# CrossCheck SS conversion & components - help!



## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

Currently I've got a Cross Check complete bike that I use for commuting. Over the next month I'm going to be building a new rear wheel (something new to me), and after reading through the opinions on this forum, I've chosen to build up a single speed wheel. So far all I've picked out a flip flop fixed/free rear Surly hub (32h/135mm) but I'm slowly realizing the amount of things that are going to need to be changed on my bike if I really want to turn it into a single speed. While it's mostly just removing stuff, I thought I'd get some opinions.

My main concern is durability, because I'm using it to get to work and back, but other than that I don't have a whole lot in mind.

As far as a crank set, the FSA cranks on the bike are pretty flexy, while seated I can cause the chain to push up against the side of the front der. So other than wanting something stiffer, I don't really know what to look for. I need a pretty low gear ratio if I'm actually going to commute on this bike, and judging from the gears I use the most on the bike currently.

It appears that Surly makes nearly everything I would need to make the transition, but I don't want to make a decision about all this with out first considering other opinions on this forum. So any thoughts or tips would be a great help, thanks!


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

I've got a Surly like you're planning on building and have a Sugino crank with a 42t front chainring. My fixed gear is a 14t and the freewheel side is a 17t. I haven't tried to flip to the fixed side since I put the 17t on for some CX racing, so I don't know if the chain is going to be too long when I do (it's likely, though). I haven't noticed any flexing, and between riding on & off road, I have definitely put some torque through it 

I've been experimenting with various ACS Claws freewheels, which are cheap, but not incredibly awesome (the 17 is pretty crunchy feeling). Once I figure out which size I like best, I'm going to get something nicer. 

Oh yeah, and I've got Tektro brakes. They've also worked well so far.


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## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

I've also got some Tektro brakes on mine, came on the complete bike. They seemed to be working fine, but now it's already winter here, so my rims are icing up. I guess there's not a whole lot I can do about that, but it's part of the reason I want to try a fixed gear bike. I'll check out the Sugino website, thanks for the input.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

ShadowsCast said:


> As far as a crank set, the FSA cranks on the bike are pretty flexy, while seated I can cause the chain to push up against the side of the front der. So other than wanting something stiffer, I don't really know what to look for. I need a pretty low gear ratio if I'm actually going to commute on this bike, and judging from the gears I use the most on the bike currently.
> 
> !



There is a very good chance it's not crankset flex.. The ring is probably warped...or the ring is flexing.. The only reason I bring it up is don't spend money you don't need to if you are getting rubbing.....


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## SSSasky (Apr 8, 2004)

I second what Dave Hickey said. I think it's highly unlikely the cranks are that flexible, unless they are actually defective. Try a new, unramped chainring. WIth that and a rear wheel, there's not much else you need for a simple conversion.

If you have brifter brake levers, it's probably worth the money to get a basic pair of levers, but that shouldn't run you much over $20. Other than that, unless you are drastically changing the cockpit, there's not much else you could need.

Andrea138: those look like the new 2009 dropouts. Are they? How do they look in person? There was some concern over on MTBR that the new dropouts were not as nice...


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## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

At the risk of completely revealing my lack of knowledge, I didn't realize there was a difference. I just sort of figured the whole thing was one unit once it was all bolted together. Surly makes an unramped chainring, I suppose I'll look into that.


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## Andrea138 (Mar 10, 2008)

SSSasky said:


> Andrea138: those look like the new 2009 dropouts. Are they? How do they look in person? There was some concern over on MTBR that the new dropouts were not as nice...


I'm guessing they are... I don't have anything to compare to, so I can't help much but to say they've worked fine and I think they look like, ummm... dropouts.


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## racerdave (Dec 1, 2007)

FWIW, I love the Surly unramped chainrings. You will, however, need to use a 1/8 chain with them. 3/32nd will not wrap well. (at least it didn't for the 32 and 36 chainrings on my 29er)


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

ShadowsCast said:


> At the risk of completely revealing my lack of knowledge, I didn't realize there was a difference. I just sort of figured the whole thing was one unit once it was all bolted together. Surly makes an unramped chainring, I suppose I'll look into that.


Just get any unramped SS/FG ring on ebay or get a Sugino Messanger


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

I just finished a fixed CrossCheck last week, photos pending.

Surly chain rings are great, they are steel and will last longer than aluminum and has no ramps, but is $$$. Spot makes an unramped ring as well as any other number of SS parts companies. I went with a Surly (42t) because I had the extra cash and it works just fine with a 3/32 SRAM 8-speed chain.

