# Best Oil Chain Lubricant



## Midwest Playa

Hello Everyone!!!

I am not sure if this topic has been brought up in the past but anyways, I just shelled out some sereous bucks on a brand new Cassette Sram Red and KMC Chain. My cassette was less than 1 year old and it was worn, My mechanic told me due to lack of lubrication which is the #1 reason for wear and tear on chains and cassette.

Now I have been reading up on the diffrent lubricants including this stuff called Purple Extreme dry lube being sold by Probike kit.

http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A1535

Can I get your opinion as to whats the best lubricant to use out there and and why?? I live in the Midwest and I know we have gotten alot of rain here lately but overall its pretty dry conditions.

Thanks in Advance

MidwestPlaya:thumbsup:


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## milkbaby

This is one of the most common topics with lots of different approaches to chain/drivetrain maintenance. First, read this:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

I like to use one of the "self-cleaning" lubes: just squirt it on while cranking backwards, then wipe off all the gunk. Wait overnight and wipe it down again, voila: yer done! The drier lubes supposedly pick up less grit but wash off quicker in the wet. The wetter lubes won't go away as quick in the wet but pick up more gunk. Regardless, after a rainstorm ride, I always relube... 1500-2000 miles on my current setup and no measurable chainwear yet (by the ruler method).

Did you ride 5000-10000 miles last year and never lubed your chain?


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## krisdrum

Homebrew.


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## Opus51569

I just recently starting using homebrew myself and it seems to work pretty well thus far.


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## nOOky

I always use White Lightening, and I get years on a cassette and chain etc. I always lube the chain before every ride though.


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## Midwest Playa

Thanks for the input Milk,

To be honest I dont do any tye of maintenance on my Supersix I have 3 boys that cleans the bike for me but I think they have not done a good job in lubricating the chain. I just checked the oil bottles I purchased 2 years ago and they are still pretty full except for the smaller bottle.lols Are any of these any good? I just picked them up at my local bike shop.

I did 3k last year thats about it and when I replaced my chain last week thats when the skipping started on the cassette, so the shop recommended a new Sram Red Cassette and the problem was fixed.

I think I will try the oil that cleans and lube at the same time.

Thanks


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## Mike T.

Best? Homebrew. It works perfectly, has for hmmm 15-20 years and I'm never going back.


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## dougydee

Those lubes will work fine. I've been using homebrew the last 6 months with good results. Any lubrication is better than no lubrication.


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## Midwest Playa

dougydee said:


> Those lubes will work fine. I've been using homebrew the last 6 months with good results. Any lubrication is better than no lubrication.



Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols

Thanks

Midwestplaya


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## Dutch77

Chain-L is my favorite. Great stuff, last longer than anything else I've tried.


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## BruceG1

Midwest Playa said:


> Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Midwestplaya


 I beleive homebrew is a mixture of 3:1 odorless mineral spirts and oil.


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## Opus51569

Midwest Playa said:


> Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Midwestplaya


Homebrew = 3 or 4 parts Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS) mixed with 1 part motor oil. Some folks will let their chain sit in the solution. I mix mine in a small plastic bottle with a narrow tip so I can apply to the chain on the bike.


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## Mike T.

Midwest Playa said:


> Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own?


You must be very new here. There are lots of threads on this. It's a 50/50 mix for me - mineral spirits and synthetic engine oil. A liter of each lasts me years and years and costs maybe $10.


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## Kai Winters

I like TriFlo


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## Hooben

ProLink chain lube is the best for me. 

http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html


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## marckap

Rock & Roll Gold Lube for me, easy to put on and cleans as it goes on.


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## Kerry Irons

*Standard advice*



Midwest Playa said:


> Can I get your opinion as to whats the best lubricant to use out there and and why?? I live in the Midwest and I know we have gotten alot of rain here lately but overall its pretty dry conditions.


Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates. 
3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube. 
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag. 
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty 


Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


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## Mr. Versatile

I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. I apply it pretty heavily. The OMS will dissolve and float the dirt off the chain, then evaporate and leave the oil as a lubricant. Then, while that's drying I'll do the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. I clean them using the odorless mineral spirits (OMS) without oil. Park's cog cleaning brush is good for doing the cassette. For the chain rings, I just use a rag with OMS sprayed on it and wipe them down while I'm turning the cranks. I do the same to the rear derailleur pulleys and any other parts of the derailleurs or brakes that are grungy. Park's brush is useful here too.

By now the chain is dry enough to wipe down although I like to leave it overnight. I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.

I clean all the drive train once every 200 - 300 miles, and immediately after every rain ride.


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## cxwrench

Kerry Irons said:


> Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:
> 
> 1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
> 2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
> 3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube.
> 4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
> 5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty
> 
> 
> Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.
> 
> No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.


+1 on the AFTER ride...NOT before, you must give the solvents time to dry off so the lube doesn't splatter all over everything and attract a lot of extra grit and dirt. any light lube (tri flow, prolink, dumonde, or homebrew) will work great. don't use too much, wipe off all you can. 
i do think a 'bright, shiny, well lubed chain is possible, every bike on the team i wrench for has one all the time. of course i wash those bikes every day, and clean everything on the drive train and re-lube. not everyone will want to do that much work, but it's definitely possible if you're into it. every pro racers bike looks brand new every day.


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## acid_rider

i have been using ProLink ProGold for last 5 years and have zero complaints. 
I always lube *after* the ride or about 24 hours or more before any ride, as other indicated. I am too lazy to brew my own. with proLink ProGold you wont use all that much lube and its not all that expensive. I lube every ~500-600km or so.


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## GerryR

You have a Cannondale Super Six and leave it to your kids to maintain it?


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## |3iker

OP, for the best oil chain, you must journey to the land of the Golden Rhinos. There look towards the Seven Sisters of Heaven during the month of Ramadan. The 3rd Sister should be right above The Table of Armstrong. You must make the climb to the top where you will come across a small cave known as Landis' Mouth. In there you will find the Emerald Pool. It is in this pool that you will find the best oil for your chain. Legend has it that this pool is made out from the tears of 10,000 baby Cherubs.
Remember to not look at the eyes of Medusa! Good luck brave one.

Failing that or you are too chicken for it, the advise of the prior posters will suffice.


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## Peanya

At 3000 miles, your cassette was not worn out, even if you didn't lube your chain at all. Maybe if you rode it in the dirt all the time, but for road riding, you should get a lot more miles from a cassete. 
Many shops will tell you the cassette wears out fast just to make a sale. There are many people who will get years of use out of a cassette. Heck, there's bikes from the '80's still with their originals on them.


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## jmlapoint

*Chain-l Lube*



Dutch77 said:


> Chain-L is my favorite. Great stuff, last longer than anything else I've tried.


+1 for for Chain-L Lube
Best lube I've ever used, and I have experimented with lots including Homebrew.
Chain-L lasts forever, is very quiet and smooth, and very little dirt accumulation like other thick lubes.
A large bottle is only $12,and with only 1-drop per roller, a bottle lasts a long time.

john


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## Clicker7

Boeshield T-9 does a good job!


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## ZoSoSwiM

I love Prolink Gold. It's easy to use... It cleans the chain as well. 

Someday I might try home brew.. but I have 3 bottles of my PLG and it'll be a while before I need more. A little Mobile 1 synthetic should do the trick

I like the idea of having a container of oil for soaking the chain.. Cleaning with degreaser and such is a pain. Soaking the chain to entirely clean it with oil might be a nice alternative.


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## daniell

*Melted Paraffin*

I wonder why more people don't dip their in melted paraffin. The chain stays clean. I just re-dip when necessary.


