# Roubaix SL2 vs. SL4 Question/Help



## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

I am having a dilemma. I currently ride a 2010 Roubaix SL2 frame and am considering upgrading to a 2013 Roubaix Expert SL4. For those of you who have ridden the 2, would you be able to tell me if there is a noticable difference in the 2 frames enough for an upgrade? Mainly looking at stiffness.

I took a test ride just around the parking lot on the SL4 and it did feel stiffer, but my time on the bike was very limited and it wasnt even the correct size. 

Anyway, would anyone care to help me out on this? I want to make sure that it would be worth paying the $3600 for the new bike before I make the jump!

Thanks for any help!


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## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

The short answer to your question is No.

The question to your question is why your are looking for increased stiffness in the Roubaix? Get a race bike not an endurance bike if stiffness is what you are looking for.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

dcgriz, thanks for the reply.

The reason I like the Roubaix is for the more relaxed geometry. The tarmac is a bit aggressive for me. I rode the tarmac side by side with the SL4 last week and like the geometry of the Roubaix.

Specialized is claiming the SL4 Roubaix is much stiffer this year. That's why I was considering it. My SL2 seems a bit flexy. (Not sure if thats a word or not. )


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

I recently did something similar going from a 2011 Specialized Roubaix Elite to a 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert and the difference is huge. Everything from power transfer to handling, the bike is very stiff and not to mention more comfortable with the larger zertz. Overall I'm very happy to switch over and would not go back.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Adrian, Thank you for your reply! This is the exact information I was looking for. This is the same transition I am considering. Sounds like the SL4 lives up to the hype! Thanks so much for taking time to reply! Gorgeous bike!
View attachment 275166


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## jgt_madone_newb (Jul 14, 2008)

My experience echoes Adrian's. I test rode SL2 and SL3 bikes before deciding on my SL4 Expert, and the difference was very noticeable, surprising, even. It really answers the need for a bike with a relaxed geometry that is still light, fast, and stiff - "fun", in a word. I'm very happy with mine. There are plenty of people who would want a bike like a Roubaix with increased stiffness. This is it.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

jgt, thank your for your comment. Your bike looks fantastic! I have a test ride tomorrow on the correct size bike for me. If all goes well I may bring it home with me! 

Are your wheels clinchers or tubulars?


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## jgt_madone_newb (Jul 14, 2008)

the_opt said:


> jgt, thank your for your comment. Your bike looks fantastic! I have a test ride tomorrow on the correct size bike for me. If all goes well I may bring it home with me!
> 
> Are your wheels clinchers or tubulars?


My wheelset is the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLR. They are aluminum rims with carbon fairing. The rim has a hardened black "exalith" coating which provides an improved braking surface, and also makes it easy to confuse them for a full carbon wheel. First time I took the bike in to the shop for a complimentary "300 mile checkup", the mechanic called, insisting I needed to put some cork brake pads on, so I didn't ruin my carbon wheels. They have the matching Mavic Yksion front-and-rear specific tires, which so far, I like a lot.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

I also upgraded from an SL2 to an SL4 Roubaix. They did tweak the geometry on the bike a bit. They lowered the spacer stack 1 CM. Chain and seat stays are straighter and wider. Top tube seems straighter. You go from 8r to 10r carbon. Its lighter, and stiffer. The SL4 rides great and is very responsive. Am I any faster? No, but its hard to say. The reason I replaced the bike was a crash that broke the bike and some bones. I'm back and doing well, but lost some fitness and its cold riding season. Cant really make a good comparison.

View attachment 275259


View attachment 275177
View attachment 275178


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Scottma, Would you say that the stiffness difference is noticeable? 

Also would you say that knowing what you know now, had you not crashed your bike, you would still upgrade? (tough question i know) HAHA!

