# Moving from MTB to "road" bike (long - sorry!)



## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

I am in the process of switching from a MTB that I have had for ~ 2.5 years to a bike more "road" worthy. The MTB was purchased with the intent of getting into shape, but I rarely rode it for the first year (~400 miles). In April 2005 I ended up in the emergency ward at a hospital for a non-biking related injury. My blood pressure at the time was 160/110. Starting in May 2005, I was back on the bike.

After two weeks, I started getting frustrated again. A friend recommended that I switch out the MTB tires for ones more road worthy (Ritchey Tom Slicks 26x1.4) since I never took the bike off-road, not even on trails. 25 weeks later I had lost 52 lbs! I have kept the weight off ever since. I ride exclusively for exercise after work and on weekends, 3-5 times a week for about 60-75 minutes a ride.

In recent months I have been getting frustrated with the MTB. The front fork doesn't lock out, so I find that the bike bounces a lot on my climbs (which I suck at). I also have an issue with a rear derailleur (XT) that has lost a gasket of some sort on one of the gears and won't downshift properly (no matter how much I calibrate it on the bike stand).

When considering the cost of a new fork and derailleur (I'm probably also due for a new chain and cassette), I've decided to put my money on a bike more suitable for road riding. That's where the decision becomes difficult for me.

I am looking for advice from those who have made the transition from MTB to a "road" bike. I say "road" because I am not sure whether I should get a road bike, a flat bar road bike, a fitness hybrid or whatever the manufacturer calls their flat bar, fixed fork hybrids.

I admit to liking the flat bar for braking, shifting and general riding, although on my Gary Fisher MTB I am stretched out a bit (Genesis geometry plus 120mm stem). I'm 5'8", but I have a 35" arm sleeve length, hence the need for a longer MTB. If it is important, my typical rides average about 14-15 mph.

My two biggest issues about going completely with a road bike are: (1) the drop down handlebar positioning, and (2) the gear ratios. As I mentioned, I suck at climbing, and while a triple with 30 in the front and 25 in the rear would suffice for my normal riding, the occasional trips up Mt. Eden Road (Cupertino, CA) requires ~ 1:1 ratio on my MTB, and if tired even less (22:26).

Once I can decide whether to go with a "true" road bike or some variation of a flat bar road bike, the decision making will get easier. Cost, models, and fit are issues I can address.


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## nachomc (Aug 31, 2006)

I recently bought my first road bike after only having mountain bikes all my life. Get a "real" road bike, with drops and all. The shifting and braking take a little time to adjust to, however there's still the flat section up top where you can ride until you get used to the other positions.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

Much as I would like a flat bar bike, in the back of my mind I keep thinking I should go with a true road bike. But I don't have visions of riding centuries or going on 4+ hour rides where a road bike would have the distinct advantage over a flat bar bike. My 60-75 minute rides tend to be near areas where there are cars, which I believe makes a flat bar bike more convenient (I could be wrong though).


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## Ninja #2 (Aug 26, 2006)

Test a bunch of bikes out. Thats the only way you're going to be able to know if one or the other is better for you. Obviously the flat bars are going to feel better right off the bat, cause of what you're used to. But just give the full road bike a chance. 

I think you need to ask your self what you want to do with this bike. Are you going to want to go on group rides in the future? If so road bike is the only way to go.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

Ninja #2 said:


> I think you need to ask your self what you want to do with this bike. Are you going to want to go on group rides in the future? If so road bike is the only way to go.


I am not expecting to go on group rides in the near future. For the past 16 months I have gone solo on my rides. It gives me a chance to forget about work for awhile. It also allows me to choose the riding of my choice on any given day. I can go 12 miles or 20, take street routes with some steep climbs, or stay mostly on the flats and slight inclines/declines.

One issue that may steer me towards a road bike is availability. There are a lot of bike stores in our area that carry many brands and models of road bikes. Even though the bicycle model season is about to change to the 2007s (some have already), there are still quite a few 2006s available, some for a decent discount.

The same cannot be said for the high-end flat bar bikes. In many cases, these bikes are not available locally, with the Jamis Coda Elite, Specialized Sirrus Pro, and Rocky Mountain RC-70 being such examples. I'm not about to purchase a bike that I cannot test ride.


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## Ninja #2 (Aug 26, 2006)

Kinda sounds like you know what you want. Flat bars are cool. I kinda like them myself. But I don't own one, got two MTB's and 1 Road bike. If you can't try any high end flat bar (hybrids) bikes. Try any that fit, it's the feel, and ride your looking for. The main difference will be weight, speed and to some degree comfort. It's all in the feel, and only you are going to be able to tell what, you want.