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## shudson16

I just replaced my chain last week. Not because of being worn out but because of surface rust on the outer plates. The mechanic ( very well respected and a professional bike mechanic of many years, not just someone working at a bike shop ) said that the rust wasn't an issue. not to worry about it. I bought a new one anyway because I'm anal about things like that and I didn't like the looks of rust on my chain. When asked about lubrication for the new chain his answer was " never, don't lube it at all. Maybe after 3000 miles then consider it.
Unless you ride in rain all the time you should never have to lube it. The lube that's on the chain from the factory is the best lube that chain will ever have. Leave it alone." Good enough for me. 

An observation on homebrew. I decided to give it a try, 3:1 OMS and motor oil. Worked great at cleaning the chain and cassette, all the parts looked brand new. Everything felt and looked lubed also and appeared to hold up well after several hundred miles. The only thing I didn't like was the noise from the drivetrain after a cleaning. It sounded as if there was no lube on the chain at all. Much more noisy than before. I had to add a little FinishLine Teflon dry lube to quieten it down. That was my biggest issue with experimenting with homebrew. 
My .02 cents


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## Mike T.

shudson16 said:


> An observation on homebrew. I decided to give it a try, 3:1 OMS and motor oil. Worked great at cleaning the chain and cassette, all the parts looked brand new. Everything felt and looked lubed also and appeared to hold up well after several hundred miles. The only thing I didn't like was the noise from the drivetrain after a cleaning. It sounded as if there was no lube on the chain at all. Much more noisy than before. I had to add a little FinishLine Teflon dry lube to quieten it down. That was my biggest issue with experimenting with homebrew.
> My .02 cents


I don't know what you're doing wrong as I've never experienced this in years (well into double digits) of Homebrew use. I just cleaned and re-lubed before my last ride and there was the normal silence afterwards.


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## Pieter

Mr. Versatile said:


> I We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. QUOTE]
> 
> I hear you and bike drivetrains cost less than space shuttle parts.
> 
> But don't underestimate the chain lube's task. There's grit, there's water. And the loads are high on those miniscule little link pins. Not much bearing surface at all.


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## shudson16

Mike T. said:


> I don't know what you're doing wrong as I've never experienced this in years (well into double digits) of Homebrew use. I just cleaned and re-lubed before my last ride and there was the normal silence afterwards.


I've got a mtb that I'll try the homebrew on and see how it does. Maybe I need to add a touch more motor oil? Like I said, my chain is clean as a whistle and lubed to spec after I use the stuff but the noise...........like there's nothing on the chain at all. Maybe I just noticed a difference in the quietness because I was used to things being gunked with road smegma and that made the drivetrain quieter? My chains used to get really funked up but they didn't make any noise. Oh well, I'll do some more experimenting. It's not like it cost a lot or takes much time.


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## Mike T.

shudson16 said:


> I've got a mtb that I'll try the homebrew on and see how it does. Maybe I need to add a touch more motor oil? Like I said, my chain is clean as a whistle and lubed to spec after I use the stuff but the noise...........like there's nothing on the chain at all. Maybe I just noticed a difference in the quietness because I was used to things being gunked with road smegma and that made the drivetrain quieter? My chains used to get really funked up but they didn't make any noise. Oh well, I'll do some more experimenting. It's not like it cost a lot or takes much time.


I use 50/50 (always have; always will) and maybe the extra oil makes for more P&Q. I dunno.


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## Oxtox

daniell said:


> I wonder why more people don't dip their in melted paraffin. The chain stays clean. I just re-dip when necessary.


1978 just called and said this is a great idea.

people used to do this (I did once upon a time) but it's a serious waste of time...removing the chain, melting paraffin, dipping, and re-installing the chain.

there's really a much easier method. just get an old t-shirt, hold it in one hand and grasp the chain while you turn the cranks with the other. pinch the rollers for a while then switch and pinch the sideplates for a bit...30 seconds each should be enough. 

apply X, Y, or Z brand lube.

done.


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## Mike T.

