# Quill to threadless?



## chowdownca (May 31, 2007)

This maybe a silly question, but is it possible to change a frame with a 1" headtube currently set up with quill stem/headset/fork configuration to threadless? I imagine it would involve a new fork, headset and stem. I was just wondering if it was possible. The frame is in pretty good shape and don't really want to part with it. Thanks for any help!


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Yup. It's common, but it is harder to find the requisite 1" fork than the more common 1 1/8". I've done it to several bikes.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

You don't need a new fork and headset if you like the ones you have.

The quill-to-threadless adapter is pretty common, and mine has been trouble-free. It looks a little kludgey, but I can't feel a problem. I kicked myself for waiting so long, actually - it let me use handlebars I like a lot better.


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## Allez Rouge (Jan 1, 1970)

Velo Orange has what you need. Profile Designs and others make similar adapters. I bought one on eBay because I needed a longer usable length (above the minimum insertion line) than I was able to find elsewhere.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

AndrwSwitch said:


> You don't need a new fork and headset if you like the ones you have.
> 
> The quill-to-threadless adapter is pretty common, and mine has been trouble-free. It looks a little kludgey, but I can't feel a problem. I kicked myself for waiting so long, actually - it let me use handlebars I like a lot better.


Just so we're clear, using these adapaters doesn't make your bike "threadless". They just make a threadless stem into a heavy and expensive quill stem, without gaining any of the weight or simplicty advantages of threadless. Considering there are quill stems with removable faceplates, I don't see that advantage in doing this.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

rx-79g said:


> Just so we're clear, using these adapaters doesn't make your bike "threadless". They just make a threadless stem into a heavy and expensive quill stem, without gaining any of the weight or simplicty advantages of threadless. *Considering there are quill stems with removable faceplates, I don't see that advantage in doing this.*


There aren't any (that I'm aware of) 1" quill stems that accept 31.8mm bars.

Also, 1" threadless forks are pretty hard to find. I have a new aluminum one here in the shop, but I can't find a decent carbon one anywhere.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

PlatyPius said:


> There aren't any (that I'm aware of) 1" quill stems that accept 31.8mm bars.
> 
> Also, 1" threadless forks are pretty hard to find. I have a new aluminum one here in the shop, but I can't find a decent carbon one anywhere.


And you can't find any threadless stems that accept Cinelli 26.4 bars. But you do seem to be suggesting that the 31.8 bars are so superior to other bars that someone would get them to mate to heavy threaded fork, headset and quill adapter. There's plenty of good 26.0 and other quill standard bars out there, so this is an unnecessary scenerio.

I believe Wound Up has a carbon tubed one available. Probably Kinesis, too.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

Why?

There are still plenty of nice quill and 26.0 bars on the market. Stems may be a challenge for some models but nothing that a healthy wallet won't cure. Many of the 31.8 bars did have a companion bend in 26.0 before the trend went oversized. Not all models though enough are comparable. 

In the case of forks...Nasbar at one time had a CF fork with AL or threaded steerer available. Rx-79g mentioned the two I saw a spell back while looking online. Might also come across a stray Easton on auction. There was a Mizuno for the GIOS compact.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

Kuma601 said:


> Why?
> 
> There are still plenty of nice quill and 26.0 bars on the market. Stems may be a challenge for some models but nothing that a healthy wallet won't cure. Many of the 31.8 bars did have a companion bend in 26.0 before the trend went oversized. Not all models though enough are comparable.
> 
> In the case of forks...Nasbar at one time had a CF fork with AL or threaded steerer available. Rx-79g mentioned the two I saw a spell back while looking online. Might also come across a stray Easton on auction. There was a Mizuno for the GIOS compact.


Well, threadless forks, headsets and stems are lighter and simpler to adjust and service. It wouldn't be difficult to cut 400 or more grams off the total bike weight - which is not inconsiderable - that's what a whole carbon for weighs.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

rx-79g said:


> And you can't find any threadless stems that accept Cinelli 26.4 bars. *But you do seem to be suggesting that the 31.8 bars are so superior to other bars that someone would get them to mate to heavy threaded fork, headset and quill adapter.* There's plenty of good 26.0 and other quill standard bars out there, so this is an unnecessary scenerio.
> 
> I believe Wound Up has a carbon tubed one available. Probably Kinesis, too.


I didn't suggest anything. I merely pointed out reasons why a person would want a 1" threadless stem and maybe not a threadless fork. If the bar they want is only available in 31.8, then what other choices do they have?


