# first road bike questions



## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

Im not new to bikes but i am to road bikes so i had a few questions.

I'm 6'1" tall with shoes, 31 1/2" inseam without contact, 204.3 lbs and dropping.

I am looking at road bikes for non competitive riding. I enjoy bike riding but my old mountain bike never cut it on street use. So i am looking at a road bike for personal paved surface riding with the intent some day doing the local 150 bike ride which is 150 miles from start to finish then another 150 to get back home. So I am researching what will fit my needs. I have increased my spending limit from $200 on up to $300, picked out four bikes and can't deside.

1. Is it possible to upgrade a bicycles cassette from say 6 speed to an 8 speed?
Reason I ask this is I found a bike with shimano components but its a 14 speed.

2. What is better for street use for my application, a 24 speed or 14 speed?

3. What shifter location better, one mounted on the down tube or one mounted on the handle bar stem?

4. I am looking at the dawes lightning dt with 24 speeds, but its sunrace gears which I could swap for shimano gear sets if the sun race down tube shifters will work with shimano gear sets. Likewise I was put onto the dawes lightning sport al which has all shaman parts but is only a 14 speed which has me thinking it wouldn't suit me too well. What bike between these two be better for my applications?

Thanks in advance.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Given your budget, I suggest perusing CL (or similar used bike resources) in your area for a bike that (as close as possible) suites your needs 'as is'. Once you start upgrading/ swapping parts, you'll likely exceed the cost of the complete bike and probably won't be done with the conversion. 

Some cities/ towns have bike rescue's where people donate bikes and assorted components and volunteers piece them together to be sold at a minimal cost. Something else to check into.


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## minutemaidman (Jun 14, 2010)

Its not hard to scrape together $700-$800. Do yourself a favor and save it up and find a nice used bike designed for what you want to do in that price range. You will thank yourself many times over.


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## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> Given your budget, I suggest perusing CL (or similar used bike resources) in your area for a bike that (as close as possible) suites your needs 'as is'. Once you start upgrading/ swapping parts, you'll likely exceed the cost of the complete bike and probably won't be done with the conversion.
> 
> Some cities/ towns have bike rescue's where people donate bikes and assorted components and volunteers piece them together to be sold at a minimal cost. Something else to check into.


I have been checking CL almost every day, all I keep finding in my area for sale as far as road bikes goes are used bikes in the $800+ range. I have yet to see one on craigslist used for under $800 in my area. I have also checked with my local bike shops and everything I could find was $600 or more.

I understand that piecing together assorted components to upgrade could quickly pass the cost of the bike over all. That is why I started contemplating the same priced bike with all shimano gear sets and shifters and just upgrading the rear cassette for one with a couple extra gears to up it from 14 gears to 24 gears if 24 gears is preferable for road use. If I got the 8 spd cassette from shimano to replace the shimano 7 spd cassette on the sport I was looking at then I would gain a few extra gears and only spent $30 for the cassette.

I just need opinions and recomendations on how many gears I should be looking at for my application among other things.



minutemaidman said:


> Its not hard to scrape together $700-$800. Do yourself a favor and save it up and find a nice used bike designed for what you want to do in that price range. You will thank yourself many times over.


Actually it is for me at the moment. With the economy the way it is I cant justify spending such a large sum for a road bike when I never had one before. The two bikes I am looking at from bikes direct thought have MSRP`s of $695 and $795 so I think I am looking at quality bikes just not too sure about sunrace gears, I know my mountian bike has some plain gears and I put over 3,000 miles on it and still have it with the orignal chain and gears and never did anything but replaced one tube. So for me a road bike will be a big upgrade to me, just not sure what I really need. I know what would want but not sure if its needed. For instance do I really need a 24spd road bike or would a 14spd road bike be enough. I know my 18 spd mountain bike I never used all the gears, I only used 2 or 3 different cassette gears and never changed the crank gear. Like wise I am questioning myself if I really need Shimano gear sets and shifters. I do know the shifters on the model with Sunrace gear sets are mounted on the down tube which I am not too sure how easy that would be to shift on the move and the Shimano is on the steering stem.

