# 2012 Spesh Crux or Yeti ARC-X?



## Magsdad (Jun 29, 2005)

I have tried and tried to get a good feel for my Ridley but I think for my type of riding it is just a bit too top heavy. I am looking into a new frameset and wanted to know if anyone has experience with both of these framesets. I like the internal routing of the Crux, but have always had a soft spot for Yeti since my days in Durango. The differences in geometry boil down to a lower BB for the Yeti (3cm) and even lower for the Crux (7cm), angles are almost identical (the Crux has an extra 1/2 degree in HTA), and the Yeti would have the longest TT. I am 6'00" and would ride a lg in the Yeti, between a 56 and 58 in the Spec., and currently ride a 54 in the Ridley.

Any thoughts?


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## blantonator (Apr 25, 2007)

I've heard the yeti frame is really heavy. I've you're racing i'd lean towards the crux, plus I like low bb's.


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## tjanson (Nov 11, 2006)

Crux has a BB30 and a tapered head tube, Yeti does not. I think the tapered head tube is definitely an improvement for cross, especially if you are running cantis. BB30 is more of a mixed bag imo. BB30 is lighter, stiffer, but cranksets are more expensive and bottom brackets more difficult to replace.


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## Local Hero (Jul 8, 2010)

Competitive Cyclist has a Yeti frame for $700 and complete w/ rival for $1600. 

2011 Yeti ARC-X - Competitive Cyclist

2011 Yeti ARC-X/SRAM Rival Complete Bike - Competitive Cyclist


That said, I'm more interested in the Crux.


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## allison (Apr 19, 2006)

No experience with anything other than the CruX line. I raced the Pro Carbon last year and just got my Expert 2012 for this season. Loving it so far. Hubby's 54 was 18.4 out of the box (with the bell), no pedals. We may eventually put one of our road cranksets on there with a 36-46 spider and he ordered me my first set of alum tubulars. Can't wait to try those out for the season.

We've been doing some good rides on ours, and last Saturday climbed way too much with cross gearing, but it's been fun. I really like the geometry for riding/racing.

FWIW, he's 5'11 and has the 54, also had a 56 Felt road bike that seemed a bit too big, and rides 54's in Spec Tarmac bikes.

The Force stuff is pretty good no issues so far and loving the tires (Tracer) as well. The brakes also seem to be slightly better than what I had last year. I didn't have any issues descending a 12mi fire road at the end of a 65mi day (er, aside from exhaustion).


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## teoteoteo (Sep 8, 2002)

Yeti is a nice bike, get one fast once you decide, as I heard the Arc-X model is going away.


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## GonaSovereign (Sep 16, 2005)

The Yeti is certainly more interesting. What fork? Easton? The lower bb on the Specialized is a + for me, and the tapered headtube is probably a benefit. Bb30 whatever.


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## Reparto (Apr 25, 2007)

I would go with the Yeti. Traditional headset and BB. BB30 is a little  for cross. Unless you get your parts for free. You will go through a few bb30 bb's before one King threaded bb. Only issue with the Yeti is sizing. 4 sizes only.


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## atpjunkie (Mar 23, 2002)

*after all the nightmare*



tjanson said:


> Crux has a BB30 and a tapered head tube, Yeti does not. I think the tapered head tube is definitely an improvement for cross, especially if you are running cantis. BB30 is more of a mixed bag imo. BB30 is lighter, stiffer, but cranksets are more expensive and bottom brackets more difficult to replace.


stories I've heard about cross and BB30s why would that be considered as a plus at all?

the BBs die quick

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cyclocross/bb-30-bearings-cross-fail-235496.html

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/cyclocross/who-running-external-bb-their-cross-bike-236010.html


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## JeffS (Oct 3, 2006)

tjanson said:


> Crux has a BB30 and a tapered head tube



Pointless "features".

Clearly they help sell bikes, if the comments in this thread are any indication, but I challenge anyone to identify one of those parts from a blind test. Marketing hype and planned obsolescence. In a couple years, they'll drop the taper, increase the whole length and convince everyone yet again that bigger is better, as you start replacing your stem collection yet again.

I haven't really had a problem with BB30 with the cannondale bike/crank. On the specialized bike/crank though, it was a dirt magnet. I'm not sure what the difference was... crank design, dust seals, whatever, but given a choice, I would choose the standard BB every time. Just bought another CX9 frame as a backup and I will likely put in an adapter shell since I don't want to spend $700+ on a hollowgram crank and don't trust any of the other brands yet.


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## tjanson (Nov 11, 2006)

JeffS said:


> I haven't really had a problem with BB30 with the cannondale bike/crank. On the specialized bike/crank though, it was a dirt magnet. I'm not sure what the difference was... crank design, dust seals, whatever, but given a choice, I would choose the standard BB every time. Just bought another CX9 frame as a backup and I will likely put in an adapter shell since I don't want to spend $700+ on a hollowgram crank and don't trust any of the other brands yet.


SRAM Force BB30 - at $230ish new on ebay it's an ok deal. I trust SRAM components....

I opened up the bearing supplied in the SRAM kit before installing them in my frame. They had hardly any grease in them, and to top it off, it was just white lithium grease. So I packed them with marine grease. I'll see how it works out this season but I am hopeful with added grease.


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## tjanson (Nov 11, 2006)

atpjunkie said:


> stories I've heard about cross and BB30s why would that be considered as a plus at all?
> 
> the BBs die quick


Sounds like from those threads that BB30 wear is not much different from external cup BBs.
You can get new BB30 bearings for about $20-25, so it's comparable if not cheaper than replacing outboard bearings. So yeah, you could back date and run some Dura Ace square tapers for better bearing life....

After finding and remedying the lack of grease in the bearings in my SRAM kit, I am hopeful for their durability. We shall see how they hold up. I plan on pulling the crank every month at least to clean and replace the grease between the bearing and the bearing shield, which I think is an often overlooked part of the sealing system.

Anyhow, it's about what you want. Want a bombproof (only really for cartridge BBs) easy to service BB, and a shell that'll never get too loose to press fit in another bearing? Threaded. Want a light, allegedly stiffer bike? BB30. Want a Cannondale or Specialized? BB30....


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## Magsdad (Jun 29, 2005)

*Thanks to all so far!*

So, as a follow-up: I am trying to get the fit right on my Ridley Crossbow. Would the Yeti frameset be more of an upgrade, or am I really comparing apples to apples? The geo is slightly different and I am still leaning towards the Yeti, but is it worth all the work involved with selling the frameset and switching over?


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## daethon (Sep 1, 2011)

Looks like the CruX is the only bike this year with Disc Brakes. It looks like this might be flame bait, but what do you think?


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## ryanv09 (Jan 19, 2009)

I am assuming you are running canti's.....Like others said sizing is somewhat of an issue with the *Yeti* and it seems heavy as well. I like the idea of the tapered HT, but it somewhat limits your fork options if you are looking to change. The *Yeti* on the other side of the coin has some sweet graphics and traditional build (ie standard bb, external cable routing). I also like the *Yeti *because it is made in the USA...correct me if I am wrong.

The Specialized does have the tapered HT and may be lighter as well. The internal cable routing seems like a great idea on the Crux but may not be the easiest build especially in a cold, cross pit during an emergency! The Crux may also prove to be stiffer than the Yeti, but I have never ridden either. if it was me I would probably go with the Yeti, given that you can get the right size and such, also my $ is going to yeti vs the big red S. If I was gunning for the Crux I would pony up for the disc model and go down that road, even if it meant spending the extra $.


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