# Road trip on a Tri bike?



## drozzy (Apr 27, 2010)

So I am new to cycling and looking to get a road bike.
Currently looking at a Windsor royal:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/rwt_tri.htm#specs

My question is whether I can take it out on a longer trip (1 week) - with a tent on my back?
Or will it be a pain in the butt?


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Can you? Yes. Would it be absolutely miserable? Yes.

Let the bike carry the load, not your back (and hands, and butt).


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## drozzy (Apr 27, 2010)

Oh, you mean I can attach it over the back tire somehow?
Is it possible for a bike like that?


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## zhuber07 (Apr 27, 2010)

I am planning a cross-country bike trip and have been researching this quite a bit. From what I have seen, I would recommend a trailer with 2 wheels. Even one that is meant for kids to ride in would be fine, with 2 wheels it does not matter how you load it, but with only 1 wheel you have to load it evenly, or it pulls your bike and makes it harder to turn/ride.


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## Ranilus (Feb 26, 2010)

I don't think you can put racks on that frame.


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## waldo425 (Sep 22, 2008)

Ranilus said:


> I don't think you can put racks on that frame.


You can put a rack on anything --- whether or not you want to is a different story. I wouldn't want to do any touring on a tri bike. That would destroy someones back.


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

You want to be looking at touring bikes, not tri bikes.

Surly long haul trucker, maybe a Salsa Vaya, Jamis Aurora, Kona Sutra, etc, etc, etc. Something with racks/rack mounts and geometry designed to carry a load and be comfortable on day 5 and mile X00 to X,000

You can't (and shouldn't) put a rack on that bike. It wouldn't even make a particularly good unloaded road bike. Tri bikes are good for one thing and really one thing only and that's competing in Triathlons.

Clarification: You can't put a standard rack on that bike, it would require rack mounts. Using a seatpost mounted rack or other rack that wouldn't require rack mounts is not really an option for touring/tent and gear carrying. They aren't reliable enough and they don't have high enough weight ratings.


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## Jerry-rigged (Jul 24, 2009)

Tri bikes are designed to go fast, with little regard to comfort. IF you are planning on being on the bike for a week, comfort needs to be near the top of your priorety list.

For week long bike treks, there are much better bikes... from BD, check out - 
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

Steel frame (more comfortable that Al) wider tires (more comfortable) comes with a rear rack for that tent and stuff. If you really want the aero bars from the tri bike, they can be added.
Another, closer to the $$ of the Tri frame you posted - http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/mercier_corvus.htm 

I gotta ask - why would you want to use a Tri bike for touring?


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## WaynefromOrlando (Mar 3, 2010)

I read a blog written by a dad and his 2 daughters who rode from Oregon to Virginia on Windsor Tourists, so that bike would certainly be a decent choice for a long haul touring bike. I would certainly recommend a steel frame, tires meant for heavy loads and rough conditions, plus the best mounting systems for racks and paniers you can get.

Here is a link to the cross country blog:

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=61420&v=K7


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

I'll cut to the chase: A tri bike would be a very poor choice of bike for both someone new to biking and someone looking to take a long trip. Nevermind someone who's both.


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

Hank Stamper said:


> I'll cut to the chase: A tri bike would be a very poor choice of bike for both someone new to biking and someone looking to take a long trip. Nevermind someone who's both.


Makes you wonder why the OP would even consider a try bike...


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## drozzy (Apr 27, 2010)

Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.

Regarding why I am considering it - well it looks like a regular road bike and the price is better than some of the road bikes.

I don't want to get a touring bike because I would like to do 30-60km rides on it with a group, and I think I would want a lighter bike for that.

Have anyone biked on a tri bike for 100k or more than a few days?
Or how about a regular road bike?


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## BikeFixer (May 19, 2009)

drozzy said:


> Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
> Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.
> 
> .
> ...


Standard road bike would be the best choice.
Tri/Time Tiral bike has steeper geometry which makes for twitchier handling which would be no good for a touring type situation also they usually have beefier aero tubing which makes for a stiffer ride also no good for long tours they also usually have a lower steer tube to get you in an aero position Also bad for a longer ride
Standard road bike will work for your group rides and also be ok for a tour 
CycloCross type bike will also work for tour and is usually pretty ok for groupd rides as well
:idea:


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

drozzy said:


> Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
> Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.
> 
> Regarding why I am considering it - well it looks like a regular road bike and the price is better than some of the road bikes.
> ...


