# Anyone heard of Superia bikes?



## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

I just picked up two old road bikes off Craigslist this weekend for $10 each. One is a fully functional old Raleigh Grand Prix than just needs a cleaning, tune-up, and lube. :thumbsup: 

The other will be my next singlespeed 'pub crawler' project, as I don't like taking my nicer bike(s) downtown and leaving them locked to a post somewhere. The only frame markings I saw on this bike is the name 'Superia' on the downtube. I'll try to get more info or some pictures up soon, but does anyone have any knowlwdge of this bike brand? Years produced? Type of tubing used, required seapost size (currently missing), BB dimensions, etc? 

Thanks folks.


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## boneman (Nov 26, 2001)

*Belgium*

Merckx rode one in the mid-60's when riding for the Solo-Superia team. Superia was also ridden by van Steenbergen, van Looy and Sercu to name a few Belgium legends. Information's a bit hard to come by and I have seen one for decades



hallin222 said:


> I just picked up two old road bikes off Craigslist this weekend for $10 each. One is a fully functional old Raleigh Grand Prix than just needs a cleaning, tune-up, and lube. :thumbsup:
> 
> The other will be my next singlespeed 'pub crawler' project, as I don't like taking my nicer bike(s) downtown and leaving them locked to a post somewhere. The only frame markings I saw on this bike is the name 'Superia' on the downtube. I'll try to get more info or some pictures up soon, but does anyone have any knowlwdge of this bike brand? Years produced? Type of tubing used, required seapost size (currently missing), BB dimensions, etc?
> 
> Thanks folks.


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

Bet Merckx's "Superia's" were "rebadged" Colnago's, DeRosa's, or Masi's. Even that early in his career. But we'll never know, will we.

(Posted for giggles!)


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

Here's my attempt at posting some pics. Does this help anyone identify this frame? Sorry, my camera wasn't focusing properly. The headbadge says Superia 50


Also, can anyone tell me what kind of puller I need to remove these cranks? It looks like it just has a pinch bolt clamping the arms to a spline, but I can't tell how to remove them. It's now down to the bare frame except this step. Thanks, folks,

*EDIT* photos won't upload. I'll try again later. Argh!

Ian


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## boneman (Nov 26, 2001)

*Cottered Cranks*

Sounds like you have cottered cranks. Here's a link from Sheldon Brown.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

Having done these before, they're pain the the butt. Getting the pin out can be difficult and then pulling the arm, another case of force, even with the proper puller.

Once off, I would advise replacing them with cotterless cranks.

Good luck. Get some liquid wrench, ball peen hammer, punch bolt tool and a propane torch. Alternatively, pay a shop to do the work.



hallin222 said:


> Here's my attempt at posting some pics. Does this help anyone identify this frame? Sorry, my camera wasn't focusing properly. The headbadge says Superia 50
> 
> 
> Also, can anyone tell me what kind of puller I need to remove these cranks? It looks like it just has a pinch bolt clamping the arms to a spline, but I can't tell how to remove them. It's now down to the bare frame except this step. Thanks, folks,
> ...


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

Here are some pics of this rig is its current (rough state). Sorry for the poor focus on that headtube pic. That badge reads: "Superia 50". I got he cottered cranks arms off last night and it was really no trouble at all. Thanks for the Sheldon Brown link, though.

Is this frame anything I should feel guilty about hacking up? I plan to remove all cable guides, etc for a claener look before I repaint it, but would hate to 'damage' a frame that has some kind of historical significance. I'm guessing that it's nothing special, but thought I'd ask first.


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## bwana (Feb 4, 2005)

Doesn't look like you should feel guilty. It looks to me like the rear dropouts are stamped rather than forged, so it isn't a high end frame from that era, and the rest of the components are also indicative of a bike built for the masses (suicide levers, stem-mounted shift levers).


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

Cool. I'll finish the tear down (only the BB is left to remove), start grinding/sanding and get ready for paint. Any suggustions? It's gonna be cheap (read: rattlecan) but I want it to look halfway decent. I'm thinking some Rustoleum satin black, with maybe flat white lugs and some red pin striping. I'm thinking of going with a 50's hotrod kind of look. No matter what, it'll be a clean and simple.


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

Project update: I've removed all cable guides and other ugly tack welds, finished sanding, and have finished my satin black rattle can paint job. It came out ok. Not perfect, but good enough for a $10 beater bike.

Upon sanding down some of the factory paint, I found a couple more idnetifying marks stamped into the lugs. The head tube lugs have 'BCM' stamped into them as well as a '61' (presumabley frame size, as I measured it to be about a 60cm) and a '72'. I'm wondering if the latter could be the production year. There was also what seems to be a serial number on one of the rear dropouts, but without any info on this brand of frame, I doubt it will do me much good in helping me identify it.

The good news it that it may be able use a modern sealed ISIS BB that I laying around. Too bad I don't have any spare cranks to match it. Anyone have a set, with 175+mm arms, laying around? Or a set of 700c wheels? This bike came equipped with wide steel rims (HEAVY) that I'd like to replace with something slightly better.

