# Terrible luck with MegaExo BB's



## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

I have an FSA SL-K compact crank/MegaExo bottom bracket on my '06 Specialized Roubaix. I continue to have terrible luck with the durability of these bottom brackets. At 5000 miles, the original BB was like turning a coffee grinder. I had it replaced with a new BB with Phil Wood bearings pressed into the cups by Competitive Cyclist. A very reputable wrench did the install. After about 3,000 miles/6 months I noticed significant lateral play in the crank and showed a different mechanic. He checked everything and all seemed to be installed/torqued correctly. We concluded that perhaps the bearings weren't pressed into the cups quite correctly, eventually leading to the play. Not wanting to be changing BB's every 6 months, I allowed myself to be talked into purchasing and having installed the ceramic version of the Mega Exo bottom bracket, hoping I'd get better durability. Initially it was fantastic. Here I am, another 3,000 miles/six months later, and back to bad lateral play. I've checked/re-torqued and all seems to be fine. Needless to say, I'm a bit disappointed by all this. Am I possibly missing something here? Suggestions?

I'm about ready to ditch the crank and get an Ultegra-SL. I've installed Shimano cranks (Dura-Ace 7800 and FC-700) on my other bikes, and I've never had problems like this. They're both doing fine.

Thanks.


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## roadboy (Apr 1, 2003)

working in a shop I have seen several Mego Exo cranks that have durability issues with the bearings. we even tried using shimano BB's with the FSA road cranks and while that worked better it was by no means a solution. I have never seen any other system with as many BB issues. I would seriously consider buying a new crank. I knw guys with 10K + miles on dura ace BB cups and with no issues. Same can be said about the sram. 
At least this has been the situation at our shop, we stopped selling FSA cranks about a year ago, we have zero confidence in the product and there are many other choices out there. Hope this helps


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

Can you define how much lateral play was observed? If lateral play developed after having new bearings pressed into the bottom bracket, that tells me the mechanic did not reinstall the blue-teflon o-ring on the non-drive side crank arm circled in red in the following image:







(link to image if red x: https://i26.tinypic.com/ff2uqa.jpg


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*thoughts...*

Lateral play could show up after only a few rides, if the bearings weren't properly seated in the cups or the left crankarm either loosned up or was never tightened properly. It's always wise to check for changes to the play after only a few rides and correct the adjustment if necessary.

The thin blue washers, whether installed or not, would not be the problem. The're really just seals that could be left out and the play could still be adjusted.

You didn't mention having the BB faced. That might help if cup alignment is a problem. There is also the chance that the BB threads are misaligned, but there is no cure for that problem. Chasing the threads does not change there alignment.

I'll assume that since you had Phil Wood bearings, the intrusion of water or dirt was not the cause of the bearing failure.

Changing to a DA crank is not going to magically fix this problem.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks ms6073... great call. The ceramic bearings/BB was purchased from an LBS as a unit, so bearings were pressed into the cups by FSA. That shouldn't be the cause of the problem, but may have been the problem with the previous bottom bracket.

However, I did just pull the crank off, and of course not only is O-ring 8 missing, but so is O-ring 6. Seems the absence of these would lead to the problem. What's funny is that when I took it into the shop 6 months ago with the problem, the head wrench pulled the arm off to check if the O-ring was there. I was standing there when he checked and it was there at the time. He knew it should be there, but maybe he had one of his 'helpers' do the install who wasn't aware of the requirement. The play definitely wasn't there initially after the install. I'll contact FSA and hopefully they'll give/sell me some replacement O-rings.

So to re-cap:

BB #1: Bearings definitely shot at 5000 miles

BB #2: Lateral play at ~ 3000 miles. Phil Wood bearings not pressed into new cups correctly? At least the non-drive side O-ring was present.

BB #3: Lateral play again at ~3000 miles. O-rings left off.

Lesson learned? From now on, aside from wheel truing, I'm doing all my own work.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

> if the bearings weren't properly seated in the cups or the left crankarm either loosned up or was never tightened properly.


I would hope FSA could press bearings into their own cups. For the ceramic bearing BB, the BB was purchased as a unit, not a third party upgrade. I checked the crankarm. It was definitely properly torqued.



> The thin blue washers, whether installed or not, would not be the problem. The're really just seals that could be left out and the play could still be adjusted.


Really? Looks to me like the way it fits together that would solve the problem.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Dr_John said:


> I would hope FSA could press bearings into their own cups. For the ceramic bearing BB, the BB was purchased as a unit, not a third party upgrade. I checked the crankarm. It was definitely properly torqued.
> 
> Really? Looks to me like the way it fits together that would solve the problem.


