# A Falcon Reborn!



## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

As some of you may know, I have a late '80's Falcon Reynolds 531P frame that I acquired in 1989. It's been through many permutations over the years - DuraAce 7400, then some Sachs New Success parts, Campy Athena, then Centaur, now Record 8 speed. A number of bikes have come and gone in that period, but this one really is my favorite. The combination of fit, geometry, handling, and what I'd have to call "livelyness" are just spot on.

Through some great posters on the Falcon Geneology thread, I've pretty much confirmed its provenance. It was a 1987 Victory (for the Campy group it came with) that I'm guessing was stripped for parts at Ernie's Bike Shop in Brentwood, CA, probably sometime in 1988. It was hanging on the wall with no price. I had just "broken" my Bob Jackson 753 and I needed another frame pronto. They took it down, I borrowed a tape measure, and asked "How much?" The owner said "$200 and it's yours."

Originally, it was an anthracite gray but the British paint left a lot to be desired, especially living and riding near the Pacific coast. In the early '90's, I had it repainted by Medici in a British racing green Imron. And there it stood all these years.

I never thought I'd be able to "restore" it, as the frame decals and headbadge just seemed unobtainable. And as it was a "rider", a couple of years ago I replaced the steel fork with a carbon threadless setup. Like an idiot, I sold the Reynolds fork and the Cinelli bar and stem. The rake was the same so the handling didn't change. And I did take well over a pound off the front end.

So along comes Greg Softly at Cyclomondo in the Land of Oz and his eBay store. He recently offered a decal set that is pretty much what was original and the 15 year old repaint was getting pretty tired. I ordered the decal set along with Reynolds 531P tubing decals and carted the frame off to Olympic Powdercoating in Santa Ana. I decided to go back to the original color - Anthracite. For now, it's going back together with the carbon fork, but I'm keeping my eye out for a good Reynolds steel one. As the color is a stock one for Olympic, they guaranteed they could match it down the road.

Monday, I faced and chased the frame at the shop.

Here's what it's been for a few years and what's about to go together.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

sweet...that is going to look fanstastic...


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Dave Hickey said:


> sweet...that is going to look fanstastic...


Thanks, Dave.

Now if I could just afford that white Regal. That would be way cool.....


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

I have the exact same bike. I bought mine new in 1984. I built it up with a Suntour Superbe Pro group. Still have the same group on it today. I sent mine to Ted Wojick about 6 years ago for a respray and to have the top tube cable guides moved to the underside. Mines a 58 cm c-t with a 56 top tube. Still the best fitting bike I've ever owned. I've had approximately 10 road bikes the past 30 years but the Falcon is the one I cling to.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

spastook said:


> I have the exact same bike. I bought mine new in 1984. I built it up with a Suntour Superbe Pro group. Still have the same group on it today. I sent mine to Ted Wojick about 6 years ago for a respray and to have the top tube cable guides moved to the underside. Mines a 58 cm c-t with a 56 top tube. Still the best fitting bike I've ever owned. I've had approximately 10 road bikes the past 30 years but the Falcon is the one I cling to.


Is yours a San Remo? That was the top of the line at the time and Reynolds 531C. With the Ernie Clements decal on the left chainstay.

From everything I can tell (including info from Falcon in England) mine was a one year only 531P, Campy 1010B dropouts, but came as a complete bike with Campy Victory components. No Ernie decal. It measures 58 cm c-t but a 56.5 cm top tube. I really love this bike.


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

Richard said:


> Is yours a San Remo? That was the top of the line at the time and Reynolds 531C. With the Ernie Clements decal on the left chainstay.
> 
> From everything I can tell (including info from Falcon in England) mine was a one year only 531P, Campy 1010B dropouts, but came as a complete bike with Campy Victory components. No Ernie decal. It measures 58 cm c-t but a 56.5 cm top tube. I really love this bike.