Thanks,


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

I think it would be best for you to take a bike of the proper size out for a ride where you could judge for yourself. The SL4 to me just has a different feel to it. It "feels" more responsive sort of like a Tarmac without the twitchiness that (to me) a Tarmac has. Its fast, responsive, but still rides very nice. I really liked my SL2 and being the cheapskate that I am, I dont know if I would have upgraded to the SL4 if I didn't crash the SL2. Hard to say. In the end, I'm very happy with the SL4.


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

You guys make me wanna go buy some carbon wheels. Great looking bikes.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Have any of you weighed your bikes? Anyone race or just ride for fun?


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

My bike is heavy like 18.2 or so if I remember, that's with pedals and cages. Heavier than my last bike which was 16.3 but I enjoy the roubaix more.

Edit. 56cm


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

My frame is a 54. With the ~ 1400g Roval CF wheels, pedals and cages it is right at 17#. The Ultegra groupset is not particularly light.


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## jgt_madone_newb (Jul 14, 2008)

My SL4 is a 54cm frame. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me allegedly weighed it back in the shop. Completely stock, with my cromo Speedplay Zeros and 2 Arundel carbon cages, he proclaimed it "right at 16 lbs". Which means either their scale really needs calibrating, or he misspoke by one or two pounds.

The stock DT Swiss wheels are heavy, as are most of the components. I've removed some weight with my wheel set, as well as an S Works seat post and Fizik Antares 00 saddle. Just installed some S Works carbon bars, but thats as part of the Di2 upgrade, which is going to add some weight. Guess when its done, I should weigh to see where its at. Next big weight reduction problem is with the motor, of course. Makes all the little 100 gram differences pretty trivial.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

54 stock wheels, pedals and cages is ~ 17.5ish

Di2 is a nice upgrade. One thing so far I'm not thrilled with is the shifting. My 2011 comp 105 shifted better. My assumption is the added cable friction from the internal routing slows things down. Maybe needs more adjustment. IDK


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

scottma said:


> 54 stock wheels, pedals and cages is ~ 17.5ish
> 
> Di2 is a nice upgrade. One thing so far I'm not thrilled with is the shifting. My 2011 comp 105 shifted better. My assumption is the added cable friction from the internal routing slows things down. Maybe needs more adjustment. IDK


Look into Gore shifting cables.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Thanks for the tip. I'll check into that.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Well thanks to the feedback I received here I bought the SL4 Roubaix Expert today! Thanks for your help. I will post pics tomorrow! I still have the plastic and reflectors to remove.


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Congrats! What color did you get? Look forward to the pics.


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

So I guess you really enjoyed the test ride. Congrats.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Same color as you and Adrian. Seriously the picture doesnt capture the beauty of this thing. I still have the old pedals and such on it, but got the reflectors off. Cant wait for the weather to turn so i can actually ride it!

View attachment 275281


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

post deleted, accidentally posted twice


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

the_opt said:


> Same color as you and Adrian. Seriously the picture doesnt capture the beauty of this thing. I still have the old pedals and such on it, but got the reflectors off. Cant wait for the weather to turn so i can actually ride it!


Yeah, I love the color scheme of this years Expert. Looks really nice in person. The stock wheels also go very well with the bike. I had the Roval wheels on day one and have never ridden the stock wheels yet. They seem a little heavy but look like decent wheels. I have them as backups which is handy. I got tired of dirty white tape on the old bike, so I put red Fizik on this one.

Cold and very windy here in the DC area today, but I'm going out tomorow for ~ 70 mi. Supposed to be high of 46 and sunny but not windy.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

I have some 2012 Dura Ace C35's coming that I think are going to look real nice on this bike. I live in Idaho and the weather is really crazy right now. some days it's nice and sunny and other days cold, snowing and windy. Today it's real windy. I'll get this beast out for some miles soon enough!


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

I was very close to buying a set of C24s for the new bike. A good deal on the CLX40s (take offs from an S-Works Tarmac) came up so I grabbed them. The C35s should be very nice.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

I hope so. They had good reviews. I've been running Ultegra wheels on my SL2 and for and inexpensive wheel they do really well. Lighter and stiffer and roll really well than anything stock gives you. I will get some pics up when i get them on the bike. May be a week or so till they arrive.


