# 1989 Shogun Ninja?



## bsegars (Apr 28, 2010)

Hi guys and gals,
I'm thinking of selling my bike, and wanted to try to figure out exactly what I've got before doing so. I bought it used in 1999 or 2000 from a bike shop in Greensboro, NC. The shop said it was a Shogun, but there are no markings/decals on the frame. It came with a 1989 Shogun book and best I can tell from the book, it is a Ninja model. Components are Shimano 600. It's in fantastic condition basically b/c it's been kept inside for 10 years. I doubt I've put even 100 miles on it. Basically I wanted to find out if there are any tips/tricks for finding markings or serial numbers that I can use to make sure I've got what I think I do. I can also post pics if you guys would let me know what parts you'd want to see.
Thanks,
Bobby


----------



## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

bsegars said:


> Hi guys and gals,
> I'm thinking of selling my bike, and wanted to try to figure out exactly what I've got before doing so. I bought it used in 1999 or 2000 from a bike shop in Greensboro, NC. The shop said it was a Shogun, but there are no markings/decals on the frame. It came with a 1989 Shogun book and best I can tell from the book, it is a Ninja model. Components are Shimano 600. It's in fantastic condition basically b/c it's been kept inside for 10 years. I doubt I've put even 100 miles on it. Basically I wanted to find out if there are any tips/tricks for finding markings or serial numbers that I can use to make sure I've got what I think I do. I can also post pics if you guys would let me know what parts you'd want to see.
> Thanks,
> Bobby


It's likely worth $300 or less, so I wouldn't spend too much time researching.


----------



## bsegars (Apr 28, 2010)

Just in case anyone wanted to see it.
View attachment 198485


View attachment 198486


----------



## Uncle Grumpy (Jul 25, 2005)

You got the bike in front of a garage door and with the chain in a high gear. Those 2 things are critical for photographing a bike.

But 2 photos? Come on!

You need a few more close ups, and the first pic isn't even close enough. Us bike nuts crave details.

A few photos of the lugs and seatpost/top tube junction, dropouts, under the bottom bracket all help us to determine what bike it is.

And gees, put the seat up to above the top of the bars to at least make it look fast.

The Shogun Ninja of that period was, from memory, a decent entry level bike. No world beater but not a POS either. Shimano 600 was a good workhorse groupset, not as bling as Dura Ace (not that anyone said 'bling' in 1989) but light (for the time) and reliable. Actually, that era 600 is a favourite of mine.

The stem looks a bit later. What wheels are on it?

Doesn't look to be any reason why you can't tune it up, clean it up and ride the hell out of it.

Grumps


----------



## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

That there is a perfectly serviceable, ride it forever bike. 

You can buy a whole lot of fancier stuff these days, but very little will be as versatile (yours will probably fit 28mm tires), as hard to break (middle of the road steel is pretty hard to f' up.) and as crisp to shift (sti DT shifters are amazingly crisp and you can dump the whole cassette in one move instead of 3).

I'd keep it and put some more miles on it.


----------



## bsegars (Apr 28, 2010)

> But 2 photos? Come on!
> 
> You need a few more close ups, and the first pic isn't even close enough. Us bike nuts crave details.


Yeah sorry, by the time I got home from work and dusted it off, it was getting dark. The flash made the close ups look bad so I just went with these. I'll get some more posted if I get home in time to get some good light.


> And gees, put the seat up to above the top of the bars to at least make it look fast.


Now we get to the reason I'm selling. The reason the seat is so low is that the bike has alway been just a bit too big for me. In fact, the stem was changed out a few years ago by a guy I used to work with to try to shorten it up for me. I tried to take it out last spring a couple of times and I each time after just a few minutes a certain anatomical part goes numb that I'm not real comfortable with being numb for too long. I've got two kids, but don't want to be forced to stop there. My guess is that at 26, I could stand being uncomfortable, but at 36, it's not something I really want to put up with.


----------



## Uncle Grumpy (Jul 25, 2005)

Yeah, numb hands aren't a good thing.

Oh... wait, I get it...

Yeah, if it's too big then you no option other than to sell it to fund something appropriately sized. Shame, because it would be the sort of bike you could really enjoy yet still allow an upgrade path.