I have the Falcon catalog from 1984 and mine was available as a complete bike with Campy Victory components. Mine has the exact same decals yours has and is a 531P tubeset and Campy 1010B dropouts. It's possible that I'm off by a year as to when I bought it, I keep a training diary I can look at it and see exactly when I purchased it. The top tube might be 56.5 as well. I might scan the catalog and post some pics but I always get " exceeds file limits" and I have no idea how to reduce so I can post.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

spastook said:


> I have the Falcon catalog from 1984 and mine was available as a complete bike with Campy Victory components. Mine has the exact same decals yours has and is a 531P tubeset and Campy 1010B dropouts. It's possible that I'm off by a year as to when I bought it, I keep a training diary I can look at it and see exactly when I purchased it. The top tube might be 56.5 as well. I might scan the catalog and post some pics but I always get " exceeds file limits" and I have no idea how to reduce so I can post.


That's it. Go to the "Falcon Genealogy" thread here (yes - misspelled). On the last page a poster linked to pictures in the 1987 Catalog. There was my bike, and sounds like yours also.

Reynolds 531P, Campy 1010B dropouts, no Ernie Clements decal on rhe chainstay. The year of mine is a mystery because I have no idea how long the bike shop had it. But if memory serves me right, Campy Victory was available in 1984. My contacts with Sean White, the product manager at Falcon, were fruitless as their records only went back to 1989.

I assume your respray, like mine, "lost" the decals. But Cyclomondo has them and they are well worth it.

Looks like we have the same frame and feel the same way about it.:thumbsup:


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## dmar836 (Nov 17, 2007)

Greg does good work. I have several sets awaiting application.
Hurry up. I wanna see it!
Dave
KC


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

dmar836 said:


> Greg does good work. I have several sets awaiting application.
> Hurry up. I wanna see it!
> Dave
> KC


As much as I want to "hurry up," I'm going to take my time with this. Like Hickey, for the shorter winter days and restricted riding time, I seem to be spending most of my saddle time on the fixie.

I've got the Campy cable/housing set but I haven't decided where to go with "trim" color. I'm sort of leaning towards a monochromatic scheme. White or black saddle/bar tape. The little bit of blue and red in the decals won't stand out and I think it will minimize the carbon bits until I can go back to a steel fork with a silver alloy quill stem (at least that's the goal.) Michelin Lithiums or Krylions in the grey/black would look good on the Open Pros too. We've got a beautiful NOS Selcof alloy seatpost in the shop, but even for me it's a bit pricey.

A bit of advice sought. I figured I would do all the "bolt-ons" (crank, brakes, derailleurs, etc.) before I did the decals. String the cables and housing last. I'm hoping to minimize the chance of damaging the decals during "high torque" installs. Make sense?


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Oh yeah, and stainless bottle cages.


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## Don Duende (Sep 13, 2007)

Richard said:


> carted the frame off to Olympic Powdercoating in Santa Ana. I decided to go back to the original color - Anthracite. For now, it's going back together with the carbon fork, but I'm keeping my eye out for a good Reynolds steel one. As the color is a stock one for Olympic, they guaranteed they could match it



What does Olympic charge for a stock color paint job?


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Don Duende said:


> What does Olympic charge for a stock color paint job?


Frame and fork, including media blasting, will run about $110 for a "solid" color - no clear coat. I've had three done in a metallic plus clear coat which will go for about $135. They have a huge array of color choices to boot.

Their work is impossible to distinguish from "wet paint" and I can't say that about all the powdercoat jobs we've seen come into our shop.

The downside to powdercoat is your stuck with one color and can't clearcoat over decals. I've seen some incredible work from Spectrum in Colorado but they're about as expensive as going to CyclArt or Joe Bell. The work CyclArt did on my old Bob Jackson was flawless. Red to white to black fade, gold pinstripe around the lugs, and clear over the decals to where it was absolutely smooth. But that set me back $600 in 1989!

