# Looking For First Bike - Getting Discouraged



## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

*Nm*

Disregard


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## Rusted Angel (Sep 19, 2010)

UltralightHiker said:


> I have been looking for my first bike for about 3 months. I have been searching Craigslist, been to 3 local bike shops, eBay etc. I only have 400 or so to spend. Is there anything out there worth getting in that price range?
> 
> The lowest price bike at all 3 LBS was $1050, and that was for 2200/2300 components. I just do not have that kind of money to spend on something that I am not 100% committed to quite yet.
> 
> ...



Have you though about lay away plans at your LBS?

I am a low income guy who just can't make enough money to get a nice expensive bike but I went to the LBS and bout a 2010 Specialized Allez Sport at a discount price of about $750; I put 20% down and it was supposed to take me 3 months to get it out but I ended up going for almost 6 months; the salesman called me and asked me about it about 4-5 months after I initially put the bike in lay-away because I was not making a lot of progress but after I told him I would make little payments every week he said it was cool, the owners were kind enough to hole my bike until I paid it off.

I strongly recommend lay-away if money is short.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I don't think $400 is enough to do much of anything at retail.

I bought my commuter on Craig's List. It came in at just under $100. It needs more frequent attention than my nice bike, as many aging machines do. But it does a job, and if it fit me better, I'd be relatively content to train on it.

I bought the bike I commuted on in a previous city from a used bike shop. I had less time and a little more money at the time. I think used bike shops are a kickass value, especially if you don't already know your frame size - trying to narrow down good options on Craig's List is a pain, and sellers rarely give particularly good descriptions.

Do you know what kind of riding you want to do? People choose different equipment for laden touring vs. racing...


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Simply put, you're discouraged because your price range is severely limiting. 

About the only used bike you're apt to find for $400 or less is either going to be 'dated', in the state of disrepair, or both. That's not to say you _can't_ fare better, but it may take awhile.

New, you can find an online retailer selling for that price, but on top of all the pitfalls of buying online, you'll get their lower end offerings, which (judging from some posts here on RBR) are more likely to be trouble prone.

If doing so will accommodate your intended uses, my advice is to consider a hybrid (cheaper, easier to fit) or extend your budget by a couple of hundred. Remember too, that there are a number of required purchases (helmet, saddle bag, tire repair kits...) that you'll need to fund as well, so there needs to be a level of financial as well as physical commitment (to cycling) on your part. No different than any other sport.


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## Tommy Walker (Aug 14, 2009)

A lot of good advice here, $400 is nowhere near enough for a decent road bike purchased from your LBS. Craigslist, e-bay, etc are hit and miss. One thing you can do is to test ride as much as possible.


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## Tommy Walker (Aug 14, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> I realized quickly my budget was too small for an LBS (had no idea on prices going in). So at this point, would you recommend waiting 6 months or so to ride so I can save up another few hundred to get a bike at an LBS? Or take my chances with online/craigslist/ebay just to start riding? I have been searching craigslist for several months, but have not looked at online or ebay options.


You should test ride as much as you can and study to find out what you really want and formulate your budget from that. You can get a good some pretty good discounts at the end of the year on closeouts, so six months from now is a great time.

I can assure you that you won't regret putting some decent money into a good bike; you might want to think in the area of $2,000 or so to include the bike and some other equipment (helmet, pedals, shoes, etc.)


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

The problem with buying used is that it's hard for people new to cycling to know how well a bike fits or doesn't fit. A reputable LBS will make sure you leave with the right size, but you're on your own when you go online/used. Even though online is usually ~100-200 cheaper than a similar bike, the LBS will often have service plans and they'll take care of you. 

I'd just wait so you can get a real bike that does what you ned it to do.


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## jswilson64 (May 20, 2008)

UltralightHiker said:


> I realized quickly my budget was too small for an LBS (had no idea on prices going in). So at this point, would you recommend waiting 6 months or so to ride so I can save up another few hundred to get a bike at an LBS?


