# Anyone race with a compact crank?



## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

My bike came with a compact crank (50/34), I didn't even know what that was before tonight. I met up for a ride with a couple of locals who are pretty good racers and they commented that the compact crank wouldn't be very good for racing. I did some research tonight on this forum and on the web, and while I at least know what a compact crank is now, I'm confused. It seems like compact cranks are most often used in very hilly or mountainous areas. I'm in the midwest, where we have rolling hills but nothing I would consider much climbing. But it seems that I could achieve the same gear ratio's with my 50/34 and a 11-23 as could be achieved with a standard crank 53/39 and 12-25.

What am I missing here? Is anybody else racing with a compact crank or would I be a "Fred" showing up on the starting line with one?


----------



## silver7 (Oct 26, 2005)

Yes, I have been racing with one for five years. I have never felt under geared and couldn't live without it for hilly races.


----------



## Undecided (Apr 2, 2007)

PixelPaul said:


> My bike came with a compact crank (50/34), I didn't even know what that was before tonight. I met up for a ride with a couple of locals who are pretty good racers and they commented that the compact crank wouldn't be very good for racing. I did some research tonight on this forum and on the web, and while I at least know what a compact crank is now, I'm confused. It seems like compact cranks are most often used in very hilly or mountainous areas. I'm in the midwest, where we have rolling hills but nothing I would consider much climbing. But it seems that I could achieve the same gear ratio's with my 50/34 and a 11-23 as could be achieved with a standard crank 53/39 and 12-25.
> 
> What am I missing here? Is anybody else racing with a compact crank or would I be a "Fred" showing up on the starting line with one?


I'm not in the midwest, but I only use a 53x11 on a couple of courses a year (for relatively long, shallow descents). I don't see why it would be a problem. Maybe you'll be a fred, but if you'll just be starting out, chances are decent you'll be a fred anyway, right?


----------



## zoikz (Sep 5, 2003)

Race it and find out. If you have a problem swap it out.


----------



## PixelPaul (Oct 8, 2004)

Undecided said:


> Maybe you'll be a fred, but if you'll just be starting out, chances are decent you'll be a fred anyway, right?


More than likely, yes.


----------



## rudedog55 (Aug 10, 2009)

yes, raced all last year on a 50/34 with an 11/26 cassette, this year i switched to a 52/36 on the same crank, only cause i needed a little more top end. Goes down hill well, and as a bigger guy, still allows me to climb decently.


----------



## Jay Strongbow (May 8, 2010)

The only thing you are missing is that the "pretty good racers" who told you a compact wouldn't be good for racing are either posers or have no idea what they are talking about or both.


----------



## Sonomasnap (Feb 10, 2010)

I crashed a couple of years ago and bent my big ring. The shop only had a compact big ring which I raced for a few months. Only problem was sprinting. If you never contest sprints you are probably fine.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

If you're an ace sprinter, you _might_ need a 53. A few more RPM in the 50x11 and it's close enough. Keep in Cipo spun a 53x11. We're NOT Cipo. I use a 53/39 on my TT bike and don't find that I'm in the 53x11 all that much.


----------



## OldZaskar (Jul 1, 2009)

It's funny... I think the bigger "fred" is the guy who shows up on a $9,000 bike (53x_) in a team kit... in a Cat5.


----------



## Poncharelli (May 7, 2006)

I'm a Cat 3 masters and race on a Compact 11-25, in the Mountain West.

The only time I feel it's a detriment is on a really high-powered shallow downhill, around 35-40 mph. I have trouble pulling through at such a high RPM. 53-11 would be better. 

But those downhills are so rare, and the high elevation steep climbs just occur too often. One race had 8% pitches at nearly 11,000 feet (i.e. much reduced power). Needed a mountain cassette that day.


----------



## Wookiebiker (Sep 5, 2005)

Considering a 50x11 is a bigger gear than a 53x12 (what most people race on)...you won't suffer on a compact crank. Also, anybody that says you will struggle sprinting with a 50 tooth big ring...isn't a sprinter!!! 

Most sprints even on slight downhills take place in a 53x14, maybe 53x13 and rarely if ever in a 53x11. If it's a flat finish, even strong sprinters rarely get into the 53x13. I know I've got a max power output near 1600 watts, 5 second power of 1423 and can hold near 1000 for 30 seconds...I don't need a 53x11 for any sprint finish and even on fast sprints I'm turning over a 53x13 or 53x14.

A 53x12 at 130 rpm will net you around 45 mph...I don't know many amateur races with flat sprints that hit those speeds...Heck, there are not many pro sprints that hit those speeds until you hit the upper levels of the pro ranks.

Here is what a 50 tooth ring will get you:

120 RPM: 50x11 (43 mph), 50x12 (39 mph), 50x13 (36 mph)

Here is what a 53 tooth ring will get you:

120 RPM: 53x11 (45 mph), 53x12 (41.5 mph), 53x13 (38 mph)

Consider...most sprinting takes place some where between 120-140 rpm, so those numbers are on the low side. If you can hit 45 mph on a flat sprint and you are an amateur racer...you shouldn't be!

Also consider this...With 10 speed drive-trains if you are running an 11x26 cassette an 50 tooth big ring means less movement from your big to small rings during races with lots of rollers. You cross gear a lot...but you don't risk dropping a chain in the middle of a race.