The plus of powdercoating is that it is very tough. I dropped my Raleigh on the workstand and I guarantee with paint it would have gone down to the metal. With the powdercoat, it just left a scratch that I all but eliminated with some rubbing compound and wax.


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

Richard said:


> That's it. Go to the "Falcon Genealogy" thread here (yes - misspelled). On the last page a poster linked to pictures in the 1987 Catalog. There was my bike, and sounds like yours also.
> 
> I assume your respray, like mine, "lost" the decals. But Cyclomondo has them and they are well worth it.
> 
> ...


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

spastook said:


> Richard said:
> 
> 
> > That's it. Go to the "Falcon Genealogy" thread here (yes - misspelled). On the last page a poster linked to pictures in the 1987 Catalog. There was my bike, and sounds like yours also.
> ...


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

Richard said:


> spastook said:
> 
> 
> > Falcons were always a little bit below the radar as "quality" bikes in the '80's. I've seen a lot of lugged steel in my 62 years and my Falcon is as good as anything out there.
> ...


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Richard,
Good job on the repaint. Please post the pics when you have finished the project.

I just finished my recent Falcon project. The paint and decals came out great. My thanks to Greg Softley (Cyclomondo) for having the interest to do this sort of decal work.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

kjung said:


> Richard,
> Good job on the repaint. Please post the pics when you have finished the project.
> 
> I just finished my recent Falcon project. The paint and decals came out great. My thanks to Greg Softley (Cyclomondo) for having the interest to do this sort of decal work.


Kjung - absolutely fantastic job. Now that is "period correct."

Mine is going back (at least for now) as kind of a "resto-mod" with the carbon bits and all. I'm going to try to take and post pics as I go along.


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Thanks Richard for the encouraging comments. 

I was thinking about the fork you need. I have seen some vintage 531 forks on ebay from time to time. Difficult to tell what they came off of (Raleighs maybe), or if the height is correct for your bike. Also, I think that Tange may produce some retro-looking forks. If you found one in chrome, you wouldn't have to get it painted.

Alas, I too have tossed some bike parts I wish I had kept. Good luck with your project.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

kjung said:


> Thanks Richard for the encouraging comments.
> 
> I was thinking about the fork you need. I have seen some vintage 531 forks on ebay from time to time. Difficult to tell what they came off of (Raleighs maybe), or if the height is correct for your bike. Also, I think that Tange may produce some retro-looking forks. If you found one in chrome, you wouldn't have to get it painted.
> 
> Alas, I too have tossed some bike parts I wish I had kept. Good luck with your project.


Any tips on decal application? I know Greg provides an instruction sheet but the "voice of experience" really counts. I'd sure hate to screw it up!:cryin:


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

I have to confess that the frames I've restored have been sent to professionals for painting. I just supplied the decals, and detailed instructions. In fact, the frames have been 'clearcoated' over the decals, and paint. I did not use powdercoat because you cannot generally 'clearcoat' over it.
That being said, I have though about it, and would probably use the 'wet application' method described in the instructions. I have a feeling that when removed from the paper, those decals will really stick! Hopefully with the 'wet' method, you will have a bit of wiggle room. The downside to that is the drying time.

Here is a link to a Tange Chrome Moly fork. I'm sure there are many other sources.

http://www.bikeparts.com/productinfo/Tange-1-Road-Fork-17050mm-Chrome-44821-3973.html

I also saw a couple of old 531 forks on ebay. 

Good luck with the project, and please post pics.


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Here is another link to a 'retro' fork. However this one uses a threadless steerer.
1 1/8" It is a nice looking fork, almost in your paint color. Seems a bit $$

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/piucmf/ird_crmo_lugged_road_fork/pp.htm


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Ebay fork.

http://cgi.ebay.com/700-c-1-threade...emZ150322415104QQcategoryZ56196QQcmdZViewItem


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Here is site with 1" ((threadless)), chromoloy forks.

http://rd.unrealcycles.com/catalog/item398.htm


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## spastook (Nov 30, 2007)

You'll have time to "move" them around a bit after application but without a clearcoat over them they won't last long unless you're incredibly careful. Never ever lean it against anything.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

kjung - I checked out the forks. The last thing I want to do is go with a "unicrown" steel fork. And the the other source was threadless. If I bother with going back to a steel fork, I want a sloping or flat crowned threaded. But thanks for the links. A co-worker has a nice Tange threaded one, but he wants a lot of money for it despite the fact that I know somebody gave it to him. I occasionally have principles.

