# wanting a few upgrades for my 2013 Felt Z4



## jerdawg (Jun 14, 2012)

I'm interested in buying a new wheel set for my bike and it come with a free cassette. My choices are 11-23;11-25,11-28,12-13,and 12-25.
I believe my back has a 12-30 cassette stock. 
What would be a good cassette to get that would be a good choice without having to change my chain or derailer? I'm not a big climber....most of the time small hills and flat ground.
Also; does anyone know the length of the stem and the diameter for the bars and stem diameter for a stem swap? The stock one feels good so I will want to keep it somewhat the same characteristics.
Also, I am looking at a FSA-SLK Crankset. Do you know what kind I would need for a smooth swap? BB30 50-34...what else?

Thanks for the help!


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## Z'mer (Oct 28, 2013)

*my Z4 upgrades*

I also have a 2013 Felt Z4, with about 800 miles on it. I bought it mid August from The Inside Edge in NY. I've done a few mods to it, based on my previous likes and experiences. To answer your question on cassettes, I'd get the one closest to stock, 11-28, if you have no other preferences. This will likely work OK, but you should check it though all gears before riding. 

The stock FSA chain is set up using the big front - big rear cogs (chain *not* through derailleur) +2 links method, and has 108 links. The 28 cog rear setup would have 2 extra links from stock, but it may be fine - check the small front, small rear to make sure there is no rub on the chain / derailleur bottom. Research small - small chain sizing. 

On the crankset, I would go for a Shimano. I had chain suck problems shifting from big to small on the front as the chain wore / got dirty with the stock FSA Gossamer chain rings. I don't think too much of them, there are pretty much (in my opinion) the weak link on this fine bike. I think everyone should replace them with at least Shimano 105 50 / 34 rings. These are fairly cheap and well worth it.
The Shimano rings are harder, and have a beveled profile on the non-driven side that releases the chain faster than the FSA rings. This prevents chain suck. 

I went the extra mile and put a Shimano FC-6800 crankset on mine, 50 / 34. Yes, it is an 11 speed crank. Yes, it works great with 10 speed chain (now using a KMC 10 speed chain lubricated with Chain-L). It is gorgeous, extremely stiff and makes front shifts cleanly (chain suck no more!). The Z4 uses a 68mm BB30 setup, so I used the Wheels Mfg. BB30 Shimano adapters (Part BB30-SHIM - 19. on Amazon). After a ride, there was slight rocking and looseness, and had to re-tighten the non-drive side large single "special" axle bolt once or twice, but otherwise they work well. You need to loosen the 2 small crank arm bolts first to do this, and use a special tool like the Park BBT-9. With those adapters I did not use the stock FSA thin BB30 crank seals. I also used plenty of grease to coat parts inside and out. 
I also replaced the stock tires with Vittoria Rubino Pro III and latex tubes. These made a big difference, closer to the feel I get with tubulars, but not 100%. 
Last, replaced the 105 rear derailleur pulleys with Ultegra ones (again 19. Amazon) that are sealed roller bearings on one, and ceramic bushings on the other. Doing this essentially gives you an Ultegra derailleur. You need to keep these pulleys clean. 
I love the Z4, especially with the changes to make it even better. 
The stock 2013 Z4 wheels, BTW, are not too shabby, especially if you are in the 190 lbs. or more weight range. They use double butted spokes and alloy nipples, with the 510 g Mavic CXP-22 rims. Sure, you can shave weight, but it could be a lot worse there. 
You would likely need to go to 425 g rims like Mavic Open Pro to really feel a huge difference. When comparing wheel weights, make sure to concentrate on the outermost rotating rim / nipple / spoke (and tire /tube) weight (and spoke type), as hub weight is not nearly as important. 
Bob


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