# Flats, flats, and more flats --- incredibly frustrating



## lblando (Sep 9, 2013)

Hello, this is my first post here. I am not a cycling expert, and thus I am hoping you can help me figure out a solution to my problem. 

First, some context. I recently bought a road bike, which I intend to use for two purposes: (1) commuting to work 3-5 times a week, and (2) weekend rides with friends. I don't plan on racing, or competing in any way. This is what I've ridden so far Luis Blando's Profile - View Their Bike Rides. While not an expert, I do know how to ride a bike, and I like the idea of the freedom it brings you. I ride on the bike lanes, in San Jose (CA), as well as on paved biked paths. Nothing different, nothing unique, same as many of you I am sure, and yet....

Second, the problem. In a word, flats. I have been getting so many flats, so frequently, that it has seriously made me want to throw in the towel. In particular because I do commute to work and I have already had missed meetings, etc. 

Third, details. Well, I *think* I am doing things right (e.g. changing the tubes with as much finesse as I can muster, checking pressure before every ride, making sure the tubes are up to 110psi at least, not riding too close to the curb, where the rocks/debris accumulates, "going light" on the rough patches to minimize the risk of pinches, etc). I even swapped the Hutchinson Equinox 23mm tires that came with my bike for 25mm Gatorskins in hopes that that would fix it. Such is the level of frustration I have reached that I even made an embarrassing YouTube video of me changing a tube to see if I am actually doing it right  Changing bike tube - YouTube

Fourth, the problem appears to be pinch flats/snake bite flats, as I have yet to encounter one nail/thorn/glass piece stuck in my tire. I have had tons of flats, as you can see here: Flats Collection - a set on Flickr and all but one of them have been in the back tire. 

Fifth, one afternoon I collected all the punctured tubes and decided to fix them all. I did so and pumped them all to twice their volume (give or take). Checked them all to make sure no air was leaking (using a bucket of water). Everything fine. Left them hanging overnight. The next morning, about half of them had deflated substantially and only a few of them were as I'd left them. Is that normal? I mean, it is normal for a tube to deflate *a little* but not overnight, right? 

Finally, I have resisted going with the "puncture resistant tubes" such as this one (http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Resistant-Bicycle-Presta-27-Inch/dp/B002K2KULA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1378750511&sr=8-5&keywords=thorn+resistant+tubes+700c) because the rolling resistance (already increased by the Gatorskins) would be even worse, and honestly I don't know if the tube would help. As a matter of fact, after reading about the Gatorskins I thought they would be the answer to my problems and I have been getting as many flats with them as without them.

So, any advice? Any help? I have read as much as I can find, and as mentioned above I think I am doing the right things, though evidently I must not be. Thanks in advance for any advice.

--Luis


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

Damn. This sounds like a nightmare. Going on 2K on Gatorskins in NYC area, no flats... except the one I'm sure to get now because of this post. Others will know more, as I've read some very knowledgeable tire threads, but it seems like something internal is causing your repeat woes?


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

What pressure are you using in your tires?

How heavy are you?

Are you paying attention to the obstacles in your way and getting out of the saddle in time?


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## lblando (Sep 9, 2013)

196 lbs, 110psi (at least), checked before each ride. Paying attention to obstacles and trying to avoid them as much as I can. Yes, going light (off the saddle) before any obstacle I cannot avoid.

While flats have been much more prevalent at higher speeds, I recently got two on a 12 mile ride where the highest speed was 10mph, as I was riding with my daughter, so they happen also at low speeds. 

Finally, while I think I am doing the above things (e.g. going light before obstacles) I may not be doing them 100% right, so maybe that's an area to get advice on? Thanks!


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

A+ on your first post and two thumbs up to your camera man! Most people come here asking for help and provide no info on their problem. You on the other hand provided lots of good info.

It sure looks like you're doing everything right, except I wouldn't put the valve stem nut on until finished. Are all your pinch flats in the area where you're using your tire levers? Tire levers are notorious for damaging the tube. 
You're definitely doing the right thing checking all around the tire bead to make sure the tube isn't pinched.
Try learning to put the tire on without levers. It can be done. Start at the opposite side and push the tire down into the groove in the rim. Work your hands simultaneously around the rim, pulling as much "slack" as you an to the opposite side. You may have to work it a few times. 
Mounting a bicycle tire w/o tire-levers - YouTube

Looks like you're a bigger guy. 23's probably aren't right for you. If you're using 25's at 110psi, that shouldn't be the problem. 




