# More Comfortable Wheel



## bikerneil (Nov 3, 2007)

I am currently riding Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels. I am considering changing to a wheel that would make for a more "comfortable" ride. (Most of my miles are my 45 mile round trip commute to work, and I am getting older!)

I am wondering: in general, what wheel design attributes make a wheel feel more comfortable? I am not looking for specific recommendations on which wheel to purchase at this point. I am looking for direction on things like steel vs aluminum vs carbon, spoke type, etc. Is there a class of wheels specifically designed for this? (By the way, weight is a consideration, cost is not.)

I have already made a change from 23 to 25 to 28 mm tires and I love them. Running 28 mm tires at 90 psi has made a dramatic improvement in ride comfort (for my lower back). 

Thanks.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

I think the tire change difference will be bigger than changing wheels.

Your wheels have a 26mm front and 30mm rear rim. Maybe going to an ~18 mm low profile rim will give you a less harsh ride. You can try 14/17G spokes. I think a radial overload (bump) should span more spokes with 14/17G vs 14/15G.


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

bikerneil said:


> I have already made a change from 23 to 25 to 28 mm tires and I love them. Running 28 mm tires at 90 psi has made a dramatic improvement in ride comfort (for my lower back).


Depending on how much you weigh, you can get away with even less pressure.

I personally wouldn't remark wheels themselves as factors in comfort. I just want them stiff and working - light if life lets me have that as well.


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## [email protected] (Sep 12, 2008)

I don't have them myself but i've heard the spinergy wheels with PBO fiber spokes are supposed to provide a really comfortable ride. Check the reviews for Spinergy Xaero and Spinergy Stealth PBO... most people are raving about the comfortable ride.

The other thing for comfort i've heard is going to a wider rim like the HED Ardennes which i think is 23mm wide, the wider rim will change the tire profile and supposedly provide a more comfortable ride. Then again since you're running 28mm tires that change might not be that noticeable.


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

Wheels would be really really far down the list of things I'd look at to address lower back issues. Unless your current wheels are really horrible (which they aren't) I can't imagine any new wheels would make a difference between lower back pain or not.
A pro fit and some core work would be a lot cheaper and likely yield better results in my opinion.


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## deadleg (Jan 26, 2005)

I think a traditional 3 cross 32 or 36 spoke wheel with lower spoke tension is a plush ride. I also like the wider rim, Velocity A23 is nice. Low spoke count, high tension, deep rim wheels have a harsher ride.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

deadleg said:


> I think a traditional 3 cross 32 or 36 spoke wheel with lower spoke tension is a plush ride. I also like the wider rim, Velocity A23 is nice. Low spoke count, high tension, deep rim wheels have a harsher ride.


I would have to disagree with using a low tensioned wheel. It will not give a soft ride, and it will just cause problems later on by constantly going out of true.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

bikerneil said:


> (By the way, weight is a consideration, cost is not.)


Probably a shallow carbon tubular... or baring that, a shallow carbon clincher (Reynolds MV32), with a large number of light crossed spokes. Note that this is speculative, and based on the testimony of people who are more sensitive than me (or so they say). In truth there is very little vertical deflection in any wheel, so any difference in ride quality would need to come from a second order effect like vibration response and resonance. 

If you wish to use large tires there is no harm in using a wide rim... it may give better cornering response at low pressures. The Velocity A23 is a good choice.

I believe focusing on tires is your best bet. If you can deal with latex tubes, they will allow you to run pressures as low as you dare.


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## lml1x (Jan 2, 2003)

rruff said:


> I believe focusing on tires is your best bet. If you can deal with latex tubes, they will allow you to run pressures as low as you dare.


What are the downsides to latex tubes?


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

lml1x said:


> What are the downsides to latex tubes?


They cost more than butyl tubes. I don't know of any other downsides.


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## dadoflam (Jan 19, 2008)

Campy Neutron Ultra - designed by Campy for climbing and century rides (where a more comfortable/less harsh ride is preferred to reduce fatigue) - as compared to the Campy Shamal /Eurus/Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels which are same order of weight but designed by Campy to be stiffer and used as criterium/sprinter wheelsets
Would also suggest giving the Shimano DA 7850 CL24 wheels a look - lighter with same low profile rim / stainless steel spoke approach as the Neutron Ultra but slightly less spoke count - many say it is the most comfortable wheel they have tried.


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## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

lml1x said:


> What are the downsides to latex tubes?



They lose air much quicker than regular tubes. Not a down side to a 'roadie' who's pumping up before every ride anyway but to the guy who just wants to hop on his bike everyday to ride to work or whatever where performance isn't big consideraton I can see it being a bit of a downside.


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

lml1x said:


> What are the downsides to latex tubes?


Besides needing to pump them everyday (mine seem to lose ~25psi), and costing more, you really need to make sure they aren't stuck under the bead when you install them. Also, if you have any holes in your rim tape they will squeeze through easier than butyl.


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## ibexslc (Aug 27, 2007)

I would have said that tires would make more difference than wheels as well. But I've been extremely impressed with my Dura-Ace cabon-aluminum composite clinchers (7850 CL).

When I first rode them around the neighborhood the compliance over bumps was very noticeable, as if the tires were low pressured. The change, for me, was at least as big as going to larger tires. More impressive was the ride over larger bump/ripples on downhills where I don't think oversize tires would do much.