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

PlatyPius said:


> I didn't suggest anything. I merely pointed out reasons why a person would want a 1" threadless stem and maybe not a threadless fork. If the bar they want is only available in 31.8, then what other choices do they have?


I guess they'd have to find a different bar that is nearly identical to the 31.8 one. There is probably no single component with more choices than handlebars. Name brand, off brand, new, NOS, used, etc.

But my point was that a highly technical, superlight 31.8 specialty bars are going to be a weird fit on a threaded forked bike. This is like worrying about finding carbon fiber soled shoes for toe strap pedals.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I wanted a compact bend drop bar with a little flare. I found a few different models like that in a 31.8 clamp, but none in a 26.0 or 25.4. So I dragged my feet for a while and kept searches on EBay going for a quill stem with a 31.8 clamp, but those were made for about a year and I got tired of waiting. Now I have the bar I wanted at a much lower cost than replacing my entire fork and headset.

When I finish the current round of education, I'd like to put my competition bikes on a 3-year upgrade cycle. Until then, I'm living with the occasional kludge.


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## brucew (Jun 3, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> 1" threadless forks are pretty hard to find. I have a new aluminum one here in the shop, but I can't find a decent carbon one anywhere.


Wound Up Road Fork I have it in 1" threadless Carbon steerer with the optional fender eyelets, and Cane Creek S2 headset. Also available with a 1" steel steerer, in either threaded or threadless.

Absolutely wonderful fork, BTW. I like it better than either the Time Carbon/Vectran (1" steel threaded) on my Litespeed or the Easton EC30 (1" steel threaded) on my Peloton. There's no side-to-side wiggly-jiggly when cornering hard on rough pavement. It tracks where I point it, not where the road tries to push it around.


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## chas0039 (Jun 26, 2007)

I made the switch on an older steel frame that I wanted to change to a drop bar. I needed a stem that was only available in threadless. I had very good luck getting an adapter from Niagracycle.com. The changeover went like a charm.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

I just changed one of my bikes with a 1" head tube to a stem that will accommodate 31.8 bars. It's very easy to do & easy to find the needed adapter. It works fine, but you should know that the part of the adapter that fits down into the head tube is really heavy. If that's a concern you might want to pursue a different option.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

rx-79g said:


> Well, threadless forks, headsets and stems are lighter and simpler to adjust and service. It wouldn't be difficult to cut 400 or more grams off the total bike weight - which is not inconsiderable - that's what a whole carbon for weighs.


I realize the potential but in the case of the OP? 

Seems like a damaged or busted fork. Which case, still can find a suitable steel to drop back in and not have the expense of the conversion. Fork a given but add in headset, stem, and bars. That 1/2-1 pound savings is $. If climbing...yeah, good point but still some light wheels add in to the equation. 

26.0 bars are less, I've not had too much a problem hunting down similar bends. Even threadless stems are still available to accommodate a 26.0 bar. When I had the Nashbar CF fork on the bike, it instantly knocked off about 1/2# while still using a quill stem set-up. Just didn't look right with a skinny tubed steel frame.


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## orlin03 (Dec 11, 2007)

The quil stem on my commuter has a removable faceplate and is 31.8. I have an adapter in there to run a 26 bar, since it was the cheapest 38cm drop bar I could find at the time. The stem is from the Kent Denali (the Walmart bike that comes with the deathwish two-piece bars).


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## evs (Feb 18, 2004)

*I did this conversion....*

I did that conversion. I have a Cinelli 26.0 bar that I didn't want to replace 
and found that Syntace had a nice light stem (Force 139 26.0) for my bar. 
I got the Forte Axis Pro Carbon threadless fork which is made by Kinesis @ 1" steerer tube. Kinesis has other options as well. Good to go.Throw in a nice 1" Chris King headset and I was ready to roll threadless.  No adapters , no shims and not that much moola.


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## JoWu (Feb 9, 2008)

rx-79g said:


> But my point was that a highly technical, superlight 31.8 specialty bars are going to be a weird fit on a threaded forked bike. This is like worrying about finding carbon fiber soled shoes for toe strap pedals.


I don't get this argument. I have one of those "super light" bars on my 1999 Trek 5200. It has a threaded fork with an adaptor for a "super light" stem and an FSA compact bar.
Doesn't look any different than a 2010 bike.


