# Cervelo S1 vs. Specialized Roubaix Elite...thoughts?



## speedycb (Oct 21, 2008)

I'm just getting into cycling and I'm purchasing my first proper road bike as a reward for finishing the upcoming NYC Marathon. My plans are to eventually enter some sprint and Olympic distance triathlons, join a cycling team in NYC, go on group rides and maybe some cycling races. Therefore, I'd like a road bike that can transition into a tri bike...

My total budget for the bike + accessories is about $3,000. I'm considering the 2009 Specialized Roubaix Elite 54cm and the 2009 Cervelo S1 56cm. (I'm actually between the two sizes but the LBS recommended I go up to a 56 in Cervelo...).

I really like the look of the Cervelo and could even snag a 2008 model at 15% off. I'm a little hung up on the aluminum though. I know it doesn't mean it's a worse bike, but I'm concerned that I will "feel" too much of the road and have read reviews about the bike being "rumbly." Am also concerned that I'll want to upgrade to carbon too soon after buying it. Will I be suffering through really long rides with a bike like this that is "stiff"? Is it too aggressive of a position for a beginner? I really like what I've read about it being a great bike that morphs from road to tri though. Did I mention I really like the way it looks? (Even though this should not be a huge factor, but hey, it's a lot of money I better be jazzed about it.)

As for the Roubaix Elite, when I first saw it I winced at the curved top tube. And it's consistently referred to as a more upright positioning. Perhaps I'll like this more relaxed positioning as a beginner, but I don't want to feel like I'm sitting too upright. If I'm spending over $2k, I want to do it right. Overall, I am enticed by the carbon of this bike and the added elements which create a smoother ride, and the fact that several friends have recommended the LBS and salesman who I would buy it from...

Does anyone have experience with either? Would love to hear some thoughts. Thanks!


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## aaronis31337 (Apr 7, 2008)

The Roubaix is a top notch bike and the 2009 is a brand new design -- it's supposed to be the top in it's class. 

IMHO, both bikes are overpriced. Look around for something titanium. Don't be put off by going used for your first bike -- especially if it's titanium. I bought my first bike new and I sold it after only 6 months when I figured out what I really wanted. That being said, I'd chose the roubaix over any Aluminum. 

Good luck!


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## Swerny (Mar 4, 2008)

I'm curious why you aren't looking at the Tarmac rather than the Roubaix, escpecially since you're comapring to the S1.


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## speedycb (Oct 21, 2008)

I did look at the Tarmac as well. The first salesman (at the LBS which sells Specialized) commented to me that it's more of an aggressive position, and a stiffer bike (I'd feel more of the road). I think he was pushing me towards the Roubaix Elite thinking I'd be more comfortable on it. Unfortunately I can't test ride either because they don't have my size in the shops which is a real bummer. 

The shop that sells Cervelo did comment that they do fittings on Specialized and converting their Roubaix model (the one I'm looking at perhaps) is iffy. They said it's just a harder to put the aero bars on that bike and the measurements are not always right. Whereas the Cervelo works much better as a tri bike setup as well. Hmmm...

Anyhow, I'm sorry I forgot to mention it but the Tarmac is also in the running as well. It's probably a better comparison to the Cervelo.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

Keep in mind that I don't know anything about the Cervelo S1, so I can't say anything about it.

I don't know how long a "distance triathalon" is, but if you're looking for a bike that can do really long rides and sprints, I wouldn't buy anything in the Specialized line less than a Tarmac Expert (8r carbon frame), but while last year's model was $2800, this year's model is $3700. :-(

You can get a bike that's fast, performant, and comfortable for 100 miles, but it's an expensive higher end full carbon bike.

People don't realize this, but if you go and test ride a bunch of different carbon bikes their rides are very very different. Even in the Specialized line, the Tarmac is stiff and responsive to the point of being borderline twitchy, while the Roubaix is comfortable and stable even though they're both full carbon. By the time you get into the top-end models, some of the differences have dissapeared (the top end Roubaix is much stiffer than the base Roubaix, while be as or more comfortable, while the Tarmac goes from being stiff but somewhat buzzy to even more stiff with no buzz). If you buy a full carbon bike, you may find yourself craving another style of full carbon bike with difference ride characteristics.

