# 2011 5.9 BB90 Bearing Failures



## Redtail A-4

I have had my 2011 Madone 5.9 for about 4 months now and it looks like I need to replace the bottom bracket again. The factory installed bottom bracket started making a loud noise after 3 weeks of riding. It sounded like a WWII Sherman tank with rusty treads. Now 3 months later its making the same noise.The bike has not seen rain so that is not the problem. The dealer says they will replace the bb under warranty but the only way to really solve the problem is to upgrade to an aftermarket bb like Chris King. Is anyone having the same problem? Also, any thoughts on ceramic bearings vs standard. And yes its all ball bearings these days.....


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## okiefo

Ummm...does your dealer know that the bearings in the frame are pressed in, and that the King BB is thread-in?


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## gormleyflyer2002

wonder when they will figure out that the BB is crap design on these bikes ! when inovation takes you backwards....they should be ashamed.


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## zac

Do yourself a favor and don't spend the extra on ceramics. They won't solve any issues, and are $$$ compared to a standard set of normal steel bearings. A set of standard bearings for Shimano on the Madone are ~$20 (maybe a bit more), buy a couple of sets, keep them in your repair box and start wrenching your own machine. I know it's not a solution to the BB90 issue, but regular attention seems to keep the problem at bay for some. Unfortunately the BB cartridge bearings are now relegated to frequent maintenance and are essentially disposable on a much more accelerated time schedule. 

As for the CK suggestion: I too am a bit mystified, unless King now makes some sort of Trek compatible BB90 bottom bracket. Would be interested to know how they would deal with the Q-factor issue involved, but what do I know.

I agree with gormleyflyer, that the BB90 seems to be an idea that didn't work so well as far as durability was concerned. I wonder how many 2008+ Madones are suffering with this issue and their riders have no idea?

zac

PS: nice looking bike BTW.


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## davidka

I've had the same bearings for 2 seasons with no maintnance at all. I live in a "Trek dominated" area and don't hear much about this. It would probably be a good idea to have the shop disassemble it and replace the bearings (grease the seats) and fashion some kind of press to be sure the bearings are seated parellel. If I had to guess, I think one of the bearings is seated slightly crooked in it's seat. This will cause cartridge bearings to wear very fast.


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## Redtail A-4

Thanks for all the advice- I am not a wrench so my knowledge is limited. I'm looking forward to asking them a few questions now that I am armed with a bit of info.I will post an update a when I take it in on Tuesday. Ride safe.


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## bigjohnson54

*08 Madone*

I finally tried loctite My shop where I bought it did order some bearings, I have put about 1000 miles on with the loctite and so far it seems to be working, I used the blue, but they say the green is the one to use, I built a Pedal Force frame up last winter with BB30 and no problems at all but those bearings have to be pressed in.


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## johntrek5

I have almost 6,500 miles on my 2011 5.2 with zero issues.


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## Redtail A-4

Went to the bike store on Saturday and spoke with one of the mechanics this time not the sales person and you guys were right. I should have done a more research before posting, The Mechanic recommends replacing the stock Trek bearings with an aftermarket set that have higher quality seals. We also talked about getting the alignment correct when they press them into the frame. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

Cheers,


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## williamsrx

I have had my Madone 6.2 for about 6 weeks and it started making a clicking noise on pedaling, they've taken apart and lubed everything possible on the bike and Loctited the bearings, and it's better but still doing it when I climb hills or otherwise push harder on the pedals. New BB kit being ordered now to see if that helps, if not I guess the frame is next?


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## okiefo

williamsrx said:


> I have had my Madone 6.2 for about 6 weeks and it started making a clicking noise on pedaling, they've taken apart and lubed everything possible on the bike and Loctited the bearings, and it's better but still doing it when I climb hills or otherwise push harder on the pedals. New BB kit being ordered now to see if that helps, if not I guess the frame is next?


