# Starting out questions



## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

I finally picked up my new roadbike (first roadbike) this week: a leftover Cannondale Synapse Tiagra and finally got a decent ride in this morning.

I've got a few questions (pardon my beginner-ness):

The LBS advised me to pump the tires prior to every ride. I checked and the rear, after sitting for 3 days, was down from 110psi to 30psi while the front had only dropped to only ~80psi.
Is it normal to drop that much over a couple days?

The shifter is kinda clunky, by all the talk online about higher spec derailleurs being smoother and better: I picked the highest end within my budget. 
Does it smooth out over time?

The shop recommended I stick to 110psi in my tires as I'm a big guy: I find them pretty harsh. Are there manufacturer recommendations anywhere for tire pressures for rider weight & riding style?
Or would I get better results, smoother, if I went up to a 28 tire from the OEM 25?

Thx all.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> the rear, after sitting for 3 days, was down from 110psi to 30psi
> Is it normal to drop that much over a couple days?


No. That has a leak.


> The shop recommended I stick to 110psi in my tires as I'm a big guy: I find them pretty harsh. Are there manufacturer recommendations anywhere for tire pressures for rider weight & riding style?
> Or would I get better results, smoother, if I went up to a 28 tire from the OEM 25


How big? Yes, there are guidelines. Often discussed here; do a search. Generally, if you need 110 psi to avoid pinch flats, you need bigger tires. But you may not need that pressure.


> The shifter is kinda clunky,


Depends what you mean by "clunky." What's your experience? What have you used before. It may be normal.


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

SpikedLemon said:


> The LBS advised me to pump the tires prior to every ride. I checked and the rear, after sitting for 3 days, was down from 110psi to 30psi while the front had only dropped to only ~80psi.
> Is it normal to drop that much over a couple days?
> 
> The shifter is kinda clunky, by all the talk online about higher spec derailleurs being smoother and better: I picked the highest end within my budget.
> ...


Like JCavilia said; you probably have a leaky tube in the front. You certainly don't need to top off tires before every ride, especially if you're filling them with 110psi.

Regarding tire pressure: You need to find what pressure works for YOU, considering your weight and the tire size you're using. Go ahead; start with 110psi. On the next ride, pump the tires to 105psi. Keep dropping air for each ride until you feel the tire is soft or you get a pinch flat. Then go back up 5-10psi. and you're done. For instance, I weigh 130lbs. and ride 23mm tires; I use 80psi. and I can go 1-2 weeks before the tires need air and all along that time span the ride isn't harsh.

At your weight I would recommend a wider tire but you'll be restricted to your maximum width by clearances at the front and rear.

As far as the clunky feel of the shifting; things don't usually improve. Lower tier components tend to feel that way. It's the shifters, not the derailleurs.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

I'm 187 lbs, ride on 25 mm tires. After testing like Peter P recommends, I settled on 93 front / 108 rear. Less than that I will pinch flat. 

If I hang the bike on the wall for any length of time, the loss will be ~ 1-2 psi per day over as much as 10 days. Any more than that I probably have a leak, and it will be much greater than 2 psi/day. 

From testing with the digital Topeak gauge I use I've found that checking tire pressure give a loss of 2 psi. 

Some of your loss may be from venting on checking pressure or connecting/disconnecting a pump hose. It only takes a small "pop" of the valve to lose a surprising amount of pressure. That can happen either connecting or disconnecting a pump or a gauge.


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## Srode (Aug 19, 2012)

For reference, run 25mm tires on my road bike and weighing in at 185lbs, run 90 front and 95 rear without ever having a pinch flat. I add air to my tires every morning and they are down about 5lbs front and back.

To smooth out the ride a little you can probably run 28mm on a Synapse, there's definitely room on the frame, the rear brake may be the tightest point for clearance but I would think should make it. Your LBS should know. 

I add air to my tires every morning and they are down about 5lbs front and back. Getting down to 30lbs after 3 days is odd in my mind. Any kind of leak I've ever seen would be completely flat after 3 days. Guess it could be a real slow leak but I've never seen on that slow. 

One thing to be aware of on bike tires - if you fumble even a tiny bit pulling off the air hose or putting it on you are going to lose much more pressure than a car tire because of the smaller volume obviously. The best way to go is check pressure with a gauge that is part of the pump - not a separate one. Using a separate gauge will lose as much air as removing the tire chuck and again, any fumbling and you can lose quite a bit of pressure. There's lots of good floor pumps out there with integrated gauges for around $50 or so, you should consider getting one if you don't have one already.


