# Surly LHT Commuter/Tourer



## jbkalla (Jun 29, 2006)

So I've gained too much weight over the past year or so, and would like to start commuting here in Aurora, Colorado. I would be commuting in snow, rain, etc... with a substantial climb on the way home. The commute is only 11-14mi, but I'm completely out of shape at this point!

In any case, could somebody give me recommendations about the Surly Long Haul Trucker? I'm not sure what a complete bike costs, but I'm not worried about the weight of the bike or the speed. I'm 260lbs, 6'0". I believe my legs are a little short because my road bike is a 2006 Fuji Team 54cm, which I'm scared to ride because of my weight! I last rode it at 250lbs, and it held up well, but I have a feeling that year-round commuting would be hard on it, and I'd like to have the extra cargo space that the Surly has.

So, I would really appreciate any comments/info people with this bike would have! Thanks!


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## marc180 (Feb 2, 2006)

*Why LHT?*

Why not a cross check? Are you set on the LHT?


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## jbkalla (Jun 29, 2006)

marc180 said:


> Why not a cross check? Are you set on the LHT?


Not necessarily. What is a cross check?


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## marc180 (Feb 2, 2006)

*surly cross check*

do a search. tons of good info on the forums here. a favorite among commuters. it's a do it all type of bike...commute, tour, century, single speed, fixed, cyclocross, etc.


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## jbkalla (Jun 29, 2006)

Ah! A Surly Cross Check.

Well, it's not quite the type of bike I'm looking for. The LHT seems to fit that in the Surly line. I'm not interested in racing this bike, and the LHT seems to be built tougher.


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## marc180 (Feb 2, 2006)

sounds like you know what you want. go get you one.

ps. the CC is thought of as one of the "toughest" bike on the market. if i were you, i'd at least try riding both of them to see what you like more.


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## rcnute (Dec 21, 2004)

I cast my vote for the LHT. It's less versatile than the CC if you want to use it for cross or a "go fast" bike, but it's great for commuting, long rides and putting on all the bags and racks your heart desires. I also like the 26" wheels on the smaller sizes. Check out the Surly LHT and CC Owners' Group (Google it) and you'll find tons of helpful information on each model.


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## Scot_Gore (Jan 25, 2002)

jbkalla said:


> So I've gained too much weight over the past year or so, and would like to start commuting here in Aurora, Colorado. I would be commuting in snow, rain, etc... with a substantial climb on the way home. The commute is only 11-14mi, but I'm completely out of shape at this point!
> 
> In any case, could somebody give me recommendations about the Surly Long Haul Trucker? I'm not sure what a complete bike costs, but I'm not worried about the weight of the bike or the speed. I'm 260lbs, 6'0". I believe my legs are a little short because my road bike is a 2006 Fuji Team 54cm, which I'm scared to ride because of my weight! I last rode it at 250lbs, and it held up well, but I have a feeling that year-round commuting would be hard on it, and I'd like to have the extra cargo space that the Surly has.
> 
> So, I would really appreciate any comments/info people with this bike would have! Thanks!


I commute on a LHT complete. I am of roughly the same stature as you. I'm on a 56 as I am on most models/brands I've ever gotten serious enough about to figure it out. I have a 15 mile commute and climb the back of a local ski area on the way home (it's still Minnesota, so that just means short steep hill, don't apply a Colorado paradigm to that ski hill). It's a fine bike for the purpose, but I will likely take it loaded touring some day, so it was a better choice for me than a cross check for that reason. 

Scot


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## single1x1 (Mar 26, 2005)

*cc not a total racing bike*



jbkalla said:


> Ah! A Surly Cross Check.
> 
> Well, it's not quite the type of bike I'm looking for. The LHT seems to fit that in the Surly line. I'm not interested in racing this bike, and the LHT seems to be built tougher.


