do you ride and how tall are you?

I'm between 6'1" and 6'2" with a 34" inseam and I'm stuck between the 57cm and the 59cm. I normally ride a 58cm and wouldn't mind sizing up slightly for the sake of comfort, but I noticed that the effective top tube on my current road bike is 568 and the effective top tube on this Ritchey is 590, seems like a big jump.


----------



## Alumini

I am 176cm (that's about 5'9" I suppose) with a 33" inseam and ride the 53cm frame. Sizewise it fits perfectly for me, but that will not help you much.

You may want to calculate the "your personal stack" to (frame) reach ratio of your current bike and compare it to the Logic. You can find the reach values somewhere in this or the other Road Logic threads, "Ritchey Dave" posted them. The MERILETH Size Calculator page helps with calculating body proportions. Also consider your total reach from saddle tip to handle bars.

I was able to improve my position on the bike despite the longer top tube on the Ritchey, by changing to handle bars with short reach (from 120 to 80). I could even keep the 110mm stem that way. Had to increase spacers from 30 to 35mm due to the short head tube.

IMHO it is not possible to recommend you a frame size because we do not know about your current setup like saddle setback (or not), stem length and handle bar reach, if it's fine or could use some (or offers room for) improvement, etc..


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Alumini said:


> Dave, I would really appreciate a reply to my question. I would like to know why the mounts are that short and not like the ones in the following picture:
> View attachment 300246
> 
> 
> The ones on my frame look like half size.
> [EDIT 20.09.] The Road Logic on EUROBIKE also had "full size" cable stops.
> 
> I guess I have to make an official claim to Ritchey, as Dave does not seem to be active here anymore. I don't see why I should accept a frame that has on other occasion been confirmed as having shipped with incorrect cable stops. Read here.


Sorry Alumni, I was temporarily tied up at Interbike. 
Bring the frame back to the shop you bought it from and have them contact our warranty department.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

zibip said:


> Hi Dave
> I'm trying to get the Road Logic frame in 59 size in Germany/Europe. Seems like a hopeless case... Some shops said that I should wait till the 2015 frames arrive probably in october, maybe end october. Any chance to get the 2014 frameset or are they totally sold out and I have to wait for 2015 frame?
> Best regards
> Zibip


We're not changing Road Logics for 2014. Shops should be able to order a frame for you from our German distributer, Cosmic.


----------



## seemana

Alumini....I'm still curious if you're having problems as a result of the stops? Not trying to be a jerk, just wondering.


----------



## Alumini

Dave, thank you for the reply and the PM. The shop already sent me a return sticker. Perhaps they can contact your Warranty Department based on the photos first, though, as sending a frame requires some effort all in all. I'll sort that out. So far, so good, thanks.


----------



## Andreas_Illesch

Is this frame protected against corrosion on the inside?


----------



## tka

So my friend that owns a bike shop gives me a call on Friday and asks me to stop by the shop over the weekend, he has something for me. I have an open list of items for him to get me when he orders shop stock, so I figured he got something off the list, or he had another Campag Egro shifter that needs to be rebuilt. I walk in, he steps into the back room, pulls out a big box with "TR" on the side and asks me "Do you want it?" I took one look inside and said "YES!" I now own a 55cm Road Logic! 

He said he had an order going in last week and noticed that they had the frames in stock. He added one to the order figuring I would buy it, one of a couple other shop riders would buy it, or he would build it up as his personal bike. Next step will be to figure out what to build it up with. Which will be a little harder since he told me he's shutting down the shop at the end of the year. Seems he just can't stay in business catering to the few cyclist who don't go chasing the latest carbon marvel.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Andreas_Illesch said:


> Is this frame protected against corrosion on the inside?


They have some light corrosion treatment but depending on the weather where you ride it might be worth an extra coat.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tka said:


> So my friend that owns a bike shop gives me a call on Friday and asks me to stop by the shop over the weekend, he has something for me. I have an open list of items for him to get me when he orders shop stock, so I figured he got something off the list, or he had another Campag Egro shifter that needs to be rebuilt. I walk in, he steps into the back room, pulls out a big box with "TR" on the side and asks me "Do you want it?" I took one look inside and said "YES!" I now own a 55cm Road Logic!
> 
> He said he had an order going in last week and noticed that they had the frames in stock. He added one to the order figuring I would buy it, one of a couple other shop riders would buy it, or he would build it up as his personal bike. Next step will be to figure out what to build it up with. Which will be a little harder since he told me he's shutting down the shop at the end of the year. Seems he just can't stay in business catering to the few cyclist who don't go chasing the latest carbon marvel.


That's a bittersweet post. I love hearing about shops like this, with that personal touch and integrity to carry what they believe in rather than what's trendy. But sad to hear he's closing up. I wish more people would recognize the importance of shops like this. What's the name and location of the shop?


----------



## tka

Ritchey_Dave said:


> That's a bittersweet post. I love hearing about shops like this, with that personal touch and integrity to carry what they believe in rather than what's trendy. But sad to hear he's closing up. I wish more people would recognize the importance of shops like this. What's the name and location of the shop?


I'd love to give out the name and location of his shop but he asked me to keep it quiet, at least for the time being. He's trying to keep the repair and service part of the shop going but hasn't figured out how to do this yet. He doesn't want word of the shop closing to leak out until he figures out how to make this work.


----------



## dawsoner

What type/size ferrules are you guys using? My rear brake housing is flopping around way too much.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

dawsoner said:


> What type/size ferrules are you guys using? My rear brake housing is flopping around way too much.


PM me with your address and I'll send you out a set no charge.


----------



## mfdemicco

Does this frame need any frame prep, i.e. chasing BB threads and facing the bottom bracket shell and head tube?


----------



## seemana

mfdemicco said:


> Does this frame need any frame prep, i.e. chasing BB threads and facing the bottom bracket shell and head tube?


On mine, I had the BB faced. Nothing else needed any attention.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

mfdemicco said:


> Does this frame need any frame prep, i.e. chasing BB threads and facing the bottom bracket shell and head tube?


They don't typically _need_ it but it never hurts.


----------



## bpanahij

Check out my build, I think it looks pretty sweet. Yes, it also is very light, stiff, and very fun to ride.

Ritchey Road Logic 2.0


----------



## Justride

bpanahij said:


> Check out my build, I think it looks pretty sweet. Yes, it also is very light, stiff, and very fun to ride.
> 
> Ritchey Road Logic 2.0


Nice build! Looks sweet indeed. What frame size are you running there?


----------



## bpanahij

Thanks Justride. This is a 57cm frame.


----------



## mfdemicco

What is the torque value for the front brake to the fork? Thanks.


----------



## Peter P.

Shimano 70-85 in/lbs.
Campagnolo 90
Cane Creek 68-72
SRAM 70-90


----------



## tka

Speaking of front brakes, is there any issue with using the Campag toothed washer on the carbon fork?
View attachment 302446


----------



## tka

View attachment 302651


Together and ready to ride, but it doesn't have the final wheels on it yet. I have some Campag Record hubs being built-up with HED Belgium C2 rims but I haven't gotten them back from the wheel builder yet.


----------



## emilh

Ritchey_Dave said:


> We're working on a list. On of the guys in the office fit Specialized All Condition 28c tires on his bike so if their measuring system is consistent it's likely they'll fit.


Any updates on this?
I'm looking for some wide tubular tires to fit to my Road Logic before doing some cobbled sportives this spring.
In particular 27mm Vittoria Paves, FMB's or the new 28mm Schwalbe Ones.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tka said:


> Speaking of front brakes, is there any issue with using the Campag toothed washer on the carbon fork?
> View attachment 302446


Not a problem.


----------



## mfdemicco

tka said:


> View attachment 302651
> 
> 
> Together and ready to ride, but it doesn't have the final wheels on it yet. I have some Campag Record hubs being built-up with HED Belgium C2 rims but I haven't gotten them back from the wheel builder yet.


The color looks black. I thought the road model was anthracite.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tka said:


> View attachment 302651
> 
> 
> Together and ready to ride, but it doesn't have the final wheels on it yet. I have some Campag Record hubs being built-up with HED Belgium C2 rims but I haven't gotten them back from the wheel builder yet.



Looking good!


----------



## tka

mfdemicco said:


> The color looks black. I thought the road model was anthracite.


It is the anthracite. I took the picture with my iPhone under tungsten lights and didn't color correct (and I was too lazy to get the dslr and studio lights out) it so it looks dark, but the frame is the standard grey/anthracite color.


----------



## mfdemicco

I'm really loving my Road Logic. Beautiful handling through downhill corners, especially on initiating the turn. The ride is smooth and comfortable too.


----------



## trumpetbiker

on the swiss cross disc, will it be available in the red?


----------



## plussa

I'm planning on purchasing the frameset, but lack of information about front tire clearance makes me hesitate...

- Does Vittoria Pavé 27mm tubular fit?
- Does Challenge Paris-Roubaix 27 tubular fit?

Tubular sizes do not change depending of the rim width, so these should be very simple to answer.

Where's the list promised by RitcheyDave?


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

trumpetbiker said:


> on the swiss cross disc, will it be available in the red?


Not for this season. We haven't decided what V2's color will be yet. Red is a possibility.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

plussa said:


> I'm planning on purchasing the frameset, but lack of information about front tire clearance makes me hesitate...
> 
> - Does Vittoria Pavé 27mm tubular fit?
> - Does Challenge Paris-Roubaix 27 tubular fit?
> 
> Tubular sizes do not change depending of the rim width, so these should be very simple to answer.
> 
> Where's the list promised by RitcheyDave?


With tubular tires you do lose some variance (via rim with) but you still have the more prevalent variance of differing brands, psi in use in the tire, and rider weight. So it is still hard to determine and while we're working on a list of compatible tires for our forks, I have unfortunately not seen it yet. That being said, I haven't heard of anyone having issues with 27mm tires, so you should be good. It's at 28mm where we see some working and some not.


----------



## tka

Is there a torque spec for the seat tube binder bolt? I've tightening it to ""tight" with my (un)calibrated elbow but it seems just a little loose.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

tka said:


> Is there a torque spec for the seat tube binder bolt? I've tightening it to ""tight" with my (un)calibrated elbow but it seems just a little loose.


I always sandwich the rear of the bike with my legs and give the saddle a couple of hard twists. If the seatpost moves it's not tight enough, if it doesn't you're good.


----------



## nemeseri

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Not for this season. We haven't decided what V2's color will be yet. Red is a possibility.


Does anyone know what's the standover height of the Ritchey Logic 2.0 in size 49?
Am I right that at 5'7" with a 29.5" inseam that seems to be the right choice? Whenever I'm between sizes, I usually prefer the smaller frame.


----------



## Dallez

Much to my dismay, the Ritchey WCS 110mm stem I had custom painted to match my Road Logic is 10mm too long for me (as confirmed by a recent stem swap).

Seen here, post 19, earlier in the thread. 

I've decided to sell it, so if any of your are interested in it, shoot me a PM.


