# how many of you are running fenders with rear facing track ends?



## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

And how much of a hassle is it to get the rear wheel out? Post a pic!


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Henry Chinaski said:


> And how much of a hassle is it to get the rear wheel out? Post a pic!



I've done it in the past...I had to deflate the rear tire to get the wheel out...

it really wasn't a big deal...just remember if you change a flat to mount the wheel prior to inflating..

You could also leave a big gap between the fender and tire but I preferred to have the fender follow the contour of the tire


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

deleted post


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## Hollywood (Jan 16, 2003)

Dave Hickey said:


> I've done it in the past...I had to deflate the rear tire to get the wheel out...
> 
> it really wasn't a big deal...just remember if you change a flat to mount the wheel prior to inflating..
> 
> You could also leave a big gap between the fender and tire but I preferred to have the fender follow the contour of the tire


+1

Surly dropouts and fender is right on the tire (not literally...)

gotta deflate to remove.


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## FlynG (Aug 23, 2006)

Henry Chinaski said:


> And how much of a hassle is it to get the rear wheel out? Post a pic!


I measured what it would take to pull the wheel out with the tire inflated and left just enough extra on the brace. I just loosen the clamp and slide it to the end and remove the wheel.
View attachment 186842


Flyn G


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

FlynG said:


> I measured what it would take to pull the wheel out with the tire inflated and left just enough extra on the brace. I just loosen the clamp and slide it to the end and remove the wheel.
> View attachment 186842
> 
> 
> Flyn G


Can we see the rest of the bike please?


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## FlynG (Aug 23, 2006)

A from Il said:


> Can we see the rest of the bike please?


My Mercian FG, here you go.
Flyn G


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## Henry Chinaski (Feb 3, 2004)

FlynG said:


> I measured what it would take to pull the wheel out with the tire inflated and left just enough extra on the brace. I just loosen the clamp and slide it to the end and remove the wheel.
> 
> Flyn G


Nice! :thumbsup:


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## 11.4 (Mar 2, 2008)

This is a problem with SKS fenders -- they don't have long-enough struts to loosen the rear fender without taking it completely apart. You can use Raceblades instead, which are a bit klutzy but solve the problem in the rear. Or, since SKS fenders are really pretty nice and durable, just get some of the Honjo struts and the little clamps that attach the struts to the frame eyelets or P-clamps (http://www.jitensha.com/eng/fndrs_e.html). Use the SKS hardware with them to mount the fender to the struts. These work really well and give more adjustment than one gets with the SKS hardware. Plus they are more durable. Strongly recommended.


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## StillKeen (Oct 4, 2005)

My Cotic RoadRat has SKS fenders on it and rear facing dropouts. It is a pain, esp as I run the bike geared and don't even get any advantage from having rear facing drop outs.

Still, since I've started riding bikes with guards in winter, I wouldnt go back to not having them ... they work so well.

Def use tires that are very puncture proof (specialized 28mm armadiolo's on my bike).


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## FatTireFred (Jan 31, 2005)

perhaps someone can design/make a rear fender w/ the back 1/3 made of a flexible material, i.e. a really long rubber mudflap (molded to the shape and contour of the fender)? perhaps... would require repositioning of the rear strut, but that seems simple enough, no? how about cutting the back 1/3 off a rear fender, and replacing that piece w/ a strip from a big old wire bead tire? functional- probably. ugly- definitely


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

*If you don't mind patching...*

...and think you can find the hole, there's no need to take the wheel out. Unseat one tire bead and pull out about 180 degrees worth of tube at a time to look for the hole and patch it. If you know where the hole is, you need to pull out only 4 inches or so of tube. This in-the-frame flat repair is the time-honored way to fix rear flats on coaster-braked, fendered and chain-cased Holland bikes, which release their rear wheel only after 30 minutes of hard work involving at least 5 tools, a sheet-metal cut or two on your hand and lots of cursing.  

Happy New Year, everyone!


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

^^^ That was the only practical way to fix flats on my bike......but that was over 40 years ago.


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## oldfixguy (Nov 15, 2009)

I attach the rear fender to the seatstays with c-clips and wing nuts instead of the normal (included) hex nuts. That said, I agree that removing the air from the tire should do the trick. I have indeed cursed after repairing a flat and then realizing I need to deflate the tire again to get it back under the fender. But, pump it up before tightening down the nuts.


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## majura (Apr 21, 2007)

I have SKS clip mounts (like what they specify for the front fender in the event of an object getting stuck between fender and wheel) for the struts. Simply un-clip and clip back in when done.


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## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

I chopped the rear fender at the brake bridge and then used a Raceblade for the rest. It wasn't pretty but it worked.


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## waldo425 (Sep 22, 2008)

Yup, I have fenders on mine. Yup, it's a pain in the ass to get the wheel off. Fortunately Ive only had to do it once since putting the fenders on.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*yes*

I just set the fender up far enough from the tire to allow the tire to clear. Before that, when I had it set up to look perfect, concentric with the tire, I had to remove the screws holding the stuts to the frame to remove the wheel.


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## zriggle (Apr 16, 2008)

I have a Fantom Cross Uno with Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. The rubber mud flap makes it possible to remove the rear tire fully inflated. It takes a bit of a tug, but it comes out regardless.


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## Crack Monkey (Apr 19, 2007)

Like others, with the tire deflated, the rear wheel has enough room for removal on my San Jose. I'm using the largest size SKS fender and 700x32 Conti TopContacts.


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