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## rx-79g (Sep 14, 2010)

JoWu said:


> I don't get this argument. I have one of those "super light" bars on my 1999 Trek 5200. It has a threaded fork with an adaptor for a "super light" stem and an FSA compact bar.
> Doesn't look any different than a 2010 bike.


Because you spent bank on a high end "superlight" bar, only to combine it with a very heavy adapter.

So, you spent a bunch of money to get the same or worse weight of an old quill stem and 26mm bar. You'll pardon me if I don't see the logic.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

brucew said:


> Wound Up Road Fork I have it in 1" threadless Carbon steerer with the optional fender eyelets, and Cane Creek S2 headset. Also available with a 1" steel steerer, in either threaded or threadless.
> 
> Absolutely wonderful fork, BTW. I like it better than either the Time Carbon/Vectran (1" steel threaded) on my Litespeed or the Easton EC30 (1" steel threaded) on my Peloton. There's no side-to-side wiggly-jiggly when cornering hard on rough pavement. It tracks where I point it, not where the road tries to push it around.


I didn't even know Wound-Up was still around... I'll add that to my cache of "seldom-needed, but critical when it is" knowledge.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

Maybe he wants new bars. 26.0 bars can still be found, but there's a limited selection. That's why I changed mine. I knew exactly which bars I wanted and they were only made in 31.8.


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## JoWu (Feb 9, 2008)

rx-79g said:


> Because you spent bank on a high end "superlight" bar, only to combine it with a very heavy adapter.
> 
> So, you spent a bunch of money to get the same or worse weight of an old quill stem and 26mm bar. You'll pardon me if I don't see the logic.


You really make assumptions there. My adapter and stem weigh less than the original quill stem. I have more adjustability, have many choices of stem lengths and many more choices of bars. Just accept the fact that there are more than one solution to every problem. And although it is a 12 year old bike (Treck 5200) it is not outclassed too much by my Parlee Z4.


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## chowdownca (May 31, 2007)

The main reason that I was considering the switch to threadless was to lose some of the weight off the front. The frame is an older Cannondale that I got used and I'm using to "introduce" myself to road cycling after years of trying to destroy myself off road. The frame is in pretty good shape and would allow me to spend money on upgrades that I find make the ride more comfy. I'm not sure what bars, if any, I'd be switching to (as I'm sure the Midges on my MTB would be a little out of place) but I'm going to try the 42s that are on there before I make any changes. I would consider myself a noob as far as the road components are concerned, so it'll all be a learning process. The current stem is a CODA with removable faceplate. The fork is the carbon, painted to match stock one and appears to be in good shape. I wasn't sure if quill stems were even still available anymore(ha!). I appreciate all the information that you guys have offered up. Sounds like my upgrade-itis might be better served by focusing on the drivetrain (105 8-sp) or the wheels (Shimano paired spoke) first. Thanks again!


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

If it's about weight loss, I'm with rx-79g. Look for a lightweight quill stem (there are still plenty available) and lightweight bar with the right clamp size.

Weigh what you have before you get crazy, though. You should know if, and how many grams you're actually saving before spending money.

IMO, unless there's something actually wrong with the wheels or drivetrain, or you're starting to finish near the front in races and time trials, you're not going to see a whole lot of improvement. (You wouldn't see much improvement then either, but those last few watts start to mean more.) Making the bike fit you right and nice tires if it's got crappy ones are another story, though. Basically the same deal as mountain bikes.


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## evs (Feb 18, 2004)

*What's the diameter of the 42s?*

just wondering what type of set up you might need. I'm guessing the 42s are the width of the bar? I'm no expert so I was wondering if a bike has a quill stem, does that automatically mean the bars on there are a specific diameter? In other words, do all quill stems take only 26.0 bars?  





chowdownca said:


> The main reason that I was considering the switch to threadless was to lose some of the weight off the front. The frame is an older Cannondale that I got used and I'm using to "introduce" myself to road cycling after years of trying to destroy myself off road. The frame is in pretty good shape and would allow me to spend money on upgrades that I find make the ride more comfy. I'm not sure what bars, if any, I'd be switching to (as I'm sure the Midges on my MTB would be a little out of place) but I'm going to try the 42s that are on there before I make any changes. I would consider myself a noob as far as the road components are concerned, so it'll all be a learning process. The current stem is a CODA with removable faceplate. The fork is the carbon, painted to match stock one and appears to be in good shape. I wasn't sure if quill stems were even still available anymore(ha!). I appreciate all the information that you guys have offered up. Sounds like my upgrade-itis might be better served by focusing on the drivetrain (105 8-sp) or the wheels (Shimano paired spoke) first. Thanks again!