That sounds like a good plan. It takes a lot of effort to save up the cash, but it can be done. Over the late fall and winter I managed to stash away enough to put over $800 cash on the counter when I bought my bike in April. I hate credit cards so it was either save a little bit every paycheck, or go the layaway route. While you're saving, research a lot, and test-ride a lot of bikes.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Given some of your criteria (longer rides/ centuries) my advice is to focus on drop bar bikes. This means that fit becomes more critical and your budget increases. 

Ideally, you'd buy new from a reputable shop and get all the perks that come with it, but in the interim of saving to do that, you could casually peruse the CL ads in your area and visit some LBS's asking if they carry (or know of) a good source for used bikes. 

When buying locally, because you can see/ test ride the bikes you can minimize some of the risks of buying used, like bringing someone knowledgable along or bringing the bike to an LBS to get the size (and mechanical condition) assessed, assuming the seller agrees to that.


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## JCavilia (Sep 12, 2005)

If you live in an urban area of even moderate size, I really think you should be able to find something on CL in your price range that's good to get you started. I really don't agree with all the "wait and save up" advice. A first bike doesn't have to be perfect. It just has to fit and be in good working shape. Bikes are pretty easy to repair. 

And it's essentially meaningless to talk about it being "dated." We all get hung up on new technology, but road bikes worked damn well 15 years ago - and 25 years ago, for that matter. You don't need the latest bling to have something that's functional and fun to ride.

The essential thing is to learn something about basic fit, so you can find a bike of the right size. If you have a friend who knows cycling, that would be ideal, because somebody could help you evaluate the condition of bikes being sold.

You want to get a bike and ride. You don't want to let a whole summer go by while you're figuring out what to buy. There are lots of bikes out there.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> The lowest price bike at all 3 LBS was $1050, and that was for 2200/2300 components. I just do not have that kind of money to spend on something that I am not 100% committed to quite yet.


Where are you that a 2200 bike is selling for $1050???

I have two 2200/2300 bikes in the shop - the Torker Interurban at $580 and the Raleigh Revenio 1.0 at $680.

$1050 should be a Tiagra bike, at least.


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## Blackss06 (Feb 26, 2011)

If you need around a 52cm frame there's the Triace S503 from Walmart, $480 shipped after tax, or you can catch it on sale for $50 less. I've put 1k miles on mine and it's held up great.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> I realized quickly my budget was too small for an LBS (had no idea on prices going in). So at this point, would you recommend waiting 6 months or so to ride so I can save up another few hundred to get a bike at an LBS? Or take my chances with online/craigslist/ebay just to start riding? I have been searching craigslist for several months, but have not looked at online or ebay options.
> 
> As for the type of riding, mostly excercise. But my LBS has group rides every night after work, and longer rides just about every weekend. I have always loved doing that kind of thing in a group (hiking etc) so I will probably do that as well. Maybe at some ponit do a century.


I'm okay with older bikes. For me, the most important thing is fit. The commuter I alluded to doesn't fit me that well, so I'd probably hate cycling if I tried to do a century on it. But I did 80 miles, laden, on a different bike from that period (mid-80s) about ten years ago, and it was fine. As long as everything works - and bikes from before integrated shifters took over are actually a little easier to maintain and tune - and the bike fits well, you have the main things you need. For the sake of disclosure, I do also have a 1999 road bike that I ride regularly and has a few newer parts on it as well, and an '09 'cross bike. If I'm riding recreationally or I was doing a century, I'd pick the road bike, with the 'cross bike a close second. However, if the commuter fit me better and I put a racier saddle and some clipless pedals on it, I'd be happy enough to do 100 miles with downtube shifters.

Most of my cycling friends have some redundancy in their bikes. Cyclists can also be pretty evangelistic about the sport. One of my friends rode my 'cross bike for about six months, and while I'll never lend her or her ex-boyfriend any cycling equipment again, I haven't completely lost my faith in humanity. Maybe you can have your cake and eat it too. See if you can borrow a bike for a while that's reasonably close to your size. This isn't going to be free either - you're still going to need cycling clothes, a helmet, gloves, a few tools, etc., maybe pedals or a saddle, but it takes care of the single largest expense. You can start riding while you save up some money for your own bike, and you may be able to learn what you need to about sizing to make an informed choice about a catalog bike, or at least narrow down your options on Craig's List to the ones that are actually feasible for you.