----------



## robt57

Get some bars with a 10mm shorter reach. ?? Puts the hoods where you want, and the tops by the stem 10mm out form the shorter stem with the same bars.
Tops 10mm out is good, to me anyway. 



Dallez said:


> Much to my dismay, the Ritchey WCS 110mm stem I had custom painted to match my Road Logic is 10mm too long for me (as confirmed by a recent stem swap).
> 
> Seen here, post 19, earlier in the thread.
> 
> I've decided to sell it, so if any of your are interested in it, shoot me a PM.


----------



## Dallez

Thanks robt57 for the suggestion, but I already went with Ritchey's Logic Curve short reach bars when I did my new build. I was coming from a size 55 effective TT on my old bike with zipp sl bars with a more reach and a 120mm stem. Going to a size 56 effective TT on the Road Logic and bars with shorter reach and a 110mm stem I thought would be perfect. But it turns out it was just a bit off. I've put a 100mm stem on it and it is very dialed in now.


----------



## robt57

Dallez said:


> Thanks robt57 for the suggestion, but I already went with Ritchey's Logic Curve short reach bars when I did my new build. I was coming from a size 55 effective TT on my old bike with zipp sl bars with a more reach and a 120mm stem. Going to a size 56 effective TT on the Road Logic and bars with shorter reach and a 110mm stem I thought would be perfect. But it turns out it was just a bit off. I've put a 100mm stem on it and it is very dialed in now.



Wanted to make sure the option was not overlooked. We took the custom made and paint matched stems off our Tandem once. And it bothered me enough see aluminum over nice slim/trim tig welded steel with that nice sparkle paint same as the frame, I replaced the both bars with reaches that allowed the original stems to go back om.


----------



## trumpetbiker

seemana said:


> Keep it dark and understated....this bike isn't made for flashy colors in my opinion.
> 
> First thing that pops in my head, what about something along the lines of "british racing green"? That could be real nice.
> 
> Edit to add: I have absolutely loved mine so far. Absolutely zero complaints! I highly recommend picking one up if you're on the fence :thumbsup:


add me to those who would love British racing green ------------ not too dark, along with the right crimson red accents at the stripes. too cool.


----------



## horacek001

Hi. I'm 6f1/33inch inseam. My current bike (compact) has a effective top tube of 570mm). Should I get the 55 or the 57 logic?


----------



## Peter P.

Definitely get the 57. The top tube length is more in line with your current bike which I presume fits fine. A 55cm frame would have way too much saddle to bar drop, and the top tube would be silly short for a +6 footer.


----------



## trumpetbiker

Peter P. said:


> Definitely get the 57. The top tube length is more in line with your current bike which I presume fits fine. A 55cm frame would have way too much saddle to bar drop, and the top tube would be silly short for a +6 footer.


57cm.

55cm will be way too short a top tube -----even if you have a shorter torso--------- at 6'-1" you may even wish to go longer with a longer stem when all is said and done. in addition, the steerer and head tube on the 57 will be longer, more proportionate to you're dims, and that plays a role.


----------



## tka

horacek001 said:


> Hi. I'm 6f1/33inch inseam. My current bike (compact) has a effective top tube of 570mm). Should I get the 55 or the 57 logic?


You're better off comparing reach and stack instead of effective top tube length and frame size. It makes for a more accurate comparison between frames.

I'm 5'11" with a 31.5" inseam. My 55cm Road Logic fits perfect. I think it would be okay for someone a little taller if you are comfortable with some drop between the saddle and the bars (I'm not.) I'm at 26 mm drop with a 90mm 84/96 stem set for a +6 rise and 25mm of spacers. If you have 1.5" more inseam and a longer stem you'll be in the ~50mm drop range. If that is okay with you then a 55 might work, but I think the 57 might be a better bet.


----------



## robt57

I am 6'1" and ride bikes with 58-60CM top tubes and 115-130mm stems, These numbers for guys around 6' are baffling to me. But sure makes the point the usefulness posting information about sizing can be down to the brass tacks.

I can't get a less than a 58 Top tube frame to work road bike wise. 24" minimum on MTBs. Carl Strong was the first one to catch this, bike shops where putting me on 56-57 bikes prior to that. When I got my Strong built up with a 58.8 Top tube I was amazed at how a bike could fit me. 

I must be a gorilla...


----------



## trumpetbiker

robt57 said:


> I am 6'1" and ride bikes with 58-60CM top tubes and 115-130mm stems, These numbers for guys around 6' are baffling to me. But sure makes the point the usefulness posting information about sizing can be down to the brass tacks.
> 
> I can't get a less than a 58 Top tube frame to work road bike wise. 24" minimum on MTBs. Carl Strong was the first one to catch this, bike shops where putting me on 56-57 bikes prior to that. When I got my Strong built up with a 58.8 Top tube I was amazed at how a bike could fit me.
> 
> I must be a gorilla...


@rob57, you may be stretched out, correctly------------ or you have a longer torso then I do.

and it can depend on your age, fitness level and flexibility as well. if someone doesn't ride often and doesn't have a strong core strength, or they have back issues(hey, who doesn't?!) then a shorter higher reach can be preferable. 

my advice is to go where ritchey is sold, get on a 55 and a 57 with standard stem lengths and find out in real life. build in the possibility of change, make the final decision on your current fitness level. mine changed within a year after getting in a lot better shape and my form stretching out. my stem length increased from 100 to 110 on my 57. I can ride a 55, but with a 120 stem. 

get fit by a good fitter, spend the money. easier to do that then sell and rebuy if you make the wrong misinformed decision.


----------



## horacek001

57 ordered. Cheers. One more Q- the retailer lists the frame as 'black' however it only comes in grey/black decals. A typo? Or does it also come in black? They aren't open until tomorrow to check.


----------



## Alumini

seemana said:


> Alumini....I'm still curious if you're having problems as a result of the stops? Not trying to be a jerk, just wondering.


For the sake of completeness:

(And sorry for the late reply.) The answer may depend on the definition of "problems". Functionality was not affected, if that's what you meant. The cable jackets do not hold well in the stops, they move in the stops when making a turn and the cables bend. Regular cable stops prevent that from happening.

I have returned the frame and will receive a new one end of February.


----------



## Justride

mbestudio said:


> Took delivery last week.
> View attachment 294640


Great looking build mbestudio! Can you tell me what frame size you are running? Cheers


----------



## trumpetbiker

Justride said:


> Great looking build mbestudio! Can you tell me what frame size you are running? Cheers


now thats a machine!!


----------



## trumpetbiker

Ritchey_Dave said:


> Looking good!


@ritchey dave, any plans to build not just a swiss cross disc frame, but a road disc frame in '15? I don't believe I've seen it.

the other question would be if the swiss cross disc would make a good full time road ride instead? seems its the bb drop drives the geometry on the biggest difference---------but what does that do to the overall road ride? does it make much difference?

anyone else want to chime in here? the drop may be a non factor for all but the pickiest? maybe just need to run a longer crank arm?


----------



## seek7

*Thanks for the help*

Just realized I never posted a pic of my road logic, after spending many grueling hours on the forum researching it. Still fussing it a little but, lots of thanks to ritchey Dave and the rest of you guys.


----------



## trumpetbiker

@see7, beautiful ride!

Has anyone here obtained the disc version and used it regularly for the road? What are the drawbacks, if any? I like the all-purpose idea of using the swisscross disc for both trails and road, not sure how practical it is. is there a stability or comfort issue over 60-70 mi ride, and can the difference be made up with a longer crank arm?

Lastly, no one has mentioned anywhere on the net as to what the Swisscross disc comes in at, weight wise w/out peddles, is that info available?


----------



## dr_lha

I don't ever post on here, but I found these threads helpful when researching what frame to buy. Anyway, here's my Ritchey Road Logic build. I'll note that since I built this, I replaced the tires with Michelin Pro4s with blue side walls, to match the rest of the blue thing I have going on. I love this bike!


----------



## tomasz

hi Guys,

Q regarding ritchey logic 2.0 frame from 2015 - does this frame have any improvements since 2013? Is the quality of tube joins the same?

Also, question about sizing. I'm 182cm with 84-85cm leg. So far I'm riding perfectly fitted cyclocross bike based on coticX frame:


Seat Tube (centre-top) 54cm
Top Tube Length 56.1cm
BB Drop 55mm
Reach 38.3cm
Stack 58.1cm

Will ritchey frame size 57 be OK for me?

Thanks for advice


----------



## Peter P.

I think the 57cm frame will be too large.

The 57cm Ritchey frame has a 57.5cm top tube-too long. You'd be better off with the 55cm Ritchey because the top tube length more nearly matches your "perfectly fitting" cyclocross frame.

A picture of your current frame would help confirm this.


----------



## tomasz

Hi Peter,

Thanks for your reply

My current build is on this picture:
https://i953.photobucket.com/albums/ae20/tomaszgomolka/CoticX/13_1.jpg

the frame dimensions which I gave above are classified as size 58 according cotic:

_The chart is a guide to frame size. Frames are a sloping top tube design, with actual seat tube lengths 4cm shorter than the frame size 'names', i.e the 58 frame has a 54cm seat tube. The frame names are given as a guide to your size based on a regular road frame, so if you normally ride a 58cm road frame, then a 58 >X< is a good start for our bike.

_I wouldn't mind if the top tube would be slightly longer. Cotic is perfect fit but it's a bit short on top... in purpose - due to riding offroad & on gravel. I need to be able to keep good control on the bike.

The concern regarding choosing right ritchey size is the seatube. As you can see on the picture, the seatpost in Cotic is already pretty high (for seat tube 54cm with BB drop 5.5cm) 
Ritchey's frame (57 size) has seat tube 54.5cm with bb drop 7cm. If I would go to size 55, I guess that the seat tube would be way too short...

So.. size advice would be very helpful 

Another question which I'm struggling with is the purpose of this ritchey frame. 
I use cotic for touring and going everywhere on gravel, tarmac, off-road and I want to stick to it. Cotic will definitely stay my no.1
I wanted to build my second bike - pure roadbike for fast training and races. 
Will ritchey frame be good for that? With all my love to steel I'm more & more thinking about purchasing standard, ugly carbon pure racer like canyon, rose etc with lightweight and ability of good climbing.

Any word of current ritchey logic would be appreciated as well 

cheers
Tomasz


----------



## Peter P.

Now that I see how your existing bike is set up, I have to change my recommendation.

Go up to the 57cm.

I agree with your comments about your Cotic's long, exposed seatpost. Sizing down on the Ritchey would result in even more exposure and the bike would look out of balance.

Next is your comment about not minding if the top tube were slightly longer. Taking that feedback into consideration with the seatpost issue tells me the 57 would be a better fit.

Steel frames are vastly under rated for performance bikes and have been ever since carbon took over the market. A steel frame will NOT hinder your go-fast aspirations.

I ought to know; steel is all I've ever ridden. My current road bike is a Soulcraft Royale.

I'd get a Ritchey in a heartbeat, and I'd be the coolest guy on the group ride!