Because you're just getting into cycling, I would actually suggest you buy a cheaper bike first. Something that comes with 105 components is likely going to be "good enough" for training and beginning racing. In the Specialized line, that would be the Specialized Allez which has a carbon front fork and rear stays, but aluminum frame. Maybe that's what the Cervelo is, to? The reason I say this is that if you haven't biked before, you won't have developed the biking muscles and flexibility to determine which much more expensive bike fits you the best, and that's a really big deal when spending thousands of dollars on a bike. And when you test ride then, you can get a realistic, experienced feel for how you're going to like the bike - which is important when you're spending thousands of dollars on bike equipment.

If you were going to be doing century rides I might recommend the Roubaix, but if you're planning on doing sprints I would definitely recommend something more like the Tarmac or the Allez first. 

Oh, and a proper bike fitting.


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## gatorling (Jun 25, 2008)

I'll try to keep this short and sweet.
Roubaix = marketed as a comfort sportive bike. Best suited towards stage racing, road racing and centuries. Sub-optimal performance in crits, time trials (triathalons).
Cervelo Soloist = A super aggressive road bike with aero considerations. Best suited towards crits and time trials (basically situations where you would do minimal drafting). Riding this bike on stage races, centuries and tours will probably be painful after a while.

But why are you going for such high end bikes when you're just getting into the sport? I'd go for neither and grab a solid aluminum bike to start off with. I hear CAADs are pretty nice and I've been very happy with my Specialized Allez.
I wouldn't worry about things like stiffness, unless you're exceptionally talented I don't think you'll be generating enough power to significantly twist a frame until you've been competitively cycling for at least two years..at which time you'll be much better suited at picking a bike that fits your exact needs.

I for one am very glad that I didn't throw down 3k for a bike. Any 1k-1.5k bike will do you just fine, I'd spend the remaining 1.5k-2k (if you just NEED to spend money) on buying tools that will make training easier and more structured.

But if you're dead set on one or the other, sounds like the S1 would better fit your requirements. Don't expect it to be a comfortable bike though.


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## swimbikerun867 (Jan 26, 2009)

Oh goodness, I would go with the cervelo S1 BY FAR. It is such an amazing bike. Every single pedal stroke I put into it goes straight to the road. It is so amazing. I just switched over from an entry level road bike, and my god, I'm AVERAGING around 23 mph. I used to average around 18 mph. It's insane. The bike is so fast. My friend who I ride with has a roubaix. We both switched around the same time, and we had the same entry level bike ( a trek 1000sl). He would ALWAYS beat me. Well, we just went on a 60+ ride yesterday, and I beat him so badly. 

It is such a fast bike, and I can easily keep in a pace line with bikes that are full carbon powered by guys with gargantuan calve muscles. It is so smooth, and wicked fast. You have to give it a try, I promise, you'll love it. The moment I rode it at my LBS, I quickly decided that it was the bike for me. 

Suggestion: the San Marco saddle it comes with is REALLY firm. I suggest getting a new saddle once you get your S1. 

get the S1!


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## speedycb (Oct 21, 2008)

I took the plunge a few months back and got the S1. So excited about it. I LOVE THIS BIKE! My riding has been limited due to the weather up north, but my training begins this weekend with my team.

Do you have any saddle recommendations? I agree - this one is quite stiff...

Thanks!!


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## swimbikerun867 (Jan 26, 2009)

oh it definitely needs an upgrade. I'm a girl, and even this saddle hurts me! I would go with a Fizik Aliante Carbon, Selle Italia Team Edition, Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow, SMP Strike Evolution.

I have the selle italia SLR gel flow on my S1. it feels so much better!


