# Grease for Campag Hubs



## tka (Jun 11, 2014)

I know it carries the risk of starting a war, but I'm going to ask anyways. What are you using for grease in your Campag hubs?

My supply of actual Campag grease ran out too far back to remember and the Pedros SynGrease that I had been using is now gone. The "Whisper White" grease I got from Branford has turned into a gooey sticky mess unsuitable for any use except to gum thing up, and I just can't bring myself to use the Shimano Dura-Ace Special Grease in a Campag hub. I have plenty of other greases but none are a lithium soap (they are poly-urea) like Campag recommends. Since I have to buy some new grease I figure it's chance to find something better. So what is everyone using?


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

tka said:


> I know it carries the risk of starting a war, but I'm going to ask anyways. What are you using for grease in your Campag hubs?
> 
> My supply of actual Campag grease ran out too far back to remember and the Pedros SynGrease that I had been using is now gone. The "Whisper White" grease I got from Branford has turned into a gooey sticky mess unsuitable for any use except to gum thing up, and I just can't bring myself to use the Shimano Dura-Ace Special Grease in a Campag hub. I have plenty of other greases but none are a lithium soap (they are poly-urea) like Campag recommends. Since I have to buy some new grease I figure it's chance to find something better. So what is everyone using?


I use what I have on the shelf. They are steel balls rolling on steel races, nothing more.


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## hfc (Jan 24, 2003)

I use Phil Wood. Can't say really why other than its a pretty color and I like the smell.


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## gfk_velo (Jun 17, 2013)

If you particularly want the Campagnolo grease that is used OE and used to carry the Campagnolo product code LB-100, it's a Kluber product, Kluber Topas Isoflex NB52. 

Campagnolo used to print the identity of the material on the tube.

Any high quality synthetic grease should be fine - it's generally better to use the material specified by the manufacturer, though, as they should have tested for interaction with, say, the ball retainer material or in this case, if you have high-end Campagnolo wheels, the composite of the hub barrels etc.

The critical thing is to make sure everything is clean, *including the grease* before reassembly! The number of times we see mechanics digging into a pot of grease with gritty fingers & wondering why the re-assembled bearing is not as smooth as it should be is legion ...


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## tka (Jun 11, 2014)

Thanks Graeme. I remembered that the Campagnolo grease was an Isoflex something or other but having the full name helps a bunch. 

Turns out it is used on Ski-Doo and Bombardier ATVs & snowmobiles, and a riding buddy is a mechanic at the local Ski-Doo dealer. Already talked to him and he knows exactly what it was. He's going to pickup a tube at his price for me. And probably for himself since he has a couple of a Campag bikes too.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

I generally use a marine grease (for hubs), I prefer the mobile lithium complex stuff for no particular reason, but I have a long list of other grease I would use. I try to stick with stuff that is rated for below zero temps since I ride year round. I try to avoid full synthetics as they have a tendency to separate and I don't need oil leaking out onto the carpet given that I store bikes indoors.

If I was only riding on sunny summer days, I'd probably find something rated a no. 1.5 instead of the standard 2 (NLGI#), but even then, less is more if you aren't trying to create a barrier to water (there are formulas out there regarding how much grease is appropriate for a given volume/bearing-size; info on manufacturer webpages such as Timken and SKF).

If you don't need a lot of grease, just stick with whatever bike brand. You aren't saving by buying a larger can if you'll only ever use a tube.



gfk_velo said:


> it's a Kluber product, Kluber Topas Isoflex NB52.


Thanks! I love knowing that sort of info when available.


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## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

I can highly recommend Loctite Super Lube. 

It's quite hard to get hold of here in the UK but should be very easy to source if based in the U.S.

Even Cliff Royce of (Royce Hubs) recommends it for use with his hubs.....

so it must be good


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## bigbill (Feb 15, 2005)

White lithium grease. 

Lucas Oil 8 oz. White Lithium Grease-10533 - The Home Depot


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

Lately I've used the bright green Shimano Dura-Ace grease and am quite happy with it. Just get over it ;-)


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## tom_h (May 6, 2008)

*Kluber NB52*

re the "Kluber Topas Isoflex NB52" grease, its data sheet states its thickener is a "barium complex soap".

According to this chart,
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/882/mixing-greases ,
barium thickener is the least compatible with any of the other 9 common thickeners.
._"... two greases were first tested separately and then blended at three different ratios. ... worked penetration test was used on the greases after being blended at room temperature and again after storage at 250°F ... most common effect was substantial softening, ... barium grease blends looked like grease on the bottom and oil on the top, which may indicate that the second grease thickener was liquefying"_​
Polyurea base-oil grease was called out for some other incompatibility issues -- this is same type as Park Tool "PolyLube 1000"

However, any component on a bike is under much less load, lower rpm, and milder temperatures (just ambient temp), than any industrial or motorized application -- so probably doesn't make much difference.

Even so, why chance mixing greases on moving or rotating parts?


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## Bee-an-key (May 5, 2007)

Using a Shimano grease on a Campy part will result in a new world order, your wheels will only spin one way, your bottom bracket will only turn from 12 oclock to 6 oclock, your headset will only turn left. Big problems. Use Sram and your bike will only roll backwards.


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