# Re-building a Felt F24 for my child



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I just bought a used Felt F24 frame and want to put some good quality components on it.

I need some help on what chain and cassette I should put on the back that'll be compatible with these BMX parts from Sinz that I plan to put on the front:

145mm Expert ISIS Cranks, 450g
Pro ISIS Titanium Bottom Bracket, 68mm wide, 113mm spindle length, BSA thread, 210g
Expert 5-Bolt Chainring, 47 teeth, 110-millimeter bolt pattern cranks, fit 3/32” or 1/8” chains, unknown mass.

The main problem is width of chain's roller and width of chain's sides. If I want to put a 9 or 10 speed modern SRAM cassette in the back. I suspect that many speeds will require a narrower chain that will not be compatible with the chainring that expects a 3/32” minimum roller width on the chain. Yet nowadays I can't find a separate chainring on 110mm BCD that works with the narrower chains. I think the ideal setup is to go with a top quality chainring that is designed to work with the chain and cassette.

I am not going to use a front derailleur, so that eliminates one potential fit problem.

I had to go with a BMX-based setup in the front mostly to get a good selection of short crank arms.

http://www.sinz-racing.com/product/SECA-14.html
http://www.sinz-racing.com/product/SBIT-01.html
http://www.sinz-racing.com/product/SEC-14.html


----------



## terbennett (Apr 1, 2006)

Nice frame for the little one. I'm in the market too and to be honest, I'm kinda disappointed at some components that come on some of these 24" road bikes for the money. Was contemplating upgrading but not sure it's worth the money. Maybe my 10 year old will just race ont he stock set up? I also noticed that Felt seems to be the only company selling 24" kids road bikes with a carbon fork. Go figure. I'm curious about this build. Mind keeping us (or me) updated on how it goes?


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

The chainring isn't all that big of a deal; a ten-speed chain will probably work with it. Of course, with a 110 bolt pattern, you can use any 110 chainring. There are tons of them on eBay. If your junior is going to race, you better make sure that the gears aren't too high or they'll fail roll-out. I like 46/13 max as that's easy to get.

I assume you've checked the chainline and know that the 113 spindle is best?

Sinz isn't the only supplier of short cranks; Redline makes a two-piece, Shimano outboard bearing compatible 160mm for when your junior is ready.


----------



## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> nowadays I can't find a separate chainring on 110mm BCD that works with the narrower chains


I don't know where you got that idea. With all the compact cranksets out there being used on 9- and 10-speed setups this shouldn't be any problem.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Yes you're right about availability of chainring. Just search for "sram chainring 110mm" on Amazon and I find a lot of them.

This coming weekend I'll have both the frame and the crank / BB / chainring from Sinz arriving from eBay seller BMX Guru.

I'll try fitting my brand new SRAM Red 2012 chainring to the Sinz crank. That chainring is for my own build, but hey, the kid's build comes first. If it fits, then I can just get a similar one but with fewer teeth for my kid's bike.

So check back here in a week.

A side goal is to be very specific about which piece I put on this frame that'll be usable on a larger frame when she grows up, and I think the chainring, rear cassette, shifter, and saddle will be the only pieces I can keep when I upgrade. If we get around to it, we'll experiment with various crank arm lengths to see which one feels the best.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I need to take the frame to the LBS tomorrow to have them clean out the BSA threads on the bottom bracket, or buy a Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tapping & Facing Set to do the job myself.

The SRAM chain PC1091R does fit on the Sinz chainring, but the SRAM chainring is certainly thinner than the Sinz.

So my plan is to get a good SRAM chainring that'll be usable on the next bike, and put that on the Sinz crank. Then it'll be a full SRAM drive train with a 9 or 10 speed cassette in the back. It certainly won't be a SRAM chainring that's this expensive. If they have less expensive ones that do not have allowances for a front derailleur, then that's the one I want.

Due to the problem with the damaged BSA threads, I have not been able to assemble the whole drive train to check the chain line.