 The cross check is definitly not a real racingbike, more like a raceable good bike. I have one and I have ridden with bags and fenders but also raced it all as a SS or fixed gear, soon to become a geared bike, as long as super all out loaded touring isn't what you will do, the cross check would be good also. The frame and fork weight should be similar, longer rearend and fork rack mounts up the legs, slight geo changes to LHT. I did have to scoot the panniers back on the rack to avoid hitting my feet on them with the cross check though, 6ft,size 12 feet, 56cm frame with 175cranks. If you only plan on running gears, don't plan on racing then the LHT might work a little better, but the cross check rides nice and is also quite versitile also


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## roadfix (Jun 20, 2006)

I built a LHT (52cm/26") a couple of years ago. The thing is built like a tank and rides well.


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## Pigtire (May 26, 2004)

I also have a LHT. I bought the frameset and cobbled it together with mixed parts from the bin. It is a very nice ride. Very stable when loaded with a lot stuff for work or grocery runs. I use a rack and panniers, btw. It also doubles as my part time off road machine.


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

Just get one. I think the damn things are the best deal on the market. $900 for a complete bike; $420 for the frame. I've tried and tried on paper, and I cannot build one for as cheap as they can. The only places they cheap out are the usual ones...the seatpost, the headset, saddle, and maybe the rims. Still everything is very serviceable and sturdy. Unbelievable what you get for 9 clams...I _want_ one!


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## Scot_Gore (Jan 25, 2002)

Doggity said:


> Just get one. I think the damn things are the best deal on the market. $900 for a complete bike; $420 for the frame. I've tried and tried on paper, and I cannot build one for as cheap as they can. The only places they cheap out are the usual ones...the seatpost, the headset, saddle, and maybe the rims. Still everything is very serviceable and sturdy. Unbelievable what you get for 9 clams...I _want_ one!


Similiar experience. I was in the process of specing up an LHT from the frameset. I was prepared to spend about $1500.00. While shopping I came across Surly's proposed, but not yet priced "Complete" on their site. I priced out the spec as if I was going to build it that way and it came in right around my $1500.00 price tag. Being in Minneapolis I made a few phone calls to friends to see what the ultimate price might be, they thought it would be somewhere in the $1200 range. I decided to cool my jets and wait for it. It was winter of last year and I wouldn't likely need it until April. I had my LBS keep in close contact with QBP, when the first 350 landed at QBP I ordered and paid that day. MSRP on that first shipment...$886.00, a no brainer. They were gone by the next Monday and had a price increase for the next set. At $920.00 it's still a screaming deal, IMHO. 

I attended an Adventure Cycling member meeting this last summer. I ended up riding home with Steve Flagg, the owner of QBP, I told how pleased I was with his bike. He asked if that was from the first shipment and I told him it was. He laughed and said, "we SO underpriced those bikes, but who knew  "

Enjoy the bike

Scot


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## jbkalla (Jun 29, 2006)

Sweet! Then it's done! I'll post pics after I get it!


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## Doggity (Mar 10, 2006)

Great! I shall be following your comments as to how it rides with great interest. I'd love to pull the trigger on one right now, but it is not politically expedient to do so now, if you get my drift. She Who Must Be Obeyed would be mightily peeved... I'm gonna have to sell at least one bike, if not two, to do that.


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## danong (Oct 18, 2007)

I recently purchased a 54cm LHT and added Planet Bike Cascadia ATB fenders, Tubus racks, Carradice Barley saddle bag, and a Brooks B17 saddle. A LHT is built like a tank. 










More photos on flickr.com:
https://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157603591234983/show/?no_back=1


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## California L33 (Jan 20, 2006)

I'm not trying to talk you out of buying a new bike. We all like to buy bikes, but are you sure you need one? Most bikes are built pretty solid- an average guy bombing down a hill and hitting bumps is probably going to put more stress on the components than you taking it easy on the Fuji- and if it's the standard Team that's no ultra-lightweight to begin with. You'd probably need to change wheels to a 28 or 32 spoke design- I think Neuvation has a max. suggested weight of 240 lbs. for its M28s, and while you're at it get some 25s or 28s if they'll fit- a bit more cushion, and speaking of that maybe a 'comfort' saddle, and most importantly, the lowest rear cassette you can put on it for that hill. Take it easier in rain and snow- going down at your size would be no fun. Even the little guys don't bounce so well sometimes. And as a way of encouragement, I read that Chris Boardman got up to around your weight after he retired (hazards of being a top pro cyclist- you're used to eating 4000 plus calories a day and when you stop burning 2500 a day in workouts the weight can creep up on you really fast) but lost most of it by getting back on his bike. You might also want to check out Mountain Bike Review. They've got a 'Clydesdale' section with advice for the bigger rider that will translate to road riding as well.