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## TmB123 (Feb 8, 2013)

My understanding of the SL4 frameset is that they stiffened it up - a lot, to make it racier, some 19% (at least for the S-Works) if you believe what Specialized say. I think they removed a lot of the compliance out of the frame and then reintroduced it with the COBL GOBLR post. I couldnt put the new post on my SL4 because it has a bigger setback than a standard post. There is absolutley no noticeable flex in my bike and the ride is still smooth. I dont know how much can be attributed to the frame, wheels or the combo though.

My S-Works Roubaix is fairly stock and comes in at 6.8kg (14.99 lb) with pedals and cages running Dura Ace 9000 and Zipp 202 FC on a 52cm frame.

Some nice looking Roubaix's in this thread! :thumbsup:


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

That COBL GOBLR is really ugly IMO. If it has more setback than a standard setback seat post that is also an issue. Unless you are riding incredibly rough roads I don't see a need for it. I could see a good use for it on CX bikes. TmB123 I saw your bike in the Spesh forum. Very nice!


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## SRV (Dec 26, 2006)

OP, that SL2 looks to be about a 56. I know you're itching to sell it to me, right?


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

Hope you can deal with the white bar tape longer than I did. Looks great.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Actually yes it is a 56. Are you looking for one? I have considered selling it.


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## chandne (Jan 22, 2004)

Me too. Just got a 2013 SL4 Expert Compact Di2. Need to build it up as soon as I get some time. Should be one heck of a smooth ride.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Chandne you need to post a pic of your ride!


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

I got my bike out tonight for a 15 mile ride before it got dark. The stiffness is nice! I still havent put my good pedals on it and im still tweaking seat positioning. I definately feel that it puts the power to the ground better than the SL2 did. I cant wait to get my new wheels on it and see what difference that makes. These DT 4.0's seem lethargic and heavy. Even my Ultegra wheels on my SL2 felt way better than these.


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## eflayer2 (Feb 15, 2002)

I have a 2009 S-Works frameset available:

2009 Specialized S-Works Roubaix frameset 58cm


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## chandne (Jan 22, 2004)

Will post pics soon. I'm waiting for my wheelset before I can build it up though. Coincidentally, I have a frameset as well- a 2009 or 2010 SL2 S-Works in 56 cm. It was too small for me and I didn't ride it much. I had just started truly road biking in 2009/2010 too. Sadly, I took two years off (mainly been Jeeping offroad and traveling) and just decided to get a right-sized frame. Missed cycling too much, and looking forward to this season. I'm even planning some Jeep trips where we also take the road bikes and ride in the most scenic areas of Colorado...Aspen, Telluride, Ouray, Crested Butte. It's going to be fantastic!


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Adrianinkc said:


> Hope you can deal with the white bar tape longer than I did. Looks great.


I rode my SL2 for 2 years with dirty white tape. Could never keep it clean. The SL4 I rode twice before changing to the red Fizik tape.



the_opt said:


> I got my bike out tonight for a 15 mile ride before it got dark. The stiffness is nice! I still havent put my good pedals on it and im still tweaking seat positioning. I definately feel that it puts the power to the ground better than the SL2 did. I cant wait to get my new wheels on it and see what difference that makes. These DT 4.0's seem lethargic and heavy. Even my Ultegra wheels on my SL2 felt way better than these.


Glad you had a break in the weather to get the bike out for a ride. I still have never ridden the stock wheels. Guess they are not too great. Will you use the stock tires?


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## Chris0612 (Feb 2, 2013)

nice bike...


