# Another post on Ergopost 2 seatpost troubles



## stevecaz (Feb 25, 2005)

(My search found one guy who only needed to sand the bottom to get in.)

I just got the red/Ti color Ergopost 2 in 27.2 which will finally allow my setback requirements. I was looking at the FSA K-force but when I saw the slick red Look post my mind was made up. I tried to insert it new from the package and no go. I took my clamp collar off completely to try it out. So as I read in the other post, I sanded the bottom inch or so with a good scuff and bare carbon just peaking out at the very edge. I was able to get it started and jam it in about as far as the scuffing, but only with some grease (not ideal), into the carbon seat tube of my Lemond (yes it is 27.2). I'm guessing the post starts out as 27.2 and then some wise marketing person decided to add a couple mil of paint to it , although you'd think the normal clearcoat would be this thick. Since I've scuffed it up I'm likely past the point of returning, plus I don't really want to return it. It has the great setback I need and looks great in the Red/Ti against my carbon/Ti spine frame with silver/red decals and red accents. So, unless there is some magical solution I think my option is to strip all the paint below the point of my personnal exposure. In this case I might even cut the post down a bit. 

Should I tape up the exposed part, and then sand down the paint to bare carbon, or use a chemical stripper (the quickest method)? I'm just not sure if a stripper can be used on carbon that is held together by epoxy. Coarse sandpaper might work well but be too rough once I start reaching the carbon, and the 150 grit stuff I used on the bottom would take forever to get the paint off. I'm sure if I had gotten the 585 frame instead of the Tete De Course the post would fit fine. 

Thanks


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## acid_rider (Nov 23, 2004)

*I feel your pain*



stevecaz said:


> (My search found one guy who only needed to sand the bottom to get in.)
> 
> I just got the red/Ti color Ergopost 2 in 27.2 which will finally allow my setback requirements. I was looking at the FSA K-force but when I saw the slick red Look post my mind was made up. I tried to insert it new from the package and no go. I took my clamp collar off completely to try it out. So as I read in the other post, I sanded the bottom inch or so with a good scuff and bare carbon just peaking out at the very edge. I was able to get it started and jam it in about as far as the scuffing, but only with some grease (not ideal), into the carbon seat tube of my Lemond (yes it is 27.2). I'm guessing the post starts out as 27.2 and then some wise marketing person decided to add a couple mil of paint to it , although you'd think the normal clearcoat would be this thick. Since I've scuffed it up I'm likely past the point of returning, plus I don't really want to return it. It has the great setback I need and looks great in the Red/Ti against my carbon/Ti spine frame with silver/red decals and red accents. So, unless there is some magical solution I think my option is to strip all the paint below the point of my personnal exposure. In this case I might even cut the post down a bit.
> 
> ...


I had similar problem with my FSA K-Force Carbon Lite seatpost (35mm set-back, 27.2mm, 350mm long) on my Madone - I could not insert it deep enough into seat tube because it is a bit thicker in its top section. So it ended up in my Time Edge (semi-compact) instead. 

Anyhow, the Madone solution was to use FSA alloy SL-220 seat-post, it has the same 35mm set-back as the FSA K-Force Carbon Lite, a lot cheaper to buy (50% less?), less worry about crushing it and being alloy it is completely straight so you can insert it further in, if need be. 

Furthermore, I can not detect any ride comfort differences between my FSA alloy post in Madone and FSA carbon post in Time. 

RE Look Ergopost 2 - the early models of Look posts with a lot of set-back (so I am reliably told by a well known guy in cycling trade) used to snap/break if you used the maximum set-back (bolt in 3rd position, far back?). I sincerely hope this problem has long been fixed but if you are on the heavy side you need to be aware of this.


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## stevecaz (Feb 25, 2005)

Those early models you speak of that snapped - was that the original Ergopost? (which did not have the greatest reputation) Thor Hushovd used the ergopost 2 on his 585 and I weigh a little more than him, but he used the middle position. 
I will be using the 3rd bolt position to have the rail more or less centered in the clamp. I might be able to use the middle hole but with the saddle all the way back on the rails like I do now with a Ritchey WCS carbon, which doesn't quite allow enough setback. I'll have to see if the middle hole setback is enough. 

Hmmm, good suggestion about the SL-220. At 250 grams for 350mm length, once I cut it down to around 270mm it would likely weigh less than the ergopost, and my Lemond already has enough ride comfort.


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## stevecaz (Feb 25, 2005)

*Its done*

After reading the bottle of paint stripper that advised not using on plastics of fiberglass, I went the sandpaper route. After much sanding and not much progress, I switched to the dremel with a sanding drum. That did it and quick. Not pretty looking below the exposed part with some bits of primer remaining but so what. The paint was a thick white primer, full red coat, and then the Ti/silver color on top of that on the posts backside. No wonder it didn't fit and I'm a little dissappointed at Look for this one for not starting with a 27.0 before adding paint. After sanding the post went in fine but for the last little bit I left untouched for a buffer. 

Anyhow, I found the middle hole offered lots of setback (must be around 35-37mm) and worked perfect for me. I also found the clamp head a little clunky and porky at 81.3 grams with the Ti bolt. Reminded me of an old SR Lapreade post head. Seems like a more elegant clamp for looks and weight could have been designed. OK, now I just need that red SLR I've been eyeing.


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