Spastook - I know about the drawbacks of no clearcoat over decals. But I'm pretty careful about how I take care of my bikes - heck, I made that Medici respray last for 17+ years. Despite somewhere in excess of 50k miles on the old steed.

As I've said before, this bike has been a rider, not a trailer queen. I've done more centuries on it than any other bike I've ever had. I don't want it "so perfect" that I'd be afraid to ride it. But the prospect of taking it back (within reason and a tight budget) to near what it was 20 years ago is fun.

I truly appreciate all the advice and interest. And I'll keep posting about the process.


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## Dave Hickey (Jan 27, 2002)

Richard said:


> Any tips on decal application? I know Greg provides an instruction sheet but the "voice of experience" really counts. I'd sure hate to screw it up!:cryin:



I've done a few frame decals and I've found it's easiest to start at the center and work towards the top and bottom.. If you are applying the "Falcon" logo, apply the logo at the widest part of the tube and work toward the top and than the bottom.. It's much easier to than starting at the top and working down to the bottom


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Dave Hickey said:


> I've done a few frame decals and I've found it's easiest to start at the center and work towards the top and bottom.. If you are applying the "Falcon" logo, apply the logo at the widest part of the tube and work toward the top and than the bottom.. It's much easier to than starting at the top and working down to the bottom


Once again, thanks Dave.

In that I don't have to worry about it "drying out" for clear coat, I'll use Greg's rec's about a little dishwater soap. I'm going to build it up short of cable/housing install (so I don't put the torque wrench into the downtube), clean the you no what out of it and go from there.

I've been under the weather for a few days, but tomorrow into the shop for parts clean and at least bb and crank install. I want to post some "step by step" pics.


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## DannyBoy (Feb 19, 2004)

Can't wait to see the finished article - get a move on .


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

*Maybe a bit much.*

I was considering the new Concor Light in white (sorry Dave - as much as I like the Regal it's a brick even with the ti rails).

Then I saw this.......


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## austex (Sep 20, 2004)

Richard said:


> I was considering the new Concor Light in white (sorry Dave - as much as I like the Regal it's a brick even with the ti rails).
> 
> Then I saw this.......


Oh go on, you know you wanna - I did


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## tarwheel2 (Jul 7, 2005)

*falcon*



Richard said:


> Kjung - absolutely fantastic job. Now that is "period correct."
> 
> Mine is going back (at least for now) as kind of a "resto-mod" with the carbon bits and all. I'm going to try to take and post pics as I go along.


I love your Falcon -- Carolina Blue!


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

*Some lousy pictures.*

Indoor flash just doesn't do justice to fine Campagnolo parts.

But I cleaned up and installed the derailleurs, brakes and crank today.

The build may be delayed as the Michelin Krylion Carbons in a gray/black I ordered may not be here before the end of the week.

I did get the Campy cable/housing set and the stainless bottle cages

But here is where we are.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Also thinking about an alloy Campy seat post, but for now thinking a carbon one will "ballance" out the carbon fork and stem. It's a work in progress, but bottom line, I'm building a "rider". This will be my "rouleur".


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

austex said:


> Oh go on, you know you wanna - I did


I've been searching. Nobody, including Performance, seems to have this saddle in stock.

Maybe a bit "over the top", but as a retro mod I think it could actually be cool. At least all my co-workers think so.


