# Questions from a wannabe Randonneur newb



## shredchic (May 26, 2010)

Total Rando-newb here, and after hearing the stories of some Randonneurs in my circle of riding buddies, and researching the websites, and having done some 100 mile mountain bike races, I want to give Randonneuring a try. I find that it is not as hard on the body to ride the road for great distances as on trails (with elevation gain being equal), and there is not enough open space to do 200+k’s on dirt without repeating loops endlessly, and I’m getting old.

Questions:
All of my bikes are currently mountain bikes. I do ride road on my hard tail, but it’s time I got a real road-worthy bike, but I have a lot of trails near where I live that provide safe passage to better roads. Wouldn’t a disc brake cx bike with big road tires be perfectly swell for Rando’s, or will I find after a year of progressing to longer brevets am I going to regret it and start “needing” one of those heavy looking steel fendered touring monstrosities? 

In the modern era of uber-bright lights that last > 10 hrs on a charge, and come with spare batteries, is it worth getting a dynohub for charging lights? (I just spent $500 on an Exposure Equinox with the support battery).

With so many cool Revelate frame bags and feed bag options, do I really need that basket thingy on my handlebars?

Must one be a complete luddite to be a randonneur? I mean, this is the GPS/Strava age, and I question the wisdom of buying junk at 7-11 and mailing in receipts to prove I’ve actually been places. Don’t get me wrong - getting recorded by some French organization with “Audax” in the name sounds weirdly fun and quirky. 

Thanks for reading! And even more thanks for attempting to answer.


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## dcgriz (Feb 13, 2011)

Anything on wheels can be used and has been used for Rando duty as is evident from the PBP attendance.
That's all I can tell you because that's all there is to it. The rest is your personal preference on what you like better. My personal preference is what you called "...one of those heavy looking steel fendered touring monstrosities..."


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

A disc brake cx bike with road tires would make an excellent rando bike. Just be sure the bike has fender eyelets should you choose to mount them, and 2 sets of waterbottle eyelets, as some cx bikes are "purist" models and lack bottle mounts.

Don't have an answer about the lights. 

A good sized seat bag and some jersey pockets should cover your needs. Handlebar bags are for quick access to frequently used items. You may find one handy, or an aerodynamic drag and a nuisance. For rando events, it doesn't need to be that large.

I like Dill Pickle Gear bags because they're designed by a rando veteran who knows what works and what doesn't.

That luddite thang the randonneurs got going on is like cosplay.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

dcgriz said:


> My personal preference is what you called "...one of those heavy looking steel fendered touring monstrosities..."


Ditto.

My ideal build would be a Gunnar Hyper-X or a Salsa Vaya with a dynamo headlight and hub setup. I'd use frame bags instead of rack/panniers. Disc brakes. Integrated shifters. Tire size would depend on course. Fenders optional. My current rando bike is a Trek 520.


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## shredchic (May 26, 2010)

Thanks for the responses, links and gear recommendations... The Dill Pickle bags look really nice. Now I have more of an understanding of the luddite vibe, lol, I can dig it! I regret using negative language (meant to be humorous) for describing people's lovingly hand-crafted steel bikes - although they seem decidedly anti-modern, they are quite beautiful. So much to learn about our wonderful and whacky hobby...


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

shredchic said:


> Thanks for the responses, links and gear recommendations... The Dill Pickle bags look really nice. Now I have more of an understanding of the luddite vibe, lol, I can dig it! I regret using negative language (meant to be humorous) for describing people's lovingly hand-crafted steel bikes - although they seem decidedly anti-modern, they are quite beautiful. So much to learn about our wonderful and whacky hobby...


It's not that my attitude is steel-only so much as the majority of steel bikes on the market meet my needs: long chain stays (clearance and comfort), long head tube ("endurance geometry"), relaxed steering angle (if toe overlap is a concern, although in fairness my choice of the hyper-x is rather aggressive), bottle cages, stability with a handlebar bag, brazeons and versatility. From an economic standpoint, I don't see any advantage in carbon over steel for an endurance race that would offset the price difference. Carbon (and aluminum) are great if you are going to sprint and want more a more responsive bike out of a stop... but that's not how you ride a rando event.

I don't have any reason to suggest against a multi-purpose cross bike, but, if you go that route be mindful of the geometry and find one with the "American style" of cross (relatively lower BB, relatively longer top tube) as it will feel more like a road bike. At some point I want to get a bike that I can use for spirited club rides but also for centuries and have multiple sets of wheels/tires, for this I've considered a Focus CX which is carbon or maybe a carbon "relaxed geo" road bike like a Trek Domane or Wilier GTR. For now, those bikes are out of my budget and I mostly shop used.


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## velodog (Sep 26, 2007)

How about a 650b low trail purpose built Randonneur bike.
Here's a coupla different price points to look at...

Velo Routier 650B Randonneur Bicycle | Cycles Toussaint

Grand Randonneur Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications

Boulder Bicycle Rando Overview and Prices


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## Peter P. (Dec 30, 2006)

Too bad I didn't have a time machine.

All the randonneurs would willingly jump in and go back to the glory days of randonneuring, all Rene Herse, French bikes, and whatnot, where they would feel all warm and fuzzy.

Then I could pull the plug and leave them stuck there. The roads would then be safer for the Strava chasers! ;-)


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## bbpr120 (Dec 3, 2009)

I've got a Surly Cross-check modified for disc brakes that I've logged multiple 200-300K randonneuring rides (along some self planned ones thrown in for good luck) over the last few years. Rides great and is pretty damn comfortable over the miles with minimal pain. 

