# Help Getting Started w/ Cycling



## CC6 (Jul 16, 2007)

Hi, Hoping you guys can give me some advice and maybe even encouragement...I've always been very athletic, but have gained about 35 pounds since graduating from college 6 years ago and stopping the year-round training for playing a DI sport. I need a new competitive challenge. 

So where do I start? I bought a mountain bike a few years ago (when I was living in the mountains), but find it frustrating to try to do any type of longer rides on the road with it. I don't have much money to spend on a new bike, but want something that I will be happy with and will keep me excited with the sport. Realistically how much do I need to spend? Can I head to Dick's or someplace like that or do I have to find a true bike shop? I'm in a very rural area and will have to drive a few hours to find something either way. How about ebay or something else online? What measurements should I know? I'm 5'6" and definitely heavier than most women who you'd see riding around in bike shorts, so is a women's bike still a good idea? 

Beyond the bike itself, what upfront expenses are we talking about? I've got a helmet, gloves, and some cycling shirts. 

Once I get a bike, any suggestions on how to "ease" into it as far as training goes? 

Thanks for your help! CC


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

hrmm, my question is... why do u find longer rides frustrating?

is it a 'nice' MTB - as in - not a crappy walmart special? in that case changin' the tyres is prolly enuff.. Really won't make things less frustratin' on a road bike - plus u gotta be sure u like distance riding before you shell out.. that's what i did - b/c road bikes are also more expensive typically than MTBs...

just my opinion - also really need to know what "not much" is... if you have a nice MTB - swapping out the tyres would be better than spending something on a cheapie roadie which would cost just as much if not more !

apart from that - clip in pedals and shoes is a must IMO. otherwise its not 'cycling'.


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## MB1 (Jan 27, 2004)

*I didn't know that.*



wankski said:


> ......apart from that - clip in pedals and shoes is a must IMO. otherwise its not 'cycling'.


So what you are saying is that there were no cyclists before the 1970's?


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

^ nope... there is the strap in option... the point is, since she wants to get into cycling in a big way - its useful to learn better pedalling technique now as in the 'circle motion' - otherwise its just pushing on the pedals... may as well learn properly before staking on teh miles and discovering 'a new way' later...

sorry - my words may have been cryptic... it was a reference to her q on 'upfront expenses' w/ road bikes... most ppl end up getting em sooner or later... sooner is better IMO.


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## CC6 (Jul 16, 2007)

Thanks for the response. I get frustrated because it feels so slow on the mountain bike and it bugs me when old people fly right by me. I have a Raleigh Tara (I think that's what it's called), so I don't know where that falls on the spectrum. 

When I enquired about different tires at a bike shop last year (mentioning hybrid bikes), I was told that I couldn't get a true hybrid wheel, the best I could do was get one that was like a reverse mohawk, bald down the middle with mountain bike treads on the outside.

My other issue with the bike, really with the bike shop owner, is that I got it near the end of a summer, he fitted me for it, I assumed everything was great. I rode it for the end of the season, then after getting a late start the next spring, rode for a few weeks and my knees were bothering me. Someone that knows what they're talikng about took one look at me on my bike and said my seat was too far forward, that my knees are too far in front of the pedals. So I went back to the bike shop, reminded him that he had just fitted me for this bike, he said yes, it clearly didn't fit, that i needed a seat that would set back a bit...he ordered it for me and when i went to pick it up, wanted to charge me full price... told him I would have expeced at least a discount if not getting if for free since he knew I was new to the sport, that he fitted me for the bike and that I certainly had not grown...so I left without the seat and a few weeks later his family had to move for personal reasons and the store was closed. 

So I guess maybe if I got tires and the correct seat I could give the bike a try again. So what's the deal with the tire story I was told? Also, how should I got about finding a new seat without a bike shop around? Do I just guess that I need it to set back 2-3 inches? And I do enjoy long rides, so I'm sure it's a sport I will enjoy. 
Thanks, CC


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

A good starting point for saddle fore-aft positon is "knee over pedal spindle". Sit on the bike with your butt in the normal place and your feet on the pedals (put a hand on the wall for balance). Have an assistant make sure that your pedals are level, and then drop a plumb line (string with a nut tied on the end works for me) from the front of your knee. The string should bisect the pedal axle. That's the KOPS starting point. You can fine tune from there.

