# Newbie purchase question



## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

I'm a long time road/mtb rider interested in road fixie SS for
2014 

Current Road bike is a generic Chinese Carbon frame & fork built up around 5 years ago; FSA compact cranks and front der.; dura ace brake/shifter and rear der.; wheels self built ZTR Alpha rims laced with Sapim race spokes to Ultegra hubs, run tubeless with Hutchinson Intensive tires. 
Mtb bikes: one 2010 aluminum Jamis 650b; one 2013 carbon Santa Cruz Tall boy; one circa 1990's Ted Wojcik steel frame built as SS with 26" wheels geared @ 32:17. 

Lotta coin invested in bike stable. Question is whether it is a horrible idea to cheap out on bike with Fixie/SS flip hub. Dozens of listings on Flea Bay for generic steel frame bikes w/ generic components for less than $2-300. Of course I know you get what you pay for, but wife will flay me if I bring home another high ticket bike. The Tall Boy set me back over $4k last spring. An el cheapo fixie could be smuggled past her. But I don't want to kill myself or be pissed off for going Wallmart. 

Suggestions and advice wanted. TIA.


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## DasBoost (Aug 15, 2013)

dwt said:


> I'm a long time road/mtb rider interested in road fixie SS for
> 2014
> 
> Current Road bike is a generic Chinese Carbon frame & fork built up around 5 years ago; FSA compact cranks and front der.; dura ace brake/shifter and rear der.; wheels self built ZTR Alpha rims laced with Sapim race spokes to Ultegra hubs, run tubeless with Hutchinson Intensive tires.
> ...


I'd say there's a difference between cheap and inexpensive. I snagged a '14 SE Lager as a runaround bike since I didn't want to risk my (for me) expensive bike while running errands or going to friends (and carrying a second set of shoes or swap pedals). I don't see anything wrong with getting an inexpensive fixed/SS bike personally. I got it from PB (LBS was asking $675 for Trek District 5), got it on sale, was the right size, and works well as basic A-->B transportation. The brick red color and comfortable ride with 28c tires are added bonuses. The only thing I don't know is the long-term reliability of it, but everything else as far as build quality and fit/finish seems good to go and nice. 

I spent a lot of time on this forum reading through and looking at other members' fixed/SS builds and am happy with what I've got and, if anything, this is an inexpensive way to dip my toes in the water and see what I like/don't like and what I'd change.


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## Schneiderguy (Jan 9, 2005)

Bikes Direct has good prices and often sales. Lot of guys on bikeforum.com buy from BDs. No choices as to components and don't know about CS.


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## MGear4817 (Dec 19, 2013)

Just avoid State Bicycle they are generally considered crap. I was in the same boat as you just a few weeks ago and researched a lot of options. Almost settled on a leader heritage lo which is still on sale for half price. However. I decided to go a little more custom with a build from factory five. I went a little overboard but I'm really happy with how it turned out.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

I cheaped out with an eBay deal. My son told me to get a Windsor at bicyclewharehouse.com and said "good luck" with the clunker I got. Figure I'll swap the fat saddle with a real one, swap out brakes for Ultegra, and hope against hope I don't end up with my kid saying "told ya so." Of course his Windsor was stolen by some hipster in Oakland CA. Few hipsters where I live, upstate NY, and bike thefts rare, even fully decked out 14 pound carbon ego bikes. So who's gonna take a clunky fixie? I think it will serve its purpose


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## DasBoost (Aug 15, 2013)

dwt said:


> I cheaped out with an eBay deal. My son told me to get a Windsor at bicyclewharehouse.com and said "good luck" with the clunker I got. Figure I'll swap the fat saddle with a real one, swap out brakes for Ultegra, and hope against hope I don't end up with my kid saying "told ya so." Of course his Windsor was stolen by some hipster in Oakland CA. Few hipsters where I live, upstate NY, and bike thefts rare, even fully decked out 14 pound carbon ego bikes. So who's gonna take a clunky fixie? I think it will serve its purpose


Congrats on the new bike/project! :thumbsup: I'd lean towards the People's republic of Bezerkley being more 'hipster'-esque than Oakland.


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## Kalukis (Jan 13, 2005)

I bought a Bianchi Pista 10 years ago and was very happy with in. Unfortunately, the frame broke after 20K miles. I know have a Soma Rush with which I am very happy. The frame is probably 2x what you would pay for a cheap one but it is worth the money.

I meant "safer". That's how I sell my wife on projects.