----------



## tomasz

Thanks Peter, great help from your side - appreciate!


Last questions before I click "Add to the basket" 


- Does the frameset come with already installed headset cups? If I'm not mistaken they are press-fit right?
- is the bottom bracket shell faced and ready to be used or some maintenance must be performed?
- any issues with campagnolo groupsets in this frame? I plan to install Athena 11s with compact crank
- was the issue with frame cable guides solved finally? I'm about to buy this frame from 2015
Ritchey Road Logic Saga, read before purchase!!!! 

Cheers
T.


----------



## Peter P.

I can't accurately answer your questions.

Unless you're in a rush to buy the frame, you could post your questions directly to the Ritchey rep who follows this forum.


----------



## tomasz

Great thanks Peter. All questions answered, I just bought frameset 
Will take me some time to build the bike. Once it's done I'll post some pics. 
For the moment the plan is to put zondas, groupset athena and the rest with fizik cyrano set. Need to hunt for good promotions right now 

Thanks again for help
cheers
T.


----------



## pahu

*Size matters*

I'm new to this forum... also new to road cycling...
I'm looking for a road-bike. I like the Road Logic Frame. here in Switzerland i didn't find a Dealer who has a bike ready for a Testdrive. So i started to read everything about how to find the right size of the Frame...
I Made the measurements as noted in the Fit Calculator on competitive cyclist...
The Results are (Input Measurements):
Actual Inseam: 88cm
Trunk: 66cm
Forearm: 36cm
Arm: 71cm
Tigh: 62.5cm
Lower Leg: 54.5cm
Sternal Notch: 148.5cm
Total Height: 178cm
(Weight: 92kg)

As you can see, i'm fat and small. I'm looking for a relaxed position (Beginner). 
What do you think, which frame-size would be ok for me?
Any recommendations about components to use (i'm looking at Shimano 105)?

Thank you for the Help!

Patrick


----------



## robt57

What size did the site linked suggest, and do you not like what it suggested?


----------



## pahu

*Frame-Size*

I'm not sure, which size is suggested... The lenghts of Top Tube and Seat Tube are indicating Frame 57 or 59 (as fa as i can interprete the values). But i think, that 59 would be to big for me...


----------



## pahu

My problem is, that tha values for Top Tube lenght and Seat Tube lenght suggested by the calculator don't match up with the geometry of the Road logic Frame. As far as i can see, the Seat Tube is to short in relation to the Top Tube...


----------



## tomasz

Hello Patrick,

Welcome in the club. Greetings from Switzerland (I'm from canton Vaud)
Looking at your height I would suggest ritchey logic size 55. 
In my case I have 184cm, inseam 88cm and I took size 57 (thanks to this forum  ). My build is not finished yet so I can't give you a test ride. 

Those frames are generally low and long. I took 57 because I wanted to have a bit longer frame than my cyclocross frame (TT 56) and from first comparisons it looks I took right size for me. 
If you already have a road bike and it fits for you well, then it would be easier to match proper size for you. The most important figure is a "reach" in this geometry. Don't look at the seat tube height, it's very misleading. TT and reach will tell you the right size.

I bought my frame from bike24.com. They have the best price you can find and there is last 55 size frame on their stock. They will exclude VAT for Swiss so the price of the frameset will be below 700EUR. Service is excellent so I highly recommend.

As for the components I would't go with shimano 105 but it's a matter of taste. I'm building mine with campy athena 11 black, wheels will be fulcrum racing 3, stem, handlebar, seatpost ritchey wet white, bartape light blue. 

Good luck

Cheers
Tomasz


----------



## pahu

Hi Thomasz

could you tell me, when your build would be finished?
Would it be possible to have a look at your bike when it's finished?

Gruess

Patrick


----------



## tomasz

pahu said:


> Hi Thomasz
> 
> could you tell me, when your build would be finished?
> Would it be possible to have a look at your bike when it's finished?
> 
> Gruess
> 
> Patrick


I plan to finish it during this winter. I don't want to loose the season now so I cycle as much as I can on current bike and I'm collecting parts on the same time for ritchey's build. 

If it's not too late for you then of course you can have a look and make a test ride if you want

Cheers
Tomasz


----------



## pahu

This would be a little late...

I will contact you with some questions about the componentes by pm (if it's ok for you?)...


----------



## tomasz

no problem
cheers


----------



## Frosty

Hi there, 

I have been following this thread and others for a while but haven't posted anything. 

In March this year, I decided to order a frame (55cm), and received it last week. The build is nearly complete and should be ready for a good, long ride this weekend.

Weight wasn't an issue and I wanted as little carbon fibre as possible. So here is a "first look" at my new ride.









Shimano 105, 11-speed gruppo
Fulcrum Racing 3 wheelset
Ritchey stem, spacers, bar, seat post, saddle and bottle cages (carbon fibre).
Lizard Skin bar tape.
Vredenstein tyres and tubes.


----------



## tomasz

Hi Frosty,

Looks sweet 

Can you share with us your dimensions - height, inseam etc? How does 55 size fit you? what stem length did you use?

Cheers
T.


----------



## Frosty

Hi Tomasz,

It was all based on my current bike setup, and comparing the critical dimensions between both bikes. Fortunately the local bike shop owner rides a 55cm, so I was able to measure his bike. After setting up the correct saddle height and for/aft setting, I could measure the saddle to handle bar length and work from there.

There's a 2mm difference in stack height, so I added a 5mm spacer above the stem and turned the stem down to get the saddle height to bar height as close to my current setup.

My height is 182cm with an inseam of 88cm.

Stem: 90mm with a 10mm spacer. I have longer legs and a shorter torso/reach.

The settings are also based on a professional bike setup.

I will only get to ride the bike on Saturday morning. I will give better feedback after the ride - should be about 140km, so a decent distance to get some good feedback.

Regards, 
Frosty


----------



## tomasz

Thanks for quick reply and sharing details.
I was debating between size 55 and 57. I have inseam 88/89 and height 184cm and finally have taken 57 with stem 90mm as well. Wondering how it will fit...

Do you have picture showing seatpost/saddle height? 

Let us know your feeling after the ride. I guess it will be very useful as many people were asking about frame sizing advice

Regards
T.


----------



## Frosty

I'll post more photos and feedback over the weekend. I'm only collecting the bike tomorrow.


----------



## pahu

Hi Frosty

This is more or less the bike i like to build (no white Wheelcenters )...
I'm very interested in your feedback after the first ride...


----------



## Frosty

So my first ride is done, but not the full planned distance due to the colder than expected weather (-4.5°C). Early winter mornings are cold in Johannesburg (South Africa) and while it usually dips to 2-5°C at sunrise and warms up to 15-20°C during the day, this weekend was the exception and the reason for us (local club) aborting our ride after 42km. The coffee at the local takeaway was welcomed.

Below is the complete bike (first from the drive side, and then the other side) as well as the bottle cages (also Ritchey branded).






















*Setup:*
I had previously ridden a 55cm (the LBS owner's bike) and I was amazed how stiff the steel frame was, when I compare it to my carbon bike (Schwinn Peloton Pro). 

From a setup point of view, the virtual top tube length on both my road bikes are identical (one branded as 55cm, the other 56cm). Once my saddle is set to 775mm from the BB (c-t), the drop from saddle to bars is 85mm compared to my Schwinn setup at 80mm. The reach from saddle to bars is the 1cm longer on the Ritchey compared to the Schwinn.

*First Impressions:
*Road surfaces range from super smooth tar, to a rough "chip-n-spray" to patch works at random intervals. I was impressed with the handling over the rougher section compared to the carbon feel. Difficult to explain, but the carbon frame feels like it vibrates/rattles going over the bumps while the steel frame is like a solid object that doesn't have anything that can rattle.

I didn't weigh the bike before riding it, even though I had a theoretical weight. I wanted to ride it without any comparison to my current ride. The early morning club ride is geared for the faster, race-snakes in our club - a 34Km circular route at about 33-35km/h average (including stopping at red-light intersections).














I could feel that it was heavier (on the drags), and when I eventually got round to climbing on the scale, I was surprised to learn there was a 500g difference. Dura-Ace (2007) on the Schwinn vs 105 (2015) on the Ritchey. Now that I know the difference, there is no need to keep my Schwinn as a race bike - the Ritchey is certainly capable of doing the job. But I shall keep this bike as the one for those long, steady, coffee-ride days.

The full specs:

Ritchey Road Logic 2.0, 55cm;
Ritchey carbon fork;
Ritchey headset;
Ritchey components, mostly WCS alloy:
stem - 90mm;
bars - Logic II Streem, 42cm;
seat post - 350mm;
saddle - ZeroMax;
bottle cages, carbon;
spacers - 1x 10mm and 1x 5mm (UD carbon);

Shimano 105, 11-speed, 53/39T, 11-28;
Shimano 105 SPD-SL pedals (2008 model, if I remember correctly);
Shimano, braze-on adaptor (FD);
Lizard Skin, 1.8mm bar tape;
Fulcrum Racing 3 wheelset (2015);
Vredestein Fiammante tyres, 700c-23.

Total weight - 8.8Kg (including rear light and GPS out-front mount). It's not a 6.8Kg UCI approved racing bike, but I certainly didn't buy all this for that reason. I can still race competitively in my age category (Masters, 40-44 - or Vet's racing as we call it) on a steel frame with mid-range spec'd components.


----------



## burgrat

Very nice. That's a great looking bike! Thanks for the post


----------



## Peter P.

Thanks for the review. Real world bike reports are invaluable.


----------



## pahu

ok, now i need definitely one of those...

Will have an appointment for fitting to get the right frame-size this week...

patrick


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

Thanks for sharing. Bike looks fantastic, great build. One of our office hot shots has been racing one in the local Cat 1/2 crit races and says he feels zero compromise going from his full carbon fiber Cannondale.


----------



## pahu

Had an appointment with a bike-fitter today. The guy is a physiotherapist. He bought a complete Shimano Bikefitting.com equipment and made the training.
I don't know, if the results from this session are correct, but who kows...
I ordered all the parts today at bike24.de (Frame 55cm)... i hope they deliver fast so i can start the build... I ordered also most of the needed tools (except the tools for the crank-bearings)... 
I'm a little bit thrilled...

As soon as i start the build, i will post a list of the components (and the total costs)...

patrick



<tbody>

</tbody>


----------



## Doktorbobby

Hey Guys. Never posted on here before.
Read this thread in detail though before purchasing my Ritchey Logic. 

Really loving it so far. It's replaced my BMC Racemachine, as I'm no longer racing, so there is obviously a sacrifice on the weight, but I'm not si fussed on that with this build. Only done about 200km since i built it at the weekend, but first impressions are great. So much comfier than an previous carbon bikes, yet still snappy. Deffo still a race bike! I have a custom made Talbot Frameworks steel/carbon bike, but that only comes out on dry days, so this will get a good amount of use over the winter.

Built up using Ultegra 6800, with CK R45 hubs on HED Belgium+ rims (So nice!). 3T finishing kit. no idea of the overall weight, as im not that fussed on it to be honest!

