# Need for cable cap/ferrule on brake cable?



## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

I have a steel bike that routes the rear brake cable through two cable stops on the top tube (with uncased cable in between). I have a yearly issue with rust and corrosion on the rear stop, probably due to sweat. I was intending to clean out the rusty stop and re-paint. The cable cap or ferrule was apparently made from aluminum and had corroded to the point it was practically dissolved into the stop. When I finally got it out, sanded down the rust and repainted, I decided not to use a new ferrule since that made matters worse. Is there any reason I really need to use a cable ferrule on a brake cable?


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## Zen Cyclery (Mar 10, 2009)

Absolutely. If you use a brake cable without a ferrule, the soft casing on the housing will strip back causing the inner casing to pull through the stop. It will create alot more problems and will eventually lead to more corrosion. I would suggest getting some of the Jagwire casing that has plastic ferrules and sleeves for the exposed housing. It seems to do a decent job preventing corrosion. 

-Roland


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

Zen Cyclery said:


> Absolutely. If you use a brake cable without a ferrule, the soft casing on the housing will strip back causing the inner casing to pull through the stop. It will create alot more problems and will eventually lead to more corrosion. I would suggest getting some of the Jagwire casing that has plastic ferrules and sleeves for the exposed housing. It seems to do a decent job preventing corrosion.
> 
> -Roland


i've never ever seen a plastic ferrule for brake housing. i'm willing to bet they don't actually exist. OP...if they're getting corroded from sweat, that's telling you something. either wash your bike more often or replace the housing/ferrules/cables 1-2 times a year.


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## DaveT (Feb 12, 2004)

As others have said, use ferrules on the brake cable ends. What I do to prevent problems in that area is apply grease to the inside and outside of the ferrules before install.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

What also helps is to unseat the housing ends from he stops a few times a year and clean out the stops. In most cases, there's no need to unclamp the cable. Just create the slack needed for unseating by opening the brake quick-release and squeezing the brake pads against the rim with your hand.


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## DCash (Jun 20, 2012)

I use the Jagwire Racer coated cables with plastic end caps. Easy to install and shift smooth.


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## DaveG (Feb 4, 2004)

*thanks*



wim said:


> What also helps is to unseat the housing ends from he stops a few times a year and clean out the stops. In most cases, there's no need to unclamp the cable. Just create the slack needed for unseating by opening the brake quick-release and squeezing the brake pads against the rim with your hand.


I've done that before and it helps. In this case I just let it go too long. I should probbaly add it to my regular maintenance schedule. I had to remove the cable with a thin-blade screwdriver and a small mallet, it was stuck in there so hard


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## stevoo (Oct 26, 2011)

I believe that I have a bottle of plated brass brake housing ends. I have always used these without issue. If left totally neglected the plating can wear off and they can turn green in spots but have been pretty durable over the years.

For gear cable I use the plastic ferrules most places and they hold up reasonably well.

For the rear derailleur I machine stainless steel ones as the plasic ferrules can crack where it enters the rear D. Overkill but they work good.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

DCash said:


> I use the Jagwire Racer coated cables with plastic end caps. Easy to install and shift smooth.


all well and good but the OP's issue was w/ brake cable/housing. there are no plastic ferrules available for brake housing. we covered this a few posts ago. 



stevoo said:


> I believe that I have a bottle of plated brass brake housing ends. I have always used these without issue. If left totally neglected the plating can wear off and they can turn green in spots but have been pretty durable over the years.
> 
> For gear cable I use the plastic ferrules most places and they hold up reasonably well.
> 
> For the rear derailleur I machine *stainless steel ones* as the plasic ferrules can crack where it enters the rear D. Overkill but they work good.


you can buy alloy ferrules for 4mm shift housing, might be easier than making them


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## arnie2166 (Sep 16, 2012)

Hi,
I just want to throw these to anybody that got experience on Gore sealed low friction derailleur cables used on Sram red rear derailleur. Do you have any issues of stripping of the cables liner thus exposing the cables like the Sram X.0 rear derailleur in the MTB side. This issues were corrected by Gore by decreasing the liner cut from 3/8" to 1/4" or 19mm. I was about to install gore on my first road bike so I want you guys info and experience, please share those with me and thanks...


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