I do value your recomendation of waiting and saving up for a more expensive bike. Who knows I might end up raising my price limit, I was looking at no more than $200 but once I found Bikes Direct I raised my limit to $300 so who knows maybe I will feel comfortable with spending $400 or $500 down the road. Would rather get the bike sooner than later since I need to get back riding again.


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## Wbraun88 (May 11, 2011)

I recently was in a situation similar to yours. After graduating college I was buying myself a present and decided that to stay in shape I wanted to get into road biking. My original budget was set at a solid $800. After literally 5-6 months of research and skimming Craigslist posts state-wide, I realized that the bike that I wanted was going to cost closer to $1200, and including the price of other accessories (helmet, lock, shoes, pedals, pump, tools, and flat repair supplies) my limit almost doubled to $1500. 

Looking back, I'm incredibly happy I took the time to research and save up more money because had I bought a bike that cost $800, I would've outgrown it in less than a month. I certainly made the right decision (and likely saved myself a lot of money from the process of upgrading components/bikes) to wait and increase my budget to the bike that I knew I wanted. 

Long story short, tbh with you $300-$400 will not buy you much. I would strongly recommend scraping together more money (preferably near $800) and begin the long search on Craigslist to find a solid used bike. Also keep in mind that helmets/locks/accesories/flat repair kits cost money as well. 

Hope that helps...


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## Peanya (Jun 12, 2008)

Long torso, short legs. You'd be fitted to a 58cm bike typically, but standover would be very tight. 
I recommend patience and keeping to CL and ebay as well. But, you can get a basic bike for now, and if you love riding it, then upgrade later. 
Now if you live in Houston, I can get you a nice Raleigh 56cm for $200...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Rusty_S85 said:


> I have been checking CL almost every day, all I keep finding in my area for sale as far as road bikes goes are used bikes in the $800+ range. I have yet to see one on craigslist used for under $800 in my area. I have also checked with my local bike shops and everything I could find was $600 or more.
> 
> I understand that piecing together assorted components to upgrade could quickly pass the cost of the bike over all. That is why I started contemplating the same priced bike with all shimano gear sets and shifters and just upgrading the rear cassette for one with a couple extra gears to up it from 14 gears to 24 gears if 24 gears is preferable for road use. If I got the 8 spd cassette from shimano to replace the shimano 7 spd cassette on the sport I was looking at then I would gain a few extra gears and only spent $30 for the cassette.
> 
> I just need opinions and recomendations on how many gears I should be looking at for my application among other things.


I agree that success (or frustration) with CL is dictated in large part by region. In my area, for every 25 MTB's there are one or two road bikes, and they aren't gems. Unfortunately, given your stated budget, your options are limited. 

Regarding your upgrading question (again), I advise caution. Upgrading a 7 spd freehub (or worse, freewheel) isn't as easy as installing an 8 spd cassette, because unless you're running friction shifters, you'll need to upgrade those (at minimum) as well. 

Also, I think you're agonizing over shifter placement and number of gears too much. Given your price range, if you ever want to get a bike and get out on the road, you'll have to be a little more flexible on the specs, but (very important) make sure the bike fits. In the long run, that'll matter more than a couple of extra gears, especially on those 150+ mile rides. 

Lastly, I'm confused on your injecting two BD bikes into the convo, considering your budget is ~$400 less than either bike.


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## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> I agree that success (or frustration) with CL is dictated in large part by region. In my area, for every 25 MTB's there are one or two road bikes, and they aren't gems. Unfortunately, given your stated budget, your options are limited.
> 
> Regarding your upgrading question (again), I advise caution. Upgrading a 7 spd freehub (or worse, freewheel) isn't as easy as installing an 8 spd cassette, because unless you're running friction shifters, you'll need to upgrade those (at minimum) as well.
> 
> ...