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

swimbikerun867 said:


> Oh goodness, I would go with the cervelo S1 BY FAR. It is such an amazing bike. Every single pedal stroke I put into it goes straight to the road. It is so amazing. I just switched over from an entry level road bike, and my god, I'm AVERAGING around 23 mph. I used to average around 18 mph. It's insane. The bike is so fast...


I'm sure the Cerevelo S1 is a very nice bike.

But if you went from one road bike to another and sped up from from 18mph to 23mph average, you're:
1. In extremely excellent biking shape already.
2. Have been dragging a boat anchor behind you on your old bike. ;-) Seriously, 5mph increase from 13mph to 18mph is a tiny bit possible if you went from a heavy knobby tired mountain bike to a sleek road bike, but 18mph to 23mph is like your brakes were rubbing against your wheel, one of your tires was half inflated, and you were towing a boat behind you. Go out to the garage and check - is there a boat hooked up behind your old road bike?


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## Bianchi67 (Oct 16, 2005)

swimbikerun867 said:


> Oh goodness, I would go with the cervelo S1 BY FAR. It is such an amazing bike. Every single pedal stroke I put into it goes straight to the road. It is so amazing. I just switched over from an entry level road bike, and my god, I'm AVERAGING around 23 mph. I used to average around 18 mph. It's insane. The bike is so fast. My friend who I ride with has a roubaix. We both switched around the same time, and we had the same entry level bike ( a trek 1000sl). He would ALWAYS beat me. Well, we just went on a 60+ ride yesterday, and I beat him so badly.
> 
> It is such a fast bike, and I can easily keep in a pace line with bikes that are full carbon powered by guys with gargantuan calve muscles. It is so smooth, and wicked fast. You have to give it a try, I promise, you'll love it. The moment I rode it at my LBS, I quickly decided that it was the bike for me.
> 
> ...


The only why to get a 5mph increase from a Trek 1000 to any other bike is to accidently set the new bike's computer to use Kilometers and not realize it.


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## swimbikerun867 (Jan 26, 2009)

well, considering the bike store i went to fit me on an oversized bike, didn't fit it to my proportions, and basically didn't give a crap about the fit in general, once i got onto a fitted bike, i shot off. The trek was a clunker compared to this. I trained on an improperly fitted bike for three years. why? because I didn't know any better. So I pushed myself. When I switched to the cervelo S1, the geometry was perfect for me, and my good LBS did a great job of sizing me. And I really am in good shape. I swim 2 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the afternoon with my club team. Getting a properly fitted bike really makes a huge difference (besides, i was really motivated by my new bike).
The cervelo is the better bike. I swear by it.


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## Bianchi67 (Oct 16, 2005)

swimbikerun867 said:


> The cervelo is the better bike. I swear by it.


I agree 100%.

PS - you would be just as fast on a properly fitting T1000.


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## stevenpock (Nov 23, 2008)

I have never ridden a Cervelo so I have nothing to say about the S1, but I too am new to cycling and did recently buy a Tarmac (2008 Comp) and test rode a couple Roubaix in the process.

I didn't quite have the funds that you do and was considering the Allez for a while. After feeling the difference in the ride of the aluminum Allez (even the Elite with the carbon seat stays) and the full carbon bikes, I have to recommend a carbon bike if you want to spend the money. Luckily I got an incredible deal on a 2008 Tarmac. The Comp is second from the bottom in the Tarmac line (and therefore doesn't have the highest-quality carbon fiber), but even though it is stiffer than most lower-end bikes it rides AWESOME. I love my bike and would highly recommend any Tarmac. Like I said I am no expert so I don't know about it being "buzzy," but it is really fun to ride. It's light (by my standards), handles great, and rides really smooth. If you haven't ridden one, it is also a very competitive geometry compared to all of the other bikes I rode, but it is still comfortable and I imagine would suit your needs quite well. Also, if I desire a slightly more relaxed ride I turn the stem up and can sit a bit more upright - the fit stays perfect. 