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## Chris0612 (Feb 2, 2013)

*need advice*

newbie here, i need some advice to choose my first bike between: 1. Specialized roubaix elite 2. cannondale synapse 105 3. pinarello (dont know the comfort bike type) 4. trek madone 3.1 or another brand my budget around 2000usd. i prefer comfort bike than race bike. thx


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

I still have the stock wheels on my bike, the first thing I did was replace the tires and put some 4 season conti's. They seem fine for what they are, not in a rush to swap them.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Not sure if you are a mountain biker but have you ever been to Moab, Utah? That place is awesome for both Mountain Bikes and Jeeps! I ride dirt bikes there and it's incredible.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

I bought some Continental GP4000s for the new wheels, so Im going to try those out. Ive never ridden on the Continental but they seem to be a pretty popular tire.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Chris you have a good list of bikes there. In my opinion any of them would be a great starter bike. Actually they are all better than my starter bike. I bought a Specialized Allez. Of course it's an aluminum bike, but i really like the carbon fiber better. I have a 2010 Specialized Roubaix Elite and it has worked very well for me for the last 2 years and a couple other guys here also have ridden it. I think you really couldnt go wrong with any of the bikes. The main thing is to get one and get riding!!  I remember when i was looking for my first bike. Looking back it would be hard to know exactly what bike to get until you get some experience riding and seeing what you are looking for. 

The problem i have now is that i love cycling and cant stop upgrading!! HAHA!!


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Chris0612 said:


> newbie here, i need some advice to choose my first bike between: 1. Specialized roubaix elite 2. cannondale synapse 105 3. pinarello (dont know the comfort bike type) 4. trek madone 3.1 or another brand my budget around 2000usd. i prefer comfort bike than race bike. thx


In a Trek, the Domane would be the one to look at in this category, not the Madone.



the_opt said:


> I bought some Continental GP4000s for the new wheels, so Im going to try those out. Ive never ridden on the Continental but they seem to be a pretty popular tire.


Thats what I'm running (25c size). I had them on the old bike and got ~ 6000mi on them and only one flat.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Adrian, What model tires are you running? I bought the Continental GP4000's for my Dura Ace wheels that are coming. Are you running a 700x23 or 700x25?


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## chandne (Jan 22, 2004)

the_opt said:


> Not sure if you are a mountain biker but have you ever been to Moab, Utah? That place is awesome for both Mountain Bikes and Jeeps! I ride dirt bikes there and it's incredible.


I'll assume that question was meant for me.  I have been mtb-ing in Moab- incredible, but I went once 5 years ago and need to go back this year. I have also been to Fruita twice. This time, I'll spend 3-4 days in Moab and take the Jeep and the mtb. Moab is a version of cycling heaven.


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## Adrianinkc (Nov 13, 2011)

the_opt said:


> Adrian, What model tires are you running? I bought the Continental GP4000's for my Dura Ace wheels that are coming. Are you running a 700x23 or 700x25?


I'm running continental 4 seasons 700x25. It's basically a mix between the 4000s and gatorskin.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Well I decided to put the old bike up for sale. I really dont have a need for 2 bikes.

2010 Specialized Roubaix SL2 Elite - 56cm - Excellent Cond.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Key to get the Ultegra to shift smooth is to re-route the shifter cable on the backside of the handlebar. This smooths out the turn of the cable, reducing friction.

Also Shimano doesn't recommend internal cable routing on the bikes for the shifting as it increases friction. But upgrading to Gore cables over the OEM cables makes a huge difference.

Ran into sluggish Ultegra issues on a number of new bikes with internal cables at the LBS I work for. Re-route on most of these bikes fixed the problem.


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## Chris0612 (Feb 2, 2013)

Yesterday i tried roubaix and tarmac, all sl3 2011 with ultegra set , i prefer tarmac.. Now i want to buy one, but still confuse to choose between tarmac expert sl3 2011 ultegra and tarmac sport 2013 105 set. They price are close about 2500usd and 2200usd. Both are new. Which one i must buy? Need advice.. Prefer older bike with good Set or younger bike with 105? Thank you


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## scottma (May 18, 2012)