That is how I view CL, I check it daily for many things and when it comes to road bikes all I find are old used products that cost as much as a new one.

That is what I mean about upgrading, I wasnt fully sure if its a straight bolt in or if it requires changing more than one item out. I prefer not to upgrade which is the reason why I am looking at the shimano equipped model but I dont know what would be better for street use. I guess I am trying to say that I am looking into which one would be better for street use, a 14 spd or a 24 spd. I know the number of gears dont matter and I shouldnt be limiting myself to what gear something has. I just dont want to end up with a product that isnt too road friendly cause it doesnt have the right gearing for a wide ranges of road "types".

Yes the two BD bikes I injected into the conversation are two I am looking at they are both priced at $299.99 but the MSRP from the manufactuer states the 14 spd sport model is supposed to sell for $695 and the DT model with 24 speeds for $795. These two fit into my price range and based off the MSRP I feel they would have to be better quality than the one I was orignally looking at which was the GMC Denali for $149.99 and the Victory Vision for $174.99. I just dont know out of those two what to be looking for. I know sizing is very important, and I know what I am looking for the device to do is important also. But mountainbikes are different than road bikes and I am at a loss on picking out what I need and what I dont need. Im sure I dont need 24 speeds but I am not confident on what is exactly needed on a road bike.



Peanya said:


> Long torso, short legs. You'd be fitted to a 58cm bike typically, but standover would be very tight.
> I recommend patience and keeping to CL and ebay as well. But, you can get a basic bike for now, and if you love riding it, then upgrade later.
> Now if you live in Houston, I can get you a nice Raleigh 56cm for $200...


58cm? You sure about that? Seems alittle tall in my opinion. From the weeks of reading ive been doing I came to the conclusion I should be looking for 54cm or 55cm bike. Maybe I am looking at this all wrong on size. Need to get measurements so I can start looking at the top tube length.

I agree, Ive been taking my time reading and searching instead of jumping on the first buy I come across. That is how I was thinking was start off with one of these I am looking at and then keep note of the good and bad for them and let that influence my next purchase, just dont want to end up spending a large sum of money and not liking it.



Wbraun88 said:


> I recently was in a situation similar to yours. After graduating college I was buying myself a present and decided that to stay in shape I wanted to get into road biking. My original budget was set at a solid $800. After literally 5-6 months of research and skimming Craigslist posts state-wide, I realized that the bike that I wanted was going to cost closer to $1200, and including the price of other accessories (helmet, lock, shoes, pedals, pump, tools, and flat repair supplies) my limit almost doubled to $1500.
> 
> Looking back, I'm incredibly happy I took the time to research and save up more money because had I bought a bike that cost $800, I would've outgrown it in less than a month. I certainly made the right decision (and likely saved myself a lot of money from the process of upgrading components/bikes) to wait and increase my budget to the bike that I knew I wanted.
> 
> ...


I agree, but I just dont think its smart for me to jump in feet first and have my first road bike purchase to be close to $1,000, I think it would be smarter for me to get a starter road bike to see what I like and dislike about the first one then upgrade down the road. But who knows, I was only looking at bikes $200 and less and now I am looking at up to $300 from bikes direct. Maybe I will increase my spending some more as time goes on. I just dont need a full blown racing bike I know that much. Need something I can ride around on paved bike paths and on the streets and be comfortable enough to maybe go 300 miles without requiring major maintaince. The only event I would consider getting into isnt a race but just a trip that alot of people that I heard about going didnt even go the full 150 miles but stop around 100 miles

I appreciate all the replies and the opinions and recomendations that has been posted so far. Might sound like I am not listening or weighing what is being said but I am.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Rusty_S85 said:


> That is what I mean about upgrading, I wasnt fully sure if its a straight bolt in or if it requires changing more than one item out. I prefer not to upgrade which is the reason why I am looking at the shimano equipped model but I dont know what would be better for street use. I guess I am trying to say that I am looking into which one would be better for street use, a 14 spd or a 24 spd. I know the number of gears dont matter and I shouldnt be limiting myself to what gear something has. I just dont want to end up with a product that isnt too road friendly cause it doesnt have the right gearing for a wide ranges of road "types".
> 
> Yes the two BD bikes I injected into the conversation are two I am looking at they are both priced at $299.99 but the MSRP from the manufactuer states the 14 spd sport model is supposed to sell for $695 and the DT model with 24 speeds for $795. These two fit into my price range and based off the MSRP I feel they would have to be better quality than the one I was orignally looking at which was the GMC Denali for $149.99 and the Victory Vision for $174.99. I just dont know out of those two what to be looking for. I know sizing is very important, and I know what I am looking for the device to do is important also. But mountainbikes are different than road bikes and I am at a loss on picking out what I need and what I dont need. Im sure I dont need 24 speeds but I am not confident on what is exactly needed on a road bike.


Re: your gearing quandary... the primary criteria used to choose gearing is rider fitness and terrain/ conditions they ride in, not so much the type of bike. There are road bikes with standard double cranksets, compacts and triples, mated to cogs ranging from 11T to 32T, so as you can see, the range is quite broad. IMO/E as long as gearing is a good match for the rider, the number of speeds is of secondary importance.

I stand corrected on the BD bike pricing. At $300, if you're careful with sizing, one of these might be a viable option, but you'll have to look into your sizing requirements before ordering.

Which leads into...


Rusty_S85 said:


> 58cm? You sure about that? Seems a little tall in my opinion. From the weeks of reading ive been doing I came to the conclusion I should be looking for 54cm or 55cm bike. Maybe I am looking at this all wrong on size. Need to get measurements so I can start looking at the top tube length.


While it's near impossible to size someone sight unseen via the internet based only on height and inseam, I agree that (very generally speaking) a 58cm is probably too large for you. 54 to 56 are good starting points, but (as we both stated) you need to get a better idea of your sizing requirements (reach being a good start). If you decide to pursue one of the BD bikes, let us know and we'll advice on some ways you can better your odds of getting sizing right.


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## bigdlv (Jul 7, 2011)

I am in the same situation as you wanting a road bike or less then $300. I looked at BD was looking at a windsor but found the Vilano Tuono on roadbikesoutlet.com. It's pricetag is just$279 and fit my needs. The components are low grade but are much better then what I am using now. I am hoping for at least a years use before I need to upgrade. I also want to try my hand at learning some bike maintenance skills. I've been tinkering with my mtb. The Tuono has a 7 gear freewheel and a total of 21 gears. I'm expecting the bike by monday and can't wait to take it to the road. I am hoping that the bike along with clippless pedals and cycling shoes will increase my average speed. Good luck and have fun.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

OP - I know where you're coming from. The cost of entry to this sport can look pretty prohibitive if you let yourself get caught up in what some of the new components can do. And, I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy them myself - I bought my bikes at times when I had a little more flexibility with my money, and maintaining a nice bike is a lot easier than buying it.

I almost always also have a cheap bike - the one I ride to work, leave locked outside, etc. My current cheap bike cost me $95 and has a 2x6 drivetrain. I've had to put some more money into it over time, of course - things wear out, and I wanted lower gearing. If it fit me better, this bike would be a viable option for training and distance rides - it goes, stops, shifts, and I count on it to do that consistently. Not a very high standard, but even with all the gear to be impressed by, this is still an endurance sport.

In answer to your questions...

1. Yes, but it's not worth it. The frame and hub spacing are different, and the way that the cogs attach to the wheel is different. In order to do that change, you'd need to replace your rear wheel, freewheel, chain, and shifter, and get your frame respaced. However, QBP still carries two Shimano 6-speed freewheels, even the cheaper one is actually quite nice, and if you have the right gear ratios for you, you don't need that many.