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## jrm (Dec 23, 2001)

I probably have about $400 worth of wheels and frame/headset into my one-one pompino SS bike. The rest came from the bin and swaps. It sure is fun


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I picked up a secondhand Raleigh Rush Hour a couple years ago. It doesn't see a lot of street miles but so far, so good.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

Next question: toe clips or Velcro straps?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Mine has the same pedal system as my other road bikes - Speedplays.

One hears horror stories about people breaking single straps. So I guess a toe clip with double straps would be my next pick.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Mine has the same pedal system as my other road bikes - Speedplays.
> 
> One hears horror stories about people breaking single straps. So I guess a toe clip with double straps would be my next pick.


If I were a track bike racer, which
I clearly am not, I might be concerned about having the sustained power to weaken and eventually break a single leather strap. Ain't gunna happen. 

Especially because I have an old extra pair of X2's lying around my shop not doing anything. All my and my wife's bikes have speedplays. 

I have to admit, being a newbie and all, I thought there was some fixie "protocol" of using toe clips. If not, 
great, I love X series speedplays, and have horrible memories of learning to mtb with toe clips. Complete disaster off road, but I suppose quite different on road.


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## MarshallH1987 (Jun 17, 2009)

only reason to have to have straps on your pedals is if you flail your feet and have a tendency to unclip. As long as your pedals are in good shape, you should never be able to pull out.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> I have to admit, being a newbie and all, I thought there was some fixie "protocol" of using toe clips.


By no means. People use all kinds of sysems on FG bikes, though most riders with much experience want some kind of pedal attachment, and I think most (certainly my experience) find it way easier to lock in to a clipless pedal than to flip a pedal over and get into a clip-and-strap with the crank moving.


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## UrbanPrimitive (Jun 14, 2009)

Using clips and straps had three advantages over clipless pedals - retro chic for added street cred and the option to wear your stunning new '80s retro Reeboks. I'm convinced the main reason clips became so popular is because they're a heck of a lot cheaper than clipless shoes and pedals.


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## purpletom (Jan 28, 2014)

I've set up a Fixies appreciation page on Facebook which lists a lot of bikes for sale and is a great place for you to get some ideas dwt:
http://on.fb.me/1cqPd80


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I rode my commuter with clips and straps. I don't need cycling shoes to ride three miles and it let me where running shoes, work boots, whatever I want to be wearing at the other end.


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## bikes4fun (Mar 2, 2010)

I think the big plus for clipless is that if you get into an accident, your feet will unclip. I've heard of broken ankles (but don't know of anyone personally).


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## DasBoost (Aug 15, 2013)

dwt said:


> Next question: toe clips or Velcro straps?


I don't use any attachments, just platform pedals and sneakers. For getting around town and running errands, I'm not moving as fast as I normally would if I'm just out riding and stopping/starting much more often. The main reason for getting the single speed was around-town simplicity and not having to worry about straps, clipless pedals/cleats and respective shoes, but just have a bike that I can pick up and ride and use with minimal worry outside of normal maintenance and upkeep.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

Next question: rear brake? I'm building my bike with drop bars and hoods and have spare set front and rear of Ultegra calipers. Rarely need or use rear brake on my road bike (as opposed to mtn bike). Have cable and enough housing. PS I'm too big and old to pretend to be a hipster


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I'd install it. You don't have to use it. I think it would be weird to have no right brake hood, and once I'm installing that anyway...


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

AndrwSwitch said:


> I'd install it. You don't have to use it. I think it would be weird to have no right brake hood, and once I'm installing that anyway...


I installed it, having the parts and all. Can't hurt unless I run into pack of hipsters. Bike almost complete and will be ready if spring ever comes to the northeast. Waiting for faux leather bar tape and this decal.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Nice.

How do you know someone rides a fixie?

He tells you.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

I installed the rear brake and what a PITA. adjusting chain tension to get the pads to line up properly
and the wheel rolling just right. I'm not a patient wrench, and what with dropping nuts and bolts and repeating installation more than a few times the wife had to holler down the basement stairs to order me to cool it with the language and hollering. Got done and realized I'm going to need a half link to get the tension right. DOH! The pleasures of wrenching your own bikes. A pro would laugh his ass off watching me founder around. "if you've put together all these road and mountain bikes down here in your shop, how come it still takes you so long to do simple stuff?"


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Huh. This is a purpose-built singlespeed frame, right? With horizontal fork ends and not dropouts?


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

Of course horizontal drops. I'm not a total nitwit, just partial. 

Rear Wheel has to be positioned just right to get the brake pads lined up. Got 'em lined up but shortened my chain too much. Will fix with half link, as on my mtb SS which is even harder to set up with wide tires, narrow seat and chain stays, and V-brakes.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I was trying to remember if I'd ever set up my track bike with the brake. I did. I had already installed the wheel, so I matched the brake pads to that position.