But ... my daughter would most likely insist on the blue Sinz chainring since it matches the color of the frame, which is powder blue, a very nice color (it's super-saturated powder blue ... really nice). So I may get a chance to not spend money this time and just put a cheap BMX-style cassette in the back, and only the rear derailleur and shifter will be nice SRAM MTB units.

Here are the components we're trying to match:









Sinz crank with SRAM chainring, front view:









Sinz crank with SRAM chainring, back view:









Sinz crank with Sinz chainring:


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

myhui said:


> I need to take the frame to the LBS tomorrow to have them clean out the BSA threads on the bottom bracket, or buy a Park Tool Bottom Bracket Tapping & Facing Set to do the job myself.
> 
> The SRAM chain PC1091R does fit on the Sinz chainring, but the SRAM chainring is certainly thinner than the Sinz.
> 
> ...


Just let the shop clean the threads; it's a lot less expensive and they know how to do it.

The Sinz ring is fine. Since it's a 1x up front, there's no shifting, so nearly any 3/16" ring will be ok. The point of 9/10 speed rings is for shift ramps and pins to make shifting better.

And rather than fuss over it, just put it together and see what happens. Assuming that you're not going to coat the threads with epoxy, you can always change it if it turns out to be unsatisfactory.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

pmt said:


> Just let the shop clean the threads; it's a lot less expensive and they know how to do it.
> 
> The Sinz ring is fine. Since it's a 1x up front, there's no shifting, so nearly any 3/16" ring will be ok. The point of 9/10 speed rings is for shift ramps and pins to make shifting better.


The frame is at the shop now and they're working on the threads.

Meanwhile, what's a good, lightweight 7 or 8 speed cassette to put in the back if I run the Sinz chainring in the front? I know I can't run a latest state of the art 10 speed cassette since they require a narrow chain that won't work well with the Sinz chainring. The rear axle to BB center-to-center distance is also shorter than adult sized road bikes, so the chain skew will be worse.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

myhui said:


> The frame is at the shop now and they're working on the threads.
> 
> Meanwhile, what's a good, lightweight 7 or 8 speed cassette to put in the back if I run the Sinz chainring in the front? I know I can't run a latest state of the art 10 speed cassette since they require a narrow chain that won't work well with the Sinz chainring. The rear axle to BB center-to-center distance is also shorter than adult sized road bikes, so the chain skew will be worse.


I don't think you understand; the Sinz chainring is probably fine with 10-speed; just put it on and try it. You're not shifting the front, so it just doesn't matter.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

The BMX Guru staff says:


> " I do not have any rings that work with a 10-spd chain. The rings i sell only work with 5-6-7-8 speed chains."


I guess they mean the narrower chains that are mandatory to work with a 10-spd cassette may be too narrow to properly go on their BMX-style chainrings in the front?

Or do they mean something completely different: that the chainrings they sell do not support shifting in the front, since they lack the ramps and pins to aid that?

I have tried my SRAM Red chain on the Sinz chainring and it works fine, with a rather tight clearance between chain and ring. I was afraid the leading edge of the chain will slip off the chainring under (sideways) stress because it is so narrow.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

Dude, you're wayyyy overthinking this. Just put it together. See how it works. If unsatisfactory, then swap out the chaining. It will likely be just fine.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

You are right. I was checking out Weight Weenies to see which cassette is best. We call that _over-optimization_.

So let me go with this cassette, which is admirably light at 233g:

SRAM PG-950 9-Speed Cassette 12-26









But not necessarily from the above seller. I'll try to find it locally.

The very best from SRAM is 155g, so this 233g unit for $25 is a wonderful example of how spending US$200 to save 80g is insane.


----------



## unclemat (Sep 28, 2012)

Bump for updates!

Reason for my interest is that I bought a Redline Conquest 24 for my daughter. Right now I got it converted to a flat handlebar with gripshifters. The stock shifters are Shimano 2300 which are crap with the horrid thumb lever and long throw. When we go back to the dropbar config, I am thinking about putting SRAM (Apex) drivetrain on it, so that means conversion to the 10 speed in the back from the current 8 speed.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Here are the additional parts I'm going to add to the bike.

