# Which BikesDirect bike...



## cjsiege (Dec 8, 2010)

under $400? I've read the sticky. I'm not interested in buying used, and bigger name brands cost too much for me. I know I need to budget for LBS assembly/setup and to buy gear. 

A bit about me: 

I'm mostly a runner (marathon is my furthest), looking to cross-train and add to my fitness skill set. When healthy (currently recovering from appendicitis, but getting better!) I try to run 15-20 miles/week when not training for a specific race. I'm under 25 and reasonably fit already. I'm looking for a bike that won't fall apart on me (a la wal-mart/target stuff), and I want the aero style bars and multiple gears. My eventual (2-3 years down the road) goal is to complete an Ironman-distance triathlon, and I'd like to still be using this bike, though I know things happen and repairs may need to be made. I'd like to use this bike for other races of varying distance in the interim.

I know there's a few choices in this range, what do you like best? :thumbsup:


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

Welcome to RBR. 

You did some research, provided some good background info and outlined your intended uses, but didn't mention if this is your first road bike. If so, and if you're going the online route, you'll need to pin down sizing requirements, because getting sizing/ fit right is _very_ important. 

IMO/E the best way to do that is to visit a reputable LBS, explain your intention to buy online and ask that the LBS provide a standard fitting. It should run $50~, but once it's completed you'll have a good idea of your fit requirements.

If the LBS doesn't provide stats on the fitting, note the year, make and model of the test bike. When you start your online search, use the geometry from the test bike to compare to the bikes of interest. The closer the numbers, the closer fit will be. 

Last question. How would you describe the terrain you'll be riding. Hilly? Flat? Somewhere in between?


----------



## cjsiege (Dec 8, 2010)

PJ352 said:


> Welcome to RBR.
> 
> You did some research, provided some good background info and outlined your intended uses, but didn't mention if this is your first road bike. If so, and if you're going the online route, you'll need to pin down sizing requirements, because getting sizing/ fit right is _very_ important.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply! This will be my first road bike. I rode bikes as a kid but haven't done much as an adult. 

I'll definitely check out a LBS to get fitted. There are several in the area (I live in a rather bike-friendly city) so it should be easy to find one I like.

The terrain here is probably a 5, on a scale of 0 is a pancake and 10 is Mount Everest. Pretty hilly, but not the hilliest ever.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

cjsiege said:


> Thanks for the reply! This will be my first road bike. I rode bikes as a kid but haven't done much as an adult.
> 
> I'll definitely check out a LBS to get fitted. There are several in the area (I live in a rather bike-friendly city) so it should be easy to find one I like.
> 
> The terrain here is probably a 5, on a scale of 0 is a pancake and 10 is Mount Everest. Pretty hilly, but not the hilliest ever.


Glad you're open to getting an LBS fitting. A good fit is more apt to keep you riding (relatively) pain free and efficiently, which is pretty important given your intended purposes. And you don't want to get sizing wrong when ordering online.

Given your price range and taking an admittedly quick look at the BD site, I think the Gravity Liberty 1 will suite your purposes. It has the advantage of having Micro Shifts, which are a little easier to operate than Sora's. I'd hold off on the aero bars for now. You can always add them (at a cost, of course), so I wouldn't let that alone dictate a bike choice.

http://bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/liberty_1.htm


----------



## frpax (Feb 13, 2010)

Don't you have to assemble BD bikes? Pretty sure you do, or have it done. There's extra expense there.

I'd go with your LBS for a first road bike.


----------



## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

BD bikes are INCREDIBLY easy to assemble. You can do it yourself with a couple allen wrenches. All the cables and housings are precut and ran, steer tube cut and everything laid right out for you. Complete non issue.. anyone can do it.


----------



## RJP Diver (Jul 2, 2010)

cjsiege said:


> My eventual (2-3 years down the road) goal is to complete an Ironman-distance triathlon, and I'd like to still be using this bike,


You may wish to modify your expectations in this regard.

 

The best way to save money in cycling is to buy your SECOND bike FIRST.


----------



## bikesdirect (Sep 9, 2006)

cjsiege said:


> Thanks for the reply! This will be my first road bike. I rode bikes as a kid but haven't done much as an adult.
> 
> *I'll definitely check out a LBS to get fitted. There are several in the area (I live in a rather bike-friendly city) so it should be easy to find one I like.*
> 
> The terrain here is probably a 5, on a scale of 0 is a pancake and 10 is Mount Everest. Pretty hilly, but not the hilliest ever.



