# Want to buy my first road bike



## JG317 (Jul 22, 2012)

Hello all, I am new to road biking, I have been mountain biker for a couple of years. I am 17. I have a 2012 Specialized HardRock I just got. I have done a few 5.5 mile sprints on this bike averaging 18.5 mph. And a couple of 7-10 mile ride averaging 16.5 mph. My question is would I see much of a difference if I were to buy a $300 bike from bikesdirect.com? Or should I just wait and save up for a nicer road bike.


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## Shynloco (Jul 20, 2012)

JG317,
I have little to no experience in mountain biking but enjoy street and tour riding for both exercise and health issues. And I'm TONS olders than you having just gone on SS. But over 8 years ago, I took up biking and love doing it. I was given a nice Mountain Bike by a relative and had it worked by a bike shop. Since then, I've been riding 5 - 6 days a week on various courses that I've laid out and usually ride 12 - 13 miles daily on that Mountain Bike, and thats on the clock with a goal of 53 - 55 minutes. Recently I visited a local bike shop that has been around since the early 70's and struck up a conversation with the owner who has loads of experience in riding, bikes and the technical aspect of bicycling in general. In fact, he spoke for about 30 minutes (before the shop got busy) and I leanred a ton of things on issues I never even considered when it comes to finding the right bike for the right purpose and having it set up specifically for you so you can best attain your goals in cycling. If I might suggest, do some investigating and studying before you buy even a $300 bike. I believe bikedirect is a great supplier with excellent customer service, not to mention great pricing on their products. But there is so much more in finding the right bike other than pricing alone. Consider whether you need or want an aluminum frame or a carbon fiber frame that provides you with more comfort and saves on the back. Trust me on the back issues. The older you get, the nicer you want to treat your back. And frankly, you are nowhere near your age developmental potential in cycling. In short, give serious consideration and thought before just going out and buying a "$300" bike (possible worth twice that amount from bikesdirect.com). Consider saving up and buying one of their $1,000 bikes that is worth $1800. And thats for starters. Just some things to consider as sometimes age and time is on your side so you don't have to keep buying over and over again to reach your goals. Good luck whichever way you go.


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## JG317 (Jul 22, 2012)

Thank you very much for the reply. I will definitely think more and research it more. Thanks again.


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## NJBiker72 (Jul 9, 2011)

JG317 said:


> Hello all, I am new to road biking, I have been mountain biker for a couple of years. I am 17. I have a 2012 Specialized HardRock I just got. I have done a few 5.5 mile sprints on this bike averaging 18.5 mph. And a couple of 7-10 mile ride averaging 16.5 mph. My question is would I see much of a difference if I were to buy a $300 bike from bikesdirect.com? Or should I just wait and save up for a nicer road bike.


Save. Realistically 800-1000 for a decent entry level road bike.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JG317 said:


> Hello all, I am new to road biking, I have been mountain biker for a couple of years. I am 17. I have a 2012 Specialized HardRock I just got. I have done a few 5.5 mile sprints on this bike averaging 18.5 mph. And a couple of 7-10 mile ride averaging 16.5 mph. My question is would I see much of a difference if I were to buy a $300 bike from bikesdirect.com? Or should I just wait and save up for a nicer road bike.


Just curious where you got your Specialized. New, from a bike shop? If so, you were sized/ fitted to it, and as important as that is on a mtn bike, it's equally important on a road bike.

Point being, when the time comes for you to get your first road bike, visit some LBS's, discuss your price range, intended uses/ goals, cycling experiences, get sized/ fitted to a few bikes of interest and head out on the roads for test rides. Focus on fit/ feel, ride and handling, whittling the field from there.

BD (and other online offerings) are fine for those not requiring sizing/ fit assistance - or the myriad of other services LBS's offer (final assembly, tuning, warranty assistance, if needed), but for the uninitiated, I suggest buying local.


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## crudad (Jul 18, 2012)

PJ352 said:


> Just curious where you got your Specialized. New, from a bike shop? If so, you were sized/ fitted to it, and as important as that is on a mtn bike, it's equally important on a road bike.
> 
> Point being, when the time comes for you to get your first road bike, visit some LBS's, discuss your price range, intended uses/ goals, cycling experiences, get sized/ fitted to a few bikes of interest and head out on the roads for test rides. Focus on fit/ feel, ride and handling, whittling the field from there.
> 
> BD (and other online offerings) are fine for those not requiring sizing/ fit assistance - or the myriad of other services LBS's offer (final assembly, tuning, warranty assistance, if needed), but for the uninitiated, I suggest buying local.


