# Rohloff Shifters with Drop Bars



## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

I'm sure this has been discussed somewhat before, but I thought I would throw it out there to see if anyone has any new ideas for using a Rohloff internally geared hub with drop bars. 

I found a link that has listed just about every conceivable way to mount a shifter with drop bars that at least I know of CyclingAbout.com – 12 Ways to Run Rohloff Shifters with Road Handlebars

I'm thinking of going with the Gilles Berthoud shifter (shown in link above). I'm not a big fan of bar end shifters so the Hubbub bar end adapter (especially the cable routing) isn't real appealing to me. The problem I see with the GB shifter is the brake cable routing. I'm not interested in using old school (cables coming out of the top) type of brake levers, but I don't see how brake cable that is routed under the bar tape is going to get by the twist shifter. The Mittlemeyer twist shifters address the issue by allowing the brake cable to run by shifter between the shifter and bar. I much prefer the aesthetics of the GB shifter, but unless I'm missing something, traditional brake cable routing is going to conflict with grasping and twisting the shifter. 

And just for hoots, here's a really ugly version of what I would really like to see developed - BSG-Rennlenker Maybe the final version coming out in March will be a "little" more refined? I know they now have pretty decent looking brifters that are compatible with Shimano Alfine 11 speed IGH, but for my purposes I would really prefer the added gear range of the Rohloff IGH. 

Does anyone have any other experiences or thoughts about how to best set up Rohloff shifting with drop bars?

Here's the Mittelmeyer shifter with brake cable run under it. It's pretty big and clunky, but unless I can find a reasonable way to route the brake cable in conjunction with the Gilles Berthoud shifter the Mittelmeyer might the only product that can be set up in a way that works for me.


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## Newnan3 (Jul 8, 2011)

No experience with them but I think its looks coolest as a down tube shifter or on the stem...


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## JAG410 (Oct 28, 2008)

The downtube looks cheap and simple (my choice), but there's no denying that GB one is gorgeous.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

My friend who had a custom frame built for a Rohloff did the spit handlebar deal like #10. He managed to find everything off the shelf somewhere.


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

It's nice to see a cottage industry has bloomed to make shifters for this hub system. 

Why not rig something with an opposing spring and a single trigger shifter?


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## RoadBoy1 (Oct 1, 2011)

I'm surprised that their hasn't been a lawsuit. These are pretty much identical to the SRAM handlebar barrel shifters of 15 years ago. The photo gallery was nice.


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

camping biker said:


> It's nice to see a cottage industry has bloomed to make shifters for this hub system.
> 
> Why not rig something with an opposing spring and a single trigger shifter?


Well they are working these DSG-Rohloff. Part of the issue with Rohloff is that there are two cables for the shifter that are set up so that (with the std shifter) one cable "pulls" when you twist one way and the other cable "pulls" when you twist the other way. There is no spring in the shifters or hub and the hub requires separate cables for direction of cable travel. The individual gear detents(sp?) are actually in the hub and not the shifter. I don't know why they needed to go with the two cable system. It certainly has limited development of alternate shifter options.

So.... any creative ideas out there on how to coordinate brake housing routing with a twist shifter?? I suppose it might be possible to have the brake housing exit the bar tape early enough to drop down below and out of the way of the shifter by the time it passes by underneath. Not exactly ideal when griping the tops of the bars though...


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ericm979 said:


> My friend who had a custom frame built for a Rohloff did the spit handlebar deal like #10. He managed to find everything off the shelf somewhere.


Would it be possible for you to verify how he routed the brake cable housing? I would like to know how he got the brake housing by the shifter without compromising the ability to grasp the shifter without also getting a handful of brake housing.


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## baker921 (Jul 20, 2007)

If you're throwing money at it, how about a couple of Di2 shifters, one hand for up and the other for down shifts? Just wiring to take care of on your bars but of course there would need to be a lot of re-engineering at the back end to get the cables to move 13 clicks!


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

Hi. Yes, I understand it uses 2 opposing cables with the shift points determined by the hub internals. 

I am curious if someone can use a small diameter stretch spring (say, run along the chain-stay or seat stay and anchored by a movable clamp) to pull on one cable, with the other run conventionally to a mtn bike trigger shifter or STI. If the spring pulls the cable the other way, the trigger shifter will be fighting the tension of the spring, and the friction of the cables as the gear is shifted, so the spring should only be strong enough to accomplish the gear shift the other way. The spring would likely have to be rather long, maybe 1 foot.





QUOTE=B2;3706519]Well they are working these DSG-Rohloff. Part of the issue with Rohloff is that there are two cables for the shifter that are set up so that (with the std shifter) one cable "pulls" when you twist one way and the other cable "pulls" when you twist the other way. There is no spring in the shifters or hub and the hub requires separate cables for direction of cable travel. The individual gear detents(sp?) are actually in the hub and not the shifter. I don't know why they needed to go with the two cable system. It certainly has limited development of alternate shifter options.