Has your shop (or you) tried greasing/lubing the rear dropouts? I had a nagging creak on mine, and trying the simplest things first....I smeared a little grease on the dropouts and even pulled off the der. hanger and greased there... creak gone. Try that first before you spend a bunch of time/$$ messing w/ the BB... :thumbsup: It may or may not solve the issue, but if it does, its a win.


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## zac

williamsrx said:


> I have had my Madone 6.2 for about 6 weeks and it started making a clicking noise on pedaling, they've taken apart and lubed everything possible on the bike and* Loctited the bearings*, and it's better but still doing it when I climb hills or otherwise push harder on the pedals. New BB kit being ordered now to see if that helps, if not I guess the frame is next?


That makes me nervous. If my memory serves me correct, Trek strongly warned against using loctite in the bearing sockets (I can't find my correspondence on this). Perhaps they have changed their tune/policy since.


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## zac

okiefo said:


> *Has your shop (or you) tried greasing/lubing the rear dropouts?* I had a nagging creak on mine, and trying the simplest things first....I smeared a little grease on the dropouts and even pulled off the der. hanger and greased there... creak gone. Try that first before you spend a bunch of time/$$ messing w/ the BB... :thumbsup: It may or may not solve the issue, but if it does, its a win.


This is never a good idea. If your rear axel is creaking against the dropouts, then it is not set properly with the QR. This is probably the one area where parts come together where grease should be avoided. Instead just thoroughly clean the dropouts and the serrations on QR nuts.


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## zac

Redtail A-4 said:


> Went to the bike store on Saturday and spoke with one of the mechanics this time not the sales person and you guys were right. I should have done a more research before posting, The Mechanic recommends replacing the stock Trek bearings with an aftermarket set that have higher quality seals. We also talked about getting the alignment correct when they press them into the frame. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
> 
> Cheers,


Redtail, that was a secondary reason against ceramic bearings. The reason why they feel so free and smooth in your hands is that the seals don't come into full contact across the bearing races. The downside is, if you ride in grimy/wet areas then the bearings tend to infiltrate with water/grime/solvents more readily than a better sealed bearing.

For what it is worth, I use the standard Enduro steel bearings that are made for Shimano and the Madone BB90.

What I have found is most important, is that after a full and clean install of the bearings and torquing of the spindle and cranks - go ride your bike for a mile or two - then return and reset/retorque the load on the cranks and the spindle. I have found that this simple followup step pulls the system together that last little bit.

I have mentioned this before, and it gets lost in the number of threads that get generated here, so it is worth repeating. I have also noticed that this is also a part of the crank install procedure either from Trek or Shimano (I can't recall specifically) for the BB90 Madones.


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## williamsrx

Thanks guys for the ideas - I trust this LBS and they said they had been given guidance from Trek to do the loctite. It does come loose, because he's done the loctite twice so I know the bearing will come out - I don't think it's the permanent loctite. Anyway, that doesn't seem to be making the click go away so hopefully the new bearings will do the trick. It doesn't affect my ride other than to be annoying, so I hate for this to be the reason to get a new frame. I love the color (rage red/white combo) and I probably wouldn't get the same color. Hope I don't have to choose.


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## ssturm

the press-in BB are just a bit weak. if you are a big boy you probably want to loctite. my frame is toast due to oval BB seat. still waiting for my replacement. big guys with 180 lbs and xl frame.


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## gormleyflyer2002

ironic....service manual states liberal amount of grease in bearing bore/cup.


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## inthesticks

I have had creaking twice in my 6.5...both times it has ended up being a spoke/hub issue, the front had to be re laced and the rear needs it done again, never made any noise until I did two races in the rain, no wonder I am called a fair weather rider.

R


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## MerlinDS

I had a buddy with the same issue, LBS replaced it under warranty, no problem.


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## okiefo

Hmm.


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## okiefo

zac said:


> *This is never a good idea.* If your rear axel is creaking against the dropouts, then it is not set properly with the QR. This is probably the one area where parts come together where grease should be avoided. Instead just thoroughly clean the dropouts and the serrations on QR nuts.


What?? I haven't been following this thread, and I just now saw this response. I'm curious as to why you think lubing the dropouts is a bad idea??