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## BeginnerCycling (Jun 4, 2011)

While I think it's best for a new cyclist to buy from a Local Bike Store (LBS) if possible, those prices you are seeing are too high. You should be able to get an entry level Trek or Giant for under $800, and the Raleigh Revenio 1.0 mentioned above is also sold at REI (not sure where you are in TN, but there's one store there).

Here are some other places to look online for new bikes at discount prices:
www.PerformanceBike.com (sometimes they have good deals ($400 to $500) on the Fuji Newest, which is decent bike for a beginner)
www.Nashbar.com (the Nashbar-branded road bikes get pretty good consumer reviews)
www.BikesDirect.com (has a few bikes in your range)
Also check out Chicabike's store on eBay: http://myworld.ebay.com/chicabike/

None of these will make the die-hard roadies drool, but I don't think it is necessary for a beginner to wait six months and spend $2,000 on a bike. Buy a bike that fits your budget, and get started riding!

Best,
Rob


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## jsk0307 (Apr 25, 2011)

With that budget, I'd probably consider buying something from BikesDirect. They have several bikes to choose from in that price range. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> I actually need a 56cm frame according to my LBS. I do not see that one on their site. Is it still available?


56cm is a relative number because companies don't size their bikes the same as their competition might. The same can easily be seen with shoes.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

With your current budget, and the fact that your local dealer is apparently fleecing the flock, I'd go for this one:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/miragesport_xi.htm


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## Tommy Walker (Aug 14, 2009)

PlatyPius said:


> With your current budget, and the fact that your local dealer is apparently fleecing the flock, I'd go for this one:
> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/miragesport_xi.htm


WOW, Platy pushing Bikes Direct, it must be hot in Indy.


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## Rusted Angel (Sep 19, 2010)

UltralightHiker said:


> I realized quickly my budget was too small for an LBS (had no idea on prices going in). So at this point, would you recommend waiting 6 months or so to ride so I can save up another few hundred to get a bike at an LBS? Or take my chances with online/craigslist/ebay just to start riding? I have been searching craigslist for several months, but have not looked at online or ebay options.
> 
> As for the type of riding, mostly excercise. But my LBS has group rides every night after work, and longer rides just about every weekend. I have always loved doing that kind of thing in a group (hiking etc) so I will probably do that as well. Maybe at some ponit do a century.


I strongly recommend lay-away.


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## Erion929 (Jun 10, 2010)

Rusted Angel said:


> I strongly recommend lay-away.




Why? Either just save your money up or buy something you can afford. Why commit to lay-away when you don't even know what you want or what you can afford....or even if you want to do business with that shop in the future.


When you are new to a hobby there can be much to learn. Six months from now he's likely to have a different thought on what he wants/needs.

**


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## Tommy Walker (Aug 14, 2009)

Rusted Angel said:


> I strongly recommend lay-away.


Let's say he puts his $400 down on a $1,600 bike and lay's it away for 6 months. He will make $200 payments for 6 months and he can have the bike in December; but in November, that $1,600 bike is going to be reduced 20% or cost $1,280, so he could actually buy the bike in November and only needs to save $176 a month.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

JCavilia said:


> And it's essentially meaningless to talk about it being "dated." We all get hung up on new technology, but road bikes worked damn well 15 years ago - and 25 years ago, for that matter. You don't need the latest bling to have something that's functional and fun to ride.


My comment wasn't in the vein of getting hung up on technology (ex: I used d/ tube shifters till three years ago). Rather, it was implying that older bikes (if you prefer) can be money pits to repair. Sure, those bike of a decade or two performed well... _back then_, but this is now and many haven't been maintained/ stores very well, so any problems encountered can be costly (given the OP's price range). 

I do agree (and stated such previously) that the OP could be scouting out CL ads and asking around at bike shops while saving to increase his purchasing options. 

OP: FWIW, as many have stated, it's important to get sizing/ fit right, and if you don't know those requirements use caution if buying online.


