# first upgrade to 2009 CAAD 9 4 would be....?



## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

*first upgrade to 2010 CAAD 9 4 would be....?*

{subject edited for correct Model Year]

I'm now riding my first ever road bike. I used to buzz around all summer and race BMX a little when I was a teen, but it's been a couple of decades since that time. I am loving the roadie experience though.

So, I have a couple hundred miles on my 2009 CAAD9 4 (54cm). I think I made a good choice and even doing the dreaded post-purchase research I don't think I could have gotten any more bike for the money -- maybe a tie, at best. I'm a pretty happy camper.

So, naturally, I want to make this bike as nice as I can. Kit Upgrade Fever.

What should I look at as my first upgrades that would make a big impact, either in comfort, weight or that "snap" factor?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to u/g the stock Tecktro brakes, probably to SRAM Rival to match the rest of the kit (and a certain e-tailer has them at a good discount). Aside from that, where would my best bang for the buck be?

Small notes: I like the bar fit so don't see a need to change that for comfort and the saddle is OK, I'm still getting broken in to being a roadie so I don't feel like it needs a change just yet.

Thoughts and tips from the crowd are appreciated!


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## cooleric1234 (Sep 5, 2008)

Wheels. I hear those Shimanos are terrible.


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

Congrats on your awesome caad9! It's pretty well spec'd out from the the factory - you've got a really awesome BB30 crankset!

I would upgrade the wheels and tires first off. The shimano rs10's are not horrible, but are fairly heavy. Something from mavic's ksyrium line gives good bang for your buck; or maybe easton "EA" wheels. 

Also, I'd say the rival brakes are a good decision, very light for the money and high quality too. Just be advised however, that the rival brakes don't have a bolt that adjusts spring tension for caliper centering. You simply have to use a cone wrench to center them, which is no big deal, but is a little less convenient. Sram Force and Red brakes have this spring tension adjustment screw.

Eventually you might also consider upgrading the fork, because the stock cdale ultra forks are pretty heavy. New forks are expensive though, I'd go for wheels first.


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## shotojs78 (May 20, 2008)

it's a 2009 so no bb30


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## AvantDale (Dec 26, 2008)

I thought the 9-4 is a Rival/Force BB30 bike?

In 2009 there was no CAAD9-4...

2009, http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Products/2009/Road/

For my first mod...I'd get tires.


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

Heh, my internal calendar is/was off... It really *is* a 2010 CAAD9. 

I think I've been reading so much about the recently previewed 2011 model that I'm thinking of mine as "last year", which, since its 2010 would be 2009.

But it is a 2010, really.

(PS- Actually, my LBS is the USA's biggest Cannondale dealer and they had some model year 2009 "LBS custom" CAAD9's that did have the BB30 already. I nearly got one of those, but I liked the Rival double-tap so much I went with the OEM -4 build.


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

@Skaruda

Wheels and tire, check! 

I already pulled off the stock Vittoria slick tires and slipped on some Vredestein Fortezza TriComps (light grey/dark grey). Better grip already and they spin up faster.

I have researched wheels some, too, and it seems the Ksyrium's are hugely popular for a reason. Maybe the best wheel set around for $1000? Also looking into the SRAM S30 line (I feel like SRAM always provides a lot of quality for the dollar), as well as the Easton EA90 line. Basically any set in the $700~$1000 range is under consideration after I've "earned" an upgrade by putting on a couple Kmiles on the OEM Shimanos.

Hmm, I'll tell my SO that when I wear out your first set of tires your supposed to put on new wheels too. I read it on the internet.....


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

AceyMan said:


> I nearly got one of those, but I liked the Rival double-tap so much I went with the OEM -4 build.


Good choice! :thumbsup:



AceyMan said:


> I have researched wheels some, too, and it seems the Ksyrium's are hugely popular for a reason. Maybe the best wheel set around for $1000? Also looking into the SRAM S30 line (I feel like SRAM always provides a lot of quality for the dollar), as well as the Easton EA90 line. Basically any set in the $700~$1000 range is under consideration after I've "earned" an upgrade by putting on a couple Kmiles on the OEM Shimanos.


Yeah, sounds like you'd be looking at the Ksyrium SL's; I have Elites which I have been great. My friend has a pair of SL's and also really loves them. A very tough and durable wheel.

