# Fixed gear chain cleaning



## Cerddwyr (Jul 26, 2004)

So, given that both the Shimano pin system and the Missing Link system officially want you to replace a part every time you break your chain, what are people doing for chain cleaning? I have a park cleaner, and it really doesn't work on a fixie. There is no derailer to put the retaining arm around, so I have to hold it with one hand and turn the cranks with the other, with little or no room because of the chain proximity to the chain stay, not much room for the cleaner and my hand because of short chain stays.
I would really like to pull the chain and clean it in a widemouth bottle full of citrus cleaner, maybe every two weeks, and may just admit I am buying pins more than I would like, but perhaps someone can suggest a cleaner that works on a fixie (something really short, shorter even than the pedro's) or a foolprrof way to remove and reuse a MissingLink?

Best,
Gordon


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## Bikehigh (Aug 2, 2004)

I use a a bucket, a hose, a scrub brush, a scrubber sponge, and a bottle of Dawn. Scrub, rinse repeat. Scrub, rinse, repeat. Scrub, rinse, repeat.


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## Jamieshankland (Jan 8, 2005)

Welcom to a Canada Cup in Quebec where all it does is rain on ya! Do it once and you learn how to clean a chain fast, on the bike.

Wash the whole bike at the same time, but pour or spray in a water soluble degreaser into it... scrub scrub scrub. Add some more sudds too it and the areas of the bike you spashed grime on, hit it with the hose and BAM! it shines! My secret weapon is "Fantasic" household cleaner, short of that pedros Bio cleaner. If you have not so well sealed hubs watch you dont blast water into them while spraying the cog.


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## Kram (Jan 28, 2004)

*2 WORDS; Simple Green*

Cleans anything and is all natural. Besides, my fixie chain really doesn't get THAT dirty.


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## czardonic (Jan 11, 2002)

*How about. . .*

. . .Remove the rear wheel and release the chain from the cog and then re-install the wheel. Then lift the chain off the chainwheel and over the crank. By this time your bike should be standing there with the chain hanging from the right chainstay. But your bottle of degreaser on the floor under the chain, feed the chain in and let it soak. Come back during the next commercial break run the chain through so the whole thing gets degreased. Repeat process with a bucket of water. Wipe down and re-install the chain on the drivetrain and re-lube.

I use SRAM chains and have had no issues re-closing the Power Links.


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## Cerddwyr (Jul 26, 2004)

czardonic said:


> . . .Remove the rear wheel and release the chain from the cog and then re-install the wheel. Then lift the chain off the chainwheel and over the crank. By this time your bike should be standing there with the chain hanging from the right chainstay. But your bottle of degreaser on the floor under the chain, feed the chain in and let it soak. Come back during the next commercial break run the chain through so the whole thing gets degreased. Repeat process with a bucket of water. Wipe down and re-install the chain on the drivetrain and re-lube.
> 
> I use SRAM chains and have had no issues re-closing the Power Links.


Too much time! 
I want to put the chain in a wide mouth bottle with degreaser, shake for 30 seconds (like I brush for 2 minutes), dry and replace.
But I am able to do the manual cleaning. Not a problem really, I was just hoping for an easy way to do a real good chain cleaning quickly.
Lazy me.

Gordon


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## czardonic (Jan 11, 2002)

*Easy way.*

Get some White Lightning Clean Streak. It comes in an aerosol can with a straw attatchment for precision application (like WD-40). It will dissolve the gunk off in a jiffy.


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## kennetht638 (Nov 2, 2004)

I can't believe nobody has mentioned this after 6 replies. If you're running a 3/32 chain, you can get an 8-speed SRAM powerlink to put in your Shimano chain. $3 and you can take your chain off anytime you want without replacing parts.


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## Jamieshankland (Jan 8, 2005)

czardonic said:


> Get some White Lightning Clean Streak. It comes in an aerosol can with a straw attatchment for precision application (like WD-40). It will dissolve the gunk off in a jiffy.