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UltralightHiker said:


> I have received a ton of advice from everyone. Thanks for being so welcoming. I am going to keep watching craigslist, saving slowly, and continue to look at my online options. I want to ride, and I have already let 3 months go by.
> 
> The bike that was posted from the online option looks interesting. Is the Wellington 3.0 any better/worse than the Motobecane that was suggested to me? They are the same price.
> 
> ...


Since you're focusing on shopping online, a couple of thoughts...

As has been mentioned, there are no standards for measuring to determine frame size, so the numbers affixed to frames (or posted on websites) is somewhat arbitrary. That said, it's best to determine your sizing requirements _before_ shopping for brands/ models. One way to accomplish this is to visit a reputable LBS, explain that you're considering buying online and ask for a standard fitting. It'll cost you about $50, but will better your odds of ordering the correctly sized bike. 

Armed with the geometry of the test bike, you can then shop online for a bike with similar geo. When the bike arrives, you'll need to bring it to your LBS for final assembly, tuning and a fitting. Since the fitting comes _after_ sizing, it's important to get the sizing right, because if you guess wrong, a fitter will need to make compromises to get your fit right, and it may never feel quite right to you. 

If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, I think you'll do fine maintaining (and in the future tearing down/ reassembling a bike). There are a wealth of resources online, including the Park tools website and this forum. 

Last thought. Given your limited budget, keep in mind that your LBS sizing, final assembly, fitting and any component swaps needed (stems, etc.) during the fitting are all hidden expenses when buying online - and normally included when buying from an LBS. Something to keep in mind when making your decision.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Last thought. Given your limited budget, keep in mind that your LBS sizing, final assembly, fitting and any component swaps needed (stems, etc.) during the fitting are all hidden expenses when buying online - and normally included when buying from an LBS. Something to keep in mind when making your decision.


With what you save on sticker price on online bikes, you'll more than likely spend at the LBS in service. This is how they've stayed in business. 

I'm hardly a fan of being separated from my $ or spending $, but I'm the type who enjoys doing it right the first time.


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

Just out of curiosity, what bikes with 2200/2300 are they trying to sell for $1050? That has me really perplexed....


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UltralightHiker said:


> I am not necessarily dead set on shopping online. I can, however, say it would be AT LEAST 6-8 months before I could buy a bike at the LBS stores I have visited. Not to mention tax + accessories. At the end of the day *I have been shopping for 3 months and am just getting anxious to ride*.


A couple of years back I crashed, broke my collarbone and was off the bike for 7 weeks, so I feel your pain, so to speak.

Personally, I think buying used in your area trumps buying online (new or used), because you'd get to see and test ride a bike before deciding. Obviously, there are pitfalls going this route as well, but bringing someone along that's knowledgable (ideally in both fit and mechanics) will help you avoid many of them.. or at least better your odds of success. 

In lieu of that (and as mentioned in a previous post) ask the seller if you can bring the bike to an LBS for sizing/ mechanical assessment.


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## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

Pretty much. 

Keep in mind that bikes can last a long time, provided they're taken care of and not crashed. My first road bike is about 5-6 years old and still going strong.


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## BeginnerCycling (Jun 4, 2011)

UltralightHiker said:


> It was a Fuji. Honestly not sure which. He just said it was 1050 and would not even get me Sora components. He noted I was in good physical condition, so told me to skip a "beginner" bike and get something in the Tiagra range, which if I am not mistaken was around $1575.


I'm guessing it was either a Fuji Newest or Fuji Roubaix. You can see the MSRP for these at http://www.fujibikes.com -- so it would seem they were quoting above MSRP, but you can often find these significantly lower than MSRP.


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

I bought my first road bike in 2000. I've had to replace a few pieces, but it's still got a ton of original components, and many of those I changed were to do with fit. I finally killed the original rims last winter, but the hubs are fine - just laced new rims to them, actually - and while the rear derailleur is getting a little worn, it's taken me a long time and some winters of riding in the rain and on wet roads to wear it out.