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## BenR (Dec 14, 2001)

*another LHT owner here*

I have the 56 with 700 c wheels and front and rear racks. It's great for loaded touring or hauling a cartload of groceries home, but mediocre at everything else. It hauled 70 lbs on my first a three day tour with it and worked out beautifully. Could have packed much lighter but I'm young & dumb and really wanted a case of beer at our campsite which was 12 miles up an old logging road. I felt right at home on it, which involved scampering up some pretty steep grades and switchbacks on said logging road, hitting loose pockets of dirt & small branches on the way back down, and descending multiple twisting grades (on asphalt) at 40+mph. Also, when you're tired from trying to go too far with a heavy load and getting blasted by sidewinds, the LHT still tracks a perfectly straight line. While loaded, It's smooth on the harshest chipseal, absolutely no twisting or shimmy at any speed, well balanced with full size front panniers, and plows through pretty much anything. It's the best non-custom touring bike out there IMO.

But, while it works OK for general commuting/road use, the LHT is not first choice for my short, hilly, and technical commute. I use an old roadbike instead, but the cross check would also be much better for this purpose and is more versatile than the LHT. The LHT has a beefier fork and top tube (possibly chainstays too but I don't remember). An empty LHT with 175 pound rider and 25mm tires at 100 psi rides on the harsh end for a steel frame. My friend's crosscheck is smoother with almost no perceived stiffness loss while empty. The LHT's low bb which was wonderful for touring stability now results in pedal banging on the tamest singletrack and requires coasting through most corners. The long chainstays which provided great stability and pannier clearance now result in slippage on gravel-coated or snowy hills. I am biased by a preference for crit-like road bikes, but also feel that the sluggish LHT geometry is overkill for anything except loaded touring. I'm no weight weenie, but at 29 pounds without racks, it's a pig. The difference is insignificant while touring, but certainly becomes noticeable for general riding, especially with that unloaded rear wheel slipping up hills. The CC is a much better jack of all trades. 

Other things to consider: 1) LHT sizes below 56cm only use 26" wheels. Could be good or bad depending on what you want. 2)The CC fork does not offer front rack mounts although you could probably jury rig something using the fender eyeletts. Both offer plenty of clearance for fenders with wide tires. Many people have done occasional tours on their CC and been satisfied with how it worked out, especially those who pack light or prefer to tow a trailer. Others commute daily on an LHT and love it. To each their own.

Bottom Line: if you really want to get into loaded touring or need significant cargo carrying capacity (ie don't have a car), the LHT is great, but otherwise I'd go for the CC.

http://thelazyrandonneur.blogspot.com/2007/10/surly-lht-or-cc-selection-advice_31.html


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## jbkalla (Jun 29, 2006)

California, I'm wanting a new bike because, frankly, I'd like to keep the Fuji in good shape for organized rides and races. Also, it doesn't have the clearance for panniers and larger tires. I really like my Fuji, but it's not setup for winter riding in Colorado, especially when commuting. I've done it a few times (last year) and I need to carry a large pack, which I don't like to do.

BenR: Great information! I'll be riding the bike with at least one pannier on the back wheel, fully loaded, so I'm not too concerned about slippage. Also, my entire commute is on pavement, though there will probably be snow involved for a few days per year. The low BB concerns me a little, but I usually coast through corners anyway. Probably on really nice days, I'll take the Fuji to work. Especially after I lose 60lbs or so. Also, I expect the bike will ride a little better with a 260lb rider and full pannier. I'm guessing it will certainly ride better than my last bike, a full aluminum Coppi. I'll probably fit a 54cm or smaller frame, even though I'm 6'0" tall, as my upper body seems to be disproportionately longer than my legs. My Fuji is a 54cm and it fits me really well. I looked at the Cross Check, but I would eventually like to get into long tours, and I don't mind the extra weight of the LHT, especially since I could lose 80lbs myself!