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## gottaserotta

GRRRRR - just saw these posts and I bought my 5.9 May 2011 - had the bearings replaced in June - then again in August - now AGAIN they are being replaced. I'm 5'4" and while I've raced in the past don't race now. Taking it to LBS for replacing again, will try your method of replace, ride and retorque to see how that goes. Anyone had better luck with replacing with upgraded bearings? Or maybe this is a 5.9 issue (made in China, don't cha know...)


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## gottaserotta

Just called TREK dealer support directly. Guy on the other end stated "we had a bad batch of bearings that went out, ask your LBS to replace and that should be the end of that". Ok - one more trip to LBS - we'll see if that takes care of it....sigh....


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## davidka

gottaserotta said:


> GRRRRR - just saw these posts and I bought my 5.9 May 2011 - had the bearings replaced in June - then again in August - now AGAIN they are being replaced. I'm 5'4" and while I've raced in the past don't race now. Taking it to LBS for replacing again, will try your method of replace, ride and retorque to see how that goes. Anyone had better luck with replacing with upgraded bearings? Or maybe this is a 5.9 issue (made in China, don't cha know...)


The bearings are excellent quality. The problems come from mis-alignment and/or loose fit. I think Trek has a solution for the latter. For the former, if the bearing fit is very tight, I use a headset press and a second set of bearings (so to apply pressure only to the outer race of the bearings going into the frame) and *lightly* press them into place if I believe that they are not seating all the way in. I've only done a couple but had success every time (FWIW, I have the same frame as you). Grease is a good idea, lock-tite is a risk.

If the bearings are installed correctly and the fit is good, they'll likely last the life of the bike. The important thing is to know that this system can be slightly more finicky than simply finger pressing them into place. There have been BB issues of one kind or another since we went away from square-tapers. This configuration has advantages that are worth the trouble (light weight, OE crank compatibility, better chainstay spacing, etc.). Work with your shop, have them call Trek. If you have an issue that they can't fix, Trek will back it up.


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## gottaserotta

Hey thanks! I've got one of the best LBS around - great guys, very helpful and always willing to look further into an issue than anyone I've ever worked with. I'll bring this along tonight and see what they say. thanks for the insight!


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## leggie1972

*Madone bb90*

I had the noisy bottom bracket problem on a 2011 5.2 madone after 2 weeks of riding ,the LBS didnt know what it was,after numerous new BB and chain rings it went back to trek and they traced it to the BB bearing moving in the frame,there solution was a v2 bottom bracket bearings ,"the v2 bearing has a 0.2mm shim which is designed to fill the gap between the frame and the bearing.That has stopped the slight play in the chain set and should resolve the problem of the bottom bracket wearing prematurely." quoted from the letter the LBS received from Trek.I also had the same problem on a madone 5.9 2011.


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## gormleyflyer2002

yah, except you now have a non standard bike and those V2 bearings are warranty parts and not stocked at any Trek stores...........its a BS repair, sad sad sad.

sux when on vacation and after a few wet rides you need spares - oops, your "special"


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## gottaserotta

So the BB90 issue that I was having on the 5.9 Madone from 4-2011 was that the darn bearings would lose their grease and become contaminated and start squealing like a squirrel whose tail was caught in a grinder. Called Trek personally to express my 'displeasure'. They suggested that a new set of bearings would solve the problem - it did. BUT I then called my buddy in Colorado (also known as best wrench around) and he told me his solution has worked fairly well. Get new bearings, take off the dust cover with very sharp very small object. Re-pack with PHIL's waterproof grease and reseal the bearing. Replace bearings. Ride. It should last about twice as long this time through. We'll see. The key he said was NOT to buy the expensive ceramic bearings because they too will get contaminated and start making horrible sounds. So I ordered 4 sets of bearings online and a tube of PHILs - wish me luck! This new design is great for weight savings, not so great for ease of maintenance. thanks everyone for your insights!