All my shops fit customers to bikes for free
Most dealers I know do the same
In addition, if you email Chris at [email protected] - he would fit you via email and get the same results on a semi-compact road bike [like Dawes or Gravity] as any good shop would.

sizing you is not rocket-science and you should not have to pay for that


----------



## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

cjsiege said:


> under $400? I've read the sticky. I'm not interested in buying used, and bigger name brands cost too much for me. I know I need to budget for LBS assembly/setup and to buy gear.
> 
> A bit about me:
> 
> ...


If you're going to do an Ironman, there is no way I would ever consider doing it on a $400 bike. It isn't that all of the other bikes in the world are too expensive, it's that your budget is unrealistically low. Bikes are not toys, and therefore are not priced as such.

The cheapest bike you should consider for any serious triathlon is this one: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/nemesis_xi.htm

For general road riding, this bike is pretty sweet: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/mirage_pro_x.htm
Too bad a lot of the sizes are out of stock at the moment... that's a good looking bike.


----------



## bikesdirect (Sep 9, 2006)

PlatyPius said:


> If you're going to do an Ironman, there is no way I would ever consider doing it on a $400 bike. It isn't that all of the other bikes in the world are too expensive, it's that your budget is unrealistically low. Bikes are not toys, and therefore are not priced as such.
> 
> The cheapest bike you should consider for any serious triathlon is this one: https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/nemesis_xi.htm
> 
> ...



This is probably true
however there are some that do an ironman on a single speed and even on a BMX bike
I was shocked to see that at Kona

If OP is a runner he would probably start like my wife did with a short sprint tri
certainly could do that on a Liberty 1
and over course of a couple of years move to half IronMan [could still do that on a Liberty 1]

Then over course of a year or two more then move to a regional Ironman [by then he could move to a bike like a Nemesis for about $1000]

If he gets real serious and heads for more then he can move to a super bike that is about $10,000 -- as below -- but this is a process and a good place to start is an nice aluminum road bike with carbon fork

here is my favorite "IRONMAN"


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

bikesdirect said:


> sizing you is not rocket-science and you should not have to pay for that


No, but it's something that needs to be done right. 50 miles into a 100 mile ride isn't where you want to find out that your bike isn't set up correctly.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

bikesdirect said:


> All my shops fit customers to bikes for free
> Most dealers I know do the same
> In addition, if you email Chris at [email protected] - he would fit you via email and get the same results on a semi-compact road bike [like Dawes or Gravity] as any good shop would.
> 
> sizing you is not rocket-science and you should not have to pay for that


Mike and I have a long standing disagreement on anyone's ability to size _or_ fit a rider, sight unseen.

Besides the obvious benefit of the fitter seeing you on the bike and working one on one with you, you have the added benefit of test riding the bike to verify that fit is right. If a stem swap is required, it'll take the LBS all of 10 minutes to accomplish it, whereas an online 'dealer' will take (at minimum) days. All in all, well worth the nominal fee - assuming they even charge you.

Beyond that, there are a number of reasons to establish a relationship with a reputable shop. Final assembly, tune-ups, tweaks to initial fit are but a few, not to mention the advice/ assistance/ support that the better LBS's offer.

If your budget were higher I would have advised to buy through an LBS, but given your price range I see no problem going the online route _as long as you take care to get sizing right._


----------



## PlatyPius (Feb 1, 2009)

bikesdirect said:


> here is my favorite "IRONMAN"


SportyMama!


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Beyond that, there are a number of reasons to establish a relationship with a reputable shop. Final assembly, tune-ups, tweaks to initial fit are but a few, not to mention the advice/ assistance/ support that the better LBS's offer.


Barring a simply bad LBS, there are few reasons not to support your LBS. If you don't, they might not support you. I don't mean to diss online dealers, but unless you plan on doing all of your own wrenching, just support the LBS. I'm not lazy, but I'd just assume train, ride, and race as opposed to doing everything myself. 

Don't take this the wrong way, OP, but about every time I'm in the shop, there's someone who wants to do triathlons and doesn't want to spend any $. I mean no disrespect for the tri guys, but it has become a bucket list item these days. On that same token there are people who spend $10k on a fully decked out tri bike. However, as a bucket list item, if people compete, it's usually for a race or two before they hang it up for good.


