# Marking seat post after fitting



## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

Hi. New to this forum. I am also one of those newbies starting road biking after years away from any saddle. I am the proud owner of a new 2008 Opus Fidelio. I paid for a fitting at my LBS. The fitter put a piece of tape to mark my height. It has a carbon fibre seat post and I would like to somehow mark it more discretly. How do others do this?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BruceG1 said:


> Hi. New to this forum. I am also one of those newbies starting road biking after years away from any saddle. I am the proud owner of a new 2008 Opus Fidelio. I paid for a fitting at my LBS. The fitter put a piece of tape to mark my height. It has a carbon fibre seat post and I would like to somehow mark it more discretly. How do others do this?


There's a better (and invisible) way to accomplish the same. Measure from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle running the tape measure parallel with the seat tube and note that number. That's your saddle height, and it stays constant if you change bikes, posts or saddles. It does change some if you ever change pedals and/ shoes or cleats, but in that instance you'd have to recalculate saddle height with or without a mark on your post.

It's actually beneficial to take some key measurements in the event you need to rebuild some or all parts of your bike. This is especially true in your case because you paid for a fitting, so you'll want to retain it.


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## jrob1775 (Jan 21, 2010)

BruceG1 said:


> Hi. New to this forum. I am also one of those newbies starting road biking after years away from any saddle. I am the proud owner of a new 2008 Opus Fidelio. I paid for a fitting at my LBS. The fitter put a piece of tape to mark my height. It has a carbon fibre seat post and I would like to somehow mark it more discretly. How do others do this?



A good fitter should give you a print out of all the measurements of the bike. That way if you disassemble it, you know what the setup is. Also it becomes a point of reference when you get your next fit. When I do a fit, the customer walks away with a sheet which shows a record of the physical evaluation and another with dimensions of the bike setup. I keep those two documents on file electronically for the customer. How much did you pay for the fit?


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## jmlapoint (Sep 4, 2008)

I actually use a tiny drill to make a small dimple on the front of the post, level with the seat tube or clamp. I put a dot of white paint/marker in the dimple so it is visible. That way I can glance down and reassure myself the post hasen't slipped.
With an aluminum post like Thomson, I just make a small centerpunch mark in the same location and the shiny aluminum shows thru the black coating of the post and is easy to see.
Neither technique weakens the post.

John


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

I paid $250 for the advanced fit here
http://www.bicyclefitworks.com/serv02.htm


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## shockfinder (Apr 21, 2009)

I just use electrician's tape as mentioned and my seat bag covers it up.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Before you mark your set post, try to log a LOT of miles on it. I'm sure your fitter did a nice job, but it takes a lot of time to really dial things in.


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## fallzboater (Feb 16, 2003)

jmlapoint said:


> I actually use a tiny drill to make a small dimple on the front of the post, level with the seat tube or clamp. I put a dot of white paint/marker in the dimple so it is visible. That way I can glance down and reassure myself the post hasen't slipped.
> With an aluminum post like Thomson, I just make a small centerpunch mark in the same location and the shiny aluminum shows thru the black coating of the post and is easy to see.
> Neither technique weakens the post.


What happens if you change saddles? That almost always requires a change in post height.

The front of the post is under tension. If you must, ideally you would make your hole, dimple, scribe, etc. on the side of the post.

A wrap of black electrical tape is a good way to go.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

fallzboater said:


> What happens if you change saddles? That almost always requires a change in post height.


All the more reason to wait. It took me about 2 seasons and 3 saddles to find what works.


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

I am not in any rush to mark up the post. Just wondering. 
And how would I measure from the cranks to the top of the seat? I know millimeteres make all the difference and I can't imagine just eyeballing the top of the seat and eyeballing the center of the cranks. I would think this could lead to diferent measurements. I would like to set up m MTB seat now to match the road bike.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

BruceG1 said:


> I am not in any rush to mark up the post. Just wondering.
> And how would I measure from the cranks to the top of the seat? I know millimeteres make all the difference and I can't imagine just eyeballing the top of the seat and eyeballing the center of the cranks. I would think this could lead to diferent measurements. I would like to set up m MTB seat now to match the road bike.


You can measure it out without too much difficulty, but there's a little more to it than just the saddle height. Are you using the same shoes and cleat placement? Theoretically, perhaps raising the saddle puts the bars in the wrong place and your back hurts, etc.


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## tubeman (Feb 12, 2010)

touch up paint. measure to the saddle rails


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## Blue CheeseHead (Jul 14, 2008)

A Sharpie works good and is stealth. It can be wiped of with solvent when you need to adjust.