I did the paint myself, and painted the seat post and stem to match. Not to everybody's taste, but i dig it, and thats all that counts!


----------



## trumpetbiker

nice, Dok --------love the paintjob. these ritchey frames are traditional looking modern works of art, love em.


----------



## plussa

Great looking bike Doktorbobby! That seatpost makes it look like it has ISP

Hairy fork legs?


----------



## Doktorbobby

plussa said:


> Great looking bike Doktorbobby! That seatpost makes it look like it has ISP
> 
> Hairy fork legs?



Yeah, my other bike has is a steel frame with a carbon ISP, and i really like the look, so thought I'd give this one a simmilar look. the lack of a seatpost collar really helps.

The fork is rain camo... although a few people have said it looks like hairy legs!


----------



## suspence

hello forum - after much lurking on here, i decided to pony up and go the logic way... i just took delivery of the frame to build up - but... before i build it up - are these cable stops gonna cause me problems ? is this one of the semi notorious older frames ? they look different to most on here.


----------



## trumpetbiker

I don't have my ritchey yet, but I'd find it hard to believe that they'd send you a frame, especially a new one, with obsolete components. those look like they'd work well to me. show us the whole frame, show....show....


----------



## dr_lha

suspence said:


> hello forum - after much lurking on here, i decided to pony up and go the logic way... i just took delivery of the frame to build up - but... before i build it up - are these cable stops gonna cause me problems ? is this one of the semi notorious older frames ? they look different to most on here.
> 
> View attachment 310891
> View attachment 310892


Those cable stops look the same as the ones on my Road Logic, which have been problem free for over 2000 miles of riding so far.


----------



## suspence

thanks - here is another view


----------



## Frosty

Here's my setup with the cables.


----------



## mfdemicco

Ritchey is known to be a gram shaver, so it isn't surprising that those cable stops are so minimalist.


----------



## richym

*Light weight riders*



mfdemicco said:


> Ritchey is known to be a gram shaver, so it isn't surprising that those cable stops are so minimalist.


Hello, I am new here.

I am interested in the Ritchie Road Logic. I am 145lbs and wanted to find anyone out there who is in my weight range and who has the Ritchie road bike? I would like to know if it rides comfortably over rougher road surfaces? I have an aluminium frame and its stiff and all that, but once you start going of the rough stuff it feels pretty bad and unforgiving after a while. It has a nice turn of speed and accelerates nicely but I have come to realise that I would sacrifice some stiffness for comfort when many of the roads in my country aren't that great. I am also not Marcel Kittel so I don't need the stiffest bike as I don't produce mega power!

Your opinion will be much appreciated, Thanks!


----------



## pahu

Set-up Shimano 105 5800 front derailleur... Has anybody some pictures of the front derailleur on the frame. In my case it's a little complicated to setup to work properly...
The clearance to the tyre is very little...
Thanks patrick


----------



## Frosty

Here we go, 105 (5800) front derailleur. Let know if you want other angles.


----------



## pahu

hi frosty, didn't you have any problem with the clearance between the lever and the tire? No problem with setting up of the derailleur?


----------



## Frosty

No, no problems at all.

The clearance is more than 5mm, perhaps closer to 10mm.

My derailleur is a braze-on type.


----------



## pahu

Ok.. So maybee i just have to try harder 

I'll be in the workshop tomorrow and test it out once again...


----------



## mfdemicco

richym said:


> Hello, I am new here.
> 
> I am interested in the Ritchie Road Logic. I am 145lbs and wanted to find anyone out there who is in my weight range and who has the Ritchie road bike? I would like to know if it rides comfortably over rougher road surfaces? I have an aluminium frame and its stiff and all that, but once you start going of the rough stuff it feels pretty bad and unforgiving after a while. It has a nice turn of speed and accelerates nicely but I have come to realise that I would sacrifice some stiffness for comfort when many of the roads in my country aren't that great. I am also not Marcel Kittel so I don't need the stiffest bike as I don't produce mega power!
> 
> Your opinion will be much appreciated, Thanks!


It rides great, especially with 25c tires (80 psi front, 95 psi rear). I weigh 185 lbs.


----------



## Velohome

what did you use to attache the derailleur to the frame? Kind of clamp or something? Last thing for me to sort out before ordering the frame.


----------



## tka

Velohome said:


> what did you use to attache the derailleur to the frame? Kind of clamp or something? Last thing for me to sort out before ordering the frame.


Assuming that you are using a braze-on front derailleur you will need a braze-on front derailleur adapter for a 28.6mm tube. Everyone I know uses the Problem Solvers adapter, and that is all we stock in the shop. If you go with the Shimano adapter you will need to get one for a 31.8mm seat tube and use a shim to get it to work on the 28.6mm.


----------



## mfdemicco

tka said:


> Assuming that you are using a braze-on front derailleur you will need a braze-on front derailleur adapter for a 28.6mm tube. Everyone I know uses the Problem Solvers adapter, and that is all we stock in the shop. If you go with the Shimano adapter you will need to get one for a 31.8mm seat tube and use a shim to get it to work on the 28.6mm.


The Ultegra derailleur I bought came with the shim.


----------



## dr_lha

tka said:


> Assuming that you are using a braze-on front derailleur you will need a braze-on front derailleur adapter for a 28.6mm tube. Everyone I know uses the Problem Solvers adapter, and that is all we stock in the shop. If you go with the Shimano adapter you will need to get one for a 31.8mm seat tube and use a shim to get it to work on the 28.6mm.


Ditto on that. I also used the Problem Solvers braze-on adapter and it worked a treat. The groupset I bought to build my bike came with a braze-on FD, and honestly it feels like a better solution than having to use a regular derailleur with a shim.


----------



## Frosty

I've got the Shimano shims, which to be honest doesn't bother me that much. I couldn't find the Problem Solver in black when I ordered the rest of my components online.


----------



## dr_lha

Frosty said:


> I've got the Shimano shims, which to be honest doesn't bother me that much. I couldn't find the Problem Solver in black when I ordered the rest of my components online.


Here's where I got mine:

Problem Solvers Braze-on Derailleur Adaptor Clamp 28.6mm Slotted Black | Bikewagon


----------



## mfdemicco

Deleted.


----------



## Velohome

Dear tka,

thanks for you help, you described exactly what i thought is necessary to do. The problem solver adapter s sometimes difficult to get here in europe, but it think there are some alternatives to get here. Will use the usual 105/5800 derailleur, so it should work that way.


----------



## Velohome

Yeah, got today the mail from the bikeshop, the frame arrived... great!


----------



## T K

I am seriously close to buying one of these. One question though. I just sold my Soma Smoothie and am about to sell the Caad 10 and be a one bike does it all guy. Looking at the dropouts has me worried. Does this frame work on a trainer. Those look like breezer style wich I thought wouldn't work. Anybody know? Thanks.


----------



## dr_lha

T K said:


> I am seriously close to buying one of these. One question though. I just sold my Soma Smoothie and am about to sell the Caad 10 and be a one bike does it all guy. Looking at the dropouts has me worried. Does this frame work on a trainer. Those look like breezer style wich I thought wouldn't work. Anybody know? Thanks.


I suppose it depends on the trainer you have, but I have a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine and it works fine.


----------



## Makando

T K said:


> I am seriously close to buying one of these. One question though. I just sold my Soma Smoothie and am about to sell the Caad 10 and be a one bike does it all guy. Looking at the dropouts has me worried. Does this frame work on a trainer. Those look like breezer style wich I thought wouldn't work. Anybody know? Thanks.


I train on this bike with a TACX Vortex Smart. No issues either.


----------



## T K

Thanks guys. I have a Cycle ops fluid. It just did not look like enough room to get in those dropouts.


----------



## tomasz

Dear Ritchey Experts,

I need some advice from you. Hope you can help.

As mentioned few pages before I bought Ritchey Road Logic v2 frameset from bike24.de. All came new, originally packed including the headsets, no complains.

Now I started the build and got stuck on headset topic. I have massive amount of play which I can't eliminate. Either I did something wrong with the installation or I got incorrect headset type

I did the installation like on below picture
https://www.aoscooters.com/administ...tion/media/images/09b7_Install crown race.jpg

From bottom: Fork->grey metal ring (cut one)->lower bearing ->upper bearing->black metal ring ->tiny metal washer->upper cover

Bearings which came with my frameset are drop-in type and marked as 
*41.8x30.5* 
*45x45*
Both (bottom and top one) are identical.
Bottom seems to be OK, but top one doesn't seems to fit properly. 

See pictures with part of carbon steering tube which I cut. Bearing and compression plug seems to be too large to this steering tube.

All elements of top part of headset
[/URL]

Bearing with part of steering tube inside
[/URL]

Compression plug
[/URL]

Can it be that black metal ring is a ‘crown race’ and the grey metal one is a ‘compression plug’ which should go on top? 

Thanks
Tomasz


----------



## tka

tomasz said:


> From bottom: Fork->grey metal ring (cut one)->lower bearing ->upper bearing->black metal ring ->tiny metal washer->upper cover


Your order is wrong. It should be from bottom:Fork-> *black metal ring* ->lower bearing ->upper bearing->*grey metal ring (cut one)* ->tiny metal washer->upper cover



tomasz said:


> Can it be that black metal ring is a ‘crown race’ and the grey metal one is a ‘compression plug’ which should go on top?


That is correct - the black solid ring is the crown race and the grey split ring is the compression plug. 

On the bearings the gold tapered side goes towards the frame, the seal faces out(away) from the frame.


----------



## dawsoner

Does anybody know the torque spec for

1. The compression plug (not the top cap, just the plug)?
2. Front brake (attaching it to the fork)?


----------



## tka

BTW, you'll probably need something like a crown race setter to properly seat the crown race. If you don't have one check if your local shop can do it. It takes less than a minute and should be a minimal cost.


----------



## tomasz

many thanks @tka
such a rookie mistake... :/

I have home-made tool to set the crown race. That won't be a problem

Cheers
Tomasz


----------



## tka

dawsoner said:


> Does anybody know the torque spec for
> 
> 1. The compression plug (not the top cap, just the plug)?
> 2. Front brake (attaching it to the fork)?


For #2 see post 201 in this topic


Peter P. said:


> Shimano 70-85 in/lbs.
> Campagnolo 90
> Cane Creek 68-72
> SRAM 70-90


These are the manufacturer's recommended torques.


----------



## tka

tomasz said:


> many thanks @tka
> such a rookie mistake... :/
> 
> I have home-made tool to set the crown race. That won't be a problem
> 
> Cheers
> Tomasz


You won't make the mistake again  At least that's what I find after I do something like this.


----------



## Peter P.

T K said:


> Thanks guys. I have a Cycle ops fluid. It just did not look like enough room to get in those dropouts.


For a frame of reference: The Kurt Road Machine's non-drive side cup measures 31mm in diameter. The drive side cup measures 25mm. Both numbers are outer diameter.


