# Lightest road bikes for around $1000



## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

I am new to riding. I am actually preparing to run a marathon and need a good bike for long distance riding that will also satisfy my need for speed (I used to ride on treks). As such, I am looking for the lightest bike that is durable and has quality parts for around $1000. I have looked at many brands and come up with a list of possible matches below. Now I have two questions: does it matter which brand I go with or do all of them offer similar quality for similar price? If that's the case, then it will be my choice among these bikes and I will go with the best style. My second question is did I miss any great bikes? I am also open to recommendations.

Here is the list:

Specialized Allez Sport
Giant Defy 2
Cannondale CAAD8 6 Tiagra
Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6 Tiagra
Trek Lexa SL
Fuji ROUBAIX 2.0
Scott Speedster S30
Motobecane Grand Sprint
Schwinn Le Tour elite

Thank you.


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## AlanE (Jan 22, 2002)

Don't be too obsessed with weight. A couple pounds won't make too much of a difference.

Brand isn't that important as it applies primarily to just the frame. Go for Shimano 105 components or equivalent.

Don't minimize style when it comes to your selection. The more you like the look of your bike, the more you will want to ride it and maintain it.


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## dharrison (Oct 27, 2009)

Unless you cannot possibly lose weight the weight of the bike is really a non-issue. Like AlanE said, choose a bike with 105 or equivalent. If you're looking to shave pounds do so by upgrading the wheels since rotational weight > frame weight. 

Some folks worry about shaving a few grams on static weight components like the stem, seatpost, etc then put on a couple 20 ounce water bottles.


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

I looked up Shimano. What would be considered equivalent?

And I agree, I am not going for the lightest possible bike. Style is important to me.

I am also looking at used bikes on craigslist and ebay. Is there another place to find good deals?

I have noticed that some of the wheels have fewer number of spokes. I was wondering if there is a name for these.


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## frdfandc (Nov 27, 2007)

Shimano 105 - Sram Rival/Apex - Campagnolo Centaur - These are all equivalent.


As stated before, don't obsess with weight. Most of those will be with in a 1/4 lb of each other.

Ride them all if possible, and buy the one that fits the best, then looks the best to you.


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## youscared (Apr 28, 2010)

I'm new to cycling myself and I didn't want to spend a lot on a bike in case if I didn't enjoy it. I looked around and couldn't find anything with decent components except for a Bottecchia Cf672 for $1100. On EBay. I know what everyone will say but for the price and the components it was worth it. I bought it in May but didn't start to ride until late Sept (out of town working) and have logged just over 1200 miles. I love the sport and I'm very happy with the bike. Although now I know that I LOVE to ride and can't keep thinking that a new,more expensive bike is in the near future. I llove my bike and glad I went in that direction but like everything else I now want something much better. 
Good luck!


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## Brechi98 (Nov 26, 2010)

I bought a Felt Z85 for $1,100.00 at my local bike shop. It has 105 components and has been great so far. It all about the rider not the bike.


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## Mr. Versatile (Nov 24, 2005)

AlanE said:


> Don't be too obsessed with weight. A couple pounds won't make too much of a difference.
> 
> Brand isn't that important as it applies primarily to just the frame. Go for Shimano 105 components or equivalent.
> 
> Don't minimize style when it comes to your selection. The more you like the look of your bike, the more you will want to ride it and maintain it.


The best advice here.


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## Cni2i (Jun 28, 2010)

Brechi98 said:


> I bought a Felt Z85 for $1,100.00 at my local bike shop. It has 105 components and has been great so far. * It all about the rider not the bike*.


I would say that that's mostly true....but a nice bike with a nice set of wheels can make a difference as well. :thumbsup:


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

If you're getting a new bike, it's very helpful to buy locally, so you can test ride a bunch of bikes and get help with fit. If the bike doesn't fit you, riding it is going to be torture. If the way the frame is proportioned is way off, you may never be able to make it fit right.

You've listed a ton of brands. Maybe you can narrow down your list if you start by figuring out which ones are available locally.

