# Campagnolo Brake Pads



## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi,

I hve what I believe are Super Record brakes. Please see image. These are NOS and way to hard. They are grinding my rims and there is aluminum embedded in the pads!

I need replacements but have had not luck.

Are the pads themselves removable?

What is a good replacement?

Any luck with rubber rejuvenators?

Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Warren


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

Hi Warren,

I don't see an image, so it's not possible to say what you have.

Campagnolo authorized dealers should be able to obtain replacement pads for you once you identify your brakes.

Campy publishes "spares" catalogs for their components, and these catalogs contain exploded views with part numbers. Here is the page for the 2009 Record brakes.










Kool-Stop is an aftermarket brake pad manufacturer who might have replacement pads for your brakes.

Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

There is no image but you should be able to find what you're looking for at the link. 
Old pads will harden over time, you could try and take some sandpaper to the stopping surface to spruce them up a bit, but new pads aren't that expensive.
And yes, the pads are removable from the holders.

BRAKE PADS

KOOL STOP NUOVO RECORD BRAKE PADS


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

*Photos....*

Hopefully these are seen.

Warren


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

Late seventies. The brake pads are p/n 2010. THESE Kool-Stop pads should work. I really like the salmon (reddish color) pads.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

*Thanks!*

Folks at the local bike shop weren't sure and thought they may be molded around the post and attempting to remove them would damage them.

These are so stuck in there I believed them. I suppose a bit of oil and patience the way to go but at least now I know I can carve them out if need be.

Kool Stops ordered and on the way!

Thanks Again,

Warren


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## Bill Silverman (Apr 2, 2007)

Warren:

I've had success removing old brake pads with rubbing alcohol (not oil). I carefully support the end of the metal pad holder just off of a scrap of plywood and begin driving out the oil pad with a dull screwdriver and a hammer. Once the old pad starts coming out, I sometimes will grab the rubber pad with pliers and wiggle it out of the holder.

If your bike shop thinks that Campy brake pads are molded to the threaded post it's time to look for another bike shop.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

Bill Silverman said:


> Warren:
> 
> I've had success removing old brake pads with rubbing alcohol (not oil). I carefully support the end of the metal pad holder just off of a scrap of plywood and begin driving out the oil pad with a dull screwdriver and a hammer. Once the old pad starts coming out, I sometimes will grab the rubber pad with pliers and wiggle it out of the holder.
> 
> If your bike shop thinks that Campy brake pads are molded to the threaded post it's time to look for another bike shop.


I tried this method and was able to gently ease a pad out. So as soon as the new ones show up I'll be all set.

Thanks,

Warren


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## Bill Silverman (Apr 2, 2007)

Warren:

And when you install the new pad, use the rubbing alcohol again. Makes the pad go in a LOT easier than pushing it in dry.

Large slip-jaw pliers work good for installing new brake pads. Put some masking tape on the serrated jaws to avoid marring the metal brake pad holders.

Good luck. And remember to clean your wheel rims too! For cleaning rims I use the stronger stuff: denatured alcohol on a paper towel. And I wear rubber gloves.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

Thanks Bil!

W


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

Warren, one more thing.

When you apply your brakes, the forward rotation of the top of your wheel rim tends to make the pads slide forward in the holder. Make sure when you reassemble the holders to the calipers that the closed end of the holder is on the front so the pad can't slide out of the holder when you brake. It's so intuitive you'd think people wouldn't make the mistake of assembling it backwards, but I've seen it happen more than once.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

Scooper said:


> Warren, one more thing.
> 
> When you apply your brakes, the forward rotation of the top of your wheel rim tends to make the pads slide forward in the holder. Make sure when you reassemble the holders to the calipers that the closed end of the holder is on the front so the pad can't slide out of the holder when you brake. It's so intuitive you'd think people wouldn't make the mistake of assembling it backwards, but I've seen it happen more than once.



Yep!

In fact my bike was set up that way! Yikes! I noticed as I was doing all this.

BTW I was adjusting the entire caliper and think I did it right. But centering the pads was tricky. I loosened it all up and tweaked the spring in the rear brake center bolt. In the diagram you provided it's part 2012, but mine has an allen set screw accessible in the frame end and a nut and cap screw in the caliper end.

