# Yet another crotch clearance question...



## Inace (Aug 31, 2009)

I've been looking at a Scott Speedster as my first road bike and I'm torn between the 52 and 54 sizes. I'm 5'10" but only a 30.5 in inseam with bare feet (long torso). The listed standover height for the 54 is 30.6 in but with regular shoes on I had a little clearance when I stood over one in the store. The 52 has a standover height one inch less. I rode both but it's my first time on a road bike so I don't have a good reference point of how it should feel. Both felt ok I guess.

Am I crazy to even consider the 54? I've seen a lot of posts that say top tube length is more important than standover clearance but I've also seen a lot that say you need at least one inch between the top tube and "the boys". The bikes both come with a 110 mm stem so if I went that route to lengthen then I'd be using a 120+mm stem. Is that too long? Again, I've seen posts on both sides. The folks at the shop weren't too helpful. They seem to be going just by crotch clearance and not taking into account my long torso. They also didn't watch me ride the bikes so they don't know how I look on them. Somewhere I read on the internet that people often get sold a bike that is too small so I'm a little wary of that.

Another thing. At some point I'll be getting cycling shoes which I assume have thinner soles than the shoes I wore at the bike shop so that would reduce the standover clearance a little more I think.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

I touch the top tube of my road bike while standing flatfooted in socks over it. That is to say, I really cannot stand flatfooted in socks over it. There is no clearance for "the boys" ("the girly bits" in my case). 

The situation is better in my bike shoes and I can stand over the bike with some clearance (not much). I do wear mountain bike shoes which have more thickness (actually have a sole you can walk in...).

I've never had an issue and would buy the bike again. On a road bike I'd rather have a close call on standover than ride a bike with a very long stem (yea, I'd consider having to go to a 120 long, but not completely unreasonable).

On a mountain bike it's a whole 'nother story! (I made sure I had plenty of clearance there)

I would however suggest checking out other bikes and shops if at all possible. Sometimes going to a different brand means you get a better overall fit and that is worth making sacrifices/concessions on other parts of the bike for.

In short, no, you are not crazy.


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## Creakyknees (Sep 21, 2003)

yeah, get fitted, (you don't have to spend $200 for it). 

my bike, by modern rule of thumb, is too big for me. In cleats and shorts, the boys almost touch. But, I like the way it fits me, I'm comfy and efficient on it. 

IMO, reach / top tube length, and saddle to bar height difference are way more important than standover.


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

Get the bike that fits best- i.e., the one that's most comfortable to ride. Your chances of sliding off the saddle and landing flat footed over the top tube are almost zero. That's also not the way most people are in a 'ready' position when stopped. Keep in mind that with cycling shoes on you'll have more clearance. Besides, the chances of rupturing _both_ testicles in a crash is pretty slim


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## ewitz (Sep 11, 2002)

You planning on riding the bike or just standing there with your boys dangling on the top tube.

When they say to get fit on the bike they mean with you sitting on the saddle. In all likelihood the 54 is the appropriate size based on your long torso and the top tbe length.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

Another vote for letting crotch clearance sink low on the priority list. My "way-too-big" traditional steel bike has zero crotch clearance. But I can stand over the top tube with nothing hurting, both feet on the ground. The boys are getting touched by the top tube, but so what. As far as I'm concerned, the bike fits perfectly because I can ride that bike for hours in complete comfort.

The "at least an inch of clearance" rule is a hand-me-down from the days when bikes were primarily sold to kids who would ride their bikes with sneakers on worn-out and muddy rubber block pedals cranking 130+ rpm standing up. Makes some sense in those circumstances, I suppose.


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## Charlie2Ba (May 28, 2009)

Most important is how the bike fits you when you're riding it, not when you're standing over it. 

Like you I'm 5'10" with 30" inseam and a long torso. My road bike is a 56cm and both my FS and HT MTBs are size large frames. On all three bikes I'm pretty tight on the standover clearance but they fit perfect when I'm on them and comfy like an old sofa. All are set up with a no-setback seatpost and and shorter stems. I've tried smaller frames (54cm road and size Medium MTB) with set back post and longer stems but a longer frame feels better to me.


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## MR_GRUMPY (Aug 21, 2002)

How often do you have to hop off a road bike and plant both feet on the ground?
On Mountain bikes, this happens quite often, but on road bikes....................