Grumps


----------



## bsegars (Apr 28, 2010)

Hopefully, these will be better received.
View attachment 198549


View attachment 198550


View attachment 198551


View attachment 198552


View attachment 198553


View attachment 198554


View attachment 198555


View attachment 198556


View attachment 198557


View attachment 198558


----------



## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

It looks like a sweet bike, but needs a classier stem.


----------



## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

I'm guessing you're 5'6" to 5'8"? That's just a guess looking at the original photo.


----------



## ultimobici (Jul 16, 2005)

Is the rear wheel in straight and correctly dished? If not the frame may be out of track.


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

buck-50 said:



> That there is a perfectly serviceable, ride it forever bike.
> 
> .



Well said.....


----------



## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

BTW, many who start riding have the complaint of numbness even when the fitting is pretty close. How tall are you?


----------



## greg75 (Feb 15, 2008)

Hi. This looks like a fine bike, but I am not sure it is a Shogun Ninja. I purchased one new in 1990 and it is lugged steel (Tange No 1) construction. Your bike looks to be TIG welded or fillet brazed. You can see what a 1990 model looks like here:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=158256&highlight=shogun+ninja


----------



## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

greg75 said:


> Hi. This looks like a fine bike, but I am not sure it is a Shogun Ninja. I purchased one new in 1990 and it is lugged steel (Tange No 1) construction. Your bike looks to be TIG welded or fillet brazed. You can see what a 1990 model looks like here:
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=158256&highlight=shogun+ninja



+1....I thought the Ninja was lugged too....Either way that is a very cool frame...It looks fillet brazed to me


----------



## bsegars (Apr 28, 2010)

I'm 5'10". dmar, do you know if there are any remedys? I've tried different sitting positions with no luck yet.


----------



## Uncle Grumpy (Jul 25, 2005)

bsegars said:


> I'm 5'10". dmar, do you know if there are any remedys? I've tried different sitting positions with no luck yet.


If you've tried position, then the next thing is a different shaped saddle.

Take a look at a few saddles from behind. Some are wider than others, some are flatter and some have an apex. For me, I find flat saddles better but everyone's butt and preference differs, so what works for me may not work for you.

You also need to get yourself on the bike in a comfortable and neutral position. By neutral, I guess I mean one that is natural and allows full range of proper pedalling motion using your whole leg.

STEP 1 - Saddle height 

A good basic method for saddle height is:

1. Set the drive side crank up in line with the seat tube. The pedal is therefore at it's furthest point from the saddle.

2. Sit on the bike with your heel on the pedal. You need to sit flat/even on the saddle, not leaning to one side.

3. With you heel on the pedal, your leg should be straight, not stretched.

4. With the ball of your foot on the pedal, you should have the right amount of "bend" in the knee to pedal through the whole stroke.

5. Keeping that setting in mind, experiment 1cm up or down at a time until you find what works for you. The above method works but don't be shy to fine tune it to suit.

STEP 2 - Saddle tilt

Put the bike on a level floor and place a spirit level on the saddle. Get it level. Again, you might find a bit of tilt either way will be more comfortable depending on the saddle.

STEP 3 - Fore and Aft position

Experiment with fore and aft. I'm not an expert on this one, but there is a method for using a plumb off the knee which falls across the pedal when the knee is in a certain position. Google it, or someone here might help.

I always find my neutral position and set my saddles fore and aft to find the sweet spot. In your butt cheeks (sorry to get personal) there are the sit bones (ichials). They need to take your weight on the saddle. Until those points adapt, they will get hot, sore, tender etc, but they'll adapt better than those other bits.

Hope that helps. Others might chime in with other methods and biomechanical thoeries, but the thing to remember is:

Use these methods as a starting point. As sound as they are, you might find a bit of an adjustment here and there helps a lot.

And again, it could just be that you have the wrong saddle for your butt.

Good luck.

Grumps


----------



## racerx (Jan 29, 2004)

*Not a Shogun....*



greg75 said:


> Hi. This looks like a fine bike, but I am not sure it is a Shogun Ninja. I purchased one new in 1990 and it is lugged steel (Tange No 1) construction. Your bike looks to be TIG welded or fillet brazed. You can see what a 1990 model looks like here:
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=158256&highlight=shogun+ninja


I agree, I raced on a team who was sponsored by Panasonic then Shogun through the mid 80's to early 90's.

Does not look familiar...


----------



## john8061 (May 20, 2010)

That is a 1989 Shogun Ninja...


----------

