# Adjustable Stem Question



## tron (Jul 18, 2004)

I have a Allez Elite and I was set up with the stem rising pretty high. Last night I decided to flip it and realized that there was a shim under the stem with a (-8/+16) on it. When I tried to tighten the headset screw it did not seem to line up right and the handling was very tight.

I feel like an idiot that I cannot figure this thing out. I have swapped stems on my mountain bike for years with no issues.

Any tips on working with these shims and stems? I feel like I just want to throw a normal stem with no shims on there. Will there be any issues? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## rbart4506 (Aug 4, 2004)

No issues with swapping out the stem. I did that on my Roubaix because I could never get the stem to stay tight and stop squeaking...


----------



## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

The shim is actually an insert in the stem and needs to be put in from the bottom of the stem for the orientation that you are using. With the stem off you can press the shim out with your fingers fairly easily and set it up the way you want - -16, -8, +8, +16. You can also get a shim from your LBS to get -12, -10, +10, +12.

If it was up when you took it off and -8/+16 was showing, then it was set-up as +16. If you want it set as -16, then flip the stem and put the shim in from what is now the bottom so you can read +8/-16. I'd suggest setting it to -8 as a try first as 32 degrees difference is really a rather large difference - if you need more drop I would suggest pulling spacers first. - but thats just my opinion.


----------



## the Inbred (Feb 28, 2004)

the headset top cap needs to be arranged accordingly, as well. the hole is offset so that it matches up with how you have the wedge positioned.


----------



## DMFT (Feb 3, 2005)

*Bingo!*

That's the deal.... Align the Top-cap. :thumbsup:


----------



## OneGear (Aug 19, 2005)

bsaunder said:


> The shim is actually an insert in the stem and needs to be put in from the bottom of the stem for the orientation that you are using. With the stem off you can press the shim out with your fingers fairly easily and set it up the way you want - -16, -8, +8, +16. You can also get a shim from your LBS to get -12, -10, +10, +12.
> 
> If it was up when you took it off and -8/+16 was showing, then it was set-up as +16. If you want it set as -16, then flip the stem and put the shim in from what is now the bottom so you can read +8/-16. I'd suggest setting it to -8 as a try first as 32 degrees difference is really a rather large difference - if you need more drop I would suggest pulling spacers first. - but thats just my opinion.


thanks for the explaination... i was definitely too noob to notice how that worked!


----------



## critchie (Apr 27, 2004)

DMFT said:


> That's the deal.... Align the Top-cap. :thumbsup:


[/CODE]

Yes, but the bike should have come with additional top caps that fit more correctly when different spacers are used. if you have no additional spacers then the top cap you have should work.


----------



## DMFT (Feb 3, 2005)

critchie said:


> [/CODE]
> 
> Yes, but the bike should have come with additional top caps that fit more correctly when different spacers are used. if you have no additional spacers then the top cap you have should work.


Critchie - There is no need for a different top-cap with the stock stem in any position.
- I wrench in an S-Works dealership and have built/fit probably a hundred or so in all the positions with no problems. For someone not familiar with the system I can see where anyone would be slightly confused.


----------



## tron (Jul 18, 2004)

Thanks for the responses. I think I got it now. The top cap was throwing me and I still
dont know if I totally have it down but I just moved it around till it felt straight.


----------



## critchie (Apr 27, 2004)

DMFT said:


> Critchie - There is no need for a different top-cap with the stock stem in any position.
> - I wrench in an S-Works dealership and have built/fit probably a hundred or so in all the positions with no problems. For someone not familiar with the system I can see where anyone would be slightly confused.


Go back and look at the various caps provided with the multi position stems -- they are different for a reason.

FYI, I own an S-works shop, though admittedly I have not built a hundred bikes. I am, however, a stickler for little details.


----------



## DMFT (Feb 3, 2005)

*Critchie*

Again...... There are no extra top-caps that come with any of the bikes except for maybe the Sram bike with the Barmac. And I will find out in around 3 to 5 days when MY bike hit's the shops door. :thumbsup:


----------



## bsaunder (Oct 27, 2004)

two different top caps come with a Specialized Pro-set multi position stem - one for the 8/16 shim and one for the 10/12 shim


----------



## tron (Jul 18, 2004)

I guess you must get the two shims and top cap if you buy the stem separate b/c my bike only came with the 8/16 shim and one top cap.


----------



## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> I guess you must get the two shims and top cap if you buy the stem separate b/c my bike only came with the 8/16 shim and one top cap.


That's generally the case. I wish Specialized would give the additional parts, or encourage LBSs to give the additional shims/top caps to the people that buy the new bikes. My top cap is painted the color of my frame (silver), which is kind of cool, but I had to turn it upside-down when I flipped the stem. I could get the proper top cap from my LBS, but it'd be generic black.


----------



## DMFT (Feb 3, 2005)

*Interesting......*



bsaunder said:


> two different top caps come with a Specialized Pro-set multi position stem - one for the 8/16 shim and one for the 10/12 shim



- I'll be questioning my outside rep. tomorrow about why these parts are not coming with the bikes. 
Just goes to show you : EVERYONE can learn something new anyday!


----------



## tron (Jul 18, 2004)

follow-up to my original post.

I appreciate all of the feedback I got. After trying out all the possible positions I was frustrated and went out and bought what I will call a normal stem. After I took the specialized
adjustable stem off I weighed that whole set up and the new stem I bought. A normal stem was a lot lighter than the Specialized set up with the shim and top cap. Also, I had to get a new top cap since the mult-positional one would not fit. I think I am happy with this set-up but I am keeping the other multi-positional one around if I change my mind.


----------



## apapage (Sep 12, 2012)

Didn't want to start new thread in this topic so reviving this one. 

I have a tarmac with the multistem but the marking in the shim is +4. I know that shims come in 0, 2 and 4 degree but it seems the markings reflect the final angle of a 12 degree stem. I haven't found any references only for a shim marked +4 only. I assume this is a four degree shim and therefore the maximum rise I can get out of the stem. Can anyone confirm?


----------



## willembad (Jun 26, 2013)

Holy thread dredge!

A +/-4 shim with a 12 degree stem will let you select between -8 and -16 or +8 and +16. You can also use a +/-2 shim for +/-10 or +/-14 or a 0 deg shim for +/-12.


----------



## apapage (Sep 12, 2012)

Yes I got that but those number combinations are printed onto the shim. My shim has +4 printed on it. I haven't seen any other shims that have a +4 on it. 

I have the stem set up facing upward with +4 showing on the stem. It's clearly more than +4 overall so I think it's more like +16 but according to the literature from specialized the shim should be labeled +16 -8. 

The reason I ask is that I would like to raise the stem with a shim. If the +4 that I have is the same As the +16 -8 then I know I am maxed out and i will need to go with a 24 degree stem.


----------