As for the Roubaix, yes, it is a more "relaxed" geometry compared to the Tarmac, but if you test ride one you will realize that it is still pretty competitive. I think the main things that makes them better for long distances are the Zertz inserts, more plush saddle, and I think they come with 25mm tires instead of 23 (not that that's hard to change). I'm not sure about attaching aero bars but the bike itself was a surprisingly competitive geometry to me.

I suppose somebody with more experience on the Roubaix and S1 can give you better input than me, but I highly recommend a Tarmac if you think it would fit your needs and price range.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

I have the '08 Tarmac Comp as well, and IMO you summed up its attributes very well. I think they perform better (overall) than the price suggests.


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## bobster27 (Jan 27, 2009)

When you just get into cycling, i think it's a good idea to get a fairly basic bike, because being in a comfortable position or aggressive position, you don't know what you're used to. It also depends on what kind of riding you do. if you're an enthusiast who's looking to go for nice long rides without trying to pass everyone consider the roubaix, if you're interested in racing either go for the tarmac or S1.

I ride with a shop who sell specialized and i ride a cervelo soloist carbon, what i found that the range of tarmacs is quite large and trying to match up to the standard of a cervelo, you're looking at the upper end tarmacs. 

My advice would be to get a basic bike to start with, when you gain some knowledge about what you need or like, spend a little bit more money on something you're more sure of.
If i were in your position it'd be the S1, as i'm contemplating on either purchasing an SL2 or an S3/R3SL leaning towards the Cervelo. I find the S models are great for road racing, triathlon/tt races and everyday riding, compared to the race ready tarmac which i find a lil stiffer and uncomfortable


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## speedycb (Oct 21, 2008)

swimbikerun867 said:


> oh it definitely needs an upgrade. I'm a girl, and even this saddle hurts me! I would go with a Fizik Aliante Carbon, Selle Italia Team Edition, Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow, SMP Strike Evolution.
> 
> I have the selle italia SLR gel flow on my S1. it feels so much better!


Man I must be totally out of it. I just took a closer look and my bike actually came with the Selle Italia SLR Gel Flow! Is this standard on the S1? Too bad I already thought it hurt my butt! Maybe I better investigate the quality of my bike shorts...


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## PigmyRacer (Oct 3, 2007)

If you are interested in doing triathlons, getting a "basic bike" as some people might suggest is a good way to waste a thousand bucks. It is pretty clear in my mind that anybody who is willing to spend $3000 on a bike is pretty sure that they want to and know how to ride. It is also clear that you are pretty serious about riding hard and eventually racing. If that is in fact the case, the S1 is the obvious choice. Aside from probably being one of the best values in frames, the S1 is one of only a handful of frames that can safely be converted from a drop bar road bike to a tri bike. By contrast, the Roubaix is a pure road frame meant to keep you in an upright position. It could not be converted to a tri bike without serious safety risks. With regard to the aluminum nature of the S1's frame, don't obsess over reviews you read on the internet. People think that aluminum rides differently than carbon because they want to, not because it does. The S1 is a well built frame, it will serve you well. 

No matter what you do, however, I would strongly suggest that you stay away from the "cheap out now, invest later" philosophy. If you want to ride a lot and/or race you should absolutely invest in a strong frame.


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## MCF (Oct 12, 2006)

*I agree 100%...*



PaulRivers said:


> I'm sure the Cerevelo S1 is a very nice bike.
> 
> But if you went from one road bike to another and sped up from from 18mph to 23mph average, you're:
> 1. In extremely excellent biking shape already.
> 2. Have been dragging a boat anchor behind you on your old bike. ;-) Seriously, 5mph increase from 13mph to 18mph is a tiny bit possible if you went from a heavy knobby tired mountain bike to a sleek road bike, but 18mph to 23mph is like your brakes were rubbing against your wheel, one of your tires was half inflated, and you were towing a boat behind you. Go out to the garage and check - is there a boat hooked up behind your old road bike?


I went from a Lemond and my aggressive hour long (all I have time for during the week) I could push out 18mph....now I can hit 20mph on a good day on my Cervelo RS that comes in at 15.8lbs. Usually average about 19.5mph. That is about what I expected, but comfort is much better.


