# BB30 Pressfit Adaptor (loctite or epoxy)



## Biggard (Sep 29, 2005)

Hi,

I have a 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 that continues to make the clicking sound from the BB area. I have tried everything to silence the noise including replacement of the bearings twice. I know its the BB because we checked all of the usual suspects when a clicking or creaking is experienced (skewers, chainring bolts, seatpost clamp, saddle, pedal threads etc). From what I have read on this site and elsewhere this can occur when there is a tolerence issue with the BB30 shell and bearings. I have decided to try the press fit adaptor and return to using my old DA cranks. What I want to know is if I should use an epoxy to permanently stick in the insert or should I use loctite? Would that be okay for a lasting creak/click free instalation? I have no intention to use BB30 again on this frame.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

Biggard said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 that continues to make the clicking sound from the BB area. I have tried everything to silence the noise including replacement of the bearings twice. I know its the BB because we checked all of the usual suspects when a clicking or creaking is experienced (skewers, chainring bolts, seatpost clamp, saddle, pedal threads etc). From what I have read on this site and elsewhere this can occur when there is a tolerence issue with the BB30 shell and bearings. I have decided to try the press fit adaptor and return to using my old DA cranks. What I want to know is if I should use an epoxy to permanently stick in the insert or should I use loctite? Would that be okay for a lasting creak/click free instalation? I have no intention to use BB30 again on this frame.


Just out of curiosity before you go with the insert, have you tried Loctite 641 Retaining Compound to help eliminate the noise with the BB30 bearings? Loctite 641 is a must to avoid creaking for owners of BB-86 frames that are running Campy or FSA cranksets as those manufacturers use alloy BB86 press-fit bearing adapter cups instead of Delrin like Shimano and SRAM.


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## Biggard (Sep 29, 2005)

No, I never tried the loctite. Someone suggested it but for whatever reason I did not think that loctite(ing) a bearing to the frame was a good idea especially considering how quickly the BB30 bearing wear out. Also I was cautious that it would void the manufacturers waranty.


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## ms6073 (Jul 7, 2005)

When I got my TCR Advanced SL, I was going crazy trying to resolve the creaking issue from my SRM FSA K-Force crankset with the stupidly expensive ceramic BB-86 press-fit bearing adaptters. A web search returned a PDF file from Cannondale that recommended Loctite 609 for the installation of the threaded BSA adapter into the BB30 sheel but a review of the specs for 609 indicated it might be permanent so I opted for 641 instead. Last year a friend who rides the Cannondale Super Six and SuperX cross frame started having creaking/clicking issues with his SRM SI and I recommended the Loctite 641. Mind you this is not a permanent fix as I have remove the press-fit adapters and reapply 641 ~2-3 times a year and I think my friend does as well but every 4-5 months is preferable to creaking every second of every ride. Also, if things aren't already confusing enough, here is a link to a thread on BB30 adapters from another forum that also discusses the topic.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

Just get a KCNC BB30 adapter.











Detail
These bottom brackets from KCNC are designed to adapt BB30 bottom brackets for use with common 24 mm spindle, 68 mm shell-compatible cranksets such as Shimano's Hollowtech II series and FSA's Gossamer crankset. Two extra plastic bearing caps are included with each adapter.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

Biggard said:


> No, I never tried the loctite. Someone suggested it but for whatever reason I did not think that loctite(ing) a bearing to the frame was a good idea especially considering how quickly the BB30 bearing wear out. Also I was cautious that it would void the manufacturers waranty.


I'd say just keep riding.. but I don't blame you for wanting the conversion. 
Loctite bearing outter race to the shell can be helpful because little movements could wear the shell overtime, and probably the majority of the noise.
The spindle of the crank can also click with the inner race. 
So you can possibly elminate half the noise.. why don't you try it first. Couple of shops I have talked to says the bearing will press out just fine, just need to clean up the residue which can be done at home or more expensive for a shop to service. If you talk to any big specialized dealer they know about this as it is even specified in some of their BB30 crank installations.


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## reptilezs (Aug 21, 2007)

retaining compounds have high compressive strength but low shear. low shear strength means it is removable


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## -dustin (Jan 11, 2009)

Just to make sure, check the backside of your seat tube for very fine, hairline cracks. Can be caused by the seatpost being pushed too far down. Common error that may or may not be be warrantied.


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## Gearhead65 (Jan 23, 2010)

Same creak in my Roubaix. Silenced it for 2-3 months with Specialized recommended Loctite solution. StRted creaking again this week so will be disassembling. Did buy an Enduro BB30 tool.


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## blakcloud (Apr 13, 2006)

I am from the school of thought and keep what you have. Buy some Chris King bearings to pop in there, that will help with the longevity problem and then I would use loctite to keep the bearings in place. That should fix your problem with the least amount of money.


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