# Has anybody ever true carbon wheel with bladed spokes?



## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

I been putting it off for quite a while. The Boyd 38mm carbon clinchers most likely got out of true from all the cracks and small potholes on the roads I ride on. I only notice the rubbing on the brake pads with the front wheel when I climb out of the saddle. Another factor is likely I set my brake pads very close to the wheel for quick stopping. The rear is also out of true but I don't notice it until I use the rear brake. 

Boyd mentioned I will need a special tool to keep the spoke from twisting. I'm thinking it will cost me less money getting the tool then taking to my LBS since they all want around $17 per wheel. I have true alloy wheels before but not carbon with bladed spokes.


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## AJ88V (Nov 14, 2012)

From my limited experience, not much difference than with an aluminum wheel. I used to hold the spoke still and turn the nipple, but it usually proves easier to do it in two steps - turn the nipple and let the spoke twist a little, then twist the spoke back straight. I use a small (6") adjustable wrench with the jaws set barely open to grab and rotate the spoke. The friction of the rim on the nipple keeps it from turning as you rotate the spoke.


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## Newnan3 (Jul 8, 2011)

Use the park tool bladed spoke holder. Its like ten bucks


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> I been putting it off for quite a while. The Boyd 38mm carbon clinchers most likely got out of true from all the cracks and small potholes on the roads I ride on. I only notice the rubbing on the brake pads with the front wheel when I climb out of the saddle. Another factor is likely I set my brake pads very close to the wheel for *quick skidding*. The rear is also out of true but I don't notice it until I use the rear brake.
> 
> Boyd mentioned I will need a special tool to keep the spoke from twisting. I'm thinking it will cost me less money getting the tool then taking to my LBS since they all want around $17 per wheel. I have true alloy wheels before but not carbon with bladed spokes.


FTFY. You'll get more power AND better control w/ your brakes set looser. All you really get w/ your brakes tight is worn out tires from skidding. If the pads rub when you're climbing that's a sure sign the brakes are tooooooo tight.


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

I don't tighten to the point when I squeeze the brake the tires skid. If I keep it loose like before when I get caught in the rain, the braking power is pretty much out of the window. I know you will lose power even with alloy rims but I almost have no stopping power based on my experience. Thus I try to keep the pads snug.(approximately 1 to 2 mm from the rim)


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## ergott (Feb 26, 2006)

Make your own spoke twist tool. Slot a chunk of plastic or metal with a hasksaw and your're all set. All it has to do is prevent the spoke from twisting.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> I don't tighten to the point when I squeeze the brake the tires skid. If I keep it loose like before when I get caught in the rain, the braking power is pretty much out of the window. I know you will lose power even with alloy rims but I almost have no stopping power based on my experience. Thus I try to keep the pads snug.(approximately 1 to 2 mm from the rim)


You're mixed up or doing something weird. As long as the levers don't bottom out on the bars (or the other fingers) when you apply maximum hand force, you're getting all the "power" you can, and it is completely unaffected by how far the levers have to move before the pads contact the rim. There is no advantage to the close adjustment.

As cxwrench said, you get more power and control with them looser, because you're applying the maximum force with your hands in a more closed, more comfortable position, rather than with the fingers far extended.

Generally, the ideal adjustment allows you to squeeze with maximum force and not quite contact the other fingers that are holding the bar behind the lever.


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## RC28 (May 9, 2002)

ergott said:


> Make your own spoke twist tool. Slot a chunk of plastic or metal with a hasksaw and your're all set. All it has to do is prevent the spoke from twisting.



^^This^^.


FWIW, I have a homemade tool but I also have the Fulcrum brand tool as well.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> I don't tighten to the point when I squeeze the brake the tires skid. If I keep it loose like before when I get caught in the rain, the braking power is pretty much out of the window. I know you will lose power even with alloy rims but I almost have no stopping power based on my experience. Thus I try to keep the pads snug.(approximately 1 to 2 mm from the rim)


Rain will affect your braking the same whether your brakes are tight or loose...makes no difference.


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## AJ88V (Nov 14, 2012)

cxwrench said:


> FTFY. You'll get more power AND better control w/ your brakes set looser. All you really get w/ your brakes tight is worn out tires from skidding. If the pads rub when you're climbing that's a sure sign the brakes are tooooooo tight.


Good advice. I've started opening my brakes a bit more and agree completely.


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## RoadrunnerLXXI (Jun 3, 2012)

Got the wheels trued from a friend who have a truing stand last night. Not perfect but acceptable with miniscule wobble. Well try the 'keep it loose' setting for tomorrow's super century aka double metric century. Thanks everybody for the advice on the brakes and blade holder. My LBS don't carry the blade holder tool but the mechanic told me just use a crescent wrench. Lucky for me I have a super small one which did the trick after the wheels were trued. But I think I will buy one so I don't have to make the adjustment after the next truing.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

RoadrunnerLXXI said:


> The Boyd 38mm carbon clinchers most likely got out of true from all the cracks and small potholes on the roads I ride on.


That doesn't sound right to me. Carbon rims don't yield unless something shifts in the carbon matrix. It is most likely from some spokes being loose. 

You need even tension first and foremost. Then worry about making it true enough. If the wheel can't be made true with uniform tension, then the rim isn't straight and the wheel will always be weak. 

Sadly most bike shop employees don't even understand this. Check that the tone is the same on all the spokes on each side. Get or make a tool to hold the spokes and do it yourself.


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

rruff said:


> You need even tension first and foremost. Then worry about making it true enough. If the wheel can't be made true with uniform tension, then the rim isn't straight and the wheel will always be weak.
> 
> Sadly most bike shop employees don't even understand this. Check that the tone is the same on all the spokes on each side. Get or make a tool to hold the spokes and do it yourself.


^This.

Getting the wheel up to tension is just as important as it being trued and dished. You should not have one without the others!


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