As far as special gear goes- i use a small top tube bag for snacks, a "small" saddle bag from Rivendell Bikes (its freakin huge compared to most of the usual ones you see on the road) for all my tools, extra supplies like cables and tubes and food i don't need to get easy access to, fenders, a Garmin Edge 810 along with a 4000 mAh supplemental battery pack utilizing custom charging cable comprised of a right angle mini usb and standard micro usb cable for topping off my phone and gps. I also glued a spring clip to my stem to make reading the cue sheets a bit easier. My Edge has crashed a few times and having the cue sheet readily available makes completing the ride a whole easier. 

During the "formal events" I've ridden there is always a wide range of bikes, bags and other stuff deemed "essential" by riders. Pretty much anything goes as long it works, even fixed gear bikes (met the owner of Dill Pickle riding one during a long grinding climb in NH last May-she kicked my arse). If it works, use it. If it doesn't, replace it with something that does.

Can't help much with picking out lights, I haven't had the time available for anything longer than 300k yet.


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## grandsalmon (Jan 18, 2009)

'scribed

(always looking for tips and tricks, wisdom and experience detailed. Thanks)


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## Mr645 (Jun 14, 2013)

Any bike can work, but obviously a road bike with ample storage for the events your planning will make things easier. Here in Florida we have one rider who completed two SR series in one year on a full suspension mountain bike. Certainly it can be done.

I use a Fuji Altamira, not the most ideal geometry but I also ride shorter group rides so it's an all around bike for me. I added a top tub bag and a bracket that attached to the seat rails. Co2 goes on mounts between the bottle cages and frame, and a large bag behind the seat holds things and also clamps a spare tire and batteries for my lighting between the top of the bag and the seat. It's just about getting creative to find places to store everything you want to carry. The needs change with every distance. 200k is pretty much a century ride with another 90 minutes added. 300k adds lighting needs, and the nothings can tougher at the 400k mark since your now going without sleep and possible riding well into the night. 600k for me actually gets easier since I will plan a stop, some sleep, shower, fresh clothes etc. 1200k? I'll let you now in August


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## Social Climber (Jan 16, 2013)

grandsalmon said:


> 'scribed
> 
> (always looking for tips and tricks, wisdom and experience detailed. Thanks)


Ditto. I am also a wannabee. I've done several century rides and expect to do my first 200K sometime next spring. I'll try to work up to 300K after that. 400 and 600 seem too daunting at this point, though.


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

Social Climber said:


> Ditto. I am also a wannabee. I've done several century rides and expect to do my first 200K sometime next spring. I'll try to work up to 300K after that. 400 and 600 seem too daunting at this point, though.


The trick is to not stop... just keep riding.


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## shredchic (May 26, 2010)

Interesting bike recommendations. I had never heard of Focus before, I guess since I am not in Europe. But they look like sweet bikes. Thanks headloss for the helpful posts on what to look for. 

Then there are the 650b rando-specific bikes - (thanks velodog) - classy! 

Thanks mr645 & bbpr120 - nice to know that any bike will do! Good point about lighting needs... Right now, I have yet to complete a 200k.  I got lights mainly for trail riding at the moment. Perhaps I won't worry too much about dyno-hub.

Since there are some mixed terrain rides I'd like to do as well, I'd like one bike for both. I don't see myself doing any fast group road rides. Ibis cycles has been a long-time favorite of mine, and it's local. So I'm thinking Hakkalugi or similar. Does it look like a good choice if I also get a set of road wheels to easily switch?


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## ericm979 (Jun 26, 2005)

Cross wheels will work for road. You will want smooth road tires though as they roll better. Many competition oriented cross bikes come with narrow gearing ranges- in cross you run up anything steep and don't go very fast, so you don't need really low or high gears. But for long distance road riding you'll want low gearing for climbs and high, or higher than cx, for descents.

Look for a 50/34 compact crank. You can run 12-27 or 12-30 cassettes for low gearing

I think that a regular road bike is fine for at least 200 mile rides. I use my weight weenie carbon road race bike, with battery ligtts if needed. I can stuff 100 miles worth of food, and the clothes I need in my jersey pockets. Pick up more food when I pass the car or at the midpoint of organized rides where they'll schlep a bag out there.

If you're in California there's a ton of 100-200+ mile organized rides. Western States Ride Calendar


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## shredchic (May 26, 2010)

Yeah, absolutely - I just meant a spare set of wheels because I'm too lazy to keep changing tires. One set with dirt knobbies, and the other with with smooth road tires. (Cheaper than having 2 bikes, I guess). 

I'll definitely look for the widest gear ratio I can get. 50/34 with 30 or 32 in the back would be ideal. Lots of steep climbs in the coastal ranges in norcal.

Thanks for the link for the rides!


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## headloss (Mar 3, 2013)

shredchic said:


> I had never heard of Focus before, I guess since I am not in Europe. But they look like sweet bikes.
> 
> Since there are some mixed terrain rides I'd like to do as well, I'd like one bike for both. I don't see myself doing any fast group road rides. Ibis cycles has been a long-time favorite of mine, and it's local. So I'm thinking Hakkalugi or similar. Does it look like a good choice if I also get a set of road wheels to easily switch?


Focus was being sold at Performance for a while, but they ended that agreement. You occasionally see a nice buy when Jenson clearances one of their carbon road bikes. I won a Focus touring hybrid a few years ago in a raffle when Focus sent Ruthie Matthes out to promote the brand. I really liked the geo of their cross bikes a few years ago, although they've changed a bit a year or two ago and I haven't taken a newer one out for a test ride yet.

I think a Hakkalugi would work well for mixed use. 70mm bottom bracket drop would be ideal, I think. Tall head tube, relaxed headtube angle, middle of the road top tube length. Not sure how stiff/comfortable the tubing would be on a long ride but I doubt it's anything a wider tire wouldn't solve (if it's even a problem).


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