I measured her body according to the technique on Competitive Cyclist - Road and Mountain Bikes, Framesets, Cycling Apparel, Road Bike and Mountain Bike Components, Cycling Accessories and came up with the parts list: primarily the saddle to BB center distance, and saddle to handle bar distance.

Based on that, I realize the frame is already too small for her, but it can be remedied in the short term by using a very long seat post and an adjustable stem.

All of the following are from eBay seller *abaxo*, and the item number follows the part description So if you search for that item number, you'll see exactly what I bought.

Everything fits, but I have not actually completed the build yet. I am agonizing over whether to replace the heatset or not, since the old one has a lot of interference with the frame when I tried to put it on, so I have not tried to squeeze it into the head tube with my clamp yet.


Seller: abaxo ( 229366 )

Ritchey Adjustable Threadless Stem 120 120mm x 1-1/8"	( 110911740082 )
Paid on Oct-01-12 $28.87 $38.49 1 $28.87

THE SEAT ERGO ULTIMATE GEL BIKE BICYCLE SADDLE NEW	( 290749261194 )
Paid on Oct-01-12 $25.87 $17.83 1 $25.87

FSA ENERGY 31.8 ERGONOMIC ROAD BIKE HANDLEBAR BAR 42 cm	( 300620232661 )
Paid on Oct-01-12 $32.87 $12.83 1 $32.87

WELLGO WAM-D10 MAGNESIUM DH/MTB DOWNHILL PEDALS GREY W/ SHIMANO CLEATS	( 300747015951 )
Paid on Oct-01-12 $43.87 -- 2 $87.74

C-LITE FIXIE/TRACK/FIXED GEAR BIKE SEAT POST 27.2 BLUE	( 300771330460 )
Paid on Oct-01-12 $7.87 $7.83 1 $ 7.87

In addition to the above parts from eBay sellers, I am buying the following from my LBS:

SRAM PowerChain 991 Hollow Pin (9-Speed, Silver)
$39.99
SRAM PowerChain 991 Hollow Pin | SRAM

SRAM PowerGlide 970 9-Speed DH Cassette (11-26T)
$52.96
SRAM PowerGlide 970 DH Cassette | SRAM

SRAM X9 9-Speed Rear Derailleur
$76.74
SRAM X9 9-Speed Rear Derailleur | SRAM

The prices listed above are from another online retailer, and the LBS has come very close to their price. Notice I don't have shifters and brakes yet, since at that time we had not decided on what type of handlebar to use. Now my daughter has finally decided to use a traditional road bar, and that's why we bought the FSA road bar from the eBay seller.

Notice the rear cassette is a special "downhill" type, so its sprockets are smaller. I made sure the top gear can make the bike go fast enough, since my chainring is quite small, and remember these are 24" wheels, so they need to spin a lot faster to go at speed.

Finally, I do have an excuse for the delay in the build: I had to present this collection of parts to her on her birthday, which only happened very recently, and then we're going to start our build this weekend. I even bought a used bike repair stand for $50. It's a vintage Park Tools unit that looks very robust, something that would last decades in a shop.

As you can see from the parts above, some can definitely be used for many years, and some are items that I'll sell along with the bike when I do sell it. Or if the next owner wants it exactly like that, then those premium items should be worth some good money.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

myhui said:


> I am agonizing


You most certainly are. Good G-d, dude, you're talking about a bicycle here—basically a nice toy used for recreation. It's a lot of fun and you can derive much satisfaction from messing about with bikes. But there's no need to agonize over this stuff.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

wim said:


> You most certainly are. Good G-d, dude, you're talking about a bicycle here—basically a nice toy used for recreation. It's a lot of fun and you can derive much satisfaction from messing about with bikes. But there's no need to agonize over this stuff.


I unintentionally taught my child via example on how to build a bike.

Upon holding the Sinz crank arms for the first time, _and without knowing how heavy my own bike's crankarms are_, she immediately said "_this won't work ... it is way too heavy_."

I looked at her with big bulging eyes in disbelief.

I then had to explain that if we're going to try various crankarm lengths, this is the best compromise and the only reasonably-priced way to do it.