My oldest road bike was made in the mid-80s. It's my commuter, so it gets thrashed in a way my nicer one doesn't. My 'cross bike is my newest, and sees little ride time, but goes through parts faster. Might have something to do with mud...


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## Erion929 (Jun 10, 2010)

Here's a Fuji, size 56, for $400....in Lenoir City, wherever that is 

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/bik/2424782013.html




Here's a Cannondale for $300, near Nashville, wherever that is 

http://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/2434562538.html


**


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> So my wife has actually come up with a cool idea. I have a birthday coming up. I am going to put up the 4-500 I was going to spend, she is going to add what she was going to spend on a gift, along with asking her/my family to pitch in what they were going to spend as well. That puts me much closer. With all that, plus me saving up an extra ~200 or so, I have enough to buy a bike in the 1100 range. With that budget, what should I be looking for? Can I get 105 level components? Or is that Tiagra range? Can you get a sub 20lb bike in this range?


Raleigh Revenio 3.0 has 105 and retails for $1250, so you're definitely close.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UltralightHiker said:


> So my wife has actually come up with a cool idea. I have a birthday coming up. I am going to put up the 4-500 I was going to spend, she is going to add what she was going to spend on a gift, along with asking her/my family to pitch in what they were going to spend as well. That puts me much closer. With all that, plus me saving up an extra ~200 or so, *I have enough to buy a bike in the 1100 range. With that budget, what should I be looking for?* Can I get 105 level components? Or is that Tiagra range? Can you get a sub 20lb bike in this range?


My answer? A reputable LBS. Shop for shops along with a bike, because a really good one will take the time to work with you and suggest bikes that are not only in your price range, but will also suite your intended purposes and have geo that fits you well.

As far some brands/ models to choose from:
C'dale CAAD 8 6
C'dale Synapse Alloy 6
Giant Defy 2
Specialized Secteur Sport
Spec Allez Sport
Bianchi Volpe (steel)
Felt F85
Felt Z100

Among others....

I've included both race and relaxed geo bikes here, but your best bet is to visit the dealers, discuss your specific uses, fitness/ flexibility and go on some test rides - out on the roads and for some duration. That's the best way to get a feel for the fit, ride and handling of the bikes and decide on your preferences.


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## Sesom (Jun 12, 2011)

Rusted Angel said:


> Have you though about lay away plans at your LBS?
> 
> I am a low income guy who just can't make enough money to get a nice expensive bike but I went to the LBS and bout a 2010 Specialized Allez Sport at a discount price of about $750; I put 20% down and it was supposed to take me 3 months to get it out but I ended up going for almost 6 months; the salesman called me and asked me about it about 4-5 months after I initially put the bike in lay-away because I was not making a lot of progress but after I told him I would make little payments every week he said it was cool, the owners were kind enough to hole my bike until I paid it off.
> 
> I strongly recommend lay-away if money is short.


Doesn't your bike just sit on a shelf in the back of the store while it's on lay-away? If so that makes no sense. Seems like it would be a better idea to keep the money in an ongoing savings account and keep one eye on classifieds or deals and as time goes buy the bike fund will grow.

I'm looking for my first road bike and I have been to some shops and searched online. I've noticed that the LBS never have any road bikes under $800 that I have seen. But I have also noticed that some online sites seems to carry bikes that are closer to your price range that have the same brands as the $800 LBS road bikes.


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## UltralightHiker (Jun 9, 2011)

Disregard


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

UltralightHiker said:


> I met a member on here that lives close by (works right across the street!) He directed me to a few shops locally, one in particular I did not find in my internet searches. I went in today at lunch and the guys knew their stuff, and were very helpful. Were not trying to upsell me at all. I did not have a ton of time to spend today, but they carry FELT and Cannondale mainly. Any input on the CAAD8 (8 6 would be the one in my budget) along with the FELT F85 and Z85? Any of them glaringly better than the others? The only difference I saw was that the Z85 had full 105 and the F85 had 105 with microshifts.
> 
> They also had some around the 850ish range (Z100 and F95). Would those be a major step down?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


As we like to say here, fit matters most, so the best thing to do is take some time to get set up on the bikes of interest and head out (on the roads) for test rides. 