> Fifth, one afternoon I collected all the punctured tubes and decided to fix them all. I did so and pumped them all to twice their volume (give or take). Checked them all to make sure no air was leaking (using a bucket of water). Everything fine. Left them hanging overnight. The next morning, about half of them had deflated substantially and only a few of them were as I'd left them. Is that normal? I mean, it is normal for a tube to deflate *a little* but not overnight, right?


Patching tubes can be a PITA. It's not uncommon to think you have it patched right only to find it deflated or flat the next day. But a properly patched tube should hold air the same as a brand new tube.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Some of those cuts sure look as if they were made by one and the same object stuck in the tire. You just haven't been able to spot that sucker. It would be much easier for you to find such an embedded object if you would always orient the tire on the rim the same way (right now, you don't seem to be doing that). Most people always put the tire label directly over the valve hole in the rim. If there's a flat, you can then correlate the puncture in the tube to its corresponding place in the tire. That makes looking for the object that caused the flat much easier.

Another observation, but this one has nothing to do with your flats: screwing the valve stem nut on the valve stem before you inflate the tube is a bad idea. Once that nut is in place, the valve stem can't move up into the tube. It needs to do that to allow the tire bead to seat properly around the valve stem.

I don't use that nut at all. Before inflating, I push the stem up into the tire, then pull it back down to ensure I got a good bead seat in the valve area. When attaching the chuck, I just use thumb pressure to keep the valve stem from moving up into the rim. Once you get the tube up to 20 psi or so, the pressure will hold the stem down.

Last thought: Never use any tools to seat the last section of tire. It might look impossible to not use tools, but eventually, sheer thumb-power will get the bead across the rim on almost all tire-rim combinations.

Edit: didn't see tlg's post before sending mine.


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

Are those flats in the center of tread? Kind of look like it. If they are all in a similar spot on bike something is wrong. Do you notice that hit bump then the tire goes flat almost instantly? I have had 2 pinch flats in 1300 miles of riding. Both cases I hit something and the tire was flat with in 100 feet. As for bad luck on one repair I put in a new tube only to have it fail right as I installed it. The tire was fine it just a bad tube.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Can't really add too much except if these are really pinch flats at your pressure and weight then you are doing something wrong.

I run 25's, at 75/90 F/R, I'm 190# on a good day, and I'm riding on some of the crappiest roads ever, and I don't remember the last time I got a pinch flat.


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## lblando (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks very much for all the advice and feedback so far. Very useful. 

@JoePAz: most flats are on the outside of the tube (the part that meets the ground I guess). At first I thought something on the wheel/rim was causing the flats on the inside, but no, most of them are on the outside. Then, out of the 17 or so flats, only two of them were "fast". I mean, the tire was deflated within 100 feet or so. Most of them though happened when, ironically enough, I was stopped! Picture this... I was riding, sort of ok and then I stop at a light. When I start again because of the green light, the tire is flat. 

@wim: will look for an object in the tire. So far I have not been able to locate one. Also, I have tried to locate the section of the tire where these flats happen, but there doesn't seem to be a pattern. I mean, they are not all in the vicinity of each other. From now on, no nut on the valve and, I swear, I will try to seat the tire into the rim without levers. I have to say though that it is pretty difficult!. Now on this I have a question.... If I am damaging the tube when I am using the levers...then shouldn't that tube not inflate at all, or go flat almost immediately? I usually get 10+ miles before I get the flat, and thus I can't understand how can I have damaged the tube with a lever and it still "worked" for 10+ miles before popping...?

Thanks again. Much apreciated


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

lblando said:


> Also, I have tried to locate the section of the tire where these flats happen, but there doesn't seem to be a pattern. I mean, they are not all in the vicinity of each other.


If every time you fix a flat you also change the position of the tire in relation to the tube at random, the holes in the tubes will be in different places even though they could have been caused by one and the same object caught in the tire.

This is why you always center the tire label over the valve. Lets say you pull the tube and find the hole in the tube 180 degrees from the valve. If you had centered the tire label over the valve, you know that whatever caused the hole in the tube must have gone into the tire 180 degrees from the tire's label.