When I then pointed out that we have a hollow titanium spindle going through the BB, _and that's quite an exclusive part, my dear_, she still couldn't take her mind off the heavy Sinz crankarm.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

myhui said:


> _and that's quite an exclusive part, my dear_


Uh, hmmm, OK. Apparently, we live in different universes. Nothing wrong with that, of course.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

Well hurry up, man! We want to see pictures.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Do you think I can use this:

SRAM Rival DoubleTap® Controls

to control this:

SRAM X9 9-Speed Rear Derailleur

I am planning on getting SRAM Rival brakeset and controls, except I have already settled on the SRAM X9 Rear Derailleur with the 1:1 actuation ratio. Is that ratio compatible with SRAM's road bike controls?


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I am switching to a flat handlebar with MTB shifters for this build. The road handlebar and the expensive (but not yet purchased) controls will have to wait for the next build.

The cassette is on the freehub now. We will get the crankset and pedals all done today. *I will post pictures late tonight.*

Yes, my daughter really did tighten the cassette onto the freehub last night. She also complained that "_a child's bike should be lighter than an adult's bike_" when she weighed the X.9 cassette versus the Red cassette and indeed the weight difference was obvious.

The only road bike component that can be moved from this build to the next are the brake calipers.

Here are the remaining parts that have been ordered to complete the build:


*Niagara Cycle Works via Amazon.com:
*
SRAM X.9 Trigger Right/Rear 9-Speed Graphite '11 $52.11

Rockwerks Mountain Bike Downhill Riser-Bar 3D Black Bicycle Handlebar $20.21

SRAM 700 Flat Bar Brake Lever Set $34.00


*BikeTiresDirect.com:
*
SRAM Rival Black Brake Calipers $107.99

Jagwire Racer XL Complete Road Cable Kit Black Housing $50.99


----------



## unclemat (Sep 28, 2012)

When I had my daughter's Conquest 24 converted I chose to go with Shimano Revo grip shifters over SRAM. SRAMs are tough to move for small hands. While Shimano feel plasticky they move easily, work well, and have gear indicator window that's easy to see.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

unclemat said:


> Shimano Revo grip shifters over SRAM


Thanks very much for the tip. We did consider what type of shifter is best, actually, but my daughter specifically chose trigger shifters instead of grip shifters, since she's using grip shifters now on her small bike and she doesn't like them.

I just changed from:

Rockwerks Mountain Bike Downhill Riser-Bar 3D Black Bicycle Handlebar $20.21

to this:

TRUVATIV Stylo T20 Riser Bar

Since I just realized the clamp diameter I have is 31.8mm and the Rockwerks handlebar only fits a 25.4mm clamp. Using Truvativ also keeps this bike 100% SRAM.


----------



## unclemat (Sep 28, 2012)

Oops, I did not read carefully. SRAM triggers would be fine. It was the SRAM gripshifters she had issues with.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Pardon me here ... there won't be pictures posted tonight. We are behind schedule. Please give me another week.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

Awww, so she doesn't get a road bike. She wasn't planning to race anyway?


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

She is getting a road bike, of course. The MTB handlebars vs. classic drop handlebars can still be switched later on this bike. But that'll have to be switched along with the rear cassette, rear derailleur, and new matching controls on the handlebar. By the time we get around to that, she would have grown up enough to move to a small size frame, and that's when we go to a full road bike configuration. The main purpose of this bike is to learn to peddle efficiently, and that includes swapping different length crank arms.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

The bike is built: 15.5 lbs with everything but saddle and tires, and including pedals. This model of the frame does not include a carbon fork, so that makes quite a difference compared to what Felt is selling now. Pictures coming soon.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

She did a test ride tonight, and we both realized the handlebar reach is too far, and slightly too low. So I attempted to adjust the angle on the:

Ritchey Adjustable Threadless Stem 120 120mm x 1-1/8"	( 110911740082 )

But the hinge seized, rendering that $29 part useless.

I'll go get a used S-Works carbon stem tomorrow instead. $50 for a fixed-angle stem.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

myhui said:


> I'll go get a used S-Works carbon stem tomorrow instead. $50 for a fixed-angle stem.