Of the bikes you've mentioned, both the Felt F95 and CAAD8 are what's commonly referred to as race bikes - generally having somewhat shorter wheelbases and head tube lengths when compared to bikes with more relaxed geo (commonly referred to as endurance bikes). The differences aren't great, but the endurance bikes (in this case, the Z series) allow for a slightly more upright rider position and (in part, because of the longer wheelbase) more predictable handling. 

Some call 'race' bikes twitchy, and some call endurance bikes boring or 'slow to respond', so (again) test rides are important for you to sort this all out and determine your preferences.

As far as the specs of the lower end bikes you listed; IMO the differences are _mainly_ with the drivetrains, but the frames and wheelsets will add a little weight. Both the Felt Z100, F95 and C'dale CAAD8 have 9 speed drivetrains, while the others are 10. The C'dale uses Tiagra shifters while the Z100 and F95 use MicroShifts. To (somewhat) compensate for the 9 spd drivetrains, a couple of the bikes either come with or have the option of triple (as opposed to compact) cranksets. No matter the price range you decide on, I suggest discussing gearing options with your LBS's, because the terrain you'll ride and your fitness will play a role in determining what's best.

The bottom line (IMO) is that any of these bikes are nice 'first bikes'. The goal is to work with a reputable shop or shops to match the best fit on the bike that also best suites your intended use.


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## psycholess (Jun 23, 2011)

I suggest you go get a KHS Flite 220. You can get a 2010 model for about $400. It has 2300 on it. I just bought one for my wife as her first roadie.


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## JC477 (Jun 23, 2011)

UltralightHiker said:


> So my wife has actually come up with a cool idea. I have a birthday coming up. I am going to put up the 4-500 I was going to spend, she is going to add what she was going to spend on a gift, along with asking her/my family to pitch in what they were going to spend as well. That puts me much closer. With all that, plus me saving up an extra ~200 or so, I have enough to buy a bike in the 1100 range. With that budget, what should I be looking for? Can I get 105 level components? Or is that Tiagra range? Can you get a sub 20lb bike in this range?


I've been looking at bikes and what your local dealer quoted you seems high. Like you, I am on a budget, therefore I have been doing a lot of shopping and researching. I know my lbs' have bikes under $1000 with better than 2300 components. These are at a Specialized and Trek dealer. You may want to look at different shops. Go to the bike manufactuers' websites you like and look up dealers in your area. I think you can get a better deal.


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## tew22 (Jun 13, 2011)

*Trek 1.1*

I'm buying a bike within the next 4 weeks or so and the trek 1.1 seems like a good entry level bike.

Are the 2300's any good/is sora that much better to spend the extra couple hundred bucks?


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

tew22 said:


> I'm buying a bike within the next 4 weeks or so and the trek 1.1 seems like a good entry level bike.
> 
> Are the 2300's any good/is sora that much better to spend the extra couple hundred bucks?


They function/ perform pretty much the same, but FWIW 2300 is 8 speed ( 8 cogs at the rear) and Sora has 9. IMO/E depending on terrain, 9 speed does offer some advantages. 10 is sometimes overkill (again, IMO).


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## Quebec (Jun 26, 2010)

stuck with about the same dilemma, nothing at the lbs under 1000$ for a road bike and those run 2300. I've dealt with bikesdirect once before and it was great, I will probably order from them again, just checking prices now.


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## flatsix911 (Jun 28, 2009)

UltralightHiker said:


> So my wife has actually come up with a cool idea. I have a birthday coming up. I am going to put up the 4-500 I was going to spend, she is going to add what she was going to spend on a gift, along with asking her/my family to pitch in what they were going to spend as well. That puts me much closer. With all that, plus me saving up an extra ~200 or so, I have enough to buy a bike in the 1100 range. With that budget, what should I be looking for? Can I get 105 level components? Or is that Tiagra range? Can you get a sub 20lb bike in this range?


