# Why should I buy a $160 bottom bracket?



## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

I'm looking to get components for a build and was doing some research on bottom brackets. I think I know what they do, but I'm wondering if there is really any difference in performance between the $50 ones and the $160 ones.

The expensive ones I'm looking at are the Phil Wood BBs. Is there good reason to get these over the less expensive alternatives?


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## thebikingcello (Feb 3, 2011)

more expensive BB's tend to be a little(or a lot) less hassle. they tend to hold up better in the long run.

for me, I got a tiagra crank so I needed a new BB, I picked the 105 BB just because it is nicer. I was thinking a dura ace BB but 105 is known to do the trick... I still went for the nicer one

the BB's function is to hold the crank arms and allow them to rotate smoothly.


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

Can I ask? Does the bottom bracket need to be repaired or replaced often if you get a decent one? Note: When I say I want to get something cheaper, I mean less expensive not faulty.

Can I get a BB that is far less than the Phil Wood and not have problems with it? Is it worth spending a lot for the nice BB?


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## Ventruck (Mar 9, 2009)

rkdvsm said:


> Can I get a BB that is far less than the Phil Wood and not have problems with it? Is it worth spending a lot for the nice BB?


Yes to the first question. Quite frankly, just don't point a hose at your BB and it'll last.

Expensive BB worth it? I wouldn't know. Really wouldn't care to either.


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## thebikingcello (Feb 3, 2011)

really, as long as it is installed correctly and torqued down good. As long as you do not get uber cheap one,you'll be fine.

a BB with sealed bearings will be pretty maintenance free, but sometimes you do need to do some maintenance. But if there is anything wrong with the BB, you just get a new one. they are pretty cheap to replace(in the cycling world). 

in my eyes, Phil wood makes amazing stuff, but no one "needs" it for a bike to be low maintenance.

I wish I could tell ya a good BB but I have not run square taped... What Crank are you using btw?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

Phil Wood makes beautiful stuff, like industrial jewelry. It lasts essentially forever. But you don't "need" that unless you plan to ride this bike 100,000 miles.

Modern sealed-bearing bottom brackets are almost totally trouble-free, even the cheap ones. My rainy-day commuter bike has the cheap Shimano square-taper model UN-54, which you can get for 25 bucks or less. It has thousands of miles of abuse and I never pay the least attention to it. It's working fine. If it goes all crunchy one day I'll get another one.

So, IMHO, if you're talking function, more $ on the bb doesn't get you much, unless you need it to last forever and be real pretty. I don't know what bike you're building, or what the rest of the components are, but you might decide your bike "deserves" nicer. But functionally, you don't need it.


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## JSWhaler (Nov 25, 2009)

Last season I upgrade my da 7900 bb to a ceramic because I wanted to see if there was any difference. Honestly, I can't tell the difference. My suggestion, get something middle of the road and forget about it.


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

Why should you? Because you want to. If you don't want to, don't.


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## nOOky (Mar 20, 2009)

This is a bicycling enthusiast forum. The question you should be asking yourself is "Why shouldn't I buy a $160 bottom bracket?".


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

thebikingcello said:


> What Crank are you using btw?


Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm planning to use a Sugino crank. Not sure which model as I'm still deciding what parts I'll need.

By the way, I wanted something cheaper for a crank, but it looks like it's hard to find one for under $100. My heart is set on the Sugino =)


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

JCavilia said:


> Phil Wood makes beautiful stuff, like industrial jewelry. It lasts essentially forever. But you don't "need" that unless you plan to ride this bike 100,000 miles.
> 
> Modern sealed-bearing bottom brackets are almost totally trouble-free, even the cheap ones. My rainy-day commuter bike has the cheap Shimano square-taper model UN-54, which you can get for 25 bucks or less. It has thousands of miles of abuse and I never pay the least attention to it. It's working fine. If it goes all crunchy one day I'll get another one.
> 
> So, IMHO, if you're talking function, more $ on the bb doesn't get you much, unless you need it to last forever and be real pretty. I don't know what bike you're building, or what the rest of the components are, but you might decide your bike "deserves" nicer. But functionally, you don't need it.


 I'm planning to get a nice steel frame randonneur bike. The frame/fork combo goes over $1800. So it's pretty nice, but not the nicest you could ever buy =)

The Phil Wood BB that I wanted is actually $115. The less expensive one that I was eyeing is by Velo-Orange and it cost $35. 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index....u-bottom-brackets-hollow-axle-alloy-cups.html


As you can see that's a considerable difference in price. Is it still worth getting the Phil Wood?