So.... any creative ideas out there on how to coordinate brake housing routing with a twist shifter?? I suppose it might be possible to have the brake housing exit the bar tape early enough to drop down below and out of the way of the shifter by the time it passes by underneath. Not exactly ideal when griping the tops of the bars though...[/QUOTE]


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

I looked on the Rohloff site. They apparently are not interested in making specialized shifters, because they feel the problem has been solved. 
Can the Rohloff twist shifter be mounted on racing bars?: www.rohloff.de









For $1500 +/- , it should come with a choice of shifters and a spare!

For the people using the method of mounting it at the end of drop bars, I suppose you could find a section of alu pipe that fits the twist shifter, chop your stock bar just a little, and bondo/epoxy that sucker in the end. Then you can mount the bell of the shifter at the far end of the bar, and turn the grip with your ring and pinky while holding the bars conventionally. Should be less annoying than the type that can come unscrewed from the bar, or having the bell in the middle.


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

I thought there were 22.2 drop bars, but I guess they are so far out of fashion never to be found. 
Steel Drop Bars [Archive] - Bike Forums (discussion of obsolete road drop bars including small diameter clamps and grip sizes)


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## danl1 (Jul 23, 2005)

I don't have any useful input, but when the question was asked, #9 was the first thing that popped into my head.


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

camping biker said:


> For the people using the method of mounting it at the end of drop bars, I suppose you could find a section of alu pipe that fits the twist shifter, chop your stock bar just a little, and bondo/epoxy that sucker in the end. Then you can mount the bell of the shifter at the far end of the bar, and turn the grip with your ring and pinky while holding the bars conventionally. Should be less annoying than the type that can come unscrewed from the bar, or having the bell in the middle.


I've seen a couple photos of install on the bar end as you described (bell end of the shifter to the rear). Having that much cable housing floating around out there in free air between the bar ends and head tube seems like it might be a (knee) conflict. Although I would prefer the bell part of the shifter to the rear, I think I would opt to go with a little neater cable routing (see photo). This method has it's own issues though.

The photo you attached from Rohloff with the bar ends that simulate a drop bar shows a configuration where the brake cable needs to run under the bar tape and then past the shifter. This is the exact configuration I'm trying to resolve. I must be missing something here? Isn't the brake cable going to be pretty much touching the shifter as it passes on by? It would be kind of difficult to twist the shifter when you have a handful of cable housing as well.


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## camping biker (Dec 22, 2011)

edited: Probably the mtb bar/drop bar-end combo problem is solved, by using internal cable routing. 

If you drill a handlebar, remember that it weakens the bar. On steel handlebars it is likely not a problem. You will have to peen the bar and use a pilot bit (small). Else, you can clamp a block of wood with a small hole drilled in it, and use as a guide. You will have to file the hole to prevent cutting the cable housing. 

The pic you posted looks like a good way to go. In the Rohloff photo I posted, it is hard to tell, but the cable must run either under the mtb grip and the shifter outside of those, or actually underneath the grip and shifter in some kind of narrow tubing. You can see the interrupt lever on the top bar/mtb bar, and see where the cable comes out. It's possible they used something like a heavy duty plastic or brass line, such as Gore Cables inner lining.


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## ridinhurtsbutilikeit (Dec 31, 2011)

Hiya

We've got a great collection of shifters on here:

forums.mtbr.com/internal-gear-hubs/rohloff-tt-triathlon-bike-653140-post8815073.html#post8815073

The main plus being that Mittelmeyer are producing a "brifter" due out in March. For some reason they are only making it compatible with hydraulic brakes and make mention of Magura. No idea of why they are only doing it with hydros on drop bars..........................

On the link I've posted (highlight it, right click, then go to) there is an example of an electronic shufter you can buy which is pretty cool. I have the Gilles Berthoud and it's going on my new bike. I had the Mittelmeyer but it was well clunky and seized in wet weather. The GB has a rubber o ring which will help and the whole thing just looks sexy. Really hope Mittelmeyer change production to go with cable brakes as they'll sell like crazy......and I want one!!!


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ridinhurtsbutilikeit said:


> I have the Gilles Berthoud and it's going on my new bike. I had the Mittelmeyer but it was well clunky and seized in wet weather. The GB has a rubber o ring which will help and the whole thing just looks sexy. Really hope Mittelmeyer change production to go with cable brakes as they'll sell like crazy......and I want one!!!