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## MarshallH1987 (Jun 17, 2009)

i use a silver sharpie to make a single dot.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BruceG1 said:


> I am not in any rush to mark up the post. Just wondering.
> And how would I measure from the cranks to the top of the seat? I know millimeteres make all the difference and I can't imagine just eyeballing the top of the seat and eyeballing the center of the cranks. I would think this could lead to diferent measurements. I would like to set up m MTB seat now to match the road bike.


Measuring saddle height is far from difficult. 

Using a metric straight edge or tape measure, measure from the center of the crank bolt (or cap) along the seat tube and post to top of saddle. Of course you need to view the measurement at top of saddle carefully, but do it 5 or 6 times and you'll know. The measurements won't be that different each time.

I think getting used to taking some measurement would be to your advantage, but alternatively you can do as jrob suggested: go back to your fitter and ask for any documented measurements. If s/he has none, ask them to do a saddle height measurment for you. It'll take them all of 8 minutes.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Measuring saddle height is far from difficult.
> 
> Using a metric straight edge or tape measure, measure from the center of the crank bolt (or cap) along the seat tube and post to top of saddle. Of course you need to view the measurement at top of saddle carefully, but do it 5 or 6 times and you'll know. The measurements won't be that different each time.
> 
> I think getting used to taking some measurement would be to your advantage, but alternatively you can do as jrob suggested: go back to your fitter and ask for any documented measurements. If s/he has none, ask them to do a saddle height measurment for you. It'll take them all of 8 minutes.


Not to cast aspersions on professional fittings, but if I paid $250 for a fitting and they didn't write anything down for me, I'd take my future business elsewhere. I know when done right, it's a time intensive process and folks should be paid for that time, but that's a significant chunk of cash. Personally, for $250, I think a bike fitting should come with a massage and a "happy ending", but that's just IMHO.


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## black_box (Jun 7, 2008)

jmlapoint said:


> I actually use a tiny drill to make a small dimple on the front of the post, level with the seat tube or clamp. I put a dot of white paint/marker in the dimple so it is visible. That way I can glance down and reassure myself the post hasen't slipped.
> With an aluminum post like Thomson, I just make a small centerpunch mark in the same location and the shiny aluminum shows thru the black coating of the post and is easy to see.
> Neither technique weakens the post.


both of those sound like stress risers to me. In the event you had to replace the post under warranty, that could be used against you.


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

Opus51569 said:


> Not to cast aspersions on professional fittings, but if I paid $250 for a fitting and they didn't write anything down for me, I'd take my future business elsewhere. I know when done right, it's a time intensive process and folks should be paid for that time, but that's a significant chunk of cash. Personally, for $250, I think a bike fitting should come with a massage and a "happy ending", but that's just IMHO.


There will be more sessions after logging more hours on the bike. I am assuming that after the final fitting and things are all adjusted and dialed in I would get the spec's. If not I will definatly be asking for them. I know the fitter input a bunch of data into his computer during the 2 hour process. I am supposed to go back after about 25 hours and again after about 100 hours.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Opus51569 said:


> Not to cast aspersions on professional fittings, but if I paid $250 for a fitting and they didn't write anything down for me, I'd take my future business elsewhere. I know when done right, it's a time intensive process and folks should be paid for that time, but that's a significant chunk of cash. Personally, for $250, I think a bike fitting should come with a massage and a "happy ending", but that's just IMHO.


I don't disagree with you, but most of us don't routinely get pro fits. That being the case, over a period of years after the OP's fit has evolved, that pro fittng he just got will likely be strayed from by a fair amount, and that piece of paper with numbers on it will only serve as a history.

That given, IMO it would be in a cylists best interest to learn how to take some measurements, because at some point in time, it'll be necessary - or at least advantageous to know how.

Sure, get the documentation. You paid for it. But I'd suggest not being misled into thinking it's a sort of security blanket. Fits evolve, numbers change and that documentation's importance will diminish.


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

PJ352 said:
 

> I don't disagree with you, but most of us don't routinely get pro fits. That being the case, over a period of years after the OP's fit has evolved, that pro fittng he just got will likely be strayed from by a fair amount, and that piece of paper with numbers on it will only serve as a history.
> 
> That given, IMO it would be in a cylists best interest to learn how to take some measurements, because at some point in time, it'll be necessary - or at least advantageous to know how.
> 
> Sure, get the documentation. You paid for it. But I'd suggest not being misled into thinking it's a sort of security blanket. Fits evolve, numbers change and that documentation's importance will diminish.


Yea, the fitter said that too. Good for a season or two but it is not a constant. Things change as we age and gain experience. I was mostly worried about setting up the cleats as I have had knee problems in the past.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BruceG1 said:


> Yea, the fitter said that too. Good for a season or two but it is not a constant. Things change as we age and gain experience. I was mostly worried about setting up the cleats as I have had knee problems in the past.


'Things change' as we age... for sure.  