OK, here's the difference:

A tri bike is basically a time trial bike. it's designed to be fast in a straight line with very little consideration for comfort or for handling. They are designed to take very skinny tires and only skinny tires. They will handle quite badly loaded with racks, though they'd be adequate with a trailer. They are built light and fast, 2 things that do not equal reliability. And, they are geared high. You will probably never need a 53/11 on a tour, but there will be plenty of times where you'll wish you had something lower than a 39/21...

AND, tri bikes are LOUSY for group rides. They're designed for solo performance. THe sport they're designed for doesn't even allow bikes to be within a couple meters of each other unless they're passing. 

If you want to ignore everyone's advice and get it anyway, it's your ass. We could care less. BUT that doesn't change the fact that touring on a tri bike would be like towing a powerboat with a Lamborghini Galliardo. 

Do yourself a favor- get a bike that is at least a balance of what you need- you want something that will be good for shorter group rides and for multi-night tours, there are a few bikes that would fit that bill. 

A cyclocross bike with a triple crank might be a good choice if it had rack mounts. A Salsa Caseroll might be a good choice.


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## CougarTrek (May 5, 2008)

drozzy said:


> Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
> Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.


Um, no, we just weren't going to go into the gory details with a newbie that seemed so completely clueless. You could do a search and learn all about the differences from the people that do know them, but I guess you don't know how to use the search since you haven't yet demonstrated it  

Tri bikes in general have a completely different geometry from road bikes, whether they look the same or not. They have shorter relative top tube lengths to accommodate use of aerobars, much steeper angles in both the head and seat tubes, very aero body positioning, etc. They aren't comfortable. They are made to be fast and aero while saving your legs for the run somewhat. It's not the position of a road bike and it's in no way shape or form the position you want to be in for any sort of multi-day tour. They are also fast handling and "twitchy" due to the steep angles, short wheelbases, and focus on speed. They aren't a good idea for a beginner rider.

On top of that many groups will NOT allow you to ride with them on one. They are arguably dangerous in a paceline (drafting is illegal in Tri's). If the group will let you ride with them the aero bars are a no go in pacelines due to the dangers, so you get NO benefits from a Tri bike at all.


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## BikeFixer (May 19, 2009)

CougarTrek said:


> Um, no, we just weren't going to go into the gory details with a newbie that seemed so completely clueless.
> 
> 
> .


I was thinking that but I thought I'd try to be nice (it's REALLY hard to do some days lol):crazy:


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## drozzy (Apr 27, 2010)

Well thanks thanks.
Perhaps I'll not order the tri bike.
The thing is - it says that it is both a Road bike and a Tri bike on the website.

Is that possible?


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## waldo425 (Sep 22, 2008)

ph0enix said:


> Makes you wonder why the OP would even consider a try bike...


Aerodynamics


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## buck-50 (Sep 20, 2005)

drozzy said:


> Well thanks thanks.
> Perhaps I'll not order the tri bike.
> The thing is - it says that it is both a Road bike and a Tri bike on the website.
> 
> Is that possible?


 for about $250 more you could get a surly cross check complete.

It'll do everything you want and it will last you through the next ice age. 

Or if you wanna work with BD, they've got quite a range of cross bikes in or under your price range.


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## Hank Stamper (Sep 9, 2009)

drozzy said:


> Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
> Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.
> 
> Regarding why I am considering it - well it looks like a regular road bike and the price is better than some of the road bikes.
> ...


I'm not sure why you're making this out like it's our duty to convince you.

You asked for opinions, you got them. 

Do whatever you want with them.

If someone can spell the word bike they know enough to say a tri bike is a bad choice for long trips, new riders and group rides so the "if I keep asking I'm bound to find someone who says I'm right" technique probably won't cut it here either.


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## Alaska Mike (Sep 28, 2008)

The difference between a standard road bike and a TT/Tri bike is usually geometry- seat post angles are usually the most obvious difference.

To be honest, that bike looks like a standard road frame with clip on aerobars, although my eye isn't calibrated.

What concerns me about that setup for days in the saddle is it's an aluminum bike, which will likely be more tiring than a steel, titanium, or carbon bike. The vibration just eats away at you after awhile. I ride an aluminum bike, and I've done many sequential days of 50+ miles on it, so it's certainly possible. However, I usually had a good bed to sleep in every night to recover. In a touring situation, you usually don't have that luxury and so the sleep you get may not allow you to properly recover for the next day's effort.

