# Campy ultra torque bb/crank noise



## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

Just when I mastered silencing every other kind of bottom bracket, I installed a new Campy Ultra Torque bb/crank a few months ago and I can't get rid of a tick. This is on a Bianchi 928 Carbon SL (English thread).

It sounds like a TICK-TICK.....................TICK-TICK.....................TICK-TICK... making the noises once each crank revolution.

It does it standing or sitting. I think I've ruled out other usual causes, like seatposts, saddles, headsets, etc. Does not do it at very light pedal pressures, and not coasting.

At first it made the noise as only 1 distinct TICK each revolution, and then only when I pressed hard on the right pedal. I installed it originally according to the instructions (http://www.campagnolo.com/pdf/7225306_ULTRA_TORQUE_Crankset_UK.pdf) (even torque), but when I could not get the noise to go away after tightening everything, I removed and greased, no success, then removed and applied teflon tape to cup threads, and removed and greased all the chainring bolts and where the rings meet the spider. Now it's actually worse.

The instructions describe an alternate method of install using Loctite 222; anyone tried that or think that it would make a difference?

Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## TACSTS (Feb 4, 2004)

What about pedals? I've got Keo's on a 7800 crank and a 07 Centaur UT crank and they both work loose and start that annoying ticking sound fairly consistently. I'm using teflon tape on them now, thinking about loc-tite. 

What about your QR's? Are they tight enough? I've seen noise from that too. 

I just wonder if it's not something odd, I've not heard anything about noise for UT cranks, although maybe it's a little early. I'm hoping it's not the case although I kind of wondered about it when I put mine on. Seems like that wave washer would allow a little movement under high pedalling torque. 

Good luck in finding the source. Nothing drives me crazier than a noisy bike.


----------



## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Clicking out*

It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from the BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, and torque it to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), crank bolts (grease threads and washers), the chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms), a stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain, the pedals (grease the threads, get some wax etc. on the cleats, grease the bolts into your shoes, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible), the chain (clean and lube), shoes/cleats (loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals), your seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body), your bars and stem (grease the stem, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem, steerer tube spacers if threadless), replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble), the nuts on threaded Presta valve stems (throw the nut away), reed switches in computer pickups, the front derailleur cable hitting the crank, and your wheels (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross, grease/tighten QRs, tighten cassette lock ring, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim). Needless to say, you want to try these things in what seems like the most likely place the noise is coming from, but there are plenty of stories about "I was sure the noise was in the handlebars but it went away when I tightened up the spokes in the rear wheel," so keep trying different things until you have success.


----------



## rePhil (Jun 20, 2002)

*I had a click.....*

That drove me nuts. I swore it was coming from the BB. Clicking noise about once a rotation of the cranks, most noticeable under load. By accident I discovered it was the rear skewer / dropout interface. 
Kerry has everything covered. My advice would be to try one thing at a time to find the culprit.


----------



## Summit_Rider (Aug 29, 2006)

*Campy UT Crank Noise:*

Kerry Irons has a comprehensive list for tracking down clicking noises.

I think I have covered all the sources he has mentioned.... Here's my clicking issue -that I also posted under another thread in Componants/Wrenching :

Campy Compact UT Crank Noise: 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a Cervelo R3 with a Campy Compact UT crank suffers from the same problem... a soft clicking sound almost like your knuckle cracking under medium pedal pressure on every right pedal stroke. I'm pretty certain it is in the crank. The interesting thing is when I start my ride I hear the sound for the first 10-12 miles/ 1,000' climbing then it fades away by the end of a 30 mile/ 3,000' ride the sound has mostly gone away...? I removed the crank, pulled all the crank bolts, greased the lips of the bolts and put Ti-Prep on the mating surfaces of the chainrings between trhe crank and chainrings and threads of the crank bolts and greased the UT joint - and the sound went away for 1 ride ( I've done this 2 times and both times the sound went away only to come back...). The sound is there standing or sitting ( not the seat or post), on the small or big chainring, and in all of the 10 speed cassetts. I have swaped out pedals, and wheels. The chain is a Campy 10 speed, but since the sound is always at the top of the pedal stroke on the right ( chainring) side in any gear so it's not the 10sp-Conex link or the chain. The drive train and bike and drivetrain are about 3 months old / 2,000+ miles... I think the sound is coming from the right crank arm where the big chainring mounts onto the carbon fiber crank, or the spacer between the big and small chaing rings. The only time I have been able to eliminate the sound is when I have removed and relubed/TiPre'd this chainring + bolt. Obviously this is not an isolated issue, since serveral others here are having a simular clicking problem with Campy UT cranks... I waited to put up a post hoping I would come up with a solution and be able to post it...