Take a look at this sub 20 lb model for under $1100 ... :thumbsup:
*Shimano 105/Tiagra/FSA 27 speed Century Comp $1095*
Full Carbon Frame, FSA Cranks, Shimano Wheels, Ritchey Bar, Stem, FSA Carbon Post

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/centurycomp_08_carbon.htm


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## tew22 (Jun 13, 2011)

How important is the range of gears for a beginner? I'll be riding in a relatively flat area (Philadelphia) and don't plan on racing anytime soon.

Is 8 or 9 enough to keep me satisfied?


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## AndrwSwitch (May 28, 2009)

That depends.

If you find yourself wondering that all the time, probably not. You may or may not be disappointed when you finally spend the money on the new shifters and cassette.

For me, the big advantage to a bike with more gears is sort of a "have my cake and eat it too" thing. I have a relatively narrow band of cadences I like, so wide gear spacing annoys me. I'm also happiest at high cadences and I'm more of a mountain biker, so do a good chunk of most extended climbs in the saddle, so I like having some really low gears. IIRC, I had an 11-25 9-speed cassette on my road bike for a long time. When I got 10-speed shifters, I switched to a 12-27 10-speed cassette, which gave me both a lower ratio and slightly closer spacing. My bike has a (gasp) triple crank, so I can maintain a nice spin at climbs that have me at under 10mph. Pretty cool, IME. Still, I was pretty happy with my 9-speed setup, and wouldn't have bothered to replace my shifters if it was just for one extra cog.

For comparison, my commuter bike has a 6-speed freewheel with a 14-28 range. When I'm riding at low effort, the shifts feel fine. But when I'm really pushing myself, maybe climbing a hill, I sometimes feel like downshifting takes me to too low a gear, and the gear I want is somewhere in between. This is not that big a deal, given the purpose of the bike. I just have to remind myself that nobody's going to give me a prize for getting to the top of a climb a few seconds faster, go with the lower gear, and be happy.

All of which is to say that I think the only people for whom more speeds might be a real advantage are those doing workouts at peak power, or those who may sometimes have to maintain an arbitrary speed and want to be able to select the right cadence for it, like in a fast group ride. Even then, if you don't have big hills in your area, just going with an old-school racing-style cassette, with tight ratios, will take care of you. Cycle tourists sometimes like tight ratios too, although I think I see more touring bikes set up with really broad gear ranges, to handle everything from unladen, faster rides to dragging 60 lb of stuff up a mountain pass.


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## tew22 (Jun 13, 2011)

AndrwSwitch said:


> That depends.
> 
> If you find yourself wondering that all the time, probably not. You may or may not be disappointed when you finally spend the money on the new shifters and cassette.
> 
> ...



Thanks for your advice - I still need to get out and take some bikes for test rides. I'm sure that will lend some good insight.


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## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

tew22 said:


> Thanks for your advice - I still need to get out and take some bikes for test rides. I'm sure that will lend some good insight.


I agree that test rides will provide some insight, as long as they're done on roads and in terrain that mirrors where you'll be riding.

You might find that a triple/ compact (or even standard double) matters as much (or more than) whether there are 8 or 9 cogs at the rear. FWIW, no matter the configuration, I completely agree with Andrew on the importance of keeping the ratios fairly tight, but I'm a stickler on maintaining what I call a rhythm (or, fairly constant cadence).


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## kit352 (May 15, 2011)

id go the craigslist route to get you on the bike and see if you like it before dropping tons on a new bike. as long as you have a good idea on the frame size you should be looking at itll get you in the ballpark for used. 
heres a little story about how i went about it the wrong way. my wife wanted to ride with me on my bike so i got her a new scott for $1200. it was a nice bike and it got her into riding. she used it alot for a few weeks and probably put 3-400 miles on it. I picked up a decent 1986 fuji team at a yard sale for $20 just to play around on. it was decent but not perfect. I did a quick tune on it and it ended up being a nice little ride. well my wife took it out and absolutely loved it. thats all she rides now and ive only got 50 bucks into. so after the new bike, the custom fitting, the added parts she decided she liked the old one better so i waisted all that money on the scott that just sits in my shed. she now has about 1k miles on the fuji and rides it everyday. I wish i went my usual cheap route instead of getting her a brand new bike.


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