Agree with this viewpoint. While the price tags look great from BikesDirect, the value in buying local comes in the details. For example, I just purchased a bike local (shoes, pedals, etc.). Went out for a ride and my toes went numb. Instead of dinking around with this and that (probably making things worse) I went back to my LBS and they immediately made a couple adjustments on my cleats and it is much better. Then they are also throwing in a fitting for 1/2 price. Would have been free if my bike was over $1,000. 

I also get free tune-ups for when things stretch out from riding (cables, chains, etc) for a year.


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## Therealkyle (Jul 23, 2012)

I'd reccomend trying to test ride one of the giant defy series. I've got one. They ride well and are reasonable priced.


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## JG317 (Jul 22, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies. I will be more patient to find the right bike.


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## JG317 (Jul 22, 2012)

Oh, and I did get my MTb from my LBS


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## JG317 (Jul 22, 2012)

And I wi check out the giant defy. Sorry for all the posts


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## tednugent (Apr 26, 2010)

A $300 bikesdirect bike isn't really that good... may be good for a commuter bike... another $100 gets you a starter bike with a 8-speed/triple with a carbon fork.

then you'll need to pay a shop some money for truing the wheels...an initial tune-up if you cannot handle it yourself, a fitting, etc.... when it's all said and done, you could have paid a little more and get a full service treatment for something like a Specialized Allez Compact (or if you're lucky... a leftover)

Noobs need to go to a local bike shop.... it helps maximize your experience with your first road bike... plus... shoes & pedals would be discounted as well and other accessories.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Anthonytn8 said:


> Hey man if you're looking for a first bike I have what you're looking for. It's a small frame if that fits you. It's a 2011 Scott cr1 comp with ultehra shifters, deore derailers and a 105 crank. The bike is full carbon as well as the forks and seat post. I bought it at the beginning I last year and never got around to riding it so it is in brand new condition. I'm looking tiger around 1400. If you are interested text or call me at 3172582447. The bike is ready to ship to where ever.
> 
> Anthony


Found your ad:
2011 Scott cr1 comp

For several reasons, seems suspect to me. You 'upgraded' but never rode the bike? Also, Deore components are hardly an upgrade from the OE 105 components. 

And, the bike MSRP'd for $1799. Looking to get $1400 three model years later, you're _way_ overpriced. 
BikePedia - 2011 Scott CR1 Comp Complete Bicycle


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## JoePAz (Jul 20, 2012)

JG317 said:


> Hello all, I am new to road biking, I have been mountain biker for a couple of years. I am 17. I have a 2012 Specialized HardRock I just got. I have done a few 5.5 mile sprints on this bike averaging 18.5 mph. And a couple of 7-10 mile ride averaging 16.5 mph. My question is would I see much of a difference if I were to buy a $300 bike from bikesdirect.com? Or should I just wait and save up for a nicer road bike.


I come from Mtn Biking as well. What do you intend to do with the bike?

I picked up a road bike for few reasons. Week day training rides typically about a hour in length, the occasional triathaon here and there, and for something different. My prirmary riding is still Mtn bike and I did not want drop big $$$ on something I may not ride that much. I also did not want to a really cheap entry level bike either since I am used to my XT drive train on my Mtb bike. 

My solution was to look for used bike as I could not get the same level of buy new. I picked up early 2000's Trek 5200. Scored a carbon frame and 9 spd ultegra group for $500. I am really happy with it as it is a good quality bike so I can ride it hard and I did not spend big money on it so if I ends up colleting dust no big loss. I still have not evaluated my full plans for the bike. So far I have been doing couple days a week evening rides and will be using in a sprint tri in december. No long rides yet, but I probably will do one later this month or in december. 

When it comes to a difference between a new 300 bike and used higher end bike. 
Weight and drivetrain. My carbon bike is 18.6lbs. My 26" hardtail is 24lbs. Some of these cheaper road bikes feel about 22-24lbs. Ok for starters, but if you ride a lighter XC mtn bike that is really heavy for a road bike. The weight difference between my road and mtn consierable. The other issue is drivetrain. I am used to the shifting quality of Shimano XT components. A $300 new bike will have pretty basic components. Again if you were new to biking you may not notice the differene, but if take too many steps down from the mtn bike you will feel it. 