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

rkdvsm said:


> I'm planning to get a nice steel frame randonneur bike. The frame/fork combo goes over $1800. So it's pretty nice, but not the nicest you could ever buy =)
> 
> The Phil Wood BB that I wanted is actually $115. The less expensive one that I was eyeing is by Velo-Orange and it cost $35.
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index....u-bottom-brackets-hollow-axle-alloy-cups.html
> ...


The bike sounds nice, but you're getting out of my league, I'm afraid. I've never had a whole bike worth $1800. let alone a frame and fork. I guess you could think of it this way: You're spending close to $3000 on a bicycle. Is it worth an extra $80 for a bottom bracket that you can use for the rest of your life and probably leave to your kids? Hard call.

What about the rest of the components? Are you getting stuff that's in that tier?


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## UFLBret (Jul 20, 2011)

JSWhaler said:


> Last season I upgrade my da 7900 bb to a ceramic because I wanted to see if there was any difference. Honestly, I can't tell the difference. My suggestion, get something middle of the road and forget about it.


I've heard people can't tell a difference so imo it just isn't worth it. I'll save my money for something else.


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## dgeesaman (Jun 9, 2010)

rkdvsm said:


> I'm looking to get components for a build and was doing some research on bottom brackets. I think I know what they do, but I'm wondering if there is really any difference in performance between the $50 ones and the $160 ones.
> 
> The expensive ones I'm looking at are the Phil Wood BBs. Is there good reason to get these over the less expensive alternatives?


I put a Dura-Ace BB in my bike for $40. Maybe it was even less. It's smooth as silk, just like the $25 105 BB it replaced. Glad I didn't spend more. If there is any difference it might be in durability, but given what I know about bearing design, this is not a highly stressed or high speed bearing. (That's a roundabout way of saying I believe ceramic is a waste of money here)

I figure I can go through a couple of those $40 DuraAce BBs before a $160 BB is remotely worth considering.

Phil Wood makes nice stuff, for sure, but I'd rather spend the money on something else. My bike is a machine to be ridden, not exhibited at the MOMA.


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## mpcbike (May 12, 2009)

If you're talking square taper(and Phil/Sugino combo would suggest you are), then the Phill BB does stand far above the current crowd of "available" bb's. Shimano does not produce any "good" square taper bb's any more(even octalink is 105 ONLY now). The Phil BB will spin exceedingly smooth for a LONG time & then can be sent to Phil for a bearing replacement if it ever fails(likely will not). Prices for truly high quality square taper bb's are also far higher than external(unless you luck out and find n.o.s). If you wanna run square taper without worry for a long time, I'd say it's a very worthwhile investement!


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

I hear a lot of yay's and nay's about ceramics. To each his own. IMHO, it was worth every penny.

Numbers don't lie, right?......Put an Enduro XD-15 BB, ZERO pulley wheels and swapped bearings in the hubs on the GF's bike a while back. Next three rides documented over 1.5 mph faster average speed. Was it because the old BB, stock pulleys or standard Enduro bearings were crap?? Doubtful...

I'm sure there are countless arguments for and against ceramics but here's how I see it. Less resistance=more power getting to the pedals. Simple math. The more efficient you are the better. Yes, there are plenty of less expensive ways to get faster like...oh I don't know....TRAIN MORE, but anything that has mechanical friction is lose of power. If I can eliminate or lessen that lose, It's a net gain.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

> Less resistance=more power getting to the pedals. Simple math. The more efficient you are the better.


Yeah, simple math, except you didn't do any math. What if the part you're upgrading causes a tenth of a percent of the total resistance you're overcoming? If your bearings reduce that by half, you've reduced your total resistance by 1/2000. Sure it's more power getting to the road (not the pedals), but not much.

I just threw those numbers out there, but they may be in the ballpark (except I doubt the bearing change will reduce friction by anywhere near half). At typical road bike speeds, more than 90% of your work goes to overcome air resistance. That means ALL mechanical loss (tire slip, rolling resistance, friction in the chain (which almost has more moving parts than the rest of the bike) is less than 10% of your resistance. Good-quality steel bearings are very smooth already, and can't be contributing much of that. Any improvement due to ceramic bearings can't make much difference. 1.5 mph is inconceivable.

