# Drivetrain cleaning



## bent_remy (Jul 24, 2011)

What do you guys use to clean your chain, cassette and crankset? (solvents and wipes, brushes ect.)


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

When I clean my bikes I always start with the running gear. I do the chain 1st. I take a rag wet with WD40 or odorless mineral spirits, and wipe the chain down while rotating the cranks. When it's pretty clean I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. I apply it pretty heavily. The OMS will dissolve and float the dirt off the chain, then evaporate and leave the oil as a lubricant. It also thins the oil so that it penetrates the tiny spaces between the rollers. Then, while that's drying I'll do the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. I clean them using the odorless mineral spirits (OMS) without oil. Park's cog cleaning brush is good for doing the cassette. For the chain rings, I just use a rag with OMS sprayed on it and wipe them down while I'm turning the cranks. I do the same to the rear derailleur pulleys and any other parts of the derailleurs or brakes that are grungy. Park's brush is useful here too.

By now the chain is dry enough to wipe down although I like to leave it overnight. I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.

I clean all the drive train about every 300 miles, and immediately after every rain ride.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Alternative method*



Mr. Versatile said:


> When I clean my bikes I always start with the running gear. I do the chain 1st. I take a rag wet with WD40 or odorless mineral spirits, and wipe the chain down while rotating the cranks. When it's pretty clean I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. I apply it pretty heavily. The OMS will dissolve and float the dirt off the chain, then evaporate and leave the oil as a lubricant. It also thins the oil so that it penetrates the tiny spaces between the rollers. Then, while that's drying I'll do the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. I clean them using the odorless mineral spirits (OMS) without oil. Park's cog cleaning brush is good for doing the cassette. For the chain rings, I just use a rag with OMS sprayed on it and wipe them down while I'm turning the cranks. I do the same to the rear derailleur pulleys and any other parts of the derailleurs or brakes that are grungy. Park's brush is useful here too.
> 
> By now the chain is dry enough to wipe down although I like to leave it overnight. I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.
> 
> I clean all the drive train about every 300 miles, and immediately after every rain ride.



Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to remove the chain or the cassette to clean it. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


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## Archangel1183 (Sep 8, 2011)

Wow. I need to clean my drive train correctly. I just spray the whole bike with a hose, wipe it down, and take it for a ride.


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## KINBOY (Oct 8, 2007)

How does the Motor and Mineral work. I have used reg bike lube fore years but use the Mineral spirits for cleaning. May just try it.


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## Straz85 (May 12, 2011)

I use a Park Tools CG-2 chain cleaner with a mixture of Simple Green and water in it every couple hundred miles or after a wet ride. I also use a Park Tools brush to clean the cassette. Sometimes I also take the chain off and let it soak in Simple Green for a bit and clean it really well with the brush. At the same time, I generally also clean the gunk off the RD jockey wheels, chainrings and cassette. After all this, I lube everything really well. I do use bicycle specific lube, I think I have Pedro's dry lube right now. A couple things NOT to do. Do NOT use WD-40 as a lubricant and try to avoid spraying water with a hose directly at any bearings (bottom bracket, headset, hubs, etc). It can get through seals and you'll end up needing to rebuild or replace those parts eventually.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

KINBOY said:


> How does the Motor and Mineral work. I have used reg bike lube fore years but use the Mineral spirits for cleaning. May just try it.


 I've used it for years to good effect. When I put a new chain on my bike it stays there until it's "stretched" enough to throw out. I don't use any of those chain cleaner thingies that you run the chain through, & I never remove the chain to clean it..Home brew is very inexpensive. A quart will last me about a year. I have 2 bikes & split my yearly mileage of about 6,000 miles between. I can usually get 2 years out of a chain, & maybe 5-6 years from a cassette.


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## velocanman (Jul 15, 2011)

For routine chain cleaning, I wipe it down with a dry rag, running the cranks backward through the rag. Then I apply ProLink conservatively, and repeat. I also wipe the chainrings and cassette at the same time.

For deep cleaning (about once a month or two) I remove the chain. I use quick links on all my chains so I can remove it easily. I drop it in a sealed jar of mineral spirirts and soak it for a while. Pull it out and wipe it down and it's like new.

While the chain is off it is easier to wipe down the cassette and chain ring. I also use a brush to get down into the cassette and pull out any gunk. But it doesn't clean it "fresh."

Whenever I remove a wheel I like to take off the cassette and clean each cog individually. I just use a rag and WD40 for that.


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## tihsepa (Nov 27, 2008)

Just a rag and triflow for cleaning. I lube with chain-l. 

Simple green is bad for a chain and those chain cleaner things suck. 

Done this thousands of times on hundreds of bikes. It works fine.