Top tube and head tube length are the two most importand things.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Of course, I haven't seen, fit, or measured you but by your height I'd expect you to fit a 54 OR 56cm frame. The 52 is definitely below your size.

The crotch clearance is important for dismounting in emergency situations. If you're not making contact you should be okay.

If the Scott fits you otherwise, then I'd go for it, or look for a frame with more slope in the top tube. One of the advantages of sloping frames is they allow riders with longer torsos to fit bikes normally meant for taller riders.


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## dismal (Jul 28, 2009)

read this:

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/choosing_a_frame_size

become even more confused ;-)


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## Fredrico (Jun 15, 2002)

*+1, Stay away from a small frame.*

As Brother Grant (Grant Peterson, Rivendell Bikes) says, gettting a bike that will allow the handlebars to be at the same height, or no more than an inch below the ideal saddle height, is the way to comfort over the long run. Why? Because upper body weight can be directed forward or back by leaning forward or sitting up. This isn't possible on a too-small bike because the handlebars are too low. There's always alot of weight on the hands, and the lower back suffers from scrunched up positioning. Racers put long stems on their small frames, develope strong backs, and adapt by holding their upper body as much with the back muscles as the arms. They also develope strong necks to keep their heads upright. You'll do this too, but being able to sit up more, it won't be as painful.

Also, a larger frame, probably 56 cm. for 5' 10", will give your long upper body enough room so that you can sit with your back flat, and rotate from the hoods to the drops without arching your back. Being able to ride without scrunching up enables the ribs to expand, the lungs to fill with air, the lower back muscles to stretch and become strong and supple, so that when you want, you can take your hands off the bars or hold onto them with a very light grip, and support your upper body weight with your back, just like the racers.

I'll add my big frame story to the others. I'm 5' 8". My first road bike was 56 cm. Way too big. It was very comfortable. I still had the seat a little bit above the handlebars, and the reach was just right with the 10mm stem. My next bike was from The Fit Kit. It's a 54cm. frame with 55cm. top tube. I had to go to a 12 mm stem to make it fit, believe it or not. My next frame was 53.5 cm. with 54 cm. top tube. Had to put on a whopping 13.5 cm stem to make that one fit. That puts alot of weight forward over the front wheel, which makes handling squirrely descending. I have to move off the back of the saddle to take weight off the front wheel.

So if you have a long upper body, like me, get the larger frame. 54 cm. minimum, and test ride a couple of 56s before laying out the coin.


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## padawan716 (Mar 22, 2008)

You've pretty much got the same inseam as me, but are 5" taller. That seem's like alot more torso, so I'd go with the bigger bike. Crotch clearance is nice, but not at the expense of being too cramped. I fit on 49-51cm frames (~52.5 top tubes) with a ~100mm stem... so I don't think a 52 for your size would be feasible... or comfortable.


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## dekindy (Jul 7, 2006)

Look at a bike with a sloping top tube? Scott Speedster gets good reviews so no problem there.

Lemond frames are always recommended for cyclists with longer than average torso.


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## Inace (Aug 31, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the input. I'm definitely leaning toward the 54. This weekend I'll probably try to check out another store or two and maybe some different bikes - but now I know not to be so concerned about crotch clearance! I don't think I could handle negative clearance though, so I don't know about a 56, unless it's a completely different model.

This forum is great, I really appreciate everyone's advice. Thanks again!


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

CougarTrek said:


> I touch the top tube of my road bike while standing flatfooted in socks over it. That is to say, I really cannot stand flatfooted in socks over it. There is no clearance for "the boys" ("the girly bits" in my case).
> 
> The situation is better in my bike shoes and I can stand over the bike with some clearance (not much). I do wear mountain bike shoes which have more thickness (actually have a sole you can walk in...).
> 
> ...


I know this is a very old thread, but since this is a simple question, I didn't want to start a whole new thread about it. On my old, comfy hybrid, I have about 2+ inches clearance for my testicles over the top tube while in sneakers.

But a few weeks ago, I purchased a brand new Scot Foil 30, which I love, from Piermont Cycle Connection. I am about 5'10"ish (not sure of exact height, but may be closer to 5'11") and the sales person, very knowledgeable guy, told me I need a 56, because the bikes are measured small. Now, in every way I can tell, the bike feels great while riding. But I have zero clearance for my junk while standing in sneakers.