Thanks for the post. Too bad about the Mittelmeyer shifter freezing up. That is the second instance I've read about that happening. Doesn't sound too promising. Do you know if the GB Twister allows for the brake cable to be run between the shifter and the bar like the Mittelmeyer? Running the brake cable on by the shifter on the outside of the shifter doesn't sound like a great idea. The M-gineering shifter shown on the MTBR link you posted has the brake cable routed this way and is exactly what I would like to avoid. Looking at the GB Twister installation instructions (see photo below), it looks like the brake cable might be intended to be routed like the Mittelmeyer. There's a gap in the shim labeled #3 that looks like it may be intended for the cable to pass through. I've tried contacting GB to find out for sure, but I haven't received any response.


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## ridinhurtsbutilikeit (Dec 31, 2011)

Yeah, the brake cable routes through under the GB twister just like the Mittelmeyer. It is so much prettier too!. Only issue you may have is with the clamping area on your bars (where it meets the stem), as if this is broad, the shifted might encroach on the flats of the bars too much so if you're on the flats your hand has to be on the shifter.


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ridinhurtsbutilikeit said:


> Yeah, the brake cable routes through under the GB twister just like the Mittelmeyer.


Awesome! I'm getting the GB Twister for sure then.


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## ridinhurtsbutilikeit (Dec 31, 2011)

Cool do you want to see it mounted on a set of bars (not installed, just mocked up on bare bars)?


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ridinhurtsbutilikeit said:


> Cool do you want to see it mounted on a set of bars (not installed, just mocked up on bare bars)?


Thanks for the offer, but just so long as I know there's room to run the brake cable housing between the shifter and the bar, I'm good to go. The instructions make it look like the cable can pass under part #6, but it's not so clear the cable can run under part #7.


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## ridinhurtsbutilikeit (Dec 31, 2011)

Yup - part #3 is actually eccentric - thicker at the gap section, so it places the whole assembly off centre from the bars, allowing the cable to pass through. Enjoy! Oh and please post pics when you're set up!


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ridinhurtsbutilikeit said:


> Enjoy! Oh and please post pics when you're set up!


Well it's been a long time in the making, but it's finally done! I picked it up last Tuesday and have logged about 80 miles since. So far so good.


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## kingennio (Jul 3, 2006)

great looking bike! out of curiosity, what's the total weight and does she perform when climbing?


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

kingennio said:


> great looking bike! out of curiosity, what's the total weight and does she perform when climbing?


Thanks for the compliment. 

Well... Let's put it this way weight is not what it was built for. I put it on the scale this morning and it was 30.0 lbs. I was tired of frames wiggling and waggling all over place with a full load so I selected generally oversized tubes that would provide some semblance of stiffness during fully loaded touring. From what I understand it's probably a pound or two more than a Surly LHT in a similar size so I guess it's not too bad. 

I've got it geared quite low on the low end so it climbs very nicely, but as with any bike in this weight range it takes a few more watts to get it up the hill.


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## blakcloud (Apr 13, 2006)

Wow! Your bike is spectacular. Nice choices on every part or your build. I am sure you care going to enjoy it for a long time.


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## irishstu (Aug 5, 2010)

Completely agree. What a LOVELY bike.


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## ridinhurtsbutilikeit (Dec 31, 2011)

Absolutely lovely. Am jealous of your carbon drive setup! I'll post some pics of my build soon. Did the frame have to be tested to get the belt drive authorised?


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

ridinhurtsbutilikeit said:


> Did the frame have to be tested to get the belt drive authorised?


Yes - Gates in Colorado does the testing for Rohloff and then sends the report to the US Rohloff Representative. 

The first time the frame was tested was with 7/8" x .03 or .035(?) wall chainstays. The allowed lateral movement with the spec'd force was something like 4.92mm. The frame tested out at 5.08mm so it "failed". The chainstays were replaced with 7/8" x .05 wall tubing and then retested. I haven't seen the final numbers yet, but based on the first test I'm sure it easily passed.


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## justilew (Jun 25, 2012)

*Drop Bar Shifter*

I am working on a drop bar shifter to go on  my new baby, it should be done in a couple weeks, I will post some pictures soon.


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## B2 (Mar 12, 2002)

B2 said:


> Yes - Gates in Colorado does the testing for Rohloff and then sends the report to the US Rohloff Representative.
> 
> The first time the frame was tested was with 7/8" x .03 or .035(?) wall chainstays. The allowed lateral movement with the spec'd force was something like 4.92mm. The frame tested out at 5.08mm so it "failed". The chainstays were replaced with 7/8" x .05 wall tubing and then retested. I haven't seen the final numbers yet, but based on the first test I'm sure it easily passed.


Just thought I would add an update here to the frame stiffness testing. The .05" wall tubing tested out at 3.46mm lateral movement, well within the 4.92mm allowed for this frame's geometry. Just a point of reference for anybody contemplating a similar belt drive frame design requiring stiffness testing, the chain stay length is 450mm and the seat stays are 19mm x .03". The ST is 536mm c-c actual.


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