# 9 speed campy chain install



## Dan333sp (Aug 17, 2010)

I am about to change my own chain for the first time, but I'm having trouble sourcing some information. I have 9 speed Chorus, and I got a replacement Record 9 speed chain to go along with a new cassette. In the process of removing the old chain, I noticed the jockey wheels are crudded up and worn, so I ordered a set of replacements. I'd like to put the new chain on the bike now and ride with it for a few days while I wait for the replacement jockey wheels to come in, but I was wondering if it is possible to push out a connecting pin part way, disconnect the chain, and then reconnect when I have the new pulleys on without having a special replacement connector pin? I know that wouldn't work for 10 or 11 speed chains, but I can't find anything that says whether that is possible for 9 speed. Failing that, is it possible to replace the pulley wheels without removing the chain at all?


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

Pulley wheels can be removed without breaking the chain...unbolt the center bolts and slip them out.

If you do have to break the chain, skip that whole messing with a connector pin business and just get a quick link for a 9-speed chain and use that to rejoin the chain when you're done.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Dan333sp said:


> I am about to change my own chain for the first time, but I'm having trouble sourcing some information. I have 9 speed Chorus, and I got a replacement Record 9 speed chain to go along with a new cassette. In the process of removing the old chain, I noticed the jockey wheels are crudded up and worn, so I ordered a set of replacements. I'd like to put the new chain on the bike now and ride with it for a few days while I wait for the replacement jockey wheels to come in, but I was wondering if it is possible to push out a connecting pin part way, disconnect the chain, and then reconnect when I have the new pulleys on without having a special replacement connector pin? I know that wouldn't work for 10 or 11 speed chains, but I can't find anything that says whether that is possible for 9 speed. Failing that, is it possible to replace the pulley wheels without removing the chain at all?


Campagnolo 9 speed chains are the last without special connecting pins.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*Campy 9s*



Dan333sp said:


> I am about to change my own chain for the first time, but I'm having trouble sourcing some information. I have 9 speed Chorus, and I got a replacement Record 9 speed chain to go along with a new cassette. In the process of removing the old chain, I noticed the jockey wheels are crudded up and worn, so I ordered a set of replacements. I'd like to put the new chain on the bike now and ride with it for a few days while I wait for the replacement jockey wheels to come in, but I was wondering if it is possible to push out a connecting pin part way, disconnect the chain, and then reconnect when I have the new pulleys on without having a special replacement connector pin? I know that wouldn't work for 10 or 11 speed chains, but I can't find anything that says whether that is possible for 9 speed. Failing that, is it possible to replace the pulley wheels without removing the chain at all?


The Campy 9s chains I've used don;'t use a special pin. You just push in the existing pin and then tweek it until the tightness is removed. I am of the school that once the chain is on, I don't mess with it. I have used SRAM 9s chains (with removable link) with Campy and it worlks fine but they do not last as long


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

DaveG said:


> The Campy 9s chains I've used don;'t use a special pin. You just push in the existing pin and then tweek it until the tightness is removed. I am of the school that once the chain is on, I don't mess with it. I have used SRAM 9s chains (with removable link) with Campy and it worlks fine but they do not last as long


Right.

The Record C9 chain I installed 3300 miles ago and rode through last winter has yet to develop 1/32" of stretch over a foot.

Shifting degrades from side-plate wear before they elongate so you're always replacing chains close to their nominal 1" pitch which produces good cog life even if you're not rotating chains.


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## Dan333sp (Aug 17, 2010)

Got the new C9 chain on, but the link is super stiff. I've tried backing it in and out a half turn each way with my chain tool, but it's not getting a whole lot looser, any suggestions?


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Dan333sp said:


> Got the new C9 chain on, but the link is super stiff. I've tried backing it in and out a half turn each way with my chain tool, but it's not getting a whole lot looser, any suggestions?


Your chain tool should have two places the chain can go - an outer position where the side plate farthest from the pin is supported,and an inner notch where the plate nearer the pin is supported.

You install using the far position which puts the pin all the way through the far plate and also causes the near plate to move towards the far plate thus creating a tight link. Then you move to the near position and tighten a notch which moves the pin a bit farther through the near plate without affecting the far plate thus loosening the chain.


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## Dan333sp (Aug 17, 2010)

Thanks Drew, got the link moving smoothly now. After installing the chain, I realize I left 2 or 3 links too many on in an attempt to compensate for a larger 28t gear on my new cassette, and I get a bit of derailleur rub when the chain is slack in a few gear combinations, most annoyingly in the smallest 4 cogs while I'm in the 53 ring up front. If I went from an 11-25 to a 13-28, how many links should I have added, if any at all, compared to my old chain? Now that I know the 9 speed campy chains don't require a special master link or rivet, I guess it's no huge deal to break it again and remove a few extra links before reattaching it.

Another note- I posted on another forum asking about derailleur capacity, and I now know that my short cage 9 speed Chorus can safely handle a 28t cog, despite the max recommended cog being a 26. My concern is that, even with such a large cog installed, the B limit screw does nothing?


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

Dan333sp said:


> Thanks Drew, got the link moving smoothly now. After installing the chain, I realize I left 2 or 3 links too many on in an attempt to compensate for a larger 28t gear on my new cassette, and I get a bit of derailleur rub when the chain is slack in a few gear combinations, most annoyingly in the smallest 4 cogs while I'm in the 53 ring up front. If I went from an 11-25 to a 13-28, how many links should I have added, if any at all, compared to my old chain?


I like the big/big method of determining chain length. I add two half links (one inner, one outer, which technically comprise one full link) to whatever it takes to overlap the ends around big ring and big cog. 

If the old chain was the correct length it should be less than four half links.

You've got something wrong going on if you have chain slack in your big ring. Maybe your derailleur is getting gummed up with age - with years of crud in the lower pivot mine was sticking after the last rainy season until I disassembled it, cleaned it, and greased it.



> Another note- I posted on another forum asking about derailleur capacity, and I now know that my short cage 9 speed Chorus can safely handle a 28t cog, despite the max recommended cog being a 26. My concern is that, even with such a large cog installed, the B limit screw does nothing?


Some Campagnolo derailleurs have two possible positions for the end of the upper tension spring (My 1996 Racing-T derailleur was that way). If putting the B-tension screw in all the way isn't enough with a proper length chain take it apart and see if there's an alternate on yours.


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