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## okiefo

gormleyflyer2002 said:


> yah, except you now have a non standard bike and those V2 bearings are warranty parts and not stocked at any Trek stores...........its a BS repair, sad sad sad.
> 
> sux when on vacation and after a few wet rides you need spares - oops, your "special"


Actually the V2 bearing is readily available through any Trek dealer. At worst, they'd have to order it from Trek.


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## leggie1972

Trek fit the v2 bearings ,not the BS and the warranty is unaffected.


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## gormleyflyer2002

my local bike said V2 bearings only available as warranty claim - he could not just order from standard stock ! warranty unaffected ! funny, except for the oversize bearing location on your frame - funny stuff leggie.....band aid at best


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## gottaserotta

Well said - however, I'm replacing almost every 1K (give or take a few hundred) and I'm NOT riding in the rain, or muddy conditions. While replacing the bearings is no big deal on these bikes - doing it three/four times in a season is a bit much. And given how persnickety I am about making sure my bikes are in top condition, it's a bit of a PITA. My suggestion would be to come up with a better seal on the bearings themselves. The non-drive side is always the set that goes bad.


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## early one

gottaserotta said:


> They suggested that a new set of bearings would solve the problem - it did. BUT I then called my buddy in Colorado (also known as best wrench around) and he told me his solution has worked fairly well. Get new bearings, take off the dust cover with very sharp very small object. Re-pack with PHIL's waterproof grease and reseal the bearing. Replace bearings. Ride. It should last about twice as long this time through. We'll see. The key he said was NOT to buy the expensive ceramic bearings because they too will get contaminated and start making horrible sounds. So I ordered 4 sets of bearings online and a tube of PHILs - wish me luck! This new design is great for weight savings, not so great for ease of maintenance. thanks everyone for your insights!


So Trek and your friend recommended to service the bearings the way it should be done, and when you did, it worked.


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## okiefo

gottaserotta said:


> Well said - however, I'm replacing almost every 1K (give or take a few hundred) and I'm NOT riding in the rain, or muddy conditions. While replacing the bearings is no big deal on these bikes - doing it three/four times in a season is a bit much. And given how persnickety I am about making sure my bikes are in top condition, it's a bit of a PITA. My suggestion would be to come up with a better seal on the bearings themselves. The non-drive side is always the set that goes bad.


What I do with my own bearings on my Madone is that I slather a really good waterproof grease (my favorite is Rock-n-Roll Super Coat....it stays put!!) inside the cups before the bearings go in, then all over the bearing before the orange seal, and/or the metal NDS cover goes on. The grease keeps water and crap from getting to the bearing in the first place. I'll pull off the cranks and clean and re-apply the grease to the surfaces about 2-3 times a year and I have no problems. Its just routine maintenance.


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## Howeclectic

*Sometimes it's not the bb*

I just fixed the creaking on my madone. I kept getting a creaking noise when I stood out of the pedals. I cleaned and regressed the bottom bracket seats and cleaned And regreased the stearer. Still heard creaking. That's when I noticed it seemed to occur with a lot of pressure on the chain. I tightened my rear wheel skewer and..... Problem solved. Turns out the bottom bracket was perfectly fine.... The pressure on the cassette was causing rubbing at the frame/axle connection on the rear wheel when torque was applied.


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## johntrek5

Over 7,000 trouble free hard use miles on my 2011 5.2. Hope i am not jinxing myself!


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## zracre

My 2011 Madone 4.5 started developing the creak 3 months ago. Trek store replaced 3 sets so far and now I'm ready for the 4th. This time they said its probably the pedals and are going to warranty them. Swapped them and it is def the BB bearings. I really don't want to replace them every 2 weeks. I do not want to mess with it under warranty as they are doing them free now but I will print out the repack info and bring it to them. Thanks for the insight!


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## gabkr

*Bearings*

I had a bearing problem,2011 5.2 Madone,got caught in downpour week before,bearing leaking brown goo and running rough,pulled the seal cover and repacked for now.Has anyone tried the Enduro Abec5 bearings? The Madones come with a Abec3 Enduro MR2437llb,24x37x7. Want to upgrade without the price of ceramics.


