# Repairing a tube: solvent?



## Got Time (Jan 23, 2009)

The "usual" suggestion to clean a tube before applying glue for a patch is to use sandpaper.
However, a solvent like alcohol or paint thinner seems to be better suited.
The best solvent I found is carbon tetrachloride (Cl4C), however, since it is toxic, it is probably not such a good idea.
What is a good replacement for this purpose (which you can buy in a local (hardware?) store)?


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

Everything you mentioned is toxic. The issue with toxicity is how (much). 

That said, what you want is a liquid tire buffer and cleaner. There are a number of them available in quart quantities. Look at a local auto parts store, or even Amazon.com. If you live in the U.S., and have a NAPA Auto Parts store nearby you might try NAPA Liquid Buffer & Cleaner (part number BK 5651322 ). You can also look for similar products at other auto parts stores.

All of these pose toxicity/exposure and possibly flammability risks. Use only according to label directions.


----------



## Manning (Jul 8, 2010)

Yes, solvent works great for prepping rubber prior to a patch. I always have "brake cleaner" around, which is mostly acetone. My standard procedure for years and years. 

I never use sandpaper anymore, unless there is a pronounced seam near the hole.


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

Manning said:


> Yes, solvent works great for prepping rubber prior to a patch. I always have "brake cleaner" around, which is mostly acetone. My standard procedure for years and years.
> 
> I never use sandpaper anymore, unless there is a pronounced seam near the hole.


Just for grins I just pulled up a couple of MSDS sheets on non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the NAPA Liquid Buffer & Cleaner -- very similar compositions. Both are mixtures of acetone and hydrocarbons.

The Plews Tru-Flate (Amazon link in previous reply) is a mix of mostly trichloroethylene and tetrachloroethylene (aka perc). It will work most like the carbon tet the OP noted he had used in the past. FWIW, perc was has long been the favored cleaning solvent that is currently being phased out. In its current formulation Tru-Flate may have a limited future lifetime.


----------



## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

I use lacquer thinner to clean tubes just prior to patching.


----------



## Got Time (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks for the suggestions.

I rode to a car parts store and asked for "liquid buffer and cleaner".
The guy didn't have any in stock but knew what I was talking about and even agreed that it would be useful for bicycle tube repairs.
He suggested acetone as alternative or checking with a car tyre store.
Conveniently there was one next door -- while they didn't have it for sale, a mechanics offered to give me a bit.
The biggest problem was to find a suitable container -- so if someone else goes done that route: bring a glass bottle.

I used it today to repair one tube (as a test) and it worked fine.


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

Got Time said:


> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> I rode to a car parts store and asked for "liquid buffer and cleaner".
> The guy didn't have any in stock but knew what I was talking about and even agreed that it would be useful for bicycle tube repairs.
> ...


I guess "tyre" should have been a clue.

You can buy acetone (quart or gallon) at any Lowes or HD.

Have any friends in the dry cleaning business? Ask them for a sample of their cleaning fluid.


----------



## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

If you don't want to deal with large quantities or have a hard time finding acetone - finger nail polish removers are generally acetone or ethyl acetate, either of which are good solvents for cleaning and are easy to find (maybe in your better half's side of the bathroom).


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Rubber cement (in a jar or in the small patch kit tube) contains enough solvent (depending on the brand of the cement, it can be acetone, heptane, toluene or hexane) to do the job. So there's really no need to buy an extra quantity of solvent. 

Of course, solvent dissolves into thin air eventually. So if your rubber cement has dried up, you would need extra solvent to bring it back to life.


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

wim said:


> Rubber cement (in a jar or in the small patch kit tube) contains enough solvent (depending on the brand of the cement, it can be acetone, heptane, toluene or hexane) to do the job. So there's really no need to buy an extra quantity of solvent.
> 
> Of course, solvent dissolves into thin air eventually. So if your rubber cement has dried up, you would need extra solvent to bring it back to life.


The use of a solvent before patching is to assure a clean surface for the subsequent bonding, not to thin the adhesive. If the adhesive has thickened, it may well have already partially cured, and may not bond properly.

If you want the best of both worlds, clean the repair area with a rapidly evaporating solvent (e.g., acetone) to remove any mold release, talc, oils, grime, etc., let it dry, then buff it abrasively to expose a "virgin" surface, then brush it to remove any rubber particles, then patch.

The finger nail polish remover is an excellent idea for those who either don't keep or want to keep quantities of cleaning solvents around. Another is Goof Off Professional Strength (mostly acetone along with some aromatic hydrocarbons) - sold widely in hardware stores in small 4.5 oz cans like the old lighter fluid cans.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

ibericb said:


> The use of a solvent before patching is to assure a clean surface for the subsequent bonding


Agree, and there's enough solvent in rubber cement to do exactly that. That was supposed to be my point, which admittedly could have made clearer.