Having the saddle back involves the glutes more and makes for better climbing. Saddle forwards uses the quads more and makes it easier to spin the pedals. Don't move the saddle too much at a time, try 3-5mm and then see how it feels for a few rides.

When you move the saddle forwards or backwards you also change the distance to the pedals. When the saddle goes forward you also need to raise the saddle a little (about 1/3 as much), and when you move it back you need to lower it about 1/3 as much as you moved it back. The easy way is to measure seat height to the bottom bracket axle before and after you move the saddle forwards or back and then just make it the same as before.

You can get slick road tires for mountain bike wheels, they will roll much better than lugged off road tires. You'll need new tubes to go with them, because they are narrower tires.


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## wankski (Jul 24, 2005)

CC6 said:


> Thanks for the response. I get frustrated because it feels so slow on the mountain bike and it bugs me when old people fly right by me. I have a Raleigh Tara (I think that's what it's called), so I don't know where that falls on the spectrum.


hey,
sorry if i appear rough here, but that old ppl thing if true is more a function of fitness than the type of bike you are on. a road bike wont make u magically quick. Looking up reviews of the bike on the net quickly, it seems like a circa $3-400 lightish alloy bike (if i looked up the right one!) altho dualies aren't the best choice for the road, seems like it'll do the job to at least build up the stamina and speed.

as you've prolly gathered the bike shop is a dud. There are certainly slicks avail - keep in mind bigger tyres are more comfortable... 23mil road tyres tend to be rock hard.

that said - getting a road bike to ride in packs and such will introduce a new element if you are keen. How much is probably better answered by a yank (sorry i read your question wrong in my first response! ignore that!) - but certainly don't feel pressured by the sales ppl into thinking u 'need' a certain groupset level or frame material. As you've gathered - fit is the most important aspect - so settle on soemthing that feels most right to you...

best check out your local shop since u need a guide for fit - don;t be afraid to walk out if u feel they're not serving u properly! But yeah, a sora or tiagra road bike is functional and shouldn't set u back too much (relative to the world of road bikes)....

certainly you'll spend money on clothing and equipment. Aside from shoes (maybe i'm being daft here...) do you have proper cycling knicks? the proper lyrca stuff is important for longer rides... also consider a wind vest if ur climate really requires one...

my advice is spend your dough on that stuff - so if u really get into it and decide to upgrade your bike later for a more expensive flashy one, u can still use all your equipment - no wastage ! Good quality shoes and clothes really last and make you more comfortable imo... as you stack on the miles you'll blow more than enough money on tires, tubes, chains etc and later on u may even need a trainer to keep fit and work on your legs... so the initial cost of teh bike is the tip of the iceberg... heh, there's a happy thought...

good luck

btw, yes - those things on your MTB is easily fixed.... can't u slide your seat back on the current post?... that adjustment is free !!

ps: consider protective eyewear - not just for the UV.... but for road safety reasons ! cars tend to fling little rocks at you - if it hits u in the eye it can cause an accident... also copping an insect/object to the eye is not fun when you're travelling at speed.


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

CC6 said:


> Hi, Hoping you guys can give me some advice and maybe even encouragement...I've always been very athletic, but have gained about 35 pounds since graduating from college 6 years ago and stopping the year-round training for playing a DI sport. I need a new competitive challenge.
> 
> So where do I start? I bought a mountain bike a few years ago (when I was living in the mountains), but find it frustrating to try to do any type of longer rides on the road with it. I don't have much money to spend on a new bike, but want something that I will be happy with and will keep me excited with the sport. Realistically how much do I need to spend? Can I head to Dick's or someplace like that or do I have to find a true bike shop? I'm in a very rural area and will hav
> e to drive a few hours to find something either way. How about ebay or something else online? What measurements should I know? I'm 5'6" and definitely heavier than most women who you'd see riding around in bike shorts, so is a women's bike still a good idea?
> ...


Hi CC6 and welcome to RBR. Yeah it's a drag that you had to pay twice for the saddle on the bike. If I were you I would sell the saddle you don't want on ebay or something. 

Can you tell us, how much are you willing to spend on a road bike?


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## CC6 (Jul 16, 2007)

I'd like to spend less than $300...probably unrealistic for a whole new bike (or even a decent used)...with your suggestions I'm thinking I could be just as happy with new tires and a new seat. Can you tell me specifically what tires I should ask for? And do I need to have the bike with me (or is it something I can do myself)? The reason I ask is I'm going to a business meeting tomorrow in a nearby city where there's got to be a bike shop, but we're probably just taking a small car. Also, the seat I have now does not have any room to move it forward/backward, I'm assuming there are seats out there that give me some choice as opposed to having to buy the exact one? 