Is this bad? I had wondered the same thing and brought the bike in, and Glen had me sit on it and put my feet on the pedals, and even pedal while the bike was installed in a machine that held the bike stationary while I pedaled.

He told me the bike is absolutely fine for me and that the 54, in this model, would be too small. He also told me that it was a myth that you needed X-amount of clearance for your testicles

So I just wanted to ask this here, without starting a new thread, to make sure I didn't spend a bunch of money on a bike that doesn't fit me, because it seems like the cycling community is split on this "clearance" issue.


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## nsfbr (May 23, 2014)

ChiroVette said:


> I know this is a very old thread, but since this is a simple question, I didn't want to start a whole new thread about it. On my old, comfy hybrid, I have about 2+ inches clearance for my testicles over the top tube while in sneakers.
> 
> But a few weeks ago, I purchased a brand new Scot Foil 30, which I love, from Piermont Cycle Connection. I am about 5'10"ish (not sure of exact height, but may be closer to 5'11") and the sales person, very knowledgeable guy, told me I need a 56, because the bikes are measured small. Now, in every way I can tell, the bike feels great while riding. But I have zero clearance for my junk while standing in sneakers.
> 
> ...


I don't think the community is split on this issue. I think what matters is how you fit the bike when you are riding, not standing. Of course, you wouldn't want to hang with your feet in the air supported by your testes, but we aren't talking about that at the moment.

I do just want to make sure I understand what you wrote though, you just bought your first road bike and it is a Foil and you did that without getting a real fitting done, is that correct?

I'd take some of what is left your bank account and invest it is a real fitting. You have a mult- $k, it is probably worth getting it adjusted exactly to you, not the other way around.


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

nsfbr said:


> I don't think the community is split on this issue. I think what matters is how you fit the bike when you are riding, not standing. Of course, you wouldn't want to hang with your feet in the air supported by your testes, but we aren't talking about that at the moment.
> 
> I do just want to make sure I understand what you wrote though, you just bought your first road bike and it is a Foil and you did that without getting a real fitting done, is that correct?
> 
> I'd take some of what is left your bank account and invest it is a real fitting. You have a mult- $k, it is probably worth getting it adjusted exactly to you, not the other way around.


Hey thanks for the incredibly well thought out and informative answer! Okay, since I am not 100% sure what a real fitting is, Glen did fit me to the bike when I bought it. he adjusted the stem, seat, and a few other things. He told me that because I was not a pro rider that the custom fitting, which I believe he charges a few hundred just for, was not something I needed. He was affable about it and told me he would gladly take my money, but that the bike fit me well enough with just a few minor adjustments which he made.

Forgive my complete ignorance on this topic as all I have to go on is what sales people tell me and what people tell me in the forums. None of my friends know even as much as I do about bikes. Is that what you mean, but being fit for the bike, a custom fitting?


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

cxwrench said:


> What matters is how the bike fits when you're actually riding it. Unless of course all you do is stand around with it at the coffee shop, while gingerly resting the boys on the top tube.


lol Good point. 

I guess I always thought that the clearance was necessary in case you sort of fell off the seat into a standing position, where no clearance could be...well, uncomfortable.


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## nsfbr (May 23, 2014)

ChiroVette said:


> Hey thanks for the incredibly well thought out and informative answer! Okay, since I am not 100% sure what a real fitting is, Glen did fit me to the bike when I bought it. he adjusted the stem, seat, and a few other things. He told me that because I was not a pro rider that the custom fitting, which I believe he charges a few hundred just for, was not something I needed. He was affable about it and told me he would gladly take my money, but that the bike fit me well enough with just a few minor adjustments which he made.
> 
> Forgive my complete ignorance on this topic as all I have to go on is what sales people tell me and what people tell me in the forums. None of my friends know even as much as I do about bikes. Is that what you mean, but being fit for the bike, a custom fitting?


Here is why I responded. A few months ago (early March) I bought my first road bike - A Scott Speedster 20. The sales guy was very knowledgeable, but he was also a shop tech and a bunch of other things and not someone who does fittings to make sure that everything is right. Anyway, after a thousand plus miles I had come to the conclusion that, while I love this bike - especially in comparison to both the MTB I used to ride and the hybrid I was leaving behind - the saddle sucked and was making the prospect of doing my first century this Fall kind of daunting. So, I went to the LBS (not where I bought the bike btw) and made an appointment to get fit to a new saddle with the intent of coming in and having my saddle issues left behind (heh heh.)