2. For road bikes, people tend to separate the number of chain rings and number of cogs. So you'd describe a 24-speed drivetrain as a 3x8 drivetrain, and a 14-speed drivetrain as a 2x7. 7-speed freewheels are a bad idea for a heavier rider or one who rides hard. 7-speed cassettes are probably fine, but they're uncommon and one standard only existed briefly and could make it difficult for you to replace the cassette. I wouldn't want to deal with a 7-speed drivetrain, honestly - I'd skip straight from 6- to 8-. But I've never had a strong incentive to learn the details of 7-speed well enough to make a good decision; YMMV. Anyway, I don't know you or your riding environment. I have a triple crank on my nicer road bike and a compact double on my lock-outside bike. I like the triple better, but am open to the possibility that I'd like the compact double more if it was on a bike with a cassette that had small cogs. Honestly, I don't think that 53-39 cranks are a realistic choice for non-competitive riders living in places with hills.

3. Down tube. You don't necessarily get a choice, though. It's also relatively easy to put them on the ends of the handle bars.

4. You'd probably find yourself replacing a lot of axles if you bought the Dawes Lightning Sport. You're going to have a little trouble finding a bike that fits you, and if you're planning to ride 150 miles, you really need it to fit. Make some phone calls - see if any of your local bike shops carry used or consignment bikes, or if they've got some '10 or even '09 bikes still taking up space. IMO, the best way to stretch a dollar is to leverage someone else's.


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## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> OP - I know where you're coming from. The cost of entry to this sport can look pretty prohibitive if you let yourself get caught up in what some of the new components can do. And, I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy them myself - I bought my bikes at times when I had a little more flexibility with my money, and maintaining a nice bike is a lot easier than buying it.
> 
> I almost always also have a cheap bike - the one I ride to work, leave locked outside, etc. My current cheap bike cost me $95 and has a 2x6 drivetrain. I've had to put some more money into it over time, of course - things wear out, and I wanted lower gearing. If it fit me better, this bike would be a viable option for training and distance rides - it goes, stops, shifts, and I count on it to do that consistently. Not a very high standard, but even with all the gear to be impressed by, this is still an endurance sport.
> 
> ...




I have always had a cheap bike, that is I guess why I feel more comfortable at looking at lower priced ones. Think its because Ive never had any issues with the cheaper bikes Ive had which I did ride hard and ride often. I just know my mountain bike being an 18 speed (8x3 drive train if I remember right) was a pig when it came to street driving on hilly roads. I know that there will be some hills and inclined roads I will be hitting so I am trying to keep that into consideration. With the mountain bike I have only way I could really get up the hill was to put the crank in the smaller gear and the rear gear in the smallest and even then I wasnt making much progress up the hill without tiring myself out. Trying to avoid this if possible on my next buy.

On the two I was looking at the most and I dont know much about the gearing but the Lightning DT that I keep going back to is a 3x8 drivetrain with 30/42/52T chain rings and the rear gear is 12-24T, I am not good at this "ratio" conversion like I am when it comes to meshed gears. Im used to 1:1 or 2.40:1 not teeth number so would have to do math to figure out what the lowest and highest ratios are. On the Sport AL its as you said a 2x7 drivetrain with the crank gear being 52/39T and rear gearing of 14/16/18/20/22/24/28T. Thinking about this it appears that the Lightning DT has closer gear ratios than the Pro but I dont think I would ever use the 28T ring on the rear.

Doing math to put the gears into a formula I know, I come up with the following. Might not be correct but at the moment I think it is.

