# New bike / clipless pedals



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

Greetings.... So, I've been doing more research and spoken to a few people and have a question. Given my budget, I think I have two choices in buying a bike at the LBS.

1 - buy a 2nd tier bike (ie, the 2013 trek 1.2) and ride away.
2 - buy the lowest level bike (ie, the 2013 trek 1.2), and use the $200 to come back and get some pedals/shoes after i get used to riding.

This LBS offers free lifetime tune-ups with purchases, which is quite a selling point, given their convenience to my office. 

the negative side is right now they only carry Trek. They will be getting cannondale within the next few weeks, but its just a territory thing as they have another location 10 miles away where they carry Cannondale (and another a few miles past that that carries specialized as well). Guess the manufacturer does not want to oversaturate the market. question here is, is it really worth running around to try bikes out? or at this level, will it really make a difference?


----------



## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

gskalt said:


> This LBS offers free lifetime tune-ups with purchases, which is quite a selling point, given their convenience to my office.


You have to see those lifetime deals for what they're worth. Tune-ups other than the first or second one generally involve replacing parts, which you will have to pay for. So from a shop's perspective, the lifetime tuneup is really more of a marketing tool to keep you coming back to that shop and buy stuff.


----------



## MPov (Oct 22, 2010)

Yes it is worth trying bikes out. Even at that level you will probably find some you like more than others. BTW Trek 1.2 is not a bad bike. I road it's predecessor, the 1200, for many years.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

MPov said:


> Yes it is worth trying bikes out. Even at that level you will probably find some you like more than others. BTW Trek 1.2 is not a bad bike. I road it's predecessor, the 1200, for many years.


I agree. Everything from bar shape to gearing to slight differences in fit/ feel may sway you towards (or away from) a bike. 

While test riding an assortment, you'll form preferences and (IMO/E) make a more educated purchasing decision.

Re: the free tuneups, they wouldn't sway me one way or the other. I suggest going with the shop that emphasizes the importance of fit and (ideally) has the bike you prefer.


----------



## boggart (Aug 25, 2012)

Hey I just got the 13' 1.2! Love it. But... You list it as both second tier, and first.... Typo? Definitely try out different bikes especially since the second lbs is so close.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

boggart said:


> Hey I just got the 13' 1.2! Love it. But... You list it as both second tier, and first.... Typo? Definitely try out different bikes especially since the second lbs is so close.


yeah i probably made a mistake. I'm looking more at the 1.1 for the price range. although the 1.2 for 2013 has some upgrades over last year. the sora components have been upgraded and the shifter is all integrated. but the $200+ difference.... i'm trying to decide if i'm better off with the better bike (IE, the 1.2) or the lesser bike (IE, the 1.1) with the pedal system. this keeps my $$ spend in the same ball park. I wouldnt do it all at once as I'd rather get used to the bike before the pedals. so essentially what my decision comes down to is do I want the pedals or the components/carbon fork?

the second bike shop is not that far away... on the map, unfortuantely living in the metro NY area, that can turn into 45 minutes very quickly in the lovely traffic we get in NY/CT! 

i would never buy i bike site unseen at my level. Trying out as many as possible gives me some more options. but at waht points am i ever-doing it? just based on what's listed online I can swing the giant defy 5, trek 1.1 (or 1.2 sans pedals),


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

IMHO, any more online research is going to be a waste of your time.

Go ride some bikes.

Don't they come with some basic clipped pedals at that pricepoint? You can ride in running shoes for several weeks (or indefinitely, TBH) until you've collected a couple more paychecks and you can spend some money again.


----------



## CycleFiend17 (Aug 27, 2012)

Have you looked at the 2012 models.

You can save some $$$ for gear


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

AndrwSwitch said:


> IMHO, any more online research is going to be a waste of your time.
> 
> Go ride some bikes.
> 
> Don't they come with some basic clipped pedals at that pricepoint? You can ride in running shoes for several weeks (or indefinitely, TBH) until you've collected a couple more paychecks and you can spend some money again.


I do need to ride, problem is that the selection isnt great. there is a store not terribly far which has been highly recommended and carries multiple brands of bikes. only problem is with service. i'm not mechanically inclined enough to do a lot and dont trust my skills for somethign that could endanger myself, so getting some service is important to me. 

yes the bikes will come with pedals with the cage contraption, so that is the goal and the plan was to do that until i prove to myself i'm into it and will get pedals/shoes. 

one question i think that has been answered from reading some posts through these forums is that while there are certainly differences between the levels of components, i'm not going to appreciate the difference between shimano 2300 to Sora to Tiagra enough where it will make enough difference. FIT, most important to me enjoying the ride.

