# tape on BMC seatpost?



## PoorCyclist

Can you tell me where to apply the tape to the seatpost to prevent creaking? (SLR01)

I have the clear tape already (3M), but was not sure you apply the full length of the seatpost, or just near the top of the seat tube?

all around or just the back "ruler" area?


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## wheelsgman

I recently built up my SLR01 and have not had noticed any creaking in the first 300 miles. I started by applying a 1” wide strip of polyester tape on the rear of the seatpost covering the section that’s inserted into the frame. I could feel a very slight wobble when I rocked the seat hard. So then I added another strip of tape on the front, and that did the trick :thumbsup:. The insertion was very snug, and I had to tap the seat with my fist to fine-tune the seatpost to the correct height before cinching done on the expander bolt. Good luck!


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## Wilier_speed

Personally, I think BMC should offer some sort of fix for this issue. I've never seen an SLR01 that didn't have this problem and there's no reason why we should have to tape up a brand new seat post (my creaking started after a week.) 
BMC - you guys make great bikes and the SLR01 is fantastic but this needs to be addressed!


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## PoorCyclist

Thanks... so you guys taped it all the way down the post to the polymer?


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## looigi

I put tape on 3-4 cm of the seat post at and below the top of the seat tube. The tape just covers the rear portion of the post.


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## trustbran

There also needs to be a fix for the BMC RM01 Seatpost freakin slipping everytime I ride! I have tried the carbon paste and it only lasts so long and then the slipping re-occurs! It's so annoying, I love my RM01 but this issue is terrible especially for a new bike. 

Mahalo,
Brandon


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## rushtrack

trustbran said:


> There also needs to be a fix for the BMC RM01 Seatpost freakin slipping everytime I ride! I have tried the carbon paste and it only lasts so long and then the slipping re-occurs! It's so annoying, I love my RM01 but this issue is terrible especially for a new bike.
> 
> Mahalo,
> Brandon


Hi Brandon, is this a 2011 or 2012 model?


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## twin001

Exact opposite problem here! I applied the tape to the front and rear of the seat mast and now I can't move the seat up / down anymore. Creaking is gone though


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## PoorCyclist

I had one ride and just with a tighter adjustment on the polymer and carbon paste above it.
no slipping.


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## Guod

PoorCyclist said:


> I had one ride and just with a tighter adjustment on the polymer and carbon paste above it.
> no slipping.


+1 On this. If you adjust the amount that the stopper expands, you can usually correct any creaking/slipping. I've had my 2011 SLR01 on the road for over 400mi now and after a bit of tweaking I haven't really had any issues with the stream post.


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## looigi

My advice is to have the post and inside of the seat tube dry and clean, and use tape on the back of post if it squeaks. Carbon paste isn't intended as a lube to prevent squeaks and if it gets on the expansion plug can cause it to slip. FWIW, I have 6000 miles on my 2011 SLR01.


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## PoorCyclist

looigi said:


> My advice is to have the post and inside of the seat tube dry and clean, and use tape on the back of post if it squeaks. Carbon paste isn't intended as a lube to prevent squeaks and if it gets on the expansion plug can cause it to slip. FWIW, I have 6000 miles on my 2011 SLR01.


The carbon paste grit does take up slops too, but tape works too I guess. 
If I still have strange noises I will try the tape, but IMO it changes the shape of the seatpost, I can see the gaps on the corner after the seatpost is taped, basically it's a shim to make things tighter.
But I probably just have 6 miles on mine :aureola:

BMC should have included an insert on how to adjust the seatpost.
I think part of the comfort of the bike is supposed to have to do with the polymer, but if there is a way to convert it to 2012 I think I will consider.


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## looigi

I'll mention that I pack my bike up to fly, which entails removing and reinstalling the seat post each way. Carbon paste would be a mess and impossible to keep off the expansion plug and out of the inside of the seat tube where the plug needs to have friction.


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## PoorCyclist

I took my post out after about 20 miles to inspect because sometimes when I take a sharp turn it would make a popping noise.. it looks like the carbon friction paste or the seattube inner surface scratched the seatpost clearcoat up a bit from movement, so obviously the friction paste was a poor long term solution. and I only used a thin coat, it is misleading that a big pack of FSA friction paste came along with the bike manual so it would seem they want you to use this on the seatpost!

I took it out cleaned all the surfaces the best as I can reach into the seattube.
and finally I borrowed some kapton tape from work, there are two thicknesses and I used the thinner one on the back, and that did not do it. I applied to the front edge too and it covers the curved corners which seems to be the culprit letting the post move.. The post is quite snug to insert now but it is solid, no noise and I cannot move the seatpost left or right. Keep in mind every frame is probably a bit different and we are talking about fraction of a millimeter shim, so it took some trial and error.

Thanks looigi for the tip on the tape!


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## eljimberino

Ok I feel I am at my wits end with this after a months trial and error. 

The streampost seems to make a dull thud at the 12 oclock position on the right side crank on every rotation under load and seated. Only when seated, so it is not the saddle rails or the cranks, both of which I have removed cleaned and regreased. And the pedals too. 

I have tried electrical tape, sticky tape and now cotton tape. I did buy some transparent adhesive but it was too thick and rolled up when putting the post down. 

Tried one/two layers in all positions, front back sides etc etc. 

Purchased some carbon assembly gel and tried that. Nope. 

With/without a light coating of grease inside the tube of the housing. Nothing. 

The last thing I have tried tonight is tightening the polymer bolt beyond finger tight. Did this with a pair of pliers and hex key. How tight is too tight? The alu plate has about 1mm room before it begins engaging/pushing against the polymer, with the top bolt in the open position. 

In the open position there is no resistance when first slotting the streampost inside the seat tube. Should the polymer rub slightly when it first enters the hole? 

When I first got the bike there was no noise, so I believe the post is the correct size. When I removed the post for the first time there was a layer of spherical goo up and down the post. Anyone know what this may be?

Any other ideas?

Thank you for your time


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## eljimberino

Found this with what looks like a sleeve right the way around. Will attempt to find something like this...:mad2:


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## eljimberino

Relax everyone it was the cranks.


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## nismosr

first ride on my 11 slr01 I noticed the creaking sound, put all purpose lubricant and creak is gone.


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## looigi

nismosr said:


> first ride on my 11 slr01 I noticed the creaking sound, put all purpose lubricant and creak is gone.


The seat post is held in position by friction of an elastomer plug. There's a chance that over time the lube will allow it to start slipping, especially if you remove and reinstall the seatpost and get lube on the plug and further down the seat tube. Carbon friction paste, despite it's name, can cause the same problem.


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## nismosr

looigi said:


> The seat post is held in position by friction of an elastomer plug. There's a chance that over time the lube will allow it to start slipping, especially if you remove and reinstall the seatpost and get lube on the plug and further down the seat tube. Carbon friction paste, despite it's name, can cause the same problem.



i'll find out soon enough, with 210lbs weight right now I won't be surprise if it happens.


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