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## smoothie7 (Apr 11, 2011)

I normally run my chain through a Nashbar chain cleaner filled with degreaser and then use pro-lube on it. Hit all other moving parts with tri-flow. I do this about every 200 miles or so.


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## SockToy (Sep 4, 2011)

Usually - soap & water to clean the chain in a Park machine, running it through a rag.
Grip the jockey wheels and run the chain to clean any gunk off them.
Use a rag as 'floss' on the rear cassette.
Dry the chain, a drop of oil/lube on each chain link, then run it round a few times.

Occasionally - Park CM5 cleaning tool filled with cleaning fluid (i.e. Muc Off chain cleaner)
Followed by the above.

Avoid high pressure & WD40.


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## Banks246 (Jul 3, 2011)

The tips here are priceless!!!


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## brianmcg (Oct 12, 2002)

I use some generic degreaser you can get for $5 a gallon. I put some in a spray bottle. 

1. Remove chain. Put chain in shallow pan or bowl with degreaser in it. Let soak and swish around for 30 min. 
2. While chain soaking, remove rear wheel.
3. Spray down cassette with degreaser. Spray down front cranks and derailers also. 
4. Go back to chain and scrub with stiff bristle brush. Dispose of soiled degreaser then repeat. 
5. Remove sparkling clean chain then rinse off with some sudsy water. Dry. 
6. While chain is drying scrub cassette and cranks. Rinse and dry. 
7. Fill small water bottle with wax based lube. Inset chain. Let sit until you finish a six pack and large bag of cheetos.
8. Remove chain. Dry off. Install.
9. After recover from hangover go for ride and marvel at how quiet your drivetrain is.


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## bobzapata (Aug 31, 2011)

Very helpful indeed!


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

I used to maintain a stable of bikes for the police department and made this blog posting to address cleaning bikes. As far as lube, I use a commercial wet lube on bikes ridden on the road and a dry lube if it's ridden off road. The One Speed Biker: How to Wash Your Bike


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

onespeedbiker said:


> I used to maintain a stable of bikes for the police department and made this blog posting to address cleaning bikes. As far as lube, I use a commercial wet lube on bikes ridden on the road and a dry lube if it's ridden off road. The One Speed Biker: How to Wash Your Bike


nice job, that's pretty much exactly how i do it and what products i use. excellent advice about putting the bike on the ground to do up the q/r skewers. we tell people that all the time when they come in w/ the disc brake rubbing...it's so easy when that fixes it.


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## dklimek (Sep 21, 2011)

Wow good post! I need to start cleaning more then I thought!


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## vladvm (May 4, 2010)

spray the drive train with this:









rinse with water

then relube with this:


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## dukesbb37 (Oct 4, 2011)

wow i just learned a ton... already loving this site. I went with the hose, toothbrush and soapy water until now...


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## acetylcholine (Sep 11, 2011)

these forums are invaluable. but that's a lot of cleaning options. 

is the park tool chain cleaner, the big blue plastic thing, worth the $$$ or is the rag and cleaner good enough for a road bike? 

and do we agree that every 2-300 mi is a good interval? 

How about if it sits idle for a couple of weeks or longer when the wx is  ?


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Variables*



acetylcholine said:


> is the park tool chain cleaner, the big blue plastic thing, worth the $$$ or is the rag and cleaner good enough for a road bike?
> 
> and do we agree that every 2-300 mi is a good interval?
> 
> How about if it sits idle for a couple of weeks or longer when the wx is  ?


As noted repeatedly, you don't really need a chain cleaner. Some people like them and others find them pointless. Worth the $$ is a judgement call.

The interval depends hugely on the quality of your clean/lube procedure, the quality of your lube, and your local riding conditions.

There is nothing disappearing when a bike sits unridden so zero miles means zero need for cleaning and lubing. However, I have no idea what "when the wx is  " means.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Kerry Irons said:


> . However, I have no idea what "when the wx is  " means.


When the weather is crappy? If that's what you mean, your bike shouldn't be idle, but it will require more frequent cleaning ;-)


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## Sardo Numspa (Oct 8, 2011)

thanks for the great tips on cleaning. 
any good maintenance tips for massive amounts of dust and sand. im in Cairo and we dont get much rain, but there is sand and dust everywhere. if i clean my bike at least every other week, i start hearing a lot of crunching going on, even in the pedals.


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## IBOHUNT (Oct 10, 2011)

Thanks for the great tips. I am new to cycling (well new since I got a car oh so many decades ago now) and appreciate any advice I can get. I sure wasn't on the 200 - 300 mile plan as I have only cleaned my drivetrain 3 times in the 1400 miles I've had the Tarpon (july 2011)


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## nhluhr (Sep 9, 2010)

I have been wrenching for a long time and at home, I've tried all kinds of things from removing the chain and soaking in various solvents, to a brush and a hose.