Thanks. My 5700 105 equipped Roubaix and now the same components moved to a Surly Crosscheck frame has the same handlebar cable routing as the new bike. Both of the 105 bikes shift better that the 2013 Roubaix with the 6700 Ultegra and internal cable routing. This is why my suspicion is it the internal routing that causes the slower shifting. Not that it is horrible or anything, but I can tell a difference. The Gore cables kind of scare me. Many user reviews state that they work well initially, then the coating comes off and causes more issues than you want to deal with. I've read similar reviews on other coated cables. It would be bad if the coating came off in the internal cable routing tubes. maybe I'll just bring it back to the LBS and see what they have to say. Again, not a huge deal, but I can notice it.



frdfandc said:


> Key to get the Ultegra to shift smooth is to re-route the shifter cable on the backside of the handlebar. This smooths out the turn of the cable, reducing friction.
> 
> Also Shimano doesn't recommend internal cable routing on the bikes for the shifting as it increases friction. But upgrading to Gore cables over the OEM cables makes a huge difference.
> 
> Ran into sluggish Ultegra issues on a number of new bikes with internal cables at the LBS I work for. Re-route on most of these bikes fixed the problem.


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Well I got my wheels today. Here's the pic. Took it out last Saturday for 40 miles. Great ride!!

View attachment 275944


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## Chris0612 (Feb 2, 2013)

the_opt said:


> Well I got my wheels today. Here's the pic. Took it out last Saturday for 40 miles. Great ride!!
> 
> View attachment 275944


Wow thumbs up! Nice..


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Question to the other SL4 owners. Anyone having any little rattles in the front end of the bike? I cannot tell if its cable related or something else. It was spuratic and not consistent. Smooth roads it wasnt as bad but on chip sealed road it was just a constant rattle. Not real loud but enough to catch my attention. I grabbed the cables that run in front of the handlebar and it seemed to deaden it but didnt completely subside. Any ideas?

Thanks!


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## TmB123 (Feb 8, 2013)

the_opt said:


> Question to the other SL4 owners. Anyone having any little rattles in the front end of the bike? I cannot tell if its cable related or something else. It was spuratic and not consistent. Smooth roads it wasnt as bad but on chip sealed road it was just a constant rattle. Not real loud but enough to catch my attention. I grabbed the cables that run in front of the handlebar and it seemed to deaden it but didnt completely subside. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!


I get the odd rattle here and there, mainly from the cables on the left side of the head tube. If I put my hand on them it stops. Maybe try putting some clear spongy tape or frame saver or whatever its called on the side of the head tube, it may deaden it a bit. Im not 100% sure, but think there may also be a rattle from a cable inside the frame on the odd bump, but its not very often


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

TmB123 said:


> I get the odd rattle here and there, mainly from the cables on the left side of the head tube. If I put my hand on them it stops. Maybe try putting some clear spongy tape or frame saver or whatever its called on the side of the head tube, it may deaden it a bit. Im not 100% sure, but think there may also be a rattle from a cable inside the frame on the odd bump, but its not very often


Yes that's the area its coming from. I will check that out. Thanks!


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## TrailRiver (Feb 21, 2013)

Just upgraded my SL3 Pro to an SL4 pro. It feels much racier for sure and the new 11 speed Dura-Ace is way smoother.
View attachment 276207
View attachment 276208


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## the_opt (Jul 13, 2011)

Gorgeous bike! How do you like those Zipp wheels?


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## TrailRiver (Feb 21, 2013)

the_opt said:


> Gorgeous bike! How do you like those Zipp wheels?


Just put them on today. I plan to convert them to tubeless, just waiting on the stans valve extenders. I'll update soon.


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## doval_tg (Feb 27, 2013)

*Hello*

Wow, specialized is good.


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## doval_tg (Feb 27, 2013)

Hello, Your bike is very beautiful!!


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## TmB123 (Feb 8, 2013)

TrailRiver said:


> Just upgraded my SL3 Pro to an SL4 pro. It feels much racier for sure and the new 11 speed Dura-Ace is way smoother.
> View attachment 276207
> View attachment 276208


Those 303's look great! I changed my mind 10 times a day between the 303's and the 202's that I eventually got. love them.


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