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## nickelsworth

Just had the BB on my 5.2 replaced with V2's they are now a solid bearing without the shim, was told they are a standard stock item. I want to ride them for a while before I order more sets.


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## TFR

*2011 madone 5.9 BB wrecked frame*

My crank appeared loose and brought it to shop. They found that bearings went bad, seized on the axle and wrecked the frame (destroyef the BB area where bearings sit.
TREK won't warranty. I did have about 2500-3000 miles on it, but never felt anything wrong until it went.
After checking with several bike shops, and 3 freinds (all 3 had BB failures or crank problems, with 3 different bikes with similar bearing system: Supersix EVO, MAdone 6.9, and Specialized Ruby Pro).
In summary- BB30 and BB90 systems are finicky, and will not l;ast long on average. Need to check frequently. TREK said to replace at least every 2,000 miles.
My bearings were ceramic, so don't think they are better.


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## pezlos

*3rd set of BB90 bearings on 2012 madone 6.2*

It sounds like my problem isn't unique after reading these posts. I have a 2012 Madone 6.2 and the non-drive side bearing has failed twice in under 1,500 miles, and I think the 3rd bearing is on the way out. I bought the frame new on Ebay and had the frame built out with Ultegra components. The first time the the non-drive side bearing went bad, the shop replaced it and said that it went bad from water intrusion. I never wash my bike with a hose and it never gets wet because I do not ride it in the rain. The bearing were dry and made a squeaky wheel type of noise. The mechanic noticed that the grease was a rust color and that is why he concluded that the bearing somehow got wet and failed. The first set last about 1400 miles. The second set failed in four rides for a total of about 200 miles. Same high pitched squeaking noise and only the non-drive side. I even went so far after the bearings were replaced to put a small bead of silicon just above the bottom bracket area so any water coming from my water bottle in the cage would be directed around the bottom bracket shell opening; that seems to really work in keeping water from entering this area.

I noticed that there was no axle shield installed when the bike was built out, but I just assumed that it wasn't needed because the mechanic that did the build out gave me the extra parts that he didn't use. I bought the frame new on Ebay and it came with some extra stuff. The mechanic that built my bike no longer works at that shop, so when the 1st bearing failed to took it to another reputable shop near where I live. The mechanic there was the one that mentioned possible water intrusion and proceeded to replace both bearings. But he didn't install the axle shield either which I discovered today when I removed the crankset to take a look. I called a Trek dealer (there are none within a 100 miles of where I live) and the mechanic said that the axle shield should be installed. 

Everything that I have read about this bike says that the bearings can be removed and installed by hand since they just go right into the frame and that a press isn't necessary. Well, I cannot remove the bearings by hand because they seem to be pretty tight in the shell. I want to remove the bearing so I may install the axle shield because I am thinking that this may help. The Trek mechanic said that the axle shields are part of the bearing kit because they should be used for this bike.

One last thing that I want to mention that could be part of the problem: the part of the axle that comes into contact with the inside of the non-drive bearing has a slight ring on the surface from where it comes into contact with the bearing, but the ring on the axle is not continuous; it goes maybe 2/3 of the way around the axle. This tells me that the bearing may not be aligned in the frame correctly, and I am wondering if the axle shield would make a difference. I am not even sure exactly what the purpose of the axel shield is since since the axle is concealed in the frame. Do the flanges at the ends of each half of the seal play any role in the bearings being aligned? 

Fortunately, I do not have the problem of loose bearings in the frame like some others have experienced. Since I bought this frame on Ebay, I know that Trek will not warranty it, so I want to be careful to not mess this fame up. Any ideas on how I should remove the bearings and reinstall them? Thanks!


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## Ruklin

I have over 7,000 miles on my Madoneq's BB with no issues.


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## Tlaloc

*Extra Parts!?*



pezlos said:


> ...I noticed that there was no axle shield installed when the bike was built out, but I just assumed that it wasn't needed because the mechanic that did the build out gave me the extra parts that he didn't use...