These two factors maybe enough for you to not like the road bike and think it is dog. In fact a good rode bike is easly 3-5 mph faster than a lighter XC hardtail standard mtn bike tires. 

The other alternative is for $300 to get another set of wheels, cassette and slick tires for the mtn bike and swap them out. It won't be as fast as road bike, but if you are only riding 10 mile at time... 

BTW... Wedensday I did a 16 mile loop at 20.1 mph avg with stops a lights and after short spool down did a pre-ride of my triathalon loop (4.2 miles at 21.1 mph). Ride was not all flat either as I had about 900 ft of climbing. The road bike is just so much faster. Peak speed was 33 mph and low point was 10 mph on short, but steep climb. A more gradual climbs can be taken at 17-18 mph. That is about my top speed on my mtn bike on level ground.


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## ParadigmDawg (Aug 2, 2012)

JoePAz said:


> I come from Mtn Biking as well. What do you intend to do with the bike?
> 
> I picked up a road bike for few reasons. Week day training rides typically about a hour in length, the occasional triathaon here and there, and for something different. My prirmary riding is still Mtn bike and I did not want drop big $$$ on something I may not ride that much. I also did not want to a really cheap entry level bike either since I am used to my XT drive train on my Mtb bike.
> 
> ...


I agree, try to find a decent used bike but make sure it fits properly.

I am also a mountain biker and added a road bike into the mix to increase my fitness and also have something to ride when the trail are wet. I'll be damned if road biking isn't addicting and I ride it a lot more than I thought I would.

If you are of normal stature, it's pretty easy to find a good used road bike. I bought mine from a fellow mountain biker who purchased it 2008 and rode it twice. It still had all the safety stickers and reflectors on it and it looked brand new.



















I slapped some good wheels and an Ultegra 2x10 crank on it and it's a pretty darn good bike. 18 lbs and it seems pretty stiff.










My MTB is 23 lbs on the dot.










It's amazing how much faster a road bike is on the street. 2 pedal strokes and you are at 15 mph and boy do the corner.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Anthonytn8 said:


> I just never had time to ride the bike. I put up the money expecting to have the bike for a while. I'm a full time student and I work full time. When I bought the bike it didn't have 105 it had a tiagra component set. The bike sat in my room collecting dust for 2 years. The upgraded parts came from my brother who switched from shimano to shram 4rce. Obviously I listed the bike at that price expecting to haggle. The same year I got the bike I was involved in a car accident. That's the main reason I never rode it because I was out of work for a while and had to pick up a second job in top of my already full schedule. I'd really like to get around $1100 for the bike. It is in brand new condition. The rubber has never touched the road.


Sorry about the car accident. I hope you're fully recovered.

Points taken re: the components, and you may never have ridden the bike, but the fact remains that the Deore components now installed aren't upgrades (over 105 OR Tiagra) and the bike is two model years old. Those things matter to most knowledgeable buyers. 

Re: your street (or selling) price, since used bike prices vary by region and supply/ demand can influence them, you may get it.. or a little less.. or a little more. IMO/E to a large extent, it all hinges on timing and luck.


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## codex57 (Nov 14, 2012)

Road bikes are a pretty drastic difference from mtn bikes. I've been on mtn bikes my whole life. Recently got a hybrid cuz I'm older and it seems riding on pavement is more what I can handle/am into. Did you try different bikes before you got your HardRock? I noticed vast differences in the different brands. If you have tried different bikes, you know what I mean and why online can be kind of a crapshoot for a newb.

I really wouldn't go with a $300 BD bike. Well, for a first time road biker, I prolly wouldn't get a BD bike unless you spent a ton of time trying out road bikes at LBS's. And when you do, BD bikes seem to need to get about the $500+ to be at a component level where it even begins to be worth it to sacrifice the LBS advantages. More like $800-1,000 really as a PP said. That's BD prices. A LBS comparable bike will be at least a couple hundred more for something comparable (if not more). But, you have to take into consideration things like paying for fit, assembly, etc. I'm a little handy but not that handy. No, I won't wrench on my own car altho I can change my own oil (but not worth the mess to me). I've seen the vids. I'll pass on doing it myself. From another thread, the Jenson USA bikes come in a state that I could consider doing myself.