You've also listed both men's and women's models - are you a woman? WSD bikes aren't necessarily a bad fit for a man, or a good fit for a woman, but they do tend to be better for people with long legs and a short reach, which is descriptive of many women. So you may be able to focus on or exclude that entire category, depending on how you're proportioned. Of course, it never hurts to ride them.

What does long distance mean to you? Are you going to want to be able to mount a rack?


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## Richard (Feb 17, 2006)

If you are new to riding, a good shop is probably more important than "brand."

As others have pointed out, fit really is paramount. The best deal on a pretty bike isn't worth squat if it doesn't fit. Right now, with the economy still suffering, a lot of shops have 2010 stock for which they may be more willing to "deal." I know we do.

Hit 'em all, be patient and when you "test ride" pay a lot more attention to how the bike feels, rides, and handles as opposed to shifting. We can make a $150 WalMart bike shift pretty good for the duration of a test ride.


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## laffeaux (Dec 12, 2001)

As others said, what matters:

- Bike fit. Make sure that the bike that you buy is the correct size and that a competent bike fitter has adjusted the saddle, stem and bars to fit you.

- The bike shop. If you are new to cycling, it's better to buy from a shop that you like and from people that that you trust. You will go back and ask for advice, and to buy clothing and accessories. Feeling comfortable enough to ask "dumb" questions is really important for newer riders. Good shops will be happy to help you learn what you need to know.

- Bike color. It's important that you like your bike and want to ride it. Some people could care less what their bike looks like, but most do. If getting a bike that looks nice makes you ride more, than get that bike!


As others said weight is pretty insignificant. My "normal" bike weighs about 17 pounds. Yesterday the roads were a bit sketchy so I took my old beater bike on a 52 mile group ride - it weighs 20 pounds. I enjoyed the ride just as much, kept up with the same group of guys that I normally ride with, and didn't notice the extra 3 pounds that I was carrying.


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## drwsport (Sep 7, 2010)

I would have to say the bike does make a difference when you look at the cassettes and total weight. I have been riding a Quintana Roo that weighs 23 lbs and has 18 gears. I took my old Schwinn that ways 30 Lbs and has 10 gears yesterday on a quick 21 mile ride and it was pretty tuff. 
I'm thinking of getting the Scott Speedster 30 myself.


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## Oldguybikingnewb (Jan 25, 2011)

I actually purchased my bike from this web sites classified adds. That is a scary proposition as it was more $ than what you said is your limit. The point being, I received a full Dura Ace Carbon/Steel bike for 1/3'd what the retail shop in town wanted (before you feel bad for them, I have purchased other bikes from them).

It is WAY more bike than my skill level, but there was value to be had.

It also helped my Cousin a cat 2 rider from California (back in the day) lived 5 min. from the guy, hand delivered the $ and picked the bike up at the same time.

Certainly worth looking around, and you never know, what you find may be just down the street or a short drive away, if you know the size of bike you can use. My bike shop had fit me for a previous purchase, so I knew what I needed, actually sat on their bike.

good luck


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

I placed an order for CAAD10 5 for $1150. The site is http://estoredirectonline.com/new2011cannondalecaad105compact.aspx

Has anyone used them? Anyone from UK here?


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## the sarge (Jan 10, 2011)

Personally I own the fuji roubaix acr 2.0 and love it. But it may not fit you the same as me. But the ride and stiffness combined with the full 105 has me happy


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

I have found the 2010 ACR 2.0 for $1199. If my bike doesn't follow through, I will check it out.


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## hearthrob_03 (Mar 17, 2010)

Excelsius said:


> I placed an order for CAAD10 5 for $1150. The site is http://estoredirectonline.com/new2011cannondalecaad105compact.aspx
> 
> Has anyone used them? Anyone from UK here?



has anyone placed an order with this company before? i'd be curious to know as the prices seem pretty good


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## Touch0Gray (May 29, 2003)

the prices may be good but I do know some of the manufacturers they sell do NOT allow their bikes to be sold on-line (new)

SO......you may be purchasing gray or black market and almost certainly without a warranty.

Also shipping on a complete bike to the US may be a bit pricey!