Also make sure you have the RIGHT FSA Ceramic BB. There are two. One to fit the K-Force Light cranks and one for other cranks.

I also think it's something possibly wrong with your frame. LIke the BB area.

Have it checked and also faced.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

Dr_John said:


> The play definitely wasn't there initially after the install. I'll contact FSA and hopefully they'll give/sell me some replacement O-rings.


It is possible that the mechanic that last removed/installed the crankset had problems achieving proper torque of crankbolt versus binding due to pre-load and opted to remove the o-rings or alternately the teflon o-ring material separated from the metal base washer and the mech simply discarded the o-ring(s) thinking they were not required. Be sure to use a torque wrench when re-installing the non-drive side crank arm. My failure to heed this advice has twice proven - last Friday morning before departing on a 6-hour drive to a road race in another part of the state - that over-torquing a hollow Mega Exo crank bolt leads to frustrating telephone calls to LBS (well both local and distant) to obtain a same day replacement. :blush2:

Also, look at the image below an note the splines on the spindle and how the splines are terminated inboard. Before you install the non-drive side crank arm, after pressing the crankset spindle through the bottom bracket, make sure that the end of the spindle splines is nearly visible otherwise, despite the threadlock on the crankbolt, you may end up experience the issue with the 'loosening' crank arm.


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## pennstater (Aug 20, 2007)

I also have an 06 Specialized Roubaix and had similar issues with the bottom bracket. Replaced the FSA with a Shimano R700 and Ultegra bottom bracket. Huge difference in how smooth the Shimano cranks feel. 

I am no master mechanic, but I did install the Shimano myself. It seems to me that the Shimano system with pinch bolts allows for slightly over/under frame width. I don't think the FSA system is tolerant of any over/under discrepancy.

I also had issues with warped chain rings. The Shimano rings have remained true.


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*more...*



Dr_John said:


> I would hope FSA could press bearings into their own cups. For the ceramic bearing BB, the BB was purchased as a unit, not a third party upgrade. I checked the crankarm. It was definitely properly torqued.
> 
> Really? Looks to me like the way it fits together that would solve the problem.


In additional to being sure that the BB faces are parallel and square to the threads, the BB shell width must not be too long or too short. If it was too short from excessive facing, then a spacer might be required. You should be able to adjust the play properly with or without the little blue washers. I took my crank off once and the blue material came off the metal backing.


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## walter2007 (Nov 22, 2007)

I have the 06 Roubaix comp (triple) with the FSA SLK crank and Megaexo BB and had the same problems you are having. I went to two different Specialized Shops and everything they tried, well the problem keep coming back. I finally sent the crank set back to FSA and they basically sent them back and did nothing but send new blue o-rings and a tube of locktite, oh and some fsa decals.

I have since replaced the cranks with Ultegra’s and a Dura-Ace BB and have not had any problems since. That was about 3 thousand miles ago and they are still smooth with no play.

Also Specialized themselves and my LBS would not help compensate me.


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## cocoboots (Apr 13, 2006)

Get a torque wrench and follow the instructions. Just because you took it to the specialized dealer doesn't mean that they followed the instructions or used a torque wrench. i have installed and used many mega exo cranks and never had a problem. i have a steel bolt that I got from FSA. I torque it down to the approx. spec, then I remove it and install the alum. bolt to the proper torque. never a problem.


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## walter2007 (Nov 22, 2007)

cocoboots said:


> Get a torque wrench and follow the instructions. Just because you took it to the specialized dealer doesn't mean that they followed the instructions or used a torque wrench. i have installed and used many mega exo cranks and never had a problem. i have a steel bolt that I got from FSA. I torque it down to the approx. spec, then I remove it and install the alum. bolt to the proper torque. never a problem.




Do you really think after months of problems (including sending my crank-set back to the manufacture) and more shop mechanics than I like taking my BB apart including myself (auto mechanic for 15 years) that a torque wrench wasn’t used and instructions weren’t followed. 

Don’t insult my intelligence.

FSA has had issues with some of their cranks period.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

walter2007 said:


> Do you really think after months of problems (including sending my crank-set back to the manufacture) and more shop mechanics than I like taking my BB apart including myself (auto mechanic for 15 years) that a torque wrench wasn’t used and instructions weren’t followed.
> 
> Don’t insult my intelligence.
> 
> FSA has had issues with some of their cranks period.