----------



## OneGoodKnee

Any one fitted a Campagnolo Ultra Torque 39/53 chainset to a Roadlogic frame ?
I’ve tried with mine and it would appear it is not compatible
The chain ring bolts hit the chainstay long before the chainset is torqued up.
The compact version fits, but clearances are a bit tight.
I think this is only an issue with these UT chainsets as I’ve tried the older square taper Campagnolo 39/53 chain set and an old ocatlaink Dura ace 39/53 and these go in without issue.
I know other frames are not compatible with these Campag UT chainsets.
Just a heads up if someone is thinking of fitting one, and it would be good if Ritchey stated somewhere that they are not compatible.


----------



## tka

I have a 2014 Record UT 39/53 in my Road Logic. The clearance is a little tight but it hasn't touched the chainstay in the ~3,000 miles I have on mine. Says a lot of the Road Logic's stiffness. (More likely says more about my awesome power output.:wink5 I don't know if will fit but it is possible but do you have Power-Torque BB cups in there instead of Ultra-Torque?


----------



## tka

View attachment 312807


Here's a picture of the clearance - like I said it is tight but it hasn't touched yet!


----------



## Peter P.

All cranks are designed to meet certain chainline criteria. That is, the chainrings must line up a specified distance from the centerline of the bicycle so the chainrings are centered about the cassette.

Some frames, specifically some cyclocross frames, have chainring size limitations such as "inner chainring max. size "X". Some 'cross frames can't accept a road sized inner chainring like a 39T. I merely mention this as an example. I'd like to think your Road Logic frame can fit a 39T inner ring as that's pretty common for a road bike. Something else must be going on if other cranks fit fine. Can spacers be mounted on the drive side bearing cup without compromising installation of the crankarms?


----------



## OneGoodKnee

Interesting – Thanks for the replies, if I could get that sort of clearance I’d be happy.
I’ve been riding the bike for a year with the compact – I just assumed the UT 39/53 was a no go.
I have UT cups fitted, BB shell is faced within spec (68mm). Couldn’t shim it as these UT cranks aren’t so adaptable, width between bearings is critical and I don’t think I’ve got enough play to add a sufficiently thick shim. The Compact version of the same crank fits fine, no lateral play and spins freely.
My cranks are 2010 Centaur Carbon versions- don’t know if 2014 Record versions are different – the ring bolt heads on mine protrude quite a bit, I don’t see yours in the photo.
Chainline looks fine, BB seams central. Pictures below show Compact fitted. (ruler is crap – missing 1.5mm from start, but you get the idea)


----------



## tka

View attachment 312841

It doesn't look much different, but my ruler _does_ have the first 1.5mm.

And the chain ring bolts are countersunk so they are flush with the chain ring.


----------



## Peter P.

You should be measuring to the center of the space between the two chainrings. I believe the typical chainline measurement is 43.5mm. Given the photos, that looks pretty close.

Why don't you contact the Ritchey Rep, who has a long running thread on this forum? I've actually e-mailed Ritchey Designs directly from their web site and received a response to a tech question. I'd be curious what they say.


----------



## tka

Peter P. said:


> You should be measuring to the center of the space between the two chainrings. I believe the typical chainline measurement is 43.5mm. Given the photos, that looks pretty close.


I was trying to get my picture to match OneGoodKnee's so a comparison could be made since my 39/53 clears and his doesn't.

Campagnolo specs chainline as 43.5mm from the center of the Hirth Joint to the inside edge of the big chain ring, and that the Hirth joint is centered on the seat tube.
View attachment 312843


----------



## OneGoodKnee

Thanks for the images TKA, they do appear pretty similar.

I'm happy with the compact, if I ever get back to TwoGoodKnees then I might miss the 39/53 but I'll just have to fit a non Campag version.

I did e-mail the Ritchey people in Europe many months ago. They asked for pictures and measurements etc. I sent them, but they never got back. I said that I thought it was probably just an issue with the UT 39/53 and not a frame issue, just a compatibility issue. I took their lack of reply as simply confirmation of this.

I love the bike, not complaining about it, just disappointed when the 39/53 didn't fit and I was interested to see if anyone else had other experiences with these UT chainsets.
TKA has shown me it is possible, albeit with a different (newer) version UT crank.

Thanks all.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

OneGoodKnee said:


> Thanks for the images TKA, they do appear pretty similar.
> 
> I'm happy with the compact, if I ever get back to TwoGoodKnees then I might miss the 39/53 but I'll just have to fit a non Campag version.
> 
> I did e-mail the Ritchey people in Europe many months ago. They asked for pictures and measurements etc. I sent them, but they never got back. I said that I thought it was probably just an issue with the UT 39/53 and not a frame issue, just a compatibility issue. I took their lack of reply as simply confirmation of this.
> 
> I love the bike, not complaining about it, just disappointed when the 39/53 didn't fit and I was interested to see if anyone else had other experiences with these UT chainsets.
> TKA has shown me it is possible, albeit with a different (newer) version UT crank.
> 
> Thanks all.


I wanted to do some research on my end before I answered. I just got an email response today from my European office that they had been clued into this by you, and unfortunately it appears that, despite their drawings and measurements (which is what we go off of when designing), Campagnolo Ultra Torque 39/53 cranks uses bolts that stick out in the back and interfere with the stays and are incompatible with our frame. No fix has yet to be made. Sorry about that.


----------



## OneGoodKnee

Thanks Dave
as I suspected, its just an issue with this crank. I think the newer versions have countersunk ring bolts.
There is an easy fix - fit another crank, virtually any other crank.

I found a more radical approach on the net from this builder.....

MEECH Custom Bicycles: May 2013

“Perfect fit. Campy Ultra-Torque cranks provide the least amount of clearance with these chain stays so if I can make them fit then I know most other brands will also. This is actually a 53/39 tooth chainring setup, so thats why it is as tight as it is. This is actually built for a cyclocross crankset and that will provide even more room”.



I don't think I'll be getting the hacksaw out any time soon.

Here's an image of my problematic UT chainring bolts. 
They doth protrude too much, methinks.


----------



## ceugene

OneGoodKnee said:


> I found a more radical approach on the net from this builder.....


Yikes!


----------



## Migen21

"Yikes" was my exact thought when I saw that. You must *really really really* like your cranks to do that to a frame to accommodate them.


----------



## Ritchey_Dave

That can't be real!


----------



## tka

I changed tires this spring from Conti Hardshells to Conti GP 4000 S II and now I have a clearance issue. On my last ride on the bike last fall I road thru a pile of leaves on the side of the road. Some nice person hid a a 4" thick chunk of steel in the leaves. Somehow I did no damage to the front tire but dented the rear HED Belgium+ and cut the Hardshell. Lesson learned, don't ride thru the leaves.

Both tires are 25mm but the GP 4000 hits the underside of my Chorus Skeleton brake. There is plenty of clearance around the fork, and the Hardshells cleared the brake by 3-4 mm. I've managed to adjust the Skeleton brake to give me about 1 mm clearance, but with the spring road conditions this is causing the brake to act like a old tire saver. 

Anyone else running Conti GP 4000 S II on their Road Logic, and do you have adequate clearance at the brake? I'm planning on changing the brake to get better clearance and want to know if an Ultegra or DA gives better clearance. Or if there is another brake that works better I'll get that instead. The last option is to pull the pre-Skeleton brake from my commuter and put that on the Road Logic, but that will only work if the Skeleton brake clears the 28mm tires on the commuter which I doubt it will.


----------



## mfdemicco

tka said:


> I changed tires this spring from Conti Hardshells to Conti GP 4000 S II and now I have a clearance issue. On my last ride on the bike last fall I road thru a pile of leaves on the side of the road. Some nice person hid a a 4" thick chunk of steel in the leaves. Somehow I did no damage to the front tire but dented the rear HED Belgium+ and cut the Hardshell. Lesson learned, don't ride thru the leaves.
> 
> Both tires are 25mm but the GP 4000 hits the underside of my Chorus Skeleton brake. There is plenty of clearance around the fork, and the Hardshells cleared the brake by 3-4 mm. I've managed to adjust the Skeleton brake to give me about 1 mm clearance, but with the spring road conditions this is causing the brake to act like a old tire saver.
> 
> Anyone else running Conti GP 4000 S II on their Road Logic, and do you have adequate clearance at the brake? I'm planning on changing the brake to get better clearance and want to know if an Ultegra or DA gives better clearance. Or if there is another brake that works better I'll get that instead. The last option is to pull the pre-Skeleton brake from my commuter and put that on the Road Logic, but that will only work if the Skeleton brake clears the 28mm tires on the commuter which I doubt it will.


Yes, I run 25 mm 4000S II's with Ultegra brakes. No problems with clearance, especially on the rear. Rim width makes a difference; the wider the rim, the less clearance you will have all around. I kinda wish I had more fork clearance, but the brake itself clears the tire just fine. You might try 23s. The 4000S 23s actually measure 25mm when mounted on my Ultegra 10 speed wheels. The 25s about 27.5mm.


----------



## DHG

My new Ritchey logic. 7.2 kg as is without pedals/7.5 with.

I really don t understand why the picture is shown upside down.


----------



## Gregzilla

tka said:


> Anyone else running Conti GP 4000 S II on their Road Logic, and do you have adequate clearance at the brake?


I just attempted to install 28mm GP4000S II in the front - at 70psi. I'm using the WCS Zeta II wheels and Ultegra 6800 brakes. It has 2-3mm of side clearance in the fork and the brake, but the center seems to JUST rub both the fork and the brake on two small spots in the tire's rotation, and has less than 0.5mm (a half) millimeter clearance around the rest of the rotation.

I'm going to try a 25mm Conti GP 4000 S II and see how that works. The bike came with (I bought the full bike) 25mm Ritchey WCS Race Slicks, so I imagine the 25mm Contis will work fine.

The 28mm:


----------



## trumpetbiker

Gregzilla said:


> I just attempted to install 28mm GP4000S II in the front - at 70psi. I'm using the WCS Zeta II wheels and Ultegra 6800 brakes. It has 2-3mm of side clearance in the fork and the brake, but the center seems to JUST rub both the fork and the brake on two small spots in the tire's rotation, and has less than 0.5mm (a half) millimeter clearance around the rest of the rotation.
> 
> I'm going to try a 25mm Conti GP 4000 S II and see how that works. The bike came with (I bought the full bike) 25mm Ritchey WCS Race Slicks, so I imagine the 25mm Contis will work fine.
> 
> The 28mm:
> View attachment 315234
> 
> View attachment 315235
> 
> View attachment 315236


same thing that happened with my ritchey forks/brakes, just too tight. do any new ritchey road models take 28's?


----------



## dr_lha

If you want more the 25's get a Swiss Cross instead. Some 28s will fit the Road Logic, but that's just because not all 28s are made equal.


----------



## trumpetbiker

no offense, dr, but I don't own a ritchey bike. I own 3 ritchey forks and they are on 3 diff road bikes.