I just kind of moved and tightened back and forth until it centered. I suppose that's how you do it.

Oh yea! I noticed the pads ride a bit too high up the rim but are bottomed out in the adjustment oval cut outs. Any fix for this? I figure I could taper the pads at least but can not find a point of adjustment anywhere....

I do have the Campy dropouts that are forward facing with the adjustment screws and it is maxed out forward. Could bringing the wheel back be the solution? New chain or some links needed if I do?

Sorry for all the questions at once but I'm wrenching!


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## paredown (Oct 18, 2006)

warrena said:


> Yep!
> 
> In fact my bike was set up that way! Yikes! I noticed as I was doing all this.
> 
> ...


Glad you got the pads installed.

You should be able to use the adjusters to move the wheel back in the dropouts without lengthening the chain, but you should definitely drip a little PBBlaster or WD40 on the screws and then let them marinate for a couple of days--those screws have a nasty habit of snapping off (and usually in the fork end) and they are a PITA to remove. 

Moving the wheel back should move it up slightly (with the older horizontal dropouts.)

There are a couple of old tricks for not quite enough height--one is to loosen the brake body mounting nut or allen form the back (with cable slack) and make sure that the whole brake body is as far down on the mounting hole as possible--there is sometimes a little play on the bolt--sometimes you can even roll/pivot them a little more down towards the wheel. Keep some downward pressure on the body when you tighten it back up.

The other method is to find a rat-tail file that is an appropriate size and vary carefully lengthen the slots a little--mark them on both sides and file appropriately. There is usually enough meat there that a little lengthening won't hurt.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

warrena said:


> Oh yea! I noticed the pads ride a bit too high up the rim but are bottomed out in the adjustment oval cut outs. Any fix for this? I figure I could taper the pads at least but can not find a point of adjustment anywhere....


Are you sure that the bike wasn't built for 27inch wheels and now has 700c wheels mounted?


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

paredown said:


> The other method is to find a rat-tail file that is an appropriate size and vary carefully lengthen the slots a little--mark them on both sides and file appropriately. There is usually enough meat there that a little lengthening won't hurt.


They're pricey, if you can find them, but I'd go with a set of these before I took a file to a set of nice super record brakes.


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

velodog said:


> They're pricey, if you can find them, but I'd go with a set of these before I took a file to a set of nice super record brakes.


Campagnolo drop bolts are rarer than hens' teeth, but I bookmarked this guy's website a while back because he makes new ones that look nice. I haven't ever seen one of these, much less used one, so I can't vouch for their quality or reliability, but they sure look nice.

Bicycle Brake Drop Bolt Harmony Water antique restoration

For comparison, here's a photo of the original Campy p/n 2012/2 drop bolt on VeloBase:

http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=bbcbb211-1445-4dfd-bba2-9d3709410cd0&Enum=103


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## David Loving (Jun 13, 2008)

Branford has brake pads galore

Brakes/Levers/Pads - Branford Bike - Seattle/Bellevue - Campagnolo Pro Shop


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

*Cool!*

Wow I live those little cottage industry doo-dads that folks come up with!

For now I just filed down the brake shoes. I lost a little surface area. I haven't had a chance to really try at speed if effects performance but I suspect not much.

The bike is a basically brand new Andy Gilmour. I can't figure out why anyone would sell it. It was obviously spec'ed out around a NOS Campy Record and Super Record group and never ridden as far as I can tell. The Mavic MA-40's were immaculate.

That said it's curious the brakes are off by that much...They should be centered in the ovals right?

Still the best bike I ever rode. Eases you into corners and gently pulls ya out! I love steel bikes!

Thanks,

Warren


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## dookie (Oct 1, 2007)

i'll 2nd the kool stop salmon rec. they work very well and are rim friendly.

my trick for removal is to put the pad in a bench vice...you can get the holder right down on top of (but not in!) the jaws, then gently compress the pad and slide the holder off. rubbing alcohol in the gaps after the squeeze makes it childs' play.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

velodog said:


> Are you sure that the bike wasn't built for 27inch wheels and now has 700c wheels mounted?