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## GlobalGuy (Jun 9, 2015)

As others have said that much drop in pressure in the rear means a leak. I don't know about anyone else but all the bikes I've ridden over the years customarily lose pressure over a couple of days whether riding or sitting. (I usually ride every other day on my main bike.) The pressure loss varies by bikes but for whatever reason the drop in pressure is always greatest in the rear tire in my experience. 

I always pump up or "top off" my tires before riding on any of my several bikes so I have good accurate data input. 

You experience aside from the leak may vary. (As does the drop in pressure by some of the posters above.)


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Tire pressure chart (use the calculator on the bottom; the others are bogus);

Bicycle tire pressure calculator

I strongly suggest checking tire pressure for every ride. It doesn't take long and that way you know your tires are properly aired up. If a tube has developed a slow leak you will detect it there in the garage rather than finding out on the road when you flat.

Normally for presta valves you need to 'bump' the valve before checking tire pressure or adding air. The valves tend to stick shut. That loses much more than 2psi.


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## Ayers Garage (Apr 15, 2015)

Don't judge your shifting just yet. Ride the bike a bit and the cables and components will take a set and probably need a bit of an adjustment. That's quite common for any groupset regardless of price or level. At that point, a little lube on the chain and some tweaking and you might then begin to form opinions about overall shifting. Even top of the line stuff can begin to get clunky or hesitant to shift during the first few rides until the first tweak is done.


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## joeinchi (Sep 24, 2010)

Are you "soft pedaling" when you shift? If you shift gears when there's significant tension on the chain, like when you're climbing, you'll get all kinds of clunkiness from your components ... even with high-end models.

To soft pedal, you ease up on the pedal pressure while shifting. The rear derailleurs are usually a bit more forgiving. The front shifter usually requires a firm, smooth twist to shift smoothly but if you find it a bit tough, move your fingers further down (near the middle of the lever) to get a bit more leverage.


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

JCavilia said:


> No. That has a leak.


Thanks. I checked later yesterday and the rear had lost 10psi since my morning ride. I'll talk with my LBS.



> How big? Yes, there are guidelines. Often discussed here; do a search. Generally, if you need 110 psi to avoid pinch flats, you need bigger tires. But you may not need that pressure.


I avoid the scale but I'd say close to 230



joeinchi said:


> To soft pedal, you ease up on the pedal pressure while shifting. The rear derailleurs are usually a bit more forgiving. The front shifter usually requires a firm, smooth twist to shift smoothly but if you find it a bit tough, move your fingers further down (near the middle of the lever) to get a bit more leverage.


I never knew the name for that. Thanks.

The front derailleur is very clunky, though, even when "soft pedalling" when dropping from the large to the small gear. Could it be due to having a compact crank?

I'd not experienced the clunkiness to this extend from my Tourney equipped mountain bike (3x7).


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

Bikes don't have automatic transmissions or clutches, they make noise. Look, there is a bird.


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## romrah (Mar 19, 2015)

Just an outside chance on the tire pressure loss. Be sure you're screwing that head down after inflating them and not leaving that up and screwing your cap on. I've known a few people who had similar issues from just the basics of being new to Presta valves.


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## joeinchi (Sep 24, 2010)

SpikedLemon said:


> I never knew the name for that. Thanks.
> 
> The front derailleur is very clunky, though, even when "soft pedalling" when dropping from the large to the small gear. Could it be due to having a compact crank?
> 
> I'd not experienced the clunkiness to this extend from my Tourney equipped mountain bike (3x7).


You're welcome.

A properly functioning and adjusted FD, should be very quiet. If you're experiencing problems on your downshifts, then it makes me wonder if you're aware of the "trim adjustment," i.e. an intermediate shift position between the small and big rings? 

On a double, you should feel two clicks when you shift up or down. The first click is your trim adjustment and it's used to re-position the FD a small amount and quiet drivetrain noise. A properly adjusted FD won't produce a lot of chain noise, however, so you rarely need it. Just shift the levers the full amount.

This video shows all the adjustments for your FD but watch at 3:40 to see how it should work:


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

SpikedLemon said:


> Thanks. I checked later yesterday and the rear had lost 10psi since my morning ride. I'll talk with my LBS.