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## austex (Sep 20, 2004)

My Union Jack Rolls came from probikekit.com, $40 shipped to my door in Texas.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

austex said:


> My Union Jack Rolls came from probikekit.com, $40 shipped to my door in Texas.


Just checked them out. No Union Jacks - either Rolls or Aspides. Performance shows the Aspide but continually (and typically) is "out of stock."


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

*More pics.*

Got a few before it got too dark. Then it was the flash - not my favorite.

Put the decals on today and I did screw up. I used Greg's recommended "wet" application. But the humidity today was about 10%. I got the downtube decal a little crooked and by the time I needed to move it, it was sticking. Net result was I got some "stretch" and creases. The rest went O.K.

I looked at the old catalog pics to get the positioning right. I did move the Reynolds sticker down a bit so the Silca frame pump wouldn't obscure it.

By and large, it's good. Actually even better than the original factory decals which were very poorly applied. In the name of authenticity......

Waiting on some Michelin Krylion Carbons in the black/gray and still heven't decided on saddle/bar tape combo.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

*Slowley but surely.*

It's coming together. Still waiting on the tires and deciding on the bar tape. We've got some "platinum" grippy tape that looks kind of cool.

Tomorrow it goes into the shop to string the cables and housing.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

*Finally done so it rains.*

It took a while, but I really wasn't in a hurry. I had to wait for the tires to come from Wisconsin if I wanted the gray stripe Michelins. And I've been under the weather until a few days ago.

Notice I said "reborn" - not "restored." It's really kind of a "resto-mod" what with the carbon bits (and dam* I wish they didn't have the late Supergo's stupid "Weyless" logo all over them. Can't think of a more stupid name but they are good parts.) Had to stay within budget as the other half's income has been seriously curtailed in these times and I have to absorb more of the monthly nut.

Last minute decision to try the "Platinum" colored Bontrager grippy tape. Wasn't sure but I think it looks good with the rest of the package. And the Campy 8 Record works like...well Campy Record. Buttery smooth in both shifting and braking, in part because I used the ridiculously expensive (even wholesale) Campy cables and housing.

I cannot recommend highly enough Greg Softley/Cyclomondo's product. Just superb.

Wanted to ride today but the rain is coming. I'm a woose and the last thing I'm doing is taking this thing out in the rain.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Got a chance to ride it around the park before the rain came down with the other half on the Fisher Simple City.

All I can say is that this baby is sweet.


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## Simonwillis (Sep 4, 2011)

i also have a falcon olypmic bike and im half way through refurbishing it but i dont know what size forks i need, my tyres say 28-622 (700x28c) does anyone know what size rims they are please and if you know what size forks ill need that would be amazing!!! thank you so much


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

Maybe Richard will post his experience in fork selection, as I'm not sure how to select the proper length of a fork, for any given frame size. I can tell you that the fork spacing (for wheels) is all pretty much the same even on the older bikes, at 100mm.

As for rim sizes, yours are 700cc, which is pretty standard diameter. The only size other than that which was used on older frames was 27" diameter, but you don't have that if the tires are 700x28c. The 27" rims are actually a bit larger than the 700cc rims.

Are you asking about the width of the rims, which can vary quite a bit?


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

As long as it's a 1" threaded, almost anything will work, with a couple of caveats. Forks for 27" wheel frames are going to be longer from brake mounting bolt to dropout center. Could have an effect on frame geometry/handling but, fortunately, most of the 27" forks are lower quality and easy to spot. Ditto for the fork rake/head tube angle equation. Fork rake and head tube angle have to be in some sync to get decent trail.

The other is tire clearance. The steel fork on the Falcon will clear a 700x28 cyclocross tire, while the fork on my Fuso barely clears a 700x23 road tire


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## russd32 (Aug 25, 2011)

That is a gorgeous bike man!


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## Simonwillis (Sep 4, 2011)

Can I ask where you got your falcon olympic stickers from?? Thanks


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Simonwillis said:


> Can I ask where you got your falcon olympic stickers from?? Thanks


Greg Softly out of Australia has an eBay store called Cyclomundo. An amazing assortment of vintage reproductions (better than originals) for Italian, British, and French frames, rims, tubing, etc.