But new stuff is cool, and the placebo effect is powerful. Whatever works.


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

JCavilia said:


> Yeah, simple math, except you didn't do any math. What if the part you're upgrading causes a tenth of a percent of the total resistance you're overcoming? If your bearings reduce that by half, you've reduced your total resistance by 1/2000. Sure it's more power getting to the road (not the pedals), but not much.
> 
> I just threw those numbers out there, but they may be in the ballpark (except I doubt the bearing change will reduce friction by anywhere near half). At typical road bike speeds, more than 90% of your work goes to overcome air resistance. That means ALL mechanical loss (tire slip, rolling resistance, friction in the chain (which almost has more moving parts than the rest of the bike) is less than 10% of your resistance. Good-quality steel bearings are very smooth already, and can't be contributing much of that. Any improvement due to ceramic bearings can't make much difference. 1.5 mph is inconceivable.
> 
> But new stuff is cool, and the placebo effect is powerful. Whatever works.




Again I say to each his own and numbers don't lie. 

I'm quite aware that a very large % of the work we all do is used to overcome the air blowing in our faces and that the mechanical loss is substantially less. I'm also quite adept at reading a cyclocomputer as well as discerning whether or not I was faster or slower on that particular ride. Placebo effect? It's possible and I'd be a fool to say otherwise however, the numbers have been a constant since the day I swapped everything and nothing else has changed.

Maybe the BB, pulley wheels and hubs were all crap to begin with. I know FSA has a marginal reputation for BB quality so that's entirely possible and that thing had some miles on it. The pulley wheels could have been at the end of their life but seemed like they had some miles left in them. The hubs?...Bikehubstore SL's that come with Enduro bearings to start and were brand new...doubtful there. I do know that I spun the wheels I built in my truing stand before I swapped the bearings and they went 1:45.....with the ceramics, they went past 11 minutes.

If you're going all Vizzini on me then I need an honest, rational explanation for the numbers....she didn't suddenly get THAT much better overnight unless she's hiding a base layer with the big red letter S on it or taking "Go-Go" juice when I'm not looking.


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## xjbaylor (Dec 28, 2006)

dlhillius said:


> Again I say to each his own and numbers don't lie.
> 
> I'm quite aware that a very large % of the work we all do is used to overcome the air blowing in our faces and that the mechanical loss is substantially less. I'm also quite adept at reading a cyclocomputer as well as discerning whether or not I was faster or slower on that particular ride. Placebo effect? It's possible and I'd be a fool to say otherwise however, the numbers have been a constant since the day I swapped everything and nothing else has changed.
> 
> ...


I don't think it is even rational to contribute a minute portion of that 1.5mph gain to new bearings. At that rate she could add an aero helmet and a skinsuit and add another 10 mph. 
Some of the fastest GR stage times from the last few centuries still stand (or are at least competitive. If new bearings made such a huge difference imagine how different today's times would be with the aero bikes, wind tunnels, carbon fiber, etc.


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

xjbaylor said:


> I don't think it is even rational to contribute a minute portion of that 1.5mph gain to new bearings. At that rate she could add an aero helmet and a skinsuit and add another 10 mph.
> Some of the fastest GR stage times from the last few centuries still stand (or are at least competitive. If new bearings made such a huge difference imagine how different today's times would be with the aero bikes, wind tunnels, carbon fiber, etc.


Ok then..... I'm either a foolish shill trying to push products on you for no profit to me whatsoever or _something_ allowed her to do this and maintain it from Day 1 with the ceramics. Neither her diet, weight nor training have not changed. The only difference has been the wheelset I built, including ceramics, swapping the pulley wheels and replacing the BB. 

If this is the one case in history where all of this adds up to the change I've seen, so be it. All I know is what my eyes see and what my GF praises about her bike every time we ride. 

As for the skinsuit....that's a topic for a different forum.


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## Maximus_XXIV (Nov 10, 2008)

I think there are a few variables missing from your number crunching. Oh and controls. Maybe even a slight change in wheel diameter that accounts for the 1.5 mph on the computer.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

dlhillius said:


> Ok then..... I'm either a foolish shill trying to push products on you for no profit to me whatsoever or _something_ allowed her to do this and maintain it from Day 1 with the ceramics. Neither her diet, weight nor training have not changed. The only difference has been the wheelset I built, including ceramics, swapping the pulley wheels and replacing the BB.
> 
> If this is the one case in history where all of this adds up to the change I've seen, so be it. All I know is what my eyes see and what my GF praises about her bike every time we ride.
> 
> As for the skinsuit....that's a topic for a different forum.