Any Campy experts out there that have this UT crank cracking sound issue solved please post the solution ....


----------



## starphoto (Jul 27, 2007)

I installed a UT compact crank in May and followed the instructions including all the torque specs and have put on about 3K miles with no noises. My guess is the seating of the bearing in the cups. They must fit precisely into the cups with little to no clearance. The torque and face spacing of the BB should be checked and verified to be within tolerance. Also be sure to clean any paint off from the seat face of the BB. Where the Outboud cups torque against. The installation, preload and torque of a UT campy BB beomes one system. It's a little different than the traditional BB assy. So far I am thrilled with this design from campy.


----------



## LookDave (Sep 29, 2007)

Had same issue with Centaur UT crank and bearing cups (I thought). Disassembled/greased/reassembled the bearing cups/crank assembly, didn't help. Took off Look Keo pedals, greased pedal bearings, reinstalled. Helped a good bit, didn't eliminate the click completely but lots better. Replaced Keos with Speedplays (for unrelated reason - wanted to go back to the Speedplay float, which I like for my knees) - click eliminated.

As others have said, these things can be maddening to track down...


----------



## rellimreeb (Jul 29, 2007)

I had a creak I was convinced was the BB, but eventually traced it to my seat rails. 

not sure what material your frame is constructed from, but carbon seems to reverberate w/ creeks, making it really hard to figure out where they originate.


----------



## jimcav (Jun 15, 2003)

*embarrassing to say, and not likely your cause*

but when i 1st did the UT crank i had an annoying tick on the rt--turned out i had not seated the retaining clip on the drive side completely, and it was rubbing the crank arm

good luck
jim


----------



## Summit_Rider (Aug 29, 2006)

jimcav said:


> but when i 1st did the UT crank i had an annoying tick on the rt--turned out i had not seated the retaining clip on the drive side completely, and it was rubbing the crank arm
> 
> good luck
> jim



Thanks Jim,

That is a possibility that no one else has mentioned, however the retaining clip is properly seated and is not the issue in my case. I appreciate your comment.


----------



## jimcav (Jun 15, 2003)

*my only other thought is the shoe/cleat*



Summit_Rider said:


> Thanks Jim,
> 
> That is a possibility that no one else has mentioned, however the retaining clip is properly seated and is not the issue in my case. I appreciate your comment.


can you ride a bit with just running shoes and see if it still ticks?
or if that is unsafe stick on a platform pedal
jim


----------



## Summit_Rider (Aug 29, 2006)

jimcav said:


> can you ride a bit with just running shoes and see if it still ticks?
> or if that is unsafe stick on a platform pedal
> jim


Hi Jim,

It may not have been clear in my original post, but I have swapped out to a different type of pedals (KEO Vs./ Speedplay) that use a different shoe/cleat - made no differance. 

I've pretty much have isolated the sound to the chainrings/ right crankarm - the sound went away twice after completely greasing + Ti- Prep'ing these surfaces... only to return after a second ride. It is still there but is less noticeable at times - it seems to be louder at the start of a ride and the quiet down as the parts seat themselves...? 

I'm still hoping someone will come up with an absolute solution.


----------



## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*bad bearings?*

Here's a possibility that we might not expect.

I have a Record Ultra Torque on my Bianchi 928 SL. Installed it in January, and probably have only around 2000 miles on that bike (cuz I have 11). I frequently get a tick in the bb area that comes and goes.