That's not what happened. Les put me and my bike in the trainer they have set up for fittings and had me ride for a few minutes in the various positions and then had me stop. He then started to explain how my saddle wasn't the problem, the bike fit was. We talked a bit and I decided to change the plan and have him properly fit me - he had the extra time after my appointment and I wanted to deal with this right.

Long story short, he started with the cleats in my shoes, wound up changing my seat height (which I had moved all over the place, but wound up being about 1/4" lower than it was when I came in) moved it forward, to properly align with the pedals, inclined it up slightly (we are talking on the order of a degree) and flipped by stem to reduce my reach and give me a less aggressive position and allow me to use my elbows to get down. All the while he was measuring things, both on my and on the bike. And kept a record of where things started and what changes were made. He took into account what I told him about me, my goals and my history. And he took into account the fact that at 51 I’m not as flexible as I was at 21.

And the fit is not done, just done for the time being as since I had been riding, and strengthening my body in the wrong position (to develop power most efficiently and comfortably) the assumption is that I will need to go back and finish it off in a few weeks. That is included.

He also gave me a series of things to be working on to correct the bad habits I formed (straighten the back, stop pointing the toes, etc.)

And so now, my butt doesn't hurt, I go faster and further than before, I end my rides thinking about what I'm trying to do rather than when am I going to get a new saddle...

And this is on a bike that is probably less than half the cost of yours (Speedsters dream of being reborn as Foils, right?) No offense at all intended to Glen, but I am virtually positive that what he did was to make sure that the bike is the right size for you, but I doubt he made sure that it is set up right for you. Good luck.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

ChiroVette said:


> Hey thanks for the incredibly well thought out and informative answer! Okay, since I am not 100% sure what a real fitting is, Glen did fit me to the bike when I bought it. he adjusted the stem, seat, and a few other things. He told me that because I was not a pro rider that the custom fitting, which I believe he charges a few hundred just for, was not something I needed. He was affable about it and told me he would gladly take my money, but that the bike fit me well enough with just a few minor adjustments which he made.
> 
> Forgive my complete ignorance on this topic as all I have to go on is what sales people tell me and what people tell me in the forums. None of my friends know even as much as I do about bikes. Is that what you mean, but being fit for the bike, a custom fitting?


What matters is how the bike fits when you're actually riding it. Unless of course all you do is stand around with it at the coffee shop, while gingerly resting the boys on the top tube.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

nsfbr said:


> Here is why I responded. A few months ago (early March) I bought my first road bike - A Scott Speedster 20. The sales guy was very knowledgeable, but he was also a shop tech and a bunch of other things and not someone who does fittings to make sure that everything is right. Anyway, after a thousand plus miles I had come to the conclusion that, while I love this bike - especially in comparison to both the MTB I used to ride and the hybrid I was leaving behind - the saddle sucked and was making the prospect of doing my first century this Fall kind of daunting. So, I went to the LBS (not where I bought the bike btw) and made an appointment to get fit to a new saddle with the intent of coming in and having my saddle issues left behind (heh heh.)
> 
> That's not what happened. Les put my and my bike in the trainer they have set up for fittings and had me ride for a few minutes in the various positions and then had me stop. He then started to explain how my saddle wasn't the problem, the bike fit was. We talked a bit and I decided to change the plan and have him properly fit me - he had the extra time after my appointment and I wanted to deal with this right.
> 
> ...


^ This ^...good post. There is a large difference between a shop employee getting a customer on the right size bike and adjusting saddle height, and actually getting a proper fitting done. Huge.


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

nsfbr said:


> Here is why I responded. A few months ago (early March) I bought my first road bike - A Scott Speedster 20. The sales guy was very knowledgeable, but he was also a shop tech and a bunch of other things and not someone who does fittings to make sure that everything is right. Anyway, after a thousand plus miles I had come to the conclusion that, while I love this bike - especially in comparison to both the MTB I used to ride and the hybrid I was leaving behind - the saddle sucked and was making the prospect of doing my first century this Fall kind of daunting. So, I went to the LBS (not where I bought the bike btw) and made an appointment to get fit to a new saddle with the intent of coming in and having my saddle issues left behind (heh heh.)
> 
> That's not what happened. Les put me and my bike in the trainer they have set up for fittings and had me ride for a few minutes in the various positions and then had me stop. He then started to explain how my saddle wasn't the problem, the bike fit was. We talked a bit and I decided to change the plan and have him properly fit me - he had the extra time after my appointment and I wanted to deal with this right.
> 
> ...