"the new black" as they would say in bike terms is "28 is the new 25". 

the new forks should accomadate up to 28 to match all competitors, marketingwise and functionally. no aero reason not to. it is shortsightedness for the sake of more cost savings based on retooling, I think.

the swiss cross is a beautiful ride, one I'd love to have. but keep in mind the geometry is cross based with a higher BB and meant more for off pavement. for someone who rides 95% paved roads, it isn't the ride of choice when comparing to an 853 frame designed for road. the Ritchey Road Logic YES = but again, no 28 on that one either...why?!


----------



## dr_lha

trumpetbiker said:


> no offense, dr, but I don't own a ritchey bike. I own 3 ritchey forks and they are on 3 diff road bikes.
> 
> "the new black" as they would say in bike terms is "28 is the new 25".


I'm aware of the trends in cycling towards fatter tires. I myself own a monster cross bike that has 700x40 tires on it, as well as a cross bike that I rode with 700x32s.

My Road Logic has 700x23s on it, like it or not, it's designed to be a somewhat old school road bike, that means 23s and 25s, and 28 at a push (meaning, not all 28s will fit). 

Will Ritchey release forks in the future to meet the trend of fatter tires? Who knows? Probably?


----------



## mfdemicco

dr_lha said:


> I'm aware of the trends in cycling towards fatter tires. I myself own a monster cross bike that has 700x40 tires on it, as well as a cross bike that I rode with 700x32s.
> 
> My Road Logic has 700x23s on it, like it or not, it's designed to be a somewhat old school road bike, that means 23s and 25s, and 28 at a push (meaning, not all 28s will fit).
> 
> Will Ritchey release forks in the future to meet the trend of fatter tires? Who knows? Probably?


If they did, they probably won't clear the brake arch. You can only go so wide with dual pivot brakes. 

As I mentioned in my post above, Conti 4000S 25C tires actually measure 27.5 mm on my wheels and fit my Ritchey. I would bet that those Conti 28s above are probably couple of mm more than 28mm wide.


----------



## mfdemicco

Anyone tried cross routing their derailleur cables under the down tube? I was thinking of trying that to keep the cable housings from rubbing on the head tube.


----------



## tka

mfdemicco said:


> As I mentioned in my post above, Conti 4000S 25C tires actually measure 27.5 mm on my wheels and fit my Ritchey. I would bet that those Conti 28s above are probably couple of mm more than 28mm wide.


After playing around with different brakes and not being entirely happy with the results I finally put a 23mm Conti 4000SII on the front and got the clearance I was looking for. FWIW the 23mm measures 26.4mm and the 25mm measures 28.7 on HED Belgium+ rims.


----------



## tka

mfdemicco said:


> Anyone tried cross routing their derailleur cables under the down tube? I was thinking of trying that to keep the cable housings from rubbing on the head tube.


I have the cables crossed under the down tube. It does improve the routing and the housing don't touch the head tube. It appears to make no difference on the shifting. The only downsides are that I occasionally get a light "ting" sound from the cables bouncing against each other and the housings stick out a bit more than I'd like. That said, I'll probably go back to running the cables straight and using tube tops on the housing when I install new cables & housing this winter. I just like the way the housing tucks in better when routed that way.


----------



## mfdemicco

tka said:


> I have the cables crossed under the down tube. It does improve the routing and the housing don't touch the head tube. It appears to make no difference on the shifting. The only downsides are that I occasionally get a light "ting" sound from the cables bouncing against each other and the housings stick out a bit more than I'd like. That said, I'll probably go back to running the cables straight and using tube tops on the housing when I install new cables & housing this winter. I just like the way the housing tucks in better when routed that way.


I have my cables routed with the split tube tops. They work, but I'd rather not use them. I found that, instead of cutting the left and right cables the same length, make them slightly different lengths so they don't rub against each other. They tend to wear the housing jackets if the rub against each other too.


----------



## Peter P.

mfdemicco said:


> Anyone tried cross routing their derailleur cables under the down tube? I was thinking of trying that to keep the cable housings from rubbing on the head tube.


A lot of people do this without a problem in shifting.


----------



## Velohome

Finally the bike is finished.


Nothing really extraordinary or special, perhaps the open corsa graphen ones which are prototyps they send me a while go....
Groupset is a shimano 105
wheels ritchey zeta II
all parts mainly middle class ritchey ones. 


But the bike runs really nice, tested it under various conditions and i am more than happy whith this choice. Everything suits perfect.


The only downer, both bottle cages - the ritchey comp ones - broken within the first 300km and i have no clue why, really disapointing. wanted to keep everything in ritchey style... 


Any recommendation for nice but not so pricey ones?


----------



## trumpetbiker

absolutely beautiful ride especially with the gumwalls.

the bottle cages that could work well are relatively inexpensive plastic blackburns(15.00), I have a couple o sets on my rides, they work well, very lightweight, nearly indestructible, and will fit the look of your ride.

www.blackburndesign.com/slick-racing-bottle-cage.html


----------



## trumpetbiker

mfdemicco said:


> If they did, they probably won't clear the brake arch. You can only go so wide with dual pivot brakes.
> 
> As I mentioned in my post above, Conti 4000S 25C tires actually measure 27.5 mm on my wheels and fit my Ritchey. I would bet that those Conti 28s above are probably couple of mm more than 28mm wide.


true - which is also strange, as the 28 is the size everyone talks about - I have a set on my volagi, which is disc brake ------------ the only ride I have no rim brake. 

so the question really should be, when will shimano and sram come out with a rim caliper that accommodates 28c?


----------



## tka

Velohome said:


> But the bike runs really nice, tested it under various conditions and i am more than happy whith this choice. Everything suits perfect.
> 
> 
> The only downer, both bottle cages - the ritchey comp ones - broken within the first 300km and i have no clue why, really disapointing. wanted to keep everything in ritchey style...
> 
> Any recommendation for nice but not so pricey ones?


The one thing that I've noticed with my Logic 2.0 is that everytime I ride it it never fails to put a smile on my face. I can't say that about some of my other bikes.

As far as bottle cages I got tired of breaking the lightweight carbon and plastic cages so I ended up going a little old school, and installed Salsa Nickless stainless steel cages. Haven't had an issue with them yet.
View attachment 315703


----------



## Frosty

Velohome said:


> Finally the bike is finished.
> 
> 
> Nothing really extraordinary or special, perhaps the open corsa graphen ones which are prototyps they send me a while go....
> Groupset is a shimano 105
> wheels ritchey zeta II
> all parts mainly middle class ritchey ones.
> 
> 
> But the bike runs really nice, tested it under various conditions and i am more than happy whith this choice. Everything suits perfect.
> 
> 
> The only downer, both bottle cages - the ritchey comp ones - broken within the first 300km and i have no clue why, really disapointing. wanted to keep everything in ritchey style...
> 
> 
> Any recommendation for nice but not so pricey ones?
> View attachment 315695


Well done on the purchase. Here's wishing you many happy miles.

Maybe it's the photo, but your saddles appears to be tilted forward (not level).


----------



## Velohome

trumpetbiker said:


> absolutely beautiful ride especially with the gumwalls.
> 
> the bottle cages that could work well are relatively inexpensive plastic blackburns(15.00), I have a couple o sets on my rides, they work well, very lightweight, nearly indestructible, and will fit the look of your ride.
> 
> www.blackburndesign.com/slick-racing-bottle-cage.html


Thanks for this suggestion, definitely what i was looking for.
The Vittoria ones are really great. Unfortunately not very longlasting, the are made for racing, not for daily use... but i knew this before, so for the first setup worth a try.


----------



## Velohome

Frosty said:


> Well done on the purchase. Here's wishing you many happy miles.
> 
> Maybe it's the photo, but your saddles appears to be tilted forward (not level).


Well spotted! yes, do not know why, but this is what i was used to from my bike before, so kept it like this, but will try to change this step by step.


----------



## Velohome

tka said:


> As far as bottle cages I got tired of breaking the lightweight carbon and plastic cages so I ended up going a little old school, and installed Salsa Nickless stainless steel cages. Haven't had an issue with them yet.


If not some nice black and white plastic a old school stell one would be the other option, agree


----------



## Velohome

Another question regarding tire clearance. Has anybody tried the specialized Turbo S-Works? They should be available in 22/24/26/28- Would love to try the 28, but unsure if they would suit?


----------



## mfdemicco

Velohome said:


> Another question regarding tire clearance. Has anybody tried the specialized Turbo S-Works? They should be available in 22/24/26/28- Would love to try the 28, but unsure if they would suit?


Keep one thing in mind, even if they fit, the clearance may be too little to prevent small bits of rock picked up on the tire from tearing up the underside of the fork crown. Personally, I wouldn't use any tire wider than a 25.


----------



## Velohome

Sure, clearance is more than just the fit in. Enough space for what you described is necessary as well. Perhaps i will start with 24mm and will the go for a wider one later.


----------



## Velohome

Still try out tires to see which way to go with ... the open corsa 23mm were great, the specialized Turbo S-Works in 24mm super fast, have now some Michelin, some conti to check, challenge paris - roubaix in 27mm will be interesting ...


----------



## turbomatic73

Just arrived in the mail today...threw wheels, post, saddle, bars, stem on to take some measurements. Unfortunately I'm starting from scratch in the groupo dept, so gonna be a while before this thing gets built. CAN'T WAIT!!!

View attachment 316650


----------



## trumpetbiker

sweeeett!!!


----------



## LeFrere

Hi guys - I'm new here but I have trawled this thread a zillion times as I'm about to get my hands on a Rithcey Logic frame very soon. I'm sooo excited about all the comments and picturs in this thread. Awesome!

Long story short - my beautiful and awesome Fondriest X-status steel frame developed a crack right beind the BB and it's beyond repair unfortunately, so I have to find a new steel-adventure. A friend suggested Ritchey to me and after reading up on this guy I know that his products will not fail me (I hope). 

Now - have an issue with which size to buy. I'm 183cm tall, with an inseam of 82cm, sternal notch 150cm. I've set my eyes on a size 57cm but I'm unsure if it will be too long for me as the top tube is significantly longer than on my Fondriest (55cm vs. 56,3cm). 

Can anyone explain the reasoning behind Ritchey's sizes? A 55 frame is 52,5cm (seat tube c-t) and a 57cm is 54,5cm. Where do the 55 and 57 come from?

Inputs are welcome 

/LeFrere


----------



## Peter P.

The frame size is extrapolated from what would be the "normal" frame size if the top tube were horizontal. Frames were typically measured to the intersection of the top tube and seat tube, but this measurement no longer quite means the same thing with the proliferation of sloping top tube frames.

Sounds like you've got stumpy legs for your 6' height. I'd get the 57cm frame; you're better off fitting the bike to your upper body as there's much more adjustment available with a sloping top tube frame. Since you're taller, you'll have no problem adjusting the stem length if necessary.


----------



## Frosty

I would have gone the other way... a smaller size frame allowing for a longer stem.

