# Touchup paint



## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

I just picked up a new Roubaix today and it's that flat black or carbon black, whatever they call it. I know black is hard to match, but I was wondering what to use for digs from rocks. Thanks for any replies.


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## oldskoolm4 (Mar 14, 2009)

In my experience the touch up paint looks worse than the scratch/chip itself.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Here's Spec's answer from their FAQ section:

Quote:
Specialized no longer makes or sells touch up paints. There have been many problems in recent years with shipping paints because they are flammable.

There have also been problems with paints matching the frame properly once dry because the paint we use is designed to be baked on. We have had the best luck guiding our riders to model paints found at hobby stores.

These paints tend to be easy to match up colors with your bike and stay true to color once dry.

Some riders of carbon frames use nail polish to great effect, as it also provides more clear coat, epoxy-like protection.
End quote.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

George M said:


> I just picked up a new Roubaix today and it's that flat black or carbon black, whatever they call it. I know black is hard to match, but I was wondering what to use for digs from rocks. Thanks for any replies.


As PJ posted, I have had best results with Testors Model paint...have used lacquer and enamel and enamel works fine...water soluable. They make different glosses as well as mattes and flats...including dull clear coat. Likely flat black is your best bet. If you are matching charcoal you will have to be a bit creative and mix colors though you should get close with Testor's array of colors. 

As to prevent scratches in the first place in high traffic areas...I cover the top tube for leaning it against a tree for example...and the chain stays...under the computer sending unit on the fork...above each bottle cage for scuffing etc, my favorite is Bikesaver tape sold by Colorado Cyclist. It isn't high gloss...excellent adhesion but will come off without taking the paint with it and will protect the bike from pesky scratches.

Be sure to post a pic of your new Roubaix...as I ride one as well.
My personal opinion is the Roubaix SL3 is a design masterpiece and I don't heap praise lightly as that is my background. I wonder just how good the Roubaix SL4 will be.
Best.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

I forgot that I had that tape in the drawer, so I got it taped up before I went for a ride today. IT so is a nice bike and stiffer than my 2007 Roubaix. It looks pretty much the same as the other black ones you see. It was the last 60 cm that they had in stock, so I didn't have much of a choice. I'm pretty happy with it.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

I am 6'1" and ride a 58cm bike. I thought I may have the same model as yours but looking closer, I notice you have external cable routing for the derailleurs...so is that the SL2 model?
Your bike appears to be a 61cm. I will consider a 61cm for my next bike in fact because the stem is so long on my 58. I also have a FSA seat post on my Roubaix which I really like.
A tip is...if you haven't tried it is...rotate your saddle tilt a bit more rearward. With that high a handlebar which btw I prefer as well...there is no reason to have your saddle tilted so far forward for perineal relief. By rotating your saddle more rearward this will take more weight off your hands and balance your weight more evenly without extra pressure on the handlebars.. You may in fact be able to reduce setback in the process which you need now more because of your tipped down saddle position. Your sit bones rest on the rear of the saddle and that is the surface to focus on and should be close to level if you expect balanced weight fore/aft on the bike.. Most saddles...I ride the Toupe and Romin...I only ride with 1 deg or so of the rear of the saddle where I sit tipped down in front which places the nose of the saddle well up in the air.
Hope that helps and congrats on the bike. I am extremely pleased with mine and have almost 3K miles on it since Christmas. If yours is a SL2 bike, I likely would have been happy with it as I find the SL3 to be quite stiff although with a very good ride relative to frame stiffness.
PS: if you have any balkiness to your rear derailleur shifting as is sometimes reported on these bikes which I believe is all set up and not design... I would say it is due to the rear derailleur cable loop which should be a fair amount longer to reduce cable drag.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks RW, for the tip on the saddle. I have played with the tilt some, but not nose up. I'll give it a try tomorrow. What I did do, was change the stem to a 110, it was a 100 on there. It made my ride much better today. The size of the Roubaix Comp is a 60 cm. I'm 6'2" with a 89 cm inseam and the bike fits me better than any I've ever owned. I like the Ultegra components too. I have been using Sram, but I welcome the change. For now anyhow, I'll have to wait and see, when the newness wears off.

After being fit and reading so much about fit, I decided to go out, rather than down with the bars. I"m still aero and not cranking my neck. Much more comfortable, without the strain on the back of the arms. I'll still play with it some more, like I like to do, just to see if there is more comfort. Right now it's pretty good though.

Thanks for the reply and ride safe.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

Up and out with the bars works best for me as well. As mentioned, believe I will go with a 60 as you have for my next Roubaix but am in no hurry as this one fits nicely...just at the extreme of reach. The 60 also has a 72.5 deg sta which works better for me versus 73.0 deg.
As discussed when you level the rear of the saddle which will raise the nose, you may prefer a hint less setback because you won't need it as much for weight distribution and you won't have as much interference of your perineum onto the higher nose of the saddle with it a bit more forward. You will likely prefer a 120mm stem however if pushing forward the saddle a bit but opening your hip angle will make you a bit more comfortable in the drops.
Enjoy the bike...looks comfy and no doubt fast.
PS I was coming back from my ride this morning when I met up with an older cyclist also on a Roubaix. He was a smaller rider and fit. We chatted a bit and decided to ride hard the last 5 miles and worked together pulling and averaged 23-24 mph the last few miles. I estimate his age in his mid 60's and don't know his background but he could pull comfortably at 23 mph...strong rider...possibly with racing background as he surprised me a bit with his speed.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

roadworthy said:


