# About to install the C-Bear! Couple quick questions



## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Okay, so my C-Bear bottom bracket has arrived, and I am going to install it on my Carbon Shelled S-Works Tarmac tonight.

I have a Park Tools press that I will use to press it in, and I have a Campy bearing puller to get the old cups/bearings off the crank, and to get the new ones on. I have the proper wrench to tighten the new italian threaded BB cups down.

I have an understanding of what needs to be done. I have pulled my crank out before, but I have never removed/replaced the BEARINGS. This will be a first for me. My questions pertain to that. Do I need to grease them with anything prior to putting them on? If so, what should I use? Also, do I need to be careful as I "whack" the new bearings on to the crank? I don't know how tight of a fit they are, but this makes me nervous! I'm afraid that I will either A) crush the bearing, or B) damage the side of the crank that is against the table.

Is there anything else I need to know or should watch out for?

Thanks in advance for the help. I am planning to shoot video of the installation, to hopefully clear up some of the confusion around this product, it's installation, etc...

Dan


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

This UT right? If you have the Park Puller it should have come with the installer thingie too. You have that?

It pushes on the inner race.

Use a cloth under the crank.

Clean & light oil on the spindle.

Make sure the rubber dust cover thingie is out of the way of the shoulder on the crank that the bearing sits on.

Make sure the bearing spins freely after install.

It's not hard.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

bikerjulio said:


> This UT right? If you have the Park Puller it should have come with the installer thingie too. You have that?
> 
> It pushes on the inner race.
> 
> ...


Thanks Biker Julio. Yes, this is an Ultra Torque, SR11 crank. I have the Park Tool CBP-3, and it came with the "installer thingie". What oil should I use on the spindle? I'm getting ready to go to the bike shop now and want to make sure I grab the right stuff.

When you say "Make sure the rubber dust cover thingie is out of the way of the shoulder on the crank that the bearing sits on", is this something I should expect to find on the bearing? On the crank? There are bearings on the crank now that I will be removing.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

any lubricant will do. I'm just saying it shouldn't be dry.

if you look at RE 112 its the bearing and dust cover

http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/2012_COMPONENTS_SPARES-PART_A-03-12.pdf

If you don't have a new one then reuse the old one.

The cover just rests on the top of the shoulder on the crank. when you remove the bearing it will become obvious. If you install the bearing and find that it's binding (as I did) then it may be that you have a bit of the seal trapped.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

bikerjulio said:


> any lubricant will do. I'm just saying it shouldn't be dry.
> 
> if you look at RE 112 its the bearing and dust cover
> 
> ...


Sounds good. THanks for the link, very helpful. I will just leave the old one in place on the crank, and make sure it's seated well before getting the new bearing completely in to place.

Thanks!


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## vaetuning (Oct 1, 2009)

*New Bearings on SR11 cranks??*



Cyclin Dan said:


> Sounds good. THanks for the link, very helpful. I will just leave the old one in place on the crank, and make sure it's seated well before getting the new bearing completely in to place.
> 
> Thanks!


Hello Cyclin Dan

Why oh why, would you ever consider putting on other bearings on your SR11 crank - the bearings which are installed from Campy, are some of the best ceramic bearings in the world!!

Do not replace them, unless they are destroyed - and that does take some effort!!

The bearings should fit right into the Ital cups - no need for changing them!!

With respect

Mads


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

vaetuning said:


> Hello Cyclin Dan
> 
> Why oh why, would you ever consider putting on other bearings on your SR11 crank - the bearings which are installed from Campy, are some of the best ceramic bearings in the world!!
> 
> ...


good point. i was too focused on the details to ask the same question.

Dan - why are you doing this? bearings shot? if not then leave them alone.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

vaetuning said:


> Hello Cyclin Dan
> 
> Why oh why, would you ever consider putting on other bearings on your SR11 crank - the bearings which are installed from Campy, are some of the best ceramic bearings in the world!!
> 
> ...


Mads, I replaced them for two reasons. One, the BB was making a considerable amount of noise before. When I looked at the bearings, it seemed as if they were wearing unevenly as a result of the crank rocking back and forth in the bottom bracket. Two, the C-Bear came with new bearings so I figured why not use them? 

