# 1972 Colnago Super Restoration



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Thought I'd document this process so you all can be jealous. It's my old racing bike I got back in 1986, and used to road race and do bi and triathlons on, then later I used it to ride very infrequently as I was hip on MTB (living in Colorado). Live now in Switzwrland and road riding rocks and MTB blows (very little single track).

It had a full Nuovo Record setup when I got it excepting the wheels/hubs that were Mavic. Got a set of Nuovo Tippo clinchers for $5 at a garage sale, and had a shimano sealed BB put in as after 10's of thousands of miles the Campa wore out. 

The cranks are replacements, as I am one of the guys whose snapped on the spider side (80 moles into the Boulder Sunday century).

Bars are not original but period correct, bent the otbers flipping over a dog, whose owner's insurance financed my lat year of college after $3000 in surgery for a busted right hand and wrist.

Plan is to strip paint, fix bar dent in top tube, paint and sticker in same schema, and trick out the components with more pantograph stuff (need seat post and cranks and brake arms, got them in a box downstairs off a 1976 Mexico).

Enough talk, pictures...
View attachment 241502

View attachment 241503

View attachment 241504

View attachment 241505
View attachment 241506

View attachment 241507

Top tube dent, low heat & tube spin didn't work.
View attachment 241508

View attachment 241509

Three coats, primer, base, blue.
View attachment 241510

View attachment 241511


----------



## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

For that dent you could try drilling a one inch hole to match the tube diameter thru a hardwood block and then cut the block in half and clamp it over the dent. That may move enough metal to lessen the dent and then just apply bondo and paint.


PS.....Looks like you were pretty hard on the bike.


----------



## fast ferd (Jan 30, 2009)

Us Colnago lubbers look forward to your updates. It can get costly, especially if you try to go with period-correct components from '72. Pantographed parts seemed in vogue slightly later, but those pieces will thin your wallet, as well.

Many aficionados will spot the use of the later year Campy parts. Some may scoff at you. Just tell them you aren't aiming to enter it in any contests; just giving a nice facelift to an old friend. ;-)

Keep the updates comin, my friend.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Well, I am 90 kilos and was @80 when I raced so the bike was well used.

Not too concerned with 100% period correct, just want all pantograph but will keep the original stuff anyhow.

Stem and chain ring and brake levers are original pantograph, the seat post from the Mexico matches the earlier Super, & the brakes and the cranks from the Mexico are just too beautiful not to mount up.

Also got a 123mm NOS BB and triple cranks Nuovo Record, I'm getting older and will keep the back end 5 speed (mayyyybe 6).

Thought I screwed up and stripped the paint without a sample for the mixer, then I remembered the fork. Whew!

View attachment 241525
View attachment 241526


----------



## The_real_maverick (Sep 25, 2011)

Sweet bike, should look great when your done


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Progress - 40 year old paint is tough! The stripper bottle said 1 treatment let soak for max 1 hour and lightly scrape off multiple layers. 2 treatments and 2 hours of tough xcraping and i've got a good start and will go mechanical to get the tough spots.

Very happy there is 0 rust!
View attachment 241550


Nooks and crannies.
View attachment 241551


Head tube is beautiful
View attachment 241552


A couple of these on a drill should do the trick.
View attachment 241553


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Great post.....I did a similar project last year with a 3Rensho...please continue to keep us updated....


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

daily progress (not much): got tired of scraping metal from the hard spots so I put another coat poison on the lugs and dropouts. should be soft by tomorrow night, ready for a sanding & a coat of primer by Wednesday.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Got most of the tricky spots done. Will put a rifle-cleaning brush on the drill tomorrow to get the top of the BB. I'm impressed by the quality & toughness of the paint job.

Tomorrow includes hard wood block attempt on the TT dent & filler, sanding, & couple of coats of primer.
View attachment 241715

View attachment 241716

View attachment 241718

View attachment 241719

View attachment 241720

View attachment 241721

View attachment 241722


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Well done......It looks great.....don't sweat the small areas unless there is an obvious thick spot of paint... Primer will cover and sanding between coats will smooth everything out...