Holy cow, you must be really wealthy!

I've got a whole drawerful of stems of various lengths and clamp sizes that I've collected off eBay. A good stem on eBay is $5 - $15 max. I cannot imagine any stem, unless it's less than 100 grams, being worth $50.

Heck, JensonUSA has stems for $10-$15.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

This model sells for $115 new, but discounted. It will last me a long time.


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

myhui said:


> This model sells for $115 new, but discounted. It will last me a long time.


Oh, you must be going for the "bling" factor. Nothing wrong with that, but it seems like an extra $30-$40 could be better spent elsewhere on the bike. Bling-factor is fun though.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

No I am not going for the bling factor.


----------



## logbiter (Sep 14, 2005)

or you can get a 25.4/26.0-31.8 shim for the handlebar. I got one for under $10 at my LBS, that they had kicking around.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

What?

I simply need a stem, fast.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I just found this U.S.-based manufacturer Wheels Manufacturing, Inc. and they have their products sold everywhere, or you can buy it from them directly.

They also sell this big poster that shows every single derailleur hanger they make, as a replacement for whatever bike you happen to need one for:

View attachment 280202


The Felt F24 hanger combined with the cassette / hub / derailleur I have won't reach the smallest cog, so now my SRAM X-9 system became an 8 speed. I suppose a new hanger that offsets the derailleur 9mm outboard would do the trick.

They even have titanium fasteners (sorry to resurrect the bling subject): Wheels Manufacturing Titanium Socket Head Screws

View attachment 280207


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

*Finally, some pictures*

View attachment 280608
View attachment 280609
View attachment 280605
View attachment 280606
View attachment 280607


----------



## atlr (Jun 1, 2013)

Looks great. 

What is the make/model of the saddle? [Just noticed that info was in you post about ebay]


----------



## atlr (Jun 1, 2013)

No-nose saddle info

The worlds most comfortable bike seat.

Where to find no-nose saddles


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

*This next iteration weights 19 lbs.
*
We changed the bike to use a FSA road handlebar, SRAM bar-end shifter, and brake-only levers from Shimano that's actually made in Japan, but must be the heaviest and lowest-ranking Shimano components on their catalog. The beautiful blue bar tape is Cinelli Gel Cork and it certainly is very comfortable.

The bar end shifter is still not that convenient though. For something that requires a twisting action, I would rather it be mounted on the downtube than on the handlebar.

This iteration is actually ridable. The geometry is very good. The previous one was a learning exercise that looked nice, but had unstable geometry due to a reach that was too short and a straight handlebar that was too low.

My daughter wrapped the handlebar tape three times. It took me that many times to get all the components onto the handlebar mounted just right, and she didn't mind re-wrapping it over and over again.

Terry Women's Bicycle Saddle | Terry Butterfly Ti Saddle | Bike Seat | Terry Bicycles

500 TT Shifter | SRAM

Ritchey Logic -


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

Now it looks like a road bike! Why not just get a single Rival shifter for the rear? Then she can start racing; the Junior girls fields need more participants.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I have the SRAM X-9 shifter now. By getting the Rival, are you suggesting that I switch to integrated brake/shift controls and not bother with the bar end shifter?

I have the matching cassette for the SRAM X-9 shifter, so I don't know how compatible will that be with the Rival shifter.


----------



## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

myhui said:


> I have the SRAM X-9 shifter now. By getting the Rival, are you suggesting that I switch to integrated brake/shift controls and not bother with the bar end shifter?
> I have the matching cassette for the SRAM X-9 shifter, so I don't know how compatible will that be with the Rival shifter.


Two things: It is hard to tell from the pic but is that a "compact" handlebar?
Most are about 75mm reach and 125mm drop; that in the pic looks bigger than that to me.

The other is that she may like Microshift short reach shift/brake levers.
Microshift short-reach shifters installed. Video demo inside

The set in the video cost $120 for both levers and they might sell you just one but I'd get both for consistency. She could use those same levers for many years.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks for the tip on the Microshift short reach shift/brake levers. They look ideal, but are they compatible with the rear der and cassette that I have now? I'm not against swapping out the rear der and cassette for a beginner's road group from SRAM. I might as well go that route and sell these X-9 series parts that are from their mountain bike group.

