# New Bike Question



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

I've been away from the road cycling part of the sport for 20 + years. Looking to buy a new road bike to get back into the sport. 

1st question: What is the lower end of road bikes (Costs and features) to be considered a decent road bike.

2nd question: If I plan to ride some on rough roads and gravel roads as part of my road riding, are there types of bikes that I should look for? Will these put me at a disadvantage on group road rides because they are heavier etc?

Thanks.


----------



## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

mm9 said:


> I've been away from the road cycling part of the sport for 20 + years. Looking to buy a new road bike to get back into the sport.
> 
> 1st question: What is the lower end of road bikes (Costs and features) to be considered a decent road bike.
> 
> ...


2. If you want, a cylocross bike. It would be a little heavier, but more comfortable, and make sure the crank is at minimum a 50/34, rather than a 36/46. If you have steep descents... cantilever brakes, to me feel dangerous with their lack thereof stopping power.

You can also use a regular road bike with thicker 25mm tires (as opposed to 23), you;ll just have to ride slower in the rougher parts.

1. IMO, the min I go is 10-speed, and that being said, it's a Tiagra 4600. But that's just my preference


----------



## kookieCANADA (Jan 20, 2011)

Check out the Trek Domane series bikes (heard great things about them). Designed for rough roads yet no disadvantage in group rides.

The Domane 2 series costs around $2K. If you want carbon, the 4 series costs a little more.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

1) Torker Interurban. I didn't end up buying one when I broke my previous commute bike, but I'd decided to step up from day's-pay bikes and hopefully get a little better service when I came across them. Full size range, no-frills drivetrain with integrated shifters, crank with replaceable rings, a fair amount of clearance, and eyelets for fenders and a rack. $600, at the time. A friend of mine offered me one of his bikes for about the same price, but it was a fair amount nicer and had disc brakes.

Or, mid-90s used, with Shimano or Campy integrated shifters. You can get replacement parts easily and the upgrade paths are (mostly) easy if something hard to source breaks.

Or, in light of your second question, a 'cross bike a racer is dumping since the season ended in most of the country a couple weeks ago.

Regardless, make sure it fits.

For me, 8-speed is the minimum. 7 uses a differently spaced hub in some cases and passed through a couple different standards. Irritating.

2) I ride gravel on 23 mm tires from time to time. It's not ideal, but all life is compromise. The answer to this really depends on how much gravel and dirt you ride. If you start with a 'cross bike and decide it's overkill, you can always go to skinnier tires. If you start with a tight-clearance racing bike and decide it's sketchy, you're SOL. I don't know the current crop of endurance road bikes, so no input there.

Don't worry about the weight. Outside of competition, almost everybody on a group ride is more overweight than their bikes. Having an efficient riding position matters. You can have that on any correctly-sized bike. I like "fast" tires. You can put those on any road or 'cross bike.

Go ride some bikes. Good luck!


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

If you are interested in both road group rides and some gravel and rough terrain rides, I would look for an "endurance race" or cyclocross bike that has multiple levels of specs and price points. Bikes like the Cannondale Synapse, Trek Domane, Specialized Roubaix, BMC Granfondo, Felt Z Series, etc. all have entry level versions that shouldn't kill you on price and won't be a real liability on group rides. They also all are very solid bikes that can you can ride for years as you progress and just upgrade the wheels and components. Neilpryde also has a new endurance road bike, as does Scott (Solace). Most major manufacturers have something like this in fact. I really like the Felt Z5 and the new Cannondale Synapse 105 in this range. I hear good things about the base level Trek Domane as well. You will need to determine whether you are ok with aluminum or looking for carbon fiber during the process though.


----------



## SBard1985 (May 13, 2012)

I'll echo what everybody is saying, endurance road or cross bike. The cross rip looks rad: CrossRip - Trek Bicycle

I would definitely consider this if I was in the market for a do-it-all rig at the moment. 

I recently picked this up: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_553817_-1___203559

I got it for $640 during one of their "sales" that they have on a weekly basis. For some slower paced group road rides I have thrown my Dura Ace C24s on this bike and it feels great. If you get the upgrade bug sooner than later, this bike will make an excellent all-arounder (cross, commuter, bad weather bike, etc) and it will be worth hanging onto, or the shimano 105 is worthy of hanging on another frame down the road. 