That I could not say....It's an Andy Gilmour I purchased "used". Doubt if it was ever really used it was so clean. It's a full Campy Record and Super Record group that had to have been spec'd with the build. Front brakes align perfectly....

Weird...

BTW And I will post this elsewhere, what is the dela with the Campy adjustable dropouts? Should they be adjusted towards the front or the back to start?
I can't imagine the advantage other than wheel alignment...but even then...

Thanks,

Warren


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

warrena said:


> That I could not say....It's an Andy Gilmour I purchased "used".
> Thanks,
> 
> Warren


Gilmour Bicycles

Contact the builder and ask about the bike.


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## onespeedbiker (May 28, 2007)

The reason the rear brakes are a little off, is because the bike was probably spec'd for standard (aka long) reach calipers not the short reach calipers that ended up on the bike; the short arms were more common. I had the same issue when I spec'd an Olmo frame. I originally bought a set of short reach brake calipers which worked on the front but were too short for the rear. I then bought a set of standard reach calipers and both fit (the front pads topped out at the top of the adjustment oval cut outs and the rear bottomed out at the bottom of the adjustment oval cut outs. Best case scenario would be to find a SR standard reach brake caliper; it doesn't matter front or rear or recessed or nutted (you have recessed) as you can switch the center brake bolt from the brake that you already have if needed. Enjoy!


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## BacDoc (Aug 1, 2011)

warrena said:


> BTW And I will post this elsewhere, what is the dela with the Campy adjustable dropouts? Should they be adjusted towards the front or the back to start?
> I can't imagine the advantage other than wheel alignment...but even then...
> 
> Thanks,
> ...


I have wondered about this too. I would think having the wheel snug up against the drop outs would be most secure, and those tiny bolts are a real pita when they seize or break-ask me how I know! With a restore I usually replace these and set them so the wheel is centered but way back in the dropout. Seems to work but never hear much about this adjustment.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

*Short vs. Normal vs. Long Reach*



onespeedbiker said:


> The reason the rear brakes are a little off, is because the bike was probably spec'd for standard (aka long) reach calipers not the short reach calipers that ended up on the bike; the short arms were more common. I had the same issue when I spec'd an Olmo frame. I originally bought a set of short reach brake calipers which worked on the front but were too short for the rear. I then bought a set of standard reach calipers and both fit (the front pads topped out at the top of the adjustment oval cut outs and the rear bottomed out at the bottom of the adjustment oval cut outs. Best case scenario would be to find a SR standard reach brake caliper; it doesn't matter front or rear or recessed or nutted (you have recessed) as you can switch the center brake bolt from the brake that you already have if needed. Enjoy!



Thanks!

My trouble has been finding calipers advertised as long, short or normal. I measured and it is 6cm from the center of the brake mount bolt to the center of the rim. As of now I have the brake pads adjusted all the way to the bottom and they are right on the edge of the rim and in fact wear over the edge if not precisely adjusted.

Are long reach long enough to center at 6 cm? I may have long reach already...

Thanks,

Warren


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

Warren, the standard length brakes had a 52mm reach for the front brakes and a 47mm reach for the rears.










Why don't you measure what you have? If they're the standard reach brakes, I think your only options are to use drop bolts or try to find long reach calipers.


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## warrena (Aug 5, 2012)

Scooper said:


> Warren, the standard length brakes had a 52mm reach for the front brakes and a 47mm reach for the rears.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Stan!

I made a rough estimate with the wheels on and they are definitely longer each than 47mm, so it appears I am maxed out on caliper adjustments.

I contacted the "water restoration" folks and they have them in stock so there is a solution!

Thanks for all the help!

Warren


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## Scooper (Mar 4, 2007)

FWIW, my '72 Paramount P15-9 uses Weinmann 610 (6.1cm) reach calipers on the front and 750 (7.5cm) reach calipers on the rear. My frame was designed to accommodate fenders, so there was extra clearance for them between the fork crown and tire on the front, and between the rear brake bridge and tire on the back.


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