One more option There's a Triathlon/multisport store nearby and while they dont carry much in the way of lower end bikes, he's got a Felt z95 that is collecting dust and they are having a sale. If i can get there tomorrow before the store closes, i will try and take for a test ride. The store owner and I bonded quite quickly. Not only did i show up based on a referral, we both have achieved "survivor" status after seperate bouts with cancer, so he may wiggle a little on the pricing as he seems quite interested in seeing me succeed in my triathlon quest


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

boggart said:


> Hey I just got the 13' 1.2! Love it. But... You list it as both second tier, and first.... Typo? Definitely try out different bikes especially since the second lbs is so close.


glad you like!!! i might try and go test ride them this weekend. funny, i posed the question to the sales person there of given equal money to spend... would i be best suited getting the trek 1.1 and down the road pedals/shoes, or the 1.2 and nothing else, period. she told me the 2012 models, defintely iption 1. but with the upgrades on teh 1.2, to ride the 1.2 in running shoes.


----------



## RyleyinSTL (Aug 6, 2012)

PJ352 is bang on when he says that a plethora of test rides will help make a more educated purchasing decision.

Despite riding for years, when I was looking to replace my road bike a few weeks back, I spent the better part of a week driving around to all the shops within a 20 mile radius and road over a dozen different bikes. Can you get a good bike if you just walk into the Trek store and purchase the first thing that feels good and fits the budget? Sure you can....but you'll likely land an amazing bike if you shop around.

Free tuneups are a bonus but such adjustments (especially at the level your going to get for free) are inexpensive. If you purchase the bike at one shop you can still take it for service at another.

Ride lots of bikes and have fun!


----------



## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

Getting clipless pedals are going to be a big deal in the near future. You cannot make the most out of your road bike without them. That said, for the level of bike and rider you are, I don't see the need to spend $200 on a set. I just bought a set of Shimano M520 MTB pedals from Nashbar for less than $30. These are great for a beginner because the clips are on both sides. You should be able to get a decent set of MTB shoes (so you can walk in them) for a reasonable amount. I would say you could get the whole setup for $100 if you shop online. Installing pedals is about the easiest thing a novice can do.

Long term, I would think about learning to do at least the minor wrenching yourself. Adjusting brakes and derailleurs, seats, etc. is not very hard once you see how. If you put enough miles in, you will want to tweak things to exactly how you like it. It will go way beyond the service agreement you were given. It will also constantly be in and out of the shop. YouTube has tons of videos showing all sorts of stuff. Good luck, have fun, and get on some bikes and try it out.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

RyleyinSTL said:


> PJ352 is bang on when he says that a plethora of test rides will help make a more educated purchasing decision.
> 
> Despite riding for years, when I was looking to replace my road bike a few weeks back, I spent the better part of a week driving around to all the shops within a 20 mile radius and road over a dozen different bikes. Can you get a good bike if you just walk into the Trek store and purchase the first thing that feels good and fits the budget? Sure you can....but you'll likely land an amazing bike if you shop around.
> 
> ...


PJ352 has been providing me with TONS of great advise. soon enough i'll be able to report back to tell everyone abuot what i pick up. agree, i could grab a trek and be happy. for waht its worth, the MTN bike i have now is a trek and its made well. the LBS that carries almost exclusively trek even suggested i try other bikes.... many of the people at good LBS seem to say that they'd rather me be happy than not, even if it means not their store. 

i just want to avoid information overload and make sure i'm rememberign what i liked / disliked about certain bikes. etc....

i probably cant go wrong, just a matter of going as right as i can with the most informed decision so i can get out and enjoy! love traiing for the triathlon, but working alot harder than necessary on teh MTN bike


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

gte105u said:


> Getting clipless pedals are going to be a big deal in the near future. You cannot make the most out of your road bike without them. That said, for the level of bike and rider you are, I don't see the need to spend $200 on a set. I just bought a set of Shimano M520 MTB pedals from Nashbar for less than $30. These are great for a beginner because the clips are on both sides. You should be able to get a decent set of MTB shoes (so you can walk in them) for a reasonable amount. I would say you could get the whole setup for $100 if you shop online. Installing pedals is about the easiest thing a novice can do.
> 
> Long term, I would think about learning to do at least the minor wrenching yourself. Adjusting brakes and derailleurs, seats, etc. is not very hard once you see how. If you put enough miles in, you will want to tweak things to exactly how you like it. It will go way beyond the service agreement you were given. It will also constantly be in and out of the shop. YouTube has tons of videos showing all sorts of stuff. Good luck, have fun, and get on some bikes and try it out.