Last weekend, I have the bike up on the stand and was spinning the cranks. I noticed a little binding up, which is very odd. So, I removed that cranks. When I looked at the bearings (recall that the bearings are attached to the cranks, not located in the bb like everyone else), I saw little bits of metal sticking out. For some odd reason, the little metal strips (ball retainers/separators?) have disintegrated. There were metal bits everywhere in both sides of the bearings. I figured the bearings were trashed, but wanted to ride this bike before it could get fixed, so I got some fine needle nosed pliers and pulled out all the metal bits. Must have been in at least 10 pieces on each side. All the metal bits are out, but then the balls all tend to bunch up on one side of the bearing. I packed them with grease and reassembled. The cranks now spin very easily and silently, but I was too chicken (er, cautious) to ride it that way. So, may want to check that.

I have no idea what could have caused this. The bike has never been rained on or pressure washed. There was still grease in the bearings, anyway. It has not been abused. 

The main bolt was torqued correctly, but in any event I don't know how that could matter. The half shafts are either mated or not. 

Ran this by an LBS, and they are clueless what could have happened. In any event, they are obtaining some ceramic bearing replacements (may as well). Too bad this is not a consumer maintenance operation, or I'd do it myself. I don't even know what tools would be necessary to pull these bearings and press them back in. 

Any thoughts on this prospect?


----------



## Summit_Rider (Aug 29, 2006)

Fixed said:


> Here's a possibility that we might not expect.
> 
> I have a Record Ultra Torque on my Bianchi 928 SL. Installed it in January, and probably have only around 2000 miles on that bike (cuz I have 11). I frequently get a tick in the bb area that comes and goes.
> 
> ...


Thanks Fixed-

That is somethig new I haven't heard of with Campy UT cranks... 

It still doesn't explain why my sound goes away after greasing / Ti Prep the chainrings/ crankarm. The second time I did it, I did not remove the crankarm from the BB - to eliminate the BB + bearings - the sound went away and came back the next ride. I will check the retainers on the BB bearings for metal chips. I haven't noticed any binding in the cranks - even when spinning W/O the chain... Thanks for your input.


----------



## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*tools..*

To remove the bearings, a 2-jaw puller similar to this is needed. 

http://www.toolking.com/performancetools_w139.aspx

To install the new bearings, any piece of tubing large enough to go over the spindle and contact only the inner bearing race is needed - something like a crown race setter. If the bearing ID is 25mm, then ordinary 1-inch copper tube may work to install the bearings. Before steering tubes changed to 1-1/8", I always used copper tubing to install crown races.


----------



## boon (Dec 14, 2005)

i'm glad i came across this thread. i recently had a bike built with Campy Centaur 07 groupset (2 weeks old) and have experienced the same problem - ticking sound per revolution when the drive side crank moves from the top of the pedal stroke to the bottom. no ticking sound when coasting. i have eliminated the chain/cage clearance, saddle, pedal and QR. the ticking noise is definitely coming from the BB area. i will have to investigate the bearing as suggested by Fixed.


----------



## capt_phun (Jun 14, 2004)

I had a click in my UT chorus cranks that was at one specific spot per crank revolution. I pulled the bottom bracket, cleaned the bearings, and reinstalled the cups as per the new Campy .pdf using loctite 222. Silent ever since  The loctite 222 can be found on ebay way cheaper than anywhere else I could locate it.


----------



## bianchijim (May 12, 2008)

*Same problem - Bianchi 928 SL Record ticking*

I have a brand new 2008 Bianchi 928 SL with 2008 Record Compact UT and it too is making a periodic tikcing noise. Not every revolution but it is driving me nuts. Did you end up finding any resolution to your problem? Thanks


----------



## Dinosaur (Jan 29, 2004)

I had the same problem....after almost 5K it's gone away...


----------



## Fixed (May 12, 2005)

*switched*



bianchijim said:


> I have a brand new 2008 Bianchi 928 SL with 2008 Record Compact UT and it too is making a periodic tikcing noise. Not every revolution but it is driving me nuts. Did you end up finding any resolution to your problem? Thanks


Installed an SRM with an FSA crank/bb. No noise now.

Did discover that the bearings on the Record Ultratorque were shot, in that the metal ball separators had broken down into little pieces, so badly that it was binding up. I pulled out all the little pieces, and now it's smooth, but the ball bunch up on one side. Have not used it since. Plan to replace the bearings with aftermarket ceramic (which I'm betting won't cost much more than Campy replacements), but have not gotten around to it.