This can be mitigated somewhat with heavily padded bar tape, padded gloves, carbon bars... but the point is that you're going to feel it. At least, I do.

The gearing might also be an issue if you're doing any sort of hills with any sort of weight.

As far as Bikes Direct bikes go, I find their sweet spot is really in the $1000-$2000 range. Lots of options in frames and componentry, so you can pretty much match your needs without having to make a lot of changes.

Just a thought.


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## Jerry-rigged (Jul 24, 2009)

drozzy said:


> Well since no one really knows the difference between a tri bike and a regular road bike.
> Everyone can just say they are "different" and how tri is made for triathalon.
> 
> Regarding why I am considering it - well it looks like a regular road bike and the price is better than some of the road bikes.
> ...


It would be much better to use a "touring" bike on 30-60km group rides, then it would to use a TT/Tri bike on a tour.

but you can get a bike that does good on both. Something like this:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/mercier_corvus.htm

Similer price to the TT you linked. Good steel (Renolds 520) vs aluminum mean less road buzz = less sore butt after a long day riding. Longer wheel base (vs the TT bike) + relaxed angles = bike will go track straight with less input from a tired rider. Can run 23mm tires for short ride days, or larger tires for long rides. Comes with brazons for racks, so you don't have to backpack your gear.

Also, this is not a "Special" bike - there are a plenty of sub $1000 bikes that will make great group ride bikes and great touring bikes.


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## jrz1 (Mar 15, 2006)

Okay, Drozzy, let me disagree with the others for a moment. I don't think the bike you are looking at can pull off the tri and road bike thing successfully. There are only two bikes that I know of that can pull that off and advertise themselves in that way: the Kestrel Talon and the Cervelo Soloist. Both have reversible seatposts in order to put you in the tri position and both are probably better road bikes than tri bikes, but can do both. If you are talking about one of those bikes I would disagree with the comments before me and say that you certainly could take either of those bikes on a multiple day tour and not be beaten up. That is if you put the seatpost in the road position and have road, not aero, bars equipped on the bike.

If the bike you are thinking about is truly a tri specific bike and not one of the two mentioned above I would encourage you to look at another bike. That is not to say a tri specific bike can't be turned into a great roadbike, it can, but only if you know that your riding style fits that kind of conversion. As a newbie you don't have enough miles in to know that yet. And a great road bike is not necessarily the same as a great touring bike, which is what you want to use it for. Again, though, I would say that it is possible to turn 
SOME tri bikes into a great road bike.

I give myself as an example. After many years of riding I decided I was going to put together my dream road bike. Four priorities were at the top of my wish list: I wanted it to be aero, I wanted it to be light, I wanted it to be stiff, and I wanted a seatpost angle that was slightly more aggresive (forward) than most. The last requirement was because of years of riding and analysis of my most efficient riding position had revealed that I was constantly finding myself riding with my butt moved forward toward the nose of my saddle. After alot of research I settled on the Guru Geneo. Right before I pulled the trigger on the purchase of that frame I saw Guru's tri version of that bike, the Crono. I fell in love. It was even more aero than the Geneo and was just as light. I read all the reviews on it I could find and they kept saying things about how comfortable it was for a tri bike and how well it handled and climbed for a tri bike. It seemed like many of the traditional flaws that kept tri bikes from being good on the road were absent with this bike. When an amazing deal on a new Guru Crono frame came up on ebay I decided to take the gamble and buy it to turn it into a road bike. Well, after over 2000 miles, several century rides, multiple club rides, etc I can say that the bike is a dream. Faster than any road bike I have owned or ridden, equal in handling (not overly twitchy), light (13.9 lbs!! with pedals), stiff and a great climber. Only negative is that it is not as comfortable as some other carbon framed road bikes. Not to say that it is overly harsh. About equal to one of my aluminum framed road bikes. At any-rate what I learned is that sometimes outside the box thinking works!!


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## ph0enix (Aug 12, 2009)

waldo425 said:


> Aerodynamics


I had a gut feeling it wasn't that....


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## drozzy (Apr 27, 2010)

Hehe, that's funny 
You know - I bet you're an expert at everything!


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## MattGent (May 22, 2009)

No geometry is listed so its hard to say if that bike actually has tri-bike geometry, or whether it would work for anyone at all. Only the "sizing guide" is available on the site. I'd email them for geometry and compare it to something that is comfortable for you.


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