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## PaulRivers (Sep 11, 2006)

PigmyRacer said:


> If you are interested in doing triathlons, getting a "basic bike" as some people might suggest is a good way to waste a thousand bucks. It is pretty clear in my mind that anybody who is willing to spend $3000 on a bike is pretty sure that they want to and know how to ride. It is also clear that you are pretty serious about riding hard and eventually racing. If that is in fact the case, the S1 is the obvious choice. Aside from probably being one of the best values in frames, the S1 is one of only a handful of frames that can safely be converted from a drop bar road bike to a tri bike. By contrast, the Roubaix is a pure road frame meant to keep you in an upright position. It could not be converted to a tri bike without serious safety risks. With regard to the aluminum nature of the S1's frame, don't obsess over reviews you read on the internet. People think that aluminum rides differently than carbon because they want to, not because it does. The S1 is a well built frame, it will serve you well.
> 
> No matter what you do, however, I would strongly suggest that you stay away from the "cheap out now, invest later" philosophy. If you want to ride a lot and/or race you should absolutely invest in a strong frame.


If you haven't been riding a road bike for years already, buying a $3,000 bike is a good way to waste $3,000. Being "serious" about riding isn't going to change the physical properties of your bike. Buying a bike that's not quite the right size. Quite the right fit. Or not quite your riding preference - for $3,000-$7,000 you can buy a bike that's super stiff but harsh or super comfy but spongy and anything and everything in between. You just don't know where exactly you're going to fit on the spectrum until you've been riding for a while - both because you get a feel for what you don't like, and because you build up muscles and flexibility.

As a more concrete example, I've ridden nearly all the levels of specialized tarmac's on pretty long and varied test rides. I found that the lowest level tarmac - $2k - had way to much "road buzz" for me to ever ride comfortably for long distances. The next level up - $3k - was fine, though not perfect. However, when I posted about it there were at least 2 people who had the $2k tarmac that had *no idea* what I was talking about and insisted that they had never had a problem with this. It's not that one of us is wrong, it's simply that we have different levels of sensitivity - I tend to have sensitive wrists, for example. In another test ride I rode a very expensive Scott. It was to stiff - the whole back end would jump around like a bucking bronco on rough ground. If I was new to bikes, I might have thought that was normal. I also road an Orbea - super, super comfy ride. Even moreso than the Roubaix. But on a rough road on a downhill the steering would sort of melt away and I'd find myself hitting the brakes to feel safe. I might have just assumed that was normal if I didn't have experience riding. And when I rode the Roubaix, the frame just never fit right (though I was working with a bike fitter) whereas the Tarmac frame just fit my body geometry better.

If you have the money to blow, by all means by a really nice bike to begin with! It's just money - you can always make more.  If buying a *second* $3,000-$4,000 bike in a couple of years is within your reach, that's great. If not I'd suggest starting with something cheaper until you've done more riding. Lots of people seem to find a use for having a 2nd cheaper bike, whether it's for commuting on it or riding it when it's raining to protect their really expensive bike (I ride my expensive one in the rain, but a lot of people don't seem to like to do that).

But this all all "advice", to be considered but not taken as gospel.


That being said, this guy just sounds like a huge Cervelo fanboy who goes around making stuff up about other bikes. I have no idea what he's talking about with "safely converting your bike to a tri bike". A road bike is already 98% a tri bike - the only "conversion" you might do is adding aero bars to the handlebars. The difference between a dedicated tri bike and a road bike is that the tri bike is built to be slightly more aerodynamic (though it's often slightly heavier) and the ride is rougher than on a road bike. You're not going to be bombing through mountain bike trails, so I don't know what the heck he thinks he's talking about. A road bike is already 98% a tri bike, and a "pure road frame" isn't designed to "keep you in an upright position", it's designed you keep you in an aerodynamic position (not quite as extreme as a dedicated tri bike, but it's close while being way more comfortable). I don't believe the Cervelo is a dedicated tri bike either.