I'll try to post up some pics in a day or two as I begin the reassembly. Not that anyone probably cares, but writing this status report is a way for me to track my own progress and makes me feel a little closer to completing this project


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## badder2 (Jun 26, 2006)

I care!

I love reading peoples rebuild experiences.


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

badder2 said:


> I care!
> 
> I love reading peoples rebuild experiences.


Great. Then these are for you, badder2. Please not that this is my first attempt at painting a frame, and I don't know how good it will hold up, but it looks ok for now.

DURING PAINTING:


















REASSEMBLY BEGINNING:


































Total investment so far: about $19 ($10 for bike + $9 for paint supplies). The MTB bars and brake lever came out of the parts bin, as will the saddle once I find a proper seatpost (26.0 maybe?). I will need to invest $20 in some tires though.


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## badder2 (Jun 26, 2006)

Great job!

I am also in the process of repainting a frame also (though its a newer MB that had been abused). Like yourself, I am just spray bombing it and will clear coat it as well.

What did you use to remove the paint (original and new) from the lugs?


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

I didn't remove all the paint everywhere. Most places I just scuffed in down pretty deep with sandpaper (dry) and only took it down to bare steel around some of the larger chips or where there was light rust that needed to be removed. Two coats of Rustoleum 'Stops Rust' dark grey primer and two coats of Rustoleum satin black. No clear coat. I guess I could've hit the whole thing with a flat clear, but I didn't bother. 

The lugs are just hand painted with one of those arts and crafts type paint markers in a silver with light metallic. Because of the roughness of the brushed paint it looks alost like a silver foil has bwwn applied and brushed for texture. Not what I was planning, but kind cool anyway. I think the silver could use another coat, but I was debating wheter or not to do the remainder of the lugs first. What do you folks think?


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## Swish (Jul 31, 2004)

nice rebuild! you just can't get past the classy look of lugs.


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## moschika (Feb 1, 2004)

nice job. but in the close-up of the head lugs in the last pic, it looks like the downtube is a little less then straight, with a slight bulge just below the lug.


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

moschika said:


> nice job. but in the close-up of the head lugs in the last pic, it looks like the downtube is a little less then straight, with a slight bulge just below the lug.


Yeah, i don't know what that's all about. All parts appear to be original (fork, wheels, etc) and there were no signs of it ever being repainted in the past as may have been done after a crash or something. I'm not worried about it. Build it, ride it, break it, whatever.


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

It's all done....kind of. Meaning, it's all together and ridable again, but I still might make a few changes. Gearing is something like 40x16 right now, whish seems ok, but I'd like to replace that rear freewheel with a single BMX type sometime. The steel 27" wheels and dry-rotted tires were replaced with a 700cx35 set-up off an old Miyata commuter style bike that I picked up out of the LBS's junk pile. The rear wheel may need to be replaced as it is pretty far out of true right now (haven't got around to messing with it yet, I just wanted to get it all together first) and it has one nipple that's trying to pull through the rim. I'll probably get it as close to tru as reasonably possible (not critical since there's no rear brake) and ride it until it fails. 

The cranks, BB, and chainring as well as saddle, seatpost, ad front brake pads were robbed from that same doner bike. The saddle will probably be replaced with something else from my parts bin as it's pretty terrible looking, worn, and the padding is beat down to the pan. I'm also used to riding with much longer stems, so the steering feels very quick and the cockpit is a little tight for me (at 6'3"). A stem swap might be in the future as well. Too bad too, cause I spent a little time sanding this one to look good again. Oh well. 

Let me know what you all think. Criticism and suggestions are welcomed.


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## badder2 (Jun 26, 2006)

So how does it ride??


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

badder2 said:


> So how does it ride??


Not bad with the exception of the coments above. I've already swapped my saddle to a Fizik Pave that I had in my parts bin and dropped my saddle height about 3/8". I could still use a little more stem length, but it's not overly cramped. I've only got a few miles on it around my neighborhood and noticed that with those big 35mm tires I don't need as much pressure as something narrower. The first ride was a tad harsh because of this (and that old saddle). I might gear it up a little in the future. I may also add the silver paint the the lugs on the seat tube like I did to the head tube. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

So whatcha think of the finished product? Not bad for being damn near free. The frame looks pretty clean now with no cable guides or water bottle bolt holes (it never had any of those, anyway).


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## velogy (Jan 19, 2010)

any chance you could share some geometry on that superia? i'd be thrilled to know.
thanks so much.
[email protected]


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

velogy said:


> any chance you could share some geometry on that superia? i'd be thrilled to know.
> thanks so much.
> [email protected]


Wow, bringing back an old post! I would have measured it for you, Mary, unfortunately I sold it this past Christmas Eve. If you'd like I may be able to track down the buyer's email address. Let me know.


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## velogy (Jan 19, 2010)

Are you kidding? That would be amazing! Thanks for the offer. If you can't find the guy, I'll understand but if it works that would be awesome. Thanks, Hal2
-Mary


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## hallin222 (Jun 22, 2006)

velogy said:


> Are you kidding? That would be amazing! Thanks for the offer. If you can't find the guy, I'll understand but if it works that would be awesome. Thanks, Hal2
> -Mary


Mary, contact info has been emailed to the address you provided. Good luck.


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