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## henlin (Aug 7, 2006)

I've also gone from MTB to road bike recently and ended up with a Trek Pilot since I liked the more upright position a la MTB. You might also want to check out the Specialized Roubaix for its similar geometry.

For this particular setup, it's quite comfortable riding on the bars/hoods, and you'll get used to the braking and shifting pretty quickly. You'll also appreciate going into the drops when you encounter a particularly strong headwind.

-H


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## See65 (Sep 3, 2006)

henlin said:


> I've also gone from MTB to road bike recently and ended up with a Trek Pilot since I liked the more upright position a la MTB. You might also want to check out the Specialized Roubaix for its similar geometry.
> -H


I also just switched from MTB and these are the same to bikes that I looked at and also ended up on theTrek Pilot and absolutely love it.


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## rochrunner (Jul 11, 2006)

mfm said:


> Much as I would like a flat bar bike, in the back of my mind I keep thinking I should go with a true road bike.


I just upgraded from an MTB-style bike to a road bike and went with a Specialized Sequoia, which is similar in geometry to the Trek Pilot that some others have mentioned: "full road" style, but more relaxed riding position. Frankly, I don't see the point of flat bars since drop bars do have a flat section on top (the Sequoia has brake levers up there too) and there are a lot of hand-position choices compared to flat bars. Yes, you have to move your hands onto the hoods to shift, but it's really not a big deal for a recreational rider.

I just did my first 3+ hour, 50-mile ride this weekend and am convinced that I made a very good choice of bikes for myself.


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## Chris C. (Aug 21, 2006)

Well, this seems to be a common answer around here, but I made the switch about three months ago, tested those bikes listed above, and ended up on a Pilot 2.1. For me, it was the best feeling bike for the $$ I wanted to invest. 

Here is another point of view: I am a bigger rider (especially for a Road rider). Right now, I weigh about 215 and am 5'11". The relaxed geometry of the Pilot feels good, and I have shed 20 lbs. I find myself riding the 4+ hour rides because I enjoy it, not because I am forcing myself to. Now, I have no clue if you are in my boat, especially if you have already lost 50lbs, but I had to decide if I wanted a flat bar or "real" road bike. I am very happy I made the decision I made! It has increased my desire to ride as often as possible, gotten me in better shape, and greatly affected my MTB skills as well.

Long winded I know, but maybe it will help you decide.

Chris C.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

rochrunner said:


> I just upgraded from an MTB-style bike to a road bike and went with a Specialized Sequoia, which is similar in geometry to the Trek Pilot that some others have mentioned: "full road" style, but more relaxed riding position. Frankly, I don't see the point of flat bars since drop bars do have a flat section on top (the Sequoia has brake levers up there too) and there are a lot of hand-position choices compared to flat bars. Yes, you have to move your hands onto the hoods to shift, but it's really not a big deal for a recreational rider.


Having a set of brake levers on the flat section of the handlebar (like the Sequoia, Pilot 1.2, and some cyclocross bikes I have seen) looks appealing coming from a flat bar bike.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and advice. The bikes suggested (Pilot, Roubaix) are on my short list to consider along with the Lemond bikes, which all seem to have a slight upward angle to their top tubes.


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## uhkuhjillion (Aug 9, 2004)

Check out the specialized tricross as well. It comes with the top mount cross levers and also tires that are a bit more suited to urban road riding. I don't know what your price range is but I think a complete bike is about $1100 (but I've seen on sale locally for $900) for the lower end model and $1700 for the better equiped.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

I've thought about a cyclocross bike as a first road bike, but the typical gearing on them is configured with something like a 36T or 39T up front. Given my difficulties with hill climbing on my MTB, that wouldn't be low enough.


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## CBar (Oct 26, 2004)

*Check out an Axis...*

I also made the transition from MTB to road. Bought one of these a couple of years ago and love it. 11/32 SRAM in the rear, 26/36/48 up front.

http://www.bianchiusa.com/06_axis.html


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

CBar said:


> I also made the transition from MTB to road. Bought one of these a couple of years ago and love it. 11/32 SRAM in the rear, 26/36/48 up front.


I remember looking at the Bianchi Axis in the Spring of 2004 when I bought my MTB. I recall it being lighter than the MTBs I had demoed (22lbs for the 55cm bike, according to the 2004 web page). At the same time, it also felt sturdy, closer to a MTB than a road bike.

The gear ratios on this bike would be almost ideal for me for the type of riding I do. The only issues I see, other than the drop bars, is that the 52cm frame has a fairly high standover of 30.5" (for a 52cm frame) and a somewhat short effective top tube (for me).

There is a bike shop about 15 minutes from home that carries Bianchi bikes, so it sounds like I should revisit the Axis for a test ride.