----------



## Maybeck (Sep 30, 2004)

An old furniture re-finisher's trick. For the nooks and crannies you want to apply your paint stripper and let it cook, Then take a handful of sawdust or planer chips and rub it in to those areas (wear good gloves obviously). Just keep packing the sawdust in and rubbing hard. It will lift out all the paint in the hard to get areas. Use a brass brush to get any that's stuck. Works like a charm and is easy to clean up off the floor.


You can get a bag of planer chips or sawdust at any cabinet shop if you don't make your own.


----------



## Kenacycle (May 28, 2006)

I love seeing the progress of this project


----------



## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

This is fun to watch. looking forward to each step in the process. thanks for sharing.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Wood block dent removal failed, so I clamped the high spots and hit it with the heat gun.
View attachment 241780


A bit fuzzy here but that's a lot better.
View attachment 241781


Should look like new with some filler.
View attachment 241782


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Had a bunch of orange peel with the first coat of anti-rust primer, but wanted to get the bare metal covered so I did 2 more coats over it figuring out the new paint gun. Will sand it out and do another 3 coats of primer, sand, the go blue.
View attachment 241783


I started on th 76 Mexico since I've got the primer out. Stripping the paint is drastically easier- should be 1 application of poison- and it had no anti-rust red base coat like the 72 and had quite a few rust runners under the paint. Thankfully nothing to bad, but it's interesting to see the better quality from the earlier years.


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Nice....I don't worry too much about orange peel on primer...as you said, sand it......

You are inspiring me to start another project...I usually wait until winter but your work in progress is inspiring me


----------



## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

You may want to mask off a few places, especially the downtube brake bosses and headtube. I'm also a big fan of keeping the flats of the dropouts unpainted. If they're not chromed, you can put a coat of clear epoxy on the metal to stop any rusting..


----------



## Cinelli 82220 (Dec 2, 2010)

It's easier and better for your lungs to get a frame sandblasted instead of using strippers.
Painters who do hot rods of motorcycles can do a better and more thorough job in minutes. An autobody shop near me has done a couple of frames for $10 each. I drop it off, they do it in their spare time, and I pick it up the next day.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

onespeedbiker said:


> You may want to mask off a few places, especially the downtube brake bosses and headtube. I'm also a big fan of keeping the flats of the dropouts unpainted. If they're not chromed, you can put a coat of clear epoxy on the metal to stop any rusting..



Originally, everything was painted, I see overspray in the head tube and BB shell, and the dropouts were very thickly coated and the hardest part to strip excepting the top of the BB.

Good call on the SHIFTER bosses - I'll strip them and mask before applying more paint.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Cinelli 82220 said:


> It's easier and better for your lungs to get a frame sandblasted instead of using strippers.
> Painters who do hot rods of motorcycles can do a better and more thorough job in minutes. An autobody shop near me has done a couple of frames for $10 each. I drop it off, they do it in their spare time, and I pick it up the next day.


In Switzerland, noone does anything for $10. Much better to DIY.

The stripper is more of a brain cell killer than lungs, but it 's not good that's for sure (hence, I call it poison).

I hit the lugs on the Mexico with the wire wheel, and it worked really well, too. Any reason not to do the whole frame with a wire wheel?


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Stalled a bit with my el-cheapo paint gun throwing chunks and a get to know your frame wet sand session.

Ordered a new paint gun set, better quality and am waiting on delivery.

In the meantime, I used some filler on the dent and this should be barely perceptable when finished.

Got 10 days away on vacation in Sud Tirol so will be stalled again. Planning on riding the Stelvio.

View attachment 242200


----------



## zmudshark (Jan 28, 2007)

Nice project and great pictures.