Oxtox said:


> just get an old t-shirt, hold it in one hand and grasp the chain while you turn the cranks with the other. pinch the rollers for a while then switch and pinch the sideplates for a bit...30 seconds each should be enough.


That's all I've ever done except that I use an old towel & spray it with WD-40 to help cut the muck. If the job is easy and cheap then we're motivated to do it more often and that's what helps drivetrains - frequency, not fancy equipment, potions or processes.


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## AJL

ZoSoSwiM said:


> I like the idea of having a container of oil for soaking the chain.. Cleaning with degreaser and such is a pain. Soaking the chain to entirely clean it with oil might be a nice alternative.


So what do people do, buy a master link? Otherwise you'd have to keep breaking the chain and re-pinning it.


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## dysfunction

AJL said:


> So what do people do, buy a master link? Otherwise you'd have to keep breaking the chain and re-pinning it.


I clean the chain on my mtb that way, far more often than I soak my road bike chain, and since I run a SRAM chain on that.. it came with one. Course, there's a KMC chain on my road bike currently, it's been a while since I used a shimano chain come to think of it.


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## ZoSoSwiM

I only run chains with master links... I'm obsessive about cleaning my drive train.. I figure if I'm going to spend the money on quality parts I'm going to take care of them.

Hell.. I soaked my chain and cassette last night and thoroughly cleaned my derailleurs as well. Nothing better than a sparkling clean system. So damn smooth


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## Mr. Versatile

Pieter said:


> Mr. Versatile said:
> 
> 
> 
> I We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. QUOTE]
> 
> I hear you and bike drivetrains cost less than space shuttle parts.
> 
> But don't underestimate the chain lube's task. There's grit, there's water. And the loads are high on those miniscule little link pins. Not much bearing surface at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. That's why I recommended the lube & cleaning method I did. Even though the loads can be high, the speeds are low. IMO & IME just about any oil will work just fine. As I indicated, I clean & re lube mine running gear about every 300-400 mi. I just use regular motor oil that I use in my car. If it'll stand up the the heavy loads, speed and temperature for 5,000 - 6,000 miles in my car's engine, I figure it'll be just fine on my bicycle chain, especially if I change it every 3-400 miles.
Click to expand...


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## Kerry Irons

*Say what?*



shudson16 said:


> The mechanic ( very well respected and a professional bike mechanic of many years, not just someone working at a bike shop ) said that the rust wasn't an issue. not to worry about it. I bought a new one anyway because I'm anal about things like that and I didn't like the looks of rust on my chain. When asked about lubrication for the new chain his answer was " never, don't lube it at all. Maybe after 3000 miles then consider it. Unless you ride in rain all the time you should never have to lube it. The lube that's on the chain from the factory is the best lube that chain will ever have. Leave it alone." Good enough for me.


Your "very well respected and a professional bike mechanic" was right about the surface rust, but couldn't be more wrong about never lubing a chain. That is a recipe for rapid chain wear (and associated drive train wear) plus probably poor shifting. I work in a program that rejuvinates old bikes to give to poor folks. I see a lot of chains that obviously were never lubed. It is not a pretty sight.


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## teleguy57

*Chain-L -- that's all you need to know...*

I don't usually rave about products, but +11 for Chain-L. Not only is Francis great with customer service, but the stuff works wonders. I get at least 700 miles per application, and the chain is quiet and smooth.

Yes, it takes a bit of work to apply per his instructions, but it lasts and lubes like nothing else. Pro-link was the next closest but not close enought. Home-brew -- mostly ok, white lighting was clean but didn't lube very well.

Great value -- if you try the sample bottom you'll not go back to anything else (and it will last you quite a while too if you follow the instructions and use sparingly).

One trick I found is to use a heat gun (chain off the bike!) to warm the chain while the bottle is warming in a pan of water. This stuff is viscous like nothing else, so the heat helps it penetrate faster. Not required, but speeds things up.


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## PlatyPius

Dutch77 said:


> Chain-L is my favorite. Great stuff, last longer than anything else I've tried.