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## Kai Winters (Aug 23, 2009)

I converted from a 1" quill to a 1 1/8" threadless quite a few years ago. It was very easy and while adding some weight it is not noticeable at all.
I bought a converter, which basically is a 1" diameter post that goes into the head tube/steerer tube. The top of the post is 1 1/8" allowing for any 1 1/8" stem. It is height adjustable the same way a 1" quill type stem is adjustable...expander on the bottom of the post with a long threaded allen key bolt to secure it at the top. 
I use a couple of carbon spacers between the bottom of my stem and top of the head set to give it a smooth look.
I use any handlebar I want.

Looks perfectly fine to me and has not changed the front end handling or ride characteristics at all.


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## SilverStar (Jan 21, 2008)

evs said:


> just wondering what type of set up you might need. I'm guessing the 42s are the width of the bar? I'm no expert so I was wondering if a bike has a quill stem, does that automatically mean the bars on there are a specific diameter? In other words, do all quill stems take only 26.0 bars?


No, quill stems were available in 25.4 (old, usually low-end road bikes with some exceptions as well as mountain bikes until the threadless standard came along), 26.0 (lots more road bikes from vintage to the late 90s/early 00s), 26.4 (Cinelli bars and stems) and apparently 31.8, although I've never seen one of those in person.


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## Kuma601 (Jan 22, 2004)

The quill stems I have vary in weight from ~275-310 grams. (Mine range from 110-130mm) 

From what I see online for posted weights, a Profile adapter is 160g, a modest threadless stem 180g so nearly a wash if not a tad heavier. Granted, the ease at swapping stems is far nicer with threadless. That alone is a nice benefit and the cost of stems has a wide range to make it reasonable. 

The C-dale with the large tubes, a threadless stem blends right in. I say :thumbsup:


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## chowdownca (May 31, 2007)

The simplicity of swapping stems to get that "just right" fit was the original reason for considering threadless. Having taken a while to find the right position for everything on my drop bar MTB was what led me to thinking that I might want the ease of stem swapping. I had already planned on going to my LBS to see what a fitting would cost. Because I'm good with them, they might apply the cost towards what it would take to get the thing comfy (new quill stem, seat, 25's, etc). After dropping significantly more in "trial and error" with my MTB, I decided that it's time to let the pros do what do and tell me if my angles are all wrong or what. From there, suggestions can be made and parts ordered. I'm overweight, but can touch my toes. Have been riding for years, but married life and it's associated obligations have limited my time some. Now, the wife understands that I need cycling like she needs a platinum card (hahahaha!!) so I'm trying something new. I appreciate all the info you folks have offered up. An invaluable resouce, I tell ya! Thanks!


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## PolarBearB4 (Sep 23, 2012)

I'm a bit new to this sport so some of the terminology is a bit over my head.

I have a 2001 56 cm trek with the quil-style fork. I need to be riding something a little bigger. I added a new seatpost to fix that issue but I was told at my LBS finding a new quil fork to raise my handlebars and push them out a further is next to impossible.

I looked at the Velo orange threadless stem adapter and that made sense. The Wound Up Fork was entirely over my head.

I honestly have no idea how the fork comes out, but I know that the handlebars with the quil stem get put in the tube then you tighten it so the quil expands. I'm comfortable with wrenching, changing shifters, adding new cables, adjusting derailieurs and brakes. Haven't messed with the fork itself though.

So I could see how taking the handlebars out and adding the threadless stem adapater would help, I don't understand how I would add a different length fork. Or is that what the LBS was saying? Does the fork length actually matter for the riding position? Or do I just need the threadless adapter so I can add a stem to change the height and length away of the handlebars?

I know the best case would probably be get a new bike, but my wife has my wallet rather locked down (I've been spending waaay too much money lately!) I got a 56cm because a LBS that is very MTB oriented fitted me, then I found another shop big in to road biking and they said 58cm and after I learn to ride a little better and get better positioning (because of my odd dimensions) I may need a 59/60cm. Again, really new here, so I don't see why the 2-4cm would make a huge difference. Searching the forums most people agree that a smaller bike is a lot better to work with than a larger one.