I don't have any experience with SRAM wheels but they sure look cool and have gotten positive reviews. I'm a big fan of SRAM products in general; definitely check out those S30's. I have a feeling that SRAM borrows technology from Zipp wheels because SRAM bought Zipp back in '07. And you've probably heard all the praise that Zipp wheels get...


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## nce (Aug 7, 2009)

If your going with new factory Mavic wheels, The Ksyrium Elite's are imo the best bang for the buck in the line up. The SL's are great but the 2009 and newer Elite's were upgraded quite a lot and are only approximately 60gms heavier than SL's. Definitely wander over to the wheels and tires section of RBR you'll find a ton of info on prebuilt and custom wheels at all price levels. Enjoy the CAAD 9, you chose well.


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## milkbaby (Aug 14, 2009)

Don't upgrade your brakes -- brakes only slow you down...


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## dougmint (Mar 18, 2007)

skaruda_23 said:


> Congrats on your awesome caad9! It's pretty well spec'd out from the the factory - you've got a really awesome BB30 crankset!
> 
> Eventually you might also consider upgrading the fork, because the stock cdale ultra forks are pretty heavy. New forks are expensive though, I'd go for wheels first.


You mention that C'dale forks are pretty heavy, and I am curious as to why you say that. I thought the 2010 forks on these bikes were all carbon, including steering tube. So why do you say it's heavy? I am picking up my 2010 CAAD9 4 in a couple weeks. Can't wait!


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

dougmint said:


> You mention that C'dale forks are pretty heavy, and I am curious as to why you say that. I thought the 2010 forks on these bikes were all carbon, including steering tube. So why do you say it's heavy? I am picking up my 2010 CAAD9 4 in a couple weeks. Can't wait!


You are right that the 2010 forks are full carbon, and I do think they are significantly lighter than the previous alloy steerer models. I have seen quoted weights on threads here for the full carbon fork being about 450g. Compare this to something like a 293g Easton EC90 SLX fork and the weight savings are considerable. (these are weights for uncut steerers.)

Congratulations on your new bike!

For reference: 

https://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=213470&highlight=fork+weight

https://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=198663&highlight=fork+weight

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/bhmmrtn/Bicycles/Triela/_G1S1191.jpg


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## ninjaslim (Apr 30, 2006)

I'd have said forks first even before wheels, but to a premium plus full carbon fork or if there's a new Caad 9 full carbon fork, then that = perfect. The difference they make to the handling & ride is amazing / sublime. I've done it on my CAAD9 4 (which was a Tri build I think and may have been 2008) and use it with some heavy Rigida flyer wheels as a training bike. But it's so lively with the replacement (second hand) forks I love ride almost as much as my System 6.


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## dougmint (Mar 18, 2007)

ninjaslim said:


> I'd have said forks first even before wheels, but to a premium plus full carbon fork or if there's a new Caad 9 full carbon fork, then that = perfect.


The 2010 CAAD9 4 comes with a Slice Premium monocoque full carbon fork (which has a carbon steerer). Are you saying you'd change that to something else?


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## ninjaslim (Apr 30, 2006)

No I didn't realise it came with a full carbon fork. That's great, I'd go wheels then, deep section carbon


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

Only go deep section carbon if you're focusing on some intense aero high speed riding. Deep dish carbon rims are generally heavier, way more expensive, and give a more punishing ride than most alloy rims. Not to mention the braking can feel weird on many full carbon wheels. They do offer awesome power transfer though because of their stiffness.

Stick with the regular alloys, or maybe if you want some aero advantage, go with those SRAM wheels you mentioned earlier.


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## squareslinky (Aug 13, 2009)

Brakes - swap out the tektro. Tires - Continental 4000s a very smooth riding tire that makes a noticeable difference.


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

Thanks for all the tips, guys.

One thing I didn't say up front is that this is my *one bike*, and it's my daily driver, as well as recreation bike. I don't even know when I'll do any racing, but I appreciate light and fast, but because it will see everyday use, I have to favor durability somewhat.

Side note- I live by the ocean and the sea breezes push the bike around laterally with the OEM alloy rims. I cannot imagine how twitchy it would be will full profile aero carbon -- yikes!

Thanks again!