I'm heading on vacation on Friday, an annual vacation where I usually enjoy early morning bike rides, and would love to figure something out before then. Thanks, Colleen


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

You can bring your wheels in. Maybe even take your seat post in. 

Before you remove it you might want to put a piece of tape to mark how far it was inserted. You can use this mark as a guideline for when you reinstall the seat post. Chances are with a new saddle you'll have to make some adjustments up or down but the mark will give you a good place to start.


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## CC6 (Jul 16, 2007)

I can take the front wheel off, but the back one makes me nervous...is it easier than I think? Colleen


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## kaotikgrl (Dec 14, 2006)

.....


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## il sogno (Jul 15, 2002)

CC - You might have to swing the derailleur forward with your fingers to help the wheel come out.


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## theBreeze (Jan 7, 2002)

*clueless shop owner??*



CC6 said:


> Thanks for the response. I get frustrated because it feels so slow on the mountain bike and it bugs me when old people fly right by me. I have a Raleigh Tara (I think that's what it's called), so I don't know where that falls on the spectrum.
> 
> When I enquired about different tires at a bike shop last year (mentioning hybrid bikes), I was told that I couldn't get a true hybrid wheel, the best I could do was get one that was like a reverse mohawk, bald down the middle with mountain bike treads on the outside.
> 
> ...


OK, first off, you need different TIRES, not a different WHEEL. Most any on-line bike stuff dealer is going to have some kind of treadless mtb tires. I would check out biketiresdirect.com as they have very good prices and you can know right away what they have in stock.

Second. If you needed your saddle moved back, why did they make you buy a whole new saddle? Saddles can be moved forward and back on their rails, so unless you had used up the rail limit on the saddle and needed one with longer rails, you got ripped off. 2-3 inches is a HUGE adjustment to make, and you may not need that big of a change. Take a look at the rails under the saddle. Many have cm and mm marks. To adjust the saddle yourself get a friend and find a spot where you can sit on the bike and keep youself upright, like next to a table, counter or some such. Find how the saddle attaches to the rails and loosen the nuts. Start by adjusting only a cm or so, tighten everything back up and get on the bike. Sit on the bike with your pedals at the same level and one foot forward. Have your friend hold a plumb bob at the front of your knee and check where it points over your foot/pedal. It should be straight over the spindle of the pedal. Readjust as necessary.

Third. Define for us what a long ride means. 20 miles? 50? 100? 5? The Raleigh is kind of heavy and not ideal, but it's what you have so go for it. For riding it on the road, make sure the tires are pumped a higher than you would use for trail riding. You might want to get an inexpensive set of bar ends so you can use different hand positions while riding. You say you are in a rural area, so having the mtn bike means that you have the option of routes with some dirt roads and less traffic.

Fourth. You are not going to find a road bike that is in any way enjoyable to ride for under $300. What you are likely to find in that price range is something fairly old and used which will cost you money to have repaired and upgraded. So in the meantime ride what you have in order to start increasing your fitness, do some research, like you have started here, and save those dinars. A decent entry level road bike can be had for about $800. Go for frame quality over boutique wheels and higher end components as you can always upgrade those things in the future as you have more money. A good time to look around is late fall and winter as shops will be trying to sell off the previous model year's bikes.

Fifth. Don't be sold on "women's bikes." You are decent height and would most likely fit fine on a standard geometry bike. Sure, try some out, but don't limit yourself or have some shop guy say you HAVE to have a women's specific bike unless you have been measured. Go to competativecyclist.com and use their fit calculator. You will need a friend to help you take accurate measurements, but it will give you a good estimate of the size frame you need and a let you know if you have an unusually short or long torso, reach etc. I like the competativecyclist calculator because it gives results for three different fits and not just an aggressive "racing" fit.

Best of luck and to rip off Nike, just do it.


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## deborahtesta (Jul 21, 2007)

*Good for you, you should be proud!*

Hi-

First of all, I want to say BRAVO to you. A lot of people talk about their extra weight, however, more spend time spinning the wheels in their head trying to do something (rather than spinning with their feet)!