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

You could make your current bike work by pumping the fork up hard and fixing the derailleur. It seems kind of a waste to buy a completely new bike that's the same thing that your old bike could be if it was set up right and repaired.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

Attempts were made to try to manually "lock out" the fork, but at maximum recommended PSI, the fork still bounced. We even tried going a bit beyond max PSI, but that seemed to make little difference. I would say that the fork was perhaps the most mismatched component on my MTB.

In addition, I have zero interest in any off-road riding. For me, it makes more sense to purchase a bike that is more road worthy than my MTB. Some people have no problem using a MTB for everyday riding, and for the last couple of years, I was fine with it too. But not anymore.


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

Lose the MTB....one poster calls those things 'an energy sink' for road use, and that pretty much sums it up. Off road, they are supreme, but on the road, even with gearing, they're just pigs to push around. I 3rd the Specialized Roubaix; you won't find me getting back on my MTB unless I do some half serious singletrack. If you want gearing closer to your MTB, there's the Bianchi Volpe (you're going to look at the Axis anyway) which has a 28 ring in the front and a 32 ring in the back, so there's yer inverse ratio. I've changed my Roubaix to 30/27 as my low, and while this has helped, there are mountains around here where I wished I had 38/32.


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## Meat Foot (Jul 13, 2005)

mfm said:


> There is a bike shop about 15 minutes from home that carries Bianchi bikes, so it sounds like I should revisit the Axis for a test ride.


Check out the Bianchi Volpe as well. It has a more light touring/light CX feel. It rides very nice. I spend most of the time on the hoods. But, now and again I go to the flats. I like the gearing on it and it feels very solid. It is a little heavier than some of the bikes listed (but mine has a rack and fenders).

Your on the right track though, just test a bunch of bikes!


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

I had a chance to check out the Bianchi Axis yesterday. Very nice bike. I won't get a chance to test ride it until this weekend, but if there ever was going to be a road-style bike that I would be interested in, the Axis is it. I actually found two different dealers within 15 minutes of home carrying the Axis, so I have more than one option.

One side note: I came home to look at the Axis web page and noticed that Bianchi's web site was updated for 2007. The 2007 Axis now has a double (50/34) instead of the 2006's triple (48/36/26) while using the same cassette (11/32).



Meat Foot said:


> Check out the Bianchi Volpe as well.


I did see this bike there too. Maybe I've been riding on my MTB too long, but I looked at the narrow top tube and thought "one good hole/bump in the road and this frame will collapse"! I had the same opinion of the Jamis Coda bikes when I saw them online. I know it is not true, but still ...


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## Meat Foot (Jul 13, 2005)

mfm said:


> I did see this bike there too. Maybe I've been riding on my MTB too long, but I looked at the narrow top tube and thought "one good hole/bump in the road and this frame will collapse"! I had the same opinion of the Jamis Coda bikes when I saw them online. I know it is not true, but still ...


Because it is steel. I have 1000 fold free miles on mine  

I use it as my commuter. Very solid. I get out of the saddle, crank, and it goes!

Have fun (hope you do not mind the suggestion, may not be entirely what you are looking for...but hey options are good).


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## pspycho (Sep 7, 2005)

Fourth on the Specialized Roubaix. It has a very comfortable rid and geometry. Not super twitchy, but still used by some pros to race on. I own a RockHopper that I've upgraded (bad case of upgrade-itis) nicely with a lighter 3lb. Skareb fork, SRAM X.9 Rear, Avid Brakes & Levers, EC70 Carbon Bar, etc. It's pretty light for a sub $800 MTB (23lbs. or so) and I still love it.

BUT, last week I bought an '05 Spec. Roubaix Elite Double. Love it! Soaks up the bumps just as well as my Rockhopper on the road with slicks on it (maybe better). It's also much faster and "quicker." It only takes me a few hard pedals to gain some serious speed vs. quite a few more on the MTB. I never really understood the benefits of a stiff carbon frame, but now I do. I really enjoy both bikes and hope to continue my mix of trail and road riding. The geometry of the road bike took some getting use to, as did the drops, shifting/braking, but overall it's a big improvement from riding my MTB on the road with slicks. 

Truly, from a health benefit standpoint, there is really no difference - as my wife kindly pointed out :blush2: . But it's hard (not impossible) to keep up with my friends on a road ride when they're all riding road bikes and I'm on the MTB. Now I can beat 'em...


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## CBar (Oct 26, 2004)

Yea, looks like the '07s went with a compact. Not so terrible, but this old dude likes the triple in a pinch.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

As I get ready for my test rides this weekend, someone at work suggested the following. The recommendation was to get a road bike that I liked and could afford, and later if I decided that I didn't the drop bars that I could always replace it with a flat bar.

