# Rival brake lever reach adjust



## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

I have smaller hands and figured out where the adjuster screw was to pull the brake levers in a bit so it's not as far a reach. Problem is once I got them in where I wanted them the brake pads were rubbing the rims breaking surface not allowing the wheel to spin freely. What do I need to do to remedy this? I have a full 2009 Rival setup. Thanks


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## TucsonMTB (Aug 3, 2008)

If you can't get enough cable slack to release the brakes by adjusting the barrel adjusters, you will have to loosen the cable clamping bolt and allow more slack and then re-tighten it in the new location after letting out some cable.


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

Thanks, I had to end up doing that w/ the clamping bolt. I've since been playing with to try and get the best reach. What do you use to tighten the slack on the cable, do you use a pair of pliers and pull?


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## TucsonMTB (Aug 3, 2008)

I don't usually use a pliers. It might damage the strands of the cable.

Instead, I usually screw the barrel adjuster at the brake all the way in, loosen the cable binding bolt, pull the cable reasonably tight by hand, re-tighten the cable binding bolt and then unscrew the barrel adjuster to tighten up the cable, if necessary.

The other advantage to this approach is that you only need an allen wrench to loosen and tighten the binder bolt, so you could perform this operation by the side of road if necessary. You do carry a couple of allen wrenches for your cables and saddle adjustments, I presume.


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

When you are screwing it in are you going all the way in toward the brake (counterclockwise turn) or in towards the seatpost (clockwise turn)?

And then when you unscrew the barrel adjuster does this tighten the entire cable back thru towards the hoods? How tight do you want this to be, I guess that would be an easier question to answer in person.

I carry a compact multi allen wrench tool in my saddle bag.


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## TucsonMTB (Aug 3, 2008)

Weav said:


> When you are screwing it in are you going all the way in toward the brake (counterclockwise turn) or in towards the seatpost (clockwise turn)?


Yes, all the way toward the brake, but that is clockwise when viewed from above.



Weav said:


> And then when you unscrew the barrel adjuster does this tighten the entire cable back thru towards the hoods?


Yep!



Weav said:


> How tight do you want this to be, I guess that would be an easier question to answer in person.


It's not so much how tight . . . as how far you want your brake pads from the rim. It's personal choice, so long as your brakes work and your brake pads don't drag on the rim.  



Weav said:


> I carry a compact multi allen wrench tool in my saddle bag.


Cool! :thumbsup:


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## Weav (Jun 21, 2009)

Ok, so turning the barrel adjuster clockwise as you describe moves the brake pads away from the rim, correct?

The final step is unscrewing the barrel adjuster to move brake pads to my desired distance from the rim, correct?


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## TucsonMTB (Aug 3, 2008)

Weav said:


> Ok, so turning the barrel adjuster clockwise as you describe moves the brake pads away from the rim, correct?


Nope! The barrel adjuster has normal, right-hand threads. Turning it clockwise effectively shortens the adjuster, slackens the cable, and moves the pads farther from the rim. I suggested clamping the cable with a little more slack than you need and then un-screwing the barrel adjuster (turning it counter-clockwise) to take up some of the extra slack.



Weav said:


> The final step is unscrewing the barrel adjuster to move brake pads to my desired distance from the rim, correct?


Yes. Presuming that you started with it screwed all, or nearly all, the way in, and the pads are not close enough when you pull the cable by hand and tighten the clamping bolt.

The idea is to have the cable clamped at a location that allows you to make the final gap adjustment with the barrel adjuster. If you don't have your brakes in front of you to play with, it is hard to visualise. When you do have the brakes in hand, it *should* make more sense.


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