I would be more inclined to use a silver filler, rather than a bondo type. Like this:
SILVER BRAZING WIRE "BRAZAGE"

Also, there are metal frame rolling blocks that work much better than wood, available here, in the States: BicycleTool.com - Bicycle Tools

In any case, great project, looking forward to seeing it progress.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Back from the dead - new baby and the ensuing sleepless nights put a hold on the project until now.

Got the frame sprayed in metallic blue - same color as original but sparkely.

View attachment 264247


The fork I let be to confirm color match - pretty friggin' close.

View attachment 264248


Very unimpressed from the decals from cyclomondo - much too small (left set). The set from velociao are closer, but spacing on letters is too wide but with some effort can be corrected.

View attachment 264249


Plan now to do fork, apply decals in parallel, clear coat, then build.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Mmmmm, decals.

View attachment 264250


----------



## crossracer (Jun 21, 2004)

Wow, she is a beauty. THat paint job came out great. 


Keep it up, looks like a real labor of love. 
Bet it rides great.

Bill


----------



## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

Nicely done!


----------



## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

Awesome!

Love threads like this, keep it coming!


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Parts galore! Stem and brake levers are a bit beat up but original as is The front & rear deraileur and seat post.

Gonna run the Nuovo Record triple cranks with the NOS 124mm BB, and have a Rally deraileur which I plan to swap the cage onto the NR rear.

Cinelli track bars (the bike came with a set which got bent and traded out long ago).

The cable guides I pulled off a Notter that had never been ridden ane have 0 corrosion, unlike the originals I had to cut off they were so rusted.

Headset came off a Mondia Super, which got my old one (twisted the cups 1/2 way in opposite directions cures pitting!).

View attachment 264450


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Ahhh, forget the Super Record 36 hole high flange with Mavic 'Special Service des Courses' tubulars.

7-speed cassette will give me 21 gears in all.

View attachment 264451


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Old man's savior. Seems like the bottom bracket spindle is too wide?

View attachment 264456


View attachment 264455


----------



## SJX426 (Oct 6, 2008)

Interesting effort. Just got going on a Trek 610 from 1984, last of the silver soldered frames from Wisconsin. I have rust so have been using a wire wheel to clean up. Planning on soaking in Oxalic bath to get rid of the rest.
I also have a 84 Superissimo with marginal paint but decided to leave it original. If it had looked like yours, I would have restored it too. Good info on the decals. Did you measure the originals to know how far off the replacements were?


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

*To Clear Coat or Not?*

Well, I'm ready to put the last coat of clear over everything, and am wondering if I should do the fork crown, which as you can see in the before and after pictures has had it's issues with the big R.

I'm using automotive 2-Component clear coat (urethane?), which is pure poison to spray, but hardens like a diamond and shines really nice.

Should I coat the crown to prevent rust?

View attachment 265742


View attachment 265743


View attachment 265744


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

And FYI, the 124 Camapgnolo bottom bracket is the wrong one for this model - seems I need a 117 or 118 mm spindle for that.

I picked up a O.M.A.S. Ti 117 mm BB which I'll use until 1. it snaps, or 2. I locate the proper BB from Campagnolo (bye bye savings).


----------



## Squenchy (Jul 5, 2012)

american psycho said:


> Should I coat the crown to prevent rust?


The clear won't adhere well to the chrome and will lift off in no time. 

Is having it re-chromed an option for you? I had the fork of my 80's Super chromed locally last fall for $75, and the quality is infinitely better than anything done in Italy back in the day.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Squenchy said:


> Is having it re-chromed an option for you?


The old forks were chromed before the legs were attached - so it's not a real option for now as I don't fancy removing the fork legs or chroming top-down and having to chase the threads. Plus, I don't know where in Switzerland to get it done, and if I found a place it's surely cost a fortune.

I'm gonna try the clear coat and (2 Component, Urethane, I think), and if it doesn't hold up I'll do the rechrome in a couple of years - right now I just want to get his project done and ride it!