And that issues was NOT with the BB but a bolt coming loose. This was fixed. Any decent me3ch would have used loctite and the issues would have never come about.
Again that is what FSA said as well.

I always use a stell bolt to torque down, then use an aluminum one.

You would also be amazed on how many with your* itelligence* can make mistakes. 

I have not heard of any issues with FSA BBs. I sell a ton of these cranksets.

I have a set of Gossamer cranks where the NDS arm came loose. I put soem loctite and close to 2 yrs it has neve came loose again.

Now thier ISIS ones had a few issues like 5 yrs ago!


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## walter2007 (Nov 22, 2007)

DIRT BOY said:


> And that issues was NOT with the BB but a bolt coming loose. This was fixed. Any decent me3ch would have used loctite and the issues would have never come about.
> Again that is what FSA said as well.
> 
> I always use a stell bolt to torque down, then use an aluminum one.
> ...



The issue here is not the left crank arm coming loose due to improper torque or lack of loctite. The issue here is lateral play developing due to the blue O-rings self-destruction. 

When the play returned in my crank/bb, the torque was still fine. The play was not in the splines where the left crank mates with the spindle. When the lateral play returned the blue o-rings were missing and I know for a fact they were properly installed previously. FSA even sent new dust caps for the MegaExo and that didn't fix it either.

At any rate were talking about a new bike at the time with a problem that no-one could fix (sorry you weren’t there to lend your expertise) including 2 dealers, Specialized themselves put the problem to FSA and FSA didn’t remedy the problem either. So rather than install new o-rings every 1000 miles I went with a new crankset and problem solved.

Go figure


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## Forrest Root (Dec 22, 2006)

walter2007 said:


> The issue here is not the left crank arm coming loose due to improper torque or lack of loctite. The issue here is lateral play developing due to the blue O-rings self-destruction.
> 
> When the play returned in my crank/bb, the torque was still fine. The play was not in the splines where the left crank mates with the spindle. When the lateral play returned the blue o-rings were missing and I know for a fact they were properly installed previously. FSA even sent new dust caps for the MegaExo and that didn't fix it either.
> 
> ...


Did anyone bother to check to see if the BB shell faces were properly faced?


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## walter2007 (Nov 22, 2007)

Forrest Root said:


> Did anyone bother to check to see if the BB shell faces were properly faced?



In my case,
Yes the BB shell was checked by both dealers and was said to be ok.

It was a weird problem, when new o-rings were installed everything was fine, but like I said in about 1000 miles, play started to occur again, and if left unattended by 3000 miles the play was significant just as the OP stated. 

I never got to the root of the problem with the FSA’s, but the new crankset has fixed the problem.

FSA also had trouble with the shifting from the small ring to the middle ring on the triple I had. They replaced it (middle ring) and it did shift better.


I really wanted to like the FSA’s


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks all for all the info.



> Also make sure you have the RIGHT FSA Ceramic BB.


Yes, it is the correct BB. It's the MegaExo 8000, which is what should be used SLK MegaExo, according to the FSA documentation.

I have a BMW, so I have plenty of torque wrenches.  Dismantled everything, reassembled everything with proper torque everywhere and the problem remains.



> i have a steel bolt that I got from FSA. I torque it down to the approx. spec, then I remove it and install the alum. bolt to the proper torque. never a problem


What bolt are you talking about in the figure, 9.1?



> Did anyone bother to check to see if the BB shell faces were properly faced?


 C-40 and DB mentioned this too. Coincidentally I did have the frame checked over carefully during the ceramic bearing BB install. I asked if the shell might need to be faced, and he said no. I understand what this is, but what would be the cause of this needing to be done?

Sounds like Walter2007 and pennstater have been down this exact road and arrived at the same solution that I came to. Since I could get a new UltegraSL crank essentially for free, I don't feel like putting as much effort into solving or dealing with the problem as Walter2007 did.

Should be interesting to see if the problem develops at 3000 miles with the Ultegra crank. Obviously I betting it won't.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Dr_John said:


> What bolt are you talking about in the figure, 9.1?


Yes.

Maybe that's why the SLK cranks are being blown out. I do know the FSA BB are very finicly when it comes to BB tolerance. Shimano does have less problems when it comes t this. You could try a Shimnao BB cups too if that helps or just switch to the Ultegra SL.

Like i said, I have sold a bunch of these with no problems. My Gossamer cranks are fine on the back-up bike. My main ride is still going strong with FSA K-Force ISIS cranks right now. I will be going to Campy RECORD UT soon to get with newer technology or FSA K-Force LIGHT.