Although it's rare, you can damage a tube with a lever and not have it go flat immediately. What happens is that you pinch the rubber so hard that you create a small thin spot. That spot is still thick enough to hold air for a while. But after some time, it will rupture. This is very similar to a pinch flat: the tire collapses momentarily on impact with a hard object and the tube gets pinched between two layers of tire rubber (not between the tire and the rim, as many people believe). The pressure creates two thin spots, which rupture immediately or some time after the pinch.


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## chudak (Jul 28, 2012)

A couple of things after watching you mount your tire...

1) I never leave the stem for the end. That's the place where you have the hardest time getting the tire mounted correctly over the tube. I always make sure the tire is mounted correctly near the stem. The last part of the tire to mount is always 1/4 or 1/2 the way around from the stem.

2) You don't *have* to use levers. You just roll the tire backwards the palms of both hands and it will seat. Again, this is easier if you aren't trying to do this near the valve.

3) Forget testing the seating with a fully deflated tire. You should inflat to 20-30psi and THEN make sure the tube and tire are seated all the way around.

You definitely have some pinch flats. You also have some flats that could easily be caused by the use of the levers when installing your tube or by not removing the debris from the tire that caused the flat.


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## 9W9W (Apr 5, 2012)

bikerjulio said:


> Can't really add too much except if these are really pinch flats at your pressure and weight then you are doing something wrong.
> 
> I run 25's, at 75/90 F/R, I'm 190# on a good day, and I'm riding on some of the crappiest roads ever, and I don't remember the last time I got a pinch flat.


I wanted to echo this. I'm 217lbs or so, I run 85/95 in my 25mm tires. Never a "pinch flat".


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

this is just my personal advice from experience: first never repair a tube unless u are out on the road and u just have to do so, just get new ones but if u do repair them I suggest no glue patches, they work much better. I was having the very same problem, kept looking for thorns, etc., finally found a slight deformity inside the rim. could have been caused by hitting rocks, side of curb but just not sure. I used a cordless drill for which u have more speed control and a small, round sanding stone and took the burpee down little by little, just a tiny bit. second one of the tubes I replaced was a slime tube so I cut it to fit all around the rim and that was the end of my flat tubes, at least from this problem. hope this helps


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

desertbiker92211 said:


> this is just my personal advice from experience: first never repair a tube unless u are out on the road and u just have to do so, just get new ones but if u do repair them I suggest *no glue patches, they work much better.* I was having the very same problem, kept looking for thorns, etc., finally found a slight deformity inside the rim. could have been caused by hitting rocks, side of curb but just not sure. I used a cordless drill for which u have more speed control and a small, round sanding stone and took the burpee down little by little, just a tiny bit. second one of the tubes I replaced was a slime tube so I cut it to fit all around the rim and that was the end of my flat tubes, at least from this problem. hope this helps


Wrong! If you're talking about the Park glueless patches, they pretty much suck. They are in no way permanent compared to a vulcanized (glued on) patch. 

To the OP, follow the advice above. I'm 99% sure you're not getting pinch flats w/ that high pressure, excepting the one photo that shows 2 holes very close to each other. You should be able to ride 25mm tires at 90ish psi no problem. You're getting punctures from debris on the road, you're just not finding them. As wim posted, orient the tire label w/ the valve hold. Do NOT use the valve lockring, there are plenty of non-threaded valves available. If the threads were so important, all tubes would have them. Obviously they all don't have them, so they're not that important. 
And, as others advised, do NOT use tire levers to get the tire back on the rim. Learn the proper technique and only use your hands.


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## Dave Cutter (Sep 26, 2012)

I had a similar problem two years ago. I decided to start fresh replacing the tires with new and using the thorn-proof tubes. 

Before installing the new tubes and tires I inspected every mm of the rim.... when I realized* the stock glue-on rim tape was leaving sharp edges at the holes they covered*. The original/new tire were much lower pressure and the stock rim tape was only rated for like 80 psi. 