Or you could try to find the leak and fix it yourself. It's an important skill for road cyclists to have. Finding a slow leak can be difficult, but removing the tube, pumping it up until it's stretched to about double volume, and then submerging in water usually wiill find it eventually. This will help you find the source of the puncture, it it's in the tire or wheel, so the new tube doesn't suffer similar damage.





> I avoid the scale but I'd say close to 230


Tires larger than 25mm are probably a good idea, if they will fit the frame.



> The front derailleur is very clunky, though, even when "soft pedalling" when dropping from the large to the small gear. Could it be due to having a compact crank?


I'm still not sure what you mean by "clunky." If it shifts promptly and the chain engages immediately, not skipping or hesitating, but just makes a louder noise than you expect, that may be normal.




> I'd not experienced the clunkiness to this extend from my Tourney equipped mountain bike (3x7)


It's possible the drop from the 50 to the 34 (if that's what you have) makes more noise than the smaller gap on the mtb triple. Again, if it functions properly the noise may be meaningless.


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

JCavilia said:


> Or you could try to find the leak and fix it yourself. It's an important skill for road cyclists to have. Finding a slow leak can be difficult, but removing the tube, pumping it up until it's stretched to about double volume, and then submerging in water usually wiill find it eventually. This will help you find the source of the puncture, it it's in the tire or wheel, so the new tube doesn't suffer similar damage.


LBS wanted the bike back for a warranty checkup after ~100km: I also want them to swap the front brake to the right-hand lever.



> Tires larger than 25mm are probably a good idea, if they will fit the frame.


28's fit. It's my next plan.



> I'm still not sure what you mean by "clunky." If it shifts promptly and the chain engages immediately, not skipping or hesitating, but just makes a louder noise than you expect, that may be normal.


Dropping down to the smaller gear: takes a lot more effort on the lever than I would consider normal and makes a solid "clunk" sound. I just wanted to see if this was just a break-in scenario - or a normal sound.



joeinchi said:


> On a double, you should feel two clicks when you shift up or down. The first click is your trim adjustment and it's used to re-position the FD a small amount and quiet drivetrain noise. A properly adjusted FD won't produce a lot of chain noise, however, so you rarely need it. Just shift the levers the full amount.


Yes, this was explained by the LBS when I picked it up. The chain noise isn't my concern: the clunkiness of the shifting is the issue for me. I move it the full travel in one shot so as to skip the middle position when I want to change the gear.

I'll review the trim adjustment once I get back home and look at it - maybe that'll help it.


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

Are you sure you want to swap the brakes? Some UK folks ride reverse of us, but in general, front derailleur and front brake on the same STI and rear brake/derailleur on same STI. 

Also, when you down shift from the 50 to the 34, yeah, there's going to be some clunkiness as the cable releases the front mech and drops the chain down. It might be a kind of loud popping type sound with some loudish clicks associated with the movement. 
My kid runs Sora (the step below yours) and his shifting is liquid smooth. Smoother than my SRAM Force (though I like the notchiness of my stuff better).


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

Corenfa said:


> Are you sure you want to swap the brakes? Some UK folks ride reverse of us, but in general, front derailleur and front brake on the same STI and rear brake/derailleur on same STI.


I'm accustomed to right hand being the front brake; my MTB is the same. I find it odd when it's opposite. Probably from so many years on a motorcycle.


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

ibericb said:


> Some of your loss may be from venting on checking pressure or connecting/disconnecting a pump hose. It only takes a small "pop" of the valve to lose a surprising amount of pressure. That can happen either connecting or disconnecting a pump or a gauge.


You may be right that some is user-error getting accustomed to the presta valve.

I took a little more care and checked last night: I had still dropped 10psi just checking with the gauge.


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## ibericb (Oct 28, 2014)

SpikedLemon said:


> You may be right that some is user-error getting accustomed to the presta valve.
> 
> I took a little more care and checked last night: I had still dropped 10psi just checking with the gauge.


Test yourself with your gauge - do 3-5 pressure checks successively to see how much you loose from the off/on cycle of checking. Note the pressure each time, and then get an average.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

I wouldn't change the front brake lever. I ride bikes & moto's all the time (3 bikes, 2 moto's), once your on one it comes automatic. If you change it, it will be different from all other bikes on the planet & you will never learn to switch. 
Really it is not an issue.


