# Cable adjusters for Look 565/Campy setup?



## mwestray (Jan 4, 2008)

I purchased a 2006 565 (NOS) earlier this year which, like most Look frames (I believe), does not have barrel adjusters on the downtube cable stops. I'd really like to have an accessible cable adjuster for on-the-fly adjustments of the RD (it's a PITA to dismount, tweak the adjuster on the RD, remount, ride, repeat...). Is there anything that will fit the cable stop on the downtube or is my only option to install an in-line adjuster?


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## rcarbs (Feb 10, 2004)

I had the same problem with my 585. I finally decided that I didn't need an adjuster and ran the cable through the frame mount. It worked out for me because I have never had to adjust it on the fly. (Good Campy stuff )


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## mwestray (Jan 4, 2008)

Yes indeed, Campy stuff is good. But when you change cables, or maybe even cassettes, I think you'll find that getting the cable tension dialed in for perfect shifting requires some trial and error under actual riding conditions, which is made much easier with a cable adjuster on the frame that can be manipulated while riding. Otherwise it's ride, stop, dismount, tweak RD adjuster, remount, rinse, repeat. I've gotten my setup working nicely now with that method, but I wish there was an adjuster for the RD cable on the frame. I may buy a Jagwire adjuster to see if it will fit on downtube cable stop of my 565. If someone out there has found a solution, I'd like to know about it!


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## rcarbs (Feb 10, 2004)

I went to Campyonly.com and asked Tim about 1st time setup on Campy derailleurs. He sent me instructions that I have used for 3 years. Every time it works and I don't have to re-adjust. Initially I thought I would have to adjust on the fly but after his method I never have to touch it. Maybe just luck.


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## mwestray (Jan 4, 2008)

Can you send me the instructions? I generally follow the campy instructions, or the Lennard Zinn method, or the mwestray method, or some combination of the 3, and I eventually get where I need to be, but I'd be interested in taking a look at the Tim technique!


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## awiner (Aug 28, 2007)

I'd love to read the instructions as well. Please post them here or PM me. Thanks !


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## ChristianB (Jul 27, 2004)

These instructions should be freeware! No seriously, if a copy is available, please let me know.


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## rcarbs (Feb 10, 2004)

The
installation of the rear derailleur to the bike is sort of easy. A few seconds with a 5mm wrench will do the trick. Before you screw the derailleur onto the bike you should do a couple of things. If this is a new installation, unscrew the so called B adjustment screw nearly all the way out. This is the screw pointing toward the back (which pitches the derailleur body clockwise around the derailleur mounting bolt) of the bike when the derailleur is mounted to the frame. This is normally where it is set from the factory anyway. I usually put a little anti-seize paste on the mounting bolt before I screw it in. The next thing to do is mount the chain. Before you attach the cable to the derailleur, adjust the lower limit screw. With the chain on the small cog in the back and the small ring up front, adjust the lower limit screw (screw it in), until the chain just starts making noise like it wants to jump up to the next bigger cog. At this point back of
(unscrew) the lower
limit screw half a turn. Now you can attach the derailleur cable. Be careful when you attach the cable to the derailleur that you mount it under the pinch bolt correctly. The derailleur cable routes under the pinch bolt and wraps around to point to the front of the bike. If you put the cable over the top of the pinch bolt so the cable points down toward the ground you did it wrong.
There is a little channel for the cable to lay in, on the derailleur that should help with this. Routing the cable incorrectly changes the geometry of the derailleur so it shifts badly. When you route the cable and attach it, make sure you have the shifter shifted all the way down. Press the mouse ear down until you are sure no shifts down shifts are left. Turn the rear derailleur adjustment bolt all the way into the derailleur body. If you are using Ergo levers, you want to make sure the down tube adjuster is screwed in all the way and then back it out one full turn. Now attach the cable to the pinch bolt, while trying to pull out most of the slack. Remove the rest of the slack with the adjuster bolt on the rear derailleur. You unscrew the adjuster from the derailleur body until it begins to sound like the derailleur wants to up-shift to the next bigger cog, and then screw it back in 1/2 of a turn. Half is usually enough. At this point you should be able to shift the bike with the shifter, but be careful. The upper limit screw has not been set.
A bad mechanic will sometimes not check the upper limit screw and the derailleur will over shift into the spokes for a few hundred dollar problem.
You want to shift the derailleur up the cogs until it either gets to the biggest cog or you hit the upper limit screw. If you hit the limit screw, it may prevent you from going all the way up the cassette. Back off (unscrew) the limit screw until you can just shift into the biggest cog, but the limit screw does not make it difficult to do so. 
This is a matter of feel. Shift down the cassette and back up to the big cog a few times to get the feel. You want the last (biggest cog shift) be feel the rest. Just don't allow the upper limit screw to be so loose that you can shift into the spokes. If you were able to shift all the way up to the big cog on the first shot you need to screw in the upper limit screw until it wants to stop. This will set the upper limit at the point the derailleur is, when it is on the biggest cog. Shift the chain down a cog and back up and check the feel. It might be a bit tight and you may need to back off the upper limit screw so you can up shift to the big cog easily.
Which ever way
you adjusted to get here you now need to check one more thing.
Shift the
derailleur onto the biggest cog and then try to shift it (with some
force)
into the spokes. You need to make sure a panic shift will not take the derailleur into the spokes. This is usually catastrophic for you and the rest of the group behind you. This is the full adjustment procedure. You may want to take the bike out and ride it a little so you can play with the down tube adjuster to get the exact feel you want. Some people like the bike to up shift faster than it down shifts or vise versa. This will all be a matter of feel for you. The down tube adjuster will allow you on the fly tweeks until you get what you like. The B tension screw adjustment is not used for this adjustment.
The B tension screw is only a factor in the chain length and is covered in the chain setup.


I purchased the video "box to bike" from him and it worked great but I had a question regarding the derailleur and that was his reply. I dd like his video and it really helped me through my first two bike builds.


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