# Who makes these hubs?



## tthome (May 12, 2008)

I just bought these for my first bike build. I was able to get these hubs for $85 to go with some brand new Cane Creek Aros 33 rims that cost me $40 for both rims. I'm sure once it's all said and done I'll have about $250 in these wheels if I chose to take them to my LBS to get built up. In any event, can one of you "wheel pros" help me out?


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

Looks like Chosen to me. Where did you get them?


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## tthome (May 12, 2008)

I don't like posting ebay links as they tend to die quickly, but I got them from this guy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Edge-SL-Hub-Set...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4153e8f34e

Basically he works at http://mercurybikes.com/ and said they were getting rid of these since the new ones will have Mercury etched on them. These have EDGE SL etched on the. Below are pictures of the actual hubs I have in hand. I would like some information from anyone who has them or knows of them. I'm simply hoping I made a good choice. I've read on RBR that Chosen hubs were used on many boutique wheels.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

Chosen 224

Chosen 80


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## SRS (Jul 14, 2010)

To me they look like bitex http://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/hub-b-RAF13-RAR13.htm
If you look at the flange on the non drive side, chosen does not match up.


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## tthome (May 12, 2008)

I'm shocked at the wealth of knowledge here at RBR. I would have never found bitex hubs, never heard of them. The bitex doe look identical. Any idea on the quality of these hubs in question? BTW, thanks to all that have replied.


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## krisdrum (Oct 29, 2007)

SRS said:


> To me they look like bitex http://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/hub-b-RAF13-RAR13.htm
> If you look at the flange on the non drive side, chosen does not match up.


Nice catch. never even heard of these guys.


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## SBH1973 (Nov 21, 2002)

I sell these hubs myself – and built my own wheelset with them. They are very nice. But I do not believe that they are made by Chosen or Bitex. They are manufactured by a third party factory which allows a variety of sellers to brand them as they wish. I know of at least four different "brands" – really just lasered on to this hubset – that are being sold on Ebay and elsewhere. I don't have a logo on mine, as I've found some folks would prefer them without one.


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## SRS (Jul 14, 2010)

I have these as well, branded moyon. But like you said, these are branded by different companies. I do think Bitex is the maker...... Or do you thik Bitex is also rebranding these?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

I have a ton of these hubs in 20/24 24/28 (pm me ) too. Taiwanese business is so unlike ours, its hard to backtrack stuff, hard to find real sources. For all I know, bitex might be part of chosen.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

If anyones interested, they're 291grams a set. Measured the rear at 212g. They use enduro bearings and 6 pawls, 48 poe (all though poe doesnt seem that important on the road). Can tear them down in about 10 seconds with 2 hex keys. They're also slotted for aero spokes.

No play, no weird machining slag. They look very professional and well made. The only thing that concerned me was the lack of grease on the pawls. They have what appears to be assembly or machining oil on them, but nothing substantial. They could use some NLGI 1 grease (any light pawl grease) or some heavy oil. 

Thats it from me about them. Ill have a _paid_ ad up soon.


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## StefanG (Nov 25, 2009)

TomH, i have a set of these, can you explain how to disassemble so that I can grease pawls?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Two 5mm hexes in the end caps, screw off the left cap counter clockwise. After that just pull the freehub and axle off by hand.

The seal is weird, its a double lip seal.. sort of. If you install it wrong it has a lot of friction and doesnt freewheel smoothly. When the seal is properly installed, it rotates on the freehub easily. It takes some wiggling, just make sure it sits in the groove with the back lip only. 

Let us know how dry your pawls look. Id definitely feel better with more grease in mine.


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## backinthesaddle (Nov 22, 2006)

I have a set on 30mm Nio hoops. They spin very well and seem to be nicely constructed. Mine have the 'Edge SL' logo on them. 

The pawls were pretty dry when I got them. Don't slap grease in them though. If you do, use a LIGHT coating. To much grease could cause the pawls to stick and not engage the ratchet. 