Lightning DT
30T x 12T = 2.4:1
42T x 12T = 3.5:1
52T x 12T = 4.3:1

30T x 24T = 1.3:1
42T x 24T = 1.8:1
52T x 24T = 2.2:1

Lightning Pro 
39T x 14T = 2.8:1
52T x 14T = 3.7:1

39T x 28T = 1.4:1
52T x 28T = 1.9:1

Comparing these two this way has enlightened me. I can go with the pro which has name brand shimano parts which means I only have a "speedy" gear ratios of 2.8:1 up to 3.7:1 and a "low" easy to turn gearing of 1.4:1 to 1.9:1, or I could go with the Lightning DT which will give me more gear ratios than the Pro meaning as I "grow" and become better the Lightning Pro would quickly need to be replaced and the DT would provide me with slightly more growing room than the Pro.

So far I would have to give the Lightning DT an advantage over the Pro since it will give me an extra crank gear to move up to when I build up the muscles to use those gears.

So I agree with you, a 7 gear rear gear wouldnt be for me. Being in low gear I cant break 2:1 with the 7 gear one but I can with the 8 gear model.



The riding enviroment is alittle hard to describe. I will be riding on the street as well as on paved bike trails that we have in my area that is near the street. Both of which will have inclines and declines and if I go on that 150 mile ride one way there will be hilly roads for sure.

Good to know, Ive been wondering how it would be to have to reach down to the downtube to shift. Given the shifters on the downtube have detents so it should be easy to find the gears. But moving them to the ends of the handle bars would work as well.

Yes, I am very concerned with fitment. I have been calling a few places getting information and recomendations. So far Ive been doing most of the work myself, I have how ever been seriouslly contemplating having a local bike shop fit me but got to let them know I am planning on buying online. I have been looking how ever at the Large frame Lightning DT from bikes direct which has a 32.5" standover heigth which should be fine for me height wise. I how ever dont know about seat to pedal heigth wise or reach wise. Thankfully I am not in a major rush so I am doing my research before I spend the money.


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## koalakid (Jul 30, 2011)

Hi I'm new to this site, I am a present moutain biker, looking to start road biking I know ive been told to go by how i feel on the bike but to me they all feel close to the same just a matter of adjustment 
my question or delema is which bike to choose since i dont have much experience on road racing heres the the list of bikes I narrowed it down, if anybody has any advice or i should stay away from a certain brand of bike or my best bang for the buck remember all component are basicly the same shimano 105 shifters ,rims ,tire ect. all comp. bikes list RIDLEY ORION $ 2150.00 
SCOTT CR1 COMP $ 2250.00
OPUS ANDANTE $ 1949.00
TREK MADONE SERIE 3.1 $2150.00
K H S FLITE 720 $ 1500.00
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SOLO CR 50 $ 1800.00 2010 model
thanks to everyone that will help


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

Rusty_S85 said:


> I have always had a cheap bike, that is I guess why I feel more comfortable at looking at lower priced ones. Think its because Ive never had any issues with the cheaper bikes Ive had which I did ride hard and ride often. I just know my mountain bike being an 18 speed (8x3 drive train if I remember right) was a pig when it came to street driving on hilly roads. I know that there will be some hills and inclined roads I will be hitting so I am trying to keep that into consideration. With the mountain bike I have only way I could really get up the hill was to put the crank in the smaller gear and the rear gear in the smallest and even then I wasnt making much progress up the hill without tiring myself out. Trying to avoid this if possible on my next buy.
> 
> On the two I was looking at the most and I dont know much about the gearing but the Lightning DT that I keep going back to is a 3x8 drivetrain with 30/42/52T chain rings and the rear gear is 12-24T, I am not good at this "ratio" conversion like I am when it comes to meshed gears. Im used to 1:1 or 2.40:1 not teeth number so would have to do math to figure out what the lowest and highest ratios are. On the Sport AL its as you said a 2x7 drivetrain with the crank gear being 52/39T and rear gearing of 14/16/18/20/22/24/28T. Thinking about this it appears that the Lightning DT has closer gear ratios than the Pro but I dont think I would ever use the 28T ring on the rear.
> 
> ...