Another vote for Chain-L. I love the stuff.


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## jmlapoint

*Chain-l Lube*



teleguy57 said:


> I don't usually rave about products, but +11 for Chain-L. Not only is Francis great with customer service, but the stuff works wonders. I get at least 700 miles per application, and the chain is quiet and smooth.
> 
> Yes, it takes a bit of work to apply per his instructions, but it lasts and lubes like nothing else. Pro-link was the next closest but not close enought. Home-brew -- mostly ok, white lighting was clean but didn't lube very well.
> 
> Great value -- if you try the sample bottom you'll not go back to anything else (and it will last you quite a while too if you follow the instructions and use sparingly).
> 
> One trick I found is to use a heat gun (chain off the bike!) to warm the chain while the bottle is warming in a pan of water. This stuff is viscous like nothing else, so the heat helps it penetrate faster. Not required, but speeds things up.


I put a small dropper bottle of Chain-L in a plastic cup of water and heat in the microwave for 1min 30sec.
This hot lube I drip 1-drop on each roller and it penetrates quickly.

I agree that Chain-L is the best Lube I've ever used, and I have tried them all.

john


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## SwiftSolo

Opus51569 said:


> Homebrew = 3 or 4 parts Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS) mixed with 1 part motor oil. Some folks will let their chain sit in the solution. I mix mine in a small plastic bottle with a narrow tip so I can apply to the chain on the bike.


I pour the solution into a Park chain cleaner (with internal brushes) and clean and lube it at the same time. The mineral spirits work as a solvent until it evaporates. Run it through the second time with clean solution of the 1 to 1 mineral and 30 weight motor oil (same solution I use during cleaning). 

For those who don't know (not you opus), the mineral spirits serve to make the solution thin (less viscous) so it runs into the rollers. It then evaporates and leaves the oil that it brought in with it.


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## Pieter

Mr. Versatile said:


> Pieter said:
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the loads can be high, the speeds are low. .
> 
> 
> 
> The low speeds are the problem, though. Oil is forced out between two slow moving
> bearing surfaces of the chain. Which is why grease is the lube of choice for a chain, if you could get it properly into the links like they do in the factory.
> 
> In a car engine, the speeds are high, the oil film cannot escape and maintains a bulk lubrication layer - a water ski is a rough analogy.
> 
> But even at low speeds a good oil maintains a film - a boundary layer of lubrication. I feel just a little better about using a specific synthetic chain lube for (probably and hopefully) containing the sort of EP additives specifically suitable for this task. Finish Line Green has a nice smell - and not for nothing. It is the smell of a synthetic di-ester which offers a tenacious oil film and excellent metal wetting (penetration).
> 
> And the EP additives (like zinc dithio-phospate) in car engine oil only really start working when hot. For homebrew use, I would lean towards transmission oil - GL5 -spec rear axle hypoid oil. I am planning to do just this on my commuter, to check the tenacity and cleanliness of such a homebrew, and to see if the stink of a rear axle oil will be noticeable and bearable
Click to expand...


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## Pieter

ZoSoSwiM said:


> I only run chains with master links... I'm obsessive about cleaning my drive train.. I figure if I'm going to spend the money on quality parts I'm going to take care of them.
> 
> Hell.. I soaked my chain and cassette last night and thoroughly cleaned my derailleurs as well. Nothing better than a sparkling clean system. So damn smooth



+1.

A master link just makes it so easy. 

You can clean the chain properly, at the same time access the rest. 
Clean the drivetrain often, and it stays easy to clean. 

Carefully wipe the chainring teeth using an old paintbrush slightly damp with kerosene, follow with soapy sponge. It takes one minute. Same with the cassette and derailleur.

Shake the chain in a bottle with kerosene, save the kerosene, shake the chain in soapy water, sponge it with more soap, rinse, dry, lube while warm. Heck, it can be done in minutes, quicker than struggling with very limited success with a grimy chain on the bike.