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## ninjaslim (Apr 30, 2006)

AceyMan said:


> I cannot imagine how twitchy it would be will full profile aero carbon


I too live by the ocean and I love my deep sections, no they wouldn't be the wheels on my only bike, if I wasn't racing but if you're at speed then the wind doesn't make too much of a difference. You get blown with either sort of rim, if anything I feel more stable, because I'm going faster than I would otherwise be


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

Me, I would not waste 1k on those Mavic wheels. Over priced, over hyped underachieving wheels. You could get slightly less or more performance out of a wheel half that price. And for what you would spend on a lower end Mavic you could get a waaay better wheelset. If you want to spend that much I would recomend the Shimano DA 7850 sl. Great reliable wheel plus road tubless. Would be much better for your application. I have heard and seen many Mavic horror stories and good luck with warranty issues. Williams, Nuevation or BWW would get you a super wheel for under $500 easy. With the money saved you could upgrade some other stuff. I used to be all about the Mavics, but quikly got over it.
A grand on wheels, wouldn't be prudent at this juncture.


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

@ T K

I have come to the same conclusions as you. The Mavic are nice, but have their issues, and I don't have time or patience to deal with warranty issues. (And I'd have to pay for the MPP).

I have several *awesome* LBSs in my area, not just the one I bought the CAAD. I may talk to their mechanics about building up a set of custom wheels from top-line name parts that could still be easily fixed

And thos Shimano D/As do look nice. The option for tubeless is pretty sweet if I wanted to go that way.

Thanks again.

--
PS- I love your avatar. ck ur PM


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

Check out the new Ultegra wheels too. Also road tubeless. Few hundy cheaper and probobly plenty good for everyday use. 
I would definatley consider them for daily use (because of the tubeless factor) but I happen to be sponsored by a wheel company so I get a great deal on their great wheels.
In my biased oppinion the best all around wheel on the market is the Williams 30's. Light, durable, aero and customer service is top notch. Hand built too. Very popular here in the No. Cal race scene. The owner could not be a nicer guy too.


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

@ T K
Hmm, the Shimano wheelsets you cite look quite tasty. They are *definitely* on the short list.

I've heard/read good things about the Williamses, too. Is there any real disadvantage to J-spokes vs. straight pull, other than the bling factor, if you aren't a clyde? (I am 170, and dwindling, carry about 12 lb pack).

Thanks again for all the good advise.


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## T K (Feb 11, 2009)

Companies that make straight pull will give you some reasons why they are better. Probobly a lot of marketing. J spokes have more upside. Easier to replace, easier to find and cheaper to replace.
I put my front wheel in a guys rear derailleur in a race once and took out four of my spokes. Really wanted to use those wheels in a race the next weekend. E mailed Williams wheels, told him what happened and he sent me some new spokes free within
two days. LBS fixed em up for me and was back in biz. 
Don't really want to pick on Mavic, but that would have never worked with them.
I've dealt with Neuvation with a similar prob and same amazing result.


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## C Dunlop (Feb 28, 2009)

brakes and wheels.
rival brakes are decent. if you want to drop a few grams then planet-x cnc brakes are the only lightweight set of brakes that are worthwhile (unless you happen to want to spend $600+)

mavic wheels are crap. they're neither light nor aero and have unbelievably crap bearings, if they even have bearings at all. Even a set of cheap neuvations are prolly better. Ultegra 6700, rs-80 and DA 7900 are all great wheels. Otherwise get a set of handbuilts built.

Other than shimano, get wheels with j-bend spokes.


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

C Dunlop said:


> mavic wheels are crap. they're neither light nor aero and have unbelievably crap bearings, if they even have bearings at all. Even a set of cheap neuvations are prolly better.


Let's keep our vendettas against certain brands out of this. Mavics are perfectly fine for the type of riding that Acey Man has described. So are neuvations and probably every other wheel suggested in this thread for that matter.

Honestly, what is your definition of light? As a student of fluid mechanics, I can tell you aerodynamic drag induced purely by rim/spoke geometry will have no noticeable effect for this application.


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## asad137 (Jul 29, 2009)

C Dunlop said:


> brakes and wheels.
> rival brakes are decent.


The CAAD9-4 comes with Tektros.