The handlebar was listed on Ebay as

FSA ENERGY 31.8 ERGONOMIC ROAD BIKE HANDLEBAR BAR 42 cm (300620232661)

They no longer keep the original listing.

If there is a compact handlebar I can use, please point me to it. I'm quite proficient at swapping components now. The only thing I'm slower at compared to a pro mechanic is I keep having to search for my tools.


----------



## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

myhui said:


> Thanks for the tip on the Microshift short reach shift/brake levers. They look ideal, but are they compatible with the rear der and cassette that I have now? I'm not against swapping out the rear der and cassette for a beginner's road group from SRAM. I might as well go that route and sell these X-9 series parts that are from their mountain bike group.
> FSA ENERGY 31.8 ERGONOMIC ROAD BIKE HANDLEBAR BAR 42 cm (300620232661)
> 
> If there is a compact handlebar I can use, please point me to it. I'm quite proficient at swapping components now. The only thing I'm slower at compared to a pro mechanic is I keep having to search for my tools.


The FSA bar you bought has a reach of 80mm and drop of 150 so a compact bar would put the drops (lower section) one inch higher.
You should measure across her shoulders (arm bone to arm bone); I bet those 42cm bars are way too wide for her. The narrowest I've seen are around 38cm but might be harder to find.
Nashbar has a FSA Omega compact bar for $20 but I see they're out of stock. Many companies make the "compact" style now, just look for about 75mm reach and 125mm drop.

I don't use Sram and can't say if they're compatible with the Microshift shifters. MS works with most standard road (and many mountain) Ds so I'd try them. MS also makes Ds and have a wide variety of models and price points. I think you can get the shift levers and both derailleurs for $200 or less.
What cassette and chainrings are on the bike?

You'll have to email Patrick to get pricing on the short-reach levers; he doesn't show them on his website.
Best Derailleur - Online Bike Store for Microshift Groupset Cycling Components


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I'll try to locate those compact road handlebars somehow. Thanks for the tip.

Let's say I start fresh and re-do the controls and cassette and rear der for this bike. I'll move those components to my 1994 vintage Raleigh AL-frame beater bike with almost rusted out Shimano 105 gruppo.

SRAM vs. Microshift

I need short reach controls, reasonably light weight, good price, and compatibility with the more expensive pieces from the same manufacturer so that I can upgrade each component separately.

Who has the edge for those requirements?


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

I'll ask Best Derailleur whether their

SB-R492(S) Short reach brake levers, for small hand​
will be able to control what I have on the bike now:

SRAM X9 9-Speed Rear Derailleur

SRAM PowerGlide 970 9-Speed DH Cassette (11-26T).​


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Best Derailleur replied that if I use their control and rear der, then it is compatible with the SRAM MTB cassette I now have on the bike.

They say that the pitch between freewheels are different for 9 and 10 speeds, but all 9 or 10 speeds have the same pitch for road or MTB groups from both Shimano or SRAM.

Hence the only thing I need to watch out for is how many speeds the control and rear der is designed for. Once I match that, then the whole system will work.


----------



## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

Great, sounds good!
How much do the shifters and RD cost? Ordering them?

She's going to have a really nice bike!


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Is this the compact handlebar you are referring to?

FSA Omega Compact Handlebar at BikeTiresDirect

Omega Compact Handlebar​
I have bought a lot of stuff from biketiresdirect, including many components for my own bike build, and they serve me well.


----------



## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

Yes, I used that bar as an example. It is a shame that Nashbar is out of stock, it was only $20 there. Performance has it for $39.

You understand that you need to get the narrowest you can? Don't know your daughters' size but they make that bar in 38cm wide.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Yes, I realize I want 38cm wide. But biketiresdirect only has 40cm wide bars.

Let me call up my LBS tomorrow and see what they can do.