Anyway, back to my real question: Do I need to find a new fork and adapter? Or will just getting the threadless adapter fix the handlebar height / length issue on its own?

Thanks everyone


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

PolarBearB4 said:


> I don't understand how I would add a different length fork.


Forget the adapter and the "different length fork." If you (as you seem to say) have a threaded fork with a quill-stem coming out of it, the only realistic way to raise your handlebars and bring them away from you a little more is to replace the stem you have now with one that has a longer quill (shaft) as well as a longer extension (horizontal part that ends with the handlebar clamp).

These stems are widely available. You need to make sure the quill fits into your fork steerer tube (almost certainly 22.2 mm diameter) and the clamp fits your handlebar (could be 25.4 or 26.0 mm). The Nitto Tallux stem at the link would probably work for you, but there are other and more economical tall stems out there. The $18 stem riser looks sketchy to me, but this is just an educated guess. I have no experience with those.

Nitto Stems from Rivendell Bicycle Works


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I have something like the V-O adapter. Part of my choice was that I wanted a different handlebar clamp size, but it's been working very well for me. I wouldn't discount that type of adapter as an option. You'd still need to buy a threadless stem to go with it, but you wouldn't need a new fork.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I wouldn't discount that type of adapter as an option. You'd still need to buy a threadless stem to go with it, but you wouldn't need a new fork.


It is an option, sure. My thought was only that PolarBear wants to raise his handlebars much higher than one of these adapters would allow him to do. The longish VO adapter would give him a maximum of 110 mm above the minimum insertion line. I'm guessing that this is not enough for what PolarBear wants to do. But yes, it is just a guess.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

I think the best option is for PolarBear to buy the proper size bike. Making a too-small bike fit is going to compromise safety and/or comfort. Some shops take trade-ins. I do.

Failing that, wim's advice is good. Go for the Nitto stem: it's a better quality stem than some of the cheapies you might find. It's a little less flexy. Keep in mind that any tall quill stem is going to flex like an overcooked linguine noodle - the Nitto is just better than the others.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

e-bay is your friend.
Check the link for an assortment of 1" carbon forks.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=carbon+fork1"&_sacat=57262&_odkw=carbon+fork&_osacat=57262


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

*Restoring a 1975 Schwinn Le Tour for a more modern look...*

Hi everyone my name is Jeff.I have been working on my bike for sometime with little experience and had came across a problem that have had me clueless for a while lol. Now here's the problem my bike originally used the quil stem system, and I wanted to convert that to a 1-1/8 steering tube with a 700c fork. My biggest question is can it be done.? I know this have probably been asked before but like I said I'm new to this. I have already started purchasing some parts, I will list them below.

- Weinmann Dp18 flip flop wheels (700c)
- FSA compressor 1-1/8
- FSA CE headset 1-1/8
- Pedal Force carbon fork (700c)

I called myself applying the parts but it seems that there's something missing due to the fact of the looseness of the steering tube.I guess this is the type of problems you face when you are a hands on guy and want to get yhe job done yourself lol.Does anyone have any resourceful information other than going to a bike shop..? I also have pics that I will post later.


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## zentao (May 30, 2006)

TwoWheelz said:


> Hi everyone my name is Jeff.I have been working on my bike for sometime with little experience and had came across a problem that have had me clueless for a while lol. Now here's the problem my bike originally used the quil stem system, and I wanted to convert that to a 1-1/8 steering tube with a 700c fork. My biggest question is can it be done.? I know this have probably been asked before but like I said I'm new to this. I have already started purchasing some parts, I will list them below.
> 
> - Weinmann Dp18 flip flop wheels (700c)
> - FSA compressor 1-1/8
> ...


You can't turn a 1" threaded (quill) into 1-1/8". 

I had a very nice custom quill stem welded to go with my frame; this stem accepts modern handlebars. Another option is Ti Cycles - their quills will accept modern bars as well.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

Ok maybe I worded my question wrong. I'm not trying to turn a 1" stem to a 1-1/8. I have a Ritchey Pro 4 axis carbon stem that's 1-1/8 and as well as a fork that has a steering tube that's 1-1/8. At first the fork wouldn't fit so I had the original cups removed and the inside of the head tube sanded for a smooth fit. Now the fork goes in perfect, but since I removed the cups are their reducers that can take their place and is that probably why it's so loose.


zentao said:


> You can't turn a 1" threaded (quill) into 1-1/8".
> 
> I had a very nice custom quill stem welded to go with my frame; this stem accepts modern handlebars. Another option is Ti Cycles - their quills will accept modern bars as well.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

Here are some pics...