I'll try find my body measurements, as they are similar - and I'm on a 55cm frame. I was fortunate to be able to ride both 55cm and 57cm before deciding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LeFrere

Hey Peter P. - cheers for the input. I had a hunch that the "55" and "57" was referring to a "normal" frame size, but thanks for verifying. The Fondriest was 58cm so it all makes sense now.


----------



## LeFrere

Hey Frosty - first of all: what an awesome build you did. Your bike is a beauty!

I'll appreciate if you'd give your measurements as I noted we are somewhat similar in size. Right now the shopping basket has a 57cm frame and a 90mm stem with 20mm of spacers. It could also be a 55cm with a 100mm stem......I'm going crazy :-D


----------



## flatlander_48

LeFrere said:


> Hi guys - I'm new here but I have trawled this thread a zillion times as I'm about to get my hands on a Rithcey Logic frame very soon. I'm sooo excited about all the comments and picturs in this thread. Awesome!
> 
> ======
> 
> /LeFrere


No input to offer, but it sounds like you're really excited about the prospects for your new bike. Good Luck and I hope it all works out!!


----------



## tka

LeFrere said:


> Now - have an issue with which size to buy. I'm 183cm tall, with an inseam of 82cm, sternal notch 150cm. I've set my eyes on a size 57cm but I'm unsure if it will be too long for me as the top tube is significantly longer than on my Fondriest (55cm vs. 56,3cm).


My inseam is 81cm and I'm 179 cm tall so I'm just a little shorter than you. I ride a 55cm with a 90mm 84/6 stem and 15mm of spacers. I like to sit a little more upright so I do have the bars set a little closer (10mm) and higher (10mm) than the fitter thought I should have them, but I felt too stretched out with a longer and lower stem.
View attachment 317316


----------



## LeFrere

Hi tka. That's one nice bike too!! It looks very well proportioned - my fear was that the seatpost would be too long and the proportions all blurred, but that's not the case at all.

How long is the seatpost you've mounted? 350mm?


----------



## tka

LeFrere said:


> How long is the seatpost you've mounted? 350mm?


That is a 350mm seatpost, but just shy of 200mm is in the frame. It is one of the only things I don't like about how I built the bike. It is a Ritchey WCS one-bolt 20mm offset seatpost, and no amount of cleaning/lubing/tightening will stop the saddle rails from creaking in the clamp.


----------



## LeFrere

:-/ - I bought the same seatpost (25mm offset). Is it carbon rails or alu/steel rails?


----------



## tka

It's a Selle Italia SLR Flow with Vanox (Vanadium-Ti) rails. I tried a Ritchey saddle with CrN/Ti rails and it creaked. And slid in the clamp unless it was torqued well past the recommended 12nm.


----------



## LeFrere

Just a short update to all of you fine Ritchey riders out there on my sizing issue: By the time I was about to hit "Check-out" on Bike-components.de size 55cm was sold out :-(. 

In slight panic, I immediately asked them when they would have it back on stock and they replied that a new Road Logic will be relased in 2017 - most likely in spring - so no more Logic 2.0 in 55cm in all of Europe.

I have seen that Ritchey-Dave sometimes posts in here so maybe he could update us on the 2017 model they're about to release? 

Merry Christmas everyone. 

/LF


----------



## tka

LeFrere said:


> In slight panic, I immediately asked them when they would have it back on stock and they replied that a new Road Logic will be relased in 2017 - most likely in spring - so no more Logic 2.0 in 55cm in all of Europe.


So will this be a carbon road logic, similar to what he did with the Breakaway? Whatever the change is, I hope he fixed the frame so Campag chainsets can be used on it. And it has space for 28mm tires.


----------



## careymatt

Hello, yet another Road Logic sizing question I'm afraid! 

I'm looking at getting a Road Logic, but I think I might be in-between the 57cm and 59cm size. I am 6ft 1" with very long arms and legs (monkey arms as my wife says) but a short torso. 

I currently ride an XL Cinelli Experience (2012), which is a 59cm. Actual seat-tube (to top of frame) is 57cm, head tube is 20.5cm and top tube is 58cm. I had a bikefit and run a 140cm stem. The centre of bottom bracket to top of saddle measurement is 84cm.

I'm thinking I need a 59cm, with a shorter stem, but looking at the measurements the 57cm could *just* fit, and have the advantage of smaller frame. 

Thoughts?


----------



## Peter P.

This "smaller frame" trend has got to go. People look ridiculous with all that rakish, saddle to bar drop. Comfort trumps aero every time, and aero is over-rated to begin with.

Get the 59.


----------



## LeFrere

Hey guys - I think I owe you an update here. 

Long story short: I managed to get the 55cm through Bike24.com but the price had risen from some 900EUR to 1.000EUR. I guess it's due to the fact that the dollar has risen sharply during Nov-Dec. and that's why they said the current Ritchey 2.0 would be discontinued (?). There are no signs of a new model anywhere in cyberspace....

Anyhow - the build looks like this and it's absolutely stunning to look at. Since winter has a firm grip on Denmark I haven' been able to take it for a spin yet, but as soon as I have the chance I'm off on the tarmac......


----------



## Peter P.

Your bike is nicely sized. Ritchey frames are a sleeper and a bargain.


----------



## OneGoodKnee

Looks great.
You wont be disappointed.
I've sold a couple of bikes lately, having a bit of a clear out, and I've even toyed with selling my old beloved Bianchi Mega Pro L from 1998, and my Six13 from 2005.
It has never crossed my mind to part with the Ritchey.

See how I feel about it in 20 years time maybe.


----------



## LeFrere

Cheers guys. Can't wait until the weather improves. It's torture having a new bike but being unable to ride it ;-)

/LF


----------



## hardik77us

Can anyone upload pics of Ritchey RL build? Just ordered the frame and would like to get some inspiration for the build. 

Poked around the forum - for some odd reason am not able to look at most of the attachments - maybe there is a retention policy for pictures.


----------



## LeFrere

Hi Hardik77 and congrats on the purchase. You won't be disappointed!

Here's my RRL with following specs:
Full Dura Ace (7700+7800)
SRAM PC1091R chain
Ultegra pedals
Shimano RS81 wheels w. Michelin PRO4 tires
Ritchey carbon seatpost - one bolt
Cosine carbon saddle (Wiggle's own brand)
Ritchey alloy stem 110mm, 220 degrees
Ritchey carbon handlebar
Ritchey bar tape w. Hope Grip Doctors (silver)
HOPE bottom bracket (silver)
ELITE bottle cage
JAGWIRE cable kit

Rides like a dream!


----------



## tka

Here's mine:
2014 Record Chainset
2015 Chorus RD/FD/Lever
2008 Chorus Brakes
Record Hubs w/Belgium Plus rims
Ritchey WCS Stem
Ritchey WCS Streem II bars
Ritchey WCS Alloy Single-Bolt Post
Salsa SS water bottle cages

View attachment 318052


One note of caution: Several have reported that Campag chainsets don't fit the Road Logic frameset. Mine clears the chainstay but only by 1-2 mm.


----------



## tka

Overheard at a recent bicycle industry event: The next Ritchey Road Logic frame will be available in blue. Don't know if the grey is going away or if there are other changes, but I did hear it will be blue.


----------



## careymatt

tka said:


> Overheard at a recent bicycle industry event: The next Ritchey Road Logic frame will be available in blue. Don't know if the grey is going away or if there are other changes, but I did hear it will be blue.


Any idea when the new frame might be coming out? Most sizes of the current RL are out of stock in the UK...


----------



## tka

careymatt said:


> Any idea when the new frame might be coming out? Most sizes of the current RL are out of stock in the UK...


My source shows that they expect them in stock in early July. If history is any guide they'll miss that date by a couple of months. 
They also show that the new frame as a "Road Logic" whereas the old frame is described as a "WCS Road Logic." New manufacturer's part numbers are also shown.


----------



## careymatt

tka said:


> My source shows that they expect them in stock in early July. If history is any guide they'll miss that date by a couple of months.
> They also show that the new frame as a "Road Logic" whereas the old frame is described as a "WCS Road Logic." New manufacturer's part numbers are also shown.


Interesting. I wonder if the new one will be a disc version, and they maybe keep the current one...

Anyway, I'm still after the current Road Logic if I can find one in stock. Only problem is sizing as I'm in between the 57 and 59 I reckon, comparing my current XL Cinelli XPerience.


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## raleighcomp1

tka said:


> Overheard at a recent bicycle industry event: The next Ritchey Road Logic frame will be available in blue. Don't know if the grey is going away or if there are other changes, but I did hear it will be blue.


Any more info on the "other changes" front? In particular, re tire clearance? Or timing? 

The internet is for rumors, keep 'em coming.


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## tlkris

It's out! Here's the new color, Skyline Blue, and they said that it's a new Road Logic that now can take 30c tires: https://ritcheylogic.com/road-logic-frameset-skyline-blue


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## raleighcomp1

tlkris said:


> It's out! Here's the new color, Skyline Blue, and they said that it's a new Road Logic that now can take 30c tires: https://ritcheylogic.com/road-logic-frameset-skyline-blue


NO NO NO. That is perfect, I like the color a lot, and I just locked in a much pricier deal on a custom frame.


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## tka

tka said:


> My source shows that they expect them in stock in early July. If history is any guide they'll miss that date by a couple of months.
> They also show that the new frame as a "Road Logic" whereas the old frame is described as a "WCS Road Logic." New manufacturer's part numbers are also shown.


As predicted, the current in-stock dates are now showing late July. I'd guess September will be the actual availability date. And they are now showing the frame as a "Comp Road Logic" where-as the previous frame was a WCS Road Logic. Is a new high-end frame in the works?


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## ceugene

tka said:


> As predicted, the current in-stock dates are now showing late July. I'd guess September will be the actual availability date. And they are now showing the frame as a "Comp Road Logic" where-as the previous frame was a WCS Road Logic. Is a new high-end frame in the works?


Could the Comp label be related to the build rather than the frame? The new Road Logic complete bicycle is finished with Shimano 105 while the old was finished with Ultegra.


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## tka

ceugene said:


> Could the Comp label be related to the build rather than the frame? The new Road Logic complete bicycle is finished with Shimano 105 while the old was finished with Ultegra.


Could be, but I was looking at bare frames, not completed bikes, and the Comp name was present. It wouldn't be the first time they had information wrong. (I'm not looking at the Ritchey site but at some dealer only info.)


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## LeFrere

It's a beauty!!


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## tka

FYI, Quality is now showing 1 of each size of the new blue Road Logic frame in stock. Your LBS should be able to order them.


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## krell

Ok, im in process of ordering the Road Logic frameset, and need ur help in process of sizing and which version (gray or blue).

Im 175cm, 82.5 inseam, with FTP (based on TrainerRoad and Kinetic InRide 275W, and about 71-72 kg). 

My primary bike is Colnago C60 in size 50S (15mm headset cup), and about 10-12mm spacers under the 110mm -7 deg stem. And this setup suit me very well. 

My second bike is Pinarello FP3 in size 53, 110mm stem, and also 10-12 mm spacers under the stem (headset cup again 15mm).