I rode a super century yesterday with 6 miles of dirt road and long stretches of rumble strips and they performed extremely well. Yet I can't feel any lateral flex at all on the climbs (Im 160lbs).

I've only run them with 23c tires so far, but the rims are a bit wider than average and would work great with 25 or 28s. 

So, in answer to your question I would say, yes comfy wheels are out there and I would give the DAs or something like them a look.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

Can you patch them or do you have to throw them out?


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## rruff (Feb 28, 2006)

valleycyclist said:


> Can you patch them or do you have to throw them out?


They patch really well with normal glue. If you get one you have to toss, then cut it up for patches, and it works even better than typical tube patches.


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## fa63 (Aug 16, 2007)

Try tubeless for a more comfortable ride. My tubeless compatible Campy Zonda wheels with Hutchinson Fusion 2 tubeless tires is the most comfortable setup I have experienced.


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## longhorn31 (Jan 6, 2005)

Consider 32 hole Mavic Open Pro's with double butted spokes. I agree with the other posters that tires make the most difference, but I *think* that wheels can make some difference....can't prove it though.


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## fishey72 (Feb 14, 2005)

Go tubuless. The ride quality is phenomenal.


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## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*more?*



bikerneil said:


> I am currently riding Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels. I am considering changing to a wheel that would make for a more "comfortable" ride. (Most of my miles are my 45 mile round trip commute to work, and I am getting older!)
> 
> I have already made a change from 23 to 25 to 28 mm tires and I love them. Running 28 mm tires at 90 psi has made a dramatic improvement in ride comfort (for my lower back).
> 
> Thanks.


If you are running 28 mm tires at 90 psi, I think the only thing that would help further is suspension, or maybe a better fitting or different type of bike (recumbent?). No way any wheel design change will make a difference.

Also, if your primary issue is lower back, you may want to raise your handlebars, check your extenstion (top tube + stem + handlebar length), consider using aerobars (can really relax on them), or do something to strengthen your back. Again, there's just no way wheels can make a difference to your back -- the padding in your shorts would make more of a difference.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

Install a suspension fork and seatpost on your road bike, and you'll be riding in style.


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

+1 on tubeless. You could try out the less expensive offering from Shimano with the Ultegra 6700 wheelset, if you want a slightly lighter pair of wheels then go for the Dura Ace 7850 SL Scandium alloy wheelset, both run your choice of tubeless or traditional clincher tire. But the tubeless will give you the comfortable ride you are looking for. I was told by someone who has ridden both the Shimano tubeless and the Fulcrum 2-Way fit that the Shimano's are smoother.


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## valleycyclist (Nov 1, 2009)

I recently built a 32 spoke wheelset with wide, low profile, Velocity Synergy rims (offset rear rim), White Industries H2/H3 hubs, and DT Swiss 14/15G Competition spokes. Here is the feedback I received from them. I still think 99% of the comfort factor comes from the tires, but the wheels may account for the 1% difference.

"A magic carpet ride! Smooth, stiff, stable. 25 mm tires at 80-85 PSI roll easily yet soak up the bumps. The wider profile feels absolutely stable in corners, sweeping turns, high speed descents. These wheels created exactly the ride characteristics I was looking for."


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## meat (Aug 10, 2006)

My most comfortable wheels are old MA40 rims laced with double butted spokes. They have gone from training wheels to my commute bike and the ride is like butter. At the age of 50 I love my fast wheels for the rides out with the young ones but not for the ride to and from work.


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## Bridgestone (Sep 6, 2007)

28 hole open pro,with tie spokes,Vred Fortenza tires with latex tubes, ah the good life!


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## neubilder (Apr 22, 2012)

bikerneil said:


> I am currently riding Fulcrum Racing 1 wheels. I am considering changing to a wheel that would make for a more "comfortable" ride. (Most of my miles are my 45 mile round trip commute to work, and I am getting older!)...... I am looking for direction on things like steel vs aluminum vs carbon, spoke type, etc. Is there a class of wheels specifically designed for this? (By the way, weight is a consideration, cost is not.)
> Thanks.


I hope my post to an old thread isn't offensive to anyone.

Bikerneil, have you tried riding a titanium frame? I used to ride an aluminum Klein, which had some great handling characteristics, but the body fatigue was brutal. After even 2 hrs riding my hands would go numb and my body felt like I'd been through the wringer. Then 7 or 8 years ago found a used Merlin Extralight. 10 years ago I almost gave up riding because of discomfort, now I regularly go for 50 - 80km rides, sometimes 140km, and I still feel great. The day I bought the bike, I test road it on a rough country road, the 23mm tires were pumped to 105 psi. I started riding and I thought, damn, how can I have a flat already!? But I didn't, it was simply that the frame felt so plush that the rough road felt like velvet. It really was remarkable. And the power transfer and responsiveness is exhilarating. Now I can't ride often enough - usually around 400km's/week. I now have a Ti touring bike (litespeed blueridge) and a fast bike (Merlin Extralight), my wheels are 32spoke Open Pro's and I use 25mm or 28mm tires, at 85 - 95psi, and riding is pure bliss. I'm 46 yrs old.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,


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