It sounds like the mechanic really ****ed up. Take it to a Trek dealer and have it done correctly. This means with the axle shield and other seals. It has to be done with a bearing press and lots of grease so the bearings will seat correctly. After you ride several times you should retighten the left crank arm. On Shimano this requires a special tool to tighten the arm onto the axle and a torque wrench to tighten the crank bolts.

You can lookup the correct procedure on trek's web site.


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## pezlos

*I will have the axle shields installed*

I did call the Trek bike shop in La Mesa, CA, and the mechanic was very cool in taking a few minutes to explain the BB90 installation process. Grrrr, the only problem I have besides the bottom bracket being installed without the axle shield is that the nearest Trek bike shop is a whopping 110 miles or so from where I live (near Pasadena). The shop that replaced the bearings the last time is also a Trek dealer, though they sell other bikes as well. I suspect that this mechanic didn't install the axle shield because the mechanic at a different shop that originally built the bike out in July didn't install the axle shield, so he may have assumed that it wasn't necessary since he didn't see one already installed when he removed the bearings for replacement. I know that the bearing shield is part of the Shimano bearing kit for this model Madone, however. The mechanic that replaced the first set of bearings replaced them again (now on my 3rd set) for free (parts and labor) since the second set lasted only 200 miles. He's a cool mechanic, so I hope he doesn't mind removing and reinstalling the bearings with the axle shield. Heck, I'd even offer to pay again if I know that it is done correctly. 

Still, I do not really know whether the axle shields would make a difference with the non drive side bearing failing prematurely. I guess that I will find out. Thanks all who responded.


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## Tlaloc

*Closer dealers*

There's a dealer locator on Trek's web site. According to it there are dealers closer than 110 miles:

http://locator.trekbikes.com/search...+California&latitude=&longitude=&search_term=


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## pezlos

*Trek dealers*

I know that there are Trek dealers closer to Pasadena than 110 miles away, but I was referring to an actual Trek store that sells only Trek bikes that is 110 miles away. I did in fact take my Madone to an authorized Trek dealer, but not to a Trek store. I know that it shouldn't really make a difference, it's just that I figure that mechanics at a Trek store only work on Trek bikes so they would probably know how to property install the bb90 bearings. I will be calling the mechanic at the local dealer today.


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## MPov

pezlos said:


> I know that there are Trek dealers closer to Pasadena than 110 miles away, but I was referring to an actual Trek store that sells only Trek bikes that is 110 miles away. I did in fact take my Madone to an authorized Trek dealer, but not to a Trek store. I know that it shouldn't really make a difference, it's just that I figure that mechanics at a Trek store only work on Trek bikes so they would probably know how to property install the bb90 bearings. I will be calling the mechanic at the local dealer today.


There are good and bad mechanics at every shop. I'm sure even the Trek store has some that are less competent than others. Find an LBS with good mechanics and patronize regularly.


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## jaggrin

gottaserotta said:


> Well said - however, I'm replacing almost every 1K (give or take a few hundred) and I'm NOT riding in the rain, or muddy conditions. While replacing the bearings is no big deal on these bikes - doing it three/four times in a season is a bit much. And given how persnickety I am about making sure my bikes are in top condition, it's a bit of a PITA. My suggestion would be to come up with a better seal on the bearings themselves. The non-drive side is always the set that goes bad.


I have the same isse and I don't ride it in rain or muddy conditions. It's a pain in the butt and such an obvious design flaw yet Trek would never admit to it.


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## cxwrench

jaggrin said:


> I have the same isse and I don't ride it in rain or muddy conditions. It's a pain in the butt and such an obvious design flaw yet Trek would never admit to it.


you did read my reply to your other post, right? if there are thousands and thousands of these frames out there...and maybe 'dozens' of complaints at most, is that a design flaw? or is it incorrect installation and/or maintenance as i said? 
install the bearings properly and remember, grease is your (cheap) friend.


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## dontazame

'.and maybe 'dozens' of complaints at most'

Add me to those 'dozens'.