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## Corenfa (Jun 9, 2014)

duriel said:


> I wouldn't change the front brake lever. I ride bikes & moto's all the time (3 bikes, 2 moto's), once your on one it comes automatic. If you change it, it will be different from all other bikes on the planet & you will never learn to switch.
> Really it is not an issue.


I agree. I ride a motorcycle and never have a problem switching. Spend 1 week getting used to it. After that, it's second nature.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

duriel said:


> I wouldn't change the front brake lever. I ride bikes & moto's all the time (3 bikes, 2 moto's), once your on one it comes automatic. If you change it, it will be different from all other bikes on the planet & you will never learn to switch.
> Really it is not an issue.


Or rather, from nearly all other bikes in the United States. But really, what other part of the planet matters? In a number of countries, front-right is more common. If he prefers it that way, for whatever reason, he should do it.

FWIW, Sheldon Brown preferred to have the right lever work the front brake.

Entirely up to you, Mr. Lemon. But get that tube fixed. it's leaking.


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## wim (Feb 28, 2005)

joeinchi said:


> A properly functioning and adjusted FD, should be very quiet.


Agree. But if the shifter is a triple doing duty as a double and set up a certain way, it's possible to have the shifter go into the third (supposedly blocked out) position just enough to put an unusually large amount of tension on the cable. Trying to release that tension takes so much force that often, the user is actually afraid to break something inside of the shifter with the paddle, which can happen. When the tension does release in these third-position jam-ups, it's with a loud, disconcerting pop.

A small adjustment on the FD limit screw takes care of the problem almost all of the time. It's just a matter of not allowing the shifter to advance even just the slightest bit into the unused third position. Obviously, if there's a dedicated double shifter on the bike, none of this applies and just ignore this post.


For reference on the Tiagra front shifter, all based on my understanding: 4500 was marketed as double and triple compatible. 4501 was double only. 4503 is mechanically the same as 4500, but was marketed as triple because the shifter could break when using it on a double if the unused third position wasn't blocked out properly (see my description above of how this can happen).


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

SpikedLemon said:


> I finally picked up my new roadbike (first roadbike) this week: a leftover Cannondale Synapse Tiagra and finally got a decent ride in this morning.
> 
> I've got a few questions (pardon my beginner-ness):
> 
> ...


Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, one often overlooked issue on shifting problems is the cables. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good. Sometimes even high end bikes come with cheaper galvanized cables that aren't as smooth and therefore there will be friction within the housings which can cause poor shifting. Stainless steel PTFE coated cables are the way to go. Don't know which cables you have? Run your fingers along a shift cable. If you get gray residue on your fingers, you have the cheaper galvanized cables!

Also, I don't know whether your Synapse Tiagra has internally or externally run cables. If they are internally run, that opens up a whole host of other possible issues. I bought a new 2014 Synapse Carbon 105 5 a year ago and had some shifting as well as front chain dropping issues. As it turned out, the internally routed cables were crossed inside the downtube causing friction! And the front chain dropping was caused by the chain being installed backwards - yes, some chains are directional!

As far as tires, even though I'm only 170lbs., I went from 25c to 28c tires and noticed a vast improvement in my ride. I run 80PSI on the front and 100PSI on the rear, but I could probably run lower if I wanted to. You can definitely fit 28c tires on the Synapse.

Good luck!


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

Just to circle back after going back to the LBS...

The front derailleur stop was, in fact, not setup properly and there was too much cable tension. The tech was surprised how poorly it was set up. 

The tire, he checked, and it seemed fine to him. I'm consistently down from 110 to 80 between rides. I picked up a flat kit and a pump just in case to limp home. 

As for the brake swap: its a personal choice. Being being accustomed to it on my other bike and my motorcycles: it leaves the left hand for signals while the right hand and stronger brake can be used together slowing to a stop sign.


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## duriel (Oct 10, 2013)

Another issue on tire pressures to consider is where you ride. If there are pot holes & bad pavement with sharp edges, you will need to up the psi over the comfy ride level. You should base this on where you're planning on riding & the road conditions.
The higher pressure will protect against pinches but the ride will be harsh.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

SpikedLemon said:


> Just to circle back after going back to the LBS...
> 
> The front derailleur stop was, in fact, not setup properly and there was too much cable tension. The tech was surprised how poorly it was set up.