----------



## chasingpixels (Jul 16, 2007)

Another data point. I just recently replaced the bearings in my Record UT cranks after approximately 3500 miles. Far from the longevity you'd expect from the system. What began as an intermittent noise progressed to obvious metal on metal contact on the drive side.

For those that need to know, the bearing designation is 6805. Normally these bearings are 25 x 37 x 7 mm, but it seems the "thin" variant, 25 x 37 x 6 mm is preferred for the Ultra Torque application. VXB Bearings carries a hybrid model that I settled on for $49.00 each.

A few hundred miles since the replacement, things are running smoothly and quietly. I do wonder if there was a problem with a batch of OEM bearings.


----------



## fabsroman (Jul 14, 2006)

Fixed,

I had the exact same problem as you, but it was only to the drive side bearing and it was completely destroyed. Unlike you, I only had 4 bikes at the time. LOL I had about 2,000 miles on the Cristallo when I noticed that the crank didn't spin every easily on the stand sans the chain. I ended up replacing the bearings myself and bought a pair of Boca ceramics at around $110 to do the job, but Enduro now offers ceramic bearings for the UT crank at around $50 a pair. Cbike sells the tool to pull the bearings off, and then I used a Park crown race tool to seat the new bearings back on the crank. Campy actually recommends that the crank bearings be serviced every 2,500 miles, so I took all of my cranks off this winter, pulled all of the bearings off, and cleaned and greased them.

By the way, the ceramic bearings from Boca and Enduro both have full seals on both sides of the bearing. I think the Campy bearings only have a seal on the inner side of the bearing, and even then, it isn't that good.

Send me a PM if you have any questions, or need some pictures of the tools I used.


----------



## chasingpixels (Jul 16, 2007)

I also used the cbike tool to remove the bearings... it worked as advertised. The VBX bearings I put in have seals both sides. I hadn't seen the Campy recommendation to service the bearings every 2500 miles. I'll add that to the regular service routine, thanks fabsroman.


----------



## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

This old thread coming back from its deep sleep is timely. My UltraTorque cranks are making a knocking sound like the bearings are going bad. I've narrowed it down to the drivetrain/frame as it makes the sound only under high torque situations (leaving a stoplight or sprinting). It makes the noise whether I'm on the saddle or standing (eliminating the saddle/seatpost). I've tried replacing the rear wheel and I know the chain is not rubbing. I'm going to try my buddy's crank set next. I have about 2000 miles on my bearings and it used to make a tick sound when pedaling once every revolution.

The bearings, when I took the cranks apart to inspect/lube them have the seals against the crank arms. This makes sense to me as the inside of the bearings face into a rubber seal that is there to keep the grease in and dirt out while the side facing the crank arms has an external seal that will probably allow some dirt to enter the bearings. I did pack the bottom bracket cups with grease before putting it all back together and the noise diminished but it did not go entirely away.


----------



## Squidward (Dec 18, 2005)

My bottom bracket bearings are fine. Turns out that the chain is worn out and stretched.


----------



## miso (Aug 17, 2006)

I, too, have been experiencing the knocking from my chorus UT crankset. It's not the ticking you get from pedal spindles that don't have enough grease, but a deeper sound coming after each right pedal stroke, especially when climbing out of the saddle. Near the end of the ride it would get pretty annoying.

I pulled the cranks and cleaned and re-greased the bearings, and did the same with cups and spindle before tightening it all down to spec. I noticed the metal retaining rings when I was cleaning the bearings but they didn't seem to be damaged. 

The knocking was gone the following ride, but I noticed it came back just a little when I would stand up on a long climb. 

Regrettably, I didn't have the bottom bracket shell faced before I installed the cranks, so that may be a big reason I'm hearing the knocking sound. I'm thinking of ordering some new bearings from one of the online vendors (Campy UT replacement bearings can be ordered for a little over $30, and I think these, unlike the ones I have, come with a rubber seal to keep out the gunk). This time I'll have the bottom bracket faced and hopefully that will take care of the knocking sound for a while.


