# Advice Installing Campy Bottom Bracket



## Gibralter00 (Jan 22, 2004)

Anyone have any experience in installing campy BBs? i had to order a new one after i committed an amateur mechanics mistake of not making sure my old campy BB was flush when i reinstalled it after cleaning out the muck out of my BB shell, which by the way doesn't have a drain whole like Campy suggests. My frame is steel and the threads on the BB shell are italian if that helps anyone in responding. I have all the necessary tools (Tapping and facings tools, etc.) at my disposal, just don't have anyone around my territory that i can trust to do the work. i might as well learn to do it myself while i have the opportunity, but i am not about to stuff another Campy BB in the trash after installing it wrong again. thanks for the input, if you have any.
David


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## C50 (Feb 8, 2004)

*Installation*

It's the same as any other BB -- face the shell, chase the threads with the proper tools. Only face the shell to the point that it is "square" -- no paint, etc. and a smooth uniform surface for the fixed cup/locknut to sit on.

Clean the inside of the shell with solvent or alcohol -- be careful to use something that won't damage the paint. Clean the BB parts well also.

If the BB shell is titanium or aluminium, use ti prep or anti-seize compound, or use a thread locking compound such as blue locktite. install the fixed (drive-side) cup first and tighten securely. On Italian thread, it will try to loosen as you pedal, so torque it well. Use the proper tool!!!!

Install the sealed BB unit, intall the adjustable cup, tighten properly, and install lockring and tighten.

If older non-sealed unit, adjust the adjustable cup so it is just a little too tight, then tighten the lockring. It should loosen just enough that the axle spins freely with no play.

In either case, hold the adjustable cup with the proper tool while tightening the lockring so it doesn't move.

Best thing is to use a torque wriench and tighten to the mfg. spec. If you can't do this, just consider the materials you are using -- the cups are usually aluminium, so be careful.

Squeaks from tis area??? make sure the cranks are installed properly (square taper is installed clean and dry, both cranks and axle, with thread locking compound on the bolts; splined are usually lightly greased). Try using a couple of turns of plumber's teflon sealing tape on the cups when installing (obviously, you can't use thread locker too) -- just be careful with Italian threading, as the fixed cup may try to loosen as you pedal.

Good luck !!!!!


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## T-shirt (Aug 15, 2004)

*Thanks*

*"On Italian thread, it will try to loosen as you pedal, so torque it well."*

*C50,

Thank you, over a year later your post answers a question for me. This is exactly what happened as I was riding yesterday. The bottom bracket unscrewed about 2 1/2 turns before I realized it. Time to get some locktight.

Thanks,
Tsirt*


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## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*not with campy...*

Don't know what BB you're talking about. Higher level (now including Centaur) campy BBs have no lockrings. All you do is screw in the drive side cup (whihc has the bearing and spindle attached to it) and torque to 50NM, then install the left side cup and tighten to 50NM. The only tool required is the campy cassette lockring/ BB tool.

The instructions come with the BB.


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