I snapped new rim tape over the old glue-on just to save time. Solved my problem.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

yes I agree no levers, ever, just good finger and thumb power. I use a spray bottle with soapy water, makes it much easier. I still think no glue patches are better but we all have our choices but I still prefer to use new tubes when I get flats. u can also check for spoke stems not being to far into the rim where it can cause a flat. just make sure to check every inch of the inside wheel for small debris. happy and safe riding and no more flats.


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## c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n (Mar 3, 2012)

I always like to use talcum powder to liberally coat on the tubes.

And a drop of dish washing liquid on a damp cloth and wipe over the rim edge and tyre bead to help with tyre mounting.

You should be able to find the offending item. Mount the tyres as recommended by so many before me. The next puncture, look in the area of where the puncture occurred. Both the tyre and rim. Rub your fingers over the area of the rim and tyre. With the tyre, if the offending item is not there, you should be able to see a pin prick by folding the tyre backwards with a bright light behind.

Good luck.


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## Roderick (Sep 10, 2013)

Found a slight deformity inside the rim. could have been caused by hitting rocks, side of curb but just not sure. I used a cordless drill for which u have more speed control and a small, round sanding stone and took the burpee down little by little, just a tiny bit.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

desertbiker92211 said:


> yes I agree no levers, ever, just good finger and thumb power. I use a spray bottle with soapy water, makes it much easier. I still think no glue patches are better but we all have our choices but I still prefer to use new tubes when I get flats. u can also check for spoke stems not being to far into the rim where it can cause a flat. just make sure to check every inch of the inside wheel for small debris. happy and safe riding and no more flats.


If the tire is really tight using fingers/thumbs isn't the best method. Roll the tire over the rim using the inside of the palm of your hand, works much better. And I'm not sure how you'd see the ends of the spokes if you have rim tape...:skep:


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## tystevens (Jul 10, 2008)

Flats are a bummer. I'm surprised the Gatorskin tires didn't do the trick for you. FWIW, I recently went with a Specialized All-Conditions Armadillo, and it is a good deal more substantial than even the Gators. 200 miles, no flats so far.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

*flat tires*



cxwrench said:


> If the tire is really tight using fingers/thumbs isn't the best method. Roll the tire over the rim using the inside of the palm of your hand, works much better. And I'm not sure how you'd see the ends of the spokes if you have rim tape...:skep:


when I replace a tube I always inspect the inside of the rim, making sure no debris or spoke stem is in the way, that's just the way I way taught and its always served me well. when I have a stubborn tire I sometimes use a rubber mallet along with soapy water, never tried talcum powder though, next time i'll give a try


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## skitorski (Dec 4, 2012)

I am surprised by some of the comments here. Here is the benefit of my noob advice.

The tire, not the tube, will get easier to roll on and off as it ages. You can use a plastic lever very carefully to break the bead, and maybe, maybe to put it back on but after the miles accumulate, the tire should go with hands only. YMMV.

Yeah. Put some air in the new tube, and massage the tire with both hands, going around the rim and flexing the tire and tube gently, looking for irregularities. i.e. the tube protruding or bulges. I don't check the pressure, but it's probably 15-30 psi. The tire should still be soft and malleable.

Check your junk this way before you take off. Watch the guy at the bike shop do it.

See ??

Can the OP post a pic of his set up please ? The "pinch flats" ???

You have to SLAM hard or be under inflated to pinch, or,

you are biting the tube during install.

It's that simple.

Good Luck !!!!


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

skitorski said:


> I am surprised by some of the comments here. Here is the benefit of my noob advice.
> 
> The tire, not the tube, will get easier to roll on and off as it ages. You can use a plastic lever very carefully to break the bead, and maybe, maybe to put it back on but after the miles accumulate, the tire should go with hands only. YMMV.
> 
> ...


my old tires were steal belted, don't know if this is the case for better quality tires but as they aged I found it harder to put back on so I replaced them with non steal belted ones and Ive had a much easier time. it seems that flat tires come in cycles, i'll go months, maybe years without one and then I get them often. go figure. safe riding all


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## jmpsmash (Jun 22, 2009)

A question that hasn't been asked.

What brand and model of tube are u using?

I ask that because some brand and model are just purely bad when it comes to puncture. Esp those extra light tubes and inflated to higher pressure.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

*tires*



jmpsmash said:


> A question that hasn't been asked.
> 
> What brand and model of tube are u using?
> 
> I ask that because some brand and model are just purely bad when it comes to puncture. Esp those extra light tubes and inflated to higher pressure.