Equipment won't necessarily give you an advantage or disadvantage in group rides, your fitness levels will dictate that. I'm 28 and I ride with some guys in their 50s on old steel frame bikes and they're so fast. I don't think they ever get tired.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Some cross bikes that have a geometry that is closer to traditional road can be found with some American manufacturers. Trek has the Crockett and the new Boone, Specialized has the Crux, Cannondale has the Caad X, and Felt has their FX Series, etc. A number of those could fit your needs and not break the bank as well.


----------



## expatbrit (Oct 16, 2013)

I went thru' this before Xmas, and ended up with a 'cross bike on 28mm road tyres. Seems fabulous so far, but I'm relatively slow. (16-18mph averages on hilly rides). It does fine on gravel and a bit of sand, great on the road. Got a couple of hundred miles on it.

Ride some bikes and test-drive shops. That's what got me on the brand I am on -- I wanted to but from the shop I felt comfy with and worked well with me.


----------



## expatbrit (Oct 16, 2013)

I'd add the Kona Jake and Jake the Snake to Rashabads list. I'd have been tempted if I liked the dealer and could test ride in my size.


----------



## dysfunction (Apr 2, 2010)

expatbrit said:


> I'd add the Kona Jake and Jake the Snake to Rashabads list. I'd have been tempted if I liked the dealer and could test ride in my size.


Good calls, I keep looking at those.. even though I'm really looking at a Rove for commuting.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

expatbrit said:


> I'd add the Kona Jake and Jake the Snake to Rashabads list. I'd have been tempted if I liked the dealer and could test ride in my size.


Those are definitely solid options if you can live with the braking system. It probably wouldn't be the best choice if you are going to be dealing with steep grade, tricky descents. That will be the issue you will have to think about with cross bikes (braking). More and more people are starting to feel comfortable riding descents with disc brakes though I guess.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

He could also probably do just fine with the alloy or carbon Shimano 105 version of one of these on 28mm tires:

BMC granfondo GF01 MY13 - YouTube

Introducing the All-New 2014 Synapse - YouTube


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Not sure if he's into carbon and 105 given question 1.

But then, some people post that they're looking for a cost-conscious bike and then we find out that they're frame of reference is dentists, and $2000 is no problem.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Not sure if he's into carbon and 105 given question 1.
> 
> But then, some people post that they're looking for a cost-conscious bike and then we find out that they're frame of reference is dentists, and $2000 is no problem.


Yeah, it's hard to tell without a price range being listed, but that's why I tried to direct him to bikes that also have both carbon 105 and entry level aluminum versions at cheaper price points. The BMC, Felt, Cannondale, Specialized, and Trek all have alloy options available (as do a bunch of other companies).


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the replies. Very helpful. As I stick my toe back in the water, I'll probably be looking in the cheaper end of the range. The lowest price "real" road bike that can last me at least a couple of years of riding.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

My $100 bikes lasted at least two years. 

More or less.


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

To clarify - I mean "last" in the sense of being a decent enough bike to follow a rider who is becoming more serious about the sport over the first two years.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I think this is actually more of a personality thing.

When you start going on group rides, you're going to meet all sorts of riders. One type shows up on a bike he bought pretty much any time in the last twenty years. It's near-stock. Could be cheap, could be very nice. It doesn't really matter. This guy thinks he bought all the bike he needs up front, and all he's doing now is riding it and maintaining it. When it's a chewed old thing and the guy's strong, it kinda sucks - that wheel I'm having a hard time hanging onto can be a spinning reminder of what is and isn't important, and I've been known to try to buy a few Watts.

Another guy has some new bit every couple weeks. He'll tell me it's impossible to ride seriously without Dura-Ace, down to the cassette and chain. (Thanks for reminding me how much more you make, BTW.) Also how fabulous and amazing the ride of carbon fiber is. I find it highly satisfying when these guys fall apart as soon as the grade exceeds 1%, but they come in "strong" too.

So really, both of these guys believe themselves to have the bikes they need. Actually, that's not really true, the second guy probably needs carbon deep-section wheels or a power meter or something.

Point being, to a large extent, it's a state of mind.