----------



## RogueMechanic (Mar 6, 2007)

*Ultra Torque Problem....Uncovered?*

Hello All,

I hope that this message finds everyone well.
To all who have been having issues with their Campy Ultra Torque crankset/bottom bracket system, you might find this interesting...

http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/roguemechanic/2008/09/campagnolo-ul-1.html

Let me know what you think and if you have any questions. 

Thanks!

John

www.roguemechanic.com


----------



## UncleLar (Jun 29, 2009)

*Campy UT and Modern Crank Bearings*

All,

The Campy UT crank is not really a good design in my opinion. I destroyed a set of the stock bearings in approx 1000 miles. I live in a dry climate. I spent the $$$ for the Campy ceramic bearings and now they tick at the 12 O'clock position after approx 500 miles. I have pulled them apart and greased everything. I correctly torqued. I am interested in the spacers mentioned by Roguemechanic. I have tried everything that is in the above posts except the spacers. Isn't this a bit much for the cost of Campy UT cranks?

After spending a bunch of money on cranks (Shimano 7800, Stronglight Fusion, SRAM Force, and now Campy Record UT) in the last five years I have come to the following conclusion. The problem is the bearings are to small and brand does not matter. In the case of Campy UT there are too few ball bearings also. 

I have pulverized every set of crank bearings at around the 2000 miles in the last five years. Approx 12 sets. I originally cleaned/repacked but this did not solve the problem as they are not made to be serviced. This was on two different Shimano 7800 cranks. The final solution for Dura-Ace was Phil Wood bearings. Now, no problems. I had the same problem with a SRAM Force. The bearings died a pasty death after approximately 2000 miles. Lets not talk about Stronglights. Now the Campy UT Record that replaced the Stronglight is giving bearing problems.

For those that care I am 6'1" 200 lbs and race about 35 races a year. I ride approx 7000 hard miles per year and the two bikes are very nicely equipped with good maintenance. You know what? I will put the Campy UT cranks on eBay and eleminate the problem through brut cash. I suspect one of those little climber dudes can use them.


----------



## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

UncleLar said:


> All,
> 
> The Campy UT crank is not really a good design in my opinion. I destroyed a set of the stock bearings in approx 1000 miles. I live in a dry climate. I spent the $$$ for the Campy ceramic bearings and now they tick at the 12 O'clock position after approx 500 miles. I have pulled them apart and greased everything. I correctly torqued. I am interested in the spacers mentioned by Roguemechanic. I have tried everything that is in the above posts except the spacers. Isn't this a bit much for the cost of Campy UT cranks?
> 
> ...


Pros are not having the problems that you are experiencing. Something is wrong here and my guess is that it might be specific to you.


----------



## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*thoughts...*

Rogue Mechanic's ideas are totally wrong. I wrote a lengthy post on the subject, revealing the many flaws in his ideas. I've got the UT crank on three bikes and never had a problem with any of them.

If the BB width is correct, there should never be any need for shims, anywhere. Have you have verified that the BB shell is 67.2-68.8mm in width and also know that the shell is properly faced?

You mention trashing many sets of BB bearings, with other crank designs, yet want to point the blame at the UT design. From your post, it would seem that all brands have a poor design that is prone to failure, not just the UT.

If the other bearings that you trashed were all installed on the same frame, there is a chance that the threads in the BB shell are out of alignment and the problem will never go away. The misaligment of BB shell threads can not be corrected. 

You might want to try the new Super Record CULT bearings. They cost about $150 at totalcycling.


----------



## UncleLar (Jun 29, 2009)

Raymonda could be right that the problems are specific to me. My local bike shop would concur. Many of my friends do not have problems either. Most of them are not my size, or do not ride that hard, or as much. The pros are rarely my size. If the pros were my size the fields would be slower and more ponderous. 

I stick by my assertion that the stock bearings are too small and too few in the Campy Record UT (and others). I have no real technical knowledge to back my assertions up other than a pile of trashed bearings. I doubt that the frames I have been using are the issue as they come from top manufacturers. I think I have been installing the BB correctly per the included instructions. I have not calibrated my torque wrench, but it is a pretty good one.