Wow, this is some awesome information, thanks!

I know that Glen from Piermont has access to all the equipment to do custom fits. I will talk to him about it, as I think you bring up some interesting points. He has all the equipment and I think he even uses computers for some parts of his custom fits. The reason I never got one was because he said he felt it wasn't necessary in my case. I trusted that because he makes money on the custom fits, and I know they charge at least $150.00, and maybe even up to $300.00, I forget exactly.

I guess my Devil's Advocate question would have to be, if he makes a ton of money on custom fits, why would he say I didn't need one?


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## jkc (Jun 23, 2014)

What everyone forget is the center of mass. Generally, you want that just in front of the bottom brackets (center of the bike for stability and efficient power transfer) and that is why top tub length is more critical as stem length and seat placement can only get you so far before the bike is just too small or large. Your riding style also somewhat dictates.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

ChiroVette said:


> Wow, this is some awesome information, thanks!
> 
> I know that Glen from Piermont has access to all the equipment to do custom fits. I will talk to him about it, as I think you bring up some interesting points. He has all the equipment and I think he even uses computers for some parts of his custom fits. The reason I never got one was because he said he felt it wasn't necessary in my case. I trusted that because he makes money on the custom fits, and I know they charge at least $150.00, and maybe even up to $300.00, I forget exactly.
> 
> I guess my Devil's Advocate question would have to be, if he makes a ton of money on custom fits, why would he say I didn't need one?


He might have given that advice based on this being your first road bike and that you needed to just go out and ride for a little while to get used to it. As long as he got you set up w/ the correct saddle height and close on the reach/drop you should be fine. But as noted previously your fit needs will change as your fitness and strength grows.


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## CliffordK (Jun 6, 2014)

I have zero clearance to the top tube (rather tight). I either find it quite comfortable or at least have gotten very used to it over time. I tend to sit on the top tube when at traffic lights. 

Both the seat tube and the head tube are angled, so if you are comparing a 56cm frame and a 52cm frame, then you should be measuring the 52 cm frame at a spot 4cm above the top tube to get a fair comparison. 

You can certainly also make adjustments with stem length, and in many cases stem height. So, it may be easier to make a small bike seem large than to make a large bike seem small. 

Racers apparently like smaller frames with lower handlebars. However, for the casual rider, the larger frame may be easier to configure comfortably.


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## nsfbr (May 23, 2014)

ChiroVette said:


> Wow, this is some awesome information, thanks!
> 
> I know that Glen from Piermont has access to all the equipment to do custom fits. I will talk to him about it, as I think you bring up some interesting points. He has all the equipment and I think he even uses computers for some parts of his custom fits. The reason I never got one was because he said he felt it wasn't necessary in my case. I trusted that because he makes money on the custom fits, and I know they charge at least $150.00, and maybe even up to $300.00, I forget exactly.
> 
> I guess my Devil's Advocate question would have to be, if he makes a ton of money on custom fits, why would he say I didn't need one?


Well, I don't know Glen, and I don't actually know that much in absolute terms. I know that cxw knows not just more than I do, but orders of magnitude more. I was just explaining how I went from a perspective not unlike yours to "wow!". I've also learned that had I gone to this particular LBS in the first place to buy the bike that fit I just paid for would have been part of the sale. In this particular local market, the business model is to have happy customers who ride a lot. And, in part, because it is a highly educated, almost hyper-everyone's an expert on everything area I live in, that is the only model that makes sense for a small local bike shop. Of course it doesn't hurt that it is literally 75' off the busiest bike trail in the area, and why I now know it (it is on my 3x a week bike commute.)


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

nsfbr said:


> Well, I don't know Glen, and I don't actually know that much in absolute terms. I know that cxw knows not just more than I do, but orders of magnitude more. I was just explaining how I went from a perspective not unlike yours to "wow!". I've also learned that had I gone to this particular LBS in the first place to buy the bike that fit I just paid for would have been part of the sale. In this particular local market, the business model is to have happy customers who ride a lot. And, in part, because it is a highly educated, almost hyper-everyone's an expert on everything area I live in, that is the only model that makes sense for a small local bike shop. Of course it doesn't hurt that it is literally 75' off the busiest bike trail in the area, and why I now know it (it is on my 3x a week bike commute.)