i agree my experience will be more enjoyable. but again want to make sure i like it first. As for buying at a place like Nasbhar (just foudn that site last night) wont i need to get them fit on the bike for me? and yes, i would like to learn the ways to fix the easy stuff. some of the LBS, and REI offer clinics in these things.

looking forward to it... i'll have to allocate some money for a trainer too. as the colder months approach, i'll need it. plus i work kind of long hours, limiting me during the week. so i'll be riding a lot in my family room.


----------



## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

I work long hours, and with a wife/son at home I don't usually get to ride in the evenings after work. I get up at 4:30 in the mornings to ride/run before work. A decent headlight, a blinker, some light clothes, etc. and you are good to go.

As for buying shoes/pedals online, that is your call or not. Installing pedals takes a 15mm wrench and some grease. The cleats may be easier or harder depending on the sole of the shoe you get. Adjusting the pedal will take either an Allen wrench or a screwdriver. Installing the cleat (assuming the sole of the shoe doesn't need to be modified) is some grease and an Allen wrench.

Adjusting the pedals is pretty easy, go to a flat place where you can hold onto something, clip in, clip out. If you want it tighter or looser turn the adjusting screw and do it again. Adjusting the bike after you put on the pedals may or may not be needed. If it is needed, it will be a matter of small movements in the seat height, position, angle, etc. This is the kind of thing I was saying you will need to learn to do yourself or you will constantly be at the shop. There's not much harm you are going to do in adjusting your seat. It will either make it better or worse, in which case leave it or adjust it again. 

As for fitting the shoes, I don't necessarily think you need to do this in the store. Depending on how well you know your feet, you can probably order them online. Narrow down the list of what you may like based upon features (system of lacing or velcro, walkable or not, carbon or normal, number of holes for the cleat to match your pedal cleats, etc.) and budget. From there read reviews where people say if they run small or not, and decide on your sock situation. Its not that hard to return shoes to most places if you try them on and don't like them. But this is just me, I had a fine experience getting my Tri shoes from Nashbar.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

gte105u said:


> Getting clipless pedals are going to be a big deal in the near future. You cannot make the most out of your road bike without them. That said, for the level of bike and rider you are, I don't see the need to spend $200 on a set. I just bought a set of Shimano M520 MTB pedals from Nashbar for less than $30. These are great for a beginner because the clips are on both sides. You should be able to get a decent set of MTB shoes (so you can walk in them) for a reasonable amount. I would say you could get the whole setup for $100 if you shop online. Installing pedals is about the easiest thing a novice can do.


Some thoughts on this...

I agree that once a pedal system is chosen, buying compatible pedals online is a viable option, but I have to disagree on 1) buying cheap shoes (as in, ill fitting/ not well designed) and 2) buying them online.

As with helmets (as one example), it's best to try on shoes for fit before buying, and IME the best place to do that is at your LBS's. I had Shimano's I used for years and loved, so when it was time to replace them, that was the first brand I focused on. Hated all of them. Tried a few more brands and finally settled on the shoe that's right for me, but it took some trial and error before I found them. 

Also, when buying from LBS's, most will include cleat setup, which (being an integral part of bike fit) needs to be right, and oftentimes requires tweaks to initial fit (mainly, saddle adjustments). 

All things considered, based on my experiences, when the OP is ready to go clipless, I think staying with the LBS is the better way to go.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

I think i'll be doing your schedule a few times per week with that equipment. as for putting the clipless pedals/shoe set up together. that's included in the price if i buy from teh store. all things to consider.... AFTER i get the bike.


----------



## BostonG (Apr 13, 2010)

Just want to chime in and agree that it is best to try out different rides. And, as someone said, spend the $ on a better bike and save up for pedals and shoes after a season or two of riding. Using straps (or nothing but flat pedals) is perfectly fine and is even a good idea until you get acquainted with the bike so I wouldn’t sweat it too much. Just put some $ away each month into your accessory fund so you have it when you are ready.