Now way in HELL would ceramic bearings make here that much faster in any terrain. It's called the PLACEBO effect. Sorry dude. I use a like ceramic bearings, but not for speed.

Your post is my nominee for post of the year!


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

You can buy a lot of $25 BBs for $160.


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## xjbaylor (Dec 28, 2006)

Kontact said:


> You can buy a lot of $25 BBs for $160.


Winnar.


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## weiwentg (Feb 3, 2004)

These days, there aren't any good mid-range square taper BBs. it's either Phil, or something inexpensive. I've heard good feedback about V-O, so I'm sure their BB will do you just fine.

On Peter White's BB page, Specialties TA does appear to make some $98 BBs, but those are Campy taper only and they're not much less than a stainless Phil. I have a Phil - vanity being the only reason.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

weiwentg said:


> These days, there aren't any good mid-range square taper BBs. it's either Phil, or something inexpensive. I've heard good feedback about V-O, so I'm sure their BB will do you just fine.
> 
> On Peter White's BB page, Specialties TA does appear to make some $98 BBs, but those are Campy taper only and they're not much less than a stainless Phil. I have a Phil - vanity being the only reason.


Maybe not mid-line in price, but in quality? Wasn't a UN54 the 105/Ultegra level BB?


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

DIRT BOY said:


> Now way in HELL would ceramic bearings make here that much faster in any terrain. It's called the PLACEBO effect. Sorry dude. I use a like ceramic bearings, but not for speed.
> 
> Your post is my nominee for post of the year!


I didn't use the ceramics with the expectation of her being faster. That would be foolish. I did it because I love to spoil the hell out of her and I wanted high quality, durable products. The fact that we can do the same rides now and she can stay closer to my pace is a huge, unexpected bonus.

I'm a numbers guy....I get it and I've tried to make sense of it all hence the reason I went part by part trying to see where a difference like that could happen. The old wheelset was a pair of Röl D'Huez' and I KNOW those were a solid product. Stock shimano pulleys and FSA BB with about 2000 miles on them. 

Its been both my and her computer that show the gain. Do I really care where it can from???......nope, but I do know its there. She simply can hold a higher pace now for much longer with the same effort she's always used.


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

Kontact said:


> You can buy a lot of $25 BBs for $160.


Yes. I would want to buy one $160 BB over a bunch of $25 ones over the next several years. Thanks for all the advice. I'm still thinking about getting a Phil Wood or even the SKF BB.

But when I say better, I mean more durable (i.e. sealed and stainless steel) and functional. To me, better does not mean lighter.


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## jr59 (Mar 30, 2011)

dlhillius said:


> Ok then..... I'm either a foolish shill trying to push products on you for no profit to me whatsoever or _something_ allowed her to do this and maintain it from Day 1 with the ceramics. Neither her diet, weight nor training have not changed. The only difference has been the wheelset I built, including ceramics, swapping the pulley wheels and replacing the BB.
> 
> If this is the one case in history where all of this adds up to the change I've seen, so be it. All I know is what my eyes see and what my GF praises about her bike every time we ride.
> 
> As for the skinsuit....that's a topic for a different forum.


Agreed, either foolish or a shill!

The rest has already been said!


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

dlhillius said:


> I didn't use the ceramics with the expectation of her being faster. That would be foolish. I did it because I love to spoil the hell out of her and I wanted high quality, durable products. The fact that we can do the same rides now and she can stay closer to my pace is a huge, unexpected bonus.
> 
> I'm a numbers guy....I get it and I've tried to make sense of it all hence the reason I went part by part trying to see where a difference like that could happen. The old wheelset was a pair of Röl D'Huez' and I KNOW those were a solid product. Stock shimano pulleys and FSA BB with about 2000 miles on them.
> 
> Its been both my and her computer that show the gain. Do I really care where it can from???......nope, but I do know its there. She simply can hold a higher pace now for much longer with the same effort she's always used.


Well your numbers lie and in general they can lie. I don't care how much of a pace she can now hold.

The only way for the number NOT to lie, would be in a controlled setting. No wind, weather, etc. and using POWER (watts) numbers.