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## Killroy

Rock & Roll or ProLink because I am too lazy to use a de-greaser or make home brew.


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## PlatyPius

Killroy said:


> Rock & Roll or ProLink because I am too lazy to use a de-greaser or make home brew.


Killroy Was Here...


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## GirchyGirchy

Kai Winters said:


> I like TriFlo


Me too, it smells great.


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## AJL

I don't like wax in solvent (e.g. White Lightning). When I tried it I needed to apply it almost every ride and that just silly. I've never tried PTFE lubes on chains.


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## nayr497

Empty contact solution bottles work very nicely for homebrew lube. Nice little tip to drop the solution onto the chain.

(the bottles with little snap tops that also allow you to pull the entire top off to fill it up with homebrew)

And yeah, if you do a quick cleaning/lubing once a week or so, the job is pretty easy and doesn't take much time. The more often the better.


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## Elfstone

marckap said:


> Rock & Roll Gold Lube for me, easy to put on and cleans as it goes on.


Another vote for Rock nRoll Gold, been using it for the four years and it works really well at cleaning and lubing.

Peace


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## carbonLORD

Pedros Extra Dry for the last 11 years.


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## eekase

PlatyPius said:


> Another vote for Chain-L. I love the stuff.


Here too...another vote for Chain-L. Used it last year and still have plenty left for this year. They sent me two small sample bottles free, when I purchased a normal size bottle. (Don't know if they still offer that.) Quiets the chain down nicely.


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## SidNitzerglobin

Been using Rock'nRoll Gold on my road bike for Spring/Summer and RnR Blue on my MTB year round. I plan to start using the Blue on the road bike once weather gets consistently crappy in fall/winter.


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## SFTifoso

Sorry to revive an old thread, but wouldn't using manual transmission oil work better with the Homebrew mix. MT oil has extreme pressure additives which oils like Chain-L use, hence the strong sulfur smell.


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## PlatyPius

SFTifoso said:


> Sorry to revive an old thread, but wouldn't using manual transmission oil work better with the Homebrew mix. MT oil has extreme pressure additives which oils like Chain-L use, hence the strong sulfur smell.


Now you've done it.... the homebrew guys are fanatical.


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## .je

SFTifoso said:


> Sorry to revive an old thread, but wouldn't using manual transmission oil work better with the Homebrew mix. MT oil has extreme pressure additives which oils like Chain-L use, hence the strong sulfur smell.


I tried exactly that with some leftover G70 I still had.

Holy ****, it was awful. Never, never, again. Never. I couldn't even bring the bike indoors into my own home.

'Extreme Pressure' is, I think, not really happening on your bicycle's drivetrain.
This might help: I did some googoogling, and found some numbers:
How to Calculate Chain Tension | eHow
Rolling Contact Fatigue of Surface Densified PM Gears - Gear Solutions Magazine
Technical FAQ: More on lubricating chains with wax - VeloNews.com
Looks like bicycle chain can be something like 2,200psi, and manual transmission gears, in compression at least, about 290,000psi (not to even consider the very high shear loads on gear teeth as they slide across each other, something like 68,000psi). Even if you account for the bike chain operating at an angle and putting many times more load on one side plate than the other, it's nowhere near the range of an automobile transmission. 
I might also estimate that the rolling friction can add significantly more force and pressure than this direct compressive force, but surely nothing close to requiring the extreme pressure (and heat) additives of GL-4 and such types of oil (the additives that smell so bad).


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## Nubster

According to Sheldon Brown, motor oil is a no-no due to the detergents. Never tried it so I can't say how it works, seems folks swear by it though. 

I also know a lot of people that homebrew using chainsaw bar lube. That might be something to look at. If you're environmentally conscious you can even get biodegradable bar lube.


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## tednugent

Nubster said:


> According to Sheldon Brown, motor oil is a no-no due to the detergents. Never tried it so I can't say how it works, seems folks swear by it though.
> 
> I also know a lot of people that homebrew using chainsaw bar lube. That might be something to look at. If you're environmentally conscious you can even get biodegradable bar lube.