Sorry for your troubles. Did you contact FSA? They have been great with me in the past.


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## Rubber Lizard (May 10, 2007)

I had an FSA outboard bottom bracket that had the driveside bearing work itself loose from the cup. As in the outer bearing race started spinning inside the cup. 
Never seen or heard of anything like it in many many years as a wrench. 
As others have said, make sure everything is faced correctly. I would install a new bottom bracket, instead of trying to save the old one. 
FSA in general makes subpar products, but there customer service is excellent. See what they have to say.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

Dr_John said:


> What bolt are you talking about in the figure, 9.1?


That seems to be what is implied but to the best of my knowledge, FSA does not currently offer the same bolt in CroMo for the Mega Exo crankset. I think he was confusing ISIS with MEga Exo as FSA does supply CroMo crankbolts in addition to the alloy bolts that come with the Ti ISIS bottom brackets for MTB and non Mega Exo road cranks.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

ms6073 said:


> That seems to be what is implied but to the best of my knowledge, FSA does not currently offer the same bolt in CroMo for the Mega Exo crankset. I think he was confusing ISIS with MEga Exo as FSA does supply CroMo crankbolts in addition to the alloy bolts that come with the Ti ISIS bottom brackets for MTB and non Mega Exo road cranks.


You could get a Cromo one any where.


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## Bob Ross (Apr 18, 2006)

Wow, _another_ post about problems with FSA cranksets/bottom brackets... Who'd of thunk it?

(says the guy who's had to replace his Cannondale-by-FSA crankset _twice_ in two years)


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## JimP (Dec 18, 2001)

The real issue is the design of the crankset. There is NO adjustment for differing widths of bottom bracket shells. If your BB shell is a little small, you will have play. If your BB shell is a little large, you will put too much pressure on the bearings. That blue o-ring is supposed to be the thing that squishes and takes up the slack when things are too loose but there is nothing that will make the BB shell smaller. The loctite issue is because the spline cutting on the shaft and crank arm is too sloppy. Again, poor design where FSA had to come up with a solution after the fact. I had both issues and FSA replaced everything but the chainrings. I sold the replaced set as "almost new" on eBay and hope the buyer has had better luck with it than I did.


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## Dr_John (Oct 11, 2005)

*Problem solved. *

I've never seen the Ultegra SL stuff in person. It's gorgeous.

Took a test ride. Perfect. No more 'grinding' noise when mashing as before, and it feels great. Again, thanks all for the comments.


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

JimP said:


> The real issue is the design of the crankset.


Agreed. I have an FSA Gossamer crankset, which is adjusted in the same way Shimano is. No problems at all and running great after 8Kish miles. Every FSA crank/BB problem I recall reading about here has either been with the SL-K style design, or the result of poor wrenching of one sort or another.


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## koch (Apr 20, 2008)

JimP said:


> The real issue is the design of the crankset. There is NO adjustment for differing widths of bottom bracket shells. If your BB shell is a little small, you will have play. If your BB shell is a little large, you will put too much pressure on the bearings. That blue o-ring is supposed to be the thing that squishes and takes up the slack when things are too loose but there is nothing that will make the BB shell smaller. The loctite issue is because the spline cutting on the shaft and crank arm is too sloppy. Again, poor design where FSA had to come up with a solution after the fact. I had both issues and FSA replaced everything but the chainrings. I sold the replaced set as "almost new" on eBay and hope the buyer has had better luck with it than I did.


So I guess it's just tough luck for that poor sucker who bought your subpar FSA crankset huh? Remind me of your eBay ID, so I know who to avoid when I'm looking for parts.  

Is there anyone that's honest anymore?


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## ws46060 (Jul 16, 2006)

*My MegaExo has failed, too*

I have a 2007 Roubaix Elite with the FSA megaexo, etc. The bottom bracket has failed for the 2nd time since I bought the bike new. All the work has been done by an experienced, authorized Specialized dealer. I'll be replacing the FSA stuff with something else.


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## BenR (Dec 14, 2001)

JimP said:


> The real issue is the design of the crankset. There is NO adjustment for differing widths of bottom bracket shells. If your BB shell is a little small, you will have play. If your BB shell is a little large, you will put too much pressure on the bearings. That blue o-ring is supposed to be the thing that squishes and takes up the slack when things are too loose but there is nothing that will make the BB shell smaller. The loctite issue is because the spline cutting on the shaft and crank arm is too sloppy. Again, poor design where FSA had to come up with a solution after the fact. I had both issues and FSA replaced everything but the chainrings. I sold the replaced set as "almost new" on eBay and hope the buyer has had better luck with it than I did.