Also, it seemed as of the "cover" on the old bearings came off when I removed the crank. There was a paper looking shield (or something) that stayed with the cup, and I could see inside the Campy bearings. 

Are the new bearings from C-Bear inferior? I'm going to head out and ride in a few minutes, I'm excited to see how it goes. I wish I was doing a hard ride, but I'm doing a 210 mile ride on Saturday so I've begun my taper. The good news is, if I determine I should get new Campy bearings they aren't too have to install!


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

I kept the Campy bearings...should I put them back on?


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## vaetuning (Oct 1, 2009)

*C-Bear bearings*



Cyclin Dan said:


> Mads, I replaced them for two reasons. One, the BB was making a considerable amount of noise before. When I looked at the bearings, it seemed as if they were wearing unevenly as a result of the crank rocking back and forth in the bottom bracket. Two, the C-Bear came with new bearings so I figured why not use them?
> 
> Also, it seemed as of the "cover" on the old bearings came off when I removed the crank. There was a paper looking shield (or something) that stayed with the cup, and I could see inside the Campy bearings.
> 
> Are the new bearings from C-Bear inferior? I'm going to head out and ride in a few minutes, I'm excited to see how it goes. I wish I was doing a hard ride, but I'm doing a 210 mile ride on Saturday so I've begun my taper. The good news is, if I determine I should get new Campy bearings they aren't too have to install!


NO - the C-Bear bearings are also some of the finest bearings in the world - I was just wondering why you changed them - have a nice ride - you'll be impressed with the new found stiffness in your bikes BB area!!

With respect

Mads


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## vaetuning (Oct 1, 2009)

*Campy bearings*



Cyclin Dan said:


> I kept the Campy bearings...should I put them back on?


No, no no!! 

You should put them in an envelope and send them to me!!

No, actually I believe the bearings from C-Bear will do just fine!!

With respect

Mads


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

Another cycling Dan here. I'm jealous - did my C-Bear install, but didn't get to use the included ceramic bearings. Even the best roadie-oriented LBS in my area didn't have tools to pull the stock bearings from my cranks. 

Now I'm trying to wear the stock bearings out ASAP so I can find another shop to install the ceramics


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Sablotny said:


> Another cycling Dan here. I'm jealous - did my C-Bear install, but didn't get to use the included ceramic bearings. Even the best roadie-oriented LBS in my area didn't have tools to pull the stock bearings from my cranks.
> 
> Now I'm trying to wear the stock bearings out ASAP so I can find another shop to install the ceramics


I had my LBS order the part in for me...it's from Park Tool and the part number is CBP-3. It was $55, which is probably less than what my bike shop would have charged to put it in.

You can order the part online from Amazon.com.


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

dumb question:

how do you guys remove the circlip on the drive side crank ?

I tried and have not found the right way to do it. 

Special Tool ?,


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Salsa_Lover said:


> dumb question:
> 
> how do you guys remove the circlip on the drive side crank ?
> 
> ...


Not a dumb question at all, it's a very good one. One I want to know the answer to as well. I did it, but I'm confident it wasn't the best way...took me about 20 minutes. I held a flathead screwdriver against one side of the opening while I hooked the other side with the c-clip. Once I had one side up, I held the c-clip in place underneath of it to keep it from falling back down (which happened about 20 times while I was just using the screwdriver) while I slid the screwdriver around under the circlip, pushing it up as I went. There has to be a better way than what I did.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

needle nose pliers.

turn crank to appropriate position and reach in from the side

no sweat.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

bikerjulio said:


> needle nose pliers.
> 
> turn crank to appropriate position and reach in from the side
> 
> no sweat.


I'm talking about the clip that is on the spindle, that holds the bearing on. It's about a 95% complete circle, sitting in a tight groove on the drive side spindle.

I'm not talking about the C-Clip that clips to the outside of the bearing cup.


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## bikerjulio (Jan 19, 2010)

Cyclin Dan said:


> I'm talking about the clip that is on the spindle, that holds the bearing on. It's about a 95% complete circle, sitting in a tight groove on the drive side spindle.
> 
> I'm not talking about the C-Clip that clips to the outside of the bearing cup.