Keep your crank, just replace the rings with a single ring and a cyclocross bash guard or just leave the other ring on there.

Out back all you need is a new rear wheel, a Surly 130mm worked fine for me. The stays are 132.5 so they flex either way, 130 or 135. There is plenty of room in the dropouts for adjustment, no chain tensioner needed. You can also look for one of the cheap Formula sets that come in 120 and respace to 130 but the quality of the build is all over the place. If durability is a concern have it built locally by a shop you can trust build a nice wheel.

In summary all you probably need is:
1. New chain ring.
2. New hub, spokes (rim if you don't want to take apart your geared wheel)
3. SS Freewheel
4. Start with a new chain as well.


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## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

Cool, I guess that's less than I was thinking. Like I said I'm building a new rear wheel right now, on a Surly rear hub. I just thought I needed new cranks, and with that perhaps a new bottom bracket, but it's kind of a relief to know I don't really have to worry about that. On the Surly website it looks like some of their smaller chain rings only work with the larger chains, but I'm not really sure. I suppose I should take some before and after photos.


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

Actually on further review you might need another bottom bracket.

The 135mm hub is designed for SS mtb frames which usually have a chainline around 52mm. Road double chainlines are 41-ish and 46 for inner/outer so you'll be around 6 mm off depending on which freewheel you use even with the chainring in the outer position on the crank.

The 130mm hub is really a 120mm hub with two 5mm spaces, one on each side. Its chainline is 42mm, the track standard, and easier to dial in on a road crank.


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## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

So if I had the 130mm rear hub I would have an easier time? What would be the alternative? Getting a wider BB? I didn't realize they came in too many widths... I suppose I would need a mountain bike BB then... I picked the 135mm hub because that's what the complete bike came with, if that matters any.


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## racerdave (Dec 1, 2007)

As far as the Surly rings, as asterisk said, it's fine with the larger rings. I first had the 3/32 8-speed chain on the 36 ring and never noticed anything funny. It was only when I got to the 32 tooth ring did it not wrap well. Then I looked closed at how it wrapped the 36 and it wasn't perfect, but I never noticed when riding it. The teeth are so tall that it masked the problem.

But at the same time, that's the beauty of the Surly rings for SS use... they're very tolerant of chain tension issues, etc. I still think the 1/8 is the way to go, but that's just me.

As far as your crank, you never mentioned before which FSA model you have and which BB you have. Do you happen to know? This will help, because that will determine what/if you can change small parts in your setup (like spacers in an external bearing system) or need a new BB, etc to get the chainline you need.

As far as hub, I'm not sure it's that crucial to go with 130 or 135. Some may know better than I, but there are other things you can do with the front ring (mount it on the inside of the spider, on the outside, use small spacers) to get what you need. There are options that don't have to cost you much more $$.


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## ShadowsCast (Oct 16, 2008)

The bottom bracket is the Shimano Deore LX, #BB-UN54, 68x113mm according to the Surly site, and the crank set has rubbed off the crank arms, but it still says FSA on the arm, and on the website it says Andel for the model, and "Forged arms, Silver aluminum, granny ring compatible. 110mm BCD rings, 36 & 48t, ramped and pinned, Black" for the description. I guess that answers the question about which "BCD" my rings need to be.


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## asterisk (Oct 21, 2003)

If you haven't built up the hub I'd ebay the hub and buy a 130mm to avoid having to adjust your crank to match the chainline of the 135mm hub.

Read through Sheldon Brown's chainline page to get an idea of what you are dealing with. It explains finding rear chainline, front chainline, etc... just make sure to read/skim the whole page as it has charts that help you find chainline measurements for certain hub/freewheel combos.


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## cyklopath (Feb 24, 2007)

Interesting to me that the frame has 'Gnot-rite' spacing to allow running either width hub........


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## Howzitbroke (Jun 1, 2005)

Get a 135 hub, Surly is great even compared to Paul or Phil, certainly considering the price. 42 for the front chainring is usually a good starting point, with 17 or 18 for the rear freewheel. From there get the feel of what exactly you will need. then get an ENO. They simply rule. What is the BCD of your crank, most road are 130mm, compact road are 110 which is better of SS options. If you have 110 look for BMX 110 rings on Ebay, you can get nice FMF rings for $12. My favorite chain is the KMC Z 610 HX, or dropbuster. HEAVY duty and cheap. Kool chains are good too.


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