White lightning not only cleans your chain perfect, strips paint off of cars but will also clean your brain cells! hahaha


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## TommyApplehead (Mar 22, 2005)

kennetht638 said:


> I can't believe nobody has mentioned this after 6 replies. If you're running a 3/32 chain, you can get an 8-speed SRAM powerlink to put in your Shimano chain. $3 and you can take your chain off anytime you want without replacing parts.


You all need a powerlink. No kidding. Removes your chain easily, as simple as can be.


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## Gregory Taylor (Mar 29, 2002)

*Rock-n-Roll Gold Lube and a Rag*

The SRAM power links work great. It's the best option if you want to take the chain off and clean it.

I've had really good luck with Rock-n-Roll Lube (the "Gold" stuff). It's come to the closest so far to reaching that as-yet-unobtainable goal of being a self-cleaning lube. Sluice it on every hundred miles or so (one of the reasons that it cleans well is that, if you follow the instructions, you will wind up using a lot of lube) and wipe down with a rag. Hit it with a rag every once in a while between lube jobs to shine it up. Works great, stays very clean and, more importantly, it's a good lube.

Careful with the rag, however. I have a friend of a friend who lost part of a finger lubing his fixie. The bike was in a workstand, and he was spinning the wheel while wiping the chain with a rag, when the rag caught on something and pulled his fingers into the crank/chainring. No derailleur = no slack = munched finger. Soon thereafter, the bike tried to kill him a second time when the frame broke...


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## Spinfinity (Feb 3, 2004)

*See the Kerry Irons method on the Components board.*

A chain is a chain whether the gears are fixed or shifty. Kerry's method, posted frequently, gives your chain neither more nor less attention than it merits.


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## TrevorInSoCal (Mar 31, 2003)

*Is a new pin really necessary?*

I break chains using a chain tool all the time. Haven't had any problems yet (Now I've probably jinxed myself, and my chain will snap on the way to work tomorrow.) Whenever I clean my bike, which really isn't all that often, I break the chain and use the simple green martini method (shaken, not stirred) to clean my chain, before reinstalling it.

-Trevor


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## FixedPip (Feb 5, 2004)

*Pin replacement*

Replacement pins are generally suggested for all 8,9 and 10 Spd chains when you break them. For 7spd and below you can just break the chain the old fasion way though you can get replacement pins also for 7spd.

As Park Tool's website states:

"Modern chains are very narrow, and even a small amount of misalignment in rivet as it sits in the side plates could cause the chain to break under load." 
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml

You definitely either want to use a master link (SRAM) or replacement pins when you can.

For 1/8" width chains you can get away with breaking them the old fashioned way as they're burly enough. Also most chain manufactures for track width chains do not offer master links or replacement pins (some BMX chains though come with master links) so you will not have a choice.


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## Tig (Feb 9, 2004)

*Chain Cleaning*

First, I use SRAM chains on all my bikes, geared or fixed. An easy to remove and reinstall chain makes for much better cleaning than trying to use one of those useless chain cleaner contraption doo-dads.

*I see two different types of chain cleaning:*
The on the bike, quick clean. 
I do this once a week with a dry rag on all kinds of bike drive trains. Simply run the chain with the rag wrapped around it to knock off the excess buildup of crud. Keep cleaning until the rag doesn't collect anything significant. For derailleurs, clean the jockey wheels as well. I do this kind of cleaning before applying chain lube. If people did this more often, they would have longer lasting, cleaner drive trains.

The off the bike submergence cleaning.
I do this as needed, like after a nasty rain ride. Removing the chain is easier than trying to degrease it while it is on the bike. Degreasers can cause too much extra work if they seep into places they don't belong on the bike. 
I like to drop the chain in a solvent tank for about 5-10 minutes followed by a brush cleaning and a little solvent rinse. Run the chain through a rag to dry off the excess. Hang the chain up and let it drip dry, or speed up the drying with compressed air. The key to solvent cleaning, no matter what method, is to be sure _all of the solvent is completely gone before lubing_.


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