So say she gets on a trainer with a power meter. Now she rides and she can ride at the same power out put with regular bearings, she is now faster with ceramic bearings.

Do a test like this, I can can tell you her number would be sooo minute it not even funny.

Now use them them every wear because of my cost. Not for speed, but more for durability. I feel hybrid bearings can deal with grime and dirt more than regular bearings. Smoothness? Only place I have felt a difference was in the HS bearings.

I even sold off my DT Swiss 190 wheels and went with DT Swiss 240S because I say ZERO benefits to the 190's ceramics. Even though I know have hybrid bearings in my 240S. get what? ZERO difference.

Those are the facts! Those numbers would NO lie in the test I told you about.


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## Opus51569 (Jul 21, 2009)

As with most things cycling related, the difference between "good" and "better" is usually relatively cheap. The difference between "better" and "best" can be astronomical. Your $160 bottom bracket falls into that "best" category, but only you can answer whether it's truly worth the extra money.


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

DIRT BOY said:


> Well your numbers lie and in general they can lie. I don't care how much of a pace she can now hold.
> 
> The only way for the number NOT to lie, would be in a controlled setting. No wind, weather, etc. and using POWER (watts) numbers.
> 
> ...



For God sakes man....I'm not here for a pissing match. OK...you win. Feel better?

I've stated several times now that I cannot, with any certitude, know exactly why she is able to ride at the higher pace now, I just know she can and has been. I replaced parts and built a wheelset.....nothing else. If its a placebo effect then I'm thrilled. If the ceramics did or didn't make a difference....whatever. I'm just happy that my GF has a smile on her face again when we're riding.

To bring this conversation full circle, I'll simple restate what I did to start....

I hear a lot of yay's and nay's about ceramics. *To each his own.*

@jr59 Thanks for kind words. If you need me, I'll be cleaning the dog crap off that you so kindly rubbed my face in.


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## DIRT BOY (Aug 22, 2002)

dlhillius said:


> For God sakes man....I'm not here for a pissing match. OK...you win. Feel better?
> 
> I've stated several times now that I cannot, with any certitude, know exactly why she is able to ride at the higher pace now, I just know she can and has been. I replaced parts and built a wheelset.....nothing else. If its a placebo effect then I'm thrilled. If the ceramics did or didn't make a difference....whatever. I'm just happy that my GF has a smile on her face again when we're riding.
> 
> ...


Just don't use words like Numbers don't lie to prove your point in a argument when they are flawed. That's all. You stated she faster faster like its a FACT due to the bearings.


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

DIRT BOY said:


> Just don't use words like Numbers don't lie to prove your point in a argument when they are flawed. That's all. You stated she faster faster like its a FACT due to the bearings.


Point taken Sir.

When I stated that numbers don't lie, I was speaking to her increase in ave speed. Those numbers have increased. At the time I first posted, I didn't think in needed but I certainly could have done a better job of backing up my argument with formulas and specific numbers. However, she is faster and the only things that have changed are what I have stated....I have no other explanation hence my positive views of ceramics. She's happy....I'm happy....good enough for me:thumbsup:

I am neither an expert cyclist in any form nor claim to be. I simply have my observational skills as to what I have witnessed. I'm also not one who wishes to engage in pissing matches. I don't mind a debate and can appreciate your statements. They are reasonable and backed by far more years in this industry. I hope in the future, when I may need it, you'd be willing to impart some of your wisdom my way.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

rkdvsm said:


> Yes. I would want to buy one $160 BB over a bunch of $25 ones over the next several years. Thanks for all the advice. I'm still thinking about getting a Phil Wood or even the SKF BB.
> 
> But when I say better, I mean more durable (i.e. sealed and stainless steel) and functional. To me, better does not mean lighter.


My point was that a $25 BB will likely last a decade, and two $25 BBs will outlast most frames. What did the extra $110 do for you?

It's not like a Phil Wood can't rust.


That said, I worked on a bike yesterday that was built in the '80s with Phil hubs - still smooth. But the old Shimano BB was okay, too.

I had an $8 cartridge BB that was in my mountain bike for 15 years. Rust killed it, not cheapness. Some parts are worth splurging on (cranks, brake pads, hubs, front derailleurs) and some work no matter what they cost, like rear derailleurs.