Now, I think integrated shifters are a really nice convenience and when I finally gave up on my too-big road bike and set up my correctly-sized 'cross bike for full-time road riding, I kicked myself for waiting so long. I do think equipment can improve the experience when I make better choices.

Fact is, as you go up in price, you get more bike, and some of the changes can make them more fun to ride and more reliable. My current main road ride is a '09 Kona Jake - a $900 bike at the time. I actually still has have much of the original build on it, and a lot of the parts I replaced were due to crash damage. I've done a bunch of 'cross races, are road race, a Century, and a bunch of training on it.

My previous road bike retailed for almost twice as much, and it did a little better on reliability and things were, for lack of a better word, more refined. So I don't feel that bikes at that price point are a ripoff when I can spend half as much and do all the same things. I did my first two centuries and some crits on that one.

You really need to figure out what you're comfortable spending and go ride some bikes. I think it's possible to get a nice ride and good value from about $350 up. Bear in mind that you'll need some related equipment. A helmet, gloves, probably some shorts, jerseys, and shoes, a few tools. You should also expect to change out a few things early on. Getting the fit right often involves a different stem, for example.


----------



## RaptorTC (Jul 20, 2012)

^I fall somewhere between the two guys you described. I like nice things and would definitely be rolling around on a carbon aero wunderbike if I could afford it, but alas I can't. Instead I've got about 6,000 miles on a Bikes Direct bike that set me back a whole $600. I have treated myself to some upgraded contact points and handbuilt myself some Bike Hub Store Wheels, but otherwise the bike largely remains stock (except the rear derailleur that I shredded in crit crash). As much as I'd like to, I can't justify spending money right now on lighter bits when I've got a good 15 lbs that I could lose myself, especially since my current setup is completely functional. And I must say that I did get a good deal of enjoyment after a guy showed race on a super aero bike with Di2 and Zipps and got shelled out the back the moment the road pointed upwards.

And onto the OP's question. I'd recommend something along the lines of a cyclocross bike. A very versatile option as it can take wider nobby tires as well as road tires. Some of my buddies have thrown road tires on their cross bikes when their road bikes were in the shop and kept up just fine. 

An endurance style frame would work as well. They go through the hell that is Paris Roubaix and don't totally explode so they'd likely handle anything a normal cyclist could throw at them.


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

Good stuff - thanks!

Can a cyclocross bike or endurance bike handle small curb jumps etc. I like to ride like an hooligan for parts of my solo rides. Don't want a bike that I'd be afraid of bending or exploding wheels etc.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

mm9 said:


> Good stuff - thanks!
> 
> Can a cyclocross bike or endurance bike handle small curb jumps etc. I like to ride like an hooligan for parts of my solo rides. Don't want a bike that I'd be afraid of bending or exploding wheels etc.


The honest answer is it depends on what you plan on doing. Both types of bikes are designed to take significant "normal" abuse. If you google and watch part of a professional cyclocross race like Koksijde or Essen or one of the Belgian cobbled classics like Paris Roubaix, you will know what I mean. That being said, if you plan on trying to become the next Marty Ashton, I am not sure how much of that kind of punishment a bike can live up to. Given your interests and price point, it sounds like an aluminum alloy version of one of the bikes listed above might be the best fit for now though.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Something like one of these might work (there are tons of other options out there in this price range, but most of these come with a lifetime warranty and crash replacement policies):

Z95 - Felt Bicycles

F75X - Felt Bicycles

Crockett 5 - Trek Bicycle

Specialized Bicycle Components

Specialized Bicycle Components

Synapse 7 Sora - ROAD - BIKES - 2014

CAADX 7 Sora - ROAD - BIKES - 2014

Domane 2.0 - Trek Bicycle


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

I just remembered that this is what my old riding partner in Oregon is riding and the thing has lasted him for years at this point (but he needs to upgrade the component group after some issues). It was less than $700 as I recall and he has climbed plenty of cat 4 and cat 3 climbs with this thing and gone over 70+ miles tons of times on rides. It's alloy, but fairly light under the circumstances and comes with a very good warranty:

Defy 5 (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

Defy 3 (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States (more bang for your buck maybe)


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Diamondback has also improved their bikes recently and just got back in the pro cycling game as they will now be sponsoring Optum Pro Cycling. They have three lines of road bikes that should also start around $700 (the Century, the Hanjoo and the Podium):