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## RRRoubaix (Aug 27, 2008)

.. and to expand on ToG's post, a number of UK webstores won't ship bikes or frames to the US as well.


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## nyvram (Apr 11, 2002)

Excelsius said:


> II placed an order for CAAD10 5 for $1150..


so let me get this straight..a bike built in pennsylvania..shipped overseas...built up...then shipped back to the states is cheaper than buying it here. LOL

gotta love this global market.

ps i bought my first LOOK from this very site's classifieds and it was a great deal and served me well. don't be afraid to check out the classifieds here.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

Excelsius said:


> I placed an order for CAAD10 5 for $1150. The site is http://estoredirectonline.com/new2011cannondalecaad105compact.aspx
> 
> Has anyone used them? Anyone from UK here?


*sigh*

Why do so many people think buying a bike is like selecting a new toaster? Hell, I think more people probably want to see and feel the toaster before they buy it - and a toaster isn't something you're going to sit on for hundreds of miles; or at least I hope it isn't.

I guess going to the bike shop was just too scary or difficult.


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## nyvram (Apr 11, 2002)

same reason i paid $7000 for a used 4runner instead of $30,000 new. i can't always afford new and its rare to find a local bike shop thats willing to maintain a decent inventory of used bikes.

bikes last alot longer than cars as well so why does it come as a surprise that the used market (often at a fraction of retail) is flourishing?

in fact my current mondrian look came from a french speaking guy who lives in puerto rico..this after my local LOOK dealer contacted his rep to try & buy the same bike for me at retail. the look rep said 'no can do' and so i bought a bike team's spare bike for a fraction of new..and guess what? it looks and rides like it just came out of the box.

ps and i'm not going to generalize because i have a GREAT shop by my house..but i know when i was first getting into the sport that between the smug employees at the bike store and the 'roadies' hanging around the shop that i was made to feel i was somewhere between a neanderthal and a moron because my questions were apparently incredibly stupid.


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## seacoaster (May 9, 2010)

PlatyPius said:


> *sigh*
> 
> Why do so many people think buying a bike is like selecting a new toaster? Hell, I think more people probably want to see and feel the toaster before they buy it - and a toaster isn't something you're going to sit on for hundreds of miles; or at least I hope it isn't.
> 
> I guess going to the bike shop was just too scary or difficult.


Are you trying to say that it’s worth $350 (less the cost of shipping from the UK) to get a bike that fits, has a warranty, and comes with some basic service?

I paid list for my Synapse, and can’t figure out how I could have saved any money if I had to pay for what the LBS did as part of the sale (fitting, swapped stem & bars, retaped, basic tune up after a few hundred miles, etc.) if I only got a few hundred dollars off.


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## hearthrob_03 (Mar 17, 2010)

sorry guys but i gotta say that this online VS LBS is a topic that has been discussed many times before. there will always be those who prefer one over the other. 

so im guessing no one has bought from www.estoredirectonline.com before?


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

nyvram said:


> so let me get this straight..a bike built in pennsylvania..shipped overseas...built up...then shipped back to the states is cheaper than buying it here. LOL
> 
> gotta love this global market.
> 
> ps i bought my first LOOK from this very site's classifieds and it was a great deal and served me well. don't be afraid to check out the classifieds here.


Starting with CAAD10, the bikes are made in Asia, not America.

Yes I placed the order from that site. It was a fake. They asked me for money transfer instead and I sent them a very nice email about their request. Never heard back from them again.

Brands like Cannondale are hard to get online. I bought mine from LBS with a decent price though - $1399 for CAAD10 5 + tax. Includes lifetime free tuneups. The price for that around here is ~ $55, so after 10 tuneups, the price of the bike will drop by another $550. Not to mention that the LBS was good and that as a new rider I will need tuneups for my safety.