Asad


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## C Dunlop (Feb 28, 2009)

asad137 said:


> The CAAD9-4 comes with Tektros.
> 
> Asad


yes, and the OP has suggested upgrading to a groupset brake, which I am saying is a good idea, since tektros have the stopping power of... not much.



> Let's keep our vendettas against certain brands out of this. Mavics are perfectly fine for the type of riding that Acey Man has described. So are neuvations and probably every other wheel suggested in this thread for that matter.
> 
> Honestly, what is your definition of light? As a student of fluid mechanics, I can tell you aerodynamic drag induced purely by rim/spoke geometry will have no noticeable effect for this application


It isn't a vendetta, mavic wheels are just shite. Many of them forego bearings for polymer bushing things, which fill with gunk and get shredded. For the price they are heavy and not aero at all (you can see roux artisanales wheel testing for this). Hub engagement is shite, spokes take a long time to order and are expensive and replacement rims are not even available unless you manage to get one on order when mavic is clearing out the back of their warehouse.

Shimano, Campy and DT do good factory wheels, although shimano are the best in terms of value, and only stuff above ultegra level is worth spending money on. 

1450-1600g is what I would consider a light alloy clincher. There are plenty of wheels, handbuilt and factory, with good bearings, readily replacable spokes, that ride well and are in this weight range. Mavic wheels are none of these.

If the OP is in the states, he should check out bicycle wheel world, you cannot buy the component parts of their handbuilts for what they sell complete. He should also consider DT, shimano and campy's factory wheel ranges, although the cheap shimano and campy wheels are not that nice.

As someone who rides a bike, I can tell you that 16 bladed spokes are noticably more aero than 32 round ones.


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## skaruda_23 (May 8, 2009)

No wheel can get away with foregoing a bearing. Mavic uses sealed cartridge bearings. They're just plain and simple steel ball bearings. The elites and SL's discussed here use these types of bearings, which are easily replaced. I don't know what polymer bushing things you are talking about. Mine have never been a problem or "shredded". The whole point of this design is that gunk can't get in to foul them.

Are you talking about the bushing in mavic freehubs? Otherwise there is no "bushing" that you speak of!

Hub engagement and ride quality are subjective matters. Tire choice and pressure are way more influential. Yes, Mavic is notorious for customer service issues, we know that, but that wasn't my point.

Actually, the two wheels that we discussed here (elites and SL's) do come within that weight range... my elites weigh in at about 1560 without skewers and sl's weigh about 1500 without skewers... Mavic spokes are not difficult to replace either, and are readily available on the internet.

As well, these two wheelsets use bladed spokes (not round) but 18 in front and 20 rear. Maybe not as aero as some, but for the mostly commuter/recreational style riding of the OP, the poor aerodynamics of the human body are coming into play much more than that of the wheels.

I have broken two j-bend spokes on my shimanos. Have never needed to replace any spokes on my mavics. They barely even get out of true.

You were probably noticing the the added mass of double the number of spokes, not the aero effect. My point is, for the OP and the wheels he's looking at, this is not an issue!

What, in your opinion, makes campy, DT, and shimano wheels more aero than comparable mavics?

Mavic elites or SL's may not be the best wheels. Fine. But they are not crap. Can we agree to disagree on this?


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## asad137 (Jul 29, 2009)

C Dunlop said:


> yes, and the OP has suggested upgrading to a groupset brake, which I am saying is a good idea, since tektros have the stopping power of... not much.


Upgrading pads first, as other people have suggested, seems like a prudent and cheaper first step.

Asad


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## AceyMan (May 6, 2010)

Tires already upgraded, as noted (Vredestein Fortezza TriComps).
Brake pads, on the way, (Kool Stop refill pads). 
No change yet to the calipers themselves (for now...).
Color matching Cinelli two tone (grey/black) splash bar tape on the way, as well as a seat/post upgrade (Thomson Elite and Selle Italia SLR).
Piggy banking for wheel upgrade (TBD) when I've "earned it".
Thanks again for all the good input, ladies and gentlemen.


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## yater (Nov 30, 2006)

C Dunlop said:


> mavic wheels are crap. they're neither light nor aero and have unbelievably crap bearings, if they even have bearings at all.


My equipes have 30k miles on them and have never been trued or serviced. Talk about bomb-proof....


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

Wheels and brake pads. The Tektro calipers are ok.


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