# Internal cable routing on handlebar



## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

My bike has internal cable routing on the frame and "external" routing on the handlebar (cable under bar tape)

I am considering a handlebar that has internal routing - but first...

I would have to yank the cable housing (and cable itself) out of the frame and re-fish it thru the new handlebar, then the frame again, correct?
I also don't want to pull the pinched cable back through a housing because I think that could damage the lining.

I believe this PITA is limited to the 2 shifter cables only, 
however the 2 brake cables might need to be replaced as well if the length end up incorrect, but unlikely.

How much of a PITA is it to run some new shifter cables through the frame with the original ones as a guide?


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## Kontact (Apr 1, 2011)

I would assume you'll have to replace derailleurs and maybe brake wires, too. You'll also have a harder time services you cables in the future. I can't see the point of such a switch.


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## Kerry Irons (Feb 25, 2002)

*Depends*



PoorCyclist said:


> My bike has internal cable routing on the frame and "external" routing on the handlebar (cable under bar tape)
> 
> I am considering a handlebar that has internal routing - but first...
> 
> ...


You are correct that you would have to pull the cables out of the frame in order to route them through the bars. This is because you cannot feed the cables any other way than through the shifters and brakes first. If you have casing that goes through the frame, that could probably stay in place.

There is a wide variation in how different frames treat internal cable systems, so how difficult it will be is a combination of how your bike is designed and how skilled you are as a mechanic.

It's obviously a matter of opinion, but what do you hope to "gain" by having your cables run through your bars?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

I am not happy with the OEM handlebar (too narrow).. 

So here I am shopping for another bar, I just wanted to know what is involved IF I get one of these with internal routing. It seems like it is too much work so I might just stick with regular handlebars.


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## Cut.Aussie (Mar 19, 2011)

I used Controltech Carbon Comp bars which feature individual tunnels for each cable, brake and gears, the advantage of the tunnels is that the cables don't "rattle" or make noises inside the bars unlike some bars where the cables flop around inside bars.
Controltech Bike

Completely re-cabling a bike is not such a big deal if you have the the hand tool and a Dremel for cutting the cables to length cleanly.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

dremel is definitely NOT necessary. good quality cable cutters and similar quality diagonal cutters are all you need. and a 'pokey tool' of some kind to open up the liner after you cut the housing.


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## looigi (Nov 24, 2010)

cxwrench said:


> dremel is definitely NOT necessary. good quality cable cutters and similar quality diagonal cutters are all you need. and a 'pokey tool' of some kind to open up the liner after you cut the housing.


Probably not required, but a Dremel or grinding wheel can give you perfectly square, cleanly cut housing ends, something no cable cutter can do. It's a matter of opinion how much if any benefit this provides.


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## 2cflyr (Apr 9, 2002)

first question: what make of frame is it? I ask as re-running cables/housing is MUCH easier on some bikes than others due to internal runs.

examples:
easy: felt, cannondale
medium: colnago
hard: kestrel, pinarello.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

Kerry Irons said:


> You are correct that you would have to pull the cables out of the frame in order to route them through the bars. This is because you cannot feed the cables any other way than through the shifters and brakes first. If you have casing that goes through the frame, that could probably stay in place.
> 
> There is a wide variation in how different frames treat internal cable systems, so how difficult it will be is a combination of how your bike is designed and how skilled you are as a mechanic.
> 
> It's obviously a matter of opinion, but what do you hope to "gain" by having your cables run through your bars?


Reading your response some more: I don't re-use pinched cables, so if I just buy the cable (wire) itself, would I be able to poke it through from the shifter to the derailleur through the maze of housing?


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## 2cflyr (Apr 9, 2002)

PoorCyclist said:


> Reading your response some more: I don't re-use pinched cables, so if I just buy the cable (wire) itself, would I be able to poke it through from the shifter to the derailleur through the maze of housing?


you might be able to run full-length housing, but it all depends on the bike and where the stops are placed.

edit to add: yes, if you're reusing housing, then feeding it shouldnt be too much of an issue.


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## cxwrench (Nov 9, 2004)

looigi said:


> Probably not required, but a Dremel or grinding wheel can give you perfectly square, cleanly cut housing ends, something no cable cutter can do. It's a matter of opinion how much if any benefit this provides.


true and true...once you've ridden the bike for a couple days, a perfectly cut housing end isn't the same as when you cut it. as long as the liner is opened up all the way and the cable doesn't encounter any drag when entering or exiting the housing (and you'll know, you can easily feel it), you're all good. i've just never seen the need to spend the time and effort to make such perfectly square cuts when it really doesn't matter. i can guarantee that there isn't one team mechanic out there using a dremel when they put housing on pro bikes.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

So the internal cable routes seem to be going from the top of top tube (about 2" behind the headset) and thru the downtube and exiting near the BB area, it seems to me, if the fork is removed might be easy to reach in and guide the exit. But I will probably have a shop work on this if it comes to it.

I do have experience cutting brake cables though, I use a sanding disc on a grinder to finish the cuts, I use a pedro's cutter and the cuts is barely acceptable, usually looks like a ball or deformed, I definitely prefer to grind it to the final length. One of the cuts that need to be relatively accurate for bar top brakes (from shifter to the lever).


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## 2cflyr (Apr 9, 2002)

PoorCyclist said:


> So the internal cable routes seem to be going from the top of top tube (about 2" behind the headset) and thru the downtube and exiting near the BB area, it seems to me, if the fork is removed might be easy to reach in and guide the exit. But I will probably have a shop work on this if it comes to it.
> 
> I do have experience cutting brake cables though, I use a sanding disc on a grinder to finish the cuts, I use a pedro's cutter and the cuts is barely acceptable, usually looks like a ball or deformed, I definitely prefer to grind it to the final length. One of the cuts that need to be relatively accurate for bar top brakes (from shifter to the lever).


there should be internal routing especially if it has that routing. what brand of bike is it?


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

2cflyr said:


> there should be internal routing especially if it has that routing. what brand of bike is it?


Litespeed C1, still waiting for it so I am going by pictures. The build kit comes with 38cm bars so I already know I will be changing that out.


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## 2cflyr (Apr 9, 2002)

litespeed should have internal routing, so you shouldn't have anything to worry about.


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## PoorCyclist (Oct 14, 2010)

2cflyr said:


> litespeed should have internal routing, so you shouldn't have anything to worry about.


When you say *internal routing* you mean there is some kind of tunnel thing inside the frame? How / what exactly is that, I have never seen one before.


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## Hanks (Sep 30, 2011)

*Request for Handlebar Pictures*

I too am curious as to the different ways of routing cables. I recently found out that if my shift cables come out of the brake hood itself, there is no way they can be concealed like some bikes I've seen. No cables is a very clean and highly desireable detail. For this I'm told by Shimano I'd have to have the new 105 (and up) brake lever assemblies. 










I'd like to see more photos of peoples handlebars as I'd like to more to a CF bar after I know what to buy after I know what I'm doing.

Thanks,

Hank :thumbsup:


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