# Strange problem with Campag rear dropouts on Corsa Extra



## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

Hi gang,

I recently picked up a pretty much NOS corsa extra (the only signs of it having been built up are indents on inside of dropouts where lock nuts have pressed against the steel). My guess is that it was an ex shop display or the like.

I went to build her up this afternoon and noticed when positioning the rear wheel that the brev.campagnolo dropouts had different sized slots. 10mm non-drive side. 8mm on drive side ! 

At first I thought the dropout had been distorted as the rear fork adjuster screw had been damaged slightly by the courier company during transit (bent). But when I took it to a engineer friend of mine, he was certain the dropout had not been bent and the slot was actually made that size. On the base of dropout and rear mech hanger there are no signs that it has taken a knock. 

I only know a little about old steel bikes and all my builds have been of the neo classic type (ie modern components on retro rigs) so wondered if anyone has come across this before? The only solution I can think of beside file away 2 mm of the drop out (only joking obviously!) is to file by hand a flat on either side of the axel (1mm off either side) but wondered how safe it would be to ride?


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## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

bolo yeung said:


> Hi gang,
> 
> I recently picked up a pretty much NOS corsa extra (the only signs of it having been built up are indents on inside of dropouts where lock nuts have pressed against the steel). My guess is that it was an ex shop display or the like.
> 
> ...


 Actually it's pretty common to have to file a dropout once in a while if it gets bent or has too much paint or chrome. Quality control being what it was, its certainly possible that one was off that much. If you can't get the wheel in, I would use a combination of GENTLY enlarging it using a big screwdriver of similar, and a dremel on the dropout. You don't have to do the whole dropout, just up to where the adjuster screw is. I would do the bottom. I have had to dremel out a few and never had a problem. Congrats on your purchase, BTW, you will be a happy camper. DOnt forget pix.


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## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

thanks for the quick response. Dremmel it is then. Although I think I might try and remove enough material from the drop out rather than try bending it with a screwdriver as is already slight signs of the chrome plating cracking from the damaged fork end adjuster. 

I guess the chrome plating around the drop will shatter slightly once I start filling away at it. Would a clear lacquer do the trick to stop any moisture getting in?


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## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

pics of new corsa extra. a couple showing the bent rear fork. If im going down the 'filing drop out route' then I need to get rid of approx 1.5mm - 2mm of material from the lower portion of the slot. Im wondering if a hand file might be safer than the dremel grinding stone to do this job though? or worse case send off to our local frame builder to see what they can do (but their first suggestion when I spoke on the phone was that they would replace with a new drop out).

This little accident with the courier is a real shame, as I bought the frame for what I consider an absolute steal (a little over £200 which included shipping, a new Record headset and new chorus BB !)

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## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

First, You should be ashamed for stealing that frame and fork, becausing stealing you did!! Congrats.
It looks clearly bent in, and too much material in my opinion to grind away. I think your first step should be to GENTLY AND UNDER CONTROL bend it back toward original position. With proper leverage an oversized screwdriver with a cheater bar will work, use big washers for leverage with the screwdriver( ie the screwdriver or whatever you use will be thinner than dropout spacing so you will need some steel for a fulcrum). I would come at it directly from the open end of the dropout. SLOWLY! THat should get most of the opening back, then you can grind the remainder down. I have used this method with success, IMO, it doesnt need to be replaced.

b21


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## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

Pls see attached. Is this the right place to position washers/screwdriver ??

Given that there is the fork end adjuster screw hole at the rear of the drop Im a little concerned that I might crack the steel around the said tapped hole (where there is least material). I'll get hold of a large lever + washers and try it at the weekend.


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## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

bolo yeung said:


> Pls see attached. Is this the right place to position washers/screwdriver ??
> 
> Given that there is the fork end adjuster screw hole at the rear of the drop Im a little concerned that I might crack the steel around the said tapped hole (where there is least material). I'll get hold of a large lever + washers and try it at the weekend.


if it didnt crack in the initial BANG, I seriously doubt it will crack moving it back.


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## bolo yeung (Jul 14, 2008)

apologies. I didn' t upload the file. 

Is this the correct place to position the screwdriver and washers. May seem like an idiot question but dont want to get this wrong.

View attachment 170571


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## barry1021 (Nov 27, 2005)

bolo yeung said:


> apologies. I didn' t upload the file.
> 
> Is this the correct place to position the screwdriver and washers. May seem like an idiot question but dont want to get this wrong.
> 
> View attachment 170571


'Zactly. Even use a cheater bar on the screwdriver (piece of black pipe). This will give you max control, and u will be able to move it with little pressure, I.E. more control. Make sure the frame is secure too. Luck!

b21


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