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## PigmyRacer (Oct 3, 2007)

PaulRivers said:


> That being said, this guy just sounds like a huge Cervelo fanboy who goes around making stuff up about other bikes. I have no idea what he's talking about with "safely converting your bike to a tri bike". A road bike is already 98% a tri bike - the only "conversion" you might do is adding aero bars to the handlebars. The difference between a dedicated tri bike and a road bike is that the tri bike is built to be slightly more aerodynamic (though it's often slightly heavier) and the ride is rougher than on a road bike. You're not going to be bombing through mountain bike trails, so I don't know what the heck he thinks he's talking about. A road bike is already 98% a tri bike, and a "pure road frame" isn't designed to "keep you in an upright position", it's designed you keep you in an aerodynamic position (not quite as extreme as a dedicated tri bike, but it's close while being way more comfortable). I don't believe the Cervelo is a dedicated tri bike either.


I'm not exactly sure why you are making this so personal seeing as I made no specific reference to your, or anybody else's posts. A few notes...

Finding a bike that feels comfortable does not necessarily require years of experience. The OP has asked about two very different bikes. You are pushing a third option based on your assumption that the OP can't figure out what he likes for himself. 

The fact that I disagreed with you in answering the OP's question doesn't make me obsessed with Cervelo so you just sound like an idiot to insinuate otherwise. 

As for your last comment. Either you are an idiot, or you've never actually seen a triathlon before.  You know those little bars on the front of the bike that you always see guys resting their arms on? Do you think maybe they change the way the bike handles? You can't put a set of aerobars on a road bike and expect the bike to handle well if at all. One of the reasons people buy Soloists is because they have a geometry that is stable enough to ride with an aerobar setup. So road bikes are not in fact "98% tri bike," in fact that is kind of a stupid thing to say. Road bikes do not keep you in remotely the same position as a tri bike either. So aside from the position, geometry and aerodynamics, you're right, there are no differences between the Cervelo and a regular road bike.


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## cyclequip (Oct 20, 2004)

PigmyRacer said:


> As for your last comment. Either you are an idiot, or you've never actually seen a triathlon before. You know those little bars on the front of the bike that you always see guys resting their arms on? Do you think maybe they change the way the bike handles? You can't put a set of aerobars on a road bike and expect the bike to handle well if at all. One of the reasons people buy Soloists is because they have a geometry that is stable enough to ride with an aerobar setup. So road bikes are not in fact "98% tri bike," in fact that is kind of a stupid thing to say. Road bikes do not keep you in remotely the same position as a tri bike either. So aside from the position, geometry and aerodynamics, you're right, there are no differences between the Cervelo and a regular road bike.



Nonsense! Anyone riding on tri bars resting their elbows on the bars is inherently unstable. Whether this is on a Cervelo Soloist or Tarmac is irrelevant. Geometry differences in a tri bike are a function of positioning the rider forward and down - try get stable in this position on any bike!!!


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## speedycb (Oct 21, 2008)

Me again, this has turned into a pretty feisty conversation. Anyhow, I realized after I came back and read this that I said I bought the S1. I actually went a little crazy and bought the SLC (Soloist Carbon). I know a lot of you out there might think I'm smoking crack for buying this as my first bike, but I really liked this bike for a lot of reasons. And I think the mental excitement will help motivate me in rides. I didn't want to spent $2k on a bike now and want an upgrade in a year. Luckily I got a 2008 model on markdown, but that was after a huge struggle with my LBS (which is a very long story). 

I've also upped the ante for my 2009 race plans and am now doing two half-Ironman races and am on a tri-team. I know this bike is going to serve me well. So excited about all of this!


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## choppedsled (Sep 18, 2008)

Congrats, you will love your SLC. I think you made the right choice buying a keeper from the start. And it sounds like you got a decent deal as well. I have a Soloist Team and agree the bike is very, very, quick. I've decided to focus on long distance riding so eventually I'll buy an R3 or RS. Love Cervelo's....


