# My 2016 Supersix EVO Hi-Mod



## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

Just finished getting it all sorted out and went for my first rides this weekend. Loving it! I think my position is good so I'll be cutting the fork this week. Swapped out bars, stem, seat and cranks. It's a 58cm. Really liking the color.

I'll work on better pics once I cut the fork.

Andy


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## veloci1 (Nov 29, 2005)

good job on that build. my favorite color on an EVO.

how do you like the November wheels?


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

I agree, I love this color too, looks soooo much better in real life compared to when I saw the catalog pictures. Enjoy the ride!


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## fritzbox (Mar 11, 2008)

Nice 👍


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## Diopena1 (Jul 21, 2011)

Beautiful bike!

I have a set of Rail 52's also, and LOVE them!.... enjoy it!


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## ainsy (Aug 24, 2008)

Awesome color and bike Andy!

Be interested to hear your thoughts on keeping the bike clean with the matt finish, especially around the drivetrain area.

I ended up going the same bike but in black for the ease of cleaning. Would have liked to go this option but am WAY too lazy to keep a light coloured bike clean!


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

ainsy said:


> Awesome color and bike Andy!
> 
> Be interested to hear your thoughts on keeping the bike clean with the matt finish, especially around the drivetrain area.
> 
> ...


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## spdntrxi (Jul 25, 2013)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FQ...nt+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41GAHf9nf7L&ref=plSrch

Is what I use.. My bike is half matte white and half matte black.. Custom paint from Parlee.. The matte white half is a PITA to clean.. Have to use microfiber towels.. Paper towels are no good


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## jgilesband (Feb 4, 2016)

Andy STi said:


> ainsy said:
> 
> 
> > Awesome color and bike Andy!
> ...


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

jgilesband said:


> Andy STi said:
> 
> 
> > Whoa! I have never seen such a thing. Where do you live?
> ...


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## SkiLikeMe (Oct 3, 2010)

spdntrxi said:


> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FQ...nt+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41GAHf9nf7L&ref=plSrch
> 
> Is what I use.. My bike is half matte white and half matte black.. Custom paint from Parlee.. The matte white half is a PITA to clean.. Have to use microfiber towels.. Paper towels are no good



Any experience with this directly on CF? Think it would be safe to use?


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## vette (Feb 1, 2009)

just looked & seen that I can get the Evo Hi-Mod Ultegra for the same price as the Caad 12 Disc which I want,i have a Caad 10 now ,tough decision I need help deciding


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## jgilesband (Feb 4, 2016)

Andy STi said:


> jgilesband said:
> 
> 
> > Am I missing the sarcasm - it's just from a gritty and wet road. I live in Bend, OR and they use cinder on the roads during the winter. Leaves a mess until all the roads are swept.
> ...


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

jgilesband said:


> No sarcasm, sincere curiosity. We don't have that down in Dallas. Even in the nastiest conditions here your bike would never look like that.


Haha, you're lucky! Normally not too bad as most of it just sprays off. It's a little more work with this finish.


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

spdntrxi said:


> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FQ...nt+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41GAHf9nf7L&ref=plSrch
> 
> Is what I use.. My bike is half matte white and half matte black.. Custom paint from Parlee.. The matte white half is a PITA to clean.. Have to use microfiber towels.. Paper towels are no good


Ordered and it'll be here today. Thanks for the tip!


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## Roland44 (Mar 21, 2013)

Andy STi said:


> I really like this color but I didn't realize it would be so hard to clean. Ugh.


It definitely worth the extra effort, looks great


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## Saeco.nl (Jun 11, 2008)

Got the "Darth Vader" black one...


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

The black looks great!

I've cut the fork and have been putting some time on the bike. Love it!


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## Saeco.nl (Jun 11, 2008)

Andy STi said:


> The black looks great!
> 
> I've cut the fork and have been putting some time on the bike. Love it!


I see you have done some serious cleaning :thumbsup: 

Yes, it's a great bike, I do notice a difference compared to my 2011 model, it's lighter, more agile and comfortable. What's the difference in height between your saddle and stem, mine is 10cm.


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## Zeruski (Apr 15, 2016)

*Meticulous Matte Detailer Spray*



Andy STi said:


> The black looks great!
> 
> Andy, do you cleann it with Chemical Guys spray?
> Is that a good solution? Don't affect the carbon?
> ...


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## gaff (Jun 9, 2014)

lovely bike. i have my eye on one myself.

could you give some info on the quality / adjustment of the seat / saddle clamp mechanism on the hi mod SAVE seatpost.

is angle/tilt adjusted independently of fore and aft? e.g.. you can adjust angle whilst rails are still clamped?

from the looks it is top/bottom clamping, so would be cool with oval rails.

thanks


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

Zeruski said:


> Andy STi said:
> 
> 
> > The black looks great!
> ...


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## Andy STi (Sep 13, 2009)

It does well on gravel too. Couple cool race pics


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## noyade233 (Aug 17, 2012)

Anyone else have the occasional click (pebble hitting the frame type click) coming from their 2016 Hi-Mod headset? It seems to happen occasionally when I hit rough road and did occur when I push down on the bars just right. 

I have taken apart the headset, inspected all the bearings, cleaned, re-greased everything and torqued down on the compression top cap thinking the headset and fork are loose, but as hard as I torque it, I cant even get close to locking up the bearings. I have enough spacers and the compression doesn't seem to be restricted by anything that I can see. 

Torqueing hard on the top cap did alleviate most of the occasional clicks, but on real rough roads, I think I still hear it once in a blue moon. 

I find it strange that even with the amount of torque on the top cap, I cant make a difference in the bearing preload. On my Caad10, locking up the bearings and steering didn't take much torque on the cap.