I hear you, and I am going to give Glen a call, since he sold me my bike, specializes in these custom fits, and has helped me with a whole bunch of other stuff I needed since the purchase. I will ask him what he thinks about a custom fit and whether this is something he believes I could benefit from, since it certainly sounds like I could. Look at it from my point of view, though: I am pretty ignorant about these things; the guy who sold me the bike and who stands to make money by selling me a custom fit, recommended that I don't need one; and so far only people on the Internet have recommended me getting one.  lol I know that comes off nasty and derogatory, and I promise I don't mean it that way. My only point is this is a good chunk of change to rely just on the posts in a message forum for advice on, right? Yeesh, no nice way to say that, is there?

That said, what should I pay for this if I get it? I have seen them for as low as $100.00 and as high as $350.00.


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## Winn (Feb 15, 2013)

Don't get a fit repetitive motion injuries are awesome!

Maybe he didn't recommend it because he wasn't sure you would be cycling long enough to develop any. 

He may also have felt it was close enough already. Either way I would personally want to know why he didn't think it was necessary most folks recommend it... Good luck and it is possible to never get fit and not have injuries...


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## ChiroVette (Jun 7, 2014)

Winn said:


> Don't get a fit repetitive motion injuries are awesome!
> 
> Maybe he didn't recommend it because he wasn't sure you would be cycling long enough to develop any.
> 
> He may also have felt it was close enough already. Either way I would personally want to know why he didn't think it was necessary most folks recommend it... Good luck and it is possible to never get fit and not have injuries...


Thanks, and as I said, I am definitely going to find out when I talk to him. Believe me, if I would benefit by a custom fit, I will plunk down the bread. I certainly paid enough for this bike and all the gear I purchased for it since that it would not make any sense not to go the final mile in this one and invest in something necessary. When I talk to him I will post back here again.


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## nsfbr (May 23, 2014)

ChiroVette said:


> I hear you, and I am going to give Glen a call, since he sold me my bike, specializes in these custom fits, and has helped me with a whole bunch of other stuff I needed since the purchase. I will ask him what he thinks about a custom fit and whether this is something he believes I could benefit from, since it certainly sounds like I could. Look at it from my point of view, though: I am pretty ignorant about these things; the guy who sold me the bike and who stands to make money by selling me a custom fit, recommended that I don't need one; and so far only people on the Internet have recommended me getting one.  lol I know that comes off nasty and derogatory, and I promise I don't mean it that way. My only point is this is a good chunk of change to rely just on the posts in a message forum for advice on, right? Yeesh, no nice way to say that, is there?
> 
> That said, what should I pay for this if I get it? I have seen them for as low as $100.00 and as high as $350.00.


He sold you a Foil. It should be free. I paid $150 and they didn't know me from Adam. That's just my $0.02, but I'd not expect to pay anywhere near full price from the place that put me on a $3k bike as my first roadie.


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## Camilo (Jun 23, 2007)

cxwrench said:


> What matters is how the bike fits when you're actually riding it. Unless of course all you do is stand around with it at the coffee shop, while gingerly resting the boys on the top tube.


Or massaging them *8-O

Seriously, I see people posting about testing standover while in socks, etc. I definitely agree that standover is not a huge issue, and even if you think it's an issue, you don't need much.

BUT when all this talk about standover is happening, remember, if you must assess standover as a selection criterion, be sure to do it in your CYCLING SHOES (or sneakers), and in your CYCLING SHORTS. You shouldn't be surprised that the combination of shoes and nice tight shorts gives you quite a bit more clearance than socks and baggy undies.

Seriously, why would anyone even mention standover in stocking feet and jeans? That's just dumb, unless you ride in your stocking feet and jeans. (not that there's anything wrong with that!)


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## LVbob (Mar 24, 2014)

When I bought my bike, they did the standard shop fit (though mine lasted about two hours - it was pretty thorough and they know I have some neck and flexibility issues that needed to be addressed). I'm giving it another six to eight months to see what more time in the saddle brings in terms of my position on the bike and I am then going in for a full fitting. 

I'd say that you should give it some time before doing the full fit.


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