I don't want to hi-jack this post, but I too have had problems with all the Campy bearings in my Record UT ticking, clicking, and sticking. Overhaul does not cure the ticking once it starts. I am in the process of testing the Campy ceramics two year warranty.


----------



## UncleLar (Jun 29, 2009)

C-40, I trade frames every year. I do assert that the outboard bearing design does not work well for me, but the cranks are so sexy how can I resist? I destroy outboard bearings in general and I think the Campy design in particular is worse for me. I am glad that the design works well for others. The new Super Record ceramics will not fit on my 2008 Record UT according to the shop that installed them but official Campy ceramics are on my crank.


----------



## raymonda (Jan 31, 2007)

200lbs is really not an issue, it is the amount of pressure or torque you can apply to the pedals. Do you really think you are pushing the pedals harder than to worlds strongest and best professionals? I doubt it, or you would be getting paid hansomely for your efforts.

Something else is wrong. Let me know when you find out. But, as you said, you had no problems with DA, why are you just using them?


----------



## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*info...*

Your shop doesn't know much about Campy if they think that CULT bearings can't be installed on any UT crank. There's nothing unique about the SR crank.

If you're not doing these installs, then you have to trust the shop to measure the BB shell width, which is critical, and face the BB shell, if needed. I never use loctite, only grease on the threads and always torque the cups to 35Nm.

I also apply grease to the cup ID and bearing OD, so all metal to metal contact areas are lubed.


----------



## Keith (May 18, 2004)

*Re: Campy UT Crankset ticking*

I have been using the UT cranksets since they first come on the market.

I was using a Record 10-speed, and never had any noises - flawless.

However, soon after changing out to 11-Speed Super Record and about a 1,000 miles into using them, it too developed a 12 o'clock ticking. I like to think that I'm a solid mechanic, so I read a lot of postings and thought about this for a while.

To make sure it wasn't a noise being generated elsewhere I changed out pedals, seat post and saddle and still it was there, and rechecked all bolts on stem, handlebars and water bottles bosses . I had used the Loctite and checked the cups - which were well and truly solid! Ticking still there.

As an experiment I had a spare wave washer - pulled everything apart (again) and installed the 2nd wave washer (that's the non-drive side) along with a little grease packing. Ticking gone...

That's several hundred miles ago and the tick has not come back.

Now I find it strange to go from one crankset to another which is more or less the same, with design and same frame. How or why one wave washer should make a difference still leaves me puzzled - but I'm puzzling in silence. I believe the pro's whack in another wave washer, grease, torque and walk away .....???

I hope this helps

Keith


----------



## C-40 (Feb 4, 2004)

*thoughts...*

Even the CULT bearings require lubrication (with oil) to remain silent. Campy says they can be run dry, but will be noisy. Cult bearings could certainly be greased, also.

Adding a second wave washer is a BAD idea. If the BB width is correct, the single washer will apply a bearing preload somewhere in the 20-60 pound range, depending on the exact BB width. Adding a second washer would greatly increase the preload. If the BB is too narrow, a shim should be placed under the left side cup to bring it into spec.

I always grease the inside of the cups and the OD of the bearings.

I would NEVER use the loctite 222 method that suggests "hand tightening" the cups. Unless the factory applied thread locker is removed, the cups can't be hand tightened and the loctite will not function unless both the BB shell and cup threads are totally clean and dry when the loctite is applied.

I just grease the cups and BB shell threads and torque the cups to 35Nm. It is critical that the BB shell be the correct width and the faces square to the threads. If either of these was not verified, that may be the cause of your problem.

Whenever I get a ticking noise, I first lube the chainring mounting areas with a penetrating lube, like WD-40 or any other brand of your choice. If this doesn't stop the tick, I've twice found the real problem to be a rear skewer that needed some penetrating lube and a tighter setting.


----------



## dpeka (Aug 8, 2009)

*It was the cassette.*

Guys - Just wanted to add my own experience. I too was getting that knocking sound with my Campy Compact UT. Turns out, the rear cassette wasnt tight enough. I was able to narrow it down by taking the chain off and spinning - no sound. Took the rear wheel out, put the cassette lock tool in - sure enough, went 1 1/4 rounds tighter without even applying much force. No noise now! :thumbsup:


----------