Might as well include a pic of the bike also


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## black20 (Sep 10, 2012)

Might be irrelevent. My 2014 supersix had the same issue from day one. Brought it back a few times. They tightened and regreased the headset. It`d be gone for maybe a week and the noise would be back. Then I messed around with it. Made sure there was enough spacer to sufficiently preload the headset. Tightened it some more. And yes I`m aware that integrated headsets with a tapered seat requires a fair bit of preload. Still no dice. Finally broke down and installed a crane creek and it has been butter ever since. My conclusion is that the factory headset is junk or I had a dud.


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## noyade233 (Aug 17, 2012)

Thanks. When I was tinkering with the headset a month ago, really tightening it down did alleviate the noticeable clicking for a few rides. I thought I heard it one or twice on my last ride but it might have just been my brain playing tricks on me. I'll have to really pay attention this weekend to see if I hear it. 

Never really had to tighten down a headset that tight, so it had me a little worried. Is not being able to lockup the bearings with preload normal on the supersix? No matter how tight I have it, I don't notice any restriction on the steering.


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## black20 (Sep 10, 2012)

I'm able to bind up the headset if I really crank it down. It requires far more preload, way past of the point of just "eliminating play" on a headset with a tapered seat. Don't be afraid to give it some beans. You'll know if the headset is too tight as soon as you ride it.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

I've had this happen to a few of these frames. The trick is to get a few micro shim spacers and place them on top of the bearing. The molded in cups on some of these frames are too deep or uneven and that causes the frame to bottom out before there is sufficient preload.


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## noyade233 (Aug 17, 2012)

Thanks all. After riding it this weekend, I'm positive I still hear it. I did try one micro shim on the top bearing months ago, but it didn't help. I'll try adding a few more shims to see if it solves the noise.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

I've used up to three on other builds. If you can't get the steering to bind when tightening the preload bolt, you are bottoming out.


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## Dan Gerous (Mar 28, 2005)

If there's a small gap between the headtube and the headset's bearing cover, you don't need shims. If there is none whatsover and the cover touches the frame, add shims.

You already mentionned it but, making sure the steerer ends 1-3 mm lower than the top edge of the stem (or spacers if some are used over the stem) is critical to be able to adjust preload. Also note that with the latest superlight headset expension assembly, the top cap has a little recess so it can bottom out against the steerer a fraction of a mm quicker than the old expension assembly that had a flat bottom surface of the top cap...

Also, make sure the expension plug is tight enough, if it's not, you could actually make it slide up as you tighten the preload. Having a lot less surface to grip inside the steerer, the latest expension plug is a bit more sensible to this than the old model.

I like to use a little bit of grease on the threads of the bolt that tightens the expender but also on the threads between the expender and the top cap. That's more to prevent any seizing in there in the longer term so I doubt that's your case. I've seen it happening from sweat dropping into the center (heavy sweating rider after a while on a trainer inside) and creating just enough corrosion that turning the top cap was actually making the plug turn too, they were stuck together. Just make sure grease doesn't get on the parts that contact the steerer.

I also like to make sure the inside of the steerer is clean and dry before installing the plug to make sure it doesn't slide. It would be surprising to get grease there but if carbon dust from cutting the steerer stays along the surface, the plug might also slide up. I quick wipe with a clean rag with a bit of rubbing alcohol to make sure it's clean and dry is easy enough.

And while I'm at it, some bikes come with lighter headset spacers that are very thin but have three 'bumps' inside to stay centered around the steerer. If you use those directly under the latest top cap that's very thin and light, tightening the cap can actually warp the top cap around the spacer's three 'bumps' so as you tighten, the top cap just sinks in a bit, I have seen this happen too once so I always recommend using a spacer that's thicker directly under the cap, it prevents this issue.

With all that said, these headsets do seem to need to be torqued surprisingly hard...


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## noyade233 (Aug 17, 2012)

Took apart the headset last night again to add some more shims but as DG said, I can already see a gap between the bearing cover and frame even without the shims. The top of the bearing actually peeks past the frame and is visible in the gap so I don't think its bottoming out on the top (put more shims on anyway).

My steerer is cut 2-3mm below the top of the stem and I have verified that its not coming in contact with the top cap since I can see the gap in the split of the stem. Also no spacer above the stem but that was one test I did to try and solve the clicking but no luck.

I tried to tighten the top cap extra tight this time but had the expansion plug "pop" on me when I went too hard. I'm sure I had the expansion plug tight since it didn't slide while tightening the top cap but popped when too much force was put on it? Even after all that, couldn't get any substantial preload from the bearings. The headset is tight and the fork has no play in it while rocking the fork with the front brakes engaged but its the same preload resistance as always.

I have yet to test ride it since last night, but I'm not real hopeful, since I didn't really do much of anything new. Had a friend suggest putting a spacer between the bottom cup and bottom bearing just in case the fork was bottoming out on the bottom cup, but visually it seems like the fork and frame have clearance. I guess that will be the next thing to try.

Would like to apologies to the OP for hijacking his thread, but the clicking has maxed out my OCD and I'm all out of ideas.


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## goodboyr (Apr 19, 2006)

Interesting. But as I said, you must be bottoming out somewhere or you would be able to preload the bearing without pulling out the expander.


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## noyade233 (Aug 17, 2012)

The only place I can see it bottoming out at this point is at the crown of the fork and the bottom cup of the frame. 

I put 3 spacers on top of the top bearing last night and still couldn't feel any substantial preload. The gap between the top dust cap and frame is big enough to visually confirm it not pushing against the frame. I guess I'll try a spacer between the bottom cup and bottom bearing next to give a little extra clearance and see what happens. Thanks.


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## Saeco.nl (Jun 11, 2008)

my best bike ever.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

Here's my '14 EVO with the same wheels as the OP's:


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