Any suggestions on kickstands (does it come with one?) and other options? After looking through past postings, I noticed someone mentioned Arkel products, which seem perfect for my budget. I'm thinking of the "Commuter" pannier and possibly the "Red Rock" rack, but I'm open to suggestions of other equipment. Also, what about wheels/tires? Will I want to keep what's on the bike originally? And do I need fenders?

Sorry for all the questions, but I've never really ridden in the winter before and have never used panniers or racks or tires wider than 700x23!


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## KeeponTrekkin (Aug 29, 2002)

*Just Got a LHT*

Haven't ridden enough miles to say much about it. It is very stable. I intend to use if for commuting (carry panniers) and long rides (brevets) so I have fitted fenders and lights.

The ride seems very comfortable (28 mm tires add a lot in this department). The Cross Check allows fenders and wide tires too and is a very versitile design.

I went with the LHT vs the CC because of the longer chainstays. I just got tired of my heels hitting my panniers on my other commuter with shorter chainstays. I also like the frame extras (pump peg, chain hanger, spoke holder, 3rd bottle bosses.)

Can't understand the comment about the 29# build. The LHT frame is only a little heavier than the CC.

I don't think any frame will fail with a 250# rider. However, I suggest you look into well built, 36 spoke (3 cross) wheels (don't choose the lightest rims, get rims intended for commuting or touring, not racing, and avoid deep vee rims, they'll make your ride harsher.)


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## BenR (Dec 14, 2001)

KeeponTrekkin said:


> Can't understand the comment about the 29# build. The LHT frame is only a little heavier than the CC.


Very true, but for commuting (and before knowing this guy's weight - didn't read the OP very carefully), I was making the argument that the CC is already heavy enough if he didn't have other reasons for choosing the LHT. It's a tiny part of the overall scheme of things, but just wanted to mention it. 

I was also making the confounding and possibly inaccurate assumption that most people would build up their CC much lighter than my LHT with loaded touring wheels and ancient frankenstein parts. Part of that is based off experience with my friend's CC which he built for cross racing, gravel roads, and commuting with a light backpack.


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## BenR (Dec 14, 2001)

jbkalla said:


> Any suggestions on kickstands (does it come with one?) and other options? After looking through past postings, I noticed someone mentioned Arkel products, which seem perfect for my budget. I'm thinking of the "Commuter" pannier and possibly the "Red Rock" rack, but I'm open to suggestions of other equipment. Also, what about wheels/tires? Will I want to keep what's on the bike originally? And do I need fenders?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, but I've never really ridden in the winter before and have never used panniers or racks or tires wider than 700x23!


jbkalla,

I bought a frameset and used my own parts, so I'm not sure about what the built bike is really like. Looking at Surly's website, it appears to be a good build for the money, with gearing and wheels that are actually intended for loads - pretty rare find. If you don't already have parts laying around it's probably going to be hard to build up your own bike for less money. I definitely agree with Trekkin on solid wheels. I very quickly trashed my 14 gauge 32 spoke open pro rim on it's first loaded tour, even though it had remained perfectly true through several previous years of harsh, but unloaded use. Again, the as is built bike is ready to go for it's first tour (some people may have their own preferences/upgrades, but I don't think anyone will argue that this bike is grossly insufficient in any aspect). Those 35 mm tires run at low pressure will also be good for commuting through slush and gravel. If you're truly riding on ice all the time you'll want to purchase some studded Nokians though.