I have posted this in another forum and got plenty of responses. A lot of good info there. If you guys would like a link, let me know. That's how I decided on CAAD10. And to the person who said I'm scared to go to LBS, at this point I visited over 10. Almost all sucked or did not have many choices. The one I liked is pretty far away from me - 20 miles. I am still buying _all_ of my gear and accessories online because LBS charges for the lowest end stuff higher than what I can pay online for the high end stuff. Here is a quick list for newbs, copied from the other forum:


Cycling Shorts - $35.62

Diadora Aerospeed Road Shoe - $34

(Pearl iZUMi Men's Select Road Road Cycling Shoe - $78) Alternative

Shimano SPD-SL Road Pedals - $45.78

Shimano SPD-SL Cleat Sets - $19.26

2009 Louis Garneau Exo-Nerv Road Helmet - $60

Scattante Team Photochromatic Multi-Lens Eyewear - $42

Topeak Modula Cage Waterbottle - $7.95

(Elite Custom Race Cage - $6) Alternative

Eco Vessel Insulated Vacuum Sealed thermos Stainless Steel Water Bottle - $21.95

Topeak Road Morph G Bike Pump with Gauge - $28.38

White Lightning Chain Lubricant - $11.99 Wax is supposed to be better than lube

Pedros Oranj Peelz Cleaner - $13.40

Topeak Aero Wedge Pack with Buckle - $16.95

Park Tool GP-2 Super Patch Kit - $2.99

~$340

I have already bought the Swagman XTC, Kryptonite NY with some flex cables and Hardwire 2018 and Cateye Strada Wireless Computer. 

Well, unfortunately this site did not preserve all the links above. Oh well.

Thanks for all the help. A note to the admin: if you get rid of the old structure of this forum, users would find it more convenient to use and there would be more traffic. I really don't like the tree format and having to spend my time switching back to normal threads. This has been one reason why I did not come back here much. Just trying to help out.


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## Don4 (Jul 29, 2010)

*But I digress...*



hearthrob_03 said:


> sorry guys but i gotta say that this online VS LBS is a topic that has been discussed many times before. there will always be those who prefer one over the other.


Please understand I am not directing this specifically at you....

It's ALL been discussed here before! The search function is best used for those who either don't want to wait for an answer to their question, or are too shy to bring it up in a forum. New people come into these forums all the time. Some of us are here seemingly forever. It's a dynamic group with an equally dynamic base of experience! That's why we come here. And that's why they can sell advertising to support it.


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## slow.climber (Nov 25, 2010)

*Test ride them and then weigh them*

Around here many of the shops have a handly hanging scale. I'd recommend weighing the bikes AFTER you take the test rides. Don't let your knowledge of what the scale says get in the way of how the bike actually feels when you ride it.

For me, the most important change I've made is the wheels. On one frame I went from Mavic Open Pro, to Bongrager Race Lite, to Mavic Ksyrium Elite.

The upgrade from Open Pro to Race Lite was like night and day. By far the best upgrade I ever made to a bike.

The change from Race Lite to Ksyrium Elite was hardly noticable in terms of speed/effort but was enormous in terms of reliability. I kept breaking spokes on the Race Lite coming into turns on fast descents. That was bad but much worse was breaking the hub flange (where the spokes connect to the hub). That did it for me. No more Bontrager wheels.

How do you feel about building up an older used bike?

My 8 year old 61cm steel frame with Ksyrium Elite wheels and Shimano Ultegra 10-speed groupo (plus bike light, two bottle cages) weights in at 20 lbs.

This is lighter than a friend's brand new 55cm Trek 2.1 Don't know how much because we never weighed her bike but she was shocked when she was helping me put the bikes on the roof rack.


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

Excelsius said:


> Starting with CAAD10, the bikes are made in Asia, not America.
> 
> Yes I placed the order from that site. It was a fake. They asked me for money transfer instead and I sent them a very nice email about their request. Never heard back from them again.
> 
> ...