Buy whatever BB you want, but don't fool yourself that you got some sort of value because you'll still be riding on the Phil in the 24th century.


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

Kontact said:


> My point was that a $25 BB will likely last a decade, and two $25 BBs will outlast most frames. What did the extra $110 do for you?
> 
> It's not like a Phil Wood can't rust.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I'm taking one point you said about some parts being worth splurging on and you mention front derailleurs. I was planning to get Tiagra front and rear derailleurs. What real benefit do I get from a more expensive frond derailleur?

Maybe I'll start another thread on this, but I really want to know the answer to that single question:

What are the real benefits to spending extra money on XXX parts? Real benefit is defined as increased performance and durability NOT less weight.


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

rkdvsm said:


> Thanks. I'm taking one point you said about some parts being worth splurging on and you mention front derailleurs. I was planning to get Tiagra front and rear derailleurs. What real benefit do I get from a more expensive frond derailleur?
> 
> Maybe I'll start another thread on this, but I really want to know the answer to that single question:
> 
> What are the real benefits to spending extra money on XXX parts? Real benefit is defined as increased performance and durability NOT less weight.


Tiagras shift very well - Shimano FDs and chainrings are the best shifting out there, even on the cheaper stuff. I'm a little surprised you would consider Tiagra as a match for a $160 BB or Sugino crankset, but the stuff works fine. 

"Performance" is working well under a certain weight when it comes to bicycles. Otherwise every part would be machined out of heat treated stainless steel. But the aluminum in those Sugino cranks are a great balance between durability and weight. Dura Ace cranks are made of the same stuff, but designed and forged in a manner that makes them stiff AND lighter than the Suginos.


My point about which parts to choose isn't necessarily about group levels. If I was going for total mix and match, I'd use one of the upper end Shimano cranks and FD, SRAM shifters and RD, DT hubs with a Shimano 105 cassette and Wipperman chain. That selection is neither heavy or fragile, but it all works well and lasts. Shimano's shifters are delicate in comparison to SRAM or Campy, but Campy shifting often less accurate, so there we are. (Though one of their 10 speed Centaur groups is a good balance, too.)

If I were interested in durability, I wouldn't sink money into a BB. Spend the cash where it counts in the most expensive parts, and get shifters that either don't wear out easily or are rebuildable. Replacing $300 shifters every 4 years is money wasted compared to replacing $25 BBs.


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## rkdvsm (Jul 15, 2006)

Kontact said:


> Tiagras shift very well - Shimano FDs and chainrings are the best shifting out there, even on the cheaper stuff. I'm a little surprised you would consider Tiagra as a match for a $160 BB or Sugino crankset, but the stuff works fine.
> 
> "Performance" is working well under a certain weight when it comes to bicycles. Otherwise every part would be machined out of heat treated stainless steel. But the aluminum in those Sugino cranks are a great balance between durability and weight. Dura Ace cranks are made of the same stuff, but designed and forged in a manner that makes them stiff AND lighter than the Suginos.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply. Yes. One thing you should know is that I am planning to do an 8-speed setup so I don't know if there are 105 8-speed components readily available for less money than the other models. I also planned to get downtube shifters because I'm setting up a steel-frame bike not intended for racing, but rather for long-distance riding that's going to be comfortable.

You really think that I shouldn't spend $150 on a high-end BB? I feel like the higher-end ones have sealant that protects it from the weather and other elemental problems.


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## config (Aug 16, 2002)

I upgraded my BB last year and went SRAM Red w/ ceramic bearings. It felt much faster but I think it was because my wallet was much lighter ;-) Honestly, for a recreational rider like myself, I would not be able to tell the difference. I would stick with a middle of the road BB and I'm certain you'd be fine.


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

DIRT BOY said:


> Now way in HELL would ceramic bearings make here that much faster in any terrain. It's called the PLACEBO effect. Sorry dude. I use a like ceramic bearings, but not for speed.
> 
> Your post is my nominee for post of the year!


Is it still a placebo effect if the person doesn't know that its supposed to make em faster?

:ear

M


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## dlhillius (Mar 21, 2011)

MShaw said:


> Is it still a placebo effect if the person doesn't know that its supposed to make em faster?
> 
> :ear
> 
> M


(Touching nose)


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## MShaw (Jun 7, 2003)

To add fuel to the fire:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/categ...review-ceramicspeed-mavic-1-bearings-11-45042

M


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