Also wanted to say that since you are more comfortable letting the shop do most work on your bike it is valuable to have one near where you work/live. But I would check if you could bring the bike into any of the branch shops to do the work? So if you buy from one, can you have the tune up done by any of them? Check with the shop on that and if yes, then you can expand your options to include not only Trek but the other brands. And yes, the fit and feel will be different. 

Mostly though, I wanted to comment on the bikes you may see on sale. It’s tempting to be swept into “saving” a couple hundred. I know, I made that mistake and got a bike that was a “good deal”. Ride the bikes that are on sale but don’t let it pull you into something that doesn’t make you happy and feels good. You’ll know it when you ride it. I rode a bike that was on a great sale. I felt meh (insert shoulder shrug here) on it but bought it anyway – how can I pass up such a great deal I thought. Well, every time I rode that bike it was like…meh. So meh in fact that I ended up mostly riding my commuter instead of the one I had bought! 

Good luck and have fun.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

BostonG said:


> Just want to chime in and agree that it is best to try out different rides. And, as someone said, spend the $ on a better bike and save up for pedals and shoes after a season or two of riding. Using straps (or nothing but flat pedals) is perfectly fine and is even a good idea until you get acquainted with the bike so I wouldn’t sweat it too much. Just put some $ away each month into your accessory fund so you have it when you are ready.
> 
> Also wanted to say that since you are more comfortable letting the shop do most work on your bike it is valuable to have one near where you work/live. But I would check if you could bring the bike into any of the branch shops to do the work? So if you buy from one, can you have the tune up done by any of them? Check with the shop on that and if yes, then you can expand your options to include not only Trek but the other brands. And yes, the fit and feel will be different.
> 
> ...


was trying to multii-quote this but didnt work. 

i'll leave the clipless pedals and so forth until down the road, they make great holiday or birthday gifts. and i will consider the lowest few models, such as the trek 1.1 and 1.2 as options. other brands too, if possible. 

The LBS that people rave about near me is NOT convenient. unfortuantely as a few people i know near me that bike have recommended them. there's one i pass every time i drive anywhere but not a fan for several reasons. i may drop by there this weekend and test drive the specialized and giant models they have. and there's one near me at work. they have a few branches, and some carry different bikes lines. Think that's a territory issue for the manufacturers. that said, all of their stores are in NY, I'm in CT. They told me no matter where i buy it, i can do through the CT store, where I am. sales tax is nearly 3% higher in NY so that will save some $. they also may be interested in taking a trade in for my MTN bike. But also this place, and the Tri shop, these people seem like the type that you can build a relationship with. while i know they're all in this to make a living, i see the passion in them and that means a lot.

I will learn how to do some basic fixes, but soemthing to be said about having it done by a pro from time to time. first bike i'm giong to check out is the felt z95, maybe tomorrow. will use that as my bench mark and then go from there. i did hop on it briefly and it felt very comfortable.


----------



## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Learn how to fix a flat, maintain your drivetrain and adjust your shifters and derailleurs and you've got most of the day-to-day and common stuff covered. I wouldn't turn my nose up at someone who didn't really want to learn to repack his hub bearings.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

I intend to learn to do those basics, especially the tire! AAA or Allstate 24 horu roadside does not apply to bikes 

i went to another shop lastn ight, and took a BH Zaphire out for a quick spin. its a good baseline. i liked the ride, bumpy but that will take getting used to since i'm used to shocks on my MTN bike. the zaphire is slightly over my budget but we'll see if the guy is willing to work with me if i choose it. he sounded anxious to move out his 2012 inventory. Here is the bike
BH Zaphire Road Bike Review | Bicycling Magazine

this is another bike they carry but didnt have it my size. he said he is going to talk to the company and see if they have any more he could bring in, or if they have anything they want to part with.
Orbea Aqua T23 Road Bike Review | Bicycling Magazine

if i can sneak outta work a bit early today i'm giong to see if i can teset ride teh flet Z95 and at the other store, the trek1.1 and 1.2.

Crazy thing is i found this store online, but have been within 50 feet of it several times and never saw it. when i told him i wanted to trade in my MTN bike, he was lukewarm to it but did say this is a big time of year for 2nd market sales of MTN bikes and hybrids.... kids going to college, etc.


----------



## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

gskalt said:


> I intend to learn to do those basics, especially the tire! AAA or Allstate 24 horu roadside does not apply to bikes
> 
> i went to another shop lastn ight, and took a BH Zaphire out for a quick spin. its a good baseline. i liked the ride, bumpy but that will take getting used to since i'm used to shocks on my MTN bike. the zaphire is slightly over my budget but we'll see if the guy is willing to work with me if i choose it. he sounded anxious to move out his 2012 inventory. Here is the bike
> BH Zaphire Road Bike Review | Bicycling Magazine
> ...