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## bobster27 (Jan 27, 2009)

speedycb said:


> Me again, this has turned into a pretty feisty conversation. Anyhow, I realized after I came back and read this that I said I bought the S1. I actually went a little crazy and bought the SLC (Soloist Carbon). I know a lot of you out there might think I'm smoking crack for buying this as my first bike, but I really liked this bike for a lot of reasons. And I think the mental excitement will help motivate me in rides. I didn't want to spent $2k on a bike now and want an upgrade in a year. Luckily I got a 2008 model on markdown, but that was after a huge struggle with my LBS (which is a very long story).
> 
> I've also upped the ante for my 2009 race plans and am now doing two half-Ironman races and am on a tri-team. I know this bike is going to serve me well. So excited about all of this!


congrats on getting the SLC
i bought one as well after a year of doing triathlons from a giant OCR
was a great bike to begin with, i put a proper set of aero bars on equipped with the base bar and tri shifters. top end bike to do anything, and i'm sure you'll be happy whether you're in a group, in a head wind or going up a hill, it really is great for almost every situation.

I just upgraded to a specialized s-works transition.. i bought it with road bars and then swapped the handlebars of each.. also on that note of handling, making a point to the previous argument, geometry is such a big thing for road/tri bikes.. for the person who said that they're the same, the fact that i had road bars on a tri bike i still could barely manouver it like a proper road bike, the top tubes are slanted or angled in a way where the centre of gravity is much lower where it requires the body to filt moreso than turn the bars, even though this is the same concept with a road bike, it restricts you further where almost no movement can be made at the bars. I've seen people use road bars on a cervelo P3C, and maybe it does work.. but the geometry or the fitting on my specialized transition is not a good way to make an aero road bike. stick with the cervelo


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## EasyAZ (Nov 2, 2007)

Focusing on the car you drive is where you can bypass all the fretting and hand wringing over a few thousand dollars. Yet much ado is made over a few thousand bucks, and such endless analysis and downright cattiness. Speedycb, your decision was spot on. When it comes to the bike, go with your gut and passion. You can always find a way to afford it. Simply go with cloth seats as an option instead of leather in your next car and bam! there's another bike. Ride it to work instead of driving and you've paid for another. Bottom line - get strong, flexible, eat well and get a properly fitted bike at whatever budget and you'll have fun. You're riding a bike after all!


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## michael23 (Feb 24, 2010)

does anyone here know why tri/TT geometries are different?

crash course: when you stay in an aero position with aero bars on a normal road bike geometry your thighs travel too high at the top of your pedal stroke relative to your torso and restricts your breathing. by increasing the angle of the seat tube you are opening up room for your thighs to move without hindering your breathing. also you are supporting your upper body with your skeleton and not your core muscles, and you can work your core muscles into your pedal stroke more for increased power. so more aero + more power + more breathing = awesome

control is really a dumb thing to argue about. if you are on a tricky course with aero bars you will spend more time out of them controlling the bike, but it is a little easier on a tri/tt bike than a converted road bike to control when you are in the aero bars (I would say that the rider's bike handling ability trump all other factors here, much like the engine that powers your bike(you) trumps the amount of cash you spend on your bike)

so all the stuff above is good and great for TT. but the most important part of a Tri geometry is only seen in triathlons. Because you are supporting your upper body with your skeleton and not your torso you are able to conserve your core muscles and not wear them out for the run you have to do afterwards. tons and tons of research shows that tri geometry (mostly the combo of the increased seat tube angle and properly fitted aero bars) leads to much better run times (we're talking 5-10% better).

In theory, you can set up any road bike to be in an effective tri geometry. However, there is only one bike (to my knowledge) that was designed to do so and that is the cervelo s1. I have heard lots of people talk about converting their road bikes for tris to save some cash and I have heard only good things from cervelo owners and not so great things from everyone else.

More importantly, don't learn science about bikes in a public forum. if you stop by cervelo's website they have a tech section with presentations on how bike making and geometry works, and seeing as pretty much everything they innovate is incorporated into other companies bikes within a year or two I'd say its worth a look


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