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## tottenham21 (Nov 8, 2011)

IMO realistically speaking he may be able to get 750 to 850 for that bike but $1,400 is very steep..good luck though.


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## jfd986 (Jul 17, 2011)

I searched high and low and found a road bike from an LBS for 580. I didn't expect to do that in Canada, but in the US if you visit a few LBSs and are okay with buying light steel (a KHS flite 220 type bike) or aluminum with carbon fork (a Fuji Newest 3.0 , the bike I almost bought) , you should come in at around 600 on the bike itself. It HAS to FIT.

Everyone else has valid points regarding getting a nice bike with such and such components and carbon etc. , but I don't subscribe to these viewpoints because I have no money. Everything I have spent on this hobby has been borrowed from my parents, and keeping the bottom line low was the most important thing for me. My first bike was a $40 Fuji Monterey from 1983 (maybe) and it was cheap but it required a LOT of maintenance, as everyone on here will tell you. Luckily I managed to sell it off for apparently way more than its worth, and paid off all the add-ons.

My second bike is a new 2009 (10? 11? Does anybody know? There's a picture on here somewhere) Louis Garneau Exalt. Everything's generic, the frame is all-aluminum, the shifters are microshift (which I actually like in concept and in feel a lot more than moving the brake lever to shift the bike, but I won't argue that it probably has its own issues) and the bike is heavy. Probably around 25 or 26 lbs. I figure hey, if I wanna be faster, I'll ride more, I'll spin better, and I'll drop more weight off ME. I've put 522 miles on it in the last two months, and I have no major complaints. I've also ate well, and lost about 15 pounds.


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## flatsix911 (Jun 28, 2009)

If you want to go with BD I would spend a bit more get and a nice ride ... :thumbsup:

*Shimano Microshift 18 Speed 2012 GTR Series 4 $599*
Double Shimano Microshift, Carbon Fork, Butted AL Frame, Aluminum Wheels
Save up to 60% off GT Road Bikes, GTR 2012 Series 4 road specific road bikes


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

If I were going to buy a bike from BikesDirect, it would be one of their house brands. I have a GT hybrid so am nit knocking the brand, but if you are going to pay more for a brand name there are better places than BikesDirect. If you buy fron them I'd go with the Motobecane, Gravity, Mercier, Windsor, Dawes lines.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

flatsix911 said:


> *Shimano Microshift 18 Speed 2012 GTR Series 4 $599*
> *Double Shimano Microshift*...


This being the beginner's forum, just to clarify, stating *Shimano Microshift* may mislead one to thinking Shimano makes Microshift, which they do not. Microshift does.

In their ad, BD uses the slash to separate the two *Double Shimano /Microshift*. Their intent being questionable, but their use of the separator preferable to your omission, IMO.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

GT used Sora derailluers and cassettes with Microshift shifters on the 2012 GTR 4. Thus, the slash. Mixed group.

FWIW, the GTR frame is probably better than anything on a BD house brand for under $500. The weak link in the package is the Alex wheels. You're going to get crap wheels on any $500< bike, though.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mpre53 said:


> GT used Sora derailluers and cassettes with Microshift shifters on the 2012 GTR 4. Thus, the slash. Mixed group.


The _only_ Shimano component on the bike in question is the Sora RD, so (as stated), my opinion is that BD's format and intent is questionable, but preferable to flatsix's.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

mpre53 said:


> FWIW, the GTR frame is probably better than anything on a BD house brand for under $500. The weak link in the package is the Alex wheels. You're going to get crap wheels on any $500< bike, though.


Assuming you are responding to me, I think you missed my point. I agree the GT bike is probably better than the lesser expensive BikesDirect house brands. You are also saying to compare a $600 bikes to the BD house brand bikes under $500. Even if comparing two similar bikes at similar prices, I also agree the Fuji and GT bikes they sell are better than their house brand.