Just some comments on the things u bought, i know they're all subjective but just to offer a different opinion: 
-the caad10 5 was on sale at the end of the season at my lbs for $1200, feel like you coulda gotten a better deal
-pedals come with cleats if they're new in box
-helmets should be tried on, sizes vary
-topeak modula bottle cage is eh, bottle cages fit regular bottles. use regular bottles. and regular cages are lighter and less flimsy
-how do u plan on opening that bottle while riding?
-decent pump, but heavy and bulky
-wax isn't better than lube. wax is sticky and will pick up road grime and dirty your entire drivetrain. regular lube like prolink will keep your chain lubricated and clean at the same time.
-again, if you had lube, you wouldn't need any orange citrus cleaner for the chain.
-the swagman xtc is a decent rack but i've used a similar design and dont like the frame contact. the hook that holds the top tube of the bike also got loose once and my bike almost fell off the back of my car on the highway. luckily i had it locked with the cable lock. i'd get a different rack. i use a thule t2 and its heavy as ****, but works well.
-i would NEVER lock my bike up anywhere out of my sight for more than 1 minute. locking your bike to a pole or anything may scratch your bike.


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

*http://forums.roadbikereview.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=3195348*



LOUISSSSS said:


> Just some comments on the things u bought, i know they're all subjective but just to offer a different opinion:
> -the caad10 5 was on sale at the end of the season at my lbs for $1200, feel like you coulda gotten a better deal
> -pedals come with cleats if they're new in box
> -helmets should be tried on, sizes vary
> ...


Very informative post. 

- The price of the bike depends on where you live. Here in SoCal everything is very expensive. So $1399 for CAAD10 5 is a good deal. Actually, I paid $1699 (tax included) and got the White Rival CAAD10 4! Also, since I have lifetime free tuneups, every time I visit, it will be a $55 value for my area. After 10 tuneups the price will drop by $550.

- Someone already mentioned about cleats and I dropped them. I also got the Shimano 105 pedals instead - they were on sale for $56

- I will figure something out with the thermos. I could always use one of my plastic caps for regular water bottles. I also have additional steel bottles (not insulated) that I could use if the thermos really doesn't work.

- I didn't get the Topeak. Ended up with the Elite.

- Well, what other pump would you recommend? That pump is not only well reviewed on Amazon, but recommended on BF forums.

- I was going to get oil, but then read that wax is preferred by a lot of cyclists specifically for it's ability to repel dirt. Whatever dirt comes into contact with it, dries out and peels off. The reason I got the degreaser is not to remove the wax, but to remove the original oil on the bike and replace with wax. They only don't recommend using wax at low temperatures, like in the east coast during winter.

- I have to lock my bike because I also got it to be able to use for commutes sometimes. I do have a mountain bike as well (older), but I bought this bike so I can use it. Maybe I can tape up the U-lock.

- Your experience with XTC is very concerning. XTC has excellent reviews on Amazon. I thoroughly read all the info on T2 and other brands before going with Swagman. I wanted something light, durable, compact, stable, 1.25" with high ground clearance, and reasonably priced. Swagman satisfied all these requirements. Can you please explain to me why was your bike falling out? Did you strap it at the wheels as well? It seems that if nothing else, just those straps should have kept your bike stable.

I am installing a hitch on my car this week and will try the XTC. If it doesn't work, I can always return it since it's from Amazon.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

Excelsius said:


> - Someone already mentioned about cleats and I dropped them.* I also got the Shimano 105 pedals instead* - they were on sale for $56


Very wise choice. I have been having nothing but problems with the cheap SPD-SL pedals. Every single pair I've sold, the person can't clip in. I don't know if it's the pedals or the Diadora shoes, but they just don't work. Put 105 pedals on, and the person has no trouble at all. Ergo, I am no longer selling the cheap pedals - only 105 or above.

Don't get me started on the chain wax... I can rant for hours. Chains need lube. Wax isn't a lube. Wax is a sealant. If you clean out all of the oil that is currently in the chain, you will be running it dry, but well sealed. It will fail very quickly.


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## ziscwg (Apr 19, 2010)

I agree with most that stated above not to worry to much about the weight of the bike. The caad10 is a good choice. I have only gone 3 miles on one, but i liked it. 

Now you should be working on the engine for the bike. It will make a lot more difference in your performance than a pound or two off the bike. You don't have to ever race, but if you train to race, you will find you have a lot more fun on your weekend fun rides. You can go longer, make that 2000ft climb, take the rollers without having to rest on the downhill..etc. I'm fairly new to road, but have trained for mtb racing for 3 years. It just makes both types of riding more fun.