I dropped some Phil Tenacious Oil in and they are very quiet.


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## SBH1973 (Nov 21, 2002)

I just pulled a set apart - wow, that was easy – so that I could swap a campy and shimano free hub (customer wanted black campy, I only had red, but plenty of black shimano). They look very clean inside, and, while they perhaps could use a little more grease, were wet enough looking for me. Went back together very easily – seal goes back in place with no problem.


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## StefanG (Nov 25, 2009)

Thanks. End caps came off easy enough and pulled freehub out no problem. Rear looks good on both sides, plenty of grease. Front left looks good (plenty of grease), but not sure how to get pull axle out to check from front right. There isn't anything to "grab" like the freehub with the front. Some help?


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## SBH1973 (Nov 21, 2002)

...Stefan, I'm not sure, but if the rear is greased well enough, the front left, maybe the front right is as well??


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Anyone want to confirm these specs? 

Rear Hubs
Left flange dia. 38.00mm
Right flange dia. 49.00mm

Left flange to center. 38.00mm
Right flange to center. 16.00mm

Front Hubs
Left flange dia. 29.50mm
Right flange dia. 29.50mm

Left flange to center. 17mm
Right flange to center. 17mm


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## StefanG (Nov 25, 2009)

TomH said:


> Anyone want to confirm these specs?
> 
> Rear Hubs
> Left flange dia. 38.00mm
> ...


TomH, I'll answer your question, if you answer my previous question about getting the axel out of the front hub . The specs I received:


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## farva (Jun 24, 2005)

these BITEX hubs look great. I wish they had them with 32 hole drilling. They would be perfect for a pair of Kinlin 32 hole rims I have hanging in the garage

the BITEX RAF10 / RAF10 hubs kinda look like a copy of AM classic hubs


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Stefan, thanks. I pulled apart a front but I cant seem to pop the axle out completely, I believe its press fit into the bearing. Ill post it up if I figure it out. Im a bit reluctant to just hammer away at it right now.


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## alexb618 (Aug 24, 2006)

these look like 'open mould' type things that anyone can rebrand 

appear to be the same as circus monkey etc...


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

I believe theres a couple different internals, but they all look externally identical.. and yes, they'll laser on whatever you want on them


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## StefanG (Nov 25, 2009)

TomH said:


> Stefan, thanks. I pulled apart a front but I cant seem to pop the axle out completely, I believe its press fit into the bearing. Ill post it up if I figure it out. Im a bit reluctant to just hammer away at it right now.


I don't know that the axle needs to come out, just not sure how to get to the right side bearings. Once you unscrew the left side end cap, the left is easy to check/service, but how to get to the right side as its still in place? I assume it would require to pull the axle out?


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

I kinda think the right cap and axle might be one piece.. so the left cap actually screws into the right cap/axle assembly, but im guessing.


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## thatcap (Aug 12, 2010)

I have these hubs and they are very good quality. I am told they are made by Bitex but they do seem to have the same internals as chin huar(probably the biggest hub manufacturer out there) high end hubs. Either way, they are good. I had an issue with bearing play on the front hub once i built them up with some carbon hoops. Popped in some better quality hubs and they were fine.

To disassemble the front hub, take 2x5mm hexes and unscrew the end caps(only one will come off). On the inside of the axle is a 6mm. Use a 6mm to hold the axle so you can unscrew the other end.


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## thatcap (Aug 12, 2010)

I have these hubs and they are very good quality. I am told they are made by Bitex but they do seem to have the same internals as chin huar(probably the biggest hub manufacturer out there) high end hubs. Either way, they are good. I had an issue with bearing play on the front hub once i built them up with some carbon hoops. Popped in some better quality bearings and they were fine. I'm not convinced they are genuine Enduro bearings.

To disassemble the front hub, take 2x5mm hexes and unscrew the end caps(only one will come off). On the inside of the axle is a 6mm slot. Use a 6mm hex key to hold the axle so you can unscrew the other end.


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