It's not the gears or the price tag that make your MTB slow on climbs. The biggest things you can do to make mountain bikes faster on the road are to make them fit you right for road riding, IME a different setup than right for mountain biking, and to put slick tires on. Then, unless you're enough of a monster to spin out 4:1 on a climb, it's you. I prefer drop bars to flat bars when I'm riding on the road, but I actually don't think it makes much difference on climbs, especially since I have bar ends on my MTB to give me a riding position much like the hoods position, with a little more leverage, for climbing. On my road bike, I often climb with my hands on the flat part of the handlebars anyway, if I'm in the saddle. So, yes I prefer road bikes for road riding, no I don't think they do anything to make me magically faster. But MTB tires suck on the road. FYI, you can put a lot of different cassettes and freewheels on bikes and they're relatively inexpensive. Changing the gearing on a crank may require replacing the whole thing, so it can be a lot pricier.

The high gear ratio on the pro will be more than enough for you unless you start training with racers. Or, it would be more than enough for me when I'm not pacelining with faster riders than myself. I like to keep a pretty high cadence.

IMO, you're picking the least important aspect of bike frame geometry to worry about. You're not buying the bike to stand over - you're buying it to ride. As long as a bike isn't wildly wrong for the purpose for which someone buys it, there's a lot of vertical adjustability in the saddle and handlebars and it should be more than enough to get those aspects of fitting right. There's a lot less flexibility in the horizontal distance from the crank to the handlebars, and going to the extremes of that dimension screws up handling. Unfortunately, it's not a dimension like height, which most people already know, or inseam, which is relatively easy to measure. You basically need to use your body as the measuring stick, which is where buying locally and doing test rides comes in.

koalakid - did you ride them? Which was your favorite? If you can't tell a difference, just buy the KHS and spend the rest of the money on race fees.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Rusty_S85 said:


> I have always had a cheap bike, that is I guess why I feel more comfortable at looking at lower priced ones. Think its because Ive never had any issues with the cheaper bikes Ive had which I did ride hard and ride often. I just know my mountain bike being an 18 speed (8x3 drive train if I remember right) was a pig when it came to street driving on hilly roads. I know that there will be some hills and inclined roads I will be hitting so I am trying to keep that into consideration. With the mountain bike I have only way I could really get up the hill was to put the crank in the smaller gear and the rear gear in the smallest and even then I wasnt making much progress up the hill without tiring myself out. Trying to avoid this if possible on my next buy.
> 
> On the two I was looking at the most and I dont know much about the gearing but the Lightning DT that I keep going back to is a 3x8 drivetrain with 30/42/52T chain rings and the rear gear is 12-24T, I am not good at this "ratio" conversion like I am when it comes to meshed gears. Im used to 1:1 or 2.40:1 not teeth number so would have to do math to figure out what the lowest and highest ratios are. On the Sport AL its as you said a 2x7 drivetrain with the crank gear being 52/39T and rear gearing of 14/16/18/20/22/24/28T. Thinking about this it appears that the Lightning DT has closer gear ratios than the Pro but I dont think I would ever use the 28T ring on the rear.
> 
> ...


IMO you're dealing in minutia here. Consider your fitness and terrain in selecting low end gearing (focusing on either a compact or triple will get you 1/2 way there) and a 7 speed rear isn't going to dictate that you walk up a climb nor will an 8 speed dictate you'll fly up it. The motor does that. And if it turns out you low balled what you needed at the rear, you can always cob job a cassette using pieces of others. Not a large financial outlay.

More info here:
http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#hubs
Specifically, Shimano Freehub Cassettes Systems (and copies)

Re:fit, from what you've offered, I suggest you forget the do it yourself approach and pay a reputable LBS ~$50 for a standard fitting. I provided the details of how to go about that in an earlier post. It's an admirable trait to want to research and gain knowledge, but it's also important to understand ones limitations at a point in time and depend on someone more knowledgeable for guidance. IME no other facet of cycling trumps the importance of getting sizng/ fit right, and the closer you get to optimal, the happier you're apt to be.