Not surprising considering how many things were done wrong on my new bike in the factory.



SpikedLemon said:


> The tire, he checked, and it seemed fine to him. I'm consistently down from 110 to 80 between rides. I picked up a flat kit and a pump just in case to limp home.


Hmmm. Are you saying you don't see this difference on the other tire? If not, there has to be a slow leak somewhere. I would replace the tube and see if it continues.



SpikedLemon said:


> As for the brake swap: its a personal choice. Being being accustomed to it on my other bike and my motorcycles: it leaves the left hand for signals while the right hand and stronger brake can be used together slowing to a stop sign.


Are you serious? You mean you would use the front brake exclusively? That's a good recipe for an endo. I would rather have only the rear brake than only the front brake, but to each their own.


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

Lombard said:


> Are you serious? You mean you would use the front brake exclusively? That's a good recipe for an endo. I would rather have only the rear brake than only the front brake, but to each their own.


I'm not sure where I said I used it exclusively nor that I plan to hamfist the brake and flip myself. I have not had a two wheeled vehicle brake on the left side in >15 years and have not flipped myself yet.

I don't understand why having the brake flipped for personal preferences causes such judgement on bicycle forums - it's not as though I'm changing other people's bikes without consent.


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## GOTA (Aug 27, 2012)

SpikedLemon said:


> Just to circle back after going back to the LBS...
> 
> The front derailleur stop was, in fact, not setup properly and there was too much cable tension. The tech was surprised how poorly it was set up.
> 
> ...


Just replace the tube. Slow leaks are still leaks. $6 is worth the piece of mind.


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## PBL450 (Apr 12, 2014)

I have a Sora equipped CAAD 8. Big ring to small ring was clunky and I even dropped the chain a few times. Wim is spot on. LBS mech explained exactly that. Shifts perfectly smooth now, like a different bike. Perfect.

i also go 100/105 to 80 on the floor pump overnight. It's mostly the little pop on the tip of the valve I do before I put the pump head on. But I'm with getting a new tube for piece of mind. When you have the bike at LBS to check if it's a triple or double shifter ask them to do the swap and take the opportunity to ask them how to do it. Try to go when they aren't whacked packed busy and they will happily teach you change the tube. 

And let the negativity roll off. It's pretty common around here. But so is great information and support. If you want it switched then switch it, just don't EVER let anyone ride your bike! 




wim said:


> Agree. But if the shifter is a triple doing duty as a double and set up a certain way, it's possible to have the shifter go into the third (supposedly blocked out) position just enough to put an unusually large amount of tension on the cable. Trying to release that tension takes so much force that often, the user is actually afraid to break something inside of the shifter with the paddle, which can happen. When the tension does release in these third-position jam-ups, it's with a loud, disconcerting pop.





wim said:


> A small adjustment on the FD limit screw takes care of the problem almost all of the time. It's just a matter of not allowing the shifter to advance even just the slightest bit into the unused third position. Obviously, if there's a dedicated double shifter on the bike, none of this applies and just ignore this post.
> 
> 
> For reference on the Tiagra front shifter, all based on my understanding: 4500 was marketed as double and triple compatible. 4501 was double only. 4503 is mechanically the same as 4500, but was marketed as triple because the shifter could break when using it on a double if the unused third position wasn't blocked out properly (see my description above of how this can happen).


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## joeinchi (Sep 24, 2010)

SpikedLemon said:


> I don't understand why having the brake flipped for personal preferences causes such judgement on bicycle forums - it's not as though I'm changing other people's bikes without consent.


:lol: Fair enough.

Thanks for circling back. I'm sure it's not just quieter but A LOT easier to shift up to the big ring, too. Glad you got it sorted. :thumbsup:


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## ColaJacket (Apr 13, 2015)

Lombard said:


> Are you serious? You mean you would use the front brake exclusively? That's a good recipe for an endo. I would rather have only the rear brake than only the front brake, but to each their own.


While you shouldn't necessarily use the front brake exclusively, it should be the primary brake. And you should practice emergency stops with just the front brake. The front brake is going to give you most of your stopping power, and in emergency situations 98%+.

Sheldon Brown on braking.

GH


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## SpikedLemon (May 15, 2015)

GOTA said:


> Just replace the tube. Slow leaks are still leaks. $6 is worth the piece of mind.


Probably the prudent choice.