Diamondback Century 1 Road Bike 2014 > Complete Bikes > Road Bikes | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

Diamondback Bicycles - Home


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

Rashadabd said:


> Diamondback has also improved their bikes recently and just got back in the pro cycling game as they will now be sponsoring Optum Pro Cycling. They have three lines of road bikes that should also start around $700 (the Century, the Hanjoo and the Podium):
> 
> Diamondback Century 1 Road Bike 2014 > Complete Bikes > Road Bikes | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
> 
> Diamondback Bicycles - Home


Here's a deal on a Podium from 2013 for $650 & another for $865 or so:

Amazon.com: Diamondback 2013 Podium 1 Road Bike with 700c Wheels: Sports & Outdoors

http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-2013-Podium-Road-Wheels/dp/B008O2INKA


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

mm9 said:


> Good stuff - thanks!
> 
> Can a cyclocross bike or endurance bike handle small curb jumps etc. I like to ride like an hooligan for parts of my solo rides. Don't want a bike that I'd be afraid of bending or exploding wheels etc.


I should hope so - have you seen 'cross??

The biggest weakness vs. a mountain bike is that road bikes are a lot less forgiving. Between being steeper-angled, having more weight toward the front, and typically having smaller tires, you need to hop up ledges more cleanly and it's harder to keep it together in a rock garden or over a root bed. It's also a lot sketchier to roll the same drops, and a little tougher to manual.

Of course, all bets are off when you crash.

Skinnier tires than a typical MTB tire don't do as good a job protecting the rim. So square-edged hits are more likely to cause rim damage.

For me, what it comes down to is that I ride my road bikes up and down curbs routinely and don't slow down for potholes or rough pavement. And I'll duck into mellower singletrack. But I haven't tried to do sustained singletrack climbs or descents. Doubletrack and service roads, sure, at least as long as they're not the kind that are hardened with fist-sized rocks.

On the bright side, that nearby MTB spot that just isn't that interesting on a MTB anymore is new and fun again on a 'cross bike. Definitely mess around with it. At the very least, you won't be one of those guys who stops and gets off his bike to cross a gravel parking lot.


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

Rashadabd said:


> Here's a deal on a Podium from 2013 for $650 & another for $865 or so:
> 
> Amazon.com: Diamondback 2013 Podium 1 Road Bike with 700c Wheels: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Amazon.com: Diamondback 2013 Podium 3 Road Bike with 700c Wheels: Sports & Outdoors


Rashadabd: Thanks for the list of bikes. very helpful!


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

Thanks all for your help. I've got an old bike in my garage that's in pieces, but is in pretty good shape. Would it be an acceptable bike to give the sport a try again. More info:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/beginners-corner/would-bike-still-work-316456.html#post4534729


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

It annoys me when people feel a need to start a new thread for a continuation of roughly the same topic. Just sayin'.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

The answers are "yes," "yes," and "yes."


----------



## mm9 (Jul 20, 2009)

AndrwSwitch said:


> It annoys me when people feel a need to start a new thread for a continuation of roughly the same topic. Just sayin'.


Thanks for letting me know. Sorry about that. I debated on how to post it, but thought it's kind of a different subject. Wasn't sure what I should do.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I was just thinking it wouldn't kill me to give some justification.

It's confusing and it robs context when you spread the same conversation through multiple threads. People are going to see it here or they're not. You're going to get off-the-wall answers and repeat yourself a lot if you do the multiple-thread thing. And when people really go for it, it's hard to see if someone's had a question answered already.

I swore off '80s bikes after I broke my last one. If you want to do it as a project, by all means. Certainly they can still work. But every time I had to do maintenance on that bike, or other ones from before 8-speed cassettes, it was more of a project than I really wanted to deal with. Standards are always in a slow drift, so it doesn't necessarily look like they're changing in any given year. But when you're talking about over twenty years, it's enough to be a total pain.

Whatever you do, don't try to make it contemporary. That's going to cost way more than just buying a new bike and you'll have a frankenbike. At least if you keep it period, it's kind of cool.


----------



## Rashadabd (Sep 17, 2011)

mm9 said:


> Rashadabd: Thanks for the list of bikes. very helpful!


No problem man. Happy to help.


----------