Good guy and reasonable prices.:thumbsup:


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## Simonwillis (Sep 4, 2011)

Thanks rich, I'll be ordering mine, your project looks brilliant


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## Simonwillis (Sep 4, 2011)

Hello, I have a falcon olympic with 700c wheels , can anyone tell me the size of the forks please


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

When you say 'size of the fork', to which dimension are you referring??


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## Simonwillis (Sep 4, 2011)

Any dimensions that will mean it'll fit my bike and that the brake will correctly rub on the rim


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## jrsbike (Sep 17, 2011)

Beautiful bike! In the '70's I use to race a Falcoln track bike. It was a little heavy but once under way it went like rocket. I 'd love to have it back.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Being that this thread is getting lots of love, here's some pics of the Falcon as it finally (and currently) is.

Despite owning some other very nice bikes, if somebody held a gun to my head and said "one bike or none," this would probably be it. To me, it's just amazing how well 20+ year old "technology" has held up.


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## falcon76 (Nov 23, 2007)

*My Falcon Experience*

Great looking refurb job on your Falcon. My first "real" road bike was a Falcon that I picked up at the factory in 1976 while traveling back to the US through England. It had a 531 frame double butted throughout but the components were lower end. It had the rounded wrapover seat stays which you don't see on many bikes and the long pointed lugs typical on most Falcons. It only cost me $120 at the time and I later upgraded most of the components. The buying experience was so great. My wife and I were met at the train station by the manager who gave us a tour of the factory and showed me my bike in production. He even bought me a beer at the pub while we waited for the train after visiting the factory. We then did a week long tour through Scotland and when we came back the bike was boxed and ready for shipping. I rode it until around 2003 and foolishly sold it when I realized it was too big for me. I wish I still had it for sentimental reasons if nothing else.


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

*Fork for Falcon*

Do a search for Tange Road Fork. They still produce some forks for older steel frames. Since you previously mentioned that your wheels/tire size was 700x28 you are looking for a standard 700cc fork, not 27" which is made to accommodate a larger rim. As long as the fork is made for a 700cc wheel, you should have no problem with the braking surface. Also most older brakes have some vertical pad adjustment to get the braking dialed in. 

The fork you select should also have a 1" threaded steerer, and most likely not have been cut too short. The overall steerer length is where you have to be careful, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem. 
Also most vintage bikes do not have recessed brakes, meaning the brake nut on the back side of the fork crown. (where the 1" steerer meets the part that holds the wheel). 

I have seen Tange forks on eBay, and new on-line. You might also try your local bike shop, as they can probably order one and help you fit it? Although if the guys I. The shop don't have any grey hair you might try another shop!:thumbsup:

Good luck.


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## kjung (Mar 25, 2007)

*Fork for Falcon*

Do a search for Tange Road Fork. They still produce some forks for older steel frames. Since you previously mentioned that your wheels/tire size was 700x28 you are looking for a standard 700cc fork, not 27" which is made to accommodate a larger rim. As long as the fork is made for a 700cc wheel, you should have no problem with the braking surface. Also most older brakes have some vertical pad adjustment to get the braking dialed in. 

The fork you select should also have a 1" threaded steerer, and most likely not have been cut too short. The overall steerer length is where you have to be careful, but it shouldn't be too much of a problem. This is where you need to know the size of your bike frame. 
Also most vintage bikes do not have recessed brakes, meaning the brake nut on the back side of the fork crown. (where the 1" steerer meets the part that holds the wheel). 

I have seen Tange forks on eBay, and new on-line. Ebay also periodically has 'vintage forks for auction'. You might also try your local bike shop, as they can probably order (Tange) one and help you fit it? Although if the guys at the shop don't have any grey hair you might try another shop!:thumbsup:

Good luck.


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