That Zaphire uses Tiagra which is a pretty decent set of components. The Obrea uses Shimano 2300 components... Nothing wrong with them, but they are low end. My hybrid uses 2300 and its shifting is not great. For the road bikes, Sora and 2300 use a thumb lever to shift one way (down I think). This makes it hard to shift from the drops. May not be a big deal, but something you may want to keep in mind. It also has an 8 speed cassette, which with a double might make finding the perfect gear trickier. You will get a 10 speed with the Felt Z75, I actually considered this one for the gearing and price. But in doing some research on Microshift components, the reviews were not positive. Take that for what it is worth.

Which one you get is all about your goals. Is this just an experimental bike to see if you like it before upgrading? If so, any of them should be fine. Is this a bike you see yourself keeping for the long haul, if so it may be worth a few hundred now to get the better components.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

I am looking to ride and HOPE it will be something i stick with. upgrading? i dont know... what will be the signs i need to upgrade? i've mentioned for the shifting, that i probabaly wont notice a difference as i'm coming from a MTN bike. that's why i iniitally started thsi thread... trying to understand if i'm better off with better components OR cheaper bike with clipless pedals/shoes. what will i feel teh most beneifit from? I live around a LOT of hills, not much flat riding so the 16 gears may not offer me great flexibility. the sora shifters on the 2013 bikes have the integrated shifter, which makes a big improvement, and an opportunity to save some $. 

upgrading though.... i'd hate to see myself in a postion where in 2 years i need an upgrade, but also want to avoid spending more than i need, or need to get enjoyment from the bike. 

I'm gonig to see the Felt Z95 today, and maybe the trek 1.2. for the compoents on teh felt, i'll have to see what they are.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

gskalt said:


> I am looking to ride and HOPE it will be something i stick with. upgrading? i dont know... what will be the signs i need to upgrade? i've mentioned for the shifting, that i probabaly wont notice a difference as i'm coming from a MTN bike. that's why i iniitally started thsi thread... trying to understand if i'm better off with better components OR cheaper bike with clipless pedals/shoes. what will i feel teh most beneifit from? I live around a LOT of hills, not much flat riding so the 16 gears may not offer me great flexibility. the sora shifters on the 2013 bikes have the integrated shifter, which makes a big improvement, and an opportunity to save some $.
> 
> upgrading though.... i'd hate to see myself in a postion where in 2 years i need an upgrade, but also want to avoid spending more than i need, or need to get enjoyment from the bike.
> 
> I'm gonig to see the Felt Z95 today, and maybe the trek 1.2. for the compoents on teh felt, i'll have to see what they are.


IMO/E, the signs you need to upgrade (keyword, _need_), are that in some way, the bike isn't meeting your needs. Maybe a certain component didn't prove reliable or simply wore out and you were debating on moving up to the next level of replacement. In actuality, some 'fixes' aren't really upgrades, but changes. 

For example, if your fit didn't feel quite right, tweaks would be in order. Not an upgrade, but important to address to maintain both a riders comfort and efficiency. Gearing is another example. You want to get it right at time of purchase, but if you have a lot of hills, at some point you may want to consider lower gearing (12-30 or 12-32). Conversely, maybe you initially went with lower gearing and as fitness improved you decided to change to higher gearing... 12-28, perhaps.

Wheelsets are generally what gets upgraded the most, but (JMO) I think there's more _want_ than a genuine_ need_ to do so, but not always. 

I think if you're realistic in balancing perceived needs with your budget (as you seem to be doing), odds are good that you'll be successful in avoiding upgrades anytime 'soon'. 

BTW, just as a FYI, your example of 16 gears (possibly) not offering great flexibility may or may not hold true. If the gearing is well matched to your fitness/ terrain, 16-18 gear combos would suffice. Conversely, 24 ill matched gears may not. But generally speaking, triple cranksets will provide a little extra at the lower end, so more times than not, a safe bet.

Good catch that the new 2013 Sora went to dual lever shifters. It's still 9 speed, but if it functions anything like 9 speed Tiagra, I think it offers you some advantages. Something to keep in mind if/ when negotiating 2012 and 2013 pricing on Sora equipped bikes.