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

wim said:


> Agree, and there's enough solvent in rubber cement to do exactly that. That was supposed to be my point, which admittedly could have made clearer.


Well it only cleans it if you wipe it away afterwards. So I'm confused - how are you cleaning the tire or tube with adhesive? Applying it, then wiping it away?


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

ibericb said:


> Well it only cleans it if you wipe it away afterwards. So I'm confused - how are you cleaning the tire or tube with adhesive? Applying it, then wiping it away?


I squeeze some adhesive on the tube and smear it around with my finger to get a more or less even coat. Never thought about it much in such detail, but I suppose the solvent in the adhesive picks up some of the dirt and brings it into the adhesive compound. But in spite of being compromised now, the adhesive has never failed to work for me in 60 years of tube patching.

All I'm saying is that IMO, the solvent pre-treatment is overkill for what you're trying to accomplish. There's no doubt that a thorough pre-cleaning with a strong solvent will make a patch stick a little better. But who has problems with rubber-cemented patches coming off a bicycle tube?


----------



## robt57 (Jul 23, 2011)

wim said:


> I squeeze some adhesive on the tube and smear it around with my finger to get a more or less even coat.


Maybe just me, but I keep my dirty and personal oil on my fingers out of the equation. Not to mention I'd rather not absorb the solvents in the glue into my system at the least level. I do like sniffing it during the process though! [kidding, I don't like that either]

Not outing you, just the idea, for my fingers/system anyway...



This may be more because of a family member having survived lymphoma..


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

robt57 said:


> Maybe just me, but I keep my dirty and personal oil on my fingers out of the equation. Not to mention I'd rather not absorb the solvents in the glue into my system at the least level.


I'm sure it's a good idea. But when I started my tube patching career, it was 1953 or so and people were pretty much unaware or pretended to be, and some of that is still with me. For years, I actually lit up (tricky!) and smoked cigarettes _while_ riding my crappy Dutch bike to school and then to work and back, almost unbelievable now.


----------



## stevesbike (Jun 3, 2002)

why do some people seem intent on making something more complicated than it needs to be? What's wrong with the standard procedure? As far as I can tell, you don't even need the sandpaper


----------



## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

stevesbike said:


> why do some people seem intent on making something more complicated than it needs to be? *What's wrong with the standard procedure?* As far as I can tell, you don't even need the sandpaper


Whose standard procedure are you following? From Park Tools:

To Patch an Inner Tube Using the GP-2 Super Patch
1.	Locate hole marked during inspection. *Using fine emery cloth or sandpaper, clean the tube by lightly abrading area around hole.* Excessive sanding or heavy pressure can cause grooves in the rubber, which may lead to patch failure.
2.	*If available, wipe the area with clean rag and alcohol.* Allow it to dry completely.
3.	Peel patch from patch backing. Handle patch as little as possible and by edges only.
4.	Center patch to hole and lay patch on tube.
5.	Apply pressure to patch to assure seal. Roll patch and tube between thumbs and forefingers.
6.	Tube is ready to install. DO NOT test patch by inflating tube while outside of mounted tire. This may stretch tube body and weaken patch bond.

Patching an Inner Tube Using the VP-1 Vulcanizing Patch Kit
Glue type patches require the application of a thin layer of self-vulcanizing glue on the tube before the patch is applied. Locate hole marked during inspection, as described above.
1.	*Using fine emery cloth or sandpaper, lightly abrade area around hole. *Abrade an area larger than patch size.
2.	*When possible, clean area with alcohol and allow it to dry completely*.
3.	Open glue tube and puncture seal. Apply thin coat of glue and spread evenly around hole area. Spread area of glue larger than patch size. Use a clean finger or back of patch to spread glue evenly in a thin layer. Do not apply too much glue. Glue layer should not appear "glopped" on.
Allow glue to dry. This may take several minutes. Test by touching only perimeter area of glue, not where patch will contact.
4.	Peel patch from patch backing. Handle patch only by edges.
5.	Center patch to hole and lay patch on tube.
6.	Apply pressure to patch, especially at edges.
7.	If possible, maintain pressure for several minutes.
8.	Leave clear plastic cover on patch, do not peel up.
9.	Mount tube inside tire and inflate.
Note: Leaving on the cellophane cover over the patch will allow the patch to slide inside the tire and reduce stress on the fresh patch. If the patch is removed, use a dusting of talc or baby powder over the patch.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

ibericb said:


> If the patch is removed, use a dusting of talc or baby powder over the patch.


Worked for a guy once who'd have your azz if you got talc or baby powder anywhere near a tube or tire. But also heard of shops that require their guys to powder every tube on every bike, including the tubes on bikes just out of the box. Goes to show you how much unsubstantiated lore (to which I'm not immune either!) is there in the bicycle business.


----------



## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

One caution on nail polish remover, it frequently has fragrance and/or oils added which could likely interfere with patch adhesion. Also, it's more often ethyl acetate than acetone.


----------