You can still buy straight weight non-detergent motor oils. Some racing oils don't have detergents


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## Nubster

tednugent said:


> You can still buy straight weight non-detergent motor oils. Some racing oils don't have detergents


True, but it seems most just use whatever they have for their car which 99% of the time will be oil with detergent. But who knows. Maybe it's fine. A lot of people seem to use it and don't report issues.


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## Mike T.

PlatyPius said:


> Now you've done it.... the homebrew guys are fanatical.


I'm as homebrewy and fanatical as anyone (and a licensed auto mechanic if that means anything where lube is concerned) and I think that as bike chains (and most other bike parts) are about as low tech as you can get in the mechanical world, that it matters not *what* type of oil is used, only that *something* is used and used often enough (about every 6 weeks or 600ish miles for me using 5-30 synthetic) to provide reasonable chain longevity - I'm into my 3rd year of a Sram chain (about 6500 miles I'll bet) and I'm still not up to the +1/16" holy grail.


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## tednugent

Mike T. said:


> I'm as homebrewy and fanatical as anyone (and a licensed auto mechanic if that means anything where lube is concerned) and I think that as bike chains (and most other bike parts) are about as low tech as you can get in the mechanical world, that it matters not *what* type of oil is used, only that *something* is used and used often enough (about every 6 weeks or 600ish miles for me using 5-30 synthetic) to provide reasonable chain longevity - I'm into my 3rd year of a Sram chain (about 6500 miles I'll bet) and I'm still not up to the +1/16" holy grail.


Aren't timing chains lubricated by engine oil?

I wouldn't know, since every car I owned has a timing belt


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## Mike T.

tednugent said:


> Aren't timing chains lubricated by engine oil?


Absolutely they are. But then they are sprayed with oil and not subjected to dirt - other than what accumulates in engine oil. So they have an easier life than a bike chain in some ways. I guess a lube engineer would look at the operating conditions of a bike chain and a car timing chain and specify the appropriate lube. Every bike chain lube maker wants us to believe that their concoction is the best lube since sliced bread (!). And *I* know that we should take the opinions of those who stand to make money off us with a dose of skepticism.

As I'm still on the same litre of engine oil (and same litre of paint thinner) that I bought about 15 years ago I haven't done much thinking recently about my next Homebrew mix. I'll probably go with chainsaw oil next time. I can't imagine any chain getting a much harder workout than one of those. But then my Mobil 1 synthetic has been stellar.


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## PlatyPius

Mike T. said:


> I'm as homebrewy and fanatical as anyone (and a licensed auto mechanic if that means anything where lube is concerned) and I think that as bike chains (and most other bike parts) are about as low tech as you can get in the mechanical world, that it matters not *what* type of oil is used, only that *something* is used and used often enough (about every 6 weeks or 600ish miles for me using 5-30 synthetic) to provide reasonable chain longevity - I'm into my 3rd year of a Sram chain (about 6500 miles I'll bet) and I'm still not up to the +1/16" holy grail.


I agree with that, as a former auto mechanic as well.

Too bad bike chains <strike>can't be</strike> aren't encased in a sealed crankcase. Then all of this would be a non-issue and chains would last for a long, long time.

Me, I use Chain-L because I don't like lubing my chain. Chain-L lasts longer and stays quiet longer. That's all I care about.


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## Mike T.

PlatyPius said:


> Too bad bike chains <strike>can't be</strike> aren't encased in a sealed crankcase. Then all of this would be a non-issue and chains would last for a long, long time.


I you lived in Holland and your commute was to the train station, it probably would be. Then your chain would last forever.



> Me, I use Chain-L because I don't like lubing my chain. Chain-L lasts longer and stays quiet longer. That's all I care about.


I go weeks between re-lubes (I don't really count) so then nothing else matters.


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