I was using bontragers but I replaced them with serfas, they're ok for now but I looking to up grade since I spend lots of time in the back roads by myself. any suggestions? sorry on tubes I really don't know what they are now but I've tried different brand, usually whatever they have at my local biker stores


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## 299e (Sep 11, 2011)

I'll put in a vote for higher quality tubes. I've been using Michelins, they seem to be more consistent in thickness, better seams, more rubbery less plasticky. I've also started carrying an "Uncle Bill's" tweezer to help get out some micro wire bits from the tire. Sometimes these are very difficult to detect.


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## jmpsmash (Jun 22, 2009)

I have good luck with specialized tubes. Not so much with performance ones.


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## PitbullRescuer (Aug 5, 2013)

OP, a lot of lengthy relies in this thread. I didn't read them all. But I was having a constant issue with flats on my beach cruiser I keep at our shore house. I'd go ride it, put it way, the next day I'd have a flat. On the rear, I found one if the nuts for the spokes (don't know the proper term) had backed out ever so slightly. On the front, I found a slight rough edge on the inner side of the rim. Got the wheels trued up, sanded down the rough spot and have been golden ever since. 

My point is that it was actually something pretty simple that I just kept over looking and attributing it to the road, debris, etc. Hope yours is something just as simple.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

*flats*



PitbullRescuer said:


> OP, a lot of lengthy relies in this thread. I didn't read them all. But I was having a constant issue with flats on my beach cruiser I keep at our shore house. I'd go ride it, put it way, the next day I'd have a flat. On the rear, I found one if the nuts for the spokes (don't know the proper term) had backed out ever so slightly. On the front, I found a slight rough edge on the inner side of the rim. Got the wheels trued up, sanded down the rough spot and have been golden ever since.
> 
> My point is that it was actually something pretty simple that I just kept over looking and attributing it to the road, debris, etc. Hope yours is something just as simple.


I had the same problem with the rim, I also sanded it down a bit, added another wrap in the rim and no more problem. happy riding


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

FWIW, you might want to try swapping the tires front to back. If your flats migrate you know it's the tire. If it doesn't you've eliminated a possibility.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

junior1210 said:


> FWIW, you might want to try swapping the tires front to back. If your flats migrate you know it's the tire. If it doesn't you've eliminated a possibility.


No offense but this is a horrible idea. Let's say they do migrate. Then he gets a fast flat on a steep descent.


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## taralon (Sep 1, 2011)

You might want to look into tires that have a higher puncture resistance if you are getting a lot of puncture flats. I have been running Specialized Armadillos for the past 3 years, and I have been averaging about 1 flat a month after putting them on. I ride where there is a lot of glass, and a lot of goathead thorn plant (Tribulus terrestris - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). I also run stan's sealant or caffelatex in my tubes as well. In certain situations and riding conditions you have to decide if the tradeoff of a slightly higher tire weight, and a more dead tire feel is worth the possible time savings given fewer flats. 

I know I take the option of fewer flats on my commute ride, and truthfully running 'slower' and heavier tires barely impacts my commute time in the first place.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

taralon said:


> You might want to look into tires that have a higher puncture resistance if you are getting a lot of puncture flats.


Absolutely true. And the good thing is that the cheapest tires generally have the highest puncture resistance. This is because no one wants to pay big money for heavy tires, and really cheap tires are heavy. But those cheapies are heavy because the tread rubber on them is much thicker than it is on expensive "race" tires, so you get much better flat protection.

Marketing texts for high-end tires do want to have you believe that flat-protection miracles have been brought to bear on them. But the truth is that a manufacturer needs to keep the weight down if they want to charge big bucks. That means "flat protection" with expensive tires is, well, minimal.