For frame size, you're seriously thinking about a 54? That seems backwards to me if you said you had a proportionately long torso. Everyone is different, but it really seems like you'd want a 56. I'm a young 5'11" roadie who set up his 56 cm LHT fairly aggressively for a touring bike with 120cm stem and medium depth bars, and it feels really good. Not quite as much stretch or drop as my race bike but otherwise pretty similar. I can ride it hard in the drops for hours or just sit up on the tops and meander. I tried the typical short, upright touring position and hated it. My back felt scrunched, was perched up in the wind, couldn't turn the cranks as easily, and the view sure wasn't any better. I gave it a chance, but kept going lower and longer until it felt good again. My saddle is "fairly far back" too. So, I think it would not be too big for you. You're an inch taller, with long torso, and maybe not as flexible, but could use a 100 cm stem and not be stretched out at all. Definitely ride one first if you can. If you like how you're Fuji fits and think it's great for riding all day, then I'd pick whichever LHT top tube length that matches most closely.

For kickstands, I've never used or felt a great need for one. I supposed it could come in handy but am not sure how well it would work with a loaded bike. Again, I'm no weight weenie, but a solid kickstand weighs a fair amount. Every little bit will add up. Walls and trees work great for holding up bike. Are you worried about frame scraping against bike racks at work? Wrap "your" parking spot on the rack with old handle tape or something like that.

Panniers: You're going to read all kinds of opinions. Some people say the cheap Nashbar ones work fine. Others say to not skimp. I'm definitely in the latter camp. I have standard Ortliebs for the rear and Jandds for the front. It's a great combo. Got a deal on the Jandds, stitching is top notch and I like having compartments. There's almost too many belts and buckles to forget about and get caught in spokes though. That also makes them versatile and easy to strap down tight to avoid swaying and other motion. Paid top dollar for the Ortliebs several years ago and don't regret it. Bombproof and truly waterproof. Also wicked easy to pull off the rack and walk into buildings with. Nice and spacious. Can you tell I like them? But, I don't like the single big compartment - you'll need to adopt a colored stuff sack system and/or complement them with compartmented panniers, or just be one of those rare people who doesn't care where things are in your bags. They also sway a little more than the Jandds but I have a fairly small rear rack that doesn't support the rear-most part of the panniers. Heard good things about Arkels too, but otherwise no experience with them.

Racks are another thing not worth skimping on. I have an aluminum Old Man Mountain White Rock that was scavenged from the old road bike. It's kind of small for loaded touring but has hauled grocery loads far beyond it's claimed load many times and has yet to break. A red rock would certainly offer more room for tents and big panniers. It's overkill for strictly commuting, but doing it again, I'd buy a rack that can handle your biggest task well, especially for an LHT. Old Man Mountain also seems a little overpriced. I'd probably opt for a steel Tubus if doing it again. http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Cargo/CARGO PAGE.htm The Surly Nice is also nice but maybe overkill unless you're constantly hauling loads of firewood around! 

My front rack is a Jandd. I wanted the flexibility of high-low mounting options for big panniers, instead of being stuck with the currently-popular lowrider and small pannier combo. There isn't much else out there. It was priced well and very solid, more so than my rear White Rock. I also like having the front top shelf. The rack is wide though - had to use longer bolts and washers between the rack and sides of the fork. Also limits how far you can turn the handlebars (not even close to being a problem while riding - but have to be careful while stuffing it in a car, etc.). Wasn't going to pay custom prices for a steel rack. Surly supposedly makes one that probably fits perfectly but it wasn't available at the time. If doing lowriders, I'd go with a Tubus. They seem like great racks for the money and you really don't want front rack failures to occur.

Yeah, you're right about the heavier weight smoothing the ride out. I wasn't trying to claim that the LHT is harsh. It still rides like a steel frame, definitely smoother than my Klein (which I absolutely love) or your Coppi. Some people really value plush frames and I was just trying to say it's not as smooth as the cross check or some of the more expensive tubing out there. Obviously that's not the purpose of the LHT. 

Fenders are worth their weight in gold. For winter riding you'll stay infinitely warmer and drier. Installing them on a LHT should be fairly easy with all that clearance. I have cheapo plastic Planet Bikes and like them just fine. I extended the rear part of the front with a yogurt carton mudflap to keep more spray off my feet.

Think that covers it. Spent too much time writing this novel so gotta be productive for a few days. Best of luck.


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