Point taken on the knee issues and cleat set up. I've had the same and the last time I changed pedal systems made (at least) 5 changes to cleat position before settling into one. 

In your case did your fitter see the need for wedges?


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> 'Things change' as we age... for sure.
> 
> Point taken on the knee issues and cleat set up. I've had the same and the last time I changed pedal systems made (at least) 5 changes to cleat position before settling into one.
> 
> In your case did your fitter see the need for wedges?



He didn't say. Do they go between the cleat and bottom of shoe? 
It was interesting that he had me bring in an old pair of shoes he could pull the insole out of. Paid a lot of attention to my right foot throughout the set up of shoes, cleats and pedals. At the end I thought he did not need/want the insoles so I asked about it. He pulled the 2 insoles out and sure enough, different wear patterns that he had picked up on and made adjustments for. I was impressed!


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BruceG1 said:


> He didn't say.* Do they go between the cleat and bottom of shoe? *
> It was interesting that he had me bring in an old pair of shoes he could pull the insole out of. Paid a lot of attention to my right foot throughout the set up of shoes, cleats and pedals. At the end I thought he did not need/want the insoles so I asked about it. He pulled the 2 insoles out and sure enough, different wear patterns that he had picked up on and made adjustments for.* I was impressed*!


Some do, but others (in this case, called shims) go inside the shoe:
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=47399&menuItemId=9309&eid=4927

Yes, from what you've offered, I'd say you're working with a knowledgable fitter.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

Some good tips on this thread, thus far. I like the idea of taking a saddle height measurement and keeping it handy. I also like the Sharpie idea, particularly for posts that don't have centering marks already on them. Using the channel at the back of the seat tube as a guide, putting a dot on the post there, there would help to recenter the seat during a reinstall.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

If you really want to get exact, there are some seat posts on the market that have numbers on the side. Mine does, so I'm thinking about taking a label maker and writing the seat post and handle bar angle somewhere on the frame if I start traveling and having to break down the bike.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

I use a taillight on all my bikes and put the mounting bracket on the seapost tight up against the top of the seatpost clamp. That way if I need to remove the saddle for any reason, I just put it back in place and don't have to worry about it being off. This also comes in handy if I want to play around with saddle height as I can adjust that bracket by a known amount, up or down, test the ride and always return to my starting point if needed.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

cdhbrad said:


> I use a taillight on all my bikes and put the mounting bracket on the seapost tight up against the top of the seatpost clamp. That way if I need to remove the saddle for any reason, I just put it back in place and don't have to worry about it being off. *This also comes in handy if I want to play around with saddle height as I can adjust that bracket by a known amount, up or down,* test the ride and always return to my starting point if needed.


I'm not understanding this. If you move the bracket, you've lost your point of reference, haven't you?? 

EDIT: Ah, I get it. The _known amount _phrase is key. Gotcha.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

Right.... a "known amount", and I'm talking mms. I use either a steel ruler which is about 1mm thick or small hex wrenches that are 2-3mm and use that to space the bracket to the point I want to try. I can always put it back to the beginning point.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

cdhbrad said:


> Right.... a "known amount", and I'm talking mms. I use either a steel ruler which is about 1mm thick or small hex wrenches that are 2-3mm and use that to space the bracket to the point I want to try. I can always put it back to the beginning point.


Yup, I follow you. For your purposes that's a fine method and I've done similarly. But I still hold to the premise that once fit is dialed in taking, then documenting measurements is the better way to go.


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## cdhbrad (Feb 18, 2003)

Agreed, I've got everything written down to for all my bikes.


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## memphisr32 (Feb 3, 2009)

Black sharpie doesn't work well enough for you?


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## MCF (Oct 12, 2006)

I push the clamp for my tail light down the seatpost to the seatpost clamp.


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## BryanSayer (Sep 22, 2009)

Marking the seatpost (etc) means you can re-assemble the bike after shipping or what have you WITHOUT the need for also sending a tape measure. Very practical.


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## BruceG1 (Apr 6, 2010)

I washed my bike this weekend for the 1st time. (Only had it a month now). I discovered that my seat post tube has indicators on it already. All I have to remember is 4.1! If I knew how to post pictures on this forum I would I could show ya.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

BryanSayer said:


> Marking the seatpost (etc) means you can re-assemble the bike after shipping or what have you WITHOUT the need for also sending a tape measure. Very practical.


In your specific example, I guess. Although if I were shipping/ transporting a bike I wouldn't fret over "also sending a tape measure". But that aside, when the bike isn't available or you're duplicating the build, it's advantageous to have seat height along with a few other key measurements documented.

BTW, If you're that 'married' to your seat post, what do you plan on doing if it's lost/ stolen or (dare I say??) mutilated??


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