----------



## cjsiege (Dec 8, 2010)

Thanks for the replies everyone!



> Don't you have to assemble BD bikes? Pretty sure you do, or have it done. There's extra expense there.
> 
> I'd go with your LBS for a first road bike.


Trouble is, LBS costs oh-so-much more for the bike. Even if I had to pay $100 for assembly and setup (which I'm wagering I will), that won't defray the price difference between $400 and $750 (MSRP of the Giant Defy and a comparable BD bike... guess which is which?) It's still a considerable difference.



> If you're going to do an Ironman, there is no way I would ever consider doing it on a $400 bike. It isn't that all of the other bikes in the world are too expensive, it's that your budget is unrealistically low. Bikes are not toys, and therefore are not priced as such.


Thanks, I understand. However, people complete Ironman-distance on far stranger things - fixed gears, mountain bikes, and (as Mike mentions) BMX bikes, for example. While I realize that better hardware may be needed in the end, as I said, this is a couple years down the line (I'm only 1/3 of the way there yet  ) so if and when I reach the point where I'm limited by my equipment, I'd make a move then. I see no reason to shell out for $1000+ hardware that will be for shorter races and training (granted, I'm no expert! )

---

I'm looking at the Dawes Lightning 1500 right now (http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt1500.htm). It's slightly more than my stated budget but seems to be the only ride in the price range I want with all the features I'm lookin' for. Thoughts?

I'm gonna a local shop today (my local REI - they are a great company and they have a lot of bike services) and see what's what, though I know I don't want to spend $700 for a Novara or name-brand with absolutely no features


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

At my last tri (actually more of an adventure race), I saw a couple people on hybrids, mountain bikes, fixies, etc. Pretty sure they were just at the race for the t-shirt. I'm hardly bragging, but the few who who started ahead of me looked like they were going backwards. 

The amount of $ spend or the lack thereof doesn't make a huge impact, but fit will eclipse it all.


----------



## mmcycle10 (Oct 7, 2010)

OP...Can you elaborate on why are you against "used" in this pricepoint? Combining the word "new" with a sub $500 budget defines the saying "you get what you pay for". I empathize with you on not wanting to break the bank at this stage in your triathlon "career", but IMO you are being too close minded to not even look for well priced used bike that will be lighter and have more reliable componentry...a clip on aero bar would be a cheap and easy addition to a used road bike.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

spade2you said:


> At my last tri (actually more of an adventure race), I saw a couple people on hybrids, mountain bikes, fixies, etc. Pretty sure they were just at the race for the t-shirt. I'm hardly bragging, but the few who who started ahead of me looked like they were going backwards.
> 
> The amount of $ spend or the lack thereof doesn't make a huge impact, but *fit will eclipse it all*.


Absolutely, and I think that's where the OP needs to focus a little more. 

The Dawes you linked to has a spread of 4cm's between sizes.* If *you were to hit it right (as in, the size offered met your requirements), then that bike would be a viable option, but that's a big IF. I suggest getting that LBS bike fit before shopping for a particular brand/ model.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

PJ352 said:


> Absolutely, and I think that's where the OP needs to focus a little more.


By far. Even though you can stand to gain a lot by a proper fit in terms of efficiency, I'll be the first to claim that the comfort alone is worth it. Fortunately, we don't have to pick just one or the other. When you start spending a lot of time training or riding, it becomes very critical to the overall process. I know I don't want to be sacrificing comfort or performance on the longer events. 

The initial investment may seem steep, but a good bike will last a long time. My first road bike was purchased sometime in '06 or '07, been through at least 2,000 outdoor miles per year, more than a dozen races, countless hours in the trainer or on the rollers, and has now signs of slowing down.


----------



## bikesdirect (Sep 9, 2006)

mmcycle10 said:


> OP...Can you elaborate on why are you against "used" in this pricepoint? Combining the word "new" with a sub $500 budget defines the saying "you get what you pay for". I empathize with you on not wanting to break the bank at this stage in your triathlon "career", but IMO you are being too close minded to not even look for well priced used bike that will be lighter and have more reliable componentry...a clip on aero bar would be a cheap and easy addition to a used road bike.