Sorry. I don't remember having a problem with that. Will go look at one.

Now I remember - you need a split ring plier, step 1 in the video here


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## Salsa_Lover (Jul 6, 2008)

Special tool it is indeed !

After a good swearing session I could not yet remove it , will look for those pliers


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

So, I rode the c-bear again today for a short ride. I have a 205 mile ride on Saturday, so I'm in full taper mode. I have a question though. On the drive side, which is the side I pressed the sleeve in from, there is still about a .5mm or 1mm gap between the bigger lip on the c-bear and the bike. I figured when I tightened the non drive side cup down, it would pull the c-bear over, but it did not. I even applied as much as 80nm of torque on the non drive side cup, and it still wasn't moving it. So, I backed the cup out, torqued to the specificed 35nm and moved on.

Everything seems fine, but that gap is still there. Is this normal?


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

Dan, check out my post on the Specialized forum, I did the same thing.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/specialized/c-bear-osbb-campy-adapter-install-281423.html

The sleeve needs clearance to go *beyond* the non-drive side flange.  I gave mine a couple whacks with a rubber mallet to finish it off, and it seated properly. 

FWIW, I've got two months of hammering on my Tarmac SL3 now, and the C-Bear is stiff, solid and silent. I was sweating bullets during the install, but its performed perfectly so far.


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Sablotny said:


> Dan, check out my post on the Specialized forum, I did the same thing.
> 
> http://forums.roadbikereview.com/specialized/c-bear-osbb-campy-adapter-install-281423.html
> 
> ...


So is there no gap on the drive side on yours now? I wonder if I should be concerned about this?


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## Sablotny (Aug 15, 2002)

_*If*_ this is the same thing as happened to me, I'll try to explain it another way. You put a 3" long tube on a table, and then slide a 3-1/2" dowel inside. The dowel hits the table, and so 1/2" is still sticking out the top. The dowel can't slide down flush with the top of the tube unless the table goes away.

Similarly, when I pressed in my C-Bear adapter, I had a thick steel washer on the non-drive side of the carbon BB shell, preventing the C-Bear from sliding through and setting flush on the drive side. The C-Bear needs to stick out of the non-drive side - it is wider than the BB shell. If you take a look at the aluminum cover plate that comes with it, you'll notice that its convex. It covers up this protrusion, which is only a couple mm's.

PS - C-Bear was going to post instructions on their web site, you so should probably toss everything I just wrote and check that out. Or e-mail the C-Bear rep who posted on my thread.


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## vaetuning (Oct 1, 2009)

*Gap with C-bear sleeve install*



Cyclin Dan said:


> So, I rode the c-bear again today for a short ride. I have a 205 mile ride on Saturday, so I'm in full taper mode. I have a question though. On the drive side, which is the side I pressed the sleeve in from, there is still about a .5mm or 1mm gap between the bigger lip on the c-bear and the bike. I figured when I tightened the non drive side cup down, it would pull the c-bear over, but it did not. I even applied as much as 80nm of torque on the non drive side cup, and it still wasn't moving it. So, I backed the cup out, torqued to the specificed 35nm and moved on.
> 
> Everything seems fine, but that gap is still there. Is this normal?


Hello Cyclin Dan

No, that is not normal - the sleeve´s gap has to be on the non drive side, as to make the chainrings line up with the cassette, as intended by the manufacturer.

As I posted earlier, you need a tube that is a little wider in diameter than the non drive side of the sleeve!

The tube should have some kind of soft lining at the end (as to NOT damage the laquer of the frame), the tube should be placed over the OSBB on the non drive side, and the sleeve should then be pulled all the way through the OSBB, until the collar of the sleeve sits flush with the frame on the drive side.

With respect

Mads


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## Cyclin Dan (Sep 24, 2011)

Well, I pulled the crank off this morning and pounded in the drive side of the C-Bear with a rubber mallet. After about 6-7 solid whacks, it seated up against the BB nice and tight. 

Taking a rubber mallet and slamming the side of your uber expensive bike is nerve racking, but it worked out great. I'm excited to feel the stiffness on my double century tomorrow.


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