I like the clamp-on style cleaners best. I currently use the Park Cyclone with Chainbrite solvent and their brush for scrubbing gunk off. I run the chain through the cyclone a few times then clean the rest with the brush. I rinse with non-pressurized water from a hose. Works great.


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## Oxtox (Aug 16, 2006)

for all the OCD types that want the cleanest chain possible...

put the chain in an ultrasonic bath filled with the solvent of your choice. 

discard solvent, repeat.

you're on your own for getting lubrication back into the internal spaces tho...


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

the 'clamp-on' chain cleaning things seem to be pretty popular w/ home mechanics, guys that haven't worked in a shop and are just doing their own thing. for shop mechanics, the solvent tank is a life saver. for team mechanics, some good brushes, and regular cleaning w/ your solvent/degreaser of choice is the way.
that fact that you're trying to keep it clean and properly lubricated is the most important thing. everyone has their favorite methods/materials...whatever works for you is probably fine. personally, i can't stand the clamp-on chain cleaner. way too much work for mediocre results. i tend to use simple green, or some orange citrus stuff, or sram pitstop degreaser. they all work fine. i also tend to clean my chains way more often than is actually needed, but when you get into a habit...


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## late starter (Apr 23, 2011)

As I am new to this I have read a lot on this and other forums and have talked to a few people about it as well. I have had my bike for a year now and I have come up with the following system that works for me:
My chain has a quick connect link(Connex by Wippermann)
I clean my chain about every 500KM as follows:
Remove chain and soak in a metal bowl of Simple Green
Remove back wheel and remove cassette
Soak cassette in same bowl...
Remove jockey wheels and soak in same bowl...
Remove chain and re-connect and run through a chain cleaner (MEC) held by hand changing cleaner a few times
Once the grit stops coming out the fluid is replaces with soap and water and done until it’s clear...
The cassette and jockey wheels are cleaned by hand and then washed in soap and water and rinsed until the water runs clear
The chain is set on newspaper and put in a 200° oven to drive out the water for 15 minutes
While the chain is cooking I clean the chain rings and whip them dry
Cassette is re-assembled and re-installed on the rear wheel and lube and re-install the jockey wheels
The chain comes out of the oven and gets lubed. I used to use Pedro’s Ice Wax 2.0 but found it picked up too much junk during my rides so I have just switched to Liquid Wrench Industrial Chain Lube as an experiment... so far so good. I sprayed it on the chain (still off the bike) and let it dry. I wiped it down and repeated the procedure all over again. I have put 75KM on the bike so far and it’s quite and grit free. We will have to see how long I can go till I have to re-lube but I’m happy!


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Hard work*



late starter said:


> As I am new to this I have read a lot on this and other forums and have talked to a few people about it as well. I have had my bike for a year now and I have come up with the following system that works for me:
> My chain has a quick connect link(Connex by Wippermann)
> I clean my chain about every 500KM as follows:
> Remove chain and soak in a metal bowl of Simple Green
> ...


You do this ever 500 km? I'm stunned. That is a HUGE amount of work for essentially no benefit. I clean/lube the chain that frequently but without ever removing it from the bike using the procedure I described above. The derailleur pulleys and cassette get the remove/clean/lube treatment every 16,000 km or so.


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## victorscp (Nov 8, 2011)

i was curious if frequent cleaning of the chain wears it down faster?


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## brianmcg (Oct 12, 2002)

victorscp said:


> i was curious if frequent cleaning of the chain wears it down faster?



No. Not cleaning the chain will make it wear down faster.


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## jetvagabond (Aug 10, 2009)

nhluhr said:


> I have been wrenching for a long time and at home, I've tried all kinds of things from removing the chain and soaking in various solvents, to a brush and a hose.
> 
> I like the clamp-on style cleaners best. I currently use the Park Cyclone with Chainbrite solvent and their brush for scrubbing gunk off. I run the chain through the cyclone a few times then clean the rest with the brush. I rinse with non-pressurized water from a hose. Works great.


This is what I do as well. Every ride I'll clean the chain with Prolink and a rag. Once a week it's time to break out the Park cleaner and some Chainbrite. I find that using the rag and lube method only doesn't remove accumulated grit that builds up on the inside of the links. Not removing that stuff allows the chain to "sand down" the cassette and chainrings in my opinion thereby shortening the life span of my drivetrains. I've been using Simple Green and a brush on the cassette while it's still on the wheel. Bad idea? If so, why and what would work better?


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