The Ritchey Road Logic i want to build should be replacament for Pinarello. I like to climb a lot, and to ride as hard as i can, so Road Logic wont be a bike for commuting, or chill rides, plan to ride it same way as C60, but in situation where i dont want to care about carbon frame (small rocks from the road, or way of transportation etc...)

I'll build the bike with Campagnolo Chorus 52/36 crankset and 12-29 cassette in the rear, so need to be compatible with this Campagnolo version. 

The wheelset i'll use is Bora One 35 Tubular with 25mm tires (Corsa G+ or Continental in 25 mm), or Shamal Ultra clicnchers 15C with 23mm Conti 4000 SII or 25mm Conti 4 Season or Corsa G+ in 25mm, and dont plan to use 27 or bigger tires..

So where is my dilema? I can see slight change in geometry from Gray Version and Blue Version. 

I guess based on comparation to my C60 or FP3 i need size 53 of Road Logic, but probably in 100mm length (if i go blue blue version), and maybe 100 or 110mm if i go Gray Version. (and i guess 110 mm will provide better handling)

Also to add this bike will sometimes riden by my gf, who ride FP3 (but with 30mm spacers and 90mm positive stem. So on Road Logic she will need 80 or 90mm stem. She ride more like chilling, relaxing, so need this way to be safe enough, not to provide performances for her)

Since i need for riding as hard as i can, including a lot of climbing, and for that is better Short Chainstays and shorter wheelbase, and when i compare geometry of Gray vs Blue version, i can see that Gray have 410mm chainstays vs 415 mm of Blue version (so i guess gray is better for what i need), and also wheelbase is shorter (984 mm for Gray Version vs 993 mm for Blue Version). 

But when i read some reviews about Gray Version, seem that front end is less stiffer then the Blue one, and that there is some Campagnolo compatiblity problems ( I guess i wont have problem for the setup im planing to go). 
Again, about sizing and geometry.


Tried to use geometry calculator, and to compare three bikes:


Ritchey Road Logic in 53 Gray vs Colnago C60 in 50S and FP3 in 53 (FP Quatro since i can't find geometry for FP3, but i think they are the same). 


I asume that headsetcup on Ritchey Road Logic is 15mm, same as C60 and FP3, and adding about 12mm spacers on FP3, 10-12 on C60 and 15mm on Ritchey Road Logic.


About Fp3 is strange that for fork length is given 367mm in geometry charts, but im measuring 376mm (which if i add to this comparation, then stack is very odd, so i'll use 367mm)














For this one i made comparation on Velogic fit as well:


Against FP Quatro:












Against C60












So gray version seem that have just 2mm wheelbase difference vs C60 (Road Logic WB is shorter 2mm) and small reach difference with 110 stem (5-6 mm) (Road Logic reach is longer 5-6 mm)






And the same comparation but instead of Gray Road Logic, im putting geometry of the blue one (the new version):












Now we have bigger wheelbase difference vs C60. Road logic WB is longer 7 mm vs C60, and also big reach difference (Road Logic is longer 8mm).




So which geometry do u think fit me better? Gray one (older model, less stiff fork, shorter chainstays i guess better for sprinting/climbing, some Campagnolo comptibility issues with 53/39 (will use 52/36 so i guess not a problem), and less tire clearance (i plan to use 25mm, so dont care too much about this), or Blue one (new model, stiffer fork, longer chainstays i guess not that good for climbing sprinting, but no Compatibility issues with Campagnolo, and accepting biger tires....

Just to add that Gray Version is about 190 EUR cheaper (but ill choose not based on price, but based of what better suit me)

Do u think this geometry difference is big enough to decide based on it, or just go newer model?


Please help about this, since i really want to order the frame this week, and dont want to get the wrong size or wrong model.. 


Thanks and hope to get reply's soon to fix my dilema...


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## Peter P.

What's your saddle height from BB center to top of saddle?


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## krell

Peter P. said:


> What's your saddle height from BB center to top of saddle?


727mm, and 52 mm setback. Using Romin Evo Pro Saddle on one bike, and SLR Carbonio Flow on other, using Look Keo Blade Ti pedals (13.5 or 14 mm stack)


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## T K

Krell, sorry but I didn't digest your whole post but I noticed you are comparing to a Colnago (I have one too) and it is my understanding that they are designed to run with a longer stem. I think you would be better off comparing the Logic with a 100 as apposed to the 110 stem.


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## tka

OneGoodKnee said:


> Any one fitted a Campagnolo Ultra Torque 39/53 chainset to a Roadlogic frame ?
> I’ve tried with mine and it would appear it is not compatible
> The chain ring bolts hit the chainstay long before the chainset is torqued up.
> The compact version fits, but clearances are a bit tight.
> I think this is only an issue with these UT chainsets as I’ve tried the older square taper Campagnolo 39/53 chain set and an old ocatlaink Dura ace 39/53 and these go in without issue.
> I know other frames are not compatible with these Campag UT chainsets.
> Just a heads up if someone is thinking of fitting one, and it would be good if Ritchey stated somewhere that they are not compatible.
> View attachment 312780
> View attachment 312781





Ritchey_Dave said:


> I wanted to do some research on my end before I answered. I just got an email response today from my European office that they had been clued into this by you, and unfortunately it appears that, despite their drawings and measurements (which is what we go off of when designing), Campagnolo Ultra Torque 39/53 cranks uses bolts that stick out in the back and interfere with the stays and are incompatible with our frame. No fix has yet to be made. Sorry about that.





krell said:


> The Ritchey Road Logic i want to build should be replacament for Pinarello. I like to climb a lot, and to ride as hard as i can, so Road Logic wont be a bike for commuting, or chill rides, plan to ride it same way as C60, but in situation where i dont want to care about carbon frame (small rocks from the road, or way of transportation etc...)
> 
> I'll build the bike with Campagnolo Chorus 52/36 crankset and 12-29 cassette in the rear, so need to be compatible with this Campagnolo version.


Before considering frame size you might what to check with Ritchey if a 52/36 Campag crankset will work on the Road Logic. Or consider changing to Shimano or Sram.

I have on older 11-sp Chorus 53/39 on my Road Logic and it clears the chainstay by 1.5mm, but others haven't been so lucky.


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## krell

T K said:


> Krell, sorry but I didn't digest your whole post but I noticed you are comparing to a Colnago (I have one too) and it is my understanding that they are designed to run with a longer stem. I think you would be better off comparing the Logic with a 100 as apposed to the 110 stem.


Thanks for ur reply.. I'll do that comparation as well..

Im interested, what is normal stem length for Road Logic 53? The length that is designed for? 

And since u have both Colnago Carbon and Road Logic (as i understund). How u compare them in term of climbing performance, sprinting, hard efforts.. Or i should consider Road Logic more for slow more relaxing rides, when u pick the flowers and enjoy in food etc?


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## krell

tka said:


> Before considering frame size you might what to check with Ritchey if a 52/36 Campag crankset will work on the Road Logic. Or consider changing to Shimano or Sram.
> 
> I have on older 11-sp Chorus 53/39 on my Road Logic and it clears the chainstay by 1.5mm, but others haven't been so lucky.



I send the e-mail to Ritchey, so hope they'll answer this for new Blue Version..


I'll post back when (and if ), they reply.. Thanks for a good advice...And since my other bikes are capagnolo, and want the uniformity i dont see as option switching to Shimano or Sram


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## Peter P.

krell said:


> 727mm, and 52 mm setback. Using Romin Evo Pro Saddle on one bike, and SLR Carbonio Flow on other, using Look Keo Blade Ti pedals (13.5 or 14 mm stack)


Well then, at 175cm height and 72.5cm saddle height, you need a 55cm frame, not a 53.


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## krell

Peter P. said:


> Well then, at 175cm height and 72.5cm saddle height, you need a 55cm frame, not a 53.



How u find that? 55 Road Logic have 563 top tube vs 540 or 545 on my bikes that fit me now, stack of 568 vs 547 i have now and reach of 395 vs 383 or 386 i have now.

Too me look like too big


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## Peter P.

krell said:


> How u find that? ...


You've been brainwashed by the rad-looking fad of ridiculously small frames and slammed stems being all the rage. Gotta have a mile of seatpost and bars near your knees...!

Six footers on 51 or 53cm frames merely subscribe to this fashion. You're gonna be stuffed into this frame reach-wise. And using a longer stem to make it fit merely distributes the weight poorly over the wheels.


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## tka

krell said:


> So which geometry do u think fit me better? Gray one (older model, less stiff fork, shorter chainstays i guess better for sprinting/climbing, some Campagnolo comptibility issues with 53/39 (will use 52/36 so i guess not a problem), and less tire clearance (i plan to use 25mm, so dont care too much about this), or Blue one (new model, stiffer fork, longer chainstays i guess not that good for climbing sprinting, but no Compatibility issues with Campagnolo, and accepting biger tires....


One more Campag related issue - I have a gray Road Logic 2.0 with Record skeleton brakes and HED Belgium+ rims. Running 25mm Conti GP4000 SII tires I had a light rub on the front brake. The rear cleared fine, but I had to go back to a 23mm to get adequate clearance. Note that this is purely a brake issue, the 25mm cleared the fork with plenty of space, (it likely would have adequate clearance with a 28mm,) but it would rub the underside of the brake.

FWIW I ride a 55 cm and I'm about your height and inseam (but ~10kg heavier:frown5


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## burgrat

They have the gray color Logic as a Black Friday item for $2,000, full Ultegra built. Sweet deal, $1,000 off.

https://ritcheylogic.com/road-logic-bike


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## toshi




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## instantturtle

toshi said:


>


Nice!!! The promo/web pics make it look a lot less matte then in person.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## burgrat

toshi said:


>


Yeah that definitely looks nice. I wasn't too keen on the new color based on the Ritchey photos on their website, but your bike and built look very good. Enjoy!


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## sigmabannysigma

Ritchey_Dave said:


> The [...] Ritchey Road Logic will share [...] heat treated, triple-butted Ritchey Logic II tubing [...]


What exactly is "Ritchey Logic" tubing? What kind of steel is in the tubing of the new road frameset?


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## stevedodds

toshi said:


>


*Ritchey Logic 50th Anniversary frameset coming soon . will have photo soon for road bike review .

Check with us for all your Ritchey Needs : Logic Riad , Outbacks, Breakaways and more.
*
www.bicycleDoctorUSA.com 
*E-mail [email protected] 
812-825-5050
*


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## javaneberhard123

Hello all, I am in search of a 27.2 White Ritchey seat post> Does anyone have one they are willing to part with thank you!


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## chilidawg

anyone still check this? I'm looking at a 55cm but I'm 5'10 with minimum inseam of 33cm and right now my saddle is about 74cm from bb. I'm worried about the reach being over 390 when most frames I've looked at in 54 are 385ish. I use a "fixed gear" frame in 54 that I started to ride like a road bike where the stack is like 515 and 405 reach and really seems to measure larger everywhere besides stack and head tube, I don't enjoy it.


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