# Aaarrrgghhh, who greased my threads?!?



## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

I was torquing down the seat bolt on my Bontrager seat mast to the specified 16Nm (141 in pounds) listed right on the rail holder and SNAP! broke the bolt right off prior to the torque wrench breaking over. Slammed and wrench into the frame when the bolt broke and took out a nice big chunk of paint and nicked the carbon a little. I picked up the broken parts and saw the broken bolt and sleeve were covered in white grease! No wonder the bolt broke, torque specifications are pretty much useless when the threads are greased, according to my woodcraft pocket guide greasing the threads will decrease the torque setting you need to use by 35-45%! I've been cranking this thing down 63 in pounds more than was specified.

My question to you guys, would this be how the bike came from Trek or was this the assembling mechanics doing? Frankly I don't even know whether or not I just screwed up the frame because of it. It taps out ok with a quarter and there don't appear to be any cracks.

Here's a few pics of the damage:



























What would you guys do, if anything?


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

The bolt threads should be greased! And 16Nm is within the range for the saddle rail bolt for this mast.

I am assuming you are using a click type wrench from your description. I dont know your situation, but to me, 16Nm is not a tremendous amount of torque that would have been so explosive a release that it would have caused you to loose the wrench into the frame. Sounds to me like it was much more, which points to a miscalibrated wrench, (assuming it was properly set).

As for the frame, it is a significant ding. I would get it checked at your LTD, and if good, lightly sand it in that immediate area, clean it out and rebuild the clear coat. Clear/glossy nail polish works wonders and if done carefully is hardly noticeable.


EDIT: You can get a replacement bolt very easily, no issues there. The rest of the assembly should be fine.
As for the ding, on second thought, *paint it green*, you have a built in clover-leaf! And a story to tell anyone who asks about it.

good luck
zac


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

zac said:


> The bolt threads should be greased! And 16Nm is within the range for the saddle rail bolt for this mast.
> 
> I am assuming you are using a click type wrench from your description. I dont know your situation, but to me, 16Nm is not a tremendous amount of torque that would have been so explosive a release that it would have caused you to loose the wrench into the frame. Sounds to me like it was much more, which points to a miscalibrated wrench, (assuming it was properly set).
> 
> ...


Ok, you just made me laugh, I needed that  

Looking around, I've found that yes, the bolt should be greased so I guess that wasn't the issue. I tested the wrench after the impact, 12#'s of weight on a wire 12 inches out on the beam with the wrench set to 144" #'s breaks right off, no problem. Since the wrench tests out and the grease is correct and I'm assuming the torque specs are right, I guess I was just lucky and got a bad bolt.

As far as when the bolt went, well, I guess I just wasn't expecting it and bam, it happened. To tell you the truth I'm not even sure which part of the wrench went into the frame, but it snapped into my knuckles pretty bad as well.

I'll be headed to the dealer in the morning to have it looked at.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Ok, sounds like a bad bolt. It happens. Sorry to hear about it.

While it doesn't sound like it from your post, I will go out on a limb and ask, do you know if the bolt had been loosened and tightened repeatedly? This repeated re-torquing can weaken a bolt.

Get the ding checked out. It looks like the carbon was tweaked a bit too. But this is in the area of the lug, so the carbon in thicker there, and this area is pretty tough to begin with.

FWIW: just look at the rear brake cable exit hole/ferrule. That ferrule is anchored on the seat cluster lug and not the top tube, and it appears to be beyond the area of your ding.

again good luck
zac


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

The bolt has been torqued maybe 5-6 times since new in January while I was trying to get it dialed in. Nothing I would consider excessive. 

That does make me feel a bit better about it being in the lug though and not the tube, I suppose that helps a bit.

Do you think the dealer will be able to make a call on good / bad or will they have to wait for a Trek rep?


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

Yes, on the dealer; If concerning or not obvious to them, then they will get the Trek rep involved.


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

Here's an update. I took the bike to the shop I bought it from, they said the ding looked fine. They also gave me a new bolt out of a Bontrager clamp. Upon the advice of a local motorcycle painter I've begun filling in the chip with paint, intending to slowly build it up beyond the depth of the chip, then slowly sand it back down flush with the surface and polish it out.

Here is where I am now:

New bolt installed









Filling in the paint chip.


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## zac (Aug 5, 2005)

RacerOne, thanks for explaining the process, it'll help others in the same boat.

The repair looks good so far, you can barely see it. Once sanded and clear coated, you won't be able to detect at all. Be sure to post a pic when you are done.

Also there was a suggestion somewhere along the way to put a name sticker over it...it would hide it completely.

Of course, I am still going to hold out for the green three leaf clover, and I am not even Irish.

zac


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

Putting a sticker on it is my 'Oh dang, I screwed that up' option!


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

I suggested the green paint too.

My advice: ditch the Bontrager seatpost. Nothing decent has been made with the Bontrager name on it since Keith himself stopped making bikes.


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## tbb001 (Oct 1, 2007)

PlatyPius said:


> My advice: ditch the Bontrager seatpost. Nothing decent has been made with the Bontrager name on it since Keith himself stopped making bikes.


Which aftermarket seatpost would you recommend he use on his 2010 6-series Madone with integrated seatmast?


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

tbb001 said:


> Which aftermarket seatpost would you recommend he use on his 2010 6-series Madone with integrated seatmast?


Is it really? I never noticed. Geez...I'm getting old and neglectful.


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

How could you miss that? You must of been watching for me to stuff some BMX grips in my pockets instead.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

RacerOne said:


> How could you miss that? You must of been watching for me to stuff some BMX grips in my pockets instead.


Well, it IS a Trek....my eye just kinda passes right over it.


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## RacerOne (Aug 17, 2009)

Ouch..


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