I think they were standard reach Tektros though - I may have had a lot longer mounting slot to work with.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

Let me clarify. My pads on Ultegra callipers rubbed against the tire unless the axles were set all the way forward in the drops. This lowered the pads enough. Of course, it also loosened the chain too much. Removing 2 links made the chain too tight. This happened as well on my mtb SS. Solved with the addition of a half link. As you know, half links are made to optimise chain tension on finicky SS's. 

PS as is my habit on all my bikes, I also use a master link as I lube my chains by coating with paraffin, which requires complete removal of the chains. Why? Because I'm retired and have plenty of time to do labor intensive tweaks to my bikes that most people wouldn't. Including running off road and on road tires tubeless. The fixie by using Hutchinson Secteur tires mounted on regular bead hook rims with tape over spoke holes and latex sealant. My main road bike does have ZTR Alpha rims which I laced to Ultegra hubs with Sapim Race spokes. Tires are Hutchinson Intensive. Those rims pass scrutiny by my riding buds, who otherwise think I'm Nucking futs. Sometimes you just gotta say fat the whuck.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

This is confusing to me. Had you run out of vertical adjustment in the brake calipers?

Though I have to say, I'm pretty far too the other end of the maintenance spectrum. I only ever clean my chain with a dry rag, and they don't come off my bikes until I'm ready to throw them out.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

AndrwSwitch said:


> This is confusing to me. Had you run out of vertical adjustment in the brake calipers?.


Yep, pads as low in the calipers as they could go, with axle about in the middle of the drop. Pads above the rim touching tire. Moving the axle forward in the drops raised the wheel enough so the pads are now squarely on the rim. Now I have to fuss with chain length. 

If I had thought it through what a pain it is to adjust a rear brake on a wheel mounted on horizontal drops I would have left the sucker off. 

Shoulda known. My mtn bike SS has an old school steel frame with no rear disc tabs, so I mounted V brakes. Rear brake a necessity on mtn bike. When descending rocky ledges grabbing the front brake with bad timing results in guaranteed endo. So front brake only not an option. Too bad because with mtb tire width potentially rubbing against chain and seat stays you are adjusting the wheel to fit the V brake pads at the same time as centered between chain and seat stays with no tire rub. Like 3 dimensional chess. Adjust in one direction, the other two might not work anymore, so you fiddle around and swear a lot till you get it right in all 3 dimensions. A rear flat on a ride a potential nightmare


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## bb1mina (Jul 21, 2010)

You might want to try using 57mm long reach brakes like shimano r650 or 450, so that your wheel axle placement won't be limited by the position of your brake pads


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

bb1mina said:


> You might want to try using 57mm long reach brakes like shimano r650 or 450, so that your wheel axle placement won't be limited by the position of your brake pads


Great idea, but too expensive an option. Now I have to decide whether to just dump the calipers, housing and cables before I tape the bar. Here is what it looks like without tape








Tape is faux brown leather, to match vintage real leather riveted saddle. 

If the brake comes off, lever and hood will remain for comfort. 

Votes?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Tektro standard reach brakes should be very economical. Use nice pads from another brake and you'll have a kickass system.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

I can get my Ultegras to fit. If I find I don't use or need a rear brake( another week or 2 of warming, thawing needed where Ilive before any long and serious rides ) I'll gladly remove everything but the hoods Looking forward to trying this build but must admit I'm apprehensive


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## tenkerman (Feb 16, 2012)

I purchased a Takara Kabuto for $25.00 off Craigslist from a guy that had originally purchased it on Amazon. He assembled it himself and put the fork on backwards. He never corrected his mistake and was moving back to China so it was brand new when I got it. Wheels were not true and everything needed re-tensioning. I de-stickered it and raided my parts bin for a few upgrades including a Fizak saddle and SPD-SL pedals. Next on the list is DiaCompe or Dura Ace brakes if I can get them to fit properly. If I can find a quick release front wheel I'll put that on. Will get skinnier tires when the originals wear out. In its current configuration I use it for everything from short rides to metric centuries. I probably ride it more than any of my other bikes. Moral of the story: if you can get a crappy bike for dirt cheap and have a few parts to play with, its totally worth it. Having said that, I probably would not pay the $169.00+ that this bikes sells for on Amazon.


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## dwt (Apr 2, 2002)

Finally done. Rear brake 
ditched








Waiting for good weather in NE to give this puppy a real work out. So far only ridden as SS.


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