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## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

PJ352 said:


> IMO you're dealing in minutia here. Consider your fitness and terrain in selecting low end gearing (focusing on either a compact or triple will get you 1/2 way there) and a 7 speed rear isn't going to dictate that you walk up a climb nor will an 8 speed dictate you'll fly up it. The motor does that. And if it turns out you low balled what you needed at the rear, you can always cob job a cassette using pieces of others. Not a large financial outlay.
> 
> Specifically, Shimano Freehub Cassettes Systems (and copies)
> 
> Re:fit, from what you've offered, I suggest you forget the do it yourself approach and pay a reputable LBS ~$50 for a standard fitting. I provided the details of how to go about that in an earlier post. It's an admirable trait to want to research and gain knowledge, but it's also important to understand ones limitations at a point in time and depend on someone more knowledgeable for guidance. IME no other facet of cycling trumps the importance of getting sizng/ fit right, and the closer you get to optimal, the happier you're apt to be.


I will be checking with a local shop for sizing. i just dont want to rely on justsomeone else, i have been burned before being told something wouldnt work like i thought and i was right. I do seek other opinions which helps me greatly and I seek help/advice from businesses as well.

I also was looking at a slightly more expensive one as well its very similar to the dt but costs about fifty to sixty more. It's the mercier galaxy al dc2 model on bd. I'm at the point of finding a local shop and going the fitting route. I'm at the point I can't further finalize the frame size decision. Ill make a decision on the model last.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Rusty_S85 said:


> I will be checking with a local shop for sizing. i just dont want to rely on justsomeone else, i have been burned before being told something wouldnt work like i thought and i was right. I do seek other opinions which helps me greatly and I seek help/advice from businesses as well.
> 
> I also was looking at a slightly more expensive one as well its very similar to the dt but costs about fifty to sixty more. It's the mercier galaxy al dc2 model on bd. I'm at the point of finding a local shop and going the fitting route. I'm at the point I can't further finalize the frame size decision. Ill make a decision on the model last.


Points taken, and (as mentioned) I think your taking a proactive role in this process is admirable... and wise. I'm analytical as well, and have learned not to blindly follow anyone's advice. 

Once you've completed the LBS fit process, using the test bikes geo numbers as a baseline, I think you'll have a better idea of what your fit requirements are and what geo will accommodate them. I anticipate a number of posts with questions relating to that process, but that's what forums are for. 

Good luck, and let us know how it all goes....


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## Rusty_S85 (Jul 27, 2011)

I'll be sure to do that. I've been checking reviews on local shops to find a good one. Got to make the best of a slow day at work.


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## koalakid (Jul 30, 2011)

hi still looking for help on bike selection from my question earlier on the better bang for my dollar 
opus andante $ 1949.00
trek madone serie 3.1 $2150.00
ridley orion $2150.00
scott cr1 comp $2299.00
khs flite 720. $1499.00 
rocky mountain solo cr $1800.00 2010 model 
any of those i should stay away from due to cheap frame or cheap wheels 
help if you can 
thanks


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

At the risk of being "that guy..."


AndrwSwitch said:


> If you can't tell a difference, just buy the KHS and spend the rest of the money on race fees.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

koalakid said:


> hi still looking for help on bike selection from my question earlier on the better bang for my dollar
> opus andante $ 1949.00
> trek madone serie 3.1 $2150.00
> ridley orion $2150.00
> ...


The KHS only comes in 4 sizes, so if you can't tell a difference between it and some of the other bikes, your sizing requirements either fall in one of those 4 sizes or you really aren't able to discern fit. That would make you either lucky or treading into a chancy area, because as you build some saddle time, you could find that the bike doesn't fit very well.

Because (I think) you need some guidance on fit, my advice is to place a little more emphasis on the LBS's. Revisit them, discuss your concerns and take the bikes out for longer test rides - out on the roads and preferably back to back, then decide based on which shops/ fitters instill the most confidence _along with _the bike that you like best.


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