Exactly. I have also seen a few FSA cranksets with less than stellar bearings, even with proper alignment (and no, I'm not talking about stiff seals). The Shimano preload and attachment design is a cut above the other offerings out there. I'm not sure if the others have had to work around Shimano patents, or if the manufacturing cost is higher, or if they are worried about being sued by someone who does not understand that the preload bolt will not hold their crankarm on, BUT anyone who knows how to adjust a threadless headset can install a set of Shimano cranks. 

I also think their cranks are simply better made - the bearings are well sealed and smooth, the chainrings run true, the finish is consistent, and the weights are pretty darn good for not being fancy carbon. This is even coming from a Campy guy. I know many people with Dura Ace cranks that have never needed adjustment and chainrings that still look good after a couple seasons of pro/1/2 use. The Shimano front end shifting response with the Campy trim capability is an ideal combination. Even the bottom end shimano 8 speed external bearing compact crank (yes, they make them!) on my touring/roubaix bike has been shifting perfectly through mud and snow since last August with no adjustments. It doesn't look like the rings are going to last as long as Dura Ace or Campy, but my highly scientific judgement is they seem to be on par with anything else I've used. Most parts assessments are based on personal preference and tiny sample sizes, but I have yet to meet anyone who is not A) a mechanical moron, or B) a superhuman track monster who has ever had a problem with the current Shimano cranks.


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

wow how funny i find this thread....i am the proud (lool) owner of a new FSA SL-k crankset and mega exo 8800 bottom bracket cup.... after about 3 or 4 hours of trying to install cranks andd finally realizing that the bearing plastic sheilds were previously switched around thus making my crankset install backwards... or chainrings on non drive side... anyways... i have a dura ace bottom bracket here.. but i wanted to keep everything fsa ... probably for sure just gonna save me the trouble.. and get rid of the fsa bottom bracket....


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

thedips said:


> wow how funny i find this thread....i am the proud (lool) owner of a new FSA SL-k crankset and mega exo 8800 bottom bracket cup.... after about 3 or 4 hours of trying to install cranks andd finally realizing that the bearing plastic sheilds were previously switched around thus making my crankset install backwards... or chainrings on non drive side... anyways... i have a dura ace bottom bracket here.. but i wanted to keep everything fsa ... probably for sure just gonna save me the trouble.. and get rid of the fsa bottom bracket....


Won't work... one of the sides, I forget which, has a different diameter.


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## itspat (Jun 3, 2002)

Well I think this thread has made my decision. I have a Soloist Carbon on order and just called the shop manager to inquire whether to use the FSA cranks and BB that come with the Cervelo or use the Dura Ace off my other bike. He said that the Dura Ace is just plain better.


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## thedips (Mar 26, 2007)

DrSmile said:


> Won't work... one of the sides, I forget which, has a different diameter.



youre right..just went down to the garage to fix it... the drive side has a very very slightly larger diameter... enough so that the NDS cup wont fit on the axle of the crankset from the wrong side.... and on the shimano 7800 cups both sides are the larger diameter... so there will be a little play on the cranks 

looks like ill try my luck with fsa 8800:aureola:


EDIT... does anyone have a cheap (i use the term very lightly) fix to REMOVING and PRESSING bottom bracket cup bearings..... i feel like a rubber mallet and the floor wont work on this one.... i really dont feel like buying a tool for like $100 .... i think i saw a post where you can make your own but cant seem to search for the thread.


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## DrSmile (Jul 22, 2006)

thedips said:


> youre right..just went down to the garage to fix it... the drive side has a very very slightly larger diameter... enough so that the NDS cup wont fit on the axle of the crankset from the wrong side.... and on the shimano 7800 cups both sides are the larger diameter... so there will be a little play on the cranks
> 
> .


Yeah I've been there done that sorry. Now I have about 3000 miles on my DA cranks and I haven't looked back.


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## IronClydeBob (May 4, 2013)

I have an '05 Roubaix triple and have had many trips back to my LBS to fix. Want to replace with Ultegra/DA BB and cranks. I would like to the swap myself - What where the specific components you used and is everything still working well?? Thanks for any and all advice!!


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## Buck Satan (Nov 21, 2005)

FSA cranks are straight-up garbage. I'm on my third (warrantied) and my Mega-Exo BB is trashed with the least miles of any BB I've had in 30 years. A few years ago FSA changed their warranty retroactively when all their stuff started failing in droves. Sure sign of a bad product and crap company. Back to Shimano for me.


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