Lastly, rather than overwhelm yourself with decisions re: brands/ models/ component groups, LBS's and pedals, I think (for now) you should focus on visits to LBS's and test rides. Once you narrow the field of which bike(s) fit/ feel the best,_ then_ get more into component specs, leaving the pedal system for a later date.


----------



## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

Obrea has 2300 not Sora. Felt has Microshift. Zaphire has Tiagra. Personally I would buy better components and get the pedals later. From what I can tell 2300 still has the thumb lever in 2012 but am not 100%


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

I agree - need to focus on actual bikes and not write ups... So, I did just that.

Felt z95- I was hunched to far forward. Not sure if the seat was too high. But the LBS said its a more aggressive position. Not sure it was for me.
Trek 1.1 - rode nice. The shifter felt 'cheap' and the chain nearly fell off when I shifted the front set. I didn't mind the thumb thing, used to it from the mountain bike but it did seem like it could snap off. 
Trek 1.2 - same ride. Seems like it may be a bit smoother. It did feel better.
BH zaphire - liked it a lot. Most comfy ride but maybe that could have been the smoother road I tested it on. The treks and felt weren't the best conditions - potholed roads. Traffic.

Question- is hydro formed aluminum a real upgrade or is it a farce?

I might see if I can try a cannonade, Giant or specialized at othe LBS. just not sure I want to run all over the place. The 1.2 and BH are slightly above my budget and my decision might be based on if they will take a trade in on my MTN bike. Need riding shorts beyond my tri shorts too. 

This **** is 'spensive!!!


----------



## boggart (Aug 25, 2012)

2013 sora does not have the thumb shifters any more. FYI. Never mind. Just saw that someone said that already.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

boggart said:


> 2013 sora does not have the thumb shifters any more. FYI. Never mind. Just saw that someone said that already.


Yeah I should have been more clear. Was comparing the 2012 trek 1.1 and the 2013 trek 1.2. The shifter quality felt a LOT better. In fact I had to check to be sure the stuff was the same and sora was upgraded


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

gskalt said:


> I agree - need to focus on actual bikes and not write ups... So, I did just that.
> 
> *Felt z95- I was hunched to far forward*. Not sure if the seat was too high. But *the LBS said its a more aggressive position.* Not sure it was for me.
> Trek 1.1 - rode nice. The shifter felt 'cheap' and *the chain nearly fell off when I shifted the front set.* I didn't mind the thumb thing, used to it from the mountain bike but it did seem like it could snap off.
> ...


Some thoughts on the above...

The Felt either wasn't set up correctly for you or it wasn't your size, because the Z series actually has a more relaxed geo, so (contrary to your LBS's statement) is less aggressive than some other bikes. 

Re: the shifting quality of test bikes, IME it's best to not focus too much on that... at least not initially. Most bikes on the dealers floor aren't set up/ tuned to perfection, so thrown chains, skipped shifts and noisy drivetrains aren't all that uncommon. 

I'm not suggesting that you accept these conditions, rather, I'm saying that until the time comes for you to whittle the field and make a final determination, don't rule a bike out on this issue alone

Not doubting your perception that the (presumably) 2300 shifter had a cheap feel to it, but it's a proven groupset and should prove durable.

Re: the smooth ride on the BH versus the others, because of variances in tires/ pressures, it's very possible that one bike will seem to ride better than another. Best way to equalize that is to ask the shops to inflate the tires to a PSI consistent with your weight. Can't do much about varying road conditions, though.

Re: hydroformed aluminum, all that really means is that the tubing is shaped under high water pressure. IMO it's better to look for double or triple butted tubing, because weight is shaved from areas less stressed, resulting in a lighter (but still adequately stiff) frame.


----------



## gskalt (Aug 13, 2012)

The Felt is off the table anyway, it's too expensive. One reason I actually felt the 1.1 was easier to ride was because I didn't check the gearing on the front and it was on the small on. But when I started comparing it to the 1.2 in shifting around, I did like the 1.2. I actually prefer the 1.1 for the thumb shifter but it was more familiar. Once I got past that, I did prefer the 1.2. The Shop guy grabbed a scale and the weight diff in the two bikes was about 2 pounds. Could be the frame but also the wheel set was different. Looking back the 1.2 did seem a bit smoother. 

I'll have to make another trip down there to try them again before I decide. The BH would have to come down in price for me (950), 1.2 ($895),1.1 ($665).

Off to ride & run!


----------