Personally...for the amateur racer...I think a 50x36 with an 11x26 cassette is the best gearing combination possible. You get a big gear and a bail out gear with lots of room between (more than with a 53x39). The only time I'll say this isn't the case is if you are a CAT 1/2 racer...then you might benefit from a 53x39, but even then it's unlikely you would lose a race because of it.

In the past I've run as small as 48x34 with an 11x25 and did just fine...And had the ability to spin the 48x11 into the mid 40mph range which meant I didn't get dropped on the downhills either.

BTW on a side note...About Cippo, on flat races he ran a 55 tooth big ring most of the time


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Wookiebiker said:


> BTW on a side note...About Cippo, on flat races he ran a 55 tooth big ring most of the time


He also hopped off his bike when it wasn't flat. :idea:

I think in the '01 or '02 TdF, he was using a 53. Not sure when the 11t came out. When I ordered my TT bike, I asked about a 54 or 55 and he told me that the only reason people used those so much was because the 11t hadn't been invented yet.


----------



## 32and3cross (Feb 28, 2005)

Sonomasnap said:


> I crashed a couple of years ago and bent my big ring. The shop only had a compact big ring which I raced for a few months. Only problem was sprinting. If you never contest sprints you are probably fine.


The main sprinter on my masters team uses a 50x34 he never has a issue because of gearing.


----------



## chase196126 (Jan 4, 2008)

I think a big part of the question of whether or not a compact is good for racing is what sort of cadences are you most comfortable with? If you tend to be constantly in the 90+ RPM range (and comfortable above 105-110) no matter the speed, a compact should be just fine. If you tend to prefer a bit lower cadence (above 95-100 is not super comfortable) then maybe look into a 52 or 53 big ring. 

Personally I really dislike the sensation of trying to produce power using really high cadence (110-120+) especially downhill. Trying to sprint out of the saddle at 120 RPM would be extremely difficult for me. I can sprint pretty well now, but I usually use a cadence around 100 with more torque. 

Determine what cadence you find most comfortable and go from there! Also, pay attention to the cadences you use when climbing as compared to descending. If you like to spin 110 RPM downhill but push 80 going up, maybe opt for a 36 or 38 inner ring over a 34. 

Note: If you tend to like larger gears, it is important to practice being able to produce power at very high cadences! You (and I) may hate it, but it is an extremely important skill to have for high speed racing.


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

PixelPaul said:


> Is anybody else racing with a compact crank or would I be a "Fred" showing up on the starting line with one?


Years ago I raced with a 48t chainring - not the 50 that the compact has. No-one ever called me a fred - especially the many that I beat. And I could time-trial at 25mph too and never got dropped in a road race because I didn't have a high enough top gear. Who is going to count your chainring teeth on a start line?


----------



## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Sonomasnap said:


> I crashed a couple of years ago and bent my big ring. The shop only had a compact big ring which I raced for a few months. Only problem was sprinting. If you never contest sprints you are probably fine.


you don't need a 53 to contest sprints, trust me. or an 11...or 12...or even 13. i use a 50 or 51 on the track, and usually a 14. bet you a dollar you can't beat me to the line


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> i use a 50 or 51 on the track, and usually a 14. bet you a dollar you can't beat me to the line


What speed can you do on 50/14 on the track? 40mph? On the road I do 35mph on that gear without too much trouble and not even sprinting for the town sign.


----------



## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Mike T. said:


> What speed can you do on 50/14 on the track? 40mph? On the road I do 35mph on that gear without too much trouble and not even sprinting for the town sign.


yeah, probably right about 38-40. 11.9 200, outside. i'll be using a Garmin 500 this year on the track, so that will give a bit better data.


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> i'll be using a Garmin 500 this year on the track,


I'll bet you're going to use its wheel rev sensor instead of GPS eh? I just wonder how GPS would fare on our 138 meter indoor track


----------



## bahueh (May 11, 2004)

your local guys don't know what they're talking about. 
I'm a Cat 3. used a 50/34 for most everything the past few years. Several of my teammates do the same. You'll be fine. Use what you've got. Ignore the noise.


----------



## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Mike T. said:


> I'll bet you're going to use its wheel rev sensor instead of GPS eh? I just wonder how GPS would fare on our 138 meter indoor track


yep, i've got the speed/cadence sensor on. 138m? those would be some awfully small ovals! it looks pretty funny when you look at the GPS track, big ovals for the track, small circles for the warm up area.


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

cxwrench said:


> 138m? those would be some awfully small ovals!


8 to 12 second laps. That's no more than 2-3 seconds going in any one direction. It makes for a busy workout.


----------



## JC650 (Feb 8, 2012)

Not trying to hi jack the thread but whats a "fred" ? Ive seen this posted in threads a couple times recently. I have an idea that its not something one would want to be. I sure hope Im not one!!!!


----------



## Mike T. (Feb 3, 2004)

JC650 said:


> Not trying to hi jack the thread but whats a "fred" ? Ive seen this posted in threads a couple times recently. I have an idea that its not something one would want to be. I sure hope Im not one!!!!


Here's Fred -


----------



## JonF (Apr 7, 2012)

I have never felt the need for anything larger than 50 x 13.


----------