This idea would incur the added cost of a new handlebar, new shifters, and new brake handles. But it seems that there is an even bigger issue with this idea. I find that the geometry on most road bikes that fit me tends to be more compact compared to the MTB I had and the other flat bar bikes I have looked at. A shorter top tube and shorter wheelbase would mean I would be more upright than I was on my MTB. I don't think I would like that.

Has anyone else gone down the path of putting a flat bar on a road bike? For someone like myself who is unsure about the move to a road bike, having an "out" would make it easier to commit to a new bike.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

*if you want a FB road bike take at look at this one....*

Under $450

http://www.nytro.com/Scott_2006_Speedster_S60_Complete_Bike_p/sct06s60.htm


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## filtersweep (Feb 4, 2004)

I am concerned about your fit.

I started out as a rec. mtn biker turned road biker, then later rediscovered mountain biking after moving to the mountains (although I still prefer the road).

These are my findings--- road bikes fit much more comfortably than mtn bikes-- the more upright position of mountain bikes places different stress on the butt, and the flat bars cause nerve problems in my wrists. My road bike has no discomfort associated with it.

My first road bike was sized too small, because I didn't believe the experts at the shop. Most people like smaller mountain bikes for their handling in technical trails. Why are you feeling cramped? Are you riding in the drops all the time? Or are you just not accustomed to the road fit.



mfm said:


> As I get ready for my test rides this weekend, someone at work suggested the following. The recommendation was to get a road bike that I liked and could afford, and later if I decided that I didn't the drop bars that I could always replace it with a flat bar.
> 
> This idea would incur the added cost of a new handlebar, new shifters, and new brake handles. But it seems that there is an even bigger issue with this idea. I find that the geometry on most road bikes that fit me tends to be more compact compared to the MTB I had and the other flat bar bikes I have looked at. A shorter top tube and shorter wheelbase would mean I would be more upright than I was on my MTB. I don't think I would like that.
> 
> Has anyone else gone down the path of putting a flat bar on a road bike? For someone like myself who is unsure about the move to a road bike, having an "out" would make it easier to commit to a new bike.


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## serpico7 (Jul 11, 2006)

I also switched from an mtb to road bike as I found myself using the mtb more and more for on-road riding. Got an Orbea. It's not a relaxed geometry bike like the Roubaix, but if you're reasonably flexible, you'll grow into the more racy geometry of conventional road bikes. Plus, it's pretty easy to get a more relaxed fit on a conventional road bike - just raise the bars using spacers, get a higher rise and shorter stem, slide the saddle forward, etc. As you become more flexible, you can reverse some or all of these changes.

Don't bother with a flat bar. After some time on the bike, I suspect your hands will migrate from the flat portion of the bar to the drops.

Gearing - get a triple or compact double. IMHO, the standard gearing on road bikes is too tall for the average non-competitive cyclist (unless you frequently find yourself drafting behind trucks on downhills). There are many posts on triple vs. compact double. I use a compact and prefer it because it eliminates one more chainring shift. Depending on the cassette you use, you can get the same gear range with a compact double as with a triple. Some will say such a setup has too large a step between gears forcing you to change your cadence, but I think this is only really an issue if you're riding pacelines. Check forum posts on gearing choices for hills. If you use a compact 50/34 or so, with a 27t large cog, that gives you a 34-inch gear, which should be enough for decently hilly areas. It sounds like you use a 26-inch gear on your mtb, but I think you will find you can push a slightly bigger gear on a road bike than on a mtb on the same hill. An 8-inch gear jump is big though, so maybe check into triples or very small compacts (if these are made?) and use with 27t or larger cassettes.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.


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## mfm (Sep 12, 2006)

filtersweep said:


> I am concerned about your fit.
> 
> Most people like smaller mountain bikes for their handling in technical trails. Why are you feeling cramped? Are you riding in the drops all the time? Or are you just not accustomed to the road fit.


Sorry if I misled you. I have only test ridden a few road bikes. My riding for the past couple of years has been exclusively on a MTB.

The MTB in question is a 2004 Gary Fisher HKEK in a 17.5" (medium) frame. I'm 5'8" with a 32" inseam, so I don't think I went too small. But because of length of my arms (35" sleeve is long for someone my height), I also had a 120mm stem (normal for this bike is 90mm).

The HKEK has an effective top tube of 23.9" (607mm), which for its frame size is one of the longest I encountered when demoing MTBs back in 2004. Between that and the stem length, I am fairly stretched out on the bike. Yet I have never encountered any back issues, nor any tailbone soreness from the occasional 2 hour rides.


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