As for the Microshift components, here's what I plan to get, and these are the prices quoted by patri[email protected]:

SB-R492S: $100
RD-R47S: $30
Shipping: $20 (~1 week delivery time)

These aren't exactly low priced units, mind you. $100 for a rear der? It better be good ...


----------



## Randy99CL (Mar 27, 2013)

The rear derailleur is $30, the shifters are $100; those are pretty good prices.
And I bet they are the best shifters you can get for her. She should love the bike.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Out on a ride last night, my daughter said: "this bike is so smooooth!"


----------



## pmt (Aug 4, 2009)

myhui said:


> Out on a ride last night, my daughter said: "this bike is so smooooth!"


Time to get her a racing license. Buy a License - USA Cycling


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

For a girl like her, being able to talk non stop throughout the ride is very important.

So that's what we did last night, riding side by side the whole way, talking non stop the whole way.

She kept her weight on the seat and handlebar, and put minimum weight on the pedals.


----------



## FeltF75rider (Feb 10, 2012)

Curious, what did it cost compared to just buying a new one at the LBS. I would love to do the same thing for my daughter but Tim the Toolman Taylor is alive and well in my brain. I really like the 2014 they have up on the Felt site. I could manage to spend twice that on a build just over thinking and buying stuff I would like and my daughter would care less.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Oh I am sure I have paid more for individual parts than if I had bought the pre-assembled bicycle brand new, latest model year, from the LBS, at list price.

This guy is a lot of fun: Tim Taylor (character) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I used the fit calculator here Fit Calculator - Competitive Cyclist to do initial sizing, and then bought components that will bring the rather-small frame to a size that fits my daughter.

I was caught up in the small crank arm craze, and I'm happy to report that my daughter says those crank arms specified by the fit calculator, which I installed onto the bike, are absolutely the perfect size.

Then I added some bling with titanium spindle and seat rails, and added the requisite Italian flair with Cinelli handlebar tape (the cork+gel variety ... _the latest_).

Really, that's it: start with the obvious requirement of the right geometry, then tweak the crank arm length, the seat's shape, seat's 2-D position, and you're done.

If you want to repeat my experience, first you have to find a bare F-24 frame. Or buy a complete F-24 and strip it down to start over again. My F-24 frame, bought used, included the usual hassle of partially stripped bottom bracket threads, which a very capable LBS expertly repaired. That's the long-lost skill of metal working, right? (but done by the LBS, not me) If the LBS's technician was Italian (which he wasn't), then we can heap on some more folklore.

I do have one remaining problem: the rear der won't go down to the smallest cog, since the der hanger is offset too far inboard. I'll have to find a hanger meant for another bicycle frame to fit onto this frame to solve this problem.


----------



## FeltF75rider (Feb 10, 2012)

Thank you for posting this build I am gong to keep a eye out for a frame. I think the whole experience would be a fun way to get some memories and maybe inspire her. May be she could go pro some day and buy her Dad that dream bike.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Don't talk about how to ride while you're riding, at least not after the first serious ride. Tell her how to ride before you go riding.

Then, while you're riding, talk about all sorts of things completely unrelated to bicycle riding.

My daughter now looks forward to that conversation. The fact that it's done on a bicycle is of secondary importance.


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

myhui said:


> Then, while you're riding, talk about all sorts of things completely unrelated to bicycle riding.


I can second that. My father taught me how to ride a bike, did many a long tour with me and then got me into bicycle racing. But whenever the conversation turned to the technical side of cycling (gearing, hub bearing adjustment, chain lubing etc.), it bored me and gave me notions of chucking the whole sport. As a kid, I wanted to test my muscles, not fiddle around with little metal pieces and get slimy oil or grease all over me. Around 16 years old, I did get interested in mechanical things.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Our destination usually is to go shopping for some supplies she needs for her projects, and that provides plenty of motivation to get on the bicycle and go.

On the return trip, we usually do a sprint during the last block, TdF style.


----------



## myhui (Aug 11, 2012)

Yesterday she experienced an epic blowout on the front tire. It was partly my fault, as it was over inflated to 110psi. But she managed to slow down from about 20mph.


----------