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## dytakeda (Jul 8, 2010)

dharrison said:


> Unless you cannot possibly lose weight the weight of the bike is really a non-issue. Like AlanE said, choose a bike with 105 or equivalent. If you're looking to shave pounds do so by upgrading the wheels since rotational weight > frame weight.


Can someone explain: rotational weight > frame weight ?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

It's a conservation of energy thing.

Something that's spinning has more mechanical energy than something that's just moving through space. That energy has to come from somewhere, so it takes more work for the rider to spin up heavier wheels. Typically, that means slower acceleration. It also takes more work to change the attitude of the wheels - same as how a gyroscope works. So handling is slower. For me, that's the main difference. Fun fact - one can derive a relationship between rim and spoke moment of inertia showing that weight at the rim is three times as important as weight of a spoke; weight at the hub may as well be anywhere else on the frame. A lot of high-priced low spoke count wheels have heavier rims to make the low spoke count and overall weight loss work, but a higher moment of inertia about the hub.

I suspect it also has an effect on climbing out of the saddle, but I think it's complicated and haven't cared to sit down and figure out what effects, if any, heavier wheels have on the rocking motion involved in that kind of climbing or sprinting.

There are also some shocking inequalities in how important the air resistance of a wheel vs. the rest of the frame is. I wish I could find that article again. It somewhat redeems low spoke-count and deep-V wheels, and makes something like the Mad Fiber wheel sound like a really good purchase.


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## Mellow Yellow (Sep 5, 2003)

at the $1000 mark, they weight will be similar through out most brands. I would lean towards the Allez in that price range due to quality of frame and components.


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## Excelsius (Jan 23, 2011)

I got some great advice at bikeforums and have bought CAAD10 Rival. Have been riding it for two weeks already. If you're interested, you can check out First Bike: CAAD10 4 Rival

I am going to unsubscribe from this thread/forum now since I really don't like the interface of this site

Thanks everyone for your advice.


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## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Id rather have nice wheels and tires with sora, than junk with 105. Most bikes skimp on the most important parts and install higher end drivetrain and jack up the price so you think you're getting value. 

I followed that advice when I got my OCR1, and now Ive replaced all those parts I paid extra for.. I really should have gotten a OCR 2 or even 3. Even going to a "higher" end bike with ultegra wouldnt have gotten me the components that really matter.. just a more flashy drivetrain. 

Excelsius, you can change the forum view to "linear". The default threaded mode is absolutely terrible. It'll change your forum experience drastically.


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## LOUISSSSS (Dec 14, 2009)

Excelsius said:


> I got some great advice at bikeforums and have bought CAAD10 Rival. Have been riding it for two weeks already. If you're interested, you can check out First Bike: CAAD10 4 Rival
> 
> I am going to unsubscribe from this thread/forum now since I really don't like the interface of this site
> 
> Thanks everyone for your advice.


caad10 4 is a good first bike. race geometry though, so be prepared to be put in an aggressive position while riding. 

Cannondale doesn't include the full rival groupset though, no rival brakes or chain. also, the rs10's about a pretty low end wheelset. i'd take a set of entry level aksium's over them... 
On another note, you get the sexy Force crankset though. overall, a good bike if u can get it for $1500


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## scryan (Jan 24, 2011)

PlatyPius said:


> *sigh*
> 
> Why do so many people think buying a bike is like selecting a new toaster? Hell, I think more people probably want to see and feel the toaster before they buy it - and a toaster isn't something you're going to sit on for hundreds of miles; or at least I hope it isn't.
> 
> I guess going to the bike shop was just too scary or difficult.


Because its hard to save $400+ dollars on a toaster by purchasing online.


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## flannels (Nov 30, 2011)

Brechi98 said:


> I bought a Felt Z85 for $1,100.00 at my local bike shop. It has 105 components and has been great so far. It all about the rider not the bike.


My son just bought a Z85 for 1000.00. He loves it. I rode it the other day and it has better drivetrain components, better hbar tape and brake feel than my specialized and about 300.00 less. Good choice Brechi!


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