# Anyone with a wahoo kickr experience this shifting issue?



## jeri534 (Jul 6, 2013)

If this is the wrong forum I'm sorry
I recently received my new wahoo kickr and got it set up last night. I verified my bikes hub is 130mm. (Trek Emonda SL6 Pro, Vision Metron 40 wheels, 11-28 11 speed ultegra cassette). When my bike is properly mounted, my shifting is not proper. I cannot get into my largest cog in the back, and if I shift past the smallest cog the chain will shift off the cog itself. And during the rides the chain can be noisy in some gears. My bike shifts flawlessly on the road with my wheel on, is there anything I can try to get my shifting to work properly?

Thanks


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## srosenfeld (Sep 21, 2009)

What cassette do you have on the Kickr? I would try to match the cassettes.


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## jeri534 (Jul 6, 2013)

It's an 11 speed as well, as far as the gearing im not sure and I haven't found online that specifies that


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

jeri534 said:


> If this is the wrong forum I'm sorry
> I recently received my new wahoo kickr and got it set up last night. I verified my bikes hub is 130mm. (Trek Emonda SL6 Pro, Vision Metron 40 wheels, 11-28 11 speed ultegra cassette). When my bike is properly mounted, my shifting is not proper. I cannot get into my largest cog in the back, and if I shift past the smallest cog the chain will shift off the cog itself. And during the rides the chain can be noisy in some gears. My bike shifts flawlessly on the road with my wheel on, is there anything I can try to get my shifting to work properly?
> 
> Thanks


I know nothing about the KickR but it sure sounds like the cassette is positioned differently on the KickR. I believe you need a shim to use the Kicker with 9 and 10s cassettes. Could it be that you have a shim installed by accident with your 11s cassette?


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## blackfrancois (Jul 6, 2016)

jeri534 said:


> My bike shifts flawlessly on the road with my wheel on, is there anything I can try to get my shifting to work properly?


keep the wheel on there?


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## pittcanna (Oct 2, 2014)

There may be a slight alignment issue.

1. Prior to mounting the bike on the kickr, make sure your bike has been shifted to a cog 5 or 6. I would keep the chain on the biggest chain ring.

2. Make sure your qr axle is not bent on your kickr. 

3. Make sure the through axle mountin bike adapter is pressed in fully.

4. Place the bike on the kickr straight down.

5. Make sure the rear of the bike is flush down into the trainer, sometimes it helps to remove the little springs on the quick release axle on the rainer.

6. Tighten the quick release.

7.With your hand just hand pedal for a few cycles.

8. as you are hand pedaling shift your gears, first all the way to the largest cog, then all the way down to the smallest cog.

9.If its not going all the way to the largest or smallest cog, 2-3 turns on your barrel adjuster may be required.

While the cassette is for an 11 speed drive bike i have noticed there is about 1 to 2 mm difference from when my bike is on a wheel versus when it is on the kickr.


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## pittcanna (Oct 2, 2014)

The shim is a 1.8mm spacer that looks like a ring it is not required for the shimano 11 speed cassette.


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## pittcanna (Oct 2, 2014)

But the short answer is after its mounted you adjust the barrel adjuster for your rear derailuer.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

Just like putting a different wheel on a bike, you should be checking and adjusting your limit screws and adjust the cable tension to get the shifting dialed in with any wheel off trainer.


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## jeri534 (Jul 6, 2013)

So I took the bike off and checked everything over, remounted it and it is now working great. Must have been misaligned when I initially installed thanks for the replies and suggestions


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## tfinator (Nov 4, 2009)

jeri534 said:


> So I took the bike off and checked everything over, remounted it and it is now working great. Must have been misaligned when I initially installed thanks for the replies and suggestions


That's good, because you should never need to redo limit screws and play with barrel adjusters for the equivalent of a wheel change. Anyone who says otherwise probably shouldn't be giving mechanical advice.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


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## pittcanna (Oct 2, 2014)

tfinator said:


> That's good, because you should never need to redo limit screws and play with barrel adjusters for the equivalent of a wheel change. Anyone who says otherwise probably shouldn't be giving mechanical advice.
> 
> Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


Limit screws - absolutely not

However a barrel adjuster might need a little adjustment. As the spacing might not 100% in line. I also know of a few people just by changing a tube have inadvertently knocked the barrel out of adjustment.


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## tfinator (Nov 4, 2009)

pittcanna said:


> Limit screws - absolutely not
> 
> However a barrel adjuster might need a little adjustment. As the spacing might not 100% in line. I also know of a few people just by changing a tube have inadvertently knocked the barrel out of adjustment.


I've never had to, maybe I'm just Lucky.

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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

pittcanna said:


> Limit screws - absolutely not





tfinator said:


> That's good, because you should never need to redo limit screws and play with barrel adjusters for the equivalent of a wheel change. Anyone who says otherwise probably shouldn't be giving mechanical advice.
> 
> Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


you guys should have your wrenches confiscated if you actually own any and/or have ever worked on a bike. Moving on, good luck!


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## tfinator (Nov 4, 2009)

Srode said:


> you guys should have your wrenches confiscated if you actually own any and/or have ever worked on a bike. Moving on, good luck!


How funny would it be if the mechanics in the tour had to do a limit screw adjustment every time there was a flat?

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk


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## ParadigmDawg (Aug 2, 2012)

I have the same issue and likely the cassette on the Wahoo isn't exactly "right" but I just turn the barrel 4 clicks when I put the bike on the trainer and 4 clicks the other way before I hit the road.


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## OldChipper (May 15, 2011)

I realize this is a bit old, but....
I had the same problem with the Gen1 Kickr. Using the 130mm setting, if I looked carefully, when tightening the quick release, the rear triangle was getting squeezed enough to mess up the shifting. Could possibly also account for the few instances of people whose carbon frames have broken(?). 

I flipped the little adapter thingy to the 135 position and voila, no more compression or shifting problems and no trouble getting the bike into the trainer either. 

I wonder if the Gen1 adapter is off a bit. 

But yeah, in/out of the trainer, you shouldn't have to adjust the RD at all.


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