----------



## Squenchy (Jul 5, 2012)

american psycho said:


> The old forks were chromed before the legs were attached - so it's not a real option for now as I don't fancy removing the fork legs or chroming top-down and having to chase the threads. Plus, I don't know where in Switzerland to get it done, and if I found a place it's surely cost a fortune.
> 
> I'm gonna try the clear coat and (2 Component, Urethane, I think), and if it doesn't hold up I'll do the rechrome in a couple of years - right now I just want to get his project done and ride it!


Understandable - no one wants a project like this to drag on forever! Hopefully you can get the paint to stick.

However, just fyi, the fork crown was almost certainly not chromed before the legs were brazed on, as the heat required for the brazing process would damage/discolor the chrome. More likely, the entire piece was plated, and then the legs were roughed up and painted to match the rest of the bike. The process might well be too cost prohibitive in Switzerland, but here in the states it's a simple and relatively cheap matter to remove the paint and old chrome and re-plate it. 

Regardless, you've done a great job re-finishing your old Colnago.


----------



## Wibb (Mar 1, 2010)

Just to say great read.  Keep the piccies coming.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Well the fork is done - turned out fan-frikkin-tastic, considering what I started with.

View attachment 266283


The frame had some running from the clear coat - inadequate ventilation caused my ghetto-fab paint booth to fog up, and I sprayed too much in too many places - so I let it dry, sanded out the drips, improved ventilation (home fan in upper left, ducted to outside)

View attachment 266281


and hit it again - should be dry in time to start the build tomorrow night.

View attachment 266282


----------



## FujiTedII (Oct 18, 2012)

Nice paint !


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Build close to done - waiting on black hoods and need a headset washer, and leather to clip straps - but this will be ridden with shimano clipless.

View attachment 266943

View attachment 266944

View attachment 266945


----------



## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

american psycho said:


> Build close to done - waiting on black hoods and need a headset washer, and leather to clip straps - but this will be ridden with shimano clipless.


It's your bike but I really think that gum hoods would be the way to go.


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Of course gum hoods would be originsl look, but I must listen to Rule 8

View attachment 267036


Gotta find some all black sew-ups!


----------



## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

Rules are meant to be broken. Besides #8 pertains to bar tape, never saw nuthin' 'bout the hoods.


----------



## sigurrosss (Oct 21, 2012)

Very nice. I'm impressed with the paint job. Where did you get the new decals?


----------



## american psycho (Jul 21, 2005)

Decals are best from velociao.com

Tried cyclomondo and other ebay sellers and their decals are of lesser quality.


----------



## bike rookie (Jul 22, 2012)

I'm JEALOUS !! Thank you for the pictures.


----------



## cda 455 (Aug 9, 2010)

american psycho said:


> Of course gum hoods would be originsl look, but I must listen to Rule 8
> 
> View attachment 267036
> 
> ...



Umm; Shipping to 83704  ?!!


----------



## irishstu (Aug 5, 2010)

Great job!


----------



## 1948D18 (Jun 1, 2012)

Really fun to see the transformation on this! Lovely bike.


----------



## r3xnvb (Jan 19, 2012)

Awesome job! Thanks for bringing it back to it's former glory!


----------



## Chombi (Jun 23, 2012)

All black sew ups and black lever hoods......noooooo!
Not on an older classic like that Colnago....
JMO

Chombi


----------



## Matthew Siow (Oct 25, 2012)

Wow makes me want to buy a used Colnago now and restore it


----------



## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

I'm with Chombi on this - Internet peer pressure is on!


----------



## fridaymatinee (Nov 12, 2012)

Man that bike is gorgeous.


----------



## Easyup (Feb 26, 2012)

Beautiful work and documentation, thanks.


----------



## duane.jones (Nov 16, 2012)

Beautiful job, sir. Love the clubs on the forks.


----------



## tijuanaderosa (Nov 28, 2012)

you got your hands full but its coming out excellent


----------