Secondly, I'd like to tell you a little bit about me. I'm a 50 year old women who started cycling about 12 years ago. I have fought off being extremely overweight since I was 8 years old, and cycling (along with watching calories) has helped me immensely in the battle. The only difficult part in past years was living in New Hampshire, where it was impossible to cycle in the winter. I used to gain 10-15 lbs each winter. Now, I do not have a excuse, as I live in Norther Fla. I am convinced that I'd be obese if it wasn't for cycling. I now ride between 90-150 miles/weekly and love the sport!

Now to answer your questions:

1) If you can afford it, purchase a used, comfortable road bike. In order to do this, you will need to know what size bike frame you would need. Your local cycle shop can help you with this. Then, I'd shop around online (ebay etc) and buy something decent. Having a good bike makes a HUGE difference in whether or not you will enjoy this sport. It's worth the investment,, and if you think of it in terms of buying a bike vs. joining a gym, your payback is less than a year. You should be able to get a decent used road bike for $500 if you shop around. A decent new road bike will cost around $1000. I sold a really good Cannondale bike a few years ago with the pedals and shoes for $450. I did it by word of mouth though our local cycling club.

2) According to how much you will ride: purchase 1 or two pair of good cycling shorts. This is something you need to invest in if you are going to cycle. My suggestion for brands is to purchase Shebeast or Pearl Izumi. Stay away from Cannondale. I have not had luck with durability with Cannondale shorts. They (Cannondale) cost a lot of $$ and fall apart in 6 months. A decent pair of shorts will run you between $60-$100. It's worth it. IMPORTANT: Don't worry about what you look like in the shorts. Get over it-- it's part of the sport and it keeps you comfortable. Anyway, looking in the mirror while you are wearing the shorts gives you motivation to ride and loose weight. I see dozens of heavy cyclists every week riding in their spandex! It's part of the sport.

3) Once you begin to put miles on, you will want to purchase cycle shoes and pedals. This is expensive, and you can hold off for a while on this. However, you really get maximum exercise when you have cycling pedals (because you can push the pedal down and pull it up). Pedals and cycling shoes will probably cost $200, so you may want to wait on this until you know that you really like cycling.

4) Another suggestion: find someone to ride with. It makes a difference. Try to find somebody who is a bit faster than you, but not so much faster that you are exhausted trying to keep up with him/her. 

5) Make sure you bring plenty of water- and drink before you are thirsty.

6) You will get very hungry after a long bike ride-- control yourself. Remember you are doing this to loose weight. I was talking to the head of a non-profit organization that has college students cycle across the country to raise $ for poverty housing. She told me that many of the cyclists gain weight after riding across the country because they think they can eat whatever they want. That just isn't the case.

That's about it.

Good luck. I'll be glad to answer any other questions you may have. Attached is a photo of my husband and me posing in front of our tandem in Mt. Dora, Florida.

Cheers!

Deb Testa


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## JayTee (Feb 3, 2004)

This is a great testimonial to the life-changing possibilities of cycling. I remember a woman on another cycling forum had a great sig: "Inside this fat person is a skinny person pedaling her way out" or something like that. I thought it was great, and I'm hope she met all her goals.


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## deborahtesta (Jul 21, 2007)

*Thx jay*

Thanks Jay

I think about how my life would be without cycling each & every day. I suspect it probably would be a lot like my older brother, John. Don't get me wrong, my brother is a great guy and I love him dearly. However, he is only 55 and has had to deal with Diabetes since he was 40, gout, high blood pressure and a bad valve in his heart (just to mention a few things). Given my family history, I suspect I'd be dealing with the same issues. 

For those who are thinking about cycling longer distances at an older age, I suggest that they go for a check up first to be sure it's ok. Before I started riding longer, strenuous rides (50+ miles, 19+ mph average speed on the tandem which is augmented by my high speed engine aka my husband, Gary), I decided to go to a cardiologist, given my family history. I had been riding 3/4 times at week for 5-6 years at this point, but my rides consisted of an 16 mile jaunt at an average speed of 13 mph. As part of my check-up, the cardiologist put a heart rate halter on me for 24 hours. Upon getting the report back, I was told that my heart did not miss one beat in 24 hours. I was also told this was very unusual, and that it could be attributed, in part, to regular aerobic exercise. 

Keep'em spinning everyone! It's a great way to stay healthy-- as long as the destination is not the ice cream shop!

Deb T


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