TwoWheelz said:


> Hi everyone my name is Jeff.I have been working on my bike for sometime with little experience and had came across a problem that have had me clueless for a while lol. Now here's the problem my bike originally used the quil stem system, and I wanted to convert that to a 1-1/8 steering tube with a 700c fork. My biggest question is can it be done.? I know this have probably been asked before but like I said I'm new to this. I have already started purchasing some parts, I will list them below.
> 
> - Weinmann Dp18 flip flop wheels (700c)
> - FSA compressor 1-1/8
> ...


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

As has already been mentioned, you can't use a 1-1/8" fork in a 1" headtube. You can either buy a new frame, or play with your fork by itself.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

Are there any vintage bikes that will fit a 1-1/8 fork...


PlatyPius said:


> As has already been mentioned, you can't use a 1-1/8" fork in a 1" headtube. You can either buy a new frame, or play with your fork by itself.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

And if I'm not mistaking is it vice verse...That you can't fit a 1-1/8 to a 1" head tube, but you can convert a 1-1/8 head tube to fit a 1"..?


PlatyPius said:


> As has already been mentioned, you can't use a 1-1/8" fork in a 1" headtube. You can either buy a new frame, or play with your fork by itself.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

TwoWheelz said:


> Are there any vintage bikes that will fit a 1-1/8 fork...


No. Not road bikes, at least.
Mountain bikes switched to 1-1/8" from 1" in the 80s or 90s - I don't remember which.

Road bikes went from 1" quill to 1" threadless. It wasn't until the 2000s that I first started seeing 1-1/8" on road bikes.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

Thanks man I appreciate the knowledge. You just save me some money cause I was gonna try and by a reducer lol. But hey got to admit it would have been a bad ass bike.But now I could just start looking for a new frame.


PlatyPius said:


> No. Not road bikes, at least.
> Mountain bikes switched to 1-1/8" from 1" in the 80s or 90s - I don't remember which.
> 
> Road bikes went from 1" quill to 1" threadless. It wasn't until the 2000s that I first started seeing 1-1/8" on road bikes.


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## Andy M-S (Feb 3, 2004)

"Well, threadless forks, headsets and stems are lighter and simpler to adjust and service. It wouldn't be difficult to cut 400 or more grams off the total bike weight - which is not inconsiderable - that's what a whole carbon for weighs."

+/-

It's true that it's easier to adjust the headset preload with a threadless setup. But for adjusting the stem itself? I think a quill system makes that much easier. Up/down/angles. And the nice thing is that unlike a threadless setup, none of those adjustments require readjusting the headset.

As for the weight, that's certainly true. But you'd better be certain that you have the height set correctly when you make the cut...


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## PolarBearB4 (Sep 23, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I believe I'm going to go with "buy the right size bike" I'm looking at picking up a 2011 Trek 2.1 or a 2012 Cannondale Synapse 5 Alloy 105. 

I figure whichever one feels better on the test ride, though looking at the geo charts they look very similar.

Again, thanks for the help everyone. I think I'll just pass the 56cm to the wife.


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## s.warneke (Mar 3, 2010)

It's a pretty easy switch. I bought a 1in carbon fork (with aluminum steerer tube) from Nashbar for my late 80's Trek 400. Nashbar doesn't really have the lightest carbon products around, so the new fork only weighed only a tiny bit less than the old steel fork. But that's okay, because my old quill stem and handlebar setup was terribly heavy, so the weight saving really came from the use of a modern stem (with shim to make a standard 1 1/8 stem fit on a 1 inch steerer tube) and modern compact bars.


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## TwoWheelz (Oct 27, 2012)

Can I see pics of your bike if possible...


s.warneke said:


> It's a pretty easy switch. I bought a 1in carbon fork (with aluminum steerer tube) from Nashbar for my late 80's Trek 400. Nashbar doesn't really have the lightest carbon products around, so the new fork only weighed only a tiny bit less than the old steel fork. But that's okay, because my old quill stem and handlebar setup was terribly heavy, so the weight saving really came from the use of a modern stem (with shim to make a standard 1 1/8 stem fit on a 1 inch steerer tube) and modern compact bars.


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## s.warneke (Mar 3, 2010)

Yeah, I'll post some once I find the photos!


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