> I am 6'1" and ride a 58cm bike. I thought I may have the same model as yours but looking closer, I notice you have external cable routing for the derailleurs...so is that the SL2 model?
> Your bike appears to be a 61cm. I will consider a 61cm for my next bike in fact because the stem is so long on my 58. I also have a FSA seat post on my Roubaix which I really like.
> A tip is...if you haven't tried it is...rotate your saddle tilt a bit more rearward. With that high a handlebar which btw I prefer as well...there is no reason to have your saddle tilted so far forward for perineal relief. By rotating your saddle more rearward this will take more weight off your hands and balance your weight more evenly without extra pressure on the handlebars.. You may in fact be able to reduce setback in the process which you need now more because of your tipped down saddle position. Your sit bones rest on the rear of the saddle and that is the surface to focus on and should be close to level if you expect balanced weight fore/aft on the bike.. Most saddles...I ride the Toupe and Romin...I only ride with 1 deg or so of the rear of the saddle where I sit tipped down in front which places the nose of the saddle well up in the air.
> Hope that helps and congrats on the bike. I am extremely pleased with mine and have almost 3K miles on it since Christmas. If yours is a SL2 bike, I likely would have been happy with it as I find the SL3 to be quite stiff although with a very good ride relative to frame stiffness.
> PS: if you have any balkiness to your rear derailleur shifting as is sometimes reported on these bikes which I believe is all set up and not design... I would say it is due to the rear derailleur cable loop which should be a fair amount longer to reduce cable drag.


I RW, would you mind posting a picture of your bike, so I can see how your saddle is setup. I got back from my ride today and my butt was really hurting. I may have to go with my Brooks.


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

George M said:


> I RW, would you mind posting a picture of your bike, so I can see how your saddle is setup. I got back from my ride today and my butt was really hurting. I may have to go with my Brooks.


George,
Here is a recent pic of my saddle position....toupe 155. Note that the rear of the saddle is pointed down about 1 deg back to front. Choice of saddle is critical of course but so is saddle position. I can't for example ride the saddle you ride. I have however ridden Brooks saddles for years previously until a couple of years ago. They should be positioned the same. You sit on the rear of the saddle...not the nose generally except on the rivet. The area of the saddle ergo rear of the saddle you sit on should be close to level. If rear of saddle angled too far down in front, you will have more weight on your hands...and rotated too far back, the nose will apply pressure to the perinieum when in the drops in particular. A Brooks should be set up approx. the same...rear of saddle close to level or a deg or so tilted down. The nose on a B17 for example is well in the air. This is why the B17..one of the most storied saddles in history is a poor saddle for riding a drop bar bike...the nose is too prominent. A Pro is better because it is flatter but I believe the 'right' modern saddle will eclipse a Brooks in terms of comfort and weight.
I seek a flat saddle like the Toupe because I like to move around on the saddle. I like to scoot forward for example when riding in the drops to open my hip angle. I like to scoot back on the saddle when climbing or on the hoods...and sometimes I like to ride more in middle of the saddle on the hoods to put a bit more weight on the pedals. A Romin shaped more like your saddle doesn't promote moving around as much.
Position is big and why I suggested if you rotate your saddle back you push the saddle forward a bit on its rails. This is because your perineum with too far a reach to the bars by rotating the saddle rearward may complain a bit...and leveling the rear of the saddle will call for less setback because your weight isn't falling forward as much. I now ride with a 25mm setback FSA post pushed a hint back from center...and about 100mm of setback or so. Pro's FWIW ride in the 70-110mm range generally but of course they aren't like us. ...but as a data point.

Below are recent pics of my Roubaix SL3. Again...140mm stem so I am on the brink of a bike too small...a 58 with 140mm stem. A racey fit for a comfort bike. ...oxymoron...lol.
You are a hint taller than me so I believe you are in the right ballpark for sizing. In my experience there is NO substitute for finding the best riding position. As the great golfer Lee Trevino used to say about finding a golf swing, he said the answer is in the dirt. You have to try everything and find it. Those that want it bad enough, find it.
Cheers


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks Roadw, I set my saddle level from front to back and it feels pretty good. I'll have to see how it feels on a 3 plus hour ride. Maybe I'll have a couple of Brooks for sale.lol


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## roadworthy (Nov 11, 2011)

George M said:


> Thanks Roadw, I set my saddle level from front to back and it feels pretty good. I'll have to see how it feels on a 3 plus hour ride. Maybe I'll have a couple of Brooks for sale.lol


A point of clarification George. Setting your saddle level front to back isn't the same as setting the rear section of the saddle level. If you place a level over the entire saddle and set the bubble level, the rear section of your radiused saddle in particular will be spilling forward resulting in your body weight falling more forward. 
Fit is nuanced. 1 deg makes a noticable difference in rider balance.
Good luck.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

Thanks again Rw, I didn't get a chance to ride today, but I'll give a few adjustments tomorrow to see where I'm at. I must say, I felt pretty comfortable the way it is. I'm always looking for something better, but I don't think I would be disappointed the way it is.


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## George M (Sep 25, 2008)

Oh, I forgot to mention, I bought a Garmin 500 Edge yesterday and I'm really looking forward to trying it out. I had a 305 last year and I had so much trouble with it, I sent it back and got another one and that one gave me trouble too. I told myself to not buy another one, but I did and I'll see what happens.If this one gives me problems, it will be my last one for sure.


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