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## desertbiker92211 (Aug 18, 2013)

*flat tires*



wim said:


> Absolutely true. And the good thing is that the cheapest tires generally have the highest puncture resistance. This is because no one wants to pay big money for heavy tires, and really cheap tires are heavy. But those cheapies are heavy because the tread rubber on them is much thicker than it is on expensive "race" tires, so you get much better flat protection.
> 
> Marketing texts for high-end tires do want to have you believe that flat-protection miracles have been brought to bear on them. But the truth is that a manufacturer needs to keep the weight down if they want to charge big bucks. That means "flat protection" with expensive tires is, well, minimal.


didn't know about the thickness of low end tires, maybe that's why I haven't had anymore flats. this works for me, im not a racer or anywhere near, I just ride for exercise, enjoyment and a bit of decompression. thanks, really appreciate it. happy and safe riding


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## lblando (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks everybody for the quantity and quality of the replies. This is one of the best forums I have been, by far, so thanks!

Now, onto some of the answers...

@skitorsi - you can see the pictures of the flats here: Flats Collection - a set on Flickr

@jmpsmash - I have bought different kinds, and all of them had flats. The ones I recall specifically: Kenda/Forte (from Performance Bicycle), Specialized, Q-Tube (or something like that). All of them were subject to flats. That said, once I patched them all (~15 of them) and I left them hanging overnight, the ones that consistently kept their pressure were the Kendas. I know, not a scientific test as I introduced my patching them right or wrong as a variable, but thought I'd mention it. 

Next, on the topic of the *rim cover*. I went through the wheel and the rim tape seems to be in good shape. However, at one or two places it seems to have moved a bit to the side, and maybe a millimeter of the holes where the spokes end was showing. Maybe the tube would go "into" that small space at high pressure, so I moved the rim tape to cover. More importantly, however, I have been advised to buy a *cloth rim tape *and replace whatever I have now with that. 

Then, I noticed that the "internal edges" of the rim (I mean, the lips that hold the tire beads in place) seem to be "sharp". That is, if you run the finger you might easily get cut. I have no idea if they should be that way or not and, either way, they are supposed to only be in contact with the tire anyways.... except that when you take the tube out or perhaps when you put it in, the tube might come in contact with that sharp lip, and that might be nicking the tube? No idea, and I might be reaching, but that's all I have so far.

One more, on the topic of *hands only/levers not allowed *when putting a tire back onto the rim.... I have tried, watched youtube videos and whatnot and I am an absolute failure I guess  Today, one of the guys at work is an old timer at biking, and he confessed that he can't get his gatorskins onto the rim without levers either and in so doing restored a bit of my pride!  I will keep trying, and hoping that as the tire ages I can do it though...

Today I rode to work, and got no flats. (fingers crossed)

Thanks again all. 

Luis


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## tlg (May 11, 2011)

lblando said:


> Maybe the tube would go "into" that small space at high pressure, so I moved the rim tape to cover. More importantly, however, I have been advised to buy a *cloth rim tape *and replace whatever I have now with that.


Yes it could go in the small space. Cloth rim tape (Velox) is the sh!t. 



> Then, I noticed that the "internal edges" of the rim (I mean, the lips that hold the tire beads in place) seem to be "sharp". That is, if you run the finger you might easily get cut. I have no idea if they should be that way or not


No it should NOT be that way. Get some fine grit sandpaper and get rid of anything sharp.


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## jmpsmash (Jun 22, 2009)

your commute route around San Jose area while don't have the best roads in the country, they don't come to the worst either. routes like San Tomas Aquino Creek trail which i use for my commute has very good condition surface. are there specific location in which you get your flats?

seems that you have replaced tires/tubes. what's left is the wheel and tape. maybe the next thing to try is to replace the rim tape. make sure you get some beefy velox tape which are bomb proof and make sure it covers the grommet holes properly.


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## junior1210 (May 2, 2013)

NJBiker72 said:


> No offense but this is a horrible idea. Let's say they do migrate. Then he gets a fast flat on a steep descent.


None taken, but when troubleshooting problems I would hope one would ride extra cautiously until the problem was solved (as in no steep descents, or at least take them slow enough to handle if he does flat).


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## Alfonsina (Aug 26, 2012)

A freind who was getting a lot of flats had sharp metal on her rim causing the problem. Poorly machined or something like that. Once they sorted it out the flats stopped.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

junior1210 said:


> None taken, but when troubleshooting problems I would hope one would ride extra cautiously until the problem was solved (as in no steep descents, or at least take them slow enough to handle if he does flat).


I agree but not always feasible, especially if commuting. Honestly there not many bike friendly routes out of town, and two have some real nice descents.


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