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## HyperCycle (Sep 5, 2012)

The roads are terrible in my hometown, because our local government won't spend money on re-paving roads... lots of potholes and busted, uneven pavement, due to amateur snow scrapers clearing snow in the winter, while ripping up the asphalt. I run 100psi on both front and back on my Trek 1.1.... and I have yet to experience a flat on my local loop ride with terrible roads.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

SpikedLemon said:


> I'm not sure where I said I used it exclusively nor that I plan to hamfist the brake and flip myself. I have not had a two wheeled vehicle brake on the left side in >15 years and have not flipped myself yet.
> 
> I don't understand why having the brake flipped for personal preferences causes such judgement on bicycle forums - it's not as though I'm changing other people's bikes without consent.


You will get many opinions here including mine. Sorry if I appeared "judgmental". That was just my opinion and you know that old saying about opinions.  If you feel comfortable riding that way, that's OK. It just rather unusual on this side of the pond. When I rented a mountain bike in the UK, the brakes were reversed from what they are here in the USA (stands to reason as they drive on left side). The rental guy knew I was from the USA and warned me. Not to mention the bike also had disc brakes which I had never ridden before that.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> Are you serious? You mean you would use the front brake exclusively?* That's a good recipe for an endo*.


Only if you have very poor braking skills. A good rider who knows how to properly modulate braking pressure would never have that happen, and on good pavement can make an emergency stop with the front brake alone perfectly safely. 




> I would rather have only the rear brake than only the front brake, but to each their own.


You are in a decided minority, at least among experienced and skilled road riders. In fact, you're doing it wrong, and you're not stopping as quickly and safely as you could.

You might find this illuminating:
Braking and Turning Your Bicycle


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

JCavilia said:


> Only if you have very poor braking skills. A good rider who knows how to properly modulate braking pressure would never have that happen, and on good pavement can make an emergency stop with the front brake alone perfectly safely.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I did read this a few hours ago after ColaJacket posted it. Interesting indeed. I guess according to many "experienced and skilled road riders", I've been doing it all wrong. Let me just say that I've been road riding 2000+ miles per year since 2007. I almost exclusively use the rear brake unless further braking is needed, then I add the front brake. I have yet to lose control and end up on the ground, much less in an ambulance.

I'm sure I will get a lot of flack here from the "experienced and skilled road riders", but my viewpoint has always been if you really need all that much braking power you are talking about, you are probably riding too fast for conditions. I get my endorfin release from climbing 10% grades, not from barrelling down 10% grades at 40mph. I also leave space in front of me when riding in a group. I will only draft someone if I know their riding style well and never with other cyclists right in front of them.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Lombard said:


> I Let me just say that I've been road riding 2000+ miles per year since 2007. I almost exclusively use the rear brake unless further braking is needed, then I add the front brake. I have yet to lose control and end up on the ground, much less in an ambulance.


Your choice. I've provided my advice, and will say no more, except that in a true panic stop situation (which can occur for lots of reasons other than "riding too fast for conditions"), your method will not stop you as quickly; the rear wheel will lock up and skid long before you have reached the deceleration rates that are possible with the front brake. If you've never faced that situation, lucky for you; your prudent approach to speed may help.

FWIW (not much, really), I've been riding that much or more yearly since 1972. I get my endorphins going up and down, and on the flats, too. And riding in traffic, which is where good braking matters most.

No flak, just advice. If you have a method that works for you, use it. But the physics and millions of miles of experience says it's not the best way.

Ride on. Have fun. Be careful.


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## Lombard (May 8, 2014)

JCavilia said:


> Your choice. I've provided my advice, and will say no more, except that in a true panic stop situation (which can occur for lots of reasons other than "riding too fast for conditions"), your method will not stop you as quickly; the rear wheel will lock up and skid long before you have reached the deceleration rates that are possible with the front brake. If you've never faced that situation, lucky for you; your prudent approach to speed may help.
> 
> FWIW (not much, really), I've been riding that much or more yearly since 1972. I get my endorphins going up and down, and on the flats, too. And riding in traffic, which is where good braking matters most.
> 
> ...


Understood, thanks. You have way more miles than I do. We each have a method that works for us.

I'm pretty in tune with how much I can squeeze the rear brake before it locks, and will apply the front well before that point if I need it.

FWIW, I avoid the heaviest trafficked roads which isn't always easy as I live in NJ.

Thanks!


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