# Changing crankset



## SFTifoso (Aug 17, 2011)

Anybody know a good DIY on how to change a crankset? I've tried googling, but none are very good. Also, will I need to replace the chain if I'm going from 50/34 to 53/39?


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## Dan333sp (Aug 17, 2010)

I got into road biking last year, and the best present I received for christmas was the book Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance. It includes everything you'll need to know about swapping cranksets, I've used it for everything from learning how to repair a flat to replacing a shift lever. 
It's less than the price of a decent pair of gloves, so I'd say it's a worthy investment...
Amazon.com: Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (9781934030424): Lennard Zinn, Todd Telander: Books

As for whether you'll need a new chain... I'd ask that in the components/wrenching forum. I'd guess that you will, but I haven't messed around with chainswapping and changing gearing so I wouldn't know.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Nov 11, 2009)

SFTifoso said:


> Anybody know a good DIY on how to change a crankset?


The Park tool website doesn't suck.



> I've tried googling, but none are very good. Also, will I need to replace the chain if I'm going from 50/34 to 53/39?


Perhaps.

The big/big method of chain sizing uses the minimum to wrap around big ring and big cog then adds a full link (an inner half-link plus an outer). Three more teeth are going to take another full link or two.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Removal/ installation procedures vary based on the make/ model of the cranksets, so provide that and any other pertinent info (year/ make/ model of bike) and we can offer more specific advice/ resources.

Re: your chain question, (again) offering the above info would help, but generally speaking a simple crankset swap won't require a new chain. However, depending on current chain length, the one you're now using _may_ require another link or two. That can be determined after the new crankset is installed.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Zinn's book is a terrific reference. It's my favorite source. Park Tool's site is very good, too. The biggest problem is you need to have the computer where the bike is, and even then you may need to "rewind" or play the vid. again.


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## SFTifoso (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks for the links. Very informative. Anyways, the bike is a Trek 1.2. They come with FSA Vero cranks. I've done some more research and since this bike is a 9 speed it might be best to change the rear cassette and rear derailleurs as well, if I'm going to change the crank to 53/39.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

SFTifoso said:


> Thanks for the links. Very informative. Anyways, the bike is a Trek 1.2. They come with FSA Vero cranks. I've done some more research and since this bike is a 9 speed it might be best to change the rear cassette and rear derailleurs as well, if I'm going to change the crank to 53/39.


FSA Vero is a square taper crankset. Here's a link to Park's removal instructions. It's not for that specific brand/ model, but provides the steps and what to look for during the process.
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Crank Removal-Square Spindle Type

The current specs for the Trek 1.2 list a triple crankset, but you mentioned replacing a 50/34 (compact). Which do you have? 

Also, what brand/ model crankset are you installing?

The answers will help us advise on your cassette/ RD comments.


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## psycleridr (Jul 21, 2005)

SFTifoso said:


> Thanks for the links. Very informative. Anyways, the bike is a Trek 1.2. They come with FSA Vero cranks. I've done some more research and since this bike is a 9 speed it might be best to change the rear cassette and rear derailleurs as well, if I'm going to change the crank to 53/39.


What exactly are you basing this information on? Also whay are you going to a larger (standard) crank? What is your current cassette range? Can you honestly say you can get in you front big ring and your small (fastest) rear ring and spin that out?
What is your ultimate goal for the change?
You only replace a chain when it is strecthed out. You can buy this tool or your local shop can tell you
Often if you replace a chain many will replace the rear cassette as the two can wear a groove into each other and throwing a new chain on a used cassette (used significantly which is many thousands of miles) can cause clicking and bad shifting
If you are just replacing your cranks from a compact to a standard you will likely need more links in your current chain. How many will vary depending on system you are running and more specifically your RD. 
Some people are uncomfortable adding links to a chain and will just get a new one. If done right you just need a chain tool and is easy to do but would recommend against it if it is your first time.


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## nrgperformancepart (Dec 17, 2021)

Yeah I got a bike ( 2013 Opus Fidelio with this crankset ( cough, cough...garbage). It's heavy, inaccurate, and the effing crank arms actually flex (!!!) though it may be the bottom bracket. I just ordered a Shimano Ultegra 6500 crankset. I know that the Ultegra is damned fine stuff. Even 105 is good.... But Sora? I don't know.... Just type in Ultegra 6500 ( if it's a 2 x 9 like mine... I was going to get Sora myself but I did some research. This is something that isn't tough to do.... ( Try rebuilding a Ducati motorcycle that swallowed a valve if you want complex...). Get the best you can. I would rather get second hand Ultegra than brand new Sora... That's me though.... Quality counts


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## nrgperformancepart (Dec 17, 2021)

I liked. My bike has the FSA Tempo. It's somewhat lighter than the Vero. Both are still not great. The Ultegra will be better


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

nrgperformancepart said:


> Yeah I got a bike ( 2013 Opus Fidelio with this crankset ( cough, cough...garbage). It's heavy, inaccurate, and the effing crank arms actually flex (!!!) though it may be the bottom bracket. I just ordered a Shimano Ultegra 6500 crankset. I know that the Ultegra is damned fine stuff. Even 105 is good.... But Sora? I don't know.... Just type in Ultegra 6500 ( if it's a 2 x 9 like mine... I was going to get Sora myself but I did some research. This is something that isn't tough to do.... ( Try rebuilding a Ducati motorcycle that swallowed a valve if you want complex...). Get the best you can. I would rather get second hand Ultegra than brand new Sora... That's me though.... Quality counts


You do realize this thread is a decade old, right?


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