My point was if you are going to spend $600 and get a name brand, I think there are better places than BikesDirect to do so. In my opinion, you buy from BikesDirect, which will be very difficult to return if it doesn't fit and you cannot try in advance, because you want to get the most possible bike for the least possible price. That means you want to spend less than you could elsewhere. Its the same reason I don't buy from Ebay if the cost is similar to what I could pay from a real store. Now I guess you could find a LBS that sells GT, try out one in the GTR line and then buy from BikesDirect, but the savings isn't that good on a name brand from them vs. the value you get from the LBS. In my opinion there are several bikes from Performance, Dick's Sporting Goods, REI, etc. in the $600+- range that would be comparable specs plus they will assemble and fit for you if you want name brand.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> The _only_ Shimano component on the bike in question is the Sora RD, so (as stated), my opinion is that BD's format and intent is questionable, but preferable to flatsix's.


BD lists different specs than GT listed in their 2012 catalog, it seems.  I didn't check the link. I'm pretty sure that their catalog spec-ed Sora FD and cassette, in addition to the RD. And Alex wheels instead of Jalco, with 32 spokes F and R. No stainless spokes. I actually like their package better than what was in the catalog. I've been trying to find their 2012 online catalog, but every Google link takes me to the 2013 one. Their packages changed this year. One change is that they're putting 25 mm Vittoria tires on instead of 23 mm Schwalbe Luganos.

I have the 5 series, and it has 2300 F and R, with a Sun Race cassette. The only things Microshift are the shifters.


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## mpre53 (Oct 25, 2011)

gte105u said:


> Assuming you are responding to me, I think you missed my point. I agree the GT bike is probably better than the lesser expensive BikesDirect house brands. You are also saying to compare a $600 bikes to the BD house brand bikes under $500. Even if comparing two similar bikes at similar prices, I also agree the Fuji and GT bikes they sell are better than their house brand.
> 
> My point was if you are going to spend $600 and get a name brand, I think there are better places than BikesDirect to do so. In my opinion, you buy from BikesDirect, which will be very difficult to return if it doesn't fit and you cannot try in advance, because you want to get the most possible bike for the least possible price. That means you want to spend less than you could elsewhere. Its the same reason I don't buy from Ebay if the cost is similar to what I could pay from a real store. Now I guess you could find a LBS that sells GT, try out one in the GTR line and then buy from BikesDirect, but the savings isn't that good on a name brand from them vs. the value you get from the LBS. In my opinion there are several bikes from Performance, Dick's Sporting Goods, REI, etc. in the $600+- range that would be comparable specs plus they will assemble and fit for you if you want name brand.


Yeah. And you're right. If he wanted to go with GT, he could probably get a leftover 2012 for around that same $600 price from a LBS. Assembled and adjusted. A GT dealer can access their warehouse/distributor via computer and find out what's available. My local guy sells GT, and as of Saturday, they had some 2012 stock available over their road line. For example, he could get their lowest level carbon frame (full 105 drivetrain) which had a ~$2500 MSRP for around $1600.

And in any event, it looks like they have nothing over 55 cm frames at BD.


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## gte105u (Aug 12, 2012)

mpre53 said:


> BD lists different specs than GT listed in their 2012 catalog, it seems.  I didn't check the link. I'm pretty sure that their catalog spec-ed Sora FD and cassette, in addition to the RD. And Alex wheels instead of Jalco, with 32 spokes F and R. No stainless spokes. I actually like their package better than what was in the catalog. I've been trying to find their 2012 online catalog, but every Google link takes me to the 2013 one. Their packages changed this year. One change is that they're putting 25 mm Vittoria tires on instead of 23 mm Schwalbe Luganos.
> 
> I have the 5 series, and it has 2300 F and R, with a Sun Race cassette. The only things Microshift are the shifters.


Looks like the BD is actually a 2013. From the specs off GT's website, it matches up. Interesting that the XL is a 55 cm, but goes to show it all varies by manufacturer. Their 55 cm has an effective top tube of 57.5 cm from the geo chart. It actually would probably be a good fit for me as I am long in the upper and short in the legs. I really like my GT hybrid. If there had been a GT dealer close to me, I probably would have looked at them when I was looking at my new bike a couple months ago. But for a first time buyer especially, while this looks like a solid buy I think there are better places to get a GT bike from than Bikes Direct. The gamble on size, assembly, fitting, and tuning are not worth it IMO for a first time buyer when you could probably pay $100-$150 more from a local source for the exact same thing. Now a more seasoned rider maybe... but I don't see them buying a bike of this level unless it is a bad weather/commuter or for someone else.

-EDIT- And I see from your response to my other post you are in the same mindset...


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