I am unsure about the OP
but I can give you about 5 solid reasons to not get a used bikes if the shopper is relatively new to the sport [and I could get you a dozen if I thought about it hard]

Used bikes are very risky for those that are not bike experts; especially if purchaed off craigslist


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

bikesdirect said:


> but I can give you about 5 solid reasons to not get a used bikes if the shopper is relatively new to the sport. Used bikes are very risky for those that are not bike experts; especially if purchaed off craigslist


I'm sure used bikes have the same risks of not fitting. However, the amount for frame or parts failure mostly has to do with how much it has been used. Although, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see if the bike is rusty or has been crashed. Heck, most bikes being sold used on CL was because they weren't being used.


----------



## mmcycle10 (Oct 7, 2010)

> Used bikes are very risky for those that are not bike experts; especially if purchaed off craigslist


What a joke! I sense a hint of bias coming from "bikesdirect"!! And yes, please enlighten me as to why a used bike becomes "especially" risky when purchased specifically from craigslist!


----------



## roscoe (Mar 9, 2010)

mmcycle10 said:


> What a joke! I sense a hint of bias coming from "bikesdirect"!! And yes, please enlighten me as to why a used bike becomes "especially" risky when purchased specifically from craigslist!


because everyone from craigslist only sells top quality stuff that's been properly maintained and is safe to ride...........


----------



## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

Id take a cheap new bike over a mid grade old bike.. aluminum has a limited fatigue life, as do chains, cables (im starting to think shifters fall under disposable too), chainrings, cassettes etc. the drivetrain parts on roadbikes are so expensive.. if you get a clunker off craigslist chances are you're going to start needing to pour money into it unless its a very new bike.


----------



## cjsiege (Dec 8, 2010)

TomH said:


> Id take a cheap new bike over a mid grade old bike.. aluminum has a limited fatigue life, as do chains, cables (im starting to think shifters fall under disposable too), chainrings, cassettes etc. the drivetrain parts on roadbikes are so expensive.. if you get a clunker off craigslist chances are you're going to start needing to pour money into it unless its a very new bike.


This is exactly my line of thinking. Things break down over time. Why spend that much money on an unknown quantity? A cheaper new bike can be returned or warrantied if there's a problem.


----------



## spade2you (May 12, 2009)

roscoe said:


> because everyone from craigslist only sells top quality stuff that's been properly maintained and is safe to ride...........


I'm hardly that mechanically inclined, but it's not that hard to spot the difference between a minimally used bike and one that's been chained to a grill in the rain/snow for a few years. 

Bottom line, beggars can't be choosers.


----------



## bikesdirect (Sep 9, 2006)

mmcycle10 said:


> What a joke! I sense a hint of bias coming from "bikesdirect"!! And yes, please enlighten me as to why a used bike becomes "especially" risky when purchased specifically from craigslist!



Due to the fact that you have little or no recourse if you find something wrong later [which often happens to used bike buyers that are not familiar with bikes]

If you buy on ebay or in a shop; you have a bit of recourse; especially with a used bike sold by a bike shop.

I hear horror stories on used bikes all the time; and some are rather sad. No one is doing any 'newbie' a favor to advise them to look for a deal on a used bike on craigslist IMHO


----------



## mmcycle10 (Oct 7, 2010)

> Due to the fact that you have little or no recourse if you find something wrong later [which often happens to used bike buyers that are not familiar with bikes]
> 
> If you buy on ebay or in a shop; you have a bit of recourse; especially with a used bike sold by a bike shop.
> 
> I hear horror stories on used bikes all the time; and some are rather sad. No one is doing any 'newbie' a favor to advise them to look for a deal on a used bike on craigslist IMHO


I'll give you the recourse argument...I don't disagree with that logic. But there are deals on well maintained used bikes out there. Just like someone else posted, there are a number of people who sell their bike because it never gets used. Nothing against BikesDirect...I was just trying to broaden the OP's options for his relatively low budget.


----------



## mmcycle10 (Oct 7, 2010)

> A cheaper new bike can be returned or warrantied if there's a problem.


This is true. But who is encouraging you to go buy an old worn out "clunker"??? How about a well maintained 2 year old bike with Shimano 105 components? You don't need a warranty for Shimano 105...it's quality stuff that is built to last. That's all I'm saying. Anyone who tells you buying a bike on Craiglist is a terrible idea is just plain wrong. There are deals out there. I rode my Trek 1.2 for 3 months and wanted to upgrade. I sold my very well maintained bike to a guy for half of what I originally paid for it (90 days prior).