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## fivekabob

I have replaced my bearings once last Feb for my 2012 Madone 4.7. I rode it in the Palm Springs Century and there was a sand storm during it and my bike and I got blasted. Last month I took a header and landed in the beach sand off the El Seg/ManBea strand and after my bike was cleaned (by my personal but not shop mechanic) I notice a crunchy sound when rotating the crank in a controlled environment...(quiet garage on stand). So my buddy is going to try to procure some bearings from Trek and take care of my issue. The bike is rideable but he wants to correct it. I'll ask him to read through this thread for tips.


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## cxwrench

fivekabob said:


> I have replaced my bearings once last Feb for my 2012 Madone 4.7. I rode it in the Palm Springs Century and there was a sand storm during it and my bike and I got blasted. Last month I took a header and landed in the beach sand off the El Seg/ManBea strand and after my bike was cleaned (by my personal but not shop mechanic) I notice a crunchy sound when rotating the crank in a controlled environment...(quiet garage on stand). So my buddy is going to try to procure some bearings from Trek and take care of my issue. The bike is rideable but he wants to correct it. I'll ask him to read through this thread for tips.


it's painfully simple. use lots of grease and make sure they go in straight. that's about all there is to it.


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## okiefo

cxwrench said:


> it's painfully simple. use lots of grease and make sure they go in straight. that's about all there is to it.


+1000 

Grease.


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## TCW1

I like resurrecting threads. The other day I noticed a little play in my Ultegra crankset on my 2011 Madone 5.2. So, put it on the stand, loosened the pinch bolts and applied a little torque (about 1 NM) to the pre-load plastic bolt. This was too much torque as the cranks had quite a bit of drag when I spun them without the chain on. So, I disassembled the entire crankset to take a look. First thing I noticed, the non-drive side bearing just fell out of the frame. The frame looked fine, just that the bearing seemed too small to have been pressed in. When I pulled the drive side of the crank off the bearing came out with it. Again, the frame looked fine but the bearing seemed too small. 

Does this mean my bike requires the V2 bearing to fit tighter? If that's the case is this a warranty replacement item?


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## grashoverride

Yes, you need the V2 bearing. It should be installed with a bearing press. It is a warranty replacement, or at least it was for me.


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## Buykerboy

The molded composite bottom bracket bearing seats on several Trek branded composite frames are known to be out of specification, a combination of bearing bore diameter and roundness. This is why sometime re-positioning the cartridge bearing within the BB shell appears to improve the fit of the bearing to the BB shell. Ultimately the bearing will be too loose for the application - the result will manifest as a loose crank. There is no 100% correction for this after the fact except to get a new frame or 'glue' the bearing into place with an expanding adhesive (not recommended by the frame manufacture) -- but at some point if the mfg will not replace your frame and you want to still use it... glue in a new set of bearings and go... You can confirm a size issue by measuring the BB shell bearing bore diameter at multiple locations...if a measurement is larger than the measured bearing outer race diameter... you will most likely get place in your crank. Shimano cranks are somewhat more tolerant of potential play because the play can sometimes be pulled tight as you laterally pre-load the crank during install. Sram cranks on this system are more likely to experience play if the crank bottoms out on the BB spindle before bottoming out on the shoulders of the BB shell bearing bores.


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## grashoverride

Yes, there is 100% correction to that issue and it's called v2 bearings. After I placed them in my Madone frame I had no more issues with the BB. Now I have new Emonda frame that have developed the same problem and I am waiting for the warranty claim to process.


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## Buykerboy

gras - so you have a new frame, Emonda, and it developed the same problem, correct? I wonder why the product is not just made with V2 bearings to begin with -- if that solves the problem all the time. Bummer - hope you are able to get it working soon.


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## grashoverride

When I got it one year ago it was fine with the standard bearings. Now, during some maintenance I noticed that the bearings are loose as on my last frame. I guess some frames develop that issue over time, when they are new the standard bearings are ok, but after some time the get loose, and then the v2 solve that problem. I know for a fact, that there are frames, that are ok with the standard bearings for long time. Just my luck is the problem I guess...


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