# Shimano Octalink bottom bracket - what tools needed?



## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

I need to remove and then install a Shimano Octalink bottom bracket (6503 crank). I have a full set of all size allen wrenches, including for my 3/8" drive ratchet, large open end wrenches, torque wrenches and other "normal" tools.

What special tools do I need?

Thanks.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

To remove and install the BB you'll need a Shimano-compatible BB tool:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=BBT-22


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## DaveT (Feb 12, 2004)

Camilo said:


> I need to remove and then install a Shimano Octalink bottom bracket (6503 crank). I have a full set of all size allen wrenches, including for my 3/8" drive ratchet, large open end wrenches, torque wrenches and other "normal" tools.
> 
> What special tools do I need?
> 
> Thanks.


You will also need an 8MM hex bit (for your 3/8" ratchet) to remove and reinstall the crank arms.
Reminder: The bottom bracket cups unscrew counter-clockwise on the non-driveside and clockwise on the driveside. Reverse for installation. 

A torque wrench is your friend when installing the bottom bracket and crank arms (25~35 ft lbs). I would also tell you to liberally grease all interfaces: BB cups and BB shell, OctaLink splines, crankbolt threads, the head of the crankbolt and the dustcap threads.


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## jamesau (Apr 22, 2002)

Note also the splines are very shallow. It's a very good idea to use the technique illustrated (with wheel quick-release to hold things together) in this link: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Thanks gentlemen. I got the Octalink tool (a shimano one, probably old-ish, that a friend had lying around) I already have a full set of hex keys for the 3/8" drive and large and small beam type torque wrenches. Printed the parktool site linked by jamesau and the Shimano tech sheets. I'm thinking this will be easier than the last bottom bracket I did which was - believe it - in the early 80s, cottered crank, cone and cup bearings.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

OK - got the drive side crank arm off (self extracting), but have a couple more questions.

Unfortunately the BB tool my friend loaned me didn't work. It looks like the spline pattern is good, but it would not fit over the spindle so could not engage the splines. I'll go to a bike shop with the frame+crank in tow to get the right tool. I did note that the Shimano part number stamped onto this tool does not match the part number on the Shimano technical document for this crank. I was hoping it was just an older p/n superseded by the other one,but no luck on that. 

But the non-drive side arm poses some questions.

Do I need to remove the non-drive arm to transfer this bottom bracket to a new frame?

If so, how to get it off. I removed the bolt that attaches the non-drive crank arm to the spindle, and tried to remove the arm, but it didn't budge. 

Is it necessary to remove it?

Should it come right off - and therefore this one is a problem? 

Do you tap it prudently with a mallot to work it off? 

Do you beat the crap out of it with a mallot? (joking). 

Do I need a crank extractor. Note - the other side was self extracting, but this side, apparently, is not.

Thanks again!


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## Mersault (Jan 3, 2005)

Camilo said:


> OK - got the drive side crank arm off (self extracting), but have a couple more questions.
> 
> Unfortunately the BB tool my friend loaned me didn't work. It looks like the spline pattern is good, but it would not fit over the spindle so could not engage the splines. I'll go to a bike shop with the frame+crank in tow to get the right tool. I did note that the Shimano part number stamped onto this tool does not match the part number on the Shimano technical document for this crank. I was hoping it was just an older p/n superseded by the other one,but no luck on that.
> 
> ...


you have to take the crank arm off to remove the bottom bracket. I'd use a crank extractor, but you could probably use the self extraction cap from the other side, if you have a pin spanner to take it out and install it on the side that is still on. 

go here

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120


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## AJL (Jul 9, 2009)

What tools will you need, if you're like me - what ever ones you don't already have :mad2:


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

Camilo said:


> Do I need to remove the non-drive arm to transfer this bottom bracket to a new frame?


Yes. You need to use the BB tool on the non-drive side cup. It's not possible to use the tool with the crank arm in place.



Camilo said:


> If so, how to get it off. I removed the bolt that attaches the non-drive crank arm to the spindle, and tried to remove the arm, but it didn't budge.
> 
> Is it necessary to remove it?
> 
> Should it come right off - and therefore this one is a problem?


The arm should nto be removable without a crank puller, or with the self-extracating bolt. If one side had the self-extractor, the other side should. If it does not, install the one that you have on the non-drive side. You'll need a tool to remove and install the extractor.



Camilo said:


> Do you tap it prudently with a mallot to work it off?
> 
> Do you beat the crap out of it with a mallot? (joking).


Using a mallot is a bad idea.



Camilo said:


> Do I need a crank extractor. Note - the other side was self extracting, but this side, apparently, is not.


You can use one, but the self extracting bolt swap is a quicker and cheaper solution. Also, I'm not sure how well Octalink BBs like extractors, the tools were designed around square taper BBs.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

Thanks guys. the non-drive arm didn't have the ring (self extractor). I'll try to remove it from the drive side and use it. I was actually thinking of that as a solution.


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## PeanutButterBreath (Dec 4, 2005)

laffeaux said:


> Also, I'm not sure how well Octalink BBs like extractors, the tools were designed around square taper BBs.


There is an Octalink specific extractor as well as adapters for square taper extractors. Without the adapter, the narrower square taper extractor isn't be able to push against the spindle.


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