Looking back at the title of your post, you have made up your mind as to the source of buying your bike. So enjoy whatever you get and good luck with the triathlons!


----------



## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

mmcycle10 said:


> I'll give you the recourse argument...I don't disagree with that logic. But there are deals on well maintained used bikes out there. Just like someone else posted, there are a number of people who sell their bike because it never gets used. Nothing against BikesDirect...I was just trying to broaden the OP's options for his relatively low budget.


I'm in mmcycle's corner on this one. I've had friends buy used bikes from this site. Everytime, they appeared like they had hardly been used. Even with moderate use, high end components last longer than the low end stuff. Even chains and brake pads last thousands of miles -- more than a lot of folks ride their bike in it's lifetime. Cables last longer than that. I'd take a used Ultegra equipped bike over a new one whose highlight is a 105 rear derailer. 

That said, $400 is a painfully low budget to get anything decent. I spent a lot more for my first "real" road bike, and that was 25 years ago.


----------



## PJ352 (Dec 5, 2007)

mmcycle10 said:


> This is true. But who is encouraging you to go buy an old worn out "clunker"??? How about a well maintained 2 year old bike with Shimano 105 components? You don't need a warranty for Shimano 105...it's quality stuff that is built to last. That's all I'm saying. Anyone who tells you buying a bike on Craiglist is a terrible idea is just plain wrong. There are deals out there. I rode my Trek 1.2 for 3 months and wanted to upgrade. I sold my very well maintained bike to a guy for half of what I originally paid for it (90 days prior).
> 
> Looking back at the title of your post, you have made up your mind as to the source of buying your bike. So enjoy whatever you get and good luck with the triathlons!


A couple of thoughts...

I fall somewhere in the middle of the used bike arguments (seeing both advantages and disadvantages) and the OP has made it clear he isn't interested in one (and that's certainly his prerogative).

That said, in the interest of balance for other noobs who may be reading this thread, I think some of your statements show a bias (possibly based on your own experiences) and miss some important points.

Saying that a buyer doesn't need a warranty because he's buying a well maintained bike or 105 stuff that's 'built to last' misses the point of a warranty. In the event of a defect, the used bike buyer would be on his own for repairs whether they be for a frame, fork or component. Also, there are many issues that aren't readily apparent when looking over used bikes - frame alignment being one, but there are several others. 

While I agree that an experienced cyclist can do pretty well in the used bike arena, there is an element of risk that can't be denied. By taking some precautions there are ways to minimize those risks, but buying new (while costing more) all but alleviates them and provides a number of value added services important to noobs, like sizing/ fit assistance. 

Buyers have to weight each side and decide for themselves.


----------



## pmf (Feb 23, 2004)

How many folks here have tried to make use of a warranty on a bike? Better yet, how many people have successfully warrantied a bike? My guess is that warranties on bikes are about as useful as the "free lifetime tuneups" that bike shops offer. Hell people buy used automobiles without warranties all the time. The downside there is a bit steeper. 

And there may be no recourse for buying on CL, you do meet the seller face to face and get a chance to look at, if not ride the bike. 

This is all academic anyway since the OP wants a new bike. What he's going to get new for $400 will be interesting.


----------



## TomH (Oct 6, 2008)

mmcycle10 said:


> This is true. But who is encouraging you to go buy an old worn out "clunker"??? How about a well maintained 2 year old bike with Shimano 105 components? You don't need a warranty for Shimano 105...it's quality stuff that is built to last.


How about the 1 year old well maintained 105 shifters I just sold used? They were 100% perfect when I shipped them.. guy used them for a week before they broke! Luckily they were still within warranty (I was ready to buy the guy a new shifter). Apparently this isnt that uncommon either, shops are warrantying tons of them. A new shifter set will set you back 200-300 bucks.

After a new set of shifters, that good deal doesnt look so good anymore.


----------



## easyridernyc (Jan 10, 2008)

cjsiege said:


> Thanks for the replies everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



105 for six bucks. that's a pretty good deal, i seen this one dude on a dawes, and he humps it pretty good. pound for pound, good deal


----------



## cjsiege (Dec 8, 2010)

Went to REI today. Was feeling a bit under the weather so I didn't stick around and do sizing today (another time!) but they charge $50 to assemble and tune a new bike. Not as bad as I'd expected


----------

